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+Project Gutenberg's English Pictures, by Samuel Manning and S. G. Green
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: English Pictures
+
+Author: Samuel Manning
+        S. G. Green
+
+Release Date: March 7, 2014 [EBook #45065]
+
+Language: English
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ENGLISH PICTURES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger from page images generously
+provided by The Internet Archive
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ENGLISH PICTURES
+
+By The Rev. Samuel Manning, LL.D., and The Rev. S. G. Green, D.D.
+
+1889
+
+[Illustration: 0006]
+
+[Illustration: 0007]
+
+[Illustration: 0009]
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE:
+
+A British nobleman--so runs the story--when travelling in Switzerland
+was so impressed by the gloomy grandeur of one of the mountain passes,
+that he exclaimed, "Surely there is no other view like this in the world!"
+
+"I am told, my lord," said the guide, "that there is but one,"--naming a
+view in the Scottish I lighlands.
+
+"Why," replied the nobleman, "that is on my own estate, and I have never
+seen it!"
+
+The anecdote may be doubtful historically, but in idea it is true. _Non
+é vero, ma ben trovato_.
+
+The number of Englishmen who really know their own country is
+comparatively few; and no doubt there are motives quite independent
+of the love for natural beauty, which lead the hard-worked men of our
+generation to escape at intervals to as great a distance as possible
+from the scene of their daily occupations. The effort for this, however,
+often leads to yet more harassing distractions; and many return from the
+eager excitements of foreign travel more jaded and careworn than when
+they began their journey. Nor is it so easy to escape after all! The
+great event of the day at every Continental hotel is the arrival of _The
+Times_; and you are at least as likely to meet your next neighbour on
+a Rhine steamboat or at the Rigi Kulm, as in the valley of the Upper
+Thames, or at Boscastle or Tintagel.
+
+It is true that our rivers do not flow from glaciers, and our proudest
+mountain heights may easily be scaled in an afternoon; we have no gloomy
+grandeur of pine forests or stupendous background of snowy peaks; but
+there is beauty, and sublimity too, for those who know "how to observe"
+the earth, and sea, and sky: and in less than a day's journey, the tired
+dweller in cities may find many a sequestered retreat, where pure air
+and lovely scenery will bring to his spirit a refreshment all the
+more welcome because associated with the language, the habits, and the
+religion of his own home.
+
+The volume now in the reader's hand is intended to recall, by the aid of
+pen and pencil, some English scenes in which such refreshing influences
+have in the past been enjoyed. And, as every wanderer over English
+ground finds himself in the footsteps of the great and good, ample use
+has been made of the biographical and literary associations which these
+scenes continually recall.
+
+[Illustration: 0010]
+
+[Illustration: 0013]
+
+[Illustration: 0014]
+
+
+
+
+THE RIVER THAMES
+
+[Illustration: 0016]
+
+[Illustration: 0017]
+
+|THE Thames, unrivalled among English rivers in beauty as in fame, is
+really little known by Englishmen. Of the millions who line its banks,
+few have any acquaintance with its higher streams, or know them further
+than by occasional glances through rail way-carriage windows, at
+Maidenhead, Reading, Pangbourne, or between Abingdon and Oxford.
+Multitudes, even, who love the Oxford waters, and are familiar with
+every turn of the banks between Folly Bridge and Nuneham, have never
+thought to explore the scenes of surpassing beauty where the river flows
+on, almost in loneliness, in its descent to London; visited by few,
+save by those happy travellers, who, with boat and tent, pleasant
+companionship, and well-chosen books--Izaak Walton's _Angler_ among the
+rest--pass leisurely from reach to reach of the silver stream. Then,
+higher up than Oxford, who knows the Thames? Who can even tell where it
+arises, and through what district it flows?
+
+There is a vague belief in many minds, fostered by some ancient manuals
+of geography, that the Thames is originally the Isis, so called until
+it receives the river _Thame_, the auspicious union being denoted by the
+pluralising of the latter word. The whole account is pure invention. No
+doubt the great river does receive the Thame or Tame, near Wallingford;
+but a Tame is also tributary to the Trent; and there is a Teme among
+the affluents of the Severn. The truth appears to be that Teme, Tame,
+or Thame, is an old Keltic word meaning "smooth," or "broad;" and that
+Tamesis, of which Thames is merely a contraction, is formed by the
+addition to this root of the old "Es," water, so familiar to us in
+"Ouse," * "Esk," "Uiske," "Exe," so that Tam-es means simply the "broad
+water," and is Latinised into Tamesis. The last two syllables again of
+this word are fancifully changed into Isis, which is thus taken as a
+poetic appellation of the river. In point of fact, Isis is used only by
+the poets, or by those who affect poetic diction. Thus, Warton, in his
+address to Oxford:
+
+     "Lo, your loved Isis, from the bordering vale,
+     With all a mother's fondness bids you hail."
+
+The name, then, of the Thames is singular, not plural; while yet the
+river is formed of many confluent streams descending from the Cotswold
+Hills. Which is the actual source is perhaps a question of words; and
+yet it is one as keenly contended, and by as many competing localities,
+as the birthplace of Homer was of old. Of the seven, however, only two
+can show a plausible case. The traditional Thames Head is in Trewsbury
+Mead, three miles from Cirencester, not far from the Tetbury Road
+Station, on the Great Western Railway, and hard by the old Roman road of
+Akeman Street, one of the four ** that radiate from Cirencester, or, as
+the Romans called the city, Corinium. Here the infant stream is at once
+pressed into service, its waters being pumped up into the Thames and
+Severn Canal, whose high embankment forms the back-ground to the wooded
+nook which forms the cradle of the river. It is an impressive comment
+on the reported saying of Brindley the engineer, that "the great use of
+rivers is to feed canals." Half-a-mile farther down, and when clear
+of the great pumping-engine, the baby river issues again to light in a
+secluded dell, and now has room to wander at its own sweet will. The cut
+on the preceding page delineates its early course, and shows "the Hoar
+Stone," an ancient boundary, mentioned in a charter of King Æthelstan,
+a.d. 931.
+
+The river now receives a succession of tiny rivulets, which augment its
+volume and force until, near the village of Kemble, it is crossed by a
+rustic bridge,--"the first bridge over the Thames," as depicted for us
+in the charming volume of Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall, with its three narrow
+arches, and its sides undefended by a parapet, with the solitary figures
+of the labourer and his boy, wending their way home after work.
+
+     * "The Ouse, whom men do Isis rightly name."--Spenser,
+     Faerie Queen.
+
+     ** The other three were the Fossway, or "entrenched road,"
+     running to the north-east, the Ikenild Street or "road to
+     the Iceni," nearly due east, and Ermine or Irmin Street,
+     passing through Cirencester, north-west to Gloucester, and
+     south-east to Silchester. Akeman Street is a continuance of
+     the Fossway, and runs south-west to Bath. Its name probably
+     means, "Oak-man," or Forester.
+
+[Illustration: 8019]
+
+What a contrast with the _last_ bridge that spans the river, with its
+mighty sweep of traffic below and above!
+
+But we must dally yet among scenes of rural quietude. A few miles beyond
+Kemble, the Thames has acquired force sufficient to turn a mill. Hence,
+leaving the highway, and taking our path through pleasant meadows,
+we pass by one or two rural villages, and so to Cricklade, the first
+market-town on the Thames. And here a considerable affluent joins the
+stream--a river, in fact, that has come down from another part of the
+Cotswold Hills, with some show of right to be the original stream.
+
+[Illustration: 8018]
+
+This is the Churn (or Corin; Keltic "The Summit"), which rises at "the
+Seven Springs," in a rocky hill-side, about three miles from Cheltenham,
+and runs by Cirencester (Corin-cester) down to Cricklade. I he claim of
+the Churn is the twofold one, of greater height in its source than the
+traditional meadows and beside quiet villages: much, to say the truth,
+like other rivers, or distinguished only by the transparency of its
+gentle stream. For, issuing from a broad surface of oolite rock, it has
+brought no mountain débris or dull clay to sully its brightness, no town
+defilement, nor trace of higher rapids, in turbid waves and hurrying
+foam. It lingers amid quiet beauties, scarcely veiling from sight the
+rich herbarium which it fosters in its bed, save where the shadows of
+trees reflected in the calm water mingle confusedly with the forms of
+aquatic plants. Meanwhile other streams swell the current. As an unknown
+poet somewhat loftily sings:
+
+     "From various springs divided waters glide,
+     In different colours roll a different tide;
+     Murmur along their crooked banks awhile:--
+     At once they murmur, and enrich the isle,
+     Awhile distinct, through many channels run,
+     But meet at last, and sweetly flow in one;
+     There joy to lose their long distinguished names,
+     And make one glorious and immortal Thames."
+
+Of the little streams thus loftily described, the most important are the
+Coln and the Leche; as Drayton has it in his _Polyolbion_:
+
+     "Clere Coin and lovely Leche, so dun from Cotswold's plain."
+
+[Illustration: 9020]
+
+The confluence of these streams with the Thames at Lechlade makes the
+river navigable for barges; and from this point it sets up a towingpath.
+At this point also end may be seen--a distant glimmering circle--from
+the other. Then the canal pursues a level course for some miles, and
+descends about 130 feet to the Thames at Lechlade, having traversed in
+all a distance of rather more than thirty miles.
+
+Below Lechlade the river passes into almost perfect solitude. Few walks
+in England of the same distance are at once so quietly interesting
+and so utterly lonely as the walk along the grassy towing-path of the
+Thames. A constant water-traffic was once maintained between London and
+Bristol by way of Lechlade and the canal; but this is now superseded by
+the railway, and the sight of a passing barge is rare.
+
+[Illustration: 0021]
+
+The river after leaving Gloucestershire divides, in many a winding, the
+counties of Oxford and Berks. The hills of the latter county, with their
+wood-crowned summits, pleasantly bound the view to the south; Farringdon
+Hill being for a long distance conspicuous among them. Half-way between
+Lechlade and Oxford is the hamlet of Siford, or Shifford--one of the
+great historic spots of England, if rightly considered, although now
+isolated and unknown. For there, as an ancient chronicler commemorates,
+King Alfred the Great held Parliament a thousand years ago.
+
+     "There sat at Siford many thanes and many bishops,
+     Learned men, proud earls and awful knights,
+     There was Karl Ælfric, learned in the law,
+     And Ælfred, England's herdsman, England's darling,
+     He was King in England.
+     He began to teach them how they should live."
+
+Not far off is New Bridge, the oldest probably on the Thames. But it was
+"new" six hundred years ago. Its solid construction shows that it was
+once a great highway; while its buttresses, pointed up the stream,
+betoken the power of the floods which the careful draining of later days
+has done so much to moderate.
+
+A short distance farther, the Windrush flows down from the north, by
+Bourton-"on-the-water," Burford and Witney, to unite with the broadening
+river; then the Evenlode, which the traveller by the Oxford, Worcester,
+and Wolverhampton Railway so often crosses and recrosses in his journey.
+
+Throughout, the river is carefully adapted for the purposes of a
+navigation now little needed. The occasional locks and the frequent
+weirs break the level, and the latter especially--sometimes miniature
+rapids or waterfalls--add picturesqueness to the scene. An expert
+oarsman may descend them all with safety; but many prefer to lift the
+boat on to the bank and drag it down to the lower level. These are
+interruptions to the journey, which, on the whole, is very enjoyable.
+Should the tourist have time at command, he may diverge to the right
+hand or to the left, to scenes of rich beauty or historic interest.
+Cumnor Hall, a name familiar to all readers of Sir Walter Scott from the
+tragic fate of Amy Robsart, lies a little way to the right of Bablock
+Hythe Ferry; Stanton Harcourt a short distance to the left. At the
+latter place Alexander Pope once resided, in a tower of the old mansion,
+which time or reverence has spared, in the ruin of almost all the rest.
+A pane of glass, in one of the tower windows, bore an inscription from
+the poet's own hand. "In the year 1718, Alexander Pope finished here the
+Fifth Volume of Homer." The pane is now at Nuneham Courtney, the mansion
+of the Harcourts. At Bablock Hythe Ferry the traveller is scarcely four
+miles from Oxford by the direct road; but if he keep to his boat, which
+he will not regret, he will find the distance fully twelve. The detour
+leads him first past the lovely wooded slopes and glades of Wytham
+Abbey, then to the scanty ruins of Godstow Nunnery, with its memories of
+Fair Rosamond. But we must not linger now, though opposite to the ruins
+a charming country hostelry offers its attractions, and the trout are
+leaping in the stream; for we are on our way to Oxford.
+
+The impression which the first sight of this fair and ancient city makes
+upon the stranger is probably unique, in whatever direction he first
+approaches it, and from whatever point he first descries its spires and
+towers. True, of late years the accessories of the railway invasion, so
+long resisted by the University authorities, have given a new aspect
+to the scene; but nothing can quite destroy the stately dignity
+and venerable calm. The traveller who approaches by the way we are
+describing, receives the full impression. As he floats along the quiet
+surface of the river, the stately domes and towers come suddenly in
+sight, and the green railway embankment in the foreground scarcely
+impairs the antique beauty of the picture.
+
+Oxford is probably Ousenford--the ford over the Ouse or "Water." Its
+waters indeed are many, and almost labyrinthine; but we get clear of
+the river at Hythe Bridge, and care for awhile only to explore Colleges,
+Halls, and Libraries; pausing before the Martyrs' Memorial, to breathe
+the hope that "the candle" once lighted there may still brightly burn,
+while Keble College, farther on, is a memorial of one, who though of
+another school of thought from ourselves, has given musical and touching
+expressions tu the deepest thoughts of devout hearts.
+
+[Illustration: 0023]
+
+But to describe this wonderful city is beyond our present scope. Let us
+hurry down to Christ Church Meadows, where the Cherwell sweeps round to
+join the Thames; then across to the Broad Walk, past Merton Meadow and
+the Botanical Gardens, to Magdalen Bridge, where a splendid view of the
+city is again obtained; thence up High Street to the centre of the city,
+and down St. Aldate's Street to Folly Bridge, where boats of all sizes
+are in waiting. This bridge may appear strangely named, as a main
+approach to the renowned seat of learning.
+
+[Illustration: 9024]
+
+Various stories are told as to the origin of the name. Perhaps it may
+be from some tradition of Roger Bacon, who had his study and laboratory
+here, over the ancient gate. There was a saying, that this study would
+fall when a man more learned than Bacon passed under it; so that the
+name may be an uncomplimentary reference to the troops of students
+entering Oxford by this thoroughfare. But such speculations need nut
+hinder us. We are bound for London--a voyage of some 115 miles, though
+only 52 by rail. Many boatmen will prefer to take the train for Goring,
+saving six-and-twenty miles of water travelling, and avoiding the most
+tedious and on the whole least picturesque part of the journey.
+Still, in any case Nuneham must be seen, with Iffley Lock and Sandford
+Lasher--familiar names to boating men!--upon the way.
+
+[Illustration: 8024]
+
+Nuneham is a charming domain, scene of picnic parties innumerable, yet
+freshly beautiful to every visitor who can enjoy woodland walks and
+verdant slopes, with gardens planned by Mason the poet, in which art and
+taste have, as it were, only improved upon the hints and suggestions of
+nature; and breezy heights from which the prospect, if less extensive
+than some other far-famed English views, may surely vie in loveliness
+with any of them.
+
+The intending visitor must be careful to ascertain the days and
+conditions of access to the grounds; and in his ramble must be sure to
+include the old "Carfax" conduit, removed in 1787 from the "four ways"
+(for the "Car" is evidently _quatre_, whatever the "fax" may be) in
+Oxford, and set on a commanding eminence, the distant spires and towers
+of the city, with Blenheim Woods in the back-ground, being seen in one
+direction, and the view in another bounded by the line of the Chiltern
+Hills.
+
+[Illustration: 8025]
+
+When the oarsman has once left behind the wooded slopes of Nuneham, with
+the overhanging trees reflected in the silvery waters, he will find the
+way to Abingdon monotonous. He will perhaps be startled by seeing picnic
+parties in large boats, towed from the shore by stalwart peasants,
+harnessed to the rope. Let us hope that the toil is easier than it
+looks! On the whole, we do not recommend the long détour by Abingdon,
+although Clifton Hampden is charming, and Dorchester, near the junction
+of the Thame and the Thames--once a Roman camp, afterwards the see of
+the first Bishop of Wessex, but now a poor village--is well worth a
+visit. It is startling to find a minster in a hamlet.
+
+Probably, however, the antiquarian may be more interested in the remains
+of the Whittenham earthworks, which in British or Saxon times defended
+the meeting-point of the rivers. The Thame Hows in on the left.
+
+On the hill to the right is Sinodun, a remarkably fine British camp.
+The whole neighbourhood, so still and peaceful now, tells of bygone
+greatness, and of many a struggle of which the records have vanished
+from the page of history. Not far, however, from Dorchester in another
+direction is Chalgrove Field, where the brave and patriotic Hampden
+received his death-wound. His name, and that of Falkland, to be noticed
+farther on, awaken in these scenes now so tranquil the remembrance of
+the stormy times when, in this Thames Valley, were waged those conflicts
+out of which in so large a measure sprang the freedom and progress of
+modern England.
+
+At Dorchester we are still eleven miles by water from Goring; and though
+the angler may loiter down the stream, we must hasten on, though ancient
+Wallingford and rustic Cleeve are not unworthy of notice. At Goring the
+chief beauties of the river begin to disclose themselves.
+
+Ralph Waldo Emerson says of the English landscape, that "it seems to
+be finished with the pencil instead of the plough." Our fields are
+cultivated like gardens. Neat, trim hedgerows, picturesque villages,
+spires peeping from among groves of trees, cottages gay with flowers
+and evergreens, suggest that the landscape gardener rather than the
+agriculturist has been everywhere at work. If this be true of England as
+a whole, it is yet more strikingly true of the district through which
+we are about to pass. A thousand years of peaceful industry have subdued
+the wildness of nature; and the river glides between banks radiant
+with beauty: "The little hills rejoice on every side; the pastures are
+clothed with Hocks, the valleys are covered over with corn; they shout
+for joy, they also sing."
+
+Yet there is no lack of variety. The course of the river is broken up by
+innumerable "aits" ("eyots"), or little islands; some covered with trees
+which dip their branches into the stream, others with reeds and osier,
+the haunts of wild fowl; on others, again, a cottage or a summer-house
+peeps out from amongst the foliage. Sometimes these aits seem to block
+up the channel, and leave no exit, so that the boat seems to be afloat
+on a tiny lake, till a stroke or two of the oar discloses a narrow
+passage into the stream beyond. Sometimes a line of chalk down bounds
+the view, its delicately curved sides dotted over with juniper bushes,
+the dark green of which contrasts finely with the light grey of the
+turf. Then comes a range of hanging beech-wood coming down to the
+water's edge, or a broad expanse of meadow, where the cattle wade
+knee-deep in grass, or a mansion whose grounds have been transformed
+into a paradise by lavish expenditure and fine taste, or a village, the
+rustic beauty of which might realise the dreams of poet or of painter.
+The locks, mill-dams, or weirs with their dashing waters, give
+animation to the scene. Nor is that additional charm often wanting, of
+which Dr. Johnson used to speak. "The finest landscape in the world,"
+he would say, "is improved by a good inn in the foreground." True,
+there are no great hotels, after the modern fashion; but a series of
+comfortable homely village inns will be found, such as Izaak Walton
+loved, and which are still favourite haunts with the brethren of "the
+gentle craft." The landlord, learned in all anglers' lore, is delighted
+to show where the big pike lies in a sedgy pool, where the perch will
+bite most freely, or to suggest the most killing fly to cast for trout
+over the mill-pond; and is not too proud, when the day's task is done,
+to wait upon the oarsman or the angler at his evening meal.
+
+     * As we write, the following letter to the Times arrests our
+     attention; it is too graphic, as well as accurate, to be
+     lost:--
+
+     "I will not tell you where I am, except that I am staying at
+     an hotel on the banks of the River Thames. I hesitate to
+     name the place, charming as it is, because I am sure, when
+     its beauties are known, it will be hopelessly vulgarised.
+     Mine host, the pleasantest of landlords, his wife, the most
+     agreeable of her sex, will charge, too, in proportion as the
+     plutocracy invade us. I am surrounded by the most charming
+     scenery. Few know, and still fewer appreciate the beauties
+     of our own River Thames. I have been up and down the Rhine;
+     but I confess, taking all in all, Oxford to Gravesend
+     pleases me more. Herc, in addition to what I have described,
+     I am on the river's brink; I can row about to my heart's
+     content for a very moderate figure; excellent fishing;
+     newspapers to be procured, and postal arrangements of a
+     character not to worry you, and yet sufficient to keep you
+     _au fait_ with your business arrangements. What do I want
+     more? Prices are moderate, the village contains houses
+     suitable to all clashes, and the inhabitants are pleased to
+     see you. I can wear flannels without being stared at, and I
+     can see the opposite sex, in the most bewitching and
+     fascinating of costumes, rowing about (with satisfaction,
+     too) the so-called lords of creation. As for children, there
+     is no end of amusement for them--dabbling in the water,
+     feeding the swans, the fields, and the safety of a punt. We
+     have both aristocratic and well-to-do people here--names
+     well known in town; but I must not, nor will I, betray them.
+     On the towing-path this morning was to be seen the smartest
+     of our Judges in a straw hat and a tourist suit, equally
+     becoming to him as it was well cut.
+
+     "Let me advise all your readers who are hesitating where to
+     go not to overlook the natural beauties of our River Thames.
+     There are one or two steamers that make the journey up and
+     down the river in three days, stopping at various places,
+     and giving ample opportunity for passengers both to see and
+     appreciate the scenery.
+
+     "E. C. W."
+
+To describe in detail all the points of beauty that lie before us, would
+require far more space than we have at disposal; and a dry catalogue
+of names would interest no one. We have started, as said before,
+from Goring, where the twin village Streatley--bearing in its name a
+reminiscence of the old Roman road Ikenild Street,--nestles at the foot
+of its romantic wooded hill. The comfort of the little hostelry and
+the charm of the scenery invite a longer stay, but we must press on.
+Pangbourne and Whitchurch, also twin villages, joined by a pretty wooden
+bridge, once more invite delay. On the right, the little river Pang
+flows in between green hills; on the left, or the Whitchurch side,
+heights clothed with the richest foliage shut in the scene. The cottages
+are embosomed amid the trees; the clear river catches a thousand
+reflections from hillside, and sky; the waters of the weir dash merrily
+down; and the fishermen, each in his punt moored near mid-stream,
+yielding themselves to the tranquil delight of the perfect scene,
+are further gladdened by many an encouraging nibble. Surely of all
+amusements the most restful is fishing from a punt! Most persons would
+find a day of absolute idleness intolerable. But here we have just
+that measure of expectation and excitement which enable even a busy and
+active man to sit all day doing nothing.
+
+[Illustration: 8027]
+
+Into the question of the cruelty of the sport we do not enter; but its
+soothing, tranquillising character cannot be denied. For ourselves, our
+business is not to angle, but to observe. As we row past these grave
+and solemn men, absorbed in the endeavour to hook a dace or gudgeon,
+and recognise among them one or two of the hardest workers in London, we
+feel, at any rate, that the familiar sneer about "a rod with a line at
+one end, and a fool at the other," may not be altogether just.
+
+Passing a series of verdant lawns, sloping to the river's brink, we
+reach Mapledurham and Purley, on opposite sides of the river at one of
+its most exquisite bends. The former place is celebrated by Pope as the
+retreat of his ladye love Martha Blount; when
+
+     "She went to plain-work, and to purling brooks,
+     Old-fashioned halls, dull aunts, and croaking rooks."
+
+The latter was the residence of Warren Hastings during his trial, and is
+not to be confounded with the Purley in Surrey, where Horne Tooke wrote
+his celebrated _Diversions_, on the origin and history of words.
+
+The next halting-place is Caversham, sometimes magniloquently described
+as "the port of Reading." Here the Thames widens out, as shown in the
+view which prefaces the present chapter; the eel-traps, or "bucks,"
+extending half across the river. On the occasion of our visit to the
+spot, it was our intention to stop for the night at Caversham; but as
+the inn was crowded and noisy, we resolved to push on to Sonning. The
+evening was already closing in, and before we reached our destination it
+had grown dark. The trees stood up solemnly against the sky, from which
+the twilight had not wholly departed. Their shadows fell mysteriously
+across the river, rendering the task of steering a difficult one.
+
+[Illustration: 9028]
+
+At length the welcome lights of the village were descried through the
+deepening gloom; and we landed, having suffered no more serious mishap
+than running into an ait, which our steersman mistook for a shadow,
+in the endeavour to avoid a shadow which he mistook for the bank. Next
+morning, after a plunge into the clear cool water of the pool at the
+foot of Sonning Weir, a scamper round the village, a climb to the top
+of the tower for the magnificent view, and a hearty breakfast, we were
+ready for an early start, whilst the dew was yet on the grass, and
+the air had not lost its freshness. Here the Kennet, "for silver
+eels renowned," as Pope has it, flows in from the southwest, with its
+memories of the high-minded and chivalrous Falkland, who fell at the
+battle of Newbury, on the banks of this river. A little lower down the
+Loddon enters the Thames from the south, between Shiplake and Wargrave.
+The picturesque churches of these two villages were soon passed, and we
+entered the fine expanse of Henley Reach, famous in boat-racing annals.
+Here for many years the University matches were rowed before their
+removal to Putney. No sheet of water could be better suited to the
+purpose, and the change is regretted by many boating-men.
+
+[Illustration: 0031]
+
+About four miles below Henley, in one of the loveliest spots on the
+river, are the ruins of Medmenham Abbey, notorious in the latter half of
+the eighteenth century, as the scene of the foul and blasphemous orgies
+of the "Franciscans." The club took its name from Sir Francis Dashwood,
+its founder, and numbered amongst its members many who were conspicuous,
+not only for rank and station, but for intellectual ability and
+political influence. Its proceedings were invested with profound
+secrecy; but enough was known to show that the most degrading vices
+were practised, and the lowest depths of wickedness reached;--strange
+profanation of one of Nature's loveliest shrines!
+
+We are now approaching the point at which the beauty of the river
+culminates. From Marlow, past Cookham, Hedsor and Cliefden, to
+Maidenhead, a distance of eight or ten miles, we gladly suspend the
+labour of the oar, and let the boat drift slowly with the stream. As we
+glide along, even this gentle motion is too rapid, and we linger on the
+way to feast our eyes with the infinitely varied combination of chalk
+cliff and swelling hill and luxuriant foliage which every turn of the
+river brings to view:
+
+Woods, meadows, hamlets, farms,
+
+Spires in the vale and towers upon the hills;
+
+[Illustration: 8031]
+
+  The great chalk quarries glaring through the shade.
+
+  The pleasant lanes and hedgerows, and those homes
+  Which seemed the very dwellings of content and peace and sunshine." *
+
+     * Down Stream to London. By the Rev. S. J. Stone.
+
+The "castled crags" of the Rhine and the Moselle,--the "blue rushing of
+the arrowy Rhone,"--the massive grandeur of the banks of the Danube, are
+far more imposing and stimulating; but the quiet, tranquil loveliness of
+this part of the Thames may make good its claim to take rank even with
+those world-famed rivers. There is something both unique and charming in
+the dry "combes," or fissures in the chalk ranges, rapidly descending,
+and garnished with sweeping foliage of untrimmed beech-trees. The
+branches gracefully bend down to the slope of the rising sward; while,
+from the steepness of the angle, the tree-tops appear from below as a
+succession of pinnacles against the sky. Many a roamer through distant
+lands has come home to give the palm for the perfection of natural
+beauty to the rocks and hanging woods of Cliefden. That they are within
+an hour's run of London does not indeed abate their claim to admiration,
+but may suggest the reason why they are so comparatively little known.
+The mansion on the height, designed by Sir Charles Barry, is now in the
+possession of the Duke of Westminster.
+
+[Illustration: 9032]
+
+Maidenhead is on the other side of the river; Taplow opposite. The
+bridge between them--one of Brunei's works, will be noted for its
+enormous span; its elliptical brick arches being, it is said, the widest
+of the kind in the world. From this point, if the beauty decreases, the
+historical interest becomes greater at every turn. First we pass the
+village and church of Bray. The scenery here is of little interest; but
+it is impossible not to give a thought to the vicar, Symond Symonds,
+commemorated in song. Let it be noted, however, that the lyrist has used
+a poetic licence in his dates. The historian, Thomas Fuller, tells the
+story: "The vivacious vicar, living under King Henry VIII., Edward VI.,
+Oueen Mary, and Oueen Elizabeth, was first a Papist, then a Protestant,
+then a Papist, then a Protestant again. He had seen some martyrs burnt
+(two miles off), at Windsor, and found this fire too hot for his tender
+temper. The vicar being taxed by one for being a turncoat and inconstant
+changeling. 'Not so,' said he, 'for I always kept my principle, which is
+this--to live and to die the Vicar of Bray.'" The type is but too true
+to human nature, and not only in matters ecclesiastical. But instead of
+staying to moralise, we will notice with interest that in this church
+is preserved an ancient copy of Fox's _Book of Martyrs_, chained to
+the reading-desk, as in the days of Oueen Elizabeth. It is better to be
+reminded of "the faith and patience of the saints," than of the light
+conviction and easy apostacy of politic "believers;" and so the old
+church at Bray has taught us a refreshing and unexpected lesson.
+
+Soon the towers of Windsor are seen rising above the trees; then Eton
+College comes into view, with its
+
+          "distant spires, antique towers
+     That crown the watery glade."
+
+[Illustration: 0033]
+
+Perhaps the best view of the castle from the Thames is that from a point
+just beyond the Great Western Railway bridge. When the queen is absent,
+access is easy. St. George's Chapel, built by Edward IV., is the finest
+existing specimen of the architecture of that period; and the view from
+the North Terrace, constructed by Queen Elizabeth, is perhaps the most
+beautiful on the River Thames.
+
+A little lower down, and we are passing between Runnimede ("Meadow of
+Council"), where the barons camped, and Magna Charta Island, where the
+great charter of English liberty was signed; and a temporary struggle
+between king and nobles laid the broad foundations of English freedom.
+
+[Illustration: 9034]
+
+As we sweep round the bend beneath the broad meadow and the wooded isle,
+"while we muse the fire burneth,"--the ardour of grateful love to Him
+who has shaped the destinies of our beloved land, and has never from
+that hour withdrawn the trust then committed to the nation, of being the
+guardians and pioneers of the world's freedom. A multitude of thoughts
+and questionings throng in upon us, but we must not lose the opportunity
+of impressing on our memory the outward features of the scene. There is
+not much to see: if there be time to land upon the island, it will be
+as well to do so, and enter the pretty modern cottage there erected,
+containing the very stone--if tradition is to be believed--on which the
+Charter was laid for the royal signature.
+
+From Runnimede, it is but an easy climb to the brow of Cooper's Hill,
+with its far-famed view of the river, of Windsor, and its woods. Dr.
+Johnson speaks of Sir John Denham's poem, of which we have taken some
+lines as the motto to this chapter, as "the first English specimen of
+local poetry." Its subject, as well as its style, will preserve it
+from the oblivion to which the greater number of the poet's works have
+descended.
+
+Another Coin falls into the river, to the left, a little farther
+on--suggestive, in its name, of the Roman occupation; the "street" to
+the west here crossing the Thames by a bridge. "London Stone," a few
+hundred yards lower down, marks the entrance into Middlesex; then clean
+and quiet Staines----"Stones," so termed, perhaps, from the piers of
+the old Roman bridge, or, it may be, from the London Stone itself, comes
+into view: but if the traveller has time to spare, he will rather pause
+at Laleham, so well known to every Christian educator as the earliest
+scene of Arnold's labours.
+
+[Illustration: 0035]
+
+"The first reception of the tidings of his election at Rugby," we are
+told by his biographer, "was overclouded with deep sorrow at leaving
+the scene of so much happiness. Years after he had left it, he still
+retained his early affection for it, and till he had purchased his house
+in Westmoreland, he entertained a lingering hope that he might return
+to it in his old age, when he should have retired from Rugby. Often he
+would revisit it, and delighted in renewing his acquaintance with all
+the families of the poor whom he had known during his residence; in
+showing to his children his former haunts; in looking once again on his
+favourite views of the great plain of Middlesex--the lonely walks along
+the quiet banks of the Thames--the retired garden with its 'Campus
+Martins,' and its 'wilderness of trees;' which lay behind the house,
+and which had been the scenes of so many sportive games and serious
+conversations." *
+
+[Illustration: 9036]
+
+Chertsey, on the other side of the river, is next passed, the leisurely
+traveller having the opportunity, if he so please, of visiting the
+house of Cowley the poet, or of climbing to St. Anne's Hill, once the
+residence of the statesman Charles James Fox.
+
+Then, still on the right, the mouth of the Wey is seen, the pretty town
+of Wey-bridge not being far off. Towns and villages now multiply: the
+villas of city men begin to dot the banks, and the suburban railway
+station appears, with its hurrying morning and evening crowds. The
+chronicle of names now would be like the monotonous cry of the railway
+porter: "Shepperton; Walton; Sunbury; Hampton." But as yet we need
+not join with the throng. The "silent highway"--as the river has been
+called--is also a retreat. Still we can leisurely survey the charm,
+which, so long as the sky, the water, and the trees remain, no builder
+can efface, although he may try his best, or worst.
+
+A bend in the river between Shepperton and Walton is of historic
+interest, as there Julius Cæsar with his legions forced the passage of
+the Thames, and routed the British General Cassivelaunus. "Cæsar led
+his army to the territories of Cassivelaunus, to the river Thames,
+which river can be crossed on foot in one place only, and that with
+difficulty. On arriving, he perceived that great forces of the enemy
+were drawn up on the opposite bank, which was moreover fortified by
+sharp stakes set along the margin, a similar stockade being fixed in the
+bed of the river, and covered by the stream. Having ascertained these
+facts from prisoners and deserters, Cæsar sent the cavalry in front, and
+ordered the legions to follow immediately. The soldiers advanced with
+such rapidity and impetuosity, although up to their necks in the water,
+that the enemy could not withstand the onset, but quitted the banks and
+betook themselves to flight." * The name Cowey, or Coway Stakes, to this
+day commemorates the event.
+
+     * Stanley's _Life_ vol. i. p. 37. One of Arnold's Laleham
+     pupils, afterwards his colleague at Rugby, writes: "The most
+     remarkable thing which struck me at once in joining the
+     Laleham circle, was the wonderful healthiness of tone and
+     feeling which prevailed in it. Everything about me I
+     immediately felt to be most real; it was a place where a
+     new-comer at once felt that a great and earnest work was
+     going forward. Dr. Arnold's great power as a private tutor
+     resided in this, that he gave such an intense earnestness to
+     life. Every pupil was made to feel that there was a work for
+     him to do--that his happiness as well as his duty lay in
+     doing that work well. Hence, an indescribable zest was
+     communicated to a young man's feeling about life; a strange
+     joy came over him on discovering that he had the means of
+     being useful, and thus of being happy; and a deep respect
+     and ardent attachment sprang up towards him who had taught
+     him thus to value life and his own self, and his work and
+     mission in this world." September 23, 1872.
+
+[Illustration: 0038]
+
+     "Who calls the council, states the certain day.
+     Who forms the phalanx, and who points the way."--_Pope_
+
+[Illustration: 0039]
+
+Two or three miles farther, and just past Hampton village, on the left
+bank, the traveller will notice a little rotunda with a Grecian portico
+with a mansion of some pretensions in the wooded back-ground. The house
+was Garrick's residence, and in the rotunda there originally stood
+Roubiliac's famous statue of Shakspere, now in the British Museum.
+Bushey Park and Hampton Court next tempt us to the shore. Great names of
+history again rise to memory--Wolsey, Cromwell, Williams. But the charm
+of Hampton Court is, that its palace and gardens are free of access to
+the people; a privilege which, all the summer through, is appreciated
+by eager, happy throngs. But let us cross the river to the comparative
+solitude of the two Dittons--"Thames," and "Long." An _impromptu_ of
+poor Theodore Hook, lively and graceful, according to his wont, has led
+many a tourist in search of a holiday to this pretty neighbourhood, and
+the poet's memory is reverenced in the village accordingly. Here are the
+first and last verses:
+
+  "When sultry suns and dusty streets proclaim town's 'winter season,'
+  And rural scenes and cool retreats sound something like high treason--
+  I steal away to shades serene which yet no bard has hit on,
+  And change the bustling, heartless scene for quietude and Ditlon.
+  Here, in a placid waking dream, I'm free from worldly troubles,
+  Calm as the rippling silver stream that in the sunshine bubbles;
+  And when sweet Eden's blissful bowers, some abler bard has writ on.
+  Despairing to transcend his powers, I'll-ditto-say for Ditton."
+
+Then comes trim Surbiton with its villas, and Kingston--once, as its
+name imports, a town of kings. Por here were crowned several Saxon
+monarchs; is there not the coronation-stone in the market-place,
+engraven with their names? Teddington Lock, a little lower down, is the
+last upon the Thames; and here too the anglers of the river put forth
+their chief and almost their final strength. The mile from Teddington to
+Eel-pie Island off Twickenham will be a quiet one indeed, if the voyager
+interfere not with the sport of one or other of these gentry, and draw
+down their resentment accordingly. Strawberry Hill reminds us of Horace
+Walpole, literary idleness, sham Gothic, and _bric-à-brac_. We glance
+and pass on. Pope's Villa no longer exists; only a relic of his famous
+grotto remains; but a monument to the poet is in Twickenham Church,
+with an inscription by Warburton, setting forth that Pope "would not be
+buried in Westminster Abbey."
+
+Past wood-fringed meadows on either hand, the "Broadwater," now rightly
+named--sweeps on to Richmond, where we must ascend the far-famed hill,
+to gaze once more upon the finest river-view in Europe. A little
+farther down, on autumn days, off lsleworth, may be descried flights of
+swallows, preparing for their outward journey. "They arrive," writes the
+artist who has depicted the scene, "in a mass, at the same hour,
+without confusion, as it were in regiments, and in some of their oblique
+evolutions resemble a drift of black snow. At dusk they all sink down
+into the island or 'ait' opposite the church of Isleworth, where a large
+bed of osiers affords them in its slender wands a settling-place for the
+night."
+
+[Illustration: 0041]
+
+From this point, all Londoners know their river. The beauty of nature
+is no longer present, but a new sentiment of wonder and interest takes
+possession of us. We feel the stir and hear the roar of the great
+Babel. What were once quiet suburban villages are now but a part of
+the metropolis. Still, however, they retain something of the quaint
+picturesqueness of the last century. In many a nook and corner we
+come upon solid comfortable houses of red brick, where our
+great-grandmothers, over a "dish of tea," may have discussed the "poems
+of a person of quality," or "the writings of the ingenious Mr. Addison."
+
+[Illustration: 8043]
+
+These relics of the last century are rapidly disappearing.
+
+Cheyne Walk at Chelsea, which now forms so striking an object from
+the river, can hardly hold out much longer against the march of modern
+improvement, and will probably ere long share the fate of the Lord
+Mayor's barge, and disappear from view.
+
+The noble embankments which now skirt so large a portion of the London
+river, and the bridges old and new, afford every facility for the full
+study of the Thames in all its aspects. Yet those who only cross with
+the hurrying crowd miss half the picturesqueness of what many who
+have travelled far feel to be among the most picturesque city views in
+Europe. Wordsworth's sonnet, beginning--
+
+     "Earth has not anything to show more fair,"
+
+was written on Westminster Bridge! But then it was on an early summer
+morning, when the "mighty heart" of the city was "lying still," and the
+"very houses seemed asleep." The blue sky, unobscured by smoke, hung
+in the freshness of the dawn over the dwellings of men and the
+heaven-pointing spires. The night airs had swept away every city taint,
+and the atmosphere was pure as among the mountains or by the sea. The
+experiment is worth making still at the cost of an hour or two's earlier
+rising, to prove how exhilarating, fresh, and delightful the London air
+may be.
+
+Or perhaps the charm of the scene may be more deeply felt amid the
+mystery of night, when the clouds have dispersed, and but for some rare
+footfalls there is silence, and the countless lights stretch in long
+lines, reflected by the gently rippling waters, while even the bright
+glare of the railway lamps aloft only add colour and splendour to the
+gleaming array, and the steadfast stars hang overhead. By night or in
+early morning, perhaps through force of contrast, the full beauty of
+these London river scenes are felt. Or, to vary the impression, we may
+take boat, as did our fathers, from bridge to bridge, "from Westminster
+to Rotherhithe," or farther down the broadening stream, with the
+wealth of the world, as it almost seems, ranged on either hand in the
+close-crowded vessels or the stupendous warehouses. Every such excursion
+is a new revelation, even to minds accustomed to the scene, of what is
+meant by English commerce, and of the ties which connect us with all
+mankind. Yet there is much to remind us that the universal reign of
+peace has not as yet set in. Grim preparations for defence and war
+bespeak a nation prepared, if needs be, for strife. And as at length
+we reach Tilbury Fort, and glow under the influence of the invigorating
+sea-breeze, great memories rush in upon us of armaments once gathered
+here; to lead, as it seemed, the forlorn hope;--to attain, as by God's
+great mercy it proved, the triumphant victory, of British Protestantism
+and liberty.
+
+When King James I. threatened the recalcitrant corporation of London
+with the removal of the court to Oxford, the Lord Mayor, with scarcely
+veiled sarcasm, replied, "May it please your Majesty, of your grace, not
+to take away the Thames too!" If the Upper Thames awakens our admiration
+by its loveliness, the Lower Thames inspires us with wonder and almost
+awe at the boundless wealth and world-wide commerce which it bears upon
+its ample bosom. Other rivers may vie with it in beauty. In far-reaching
+influence it stands alone. As we sail through its forest of masts, or
+follow its course down to the sea, we feel that we are surrounded by
+influences which stretch to the very ends of the earth. The stream whose
+course we have traced from the tiny rivulet in Trewsbury Mead has become
+the channel of communications which, for good or evil, are affecting
+every nation under heaven. May He who has endowed us with such wealth
+and power lead us to hold them both under a deep sense of responsibility
+to Him who gave them!--"Then shall our peace flow like a river, and our
+righteousness as the waves of the sea."
+
+
+
+
+SOUTH-EASTERN RAMBLES
+
+[Illustration: 0046]
+
+|HE is a benefactor to his species who makes two blades of corn grow
+where only one grew before." The substantial truth of the aphorism none
+will question; vet it would be a doubtful benefit if all our waste
+lands were reclaimed and brought under the plough. Enclosure Acts, by
+extending the area of our productive soil, have increased the resources
+of the country and the food of the people. But the total absorption into
+cultivated farms of heath, forest, and woodland would be to purchase the
+utilitarian advantage at too high a price.
+
+The open commons of Surrey and the rolling downs of Sussex are, in their
+way, of a beauty unsurpassed. Both are chiefly due to the great chalk
+formation, which comes down in a south-westerly direction from the
+eastern counties, breaks into the Chiltern Hills, extends over the
+greater part of Wiltshire, Dorsetshire, and Hampshire; and in the east
+of the last-named county becomes separated into two branches; one,
+the "North Downs," running almost due east to the North Foreland
+and Shakespere's Cliff; the other, the "South Downs," pursuing a
+south-easterly direction to Beachy Head. In their long and undulating
+course, they form innumerable combinations of picturesque beauty. Places
+elsewhere, well known and deservedly famous, are rivalled in loveliness
+by many a sequestered scene in the line of the lower chalk country,
+of which few but the thinly-scattered inhabitants, and now and then an
+unconventional tourist, have ever heard.
+
+[Illustration: 0048]
+
+The charm of these lines of rolling upland is much enhanced by the great
+rough plain which they inclose--"the Weald" (i.e. Forest), as it is
+termed--extending in an irregular triangle from the point where the
+Downs diverge to the British Channel. Geologists have framed many
+theories as to the formation of the Weald. It belongs to the Oolite
+formation below the chalk; it is the uppermost member of that formation,
+and was a deposit of sands and clays in a tropical climate, as is
+abundantly evident from animal and vegetable remains found there. These
+prove the existence of islands, banks and forests, forming the shores of
+a vast estuary, the embouchure of some great river from the west. At
+one time, the deep chalk deposit extended all over it; but this was
+disturbed by a line of elevation running along its east and west axis,
+the superincumbent chalk being broken up and washed away; hence the
+cliff-like aspect of the Downs in many places, where they descend
+precipitously to the sandy and gravelly edge of the valley, as to a
+beach. The remains of the huge land lizards and iguanodons of the Weald,
+collected by the late Dr. Mantell, form one of the most conspicuous
+exhibitions of fossil bones in the British Museum. The pretty little
+fossil ferns, Lonchopteris and Sphenopteris, found nature-printed on the
+sandstones, are, on the other hand, the very counterparts, in size and
+delicacy, of their present successors.
+
+In early times, as every local historian tells, the Weald was a chief
+seat of the iron manufacture in Great Britain. The ironstone found here
+was certainly wrought by the Romans and Saxons, if not by the ancient
+Britons; and down to the seventeenth century the trade was prosperous.
+Many an old manor-house, to the present day, attests this former
+prosperity, while its memories linger also in such local names as
+Furnace Place, Cinder Hill, and Hammer Ponds. The balustrades round St.
+Paul's Cathedral are a relic of the Sussex ironworks. Want of fuel, and
+the more abundant and rich ironstone of the Coal-measures, caused the
+decay of the industry, after whole forests had been destroyed to feed
+the furnaces. The old-fashioned cottages, here and there remaining,
+speak of days of former prosperity among the working-classes; nor
+are they even yet devoid of comfort, although the transition has been
+great--ironworkers then, chicken-fatteners now!
+
+The ridge that runs through the centre of the Weald is called the Forest
+Ridge and Ashdown. It is here that the chief beauties of the district
+are concentrated, while the whole plain lies open to view from the
+heights. Starting from East Grinstead, near to which is the source of
+the Medway, a walk of extraordinary interest and sylvan beauty leads by
+Forest Row and the ruins of Brambletye House up to High Beeches; from
+which spot a pleasant excursion may be made to Horsted Keynes, where the
+gentle and saintly Archbishop Leighton lies buried. His grave is in the
+chancel; his tomb outside the church. Thence, bearing to the east, the
+traveller may work his way to Crowborough Beacon, near the road from
+Tunbridge Wells to Lewes, where, with a foreground of moss and fern,
+dotted here and there by fir trees, he may look over the whole rolling
+surface of the Weald, rich with the flowers of spring, the blossoms of
+summer, or the golden fruitage and yellow corn of the autumn; while the
+purple downs on either hand close in the prospect, with just one gleam,
+beyond Beachy Head, of the distant sea. Then, if desirous of prolonging
+his ramble to other points of view, he may cross the hills to
+Heathfield, resting on the way at Mayfield, an old-world Wealden town,
+once a residence of archbishops, and the traditional scene of the
+renowned combat between Dunstan and the Devil. Here the traveller
+may find a temporary resting-place in some rustic hostelry, where,
+if luxuries are not obtainable, the eggs and bacon are wholesome and
+abundant; the sheets are fragrant with lavender, and though perhaps
+a little wondered at by the rustic children, he will have a home-like
+welcome.
+
+[Illustration: 0050]
+
+Again we leave the beaten track, and push on through the vale of
+Heathfield to the south; for a walk of seven or eight miles will bring
+us to Hurstmonceux, inseparably connected with the name and work of
+Archdeacon Hare, the philosophic theologian and devout Christian, whose
+books on the Victory of Faith and the Mission of the Comforter have done
+so much to elevate the religious thought of the age; and who, by
+his _Vindication of Luther_, has made it impossible for any man of
+competent knowledge and fair judgment to repeat old calumnies against
+the great Reformer.
+
+[Illustration: 0051]
+
+We visit the castle--one of the finest remains of the later
+feudalism--fortress and mansion in one. "Persons who have visited Rome,"
+writes Archdeacon Hare, "on entering the Castle-court, and seeing the
+piles of brickwork strewn about, have been reminded of the Baths of
+Caracalla, though of course on a miniature scale; the illusion being
+perhaps fostered by the deep blue of the Sussex sky, which, when
+compared with that in more northerly parts of England, has almost an
+Italian character." After exploring the great ruddy-tinted ruins, we
+may ascend to the church, taking a glance at the rectory, the home of
+so much piety and genius, seeing once again in thought the archdeacon's
+friend and curate, poor John Sterling, as described by Hare, with his
+tall form rapidly advancing across the lawn to the study window; or
+more pensively may pass to the churchyard, where so many members of the
+parted family band sleep as "one in Christ."
+
+Before turning northwards, let us make our way to Beachy Mead, grandest
+of the English chalk headlands in the south; or, resting for a while at
+Eastbourne, that bright modern watering-place, between the sea and the
+hills, with the quaint Sussex village in the background, we may prepare
+for a long, health-giving, inspiring ramble over the South Downs, "that
+chain of majestic mountains," as White of Selborne calls them--for the
+most part bare treeless hills, sweeping in many a grand curve, broken
+by shadowed "coombes," or wooded flowery "deans." On the way to Lewes,
+Firle Beacon, one of the highest points of the Downs, may be ascended,
+after which the traveller may take the rail to Brighton and Shoreham,
+and strike up hill again into what is perhaps the finest part of the
+range, where, from Chanctonbury Ring, he will be able to command at
+one view all its most characteristic features. The height itself is
+conspicuous far and wide, from its dark crown of fir trees. Probably the
+"Ring" denotes here the ancient entrenchment, British or Roman, which
+is circular, or it may be a reminiscence of the time when fairies were
+believed in; "fairy rings" being a common feature of the Downs; caused
+really by the growth of mushrooms, the grass, by the decay of the
+latter, becoming of a deeper green.
+
+[Illustration: 0053]
+
+Steyning is the nearest station to Chanctonbury, and we would advise
+the tourist to take train there for the North Downs, or better still, to
+proceed in the opposite direction to Arundel, famous for its picturesque
+castle and park, with its fair historic pastures: but in either case the
+Weald will be crossed via Horsham. About half way between Arundel and
+Horsham, many a traveller will be disposed to turn off to the little
+Sussex town of Midhurst, on the edge of the Weald, where Richard Cobden
+was born, and where the old "Schola Grammaticalis," the most prominent
+building in the town, has the twin honour of the great Free Trader's
+early education, as well as that of Sir Charles Lyell, the geologist.
+Between this town and Dorking, whither the traveller is bound, he may
+see to his left the wooded slopes and imposing tower-crowned summit of
+Leith Hill, the loftiest elevation in southeastern England. If he can
+leave the rail, say at the little roadside station of Capel, and climb
+the hill from the south-east by Ockley and Tanhurst, he will not only
+be richly rewarded, but may perhaps express his astonishment that such
+views and such a walk should be found within a short afternoon's journey
+of London. From the summit of Leith Hill, it is said that ten counties
+are visible; not only Kent, Sussex, and Surrey, but Hampshire,
+Berkshire, Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Middlesex. Hertfordshire, and
+Essex. The eye ranges, in short, from a height of just less than 1000
+feet over a circumference of 200 miles of fair and various landscape;
+valley and upland; broad meadows and wooded slopes, with many an open
+ridge against the sky. Only the charm of river or lake is wanting;
+but we are in no mood to be critical. Downwards, the walk is full of
+interest, through wooded lanes to Anstiebury, where there is a fine
+Roman encampment, and on to romantic Holmwood, with its pine woods and
+breezy common; past Deepdene, the wonderfully beautiful seat of the
+Hope family, and so to Dorking, where the wearied pedestrian will find a
+pleasant rest, with nothing to excite him, save the remembrances of his
+little excursion.
+
+[Illustration: 0055]
+
+If he were not well prepared for its exceeding loveliness beforehand, it
+must have been to him a surprise as well as a delight. Comparisons are
+proverbially distasteful, but we can understand, if we can not wholly
+endorse, the rapturous verdict of John Dennis, who gives it as his
+opinion that the prospect from Leith Hill "surpasses at once in rural
+charm, pomp, and magnificence" the view of the Val d'Arno from the
+Apennines, or of the Campagna from Tivoli.
+
+[Illustration: 0056]
+
+We are now fairly in the Surrey Hills, and may put what some will think
+the very crown to these south-eastern excursions by a walk from Dorking
+to Farnham. Ascending by one of many lanes, shadowed (at the time of our
+visit) by hedges bright with hawthorn berries, and stately trees just
+touched with the russet and gold of early autumn, we are soon upon an
+upland stretch of heath and forest, still remaining in all the wildness
+of nature. Sometimes the path leads us between venerable trees--oak and
+beech and yew, whose branches form an impenetrable roof overhead, then
+traverses a sweep of bare hill, bright with gorse and heather, then
+plunges into some fairy dell, carpeted with softest moss. Many of the
+"stately homes of England," with their embowering trees upon the lower
+slopes, add a charm to the scene by their reminiscences as well as by
+their beauty. To the left is Wotton; made famous by the name and
+genius of John Evelyn, author of _Sylva_ and the _Diary_--the scholar,
+gentleman, and Christian--pure-minded in an age of corruption, and the
+admiration of dissolute courtiers, who could respect what they would not
+imitate. It is to him that Cowley says:
+
+     "Happy art thou, whom God does bless
+     With the full choice of thine own happiness;
+     And happier yet, because thou'rt blest
+     With wisdom how to choose the best."
+
+That the choice was made, for life and death, appears by the inscription
+which Evelyn directed to be placed on his tombstone at Wotton. "That
+living in an age of extraordinary events and revolution, he had learned
+from thence this truth, which he desired might be thus communicated to
+posterity: that all is vanity which is not honest, and that there is no
+solid wisdom but real piety."
+
+Two or three miles further Albury is reached, with its lovely gardens
+designed by Evelyn. The curious traveller may here inspect the sumptuous
+church erected by the late Mr. Drummond, the owner of Albury, for the
+followers of Edward Irving. The worth of Mr. Drummond's character, with
+the shrewd sense and caustic wit by which he was wont to enliven
+the debates of the House of Commons, laid a deeper hold upon his
+contemporaries than his theological peculiarities; and the special views
+of which this temple is the costly memorial have proved of insufficient
+power to sway the minds and hearts of men. Still ascending, we reach
+again the summit of steep downs, and advancing by noble yew-trees gain
+at Newland's Corner another magnificent view. The hill of the "Holy
+Martyrs'" Chapel, now corrupted to "Saint Martha's," may next be
+climbed, and a short rest at the fine old town of Guildford will be
+welcome. The castle, the churches with their monuments, and Archbishop
+Abbot's Hospital, are all worthy of a visit; but, unless we have a day
+to spare, we must be content with but a hurried glance, for we have
+still the "Hog's Back" to traverse, a ten miles' walk to Farnham.
+
+Climbing from the station at Guildford through pleasant lanes, the
+traveller emerges upon a narrow chalk-ridge, half-a-mile wide, and
+nearly level, which etymologists tell us was called by the Anglo-Saxons
+_Hoga_, a hill, whence the ridge received its name. Possibly, however,
+a simpler derivation, as the more obvious, is also the more correct. The
+long upland unbroken line might not unaptly have been compared with
+one of those long, lean, narrow-backed swine with which early English
+illuminations make us familiar; and the homeliness of the name
+would quite accord with the habit of early topographers. The walk is
+interesting, but, after the varied beauties of the way from Dorking to
+Guildford, may appear at first slightly monotonous. On either side the
+fair, fertile champaign of Surrey stretches to the horizon, broken
+here and there by low wood-crowned hills, and at one point especially,
+between Puttenham on the left, and Wanborough on the right, the
+combinations of view are very striking. Puttenham church-tower, and the
+manor-house, formerly the Priory, peep out from amongst the foliage of
+some grand old trees. A few cottages and farmhouses lie scattered about
+picturesquely, forming the very ideal of an old English village; while
+pine-covered Crooksbury Hill, with the Devil's Jumps and Hindhead in
+the farther distance, make a striking background to the view. "Wan" is
+evidently "Woden," and here there was no doubt a shrine of the ancient
+Saxon deity.
+
+We must not omit in passing to drink of the Wanborough spring, among the
+freshest and purest in England; never known, it is said, to freeze.
+
+Pursuing our journey, we presently look down upon Moor Park and
+Waverley, which we may either visit now, descending by the little,
+village of Seale, or reserve for an excursion from Farnham. Waverley
+contains the picturesque remains of an old Cistercian Abbey, built as
+the Cistercians always did build, in a charming valley, embosomed in
+hills, irrigated by a clear running stream, abounding in fish, and with
+current enough to turn the mill of the monastery. The annals of this
+great establishment, extending over two hundred and thirty years, were
+published towards the close of the seventeenth century; and Sir Walter
+Scott took from them the name now so familiar wherever the English
+language is spoken.
+
+Divided from Waverley by a winding lane, whose high banks and profuse
+undergrowth remind us of Devonshire, lies Moor Park. Hither Sir William
+Temple retired from the toils of State, to occupy his leisure by
+gardening, planting, and in writing memoirs. A trim garden, with
+stiff-clipped hedges, and watered by a straight canal which runs through
+it, is doubtless a reminiscence of Temple's residence as our ambassador
+at the Hague. "But," says Lord Macaulay, "there were other inmates of
+Moor Park to whom a higher interest belongs. An eccentric, uncouth,
+disagreeable young Irishman, who had narrowly escaped plucking at
+Dublin, attended Sir William as an amanuensis for board and twenty
+pounds a year; dined at the second table, wrote bad verses in praise of
+his employer, and made love to a very pretty dark-eyed young girl,
+who waited on Lady Giffard. Little did Temple imagine that the coarse
+exterior of his dependant concealed a genius equally suited to politics
+and to letters, a genius destined to shake great kingdoms, to stir the
+laughter and the rage of millions, and to leave to posterity memorials
+which can only perish with the English language. Little did he think
+that the flirtation in his servants' hall, which he, perhaps, scarcely
+deigned to make the subject of a jest, was the beginning of a long,
+unprosperous love, which was to be as widely famed as the passion of
+Petrarch or Abelard. Sir William's secretary was Jonathan Swift. Lady
+Giffard's waiting-maid was poor Stella."
+
+Just outside the lodge gate, at the end of the park furthest from the
+mansion, is a small house covered with roses and evergreens. It is known
+to the peasantry as Dame Swift's cottage. Our rustic guide pointed it
+out by this name, but who Dame Swift was he did not know. He had never
+heard of Stella and her sad history. An object of far greater interest
+to him was a large fox-earth, a couple of hundred yards away, in which
+some years ago "a miser" had lived and died. A whole crop of legends
+have already sprung up about the mysterious inmate of the cave. He was
+a nobleman, so said our informant, who had been crossed in love: he
+had made a vow that no human being should see his face, and accordingly
+never came out till after nightfall, even then being closely wrapped up
+in his cloak. After his death a party of ladies and gentlemen came
+down from London in a post-chaise and four; and having buried the body
+carried away "a cartload of golden guineas and fine dresses, which he
+had hid in the cave."
+
+[Illustration: 0059]
+
+The picturesqueness of the approach to Farnham, whether over the last
+ridge of the Hog's Back, or through the lanes from Seale, Moor Park,
+and Waverley, is much enhanced by the hop-gardens, which occupy about a
+thousand acres in the neighbourhood. For excellence the Farnham hops are
+considered to bear the palm, although the chief field of this peculiar
+branch of cultivation is in Kent. No south-eastern rambles, especially
+in the early autumn, would be complete without a visit to the gardens
+where the hop-picking is in full operation. It is the great holiday
+for thousands of the humbler class of Londoners, as well as the chosen
+resort of thousands of the "finest pisantry" from the Emerald Isle.
+Costermongers, watermen, sempstresses, factory girls, labourers of
+all descriptions, young and old, bear a hand at the work. The air is
+invigorating, the task to the industrious is easy, and the pay is not
+bad. The hop-pickers, who are in such numbers that they cannot obtain
+even humble lodgings in the villages, sleep in barns, sheds, stables,
+and booths, or even under the hedges in the lanes. A rough kind of
+order is maintained among themselves; although outbreaks of violence and
+debauchery sometimes happen. On the whole the work is not unhealthy, and
+the opportunity of engaging in it is as real a boon to the hop-pickers
+as the journey to Scarborough or Biarritz to those of another class.
+Besides which, the great gathering of people gives opportunities of
+which Christian activity avails itself; and the evening visit to the
+encampment, the homely address, the quiet talk, and the well-chosen
+tract, have been instrumental of lasting good to those whom religious
+agencies elsewhere had failed to reach.
+
+[Illustration: 0060]
+
+Farnham has special associations with both the Church and the Army; and
+the impartial visitor will no doubt take an opportunity of seeing the
+stately moated castle, the abode of the Bishops of Winchester, and of
+visiting the neighbouring camp of Aldershot. The politician will recal
+the name of William Cobbett, who was born in this neighbourhood, and
+in his own direct and homely style, often dwells on his boyish
+recollections of its charms. Some will not forget another name
+associated with this little Surrey town. One among the sweetest singers
+of our modern Israel, Augustus Toplady, was born at Farnham. He died
+at the age of thirty-eight, but he lived long enough to write "Rock of
+Ages, cleft for me and none need covet a nobler earthly immortality."
+
+[Illustration: 0062]
+
+
+
+
+OUR FOREST AND WOODLANDS
+
+|WHEN Britain was first brought by Roman ambition within the knowledge
+of Southern Europe, the interior of our Island was one vast forest.
+Cæsar and Strabo agree in describing its towns as being nothing more
+than spaces cleared of trees--"royds," or "thwaites" in North of England
+phrase--where a few huts were placed and defended by ditch or rampart.
+Somersetshire and the adjacent counties were covered by the Coit Mawr,
+or Great Wood. Asser tells us that Berkshire was so called from the Wood
+of Berroc, where the box-tree grew most abundantly. Buckinghamshire was
+so called from the great forests of beech (boc), of which the remnants
+still survive. The Cotswold Hills, and the Wolds of Yorkshire, are shown
+by their names to have been once far-spreading woodlands; and the
+same may be said of the Weald of Sussex, the subject, in part, of the
+preceding chapter. "In the district of the Weald," writes the Rev. Isaac
+Taylor, "almost every local name, for miles and miles, terminates in
+_hurst, ley, den, or field_. The _hursts_ were the dense portions of the
+forests; the _leys_ are the open forest-glades where the cattle love to
+lie; the dens are the deep wooded valleys, and the _fields_ were little
+patches of 'felled' or cleared land in the midst of the surrounding
+forest. From Petersfield and Midhurst, by Billinghurst, Cuckfield,
+Wadhurst, and Lamberhurst, as far as Hawkshurst and Tenterden, these
+names stretch in an uninterrupted string." And, again, "A line of
+names ending in _den_ testifies to the existence of the forest tract in
+Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire, and Huntingdon, which formed the western
+boundary of the East Saxon and East Anglican Kingdoms. Henley in Arden
+and Hampton in Arden are vestiges of the great Warwickshire forest of
+Arden, which stretched from the Forest of Dean to Sherwood Forest." *
+Hampshire was already a forest in the time of William the Conqueror:
+all he did was to sweep away the towns and villages which had sprung
+up within its precincts. Epping and Hainault are but fragments of
+the ancient forest of Essex, which extended as far as Colchester.
+Lancashire, Cheshire, Yorkshire, and the other northern counties, were
+the haunts of the wolf, the wild boar, and the red deer, which roamed at
+will over moorland and forest, and have given their names here and there
+to a bold upland or sequestered nook.
+
+Even down to the time of Oueen Elizabeth immense tracts of primeval
+forest remained unreclaimed. Sir Henry Spelman ** gives the following
+list of those which were still in existence.
+
+     * Words and Places, pp. 381-3.
+
+     ** Quoted in _English Forests and Forest Trees._
+
+[Illustration: 0064]
+
+[Illustration: 0065]
+
+This list is evidently far from complete. It may, however, serve to show
+the extent of unreclaimed land in England so recently as the sixteenth
+century. And here, it should be noted, that though, as a matter of fact,
+forest lands are generally woodlands also, this is not essential to
+the meaning of the word. A "forest," says Mr. Hensleigh Wedgwood, * "is
+properly a wilderness, or uncultivated tract of country; but, as such
+were commonly overgrown with trees, the word took the meaning of a large
+wood. We have many forests in England without a stick of timber upon
+them." It is especially so in Scotland, as many a traveller who has
+ridden all the long day by the treeless "Forest of Breadalbane" will
+well remember.
+
+     * _Dictionary of English Etymology._
+
+The question has been recently much discussed whether our forests
+ought to be retained in their present extent. Economists have shown
+by calculation that forests do not pay. It is said that they encourage
+idleness and poaching, and thus lead to crime. Estimates have been made
+of the amount of corn which might be raised if the soil were brought
+under the plough. Yet few persons who have wandered through the glades
+of our glorious woodlands would be willing to part with them. Admit that
+the cost of maintenance is in excess of their return to the national
+exchequer; yet England is rich enough to bear the loss; and it is a poor
+economy which reduces everything to a pecuniary estimate. "Man shall
+not live by bread alone." In God's world beauty has its place as well as
+utility. "Consider the lilies."
+
+     "God might have made enough--enough
+     For every want of ours,
+     For temperance, medicine, and use,
+     And yet have made no flowers."
+
+"He hath made everything beautiful in his time;" and means that we
+should rejoice in His works as well as feed upon His bounty and learn
+from His wisdom. While by no means insensible to the charm of a richly
+cultivated district, where "the pastures are clothed with flocks, the
+valleys also are covered over with corn," yet let us trust that the day
+is far distant when our few remaining forests shall have disappeared
+before modern improvements and scientific husbandry.
+
+To the lover of nature, forest scenery is beautiful at all seasons.
+How pleasant is it, in the hot summer noon, to lie beneath the "leafy
+screen," through which the sunlight flickers like golden rain; to watch
+the multitudenous life around us--the squirrel flashing from bough to
+bough, the rabbit darting past with quick, jerky movements, the birds
+flitting hither and thither in busy idleness, the columns of insects
+in ceaseless, aimless gliding motion--and to listen to the mysterious
+undertone of sound which pervades rather than disturbs the silence!
+Beautiful, too, are the woods when autumn has touched their greenery
+with its own variety of hue. From the old Speech House of the Forest
+of Dean we have looked out as on a billowy, far extending sea of
+glory--elm, oak, beech, ash, maple, all with their own peculiar tints,
+yet blending into one harmonious chord of colour in the light of the
+westering sun; whilst from among them the holly and the yew stood out
+like green islands set in an ocean of gold.
+
+A little later in the year, and we tread among the rustling leaves,
+whilst over us interlaces in intricate tracery a network of branches,
+twigs, and sprays:--
+
+     "The ruined choirs where late the sweet birds sang."
+
+Return a few weeks afterwards, and surely it will be felt that forest
+scenery is never more fairy-like than when the bare boughs are feathered
+with snowflakes, or sparkle with icicles, that flash like diamonds in
+the wintry sunlight, or faintly tinkle overhead as they sway to and fro
+in the icy breeze. Never is the forest more solemn than when, with a
+sound like thunder or the raging sea, the wind tosses the giant branches
+in wild commotion. We cannot wonder that Schiller delighted to wander
+alone in the stormy midnight through the woods, listening to the tempest
+which raged aloft, or that much of his grandest poetry was composed amid
+scenes like these.
+
+Nor must we forget the aspect of the woods in early spring, when Nature
+is just awaking from her winter's sleep. It needs a quick eye to trace
+the delicate shades of colour which then succeed each other--the dull
+brown first brightening into a reddish hue, as the glossy leaf-cases
+begin to expand, then a faint hint of tender green as the pale leaves
+burst from their enclosure one after another, tinging with colour the
+skeleton branches which they are soon to clothe with their beautiful
+mantle.
+
+     "Mysterious round! What skill, what force divine,
+     Deep felt, in these appear! A simple train,
+     Yet so delightful, mixed with such kind art,
+     Such beauty and beneficence combined,
+     Shade unperceived so softening into shade.
+     And all so forming an harmonious whole,
+     That, as they still succeed, they ravish still."
+
+The New Forest claims precedence over all others, from its extent, its
+picturesque beauty, and its historical associations. Though greatly
+encroached upon since the time that the Conqueror "loved its red deer as
+if he were their father," and the Red King fell beneath the arrow of Sir
+Walter Tyrrell, it still contains long stretches of wild moorland,
+and mighty oaks which may have been venerable in the days of the
+Plantagenets. The red deer have entirely disappeared. About a hundred
+fallow-deer yet remain. They are very shy, hiding themselves in the
+least visited recesses of the Forest, and are rarely seen except during
+the annual hunt, which takes place every spring. In 1874 a pack of
+bloodhounds was brought down by Lord Londesborough, who owns a beautiful
+park near Lyndhurst. The sport, however, is said not to have been very
+good. Numerous droves of forest ponies run wild, and with the herds
+of swine feeding upon the acorns and beech-mast give animation to the
+scene. Amid the forest glades even pigs become picturesque.
+
+Charming excursions may be made into the Forest from the towns on its
+borders, Southampton, Lymington, Christchurch, or Ringwood. But he
+who would fully appreciate its beauties must take up his quarters at
+Lyndhurst, in the very heart of its finest scenery. From this centre,
+walks or drives may be taken in every direction, and in almost endless
+variety. One of these, describing a circuit of about twelve miles, past
+the Rufus Stone and Boldrewood, claims especial mention. The road leads
+for a short distance through a richly-wooded and highly cultivated
+district. On a knoll to the left is a farm-house occupying the site
+of the Keep of Malwood, where William Rufus slept the night before his
+death. From this point vistas, locally known as "peeps," are cut
+through the trees, commanding noble views over the Forest, and extending
+southwards to Southampton Water, the Channel and the Isle of Wight. The
+soil now becomes more barren, and the trees more sparse and stunted. At
+the bottom of a steep descent stood a pyramidal stone, marking the spot
+where the king was slain, bearing on its three sides a record of the
+event. This has now been cased by an iron cylinder, with the original
+inscriptions in bold relief. To the left stretches a long bare ridge of
+moorland, from the summit of which the eye ranges over grand sweeps
+of fern, gorse, and heather, bounded by woodlands to the verge of the
+horizon.
+
+[Illustration: 0068]
+
+The road now passes through a succession of forest glades, over
+smooth green turf, beneath arches of beech and oak, with a luxuriant
+undergrowth of holly and yew. At Burley Lodge we reach some of the
+finest and oldest timber in the Forest. Here formerly stood twelve
+magnificent oaks, known as the "Twelve Apostles." Most of these have,
+disappeared, but two yet remain, which for size, beauty, and venerable
+antiquity are perhaps unequalled. A little farther on, a grove of
+beeches arrests the traveller by the grandeur and beauty of their forms,
+and is a favourite halting-place. Enthusiastic lovers of sylvan scenery,
+artists and others, not infrequently encamp here for days together,
+screened from wind and weather not only by the canvas of their tent,
+but by the impenetrable roof of foliage overhead. Bearing to the south,
+along an intricate labyrinth of woodpaths, through modern plantations
+alternated with clumps of primeval forest, we reach& the cultivated
+district, with smiling farms, stately mansions, and picturesque
+villages, returning thus to Lyndhurst.
+
+[Illustration: 0069]
+
+Before we bid a regretful adieu to this little forest town, we must by
+all means visit the new church. The noble fresco of the Ten Virgins by
+Leighton which forms the altar-piece, is understood to be the munificent
+gift of the artist. The look of sullen or of wild despair on the faces
+of the foolish virgins as they are rejected, and the expression of
+sternness blended with pity in that of the angel who repels them, may
+well awaken solemn thought:
+
+     "Too late! too late! ye cannot enter now!"
+
+[Illustration: 0070]
+
+The Forest of Dean, though less extensive than the New Forest, is hardly
+less beautiful;--
+
+     "The queen of forests all that west of Severn lie."--_Drayton_.
+
+It occupies the high ground between the valleys of the Severn and the
+Wye. What Lyndhurst is to the one, the Speech House is to the other.
+The Foresters' Courts have been held here for centuries, in a large
+hall panelled with dark oak and hung round with deer's antlers. Here the
+"verderers," foresters, "gavellers," miners, and Crown agents meet
+to discuss in open court their various claims in a sort of local
+parliament. Originally the King's Lodge, it is now a comfortable inn,
+affording good accommodation for the lovers of sylvan scenery. The deer
+with which the forest once abounded diminished in numbers up to 1850,
+when they were removed. But, as in the New Forest, droves of ponies
+and herds of swine roam at large among the trees, giving animation and
+interest to the landscape. A different feeling is aroused by the sight
+of furnaces and coal-pits in different directions, indicative of the
+mineral treasures hidden beneath the fair surface of this forest.
+Ironworks have in fact existed here from very early times; the
+forest-trees having, as in the Weald of Sussex, afforded an abundant
+supply of fuel, though (thanks to the coal-beds beneath) without the
+same result in denuding the district of its leafy glories.
+
+Savernake Forest, in Wiltshire, the property of the Marquis of
+Ailesbury, is the only English forest belonging to a subject, and is
+especially remarkable for its avenues of trees. One, of magnificent
+beeches, is nearly four miles in length, and is intersected at one point
+of its course by three separate "walks" or forest vistas, placed at such
+angles as with the avenue itself to command eight points of the compass.
+The effect is unique and beautiful, the artificial character of the
+arrangement being amply compensated by the exceeding luxuriance of the
+thick-set trees, and the soft loveliness of the verdant flowery
+glades which they enclose. The smooth bright foliage of the beech is
+interspersed with the darker shade of the fir, while towering elms and
+majestic wide-spreading oaks diversify the line of view in endless,
+beautiful variety. At one point, a clump of trees will be reached--the
+veterans of the forest, with moss-clad trunks and gnarled half-leafless
+branches; the chief being known as the King Oak, but sometimes called
+the Duke's, from the Lord Protector Somerset, with whom this tree was
+a favourite. The railway from Hungerford to Marlborough skirts this
+forest, the southern portion of which is known as Tottenham Park. An
+obelisk, erected on one of its highest points, in 1781, to commemorate
+the recovery of George III., forms an easily-recognisable landmark,
+and may also guide the wanderer in the forest glades, who might else be
+bewildered by the very uniformity of the lone lines of foliage. On the
+whole, if this Forest of Savernake has not the vast extent, or the wild
+natural beauty of some other forests, it has all the charm that the
+richest luxuriance can give, while some of its noblest I trees will be
+found away from the great avenues, on the gentle slopes or in the mossy
+dells, which diversify the surface of this most beautiful domain. Nor
+will the visitor in spring-time fail to be delighted by the great banks
+of rhododendron and azalea, which at many parts add colour and splendour
+to the scene.
+
+Among our smaller woodlands, Burnham Beeches claim special notice. They
+are reached by a charming drive of five or six miles from Maidenhead.
+The road leads at first through one of the most highly cultivated and
+fertile districts in England, and then enters Dropmore Park, with its
+stately avenues of cedar and pine, and some of the finest araucarias
+in Europe. The Beeches occupy a knoll which rises from the plain, over
+which it commands splendid views, Windsor Castle and the valley of the
+Thames being conspicuous objects in the landscape. The trees are many
+of them of immense girth; but having been pollarded--tradition says by
+Cromwell's troopers--they do not attain a great height. They are thus
+wanting in the feathery grace and sweep which form the characteristic
+beauty of the beech; but, in exchange for this, the gnarled, twisted
+branches are in the very highest degree picturesque, and to the wearied
+Londoner few ways of spending a summer's day can be more enjoyable than
+a ramble over the Burnham Knoll, with its turfy slopes and shaded dells,
+or better still, a picnic with some chosen friends in the shadow of one
+or other of these stupendous trees.
+
+[Illustration: 0072]
+
+Space will not allow us to do more than refer to the forests of Epping
+and Hainault, Sherwood and Charnwood, Whittlebury and Delamere, with
+many others. The names recal the memories of happy days spent beneath
+their leafy screen, or in wandering over the wild moorlands on which
+they stand, with grateful thoughts, too, of--
+
+                        "That unwearied love
+     Which planned and built, and still upholds this world,
+     So clothed with beauty for rebellious man."
+
+
+
+
+SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY
+
+[Illustration: 0074]
+
+[Illustration: 0075]
+
+|THE traveller who would enter into the full charm of "Shakspere's
+country" is recommended to start from the quaint and ancient city of
+Coventry, and to pursue the high road to Warwick, taking Kenilworth in
+his way. There is scarcely a walk in England more perfect in its own
+kind of beauty than the five miles from Coventry to Kenilworth. A wide,
+well-kept road follows, almost in a straight line, the undulations
+of the hills. Soon after leaving the city, a broad, flower-enamelled
+coppice, open to the road, is reached; then the hedgerows are flanked
+on both sides with noble elms, forming a stately avenue, through which
+glimpses are ever and anon obtained of purple wood-crested hills in
+the distance. Broad rolling pastures, and cornfields, rich in promise,
+stretch away on either hand; the grassy road-side and high hedge-banks,
+showing the deep red subsoil of the sandstone, or variegated clays of
+the red marls, are bright with wild flowers, and the air is musical
+with the song of birds. Travellers are few; the railway scream in the
+distance, to the left, suggests that all who are in a hurry to reach
+their destination have taken another route; if it be holiday time,
+parties of young men on Coventry bicycles are sure to flash past; but
+it is our delight to linger and enjoy. We are, as Thomas Fuller says,
+in the "Medi-terranean" part of England; and English scenery nowhere
+displays a more characteristic charm.
+
+[Illustration: 0076]
+
+Kenilworth old church and the castle at length are reached; the latter,
+a stately ruin. The visitor will duly note Cæsar's Tower, the original
+keep, with its walls, in some parts, sixteen feet thick; then the
+remains of the magnificent banqueting hall, built by John of Gaunt,
+and, lastly, the dilapidated towers erected by Robert Dudley, Earl of
+Leicester, one part of which bears the name of poor Amy Robsart. No
+officious cicerone is likely to offer his services; a trifling gate-fee
+opens the place freely to all, either to rest on the greensward, or to
+climb the battered ramparts; to survey, at one view, the ancient moat,
+the castle garden, the tilt-yard, where knights met in mimic battle;
+the bed of the lake, where sea-fights were imitated for a monarch's
+sport--in short, the impressive memorials of a fashion in life and act
+that have long since yielded to nobler things. "The massy ruins," says
+Sir Walter Scott, "only serve to show what their splendour once was,
+and to impress on the musing visitor the transitory value of human
+possessions, and the happiness of those who enjoy a humble lot in
+industrious contentment." There are other lessons, too, national,
+as well as individual; and we turn away from old Kenilworth with
+thankfulness that the ruins of the nineteenth century will at least tell
+to our descendants no tales of feudal tyranny, of royal murders, or of
+sanguinary civil strife.
+
+[Illustration: 0078]
+
+The town of Kenilworth is of considerable size, containing, at the last
+census, more than 3,000 inhabitants. The traveller may rest here, or in
+a quaint little hostelry close to the castle gates, not forgetting to
+visit the ancient church--that at the other end of the town is modern,
+and need not detain him. After due refreshment, he will probably be in
+the humour for another five miles' walk, or drive, along a road almost
+equal in beauty to that by which he came, to Warwick, calling at Guy's
+Cliff by the way. He had better make up his mind, for the time at least,
+to believe in Guy, "the Saxon giant who slew the dun cow," and, after a
+life of doughty deeds, retired to a hermitage, here where the Avon opens
+into a lake-like transparent pool, at the foot of the exquisitely-wooded
+cliff. The cave of the giant's retreat may be seen; and the traveller
+will be charmed by the fair mansion on the one side overhanging the
+Avon, and on the other opening down a long avenue, flowery and verdant,
+to the high road.
+
+[Illustration: 0079]
+
+Warwick Castle is so frequently visited, that it needs little
+description. The winding road, cut out of the solid rock from the
+lodge to the castle gate, is a fitting approach to the stately
+fortress-palace, and well prepares the visitor for what is to follow.
+Some will prefer to roam the gardens, so far as watchful custodians
+permit, turning aside to the solid-looking Gothic conservatory to see
+the great Warwick vase, brought from fair Tivoli; others will follow the
+courteous housekeeper down the long suite of castle halls, poting the
+glorious views from the deep embayed windows, duly admiring the bed in
+which Queen Anne once slept, with the portrait of her majesty, plump and
+rubicund, on the opposite wall. The logs heaped up, as logs have been
+for centuries, in readiness for the great hall-fire, carry the mind
+back to olden fashions; the inlaid table of precious stones, said to be
+"worth" ten thousand pounds, excites a languid curiosity; the helmet
+of Oliver Cromwell, an authentic relic, suggests many a thought of
+the great brain which it once enclosed; and, while other items in the
+antique show pass as phantasmagoria before the bewildered attention,
+there are some portraits on the walls, to have seen which is a lasting
+pleasure of memory. It is a happy thing that these were spared by the
+fire of 1871; justly counted as a national calamity rather than a
+family misfortune. The traces of the conflagration are now almost wholly
+removed, although some priceless treasures have been irrecoverably lost.
+
+[Illustration: 0080]
+
+At the lodge, by the castle gate, there is a museum of curiosities,
+which will interest the believers in the great "Guy," and will amuse
+others. For there is the giant's "porridge pot" of bell-metal, vast in
+circumference and resonant in ring; with his staff, his horse's armour,
+and, to crown all, some ribs of the "dun cow" herself! What if, in sober
+truth, some last lingerer of a species now extinct roamed over the
+great forest of Arden, the terror of the country, until Sir Guy wrought
+deliverance?
+
+Warwick itself need not detain us long; the church, however, demands
+a visit; and the Beauchamp Chapel, with its monuments, is one of the
+finest in England. But the pedestrian will probably elect to spend the
+night at Leamington, close by, before continuing his pilgrimage. A visit
+to the ever beautiful Jephson Gardens, with their wealth of evergreen
+oaks, soft turfy lawn, and broad fair water, will afford him a
+pleasant evening, and the next morning will see him _en route_ for
+Stratford-upon-Avon.
+
+[Illustration: 8081]
+
+Again let him take the road, drinking in the influence of the pleasant
+Warwickshire scene; quiet, rural loveliness varying with every mile, and
+glimpses of the silver Avon at intervals enhancing the charm. A slight
+détour will lead to Hampton Lucy, and Charlecote House and Park,
+memorable for the exploits of Shakspere's youth, and for the worshipful
+dignity of Sir Thomas Lucy, the presumed original of Mr. Justice
+Shallow. The park having been skirted, or crossed, the tourist
+proceeds three or four miles further by a good road, and enters
+Stratford-upon-Avon by a stone bridge of great length, crossing the Avon
+and adjacent low-lying meadows.
+
+The bridge, which dates from the reign of Henry VII., has been widened
+on an ingenious plan, by a footpath, supported on a kind of iron
+balcony.
+
+It is easy, however, to imagine its exact appearance when Shakspere
+paced its narrow roadway, or hung over its parapet to watch the skimming
+swallow or the darting trout and minnow.
+
+This Warwickshire town has been so often and so exhaustively described,
+that we may well forbear from any minute detail. Every visitor knows,
+with tolerable accuracy, what he has to expect. He finds, as he had
+anticipated, a quiet country town, very much like other towns; neither
+obtrusively modern, nor quaintly antique--in one word, common-place,
+save for the all-pervading presence and memory of Shakspere. The house
+in Henley Street, where he is said to have been born, will be first
+visited, of course; then the tourist will walk along the High Street,
+noting the Shakspere memorials in the shop-windows, looking up as he
+passes to the fine statue of the poet, placed by Garrick in front of the
+Town Hall.
+
+At the site of New Place, now an open, well-kept garden, with here and
+there some of the shattered foundations of the poet's house, protected
+by wire-work, on the greensward, the visitor will add his tribute of
+wonder, if not of contempt, to the twin memories of Sir Hugh Clopton,
+who pulled down Shakspere's house in one generation, and of the Rev.
+Francis Gastrell, who cut down Shakspere's mulberry-tree in another.
+Just opposite are the guild chapel, the guild hall, with the
+grammar-school where the poet, no doubt, received his education; and,
+after some further walking, the extremity of the town will be reached,
+where a little gate opens to a charming avenue of over-arching
+lime-trees, leading to the church.
+
+[Illustration: 0082]
+
+Before he enters, let him pass round to the other side, where the
+churchyard gently slopes to the Avon, and drink in the tranquillity and
+beauty of the rustic scene. Then, after gaining admission, he will go
+straight to the chancel and gaze upon those which, after all, are the
+only memorials of the poet which possess a really satisfying value, the
+monument and the tomb.
+
+[Illustration: 0084]
+
+As all the world knows, the tomb is a dark slab, lying in the chancel,
+the inscription turned to the east. No name is given, only the lines
+here copied from a photograph:
+
+     "Good Frend for Jesvs sake forbeare
+     To DIGG THE DVST ENCLOASED HEAEE:
+     Blest be ye man v'spares thes stones,
+     And cvrst be he yl moves mv bones.
+
+[Illustration: 0085]
+
+To suppose these lines written by Shakspere himself, seems absurd.
+They are not, indeed, the only doggrel unjustly fathered upon him. The
+prostrate figure on a tomb in the east wall of the chancel, representing
+Shakspere's contemporary and intimate, John-a-Combe, suggests another
+stanza, even inferior in taste and diction. But we have no room now
+for such thoughts. Above us, on the left, is the monument of the poet,
+coloured;  not content with "improving" the plays, caused the bust
+also to be improved by a coating of white paint, how the barbarism was
+removed in 1861, and the statue restored, is a tale often told. The
+effigy certainly existed within seven years of Shakspere's death, so
+that, in all probability, we have a faithful representation of the poet
+as his contemporaries knew him.
+
+[Illustration: 9086]
+
+The inscription is clumsy enough, but proves that the poet's greatness
+was not, as sometimes alleged, unrecognised in his own generation. The
+epitaph on Mistress Susanna Hall, a higher note. Thus it began
+
+     "Witty above her sex--but that's not all--
+     Wise to salvation, was good Mistress Hall.
+     Something of Shakspere was in that; but this
+     Wholly of Him with Whom she's now in bliss."
+
+It is to be regretted that this inscription has been effaced, to make
+room for the epitaph of some obscure descendant. That to Shakespere's
+widow, the wife of his youth, Anne Hathaway however remains placed over
+Her grave by her son; there is something in it pathetically and nobly
+Christian. It is in Latin, and may be rendered freely: "My mother: thou
+gavest me milk and life: alas, for me, that I can but repay thee with a
+sepulchre! Would that some good angel might roll the stone away, and
+thy form come forth in the Saviour's likeness! But my prayers avail not.
+Come quickly, O Christ! then shall my mother, though enclosed in the
+tomb, arise and mount to heaven!"
+
+Before leaving the church we may note some monuments worth attention,
+at least in any other place; as well as a stained glass window, not yet
+complete, but intended to illustrate from Scripture Shakspere's Seven
+Ages of Man. Moses the infant, Jacob the lover, Deborah the Judge, and
+one or two other representations are finished, but the observer feels
+that the types of character are not Shakspere's.
+
+The day's explorations are not yet over. The epitaph on Anne Hathaway's
+tomb, if nothing else, has quickened our desire to know something more
+of her surroundings in those days when Shakspere won and wooed her in
+her rustic home. Retracing our steps through the town, we are directed
+to a field-path bearing straight for Shottery, a village but a mile
+distant. It is not difficult to picture the youthful lover, perhaps,
+out here in the fair open country, among the wild flowers which line the
+walk, and which he has so well described, for there are few traditions
+of Stratford-upon-Avon better authenticated than that which represents
+this as Shakspere's walk in the clays when he "went courting." The
+village is a straggling one, with a look of comfort about its farmsteads
+and cottages; and, at the furthest extremity from Stratford, in a
+pleasant dell, opposite a willow-shaded stream, we find the cottage,
+not much altered, it may be, in externals, since the poet, then a lad of
+eighteen, there found his bride. The capacious chimney-corner, where
+no doubt the lovers sat, is genuine; and other antique relics, from a
+carved bed to an old Bible, carry the mind back, at least, to the era
+of the poet; while the garden and orchard, with the well of pure spring
+water, must be much as Shakspere saw them.
+
+And now having returned to our comfortable hotel--where almost every
+room, by the way, is named after one of the dramas, ours being "All's
+well that ends well"--what was the net result of the visit in regard
+to the personality and history of the great poet? It may seem a strange
+thing to confess, but the effect of the whole was to put Shakspere
+himself further from us, and to deepen the mystery which every student
+of his life and works finds so perplexing. For, save the monument and
+the tomb, there was absolutely nothing to tell of the poet's life;
+no scrap of his writing, no book known to have been his, no original
+authentic record of his words and deeds, no contemporary portrait, no
+object, whether article of furniture, pen, inkstand, or other implement
+of daily use, associated with his name. Strange that a generation,
+which, as we have seen, so honoured his genius and character, should not
+have preserved the poorest or smallest memorial of his life among them!
+True, there is an old, worm-eaten desk in the birth-place, at which he
+may have, sat in the grammar-school; in a room in the town above the
+seed-shop there is a rude piece of carving, representing David and
+Goliath, which once ornamented a room of the house in Henley Street, and
+bears an inscription, "said to have been composed by Shakspere," A.D.
+1606. Let our readers judge:
+
+     "Goliath comes with sword and spear,
+     And David with his sling:
+     Although Goliath rage and swear
+     Down David doth him bring."
+
+For the rest, the relics are evidently imported: an ancient bedstead,
+old-fashioned chairs, and the like; interesting in their way, but
+with nothing to tell us of the poet. He remains to the most zealous
+relic-hunter as great a mystery as Homer himself. Or if in anything here
+we see the poet, it is in those scenes of external nature which he has
+so vividly pictured. We find him among the flowers: beside the
+
+         "bank whereon the wild thyme blows,
+     Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows,
+     Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,
+     With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine."
+
+[Illustration: 0089]
+
+By a happy ingenuity the garden of the house in Henley Street, now
+prettily and daintily kept, has been planted to a great extent
+with Shakspere's flowers; "pansies for thoughts," "rosemary for
+remembrance," with "columbines," the "blue-veined violets," the wild
+thyme, woodbine, musk-rose, and many more. His works are his true
+monument; and of these there is, in the same house, a very large and
+noble collection, with a whole library of literature bearing upon them,
+gathered with admirable care. Yet how few autobiographical details do
+the volumes contain! How hopeless the task of constructing, even from
+the sonnets, a connected picture of his life and career! And of the
+half-dozen anecdotes which have in one way or other descended to us of
+his words and ways, who can say that any detail is true?
+
+[Illustration: 9090]
+
+It is, perhaps, from the portraits, after all, that we may gain the most
+trustworthy impression of the poet's individuality. That on the tomb is
+for obvious reasons the most valuable. There it has been, in the sight
+of all men, from the very days of Shakspere. The eyes of his widow and
+of their children must often have rested upon it; and there can be no
+doubt that it presents the true aspect of the man. The engravings of
+the bust, and even the photographs, seem to us to exaggerate the calm,
+serene expression of the countenance. Partly, it may be, from the effect
+of the colouring on the full and shapely cheeks, there is an air almost
+of joviality about the face. It is quite as easy to recognise the
+Warwickshire squire of New Place, as to feel the presence of the poet
+of all time. There is, in the Henley Street house, a portrait of
+extraordinary history; lately discovered. The antiquity of this portrait
+seems indubitable; but the face seems a copy, and, so far as we could
+judge without seeing the two side by side, of that on the monument.
+For the we naturally associate with Shakspere, we must go rather to
+the "Chandos portrait," now in the National Portrait Gallery, or to the
+terra-cotta bust, disinterred in 1845, from the site of the old theatre
+in Lincoln's Inn Fields, and presented by the Duke of Devonshire to
+the Garrick Club. In a somewhat rough fashion, the Droeshout portrait,
+prefixed to the first folio edition of the plays, in 1623, gives
+a similar impression of power; and Ben Jonson, who knew Shakspere
+personally, testifies strongly to its correctness:
+
+     "This figure that thou here seest put,
+     It was for gentle Shakspere cut;
+     Wherein the graver had a strife
+     With Nature, to outdo the Life."
+
+But most of all is the greatness of Shakspere brought home to us by the
+simple record of the names of those who, from all quarters of the world,
+have come to this little Warwickshire town, to do homage to his memory.
+In all the world there is no shrine of pilgrimage like this, not only
+in the number of the visitants, but in their wonderful variety in
+character, temperament, and belief.
+
+[Illustration: 9091]
+
+The power of the spell shows the magician. The fading pencilled
+inscriptions which cover the walls of the chamber in Henley Street; the
+pages of the autograph books; the words in which visitors have recorded
+their impressions, attest the strange attractiveness and power of this
+one genius. Perhaps the most interesting of the autograph books is that
+which was removed from the house in Henley Street many years ago, and is
+now to be seen in the room over the seed-room, to which we have referred
+already. It seems to have been purchased and presented by an American
+gentleman, Mr. T. H. Perkins, of Boston, in 1812; and its pages contain
+the autographs of Sir Walter Scott, Lord Byron, Miss Edge-a Baillie,
+James Professors Sedgarence," "Arthur, Duke of Wellington," with a host
+beside. A thoughtful hour may well be spent in turning the well-worn
+pages, and in meditating on "the vanity and glory of literature."
+
+For there was one point in which even Shakspere failed, and the admiring
+reverence with which we join the throng of pilgrims to the shrine never
+passes into _worship_. We mean, of course, such "worship" as a
+merely human being may supposably claim; and, in view of the highest
+possibilities of our nature, we mark in Shakspere a certain limitation
+on the _heavenward_ side of his genius. The point at which intellectual
+sympathy and admiring affection pass into adoration, is the point
+at which we are raised _beyond ourselves_, and made conscious of the
+infinite. Never will our moral nature consent to unite with our reason
+and our heart in yielding its deepest worth, reverence, until it is
+uplifted into that sphere in which we can only walk by faith, and from
+which we can look down upon earthly things dwarfed and humbled by the
+comparison with the illimitable beyond.
+
+Now Shakspere's genius belongs essentially to the lower sphere. On
+earth he is the master. Every phase of nature, every subtilty of the
+intellect, every winding of the heart, is familiar to him. To use
+the comparison, often repeated because always felt to be so true, his
+wonderful mind was the mirror of all earthly shapes and various human
+energies. His own idiosyncracy never appears; the mirror is absolutely
+colourless and true. His genius is universal: in reading him we are but
+surveying the face of nature. To many a subtle criticism, the answer has
+been given, Shakspere surely never meant this! The reply may be, perhaps
+not, but nature meant it; and, therefore, we have a right to find it
+there! Such is the highest achievement of _literature_, whose business
+it is to reflect the facts of the world, of society, of the human
+heart--plentifully to declare the thing as it is, and compendiously
+to reduce this round world into the microcosm of a book. Here is
+Shakspere's transcendent power, and the secret of his supremacy among
+writers. He is simply the greatest literary man that ever lived.
+The transparency of the mirror, to return to the illustration, is
+maintained, not only by the absence of intrusive individuality, but by
+his perfect mastery over the instrument of expression. It is worth while
+to read his dramas over again, as a study of language alone. No writer
+has ever approached Shakspere in the precision, picturesqueness, and the
+finished, yet seemingly careless, beauty of his diction. His prose is
+even more marvellous than his poetry. In the sense in which we use the
+word "classic," his works may truly be called the foremost classic of
+the world.
+
+What, then, is the defect which will for ever prevent Shakspere from
+receiving the entire homage of the heart of man? In a sentence, the
+mirror is turned towards earth alone, and in its very completeness hides
+heaven from the view. "It would be impossible," says a contemporary
+writer, "to find a more remarkable example of a genius wide as the
+world, yet _not_ in any sense _above_ the world, than our great English
+poet's." And again, "it would be almost impossible to find any great
+Christian poet whose type of imagination is so entirely and singularly
+_contrasted_ with that of the Bible, or in whom that peculiar faculty
+which, for want of a better term, we are forced to call the thirst _for
+the supernatural_, is more remarkably absent."
+
+This statement we accept, in full remembrance of the morals manifold,
+the theological references, and Scriptural parallels, which are
+scattered through the poet's writings. Bishop Wordsworth, of
+St. Andrew's, and others, have spent much labour, not altogether
+unprofitably, in showing that Shakspere knew his Bible: while, oddly
+enough, among the passages expunged by the estimable Bowdler, the
+Biblical references occupy a considerable place, as though it had been
+profanity to introduce them in such a connexion! The most is made of
+Shakspere's religiousness by the present Archbishop of Dublin, in a
+sermon preached at Stratford-upon-Avon at the Shakspere Tercentenary, in
+1864.
+
+He knew the deep corruption of our fallen nature, the desperate
+wickedness of the heart of man; else he would never have put into the
+mouth of a prince of stainless life such a confession as this: 'I am
+myself indifferently honest: but yet I could accuse one of such things
+that it were better my mother had not borne me.... with more offences
+at my beck than I have thoughts to put them in, imagination to give
+them shape, or time to act them in.' He has set forth the scheme of
+our redemption in words as lovely as have ever flowed from the lips of
+uninspired man:--
+
+     'Why, all the souls that live were forfeit once,
+     And He that might the vantage best  have Look,
+     Found out the remedy.'
+
+He has put home to the holiest here their need of an infinite
+forgiveness from Him who requires truth in the inward parts:
+
+     'How would you be,
+     If He, which is the top of judgment, should
+     But judge you as you are?'
+
+"He was one who was well aware what a stewardship was his own in those
+marvellous gifts which had been entrusted to him, for he has himself
+told us:--
+
+     'Heaven does with us as we with torches do,
+     Not light them for themselves: for if our virtues
+     Did not go forth of us,'twere all alike
+     As if we had them not.'
+
+And again he has told us that
+
+     'Spirits are not finely touched
+     But for fine issues:'
+
+Assuredly not ignorant how finely his own had been touched, and what
+would be demanded from him in return. He was one who certainly knew that
+there is none so wise that he can 'circumvent God;' and that for a man,
+whether he be called early or late,
+
+     'Ripeness is all.'
+
+Who shall persuade us that he abode outside of that holy temple of our
+faith, whereof he has uttered such glorious things--admiring its beauty,
+but not himself entering to worship there?
+
+To the same effect, we may quote the preliminary sentence of Shakspere's
+will: "I commend my soul into the hands of God, my Creator, hoping,
+and assuredly believing, through the only merits of Jesus Christ, my
+Saviour, to be made partaker of life everlasting." With such a master of
+words, this avowal would be no mere formality. During Shakspere's last
+residence at Stratford, moreover, the town was under strong religious
+influences. Many a "great man in Israel," in fraternal visits to
+the Rev. Richard Byfield, the vicar, is said to have been hospitably
+entertained at New Place; and memorable evenings must have been spent in
+converse on the highest themes. In addition to all this, the following
+sonnet furnishes an interesting proof that the heart of Shakspere, at an
+earlier period, had not been unsusceptible to religious sentiments and
+aspirations:--
+
+     "Poor soul, the centre of my sinful earth,
+     Fooled by those rebel powers that thee array,
+     Why dost thou pine within, and suffer dearth,
+     Painting thy outward walls so costly gay?
+     Why so large cost, having so short a lease,
+     Dost thou upon thy fading mansion spend?
+     Shall worms, inheritors of thine excess,
+     Eat up thy charge? Is this thy body's end?
+     Then, soul, live thou upon thy body's loss,
+     And let that pine to aggravate thy store;
+     Buy terms divine in selling hours of dross;
+     Within be fed, without be rich no more:
+     So shalt thou feed on death, that feeds on men,
+     And, death once dead, there's no more dying then."
+     --_Sonnet_  146.
+
+All that such words suggest we gladly admit among the probabilities
+of Shakspere's unknown life. But in his dramas themselves we find no
+assured grasp of the highest spiritual truth, nothing to show that such
+truth controlled his views of life with imperial sway; little or
+nothing to uplift the reader from the play of human passions and the
+entanglement of human interests to the higher realms of Faith. It is
+the same Shakspere who reveals the depths of human corruption, and the
+nobleness of human excellence. But in portraying the latter, he stops
+short, and fails exactly where the higher light of faith would
+have enabled him to complete the delineation. His best and greatest
+characters are a law unto themselves: his men are passionate and strong;
+his women are beautiful, with a loveliness that scarcely ever reminds us
+of heaven: he has neither "raised the mortal to the skies," nor "brought
+the angel down."
+
+We turn, then, from Stratford-upon-Avon, feeling, as we have said,
+more deeply than ever the mystery that overhangs the career of the man,
+admiring, if possible, more heartily than ever the genius of the poet,
+and acknowledging, not without mournfulness, how much greater Shakspere
+might have been. For there was an inspiration within his reach that
+would have made him chief among the witnesses of God to men; and his
+magnificent endowments would then have been the richest offering ever
+placed by human hand upon that Altar which "sanctifieth both the giver
+and the gift."
+
+
+
+
+THE COUNTRY OF BUNYAN AND COWPER.
+
+[Illustration: 0096]
+
+[Illustration: 0097]
+
+|SOME of the most characteristic excursions through the gently
+undulating rural scenery which distinguishes so large a portion of the
+south midland district of England may be made along the towing-paths of
+the canals. The notion may appear unromantic; the pathway is artificial,
+yet it has now become rusticated and fringed with various verdure; some
+of the associations of the canal are anything but attractive--but upon
+the whole the charm is great. A wide, level path, driven straight across
+smiling valleys and by the side of hills, here and there skirting a fair
+park, and occasionally bringing some broad open landscape into
+sudden view, with the gleam and coolness of still waters ever at the
+traveller's side, affords him a succession of pictures which perhaps the
+"strong climber of the mountain's side" may disdain, but which to many
+will be all the more delightful, because they can be enjoyed with no
+more fatigue than that of a leisurely, health-giving stroll.
+
+It was by such a walk as this through some of the pleasantest parts
+of Hertfordshire that we first made our way to Berkhampstead--the
+birthplace of William Cowper, turning from the canal bank to the
+embowered fragments of the castle, and through the quiet little town to
+the "public way,"--the pretty rural bye-road where the "gardener Robin"
+drew his little master to school:
+
+     "Delighted with the bauble coach, and wrapped
+     In scarlet mantle warm, and velvet capped,"
+
+while the fond mother watched her darling from the "nursery window," the
+memory of which one pathetic poem has made immortal.
+
+In a well-known sentence, Lord Macaulay affirms in reference to the
+seventeenth century, "We are not afraid to say, that though there were
+many clever men in England during the latter half of that century, there
+were only two minds which possessed the imaginative faculty in a very
+eminent degree. One of these minds produced the _Paradise Lost_; the
+other, the _Pilgrim's Progress_." Similarly, with regard to the brilliant
+literary period which began towards the close of the eighteenth century,
+"we are not afraid to say," that although there were many poets in
+England of no mean order, there were but two to whom it was given to
+view nature simply and sincerely, so as adequately to express "the
+delight of man in the works of God." One of these poets produced the
+_Task_, the other the _Exclusion_.
+
+[Illustration: 0098]
+
+When Macaulay wrote, the place of Bunyan in literature was still held
+a little doubtful; the place of Cowper among poets is not wholly
+unquestioned now. Some are impatient of his simplicity, others scorn his
+piety, many cannot escape, as they read, from the shadow of the darkness
+in which he wrote. But we cannot doubt that, when the coming reaction
+from feverishness and heathenism in poetry shall have set in, the name
+of Cowper will win increasing honour; men will search for themselves
+into the source of those bright phrases, happy allusions, "jewels five
+words long, that on the stretched forefinger of all time sparkle for
+ever," for which the world is often unconsciously indebted to his
+poems; while his incomparable letters will remain as the finest and
+most brilliant specimens of an art which penny-postage, telegrams, and
+post-cards have rendered almost extinct in England.
+
+No one at any rate will wonder now that we should turn awhile from more
+outwardly striking or enchanting scenes to the ground made classic and
+sacred to the English Christian by the memories of Bunyan and Cowper. We
+may associate their names, not only from their brotherhood in faith and
+teaching, but from the coincidence which identifies their respective
+homes with one and the same river, and blends their memories with the
+fair still landscapes through which it steals.
+
+[Illustration: 0099]
+
+The Ouse, most meandering of English streams, waters a country almost
+perfectly level throughout, though here and there fringed by the
+undulations of the receding Chilterns;--with a picturesqueness derived
+from rich meadows, broad pastures with flowery hedgerows, and tall
+stately trees; while in many places the still river expands into a
+miniature lake, with water lilies floating upon its bosom. Among scenes
+like these the great dreamer passed his youth, in his village home at
+Elstow; often visiting the neighbouring town of Bedford, where we may
+picture him as leaning in many a musing fit over the old Ouse Bridge, on
+which the town prison then stood. How little, did John Bunyan then think
+what those prison walls would become to him and to the world! The bridge
+is gone, the town has become a thriving modern bustling place; only the
+river remains, and the country walk to Elstow is little changed. There
+is the cottage which tradition identifies with Bunyan: with the church
+and the belfry, so memorable in the record of his experiences, the
+village green on which in his thoughtless youth he used to play at
+"tip-cat:" there is nothing more to see, but it is impossible to pace
+through those homely ways without remembering how once the place was
+luminous to his awe-stricken spirit with "the light that never was on
+sea or shore," and the landscape on which his inward eye was fixed was
+that which was closed in by the great white throne.
+
+[Illustration: 9100]
+
+It is remarkable that there is in Bunyan's writings so little of
+local colouring. His fields, hills and valleys are not of earth. The
+"wilderness of this world" through which he wandered was something quite
+apart from the Bedfordshire flats, although indeed "the den" on which
+he lighted is but too truthful a representation of the prison on the old
+Ouse Bridge. Even where familiar scenes may have supplied the groundwork
+of the picture, incidental touches show that his soul was beyond
+them. His hillsides are covered with "vineyards;" the meadows by the
+riverside are fair with "lilies;" the fruits in the orchard have mystic
+healing virtue. The scenery of Palestine rather than of Bedfordshire is
+present to his view, and his well-loved Bible has contributed as much
+to his descriptions as any reminiscences of his excursions around his
+native place. *
+
+     * It has recently been argued, with some plausibility, that
+     Bunyan may have derived some of his pictures of scenery from
+     his preaching excursions to the Surrey hills and the Sussex
+     Weald (see pp. 33-35), where he would often cross the track
+     of "the Canterbury pilgrims." "It is said that he frequently
+     selected the hilly districts of South Surrey as his hiding-
+     place; two houses, one on Quarry Hill, Guildford, and the
+     other known as Horn Hatch, on Shalford Common, being pointed
+     out as among those he occupied.".... "The struggles of the
+     pedestrian through the Shalford swamp might have given
+     Bunyan the original idea of the _Slough of Despond_; the
+     Surrey Hills he loved so well might be called the
+     _Delectable Mountains_; St. Martha's Hill would answer
+     perfectly his description of the _Hill Difficulty_; the Vale
+     of Albury, amid the picturesque scenery of which he passed
+     so many days of true humiliation, might be considered the
+     _Valley of Humiliation_; and lastly, the name _Doubting
+     Castle_ actually exists to this day, near the Pilgrims' Way,
+     being approached, as its namesake was supposed lo be, by a
+     path near Box Hill. It is right, however, to state that the
+     antiquity of the last name quoted is not verified."--Notes
+     on the Pilgrims' Way in West Surrey; by Captain E. Renouard
+     James, R.E. Stanford, 1871.
+
+But it was after all in no earthly walks or haunts of men that he found
+the prototypes of his immortal pictures. They are idealised experiences,
+and from the Wicket gate to the Land of Beulah they all represent what
+he had seen and felt only in his soul.* No doubt the people are in
+many cases less abstract. A very remarkable edition of the _Pilgrim's
+Progress_, published some years ago by an artist of rare promise, since
+deceased, portrayed the personages of the allegory in the very guise
+in which Bunyan must often have met their originals up and down in
+Bedfordshire. Such faces may be seen to-day. We ourselves thought we saw
+Mr. Honesty, in a brown coat, looking at some bullocks in the Bedford
+market-place. Ignorance tried to entice us into a theological discussion
+at the little country-side inn where we rested for the night: the next
+morning, as we passed along, Mercy was knitting at a farmhouse door,
+while young Mr. Brisk, driving by in his gig, made her an elaborate bow,
+of which we were glad to see she took the slightest possible notice.
+
+     * The impression made upon a passing traveller through
+     Bunyan's Country is well expressed in some verses entitled
+
+Bedford is now at least rich in memorials of its illustrious citizen and
+prisoner for conscience' sake. The Bunyan Statue, presented by the Duke
+of Bedford, was erected in 1874, and is one of the noblest and most
+characteristic out-of-door monuments in England. It has indeed been
+suggested that Bunyan might more appropriately have been represented
+in the attitude of writing than in that of preaching; but it should be
+remembered that the latter was the work he chose and loved, and that
+his greatest works were penned during the period of enforced silence.
+It is therefore with a fine appropriateness that he is represented as
+standing, as if in the presence of some vast congregation, the Bible
+in his hand, his eyes uplifted to heaven, while upon the pedestal are
+carved his own words, expressive of his own highest ideal.
+
+            "THROUGH BEDFORDSHIRE BY RAIL.
+
+  "Far behind we leave the clangour of the smoky northern town;
+  Now' we hurry through a country all brown-green and sweet grey-brown:
+  Landscapes gently undulating where light shadows softly pass,
+  Quiet rivers silent flowing through the rarely-trodden grass.
+
+  Here and there a few sheep grazing 'neath the hedgerow poplars tall.
+  Here and there a brown-thatched homestead or a rustic cottage small;
+  As we rush on road or iron through the fields on either hand,
+  In the autumn twilight gravely smiles John Bunyan's land.
+
+  More than all the fells and mountains we have passed upon our way,
+  More than e'en that giant city we shall greet ere close of day,
+  Touches us the tender beauty, soft, harmonious, simple, quaint,
+  Of these fields and winding bye-lanes where yet linger, sweet and faint,
+  Echoes of long-vanished ages, rustic homes one might have seen
+  In the old days when John Bunyan played at cat on Elstow Green,
+  Meadows still as when he wandered seeking God; while on each hand,
+  Gravely smiling in the twilight, lay John Bunyan's land.
+
+  Tender as the closing music of the Mighty Dreamer's lay,
+  Lies the country gently round us, all brown-green and soft brown-grey.
+  Tender are our thoughts towards it, as we ponder o'er the book
+  That has travelled through the wide world from this homely, rural nook.
+
+  Tenderly we name John Bunyan, martyr, poet, hero, saint,
+  Faithful pastor, strong and loving, like his Bedford, simple, quaint.
+  Ah! the happy tears half blind us as we gaze on either hand
+  O'er the gravely smiling beauty of John Bunyan's land."--Lizzie Aldridge.
+
+[Illustration: 0102]
+
+No visitor to Bedford will neglect the rapidly accumulating Bunyan
+Museum, comprising not only some simple relics of his lifetime, as
+his staff, jug, and the like, with books bearing his autograph--his
+priceless Bible and Foxes Martyrs--but the various editions of his
+works, and in particular a collection of the illustrations of the
+_Pilgrim's Progress_, from the first rude designs to the latest products
+of artistic skill. These are stored with reverent care, in connexion
+with the place of worship occupied by the Christian Church to which he
+ministered, and now known as Bunyan Meeting. To this edifice, likewise,
+a pair of massive bronze gates have been contributed by the Duke of
+Bedford, with panels illustrative of scenes from the allegory.
+
+[Illustration: 0104]
+
+Altogether, if we have found in the neighbourhood of Bedford no
+Delectable Mountains, nor Valley of Humiliation, nor Land of Beulah,
+we have at least seen much pleasant English scenery, a fertile,
+well-cultivated country, and in the very absence of more outwardly
+exciting prospects, have had the more "leisure of thought" to dwell in
+the ideal world which Bunyan has made as familiar to us as our own home.
+
+[Illustration: 8105]
+
+From Bedford to Olney the distance by rail is between ten and eleven
+miles; by "the sinuous Ouse" probably between thirty and forty.
+
+Few travellers, therefore, will care to ascend by the river banks, and
+the frequent shallows preclude the thought of a boating excursion, which
+otherwise would by its leisurely length be some preparation for our
+exchange of the associations of the seventeenth century for those of the
+eighteenth. One hundred and three years separated the birthday of Bunyan
+from that of Cowper.
+
+The interval marks the greatest advance that had ever been made in the
+history of English thought and freedom. But in the essentials of faith
+and teaching the two men were one; nor in some of their experiences were
+they very dissimilar. Both were sensitive, conscientious, and often in
+the midst of their holiest longings after God were most terror-stricken
+by thoughts of the wrath to come. Some pages of Bunyan's Autobiography
+may compare in their passionate anxiety with the annals of Cowper's
+despair. The great dreamer soon escaped from Doubting Castle to the
+Delectable Mountains; but for the poet, the dungeon bars remained
+unloosed until the final summons came to the everlasting hills. *
+
+     * "From the moment of Cowper's death, till the coffin was
+     closed," writes his friend and relative Mr. Johnson, "the
+     expression with which his countenance had settled was that
+     of calmness and composure, mingled, as it were, with _holy
+     surprise."--Southey's Life._
+
+The sensitiveness of Cowper to external influences was so great, as to
+raise the doubt whether other scenes and a different atmosphere might
+not have prevented many of his sorrows.
+
+[Illustration: 9106]
+
+On the death of his father, when the poet had reached the age of
+twenty-five, he touchingly and expressively tells us that it had never
+till then occurred to him "that a parson has no fee-simple in the house
+and glebe he occupies. There was," he says, "neither tree, nor gate, nor
+stile in all that country to which I did not feel a relation, and the
+house itself I preferred to a palace." To Huntingdon, where he first
+made acquaintance with the Ouse, and became an inmate with the Unwins,
+he clung very lovingly, although he does not rate the charms of the
+neighbourhood very highly. "My lot is cast in a country where we have
+neither woods nor commons nor pleasant prospects: all flat and insipid;
+in the summer adorned only winter covered with a flood." But it was at
+Olney that Cowper found such scenery as he could appreciate and love.
+"He does not," in the words of Sir James Mackintosh, "describe the
+most beautiful scenes in nature; he discovers what is most beautiful in
+ordinary scenes."
+
+[Illustration: 8106]
+
+In fact, Cowper saw very few beautiful scenes, but his poetical eye, and
+his moral heart, detected beauty in the sandy flats of Buckinghamshire."
+The walk, especially, from the quiet little town to the village of
+Weston Underwood, he has made classic among English scenes by the
+description in the first book of the _Task_.
+
+Leaving Olney, where, in truth, there is not much to detain us, save the
+poet's home--the same in outward aspect, at least, as during the twenty
+years spent by him within its walls,--and the summer-house in the garden
+where he sat and wrote, while Mrs. Unwin knitted, and Puss, Tiny, and
+Bess sported upon the grass--we may climb the little eminence above the
+river, and with an admiration like that of the poet ninety years ago,
+"dwell upon the scene." "Here is the "distant plough slow moving," and
+
+[Illustration: 0107]
+
+     "Here Ouse, slow winding through a level plain
+     Of spacious meads, with cattle sprinkled o'er,
+     Conducts the eye along his sinuous course Delighted.
+
+     There, fast rooted in their bank,
+     Stand, never overlooked, our favourite elms.
+     That screen the herdsman's solitary hut;
+     While far beyond, and overthwart the stream,
+     That, as with molten glass, inlays the vale,
+     The sloping land recedes into the clouds;
+     Displaying on its varied side the grace
+     Of hedgerow beauties numberless, square tower,
+     Tall spire, from which the sound of cheerful bells
+     Just undulates upon the listening ear;
+     Groves,  heathes and smoking villages remote."
+
+We are now at the upper corner of the Throckmorton Park. Pursuing our
+way, we listen to the music of "nature inanimate," of rippling brook or
+sighing wind, and of "nature animate," of "ten thousand warblers"
+that so soothed the poet's soul. A dip in the walk from where the elms
+enclose the upper park, and the chestnuts spread their shade, brings us
+into a grassy dell where by "a rustic bridge" we cross to the opposite
+slope, reascend to the "alcove," survey from the "speculative height"
+the pasture with its "fleecy tenants," the "sunburnt hayfield," the
+"woodland scene," the trees, each with its own hue, as so exquisitely
+depicted by the poet, while Ouse in the distance "glitters in the sun."
+At length the great avenue is reached.
+
+     "How airy and how light the graceful arch,
+     Yet awful as the consecrated roof
+     Re-echoing pious anthems! while beneath,
+     The chequered earth seems restless as a flood
+     Brushed by the wind.
+     So sportive is the light
+     Shot through the boughs, it dances as they dance,
+     Shadow and sunshine intermingling quick,
+     And darkening and enlightening, as the leaves
+     Play wanton, every moment, every spot.
+
+[Illustration: 9108]
+
+Such were the scenes dearest to Cowper, and dear to many still for
+his sake. T rue, they are not unlike others. A thousand scenes are
+as beautiful, and many an avenue up and down in English parks is of a
+nobler stateliness. Yet may this be visited with a special delight, for
+its own sake and for Cowper's. It is something to be able to look with
+a poet's eye, to have his thoughts and words so familiar to memory as
+to blend with the current of our own, as if spontaneously. We learn anew
+how to observe, and our emotions become almost unconsciously ennobled
+and refined.
+
+It is characteristic of Cowper's mind that scenery of a loftier and
+more exciting order had a disquieting effect upon him. Of his journey
+to Eastham, in Sussex, to visit his friend Hayley, he writes: "I indeed
+myself was a little daunted by the tremendous height of the Sussex
+hills, in comparison with which all that I had seen elsewhere are dwarfs.
+But I only was alarmed; Mrs. Unwin had no such sensations, but was
+always cheerful from the beginning of our expedition to the end of it."
+And again: "The charms of the place, uncommon as they are, have not in
+the least alienated my affections from Weston. The genius of that
+place, suits me better; it has an air of snug concealment, in which a
+disposition like mine feels peculiarly gratified, whereas here, I
+see from every window woods like forests, and hills like mountains--a
+wildness, in short, that rather increases my natural melancholy." A
+little while before, on Mr. Newton's return from the glories of Cheddar,
+Cowper writes: "I would that I could see some of the mountains which you
+have seen, especially because Dr. Johnson has pronounced that no man is
+qualified to be a poet who has never seen a mountain. But mountains I
+shall never see, unless perhaps in a dream, or unless there are such in
+heaven. Nor those," the poor, heart-stricken poet makes haste to add,
+"unless I receive twice as much mercy as ever yet was shown to any man."
+
+[Illustration: 0109]
+
+The last sentence prepares us for East Dereham, with its sad
+associations. But even from these we need not shrink. The homely Norfolk
+town brought to the troubled soul deliverance. Few, it may be, would
+turn aside to visit the place for its own sake; but the remembrance of
+the poet may well attract. The house in which he died has been replaced
+by a Congregational Church bearing his name--twin brother, so to speak,
+though with scarcely the same appropriateness, to Bunyan Chapel in
+Bedford. But it is in the church where he lies buried, and in the tomb
+raised to his memory, that the true interest lies. Never was death more
+an angel of mercy than to this darkly-shadowed spirit. We all know the
+words in which the most gifted of poetesses, at "Cowper's Grave," has
+set the thoughts of many Christian hearts to words that deserve to be
+immortal:
+
+     "Like a sick child that knoweth not his mother while she blesses,
+     And drops upon his burning brow the coolness of her kisses:
+     That turns his fevered eyes around--_My mother! where's my mother?_
+     As if such tender words and looks could come from any other!
+     The fever gone, with leaps of heart he sees her bending o'er him,
+     Her face all pale from watchful love, the unweary love she bore him!
+     Thus woke the poet from the dream his life's long fever gave him,
+     Beneath those deep pathetic eyes, which closed in death to save him!
+     Thus? oh, not thus! no type of earth could image that awaking,
+     Wherein he scarcely heard the chant of seraphs round him breaking,
+     Or felt the new immortal throb of soul from body parted,
+     But fell those eyes alone, and knew. My Saviour! not deserted!"
+
+[Illustration: 0110]
+
+[Illustration: 0112]
+
+
+
+
+THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE
+
+[Illustration: 0113]
+
+|THE traveller into Derbyshire, unaccustomed to the district, may not
+unnaturally inquire for "the Peak," which he has been taught to consider
+one of the chief English mountains, and the name of which has always
+suggested to him something like a pyramid of rock,--an English
+Matterhorn. He will be soon undeceived, and then may paradoxically
+declare the peculiarity of "the Peak District" to be that there is no
+Peak! The range so called is a bulky mass of millstone grit, rising
+irregularly from the limestone | formation which occupies the southern
+part of Derbyshire, and extending in long spurs, or arms, north and
+north-east into Yorkshire as far as Sheffield, and west and south into
+Cheshire and Staffordshire. The plateau is covered by wild moorland,
+clothed with fern, moss and heather, and broken up by deep hollows and
+glens, through which streamlets descend, each through its own belt of
+verdure, from the spongy morasses above, forming in their course many a
+minute but picturesque waterfall. The pedestrian who establishes himself
+in the little inn at Ashopton, will have the opportunity of exploring
+many a breezy height and romantic glen; while, if he has strength of
+limb and of lungs to make his way to Kinderscout, the highest point of
+all, he will breathe, at the elevation of not quite two thousand feet,
+as fresh and exhilarating an atmosphere as can be found anywhere in
+these islands; the busy smoky city of Manchester being at a distance,
+"as the crow flies," of little more than fifteen miles! It is no wonder
+that a select company of hard-worked men, who have lighted on this nook
+among the hills, having a taste for natural history, resort hither year
+after year, finding a refreshment in the repeated visit equal at least
+to that which their fellow-citizens enjoy, at greater cost, in the
+terraces of Buxton, or on the gigantic slope of Matlock Bank.
+
+Where the limestone emerges from under the mass of grit, the scenery
+altogether changes. For roughly-rounded, dark-coloured rocks, covered
+with ling and bracken, now appear narrow glens, bold escarped edges,
+cliffs splintered into pinnacles and pierced by wonderful caves
+traversed by hidden streams. Of these caves the "Peak Cavern" at
+Castleton is the largest, that of the "Blue John Mine" the most
+beautiful, from its veins of Derbyshire spar.
+
+The tourist, however, who confines himself to the Peak District proper,
+with its immediately outlying scenery, will have a very inadequate view
+of the charms of Derbyshire. He can scarcely do better than begin at the
+other extremity, ascending the Dove through its limestone valley as far
+as Buxton, thence taking rail to Chapel-en-le-Frith, expatiating over
+the Peak moorlands according to time and inclination, descending to the
+limestone region again at Castleton, and following the Derwent in its
+downward course to Ambergate, pausing in his way to visit Chatsworth and
+Haddon Hall, and to stay awhile at Matlock.
+
+Having thus planned our own journey, our starting-point was Ashbourne,
+a quiet, pretty little town at the extremity of a branch railway.
+There was not much in the town itself to detain us: we could only pay
+a hurried visit to the church, whose beautiful spire, 212 feet high,
+is sometimes called the Pride of the Peak. There are some striking
+monuments; and among them one with an inscription of almost unequalled
+mournfulness. It is to an only child, a daughter: "She was in form and
+intellect most exquisite. The unfortunate parents ventured their all on
+this frail bark, and the wreck was total." Never was plaint of sorrowing
+despair more touching. Let us hope, both that the parents' darling was
+a lamb in the Good Shepherd's fold, and that the sorrowing father and
+mother found at length that there can be no total wreck to those whose
+treasure is in heaven!
+
+A night's refreshing rest at the inn, where several nationalities
+oddly combine to make up one complex sign--the fierce Saracen, the
+thick-lipped negro, the English huntsman in his coat of Lincoln
+green!--and we sallied forth on a glorious day of early autumn to make
+our first acquaintance with Dovedale. Leaving the town at the extremity
+furthest from the railway station, we found ourselves on a well-kept,
+undulating road, skirted by fair pastures on either hand; the absence
+of cornfields being a very marked feature in the landscape. Turning into
+pleasant country lanes to the left, we soon reached the garden gate of
+a finely-situated rural inn, the "Peveril ut' the Peak," whence a short
+cut would have led us over the brow of the hill into Dovedale; but we
+were anxious to visit Ilam, and therefore made a détour as far as the
+"Izaak Walton," so well known to brothers of the "gentle craft." A
+little farther, and we were in the identical Happy Valley of Rasselas,
+where we found a charming little village, with schoolhouse and
+drinking-fountain, park and hall and church, and every cottage a
+picture.
+
+[Illustration: 0116]
+
+Two little rivers meet here, one of them the Manifold, the other and
+larger the Dove; and after a hurried view of the lovely vale, we lost no
+time in making our way to the entrance of the far-famed Dale. As most of
+our readers will know, the Dove divides Staffordshire from Derbyshire:
+we took the Derbyshire side, entering at a little gate on the river
+bank, and leisurely and with many a pause pursued a walk with which
+surely in England there are few to compare. The river is a shallow,
+sparkling stream, with many a pool dear to the angler, and hurrying
+down, babbling over pebbles, and broken in its course by many a tiny
+waterfall. On both sides rise tall limestone cliffs, splintered into
+countless fantastic forms--rocky walls, towers, and pinnacles, and in
+one place a natural archway near the summit, leading to the uplands
+beyond. And all up the sloping sides, and wherever root-hold could be
+obtained on pinnacle and crag, were clustered shrubs and trees of
+every shade of foliage, with the first touch of autumn to heighten the
+exquisite variety by tints which as yet suggested only afar off the
+thought of decay. The solitude of the scene served but to enhance its
+loveliness. For that road by the river side is no broad well-beaten
+track. No vehicle can pass, and even the pedestrian has sometimes to
+pick his way with difficulty. The stillness, on the day of our visit,
+was unbroken save for the murmur of the water, the twitter of the birds,
+and the rustling of the branches in the gentle breeze. The blue sky
+overhead, and the sunlight casting shadows upon the cliffs and the
+stream, completed the picture; and if the memory of Izaak Walton and
+Charles Cotton haunted their favourite stream, it so happened that we
+encountered none of their disciples.
+
+Many travellers leave the glen at Mill Dale, where a pleasant country
+lane to the right enables them to gain the high road between Ashbourne
+and Buxton. Time and strength permitting, however, we would strongly
+advise the tourist to make his way by the river banks to Hartington,
+passing through Beresford Dale, where at Pike Pool, represented in the
+frontispiece to this chapter, all the beauties of the Dove Valley are
+concentrated at one view. A limestone obelisk stands in the middle of
+the river, with a background of rich foliage, just touched, at the
+time of our visit, with autumnal hues, while the clear water eddied and
+sparkled around its base. This pool was the favourite resort of Walton
+and his friend Cotton. Many allusions to the spot will be found in _The
+Complete Angler_; and the comfortable inn at Hartington, reached from
+Beresford Dale by a walk for about a mile through pleasant meadows,
+bears Charles Cotton's name.
+
+At Hartington, the high road to Buxton may be taken; or, far better, the
+traveller may make his way to the famous watering-place by the plateau
+which divides the valley of the Dove from that of its tributary
+Manifold; he will then descend to the former valley near Longnor, and
+thence may climb to Axe Edge, a great outlying southerly branch or spur
+of the gritstone, from which the Dove has its rise. Parting with this
+lovely river at its very fountain-head, we find it difficult to believe
+that so much beauty and even grandeur can have been included in the
+twenty miles' course of a little English stream, and are ready to
+endorse the enthusiastic tribute of Cotton:
+
+     "The rapid Garonne and the winding Seine
+     Are both too mean.
+
+     Beloved Dove, with thee
+     To claim priority:
+
+     Nay, Thame and Isis, when conjoined, submit
+     And lay their trophies at thy silver feet."
+
+[Illustration: 0118]
+
+At Buxton, easily reached from Axe Edge, we found every variety of
+excursion and other enjoyments open to us, "for a consideration." The
+Derbyshire dales that may be easily explored from this point are very
+fine; and the whole of the Peak is open to the tourist. We could give,
+however, but a hurried glance to these manifold beauties, being bent
+upon descending the Derwent in some such leisurely fashion as that
+in which we had ascended the Dove. We had, indeed, the railway now to
+facilitate the latter half of our journey--no slight matter! and
+yet this had the effect of bringing multitudes of travellers like
+ourselves, so that the end of the Derbyshire tour was taken in company
+with a crowd. For a time, however, we were comparatively alone to
+Castleton, by Mam Tor, the wonderful "Shivering Mountain," where the
+sandstone and mountain limestone meet;--so called from the loose shale
+which is constantly descending its side, and which, in popular belief,
+does not diminish the mountain's bulk: thence down through the Winnyats
+or Windgates, a picturesque pass between lofty cliffs, taking its name
+from the winds which are said to rage almost ceaselessly through the
+narrow defile, although at the time of our visit the air was calm,
+while the lights and shadows of a perfect autumn day beautified the grey
+limestone crags.
+
+[Illustration: 0119]
+
+The ruins of Peveril's Castle, and the gloomy caves of Castleton, of
+course were visited. Then began the journey down the Derwent, embracing
+pretty Hather-sage, with its ancient camps, tumuli, and other remains
+whose origin can only be conjectured. Here is the traditionary grave of
+Robin Hood's gigantic comrade, "Little John." A "Gospel Stone" in this
+village, once used as a pulpit, perpetuates the memory of the open-air
+harvest and thanksgiving services of past generations; while in the
+village of Eyam, three or four miles lower down, the "Pulpit Rock," in
+a natural dell still called a "church," brings to mind the heroism of a
+devoted pastor, who during the plague of 1665, when it would have been
+dangerous to meet in any building, daily assembled his parishioners in
+this place to pray with them, to teach and to console.
+
+[Illustration: 9120]
+
+The traveller will not regret the slight détour from the road by the
+river to visit this most interesting spot; and he may return to the
+Derwent by Middleton Dale, another magnificent pass through limestone
+cliffs. Hence he will soon reach Edensor, the "model village," and
+Chatsworth, "the Palace of the Peak." The splendours of the park and
+mansion are so familiar to thousands,--to whom in fact "the Peak
+of Derbyshire" is a name suggestive only of Chatsworth and Haddon
+Hall,--that we need attempt no description here. The visitor may follow
+his own bent, whether to wander in the stately park, or to join the
+hourly procession along the silken-roped avenue through the corridors
+and apartments of the Hall, with due admiration of the pictures,
+the statuary and the wonderful carving; thence passing out into the
+conservatory and the gardens, where nature has done so much, and art so
+much more. Truly days at Chatsworth are among the bright days of life,
+especially if there be time and opportunity also to visit Haddon Hall,
+that almost unique specimen of an old baronial English home, empty and
+dismantled now, but carefully preserved and beautiful for situation,
+upon the Derbyshire Wye, which here comes down from its own limestone
+glens and dales through the pretty town of Bakewell, to unite at Rowsley
+with the Derwent.
+
+At this junction, too, the traveller comes upon the railway, and will be
+tempted to pass only too rapidly by the beauties of the Derwent Valley
+between Rowsley and Ambergate. We can but assure him that he will lose
+much by so doing; that Darley Dale and Moor are very beautiful, and
+that the tourist who rushes on to Matlock Bath without staying to climb
+Matlock Bank does an injustice to Derbyshire scenery: while if he be
+in pursuit of health, he can find no better resting-place than at the
+renowned | hydropathic establishments which occupy the heights.
+
+[Illustration: 0121]
+
+Still, most who are in search of the picturesque will prefer to seek it
+at Matlock Bath, where indeed they will not be left to discover it
+for themselves. In this famous spot the beauties of nature are all
+catalogued, ticketed, and forced on the attention by signboards and
+handbills. Here is the path to "the beautiful scenery" (admission so
+much); there "the Romantic Rocks" (again a fee); there the ferry to "the
+Lovers' Walk," a charming path by the river-side, overshadowed by trees,
+and so on.
+
+[Illustration: 0123]
+
+Petrifying wells offer their rival attractions, and caves in the
+limestone are repeatedly illuminated during the season for the delight
+of excursionists. The market for fossils, spar, photographs, ferns, and
+all the wonderful things that nobody buys except at watering-places, is
+brisk and incessant. But when we have added to all this that the heights
+are truly magnificent, the woods and river very charming, and the
+arrangements of the hotels most homelike and satisfactory, it will not
+be wondered at that the balance of pleasure remained largely in favour
+of Matlock.
+
+[Illustration: 0124]
+
+It would be certainly pleasanter to discover for one's self that here
+is "the Switzerland of England," than to have the fact thrust upon
+attention by placards at every turn; but perhaps there are those to
+whom the information thus afforded is welcome, while the enormous
+highly-coloured pictures of valley, dale and crag which adorn every
+railway station on the line, no doubt perform their part in attracting
+and instructing visitors. They need certainly be at no loss to occupy
+their time to advantage, whether their stay be longer or shorter.
+
+[Illustration: 0125]
+
+Everything is made easy for them. To all the noblest points of view,
+easy paths have been constructed: the fatigue of mountain-climbing is
+reduced to a minimum; and certainly the landscapes disclosed even from a
+moderate elevation by the judicious pruning and removal of intercepting
+foliage, are such as to repay most richly the moderate effort requisite
+for the ascent. Lord Byron writes, that there are views in Derbyshire
+"as noble as in Greece or Switzerland." He was probably thinking of the
+prospect from Masson, from which the whole valley, with its boundary of
+tors, or limestone cliffs, is outspread before the observer, while the
+river sparkles beneath, reflecting masses of foliage, with depths of
+heavenly blue between; and beyond the scarred and broken ramparts of the
+glen, purple moorlands stretch away to the high and curving line of the
+horizon.
+
+The traveller southward, who has accompanied us thus far, if yet unsated
+with beauty, will be wise in taking the road from Matlock to Cromford,
+the next station, instead of proceeding by railway. The short walk
+or drive between the limestone cliffs, although the great majority
+of passengers pass it by unnoticed, is really, for its length, as
+magnificent as almost any of the dales in the higher part of the
+country. At Cromford there is the stately mansion of the Arkwrights,
+and a little beyond, on the other side of the railway, is Lea Hurst,
+the home of Miss Florence Nightingale, a name that will be gratefully
+enshrined in the memories of the English people, even when war shall
+be no more. From this spot the valley gradually broadens, still
+richly-wooded up the heights, with fair meadows on the river banks. And
+so we reach Ambergate, where we re-enter the busy world, bearing with us
+ineffaceable memories of the beauties and the wonders of "the Peak."
+
+[Illustration: 0126]
+
+[Illustration: 0128]
+
+
+
+
+WESTWARD HO!
+
+[Illustration: 0129]
+
+Almost every place of popular resort has its "season," when its charms
+are supposed to be at their highest, and the annual migration of
+visitors sets in. The period is not always determined by climate or
+calendar; and such is the caprice of fashion, that many a lovely spot
+is left well-nigh solitary during the weeks of its full perfection,
+the crowd beginning to gather when the beauties of the place are on the
+wane. Tastes will undoubtedly differ as to the most favourable time to
+visit one or another beautiful scene; but none, we should imagine,
+will dispute our opinion that the best season for travel in the west of
+England is in the early spring. We leave the north, with patches of snow
+yet on the hills, and the first leaflets struggling in vain to
+unfold themselves on the blackened branches; or, if we hail from the
+metropolis, we gladly turn our backs on wind-swept streets and bleak
+suburban roads, to find ourselves in two or three hours speeding beneath
+soft sunshine, between far-extending orchards, in all the loveliness of
+their delicate bloom, while the grass is of a richer tint, the blue sky,
+dappled with fleecy clouds, of a more exquisite purity, and instead
+of the slowly-relaxing grasp of winter, the promise of summer already
+thrills the air. "The flowers appear on the earth; the time of the
+singing of birds is come, and the voice of the turtle is heard in our
+land."
+
+But whither shall we direct our steps? It is the perfection of comfort
+in travelling to have time at command. We need be in no haste to leave
+the apple-blossomy valleys of Somersetshire, even for the woods and
+cliffs of Devon; and if the tourist would visit a spot which, in its
+own way, is unique in England, let him turn aside, as we did, soon after
+leaving Bristol, to a rift in the Mendip Hills, and make his way through
+the pass between the Cheddar Cliffs. A more majestic scene it would
+be difficult to find. For actual magnitude is only one element of
+sublimity. The biggest mountain is not always the grandest, just as the
+finest landscape is not always that which embraces the greatest number
+of square miles. The Himalayas are said to be far less imposing than the
+Alps. The width of the valleys, the more gradual slope of the mountains,
+and the greater distance from the eye, detract from their apparent
+height as compared with Mont Blanc or the Matterhorn. This little gorge
+of the Mendips affords a striking illustration of the same kind.
+The cliffs are less than five hundred feet high; yet under certain
+conditions of atmosphere we have had as deep a sense of sublimity, and
+under others as keen a sense of beauty here, as in districts where the
+altitude is to be reckoned by thousands of feet instead of hundreds.
+
+The approach to Cheddar is by a short railway from Yatton, on the
+Bristol and Exeter line, or by the road, which winds through a rich
+valley. The hills on either side are green to their very summits, from
+which fine views may be gained of the Bristol Channel, near Clevedon and
+Weston. One of them, Dolbury, is crowned by a remarkably fine British
+camp, enclosing within its ample area a Roman stronghold. Wrington, the
+birthplace of John Locke, is passed. Glastonbury Tor comes into view,
+and remains a conspicuous object for the rest of the journey.
+
+Immediately behind the village of Cheddar rises the bare grey ridge
+of the Mendips. Cut sheer through it from summit to base is an
+extraordinary cleft. The road which winds along the bottom of the
+ravine is in some places only wide enough to allow two vehicles to pass
+abreast. On the right-hand side a perpendicular wall of rock rises to
+the height of about four hundred and thirty feet. Its surface is
+broken by enormous buttresses, like the towers of some Titanic castle,
+surmounted by spires and pinnacles, whose light airy grace contrasts
+finely with the massive walls on which they rest. Down the face of the
+cliff long festoons of ivy and creeping plants wave to and fro. The
+scanty soil on the ledges and in the fissures is bright with wild
+flowers. The yew and mountain ash, dwarfed into mere shrubs, seem to
+cling with a precarious foothold to the face of the rock. Far above us
+innumerable jackdaws and crows chatter noisily, and hawks, with which
+the district abounds, soar across the narrow strip of sky overhead. The
+opposite side of the ravine is less precipitous, though even here it is
+steep enough to task the energies of the climber, and grand masses of
+rock stand out from the hill-side. Conspicuous amongst these is the Lion
+Rock, so called from its extraordinary resemblance to a crouching lion.
+This district abounds in caverns, many of them of great extent and
+beauty, which will well repay a visit. Local tradition affirms that one
+reaches as far as Wookey Hole, a distance of ten miles.
+
+[Illustration: 8131]
+
+The devoted and self-denying efforts of Mrs. Hannah More must not be
+forgotten in connection with Cheddar. When residing at Barley Wood, a
+few miles distant, about the end of the last century, she was dismayed
+at the ignorance and immorality of the villagers, who were "living like
+the brutes that perish," and indulging in gross vices. Scarcely even
+in the heart of Africa could more complete heathenism be found. As yet
+Sunday Schools, Tract Societies and all the means of usefulness, now so
+common, had no existence.
+
+Her endeavours for the amelioration of the people were as experiments to
+be tried single-handed, under the most unpromising circumstances, and in
+the face of the most violent hostility and abuse.
+
+Yet she did not shrink from the arduous duty which lay before her. A
+house was taken, a pious teacher appointed, and the school was opened.
+Gradually enemies were conciliated, as the happy effects of Christian
+teaching became apparent. Many of the children learned to know and love
+the Saviour. The influence spread from the children to the parents,
+and by the blessing of God the experiment, which at first seemed so
+hopeless, was crowned with a success beyond her utmost expectations. It
+was in connection with her evangelistic work at Cheddar that she wrote
+her first tract, _Village Politics, by Will Chip_. This led to the
+preparation of her _Cheap Repository Tracts_, to be followed in due time
+by the establishment of the Religious Tract Society, whose operations
+now extend throughout the whole world. On the completion of the series,
+Mrs. More wrote in her journal: "Bless the Lord, O my soul, that I have
+been spared to accomplish this work. Do Thou, O Lord, bless and prosper
+it to the good of many; and if it do good, may I give Thee the glory,
+and take to myself the shame of its defects. I have devoted three years
+to the work. Two millions of these tracts have been disposed of during
+the first year! God works by weak instruments, to show that the glory is
+all His own."
+
+From Cheddar the traveller may either continue his journey by way of
+Wells, or may return at once to the main line, passing near the coast
+of the Bristol Channel, with a wide alluvial plain at his left, once
+covered by an arm of the sea, with islands, as Brent Tor and others,
+emerging from the waters, and reaching as far as Glastonbury or
+Avalon--"apple-island," famed in legend and song.
+
+[Illustration: 0132]
+
+A little further, and the marshy plain of the Parret stretches away in
+one direction to Sedgemoor, scene of the "last battle fought on English
+ground," * that in which the ill-fated Duke of Monmouth suffered
+irretrievable defeat, and in another, to Athelney, the place of King
+Alfred's retreat and noble rally against the Danes. In memory of the
+stories that charmed our childhood, we could do no otherwise than take
+the branch line at Durston, whence a few minutes' run places us in the
+marshy unpicturesque scene so memorable in English story. The whole
+neighbourhood was evidently once covered with woods and morasses; good
+drainage has made it fertile now, but it must be confessed that it must
+depend for all its attractiveness on its associations. On or near the
+traditional site of the "neatherd's cottage," an unpretending stone
+pillar with a lengthy inscription preserves the memory of Alfred's
+sojourn.
+
+     * Macaulay. The date was July 6, 1685
+
+Resuming the journey westward, we soon discern the towers of the Taunton
+churches, and may find a welcome night's rest in this bright and pretty
+town; or turning again off the main line, may pass north west, by a
+route full of interest, to the Ouantock Hills. On our way we pass Combe
+Florey, famous as the residence for a time of Sydney Smith, and as the
+scene of some of the most characteristic stories of his life. But we
+must not linger in the valley: at every point the wooded hill-slopes
+tempt us to climb upwards among shady groves of beech, over turf thick
+with primroses and bluebells, then out upon the furzy heights. It hardly
+matters which path we take, whether up Cothelstone, whence the view
+is perhaps most magnificent, or Will's Neck, highest point of all, or
+Hurley Beacon. From hilltop to hill-top we make our way, descending
+into mossy glens, where the hill stream trickles down in miniature
+waterfalls, or striking down some deep wooded combe, where the houses
+of a village nestle among the trees, and the spacious church tells of
+a time when the inhabitants far out-numbered the present scanty
+population. In the valley below, to the north-east, we descry the
+village of Nether Stowey, for some time the residence of Coleridge,
+and further to the north, at the foot of one of the loveliest of wooded
+combes, is Alfoxton, which was at the same time the home of Wordsworth.
+The two friends have told us how they used to meet and discuss high
+themes in many a charming stroll, their neighbours much wondering the
+while, and the government of the day suspecting their advanced
+opinions. The end was that they had to leave, not before they had made
+imperishable record of the beauties of the place. Thus Wordsworth writes
+to Coleridge, in the Prelude:
+
+                         "Beloved Friend!
+     When looking back, thou seest in clearer view
+     Than any liveliest sights of yesterday
+     That summer, under whose indulgent skies
+     Upon smooth Quantock's airy ridge we roved
+     Unchecked, or loitered 'mid her sylvan combes:
+     Thou in bewitching words, with happy hearts
+     Midst chaint the vision of that ancient man;
+     The bright-eyed Mariner, and rueful woes
+     Didst utter of the Lady Christabel."
+
+Coleridge, in a note to the _Ancient Mariner_, says, "It was on a
+delightful walk from Nether Stowey to Dulverton, with Wordsworth and his
+sister, in the autumn of 1797, that this poem was planned and in part
+composed."
+
+The great hilly range to the west, in full view across the valley from
+the Ouantocks, is an outlying rampart of Exmoor, and the brown peak in
+the distance is Dunkery Beacon, the highest point in Somersetshire. Our
+road leads between these heights and the sea, by Dunster, with its great
+ivied castle overhanging the quaint feudal-looking little town, and
+Minehead, a cheerful unpretending watering-place, to Porlock, where
+the ascent of what the country people call a "terràble long hill," by a
+zigzag moorland road, leads to a height from which, on looking back, we
+have a prospect of surpassing grandeur. Let us gaze our fill: if the day
+be fine, and the atmosphere clear, we shall see nothing nobler in the
+west of England. To the south the huge masses of Dunkery, brown with
+heather, rise from a foreground of woods and glens; below, to the east,
+lies a fair valley, surrounded with hills of every picturesque variety
+in form, prominent among which is the rugged side of Bossington Beacon.
+Towards the south-east, heights on heights arise, some richly wooded,
+others majestic in their bareness; while to the north and north-east
+stretches the Bristol Channel, with the Welsh mountains dimly seen
+beyond.
+
+[Illustration: 0134]
+
+Then we go southwards over a reach of wild moorland, and come upon the
+indescribable loveliness of Lynmouth and Lynton. Far beyond railways,
+accessible only by long walking or driving over hilly roads, or by small
+boats from steamers on their way up and down the Channel, this fair spot
+can never attract the crowd; but those who have wandered by its streams,
+or climbed its heights, are singularly unanimous in pronouncing it the
+most charming spot in England. Lynmouth is in the valley, on the shore;
+Lynton on the height. The name is derived from the _lyns_, or torrents,
+which descend separately, each through a wooded gorge or combe, until
+they meet beside the sea. Great mossy rocks everywhere break the course
+of the torrents, and the luxuriant foliage which lines the banks,
+the ferns and flowers, with the overhanging trees, combine to make a
+succession of perfect pictures.
+
+[Illustration: 0135]
+
+The traveller will, of course, go up Lyndale, the valley of the East
+Lyn, as far as Watersmeet, and will not omit to explore the quieter,
+more luxuriant, though less magnificent West Lyn. He will climb to
+the summit of Lyn Cliff, and will survey at ease the prospect from the
+summer-house; and will not omit the extraordinary Valley of the Rocks,
+reached by a grand walk along the face of the cliff, which overhangs the
+sea to the west of Lynton. At a break in this path he suddenly comes
+to a gigantic gateway, formed of two rocky pyramids, and enters upon
+a scene which, to his first view, appears strewn with the fragments of
+some earlier world. "Imagine," says Southey, "a narrow vale between two
+ridges of hills, somewhat steep: the southern hill turfed; the vale,
+which runs from east to west, covered with huge stones, and fragments of
+stone among the fern that fills it; the northern ridge completely bare,
+excoriated of all turf and all soil, the very bones and skeleton of the
+earth; rock reclining upon rock, stone piled upon stone, a huge terrific
+mass. A palace of the pre-historic kings, a city of the Anakim, must
+have appeared so shapeless, and yet so like the ruins of what had been
+shaped after the waters of the flood subsided.... I never felt the
+sublimity of solitude before."
+
+The drive from Lynton to Barnstaple, though not long, being, we believe,
+somewhat under twenty miles, brought to us a crowd of half-forgotten
+associations of early days when coach-travelling was the chief means of
+locomotion. The coach itself was of the old build, spick and span in its
+neatness; the coachman was of old-fashioned ways; the four sleek horses
+were no mere omnibus hacks, but as they warmed to their work up and down
+hill, showed a mettle akin to that of roadsters in days long ago.
+Or perhaps we had only imagined until now that the old breed had
+deteriorated! The villages on the way had no sign of "Station" or
+"Station Hotel" about them; children ran from the cottage doors to shout
+after the coach, or to bring primroses and violets to the passengers;
+rustics gathered for a chat where the coachman pulled up, as he did
+tolerably often, for time seemed but a small object in that old-world
+region. And all around was outspread a landscape of rich, ever-changing
+loveliness, ruddy in soil, rich in verdure, as at one time we descended
+into lanes half-embowered by the already luxuriant hedgerows, and at
+another emerged on open moorland swept by soft breezes from the sea, and
+engirdled by the hazy forms of distant hills. At length the estuary of
+the Taw came into view, the houses of Barnstaple appeared, the coach
+drove into the station yard, and we were in the world again.
+
+Another route might have been taken from Lynton to Ilfracombe, by way of
+Combe Martin, with its fine and rocky bay; but we were anxious to
+reach less crowded and familiar spots than the famous North Devon
+watering-place, though this also is in its way delightful. We must,
+however, see one or two further points on the coast before striking
+inland again; and accordingly, took up our night's quarters at Bideford,
+famed for the length of its bridge, and the steepness of its streets.
+Emerging early in the morning from the highest part of the town, we
+made our way to Westward Ho! that magnificent possibility, whose stately
+mansions and hotels, broad quays and pier, surrounded by vessels from
+all parts, with its broad level plain by the sea and noble background
+of wooded hills, had so often captivated us--in railway-station
+waiting-rooms. We found it all there, except the mansions, the quays,
+and the ships! The bay is glorious, the plain upon the shore stretches
+far and wide,--to the satisfaction of golfers, for whose favourite game
+no spot can be better adapted: there is a great pebble-ridge, a natural
+breakwater two miles long and fifty feet wide, composed of rounded
+pebbles of carboniferous "grit;" the background of wooded cliffs is
+magnificent, while a lonely pier, one commodious hotel, a bath-house on
+a splendid scale, some rows of villas, lodging-houses, and one or two
+educational establishments give promise of prosperity to come. A great
+sanatorium or hydropathic institution, to be called "the Kingsley,"
+after the gifted man who has set the stamp of his genius on this whole
+neighbourhood, has been projected; and certainly for purposes of health
+as well as enjoyment, no place could be better adapted than the woodland
+terraces overlooking this most beautiful bay.
+
+The mention of Charles Kingsley reminds us of Clovelly, his early home,
+and to the last his favourite spot. Early in the morning we started for
+this unique Devonshire village, with high expectations, and under
+the auspices of the British Government, as our chosen vehicle was the
+"mail-cart," in the shape of a very comfortable waggonette filled
+with pleasant chatty passengers, all the livelier, perhaps, from the
+good-humoured sense of merit which early-rising is apt to engender. The
+road was not particularly striking, save for glimpses of the channel
+seen through the light morning haze: the breath of spring was in the
+air, and when we alighted at the "Hobby" gate, we were fully prepared
+for the three miles' walk by which our breakfast was yet to be earned.
+The path, in reality a broad, well-kept drive, is carried along the face
+of the cliff, which shelves gradually, covered thickly with trees and
+brushwood, to the shore, while the bank towers above, soft with moss and
+beautiful with flowers. The cliff curves in and out irregularly; broken
+in one or two places by deep glens, over which the road is carried by
+rustic bridges. Long shadows lay, that morning, across the path; above
+and below, the tender budding foliage clothed the dark branches of oak
+and elm, hazel and beech, in every variety of shade; the air was musical
+with birds, and, stirred by the gentle morning breeze and the whisper of
+the boughs, blended with the distant murmur of the sea. It was a walk to
+be remembered. At length, at a turning of the road, Clovelly came
+into sight, about a mile distant--a seemingly confused heap of houses
+emerging on all sides from thick woodland, and slanting steeply down
+to a stone pier jutting out into a little bay. At the end of the Hobby
+walk, the summit of the village was gained, and we were soon descending
+its curious steep street, not without longing looks at the quaint little
+lodging-houses, all untenanted as yet.
+
+[Illustration: 8139]
+
+Clovelly is a place to linger in, and to dream! The practical need of
+the hour, however, was breakfast, during the preparation of which meal
+it was pleasant to sit in the hotel balcony, and look out upon the bay,
+with its lines of light and shadow, and the long outline of Lundy Island
+showing clear in the distance; for now the morning mists had lifted,
+and the brightness of spring was over sea and land. A walk of marvellous
+beauty followed, into the park of Clovelly Court, over springy turf,
+through woodlands budding into leaf, and over a stretch of rugged
+wilderness, preserved with some art in its primitive simplicity. Thence,
+by a winding pathway, or over a steep grassy slope, the highest
+point may be reached, a noble cliff, called from some old local story
+Gallantry Bower. A little summer-house, nestling in the cliff-side,
+commands a grand range of cliffs, with their curved, contorted strata,
+peculiar to the carboniferous formation, while many a jutting or broken
+crag gives a castellated aspect to this magnificent rampart of the
+coast. Inland, the scene is full of beauties of hill and glen, in almost
+measureless variety; but we could not linger to survey them all; for
+our way lay in another direction, before we could feast again on the
+beauties of cliff and sea.
+
+Hartland Point, a little farther on, is the true "Land's End" of
+Devonshire, the terminating promontory of Bideford Bay, a tongue of
+grassy land, not more than thirty or forty feet wide, at the summit of a
+tremendous precipice on either side, pointing, it is said, to a similar
+projection on the opposite Welsh coast, like twin pillars of Hercules, *
+guarding the estuary of the Severn.
+
+     * Ptolemy, the geographer (2nd cent.), is supposed to have
+     referred to Hartland Point, as the "Promontory of Hercules."
+
+[Illustration: 9140]
+
+It would now have been easy to visit Bude Haven, and so to travel south
+and south-west along the cliffs which fringe the Atlantic, but our
+present plan was to strike inland to Dartmoor. The little town of
+Oke-hampton was therefore our first destination, reached by a somewhat
+dull route,--whichever road may be taken,--but, when gained, most
+interesting. The town lies in a valley, watered by a swift romantic
+river which, at one point, sweeping round a wooded hill, crowned by the
+ruins of an old castle, forms as lovely a picture as anything of the
+kind in England. Kingsley abuses Okehampton, unjustly, we think: but,
+whatever may be thought of the town and its immediate neighbourhood,
+there can be no doubt as to the wonderful interest of the excursions
+that may be taken from it as a centre. From the castle hill, as from
+other points in the town, the chief object that arrests the eye is the
+vast brown sweep of rising ground, suggestive of mysterious desolation
+beyond, which we know to be the boundary of Dartmoor. Ascending, we find
+ourselves at first on pleasant, breezy, though treeless heights, but
+keep to beaten paths, and pursue our onward journey. At length the
+moorland track over which we have passed seems to rise behind us and
+shut out the world; and as we gaze around, we feel that all pictures
+which we had framed to ourselves of wild deserted solitudes are
+surpassed. "Like the fragments of an earlier world," is the comparison
+that naturally rises to the lips. We are not unfamiliar with moorland
+scenery--with Rombald's Moor, for instance, in Yorkshire, beautiful in
+its variety of colour, from the tender green and softening greys and
+browns of spring, to the purple heathery splendours of the autumn,
+while the song of lark and linnet overhead, or the plaintive cry of
+the lapwing, gives animation to the scene. But at Dartmoor is a new
+experience of desolation. The stupendous mass of granite which here
+crops up from hidden depths is covered on its broken surface with thick
+peat, in whose depths the blackened trunks of trees occasionally give
+evidence of a time when the range was clothed with wood, but which,
+for the most part, bears only coarse grass and moss, with heather and
+whortleberry in the most favoured localities. Broad spaces are covered
+by morass and bog, dangerous to the unaccustomed pedestrian. Scanty
+streams break from the heights, and hurry in all directions down to
+the valley, swollen to wild fury after a storm. The "tor," or
+shapeless masses of rock, which stand out from the peaty surface in
+all directions, are but, as it were, the jagged projections from the
+interior rock-skeleton. Some may be readily ascended; Yes Tor (probably
+East Tor, pronounced Devonshire fashion) being the highest, and on many
+accounts the best worth climbing.
+
+[Illustration: 0141]
+
+The prospect of the moor from this or any other commanding point can
+only be described as awful in its grim, monotonous, silent desolation,
+the only beauty being that of swelling distant outline, or frequently
+that of colour, when the atmosphere is clear between the frequent
+showers, and the rays of the sun light up the heather and the moss,
+diversifying the dark shadows of the tors with the various hues of
+green, with the ruddy gleam of withered fern, and rushes in many a
+morass. But let not the traveller be too hopeful of sunshine and clear
+air! For as the local rhyme says:
+
+     The south wind blows, and brings wet weather;
+     The north gives wet and cold together;
+     The west wind comes brimful of rain,
+     The east wind drives it back again.
+     Then, if the sun in red should set,
+     We know the morrow must be wet;
+     And if the eve is clad in grey,
+     The next is sure a rainy day."
+
+[Illustration: 9142]
+
+Still, the slopes by which Dartmoor descends to the lowlands around are
+beautiful. In fact, the mighty granite mass is girdled by an investiture
+of fair glens and smiling villages, which make the circuit of it a
+succession of some of the brightest pictures that England can anywhere
+present in the same compass. The drive from Oke-hampton to Chagford,
+or to Moreton Hampstead, for instance, is of wonderful charm. Near the
+former village, the river Teign descends over rocks and boulders in a
+richly-wooded glen, as beautiful in parts as Dovedale.
+
+[Illustration: 8142]
+
+The rivers, indeed, which come down on all sides from Dartmoor, are the
+glory of Devonshire. Beside the Teign, there is the Dart itself, one
+head-stream of which rises near the well-known prison at Prince Town,
+with the Taw, Tavy, Avon, Erme, Plym, and streamlets innumerable.
+
+Travellers in favourable weather will do well to cross Dartmoor by the
+coach-road, from Moreton Hampstead to Tavistock, past the big, gloomy
+prison, appropriately placed in the very wildest and most desolate
+part of the whole region. Or, as we did, making Okehampton their
+headquarters, they may pass on by train by way of Lidford. The railway
+is carried in places at a great height, on the open edge of the moor,
+which it curiously fringes: it seems essentially a holiday line; there
+is no hurry, and the traveller, as he passes along, may leisurely survey
+the frowning heights above, or the fair valley below, according to his
+choice.
+
+[Illustration: 0143]
+
+Lidford station being reached, we left the train, and found ourselves
+in an unfinished-looking spot, with little outwardly to attract. Having,
+however, received directions how to proceed, we crossed a farmyard,
+where some cattle with stupendous horns looked and lowed at us in a
+manner trying to the nerves, then, emerging near a river bank, made
+our way for less than a mile up the stream, on a grassy path beneath
+overhanging woods, when at a sudden turn up a glen that opened to the
+main stream, the gleam of waters caught the eye, at the first glance
+like some tall spirit of the dell, glimmering through the foliage that
+enshrouded it. A more beautiful cascade is hardly to be seen in England,
+when Dartmoor has had abundance of rain. At other times they say a
+friendly miller can turn on a supply of water, else thriftily economised
+for his needs. Happily, no such artificial arrangement was needful on
+the occasion of our visit; and we remained long admiring the lovely
+picture.
+
+[Illustration: 0144]
+
+Retracing our steps, we climbed to the village, crossing on our way a
+commonplace-looking bridge, of a single arch, at a clip in the road,
+with the sound of a great rush of waters beneath.
+
+[Illustration: 0145]
+
+We looked over the parapet, but could discern nothing, owing to the mass
+of thick shrubs and foliage which overarched the stream, and made
+our way uphill to the village. Here the traveller is directed to the
+churchyard, to see a curious epitaph on a watchmaker, in which some
+rather obvious allusions to human life are borrowed from his craft.
+Students of mortuary inscriptions are thankful often for small mercies
+in the way of wit, and are not always careful to note where the humour
+degenerates into irreverence or worse. We were more sadly interested in
+the contrast, which we have also observed in other churchyards, between
+the old style and the new; the simple piety of our fathers and the
+mimic popery of some of their descendants. Both are very observable at
+Lidford. One ancient tombstone bore some pathetic lines, beginning,--
+
+     "Praise to our God, whose faithful love
+     Hath called another to His rest."
+
+But the modern fashion was evidently to put up a flimsy cross, with the
+letters R.I.P., _Requiescat in pace!_ a prayer for the dead, who are
+beyond our reach, safe in the endless rest, or in a darkness whither
+our prayers cannot avail them. We left the scene with the feeling deeper
+than ever, that there are growing up errors among us, against which it
+becomes all true men earnestly to strive.
+
+[Illustration: 9146]
+
+Meanwhile we had learned something about the bridge that we had crossed
+just before, and the rush of waters below. Returning, therefore, and
+making application at the house close by, we were conducted down into a
+rocky gorge, through which rushes the Lid, one of the Dartmoor streams,
+a tributary of the Tamar. The cliffs, irregular and castellated, are
+seventy feet high; a narrow, dangerous path is carried along one side
+of the rock, and the wild foaming waters in the dark, narrow glen carry
+back the traveller's mind to Switzerland. Certainly there is nothing
+like "Lidford Bridge" elsewhere in England; the Strid in Bolton Woods
+may equal it in its rush of waters; but the rocks there lie in the open
+woodland, and the stream is but a few feet below their summit: here the
+beetling precipices almost meet above, as at the "Devil's Bridge" in
+Cardiganshire, and there are weird stories at both places of travellers
+on horseback who have leaped the bridge unconsciously by night, when
+broken down, only discovering their peril and their escape on the
+following day.
+
+From Lidford to Tavistock was an easy ride, and we found this pleasant
+town a place every way suitable for a Lord's Day rest. Outwardly, the
+great charm of the locality is the meeting-place between the wildness of
+Dartmoor and the rich cultivation of the valley; while some walks by the
+river are of a tranquil and serene beauty, only as it seems to us to
+be found in England, and to be enjoyed on the day of rest. Perhaps our
+feeling is in a great measure due to association; but if so, we have to
+thank association for one of the happiest evenings we have known. Next
+morning we explored the remains of the Abbey--now put to heterogeneous
+uses--a public library, a Unitarian Chapel, and a hotel, with sundry
+ruins in the vicarage garden; then a short railway journey carried us
+across the Cornish border to Launceston, where a short climb through
+pretty pleasure grounds to the keep of the old castle on the knoll that
+rises steeply from the town gave us a fine view, from the bulky range of
+Dartmoor on the one side, to the craggy outline of the Cornish hills on
+the other.
+
+[Illustration: 0147]
+
+Our object, however, was now to reach the coast; and, as a good test of
+our pedestrian powers, already pretty well exercised in the course
+of this charming: tour, we determined to walk over the hills in the
+direction of the sea, knowing that even if our powers failed, some
+passing "van" would take us up, and convey us in a primitive fashion to
+the nearest town. But we persevered, and, when we had accomplished nine
+or ten miles of an undulating, monotonous road, were rewarded by the
+first glimpse of the Atlantic, with the cloud shadows lying afar upon
+the untroubled sapphire; while, though no breeze stirred, there was
+a sense of freshness in the air that encouraged us to press on to our
+journey's end. At length we reached it, in a village to name which is
+to raise in the minds of those who have visited it memories most
+delightful; while to the multitude it is and will probably remain
+unknown. We will not call it Trelyon, after the fashion of a popular
+novelist, who has given us some of the most charming word-pictures of
+this scenery which our literature contains. Nor is it unkindness to
+the happy few who already know Boscastle, and one delightful homelike
+retreat from the world which it contains, to raise the veil a little
+farther. That it is several miles distant from a railway station, that
+there is no public conveyance to it but the "vans" already referred
+to, that gas is a luxury unknown, are points in its favour to those who
+think, like the Frenchman:
+
+     "How sweet, how passing sweet, is solitude!
+     But give me just one friend in my retreat,
+     To whom to whisper, 'Solitude is sweet.'"
+
+For society may be found at Boscastle--the society of the chosen few.
+The place itself is unique. Through tiny meadows a streamlet flows
+swiftly towards the sea, entering a fissure where the hills, swelling
+upward on either hand, rise to towering cliffs, inclosing a harbour, up
+which the tide surges restlessly to meet the stream, then as restlessly
+subsides. Behind the cliff on the western side, up a broad cleft from
+the brink of the rivulet to the hill-summit, runs the village, inhabited
+by a hardy, independent, self-contained race of Cornish people, proud
+of their scenery, as well they may be. The slate cliffs, in endless
+diversity of craggy pointed form, skirt the sea, which ever chafes
+against their bases; here and there a little inlet far below shows
+a surface of smooth white sand, inaccessible from the land, or to be
+reached only by the surefooted climber, familiar with every step. Broad
+grassy slopes crown the cliffs, and every turn discloses magnificent
+views of sea and shore. Our walk along the cliffs to Tintagel, starting
+from Willapark Point, the headland that rises so grandly to the west of
+the little bay, was of an interest which perhaps no other coast scene
+in England can fully match. First, Forrabury Church was passed, with
+its silent tower; the bells once destined for it lying, according
+to tradition, close by, at the bottom of the Atlantic. The ship that
+conveyed them was nearing the port. "Thank God for a fair voyage," said
+the pilot. "Nay," replied the captain, "thank the ship, the canvas, and
+the fair wind." It was in vain that the pilot remonstrated; but even
+while the ship was rounding the point a sudden storm gathered, the
+vessel was dashed upon the rocky coast, all perished save the pilot,
+and the bells sinking to the deep tolled solemnly, as if for the fate of
+those who would not acknowledge God. Still, it is said, when the storm
+rises high--
+
+     "'Those bells, that sullen surges hide,
+     'Peal their deep notes beneath the tide:
+     'Come to thy God in time!'--thus saith the ocean chime:
+     'Storm, billow, whirlwind past, come to thy God at last.'"
+
+[Illustration: 0150]
+
+Such is a specimen of the tales told at many a Cornish fireside. As we
+pass on we feel more and more that we are in the country of legend and
+song. The rolling uplands that stretch inland, with the deep vales and
+furzy hollows that intersect them, are renowned as the realm of King
+Arthur, the hero of British history and fable. Here, on the shore of
+the Atlantic, he may have gathered his good knights around him, to stand
+with them against the heathen invader; or it may be that here he was
+born, according to the legend; while "the great battle of the west," in
+which the hero disappeared, is said to have been fought at Camelford, in
+the neighbourhood. Local legends are full of this royal name; and if,
+as some will have it, King Arthur never existed, the universality of the
+tradition is all the more remarkable. The impress of his memory and
+life is everywhere. Of a little cottage maiden who guided us, we ask her
+name. "Jinnifer," was the reply--an unconscious perpetuation of the name
+of Guinevere, Arthur's Oueen.
+
+A lovely wooded glen breaks the cliff halfway to Tintagel, at the heal
+of which the explorer will find a waterfall, in a wild forest ravine,
+both on a somewhat miniature scale; but in the accessories of rock-hewn
+walks, with clinging shrubs and mountain spring-flowers, watered by the
+dashing spray, the dell was perfect. St. Nighton's Keive, or basin, as
+this romantic nook is called, is a sudden and welcome change from the
+wild sublimity of the rocks above, and the ceaseless thunder of the
+Atlantic. But we must reascend; and soon, from our turfy path upon the
+height we come into full view of a stupendous rock, standing a little
+way out to sea, the home of myriads of seabirds that circle the rock
+with weird cries, or, descending in flocks, skim the surface of the
+waves. They have evidently learned to fear the gun, and to distrust
+mankind.
+
+Tintagel, now approached, is an irregular village, following the lines
+and descents of the cliff. The church is on a wind-swept headland to the
+west, and in its stormiest corner we found the grave and monument of Mr.
+Douglas Cooke, the first editor of the _Saturday Review_. It was curious
+to be reminded of the conflicts of literature at this meeting-place of
+storms.
+
+Tintagel Castle itself we approached by a path that looked perilous,
+but was safe enough, descending from the cliff and rising steeply to a
+promontory or peninsula of slaty rock, on which the ruins stand.
+These are jagged, time-worn; little plan or order can be traced; such
+fragments of building as still exist are no doubt of much more recent
+origin than Arthur's time: the outward glory of the scene is all in the
+majestic sweep and serried outline of the stupendous cliffs, with the
+long roll of the sea breaking ceaselessly into billows at their base.
+The stillness is unbroken, save for this ocean music, with the hoarse
+cry of sea-birds, and the occasional bleating of the few sheep who
+pasture here. The sense of isolation becomes at last oppressive, and we
+gladly retrace our steps to the mainland.
+
+Boscastle remains for a time our home: it is a never-ceasing delight
+to climb to some nook of the cliffs, east and west, which inclose the
+little harbour, or to stroll down to the little pier--a trying walk at
+certain seasons, because of a chemical manure manufactory on the way--or
+to ramble over the grassy slopes, inhaling the pure breezes of the
+Atlantic. The Sunday spent in the neighbourhood was one of peculiar
+delight. Wandering inland, we found a church, in the depths of a wood;
+the congregation seemed to emerge, we knew not how, from deep bowery
+lanes and by-paths among the trees; the service was none the less
+impressive for the singing of birds without and the fragrance of
+spring blossoms stealing through the open windows. The sermon, too, was
+appropriate, a tender, practical exhortation to "delight ourselves in
+God." In the evening of the same day, in the hush of twilight, taking
+our accustomed path over the cliffs, we came upon a group of people, old
+and young, who had evidently come thither after an early evening service
+at one of the chapels: they were holding a prayer-meeting in the rocky
+nook--singing a hymn as we approached, the burden of which was "Over
+there," while wistful eyes gazed across the now purple sea, to the
+splendours which lingered in the west after sunset, as though reminded
+by those tints of heavenly glory of the land that is very far off. It
+was good for the stranger to pause by the way, to join in that touching
+strain, and add his Amen to that Sabbath evening prayer.
+
+[Illustration: 9153]
+
+Boscastle was so attractive that the rest of a long journey had to be
+performed in haste. Bodmin, Truro, Redruth, were all rapidly passed, and
+after climbing Carnbrea, near the latter town, and hearing some of the
+marvellous stories connected with that giant hill, we took rail for
+Penzance, anxious at least to visit St. Michael's Mount, the Logan Rock
+and the Land's End. But what impressed us most, when we reached that
+last and prettiest of Cornish towns, was the climate. We had believed
+it spring; but here it was already summer! The last struggle with wintry
+frosts was over, and the woods and fields were decked with all their
+wealth of verdure; the air had lost its sharpness, and the rich
+colouring of every part of the scene, from the golden furze upon the
+hills to the ruddy lichen on the rocks, seemed to reflect the genial
+glow. Mount's Bay, still and blue, was wonderful in its contrast with
+the Atlantic surges that we had just left on the opposite shore. We
+thought of the words with which Emerson begins one of his lectures: "In
+this refulgent summer it has been a luxury to live."
+
+St. Michael's Mount, that extraordinary combination, geologically
+speaking, of granite and clay-slate, remarkable, too, in its
+correspondence with the much larger Mont St. Michel on the shore of
+Normandy, is as interesting a place to visit as it is beautiful to look
+upon. The views from its summit over sea and land are of surpassing
+loveliness, and to enjoy them to the full it is not necessary to make
+the hazardous attempt to sit in "St. Michael's Chair," the half, it is
+said, of an old stone lantern, but overhanging the precipice in a
+very perilous way. The villagers round the bay will tell you that the
+archangel himself appears in this "chair" when a storm is raging, and
+firmly believe that he is the guardian spirit of these seas.
+
+[Illustration: 0153]
+
+The Logan Rock, to which we next directed our steps, was disappointing
+in more ways than one: the finest part of the cliff-scenery being the
+great granite headland, which visitors are apt to pass unnoticed, in
+searching for the natural curiosity, and in recalling the story of its
+fall and reinstatement. There are, in fact, many "logan" or logging
+rocks in granite districts, locally called Tolmêns; one formerly in the
+parish of Constantine, between Penrhyn and Helston, being larger than
+this on the coast, though without its magnificent accessories. Their
+peculiar position is caused by the influence of air and moisture,
+wearing a fissure in the rock, until a detached upper portion rests only
+on a small central base. The wonder is in the bigness of the rock thus
+balanced, and in the evenness of the process of disintegration all
+around: the vast majority of boulders worn away by such agencies being
+of course over balanced, so as to fall on one side.
+
+[Illustration: 0154]
+
+The mechanical restoration of this Logan Rock to its position, and the
+appliances necessary to keep it in balance, give an artifical air to the
+whole, and we were glad to turn away to the stupendous cliff scenery,
+pursuing a path along the rocks to the Land's End, where every point has
+its old Cornish name, and where the combinations of form and outline,
+if less imposing than on the northern shore, are still very fine. The
+granite of which this southern line of coast is composed is more rugged
+and massive, if less variously picturesque, and the admirer of coast
+scenery who has explored the two districts--from Boscastle to Tintagel,
+and from the Logan Rock to the Land's End--has little' more to see or to
+learn.
+
+The great western promontory has been so often described that we
+need but refer to our artist's delineation. The low descending
+promontory, from the great cliff rampart behind, the narrowness of the
+"neck of land" between "two unbounded seas,"--to adopt the phrase of
+Charles Wesley's well-known hymn, here written,--the rocky islands near,
+on which the lighthouse stands, and the ever-chafing restless surge,
+make up a picture which fills the imagination in many after days.
+
+[Illustration: 8155]
+
+From this point "the vast expanse of ocean is at all times a grand
+spectacle; it is terrible when a fierce westerly gale levels before it
+the whole flow of the sea, driving forward one blinding sheet of foam,
+even to the summit of the Land's End precipice; but it is yet more
+solemn in its quieter mood, when, with little wind stirring, the vast
+billows, propagated from some centre of storms far in the Atlantic, come
+slowly to break on the rocks in measured cadences of thunder, the very
+types of enormous power in repose."
+
+But it was now time to turn our thoughts and our course homeward.
+
+Very reluctantly, we left the south of Cornwall unvisited--the Lizard
+Point, Kynance Cove, and the magnificent harbour of Falmouth, with its
+flanking castles of Pen-dennis and St. Mawes.
+
+[Illustration: 9155]
+
+Then there were the great southern towns of Devonshire, with their
+beauties manifold,--Plymouth and Torquay, with the lovely little
+watering-places of Teignmouth and Dawlish, and stately Exeter itself. On
+previous occasions we had visited them all, had spent long dreamy hours
+in Anstey's Cove, then comparatively unvisited by excursionists, had
+tenanted humble lodgings at Babbicombe Bay, before the villas were
+built, and had sailed down the lovely winding Dart to Dartmouth, with
+its harbour among the hills. The natural beauties are still there,
+though art has done much of its best or its worst with them since those
+days. But we must now pass them all by, only in imagination breathing
+their soft southern airs, or casting hasty glances at one or other of
+them from the carriage windows of the romantic South Devon Railway. For
+we have tarried amid the attractions of the far west until the latest
+possible moment. At six in the morning we leave Penzance; at six in the
+evening we are in London.
+
+[Illustration: 0156]
+
+[Illustration: 0158]
+
+
+
+
+THE ENGLISH LAKES
+
+[Illustration: 0159]
+
+|ONE great attraction of the Lake district of Cumberland and
+Westmoreland lies in its singular compactness. Equal beauties, and
+greater sublimity, may be found elsewhere, but nowhere surely has such
+immense variety of natural charms been gathered within the same space.
+A good pedestrian might pass from the north of the district to the
+south--from Keswick to Windermere--in a single day; or in even less time
+might make his way from east to west--from Patterdale to the foot of
+Wastwater. True, in so hurried a journey he would lose much; for weeks
+may delightfully be spent among the mountains, in exploring their hidden
+nooks and wonders. But all that is most beautiful is within the compass
+of a short tour; and an observation which Mr. Ruskin has somewhere made
+about Switzerland is as true of this enchanting country. He says that
+the loveliest and sublimest scenes are to be witnessed from beaten roads
+and spots easy of access; that things as wonderful are open to the
+view of the traveller who cannot leave his carriage as to the Alpine
+mountaineer. There is no doubt an exhilaration of mountain air only
+to be enjoyed on the heights; and for the view of billowy uplands all
+around the spectator, like a Titanic ocean stricken into stillness, the
+visitor to the Lakes ought to ascend Helvellyn; but the views from
+the valleys, or from the roads that encircle the lower slopes of the
+mountains, are incomparable. Familiar as is the road from Ambleside to
+Grasmere, or, in another style of beauty, the drive to Red-bank and High
+Close, or, in yet another, the ascent to the Castle Hill at Keswick,
+they never lose their charm even to those who prefer to leave these easy
+ways for the toilsome walk over the Stake or Sty Head Pass, or up the
+shaley steeps of Scafell or the tremendous grassy slopes of Skiddaw. The
+glories of this district are, in a word, for all who have eyes to see
+and hearts to feel.
+
+[Illustration: 0160]
+
+First impressions have great effect, especially in the approach to
+beautiful scenery; and there are at least three ways to the Lake
+district from the south which compete one with another in their
+interest. The first is by rail, northwards from Lancaster to Penrith,
+passing by the outside or eastern edge of the fells which bound the
+mountain region. This journey throughout is of wonderful beauty,
+especially where the broad grassy fells rise steeply on one side of the
+line, and on the other the hill abruptly descends to the river Lune,
+here little more than a mountain streamlet, eddying and sparkling
+through wooded dells. From Penrith, a branch line to Keswick passes in
+the latter part of its course through an exquisite glen, watered by the
+streams that come down from the great Blencathara ridge, with many
+a glimpse of picturesque crags clothed with fern, shrubs and flowers
+jutting from the mountain's base. All this well prepares the traveller
+for the glorious view that greets him when he emerges from the station
+at Keswick, and looks forth upon the amphitheatre of mountains.
+
+Another method of approach is by leaving the Lancaster and Carlisle
+Railway at the junction for Kendal, so proceeding to the Windermere
+terminus, situated on a height commanding a magnificent view of
+the upper part of the lake. The suddenness with which this scene is
+disclosed, as well as the completeness of its beauty, makes it to many
+the favourite mode of access. It is also perhaps the most convenient,
+conveyances to every part of the district being ready as the trains come
+in. The traveller, however, should it be his first visit, will do well
+to go up to Orrest' Head, behind the hotel, from which the whole of
+Windermere, with its islands and the mountains beyond, form a truly
+enchanting prospect, suggesting to the delighted spectator the wonders
+beyond.
+
+[Illustration: 0161]
+
+But there is another way of entering this fairy region, by which its
+beauties are not suddenly disclosed, but grow one by one upon the sight.
+Still, perhaps, the unique and impressive character of the approach
+gives this method of access the advantage over every other. So we say to
+every reader who has not as yet visited the Lakes, Go by the over-land
+railway along the edge of Morecambe Bay: and to those who have visited
+it by other routes, Go again by this! The line crosses two estuaries,
+of the Kent and of the Leven. When the tide is up, the effect of
+passing through a wide expanse of sea rising to within a few feet of the
+embankment on both sides is wonderfully striking; and at low water the
+great reaches of sand are scarcely less impressive. Morecambe Bay, with
+its curving shore and many inlets, is at all times beautiful, and the
+mountain ranges are seen dimly in outline across its waters. At several
+points the railway embankment seems to have effected a change in the
+sea-level; fields now fertile being fringed on the side farthest from
+the bay by low cliffs, the bases of which were evidently at no remote
+period washed by the waters. A vast additional area might, one would
+think, be still reclaimed by engineering skill without any serious cost.
+But we pass on to Ulverston, where we change carriages, rather than
+proceed at present to Furness* and Coniston; the direct entrance to the
+district being by a short recently-constructed railway along the shore
+of the Leven up to the foot of Windermere. We pass through a pretty
+wooded valley beside the bright, swiftly-descending stream, and at the
+terminus, on the brink of the lake, find a little steamer ready to pass
+upward. At first the charms of Windermere resemble those of some fair
+broad river, flowing between ranges of low wood-crowned hills; but the
+lake soon opens, and after we have passed Belle Isle, opposite Bowness,
+any disappointment we may have felt at first yields to unbounded
+admiration. The mountains at the head of the lake disclose their grand
+outlines, appearing to change their relative positions at every turn of
+the steamer; and some persons acquainted with mountain scenery in many
+lands pronounce the view of these heights a little before sunset in
+summer time to be unsurpassed in beauty. Wansfell Pike on the right,
+Fairfield in front, and the Langdale Pikes in the distance on the left,
+with the broken lines and broad uplands of Loughrigg Fells between, all
+invested with the shadowy tints of evening, form a picture which in its
+tender aerial loveliness seems ready to vanish while we gaze.
+
+     * There is another way of entering the district, by the
+     Furness Railway, and along the west coast, as far as the
+     station at Seascales or Drigg: thence to Wastwater, and
+     Wastdale Head. The traveller will thus plunge at once into
+     the wildest and most desolate part of the Lake country,
+     emerging into fairer scenes.
+
+[Illustration: 0162]
+
+If the ways of entering this fair district are manifold, so are the
+method and order in which its attractions may be viewed. These must be
+studied in the guide books, and every traveller will shape his route for
+himself. In this, much will depend on the time at command. We have spent
+three days among the Lakes, and again a week, again a month; and while
+the shorter period enabled us to see much, the longer did but prove to
+us that the beauties were inexhaustible. Some visitors take Ambleside
+as their headquarters, some Grasmere, some Keswick; others, happier in
+their decision, have no headquarters at all, but range from place to
+place. As a centre, we should prefer Grasmere; but every one will have
+his own preference. It may almost be said that the Lake country has
+its controversies and sects, with as many divisions of opinion on the
+question which part is the fairest, as on more important matters.
+Some give the palm to Ullswater among the lakes, an equal number to
+Denventwater, a minority to Windermere, while there are those who prefer
+the silent and gloomy Wastwater. Then who shall say whether the view
+from Helvellyn, Skiddaw, or Scafell is the most marvellous in its
+beauty? Our advice is to join none of the sects, to take no part in
+the controversy, to climb all three of the mountains, and to visit, if
+possible, all the lakes! After this our advice may be thought to savour
+of partisanship, when we say that the visitor who wishes to know the
+full and perfect beauty of this region, whether he enter from the north,
+or west, or south, must on no account neglect to visit Keswick and
+Skiddaw.
+
+[Illustration: 0163]
+
+The lovely lake of Derwentwater is so near to the little town, there are
+so many points, as Friar's Crag, Castle Crag, and Latrigg, accessible by
+the most moderate walking, and the days' excursions from the place are
+so various and delightful, that none will feel our counsel to be out of
+place. Not to mention that, in the by no means rare or improbable event
+of a rainy day, there are the pencil factories and the models of
+the Lake district. The latter should be seen alike by those who have
+traversed the region, and by those who have not; the former will be
+interested in recognising the places that they have visited, and the
+latter, in making out their intended tours.
+
+The great excursion from Keswick is one which is made by multitudes on
+foot or in carriages; and for variety of charm within a comparatively
+short compass its equal is hardly to be found. First the road leads
+between the lake and an almost perpendicular crag, wooded to the summit.
+Barrow Falls, in the pleasure-grounds of a mansion, may be visited on
+the way; and few will omit to see Lodore, at the other end of the lake.
+The charm here is that of a steep and rocky glen: rarely indeed does
+the "water come down," at least in the summer-time, after the fashion
+described in Southey's famous lines.
+
+[Illustration: 9164]
+
+Then the grandeurs of Borrowdale unfold themselves, and Rossthwaite, in
+the heart of this valley, is the very ideal of sequestered loveliness.
+The road, turning to the right at Seatoller, climbs a long steep hill
+beside a dashing torrent. A little way beyond the summit is Honister
+Crag, most magnificent of inland cliffs; and so, amid wild rock-scenery
+on either hand, we descend to Buttermere. The drive now discloses
+a grand amphitheatre of mountains, whose summits form a rugged
+ever-changing line against the sky. Soon the little inn is reached;
+but we would advise no tourist so to occupy himself with the welcome
+refreshment, though flavoured with that "best sauce," a sharp-set
+appetite, or even with the ever-amusing "Visitors' Book," as to neglect
+rowing across Crummock Water, when a walk of about a mile will take him
+to Scale Force, in its deep rocky glen, the loftiest and noblest, as
+well as the most secluded of the lake waterfalls. The drive back from
+Buttermere to Keswick, by the Newland Valley, or the Vale of Lorton,
+with its old yew tree, is full of interest, from the bold mountain
+forms ever in view, but has not the wonderfully varied beauty of the
+Borrowdale and Seatoller route.
+
+Everybody, as we have said, takes this drive: but there is an excursion
+known to comparatively few, not a very long one, but "beautiful
+exceedingly."
+
+Should a morning at Keswick be unemployed, or if the question should
+arise in the interval of wider explorations: "What shall I do to-day?"
+our advice is to go up to Watendlath. This is a narrow upland valley,
+extending from the head of the stream that supplies Barrow Fall, to that
+which comes down at Lodore, then up by the latter to the tarn from which
+it flows. It may be reached by one of two or three routes from below,
+and after a short ascent the traveller finds himself, as it were, in
+the very heart of the hills; a still and lovely world, above the beaten
+ways, with nature's fragrance and music all around. We have suggested "a
+morning" for the excursion, but it is still better to proceed leisurely;
+resting on some turfy bank beside the path, in happy talk with congenial
+friends; or, if alone, in quiet communion with our own souls and with
+Him who has made the world so beautiful. In the earlier parts of the
+walk the occasional views over Derwentwater, and down to Bassenthwaite,
+with Skiddaw towering grandly in one direction, and the Borrowdale
+Mountains in another, are magnificent; but in the heart of the glen,
+leading up beside the Lodore torrent, these are gradually left behind.
+When the hamlet, and the tarn with its bright rippling waters, at length
+are reached, and the torrent has been crossed by a little rustic bridge,
+Ross-thwaite is descried below, and may be reached by a steep descent;
+or the stout pedestrian may strike boldly over Armboth Fall for
+Thirlmere at the foot of Helvellyn, or if he please may climb still
+higher by the side of the Lodore stream until he reaches Blea Tarn, high
+up among the fells.
+
+Which of the three great mountains of the Lake district to choose in
+preference for an ascent, it would be hard to say. On the whole, our
+own associations would lead us to select Skiddaw; but if Helvellyn and
+Scafell can also be ascended, so much the better. The distant views
+from Skiddaw of the Solway Firth and the Scottish hills are very fine
+in clear weather; but undoubtedly the wild magnificence of the mountain
+groups as seen from Helvellyn is incomparable. The majesty of Scafell is
+the majesty of desolation. Carlyle says:--
+
+"From this centre of the mountain region, beautiful and solemn is the
+aspect to the traveller. He beholds a world of mountains, a hundred
+savage peaks--like giant spirits of the wilderness; there in their
+silence, in their solitude, even as on the night when Noah's deluge
+first dried." *
+
+     * _Sartor Resartus._
+
+But of all mountain scenes, that which most abides in our memory is
+that which was suddenly outspread before us one summer evening, a little
+before sunset, in descending Skiddaw. The afternoon had brought swirling
+blinding mists about our upward path; we had reached the summit with
+difficulty, only to find ourselves enveloped on all sides in a white
+chilly sea of cloud. Passing breezes and sweeping sheets of vapour had
+created the hope that the mists would soon pass away; but it seemed in
+vain to wait, and we began descending. Then as we reached a little knoll
+on the mountain's side, the mist parted before us, and in an instant
+had rolled far back on either side. Through its vast shadowy portal,
+it was as if Paradise were unveiled! The atmosphere below was perfectly
+transparent and still; the rays of the sun were reflected in crimson
+glory from the lake, so as in an instant to bring to the mind of every
+member of our party the Apocalyptic vision of the "sea of glass mingled
+with fire." The splendour lighted up every mountain side where it fell,
+their crags were gold and purple, the verdure of the upland slopes and
+thick woods, with the living green of the woods and meadows, gleamed
+with a more than tropical brilliancy; and the long dark shadows which
+everywhere lay athwart the scene only set in brighter contrast the
+surrounding glory. The mists fleeted, vanishing as they ascended the
+mountain side; the magnificence of colouring soon subsided into quiet
+loveliness, then into a sober grey; the vision had faded, leaving deep
+suggestions of those possibilities of beauty everywhere latent in this
+fair creation, perhaps to be fully disclosed when the new heavens and
+earth shall appear.
+
+Space fails us now to speak of the rival beauties of Ullswater, where
+the surrounding mountains are closer and grander than in any other part
+of the district. Every competent pedestrian we would advise to walk
+to this lake, from the border of Thirlmere, and over the summit of
+Helvellyn. Should this be too great a tax on the tourist's powers, he
+will find the way by Griesdale, a pass between Fairfield and Helvellyn,
+a very practicable walk amid grand scenery. And when Ullswater is
+reached, what more charming nook can there be than Patterdale, deep set
+among the hills? After a little time spent there, we pant perhaps for
+more open scenery and a more stimulating atmosphere; and there is the
+climb over Kirkstone Pass to meet our desire, and to carry us back to
+beautiful Windermere, our first love and our last, in all this haunted
+realm!
+
+We have pursued for the most part a beaten track, verily believing, as
+we said at the outset, that here the choicest beauties are to be found.
+But there is many a hidden little-visited nook where the superadded
+charm of solitude seems to enhance all the rest; and we shall be
+indignantly told by many that we have left the loveliest spots without
+a mention. What can be more perfectly beautiful than the view's from the
+hill-sides above the head of Coniston Water? What valley can vie, in its
+combination of lofty cliff, green slopes, richly varied woodland, and
+gleam of rushing waters, with the approach from Coniston to Little
+Langdale? The few who in another part of the district follow the Liza
+down to Ennerdale will have it that there is a wild beauty in this glen
+which gives it a charm beyond all others. And so is it on the other
+side, with the scarcely larger band of visitors to secluded Mardale and
+wild and lonely Haweswater. Then, as to mountain passes, the climber
+sneers at Griesdale, calls Kirkstone a "Turn-pike-road," thinks there is
+nothing worth an effort but the Stake, between Langdale and Borrowdale,
+Sty Head, between Langdale and Wastdale, or Black Sail and Scarf Gap,
+from Wastdale to Buttermere. And even these passes are not Alpine. Go
+in a fault-finding mood, and you will discover that the torrents are
+without volume, that the mountains lack elevation, that the lakes are
+insignificant in size. But the man whose eye and heart are open to the
+impression of beauty will be indifferent to these comparisons, will
+rather rejoice in the limitations which permit every element of grandeur
+and loveliness to be gathered into so small a space; and for ourselves
+we may say that we have never appreciated the charm of the English Lakes
+so truly as when we have visited them after a tour amid the mightier
+wonders of Switzerland.
+
+[Illustration: 0167]
+
+At Ambleside there is many a pleasant resting-place in which to recall
+the pleasures and sum up the impressions of the journey, and to dwell,
+as many love to do, upon the associations of one and another great name
+by turns with almost every part of the district. First and foremost is
+Wordsworth, the poet of nature;--the great "Lake Poet," only because
+nature here is at her loveliest,--who from his home at Grasmere, and
+afterwards at Rydal Mount, gave utterance, more richly, truly, deeply,
+than any writer of his generation, of man's delight in the Creator
+s work. The association of his name with his beloved lake country
+is imperishable. Many years ago De Quincey wrote, with reference
+to Wordsworth's earlier poems, "The very names of the ancient
+hills--Fairfield, Seat Sandal, Helvellyn, Blen-cathara, Glaramara; the
+names of the sequestered glens--such as Borrowdale, Martindale, Mardale,
+Wastdale, and Ennerdale; but, above all, the shy pastoral recesses,
+not garishly in the world's eye, like Windermere or Der-wentwater,
+but lurking half unknown to the traveller of that day--Grasmere, for
+instance, the lovely abode of the poet himself, solitary, and yet
+sowed, as it were, with a thin diffusion of humble dwellings--here a
+scattering, and there a clustering, as in the starry heavens--sufficient
+to afford, at every turn and angle, human remembrances and memorials of
+time-honoured affections, or of passions (as the 'Churchyard amongst
+the Mountains' will amply demonstrate), not wanting even in scenic and
+tragical interest--these were so many local spells upon me, equally
+poetic and elevating with the Miltonic names of Valdarno and
+Vallombrosa." *
+
+     * Works, vol. ii. p. 124.
+
+[Illustration: 9168]
+
+The spell remains, though some of the aspects of the scenery have
+changed. Grasmere, for instance, is no longer a "shy pastoral recess,"
+but the stream of life that daily pours through the valley cannot impair
+its beauty. This of all the lakes possesses, when the wind is still,
+the supreme charm of perfect stillness and transparency. We have seen
+it when it was absolutely impossible to distinguish its richly-wooded
+banks, or the island near its centre, from their reflection in the
+unrippled water. The unclouded blue of the heavens was mirrored, as in
+fathomless depths. It was a "sea of glass like unto crystal." It may be
+hoped that this loveliness will be uninvaded by anything which would mar
+its perfection. We know that Wordsworth pathetically protested against
+the invasion of the railway; but on the height which the Windermere
+station occupies, at the very portal of this beautiful land, it in no
+degree interferes with the enjoyment of the scenery, while facilitating
+the access of multitudes who could not otherwise share the delight. The
+railway station at the foot of the lake, that on the border of Coniston,
+and even that at Keswick, are, so to speak, outside the magic circle;
+but we can fully sympathise with Mr. Ruskin and others who have employed
+such strenuous efforts to resist every threatened or possible inroad.
+The very compactness of the region, and the ease with which, when once
+reached, it may be traversed throughout, might lead the most impatient
+traveller to be satisfied with the existing means of swift access. When
+the border is gained, let him proceed leisurely, and enjoy. If young,
+the stagecoach travelling, which is here so common, may yield him an
+unfamiliar, though old-fashioned kind of delight. To judge from our
+own youthful recollections, as well as from the literature of a past
+generation, there was, in favourable circumstances of scenery and
+weather, an exhilaration in such journeys which never is or can be known
+in the rapid rush through railway cuttings, and over high embankments,
+behind the "Erebus" or "Phlegethon," at the rate of fifty miles an hour!
+And many an elderly or middle-aged man almost unconsciously exults in
+the renewal of his youth in that grand coach-drive from Windermere over
+Dunmail Raise to Keswick.
+
+[Illustration: 0169]
+
+But we return for a moment to the personal associations of this region.
+Southey has often been classed with Wordsworth as belonging to a school
+of "Lake Poets." Nothing could be more erroneous, as De Quincey pointed
+out long ago. It is true that these poets both lived by the lakes;
+but there is no sense in which they can be described as of the same
+"school." In fact, they are curiously unlike in many of their chief
+characteristics; although they esteemed each other truly; and very
+noble are the lines which Wordsworth has dedicated to the memory of his
+friend:
+
+     "Wide were his aims; yet in no human breast
+     Could private feelings find a holier nest.
+     His joys, his griefs, have vanished like a cloud
+     From Skiddaw's top; but he to heaven was vowed,
+     Through a life long and pure, and Christian faith
+     Calmed in his soul the fear of change and death." *
+
+     * From the Epitaph on Southey, by Wordsworth, in Crosthwaite
+     Church, Keswick.
+
+[Illustration: 0170]
+
+Other names arise to mind. Close under Orrest Head was Elleray, once
+the beautiful home of Professor Wilson, the "Christopher North" whose
+"recreations" were to describe, in language of a rich and gorgeous
+luxuriance which the present generation is scarcely able to enjoy, but
+which the readers of a past age dwelt upon with rapture, the glories of
+mountain, lake, and sky. Fox How and the Knoll, between Windermere
+and Rydal Water, bring to mind two very different names, each of great
+influence in their generation. At the former, Dr. Arnold, of Rugby,
+passed his happy vacations; in the latter, Miss Harriet Martineau
+endeavoured--with what success we attempt not here to judge--to work out
+her theory of life. The name of Coleridge also connects itself with this
+region; not of the philosophic teacher and wonderful talker, though we
+have known the mistake to be made by people well informed. Samuel Taylor
+Coleridge, as Carlyle says, "sat on Highgate Hill having left the lakes
+for the great city, never to return." It was his son Hartley whose
+brilliant gifts, in their fitful and broken splendour, have caused the
+name of Coleridge to be remembered, and repeated with pitying affection,
+all through the Grasmere Vale.
+
+[Illustration: 0171]
+
+We turn reluctantly from this world of beauty, happy in the remembrance
+of what we have seen and felt, happier perhaps that so much remains
+unvisited in a region where every by-way and secluded dell has its own
+peculiar loveliness, and that we may hope to return again and yet again
+to explore its wonders. For the mountain climber, are there not Great
+Gable, Bowfell, Fairfield, Pillar Mountain in Ennerdale, steepest of
+all, Blen-cathara, otherwise Saddleback, with its unequalled view of
+Derwentwater, and Coniston Old Man, with its grand prospects over land
+and sea? These six are scarcely inferior in height to the imperial
+three,* whose names and forms are most familiar. Then the Langdales
+should be climbed; one or both, as a position below the loftiest in a
+mountain land affords the best point of view from which to apprehend the
+grandeur of the surrounding hills. And after the greater lakes have been
+duly visited, what wealth of hidden beauty is there in those retired
+valleys, where rivulets suddenly expand into fair still sheets of
+water, reflecting the mountains at whose base they lie; and what lonely
+grandeur in the tarns high among the hills, rarely visited by human
+foot, and, like Scales Tarn on Blencathara, so surrounded by wild crags
+as hardly ever to admit the sunlight! Excursion after excursion may be
+made, not only by the angler, but by those who have no taste for such
+sport, to these lofty miniature lakes.
+
+[Illustration: 9171]
+
+Or, if the tourist delights in waterfalls, let him seek out Dungeon
+Ghyll in Langdale, or go up behind the inn at Ambleside to Stock Ghyll,
+or stop on his way through the valley to admire the two picturesque
+Falls at Rydal, or ramble through Gowbarrow Park, near Ullswater, as far
+as Airey or Ara Force, which "by Lyulph's Tower speaks from the woody
+glen," or let him make a special excursion to Eskdale to see Stanley
+Ghyll, described by some tourists as the most beautiful of all. The
+beauty of these cascades, and of others less famed, arises not from the
+volume of water, but from the picturesqueness of the glens in which they
+lie; these being, in almost every case, deep and narrow fissures in the
+rock, covered with ferns, mosses and shrubs in the utmost luxuriance.
+The varied tints of the rocks and of the foliage by which they are
+clothed give richness of colouring to the picture; and when the sunlight
+falls upon the dashing spray, and rainbow tints hang over the fall, the
+surpassing loveliness of the scene is even enhanced by the smallness of
+its scale.
+
+It would hardly be possible to omit, in any notice of the Lake district,
+however incomplete, a reference to the great uncertainty of the weather.
+In the deeper valleys, especially, as Wastdale and Buttermere, the
+traveller is often sorely disappointed by incessant rain. Yet even
+this has its compensation in the increased translucency of the air,
+the beauty of the mountain streams and cascades, with the incomparable
+splendours of the parting clouds, when the sunlight has smitten them
+apart, and their white trains vanishing up the mountain-side are as the
+robes of angels. When the summer airs elsewhere are stifling, and the
+ground is parched, the effect of the frequent mists and showers is fully
+seen. For then the whole lake country is as green as an emerald; and,
+except in the deepest valleys, the wearied brain and limbs are refreshed
+by stimulating mountain airs. Such seasons perhaps are the best for a
+visit to the Lakes; but they are beautiful in winter too, when the snows
+linger on the heights, and in the early spring, when the greensward is
+carpeted with wild flowers, and in the autumn, when the purple, gold,
+and crimson clothe the woods in a royal array, while the withered Reaves
+elsewhere strew all the ground. "Those only know our country," say the
+dwellers among the lakes, "who live here all the year round." Be it
+so. It is good to carry in memory, into the busy, more prosaic walks of
+life, the glimpse, if it be no more, of all this beauty; and, after
+all, it is the "still sad music of humanity" that thrills the soul more
+deeply than the music of the whispering woods, or of the torrent down
+the mountain side. It was the Poet of the Lakes and Mountains who closed
+one of the noblest of his odes by the words:
+
+     "Thanks to the human heart by which we live,
+     Thanks to its tenderness, its joys, its fears;
+     To me, the meanest flower that blows can give
+     Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears."
+
+[Illustration: 0174]
+
+
+
+
+THE EASTERN COUNTIES
+
+[Illustration: 0175]
+
+|John Foster quaintly says that "the characteristic of genius is, that
+it can light its own fire:" he might have added that it can provide its
+own fuel. Mere talent is mainly dependent upon adventitious aids and
+favourable circumstances, whilst genius can work with the clumsiest
+tools and the most intractable materials. The magnificent scenery of
+Switzerland and the Scotch Highlands has produced no artist or poet of
+the first rank. The featureless landscape of Holland or of East
+Anglia sufficed for Cuyp or Hobbema, or Ruysdael, for Gainsborough
+or Constable, or Old: Crome. The quiet loveliness of Warwickshire was
+enough for Shakspere's genius. Milton had seen the glories of the Alps
+and Apennines, but Buckinghamshire furnished the subject-matter of
+_L'Allegro_ and _Il Penseroso_. The dreary flats of Bedfordshire and
+Huntingdonshire cease to be dull and prosaic in Cowper s verse.
+
+The themes of Tennyson's earlier poems were drawn from the fens and
+meres and melancholy swamps of Lincolnshire. The truth is, that the eye
+makes its own pictures, and sees just what it has the power of seeing.
+
+     "O Lady! we receive but what we give,
+     And in our life alone does nature live:
+     Ours is her wedding-garment, ours her shroud!
+     And would we aught behold, of higher worth,
+     Than that inanimate cold world allowed
+     To the poor, loveless, ever-anxious crowd,
+     Ah! from the soul itself must issue forth
+     A light, a glory, a fair luminous cloud
+     Enveloping the Earth--
+     And from the soul itself must there be sent
+     A sweet and potent voice, of its own birth,
+     Of all sweet sounds the life and element."*
+
+     * Coleridge's Sybilline Leaves.
+
+[Illustration: 0176]
+
+It must, however, be confessed that it would be difficult at the present
+day to find poetry or beauty in the Fen country. The meres have been
+drained, the swamps have been reclaimed. The profusion of aquatic plants
+and wild-fowl has disappeared. Whittlesea Mere and Ramsey-Mere have been
+brought under the plough. Even the picturesque old windmills have given
+place to the hideous chimney-shafts of pumping stations worked by steam.
+We may almost parody the famous chapter of Olaus Magnus on "Snakes in
+Iceland," and say--there are no fens in the fen country. If we would
+know what the fens were once like, we must, read some of Tennyson's
+earlier poems, or better still perhaps, one of Kingsley's prose Idylls:
+
+"A certain sadness is pardonable to one who watches the destruction of a
+grand natural phenomenon, even though its destruction bring blessings to
+the human race. Reason and conscience tell us, that it is right and good
+that the Great Fen should have become, instead of a waste and howling
+wilderness, a garden of the Lord, where
+
+     'All the land in flowery squares,
+     Beneath a broad and equal-blowing wind,
+     Smell of the coming summer.'
+
+And yet the fancy may linger, without blame, over the shining meres,
+the golden reed-beds, the countless water-fowl, the strange and gaudy
+insects, the wild nature, the mystery, the majesty--for mystery and
+majesty there were--which haunted the deep fens for many a hundred
+years. Little thinks the Scotsman, whirled down by the Great Northern
+Railway from Peterborough to Huntingdon, what a grand place, even twenty
+years ago, was that Holme and Whittlesea which is now but a black,
+unsightly, steaming flat, from which the meres and reed-beds of the old
+world are gone, while the corn and roots of the new world have not as
+yet taken their place.
+
+[Illustration: 0177]
+
+"But grand enough it was, that black ugly place, when backed by Caistor
+Hanglands and Holme Wood, and the patches of the primeval forest; while
+dark-green alders, and pale-green reeds, stretched for miles round the
+broad lagoon, where the coot clanked, and the bittern boomed, and the
+sedge-bird, not content with its own sweet song, mocked the notes of all
+the birds around; while high overhead hung motionless hawk beyond hawk,
+buzzard beyond buzzard, kite beyond kite, as far as the eye could see.
+Far off, upon the silver mere, would rise a puff of smoke from a punt,
+invisible from its flatness and its white paint. Then down the wind came
+the boom of the great stanchion-gun; and after that sound another sound,
+louder as it neared; a cry as of all the bells of Cambridge, and all
+the hounds of Cottesmore; and overhead rushed and whirled the skein of
+terrified wildfowl, screaming, piping, clacking, croaking, filling the
+air with the hoarse rattle of their wings, while clear above all sounded
+the wild whistle of the curlew, and the trumpet note of the great wild
+swan.
+
+[Illustration: 9178]
+
+"They are all gone now. No longer do the ruffs trample the sedge into a
+hard floor in their fighting-rings, while the sober reeves stand round
+admiring the tournament of their lovers, gay with ears and tippets,
+no two of them alike. Gone are ruffs and reeves, spoonbills, bitterns,
+avosets; the very snipe, one hears, disdains to breed. Gone, too, not
+only from Whittlesea but from the whole world, is that most exquisite
+of English butterflies, _Lycaena dispar_--the great copper; and many a
+curious insect more. Ah, well, at least we shall have wheat and mutton
+instead, and no more typhus and ague; and, it is to be hoped, no more
+brandy-drinking and opium-eating; and children will live and not die.
+For it was a hard place to live in, the old Fen; a place wherein one
+heard of 'unexampled instances of longevity,' for the same reason that
+one hears of them in savage tribes--that few lived to old age at all,
+save those iron constitutions which nothing could break down." *
+
+     * Prose Idylls, New and Old, by Rev. Charles Kingsley.
+
+One of the most characteristic walks in the Fen country is that from
+Peakirk (St. Pega Kirk), a station on the Peterborough and Spalding
+line, to Crowland. The road runs along the top of a high bank, raised so
+as to be above the reach of the inundations. On either hand a flat and
+dreary plain stretches to the horizon. It is intersected by ditches
+filled with black stagnant water and fringed by aquatic plants, amongst
+which the yellow iris is prominent. Here and there a farm-house,
+approached by an avenue of pollard-willows, and surrounded by a few
+acres of well-cultivated land, breaks in upon the monotony of the scene.
+Elsewhere the vegetation is rank and coarse but abundant, upon which
+droves of horses and cattle thrive. A perpetual chorus of croaking from
+innumerable frogs in the marshes accompanies the pedestrian on his way,
+to which the sweet notes of the sedge-warbler and other small birds form
+an exquisite accompaniment.
+
+[Illustration: 0180]
+
+In the winter, when the fens are flooded and frozen over, the scene is
+one of rare interest and excitement. The clear sharp ring of the skates
+on the ice, the merry shouts of the skaters, the stir and bustle of a
+district usually so dull and stagnant, the feats of agility and skill
+displayed by a peasantry to skate a mile in two minutes, but without
+success, though he is said to have only exceeded the two minutes by two
+seconds.
+
+[Illustration: 8181]
+
+The ordinary pace of a fast skater is one mile in three and a half
+or four minutes." He who is so fortunate as to see one of the great
+skating-revels of these eastern counties under the glowing light of
+a sunrise or a sunset will not easily forget it--for the sunrises and
+sunsets of the Fen country are of incomparable splendour. It is an error
+to suppose that the dry pure atmosphere of Southern Europe is favourable
+to these magnificent effects of colour. Some of the finest sunsets I
+have ever seen have been when walking westward along Oxford Street on a
+frosty evening. The clouds of smoke and mist hanging over the great city
+have become suffused with a glory of crimson and purple and amber with
+which no Italian sky can compare. So in the Fen country, the clouds and
+fogs driven inland from the sea, and the humid vapours exhaled from the
+soil, glow with all imaginable hues in the light of the setting sun. The
+cold colourless landscape reflects the radiance and is tinged with the
+colours of the sky; the skaters as they glide swiftly past through the
+golden haze seem like actors in some fairy spectacle.
+
+[Illustration: 0182]
+
+Before the reclamation of the fens, the swamps and meres which covered
+so large a portion of the soil were the haunt of innumerable wild fowl,
+which were the source of considerable profit to the fensmen. Of late
+years their numbers have greatly diminished, but the London market is
+still largely supplied from this district. Flat-bottomed boats screened
+by reeds so as to resemble floating islands are fitted with heavy
+duck-guns, from a single discharge of which dozens of birds sometimes
+fall. One of the best duck-decoys remaining in East Anglia lies at a
+short distance from the road midway between Peakirk and Crowland. A
+small mere a few acres in extent forms the scene of operations. From
+this run eight ditches, or "pipes," as they are locally called, ten
+or twelve feet wide at the entrance, and about a hundred feet long,
+diminishing to a narrow gutter at the end. They curve round so that only
+a small part of the whole is visible from any point. They are inclosed
+by walls of matted reeds and roofed over by nets. Tame ducks are trained
+to lead the way into the mouths of the pipes, and are followed by
+the wild fowl. Little dogs, of a white or red colour, enter the pipes
+through holes made in the reed screens, gambol about inside for a minute
+or two, come out again, and again show themselves a little higher up
+the pipe. The wild fowl, though easily alarmed, are very curious and
+inquisitive. They swim or fly forward to investigate this strange
+phenomenon till they have gone too far to recede, when the net closes
+upon them, and the whole flock is taken.
+
+[Illustration: 0183]
+
+In the days of yore, when this district resembled a great lake studded
+with numerous islands fringed with willow groves, it was the seat
+of numerous ecclesiastical establishments of great wealth and
+influence--Peterborough, Crowland, Ely, Thorney, Spalding, Ramsey and
+others. The insulated sites were favourable to the seclusion of the
+cloister, the patches of land were exceedingly fertile, and the water
+abounded with fish and wild fowl. On one of these Fen islands rose the
+great Abbey of Crowland, the ruins of which come into view some miles
+before we reach it. Its foundation goes back to Saxon times, and it was
+repeatedly sacked by the Danes. Turketul, grandson of King Alfred, who
+through four successive reigns had rendered important services to the
+nation by his valour in the field and his wisdom in counsel, returning
+from a journey to the North, found the abbey a ruin. Of the once
+flourishing community only three monks remained to tell the story of
+the massacre of their brethren and the destruction of their abbey by
+the invaders. They accommodated their illustrious visitor to the best
+of their ability amongst the fire-scathed walls of the church, and
+entreated his intercession with the king for assistance. The interview
+made a deep impression on his mind, and, reaching home, he astonished
+his royal master by avowing his intention to become a monk. Accordingly
+he caused proclamation to be made by public crier that he was anxious
+to discharge his debts, and if he had wronged any man would restore
+fourfold. Resigning all his offices, Turketul repaired to the Fens,
+devoted himself to the rebuilding of the abbey and the restoration of
+its fallen fortunes, became abbot, and there spent the remainder of his
+days.
+
+[Illustration: 9184]
+
+A curious structure, known as Crowland Bridge, which stands in the
+centre of the town, has greatly perplexed archaeologists, and given rise
+to various legends. It consists of three semi-arches whose bases stand
+equi-dis-tant from each other in the circumference of a circle and unite
+in the centre. At the foot of one of the arches is a mutilated statue,
+apparently holding an orb in the right hand. Local tradition declares
+that three rivers ran through the three arches into an immense pit dug
+to receive them, and that the statue represents Oliver Cromwell with a
+penny roll in his hand! The most probable explanation of the remarkable
+structure is that it was a high cross built to form a trysting-place for
+the fens-men, who, when the Fens were flooded, might bring hither their
+produce for sale in boats, and that the figure is St. Guthlac, the
+founder and patron of the abbey.
+
+If East Anglia possesses little natural beauty, it is rich in historical
+associations. Reference has already been made to the many noble ruins
+of ancient ecclesiastical buildings throughout the Fen country. Their
+traditional reputation has been handed down in an old rhyming legend:
+
+     "Ramsey, the rich of gold and of fee,
+     Thorney, the flower of many a fair tree,
+     Crowland, the courteous of their meat and drink,
+     Spalding, the gluttons, as all men do think,
+     Peterborough the proud, as all men do say,
+     Sawtrey, by the way, that old abbey,
+     Gave more alms in one day than all they."
+
+[Illustration: 0185]
+
+It maybe doubted whether in any part of the world four such cathedrals
+can be found in the same compass as Lincoln, Peterborough, Ely, and
+Norwich. And it is certain that with the single and doubtful exception
+of Oxford, no such magnificent collection of collegiate edifices exists
+as those of Cambridge. "That long street which, beginning from the
+Trumpington Road, skirts the magnificent Fitzwilliam Museum and the Pitt
+Press; which passes by ancient Peterhouse and quaint St. Catherine on
+one side; which is there known as King's Road and fronts the glories of
+King's College, the Senate House, the Library, and Caius College; which
+then in a darkening and narrow street, almost a very gorge, skirts the
+old historic gateways of Trinity and St. John's, and afterwards emerges
+past the chapel which is the latest architectural glory of Cambridge,
+opposite the venerable round church and near the new buildings of the
+Union--certainly in its long broken wavering line, this street may enter
+into formidable competition with the High Street of Oxford or any of the
+streets of the world.
+
+[Illustration: 0186]
+
+There are, moreover, several distinct features in which Cambridge is
+unsurpassable. The wide silent old court of Trinity, with its babbling
+fountain; the glorious structure of King's College; above all, that
+exquisite scenery, a composition made up of many varying beauties known
+as the "backs of the colleges are separate features to which Oxford can
+hardly offer a parallel. As an Oxford poet has said:--
+
+     "Ah me! were ever river banks so fair,
+     Gardens so fit for nightingales as these?
+     Were ever haunts so meet for summer breeze,
+     Or pensive walk in evening's golden air?
+     Was ever town so rich in court and tower
+     To woo and win stray moonlight every hour?" *
+
+     * From Oxford and Cambridge, their Memories and
+     Associations. Religious Tract Society.
+
+[Illustration: 0188]
+
+Among the cities of East Anglia, Norwich claims special mention. Though
+a local couplet declares that--
+
+     "Caistor was a city when Norwich was none.
+     And Norwich was builded with Caistor stone."
+
+[Illustration: 8189]
+
+Yet the _parvenu_ upstart goes back to the time of the Roman occupation
+of the island. It was the capital of the Saxon kingdom of East Anglia,
+and for many centuries afterwards it held a prominent place in our
+history. So early as the reign of Edward III. it was one of the great
+centres of our manufacturing industry; the Flemish settlers having
+here introduced or developed the woollen trade. In pre-reformation days
+it was a stronghold of the Wyckliffites or Lollards, many of whom here
+sealed their testimony with their blood. In 1531, Thomas Bilney was
+added to the list of worthies who make up the Norwich Martyrology.
+Probably no other provincial town in England has given so many eminent
+names to the literature, science, and art of our country, from
+Sir Thomas Browne, author of the _Religio Medici_, down to Harriet
+Martineau. Even apart from these interesting associations, Norwich
+itself deserves and will well repay a visit.
+
+[Illustration: 9189]
+
+Surrounded by wooded slopes and pleasant meadows and winding streams,
+its streets full of quaint picturesque architecture, and dominated by
+its noble castle and cathedral, few or none of our English cities offer
+a more pleasing combination of urban and rural beauty.
+
+The tourist in search of the picturesque in East Anglia will do well to
+include Yarmouth among his wanderings.
+
+Its surroundings indeed are as flat and uninteresting as possible. The
+readers of David Copperfield will remember his description: "As we drew
+a little nearer and saw the whole adjacent prospect lying in a straight
+line under the sky, I hinted to Peggotty that a mound or so might have
+improved it; and also that if the land had been a little more separated
+from the sea, and that the town and the tide had not been quite so mixed
+up like toast and water, it would have been nicer. But Peggotty said
+with greater emphasis than usual, that we must take things as we found
+them; and that for her part she was proud to call herself a Yarmouth
+Bloater."
+
+[Illustration: 0190]
+
+But the town is a curious combination of English bustle and Dutch
+quaintness. Its quay reminds the traveller of the Boomptjies of
+Rotterdam; its "rows," only a few feet wide, with a narrow riband of
+sky overhead, recall the narrow streets of Genoa; its vast fleet of
+herring-boats discharging their silvery "harvest of the sea" at the
+wharves, offer a spectacle almost unique in the world. Unlike Norwich
+and many other neighbouring towns, Yarmouth has been the scene of no
+important event in our history, nor has it contributed any illustrious
+name to our list of worthies. A stained glass window in the parish
+church, however, perpetuates the earthly memory of one whom Scripture
+declares shall be "had in everlasting remembrance"--Sarah Martin, the
+prison visitor. She was a poor dressmaker, without wealth or social
+position, earning with difficulty a scanty subsistence by her needle,
+yet doing a work comparable to that of John Howard or of Elizabeth
+Fry. The great lesson of her life has been admirably inculcated by an
+eloquent American preacher:
+
+[Illustration: 8191]
+
+"Here, on a lowly bed, in an English village by the sea,--fades out the
+earthly life of one of God's humblest but noblest servants. Worn with
+the patient care of deserted prisoners and malefactors in the town gaol
+for twenty-four years of unthanked service, earning her bread with
+her hands, and putting songs of worship on the lips of these penitent
+criminals,--Bible and Prayer-book in his feeble hand, saying, at the
+end, 'I have been the happiest of men, yet I feel that death will be
+gain to me, through Christ who died for me.'
+
+[Illustration: 9191]
+
+"Blessed be God for the manifold features of triumphant faith!--that He
+suffers His children to walk toward Him through ways so various in their
+outward look--Sarah Martin; from her cottage bed, Earl Spencer from his
+gorgeous couch, little children in their innocence, unpretending women
+in the quiet ministrations of faithful love, strong and useful and
+honoured men, whom suffering households and institutions and churches
+mourn. All bending their faces towards the Everlasting Light, in one
+faith, one cheering hope, called by one Lord, who has overcome the
+world, and dieth no more! The sun sets; the autumn fades; life hastens
+with us all. But we stand yet in our Master's vineyard. All the days of
+our appointed time let us labour righteously, and pray and wait, till
+our change come, that we may change only from virtue to virtue, from
+faith to faith, and thus from glory to glory!"
+
+[Illustration: 0192]
+
+[Illustration: 0194]
+
+
+
+
+ROUND ABOUT SOME INDUSTRIAL, CENTRES.
+
+[Illustration: 0195]
+
+|IT is not to the manufacturing districts of England that the traveller
+in search of the picturesque would most naturally repair. To him they
+are often a region of tall chimneys and squalid-looking habitations,
+with a canopy of smoke above and black refuse of coal and iron on the
+banks of polluted rivers below. Something of this impression is due to
+the economy of railway companies, which, for the most part, have chosen
+to enter great towns by their least attractive suburbs, where land is
+cheapest. Hence, it is not from the carriage-windows of the train that
+Leeds or Sheffield, Wolverhampton, Birmingham, or Manchester should be
+judged. The traveller who will alight and explore may find a wealth of
+natural beauty which would astonish him.
+
+Nowhere, perhaps, is the contrast--due chiefly, no doubt, to geological
+structure--more apparent than on the edge of the "Black Country"
+in Staffordshire. From Dudley Castle the views are more curiously
+contrasted than in almost any other part of England. By night the whole
+country is lighted up on one side by the flames from the furnaces, which
+cover the country for many miles. By day the din of hammers and
+the clank of wheels, the roar of traffic and the shriek of the
+steam-whistles surge up, through the pall of smoke, upon the ear.
+Descend, and between the ironworks and coalpits the ground is unsightly
+with refuse heaps, while its frequent inequalities, and the bending,
+tottering buildings, show it to be honeycombed with mines. Vegetation
+is rare; what there is, is blackened and stunted; black also are the
+outsides of churches, chapels, schools. For inhabitants of such a
+district to gain any sense of natural beauty, they must be able at
+frequent intervals to escape; and, happily, to do this is within the
+reach of most. Railway communication with every part of England is
+constant and easy; and to know the difference that a few miles' journey
+will make in the scene, one has only to reascend to Dudley Castle, where
+it lies in the midst of its fair wooded domain.. Look from it to the
+north, east, or south, and all is smoke and flame; but turn to the west,
+and though the traces of unresting labour are still discernible, they
+soon give way to a country of richly diversified charm: glimpses are
+obtained of the beautiful valley of the Severn, the Wrekin towers
+grandly not many miles away, and the Malvern hills are dim and blue in
+the distance.
+
+In other manufacturing centres, if the contrast is not so marked, yet
+there is a similar accessibility to many a sequestered and lovely scene.
+The nearness of the wildest and grandest Derbyshire scenery to busy,
+unromantic Manchester has been pointed out in a previous chapter; and
+the neighbourhood of the great Yorkshire centres of industry is full of
+picturesque beauty. A little way out of Leeds, for instance, where the
+Liverpool Canal passes over an embankment near to the river Aire, may
+be found the scene of one of Turner's most charming sketches; and though
+the locality bears evident marks of the great industrial invasion, much
+of the beauty still remains. In the same valley, not far off, are the
+stately ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, while the broad reach of river that
+encloses it, and the green meadows on the bank, with the low wooded
+heights on either side of the valley, suggest the memories of a day when
+the surroundings of the old ecclesiastical building were such as the
+monks most dearly loved; while Esholt Hall, some few miles higher up
+the river, at the extremity of a noble avenue of elm trees, was, in
+its time, a nunnery on low-lying ground, circled by an amphitheatre of
+hills, in a vale even now rich and beautiful, and which once must have
+seemed the very abode of tranquillity and peace.
+
+It is, indeed, no small boon to the artizans of Leeds, Bradford, and
+many other crowded hives of industry in this part of England, that they
+are within so easy a distance of scenes which, in natural beauty, may
+vie with almost any in the land. Ivirkstall, as we have said, is close
+by the former town; and its grounds are thronged on every holiday by
+busy workers, who, whether intent or not on learning the appropriate
+lesson from the mouldering walls and tower, are at least fully alive to
+the advantages of fresh air, and of wide scope and range for healthful
+amusement. The like may be said of other places, lying only a little
+further off. There is Roundhay Park, for instance, one of the most
+splendid domains in England, now, through the wise liberality of the
+Leeds Corporation, the property of the people; while the public parks
+of many other towns, as Bradford, Halifax, Barnsley, with Manchester,
+Liverpool, Blackburn, gratify not only the instinct for recreation, but
+the desire for beauty.
+
+[Illustration: 0197]
+
+Or again, our traveller, in his pause at Leeds, may take the opportunity
+of visiting Ilkley, with its fine open moorland, where the brain-wearied
+worker may range at will. Then, a little way beyond Ilkley, lie the fair
+woods and noble heights encircling Bolton Abbey, where the Wharfe comes
+down, as yet unpolluted, from the moorland beyond; while the form of the
+White Doe of Rylstone, or the memory of the ill-fated heir of Egremont,
+seems yet to haunt the scene.
+
+A little further again, our astonished friend comes upon a _Clapham
+Junction_, but it is amid the silence of the hills! Ingleborough, with
+its marvellous caves, too little known, with its companion heights,
+Pen-y-gant and Whernside, rise from the valley: and every path is full
+of beauty, especially that which leads into the heart of Craven, where
+bold limestone scars, deep glens, and upland moors, with one deep,
+lonely tarn, dear alike to dreamers and to anglers, yield a succession
+of pictures, of which, among their many charms, not the least is their
+easy accessibility from the neighbourhood of clanking mills and inky
+streams. For Ilkley, Bolton, Harrogate, Craven, Clapham may all be
+reached by the busy worker of Leeds or Bradford, and much of their
+beauty enjoyed, in the leisure of a summer Saturday afternoon, or on a
+"Bank holiday." He who would be free from excursionists, with their loud
+talk, their demonstrative ways, their baskets and their bottles, must go
+another time; but even in those holiday-hours there is much to interest.
+The "trippers" may be an interruption to the dreamer, an annoyance to
+the sensitive; but it is good that people whose lives are usually so
+hard-pressed and monotonous should have the means of ennobling enjoyment
+within easy reach; and though occasionally there may be an element of
+roughness or even intemperance in the recreation, we should be unjust
+were we not to record our impression, from what we have often seen,
+that there is a decided improvement in these respects, and that the free
+access to hill and moor, to fine scenery and pure air, has its part in
+checking those vices which spring up like evil weeds in the unwholesome
+dwellings of a crowded population.
+
+[Illustration: 0198]
+
+The "Excursion Season," no doubt, has its drawbacks in Lancashire,
+Yorkshire, London, and everywhere else. There are holidays that depress
+rather than invigorate: the spirit of self-indulgence may adopt the
+pretext of needed recreation, and the Lord's day is too often heedlessly
+or wilfully disregarded; but on the whole it is good that God's fair
+world should be thrown open to all who can enjoy its beauties; and that,
+as we have seen, some of its richest beauties should lie at the very
+threshold of the hardest workers in the most unromantic scenes.
+
+[Illustration: 8199]
+
+The topic is almost inexhaustible; and the selection of places to be
+visited in reasonable time, from these "centres of industry," would be
+invidious to make. A little way beyond Leeds, as every one knows, lies
+Harrogate, the high table-land where medicinal waters have for long
+generations given to the place the fame of a true "city of Hygeia,"
+while we ourselves would still give the chief credit to the
+invigorating, stimulating air, and to the almost inexhaustible interest
+of the neighbourhood, occupying the mind of the visitor with a round of
+healthful delights. The visit to Studley Park and Fountains Abbey
+will probably rank among the chief of these. Again, as in the cases of
+Kirkstall and Bolton, reverting to the past, we admire the taste and
+wisdom shown by the cowled brotherhoods in mediæval times, in their
+choice of dwelling-places. Something, indeed, of the beauty which we now
+see may have been the result of their assiduous culture. It was part
+of their work to "make the wilderness to smile;" but they had a rare
+faculty for lighting upon scenes which, if not already beautiful,
+possessed an evident capability for becoming so. At Fountains
+both nature and art seem to vie with each other; and in the modern
+arrangement of the domain, the art may occasionally be the more
+apparent. The artistic yields to the artificial; the ruins have been
+maintained at the due stage of picturesqueness by careful oversight and
+repair; and the carefully prepared "surprise," which awaits the visitor
+at one stage of his progress through the grounds, is too theatrical to
+permit even one of the fairest of pictures to have its full effect. But,
+perhaps, all this is hypercritical, and, with every deduction, this old
+Cistercian abbey is one of the most beautiful, as it is one of the most
+complete mediæval monastic buildings in England. The tower, unlike that
+of its sister abbey at Kirkstall, is little impaired by the ravages
+of time, the plan of the edifice is easy to be traced; and the light
+pillars and lofty arches of the Ladye Chapel give to the whole a
+finishing touch of stateliness and grace. Then how pleasant to wander
+through the noble avenues of Studley, to gaze upwards to the gigantic
+spruce firs, or to climb the mound where linger the decaying forms of
+the rugged yew trees--remnants, it is said, of the "seven sisters" that
+spread their shade over the founders of the abbey, more than six hundred
+years ago!
+
+[Illustration: 9200]
+
+Still pursuing our way northwards, we reach the country of the Yorkshire
+Dales, where the Swale, passing by Richmond, the Tees, on the edge of
+Durham, and many smaller streams, descend from the eastern slope of the
+Westmoreland moors. Both abound in wild and charming scenery: the upper
+Tees-dale especially is singularly impressive. The river runs in
+its deep rocky bed through alpine-looking green meadows, with clean
+whitewashed cottages scattered here and there. Trees there are few or
+none, except a small kind of fir; and in place of hedges, low stone
+walls mark the boundaries of the fields. About five or six miles
+below its source, there forms the striking waterfall "High Force,"
+tumbling over a black basaltic precipice, fifty feet high; while yet
+higher up the stream, where it issues from a gloomy tarn on the edge
+of the Westmoreland moors, descending for some two hundred feet over a
+steep, irregular staircase, so to speak, of basalt, the weird wildness
+of the scene, in the midst of its hilly amphitheatre, approaches
+sublimity. Caldron Snout is the quaint name of this unique rapid, and
+the curious in geology, as well as the lover of the picturesque, will be
+well repaid by a visit.
+
+But by this time we have wandered some distance from our manufacturing
+centres. If, however, we have left the Yorkshire district behind, we are
+approaching the yet more black and busy coal districts.
+
+[Illustration: 0201]
+
+Teesdale itself has two sets of associations, and the same stream, whose
+rocks and dales are so romantic in its earlier course, becomes, by
+the time it reaches Stockton, a broad and inky flood, and so passes
+by Middlesborough--that wonderfully progressive seat of the iron
+manufacture--to the sea. We now pass on from town to town along the
+coast, each busier, blacker than the last, but with glimpses of rich
+beauty between, while the city of Durham, as seen from the rail, is one
+of the noblest views of rock and river, cathedral, castle, and town, on
+which the traveller's eye has ever rested. This river is the Weir;
+then the Tyne is reached, and Newcastle, the "capital of the north," is
+entered over its splendid High-Level Bridge.
+
+We can imagine no better route for a pedestrian excursion than the way
+from Denton Hall to Thirlwall Castle--about thirty-four miles; or, if
+the tourist wishes to see the whole, let him put Dr. Bruce's Condensed
+Guide and an Ordnance map into his knapsack, devote a week to the
+exploration, and proceed by leisurely stages from Wallsend, on the Tyne,
+to Bowness, on the Solway, a distance of seventy-three miles and a half.
+
+But our chief object in visiting these great centres of industry is to
+explore their neighbourhoods. Few towns in England are better worth a
+prolonged visit than Newcastle-upon-Tyne; but its attraction to us now
+is, that we can, at so short a distance from its busy streets, place
+ourselves amid rural scenes of surpassing interest, as well on their own
+account as for their historical associations.
+
+[Illustration: 0202]
+
+First and foremost, of course, there is the Roman Wall, with its long
+line of remains, still magnificent, and so varied from place to place,
+while the scenery that surrounds them is so striking, that sea to sea
+classic ground.
+
+[Illustration: 0203]
+
+A stranger might suppose that, after the lapse of long centuries, all
+these works, granting their existence once, must have disappeared. It is
+not so: save in the western portion, there is scarcely an acre without
+distinct traces; in many places all the lines sweep on together, parts
+in wondrous preservation; while many of the recent excavations present
+structures several feet high, giving one the idea of works in progress,
+so fresh that we are tempted to think of the builders as away but for an
+hour, perhaps to the noonday meal. To traverse the line of the wall is
+to pass along one continuous platform, whence the visitor revels in a
+succession of glorious panoramas.
+
+Returning to the busy east coast, very charming is the transition from
+the Tyne to the Coquet, loveliest of Northumbrian streams, as it flows
+down, interesting glimpses into the past opened up at every stage. Few
+persons, indeed, who have not visited the scene, have any notion of the
+variety and value of the remains which have withstood the wear and tear
+of sixteen centuries, during a great part of which period the wall was
+used as a quarry by the dwellers in the district.
+
+[Illustration: 8203]
+
+In many places the traveller, especially if aided by some competent
+guide, may discern the whole outline of the structure. It consisted
+of seven parts, viz., the Roman Wall proper, comprising ditch on the
+extreme northern side; (1) the military road; then the earthwork,
+consisting of (2) a wall; then (3) a space more or less wide from
+thirty feet to half-a-mile, middle of vallum, along of (4) a mound, or
+rampart, the largest of three; (5) a second ditch; (6) another mound,
+the smallest; and (7) yet another mound. The following section exhibits
+all in one view. Nor is this all, at every three or four miles we have
+fortified camps of several acres each, at every mile a castle, and
+between the castles watch-towers. Moreover, there are roads and bridges,
+traces of villas, gardens, and burial-places, making almost every inch
+from Thirlmoor, on the verge of the Cheviots, at the foot of heathery
+hills and through richly wooded vales, to Rothbury--already a famous
+place of resort from the district, and evidently destined to become
+more frequented from its surpassing beauty of situation, encircled by
+romantic hills, with the bright river running swiftly between.
+
+[Illustration: 0204]
+
+Thence the Coquet descends in many a winding by scenes of the richest
+sylvan loveliness to Warkworth, renowned for its hermitage, which is
+still, as the old Percy ballad describes it, "deep hewn within a craggy
+cliff, and overhung with wood." And so we reach the sea, where Coquet
+Island, with its lighthouse, lies amid the gleaming waters, scarcely
+suggesting, as we gaze upon it in the fair sunshine, how terribly the
+storm sometimes there rages, or how those dark rocks are chafed by the
+angry billows!
+
+But for the full splendour of cliff and ocean scenery we journey still
+a little northward, and come to Dunstanborough Castle. Here a dark ridge
+of basalt rises in pillared form sheer from the sea, and in the words of
+Alarmion, "the whitening breakers," surging with ceaseless thunder into
+the caves which pierce the cliffs, "sound near,"
+
+     "As boiling through the rocks they roar
+     On Dunstanborough's caverned shore."
+
+[Illustration: 0205]
+
+The view from the "Lilburn's Tower" in this ruined castle, commanding
+landwards the broad purple moors, extending in many an undulation to the
+rounded Cheviots, glimmering blue in the distance, and looking seawards
+over the restless ocean, beating ever at the foot of the black columns,
+while sea-birds are ceaselessly wheeling in mid air with shrill
+outcries, not unfairly vies with the wild magnificence of Tintagel, as
+described in our earlier pages.
+
+The two coast scenes are, perhaps, unequalled in the British Islands:
+the difference is that, while the Cornish scene lies in far-away
+seclusion, this of Northumberland is close by one of the chief lines of
+traffic, and within accessible distance of crowded populations. Yet even
+Cornwall is a great industrial centre. Its mining industries are never
+far away from us. Its wildest cliffs are pierced by shafts and adits
+leading down, as in the Botallack Mine, to labyrinthine passages far
+under the bed of the sea, where the miners can hear overhead the rush of
+the waves and the grinding together of the huge boulders.
+
+We have now reached the limit of our purpose, which was to show how near
+to the doors of the million is some of the most striking scenery of
+our land. Else from Dunstanborough Castle we could have pursued our way
+northwards at least as far as Bamborough Castle, not so much for the
+sake of admiring its noble ramparts and towers--once a fortress, now a
+temple of charity--or of gazing again upon the glories of cliff and sea,
+as of looking out across the waters to those rocky isles which, in our
+own time, have witnessed one of those deeds of unconscious heroism which
+do honour to our nature. For it was from one of those sea-beaten crags
+that, on the 5th of September, 1838, Grace Darling set forth upon her
+errand of mercy amid the raging waters, to rescue the survivors of the
+shipwrecked Forfarshire. "Her musical name," it has been said, "is the
+burden of a beautiful story of that love of man which is the love of
+Christ translated into human language and deeds." Four years after that
+great exploit the brave and gentle maiden died of consumption, brought
+on, it is said, by a visit to her brother, keeper of the lighthouse on
+Coquet Island: but she has left among our island race an imperishable
+name. Let us conclude these random rovings by a visit to her monument
+in Bamborough churchyard. Her figure lies as it were in slumber, an oar
+upon her shoulder, beneath a Gothic canopy, within sight and hearing of
+the waves. On the bright day of our visit the waves were murmuring and
+sparkling far below: the craggy islets in the distance were touched with
+sunlight, and we turned away, reminded less of the heroism that braved
+the storm, than of the heavenly home and the everlasting rest. "I saw
+a new heaven and a new earth, for the first heaven and the first earth
+were passed away; and there was no more sea."
+
+[Illustration: 0206]
+
+
+
+
+SNOWDONIA AND SOUTH WALES.
+
+|Some of the holiday excursions which live most pleasantly in memory,
+are those short "runs" of three or four days, to the mountain or the
+sea, which, it may be, some unexpected holiday has enabled us to take,
+or some "happy thought" has suggested as likely to be beneficial to mind
+and body. The amount of enjoyment that can be compressed into so brief
+a space of time is quite wonderful, provided only the place of visit be
+wisely chosen, the days long, and the weather suitable.
+
+In one such little tour, so full of interest that it is hard to believe
+it to have extended only from Tuesday morning to Friday afternoon, we,
+some years ago, made our first acquaintance with Snowdon. Starting from
+Caernarvon before breakfast, we walked to Llanberis, by a road leading
+gradually upwards beside a wild mountain torrent, till the lake from
+which it issues was reached, and the impression of the mountain grandeur
+first fully felt.
+
+The ascent of Snowdon has been so often described, that we need only say
+it was unexpectedly easy. The beauty of the path with which it began, up
+the bank of a mountain torrent ending in a strange and lovely waterfall,
+beguiled the first portion of the way, and the latter part opened up
+continually such glorious views, that the fatigue was lightened, if the
+progress was a little impeded, by long pauses of admiration. At length
+we reached Moel-y-Wyddfa, "the far-seen summit," and were upon the
+highest spot in England and Wales.
+
+[Illustration: 0208]
+
+[Illustration: 0209]
+
+Of the near prospect the chief wonder, to us, was the number of lakes,
+or llyns, visible. For this we were unprepared, and the endlessly
+diversified outline of these gleaming pools contrasted strikingly with
+the dark mountain masses amid which they lay. The distant views were at
+first very clear--Skiddaw (so said our guide) in the north, the Isle of
+Man in the west, appearing like a shadow on a sunlit sea, Cader Idris
+and Plinlimmon in the south, with the valleys lying green among the
+hills, and here and there the line of some sparkling stream, while the
+habitations of man were dwarfed to insignificance, or indicated only by
+dim patches, as of smoke hanging in the air. Suddenly a chilling breeze
+passed across the mountain top, and we were glad to find shelter in one
+of the little huts which crown--we will not say adorn--the peak. As
+the mists now began to gather, it was judged time to descend. The path,
+little more than eight feet wide, lay along one of the narrowest spurs
+of the mountain, while on both sides are tremendous precipices. To walk
+over this path in clear, calm weather would be a trial to the nerves;
+but now the mists were seething and whirling below, ever and anon
+rapidly parting, so as to disclose glimpses of bare rocks apparently
+rising out of an ocean of cloud, or miniature meadows of sunny green
+at unknown depths, or, strangest of all, leaden-coloured lakelets, each
+enclosed by its bank of fog. It was a weird scene, and though the path
+itself was tolerably free from mist, the sight of these abysses on
+either hand, suggesting the consequences of a slip, kept us all very
+quiet, very wary in our steps; and we were thankful when we reached the
+point where the mountain spur expands into a broad, safe, though steep
+and rugged, hill. Here we descended swiftly, and soon found ourselves
+upon the turnpike road to Beddgelert, our destination.
+
+This level dell, set in the midst of mountains, which rise on all sides,
+clothed at their base with rich woods, and then towering upwards,
+bare and rugged against the sky, surpassed all our expectations by the
+magnificence of its environment. The faithful hound, so well known in
+the stories of many lands, has here a tomb, in the very midst of the
+valley, overhung by a group of willows. Perhaps the legend is but a
+myth; it exists, we are told, in Persian, and in the dialects of India.
+The story as it stands is not only affecting, but contains a noble
+lesson; and it was in no sceptical spirit that we read Southey's fine
+ballad over again, at the traditionary scene of the incident. We ended
+the day by a stroll up to Pont Aberglaslyn, that most romantic of
+defiles, the only defect of which is, that it is too short. The road
+leads on one side by the "blue torrent," which dashes through the pass
+with headlong, tremendous force; on the other by towering mountain
+sides, clothed with lichen and a scanty covering of mosses and shrubs. A
+marked feature in these rocks is the evident trace of glacier action,
+to which Dr. Buckland has called attention by a memorandum in his
+own handwriting, framed and glazed, in the hotel. The bridge at the
+extremity of the pass, carrying the old road to Tan-y-bwlch, has been
+thus described by Miss Costello: "There, forty feet above the river,
+hangs in air apparently, just touching the two mountains, a one-arched
+bridge, clothed with a robe of ivy, whose festoons wave to and fro, as
+if the action of her leap had disturbed the drapery of some nymph, whose
+form had hardened into stone as she performed the wondrous feat. Below,
+beyond, around, the waters rave and foam and rush, and here for the
+first time I recognised the beautiful colour, familiar to my eye in the
+Pyrenees, which has given the name of the 'Blue Pool' to this lovely
+spot." The scene was one in which to rest and muse after the exertions
+and excitements of the morning; the only disturbance of the quiet being
+the pertinacity of the little sellers of spar and rock fragments, or
+these failing, of woollen socks, with equal readiness to sing us a
+song, if no purchasers could be found for their other wares! It must in
+fairness be added that the song was "sweet and low," and harmonised well
+with the now gathering twilight, and the sound of rushing waters.
+
+[Illustration: 0211]
+
+The next day's expedition must be more briefly narrated. Somewhat tired
+by the mountain climbing, we were content with a quiet walk up Nant
+Gwynant, descending by the eastern half of the Pass of Llanberis to
+Cape! Curig, and thence, beside the river Lugwy, to Bettws-y-Coed. Two
+lakes, passed soon after leaving Beddgelert, are of the most exquisite
+beauty, and the views of Snowdon, opened up a little beyond them, are of
+splendour unsurpassed.
+
+Reaching Pen-y-gwryd a little below the head of the Llanberis Pass, we
+pursued a route of a totally different character to Capel Curig. For the
+luxuriant beauty of Nant Gwynant we had now the sublimity of bare rock
+and crag; but there was something, we must suppose, uncongenial with our
+mood in the bleakness of the scene; at any rate, this part of the pass
+disappointed us. We have since found that the true grandeur of the
+defile is in the other, or western part, between Pen-y-gwryd and
+Llanberis. The rest at Capel Curig was specially welcome, and thence
+there was no want of interest in the route, on the bank of the romantic
+Lugwy. The Swallow waterfall must by all means be visited, repelled as
+is the true lover of nature by all those little arrangements that make
+the place a show--the urchin who points out the locked gate, for fear
+it should be missed, the keen-eyed dame with the keys, the guide to the
+torrent s brink, apparently solicitous lest any visitor should discover
+for himself the chief points of view, the miscellaneous guard of
+children, with a general expectancy of coppers.
+
+[Illustration: 0214]
+
+All this we did not like; and yet nothing could well be finer than the
+plunge of the river, with roar and foam, over the vast mass of rocks,
+slanting in rugged, picturesque confusion from the summit to the foot
+of the fall, and breaking the stream in its descent into numberless
+cascades and tiny rapids. The picture is one of marvellous diversity,
+and when the river is swollen by rain the rush and roar are tremendous.
+
+Our day's journey was nearly over, and another hours walk, or a little
+mure, brought us to that "paradise of painters," the Royal Oak at Bettws
+y-Coed. Happily there was room for us, though the inn seemed crowded by
+artists--many of them men of world-wide reputation--who come again and
+again to this fair valley, always to find something new in form or
+colour, light or shade. The next day was spent in rambling about the
+neighbourhood; and almost everywhere we found artists at work with easel
+and umbrella. Pont-y-pair was to us as an old friend, so often had we
+seen its semblance in exhibition-rooms and books of "landscape scenery."
+Few subjects, indeed, could be more adapted to the painter.
+
+[Illustration: 0215]
+
+But if this bridge, with its many lovely points of view, struck us with
+a sense of familiarity, we were startled, as well as delighted, by the
+exceeding beauty of the Fairies' Glen. A tributary stream here comes
+down to the Lugwy between high wooded banks, and over mossy rocks, which
+at many points can easily be crossed; the course of the rapid crystal
+stream for a long distance is almost straight, and the perspective from
+below is singularly fine.
+
+The holiday, rich as it had been in delights, was now almost over, and
+the last day was mainly spent in a water excursion, which a railway,
+since constructed, has rendered less familiar, but which even yet we
+venture to commend. The pretty little town of Llanrwst being passed, we
+pursued a pleasant road between the river Conway on one side and bosky
+cliffs on the other, as far as Trefriw, where a small steamer was
+waiting the turn of the tide to proceed down the river to Conway town.
+The sail on a fine day is one of the most charming of excursions, the
+scenery on both sides being of much interest, and the quiet rest on
+board the steamer being very agreeable after three days' walking and
+climbing.
+
+[Illustration: 0216]
+
+From Trefriw, we were told, a very short excursion, up to Llyn
+Geirionydd, would have brought us to one of the very finest points of
+view in all North Wales, the range of Snowdon, and the scarcely less
+imposing Moel Siabod, being thence seen in all their majesty. But it is
+always at once a regret and an alleviation, in leaving beautiful scenes,
+that much is left unvisited--regret that so many fair scenes have been
+missed, alleviation, because the very fact may form so good a reason
+some day for revisiting the place! As it was, with some time at our
+disposal after reaching Conway, we visited the splendid ruins of the
+castle, then went by rail to Llandudno, and after a hasty glance at the
+promenade by the bay, finished the memorable four days' visit to Wales
+by a bracing walk of six miles, round the Great Orme's Head on the path
+overlooking the sea.
+
+The holiday had been so successful, that on the next similar opportunity
+it occurred to us to spend the few days at command in South Wales. We
+are bound, however, to confess that the charm was felt to be inferior.
+
+Possibly we expected another Snowdonia, and so deserved to be
+disappointed. Nature does not repeat herself, and though the heights
+of Plinlimmon are commanding when attained, we do not recommend the
+traveller whose time is precious to traverse the intolerably circuitous
+path, amid bogs and morasses, which leads him wearily at last to the
+summit. The fresh breeze, and the wide prospect from the mountain's
+top are, to some extent, a compensation for the toil; while it is
+interesting to explore the sources of some of the many rivers which
+descend from the mighty store of waters embosomed in this hill--the
+Severn and the Wye being chief. But the longing for the beautiful was
+unsatisfied until we reached Pont-y-Mynach, the Monk's P>ridge; better
+known, perhaps, as "the Devil's Bridge." The former name denotes the
+fact that the monks of Strata Florida Abbey constructed the bridge:
+the latter, we suppose, expresses the simple wonder of the rustics, who
+could not conceive the daring work as wrought by any power less than
+supernatural. Why should they have taken for granted that the power was
+evil? We presume that the explanation is to be found in the sense of
+terror excited by the fury and the roar of the torrent. There is an awe
+akin to joy: a solemn yet glad uplifting of the soul, as at the sight
+of the starry heavens; and who could attribute the splendours of the
+firmament to any but a beneficent Creator? But amid the wilder scenes
+of this earth, there is not only the mere feeling of danger, but a dread
+which oppresses the spirit--a "fear that hath torment,"--an instinctive
+sense of sin, which has led men in such localities to imagine a
+_malignant_ spirit at work.
+
+A little way beyond the bridge are the falls of the Rheidol--a series
+of cascades, perhaps the most picturesque in Wales, not from the mass of
+water so much as from the magnificence of the narrow, rocky ravine, with
+its wealth of foliage. Perhaps the charms of this fair glen, with the
+comforts of the splendidly-placed hotel above, were heightened by the
+recollection of the long morning among the morasses of Plinlimmon; but
+our feeling as we sat at eventide watching the sunset, and listening
+to the roar of waters, was to surrender all the rest of our brief
+excursion, and to give ourselves there to the _dolce far niente_ of
+three long summer days!
+
+South Wales is so conveniently intersected with railways, that it
+is almost too easy for the tourist to pass from point to point. The
+preceding day, on a south-easterly slope of Plinlimmon, we had stood at
+the source of the Wye, and the desire possessed us to trace the progress
+of that river for awhile, to see if in its early meanderings it had
+the beauty which we knew so well to belong to it in its later and more
+familiar course. The excursion was not a disappointing one. It leads
+through some of the most primitive of Welsh districts: Builth, which in
+due time we reached, appeared quaint and attractive, and Talgarth,
+where our long walk was finished, might have tempted us, under other
+circumstances, to a longer stay, to explore the "Black Mountains," a
+wonderfully fine range of hills, girt with woods, pierced by lovely
+glens, and extending in ranges of lofty moorland for many miles.
+
+[Illustration: 8218]
+
+A short railway journey now brought us to Brecon, so nobly placed in the
+midst of its mountain amphitheatre as to invite a longer stay: but we
+had to hurry on, anxious to reach the far-famed Vale of Neath. A very
+wild walk led upwards for many weary miles, as it seemed, from Brecon to
+Maen Llia, the "Llia Stone," near which is the source of the Llia, one
+of the streams whose confluence form the Neath. Descending rapidly, we
+soon came to the point where the Llia is joined from the north-east by
+the Dringarth, another confluent.
+
+[Illustration: 9218]
+
+At Y-strad-fellte, a little further on, the glory of the mountain vale
+began to open out. We passed under the shadow of the crags to the
+east, as far as to the spot where, at a break in the rocky rampart, the
+Hepste, another tributary, hurries to meet the stream, forming a fine
+waterfall. At Crag-y-Dinas, a huge limestone rock, commanding from its
+summit both the upper glen and the lower valley as far as Swansea Bay,
+the beauty of the scene is at its height. Hardly any combination
+of scenery could be richer in its exquisite variety. The road
+now lay between these united streams and the Neath proper, which soon
+is joined from the western side by the Pyrrdin, up whose rocky glen we
+turned for the sake of its two charming cascades, the "Lady's" and the
+"Crooked" Fall.
+
+[Illustration: 8219]
+
+In fact, the whole neighbourhood teems with cataracts, many of exceeding
+beauty, and a day might well be spent in exploring the rocky dingles,
+through which the hurrying streams descend, until at Pont-Nedd-fechan,
+"the Little Bridge of Neath," they meet and mingle in one.
+
+The bridge is of one arch, thrown across the ravine near the point of
+confluence; it is festooned with drooping ivy, which almost reaches the
+surface of the stream, and in its secluded loveliness this little Welsh
+Lauterbrunnen, a village of many waters among the hills, may fairly
+compare with many scenes far better known to fame.
+
+The route down the valley to the town of Neath and the port of Briton
+Ferry, is rich in varied beauty. The river runs between the high
+road and the railway, with, in some part of its course, a canal. The
+surrounding hills are lovely in outline and richly wooded; and until
+we reach the seats of industry near the port, the water, lying in long
+reaches, or hurrying over its rocky bed, is crystal-clear. At a former
+time Briton Ferry was lovely beyond almost any other seaside resort.
+The river, here expanded to a noble breadth, flowed between lofty wooded
+cliffs to an open bay. The surrounding hills were crowned with noble
+oaks, and the romantic little village, protected from the north and
+east, had all the attractions not only of its own exceeding beauty, but
+of a mild climate, and of air exceptionally pure. All this is changed!
+
+[Illustration: 0220]
+
+Coal, copper, iron dominate the scene. The cliffs and the climate are
+there, and Swansea Bay is beautiful in calm or storm: but the oaks have
+fallen, the nooks and elens in the hills have become squalid in their
+bareness, the streams are polluted, the air is murky; but the docks are
+admirable, and the place is "rising rapidly." There is a divineness in
+man's industry, as well as in nature's beauty.
+
+     "The old order yieldeth, giving place to new,
+     And God fulfils Himself in many ways."
+
+We hurry away from the coalfields to where Carmarthen stands high on
+Towy bank, grandly overlooking the course of the river to the sea.
+Of the bay named from this ancient capital, the most beautiful part,
+perhaps, is where Tenby, from its rocky promontory, overlooks the sea.
+As we terminated our little tour in North Wales at Llandudno, so here
+at Tenby we bade farewell to the southern part of the Principality. But
+before leaving there was time for one little excursion along the coast,
+superb beyond all our expectation, especially for the first few miles,
+where the mountain limestone fronts the sea with bold, cave-pierced
+cliff. Our ramble terminated at Manor-beer Castle, one of the most
+extensive and complete of feudal fortresses in Great Britain. Perhaps
+there is no ruin of the kind in which the arrangements for residence as
+well as for defence can be so clearly traced, and certainly there are
+few which more nobly command the shore below.
+
+But our brief excursion was over. Some of the most picturesque parts
+of South Wales were, perforce, left unvisited--especially Tintern, that
+loveliest of British abbeys. Yet much had been seen to quicken the sense
+of beauty; while the glimpse of busy industry given us along the south
+coast, had quickened our desire to learn something more of the great
+population gathered by its docks and ports, its mines and furnaces. For
+it is the human interest which, wherever we may travel, must gradually
+become supreme, and nowhere more truly than in South Wales. The heroism
+often manifested in the midst of lowliest toil was never more strikingly
+illustrated than in a recent incident which has made the name of
+Pontypridd a household word in England. All know the story of the
+imprisoned miners, and the men who bravely volunteered to rescue them,
+daring the peril of compressed air, inflammable gas, and the pent-up
+floods of water. "Four men"--let the tale never be forgotten at British
+firesides!--"from one o'clock in the afternoon of Thursday the 19th
+of April, 1877, until three o'clock in the afternoon of the next day,
+worked on amid all these accumulated dangers until the rescue of their
+comrades was complete. Twenty-two others were only second to those four
+men--eleven in taking an actual share in the work of cutting through
+the barrier of coal, and eleven others in constant presence and
+superintendence. It was an intense exercise of self-devotion, patience,
+and deliberate courage--a concentration, as it were, of qualities which
+could only be acquired by the habitual exercise of these qualities in
+every-day life, and perhaps their cultivation through many generations."
+Happily they were successful, and the nation feels it to be but a worthy
+recognition of such heroism, that a new order of merit, instituted to do
+honour to gallantry in saving life on land, has been inaugurated by the
+gift of "the Albert Medal" to those Welsh colliers. Never has decoration
+been better earned! "Not the least satisfaction, however, of those who
+receive it ought to be, that they have been the means of drawing public
+attention and public honour to the whole class of brave and unselfish
+deeds of which they have furnished one of the most conspicuous of
+instances. There are no signs that the struggle of civilisation with
+nature will cease to demand its victims. The progress of mankind still
+depends, and must long depend, upon the bravery and unselfishness with
+which unknown perils are encountered; and, perhaps, as science opens up
+further fields of experiment and investigation, still bolder adventures
+may be demanded. It was but right that the stamp of national honour
+should be formally placed upon all such deeds; and the Welsh miners
+deserve the thanks, not merely of their comrades, but of their country,
+for having established in public esteem a new and permanent order of
+merit." *
+
+     * _The Times_, August 8, 1877.
+
+[Illustration: 0222]
+
+
+
+
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
+
+[Illustration: 0224]
+
+[Illustration: 0225]
+
+|SIR Walter Scott somewhere speaks of the Isle of Wight as a "beautiful
+island, which he who once sees never forgets, through whatever part of
+the wide world his future path may lead him." Whether this description
+be over-coloured or no, it is certain that there is hardly any spot of
+English ground so well adapted for a ramble of three or four days. There
+cannot be a more charming excursion than a cruise round "the Island,"
+as inhabitants of the neighbouring counties fondly call it, when the
+atmosphere is clear, and light breezes stir the water, without raising
+it to roughness. The Solent, with its richly varied shores, and its
+flotilla of white-sailed yachts, is first traversed: then round the
+Needles we meet the open sea, gazing as we pass by at the quaint, almost
+grotesque, forms of those pointed chalk pillars, the evident relics of
+cliffs worn away by the action of the sea. Scratchell's Bay, with its
+chalk precipices, is passed; and other bays, with their richly coloured,
+variegated sands, excite new interest and wonder. Then the Chines,
+or ravines in the cliff, diversify the outline; and so we reach the
+Undercliffe, that line of coast, whose perfect protection from the
+winter's cold, with the fresh purity of the sea-breeze, render it almost
+unique as a residence for the consumptive. Niton at one extremity,
+and Ventnor and Bonchurch at the other, with the five miles between,
+offering a succession of views unsurpassed in beauty. "The beautiful
+places," writes Lord Jeffrey, "are either where the cliffs sink deep
+into bays and valleys, opening like a theatre to the sun and the sea, or
+where there has been a terrace of low land formed at their feet, which
+stretches under the shelter of that enormous wall like a rich garden
+plot, all roughened over with masses of rock fallen in distant ages, and
+overshadowed with thickets of myrtle and rose and geranium, which all
+grow wild here in great luxuriance and profusion."
+
+[Illustration: 0226]
+
+After leaving Bonchurch, Shanklin Chine, Sandown Bay, terminated on
+the north by the magnificent chalk headland called Culver Cliff, or
+the Cliff of the White Dove, terminate the most beautiful part of this
+little voyage. After rounding one or two more headlands, Ryde comes into
+sight, and loyal travellers begin to look out for Whipping-ham church
+tower, and the woods and palace of Osborne; soon after passing which
+Cowes is reached, and the excursion is over.
+
+[Illustration: 9226]
+
+The interior of the island has many points of interest, but three or
+four days are sufficient for their exploration. A most interesting
+excursion is that to Newport and Carisbrooke Castle, so closely
+connected with the annals of Charles I. The visitor to Blackgang Chine
+will probably come to the conclusion that this and similar fissures
+in the chalk cliffs have been extolled beyond their deserts. There are
+combes in Devonshire, unknown to fame, far superior to either Blackgang
+or Shanklin, and at the latter especially, the elaborate artificiality
+of the whole scene is a little repellant, while the celebrated waterfall
+is commonly but a trickling rill. Blackgang is finer as a chasm, but the
+cascade is equally insignificant. The charm of "the Island" is, after
+all, in the climate, the colouring, and the glorious sea.
+
+[Illustration: 0227]
+
+Few walks of richer or more luxuriant beauty can be found within the
+same compass than that from Blackgang Chine to Ventnor. First we reach
+the Sandrock Spring, a chalybeate fountain in a cliff; the water, it
+is said, contains alum and iron in an unexampled proportion. There is a
+cottage, hard by, displaying a few tumblers, but customers do not seem
+to be many. As a spa, Sandrock is too plainly a failure; and for real
+invigoration to health and spirits, we would rather try the pure ozone
+on the summit of St. Catherine's Cliff, than imbibe any quantity of
+the chalybeate. Let the visitor stay long and inhale the glorious
+sea-breeze. He will indeed have pure air below, that is, unless the
+breezes, as is their wont sometimes, are stirring the chalk in dust
+clouds--a kind of white simoom!
+
+[Illustration: 9228]
+
+But at the best, the air of the Undercliffe is soft and languid,
+suggestive to the robust of delicate lungs; while yet those who are thus
+afflicted cannot be too thankful for a shelter where the atmosphere is
+as mild as it is pure, and the scene at every point, by land and sea,
+most beautiful.
+
+We descend from St. Catherine's down to Niton, and thence pursue our way
+by Puckaster and Mirables Lawrence, where the church was once accounted
+the smallest in England (twelve by twenty feet in the interior), but is
+now enlarged by the addition of a chancel.
+
+"Improvement" has been direfully at work since first we visited this
+little village and drank of the cool waters of "St. Lawrence's Well."
+The white, well-kept road is more level than the old picturesque path;
+instead of ivied cottages there are now shining villas with green
+blinds, walls for hedgerows, and, worst of all, the gushing spring flows
+somewhere in an inclosure to which there seems no access. It is a pity
+to have thus modernised so rustic and lovely a spot. But the flowers are
+still there, perfuming the air; and the myrtles and the fuchsias are not
+shrubs, but trees, and the luxuriance of southern climes surrounds us.
+As we walk along we speculate on the convulsions of nature that have
+prepared for us this little paradise. The undulating ground at our feet
+is evidently formed of vast masses of chalk and clay, which, at former
+periods, have broken bodily from the face of the cliff, slipped forward,
+and sunk down. The surface, disintegrated by aqueous and atmospheric
+action, has formed a kind of irregular terrace, the soil of which is
+most favourable to vegetation. The ground is now firm, the process
+of disintegration from above seems almost arrested; but there are even
+yet memories of landslips on a large scale, of which the traces are
+still visible.
+
+[Illustration: 0229]
+
+There is one walk in the island which no tolerable pedestrian should
+omit--that from Newport to Freshwater, or Alum Bay. Leaving the main
+road at Carisbrooke, a footpath leads upwards through fields richly
+cultivated and gay with wild flowers. The open down which forms the
+backbone of the island is soon reached. Keeping along the ridge the
+tourist will for some miles enjoy a scene almost unique in its beauty.
+The soft delicate curves and undulations which characterise the chalk
+downs, and which the unobservant traveller so often overlooks, may be
+seen in perfection. Nestling in many a sheltered nook are farm-houses,
+hamlets, and churches, embosomed in trees. Patches of fern, gorse, and
+heather diversify the landscape. And far below, on either side, is the
+sea--on the right hand the Solent, on the left the English Channel.
+After a while Freshwater comes into view, with its | line of cliffs
+rising sheer from the waves, and about half-a-mile inland the sheltered
+nook which has been made a classic spot as the home of the Poet
+Laureate. His description of it will be familiar to many readers.
+
+     "Where, far from smoke and noise of town,
+     I watch the twilight falling brown
+     All round a careless ordered garden.
+     Close to the ridge of a noble down.
+     You'll have no scandal while you dine,
+     But honest talk and wholesome wine,
+     And only hear the magpie gossip
+     Garrulous under a roof of pine.
+     For groves of pine on either hand,
+     To break the blast of winter, stand;
+     And further on, the hoary Channel
+     Tumbles a breaker on chalk and sand."
+
+A couple of miles more and we reach Alum Bay and the Needles, spoken of
+on a preceding page.
+
+[Illustration: 9230]
+
+Half a century ago few contributions to our religious literature were
+more widely and deservedly popular than Legh Richmond's "short and
+simple annals of the poor." Though of late years they have lost
+something of their popularity, yet many visitors to the island make
+a pilgrimage to Brading, with which the name of the devout author is
+inseparably connected. The grave of little Jane, the Young Cottager,
+is in the churchyard here: that of the "Dairyman's Daughter," Elizabeth
+Vallbridge, is at Arreton, three or four miles away towards the
+interior.
+
+Here for the present our rambles must end.
+
+[Illustration: 8230]
+
+It is impossible to retrace them without feeling how very beautiful
+England is. Some of her beauties are little known. Others are not
+appreciated as they deserve. Many an obscure and unvisited nook has a
+loveliness or a grandeur or a picturesqueness beyond that of the most
+famous show-places. But the glory of our island is that so many of its
+loveliest spots are associated with the memory of great names and noble
+deeds. The glory of England is in its people; but its people may well,
+in turn, exult and give thanks to God that He has given them so fair and
+splendid a home.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's English Pictures, by Samuel Manning and S. G. Green
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diff --git a/45065-h/45065-h.htm b/45065-h/45065-h.htm
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+++ b/45065-h/45065-h.htm
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+
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+   PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+   "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" >
+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en">
+  <head>
+    <title>
+      English Pictures, by The Rev. Samuel Manning, Ll.d., and the Rev. S. G.
+      Green, D.d.
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve">
+
+    body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify}
+    P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; }
+    H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; }
+    hr  { width: 50%; text-align: center;}
+    .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; }
+    blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;}
+    .mynote    {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;}
+    .toc       { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;}
+    .toc2      { margin-left: 20%;}
+    div.fig    { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; }
+    div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; }
+    .figleft   {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;}
+    .figright  {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;}
+    .pagenum   {display:inline; font-size: 100%; font-style:normal;
+               margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%;
+               text-align: right;}
+    .side      { float: left; font-size: 75%; width: 25%; padding-left: 0.8em;
+               border-left: dashed thin; text-align: left;
+               text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;
+               font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;}
+    p.pfirst, p.noindent {text-indent: 0}
+    span.dropcap         { float: left; margin: 0 0.1em 0 0; line-height: 1 }
+    pre        { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;}
+
+</style>
+  </head>
+  <body>
+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 45065 ***</div>
+
+    <div style="height: 8em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h1>
+      ENGLISH PICTURES
+    </h1>
+    <h2>
+      By The Rev. Samuel Manning, LL.D., and The Rev. S. G. Green, D.D.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <h4>
+      1889
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0001" id="linkimage-0001"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0006m.jpg" alt="0006m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0006.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0002" id="linkimage-0002"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0007m.jpg" alt="0007m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0007.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0003" id="linkimage-0003"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0009m.jpg" alt="0009m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0009.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <b>CONTENTS</b>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_PREF"> PREFACE: </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> THE RIVER THAMES </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> SOUTH-EASTERN RAMBLES </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> OUR FOREST AND WOODLANDS </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> THE COUNTRY OF BUNYAN AND COWPER. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> WESTWARD HO! </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> THE ENGLISH LAKES </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> THE EASTERN COUNTIES </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0011"> ROUND ABOUT SOME INDUSTRIAL, CENTRES. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0012"> SNOWDONIA AND SOUTH WALES. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0013"> THE ISLE OF WIGHT. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br /> <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      PREFACE:
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      A British nobleman&mdash;so runs the story&mdash;when travelling in
+      Switzerland was so impressed by the gloomy grandeur of one of the mountain
+      passes, that he exclaimed, "Surely there is no other view like this in the
+      world!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I am told, my lord," said the guide, "that there is but one,"&mdash;naming
+      a view in the Scottish I lighlands.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Why," replied the nobleman, "that is on my own estate, and I have never
+      seen it!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The anecdote may be doubtful historically, but in idea it is true. <i>Non
+      é vero, ma ben trovato</i>.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The number of Englishmen who really know their own country is
+      comparatively few; and no doubt there are motives quite independent of the
+      love for natural beauty, which lead the hard-worked men of our generation
+      to escape at intervals to as great a distance as possible from the scene
+      of their daily occupations. The effort for this, however, often leads to
+      yet more harassing distractions; and many return from the eager
+      excitements of foreign travel more jaded and careworn than when they began
+      their journey. Nor is it so easy to escape after all! The great event of
+      the day at every Continental hotel is the arrival of <i>The Times</i>; and
+      you are at least as likely to meet your next neighbour on a Rhine
+      steamboat or at the Rigi Kulm, as in the valley of the Upper Thames, or at
+      Boscastle or Tintagel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is true that our rivers do not flow from glaciers, and our proudest
+      mountain heights may easily be scaled in an afternoon; we have no gloomy
+      grandeur of pine forests or stupendous background of snowy peaks; but
+      there is beauty, and sublimity too, for those who know "how to observe"
+      the earth, and sea, and sky: and in less than a day's journey, the tired
+      dweller in cities may find many a sequestered retreat, where pure air and
+      lovely scenery will bring to his spirit a refreshment all the more welcome
+      because associated with the language, the habits, and the religion of his
+      own home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The volume now in the reader's hand is intended to recall, by the aid of
+      pen and pencil, some English scenes in which such refreshing influences
+      have in the past been enjoyed. And, as every wanderer over English ground
+      finds himself in the footsteps of the great and good, ample use has been
+      made of the biographical and literary associations which these scenes
+      continually recall.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0004" id="linkimage-0004"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0010m.jpg" alt="0010m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0010.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0011m.jpg" alt="0011m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0011.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0005" id="linkimage-0005"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0013m.jpg" alt="0013m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0013.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0006" id="linkimage-0006"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0014m.jpg" alt="0014m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0014.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE RIVER THAMES
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0007" id="linkimage-0007"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0016m.jpg" alt="0016m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0016.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0008" id="linkimage-0008"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0017m.jpg" alt="0017m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0017.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE Thames,
+      unrivalled among English rivers in beauty as in fame, is really little
+      known by Englishmen. Of the millions who line its banks, few have any
+      acquaintance with its higher streams, or know them further than by
+      occasional glances through rail way-carriage windows, at Maidenhead,
+      Reading, Pangbourne, or between Abingdon and Oxford. Multitudes, even, who
+      love the Oxford waters, and are familiar with every turn of the banks
+      between Folly Bridge and Nuneham, have never thought to explore the scenes
+      of surpassing beauty where the river flows on, almost in loneliness, in
+      its descent to London; visited by few, save by those happy travellers,
+      who, with boat and tent, pleasant companionship, and well-chosen books&mdash;Izaak
+      Walton's <i>Angler</i> among the rest&mdash;pass leisurely from reach to
+      reach of the silver stream. Then, higher up than Oxford, who knows the
+      Thames? Who can even tell where it arises, and through what district it
+      flows?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There is a vague belief in many minds, fostered by some ancient manuals of
+      geography, that the Thames is originally the Isis, so called until it
+      receives the river <i>Thame</i>, the auspicious union being denoted by the
+      pluralising of the latter word. The whole account is pure invention. No
+      doubt the great river does receive the Thame or Tame, near Wallingford;
+      but a Tame is also tributary to the Trent; and there is a Teme among the
+      affluents of the Severn. The truth appears to be that Teme, Tame, or
+      Thame, is an old Keltic word meaning "smooth," or "broad;" and that
+      Tamesis, of which Thames is merely a contraction, is formed by the
+      addition to this root of the old "Es," water, so familiar to us in "Ouse,"
+      * "Esk," "Uiske," "Exe," so that Tam-es means simply the "broad water,"
+      and is Latinised into Tamesis. The last two syllables again of this word
+      are fancifully changed into Isis, which is thus taken as a poetic
+      appellation of the river. In point of fact, Isis is used only by the
+      poets, or by those who affect poetic diction. Thus, Warton, in his address
+      to Oxford:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Lo, your loved Isis, from the bordering vale,
+     With all a mother's fondness bids you hail."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The name, then, of the Thames is singular, not plural; while yet the river
+      is formed of many confluent streams descending from the Cotswold Hills.
+      Which is the actual source is perhaps a question of words; and yet it is
+      one as keenly contended, and by as many competing localities, as the
+      birthplace of Homer was of old. Of the seven, however, only two can show a
+      plausible case. The traditional Thames Head is in Trewsbury Mead, three
+      miles from Cirencester, not far from the Tetbury Road Station, on the
+      Great Western Railway, and hard by the old Roman road of Akeman Street,
+      one of the four ** that radiate from Cirencester, or, as the Romans called
+      the city, Corinium. Here the infant stream is at once pressed into
+      service, its waters being pumped up into the Thames and Severn Canal,
+      whose high embankment forms the back-ground to the wooded nook which forms
+      the cradle of the river. It is an impressive comment on the reported
+      saying of Brindley the engineer, that "the great use of rivers is to feed
+      canals." Half-a-mile farther down, and when clear of the great
+      pumping-engine, the baby river issues again to light in a secluded dell,
+      and now has room to wander at its own sweet will. The cut on the preceding
+      page delineates its early course, and shows "the Hoar Stone," an ancient
+      boundary, mentioned in a charter of King Æthelstan, a.d. 931.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The river now receives a succession of tiny rivulets, which augment its
+      volume and force until, near the village of Kemble, it is crossed by a
+      rustic bridge,&mdash;"the first bridge over the Thames," as depicted for
+      us in the charming volume of Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall, with its three
+      narrow arches, and its sides undefended by a parapet, with the solitary
+      figures of the labourer and his boy, wending their way home after work.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * "The Ouse, whom men do Isis rightly name."&mdash;Spenser,
+     Faerie Queen.
+
+     ** The other three were the Fossway, or "entrenched road,"
+     running to the north-east, the Ikenild Street or "road to
+     the Iceni," nearly due east, and Ermine or Irmin Street,
+     passing through Cirencester, north-west to Gloucester, and
+     south-east to Silchester. Akeman Street is a continuance of
+     the Fossway, and runs south-west to Bath. Its name probably
+     means, "Oak-man," or Forester.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0009" id="linkimage-0009"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8019.jpg" alt="8019 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8019.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      What a contrast with the <i>last</i> bridge that spans the river, with its
+      mighty sweep of traffic below and above!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But we must dally yet among scenes of rural quietude. A few miles beyond
+      Kemble, the Thames has acquired force sufficient to turn a mill. Hence,
+      leaving the highway, and taking our path through pleasant meadows, we pass
+      by one or two rural villages, and so to Cricklade, the first market-town
+      on the Thames. And here a considerable affluent joins the stream&mdash;a
+      river, in fact, that has come down from another part of the Cotswold
+      Hills, with some show of right to be the original stream.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This is the Churn (or Corin; Keltic "The Summit"), which rises at "the
+      Seven Springs," in a rocky hill-side, about three miles from Cheltenham,
+      and runs by Cirencester (Corin-cester) down to Cricklade. I he claim of
+      the Churn is the twofold one, of greater height in its source than the
+      traditional meadows and beside quiet villages: much, to say the truth,
+      like other rivers, or distinguished only by the transparency of its gentle
+      stream. For, issuing from a broad surface of oolite rock, it has brought
+      no mountain débris or dull clay to sully its brightness, no town
+      defilement, nor trace of higher rapids, in turbid waves and hurrying foam.
+      It lingers amid quiet beauties, scarcely veiling from sight the rich
+      herbarium which it fosters in its bed, save where the shadows of trees
+      reflected in the calm water mingle confusedly with the forms of aquatic
+      plants. Meanwhile other streams swell the current. As an unknown poet
+      somewhat loftily sings:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "From various springs divided waters glide,
+     In different colours roll a different tide;
+     Murmur along their crooked banks awhile:&mdash;
+     At once they murmur, and enrich the isle,
+     Awhile distinct, through many channels run,
+     But meet at last, and sweetly flow in one;
+     There joy to lose their long distinguished names,
+     And make one glorious and immortal Thames."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Of the little streams thus loftily described, the most important are the
+      Coln and the Leche; as Drayton has it in his <i>Polyolbion</i>:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Clere Coin and lovely Leche, so dun from Cotswold's plain."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0011" id="linkimage-0011"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9020.jpg" alt="9020 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9020.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The confluence of these streams with the Thames at Lechlade makes the
+      river navigable for barges; and from this point it sets up a towingpath.
+      At this point also end may be seen&mdash;a distant glimmering circle&mdash;from
+      the other. Then the canal pursues a level course for some miles, and
+      descends about 130 feet to the Thames at Lechlade, having traversed in all
+      a distance of rather more than thirty miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Below Lechlade the river passes into almost perfect solitude. Few walks in
+      England of the same distance are at once so quietly interesting and so
+      utterly lonely as the walk along the grassy towing-path of the Thames. A
+      constant water-traffic was once maintained between London and Bristol by
+      way of Lechlade and the canal; but this is now superseded by the railway,
+      and the sight of a passing barge is rare.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0012" id="linkimage-0012"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0021m.jpg" alt="0021m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0021.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The river after leaving Gloucestershire divides, in many a winding, the
+      counties of Oxford and Berks. The hills of the latter county, with their
+      wood-crowned summits, pleasantly bound the view to the south; Farringdon
+      Hill being for a long distance conspicuous among them. Half-way between
+      Lechlade and Oxford is the hamlet of Siford, or Shifford&mdash;one of the
+      great historic spots of England, if rightly considered, although now
+      isolated and unknown. For there, as an ancient chronicler commemorates,
+      King Alfred the Great held Parliament a thousand years ago.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "There sat at Siford many thanes and many bishops,
+     Learned men, proud earls and awful knights,
+     There was Karl Ælfric, learned in the law,
+     And Ælfred, England's herdsman, England's darling,
+     He was King in England.
+     He began to teach them how they should live."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Not far off is New Bridge, the oldest probably on the Thames. But it was
+      "new" six hundred years ago. Its solid construction shows that it was once
+      a great highway; while its buttresses, pointed up the stream, betoken the
+      power of the floods which the careful draining of later days has done so
+      much to moderate.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A short distance farther, the Windrush flows down from the north, by
+      Bourton-"on-the-water," Burford and Witney, to unite with the broadening
+      river; then the Evenlode, which the traveller by the Oxford, Worcester,
+      and Wolverhampton Railway so often crosses and recrosses in his journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Throughout, the river is carefully adapted for the purposes of a
+      navigation now little needed. The occasional locks and the frequent weirs
+      break the level, and the latter especially&mdash;sometimes miniature
+      rapids or waterfalls&mdash;add picturesqueness to the scene. An expert
+      oarsman may descend them all with safety; but many prefer to lift the boat
+      on to the bank and drag it down to the lower level. These are
+      interruptions to the journey, which, on the whole, is very enjoyable.
+      Should the tourist have time at command, he may diverge to the right hand
+      or to the left, to scenes of rich beauty or historic interest. Cumnor
+      Hall, a name familiar to all readers of Sir Walter Scott from the tragic
+      fate of Amy Robsart, lies a little way to the right of Bablock Hythe
+      Ferry; Stanton Harcourt a short distance to the left. At the latter place
+      Alexander Pope once resided, in a tower of the old mansion, which time or
+      reverence has spared, in the ruin of almost all the rest. A pane of glass,
+      in one of the tower windows, bore an inscription from the poet's own hand.
+      "In the year 1718, Alexander Pope finished here the Fifth Volume of
+      Homer." The pane is now at Nuneham Courtney, the mansion of the Harcourts.
+      At Bablock Hythe Ferry the traveller is scarcely four miles from Oxford by
+      the direct road; but if he keep to his boat, which he will not regret, he
+      will find the distance fully twelve. The detour leads him first past the
+      lovely wooded slopes and glades of Wytham Abbey, then to the scanty ruins
+      of Godstow Nunnery, with its memories of Fair Rosamond. But we must not
+      linger now, though opposite to the ruins a charming country hostelry
+      offers its attractions, and the trout are leaping in the stream; for we
+      are on our way to Oxford.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The impression which the first sight of this fair and ancient city makes
+      upon the stranger is probably unique, in whatever direction he first
+      approaches it, and from whatever point he first descries its spires and
+      towers. True, of late years the accessories of the railway invasion, so
+      long resisted by the University authorities, have given a new aspect to
+      the scene; but nothing can quite destroy the stately dignity and venerable
+      calm. The traveller who approaches by the way we are describing, receives
+      the full impression. As he floats along the quiet surface of the river,
+      the stately domes and towers come suddenly in sight, and the green railway
+      embankment in the foreground scarcely impairs the antique beauty of the
+      picture.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Oxford is probably Ousenford&mdash;the ford over the Ouse or "Water." Its
+      waters indeed are many, and almost labyrinthine; but we get clear of the
+      river at Hythe Bridge, and care for awhile only to explore Colleges,
+      Halls, and Libraries; pausing before the Martyrs' Memorial, to breathe the
+      hope that "the candle" once lighted there may still brightly burn, while
+      Keble College, farther on, is a memorial of one, who though of another
+      school of thought from ourselves, has given musical and touching
+      expressions tu the deepest thoughts of devout hearts.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0013" id="linkimage-0013"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0023m.jpg" alt="0023m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0023.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      But to describe this wonderful city is beyond our present scope. Let us
+      hurry down to Christ Church Meadows, where the Cherwell sweeps round to
+      join the Thames; then across to the Broad Walk, past Merton Meadow and the
+      Botanical Gardens, to Magdalen Bridge, where a splendid view of the city
+      is again obtained; thence up High Street to the centre of the city, and
+      down St. Aldate's Street to Folly Bridge, where boats of all sizes are in
+      waiting. This bridge may appear strangely named, as a main approach to the
+      renowned seat of learning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0014" id="linkimage-0014"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9024.jpg" alt="9024 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9024.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Various stories are told as to the origin of the name. Perhaps it may be
+      from some tradition of Roger Bacon, who had his study and laboratory here,
+      over the ancient gate. There was a saying, that this study would fall when
+      a man more learned than Bacon passed under it; so that the name may be an
+      uncomplimentary reference to the troops of students entering Oxford by
+      this thoroughfare. But such speculations need nut hinder us. We are bound
+      for London&mdash;a voyage of some 115 miles, though only 52 by rail. Many
+      boatmen will prefer to take the train for Goring, saving six-and-twenty
+      miles of water travelling, and avoiding the most tedious and on the whole
+      least picturesque part of the journey. Still, in any case Nuneham must be
+      seen, with Iffley Lock and Sandford Lasher&mdash;familiar names to boating
+      men!&mdash;upon the way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0015" id="linkimage-0015"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8024.jpg" alt="8024 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8024.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Nuneham is a charming domain, scene of picnic parties innumerable, yet
+      freshly beautiful to every visitor who can enjoy woodland walks and
+      verdant slopes, with gardens planned by Mason the poet, in which art and
+      taste have, as it were, only improved upon the hints and suggestions of
+      nature; and breezy heights from which the prospect, if less extensive than
+      some other far-famed English views, may surely vie in loveliness with any
+      of them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The intending visitor must be careful to ascertain the days and conditions
+      of access to the grounds; and in his ramble must be sure to include the
+      old "Carfax" conduit, removed in 1787 from the "four ways" (for the "Car"
+      is evidently <i>quatre</i>, whatever the "fax" may be) in Oxford, and set
+      on a commanding eminence, the distant spires and towers of the city, with
+      Blenheim Woods in the back-ground, being seen in one direction, and the
+      view in another bounded by the line of the Chiltern Hills.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0016" id="linkimage-0016"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8025.jpg" alt="8025 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8025.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      When the oarsman has once left behind the wooded slopes of Nuneham, with
+      the overhanging trees reflected in the silvery waters, he will find the
+      way to Abingdon monotonous. He will perhaps be startled by seeing picnic
+      parties in large boats, towed from the shore by stalwart peasants,
+      harnessed to the rope. Let us hope that the toil is easier than it looks!
+      On the whole, we do not recommend the long détour by Abingdon, although
+      Clifton Hampden is charming, and Dorchester, near the junction of the
+      Thame and the Thames&mdash;once a Roman camp, afterwards the see of the
+      first Bishop of Wessex, but now a poor village&mdash;is well worth a
+      visit. It is startling to find a minster in a hamlet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Probably, however, the antiquarian may be more interested in the remains
+      of the Whittenham earthworks, which in British or Saxon times defended the
+      meeting-point of the rivers. The Thame Hows in on the left.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the hill to the right is Sinodun, a remarkably fine British camp. The
+      whole neighbourhood, so still and peaceful now, tells of bygone greatness,
+      and of many a struggle of which the records have vanished from the page of
+      history. Not far, however, from Dorchester in another direction is
+      Chalgrove Field, where the brave and patriotic Hampden received his
+      death-wound. His name, and that of Falkland, to be noticed farther on,
+      awaken in these scenes now so tranquil the remembrance of the stormy times
+      when, in this Thames Valley, were waged those conflicts out of which in so
+      large a measure sprang the freedom and progress of modern England.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Dorchester we are still eleven miles by water from Goring; and though
+      the angler may loiter down the stream, we must hasten on, though ancient
+      Wallingford and rustic Cleeve are not unworthy of notice. At Goring the
+      chief beauties of the river begin to disclose themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ralph Waldo Emerson says of the English landscape, that "it seems to be
+      finished with the pencil instead of the plough." Our fields are cultivated
+      like gardens. Neat, trim hedgerows, picturesque villages, spires peeping
+      from among groves of trees, cottages gay with flowers and evergreens,
+      suggest that the landscape gardener rather than the agriculturist has been
+      everywhere at work. If this be true of England as a whole, it is yet more
+      strikingly true of the district through which we are about to pass. A
+      thousand years of peaceful industry have subdued the wildness of nature;
+      and the river glides between banks radiant with beauty: "The little hills
+      rejoice on every side; the pastures are clothed with Hocks, the valleys
+      are covered over with corn; they shout for joy, they also sing."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Yet there is no lack of variety. The course of the river is broken up by
+      innumerable "aits" ("eyots"), or little islands; some covered with trees
+      which dip their branches into the stream, others with reeds and osier, the
+      haunts of wild fowl; on others, again, a cottage or a summer-house peeps
+      out from amongst the foliage. Sometimes these aits seem to block up the
+      channel, and leave no exit, so that the boat seems to be afloat on a tiny
+      lake, till a stroke or two of the oar discloses a narrow passage into the
+      stream beyond. Sometimes a line of chalk down bounds the view, its
+      delicately curved sides dotted over with juniper bushes, the dark green of
+      which contrasts finely with the light grey of the turf. Then comes a range
+      of hanging beech-wood coming down to the water's edge, or a broad expanse
+      of meadow, where the cattle wade knee-deep in grass, or a mansion whose
+      grounds have been transformed into a paradise by lavish expenditure and
+      fine taste, or a village, the rustic beauty of which might realise the
+      dreams of poet or of painter. The locks, mill-dams, or weirs with their
+      dashing waters, give animation to the scene. Nor is that additional charm
+      often wanting, of which Dr. Johnson used to speak. "The finest landscape
+      in the world," he would say, "is improved by a good inn in the
+      foreground." True, there are no great hotels, after the modern fashion;
+      but a series of comfortable homely village inns will be found, such as
+      Izaak Walton loved, and which are still favourite haunts with the brethren
+      of "the gentle craft." The landlord, learned in all anglers' lore, is
+      delighted to show where the big pike lies in a sedgy pool, where the perch
+      will bite most freely, or to suggest the most killing fly to cast for
+      trout over the mill-pond; and is not too proud, when the day's task is
+      done, to wait upon the oarsman or the angler at his evening meal.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * As we write, the following letter to the Times arrests our
+     attention; it is too graphic, as well as accurate, to be
+     lost:&mdash;
+
+     "I will not tell you where I am, except that I am staying at
+     an hotel on the banks of the River Thames. I hesitate to
+     name the place, charming as it is, because I am sure, when
+     its beauties are known, it will be hopelessly vulgarised.
+     Mine host, the pleasantest of landlords, his wife, the most
+     agreeable of her sex, will charge, too, in proportion as the
+     plutocracy invade us. I am surrounded by the most charming
+     scenery. Few know, and still fewer appreciate the beauties
+     of our own River Thames. I have been up and down the Rhine;
+     but I confess, taking all in all, Oxford to Gravesend
+     pleases me more. Herc, in addition to what I have described,
+     I am on the river's brink; I can row about to my heart's
+     content for a very moderate figure; excellent fishing;
+     newspapers to be procured, and postal arrangements of a
+     character not to worry you, and yet sufficient to keep you
+     <i>au fait</i> with your business arrangements. What do I want
+     more? Prices are moderate, the village contains houses
+     suitable to all clashes, and the inhabitants are pleased to
+     see you. I can wear flannels without being stared at, and I
+     can see the opposite sex, in the most bewitching and
+     fascinating of costumes, rowing about (with satisfaction,
+     too) the so-called lords of creation. As for children, there
+     is no end of amusement for them&mdash;dabbling in the water,
+     feeding the swans, the fields, and the safety of a punt. We
+     have both aristocratic and well-to-do people here&mdash;names
+     well known in town; but I must not, nor will I, betray them.
+     On the towing-path this morning was to be seen the smartest
+     of our Judges in a straw hat and a tourist suit, equally
+     becoming to him as it was well cut.
+
+     "Let me advise all your readers who are hesitating where to
+     go not to overlook the natural beauties of our River Thames.
+     There are one or two steamers that make the journey up and
+     down the river in three days, stopping at various places,
+     and giving ample opportunity for passengers both to see and
+     appreciate the scenery.
+
+     "E. C. W."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      To describe in detail all the points of beauty that lie before us, would
+      require far more space than we have at disposal; and a dry catalogue of
+      names would interest no one. We have started, as said before, from Goring,
+      where the twin village Streatley&mdash;bearing in its name a reminiscence
+      of the old Roman road Ikenild Street,&mdash;nestles at the foot of its
+      romantic wooded hill. The comfort of the little hostelry and the charm of
+      the scenery invite a longer stay, but we must press on. Pangbourne and
+      Whitchurch, also twin villages, joined by a pretty wooden bridge, once
+      more invite delay. On the right, the little river Pang flows in between
+      green hills; on the left, or the Whitchurch side, heights clothed with the
+      richest foliage shut in the scene. The cottages are embosomed amid the
+      trees; the clear river catches a thousand reflections from hillside, and
+      sky; the waters of the weir dash merrily down; and the fishermen, each in
+      his punt moored near mid-stream, yielding themselves to the tranquil
+      delight of the perfect scene, are further gladdened by many an encouraging
+      nibble. Surely of all amusements the most restful is fishing from a punt!
+      Most persons would find a day of absolute idleness intolerable. But here
+      we have just that measure of expectation and excitement which enable even
+      a busy and active man to sit all day doing nothing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0017" id="linkimage-0017"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8027.jpg" alt="8027 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8027.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Into the question of the cruelty of the sport we do not enter; but its
+      soothing, tranquillising character cannot be denied. For ourselves, our
+      business is not to angle, but to observe. As we row past these grave and
+      solemn men, absorbed in the endeavour to hook a dace or gudgeon, and
+      recognise among them one or two of the hardest workers in London, we feel,
+      at any rate, that the familiar sneer about "a rod with a line at one end,
+      and a fool at the other," may not be altogether just.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Passing a series of verdant lawns, sloping to the river's brink, we reach
+      Mapledurham and Purley, on opposite sides of the river at one of its most
+      exquisite bends. The former place is celebrated by Pope as the retreat of
+      his ladye love Martha Blount; when
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "She went to plain-work, and to purling brooks,
+     Old-fashioned halls, dull aunts, and croaking rooks."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The latter was the residence of Warren Hastings during his trial, and is
+      not to be confounded with the Purley in Surrey, where Horne Tooke wrote
+      his celebrated <i>Diversions</i>, on the origin and history of words.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next halting-place is Caversham, sometimes magniloquently described as
+      "the port of Reading." Here the Thames widens out, as shown in the view
+      which prefaces the present chapter; the eel-traps, or "bucks," extending
+      half across the river. On the occasion of our visit to the spot, it was
+      our intention to stop for the night at Caversham; but as the inn was
+      crowded and noisy, we resolved to push on to Sonning. The evening was
+      already closing in, and before we reached our destination it had grown
+      dark. The trees stood up solemnly against the sky, from which the twilight
+      had not wholly departed. Their shadows fell mysteriously across the river,
+      rendering the task of steering a difficult one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0018" id="linkimage-0018"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9028.jpg" alt="9028 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9028.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      At length the welcome lights of the village were descried through the
+      deepening gloom; and we landed, having suffered no more serious mishap
+      than running into an ait, which our steersman mistook for a shadow, in the
+      endeavour to avoid a shadow which he mistook for the bank. Next morning,
+      after a plunge into the clear cool water of the pool at the foot of
+      Sonning Weir, a scamper round the village, a climb to the top of the tower
+      for the magnificent view, and a hearty breakfast, we were ready for an
+      early start, whilst the dew was yet on the grass, and the air had not lost
+      its freshness. Here the Kennet, "for silver eels renowned," as Pope has
+      it, flows in from the southwest, with its memories of the high-minded and
+      chivalrous Falkland, who fell at the battle of Newbury, on the banks of
+      this river. A little lower down the Loddon enters the Thames from the
+      south, between Shiplake and Wargrave. The picturesque churches of these
+      two villages were soon passed, and we entered the fine expanse of Henley
+      Reach, famous in boat-racing annals. Here for many years the University
+      matches were rowed before their removal to Putney. No sheet of water could
+      be better suited to the purpose, and the change is regretted by many
+      boating-men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0019" id="linkimage-0019"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0030m.jpg" alt="0030m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0030.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      About four miles below Henley, in one of the loveliest spots on the river,
+      are the ruins of Medmenham Abbey, notorious in the latter half of the
+      eighteenth century, as the scene of the foul and blasphemous orgies of the
+      "Franciscans." The club took its name from Sir Francis Dashwood, its
+      founder, and numbered amongst its members many who were conspicuous, not
+      only for rank and station, but for intellectual ability and political
+      influence. Its proceedings were invested with profound secrecy; but enough
+      was known to show that the most degrading vices were practised, and the
+      lowest depths of wickedness reached;&mdash;strange profanation of one of
+      Nature's loveliest shrines!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We are now approaching the point at which the beauty of the river
+      culminates. From Marlow, past Cookham, Hedsor and Cliefden, to Maidenhead,
+      a distance of eight or ten miles, we gladly suspend the labour of the oar,
+      and let the boat drift slowly with the stream. As we glide along, even
+      this gentle motion is too rapid, and we linger on the way to feast our
+      eyes with the infinitely varied combination of chalk cliff and swelling
+      hill and luxuriant foliage which every turn of the river brings to view:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Woods, meadows, hamlets, farms,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Spires in the vale and towers upon the hills;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0020" id="linkimage-0020"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8031.jpg" alt="8031 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8031.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  The great chalk quarries glaring through the shade.
+
+  The pleasant lanes and hedgerows, and those homes
+  Which seemed the very dwellings of content and peace and sunshine." *
+
+     * Down Stream to London. By the Rev. S. J. Stone.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The "castled crags" of the Rhine and the Moselle,&mdash;the "blue rushing
+      of the arrowy Rhone,"&mdash;the massive grandeur of the banks of the
+      Danube, are far more imposing and stimulating; but the quiet, tranquil
+      loveliness of this part of the Thames may make good its claim to take rank
+      even with those world-famed rivers. There is something both unique and
+      charming in the dry "combes," or fissures in the chalk ranges, rapidly
+      descending, and garnished with sweeping foliage of untrimmed beech-trees.
+      The branches gracefully bend down to the slope of the rising sward; while,
+      from the steepness of the angle, the tree-tops appear from below as a
+      succession of pinnacles against the sky. Many a roamer through distant
+      lands has come home to give the palm for the perfection of natural beauty
+      to the rocks and hanging woods of Cliefden. That they are within an hour's
+      run of London does not indeed abate their claim to admiration, but may
+      suggest the reason why they are so comparatively little known. The mansion
+      on the height, designed by Sir Charles Barry, is now in the possession of
+      the Duke of Westminster.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0021" id="linkimage-0021"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9032.jpg" alt="9032 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9032.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Maidenhead is on the other side of the river; Taplow opposite. The bridge
+      between them&mdash;one of Brunei's works, will be noted for its enormous
+      span; its elliptical brick arches being, it is said, the widest of the
+      kind in the world. From this point, if the beauty decreases, the
+      historical interest becomes greater at every turn. First we pass the
+      village and church of Bray. The scenery here is of little interest; but it
+      is impossible not to give a thought to the vicar, Symond Symonds,
+      commemorated in song. Let it be noted, however, that the lyrist has used a
+      poetic licence in his dates. The historian, Thomas Fuller, tells the
+      story: "The vivacious vicar, living under King Henry VIII., Edward VI.,
+      Oueen Mary, and Oueen Elizabeth, was first a Papist, then a Protestant,
+      then a Papist, then a Protestant again. He had seen some martyrs burnt
+      (two miles off), at Windsor, and found this fire too hot for his tender
+      temper. The vicar being taxed by one for being a turncoat and inconstant
+      changeling. 'Not so,' said he, 'for I always kept my principle, which is
+      this&mdash;to live and to die the Vicar of Bray.'" The type is but too
+      true to human nature, and not only in matters ecclesiastical. But instead
+      of staying to moralise, we will notice with interest that in this church
+      is preserved an ancient copy of Fox's <i>Book of Martyrs</i>, chained to
+      the reading-desk, as in the days of Oueen Elizabeth. It is better to be
+      reminded of "the faith and patience of the saints," than of the light
+      conviction and easy apostacy of politic "believers;" and so the old church
+      at Bray has taught us a refreshing and unexpected lesson.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Soon the towers of Windsor are seen rising above the trees; then Eton
+      College comes into view, with its
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+          "distant spires, antique towers
+     That crown the watery glade."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0022" id="linkimage-0022"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0033m.jpg" alt="0033m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0033.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Perhaps the best view of the castle from the Thames is that from a point
+      just beyond the Great Western Railway bridge. When the queen is absent,
+      access is easy. St. George's Chapel, built by Edward IV., is the finest
+      existing specimen of the architecture of that period; and the view from
+      the North Terrace, constructed by Queen Elizabeth, is perhaps the most
+      beautiful on the River Thames.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little lower down, and we are passing between Runnimede ("Meadow of
+      Council"), where the barons camped, and Magna Charta Island, where the
+      great charter of English liberty was signed; and a temporary struggle
+      between king and nobles laid the broad foundations of English freedom.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0023" id="linkimage-0023"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9034.jpg" alt="9034 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9034.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      As we sweep round the bend beneath the broad meadow and the wooded isle,
+      "while we muse the fire burneth,"&mdash;the ardour of grateful love to Him
+      who has shaped the destinies of our beloved land, and has never from that
+      hour withdrawn the trust then committed to the nation, of being the
+      guardians and pioneers of the world's freedom. A multitude of thoughts and
+      questionings throng in upon us, but we must not lose the opportunity of
+      impressing on our memory the outward features of the scene. There is not
+      much to see: if there be time to land upon the island, it will be as well
+      to do so, and enter the pretty modern cottage there erected, containing
+      the very stone&mdash;if tradition is to be believed&mdash;on which the
+      Charter was laid for the royal signature.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Runnimede, it is but an easy climb to the brow of Cooper's Hill, with
+      its far-famed view of the river, of Windsor, and its woods. Dr. Johnson
+      speaks of Sir John Denham's poem, of which we have taken some lines as the
+      motto to this chapter, as "the first English specimen of local poetry."
+      Its subject, as well as its style, will preserve it from the oblivion to
+      which the greater number of the poet's works have descended.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another Coin falls into the river, to the left, a little farther on&mdash;suggestive,
+      in its name, of the Roman occupation; the "street" to the west here
+      crossing the Thames by a bridge. "London Stone," a few hundred yards lower
+      down, marks the entrance into Middlesex; then clean and quiet Staines&mdash;&mdash;"Stones,"
+      so termed, perhaps, from the piers of the old Roman bridge, or, it may be,
+      from the London Stone itself, comes into view: but if the traveller has
+      time to spare, he will rather pause at Laleham, so well known to every
+      Christian educator as the earliest scene of Arnold's labours.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0024" id="linkimage-0024"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0035m.jpg" alt="0035m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0035.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      "The first reception of the tidings of his election at Rugby," we are told
+      by his biographer, "was overclouded with deep sorrow at leaving the scene
+      of so much happiness. Years after he had left it, he still retained his
+      early affection for it, and till he had purchased his house in
+      Westmoreland, he entertained a lingering hope that he might return to it
+      in his old age, when he should have retired from Rugby. Often he would
+      revisit it, and delighted in renewing his acquaintance with all the
+      families of the poor whom he had known during his residence; in showing to
+      his children his former haunts; in looking once again on his favourite
+      views of the great plain of Middlesex&mdash;the lonely walks along the
+      quiet banks of the Thames&mdash;the retired garden with its 'Campus
+      Martins,' and its 'wilderness of trees;' which lay behind the house, and
+      which had been the scenes of so many sportive games and serious
+      conversations." *
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0025" id="linkimage-0025"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9036.jpg" alt="9036 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9036.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Chertsey, on the other side of the river, is next passed, the leisurely
+      traveller having the opportunity, if he so please, of visiting the house
+      of Cowley the poet, or of climbing to St. Anne's Hill, once the residence
+      of the statesman Charles James Fox.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then, still on the right, the mouth of the Wey is seen, the pretty town of
+      Wey-bridge not being far off. Towns and villages now multiply: the villas
+      of city men begin to dot the banks, and the suburban railway station
+      appears, with its hurrying morning and evening crowds. The chronicle of
+      names now would be like the monotonous cry of the railway porter:
+      "Shepperton; Walton; Sunbury; Hampton." But as yet we need not join with
+      the throng. The "silent highway"&mdash;as the river has been called&mdash;is
+      also a retreat. Still we can leisurely survey the charm, which, so long as
+      the sky, the water, and the trees remain, no builder can efface, although
+      he may try his best, or worst.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A bend in the river between Shepperton and Walton is of historic interest,
+      as there Julius Cæsar with his legions forced the passage of the Thames,
+      and routed the British General Cassivelaunus. "Cæsar led his army to the
+      territories of Cassivelaunus, to the river Thames, which river can be
+      crossed on foot in one place only, and that with difficulty. On arriving,
+      he perceived that great forces of the enemy were drawn up on the opposite
+      bank, which was moreover fortified by sharp stakes set along the margin, a
+      similar stockade being fixed in the bed of the river, and covered by the
+      stream. Having ascertained these facts from prisoners and deserters, Cæsar
+      sent the cavalry in front, and ordered the legions to follow immediately.
+      The soldiers advanced with such rapidity and impetuosity, although up to
+      their necks in the water, that the enemy could not withstand the onset,
+      but quitted the banks and betook themselves to flight." * The name Cowey,
+      or Coway Stakes, to this day commemorates the event.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Stanley's <i>Life</i> vol. i. p. 37. One of Arnold's Laleham
+     pupils, afterwards his colleague at Rugby, writes: "The most
+     remarkable thing which struck me at once in joining the
+     Laleham circle, was the wonderful healthiness of tone and
+     feeling which prevailed in it. Everything about me I
+     immediately felt to be most real; it was a place where a
+     new-comer at once felt that a great and earnest work was
+     going forward. Dr. Arnold's great power as a private tutor
+     resided in this, that he gave such an intense earnestness to
+     life. Every pupil was made to feel that there was a work for
+     him to do&mdash;that his happiness as well as his duty lay in
+     doing that work well. Hence, an indescribable zest was
+     communicated to a young man's feeling about life; a strange
+     joy came over him on discovering that he had the means of
+     being useful, and thus of being happy; and a deep respect
+     and ardent attachment sprang up towards him who had taught
+     him thus to value life and his own self, and his work and
+     mission in this world." September 23, 1872.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0026" id="linkimage-0026"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0038m.jpg" alt="0038m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0038.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Who calls the council, states the certain day.
+     Who forms the phalanx, and who points the way."&mdash;<i>Pope</i>
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0027" id="linkimage-0027"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0039m.jpg" alt="0039m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0039.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Two or three miles farther, and just past Hampton village, on the left
+      bank, the traveller will notice a little rotunda with a Grecian portico
+      with a mansion of some pretensions in the wooded back-ground. The house
+      was Garrick's residence, and in the rotunda there originally stood
+      Roubiliac's famous statue of Shakspere, now in the British Museum. Bushey
+      Park and Hampton Court next tempt us to the shore. Great names of history
+      again rise to memory&mdash;Wolsey, Cromwell, Williams. But the charm of
+      Hampton Court is, that its palace and gardens are free of access to the
+      people; a privilege which, all the summer through, is appreciated by
+      eager, happy throngs. But let us cross the river to the comparative
+      solitude of the two Dittons&mdash;"Thames," and "Long." An <i>impromptu</i>
+      of poor Theodore Hook, lively and graceful, according to his wont, has led
+      many a tourist in search of a holiday to this pretty neighbourhood, and
+      the poet's memory is reverenced in the village accordingly. Here are the
+      first and last verses:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  "When sultry suns and dusty streets proclaim town's 'winter season,'
+  And rural scenes and cool retreats sound something like high treason&mdash;
+  I steal away to shades serene which yet no bard has hit on,
+  And change the bustling, heartless scene for quietude and Ditlon.
+  Here, in a placid waking dream, I'm free from worldly troubles,
+  Calm as the rippling silver stream that in the sunshine bubbles;
+  And when sweet Eden's blissful bowers, some abler bard has writ on.
+  Despairing to transcend his powers, I'll-ditto-say for Ditton."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Then comes trim Surbiton with its villas, and Kingston&mdash;once, as its
+      name imports, a town of kings. Por here were crowned several Saxon
+      monarchs; is there not the coronation-stone in the market-place, engraven
+      with their names? Teddington Lock, a little lower down, is the last upon
+      the Thames; and here too the anglers of the river put forth their chief
+      and almost their final strength. The mile from Teddington to Eel-pie
+      Island off Twickenham will be a quiet one indeed, if the voyager interfere
+      not with the sport of one or other of these gentry, and draw down their
+      resentment accordingly. Strawberry Hill reminds us of Horace Walpole,
+      literary idleness, sham Gothic, and <i>bric-à-brac</i>. We glance and pass
+      on. Pope's Villa no longer exists; only a relic of his famous grotto
+      remains; but a monument to the poet is in Twickenham Church, with an
+      inscription by Warburton, setting forth that Pope "would not be buried in
+      Westminster Abbey."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Past wood-fringed meadows on either hand, the "Broadwater," now rightly
+      named&mdash;sweeps on to Richmond, where we must ascend the far-famed
+      hill, to gaze once more upon the finest river-view in Europe. A little
+      farther down, on autumn days, off lsleworth, may be descried flights of
+      swallows, preparing for their outward journey. "They arrive," writes the
+      artist who has depicted the scene, "in a mass, at the same hour, without
+      confusion, as it were in regiments, and in some of their oblique
+      evolutions resemble a drift of black snow. At dusk they all sink down into
+      the island or 'ait' opposite the church of Isleworth, where a large bed of
+      osiers affords them in its slender wands a settling-place for the night."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0028" id="linkimage-0028"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0041m.jpg" alt="0041m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0041.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      From this point, all Londoners know their river. The beauty of nature is
+      no longer present, but a new sentiment of wonder and interest takes
+      possession of us. We feel the stir and hear the roar of the great Babel.
+      What were once quiet suburban villages are now but a part of the
+      metropolis. Still, however, they retain something of the quaint
+      picturesqueness of the last century. In many a nook and corner we come
+      upon solid comfortable houses of red brick, where our great-grandmothers,
+      over a "dish of tea," may have discussed the "poems of a person of
+      quality," or "the writings of the ingenious Mr. Addison."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0029" id="linkimage-0029"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8043.jpg" alt="8043 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8043.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      These relics of the last century are rapidly disappearing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Cheyne Walk at Chelsea, which now forms so striking an object from the
+      river, can hardly hold out much longer against the march of modern
+      improvement, and will probably ere long share the fate of the Lord Mayor's
+      barge, and disappear from view.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The noble embankments which now skirt so large a portion of the London
+      river, and the bridges old and new, afford every facility for the full
+      study of the Thames in all its aspects. Yet those who only cross with the
+      hurrying crowd miss half the picturesqueness of what many who have
+      travelled far feel to be among the most picturesque city views in Europe.
+      Wordsworth's sonnet, beginning&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Earth has not anything to show more fair,"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      was written on Westminster Bridge! But then it was on an early summer
+      morning, when the "mighty heart" of the city was "lying still," and the
+      "very houses seemed asleep." The blue sky, unobscured by smoke, hung in
+      the freshness of the dawn over the dwellings of men and the
+      heaven-pointing spires. The night airs had swept away every city taint,
+      and the atmosphere was pure as among the mountains or by the sea. The
+      experiment is worth making still at the cost of an hour or two's earlier
+      rising, to prove how exhilarating, fresh, and delightful the London air
+      may be.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Or perhaps the charm of the scene may be more deeply felt amid the mystery
+      of night, when the clouds have dispersed, and but for some rare footfalls
+      there is silence, and the countless lights stretch in long lines,
+      reflected by the gently rippling waters, while even the bright glare of
+      the railway lamps aloft only add colour and splendour to the gleaming
+      array, and the steadfast stars hang overhead. By night or in early
+      morning, perhaps through force of contrast, the full beauty of these
+      London river scenes are felt. Or, to vary the impression, we may take
+      boat, as did our fathers, from bridge to bridge, "from Westminster to
+      Rotherhithe," or farther down the broadening stream, with the wealth of
+      the world, as it almost seems, ranged on either hand in the close-crowded
+      vessels or the stupendous warehouses. Every such excursion is a new
+      revelation, even to minds accustomed to the scene, of what is meant by
+      English commerce, and of the ties which connect us with all mankind. Yet
+      there is much to remind us that the universal reign of peace has not as
+      yet set in. Grim preparations for defence and war bespeak a nation
+      prepared, if needs be, for strife. And as at length we reach Tilbury Fort,
+      and glow under the influence of the invigorating sea-breeze, great
+      memories rush in upon us of armaments once gathered here; to lead, as it
+      seemed, the forlorn hope;&mdash;to attain, as by God's great mercy it
+      proved, the triumphant victory, of British Protestantism and liberty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When King James I. threatened the recalcitrant corporation of London with
+      the removal of the court to Oxford, the Lord Mayor, with scarcely veiled
+      sarcasm, replied, "May it please your Majesty, of your grace, not to take
+      away the Thames too!" If the Upper Thames awakens our admiration by its
+      loveliness, the Lower Thames inspires us with wonder and almost awe at the
+      boundless wealth and world-wide commerce which it bears upon its ample
+      bosom. Other rivers may vie with it in beauty. In far-reaching influence
+      it stands alone. As we sail through its forest of masts, or follow its
+      course down to the sea, we feel that we are surrounded by influences which
+      stretch to the very ends of the earth. The stream whose course we have
+      traced from the tiny rivulet in Trewsbury Mead has become the channel of
+      communications which, for good or evil, are affecting every nation under
+      heaven. May He who has endowed us with such wealth and power lead us to
+      hold them both under a deep sense of responsibility to Him who gave them!&mdash;"Then
+      shall our peace flow like a river, and our righteousness as the waves of
+      the sea."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      SOUTH-EASTERN RAMBLES
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0030" id="linkimage-0030"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0046m.jpg" alt="0046m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0046.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">H</span>E is a benefactor
+      to his species who makes two blades of corn grow where only one grew
+      before." The substantial truth of the aphorism none will question; vet it
+      would be a doubtful benefit if all our waste lands were reclaimed and
+      brought under the plough. Enclosure Acts, by extending the area of our
+      productive soil, have increased the resources of the country and the food
+      of the people. But the total absorption into cultivated farms of heath,
+      forest, and woodland would be to purchase the utilitarian advantage at too
+      high a price.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The open commons of Surrey and the rolling downs of Sussex are, in their
+      way, of a beauty unsurpassed. Both are chiefly due to the great chalk
+      formation, which comes down in a south-westerly direction from the eastern
+      counties, breaks into the Chiltern Hills, extends over the greater part of
+      Wiltshire, Dorsetshire, and Hampshire; and in the east of the last-named
+      county becomes separated into two branches; one, the "North Downs,"
+      running almost due east to the North Foreland and Shakespere's Cliff; the
+      other, the "South Downs," pursuing a south-easterly direction to Beachy
+      Head. In their long and undulating course, they form innumerable
+      combinations of picturesque beauty. Places elsewhere, well known and
+      deservedly famous, are rivalled in loveliness by many a sequestered scene
+      in the line of the lower chalk country, of which few but the
+      thinly-scattered inhabitants, and now and then an unconventional tourist,
+      have ever heard.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0031" id="linkimage-0031"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0048m.jpg" alt="0048m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0048.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The charm of these lines of rolling upland is much enhanced by the great
+      rough plain which they inclose&mdash;"the Weald" (i.e. Forest), as it is
+      termed&mdash;extending in an irregular triangle from the point where the
+      Downs diverge to the British Channel. Geologists have framed many theories
+      as to the formation of the Weald. It belongs to the Oolite formation below
+      the chalk; it is the uppermost member of that formation, and was a deposit
+      of sands and clays in a tropical climate, as is abundantly evident from
+      animal and vegetable remains found there. These prove the existence of
+      islands, banks and forests, forming the shores of a vast estuary, the
+      embouchure of some great river from the west. At one time, the deep chalk
+      deposit extended all over it; but this was disturbed by a line of
+      elevation running along its east and west axis, the superincumbent chalk
+      being broken up and washed away; hence the cliff-like aspect of the Downs
+      in many places, where they descend precipitously to the sandy and gravelly
+      edge of the valley, as to a beach. The remains of the huge land lizards
+      and iguanodons of the Weald, collected by the late Dr. Mantell, form one
+      of the most conspicuous exhibitions of fossil bones in the British Museum.
+      The pretty little fossil ferns, Lonchopteris and Sphenopteris, found
+      nature-printed on the sandstones, are, on the other hand, the very
+      counterparts, in size and delicacy, of their present successors.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In early times, as every local historian tells, the Weald was a chief seat
+      of the iron manufacture in Great Britain. The ironstone found here was
+      certainly wrought by the Romans and Saxons, if not by the ancient Britons;
+      and down to the seventeenth century the trade was prosperous. Many an old
+      manor-house, to the present day, attests this former prosperity, while its
+      memories linger also in such local names as Furnace Place, Cinder Hill,
+      and Hammer Ponds. The balustrades round St. Paul's Cathedral are a relic
+      of the Sussex ironworks. Want of fuel, and the more abundant and rich
+      ironstone of the Coal-measures, caused the decay of the industry, after
+      whole forests had been destroyed to feed the furnaces. The old-fashioned
+      cottages, here and there remaining, speak of days of former prosperity
+      among the working-classes; nor are they even yet devoid of comfort,
+      although the transition has been great&mdash;ironworkers then,
+      chicken-fatteners now!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ridge that runs through the centre of the Weald is called the Forest
+      Ridge and Ashdown. It is here that the chief beauties of the district are
+      concentrated, while the whole plain lies open to view from the heights.
+      Starting from East Grinstead, near to which is the source of the Medway, a
+      walk of extraordinary interest and sylvan beauty leads by Forest Row and
+      the ruins of Brambletye House up to High Beeches; from which spot a
+      pleasant excursion may be made to Horsted Keynes, where the gentle and
+      saintly Archbishop Leighton lies buried. His grave is in the chancel; his
+      tomb outside the church. Thence, bearing to the east, the traveller may
+      work his way to Crowborough Beacon, near the road from Tunbridge Wells to
+      Lewes, where, with a foreground of moss and fern, dotted here and there by
+      fir trees, he may look over the whole rolling surface of the Weald, rich
+      with the flowers of spring, the blossoms of summer, or the golden fruitage
+      and yellow corn of the autumn; while the purple downs on either hand close
+      in the prospect, with just one gleam, beyond Beachy Head, of the distant
+      sea. Then, if desirous of prolonging his ramble to other points of view,
+      he may cross the hills to Heathfield, resting on the way at Mayfield, an
+      old-world Wealden town, once a residence of archbishops, and the
+      traditional scene of the renowned combat between Dunstan and the Devil.
+      Here the traveller may find a temporary resting-place in some rustic
+      hostelry, where, if luxuries are not obtainable, the eggs and bacon are
+      wholesome and abundant; the sheets are fragrant with lavender, and though
+      perhaps a little wondered at by the rustic children, he will have a
+      home-like welcome.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0032" id="linkimage-0032"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0050m.jpg" alt="0050m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0050.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Again we leave the beaten track, and push on through the vale of
+      Heathfield to the south; for a walk of seven or eight miles will bring us
+      to Hurstmonceux, inseparably connected with the name and work of
+      Archdeacon Hare, the philosophic theologian and devout Christian, whose
+      books on the Victory of Faith and the Mission of the Comforter have done
+      so much to elevate the religious thought of the age; and who, by his <i>Vindication
+      of Luther</i>, has made it impossible for any man of competent knowledge
+      and fair judgment to repeat old calumnies against the great Reformer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0033" id="linkimage-0033"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0051m.jpg" alt="0051m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0051.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      We visit the castle&mdash;one of the finest remains of the later feudalism&mdash;fortress
+      and mansion in one. "Persons who have visited Rome," writes Archdeacon
+      Hare, "on entering the Castle-court, and seeing the piles of brickwork
+      strewn about, have been reminded of the Baths of Caracalla, though of
+      course on a miniature scale; the illusion being perhaps fostered by the
+      deep blue of the Sussex sky, which, when compared with that in more
+      northerly parts of England, has almost an Italian character." After
+      exploring the great ruddy-tinted ruins, we may ascend to the church,
+      taking a glance at the rectory, the home of so much piety and genius,
+      seeing once again in thought the archdeacon's friend and curate, poor John
+      Sterling, as described by Hare, with his tall form rapidly advancing
+      across the lawn to the study window; or more pensively may pass to the
+      churchyard, where so many members of the parted family band sleep as "one
+      in Christ."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before turning northwards, let us make our way to Beachy Mead, grandest of
+      the English chalk headlands in the south; or, resting for a while at
+      Eastbourne, that bright modern watering-place, between the sea and the
+      hills, with the quaint Sussex village in the background, we may prepare
+      for a long, health-giving, inspiring ramble over the South Downs, "that
+      chain of majestic mountains," as White of Selborne calls them&mdash;for
+      the most part bare treeless hills, sweeping in many a grand curve, broken
+      by shadowed "coombes," or wooded flowery "deans." On the way to Lewes,
+      Firle Beacon, one of the highest points of the Downs, may be ascended,
+      after which the traveller may take the rail to Brighton and Shoreham, and
+      strike up hill again into what is perhaps the finest part of the range,
+      where, from Chanctonbury Ring, he will be able to command at one view all
+      its most characteristic features. The height itself is conspicuous far and
+      wide, from its dark crown of fir trees. Probably the "Ring" denotes here
+      the ancient entrenchment, British or Roman, which is circular, or it may
+      be a reminiscence of the time when fairies were believed in; "fairy rings"
+      being a common feature of the Downs; caused really by the growth of
+      mushrooms, the grass, by the decay of the latter, becoming of a deeper
+      green.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0034" id="linkimage-0034"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0053m.jpg" alt="0053m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0053.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Steyning is the nearest station to Chanctonbury, and we would advise the
+      tourist to take train there for the North Downs, or better still, to
+      proceed in the opposite direction to Arundel, famous for its picturesque
+      castle and park, with its fair historic pastures: but in either case the
+      Weald will be crossed via Horsham. About half way between Arundel and
+      Horsham, many a traveller will be disposed to turn off to the little
+      Sussex town of Midhurst, on the edge of the Weald, where Richard Cobden
+      was born, and where the old "Schola Grammaticalis," the most prominent
+      building in the town, has the twin honour of the great Free Trader's early
+      education, as well as that of Sir Charles Lyell, the geologist. Between
+      this town and Dorking, whither the traveller is bound, he may see to his
+      left the wooded slopes and imposing tower-crowned summit of Leith Hill,
+      the loftiest elevation in southeastern England. If he can leave the rail,
+      say at the little roadside station of Capel, and climb the hill from the
+      south-east by Ockley and Tanhurst, he will not only be richly rewarded,
+      but may perhaps express his astonishment that such views and such a walk
+      should be found within a short afternoon's journey of London. From the
+      summit of Leith Hill, it is said that ten counties are visible; not only
+      Kent, Sussex, and Surrey, but Hampshire, Berkshire, Oxfordshire,
+      Buckinghamshire, Middlesex. Hertfordshire, and Essex. The eye ranges, in
+      short, from a height of just less than 1000 feet over a circumference of
+      200 miles of fair and various landscape; valley and upland; broad meadows
+      and wooded slopes, with many an open ridge against the sky. Only the charm
+      of river or lake is wanting; but we are in no mood to be critical.
+      Downwards, the walk is full of interest, through wooded lanes to
+      Anstiebury, where there is a fine Roman encampment, and on to romantic
+      Holmwood, with its pine woods and breezy common; past Deepdene, the
+      wonderfully beautiful seat of the Hope family, and so to Dorking, where
+      the wearied pedestrian will find a pleasant rest, with nothing to excite
+      him, save the remembrances of his little excursion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0035" id="linkimage-0035"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0055m.jpg" alt="0055m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0055.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      If he were not well prepared for its exceeding loveliness beforehand, it
+      must have been to him a surprise as well as a delight. Comparisons are
+      proverbially distasteful, but we can understand, if we can not wholly
+      endorse, the rapturous verdict of John Dennis, who gives it as his opinion
+      that the prospect from Leith Hill "surpasses at once in rural charm, pomp,
+      and magnificence" the view of the Val d'Arno from the Apennines, or of the
+      Campagna from Tivoli.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0036" id="linkimage-0036"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0056m.jpg" alt="0056m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0056.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      We are now fairly in the Surrey Hills, and may put what some will think
+      the very crown to these south-eastern excursions by a walk from Dorking to
+      Farnham. Ascending by one of many lanes, shadowed (at the time of our
+      visit) by hedges bright with hawthorn berries, and stately trees just
+      touched with the russet and gold of early autumn, we are soon upon an
+      upland stretch of heath and forest, still remaining in all the wildness of
+      nature. Sometimes the path leads us between venerable trees&mdash;oak and
+      beech and yew, whose branches form an impenetrable roof overhead, then
+      traverses a sweep of bare hill, bright with gorse and heather, then
+      plunges into some fairy dell, carpeted with softest moss. Many of the
+      "stately homes of England," with their embowering trees upon the lower
+      slopes, add a charm to the scene by their reminiscences as well as by
+      their beauty. To the left is Wotton; made famous by the name and genius of
+      John Evelyn, author of <i>Sylva</i> and the <i>Diary</i>&mdash;the
+      scholar, gentleman, and Christian&mdash;pure-minded in an age of
+      corruption, and the admiration of dissolute courtiers, who could respect
+      what they would not imitate. It is to him that Cowley says:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Happy art thou, whom God does bless
+     With the full choice of thine own happiness;
+     And happier yet, because thou'rt blest
+     With wisdom how to choose the best."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      That the choice was made, for life and death, appears by the inscription
+      which Evelyn directed to be placed on his tombstone at Wotton. "That
+      living in an age of extraordinary events and revolution, he had learned
+      from thence this truth, which he desired might be thus communicated to
+      posterity: that all is vanity which is not honest, and that there is no
+      solid wisdom but real piety."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Two or three miles further Albury is reached, with its lovely gardens
+      designed by Evelyn. The curious traveller may here inspect the sumptuous
+      church erected by the late Mr. Drummond, the owner of Albury, for the
+      followers of Edward Irving. The worth of Mr. Drummond's character, with
+      the shrewd sense and caustic wit by which he was wont to enliven the
+      debates of the House of Commons, laid a deeper hold upon his
+      contemporaries than his theological peculiarities; and the special views
+      of which this temple is the costly memorial have proved of insufficient
+      power to sway the minds and hearts of men. Still ascending, we reach again
+      the summit of steep downs, and advancing by noble yew-trees gain at
+      Newland's Corner another magnificent view. The hill of the "Holy Martyrs'"
+      Chapel, now corrupted to "Saint Martha's," may next be climbed, and a
+      short rest at the fine old town of Guildford will be welcome. The castle,
+      the churches with their monuments, and Archbishop Abbot's Hospital, are
+      all worthy of a visit; but, unless we have a day to spare, we must be
+      content with but a hurried glance, for we have still the "Hog's Back" to
+      traverse, a ten miles' walk to Farnham.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Climbing from the station at Guildford through pleasant lanes, the
+      traveller emerges upon a narrow chalk-ridge, half-a-mile wide, and nearly
+      level, which etymologists tell us was called by the Anglo-Saxons <i>Hoga</i>,
+      a hill, whence the ridge received its name. Possibly, however, a simpler
+      derivation, as the more obvious, is also the more correct. The long upland
+      unbroken line might not unaptly have been compared with one of those long,
+      lean, narrow-backed swine with which early English illuminations make us
+      familiar; and the homeliness of the name would quite accord with the habit
+      of early topographers. The walk is interesting, but, after the varied
+      beauties of the way from Dorking to Guildford, may appear at first
+      slightly monotonous. On either side the fair, fertile champaign of Surrey
+      stretches to the horizon, broken here and there by low wood-crowned hills,
+      and at one point especially, between Puttenham on the left, and Wanborough
+      on the right, the combinations of view are very striking. Puttenham
+      church-tower, and the manor-house, formerly the Priory, peep out from
+      amongst the foliage of some grand old trees. A few cottages and farmhouses
+      lie scattered about picturesquely, forming the very ideal of an old
+      English village; while pine-covered Crooksbury Hill, with the Devil's
+      Jumps and Hindhead in the farther distance, make a striking background to
+      the view. "Wan" is evidently "Woden," and here there was no doubt a shrine
+      of the ancient Saxon deity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We must not omit in passing to drink of the Wanborough spring, among the
+      freshest and purest in England; never known, it is said, to freeze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Pursuing our journey, we presently look down upon Moor Park and Waverley,
+      which we may either visit now, descending by the little, village of Seale,
+      or reserve for an excursion from Farnham. Waverley contains the
+      picturesque remains of an old Cistercian Abbey, built as the Cistercians
+      always did build, in a charming valley, embosomed in hills, irrigated by a
+      clear running stream, abounding in fish, and with current enough to turn
+      the mill of the monastery. The annals of this great establishment,
+      extending over two hundred and thirty years, were published towards the
+      close of the seventeenth century; and Sir Walter Scott took from them the
+      name now so familiar wherever the English language is spoken.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Divided from Waverley by a winding lane, whose high banks and profuse
+      undergrowth remind us of Devonshire, lies Moor Park. Hither Sir William
+      Temple retired from the toils of State, to occupy his leisure by
+      gardening, planting, and in writing memoirs. A trim garden, with
+      stiff-clipped hedges, and watered by a straight canal which runs through
+      it, is doubtless a reminiscence of Temple's residence as our ambassador at
+      the Hague. "But," says Lord Macaulay, "there were other inmates of Moor
+      Park to whom a higher interest belongs. An eccentric, uncouth,
+      disagreeable young Irishman, who had narrowly escaped plucking at Dublin,
+      attended Sir William as an amanuensis for board and twenty pounds a year;
+      dined at the second table, wrote bad verses in praise of his employer, and
+      made love to a very pretty dark-eyed young girl, who waited on Lady
+      Giffard. Little did Temple imagine that the coarse exterior of his
+      dependant concealed a genius equally suited to politics and to letters, a
+      genius destined to shake great kingdoms, to stir the laughter and the rage
+      of millions, and to leave to posterity memorials which can only perish
+      with the English language. Little did he think that the flirtation in his
+      servants' hall, which he, perhaps, scarcely deigned to make the subject of
+      a jest, was the beginning of a long, unprosperous love, which was to be as
+      widely famed as the passion of Petrarch or Abelard. Sir William's
+      secretary was Jonathan Swift. Lady Giffard's waiting-maid was poor
+      Stella."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Just outside the lodge gate, at the end of the park furthest from the
+      mansion, is a small house covered with roses and evergreens. It is known
+      to the peasantry as Dame Swift's cottage. Our rustic guide pointed it out
+      by this name, but who Dame Swift was he did not know. He had never heard
+      of Stella and her sad history. An object of far greater interest to him
+      was a large fox-earth, a couple of hundred yards away, in which some years
+      ago "a miser" had lived and died. A whole crop of legends have already
+      sprung up about the mysterious inmate of the cave. He was a nobleman, so
+      said our informant, who had been crossed in love: he had made a vow that
+      no human being should see his face, and accordingly never came out till
+      after nightfall, even then being closely wrapped up in his cloak. After
+      his death a party of ladies and gentlemen came down from London in a
+      post-chaise and four; and having buried the body carried away "a cartload
+      of golden guineas and fine dresses, which he had hid in the cave."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0037" id="linkimage-0037"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0059m.jpg" alt="0059m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0059.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The picturesqueness of the approach to Farnham, whether over the last
+      ridge of the Hog's Back, or through the lanes from Seale, Moor Park, and
+      Waverley, is much enhanced by the hop-gardens, which occupy about a
+      thousand acres in the neighbourhood. For excellence the Farnham hops are
+      considered to bear the palm, although the chief field of this peculiar
+      branch of cultivation is in Kent. No south-eastern rambles, especially in
+      the early autumn, would be complete without a visit to the gardens where
+      the hop-picking is in full operation. It is the great holiday for
+      thousands of the humbler class of Londoners, as well as the chosen resort
+      of thousands of the "finest pisantry" from the Emerald Isle.
+      Costermongers, watermen, sempstresses, factory girls, labourers of all
+      descriptions, young and old, bear a hand at the work. The air is
+      invigorating, the task to the industrious is easy, and the pay is not bad.
+      The hop-pickers, who are in such numbers that they cannot obtain even
+      humble lodgings in the villages, sleep in barns, sheds, stables, and
+      booths, or even under the hedges in the lanes. A rough kind of order is
+      maintained among themselves; although outbreaks of violence and debauchery
+      sometimes happen. On the whole the work is not unhealthy, and the
+      opportunity of engaging in it is as real a boon to the hop-pickers as the
+      journey to Scarborough or Biarritz to those of another class. Besides
+      which, the great gathering of people gives opportunities of which
+      Christian activity avails itself; and the evening visit to the encampment,
+      the homely address, the quiet talk, and the well-chosen tract, have been
+      instrumental of lasting good to those whom religious agencies elsewhere
+      had failed to reach.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0038" id="linkimage-0038"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0060m.jpg" alt="0060m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0060.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Farnham has special associations with both the Church and the Army; and
+      the impartial visitor will no doubt take an opportunity of seeing the
+      stately moated castle, the abode of the Bishops of Winchester, and of
+      visiting the neighbouring camp of Aldershot. The politician will recal the
+      name of William Cobbett, who was born in this neighbourhood, and in his
+      own direct and homely style, often dwells on his boyish recollections of
+      its charms. Some will not forget another name associated with this little
+      Surrey town. One among the sweetest singers of our modern Israel, Augustus
+      Toplady, was born at Farnham. He died at the age of thirty-eight, but he
+      lived long enough to write "Rock of Ages, cleft for me and none need covet
+      a nobler earthly immortality."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0039" id="linkimage-0039"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0062m.jpg" alt="0062m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0062.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      OUR FOREST AND WOODLANDS
+    </h2>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>HEN Britain was
+      first brought by Roman ambition within the knowledge of Southern Europe,
+      the interior of our Island was one vast forest. Cæsar and Strabo agree in
+      describing its towns as being nothing more than spaces cleared of trees&mdash;"royds,"
+      or "thwaites" in North of England phrase&mdash;where a few huts were
+      placed and defended by ditch or rampart. Somersetshire and the adjacent
+      counties were covered by the Coit Mawr, or Great Wood. Asser tells us that
+      Berkshire was so called from the Wood of Berroc, where the box-tree grew
+      most abundantly. Buckinghamshire was so called from the great forests of
+      beech (boc), of which the remnants still survive. The Cotswold Hills, and
+      the Wolds of Yorkshire, are shown by their names to have been once
+      far-spreading woodlands; and the same may be said of the Weald of Sussex,
+      the subject, in part, of the preceding chapter. "In the district of the
+      Weald," writes the Rev. Isaac Taylor, "almost every local name, for miles
+      and miles, terminates in <i>hurst, ley, den, or field</i>. The <i>hursts</i>
+      were the dense portions of the forests; the <i>leys</i> are the open
+      forest-glades where the cattle love to lie; the dens are the deep wooded
+      valleys, and the <i>fields</i> were little patches of 'felled' or cleared
+      land in the midst of the surrounding forest. From Petersfield and
+      Midhurst, by Billinghurst, Cuckfield, Wadhurst, and Lamberhurst, as far as
+      Hawkshurst and Tenterden, these names stretch in an uninterrupted string."
+      And, again, "A line of names ending in <i>den</i> testifies to the
+      existence of the forest tract in Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire, and
+      Huntingdon, which formed the western boundary of the East Saxon and East
+      Anglican Kingdoms. Henley in Arden and Hampton in Arden are vestiges of
+      the great Warwickshire forest of Arden, which stretched from the Forest of
+      Dean to Sherwood Forest." * Hampshire was already a forest in the time of
+      William the Conqueror: all he did was to sweep away the towns and villages
+      which had sprung up within its precincts. Epping and Hainault are but
+      fragments of the ancient forest of Essex, which extended as far as
+      Colchester. Lancashire, Cheshire, Yorkshire, and the other northern
+      counties, were the haunts of the wolf, the wild boar, and the red deer,
+      which roamed at will over moorland and forest, and have given their names
+      here and there to a bold upland or sequestered nook.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Even down to the time of Oueen Elizabeth immense tracts of primeval forest
+      remained unreclaimed. Sir Henry Spelman ** gives the following list of
+      those which were still in existence.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Words and Places, pp. 381-3.
+
+     ** Quoted in <i>English Forests and Forest Trees.</i>
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0040" id="linkimage-0040"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0064m.jpg" alt="0064m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0064.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0041" id="linkimage-0041"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0065m.jpg" alt="0065m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0065.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      This list is evidently far from complete. It may, however, serve to show
+      the extent of unreclaimed land in England so recently as the sixteenth
+      century. And here, it should be noted, that though, as a matter of fact,
+      forest lands are generally woodlands also, this is not essential to the
+      meaning of the word. A "forest," says Mr. Hensleigh Wedgwood, * "is
+      properly a wilderness, or uncultivated tract of country; but, as such were
+      commonly overgrown with trees, the word took the meaning of a large wood.
+      We have many forests in England without a stick of timber upon them." It
+      is especially so in Scotland, as many a traveller who has ridden all the
+      long day by the treeless "Forest of Breadalbane" will well remember.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * <i>Dictionary of English Etymology.</i>
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The question has been recently much discussed whether our forests ought to
+      be retained in their present extent. Economists have shown by calculation
+      that forests do not pay. It is said that they encourage idleness and
+      poaching, and thus lead to crime. Estimates have been made of the amount
+      of corn which might be raised if the soil were brought under the plough.
+      Yet few persons who have wandered through the glades of our glorious
+      woodlands would be willing to part with them. Admit that the cost of
+      maintenance is in excess of their return to the national exchequer; yet
+      England is rich enough to bear the loss; and it is a poor economy which
+      reduces everything to a pecuniary estimate. "Man shall not live by bread
+      alone." In God's world beauty has its place as well as utility. "Consider
+      the lilies."
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "God might have made enough&mdash;enough
+     For every want of ours,
+     For temperance, medicine, and use,
+     And yet have made no flowers."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      "He hath made everything beautiful in his time;" and means that we should
+      rejoice in His works as well as feed upon His bounty and learn from His
+      wisdom. While by no means insensible to the charm of a richly cultivated
+      district, where "the pastures are clothed with flocks, the valleys also
+      are covered over with corn," yet let us trust that the day is far distant
+      when our few remaining forests shall have disappeared before modern
+      improvements and scientific husbandry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To the lover of nature, forest scenery is beautiful at all seasons. How
+      pleasant is it, in the hot summer noon, to lie beneath the "leafy screen,"
+      through which the sunlight flickers like golden rain; to watch the
+      multitudenous life around us&mdash;the squirrel flashing from bough to
+      bough, the rabbit darting past with quick, jerky movements, the birds
+      flitting hither and thither in busy idleness, the columns of insects in
+      ceaseless, aimless gliding motion&mdash;and to listen to the mysterious
+      undertone of sound which pervades rather than disturbs the silence!
+      Beautiful, too, are the woods when autumn has touched their greenery with
+      its own variety of hue. From the old Speech House of the Forest of Dean we
+      have looked out as on a billowy, far extending sea of glory&mdash;elm,
+      oak, beech, ash, maple, all with their own peculiar tints, yet blending
+      into one harmonious chord of colour in the light of the westering sun;
+      whilst from among them the holly and the yew stood out like green islands
+      set in an ocean of gold.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little later in the year, and we tread among the rustling leaves, whilst
+      over us interlaces in intricate tracery a network of branches, twigs, and
+      sprays:&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "The ruined choirs where late the sweet birds sang."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Return a few weeks afterwards, and surely it will be felt that forest
+      scenery is never more fairy-like than when the bare boughs are feathered
+      with snowflakes, or sparkle with icicles, that flash like diamonds in the
+      wintry sunlight, or faintly tinkle overhead as they sway to and fro in the
+      icy breeze. Never is the forest more solemn than when, with a sound like
+      thunder or the raging sea, the wind tosses the giant branches in wild
+      commotion. We cannot wonder that Schiller delighted to wander alone in the
+      stormy midnight through the woods, listening to the tempest which raged
+      aloft, or that much of his grandest poetry was composed amid scenes like
+      these.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nor must we forget the aspect of the woods in early spring, when Nature is
+      just awaking from her winter's sleep. It needs a quick eye to trace the
+      delicate shades of colour which then succeed each other&mdash;the dull
+      brown first brightening into a reddish hue, as the glossy leaf-cases begin
+      to expand, then a faint hint of tender green as the pale leaves burst from
+      their enclosure one after another, tinging with colour the skeleton
+      branches which they are soon to clothe with their beautiful mantle.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Mysterious round! What skill, what force divine,
+     Deep felt, in these appear! A simple train,
+     Yet so delightful, mixed with such kind art,
+     Such beauty and beneficence combined,
+     Shade unperceived so softening into shade.
+     And all so forming an harmonious whole,
+     That, as they still succeed, they ravish still."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The New Forest claims precedence over all others, from its extent, its
+      picturesque beauty, and its historical associations. Though greatly
+      encroached upon since the time that the Conqueror "loved its red deer as
+      if he were their father," and the Red King fell beneath the arrow of Sir
+      Walter Tyrrell, it still contains long stretches of wild moorland, and
+      mighty oaks which may have been venerable in the days of the Plantagenets.
+      The red deer have entirely disappeared. About a hundred fallow-deer yet
+      remain. They are very shy, hiding themselves in the least visited recesses
+      of the Forest, and are rarely seen except during the annual hunt, which
+      takes place every spring. In 1874 a pack of bloodhounds was brought down
+      by Lord Londesborough, who owns a beautiful park near Lyndhurst. The
+      sport, however, is said not to have been very good. Numerous droves of
+      forest ponies run wild, and with the herds of swine feeding upon the
+      acorns and beech-mast give animation to the scene. Amid the forest glades
+      even pigs become picturesque.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Charming excursions may be made into the Forest from the towns on its
+      borders, Southampton, Lymington, Christchurch, or Ringwood. But he who
+      would fully appreciate its beauties must take up his quarters at
+      Lyndhurst, in the very heart of its finest scenery. From this centre,
+      walks or drives may be taken in every direction, and in almost endless
+      variety. One of these, describing a circuit of about twelve miles, past
+      the Rufus Stone and Boldrewood, claims especial mention. The road leads
+      for a short distance through a richly-wooded and highly cultivated
+      district. On a knoll to the left is a farm-house occupying the site of the
+      Keep of Malwood, where William Rufus slept the night before his death.
+      From this point vistas, locally known as "peeps," are cut through the
+      trees, commanding noble views over the Forest, and extending southwards to
+      Southampton Water, the Channel and the Isle of Wight. The soil now becomes
+      more barren, and the trees more sparse and stunted. At the bottom of a
+      steep descent stood a pyramidal stone, marking the spot where the king was
+      slain, bearing on its three sides a record of the event. This has now been
+      cased by an iron cylinder, with the original inscriptions in bold relief.
+      To the left stretches a long bare ridge of moorland, from the summit of
+      which the eye ranges over grand sweeps of fern, gorse, and heather,
+      bounded by woodlands to the verge of the horizon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0042" id="linkimage-0042"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0068m.jpg" alt="0068m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0068.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The road now passes through a succession of forest glades, over smooth
+      green turf, beneath arches of beech and oak, with a luxuriant undergrowth
+      of holly and yew. At Burley Lodge we reach some of the finest and oldest
+      timber in the Forest. Here formerly stood twelve magnificent oaks, known
+      as the "Twelve Apostles." Most of these have, disappeared, but two yet
+      remain, which for size, beauty, and venerable antiquity are perhaps
+      unequalled. A little farther on, a grove of beeches arrests the traveller
+      by the grandeur and beauty of their forms, and is a favourite
+      halting-place. Enthusiastic lovers of sylvan scenery, artists and others,
+      not infrequently encamp here for days together, screened from wind and
+      weather not only by the canvas of their tent, but by the impenetrable roof
+      of foliage overhead. Bearing to the south, along an intricate labyrinth of
+      woodpaths, through modern plantations alternated with clumps of primeval
+      forest, we reach&amp; the cultivated district, with smiling farms, stately
+      mansions, and picturesque villages, returning thus to Lyndhurst.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0043" id="linkimage-0043"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0069m.jpg" alt="0069m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0069.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Before we bid a regretful adieu to this little forest town, we must by all
+      means visit the new church. The noble fresco of the Ten Virgins by
+      Leighton which forms the altar-piece, is understood to be the munificent
+      gift of the artist. The look of sullen or of wild despair on the faces of
+      the foolish virgins as they are rejected, and the expression of sternness
+      blended with pity in that of the angel who repels them, may well awaken
+      solemn thought:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Too late! too late! ye cannot enter now!"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0044" id="linkimage-0044"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0070m.jpg" alt="0070m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0070.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The Forest of Dean, though less extensive than the New Forest, is hardly
+      less beautiful;&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "The queen of forests all that west of Severn lie."&mdash;<i>Drayton</i>.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      It occupies the high ground between the valleys of the Severn and the Wye.
+      What Lyndhurst is to the one, the Speech House is to the other. The
+      Foresters' Courts have been held here for centuries, in a large hall
+      panelled with dark oak and hung round with deer's antlers. Here the
+      "verderers," foresters, "gavellers," miners, and Crown agents meet to
+      discuss in open court their various claims in a sort of local parliament.
+      Originally the King's Lodge, it is now a comfortable inn, affording good
+      accommodation for the lovers of sylvan scenery. The deer with which the
+      forest once abounded diminished in numbers up to 1850, when they were
+      removed. But, as in the New Forest, droves of ponies and herds of swine
+      roam at large among the trees, giving animation and interest to the
+      landscape. A different feeling is aroused by the sight of furnaces and
+      coal-pits in different directions, indicative of the mineral treasures
+      hidden beneath the fair surface of this forest. Ironworks have in fact
+      existed here from very early times; the forest-trees having, as in the
+      Weald of Sussex, afforded an abundant supply of fuel, though (thanks to
+      the coal-beds beneath) without the same result in denuding the district of
+      its leafy glories.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Savernake Forest, in Wiltshire, the property of the Marquis of Ailesbury,
+      is the only English forest belonging to a subject, and is especially
+      remarkable for its avenues of trees. One, of magnificent beeches, is
+      nearly four miles in length, and is intersected at one point of its course
+      by three separate "walks" or forest vistas, placed at such angles as with
+      the avenue itself to command eight points of the compass. The effect is
+      unique and beautiful, the artificial character of the arrangement being
+      amply compensated by the exceeding luxuriance of the thick-set trees, and
+      the soft loveliness of the verdant flowery glades which they enclose. The
+      smooth bright foliage of the beech is interspersed with the darker shade
+      of the fir, while towering elms and majestic wide-spreading oaks diversify
+      the line of view in endless, beautiful variety. At one point, a clump of
+      trees will be reached&mdash;the veterans of the forest, with moss-clad
+      trunks and gnarled half-leafless branches; the chief being known as the
+      King Oak, but sometimes called the Duke's, from the Lord Protector
+      Somerset, with whom this tree was a favourite. The railway from Hungerford
+      to Marlborough skirts this forest, the southern portion of which is known
+      as Tottenham Park. An obelisk, erected on one of its highest points, in
+      1781, to commemorate the recovery of George III., forms an
+      easily-recognisable landmark, and may also guide the wanderer in the
+      forest glades, who might else be bewildered by the very uniformity of the
+      lone lines of foliage. On the whole, if this Forest of Savernake has not
+      the vast extent, or the wild natural beauty of some other forests, it has
+      all the charm that the richest luxuriance can give, while some of its
+      noblest I trees will be found away from the great avenues, on the gentle
+      slopes or in the mossy dells, which diversify the surface of this most
+      beautiful domain. Nor will the visitor in spring-time fail to be delighted
+      by the great banks of rhododendron and azalea, which at many parts add
+      colour and splendour to the scene.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among our smaller woodlands, Burnham Beeches claim special notice. They
+      are reached by a charming drive of five or six miles from Maidenhead. The
+      road leads at first through one of the most highly cultivated and fertile
+      districts in England, and then enters Dropmore Park, with its stately
+      avenues of cedar and pine, and some of the finest araucarias in Europe.
+      The Beeches occupy a knoll which rises from the plain, over which it
+      commands splendid views, Windsor Castle and the valley of the Thames being
+      conspicuous objects in the landscape. The trees are many of them of
+      immense girth; but having been pollarded&mdash;tradition says by
+      Cromwell's troopers&mdash;they do not attain a great height. They are thus
+      wanting in the feathery grace and sweep which form the characteristic
+      beauty of the beech; but, in exchange for this, the gnarled, twisted
+      branches are in the very highest degree picturesque, and to the wearied
+      Londoner few ways of spending a summer's day can be more enjoyable than a
+      ramble over the Burnham Knoll, with its turfy slopes and shaded dells, or
+      better still, a picnic with some chosen friends in the shadow of one or
+      other of these stupendous trees.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0045" id="linkimage-0045"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0072m.jpg" alt="0072m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0072.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Space will not allow us to do more than refer to the forests of Epping and
+      Hainault, Sherwood and Charnwood, Whittlebury and Delamere, with many
+      others. The names recal the memories of happy days spent beneath their
+      leafy screen, or in wandering over the wild moorlands on which they stand,
+      with grateful thoughts, too, of&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+                        "That unwearied love
+     Which planned and built, and still upholds this world,
+     So clothed with beauty for rebellious man."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0046" id="linkimage-0046"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0074m.jpg" alt="0074m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0074.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0047" id="linkimage-0047"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0075m.jpg" alt="0075m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0075.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE traveller who
+      would enter into the full charm of "Shakspere's country" is recommended to
+      start from the quaint and ancient city of Coventry, and to pursue the high
+      road to Warwick, taking Kenilworth in his way. There is scarcely a walk in
+      England more perfect in its own kind of beauty than the five miles from
+      Coventry to Kenilworth. A wide, well-kept road follows, almost in a
+      straight line, the undulations of the hills. Soon after leaving the city,
+      a broad, flower-enamelled coppice, open to the road, is reached; then the
+      hedgerows are flanked on both sides with noble elms, forming a stately
+      avenue, through which glimpses are ever and anon obtained of purple
+      wood-crested hills in the distance. Broad rolling pastures, and
+      cornfields, rich in promise, stretch away on either hand; the grassy
+      road-side and high hedge-banks, showing the deep red subsoil of the
+      sandstone, or variegated clays of the red marls, are bright with wild
+      flowers, and the air is musical with the song of birds. Travellers are
+      few; the railway scream in the distance, to the left, suggests that all
+      who are in a hurry to reach their destination have taken another route; if
+      it be holiday time, parties of young men on Coventry bicycles are sure to
+      flash past; but it is our delight to linger and enjoy. We are, as Thomas
+      Fuller says, in the "Medi-terranean" part of England; and English scenery
+      nowhere displays a more characteristic charm.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0048" id="linkimage-0048"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0076m.jpg" alt="0076m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0076.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Kenilworth old church and the castle at length are reached; the latter, a
+      stately ruin. The visitor will duly note Cæsar's Tower, the original keep,
+      with its walls, in some parts, sixteen feet thick; then the remains of the
+      magnificent banqueting hall, built by John of Gaunt, and, lastly, the
+      dilapidated towers erected by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, one part
+      of which bears the name of poor Amy Robsart. No officious cicerone is
+      likely to offer his services; a trifling gate-fee opens the place freely
+      to all, either to rest on the greensward, or to climb the battered
+      ramparts; to survey, at one view, the ancient moat, the castle garden, the
+      tilt-yard, where knights met in mimic battle; the bed of the lake, where
+      sea-fights were imitated for a monarch's sport&mdash;in short, the
+      impressive memorials of a fashion in life and act that have long since
+      yielded to nobler things. "The massy ruins," says Sir Walter Scott, "only
+      serve to show what their splendour once was, and to impress on the musing
+      visitor the transitory value of human possessions, and the happiness of
+      those who enjoy a humble lot in industrious contentment." There are other
+      lessons, too, national, as well as individual; and we turn away from old
+      Kenilworth with thankfulness that the ruins of the nineteenth century will
+      at least tell to our descendants no tales of feudal tyranny, of royal
+      murders, or of sanguinary civil strife.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0049" id="linkimage-0049"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0078m.jpg" alt="0078m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0078.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The town of Kenilworth is of considerable size, containing, at the last
+      census, more than 3,000 inhabitants. The traveller may rest here, or in a
+      quaint little hostelry close to the castle gates, not forgetting to visit
+      the ancient church&mdash;that at the other end of the town is modern, and
+      need not detain him. After due refreshment, he will probably be in the
+      humour for another five miles' walk, or drive, along a road almost equal
+      in beauty to that by which he came, to Warwick, calling at Guy's Cliff by
+      the way. He had better make up his mind, for the time at least, to believe
+      in Guy, "the Saxon giant who slew the dun cow," and, after a life of
+      doughty deeds, retired to a hermitage, here where the Avon opens into a
+      lake-like transparent pool, at the foot of the exquisitely-wooded cliff.
+      The cave of the giant's retreat may be seen; and the traveller will be
+      charmed by the fair mansion on the one side overhanging the Avon, and on
+      the other opening down a long avenue, flowery and verdant, to the high
+      road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0050" id="linkimage-0050"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0079m.jpg" alt="0079m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0079.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Warwick Castle is so frequently visited, that it needs little description.
+      The winding road, cut out of the solid rock from the lodge to the castle
+      gate, is a fitting approach to the stately fortress-palace, and well
+      prepares the visitor for what is to follow. Some will prefer to roam the
+      gardens, so far as watchful custodians permit, turning aside to the
+      solid-looking Gothic conservatory to see the great Warwick vase, brought
+      from fair Tivoli; others will follow the courteous housekeeper down the
+      long suite of castle halls, poting the glorious views from the deep
+      embayed windows, duly admiring the bed in which Queen Anne once slept,
+      with the portrait of her majesty, plump and rubicund, on the opposite
+      wall. The logs heaped up, as logs have been for centuries, in readiness
+      for the great hall-fire, carry the mind back to olden fashions; the inlaid
+      table of precious stones, said to be "worth" ten thousand pounds, excites
+      a languid curiosity; the helmet of Oliver Cromwell, an authentic relic,
+      suggests many a thought of the great brain which it once enclosed; and,
+      while other items in the antique show pass as phantasmagoria before the
+      bewildered attention, there are some portraits on the walls, to have seen
+      which is a lasting pleasure of memory. It is a happy thing that these were
+      spared by the fire of 1871; justly counted as a national calamity rather
+      than a family misfortune. The traces of the conflagration are now almost
+      wholly removed, although some priceless treasures have been irrecoverably
+      lost.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0051" id="linkimage-0051"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0080m.jpg" alt="0080m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0080.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      At the lodge, by the castle gate, there is a museum of curiosities, which
+      will interest the believers in the great "Guy," and will amuse others. For
+      there is the giant's "porridge pot" of bell-metal, vast in circumference
+      and resonant in ring; with his staff, his horse's armour, and, to crown
+      all, some ribs of the "dun cow" herself! What if, in sober truth, some
+      last lingerer of a species now extinct roamed over the great forest of
+      Arden, the terror of the country, until Sir Guy wrought deliverance?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Warwick itself need not detain us long; the church, however, demands a
+      visit; and the Beauchamp Chapel, with its monuments, is one of the finest
+      in England. But the pedestrian will probably elect to spend the night at
+      Leamington, close by, before continuing his pilgrimage. A visit to the
+      ever beautiful Jephson Gardens, with their wealth of evergreen oaks, soft
+      turfy lawn, and broad fair water, will afford him a pleasant evening, and
+      the next morning will see him <i>en route</i> for Stratford-upon-Avon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0052" id="linkimage-0052"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8081.jpg" alt="8081 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8081.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Again let him take the road, drinking in the influence of the pleasant
+      Warwickshire scene; quiet, rural loveliness varying with every mile, and
+      glimpses of the silver Avon at intervals enhancing the charm. A slight
+      détour will lead to Hampton Lucy, and Charlecote House and Park, memorable
+      for the exploits of Shakspere's youth, and for the worshipful dignity of
+      Sir Thomas Lucy, the presumed original of Mr. Justice Shallow. The park
+      having been skirted, or crossed, the tourist proceeds three or four miles
+      further by a good road, and enters Stratford-upon-Avon by a stone bridge
+      of great length, crossing the Avon and adjacent low-lying meadows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bridge, which dates from the reign of Henry VII., has been widened on
+      an ingenious plan, by a footpath, supported on a kind of iron balcony.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is easy, however, to imagine its exact appearance when Shakspere paced
+      its narrow roadway, or hung over its parapet to watch the skimming swallow
+      or the darting trout and minnow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This Warwickshire town has been so often and so exhaustively described,
+      that we may well forbear from any minute detail. Every visitor knows, with
+      tolerable accuracy, what he has to expect. He finds, as he had
+      anticipated, a quiet country town, very much like other towns; neither
+      obtrusively modern, nor quaintly antique&mdash;in one word, common-place,
+      save for the all-pervading presence and memory of Shakspere. The house in
+      Henley Street, where he is said to have been born, will be first visited,
+      of course; then the tourist will walk along the High Street, noting the
+      Shakspere memorials in the shop-windows, looking up as he passes to the
+      fine statue of the poet, placed by Garrick in front of the Town Hall.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the site of New Place, now an open, well-kept garden, with here and
+      there some of the shattered foundations of the poet's house, protected by
+      wire-work, on the greensward, the visitor will add his tribute of wonder,
+      if not of contempt, to the twin memories of Sir Hugh Clopton, who pulled
+      down Shakspere's house in one generation, and of the Rev. Francis
+      Gastrell, who cut down Shakspere's mulberry-tree in another. Just opposite
+      are the guild chapel, the guild hall, with the grammar-school where the
+      poet, no doubt, received his education; and, after some further walking,
+      the extremity of the town will be reached, where a little gate opens to a
+      charming avenue of over-arching lime-trees, leading to the church.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0053" id="linkimage-0053"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0082m.jpg" alt="0082m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0082.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Before he enters, let him pass round to the other side, where the
+      churchyard gently slopes to the Avon, and drink in the tranquillity and
+      beauty of the rustic scene. Then, after gaining admission, he will go
+      straight to the chancel and gaze upon those which, after all, are the only
+      memorials of the poet which possess a really satisfying value, the
+      monument and the tomb.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      As all the world knows, the tomb is a dark slab, lying in the chancel, the
+      inscription turned to the east. No name is given, only the lines here
+      copied from a photograph:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Good Frend for Jesvs sake forbeare
+     To DIGG THE DVST ENCLOASED HEAEE:
+     Blest be ye man v'spares thes stones,
+     And cvrst be he yl moves mv bones.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0055" id="linkimage-0055"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0085m.jpg" alt="0085m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0085.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      To suppose these lines written by Shakspere himself, seems absurd. They
+      are not, indeed, the only doggrel unjustly fathered upon him. The
+      prostrate figure on a tomb in the east wall of the chancel, representing
+      Shakspere's contemporary and intimate, John-a-Combe, suggests another
+      stanza, even inferior in taste and diction. But we have no room now for
+      such thoughts. Above us, on the left, is the monument of the poet,
+      coloured; not content with "improving" the plays, caused the bust also to
+      be improved by a coating of white paint, how the barbarism was removed in
+      1861, and the statue restored, is a tale often told. The effigy certainly
+      existed within seven years of Shakspere's death, so that, in all
+      probability, we have a faithful representation of the poet as his
+      contemporaries knew him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0056" id="linkimage-0056"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9086.jpg" alt="9086 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9086.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The inscription is clumsy enough, but proves that the poet's greatness was
+      not, as sometimes alleged, unrecognised in his own generation. The epitaph
+      on Mistress Susanna Hall, a higher note. Thus it began
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Witty above her sex&mdash;but that's not all&mdash;
+     Wise to salvation, was good Mistress Hall.
+     Something of Shakspere was in that; but this
+     Wholly of Him with Whom she's now in bliss."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      It is to be regretted that this inscription has been effaced, to make room
+      for the epitaph of some obscure descendant. That to Shakespere's widow,
+      the wife of his youth, Anne Hathaway however remains placed over Her grave
+      by her son; there is something in it pathetically and nobly Christian. It
+      is in Latin, and may be rendered freely: "My mother: thou gavest me milk
+      and life: alas, for me, that I can but repay thee with a sepulchre! Would
+      that some good angel might roll the stone away, and thy form come forth in
+      the Saviour's likeness! But my prayers avail not. Come quickly, O Christ!
+      then shall my mother, though enclosed in the tomb, arise and mount to
+      heaven!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before leaving the church we may note some monuments worth attention, at
+      least in any other place; as well as a stained glass window, not yet
+      complete, but intended to illustrate from Scripture Shakspere's Seven Ages
+      of Man. Moses the infant, Jacob the lover, Deborah the Judge, and one or
+      two other representations are finished, but the observer feels that the
+      types of character are not Shakspere's.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The day's explorations are not yet over. The epitaph on Anne Hathaway's
+      tomb, if nothing else, has quickened our desire to know something more of
+      her surroundings in those days when Shakspere won and wooed her in her
+      rustic home. Retracing our steps through the town, we are directed to a
+      field-path bearing straight for Shottery, a village but a mile distant. It
+      is not difficult to picture the youthful lover, perhaps, out here in the
+      fair open country, among the wild flowers which line the walk, and which
+      he has so well described, for there are few traditions of
+      Stratford-upon-Avon better authenticated than that which represents this
+      as Shakspere's walk in the clays when he "went courting." The village is a
+      straggling one, with a look of comfort about its farmsteads and cottages;
+      and, at the furthest extremity from Stratford, in a pleasant dell,
+      opposite a willow-shaded stream, we find the cottage, not much altered, it
+      may be, in externals, since the poet, then a lad of eighteen, there found
+      his bride. The capacious chimney-corner, where no doubt the lovers sat, is
+      genuine; and other antique relics, from a carved bed to an old Bible,
+      carry the mind back, at least, to the era of the poet; while the garden
+      and orchard, with the well of pure spring water, must be much as Shakspere
+      saw them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      And now having returned to our comfortable hotel&mdash;where almost every
+      room, by the way, is named after one of the dramas, ours being "All's well
+      that ends well"&mdash;what was the net result of the visit in regard to
+      the personality and history of the great poet? It may seem a strange thing
+      to confess, but the effect of the whole was to put Shakspere himself
+      further from us, and to deepen the mystery which every student of his life
+      and works finds so perplexing. For, save the monument and the tomb, there
+      was absolutely nothing to tell of the poet's life; no scrap of his
+      writing, no book known to have been his, no original authentic record of
+      his words and deeds, no contemporary portrait, no object, whether article
+      of furniture, pen, inkstand, or other implement of daily use, associated
+      with his name. Strange that a generation, which, as we have seen, so
+      honoured his genius and character, should not have preserved the poorest
+      or smallest memorial of his life among them! True, there is an old,
+      worm-eaten desk in the birth-place, at which he may have, sat in the
+      grammar-school; in a room in the town above the seed-shop there is a rude
+      piece of carving, representing David and Goliath, which once ornamented a
+      room of the house in Henley Street, and bears an inscription, "said to
+      have been composed by Shakspere," A.D. 1606. Let our readers judge:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Goliath comes with sword and spear,
+     And David with his sling:
+     Although Goliath rage and swear
+     Down David doth him bring."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      For the rest, the relics are evidently imported: an ancient bedstead,
+      old-fashioned chairs, and the like; interesting in their way, but with
+      nothing to tell us of the poet. He remains to the most zealous
+      relic-hunter as great a mystery as Homer himself. Or if in anything here
+      we see the poet, it is in those scenes of external nature which he has so
+      vividly pictured. We find him among the flowers: beside the
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+         "bank whereon the wild thyme blows,
+     Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows,
+     Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,
+     With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0057" id="linkimage-0057"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0089m.jpg" alt="0089m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0089.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      By a happy ingenuity the garden of the house in Henley Street, now
+      prettily and daintily kept, has been planted to a great extent with
+      Shakspere's flowers; "pansies for thoughts," "rosemary for remembrance,"
+      with "columbines," the "blue-veined violets," the wild thyme, woodbine,
+      musk-rose, and many more. His works are his true monument; and of these
+      there is, in the same house, a very large and noble collection, with a
+      whole library of literature bearing upon them, gathered with admirable
+      care. Yet how few autobiographical details do the volumes contain! How
+      hopeless the task of constructing, even from the sonnets, a connected
+      picture of his life and career! And of the half-dozen anecdotes which have
+      in one way or other descended to us of his words and ways, who can say
+      that any detail is true?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0058" id="linkimage-0058"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9090.jpg" alt="9090 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9090.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      It is, perhaps, from the portraits, after all, that we may gain the most
+      trustworthy impression of the poet's individuality. That on the tomb is
+      for obvious reasons the most valuable. There it has been, in the sight of
+      all men, from the very days of Shakspere. The eyes of his widow and of
+      their children must often have rested upon it; and there can be no doubt
+      that it presents the true aspect of the man. The engravings of the bust,
+      and even the photographs, seem to us to exaggerate the calm, serene
+      expression of the countenance. Partly, it may be, from the effect of the
+      colouring on the full and shapely cheeks, there is an air almost of
+      joviality about the face. It is quite as easy to recognise the
+      Warwickshire squire of New Place, as to feel the presence of the poet of
+      all time. There is, in the Henley Street house, a portrait of
+      extraordinary history; lately discovered. The antiquity of this portrait
+      seems indubitable; but the face seems a copy, and, so far as we could
+      judge without seeing the two side by side, of that on the monument. For
+      the we naturally associate with Shakspere, we must go rather to the
+      "Chandos portrait," now in the National Portrait Gallery, or to the
+      terra-cotta bust, disinterred in 1845, from the site of the old theatre in
+      Lincoln's Inn Fields, and presented by the Duke of Devonshire to the
+      Garrick Club. In a somewhat rough fashion, the Droeshout portrait,
+      prefixed to the first folio edition of the plays, in 1623, gives a similar
+      impression of power; and Ben Jonson, who knew Shakspere personally,
+      testifies strongly to its correctness:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "This figure that thou here seest put,
+     It was for gentle Shakspere cut;
+     Wherein the graver had a strife
+     With Nature, to outdo the Life."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      But most of all is the greatness of Shakspere brought home to us by the
+      simple record of the names of those who, from all quarters of the world,
+      have come to this little Warwickshire town, to do homage to his memory. In
+      all the world there is no shrine of pilgrimage like this, not only in the
+      number of the visitants, but in their wonderful variety in character,
+      temperament, and belief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0059" id="linkimage-0059"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9091.jpg" alt="9091 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9091.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The power of the spell shows the magician. The fading pencilled
+      inscriptions which cover the walls of the chamber in Henley Street; the
+      pages of the autograph books; the words in which visitors have recorded
+      their impressions, attest the strange attractiveness and power of this one
+      genius. Perhaps the most interesting of the autograph books is that which
+      was removed from the house in Henley Street many years ago, and is now to
+      be seen in the room over the seed-room, to which we have referred already.
+      It seems to have been purchased and presented by an American gentleman,
+      Mr. T. H. Perkins, of Boston, in 1812; and its pages contain the
+      autographs of Sir Walter Scott, Lord Byron, Miss Edge-a Baillie, James
+      Professors Sedgarence," "Arthur, Duke of Wellington," with a host beside.
+      A thoughtful hour may well be spent in turning the well-worn pages, and in
+      meditating on "the vanity and glory of literature."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For there was one point in which even Shakspere failed, and the admiring
+      reverence with which we join the throng of pilgrims to the shrine never
+      passes into <i>worship</i>. We mean, of course, such "worship" as a merely
+      human being may supposably claim; and, in view of the highest
+      possibilities of our nature, we mark in Shakspere a certain limitation on
+      the <i>heavenward</i> side of his genius. The point at which intellectual
+      sympathy and admiring affection pass into adoration, is the point at which
+      we are raised <i>beyond ourselves</i>, and made conscious of the infinite.
+      Never will our moral nature consent to unite with our reason and our heart
+      in yielding its deepest worth, reverence, until it is uplifted into that
+      sphere in which we can only walk by faith, and from which we can look down
+      upon earthly things dwarfed and humbled by the comparison with the
+      illimitable beyond.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now Shakspere's genius belongs essentially to the lower sphere. On earth
+      he is the master. Every phase of nature, every subtilty of the intellect,
+      every winding of the heart, is familiar to him. To use the comparison,
+      often repeated because always felt to be so true, his wonderful mind was
+      the mirror of all earthly shapes and various human energies. His own
+      idiosyncracy never appears; the mirror is absolutely colourless and true.
+      His genius is universal: in reading him we are but surveying the face of
+      nature. To many a subtle criticism, the answer has been given, Shakspere
+      surely never meant this! The reply may be, perhaps not, but nature meant
+      it; and, therefore, we have a right to find it there! Such is the highest
+      achievement of <i>literature</i>, whose business it is to reflect the
+      facts of the world, of society, of the human heart&mdash;plentifully to
+      declare the thing as it is, and compendiously to reduce this round world
+      into the microcosm of a book. Here is Shakspere's transcendent power, and
+      the secret of his supremacy among writers. He is simply the greatest
+      literary man that ever lived. The transparency of the mirror, to return to
+      the illustration, is maintained, not only by the absence of intrusive
+      individuality, but by his perfect mastery over the instrument of
+      expression. It is worth while to read his dramas over again, as a study of
+      language alone. No writer has ever approached Shakspere in the precision,
+      picturesqueness, and the finished, yet seemingly careless, beauty of his
+      diction. His prose is even more marvellous than his poetry. In the sense
+      in which we use the word "classic," his works may truly be called the
+      foremost classic of the world.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      What, then, is the defect which will for ever prevent Shakspere from
+      receiving the entire homage of the heart of man? In a sentence, the mirror
+      is turned towards earth alone, and in its very completeness hides heaven
+      from the view. "It would be impossible," says a contemporary writer, "to
+      find a more remarkable example of a genius wide as the world, yet <i>not</i>
+      in any sense <i>above</i> the world, than our great English poet's." And
+      again, "it would be almost impossible to find any great Christian poet
+      whose type of imagination is so entirely and singularly <i>contrasted</i>
+      with that of the Bible, or in whom that peculiar faculty which, for want
+      of a better term, we are forced to call the thirst <i>for the supernatural</i>,
+      is more remarkably absent."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This statement we accept, in full remembrance of the morals manifold, the
+      theological references, and Scriptural parallels, which are scattered
+      through the poet's writings. Bishop Wordsworth, of St. Andrew's, and
+      others, have spent much labour, not altogether unprofitably, in showing
+      that Shakspere knew his Bible: while, oddly enough, among the passages
+      expunged by the estimable Bowdler, the Biblical references occupy a
+      considerable place, as though it had been profanity to introduce them in
+      such a connexion! The most is made of Shakspere's religiousness by the
+      present Archbishop of Dublin, in a sermon preached at Stratford-upon-Avon
+      at the Shakspere Tercentenary, in 1864.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He knew the deep corruption of our fallen nature, the desperate wickedness
+      of the heart of man; else he would never have put into the mouth of a
+      prince of stainless life such a confession as this: 'I am myself
+      indifferently honest: but yet I could accuse one of such things that it
+      were better my mother had not borne me.... with more offences at my beck
+      than I have thoughts to put them in, imagination to give them shape, or
+      time to act them in.' He has set forth the scheme of our redemption in
+      words as lovely as have ever flowed from the lips of uninspired man:&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'Why, all the souls that live were forfeit once,
+     And He that might the vantage best  have Look,
+     Found out the remedy.'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      He has put home to the holiest here their need of an infinite forgiveness
+      from Him who requires truth in the inward parts:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'How would you be,
+     If He, which is the top of judgment, should
+     But judge you as you are?'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      "He was one who was well aware what a stewardship was his own in those
+      marvellous gifts which had been entrusted to him, for he has himself told
+      us:&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'Heaven does with us as we with torches do,
+     Not light them for themselves: for if our virtues
+     Did not go forth of us,'twere all alike
+     As if we had them not.'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      And again he has told us that
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'Spirits are not finely touched
+     But for fine issues:'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Assuredly not ignorant how finely his own had been touched, and what would
+      be demanded from him in return. He was one who certainly knew that there
+      is none so wise that he can 'circumvent God;' and that for a man, whether
+      he be called early or late,
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'Ripeness is all.'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Who shall persuade us that he abode outside of that holy temple of our
+      faith, whereof he has uttered such glorious things&mdash;admiring its
+      beauty, but not himself entering to worship there?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To the same effect, we may quote the preliminary sentence of Shakspere's
+      will: "I commend my soul into the hands of God, my Creator, hoping, and
+      assuredly believing, through the only merits of Jesus Christ, my Saviour,
+      to be made partaker of life everlasting." With such a master of words,
+      this avowal would be no mere formality. During Shakspere's last residence
+      at Stratford, moreover, the town was under strong religious influences.
+      Many a "great man in Israel," in fraternal visits to the Rev. Richard
+      Byfield, the vicar, is said to have been hospitably entertained at New
+      Place; and memorable evenings must have been spent in converse on the
+      highest themes. In addition to all this, the following sonnet furnishes an
+      interesting proof that the heart of Shakspere, at an earlier period, had
+      not been unsusceptible to religious sentiments and aspirations:&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Poor soul, the centre of my sinful earth,
+     Fooled by those rebel powers that thee array,
+     Why dost thou pine within, and suffer dearth,
+     Painting thy outward walls so costly gay?
+     Why so large cost, having so short a lease,
+     Dost thou upon thy fading mansion spend?
+     Shall worms, inheritors of thine excess,
+     Eat up thy charge? Is this thy body's end?
+     Then, soul, live thou upon thy body's loss,
+     And let that pine to aggravate thy store;
+     Buy terms divine in selling hours of dross;
+     Within be fed, without be rich no more:
+     So shalt thou feed on death, that feeds on men,
+     And, death once dead, there's no more dying then."
+     &mdash;<i>Sonnet</i>  146.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      All that such words suggest we gladly admit among the probabilities of
+      Shakspere's unknown life. But in his dramas themselves we find no assured
+      grasp of the highest spiritual truth, nothing to show that such truth
+      controlled his views of life with imperial sway; little or nothing to
+      uplift the reader from the play of human passions and the entanglement of
+      human interests to the higher realms of Faith. It is the same Shakspere
+      who reveals the depths of human corruption, and the nobleness of human
+      excellence. But in portraying the latter, he stops short, and fails
+      exactly where the higher light of faith would have enabled him to complete
+      the delineation. His best and greatest characters are a law unto
+      themselves: his men are passionate and strong; his women are beautiful,
+      with a loveliness that scarcely ever reminds us of heaven: he has neither
+      "raised the mortal to the skies," nor "brought the angel down."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We turn, then, from Stratford-upon-Avon, feeling, as we have said, more
+      deeply than ever the mystery that overhangs the career of the man,
+      admiring, if possible, more heartily than ever the genius of the poet, and
+      acknowledging, not without mournfulness, how much greater Shakspere might
+      have been. For there was an inspiration within his reach that would have
+      made him chief among the witnesses of God to men; and his magnificent
+      endowments would then have been the richest offering ever placed by human
+      hand upon that Altar which "sanctifieth both the giver and the gift."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE COUNTRY OF BUNYAN AND COWPER.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0060" id="linkimage-0060"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0096m.jpg" alt="0096m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0096.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0061" id="linkimage-0061"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0097m.jpg" alt="0097m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0097.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">S</span>OME of the most
+      characteristic excursions through the gently undulating rural scenery
+      which distinguishes so large a portion of the south midland district of
+      England may be made along the towing-paths of the canals. The notion may
+      appear unromantic; the pathway is artificial, yet it has now become
+      rusticated and fringed with various verdure; some of the associations of
+      the canal are anything but attractive&mdash;but upon the whole the charm
+      is great. A wide, level path, driven straight across smiling valleys and
+      by the side of hills, here and there skirting a fair park, and
+      occasionally bringing some broad open landscape into sudden view, with the
+      gleam and coolness of still waters ever at the traveller's side, affords
+      him a succession of pictures which perhaps the "strong climber of the
+      mountain's side" may disdain, but which to many will be all the more
+      delightful, because they can be enjoyed with no more fatigue than that of
+      a leisurely, health-giving stroll.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was by such a walk as this through some of the pleasantest parts of
+      Hertfordshire that we first made our way to Berkhampstead&mdash;the
+      birthplace of William Cowper, turning from the canal bank to the embowered
+      fragments of the castle, and through the quiet little town to the "public
+      way,"&mdash;the pretty rural bye-road where the "gardener Robin" drew his
+      little master to school:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Delighted with the bauble coach, and wrapped
+     In scarlet mantle warm, and velvet capped,"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      while the fond mother watched her darling from the "nursery window," the
+      memory of which one pathetic poem has made immortal.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a well-known sentence, Lord Macaulay affirms in reference to the
+      seventeenth century, "We are not afraid to say, that though there were
+      many clever men in England during the latter half of that century, there
+      were only two minds which possessed the imaginative faculty in a very
+      eminent degree. One of these minds produced the <i>Paradise Lost</i>; the
+      other, the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>." Similarly, with regard to the
+      brilliant literary period which began towards the close of the eighteenth
+      century, "we are not afraid to say," that although there were many poets
+      in England of no mean order, there were but two to whom it was given to
+      view nature simply and sincerely, so as adequately to express "the delight
+      of man in the works of God." One of these poets produced the <i>Task</i>,
+      the other the <i>Exclusion</i>.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0062" id="linkimage-0062"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0098m.jpg" alt="0098m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0098.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      When Macaulay wrote, the place of Bunyan in literature was still held a
+      little doubtful; the place of Cowper among poets is not wholly
+      unquestioned now. Some are impatient of his simplicity, others scorn his
+      piety, many cannot escape, as they read, from the shadow of the darkness
+      in which he wrote. But we cannot doubt that, when the coming reaction from
+      feverishness and heathenism in poetry shall have set in, the name of
+      Cowper will win increasing honour; men will search for themselves into the
+      source of those bright phrases, happy allusions, "jewels five words long,
+      that on the stretched forefinger of all time sparkle for ever," for which
+      the world is often unconsciously indebted to his poems; while his
+      incomparable letters will remain as the finest and most brilliant
+      specimens of an art which penny-postage, telegrams, and post-cards have
+      rendered almost extinct in England.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      No one at any rate will wonder now that we should turn awhile from more
+      outwardly striking or enchanting scenes to the ground made classic and
+      sacred to the English Christian by the memories of Bunyan and Cowper. We
+      may associate their names, not only from their brotherhood in faith and
+      teaching, but from the coincidence which identifies their respective homes
+      with one and the same river, and blends their memories with the fair still
+      landscapes through which it steals.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0063" id="linkimage-0063"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0099m.jpg" alt="0099m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0099.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The Ouse, most meandering of English streams, waters a country almost
+      perfectly level throughout, though here and there fringed by the
+      undulations of the receding Chilterns;&mdash;with a picturesqueness
+      derived from rich meadows, broad pastures with flowery hedgerows, and tall
+      stately trees; while in many places the still river expands into a
+      miniature lake, with water lilies floating upon its bosom. Among scenes
+      like these the great dreamer passed his youth, in his village home at
+      Elstow; often visiting the neighbouring town of Bedford, where we may
+      picture him as leaning in many a musing fit over the old Ouse Bridge, on
+      which the town prison then stood. How little, did John Bunyan then think
+      what those prison walls would become to him and to the world! The bridge
+      is gone, the town has become a thriving modern bustling place; only the
+      river remains, and the country walk to Elstow is little changed. There is
+      the cottage which tradition identifies with Bunyan: with the church and
+      the belfry, so memorable in the record of his experiences, the village
+      green on which in his thoughtless youth he used to play at "tip-cat:"
+      there is nothing more to see, but it is impossible to pace through those
+      homely ways without remembering how once the place was luminous to his
+      awe-stricken spirit with "the light that never was on sea or shore," and
+      the landscape on which his inward eye was fixed was that which was closed
+      in by the great white throne.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0064" id="linkimage-0064"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9100.jpg" alt="9100 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9100.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      It is remarkable that there is in Bunyan's writings so little of local
+      colouring. His fields, hills and valleys are not of earth. The "wilderness
+      of this world" through which he wandered was something quite apart from
+      the Bedfordshire flats, although indeed "the den" on which he lighted is
+      but too truthful a representation of the prison on the old Ouse Bridge.
+      Even where familiar scenes may have supplied the groundwork of the
+      picture, incidental touches show that his soul was beyond them. His
+      hillsides are covered with "vineyards;" the meadows by the riverside are
+      fair with "lilies;" the fruits in the orchard have mystic healing virtue.
+      The scenery of Palestine rather than of Bedfordshire is present to his
+      view, and his well-loved Bible has contributed as much to his descriptions
+      as any reminiscences of his excursions around his native place. *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * It has recently been argued, with some plausibility, that
+     Bunyan may have derived some of his pictures of scenery from
+     his preaching excursions to the Surrey hills and the Sussex
+     Weald (see pp. 33-35), where he would often cross the track
+     of "the Canterbury pilgrims." "It is said that he frequently
+     selected the hilly districts of South Surrey as his hiding-
+     place; two houses, one on Quarry Hill, Guildford, and the
+     other known as Horn Hatch, on Shalford Common, being pointed
+     out as among those he occupied.".... "The struggles of the
+     pedestrian through the Shalford swamp might have given
+     Bunyan the original idea of the <i>Slough of Despond</i>; the
+     Surrey Hills he loved so well might be called the
+     <i>Delectable Mountains</i>; St. Martha's Hill would answer
+     perfectly his description of the <i>Hill Difficulty</i>; the Vale
+     of Albury, amid the picturesque scenery of which he passed
+     so many days of true humiliation, might be considered the
+     <i>Valley of Humiliation</i>; and lastly, the name <i>Doubting
+     Castle</i> actually exists to this day, near the Pilgrims' Way,
+     being approached, as its namesake was supposed lo be, by a
+     path near Box Hill. It is right, however, to state that the
+     antiquity of the last name quoted is not verified."&mdash;Notes
+     on the Pilgrims' Way in West Surrey; by Captain E. Renouard
+     James, R.E. Stanford, 1871.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      But it was after all in no earthly walks or haunts of men that he found
+      the prototypes of his immortal pictures. They are idealised experiences,
+      and from the Wicket gate to the Land of Beulah they all represent what he
+      had seen and felt only in his soul.* No doubt the people are in many cases
+      less abstract. A very remarkable edition of the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>,
+      published some years ago by an artist of rare promise, since deceased,
+      portrayed the personages of the allegory in the very guise in which Bunyan
+      must often have met their originals up and down in Bedfordshire. Such
+      faces may be seen to-day. We ourselves thought we saw Mr. Honesty, in a
+      brown coat, looking at some bullocks in the Bedford market-place.
+      Ignorance tried to entice us into a theological discussion at the little
+      country-side inn where we rested for the night: the next morning, as we
+      passed along, Mercy was knitting at a farmhouse door, while young Mr.
+      Brisk, driving by in his gig, made her an elaborate bow, of which we were
+      glad to see she took the slightest possible notice.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * The impression made upon a passing traveller through
+     Bunyan's Country is well expressed in some verses entitled
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Bedford is now at least rich in memorials of its illustrious citizen and
+      prisoner for conscience' sake. The Bunyan Statue, presented by the Duke of
+      Bedford, was erected in 1874, and is one of the noblest and most
+      characteristic out-of-door monuments in England. It has indeed been
+      suggested that Bunyan might more appropriately have been represented in
+      the attitude of writing than in that of preaching; but it should be
+      remembered that the latter was the work he chose and loved, and that his
+      greatest works were penned during the period of enforced silence. It is
+      therefore with a fine appropriateness that he is represented as standing,
+      as if in the presence of some vast congregation, the Bible in his hand,
+      his eyes uplifted to heaven, while upon the pedestal are carved his own
+      words, expressive of his own highest ideal.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+            "THROUGH BEDFORDSHIRE BY RAIL.
+
+  "Far behind we leave the clangour of the smoky northern town;
+  Now' we hurry through a country all brown-green and sweet grey-brown:
+  Landscapes gently undulating where light shadows softly pass,
+  Quiet rivers silent flowing through the rarely-trodden grass.
+
+  Here and there a few sheep grazing 'neath the hedgerow poplars tall.
+  Here and there a brown-thatched homestead or a rustic cottage small;
+  As we rush on road or iron through the fields on either hand,
+  In the autumn twilight gravely smiles John Bunyan's land.
+
+  More than all the fells and mountains we have passed upon our way,
+  More than e'en that giant city we shall greet ere close of day,
+  Touches us the tender beauty, soft, harmonious, simple, quaint,
+  Of these fields and winding bye-lanes where yet linger, sweet and faint,
+  Echoes of long-vanished ages, rustic homes one might have seen
+  In the old days when John Bunyan played at cat on Elstow Green,
+  Meadows still as when he wandered seeking God; while on each hand,
+  Gravely smiling in the twilight, lay John Bunyan's land.
+
+  Tender as the closing music of the Mighty Dreamer's lay,
+  Lies the country gently round us, all brown-green and soft brown-grey.
+  Tender are our thoughts towards it, as we ponder o'er the book
+  That has travelled through the wide world from this homely, rural nook.
+
+  Tenderly we name John Bunyan, martyr, poet, hero, saint,
+  Faithful pastor, strong and loving, like his Bedford, simple, quaint.
+  Ah! the happy tears half blind us as we gaze on either hand
+  O'er the gravely smiling beauty of John Bunyan's land."&mdash;Lizzie Aldridge.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0065" id="linkimage-0065"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0102m.jpg" alt="0102m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0102.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      No visitor to Bedford will neglect the rapidly accumulating Bunyan Museum,
+      comprising not only some simple relics of his lifetime, as his staff, jug,
+      and the like, with books bearing his autograph&mdash;his priceless Bible
+      and Foxes Martyrs&mdash;but the various editions of his works, and in
+      particular a collection of the illustrations of the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>,
+      from the first rude designs to the latest products of artistic skill.
+      These are stored with reverent care, in connexion with the place of
+      worship occupied by the Christian Church to which he ministered, and now
+      known as Bunyan Meeting. To this edifice, likewise, a pair of massive
+      bronze gates have been contributed by the Duke of Bedford, with panels
+      illustrative of scenes from the allegory.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0066" id="linkimage-0066"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0104m.jpg" alt="0104m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0104.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Altogether, if we have found in the neighbourhood of Bedford no Delectable
+      Mountains, nor Valley of Humiliation, nor Land of Beulah, we have at least
+      seen much pleasant English scenery, a fertile, well-cultivated country,
+      and in the very absence of more outwardly exciting prospects, have had the
+      more "leisure of thought" to dwell in the ideal world which Bunyan has
+      made as familiar to us as our own home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0067" id="linkimage-0067"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8105.jpg" alt="8105 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8105.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      From Bedford to Olney the distance by rail is between ten and eleven
+      miles; by "the sinuous Ouse" probably between thirty and forty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Few travellers, therefore, will care to ascend by the river banks, and the
+      frequent shallows preclude the thought of a boating excursion, which
+      otherwise would by its leisurely length be some preparation for our
+      exchange of the associations of the seventeenth century for those of the
+      eighteenth. One hundred and three years separated the birthday of Bunyan
+      from that of Cowper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The interval marks the greatest advance that had ever been made in the
+      history of English thought and freedom. But in the essentials of faith and
+      teaching the two men were one; nor in some of their experiences were they
+      very dissimilar. Both were sensitive, conscientious, and often in the
+      midst of their holiest longings after God were most terror-stricken by
+      thoughts of the wrath to come. Some pages of Bunyan's Autobiography may
+      compare in their passionate anxiety with the annals of Cowper's despair.
+      The great dreamer soon escaped from Doubting Castle to the Delectable
+      Mountains; but for the poet, the dungeon bars remained unloosed until the
+      final summons came to the everlasting hills. *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * "From the moment of Cowper's death, till the coffin was
+     closed," writes his friend and relative Mr. Johnson, "the
+     expression with which his countenance had settled was that
+     of calmness and composure, mingled, as it were, with <i>holy
+     surprise."&mdash;Southey's Life.</i>
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The sensitiveness of Cowper to external influences was so great, as to
+      raise the doubt whether other scenes and a different atmosphere might not
+      have prevented many of his sorrows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0068" id="linkimage-0068"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9106.jpg" alt="9106 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9106.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      On the death of his father, when the poet had reached the age of
+      twenty-five, he touchingly and expressively tells us that it had never
+      till then occurred to him "that a parson has no fee-simple in the house
+      and glebe he occupies. There was," he says, "neither tree, nor gate, nor
+      stile in all that country to which I did not feel a relation, and the
+      house itself I preferred to a palace." To Huntingdon, where he first made
+      acquaintance with the Ouse, and became an inmate with the Unwins, he clung
+      very lovingly, although he does not rate the charms of the neighbourhood
+      very highly. "My lot is cast in a country where we have neither woods nor
+      commons nor pleasant prospects: all flat and insipid; in the summer
+      adorned only winter covered with a flood." But it was at Olney that Cowper
+      found such scenery as he could appreciate and love. "He does not," in the
+      words of Sir James Mackintosh, "describe the most beautiful scenes in
+      nature; he discovers what is most beautiful in ordinary scenes."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0069" id="linkimage-0069"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8106.jpg" alt="8106 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8106.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      In fact, Cowper saw very few beautiful scenes, but his poetical eye, and
+      his moral heart, detected beauty in the sandy flats of Buckinghamshire."
+      The walk, especially, from the quiet little town to the village of Weston
+      Underwood, he has made classic among English scenes by the description in
+      the first book of the <i>Task</i>.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Leaving Olney, where, in truth, there is not much to detain us, save the
+      poet's home&mdash;the same in outward aspect, at least, as during the
+      twenty years spent by him within its walls,&mdash;and the summer-house in
+      the garden where he sat and wrote, while Mrs. Unwin knitted, and Puss,
+      Tiny, and Bess sported upon the grass&mdash;we may climb the little
+      eminence above the river, and with an admiration like that of the poet
+      ninety years ago, "dwell upon the scene." "Here is the "distant plough
+      slow moving," and
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0070" id="linkimage-0070"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0107m.jpg" alt="0107m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0107.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Here Ouse, slow winding through a level plain
+     Of spacious meads, with cattle sprinkled o'er,
+     Conducts the eye along his sinuous course Delighted.
+
+     There, fast rooted in their bank,
+     Stand, never overlooked, our favourite elms.
+     That screen the herdsman's solitary hut;
+     While far beyond, and overthwart the stream,
+     That, as with molten glass, inlays the vale,
+     The sloping land recedes into the clouds;
+     Displaying on its varied side the grace
+     Of hedgerow beauties numberless, square tower,
+     Tall spire, from which the sound of cheerful bells
+     Just undulates upon the listening ear;
+     Groves,  heathes and smoking villages remote."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      We are now at the upper corner of the Throckmorton Park. Pursuing our way,
+      we listen to the music of "nature inanimate," of rippling brook or sighing
+      wind, and of "nature animate," of "ten thousand warblers" that so soothed
+      the poet's soul. A dip in the walk from where the elms enclose the upper
+      park, and the chestnuts spread their shade, brings us into a grassy dell
+      where by "a rustic bridge" we cross to the opposite slope, reascend to the
+      "alcove," survey from the "speculative height" the pasture with its
+      "fleecy tenants," the "sunburnt hayfield," the "woodland scene," the
+      trees, each with its own hue, as so exquisitely depicted by the poet,
+      while Ouse in the distance "glitters in the sun." At length the great
+      avenue is reached.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "How airy and how light the graceful arch,
+     Yet awful as the consecrated roof
+     Re-echoing pious anthems! while beneath,
+     The chequered earth seems restless as a flood
+     Brushed by the wind.
+     So sportive is the light
+     Shot through the boughs, it dances as they dance,
+     Shadow and sunshine intermingling quick,
+     And darkening and enlightening, as the leaves
+     Play wanton, every moment, every spot.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0071" id="linkimage-0071"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9108.jpg" alt="9108 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9108.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Such were the scenes dearest to Cowper, and dear to many still for his
+      sake. T rue, they are not unlike others. A thousand scenes are as
+      beautiful, and many an avenue up and down in English parks is of a nobler
+      stateliness. Yet may this be visited with a special delight, for its own
+      sake and for Cowper's. It is something to be able to look with a poet's
+      eye, to have his thoughts and words so familiar to memory as to blend with
+      the current of our own, as if spontaneously. We learn anew how to observe,
+      and our emotions become almost unconsciously ennobled and refined.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is characteristic of Cowper's mind that scenery of a loftier and more
+      exciting order had a disquieting effect upon him. Of his journey to
+      Eastham, in Sussex, to visit his friend Hayley, he writes: "I indeed
+      myself was a little daunted by the tremendous height of the Sussex hills,
+      in comparison with which all that I had seen elsewhere are dwarfs. But I
+      only was alarmed; Mrs. Unwin had no such sensations, but was always
+      cheerful from the beginning of our expedition to the end of it." And
+      again: "The charms of the place, uncommon as they are, have not in the
+      least alienated my affections from Weston. The genius of that place, suits
+      me better; it has an air of snug concealment, in which a disposition like
+      mine feels peculiarly gratified, whereas here, I see from every window
+      woods like forests, and hills like mountains&mdash;a wildness, in short,
+      that rather increases my natural melancholy." A little while before, on
+      Mr. Newton's return from the glories of Cheddar, Cowper writes: "I would
+      that I could see some of the mountains which you have seen, especially
+      because Dr. Johnson has pronounced that no man is qualified to be a poet
+      who has never seen a mountain. But mountains I shall never see, unless
+      perhaps in a dream, or unless there are such in heaven. Nor those," the
+      poor, heart-stricken poet makes haste to add, "unless I receive twice as
+      much mercy as ever yet was shown to any man."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0072" id="linkimage-0072"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0109m.jpg" alt="0109m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0109.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The last sentence prepares us for East Dereham, with its sad associations.
+      But even from these we need not shrink. The homely Norfolk town brought to
+      the troubled soul deliverance. Few, it may be, would turn aside to visit
+      the place for its own sake; but the remembrance of the poet may well
+      attract. The house in which he died has been replaced by a Congregational
+      Church bearing his name&mdash;twin brother, so to speak, though with
+      scarcely the same appropriateness, to Bunyan Chapel in Bedford. But it is
+      in the church where he lies buried, and in the tomb raised to his memory,
+      that the true interest lies. Never was death more an angel of mercy than
+      to this darkly-shadowed spirit. We all know the words in which the most
+      gifted of poetesses, at "Cowper's Grave," has set the thoughts of many
+      Christian hearts to words that deserve to be immortal:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Like a sick child that knoweth not his mother while she blesses,
+     And drops upon his burning brow the coolness of her kisses:
+     That turns his fevered eyes around&mdash;<i>My mother! where's my mother?</i>
+     As if such tender words and looks could come from any other!
+     The fever gone, with leaps of heart he sees her bending o'er him,
+     Her face all pale from watchful love, the unweary love she bore him!
+     Thus woke the poet from the dream his life's long fever gave him,
+     Beneath those deep pathetic eyes, which closed in death to save him!
+     Thus? oh, not thus! no type of earth could image that awaking,
+     Wherein he scarcely heard the chant of seraphs round him breaking,
+     Or felt the new immortal throb of soul from body parted,
+     But fell those eyes alone, and knew. My Saviour! not deserted!"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0073" id="linkimage-0073"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0110m.jpg" alt="0110m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0110.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0074" id="linkimage-0074"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0112m.jpg" alt="0112m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0112.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0075" id="linkimage-0075"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0113m.jpg" alt="0113m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0113.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE traveller into
+      Derbyshire, unaccustomed to the district, may not unnaturally inquire for
+      "the Peak," which he has been taught to consider one of the chief English
+      mountains, and the name of which has always suggested to him something
+      like a pyramid of rock,&mdash;an English Matterhorn. He will be soon
+      undeceived, and then may paradoxically declare the peculiarity of "the
+      Peak District" to be that there is no Peak! The range so called is a bulky
+      mass of millstone grit, rising irregularly from the limestone | formation
+      which occupies the southern part of Derbyshire, and extending in long
+      spurs, or arms, north and north-east into Yorkshire as far as Sheffield,
+      and west and south into Cheshire and Staffordshire. The plateau is covered
+      by wild moorland, clothed with fern, moss and heather, and broken up by
+      deep hollows and glens, through which streamlets descend, each through its
+      own belt of verdure, from the spongy morasses above, forming in their
+      course many a minute but picturesque waterfall. The pedestrian who
+      establishes himself in the little inn at Ashopton, will have the
+      opportunity of exploring many a breezy height and romantic glen; while, if
+      he has strength of limb and of lungs to make his way to Kinderscout, the
+      highest point of all, he will breathe, at the elevation of not quite two
+      thousand feet, as fresh and exhilarating an atmosphere as can be found
+      anywhere in these islands; the busy smoky city of Manchester being at a
+      distance, "as the crow flies," of little more than fifteen miles! It is no
+      wonder that a select company of hard-worked men, who have lighted on this
+      nook among the hills, having a taste for natural history, resort hither
+      year after year, finding a refreshment in the repeated visit equal at
+      least to that which their fellow-citizens enjoy, at greater cost, in the
+      terraces of Buxton, or on the gigantic slope of Matlock Bank.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Where the limestone emerges from under the mass of grit, the scenery
+      altogether changes. For roughly-rounded, dark-coloured rocks, covered with
+      ling and bracken, now appear narrow glens, bold escarped edges, cliffs
+      splintered into pinnacles and pierced by wonderful caves traversed by
+      hidden streams. Of these caves the "Peak Cavern" at Castleton is the
+      largest, that of the "Blue John Mine" the most beautiful, from its veins
+      of Derbyshire spar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The tourist, however, who confines himself to the Peak District proper,
+      with its immediately outlying scenery, will have a very inadequate view of
+      the charms of Derbyshire. He can scarcely do better than begin at the
+      other extremity, ascending the Dove through its limestone valley as far as
+      Buxton, thence taking rail to Chapel-en-le-Frith, expatiating over the
+      Peak moorlands according to time and inclination, descending to the
+      limestone region again at Castleton, and following the Derwent in its
+      downward course to Ambergate, pausing in his way to visit Chatsworth and
+      Haddon Hall, and to stay awhile at Matlock.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having thus planned our own journey, our starting-point was Ashbourne, a
+      quiet, pretty little town at the extremity of a branch railway. There was
+      not much in the town itself to detain us: we could only pay a hurried
+      visit to the church, whose beautiful spire, 212 feet high, is sometimes
+      called the Pride of the Peak. There are some striking monuments; and among
+      them one with an inscription of almost unequalled mournfulness. It is to
+      an only child, a daughter: "She was in form and intellect most exquisite.
+      The unfortunate parents ventured their all on this frail bark, and the
+      wreck was total." Never was plaint of sorrowing despair more touching. Let
+      us hope, both that the parents' darling was a lamb in the Good Shepherd's
+      fold, and that the sorrowing father and mother found at length that there
+      can be no total wreck to those whose treasure is in heaven!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A night's refreshing rest at the inn, where several nationalities oddly
+      combine to make up one complex sign&mdash;the fierce Saracen, the
+      thick-lipped negro, the English huntsman in his coat of Lincoln green!&mdash;and
+      we sallied forth on a glorious day of early autumn to make our first
+      acquaintance with Dovedale. Leaving the town at the extremity furthest
+      from the railway station, we found ourselves on a well-kept, undulating
+      road, skirted by fair pastures on either hand; the absence of cornfields
+      being a very marked feature in the landscape. Turning into pleasant
+      country lanes to the left, we soon reached the garden gate of a
+      finely-situated rural inn, the "Peveril ut' the Peak," whence a short cut
+      would have led us over the brow of the hill into Dovedale; but we were
+      anxious to visit Ilam, and therefore made a détour as far as the "Izaak
+      Walton," so well known to brothers of the "gentle craft." A little
+      farther, and we were in the identical Happy Valley of Rasselas, where we
+      found a charming little village, with schoolhouse and drinking-fountain,
+      park and hall and church, and every cottage a picture.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0076" id="linkimage-0076"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0116m.jpg" alt="0116m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0116.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Two little rivers meet here, one of them the Manifold, the other and
+      larger the Dove; and after a hurried view of the lovely vale, we lost no
+      time in making our way to the entrance of the far-famed Dale. As most of
+      our readers will know, the Dove divides Staffordshire from Derbyshire: we
+      took the Derbyshire side, entering at a little gate on the river bank, and
+      leisurely and with many a pause pursued a walk with which surely in
+      England there are few to compare. The river is a shallow, sparkling
+      stream, with many a pool dear to the angler, and hurrying down, babbling
+      over pebbles, and broken in its course by many a tiny waterfall. On both
+      sides rise tall limestone cliffs, splintered into countless fantastic
+      forms&mdash;rocky walls, towers, and pinnacles, and in one place a natural
+      archway near the summit, leading to the uplands beyond. And all up the
+      sloping sides, and wherever root-hold could be obtained on pinnacle and
+      crag, were clustered shrubs and trees of every shade of foliage, with the
+      first touch of autumn to heighten the exquisite variety by tints which as
+      yet suggested only afar off the thought of decay. The solitude of the
+      scene served but to enhance its loveliness. For that road by the river
+      side is no broad well-beaten track. No vehicle can pass, and even the
+      pedestrian has sometimes to pick his way with difficulty. The stillness,
+      on the day of our visit, was unbroken save for the murmur of the water,
+      the twitter of the birds, and the rustling of the branches in the gentle
+      breeze. The blue sky overhead, and the sunlight casting shadows upon the
+      cliffs and the stream, completed the picture; and if the memory of Izaak
+      Walton and Charles Cotton haunted their favourite stream, it so happened
+      that we encountered none of their disciples.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Many travellers leave the glen at Mill Dale, where a pleasant country lane
+      to the right enables them to gain the high road between Ashbourne and
+      Buxton. Time and strength permitting, however, we would strongly advise
+      the tourist to make his way by the river banks to Hartington, passing
+      through Beresford Dale, where at Pike Pool, represented in the
+      frontispiece to this chapter, all the beauties of the Dove Valley are
+      concentrated at one view. A limestone obelisk stands in the middle of the
+      river, with a background of rich foliage, just touched, at the time of our
+      visit, with autumnal hues, while the clear water eddied and sparkled
+      around its base. This pool was the favourite resort of Walton and his
+      friend Cotton. Many allusions to the spot will be found in <i>The Complete
+      Angler</i>; and the comfortable inn at Hartington, reached from Beresford
+      Dale by a walk for about a mile through pleasant meadows, bears Charles
+      Cotton's name.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Hartington, the high road to Buxton may be taken; or, far better, the
+      traveller may make his way to the famous watering-place by the plateau
+      which divides the valley of the Dove from that of its tributary Manifold;
+      he will then descend to the former valley near Longnor, and thence may
+      climb to Axe Edge, a great outlying southerly branch or spur of the
+      gritstone, from which the Dove has its rise. Parting with this lovely
+      river at its very fountain-head, we find it difficult to believe that so
+      much beauty and even grandeur can have been included in the twenty miles'
+      course of a little English stream, and are ready to endorse the
+      enthusiastic tribute of Cotton:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "The rapid Garonne and the winding Seine
+     Are both too mean.
+
+     Beloved Dove, with thee
+     To claim priority:
+
+     Nay, Thame and Isis, when conjoined, submit
+     And lay their trophies at thy silver feet."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0077" id="linkimage-0077"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0118m.jpg" alt="0118m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0118.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      At Buxton, easily reached from Axe Edge, we found every variety of
+      excursion and other enjoyments open to us, "for a consideration." The
+      Derbyshire dales that may be easily explored from this point are very
+      fine; and the whole of the Peak is open to the tourist. We could give,
+      however, but a hurried glance to these manifold beauties, being bent upon
+      descending the Derwent in some such leisurely fashion as that in which we
+      had ascended the Dove. We had, indeed, the railway now to facilitate the
+      latter half of our journey&mdash;no slight matter! and yet this had the
+      effect of bringing multitudes of travellers like ourselves, so that the
+      end of the Derbyshire tour was taken in company with a crowd. For a time,
+      however, we were comparatively alone to Castleton, by Mam Tor, the
+      wonderful "Shivering Mountain," where the sandstone and mountain limestone
+      meet;&mdash;so called from the loose shale which is constantly descending
+      its side, and which, in popular belief, does not diminish the mountain's
+      bulk: thence down through the Winnyats or Windgates, a picturesque pass
+      between lofty cliffs, taking its name from the winds which are said to
+      rage almost ceaselessly through the narrow defile, although at the time of
+      our visit the air was calm, while the lights and shadows of a perfect
+      autumn day beautified the grey limestone crags.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0078" id="linkimage-0078"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0119m.jpg" alt="0119m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0119.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The ruins of Peveril's Castle, and the gloomy caves of Castleton, of
+      course were visited. Then began the journey down the Derwent, embracing
+      pretty Hather-sage, with its ancient camps, tumuli, and other remains
+      whose origin can only be conjectured. Here is the traditionary grave of
+      Robin Hood's gigantic comrade, "Little John." A "Gospel Stone" in this
+      village, once used as a pulpit, perpetuates the memory of the open-air
+      harvest and thanksgiving services of past generations; while in the
+      village of Eyam, three or four miles lower down, the "Pulpit Rock," in a
+      natural dell still called a "church," brings to mind the heroism of a
+      devoted pastor, who during the plague of 1665, when it would have been
+      dangerous to meet in any building, daily assembled his parishioners in
+      this place to pray with them, to teach and to console.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0079" id="linkimage-0079"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9120.jpg" alt="9120 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9120.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The traveller will not regret the slight détour from the road by the river
+      to visit this most interesting spot; and he may return to the Derwent by
+      Middleton Dale, another magnificent pass through limestone cliffs. Hence
+      he will soon reach Edensor, the "model village," and Chatsworth, "the
+      Palace of the Peak." The splendours of the park and mansion are so
+      familiar to thousands,&mdash;to whom in fact "the Peak of Derbyshire" is a
+      name suggestive only of Chatsworth and Haddon Hall,&mdash;that we need
+      attempt no description here. The visitor may follow his own bent, whether
+      to wander in the stately park, or to join the hourly procession along the
+      silken-roped avenue through the corridors and apartments of the Hall, with
+      due admiration of the pictures, the statuary and the wonderful carving;
+      thence passing out into the conservatory and the gardens, where nature has
+      done so much, and art so much more. Truly days at Chatsworth are among the
+      bright days of life, especially if there be time and opportunity also to
+      visit Haddon Hall, that almost unique specimen of an old baronial English
+      home, empty and dismantled now, but carefully preserved and beautiful for
+      situation, upon the Derbyshire Wye, which here comes down from its own
+      limestone glens and dales through the pretty town of Bakewell, to unite at
+      Rowsley with the Derwent.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this junction, too, the traveller comes upon the railway, and will be
+      tempted to pass only too rapidly by the beauties of the Derwent Valley
+      between Rowsley and Ambergate. We can but assure him that he will lose
+      much by so doing; that Darley Dale and Moor are very beautiful, and that
+      the tourist who rushes on to Matlock Bath without staying to climb Matlock
+      Bank does an injustice to Derbyshire scenery: while if he be in pursuit of
+      health, he can find no better resting-place than at the renowned |
+      hydropathic establishments which occupy the heights.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0080" id="linkimage-0080"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0121m.jpg" alt="0121m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0121.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Still, most who are in search of the picturesque will prefer to seek it at
+      Matlock Bath, where indeed they will not be left to discover it for
+      themselves. In this famous spot the beauties of nature are all catalogued,
+      ticketed, and forced on the attention by signboards and handbills. Here is
+      the path to "the beautiful scenery" (admission so much); there "the
+      Romantic Rocks" (again a fee); there the ferry to "the Lovers' Walk," a
+      charming path by the river-side, overshadowed by trees, and so on.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0081" id="linkimage-0081"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0123m.jpg" alt="0123m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0123.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Petrifying wells offer their rival attractions, and caves in the limestone
+      are repeatedly illuminated during the season for the delight of
+      excursionists. The market for fossils, spar, photographs, ferns, and all
+      the wonderful things that nobody buys except at watering-places, is brisk
+      and incessant. But when we have added to all this that the heights are
+      truly magnificent, the woods and river very charming, and the arrangements
+      of the hotels most homelike and satisfactory, it will not be wondered at
+      that the balance of pleasure remained largely in favour of Matlock.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0082" id="linkimage-0082"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0124m.jpg" alt="0124m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0124.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      It would be certainly pleasanter to discover for one's self that here is
+      "the Switzerland of England," than to have the fact thrust upon attention
+      by placards at every turn; but perhaps there are those to whom the
+      information thus afforded is welcome, while the enormous highly-coloured
+      pictures of valley, dale and crag which adorn every railway station on the
+      line, no doubt perform their part in attracting and instructing visitors.
+      They need certainly be at no loss to occupy their time to advantage,
+      whether their stay be longer or shorter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0083" id="linkimage-0083"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0125m.jpg" alt="0125m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0125.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Everything is made easy for them. To all the noblest points of view, easy
+      paths have been constructed: the fatigue of mountain-climbing is reduced
+      to a minimum; and certainly the landscapes disclosed even from a moderate
+      elevation by the judicious pruning and removal of intercepting foliage,
+      are such as to repay most richly the moderate effort requisite for the
+      ascent. Lord Byron writes, that there are views in Derbyshire "as noble as
+      in Greece or Switzerland." He was probably thinking of the prospect from
+      Masson, from which the whole valley, with its boundary of tors, or
+      limestone cliffs, is outspread before the observer, while the river
+      sparkles beneath, reflecting masses of foliage, with depths of heavenly
+      blue between; and beyond the scarred and broken ramparts of the glen,
+      purple moorlands stretch away to the high and curving line of the horizon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The traveller southward, who has accompanied us thus far, if yet unsated
+      with beauty, will be wise in taking the road from Matlock to Cromford, the
+      next station, instead of proceeding by railway. The short walk or drive
+      between the limestone cliffs, although the great majority of passengers
+      pass it by unnoticed, is really, for its length, as magnificent as almost
+      any of the dales in the higher part of the country. At Cromford there is
+      the stately mansion of the Arkwrights, and a little beyond, on the other
+      side of the railway, is Lea Hurst, the home of Miss Florence Nightingale,
+      a name that will be gratefully enshrined in the memories of the English
+      people, even when war shall be no more. From this spot the valley
+      gradually broadens, still richly-wooded up the heights, with fair meadows
+      on the river banks. And so we reach Ambergate, where we re-enter the busy
+      world, bearing with us ineffaceable memories of the beauties and the
+      wonders of "the Peak."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0084" id="linkimage-0084"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0126m.jpg" alt="0126m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0126.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0085" id="linkimage-0085"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0128m.jpg" alt="0128m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0128.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      WESTWARD HO!
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0086" id="linkimage-0086"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0129m.jpg" alt="0129m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0129.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Almost every place of popular resort has its "season," when its charms are
+      supposed to be at their highest, and the annual migration of visitors sets
+      in. The period is not always determined by climate or calendar; and such
+      is the caprice of fashion, that many a lovely spot is left well-nigh
+      solitary during the weeks of its full perfection, the crowd beginning to
+      gather when the beauties of the place are on the wane. Tastes will
+      undoubtedly differ as to the most favourable time to visit one or another
+      beautiful scene; but none, we should imagine, will dispute our opinion
+      that the best season for travel in the west of England is in the early
+      spring. We leave the north, with patches of snow yet on the hills, and the
+      first leaflets struggling in vain to unfold themselves on the blackened
+      branches; or, if we hail from the metropolis, we gladly turn our backs on
+      wind-swept streets and bleak suburban roads, to find ourselves in two or
+      three hours speeding beneath soft sunshine, between far-extending
+      orchards, in all the loveliness of their delicate bloom, while the grass
+      is of a richer tint, the blue sky, dappled with fleecy clouds, of a more
+      exquisite purity, and instead of the slowly-relaxing grasp of winter, the
+      promise of summer already thrills the air. "The flowers appear on the
+      earth; the time of the singing of birds is come, and the voice of the
+      turtle is heard in our land."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But whither shall we direct our steps? It is the perfection of comfort in
+      travelling to have time at command. We need be in no haste to leave the
+      apple-blossomy valleys of Somersetshire, even for the woods and cliffs of
+      Devon; and if the tourist would visit a spot which, in its own way, is
+      unique in England, let him turn aside, as we did, soon after leaving
+      Bristol, to a rift in the Mendip Hills, and make his way through the pass
+      between the Cheddar Cliffs. A more majestic scene it would be difficult to
+      find. For actual magnitude is only one element of sublimity. The biggest
+      mountain is not always the grandest, just as the finest landscape is not
+      always that which embraces the greatest number of square miles. The
+      Himalayas are said to be far less imposing than the Alps. The width of the
+      valleys, the more gradual slope of the mountains, and the greater distance
+      from the eye, detract from their apparent height as compared with Mont
+      Blanc or the Matterhorn. This little gorge of the Mendips affords a
+      striking illustration of the same kind. The cliffs are less than five
+      hundred feet high; yet under certain conditions of atmosphere we have had
+      as deep a sense of sublimity, and under others as keen a sense of beauty
+      here, as in districts where the altitude is to be reckoned by thousands of
+      feet instead of hundreds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The approach to Cheddar is by a short railway from Yatton, on the Bristol
+      and Exeter line, or by the road, which winds through a rich valley. The
+      hills on either side are green to their very summits, from which fine
+      views may be gained of the Bristol Channel, near Clevedon and Weston. One
+      of them, Dolbury, is crowned by a remarkably fine British camp, enclosing
+      within its ample area a Roman stronghold. Wrington, the birthplace of John
+      Locke, is passed. Glastonbury Tor comes into view, and remains a
+      conspicuous object for the rest of the journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Immediately behind the village of Cheddar rises the bare grey ridge of the
+      Mendips. Cut sheer through it from summit to base is an extraordinary
+      cleft. The road which winds along the bottom of the ravine is in some
+      places only wide enough to allow two vehicles to pass abreast. On the
+      right-hand side a perpendicular wall of rock rises to the height of about
+      four hundred and thirty feet. Its surface is broken by enormous
+      buttresses, like the towers of some Titanic castle, surmounted by spires
+      and pinnacles, whose light airy grace contrasts finely with the massive
+      walls on which they rest. Down the face of the cliff long festoons of ivy
+      and creeping plants wave to and fro. The scanty soil on the ledges and in
+      the fissures is bright with wild flowers. The yew and mountain ash,
+      dwarfed into mere shrubs, seem to cling with a precarious foothold to the
+      face of the rock. Far above us innumerable jackdaws and crows chatter
+      noisily, and hawks, with which the district abounds, soar across the
+      narrow strip of sky overhead. The opposite side of the ravine is less
+      precipitous, though even here it is steep enough to task the energies of
+      the climber, and grand masses of rock stand out from the hill-side.
+      Conspicuous amongst these is the Lion Rock, so called from its
+      extraordinary resemblance to a crouching lion. This district abounds in
+      caverns, many of them of great extent and beauty, which will well repay a
+      visit. Local tradition affirms that one reaches as far as Wookey Hole, a
+      distance of ten miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0087" id="linkimage-0087"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8131.jpg" alt="8131 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8131.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The devoted and self-denying efforts of Mrs. Hannah More must not be
+      forgotten in connection with Cheddar. When residing at Barley Wood, a few
+      miles distant, about the end of the last century, she was dismayed at the
+      ignorance and immorality of the villagers, who were "living like the
+      brutes that perish," and indulging in gross vices. Scarcely even in the
+      heart of Africa could more complete heathenism be found. As yet Sunday
+      Schools, Tract Societies and all the means of usefulness, now so common,
+      had no existence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Her endeavours for the amelioration of the people were as experiments to
+      be tried single-handed, under the most unpromising circumstances, and in
+      the face of the most violent hostility and abuse.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Yet she did not shrink from the arduous duty which lay before her. A house
+      was taken, a pious teacher appointed, and the school was opened. Gradually
+      enemies were conciliated, as the happy effects of Christian teaching
+      became apparent. Many of the children learned to know and love the
+      Saviour. The influence spread from the children to the parents, and by the
+      blessing of God the experiment, which at first seemed so hopeless, was
+      crowned with a success beyond her utmost expectations. It was in
+      connection with her evangelistic work at Cheddar that she wrote her first
+      tract, <i>Village Politics, by Will Chip</i>. This led to the preparation
+      of her <i>Cheap Repository Tracts</i>, to be followed in due time by the
+      establishment of the Religious Tract Society, whose operations now extend
+      throughout the whole world. On the completion of the series, Mrs. More
+      wrote in her journal: "Bless the Lord, O my soul, that I have been spared
+      to accomplish this work. Do Thou, O Lord, bless and prosper it to the good
+      of many; and if it do good, may I give Thee the glory, and take to myself
+      the shame of its defects. I have devoted three years to the work. Two
+      millions of these tracts have been disposed of during the first year! God
+      works by weak instruments, to show that the glory is all His own."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Cheddar the traveller may either continue his journey by way of
+      Wells, or may return at once to the main line, passing near the coast of
+      the Bristol Channel, with a wide alluvial plain at his left, once covered
+      by an arm of the sea, with islands, as Brent Tor and others, emerging from
+      the waters, and reaching as far as Glastonbury or Avalon&mdash;"apple-island,"
+      famed in legend and song.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0088" id="linkimage-0088"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0132m.jpg" alt="0132m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0132.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      A little further, and the marshy plain of the Parret stretches away in one
+      direction to Sedgemoor, scene of the "last battle fought on English
+      ground," * that in which the ill-fated Duke of Monmouth suffered
+      irretrievable defeat, and in another, to Athelney, the place of King
+      Alfred's retreat and noble rally against the Danes. In memory of the
+      stories that charmed our childhood, we could do no otherwise than take the
+      branch line at Durston, whence a few minutes' run places us in the marshy
+      unpicturesque scene so memorable in English story. The whole neighbourhood
+      was evidently once covered with woods and morasses; good drainage has made
+      it fertile now, but it must be confessed that it must depend for all its
+      attractiveness on its associations. On or near the traditional site of the
+      "neatherd's cottage," an unpretending stone pillar with a lengthy
+      inscription preserves the memory of Alfred's sojourn.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Macaulay. The date was July 6, 1685
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Resuming the journey westward, we soon discern the towers of the Taunton
+      churches, and may find a welcome night's rest in this bright and pretty
+      town; or turning again off the main line, may pass north west, by a route
+      full of interest, to the Ouantock Hills. On our way we pass Combe Florey,
+      famous as the residence for a time of Sydney Smith, and as the scene of
+      some of the most characteristic stories of his life. But we must not
+      linger in the valley: at every point the wooded hill-slopes tempt us to
+      climb upwards among shady groves of beech, over turf thick with primroses
+      and bluebells, then out upon the furzy heights. It hardly matters which
+      path we take, whether up Cothelstone, whence the view is perhaps most
+      magnificent, or Will's Neck, highest point of all, or Hurley Beacon. From
+      hilltop to hill-top we make our way, descending into mossy glens, where
+      the hill stream trickles down in miniature waterfalls, or striking down
+      some deep wooded combe, where the houses of a village nestle among the
+      trees, and the spacious church tells of a time when the inhabitants far
+      out-numbered the present scanty population. In the valley below, to the
+      north-east, we descry the village of Nether Stowey, for some time the
+      residence of Coleridge, and further to the north, at the foot of one of
+      the loveliest of wooded combes, is Alfoxton, which was at the same time
+      the home of Wordsworth. The two friends have told us how they used to meet
+      and discuss high themes in many a charming stroll, their neighbours much
+      wondering the while, and the government of the day suspecting their
+      advanced opinions. The end was that they had to leave, not before they had
+      made imperishable record of the beauties of the place. Thus Wordsworth
+      writes to Coleridge, in the Prelude:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+                         "Beloved Friend!
+     When looking back, thou seest in clearer view
+     Than any liveliest sights of yesterday
+     That summer, under whose indulgent skies
+     Upon smooth Quantock's airy ridge we roved
+     Unchecked, or loitered 'mid her sylvan combes:
+     Thou in bewitching words, with happy hearts
+     Midst chaint the vision of that ancient man;
+     The bright-eyed Mariner, and rueful woes
+     Didst utter of the Lady Christabel."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Coleridge, in a note to the <i>Ancient Mariner</i>, says, "It was on a
+      delightful walk from Nether Stowey to Dulverton, with Wordsworth and his
+      sister, in the autumn of 1797, that this poem was planned and in part
+      composed."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great hilly range to the west, in full view across the valley from the
+      Ouantocks, is an outlying rampart of Exmoor, and the brown peak in the
+      distance is Dunkery Beacon, the highest point in Somersetshire. Our road
+      leads between these heights and the sea, by Dunster, with its great ivied
+      castle overhanging the quaint feudal-looking little town, and Minehead, a
+      cheerful unpretending watering-place, to Porlock, where the ascent of what
+      the country people call a "terràble long hill," by a zigzag moorland road,
+      leads to a height from which, on looking back, we have a prospect of
+      surpassing grandeur. Let us gaze our fill: if the day be fine, and the
+      atmosphere clear, we shall see nothing nobler in the west of England. To
+      the south the huge masses of Dunkery, brown with heather, rise from a
+      foreground of woods and glens; below, to the east, lies a fair valley,
+      surrounded with hills of every picturesque variety in form, prominent
+      among which is the rugged side of Bossington Beacon. Towards the
+      south-east, heights on heights arise, some richly wooded, others majestic
+      in their bareness; while to the north and north-east stretches the Bristol
+      Channel, with the Welsh mountains dimly seen beyond.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0089" id="linkimage-0089"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0134m.jpg" alt="0134m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0134.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Then we go southwards over a reach of wild moorland, and come upon the
+      indescribable loveliness of Lynmouth and Lynton. Far beyond railways,
+      accessible only by long walking or driving over hilly roads, or by small
+      boats from steamers on their way up and down the Channel, this fair spot
+      can never attract the crowd; but those who have wandered by its streams,
+      or climbed its heights, are singularly unanimous in pronouncing it the
+      most charming spot in England. Lynmouth is in the valley, on the shore;
+      Lynton on the height. The name is derived from the <i>lyns</i>, or
+      torrents, which descend separately, each through a wooded gorge or combe,
+      until they meet beside the sea. Great mossy rocks everywhere break the
+      course of the torrents, and the luxuriant foliage which lines the banks,
+      the ferns and flowers, with the overhanging trees, combine to make a
+      succession of perfect pictures.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0090" id="linkimage-0090"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0135m.jpg" alt="0135m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0135.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The traveller will, of course, go up Lyndale, the valley of the East Lyn,
+      as far as Watersmeet, and will not omit to explore the quieter, more
+      luxuriant, though less magnificent West Lyn. He will climb to the summit
+      of Lyn Cliff, and will survey at ease the prospect from the summer-house;
+      and will not omit the extraordinary Valley of the Rocks, reached by a
+      grand walk along the face of the cliff, which overhangs the sea to the
+      west of Lynton. At a break in this path he suddenly comes to a gigantic
+      gateway, formed of two rocky pyramids, and enters upon a scene which, to
+      his first view, appears strewn with the fragments of some earlier world.
+      "Imagine," says Southey, "a narrow vale between two ridges of hills,
+      somewhat steep: the southern hill turfed; the vale, which runs from east
+      to west, covered with huge stones, and fragments of stone among the fern
+      that fills it; the northern ridge completely bare, excoriated of all turf
+      and all soil, the very bones and skeleton of the earth; rock reclining
+      upon rock, stone piled upon stone, a huge terrific mass. A palace of the
+      pre-historic kings, a city of the Anakim, must have appeared so shapeless,
+      and yet so like the ruins of what had been shaped after the waters of the
+      flood subsided.... I never felt the sublimity of solitude before."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The drive from Lynton to Barnstaple, though not long, being, we believe,
+      somewhat under twenty miles, brought to us a crowd of half-forgotten
+      associations of early days when coach-travelling was the chief means of
+      locomotion. The coach itself was of the old build, spick and span in its
+      neatness; the coachman was of old-fashioned ways; the four sleek horses
+      were no mere omnibus hacks, but as they warmed to their work up and down
+      hill, showed a mettle akin to that of roadsters in days long ago. Or
+      perhaps we had only imagined until now that the old breed had
+      deteriorated! The villages on the way had no sign of "Station" or "Station
+      Hotel" about them; children ran from the cottage doors to shout after the
+      coach, or to bring primroses and violets to the passengers; rustics
+      gathered for a chat where the coachman pulled up, as he did tolerably
+      often, for time seemed but a small object in that old-world region. And
+      all around was outspread a landscape of rich, ever-changing loveliness,
+      ruddy in soil, rich in verdure, as at one time we descended into lanes
+      half-embowered by the already luxuriant hedgerows, and at another emerged
+      on open moorland swept by soft breezes from the sea, and engirdled by the
+      hazy forms of distant hills. At length the estuary of the Taw came into
+      view, the houses of Barnstaple appeared, the coach drove into the station
+      yard, and we were in the world again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another route might have been taken from Lynton to Ilfracombe, by way of
+      Combe Martin, with its fine and rocky bay; but we were anxious to reach
+      less crowded and familiar spots than the famous North Devon
+      watering-place, though this also is in its way delightful. We must,
+      however, see one or two further points on the coast before striking inland
+      again; and accordingly, took up our night's quarters at Bideford, famed
+      for the length of its bridge, and the steepness of its streets. Emerging
+      early in the morning from the highest part of the town, we made our way to
+      Westward Ho! that magnificent possibility, whose stately mansions and
+      hotels, broad quays and pier, surrounded by vessels from all parts, with
+      its broad level plain by the sea and noble background of wooded hills, had
+      so often captivated us&mdash;in railway-station waiting-rooms. We found it
+      all there, except the mansions, the quays, and the ships! The bay is
+      glorious, the plain upon the shore stretches far and wide,&mdash;to the
+      satisfaction of golfers, for whose favourite game no spot can be better
+      adapted: there is a great pebble-ridge, a natural breakwater two miles
+      long and fifty feet wide, composed of rounded pebbles of carboniferous
+      "grit;" the background of wooded cliffs is magnificent, while a lonely
+      pier, one commodious hotel, a bath-house on a splendid scale, some rows of
+      villas, lodging-houses, and one or two educational establishments give
+      promise of prosperity to come. A great sanatorium or hydropathic
+      institution, to be called "the Kingsley," after the gifted man who has set
+      the stamp of his genius on this whole neighbourhood, has been projected;
+      and certainly for purposes of health as well as enjoyment, no place could
+      be better adapted than the woodland terraces overlooking this most
+      beautiful bay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The mention of Charles Kingsley reminds us of Clovelly, his early home,
+      and to the last his favourite spot. Early in the morning we started for
+      this unique Devonshire village, with high expectations, and under the
+      auspices of the British Government, as our chosen vehicle was the
+      "mail-cart," in the shape of a very comfortable waggonette filled with
+      pleasant chatty passengers, all the livelier, perhaps, from the
+      good-humoured sense of merit which early-rising is apt to engender. The
+      road was not particularly striking, save for glimpses of the channel seen
+      through the light morning haze: the breath of spring was in the air, and
+      when we alighted at the "Hobby" gate, we were fully prepared for the three
+      miles' walk by which our breakfast was yet to be earned. The path, in
+      reality a broad, well-kept drive, is carried along the face of the cliff,
+      which shelves gradually, covered thickly with trees and brushwood, to the
+      shore, while the bank towers above, soft with moss and beautiful with
+      flowers. The cliff curves in and out irregularly; broken in one or two
+      places by deep glens, over which the road is carried by rustic bridges.
+      Long shadows lay, that morning, across the path; above and below, the
+      tender budding foliage clothed the dark branches of oak and elm, hazel and
+      beech, in every variety of shade; the air was musical with birds, and,
+      stirred by the gentle morning breeze and the whisper of the boughs,
+      blended with the distant murmur of the sea. It was a walk to be
+      remembered. At length, at a turning of the road, Clovelly came into sight,
+      about a mile distant&mdash;a seemingly confused heap of houses emerging on
+      all sides from thick woodland, and slanting steeply down to a stone pier
+      jutting out into a little bay. At the end of the Hobby walk, the summit of
+      the village was gained, and we were soon descending its curious steep
+      street, not without longing looks at the quaint little lodging-houses, all
+      untenanted as yet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0091" id="linkimage-0091"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8139.jpg" alt="8139 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8139.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Clovelly is a place to linger in, and to dream! The practical need of the
+      hour, however, was breakfast, during the preparation of which meal it was
+      pleasant to sit in the hotel balcony, and look out upon the bay, with its
+      lines of light and shadow, and the long outline of Lundy Island showing
+      clear in the distance; for now the morning mists had lifted, and the
+      brightness of spring was over sea and land. A walk of marvellous beauty
+      followed, into the park of Clovelly Court, over springy turf, through
+      woodlands budding into leaf, and over a stretch of rugged wilderness,
+      preserved with some art in its primitive simplicity. Thence, by a winding
+      pathway, or over a steep grassy slope, the highest point may be reached, a
+      noble cliff, called from some old local story Gallantry Bower. A little
+      summer-house, nestling in the cliff-side, commands a grand range of
+      cliffs, with their curved, contorted strata, peculiar to the carboniferous
+      formation, while many a jutting or broken crag gives a castellated aspect
+      to this magnificent rampart of the coast. Inland, the scene is full of
+      beauties of hill and glen, in almost measureless variety; but we could not
+      linger to survey them all; for our way lay in another direction, before we
+      could feast again on the beauties of cliff and sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hartland Point, a little farther on, is the true "Land's End" of
+      Devonshire, the terminating promontory of Bideford Bay, a tongue of grassy
+      land, not more than thirty or forty feet wide, at the summit of a
+      tremendous precipice on either side, pointing, it is said, to a similar
+      projection on the opposite Welsh coast, like twin pillars of Hercules, *
+      guarding the estuary of the Severn.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Ptolemy, the geographer (2nd cent.), is supposed to have
+     referred to Hartland Point, as the "Promontory of Hercules."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0092" id="linkimage-0092"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9140.jpg" alt="9140 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9140.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      It would now have been easy to visit Bude Haven, and so to travel south
+      and south-west along the cliffs which fringe the Atlantic, but our present
+      plan was to strike inland to Dartmoor. The little town of Oke-hampton was
+      therefore our first destination, reached by a somewhat dull route,&mdash;whichever
+      road may be taken,&mdash;but, when gained, most interesting. The town lies
+      in a valley, watered by a swift romantic river which, at one point,
+      sweeping round a wooded hill, crowned by the ruins of an old castle, forms
+      as lovely a picture as anything of the kind in England. Kingsley abuses
+      Okehampton, unjustly, we think: but, whatever may be thought of the town
+      and its immediate neighbourhood, there can be no doubt as to the wonderful
+      interest of the excursions that may be taken from it as a centre. From the
+      castle hill, as from other points in the town, the chief object that
+      arrests the eye is the vast brown sweep of rising ground, suggestive of
+      mysterious desolation beyond, which we know to be the boundary of
+      Dartmoor. Ascending, we find ourselves at first on pleasant, breezy,
+      though treeless heights, but keep to beaten paths, and pursue our onward
+      journey. At length the moorland track over which we have passed seems to
+      rise behind us and shut out the world; and as we gaze around, we feel that
+      all pictures which we had framed to ourselves of wild deserted solitudes
+      are surpassed. "Like the fragments of an earlier world," is the comparison
+      that naturally rises to the lips. We are not unfamiliar with moorland
+      scenery&mdash;with Rombald's Moor, for instance, in Yorkshire, beautiful
+      in its variety of colour, from the tender green and softening greys and
+      browns of spring, to the purple heathery splendours of the autumn, while
+      the song of lark and linnet overhead, or the plaintive cry of the lapwing,
+      gives animation to the scene. But at Dartmoor is a new experience of
+      desolation. The stupendous mass of granite which here crops up from hidden
+      depths is covered on its broken surface with thick peat, in whose depths
+      the blackened trunks of trees occasionally give evidence of a time when
+      the range was clothed with wood, but which, for the most part, bears only
+      coarse grass and moss, with heather and whortleberry in the most favoured
+      localities. Broad spaces are covered by morass and bog, dangerous to the
+      unaccustomed pedestrian. Scanty streams break from the heights, and hurry
+      in all directions down to the valley, swollen to wild fury after a storm.
+      The "tor," or shapeless masses of rock, which stand out from the peaty
+      surface in all directions, are but, as it were, the jagged projections
+      from the interior rock-skeleton. Some may be readily ascended; Yes Tor
+      (probably East Tor, pronounced Devonshire fashion) being the highest, and
+      on many accounts the best worth climbing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0093" id="linkimage-0093"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0141m.jpg" alt="0141m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0141.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The prospect of the moor from this or any other commanding point can only
+      be described as awful in its grim, monotonous, silent desolation, the only
+      beauty being that of swelling distant outline, or frequently that of
+      colour, when the atmosphere is clear between the frequent showers, and the
+      rays of the sun light up the heather and the moss, diversifying the dark
+      shadows of the tors with the various hues of green, with the ruddy gleam
+      of withered fern, and rushes in many a morass. But let not the traveller
+      be too hopeful of sunshine and clear air! For as the local rhyme says:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The south wind blows, and brings wet weather;
+     The north gives wet and cold together;
+     The west wind comes brimful of rain,
+     The east wind drives it back again.
+     Then, if the sun in red should set,
+     We know the morrow must be wet;
+     And if the eve is clad in grey,
+     The next is sure a rainy day."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0094" id="linkimage-0094"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9142.jpg" alt="9142 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9142.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Still, the slopes by which Dartmoor descends to the lowlands around are
+      beautiful. In fact, the mighty granite mass is girdled by an investiture
+      of fair glens and smiling villages, which make the circuit of it a
+      succession of some of the brightest pictures that England can anywhere
+      present in the same compass. The drive from Oke-hampton to Chagford, or to
+      Moreton Hampstead, for instance, is of wonderful charm. Near the former
+      village, the river Teign descends over rocks and boulders in a
+      richly-wooded glen, as beautiful in parts as Dovedale.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0095" id="linkimage-0095"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8142.jpg" alt="8142 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8142.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The rivers, indeed, which come down on all sides from Dartmoor, are the
+      glory of Devonshire. Beside the Teign, there is the Dart itself, one
+      head-stream of which rises near the well-known prison at Prince Town, with
+      the Taw, Tavy, Avon, Erme, Plym, and streamlets innumerable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Travellers in favourable weather will do well to cross Dartmoor by the
+      coach-road, from Moreton Hampstead to Tavistock, past the big, gloomy
+      prison, appropriately placed in the very wildest and most desolate part of
+      the whole region. Or, as we did, making Okehampton their headquarters,
+      they may pass on by train by way of Lidford. The railway is carried in
+      places at a great height, on the open edge of the moor, which it curiously
+      fringes: it seems essentially a holiday line; there is no hurry, and the
+      traveller, as he passes along, may leisurely survey the frowning heights
+      above, or the fair valley below, according to his choice.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0096" id="linkimage-0096"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0143m.jpg" alt="0143m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0143.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Lidford station being reached, we left the train, and found ourselves in
+      an unfinished-looking spot, with little outwardly to attract. Having,
+      however, received directions how to proceed, we crossed a farmyard, where
+      some cattle with stupendous horns looked and lowed at us in a manner
+      trying to the nerves, then, emerging near a river bank, made our way for
+      less than a mile up the stream, on a grassy path beneath overhanging
+      woods, when at a sudden turn up a glen that opened to the main stream, the
+      gleam of waters caught the eye, at the first glance like some tall spirit
+      of the dell, glimmering through the foliage that enshrouded it. A more
+      beautiful cascade is hardly to be seen in England, when Dartmoor has had
+      abundance of rain. At other times they say a friendly miller can turn on a
+      supply of water, else thriftily economised for his needs. Happily, no such
+      artificial arrangement was needful on the occasion of our visit; and we
+      remained long admiring the lovely picture.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0097" id="linkimage-0097"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0144m.jpg" alt="0144m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0144.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Retracing our steps, we climbed to the village, crossing on our way a
+      commonplace-looking bridge, of a single arch, at a clip in the road, with
+      the sound of a great rush of waters beneath.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0098" id="linkimage-0098"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0145m.jpg" alt="0145m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0145.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      We looked over the parapet, but could discern nothing, owing to the mass
+      of thick shrubs and foliage which overarched the stream, and made our way
+      uphill to the village. Here the traveller is directed to the churchyard,
+      to see a curious epitaph on a watchmaker, in which some rather obvious
+      allusions to human life are borrowed from his craft. Students of mortuary
+      inscriptions are thankful often for small mercies in the way of wit, and
+      are not always careful to note where the humour degenerates into
+      irreverence or worse. We were more sadly interested in the contrast, which
+      we have also observed in other churchyards, between the old style and the
+      new; the simple piety of our fathers and the mimic popery of some of their
+      descendants. Both are very observable at Lidford. One ancient tombstone
+      bore some pathetic lines, beginning,&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Praise to our God, whose faithful love
+     Hath called another to His rest."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      But the modern fashion was evidently to put up a flimsy cross, with the
+      letters R.I.P., <i>Requiescat in pace!</i> a prayer for the dead, who are
+      beyond our reach, safe in the endless rest, or in a darkness whither our
+      prayers cannot avail them. We left the scene with the feeling deeper than
+      ever, that there are growing up errors among us, against which it becomes
+      all true men earnestly to strive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0099" id="linkimage-0099"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9146.jpg" alt="9146 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9146.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Meanwhile we had learned something about the bridge that we had crossed
+      just before, and the rush of waters below. Returning, therefore, and
+      making application at the house close by, we were conducted down into a
+      rocky gorge, through which rushes the Lid, one of the Dartmoor streams, a
+      tributary of the Tamar. The cliffs, irregular and castellated, are seventy
+      feet high; a narrow, dangerous path is carried along one side of the rock,
+      and the wild foaming waters in the dark, narrow glen carry back the
+      traveller's mind to Switzerland. Certainly there is nothing like "Lidford
+      Bridge" elsewhere in England; the Strid in Bolton Woods may equal it in
+      its rush of waters; but the rocks there lie in the open woodland, and the
+      stream is but a few feet below their summit: here the beetling precipices
+      almost meet above, as at the "Devil's Bridge" in Cardiganshire, and there
+      are weird stories at both places of travellers on horseback who have
+      leaped the bridge unconsciously by night, when broken down, only
+      discovering their peril and their escape on the following day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Lidford to Tavistock was an easy ride, and we found this pleasant
+      town a place every way suitable for a Lord's Day rest. Outwardly, the
+      great charm of the locality is the meeting-place between the wildness of
+      Dartmoor and the rich cultivation of the valley; while some walks by the
+      river are of a tranquil and serene beauty, only as it seems to us to be
+      found in England, and to be enjoyed on the day of rest. Perhaps our
+      feeling is in a great measure due to association; but if so, we have to
+      thank association for one of the happiest evenings we have known. Next
+      morning we explored the remains of the Abbey&mdash;now put to
+      heterogeneous uses&mdash;a public library, a Unitarian Chapel, and a
+      hotel, with sundry ruins in the vicarage garden; then a short railway
+      journey carried us across the Cornish border to Launceston, where a short
+      climb through pretty pleasure grounds to the keep of the old castle on the
+      knoll that rises steeply from the town gave us a fine view, from the bulky
+      range of Dartmoor on the one side, to the craggy outline of the Cornish
+      hills on the other.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0100" id="linkimage-0100"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0147m.jpg" alt="0147m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0147.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Our object, however, was now to reach the coast; and, as a good test of
+      our pedestrian powers, already pretty well exercised in the course of this
+      charming: tour, we determined to walk over the hills in the direction of
+      the sea, knowing that even if our powers failed, some passing "van" would
+      take us up, and convey us in a primitive fashion to the nearest town. But
+      we persevered, and, when we had accomplished nine or ten miles of an
+      undulating, monotonous road, were rewarded by the first glimpse of the
+      Atlantic, with the cloud shadows lying afar upon the untroubled sapphire;
+      while, though no breeze stirred, there was a sense of freshness in the air
+      that encouraged us to press on to our journey's end. At length we reached
+      it, in a village to name which is to raise in the minds of those who have
+      visited it memories most delightful; while to the multitude it is and will
+      probably remain unknown. We will not call it Trelyon, after the fashion of
+      a popular novelist, who has given us some of the most charming
+      word-pictures of this scenery which our literature contains. Nor is it
+      unkindness to the happy few who already know Boscastle, and one delightful
+      homelike retreat from the world which it contains, to raise the veil a
+      little farther. That it is several miles distant from a railway station,
+      that there is no public conveyance to it but the "vans" already referred
+      to, that gas is a luxury unknown, are points in its favour to those who
+      think, like the Frenchman:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "How sweet, how passing sweet, is solitude!
+     But give me just one friend in my retreat,
+     To whom to whisper, 'Solitude is sweet.'"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      For society may be found at Boscastle&mdash;the society of the chosen few.
+      The place itself is unique. Through tiny meadows a streamlet flows swiftly
+      towards the sea, entering a fissure where the hills, swelling upward on
+      either hand, rise to towering cliffs, inclosing a harbour, up which the
+      tide surges restlessly to meet the stream, then as restlessly subsides.
+      Behind the cliff on the western side, up a broad cleft from the brink of
+      the rivulet to the hill-summit, runs the village, inhabited by a hardy,
+      independent, self-contained race of Cornish people, proud of their
+      scenery, as well they may be. The slate cliffs, in endless diversity of
+      craggy pointed form, skirt the sea, which ever chafes against their bases;
+      here and there a little inlet far below shows a surface of smooth white
+      sand, inaccessible from the land, or to be reached only by the surefooted
+      climber, familiar with every step. Broad grassy slopes crown the cliffs,
+      and every turn discloses magnificent views of sea and shore. Our walk
+      along the cliffs to Tintagel, starting from Willapark Point, the headland
+      that rises so grandly to the west of the little bay, was of an interest
+      which perhaps no other coast scene in England can fully match. First,
+      Forrabury Church was passed, with its silent tower; the bells once
+      destined for it lying, according to tradition, close by, at the bottom of
+      the Atlantic. The ship that conveyed them was nearing the port. "Thank God
+      for a fair voyage," said the pilot. "Nay," replied the captain, "thank the
+      ship, the canvas, and the fair wind." It was in vain that the pilot
+      remonstrated; but even while the ship was rounding the point a sudden
+      storm gathered, the vessel was dashed upon the rocky coast, all perished
+      save the pilot, and the bells sinking to the deep tolled solemnly, as if
+      for the fate of those who would not acknowledge God. Still, it is said,
+      when the storm rises high&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "'Those bells, that sullen surges hide,
+     'Peal their deep notes beneath the tide:
+     'Come to thy God in time!'&mdash;thus saith the ocean chime:
+     'Storm, billow, whirlwind past, come to thy God at last.'"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0101" id="linkimage-0101"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0150m.jpg" alt="0150m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0150.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Such is a specimen of the tales told at many a Cornish fireside. As we
+      pass on we feel more and more that we are in the country of legend and
+      song. The rolling uplands that stretch inland, with the deep vales and
+      furzy hollows that intersect them, are renowned as the realm of King
+      Arthur, the hero of British history and fable. Here, on the shore of the
+      Atlantic, he may have gathered his good knights around him, to stand with
+      them against the heathen invader; or it may be that here he was born,
+      according to the legend; while "the great battle of the west," in which
+      the hero disappeared, is said to have been fought at Camelford, in the
+      neighbourhood. Local legends are full of this royal name; and if, as some
+      will have it, King Arthur never existed, the universality of the tradition
+      is all the more remarkable. The impress of his memory and life is
+      everywhere. Of a little cottage maiden who guided us, we ask her name.
+      "Jinnifer," was the reply&mdash;an unconscious perpetuation of the name of
+      Guinevere, Arthur's Oueen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A lovely wooded glen breaks the cliff halfway to Tintagel, at the heal of
+      which the explorer will find a waterfall, in a wild forest ravine, both on
+      a somewhat miniature scale; but in the accessories of rock-hewn walks,
+      with clinging shrubs and mountain spring-flowers, watered by the dashing
+      spray, the dell was perfect. St. Nighton's Keive, or basin, as this
+      romantic nook is called, is a sudden and welcome change from the wild
+      sublimity of the rocks above, and the ceaseless thunder of the Atlantic.
+      But we must reascend; and soon, from our turfy path upon the height we
+      come into full view of a stupendous rock, standing a little way out to
+      sea, the home of myriads of seabirds that circle the rock with weird
+      cries, or, descending in flocks, skim the surface of the waves. They have
+      evidently learned to fear the gun, and to distrust mankind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Tintagel, now approached, is an irregular village, following the lines and
+      descents of the cliff. The church is on a wind-swept headland to the west,
+      and in its stormiest corner we found the grave and monument of Mr. Douglas
+      Cooke, the first editor of the <i>Saturday Review</i>. It was curious to
+      be reminded of the conflicts of literature at this meeting-place of
+      storms.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Tintagel Castle itself we approached by a path that looked perilous, but
+      was safe enough, descending from the cliff and rising steeply to a
+      promontory or peninsula of slaty rock, on which the ruins stand. These are
+      jagged, time-worn; little plan or order can be traced; such fragments of
+      building as still exist are no doubt of much more recent origin than
+      Arthur's time: the outward glory of the scene is all in the majestic sweep
+      and serried outline of the stupendous cliffs, with the long roll of the
+      sea breaking ceaselessly into billows at their base. The stillness is
+      unbroken, save for this ocean music, with the hoarse cry of sea-birds, and
+      the occasional bleating of the few sheep who pasture here. The sense of
+      isolation becomes at last oppressive, and we gladly retrace our steps to
+      the mainland.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Boscastle remains for a time our home: it is a never-ceasing delight to
+      climb to some nook of the cliffs, east and west, which inclose the little
+      harbour, or to stroll down to the little pier&mdash;a trying walk at
+      certain seasons, because of a chemical manure manufactory on the way&mdash;or
+      to ramble over the grassy slopes, inhaling the pure breezes of the
+      Atlantic. The Sunday spent in the neighbourhood was one of peculiar
+      delight. Wandering inland, we found a church, in the depths of a wood; the
+      congregation seemed to emerge, we knew not how, from deep bowery lanes and
+      by-paths among the trees; the service was none the less impressive for the
+      singing of birds without and the fragrance of spring blossoms stealing
+      through the open windows. The sermon, too, was appropriate, a tender,
+      practical exhortation to "delight ourselves in God." In the evening of the
+      same day, in the hush of twilight, taking our accustomed path over the
+      cliffs, we came upon a group of people, old and young, who had evidently
+      come thither after an early evening service at one of the chapels: they
+      were holding a prayer-meeting in the rocky nook&mdash;singing a hymn as we
+      approached, the burden of which was "Over there," while wistful eyes gazed
+      across the now purple sea, to the splendours which lingered in the west
+      after sunset, as though reminded by those tints of heavenly glory of the
+      land that is very far off. It was good for the stranger to pause by the
+      way, to join in that touching strain, and add his Amen to that Sabbath
+      evening prayer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0102" id="linkimage-0102"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9152.jpg" alt="9152 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9152.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Boscastle was so attractive that the rest of a long journey had to be
+      performed in haste. Bodmin, Truro, Redruth, were all rapidly passed, and
+      after climbing Carnbrea, near the latter town, and hearing some of the
+      marvellous stories connected with that giant hill, we took rail for
+      Penzance, anxious at least to visit St. Michael's Mount, the Logan Rock
+      and the Land's End. But what impressed us most, when we reached that last
+      and prettiest of Cornish towns, was the climate. We had believed it
+      spring; but here it was already summer! The last struggle with wintry
+      frosts was over, and the woods and fields were decked with all their
+      wealth of verdure; the air had lost its sharpness, and the rich colouring
+      of every part of the scene, from the golden furze upon the hills to the
+      ruddy lichen on the rocks, seemed to reflect the genial glow. Mount's Bay,
+      still and blue, was wonderful in its contrast with the Atlantic surges
+      that we had just left on the opposite shore. We thought of the words with
+      which Emerson begins one of his lectures: "In this refulgent summer it has
+      been a luxury to live."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      St. Michael's Mount, that extraordinary combination, geologically
+      speaking, of granite and clay-slate, remarkable, too, in its
+      correspondence with the much larger Mont St. Michel on the shore of
+      Normandy, is as interesting a place to visit as it is beautiful to look
+      upon. The views from its summit over sea and land are of surpassing
+      loveliness, and to enjoy them to the full it is not necessary to make the
+      hazardous attempt to sit in "St. Michael's Chair," the half, it is said,
+      of an old stone lantern, but overhanging the precipice in a very perilous
+      way. The villagers round the bay will tell you that the archangel himself
+      appears in this "chair" when a storm is raging, and firmly believe that he
+      is the guardian spirit of these seas.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Logan Rock, to which we next directed our steps, was disappointing in
+      more ways than one: the finest part of the cliff-scenery being the great
+      granite headland, which visitors are apt to pass unnoticed, in searching
+      for the natural curiosity, and in recalling the story of its fall and
+      reinstatement. There are, in fact, many "logan" or logging rocks in
+      granite districts, locally called Tolmêns; one formerly in the parish of
+      Constantine, between Penrhyn and Helston, being larger than this on the
+      coast, though without its magnificent accessories. Their peculiar position
+      is caused by the influence of air and moisture, wearing a fissure in the
+      rock, until a detached upper portion rests only on a small central base.
+      The wonder is in the bigness of the rock thus balanced, and in the
+      evenness of the process of disintegration all around: the vast majority of
+      boulders worn away by such agencies being of course over balanced, so as
+      to fall on one side.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0104" id="linkimage-0104"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0154m.jpg" alt="0154m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0154.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The mechanical restoration of this Logan Rock to its position, and the
+      appliances necessary to keep it in balance, give an artifical air to the
+      whole, and we were glad to turn away to the stupendous cliff scenery,
+      pursuing a path along the rocks to the Land's End, where every point has
+      its old Cornish name, and where the combinations of form and outline, if
+      less imposing than on the northern shore, are still very fine. The granite
+      of which this southern line of coast is composed is more rugged and
+      massive, if less variously picturesque, and the admirer of coast scenery
+      who has explored the two districts&mdash;from Boscastle to Tintagel, and
+      from the Logan Rock to the Land's End&mdash;has little' more to see or to
+      learn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great western promontory has been so often described that we need but
+      refer to our artist's delineation. The low descending promontory, from the
+      great cliff rampart behind, the narrowness of the "neck of land" between
+      "two unbounded seas,"&mdash;to adopt the phrase of Charles Wesley's
+      well-known hymn, here written,&mdash;the rocky islands near, on which the
+      lighthouse stands, and the ever-chafing restless surge, make up a picture
+      which fills the imagination in many after days.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0105" id="linkimage-0105"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8155.jpg" alt="8155 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8155.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      From this point "the vast expanse of ocean is at all times a grand
+      spectacle; it is terrible when a fierce westerly gale levels before it the
+      whole flow of the sea, driving forward one blinding sheet of foam, even to
+      the summit of the Land's End precipice; but it is yet more solemn in its
+      quieter mood, when, with little wind stirring, the vast billows,
+      propagated from some centre of storms far in the Atlantic, come slowly to
+      break on the rocks in measured cadences of thunder, the very types of
+      enormous power in repose."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But it was now time to turn our thoughts and our course homeward.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Very reluctantly, we left the south of Cornwall unvisited&mdash;the Lizard
+      Point, Kynance Cove, and the magnificent harbour of Falmouth, with its
+      flanking castles of Pen-dennis and St. Mawes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0106" id="linkimage-0106"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9155.jpg" alt="9155 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9155.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Then there were the great southern towns of Devonshire, with their
+      beauties manifold,&mdash;Plymouth and Torquay, with the lovely little
+      watering-places of Teignmouth and Dawlish, and stately Exeter itself. On
+      previous occasions we had visited them all, had spent long dreamy hours in
+      Anstey's Cove, then comparatively unvisited by excursionists, had tenanted
+      humble lodgings at Babbicombe Bay, before the villas were built, and had
+      sailed down the lovely winding Dart to Dartmouth, with its harbour among
+      the hills. The natural beauties are still there, though art has done much
+      of its best or its worst with them since those days. But we must now pass
+      them all by, only in imagination breathing their soft southern airs, or
+      casting hasty glances at one or other of them from the carriage windows of
+      the romantic South Devon Railway. For we have tarried amid the attractions
+      of the far west until the latest possible moment. At six in the morning we
+      leave Penzance; at six in the evening we are in London.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0107" id="linkimage-0107"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0156m.jpg" alt="0156m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0156.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0108" id="linkimage-0108"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0158m.jpg" alt="0158m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0158.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE ENGLISH LAKES
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0109" id="linkimage-0109"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0159m.jpg" alt="0159m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0159.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">O</span>NE great
+      attraction of the Lake district of Cumberland and Westmoreland lies in its
+      singular compactness. Equal beauties, and greater sublimity, may be found
+      elsewhere, but nowhere surely has such immense variety of natural charms
+      been gathered within the same space. A good pedestrian might pass from the
+      north of the district to the south&mdash;from Keswick to Windermere&mdash;in
+      a single day; or in even less time might make his way from east to west&mdash;from
+      Patterdale to the foot of Wastwater. True, in so hurried a journey he
+      would lose much; for weeks may delightfully be spent among the mountains,
+      in exploring their hidden nooks and wonders. But all that is most
+      beautiful is within the compass of a short tour; and an observation which
+      Mr. Ruskin has somewhere made about Switzerland is as true of this
+      enchanting country. He says that the loveliest and sublimest scenes are to
+      be witnessed from beaten roads and spots easy of access; that things as
+      wonderful are open to the view of the traveller who cannot leave his
+      carriage as to the Alpine mountaineer. There is no doubt an exhilaration
+      of mountain air only to be enjoyed on the heights; and for the view of
+      billowy uplands all around the spectator, like a Titanic ocean stricken
+      into stillness, the visitor to the Lakes ought to ascend Helvellyn; but
+      the views from the valleys, or from the roads that encircle the lower
+      slopes of the mountains, are incomparable. Familiar as is the road from
+      Ambleside to Grasmere, or, in another style of beauty, the drive to
+      Red-bank and High Close, or, in yet another, the ascent to the Castle Hill
+      at Keswick, they never lose their charm even to those who prefer to leave
+      these easy ways for the toilsome walk over the Stake or Sty Head Pass, or
+      up the shaley steeps of Scafell or the tremendous grassy slopes of
+      Skiddaw. The glories of this district are, in a word, for all who have
+      eyes to see and hearts to feel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0110" id="linkimage-0110"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0160m.jpg" alt="0160m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0160.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      First impressions have great effect, especially in the approach to
+      beautiful scenery; and there are at least three ways to the Lake district
+      from the south which compete one with another in their interest. The first
+      is by rail, northwards from Lancaster to Penrith, passing by the outside
+      or eastern edge of the fells which bound the mountain region. This journey
+      throughout is of wonderful beauty, especially where the broad grassy fells
+      rise steeply on one side of the line, and on the other the hill abruptly
+      descends to the river Lune, here little more than a mountain streamlet,
+      eddying and sparkling through wooded dells. From Penrith, a branch line to
+      Keswick passes in the latter part of its course through an exquisite glen,
+      watered by the streams that come down from the great Blencathara ridge,
+      with many a glimpse of picturesque crags clothed with fern, shrubs and
+      flowers jutting from the mountain's base. All this well prepares the
+      traveller for the glorious view that greets him when he emerges from the
+      station at Keswick, and looks forth upon the amphitheatre of mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another method of approach is by leaving the Lancaster and Carlisle
+      Railway at the junction for Kendal, so proceeding to the Windermere
+      terminus, situated on a height commanding a magnificent view of the upper
+      part of the lake. The suddenness with which this scene is disclosed, as
+      well as the completeness of its beauty, makes it to many the favourite
+      mode of access. It is also perhaps the most convenient, conveyances to
+      every part of the district being ready as the trains come in. The
+      traveller, however, should it be his first visit, will do well to go up to
+      Orrest' Head, behind the hotel, from which the whole of Windermere, with
+      its islands and the mountains beyond, form a truly enchanting prospect,
+      suggesting to the delighted spectator the wonders beyond.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0111" id="linkimage-0111"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0161m.jpg" alt="0161m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0161.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      But there is another way of entering this fairy region, by which its
+      beauties are not suddenly disclosed, but grow one by one upon the sight.
+      Still, perhaps, the unique and impressive character of the approach gives
+      this method of access the advantage over every other. So we say to every
+      reader who has not as yet visited the Lakes, Go by the over-land railway
+      along the edge of Morecambe Bay: and to those who have visited it by other
+      routes, Go again by this! The line crosses two estuaries, of the Kent and
+      of the Leven. When the tide is up, the effect of passing through a wide
+      expanse of sea rising to within a few feet of the embankment on both sides
+      is wonderfully striking; and at low water the great reaches of sand are
+      scarcely less impressive. Morecambe Bay, with its curving shore and many
+      inlets, is at all times beautiful, and the mountain ranges are seen dimly
+      in outline across its waters. At several points the railway embankment
+      seems to have effected a change in the sea-level; fields now fertile being
+      fringed on the side farthest from the bay by low cliffs, the bases of
+      which were evidently at no remote period washed by the waters. A vast
+      additional area might, one would think, be still reclaimed by engineering
+      skill without any serious cost. But we pass on to Ulverston, where we
+      change carriages, rather than proceed at present to Furness* and Coniston;
+      the direct entrance to the district being by a short recently-constructed
+      railway along the shore of the Leven up to the foot of Windermere. We pass
+      through a pretty wooded valley beside the bright, swiftly-descending
+      stream, and at the terminus, on the brink of the lake, find a little
+      steamer ready to pass upward. At first the charms of Windermere resemble
+      those of some fair broad river, flowing between ranges of low wood-crowned
+      hills; but the lake soon opens, and after we have passed Belle Isle,
+      opposite Bowness, any disappointment we may have felt at first yields to
+      unbounded admiration. The mountains at the head of the lake disclose their
+      grand outlines, appearing to change their relative positions at every turn
+      of the steamer; and some persons acquainted with mountain scenery in many
+      lands pronounce the view of these heights a little before sunset in summer
+      time to be unsurpassed in beauty. Wansfell Pike on the right, Fairfield in
+      front, and the Langdale Pikes in the distance on the left, with the broken
+      lines and broad uplands of Loughrigg Fells between, all invested with the
+      shadowy tints of evening, form a picture which in its tender aerial
+      loveliness seems ready to vanish while we gaze.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * There is another way of entering the district, by the
+     Furness Railway, and along the west coast, as far as the
+     station at Seascales or Drigg: thence to Wastwater, and
+     Wastdale Head. The traveller will thus plunge at once into
+     the wildest and most desolate part of the Lake country,
+     emerging into fairer scenes.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0112" id="linkimage-0112"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0162m.jpg" alt="0162m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0162.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      If the ways of entering this fair district are manifold, so are the method
+      and order in which its attractions may be viewed. These must be studied in
+      the guide books, and every traveller will shape his route for himself. In
+      this, much will depend on the time at command. We have spent three days
+      among the Lakes, and again a week, again a month; and while the shorter
+      period enabled us to see much, the longer did but prove to us that the
+      beauties were inexhaustible. Some visitors take Ambleside as their
+      headquarters, some Grasmere, some Keswick; others, happier in their
+      decision, have no headquarters at all, but range from place to place. As a
+      centre, we should prefer Grasmere; but every one will have his own
+      preference. It may almost be said that the Lake country has its
+      controversies and sects, with as many divisions of opinion on the question
+      which part is the fairest, as on more important matters. Some give the
+      palm to Ullswater among the lakes, an equal number to Denventwater, a
+      minority to Windermere, while there are those who prefer the silent and
+      gloomy Wastwater. Then who shall say whether the view from Helvellyn,
+      Skiddaw, or Scafell is the most marvellous in its beauty? Our advice is to
+      join none of the sects, to take no part in the controversy, to climb all
+      three of the mountains, and to visit, if possible, all the lakes! After
+      this our advice may be thought to savour of partisanship, when we say that
+      the visitor who wishes to know the full and perfect beauty of this region,
+      whether he enter from the north, or west, or south, must on no account
+      neglect to visit Keswick and Skiddaw.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0113" id="linkimage-0113"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0163m.jpg" alt="0163m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0163.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The lovely lake of Derwentwater is so near to the little town, there are
+      so many points, as Friar's Crag, Castle Crag, and Latrigg, accessible by
+      the most moderate walking, and the days' excursions from the place are so
+      various and delightful, that none will feel our counsel to be out of
+      place. Not to mention that, in the by no means rare or improbable event of
+      a rainy day, there are the pencil factories and the models of the Lake
+      district. The latter should be seen alike by those who have traversed the
+      region, and by those who have not; the former will be interested in
+      recognising the places that they have visited, and the latter, in making
+      out their intended tours.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great excursion from Keswick is one which is made by multitudes on
+      foot or in carriages; and for variety of charm within a comparatively
+      short compass its equal is hardly to be found. First the road leads
+      between the lake and an almost perpendicular crag, wooded to the summit.
+      Barrow Falls, in the pleasure-grounds of a mansion, may be visited on the
+      way; and few will omit to see Lodore, at the other end of the lake. The
+      charm here is that of a steep and rocky glen: rarely indeed does the
+      "water come down," at least in the summer-time, after the fashion
+      described in Southey's famous lines.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0114" id="linkimage-0114"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9164.jpg" alt="9164 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9164.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Then the grandeurs of Borrowdale unfold themselves, and Rossthwaite, in
+      the heart of this valley, is the very ideal of sequestered loveliness. The
+      road, turning to the right at Seatoller, climbs a long steep hill beside a
+      dashing torrent. A little way beyond the summit is Honister Crag, most
+      magnificent of inland cliffs; and so, amid wild rock-scenery on either
+      hand, we descend to Buttermere. The drive now discloses a grand
+      amphitheatre of mountains, whose summits form a rugged ever-changing line
+      against the sky. Soon the little inn is reached; but we would advise no
+      tourist so to occupy himself with the welcome refreshment, though
+      flavoured with that "best sauce," a sharp-set appetite, or even with the
+      ever-amusing "Visitors' Book," as to neglect rowing across Crummock Water,
+      when a walk of about a mile will take him to Scale Force, in its deep
+      rocky glen, the loftiest and noblest, as well as the most secluded of the
+      lake waterfalls. The drive back from Buttermere to Keswick, by the Newland
+      Valley, or the Vale of Lorton, with its old yew tree, is full of interest,
+      from the bold mountain forms ever in view, but has not the wonderfully
+      varied beauty of the Borrowdale and Seatoller route.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Everybody, as we have said, takes this drive: but there is an excursion
+      known to comparatively few, not a very long one, but "beautiful
+      exceedingly."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Should a morning at Keswick be unemployed, or if the question should arise
+      in the interval of wider explorations: "What shall I do to-day?" our
+      advice is to go up to Watendlath. This is a narrow upland valley,
+      extending from the head of the stream that supplies Barrow Fall, to that
+      which comes down at Lodore, then up by the latter to the tarn from which
+      it flows. It may be reached by one of two or three routes from below, and
+      after a short ascent the traveller finds himself, as it were, in the very
+      heart of the hills; a still and lovely world, above the beaten ways, with
+      nature's fragrance and music all around. We have suggested "a morning" for
+      the excursion, but it is still better to proceed leisurely; resting on
+      some turfy bank beside the path, in happy talk with congenial friends; or,
+      if alone, in quiet communion with our own souls and with Him who has made
+      the world so beautiful. In the earlier parts of the walk the occasional
+      views over Derwentwater, and down to Bassenthwaite, with Skiddaw towering
+      grandly in one direction, and the Borrowdale Mountains in another, are
+      magnificent; but in the heart of the glen, leading up beside the Lodore
+      torrent, these are gradually left behind. When the hamlet, and the tarn
+      with its bright rippling waters, at length are reached, and the torrent
+      has been crossed by a little rustic bridge, Ross-thwaite is descried
+      below, and may be reached by a steep descent; or the stout pedestrian may
+      strike boldly over Armboth Fall for Thirlmere at the foot of Helvellyn, or
+      if he please may climb still higher by the side of the Lodore stream until
+      he reaches Blea Tarn, high up among the fells.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Which of the three great mountains of the Lake district to choose in
+      preference for an ascent, it would be hard to say. On the whole, our own
+      associations would lead us to select Skiddaw; but if Helvellyn and Scafell
+      can also be ascended, so much the better. The distant views from Skiddaw
+      of the Solway Firth and the Scottish hills are very fine in clear weather;
+      but undoubtedly the wild magnificence of the mountain groups as seen from
+      Helvellyn is incomparable. The majesty of Scafell is the majesty of
+      desolation. Carlyle says:&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "From this centre of the mountain region, beautiful and solemn is the
+      aspect to the traveller. He beholds a world of mountains, a hundred savage
+      peaks&mdash;like giant spirits of the wilderness; there in their silence,
+      in their solitude, even as on the night when Noah's deluge first dried." *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * <i>Sartor Resartus.</i>
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      But of all mountain scenes, that which most abides in our memory is that
+      which was suddenly outspread before us one summer evening, a little before
+      sunset, in descending Skiddaw. The afternoon had brought swirling blinding
+      mists about our upward path; we had reached the summit with difficulty,
+      only to find ourselves enveloped on all sides in a white chilly sea of
+      cloud. Passing breezes and sweeping sheets of vapour had created the hope
+      that the mists would soon pass away; but it seemed in vain to wait, and we
+      began descending. Then as we reached a little knoll on the mountain's
+      side, the mist parted before us, and in an instant had rolled far back on
+      either side. Through its vast shadowy portal, it was as if Paradise were
+      unveiled! The atmosphere below was perfectly transparent and still; the
+      rays of the sun were reflected in crimson glory from the lake, so as in an
+      instant to bring to the mind of every member of our party the Apocalyptic
+      vision of the "sea of glass mingled with fire." The splendour lighted up
+      every mountain side where it fell, their crags were gold and purple, the
+      verdure of the upland slopes and thick woods, with the living green of the
+      woods and meadows, gleamed with a more than tropical brilliancy; and the
+      long dark shadows which everywhere lay athwart the scene only set in
+      brighter contrast the surrounding glory. The mists fleeted, vanishing as
+      they ascended the mountain side; the magnificence of colouring soon
+      subsided into quiet loveliness, then into a sober grey; the vision had
+      faded, leaving deep suggestions of those possibilities of beauty
+      everywhere latent in this fair creation, perhaps to be fully disclosed
+      when the new heavens and earth shall appear.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Space fails us now to speak of the rival beauties of Ullswater, where the
+      surrounding mountains are closer and grander than in any other part of the
+      district. Every competent pedestrian we would advise to walk to this lake,
+      from the border of Thirlmere, and over the summit of Helvellyn. Should
+      this be too great a tax on the tourist's powers, he will find the way by
+      Griesdale, a pass between Fairfield and Helvellyn, a very practicable walk
+      amid grand scenery. And when Ullswater is reached, what more charming nook
+      can there be than Patterdale, deep set among the hills? After a little
+      time spent there, we pant perhaps for more open scenery and a more
+      stimulating atmosphere; and there is the climb over Kirkstone Pass to meet
+      our desire, and to carry us back to beautiful Windermere, our first love
+      and our last, in all this haunted realm!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have pursued for the most part a beaten track, verily believing, as we
+      said at the outset, that here the choicest beauties are to be found. But
+      there is many a hidden little-visited nook where the superadded charm of
+      solitude seems to enhance all the rest; and we shall be indignantly told
+      by many that we have left the loveliest spots without a mention. What can
+      be more perfectly beautiful than the view's from the hill-sides above the
+      head of Coniston Water? What valley can vie, in its combination of lofty
+      cliff, green slopes, richly varied woodland, and gleam of rushing waters,
+      with the approach from Coniston to Little Langdale? The few who in another
+      part of the district follow the Liza down to Ennerdale will have it that
+      there is a wild beauty in this glen which gives it a charm beyond all
+      others. And so is it on the other side, with the scarcely larger band of
+      visitors to secluded Mardale and wild and lonely Haweswater. Then, as to
+      mountain passes, the climber sneers at Griesdale, calls Kirkstone a
+      "Turn-pike-road," thinks there is nothing worth an effort but the Stake,
+      between Langdale and Borrowdale, Sty Head, between Langdale and Wastdale,
+      or Black Sail and Scarf Gap, from Wastdale to Buttermere. And even these
+      passes are not Alpine. Go in a fault-finding mood, and you will discover
+      that the torrents are without volume, that the mountains lack elevation,
+      that the lakes are insignificant in size. But the man whose eye and heart
+      are open to the impression of beauty will be indifferent to these
+      comparisons, will rather rejoice in the limitations which permit every
+      element of grandeur and loveliness to be gathered into so small a space;
+      and for ourselves we may say that we have never appreciated the charm of
+      the English Lakes so truly as when we have visited them after a tour amid
+      the mightier wonders of Switzerland.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0115" id="linkimage-0115"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0167m.jpg" alt="0167m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0167.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      At Ambleside there is many a pleasant resting-place in which to recall the
+      pleasures and sum up the impressions of the journey, and to dwell, as many
+      love to do, upon the associations of one and another great name by turns
+      with almost every part of the district. First and foremost is Wordsworth,
+      the poet of nature;&mdash;the great "Lake Poet," only because nature here
+      is at her loveliest,&mdash;who from his home at Grasmere, and afterwards
+      at Rydal Mount, gave utterance, more richly, truly, deeply, than any
+      writer of his generation, of man's delight in the Creator s work. The
+      association of his name with his beloved lake country is imperishable.
+      Many years ago De Quincey wrote, with reference to Wordsworth's earlier
+      poems, "The very names of the ancient hills&mdash;Fairfield, Seat Sandal,
+      Helvellyn, Blen-cathara, Glaramara; the names of the sequestered glens&mdash;such
+      as Borrowdale, Martindale, Mardale, Wastdale, and Ennerdale; but, above
+      all, the shy pastoral recesses, not garishly in the world's eye, like
+      Windermere or Der-wentwater, but lurking half unknown to the traveller of
+      that day&mdash;Grasmere, for instance, the lovely abode of the poet
+      himself, solitary, and yet sowed, as it were, with a thin diffusion of
+      humble dwellings&mdash;here a scattering, and there a clustering, as in
+      the starry heavens&mdash;sufficient to afford, at every turn and angle,
+      human remembrances and memorials of time-honoured affections, or of
+      passions (as the 'Churchyard amongst the Mountains' will amply
+      demonstrate), not wanting even in scenic and tragical interest&mdash;these
+      were so many local spells upon me, equally poetic and elevating with the
+      Miltonic names of Valdarno and Vallombrosa." *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Works, vol. ii. p. 124.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0116" id="linkimage-0116"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9168.jpg" alt="9168 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9168.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The spell remains, though some of the aspects of the scenery have changed.
+      Grasmere, for instance, is no longer a "shy pastoral recess," but the
+      stream of life that daily pours through the valley cannot impair its
+      beauty. This of all the lakes possesses, when the wind is still, the
+      supreme charm of perfect stillness and transparency. We have seen it when
+      it was absolutely impossible to distinguish its richly-wooded banks, or
+      the island near its centre, from their reflection in the unrippled water.
+      The unclouded blue of the heavens was mirrored, as in fathomless depths.
+      It was a "sea of glass like unto crystal." It may be hoped that this
+      loveliness will be uninvaded by anything which would mar its perfection.
+      We know that Wordsworth pathetically protested against the invasion of the
+      railway; but on the height which the Windermere station occupies, at the
+      very portal of this beautiful land, it in no degree interferes with the
+      enjoyment of the scenery, while facilitating the access of multitudes who
+      could not otherwise share the delight. The railway station at the foot of
+      the lake, that on the border of Coniston, and even that at Keswick, are,
+      so to speak, outside the magic circle; but we can fully sympathise with
+      Mr. Ruskin and others who have employed such strenuous efforts to resist
+      every threatened or possible inroad. The very compactness of the region,
+      and the ease with which, when once reached, it may be traversed
+      throughout, might lead the most impatient traveller to be satisfied with
+      the existing means of swift access. When the border is gained, let him
+      proceed leisurely, and enjoy. If young, the stagecoach travelling, which
+      is here so common, may yield him an unfamiliar, though old-fashioned kind
+      of delight. To judge from our own youthful recollections, as well as from
+      the literature of a past generation, there was, in favourable
+      circumstances of scenery and weather, an exhilaration in such journeys
+      which never is or can be known in the rapid rush through railway cuttings,
+      and over high embankments, behind the "Erebus" or "Phlegethon," at the
+      rate of fifty miles an hour! And many an elderly or middle-aged man almost
+      unconsciously exults in the renewal of his youth in that grand coach-drive
+      from Windermere over Dunmail Raise to Keswick.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0117" id="linkimage-0117"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0169m.jpg" alt="0169m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0169.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      But we return for a moment to the personal associations of this region.
+      Southey has often been classed with Wordsworth as belonging to a school of
+      "Lake Poets." Nothing could be more erroneous, as De Quincey pointed out
+      long ago. It is true that these poets both lived by the lakes; but there
+      is no sense in which they can be described as of the same "school." In
+      fact, they are curiously unlike in many of their chief characteristics;
+      although they esteemed each other truly; and very noble are the lines
+      which Wordsworth has dedicated to the memory of his friend:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Wide were his aims; yet in no human breast
+     Could private feelings find a holier nest.
+     His joys, his griefs, have vanished like a cloud
+     From Skiddaw's top; but he to heaven was vowed,
+     Through a life long and pure, and Christian faith
+     Calmed in his soul the fear of change and death." *
+
+     * From the Epitaph on Southey, by Wordsworth, in Crosthwaite
+     Church, Keswick.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0118" id="linkimage-0118"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0170m.jpg" alt="0170m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0170.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Other names arise to mind. Close under Orrest Head was Elleray, once the
+      beautiful home of Professor Wilson, the "Christopher North" whose
+      "recreations" were to describe, in language of a rich and gorgeous
+      luxuriance which the present generation is scarcely able to enjoy, but
+      which the readers of a past age dwelt upon with rapture, the glories of
+      mountain, lake, and sky. Fox How and the Knoll, between Windermere and
+      Rydal Water, bring to mind two very different names, each of great
+      influence in their generation. At the former, Dr. Arnold, of Rugby, passed
+      his happy vacations; in the latter, Miss Harriet Martineau endeavoured&mdash;with
+      what success we attempt not here to judge&mdash;to work out her theory of
+      life. The name of Coleridge also connects itself with this region; not of
+      the philosophic teacher and wonderful talker, though we have known the
+      mistake to be made by people well informed. Samuel Taylor Coleridge, as
+      Carlyle says, "sat on Highgate Hill having left the lakes for the great
+      city, never to return." It was his son Hartley whose brilliant gifts, in
+      their fitful and broken splendour, have caused the name of Coleridge to be
+      remembered, and repeated with pitying affection, all through the Grasmere
+      Vale.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0119" id="linkimage-0119"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0171m.jpg" alt="0171m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0171.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      We turn reluctantly from this world of beauty, happy in the remembrance of
+      what we have seen and felt, happier perhaps that so much remains unvisited
+      in a region where every by-way and secluded dell has its own peculiar
+      loveliness, and that we may hope to return again and yet again to explore
+      its wonders. For the mountain climber, are there not Great Gable, Bowfell,
+      Fairfield, Pillar Mountain in Ennerdale, steepest of all, Blen-cathara,
+      otherwise Saddleback, with its unequalled view of Derwentwater, and
+      Coniston Old Man, with its grand prospects over land and sea? These six
+      are scarcely inferior in height to the imperial three,* whose names and
+      forms are most familiar. Then the Langdales should be climbed; one or
+      both, as a position below the loftiest in a mountain land affords the best
+      point of view from which to apprehend the grandeur of the surrounding
+      hills. And after the greater lakes have been duly visited, what wealth of
+      hidden beauty is there in those retired valleys, where rivulets suddenly
+      expand into fair still sheets of water, reflecting the mountains at whose
+      base they lie; and what lonely grandeur in the tarns high among the hills,
+      rarely visited by human foot, and, like Scales Tarn on Blencathara, so
+      surrounded by wild crags as hardly ever to admit the sunlight! Excursion
+      after excursion may be made, not only by the angler, but by those who have
+      no taste for such sport, to these lofty miniature lakes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Or, if the tourist delights in waterfalls, let him seek out Dungeon Ghyll
+      in Langdale, or go up behind the inn at Ambleside to Stock Ghyll, or stop
+      on his way through the valley to admire the two picturesque Falls at
+      Rydal, or ramble through Gowbarrow Park, near Ullswater, as far as Airey
+      or Ara Force, which "by Lyulph's Tower speaks from the woody glen," or let
+      him make a special excursion to Eskdale to see Stanley Ghyll, described by
+      some tourists as the most beautiful of all. The beauty of these cascades,
+      and of others less famed, arises not from the volume of water, but from
+      the picturesqueness of the glens in which they lie; these being, in almost
+      every case, deep and narrow fissures in the rock, covered with ferns,
+      mosses and shrubs in the utmost luxuriance. The varied tints of the rocks
+      and of the foliage by which they are clothed give richness of colouring to
+      the picture; and when the sunlight falls upon the dashing spray, and
+      rainbow tints hang over the fall, the surpassing loveliness of the scene
+      is even enhanced by the smallness of its scale.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It would hardly be possible to omit, in any notice of the Lake district,
+      however incomplete, a reference to the great uncertainty of the weather.
+      In the deeper valleys, especially, as Wastdale and Buttermere, the
+      traveller is often sorely disappointed by incessant rain. Yet even this
+      has its compensation in the increased translucency of the air, the beauty
+      of the mountain streams and cascades, with the incomparable splendours of
+      the parting clouds, when the sunlight has smitten them apart, and their
+      white trains vanishing up the mountain-side are as the robes of angels.
+      When the summer airs elsewhere are stifling, and the ground is parched,
+      the effect of the frequent mists and showers is fully seen. For then the
+      whole lake country is as green as an emerald; and, except in the deepest
+      valleys, the wearied brain and limbs are refreshed by stimulating mountain
+      airs. Such seasons perhaps are the best for a visit to the Lakes; but they
+      are beautiful in winter too, when the snows linger on the heights, and in
+      the early spring, when the greensward is carpeted with wild flowers, and
+      in the autumn, when the purple, gold, and crimson clothe the woods in a
+      royal array, while the withered Reaves elsewhere strew all the ground.
+      "Those only know our country," say the dwellers among the lakes, "who live
+      here all the year round." Be it so. It is good to carry in memory, into
+      the busy, more prosaic walks of life, the glimpse, if it be no more, of
+      all this beauty; and, after all, it is the "still sad music of humanity"
+      that thrills the soul more deeply than the music of the whispering woods,
+      or of the torrent down the mountain side. It was the Poet of the Lakes and
+      Mountains who closed one of the noblest of his odes by the words:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Thanks to the human heart by which we live,
+     Thanks to its tenderness, its joys, its fears;
+     To me, the meanest flower that blows can give
+     Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0121" id="linkimage-0121"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0174m.jpg" alt="0174m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0174.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE EASTERN COUNTIES
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0122" id="linkimage-0122"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0175m.jpg" alt="0175m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0175.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">J</span>ohn Foster
+      quaintly says that "the characteristic of genius is, that it can light its
+      own fire:" he might have added that it can provide its own fuel. Mere
+      talent is mainly dependent upon adventitious aids and favourable
+      circumstances, whilst genius can work with the clumsiest tools and the
+      most intractable materials. The magnificent scenery of Switzerland and the
+      Scotch Highlands has produced no artist or poet of the first rank. The
+      featureless landscape of Holland or of East Anglia sufficed for Cuyp or
+      Hobbema, or Ruysdael, for Gainsborough or Constable, or Old: Crome. The
+      quiet loveliness of Warwickshire was enough for Shakspere's genius. Milton
+      had seen the glories of the Alps and Apennines, but Buckinghamshire
+      furnished the subject-matter of <i>L'Allegro</i> and <i>Il Penseroso</i>.
+      The dreary flats of Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire cease to be dull and
+      prosaic in Cowper s verse.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The themes of Tennyson's earlier poems were drawn from the fens and meres
+      and melancholy swamps of Lincolnshire. The truth is, that the eye makes
+      its own pictures, and sees just what it has the power of seeing.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "O Lady! we receive but what we give,
+     And in our life alone does nature live:
+     Ours is her wedding-garment, ours her shroud!
+     And would we aught behold, of higher worth,
+     Than that inanimate cold world allowed
+     To the poor, loveless, ever-anxious crowd,
+     Ah! from the soul itself must issue forth
+     A light, a glory, a fair luminous cloud
+     Enveloping the Earth&mdash;
+     And from the soul itself must there be sent
+     A sweet and potent voice, of its own birth,
+     Of all sweet sounds the life and element."*
+
+     * Coleridge's Sybilline Leaves.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0123" id="linkimage-0123"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0176m.jpg" alt="0176m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0176.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      It must, however, be confessed that it would be difficult at the present
+      day to find poetry or beauty in the Fen country. The meres have been
+      drained, the swamps have been reclaimed. The profusion of aquatic plants
+      and wild-fowl has disappeared. Whittlesea Mere and Ramsey-Mere have been
+      brought under the plough. Even the picturesque old windmills have given
+      place to the hideous chimney-shafts of pumping stations worked by steam.
+      We may almost parody the famous chapter of Olaus Magnus on "Snakes in
+      Iceland," and say&mdash;there are no fens in the fen country. If we would
+      know what the fens were once like, we must, read some of Tennyson's
+      earlier poems, or better still perhaps, one of Kingsley's prose Idylls:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "A certain sadness is pardonable to one who watches the destruction of a
+      grand natural phenomenon, even though its destruction bring blessings to
+      the human race. Reason and conscience tell us, that it is right and good
+      that the Great Fen should have become, instead of a waste and howling
+      wilderness, a garden of the Lord, where
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'All the land in flowery squares,
+     Beneath a broad and equal-blowing wind,
+     Smell of the coming summer.'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      And yet the fancy may linger, without blame, over the shining meres, the
+      golden reed-beds, the countless water-fowl, the strange and gaudy insects,
+      the wild nature, the mystery, the majesty&mdash;for mystery and majesty
+      there were&mdash;which haunted the deep fens for many a hundred years.
+      Little thinks the Scotsman, whirled down by the Great Northern Railway
+      from Peterborough to Huntingdon, what a grand place, even twenty years
+      ago, was that Holme and Whittlesea which is now but a black, unsightly,
+      steaming flat, from which the meres and reed-beds of the old world are
+      gone, while the corn and roots of the new world have not as yet taken
+      their place.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0124" id="linkimage-0124"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0177m.jpg" alt="0177m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0177.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      "But grand enough it was, that black ugly place, when backed by Caistor
+      Hanglands and Holme Wood, and the patches of the primeval forest; while
+      dark-green alders, and pale-green reeds, stretched for miles round the
+      broad lagoon, where the coot clanked, and the bittern boomed, and the
+      sedge-bird, not content with its own sweet song, mocked the notes of all
+      the birds around; while high overhead hung motionless hawk beyond hawk,
+      buzzard beyond buzzard, kite beyond kite, as far as the eye could see. Far
+      off, upon the silver mere, would rise a puff of smoke from a punt,
+      invisible from its flatness and its white paint. Then down the wind came
+      the boom of the great stanchion-gun; and after that sound another sound,
+      louder as it neared; a cry as of all the bells of Cambridge, and all the
+      hounds of Cottesmore; and overhead rushed and whirled the skein of
+      terrified wildfowl, screaming, piping, clacking, croaking, filling the air
+      with the hoarse rattle of their wings, while clear above all sounded the
+      wild whistle of the curlew, and the trumpet note of the great wild swan.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0125" id="linkimage-0125"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9178.jpg" alt="9178 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9178.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      "They are all gone now. No longer do the ruffs trample the sedge into a
+      hard floor in their fighting-rings, while the sober reeves stand round
+      admiring the tournament of their lovers, gay with ears and tippets, no two
+      of them alike. Gone are ruffs and reeves, spoonbills, bitterns, avosets;
+      the very snipe, one hears, disdains to breed. Gone, too, not only from
+      Whittlesea but from the whole world, is that most exquisite of English
+      butterflies, <i>Lycaena dispar</i>&mdash;the great copper; and many a
+      curious insect more. Ah, well, at least we shall have wheat and mutton
+      instead, and no more typhus and ague; and, it is to be hoped, no more
+      brandy-drinking and opium-eating; and children will live and not die. For
+      it was a hard place to live in, the old Fen; a place wherein one heard of
+      'unexampled instances of longevity,' for the same reason that one hears of
+      them in savage tribes&mdash;that few lived to old age at all, save those
+      iron constitutions which nothing could break down." *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Prose Idylls, New and Old, by Rev. Charles Kingsley.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      One of the most characteristic walks in the Fen country is that from
+      Peakirk (St. Pega Kirk), a station on the Peterborough and Spalding line,
+      to Crowland. The road runs along the top of a high bank, raised so as to
+      be above the reach of the inundations. On either hand a flat and dreary
+      plain stretches to the horizon. It is intersected by ditches filled with
+      black stagnant water and fringed by aquatic plants, amongst which the
+      yellow iris is prominent. Here and there a farm-house, approached by an
+      avenue of pollard-willows, and surrounded by a few acres of
+      well-cultivated land, breaks in upon the monotony of the scene. Elsewhere
+      the vegetation is rank and coarse but abundant, upon which droves of
+      horses and cattle thrive. A perpetual chorus of croaking from innumerable
+      frogs in the marshes accompanies the pedestrian on his way, to which the
+      sweet notes of the sedge-warbler and other small birds form an exquisite
+      accompaniment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0126" id="linkimage-0126"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0180m.jpg" alt="0180m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0180.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      In the winter, when the fens are flooded and frozen over, the scene is one
+      of rare interest and excitement. The clear sharp ring of the skates on the
+      ice, the merry shouts of the skaters, the stir and bustle of a district
+      usually so dull and stagnant, the feats of agility and skill displayed by
+      a peasantry to skate a mile in two minutes, but without success, though he
+      is said to have only exceeded the two minutes by two seconds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0127" id="linkimage-0127"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8181.jpg" alt="8181 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8181.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The ordinary pace of a fast skater is one mile in three and a half or four
+      minutes." He who is so fortunate as to see one of the great skating-revels
+      of these eastern counties under the glowing light of a sunrise or a sunset
+      will not easily forget it&mdash;for the sunrises and sunsets of the Fen
+      country are of incomparable splendour. It is an error to suppose that the
+      dry pure atmosphere of Southern Europe is favourable to these magnificent
+      effects of colour. Some of the finest sunsets I have ever seen have been
+      when walking westward along Oxford Street on a frosty evening. The clouds
+      of smoke and mist hanging over the great city have become suffused with a
+      glory of crimson and purple and amber with which no Italian sky can
+      compare. So in the Fen country, the clouds and fogs driven inland from the
+      sea, and the humid vapours exhaled from the soil, glow with all imaginable
+      hues in the light of the setting sun. The cold colourless landscape
+      reflects the radiance and is tinged with the colours of the sky; the
+      skaters as they glide swiftly past through the golden haze seem like
+      actors in some fairy spectacle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0128" id="linkimage-0128"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0182m.jpg" alt="0182m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0182.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Before the reclamation of the fens, the swamps and meres which covered so
+      large a portion of the soil were the haunt of innumerable wild fowl, which
+      were the source of considerable profit to the fensmen. Of late years their
+      numbers have greatly diminished, but the London market is still largely
+      supplied from this district. Flat-bottomed boats screened by reeds so as
+      to resemble floating islands are fitted with heavy duck-guns, from a
+      single discharge of which dozens of birds sometimes fall. One of the best
+      duck-decoys remaining in East Anglia lies at a short distance from the
+      road midway between Peakirk and Crowland. A small mere a few acres in
+      extent forms the scene of operations. From this run eight ditches, or
+      "pipes," as they are locally called, ten or twelve feet wide at the
+      entrance, and about a hundred feet long, diminishing to a narrow gutter at
+      the end. They curve round so that only a small part of the whole is
+      visible from any point. They are inclosed by walls of matted reeds and
+      roofed over by nets. Tame ducks are trained to lead the way into the
+      mouths of the pipes, and are followed by the wild fowl. Little dogs, of a
+      white or red colour, enter the pipes through holes made in the reed
+      screens, gambol about inside for a minute or two, come out again, and
+      again show themselves a little higher up the pipe. The wild fowl, though
+      easily alarmed, are very curious and inquisitive. They swim or fly forward
+      to investigate this strange phenomenon till they have gone too far to
+      recede, when the net closes upon them, and the whole flock is taken.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0129" id="linkimage-0129"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0183m.jpg" alt="0183m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0183.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      In the days of yore, when this district resembled a great lake studded
+      with numerous islands fringed with willow groves, it was the seat of
+      numerous ecclesiastical establishments of great wealth and influence&mdash;Peterborough,
+      Crowland, Ely, Thorney, Spalding, Ramsey and others. The insulated sites
+      were favourable to the seclusion of the cloister, the patches of land were
+      exceedingly fertile, and the water abounded with fish and wild fowl. On
+      one of these Fen islands rose the great Abbey of Crowland, the ruins of
+      which come into view some miles before we reach it. Its foundation goes
+      back to Saxon times, and it was repeatedly sacked by the Danes. Turketul,
+      grandson of King Alfred, who through four successive reigns had rendered
+      important services to the nation by his valour in the field and his wisdom
+      in counsel, returning from a journey to the North, found the abbey a ruin.
+      Of the once flourishing community only three monks remained to tell the
+      story of the massacre of their brethren and the destruction of their abbey
+      by the invaders. They accommodated their illustrious visitor to the best
+      of their ability amongst the fire-scathed walls of the church, and
+      entreated his intercession with the king for assistance. The interview
+      made a deep impression on his mind, and, reaching home, he astonished his
+      royal master by avowing his intention to become a monk. Accordingly he
+      caused proclamation to be made by public crier that he was anxious to
+      discharge his debts, and if he had wronged any man would restore fourfold.
+      Resigning all his offices, Turketul repaired to the Fens, devoted himself
+      to the rebuilding of the abbey and the restoration of its fallen fortunes,
+      became abbot, and there spent the remainder of his days.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0130" id="linkimage-0130"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9184.jpg" alt="9184 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9184.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      A curious structure, known as Crowland Bridge, which stands in the centre
+      of the town, has greatly perplexed archaeologists, and given rise to
+      various legends. It consists of three semi-arches whose bases stand
+      equi-dis-tant from each other in the circumference of a circle and unite
+      in the centre. At the foot of one of the arches is a mutilated statue,
+      apparently holding an orb in the right hand. Local tradition declares that
+      three rivers ran through the three arches into an immense pit dug to
+      receive them, and that the statue represents Oliver Cromwell with a penny
+      roll in his hand! The most probable explanation of the remarkable
+      structure is that it was a high cross built to form a trysting-place for
+      the fens-men, who, when the Fens were flooded, might bring hither their
+      produce for sale in boats, and that the figure is St. Guthlac, the founder
+      and patron of the abbey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If East Anglia possesses little natural beauty, it is rich in historical
+      associations. Reference has already been made to the many noble ruins of
+      ancient ecclesiastical buildings throughout the Fen country. Their
+      traditional reputation has been handed down in an old rhyming legend:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Ramsey, the rich of gold and of fee,
+     Thorney, the flower of many a fair tree,
+     Crowland, the courteous of their meat and drink,
+     Spalding, the gluttons, as all men do think,
+     Peterborough the proud, as all men do say,
+     Sawtrey, by the way, that old abbey,
+     Gave more alms in one day than all they."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0131" id="linkimage-0131"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0185m.jpg" alt="0185m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0185.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      It maybe doubted whether in any part of the world four such cathedrals can
+      be found in the same compass as Lincoln, Peterborough, Ely, and Norwich.
+      And it is certain that with the single and doubtful exception of Oxford,
+      no such magnificent collection of collegiate edifices exists as those of
+      Cambridge. "That long street which, beginning from the Trumpington Road,
+      skirts the magnificent Fitzwilliam Museum and the Pitt Press; which passes
+      by ancient Peterhouse and quaint St. Catherine on one side; which is there
+      known as King's Road and fronts the glories of King's College, the Senate
+      House, the Library, and Caius College; which then in a darkening and
+      narrow street, almost a very gorge, skirts the old historic gateways of
+      Trinity and St. John's, and afterwards emerges past the chapel which is
+      the latest architectural glory of Cambridge, opposite the venerable round
+      church and near the new buildings of the Union&mdash;certainly in its long
+      broken wavering line, this street may enter into formidable competition
+      with the High Street of Oxford or any of the streets of the world.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0132" id="linkimage-0132"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0186m.jpg" alt="0186m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0186.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      There are, moreover, several distinct features in which Cambridge is
+      unsurpassable. The wide silent old court of Trinity, with its babbling
+      fountain; the glorious structure of King's College; above all, that
+      exquisite scenery, a composition made up of many varying beauties known as
+      the "backs of the colleges are separate features to which Oxford can
+      hardly offer a parallel. As an Oxford poet has said:&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Ah me! were ever river banks so fair,
+     Gardens so fit for nightingales as these?
+     Were ever haunts so meet for summer breeze,
+     Or pensive walk in evening's golden air?
+     Was ever town so rich in court and tower
+     To woo and win stray moonlight every hour?" *
+
+     * From Oxford and Cambridge, their Memories and
+     Associations. Religious Tract Society.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0133" id="linkimage-0133"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0188m.jpg" alt="0188m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0188.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Among the cities of East Anglia, Norwich claims special mention. Though a
+      local couplet declares that&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Caistor was a city when Norwich was none.
+     And Norwich was builded with Caistor stone."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0134" id="linkimage-0134"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8189.jpg" alt="8189 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8189.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Yet the <i>parvenu</i> upstart goes back to the time of the Roman
+      occupation of the island. It was the capital of the Saxon kingdom of East
+      Anglia, and for many centuries afterwards it held a prominent place in our
+      history. So early as the reign of Edward III. it was one of the great
+      centres of our manufacturing industry; the Flemish settlers having here
+      introduced or developed the woollen trade. In pre-reformation days it was
+      a stronghold of the Wyckliffites or Lollards, many of whom here sealed
+      their testimony with their blood. In 1531, Thomas Bilney was added to the
+      list of worthies who make up the Norwich Martyrology. Probably no other
+      provincial town in England has given so many eminent names to the
+      literature, science, and art of our country, from Sir Thomas Browne,
+      author of the <i>Religio Medici</i>, down to Harriet Martineau. Even apart
+      from these interesting associations, Norwich itself deserves and will well
+      repay a visit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0135" id="linkimage-0135"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9189.jpg" alt="9189 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9189.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Surrounded by wooded slopes and pleasant meadows and winding streams, its
+      streets full of quaint picturesque architecture, and dominated by its
+      noble castle and cathedral, few or none of our English cities offer a more
+      pleasing combination of urban and rural beauty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The tourist in search of the picturesque in East Anglia will do well to
+      include Yarmouth among his wanderings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Its surroundings indeed are as flat and uninteresting as possible. The
+      readers of David Copperfield will remember his description: "As we drew a
+      little nearer and saw the whole adjacent prospect lying in a straight line
+      under the sky, I hinted to Peggotty that a mound or so might have improved
+      it; and also that if the land had been a little more separated from the
+      sea, and that the town and the tide had not been quite so mixed up like
+      toast and water, it would have been nicer. But Peggotty said with greater
+      emphasis than usual, that we must take things as we found them; and that
+      for her part she was proud to call herself a Yarmouth Bloater."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0136" id="linkimage-0136"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0190m.jpg" alt="0190m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0190.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      But the town is a curious combination of English bustle and Dutch
+      quaintness. Its quay reminds the traveller of the Boomptjies of Rotterdam;
+      its "rows," only a few feet wide, with a narrow riband of sky overhead,
+      recall the narrow streets of Genoa; its vast fleet of herring-boats
+      discharging their silvery "harvest of the sea" at the wharves, offer a
+      spectacle almost unique in the world. Unlike Norwich and many other
+      neighbouring towns, Yarmouth has been the scene of no important event in
+      our history, nor has it contributed any illustrious name to our list of
+      worthies. A stained glass window in the parish church, however,
+      perpetuates the earthly memory of one whom Scripture declares shall be
+      "had in everlasting remembrance"&mdash;Sarah Martin, the prison visitor.
+      She was a poor dressmaker, without wealth or social position, earning with
+      difficulty a scanty subsistence by her needle, yet doing a work comparable
+      to that of John Howard or of Elizabeth Fry. The great lesson of her life
+      has been admirably inculcated by an eloquent American preacher:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0137" id="linkimage-0137"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8191.jpg" alt="8191 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8191.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      "Here, on a lowly bed, in an English village by the sea,&mdash;fades out
+      the earthly life of one of God's humblest but noblest servants. Worn with
+      the patient care of deserted prisoners and malefactors in the town gaol
+      for twenty-four years of unthanked service, earning her bread with her
+      hands, and putting songs of worship on the lips of these penitent
+      criminals,&mdash;Bible and Prayer-book in his feeble hand, saying, at the
+      end, 'I have been the happiest of men, yet I feel that death will be gain
+      to me, through Christ who died for me.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0138" id="linkimage-0138"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9191.jpg" alt="9191 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9191.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      "Blessed be God for the manifold features of triumphant faith!&mdash;that
+      He suffers His children to walk toward Him through ways so various in
+      their outward look&mdash;Sarah Martin; from her cottage bed, Earl Spencer
+      from his gorgeous couch, little children in their innocence, unpretending
+      women in the quiet ministrations of faithful love, strong and useful and
+      honoured men, whom suffering households and institutions and churches
+      mourn. All bending their faces towards the Everlasting Light, in one
+      faith, one cheering hope, called by one Lord, who has overcome the world,
+      and dieth no more! The sun sets; the autumn fades; life hastens with us
+      all. But we stand yet in our Master's vineyard. All the days of our
+      appointed time let us labour righteously, and pray and wait, till our
+      change come, that we may change only from virtue to virtue, from faith to
+      faith, and thus from glory to glory!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0139" id="linkimage-0139"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0192m.jpg" alt="0192m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0192.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0140" id="linkimage-0140"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0194m.jpg" alt="0194m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0194.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      ROUND ABOUT SOME INDUSTRIAL, CENTRES.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0141" id="linkimage-0141"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0195m.jpg" alt="0195m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0195.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">I</span>T is not to the
+      manufacturing districts of England that the traveller in search of the
+      picturesque would most naturally repair. To him they are often a region of
+      tall chimneys and squalid-looking habitations, with a canopy of smoke
+      above and black refuse of coal and iron on the banks of polluted rivers
+      below. Something of this impression is due to the economy of railway
+      companies, which, for the most part, have chosen to enter great towns by
+      their least attractive suburbs, where land is cheapest. Hence, it is not
+      from the carriage-windows of the train that Leeds or Sheffield,
+      Wolverhampton, Birmingham, or Manchester should be judged. The traveller
+      who will alight and explore may find a wealth of natural beauty which
+      would astonish him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nowhere, perhaps, is the contrast&mdash;due chiefly, no doubt, to
+      geological structure&mdash;more apparent than on the edge of the "Black
+      Country" in Staffordshire. From Dudley Castle the views are more curiously
+      contrasted than in almost any other part of England. By night the whole
+      country is lighted up on one side by the flames from the furnaces, which
+      cover the country for many miles. By day the din of hammers and the clank
+      of wheels, the roar of traffic and the shriek of the steam-whistles surge
+      up, through the pall of smoke, upon the ear. Descend, and between the
+      ironworks and coalpits the ground is unsightly with refuse heaps, while
+      its frequent inequalities, and the bending, tottering buildings, show it
+      to be honeycombed with mines. Vegetation is rare; what there is, is
+      blackened and stunted; black also are the outsides of churches, chapels,
+      schools. For inhabitants of such a district to gain any sense of natural
+      beauty, they must be able at frequent intervals to escape; and, happily,
+      to do this is within the reach of most. Railway communication with every
+      part of England is constant and easy; and to know the difference that a
+      few miles' journey will make in the scene, one has only to reascend to
+      Dudley Castle, where it lies in the midst of its fair wooded domain.. Look
+      from it to the north, east, or south, and all is smoke and flame; but turn
+      to the west, and though the traces of unresting labour are still
+      discernible, they soon give way to a country of richly diversified charm:
+      glimpses are obtained of the beautiful valley of the Severn, the Wrekin
+      towers grandly not many miles away, and the Malvern hills are dim and blue
+      in the distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In other manufacturing centres, if the contrast is not so marked, yet
+      there is a similar accessibility to many a sequestered and lovely scene.
+      The nearness of the wildest and grandest Derbyshire scenery to busy,
+      unromantic Manchester has been pointed out in a previous chapter; and the
+      neighbourhood of the great Yorkshire centres of industry is full of
+      picturesque beauty. A little way out of Leeds, for instance, where the
+      Liverpool Canal passes over an embankment near to the river Aire, may be
+      found the scene of one of Turner's most charming sketches; and though the
+      locality bears evident marks of the great industrial invasion, much of the
+      beauty still remains. In the same valley, not far off, are the stately
+      ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, while the broad reach of river that encloses it,
+      and the green meadows on the bank, with the low wooded heights on either
+      side of the valley, suggest the memories of a day when the surroundings of
+      the old ecclesiastical building were such as the monks most dearly loved;
+      while Esholt Hall, some few miles higher up the river, at the extremity of
+      a noble avenue of elm trees, was, in its time, a nunnery on low-lying
+      ground, circled by an amphitheatre of hills, in a vale even now rich and
+      beautiful, and which once must have seemed the very abode of tranquillity
+      and peace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is, indeed, no small boon to the artizans of Leeds, Bradford, and many
+      other crowded hives of industry in this part of England, that they are
+      within so easy a distance of scenes which, in natural beauty, may vie with
+      almost any in the land. Ivirkstall, as we have said, is close by the
+      former town; and its grounds are thronged on every holiday by busy
+      workers, who, whether intent or not on learning the appropriate lesson
+      from the mouldering walls and tower, are at least fully alive to the
+      advantages of fresh air, and of wide scope and range for healthful
+      amusement. The like may be said of other places, lying only a little
+      further off. There is Roundhay Park, for instance, one of the most
+      splendid domains in England, now, through the wise liberality of the Leeds
+      Corporation, the property of the people; while the public parks of many
+      other towns, as Bradford, Halifax, Barnsley, with Manchester, Liverpool,
+      Blackburn, gratify not only the instinct for recreation, but the desire
+      for beauty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0142" id="linkimage-0142"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0197m.jpg" alt="0197m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0197.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Or again, our traveller, in his pause at Leeds, may take the opportunity
+      of visiting Ilkley, with its fine open moorland, where the brain-wearied
+      worker may range at will. Then, a little way beyond Ilkley, lie the fair
+      woods and noble heights encircling Bolton Abbey, where the Wharfe comes
+      down, as yet unpolluted, from the moorland beyond; while the form of the
+      White Doe of Rylstone, or the memory of the ill-fated heir of Egremont,
+      seems yet to haunt the scene.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little further again, our astonished friend comes upon a <i>Clapham
+      Junction</i>, but it is amid the silence of the hills! Ingleborough, with
+      its marvellous caves, too little known, with its companion heights,
+      Pen-y-gant and Whernside, rise from the valley: and every path is full of
+      beauty, especially that which leads into the heart of Craven, where bold
+      limestone scars, deep glens, and upland moors, with one deep, lonely tarn,
+      dear alike to dreamers and to anglers, yield a succession of pictures, of
+      which, among their many charms, not the least is their easy accessibility
+      from the neighbourhood of clanking mills and inky streams. For Ilkley,
+      Bolton, Harrogate, Craven, Clapham may all be reached by the busy worker
+      of Leeds or Bradford, and much of their beauty enjoyed, in the leisure of
+      a summer Saturday afternoon, or on a "Bank holiday." He who would be free
+      from excursionists, with their loud talk, their demonstrative ways, their
+      baskets and their bottles, must go another time; but even in those
+      holiday-hours there is much to interest. The "trippers" may be an
+      interruption to the dreamer, an annoyance to the sensitive; but it is good
+      that people whose lives are usually so hard-pressed and monotonous should
+      have the means of ennobling enjoyment within easy reach; and though
+      occasionally there may be an element of roughness or even intemperance in
+      the recreation, we should be unjust were we not to record our impression,
+      from what we have often seen, that there is a decided improvement in these
+      respects, and that the free access to hill and moor, to fine scenery and
+      pure air, has its part in checking those vices which spring up like evil
+      weeds in the unwholesome dwellings of a crowded population.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0143" id="linkimage-0143"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0198m.jpg" alt="0198m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0198.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The "Excursion Season," no doubt, has its drawbacks in Lancashire,
+      Yorkshire, London, and everywhere else. There are holidays that depress
+      rather than invigorate: the spirit of self-indulgence may adopt the
+      pretext of needed recreation, and the Lord's day is too often heedlessly
+      or wilfully disregarded; but on the whole it is good that God's fair world
+      should be thrown open to all who can enjoy its beauties; and that, as we
+      have seen, some of its richest beauties should lie at the very threshold
+      of the hardest workers in the most unromantic scenes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0144" id="linkimage-0144"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8199.jpg" alt="8199 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8199.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The topic is almost inexhaustible; and the selection of places to be
+      visited in reasonable time, from these "centres of industry," would be
+      invidious to make. A little way beyond Leeds, as every one knows, lies
+      Harrogate, the high table-land where medicinal waters have for long
+      generations given to the place the fame of a true "city of Hygeia," while
+      we ourselves would still give the chief credit to the invigorating,
+      stimulating air, and to the almost inexhaustible interest of the
+      neighbourhood, occupying the mind of the visitor with a round of healthful
+      delights. The visit to Studley Park and Fountains Abbey will probably rank
+      among the chief of these. Again, as in the cases of Kirkstall and Bolton,
+      reverting to the past, we admire the taste and wisdom shown by the cowled
+      brotherhoods in mediæval times, in their choice of dwelling-places.
+      Something, indeed, of the beauty which we now see may have been the result
+      of their assiduous culture. It was part of their work to "make the
+      wilderness to smile;" but they had a rare faculty for lighting upon scenes
+      which, if not already beautiful, possessed an evident capability for
+      becoming so. At Fountains both nature and art seem to vie with each other;
+      and in the modern arrangement of the domain, the art may occasionally be
+      the more apparent. The artistic yields to the artificial; the ruins have
+      been maintained at the due stage of picturesqueness by careful oversight
+      and repair; and the carefully prepared "surprise," which awaits the
+      visitor at one stage of his progress through the grounds, is too
+      theatrical to permit even one of the fairest of pictures to have its full
+      effect. But, perhaps, all this is hypercritical, and, with every
+      deduction, this old Cistercian abbey is one of the most beautiful, as it
+      is one of the most complete mediæval monastic buildings in England. The
+      tower, unlike that of its sister abbey at Kirkstall, is little impaired by
+      the ravages of time, the plan of the edifice is easy to be traced; and the
+      light pillars and lofty arches of the Ladye Chapel give to the whole a
+      finishing touch of stateliness and grace. Then how pleasant to wander
+      through the noble avenues of Studley, to gaze upwards to the gigantic
+      spruce firs, or to climb the mound where linger the decaying forms of the
+      rugged yew trees&mdash;remnants, it is said, of the "seven sisters" that
+      spread their shade over the founders of the abbey, more than six hundred
+      years ago!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0145" id="linkimage-0145"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9200.jpg" alt="9200 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9200.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Still pursuing our way northwards, we reach the country of the Yorkshire
+      Dales, where the Swale, passing by Richmond, the Tees, on the edge of
+      Durham, and many smaller streams, descend from the eastern slope of the
+      Westmoreland moors. Both abound in wild and charming scenery: the upper
+      Tees-dale especially is singularly impressive. The river runs in its deep
+      rocky bed through alpine-looking green meadows, with clean whitewashed
+      cottages scattered here and there. Trees there are few or none, except a
+      small kind of fir; and in place of hedges, low stone walls mark the
+      boundaries of the fields. About five or six miles below its source, there
+      forms the striking waterfall "High Force," tumbling over a black basaltic
+      precipice, fifty feet high; while yet higher up the stream, where it
+      issues from a gloomy tarn on the edge of the Westmoreland moors,
+      descending for some two hundred feet over a steep, irregular staircase, so
+      to speak, of basalt, the weird wildness of the scene, in the midst of its
+      hilly amphitheatre, approaches sublimity. Caldron Snout is the quaint name
+      of this unique rapid, and the curious in geology, as well as the lover of
+      the picturesque, will be well repaid by a visit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But by this time we have wandered some distance from our manufacturing
+      centres. If, however, we have left the Yorkshire district behind, we are
+      approaching the yet more black and busy coal districts.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0146" id="linkimage-0146"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0201m.jpg" alt="0201m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0201.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Teesdale itself has two sets of associations, and the same stream, whose
+      rocks and dales are so romantic in its earlier course, becomes, by the
+      time it reaches Stockton, a broad and inky flood, and so passes by
+      Middlesborough&mdash;that wonderfully progressive seat of the iron
+      manufacture&mdash;to the sea. We now pass on from town to town along the
+      coast, each busier, blacker than the last, but with glimpses of rich
+      beauty between, while the city of Durham, as seen from the rail, is one of
+      the noblest views of rock and river, cathedral, castle, and town, on which
+      the traveller's eye has ever rested. This river is the Weir; then the Tyne
+      is reached, and Newcastle, the "capital of the north," is entered over its
+      splendid High-Level Bridge.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We can imagine no better route for a pedestrian excursion than the way
+      from Denton Hall to Thirlwall Castle&mdash;about thirty-four miles; or, if
+      the tourist wishes to see the whole, let him put Dr. Bruce's Condensed
+      Guide and an Ordnance map into his knapsack, devote a week to the
+      exploration, and proceed by leisurely stages from Wallsend, on the Tyne,
+      to Bowness, on the Solway, a distance of seventy-three miles and a half.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But our chief object in visiting these great centres of industry is to
+      explore their neighbourhoods. Few towns in England are better worth a
+      prolonged visit than Newcastle-upon-Tyne; but its attraction to us now is,
+      that we can, at so short a distance from its busy streets, place ourselves
+      amid rural scenes of surpassing interest, as well on their own account as
+      for their historical associations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0147" id="linkimage-0147"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0202m.jpg" alt="0202m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0202.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      First and foremost, of course, there is the Roman Wall, with its long line
+      of remains, still magnificent, and so varied from place to place, while
+      the scenery that surrounds them is so striking, that sea to sea classic
+      ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0148" id="linkimage-0148"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0203m.jpg" alt="0203m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0203.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      A stranger might suppose that, after the lapse of long centuries, all
+      these works, granting their existence once, must have disappeared. It is
+      not so: save in the western portion, there is scarcely an acre without
+      distinct traces; in many places all the lines sweep on together, parts in
+      wondrous preservation; while many of the recent excavations present
+      structures several feet high, giving one the idea of works in progress, so
+      fresh that we are tempted to think of the builders as away but for an
+      hour, perhaps to the noonday meal. To traverse the line of the wall is to
+      pass along one continuous platform, whence the visitor revels in a
+      succession of glorious panoramas.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Returning to the busy east coast, very charming is the transition from the
+      Tyne to the Coquet, loveliest of Northumbrian streams, as it flows down,
+      interesting glimpses into the past opened up at every stage. Few persons,
+      indeed, who have not visited the scene, have any notion of the variety and
+      value of the remains which have withstood the wear and tear of sixteen
+      centuries, during a great part of which period the wall was used as a
+      quarry by the dwellers in the district.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0149" id="linkimage-0149"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8203.jpg" alt="8203 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8203.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      In many places the traveller, especially if aided by some competent guide,
+      may discern the whole outline of the structure. It consisted of seven
+      parts, viz., the Roman Wall proper, comprising ditch on the extreme
+      northern side; (1) the military road; then the earthwork, consisting of
+      (2) a wall; then (3) a space more or less wide from thirty feet to
+      half-a-mile, middle of vallum, along of (4) a mound, or rampart, the
+      largest of three; (5) a second ditch; (6) another mound, the smallest; and
+      (7) yet another mound. The following section exhibits all in one view. Nor
+      is this all, at every three or four miles we have fortified camps of
+      several acres each, at every mile a castle, and between the castles
+      watch-towers. Moreover, there are roads and bridges, traces of villas,
+      gardens, and burial-places, making almost every inch from Thirlmoor, on
+      the verge of the Cheviots, at the foot of heathery hills and through
+      richly wooded vales, to Rothbury&mdash;already a famous place of resort
+      from the district, and evidently destined to become more frequented from
+      its surpassing beauty of situation, encircled by romantic hills, with the
+      bright river running swiftly between.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0150" id="linkimage-0150"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0204m.jpg" alt="0204m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0204.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Thence the Coquet descends in many a winding by scenes of the richest
+      sylvan loveliness to Warkworth, renowned for its hermitage, which is
+      still, as the old Percy ballad describes it, "deep hewn within a craggy
+      cliff, and overhung with wood." And so we reach the sea, where Coquet
+      Island, with its lighthouse, lies amid the gleaming waters, scarcely
+      suggesting, as we gaze upon it in the fair sunshine, how terribly the
+      storm sometimes there rages, or how those dark rocks are chafed by the
+      angry billows!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But for the full splendour of cliff and ocean scenery we journey still a
+      little northward, and come to Dunstanborough Castle. Here a dark ridge of
+      basalt rises in pillared form sheer from the sea, and in the words of
+      Alarmion, "the whitening breakers," surging with ceaseless thunder into
+      the caves which pierce the cliffs, "sound near,"
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "As boiling through the rocks they roar
+     On Dunstanborough's caverned shore."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0151" id="linkimage-0151"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0205m.jpg" alt="0205m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0205.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The view from the "Lilburn's Tower" in this ruined castle, commanding
+      landwards the broad purple moors, extending in many an undulation to the
+      rounded Cheviots, glimmering blue in the distance, and looking seawards
+      over the restless ocean, beating ever at the foot of the black columns,
+      while sea-birds are ceaselessly wheeling in mid air with shrill outcries,
+      not unfairly vies with the wild magnificence of Tintagel, as described in
+      our earlier pages.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two coast scenes are, perhaps, unequalled in the British Islands: the
+      difference is that, while the Cornish scene lies in far-away seclusion,
+      this of Northumberland is close by one of the chief lines of traffic, and
+      within accessible distance of crowded populations. Yet even Cornwall is a
+      great industrial centre. Its mining industries are never far away from us.
+      Its wildest cliffs are pierced by shafts and adits leading down, as in the
+      Botallack Mine, to labyrinthine passages far under the bed of the sea,
+      where the miners can hear overhead the rush of the waves and the grinding
+      together of the huge boulders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have now reached the limit of our purpose, which was to show how near
+      to the doors of the million is some of the most striking scenery of our
+      land. Else from Dunstanborough Castle we could have pursued our way
+      northwards at least as far as Bamborough Castle, not so much for the sake
+      of admiring its noble ramparts and towers&mdash;once a fortress, now a
+      temple of charity&mdash;or of gazing again upon the glories of cliff and
+      sea, as of looking out across the waters to those rocky isles which, in
+      our own time, have witnessed one of those deeds of unconscious heroism
+      which do honour to our nature. For it was from one of those sea-beaten
+      crags that, on the 5th of September, 1838, Grace Darling set forth upon
+      her errand of mercy amid the raging waters, to rescue the survivors of the
+      shipwrecked Forfarshire. "Her musical name," it has been said, "is the
+      burden of a beautiful story of that love of man which is the love of
+      Christ translated into human language and deeds." Four years after that
+      great exploit the brave and gentle maiden died of consumption, brought on,
+      it is said, by a visit to her brother, keeper of the lighthouse on Coquet
+      Island: but she has left among our island race an imperishable name. Let
+      us conclude these random rovings by a visit to her monument in Bamborough
+      churchyard. Her figure lies as it were in slumber, an oar upon her
+      shoulder, beneath a Gothic canopy, within sight and hearing of the waves.
+      On the bright day of our visit the waves were murmuring and sparkling far
+      below: the craggy islets in the distance were touched with sunlight, and
+      we turned away, reminded less of the heroism that braved the storm, than
+      of the heavenly home and the everlasting rest. "I saw a new heaven and a
+      new earth, for the first heaven and the first earth were passed away; and
+      there was no more sea."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0152" id="linkimage-0152"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0206m.jpg" alt="0206m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0206.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      SNOWDONIA AND SOUTH WALES.
+    </h2>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">S</span>ome of the holiday
+      excursions which live most pleasantly in memory, are those short "runs" of
+      three or four days, to the mountain or the sea, which, it may be, some
+      unexpected holiday has enabled us to take, or some "happy thought" has
+      suggested as likely to be beneficial to mind and body. The amount of
+      enjoyment that can be compressed into so brief a space of time is quite
+      wonderful, provided only the place of visit be wisely chosen, the days
+      long, and the weather suitable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In one such little tour, so full of interest that it is hard to believe it
+      to have extended only from Tuesday morning to Friday afternoon, we, some
+      years ago, made our first acquaintance with Snowdon. Starting from
+      Caernarvon before breakfast, we walked to Llanberis, by a road leading
+      gradually upwards beside a wild mountain torrent, till the lake from which
+      it issues was reached, and the impression of the mountain grandeur first
+      fully felt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ascent of Snowdon has been so often described, that we need only say
+      it was unexpectedly easy. The beauty of the path with which it began, up
+      the bank of a mountain torrent ending in a strange and lovely waterfall,
+      beguiled the first portion of the way, and the latter part opened up
+      continually such glorious views, that the fatigue was lightened, if the
+      progress was a little impeded, by long pauses of admiration. At length we
+      reached Moel-y-Wyddfa, "the far-seen summit," and were upon the highest
+      spot in England and Wales.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0153" id="linkimage-0153"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0208m.jpg" alt="0208m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0208.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0154" id="linkimage-0154"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0209m.jpg" alt="0209m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0209.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Of the near prospect the chief wonder, to us, was the number of lakes, or
+      llyns, visible. For this we were unprepared, and the endlessly diversified
+      outline of these gleaming pools contrasted strikingly with the dark
+      mountain masses amid which they lay. The distant views were at first very
+      clear&mdash;Skiddaw (so said our guide) in the north, the Isle of Man in
+      the west, appearing like a shadow on a sunlit sea, Cader Idris and
+      Plinlimmon in the south, with the valleys lying green among the hills, and
+      here and there the line of some sparkling stream, while the habitations of
+      man were dwarfed to insignificance, or indicated only by dim patches, as
+      of smoke hanging in the air. Suddenly a chilling breeze passed across the
+      mountain top, and we were glad to find shelter in one of the little huts
+      which crown&mdash;we will not say adorn&mdash;the peak. As the mists now
+      began to gather, it was judged time to descend. The path, little more than
+      eight feet wide, lay along one of the narrowest spurs of the mountain,
+      while on both sides are tremendous precipices. To walk over this path in
+      clear, calm weather would be a trial to the nerves; but now the mists were
+      seething and whirling below, ever and anon rapidly parting, so as to
+      disclose glimpses of bare rocks apparently rising out of an ocean of
+      cloud, or miniature meadows of sunny green at unknown depths, or,
+      strangest of all, leaden-coloured lakelets, each enclosed by its bank of
+      fog. It was a weird scene, and though the path itself was tolerably free
+      from mist, the sight of these abysses on either hand, suggesting the
+      consequences of a slip, kept us all very quiet, very wary in our steps;
+      and we were thankful when we reached the point where the mountain spur
+      expands into a broad, safe, though steep and rugged, hill. Here we
+      descended swiftly, and soon found ourselves upon the turnpike road to
+      Beddgelert, our destination.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This level dell, set in the midst of mountains, which rise on all sides,
+      clothed at their base with rich woods, and then towering upwards, bare and
+      rugged against the sky, surpassed all our expectations by the magnificence
+      of its environment. The faithful hound, so well known in the stories of
+      many lands, has here a tomb, in the very midst of the valley, overhung by
+      a group of willows. Perhaps the legend is but a myth; it exists, we are
+      told, in Persian, and in the dialects of India. The story as it stands is
+      not only affecting, but contains a noble lesson; and it was in no
+      sceptical spirit that we read Southey's fine ballad over again, at the
+      traditionary scene of the incident. We ended the day by a stroll up to
+      Pont Aberglaslyn, that most romantic of defiles, the only defect of which
+      is, that it is too short. The road leads on one side by the "blue
+      torrent," which dashes through the pass with headlong, tremendous force;
+      on the other by towering mountain sides, clothed with lichen and a scanty
+      covering of mosses and shrubs. A marked feature in these rocks is the
+      evident trace of glacier action, to which Dr. Buckland has called
+      attention by a memorandum in his own handwriting, framed and glazed, in
+      the hotel. The bridge at the extremity of the pass, carrying the old road
+      to Tan-y-bwlch, has been thus described by Miss Costello: "There, forty
+      feet above the river, hangs in air apparently, just touching the two
+      mountains, a one-arched bridge, clothed with a robe of ivy, whose festoons
+      wave to and fro, as if the action of her leap had disturbed the drapery of
+      some nymph, whose form had hardened into stone as she performed the
+      wondrous feat. Below, beyond, around, the waters rave and foam and rush,
+      and here for the first time I recognised the beautiful colour, familiar to
+      my eye in the Pyrenees, which has given the name of the 'Blue Pool' to
+      this lovely spot." The scene was one in which to rest and muse after the
+      exertions and excitements of the morning; the only disturbance of the
+      quiet being the pertinacity of the little sellers of spar and rock
+      fragments, or these failing, of woollen socks, with equal readiness to
+      sing us a song, if no purchasers could be found for their other wares! It
+      must in fairness be added that the song was "sweet and low," and
+      harmonised well with the now gathering twilight, and the sound of rushing
+      waters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0155" id="linkimage-0155"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0211m.jpg" alt="0211m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0211.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The next day's expedition must be more briefly narrated. Somewhat tired by
+      the mountain climbing, we were content with a quiet walk up Nant Gwynant,
+      descending by the eastern half of the Pass of Llanberis to Cape! Curig,
+      and thence, beside the river Lugwy, to Bettws-y-Coed. Two lakes, passed
+      soon after leaving Beddgelert, are of the most exquisite beauty, and the
+      views of Snowdon, opened up a little beyond them, are of splendour
+      unsurpassed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Reaching Pen-y-gwryd a little below the head of the Llanberis Pass, we
+      pursued a route of a totally different character to Capel Curig. For the
+      luxuriant beauty of Nant Gwynant we had now the sublimity of bare rock and
+      crag; but there was something, we must suppose, uncongenial with our mood
+      in the bleakness of the scene; at any rate, this part of the pass
+      disappointed us. We have since found that the true grandeur of the defile
+      is in the other, or western part, between Pen-y-gwryd and Llanberis. The
+      rest at Capel Curig was specially welcome, and thence there was no want of
+      interest in the route, on the bank of the romantic Lugwy. The Swallow
+      waterfall must by all means be visited, repelled as is the true lover of
+      nature by all those little arrangements that make the place a show&mdash;the
+      urchin who points out the locked gate, for fear it should be missed, the
+      keen-eyed dame with the keys, the guide to the torrent s brink, apparently
+      solicitous lest any visitor should discover for himself the chief points
+      of view, the miscellaneous guard of children, with a general expectancy of
+      coppers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0156" id="linkimage-0156"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0214m.jpg" alt="0214m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0214.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      All this we did not like; and yet nothing could well be finer than the
+      plunge of the river, with roar and foam, over the vast mass of rocks,
+      slanting in rugged, picturesque confusion from the summit to the foot of
+      the fall, and breaking the stream in its descent into numberless cascades
+      and tiny rapids. The picture is one of marvellous diversity, and when the
+      river is swollen by rain the rush and roar are tremendous.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our day's journey was nearly over, and another hours walk, or a little
+      mure, brought us to that "paradise of painters," the Royal Oak at Bettws
+      y-Coed. Happily there was room for us, though the inn seemed crowded by
+      artists&mdash;many of them men of world-wide reputation&mdash;who come
+      again and again to this fair valley, always to find something new in form
+      or colour, light or shade. The next day was spent in rambling about the
+      neighbourhood; and almost everywhere we found artists at work with easel
+      and umbrella. Pont-y-pair was to us as an old friend, so often had we seen
+      its semblance in exhibition-rooms and books of "landscape scenery." Few
+      subjects, indeed, could be more adapted to the painter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0157" id="linkimage-0157"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0215m.jpg" alt="0215m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0215.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      But if this bridge, with its many lovely points of view, struck us with a
+      sense of familiarity, we were startled, as well as delighted, by the
+      exceeding beauty of the Fairies' Glen. A tributary stream here comes down
+      to the Lugwy between high wooded banks, and over mossy rocks, which at
+      many points can easily be crossed; the course of the rapid crystal stream
+      for a long distance is almost straight, and the perspective from below is
+      singularly fine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The holiday, rich as it had been in delights, was now almost over, and the
+      last day was mainly spent in a water excursion, which a railway, since
+      constructed, has rendered less familiar, but which even yet we venture to
+      commend. The pretty little town of Llanrwst being passed, we pursued a
+      pleasant road between the river Conway on one side and bosky cliffs on the
+      other, as far as Trefriw, where a small steamer was waiting the turn of
+      the tide to proceed down the river to Conway town. The sail on a fine day
+      is one of the most charming of excursions, the scenery on both sides being
+      of much interest, and the quiet rest on board the steamer being very
+      agreeable after three days' walking and climbing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0158" id="linkimage-0158"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0216m.jpg" alt="0216m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0216.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      From Trefriw, we were told, a very short excursion, up to Llyn Geirionydd,
+      would have brought us to one of the very finest points of view in all
+      North Wales, the range of Snowdon, and the scarcely less imposing Moel
+      Siabod, being thence seen in all their majesty. But it is always at once a
+      regret and an alleviation, in leaving beautiful scenes, that much is left
+      unvisited&mdash;regret that so many fair scenes have been missed,
+      alleviation, because the very fact may form so good a reason some day for
+      revisiting the place! As it was, with some time at our disposal after
+      reaching Conway, we visited the splendid ruins of the castle, then went by
+      rail to Llandudno, and after a hasty glance at the promenade by the bay,
+      finished the memorable four days' visit to Wales by a bracing walk of six
+      miles, round the Great Orme's Head on the path overlooking the sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The holiday had been so successful, that on the next similar opportunity
+      it occurred to us to spend the few days at command in South Wales. We are
+      bound, however, to confess that the charm was felt to be inferior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Possibly we expected another Snowdonia, and so deserved to be
+      disappointed. Nature does not repeat herself, and though the heights of
+      Plinlimmon are commanding when attained, we do not recommend the traveller
+      whose time is precious to traverse the intolerably circuitous path, amid
+      bogs and morasses, which leads him wearily at last to the summit. The
+      fresh breeze, and the wide prospect from the mountain's top are, to some
+      extent, a compensation for the toil; while it is interesting to explore
+      the sources of some of the many rivers which descend from the mighty store
+      of waters embosomed in this hill&mdash;the Severn and the Wye being chief.
+      But the longing for the beautiful was unsatisfied until we reached
+      Pont-y-Mynach, the Monk's P>ridge; better known, perhaps, as "the Devil's
+      Bridge." The former name denotes the fact that the monks of Strata Florida
+      Abbey constructed the bridge: the latter, we suppose, expresses the simple
+      wonder of the rustics, who could not conceive the daring work as wrought
+      by any power less than supernatural. Why should they have taken for
+      granted that the power was evil? We presume that the explanation is to be
+      found in the sense of terror excited by the fury and the roar of the
+      torrent. There is an awe akin to joy: a solemn yet glad uplifting of the
+      soul, as at the sight of the starry heavens; and who could attribute the
+      splendours of the firmament to any but a beneficent Creator? But amid the
+      wilder scenes of this earth, there is not only the mere feeling of danger,
+      but a dread which oppresses the spirit&mdash;a "fear that hath torment,"&mdash;an
+      instinctive sense of sin, which has led men in such localities to imagine
+      a <i>malignant</i> spirit at work.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little way beyond the bridge are the falls of the Rheidol&mdash;a series
+      of cascades, perhaps the most picturesque in Wales, not from the mass of
+      water so much as from the magnificence of the narrow, rocky ravine, with
+      its wealth of foliage. Perhaps the charms of this fair glen, with the
+      comforts of the splendidly-placed hotel above, were heightened by the
+      recollection of the long morning among the morasses of Plinlimmon; but our
+      feeling as we sat at eventide watching the sunset, and listening to the
+      roar of waters, was to surrender all the rest of our brief excursion, and
+      to give ourselves there to the <i>dolce far niente</i> of three long
+      summer days!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      South Wales is so conveniently intersected with railways, that it is
+      almost too easy for the tourist to pass from point to point. The preceding
+      day, on a south-easterly slope of Plinlimmon, we had stood at the source
+      of the Wye, and the desire possessed us to trace the progress of that
+      river for awhile, to see if in its early meanderings it had the beauty
+      which we knew so well to belong to it in its later and more familiar
+      course. The excursion was not a disappointing one. It leads through some
+      of the most primitive of Welsh districts: Builth, which in due time we
+      reached, appeared quaint and attractive, and Talgarth, where our long walk
+      was finished, might have tempted us, under other circumstances, to a
+      longer stay, to explore the "Black Mountains," a wonderfully fine range of
+      hills, girt with woods, pierced by lovely glens, and extending in ranges
+      of lofty moorland for many miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0159" id="linkimage-0159"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8218.jpg" alt="8218 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8218.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      A short railway journey now brought us to Brecon, so nobly placed in the
+      midst of its mountain amphitheatre as to invite a longer stay: but we had
+      to hurry on, anxious to reach the far-famed Vale of Neath. A very wild
+      walk led upwards for many weary miles, as it seemed, from Brecon to Maen
+      Llia, the "Llia Stone," near which is the source of the Llia, one of the
+      streams whose confluence form the Neath. Descending rapidly, we soon came
+      to the point where the Llia is joined from the north-east by the
+      Dringarth, another confluent.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0160" id="linkimage-0160"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9218.jpg" alt="9218 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9218.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      At Y-strad-fellte, a little further on, the glory of the mountain vale
+      began to open out. We passed under the shadow of the crags to the east, as
+      far as to the spot where, at a break in the rocky rampart, the Hepste,
+      another tributary, hurries to meet the stream, forming a fine waterfall.
+      At Crag-y-Dinas, a huge limestone rock, commanding from its summit both
+      the upper glen and the lower valley as far as Swansea Bay, the beauty of
+      the scene is at its height. Hardly any combination of scenery could be
+      richer in its exquisite variety. The road now lay between these united
+      streams and the Neath proper, which soon is joined from the western side
+      by the Pyrrdin, up whose rocky glen we turned for the sake of its two
+      charming cascades, the "Lady's" and the "Crooked" Fall.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In fact, the whole neighbourhood teems with cataracts, many of exceeding
+      beauty, and a day might well be spent in exploring the rocky dingles,
+      through which the hurrying streams descend, until at Pont-Nedd-fechan,
+      "the Little Bridge of Neath," they meet and mingle in one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bridge is of one arch, thrown across the ravine near the point of
+      confluence; it is festooned with drooping ivy, which almost reaches the
+      surface of the stream, and in its secluded loveliness this little Welsh
+      Lauterbrunnen, a village of many waters among the hills, may fairly
+      compare with many scenes far better known to fame.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The route down the valley to the town of Neath and the port of Briton
+      Ferry, is rich in varied beauty. The river runs between the high road and
+      the railway, with, in some part of its course, a canal. The surrounding
+      hills are lovely in outline and richly wooded; and until we reach the
+      seats of industry near the port, the water, lying in long reaches, or
+      hurrying over its rocky bed, is crystal-clear. At a former time Briton
+      Ferry was lovely beyond almost any other seaside resort. The river, here
+      expanded to a noble breadth, flowed between lofty wooded cliffs to an open
+      bay. The surrounding hills were crowned with noble oaks, and the romantic
+      little village, protected from the north and east, had all the attractions
+      not only of its own exceeding beauty, but of a mild climate, and of air
+      exceptionally pure. All this is changed!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0162" id="linkimage-0162"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0220m.jpg" alt="0220m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0220.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Coal, copper, iron dominate the scene. The cliffs and the climate are
+      there, and Swansea Bay is beautiful in calm or storm: but the oaks have
+      fallen, the nooks and elens in the hills have become squalid in their
+      bareness, the streams are polluted, the air is murky; but the docks are
+      admirable, and the place is "rising rapidly." There is a divineness in
+      man's industry, as well as in nature's beauty.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "The old order yieldeth, giving place to new,
+     And God fulfils Himself in many ways."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      We hurry away from the coalfields to where Carmarthen stands high on Towy
+      bank, grandly overlooking the course of the river to the sea. Of the bay
+      named from this ancient capital, the most beautiful part, perhaps, is
+      where Tenby, from its rocky promontory, overlooks the sea. As we
+      terminated our little tour in North Wales at Llandudno, so here at Tenby
+      we bade farewell to the southern part of the Principality. But before
+      leaving there was time for one little excursion along the coast, superb
+      beyond all our expectation, especially for the first few miles, where the
+      mountain limestone fronts the sea with bold, cave-pierced cliff. Our
+      ramble terminated at Manor-beer Castle, one of the most extensive and
+      complete of feudal fortresses in Great Britain. Perhaps there is no ruin
+      of the kind in which the arrangements for residence as well as for defence
+      can be so clearly traced, and certainly there are few which more nobly
+      command the shore below.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But our brief excursion was over. Some of the most picturesque parts of
+      South Wales were, perforce, left unvisited&mdash;especially Tintern, that
+      loveliest of British abbeys. Yet much had been seen to quicken the sense
+      of beauty; while the glimpse of busy industry given us along the south
+      coast, had quickened our desire to learn something more of the great
+      population gathered by its docks and ports, its mines and furnaces. For it
+      is the human interest which, wherever we may travel, must gradually become
+      supreme, and nowhere more truly than in South Wales. The heroism often
+      manifested in the midst of lowliest toil was never more strikingly
+      illustrated than in a recent incident which has made the name of
+      Pontypridd a household word in England. All know the story of the
+      imprisoned miners, and the men who bravely volunteered to rescue them,
+      daring the peril of compressed air, inflammable gas, and the pent-up
+      floods of water. "Four men"&mdash;let the tale never be forgotten at
+      British firesides!&mdash;"from one o'clock in the afternoon of Thursday
+      the 19th of April, 1877, until three o'clock in the afternoon of the next
+      day, worked on amid all these accumulated dangers until the rescue of
+      their comrades was complete. Twenty-two others were only second to those
+      four men&mdash;eleven in taking an actual share in the work of cutting
+      through the barrier of coal, and eleven others in constant presence and
+      superintendence. It was an intense exercise of self-devotion, patience,
+      and deliberate courage&mdash;a concentration, as it were, of qualities
+      which could only be acquired by the habitual exercise of these qualities
+      in every-day life, and perhaps their cultivation through many
+      generations." Happily they were successful, and the nation feels it to be
+      but a worthy recognition of such heroism, that a new order of merit,
+      instituted to do honour to gallantry in saving life on land, has been
+      inaugurated by the gift of "the Albert Medal" to those Welsh colliers.
+      Never has decoration been better earned! "Not the least satisfaction,
+      however, of those who receive it ought to be, that they have been the
+      means of drawing public attention and public honour to the whole class of
+      brave and unselfish deeds of which they have furnished one of the most
+      conspicuous of instances. There are no signs that the struggle of
+      civilisation with nature will cease to demand its victims. The progress of
+      mankind still depends, and must long depend, upon the bravery and
+      unselfishness with which unknown perils are encountered; and, perhaps, as
+      science opens up further fields of experiment and investigation, still
+      bolder adventures may be demanded. It was but right that the stamp of
+      national honour should be formally placed upon all such deeds; and the
+      Welsh miners deserve the thanks, not merely of their comrades, but of
+      their country, for having established in public esteem a new and permanent
+      order of merit." *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * <i>The Times</i>, August 8, 1877.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0163" id="linkimage-0163"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0222m.jpg" alt="0222m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0222.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0165" id="linkimage-0165"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0225m.jpg" alt="0225m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0225.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">S</span>IR Walter Scott
+      somewhere speaks of the Isle of Wight as a "beautiful island, which he who
+      once sees never forgets, through whatever part of the wide world his
+      future path may lead him." Whether this description be over-coloured or
+      no, it is certain that there is hardly any spot of English ground so well
+      adapted for a ramble of three or four days. There cannot be a more
+      charming excursion than a cruise round "the Island," as inhabitants of the
+      neighbouring counties fondly call it, when the atmosphere is clear, and
+      light breezes stir the water, without raising it to roughness. The Solent,
+      with its richly varied shores, and its flotilla of white-sailed yachts, is
+      first traversed: then round the Needles we meet the open sea, gazing as we
+      pass by at the quaint, almost grotesque, forms of those pointed chalk
+      pillars, the evident relics of cliffs worn away by the action of the sea.
+      Scratchell's Bay, with its chalk precipices, is passed; and other bays,
+      with their richly coloured, variegated sands, excite new interest and
+      wonder. Then the Chines, or ravines in the cliff, diversify the outline;
+      and so we reach the Undercliffe, that line of coast, whose perfect
+      protection from the winter's cold, with the fresh purity of the
+      sea-breeze, render it almost unique as a residence for the consumptive.
+      Niton at one extremity, and Ventnor and Bonchurch at the other, with the
+      five miles between, offering a succession of views unsurpassed in beauty.
+      "The beautiful places," writes Lord Jeffrey, "are either where the cliffs
+      sink deep into bays and valleys, opening like a theatre to the sun and the
+      sea, or where there has been a terrace of low land formed at their feet,
+      which stretches under the shelter of that enormous wall like a rich garden
+      plot, all roughened over with masses of rock fallen in distant ages, and
+      overshadowed with thickets of myrtle and rose and geranium, which all grow
+      wild here in great luxuriance and profusion."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0166" id="linkimage-0166"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0226m.jpg" alt="0226m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0226.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      After leaving Bonchurch, Shanklin Chine, Sandown Bay, terminated on the
+      north by the magnificent chalk headland called Culver Cliff, or the Cliff
+      of the White Dove, terminate the most beautiful part of this little
+      voyage. After rounding one or two more headlands, Ryde comes into sight,
+      and loyal travellers begin to look out for Whipping-ham church tower, and
+      the woods and palace of Osborne; soon after passing which Cowes is
+      reached, and the excursion is over.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0167" id="linkimage-0167"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9226.jpg" alt="9226 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9226.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The interior of the island has many points of interest, but three or four
+      days are sufficient for their exploration. A most interesting excursion is
+      that to Newport and Carisbrooke Castle, so closely connected with the
+      annals of Charles I. The visitor to Blackgang Chine will probably come to
+      the conclusion that this and similar fissures in the chalk cliffs have
+      been extolled beyond their deserts. There are combes in Devonshire,
+      unknown to fame, far superior to either Blackgang or Shanklin, and at the
+      latter especially, the elaborate artificiality of the whole scene is a
+      little repellant, while the celebrated waterfall is commonly but a
+      trickling rill. Blackgang is finer as a chasm, but the cascade is equally
+      insignificant. The charm of "the Island" is, after all, in the climate,
+      the colouring, and the glorious sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0168" id="linkimage-0168"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0227m.jpg" alt="0227m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0227.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Few walks of richer or more luxuriant beauty can be found within the same
+      compass than that from Blackgang Chine to Ventnor. First we reach the
+      Sandrock Spring, a chalybeate fountain in a cliff; the water, it is said,
+      contains alum and iron in an unexampled proportion. There is a cottage,
+      hard by, displaying a few tumblers, but customers do not seem to be many.
+      As a spa, Sandrock is too plainly a failure; and for real invigoration to
+      health and spirits, we would rather try the pure ozone on the summit of
+      St. Catherine's Cliff, than imbibe any quantity of the chalybeate. Let the
+      visitor stay long and inhale the glorious sea-breeze. He will indeed have
+      pure air below, that is, unless the breezes, as is their wont sometimes,
+      are stirring the chalk in dust clouds&mdash;a kind of white simoom!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0169" id="linkimage-0169"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9228.jpg" alt="9228 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9228.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      But at the best, the air of the Undercliffe is soft and languid,
+      suggestive to the robust of delicate lungs; while yet those who are thus
+      afflicted cannot be too thankful for a shelter where the atmosphere is as
+      mild as it is pure, and the scene at every point, by land and sea, most
+      beautiful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We descend from St. Catherine's down to Niton, and thence pursue our way
+      by Puckaster and Mirables Lawrence, where the church was once accounted
+      the smallest in England (twelve by twenty feet in the interior), but is
+      now enlarged by the addition of a chancel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Improvement" has been direfully at work since first we visited this
+      little village and drank of the cool waters of "St. Lawrence's Well." The
+      white, well-kept road is more level than the old picturesque path; instead
+      of ivied cottages there are now shining villas with green blinds, walls
+      for hedgerows, and, worst of all, the gushing spring flows somewhere in an
+      inclosure to which there seems no access. It is a pity to have thus
+      modernised so rustic and lovely a spot. But the flowers are still there,
+      perfuming the air; and the myrtles and the fuchsias are not shrubs, but
+      trees, and the luxuriance of southern climes surrounds us. As we walk
+      along we speculate on the convulsions of nature that have prepared for us
+      this little paradise. The undulating ground at our feet is evidently
+      formed of vast masses of chalk and clay, which, at former periods, have
+      broken bodily from the face of the cliff, slipped forward, and sunk down.
+      The surface, disintegrated by aqueous and atmospheric action, has formed a
+      kind of irregular terrace, the soil of which is most favourable to
+      vegetation. The ground is now firm, the process of disintegration from
+      above seems almost arrested; but there are even yet memories of landslips
+      on a large scale, of which the traces are still visible.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0170" id="linkimage-0170"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0229m.jpg" alt="0229m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0229.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      There is one walk in the island which no tolerable pedestrian should omit&mdash;that
+      from Newport to Freshwater, or Alum Bay. Leaving the main road at
+      Carisbrooke, a footpath leads upwards through fields richly cultivated and
+      gay with wild flowers. The open down which forms the backbone of the
+      island is soon reached. Keeping along the ridge the tourist will for some
+      miles enjoy a scene almost unique in its beauty. The soft delicate curves
+      and undulations which characterise the chalk downs, and which the
+      unobservant traveller so often overlooks, may be seen in perfection.
+      Nestling in many a sheltered nook are farm-houses, hamlets, and churches,
+      embosomed in trees. Patches of fern, gorse, and heather diversify the
+      landscape. And far below, on either side, is the sea&mdash;on the right
+      hand the Solent, on the left the English Channel. After a while Freshwater
+      comes into view, with its | line of cliffs rising sheer from the waves,
+      and about half-a-mile inland the sheltered nook which has been made a
+      classic spot as the home of the Poet Laureate. His description of it will
+      be familiar to many readers.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Where, far from smoke and noise of town,
+     I watch the twilight falling brown
+     All round a careless ordered garden.
+     Close to the ridge of a noble down.
+     You'll have no scandal while you dine,
+     But honest talk and wholesome wine,
+     And only hear the magpie gossip
+     Garrulous under a roof of pine.
+     For groves of pine on either hand,
+     To break the blast of winter, stand;
+     And further on, the hoary Channel
+     Tumbles a breaker on chalk and sand."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      A couple of miles more and we reach Alum Bay and the Needles, spoken of on
+      a preceding page.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0171" id="linkimage-0171"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9230.jpg" alt="9230 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9230.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Half a century ago few contributions to our religious literature were more
+      widely and deservedly popular than Legh Richmond's "short and simple
+      annals of the poor." Though of late years they have lost something of
+      their popularity, yet many visitors to the island make a pilgrimage to
+      Brading, with which the name of the devout author is inseparably
+      connected. The grave of little Jane, the Young Cottager, is in the
+      churchyard here: that of the "Dairyman's Daughter," Elizabeth Vallbridge,
+      is at Arreton, three or four miles away towards the interior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here for the present our rambles must end.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0172" id="linkimage-0172"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8230.jpg" alt="8230 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8230.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      It is impossible to retrace them without feeling how very beautiful
+      England is. Some of her beauties are little known. Others are not
+      appreciated as they deserve. Many an obscure and unvisited nook has a
+      loveliness or a grandeur or a picturesqueness beyond that of the most
+      famous show-places. But the glory of our island is that so many of its
+      loveliest spots are associated with the memory of great names and noble
+      deeds. The glory of England is in its people; but its people may well, in
+      turn, exult and give thanks to God that He has given them so fair and
+      splendid a home.
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 6em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 45065 ***</div>
+  </body>
+</html>
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+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
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+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
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+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #45065 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/45065)
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+Project Gutenberg's English Pictures, by Samuel Manning and S. G. Green
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: English Pictures
+
+Author: Samuel Manning
+        S. G. Green
+
+Release Date: March 7, 2014 [EBook #45065]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ENGLISH PICTURES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger from page images generously
+provided by The Internet Archive
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ENGLISH PICTURES
+
+By The Rev. Samuel Manning, LL.D., and The Rev. S. G. Green, D.D.
+
+1889
+
+[Illustration: 0006]
+
+[Illustration: 0007]
+
+[Illustration: 0009]
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE:
+
+A British nobleman--so runs the story--when travelling in Switzerland
+was so impressed by the gloomy grandeur of one of the mountain passes,
+that he exclaimed, "Surely there is no other view like this in the world!"
+
+"I am told, my lord," said the guide, "that there is but one,"--naming a
+view in the Scottish I lighlands.
+
+"Why," replied the nobleman, "that is on my own estate, and I have never
+seen it!"
+
+The anecdote may be doubtful historically, but in idea it is true. _Non
+é vero, ma ben trovato_.
+
+The number of Englishmen who really know their own country is
+comparatively few; and no doubt there are motives quite independent
+of the love for natural beauty, which lead the hard-worked men of our
+generation to escape at intervals to as great a distance as possible
+from the scene of their daily occupations. The effort for this, however,
+often leads to yet more harassing distractions; and many return from the
+eager excitements of foreign travel more jaded and careworn than when
+they began their journey. Nor is it so easy to escape after all! The
+great event of the day at every Continental hotel is the arrival of _The
+Times_; and you are at least as likely to meet your next neighbour on
+a Rhine steamboat or at the Rigi Kulm, as in the valley of the Upper
+Thames, or at Boscastle or Tintagel.
+
+It is true that our rivers do not flow from glaciers, and our proudest
+mountain heights may easily be scaled in an afternoon; we have no gloomy
+grandeur of pine forests or stupendous background of snowy peaks; but
+there is beauty, and sublimity too, for those who know "how to observe"
+the earth, and sea, and sky: and in less than a day's journey, the tired
+dweller in cities may find many a sequestered retreat, where pure air
+and lovely scenery will bring to his spirit a refreshment all the
+more welcome because associated with the language, the habits, and the
+religion of his own home.
+
+The volume now in the reader's hand is intended to recall, by the aid of
+pen and pencil, some English scenes in which such refreshing influences
+have in the past been enjoyed. And, as every wanderer over English
+ground finds himself in the footsteps of the great and good, ample use
+has been made of the biographical and literary associations which these
+scenes continually recall.
+
+[Illustration: 0010]
+
+[Illustration: 0013]
+
+[Illustration: 0014]
+
+
+
+
+THE RIVER THAMES
+
+[Illustration: 0016]
+
+[Illustration: 0017]
+
+|THE Thames, unrivalled among English rivers in beauty as in fame, is
+really little known by Englishmen. Of the millions who line its banks,
+few have any acquaintance with its higher streams, or know them further
+than by occasional glances through rail way-carriage windows, at
+Maidenhead, Reading, Pangbourne, or between Abingdon and Oxford.
+Multitudes, even, who love the Oxford waters, and are familiar with
+every turn of the banks between Folly Bridge and Nuneham, have never
+thought to explore the scenes of surpassing beauty where the river flows
+on, almost in loneliness, in its descent to London; visited by few,
+save by those happy travellers, who, with boat and tent, pleasant
+companionship, and well-chosen books--Izaak Walton's _Angler_ among the
+rest--pass leisurely from reach to reach of the silver stream. Then,
+higher up than Oxford, who knows the Thames? Who can even tell where it
+arises, and through what district it flows?
+
+There is a vague belief in many minds, fostered by some ancient manuals
+of geography, that the Thames is originally the Isis, so called until
+it receives the river _Thame_, the auspicious union being denoted by the
+pluralising of the latter word. The whole account is pure invention. No
+doubt the great river does receive the Thame or Tame, near Wallingford;
+but a Tame is also tributary to the Trent; and there is a Teme among
+the affluents of the Severn. The truth appears to be that Teme, Tame,
+or Thame, is an old Keltic word meaning "smooth," or "broad;" and that
+Tamesis, of which Thames is merely a contraction, is formed by the
+addition to this root of the old "Es," water, so familiar to us in
+"Ouse," * "Esk," "Uiske," "Exe," so that Tam-es means simply the "broad
+water," and is Latinised into Tamesis. The last two syllables again of
+this word are fancifully changed into Isis, which is thus taken as a
+poetic appellation of the river. In point of fact, Isis is used only by
+the poets, or by those who affect poetic diction. Thus, Warton, in his
+address to Oxford:
+
+     "Lo, your loved Isis, from the bordering vale,
+     With all a mother's fondness bids you hail."
+
+The name, then, of the Thames is singular, not plural; while yet the
+river is formed of many confluent streams descending from the Cotswold
+Hills. Which is the actual source is perhaps a question of words; and
+yet it is one as keenly contended, and by as many competing localities,
+as the birthplace of Homer was of old. Of the seven, however, only two
+can show a plausible case. The traditional Thames Head is in Trewsbury
+Mead, three miles from Cirencester, not far from the Tetbury Road
+Station, on the Great Western Railway, and hard by the old Roman road of
+Akeman Street, one of the four ** that radiate from Cirencester, or, as
+the Romans called the city, Corinium. Here the infant stream is at once
+pressed into service, its waters being pumped up into the Thames and
+Severn Canal, whose high embankment forms the back-ground to the wooded
+nook which forms the cradle of the river. It is an impressive comment
+on the reported saying of Brindley the engineer, that "the great use of
+rivers is to feed canals." Half-a-mile farther down, and when clear
+of the great pumping-engine, the baby river issues again to light in a
+secluded dell, and now has room to wander at its own sweet will. The cut
+on the preceding page delineates its early course, and shows "the Hoar
+Stone," an ancient boundary, mentioned in a charter of King Æthelstan,
+a.d. 931.
+
+The river now receives a succession of tiny rivulets, which augment its
+volume and force until, near the village of Kemble, it is crossed by a
+rustic bridge,--"the first bridge over the Thames," as depicted for us
+in the charming volume of Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall, with its three narrow
+arches, and its sides undefended by a parapet, with the solitary figures
+of the labourer and his boy, wending their way home after work.
+
+     * "The Ouse, whom men do Isis rightly name."--Spenser,
+     Faerie Queen.
+
+     ** The other three were the Fossway, or "entrenched road,"
+     running to the north-east, the Ikenild Street or "road to
+     the Iceni," nearly due east, and Ermine or Irmin Street,
+     passing through Cirencester, north-west to Gloucester, and
+     south-east to Silchester. Akeman Street is a continuance of
+     the Fossway, and runs south-west to Bath. Its name probably
+     means, "Oak-man," or Forester.
+
+[Illustration: 8019]
+
+What a contrast with the _last_ bridge that spans the river, with its
+mighty sweep of traffic below and above!
+
+But we must dally yet among scenes of rural quietude. A few miles beyond
+Kemble, the Thames has acquired force sufficient to turn a mill. Hence,
+leaving the highway, and taking our path through pleasant meadows,
+we pass by one or two rural villages, and so to Cricklade, the first
+market-town on the Thames. And here a considerable affluent joins the
+stream--a river, in fact, that has come down from another part of the
+Cotswold Hills, with some show of right to be the original stream.
+
+[Illustration: 8018]
+
+This is the Churn (or Corin; Keltic "The Summit"), which rises at "the
+Seven Springs," in a rocky hill-side, about three miles from Cheltenham,
+and runs by Cirencester (Corin-cester) down to Cricklade. I he claim of
+the Churn is the twofold one, of greater height in its source than the
+traditional meadows and beside quiet villages: much, to say the truth,
+like other rivers, or distinguished only by the transparency of its
+gentle stream. For, issuing from a broad surface of oolite rock, it has
+brought no mountain débris or dull clay to sully its brightness, no town
+defilement, nor trace of higher rapids, in turbid waves and hurrying
+foam. It lingers amid quiet beauties, scarcely veiling from sight the
+rich herbarium which it fosters in its bed, save where the shadows of
+trees reflected in the calm water mingle confusedly with the forms of
+aquatic plants. Meanwhile other streams swell the current. As an unknown
+poet somewhat loftily sings:
+
+     "From various springs divided waters glide,
+     In different colours roll a different tide;
+     Murmur along their crooked banks awhile:--
+     At once they murmur, and enrich the isle,
+     Awhile distinct, through many channels run,
+     But meet at last, and sweetly flow in one;
+     There joy to lose their long distinguished names,
+     And make one glorious and immortal Thames."
+
+Of the little streams thus loftily described, the most important are the
+Coln and the Leche; as Drayton has it in his _Polyolbion_:
+
+     "Clere Coin and lovely Leche, so dun from Cotswold's plain."
+
+[Illustration: 9020]
+
+The confluence of these streams with the Thames at Lechlade makes the
+river navigable for barges; and from this point it sets up a towingpath.
+At this point also end may be seen--a distant glimmering circle--from
+the other. Then the canal pursues a level course for some miles, and
+descends about 130 feet to the Thames at Lechlade, having traversed in
+all a distance of rather more than thirty miles.
+
+Below Lechlade the river passes into almost perfect solitude. Few walks
+in England of the same distance are at once so quietly interesting
+and so utterly lonely as the walk along the grassy towing-path of the
+Thames. A constant water-traffic was once maintained between London and
+Bristol by way of Lechlade and the canal; but this is now superseded by
+the railway, and the sight of a passing barge is rare.
+
+[Illustration: 0021]
+
+The river after leaving Gloucestershire divides, in many a winding, the
+counties of Oxford and Berks. The hills of the latter county, with their
+wood-crowned summits, pleasantly bound the view to the south; Farringdon
+Hill being for a long distance conspicuous among them. Half-way between
+Lechlade and Oxford is the hamlet of Siford, or Shifford--one of the
+great historic spots of England, if rightly considered, although now
+isolated and unknown. For there, as an ancient chronicler commemorates,
+King Alfred the Great held Parliament a thousand years ago.
+
+     "There sat at Siford many thanes and many bishops,
+     Learned men, proud earls and awful knights,
+     There was Karl Ælfric, learned in the law,
+     And Ælfred, England's herdsman, England's darling,
+     He was King in England.
+     He began to teach them how they should live."
+
+Not far off is New Bridge, the oldest probably on the Thames. But it was
+"new" six hundred years ago. Its solid construction shows that it was
+once a great highway; while its buttresses, pointed up the stream,
+betoken the power of the floods which the careful draining of later days
+has done so much to moderate.
+
+A short distance farther, the Windrush flows down from the north, by
+Bourton-"on-the-water," Burford and Witney, to unite with the broadening
+river; then the Evenlode, which the traveller by the Oxford, Worcester,
+and Wolverhampton Railway so often crosses and recrosses in his journey.
+
+Throughout, the river is carefully adapted for the purposes of a
+navigation now little needed. The occasional locks and the frequent
+weirs break the level, and the latter especially--sometimes miniature
+rapids or waterfalls--add picturesqueness to the scene. An expert
+oarsman may descend them all with safety; but many prefer to lift the
+boat on to the bank and drag it down to the lower level. These are
+interruptions to the journey, which, on the whole, is very enjoyable.
+Should the tourist have time at command, he may diverge to the right
+hand or to the left, to scenes of rich beauty or historic interest.
+Cumnor Hall, a name familiar to all readers of Sir Walter Scott from the
+tragic fate of Amy Robsart, lies a little way to the right of Bablock
+Hythe Ferry; Stanton Harcourt a short distance to the left. At the
+latter place Alexander Pope once resided, in a tower of the old mansion,
+which time or reverence has spared, in the ruin of almost all the rest.
+A pane of glass, in one of the tower windows, bore an inscription from
+the poet's own hand. "In the year 1718, Alexander Pope finished here the
+Fifth Volume of Homer." The pane is now at Nuneham Courtney, the mansion
+of the Harcourts. At Bablock Hythe Ferry the traveller is scarcely four
+miles from Oxford by the direct road; but if he keep to his boat, which
+he will not regret, he will find the distance fully twelve. The detour
+leads him first past the lovely wooded slopes and glades of Wytham
+Abbey, then to the scanty ruins of Godstow Nunnery, with its memories of
+Fair Rosamond. But we must not linger now, though opposite to the ruins
+a charming country hostelry offers its attractions, and the trout are
+leaping in the stream; for we are on our way to Oxford.
+
+The impression which the first sight of this fair and ancient city makes
+upon the stranger is probably unique, in whatever direction he first
+approaches it, and from whatever point he first descries its spires and
+towers. True, of late years the accessories of the railway invasion, so
+long resisted by the University authorities, have given a new aspect
+to the scene; but nothing can quite destroy the stately dignity
+and venerable calm. The traveller who approaches by the way we are
+describing, receives the full impression. As he floats along the quiet
+surface of the river, the stately domes and towers come suddenly in
+sight, and the green railway embankment in the foreground scarcely
+impairs the antique beauty of the picture.
+
+Oxford is probably Ousenford--the ford over the Ouse or "Water." Its
+waters indeed are many, and almost labyrinthine; but we get clear of
+the river at Hythe Bridge, and care for awhile only to explore Colleges,
+Halls, and Libraries; pausing before the Martyrs' Memorial, to breathe
+the hope that "the candle" once lighted there may still brightly burn,
+while Keble College, farther on, is a memorial of one, who though of
+another school of thought from ourselves, has given musical and touching
+expressions tu the deepest thoughts of devout hearts.
+
+[Illustration: 0023]
+
+But to describe this wonderful city is beyond our present scope. Let us
+hurry down to Christ Church Meadows, where the Cherwell sweeps round to
+join the Thames; then across to the Broad Walk, past Merton Meadow and
+the Botanical Gardens, to Magdalen Bridge, where a splendid view of the
+city is again obtained; thence up High Street to the centre of the city,
+and down St. Aldate's Street to Folly Bridge, where boats of all sizes
+are in waiting. This bridge may appear strangely named, as a main
+approach to the renowned seat of learning.
+
+[Illustration: 9024]
+
+Various stories are told as to the origin of the name. Perhaps it may
+be from some tradition of Roger Bacon, who had his study and laboratory
+here, over the ancient gate. There was a saying, that this study would
+fall when a man more learned than Bacon passed under it; so that the
+name may be an uncomplimentary reference to the troops of students
+entering Oxford by this thoroughfare. But such speculations need nut
+hinder us. We are bound for London--a voyage of some 115 miles, though
+only 52 by rail. Many boatmen will prefer to take the train for Goring,
+saving six-and-twenty miles of water travelling, and avoiding the most
+tedious and on the whole least picturesque part of the journey.
+Still, in any case Nuneham must be seen, with Iffley Lock and Sandford
+Lasher--familiar names to boating men!--upon the way.
+
+[Illustration: 8024]
+
+Nuneham is a charming domain, scene of picnic parties innumerable, yet
+freshly beautiful to every visitor who can enjoy woodland walks and
+verdant slopes, with gardens planned by Mason the poet, in which art and
+taste have, as it were, only improved upon the hints and suggestions of
+nature; and breezy heights from which the prospect, if less extensive
+than some other far-famed English views, may surely vie in loveliness
+with any of them.
+
+The intending visitor must be careful to ascertain the days and
+conditions of access to the grounds; and in his ramble must be sure to
+include the old "Carfax" conduit, removed in 1787 from the "four ways"
+(for the "Car" is evidently _quatre_, whatever the "fax" may be) in
+Oxford, and set on a commanding eminence, the distant spires and towers
+of the city, with Blenheim Woods in the back-ground, being seen in one
+direction, and the view in another bounded by the line of the Chiltern
+Hills.
+
+[Illustration: 8025]
+
+When the oarsman has once left behind the wooded slopes of Nuneham, with
+the overhanging trees reflected in the silvery waters, he will find the
+way to Abingdon monotonous. He will perhaps be startled by seeing picnic
+parties in large boats, towed from the shore by stalwart peasants,
+harnessed to the rope. Let us hope that the toil is easier than it
+looks! On the whole, we do not recommend the long détour by Abingdon,
+although Clifton Hampden is charming, and Dorchester, near the junction
+of the Thame and the Thames--once a Roman camp, afterwards the see of
+the first Bishop of Wessex, but now a poor village--is well worth a
+visit. It is startling to find a minster in a hamlet.
+
+Probably, however, the antiquarian may be more interested in the remains
+of the Whittenham earthworks, which in British or Saxon times defended
+the meeting-point of the rivers. The Thame Hows in on the left.
+
+On the hill to the right is Sinodun, a remarkably fine British camp.
+The whole neighbourhood, so still and peaceful now, tells of bygone
+greatness, and of many a struggle of which the records have vanished
+from the page of history. Not far, however, from Dorchester in another
+direction is Chalgrove Field, where the brave and patriotic Hampden
+received his death-wound. His name, and that of Falkland, to be noticed
+farther on, awaken in these scenes now so tranquil the remembrance of
+the stormy times when, in this Thames Valley, were waged those conflicts
+out of which in so large a measure sprang the freedom and progress of
+modern England.
+
+At Dorchester we are still eleven miles by water from Goring; and though
+the angler may loiter down the stream, we must hasten on, though ancient
+Wallingford and rustic Cleeve are not unworthy of notice. At Goring the
+chief beauties of the river begin to disclose themselves.
+
+Ralph Waldo Emerson says of the English landscape, that "it seems to
+be finished with the pencil instead of the plough." Our fields are
+cultivated like gardens. Neat, trim hedgerows, picturesque villages,
+spires peeping from among groves of trees, cottages gay with flowers
+and evergreens, suggest that the landscape gardener rather than the
+agriculturist has been everywhere at work. If this be true of England as
+a whole, it is yet more strikingly true of the district through which
+we are about to pass. A thousand years of peaceful industry have subdued
+the wildness of nature; and the river glides between banks radiant
+with beauty: "The little hills rejoice on every side; the pastures are
+clothed with Hocks, the valleys are covered over with corn; they shout
+for joy, they also sing."
+
+Yet there is no lack of variety. The course of the river is broken up by
+innumerable "aits" ("eyots"), or little islands; some covered with trees
+which dip their branches into the stream, others with reeds and osier,
+the haunts of wild fowl; on others, again, a cottage or a summer-house
+peeps out from amongst the foliage. Sometimes these aits seem to block
+up the channel, and leave no exit, so that the boat seems to be afloat
+on a tiny lake, till a stroke or two of the oar discloses a narrow
+passage into the stream beyond. Sometimes a line of chalk down bounds
+the view, its delicately curved sides dotted over with juniper bushes,
+the dark green of which contrasts finely with the light grey of the
+turf. Then comes a range of hanging beech-wood coming down to the
+water's edge, or a broad expanse of meadow, where the cattle wade
+knee-deep in grass, or a mansion whose grounds have been transformed
+into a paradise by lavish expenditure and fine taste, or a village, the
+rustic beauty of which might realise the dreams of poet or of painter.
+The locks, mill-dams, or weirs with their dashing waters, give
+animation to the scene. Nor is that additional charm often wanting, of
+which Dr. Johnson used to speak. "The finest landscape in the world,"
+he would say, "is improved by a good inn in the foreground." True,
+there are no great hotels, after the modern fashion; but a series of
+comfortable homely village inns will be found, such as Izaak Walton
+loved, and which are still favourite haunts with the brethren of "the
+gentle craft." The landlord, learned in all anglers' lore, is delighted
+to show where the big pike lies in a sedgy pool, where the perch will
+bite most freely, or to suggest the most killing fly to cast for trout
+over the mill-pond; and is not too proud, when the day's task is done,
+to wait upon the oarsman or the angler at his evening meal.
+
+     * As we write, the following letter to the Times arrests our
+     attention; it is too graphic, as well as accurate, to be
+     lost:--
+
+     "I will not tell you where I am, except that I am staying at
+     an hotel on the banks of the River Thames. I hesitate to
+     name the place, charming as it is, because I am sure, when
+     its beauties are known, it will be hopelessly vulgarised.
+     Mine host, the pleasantest of landlords, his wife, the most
+     agreeable of her sex, will charge, too, in proportion as the
+     plutocracy invade us. I am surrounded by the most charming
+     scenery. Few know, and still fewer appreciate the beauties
+     of our own River Thames. I have been up and down the Rhine;
+     but I confess, taking all in all, Oxford to Gravesend
+     pleases me more. Herc, in addition to what I have described,
+     I am on the river's brink; I can row about to my heart's
+     content for a very moderate figure; excellent fishing;
+     newspapers to be procured, and postal arrangements of a
+     character not to worry you, and yet sufficient to keep you
+     _au fait_ with your business arrangements. What do I want
+     more? Prices are moderate, the village contains houses
+     suitable to all clashes, and the inhabitants are pleased to
+     see you. I can wear flannels without being stared at, and I
+     can see the opposite sex, in the most bewitching and
+     fascinating of costumes, rowing about (with satisfaction,
+     too) the so-called lords of creation. As for children, there
+     is no end of amusement for them--dabbling in the water,
+     feeding the swans, the fields, and the safety of a punt. We
+     have both aristocratic and well-to-do people here--names
+     well known in town; but I must not, nor will I, betray them.
+     On the towing-path this morning was to be seen the smartest
+     of our Judges in a straw hat and a tourist suit, equally
+     becoming to him as it was well cut.
+
+     "Let me advise all your readers who are hesitating where to
+     go not to overlook the natural beauties of our River Thames.
+     There are one or two steamers that make the journey up and
+     down the river in three days, stopping at various places,
+     and giving ample opportunity for passengers both to see and
+     appreciate the scenery.
+
+     "E. C. W."
+
+To describe in detail all the points of beauty that lie before us, would
+require far more space than we have at disposal; and a dry catalogue
+of names would interest no one. We have started, as said before,
+from Goring, where the twin village Streatley--bearing in its name a
+reminiscence of the old Roman road Ikenild Street,--nestles at the foot
+of its romantic wooded hill. The comfort of the little hostelry and
+the charm of the scenery invite a longer stay, but we must press on.
+Pangbourne and Whitchurch, also twin villages, joined by a pretty wooden
+bridge, once more invite delay. On the right, the little river Pang
+flows in between green hills; on the left, or the Whitchurch side,
+heights clothed with the richest foliage shut in the scene. The cottages
+are embosomed amid the trees; the clear river catches a thousand
+reflections from hillside, and sky; the waters of the weir dash merrily
+down; and the fishermen, each in his punt moored near mid-stream,
+yielding themselves to the tranquil delight of the perfect scene,
+are further gladdened by many an encouraging nibble. Surely of all
+amusements the most restful is fishing from a punt! Most persons would
+find a day of absolute idleness intolerable. But here we have just
+that measure of expectation and excitement which enable even a busy and
+active man to sit all day doing nothing.
+
+[Illustration: 8027]
+
+Into the question of the cruelty of the sport we do not enter; but its
+soothing, tranquillising character cannot be denied. For ourselves, our
+business is not to angle, but to observe. As we row past these grave
+and solemn men, absorbed in the endeavour to hook a dace or gudgeon,
+and recognise among them one or two of the hardest workers in London, we
+feel, at any rate, that the familiar sneer about "a rod with a line at
+one end, and a fool at the other," may not be altogether just.
+
+Passing a series of verdant lawns, sloping to the river's brink, we
+reach Mapledurham and Purley, on opposite sides of the river at one of
+its most exquisite bends. The former place is celebrated by Pope as the
+retreat of his ladye love Martha Blount; when
+
+     "She went to plain-work, and to purling brooks,
+     Old-fashioned halls, dull aunts, and croaking rooks."
+
+The latter was the residence of Warren Hastings during his trial, and is
+not to be confounded with the Purley in Surrey, where Horne Tooke wrote
+his celebrated _Diversions_, on the origin and history of words.
+
+The next halting-place is Caversham, sometimes magniloquently described
+as "the port of Reading." Here the Thames widens out, as shown in the
+view which prefaces the present chapter; the eel-traps, or "bucks,"
+extending half across the river. On the occasion of our visit to the
+spot, it was our intention to stop for the night at Caversham; but as
+the inn was crowded and noisy, we resolved to push on to Sonning. The
+evening was already closing in, and before we reached our destination it
+had grown dark. The trees stood up solemnly against the sky, from which
+the twilight had not wholly departed. Their shadows fell mysteriously
+across the river, rendering the task of steering a difficult one.
+
+[Illustration: 9028]
+
+At length the welcome lights of the village were descried through the
+deepening gloom; and we landed, having suffered no more serious mishap
+than running into an ait, which our steersman mistook for a shadow,
+in the endeavour to avoid a shadow which he mistook for the bank. Next
+morning, after a plunge into the clear cool water of the pool at the
+foot of Sonning Weir, a scamper round the village, a climb to the top
+of the tower for the magnificent view, and a hearty breakfast, we were
+ready for an early start, whilst the dew was yet on the grass, and
+the air had not lost its freshness. Here the Kennet, "for silver
+eels renowned," as Pope has it, flows in from the southwest, with its
+memories of the high-minded and chivalrous Falkland, who fell at the
+battle of Newbury, on the banks of this river. A little lower down the
+Loddon enters the Thames from the south, between Shiplake and Wargrave.
+The picturesque churches of these two villages were soon passed, and we
+entered the fine expanse of Henley Reach, famous in boat-racing annals.
+Here for many years the University matches were rowed before their
+removal to Putney. No sheet of water could be better suited to the
+purpose, and the change is regretted by many boating-men.
+
+[Illustration: 0031]
+
+About four miles below Henley, in one of the loveliest spots on the
+river, are the ruins of Medmenham Abbey, notorious in the latter half of
+the eighteenth century, as the scene of the foul and blasphemous orgies
+of the "Franciscans." The club took its name from Sir Francis Dashwood,
+its founder, and numbered amongst its members many who were conspicuous,
+not only for rank and station, but for intellectual ability and
+political influence. Its proceedings were invested with profound
+secrecy; but enough was known to show that the most degrading vices
+were practised, and the lowest depths of wickedness reached;--strange
+profanation of one of Nature's loveliest shrines!
+
+We are now approaching the point at which the beauty of the river
+culminates. From Marlow, past Cookham, Hedsor and Cliefden, to
+Maidenhead, a distance of eight or ten miles, we gladly suspend the
+labour of the oar, and let the boat drift slowly with the stream. As we
+glide along, even this gentle motion is too rapid, and we linger on the
+way to feast our eyes with the infinitely varied combination of chalk
+cliff and swelling hill and luxuriant foliage which every turn of the
+river brings to view:
+
+Woods, meadows, hamlets, farms,
+
+Spires in the vale and towers upon the hills;
+
+[Illustration: 8031]
+
+  The great chalk quarries glaring through the shade.
+
+  The pleasant lanes and hedgerows, and those homes
+  Which seemed the very dwellings of content and peace and sunshine." *
+
+     * Down Stream to London. By the Rev. S. J. Stone.
+
+The "castled crags" of the Rhine and the Moselle,--the "blue rushing of
+the arrowy Rhone,"--the massive grandeur of the banks of the Danube, are
+far more imposing and stimulating; but the quiet, tranquil loveliness of
+this part of the Thames may make good its claim to take rank even with
+those world-famed rivers. There is something both unique and charming in
+the dry "combes," or fissures in the chalk ranges, rapidly descending,
+and garnished with sweeping foliage of untrimmed beech-trees. The
+branches gracefully bend down to the slope of the rising sward; while,
+from the steepness of the angle, the tree-tops appear from below as a
+succession of pinnacles against the sky. Many a roamer through distant
+lands has come home to give the palm for the perfection of natural
+beauty to the rocks and hanging woods of Cliefden. That they are within
+an hour's run of London does not indeed abate their claim to admiration,
+but may suggest the reason why they are so comparatively little known.
+The mansion on the height, designed by Sir Charles Barry, is now in the
+possession of the Duke of Westminster.
+
+[Illustration: 9032]
+
+Maidenhead is on the other side of the river; Taplow opposite. The
+bridge between them--one of Brunei's works, will be noted for its
+enormous span; its elliptical brick arches being, it is said, the widest
+of the kind in the world. From this point, if the beauty decreases, the
+historical interest becomes greater at every turn. First we pass the
+village and church of Bray. The scenery here is of little interest; but
+it is impossible not to give a thought to the vicar, Symond Symonds,
+commemorated in song. Let it be noted, however, that the lyrist has used
+a poetic licence in his dates. The historian, Thomas Fuller, tells the
+story: "The vivacious vicar, living under King Henry VIII., Edward VI.,
+Oueen Mary, and Oueen Elizabeth, was first a Papist, then a Protestant,
+then a Papist, then a Protestant again. He had seen some martyrs burnt
+(two miles off), at Windsor, and found this fire too hot for his tender
+temper. The vicar being taxed by one for being a turncoat and inconstant
+changeling. 'Not so,' said he, 'for I always kept my principle, which is
+this--to live and to die the Vicar of Bray.'" The type is but too true
+to human nature, and not only in matters ecclesiastical. But instead of
+staying to moralise, we will notice with interest that in this church
+is preserved an ancient copy of Fox's _Book of Martyrs_, chained to
+the reading-desk, as in the days of Oueen Elizabeth. It is better to be
+reminded of "the faith and patience of the saints," than of the light
+conviction and easy apostacy of politic "believers;" and so the old
+church at Bray has taught us a refreshing and unexpected lesson.
+
+Soon the towers of Windsor are seen rising above the trees; then Eton
+College comes into view, with its
+
+          "distant spires, antique towers
+     That crown the watery glade."
+
+[Illustration: 0033]
+
+Perhaps the best view of the castle from the Thames is that from a point
+just beyond the Great Western Railway bridge. When the queen is absent,
+access is easy. St. George's Chapel, built by Edward IV., is the finest
+existing specimen of the architecture of that period; and the view from
+the North Terrace, constructed by Queen Elizabeth, is perhaps the most
+beautiful on the River Thames.
+
+A little lower down, and we are passing between Runnimede ("Meadow of
+Council"), where the barons camped, and Magna Charta Island, where the
+great charter of English liberty was signed; and a temporary struggle
+between king and nobles laid the broad foundations of English freedom.
+
+[Illustration: 9034]
+
+As we sweep round the bend beneath the broad meadow and the wooded isle,
+"while we muse the fire burneth,"--the ardour of grateful love to Him
+who has shaped the destinies of our beloved land, and has never from
+that hour withdrawn the trust then committed to the nation, of being the
+guardians and pioneers of the world's freedom. A multitude of thoughts
+and questionings throng in upon us, but we must not lose the opportunity
+of impressing on our memory the outward features of the scene. There is
+not much to see: if there be time to land upon the island, it will be
+as well to do so, and enter the pretty modern cottage there erected,
+containing the very stone--if tradition is to be believed--on which the
+Charter was laid for the royal signature.
+
+From Runnimede, it is but an easy climb to the brow of Cooper's Hill,
+with its far-famed view of the river, of Windsor, and its woods. Dr.
+Johnson speaks of Sir John Denham's poem, of which we have taken some
+lines as the motto to this chapter, as "the first English specimen of
+local poetry." Its subject, as well as its style, will preserve it
+from the oblivion to which the greater number of the poet's works have
+descended.
+
+Another Coin falls into the river, to the left, a little farther
+on--suggestive, in its name, of the Roman occupation; the "street" to
+the west here crossing the Thames by a bridge. "London Stone," a few
+hundred yards lower down, marks the entrance into Middlesex; then clean
+and quiet Staines----"Stones," so termed, perhaps, from the piers of
+the old Roman bridge, or, it may be, from the London Stone itself, comes
+into view: but if the traveller has time to spare, he will rather pause
+at Laleham, so well known to every Christian educator as the earliest
+scene of Arnold's labours.
+
+[Illustration: 0035]
+
+"The first reception of the tidings of his election at Rugby," we are
+told by his biographer, "was overclouded with deep sorrow at leaving
+the scene of so much happiness. Years after he had left it, he still
+retained his early affection for it, and till he had purchased his house
+in Westmoreland, he entertained a lingering hope that he might return
+to it in his old age, when he should have retired from Rugby. Often he
+would revisit it, and delighted in renewing his acquaintance with all
+the families of the poor whom he had known during his residence; in
+showing to his children his former haunts; in looking once again on his
+favourite views of the great plain of Middlesex--the lonely walks along
+the quiet banks of the Thames--the retired garden with its 'Campus
+Martins,' and its 'wilderness of trees;' which lay behind the house,
+and which had been the scenes of so many sportive games and serious
+conversations." *
+
+[Illustration: 9036]
+
+Chertsey, on the other side of the river, is next passed, the leisurely
+traveller having the opportunity, if he so please, of visiting the
+house of Cowley the poet, or of climbing to St. Anne's Hill, once the
+residence of the statesman Charles James Fox.
+
+Then, still on the right, the mouth of the Wey is seen, the pretty town
+of Wey-bridge not being far off. Towns and villages now multiply: the
+villas of city men begin to dot the banks, and the suburban railway
+station appears, with its hurrying morning and evening crowds. The
+chronicle of names now would be like the monotonous cry of the railway
+porter: "Shepperton; Walton; Sunbury; Hampton." But as yet we need
+not join with the throng. The "silent highway"--as the river has been
+called--is also a retreat. Still we can leisurely survey the charm,
+which, so long as the sky, the water, and the trees remain, no builder
+can efface, although he may try his best, or worst.
+
+A bend in the river between Shepperton and Walton is of historic
+interest, as there Julius Cæsar with his legions forced the passage of
+the Thames, and routed the British General Cassivelaunus. "Cæsar led
+his army to the territories of Cassivelaunus, to the river Thames,
+which river can be crossed on foot in one place only, and that with
+difficulty. On arriving, he perceived that great forces of the enemy
+were drawn up on the opposite bank, which was moreover fortified by
+sharp stakes set along the margin, a similar stockade being fixed in the
+bed of the river, and covered by the stream. Having ascertained these
+facts from prisoners and deserters, Cæsar sent the cavalry in front, and
+ordered the legions to follow immediately. The soldiers advanced with
+such rapidity and impetuosity, although up to their necks in the water,
+that the enemy could not withstand the onset, but quitted the banks and
+betook themselves to flight." * The name Cowey, or Coway Stakes, to this
+day commemorates the event.
+
+     * Stanley's _Life_ vol. i. p. 37. One of Arnold's Laleham
+     pupils, afterwards his colleague at Rugby, writes: "The most
+     remarkable thing which struck me at once in joining the
+     Laleham circle, was the wonderful healthiness of tone and
+     feeling which prevailed in it. Everything about me I
+     immediately felt to be most real; it was a place where a
+     new-comer at once felt that a great and earnest work was
+     going forward. Dr. Arnold's great power as a private tutor
+     resided in this, that he gave such an intense earnestness to
+     life. Every pupil was made to feel that there was a work for
+     him to do--that his happiness as well as his duty lay in
+     doing that work well. Hence, an indescribable zest was
+     communicated to a young man's feeling about life; a strange
+     joy came over him on discovering that he had the means of
+     being useful, and thus of being happy; and a deep respect
+     and ardent attachment sprang up towards him who had taught
+     him thus to value life and his own self, and his work and
+     mission in this world." September 23, 1872.
+
+[Illustration: 0038]
+
+     "Who calls the council, states the certain day.
+     Who forms the phalanx, and who points the way."--_Pope_
+
+[Illustration: 0039]
+
+Two or three miles farther, and just past Hampton village, on the left
+bank, the traveller will notice a little rotunda with a Grecian portico
+with a mansion of some pretensions in the wooded back-ground. The house
+was Garrick's residence, and in the rotunda there originally stood
+Roubiliac's famous statue of Shakspere, now in the British Museum.
+Bushey Park and Hampton Court next tempt us to the shore. Great names of
+history again rise to memory--Wolsey, Cromwell, Williams. But the charm
+of Hampton Court is, that its palace and gardens are free of access to
+the people; a privilege which, all the summer through, is appreciated
+by eager, happy throngs. But let us cross the river to the comparative
+solitude of the two Dittons--"Thames," and "Long." An _impromptu_ of
+poor Theodore Hook, lively and graceful, according to his wont, has led
+many a tourist in search of a holiday to this pretty neighbourhood, and
+the poet's memory is reverenced in the village accordingly. Here are the
+first and last verses:
+
+  "When sultry suns and dusty streets proclaim town's 'winter season,'
+  And rural scenes and cool retreats sound something like high treason--
+  I steal away to shades serene which yet no bard has hit on,
+  And change the bustling, heartless scene for quietude and Ditlon.
+  Here, in a placid waking dream, I'm free from worldly troubles,
+  Calm as the rippling silver stream that in the sunshine bubbles;
+  And when sweet Eden's blissful bowers, some abler bard has writ on.
+  Despairing to transcend his powers, I'll-ditto-say for Ditton."
+
+Then comes trim Surbiton with its villas, and Kingston--once, as its
+name imports, a town of kings. Por here were crowned several Saxon
+monarchs; is there not the coronation-stone in the market-place,
+engraven with their names? Teddington Lock, a little lower down, is the
+last upon the Thames; and here too the anglers of the river put forth
+their chief and almost their final strength. The mile from Teddington to
+Eel-pie Island off Twickenham will be a quiet one indeed, if the voyager
+interfere not with the sport of one or other of these gentry, and draw
+down their resentment accordingly. Strawberry Hill reminds us of Horace
+Walpole, literary idleness, sham Gothic, and _bric-à-brac_. We glance
+and pass on. Pope's Villa no longer exists; only a relic of his famous
+grotto remains; but a monument to the poet is in Twickenham Church,
+with an inscription by Warburton, setting forth that Pope "would not be
+buried in Westminster Abbey."
+
+Past wood-fringed meadows on either hand, the "Broadwater," now rightly
+named--sweeps on to Richmond, where we must ascend the far-famed hill,
+to gaze once more upon the finest river-view in Europe. A little
+farther down, on autumn days, off lsleworth, may be descried flights of
+swallows, preparing for their outward journey. "They arrive," writes the
+artist who has depicted the scene, "in a mass, at the same hour,
+without confusion, as it were in regiments, and in some of their oblique
+evolutions resemble a drift of black snow. At dusk they all sink down
+into the island or 'ait' opposite the church of Isleworth, where a large
+bed of osiers affords them in its slender wands a settling-place for the
+night."
+
+[Illustration: 0041]
+
+From this point, all Londoners know their river. The beauty of nature
+is no longer present, but a new sentiment of wonder and interest takes
+possession of us. We feel the stir and hear the roar of the great
+Babel. What were once quiet suburban villages are now but a part of
+the metropolis. Still, however, they retain something of the quaint
+picturesqueness of the last century. In many a nook and corner we
+come upon solid comfortable houses of red brick, where our
+great-grandmothers, over a "dish of tea," may have discussed the "poems
+of a person of quality," or "the writings of the ingenious Mr. Addison."
+
+[Illustration: 8043]
+
+These relics of the last century are rapidly disappearing.
+
+Cheyne Walk at Chelsea, which now forms so striking an object from
+the river, can hardly hold out much longer against the march of modern
+improvement, and will probably ere long share the fate of the Lord
+Mayor's barge, and disappear from view.
+
+The noble embankments which now skirt so large a portion of the London
+river, and the bridges old and new, afford every facility for the full
+study of the Thames in all its aspects. Yet those who only cross with
+the hurrying crowd miss half the picturesqueness of what many who
+have travelled far feel to be among the most picturesque city views in
+Europe. Wordsworth's sonnet, beginning--
+
+     "Earth has not anything to show more fair,"
+
+was written on Westminster Bridge! But then it was on an early summer
+morning, when the "mighty heart" of the city was "lying still," and the
+"very houses seemed asleep." The blue sky, unobscured by smoke, hung
+in the freshness of the dawn over the dwellings of men and the
+heaven-pointing spires. The night airs had swept away every city taint,
+and the atmosphere was pure as among the mountains or by the sea. The
+experiment is worth making still at the cost of an hour or two's earlier
+rising, to prove how exhilarating, fresh, and delightful the London air
+may be.
+
+Or perhaps the charm of the scene may be more deeply felt amid the
+mystery of night, when the clouds have dispersed, and but for some rare
+footfalls there is silence, and the countless lights stretch in long
+lines, reflected by the gently rippling waters, while even the bright
+glare of the railway lamps aloft only add colour and splendour to the
+gleaming array, and the steadfast stars hang overhead. By night or in
+early morning, perhaps through force of contrast, the full beauty of
+these London river scenes are felt. Or, to vary the impression, we may
+take boat, as did our fathers, from bridge to bridge, "from Westminster
+to Rotherhithe," or farther down the broadening stream, with the
+wealth of the world, as it almost seems, ranged on either hand in the
+close-crowded vessels or the stupendous warehouses. Every such excursion
+is a new revelation, even to minds accustomed to the scene, of what is
+meant by English commerce, and of the ties which connect us with all
+mankind. Yet there is much to remind us that the universal reign of
+peace has not as yet set in. Grim preparations for defence and war
+bespeak a nation prepared, if needs be, for strife. And as at length
+we reach Tilbury Fort, and glow under the influence of the invigorating
+sea-breeze, great memories rush in upon us of armaments once gathered
+here; to lead, as it seemed, the forlorn hope;--to attain, as by God's
+great mercy it proved, the triumphant victory, of British Protestantism
+and liberty.
+
+When King James I. threatened the recalcitrant corporation of London
+with the removal of the court to Oxford, the Lord Mayor, with scarcely
+veiled sarcasm, replied, "May it please your Majesty, of your grace, not
+to take away the Thames too!" If the Upper Thames awakens our admiration
+by its loveliness, the Lower Thames inspires us with wonder and almost
+awe at the boundless wealth and world-wide commerce which it bears upon
+its ample bosom. Other rivers may vie with it in beauty. In far-reaching
+influence it stands alone. As we sail through its forest of masts, or
+follow its course down to the sea, we feel that we are surrounded by
+influences which stretch to the very ends of the earth. The stream whose
+course we have traced from the tiny rivulet in Trewsbury Mead has become
+the channel of communications which, for good or evil, are affecting
+every nation under heaven. May He who has endowed us with such wealth
+and power lead us to hold them both under a deep sense of responsibility
+to Him who gave them!--"Then shall our peace flow like a river, and our
+righteousness as the waves of the sea."
+
+
+
+
+SOUTH-EASTERN RAMBLES
+
+[Illustration: 0046]
+
+|HE is a benefactor to his species who makes two blades of corn grow
+where only one grew before." The substantial truth of the aphorism none
+will question; vet it would be a doubtful benefit if all our waste
+lands were reclaimed and brought under the plough. Enclosure Acts, by
+extending the area of our productive soil, have increased the resources
+of the country and the food of the people. But the total absorption into
+cultivated farms of heath, forest, and woodland would be to purchase the
+utilitarian advantage at too high a price.
+
+The open commons of Surrey and the rolling downs of Sussex are, in their
+way, of a beauty unsurpassed. Both are chiefly due to the great chalk
+formation, which comes down in a south-westerly direction from the
+eastern counties, breaks into the Chiltern Hills, extends over the
+greater part of Wiltshire, Dorsetshire, and Hampshire; and in the east
+of the last-named county becomes separated into two branches; one,
+the "North Downs," running almost due east to the North Foreland
+and Shakespere's Cliff; the other, the "South Downs," pursuing a
+south-easterly direction to Beachy Head. In their long and undulating
+course, they form innumerable combinations of picturesque beauty. Places
+elsewhere, well known and deservedly famous, are rivalled in loveliness
+by many a sequestered scene in the line of the lower chalk country,
+of which few but the thinly-scattered inhabitants, and now and then an
+unconventional tourist, have ever heard.
+
+[Illustration: 0048]
+
+The charm of these lines of rolling upland is much enhanced by the great
+rough plain which they inclose--"the Weald" (i.e. Forest), as it is
+termed--extending in an irregular triangle from the point where the
+Downs diverge to the British Channel. Geologists have framed many
+theories as to the formation of the Weald. It belongs to the Oolite
+formation below the chalk; it is the uppermost member of that formation,
+and was a deposit of sands and clays in a tropical climate, as is
+abundantly evident from animal and vegetable remains found there. These
+prove the existence of islands, banks and forests, forming the shores of
+a vast estuary, the embouchure of some great river from the west. At
+one time, the deep chalk deposit extended all over it; but this was
+disturbed by a line of elevation running along its east and west axis,
+the superincumbent chalk being broken up and washed away; hence the
+cliff-like aspect of the Downs in many places, where they descend
+precipitously to the sandy and gravelly edge of the valley, as to a
+beach. The remains of the huge land lizards and iguanodons of the Weald,
+collected by the late Dr. Mantell, form one of the most conspicuous
+exhibitions of fossil bones in the British Museum. The pretty little
+fossil ferns, Lonchopteris and Sphenopteris, found nature-printed on the
+sandstones, are, on the other hand, the very counterparts, in size and
+delicacy, of their present successors.
+
+In early times, as every local historian tells, the Weald was a chief
+seat of the iron manufacture in Great Britain. The ironstone found here
+was certainly wrought by the Romans and Saxons, if not by the ancient
+Britons; and down to the seventeenth century the trade was prosperous.
+Many an old manor-house, to the present day, attests this former
+prosperity, while its memories linger also in such local names as
+Furnace Place, Cinder Hill, and Hammer Ponds. The balustrades round St.
+Paul's Cathedral are a relic of the Sussex ironworks. Want of fuel, and
+the more abundant and rich ironstone of the Coal-measures, caused the
+decay of the industry, after whole forests had been destroyed to feed
+the furnaces. The old-fashioned cottages, here and there remaining,
+speak of days of former prosperity among the working-classes; nor
+are they even yet devoid of comfort, although the transition has been
+great--ironworkers then, chicken-fatteners now!
+
+The ridge that runs through the centre of the Weald is called the Forest
+Ridge and Ashdown. It is here that the chief beauties of the district
+are concentrated, while the whole plain lies open to view from the
+heights. Starting from East Grinstead, near to which is the source of
+the Medway, a walk of extraordinary interest and sylvan beauty leads by
+Forest Row and the ruins of Brambletye House up to High Beeches; from
+which spot a pleasant excursion may be made to Horsted Keynes, where the
+gentle and saintly Archbishop Leighton lies buried. His grave is in the
+chancel; his tomb outside the church. Thence, bearing to the east, the
+traveller may work his way to Crowborough Beacon, near the road from
+Tunbridge Wells to Lewes, where, with a foreground of moss and fern,
+dotted here and there by fir trees, he may look over the whole rolling
+surface of the Weald, rich with the flowers of spring, the blossoms of
+summer, or the golden fruitage and yellow corn of the autumn; while the
+purple downs on either hand close in the prospect, with just one gleam,
+beyond Beachy Head, of the distant sea. Then, if desirous of prolonging
+his ramble to other points of view, he may cross the hills to
+Heathfield, resting on the way at Mayfield, an old-world Wealden town,
+once a residence of archbishops, and the traditional scene of the
+renowned combat between Dunstan and the Devil. Here the traveller
+may find a temporary resting-place in some rustic hostelry, where,
+if luxuries are not obtainable, the eggs and bacon are wholesome and
+abundant; the sheets are fragrant with lavender, and though perhaps
+a little wondered at by the rustic children, he will have a home-like
+welcome.
+
+[Illustration: 0050]
+
+Again we leave the beaten track, and push on through the vale of
+Heathfield to the south; for a walk of seven or eight miles will bring
+us to Hurstmonceux, inseparably connected with the name and work of
+Archdeacon Hare, the philosophic theologian and devout Christian, whose
+books on the Victory of Faith and the Mission of the Comforter have done
+so much to elevate the religious thought of the age; and who, by
+his _Vindication of Luther_, has made it impossible for any man of
+competent knowledge and fair judgment to repeat old calumnies against
+the great Reformer.
+
+[Illustration: 0051]
+
+We visit the castle--one of the finest remains of the later
+feudalism--fortress and mansion in one. "Persons who have visited Rome,"
+writes Archdeacon Hare, "on entering the Castle-court, and seeing the
+piles of brickwork strewn about, have been reminded of the Baths of
+Caracalla, though of course on a miniature scale; the illusion being
+perhaps fostered by the deep blue of the Sussex sky, which, when
+compared with that in more northerly parts of England, has almost an
+Italian character." After exploring the great ruddy-tinted ruins, we
+may ascend to the church, taking a glance at the rectory, the home of
+so much piety and genius, seeing once again in thought the archdeacon's
+friend and curate, poor John Sterling, as described by Hare, with his
+tall form rapidly advancing across the lawn to the study window; or
+more pensively may pass to the churchyard, where so many members of the
+parted family band sleep as "one in Christ."
+
+Before turning northwards, let us make our way to Beachy Mead, grandest
+of the English chalk headlands in the south; or, resting for a while at
+Eastbourne, that bright modern watering-place, between the sea and the
+hills, with the quaint Sussex village in the background, we may prepare
+for a long, health-giving, inspiring ramble over the South Downs, "that
+chain of majestic mountains," as White of Selborne calls them--for the
+most part bare treeless hills, sweeping in many a grand curve, broken
+by shadowed "coombes," or wooded flowery "deans." On the way to Lewes,
+Firle Beacon, one of the highest points of the Downs, may be ascended,
+after which the traveller may take the rail to Brighton and Shoreham,
+and strike up hill again into what is perhaps the finest part of the
+range, where, from Chanctonbury Ring, he will be able to command at
+one view all its most characteristic features. The height itself is
+conspicuous far and wide, from its dark crown of fir trees. Probably the
+"Ring" denotes here the ancient entrenchment, British or Roman, which
+is circular, or it may be a reminiscence of the time when fairies were
+believed in; "fairy rings" being a common feature of the Downs; caused
+really by the growth of mushrooms, the grass, by the decay of the
+latter, becoming of a deeper green.
+
+[Illustration: 0053]
+
+Steyning is the nearest station to Chanctonbury, and we would advise
+the tourist to take train there for the North Downs, or better still, to
+proceed in the opposite direction to Arundel, famous for its picturesque
+castle and park, with its fair historic pastures: but in either case the
+Weald will be crossed via Horsham. About half way between Arundel and
+Horsham, many a traveller will be disposed to turn off to the little
+Sussex town of Midhurst, on the edge of the Weald, where Richard Cobden
+was born, and where the old "Schola Grammaticalis," the most prominent
+building in the town, has the twin honour of the great Free Trader's
+early education, as well as that of Sir Charles Lyell, the geologist.
+Between this town and Dorking, whither the traveller is bound, he may
+see to his left the wooded slopes and imposing tower-crowned summit of
+Leith Hill, the loftiest elevation in southeastern England. If he can
+leave the rail, say at the little roadside station of Capel, and climb
+the hill from the south-east by Ockley and Tanhurst, he will not only
+be richly rewarded, but may perhaps express his astonishment that such
+views and such a walk should be found within a short afternoon's journey
+of London. From the summit of Leith Hill, it is said that ten counties
+are visible; not only Kent, Sussex, and Surrey, but Hampshire,
+Berkshire, Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Middlesex. Hertfordshire, and
+Essex. The eye ranges, in short, from a height of just less than 1000
+feet over a circumference of 200 miles of fair and various landscape;
+valley and upland; broad meadows and wooded slopes, with many an open
+ridge against the sky. Only the charm of river or lake is wanting;
+but we are in no mood to be critical. Downwards, the walk is full of
+interest, through wooded lanes to Anstiebury, where there is a fine
+Roman encampment, and on to romantic Holmwood, with its pine woods and
+breezy common; past Deepdene, the wonderfully beautiful seat of the
+Hope family, and so to Dorking, where the wearied pedestrian will find a
+pleasant rest, with nothing to excite him, save the remembrances of his
+little excursion.
+
+[Illustration: 0055]
+
+If he were not well prepared for its exceeding loveliness beforehand, it
+must have been to him a surprise as well as a delight. Comparisons are
+proverbially distasteful, but we can understand, if we can not wholly
+endorse, the rapturous verdict of John Dennis, who gives it as his
+opinion that the prospect from Leith Hill "surpasses at once in rural
+charm, pomp, and magnificence" the view of the Val d'Arno from the
+Apennines, or of the Campagna from Tivoli.
+
+[Illustration: 0056]
+
+We are now fairly in the Surrey Hills, and may put what some will think
+the very crown to these south-eastern excursions by a walk from Dorking
+to Farnham. Ascending by one of many lanes, shadowed (at the time of our
+visit) by hedges bright with hawthorn berries, and stately trees just
+touched with the russet and gold of early autumn, we are soon upon an
+upland stretch of heath and forest, still remaining in all the wildness
+of nature. Sometimes the path leads us between venerable trees--oak and
+beech and yew, whose branches form an impenetrable roof overhead, then
+traverses a sweep of bare hill, bright with gorse and heather, then
+plunges into some fairy dell, carpeted with softest moss. Many of the
+"stately homes of England," with their embowering trees upon the lower
+slopes, add a charm to the scene by their reminiscences as well as by
+their beauty. To the left is Wotton; made famous by the name and
+genius of John Evelyn, author of _Sylva_ and the _Diary_--the scholar,
+gentleman, and Christian--pure-minded in an age of corruption, and the
+admiration of dissolute courtiers, who could respect what they would not
+imitate. It is to him that Cowley says:
+
+     "Happy art thou, whom God does bless
+     With the full choice of thine own happiness;
+     And happier yet, because thou'rt blest
+     With wisdom how to choose the best."
+
+That the choice was made, for life and death, appears by the inscription
+which Evelyn directed to be placed on his tombstone at Wotton. "That
+living in an age of extraordinary events and revolution, he had learned
+from thence this truth, which he desired might be thus communicated to
+posterity: that all is vanity which is not honest, and that there is no
+solid wisdom but real piety."
+
+Two or three miles further Albury is reached, with its lovely gardens
+designed by Evelyn. The curious traveller may here inspect the sumptuous
+church erected by the late Mr. Drummond, the owner of Albury, for the
+followers of Edward Irving. The worth of Mr. Drummond's character, with
+the shrewd sense and caustic wit by which he was wont to enliven
+the debates of the House of Commons, laid a deeper hold upon his
+contemporaries than his theological peculiarities; and the special views
+of which this temple is the costly memorial have proved of insufficient
+power to sway the minds and hearts of men. Still ascending, we reach
+again the summit of steep downs, and advancing by noble yew-trees gain
+at Newland's Corner another magnificent view. The hill of the "Holy
+Martyrs'" Chapel, now corrupted to "Saint Martha's," may next be
+climbed, and a short rest at the fine old town of Guildford will be
+welcome. The castle, the churches with their monuments, and Archbishop
+Abbot's Hospital, are all worthy of a visit; but, unless we have a day
+to spare, we must be content with but a hurried glance, for we have
+still the "Hog's Back" to traverse, a ten miles' walk to Farnham.
+
+Climbing from the station at Guildford through pleasant lanes, the
+traveller emerges upon a narrow chalk-ridge, half-a-mile wide, and
+nearly level, which etymologists tell us was called by the Anglo-Saxons
+_Hoga_, a hill, whence the ridge received its name. Possibly, however,
+a simpler derivation, as the more obvious, is also the more correct. The
+long upland unbroken line might not unaptly have been compared with
+one of those long, lean, narrow-backed swine with which early English
+illuminations make us familiar; and the homeliness of the name
+would quite accord with the habit of early topographers. The walk is
+interesting, but, after the varied beauties of the way from Dorking to
+Guildford, may appear at first slightly monotonous. On either side the
+fair, fertile champaign of Surrey stretches to the horizon, broken
+here and there by low wood-crowned hills, and at one point especially,
+between Puttenham on the left, and Wanborough on the right, the
+combinations of view are very striking. Puttenham church-tower, and the
+manor-house, formerly the Priory, peep out from amongst the foliage of
+some grand old trees. A few cottages and farmhouses lie scattered about
+picturesquely, forming the very ideal of an old English village; while
+pine-covered Crooksbury Hill, with the Devil's Jumps and Hindhead in
+the farther distance, make a striking background to the view. "Wan" is
+evidently "Woden," and here there was no doubt a shrine of the ancient
+Saxon deity.
+
+We must not omit in passing to drink of the Wanborough spring, among the
+freshest and purest in England; never known, it is said, to freeze.
+
+Pursuing our journey, we presently look down upon Moor Park and
+Waverley, which we may either visit now, descending by the little,
+village of Seale, or reserve for an excursion from Farnham. Waverley
+contains the picturesque remains of an old Cistercian Abbey, built as
+the Cistercians always did build, in a charming valley, embosomed in
+hills, irrigated by a clear running stream, abounding in fish, and with
+current enough to turn the mill of the monastery. The annals of this
+great establishment, extending over two hundred and thirty years, were
+published towards the close of the seventeenth century; and Sir Walter
+Scott took from them the name now so familiar wherever the English
+language is spoken.
+
+Divided from Waverley by a winding lane, whose high banks and profuse
+undergrowth remind us of Devonshire, lies Moor Park. Hither Sir William
+Temple retired from the toils of State, to occupy his leisure by
+gardening, planting, and in writing memoirs. A trim garden, with
+stiff-clipped hedges, and watered by a straight canal which runs through
+it, is doubtless a reminiscence of Temple's residence as our ambassador
+at the Hague. "But," says Lord Macaulay, "there were other inmates of
+Moor Park to whom a higher interest belongs. An eccentric, uncouth,
+disagreeable young Irishman, who had narrowly escaped plucking at
+Dublin, attended Sir William as an amanuensis for board and twenty
+pounds a year; dined at the second table, wrote bad verses in praise of
+his employer, and made love to a very pretty dark-eyed young girl,
+who waited on Lady Giffard. Little did Temple imagine that the coarse
+exterior of his dependant concealed a genius equally suited to politics
+and to letters, a genius destined to shake great kingdoms, to stir the
+laughter and the rage of millions, and to leave to posterity memorials
+which can only perish with the English language. Little did he think
+that the flirtation in his servants' hall, which he, perhaps, scarcely
+deigned to make the subject of a jest, was the beginning of a long,
+unprosperous love, which was to be as widely famed as the passion of
+Petrarch or Abelard. Sir William's secretary was Jonathan Swift. Lady
+Giffard's waiting-maid was poor Stella."
+
+Just outside the lodge gate, at the end of the park furthest from the
+mansion, is a small house covered with roses and evergreens. It is known
+to the peasantry as Dame Swift's cottage. Our rustic guide pointed it
+out by this name, but who Dame Swift was he did not know. He had never
+heard of Stella and her sad history. An object of far greater interest
+to him was a large fox-earth, a couple of hundred yards away, in which
+some years ago "a miser" had lived and died. A whole crop of legends
+have already sprung up about the mysterious inmate of the cave. He was
+a nobleman, so said our informant, who had been crossed in love: he
+had made a vow that no human being should see his face, and accordingly
+never came out till after nightfall, even then being closely wrapped up
+in his cloak. After his death a party of ladies and gentlemen came
+down from London in a post-chaise and four; and having buried the body
+carried away "a cartload of golden guineas and fine dresses, which he
+had hid in the cave."
+
+[Illustration: 0059]
+
+The picturesqueness of the approach to Farnham, whether over the last
+ridge of the Hog's Back, or through the lanes from Seale, Moor Park,
+and Waverley, is much enhanced by the hop-gardens, which occupy about a
+thousand acres in the neighbourhood. For excellence the Farnham hops are
+considered to bear the palm, although the chief field of this peculiar
+branch of cultivation is in Kent. No south-eastern rambles, especially
+in the early autumn, would be complete without a visit to the gardens
+where the hop-picking is in full operation. It is the great holiday
+for thousands of the humbler class of Londoners, as well as the chosen
+resort of thousands of the "finest pisantry" from the Emerald Isle.
+Costermongers, watermen, sempstresses, factory girls, labourers of
+all descriptions, young and old, bear a hand at the work. The air is
+invigorating, the task to the industrious is easy, and the pay is not
+bad. The hop-pickers, who are in such numbers that they cannot obtain
+even humble lodgings in the villages, sleep in barns, sheds, stables,
+and booths, or even under the hedges in the lanes. A rough kind of
+order is maintained among themselves; although outbreaks of violence and
+debauchery sometimes happen. On the whole the work is not unhealthy, and
+the opportunity of engaging in it is as real a boon to the hop-pickers
+as the journey to Scarborough or Biarritz to those of another class.
+Besides which, the great gathering of people gives opportunities of
+which Christian activity avails itself; and the evening visit to the
+encampment, the homely address, the quiet talk, and the well-chosen
+tract, have been instrumental of lasting good to those whom religious
+agencies elsewhere had failed to reach.
+
+[Illustration: 0060]
+
+Farnham has special associations with both the Church and the Army; and
+the impartial visitor will no doubt take an opportunity of seeing the
+stately moated castle, the abode of the Bishops of Winchester, and of
+visiting the neighbouring camp of Aldershot. The politician will recal
+the name of William Cobbett, who was born in this neighbourhood, and
+in his own direct and homely style, often dwells on his boyish
+recollections of its charms. Some will not forget another name
+associated with this little Surrey town. One among the sweetest singers
+of our modern Israel, Augustus Toplady, was born at Farnham. He died
+at the age of thirty-eight, but he lived long enough to write "Rock of
+Ages, cleft for me and none need covet a nobler earthly immortality."
+
+[Illustration: 0062]
+
+
+
+
+OUR FOREST AND WOODLANDS
+
+|WHEN Britain was first brought by Roman ambition within the knowledge
+of Southern Europe, the interior of our Island was one vast forest.
+Cæsar and Strabo agree in describing its towns as being nothing more
+than spaces cleared of trees--"royds," or "thwaites" in North of England
+phrase--where a few huts were placed and defended by ditch or rampart.
+Somersetshire and the adjacent counties were covered by the Coit Mawr,
+or Great Wood. Asser tells us that Berkshire was so called from the Wood
+of Berroc, where the box-tree grew most abundantly. Buckinghamshire was
+so called from the great forests of beech (boc), of which the remnants
+still survive. The Cotswold Hills, and the Wolds of Yorkshire, are shown
+by their names to have been once far-spreading woodlands; and the
+same may be said of the Weald of Sussex, the subject, in part, of the
+preceding chapter. "In the district of the Weald," writes the Rev. Isaac
+Taylor, "almost every local name, for miles and miles, terminates in
+_hurst, ley, den, or field_. The _hursts_ were the dense portions of the
+forests; the _leys_ are the open forest-glades where the cattle love to
+lie; the dens are the deep wooded valleys, and the _fields_ were little
+patches of 'felled' or cleared land in the midst of the surrounding
+forest. From Petersfield and Midhurst, by Billinghurst, Cuckfield,
+Wadhurst, and Lamberhurst, as far as Hawkshurst and Tenterden, these
+names stretch in an uninterrupted string." And, again, "A line of
+names ending in _den_ testifies to the existence of the forest tract in
+Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire, and Huntingdon, which formed the western
+boundary of the East Saxon and East Anglican Kingdoms. Henley in Arden
+and Hampton in Arden are vestiges of the great Warwickshire forest of
+Arden, which stretched from the Forest of Dean to Sherwood Forest." *
+Hampshire was already a forest in the time of William the Conqueror:
+all he did was to sweep away the towns and villages which had sprung
+up within its precincts. Epping and Hainault are but fragments of
+the ancient forest of Essex, which extended as far as Colchester.
+Lancashire, Cheshire, Yorkshire, and the other northern counties, were
+the haunts of the wolf, the wild boar, and the red deer, which roamed at
+will over moorland and forest, and have given their names here and there
+to a bold upland or sequestered nook.
+
+Even down to the time of Oueen Elizabeth immense tracts of primeval
+forest remained unreclaimed. Sir Henry Spelman ** gives the following
+list of those which were still in existence.
+
+     * Words and Places, pp. 381-3.
+
+     ** Quoted in _English Forests and Forest Trees._
+
+[Illustration: 0064]
+
+[Illustration: 0065]
+
+This list is evidently far from complete. It may, however, serve to show
+the extent of unreclaimed land in England so recently as the sixteenth
+century. And here, it should be noted, that though, as a matter of fact,
+forest lands are generally woodlands also, this is not essential to
+the meaning of the word. A "forest," says Mr. Hensleigh Wedgwood, * "is
+properly a wilderness, or uncultivated tract of country; but, as such
+were commonly overgrown with trees, the word took the meaning of a large
+wood. We have many forests in England without a stick of timber upon
+them." It is especially so in Scotland, as many a traveller who has
+ridden all the long day by the treeless "Forest of Breadalbane" will
+well remember.
+
+     * _Dictionary of English Etymology._
+
+The question has been recently much discussed whether our forests
+ought to be retained in their present extent. Economists have shown
+by calculation that forests do not pay. It is said that they encourage
+idleness and poaching, and thus lead to crime. Estimates have been made
+of the amount of corn which might be raised if the soil were brought
+under the plough. Yet few persons who have wandered through the glades
+of our glorious woodlands would be willing to part with them. Admit that
+the cost of maintenance is in excess of their return to the national
+exchequer; yet England is rich enough to bear the loss; and it is a poor
+economy which reduces everything to a pecuniary estimate. "Man shall
+not live by bread alone." In God's world beauty has its place as well as
+utility. "Consider the lilies."
+
+     "God might have made enough--enough
+     For every want of ours,
+     For temperance, medicine, and use,
+     And yet have made no flowers."
+
+"He hath made everything beautiful in his time;" and means that we
+should rejoice in His works as well as feed upon His bounty and learn
+from His wisdom. While by no means insensible to the charm of a richly
+cultivated district, where "the pastures are clothed with flocks, the
+valleys also are covered over with corn," yet let us trust that the day
+is far distant when our few remaining forests shall have disappeared
+before modern improvements and scientific husbandry.
+
+To the lover of nature, forest scenery is beautiful at all seasons.
+How pleasant is it, in the hot summer noon, to lie beneath the "leafy
+screen," through which the sunlight flickers like golden rain; to watch
+the multitudenous life around us--the squirrel flashing from bough to
+bough, the rabbit darting past with quick, jerky movements, the birds
+flitting hither and thither in busy idleness, the columns of insects
+in ceaseless, aimless gliding motion--and to listen to the mysterious
+undertone of sound which pervades rather than disturbs the silence!
+Beautiful, too, are the woods when autumn has touched their greenery
+with its own variety of hue. From the old Speech House of the Forest
+of Dean we have looked out as on a billowy, far extending sea of
+glory--elm, oak, beech, ash, maple, all with their own peculiar tints,
+yet blending into one harmonious chord of colour in the light of the
+westering sun; whilst from among them the holly and the yew stood out
+like green islands set in an ocean of gold.
+
+A little later in the year, and we tread among the rustling leaves,
+whilst over us interlaces in intricate tracery a network of branches,
+twigs, and sprays:--
+
+     "The ruined choirs where late the sweet birds sang."
+
+Return a few weeks afterwards, and surely it will be felt that forest
+scenery is never more fairy-like than when the bare boughs are feathered
+with snowflakes, or sparkle with icicles, that flash like diamonds in
+the wintry sunlight, or faintly tinkle overhead as they sway to and fro
+in the icy breeze. Never is the forest more solemn than when, with a
+sound like thunder or the raging sea, the wind tosses the giant branches
+in wild commotion. We cannot wonder that Schiller delighted to wander
+alone in the stormy midnight through the woods, listening to the tempest
+which raged aloft, or that much of his grandest poetry was composed amid
+scenes like these.
+
+Nor must we forget the aspect of the woods in early spring, when Nature
+is just awaking from her winter's sleep. It needs a quick eye to trace
+the delicate shades of colour which then succeed each other--the dull
+brown first brightening into a reddish hue, as the glossy leaf-cases
+begin to expand, then a faint hint of tender green as the pale leaves
+burst from their enclosure one after another, tinging with colour the
+skeleton branches which they are soon to clothe with their beautiful
+mantle.
+
+     "Mysterious round! What skill, what force divine,
+     Deep felt, in these appear! A simple train,
+     Yet so delightful, mixed with such kind art,
+     Such beauty and beneficence combined,
+     Shade unperceived so softening into shade.
+     And all so forming an harmonious whole,
+     That, as they still succeed, they ravish still."
+
+The New Forest claims precedence over all others, from its extent, its
+picturesque beauty, and its historical associations. Though greatly
+encroached upon since the time that the Conqueror "loved its red deer as
+if he were their father," and the Red King fell beneath the arrow of Sir
+Walter Tyrrell, it still contains long stretches of wild moorland,
+and mighty oaks which may have been venerable in the days of the
+Plantagenets. The red deer have entirely disappeared. About a hundred
+fallow-deer yet remain. They are very shy, hiding themselves in the
+least visited recesses of the Forest, and are rarely seen except during
+the annual hunt, which takes place every spring. In 1874 a pack of
+bloodhounds was brought down by Lord Londesborough, who owns a beautiful
+park near Lyndhurst. The sport, however, is said not to have been very
+good. Numerous droves of forest ponies run wild, and with the herds
+of swine feeding upon the acorns and beech-mast give animation to the
+scene. Amid the forest glades even pigs become picturesque.
+
+Charming excursions may be made into the Forest from the towns on its
+borders, Southampton, Lymington, Christchurch, or Ringwood. But he
+who would fully appreciate its beauties must take up his quarters at
+Lyndhurst, in the very heart of its finest scenery. From this centre,
+walks or drives may be taken in every direction, and in almost endless
+variety. One of these, describing a circuit of about twelve miles, past
+the Rufus Stone and Boldrewood, claims especial mention. The road leads
+for a short distance through a richly-wooded and highly cultivated
+district. On a knoll to the left is a farm-house occupying the site
+of the Keep of Malwood, where William Rufus slept the night before his
+death. From this point vistas, locally known as "peeps," are cut
+through the trees, commanding noble views over the Forest, and extending
+southwards to Southampton Water, the Channel and the Isle of Wight. The
+soil now becomes more barren, and the trees more sparse and stunted. At
+the bottom of a steep descent stood a pyramidal stone, marking the spot
+where the king was slain, bearing on its three sides a record of the
+event. This has now been cased by an iron cylinder, with the original
+inscriptions in bold relief. To the left stretches a long bare ridge of
+moorland, from the summit of which the eye ranges over grand sweeps
+of fern, gorse, and heather, bounded by woodlands to the verge of the
+horizon.
+
+[Illustration: 0068]
+
+The road now passes through a succession of forest glades, over
+smooth green turf, beneath arches of beech and oak, with a luxuriant
+undergrowth of holly and yew. At Burley Lodge we reach some of the
+finest and oldest timber in the Forest. Here formerly stood twelve
+magnificent oaks, known as the "Twelve Apostles." Most of these have,
+disappeared, but two yet remain, which for size, beauty, and venerable
+antiquity are perhaps unequalled. A little farther on, a grove of
+beeches arrests the traveller by the grandeur and beauty of their forms,
+and is a favourite halting-place. Enthusiastic lovers of sylvan scenery,
+artists and others, not infrequently encamp here for days together,
+screened from wind and weather not only by the canvas of their tent,
+but by the impenetrable roof of foliage overhead. Bearing to the south,
+along an intricate labyrinth of woodpaths, through modern plantations
+alternated with clumps of primeval forest, we reach& the cultivated
+district, with smiling farms, stately mansions, and picturesque
+villages, returning thus to Lyndhurst.
+
+[Illustration: 0069]
+
+Before we bid a regretful adieu to this little forest town, we must by
+all means visit the new church. The noble fresco of the Ten Virgins by
+Leighton which forms the altar-piece, is understood to be the munificent
+gift of the artist. The look of sullen or of wild despair on the faces
+of the foolish virgins as they are rejected, and the expression of
+sternness blended with pity in that of the angel who repels them, may
+well awaken solemn thought:
+
+     "Too late! too late! ye cannot enter now!"
+
+[Illustration: 0070]
+
+The Forest of Dean, though less extensive than the New Forest, is hardly
+less beautiful;--
+
+     "The queen of forests all that west of Severn lie."--_Drayton_.
+
+It occupies the high ground between the valleys of the Severn and the
+Wye. What Lyndhurst is to the one, the Speech House is to the other.
+The Foresters' Courts have been held here for centuries, in a large
+hall panelled with dark oak and hung round with deer's antlers. Here the
+"verderers," foresters, "gavellers," miners, and Crown agents meet
+to discuss in open court their various claims in a sort of local
+parliament. Originally the King's Lodge, it is now a comfortable inn,
+affording good accommodation for the lovers of sylvan scenery. The deer
+with which the forest once abounded diminished in numbers up to 1850,
+when they were removed. But, as in the New Forest, droves of ponies
+and herds of swine roam at large among the trees, giving animation and
+interest to the landscape. A different feeling is aroused by the sight
+of furnaces and coal-pits in different directions, indicative of the
+mineral treasures hidden beneath the fair surface of this forest.
+Ironworks have in fact existed here from very early times; the
+forest-trees having, as in the Weald of Sussex, afforded an abundant
+supply of fuel, though (thanks to the coal-beds beneath) without the
+same result in denuding the district of its leafy glories.
+
+Savernake Forest, in Wiltshire, the property of the Marquis of
+Ailesbury, is the only English forest belonging to a subject, and is
+especially remarkable for its avenues of trees. One, of magnificent
+beeches, is nearly four miles in length, and is intersected at one point
+of its course by three separate "walks" or forest vistas, placed at such
+angles as with the avenue itself to command eight points of the compass.
+The effect is unique and beautiful, the artificial character of the
+arrangement being amply compensated by the exceeding luxuriance of the
+thick-set trees, and the soft loveliness of the verdant flowery
+glades which they enclose. The smooth bright foliage of the beech is
+interspersed with the darker shade of the fir, while towering elms and
+majestic wide-spreading oaks diversify the line of view in endless,
+beautiful variety. At one point, a clump of trees will be reached--the
+veterans of the forest, with moss-clad trunks and gnarled half-leafless
+branches; the chief being known as the King Oak, but sometimes called
+the Duke's, from the Lord Protector Somerset, with whom this tree was
+a favourite. The railway from Hungerford to Marlborough skirts this
+forest, the southern portion of which is known as Tottenham Park. An
+obelisk, erected on one of its highest points, in 1781, to commemorate
+the recovery of George III., forms an easily-recognisable landmark,
+and may also guide the wanderer in the forest glades, who might else be
+bewildered by the very uniformity of the lone lines of foliage. On the
+whole, if this Forest of Savernake has not the vast extent, or the wild
+natural beauty of some other forests, it has all the charm that the
+richest luxuriance can give, while some of its noblest I trees will be
+found away from the great avenues, on the gentle slopes or in the mossy
+dells, which diversify the surface of this most beautiful domain. Nor
+will the visitor in spring-time fail to be delighted by the great banks
+of rhododendron and azalea, which at many parts add colour and splendour
+to the scene.
+
+Among our smaller woodlands, Burnham Beeches claim special notice. They
+are reached by a charming drive of five or six miles from Maidenhead.
+The road leads at first through one of the most highly cultivated and
+fertile districts in England, and then enters Dropmore Park, with its
+stately avenues of cedar and pine, and some of the finest araucarias
+in Europe. The Beeches occupy a knoll which rises from the plain, over
+which it commands splendid views, Windsor Castle and the valley of the
+Thames being conspicuous objects in the landscape. The trees are many
+of them of immense girth; but having been pollarded--tradition says by
+Cromwell's troopers--they do not attain a great height. They are thus
+wanting in the feathery grace and sweep which form the characteristic
+beauty of the beech; but, in exchange for this, the gnarled, twisted
+branches are in the very highest degree picturesque, and to the wearied
+Londoner few ways of spending a summer's day can be more enjoyable than
+a ramble over the Burnham Knoll, with its turfy slopes and shaded dells,
+or better still, a picnic with some chosen friends in the shadow of one
+or other of these stupendous trees.
+
+[Illustration: 0072]
+
+Space will not allow us to do more than refer to the forests of Epping
+and Hainault, Sherwood and Charnwood, Whittlebury and Delamere, with
+many others. The names recal the memories of happy days spent beneath
+their leafy screen, or in wandering over the wild moorlands on which
+they stand, with grateful thoughts, too, of--
+
+                        "That unwearied love
+     Which planned and built, and still upholds this world,
+     So clothed with beauty for rebellious man."
+
+
+
+
+SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY
+
+[Illustration: 0074]
+
+[Illustration: 0075]
+
+|THE traveller who would enter into the full charm of "Shakspere's
+country" is recommended to start from the quaint and ancient city of
+Coventry, and to pursue the high road to Warwick, taking Kenilworth in
+his way. There is scarcely a walk in England more perfect in its own
+kind of beauty than the five miles from Coventry to Kenilworth. A wide,
+well-kept road follows, almost in a straight line, the undulations
+of the hills. Soon after leaving the city, a broad, flower-enamelled
+coppice, open to the road, is reached; then the hedgerows are flanked
+on both sides with noble elms, forming a stately avenue, through which
+glimpses are ever and anon obtained of purple wood-crested hills in
+the distance. Broad rolling pastures, and cornfields, rich in promise,
+stretch away on either hand; the grassy road-side and high hedge-banks,
+showing the deep red subsoil of the sandstone, or variegated clays of
+the red marls, are bright with wild flowers, and the air is musical
+with the song of birds. Travellers are few; the railway scream in the
+distance, to the left, suggests that all who are in a hurry to reach
+their destination have taken another route; if it be holiday time,
+parties of young men on Coventry bicycles are sure to flash past; but
+it is our delight to linger and enjoy. We are, as Thomas Fuller says,
+in the "Medi-terranean" part of England; and English scenery nowhere
+displays a more characteristic charm.
+
+[Illustration: 0076]
+
+Kenilworth old church and the castle at length are reached; the latter,
+a stately ruin. The visitor will duly note Cæsar's Tower, the original
+keep, with its walls, in some parts, sixteen feet thick; then the
+remains of the magnificent banqueting hall, built by John of Gaunt,
+and, lastly, the dilapidated towers erected by Robert Dudley, Earl of
+Leicester, one part of which bears the name of poor Amy Robsart. No
+officious cicerone is likely to offer his services; a trifling gate-fee
+opens the place freely to all, either to rest on the greensward, or to
+climb the battered ramparts; to survey, at one view, the ancient moat,
+the castle garden, the tilt-yard, where knights met in mimic battle;
+the bed of the lake, where sea-fights were imitated for a monarch's
+sport--in short, the impressive memorials of a fashion in life and act
+that have long since yielded to nobler things. "The massy ruins," says
+Sir Walter Scott, "only serve to show what their splendour once was,
+and to impress on the musing visitor the transitory value of human
+possessions, and the happiness of those who enjoy a humble lot in
+industrious contentment." There are other lessons, too, national,
+as well as individual; and we turn away from old Kenilworth with
+thankfulness that the ruins of the nineteenth century will at least tell
+to our descendants no tales of feudal tyranny, of royal murders, or of
+sanguinary civil strife.
+
+[Illustration: 0078]
+
+The town of Kenilworth is of considerable size, containing, at the last
+census, more than 3,000 inhabitants. The traveller may rest here, or in
+a quaint little hostelry close to the castle gates, not forgetting to
+visit the ancient church--that at the other end of the town is modern,
+and need not detain him. After due refreshment, he will probably be in
+the humour for another five miles' walk, or drive, along a road almost
+equal in beauty to that by which he came, to Warwick, calling at Guy's
+Cliff by the way. He had better make up his mind, for the time at least,
+to believe in Guy, "the Saxon giant who slew the dun cow," and, after a
+life of doughty deeds, retired to a hermitage, here where the Avon opens
+into a lake-like transparent pool, at the foot of the exquisitely-wooded
+cliff. The cave of the giant's retreat may be seen; and the traveller
+will be charmed by the fair mansion on the one side overhanging the
+Avon, and on the other opening down a long avenue, flowery and verdant,
+to the high road.
+
+[Illustration: 0079]
+
+Warwick Castle is so frequently visited, that it needs little
+description. The winding road, cut out of the solid rock from the
+lodge to the castle gate, is a fitting approach to the stately
+fortress-palace, and well prepares the visitor for what is to follow.
+Some will prefer to roam the gardens, so far as watchful custodians
+permit, turning aside to the solid-looking Gothic conservatory to see
+the great Warwick vase, brought from fair Tivoli; others will follow the
+courteous housekeeper down the long suite of castle halls, poting the
+glorious views from the deep embayed windows, duly admiring the bed in
+which Queen Anne once slept, with the portrait of her majesty, plump and
+rubicund, on the opposite wall. The logs heaped up, as logs have been
+for centuries, in readiness for the great hall-fire, carry the mind
+back to olden fashions; the inlaid table of precious stones, said to be
+"worth" ten thousand pounds, excites a languid curiosity; the helmet
+of Oliver Cromwell, an authentic relic, suggests many a thought of
+the great brain which it once enclosed; and, while other items in the
+antique show pass as phantasmagoria before the bewildered attention,
+there are some portraits on the walls, to have seen which is a lasting
+pleasure of memory. It is a happy thing that these were spared by the
+fire of 1871; justly counted as a national calamity rather than a
+family misfortune. The traces of the conflagration are now almost wholly
+removed, although some priceless treasures have been irrecoverably lost.
+
+[Illustration: 0080]
+
+At the lodge, by the castle gate, there is a museum of curiosities,
+which will interest the believers in the great "Guy," and will amuse
+others. For there is the giant's "porridge pot" of bell-metal, vast in
+circumference and resonant in ring; with his staff, his horse's armour,
+and, to crown all, some ribs of the "dun cow" herself! What if, in sober
+truth, some last lingerer of a species now extinct roamed over the
+great forest of Arden, the terror of the country, until Sir Guy wrought
+deliverance?
+
+Warwick itself need not detain us long; the church, however, demands
+a visit; and the Beauchamp Chapel, with its monuments, is one of the
+finest in England. But the pedestrian will probably elect to spend the
+night at Leamington, close by, before continuing his pilgrimage. A visit
+to the ever beautiful Jephson Gardens, with their wealth of evergreen
+oaks, soft turfy lawn, and broad fair water, will afford him a
+pleasant evening, and the next morning will see him _en route_ for
+Stratford-upon-Avon.
+
+[Illustration: 8081]
+
+Again let him take the road, drinking in the influence of the pleasant
+Warwickshire scene; quiet, rural loveliness varying with every mile, and
+glimpses of the silver Avon at intervals enhancing the charm. A slight
+détour will lead to Hampton Lucy, and Charlecote House and Park,
+memorable for the exploits of Shakspere's youth, and for the worshipful
+dignity of Sir Thomas Lucy, the presumed original of Mr. Justice
+Shallow. The park having been skirted, or crossed, the tourist
+proceeds three or four miles further by a good road, and enters
+Stratford-upon-Avon by a stone bridge of great length, crossing the Avon
+and adjacent low-lying meadows.
+
+The bridge, which dates from the reign of Henry VII., has been widened
+on an ingenious plan, by a footpath, supported on a kind of iron
+balcony.
+
+It is easy, however, to imagine its exact appearance when Shakspere
+paced its narrow roadway, or hung over its parapet to watch the skimming
+swallow or the darting trout and minnow.
+
+This Warwickshire town has been so often and so exhaustively described,
+that we may well forbear from any minute detail. Every visitor knows,
+with tolerable accuracy, what he has to expect. He finds, as he had
+anticipated, a quiet country town, very much like other towns; neither
+obtrusively modern, nor quaintly antique--in one word, common-place,
+save for the all-pervading presence and memory of Shakspere. The house
+in Henley Street, where he is said to have been born, will be first
+visited, of course; then the tourist will walk along the High Street,
+noting the Shakspere memorials in the shop-windows, looking up as he
+passes to the fine statue of the poet, placed by Garrick in front of the
+Town Hall.
+
+At the site of New Place, now an open, well-kept garden, with here and
+there some of the shattered foundations of the poet's house, protected
+by wire-work, on the greensward, the visitor will add his tribute of
+wonder, if not of contempt, to the twin memories of Sir Hugh Clopton,
+who pulled down Shakspere's house in one generation, and of the Rev.
+Francis Gastrell, who cut down Shakspere's mulberry-tree in another.
+Just opposite are the guild chapel, the guild hall, with the
+grammar-school where the poet, no doubt, received his education; and,
+after some further walking, the extremity of the town will be reached,
+where a little gate opens to a charming avenue of over-arching
+lime-trees, leading to the church.
+
+[Illustration: 0082]
+
+Before he enters, let him pass round to the other side, where the
+churchyard gently slopes to the Avon, and drink in the tranquillity and
+beauty of the rustic scene. Then, after gaining admission, he will go
+straight to the chancel and gaze upon those which, after all, are the
+only memorials of the poet which possess a really satisfying value, the
+monument and the tomb.
+
+[Illustration: 0084]
+
+As all the world knows, the tomb is a dark slab, lying in the chancel,
+the inscription turned to the east. No name is given, only the lines
+here copied from a photograph:
+
+     "Good Frend for Jesvs sake forbeare
+     To DIGG THE DVST ENCLOASED HEAEE:
+     Blest be ye man v'spares thes stones,
+     And cvrst be he yl moves mv bones.
+
+[Illustration: 0085]
+
+To suppose these lines written by Shakspere himself, seems absurd.
+They are not, indeed, the only doggrel unjustly fathered upon him. The
+prostrate figure on a tomb in the east wall of the chancel, representing
+Shakspere's contemporary and intimate, John-a-Combe, suggests another
+stanza, even inferior in taste and diction. But we have no room now
+for such thoughts. Above us, on the left, is the monument of the poet,
+coloured;  not content with "improving" the plays, caused the bust
+also to be improved by a coating of white paint, how the barbarism was
+removed in 1861, and the statue restored, is a tale often told. The
+effigy certainly existed within seven years of Shakspere's death, so
+that, in all probability, we have a faithful representation of the poet
+as his contemporaries knew him.
+
+[Illustration: 9086]
+
+The inscription is clumsy enough, but proves that the poet's greatness
+was not, as sometimes alleged, unrecognised in his own generation. The
+epitaph on Mistress Susanna Hall, a higher note. Thus it began
+
+     "Witty above her sex--but that's not all--
+     Wise to salvation, was good Mistress Hall.
+     Something of Shakspere was in that; but this
+     Wholly of Him with Whom she's now in bliss."
+
+It is to be regretted that this inscription has been effaced, to make
+room for the epitaph of some obscure descendant. That to Shakespere's
+widow, the wife of his youth, Anne Hathaway however remains placed over
+Her grave by her son; there is something in it pathetically and nobly
+Christian. It is in Latin, and may be rendered freely: "My mother: thou
+gavest me milk and life: alas, for me, that I can but repay thee with a
+sepulchre! Would that some good angel might roll the stone away, and
+thy form come forth in the Saviour's likeness! But my prayers avail not.
+Come quickly, O Christ! then shall my mother, though enclosed in the
+tomb, arise and mount to heaven!"
+
+Before leaving the church we may note some monuments worth attention,
+at least in any other place; as well as a stained glass window, not yet
+complete, but intended to illustrate from Scripture Shakspere's Seven
+Ages of Man. Moses the infant, Jacob the lover, Deborah the Judge, and
+one or two other representations are finished, but the observer feels
+that the types of character are not Shakspere's.
+
+The day's explorations are not yet over. The epitaph on Anne Hathaway's
+tomb, if nothing else, has quickened our desire to know something more
+of her surroundings in those days when Shakspere won and wooed her in
+her rustic home. Retracing our steps through the town, we are directed
+to a field-path bearing straight for Shottery, a village but a mile
+distant. It is not difficult to picture the youthful lover, perhaps,
+out here in the fair open country, among the wild flowers which line the
+walk, and which he has so well described, for there are few traditions
+of Stratford-upon-Avon better authenticated than that which represents
+this as Shakspere's walk in the clays when he "went courting." The
+village is a straggling one, with a look of comfort about its farmsteads
+and cottages; and, at the furthest extremity from Stratford, in a
+pleasant dell, opposite a willow-shaded stream, we find the cottage,
+not much altered, it may be, in externals, since the poet, then a lad of
+eighteen, there found his bride. The capacious chimney-corner, where
+no doubt the lovers sat, is genuine; and other antique relics, from a
+carved bed to an old Bible, carry the mind back, at least, to the era
+of the poet; while the garden and orchard, with the well of pure spring
+water, must be much as Shakspere saw them.
+
+And now having returned to our comfortable hotel--where almost every
+room, by the way, is named after one of the dramas, ours being "All's
+well that ends well"--what was the net result of the visit in regard
+to the personality and history of the great poet? It may seem a strange
+thing to confess, but the effect of the whole was to put Shakspere
+himself further from us, and to deepen the mystery which every student
+of his life and works finds so perplexing. For, save the monument and
+the tomb, there was absolutely nothing to tell of the poet's life;
+no scrap of his writing, no book known to have been his, no original
+authentic record of his words and deeds, no contemporary portrait, no
+object, whether article of furniture, pen, inkstand, or other implement
+of daily use, associated with his name. Strange that a generation,
+which, as we have seen, so honoured his genius and character, should not
+have preserved the poorest or smallest memorial of his life among them!
+True, there is an old, worm-eaten desk in the birth-place, at which he
+may have, sat in the grammar-school; in a room in the town above the
+seed-shop there is a rude piece of carving, representing David and
+Goliath, which once ornamented a room of the house in Henley Street, and
+bears an inscription, "said to have been composed by Shakspere," A.D.
+1606. Let our readers judge:
+
+     "Goliath comes with sword and spear,
+     And David with his sling:
+     Although Goliath rage and swear
+     Down David doth him bring."
+
+For the rest, the relics are evidently imported: an ancient bedstead,
+old-fashioned chairs, and the like; interesting in their way, but
+with nothing to tell us of the poet. He remains to the most zealous
+relic-hunter as great a mystery as Homer himself. Or if in anything here
+we see the poet, it is in those scenes of external nature which he has
+so vividly pictured. We find him among the flowers: beside the
+
+         "bank whereon the wild thyme blows,
+     Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows,
+     Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,
+     With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine."
+
+[Illustration: 0089]
+
+By a happy ingenuity the garden of the house in Henley Street, now
+prettily and daintily kept, has been planted to a great extent
+with Shakspere's flowers; "pansies for thoughts," "rosemary for
+remembrance," with "columbines," the "blue-veined violets," the wild
+thyme, woodbine, musk-rose, and many more. His works are his true
+monument; and of these there is, in the same house, a very large and
+noble collection, with a whole library of literature bearing upon them,
+gathered with admirable care. Yet how few autobiographical details do
+the volumes contain! How hopeless the task of constructing, even from
+the sonnets, a connected picture of his life and career! And of the
+half-dozen anecdotes which have in one way or other descended to us of
+his words and ways, who can say that any detail is true?
+
+[Illustration: 9090]
+
+It is, perhaps, from the portraits, after all, that we may gain the most
+trustworthy impression of the poet's individuality. That on the tomb is
+for obvious reasons the most valuable. There it has been, in the sight
+of all men, from the very days of Shakspere. The eyes of his widow and
+of their children must often have rested upon it; and there can be no
+doubt that it presents the true aspect of the man. The engravings of
+the bust, and even the photographs, seem to us to exaggerate the calm,
+serene expression of the countenance. Partly, it may be, from the effect
+of the colouring on the full and shapely cheeks, there is an air almost
+of joviality about the face. It is quite as easy to recognise the
+Warwickshire squire of New Place, as to feel the presence of the poet
+of all time. There is, in the Henley Street house, a portrait of
+extraordinary history; lately discovered. The antiquity of this portrait
+seems indubitable; but the face seems a copy, and, so far as we could
+judge without seeing the two side by side, of that on the monument.
+For the we naturally associate with Shakspere, we must go rather to
+the "Chandos portrait," now in the National Portrait Gallery, or to the
+terra-cotta bust, disinterred in 1845, from the site of the old theatre
+in Lincoln's Inn Fields, and presented by the Duke of Devonshire to
+the Garrick Club. In a somewhat rough fashion, the Droeshout portrait,
+prefixed to the first folio edition of the plays, in 1623, gives
+a similar impression of power; and Ben Jonson, who knew Shakspere
+personally, testifies strongly to its correctness:
+
+     "This figure that thou here seest put,
+     It was for gentle Shakspere cut;
+     Wherein the graver had a strife
+     With Nature, to outdo the Life."
+
+But most of all is the greatness of Shakspere brought home to us by the
+simple record of the names of those who, from all quarters of the world,
+have come to this little Warwickshire town, to do homage to his memory.
+In all the world there is no shrine of pilgrimage like this, not only
+in the number of the visitants, but in their wonderful variety in
+character, temperament, and belief.
+
+[Illustration: 9091]
+
+The power of the spell shows the magician. The fading pencilled
+inscriptions which cover the walls of the chamber in Henley Street; the
+pages of the autograph books; the words in which visitors have recorded
+their impressions, attest the strange attractiveness and power of this
+one genius. Perhaps the most interesting of the autograph books is that
+which was removed from the house in Henley Street many years ago, and is
+now to be seen in the room over the seed-room, to which we have referred
+already. It seems to have been purchased and presented by an American
+gentleman, Mr. T. H. Perkins, of Boston, in 1812; and its pages contain
+the autographs of Sir Walter Scott, Lord Byron, Miss Edge-a Baillie,
+James Professors Sedgarence," "Arthur, Duke of Wellington," with a host
+beside. A thoughtful hour may well be spent in turning the well-worn
+pages, and in meditating on "the vanity and glory of literature."
+
+For there was one point in which even Shakspere failed, and the admiring
+reverence with which we join the throng of pilgrims to the shrine never
+passes into _worship_. We mean, of course, such "worship" as a
+merely human being may supposably claim; and, in view of the highest
+possibilities of our nature, we mark in Shakspere a certain limitation
+on the _heavenward_ side of his genius. The point at which intellectual
+sympathy and admiring affection pass into adoration, is the point
+at which we are raised _beyond ourselves_, and made conscious of the
+infinite. Never will our moral nature consent to unite with our reason
+and our heart in yielding its deepest worth, reverence, until it is
+uplifted into that sphere in which we can only walk by faith, and from
+which we can look down upon earthly things dwarfed and humbled by the
+comparison with the illimitable beyond.
+
+Now Shakspere's genius belongs essentially to the lower sphere. On
+earth he is the master. Every phase of nature, every subtilty of the
+intellect, every winding of the heart, is familiar to him. To use
+the comparison, often repeated because always felt to be so true, his
+wonderful mind was the mirror of all earthly shapes and various human
+energies. His own idiosyncracy never appears; the mirror is absolutely
+colourless and true. His genius is universal: in reading him we are but
+surveying the face of nature. To many a subtle criticism, the answer has
+been given, Shakspere surely never meant this! The reply may be, perhaps
+not, but nature meant it; and, therefore, we have a right to find it
+there! Such is the highest achievement of _literature_, whose business
+it is to reflect the facts of the world, of society, of the human
+heart--plentifully to declare the thing as it is, and compendiously
+to reduce this round world into the microcosm of a book. Here is
+Shakspere's transcendent power, and the secret of his supremacy among
+writers. He is simply the greatest literary man that ever lived.
+The transparency of the mirror, to return to the illustration, is
+maintained, not only by the absence of intrusive individuality, but by
+his perfect mastery over the instrument of expression. It is worth while
+to read his dramas over again, as a study of language alone. No writer
+has ever approached Shakspere in the precision, picturesqueness, and the
+finished, yet seemingly careless, beauty of his diction. His prose is
+even more marvellous than his poetry. In the sense in which we use the
+word "classic," his works may truly be called the foremost classic of
+the world.
+
+What, then, is the defect which will for ever prevent Shakspere from
+receiving the entire homage of the heart of man? In a sentence, the
+mirror is turned towards earth alone, and in its very completeness hides
+heaven from the view. "It would be impossible," says a contemporary
+writer, "to find a more remarkable example of a genius wide as the
+world, yet _not_ in any sense _above_ the world, than our great English
+poet's." And again, "it would be almost impossible to find any great
+Christian poet whose type of imagination is so entirely and singularly
+_contrasted_ with that of the Bible, or in whom that peculiar faculty
+which, for want of a better term, we are forced to call the thirst _for
+the supernatural_, is more remarkably absent."
+
+This statement we accept, in full remembrance of the morals manifold,
+the theological references, and Scriptural parallels, which are
+scattered through the poet's writings. Bishop Wordsworth, of
+St. Andrew's, and others, have spent much labour, not altogether
+unprofitably, in showing that Shakspere knew his Bible: while, oddly
+enough, among the passages expunged by the estimable Bowdler, the
+Biblical references occupy a considerable place, as though it had been
+profanity to introduce them in such a connexion! The most is made of
+Shakspere's religiousness by the present Archbishop of Dublin, in a
+sermon preached at Stratford-upon-Avon at the Shakspere Tercentenary, in
+1864.
+
+He knew the deep corruption of our fallen nature, the desperate
+wickedness of the heart of man; else he would never have put into the
+mouth of a prince of stainless life such a confession as this: 'I am
+myself indifferently honest: but yet I could accuse one of such things
+that it were better my mother had not borne me.... with more offences
+at my beck than I have thoughts to put them in, imagination to give
+them shape, or time to act them in.' He has set forth the scheme of
+our redemption in words as lovely as have ever flowed from the lips of
+uninspired man:--
+
+     'Why, all the souls that live were forfeit once,
+     And He that might the vantage best  have Look,
+     Found out the remedy.'
+
+He has put home to the holiest here their need of an infinite
+forgiveness from Him who requires truth in the inward parts:
+
+     'How would you be,
+     If He, which is the top of judgment, should
+     But judge you as you are?'
+
+"He was one who was well aware what a stewardship was his own in those
+marvellous gifts which had been entrusted to him, for he has himself
+told us:--
+
+     'Heaven does with us as we with torches do,
+     Not light them for themselves: for if our virtues
+     Did not go forth of us,'twere all alike
+     As if we had them not.'
+
+And again he has told us that
+
+     'Spirits are not finely touched
+     But for fine issues:'
+
+Assuredly not ignorant how finely his own had been touched, and what
+would be demanded from him in return. He was one who certainly knew that
+there is none so wise that he can 'circumvent God;' and that for a man,
+whether he be called early or late,
+
+     'Ripeness is all.'
+
+Who shall persuade us that he abode outside of that holy temple of our
+faith, whereof he has uttered such glorious things--admiring its beauty,
+but not himself entering to worship there?
+
+To the same effect, we may quote the preliminary sentence of Shakspere's
+will: "I commend my soul into the hands of God, my Creator, hoping,
+and assuredly believing, through the only merits of Jesus Christ, my
+Saviour, to be made partaker of life everlasting." With such a master of
+words, this avowal would be no mere formality. During Shakspere's last
+residence at Stratford, moreover, the town was under strong religious
+influences. Many a "great man in Israel," in fraternal visits to
+the Rev. Richard Byfield, the vicar, is said to have been hospitably
+entertained at New Place; and memorable evenings must have been spent in
+converse on the highest themes. In addition to all this, the following
+sonnet furnishes an interesting proof that the heart of Shakspere, at an
+earlier period, had not been unsusceptible to religious sentiments and
+aspirations:--
+
+     "Poor soul, the centre of my sinful earth,
+     Fooled by those rebel powers that thee array,
+     Why dost thou pine within, and suffer dearth,
+     Painting thy outward walls so costly gay?
+     Why so large cost, having so short a lease,
+     Dost thou upon thy fading mansion spend?
+     Shall worms, inheritors of thine excess,
+     Eat up thy charge? Is this thy body's end?
+     Then, soul, live thou upon thy body's loss,
+     And let that pine to aggravate thy store;
+     Buy terms divine in selling hours of dross;
+     Within be fed, without be rich no more:
+     So shalt thou feed on death, that feeds on men,
+     And, death once dead, there's no more dying then."
+     --_Sonnet_  146.
+
+All that such words suggest we gladly admit among the probabilities
+of Shakspere's unknown life. But in his dramas themselves we find no
+assured grasp of the highest spiritual truth, nothing to show that such
+truth controlled his views of life with imperial sway; little or
+nothing to uplift the reader from the play of human passions and the
+entanglement of human interests to the higher realms of Faith. It is
+the same Shakspere who reveals the depths of human corruption, and the
+nobleness of human excellence. But in portraying the latter, he stops
+short, and fails exactly where the higher light of faith would
+have enabled him to complete the delineation. His best and greatest
+characters are a law unto themselves: his men are passionate and strong;
+his women are beautiful, with a loveliness that scarcely ever reminds us
+of heaven: he has neither "raised the mortal to the skies," nor "brought
+the angel down."
+
+We turn, then, from Stratford-upon-Avon, feeling, as we have said,
+more deeply than ever the mystery that overhangs the career of the man,
+admiring, if possible, more heartily than ever the genius of the poet,
+and acknowledging, not without mournfulness, how much greater Shakspere
+might have been. For there was an inspiration within his reach that
+would have made him chief among the witnesses of God to men; and his
+magnificent endowments would then have been the richest offering ever
+placed by human hand upon that Altar which "sanctifieth both the giver
+and the gift."
+
+
+
+
+THE COUNTRY OF BUNYAN AND COWPER.
+
+[Illustration: 0096]
+
+[Illustration: 0097]
+
+|SOME of the most characteristic excursions through the gently
+undulating rural scenery which distinguishes so large a portion of the
+south midland district of England may be made along the towing-paths of
+the canals. The notion may appear unromantic; the pathway is artificial,
+yet it has now become rusticated and fringed with various verdure; some
+of the associations of the canal are anything but attractive--but upon
+the whole the charm is great. A wide, level path, driven straight across
+smiling valleys and by the side of hills, here and there skirting a fair
+park, and occasionally bringing some broad open landscape into
+sudden view, with the gleam and coolness of still waters ever at the
+traveller's side, affords him a succession of pictures which perhaps the
+"strong climber of the mountain's side" may disdain, but which to many
+will be all the more delightful, because they can be enjoyed with no
+more fatigue than that of a leisurely, health-giving stroll.
+
+It was by such a walk as this through some of the pleasantest parts
+of Hertfordshire that we first made our way to Berkhampstead--the
+birthplace of William Cowper, turning from the canal bank to the
+embowered fragments of the castle, and through the quiet little town to
+the "public way,"--the pretty rural bye-road where the "gardener Robin"
+drew his little master to school:
+
+     "Delighted with the bauble coach, and wrapped
+     In scarlet mantle warm, and velvet capped,"
+
+while the fond mother watched her darling from the "nursery window," the
+memory of which one pathetic poem has made immortal.
+
+In a well-known sentence, Lord Macaulay affirms in reference to the
+seventeenth century, "We are not afraid to say, that though there were
+many clever men in England during the latter half of that century, there
+were only two minds which possessed the imaginative faculty in a very
+eminent degree. One of these minds produced the _Paradise Lost_; the
+other, the _Pilgrim's Progress_." Similarly, with regard to the brilliant
+literary period which began towards the close of the eighteenth century,
+"we are not afraid to say," that although there were many poets in
+England of no mean order, there were but two to whom it was given to
+view nature simply and sincerely, so as adequately to express "the
+delight of man in the works of God." One of these poets produced the
+_Task_, the other the _Exclusion_.
+
+[Illustration: 0098]
+
+When Macaulay wrote, the place of Bunyan in literature was still held
+a little doubtful; the place of Cowper among poets is not wholly
+unquestioned now. Some are impatient of his simplicity, others scorn his
+piety, many cannot escape, as they read, from the shadow of the darkness
+in which he wrote. But we cannot doubt that, when the coming reaction
+from feverishness and heathenism in poetry shall have set in, the name
+of Cowper will win increasing honour; men will search for themselves
+into the source of those bright phrases, happy allusions, "jewels five
+words long, that on the stretched forefinger of all time sparkle for
+ever," for which the world is often unconsciously indebted to his
+poems; while his incomparable letters will remain as the finest and
+most brilliant specimens of an art which penny-postage, telegrams, and
+post-cards have rendered almost extinct in England.
+
+No one at any rate will wonder now that we should turn awhile from more
+outwardly striking or enchanting scenes to the ground made classic and
+sacred to the English Christian by the memories of Bunyan and Cowper. We
+may associate their names, not only from their brotherhood in faith and
+teaching, but from the coincidence which identifies their respective
+homes with one and the same river, and blends their memories with the
+fair still landscapes through which it steals.
+
+[Illustration: 0099]
+
+The Ouse, most meandering of English streams, waters a country almost
+perfectly level throughout, though here and there fringed by the
+undulations of the receding Chilterns;--with a picturesqueness derived
+from rich meadows, broad pastures with flowery hedgerows, and tall
+stately trees; while in many places the still river expands into a
+miniature lake, with water lilies floating upon its bosom. Among scenes
+like these the great dreamer passed his youth, in his village home at
+Elstow; often visiting the neighbouring town of Bedford, where we may
+picture him as leaning in many a musing fit over the old Ouse Bridge, on
+which the town prison then stood. How little, did John Bunyan then think
+what those prison walls would become to him and to the world! The bridge
+is gone, the town has become a thriving modern bustling place; only the
+river remains, and the country walk to Elstow is little changed. There
+is the cottage which tradition identifies with Bunyan: with the church
+and the belfry, so memorable in the record of his experiences, the
+village green on which in his thoughtless youth he used to play at
+"tip-cat:" there is nothing more to see, but it is impossible to pace
+through those homely ways without remembering how once the place was
+luminous to his awe-stricken spirit with "the light that never was on
+sea or shore," and the landscape on which his inward eye was fixed was
+that which was closed in by the great white throne.
+
+[Illustration: 9100]
+
+It is remarkable that there is in Bunyan's writings so little of
+local colouring. His fields, hills and valleys are not of earth. The
+"wilderness of this world" through which he wandered was something quite
+apart from the Bedfordshire flats, although indeed "the den" on which
+he lighted is but too truthful a representation of the prison on the old
+Ouse Bridge. Even where familiar scenes may have supplied the groundwork
+of the picture, incidental touches show that his soul was beyond
+them. His hillsides are covered with "vineyards;" the meadows by the
+riverside are fair with "lilies;" the fruits in the orchard have mystic
+healing virtue. The scenery of Palestine rather than of Bedfordshire is
+present to his view, and his well-loved Bible has contributed as much
+to his descriptions as any reminiscences of his excursions around his
+native place. *
+
+     * It has recently been argued, with some plausibility, that
+     Bunyan may have derived some of his pictures of scenery from
+     his preaching excursions to the Surrey hills and the Sussex
+     Weald (see pp. 33-35), where he would often cross the track
+     of "the Canterbury pilgrims." "It is said that he frequently
+     selected the hilly districts of South Surrey as his hiding-
+     place; two houses, one on Quarry Hill, Guildford, and the
+     other known as Horn Hatch, on Shalford Common, being pointed
+     out as among those he occupied.".... "The struggles of the
+     pedestrian through the Shalford swamp might have given
+     Bunyan the original idea of the _Slough of Despond_; the
+     Surrey Hills he loved so well might be called the
+     _Delectable Mountains_; St. Martha's Hill would answer
+     perfectly his description of the _Hill Difficulty_; the Vale
+     of Albury, amid the picturesque scenery of which he passed
+     so many days of true humiliation, might be considered the
+     _Valley of Humiliation_; and lastly, the name _Doubting
+     Castle_ actually exists to this day, near the Pilgrims' Way,
+     being approached, as its namesake was supposed lo be, by a
+     path near Box Hill. It is right, however, to state that the
+     antiquity of the last name quoted is not verified."--Notes
+     on the Pilgrims' Way in West Surrey; by Captain E. Renouard
+     James, R.E. Stanford, 1871.
+
+But it was after all in no earthly walks or haunts of men that he found
+the prototypes of his immortal pictures. They are idealised experiences,
+and from the Wicket gate to the Land of Beulah they all represent what
+he had seen and felt only in his soul.* No doubt the people are in
+many cases less abstract. A very remarkable edition of the _Pilgrim's
+Progress_, published some years ago by an artist of rare promise, since
+deceased, portrayed the personages of the allegory in the very guise
+in which Bunyan must often have met their originals up and down in
+Bedfordshire. Such faces may be seen to-day. We ourselves thought we saw
+Mr. Honesty, in a brown coat, looking at some bullocks in the Bedford
+market-place. Ignorance tried to entice us into a theological discussion
+at the little country-side inn where we rested for the night: the next
+morning, as we passed along, Mercy was knitting at a farmhouse door,
+while young Mr. Brisk, driving by in his gig, made her an elaborate bow,
+of which we were glad to see she took the slightest possible notice.
+
+     * The impression made upon a passing traveller through
+     Bunyan's Country is well expressed in some verses entitled
+
+Bedford is now at least rich in memorials of its illustrious citizen and
+prisoner for conscience' sake. The Bunyan Statue, presented by the Duke
+of Bedford, was erected in 1874, and is one of the noblest and most
+characteristic out-of-door monuments in England. It has indeed been
+suggested that Bunyan might more appropriately have been represented
+in the attitude of writing than in that of preaching; but it should be
+remembered that the latter was the work he chose and loved, and that
+his greatest works were penned during the period of enforced silence.
+It is therefore with a fine appropriateness that he is represented as
+standing, as if in the presence of some vast congregation, the Bible
+in his hand, his eyes uplifted to heaven, while upon the pedestal are
+carved his own words, expressive of his own highest ideal.
+
+            "THROUGH BEDFORDSHIRE BY RAIL.
+
+  "Far behind we leave the clangour of the smoky northern town;
+  Now' we hurry through a country all brown-green and sweet grey-brown:
+  Landscapes gently undulating where light shadows softly pass,
+  Quiet rivers silent flowing through the rarely-trodden grass.
+
+  Here and there a few sheep grazing 'neath the hedgerow poplars tall.
+  Here and there a brown-thatched homestead or a rustic cottage small;
+  As we rush on road or iron through the fields on either hand,
+  In the autumn twilight gravely smiles John Bunyan's land.
+
+  More than all the fells and mountains we have passed upon our way,
+  More than e'en that giant city we shall greet ere close of day,
+  Touches us the tender beauty, soft, harmonious, simple, quaint,
+  Of these fields and winding bye-lanes where yet linger, sweet and faint,
+  Echoes of long-vanished ages, rustic homes one might have seen
+  In the old days when John Bunyan played at cat on Elstow Green,
+  Meadows still as when he wandered seeking God; while on each hand,
+  Gravely smiling in the twilight, lay John Bunyan's land.
+
+  Tender as the closing music of the Mighty Dreamer's lay,
+  Lies the country gently round us, all brown-green and soft brown-grey.
+  Tender are our thoughts towards it, as we ponder o'er the book
+  That has travelled through the wide world from this homely, rural nook.
+
+  Tenderly we name John Bunyan, martyr, poet, hero, saint,
+  Faithful pastor, strong and loving, like his Bedford, simple, quaint.
+  Ah! the happy tears half blind us as we gaze on either hand
+  O'er the gravely smiling beauty of John Bunyan's land."--Lizzie Aldridge.
+
+[Illustration: 0102]
+
+No visitor to Bedford will neglect the rapidly accumulating Bunyan
+Museum, comprising not only some simple relics of his lifetime, as
+his staff, jug, and the like, with books bearing his autograph--his
+priceless Bible and Foxes Martyrs--but the various editions of his
+works, and in particular a collection of the illustrations of the
+_Pilgrim's Progress_, from the first rude designs to the latest products
+of artistic skill. These are stored with reverent care, in connexion
+with the place of worship occupied by the Christian Church to which he
+ministered, and now known as Bunyan Meeting. To this edifice, likewise,
+a pair of massive bronze gates have been contributed by the Duke of
+Bedford, with panels illustrative of scenes from the allegory.
+
+[Illustration: 0104]
+
+Altogether, if we have found in the neighbourhood of Bedford no
+Delectable Mountains, nor Valley of Humiliation, nor Land of Beulah,
+we have at least seen much pleasant English scenery, a fertile,
+well-cultivated country, and in the very absence of more outwardly
+exciting prospects, have had the more "leisure of thought" to dwell in
+the ideal world which Bunyan has made as familiar to us as our own home.
+
+[Illustration: 8105]
+
+From Bedford to Olney the distance by rail is between ten and eleven
+miles; by "the sinuous Ouse" probably between thirty and forty.
+
+Few travellers, therefore, will care to ascend by the river banks, and
+the frequent shallows preclude the thought of a boating excursion, which
+otherwise would by its leisurely length be some preparation for our
+exchange of the associations of the seventeenth century for those of the
+eighteenth. One hundred and three years separated the birthday of Bunyan
+from that of Cowper.
+
+The interval marks the greatest advance that had ever been made in the
+history of English thought and freedom. But in the essentials of faith
+and teaching the two men were one; nor in some of their experiences were
+they very dissimilar. Both were sensitive, conscientious, and often in
+the midst of their holiest longings after God were most terror-stricken
+by thoughts of the wrath to come. Some pages of Bunyan's Autobiography
+may compare in their passionate anxiety with the annals of Cowper's
+despair. The great dreamer soon escaped from Doubting Castle to the
+Delectable Mountains; but for the poet, the dungeon bars remained
+unloosed until the final summons came to the everlasting hills. *
+
+     * "From the moment of Cowper's death, till the coffin was
+     closed," writes his friend and relative Mr. Johnson, "the
+     expression with which his countenance had settled was that
+     of calmness and composure, mingled, as it were, with _holy
+     surprise."--Southey's Life._
+
+The sensitiveness of Cowper to external influences was so great, as to
+raise the doubt whether other scenes and a different atmosphere might
+not have prevented many of his sorrows.
+
+[Illustration: 9106]
+
+On the death of his father, when the poet had reached the age of
+twenty-five, he touchingly and expressively tells us that it had never
+till then occurred to him "that a parson has no fee-simple in the house
+and glebe he occupies. There was," he says, "neither tree, nor gate, nor
+stile in all that country to which I did not feel a relation, and the
+house itself I preferred to a palace." To Huntingdon, where he first
+made acquaintance with the Ouse, and became an inmate with the Unwins,
+he clung very lovingly, although he does not rate the charms of the
+neighbourhood very highly. "My lot is cast in a country where we have
+neither woods nor commons nor pleasant prospects: all flat and insipid;
+in the summer adorned only winter covered with a flood." But it was at
+Olney that Cowper found such scenery as he could appreciate and love.
+"He does not," in the words of Sir James Mackintosh, "describe the
+most beautiful scenes in nature; he discovers what is most beautiful in
+ordinary scenes."
+
+[Illustration: 8106]
+
+In fact, Cowper saw very few beautiful scenes, but his poetical eye, and
+his moral heart, detected beauty in the sandy flats of Buckinghamshire."
+The walk, especially, from the quiet little town to the village of
+Weston Underwood, he has made classic among English scenes by the
+description in the first book of the _Task_.
+
+Leaving Olney, where, in truth, there is not much to detain us, save the
+poet's home--the same in outward aspect, at least, as during the twenty
+years spent by him within its walls,--and the summer-house in the garden
+where he sat and wrote, while Mrs. Unwin knitted, and Puss, Tiny, and
+Bess sported upon the grass--we may climb the little eminence above the
+river, and with an admiration like that of the poet ninety years ago,
+"dwell upon the scene." "Here is the "distant plough slow moving," and
+
+[Illustration: 0107]
+
+     "Here Ouse, slow winding through a level plain
+     Of spacious meads, with cattle sprinkled o'er,
+     Conducts the eye along his sinuous course Delighted.
+
+     There, fast rooted in their bank,
+     Stand, never overlooked, our favourite elms.
+     That screen the herdsman's solitary hut;
+     While far beyond, and overthwart the stream,
+     That, as with molten glass, inlays the vale,
+     The sloping land recedes into the clouds;
+     Displaying on its varied side the grace
+     Of hedgerow beauties numberless, square tower,
+     Tall spire, from which the sound of cheerful bells
+     Just undulates upon the listening ear;
+     Groves,  heathes and smoking villages remote."
+
+We are now at the upper corner of the Throckmorton Park. Pursuing our
+way, we listen to the music of "nature inanimate," of rippling brook or
+sighing wind, and of "nature animate," of "ten thousand warblers"
+that so soothed the poet's soul. A dip in the walk from where the elms
+enclose the upper park, and the chestnuts spread their shade, brings us
+into a grassy dell where by "a rustic bridge" we cross to the opposite
+slope, reascend to the "alcove," survey from the "speculative height"
+the pasture with its "fleecy tenants," the "sunburnt hayfield," the
+"woodland scene," the trees, each with its own hue, as so exquisitely
+depicted by the poet, while Ouse in the distance "glitters in the sun."
+At length the great avenue is reached.
+
+     "How airy and how light the graceful arch,
+     Yet awful as the consecrated roof
+     Re-echoing pious anthems! while beneath,
+     The chequered earth seems restless as a flood
+     Brushed by the wind.
+     So sportive is the light
+     Shot through the boughs, it dances as they dance,
+     Shadow and sunshine intermingling quick,
+     And darkening and enlightening, as the leaves
+     Play wanton, every moment, every spot.
+
+[Illustration: 9108]
+
+Such were the scenes dearest to Cowper, and dear to many still for
+his sake. T rue, they are not unlike others. A thousand scenes are
+as beautiful, and many an avenue up and down in English parks is of a
+nobler stateliness. Yet may this be visited with a special delight, for
+its own sake and for Cowper's. It is something to be able to look with
+a poet's eye, to have his thoughts and words so familiar to memory as
+to blend with the current of our own, as if spontaneously. We learn anew
+how to observe, and our emotions become almost unconsciously ennobled
+and refined.
+
+It is characteristic of Cowper's mind that scenery of a loftier and
+more exciting order had a disquieting effect upon him. Of his journey
+to Eastham, in Sussex, to visit his friend Hayley, he writes: "I indeed
+myself was a little daunted by the tremendous height of the Sussex
+hills, in comparison with which all that I had seen elsewhere are dwarfs.
+But I only was alarmed; Mrs. Unwin had no such sensations, but was
+always cheerful from the beginning of our expedition to the end of it."
+And again: "The charms of the place, uncommon as they are, have not in
+the least alienated my affections from Weston. The genius of that
+place, suits me better; it has an air of snug concealment, in which a
+disposition like mine feels peculiarly gratified, whereas here, I
+see from every window woods like forests, and hills like mountains--a
+wildness, in short, that rather increases my natural melancholy." A
+little while before, on Mr. Newton's return from the glories of Cheddar,
+Cowper writes: "I would that I could see some of the mountains which you
+have seen, especially because Dr. Johnson has pronounced that no man is
+qualified to be a poet who has never seen a mountain. But mountains I
+shall never see, unless perhaps in a dream, or unless there are such in
+heaven. Nor those," the poor, heart-stricken poet makes haste to add,
+"unless I receive twice as much mercy as ever yet was shown to any man."
+
+[Illustration: 0109]
+
+The last sentence prepares us for East Dereham, with its sad
+associations. But even from these we need not shrink. The homely Norfolk
+town brought to the troubled soul deliverance. Few, it may be, would
+turn aside to visit the place for its own sake; but the remembrance of
+the poet may well attract. The house in which he died has been replaced
+by a Congregational Church bearing his name--twin brother, so to speak,
+though with scarcely the same appropriateness, to Bunyan Chapel in
+Bedford. But it is in the church where he lies buried, and in the tomb
+raised to his memory, that the true interest lies. Never was death more
+an angel of mercy than to this darkly-shadowed spirit. We all know the
+words in which the most gifted of poetesses, at "Cowper's Grave," has
+set the thoughts of many Christian hearts to words that deserve to be
+immortal:
+
+     "Like a sick child that knoweth not his mother while she blesses,
+     And drops upon his burning brow the coolness of her kisses:
+     That turns his fevered eyes around--_My mother! where's my mother?_
+     As if such tender words and looks could come from any other!
+     The fever gone, with leaps of heart he sees her bending o'er him,
+     Her face all pale from watchful love, the unweary love she bore him!
+     Thus woke the poet from the dream his life's long fever gave him,
+     Beneath those deep pathetic eyes, which closed in death to save him!
+     Thus? oh, not thus! no type of earth could image that awaking,
+     Wherein he scarcely heard the chant of seraphs round him breaking,
+     Or felt the new immortal throb of soul from body parted,
+     But fell those eyes alone, and knew. My Saviour! not deserted!"
+
+[Illustration: 0110]
+
+[Illustration: 0112]
+
+
+
+
+THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE
+
+[Illustration: 0113]
+
+|THE traveller into Derbyshire, unaccustomed to the district, may not
+unnaturally inquire for "the Peak," which he has been taught to consider
+one of the chief English mountains, and the name of which has always
+suggested to him something like a pyramid of rock,--an English
+Matterhorn. He will be soon undeceived, and then may paradoxically
+declare the peculiarity of "the Peak District" to be that there is no
+Peak! The range so called is a bulky mass of millstone grit, rising
+irregularly from the limestone | formation which occupies the southern
+part of Derbyshire, and extending in long spurs, or arms, north and
+north-east into Yorkshire as far as Sheffield, and west and south into
+Cheshire and Staffordshire. The plateau is covered by wild moorland,
+clothed with fern, moss and heather, and broken up by deep hollows and
+glens, through which streamlets descend, each through its own belt of
+verdure, from the spongy morasses above, forming in their course many a
+minute but picturesque waterfall. The pedestrian who establishes himself
+in the little inn at Ashopton, will have the opportunity of exploring
+many a breezy height and romantic glen; while, if he has strength of
+limb and of lungs to make his way to Kinderscout, the highest point of
+all, he will breathe, at the elevation of not quite two thousand feet,
+as fresh and exhilarating an atmosphere as can be found anywhere in
+these islands; the busy smoky city of Manchester being at a distance,
+"as the crow flies," of little more than fifteen miles! It is no wonder
+that a select company of hard-worked men, who have lighted on this nook
+among the hills, having a taste for natural history, resort hither year
+after year, finding a refreshment in the repeated visit equal at least
+to that which their fellow-citizens enjoy, at greater cost, in the
+terraces of Buxton, or on the gigantic slope of Matlock Bank.
+
+Where the limestone emerges from under the mass of grit, the scenery
+altogether changes. For roughly-rounded, dark-coloured rocks, covered
+with ling and bracken, now appear narrow glens, bold escarped edges,
+cliffs splintered into pinnacles and pierced by wonderful caves
+traversed by hidden streams. Of these caves the "Peak Cavern" at
+Castleton is the largest, that of the "Blue John Mine" the most
+beautiful, from its veins of Derbyshire spar.
+
+The tourist, however, who confines himself to the Peak District proper,
+with its immediately outlying scenery, will have a very inadequate view
+of the charms of Derbyshire. He can scarcely do better than begin at the
+other extremity, ascending the Dove through its limestone valley as far
+as Buxton, thence taking rail to Chapel-en-le-Frith, expatiating over
+the Peak moorlands according to time and inclination, descending to the
+limestone region again at Castleton, and following the Derwent in its
+downward course to Ambergate, pausing in his way to visit Chatsworth and
+Haddon Hall, and to stay awhile at Matlock.
+
+Having thus planned our own journey, our starting-point was Ashbourne,
+a quiet, pretty little town at the extremity of a branch railway.
+There was not much in the town itself to detain us: we could only pay
+a hurried visit to the church, whose beautiful spire, 212 feet high,
+is sometimes called the Pride of the Peak. There are some striking
+monuments; and among them one with an inscription of almost unequalled
+mournfulness. It is to an only child, a daughter: "She was in form and
+intellect most exquisite. The unfortunate parents ventured their all on
+this frail bark, and the wreck was total." Never was plaint of sorrowing
+despair more touching. Let us hope, both that the parents' darling was
+a lamb in the Good Shepherd's fold, and that the sorrowing father and
+mother found at length that there can be no total wreck to those whose
+treasure is in heaven!
+
+A night's refreshing rest at the inn, where several nationalities
+oddly combine to make up one complex sign--the fierce Saracen, the
+thick-lipped negro, the English huntsman in his coat of Lincoln
+green!--and we sallied forth on a glorious day of early autumn to make
+our first acquaintance with Dovedale. Leaving the town at the extremity
+furthest from the railway station, we found ourselves on a well-kept,
+undulating road, skirted by fair pastures on either hand; the absence
+of cornfields being a very marked feature in the landscape. Turning into
+pleasant country lanes to the left, we soon reached the garden gate of
+a finely-situated rural inn, the "Peveril ut' the Peak," whence a short
+cut would have led us over the brow of the hill into Dovedale; but we
+were anxious to visit Ilam, and therefore made a détour as far as the
+"Izaak Walton," so well known to brothers of the "gentle craft." A
+little farther, and we were in the identical Happy Valley of Rasselas,
+where we found a charming little village, with schoolhouse and
+drinking-fountain, park and hall and church, and every cottage a
+picture.
+
+[Illustration: 0116]
+
+Two little rivers meet here, one of them the Manifold, the other and
+larger the Dove; and after a hurried view of the lovely vale, we lost no
+time in making our way to the entrance of the far-famed Dale. As most of
+our readers will know, the Dove divides Staffordshire from Derbyshire:
+we took the Derbyshire side, entering at a little gate on the river
+bank, and leisurely and with many a pause pursued a walk with which
+surely in England there are few to compare. The river is a shallow,
+sparkling stream, with many a pool dear to the angler, and hurrying
+down, babbling over pebbles, and broken in its course by many a tiny
+waterfall. On both sides rise tall limestone cliffs, splintered into
+countless fantastic forms--rocky walls, towers, and pinnacles, and in
+one place a natural archway near the summit, leading to the uplands
+beyond. And all up the sloping sides, and wherever root-hold could be
+obtained on pinnacle and crag, were clustered shrubs and trees of
+every shade of foliage, with the first touch of autumn to heighten the
+exquisite variety by tints which as yet suggested only afar off the
+thought of decay. The solitude of the scene served but to enhance its
+loveliness. For that road by the river side is no broad well-beaten
+track. No vehicle can pass, and even the pedestrian has sometimes to
+pick his way with difficulty. The stillness, on the day of our visit,
+was unbroken save for the murmur of the water, the twitter of the birds,
+and the rustling of the branches in the gentle breeze. The blue sky
+overhead, and the sunlight casting shadows upon the cliffs and the
+stream, completed the picture; and if the memory of Izaak Walton and
+Charles Cotton haunted their favourite stream, it so happened that we
+encountered none of their disciples.
+
+Many travellers leave the glen at Mill Dale, where a pleasant country
+lane to the right enables them to gain the high road between Ashbourne
+and Buxton. Time and strength permitting, however, we would strongly
+advise the tourist to make his way by the river banks to Hartington,
+passing through Beresford Dale, where at Pike Pool, represented in the
+frontispiece to this chapter, all the beauties of the Dove Valley are
+concentrated at one view. A limestone obelisk stands in the middle of
+the river, with a background of rich foliage, just touched, at the
+time of our visit, with autumnal hues, while the clear water eddied and
+sparkled around its base. This pool was the favourite resort of Walton
+and his friend Cotton. Many allusions to the spot will be found in _The
+Complete Angler_; and the comfortable inn at Hartington, reached from
+Beresford Dale by a walk for about a mile through pleasant meadows,
+bears Charles Cotton's name.
+
+At Hartington, the high road to Buxton may be taken; or, far better, the
+traveller may make his way to the famous watering-place by the plateau
+which divides the valley of the Dove from that of its tributary
+Manifold; he will then descend to the former valley near Longnor, and
+thence may climb to Axe Edge, a great outlying southerly branch or spur
+of the gritstone, from which the Dove has its rise. Parting with this
+lovely river at its very fountain-head, we find it difficult to believe
+that so much beauty and even grandeur can have been included in the
+twenty miles' course of a little English stream, and are ready to
+endorse the enthusiastic tribute of Cotton:
+
+     "The rapid Garonne and the winding Seine
+     Are both too mean.
+
+     Beloved Dove, with thee
+     To claim priority:
+
+     Nay, Thame and Isis, when conjoined, submit
+     And lay their trophies at thy silver feet."
+
+[Illustration: 0118]
+
+At Buxton, easily reached from Axe Edge, we found every variety of
+excursion and other enjoyments open to us, "for a consideration." The
+Derbyshire dales that may be easily explored from this point are very
+fine; and the whole of the Peak is open to the tourist. We could give,
+however, but a hurried glance to these manifold beauties, being bent
+upon descending the Derwent in some such leisurely fashion as that
+in which we had ascended the Dove. We had, indeed, the railway now to
+facilitate the latter half of our journey--no slight matter! and
+yet this had the effect of bringing multitudes of travellers like
+ourselves, so that the end of the Derbyshire tour was taken in company
+with a crowd. For a time, however, we were comparatively alone to
+Castleton, by Mam Tor, the wonderful "Shivering Mountain," where the
+sandstone and mountain limestone meet;--so called from the loose shale
+which is constantly descending its side, and which, in popular belief,
+does not diminish the mountain's bulk: thence down through the Winnyats
+or Windgates, a picturesque pass between lofty cliffs, taking its name
+from the winds which are said to rage almost ceaselessly through the
+narrow defile, although at the time of our visit the air was calm,
+while the lights and shadows of a perfect autumn day beautified the grey
+limestone crags.
+
+[Illustration: 0119]
+
+The ruins of Peveril's Castle, and the gloomy caves of Castleton, of
+course were visited. Then began the journey down the Derwent, embracing
+pretty Hather-sage, with its ancient camps, tumuli, and other remains
+whose origin can only be conjectured. Here is the traditionary grave of
+Robin Hood's gigantic comrade, "Little John." A "Gospel Stone" in this
+village, once used as a pulpit, perpetuates the memory of the open-air
+harvest and thanksgiving services of past generations; while in the
+village of Eyam, three or four miles lower down, the "Pulpit Rock," in
+a natural dell still called a "church," brings to mind the heroism of a
+devoted pastor, who during the plague of 1665, when it would have been
+dangerous to meet in any building, daily assembled his parishioners in
+this place to pray with them, to teach and to console.
+
+[Illustration: 9120]
+
+The traveller will not regret the slight détour from the road by the
+river to visit this most interesting spot; and he may return to the
+Derwent by Middleton Dale, another magnificent pass through limestone
+cliffs. Hence he will soon reach Edensor, the "model village," and
+Chatsworth, "the Palace of the Peak." The splendours of the park and
+mansion are so familiar to thousands,--to whom in fact "the Peak
+of Derbyshire" is a name suggestive only of Chatsworth and Haddon
+Hall,--that we need attempt no description here. The visitor may follow
+his own bent, whether to wander in the stately park, or to join the
+hourly procession along the silken-roped avenue through the corridors
+and apartments of the Hall, with due admiration of the pictures,
+the statuary and the wonderful carving; thence passing out into the
+conservatory and the gardens, where nature has done so much, and art so
+much more. Truly days at Chatsworth are among the bright days of life,
+especially if there be time and opportunity also to visit Haddon Hall,
+that almost unique specimen of an old baronial English home, empty and
+dismantled now, but carefully preserved and beautiful for situation,
+upon the Derbyshire Wye, which here comes down from its own limestone
+glens and dales through the pretty town of Bakewell, to unite at Rowsley
+with the Derwent.
+
+At this junction, too, the traveller comes upon the railway, and will be
+tempted to pass only too rapidly by the beauties of the Derwent Valley
+between Rowsley and Ambergate. We can but assure him that he will lose
+much by so doing; that Darley Dale and Moor are very beautiful, and
+that the tourist who rushes on to Matlock Bath without staying to climb
+Matlock Bank does an injustice to Derbyshire scenery: while if he be
+in pursuit of health, he can find no better resting-place than at the
+renowned | hydropathic establishments which occupy the heights.
+
+[Illustration: 0121]
+
+Still, most who are in search of the picturesque will prefer to seek it
+at Matlock Bath, where indeed they will not be left to discover it
+for themselves. In this famous spot the beauties of nature are all
+catalogued, ticketed, and forced on the attention by signboards and
+handbills. Here is the path to "the beautiful scenery" (admission so
+much); there "the Romantic Rocks" (again a fee); there the ferry to "the
+Lovers' Walk," a charming path by the river-side, overshadowed by trees,
+and so on.
+
+[Illustration: 0123]
+
+Petrifying wells offer their rival attractions, and caves in the
+limestone are repeatedly illuminated during the season for the delight
+of excursionists. The market for fossils, spar, photographs, ferns, and
+all the wonderful things that nobody buys except at watering-places, is
+brisk and incessant. But when we have added to all this that the heights
+are truly magnificent, the woods and river very charming, and the
+arrangements of the hotels most homelike and satisfactory, it will not
+be wondered at that the balance of pleasure remained largely in favour
+of Matlock.
+
+[Illustration: 0124]
+
+It would be certainly pleasanter to discover for one's self that here
+is "the Switzerland of England," than to have the fact thrust upon
+attention by placards at every turn; but perhaps there are those to
+whom the information thus afforded is welcome, while the enormous
+highly-coloured pictures of valley, dale and crag which adorn every
+railway station on the line, no doubt perform their part in attracting
+and instructing visitors. They need certainly be at no loss to occupy
+their time to advantage, whether their stay be longer or shorter.
+
+[Illustration: 0125]
+
+Everything is made easy for them. To all the noblest points of view,
+easy paths have been constructed: the fatigue of mountain-climbing is
+reduced to a minimum; and certainly the landscapes disclosed even from a
+moderate elevation by the judicious pruning and removal of intercepting
+foliage, are such as to repay most richly the moderate effort requisite
+for the ascent. Lord Byron writes, that there are views in Derbyshire
+"as noble as in Greece or Switzerland." He was probably thinking of the
+prospect from Masson, from which the whole valley, with its boundary of
+tors, or limestone cliffs, is outspread before the observer, while the
+river sparkles beneath, reflecting masses of foliage, with depths of
+heavenly blue between; and beyond the scarred and broken ramparts of the
+glen, purple moorlands stretch away to the high and curving line of the
+horizon.
+
+The traveller southward, who has accompanied us thus far, if yet unsated
+with beauty, will be wise in taking the road from Matlock to Cromford,
+the next station, instead of proceeding by railway. The short walk
+or drive between the limestone cliffs, although the great majority
+of passengers pass it by unnoticed, is really, for its length, as
+magnificent as almost any of the dales in the higher part of the
+country. At Cromford there is the stately mansion of the Arkwrights,
+and a little beyond, on the other side of the railway, is Lea Hurst,
+the home of Miss Florence Nightingale, a name that will be gratefully
+enshrined in the memories of the English people, even when war shall
+be no more. From this spot the valley gradually broadens, still
+richly-wooded up the heights, with fair meadows on the river banks. And
+so we reach Ambergate, where we re-enter the busy world, bearing with us
+ineffaceable memories of the beauties and the wonders of "the Peak."
+
+[Illustration: 0126]
+
+[Illustration: 0128]
+
+
+
+
+WESTWARD HO!
+
+[Illustration: 0129]
+
+Almost every place of popular resort has its "season," when its charms
+are supposed to be at their highest, and the annual migration of
+visitors sets in. The period is not always determined by climate or
+calendar; and such is the caprice of fashion, that many a lovely spot
+is left well-nigh solitary during the weeks of its full perfection,
+the crowd beginning to gather when the beauties of the place are on the
+wane. Tastes will undoubtedly differ as to the most favourable time to
+visit one or another beautiful scene; but none, we should imagine,
+will dispute our opinion that the best season for travel in the west of
+England is in the early spring. We leave the north, with patches of snow
+yet on the hills, and the first leaflets struggling in vain to
+unfold themselves on the blackened branches; or, if we hail from the
+metropolis, we gladly turn our backs on wind-swept streets and bleak
+suburban roads, to find ourselves in two or three hours speeding beneath
+soft sunshine, between far-extending orchards, in all the loveliness of
+their delicate bloom, while the grass is of a richer tint, the blue sky,
+dappled with fleecy clouds, of a more exquisite purity, and instead
+of the slowly-relaxing grasp of winter, the promise of summer already
+thrills the air. "The flowers appear on the earth; the time of the
+singing of birds is come, and the voice of the turtle is heard in our
+land."
+
+But whither shall we direct our steps? It is the perfection of comfort
+in travelling to have time at command. We need be in no haste to leave
+the apple-blossomy valleys of Somersetshire, even for the woods and
+cliffs of Devon; and if the tourist would visit a spot which, in its
+own way, is unique in England, let him turn aside, as we did, soon after
+leaving Bristol, to a rift in the Mendip Hills, and make his way through
+the pass between the Cheddar Cliffs. A more majestic scene it would
+be difficult to find. For actual magnitude is only one element of
+sublimity. The biggest mountain is not always the grandest, just as the
+finest landscape is not always that which embraces the greatest number
+of square miles. The Himalayas are said to be far less imposing than the
+Alps. The width of the valleys, the more gradual slope of the mountains,
+and the greater distance from the eye, detract from their apparent
+height as compared with Mont Blanc or the Matterhorn. This little gorge
+of the Mendips affords a striking illustration of the same kind.
+The cliffs are less than five hundred feet high; yet under certain
+conditions of atmosphere we have had as deep a sense of sublimity, and
+under others as keen a sense of beauty here, as in districts where the
+altitude is to be reckoned by thousands of feet instead of hundreds.
+
+The approach to Cheddar is by a short railway from Yatton, on the
+Bristol and Exeter line, or by the road, which winds through a rich
+valley. The hills on either side are green to their very summits, from
+which fine views may be gained of the Bristol Channel, near Clevedon and
+Weston. One of them, Dolbury, is crowned by a remarkably fine British
+camp, enclosing within its ample area a Roman stronghold. Wrington, the
+birthplace of John Locke, is passed. Glastonbury Tor comes into view,
+and remains a conspicuous object for the rest of the journey.
+
+Immediately behind the village of Cheddar rises the bare grey ridge
+of the Mendips. Cut sheer through it from summit to base is an
+extraordinary cleft. The road which winds along the bottom of the
+ravine is in some places only wide enough to allow two vehicles to pass
+abreast. On the right-hand side a perpendicular wall of rock rises to
+the height of about four hundred and thirty feet. Its surface is
+broken by enormous buttresses, like the towers of some Titanic castle,
+surmounted by spires and pinnacles, whose light airy grace contrasts
+finely with the massive walls on which they rest. Down the face of the
+cliff long festoons of ivy and creeping plants wave to and fro. The
+scanty soil on the ledges and in the fissures is bright with wild
+flowers. The yew and mountain ash, dwarfed into mere shrubs, seem to
+cling with a precarious foothold to the face of the rock. Far above us
+innumerable jackdaws and crows chatter noisily, and hawks, with which
+the district abounds, soar across the narrow strip of sky overhead. The
+opposite side of the ravine is less precipitous, though even here it is
+steep enough to task the energies of the climber, and grand masses of
+rock stand out from the hill-side. Conspicuous amongst these is the Lion
+Rock, so called from its extraordinary resemblance to a crouching lion.
+This district abounds in caverns, many of them of great extent and
+beauty, which will well repay a visit. Local tradition affirms that one
+reaches as far as Wookey Hole, a distance of ten miles.
+
+[Illustration: 8131]
+
+The devoted and self-denying efforts of Mrs. Hannah More must not be
+forgotten in connection with Cheddar. When residing at Barley Wood, a
+few miles distant, about the end of the last century, she was dismayed
+at the ignorance and immorality of the villagers, who were "living like
+the brutes that perish," and indulging in gross vices. Scarcely even
+in the heart of Africa could more complete heathenism be found. As yet
+Sunday Schools, Tract Societies and all the means of usefulness, now so
+common, had no existence.
+
+Her endeavours for the amelioration of the people were as experiments to
+be tried single-handed, under the most unpromising circumstances, and in
+the face of the most violent hostility and abuse.
+
+Yet she did not shrink from the arduous duty which lay before her. A
+house was taken, a pious teacher appointed, and the school was opened.
+Gradually enemies were conciliated, as the happy effects of Christian
+teaching became apparent. Many of the children learned to know and love
+the Saviour. The influence spread from the children to the parents,
+and by the blessing of God the experiment, which at first seemed so
+hopeless, was crowned with a success beyond her utmost expectations. It
+was in connection with her evangelistic work at Cheddar that she wrote
+her first tract, _Village Politics, by Will Chip_. This led to the
+preparation of her _Cheap Repository Tracts_, to be followed in due time
+by the establishment of the Religious Tract Society, whose operations
+now extend throughout the whole world. On the completion of the series,
+Mrs. More wrote in her journal: "Bless the Lord, O my soul, that I have
+been spared to accomplish this work. Do Thou, O Lord, bless and prosper
+it to the good of many; and if it do good, may I give Thee the glory,
+and take to myself the shame of its defects. I have devoted three years
+to the work. Two millions of these tracts have been disposed of during
+the first year! God works by weak instruments, to show that the glory is
+all His own."
+
+From Cheddar the traveller may either continue his journey by way of
+Wells, or may return at once to the main line, passing near the coast
+of the Bristol Channel, with a wide alluvial plain at his left, once
+covered by an arm of the sea, with islands, as Brent Tor and others,
+emerging from the waters, and reaching as far as Glastonbury or
+Avalon--"apple-island," famed in legend and song.
+
+[Illustration: 0132]
+
+A little further, and the marshy plain of the Parret stretches away in
+one direction to Sedgemoor, scene of the "last battle fought on English
+ground," * that in which the ill-fated Duke of Monmouth suffered
+irretrievable defeat, and in another, to Athelney, the place of King
+Alfred's retreat and noble rally against the Danes. In memory of the
+stories that charmed our childhood, we could do no otherwise than take
+the branch line at Durston, whence a few minutes' run places us in the
+marshy unpicturesque scene so memorable in English story. The whole
+neighbourhood was evidently once covered with woods and morasses; good
+drainage has made it fertile now, but it must be confessed that it must
+depend for all its attractiveness on its associations. On or near the
+traditional site of the "neatherd's cottage," an unpretending stone
+pillar with a lengthy inscription preserves the memory of Alfred's
+sojourn.
+
+     * Macaulay. The date was July 6, 1685
+
+Resuming the journey westward, we soon discern the towers of the Taunton
+churches, and may find a welcome night's rest in this bright and pretty
+town; or turning again off the main line, may pass north west, by a
+route full of interest, to the Ouantock Hills. On our way we pass Combe
+Florey, famous as the residence for a time of Sydney Smith, and as the
+scene of some of the most characteristic stories of his life. But we
+must not linger in the valley: at every point the wooded hill-slopes
+tempt us to climb upwards among shady groves of beech, over turf thick
+with primroses and bluebells, then out upon the furzy heights. It hardly
+matters which path we take, whether up Cothelstone, whence the view
+is perhaps most magnificent, or Will's Neck, highest point of all, or
+Hurley Beacon. From hilltop to hill-top we make our way, descending
+into mossy glens, where the hill stream trickles down in miniature
+waterfalls, or striking down some deep wooded combe, where the houses
+of a village nestle among the trees, and the spacious church tells of
+a time when the inhabitants far out-numbered the present scanty
+population. In the valley below, to the north-east, we descry the
+village of Nether Stowey, for some time the residence of Coleridge,
+and further to the north, at the foot of one of the loveliest of wooded
+combes, is Alfoxton, which was at the same time the home of Wordsworth.
+The two friends have told us how they used to meet and discuss high
+themes in many a charming stroll, their neighbours much wondering the
+while, and the government of the day suspecting their advanced
+opinions. The end was that they had to leave, not before they had made
+imperishable record of the beauties of the place. Thus Wordsworth writes
+to Coleridge, in the Prelude:
+
+                         "Beloved Friend!
+     When looking back, thou seest in clearer view
+     Than any liveliest sights of yesterday
+     That summer, under whose indulgent skies
+     Upon smooth Quantock's airy ridge we roved
+     Unchecked, or loitered 'mid her sylvan combes:
+     Thou in bewitching words, with happy hearts
+     Midst chaint the vision of that ancient man;
+     The bright-eyed Mariner, and rueful woes
+     Didst utter of the Lady Christabel."
+
+Coleridge, in a note to the _Ancient Mariner_, says, "It was on a
+delightful walk from Nether Stowey to Dulverton, with Wordsworth and his
+sister, in the autumn of 1797, that this poem was planned and in part
+composed."
+
+The great hilly range to the west, in full view across the valley from
+the Ouantocks, is an outlying rampart of Exmoor, and the brown peak in
+the distance is Dunkery Beacon, the highest point in Somersetshire. Our
+road leads between these heights and the sea, by Dunster, with its great
+ivied castle overhanging the quaint feudal-looking little town, and
+Minehead, a cheerful unpretending watering-place, to Porlock, where
+the ascent of what the country people call a "terràble long hill," by a
+zigzag moorland road, leads to a height from which, on looking back, we
+have a prospect of surpassing grandeur. Let us gaze our fill: if the day
+be fine, and the atmosphere clear, we shall see nothing nobler in the
+west of England. To the south the huge masses of Dunkery, brown with
+heather, rise from a foreground of woods and glens; below, to the east,
+lies a fair valley, surrounded with hills of every picturesque variety
+in form, prominent among which is the rugged side of Bossington Beacon.
+Towards the south-east, heights on heights arise, some richly wooded,
+others majestic in their bareness; while to the north and north-east
+stretches the Bristol Channel, with the Welsh mountains dimly seen
+beyond.
+
+[Illustration: 0134]
+
+Then we go southwards over a reach of wild moorland, and come upon the
+indescribable loveliness of Lynmouth and Lynton. Far beyond railways,
+accessible only by long walking or driving over hilly roads, or by small
+boats from steamers on their way up and down the Channel, this fair spot
+can never attract the crowd; but those who have wandered by its streams,
+or climbed its heights, are singularly unanimous in pronouncing it the
+most charming spot in England. Lynmouth is in the valley, on the shore;
+Lynton on the height. The name is derived from the _lyns_, or torrents,
+which descend separately, each through a wooded gorge or combe, until
+they meet beside the sea. Great mossy rocks everywhere break the course
+of the torrents, and the luxuriant foliage which lines the banks,
+the ferns and flowers, with the overhanging trees, combine to make a
+succession of perfect pictures.
+
+[Illustration: 0135]
+
+The traveller will, of course, go up Lyndale, the valley of the East
+Lyn, as far as Watersmeet, and will not omit to explore the quieter,
+more luxuriant, though less magnificent West Lyn. He will climb to
+the summit of Lyn Cliff, and will survey at ease the prospect from the
+summer-house; and will not omit the extraordinary Valley of the Rocks,
+reached by a grand walk along the face of the cliff, which overhangs the
+sea to the west of Lynton. At a break in this path he suddenly comes
+to a gigantic gateway, formed of two rocky pyramids, and enters upon
+a scene which, to his first view, appears strewn with the fragments of
+some earlier world. "Imagine," says Southey, "a narrow vale between two
+ridges of hills, somewhat steep: the southern hill turfed; the vale,
+which runs from east to west, covered with huge stones, and fragments of
+stone among the fern that fills it; the northern ridge completely bare,
+excoriated of all turf and all soil, the very bones and skeleton of the
+earth; rock reclining upon rock, stone piled upon stone, a huge terrific
+mass. A palace of the pre-historic kings, a city of the Anakim, must
+have appeared so shapeless, and yet so like the ruins of what had been
+shaped after the waters of the flood subsided.... I never felt the
+sublimity of solitude before."
+
+The drive from Lynton to Barnstaple, though not long, being, we believe,
+somewhat under twenty miles, brought to us a crowd of half-forgotten
+associations of early days when coach-travelling was the chief means of
+locomotion. The coach itself was of the old build, spick and span in its
+neatness; the coachman was of old-fashioned ways; the four sleek horses
+were no mere omnibus hacks, but as they warmed to their work up and down
+hill, showed a mettle akin to that of roadsters in days long ago.
+Or perhaps we had only imagined until now that the old breed had
+deteriorated! The villages on the way had no sign of "Station" or
+"Station Hotel" about them; children ran from the cottage doors to shout
+after the coach, or to bring primroses and violets to the passengers;
+rustics gathered for a chat where the coachman pulled up, as he did
+tolerably often, for time seemed but a small object in that old-world
+region. And all around was outspread a landscape of rich, ever-changing
+loveliness, ruddy in soil, rich in verdure, as at one time we descended
+into lanes half-embowered by the already luxuriant hedgerows, and at
+another emerged on open moorland swept by soft breezes from the sea, and
+engirdled by the hazy forms of distant hills. At length the estuary of
+the Taw came into view, the houses of Barnstaple appeared, the coach
+drove into the station yard, and we were in the world again.
+
+Another route might have been taken from Lynton to Ilfracombe, by way of
+Combe Martin, with its fine and rocky bay; but we were anxious to
+reach less crowded and familiar spots than the famous North Devon
+watering-place, though this also is in its way delightful. We must,
+however, see one or two further points on the coast before striking
+inland again; and accordingly, took up our night's quarters at Bideford,
+famed for the length of its bridge, and the steepness of its streets.
+Emerging early in the morning from the highest part of the town, we
+made our way to Westward Ho! that magnificent possibility, whose stately
+mansions and hotels, broad quays and pier, surrounded by vessels from
+all parts, with its broad level plain by the sea and noble background
+of wooded hills, had so often captivated us--in railway-station
+waiting-rooms. We found it all there, except the mansions, the quays,
+and the ships! The bay is glorious, the plain upon the shore stretches
+far and wide,--to the satisfaction of golfers, for whose favourite game
+no spot can be better adapted: there is a great pebble-ridge, a natural
+breakwater two miles long and fifty feet wide, composed of rounded
+pebbles of carboniferous "grit;" the background of wooded cliffs is
+magnificent, while a lonely pier, one commodious hotel, a bath-house on
+a splendid scale, some rows of villas, lodging-houses, and one or two
+educational establishments give promise of prosperity to come. A great
+sanatorium or hydropathic institution, to be called "the Kingsley,"
+after the gifted man who has set the stamp of his genius on this whole
+neighbourhood, has been projected; and certainly for purposes of health
+as well as enjoyment, no place could be better adapted than the woodland
+terraces overlooking this most beautiful bay.
+
+The mention of Charles Kingsley reminds us of Clovelly, his early home,
+and to the last his favourite spot. Early in the morning we started for
+this unique Devonshire village, with high expectations, and under
+the auspices of the British Government, as our chosen vehicle was the
+"mail-cart," in the shape of a very comfortable waggonette filled
+with pleasant chatty passengers, all the livelier, perhaps, from the
+good-humoured sense of merit which early-rising is apt to engender. The
+road was not particularly striking, save for glimpses of the channel
+seen through the light morning haze: the breath of spring was in the
+air, and when we alighted at the "Hobby" gate, we were fully prepared
+for the three miles' walk by which our breakfast was yet to be earned.
+The path, in reality a broad, well-kept drive, is carried along the face
+of the cliff, which shelves gradually, covered thickly with trees and
+brushwood, to the shore, while the bank towers above, soft with moss and
+beautiful with flowers. The cliff curves in and out irregularly; broken
+in one or two places by deep glens, over which the road is carried by
+rustic bridges. Long shadows lay, that morning, across the path; above
+and below, the tender budding foliage clothed the dark branches of oak
+and elm, hazel and beech, in every variety of shade; the air was musical
+with birds, and, stirred by the gentle morning breeze and the whisper of
+the boughs, blended with the distant murmur of the sea. It was a walk to
+be remembered. At length, at a turning of the road, Clovelly came
+into sight, about a mile distant--a seemingly confused heap of houses
+emerging on all sides from thick woodland, and slanting steeply down
+to a stone pier jutting out into a little bay. At the end of the Hobby
+walk, the summit of the village was gained, and we were soon descending
+its curious steep street, not without longing looks at the quaint little
+lodging-houses, all untenanted as yet.
+
+[Illustration: 8139]
+
+Clovelly is a place to linger in, and to dream! The practical need of
+the hour, however, was breakfast, during the preparation of which meal
+it was pleasant to sit in the hotel balcony, and look out upon the bay,
+with its lines of light and shadow, and the long outline of Lundy Island
+showing clear in the distance; for now the morning mists had lifted,
+and the brightness of spring was over sea and land. A walk of marvellous
+beauty followed, into the park of Clovelly Court, over springy turf,
+through woodlands budding into leaf, and over a stretch of rugged
+wilderness, preserved with some art in its primitive simplicity. Thence,
+by a winding pathway, or over a steep grassy slope, the highest
+point may be reached, a noble cliff, called from some old local story
+Gallantry Bower. A little summer-house, nestling in the cliff-side,
+commands a grand range of cliffs, with their curved, contorted strata,
+peculiar to the carboniferous formation, while many a jutting or broken
+crag gives a castellated aspect to this magnificent rampart of the
+coast. Inland, the scene is full of beauties of hill and glen, in almost
+measureless variety; but we could not linger to survey them all; for
+our way lay in another direction, before we could feast again on the
+beauties of cliff and sea.
+
+Hartland Point, a little farther on, is the true "Land's End" of
+Devonshire, the terminating promontory of Bideford Bay, a tongue of
+grassy land, not more than thirty or forty feet wide, at the summit of a
+tremendous precipice on either side, pointing, it is said, to a similar
+projection on the opposite Welsh coast, like twin pillars of Hercules, *
+guarding the estuary of the Severn.
+
+     * Ptolemy, the geographer (2nd cent.), is supposed to have
+     referred to Hartland Point, as the "Promontory of Hercules."
+
+[Illustration: 9140]
+
+It would now have been easy to visit Bude Haven, and so to travel south
+and south-west along the cliffs which fringe the Atlantic, but our
+present plan was to strike inland to Dartmoor. The little town of
+Oke-hampton was therefore our first destination, reached by a somewhat
+dull route,--whichever road may be taken,--but, when gained, most
+interesting. The town lies in a valley, watered by a swift romantic
+river which, at one point, sweeping round a wooded hill, crowned by the
+ruins of an old castle, forms as lovely a picture as anything of the
+kind in England. Kingsley abuses Okehampton, unjustly, we think: but,
+whatever may be thought of the town and its immediate neighbourhood,
+there can be no doubt as to the wonderful interest of the excursions
+that may be taken from it as a centre. From the castle hill, as from
+other points in the town, the chief object that arrests the eye is the
+vast brown sweep of rising ground, suggestive of mysterious desolation
+beyond, which we know to be the boundary of Dartmoor. Ascending, we find
+ourselves at first on pleasant, breezy, though treeless heights, but
+keep to beaten paths, and pursue our onward journey. At length the
+moorland track over which we have passed seems to rise behind us and
+shut out the world; and as we gaze around, we feel that all pictures
+which we had framed to ourselves of wild deserted solitudes are
+surpassed. "Like the fragments of an earlier world," is the comparison
+that naturally rises to the lips. We are not unfamiliar with moorland
+scenery--with Rombald's Moor, for instance, in Yorkshire, beautiful in
+its variety of colour, from the tender green and softening greys and
+browns of spring, to the purple heathery splendours of the autumn,
+while the song of lark and linnet overhead, or the plaintive cry of
+the lapwing, gives animation to the scene. But at Dartmoor is a new
+experience of desolation. The stupendous mass of granite which here
+crops up from hidden depths is covered on its broken surface with thick
+peat, in whose depths the blackened trunks of trees occasionally give
+evidence of a time when the range was clothed with wood, but which,
+for the most part, bears only coarse grass and moss, with heather and
+whortleberry in the most favoured localities. Broad spaces are covered
+by morass and bog, dangerous to the unaccustomed pedestrian. Scanty
+streams break from the heights, and hurry in all directions down to
+the valley, swollen to wild fury after a storm. The "tor," or
+shapeless masses of rock, which stand out from the peaty surface in
+all directions, are but, as it were, the jagged projections from the
+interior rock-skeleton. Some may be readily ascended; Yes Tor (probably
+East Tor, pronounced Devonshire fashion) being the highest, and on many
+accounts the best worth climbing.
+
+[Illustration: 0141]
+
+The prospect of the moor from this or any other commanding point can
+only be described as awful in its grim, monotonous, silent desolation,
+the only beauty being that of swelling distant outline, or frequently
+that of colour, when the atmosphere is clear between the frequent
+showers, and the rays of the sun light up the heather and the moss,
+diversifying the dark shadows of the tors with the various hues of
+green, with the ruddy gleam of withered fern, and rushes in many a
+morass. But let not the traveller be too hopeful of sunshine and clear
+air! For as the local rhyme says:
+
+     The south wind blows, and brings wet weather;
+     The north gives wet and cold together;
+     The west wind comes brimful of rain,
+     The east wind drives it back again.
+     Then, if the sun in red should set,
+     We know the morrow must be wet;
+     And if the eve is clad in grey,
+     The next is sure a rainy day."
+
+[Illustration: 9142]
+
+Still, the slopes by which Dartmoor descends to the lowlands around are
+beautiful. In fact, the mighty granite mass is girdled by an investiture
+of fair glens and smiling villages, which make the circuit of it a
+succession of some of the brightest pictures that England can anywhere
+present in the same compass. The drive from Oke-hampton to Chagford,
+or to Moreton Hampstead, for instance, is of wonderful charm. Near the
+former village, the river Teign descends over rocks and boulders in a
+richly-wooded glen, as beautiful in parts as Dovedale.
+
+[Illustration: 8142]
+
+The rivers, indeed, which come down on all sides from Dartmoor, are the
+glory of Devonshire. Beside the Teign, there is the Dart itself, one
+head-stream of which rises near the well-known prison at Prince Town,
+with the Taw, Tavy, Avon, Erme, Plym, and streamlets innumerable.
+
+Travellers in favourable weather will do well to cross Dartmoor by the
+coach-road, from Moreton Hampstead to Tavistock, past the big, gloomy
+prison, appropriately placed in the very wildest and most desolate
+part of the whole region. Or, as we did, making Okehampton their
+headquarters, they may pass on by train by way of Lidford. The railway
+is carried in places at a great height, on the open edge of the moor,
+which it curiously fringes: it seems essentially a holiday line; there
+is no hurry, and the traveller, as he passes along, may leisurely survey
+the frowning heights above, or the fair valley below, according to his
+choice.
+
+[Illustration: 0143]
+
+Lidford station being reached, we left the train, and found ourselves
+in an unfinished-looking spot, with little outwardly to attract. Having,
+however, received directions how to proceed, we crossed a farmyard,
+where some cattle with stupendous horns looked and lowed at us in a
+manner trying to the nerves, then, emerging near a river bank, made
+our way for less than a mile up the stream, on a grassy path beneath
+overhanging woods, when at a sudden turn up a glen that opened to the
+main stream, the gleam of waters caught the eye, at the first glance
+like some tall spirit of the dell, glimmering through the foliage that
+enshrouded it. A more beautiful cascade is hardly to be seen in England,
+when Dartmoor has had abundance of rain. At other times they say a
+friendly miller can turn on a supply of water, else thriftily economised
+for his needs. Happily, no such artificial arrangement was needful on
+the occasion of our visit; and we remained long admiring the lovely
+picture.
+
+[Illustration: 0144]
+
+Retracing our steps, we climbed to the village, crossing on our way a
+commonplace-looking bridge, of a single arch, at a clip in the road,
+with the sound of a great rush of waters beneath.
+
+[Illustration: 0145]
+
+We looked over the parapet, but could discern nothing, owing to the mass
+of thick shrubs and foliage which overarched the stream, and made
+our way uphill to the village. Here the traveller is directed to the
+churchyard, to see a curious epitaph on a watchmaker, in which some
+rather obvious allusions to human life are borrowed from his craft.
+Students of mortuary inscriptions are thankful often for small mercies
+in the way of wit, and are not always careful to note where the humour
+degenerates into irreverence or worse. We were more sadly interested in
+the contrast, which we have also observed in other churchyards, between
+the old style and the new; the simple piety of our fathers and the
+mimic popery of some of their descendants. Both are very observable at
+Lidford. One ancient tombstone bore some pathetic lines, beginning,--
+
+     "Praise to our God, whose faithful love
+     Hath called another to His rest."
+
+But the modern fashion was evidently to put up a flimsy cross, with the
+letters R.I.P., _Requiescat in pace!_ a prayer for the dead, who are
+beyond our reach, safe in the endless rest, or in a darkness whither
+our prayers cannot avail them. We left the scene with the feeling deeper
+than ever, that there are growing up errors among us, against which it
+becomes all true men earnestly to strive.
+
+[Illustration: 9146]
+
+Meanwhile we had learned something about the bridge that we had crossed
+just before, and the rush of waters below. Returning, therefore, and
+making application at the house close by, we were conducted down into a
+rocky gorge, through which rushes the Lid, one of the Dartmoor streams,
+a tributary of the Tamar. The cliffs, irregular and castellated, are
+seventy feet high; a narrow, dangerous path is carried along one side
+of the rock, and the wild foaming waters in the dark, narrow glen carry
+back the traveller's mind to Switzerland. Certainly there is nothing
+like "Lidford Bridge" elsewhere in England; the Strid in Bolton Woods
+may equal it in its rush of waters; but the rocks there lie in the open
+woodland, and the stream is but a few feet below their summit: here the
+beetling precipices almost meet above, as at the "Devil's Bridge" in
+Cardiganshire, and there are weird stories at both places of travellers
+on horseback who have leaped the bridge unconsciously by night, when
+broken down, only discovering their peril and their escape on the
+following day.
+
+From Lidford to Tavistock was an easy ride, and we found this pleasant
+town a place every way suitable for a Lord's Day rest. Outwardly, the
+great charm of the locality is the meeting-place between the wildness of
+Dartmoor and the rich cultivation of the valley; while some walks by the
+river are of a tranquil and serene beauty, only as it seems to us to
+be found in England, and to be enjoyed on the day of rest. Perhaps our
+feeling is in a great measure due to association; but if so, we have to
+thank association for one of the happiest evenings we have known. Next
+morning we explored the remains of the Abbey--now put to heterogeneous
+uses--a public library, a Unitarian Chapel, and a hotel, with sundry
+ruins in the vicarage garden; then a short railway journey carried us
+across the Cornish border to Launceston, where a short climb through
+pretty pleasure grounds to the keep of the old castle on the knoll that
+rises steeply from the town gave us a fine view, from the bulky range of
+Dartmoor on the one side, to the craggy outline of the Cornish hills on
+the other.
+
+[Illustration: 0147]
+
+Our object, however, was now to reach the coast; and, as a good test of
+our pedestrian powers, already pretty well exercised in the course
+of this charming: tour, we determined to walk over the hills in the
+direction of the sea, knowing that even if our powers failed, some
+passing "van" would take us up, and convey us in a primitive fashion to
+the nearest town. But we persevered, and, when we had accomplished nine
+or ten miles of an undulating, monotonous road, were rewarded by the
+first glimpse of the Atlantic, with the cloud shadows lying afar upon
+the untroubled sapphire; while, though no breeze stirred, there was
+a sense of freshness in the air that encouraged us to press on to our
+journey's end. At length we reached it, in a village to name which is
+to raise in the minds of those who have visited it memories most
+delightful; while to the multitude it is and will probably remain
+unknown. We will not call it Trelyon, after the fashion of a popular
+novelist, who has given us some of the most charming word-pictures of
+this scenery which our literature contains. Nor is it unkindness to
+the happy few who already know Boscastle, and one delightful homelike
+retreat from the world which it contains, to raise the veil a little
+farther. That it is several miles distant from a railway station, that
+there is no public conveyance to it but the "vans" already referred
+to, that gas is a luxury unknown, are points in its favour to those who
+think, like the Frenchman:
+
+     "How sweet, how passing sweet, is solitude!
+     But give me just one friend in my retreat,
+     To whom to whisper, 'Solitude is sweet.'"
+
+For society may be found at Boscastle--the society of the chosen few.
+The place itself is unique. Through tiny meadows a streamlet flows
+swiftly towards the sea, entering a fissure where the hills, swelling
+upward on either hand, rise to towering cliffs, inclosing a harbour, up
+which the tide surges restlessly to meet the stream, then as restlessly
+subsides. Behind the cliff on the western side, up a broad cleft from
+the brink of the rivulet to the hill-summit, runs the village, inhabited
+by a hardy, independent, self-contained race of Cornish people, proud
+of their scenery, as well they may be. The slate cliffs, in endless
+diversity of craggy pointed form, skirt the sea, which ever chafes
+against their bases; here and there a little inlet far below shows
+a surface of smooth white sand, inaccessible from the land, or to be
+reached only by the surefooted climber, familiar with every step. Broad
+grassy slopes crown the cliffs, and every turn discloses magnificent
+views of sea and shore. Our walk along the cliffs to Tintagel, starting
+from Willapark Point, the headland that rises so grandly to the west of
+the little bay, was of an interest which perhaps no other coast scene
+in England can fully match. First, Forrabury Church was passed, with
+its silent tower; the bells once destined for it lying, according
+to tradition, close by, at the bottom of the Atlantic. The ship that
+conveyed them was nearing the port. "Thank God for a fair voyage," said
+the pilot. "Nay," replied the captain, "thank the ship, the canvas, and
+the fair wind." It was in vain that the pilot remonstrated; but even
+while the ship was rounding the point a sudden storm gathered, the
+vessel was dashed upon the rocky coast, all perished save the pilot,
+and the bells sinking to the deep tolled solemnly, as if for the fate of
+those who would not acknowledge God. Still, it is said, when the storm
+rises high--
+
+     "'Those bells, that sullen surges hide,
+     'Peal their deep notes beneath the tide:
+     'Come to thy God in time!'--thus saith the ocean chime:
+     'Storm, billow, whirlwind past, come to thy God at last.'"
+
+[Illustration: 0150]
+
+Such is a specimen of the tales told at many a Cornish fireside. As we
+pass on we feel more and more that we are in the country of legend and
+song. The rolling uplands that stretch inland, with the deep vales and
+furzy hollows that intersect them, are renowned as the realm of King
+Arthur, the hero of British history and fable. Here, on the shore of
+the Atlantic, he may have gathered his good knights around him, to stand
+with them against the heathen invader; or it may be that here he was
+born, according to the legend; while "the great battle of the west," in
+which the hero disappeared, is said to have been fought at Camelford, in
+the neighbourhood. Local legends are full of this royal name; and if,
+as some will have it, King Arthur never existed, the universality of the
+tradition is all the more remarkable. The impress of his memory and
+life is everywhere. Of a little cottage maiden who guided us, we ask her
+name. "Jinnifer," was the reply--an unconscious perpetuation of the name
+of Guinevere, Arthur's Oueen.
+
+A lovely wooded glen breaks the cliff halfway to Tintagel, at the heal
+of which the explorer will find a waterfall, in a wild forest ravine,
+both on a somewhat miniature scale; but in the accessories of rock-hewn
+walks, with clinging shrubs and mountain spring-flowers, watered by the
+dashing spray, the dell was perfect. St. Nighton's Keive, or basin, as
+this romantic nook is called, is a sudden and welcome change from the
+wild sublimity of the rocks above, and the ceaseless thunder of the
+Atlantic. But we must reascend; and soon, from our turfy path upon the
+height we come into full view of a stupendous rock, standing a little
+way out to sea, the home of myriads of seabirds that circle the rock
+with weird cries, or, descending in flocks, skim the surface of the
+waves. They have evidently learned to fear the gun, and to distrust
+mankind.
+
+Tintagel, now approached, is an irregular village, following the lines
+and descents of the cliff. The church is on a wind-swept headland to the
+west, and in its stormiest corner we found the grave and monument of Mr.
+Douglas Cooke, the first editor of the _Saturday Review_. It was curious
+to be reminded of the conflicts of literature at this meeting-place of
+storms.
+
+Tintagel Castle itself we approached by a path that looked perilous,
+but was safe enough, descending from the cliff and rising steeply to a
+promontory or peninsula of slaty rock, on which the ruins stand.
+These are jagged, time-worn; little plan or order can be traced; such
+fragments of building as still exist are no doubt of much more recent
+origin than Arthur's time: the outward glory of the scene is all in the
+majestic sweep and serried outline of the stupendous cliffs, with the
+long roll of the sea breaking ceaselessly into billows at their base.
+The stillness is unbroken, save for this ocean music, with the hoarse
+cry of sea-birds, and the occasional bleating of the few sheep who
+pasture here. The sense of isolation becomes at last oppressive, and we
+gladly retrace our steps to the mainland.
+
+Boscastle remains for a time our home: it is a never-ceasing delight
+to climb to some nook of the cliffs, east and west, which inclose the
+little harbour, or to stroll down to the little pier--a trying walk at
+certain seasons, because of a chemical manure manufactory on the way--or
+to ramble over the grassy slopes, inhaling the pure breezes of the
+Atlantic. The Sunday spent in the neighbourhood was one of peculiar
+delight. Wandering inland, we found a church, in the depths of a wood;
+the congregation seemed to emerge, we knew not how, from deep bowery
+lanes and by-paths among the trees; the service was none the less
+impressive for the singing of birds without and the fragrance of
+spring blossoms stealing through the open windows. The sermon, too, was
+appropriate, a tender, practical exhortation to "delight ourselves in
+God." In the evening of the same day, in the hush of twilight, taking
+our accustomed path over the cliffs, we came upon a group of people, old
+and young, who had evidently come thither after an early evening service
+at one of the chapels: they were holding a prayer-meeting in the rocky
+nook--singing a hymn as we approached, the burden of which was "Over
+there," while wistful eyes gazed across the now purple sea, to the
+splendours which lingered in the west after sunset, as though reminded
+by those tints of heavenly glory of the land that is very far off. It
+was good for the stranger to pause by the way, to join in that touching
+strain, and add his Amen to that Sabbath evening prayer.
+
+[Illustration: 9153]
+
+Boscastle was so attractive that the rest of a long journey had to be
+performed in haste. Bodmin, Truro, Redruth, were all rapidly passed, and
+after climbing Carnbrea, near the latter town, and hearing some of the
+marvellous stories connected with that giant hill, we took rail for
+Penzance, anxious at least to visit St. Michael's Mount, the Logan Rock
+and the Land's End. But what impressed us most, when we reached that
+last and prettiest of Cornish towns, was the climate. We had believed
+it spring; but here it was already summer! The last struggle with wintry
+frosts was over, and the woods and fields were decked with all their
+wealth of verdure; the air had lost its sharpness, and the rich
+colouring of every part of the scene, from the golden furze upon the
+hills to the ruddy lichen on the rocks, seemed to reflect the genial
+glow. Mount's Bay, still and blue, was wonderful in its contrast with
+the Atlantic surges that we had just left on the opposite shore. We
+thought of the words with which Emerson begins one of his lectures: "In
+this refulgent summer it has been a luxury to live."
+
+St. Michael's Mount, that extraordinary combination, geologically
+speaking, of granite and clay-slate, remarkable, too, in its
+correspondence with the much larger Mont St. Michel on the shore of
+Normandy, is as interesting a place to visit as it is beautiful to look
+upon. The views from its summit over sea and land are of surpassing
+loveliness, and to enjoy them to the full it is not necessary to make
+the hazardous attempt to sit in "St. Michael's Chair," the half, it is
+said, of an old stone lantern, but overhanging the precipice in a
+very perilous way. The villagers round the bay will tell you that the
+archangel himself appears in this "chair" when a storm is raging, and
+firmly believe that he is the guardian spirit of these seas.
+
+[Illustration: 0153]
+
+The Logan Rock, to which we next directed our steps, was disappointing
+in more ways than one: the finest part of the cliff-scenery being the
+great granite headland, which visitors are apt to pass unnoticed, in
+searching for the natural curiosity, and in recalling the story of its
+fall and reinstatement. There are, in fact, many "logan" or logging
+rocks in granite districts, locally called Tolmêns; one formerly in the
+parish of Constantine, between Penrhyn and Helston, being larger than
+this on the coast, though without its magnificent accessories. Their
+peculiar position is caused by the influence of air and moisture,
+wearing a fissure in the rock, until a detached upper portion rests only
+on a small central base. The wonder is in the bigness of the rock thus
+balanced, and in the evenness of the process of disintegration all
+around: the vast majority of boulders worn away by such agencies being
+of course over balanced, so as to fall on one side.
+
+[Illustration: 0154]
+
+The mechanical restoration of this Logan Rock to its position, and the
+appliances necessary to keep it in balance, give an artifical air to the
+whole, and we were glad to turn away to the stupendous cliff scenery,
+pursuing a path along the rocks to the Land's End, where every point has
+its old Cornish name, and where the combinations of form and outline,
+if less imposing than on the northern shore, are still very fine. The
+granite of which this southern line of coast is composed is more rugged
+and massive, if less variously picturesque, and the admirer of coast
+scenery who has explored the two districts--from Boscastle to Tintagel,
+and from the Logan Rock to the Land's End--has little' more to see or to
+learn.
+
+The great western promontory has been so often described that we
+need but refer to our artist's delineation. The low descending
+promontory, from the great cliff rampart behind, the narrowness of the
+"neck of land" between "two unbounded seas,"--to adopt the phrase of
+Charles Wesley's well-known hymn, here written,--the rocky islands near,
+on which the lighthouse stands, and the ever-chafing restless surge,
+make up a picture which fills the imagination in many after days.
+
+[Illustration: 8155]
+
+From this point "the vast expanse of ocean is at all times a grand
+spectacle; it is terrible when a fierce westerly gale levels before it
+the whole flow of the sea, driving forward one blinding sheet of foam,
+even to the summit of the Land's End precipice; but it is yet more
+solemn in its quieter mood, when, with little wind stirring, the vast
+billows, propagated from some centre of storms far in the Atlantic, come
+slowly to break on the rocks in measured cadences of thunder, the very
+types of enormous power in repose."
+
+But it was now time to turn our thoughts and our course homeward.
+
+Very reluctantly, we left the south of Cornwall unvisited--the Lizard
+Point, Kynance Cove, and the magnificent harbour of Falmouth, with its
+flanking castles of Pen-dennis and St. Mawes.
+
+[Illustration: 9155]
+
+Then there were the great southern towns of Devonshire, with their
+beauties manifold,--Plymouth and Torquay, with the lovely little
+watering-places of Teignmouth and Dawlish, and stately Exeter itself. On
+previous occasions we had visited them all, had spent long dreamy hours
+in Anstey's Cove, then comparatively unvisited by excursionists, had
+tenanted humble lodgings at Babbicombe Bay, before the villas were
+built, and had sailed down the lovely winding Dart to Dartmouth, with
+its harbour among the hills. The natural beauties are still there,
+though art has done much of its best or its worst with them since those
+days. But we must now pass them all by, only in imagination breathing
+their soft southern airs, or casting hasty glances at one or other of
+them from the carriage windows of the romantic South Devon Railway. For
+we have tarried amid the attractions of the far west until the latest
+possible moment. At six in the morning we leave Penzance; at six in the
+evening we are in London.
+
+[Illustration: 0156]
+
+[Illustration: 0158]
+
+
+
+
+THE ENGLISH LAKES
+
+[Illustration: 0159]
+
+|ONE great attraction of the Lake district of Cumberland and
+Westmoreland lies in its singular compactness. Equal beauties, and
+greater sublimity, may be found elsewhere, but nowhere surely has such
+immense variety of natural charms been gathered within the same space.
+A good pedestrian might pass from the north of the district to the
+south--from Keswick to Windermere--in a single day; or in even less time
+might make his way from east to west--from Patterdale to the foot of
+Wastwater. True, in so hurried a journey he would lose much; for weeks
+may delightfully be spent among the mountains, in exploring their hidden
+nooks and wonders. But all that is most beautiful is within the compass
+of a short tour; and an observation which Mr. Ruskin has somewhere made
+about Switzerland is as true of this enchanting country. He says that
+the loveliest and sublimest scenes are to be witnessed from beaten roads
+and spots easy of access; that things as wonderful are open to the
+view of the traveller who cannot leave his carriage as to the Alpine
+mountaineer. There is no doubt an exhilaration of mountain air only
+to be enjoyed on the heights; and for the view of billowy uplands all
+around the spectator, like a Titanic ocean stricken into stillness, the
+visitor to the Lakes ought to ascend Helvellyn; but the views from
+the valleys, or from the roads that encircle the lower slopes of the
+mountains, are incomparable. Familiar as is the road from Ambleside to
+Grasmere, or, in another style of beauty, the drive to Red-bank and High
+Close, or, in yet another, the ascent to the Castle Hill at Keswick,
+they never lose their charm even to those who prefer to leave these easy
+ways for the toilsome walk over the Stake or Sty Head Pass, or up the
+shaley steeps of Scafell or the tremendous grassy slopes of Skiddaw. The
+glories of this district are, in a word, for all who have eyes to see
+and hearts to feel.
+
+[Illustration: 0160]
+
+First impressions have great effect, especially in the approach to
+beautiful scenery; and there are at least three ways to the Lake
+district from the south which compete one with another in their
+interest. The first is by rail, northwards from Lancaster to Penrith,
+passing by the outside or eastern edge of the fells which bound the
+mountain region. This journey throughout is of wonderful beauty,
+especially where the broad grassy fells rise steeply on one side of the
+line, and on the other the hill abruptly descends to the river Lune,
+here little more than a mountain streamlet, eddying and sparkling
+through wooded dells. From Penrith, a branch line to Keswick passes in
+the latter part of its course through an exquisite glen, watered by the
+streams that come down from the great Blencathara ridge, with many
+a glimpse of picturesque crags clothed with fern, shrubs and flowers
+jutting from the mountain's base. All this well prepares the traveller
+for the glorious view that greets him when he emerges from the station
+at Keswick, and looks forth upon the amphitheatre of mountains.
+
+Another method of approach is by leaving the Lancaster and Carlisle
+Railway at the junction for Kendal, so proceeding to the Windermere
+terminus, situated on a height commanding a magnificent view of
+the upper part of the lake. The suddenness with which this scene is
+disclosed, as well as the completeness of its beauty, makes it to many
+the favourite mode of access. It is also perhaps the most convenient,
+conveyances to every part of the district being ready as the trains come
+in. The traveller, however, should it be his first visit, will do well
+to go up to Orrest' Head, behind the hotel, from which the whole of
+Windermere, with its islands and the mountains beyond, form a truly
+enchanting prospect, suggesting to the delighted spectator the wonders
+beyond.
+
+[Illustration: 0161]
+
+But there is another way of entering this fairy region, by which its
+beauties are not suddenly disclosed, but grow one by one upon the sight.
+Still, perhaps, the unique and impressive character of the approach
+gives this method of access the advantage over every other. So we say to
+every reader who has not as yet visited the Lakes, Go by the over-land
+railway along the edge of Morecambe Bay: and to those who have visited
+it by other routes, Go again by this! The line crosses two estuaries,
+of the Kent and of the Leven. When the tide is up, the effect of
+passing through a wide expanse of sea rising to within a few feet of the
+embankment on both sides is wonderfully striking; and at low water the
+great reaches of sand are scarcely less impressive. Morecambe Bay, with
+its curving shore and many inlets, is at all times beautiful, and the
+mountain ranges are seen dimly in outline across its waters. At several
+points the railway embankment seems to have effected a change in the
+sea-level; fields now fertile being fringed on the side farthest from
+the bay by low cliffs, the bases of which were evidently at no remote
+period washed by the waters. A vast additional area might, one would
+think, be still reclaimed by engineering skill without any serious cost.
+But we pass on to Ulverston, where we change carriages, rather than
+proceed at present to Furness* and Coniston; the direct entrance to the
+district being by a short recently-constructed railway along the shore
+of the Leven up to the foot of Windermere. We pass through a pretty
+wooded valley beside the bright, swiftly-descending stream, and at the
+terminus, on the brink of the lake, find a little steamer ready to pass
+upward. At first the charms of Windermere resemble those of some fair
+broad river, flowing between ranges of low wood-crowned hills; but the
+lake soon opens, and after we have passed Belle Isle, opposite Bowness,
+any disappointment we may have felt at first yields to unbounded
+admiration. The mountains at the head of the lake disclose their grand
+outlines, appearing to change their relative positions at every turn of
+the steamer; and some persons acquainted with mountain scenery in many
+lands pronounce the view of these heights a little before sunset in
+summer time to be unsurpassed in beauty. Wansfell Pike on the right,
+Fairfield in front, and the Langdale Pikes in the distance on the left,
+with the broken lines and broad uplands of Loughrigg Fells between, all
+invested with the shadowy tints of evening, form a picture which in its
+tender aerial loveliness seems ready to vanish while we gaze.
+
+     * There is another way of entering the district, by the
+     Furness Railway, and along the west coast, as far as the
+     station at Seascales or Drigg: thence to Wastwater, and
+     Wastdale Head. The traveller will thus plunge at once into
+     the wildest and most desolate part of the Lake country,
+     emerging into fairer scenes.
+
+[Illustration: 0162]
+
+If the ways of entering this fair district are manifold, so are the
+method and order in which its attractions may be viewed. These must be
+studied in the guide books, and every traveller will shape his route for
+himself. In this, much will depend on the time at command. We have spent
+three days among the Lakes, and again a week, again a month; and while
+the shorter period enabled us to see much, the longer did but prove to
+us that the beauties were inexhaustible. Some visitors take Ambleside
+as their headquarters, some Grasmere, some Keswick; others, happier in
+their decision, have no headquarters at all, but range from place to
+place. As a centre, we should prefer Grasmere; but every one will have
+his own preference. It may almost be said that the Lake country has
+its controversies and sects, with as many divisions of opinion on the
+question which part is the fairest, as on more important matters.
+Some give the palm to Ullswater among the lakes, an equal number to
+Denventwater, a minority to Windermere, while there are those who prefer
+the silent and gloomy Wastwater. Then who shall say whether the view
+from Helvellyn, Skiddaw, or Scafell is the most marvellous in its
+beauty? Our advice is to join none of the sects, to take no part in
+the controversy, to climb all three of the mountains, and to visit, if
+possible, all the lakes! After this our advice may be thought to savour
+of partisanship, when we say that the visitor who wishes to know the
+full and perfect beauty of this region, whether he enter from the north,
+or west, or south, must on no account neglect to visit Keswick and
+Skiddaw.
+
+[Illustration: 0163]
+
+The lovely lake of Derwentwater is so near to the little town, there are
+so many points, as Friar's Crag, Castle Crag, and Latrigg, accessible by
+the most moderate walking, and the days' excursions from the place are
+so various and delightful, that none will feel our counsel to be out of
+place. Not to mention that, in the by no means rare or improbable event
+of a rainy day, there are the pencil factories and the models of
+the Lake district. The latter should be seen alike by those who have
+traversed the region, and by those who have not; the former will be
+interested in recognising the places that they have visited, and the
+latter, in making out their intended tours.
+
+The great excursion from Keswick is one which is made by multitudes on
+foot or in carriages; and for variety of charm within a comparatively
+short compass its equal is hardly to be found. First the road leads
+between the lake and an almost perpendicular crag, wooded to the summit.
+Barrow Falls, in the pleasure-grounds of a mansion, may be visited on
+the way; and few will omit to see Lodore, at the other end of the lake.
+The charm here is that of a steep and rocky glen: rarely indeed does
+the "water come down," at least in the summer-time, after the fashion
+described in Southey's famous lines.
+
+[Illustration: 9164]
+
+Then the grandeurs of Borrowdale unfold themselves, and Rossthwaite, in
+the heart of this valley, is the very ideal of sequestered loveliness.
+The road, turning to the right at Seatoller, climbs a long steep hill
+beside a dashing torrent. A little way beyond the summit is Honister
+Crag, most magnificent of inland cliffs; and so, amid wild rock-scenery
+on either hand, we descend to Buttermere. The drive now discloses
+a grand amphitheatre of mountains, whose summits form a rugged
+ever-changing line against the sky. Soon the little inn is reached;
+but we would advise no tourist so to occupy himself with the welcome
+refreshment, though flavoured with that "best sauce," a sharp-set
+appetite, or even with the ever-amusing "Visitors' Book," as to neglect
+rowing across Crummock Water, when a walk of about a mile will take him
+to Scale Force, in its deep rocky glen, the loftiest and noblest, as
+well as the most secluded of the lake waterfalls. The drive back from
+Buttermere to Keswick, by the Newland Valley, or the Vale of Lorton,
+with its old yew tree, is full of interest, from the bold mountain
+forms ever in view, but has not the wonderfully varied beauty of the
+Borrowdale and Seatoller route.
+
+Everybody, as we have said, takes this drive: but there is an excursion
+known to comparatively few, not a very long one, but "beautiful
+exceedingly."
+
+Should a morning at Keswick be unemployed, or if the question should
+arise in the interval of wider explorations: "What shall I do to-day?"
+our advice is to go up to Watendlath. This is a narrow upland valley,
+extending from the head of the stream that supplies Barrow Fall, to that
+which comes down at Lodore, then up by the latter to the tarn from which
+it flows. It may be reached by one of two or three routes from below,
+and after a short ascent the traveller finds himself, as it were, in
+the very heart of the hills; a still and lovely world, above the beaten
+ways, with nature's fragrance and music all around. We have suggested "a
+morning" for the excursion, but it is still better to proceed leisurely;
+resting on some turfy bank beside the path, in happy talk with congenial
+friends; or, if alone, in quiet communion with our own souls and with
+Him who has made the world so beautiful. In the earlier parts of the
+walk the occasional views over Derwentwater, and down to Bassenthwaite,
+with Skiddaw towering grandly in one direction, and the Borrowdale
+Mountains in another, are magnificent; but in the heart of the glen,
+leading up beside the Lodore torrent, these are gradually left behind.
+When the hamlet, and the tarn with its bright rippling waters, at length
+are reached, and the torrent has been crossed by a little rustic bridge,
+Ross-thwaite is descried below, and may be reached by a steep descent;
+or the stout pedestrian may strike boldly over Armboth Fall for
+Thirlmere at the foot of Helvellyn, or if he please may climb still
+higher by the side of the Lodore stream until he reaches Blea Tarn, high
+up among the fells.
+
+Which of the three great mountains of the Lake district to choose in
+preference for an ascent, it would be hard to say. On the whole, our
+own associations would lead us to select Skiddaw; but if Helvellyn and
+Scafell can also be ascended, so much the better. The distant views
+from Skiddaw of the Solway Firth and the Scottish hills are very fine
+in clear weather; but undoubtedly the wild magnificence of the mountain
+groups as seen from Helvellyn is incomparable. The majesty of Scafell is
+the majesty of desolation. Carlyle says:--
+
+"From this centre of the mountain region, beautiful and solemn is the
+aspect to the traveller. He beholds a world of mountains, a hundred
+savage peaks--like giant spirits of the wilderness; there in their
+silence, in their solitude, even as on the night when Noah's deluge
+first dried." *
+
+     * _Sartor Resartus._
+
+But of all mountain scenes, that which most abides in our memory is
+that which was suddenly outspread before us one summer evening, a little
+before sunset, in descending Skiddaw. The afternoon had brought swirling
+blinding mists about our upward path; we had reached the summit with
+difficulty, only to find ourselves enveloped on all sides in a white
+chilly sea of cloud. Passing breezes and sweeping sheets of vapour had
+created the hope that the mists would soon pass away; but it seemed in
+vain to wait, and we began descending. Then as we reached a little knoll
+on the mountain's side, the mist parted before us, and in an instant
+had rolled far back on either side. Through its vast shadowy portal,
+it was as if Paradise were unveiled! The atmosphere below was perfectly
+transparent and still; the rays of the sun were reflected in crimson
+glory from the lake, so as in an instant to bring to the mind of every
+member of our party the Apocalyptic vision of the "sea of glass mingled
+with fire." The splendour lighted up every mountain side where it fell,
+their crags were gold and purple, the verdure of the upland slopes and
+thick woods, with the living green of the woods and meadows, gleamed
+with a more than tropical brilliancy; and the long dark shadows which
+everywhere lay athwart the scene only set in brighter contrast the
+surrounding glory. The mists fleeted, vanishing as they ascended the
+mountain side; the magnificence of colouring soon subsided into quiet
+loveliness, then into a sober grey; the vision had faded, leaving deep
+suggestions of those possibilities of beauty everywhere latent in this
+fair creation, perhaps to be fully disclosed when the new heavens and
+earth shall appear.
+
+Space fails us now to speak of the rival beauties of Ullswater, where
+the surrounding mountains are closer and grander than in any other part
+of the district. Every competent pedestrian we would advise to walk
+to this lake, from the border of Thirlmere, and over the summit of
+Helvellyn. Should this be too great a tax on the tourist's powers, he
+will find the way by Griesdale, a pass between Fairfield and Helvellyn,
+a very practicable walk amid grand scenery. And when Ullswater is
+reached, what more charming nook can there be than Patterdale, deep set
+among the hills? After a little time spent there, we pant perhaps for
+more open scenery and a more stimulating atmosphere; and there is the
+climb over Kirkstone Pass to meet our desire, and to carry us back to
+beautiful Windermere, our first love and our last, in all this haunted
+realm!
+
+We have pursued for the most part a beaten track, verily believing, as
+we said at the outset, that here the choicest beauties are to be found.
+But there is many a hidden little-visited nook where the superadded
+charm of solitude seems to enhance all the rest; and we shall be
+indignantly told by many that we have left the loveliest spots without
+a mention. What can be more perfectly beautiful than the view's from the
+hill-sides above the head of Coniston Water? What valley can vie, in its
+combination of lofty cliff, green slopes, richly varied woodland, and
+gleam of rushing waters, with the approach from Coniston to Little
+Langdale? The few who in another part of the district follow the Liza
+down to Ennerdale will have it that there is a wild beauty in this glen
+which gives it a charm beyond all others. And so is it on the other
+side, with the scarcely larger band of visitors to secluded Mardale and
+wild and lonely Haweswater. Then, as to mountain passes, the climber
+sneers at Griesdale, calls Kirkstone a "Turn-pike-road," thinks there is
+nothing worth an effort but the Stake, between Langdale and Borrowdale,
+Sty Head, between Langdale and Wastdale, or Black Sail and Scarf Gap,
+from Wastdale to Buttermere. And even these passes are not Alpine. Go
+in a fault-finding mood, and you will discover that the torrents are
+without volume, that the mountains lack elevation, that the lakes are
+insignificant in size. But the man whose eye and heart are open to the
+impression of beauty will be indifferent to these comparisons, will
+rather rejoice in the limitations which permit every element of grandeur
+and loveliness to be gathered into so small a space; and for ourselves
+we may say that we have never appreciated the charm of the English Lakes
+so truly as when we have visited them after a tour amid the mightier
+wonders of Switzerland.
+
+[Illustration: 0167]
+
+At Ambleside there is many a pleasant resting-place in which to recall
+the pleasures and sum up the impressions of the journey, and to dwell,
+as many love to do, upon the associations of one and another great name
+by turns with almost every part of the district. First and foremost is
+Wordsworth, the poet of nature;--the great "Lake Poet," only because
+nature here is at her loveliest,--who from his home at Grasmere, and
+afterwards at Rydal Mount, gave utterance, more richly, truly, deeply,
+than any writer of his generation, of man's delight in the Creator
+s work. The association of his name with his beloved lake country
+is imperishable. Many years ago De Quincey wrote, with reference
+to Wordsworth's earlier poems, "The very names of the ancient
+hills--Fairfield, Seat Sandal, Helvellyn, Blen-cathara, Glaramara; the
+names of the sequestered glens--such as Borrowdale, Martindale, Mardale,
+Wastdale, and Ennerdale; but, above all, the shy pastoral recesses,
+not garishly in the world's eye, like Windermere or Der-wentwater,
+but lurking half unknown to the traveller of that day--Grasmere, for
+instance, the lovely abode of the poet himself, solitary, and yet
+sowed, as it were, with a thin diffusion of humble dwellings--here a
+scattering, and there a clustering, as in the starry heavens--sufficient
+to afford, at every turn and angle, human remembrances and memorials of
+time-honoured affections, or of passions (as the 'Churchyard amongst
+the Mountains' will amply demonstrate), not wanting even in scenic and
+tragical interest--these were so many local spells upon me, equally
+poetic and elevating with the Miltonic names of Valdarno and
+Vallombrosa." *
+
+     * Works, vol. ii. p. 124.
+
+[Illustration: 9168]
+
+The spell remains, though some of the aspects of the scenery have
+changed. Grasmere, for instance, is no longer a "shy pastoral recess,"
+but the stream of life that daily pours through the valley cannot impair
+its beauty. This of all the lakes possesses, when the wind is still,
+the supreme charm of perfect stillness and transparency. We have seen
+it when it was absolutely impossible to distinguish its richly-wooded
+banks, or the island near its centre, from their reflection in the
+unrippled water. The unclouded blue of the heavens was mirrored, as in
+fathomless depths. It was a "sea of glass like unto crystal." It may be
+hoped that this loveliness will be uninvaded by anything which would mar
+its perfection. We know that Wordsworth pathetically protested against
+the invasion of the railway; but on the height which the Windermere
+station occupies, at the very portal of this beautiful land, it in no
+degree interferes with the enjoyment of the scenery, while facilitating
+the access of multitudes who could not otherwise share the delight. The
+railway station at the foot of the lake, that on the border of Coniston,
+and even that at Keswick, are, so to speak, outside the magic circle;
+but we can fully sympathise with Mr. Ruskin and others who have employed
+such strenuous efforts to resist every threatened or possible inroad.
+The very compactness of the region, and the ease with which, when once
+reached, it may be traversed throughout, might lead the most impatient
+traveller to be satisfied with the existing means of swift access. When
+the border is gained, let him proceed leisurely, and enjoy. If young,
+the stagecoach travelling, which is here so common, may yield him an
+unfamiliar, though old-fashioned kind of delight. To judge from our
+own youthful recollections, as well as from the literature of a past
+generation, there was, in favourable circumstances of scenery and
+weather, an exhilaration in such journeys which never is or can be known
+in the rapid rush through railway cuttings, and over high embankments,
+behind the "Erebus" or "Phlegethon," at the rate of fifty miles an hour!
+And many an elderly or middle-aged man almost unconsciously exults in
+the renewal of his youth in that grand coach-drive from Windermere over
+Dunmail Raise to Keswick.
+
+[Illustration: 0169]
+
+But we return for a moment to the personal associations of this region.
+Southey has often been classed with Wordsworth as belonging to a school
+of "Lake Poets." Nothing could be more erroneous, as De Quincey pointed
+out long ago. It is true that these poets both lived by the lakes;
+but there is no sense in which they can be described as of the same
+"school." In fact, they are curiously unlike in many of their chief
+characteristics; although they esteemed each other truly; and very
+noble are the lines which Wordsworth has dedicated to the memory of his
+friend:
+
+     "Wide were his aims; yet in no human breast
+     Could private feelings find a holier nest.
+     His joys, his griefs, have vanished like a cloud
+     From Skiddaw's top; but he to heaven was vowed,
+     Through a life long and pure, and Christian faith
+     Calmed in his soul the fear of change and death." *
+
+     * From the Epitaph on Southey, by Wordsworth, in Crosthwaite
+     Church, Keswick.
+
+[Illustration: 0170]
+
+Other names arise to mind. Close under Orrest Head was Elleray, once
+the beautiful home of Professor Wilson, the "Christopher North" whose
+"recreations" were to describe, in language of a rich and gorgeous
+luxuriance which the present generation is scarcely able to enjoy, but
+which the readers of a past age dwelt upon with rapture, the glories of
+mountain, lake, and sky. Fox How and the Knoll, between Windermere
+and Rydal Water, bring to mind two very different names, each of great
+influence in their generation. At the former, Dr. Arnold, of Rugby,
+passed his happy vacations; in the latter, Miss Harriet Martineau
+endeavoured--with what success we attempt not here to judge--to work out
+her theory of life. The name of Coleridge also connects itself with this
+region; not of the philosophic teacher and wonderful talker, though we
+have known the mistake to be made by people well informed. Samuel Taylor
+Coleridge, as Carlyle says, "sat on Highgate Hill having left the lakes
+for the great city, never to return." It was his son Hartley whose
+brilliant gifts, in their fitful and broken splendour, have caused the
+name of Coleridge to be remembered, and repeated with pitying affection,
+all through the Grasmere Vale.
+
+[Illustration: 0171]
+
+We turn reluctantly from this world of beauty, happy in the remembrance
+of what we have seen and felt, happier perhaps that so much remains
+unvisited in a region where every by-way and secluded dell has its own
+peculiar loveliness, and that we may hope to return again and yet again
+to explore its wonders. For the mountain climber, are there not Great
+Gable, Bowfell, Fairfield, Pillar Mountain in Ennerdale, steepest of
+all, Blen-cathara, otherwise Saddleback, with its unequalled view of
+Derwentwater, and Coniston Old Man, with its grand prospects over land
+and sea? These six are scarcely inferior in height to the imperial
+three,* whose names and forms are most familiar. Then the Langdales
+should be climbed; one or both, as a position below the loftiest in a
+mountain land affords the best point of view from which to apprehend the
+grandeur of the surrounding hills. And after the greater lakes have been
+duly visited, what wealth of hidden beauty is there in those retired
+valleys, where rivulets suddenly expand into fair still sheets of
+water, reflecting the mountains at whose base they lie; and what lonely
+grandeur in the tarns high among the hills, rarely visited by human
+foot, and, like Scales Tarn on Blencathara, so surrounded by wild crags
+as hardly ever to admit the sunlight! Excursion after excursion may be
+made, not only by the angler, but by those who have no taste for such
+sport, to these lofty miniature lakes.
+
+[Illustration: 9171]
+
+Or, if the tourist delights in waterfalls, let him seek out Dungeon
+Ghyll in Langdale, or go up behind the inn at Ambleside to Stock Ghyll,
+or stop on his way through the valley to admire the two picturesque
+Falls at Rydal, or ramble through Gowbarrow Park, near Ullswater, as far
+as Airey or Ara Force, which "by Lyulph's Tower speaks from the woody
+glen," or let him make a special excursion to Eskdale to see Stanley
+Ghyll, described by some tourists as the most beautiful of all. The
+beauty of these cascades, and of others less famed, arises not from the
+volume of water, but from the picturesqueness of the glens in which they
+lie; these being, in almost every case, deep and narrow fissures in the
+rock, covered with ferns, mosses and shrubs in the utmost luxuriance.
+The varied tints of the rocks and of the foliage by which they are
+clothed give richness of colouring to the picture; and when the sunlight
+falls upon the dashing spray, and rainbow tints hang over the fall, the
+surpassing loveliness of the scene is even enhanced by the smallness of
+its scale.
+
+It would hardly be possible to omit, in any notice of the Lake district,
+however incomplete, a reference to the great uncertainty of the weather.
+In the deeper valleys, especially, as Wastdale and Buttermere, the
+traveller is often sorely disappointed by incessant rain. Yet even
+this has its compensation in the increased translucency of the air,
+the beauty of the mountain streams and cascades, with the incomparable
+splendours of the parting clouds, when the sunlight has smitten them
+apart, and their white trains vanishing up the mountain-side are as the
+robes of angels. When the summer airs elsewhere are stifling, and the
+ground is parched, the effect of the frequent mists and showers is fully
+seen. For then the whole lake country is as green as an emerald; and,
+except in the deepest valleys, the wearied brain and limbs are refreshed
+by stimulating mountain airs. Such seasons perhaps are the best for a
+visit to the Lakes; but they are beautiful in winter too, when the snows
+linger on the heights, and in the early spring, when the greensward is
+carpeted with wild flowers, and in the autumn, when the purple, gold,
+and crimson clothe the woods in a royal array, while the withered Reaves
+elsewhere strew all the ground. "Those only know our country," say the
+dwellers among the lakes, "who live here all the year round." Be it
+so. It is good to carry in memory, into the busy, more prosaic walks of
+life, the glimpse, if it be no more, of all this beauty; and, after
+all, it is the "still sad music of humanity" that thrills the soul more
+deeply than the music of the whispering woods, or of the torrent down
+the mountain side. It was the Poet of the Lakes and Mountains who closed
+one of the noblest of his odes by the words:
+
+     "Thanks to the human heart by which we live,
+     Thanks to its tenderness, its joys, its fears;
+     To me, the meanest flower that blows can give
+     Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears."
+
+[Illustration: 0174]
+
+
+
+
+THE EASTERN COUNTIES
+
+[Illustration: 0175]
+
+|John Foster quaintly says that "the characteristic of genius is, that
+it can light its own fire:" he might have added that it can provide its
+own fuel. Mere talent is mainly dependent upon adventitious aids and
+favourable circumstances, whilst genius can work with the clumsiest
+tools and the most intractable materials. The magnificent scenery of
+Switzerland and the Scotch Highlands has produced no artist or poet of
+the first rank. The featureless landscape of Holland or of East
+Anglia sufficed for Cuyp or Hobbema, or Ruysdael, for Gainsborough
+or Constable, or Old: Crome. The quiet loveliness of Warwickshire was
+enough for Shakspere's genius. Milton had seen the glories of the Alps
+and Apennines, but Buckinghamshire furnished the subject-matter of
+_L'Allegro_ and _Il Penseroso_. The dreary flats of Bedfordshire and
+Huntingdonshire cease to be dull and prosaic in Cowper s verse.
+
+The themes of Tennyson's earlier poems were drawn from the fens and
+meres and melancholy swamps of Lincolnshire. The truth is, that the eye
+makes its own pictures, and sees just what it has the power of seeing.
+
+     "O Lady! we receive but what we give,
+     And in our life alone does nature live:
+     Ours is her wedding-garment, ours her shroud!
+     And would we aught behold, of higher worth,
+     Than that inanimate cold world allowed
+     To the poor, loveless, ever-anxious crowd,
+     Ah! from the soul itself must issue forth
+     A light, a glory, a fair luminous cloud
+     Enveloping the Earth--
+     And from the soul itself must there be sent
+     A sweet and potent voice, of its own birth,
+     Of all sweet sounds the life and element."*
+
+     * Coleridge's Sybilline Leaves.
+
+[Illustration: 0176]
+
+It must, however, be confessed that it would be difficult at the present
+day to find poetry or beauty in the Fen country. The meres have been
+drained, the swamps have been reclaimed. The profusion of aquatic plants
+and wild-fowl has disappeared. Whittlesea Mere and Ramsey-Mere have been
+brought under the plough. Even the picturesque old windmills have given
+place to the hideous chimney-shafts of pumping stations worked by steam.
+We may almost parody the famous chapter of Olaus Magnus on "Snakes in
+Iceland," and say--there are no fens in the fen country. If we would
+know what the fens were once like, we must, read some of Tennyson's
+earlier poems, or better still perhaps, one of Kingsley's prose Idylls:
+
+"A certain sadness is pardonable to one who watches the destruction of a
+grand natural phenomenon, even though its destruction bring blessings to
+the human race. Reason and conscience tell us, that it is right and good
+that the Great Fen should have become, instead of a waste and howling
+wilderness, a garden of the Lord, where
+
+     'All the land in flowery squares,
+     Beneath a broad and equal-blowing wind,
+     Smell of the coming summer.'
+
+And yet the fancy may linger, without blame, over the shining meres,
+the golden reed-beds, the countless water-fowl, the strange and gaudy
+insects, the wild nature, the mystery, the majesty--for mystery and
+majesty there were--which haunted the deep fens for many a hundred
+years. Little thinks the Scotsman, whirled down by the Great Northern
+Railway from Peterborough to Huntingdon, what a grand place, even twenty
+years ago, was that Holme and Whittlesea which is now but a black,
+unsightly, steaming flat, from which the meres and reed-beds of the old
+world are gone, while the corn and roots of the new world have not as
+yet taken their place.
+
+[Illustration: 0177]
+
+"But grand enough it was, that black ugly place, when backed by Caistor
+Hanglands and Holme Wood, and the patches of the primeval forest; while
+dark-green alders, and pale-green reeds, stretched for miles round the
+broad lagoon, where the coot clanked, and the bittern boomed, and the
+sedge-bird, not content with its own sweet song, mocked the notes of all
+the birds around; while high overhead hung motionless hawk beyond hawk,
+buzzard beyond buzzard, kite beyond kite, as far as the eye could see.
+Far off, upon the silver mere, would rise a puff of smoke from a punt,
+invisible from its flatness and its white paint. Then down the wind came
+the boom of the great stanchion-gun; and after that sound another sound,
+louder as it neared; a cry as of all the bells of Cambridge, and all
+the hounds of Cottesmore; and overhead rushed and whirled the skein of
+terrified wildfowl, screaming, piping, clacking, croaking, filling the
+air with the hoarse rattle of their wings, while clear above all sounded
+the wild whistle of the curlew, and the trumpet note of the great wild
+swan.
+
+[Illustration: 9178]
+
+"They are all gone now. No longer do the ruffs trample the sedge into a
+hard floor in their fighting-rings, while the sober reeves stand round
+admiring the tournament of their lovers, gay with ears and tippets,
+no two of them alike. Gone are ruffs and reeves, spoonbills, bitterns,
+avosets; the very snipe, one hears, disdains to breed. Gone, too, not
+only from Whittlesea but from the whole world, is that most exquisite
+of English butterflies, _Lycaena dispar_--the great copper; and many a
+curious insect more. Ah, well, at least we shall have wheat and mutton
+instead, and no more typhus and ague; and, it is to be hoped, no more
+brandy-drinking and opium-eating; and children will live and not die.
+For it was a hard place to live in, the old Fen; a place wherein one
+heard of 'unexampled instances of longevity,' for the same reason that
+one hears of them in savage tribes--that few lived to old age at all,
+save those iron constitutions which nothing could break down." *
+
+     * Prose Idylls, New and Old, by Rev. Charles Kingsley.
+
+One of the most characteristic walks in the Fen country is that from
+Peakirk (St. Pega Kirk), a station on the Peterborough and Spalding
+line, to Crowland. The road runs along the top of a high bank, raised so
+as to be above the reach of the inundations. On either hand a flat and
+dreary plain stretches to the horizon. It is intersected by ditches
+filled with black stagnant water and fringed by aquatic plants, amongst
+which the yellow iris is prominent. Here and there a farm-house,
+approached by an avenue of pollard-willows, and surrounded by a few
+acres of well-cultivated land, breaks in upon the monotony of the scene.
+Elsewhere the vegetation is rank and coarse but abundant, upon which
+droves of horses and cattle thrive. A perpetual chorus of croaking from
+innumerable frogs in the marshes accompanies the pedestrian on his way,
+to which the sweet notes of the sedge-warbler and other small birds form
+an exquisite accompaniment.
+
+[Illustration: 0180]
+
+In the winter, when the fens are flooded and frozen over, the scene is
+one of rare interest and excitement. The clear sharp ring of the skates
+on the ice, the merry shouts of the skaters, the stir and bustle of a
+district usually so dull and stagnant, the feats of agility and skill
+displayed by a peasantry to skate a mile in two minutes, but without
+success, though he is said to have only exceeded the two minutes by two
+seconds.
+
+[Illustration: 8181]
+
+The ordinary pace of a fast skater is one mile in three and a half
+or four minutes." He who is so fortunate as to see one of the great
+skating-revels of these eastern counties under the glowing light of
+a sunrise or a sunset will not easily forget it--for the sunrises and
+sunsets of the Fen country are of incomparable splendour. It is an error
+to suppose that the dry pure atmosphere of Southern Europe is favourable
+to these magnificent effects of colour. Some of the finest sunsets I
+have ever seen have been when walking westward along Oxford Street on a
+frosty evening. The clouds of smoke and mist hanging over the great city
+have become suffused with a glory of crimson and purple and amber with
+which no Italian sky can compare. So in the Fen country, the clouds and
+fogs driven inland from the sea, and the humid vapours exhaled from the
+soil, glow with all imaginable hues in the light of the setting sun. The
+cold colourless landscape reflects the radiance and is tinged with the
+colours of the sky; the skaters as they glide swiftly past through the
+golden haze seem like actors in some fairy spectacle.
+
+[Illustration: 0182]
+
+Before the reclamation of the fens, the swamps and meres which covered
+so large a portion of the soil were the haunt of innumerable wild fowl,
+which were the source of considerable profit to the fensmen. Of late
+years their numbers have greatly diminished, but the London market is
+still largely supplied from this district. Flat-bottomed boats screened
+by reeds so as to resemble floating islands are fitted with heavy
+duck-guns, from a single discharge of which dozens of birds sometimes
+fall. One of the best duck-decoys remaining in East Anglia lies at a
+short distance from the road midway between Peakirk and Crowland. A
+small mere a few acres in extent forms the scene of operations. From
+this run eight ditches, or "pipes," as they are locally called, ten
+or twelve feet wide at the entrance, and about a hundred feet long,
+diminishing to a narrow gutter at the end. They curve round so that only
+a small part of the whole is visible from any point. They are inclosed
+by walls of matted reeds and roofed over by nets. Tame ducks are trained
+to lead the way into the mouths of the pipes, and are followed by
+the wild fowl. Little dogs, of a white or red colour, enter the pipes
+through holes made in the reed screens, gambol about inside for a minute
+or two, come out again, and again show themselves a little higher up
+the pipe. The wild fowl, though easily alarmed, are very curious and
+inquisitive. They swim or fly forward to investigate this strange
+phenomenon till they have gone too far to recede, when the net closes
+upon them, and the whole flock is taken.
+
+[Illustration: 0183]
+
+In the days of yore, when this district resembled a great lake studded
+with numerous islands fringed with willow groves, it was the seat
+of numerous ecclesiastical establishments of great wealth and
+influence--Peterborough, Crowland, Ely, Thorney, Spalding, Ramsey and
+others. The insulated sites were favourable to the seclusion of the
+cloister, the patches of land were exceedingly fertile, and the water
+abounded with fish and wild fowl. On one of these Fen islands rose the
+great Abbey of Crowland, the ruins of which come into view some miles
+before we reach it. Its foundation goes back to Saxon times, and it was
+repeatedly sacked by the Danes. Turketul, grandson of King Alfred, who
+through four successive reigns had rendered important services to the
+nation by his valour in the field and his wisdom in counsel, returning
+from a journey to the North, found the abbey a ruin. Of the once
+flourishing community only three monks remained to tell the story of
+the massacre of their brethren and the destruction of their abbey by
+the invaders. They accommodated their illustrious visitor to the best
+of their ability amongst the fire-scathed walls of the church, and
+entreated his intercession with the king for assistance. The interview
+made a deep impression on his mind, and, reaching home, he astonished
+his royal master by avowing his intention to become a monk. Accordingly
+he caused proclamation to be made by public crier that he was anxious
+to discharge his debts, and if he had wronged any man would restore
+fourfold. Resigning all his offices, Turketul repaired to the Fens,
+devoted himself to the rebuilding of the abbey and the restoration of
+its fallen fortunes, became abbot, and there spent the remainder of his
+days.
+
+[Illustration: 9184]
+
+A curious structure, known as Crowland Bridge, which stands in the
+centre of the town, has greatly perplexed archaeologists, and given rise
+to various legends. It consists of three semi-arches whose bases stand
+equi-dis-tant from each other in the circumference of a circle and unite
+in the centre. At the foot of one of the arches is a mutilated statue,
+apparently holding an orb in the right hand. Local tradition declares
+that three rivers ran through the three arches into an immense pit dug
+to receive them, and that the statue represents Oliver Cromwell with a
+penny roll in his hand! The most probable explanation of the remarkable
+structure is that it was a high cross built to form a trysting-place for
+the fens-men, who, when the Fens were flooded, might bring hither their
+produce for sale in boats, and that the figure is St. Guthlac, the
+founder and patron of the abbey.
+
+If East Anglia possesses little natural beauty, it is rich in historical
+associations. Reference has already been made to the many noble ruins
+of ancient ecclesiastical buildings throughout the Fen country. Their
+traditional reputation has been handed down in an old rhyming legend:
+
+     "Ramsey, the rich of gold and of fee,
+     Thorney, the flower of many a fair tree,
+     Crowland, the courteous of their meat and drink,
+     Spalding, the gluttons, as all men do think,
+     Peterborough the proud, as all men do say,
+     Sawtrey, by the way, that old abbey,
+     Gave more alms in one day than all they."
+
+[Illustration: 0185]
+
+It maybe doubted whether in any part of the world four such cathedrals
+can be found in the same compass as Lincoln, Peterborough, Ely, and
+Norwich. And it is certain that with the single and doubtful exception
+of Oxford, no such magnificent collection of collegiate edifices exists
+as those of Cambridge. "That long street which, beginning from the
+Trumpington Road, skirts the magnificent Fitzwilliam Museum and the Pitt
+Press; which passes by ancient Peterhouse and quaint St. Catherine on
+one side; which is there known as King's Road and fronts the glories of
+King's College, the Senate House, the Library, and Caius College; which
+then in a darkening and narrow street, almost a very gorge, skirts the
+old historic gateways of Trinity and St. John's, and afterwards emerges
+past the chapel which is the latest architectural glory of Cambridge,
+opposite the venerable round church and near the new buildings of the
+Union--certainly in its long broken wavering line, this street may enter
+into formidable competition with the High Street of Oxford or any of the
+streets of the world.
+
+[Illustration: 0186]
+
+There are, moreover, several distinct features in which Cambridge is
+unsurpassable. The wide silent old court of Trinity, with its babbling
+fountain; the glorious structure of King's College; above all, that
+exquisite scenery, a composition made up of many varying beauties known
+as the "backs of the colleges are separate features to which Oxford can
+hardly offer a parallel. As an Oxford poet has said:--
+
+     "Ah me! were ever river banks so fair,
+     Gardens so fit for nightingales as these?
+     Were ever haunts so meet for summer breeze,
+     Or pensive walk in evening's golden air?
+     Was ever town so rich in court and tower
+     To woo and win stray moonlight every hour?" *
+
+     * From Oxford and Cambridge, their Memories and
+     Associations. Religious Tract Society.
+
+[Illustration: 0188]
+
+Among the cities of East Anglia, Norwich claims special mention. Though
+a local couplet declares that--
+
+     "Caistor was a city when Norwich was none.
+     And Norwich was builded with Caistor stone."
+
+[Illustration: 8189]
+
+Yet the _parvenu_ upstart goes back to the time of the Roman occupation
+of the island. It was the capital of the Saxon kingdom of East Anglia,
+and for many centuries afterwards it held a prominent place in our
+history. So early as the reign of Edward III. it was one of the great
+centres of our manufacturing industry; the Flemish settlers having
+here introduced or developed the woollen trade. In pre-reformation days
+it was a stronghold of the Wyckliffites or Lollards, many of whom here
+sealed their testimony with their blood. In 1531, Thomas Bilney was
+added to the list of worthies who make up the Norwich Martyrology.
+Probably no other provincial town in England has given so many eminent
+names to the literature, science, and art of our country, from
+Sir Thomas Browne, author of the _Religio Medici_, down to Harriet
+Martineau. Even apart from these interesting associations, Norwich
+itself deserves and will well repay a visit.
+
+[Illustration: 9189]
+
+Surrounded by wooded slopes and pleasant meadows and winding streams,
+its streets full of quaint picturesque architecture, and dominated by
+its noble castle and cathedral, few or none of our English cities offer
+a more pleasing combination of urban and rural beauty.
+
+The tourist in search of the picturesque in East Anglia will do well to
+include Yarmouth among his wanderings.
+
+Its surroundings indeed are as flat and uninteresting as possible. The
+readers of David Copperfield will remember his description: "As we drew
+a little nearer and saw the whole adjacent prospect lying in a straight
+line under the sky, I hinted to Peggotty that a mound or so might have
+improved it; and also that if the land had been a little more separated
+from the sea, and that the town and the tide had not been quite so mixed
+up like toast and water, it would have been nicer. But Peggotty said
+with greater emphasis than usual, that we must take things as we found
+them; and that for her part she was proud to call herself a Yarmouth
+Bloater."
+
+[Illustration: 0190]
+
+But the town is a curious combination of English bustle and Dutch
+quaintness. Its quay reminds the traveller of the Boomptjies of
+Rotterdam; its "rows," only a few feet wide, with a narrow riband of
+sky overhead, recall the narrow streets of Genoa; its vast fleet of
+herring-boats discharging their silvery "harvest of the sea" at the
+wharves, offer a spectacle almost unique in the world. Unlike Norwich
+and many other neighbouring towns, Yarmouth has been the scene of no
+important event in our history, nor has it contributed any illustrious
+name to our list of worthies. A stained glass window in the parish
+church, however, perpetuates the earthly memory of one whom Scripture
+declares shall be "had in everlasting remembrance"--Sarah Martin, the
+prison visitor. She was a poor dressmaker, without wealth or social
+position, earning with difficulty a scanty subsistence by her needle,
+yet doing a work comparable to that of John Howard or of Elizabeth
+Fry. The great lesson of her life has been admirably inculcated by an
+eloquent American preacher:
+
+[Illustration: 8191]
+
+"Here, on a lowly bed, in an English village by the sea,--fades out the
+earthly life of one of God's humblest but noblest servants. Worn with
+the patient care of deserted prisoners and malefactors in the town gaol
+for twenty-four years of unthanked service, earning her bread with
+her hands, and putting songs of worship on the lips of these penitent
+criminals,--Bible and Prayer-book in his feeble hand, saying, at the
+end, 'I have been the happiest of men, yet I feel that death will be
+gain to me, through Christ who died for me.'
+
+[Illustration: 9191]
+
+"Blessed be God for the manifold features of triumphant faith!--that He
+suffers His children to walk toward Him through ways so various in their
+outward look--Sarah Martin; from her cottage bed, Earl Spencer from his
+gorgeous couch, little children in their innocence, unpretending women
+in the quiet ministrations of faithful love, strong and useful and
+honoured men, whom suffering households and institutions and churches
+mourn. All bending their faces towards the Everlasting Light, in one
+faith, one cheering hope, called by one Lord, who has overcome the
+world, and dieth no more! The sun sets; the autumn fades; life hastens
+with us all. But we stand yet in our Master's vineyard. All the days of
+our appointed time let us labour righteously, and pray and wait, till
+our change come, that we may change only from virtue to virtue, from
+faith to faith, and thus from glory to glory!"
+
+[Illustration: 0192]
+
+[Illustration: 0194]
+
+
+
+
+ROUND ABOUT SOME INDUSTRIAL, CENTRES.
+
+[Illustration: 0195]
+
+|IT is not to the manufacturing districts of England that the traveller
+in search of the picturesque would most naturally repair. To him they
+are often a region of tall chimneys and squalid-looking habitations,
+with a canopy of smoke above and black refuse of coal and iron on the
+banks of polluted rivers below. Something of this impression is due to
+the economy of railway companies, which, for the most part, have chosen
+to enter great towns by their least attractive suburbs, where land is
+cheapest. Hence, it is not from the carriage-windows of the train that
+Leeds or Sheffield, Wolverhampton, Birmingham, or Manchester should be
+judged. The traveller who will alight and explore may find a wealth of
+natural beauty which would astonish him.
+
+Nowhere, perhaps, is the contrast--due chiefly, no doubt, to geological
+structure--more apparent than on the edge of the "Black Country"
+in Staffordshire. From Dudley Castle the views are more curiously
+contrasted than in almost any other part of England. By night the whole
+country is lighted up on one side by the flames from the furnaces, which
+cover the country for many miles. By day the din of hammers and
+the clank of wheels, the roar of traffic and the shriek of the
+steam-whistles surge up, through the pall of smoke, upon the ear.
+Descend, and between the ironworks and coalpits the ground is unsightly
+with refuse heaps, while its frequent inequalities, and the bending,
+tottering buildings, show it to be honeycombed with mines. Vegetation
+is rare; what there is, is blackened and stunted; black also are the
+outsides of churches, chapels, schools. For inhabitants of such a
+district to gain any sense of natural beauty, they must be able at
+frequent intervals to escape; and, happily, to do this is within the
+reach of most. Railway communication with every part of England is
+constant and easy; and to know the difference that a few miles' journey
+will make in the scene, one has only to reascend to Dudley Castle, where
+it lies in the midst of its fair wooded domain.. Look from it to the
+north, east, or south, and all is smoke and flame; but turn to the west,
+and though the traces of unresting labour are still discernible, they
+soon give way to a country of richly diversified charm: glimpses are
+obtained of the beautiful valley of the Severn, the Wrekin towers
+grandly not many miles away, and the Malvern hills are dim and blue in
+the distance.
+
+In other manufacturing centres, if the contrast is not so marked, yet
+there is a similar accessibility to many a sequestered and lovely scene.
+The nearness of the wildest and grandest Derbyshire scenery to busy,
+unromantic Manchester has been pointed out in a previous chapter; and
+the neighbourhood of the great Yorkshire centres of industry is full of
+picturesque beauty. A little way out of Leeds, for instance, where the
+Liverpool Canal passes over an embankment near to the river Aire, may
+be found the scene of one of Turner's most charming sketches; and though
+the locality bears evident marks of the great industrial invasion, much
+of the beauty still remains. In the same valley, not far off, are the
+stately ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, while the broad reach of river that
+encloses it, and the green meadows on the bank, with the low wooded
+heights on either side of the valley, suggest the memories of a day when
+the surroundings of the old ecclesiastical building were such as the
+monks most dearly loved; while Esholt Hall, some few miles higher up
+the river, at the extremity of a noble avenue of elm trees, was, in
+its time, a nunnery on low-lying ground, circled by an amphitheatre of
+hills, in a vale even now rich and beautiful, and which once must have
+seemed the very abode of tranquillity and peace.
+
+It is, indeed, no small boon to the artizans of Leeds, Bradford, and
+many other crowded hives of industry in this part of England, that they
+are within so easy a distance of scenes which, in natural beauty, may
+vie with almost any in the land. Ivirkstall, as we have said, is close
+by the former town; and its grounds are thronged on every holiday by
+busy workers, who, whether intent or not on learning the appropriate
+lesson from the mouldering walls and tower, are at least fully alive to
+the advantages of fresh air, and of wide scope and range for healthful
+amusement. The like may be said of other places, lying only a little
+further off. There is Roundhay Park, for instance, one of the most
+splendid domains in England, now, through the wise liberality of the
+Leeds Corporation, the property of the people; while the public parks
+of many other towns, as Bradford, Halifax, Barnsley, with Manchester,
+Liverpool, Blackburn, gratify not only the instinct for recreation, but
+the desire for beauty.
+
+[Illustration: 0197]
+
+Or again, our traveller, in his pause at Leeds, may take the opportunity
+of visiting Ilkley, with its fine open moorland, where the brain-wearied
+worker may range at will. Then, a little way beyond Ilkley, lie the fair
+woods and noble heights encircling Bolton Abbey, where the Wharfe comes
+down, as yet unpolluted, from the moorland beyond; while the form of the
+White Doe of Rylstone, or the memory of the ill-fated heir of Egremont,
+seems yet to haunt the scene.
+
+A little further again, our astonished friend comes upon a _Clapham
+Junction_, but it is amid the silence of the hills! Ingleborough, with
+its marvellous caves, too little known, with its companion heights,
+Pen-y-gant and Whernside, rise from the valley: and every path is full
+of beauty, especially that which leads into the heart of Craven, where
+bold limestone scars, deep glens, and upland moors, with one deep,
+lonely tarn, dear alike to dreamers and to anglers, yield a succession
+of pictures, of which, among their many charms, not the least is their
+easy accessibility from the neighbourhood of clanking mills and inky
+streams. For Ilkley, Bolton, Harrogate, Craven, Clapham may all be
+reached by the busy worker of Leeds or Bradford, and much of their
+beauty enjoyed, in the leisure of a summer Saturday afternoon, or on a
+"Bank holiday." He who would be free from excursionists, with their loud
+talk, their demonstrative ways, their baskets and their bottles, must go
+another time; but even in those holiday-hours there is much to interest.
+The "trippers" may be an interruption to the dreamer, an annoyance to
+the sensitive; but it is good that people whose lives are usually so
+hard-pressed and monotonous should have the means of ennobling enjoyment
+within easy reach; and though occasionally there may be an element of
+roughness or even intemperance in the recreation, we should be unjust
+were we not to record our impression, from what we have often seen,
+that there is a decided improvement in these respects, and that the free
+access to hill and moor, to fine scenery and pure air, has its part in
+checking those vices which spring up like evil weeds in the unwholesome
+dwellings of a crowded population.
+
+[Illustration: 0198]
+
+The "Excursion Season," no doubt, has its drawbacks in Lancashire,
+Yorkshire, London, and everywhere else. There are holidays that depress
+rather than invigorate: the spirit of self-indulgence may adopt the
+pretext of needed recreation, and the Lord's day is too often heedlessly
+or wilfully disregarded; but on the whole it is good that God's fair
+world should be thrown open to all who can enjoy its beauties; and that,
+as we have seen, some of its richest beauties should lie at the very
+threshold of the hardest workers in the most unromantic scenes.
+
+[Illustration: 8199]
+
+The topic is almost inexhaustible; and the selection of places to be
+visited in reasonable time, from these "centres of industry," would be
+invidious to make. A little way beyond Leeds, as every one knows, lies
+Harrogate, the high table-land where medicinal waters have for long
+generations given to the place the fame of a true "city of Hygeia,"
+while we ourselves would still give the chief credit to the
+invigorating, stimulating air, and to the almost inexhaustible interest
+of the neighbourhood, occupying the mind of the visitor with a round of
+healthful delights. The visit to Studley Park and Fountains Abbey
+will probably rank among the chief of these. Again, as in the cases of
+Kirkstall and Bolton, reverting to the past, we admire the taste and
+wisdom shown by the cowled brotherhoods in mediæval times, in their
+choice of dwelling-places. Something, indeed, of the beauty which we now
+see may have been the result of their assiduous culture. It was part
+of their work to "make the wilderness to smile;" but they had a rare
+faculty for lighting upon scenes which, if not already beautiful,
+possessed an evident capability for becoming so. At Fountains
+both nature and art seem to vie with each other; and in the modern
+arrangement of the domain, the art may occasionally be the more
+apparent. The artistic yields to the artificial; the ruins have been
+maintained at the due stage of picturesqueness by careful oversight and
+repair; and the carefully prepared "surprise," which awaits the visitor
+at one stage of his progress through the grounds, is too theatrical to
+permit even one of the fairest of pictures to have its full effect. But,
+perhaps, all this is hypercritical, and, with every deduction, this old
+Cistercian abbey is one of the most beautiful, as it is one of the most
+complete mediæval monastic buildings in England. The tower, unlike that
+of its sister abbey at Kirkstall, is little impaired by the ravages
+of time, the plan of the edifice is easy to be traced; and the light
+pillars and lofty arches of the Ladye Chapel give to the whole a
+finishing touch of stateliness and grace. Then how pleasant to wander
+through the noble avenues of Studley, to gaze upwards to the gigantic
+spruce firs, or to climb the mound where linger the decaying forms of
+the rugged yew trees--remnants, it is said, of the "seven sisters" that
+spread their shade over the founders of the abbey, more than six hundred
+years ago!
+
+[Illustration: 9200]
+
+Still pursuing our way northwards, we reach the country of the Yorkshire
+Dales, where the Swale, passing by Richmond, the Tees, on the edge of
+Durham, and many smaller streams, descend from the eastern slope of the
+Westmoreland moors. Both abound in wild and charming scenery: the upper
+Tees-dale especially is singularly impressive. The river runs in
+its deep rocky bed through alpine-looking green meadows, with clean
+whitewashed cottages scattered here and there. Trees there are few or
+none, except a small kind of fir; and in place of hedges, low stone
+walls mark the boundaries of the fields. About five or six miles
+below its source, there forms the striking waterfall "High Force,"
+tumbling over a black basaltic precipice, fifty feet high; while yet
+higher up the stream, where it issues from a gloomy tarn on the edge
+of the Westmoreland moors, descending for some two hundred feet over a
+steep, irregular staircase, so to speak, of basalt, the weird wildness
+of the scene, in the midst of its hilly amphitheatre, approaches
+sublimity. Caldron Snout is the quaint name of this unique rapid, and
+the curious in geology, as well as the lover of the picturesque, will be
+well repaid by a visit.
+
+But by this time we have wandered some distance from our manufacturing
+centres. If, however, we have left the Yorkshire district behind, we are
+approaching the yet more black and busy coal districts.
+
+[Illustration: 0201]
+
+Teesdale itself has two sets of associations, and the same stream, whose
+rocks and dales are so romantic in its earlier course, becomes, by
+the time it reaches Stockton, a broad and inky flood, and so passes
+by Middlesborough--that wonderfully progressive seat of the iron
+manufacture--to the sea. We now pass on from town to town along the
+coast, each busier, blacker than the last, but with glimpses of rich
+beauty between, while the city of Durham, as seen from the rail, is one
+of the noblest views of rock and river, cathedral, castle, and town, on
+which the traveller's eye has ever rested. This river is the Weir;
+then the Tyne is reached, and Newcastle, the "capital of the north," is
+entered over its splendid High-Level Bridge.
+
+We can imagine no better route for a pedestrian excursion than the way
+from Denton Hall to Thirlwall Castle--about thirty-four miles; or, if
+the tourist wishes to see the whole, let him put Dr. Bruce's Condensed
+Guide and an Ordnance map into his knapsack, devote a week to the
+exploration, and proceed by leisurely stages from Wallsend, on the Tyne,
+to Bowness, on the Solway, a distance of seventy-three miles and a half.
+
+But our chief object in visiting these great centres of industry is to
+explore their neighbourhoods. Few towns in England are better worth a
+prolonged visit than Newcastle-upon-Tyne; but its attraction to us now
+is, that we can, at so short a distance from its busy streets, place
+ourselves amid rural scenes of surpassing interest, as well on their own
+account as for their historical associations.
+
+[Illustration: 0202]
+
+First and foremost, of course, there is the Roman Wall, with its long
+line of remains, still magnificent, and so varied from place to place,
+while the scenery that surrounds them is so striking, that sea to sea
+classic ground.
+
+[Illustration: 0203]
+
+A stranger might suppose that, after the lapse of long centuries, all
+these works, granting their existence once, must have disappeared. It is
+not so: save in the western portion, there is scarcely an acre without
+distinct traces; in many places all the lines sweep on together, parts
+in wondrous preservation; while many of the recent excavations present
+structures several feet high, giving one the idea of works in progress,
+so fresh that we are tempted to think of the builders as away but for an
+hour, perhaps to the noonday meal. To traverse the line of the wall is
+to pass along one continuous platform, whence the visitor revels in a
+succession of glorious panoramas.
+
+Returning to the busy east coast, very charming is the transition from
+the Tyne to the Coquet, loveliest of Northumbrian streams, as it flows
+down, interesting glimpses into the past opened up at every stage. Few
+persons, indeed, who have not visited the scene, have any notion of the
+variety and value of the remains which have withstood the wear and tear
+of sixteen centuries, during a great part of which period the wall was
+used as a quarry by the dwellers in the district.
+
+[Illustration: 8203]
+
+In many places the traveller, especially if aided by some competent
+guide, may discern the whole outline of the structure. It consisted
+of seven parts, viz., the Roman Wall proper, comprising ditch on the
+extreme northern side; (1) the military road; then the earthwork,
+consisting of (2) a wall; then (3) a space more or less wide from
+thirty feet to half-a-mile, middle of vallum, along of (4) a mound, or
+rampart, the largest of three; (5) a second ditch; (6) another mound,
+the smallest; and (7) yet another mound. The following section exhibits
+all in one view. Nor is this all, at every three or four miles we have
+fortified camps of several acres each, at every mile a castle, and
+between the castles watch-towers. Moreover, there are roads and bridges,
+traces of villas, gardens, and burial-places, making almost every inch
+from Thirlmoor, on the verge of the Cheviots, at the foot of heathery
+hills and through richly wooded vales, to Rothbury--already a famous
+place of resort from the district, and evidently destined to become
+more frequented from its surpassing beauty of situation, encircled by
+romantic hills, with the bright river running swiftly between.
+
+[Illustration: 0204]
+
+Thence the Coquet descends in many a winding by scenes of the richest
+sylvan loveliness to Warkworth, renowned for its hermitage, which is
+still, as the old Percy ballad describes it, "deep hewn within a craggy
+cliff, and overhung with wood." And so we reach the sea, where Coquet
+Island, with its lighthouse, lies amid the gleaming waters, scarcely
+suggesting, as we gaze upon it in the fair sunshine, how terribly the
+storm sometimes there rages, or how those dark rocks are chafed by the
+angry billows!
+
+But for the full splendour of cliff and ocean scenery we journey still
+a little northward, and come to Dunstanborough Castle. Here a dark ridge
+of basalt rises in pillared form sheer from the sea, and in the words of
+Alarmion, "the whitening breakers," surging with ceaseless thunder into
+the caves which pierce the cliffs, "sound near,"
+
+     "As boiling through the rocks they roar
+     On Dunstanborough's caverned shore."
+
+[Illustration: 0205]
+
+The view from the "Lilburn's Tower" in this ruined castle, commanding
+landwards the broad purple moors, extending in many an undulation to the
+rounded Cheviots, glimmering blue in the distance, and looking seawards
+over the restless ocean, beating ever at the foot of the black columns,
+while sea-birds are ceaselessly wheeling in mid air with shrill
+outcries, not unfairly vies with the wild magnificence of Tintagel, as
+described in our earlier pages.
+
+The two coast scenes are, perhaps, unequalled in the British Islands:
+the difference is that, while the Cornish scene lies in far-away
+seclusion, this of Northumberland is close by one of the chief lines of
+traffic, and within accessible distance of crowded populations. Yet even
+Cornwall is a great industrial centre. Its mining industries are never
+far away from us. Its wildest cliffs are pierced by shafts and adits
+leading down, as in the Botallack Mine, to labyrinthine passages far
+under the bed of the sea, where the miners can hear overhead the rush of
+the waves and the grinding together of the huge boulders.
+
+We have now reached the limit of our purpose, which was to show how near
+to the doors of the million is some of the most striking scenery of
+our land. Else from Dunstanborough Castle we could have pursued our way
+northwards at least as far as Bamborough Castle, not so much for the
+sake of admiring its noble ramparts and towers--once a fortress, now a
+temple of charity--or of gazing again upon the glories of cliff and sea,
+as of looking out across the waters to those rocky isles which, in our
+own time, have witnessed one of those deeds of unconscious heroism which
+do honour to our nature. For it was from one of those sea-beaten crags
+that, on the 5th of September, 1838, Grace Darling set forth upon her
+errand of mercy amid the raging waters, to rescue the survivors of the
+shipwrecked Forfarshire. "Her musical name," it has been said, "is the
+burden of a beautiful story of that love of man which is the love of
+Christ translated into human language and deeds." Four years after that
+great exploit the brave and gentle maiden died of consumption, brought
+on, it is said, by a visit to her brother, keeper of the lighthouse on
+Coquet Island: but she has left among our island race an imperishable
+name. Let us conclude these random rovings by a visit to her monument
+in Bamborough churchyard. Her figure lies as it were in slumber, an oar
+upon her shoulder, beneath a Gothic canopy, within sight and hearing of
+the waves. On the bright day of our visit the waves were murmuring and
+sparkling far below: the craggy islets in the distance were touched with
+sunlight, and we turned away, reminded less of the heroism that braved
+the storm, than of the heavenly home and the everlasting rest. "I saw
+a new heaven and a new earth, for the first heaven and the first earth
+were passed away; and there was no more sea."
+
+[Illustration: 0206]
+
+
+
+
+SNOWDONIA AND SOUTH WALES.
+
+|Some of the holiday excursions which live most pleasantly in memory,
+are those short "runs" of three or four days, to the mountain or the
+sea, which, it may be, some unexpected holiday has enabled us to take,
+or some "happy thought" has suggested as likely to be beneficial to mind
+and body. The amount of enjoyment that can be compressed into so brief
+a space of time is quite wonderful, provided only the place of visit be
+wisely chosen, the days long, and the weather suitable.
+
+In one such little tour, so full of interest that it is hard to believe
+it to have extended only from Tuesday morning to Friday afternoon, we,
+some years ago, made our first acquaintance with Snowdon. Starting from
+Caernarvon before breakfast, we walked to Llanberis, by a road leading
+gradually upwards beside a wild mountain torrent, till the lake from
+which it issues was reached, and the impression of the mountain grandeur
+first fully felt.
+
+The ascent of Snowdon has been so often described, that we need only say
+it was unexpectedly easy. The beauty of the path with which it began, up
+the bank of a mountain torrent ending in a strange and lovely waterfall,
+beguiled the first portion of the way, and the latter part opened up
+continually such glorious views, that the fatigue was lightened, if the
+progress was a little impeded, by long pauses of admiration. At length
+we reached Moel-y-Wyddfa, "the far-seen summit," and were upon the
+highest spot in England and Wales.
+
+[Illustration: 0208]
+
+[Illustration: 0209]
+
+Of the near prospect the chief wonder, to us, was the number of lakes,
+or llyns, visible. For this we were unprepared, and the endlessly
+diversified outline of these gleaming pools contrasted strikingly with
+the dark mountain masses amid which they lay. The distant views were at
+first very clear--Skiddaw (so said our guide) in the north, the Isle of
+Man in the west, appearing like a shadow on a sunlit sea, Cader Idris
+and Plinlimmon in the south, with the valleys lying green among the
+hills, and here and there the line of some sparkling stream, while the
+habitations of man were dwarfed to insignificance, or indicated only by
+dim patches, as of smoke hanging in the air. Suddenly a chilling breeze
+passed across the mountain top, and we were glad to find shelter in one
+of the little huts which crown--we will not say adorn--the peak. As
+the mists now began to gather, it was judged time to descend. The path,
+little more than eight feet wide, lay along one of the narrowest spurs
+of the mountain, while on both sides are tremendous precipices. To walk
+over this path in clear, calm weather would be a trial to the nerves;
+but now the mists were seething and whirling below, ever and anon
+rapidly parting, so as to disclose glimpses of bare rocks apparently
+rising out of an ocean of cloud, or miniature meadows of sunny green
+at unknown depths, or, strangest of all, leaden-coloured lakelets, each
+enclosed by its bank of fog. It was a weird scene, and though the path
+itself was tolerably free from mist, the sight of these abysses on
+either hand, suggesting the consequences of a slip, kept us all very
+quiet, very wary in our steps; and we were thankful when we reached the
+point where the mountain spur expands into a broad, safe, though steep
+and rugged, hill. Here we descended swiftly, and soon found ourselves
+upon the turnpike road to Beddgelert, our destination.
+
+This level dell, set in the midst of mountains, which rise on all sides,
+clothed at their base with rich woods, and then towering upwards,
+bare and rugged against the sky, surpassed all our expectations by the
+magnificence of its environment. The faithful hound, so well known in
+the stories of many lands, has here a tomb, in the very midst of the
+valley, overhung by a group of willows. Perhaps the legend is but a
+myth; it exists, we are told, in Persian, and in the dialects of India.
+The story as it stands is not only affecting, but contains a noble
+lesson; and it was in no sceptical spirit that we read Southey's fine
+ballad over again, at the traditionary scene of the incident. We ended
+the day by a stroll up to Pont Aberglaslyn, that most romantic of
+defiles, the only defect of which is, that it is too short. The road
+leads on one side by the "blue torrent," which dashes through the pass
+with headlong, tremendous force; on the other by towering mountain
+sides, clothed with lichen and a scanty covering of mosses and shrubs. A
+marked feature in these rocks is the evident trace of glacier action,
+to which Dr. Buckland has called attention by a memorandum in his
+own handwriting, framed and glazed, in the hotel. The bridge at the
+extremity of the pass, carrying the old road to Tan-y-bwlch, has been
+thus described by Miss Costello: "There, forty feet above the river,
+hangs in air apparently, just touching the two mountains, a one-arched
+bridge, clothed with a robe of ivy, whose festoons wave to and fro, as
+if the action of her leap had disturbed the drapery of some nymph, whose
+form had hardened into stone as she performed the wondrous feat. Below,
+beyond, around, the waters rave and foam and rush, and here for the
+first time I recognised the beautiful colour, familiar to my eye in the
+Pyrenees, which has given the name of the 'Blue Pool' to this lovely
+spot." The scene was one in which to rest and muse after the exertions
+and excitements of the morning; the only disturbance of the quiet being
+the pertinacity of the little sellers of spar and rock fragments, or
+these failing, of woollen socks, with equal readiness to sing us a
+song, if no purchasers could be found for their other wares! It must in
+fairness be added that the song was "sweet and low," and harmonised well
+with the now gathering twilight, and the sound of rushing waters.
+
+[Illustration: 0211]
+
+The next day's expedition must be more briefly narrated. Somewhat tired
+by the mountain climbing, we were content with a quiet walk up Nant
+Gwynant, descending by the eastern half of the Pass of Llanberis to
+Cape! Curig, and thence, beside the river Lugwy, to Bettws-y-Coed. Two
+lakes, passed soon after leaving Beddgelert, are of the most exquisite
+beauty, and the views of Snowdon, opened up a little beyond them, are of
+splendour unsurpassed.
+
+Reaching Pen-y-gwryd a little below the head of the Llanberis Pass, we
+pursued a route of a totally different character to Capel Curig. For the
+luxuriant beauty of Nant Gwynant we had now the sublimity of bare rock
+and crag; but there was something, we must suppose, uncongenial with our
+mood in the bleakness of the scene; at any rate, this part of the pass
+disappointed us. We have since found that the true grandeur of the
+defile is in the other, or western part, between Pen-y-gwryd and
+Llanberis. The rest at Capel Curig was specially welcome, and thence
+there was no want of interest in the route, on the bank of the romantic
+Lugwy. The Swallow waterfall must by all means be visited, repelled as
+is the true lover of nature by all those little arrangements that make
+the place a show--the urchin who points out the locked gate, for fear
+it should be missed, the keen-eyed dame with the keys, the guide to the
+torrent s brink, apparently solicitous lest any visitor should discover
+for himself the chief points of view, the miscellaneous guard of
+children, with a general expectancy of coppers.
+
+[Illustration: 0214]
+
+All this we did not like; and yet nothing could well be finer than the
+plunge of the river, with roar and foam, over the vast mass of rocks,
+slanting in rugged, picturesque confusion from the summit to the foot
+of the fall, and breaking the stream in its descent into numberless
+cascades and tiny rapids. The picture is one of marvellous diversity,
+and when the river is swollen by rain the rush and roar are tremendous.
+
+Our day's journey was nearly over, and another hours walk, or a little
+mure, brought us to that "paradise of painters," the Royal Oak at Bettws
+y-Coed. Happily there was room for us, though the inn seemed crowded by
+artists--many of them men of world-wide reputation--who come again and
+again to this fair valley, always to find something new in form or
+colour, light or shade. The next day was spent in rambling about the
+neighbourhood; and almost everywhere we found artists at work with easel
+and umbrella. Pont-y-pair was to us as an old friend, so often had we
+seen its semblance in exhibition-rooms and books of "landscape scenery."
+Few subjects, indeed, could be more adapted to the painter.
+
+[Illustration: 0215]
+
+But if this bridge, with its many lovely points of view, struck us with
+a sense of familiarity, we were startled, as well as delighted, by the
+exceeding beauty of the Fairies' Glen. A tributary stream here comes
+down to the Lugwy between high wooded banks, and over mossy rocks, which
+at many points can easily be crossed; the course of the rapid crystal
+stream for a long distance is almost straight, and the perspective from
+below is singularly fine.
+
+The holiday, rich as it had been in delights, was now almost over, and
+the last day was mainly spent in a water excursion, which a railway,
+since constructed, has rendered less familiar, but which even yet we
+venture to commend. The pretty little town of Llanrwst being passed, we
+pursued a pleasant road between the river Conway on one side and bosky
+cliffs on the other, as far as Trefriw, where a small steamer was
+waiting the turn of the tide to proceed down the river to Conway town.
+The sail on a fine day is one of the most charming of excursions, the
+scenery on both sides being of much interest, and the quiet rest on
+board the steamer being very agreeable after three days' walking and
+climbing.
+
+[Illustration: 0216]
+
+From Trefriw, we were told, a very short excursion, up to Llyn
+Geirionydd, would have brought us to one of the very finest points of
+view in all North Wales, the range of Snowdon, and the scarcely less
+imposing Moel Siabod, being thence seen in all their majesty. But it is
+always at once a regret and an alleviation, in leaving beautiful scenes,
+that much is left unvisited--regret that so many fair scenes have been
+missed, alleviation, because the very fact may form so good a reason
+some day for revisiting the place! As it was, with some time at our
+disposal after reaching Conway, we visited the splendid ruins of the
+castle, then went by rail to Llandudno, and after a hasty glance at the
+promenade by the bay, finished the memorable four days' visit to Wales
+by a bracing walk of six miles, round the Great Orme's Head on the path
+overlooking the sea.
+
+The holiday had been so successful, that on the next similar opportunity
+it occurred to us to spend the few days at command in South Wales. We
+are bound, however, to confess that the charm was felt to be inferior.
+
+Possibly we expected another Snowdonia, and so deserved to be
+disappointed. Nature does not repeat herself, and though the heights
+of Plinlimmon are commanding when attained, we do not recommend the
+traveller whose time is precious to traverse the intolerably circuitous
+path, amid bogs and morasses, which leads him wearily at last to the
+summit. The fresh breeze, and the wide prospect from the mountain's
+top are, to some extent, a compensation for the toil; while it is
+interesting to explore the sources of some of the many rivers which
+descend from the mighty store of waters embosomed in this hill--the
+Severn and the Wye being chief. But the longing for the beautiful was
+unsatisfied until we reached Pont-y-Mynach, the Monk's P>ridge; better
+known, perhaps, as "the Devil's Bridge." The former name denotes the
+fact that the monks of Strata Florida Abbey constructed the bridge:
+the latter, we suppose, expresses the simple wonder of the rustics, who
+could not conceive the daring work as wrought by any power less than
+supernatural. Why should they have taken for granted that the power was
+evil? We presume that the explanation is to be found in the sense of
+terror excited by the fury and the roar of the torrent. There is an awe
+akin to joy: a solemn yet glad uplifting of the soul, as at the sight
+of the starry heavens; and who could attribute the splendours of the
+firmament to any but a beneficent Creator? But amid the wilder scenes
+of this earth, there is not only the mere feeling of danger, but a dread
+which oppresses the spirit--a "fear that hath torment,"--an instinctive
+sense of sin, which has led men in such localities to imagine a
+_malignant_ spirit at work.
+
+A little way beyond the bridge are the falls of the Rheidol--a series
+of cascades, perhaps the most picturesque in Wales, not from the mass of
+water so much as from the magnificence of the narrow, rocky ravine, with
+its wealth of foliage. Perhaps the charms of this fair glen, with the
+comforts of the splendidly-placed hotel above, were heightened by the
+recollection of the long morning among the morasses of Plinlimmon; but
+our feeling as we sat at eventide watching the sunset, and listening
+to the roar of waters, was to surrender all the rest of our brief
+excursion, and to give ourselves there to the _dolce far niente_ of
+three long summer days!
+
+South Wales is so conveniently intersected with railways, that it
+is almost too easy for the tourist to pass from point to point. The
+preceding day, on a south-easterly slope of Plinlimmon, we had stood at
+the source of the Wye, and the desire possessed us to trace the progress
+of that river for awhile, to see if in its early meanderings it had
+the beauty which we knew so well to belong to it in its later and more
+familiar course. The excursion was not a disappointing one. It leads
+through some of the most primitive of Welsh districts: Builth, which in
+due time we reached, appeared quaint and attractive, and Talgarth,
+where our long walk was finished, might have tempted us, under other
+circumstances, to a longer stay, to explore the "Black Mountains," a
+wonderfully fine range of hills, girt with woods, pierced by lovely
+glens, and extending in ranges of lofty moorland for many miles.
+
+[Illustration: 8218]
+
+A short railway journey now brought us to Brecon, so nobly placed in the
+midst of its mountain amphitheatre as to invite a longer stay: but we
+had to hurry on, anxious to reach the far-famed Vale of Neath. A very
+wild walk led upwards for many weary miles, as it seemed, from Brecon to
+Maen Llia, the "Llia Stone," near which is the source of the Llia, one
+of the streams whose confluence form the Neath. Descending rapidly, we
+soon came to the point where the Llia is joined from the north-east by
+the Dringarth, another confluent.
+
+[Illustration: 9218]
+
+At Y-strad-fellte, a little further on, the glory of the mountain vale
+began to open out. We passed under the shadow of the crags to the
+east, as far as to the spot where, at a break in the rocky rampart, the
+Hepste, another tributary, hurries to meet the stream, forming a fine
+waterfall. At Crag-y-Dinas, a huge limestone rock, commanding from its
+summit both the upper glen and the lower valley as far as Swansea Bay,
+the beauty of the scene is at its height. Hardly any combination
+of scenery could be richer in its exquisite variety. The road
+now lay between these united streams and the Neath proper, which soon
+is joined from the western side by the Pyrrdin, up whose rocky glen we
+turned for the sake of its two charming cascades, the "Lady's" and the
+"Crooked" Fall.
+
+[Illustration: 8219]
+
+In fact, the whole neighbourhood teems with cataracts, many of exceeding
+beauty, and a day might well be spent in exploring the rocky dingles,
+through which the hurrying streams descend, until at Pont-Nedd-fechan,
+"the Little Bridge of Neath," they meet and mingle in one.
+
+The bridge is of one arch, thrown across the ravine near the point of
+confluence; it is festooned with drooping ivy, which almost reaches the
+surface of the stream, and in its secluded loveliness this little Welsh
+Lauterbrunnen, a village of many waters among the hills, may fairly
+compare with many scenes far better known to fame.
+
+The route down the valley to the town of Neath and the port of Briton
+Ferry, is rich in varied beauty. The river runs between the high
+road and the railway, with, in some part of its course, a canal. The
+surrounding hills are lovely in outline and richly wooded; and until
+we reach the seats of industry near the port, the water, lying in long
+reaches, or hurrying over its rocky bed, is crystal-clear. At a former
+time Briton Ferry was lovely beyond almost any other seaside resort.
+The river, here expanded to a noble breadth, flowed between lofty wooded
+cliffs to an open bay. The surrounding hills were crowned with noble
+oaks, and the romantic little village, protected from the north and
+east, had all the attractions not only of its own exceeding beauty, but
+of a mild climate, and of air exceptionally pure. All this is changed!
+
+[Illustration: 0220]
+
+Coal, copper, iron dominate the scene. The cliffs and the climate are
+there, and Swansea Bay is beautiful in calm or storm: but the oaks have
+fallen, the nooks and elens in the hills have become squalid in their
+bareness, the streams are polluted, the air is murky; but the docks are
+admirable, and the place is "rising rapidly." There is a divineness in
+man's industry, as well as in nature's beauty.
+
+     "The old order yieldeth, giving place to new,
+     And God fulfils Himself in many ways."
+
+We hurry away from the coalfields to where Carmarthen stands high on
+Towy bank, grandly overlooking the course of the river to the sea.
+Of the bay named from this ancient capital, the most beautiful part,
+perhaps, is where Tenby, from its rocky promontory, overlooks the sea.
+As we terminated our little tour in North Wales at Llandudno, so here
+at Tenby we bade farewell to the southern part of the Principality. But
+before leaving there was time for one little excursion along the coast,
+superb beyond all our expectation, especially for the first few miles,
+where the mountain limestone fronts the sea with bold, cave-pierced
+cliff. Our ramble terminated at Manor-beer Castle, one of the most
+extensive and complete of feudal fortresses in Great Britain. Perhaps
+there is no ruin of the kind in which the arrangements for residence as
+well as for defence can be so clearly traced, and certainly there are
+few which more nobly command the shore below.
+
+But our brief excursion was over. Some of the most picturesque parts
+of South Wales were, perforce, left unvisited--especially Tintern, that
+loveliest of British abbeys. Yet much had been seen to quicken the sense
+of beauty; while the glimpse of busy industry given us along the south
+coast, had quickened our desire to learn something more of the great
+population gathered by its docks and ports, its mines and furnaces. For
+it is the human interest which, wherever we may travel, must gradually
+become supreme, and nowhere more truly than in South Wales. The heroism
+often manifested in the midst of lowliest toil was never more strikingly
+illustrated than in a recent incident which has made the name of
+Pontypridd a household word in England. All know the story of the
+imprisoned miners, and the men who bravely volunteered to rescue them,
+daring the peril of compressed air, inflammable gas, and the pent-up
+floods of water. "Four men"--let the tale never be forgotten at British
+firesides!--"from one o'clock in the afternoon of Thursday the 19th
+of April, 1877, until three o'clock in the afternoon of the next day,
+worked on amid all these accumulated dangers until the rescue of their
+comrades was complete. Twenty-two others were only second to those four
+men--eleven in taking an actual share in the work of cutting through
+the barrier of coal, and eleven others in constant presence and
+superintendence. It was an intense exercise of self-devotion, patience,
+and deliberate courage--a concentration, as it were, of qualities which
+could only be acquired by the habitual exercise of these qualities in
+every-day life, and perhaps their cultivation through many generations."
+Happily they were successful, and the nation feels it to be but a worthy
+recognition of such heroism, that a new order of merit, instituted to do
+honour to gallantry in saving life on land, has been inaugurated by the
+gift of "the Albert Medal" to those Welsh colliers. Never has decoration
+been better earned! "Not the least satisfaction, however, of those who
+receive it ought to be, that they have been the means of drawing public
+attention and public honour to the whole class of brave and unselfish
+deeds of which they have furnished one of the most conspicuous of
+instances. There are no signs that the struggle of civilisation with
+nature will cease to demand its victims. The progress of mankind still
+depends, and must long depend, upon the bravery and unselfishness with
+which unknown perils are encountered; and, perhaps, as science opens up
+further fields of experiment and investigation, still bolder adventures
+may be demanded. It was but right that the stamp of national honour
+should be formally placed upon all such deeds; and the Welsh miners
+deserve the thanks, not merely of their comrades, but of their country,
+for having established in public esteem a new and permanent order of
+merit." *
+
+     * _The Times_, August 8, 1877.
+
+[Illustration: 0222]
+
+
+
+
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
+
+[Illustration: 0224]
+
+[Illustration: 0225]
+
+|SIR Walter Scott somewhere speaks of the Isle of Wight as a "beautiful
+island, which he who once sees never forgets, through whatever part of
+the wide world his future path may lead him." Whether this description
+be over-coloured or no, it is certain that there is hardly any spot of
+English ground so well adapted for a ramble of three or four days. There
+cannot be a more charming excursion than a cruise round "the Island,"
+as inhabitants of the neighbouring counties fondly call it, when the
+atmosphere is clear, and light breezes stir the water, without raising
+it to roughness. The Solent, with its richly varied shores, and its
+flotilla of white-sailed yachts, is first traversed: then round the
+Needles we meet the open sea, gazing as we pass by at the quaint, almost
+grotesque, forms of those pointed chalk pillars, the evident relics of
+cliffs worn away by the action of the sea. Scratchell's Bay, with its
+chalk precipices, is passed; and other bays, with their richly coloured,
+variegated sands, excite new interest and wonder. Then the Chines,
+or ravines in the cliff, diversify the outline; and so we reach the
+Undercliffe, that line of coast, whose perfect protection from the
+winter's cold, with the fresh purity of the sea-breeze, render it almost
+unique as a residence for the consumptive. Niton at one extremity,
+and Ventnor and Bonchurch at the other, with the five miles between,
+offering a succession of views unsurpassed in beauty. "The beautiful
+places," writes Lord Jeffrey, "are either where the cliffs sink deep
+into bays and valleys, opening like a theatre to the sun and the sea, or
+where there has been a terrace of low land formed at their feet, which
+stretches under the shelter of that enormous wall like a rich garden
+plot, all roughened over with masses of rock fallen in distant ages, and
+overshadowed with thickets of myrtle and rose and geranium, which all
+grow wild here in great luxuriance and profusion."
+
+[Illustration: 0226]
+
+After leaving Bonchurch, Shanklin Chine, Sandown Bay, terminated on
+the north by the magnificent chalk headland called Culver Cliff, or
+the Cliff of the White Dove, terminate the most beautiful part of this
+little voyage. After rounding one or two more headlands, Ryde comes into
+sight, and loyal travellers begin to look out for Whipping-ham church
+tower, and the woods and palace of Osborne; soon after passing which
+Cowes is reached, and the excursion is over.
+
+[Illustration: 9226]
+
+The interior of the island has many points of interest, but three or
+four days are sufficient for their exploration. A most interesting
+excursion is that to Newport and Carisbrooke Castle, so closely
+connected with the annals of Charles I. The visitor to Blackgang Chine
+will probably come to the conclusion that this and similar fissures
+in the chalk cliffs have been extolled beyond their deserts. There are
+combes in Devonshire, unknown to fame, far superior to either Blackgang
+or Shanklin, and at the latter especially, the elaborate artificiality
+of the whole scene is a little repellant, while the celebrated waterfall
+is commonly but a trickling rill. Blackgang is finer as a chasm, but the
+cascade is equally insignificant. The charm of "the Island" is, after
+all, in the climate, the colouring, and the glorious sea.
+
+[Illustration: 0227]
+
+Few walks of richer or more luxuriant beauty can be found within the
+same compass than that from Blackgang Chine to Ventnor. First we reach
+the Sandrock Spring, a chalybeate fountain in a cliff; the water, it
+is said, contains alum and iron in an unexampled proportion. There is a
+cottage, hard by, displaying a few tumblers, but customers do not seem
+to be many. As a spa, Sandrock is too plainly a failure; and for real
+invigoration to health and spirits, we would rather try the pure ozone
+on the summit of St. Catherine's Cliff, than imbibe any quantity of
+the chalybeate. Let the visitor stay long and inhale the glorious
+sea-breeze. He will indeed have pure air below, that is, unless the
+breezes, as is their wont sometimes, are stirring the chalk in dust
+clouds--a kind of white simoom!
+
+[Illustration: 9228]
+
+But at the best, the air of the Undercliffe is soft and languid,
+suggestive to the robust of delicate lungs; while yet those who are thus
+afflicted cannot be too thankful for a shelter where the atmosphere is
+as mild as it is pure, and the scene at every point, by land and sea,
+most beautiful.
+
+We descend from St. Catherine's down to Niton, and thence pursue our way
+by Puckaster and Mirables Lawrence, where the church was once accounted
+the smallest in England (twelve by twenty feet in the interior), but is
+now enlarged by the addition of a chancel.
+
+"Improvement" has been direfully at work since first we visited this
+little village and drank of the cool waters of "St. Lawrence's Well."
+The white, well-kept road is more level than the old picturesque path;
+instead of ivied cottages there are now shining villas with green
+blinds, walls for hedgerows, and, worst of all, the gushing spring flows
+somewhere in an inclosure to which there seems no access. It is a pity
+to have thus modernised so rustic and lovely a spot. But the flowers are
+still there, perfuming the air; and the myrtles and the fuchsias are not
+shrubs, but trees, and the luxuriance of southern climes surrounds us.
+As we walk along we speculate on the convulsions of nature that have
+prepared for us this little paradise. The undulating ground at our feet
+is evidently formed of vast masses of chalk and clay, which, at former
+periods, have broken bodily from the face of the cliff, slipped forward,
+and sunk down. The surface, disintegrated by aqueous and atmospheric
+action, has formed a kind of irregular terrace, the soil of which is
+most favourable to vegetation. The ground is now firm, the process
+of disintegration from above seems almost arrested; but there are even
+yet memories of landslips on a large scale, of which the traces are
+still visible.
+
+[Illustration: 0229]
+
+There is one walk in the island which no tolerable pedestrian should
+omit--that from Newport to Freshwater, or Alum Bay. Leaving the main
+road at Carisbrooke, a footpath leads upwards through fields richly
+cultivated and gay with wild flowers. The open down which forms the
+backbone of the island is soon reached. Keeping along the ridge the
+tourist will for some miles enjoy a scene almost unique in its beauty.
+The soft delicate curves and undulations which characterise the chalk
+downs, and which the unobservant traveller so often overlooks, may be
+seen in perfection. Nestling in many a sheltered nook are farm-houses,
+hamlets, and churches, embosomed in trees. Patches of fern, gorse, and
+heather diversify the landscape. And far below, on either side, is the
+sea--on the right hand the Solent, on the left the English Channel.
+After a while Freshwater comes into view, with its | line of cliffs
+rising sheer from the waves, and about half-a-mile inland the sheltered
+nook which has been made a classic spot as the home of the Poet
+Laureate. His description of it will be familiar to many readers.
+
+     "Where, far from smoke and noise of town,
+     I watch the twilight falling brown
+     All round a careless ordered garden.
+     Close to the ridge of a noble down.
+     You'll have no scandal while you dine,
+     But honest talk and wholesome wine,
+     And only hear the magpie gossip
+     Garrulous under a roof of pine.
+     For groves of pine on either hand,
+     To break the blast of winter, stand;
+     And further on, the hoary Channel
+     Tumbles a breaker on chalk and sand."
+
+A couple of miles more and we reach Alum Bay and the Needles, spoken of
+on a preceding page.
+
+[Illustration: 9230]
+
+Half a century ago few contributions to our religious literature were
+more widely and deservedly popular than Legh Richmond's "short and
+simple annals of the poor." Though of late years they have lost
+something of their popularity, yet many visitors to the island make
+a pilgrimage to Brading, with which the name of the devout author is
+inseparably connected. The grave of little Jane, the Young Cottager,
+is in the churchyard here: that of the "Dairyman's Daughter," Elizabeth
+Vallbridge, is at Arreton, three or four miles away towards the
+interior.
+
+Here for the present our rambles must end.
+
+[Illustration: 8230]
+
+It is impossible to retrace them without feeling how very beautiful
+England is. Some of her beauties are little known. Others are not
+appreciated as they deserve. Many an obscure and unvisited nook has a
+loveliness or a grandeur or a picturesqueness beyond that of the most
+famous show-places. But the glory of our island is that so many of its
+loveliest spots are associated with the memory of great names and noble
+deeds. The glory of England is in its people; but its people may well,
+in turn, exult and give thanks to God that He has given them so fair and
+splendid a home.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's English Pictures, by Samuel Manning and S. G. Green
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+<?xml version="1.0" encoding="iso-8859-1"?>
+
+<!DOCTYPE html
+   PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+   "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" >
+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en">
+  <head>
+    <title>
+      English Pictures, by The Rev. Samuel Manning, Ll.d., and the Rev. S. G.
+      Green, D.d.
+    </title>
+    <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve">
+
+    body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify}
+    P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; }
+    H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; }
+    hr  { width: 50%; text-align: center;}
+    .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; }
+    blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;}
+    .mynote    {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;}
+    .toc       { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;}
+    .toc2      { margin-left: 20%;}
+    div.fig    { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; }
+    div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; }
+    .figleft   {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;}
+    .figright  {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;}
+    .pagenum   {display:inline; font-size: 100%; font-style:normal;
+               margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%;
+               text-align: right;}
+    .side      { float: left; font-size: 75%; width: 25%; padding-left: 0.8em;
+               border-left: dashed thin; text-align: left;
+               text-indent: 0; font-weight: bold; font-style: italic;
+               font-weight: bold; color: black; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;}
+    p.pfirst, p.noindent {text-indent: 0}
+    span.dropcap         { float: left; margin: 0 0.1em 0 0; line-height: 1 }
+    pre        { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;}
+
+</style>
+  </head>
+  <body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+Project Gutenberg's English Pictures, by Samuel Manning and S. G. Green
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: English Pictures
+
+Author: Samuel Manning
+        S. G. Green
+
+Release Date: March 7, 2014 [EBook #45065]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ENGLISH PICTURES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger from page images generously
+provided by The Internet Archive
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+    <div style="height: 8em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h1>
+      ENGLISH PICTURES
+    </h1>
+    <h2>
+      By The Rev. Samuel Manning, LL.D., and The Rev. S. G. Green, D.D.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br />
+    </p>
+    <h4>
+      1889
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0001" id="linkimage-0001"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0006m.jpg" alt="0006m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0006.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0002" id="linkimage-0002"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0007m.jpg" alt="0007m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0007.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0003" id="linkimage-0003"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0009m.jpg" alt="0009m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0009.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <b>CONTENTS</b>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_PREF"> PREFACE: </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0002"> THE RIVER THAMES </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0003"> SOUTH-EASTERN RAMBLES </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0004"> OUR FOREST AND WOODLANDS </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0005"> SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0006"> THE COUNTRY OF BUNYAN AND COWPER. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0007"> THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0008"> WESTWARD HO! </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0009"> THE ENGLISH LAKES </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0010"> THE EASTERN COUNTIES </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0011"> ROUND ABOUT SOME INDUSTRIAL, CENTRES. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0012"> SNOWDONIA AND SOUTH WALES. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p class="toc">
+      <a href="#link2H_4_0013"> THE ISLE OF WIGHT. </a>
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /> <br /> <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_PREF" id="link2H_PREF"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      PREFACE:
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      A British nobleman&mdash;so runs the story&mdash;when travelling in
+      Switzerland was so impressed by the gloomy grandeur of one of the mountain
+      passes, that he exclaimed, "Surely there is no other view like this in the
+      world!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "I am told, my lord," said the guide, "that there is but one,"&mdash;naming
+      a view in the Scottish I lighlands.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Why," replied the nobleman, "that is on my own estate, and I have never
+      seen it!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The anecdote may be doubtful historically, but in idea it is true. <i>Non
+      é vero, ma ben trovato</i>.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The number of Englishmen who really know their own country is
+      comparatively few; and no doubt there are motives quite independent of the
+      love for natural beauty, which lead the hard-worked men of our generation
+      to escape at intervals to as great a distance as possible from the scene
+      of their daily occupations. The effort for this, however, often leads to
+      yet more harassing distractions; and many return from the eager
+      excitements of foreign travel more jaded and careworn than when they began
+      their journey. Nor is it so easy to escape after all! The great event of
+      the day at every Continental hotel is the arrival of <i>The Times</i>; and
+      you are at least as likely to meet your next neighbour on a Rhine
+      steamboat or at the Rigi Kulm, as in the valley of the Upper Thames, or at
+      Boscastle or Tintagel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is true that our rivers do not flow from glaciers, and our proudest
+      mountain heights may easily be scaled in an afternoon; we have no gloomy
+      grandeur of pine forests or stupendous background of snowy peaks; but
+      there is beauty, and sublimity too, for those who know "how to observe"
+      the earth, and sea, and sky: and in less than a day's journey, the tired
+      dweller in cities may find many a sequestered retreat, where pure air and
+      lovely scenery will bring to his spirit a refreshment all the more welcome
+      because associated with the language, the habits, and the religion of his
+      own home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The volume now in the reader's hand is intended to recall, by the aid of
+      pen and pencil, some English scenes in which such refreshing influences
+      have in the past been enjoyed. And, as every wanderer over English ground
+      finds himself in the footsteps of the great and good, ample use has been
+      made of the biographical and literary associations which these scenes
+      continually recall.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0004" id="linkimage-0004"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0010m.jpg" alt="0010m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0010.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0011m.jpg" alt="0011m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0011.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0005" id="linkimage-0005"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0013m.jpg" alt="0013m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0013.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0006" id="linkimage-0006"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0014m.jpg" alt="0014m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0014.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE RIVER THAMES
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0007" id="linkimage-0007"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0016m.jpg" alt="0016m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0016.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0008" id="linkimage-0008"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0017m.jpg" alt="0017m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0017.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE Thames,
+      unrivalled among English rivers in beauty as in fame, is really little
+      known by Englishmen. Of the millions who line its banks, few have any
+      acquaintance with its higher streams, or know them further than by
+      occasional glances through rail way-carriage windows, at Maidenhead,
+      Reading, Pangbourne, or between Abingdon and Oxford. Multitudes, even, who
+      love the Oxford waters, and are familiar with every turn of the banks
+      between Folly Bridge and Nuneham, have never thought to explore the scenes
+      of surpassing beauty where the river flows on, almost in loneliness, in
+      its descent to London; visited by few, save by those happy travellers,
+      who, with boat and tent, pleasant companionship, and well-chosen books&mdash;Izaak
+      Walton's <i>Angler</i> among the rest&mdash;pass leisurely from reach to
+      reach of the silver stream. Then, higher up than Oxford, who knows the
+      Thames? Who can even tell where it arises, and through what district it
+      flows?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      There is a vague belief in many minds, fostered by some ancient manuals of
+      geography, that the Thames is originally the Isis, so called until it
+      receives the river <i>Thame</i>, the auspicious union being denoted by the
+      pluralising of the latter word. The whole account is pure invention. No
+      doubt the great river does receive the Thame or Tame, near Wallingford;
+      but a Tame is also tributary to the Trent; and there is a Teme among the
+      affluents of the Severn. The truth appears to be that Teme, Tame, or
+      Thame, is an old Keltic word meaning "smooth," or "broad;" and that
+      Tamesis, of which Thames is merely a contraction, is formed by the
+      addition to this root of the old "Es," water, so familiar to us in "Ouse,"
+      * "Esk," "Uiske," "Exe," so that Tam-es means simply the "broad water,"
+      and is Latinised into Tamesis. The last two syllables again of this word
+      are fancifully changed into Isis, which is thus taken as a poetic
+      appellation of the river. In point of fact, Isis is used only by the
+      poets, or by those who affect poetic diction. Thus, Warton, in his address
+      to Oxford:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Lo, your loved Isis, from the bordering vale,
+     With all a mother's fondness bids you hail."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The name, then, of the Thames is singular, not plural; while yet the river
+      is formed of many confluent streams descending from the Cotswold Hills.
+      Which is the actual source is perhaps a question of words; and yet it is
+      one as keenly contended, and by as many competing localities, as the
+      birthplace of Homer was of old. Of the seven, however, only two can show a
+      plausible case. The traditional Thames Head is in Trewsbury Mead, three
+      miles from Cirencester, not far from the Tetbury Road Station, on the
+      Great Western Railway, and hard by the old Roman road of Akeman Street,
+      one of the four ** that radiate from Cirencester, or, as the Romans called
+      the city, Corinium. Here the infant stream is at once pressed into
+      service, its waters being pumped up into the Thames and Severn Canal,
+      whose high embankment forms the back-ground to the wooded nook which forms
+      the cradle of the river. It is an impressive comment on the reported
+      saying of Brindley the engineer, that "the great use of rivers is to feed
+      canals." Half-a-mile farther down, and when clear of the great
+      pumping-engine, the baby river issues again to light in a secluded dell,
+      and now has room to wander at its own sweet will. The cut on the preceding
+      page delineates its early course, and shows "the Hoar Stone," an ancient
+      boundary, mentioned in a charter of King Æthelstan, a.d. 931.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The river now receives a succession of tiny rivulets, which augment its
+      volume and force until, near the village of Kemble, it is crossed by a
+      rustic bridge,&mdash;"the first bridge over the Thames," as depicted for
+      us in the charming volume of Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall, with its three
+      narrow arches, and its sides undefended by a parapet, with the solitary
+      figures of the labourer and his boy, wending their way home after work.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * "The Ouse, whom men do Isis rightly name."&mdash;Spenser,
+     Faerie Queen.
+
+     ** The other three were the Fossway, or "entrenched road,"
+     running to the north-east, the Ikenild Street or "road to
+     the Iceni," nearly due east, and Ermine or Irmin Street,
+     passing through Cirencester, north-west to Gloucester, and
+     south-east to Silchester. Akeman Street is a continuance of
+     the Fossway, and runs south-west to Bath. Its name probably
+     means, "Oak-man," or Forester.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0009" id="linkimage-0009"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8019.jpg" alt="8019 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8019.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      What a contrast with the <i>last</i> bridge that spans the river, with its
+      mighty sweep of traffic below and above!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But we must dally yet among scenes of rural quietude. A few miles beyond
+      Kemble, the Thames has acquired force sufficient to turn a mill. Hence,
+      leaving the highway, and taking our path through pleasant meadows, we pass
+      by one or two rural villages, and so to Cricklade, the first market-town
+      on the Thames. And here a considerable affluent joins the stream&mdash;a
+      river, in fact, that has come down from another part of the Cotswold
+      Hills, with some show of right to be the original stream.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This is the Churn (or Corin; Keltic "The Summit"), which rises at "the
+      Seven Springs," in a rocky hill-side, about three miles from Cheltenham,
+      and runs by Cirencester (Corin-cester) down to Cricklade. I he claim of
+      the Churn is the twofold one, of greater height in its source than the
+      traditional meadows and beside quiet villages: much, to say the truth,
+      like other rivers, or distinguished only by the transparency of its gentle
+      stream. For, issuing from a broad surface of oolite rock, it has brought
+      no mountain débris or dull clay to sully its brightness, no town
+      defilement, nor trace of higher rapids, in turbid waves and hurrying foam.
+      It lingers amid quiet beauties, scarcely veiling from sight the rich
+      herbarium which it fosters in its bed, save where the shadows of trees
+      reflected in the calm water mingle confusedly with the forms of aquatic
+      plants. Meanwhile other streams swell the current. As an unknown poet
+      somewhat loftily sings:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "From various springs divided waters glide,
+     In different colours roll a different tide;
+     Murmur along their crooked banks awhile:&mdash;
+     At once they murmur, and enrich the isle,
+     Awhile distinct, through many channels run,
+     But meet at last, and sweetly flow in one;
+     There joy to lose their long distinguished names,
+     And make one glorious and immortal Thames."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Of the little streams thus loftily described, the most important are the
+      Coln and the Leche; as Drayton has it in his <i>Polyolbion</i>:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Clere Coin and lovely Leche, so dun from Cotswold's plain."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0011" id="linkimage-0011"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9020.jpg" alt="9020 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9020.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The confluence of these streams with the Thames at Lechlade makes the
+      river navigable for barges; and from this point it sets up a towingpath.
+      At this point also end may be seen&mdash;a distant glimmering circle&mdash;from
+      the other. Then the canal pursues a level course for some miles, and
+      descends about 130 feet to the Thames at Lechlade, having traversed in all
+      a distance of rather more than thirty miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Below Lechlade the river passes into almost perfect solitude. Few walks in
+      England of the same distance are at once so quietly interesting and so
+      utterly lonely as the walk along the grassy towing-path of the Thames. A
+      constant water-traffic was once maintained between London and Bristol by
+      way of Lechlade and the canal; but this is now superseded by the railway,
+      and the sight of a passing barge is rare.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0012" id="linkimage-0012"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0021m.jpg" alt="0021m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0021.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The river after leaving Gloucestershire divides, in many a winding, the
+      counties of Oxford and Berks. The hills of the latter county, with their
+      wood-crowned summits, pleasantly bound the view to the south; Farringdon
+      Hill being for a long distance conspicuous among them. Half-way between
+      Lechlade and Oxford is the hamlet of Siford, or Shifford&mdash;one of the
+      great historic spots of England, if rightly considered, although now
+      isolated and unknown. For there, as an ancient chronicler commemorates,
+      King Alfred the Great held Parliament a thousand years ago.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "There sat at Siford many thanes and many bishops,
+     Learned men, proud earls and awful knights,
+     There was Karl Ælfric, learned in the law,
+     And Ælfred, England's herdsman, England's darling,
+     He was King in England.
+     He began to teach them how they should live."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Not far off is New Bridge, the oldest probably on the Thames. But it was
+      "new" six hundred years ago. Its solid construction shows that it was once
+      a great highway; while its buttresses, pointed up the stream, betoken the
+      power of the floods which the careful draining of later days has done so
+      much to moderate.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A short distance farther, the Windrush flows down from the north, by
+      Bourton-"on-the-water," Burford and Witney, to unite with the broadening
+      river; then the Evenlode, which the traveller by the Oxford, Worcester,
+      and Wolverhampton Railway so often crosses and recrosses in his journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Throughout, the river is carefully adapted for the purposes of a
+      navigation now little needed. The occasional locks and the frequent weirs
+      break the level, and the latter especially&mdash;sometimes miniature
+      rapids or waterfalls&mdash;add picturesqueness to the scene. An expert
+      oarsman may descend them all with safety; but many prefer to lift the boat
+      on to the bank and drag it down to the lower level. These are
+      interruptions to the journey, which, on the whole, is very enjoyable.
+      Should the tourist have time at command, he may diverge to the right hand
+      or to the left, to scenes of rich beauty or historic interest. Cumnor
+      Hall, a name familiar to all readers of Sir Walter Scott from the tragic
+      fate of Amy Robsart, lies a little way to the right of Bablock Hythe
+      Ferry; Stanton Harcourt a short distance to the left. At the latter place
+      Alexander Pope once resided, in a tower of the old mansion, which time or
+      reverence has spared, in the ruin of almost all the rest. A pane of glass,
+      in one of the tower windows, bore an inscription from the poet's own hand.
+      "In the year 1718, Alexander Pope finished here the Fifth Volume of
+      Homer." The pane is now at Nuneham Courtney, the mansion of the Harcourts.
+      At Bablock Hythe Ferry the traveller is scarcely four miles from Oxford by
+      the direct road; but if he keep to his boat, which he will not regret, he
+      will find the distance fully twelve. The detour leads him first past the
+      lovely wooded slopes and glades of Wytham Abbey, then to the scanty ruins
+      of Godstow Nunnery, with its memories of Fair Rosamond. But we must not
+      linger now, though opposite to the ruins a charming country hostelry
+      offers its attractions, and the trout are leaping in the stream; for we
+      are on our way to Oxford.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The impression which the first sight of this fair and ancient city makes
+      upon the stranger is probably unique, in whatever direction he first
+      approaches it, and from whatever point he first descries its spires and
+      towers. True, of late years the accessories of the railway invasion, so
+      long resisted by the University authorities, have given a new aspect to
+      the scene; but nothing can quite destroy the stately dignity and venerable
+      calm. The traveller who approaches by the way we are describing, receives
+      the full impression. As he floats along the quiet surface of the river,
+      the stately domes and towers come suddenly in sight, and the green railway
+      embankment in the foreground scarcely impairs the antique beauty of the
+      picture.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Oxford is probably Ousenford&mdash;the ford over the Ouse or "Water." Its
+      waters indeed are many, and almost labyrinthine; but we get clear of the
+      river at Hythe Bridge, and care for awhile only to explore Colleges,
+      Halls, and Libraries; pausing before the Martyrs' Memorial, to breathe the
+      hope that "the candle" once lighted there may still brightly burn, while
+      Keble College, farther on, is a memorial of one, who though of another
+      school of thought from ourselves, has given musical and touching
+      expressions tu the deepest thoughts of devout hearts.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0013" id="linkimage-0013"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0023m.jpg" alt="0023m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0023.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      But to describe this wonderful city is beyond our present scope. Let us
+      hurry down to Christ Church Meadows, where the Cherwell sweeps round to
+      join the Thames; then across to the Broad Walk, past Merton Meadow and the
+      Botanical Gardens, to Magdalen Bridge, where a splendid view of the city
+      is again obtained; thence up High Street to the centre of the city, and
+      down St. Aldate's Street to Folly Bridge, where boats of all sizes are in
+      waiting. This bridge may appear strangely named, as a main approach to the
+      renowned seat of learning.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0014" id="linkimage-0014"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9024.jpg" alt="9024 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9024.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Various stories are told as to the origin of the name. Perhaps it may be
+      from some tradition of Roger Bacon, who had his study and laboratory here,
+      over the ancient gate. There was a saying, that this study would fall when
+      a man more learned than Bacon passed under it; so that the name may be an
+      uncomplimentary reference to the troops of students entering Oxford by
+      this thoroughfare. But such speculations need nut hinder us. We are bound
+      for London&mdash;a voyage of some 115 miles, though only 52 by rail. Many
+      boatmen will prefer to take the train for Goring, saving six-and-twenty
+      miles of water travelling, and avoiding the most tedious and on the whole
+      least picturesque part of the journey. Still, in any case Nuneham must be
+      seen, with Iffley Lock and Sandford Lasher&mdash;familiar names to boating
+      men!&mdash;upon the way.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0015" id="linkimage-0015"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8024.jpg" alt="8024 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8024.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Nuneham is a charming domain, scene of picnic parties innumerable, yet
+      freshly beautiful to every visitor who can enjoy woodland walks and
+      verdant slopes, with gardens planned by Mason the poet, in which art and
+      taste have, as it were, only improved upon the hints and suggestions of
+      nature; and breezy heights from which the prospect, if less extensive than
+      some other far-famed English views, may surely vie in loveliness with any
+      of them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The intending visitor must be careful to ascertain the days and conditions
+      of access to the grounds; and in his ramble must be sure to include the
+      old "Carfax" conduit, removed in 1787 from the "four ways" (for the "Car"
+      is evidently <i>quatre</i>, whatever the "fax" may be) in Oxford, and set
+      on a commanding eminence, the distant spires and towers of the city, with
+      Blenheim Woods in the back-ground, being seen in one direction, and the
+      view in another bounded by the line of the Chiltern Hills.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0016" id="linkimage-0016"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8025.jpg" alt="8025 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8025.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      When the oarsman has once left behind the wooded slopes of Nuneham, with
+      the overhanging trees reflected in the silvery waters, he will find the
+      way to Abingdon monotonous. He will perhaps be startled by seeing picnic
+      parties in large boats, towed from the shore by stalwart peasants,
+      harnessed to the rope. Let us hope that the toil is easier than it looks!
+      On the whole, we do not recommend the long détour by Abingdon, although
+      Clifton Hampden is charming, and Dorchester, near the junction of the
+      Thame and the Thames&mdash;once a Roman camp, afterwards the see of the
+      first Bishop of Wessex, but now a poor village&mdash;is well worth a
+      visit. It is startling to find a minster in a hamlet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Probably, however, the antiquarian may be more interested in the remains
+      of the Whittenham earthworks, which in British or Saxon times defended the
+      meeting-point of the rivers. The Thame Hows in on the left.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      On the hill to the right is Sinodun, a remarkably fine British camp. The
+      whole neighbourhood, so still and peaceful now, tells of bygone greatness,
+      and of many a struggle of which the records have vanished from the page of
+      history. Not far, however, from Dorchester in another direction is
+      Chalgrove Field, where the brave and patriotic Hampden received his
+      death-wound. His name, and that of Falkland, to be noticed farther on,
+      awaken in these scenes now so tranquil the remembrance of the stormy times
+      when, in this Thames Valley, were waged those conflicts out of which in so
+      large a measure sprang the freedom and progress of modern England.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Dorchester we are still eleven miles by water from Goring; and though
+      the angler may loiter down the stream, we must hasten on, though ancient
+      Wallingford and rustic Cleeve are not unworthy of notice. At Goring the
+      chief beauties of the river begin to disclose themselves.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Ralph Waldo Emerson says of the English landscape, that "it seems to be
+      finished with the pencil instead of the plough." Our fields are cultivated
+      like gardens. Neat, trim hedgerows, picturesque villages, spires peeping
+      from among groves of trees, cottages gay with flowers and evergreens,
+      suggest that the landscape gardener rather than the agriculturist has been
+      everywhere at work. If this be true of England as a whole, it is yet more
+      strikingly true of the district through which we are about to pass. A
+      thousand years of peaceful industry have subdued the wildness of nature;
+      and the river glides between banks radiant with beauty: "The little hills
+      rejoice on every side; the pastures are clothed with Hocks, the valleys
+      are covered over with corn; they shout for joy, they also sing."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Yet there is no lack of variety. The course of the river is broken up by
+      innumerable "aits" ("eyots"), or little islands; some covered with trees
+      which dip their branches into the stream, others with reeds and osier, the
+      haunts of wild fowl; on others, again, a cottage or a summer-house peeps
+      out from amongst the foliage. Sometimes these aits seem to block up the
+      channel, and leave no exit, so that the boat seems to be afloat on a tiny
+      lake, till a stroke or two of the oar discloses a narrow passage into the
+      stream beyond. Sometimes a line of chalk down bounds the view, its
+      delicately curved sides dotted over with juniper bushes, the dark green of
+      which contrasts finely with the light grey of the turf. Then comes a range
+      of hanging beech-wood coming down to the water's edge, or a broad expanse
+      of meadow, where the cattle wade knee-deep in grass, or a mansion whose
+      grounds have been transformed into a paradise by lavish expenditure and
+      fine taste, or a village, the rustic beauty of which might realise the
+      dreams of poet or of painter. The locks, mill-dams, or weirs with their
+      dashing waters, give animation to the scene. Nor is that additional charm
+      often wanting, of which Dr. Johnson used to speak. "The finest landscape
+      in the world," he would say, "is improved by a good inn in the
+      foreground." True, there are no great hotels, after the modern fashion;
+      but a series of comfortable homely village inns will be found, such as
+      Izaak Walton loved, and which are still favourite haunts with the brethren
+      of "the gentle craft." The landlord, learned in all anglers' lore, is
+      delighted to show where the big pike lies in a sedgy pool, where the perch
+      will bite most freely, or to suggest the most killing fly to cast for
+      trout over the mill-pond; and is not too proud, when the day's task is
+      done, to wait upon the oarsman or the angler at his evening meal.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * As we write, the following letter to the Times arrests our
+     attention; it is too graphic, as well as accurate, to be
+     lost:&mdash;
+
+     "I will not tell you where I am, except that I am staying at
+     an hotel on the banks of the River Thames. I hesitate to
+     name the place, charming as it is, because I am sure, when
+     its beauties are known, it will be hopelessly vulgarised.
+     Mine host, the pleasantest of landlords, his wife, the most
+     agreeable of her sex, will charge, too, in proportion as the
+     plutocracy invade us. I am surrounded by the most charming
+     scenery. Few know, and still fewer appreciate the beauties
+     of our own River Thames. I have been up and down the Rhine;
+     but I confess, taking all in all, Oxford to Gravesend
+     pleases me more. Herc, in addition to what I have described,
+     I am on the river's brink; I can row about to my heart's
+     content for a very moderate figure; excellent fishing;
+     newspapers to be procured, and postal arrangements of a
+     character not to worry you, and yet sufficient to keep you
+     <i>au fait</i> with your business arrangements. What do I want
+     more? Prices are moderate, the village contains houses
+     suitable to all clashes, and the inhabitants are pleased to
+     see you. I can wear flannels without being stared at, and I
+     can see the opposite sex, in the most bewitching and
+     fascinating of costumes, rowing about (with satisfaction,
+     too) the so-called lords of creation. As for children, there
+     is no end of amusement for them&mdash;dabbling in the water,
+     feeding the swans, the fields, and the safety of a punt. We
+     have both aristocratic and well-to-do people here&mdash;names
+     well known in town; but I must not, nor will I, betray them.
+     On the towing-path this morning was to be seen the smartest
+     of our Judges in a straw hat and a tourist suit, equally
+     becoming to him as it was well cut.
+
+     "Let me advise all your readers who are hesitating where to
+     go not to overlook the natural beauties of our River Thames.
+     There are one or two steamers that make the journey up and
+     down the river in three days, stopping at various places,
+     and giving ample opportunity for passengers both to see and
+     appreciate the scenery.
+
+     "E. C. W."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      To describe in detail all the points of beauty that lie before us, would
+      require far more space than we have at disposal; and a dry catalogue of
+      names would interest no one. We have started, as said before, from Goring,
+      where the twin village Streatley&mdash;bearing in its name a reminiscence
+      of the old Roman road Ikenild Street,&mdash;nestles at the foot of its
+      romantic wooded hill. The comfort of the little hostelry and the charm of
+      the scenery invite a longer stay, but we must press on. Pangbourne and
+      Whitchurch, also twin villages, joined by a pretty wooden bridge, once
+      more invite delay. On the right, the little river Pang flows in between
+      green hills; on the left, or the Whitchurch side, heights clothed with the
+      richest foliage shut in the scene. The cottages are embosomed amid the
+      trees; the clear river catches a thousand reflections from hillside, and
+      sky; the waters of the weir dash merrily down; and the fishermen, each in
+      his punt moored near mid-stream, yielding themselves to the tranquil
+      delight of the perfect scene, are further gladdened by many an encouraging
+      nibble. Surely of all amusements the most restful is fishing from a punt!
+      Most persons would find a day of absolute idleness intolerable. But here
+      we have just that measure of expectation and excitement which enable even
+      a busy and active man to sit all day doing nothing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0017" id="linkimage-0017"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8027.jpg" alt="8027 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8027.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Into the question of the cruelty of the sport we do not enter; but its
+      soothing, tranquillising character cannot be denied. For ourselves, our
+      business is not to angle, but to observe. As we row past these grave and
+      solemn men, absorbed in the endeavour to hook a dace or gudgeon, and
+      recognise among them one or two of the hardest workers in London, we feel,
+      at any rate, that the familiar sneer about "a rod with a line at one end,
+      and a fool at the other," may not be altogether just.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Passing a series of verdant lawns, sloping to the river's brink, we reach
+      Mapledurham and Purley, on opposite sides of the river at one of its most
+      exquisite bends. The former place is celebrated by Pope as the retreat of
+      his ladye love Martha Blount; when
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "She went to plain-work, and to purling brooks,
+     Old-fashioned halls, dull aunts, and croaking rooks."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The latter was the residence of Warren Hastings during his trial, and is
+      not to be confounded with the Purley in Surrey, where Horne Tooke wrote
+      his celebrated <i>Diversions</i>, on the origin and history of words.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The next halting-place is Caversham, sometimes magniloquently described as
+      "the port of Reading." Here the Thames widens out, as shown in the view
+      which prefaces the present chapter; the eel-traps, or "bucks," extending
+      half across the river. On the occasion of our visit to the spot, it was
+      our intention to stop for the night at Caversham; but as the inn was
+      crowded and noisy, we resolved to push on to Sonning. The evening was
+      already closing in, and before we reached our destination it had grown
+      dark. The trees stood up solemnly against the sky, from which the twilight
+      had not wholly departed. Their shadows fell mysteriously across the river,
+      rendering the task of steering a difficult one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0018" id="linkimage-0018"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9028.jpg" alt="9028 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9028.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      At length the welcome lights of the village were descried through the
+      deepening gloom; and we landed, having suffered no more serious mishap
+      than running into an ait, which our steersman mistook for a shadow, in the
+      endeavour to avoid a shadow which he mistook for the bank. Next morning,
+      after a plunge into the clear cool water of the pool at the foot of
+      Sonning Weir, a scamper round the village, a climb to the top of the tower
+      for the magnificent view, and a hearty breakfast, we were ready for an
+      early start, whilst the dew was yet on the grass, and the air had not lost
+      its freshness. Here the Kennet, "for silver eels renowned," as Pope has
+      it, flows in from the southwest, with its memories of the high-minded and
+      chivalrous Falkland, who fell at the battle of Newbury, on the banks of
+      this river. A little lower down the Loddon enters the Thames from the
+      south, between Shiplake and Wargrave. The picturesque churches of these
+      two villages were soon passed, and we entered the fine expanse of Henley
+      Reach, famous in boat-racing annals. Here for many years the University
+      matches were rowed before their removal to Putney. No sheet of water could
+      be better suited to the purpose, and the change is regretted by many
+      boating-men.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0019" id="linkimage-0019"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0030m.jpg" alt="0030m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0030.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      About four miles below Henley, in one of the loveliest spots on the river,
+      are the ruins of Medmenham Abbey, notorious in the latter half of the
+      eighteenth century, as the scene of the foul and blasphemous orgies of the
+      "Franciscans." The club took its name from Sir Francis Dashwood, its
+      founder, and numbered amongst its members many who were conspicuous, not
+      only for rank and station, but for intellectual ability and political
+      influence. Its proceedings were invested with profound secrecy; but enough
+      was known to show that the most degrading vices were practised, and the
+      lowest depths of wickedness reached;&mdash;strange profanation of one of
+      Nature's loveliest shrines!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We are now approaching the point at which the beauty of the river
+      culminates. From Marlow, past Cookham, Hedsor and Cliefden, to Maidenhead,
+      a distance of eight or ten miles, we gladly suspend the labour of the oar,
+      and let the boat drift slowly with the stream. As we glide along, even
+      this gentle motion is too rapid, and we linger on the way to feast our
+      eyes with the infinitely varied combination of chalk cliff and swelling
+      hill and luxuriant foliage which every turn of the river brings to view:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Woods, meadows, hamlets, farms,
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Spires in the vale and towers upon the hills;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0020" id="linkimage-0020"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8031.jpg" alt="8031 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8031.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  The great chalk quarries glaring through the shade.
+
+  The pleasant lanes and hedgerows, and those homes
+  Which seemed the very dwellings of content and peace and sunshine." *
+
+     * Down Stream to London. By the Rev. S. J. Stone.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The "castled crags" of the Rhine and the Moselle,&mdash;the "blue rushing
+      of the arrowy Rhone,"&mdash;the massive grandeur of the banks of the
+      Danube, are far more imposing and stimulating; but the quiet, tranquil
+      loveliness of this part of the Thames may make good its claim to take rank
+      even with those world-famed rivers. There is something both unique and
+      charming in the dry "combes," or fissures in the chalk ranges, rapidly
+      descending, and garnished with sweeping foliage of untrimmed beech-trees.
+      The branches gracefully bend down to the slope of the rising sward; while,
+      from the steepness of the angle, the tree-tops appear from below as a
+      succession of pinnacles against the sky. Many a roamer through distant
+      lands has come home to give the palm for the perfection of natural beauty
+      to the rocks and hanging woods of Cliefden. That they are within an hour's
+      run of London does not indeed abate their claim to admiration, but may
+      suggest the reason why they are so comparatively little known. The mansion
+      on the height, designed by Sir Charles Barry, is now in the possession of
+      the Duke of Westminster.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0021" id="linkimage-0021"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9032.jpg" alt="9032 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9032.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Maidenhead is on the other side of the river; Taplow opposite. The bridge
+      between them&mdash;one of Brunei's works, will be noted for its enormous
+      span; its elliptical brick arches being, it is said, the widest of the
+      kind in the world. From this point, if the beauty decreases, the
+      historical interest becomes greater at every turn. First we pass the
+      village and church of Bray. The scenery here is of little interest; but it
+      is impossible not to give a thought to the vicar, Symond Symonds,
+      commemorated in song. Let it be noted, however, that the lyrist has used a
+      poetic licence in his dates. The historian, Thomas Fuller, tells the
+      story: "The vivacious vicar, living under King Henry VIII., Edward VI.,
+      Oueen Mary, and Oueen Elizabeth, was first a Papist, then a Protestant,
+      then a Papist, then a Protestant again. He had seen some martyrs burnt
+      (two miles off), at Windsor, and found this fire too hot for his tender
+      temper. The vicar being taxed by one for being a turncoat and inconstant
+      changeling. 'Not so,' said he, 'for I always kept my principle, which is
+      this&mdash;to live and to die the Vicar of Bray.'" The type is but too
+      true to human nature, and not only in matters ecclesiastical. But instead
+      of staying to moralise, we will notice with interest that in this church
+      is preserved an ancient copy of Fox's <i>Book of Martyrs</i>, chained to
+      the reading-desk, as in the days of Oueen Elizabeth. It is better to be
+      reminded of "the faith and patience of the saints," than of the light
+      conviction and easy apostacy of politic "believers;" and so the old church
+      at Bray has taught us a refreshing and unexpected lesson.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Soon the towers of Windsor are seen rising above the trees; then Eton
+      College comes into view, with its
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+          "distant spires, antique towers
+     That crown the watery glade."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0022" id="linkimage-0022"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0033m.jpg" alt="0033m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0033.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Perhaps the best view of the castle from the Thames is that from a point
+      just beyond the Great Western Railway bridge. When the queen is absent,
+      access is easy. St. George's Chapel, built by Edward IV., is the finest
+      existing specimen of the architecture of that period; and the view from
+      the North Terrace, constructed by Queen Elizabeth, is perhaps the most
+      beautiful on the River Thames.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little lower down, and we are passing between Runnimede ("Meadow of
+      Council"), where the barons camped, and Magna Charta Island, where the
+      great charter of English liberty was signed; and a temporary struggle
+      between king and nobles laid the broad foundations of English freedom.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0023" id="linkimage-0023"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9034.jpg" alt="9034 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9034.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      As we sweep round the bend beneath the broad meadow and the wooded isle,
+      "while we muse the fire burneth,"&mdash;the ardour of grateful love to Him
+      who has shaped the destinies of our beloved land, and has never from that
+      hour withdrawn the trust then committed to the nation, of being the
+      guardians and pioneers of the world's freedom. A multitude of thoughts and
+      questionings throng in upon us, but we must not lose the opportunity of
+      impressing on our memory the outward features of the scene. There is not
+      much to see: if there be time to land upon the island, it will be as well
+      to do so, and enter the pretty modern cottage there erected, containing
+      the very stone&mdash;if tradition is to be believed&mdash;on which the
+      Charter was laid for the royal signature.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Runnimede, it is but an easy climb to the brow of Cooper's Hill, with
+      its far-famed view of the river, of Windsor, and its woods. Dr. Johnson
+      speaks of Sir John Denham's poem, of which we have taken some lines as the
+      motto to this chapter, as "the first English specimen of local poetry."
+      Its subject, as well as its style, will preserve it from the oblivion to
+      which the greater number of the poet's works have descended.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another Coin falls into the river, to the left, a little farther on&mdash;suggestive,
+      in its name, of the Roman occupation; the "street" to the west here
+      crossing the Thames by a bridge. "London Stone," a few hundred yards lower
+      down, marks the entrance into Middlesex; then clean and quiet Staines&mdash;&mdash;"Stones,"
+      so termed, perhaps, from the piers of the old Roman bridge, or, it may be,
+      from the London Stone itself, comes into view: but if the traveller has
+      time to spare, he will rather pause at Laleham, so well known to every
+      Christian educator as the earliest scene of Arnold's labours.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0024" id="linkimage-0024"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0035m.jpg" alt="0035m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0035.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      "The first reception of the tidings of his election at Rugby," we are told
+      by his biographer, "was overclouded with deep sorrow at leaving the scene
+      of so much happiness. Years after he had left it, he still retained his
+      early affection for it, and till he had purchased his house in
+      Westmoreland, he entertained a lingering hope that he might return to it
+      in his old age, when he should have retired from Rugby. Often he would
+      revisit it, and delighted in renewing his acquaintance with all the
+      families of the poor whom he had known during his residence; in showing to
+      his children his former haunts; in looking once again on his favourite
+      views of the great plain of Middlesex&mdash;the lonely walks along the
+      quiet banks of the Thames&mdash;the retired garden with its 'Campus
+      Martins,' and its 'wilderness of trees;' which lay behind the house, and
+      which had been the scenes of so many sportive games and serious
+      conversations." *
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0025" id="linkimage-0025"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9036.jpg" alt="9036 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9036.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Chertsey, on the other side of the river, is next passed, the leisurely
+      traveller having the opportunity, if he so please, of visiting the house
+      of Cowley the poet, or of climbing to St. Anne's Hill, once the residence
+      of the statesman Charles James Fox.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Then, still on the right, the mouth of the Wey is seen, the pretty town of
+      Wey-bridge not being far off. Towns and villages now multiply: the villas
+      of city men begin to dot the banks, and the suburban railway station
+      appears, with its hurrying morning and evening crowds. The chronicle of
+      names now would be like the monotonous cry of the railway porter:
+      "Shepperton; Walton; Sunbury; Hampton." But as yet we need not join with
+      the throng. The "silent highway"&mdash;as the river has been called&mdash;is
+      also a retreat. Still we can leisurely survey the charm, which, so long as
+      the sky, the water, and the trees remain, no builder can efface, although
+      he may try his best, or worst.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A bend in the river between Shepperton and Walton is of historic interest,
+      as there Julius Cæsar with his legions forced the passage of the Thames,
+      and routed the British General Cassivelaunus. "Cæsar led his army to the
+      territories of Cassivelaunus, to the river Thames, which river can be
+      crossed on foot in one place only, and that with difficulty. On arriving,
+      he perceived that great forces of the enemy were drawn up on the opposite
+      bank, which was moreover fortified by sharp stakes set along the margin, a
+      similar stockade being fixed in the bed of the river, and covered by the
+      stream. Having ascertained these facts from prisoners and deserters, Cæsar
+      sent the cavalry in front, and ordered the legions to follow immediately.
+      The soldiers advanced with such rapidity and impetuosity, although up to
+      their necks in the water, that the enemy could not withstand the onset,
+      but quitted the banks and betook themselves to flight." * The name Cowey,
+      or Coway Stakes, to this day commemorates the event.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Stanley's <i>Life</i> vol. i. p. 37. One of Arnold's Laleham
+     pupils, afterwards his colleague at Rugby, writes: "The most
+     remarkable thing which struck me at once in joining the
+     Laleham circle, was the wonderful healthiness of tone and
+     feeling which prevailed in it. Everything about me I
+     immediately felt to be most real; it was a place where a
+     new-comer at once felt that a great and earnest work was
+     going forward. Dr. Arnold's great power as a private tutor
+     resided in this, that he gave such an intense earnestness to
+     life. Every pupil was made to feel that there was a work for
+     him to do&mdash;that his happiness as well as his duty lay in
+     doing that work well. Hence, an indescribable zest was
+     communicated to a young man's feeling about life; a strange
+     joy came over him on discovering that he had the means of
+     being useful, and thus of being happy; and a deep respect
+     and ardent attachment sprang up towards him who had taught
+     him thus to value life and his own self, and his work and
+     mission in this world." September 23, 1872.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0026" id="linkimage-0026"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0038m.jpg" alt="0038m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0038.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Who calls the council, states the certain day.
+     Who forms the phalanx, and who points the way."&mdash;<i>Pope</i>
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0027" id="linkimage-0027"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0039m.jpg" alt="0039m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0039.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Two or three miles farther, and just past Hampton village, on the left
+      bank, the traveller will notice a little rotunda with a Grecian portico
+      with a mansion of some pretensions in the wooded back-ground. The house
+      was Garrick's residence, and in the rotunda there originally stood
+      Roubiliac's famous statue of Shakspere, now in the British Museum. Bushey
+      Park and Hampton Court next tempt us to the shore. Great names of history
+      again rise to memory&mdash;Wolsey, Cromwell, Williams. But the charm of
+      Hampton Court is, that its palace and gardens are free of access to the
+      people; a privilege which, all the summer through, is appreciated by
+      eager, happy throngs. But let us cross the river to the comparative
+      solitude of the two Dittons&mdash;"Thames," and "Long." An <i>impromptu</i>
+      of poor Theodore Hook, lively and graceful, according to his wont, has led
+      many a tourist in search of a holiday to this pretty neighbourhood, and
+      the poet's memory is reverenced in the village accordingly. Here are the
+      first and last verses:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+  "When sultry suns and dusty streets proclaim town's 'winter season,'
+  And rural scenes and cool retreats sound something like high treason&mdash;
+  I steal away to shades serene which yet no bard has hit on,
+  And change the bustling, heartless scene for quietude and Ditlon.
+  Here, in a placid waking dream, I'm free from worldly troubles,
+  Calm as the rippling silver stream that in the sunshine bubbles;
+  And when sweet Eden's blissful bowers, some abler bard has writ on.
+  Despairing to transcend his powers, I'll-ditto-say for Ditton."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Then comes trim Surbiton with its villas, and Kingston&mdash;once, as its
+      name imports, a town of kings. Por here were crowned several Saxon
+      monarchs; is there not the coronation-stone in the market-place, engraven
+      with their names? Teddington Lock, a little lower down, is the last upon
+      the Thames; and here too the anglers of the river put forth their chief
+      and almost their final strength. The mile from Teddington to Eel-pie
+      Island off Twickenham will be a quiet one indeed, if the voyager interfere
+      not with the sport of one or other of these gentry, and draw down their
+      resentment accordingly. Strawberry Hill reminds us of Horace Walpole,
+      literary idleness, sham Gothic, and <i>bric-à-brac</i>. We glance and pass
+      on. Pope's Villa no longer exists; only a relic of his famous grotto
+      remains; but a monument to the poet is in Twickenham Church, with an
+      inscription by Warburton, setting forth that Pope "would not be buried in
+      Westminster Abbey."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Past wood-fringed meadows on either hand, the "Broadwater," now rightly
+      named&mdash;sweeps on to Richmond, where we must ascend the far-famed
+      hill, to gaze once more upon the finest river-view in Europe. A little
+      farther down, on autumn days, off lsleworth, may be descried flights of
+      swallows, preparing for their outward journey. "They arrive," writes the
+      artist who has depicted the scene, "in a mass, at the same hour, without
+      confusion, as it were in regiments, and in some of their oblique
+      evolutions resemble a drift of black snow. At dusk they all sink down into
+      the island or 'ait' opposite the church of Isleworth, where a large bed of
+      osiers affords them in its slender wands a settling-place for the night."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0028" id="linkimage-0028"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0041m.jpg" alt="0041m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0041.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      From this point, all Londoners know their river. The beauty of nature is
+      no longer present, but a new sentiment of wonder and interest takes
+      possession of us. We feel the stir and hear the roar of the great Babel.
+      What were once quiet suburban villages are now but a part of the
+      metropolis. Still, however, they retain something of the quaint
+      picturesqueness of the last century. In many a nook and corner we come
+      upon solid comfortable houses of red brick, where our great-grandmothers,
+      over a "dish of tea," may have discussed the "poems of a person of
+      quality," or "the writings of the ingenious Mr. Addison."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0029" id="linkimage-0029"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8043.jpg" alt="8043 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8043.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      These relics of the last century are rapidly disappearing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Cheyne Walk at Chelsea, which now forms so striking an object from the
+      river, can hardly hold out much longer against the march of modern
+      improvement, and will probably ere long share the fate of the Lord Mayor's
+      barge, and disappear from view.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The noble embankments which now skirt so large a portion of the London
+      river, and the bridges old and new, afford every facility for the full
+      study of the Thames in all its aspects. Yet those who only cross with the
+      hurrying crowd miss half the picturesqueness of what many who have
+      travelled far feel to be among the most picturesque city views in Europe.
+      Wordsworth's sonnet, beginning&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Earth has not anything to show more fair,"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      was written on Westminster Bridge! But then it was on an early summer
+      morning, when the "mighty heart" of the city was "lying still," and the
+      "very houses seemed asleep." The blue sky, unobscured by smoke, hung in
+      the freshness of the dawn over the dwellings of men and the
+      heaven-pointing spires. The night airs had swept away every city taint,
+      and the atmosphere was pure as among the mountains or by the sea. The
+      experiment is worth making still at the cost of an hour or two's earlier
+      rising, to prove how exhilarating, fresh, and delightful the London air
+      may be.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Or perhaps the charm of the scene may be more deeply felt amid the mystery
+      of night, when the clouds have dispersed, and but for some rare footfalls
+      there is silence, and the countless lights stretch in long lines,
+      reflected by the gently rippling waters, while even the bright glare of
+      the railway lamps aloft only add colour and splendour to the gleaming
+      array, and the steadfast stars hang overhead. By night or in early
+      morning, perhaps through force of contrast, the full beauty of these
+      London river scenes are felt. Or, to vary the impression, we may take
+      boat, as did our fathers, from bridge to bridge, "from Westminster to
+      Rotherhithe," or farther down the broadening stream, with the wealth of
+      the world, as it almost seems, ranged on either hand in the close-crowded
+      vessels or the stupendous warehouses. Every such excursion is a new
+      revelation, even to minds accustomed to the scene, of what is meant by
+      English commerce, and of the ties which connect us with all mankind. Yet
+      there is much to remind us that the universal reign of peace has not as
+      yet set in. Grim preparations for defence and war bespeak a nation
+      prepared, if needs be, for strife. And as at length we reach Tilbury Fort,
+      and glow under the influence of the invigorating sea-breeze, great
+      memories rush in upon us of armaments once gathered here; to lead, as it
+      seemed, the forlorn hope;&mdash;to attain, as by God's great mercy it
+      proved, the triumphant victory, of British Protestantism and liberty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      When King James I. threatened the recalcitrant corporation of London with
+      the removal of the court to Oxford, the Lord Mayor, with scarcely veiled
+      sarcasm, replied, "May it please your Majesty, of your grace, not to take
+      away the Thames too!" If the Upper Thames awakens our admiration by its
+      loveliness, the Lower Thames inspires us with wonder and almost awe at the
+      boundless wealth and world-wide commerce which it bears upon its ample
+      bosom. Other rivers may vie with it in beauty. In far-reaching influence
+      it stands alone. As we sail through its forest of masts, or follow its
+      course down to the sea, we feel that we are surrounded by influences which
+      stretch to the very ends of the earth. The stream whose course we have
+      traced from the tiny rivulet in Trewsbury Mead has become the channel of
+      communications which, for good or evil, are affecting every nation under
+      heaven. May He who has endowed us with such wealth and power lead us to
+      hold them both under a deep sense of responsibility to Him who gave them!&mdash;"Then
+      shall our peace flow like a river, and our righteousness as the waves of
+      the sea."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      SOUTH-EASTERN RAMBLES
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0030" id="linkimage-0030"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0046m.jpg" alt="0046m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0046.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">H</span>E is a benefactor
+      to his species who makes two blades of corn grow where only one grew
+      before." The substantial truth of the aphorism none will question; vet it
+      would be a doubtful benefit if all our waste lands were reclaimed and
+      brought under the plough. Enclosure Acts, by extending the area of our
+      productive soil, have increased the resources of the country and the food
+      of the people. But the total absorption into cultivated farms of heath,
+      forest, and woodland would be to purchase the utilitarian advantage at too
+      high a price.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The open commons of Surrey and the rolling downs of Sussex are, in their
+      way, of a beauty unsurpassed. Both are chiefly due to the great chalk
+      formation, which comes down in a south-westerly direction from the eastern
+      counties, breaks into the Chiltern Hills, extends over the greater part of
+      Wiltshire, Dorsetshire, and Hampshire; and in the east of the last-named
+      county becomes separated into two branches; one, the "North Downs,"
+      running almost due east to the North Foreland and Shakespere's Cliff; the
+      other, the "South Downs," pursuing a south-easterly direction to Beachy
+      Head. In their long and undulating course, they form innumerable
+      combinations of picturesque beauty. Places elsewhere, well known and
+      deservedly famous, are rivalled in loveliness by many a sequestered scene
+      in the line of the lower chalk country, of which few but the
+      thinly-scattered inhabitants, and now and then an unconventional tourist,
+      have ever heard.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0031" id="linkimage-0031"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0048m.jpg" alt="0048m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0048.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The charm of these lines of rolling upland is much enhanced by the great
+      rough plain which they inclose&mdash;"the Weald" (i.e. Forest), as it is
+      termed&mdash;extending in an irregular triangle from the point where the
+      Downs diverge to the British Channel. Geologists have framed many theories
+      as to the formation of the Weald. It belongs to the Oolite formation below
+      the chalk; it is the uppermost member of that formation, and was a deposit
+      of sands and clays in a tropical climate, as is abundantly evident from
+      animal and vegetable remains found there. These prove the existence of
+      islands, banks and forests, forming the shores of a vast estuary, the
+      embouchure of some great river from the west. At one time, the deep chalk
+      deposit extended all over it; but this was disturbed by a line of
+      elevation running along its east and west axis, the superincumbent chalk
+      being broken up and washed away; hence the cliff-like aspect of the Downs
+      in many places, where they descend precipitously to the sandy and gravelly
+      edge of the valley, as to a beach. The remains of the huge land lizards
+      and iguanodons of the Weald, collected by the late Dr. Mantell, form one
+      of the most conspicuous exhibitions of fossil bones in the British Museum.
+      The pretty little fossil ferns, Lonchopteris and Sphenopteris, found
+      nature-printed on the sandstones, are, on the other hand, the very
+      counterparts, in size and delicacy, of their present successors.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In early times, as every local historian tells, the Weald was a chief seat
+      of the iron manufacture in Great Britain. The ironstone found here was
+      certainly wrought by the Romans and Saxons, if not by the ancient Britons;
+      and down to the seventeenth century the trade was prosperous. Many an old
+      manor-house, to the present day, attests this former prosperity, while its
+      memories linger also in such local names as Furnace Place, Cinder Hill,
+      and Hammer Ponds. The balustrades round St. Paul's Cathedral are a relic
+      of the Sussex ironworks. Want of fuel, and the more abundant and rich
+      ironstone of the Coal-measures, caused the decay of the industry, after
+      whole forests had been destroyed to feed the furnaces. The old-fashioned
+      cottages, here and there remaining, speak of days of former prosperity
+      among the working-classes; nor are they even yet devoid of comfort,
+      although the transition has been great&mdash;ironworkers then,
+      chicken-fatteners now!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ridge that runs through the centre of the Weald is called the Forest
+      Ridge and Ashdown. It is here that the chief beauties of the district are
+      concentrated, while the whole plain lies open to view from the heights.
+      Starting from East Grinstead, near to which is the source of the Medway, a
+      walk of extraordinary interest and sylvan beauty leads by Forest Row and
+      the ruins of Brambletye House up to High Beeches; from which spot a
+      pleasant excursion may be made to Horsted Keynes, where the gentle and
+      saintly Archbishop Leighton lies buried. His grave is in the chancel; his
+      tomb outside the church. Thence, bearing to the east, the traveller may
+      work his way to Crowborough Beacon, near the road from Tunbridge Wells to
+      Lewes, where, with a foreground of moss and fern, dotted here and there by
+      fir trees, he may look over the whole rolling surface of the Weald, rich
+      with the flowers of spring, the blossoms of summer, or the golden fruitage
+      and yellow corn of the autumn; while the purple downs on either hand close
+      in the prospect, with just one gleam, beyond Beachy Head, of the distant
+      sea. Then, if desirous of prolonging his ramble to other points of view,
+      he may cross the hills to Heathfield, resting on the way at Mayfield, an
+      old-world Wealden town, once a residence of archbishops, and the
+      traditional scene of the renowned combat between Dunstan and the Devil.
+      Here the traveller may find a temporary resting-place in some rustic
+      hostelry, where, if luxuries are not obtainable, the eggs and bacon are
+      wholesome and abundant; the sheets are fragrant with lavender, and though
+      perhaps a little wondered at by the rustic children, he will have a
+      home-like welcome.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0032" id="linkimage-0032"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0050m.jpg" alt="0050m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0050.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Again we leave the beaten track, and push on through the vale of
+      Heathfield to the south; for a walk of seven or eight miles will bring us
+      to Hurstmonceux, inseparably connected with the name and work of
+      Archdeacon Hare, the philosophic theologian and devout Christian, whose
+      books on the Victory of Faith and the Mission of the Comforter have done
+      so much to elevate the religious thought of the age; and who, by his <i>Vindication
+      of Luther</i>, has made it impossible for any man of competent knowledge
+      and fair judgment to repeat old calumnies against the great Reformer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0033" id="linkimage-0033"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0051m.jpg" alt="0051m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0051.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      We visit the castle&mdash;one of the finest remains of the later feudalism&mdash;fortress
+      and mansion in one. "Persons who have visited Rome," writes Archdeacon
+      Hare, "on entering the Castle-court, and seeing the piles of brickwork
+      strewn about, have been reminded of the Baths of Caracalla, though of
+      course on a miniature scale; the illusion being perhaps fostered by the
+      deep blue of the Sussex sky, which, when compared with that in more
+      northerly parts of England, has almost an Italian character." After
+      exploring the great ruddy-tinted ruins, we may ascend to the church,
+      taking a glance at the rectory, the home of so much piety and genius,
+      seeing once again in thought the archdeacon's friend and curate, poor John
+      Sterling, as described by Hare, with his tall form rapidly advancing
+      across the lawn to the study window; or more pensively may pass to the
+      churchyard, where so many members of the parted family band sleep as "one
+      in Christ."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before turning northwards, let us make our way to Beachy Mead, grandest of
+      the English chalk headlands in the south; or, resting for a while at
+      Eastbourne, that bright modern watering-place, between the sea and the
+      hills, with the quaint Sussex village in the background, we may prepare
+      for a long, health-giving, inspiring ramble over the South Downs, "that
+      chain of majestic mountains," as White of Selborne calls them&mdash;for
+      the most part bare treeless hills, sweeping in many a grand curve, broken
+      by shadowed "coombes," or wooded flowery "deans." On the way to Lewes,
+      Firle Beacon, one of the highest points of the Downs, may be ascended,
+      after which the traveller may take the rail to Brighton and Shoreham, and
+      strike up hill again into what is perhaps the finest part of the range,
+      where, from Chanctonbury Ring, he will be able to command at one view all
+      its most characteristic features. The height itself is conspicuous far and
+      wide, from its dark crown of fir trees. Probably the "Ring" denotes here
+      the ancient entrenchment, British or Roman, which is circular, or it may
+      be a reminiscence of the time when fairies were believed in; "fairy rings"
+      being a common feature of the Downs; caused really by the growth of
+      mushrooms, the grass, by the decay of the latter, becoming of a deeper
+      green.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0034" id="linkimage-0034"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0053m.jpg" alt="0053m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0053.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Steyning is the nearest station to Chanctonbury, and we would advise the
+      tourist to take train there for the North Downs, or better still, to
+      proceed in the opposite direction to Arundel, famous for its picturesque
+      castle and park, with its fair historic pastures: but in either case the
+      Weald will be crossed via Horsham. About half way between Arundel and
+      Horsham, many a traveller will be disposed to turn off to the little
+      Sussex town of Midhurst, on the edge of the Weald, where Richard Cobden
+      was born, and where the old "Schola Grammaticalis," the most prominent
+      building in the town, has the twin honour of the great Free Trader's early
+      education, as well as that of Sir Charles Lyell, the geologist. Between
+      this town and Dorking, whither the traveller is bound, he may see to his
+      left the wooded slopes and imposing tower-crowned summit of Leith Hill,
+      the loftiest elevation in southeastern England. If he can leave the rail,
+      say at the little roadside station of Capel, and climb the hill from the
+      south-east by Ockley and Tanhurst, he will not only be richly rewarded,
+      but may perhaps express his astonishment that such views and such a walk
+      should be found within a short afternoon's journey of London. From the
+      summit of Leith Hill, it is said that ten counties are visible; not only
+      Kent, Sussex, and Surrey, but Hampshire, Berkshire, Oxfordshire,
+      Buckinghamshire, Middlesex. Hertfordshire, and Essex. The eye ranges, in
+      short, from a height of just less than 1000 feet over a circumference of
+      200 miles of fair and various landscape; valley and upland; broad meadows
+      and wooded slopes, with many an open ridge against the sky. Only the charm
+      of river or lake is wanting; but we are in no mood to be critical.
+      Downwards, the walk is full of interest, through wooded lanes to
+      Anstiebury, where there is a fine Roman encampment, and on to romantic
+      Holmwood, with its pine woods and breezy common; past Deepdene, the
+      wonderfully beautiful seat of the Hope family, and so to Dorking, where
+      the wearied pedestrian will find a pleasant rest, with nothing to excite
+      him, save the remembrances of his little excursion.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0035" id="linkimage-0035"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0055m.jpg" alt="0055m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0055.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      If he were not well prepared for its exceeding loveliness beforehand, it
+      must have been to him a surprise as well as a delight. Comparisons are
+      proverbially distasteful, but we can understand, if we can not wholly
+      endorse, the rapturous verdict of John Dennis, who gives it as his opinion
+      that the prospect from Leith Hill "surpasses at once in rural charm, pomp,
+      and magnificence" the view of the Val d'Arno from the Apennines, or of the
+      Campagna from Tivoli.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0036" id="linkimage-0036"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0056m.jpg" alt="0056m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0056.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      We are now fairly in the Surrey Hills, and may put what some will think
+      the very crown to these south-eastern excursions by a walk from Dorking to
+      Farnham. Ascending by one of many lanes, shadowed (at the time of our
+      visit) by hedges bright with hawthorn berries, and stately trees just
+      touched with the russet and gold of early autumn, we are soon upon an
+      upland stretch of heath and forest, still remaining in all the wildness of
+      nature. Sometimes the path leads us between venerable trees&mdash;oak and
+      beech and yew, whose branches form an impenetrable roof overhead, then
+      traverses a sweep of bare hill, bright with gorse and heather, then
+      plunges into some fairy dell, carpeted with softest moss. Many of the
+      "stately homes of England," with their embowering trees upon the lower
+      slopes, add a charm to the scene by their reminiscences as well as by
+      their beauty. To the left is Wotton; made famous by the name and genius of
+      John Evelyn, author of <i>Sylva</i> and the <i>Diary</i>&mdash;the
+      scholar, gentleman, and Christian&mdash;pure-minded in an age of
+      corruption, and the admiration of dissolute courtiers, who could respect
+      what they would not imitate. It is to him that Cowley says:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Happy art thou, whom God does bless
+     With the full choice of thine own happiness;
+     And happier yet, because thou'rt blest
+     With wisdom how to choose the best."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      That the choice was made, for life and death, appears by the inscription
+      which Evelyn directed to be placed on his tombstone at Wotton. "That
+      living in an age of extraordinary events and revolution, he had learned
+      from thence this truth, which he desired might be thus communicated to
+      posterity: that all is vanity which is not honest, and that there is no
+      solid wisdom but real piety."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Two or three miles further Albury is reached, with its lovely gardens
+      designed by Evelyn. The curious traveller may here inspect the sumptuous
+      church erected by the late Mr. Drummond, the owner of Albury, for the
+      followers of Edward Irving. The worth of Mr. Drummond's character, with
+      the shrewd sense and caustic wit by which he was wont to enliven the
+      debates of the House of Commons, laid a deeper hold upon his
+      contemporaries than his theological peculiarities; and the special views
+      of which this temple is the costly memorial have proved of insufficient
+      power to sway the minds and hearts of men. Still ascending, we reach again
+      the summit of steep downs, and advancing by noble yew-trees gain at
+      Newland's Corner another magnificent view. The hill of the "Holy Martyrs'"
+      Chapel, now corrupted to "Saint Martha's," may next be climbed, and a
+      short rest at the fine old town of Guildford will be welcome. The castle,
+      the churches with their monuments, and Archbishop Abbot's Hospital, are
+      all worthy of a visit; but, unless we have a day to spare, we must be
+      content with but a hurried glance, for we have still the "Hog's Back" to
+      traverse, a ten miles' walk to Farnham.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Climbing from the station at Guildford through pleasant lanes, the
+      traveller emerges upon a narrow chalk-ridge, half-a-mile wide, and nearly
+      level, which etymologists tell us was called by the Anglo-Saxons <i>Hoga</i>,
+      a hill, whence the ridge received its name. Possibly, however, a simpler
+      derivation, as the more obvious, is also the more correct. The long upland
+      unbroken line might not unaptly have been compared with one of those long,
+      lean, narrow-backed swine with which early English illuminations make us
+      familiar; and the homeliness of the name would quite accord with the habit
+      of early topographers. The walk is interesting, but, after the varied
+      beauties of the way from Dorking to Guildford, may appear at first
+      slightly monotonous. On either side the fair, fertile champaign of Surrey
+      stretches to the horizon, broken here and there by low wood-crowned hills,
+      and at one point especially, between Puttenham on the left, and Wanborough
+      on the right, the combinations of view are very striking. Puttenham
+      church-tower, and the manor-house, formerly the Priory, peep out from
+      amongst the foliage of some grand old trees. A few cottages and farmhouses
+      lie scattered about picturesquely, forming the very ideal of an old
+      English village; while pine-covered Crooksbury Hill, with the Devil's
+      Jumps and Hindhead in the farther distance, make a striking background to
+      the view. "Wan" is evidently "Woden," and here there was no doubt a shrine
+      of the ancient Saxon deity.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We must not omit in passing to drink of the Wanborough spring, among the
+      freshest and purest in England; never known, it is said, to freeze.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Pursuing our journey, we presently look down upon Moor Park and Waverley,
+      which we may either visit now, descending by the little, village of Seale,
+      or reserve for an excursion from Farnham. Waverley contains the
+      picturesque remains of an old Cistercian Abbey, built as the Cistercians
+      always did build, in a charming valley, embosomed in hills, irrigated by a
+      clear running stream, abounding in fish, and with current enough to turn
+      the mill of the monastery. The annals of this great establishment,
+      extending over two hundred and thirty years, were published towards the
+      close of the seventeenth century; and Sir Walter Scott took from them the
+      name now so familiar wherever the English language is spoken.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Divided from Waverley by a winding lane, whose high banks and profuse
+      undergrowth remind us of Devonshire, lies Moor Park. Hither Sir William
+      Temple retired from the toils of State, to occupy his leisure by
+      gardening, planting, and in writing memoirs. A trim garden, with
+      stiff-clipped hedges, and watered by a straight canal which runs through
+      it, is doubtless a reminiscence of Temple's residence as our ambassador at
+      the Hague. "But," says Lord Macaulay, "there were other inmates of Moor
+      Park to whom a higher interest belongs. An eccentric, uncouth,
+      disagreeable young Irishman, who had narrowly escaped plucking at Dublin,
+      attended Sir William as an amanuensis for board and twenty pounds a year;
+      dined at the second table, wrote bad verses in praise of his employer, and
+      made love to a very pretty dark-eyed young girl, who waited on Lady
+      Giffard. Little did Temple imagine that the coarse exterior of his
+      dependant concealed a genius equally suited to politics and to letters, a
+      genius destined to shake great kingdoms, to stir the laughter and the rage
+      of millions, and to leave to posterity memorials which can only perish
+      with the English language. Little did he think that the flirtation in his
+      servants' hall, which he, perhaps, scarcely deigned to make the subject of
+      a jest, was the beginning of a long, unprosperous love, which was to be as
+      widely famed as the passion of Petrarch or Abelard. Sir William's
+      secretary was Jonathan Swift. Lady Giffard's waiting-maid was poor
+      Stella."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Just outside the lodge gate, at the end of the park furthest from the
+      mansion, is a small house covered with roses and evergreens. It is known
+      to the peasantry as Dame Swift's cottage. Our rustic guide pointed it out
+      by this name, but who Dame Swift was he did not know. He had never heard
+      of Stella and her sad history. An object of far greater interest to him
+      was a large fox-earth, a couple of hundred yards away, in which some years
+      ago "a miser" had lived and died. A whole crop of legends have already
+      sprung up about the mysterious inmate of the cave. He was a nobleman, so
+      said our informant, who had been crossed in love: he had made a vow that
+      no human being should see his face, and accordingly never came out till
+      after nightfall, even then being closely wrapped up in his cloak. After
+      his death a party of ladies and gentlemen came down from London in a
+      post-chaise and four; and having buried the body carried away "a cartload
+      of golden guineas and fine dresses, which he had hid in the cave."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0037" id="linkimage-0037"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0059m.jpg" alt="0059m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0059.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The picturesqueness of the approach to Farnham, whether over the last
+      ridge of the Hog's Back, or through the lanes from Seale, Moor Park, and
+      Waverley, is much enhanced by the hop-gardens, which occupy about a
+      thousand acres in the neighbourhood. For excellence the Farnham hops are
+      considered to bear the palm, although the chief field of this peculiar
+      branch of cultivation is in Kent. No south-eastern rambles, especially in
+      the early autumn, would be complete without a visit to the gardens where
+      the hop-picking is in full operation. It is the great holiday for
+      thousands of the humbler class of Londoners, as well as the chosen resort
+      of thousands of the "finest pisantry" from the Emerald Isle.
+      Costermongers, watermen, sempstresses, factory girls, labourers of all
+      descriptions, young and old, bear a hand at the work. The air is
+      invigorating, the task to the industrious is easy, and the pay is not bad.
+      The hop-pickers, who are in such numbers that they cannot obtain even
+      humble lodgings in the villages, sleep in barns, sheds, stables, and
+      booths, or even under the hedges in the lanes. A rough kind of order is
+      maintained among themselves; although outbreaks of violence and debauchery
+      sometimes happen. On the whole the work is not unhealthy, and the
+      opportunity of engaging in it is as real a boon to the hop-pickers as the
+      journey to Scarborough or Biarritz to those of another class. Besides
+      which, the great gathering of people gives opportunities of which
+      Christian activity avails itself; and the evening visit to the encampment,
+      the homely address, the quiet talk, and the well-chosen tract, have been
+      instrumental of lasting good to those whom religious agencies elsewhere
+      had failed to reach.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0038" id="linkimage-0038"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0060m.jpg" alt="0060m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0060.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Farnham has special associations with both the Church and the Army; and
+      the impartial visitor will no doubt take an opportunity of seeing the
+      stately moated castle, the abode of the Bishops of Winchester, and of
+      visiting the neighbouring camp of Aldershot. The politician will recal the
+      name of William Cobbett, who was born in this neighbourhood, and in his
+      own direct and homely style, often dwells on his boyish recollections of
+      its charms. Some will not forget another name associated with this little
+      Surrey town. One among the sweetest singers of our modern Israel, Augustus
+      Toplady, was born at Farnham. He died at the age of thirty-eight, but he
+      lived long enough to write "Rock of Ages, cleft for me and none need covet
+      a nobler earthly immortality."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0039" id="linkimage-0039"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0062m.jpg" alt="0062m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0062.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      OUR FOREST AND WOODLANDS
+    </h2>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">W</span>HEN Britain was
+      first brought by Roman ambition within the knowledge of Southern Europe,
+      the interior of our Island was one vast forest. Cæsar and Strabo agree in
+      describing its towns as being nothing more than spaces cleared of trees&mdash;"royds,"
+      or "thwaites" in North of England phrase&mdash;where a few huts were
+      placed and defended by ditch or rampart. Somersetshire and the adjacent
+      counties were covered by the Coit Mawr, or Great Wood. Asser tells us that
+      Berkshire was so called from the Wood of Berroc, where the box-tree grew
+      most abundantly. Buckinghamshire was so called from the great forests of
+      beech (boc), of which the remnants still survive. The Cotswold Hills, and
+      the Wolds of Yorkshire, are shown by their names to have been once
+      far-spreading woodlands; and the same may be said of the Weald of Sussex,
+      the subject, in part, of the preceding chapter. "In the district of the
+      Weald," writes the Rev. Isaac Taylor, "almost every local name, for miles
+      and miles, terminates in <i>hurst, ley, den, or field</i>. The <i>hursts</i>
+      were the dense portions of the forests; the <i>leys</i> are the open
+      forest-glades where the cattle love to lie; the dens are the deep wooded
+      valleys, and the <i>fields</i> were little patches of 'felled' or cleared
+      land in the midst of the surrounding forest. From Petersfield and
+      Midhurst, by Billinghurst, Cuckfield, Wadhurst, and Lamberhurst, as far as
+      Hawkshurst and Tenterden, these names stretch in an uninterrupted string."
+      And, again, "A line of names ending in <i>den</i> testifies to the
+      existence of the forest tract in Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire, and
+      Huntingdon, which formed the western boundary of the East Saxon and East
+      Anglican Kingdoms. Henley in Arden and Hampton in Arden are vestiges of
+      the great Warwickshire forest of Arden, which stretched from the Forest of
+      Dean to Sherwood Forest." * Hampshire was already a forest in the time of
+      William the Conqueror: all he did was to sweep away the towns and villages
+      which had sprung up within its precincts. Epping and Hainault are but
+      fragments of the ancient forest of Essex, which extended as far as
+      Colchester. Lancashire, Cheshire, Yorkshire, and the other northern
+      counties, were the haunts of the wolf, the wild boar, and the red deer,
+      which roamed at will over moorland and forest, and have given their names
+      here and there to a bold upland or sequestered nook.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Even down to the time of Oueen Elizabeth immense tracts of primeval forest
+      remained unreclaimed. Sir Henry Spelman ** gives the following list of
+      those which were still in existence.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Words and Places, pp. 381-3.
+
+     ** Quoted in <i>English Forests and Forest Trees.</i>
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0040" id="linkimage-0040"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0064m.jpg" alt="0064m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0064.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0041" id="linkimage-0041"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0065m.jpg" alt="0065m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0065.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      This list is evidently far from complete. It may, however, serve to show
+      the extent of unreclaimed land in England so recently as the sixteenth
+      century. And here, it should be noted, that though, as a matter of fact,
+      forest lands are generally woodlands also, this is not essential to the
+      meaning of the word. A "forest," says Mr. Hensleigh Wedgwood, * "is
+      properly a wilderness, or uncultivated tract of country; but, as such were
+      commonly overgrown with trees, the word took the meaning of a large wood.
+      We have many forests in England without a stick of timber upon them." It
+      is especially so in Scotland, as many a traveller who has ridden all the
+      long day by the treeless "Forest of Breadalbane" will well remember.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * <i>Dictionary of English Etymology.</i>
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The question has been recently much discussed whether our forests ought to
+      be retained in their present extent. Economists have shown by calculation
+      that forests do not pay. It is said that they encourage idleness and
+      poaching, and thus lead to crime. Estimates have been made of the amount
+      of corn which might be raised if the soil were brought under the plough.
+      Yet few persons who have wandered through the glades of our glorious
+      woodlands would be willing to part with them. Admit that the cost of
+      maintenance is in excess of their return to the national exchequer; yet
+      England is rich enough to bear the loss; and it is a poor economy which
+      reduces everything to a pecuniary estimate. "Man shall not live by bread
+      alone." In God's world beauty has its place as well as utility. "Consider
+      the lilies."
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "God might have made enough&mdash;enough
+     For every want of ours,
+     For temperance, medicine, and use,
+     And yet have made no flowers."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      "He hath made everything beautiful in his time;" and means that we should
+      rejoice in His works as well as feed upon His bounty and learn from His
+      wisdom. While by no means insensible to the charm of a richly cultivated
+      district, where "the pastures are clothed with flocks, the valleys also
+      are covered over with corn," yet let us trust that the day is far distant
+      when our few remaining forests shall have disappeared before modern
+      improvements and scientific husbandry.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To the lover of nature, forest scenery is beautiful at all seasons. How
+      pleasant is it, in the hot summer noon, to lie beneath the "leafy screen,"
+      through which the sunlight flickers like golden rain; to watch the
+      multitudenous life around us&mdash;the squirrel flashing from bough to
+      bough, the rabbit darting past with quick, jerky movements, the birds
+      flitting hither and thither in busy idleness, the columns of insects in
+      ceaseless, aimless gliding motion&mdash;and to listen to the mysterious
+      undertone of sound which pervades rather than disturbs the silence!
+      Beautiful, too, are the woods when autumn has touched their greenery with
+      its own variety of hue. From the old Speech House of the Forest of Dean we
+      have looked out as on a billowy, far extending sea of glory&mdash;elm,
+      oak, beech, ash, maple, all with their own peculiar tints, yet blending
+      into one harmonious chord of colour in the light of the westering sun;
+      whilst from among them the holly and the yew stood out like green islands
+      set in an ocean of gold.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little later in the year, and we tread among the rustling leaves, whilst
+      over us interlaces in intricate tracery a network of branches, twigs, and
+      sprays:&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "The ruined choirs where late the sweet birds sang."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Return a few weeks afterwards, and surely it will be felt that forest
+      scenery is never more fairy-like than when the bare boughs are feathered
+      with snowflakes, or sparkle with icicles, that flash like diamonds in the
+      wintry sunlight, or faintly tinkle overhead as they sway to and fro in the
+      icy breeze. Never is the forest more solemn than when, with a sound like
+      thunder or the raging sea, the wind tosses the giant branches in wild
+      commotion. We cannot wonder that Schiller delighted to wander alone in the
+      stormy midnight through the woods, listening to the tempest which raged
+      aloft, or that much of his grandest poetry was composed amid scenes like
+      these.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nor must we forget the aspect of the woods in early spring, when Nature is
+      just awaking from her winter's sleep. It needs a quick eye to trace the
+      delicate shades of colour which then succeed each other&mdash;the dull
+      brown first brightening into a reddish hue, as the glossy leaf-cases begin
+      to expand, then a faint hint of tender green as the pale leaves burst from
+      their enclosure one after another, tinging with colour the skeleton
+      branches which they are soon to clothe with their beautiful mantle.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Mysterious round! What skill, what force divine,
+     Deep felt, in these appear! A simple train,
+     Yet so delightful, mixed with such kind art,
+     Such beauty and beneficence combined,
+     Shade unperceived so softening into shade.
+     And all so forming an harmonious whole,
+     That, as they still succeed, they ravish still."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The New Forest claims precedence over all others, from its extent, its
+      picturesque beauty, and its historical associations. Though greatly
+      encroached upon since the time that the Conqueror "loved its red deer as
+      if he were their father," and the Red King fell beneath the arrow of Sir
+      Walter Tyrrell, it still contains long stretches of wild moorland, and
+      mighty oaks which may have been venerable in the days of the Plantagenets.
+      The red deer have entirely disappeared. About a hundred fallow-deer yet
+      remain. They are very shy, hiding themselves in the least visited recesses
+      of the Forest, and are rarely seen except during the annual hunt, which
+      takes place every spring. In 1874 a pack of bloodhounds was brought down
+      by Lord Londesborough, who owns a beautiful park near Lyndhurst. The
+      sport, however, is said not to have been very good. Numerous droves of
+      forest ponies run wild, and with the herds of swine feeding upon the
+      acorns and beech-mast give animation to the scene. Amid the forest glades
+      even pigs become picturesque.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Charming excursions may be made into the Forest from the towns on its
+      borders, Southampton, Lymington, Christchurch, or Ringwood. But he who
+      would fully appreciate its beauties must take up his quarters at
+      Lyndhurst, in the very heart of its finest scenery. From this centre,
+      walks or drives may be taken in every direction, and in almost endless
+      variety. One of these, describing a circuit of about twelve miles, past
+      the Rufus Stone and Boldrewood, claims especial mention. The road leads
+      for a short distance through a richly-wooded and highly cultivated
+      district. On a knoll to the left is a farm-house occupying the site of the
+      Keep of Malwood, where William Rufus slept the night before his death.
+      From this point vistas, locally known as "peeps," are cut through the
+      trees, commanding noble views over the Forest, and extending southwards to
+      Southampton Water, the Channel and the Isle of Wight. The soil now becomes
+      more barren, and the trees more sparse and stunted. At the bottom of a
+      steep descent stood a pyramidal stone, marking the spot where the king was
+      slain, bearing on its three sides a record of the event. This has now been
+      cased by an iron cylinder, with the original inscriptions in bold relief.
+      To the left stretches a long bare ridge of moorland, from the summit of
+      which the eye ranges over grand sweeps of fern, gorse, and heather,
+      bounded by woodlands to the verge of the horizon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0042" id="linkimage-0042"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0068m.jpg" alt="0068m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0068.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The road now passes through a succession of forest glades, over smooth
+      green turf, beneath arches of beech and oak, with a luxuriant undergrowth
+      of holly and yew. At Burley Lodge we reach some of the finest and oldest
+      timber in the Forest. Here formerly stood twelve magnificent oaks, known
+      as the "Twelve Apostles." Most of these have, disappeared, but two yet
+      remain, which for size, beauty, and venerable antiquity are perhaps
+      unequalled. A little farther on, a grove of beeches arrests the traveller
+      by the grandeur and beauty of their forms, and is a favourite
+      halting-place. Enthusiastic lovers of sylvan scenery, artists and others,
+      not infrequently encamp here for days together, screened from wind and
+      weather not only by the canvas of their tent, but by the impenetrable roof
+      of foliage overhead. Bearing to the south, along an intricate labyrinth of
+      woodpaths, through modern plantations alternated with clumps of primeval
+      forest, we reach&amp; the cultivated district, with smiling farms, stately
+      mansions, and picturesque villages, returning thus to Lyndhurst.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0043" id="linkimage-0043"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0069m.jpg" alt="0069m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0069.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Before we bid a regretful adieu to this little forest town, we must by all
+      means visit the new church. The noble fresco of the Ten Virgins by
+      Leighton which forms the altar-piece, is understood to be the munificent
+      gift of the artist. The look of sullen or of wild despair on the faces of
+      the foolish virgins as they are rejected, and the expression of sternness
+      blended with pity in that of the angel who repels them, may well awaken
+      solemn thought:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Too late! too late! ye cannot enter now!"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0044" id="linkimage-0044"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0070m.jpg" alt="0070m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0070.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The Forest of Dean, though less extensive than the New Forest, is hardly
+      less beautiful;&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "The queen of forests all that west of Severn lie."&mdash;<i>Drayton</i>.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      It occupies the high ground between the valleys of the Severn and the Wye.
+      What Lyndhurst is to the one, the Speech House is to the other. The
+      Foresters' Courts have been held here for centuries, in a large hall
+      panelled with dark oak and hung round with deer's antlers. Here the
+      "verderers," foresters, "gavellers," miners, and Crown agents meet to
+      discuss in open court their various claims in a sort of local parliament.
+      Originally the King's Lodge, it is now a comfortable inn, affording good
+      accommodation for the lovers of sylvan scenery. The deer with which the
+      forest once abounded diminished in numbers up to 1850, when they were
+      removed. But, as in the New Forest, droves of ponies and herds of swine
+      roam at large among the trees, giving animation and interest to the
+      landscape. A different feeling is aroused by the sight of furnaces and
+      coal-pits in different directions, indicative of the mineral treasures
+      hidden beneath the fair surface of this forest. Ironworks have in fact
+      existed here from very early times; the forest-trees having, as in the
+      Weald of Sussex, afforded an abundant supply of fuel, though (thanks to
+      the coal-beds beneath) without the same result in denuding the district of
+      its leafy glories.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Savernake Forest, in Wiltshire, the property of the Marquis of Ailesbury,
+      is the only English forest belonging to a subject, and is especially
+      remarkable for its avenues of trees. One, of magnificent beeches, is
+      nearly four miles in length, and is intersected at one point of its course
+      by three separate "walks" or forest vistas, placed at such angles as with
+      the avenue itself to command eight points of the compass. The effect is
+      unique and beautiful, the artificial character of the arrangement being
+      amply compensated by the exceeding luxuriance of the thick-set trees, and
+      the soft loveliness of the verdant flowery glades which they enclose. The
+      smooth bright foliage of the beech is interspersed with the darker shade
+      of the fir, while towering elms and majestic wide-spreading oaks diversify
+      the line of view in endless, beautiful variety. At one point, a clump of
+      trees will be reached&mdash;the veterans of the forest, with moss-clad
+      trunks and gnarled half-leafless branches; the chief being known as the
+      King Oak, but sometimes called the Duke's, from the Lord Protector
+      Somerset, with whom this tree was a favourite. The railway from Hungerford
+      to Marlborough skirts this forest, the southern portion of which is known
+      as Tottenham Park. An obelisk, erected on one of its highest points, in
+      1781, to commemorate the recovery of George III., forms an
+      easily-recognisable landmark, and may also guide the wanderer in the
+      forest glades, who might else be bewildered by the very uniformity of the
+      lone lines of foliage. On the whole, if this Forest of Savernake has not
+      the vast extent, or the wild natural beauty of some other forests, it has
+      all the charm that the richest luxuriance can give, while some of its
+      noblest I trees will be found away from the great avenues, on the gentle
+      slopes or in the mossy dells, which diversify the surface of this most
+      beautiful domain. Nor will the visitor in spring-time fail to be delighted
+      by the great banks of rhododendron and azalea, which at many parts add
+      colour and splendour to the scene.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Among our smaller woodlands, Burnham Beeches claim special notice. They
+      are reached by a charming drive of five or six miles from Maidenhead. The
+      road leads at first through one of the most highly cultivated and fertile
+      districts in England, and then enters Dropmore Park, with its stately
+      avenues of cedar and pine, and some of the finest araucarias in Europe.
+      The Beeches occupy a knoll which rises from the plain, over which it
+      commands splendid views, Windsor Castle and the valley of the Thames being
+      conspicuous objects in the landscape. The trees are many of them of
+      immense girth; but having been pollarded&mdash;tradition says by
+      Cromwell's troopers&mdash;they do not attain a great height. They are thus
+      wanting in the feathery grace and sweep which form the characteristic
+      beauty of the beech; but, in exchange for this, the gnarled, twisted
+      branches are in the very highest degree picturesque, and to the wearied
+      Londoner few ways of spending a summer's day can be more enjoyable than a
+      ramble over the Burnham Knoll, with its turfy slopes and shaded dells, or
+      better still, a picnic with some chosen friends in the shadow of one or
+      other of these stupendous trees.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0045" id="linkimage-0045"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0072m.jpg" alt="0072m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0072.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Space will not allow us to do more than refer to the forests of Epping and
+      Hainault, Sherwood and Charnwood, Whittlebury and Delamere, with many
+      others. The names recal the memories of happy days spent beneath their
+      leafy screen, or in wandering over the wild moorlands on which they stand,
+      with grateful thoughts, too, of&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+                        "That unwearied love
+     Which planned and built, and still upholds this world,
+     So clothed with beauty for rebellious man."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0005" id="link2H_4_0005"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0046" id="linkimage-0046"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0074m.jpg" alt="0074m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0074.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0047" id="linkimage-0047"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0075m.jpg" alt="0075m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0075.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE traveller who
+      would enter into the full charm of "Shakspere's country" is recommended to
+      start from the quaint and ancient city of Coventry, and to pursue the high
+      road to Warwick, taking Kenilworth in his way. There is scarcely a walk in
+      England more perfect in its own kind of beauty than the five miles from
+      Coventry to Kenilworth. A wide, well-kept road follows, almost in a
+      straight line, the undulations of the hills. Soon after leaving the city,
+      a broad, flower-enamelled coppice, open to the road, is reached; then the
+      hedgerows are flanked on both sides with noble elms, forming a stately
+      avenue, through which glimpses are ever and anon obtained of purple
+      wood-crested hills in the distance. Broad rolling pastures, and
+      cornfields, rich in promise, stretch away on either hand; the grassy
+      road-side and high hedge-banks, showing the deep red subsoil of the
+      sandstone, or variegated clays of the red marls, are bright with wild
+      flowers, and the air is musical with the song of birds. Travellers are
+      few; the railway scream in the distance, to the left, suggests that all
+      who are in a hurry to reach their destination have taken another route; if
+      it be holiday time, parties of young men on Coventry bicycles are sure to
+      flash past; but it is our delight to linger and enjoy. We are, as Thomas
+      Fuller says, in the "Medi-terranean" part of England; and English scenery
+      nowhere displays a more characteristic charm.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0048" id="linkimage-0048"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0076m.jpg" alt="0076m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0076.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Kenilworth old church and the castle at length are reached; the latter, a
+      stately ruin. The visitor will duly note Cæsar's Tower, the original keep,
+      with its walls, in some parts, sixteen feet thick; then the remains of the
+      magnificent banqueting hall, built by John of Gaunt, and, lastly, the
+      dilapidated towers erected by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, one part
+      of which bears the name of poor Amy Robsart. No officious cicerone is
+      likely to offer his services; a trifling gate-fee opens the place freely
+      to all, either to rest on the greensward, or to climb the battered
+      ramparts; to survey, at one view, the ancient moat, the castle garden, the
+      tilt-yard, where knights met in mimic battle; the bed of the lake, where
+      sea-fights were imitated for a monarch's sport&mdash;in short, the
+      impressive memorials of a fashion in life and act that have long since
+      yielded to nobler things. "The massy ruins," says Sir Walter Scott, "only
+      serve to show what their splendour once was, and to impress on the musing
+      visitor the transitory value of human possessions, and the happiness of
+      those who enjoy a humble lot in industrious contentment." There are other
+      lessons, too, national, as well as individual; and we turn away from old
+      Kenilworth with thankfulness that the ruins of the nineteenth century will
+      at least tell to our descendants no tales of feudal tyranny, of royal
+      murders, or of sanguinary civil strife.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0049" id="linkimage-0049"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0078m.jpg" alt="0078m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0078.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The town of Kenilworth is of considerable size, containing, at the last
+      census, more than 3,000 inhabitants. The traveller may rest here, or in a
+      quaint little hostelry close to the castle gates, not forgetting to visit
+      the ancient church&mdash;that at the other end of the town is modern, and
+      need not detain him. After due refreshment, he will probably be in the
+      humour for another five miles' walk, or drive, along a road almost equal
+      in beauty to that by which he came, to Warwick, calling at Guy's Cliff by
+      the way. He had better make up his mind, for the time at least, to believe
+      in Guy, "the Saxon giant who slew the dun cow," and, after a life of
+      doughty deeds, retired to a hermitage, here where the Avon opens into a
+      lake-like transparent pool, at the foot of the exquisitely-wooded cliff.
+      The cave of the giant's retreat may be seen; and the traveller will be
+      charmed by the fair mansion on the one side overhanging the Avon, and on
+      the other opening down a long avenue, flowery and verdant, to the high
+      road.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0050" id="linkimage-0050"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0079m.jpg" alt="0079m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0079.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Warwick Castle is so frequently visited, that it needs little description.
+      The winding road, cut out of the solid rock from the lodge to the castle
+      gate, is a fitting approach to the stately fortress-palace, and well
+      prepares the visitor for what is to follow. Some will prefer to roam the
+      gardens, so far as watchful custodians permit, turning aside to the
+      solid-looking Gothic conservatory to see the great Warwick vase, brought
+      from fair Tivoli; others will follow the courteous housekeeper down the
+      long suite of castle halls, poting the glorious views from the deep
+      embayed windows, duly admiring the bed in which Queen Anne once slept,
+      with the portrait of her majesty, plump and rubicund, on the opposite
+      wall. The logs heaped up, as logs have been for centuries, in readiness
+      for the great hall-fire, carry the mind back to olden fashions; the inlaid
+      table of precious stones, said to be "worth" ten thousand pounds, excites
+      a languid curiosity; the helmet of Oliver Cromwell, an authentic relic,
+      suggests many a thought of the great brain which it once enclosed; and,
+      while other items in the antique show pass as phantasmagoria before the
+      bewildered attention, there are some portraits on the walls, to have seen
+      which is a lasting pleasure of memory. It is a happy thing that these were
+      spared by the fire of 1871; justly counted as a national calamity rather
+      than a family misfortune. The traces of the conflagration are now almost
+      wholly removed, although some priceless treasures have been irrecoverably
+      lost.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0051" id="linkimage-0051"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0080m.jpg" alt="0080m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0080.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      At the lodge, by the castle gate, there is a museum of curiosities, which
+      will interest the believers in the great "Guy," and will amuse others. For
+      there is the giant's "porridge pot" of bell-metal, vast in circumference
+      and resonant in ring; with his staff, his horse's armour, and, to crown
+      all, some ribs of the "dun cow" herself! What if, in sober truth, some
+      last lingerer of a species now extinct roamed over the great forest of
+      Arden, the terror of the country, until Sir Guy wrought deliverance?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Warwick itself need not detain us long; the church, however, demands a
+      visit; and the Beauchamp Chapel, with its monuments, is one of the finest
+      in England. But the pedestrian will probably elect to spend the night at
+      Leamington, close by, before continuing his pilgrimage. A visit to the
+      ever beautiful Jephson Gardens, with their wealth of evergreen oaks, soft
+      turfy lawn, and broad fair water, will afford him a pleasant evening, and
+      the next morning will see him <i>en route</i> for Stratford-upon-Avon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0052" id="linkimage-0052"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8081.jpg" alt="8081 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8081.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Again let him take the road, drinking in the influence of the pleasant
+      Warwickshire scene; quiet, rural loveliness varying with every mile, and
+      glimpses of the silver Avon at intervals enhancing the charm. A slight
+      détour will lead to Hampton Lucy, and Charlecote House and Park, memorable
+      for the exploits of Shakspere's youth, and for the worshipful dignity of
+      Sir Thomas Lucy, the presumed original of Mr. Justice Shallow. The park
+      having been skirted, or crossed, the tourist proceeds three or four miles
+      further by a good road, and enters Stratford-upon-Avon by a stone bridge
+      of great length, crossing the Avon and adjacent low-lying meadows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bridge, which dates from the reign of Henry VII., has been widened on
+      an ingenious plan, by a footpath, supported on a kind of iron balcony.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is easy, however, to imagine its exact appearance when Shakspere paced
+      its narrow roadway, or hung over its parapet to watch the skimming swallow
+      or the darting trout and minnow.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This Warwickshire town has been so often and so exhaustively described,
+      that we may well forbear from any minute detail. Every visitor knows, with
+      tolerable accuracy, what he has to expect. He finds, as he had
+      anticipated, a quiet country town, very much like other towns; neither
+      obtrusively modern, nor quaintly antique&mdash;in one word, common-place,
+      save for the all-pervading presence and memory of Shakspere. The house in
+      Henley Street, where he is said to have been born, will be first visited,
+      of course; then the tourist will walk along the High Street, noting the
+      Shakspere memorials in the shop-windows, looking up as he passes to the
+      fine statue of the poet, placed by Garrick in front of the Town Hall.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At the site of New Place, now an open, well-kept garden, with here and
+      there some of the shattered foundations of the poet's house, protected by
+      wire-work, on the greensward, the visitor will add his tribute of wonder,
+      if not of contempt, to the twin memories of Sir Hugh Clopton, who pulled
+      down Shakspere's house in one generation, and of the Rev. Francis
+      Gastrell, who cut down Shakspere's mulberry-tree in another. Just opposite
+      are the guild chapel, the guild hall, with the grammar-school where the
+      poet, no doubt, received his education; and, after some further walking,
+      the extremity of the town will be reached, where a little gate opens to a
+      charming avenue of over-arching lime-trees, leading to the church.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0053" id="linkimage-0053"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0082m.jpg" alt="0082m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0082.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Before he enters, let him pass round to the other side, where the
+      churchyard gently slopes to the Avon, and drink in the tranquillity and
+      beauty of the rustic scene. Then, after gaining admission, he will go
+      straight to the chancel and gaze upon those which, after all, are the only
+      memorials of the poet which possess a really satisfying value, the
+      monument and the tomb.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      As all the world knows, the tomb is a dark slab, lying in the chancel, the
+      inscription turned to the east. No name is given, only the lines here
+      copied from a photograph:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Good Frend for Jesvs sake forbeare
+     To DIGG THE DVST ENCLOASED HEAEE:
+     Blest be ye man v'spares thes stones,
+     And cvrst be he yl moves mv bones.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0055" id="linkimage-0055"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0085m.jpg" alt="0085m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0085.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      To suppose these lines written by Shakspere himself, seems absurd. They
+      are not, indeed, the only doggrel unjustly fathered upon him. The
+      prostrate figure on a tomb in the east wall of the chancel, representing
+      Shakspere's contemporary and intimate, John-a-Combe, suggests another
+      stanza, even inferior in taste and diction. But we have no room now for
+      such thoughts. Above us, on the left, is the monument of the poet,
+      coloured; not content with "improving" the plays, caused the bust also to
+      be improved by a coating of white paint, how the barbarism was removed in
+      1861, and the statue restored, is a tale often told. The effigy certainly
+      existed within seven years of Shakspere's death, so that, in all
+      probability, we have a faithful representation of the poet as his
+      contemporaries knew him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0056" id="linkimage-0056"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9086.jpg" alt="9086 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9086.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The inscription is clumsy enough, but proves that the poet's greatness was
+      not, as sometimes alleged, unrecognised in his own generation. The epitaph
+      on Mistress Susanna Hall, a higher note. Thus it began
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Witty above her sex&mdash;but that's not all&mdash;
+     Wise to salvation, was good Mistress Hall.
+     Something of Shakspere was in that; but this
+     Wholly of Him with Whom she's now in bliss."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      It is to be regretted that this inscription has been effaced, to make room
+      for the epitaph of some obscure descendant. That to Shakespere's widow,
+      the wife of his youth, Anne Hathaway however remains placed over Her grave
+      by her son; there is something in it pathetically and nobly Christian. It
+      is in Latin, and may be rendered freely: "My mother: thou gavest me milk
+      and life: alas, for me, that I can but repay thee with a sepulchre! Would
+      that some good angel might roll the stone away, and thy form come forth in
+      the Saviour's likeness! But my prayers avail not. Come quickly, O Christ!
+      then shall my mother, though enclosed in the tomb, arise and mount to
+      heaven!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Before leaving the church we may note some monuments worth attention, at
+      least in any other place; as well as a stained glass window, not yet
+      complete, but intended to illustrate from Scripture Shakspere's Seven Ages
+      of Man. Moses the infant, Jacob the lover, Deborah the Judge, and one or
+      two other representations are finished, but the observer feels that the
+      types of character are not Shakspere's.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The day's explorations are not yet over. The epitaph on Anne Hathaway's
+      tomb, if nothing else, has quickened our desire to know something more of
+      her surroundings in those days when Shakspere won and wooed her in her
+      rustic home. Retracing our steps through the town, we are directed to a
+      field-path bearing straight for Shottery, a village but a mile distant. It
+      is not difficult to picture the youthful lover, perhaps, out here in the
+      fair open country, among the wild flowers which line the walk, and which
+      he has so well described, for there are few traditions of
+      Stratford-upon-Avon better authenticated than that which represents this
+      as Shakspere's walk in the clays when he "went courting." The village is a
+      straggling one, with a look of comfort about its farmsteads and cottages;
+      and, at the furthest extremity from Stratford, in a pleasant dell,
+      opposite a willow-shaded stream, we find the cottage, not much altered, it
+      may be, in externals, since the poet, then a lad of eighteen, there found
+      his bride. The capacious chimney-corner, where no doubt the lovers sat, is
+      genuine; and other antique relics, from a carved bed to an old Bible,
+      carry the mind back, at least, to the era of the poet; while the garden
+      and orchard, with the well of pure spring water, must be much as Shakspere
+      saw them.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      And now having returned to our comfortable hotel&mdash;where almost every
+      room, by the way, is named after one of the dramas, ours being "All's well
+      that ends well"&mdash;what was the net result of the visit in regard to
+      the personality and history of the great poet? It may seem a strange thing
+      to confess, but the effect of the whole was to put Shakspere himself
+      further from us, and to deepen the mystery which every student of his life
+      and works finds so perplexing. For, save the monument and the tomb, there
+      was absolutely nothing to tell of the poet's life; no scrap of his
+      writing, no book known to have been his, no original authentic record of
+      his words and deeds, no contemporary portrait, no object, whether article
+      of furniture, pen, inkstand, or other implement of daily use, associated
+      with his name. Strange that a generation, which, as we have seen, so
+      honoured his genius and character, should not have preserved the poorest
+      or smallest memorial of his life among them! True, there is an old,
+      worm-eaten desk in the birth-place, at which he may have, sat in the
+      grammar-school; in a room in the town above the seed-shop there is a rude
+      piece of carving, representing David and Goliath, which once ornamented a
+      room of the house in Henley Street, and bears an inscription, "said to
+      have been composed by Shakspere," A.D. 1606. Let our readers judge:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Goliath comes with sword and spear,
+     And David with his sling:
+     Although Goliath rage and swear
+     Down David doth him bring."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      For the rest, the relics are evidently imported: an ancient bedstead,
+      old-fashioned chairs, and the like; interesting in their way, but with
+      nothing to tell us of the poet. He remains to the most zealous
+      relic-hunter as great a mystery as Homer himself. Or if in anything here
+      we see the poet, it is in those scenes of external nature which he has so
+      vividly pictured. We find him among the flowers: beside the
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+         "bank whereon the wild thyme blows,
+     Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows,
+     Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,
+     With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0057" id="linkimage-0057"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0089m.jpg" alt="0089m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0089.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      By a happy ingenuity the garden of the house in Henley Street, now
+      prettily and daintily kept, has been planted to a great extent with
+      Shakspere's flowers; "pansies for thoughts," "rosemary for remembrance,"
+      with "columbines," the "blue-veined violets," the wild thyme, woodbine,
+      musk-rose, and many more. His works are his true monument; and of these
+      there is, in the same house, a very large and noble collection, with a
+      whole library of literature bearing upon them, gathered with admirable
+      care. Yet how few autobiographical details do the volumes contain! How
+      hopeless the task of constructing, even from the sonnets, a connected
+      picture of his life and career! And of the half-dozen anecdotes which have
+      in one way or other descended to us of his words and ways, who can say
+      that any detail is true?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0058" id="linkimage-0058"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9090.jpg" alt="9090 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9090.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      It is, perhaps, from the portraits, after all, that we may gain the most
+      trustworthy impression of the poet's individuality. That on the tomb is
+      for obvious reasons the most valuable. There it has been, in the sight of
+      all men, from the very days of Shakspere. The eyes of his widow and of
+      their children must often have rested upon it; and there can be no doubt
+      that it presents the true aspect of the man. The engravings of the bust,
+      and even the photographs, seem to us to exaggerate the calm, serene
+      expression of the countenance. Partly, it may be, from the effect of the
+      colouring on the full and shapely cheeks, there is an air almost of
+      joviality about the face. It is quite as easy to recognise the
+      Warwickshire squire of New Place, as to feel the presence of the poet of
+      all time. There is, in the Henley Street house, a portrait of
+      extraordinary history; lately discovered. The antiquity of this portrait
+      seems indubitable; but the face seems a copy, and, so far as we could
+      judge without seeing the two side by side, of that on the monument. For
+      the we naturally associate with Shakspere, we must go rather to the
+      "Chandos portrait," now in the National Portrait Gallery, or to the
+      terra-cotta bust, disinterred in 1845, from the site of the old theatre in
+      Lincoln's Inn Fields, and presented by the Duke of Devonshire to the
+      Garrick Club. In a somewhat rough fashion, the Droeshout portrait,
+      prefixed to the first folio edition of the plays, in 1623, gives a similar
+      impression of power; and Ben Jonson, who knew Shakspere personally,
+      testifies strongly to its correctness:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "This figure that thou here seest put,
+     It was for gentle Shakspere cut;
+     Wherein the graver had a strife
+     With Nature, to outdo the Life."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      But most of all is the greatness of Shakspere brought home to us by the
+      simple record of the names of those who, from all quarters of the world,
+      have come to this little Warwickshire town, to do homage to his memory. In
+      all the world there is no shrine of pilgrimage like this, not only in the
+      number of the visitants, but in their wonderful variety in character,
+      temperament, and belief.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0059" id="linkimage-0059"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9091.jpg" alt="9091 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9091.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The power of the spell shows the magician. The fading pencilled
+      inscriptions which cover the walls of the chamber in Henley Street; the
+      pages of the autograph books; the words in which visitors have recorded
+      their impressions, attest the strange attractiveness and power of this one
+      genius. Perhaps the most interesting of the autograph books is that which
+      was removed from the house in Henley Street many years ago, and is now to
+      be seen in the room over the seed-room, to which we have referred already.
+      It seems to have been purchased and presented by an American gentleman,
+      Mr. T. H. Perkins, of Boston, in 1812; and its pages contain the
+      autographs of Sir Walter Scott, Lord Byron, Miss Edge-a Baillie, James
+      Professors Sedgarence," "Arthur, Duke of Wellington," with a host beside.
+      A thoughtful hour may well be spent in turning the well-worn pages, and in
+      meditating on "the vanity and glory of literature."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      For there was one point in which even Shakspere failed, and the admiring
+      reverence with which we join the throng of pilgrims to the shrine never
+      passes into <i>worship</i>. We mean, of course, such "worship" as a merely
+      human being may supposably claim; and, in view of the highest
+      possibilities of our nature, we mark in Shakspere a certain limitation on
+      the <i>heavenward</i> side of his genius. The point at which intellectual
+      sympathy and admiring affection pass into adoration, is the point at which
+      we are raised <i>beyond ourselves</i>, and made conscious of the infinite.
+      Never will our moral nature consent to unite with our reason and our heart
+      in yielding its deepest worth, reverence, until it is uplifted into that
+      sphere in which we can only walk by faith, and from which we can look down
+      upon earthly things dwarfed and humbled by the comparison with the
+      illimitable beyond.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Now Shakspere's genius belongs essentially to the lower sphere. On earth
+      he is the master. Every phase of nature, every subtilty of the intellect,
+      every winding of the heart, is familiar to him. To use the comparison,
+      often repeated because always felt to be so true, his wonderful mind was
+      the mirror of all earthly shapes and various human energies. His own
+      idiosyncracy never appears; the mirror is absolutely colourless and true.
+      His genius is universal: in reading him we are but surveying the face of
+      nature. To many a subtle criticism, the answer has been given, Shakspere
+      surely never meant this! The reply may be, perhaps not, but nature meant
+      it; and, therefore, we have a right to find it there! Such is the highest
+      achievement of <i>literature</i>, whose business it is to reflect the
+      facts of the world, of society, of the human heart&mdash;plentifully to
+      declare the thing as it is, and compendiously to reduce this round world
+      into the microcosm of a book. Here is Shakspere's transcendent power, and
+      the secret of his supremacy among writers. He is simply the greatest
+      literary man that ever lived. The transparency of the mirror, to return to
+      the illustration, is maintained, not only by the absence of intrusive
+      individuality, but by his perfect mastery over the instrument of
+      expression. It is worth while to read his dramas over again, as a study of
+      language alone. No writer has ever approached Shakspere in the precision,
+      picturesqueness, and the finished, yet seemingly careless, beauty of his
+      diction. His prose is even more marvellous than his poetry. In the sense
+      in which we use the word "classic," his works may truly be called the
+      foremost classic of the world.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      What, then, is the defect which will for ever prevent Shakspere from
+      receiving the entire homage of the heart of man? In a sentence, the mirror
+      is turned towards earth alone, and in its very completeness hides heaven
+      from the view. "It would be impossible," says a contemporary writer, "to
+      find a more remarkable example of a genius wide as the world, yet <i>not</i>
+      in any sense <i>above</i> the world, than our great English poet's." And
+      again, "it would be almost impossible to find any great Christian poet
+      whose type of imagination is so entirely and singularly <i>contrasted</i>
+      with that of the Bible, or in whom that peculiar faculty which, for want
+      of a better term, we are forced to call the thirst <i>for the supernatural</i>,
+      is more remarkably absent."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This statement we accept, in full remembrance of the morals manifold, the
+      theological references, and Scriptural parallels, which are scattered
+      through the poet's writings. Bishop Wordsworth, of St. Andrew's, and
+      others, have spent much labour, not altogether unprofitably, in showing
+      that Shakspere knew his Bible: while, oddly enough, among the passages
+      expunged by the estimable Bowdler, the Biblical references occupy a
+      considerable place, as though it had been profanity to introduce them in
+      such a connexion! The most is made of Shakspere's religiousness by the
+      present Archbishop of Dublin, in a sermon preached at Stratford-upon-Avon
+      at the Shakspere Tercentenary, in 1864.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      He knew the deep corruption of our fallen nature, the desperate wickedness
+      of the heart of man; else he would never have put into the mouth of a
+      prince of stainless life such a confession as this: 'I am myself
+      indifferently honest: but yet I could accuse one of such things that it
+      were better my mother had not borne me.... with more offences at my beck
+      than I have thoughts to put them in, imagination to give them shape, or
+      time to act them in.' He has set forth the scheme of our redemption in
+      words as lovely as have ever flowed from the lips of uninspired man:&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'Why, all the souls that live were forfeit once,
+     And He that might the vantage best  have Look,
+     Found out the remedy.'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      He has put home to the holiest here their need of an infinite forgiveness
+      from Him who requires truth in the inward parts:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'How would you be,
+     If He, which is the top of judgment, should
+     But judge you as you are?'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      "He was one who was well aware what a stewardship was his own in those
+      marvellous gifts which had been entrusted to him, for he has himself told
+      us:&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'Heaven does with us as we with torches do,
+     Not light them for themselves: for if our virtues
+     Did not go forth of us,'twere all alike
+     As if we had them not.'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      And again he has told us that
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'Spirits are not finely touched
+     But for fine issues:'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Assuredly not ignorant how finely his own had been touched, and what would
+      be demanded from him in return. He was one who certainly knew that there
+      is none so wise that he can 'circumvent God;' and that for a man, whether
+      he be called early or late,
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'Ripeness is all.'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Who shall persuade us that he abode outside of that holy temple of our
+      faith, whereof he has uttered such glorious things&mdash;admiring its
+      beauty, but not himself entering to worship there?
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      To the same effect, we may quote the preliminary sentence of Shakspere's
+      will: "I commend my soul into the hands of God, my Creator, hoping, and
+      assuredly believing, through the only merits of Jesus Christ, my Saviour,
+      to be made partaker of life everlasting." With such a master of words,
+      this avowal would be no mere formality. During Shakspere's last residence
+      at Stratford, moreover, the town was under strong religious influences.
+      Many a "great man in Israel," in fraternal visits to the Rev. Richard
+      Byfield, the vicar, is said to have been hospitably entertained at New
+      Place; and memorable evenings must have been spent in converse on the
+      highest themes. In addition to all this, the following sonnet furnishes an
+      interesting proof that the heart of Shakspere, at an earlier period, had
+      not been unsusceptible to religious sentiments and aspirations:&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Poor soul, the centre of my sinful earth,
+     Fooled by those rebel powers that thee array,
+     Why dost thou pine within, and suffer dearth,
+     Painting thy outward walls so costly gay?
+     Why so large cost, having so short a lease,
+     Dost thou upon thy fading mansion spend?
+     Shall worms, inheritors of thine excess,
+     Eat up thy charge? Is this thy body's end?
+     Then, soul, live thou upon thy body's loss,
+     And let that pine to aggravate thy store;
+     Buy terms divine in selling hours of dross;
+     Within be fed, without be rich no more:
+     So shalt thou feed on death, that feeds on men,
+     And, death once dead, there's no more dying then."
+     &mdash;<i>Sonnet</i>  146.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      All that such words suggest we gladly admit among the probabilities of
+      Shakspere's unknown life. But in his dramas themselves we find no assured
+      grasp of the highest spiritual truth, nothing to show that such truth
+      controlled his views of life with imperial sway; little or nothing to
+      uplift the reader from the play of human passions and the entanglement of
+      human interests to the higher realms of Faith. It is the same Shakspere
+      who reveals the depths of human corruption, and the nobleness of human
+      excellence. But in portraying the latter, he stops short, and fails
+      exactly where the higher light of faith would have enabled him to complete
+      the delineation. His best and greatest characters are a law unto
+      themselves: his men are passionate and strong; his women are beautiful,
+      with a loveliness that scarcely ever reminds us of heaven: he has neither
+      "raised the mortal to the skies," nor "brought the angel down."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We turn, then, from Stratford-upon-Avon, feeling, as we have said, more
+      deeply than ever the mystery that overhangs the career of the man,
+      admiring, if possible, more heartily than ever the genius of the poet, and
+      acknowledging, not without mournfulness, how much greater Shakspere might
+      have been. For there was an inspiration within his reach that would have
+      made him chief among the witnesses of God to men; and his magnificent
+      endowments would then have been the richest offering ever placed by human
+      hand upon that Altar which "sanctifieth both the giver and the gift."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0006" id="link2H_4_0006"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE COUNTRY OF BUNYAN AND COWPER.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0060" id="linkimage-0060"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0096m.jpg" alt="0096m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0096.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0061" id="linkimage-0061"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0097m.jpg" alt="0097m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0097.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">S</span>OME of the most
+      characteristic excursions through the gently undulating rural scenery
+      which distinguishes so large a portion of the south midland district of
+      England may be made along the towing-paths of the canals. The notion may
+      appear unromantic; the pathway is artificial, yet it has now become
+      rusticated and fringed with various verdure; some of the associations of
+      the canal are anything but attractive&mdash;but upon the whole the charm
+      is great. A wide, level path, driven straight across smiling valleys and
+      by the side of hills, here and there skirting a fair park, and
+      occasionally bringing some broad open landscape into sudden view, with the
+      gleam and coolness of still waters ever at the traveller's side, affords
+      him a succession of pictures which perhaps the "strong climber of the
+      mountain's side" may disdain, but which to many will be all the more
+      delightful, because they can be enjoyed with no more fatigue than that of
+      a leisurely, health-giving stroll.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It was by such a walk as this through some of the pleasantest parts of
+      Hertfordshire that we first made our way to Berkhampstead&mdash;the
+      birthplace of William Cowper, turning from the canal bank to the embowered
+      fragments of the castle, and through the quiet little town to the "public
+      way,"&mdash;the pretty rural bye-road where the "gardener Robin" drew his
+      little master to school:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Delighted with the bauble coach, and wrapped
+     In scarlet mantle warm, and velvet capped,"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      while the fond mother watched her darling from the "nursery window," the
+      memory of which one pathetic poem has made immortal.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In a well-known sentence, Lord Macaulay affirms in reference to the
+      seventeenth century, "We are not afraid to say, that though there were
+      many clever men in England during the latter half of that century, there
+      were only two minds which possessed the imaginative faculty in a very
+      eminent degree. One of these minds produced the <i>Paradise Lost</i>; the
+      other, the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>." Similarly, with regard to the
+      brilliant literary period which began towards the close of the eighteenth
+      century, "we are not afraid to say," that although there were many poets
+      in England of no mean order, there were but two to whom it was given to
+      view nature simply and sincerely, so as adequately to express "the delight
+      of man in the works of God." One of these poets produced the <i>Task</i>,
+      the other the <i>Exclusion</i>.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0062" id="linkimage-0062"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0098m.jpg" alt="0098m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0098.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      When Macaulay wrote, the place of Bunyan in literature was still held a
+      little doubtful; the place of Cowper among poets is not wholly
+      unquestioned now. Some are impatient of his simplicity, others scorn his
+      piety, many cannot escape, as they read, from the shadow of the darkness
+      in which he wrote. But we cannot doubt that, when the coming reaction from
+      feverishness and heathenism in poetry shall have set in, the name of
+      Cowper will win increasing honour; men will search for themselves into the
+      source of those bright phrases, happy allusions, "jewels five words long,
+      that on the stretched forefinger of all time sparkle for ever," for which
+      the world is often unconsciously indebted to his poems; while his
+      incomparable letters will remain as the finest and most brilliant
+      specimens of an art which penny-postage, telegrams, and post-cards have
+      rendered almost extinct in England.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      No one at any rate will wonder now that we should turn awhile from more
+      outwardly striking or enchanting scenes to the ground made classic and
+      sacred to the English Christian by the memories of Bunyan and Cowper. We
+      may associate their names, not only from their brotherhood in faith and
+      teaching, but from the coincidence which identifies their respective homes
+      with one and the same river, and blends their memories with the fair still
+      landscapes through which it steals.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0063" id="linkimage-0063"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0099m.jpg" alt="0099m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0099.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The Ouse, most meandering of English streams, waters a country almost
+      perfectly level throughout, though here and there fringed by the
+      undulations of the receding Chilterns;&mdash;with a picturesqueness
+      derived from rich meadows, broad pastures with flowery hedgerows, and tall
+      stately trees; while in many places the still river expands into a
+      miniature lake, with water lilies floating upon its bosom. Among scenes
+      like these the great dreamer passed his youth, in his village home at
+      Elstow; often visiting the neighbouring town of Bedford, where we may
+      picture him as leaning in many a musing fit over the old Ouse Bridge, on
+      which the town prison then stood. How little, did John Bunyan then think
+      what those prison walls would become to him and to the world! The bridge
+      is gone, the town has become a thriving modern bustling place; only the
+      river remains, and the country walk to Elstow is little changed. There is
+      the cottage which tradition identifies with Bunyan: with the church and
+      the belfry, so memorable in the record of his experiences, the village
+      green on which in his thoughtless youth he used to play at "tip-cat:"
+      there is nothing more to see, but it is impossible to pace through those
+      homely ways without remembering how once the place was luminous to his
+      awe-stricken spirit with "the light that never was on sea or shore," and
+      the landscape on which his inward eye was fixed was that which was closed
+      in by the great white throne.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0064" id="linkimage-0064"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9100.jpg" alt="9100 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9100.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      It is remarkable that there is in Bunyan's writings so little of local
+      colouring. His fields, hills and valleys are not of earth. The "wilderness
+      of this world" through which he wandered was something quite apart from
+      the Bedfordshire flats, although indeed "the den" on which he lighted is
+      but too truthful a representation of the prison on the old Ouse Bridge.
+      Even where familiar scenes may have supplied the groundwork of the
+      picture, incidental touches show that his soul was beyond them. His
+      hillsides are covered with "vineyards;" the meadows by the riverside are
+      fair with "lilies;" the fruits in the orchard have mystic healing virtue.
+      The scenery of Palestine rather than of Bedfordshire is present to his
+      view, and his well-loved Bible has contributed as much to his descriptions
+      as any reminiscences of his excursions around his native place. *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * It has recently been argued, with some plausibility, that
+     Bunyan may have derived some of his pictures of scenery from
+     his preaching excursions to the Surrey hills and the Sussex
+     Weald (see pp. 33-35), where he would often cross the track
+     of "the Canterbury pilgrims." "It is said that he frequently
+     selected the hilly districts of South Surrey as his hiding-
+     place; two houses, one on Quarry Hill, Guildford, and the
+     other known as Horn Hatch, on Shalford Common, being pointed
+     out as among those he occupied.".... "The struggles of the
+     pedestrian through the Shalford swamp might have given
+     Bunyan the original idea of the <i>Slough of Despond</i>; the
+     Surrey Hills he loved so well might be called the
+     <i>Delectable Mountains</i>; St. Martha's Hill would answer
+     perfectly his description of the <i>Hill Difficulty</i>; the Vale
+     of Albury, amid the picturesque scenery of which he passed
+     so many days of true humiliation, might be considered the
+     <i>Valley of Humiliation</i>; and lastly, the name <i>Doubting
+     Castle</i> actually exists to this day, near the Pilgrims' Way,
+     being approached, as its namesake was supposed lo be, by a
+     path near Box Hill. It is right, however, to state that the
+     antiquity of the last name quoted is not verified."&mdash;Notes
+     on the Pilgrims' Way in West Surrey; by Captain E. Renouard
+     James, R.E. Stanford, 1871.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      But it was after all in no earthly walks or haunts of men that he found
+      the prototypes of his immortal pictures. They are idealised experiences,
+      and from the Wicket gate to the Land of Beulah they all represent what he
+      had seen and felt only in his soul.* No doubt the people are in many cases
+      less abstract. A very remarkable edition of the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>,
+      published some years ago by an artist of rare promise, since deceased,
+      portrayed the personages of the allegory in the very guise in which Bunyan
+      must often have met their originals up and down in Bedfordshire. Such
+      faces may be seen to-day. We ourselves thought we saw Mr. Honesty, in a
+      brown coat, looking at some bullocks in the Bedford market-place.
+      Ignorance tried to entice us into a theological discussion at the little
+      country-side inn where we rested for the night: the next morning, as we
+      passed along, Mercy was knitting at a farmhouse door, while young Mr.
+      Brisk, driving by in his gig, made her an elaborate bow, of which we were
+      glad to see she took the slightest possible notice.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * The impression made upon a passing traveller through
+     Bunyan's Country is well expressed in some verses entitled
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Bedford is now at least rich in memorials of its illustrious citizen and
+      prisoner for conscience' sake. The Bunyan Statue, presented by the Duke of
+      Bedford, was erected in 1874, and is one of the noblest and most
+      characteristic out-of-door monuments in England. It has indeed been
+      suggested that Bunyan might more appropriately have been represented in
+      the attitude of writing than in that of preaching; but it should be
+      remembered that the latter was the work he chose and loved, and that his
+      greatest works were penned during the period of enforced silence. It is
+      therefore with a fine appropriateness that he is represented as standing,
+      as if in the presence of some vast congregation, the Bible in his hand,
+      his eyes uplifted to heaven, while upon the pedestal are carved his own
+      words, expressive of his own highest ideal.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+            "THROUGH BEDFORDSHIRE BY RAIL.
+
+  "Far behind we leave the clangour of the smoky northern town;
+  Now' we hurry through a country all brown-green and sweet grey-brown:
+  Landscapes gently undulating where light shadows softly pass,
+  Quiet rivers silent flowing through the rarely-trodden grass.
+
+  Here and there a few sheep grazing 'neath the hedgerow poplars tall.
+  Here and there a brown-thatched homestead or a rustic cottage small;
+  As we rush on road or iron through the fields on either hand,
+  In the autumn twilight gravely smiles John Bunyan's land.
+
+  More than all the fells and mountains we have passed upon our way,
+  More than e'en that giant city we shall greet ere close of day,
+  Touches us the tender beauty, soft, harmonious, simple, quaint,
+  Of these fields and winding bye-lanes where yet linger, sweet and faint,
+  Echoes of long-vanished ages, rustic homes one might have seen
+  In the old days when John Bunyan played at cat on Elstow Green,
+  Meadows still as when he wandered seeking God; while on each hand,
+  Gravely smiling in the twilight, lay John Bunyan's land.
+
+  Tender as the closing music of the Mighty Dreamer's lay,
+  Lies the country gently round us, all brown-green and soft brown-grey.
+  Tender are our thoughts towards it, as we ponder o'er the book
+  That has travelled through the wide world from this homely, rural nook.
+
+  Tenderly we name John Bunyan, martyr, poet, hero, saint,
+  Faithful pastor, strong and loving, like his Bedford, simple, quaint.
+  Ah! the happy tears half blind us as we gaze on either hand
+  O'er the gravely smiling beauty of John Bunyan's land."&mdash;Lizzie Aldridge.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0065" id="linkimage-0065"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0102m.jpg" alt="0102m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0102.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      No visitor to Bedford will neglect the rapidly accumulating Bunyan Museum,
+      comprising not only some simple relics of his lifetime, as his staff, jug,
+      and the like, with books bearing his autograph&mdash;his priceless Bible
+      and Foxes Martyrs&mdash;but the various editions of his works, and in
+      particular a collection of the illustrations of the <i>Pilgrim's Progress</i>,
+      from the first rude designs to the latest products of artistic skill.
+      These are stored with reverent care, in connexion with the place of
+      worship occupied by the Christian Church to which he ministered, and now
+      known as Bunyan Meeting. To this edifice, likewise, a pair of massive
+      bronze gates have been contributed by the Duke of Bedford, with panels
+      illustrative of scenes from the allegory.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0066" id="linkimage-0066"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0104m.jpg" alt="0104m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0104.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Altogether, if we have found in the neighbourhood of Bedford no Delectable
+      Mountains, nor Valley of Humiliation, nor Land of Beulah, we have at least
+      seen much pleasant English scenery, a fertile, well-cultivated country,
+      and in the very absence of more outwardly exciting prospects, have had the
+      more "leisure of thought" to dwell in the ideal world which Bunyan has
+      made as familiar to us as our own home.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0067" id="linkimage-0067"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8105.jpg" alt="8105 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8105.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      From Bedford to Olney the distance by rail is between ten and eleven
+      miles; by "the sinuous Ouse" probably between thirty and forty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Few travellers, therefore, will care to ascend by the river banks, and the
+      frequent shallows preclude the thought of a boating excursion, which
+      otherwise would by its leisurely length be some preparation for our
+      exchange of the associations of the seventeenth century for those of the
+      eighteenth. One hundred and three years separated the birthday of Bunyan
+      from that of Cowper.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The interval marks the greatest advance that had ever been made in the
+      history of English thought and freedom. But in the essentials of faith and
+      teaching the two men were one; nor in some of their experiences were they
+      very dissimilar. Both were sensitive, conscientious, and often in the
+      midst of their holiest longings after God were most terror-stricken by
+      thoughts of the wrath to come. Some pages of Bunyan's Autobiography may
+      compare in their passionate anxiety with the annals of Cowper's despair.
+      The great dreamer soon escaped from Doubting Castle to the Delectable
+      Mountains; but for the poet, the dungeon bars remained unloosed until the
+      final summons came to the everlasting hills. *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * "From the moment of Cowper's death, till the coffin was
+     closed," writes his friend and relative Mr. Johnson, "the
+     expression with which his countenance had settled was that
+     of calmness and composure, mingled, as it were, with <i>holy
+     surprise."&mdash;Southey's Life.</i>
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      The sensitiveness of Cowper to external influences was so great, as to
+      raise the doubt whether other scenes and a different atmosphere might not
+      have prevented many of his sorrows.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0068" id="linkimage-0068"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9106.jpg" alt="9106 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9106.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      On the death of his father, when the poet had reached the age of
+      twenty-five, he touchingly and expressively tells us that it had never
+      till then occurred to him "that a parson has no fee-simple in the house
+      and glebe he occupies. There was," he says, "neither tree, nor gate, nor
+      stile in all that country to which I did not feel a relation, and the
+      house itself I preferred to a palace." To Huntingdon, where he first made
+      acquaintance with the Ouse, and became an inmate with the Unwins, he clung
+      very lovingly, although he does not rate the charms of the neighbourhood
+      very highly. "My lot is cast in a country where we have neither woods nor
+      commons nor pleasant prospects: all flat and insipid; in the summer
+      adorned only winter covered with a flood." But it was at Olney that Cowper
+      found such scenery as he could appreciate and love. "He does not," in the
+      words of Sir James Mackintosh, "describe the most beautiful scenes in
+      nature; he discovers what is most beautiful in ordinary scenes."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0069" id="linkimage-0069"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8106.jpg" alt="8106 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8106.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      In fact, Cowper saw very few beautiful scenes, but his poetical eye, and
+      his moral heart, detected beauty in the sandy flats of Buckinghamshire."
+      The walk, especially, from the quiet little town to the village of Weston
+      Underwood, he has made classic among English scenes by the description in
+      the first book of the <i>Task</i>.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Leaving Olney, where, in truth, there is not much to detain us, save the
+      poet's home&mdash;the same in outward aspect, at least, as during the
+      twenty years spent by him within its walls,&mdash;and the summer-house in
+      the garden where he sat and wrote, while Mrs. Unwin knitted, and Puss,
+      Tiny, and Bess sported upon the grass&mdash;we may climb the little
+      eminence above the river, and with an admiration like that of the poet
+      ninety years ago, "dwell upon the scene." "Here is the "distant plough
+      slow moving," and
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0070" id="linkimage-0070"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0107m.jpg" alt="0107m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0107.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Here Ouse, slow winding through a level plain
+     Of spacious meads, with cattle sprinkled o'er,
+     Conducts the eye along his sinuous course Delighted.
+
+     There, fast rooted in their bank,
+     Stand, never overlooked, our favourite elms.
+     That screen the herdsman's solitary hut;
+     While far beyond, and overthwart the stream,
+     That, as with molten glass, inlays the vale,
+     The sloping land recedes into the clouds;
+     Displaying on its varied side the grace
+     Of hedgerow beauties numberless, square tower,
+     Tall spire, from which the sound of cheerful bells
+     Just undulates upon the listening ear;
+     Groves,  heathes and smoking villages remote."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      We are now at the upper corner of the Throckmorton Park. Pursuing our way,
+      we listen to the music of "nature inanimate," of rippling brook or sighing
+      wind, and of "nature animate," of "ten thousand warblers" that so soothed
+      the poet's soul. A dip in the walk from where the elms enclose the upper
+      park, and the chestnuts spread their shade, brings us into a grassy dell
+      where by "a rustic bridge" we cross to the opposite slope, reascend to the
+      "alcove," survey from the "speculative height" the pasture with its
+      "fleecy tenants," the "sunburnt hayfield," the "woodland scene," the
+      trees, each with its own hue, as so exquisitely depicted by the poet,
+      while Ouse in the distance "glitters in the sun." At length the great
+      avenue is reached.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "How airy and how light the graceful arch,
+     Yet awful as the consecrated roof
+     Re-echoing pious anthems! while beneath,
+     The chequered earth seems restless as a flood
+     Brushed by the wind.
+     So sportive is the light
+     Shot through the boughs, it dances as they dance,
+     Shadow and sunshine intermingling quick,
+     And darkening and enlightening, as the leaves
+     Play wanton, every moment, every spot.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0071" id="linkimage-0071"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9108.jpg" alt="9108 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9108.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Such were the scenes dearest to Cowper, and dear to many still for his
+      sake. T rue, they are not unlike others. A thousand scenes are as
+      beautiful, and many an avenue up and down in English parks is of a nobler
+      stateliness. Yet may this be visited with a special delight, for its own
+      sake and for Cowper's. It is something to be able to look with a poet's
+      eye, to have his thoughts and words so familiar to memory as to blend with
+      the current of our own, as if spontaneously. We learn anew how to observe,
+      and our emotions become almost unconsciously ennobled and refined.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is characteristic of Cowper's mind that scenery of a loftier and more
+      exciting order had a disquieting effect upon him. Of his journey to
+      Eastham, in Sussex, to visit his friend Hayley, he writes: "I indeed
+      myself was a little daunted by the tremendous height of the Sussex hills,
+      in comparison with which all that I had seen elsewhere are dwarfs. But I
+      only was alarmed; Mrs. Unwin had no such sensations, but was always
+      cheerful from the beginning of our expedition to the end of it." And
+      again: "The charms of the place, uncommon as they are, have not in the
+      least alienated my affections from Weston. The genius of that place, suits
+      me better; it has an air of snug concealment, in which a disposition like
+      mine feels peculiarly gratified, whereas here, I see from every window
+      woods like forests, and hills like mountains&mdash;a wildness, in short,
+      that rather increases my natural melancholy." A little while before, on
+      Mr. Newton's return from the glories of Cheddar, Cowper writes: "I would
+      that I could see some of the mountains which you have seen, especially
+      because Dr. Johnson has pronounced that no man is qualified to be a poet
+      who has never seen a mountain. But mountains I shall never see, unless
+      perhaps in a dream, or unless there are such in heaven. Nor those," the
+      poor, heart-stricken poet makes haste to add, "unless I receive twice as
+      much mercy as ever yet was shown to any man."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0072" id="linkimage-0072"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0109m.jpg" alt="0109m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0109.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The last sentence prepares us for East Dereham, with its sad associations.
+      But even from these we need not shrink. The homely Norfolk town brought to
+      the troubled soul deliverance. Few, it may be, would turn aside to visit
+      the place for its own sake; but the remembrance of the poet may well
+      attract. The house in which he died has been replaced by a Congregational
+      Church bearing his name&mdash;twin brother, so to speak, though with
+      scarcely the same appropriateness, to Bunyan Chapel in Bedford. But it is
+      in the church where he lies buried, and in the tomb raised to his memory,
+      that the true interest lies. Never was death more an angel of mercy than
+      to this darkly-shadowed spirit. We all know the words in which the most
+      gifted of poetesses, at "Cowper's Grave," has set the thoughts of many
+      Christian hearts to words that deserve to be immortal:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Like a sick child that knoweth not his mother while she blesses,
+     And drops upon his burning brow the coolness of her kisses:
+     That turns his fevered eyes around&mdash;<i>My mother! where's my mother?</i>
+     As if such tender words and looks could come from any other!
+     The fever gone, with leaps of heart he sees her bending o'er him,
+     Her face all pale from watchful love, the unweary love she bore him!
+     Thus woke the poet from the dream his life's long fever gave him,
+     Beneath those deep pathetic eyes, which closed in death to save him!
+     Thus? oh, not thus! no type of earth could image that awaking,
+     Wherein he scarcely heard the chant of seraphs round him breaking,
+     Or felt the new immortal throb of soul from body parted,
+     But fell those eyes alone, and knew. My Saviour! not deserted!"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0073" id="linkimage-0073"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0110m.jpg" alt="0110m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0110.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0074" id="linkimage-0074"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0112m.jpg" alt="0112m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0112.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0007" id="link2H_4_0007"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0075" id="linkimage-0075"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0113m.jpg" alt="0113m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0113.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">T</span>HE traveller into
+      Derbyshire, unaccustomed to the district, may not unnaturally inquire for
+      "the Peak," which he has been taught to consider one of the chief English
+      mountains, and the name of which has always suggested to him something
+      like a pyramid of rock,&mdash;an English Matterhorn. He will be soon
+      undeceived, and then may paradoxically declare the peculiarity of "the
+      Peak District" to be that there is no Peak! The range so called is a bulky
+      mass of millstone grit, rising irregularly from the limestone | formation
+      which occupies the southern part of Derbyshire, and extending in long
+      spurs, or arms, north and north-east into Yorkshire as far as Sheffield,
+      and west and south into Cheshire and Staffordshire. The plateau is covered
+      by wild moorland, clothed with fern, moss and heather, and broken up by
+      deep hollows and glens, through which streamlets descend, each through its
+      own belt of verdure, from the spongy morasses above, forming in their
+      course many a minute but picturesque waterfall. The pedestrian who
+      establishes himself in the little inn at Ashopton, will have the
+      opportunity of exploring many a breezy height and romantic glen; while, if
+      he has strength of limb and of lungs to make his way to Kinderscout, the
+      highest point of all, he will breathe, at the elevation of not quite two
+      thousand feet, as fresh and exhilarating an atmosphere as can be found
+      anywhere in these islands; the busy smoky city of Manchester being at a
+      distance, "as the crow flies," of little more than fifteen miles! It is no
+      wonder that a select company of hard-worked men, who have lighted on this
+      nook among the hills, having a taste for natural history, resort hither
+      year after year, finding a refreshment in the repeated visit equal at
+      least to that which their fellow-citizens enjoy, at greater cost, in the
+      terraces of Buxton, or on the gigantic slope of Matlock Bank.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Where the limestone emerges from under the mass of grit, the scenery
+      altogether changes. For roughly-rounded, dark-coloured rocks, covered with
+      ling and bracken, now appear narrow glens, bold escarped edges, cliffs
+      splintered into pinnacles and pierced by wonderful caves traversed by
+      hidden streams. Of these caves the "Peak Cavern" at Castleton is the
+      largest, that of the "Blue John Mine" the most beautiful, from its veins
+      of Derbyshire spar.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The tourist, however, who confines himself to the Peak District proper,
+      with its immediately outlying scenery, will have a very inadequate view of
+      the charms of Derbyshire. He can scarcely do better than begin at the
+      other extremity, ascending the Dove through its limestone valley as far as
+      Buxton, thence taking rail to Chapel-en-le-Frith, expatiating over the
+      Peak moorlands according to time and inclination, descending to the
+      limestone region again at Castleton, and following the Derwent in its
+      downward course to Ambergate, pausing in his way to visit Chatsworth and
+      Haddon Hall, and to stay awhile at Matlock.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Having thus planned our own journey, our starting-point was Ashbourne, a
+      quiet, pretty little town at the extremity of a branch railway. There was
+      not much in the town itself to detain us: we could only pay a hurried
+      visit to the church, whose beautiful spire, 212 feet high, is sometimes
+      called the Pride of the Peak. There are some striking monuments; and among
+      them one with an inscription of almost unequalled mournfulness. It is to
+      an only child, a daughter: "She was in form and intellect most exquisite.
+      The unfortunate parents ventured their all on this frail bark, and the
+      wreck was total." Never was plaint of sorrowing despair more touching. Let
+      us hope, both that the parents' darling was a lamb in the Good Shepherd's
+      fold, and that the sorrowing father and mother found at length that there
+      can be no total wreck to those whose treasure is in heaven!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A night's refreshing rest at the inn, where several nationalities oddly
+      combine to make up one complex sign&mdash;the fierce Saracen, the
+      thick-lipped negro, the English huntsman in his coat of Lincoln green!&mdash;and
+      we sallied forth on a glorious day of early autumn to make our first
+      acquaintance with Dovedale. Leaving the town at the extremity furthest
+      from the railway station, we found ourselves on a well-kept, undulating
+      road, skirted by fair pastures on either hand; the absence of cornfields
+      being a very marked feature in the landscape. Turning into pleasant
+      country lanes to the left, we soon reached the garden gate of a
+      finely-situated rural inn, the "Peveril ut' the Peak," whence a short cut
+      would have led us over the brow of the hill into Dovedale; but we were
+      anxious to visit Ilam, and therefore made a détour as far as the "Izaak
+      Walton," so well known to brothers of the "gentle craft." A little
+      farther, and we were in the identical Happy Valley of Rasselas, where we
+      found a charming little village, with schoolhouse and drinking-fountain,
+      park and hall and church, and every cottage a picture.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0076" id="linkimage-0076"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0116m.jpg" alt="0116m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0116.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Two little rivers meet here, one of them the Manifold, the other and
+      larger the Dove; and after a hurried view of the lovely vale, we lost no
+      time in making our way to the entrance of the far-famed Dale. As most of
+      our readers will know, the Dove divides Staffordshire from Derbyshire: we
+      took the Derbyshire side, entering at a little gate on the river bank, and
+      leisurely and with many a pause pursued a walk with which surely in
+      England there are few to compare. The river is a shallow, sparkling
+      stream, with many a pool dear to the angler, and hurrying down, babbling
+      over pebbles, and broken in its course by many a tiny waterfall. On both
+      sides rise tall limestone cliffs, splintered into countless fantastic
+      forms&mdash;rocky walls, towers, and pinnacles, and in one place a natural
+      archway near the summit, leading to the uplands beyond. And all up the
+      sloping sides, and wherever root-hold could be obtained on pinnacle and
+      crag, were clustered shrubs and trees of every shade of foliage, with the
+      first touch of autumn to heighten the exquisite variety by tints which as
+      yet suggested only afar off the thought of decay. The solitude of the
+      scene served but to enhance its loveliness. For that road by the river
+      side is no broad well-beaten track. No vehicle can pass, and even the
+      pedestrian has sometimes to pick his way with difficulty. The stillness,
+      on the day of our visit, was unbroken save for the murmur of the water,
+      the twitter of the birds, and the rustling of the branches in the gentle
+      breeze. The blue sky overhead, and the sunlight casting shadows upon the
+      cliffs and the stream, completed the picture; and if the memory of Izaak
+      Walton and Charles Cotton haunted their favourite stream, it so happened
+      that we encountered none of their disciples.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Many travellers leave the glen at Mill Dale, where a pleasant country lane
+      to the right enables them to gain the high road between Ashbourne and
+      Buxton. Time and strength permitting, however, we would strongly advise
+      the tourist to make his way by the river banks to Hartington, passing
+      through Beresford Dale, where at Pike Pool, represented in the
+      frontispiece to this chapter, all the beauties of the Dove Valley are
+      concentrated at one view. A limestone obelisk stands in the middle of the
+      river, with a background of rich foliage, just touched, at the time of our
+      visit, with autumnal hues, while the clear water eddied and sparkled
+      around its base. This pool was the favourite resort of Walton and his
+      friend Cotton. Many allusions to the spot will be found in <i>The Complete
+      Angler</i>; and the comfortable inn at Hartington, reached from Beresford
+      Dale by a walk for about a mile through pleasant meadows, bears Charles
+      Cotton's name.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At Hartington, the high road to Buxton may be taken; or, far better, the
+      traveller may make his way to the famous watering-place by the plateau
+      which divides the valley of the Dove from that of its tributary Manifold;
+      he will then descend to the former valley near Longnor, and thence may
+      climb to Axe Edge, a great outlying southerly branch or spur of the
+      gritstone, from which the Dove has its rise. Parting with this lovely
+      river at its very fountain-head, we find it difficult to believe that so
+      much beauty and even grandeur can have been included in the twenty miles'
+      course of a little English stream, and are ready to endorse the
+      enthusiastic tribute of Cotton:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "The rapid Garonne and the winding Seine
+     Are both too mean.
+
+     Beloved Dove, with thee
+     To claim priority:
+
+     Nay, Thame and Isis, when conjoined, submit
+     And lay their trophies at thy silver feet."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0077" id="linkimage-0077"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0118m.jpg" alt="0118m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0118.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      At Buxton, easily reached from Axe Edge, we found every variety of
+      excursion and other enjoyments open to us, "for a consideration." The
+      Derbyshire dales that may be easily explored from this point are very
+      fine; and the whole of the Peak is open to the tourist. We could give,
+      however, but a hurried glance to these manifold beauties, being bent upon
+      descending the Derwent in some such leisurely fashion as that in which we
+      had ascended the Dove. We had, indeed, the railway now to facilitate the
+      latter half of our journey&mdash;no slight matter! and yet this had the
+      effect of bringing multitudes of travellers like ourselves, so that the
+      end of the Derbyshire tour was taken in company with a crowd. For a time,
+      however, we were comparatively alone to Castleton, by Mam Tor, the
+      wonderful "Shivering Mountain," where the sandstone and mountain limestone
+      meet;&mdash;so called from the loose shale which is constantly descending
+      its side, and which, in popular belief, does not diminish the mountain's
+      bulk: thence down through the Winnyats or Windgates, a picturesque pass
+      between lofty cliffs, taking its name from the winds which are said to
+      rage almost ceaselessly through the narrow defile, although at the time of
+      our visit the air was calm, while the lights and shadows of a perfect
+      autumn day beautified the grey limestone crags.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0078" id="linkimage-0078"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0119m.jpg" alt="0119m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0119.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The ruins of Peveril's Castle, and the gloomy caves of Castleton, of
+      course were visited. Then began the journey down the Derwent, embracing
+      pretty Hather-sage, with its ancient camps, tumuli, and other remains
+      whose origin can only be conjectured. Here is the traditionary grave of
+      Robin Hood's gigantic comrade, "Little John." A "Gospel Stone" in this
+      village, once used as a pulpit, perpetuates the memory of the open-air
+      harvest and thanksgiving services of past generations; while in the
+      village of Eyam, three or four miles lower down, the "Pulpit Rock," in a
+      natural dell still called a "church," brings to mind the heroism of a
+      devoted pastor, who during the plague of 1665, when it would have been
+      dangerous to meet in any building, daily assembled his parishioners in
+      this place to pray with them, to teach and to console.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0079" id="linkimage-0079"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9120.jpg" alt="9120 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9120.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The traveller will not regret the slight détour from the road by the river
+      to visit this most interesting spot; and he may return to the Derwent by
+      Middleton Dale, another magnificent pass through limestone cliffs. Hence
+      he will soon reach Edensor, the "model village," and Chatsworth, "the
+      Palace of the Peak." The splendours of the park and mansion are so
+      familiar to thousands,&mdash;to whom in fact "the Peak of Derbyshire" is a
+      name suggestive only of Chatsworth and Haddon Hall,&mdash;that we need
+      attempt no description here. The visitor may follow his own bent, whether
+      to wander in the stately park, or to join the hourly procession along the
+      silken-roped avenue through the corridors and apartments of the Hall, with
+      due admiration of the pictures, the statuary and the wonderful carving;
+      thence passing out into the conservatory and the gardens, where nature has
+      done so much, and art so much more. Truly days at Chatsworth are among the
+      bright days of life, especially if there be time and opportunity also to
+      visit Haddon Hall, that almost unique specimen of an old baronial English
+      home, empty and dismantled now, but carefully preserved and beautiful for
+      situation, upon the Derbyshire Wye, which here comes down from its own
+      limestone glens and dales through the pretty town of Bakewell, to unite at
+      Rowsley with the Derwent.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      At this junction, too, the traveller comes upon the railway, and will be
+      tempted to pass only too rapidly by the beauties of the Derwent Valley
+      between Rowsley and Ambergate. We can but assure him that he will lose
+      much by so doing; that Darley Dale and Moor are very beautiful, and that
+      the tourist who rushes on to Matlock Bath without staying to climb Matlock
+      Bank does an injustice to Derbyshire scenery: while if he be in pursuit of
+      health, he can find no better resting-place than at the renowned |
+      hydropathic establishments which occupy the heights.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0080" id="linkimage-0080"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0121m.jpg" alt="0121m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0121.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Still, most who are in search of the picturesque will prefer to seek it at
+      Matlock Bath, where indeed they will not be left to discover it for
+      themselves. In this famous spot the beauties of nature are all catalogued,
+      ticketed, and forced on the attention by signboards and handbills. Here is
+      the path to "the beautiful scenery" (admission so much); there "the
+      Romantic Rocks" (again a fee); there the ferry to "the Lovers' Walk," a
+      charming path by the river-side, overshadowed by trees, and so on.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0081" id="linkimage-0081"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0123m.jpg" alt="0123m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0123.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Petrifying wells offer their rival attractions, and caves in the limestone
+      are repeatedly illuminated during the season for the delight of
+      excursionists. The market for fossils, spar, photographs, ferns, and all
+      the wonderful things that nobody buys except at watering-places, is brisk
+      and incessant. But when we have added to all this that the heights are
+      truly magnificent, the woods and river very charming, and the arrangements
+      of the hotels most homelike and satisfactory, it will not be wondered at
+      that the balance of pleasure remained largely in favour of Matlock.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0082" id="linkimage-0082"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0124m.jpg" alt="0124m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0124.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      It would be certainly pleasanter to discover for one's self that here is
+      "the Switzerland of England," than to have the fact thrust upon attention
+      by placards at every turn; but perhaps there are those to whom the
+      information thus afforded is welcome, while the enormous highly-coloured
+      pictures of valley, dale and crag which adorn every railway station on the
+      line, no doubt perform their part in attracting and instructing visitors.
+      They need certainly be at no loss to occupy their time to advantage,
+      whether their stay be longer or shorter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0083" id="linkimage-0083"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0125m.jpg" alt="0125m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0125.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Everything is made easy for them. To all the noblest points of view, easy
+      paths have been constructed: the fatigue of mountain-climbing is reduced
+      to a minimum; and certainly the landscapes disclosed even from a moderate
+      elevation by the judicious pruning and removal of intercepting foliage,
+      are such as to repay most richly the moderate effort requisite for the
+      ascent. Lord Byron writes, that there are views in Derbyshire "as noble as
+      in Greece or Switzerland." He was probably thinking of the prospect from
+      Masson, from which the whole valley, with its boundary of tors, or
+      limestone cliffs, is outspread before the observer, while the river
+      sparkles beneath, reflecting masses of foliage, with depths of heavenly
+      blue between; and beyond the scarred and broken ramparts of the glen,
+      purple moorlands stretch away to the high and curving line of the horizon.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The traveller southward, who has accompanied us thus far, if yet unsated
+      with beauty, will be wise in taking the road from Matlock to Cromford, the
+      next station, instead of proceeding by railway. The short walk or drive
+      between the limestone cliffs, although the great majority of passengers
+      pass it by unnoticed, is really, for its length, as magnificent as almost
+      any of the dales in the higher part of the country. At Cromford there is
+      the stately mansion of the Arkwrights, and a little beyond, on the other
+      side of the railway, is Lea Hurst, the home of Miss Florence Nightingale,
+      a name that will be gratefully enshrined in the memories of the English
+      people, even when war shall be no more. From this spot the valley
+      gradually broadens, still richly-wooded up the heights, with fair meadows
+      on the river banks. And so we reach Ambergate, where we re-enter the busy
+      world, bearing with us ineffaceable memories of the beauties and the
+      wonders of "the Peak."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0084" id="linkimage-0084"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0126m.jpg" alt="0126m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0126.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0085" id="linkimage-0085"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0128m.jpg" alt="0128m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0128.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0008" id="link2H_4_0008"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      WESTWARD HO!
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0086" id="linkimage-0086"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0129m.jpg" alt="0129m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0129.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Almost every place of popular resort has its "season," when its charms are
+      supposed to be at their highest, and the annual migration of visitors sets
+      in. The period is not always determined by climate or calendar; and such
+      is the caprice of fashion, that many a lovely spot is left well-nigh
+      solitary during the weeks of its full perfection, the crowd beginning to
+      gather when the beauties of the place are on the wane. Tastes will
+      undoubtedly differ as to the most favourable time to visit one or another
+      beautiful scene; but none, we should imagine, will dispute our opinion
+      that the best season for travel in the west of England is in the early
+      spring. We leave the north, with patches of snow yet on the hills, and the
+      first leaflets struggling in vain to unfold themselves on the blackened
+      branches; or, if we hail from the metropolis, we gladly turn our backs on
+      wind-swept streets and bleak suburban roads, to find ourselves in two or
+      three hours speeding beneath soft sunshine, between far-extending
+      orchards, in all the loveliness of their delicate bloom, while the grass
+      is of a richer tint, the blue sky, dappled with fleecy clouds, of a more
+      exquisite purity, and instead of the slowly-relaxing grasp of winter, the
+      promise of summer already thrills the air. "The flowers appear on the
+      earth; the time of the singing of birds is come, and the voice of the
+      turtle is heard in our land."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But whither shall we direct our steps? It is the perfection of comfort in
+      travelling to have time at command. We need be in no haste to leave the
+      apple-blossomy valleys of Somersetshire, even for the woods and cliffs of
+      Devon; and if the tourist would visit a spot which, in its own way, is
+      unique in England, let him turn aside, as we did, soon after leaving
+      Bristol, to a rift in the Mendip Hills, and make his way through the pass
+      between the Cheddar Cliffs. A more majestic scene it would be difficult to
+      find. For actual magnitude is only one element of sublimity. The biggest
+      mountain is not always the grandest, just as the finest landscape is not
+      always that which embraces the greatest number of square miles. The
+      Himalayas are said to be far less imposing than the Alps. The width of the
+      valleys, the more gradual slope of the mountains, and the greater distance
+      from the eye, detract from their apparent height as compared with Mont
+      Blanc or the Matterhorn. This little gorge of the Mendips affords a
+      striking illustration of the same kind. The cliffs are less than five
+      hundred feet high; yet under certain conditions of atmosphere we have had
+      as deep a sense of sublimity, and under others as keen a sense of beauty
+      here, as in districts where the altitude is to be reckoned by thousands of
+      feet instead of hundreds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The approach to Cheddar is by a short railway from Yatton, on the Bristol
+      and Exeter line, or by the road, which winds through a rich valley. The
+      hills on either side are green to their very summits, from which fine
+      views may be gained of the Bristol Channel, near Clevedon and Weston. One
+      of them, Dolbury, is crowned by a remarkably fine British camp, enclosing
+      within its ample area a Roman stronghold. Wrington, the birthplace of John
+      Locke, is passed. Glastonbury Tor comes into view, and remains a
+      conspicuous object for the rest of the journey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Immediately behind the village of Cheddar rises the bare grey ridge of the
+      Mendips. Cut sheer through it from summit to base is an extraordinary
+      cleft. The road which winds along the bottom of the ravine is in some
+      places only wide enough to allow two vehicles to pass abreast. On the
+      right-hand side a perpendicular wall of rock rises to the height of about
+      four hundred and thirty feet. Its surface is broken by enormous
+      buttresses, like the towers of some Titanic castle, surmounted by spires
+      and pinnacles, whose light airy grace contrasts finely with the massive
+      walls on which they rest. Down the face of the cliff long festoons of ivy
+      and creeping plants wave to and fro. The scanty soil on the ledges and in
+      the fissures is bright with wild flowers. The yew and mountain ash,
+      dwarfed into mere shrubs, seem to cling with a precarious foothold to the
+      face of the rock. Far above us innumerable jackdaws and crows chatter
+      noisily, and hawks, with which the district abounds, soar across the
+      narrow strip of sky overhead. The opposite side of the ravine is less
+      precipitous, though even here it is steep enough to task the energies of
+      the climber, and grand masses of rock stand out from the hill-side.
+      Conspicuous amongst these is the Lion Rock, so called from its
+      extraordinary resemblance to a crouching lion. This district abounds in
+      caverns, many of them of great extent and beauty, which will well repay a
+      visit. Local tradition affirms that one reaches as far as Wookey Hole, a
+      distance of ten miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0087" id="linkimage-0087"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8131.jpg" alt="8131 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8131.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The devoted and self-denying efforts of Mrs. Hannah More must not be
+      forgotten in connection with Cheddar. When residing at Barley Wood, a few
+      miles distant, about the end of the last century, she was dismayed at the
+      ignorance and immorality of the villagers, who were "living like the
+      brutes that perish," and indulging in gross vices. Scarcely even in the
+      heart of Africa could more complete heathenism be found. As yet Sunday
+      Schools, Tract Societies and all the means of usefulness, now so common,
+      had no existence.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Her endeavours for the amelioration of the people were as experiments to
+      be tried single-handed, under the most unpromising circumstances, and in
+      the face of the most violent hostility and abuse.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Yet she did not shrink from the arduous duty which lay before her. A house
+      was taken, a pious teacher appointed, and the school was opened. Gradually
+      enemies were conciliated, as the happy effects of Christian teaching
+      became apparent. Many of the children learned to know and love the
+      Saviour. The influence spread from the children to the parents, and by the
+      blessing of God the experiment, which at first seemed so hopeless, was
+      crowned with a success beyond her utmost expectations. It was in
+      connection with her evangelistic work at Cheddar that she wrote her first
+      tract, <i>Village Politics, by Will Chip</i>. This led to the preparation
+      of her <i>Cheap Repository Tracts</i>, to be followed in due time by the
+      establishment of the Religious Tract Society, whose operations now extend
+      throughout the whole world. On the completion of the series, Mrs. More
+      wrote in her journal: "Bless the Lord, O my soul, that I have been spared
+      to accomplish this work. Do Thou, O Lord, bless and prosper it to the good
+      of many; and if it do good, may I give Thee the glory, and take to myself
+      the shame of its defects. I have devoted three years to the work. Two
+      millions of these tracts have been disposed of during the first year! God
+      works by weak instruments, to show that the glory is all His own."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Cheddar the traveller may either continue his journey by way of
+      Wells, or may return at once to the main line, passing near the coast of
+      the Bristol Channel, with a wide alluvial plain at his left, once covered
+      by an arm of the sea, with islands, as Brent Tor and others, emerging from
+      the waters, and reaching as far as Glastonbury or Avalon&mdash;"apple-island,"
+      famed in legend and song.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0088" id="linkimage-0088"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0132m.jpg" alt="0132m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0132.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      A little further, and the marshy plain of the Parret stretches away in one
+      direction to Sedgemoor, scene of the "last battle fought on English
+      ground," * that in which the ill-fated Duke of Monmouth suffered
+      irretrievable defeat, and in another, to Athelney, the place of King
+      Alfred's retreat and noble rally against the Danes. In memory of the
+      stories that charmed our childhood, we could do no otherwise than take the
+      branch line at Durston, whence a few minutes' run places us in the marshy
+      unpicturesque scene so memorable in English story. The whole neighbourhood
+      was evidently once covered with woods and morasses; good drainage has made
+      it fertile now, but it must be confessed that it must depend for all its
+      attractiveness on its associations. On or near the traditional site of the
+      "neatherd's cottage," an unpretending stone pillar with a lengthy
+      inscription preserves the memory of Alfred's sojourn.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Macaulay. The date was July 6, 1685
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Resuming the journey westward, we soon discern the towers of the Taunton
+      churches, and may find a welcome night's rest in this bright and pretty
+      town; or turning again off the main line, may pass north west, by a route
+      full of interest, to the Ouantock Hills. On our way we pass Combe Florey,
+      famous as the residence for a time of Sydney Smith, and as the scene of
+      some of the most characteristic stories of his life. But we must not
+      linger in the valley: at every point the wooded hill-slopes tempt us to
+      climb upwards among shady groves of beech, over turf thick with primroses
+      and bluebells, then out upon the furzy heights. It hardly matters which
+      path we take, whether up Cothelstone, whence the view is perhaps most
+      magnificent, or Will's Neck, highest point of all, or Hurley Beacon. From
+      hilltop to hill-top we make our way, descending into mossy glens, where
+      the hill stream trickles down in miniature waterfalls, or striking down
+      some deep wooded combe, where the houses of a village nestle among the
+      trees, and the spacious church tells of a time when the inhabitants far
+      out-numbered the present scanty population. In the valley below, to the
+      north-east, we descry the village of Nether Stowey, for some time the
+      residence of Coleridge, and further to the north, at the foot of one of
+      the loveliest of wooded combes, is Alfoxton, which was at the same time
+      the home of Wordsworth. The two friends have told us how they used to meet
+      and discuss high themes in many a charming stroll, their neighbours much
+      wondering the while, and the government of the day suspecting their
+      advanced opinions. The end was that they had to leave, not before they had
+      made imperishable record of the beauties of the place. Thus Wordsworth
+      writes to Coleridge, in the Prelude:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+                         "Beloved Friend!
+     When looking back, thou seest in clearer view
+     Than any liveliest sights of yesterday
+     That summer, under whose indulgent skies
+     Upon smooth Quantock's airy ridge we roved
+     Unchecked, or loitered 'mid her sylvan combes:
+     Thou in bewitching words, with happy hearts
+     Midst chaint the vision of that ancient man;
+     The bright-eyed Mariner, and rueful woes
+     Didst utter of the Lady Christabel."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      Coleridge, in a note to the <i>Ancient Mariner</i>, says, "It was on a
+      delightful walk from Nether Stowey to Dulverton, with Wordsworth and his
+      sister, in the autumn of 1797, that this poem was planned and in part
+      composed."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great hilly range to the west, in full view across the valley from the
+      Ouantocks, is an outlying rampart of Exmoor, and the brown peak in the
+      distance is Dunkery Beacon, the highest point in Somersetshire. Our road
+      leads between these heights and the sea, by Dunster, with its great ivied
+      castle overhanging the quaint feudal-looking little town, and Minehead, a
+      cheerful unpretending watering-place, to Porlock, where the ascent of what
+      the country people call a "terràble long hill," by a zigzag moorland road,
+      leads to a height from which, on looking back, we have a prospect of
+      surpassing grandeur. Let us gaze our fill: if the day be fine, and the
+      atmosphere clear, we shall see nothing nobler in the west of England. To
+      the south the huge masses of Dunkery, brown with heather, rise from a
+      foreground of woods and glens; below, to the east, lies a fair valley,
+      surrounded with hills of every picturesque variety in form, prominent
+      among which is the rugged side of Bossington Beacon. Towards the
+      south-east, heights on heights arise, some richly wooded, others majestic
+      in their bareness; while to the north and north-east stretches the Bristol
+      Channel, with the Welsh mountains dimly seen beyond.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0089" id="linkimage-0089"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0134m.jpg" alt="0134m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0134.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Then we go southwards over a reach of wild moorland, and come upon the
+      indescribable loveliness of Lynmouth and Lynton. Far beyond railways,
+      accessible only by long walking or driving over hilly roads, or by small
+      boats from steamers on their way up and down the Channel, this fair spot
+      can never attract the crowd; but those who have wandered by its streams,
+      or climbed its heights, are singularly unanimous in pronouncing it the
+      most charming spot in England. Lynmouth is in the valley, on the shore;
+      Lynton on the height. The name is derived from the <i>lyns</i>, or
+      torrents, which descend separately, each through a wooded gorge or combe,
+      until they meet beside the sea. Great mossy rocks everywhere break the
+      course of the torrents, and the luxuriant foliage which lines the banks,
+      the ferns and flowers, with the overhanging trees, combine to make a
+      succession of perfect pictures.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0090" id="linkimage-0090"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0135m.jpg" alt="0135m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0135.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The traveller will, of course, go up Lyndale, the valley of the East Lyn,
+      as far as Watersmeet, and will not omit to explore the quieter, more
+      luxuriant, though less magnificent West Lyn. He will climb to the summit
+      of Lyn Cliff, and will survey at ease the prospect from the summer-house;
+      and will not omit the extraordinary Valley of the Rocks, reached by a
+      grand walk along the face of the cliff, which overhangs the sea to the
+      west of Lynton. At a break in this path he suddenly comes to a gigantic
+      gateway, formed of two rocky pyramids, and enters upon a scene which, to
+      his first view, appears strewn with the fragments of some earlier world.
+      "Imagine," says Southey, "a narrow vale between two ridges of hills,
+      somewhat steep: the southern hill turfed; the vale, which runs from east
+      to west, covered with huge stones, and fragments of stone among the fern
+      that fills it; the northern ridge completely bare, excoriated of all turf
+      and all soil, the very bones and skeleton of the earth; rock reclining
+      upon rock, stone piled upon stone, a huge terrific mass. A palace of the
+      pre-historic kings, a city of the Anakim, must have appeared so shapeless,
+      and yet so like the ruins of what had been shaped after the waters of the
+      flood subsided.... I never felt the sublimity of solitude before."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The drive from Lynton to Barnstaple, though not long, being, we believe,
+      somewhat under twenty miles, brought to us a crowd of half-forgotten
+      associations of early days when coach-travelling was the chief means of
+      locomotion. The coach itself was of the old build, spick and span in its
+      neatness; the coachman was of old-fashioned ways; the four sleek horses
+      were no mere omnibus hacks, but as they warmed to their work up and down
+      hill, showed a mettle akin to that of roadsters in days long ago. Or
+      perhaps we had only imagined until now that the old breed had
+      deteriorated! The villages on the way had no sign of "Station" or "Station
+      Hotel" about them; children ran from the cottage doors to shout after the
+      coach, or to bring primroses and violets to the passengers; rustics
+      gathered for a chat where the coachman pulled up, as he did tolerably
+      often, for time seemed but a small object in that old-world region. And
+      all around was outspread a landscape of rich, ever-changing loveliness,
+      ruddy in soil, rich in verdure, as at one time we descended into lanes
+      half-embowered by the already luxuriant hedgerows, and at another emerged
+      on open moorland swept by soft breezes from the sea, and engirdled by the
+      hazy forms of distant hills. At length the estuary of the Taw came into
+      view, the houses of Barnstaple appeared, the coach drove into the station
+      yard, and we were in the world again.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another route might have been taken from Lynton to Ilfracombe, by way of
+      Combe Martin, with its fine and rocky bay; but we were anxious to reach
+      less crowded and familiar spots than the famous North Devon
+      watering-place, though this also is in its way delightful. We must,
+      however, see one or two further points on the coast before striking inland
+      again; and accordingly, took up our night's quarters at Bideford, famed
+      for the length of its bridge, and the steepness of its streets. Emerging
+      early in the morning from the highest part of the town, we made our way to
+      Westward Ho! that magnificent possibility, whose stately mansions and
+      hotels, broad quays and pier, surrounded by vessels from all parts, with
+      its broad level plain by the sea and noble background of wooded hills, had
+      so often captivated us&mdash;in railway-station waiting-rooms. We found it
+      all there, except the mansions, the quays, and the ships! The bay is
+      glorious, the plain upon the shore stretches far and wide,&mdash;to the
+      satisfaction of golfers, for whose favourite game no spot can be better
+      adapted: there is a great pebble-ridge, a natural breakwater two miles
+      long and fifty feet wide, composed of rounded pebbles of carboniferous
+      "grit;" the background of wooded cliffs is magnificent, while a lonely
+      pier, one commodious hotel, a bath-house on a splendid scale, some rows of
+      villas, lodging-houses, and one or two educational establishments give
+      promise of prosperity to come. A great sanatorium or hydropathic
+      institution, to be called "the Kingsley," after the gifted man who has set
+      the stamp of his genius on this whole neighbourhood, has been projected;
+      and certainly for purposes of health as well as enjoyment, no place could
+      be better adapted than the woodland terraces overlooking this most
+      beautiful bay.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The mention of Charles Kingsley reminds us of Clovelly, his early home,
+      and to the last his favourite spot. Early in the morning we started for
+      this unique Devonshire village, with high expectations, and under the
+      auspices of the British Government, as our chosen vehicle was the
+      "mail-cart," in the shape of a very comfortable waggonette filled with
+      pleasant chatty passengers, all the livelier, perhaps, from the
+      good-humoured sense of merit which early-rising is apt to engender. The
+      road was not particularly striking, save for glimpses of the channel seen
+      through the light morning haze: the breath of spring was in the air, and
+      when we alighted at the "Hobby" gate, we were fully prepared for the three
+      miles' walk by which our breakfast was yet to be earned. The path, in
+      reality a broad, well-kept drive, is carried along the face of the cliff,
+      which shelves gradually, covered thickly with trees and brushwood, to the
+      shore, while the bank towers above, soft with moss and beautiful with
+      flowers. The cliff curves in and out irregularly; broken in one or two
+      places by deep glens, over which the road is carried by rustic bridges.
+      Long shadows lay, that morning, across the path; above and below, the
+      tender budding foliage clothed the dark branches of oak and elm, hazel and
+      beech, in every variety of shade; the air was musical with birds, and,
+      stirred by the gentle morning breeze and the whisper of the boughs,
+      blended with the distant murmur of the sea. It was a walk to be
+      remembered. At length, at a turning of the road, Clovelly came into sight,
+      about a mile distant&mdash;a seemingly confused heap of houses emerging on
+      all sides from thick woodland, and slanting steeply down to a stone pier
+      jutting out into a little bay. At the end of the Hobby walk, the summit of
+      the village was gained, and we were soon descending its curious steep
+      street, not without longing looks at the quaint little lodging-houses, all
+      untenanted as yet.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0091" id="linkimage-0091"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8139.jpg" alt="8139 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8139.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Clovelly is a place to linger in, and to dream! The practical need of the
+      hour, however, was breakfast, during the preparation of which meal it was
+      pleasant to sit in the hotel balcony, and look out upon the bay, with its
+      lines of light and shadow, and the long outline of Lundy Island showing
+      clear in the distance; for now the morning mists had lifted, and the
+      brightness of spring was over sea and land. A walk of marvellous beauty
+      followed, into the park of Clovelly Court, over springy turf, through
+      woodlands budding into leaf, and over a stretch of rugged wilderness,
+      preserved with some art in its primitive simplicity. Thence, by a winding
+      pathway, or over a steep grassy slope, the highest point may be reached, a
+      noble cliff, called from some old local story Gallantry Bower. A little
+      summer-house, nestling in the cliff-side, commands a grand range of
+      cliffs, with their curved, contorted strata, peculiar to the carboniferous
+      formation, while many a jutting or broken crag gives a castellated aspect
+      to this magnificent rampart of the coast. Inland, the scene is full of
+      beauties of hill and glen, in almost measureless variety; but we could not
+      linger to survey them all; for our way lay in another direction, before we
+      could feast again on the beauties of cliff and sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Hartland Point, a little farther on, is the true "Land's End" of
+      Devonshire, the terminating promontory of Bideford Bay, a tongue of grassy
+      land, not more than thirty or forty feet wide, at the summit of a
+      tremendous precipice on either side, pointing, it is said, to a similar
+      projection on the opposite Welsh coast, like twin pillars of Hercules, *
+      guarding the estuary of the Severn.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Ptolemy, the geographer (2nd cent.), is supposed to have
+     referred to Hartland Point, as the "Promontory of Hercules."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0092" id="linkimage-0092"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9140.jpg" alt="9140 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9140.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      It would now have been easy to visit Bude Haven, and so to travel south
+      and south-west along the cliffs which fringe the Atlantic, but our present
+      plan was to strike inland to Dartmoor. The little town of Oke-hampton was
+      therefore our first destination, reached by a somewhat dull route,&mdash;whichever
+      road may be taken,&mdash;but, when gained, most interesting. The town lies
+      in a valley, watered by a swift romantic river which, at one point,
+      sweeping round a wooded hill, crowned by the ruins of an old castle, forms
+      as lovely a picture as anything of the kind in England. Kingsley abuses
+      Okehampton, unjustly, we think: but, whatever may be thought of the town
+      and its immediate neighbourhood, there can be no doubt as to the wonderful
+      interest of the excursions that may be taken from it as a centre. From the
+      castle hill, as from other points in the town, the chief object that
+      arrests the eye is the vast brown sweep of rising ground, suggestive of
+      mysterious desolation beyond, which we know to be the boundary of
+      Dartmoor. Ascending, we find ourselves at first on pleasant, breezy,
+      though treeless heights, but keep to beaten paths, and pursue our onward
+      journey. At length the moorland track over which we have passed seems to
+      rise behind us and shut out the world; and as we gaze around, we feel that
+      all pictures which we had framed to ourselves of wild deserted solitudes
+      are surpassed. "Like the fragments of an earlier world," is the comparison
+      that naturally rises to the lips. We are not unfamiliar with moorland
+      scenery&mdash;with Rombald's Moor, for instance, in Yorkshire, beautiful
+      in its variety of colour, from the tender green and softening greys and
+      browns of spring, to the purple heathery splendours of the autumn, while
+      the song of lark and linnet overhead, or the plaintive cry of the lapwing,
+      gives animation to the scene. But at Dartmoor is a new experience of
+      desolation. The stupendous mass of granite which here crops up from hidden
+      depths is covered on its broken surface with thick peat, in whose depths
+      the blackened trunks of trees occasionally give evidence of a time when
+      the range was clothed with wood, but which, for the most part, bears only
+      coarse grass and moss, with heather and whortleberry in the most favoured
+      localities. Broad spaces are covered by morass and bog, dangerous to the
+      unaccustomed pedestrian. Scanty streams break from the heights, and hurry
+      in all directions down to the valley, swollen to wild fury after a storm.
+      The "tor," or shapeless masses of rock, which stand out from the peaty
+      surface in all directions, are but, as it were, the jagged projections
+      from the interior rock-skeleton. Some may be readily ascended; Yes Tor
+      (probably East Tor, pronounced Devonshire fashion) being the highest, and
+      on many accounts the best worth climbing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0093" id="linkimage-0093"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0141m.jpg" alt="0141m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0141.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The prospect of the moor from this or any other commanding point can only
+      be described as awful in its grim, monotonous, silent desolation, the only
+      beauty being that of swelling distant outline, or frequently that of
+      colour, when the atmosphere is clear between the frequent showers, and the
+      rays of the sun light up the heather and the moss, diversifying the dark
+      shadows of the tors with the various hues of green, with the ruddy gleam
+      of withered fern, and rushes in many a morass. But let not the traveller
+      be too hopeful of sunshine and clear air! For as the local rhyme says:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     The south wind blows, and brings wet weather;
+     The north gives wet and cold together;
+     The west wind comes brimful of rain,
+     The east wind drives it back again.
+     Then, if the sun in red should set,
+     We know the morrow must be wet;
+     And if the eve is clad in grey,
+     The next is sure a rainy day."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0094" id="linkimage-0094"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9142.jpg" alt="9142 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9142.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Still, the slopes by which Dartmoor descends to the lowlands around are
+      beautiful. In fact, the mighty granite mass is girdled by an investiture
+      of fair glens and smiling villages, which make the circuit of it a
+      succession of some of the brightest pictures that England can anywhere
+      present in the same compass. The drive from Oke-hampton to Chagford, or to
+      Moreton Hampstead, for instance, is of wonderful charm. Near the former
+      village, the river Teign descends over rocks and boulders in a
+      richly-wooded glen, as beautiful in parts as Dovedale.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0095" id="linkimage-0095"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8142.jpg" alt="8142 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8142.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The rivers, indeed, which come down on all sides from Dartmoor, are the
+      glory of Devonshire. Beside the Teign, there is the Dart itself, one
+      head-stream of which rises near the well-known prison at Prince Town, with
+      the Taw, Tavy, Avon, Erme, Plym, and streamlets innumerable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Travellers in favourable weather will do well to cross Dartmoor by the
+      coach-road, from Moreton Hampstead to Tavistock, past the big, gloomy
+      prison, appropriately placed in the very wildest and most desolate part of
+      the whole region. Or, as we did, making Okehampton their headquarters,
+      they may pass on by train by way of Lidford. The railway is carried in
+      places at a great height, on the open edge of the moor, which it curiously
+      fringes: it seems essentially a holiday line; there is no hurry, and the
+      traveller, as he passes along, may leisurely survey the frowning heights
+      above, or the fair valley below, according to his choice.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0096" id="linkimage-0096"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0143m.jpg" alt="0143m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0143.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Lidford station being reached, we left the train, and found ourselves in
+      an unfinished-looking spot, with little outwardly to attract. Having,
+      however, received directions how to proceed, we crossed a farmyard, where
+      some cattle with stupendous horns looked and lowed at us in a manner
+      trying to the nerves, then, emerging near a river bank, made our way for
+      less than a mile up the stream, on a grassy path beneath overhanging
+      woods, when at a sudden turn up a glen that opened to the main stream, the
+      gleam of waters caught the eye, at the first glance like some tall spirit
+      of the dell, glimmering through the foliage that enshrouded it. A more
+      beautiful cascade is hardly to be seen in England, when Dartmoor has had
+      abundance of rain. At other times they say a friendly miller can turn on a
+      supply of water, else thriftily economised for his needs. Happily, no such
+      artificial arrangement was needful on the occasion of our visit; and we
+      remained long admiring the lovely picture.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0097" id="linkimage-0097"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0144m.jpg" alt="0144m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0144.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Retracing our steps, we climbed to the village, crossing on our way a
+      commonplace-looking bridge, of a single arch, at a clip in the road, with
+      the sound of a great rush of waters beneath.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0098" id="linkimage-0098"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0145m.jpg" alt="0145m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0145.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      We looked over the parapet, but could discern nothing, owing to the mass
+      of thick shrubs and foliage which overarched the stream, and made our way
+      uphill to the village. Here the traveller is directed to the churchyard,
+      to see a curious epitaph on a watchmaker, in which some rather obvious
+      allusions to human life are borrowed from his craft. Students of mortuary
+      inscriptions are thankful often for small mercies in the way of wit, and
+      are not always careful to note where the humour degenerates into
+      irreverence or worse. We were more sadly interested in the contrast, which
+      we have also observed in other churchyards, between the old style and the
+      new; the simple piety of our fathers and the mimic popery of some of their
+      descendants. Both are very observable at Lidford. One ancient tombstone
+      bore some pathetic lines, beginning,&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Praise to our God, whose faithful love
+     Hath called another to His rest."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      But the modern fashion was evidently to put up a flimsy cross, with the
+      letters R.I.P., <i>Requiescat in pace!</i> a prayer for the dead, who are
+      beyond our reach, safe in the endless rest, or in a darkness whither our
+      prayers cannot avail them. We left the scene with the feeling deeper than
+      ever, that there are growing up errors among us, against which it becomes
+      all true men earnestly to strive.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0099" id="linkimage-0099"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9146.jpg" alt="9146 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9146.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Meanwhile we had learned something about the bridge that we had crossed
+      just before, and the rush of waters below. Returning, therefore, and
+      making application at the house close by, we were conducted down into a
+      rocky gorge, through which rushes the Lid, one of the Dartmoor streams, a
+      tributary of the Tamar. The cliffs, irregular and castellated, are seventy
+      feet high; a narrow, dangerous path is carried along one side of the rock,
+      and the wild foaming waters in the dark, narrow glen carry back the
+      traveller's mind to Switzerland. Certainly there is nothing like "Lidford
+      Bridge" elsewhere in England; the Strid in Bolton Woods may equal it in
+      its rush of waters; but the rocks there lie in the open woodland, and the
+      stream is but a few feet below their summit: here the beetling precipices
+      almost meet above, as at the "Devil's Bridge" in Cardiganshire, and there
+      are weird stories at both places of travellers on horseback who have
+      leaped the bridge unconsciously by night, when broken down, only
+      discovering their peril and their escape on the following day.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      From Lidford to Tavistock was an easy ride, and we found this pleasant
+      town a place every way suitable for a Lord's Day rest. Outwardly, the
+      great charm of the locality is the meeting-place between the wildness of
+      Dartmoor and the rich cultivation of the valley; while some walks by the
+      river are of a tranquil and serene beauty, only as it seems to us to be
+      found in England, and to be enjoyed on the day of rest. Perhaps our
+      feeling is in a great measure due to association; but if so, we have to
+      thank association for one of the happiest evenings we have known. Next
+      morning we explored the remains of the Abbey&mdash;now put to
+      heterogeneous uses&mdash;a public library, a Unitarian Chapel, and a
+      hotel, with sundry ruins in the vicarage garden; then a short railway
+      journey carried us across the Cornish border to Launceston, where a short
+      climb through pretty pleasure grounds to the keep of the old castle on the
+      knoll that rises steeply from the town gave us a fine view, from the bulky
+      range of Dartmoor on the one side, to the craggy outline of the Cornish
+      hills on the other.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0100" id="linkimage-0100"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0147m.jpg" alt="0147m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0147.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Our object, however, was now to reach the coast; and, as a good test of
+      our pedestrian powers, already pretty well exercised in the course of this
+      charming: tour, we determined to walk over the hills in the direction of
+      the sea, knowing that even if our powers failed, some passing "van" would
+      take us up, and convey us in a primitive fashion to the nearest town. But
+      we persevered, and, when we had accomplished nine or ten miles of an
+      undulating, monotonous road, were rewarded by the first glimpse of the
+      Atlantic, with the cloud shadows lying afar upon the untroubled sapphire;
+      while, though no breeze stirred, there was a sense of freshness in the air
+      that encouraged us to press on to our journey's end. At length we reached
+      it, in a village to name which is to raise in the minds of those who have
+      visited it memories most delightful; while to the multitude it is and will
+      probably remain unknown. We will not call it Trelyon, after the fashion of
+      a popular novelist, who has given us some of the most charming
+      word-pictures of this scenery which our literature contains. Nor is it
+      unkindness to the happy few who already know Boscastle, and one delightful
+      homelike retreat from the world which it contains, to raise the veil a
+      little farther. That it is several miles distant from a railway station,
+      that there is no public conveyance to it but the "vans" already referred
+      to, that gas is a luxury unknown, are points in its favour to those who
+      think, like the Frenchman:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "How sweet, how passing sweet, is solitude!
+     But give me just one friend in my retreat,
+     To whom to whisper, 'Solitude is sweet.'"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      For society may be found at Boscastle&mdash;the society of the chosen few.
+      The place itself is unique. Through tiny meadows a streamlet flows swiftly
+      towards the sea, entering a fissure where the hills, swelling upward on
+      either hand, rise to towering cliffs, inclosing a harbour, up which the
+      tide surges restlessly to meet the stream, then as restlessly subsides.
+      Behind the cliff on the western side, up a broad cleft from the brink of
+      the rivulet to the hill-summit, runs the village, inhabited by a hardy,
+      independent, self-contained race of Cornish people, proud of their
+      scenery, as well they may be. The slate cliffs, in endless diversity of
+      craggy pointed form, skirt the sea, which ever chafes against their bases;
+      here and there a little inlet far below shows a surface of smooth white
+      sand, inaccessible from the land, or to be reached only by the surefooted
+      climber, familiar with every step. Broad grassy slopes crown the cliffs,
+      and every turn discloses magnificent views of sea and shore. Our walk
+      along the cliffs to Tintagel, starting from Willapark Point, the headland
+      that rises so grandly to the west of the little bay, was of an interest
+      which perhaps no other coast scene in England can fully match. First,
+      Forrabury Church was passed, with its silent tower; the bells once
+      destined for it lying, according to tradition, close by, at the bottom of
+      the Atlantic. The ship that conveyed them was nearing the port. "Thank God
+      for a fair voyage," said the pilot. "Nay," replied the captain, "thank the
+      ship, the canvas, and the fair wind." It was in vain that the pilot
+      remonstrated; but even while the ship was rounding the point a sudden
+      storm gathered, the vessel was dashed upon the rocky coast, all perished
+      save the pilot, and the bells sinking to the deep tolled solemnly, as if
+      for the fate of those who would not acknowledge God. Still, it is said,
+      when the storm rises high&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "'Those bells, that sullen surges hide,
+     'Peal their deep notes beneath the tide:
+     'Come to thy God in time!'&mdash;thus saith the ocean chime:
+     'Storm, billow, whirlwind past, come to thy God at last.'"
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0101" id="linkimage-0101"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0150m.jpg" alt="0150m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0150.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Such is a specimen of the tales told at many a Cornish fireside. As we
+      pass on we feel more and more that we are in the country of legend and
+      song. The rolling uplands that stretch inland, with the deep vales and
+      furzy hollows that intersect them, are renowned as the realm of King
+      Arthur, the hero of British history and fable. Here, on the shore of the
+      Atlantic, he may have gathered his good knights around him, to stand with
+      them against the heathen invader; or it may be that here he was born,
+      according to the legend; while "the great battle of the west," in which
+      the hero disappeared, is said to have been fought at Camelford, in the
+      neighbourhood. Local legends are full of this royal name; and if, as some
+      will have it, King Arthur never existed, the universality of the tradition
+      is all the more remarkable. The impress of his memory and life is
+      everywhere. Of a little cottage maiden who guided us, we ask her name.
+      "Jinnifer," was the reply&mdash;an unconscious perpetuation of the name of
+      Guinevere, Arthur's Oueen.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A lovely wooded glen breaks the cliff halfway to Tintagel, at the heal of
+      which the explorer will find a waterfall, in a wild forest ravine, both on
+      a somewhat miniature scale; but in the accessories of rock-hewn walks,
+      with clinging shrubs and mountain spring-flowers, watered by the dashing
+      spray, the dell was perfect. St. Nighton's Keive, or basin, as this
+      romantic nook is called, is a sudden and welcome change from the wild
+      sublimity of the rocks above, and the ceaseless thunder of the Atlantic.
+      But we must reascend; and soon, from our turfy path upon the height we
+      come into full view of a stupendous rock, standing a little way out to
+      sea, the home of myriads of seabirds that circle the rock with weird
+      cries, or, descending in flocks, skim the surface of the waves. They have
+      evidently learned to fear the gun, and to distrust mankind.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Tintagel, now approached, is an irregular village, following the lines and
+      descents of the cliff. The church is on a wind-swept headland to the west,
+      and in its stormiest corner we found the grave and monument of Mr. Douglas
+      Cooke, the first editor of the <i>Saturday Review</i>. It was curious to
+      be reminded of the conflicts of literature at this meeting-place of
+      storms.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Tintagel Castle itself we approached by a path that looked perilous, but
+      was safe enough, descending from the cliff and rising steeply to a
+      promontory or peninsula of slaty rock, on which the ruins stand. These are
+      jagged, time-worn; little plan or order can be traced; such fragments of
+      building as still exist are no doubt of much more recent origin than
+      Arthur's time: the outward glory of the scene is all in the majestic sweep
+      and serried outline of the stupendous cliffs, with the long roll of the
+      sea breaking ceaselessly into billows at their base. The stillness is
+      unbroken, save for this ocean music, with the hoarse cry of sea-birds, and
+      the occasional bleating of the few sheep who pasture here. The sense of
+      isolation becomes at last oppressive, and we gladly retrace our steps to
+      the mainland.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Boscastle remains for a time our home: it is a never-ceasing delight to
+      climb to some nook of the cliffs, east and west, which inclose the little
+      harbour, or to stroll down to the little pier&mdash;a trying walk at
+      certain seasons, because of a chemical manure manufactory on the way&mdash;or
+      to ramble over the grassy slopes, inhaling the pure breezes of the
+      Atlantic. The Sunday spent in the neighbourhood was one of peculiar
+      delight. Wandering inland, we found a church, in the depths of a wood; the
+      congregation seemed to emerge, we knew not how, from deep bowery lanes and
+      by-paths among the trees; the service was none the less impressive for the
+      singing of birds without and the fragrance of spring blossoms stealing
+      through the open windows. The sermon, too, was appropriate, a tender,
+      practical exhortation to "delight ourselves in God." In the evening of the
+      same day, in the hush of twilight, taking our accustomed path over the
+      cliffs, we came upon a group of people, old and young, who had evidently
+      come thither after an early evening service at one of the chapels: they
+      were holding a prayer-meeting in the rocky nook&mdash;singing a hymn as we
+      approached, the burden of which was "Over there," while wistful eyes gazed
+      across the now purple sea, to the splendours which lingered in the west
+      after sunset, as though reminded by those tints of heavenly glory of the
+      land that is very far off. It was good for the stranger to pause by the
+      way, to join in that touching strain, and add his Amen to that Sabbath
+      evening prayer.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0102" id="linkimage-0102"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9152.jpg" alt="9152 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9152.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Boscastle was so attractive that the rest of a long journey had to be
+      performed in haste. Bodmin, Truro, Redruth, were all rapidly passed, and
+      after climbing Carnbrea, near the latter town, and hearing some of the
+      marvellous stories connected with that giant hill, we took rail for
+      Penzance, anxious at least to visit St. Michael's Mount, the Logan Rock
+      and the Land's End. But what impressed us most, when we reached that last
+      and prettiest of Cornish towns, was the climate. We had believed it
+      spring; but here it was already summer! The last struggle with wintry
+      frosts was over, and the woods and fields were decked with all their
+      wealth of verdure; the air had lost its sharpness, and the rich colouring
+      of every part of the scene, from the golden furze upon the hills to the
+      ruddy lichen on the rocks, seemed to reflect the genial glow. Mount's Bay,
+      still and blue, was wonderful in its contrast with the Atlantic surges
+      that we had just left on the opposite shore. We thought of the words with
+      which Emerson begins one of his lectures: "In this refulgent summer it has
+      been a luxury to live."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      St. Michael's Mount, that extraordinary combination, geologically
+      speaking, of granite and clay-slate, remarkable, too, in its
+      correspondence with the much larger Mont St. Michel on the shore of
+      Normandy, is as interesting a place to visit as it is beautiful to look
+      upon. The views from its summit over sea and land are of surpassing
+      loveliness, and to enjoy them to the full it is not necessary to make the
+      hazardous attempt to sit in "St. Michael's Chair," the half, it is said,
+      of an old stone lantern, but overhanging the precipice in a very perilous
+      way. The villagers round the bay will tell you that the archangel himself
+      appears in this "chair" when a storm is raging, and firmly believe that he
+      is the guardian spirit of these seas.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The Logan Rock, to which we next directed our steps, was disappointing in
+      more ways than one: the finest part of the cliff-scenery being the great
+      granite headland, which visitors are apt to pass unnoticed, in searching
+      for the natural curiosity, and in recalling the story of its fall and
+      reinstatement. There are, in fact, many "logan" or logging rocks in
+      granite districts, locally called Tolmêns; one formerly in the parish of
+      Constantine, between Penrhyn and Helston, being larger than this on the
+      coast, though without its magnificent accessories. Their peculiar position
+      is caused by the influence of air and moisture, wearing a fissure in the
+      rock, until a detached upper portion rests only on a small central base.
+      The wonder is in the bigness of the rock thus balanced, and in the
+      evenness of the process of disintegration all around: the vast majority of
+      boulders worn away by such agencies being of course over balanced, so as
+      to fall on one side.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0104" id="linkimage-0104"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0154m.jpg" alt="0154m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0154.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The mechanical restoration of this Logan Rock to its position, and the
+      appliances necessary to keep it in balance, give an artifical air to the
+      whole, and we were glad to turn away to the stupendous cliff scenery,
+      pursuing a path along the rocks to the Land's End, where every point has
+      its old Cornish name, and where the combinations of form and outline, if
+      less imposing than on the northern shore, are still very fine. The granite
+      of which this southern line of coast is composed is more rugged and
+      massive, if less variously picturesque, and the admirer of coast scenery
+      who has explored the two districts&mdash;from Boscastle to Tintagel, and
+      from the Logan Rock to the Land's End&mdash;has little' more to see or to
+      learn.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great western promontory has been so often described that we need but
+      refer to our artist's delineation. The low descending promontory, from the
+      great cliff rampart behind, the narrowness of the "neck of land" between
+      "two unbounded seas,"&mdash;to adopt the phrase of Charles Wesley's
+      well-known hymn, here written,&mdash;the rocky islands near, on which the
+      lighthouse stands, and the ever-chafing restless surge, make up a picture
+      which fills the imagination in many after days.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0105" id="linkimage-0105"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8155.jpg" alt="8155 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8155.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      From this point "the vast expanse of ocean is at all times a grand
+      spectacle; it is terrible when a fierce westerly gale levels before it the
+      whole flow of the sea, driving forward one blinding sheet of foam, even to
+      the summit of the Land's End precipice; but it is yet more solemn in its
+      quieter mood, when, with little wind stirring, the vast billows,
+      propagated from some centre of storms far in the Atlantic, come slowly to
+      break on the rocks in measured cadences of thunder, the very types of
+      enormous power in repose."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But it was now time to turn our thoughts and our course homeward.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Very reluctantly, we left the south of Cornwall unvisited&mdash;the Lizard
+      Point, Kynance Cove, and the magnificent harbour of Falmouth, with its
+      flanking castles of Pen-dennis and St. Mawes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0106" id="linkimage-0106"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9155.jpg" alt="9155 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9155.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Then there were the great southern towns of Devonshire, with their
+      beauties manifold,&mdash;Plymouth and Torquay, with the lovely little
+      watering-places of Teignmouth and Dawlish, and stately Exeter itself. On
+      previous occasions we had visited them all, had spent long dreamy hours in
+      Anstey's Cove, then comparatively unvisited by excursionists, had tenanted
+      humble lodgings at Babbicombe Bay, before the villas were built, and had
+      sailed down the lovely winding Dart to Dartmouth, with its harbour among
+      the hills. The natural beauties are still there, though art has done much
+      of its best or its worst with them since those days. But we must now pass
+      them all by, only in imagination breathing their soft southern airs, or
+      casting hasty glances at one or other of them from the carriage windows of
+      the romantic South Devon Railway. For we have tarried amid the attractions
+      of the far west until the latest possible moment. At six in the morning we
+      leave Penzance; at six in the evening we are in London.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0107" id="linkimage-0107"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0156m.jpg" alt="0156m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0156.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0108" id="linkimage-0108"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0158m.jpg" alt="0158m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0158.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0009" id="link2H_4_0009"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE ENGLISH LAKES
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0109" id="linkimage-0109"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0159m.jpg" alt="0159m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0159.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">O</span>NE great
+      attraction of the Lake district of Cumberland and Westmoreland lies in its
+      singular compactness. Equal beauties, and greater sublimity, may be found
+      elsewhere, but nowhere surely has such immense variety of natural charms
+      been gathered within the same space. A good pedestrian might pass from the
+      north of the district to the south&mdash;from Keswick to Windermere&mdash;in
+      a single day; or in even less time might make his way from east to west&mdash;from
+      Patterdale to the foot of Wastwater. True, in so hurried a journey he
+      would lose much; for weeks may delightfully be spent among the mountains,
+      in exploring their hidden nooks and wonders. But all that is most
+      beautiful is within the compass of a short tour; and an observation which
+      Mr. Ruskin has somewhere made about Switzerland is as true of this
+      enchanting country. He says that the loveliest and sublimest scenes are to
+      be witnessed from beaten roads and spots easy of access; that things as
+      wonderful are open to the view of the traveller who cannot leave his
+      carriage as to the Alpine mountaineer. There is no doubt an exhilaration
+      of mountain air only to be enjoyed on the heights; and for the view of
+      billowy uplands all around the spectator, like a Titanic ocean stricken
+      into stillness, the visitor to the Lakes ought to ascend Helvellyn; but
+      the views from the valleys, or from the roads that encircle the lower
+      slopes of the mountains, are incomparable. Familiar as is the road from
+      Ambleside to Grasmere, or, in another style of beauty, the drive to
+      Red-bank and High Close, or, in yet another, the ascent to the Castle Hill
+      at Keswick, they never lose their charm even to those who prefer to leave
+      these easy ways for the toilsome walk over the Stake or Sty Head Pass, or
+      up the shaley steeps of Scafell or the tremendous grassy slopes of
+      Skiddaw. The glories of this district are, in a word, for all who have
+      eyes to see and hearts to feel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0110" id="linkimage-0110"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0160m.jpg" alt="0160m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0160.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      First impressions have great effect, especially in the approach to
+      beautiful scenery; and there are at least three ways to the Lake district
+      from the south which compete one with another in their interest. The first
+      is by rail, northwards from Lancaster to Penrith, passing by the outside
+      or eastern edge of the fells which bound the mountain region. This journey
+      throughout is of wonderful beauty, especially where the broad grassy fells
+      rise steeply on one side of the line, and on the other the hill abruptly
+      descends to the river Lune, here little more than a mountain streamlet,
+      eddying and sparkling through wooded dells. From Penrith, a branch line to
+      Keswick passes in the latter part of its course through an exquisite glen,
+      watered by the streams that come down from the great Blencathara ridge,
+      with many a glimpse of picturesque crags clothed with fern, shrubs and
+      flowers jutting from the mountain's base. All this well prepares the
+      traveller for the glorious view that greets him when he emerges from the
+      station at Keswick, and looks forth upon the amphitheatre of mountains.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Another method of approach is by leaving the Lancaster and Carlisle
+      Railway at the junction for Kendal, so proceeding to the Windermere
+      terminus, situated on a height commanding a magnificent view of the upper
+      part of the lake. The suddenness with which this scene is disclosed, as
+      well as the completeness of its beauty, makes it to many the favourite
+      mode of access. It is also perhaps the most convenient, conveyances to
+      every part of the district being ready as the trains come in. The
+      traveller, however, should it be his first visit, will do well to go up to
+      Orrest' Head, behind the hotel, from which the whole of Windermere, with
+      its islands and the mountains beyond, form a truly enchanting prospect,
+      suggesting to the delighted spectator the wonders beyond.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0111" id="linkimage-0111"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0161m.jpg" alt="0161m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0161.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      But there is another way of entering this fairy region, by which its
+      beauties are not suddenly disclosed, but grow one by one upon the sight.
+      Still, perhaps, the unique and impressive character of the approach gives
+      this method of access the advantage over every other. So we say to every
+      reader who has not as yet visited the Lakes, Go by the over-land railway
+      along the edge of Morecambe Bay: and to those who have visited it by other
+      routes, Go again by this! The line crosses two estuaries, of the Kent and
+      of the Leven. When the tide is up, the effect of passing through a wide
+      expanse of sea rising to within a few feet of the embankment on both sides
+      is wonderfully striking; and at low water the great reaches of sand are
+      scarcely less impressive. Morecambe Bay, with its curving shore and many
+      inlets, is at all times beautiful, and the mountain ranges are seen dimly
+      in outline across its waters. At several points the railway embankment
+      seems to have effected a change in the sea-level; fields now fertile being
+      fringed on the side farthest from the bay by low cliffs, the bases of
+      which were evidently at no remote period washed by the waters. A vast
+      additional area might, one would think, be still reclaimed by engineering
+      skill without any serious cost. But we pass on to Ulverston, where we
+      change carriages, rather than proceed at present to Furness* and Coniston;
+      the direct entrance to the district being by a short recently-constructed
+      railway along the shore of the Leven up to the foot of Windermere. We pass
+      through a pretty wooded valley beside the bright, swiftly-descending
+      stream, and at the terminus, on the brink of the lake, find a little
+      steamer ready to pass upward. At first the charms of Windermere resemble
+      those of some fair broad river, flowing between ranges of low wood-crowned
+      hills; but the lake soon opens, and after we have passed Belle Isle,
+      opposite Bowness, any disappointment we may have felt at first yields to
+      unbounded admiration. The mountains at the head of the lake disclose their
+      grand outlines, appearing to change their relative positions at every turn
+      of the steamer; and some persons acquainted with mountain scenery in many
+      lands pronounce the view of these heights a little before sunset in summer
+      time to be unsurpassed in beauty. Wansfell Pike on the right, Fairfield in
+      front, and the Langdale Pikes in the distance on the left, with the broken
+      lines and broad uplands of Loughrigg Fells between, all invested with the
+      shadowy tints of evening, form a picture which in its tender aerial
+      loveliness seems ready to vanish while we gaze.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * There is another way of entering the district, by the
+     Furness Railway, and along the west coast, as far as the
+     station at Seascales or Drigg: thence to Wastwater, and
+     Wastdale Head. The traveller will thus plunge at once into
+     the wildest and most desolate part of the Lake country,
+     emerging into fairer scenes.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0112" id="linkimage-0112"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0162m.jpg" alt="0162m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0162.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      If the ways of entering this fair district are manifold, so are the method
+      and order in which its attractions may be viewed. These must be studied in
+      the guide books, and every traveller will shape his route for himself. In
+      this, much will depend on the time at command. We have spent three days
+      among the Lakes, and again a week, again a month; and while the shorter
+      period enabled us to see much, the longer did but prove to us that the
+      beauties were inexhaustible. Some visitors take Ambleside as their
+      headquarters, some Grasmere, some Keswick; others, happier in their
+      decision, have no headquarters at all, but range from place to place. As a
+      centre, we should prefer Grasmere; but every one will have his own
+      preference. It may almost be said that the Lake country has its
+      controversies and sects, with as many divisions of opinion on the question
+      which part is the fairest, as on more important matters. Some give the
+      palm to Ullswater among the lakes, an equal number to Denventwater, a
+      minority to Windermere, while there are those who prefer the silent and
+      gloomy Wastwater. Then who shall say whether the view from Helvellyn,
+      Skiddaw, or Scafell is the most marvellous in its beauty? Our advice is to
+      join none of the sects, to take no part in the controversy, to climb all
+      three of the mountains, and to visit, if possible, all the lakes! After
+      this our advice may be thought to savour of partisanship, when we say that
+      the visitor who wishes to know the full and perfect beauty of this region,
+      whether he enter from the north, or west, or south, must on no account
+      neglect to visit Keswick and Skiddaw.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0113" id="linkimage-0113"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0163m.jpg" alt="0163m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0163.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The lovely lake of Derwentwater is so near to the little town, there are
+      so many points, as Friar's Crag, Castle Crag, and Latrigg, accessible by
+      the most moderate walking, and the days' excursions from the place are so
+      various and delightful, that none will feel our counsel to be out of
+      place. Not to mention that, in the by no means rare or improbable event of
+      a rainy day, there are the pencil factories and the models of the Lake
+      district. The latter should be seen alike by those who have traversed the
+      region, and by those who have not; the former will be interested in
+      recognising the places that they have visited, and the latter, in making
+      out their intended tours.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The great excursion from Keswick is one which is made by multitudes on
+      foot or in carriages; and for variety of charm within a comparatively
+      short compass its equal is hardly to be found. First the road leads
+      between the lake and an almost perpendicular crag, wooded to the summit.
+      Barrow Falls, in the pleasure-grounds of a mansion, may be visited on the
+      way; and few will omit to see Lodore, at the other end of the lake. The
+      charm here is that of a steep and rocky glen: rarely indeed does the
+      "water come down," at least in the summer-time, after the fashion
+      described in Southey's famous lines.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0114" id="linkimage-0114"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9164.jpg" alt="9164 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9164.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Then the grandeurs of Borrowdale unfold themselves, and Rossthwaite, in
+      the heart of this valley, is the very ideal of sequestered loveliness. The
+      road, turning to the right at Seatoller, climbs a long steep hill beside a
+      dashing torrent. A little way beyond the summit is Honister Crag, most
+      magnificent of inland cliffs; and so, amid wild rock-scenery on either
+      hand, we descend to Buttermere. The drive now discloses a grand
+      amphitheatre of mountains, whose summits form a rugged ever-changing line
+      against the sky. Soon the little inn is reached; but we would advise no
+      tourist so to occupy himself with the welcome refreshment, though
+      flavoured with that "best sauce," a sharp-set appetite, or even with the
+      ever-amusing "Visitors' Book," as to neglect rowing across Crummock Water,
+      when a walk of about a mile will take him to Scale Force, in its deep
+      rocky glen, the loftiest and noblest, as well as the most secluded of the
+      lake waterfalls. The drive back from Buttermere to Keswick, by the Newland
+      Valley, or the Vale of Lorton, with its old yew tree, is full of interest,
+      from the bold mountain forms ever in view, but has not the wonderfully
+      varied beauty of the Borrowdale and Seatoller route.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Everybody, as we have said, takes this drive: but there is an excursion
+      known to comparatively few, not a very long one, but "beautiful
+      exceedingly."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Should a morning at Keswick be unemployed, or if the question should arise
+      in the interval of wider explorations: "What shall I do to-day?" our
+      advice is to go up to Watendlath. This is a narrow upland valley,
+      extending from the head of the stream that supplies Barrow Fall, to that
+      which comes down at Lodore, then up by the latter to the tarn from which
+      it flows. It may be reached by one of two or three routes from below, and
+      after a short ascent the traveller finds himself, as it were, in the very
+      heart of the hills; a still and lovely world, above the beaten ways, with
+      nature's fragrance and music all around. We have suggested "a morning" for
+      the excursion, but it is still better to proceed leisurely; resting on
+      some turfy bank beside the path, in happy talk with congenial friends; or,
+      if alone, in quiet communion with our own souls and with Him who has made
+      the world so beautiful. In the earlier parts of the walk the occasional
+      views over Derwentwater, and down to Bassenthwaite, with Skiddaw towering
+      grandly in one direction, and the Borrowdale Mountains in another, are
+      magnificent; but in the heart of the glen, leading up beside the Lodore
+      torrent, these are gradually left behind. When the hamlet, and the tarn
+      with its bright rippling waters, at length are reached, and the torrent
+      has been crossed by a little rustic bridge, Ross-thwaite is descried
+      below, and may be reached by a steep descent; or the stout pedestrian may
+      strike boldly over Armboth Fall for Thirlmere at the foot of Helvellyn, or
+      if he please may climb still higher by the side of the Lodore stream until
+      he reaches Blea Tarn, high up among the fells.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Which of the three great mountains of the Lake district to choose in
+      preference for an ascent, it would be hard to say. On the whole, our own
+      associations would lead us to select Skiddaw; but if Helvellyn and Scafell
+      can also be ascended, so much the better. The distant views from Skiddaw
+      of the Solway Firth and the Scottish hills are very fine in clear weather;
+      but undoubtedly the wild magnificence of the mountain groups as seen from
+      Helvellyn is incomparable. The majesty of Scafell is the majesty of
+      desolation. Carlyle says:&mdash;
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "From this centre of the mountain region, beautiful and solemn is the
+      aspect to the traveller. He beholds a world of mountains, a hundred savage
+      peaks&mdash;like giant spirits of the wilderness; there in their silence,
+      in their solitude, even as on the night when Noah's deluge first dried." *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * <i>Sartor Resartus.</i>
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      But of all mountain scenes, that which most abides in our memory is that
+      which was suddenly outspread before us one summer evening, a little before
+      sunset, in descending Skiddaw. The afternoon had brought swirling blinding
+      mists about our upward path; we had reached the summit with difficulty,
+      only to find ourselves enveloped on all sides in a white chilly sea of
+      cloud. Passing breezes and sweeping sheets of vapour had created the hope
+      that the mists would soon pass away; but it seemed in vain to wait, and we
+      began descending. Then as we reached a little knoll on the mountain's
+      side, the mist parted before us, and in an instant had rolled far back on
+      either side. Through its vast shadowy portal, it was as if Paradise were
+      unveiled! The atmosphere below was perfectly transparent and still; the
+      rays of the sun were reflected in crimson glory from the lake, so as in an
+      instant to bring to the mind of every member of our party the Apocalyptic
+      vision of the "sea of glass mingled with fire." The splendour lighted up
+      every mountain side where it fell, their crags were gold and purple, the
+      verdure of the upland slopes and thick woods, with the living green of the
+      woods and meadows, gleamed with a more than tropical brilliancy; and the
+      long dark shadows which everywhere lay athwart the scene only set in
+      brighter contrast the surrounding glory. The mists fleeted, vanishing as
+      they ascended the mountain side; the magnificence of colouring soon
+      subsided into quiet loveliness, then into a sober grey; the vision had
+      faded, leaving deep suggestions of those possibilities of beauty
+      everywhere latent in this fair creation, perhaps to be fully disclosed
+      when the new heavens and earth shall appear.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Space fails us now to speak of the rival beauties of Ullswater, where the
+      surrounding mountains are closer and grander than in any other part of the
+      district. Every competent pedestrian we would advise to walk to this lake,
+      from the border of Thirlmere, and over the summit of Helvellyn. Should
+      this be too great a tax on the tourist's powers, he will find the way by
+      Griesdale, a pass between Fairfield and Helvellyn, a very practicable walk
+      amid grand scenery. And when Ullswater is reached, what more charming nook
+      can there be than Patterdale, deep set among the hills? After a little
+      time spent there, we pant perhaps for more open scenery and a more
+      stimulating atmosphere; and there is the climb over Kirkstone Pass to meet
+      our desire, and to carry us back to beautiful Windermere, our first love
+      and our last, in all this haunted realm!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have pursued for the most part a beaten track, verily believing, as we
+      said at the outset, that here the choicest beauties are to be found. But
+      there is many a hidden little-visited nook where the superadded charm of
+      solitude seems to enhance all the rest; and we shall be indignantly told
+      by many that we have left the loveliest spots without a mention. What can
+      be more perfectly beautiful than the view's from the hill-sides above the
+      head of Coniston Water? What valley can vie, in its combination of lofty
+      cliff, green slopes, richly varied woodland, and gleam of rushing waters,
+      with the approach from Coniston to Little Langdale? The few who in another
+      part of the district follow the Liza down to Ennerdale will have it that
+      there is a wild beauty in this glen which gives it a charm beyond all
+      others. And so is it on the other side, with the scarcely larger band of
+      visitors to secluded Mardale and wild and lonely Haweswater. Then, as to
+      mountain passes, the climber sneers at Griesdale, calls Kirkstone a
+      "Turn-pike-road," thinks there is nothing worth an effort but the Stake,
+      between Langdale and Borrowdale, Sty Head, between Langdale and Wastdale,
+      or Black Sail and Scarf Gap, from Wastdale to Buttermere. And even these
+      passes are not Alpine. Go in a fault-finding mood, and you will discover
+      that the torrents are without volume, that the mountains lack elevation,
+      that the lakes are insignificant in size. But the man whose eye and heart
+      are open to the impression of beauty will be indifferent to these
+      comparisons, will rather rejoice in the limitations which permit every
+      element of grandeur and loveliness to be gathered into so small a space;
+      and for ourselves we may say that we have never appreciated the charm of
+      the English Lakes so truly as when we have visited them after a tour amid
+      the mightier wonders of Switzerland.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0115" id="linkimage-0115"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0167m.jpg" alt="0167m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0167.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      At Ambleside there is many a pleasant resting-place in which to recall the
+      pleasures and sum up the impressions of the journey, and to dwell, as many
+      love to do, upon the associations of one and another great name by turns
+      with almost every part of the district. First and foremost is Wordsworth,
+      the poet of nature;&mdash;the great "Lake Poet," only because nature here
+      is at her loveliest,&mdash;who from his home at Grasmere, and afterwards
+      at Rydal Mount, gave utterance, more richly, truly, deeply, than any
+      writer of his generation, of man's delight in the Creator s work. The
+      association of his name with his beloved lake country is imperishable.
+      Many years ago De Quincey wrote, with reference to Wordsworth's earlier
+      poems, "The very names of the ancient hills&mdash;Fairfield, Seat Sandal,
+      Helvellyn, Blen-cathara, Glaramara; the names of the sequestered glens&mdash;such
+      as Borrowdale, Martindale, Mardale, Wastdale, and Ennerdale; but, above
+      all, the shy pastoral recesses, not garishly in the world's eye, like
+      Windermere or Der-wentwater, but lurking half unknown to the traveller of
+      that day&mdash;Grasmere, for instance, the lovely abode of the poet
+      himself, solitary, and yet sowed, as it were, with a thin diffusion of
+      humble dwellings&mdash;here a scattering, and there a clustering, as in
+      the starry heavens&mdash;sufficient to afford, at every turn and angle,
+      human remembrances and memorials of time-honoured affections, or of
+      passions (as the 'Churchyard amongst the Mountains' will amply
+      demonstrate), not wanting even in scenic and tragical interest&mdash;these
+      were so many local spells upon me, equally poetic and elevating with the
+      Miltonic names of Valdarno and Vallombrosa." *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Works, vol. ii. p. 124.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0116" id="linkimage-0116"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9168.jpg" alt="9168 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9168.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The spell remains, though some of the aspects of the scenery have changed.
+      Grasmere, for instance, is no longer a "shy pastoral recess," but the
+      stream of life that daily pours through the valley cannot impair its
+      beauty. This of all the lakes possesses, when the wind is still, the
+      supreme charm of perfect stillness and transparency. We have seen it when
+      it was absolutely impossible to distinguish its richly-wooded banks, or
+      the island near its centre, from their reflection in the unrippled water.
+      The unclouded blue of the heavens was mirrored, as in fathomless depths.
+      It was a "sea of glass like unto crystal." It may be hoped that this
+      loveliness will be uninvaded by anything which would mar its perfection.
+      We know that Wordsworth pathetically protested against the invasion of the
+      railway; but on the height which the Windermere station occupies, at the
+      very portal of this beautiful land, it in no degree interferes with the
+      enjoyment of the scenery, while facilitating the access of multitudes who
+      could not otherwise share the delight. The railway station at the foot of
+      the lake, that on the border of Coniston, and even that at Keswick, are,
+      so to speak, outside the magic circle; but we can fully sympathise with
+      Mr. Ruskin and others who have employed such strenuous efforts to resist
+      every threatened or possible inroad. The very compactness of the region,
+      and the ease with which, when once reached, it may be traversed
+      throughout, might lead the most impatient traveller to be satisfied with
+      the existing means of swift access. When the border is gained, let him
+      proceed leisurely, and enjoy. If young, the stagecoach travelling, which
+      is here so common, may yield him an unfamiliar, though old-fashioned kind
+      of delight. To judge from our own youthful recollections, as well as from
+      the literature of a past generation, there was, in favourable
+      circumstances of scenery and weather, an exhilaration in such journeys
+      which never is or can be known in the rapid rush through railway cuttings,
+      and over high embankments, behind the "Erebus" or "Phlegethon," at the
+      rate of fifty miles an hour! And many an elderly or middle-aged man almost
+      unconsciously exults in the renewal of his youth in that grand coach-drive
+      from Windermere over Dunmail Raise to Keswick.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0117" id="linkimage-0117"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0169m.jpg" alt="0169m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0169.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      But we return for a moment to the personal associations of this region.
+      Southey has often been classed with Wordsworth as belonging to a school of
+      "Lake Poets." Nothing could be more erroneous, as De Quincey pointed out
+      long ago. It is true that these poets both lived by the lakes; but there
+      is no sense in which they can be described as of the same "school." In
+      fact, they are curiously unlike in many of their chief characteristics;
+      although they esteemed each other truly; and very noble are the lines
+      which Wordsworth has dedicated to the memory of his friend:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Wide were his aims; yet in no human breast
+     Could private feelings find a holier nest.
+     His joys, his griefs, have vanished like a cloud
+     From Skiddaw's top; but he to heaven was vowed,
+     Through a life long and pure, and Christian faith
+     Calmed in his soul the fear of change and death." *
+
+     * From the Epitaph on Southey, by Wordsworth, in Crosthwaite
+     Church, Keswick.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0118" id="linkimage-0118"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0170m.jpg" alt="0170m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0170.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Other names arise to mind. Close under Orrest Head was Elleray, once the
+      beautiful home of Professor Wilson, the "Christopher North" whose
+      "recreations" were to describe, in language of a rich and gorgeous
+      luxuriance which the present generation is scarcely able to enjoy, but
+      which the readers of a past age dwelt upon with rapture, the glories of
+      mountain, lake, and sky. Fox How and the Knoll, between Windermere and
+      Rydal Water, bring to mind two very different names, each of great
+      influence in their generation. At the former, Dr. Arnold, of Rugby, passed
+      his happy vacations; in the latter, Miss Harriet Martineau endeavoured&mdash;with
+      what success we attempt not here to judge&mdash;to work out her theory of
+      life. The name of Coleridge also connects itself with this region; not of
+      the philosophic teacher and wonderful talker, though we have known the
+      mistake to be made by people well informed. Samuel Taylor Coleridge, as
+      Carlyle says, "sat on Highgate Hill having left the lakes for the great
+      city, never to return." It was his son Hartley whose brilliant gifts, in
+      their fitful and broken splendour, have caused the name of Coleridge to be
+      remembered, and repeated with pitying affection, all through the Grasmere
+      Vale.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0119" id="linkimage-0119"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0171m.jpg" alt="0171m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0171.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      We turn reluctantly from this world of beauty, happy in the remembrance of
+      what we have seen and felt, happier perhaps that so much remains unvisited
+      in a region where every by-way and secluded dell has its own peculiar
+      loveliness, and that we may hope to return again and yet again to explore
+      its wonders. For the mountain climber, are there not Great Gable, Bowfell,
+      Fairfield, Pillar Mountain in Ennerdale, steepest of all, Blen-cathara,
+      otherwise Saddleback, with its unequalled view of Derwentwater, and
+      Coniston Old Man, with its grand prospects over land and sea? These six
+      are scarcely inferior in height to the imperial three,* whose names and
+      forms are most familiar. Then the Langdales should be climbed; one or
+      both, as a position below the loftiest in a mountain land affords the best
+      point of view from which to apprehend the grandeur of the surrounding
+      hills. And after the greater lakes have been duly visited, what wealth of
+      hidden beauty is there in those retired valleys, where rivulets suddenly
+      expand into fair still sheets of water, reflecting the mountains at whose
+      base they lie; and what lonely grandeur in the tarns high among the hills,
+      rarely visited by human foot, and, like Scales Tarn on Blencathara, so
+      surrounded by wild crags as hardly ever to admit the sunlight! Excursion
+      after excursion may be made, not only by the angler, but by those who have
+      no taste for such sport, to these lofty miniature lakes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Or, if the tourist delights in waterfalls, let him seek out Dungeon Ghyll
+      in Langdale, or go up behind the inn at Ambleside to Stock Ghyll, or stop
+      on his way through the valley to admire the two picturesque Falls at
+      Rydal, or ramble through Gowbarrow Park, near Ullswater, as far as Airey
+      or Ara Force, which "by Lyulph's Tower speaks from the woody glen," or let
+      him make a special excursion to Eskdale to see Stanley Ghyll, described by
+      some tourists as the most beautiful of all. The beauty of these cascades,
+      and of others less famed, arises not from the volume of water, but from
+      the picturesqueness of the glens in which they lie; these being, in almost
+      every case, deep and narrow fissures in the rock, covered with ferns,
+      mosses and shrubs in the utmost luxuriance. The varied tints of the rocks
+      and of the foliage by which they are clothed give richness of colouring to
+      the picture; and when the sunlight falls upon the dashing spray, and
+      rainbow tints hang over the fall, the surpassing loveliness of the scene
+      is even enhanced by the smallness of its scale.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It would hardly be possible to omit, in any notice of the Lake district,
+      however incomplete, a reference to the great uncertainty of the weather.
+      In the deeper valleys, especially, as Wastdale and Buttermere, the
+      traveller is often sorely disappointed by incessant rain. Yet even this
+      has its compensation in the increased translucency of the air, the beauty
+      of the mountain streams and cascades, with the incomparable splendours of
+      the parting clouds, when the sunlight has smitten them apart, and their
+      white trains vanishing up the mountain-side are as the robes of angels.
+      When the summer airs elsewhere are stifling, and the ground is parched,
+      the effect of the frequent mists and showers is fully seen. For then the
+      whole lake country is as green as an emerald; and, except in the deepest
+      valleys, the wearied brain and limbs are refreshed by stimulating mountain
+      airs. Such seasons perhaps are the best for a visit to the Lakes; but they
+      are beautiful in winter too, when the snows linger on the heights, and in
+      the early spring, when the greensward is carpeted with wild flowers, and
+      in the autumn, when the purple, gold, and crimson clothe the woods in a
+      royal array, while the withered Reaves elsewhere strew all the ground.
+      "Those only know our country," say the dwellers among the lakes, "who live
+      here all the year round." Be it so. It is good to carry in memory, into
+      the busy, more prosaic walks of life, the glimpse, if it be no more, of
+      all this beauty; and, after all, it is the "still sad music of humanity"
+      that thrills the soul more deeply than the music of the whispering woods,
+      or of the torrent down the mountain side. It was the Poet of the Lakes and
+      Mountains who closed one of the noblest of his odes by the words:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Thanks to the human heart by which we live,
+     Thanks to its tenderness, its joys, its fears;
+     To me, the meanest flower that blows can give
+     Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0121" id="linkimage-0121"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0174m.jpg" alt="0174m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0174.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0010" id="link2H_4_0010"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE EASTERN COUNTIES
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0122" id="linkimage-0122"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0175m.jpg" alt="0175m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0175.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">J</span>ohn Foster
+      quaintly says that "the characteristic of genius is, that it can light its
+      own fire:" he might have added that it can provide its own fuel. Mere
+      talent is mainly dependent upon adventitious aids and favourable
+      circumstances, whilst genius can work with the clumsiest tools and the
+      most intractable materials. The magnificent scenery of Switzerland and the
+      Scotch Highlands has produced no artist or poet of the first rank. The
+      featureless landscape of Holland or of East Anglia sufficed for Cuyp or
+      Hobbema, or Ruysdael, for Gainsborough or Constable, or Old: Crome. The
+      quiet loveliness of Warwickshire was enough for Shakspere's genius. Milton
+      had seen the glories of the Alps and Apennines, but Buckinghamshire
+      furnished the subject-matter of <i>L'Allegro</i> and <i>Il Penseroso</i>.
+      The dreary flats of Bedfordshire and Huntingdonshire cease to be dull and
+      prosaic in Cowper s verse.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The themes of Tennyson's earlier poems were drawn from the fens and meres
+      and melancholy swamps of Lincolnshire. The truth is, that the eye makes
+      its own pictures, and sees just what it has the power of seeing.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "O Lady! we receive but what we give,
+     And in our life alone does nature live:
+     Ours is her wedding-garment, ours her shroud!
+     And would we aught behold, of higher worth,
+     Than that inanimate cold world allowed
+     To the poor, loveless, ever-anxious crowd,
+     Ah! from the soul itself must issue forth
+     A light, a glory, a fair luminous cloud
+     Enveloping the Earth&mdash;
+     And from the soul itself must there be sent
+     A sweet and potent voice, of its own birth,
+     Of all sweet sounds the life and element."*
+
+     * Coleridge's Sybilline Leaves.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0123" id="linkimage-0123"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0176m.jpg" alt="0176m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0176.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      It must, however, be confessed that it would be difficult at the present
+      day to find poetry or beauty in the Fen country. The meres have been
+      drained, the swamps have been reclaimed. The profusion of aquatic plants
+      and wild-fowl has disappeared. Whittlesea Mere and Ramsey-Mere have been
+      brought under the plough. Even the picturesque old windmills have given
+      place to the hideous chimney-shafts of pumping stations worked by steam.
+      We may almost parody the famous chapter of Olaus Magnus on "Snakes in
+      Iceland," and say&mdash;there are no fens in the fen country. If we would
+      know what the fens were once like, we must, read some of Tennyson's
+      earlier poems, or better still perhaps, one of Kingsley's prose Idylls:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "A certain sadness is pardonable to one who watches the destruction of a
+      grand natural phenomenon, even though its destruction bring blessings to
+      the human race. Reason and conscience tell us, that it is right and good
+      that the Great Fen should have become, instead of a waste and howling
+      wilderness, a garden of the Lord, where
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     'All the land in flowery squares,
+     Beneath a broad and equal-blowing wind,
+     Smell of the coming summer.'
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      And yet the fancy may linger, without blame, over the shining meres, the
+      golden reed-beds, the countless water-fowl, the strange and gaudy insects,
+      the wild nature, the mystery, the majesty&mdash;for mystery and majesty
+      there were&mdash;which haunted the deep fens for many a hundred years.
+      Little thinks the Scotsman, whirled down by the Great Northern Railway
+      from Peterborough to Huntingdon, what a grand place, even twenty years
+      ago, was that Holme and Whittlesea which is now but a black, unsightly,
+      steaming flat, from which the meres and reed-beds of the old world are
+      gone, while the corn and roots of the new world have not as yet taken
+      their place.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0124" id="linkimage-0124"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0177m.jpg" alt="0177m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0177.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      "But grand enough it was, that black ugly place, when backed by Caistor
+      Hanglands and Holme Wood, and the patches of the primeval forest; while
+      dark-green alders, and pale-green reeds, stretched for miles round the
+      broad lagoon, where the coot clanked, and the bittern boomed, and the
+      sedge-bird, not content with its own sweet song, mocked the notes of all
+      the birds around; while high overhead hung motionless hawk beyond hawk,
+      buzzard beyond buzzard, kite beyond kite, as far as the eye could see. Far
+      off, upon the silver mere, would rise a puff of smoke from a punt,
+      invisible from its flatness and its white paint. Then down the wind came
+      the boom of the great stanchion-gun; and after that sound another sound,
+      louder as it neared; a cry as of all the bells of Cambridge, and all the
+      hounds of Cottesmore; and overhead rushed and whirled the skein of
+      terrified wildfowl, screaming, piping, clacking, croaking, filling the air
+      with the hoarse rattle of their wings, while clear above all sounded the
+      wild whistle of the curlew, and the trumpet note of the great wild swan.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0125" id="linkimage-0125"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9178.jpg" alt="9178 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9178.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      "They are all gone now. No longer do the ruffs trample the sedge into a
+      hard floor in their fighting-rings, while the sober reeves stand round
+      admiring the tournament of their lovers, gay with ears and tippets, no two
+      of them alike. Gone are ruffs and reeves, spoonbills, bitterns, avosets;
+      the very snipe, one hears, disdains to breed. Gone, too, not only from
+      Whittlesea but from the whole world, is that most exquisite of English
+      butterflies, <i>Lycaena dispar</i>&mdash;the great copper; and many a
+      curious insect more. Ah, well, at least we shall have wheat and mutton
+      instead, and no more typhus and ague; and, it is to be hoped, no more
+      brandy-drinking and opium-eating; and children will live and not die. For
+      it was a hard place to live in, the old Fen; a place wherein one heard of
+      'unexampled instances of longevity,' for the same reason that one hears of
+      them in savage tribes&mdash;that few lived to old age at all, save those
+      iron constitutions which nothing could break down." *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * Prose Idylls, New and Old, by Rev. Charles Kingsley.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      One of the most characteristic walks in the Fen country is that from
+      Peakirk (St. Pega Kirk), a station on the Peterborough and Spalding line,
+      to Crowland. The road runs along the top of a high bank, raised so as to
+      be above the reach of the inundations. On either hand a flat and dreary
+      plain stretches to the horizon. It is intersected by ditches filled with
+      black stagnant water and fringed by aquatic plants, amongst which the
+      yellow iris is prominent. Here and there a farm-house, approached by an
+      avenue of pollard-willows, and surrounded by a few acres of
+      well-cultivated land, breaks in upon the monotony of the scene. Elsewhere
+      the vegetation is rank and coarse but abundant, upon which droves of
+      horses and cattle thrive. A perpetual chorus of croaking from innumerable
+      frogs in the marshes accompanies the pedestrian on his way, to which the
+      sweet notes of the sedge-warbler and other small birds form an exquisite
+      accompaniment.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0126" id="linkimage-0126"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0180m.jpg" alt="0180m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0180.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      In the winter, when the fens are flooded and frozen over, the scene is one
+      of rare interest and excitement. The clear sharp ring of the skates on the
+      ice, the merry shouts of the skaters, the stir and bustle of a district
+      usually so dull and stagnant, the feats of agility and skill displayed by
+      a peasantry to skate a mile in two minutes, but without success, though he
+      is said to have only exceeded the two minutes by two seconds.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0127" id="linkimage-0127"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8181.jpg" alt="8181 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8181.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The ordinary pace of a fast skater is one mile in three and a half or four
+      minutes." He who is so fortunate as to see one of the great skating-revels
+      of these eastern counties under the glowing light of a sunrise or a sunset
+      will not easily forget it&mdash;for the sunrises and sunsets of the Fen
+      country are of incomparable splendour. It is an error to suppose that the
+      dry pure atmosphere of Southern Europe is favourable to these magnificent
+      effects of colour. Some of the finest sunsets I have ever seen have been
+      when walking westward along Oxford Street on a frosty evening. The clouds
+      of smoke and mist hanging over the great city have become suffused with a
+      glory of crimson and purple and amber with which no Italian sky can
+      compare. So in the Fen country, the clouds and fogs driven inland from the
+      sea, and the humid vapours exhaled from the soil, glow with all imaginable
+      hues in the light of the setting sun. The cold colourless landscape
+      reflects the radiance and is tinged with the colours of the sky; the
+      skaters as they glide swiftly past through the golden haze seem like
+      actors in some fairy spectacle.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0128" id="linkimage-0128"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0182m.jpg" alt="0182m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0182.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Before the reclamation of the fens, the swamps and meres which covered so
+      large a portion of the soil were the haunt of innumerable wild fowl, which
+      were the source of considerable profit to the fensmen. Of late years their
+      numbers have greatly diminished, but the London market is still largely
+      supplied from this district. Flat-bottomed boats screened by reeds so as
+      to resemble floating islands are fitted with heavy duck-guns, from a
+      single discharge of which dozens of birds sometimes fall. One of the best
+      duck-decoys remaining in East Anglia lies at a short distance from the
+      road midway between Peakirk and Crowland. A small mere a few acres in
+      extent forms the scene of operations. From this run eight ditches, or
+      "pipes," as they are locally called, ten or twelve feet wide at the
+      entrance, and about a hundred feet long, diminishing to a narrow gutter at
+      the end. They curve round so that only a small part of the whole is
+      visible from any point. They are inclosed by walls of matted reeds and
+      roofed over by nets. Tame ducks are trained to lead the way into the
+      mouths of the pipes, and are followed by the wild fowl. Little dogs, of a
+      white or red colour, enter the pipes through holes made in the reed
+      screens, gambol about inside for a minute or two, come out again, and
+      again show themselves a little higher up the pipe. The wild fowl, though
+      easily alarmed, are very curious and inquisitive. They swim or fly forward
+      to investigate this strange phenomenon till they have gone too far to
+      recede, when the net closes upon them, and the whole flock is taken.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0129" id="linkimage-0129"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0183m.jpg" alt="0183m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0183.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      In the days of yore, when this district resembled a great lake studded
+      with numerous islands fringed with willow groves, it was the seat of
+      numerous ecclesiastical establishments of great wealth and influence&mdash;Peterborough,
+      Crowland, Ely, Thorney, Spalding, Ramsey and others. The insulated sites
+      were favourable to the seclusion of the cloister, the patches of land were
+      exceedingly fertile, and the water abounded with fish and wild fowl. On
+      one of these Fen islands rose the great Abbey of Crowland, the ruins of
+      which come into view some miles before we reach it. Its foundation goes
+      back to Saxon times, and it was repeatedly sacked by the Danes. Turketul,
+      grandson of King Alfred, who through four successive reigns had rendered
+      important services to the nation by his valour in the field and his wisdom
+      in counsel, returning from a journey to the North, found the abbey a ruin.
+      Of the once flourishing community only three monks remained to tell the
+      story of the massacre of their brethren and the destruction of their abbey
+      by the invaders. They accommodated their illustrious visitor to the best
+      of their ability amongst the fire-scathed walls of the church, and
+      entreated his intercession with the king for assistance. The interview
+      made a deep impression on his mind, and, reaching home, he astonished his
+      royal master by avowing his intention to become a monk. Accordingly he
+      caused proclamation to be made by public crier that he was anxious to
+      discharge his debts, and if he had wronged any man would restore fourfold.
+      Resigning all his offices, Turketul repaired to the Fens, devoted himself
+      to the rebuilding of the abbey and the restoration of its fallen fortunes,
+      became abbot, and there spent the remainder of his days.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0130" id="linkimage-0130"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9184.jpg" alt="9184 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9184.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      A curious structure, known as Crowland Bridge, which stands in the centre
+      of the town, has greatly perplexed archaeologists, and given rise to
+      various legends. It consists of three semi-arches whose bases stand
+      equi-dis-tant from each other in the circumference of a circle and unite
+      in the centre. At the foot of one of the arches is a mutilated statue,
+      apparently holding an orb in the right hand. Local tradition declares that
+      three rivers ran through the three arches into an immense pit dug to
+      receive them, and that the statue represents Oliver Cromwell with a penny
+      roll in his hand! The most probable explanation of the remarkable
+      structure is that it was a high cross built to form a trysting-place for
+      the fens-men, who, when the Fens were flooded, might bring hither their
+      produce for sale in boats, and that the figure is St. Guthlac, the founder
+      and patron of the abbey.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      If East Anglia possesses little natural beauty, it is rich in historical
+      associations. Reference has already been made to the many noble ruins of
+      ancient ecclesiastical buildings throughout the Fen country. Their
+      traditional reputation has been handed down in an old rhyming legend:
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Ramsey, the rich of gold and of fee,
+     Thorney, the flower of many a fair tree,
+     Crowland, the courteous of their meat and drink,
+     Spalding, the gluttons, as all men do think,
+     Peterborough the proud, as all men do say,
+     Sawtrey, by the way, that old abbey,
+     Gave more alms in one day than all they."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0131" id="linkimage-0131"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0185m.jpg" alt="0185m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0185.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      It maybe doubted whether in any part of the world four such cathedrals can
+      be found in the same compass as Lincoln, Peterborough, Ely, and Norwich.
+      And it is certain that with the single and doubtful exception of Oxford,
+      no such magnificent collection of collegiate edifices exists as those of
+      Cambridge. "That long street which, beginning from the Trumpington Road,
+      skirts the magnificent Fitzwilliam Museum and the Pitt Press; which passes
+      by ancient Peterhouse and quaint St. Catherine on one side; which is there
+      known as King's Road and fronts the glories of King's College, the Senate
+      House, the Library, and Caius College; which then in a darkening and
+      narrow street, almost a very gorge, skirts the old historic gateways of
+      Trinity and St. John's, and afterwards emerges past the chapel which is
+      the latest architectural glory of Cambridge, opposite the venerable round
+      church and near the new buildings of the Union&mdash;certainly in its long
+      broken wavering line, this street may enter into formidable competition
+      with the High Street of Oxford or any of the streets of the world.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0132" id="linkimage-0132"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0186m.jpg" alt="0186m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0186.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      There are, moreover, several distinct features in which Cambridge is
+      unsurpassable. The wide silent old court of Trinity, with its babbling
+      fountain; the glorious structure of King's College; above all, that
+      exquisite scenery, a composition made up of many varying beauties known as
+      the "backs of the colleges are separate features to which Oxford can
+      hardly offer a parallel. As an Oxford poet has said:&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Ah me! were ever river banks so fair,
+     Gardens so fit for nightingales as these?
+     Were ever haunts so meet for summer breeze,
+     Or pensive walk in evening's golden air?
+     Was ever town so rich in court and tower
+     To woo and win stray moonlight every hour?" *
+
+     * From Oxford and Cambridge, their Memories and
+     Associations. Religious Tract Society.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0133" id="linkimage-0133"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0188m.jpg" alt="0188m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0188.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Among the cities of East Anglia, Norwich claims special mention. Though a
+      local couplet declares that&mdash;
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Caistor was a city when Norwich was none.
+     And Norwich was builded with Caistor stone."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0134" id="linkimage-0134"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8189.jpg" alt="8189 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8189.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Yet the <i>parvenu</i> upstart goes back to the time of the Roman
+      occupation of the island. It was the capital of the Saxon kingdom of East
+      Anglia, and for many centuries afterwards it held a prominent place in our
+      history. So early as the reign of Edward III. it was one of the great
+      centres of our manufacturing industry; the Flemish settlers having here
+      introduced or developed the woollen trade. In pre-reformation days it was
+      a stronghold of the Wyckliffites or Lollards, many of whom here sealed
+      their testimony with their blood. In 1531, Thomas Bilney was added to the
+      list of worthies who make up the Norwich Martyrology. Probably no other
+      provincial town in England has given so many eminent names to the
+      literature, science, and art of our country, from Sir Thomas Browne,
+      author of the <i>Religio Medici</i>, down to Harriet Martineau. Even apart
+      from these interesting associations, Norwich itself deserves and will well
+      repay a visit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0135" id="linkimage-0135"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9189.jpg" alt="9189 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9189.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Surrounded by wooded slopes and pleasant meadows and winding streams, its
+      streets full of quaint picturesque architecture, and dominated by its
+      noble castle and cathedral, few or none of our English cities offer a more
+      pleasing combination of urban and rural beauty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The tourist in search of the picturesque in East Anglia will do well to
+      include Yarmouth among his wanderings.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Its surroundings indeed are as flat and uninteresting as possible. The
+      readers of David Copperfield will remember his description: "As we drew a
+      little nearer and saw the whole adjacent prospect lying in a straight line
+      under the sky, I hinted to Peggotty that a mound or so might have improved
+      it; and also that if the land had been a little more separated from the
+      sea, and that the town and the tide had not been quite so mixed up like
+      toast and water, it would have been nicer. But Peggotty said with greater
+      emphasis than usual, that we must take things as we found them; and that
+      for her part she was proud to call herself a Yarmouth Bloater."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0136" id="linkimage-0136"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0190m.jpg" alt="0190m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0190.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      But the town is a curious combination of English bustle and Dutch
+      quaintness. Its quay reminds the traveller of the Boomptjies of Rotterdam;
+      its "rows," only a few feet wide, with a narrow riband of sky overhead,
+      recall the narrow streets of Genoa; its vast fleet of herring-boats
+      discharging their silvery "harvest of the sea" at the wharves, offer a
+      spectacle almost unique in the world. Unlike Norwich and many other
+      neighbouring towns, Yarmouth has been the scene of no important event in
+      our history, nor has it contributed any illustrious name to our list of
+      worthies. A stained glass window in the parish church, however,
+      perpetuates the earthly memory of one whom Scripture declares shall be
+      "had in everlasting remembrance"&mdash;Sarah Martin, the prison visitor.
+      She was a poor dressmaker, without wealth or social position, earning with
+      difficulty a scanty subsistence by her needle, yet doing a work comparable
+      to that of John Howard or of Elizabeth Fry. The great lesson of her life
+      has been admirably inculcated by an eloquent American preacher:
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0137" id="linkimage-0137"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8191.jpg" alt="8191 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8191.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      "Here, on a lowly bed, in an English village by the sea,&mdash;fades out
+      the earthly life of one of God's humblest but noblest servants. Worn with
+      the patient care of deserted prisoners and malefactors in the town gaol
+      for twenty-four years of unthanked service, earning her bread with her
+      hands, and putting songs of worship on the lips of these penitent
+      criminals,&mdash;Bible and Prayer-book in his feeble hand, saying, at the
+      end, 'I have been the happiest of men, yet I feel that death will be gain
+      to me, through Christ who died for me.'
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0138" id="linkimage-0138"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9191.jpg" alt="9191 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9191.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      "Blessed be God for the manifold features of triumphant faith!&mdash;that
+      He suffers His children to walk toward Him through ways so various in
+      their outward look&mdash;Sarah Martin; from her cottage bed, Earl Spencer
+      from his gorgeous couch, little children in their innocence, unpretending
+      women in the quiet ministrations of faithful love, strong and useful and
+      honoured men, whom suffering households and institutions and churches
+      mourn. All bending their faces towards the Everlasting Light, in one
+      faith, one cheering hope, called by one Lord, who has overcome the world,
+      and dieth no more! The sun sets; the autumn fades; life hastens with us
+      all. But we stand yet in our Master's vineyard. All the days of our
+      appointed time let us labour righteously, and pray and wait, till our
+      change come, that we may change only from virtue to virtue, from faith to
+      faith, and thus from glory to glory!"
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0139" id="linkimage-0139"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0192m.jpg" alt="0192m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0192.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0140" id="linkimage-0140"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0194m.jpg" alt="0194m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0194.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0011" id="link2H_4_0011"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      ROUND ABOUT SOME INDUSTRIAL, CENTRES.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0141" id="linkimage-0141"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0195m.jpg" alt="0195m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0195.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">I</span>T is not to the
+      manufacturing districts of England that the traveller in search of the
+      picturesque would most naturally repair. To him they are often a region of
+      tall chimneys and squalid-looking habitations, with a canopy of smoke
+      above and black refuse of coal and iron on the banks of polluted rivers
+      below. Something of this impression is due to the economy of railway
+      companies, which, for the most part, have chosen to enter great towns by
+      their least attractive suburbs, where land is cheapest. Hence, it is not
+      from the carriage-windows of the train that Leeds or Sheffield,
+      Wolverhampton, Birmingham, or Manchester should be judged. The traveller
+      who will alight and explore may find a wealth of natural beauty which
+      would astonish him.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Nowhere, perhaps, is the contrast&mdash;due chiefly, no doubt, to
+      geological structure&mdash;more apparent than on the edge of the "Black
+      Country" in Staffordshire. From Dudley Castle the views are more curiously
+      contrasted than in almost any other part of England. By night the whole
+      country is lighted up on one side by the flames from the furnaces, which
+      cover the country for many miles. By day the din of hammers and the clank
+      of wheels, the roar of traffic and the shriek of the steam-whistles surge
+      up, through the pall of smoke, upon the ear. Descend, and between the
+      ironworks and coalpits the ground is unsightly with refuse heaps, while
+      its frequent inequalities, and the bending, tottering buildings, show it
+      to be honeycombed with mines. Vegetation is rare; what there is, is
+      blackened and stunted; black also are the outsides of churches, chapels,
+      schools. For inhabitants of such a district to gain any sense of natural
+      beauty, they must be able at frequent intervals to escape; and, happily,
+      to do this is within the reach of most. Railway communication with every
+      part of England is constant and easy; and to know the difference that a
+      few miles' journey will make in the scene, one has only to reascend to
+      Dudley Castle, where it lies in the midst of its fair wooded domain.. Look
+      from it to the north, east, or south, and all is smoke and flame; but turn
+      to the west, and though the traces of unresting labour are still
+      discernible, they soon give way to a country of richly diversified charm:
+      glimpses are obtained of the beautiful valley of the Severn, the Wrekin
+      towers grandly not many miles away, and the Malvern hills are dim and blue
+      in the distance.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In other manufacturing centres, if the contrast is not so marked, yet
+      there is a similar accessibility to many a sequestered and lovely scene.
+      The nearness of the wildest and grandest Derbyshire scenery to busy,
+      unromantic Manchester has been pointed out in a previous chapter; and the
+      neighbourhood of the great Yorkshire centres of industry is full of
+      picturesque beauty. A little way out of Leeds, for instance, where the
+      Liverpool Canal passes over an embankment near to the river Aire, may be
+      found the scene of one of Turner's most charming sketches; and though the
+      locality bears evident marks of the great industrial invasion, much of the
+      beauty still remains. In the same valley, not far off, are the stately
+      ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, while the broad reach of river that encloses it,
+      and the green meadows on the bank, with the low wooded heights on either
+      side of the valley, suggest the memories of a day when the surroundings of
+      the old ecclesiastical building were such as the monks most dearly loved;
+      while Esholt Hall, some few miles higher up the river, at the extremity of
+      a noble avenue of elm trees, was, in its time, a nunnery on low-lying
+      ground, circled by an amphitheatre of hills, in a vale even now rich and
+      beautiful, and which once must have seemed the very abode of tranquillity
+      and peace.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      It is, indeed, no small boon to the artizans of Leeds, Bradford, and many
+      other crowded hives of industry in this part of England, that they are
+      within so easy a distance of scenes which, in natural beauty, may vie with
+      almost any in the land. Ivirkstall, as we have said, is close by the
+      former town; and its grounds are thronged on every holiday by busy
+      workers, who, whether intent or not on learning the appropriate lesson
+      from the mouldering walls and tower, are at least fully alive to the
+      advantages of fresh air, and of wide scope and range for healthful
+      amusement. The like may be said of other places, lying only a little
+      further off. There is Roundhay Park, for instance, one of the most
+      splendid domains in England, now, through the wise liberality of the Leeds
+      Corporation, the property of the people; while the public parks of many
+      other towns, as Bradford, Halifax, Barnsley, with Manchester, Liverpool,
+      Blackburn, gratify not only the instinct for recreation, but the desire
+      for beauty.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0142" id="linkimage-0142"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0197m.jpg" alt="0197m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0197.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Or again, our traveller, in his pause at Leeds, may take the opportunity
+      of visiting Ilkley, with its fine open moorland, where the brain-wearied
+      worker may range at will. Then, a little way beyond Ilkley, lie the fair
+      woods and noble heights encircling Bolton Abbey, where the Wharfe comes
+      down, as yet unpolluted, from the moorland beyond; while the form of the
+      White Doe of Rylstone, or the memory of the ill-fated heir of Egremont,
+      seems yet to haunt the scene.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little further again, our astonished friend comes upon a <i>Clapham
+      Junction</i>, but it is amid the silence of the hills! Ingleborough, with
+      its marvellous caves, too little known, with its companion heights,
+      Pen-y-gant and Whernside, rise from the valley: and every path is full of
+      beauty, especially that which leads into the heart of Craven, where bold
+      limestone scars, deep glens, and upland moors, with one deep, lonely tarn,
+      dear alike to dreamers and to anglers, yield a succession of pictures, of
+      which, among their many charms, not the least is their easy accessibility
+      from the neighbourhood of clanking mills and inky streams. For Ilkley,
+      Bolton, Harrogate, Craven, Clapham may all be reached by the busy worker
+      of Leeds or Bradford, and much of their beauty enjoyed, in the leisure of
+      a summer Saturday afternoon, or on a "Bank holiday." He who would be free
+      from excursionists, with their loud talk, their demonstrative ways, their
+      baskets and their bottles, must go another time; but even in those
+      holiday-hours there is much to interest. The "trippers" may be an
+      interruption to the dreamer, an annoyance to the sensitive; but it is good
+      that people whose lives are usually so hard-pressed and monotonous should
+      have the means of ennobling enjoyment within easy reach; and though
+      occasionally there may be an element of roughness or even intemperance in
+      the recreation, we should be unjust were we not to record our impression,
+      from what we have often seen, that there is a decided improvement in these
+      respects, and that the free access to hill and moor, to fine scenery and
+      pure air, has its part in checking those vices which spring up like evil
+      weeds in the unwholesome dwellings of a crowded population.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0143" id="linkimage-0143"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0198m.jpg" alt="0198m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0198.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The "Excursion Season," no doubt, has its drawbacks in Lancashire,
+      Yorkshire, London, and everywhere else. There are holidays that depress
+      rather than invigorate: the spirit of self-indulgence may adopt the
+      pretext of needed recreation, and the Lord's day is too often heedlessly
+      or wilfully disregarded; but on the whole it is good that God's fair world
+      should be thrown open to all who can enjoy its beauties; and that, as we
+      have seen, some of its richest beauties should lie at the very threshold
+      of the hardest workers in the most unromantic scenes.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0144" id="linkimage-0144"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8199.jpg" alt="8199 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8199.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The topic is almost inexhaustible; and the selection of places to be
+      visited in reasonable time, from these "centres of industry," would be
+      invidious to make. A little way beyond Leeds, as every one knows, lies
+      Harrogate, the high table-land where medicinal waters have for long
+      generations given to the place the fame of a true "city of Hygeia," while
+      we ourselves would still give the chief credit to the invigorating,
+      stimulating air, and to the almost inexhaustible interest of the
+      neighbourhood, occupying the mind of the visitor with a round of healthful
+      delights. The visit to Studley Park and Fountains Abbey will probably rank
+      among the chief of these. Again, as in the cases of Kirkstall and Bolton,
+      reverting to the past, we admire the taste and wisdom shown by the cowled
+      brotherhoods in mediæval times, in their choice of dwelling-places.
+      Something, indeed, of the beauty which we now see may have been the result
+      of their assiduous culture. It was part of their work to "make the
+      wilderness to smile;" but they had a rare faculty for lighting upon scenes
+      which, if not already beautiful, possessed an evident capability for
+      becoming so. At Fountains both nature and art seem to vie with each other;
+      and in the modern arrangement of the domain, the art may occasionally be
+      the more apparent. The artistic yields to the artificial; the ruins have
+      been maintained at the due stage of picturesqueness by careful oversight
+      and repair; and the carefully prepared "surprise," which awaits the
+      visitor at one stage of his progress through the grounds, is too
+      theatrical to permit even one of the fairest of pictures to have its full
+      effect. But, perhaps, all this is hypercritical, and, with every
+      deduction, this old Cistercian abbey is one of the most beautiful, as it
+      is one of the most complete mediæval monastic buildings in England. The
+      tower, unlike that of its sister abbey at Kirkstall, is little impaired by
+      the ravages of time, the plan of the edifice is easy to be traced; and the
+      light pillars and lofty arches of the Ladye Chapel give to the whole a
+      finishing touch of stateliness and grace. Then how pleasant to wander
+      through the noble avenues of Studley, to gaze upwards to the gigantic
+      spruce firs, or to climb the mound where linger the decaying forms of the
+      rugged yew trees&mdash;remnants, it is said, of the "seven sisters" that
+      spread their shade over the founders of the abbey, more than six hundred
+      years ago!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0145" id="linkimage-0145"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9200.jpg" alt="9200 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9200.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Still pursuing our way northwards, we reach the country of the Yorkshire
+      Dales, where the Swale, passing by Richmond, the Tees, on the edge of
+      Durham, and many smaller streams, descend from the eastern slope of the
+      Westmoreland moors. Both abound in wild and charming scenery: the upper
+      Tees-dale especially is singularly impressive. The river runs in its deep
+      rocky bed through alpine-looking green meadows, with clean whitewashed
+      cottages scattered here and there. Trees there are few or none, except a
+      small kind of fir; and in place of hedges, low stone walls mark the
+      boundaries of the fields. About five or six miles below its source, there
+      forms the striking waterfall "High Force," tumbling over a black basaltic
+      precipice, fifty feet high; while yet higher up the stream, where it
+      issues from a gloomy tarn on the edge of the Westmoreland moors,
+      descending for some two hundred feet over a steep, irregular staircase, so
+      to speak, of basalt, the weird wildness of the scene, in the midst of its
+      hilly amphitheatre, approaches sublimity. Caldron Snout is the quaint name
+      of this unique rapid, and the curious in geology, as well as the lover of
+      the picturesque, will be well repaid by a visit.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But by this time we have wandered some distance from our manufacturing
+      centres. If, however, we have left the Yorkshire district behind, we are
+      approaching the yet more black and busy coal districts.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0146" id="linkimage-0146"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0201m.jpg" alt="0201m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0201.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Teesdale itself has two sets of associations, and the same stream, whose
+      rocks and dales are so romantic in its earlier course, becomes, by the
+      time it reaches Stockton, a broad and inky flood, and so passes by
+      Middlesborough&mdash;that wonderfully progressive seat of the iron
+      manufacture&mdash;to the sea. We now pass on from town to town along the
+      coast, each busier, blacker than the last, but with glimpses of rich
+      beauty between, while the city of Durham, as seen from the rail, is one of
+      the noblest views of rock and river, cathedral, castle, and town, on which
+      the traveller's eye has ever rested. This river is the Weir; then the Tyne
+      is reached, and Newcastle, the "capital of the north," is entered over its
+      splendid High-Level Bridge.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We can imagine no better route for a pedestrian excursion than the way
+      from Denton Hall to Thirlwall Castle&mdash;about thirty-four miles; or, if
+      the tourist wishes to see the whole, let him put Dr. Bruce's Condensed
+      Guide and an Ordnance map into his knapsack, devote a week to the
+      exploration, and proceed by leisurely stages from Wallsend, on the Tyne,
+      to Bowness, on the Solway, a distance of seventy-three miles and a half.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But our chief object in visiting these great centres of industry is to
+      explore their neighbourhoods. Few towns in England are better worth a
+      prolonged visit than Newcastle-upon-Tyne; but its attraction to us now is,
+      that we can, at so short a distance from its busy streets, place ourselves
+      amid rural scenes of surpassing interest, as well on their own account as
+      for their historical associations.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0147" id="linkimage-0147"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0202m.jpg" alt="0202m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0202.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      First and foremost, of course, there is the Roman Wall, with its long line
+      of remains, still magnificent, and so varied from place to place, while
+      the scenery that surrounds them is so striking, that sea to sea classic
+      ground.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0148" id="linkimage-0148"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0203m.jpg" alt="0203m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0203.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      A stranger might suppose that, after the lapse of long centuries, all
+      these works, granting their existence once, must have disappeared. It is
+      not so: save in the western portion, there is scarcely an acre without
+      distinct traces; in many places all the lines sweep on together, parts in
+      wondrous preservation; while many of the recent excavations present
+      structures several feet high, giving one the idea of works in progress, so
+      fresh that we are tempted to think of the builders as away but for an
+      hour, perhaps to the noonday meal. To traverse the line of the wall is to
+      pass along one continuous platform, whence the visitor revels in a
+      succession of glorious panoramas.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Returning to the busy east coast, very charming is the transition from the
+      Tyne to the Coquet, loveliest of Northumbrian streams, as it flows down,
+      interesting glimpses into the past opened up at every stage. Few persons,
+      indeed, who have not visited the scene, have any notion of the variety and
+      value of the remains which have withstood the wear and tear of sixteen
+      centuries, during a great part of which period the wall was used as a
+      quarry by the dwellers in the district.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0149" id="linkimage-0149"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8203.jpg" alt="8203 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8203.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      In many places the traveller, especially if aided by some competent guide,
+      may discern the whole outline of the structure. It consisted of seven
+      parts, viz., the Roman Wall proper, comprising ditch on the extreme
+      northern side; (1) the military road; then the earthwork, consisting of
+      (2) a wall; then (3) a space more or less wide from thirty feet to
+      half-a-mile, middle of vallum, along of (4) a mound, or rampart, the
+      largest of three; (5) a second ditch; (6) another mound, the smallest; and
+      (7) yet another mound. The following section exhibits all in one view. Nor
+      is this all, at every three or four miles we have fortified camps of
+      several acres each, at every mile a castle, and between the castles
+      watch-towers. Moreover, there are roads and bridges, traces of villas,
+      gardens, and burial-places, making almost every inch from Thirlmoor, on
+      the verge of the Cheviots, at the foot of heathery hills and through
+      richly wooded vales, to Rothbury&mdash;already a famous place of resort
+      from the district, and evidently destined to become more frequented from
+      its surpassing beauty of situation, encircled by romantic hills, with the
+      bright river running swiftly between.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0150" id="linkimage-0150"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0204m.jpg" alt="0204m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0204.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Thence the Coquet descends in many a winding by scenes of the richest
+      sylvan loveliness to Warkworth, renowned for its hermitage, which is
+      still, as the old Percy ballad describes it, "deep hewn within a craggy
+      cliff, and overhung with wood." And so we reach the sea, where Coquet
+      Island, with its lighthouse, lies amid the gleaming waters, scarcely
+      suggesting, as we gaze upon it in the fair sunshine, how terribly the
+      storm sometimes there rages, or how those dark rocks are chafed by the
+      angry billows!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But for the full splendour of cliff and ocean scenery we journey still a
+      little northward, and come to Dunstanborough Castle. Here a dark ridge of
+      basalt rises in pillared form sheer from the sea, and in the words of
+      Alarmion, "the whitening breakers," surging with ceaseless thunder into
+      the caves which pierce the cliffs, "sound near,"
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "As boiling through the rocks they roar
+     On Dunstanborough's caverned shore."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0151" id="linkimage-0151"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0205m.jpg" alt="0205m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0205.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The view from the "Lilburn's Tower" in this ruined castle, commanding
+      landwards the broad purple moors, extending in many an undulation to the
+      rounded Cheviots, glimmering blue in the distance, and looking seawards
+      over the restless ocean, beating ever at the foot of the black columns,
+      while sea-birds are ceaselessly wheeling in mid air with shrill outcries,
+      not unfairly vies with the wild magnificence of Tintagel, as described in
+      our earlier pages.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The two coast scenes are, perhaps, unequalled in the British Islands: the
+      difference is that, while the Cornish scene lies in far-away seclusion,
+      this of Northumberland is close by one of the chief lines of traffic, and
+      within accessible distance of crowded populations. Yet even Cornwall is a
+      great industrial centre. Its mining industries are never far away from us.
+      Its wildest cliffs are pierced by shafts and adits leading down, as in the
+      Botallack Mine, to labyrinthine passages far under the bed of the sea,
+      where the miners can hear overhead the rush of the waves and the grinding
+      together of the huge boulders.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We have now reached the limit of our purpose, which was to show how near
+      to the doors of the million is some of the most striking scenery of our
+      land. Else from Dunstanborough Castle we could have pursued our way
+      northwards at least as far as Bamborough Castle, not so much for the sake
+      of admiring its noble ramparts and towers&mdash;once a fortress, now a
+      temple of charity&mdash;or of gazing again upon the glories of cliff and
+      sea, as of looking out across the waters to those rocky isles which, in
+      our own time, have witnessed one of those deeds of unconscious heroism
+      which do honour to our nature. For it was from one of those sea-beaten
+      crags that, on the 5th of September, 1838, Grace Darling set forth upon
+      her errand of mercy amid the raging waters, to rescue the survivors of the
+      shipwrecked Forfarshire. "Her musical name," it has been said, "is the
+      burden of a beautiful story of that love of man which is the love of
+      Christ translated into human language and deeds." Four years after that
+      great exploit the brave and gentle maiden died of consumption, brought on,
+      it is said, by a visit to her brother, keeper of the lighthouse on Coquet
+      Island: but she has left among our island race an imperishable name. Let
+      us conclude these random rovings by a visit to her monument in Bamborough
+      churchyard. Her figure lies as it were in slumber, an oar upon her
+      shoulder, beneath a Gothic canopy, within sight and hearing of the waves.
+      On the bright day of our visit the waves were murmuring and sparkling far
+      below: the craggy islets in the distance were touched with sunlight, and
+      we turned away, reminded less of the heroism that braved the storm, than
+      of the heavenly home and the everlasting rest. "I saw a new heaven and a
+      new earth, for the first heaven and the first earth were passed away; and
+      there was no more sea."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0152" id="linkimage-0152"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0206m.jpg" alt="0206m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0206.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0012" id="link2H_4_0012"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      SNOWDONIA AND SOUTH WALES.
+    </h2>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">S</span>ome of the holiday
+      excursions which live most pleasantly in memory, are those short "runs" of
+      three or four days, to the mountain or the sea, which, it may be, some
+      unexpected holiday has enabled us to take, or some "happy thought" has
+      suggested as likely to be beneficial to mind and body. The amount of
+      enjoyment that can be compressed into so brief a space of time is quite
+      wonderful, provided only the place of visit be wisely chosen, the days
+      long, and the weather suitable.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In one such little tour, so full of interest that it is hard to believe it
+      to have extended only from Tuesday morning to Friday afternoon, we, some
+      years ago, made our first acquaintance with Snowdon. Starting from
+      Caernarvon before breakfast, we walked to Llanberis, by a road leading
+      gradually upwards beside a wild mountain torrent, till the lake from which
+      it issues was reached, and the impression of the mountain grandeur first
+      fully felt.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The ascent of Snowdon has been so often described, that we need only say
+      it was unexpectedly easy. The beauty of the path with which it began, up
+      the bank of a mountain torrent ending in a strange and lovely waterfall,
+      beguiled the first portion of the way, and the latter part opened up
+      continually such glorious views, that the fatigue was lightened, if the
+      progress was a little impeded, by long pauses of admiration. At length we
+      reached Moel-y-Wyddfa, "the far-seen summit," and were upon the highest
+      spot in England and Wales.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0153" id="linkimage-0153"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0208m.jpg" alt="0208m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0208.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0154" id="linkimage-0154"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0209m.jpg" alt="0209m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0209.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Of the near prospect the chief wonder, to us, was the number of lakes, or
+      llyns, visible. For this we were unprepared, and the endlessly diversified
+      outline of these gleaming pools contrasted strikingly with the dark
+      mountain masses amid which they lay. The distant views were at first very
+      clear&mdash;Skiddaw (so said our guide) in the north, the Isle of Man in
+      the west, appearing like a shadow on a sunlit sea, Cader Idris and
+      Plinlimmon in the south, with the valleys lying green among the hills, and
+      here and there the line of some sparkling stream, while the habitations of
+      man were dwarfed to insignificance, or indicated only by dim patches, as
+      of smoke hanging in the air. Suddenly a chilling breeze passed across the
+      mountain top, and we were glad to find shelter in one of the little huts
+      which crown&mdash;we will not say adorn&mdash;the peak. As the mists now
+      began to gather, it was judged time to descend. The path, little more than
+      eight feet wide, lay along one of the narrowest spurs of the mountain,
+      while on both sides are tremendous precipices. To walk over this path in
+      clear, calm weather would be a trial to the nerves; but now the mists were
+      seething and whirling below, ever and anon rapidly parting, so as to
+      disclose glimpses of bare rocks apparently rising out of an ocean of
+      cloud, or miniature meadows of sunny green at unknown depths, or,
+      strangest of all, leaden-coloured lakelets, each enclosed by its bank of
+      fog. It was a weird scene, and though the path itself was tolerably free
+      from mist, the sight of these abysses on either hand, suggesting the
+      consequences of a slip, kept us all very quiet, very wary in our steps;
+      and we were thankful when we reached the point where the mountain spur
+      expands into a broad, safe, though steep and rugged, hill. Here we
+      descended swiftly, and soon found ourselves upon the turnpike road to
+      Beddgelert, our destination.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      This level dell, set in the midst of mountains, which rise on all sides,
+      clothed at their base with rich woods, and then towering upwards, bare and
+      rugged against the sky, surpassed all our expectations by the magnificence
+      of its environment. The faithful hound, so well known in the stories of
+      many lands, has here a tomb, in the very midst of the valley, overhung by
+      a group of willows. Perhaps the legend is but a myth; it exists, we are
+      told, in Persian, and in the dialects of India. The story as it stands is
+      not only affecting, but contains a noble lesson; and it was in no
+      sceptical spirit that we read Southey's fine ballad over again, at the
+      traditionary scene of the incident. We ended the day by a stroll up to
+      Pont Aberglaslyn, that most romantic of defiles, the only defect of which
+      is, that it is too short. The road leads on one side by the "blue
+      torrent," which dashes through the pass with headlong, tremendous force;
+      on the other by towering mountain sides, clothed with lichen and a scanty
+      covering of mosses and shrubs. A marked feature in these rocks is the
+      evident trace of glacier action, to which Dr. Buckland has called
+      attention by a memorandum in his own handwriting, framed and glazed, in
+      the hotel. The bridge at the extremity of the pass, carrying the old road
+      to Tan-y-bwlch, has been thus described by Miss Costello: "There, forty
+      feet above the river, hangs in air apparently, just touching the two
+      mountains, a one-arched bridge, clothed with a robe of ivy, whose festoons
+      wave to and fro, as if the action of her leap had disturbed the drapery of
+      some nymph, whose form had hardened into stone as she performed the
+      wondrous feat. Below, beyond, around, the waters rave and foam and rush,
+      and here for the first time I recognised the beautiful colour, familiar to
+      my eye in the Pyrenees, which has given the name of the 'Blue Pool' to
+      this lovely spot." The scene was one in which to rest and muse after the
+      exertions and excitements of the morning; the only disturbance of the
+      quiet being the pertinacity of the little sellers of spar and rock
+      fragments, or these failing, of woollen socks, with equal readiness to
+      sing us a song, if no purchasers could be found for their other wares! It
+      must in fairness be added that the song was "sweet and low," and
+      harmonised well with the now gathering twilight, and the sound of rushing
+      waters.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0155" id="linkimage-0155"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0211m.jpg" alt="0211m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0211.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      The next day's expedition must be more briefly narrated. Somewhat tired by
+      the mountain climbing, we were content with a quiet walk up Nant Gwynant,
+      descending by the eastern half of the Pass of Llanberis to Cape! Curig,
+      and thence, beside the river Lugwy, to Bettws-y-Coed. Two lakes, passed
+      soon after leaving Beddgelert, are of the most exquisite beauty, and the
+      views of Snowdon, opened up a little beyond them, are of splendour
+      unsurpassed.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Reaching Pen-y-gwryd a little below the head of the Llanberis Pass, we
+      pursued a route of a totally different character to Capel Curig. For the
+      luxuriant beauty of Nant Gwynant we had now the sublimity of bare rock and
+      crag; but there was something, we must suppose, uncongenial with our mood
+      in the bleakness of the scene; at any rate, this part of the pass
+      disappointed us. We have since found that the true grandeur of the defile
+      is in the other, or western part, between Pen-y-gwryd and Llanberis. The
+      rest at Capel Curig was specially welcome, and thence there was no want of
+      interest in the route, on the bank of the romantic Lugwy. The Swallow
+      waterfall must by all means be visited, repelled as is the true lover of
+      nature by all those little arrangements that make the place a show&mdash;the
+      urchin who points out the locked gate, for fear it should be missed, the
+      keen-eyed dame with the keys, the guide to the torrent s brink, apparently
+      solicitous lest any visitor should discover for himself the chief points
+      of view, the miscellaneous guard of children, with a general expectancy of
+      coppers.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0156" id="linkimage-0156"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0214m.jpg" alt="0214m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0214.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      All this we did not like; and yet nothing could well be finer than the
+      plunge of the river, with roar and foam, over the vast mass of rocks,
+      slanting in rugged, picturesque confusion from the summit to the foot of
+      the fall, and breaking the stream in its descent into numberless cascades
+      and tiny rapids. The picture is one of marvellous diversity, and when the
+      river is swollen by rain the rush and roar are tremendous.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Our day's journey was nearly over, and another hours walk, or a little
+      mure, brought us to that "paradise of painters," the Royal Oak at Bettws
+      y-Coed. Happily there was room for us, though the inn seemed crowded by
+      artists&mdash;many of them men of world-wide reputation&mdash;who come
+      again and again to this fair valley, always to find something new in form
+      or colour, light or shade. The next day was spent in rambling about the
+      neighbourhood; and almost everywhere we found artists at work with easel
+      and umbrella. Pont-y-pair was to us as an old friend, so often had we seen
+      its semblance in exhibition-rooms and books of "landscape scenery." Few
+      subjects, indeed, could be more adapted to the painter.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0157" id="linkimage-0157"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0215m.jpg" alt="0215m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0215.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      But if this bridge, with its many lovely points of view, struck us with a
+      sense of familiarity, we were startled, as well as delighted, by the
+      exceeding beauty of the Fairies' Glen. A tributary stream here comes down
+      to the Lugwy between high wooded banks, and over mossy rocks, which at
+      many points can easily be crossed; the course of the rapid crystal stream
+      for a long distance is almost straight, and the perspective from below is
+      singularly fine.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The holiday, rich as it had been in delights, was now almost over, and the
+      last day was mainly spent in a water excursion, which a railway, since
+      constructed, has rendered less familiar, but which even yet we venture to
+      commend. The pretty little town of Llanrwst being passed, we pursued a
+      pleasant road between the river Conway on one side and bosky cliffs on the
+      other, as far as Trefriw, where a small steamer was waiting the turn of
+      the tide to proceed down the river to Conway town. The sail on a fine day
+      is one of the most charming of excursions, the scenery on both sides being
+      of much interest, and the quiet rest on board the steamer being very
+      agreeable after three days' walking and climbing.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0158" id="linkimage-0158"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0216m.jpg" alt="0216m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0216.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      From Trefriw, we were told, a very short excursion, up to Llyn Geirionydd,
+      would have brought us to one of the very finest points of view in all
+      North Wales, the range of Snowdon, and the scarcely less imposing Moel
+      Siabod, being thence seen in all their majesty. But it is always at once a
+      regret and an alleviation, in leaving beautiful scenes, that much is left
+      unvisited&mdash;regret that so many fair scenes have been missed,
+      alleviation, because the very fact may form so good a reason some day for
+      revisiting the place! As it was, with some time at our disposal after
+      reaching Conway, we visited the splendid ruins of the castle, then went by
+      rail to Llandudno, and after a hasty glance at the promenade by the bay,
+      finished the memorable four days' visit to Wales by a bracing walk of six
+      miles, round the Great Orme's Head on the path overlooking the sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The holiday had been so successful, that on the next similar opportunity
+      it occurred to us to spend the few days at command in South Wales. We are
+      bound, however, to confess that the charm was felt to be inferior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Possibly we expected another Snowdonia, and so deserved to be
+      disappointed. Nature does not repeat herself, and though the heights of
+      Plinlimmon are commanding when attained, we do not recommend the traveller
+      whose time is precious to traverse the intolerably circuitous path, amid
+      bogs and morasses, which leads him wearily at last to the summit. The
+      fresh breeze, and the wide prospect from the mountain's top are, to some
+      extent, a compensation for the toil; while it is interesting to explore
+      the sources of some of the many rivers which descend from the mighty store
+      of waters embosomed in this hill&mdash;the Severn and the Wye being chief.
+      But the longing for the beautiful was unsatisfied until we reached
+      Pont-y-Mynach, the Monk's P>ridge; better known, perhaps, as "the Devil's
+      Bridge." The former name denotes the fact that the monks of Strata Florida
+      Abbey constructed the bridge: the latter, we suppose, expresses the simple
+      wonder of the rustics, who could not conceive the daring work as wrought
+      by any power less than supernatural. Why should they have taken for
+      granted that the power was evil? We presume that the explanation is to be
+      found in the sense of terror excited by the fury and the roar of the
+      torrent. There is an awe akin to joy: a solemn yet glad uplifting of the
+      soul, as at the sight of the starry heavens; and who could attribute the
+      splendours of the firmament to any but a beneficent Creator? But amid the
+      wilder scenes of this earth, there is not only the mere feeling of danger,
+      but a dread which oppresses the spirit&mdash;a "fear that hath torment,"&mdash;an
+      instinctive sense of sin, which has led men in such localities to imagine
+      a <i>malignant</i> spirit at work.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      A little way beyond the bridge are the falls of the Rheidol&mdash;a series
+      of cascades, perhaps the most picturesque in Wales, not from the mass of
+      water so much as from the magnificence of the narrow, rocky ravine, with
+      its wealth of foliage. Perhaps the charms of this fair glen, with the
+      comforts of the splendidly-placed hotel above, were heightened by the
+      recollection of the long morning among the morasses of Plinlimmon; but our
+      feeling as we sat at eventide watching the sunset, and listening to the
+      roar of waters, was to surrender all the rest of our brief excursion, and
+      to give ourselves there to the <i>dolce far niente</i> of three long
+      summer days!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      South Wales is so conveniently intersected with railways, that it is
+      almost too easy for the tourist to pass from point to point. The preceding
+      day, on a south-easterly slope of Plinlimmon, we had stood at the source
+      of the Wye, and the desire possessed us to trace the progress of that
+      river for awhile, to see if in its early meanderings it had the beauty
+      which we knew so well to belong to it in its later and more familiar
+      course. The excursion was not a disappointing one. It leads through some
+      of the most primitive of Welsh districts: Builth, which in due time we
+      reached, appeared quaint and attractive, and Talgarth, where our long walk
+      was finished, might have tempted us, under other circumstances, to a
+      longer stay, to explore the "Black Mountains," a wonderfully fine range of
+      hills, girt with woods, pierced by lovely glens, and extending in ranges
+      of lofty moorland for many miles.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0159" id="linkimage-0159"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8218.jpg" alt="8218 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8218.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      A short railway journey now brought us to Brecon, so nobly placed in the
+      midst of its mountain amphitheatre as to invite a longer stay: but we had
+      to hurry on, anxious to reach the far-famed Vale of Neath. A very wild
+      walk led upwards for many weary miles, as it seemed, from Brecon to Maen
+      Llia, the "Llia Stone," near which is the source of the Llia, one of the
+      streams whose confluence form the Neath. Descending rapidly, we soon came
+      to the point where the Llia is joined from the north-east by the
+      Dringarth, another confluent.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0160" id="linkimage-0160"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9218.jpg" alt="9218 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9218.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      At Y-strad-fellte, a little further on, the glory of the mountain vale
+      began to open out. We passed under the shadow of the crags to the east, as
+      far as to the spot where, at a break in the rocky rampart, the Hepste,
+      another tributary, hurries to meet the stream, forming a fine waterfall.
+      At Crag-y-Dinas, a huge limestone rock, commanding from its summit both
+      the upper glen and the lower valley as far as Swansea Bay, the beauty of
+      the scene is at its height. Hardly any combination of scenery could be
+      richer in its exquisite variety. The road now lay between these united
+      streams and the Neath proper, which soon is joined from the western side
+      by the Pyrrdin, up whose rocky glen we turned for the sake of its two
+      charming cascades, the "Lady's" and the "Crooked" Fall.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      In fact, the whole neighbourhood teems with cataracts, many of exceeding
+      beauty, and a day might well be spent in exploring the rocky dingles,
+      through which the hurrying streams descend, until at Pont-Nedd-fechan,
+      "the Little Bridge of Neath," they meet and mingle in one.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The bridge is of one arch, thrown across the ravine near the point of
+      confluence; it is festooned with drooping ivy, which almost reaches the
+      surface of the stream, and in its secluded loveliness this little Welsh
+      Lauterbrunnen, a village of many waters among the hills, may fairly
+      compare with many scenes far better known to fame.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      The route down the valley to the town of Neath and the port of Briton
+      Ferry, is rich in varied beauty. The river runs between the high road and
+      the railway, with, in some part of its course, a canal. The surrounding
+      hills are lovely in outline and richly wooded; and until we reach the
+      seats of industry near the port, the water, lying in long reaches, or
+      hurrying over its rocky bed, is crystal-clear. At a former time Briton
+      Ferry was lovely beyond almost any other seaside resort. The river, here
+      expanded to a noble breadth, flowed between lofty wooded cliffs to an open
+      bay. The surrounding hills were crowned with noble oaks, and the romantic
+      little village, protected from the north and east, had all the attractions
+      not only of its own exceeding beauty, but of a mild climate, and of air
+      exceptionally pure. All this is changed!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0162" id="linkimage-0162"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0220m.jpg" alt="0220m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0220.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Coal, copper, iron dominate the scene. The cliffs and the climate are
+      there, and Swansea Bay is beautiful in calm or storm: but the oaks have
+      fallen, the nooks and elens in the hills have become squalid in their
+      bareness, the streams are polluted, the air is murky; but the docks are
+      admirable, and the place is "rising rapidly." There is a divineness in
+      man's industry, as well as in nature's beauty.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "The old order yieldeth, giving place to new,
+     And God fulfils Himself in many ways."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      We hurry away from the coalfields to where Carmarthen stands high on Towy
+      bank, grandly overlooking the course of the river to the sea. Of the bay
+      named from this ancient capital, the most beautiful part, perhaps, is
+      where Tenby, from its rocky promontory, overlooks the sea. As we
+      terminated our little tour in North Wales at Llandudno, so here at Tenby
+      we bade farewell to the southern part of the Principality. But before
+      leaving there was time for one little excursion along the coast, superb
+      beyond all our expectation, especially for the first few miles, where the
+      mountain limestone fronts the sea with bold, cave-pierced cliff. Our
+      ramble terminated at Manor-beer Castle, one of the most extensive and
+      complete of feudal fortresses in Great Britain. Perhaps there is no ruin
+      of the kind in which the arrangements for residence as well as for defence
+      can be so clearly traced, and certainly there are few which more nobly
+      command the shore below.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      But our brief excursion was over. Some of the most picturesque parts of
+      South Wales were, perforce, left unvisited&mdash;especially Tintern, that
+      loveliest of British abbeys. Yet much had been seen to quicken the sense
+      of beauty; while the glimpse of busy industry given us along the south
+      coast, had quickened our desire to learn something more of the great
+      population gathered by its docks and ports, its mines and furnaces. For it
+      is the human interest which, wherever we may travel, must gradually become
+      supreme, and nowhere more truly than in South Wales. The heroism often
+      manifested in the midst of lowliest toil was never more strikingly
+      illustrated than in a recent incident which has made the name of
+      Pontypridd a household word in England. All know the story of the
+      imprisoned miners, and the men who bravely volunteered to rescue them,
+      daring the peril of compressed air, inflammable gas, and the pent-up
+      floods of water. "Four men"&mdash;let the tale never be forgotten at
+      British firesides!&mdash;"from one o'clock in the afternoon of Thursday
+      the 19th of April, 1877, until three o'clock in the afternoon of the next
+      day, worked on amid all these accumulated dangers until the rescue of
+      their comrades was complete. Twenty-two others were only second to those
+      four men&mdash;eleven in taking an actual share in the work of cutting
+      through the barrier of coal, and eleven others in constant presence and
+      superintendence. It was an intense exercise of self-devotion, patience,
+      and deliberate courage&mdash;a concentration, as it were, of qualities
+      which could only be acquired by the habitual exercise of these qualities
+      in every-day life, and perhaps their cultivation through many
+      generations." Happily they were successful, and the nation feels it to be
+      but a worthy recognition of such heroism, that a new order of merit,
+      instituted to do honour to gallantry in saving life on land, has been
+      inaugurated by the gift of "the Albert Medal" to those Welsh colliers.
+      Never has decoration been better earned! "Not the least satisfaction,
+      however, of those who receive it ought to be, that they have been the
+      means of drawing public attention and public honour to the whole class of
+      brave and unselfish deeds of which they have furnished one of the most
+      conspicuous of instances. There are no signs that the struggle of
+      civilisation with nature will cease to demand its victims. The progress of
+      mankind still depends, and must long depend, upon the bravery and
+      unselfishness with which unknown perils are encountered; and, perhaps, as
+      science opens up further fields of experiment and investigation, still
+      bolder adventures may be demanded. It was but right that the stamp of
+      national honour should be formally placed upon all such deeds; and the
+      Welsh miners deserve the thanks, not merely of their comrades, but of
+      their country, for having established in public esteem a new and permanent
+      order of merit." *
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     * <i>The Times</i>, August 8, 1877.
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0163" id="linkimage-0163"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0222m.jpg" alt="0222m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0222.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="link2H_4_0013" id="link2H_4_0013"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 4em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h2>
+      THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
+    </h2>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0165" id="linkimage-0165"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0225m.jpg" alt="0225m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0225.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p class="pfirst">
+      <span class="dropcap" style="font-size: 4.00em">S</span>IR Walter Scott
+      somewhere speaks of the Isle of Wight as a "beautiful island, which he who
+      once sees never forgets, through whatever part of the wide world his
+      future path may lead him." Whether this description be over-coloured or
+      no, it is certain that there is hardly any spot of English ground so well
+      adapted for a ramble of three or four days. There cannot be a more
+      charming excursion than a cruise round "the Island," as inhabitants of the
+      neighbouring counties fondly call it, when the atmosphere is clear, and
+      light breezes stir the water, without raising it to roughness. The Solent,
+      with its richly varied shores, and its flotilla of white-sailed yachts, is
+      first traversed: then round the Needles we meet the open sea, gazing as we
+      pass by at the quaint, almost grotesque, forms of those pointed chalk
+      pillars, the evident relics of cliffs worn away by the action of the sea.
+      Scratchell's Bay, with its chalk precipices, is passed; and other bays,
+      with their richly coloured, variegated sands, excite new interest and
+      wonder. Then the Chines, or ravines in the cliff, diversify the outline;
+      and so we reach the Undercliffe, that line of coast, whose perfect
+      protection from the winter's cold, with the fresh purity of the
+      sea-breeze, render it almost unique as a residence for the consumptive.
+      Niton at one extremity, and Ventnor and Bonchurch at the other, with the
+      five miles between, offering a succession of views unsurpassed in beauty.
+      "The beautiful places," writes Lord Jeffrey, "are either where the cliffs
+      sink deep into bays and valleys, opening like a theatre to the sun and the
+      sea, or where there has been a terrace of low land formed at their feet,
+      which stretches under the shelter of that enormous wall like a rich garden
+      plot, all roughened over with masses of rock fallen in distant ages, and
+      overshadowed with thickets of myrtle and rose and geranium, which all grow
+      wild here in great luxuriance and profusion."
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0166" id="linkimage-0166"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0226m.jpg" alt="0226m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0226.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      After leaving Bonchurch, Shanklin Chine, Sandown Bay, terminated on the
+      north by the magnificent chalk headland called Culver Cliff, or the Cliff
+      of the White Dove, terminate the most beautiful part of this little
+      voyage. After rounding one or two more headlands, Ryde comes into sight,
+      and loyal travellers begin to look out for Whipping-ham church tower, and
+      the woods and palace of Osborne; soon after passing which Cowes is
+      reached, and the excursion is over.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0167" id="linkimage-0167"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9226.jpg" alt="9226 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9226.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      The interior of the island has many points of interest, but three or four
+      days are sufficient for their exploration. A most interesting excursion is
+      that to Newport and Carisbrooke Castle, so closely connected with the
+      annals of Charles I. The visitor to Blackgang Chine will probably come to
+      the conclusion that this and similar fissures in the chalk cliffs have
+      been extolled beyond their deserts. There are combes in Devonshire,
+      unknown to fame, far superior to either Blackgang or Shanklin, and at the
+      latter especially, the elaborate artificiality of the whole scene is a
+      little repellant, while the celebrated waterfall is commonly but a
+      trickling rill. Blackgang is finer as a chasm, but the cascade is equally
+      insignificant. The charm of "the Island" is, after all, in the climate,
+      the colouring, and the glorious sea.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0168" id="linkimage-0168"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0227m.jpg" alt="0227m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0227.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      Few walks of richer or more luxuriant beauty can be found within the same
+      compass than that from Blackgang Chine to Ventnor. First we reach the
+      Sandrock Spring, a chalybeate fountain in a cliff; the water, it is said,
+      contains alum and iron in an unexampled proportion. There is a cottage,
+      hard by, displaying a few tumblers, but customers do not seem to be many.
+      As a spa, Sandrock is too plainly a failure; and for real invigoration to
+      health and spirits, we would rather try the pure ozone on the summit of
+      St. Catherine's Cliff, than imbibe any quantity of the chalybeate. Let the
+      visitor stay long and inhale the glorious sea-breeze. He will indeed have
+      pure air below, that is, unless the breezes, as is their wont sometimes,
+      are stirring the chalk in dust clouds&mdash;a kind of white simoom!
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0169" id="linkimage-0169"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9228.jpg" alt="9228 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9228.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      But at the best, the air of the Undercliffe is soft and languid,
+      suggestive to the robust of delicate lungs; while yet those who are thus
+      afflicted cannot be too thankful for a shelter where the atmosphere is as
+      mild as it is pure, and the scene at every point, by land and sea, most
+      beautiful.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      We descend from St. Catherine's down to Niton, and thence pursue our way
+      by Puckaster and Mirables Lawrence, where the church was once accounted
+      the smallest in England (twelve by twenty feet in the interior), but is
+      now enlarged by the addition of a chancel.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      "Improvement" has been direfully at work since first we visited this
+      little village and drank of the cool waters of "St. Lawrence's Well." The
+      white, well-kept road is more level than the old picturesque path; instead
+      of ivied cottages there are now shining villas with green blinds, walls
+      for hedgerows, and, worst of all, the gushing spring flows somewhere in an
+      inclosure to which there seems no access. It is a pity to have thus
+      modernised so rustic and lovely a spot. But the flowers are still there,
+      perfuming the air; and the myrtles and the fuchsias are not shrubs, but
+      trees, and the luxuriance of southern climes surrounds us. As we walk
+      along we speculate on the convulsions of nature that have prepared for us
+      this little paradise. The undulating ground at our feet is evidently
+      formed of vast masses of chalk and clay, which, at former periods, have
+      broken bodily from the face of the cliff, slipped forward, and sunk down.
+      The surface, disintegrated by aqueous and atmospheric action, has formed a
+      kind of irregular terrace, the soil of which is most favourable to
+      vegetation. The ground is now firm, the process of disintegration from
+      above seems almost arrested; but there are even yet memories of landslips
+      on a large scale, of which the traces are still visible.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0170" id="linkimage-0170"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="fig" style="width:65%;">
+      <img src="images/0229m.jpg" alt="0229m " width="100%" /><br />
+    </div>
+    <h4>
+      <a href="images/0229.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </h4>
+    <p>
+      There is one walk in the island which no tolerable pedestrian should omit&mdash;that
+      from Newport to Freshwater, or Alum Bay. Leaving the main road at
+      Carisbrooke, a footpath leads upwards through fields richly cultivated and
+      gay with wild flowers. The open down which forms the backbone of the
+      island is soon reached. Keeping along the ridge the tourist will for some
+      miles enjoy a scene almost unique in its beauty. The soft delicate curves
+      and undulations which characterise the chalk downs, and which the
+      unobservant traveller so often overlooks, may be seen in perfection.
+      Nestling in many a sheltered nook are farm-houses, hamlets, and churches,
+      embosomed in trees. Patches of fern, gorse, and heather diversify the
+      landscape. And far below, on either side, is the sea&mdash;on the right
+      hand the Solent, on the left the English Channel. After a while Freshwater
+      comes into view, with its | line of cliffs rising sheer from the waves,
+      and about half-a-mile inland the sheltered nook which has been made a
+      classic spot as the home of the Poet Laureate. His description of it will
+      be familiar to many readers.
+    </p>
+<pre xml:space="preserve">
+     "Where, far from smoke and noise of town,
+     I watch the twilight falling brown
+     All round a careless ordered garden.
+     Close to the ridge of a noble down.
+     You'll have no scandal while you dine,
+     But honest talk and wholesome wine,
+     And only hear the magpie gossip
+     Garrulous under a roof of pine.
+     For groves of pine on either hand,
+     To break the blast of winter, stand;
+     And further on, the hoary Channel
+     Tumbles a breaker on chalk and sand."
+</pre>
+    <p>
+      A couple of miles more and we reach Alum Bay and the Needles, spoken of on
+      a preceding page.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0171" id="linkimage-0171"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figleft" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/9230.jpg" alt="9230 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/9230.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      Half a century ago few contributions to our religious literature were more
+      widely and deservedly popular than Legh Richmond's "short and simple
+      annals of the poor." Though of late years they have lost something of
+      their popularity, yet many visitors to the island make a pilgrimage to
+      Brading, with which the name of the devout author is inseparably
+      connected. The grave of little Jane, the Young Cottager, is in the
+      churchyard here: that of the "Dairyman's Daughter," Elizabeth Vallbridge,
+      is at Arreton, three or four miles away towards the interior.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      Here for the present our rambles must end.
+    </p>
+    <p>
+      <br /><br />
+    </p>
+    <hr />
+    <p>
+      <a name="linkimage-0172" id="linkimage-0172"> </a>
+    </p>
+    <div class="figright" style="width:50%;">
+      <img src="images/8230.jpg" alt="8230 " width="100%" /><br /><a
+      href="images/8230.jpg"><i>Original Size</i></a>
+    </div>
+    <p>
+      It is impossible to retrace them without feeling how very beautiful
+      England is. Some of her beauties are little known. Others are not
+      appreciated as they deserve. Many an obscure and unvisited nook has a
+      loveliness or a grandeur or a picturesqueness beyond that of the most
+      famous show-places. But the glory of our island is that so many of its
+      loveliest spots are associated with the memory of great names and noble
+      deeds. The glory of England is in its people; but its people may well, in
+      turn, exult and give thanks to God that He has given them so fair and
+      splendid a home.
+    </p>
+    <div style="height: 6em;">
+      <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />
+    </div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's English Pictures, by Samuel Manning and S. G. Green
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+</pre>
+
+  </body>
+</html>
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+Project Gutenberg's English Pictures, by Samuel Manning and S. G. Green
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: English Pictures
+
+Author: Samuel Manning
+        S. G. Green
+
+Release Date: March 7, 2014 [EBook #45065]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ENGLISH PICTURES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger from page images generously
+provided by The Internet Archive
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ENGLISH PICTURES
+
+By The Rev. Samuel Manning, LL.D., and The Rev. S. G. Green, D.D.
+
+1889
+
+[Illustration: 0006]
+
+[Illustration: 0007]
+
+[Illustration: 0009]
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE:
+
+A British nobleman--so runs the story--when travelling in Switzerland
+was so impressed by the gloomy grandeur of one of the mountain passes,
+that he exclaimed, "Surely there is no other view like this in the world!"
+
+"I am told, my lord," said the guide, "that there is but one,"--naming a
+view in the Scottish I lighlands.
+
+"Why," replied the nobleman, "that is on my own estate, and I have never
+seen it!"
+
+The anecdote may be doubtful historically, but in idea it is true. _Non
+e vero, ma ben trovato_.
+
+The number of Englishmen who really know their own country is
+comparatively few; and no doubt there are motives quite independent
+of the love for natural beauty, which lead the hard-worked men of our
+generation to escape at intervals to as great a distance as possible
+from the scene of their daily occupations. The effort for this, however,
+often leads to yet more harassing distractions; and many return from the
+eager excitements of foreign travel more jaded and careworn than when
+they began their journey. Nor is it so easy to escape after all! The
+great event of the day at every Continental hotel is the arrival of _The
+Times_; and you are at least as likely to meet your next neighbour on
+a Rhine steamboat or at the Rigi Kulm, as in the valley of the Upper
+Thames, or at Boscastle or Tintagel.
+
+It is true that our rivers do not flow from glaciers, and our proudest
+mountain heights may easily be scaled in an afternoon; we have no gloomy
+grandeur of pine forests or stupendous background of snowy peaks; but
+there is beauty, and sublimity too, for those who know "how to observe"
+the earth, and sea, and sky: and in less than a day's journey, the tired
+dweller in cities may find many a sequestered retreat, where pure air
+and lovely scenery will bring to his spirit a refreshment all the
+more welcome because associated with the language, the habits, and the
+religion of his own home.
+
+The volume now in the reader's hand is intended to recall, by the aid of
+pen and pencil, some English scenes in which such refreshing influences
+have in the past been enjoyed. And, as every wanderer over English
+ground finds himself in the footsteps of the great and good, ample use
+has been made of the biographical and literary associations which these
+scenes continually recall.
+
+[Illustration: 0010]
+
+[Illustration: 0013]
+
+[Illustration: 0014]
+
+
+
+
+THE RIVER THAMES
+
+[Illustration: 0016]
+
+[Illustration: 0017]
+
+|THE Thames, unrivalled among English rivers in beauty as in fame, is
+really little known by Englishmen. Of the millions who line its banks,
+few have any acquaintance with its higher streams, or know them further
+than by occasional glances through rail way-carriage windows, at
+Maidenhead, Reading, Pangbourne, or between Abingdon and Oxford.
+Multitudes, even, who love the Oxford waters, and are familiar with
+every turn of the banks between Folly Bridge and Nuneham, have never
+thought to explore the scenes of surpassing beauty where the river flows
+on, almost in loneliness, in its descent to London; visited by few,
+save by those happy travellers, who, with boat and tent, pleasant
+companionship, and well-chosen books--Izaak Walton's _Angler_ among the
+rest--pass leisurely from reach to reach of the silver stream. Then,
+higher up than Oxford, who knows the Thames? Who can even tell where it
+arises, and through what district it flows?
+
+There is a vague belief in many minds, fostered by some ancient manuals
+of geography, that the Thames is originally the Isis, so called until
+it receives the river _Thame_, the auspicious union being denoted by the
+pluralising of the latter word. The whole account is pure invention. No
+doubt the great river does receive the Thame or Tame, near Wallingford;
+but a Tame is also tributary to the Trent; and there is a Teme among
+the affluents of the Severn. The truth appears to be that Teme, Tame,
+or Thame, is an old Keltic word meaning "smooth," or "broad;" and that
+Tamesis, of which Thames is merely a contraction, is formed by the
+addition to this root of the old "Es," water, so familiar to us in
+"Ouse," * "Esk," "Uiske," "Exe," so that Tam-es means simply the "broad
+water," and is Latinised into Tamesis. The last two syllables again of
+this word are fancifully changed into Isis, which is thus taken as a
+poetic appellation of the river. In point of fact, Isis is used only by
+the poets, or by those who affect poetic diction. Thus, Warton, in his
+address to Oxford:
+
+     "Lo, your loved Isis, from the bordering vale,
+     With all a mother's fondness bids you hail."
+
+The name, then, of the Thames is singular, not plural; while yet the
+river is formed of many confluent streams descending from the Cotswold
+Hills. Which is the actual source is perhaps a question of words; and
+yet it is one as keenly contended, and by as many competing localities,
+as the birthplace of Homer was of old. Of the seven, however, only two
+can show a plausible case. The traditional Thames Head is in Trewsbury
+Mead, three miles from Cirencester, not far from the Tetbury Road
+Station, on the Great Western Railway, and hard by the old Roman road of
+Akeman Street, one of the four ** that radiate from Cirencester, or, as
+the Romans called the city, Corinium. Here the infant stream is at once
+pressed into service, its waters being pumped up into the Thames and
+Severn Canal, whose high embankment forms the back-ground to the wooded
+nook which forms the cradle of the river. It is an impressive comment
+on the reported saying of Brindley the engineer, that "the great use of
+rivers is to feed canals." Half-a-mile farther down, and when clear
+of the great pumping-engine, the baby river issues again to light in a
+secluded dell, and now has room to wander at its own sweet will. The cut
+on the preceding page delineates its early course, and shows "the Hoar
+Stone," an ancient boundary, mentioned in a charter of King AEthelstan,
+a.d. 931.
+
+The river now receives a succession of tiny rivulets, which augment its
+volume and force until, near the village of Kemble, it is crossed by a
+rustic bridge,--"the first bridge over the Thames," as depicted for us
+in the charming volume of Mr. and Mrs. S. C. Hall, with its three narrow
+arches, and its sides undefended by a parapet, with the solitary figures
+of the labourer and his boy, wending their way home after work.
+
+     * "The Ouse, whom men do Isis rightly name."--Spenser,
+     Faerie Queen.
+
+     ** The other three were the Fossway, or "entrenched road,"
+     running to the north-east, the Ikenild Street or "road to
+     the Iceni," nearly due east, and Ermine or Irmin Street,
+     passing through Cirencester, north-west to Gloucester, and
+     south-east to Silchester. Akeman Street is a continuance of
+     the Fossway, and runs south-west to Bath. Its name probably
+     means, "Oak-man," or Forester.
+
+[Illustration: 8019]
+
+What a contrast with the _last_ bridge that spans the river, with its
+mighty sweep of traffic below and above!
+
+But we must dally yet among scenes of rural quietude. A few miles beyond
+Kemble, the Thames has acquired force sufficient to turn a mill. Hence,
+leaving the highway, and taking our path through pleasant meadows,
+we pass by one or two rural villages, and so to Cricklade, the first
+market-town on the Thames. And here a considerable affluent joins the
+stream--a river, in fact, that has come down from another part of the
+Cotswold Hills, with some show of right to be the original stream.
+
+[Illustration: 8018]
+
+This is the Churn (or Corin; Keltic "The Summit"), which rises at "the
+Seven Springs," in a rocky hill-side, about three miles from Cheltenham,
+and runs by Cirencester (Corin-cester) down to Cricklade. I he claim of
+the Churn is the twofold one, of greater height in its source than the
+traditional meadows and beside quiet villages: much, to say the truth,
+like other rivers, or distinguished only by the transparency of its
+gentle stream. For, issuing from a broad surface of oolite rock, it has
+brought no mountain debris or dull clay to sully its brightness, no town
+defilement, nor trace of higher rapids, in turbid waves and hurrying
+foam. It lingers amid quiet beauties, scarcely veiling from sight the
+rich herbarium which it fosters in its bed, save where the shadows of
+trees reflected in the calm water mingle confusedly with the forms of
+aquatic plants. Meanwhile other streams swell the current. As an unknown
+poet somewhat loftily sings:
+
+     "From various springs divided waters glide,
+     In different colours roll a different tide;
+     Murmur along their crooked banks awhile:--
+     At once they murmur, and enrich the isle,
+     Awhile distinct, through many channels run,
+     But meet at last, and sweetly flow in one;
+     There joy to lose their long distinguished names,
+     And make one glorious and immortal Thames."
+
+Of the little streams thus loftily described, the most important are the
+Coln and the Leche; as Drayton has it in his _Polyolbion_:
+
+     "Clere Coin and lovely Leche, so dun from Cotswold's plain."
+
+[Illustration: 9020]
+
+The confluence of these streams with the Thames at Lechlade makes the
+river navigable for barges; and from this point it sets up a towingpath.
+At this point also end may be seen--a distant glimmering circle--from
+the other. Then the canal pursues a level course for some miles, and
+descends about 130 feet to the Thames at Lechlade, having traversed in
+all a distance of rather more than thirty miles.
+
+Below Lechlade the river passes into almost perfect solitude. Few walks
+in England of the same distance are at once so quietly interesting
+and so utterly lonely as the walk along the grassy towing-path of the
+Thames. A constant water-traffic was once maintained between London and
+Bristol by way of Lechlade and the canal; but this is now superseded by
+the railway, and the sight of a passing barge is rare.
+
+[Illustration: 0021]
+
+The river after leaving Gloucestershire divides, in many a winding, the
+counties of Oxford and Berks. The hills of the latter county, with their
+wood-crowned summits, pleasantly bound the view to the south; Farringdon
+Hill being for a long distance conspicuous among them. Half-way between
+Lechlade and Oxford is the hamlet of Siford, or Shifford--one of the
+great historic spots of England, if rightly considered, although now
+isolated and unknown. For there, as an ancient chronicler commemorates,
+King Alfred the Great held Parliament a thousand years ago.
+
+     "There sat at Siford many thanes and many bishops,
+     Learned men, proud earls and awful knights,
+     There was Karl AElfric, learned in the law,
+     And AElfred, England's herdsman, England's darling,
+     He was King in England.
+     He began to teach them how they should live."
+
+Not far off is New Bridge, the oldest probably on the Thames. But it was
+"new" six hundred years ago. Its solid construction shows that it was
+once a great highway; while its buttresses, pointed up the stream,
+betoken the power of the floods which the careful draining of later days
+has done so much to moderate.
+
+A short distance farther, the Windrush flows down from the north, by
+Bourton-"on-the-water," Burford and Witney, to unite with the broadening
+river; then the Evenlode, which the traveller by the Oxford, Worcester,
+and Wolverhampton Railway so often crosses and recrosses in his journey.
+
+Throughout, the river is carefully adapted for the purposes of a
+navigation now little needed. The occasional locks and the frequent
+weirs break the level, and the latter especially--sometimes miniature
+rapids or waterfalls--add picturesqueness to the scene. An expert
+oarsman may descend them all with safety; but many prefer to lift the
+boat on to the bank and drag it down to the lower level. These are
+interruptions to the journey, which, on the whole, is very enjoyable.
+Should the tourist have time at command, he may diverge to the right
+hand or to the left, to scenes of rich beauty or historic interest.
+Cumnor Hall, a name familiar to all readers of Sir Walter Scott from the
+tragic fate of Amy Robsart, lies a little way to the right of Bablock
+Hythe Ferry; Stanton Harcourt a short distance to the left. At the
+latter place Alexander Pope once resided, in a tower of the old mansion,
+which time or reverence has spared, in the ruin of almost all the rest.
+A pane of glass, in one of the tower windows, bore an inscription from
+the poet's own hand. "In the year 1718, Alexander Pope finished here the
+Fifth Volume of Homer." The pane is now at Nuneham Courtney, the mansion
+of the Harcourts. At Bablock Hythe Ferry the traveller is scarcely four
+miles from Oxford by the direct road; but if he keep to his boat, which
+he will not regret, he will find the distance fully twelve. The detour
+leads him first past the lovely wooded slopes and glades of Wytham
+Abbey, then to the scanty ruins of Godstow Nunnery, with its memories of
+Fair Rosamond. But we must not linger now, though opposite to the ruins
+a charming country hostelry offers its attractions, and the trout are
+leaping in the stream; for we are on our way to Oxford.
+
+The impression which the first sight of this fair and ancient city makes
+upon the stranger is probably unique, in whatever direction he first
+approaches it, and from whatever point he first descries its spires and
+towers. True, of late years the accessories of the railway invasion, so
+long resisted by the University authorities, have given a new aspect
+to the scene; but nothing can quite destroy the stately dignity
+and venerable calm. The traveller who approaches by the way we are
+describing, receives the full impression. As he floats along the quiet
+surface of the river, the stately domes and towers come suddenly in
+sight, and the green railway embankment in the foreground scarcely
+impairs the antique beauty of the picture.
+
+Oxford is probably Ousenford--the ford over the Ouse or "Water." Its
+waters indeed are many, and almost labyrinthine; but we get clear of
+the river at Hythe Bridge, and care for awhile only to explore Colleges,
+Halls, and Libraries; pausing before the Martyrs' Memorial, to breathe
+the hope that "the candle" once lighted there may still brightly burn,
+while Keble College, farther on, is a memorial of one, who though of
+another school of thought from ourselves, has given musical and touching
+expressions tu the deepest thoughts of devout hearts.
+
+[Illustration: 0023]
+
+But to describe this wonderful city is beyond our present scope. Let us
+hurry down to Christ Church Meadows, where the Cherwell sweeps round to
+join the Thames; then across to the Broad Walk, past Merton Meadow and
+the Botanical Gardens, to Magdalen Bridge, where a splendid view of the
+city is again obtained; thence up High Street to the centre of the city,
+and down St. Aldate's Street to Folly Bridge, where boats of all sizes
+are in waiting. This bridge may appear strangely named, as a main
+approach to the renowned seat of learning.
+
+[Illustration: 9024]
+
+Various stories are told as to the origin of the name. Perhaps it may
+be from some tradition of Roger Bacon, who had his study and laboratory
+here, over the ancient gate. There was a saying, that this study would
+fall when a man more learned than Bacon passed under it; so that the
+name may be an uncomplimentary reference to the troops of students
+entering Oxford by this thoroughfare. But such speculations need nut
+hinder us. We are bound for London--a voyage of some 115 miles, though
+only 52 by rail. Many boatmen will prefer to take the train for Goring,
+saving six-and-twenty miles of water travelling, and avoiding the most
+tedious and on the whole least picturesque part of the journey.
+Still, in any case Nuneham must be seen, with Iffley Lock and Sandford
+Lasher--familiar names to boating men!--upon the way.
+
+[Illustration: 8024]
+
+Nuneham is a charming domain, scene of picnic parties innumerable, yet
+freshly beautiful to every visitor who can enjoy woodland walks and
+verdant slopes, with gardens planned by Mason the poet, in which art and
+taste have, as it were, only improved upon the hints and suggestions of
+nature; and breezy heights from which the prospect, if less extensive
+than some other far-famed English views, may surely vie in loveliness
+with any of them.
+
+The intending visitor must be careful to ascertain the days and
+conditions of access to the grounds; and in his ramble must be sure to
+include the old "Carfax" conduit, removed in 1787 from the "four ways"
+(for the "Car" is evidently _quatre_, whatever the "fax" may be) in
+Oxford, and set on a commanding eminence, the distant spires and towers
+of the city, with Blenheim Woods in the back-ground, being seen in one
+direction, and the view in another bounded by the line of the Chiltern
+Hills.
+
+[Illustration: 8025]
+
+When the oarsman has once left behind the wooded slopes of Nuneham, with
+the overhanging trees reflected in the silvery waters, he will find the
+way to Abingdon monotonous. He will perhaps be startled by seeing picnic
+parties in large boats, towed from the shore by stalwart peasants,
+harnessed to the rope. Let us hope that the toil is easier than it
+looks! On the whole, we do not recommend the long detour by Abingdon,
+although Clifton Hampden is charming, and Dorchester, near the junction
+of the Thame and the Thames--once a Roman camp, afterwards the see of
+the first Bishop of Wessex, but now a poor village--is well worth a
+visit. It is startling to find a minster in a hamlet.
+
+Probably, however, the antiquarian may be more interested in the remains
+of the Whittenham earthworks, which in British or Saxon times defended
+the meeting-point of the rivers. The Thame Hows in on the left.
+
+On the hill to the right is Sinodun, a remarkably fine British camp.
+The whole neighbourhood, so still and peaceful now, tells of bygone
+greatness, and of many a struggle of which the records have vanished
+from the page of history. Not far, however, from Dorchester in another
+direction is Chalgrove Field, where the brave and patriotic Hampden
+received his death-wound. His name, and that of Falkland, to be noticed
+farther on, awaken in these scenes now so tranquil the remembrance of
+the stormy times when, in this Thames Valley, were waged those conflicts
+out of which in so large a measure sprang the freedom and progress of
+modern England.
+
+At Dorchester we are still eleven miles by water from Goring; and though
+the angler may loiter down the stream, we must hasten on, though ancient
+Wallingford and rustic Cleeve are not unworthy of notice. At Goring the
+chief beauties of the river begin to disclose themselves.
+
+Ralph Waldo Emerson says of the English landscape, that "it seems to
+be finished with the pencil instead of the plough." Our fields are
+cultivated like gardens. Neat, trim hedgerows, picturesque villages,
+spires peeping from among groves of trees, cottages gay with flowers
+and evergreens, suggest that the landscape gardener rather than the
+agriculturist has been everywhere at work. If this be true of England as
+a whole, it is yet more strikingly true of the district through which
+we are about to pass. A thousand years of peaceful industry have subdued
+the wildness of nature; and the river glides between banks radiant
+with beauty: "The little hills rejoice on every side; the pastures are
+clothed with Hocks, the valleys are covered over with corn; they shout
+for joy, they also sing."
+
+Yet there is no lack of variety. The course of the river is broken up by
+innumerable "aits" ("eyots"), or little islands; some covered with trees
+which dip their branches into the stream, others with reeds and osier,
+the haunts of wild fowl; on others, again, a cottage or a summer-house
+peeps out from amongst the foliage. Sometimes these aits seem to block
+up the channel, and leave no exit, so that the boat seems to be afloat
+on a tiny lake, till a stroke or two of the oar discloses a narrow
+passage into the stream beyond. Sometimes a line of chalk down bounds
+the view, its delicately curved sides dotted over with juniper bushes,
+the dark green of which contrasts finely with the light grey of the
+turf. Then comes a range of hanging beech-wood coming down to the
+water's edge, or a broad expanse of meadow, where the cattle wade
+knee-deep in grass, or a mansion whose grounds have been transformed
+into a paradise by lavish expenditure and fine taste, or a village, the
+rustic beauty of which might realise the dreams of poet or of painter.
+The locks, mill-dams, or weirs with their dashing waters, give
+animation to the scene. Nor is that additional charm often wanting, of
+which Dr. Johnson used to speak. "The finest landscape in the world,"
+he would say, "is improved by a good inn in the foreground." True,
+there are no great hotels, after the modern fashion; but a series of
+comfortable homely village inns will be found, such as Izaak Walton
+loved, and which are still favourite haunts with the brethren of "the
+gentle craft." The landlord, learned in all anglers' lore, is delighted
+to show where the big pike lies in a sedgy pool, where the perch will
+bite most freely, or to suggest the most killing fly to cast for trout
+over the mill-pond; and is not too proud, when the day's task is done,
+to wait upon the oarsman or the angler at his evening meal.
+
+     * As we write, the following letter to the Times arrests our
+     attention; it is too graphic, as well as accurate, to be
+     lost:--
+
+     "I will not tell you where I am, except that I am staying at
+     an hotel on the banks of the River Thames. I hesitate to
+     name the place, charming as it is, because I am sure, when
+     its beauties are known, it will be hopelessly vulgarised.
+     Mine host, the pleasantest of landlords, his wife, the most
+     agreeable of her sex, will charge, too, in proportion as the
+     plutocracy invade us. I am surrounded by the most charming
+     scenery. Few know, and still fewer appreciate the beauties
+     of our own River Thames. I have been up and down the Rhine;
+     but I confess, taking all in all, Oxford to Gravesend
+     pleases me more. Herc, in addition to what I have described,
+     I am on the river's brink; I can row about to my heart's
+     content for a very moderate figure; excellent fishing;
+     newspapers to be procured, and postal arrangements of a
+     character not to worry you, and yet sufficient to keep you
+     _au fait_ with your business arrangements. What do I want
+     more? Prices are moderate, the village contains houses
+     suitable to all clashes, and the inhabitants are pleased to
+     see you. I can wear flannels without being stared at, and I
+     can see the opposite sex, in the most bewitching and
+     fascinating of costumes, rowing about (with satisfaction,
+     too) the so-called lords of creation. As for children, there
+     is no end of amusement for them--dabbling in the water,
+     feeding the swans, the fields, and the safety of a punt. We
+     have both aristocratic and well-to-do people here--names
+     well known in town; but I must not, nor will I, betray them.
+     On the towing-path this morning was to be seen the smartest
+     of our Judges in a straw hat and a tourist suit, equally
+     becoming to him as it was well cut.
+
+     "Let me advise all your readers who are hesitating where to
+     go not to overlook the natural beauties of our River Thames.
+     There are one or two steamers that make the journey up and
+     down the river in three days, stopping at various places,
+     and giving ample opportunity for passengers both to see and
+     appreciate the scenery.
+
+     "E. C. W."
+
+To describe in detail all the points of beauty that lie before us, would
+require far more space than we have at disposal; and a dry catalogue
+of names would interest no one. We have started, as said before,
+from Goring, where the twin village Streatley--bearing in its name a
+reminiscence of the old Roman road Ikenild Street,--nestles at the foot
+of its romantic wooded hill. The comfort of the little hostelry and
+the charm of the scenery invite a longer stay, but we must press on.
+Pangbourne and Whitchurch, also twin villages, joined by a pretty wooden
+bridge, once more invite delay. On the right, the little river Pang
+flows in between green hills; on the left, or the Whitchurch side,
+heights clothed with the richest foliage shut in the scene. The cottages
+are embosomed amid the trees; the clear river catches a thousand
+reflections from hillside, and sky; the waters of the weir dash merrily
+down; and the fishermen, each in his punt moored near mid-stream,
+yielding themselves to the tranquil delight of the perfect scene,
+are further gladdened by many an encouraging nibble. Surely of all
+amusements the most restful is fishing from a punt! Most persons would
+find a day of absolute idleness intolerable. But here we have just
+that measure of expectation and excitement which enable even a busy and
+active man to sit all day doing nothing.
+
+[Illustration: 8027]
+
+Into the question of the cruelty of the sport we do not enter; but its
+soothing, tranquillising character cannot be denied. For ourselves, our
+business is not to angle, but to observe. As we row past these grave
+and solemn men, absorbed in the endeavour to hook a dace or gudgeon,
+and recognise among them one or two of the hardest workers in London, we
+feel, at any rate, that the familiar sneer about "a rod with a line at
+one end, and a fool at the other," may not be altogether just.
+
+Passing a series of verdant lawns, sloping to the river's brink, we
+reach Mapledurham and Purley, on opposite sides of the river at one of
+its most exquisite bends. The former place is celebrated by Pope as the
+retreat of his ladye love Martha Blount; when
+
+     "She went to plain-work, and to purling brooks,
+     Old-fashioned halls, dull aunts, and croaking rooks."
+
+The latter was the residence of Warren Hastings during his trial, and is
+not to be confounded with the Purley in Surrey, where Horne Tooke wrote
+his celebrated _Diversions_, on the origin and history of words.
+
+The next halting-place is Caversham, sometimes magniloquently described
+as "the port of Reading." Here the Thames widens out, as shown in the
+view which prefaces the present chapter; the eel-traps, or "bucks,"
+extending half across the river. On the occasion of our visit to the
+spot, it was our intention to stop for the night at Caversham; but as
+the inn was crowded and noisy, we resolved to push on to Sonning. The
+evening was already closing in, and before we reached our destination it
+had grown dark. The trees stood up solemnly against the sky, from which
+the twilight had not wholly departed. Their shadows fell mysteriously
+across the river, rendering the task of steering a difficult one.
+
+[Illustration: 9028]
+
+At length the welcome lights of the village were descried through the
+deepening gloom; and we landed, having suffered no more serious mishap
+than running into an ait, which our steersman mistook for a shadow,
+in the endeavour to avoid a shadow which he mistook for the bank. Next
+morning, after a plunge into the clear cool water of the pool at the
+foot of Sonning Weir, a scamper round the village, a climb to the top
+of the tower for the magnificent view, and a hearty breakfast, we were
+ready for an early start, whilst the dew was yet on the grass, and
+the air had not lost its freshness. Here the Kennet, "for silver
+eels renowned," as Pope has it, flows in from the southwest, with its
+memories of the high-minded and chivalrous Falkland, who fell at the
+battle of Newbury, on the banks of this river. A little lower down the
+Loddon enters the Thames from the south, between Shiplake and Wargrave.
+The picturesque churches of these two villages were soon passed, and we
+entered the fine expanse of Henley Reach, famous in boat-racing annals.
+Here for many years the University matches were rowed before their
+removal to Putney. No sheet of water could be better suited to the
+purpose, and the change is regretted by many boating-men.
+
+[Illustration: 0031]
+
+About four miles below Henley, in one of the loveliest spots on the
+river, are the ruins of Medmenham Abbey, notorious in the latter half of
+the eighteenth century, as the scene of the foul and blasphemous orgies
+of the "Franciscans." The club took its name from Sir Francis Dashwood,
+its founder, and numbered amongst its members many who were conspicuous,
+not only for rank and station, but for intellectual ability and
+political influence. Its proceedings were invested with profound
+secrecy; but enough was known to show that the most degrading vices
+were practised, and the lowest depths of wickedness reached;--strange
+profanation of one of Nature's loveliest shrines!
+
+We are now approaching the point at which the beauty of the river
+culminates. From Marlow, past Cookham, Hedsor and Cliefden, to
+Maidenhead, a distance of eight or ten miles, we gladly suspend the
+labour of the oar, and let the boat drift slowly with the stream. As we
+glide along, even this gentle motion is too rapid, and we linger on the
+way to feast our eyes with the infinitely varied combination of chalk
+cliff and swelling hill and luxuriant foliage which every turn of the
+river brings to view:
+
+Woods, meadows, hamlets, farms,
+
+Spires in the vale and towers upon the hills;
+
+[Illustration: 8031]
+
+  The great chalk quarries glaring through the shade.
+
+  The pleasant lanes and hedgerows, and those homes
+  Which seemed the very dwellings of content and peace and sunshine." *
+
+     * Down Stream to London. By the Rev. S. J. Stone.
+
+The "castled crags" of the Rhine and the Moselle,--the "blue rushing of
+the arrowy Rhone,"--the massive grandeur of the banks of the Danube, are
+far more imposing and stimulating; but the quiet, tranquil loveliness of
+this part of the Thames may make good its claim to take rank even with
+those world-famed rivers. There is something both unique and charming in
+the dry "combes," or fissures in the chalk ranges, rapidly descending,
+and garnished with sweeping foliage of untrimmed beech-trees. The
+branches gracefully bend down to the slope of the rising sward; while,
+from the steepness of the angle, the tree-tops appear from below as a
+succession of pinnacles against the sky. Many a roamer through distant
+lands has come home to give the palm for the perfection of natural
+beauty to the rocks and hanging woods of Cliefden. That they are within
+an hour's run of London does not indeed abate their claim to admiration,
+but may suggest the reason why they are so comparatively little known.
+The mansion on the height, designed by Sir Charles Barry, is now in the
+possession of the Duke of Westminster.
+
+[Illustration: 9032]
+
+Maidenhead is on the other side of the river; Taplow opposite. The
+bridge between them--one of Brunei's works, will be noted for its
+enormous span; its elliptical brick arches being, it is said, the widest
+of the kind in the world. From this point, if the beauty decreases, the
+historical interest becomes greater at every turn. First we pass the
+village and church of Bray. The scenery here is of little interest; but
+it is impossible not to give a thought to the vicar, Symond Symonds,
+commemorated in song. Let it be noted, however, that the lyrist has used
+a poetic licence in his dates. The historian, Thomas Fuller, tells the
+story: "The vivacious vicar, living under King Henry VIII., Edward VI.,
+Oueen Mary, and Oueen Elizabeth, was first a Papist, then a Protestant,
+then a Papist, then a Protestant again. He had seen some martyrs burnt
+(two miles off), at Windsor, and found this fire too hot for his tender
+temper. The vicar being taxed by one for being a turncoat and inconstant
+changeling. 'Not so,' said he, 'for I always kept my principle, which is
+this--to live and to die the Vicar of Bray.'" The type is but too true
+to human nature, and not only in matters ecclesiastical. But instead of
+staying to moralise, we will notice with interest that in this church
+is preserved an ancient copy of Fox's _Book of Martyrs_, chained to
+the reading-desk, as in the days of Oueen Elizabeth. It is better to be
+reminded of "the faith and patience of the saints," than of the light
+conviction and easy apostacy of politic "believers;" and so the old
+church at Bray has taught us a refreshing and unexpected lesson.
+
+Soon the towers of Windsor are seen rising above the trees; then Eton
+College comes into view, with its
+
+          "distant spires, antique towers
+     That crown the watery glade."
+
+[Illustration: 0033]
+
+Perhaps the best view of the castle from the Thames is that from a point
+just beyond the Great Western Railway bridge. When the queen is absent,
+access is easy. St. George's Chapel, built by Edward IV., is the finest
+existing specimen of the architecture of that period; and the view from
+the North Terrace, constructed by Queen Elizabeth, is perhaps the most
+beautiful on the River Thames.
+
+A little lower down, and we are passing between Runnimede ("Meadow of
+Council"), where the barons camped, and Magna Charta Island, where the
+great charter of English liberty was signed; and a temporary struggle
+between king and nobles laid the broad foundations of English freedom.
+
+[Illustration: 9034]
+
+As we sweep round the bend beneath the broad meadow and the wooded isle,
+"while we muse the fire burneth,"--the ardour of grateful love to Him
+who has shaped the destinies of our beloved land, and has never from
+that hour withdrawn the trust then committed to the nation, of being the
+guardians and pioneers of the world's freedom. A multitude of thoughts
+and questionings throng in upon us, but we must not lose the opportunity
+of impressing on our memory the outward features of the scene. There is
+not much to see: if there be time to land upon the island, it will be
+as well to do so, and enter the pretty modern cottage there erected,
+containing the very stone--if tradition is to be believed--on which the
+Charter was laid for the royal signature.
+
+From Runnimede, it is but an easy climb to the brow of Cooper's Hill,
+with its far-famed view of the river, of Windsor, and its woods. Dr.
+Johnson speaks of Sir John Denham's poem, of which we have taken some
+lines as the motto to this chapter, as "the first English specimen of
+local poetry." Its subject, as well as its style, will preserve it
+from the oblivion to which the greater number of the poet's works have
+descended.
+
+Another Coin falls into the river, to the left, a little farther
+on--suggestive, in its name, of the Roman occupation; the "street" to
+the west here crossing the Thames by a bridge. "London Stone," a few
+hundred yards lower down, marks the entrance into Middlesex; then clean
+and quiet Staines----"Stones," so termed, perhaps, from the piers of
+the old Roman bridge, or, it may be, from the London Stone itself, comes
+into view: but if the traveller has time to spare, he will rather pause
+at Laleham, so well known to every Christian educator as the earliest
+scene of Arnold's labours.
+
+[Illustration: 0035]
+
+"The first reception of the tidings of his election at Rugby," we are
+told by his biographer, "was overclouded with deep sorrow at leaving
+the scene of so much happiness. Years after he had left it, he still
+retained his early affection for it, and till he had purchased his house
+in Westmoreland, he entertained a lingering hope that he might return
+to it in his old age, when he should have retired from Rugby. Often he
+would revisit it, and delighted in renewing his acquaintance with all
+the families of the poor whom he had known during his residence; in
+showing to his children his former haunts; in looking once again on his
+favourite views of the great plain of Middlesex--the lonely walks along
+the quiet banks of the Thames--the retired garden with its 'Campus
+Martins,' and its 'wilderness of trees;' which lay behind the house,
+and which had been the scenes of so many sportive games and serious
+conversations." *
+
+[Illustration: 9036]
+
+Chertsey, on the other side of the river, is next passed, the leisurely
+traveller having the opportunity, if he so please, of visiting the
+house of Cowley the poet, or of climbing to St. Anne's Hill, once the
+residence of the statesman Charles James Fox.
+
+Then, still on the right, the mouth of the Wey is seen, the pretty town
+of Wey-bridge not being far off. Towns and villages now multiply: the
+villas of city men begin to dot the banks, and the suburban railway
+station appears, with its hurrying morning and evening crowds. The
+chronicle of names now would be like the monotonous cry of the railway
+porter: "Shepperton; Walton; Sunbury; Hampton." But as yet we need
+not join with the throng. The "silent highway"--as the river has been
+called--is also a retreat. Still we can leisurely survey the charm,
+which, so long as the sky, the water, and the trees remain, no builder
+can efface, although he may try his best, or worst.
+
+A bend in the river between Shepperton and Walton is of historic
+interest, as there Julius Caesar with his legions forced the passage of
+the Thames, and routed the British General Cassivelaunus. "Caesar led
+his army to the territories of Cassivelaunus, to the river Thames,
+which river can be crossed on foot in one place only, and that with
+difficulty. On arriving, he perceived that great forces of the enemy
+were drawn up on the opposite bank, which was moreover fortified by
+sharp stakes set along the margin, a similar stockade being fixed in the
+bed of the river, and covered by the stream. Having ascertained these
+facts from prisoners and deserters, Caesar sent the cavalry in front, and
+ordered the legions to follow immediately. The soldiers advanced with
+such rapidity and impetuosity, although up to their necks in the water,
+that the enemy could not withstand the onset, but quitted the banks and
+betook themselves to flight." * The name Cowey, or Coway Stakes, to this
+day commemorates the event.
+
+     * Stanley's _Life_ vol. i. p. 37. One of Arnold's Laleham
+     pupils, afterwards his colleague at Rugby, writes: "The most
+     remarkable thing which struck me at once in joining the
+     Laleham circle, was the wonderful healthiness of tone and
+     feeling which prevailed in it. Everything about me I
+     immediately felt to be most real; it was a place where a
+     new-comer at once felt that a great and earnest work was
+     going forward. Dr. Arnold's great power as a private tutor
+     resided in this, that he gave such an intense earnestness to
+     life. Every pupil was made to feel that there was a work for
+     him to do--that his happiness as well as his duty lay in
+     doing that work well. Hence, an indescribable zest was
+     communicated to a young man's feeling about life; a strange
+     joy came over him on discovering that he had the means of
+     being useful, and thus of being happy; and a deep respect
+     and ardent attachment sprang up towards him who had taught
+     him thus to value life and his own self, and his work and
+     mission in this world." September 23, 1872.
+
+[Illustration: 0038]
+
+     "Who calls the council, states the certain day.
+     Who forms the phalanx, and who points the way."--_Pope_
+
+[Illustration: 0039]
+
+Two or three miles farther, and just past Hampton village, on the left
+bank, the traveller will notice a little rotunda with a Grecian portico
+with a mansion of some pretensions in the wooded back-ground. The house
+was Garrick's residence, and in the rotunda there originally stood
+Roubiliac's famous statue of Shakspere, now in the British Museum.
+Bushey Park and Hampton Court next tempt us to the shore. Great names of
+history again rise to memory--Wolsey, Cromwell, Williams. But the charm
+of Hampton Court is, that its palace and gardens are free of access to
+the people; a privilege which, all the summer through, is appreciated
+by eager, happy throngs. But let us cross the river to the comparative
+solitude of the two Dittons--"Thames," and "Long." An _impromptu_ of
+poor Theodore Hook, lively and graceful, according to his wont, has led
+many a tourist in search of a holiday to this pretty neighbourhood, and
+the poet's memory is reverenced in the village accordingly. Here are the
+first and last verses:
+
+  "When sultry suns and dusty streets proclaim town's 'winter season,'
+  And rural scenes and cool retreats sound something like high treason--
+  I steal away to shades serene which yet no bard has hit on,
+  And change the bustling, heartless scene for quietude and Ditlon.
+  Here, in a placid waking dream, I'm free from worldly troubles,
+  Calm as the rippling silver stream that in the sunshine bubbles;
+  And when sweet Eden's blissful bowers, some abler bard has writ on.
+  Despairing to transcend his powers, I'll-ditto-say for Ditton."
+
+Then comes trim Surbiton with its villas, and Kingston--once, as its
+name imports, a town of kings. Por here were crowned several Saxon
+monarchs; is there not the coronation-stone in the market-place,
+engraven with their names? Teddington Lock, a little lower down, is the
+last upon the Thames; and here too the anglers of the river put forth
+their chief and almost their final strength. The mile from Teddington to
+Eel-pie Island off Twickenham will be a quiet one indeed, if the voyager
+interfere not with the sport of one or other of these gentry, and draw
+down their resentment accordingly. Strawberry Hill reminds us of Horace
+Walpole, literary idleness, sham Gothic, and _bric-a-brac_. We glance
+and pass on. Pope's Villa no longer exists; only a relic of his famous
+grotto remains; but a monument to the poet is in Twickenham Church,
+with an inscription by Warburton, setting forth that Pope "would not be
+buried in Westminster Abbey."
+
+Past wood-fringed meadows on either hand, the "Broadwater," now rightly
+named--sweeps on to Richmond, where we must ascend the far-famed hill,
+to gaze once more upon the finest river-view in Europe. A little
+farther down, on autumn days, off lsleworth, may be descried flights of
+swallows, preparing for their outward journey. "They arrive," writes the
+artist who has depicted the scene, "in a mass, at the same hour,
+without confusion, as it were in regiments, and in some of their oblique
+evolutions resemble a drift of black snow. At dusk they all sink down
+into the island or 'ait' opposite the church of Isleworth, where a large
+bed of osiers affords them in its slender wands a settling-place for the
+night."
+
+[Illustration: 0041]
+
+From this point, all Londoners know their river. The beauty of nature
+is no longer present, but a new sentiment of wonder and interest takes
+possession of us. We feel the stir and hear the roar of the great
+Babel. What were once quiet suburban villages are now but a part of
+the metropolis. Still, however, they retain something of the quaint
+picturesqueness of the last century. In many a nook and corner we
+come upon solid comfortable houses of red brick, where our
+great-grandmothers, over a "dish of tea," may have discussed the "poems
+of a person of quality," or "the writings of the ingenious Mr. Addison."
+
+[Illustration: 8043]
+
+These relics of the last century are rapidly disappearing.
+
+Cheyne Walk at Chelsea, which now forms so striking an object from
+the river, can hardly hold out much longer against the march of modern
+improvement, and will probably ere long share the fate of the Lord
+Mayor's barge, and disappear from view.
+
+The noble embankments which now skirt so large a portion of the London
+river, and the bridges old and new, afford every facility for the full
+study of the Thames in all its aspects. Yet those who only cross with
+the hurrying crowd miss half the picturesqueness of what many who
+have travelled far feel to be among the most picturesque city views in
+Europe. Wordsworth's sonnet, beginning--
+
+     "Earth has not anything to show more fair,"
+
+was written on Westminster Bridge! But then it was on an early summer
+morning, when the "mighty heart" of the city was "lying still," and the
+"very houses seemed asleep." The blue sky, unobscured by smoke, hung
+in the freshness of the dawn over the dwellings of men and the
+heaven-pointing spires. The night airs had swept away every city taint,
+and the atmosphere was pure as among the mountains or by the sea. The
+experiment is worth making still at the cost of an hour or two's earlier
+rising, to prove how exhilarating, fresh, and delightful the London air
+may be.
+
+Or perhaps the charm of the scene may be more deeply felt amid the
+mystery of night, when the clouds have dispersed, and but for some rare
+footfalls there is silence, and the countless lights stretch in long
+lines, reflected by the gently rippling waters, while even the bright
+glare of the railway lamps aloft only add colour and splendour to the
+gleaming array, and the steadfast stars hang overhead. By night or in
+early morning, perhaps through force of contrast, the full beauty of
+these London river scenes are felt. Or, to vary the impression, we may
+take boat, as did our fathers, from bridge to bridge, "from Westminster
+to Rotherhithe," or farther down the broadening stream, with the
+wealth of the world, as it almost seems, ranged on either hand in the
+close-crowded vessels or the stupendous warehouses. Every such excursion
+is a new revelation, even to minds accustomed to the scene, of what is
+meant by English commerce, and of the ties which connect us with all
+mankind. Yet there is much to remind us that the universal reign of
+peace has not as yet set in. Grim preparations for defence and war
+bespeak a nation prepared, if needs be, for strife. And as at length
+we reach Tilbury Fort, and glow under the influence of the invigorating
+sea-breeze, great memories rush in upon us of armaments once gathered
+here; to lead, as it seemed, the forlorn hope;--to attain, as by God's
+great mercy it proved, the triumphant victory, of British Protestantism
+and liberty.
+
+When King James I. threatened the recalcitrant corporation of London
+with the removal of the court to Oxford, the Lord Mayor, with scarcely
+veiled sarcasm, replied, "May it please your Majesty, of your grace, not
+to take away the Thames too!" If the Upper Thames awakens our admiration
+by its loveliness, the Lower Thames inspires us with wonder and almost
+awe at the boundless wealth and world-wide commerce which it bears upon
+its ample bosom. Other rivers may vie with it in beauty. In far-reaching
+influence it stands alone. As we sail through its forest of masts, or
+follow its course down to the sea, we feel that we are surrounded by
+influences which stretch to the very ends of the earth. The stream whose
+course we have traced from the tiny rivulet in Trewsbury Mead has become
+the channel of communications which, for good or evil, are affecting
+every nation under heaven. May He who has endowed us with such wealth
+and power lead us to hold them both under a deep sense of responsibility
+to Him who gave them!--"Then shall our peace flow like a river, and our
+righteousness as the waves of the sea."
+
+
+
+
+SOUTH-EASTERN RAMBLES
+
+[Illustration: 0046]
+
+|HE is a benefactor to his species who makes two blades of corn grow
+where only one grew before." The substantial truth of the aphorism none
+will question; vet it would be a doubtful benefit if all our waste
+lands were reclaimed and brought under the plough. Enclosure Acts, by
+extending the area of our productive soil, have increased the resources
+of the country and the food of the people. But the total absorption into
+cultivated farms of heath, forest, and woodland would be to purchase the
+utilitarian advantage at too high a price.
+
+The open commons of Surrey and the rolling downs of Sussex are, in their
+way, of a beauty unsurpassed. Both are chiefly due to the great chalk
+formation, which comes down in a south-westerly direction from the
+eastern counties, breaks into the Chiltern Hills, extends over the
+greater part of Wiltshire, Dorsetshire, and Hampshire; and in the east
+of the last-named county becomes separated into two branches; one,
+the "North Downs," running almost due east to the North Foreland
+and Shakespere's Cliff; the other, the "South Downs," pursuing a
+south-easterly direction to Beachy Head. In their long and undulating
+course, they form innumerable combinations of picturesque beauty. Places
+elsewhere, well known and deservedly famous, are rivalled in loveliness
+by many a sequestered scene in the line of the lower chalk country,
+of which few but the thinly-scattered inhabitants, and now and then an
+unconventional tourist, have ever heard.
+
+[Illustration: 0048]
+
+The charm of these lines of rolling upland is much enhanced by the great
+rough plain which they inclose--"the Weald" (i.e. Forest), as it is
+termed--extending in an irregular triangle from the point where the
+Downs diverge to the British Channel. Geologists have framed many
+theories as to the formation of the Weald. It belongs to the Oolite
+formation below the chalk; it is the uppermost member of that formation,
+and was a deposit of sands and clays in a tropical climate, as is
+abundantly evident from animal and vegetable remains found there. These
+prove the existence of islands, banks and forests, forming the shores of
+a vast estuary, the embouchure of some great river from the west. At
+one time, the deep chalk deposit extended all over it; but this was
+disturbed by a line of elevation running along its east and west axis,
+the superincumbent chalk being broken up and washed away; hence the
+cliff-like aspect of the Downs in many places, where they descend
+precipitously to the sandy and gravelly edge of the valley, as to a
+beach. The remains of the huge land lizards and iguanodons of the Weald,
+collected by the late Dr. Mantell, form one of the most conspicuous
+exhibitions of fossil bones in the British Museum. The pretty little
+fossil ferns, Lonchopteris and Sphenopteris, found nature-printed on the
+sandstones, are, on the other hand, the very counterparts, in size and
+delicacy, of their present successors.
+
+In early times, as every local historian tells, the Weald was a chief
+seat of the iron manufacture in Great Britain. The ironstone found here
+was certainly wrought by the Romans and Saxons, if not by the ancient
+Britons; and down to the seventeenth century the trade was prosperous.
+Many an old manor-house, to the present day, attests this former
+prosperity, while its memories linger also in such local names as
+Furnace Place, Cinder Hill, and Hammer Ponds. The balustrades round St.
+Paul's Cathedral are a relic of the Sussex ironworks. Want of fuel, and
+the more abundant and rich ironstone of the Coal-measures, caused the
+decay of the industry, after whole forests had been destroyed to feed
+the furnaces. The old-fashioned cottages, here and there remaining,
+speak of days of former prosperity among the working-classes; nor
+are they even yet devoid of comfort, although the transition has been
+great--ironworkers then, chicken-fatteners now!
+
+The ridge that runs through the centre of the Weald is called the Forest
+Ridge and Ashdown. It is here that the chief beauties of the district
+are concentrated, while the whole plain lies open to view from the
+heights. Starting from East Grinstead, near to which is the source of
+the Medway, a walk of extraordinary interest and sylvan beauty leads by
+Forest Row and the ruins of Brambletye House up to High Beeches; from
+which spot a pleasant excursion may be made to Horsted Keynes, where the
+gentle and saintly Archbishop Leighton lies buried. His grave is in the
+chancel; his tomb outside the church. Thence, bearing to the east, the
+traveller may work his way to Crowborough Beacon, near the road from
+Tunbridge Wells to Lewes, where, with a foreground of moss and fern,
+dotted here and there by fir trees, he may look over the whole rolling
+surface of the Weald, rich with the flowers of spring, the blossoms of
+summer, or the golden fruitage and yellow corn of the autumn; while the
+purple downs on either hand close in the prospect, with just one gleam,
+beyond Beachy Head, of the distant sea. Then, if desirous of prolonging
+his ramble to other points of view, he may cross the hills to
+Heathfield, resting on the way at Mayfield, an old-world Wealden town,
+once a residence of archbishops, and the traditional scene of the
+renowned combat between Dunstan and the Devil. Here the traveller
+may find a temporary resting-place in some rustic hostelry, where,
+if luxuries are not obtainable, the eggs and bacon are wholesome and
+abundant; the sheets are fragrant with lavender, and though perhaps
+a little wondered at by the rustic children, he will have a home-like
+welcome.
+
+[Illustration: 0050]
+
+Again we leave the beaten track, and push on through the vale of
+Heathfield to the south; for a walk of seven or eight miles will bring
+us to Hurstmonceux, inseparably connected with the name and work of
+Archdeacon Hare, the philosophic theologian and devout Christian, whose
+books on the Victory of Faith and the Mission of the Comforter have done
+so much to elevate the religious thought of the age; and who, by
+his _Vindication of Luther_, has made it impossible for any man of
+competent knowledge and fair judgment to repeat old calumnies against
+the great Reformer.
+
+[Illustration: 0051]
+
+We visit the castle--one of the finest remains of the later
+feudalism--fortress and mansion in one. "Persons who have visited Rome,"
+writes Archdeacon Hare, "on entering the Castle-court, and seeing the
+piles of brickwork strewn about, have been reminded of the Baths of
+Caracalla, though of course on a miniature scale; the illusion being
+perhaps fostered by the deep blue of the Sussex sky, which, when
+compared with that in more northerly parts of England, has almost an
+Italian character." After exploring the great ruddy-tinted ruins, we
+may ascend to the church, taking a glance at the rectory, the home of
+so much piety and genius, seeing once again in thought the archdeacon's
+friend and curate, poor John Sterling, as described by Hare, with his
+tall form rapidly advancing across the lawn to the study window; or
+more pensively may pass to the churchyard, where so many members of the
+parted family band sleep as "one in Christ."
+
+Before turning northwards, let us make our way to Beachy Mead, grandest
+of the English chalk headlands in the south; or, resting for a while at
+Eastbourne, that bright modern watering-place, between the sea and the
+hills, with the quaint Sussex village in the background, we may prepare
+for a long, health-giving, inspiring ramble over the South Downs, "that
+chain of majestic mountains," as White of Selborne calls them--for the
+most part bare treeless hills, sweeping in many a grand curve, broken
+by shadowed "coombes," or wooded flowery "deans." On the way to Lewes,
+Firle Beacon, one of the highest points of the Downs, may be ascended,
+after which the traveller may take the rail to Brighton and Shoreham,
+and strike up hill again into what is perhaps the finest part of the
+range, where, from Chanctonbury Ring, he will be able to command at
+one view all its most characteristic features. The height itself is
+conspicuous far and wide, from its dark crown of fir trees. Probably the
+"Ring" denotes here the ancient entrenchment, British or Roman, which
+is circular, or it may be a reminiscence of the time when fairies were
+believed in; "fairy rings" being a common feature of the Downs; caused
+really by the growth of mushrooms, the grass, by the decay of the
+latter, becoming of a deeper green.
+
+[Illustration: 0053]
+
+Steyning is the nearest station to Chanctonbury, and we would advise
+the tourist to take train there for the North Downs, or better still, to
+proceed in the opposite direction to Arundel, famous for its picturesque
+castle and park, with its fair historic pastures: but in either case the
+Weald will be crossed via Horsham. About half way between Arundel and
+Horsham, many a traveller will be disposed to turn off to the little
+Sussex town of Midhurst, on the edge of the Weald, where Richard Cobden
+was born, and where the old "Schola Grammaticalis," the most prominent
+building in the town, has the twin honour of the great Free Trader's
+early education, as well as that of Sir Charles Lyell, the geologist.
+Between this town and Dorking, whither the traveller is bound, he may
+see to his left the wooded slopes and imposing tower-crowned summit of
+Leith Hill, the loftiest elevation in southeastern England. If he can
+leave the rail, say at the little roadside station of Capel, and climb
+the hill from the south-east by Ockley and Tanhurst, he will not only
+be richly rewarded, but may perhaps express his astonishment that such
+views and such a walk should be found within a short afternoon's journey
+of London. From the summit of Leith Hill, it is said that ten counties
+are visible; not only Kent, Sussex, and Surrey, but Hampshire,
+Berkshire, Oxfordshire, Buckinghamshire, Middlesex. Hertfordshire, and
+Essex. The eye ranges, in short, from a height of just less than 1000
+feet over a circumference of 200 miles of fair and various landscape;
+valley and upland; broad meadows and wooded slopes, with many an open
+ridge against the sky. Only the charm of river or lake is wanting;
+but we are in no mood to be critical. Downwards, the walk is full of
+interest, through wooded lanes to Anstiebury, where there is a fine
+Roman encampment, and on to romantic Holmwood, with its pine woods and
+breezy common; past Deepdene, the wonderfully beautiful seat of the
+Hope family, and so to Dorking, where the wearied pedestrian will find a
+pleasant rest, with nothing to excite him, save the remembrances of his
+little excursion.
+
+[Illustration: 0055]
+
+If he were not well prepared for its exceeding loveliness beforehand, it
+must have been to him a surprise as well as a delight. Comparisons are
+proverbially distasteful, but we can understand, if we can not wholly
+endorse, the rapturous verdict of John Dennis, who gives it as his
+opinion that the prospect from Leith Hill "surpasses at once in rural
+charm, pomp, and magnificence" the view of the Val d'Arno from the
+Apennines, or of the Campagna from Tivoli.
+
+[Illustration: 0056]
+
+We are now fairly in the Surrey Hills, and may put what some will think
+the very crown to these south-eastern excursions by a walk from Dorking
+to Farnham. Ascending by one of many lanes, shadowed (at the time of our
+visit) by hedges bright with hawthorn berries, and stately trees just
+touched with the russet and gold of early autumn, we are soon upon an
+upland stretch of heath and forest, still remaining in all the wildness
+of nature. Sometimes the path leads us between venerable trees--oak and
+beech and yew, whose branches form an impenetrable roof overhead, then
+traverses a sweep of bare hill, bright with gorse and heather, then
+plunges into some fairy dell, carpeted with softest moss. Many of the
+"stately homes of England," with their embowering trees upon the lower
+slopes, add a charm to the scene by their reminiscences as well as by
+their beauty. To the left is Wotton; made famous by the name and
+genius of John Evelyn, author of _Sylva_ and the _Diary_--the scholar,
+gentleman, and Christian--pure-minded in an age of corruption, and the
+admiration of dissolute courtiers, who could respect what they would not
+imitate. It is to him that Cowley says:
+
+     "Happy art thou, whom God does bless
+     With the full choice of thine own happiness;
+     And happier yet, because thou'rt blest
+     With wisdom how to choose the best."
+
+That the choice was made, for life and death, appears by the inscription
+which Evelyn directed to be placed on his tombstone at Wotton. "That
+living in an age of extraordinary events and revolution, he had learned
+from thence this truth, which he desired might be thus communicated to
+posterity: that all is vanity which is not honest, and that there is no
+solid wisdom but real piety."
+
+Two or three miles further Albury is reached, with its lovely gardens
+designed by Evelyn. The curious traveller may here inspect the sumptuous
+church erected by the late Mr. Drummond, the owner of Albury, for the
+followers of Edward Irving. The worth of Mr. Drummond's character, with
+the shrewd sense and caustic wit by which he was wont to enliven
+the debates of the House of Commons, laid a deeper hold upon his
+contemporaries than his theological peculiarities; and the special views
+of which this temple is the costly memorial have proved of insufficient
+power to sway the minds and hearts of men. Still ascending, we reach
+again the summit of steep downs, and advancing by noble yew-trees gain
+at Newland's Corner another magnificent view. The hill of the "Holy
+Martyrs'" Chapel, now corrupted to "Saint Martha's," may next be
+climbed, and a short rest at the fine old town of Guildford will be
+welcome. The castle, the churches with their monuments, and Archbishop
+Abbot's Hospital, are all worthy of a visit; but, unless we have a day
+to spare, we must be content with but a hurried glance, for we have
+still the "Hog's Back" to traverse, a ten miles' walk to Farnham.
+
+Climbing from the station at Guildford through pleasant lanes, the
+traveller emerges upon a narrow chalk-ridge, half-a-mile wide, and
+nearly level, which etymologists tell us was called by the Anglo-Saxons
+_Hoga_, a hill, whence the ridge received its name. Possibly, however,
+a simpler derivation, as the more obvious, is also the more correct. The
+long upland unbroken line might not unaptly have been compared with
+one of those long, lean, narrow-backed swine with which early English
+illuminations make us familiar; and the homeliness of the name
+would quite accord with the habit of early topographers. The walk is
+interesting, but, after the varied beauties of the way from Dorking to
+Guildford, may appear at first slightly monotonous. On either side the
+fair, fertile champaign of Surrey stretches to the horizon, broken
+here and there by low wood-crowned hills, and at one point especially,
+between Puttenham on the left, and Wanborough on the right, the
+combinations of view are very striking. Puttenham church-tower, and the
+manor-house, formerly the Priory, peep out from amongst the foliage of
+some grand old trees. A few cottages and farmhouses lie scattered about
+picturesquely, forming the very ideal of an old English village; while
+pine-covered Crooksbury Hill, with the Devil's Jumps and Hindhead in
+the farther distance, make a striking background to the view. "Wan" is
+evidently "Woden," and here there was no doubt a shrine of the ancient
+Saxon deity.
+
+We must not omit in passing to drink of the Wanborough spring, among the
+freshest and purest in England; never known, it is said, to freeze.
+
+Pursuing our journey, we presently look down upon Moor Park and
+Waverley, which we may either visit now, descending by the little,
+village of Seale, or reserve for an excursion from Farnham. Waverley
+contains the picturesque remains of an old Cistercian Abbey, built as
+the Cistercians always did build, in a charming valley, embosomed in
+hills, irrigated by a clear running stream, abounding in fish, and with
+current enough to turn the mill of the monastery. The annals of this
+great establishment, extending over two hundred and thirty years, were
+published towards the close of the seventeenth century; and Sir Walter
+Scott took from them the name now so familiar wherever the English
+language is spoken.
+
+Divided from Waverley by a winding lane, whose high banks and profuse
+undergrowth remind us of Devonshire, lies Moor Park. Hither Sir William
+Temple retired from the toils of State, to occupy his leisure by
+gardening, planting, and in writing memoirs. A trim garden, with
+stiff-clipped hedges, and watered by a straight canal which runs through
+it, is doubtless a reminiscence of Temple's residence as our ambassador
+at the Hague. "But," says Lord Macaulay, "there were other inmates of
+Moor Park to whom a higher interest belongs. An eccentric, uncouth,
+disagreeable young Irishman, who had narrowly escaped plucking at
+Dublin, attended Sir William as an amanuensis for board and twenty
+pounds a year; dined at the second table, wrote bad verses in praise of
+his employer, and made love to a very pretty dark-eyed young girl,
+who waited on Lady Giffard. Little did Temple imagine that the coarse
+exterior of his dependant concealed a genius equally suited to politics
+and to letters, a genius destined to shake great kingdoms, to stir the
+laughter and the rage of millions, and to leave to posterity memorials
+which can only perish with the English language. Little did he think
+that the flirtation in his servants' hall, which he, perhaps, scarcely
+deigned to make the subject of a jest, was the beginning of a long,
+unprosperous love, which was to be as widely famed as the passion of
+Petrarch or Abelard. Sir William's secretary was Jonathan Swift. Lady
+Giffard's waiting-maid was poor Stella."
+
+Just outside the lodge gate, at the end of the park furthest from the
+mansion, is a small house covered with roses and evergreens. It is known
+to the peasantry as Dame Swift's cottage. Our rustic guide pointed it
+out by this name, but who Dame Swift was he did not know. He had never
+heard of Stella and her sad history. An object of far greater interest
+to him was a large fox-earth, a couple of hundred yards away, in which
+some years ago "a miser" had lived and died. A whole crop of legends
+have already sprung up about the mysterious inmate of the cave. He was
+a nobleman, so said our informant, who had been crossed in love: he
+had made a vow that no human being should see his face, and accordingly
+never came out till after nightfall, even then being closely wrapped up
+in his cloak. After his death a party of ladies and gentlemen came
+down from London in a post-chaise and four; and having buried the body
+carried away "a cartload of golden guineas and fine dresses, which he
+had hid in the cave."
+
+[Illustration: 0059]
+
+The picturesqueness of the approach to Farnham, whether over the last
+ridge of the Hog's Back, or through the lanes from Seale, Moor Park,
+and Waverley, is much enhanced by the hop-gardens, which occupy about a
+thousand acres in the neighbourhood. For excellence the Farnham hops are
+considered to bear the palm, although the chief field of this peculiar
+branch of cultivation is in Kent. No south-eastern rambles, especially
+in the early autumn, would be complete without a visit to the gardens
+where the hop-picking is in full operation. It is the great holiday
+for thousands of the humbler class of Londoners, as well as the chosen
+resort of thousands of the "finest pisantry" from the Emerald Isle.
+Costermongers, watermen, sempstresses, factory girls, labourers of
+all descriptions, young and old, bear a hand at the work. The air is
+invigorating, the task to the industrious is easy, and the pay is not
+bad. The hop-pickers, who are in such numbers that they cannot obtain
+even humble lodgings in the villages, sleep in barns, sheds, stables,
+and booths, or even under the hedges in the lanes. A rough kind of
+order is maintained among themselves; although outbreaks of violence and
+debauchery sometimes happen. On the whole the work is not unhealthy, and
+the opportunity of engaging in it is as real a boon to the hop-pickers
+as the journey to Scarborough or Biarritz to those of another class.
+Besides which, the great gathering of people gives opportunities of
+which Christian activity avails itself; and the evening visit to the
+encampment, the homely address, the quiet talk, and the well-chosen
+tract, have been instrumental of lasting good to those whom religious
+agencies elsewhere had failed to reach.
+
+[Illustration: 0060]
+
+Farnham has special associations with both the Church and the Army; and
+the impartial visitor will no doubt take an opportunity of seeing the
+stately moated castle, the abode of the Bishops of Winchester, and of
+visiting the neighbouring camp of Aldershot. The politician will recal
+the name of William Cobbett, who was born in this neighbourhood, and
+in his own direct and homely style, often dwells on his boyish
+recollections of its charms. Some will not forget another name
+associated with this little Surrey town. One among the sweetest singers
+of our modern Israel, Augustus Toplady, was born at Farnham. He died
+at the age of thirty-eight, but he lived long enough to write "Rock of
+Ages, cleft for me and none need covet a nobler earthly immortality."
+
+[Illustration: 0062]
+
+
+
+
+OUR FOREST AND WOODLANDS
+
+|WHEN Britain was first brought by Roman ambition within the knowledge
+of Southern Europe, the interior of our Island was one vast forest.
+Caesar and Strabo agree in describing its towns as being nothing more
+than spaces cleared of trees--"royds," or "thwaites" in North of England
+phrase--where a few huts were placed and defended by ditch or rampart.
+Somersetshire and the adjacent counties were covered by the Coit Mawr,
+or Great Wood. Asser tells us that Berkshire was so called from the Wood
+of Berroc, where the box-tree grew most abundantly. Buckinghamshire was
+so called from the great forests of beech (boc), of which the remnants
+still survive. The Cotswold Hills, and the Wolds of Yorkshire, are shown
+by their names to have been once far-spreading woodlands; and the
+same may be said of the Weald of Sussex, the subject, in part, of the
+preceding chapter. "In the district of the Weald," writes the Rev. Isaac
+Taylor, "almost every local name, for miles and miles, terminates in
+_hurst, ley, den, or field_. The _hursts_ were the dense portions of the
+forests; the _leys_ are the open forest-glades where the cattle love to
+lie; the dens are the deep wooded valleys, and the _fields_ were little
+patches of 'felled' or cleared land in the midst of the surrounding
+forest. From Petersfield and Midhurst, by Billinghurst, Cuckfield,
+Wadhurst, and Lamberhurst, as far as Hawkshurst and Tenterden, these
+names stretch in an uninterrupted string." And, again, "A line of
+names ending in _den_ testifies to the existence of the forest tract in
+Hertfordshire, Bedfordshire, and Huntingdon, which formed the western
+boundary of the East Saxon and East Anglican Kingdoms. Henley in Arden
+and Hampton in Arden are vestiges of the great Warwickshire forest of
+Arden, which stretched from the Forest of Dean to Sherwood Forest." *
+Hampshire was already a forest in the time of William the Conqueror:
+all he did was to sweep away the towns and villages which had sprung
+up within its precincts. Epping and Hainault are but fragments of
+the ancient forest of Essex, which extended as far as Colchester.
+Lancashire, Cheshire, Yorkshire, and the other northern counties, were
+the haunts of the wolf, the wild boar, and the red deer, which roamed at
+will over moorland and forest, and have given their names here and there
+to a bold upland or sequestered nook.
+
+Even down to the time of Oueen Elizabeth immense tracts of primeval
+forest remained unreclaimed. Sir Henry Spelman ** gives the following
+list of those which were still in existence.
+
+     * Words and Places, pp. 381-3.
+
+     ** Quoted in _English Forests and Forest Trees._
+
+[Illustration: 0064]
+
+[Illustration: 0065]
+
+This list is evidently far from complete. It may, however, serve to show
+the extent of unreclaimed land in England so recently as the sixteenth
+century. And here, it should be noted, that though, as a matter of fact,
+forest lands are generally woodlands also, this is not essential to
+the meaning of the word. A "forest," says Mr. Hensleigh Wedgwood, * "is
+properly a wilderness, or uncultivated tract of country; but, as such
+were commonly overgrown with trees, the word took the meaning of a large
+wood. We have many forests in England without a stick of timber upon
+them." It is especially so in Scotland, as many a traveller who has
+ridden all the long day by the treeless "Forest of Breadalbane" will
+well remember.
+
+     * _Dictionary of English Etymology._
+
+The question has been recently much discussed whether our forests
+ought to be retained in their present extent. Economists have shown
+by calculation that forests do not pay. It is said that they encourage
+idleness and poaching, and thus lead to crime. Estimates have been made
+of the amount of corn which might be raised if the soil were brought
+under the plough. Yet few persons who have wandered through the glades
+of our glorious woodlands would be willing to part with them. Admit that
+the cost of maintenance is in excess of their return to the national
+exchequer; yet England is rich enough to bear the loss; and it is a poor
+economy which reduces everything to a pecuniary estimate. "Man shall
+not live by bread alone." In God's world beauty has its place as well as
+utility. "Consider the lilies."
+
+     "God might have made enough--enough
+     For every want of ours,
+     For temperance, medicine, and use,
+     And yet have made no flowers."
+
+"He hath made everything beautiful in his time;" and means that we
+should rejoice in His works as well as feed upon His bounty and learn
+from His wisdom. While by no means insensible to the charm of a richly
+cultivated district, where "the pastures are clothed with flocks, the
+valleys also are covered over with corn," yet let us trust that the day
+is far distant when our few remaining forests shall have disappeared
+before modern improvements and scientific husbandry.
+
+To the lover of nature, forest scenery is beautiful at all seasons.
+How pleasant is it, in the hot summer noon, to lie beneath the "leafy
+screen," through which the sunlight flickers like golden rain; to watch
+the multitudenous life around us--the squirrel flashing from bough to
+bough, the rabbit darting past with quick, jerky movements, the birds
+flitting hither and thither in busy idleness, the columns of insects
+in ceaseless, aimless gliding motion--and to listen to the mysterious
+undertone of sound which pervades rather than disturbs the silence!
+Beautiful, too, are the woods when autumn has touched their greenery
+with its own variety of hue. From the old Speech House of the Forest
+of Dean we have looked out as on a billowy, far extending sea of
+glory--elm, oak, beech, ash, maple, all with their own peculiar tints,
+yet blending into one harmonious chord of colour in the light of the
+westering sun; whilst from among them the holly and the yew stood out
+like green islands set in an ocean of gold.
+
+A little later in the year, and we tread among the rustling leaves,
+whilst over us interlaces in intricate tracery a network of branches,
+twigs, and sprays:--
+
+     "The ruined choirs where late the sweet birds sang."
+
+Return a few weeks afterwards, and surely it will be felt that forest
+scenery is never more fairy-like than when the bare boughs are feathered
+with snowflakes, or sparkle with icicles, that flash like diamonds in
+the wintry sunlight, or faintly tinkle overhead as they sway to and fro
+in the icy breeze. Never is the forest more solemn than when, with a
+sound like thunder or the raging sea, the wind tosses the giant branches
+in wild commotion. We cannot wonder that Schiller delighted to wander
+alone in the stormy midnight through the woods, listening to the tempest
+which raged aloft, or that much of his grandest poetry was composed amid
+scenes like these.
+
+Nor must we forget the aspect of the woods in early spring, when Nature
+is just awaking from her winter's sleep. It needs a quick eye to trace
+the delicate shades of colour which then succeed each other--the dull
+brown first brightening into a reddish hue, as the glossy leaf-cases
+begin to expand, then a faint hint of tender green as the pale leaves
+burst from their enclosure one after another, tinging with colour the
+skeleton branches which they are soon to clothe with their beautiful
+mantle.
+
+     "Mysterious round! What skill, what force divine,
+     Deep felt, in these appear! A simple train,
+     Yet so delightful, mixed with such kind art,
+     Such beauty and beneficence combined,
+     Shade unperceived so softening into shade.
+     And all so forming an harmonious whole,
+     That, as they still succeed, they ravish still."
+
+The New Forest claims precedence over all others, from its extent, its
+picturesque beauty, and its historical associations. Though greatly
+encroached upon since the time that the Conqueror "loved its red deer as
+if he were their father," and the Red King fell beneath the arrow of Sir
+Walter Tyrrell, it still contains long stretches of wild moorland,
+and mighty oaks which may have been venerable in the days of the
+Plantagenets. The red deer have entirely disappeared. About a hundred
+fallow-deer yet remain. They are very shy, hiding themselves in the
+least visited recesses of the Forest, and are rarely seen except during
+the annual hunt, which takes place every spring. In 1874 a pack of
+bloodhounds was brought down by Lord Londesborough, who owns a beautiful
+park near Lyndhurst. The sport, however, is said not to have been very
+good. Numerous droves of forest ponies run wild, and with the herds
+of swine feeding upon the acorns and beech-mast give animation to the
+scene. Amid the forest glades even pigs become picturesque.
+
+Charming excursions may be made into the Forest from the towns on its
+borders, Southampton, Lymington, Christchurch, or Ringwood. But he
+who would fully appreciate its beauties must take up his quarters at
+Lyndhurst, in the very heart of its finest scenery. From this centre,
+walks or drives may be taken in every direction, and in almost endless
+variety. One of these, describing a circuit of about twelve miles, past
+the Rufus Stone and Boldrewood, claims especial mention. The road leads
+for a short distance through a richly-wooded and highly cultivated
+district. On a knoll to the left is a farm-house occupying the site
+of the Keep of Malwood, where William Rufus slept the night before his
+death. From this point vistas, locally known as "peeps," are cut
+through the trees, commanding noble views over the Forest, and extending
+southwards to Southampton Water, the Channel and the Isle of Wight. The
+soil now becomes more barren, and the trees more sparse and stunted. At
+the bottom of a steep descent stood a pyramidal stone, marking the spot
+where the king was slain, bearing on its three sides a record of the
+event. This has now been cased by an iron cylinder, with the original
+inscriptions in bold relief. To the left stretches a long bare ridge of
+moorland, from the summit of which the eye ranges over grand sweeps
+of fern, gorse, and heather, bounded by woodlands to the verge of the
+horizon.
+
+[Illustration: 0068]
+
+The road now passes through a succession of forest glades, over
+smooth green turf, beneath arches of beech and oak, with a luxuriant
+undergrowth of holly and yew. At Burley Lodge we reach some of the
+finest and oldest timber in the Forest. Here formerly stood twelve
+magnificent oaks, known as the "Twelve Apostles." Most of these have,
+disappeared, but two yet remain, which for size, beauty, and venerable
+antiquity are perhaps unequalled. A little farther on, a grove of
+beeches arrests the traveller by the grandeur and beauty of their forms,
+and is a favourite halting-place. Enthusiastic lovers of sylvan scenery,
+artists and others, not infrequently encamp here for days together,
+screened from wind and weather not only by the canvas of their tent,
+but by the impenetrable roof of foliage overhead. Bearing to the south,
+along an intricate labyrinth of woodpaths, through modern plantations
+alternated with clumps of primeval forest, we reach& the cultivated
+district, with smiling farms, stately mansions, and picturesque
+villages, returning thus to Lyndhurst.
+
+[Illustration: 0069]
+
+Before we bid a regretful adieu to this little forest town, we must by
+all means visit the new church. The noble fresco of the Ten Virgins by
+Leighton which forms the altar-piece, is understood to be the munificent
+gift of the artist. The look of sullen or of wild despair on the faces
+of the foolish virgins as they are rejected, and the expression of
+sternness blended with pity in that of the angel who repels them, may
+well awaken solemn thought:
+
+     "Too late! too late! ye cannot enter now!"
+
+[Illustration: 0070]
+
+The Forest of Dean, though less extensive than the New Forest, is hardly
+less beautiful;--
+
+     "The queen of forests all that west of Severn lie."--_Drayton_.
+
+It occupies the high ground between the valleys of the Severn and the
+Wye. What Lyndhurst is to the one, the Speech House is to the other.
+The Foresters' Courts have been held here for centuries, in a large
+hall panelled with dark oak and hung round with deer's antlers. Here the
+"verderers," foresters, "gavellers," miners, and Crown agents meet
+to discuss in open court their various claims in a sort of local
+parliament. Originally the King's Lodge, it is now a comfortable inn,
+affording good accommodation for the lovers of sylvan scenery. The deer
+with which the forest once abounded diminished in numbers up to 1850,
+when they were removed. But, as in the New Forest, droves of ponies
+and herds of swine roam at large among the trees, giving animation and
+interest to the landscape. A different feeling is aroused by the sight
+of furnaces and coal-pits in different directions, indicative of the
+mineral treasures hidden beneath the fair surface of this forest.
+Ironworks have in fact existed here from very early times; the
+forest-trees having, as in the Weald of Sussex, afforded an abundant
+supply of fuel, though (thanks to the coal-beds beneath) without the
+same result in denuding the district of its leafy glories.
+
+Savernake Forest, in Wiltshire, the property of the Marquis of
+Ailesbury, is the only English forest belonging to a subject, and is
+especially remarkable for its avenues of trees. One, of magnificent
+beeches, is nearly four miles in length, and is intersected at one point
+of its course by three separate "walks" or forest vistas, placed at such
+angles as with the avenue itself to command eight points of the compass.
+The effect is unique and beautiful, the artificial character of the
+arrangement being amply compensated by the exceeding luxuriance of the
+thick-set trees, and the soft loveliness of the verdant flowery
+glades which they enclose. The smooth bright foliage of the beech is
+interspersed with the darker shade of the fir, while towering elms and
+majestic wide-spreading oaks diversify the line of view in endless,
+beautiful variety. At one point, a clump of trees will be reached--the
+veterans of the forest, with moss-clad trunks and gnarled half-leafless
+branches; the chief being known as the King Oak, but sometimes called
+the Duke's, from the Lord Protector Somerset, with whom this tree was
+a favourite. The railway from Hungerford to Marlborough skirts this
+forest, the southern portion of which is known as Tottenham Park. An
+obelisk, erected on one of its highest points, in 1781, to commemorate
+the recovery of George III., forms an easily-recognisable landmark,
+and may also guide the wanderer in the forest glades, who might else be
+bewildered by the very uniformity of the lone lines of foliage. On the
+whole, if this Forest of Savernake has not the vast extent, or the wild
+natural beauty of some other forests, it has all the charm that the
+richest luxuriance can give, while some of its noblest I trees will be
+found away from the great avenues, on the gentle slopes or in the mossy
+dells, which diversify the surface of this most beautiful domain. Nor
+will the visitor in spring-time fail to be delighted by the great banks
+of rhododendron and azalea, which at many parts add colour and splendour
+to the scene.
+
+Among our smaller woodlands, Burnham Beeches claim special notice. They
+are reached by a charming drive of five or six miles from Maidenhead.
+The road leads at first through one of the most highly cultivated and
+fertile districts in England, and then enters Dropmore Park, with its
+stately avenues of cedar and pine, and some of the finest araucarias
+in Europe. The Beeches occupy a knoll which rises from the plain, over
+which it commands splendid views, Windsor Castle and the valley of the
+Thames being conspicuous objects in the landscape. The trees are many
+of them of immense girth; but having been pollarded--tradition says by
+Cromwell's troopers--they do not attain a great height. They are thus
+wanting in the feathery grace and sweep which form the characteristic
+beauty of the beech; but, in exchange for this, the gnarled, twisted
+branches are in the very highest degree picturesque, and to the wearied
+Londoner few ways of spending a summer's day can be more enjoyable than
+a ramble over the Burnham Knoll, with its turfy slopes and shaded dells,
+or better still, a picnic with some chosen friends in the shadow of one
+or other of these stupendous trees.
+
+[Illustration: 0072]
+
+Space will not allow us to do more than refer to the forests of Epping
+and Hainault, Sherwood and Charnwood, Whittlebury and Delamere, with
+many others. The names recal the memories of happy days spent beneath
+their leafy screen, or in wandering over the wild moorlands on which
+they stand, with grateful thoughts, too, of--
+
+                        "That unwearied love
+     Which planned and built, and still upholds this world,
+     So clothed with beauty for rebellious man."
+
+
+
+
+SHAKESPEARE'S COUNTRY
+
+[Illustration: 0074]
+
+[Illustration: 0075]
+
+|THE traveller who would enter into the full charm of "Shakspere's
+country" is recommended to start from the quaint and ancient city of
+Coventry, and to pursue the high road to Warwick, taking Kenilworth in
+his way. There is scarcely a walk in England more perfect in its own
+kind of beauty than the five miles from Coventry to Kenilworth. A wide,
+well-kept road follows, almost in a straight line, the undulations
+of the hills. Soon after leaving the city, a broad, flower-enamelled
+coppice, open to the road, is reached; then the hedgerows are flanked
+on both sides with noble elms, forming a stately avenue, through which
+glimpses are ever and anon obtained of purple wood-crested hills in
+the distance. Broad rolling pastures, and cornfields, rich in promise,
+stretch away on either hand; the grassy road-side and high hedge-banks,
+showing the deep red subsoil of the sandstone, or variegated clays of
+the red marls, are bright with wild flowers, and the air is musical
+with the song of birds. Travellers are few; the railway scream in the
+distance, to the left, suggests that all who are in a hurry to reach
+their destination have taken another route; if it be holiday time,
+parties of young men on Coventry bicycles are sure to flash past; but
+it is our delight to linger and enjoy. We are, as Thomas Fuller says,
+in the "Medi-terranean" part of England; and English scenery nowhere
+displays a more characteristic charm.
+
+[Illustration: 0076]
+
+Kenilworth old church and the castle at length are reached; the latter,
+a stately ruin. The visitor will duly note Caesar's Tower, the original
+keep, with its walls, in some parts, sixteen feet thick; then the
+remains of the magnificent banqueting hall, built by John of Gaunt,
+and, lastly, the dilapidated towers erected by Robert Dudley, Earl of
+Leicester, one part of which bears the name of poor Amy Robsart. No
+officious cicerone is likely to offer his services; a trifling gate-fee
+opens the place freely to all, either to rest on the greensward, or to
+climb the battered ramparts; to survey, at one view, the ancient moat,
+the castle garden, the tilt-yard, where knights met in mimic battle;
+the bed of the lake, where sea-fights were imitated for a monarch's
+sport--in short, the impressive memorials of a fashion in life and act
+that have long since yielded to nobler things. "The massy ruins," says
+Sir Walter Scott, "only serve to show what their splendour once was,
+and to impress on the musing visitor the transitory value of human
+possessions, and the happiness of those who enjoy a humble lot in
+industrious contentment." There are other lessons, too, national,
+as well as individual; and we turn away from old Kenilworth with
+thankfulness that the ruins of the nineteenth century will at least tell
+to our descendants no tales of feudal tyranny, of royal murders, or of
+sanguinary civil strife.
+
+[Illustration: 0078]
+
+The town of Kenilworth is of considerable size, containing, at the last
+census, more than 3,000 inhabitants. The traveller may rest here, or in
+a quaint little hostelry close to the castle gates, not forgetting to
+visit the ancient church--that at the other end of the town is modern,
+and need not detain him. After due refreshment, he will probably be in
+the humour for another five miles' walk, or drive, along a road almost
+equal in beauty to that by which he came, to Warwick, calling at Guy's
+Cliff by the way. He had better make up his mind, for the time at least,
+to believe in Guy, "the Saxon giant who slew the dun cow," and, after a
+life of doughty deeds, retired to a hermitage, here where the Avon opens
+into a lake-like transparent pool, at the foot of the exquisitely-wooded
+cliff. The cave of the giant's retreat may be seen; and the traveller
+will be charmed by the fair mansion on the one side overhanging the
+Avon, and on the other opening down a long avenue, flowery and verdant,
+to the high road.
+
+[Illustration: 0079]
+
+Warwick Castle is so frequently visited, that it needs little
+description. The winding road, cut out of the solid rock from the
+lodge to the castle gate, is a fitting approach to the stately
+fortress-palace, and well prepares the visitor for what is to follow.
+Some will prefer to roam the gardens, so far as watchful custodians
+permit, turning aside to the solid-looking Gothic conservatory to see
+the great Warwick vase, brought from fair Tivoli; others will follow the
+courteous housekeeper down the long suite of castle halls, poting the
+glorious views from the deep embayed windows, duly admiring the bed in
+which Queen Anne once slept, with the portrait of her majesty, plump and
+rubicund, on the opposite wall. The logs heaped up, as logs have been
+for centuries, in readiness for the great hall-fire, carry the mind
+back to olden fashions; the inlaid table of precious stones, said to be
+"worth" ten thousand pounds, excites a languid curiosity; the helmet
+of Oliver Cromwell, an authentic relic, suggests many a thought of
+the great brain which it once enclosed; and, while other items in the
+antique show pass as phantasmagoria before the bewildered attention,
+there are some portraits on the walls, to have seen which is a lasting
+pleasure of memory. It is a happy thing that these were spared by the
+fire of 1871; justly counted as a national calamity rather than a
+family misfortune. The traces of the conflagration are now almost wholly
+removed, although some priceless treasures have been irrecoverably lost.
+
+[Illustration: 0080]
+
+At the lodge, by the castle gate, there is a museum of curiosities,
+which will interest the believers in the great "Guy," and will amuse
+others. For there is the giant's "porridge pot" of bell-metal, vast in
+circumference and resonant in ring; with his staff, his horse's armour,
+and, to crown all, some ribs of the "dun cow" herself! What if, in sober
+truth, some last lingerer of a species now extinct roamed over the
+great forest of Arden, the terror of the country, until Sir Guy wrought
+deliverance?
+
+Warwick itself need not detain us long; the church, however, demands
+a visit; and the Beauchamp Chapel, with its monuments, is one of the
+finest in England. But the pedestrian will probably elect to spend the
+night at Leamington, close by, before continuing his pilgrimage. A visit
+to the ever beautiful Jephson Gardens, with their wealth of evergreen
+oaks, soft turfy lawn, and broad fair water, will afford him a
+pleasant evening, and the next morning will see him _en route_ for
+Stratford-upon-Avon.
+
+[Illustration: 8081]
+
+Again let him take the road, drinking in the influence of the pleasant
+Warwickshire scene; quiet, rural loveliness varying with every mile, and
+glimpses of the silver Avon at intervals enhancing the charm. A slight
+detour will lead to Hampton Lucy, and Charlecote House and Park,
+memorable for the exploits of Shakspere's youth, and for the worshipful
+dignity of Sir Thomas Lucy, the presumed original of Mr. Justice
+Shallow. The park having been skirted, or crossed, the tourist
+proceeds three or four miles further by a good road, and enters
+Stratford-upon-Avon by a stone bridge of great length, crossing the Avon
+and adjacent low-lying meadows.
+
+The bridge, which dates from the reign of Henry VII., has been widened
+on an ingenious plan, by a footpath, supported on a kind of iron
+balcony.
+
+It is easy, however, to imagine its exact appearance when Shakspere
+paced its narrow roadway, or hung over its parapet to watch the skimming
+swallow or the darting trout and minnow.
+
+This Warwickshire town has been so often and so exhaustively described,
+that we may well forbear from any minute detail. Every visitor knows,
+with tolerable accuracy, what he has to expect. He finds, as he had
+anticipated, a quiet country town, very much like other towns; neither
+obtrusively modern, nor quaintly antique--in one word, common-place,
+save for the all-pervading presence and memory of Shakspere. The house
+in Henley Street, where he is said to have been born, will be first
+visited, of course; then the tourist will walk along the High Street,
+noting the Shakspere memorials in the shop-windows, looking up as he
+passes to the fine statue of the poet, placed by Garrick in front of the
+Town Hall.
+
+At the site of New Place, now an open, well-kept garden, with here and
+there some of the shattered foundations of the poet's house, protected
+by wire-work, on the greensward, the visitor will add his tribute of
+wonder, if not of contempt, to the twin memories of Sir Hugh Clopton,
+who pulled down Shakspere's house in one generation, and of the Rev.
+Francis Gastrell, who cut down Shakspere's mulberry-tree in another.
+Just opposite are the guild chapel, the guild hall, with the
+grammar-school where the poet, no doubt, received his education; and,
+after some further walking, the extremity of the town will be reached,
+where a little gate opens to a charming avenue of over-arching
+lime-trees, leading to the church.
+
+[Illustration: 0082]
+
+Before he enters, let him pass round to the other side, where the
+churchyard gently slopes to the Avon, and drink in the tranquillity and
+beauty of the rustic scene. Then, after gaining admission, he will go
+straight to the chancel and gaze upon those which, after all, are the
+only memorials of the poet which possess a really satisfying value, the
+monument and the tomb.
+
+[Illustration: 0084]
+
+As all the world knows, the tomb is a dark slab, lying in the chancel,
+the inscription turned to the east. No name is given, only the lines
+here copied from a photograph:
+
+     "Good Frend for Jesvs sake forbeare
+     To DIGG THE DVST ENCLOASED HEAEE:
+     Blest be ye man v'spares thes stones,
+     And cvrst be he yl moves mv bones.
+
+[Illustration: 0085]
+
+To suppose these lines written by Shakspere himself, seems absurd.
+They are not, indeed, the only doggrel unjustly fathered upon him. The
+prostrate figure on a tomb in the east wall of the chancel, representing
+Shakspere's contemporary and intimate, John-a-Combe, suggests another
+stanza, even inferior in taste and diction. But we have no room now
+for such thoughts. Above us, on the left, is the monument of the poet,
+coloured;  not content with "improving" the plays, caused the bust
+also to be improved by a coating of white paint, how the barbarism was
+removed in 1861, and the statue restored, is a tale often told. The
+effigy certainly existed within seven years of Shakspere's death, so
+that, in all probability, we have a faithful representation of the poet
+as his contemporaries knew him.
+
+[Illustration: 9086]
+
+The inscription is clumsy enough, but proves that the poet's greatness
+was not, as sometimes alleged, unrecognised in his own generation. The
+epitaph on Mistress Susanna Hall, a higher note. Thus it began
+
+     "Witty above her sex--but that's not all--
+     Wise to salvation, was good Mistress Hall.
+     Something of Shakspere was in that; but this
+     Wholly of Him with Whom she's now in bliss."
+
+It is to be regretted that this inscription has been effaced, to make
+room for the epitaph of some obscure descendant. That to Shakespere's
+widow, the wife of his youth, Anne Hathaway however remains placed over
+Her grave by her son; there is something in it pathetically and nobly
+Christian. It is in Latin, and may be rendered freely: "My mother: thou
+gavest me milk and life: alas, for me, that I can but repay thee with a
+sepulchre! Would that some good angel might roll the stone away, and
+thy form come forth in the Saviour's likeness! But my prayers avail not.
+Come quickly, O Christ! then shall my mother, though enclosed in the
+tomb, arise and mount to heaven!"
+
+Before leaving the church we may note some monuments worth attention,
+at least in any other place; as well as a stained glass window, not yet
+complete, but intended to illustrate from Scripture Shakspere's Seven
+Ages of Man. Moses the infant, Jacob the lover, Deborah the Judge, and
+one or two other representations are finished, but the observer feels
+that the types of character are not Shakspere's.
+
+The day's explorations are not yet over. The epitaph on Anne Hathaway's
+tomb, if nothing else, has quickened our desire to know something more
+of her surroundings in those days when Shakspere won and wooed her in
+her rustic home. Retracing our steps through the town, we are directed
+to a field-path bearing straight for Shottery, a village but a mile
+distant. It is not difficult to picture the youthful lover, perhaps,
+out here in the fair open country, among the wild flowers which line the
+walk, and which he has so well described, for there are few traditions
+of Stratford-upon-Avon better authenticated than that which represents
+this as Shakspere's walk in the clays when he "went courting." The
+village is a straggling one, with a look of comfort about its farmsteads
+and cottages; and, at the furthest extremity from Stratford, in a
+pleasant dell, opposite a willow-shaded stream, we find the cottage,
+not much altered, it may be, in externals, since the poet, then a lad of
+eighteen, there found his bride. The capacious chimney-corner, where
+no doubt the lovers sat, is genuine; and other antique relics, from a
+carved bed to an old Bible, carry the mind back, at least, to the era
+of the poet; while the garden and orchard, with the well of pure spring
+water, must be much as Shakspere saw them.
+
+And now having returned to our comfortable hotel--where almost every
+room, by the way, is named after one of the dramas, ours being "All's
+well that ends well"--what was the net result of the visit in regard
+to the personality and history of the great poet? It may seem a strange
+thing to confess, but the effect of the whole was to put Shakspere
+himself further from us, and to deepen the mystery which every student
+of his life and works finds so perplexing. For, save the monument and
+the tomb, there was absolutely nothing to tell of the poet's life;
+no scrap of his writing, no book known to have been his, no original
+authentic record of his words and deeds, no contemporary portrait, no
+object, whether article of furniture, pen, inkstand, or other implement
+of daily use, associated with his name. Strange that a generation,
+which, as we have seen, so honoured his genius and character, should not
+have preserved the poorest or smallest memorial of his life among them!
+True, there is an old, worm-eaten desk in the birth-place, at which he
+may have, sat in the grammar-school; in a room in the town above the
+seed-shop there is a rude piece of carving, representing David and
+Goliath, which once ornamented a room of the house in Henley Street, and
+bears an inscription, "said to have been composed by Shakspere," A.D.
+1606. Let our readers judge:
+
+     "Goliath comes with sword and spear,
+     And David with his sling:
+     Although Goliath rage and swear
+     Down David doth him bring."
+
+For the rest, the relics are evidently imported: an ancient bedstead,
+old-fashioned chairs, and the like; interesting in their way, but
+with nothing to tell us of the poet. He remains to the most zealous
+relic-hunter as great a mystery as Homer himself. Or if in anything here
+we see the poet, it is in those scenes of external nature which he has
+so vividly pictured. We find him among the flowers: beside the
+
+         "bank whereon the wild thyme blows,
+     Where oxlips and the nodding violet grows,
+     Quite over-canopied with luscious woodbine,
+     With sweet musk-roses and with eglantine."
+
+[Illustration: 0089]
+
+By a happy ingenuity the garden of the house in Henley Street, now
+prettily and daintily kept, has been planted to a great extent
+with Shakspere's flowers; "pansies for thoughts," "rosemary for
+remembrance," with "columbines," the "blue-veined violets," the wild
+thyme, woodbine, musk-rose, and many more. His works are his true
+monument; and of these there is, in the same house, a very large and
+noble collection, with a whole library of literature bearing upon them,
+gathered with admirable care. Yet how few autobiographical details do
+the volumes contain! How hopeless the task of constructing, even from
+the sonnets, a connected picture of his life and career! And of the
+half-dozen anecdotes which have in one way or other descended to us of
+his words and ways, who can say that any detail is true?
+
+[Illustration: 9090]
+
+It is, perhaps, from the portraits, after all, that we may gain the most
+trustworthy impression of the poet's individuality. That on the tomb is
+for obvious reasons the most valuable. There it has been, in the sight
+of all men, from the very days of Shakspere. The eyes of his widow and
+of their children must often have rested upon it; and there can be no
+doubt that it presents the true aspect of the man. The engravings of
+the bust, and even the photographs, seem to us to exaggerate the calm,
+serene expression of the countenance. Partly, it may be, from the effect
+of the colouring on the full and shapely cheeks, there is an air almost
+of joviality about the face. It is quite as easy to recognise the
+Warwickshire squire of New Place, as to feel the presence of the poet
+of all time. There is, in the Henley Street house, a portrait of
+extraordinary history; lately discovered. The antiquity of this portrait
+seems indubitable; but the face seems a copy, and, so far as we could
+judge without seeing the two side by side, of that on the monument.
+For the we naturally associate with Shakspere, we must go rather to
+the "Chandos portrait," now in the National Portrait Gallery, or to the
+terra-cotta bust, disinterred in 1845, from the site of the old theatre
+in Lincoln's Inn Fields, and presented by the Duke of Devonshire to
+the Garrick Club. In a somewhat rough fashion, the Droeshout portrait,
+prefixed to the first folio edition of the plays, in 1623, gives
+a similar impression of power; and Ben Jonson, who knew Shakspere
+personally, testifies strongly to its correctness:
+
+     "This figure that thou here seest put,
+     It was for gentle Shakspere cut;
+     Wherein the graver had a strife
+     With Nature, to outdo the Life."
+
+But most of all is the greatness of Shakspere brought home to us by the
+simple record of the names of those who, from all quarters of the world,
+have come to this little Warwickshire town, to do homage to his memory.
+In all the world there is no shrine of pilgrimage like this, not only
+in the number of the visitants, but in their wonderful variety in
+character, temperament, and belief.
+
+[Illustration: 9091]
+
+The power of the spell shows the magician. The fading pencilled
+inscriptions which cover the walls of the chamber in Henley Street; the
+pages of the autograph books; the words in which visitors have recorded
+their impressions, attest the strange attractiveness and power of this
+one genius. Perhaps the most interesting of the autograph books is that
+which was removed from the house in Henley Street many years ago, and is
+now to be seen in the room over the seed-room, to which we have referred
+already. It seems to have been purchased and presented by an American
+gentleman, Mr. T. H. Perkins, of Boston, in 1812; and its pages contain
+the autographs of Sir Walter Scott, Lord Byron, Miss Edge-a Baillie,
+James Professors Sedgarence," "Arthur, Duke of Wellington," with a host
+beside. A thoughtful hour may well be spent in turning the well-worn
+pages, and in meditating on "the vanity and glory of literature."
+
+For there was one point in which even Shakspere failed, and the admiring
+reverence with which we join the throng of pilgrims to the shrine never
+passes into _worship_. We mean, of course, such "worship" as a
+merely human being may supposably claim; and, in view of the highest
+possibilities of our nature, we mark in Shakspere a certain limitation
+on the _heavenward_ side of his genius. The point at which intellectual
+sympathy and admiring affection pass into adoration, is the point
+at which we are raised _beyond ourselves_, and made conscious of the
+infinite. Never will our moral nature consent to unite with our reason
+and our heart in yielding its deepest worth, reverence, until it is
+uplifted into that sphere in which we can only walk by faith, and from
+which we can look down upon earthly things dwarfed and humbled by the
+comparison with the illimitable beyond.
+
+Now Shakspere's genius belongs essentially to the lower sphere. On
+earth he is the master. Every phase of nature, every subtilty of the
+intellect, every winding of the heart, is familiar to him. To use
+the comparison, often repeated because always felt to be so true, his
+wonderful mind was the mirror of all earthly shapes and various human
+energies. His own idiosyncracy never appears; the mirror is absolutely
+colourless and true. His genius is universal: in reading him we are but
+surveying the face of nature. To many a subtle criticism, the answer has
+been given, Shakspere surely never meant this! The reply may be, perhaps
+not, but nature meant it; and, therefore, we have a right to find it
+there! Such is the highest achievement of _literature_, whose business
+it is to reflect the facts of the world, of society, of the human
+heart--plentifully to declare the thing as it is, and compendiously
+to reduce this round world into the microcosm of a book. Here is
+Shakspere's transcendent power, and the secret of his supremacy among
+writers. He is simply the greatest literary man that ever lived.
+The transparency of the mirror, to return to the illustration, is
+maintained, not only by the absence of intrusive individuality, but by
+his perfect mastery over the instrument of expression. It is worth while
+to read his dramas over again, as a study of language alone. No writer
+has ever approached Shakspere in the precision, picturesqueness, and the
+finished, yet seemingly careless, beauty of his diction. His prose is
+even more marvellous than his poetry. In the sense in which we use the
+word "classic," his works may truly be called the foremost classic of
+the world.
+
+What, then, is the defect which will for ever prevent Shakspere from
+receiving the entire homage of the heart of man? In a sentence, the
+mirror is turned towards earth alone, and in its very completeness hides
+heaven from the view. "It would be impossible," says a contemporary
+writer, "to find a more remarkable example of a genius wide as the
+world, yet _not_ in any sense _above_ the world, than our great English
+poet's." And again, "it would be almost impossible to find any great
+Christian poet whose type of imagination is so entirely and singularly
+_contrasted_ with that of the Bible, or in whom that peculiar faculty
+which, for want of a better term, we are forced to call the thirst _for
+the supernatural_, is more remarkably absent."
+
+This statement we accept, in full remembrance of the morals manifold,
+the theological references, and Scriptural parallels, which are
+scattered through the poet's writings. Bishop Wordsworth, of
+St. Andrew's, and others, have spent much labour, not altogether
+unprofitably, in showing that Shakspere knew his Bible: while, oddly
+enough, among the passages expunged by the estimable Bowdler, the
+Biblical references occupy a considerable place, as though it had been
+profanity to introduce them in such a connexion! The most is made of
+Shakspere's religiousness by the present Archbishop of Dublin, in a
+sermon preached at Stratford-upon-Avon at the Shakspere Tercentenary, in
+1864.
+
+He knew the deep corruption of our fallen nature, the desperate
+wickedness of the heart of man; else he would never have put into the
+mouth of a prince of stainless life such a confession as this: 'I am
+myself indifferently honest: but yet I could accuse one of such things
+that it were better my mother had not borne me.... with more offences
+at my beck than I have thoughts to put them in, imagination to give
+them shape, or time to act them in.' He has set forth the scheme of
+our redemption in words as lovely as have ever flowed from the lips of
+uninspired man:--
+
+     'Why, all the souls that live were forfeit once,
+     And He that might the vantage best  have Look,
+     Found out the remedy.'
+
+He has put home to the holiest here their need of an infinite
+forgiveness from Him who requires truth in the inward parts:
+
+     'How would you be,
+     If He, which is the top of judgment, should
+     But judge you as you are?'
+
+"He was one who was well aware what a stewardship was his own in those
+marvellous gifts which had been entrusted to him, for he has himself
+told us:--
+
+     'Heaven does with us as we with torches do,
+     Not light them for themselves: for if our virtues
+     Did not go forth of us,'twere all alike
+     As if we had them not.'
+
+And again he has told us that
+
+     'Spirits are not finely touched
+     But for fine issues:'
+
+Assuredly not ignorant how finely his own had been touched, and what
+would be demanded from him in return. He was one who certainly knew that
+there is none so wise that he can 'circumvent God;' and that for a man,
+whether he be called early or late,
+
+     'Ripeness is all.'
+
+Who shall persuade us that he abode outside of that holy temple of our
+faith, whereof he has uttered such glorious things--admiring its beauty,
+but not himself entering to worship there?
+
+To the same effect, we may quote the preliminary sentence of Shakspere's
+will: "I commend my soul into the hands of God, my Creator, hoping,
+and assuredly believing, through the only merits of Jesus Christ, my
+Saviour, to be made partaker of life everlasting." With such a master of
+words, this avowal would be no mere formality. During Shakspere's last
+residence at Stratford, moreover, the town was under strong religious
+influences. Many a "great man in Israel," in fraternal visits to
+the Rev. Richard Byfield, the vicar, is said to have been hospitably
+entertained at New Place; and memorable evenings must have been spent in
+converse on the highest themes. In addition to all this, the following
+sonnet furnishes an interesting proof that the heart of Shakspere, at an
+earlier period, had not been unsusceptible to religious sentiments and
+aspirations:--
+
+     "Poor soul, the centre of my sinful earth,
+     Fooled by those rebel powers that thee array,
+     Why dost thou pine within, and suffer dearth,
+     Painting thy outward walls so costly gay?
+     Why so large cost, having so short a lease,
+     Dost thou upon thy fading mansion spend?
+     Shall worms, inheritors of thine excess,
+     Eat up thy charge? Is this thy body's end?
+     Then, soul, live thou upon thy body's loss,
+     And let that pine to aggravate thy store;
+     Buy terms divine in selling hours of dross;
+     Within be fed, without be rich no more:
+     So shalt thou feed on death, that feeds on men,
+     And, death once dead, there's no more dying then."
+     --_Sonnet_  146.
+
+All that such words suggest we gladly admit among the probabilities
+of Shakspere's unknown life. But in his dramas themselves we find no
+assured grasp of the highest spiritual truth, nothing to show that such
+truth controlled his views of life with imperial sway; little or
+nothing to uplift the reader from the play of human passions and the
+entanglement of human interests to the higher realms of Faith. It is
+the same Shakspere who reveals the depths of human corruption, and the
+nobleness of human excellence. But in portraying the latter, he stops
+short, and fails exactly where the higher light of faith would
+have enabled him to complete the delineation. His best and greatest
+characters are a law unto themselves: his men are passionate and strong;
+his women are beautiful, with a loveliness that scarcely ever reminds us
+of heaven: he has neither "raised the mortal to the skies," nor "brought
+the angel down."
+
+We turn, then, from Stratford-upon-Avon, feeling, as we have said,
+more deeply than ever the mystery that overhangs the career of the man,
+admiring, if possible, more heartily than ever the genius of the poet,
+and acknowledging, not without mournfulness, how much greater Shakspere
+might have been. For there was an inspiration within his reach that
+would have made him chief among the witnesses of God to men; and his
+magnificent endowments would then have been the richest offering ever
+placed by human hand upon that Altar which "sanctifieth both the giver
+and the gift."
+
+
+
+
+THE COUNTRY OF BUNYAN AND COWPER.
+
+[Illustration: 0096]
+
+[Illustration: 0097]
+
+|SOME of the most characteristic excursions through the gently
+undulating rural scenery which distinguishes so large a portion of the
+south midland district of England may be made along the towing-paths of
+the canals. The notion may appear unromantic; the pathway is artificial,
+yet it has now become rusticated and fringed with various verdure; some
+of the associations of the canal are anything but attractive--but upon
+the whole the charm is great. A wide, level path, driven straight across
+smiling valleys and by the side of hills, here and there skirting a fair
+park, and occasionally bringing some broad open landscape into
+sudden view, with the gleam and coolness of still waters ever at the
+traveller's side, affords him a succession of pictures which perhaps the
+"strong climber of the mountain's side" may disdain, but which to many
+will be all the more delightful, because they can be enjoyed with no
+more fatigue than that of a leisurely, health-giving stroll.
+
+It was by such a walk as this through some of the pleasantest parts
+of Hertfordshire that we first made our way to Berkhampstead--the
+birthplace of William Cowper, turning from the canal bank to the
+embowered fragments of the castle, and through the quiet little town to
+the "public way,"--the pretty rural bye-road where the "gardener Robin"
+drew his little master to school:
+
+     "Delighted with the bauble coach, and wrapped
+     In scarlet mantle warm, and velvet capped,"
+
+while the fond mother watched her darling from the "nursery window," the
+memory of which one pathetic poem has made immortal.
+
+In a well-known sentence, Lord Macaulay affirms in reference to the
+seventeenth century, "We are not afraid to say, that though there were
+many clever men in England during the latter half of that century, there
+were only two minds which possessed the imaginative faculty in a very
+eminent degree. One of these minds produced the _Paradise Lost_; the
+other, the _Pilgrim's Progress_." Similarly, with regard to the brilliant
+literary period which began towards the close of the eighteenth century,
+"we are not afraid to say," that although there were many poets in
+England of no mean order, there were but two to whom it was given to
+view nature simply and sincerely, so as adequately to express "the
+delight of man in the works of God." One of these poets produced the
+_Task_, the other the _Exclusion_.
+
+[Illustration: 0098]
+
+When Macaulay wrote, the place of Bunyan in literature was still held
+a little doubtful; the place of Cowper among poets is not wholly
+unquestioned now. Some are impatient of his simplicity, others scorn his
+piety, many cannot escape, as they read, from the shadow of the darkness
+in which he wrote. But we cannot doubt that, when the coming reaction
+from feverishness and heathenism in poetry shall have set in, the name
+of Cowper will win increasing honour; men will search for themselves
+into the source of those bright phrases, happy allusions, "jewels five
+words long, that on the stretched forefinger of all time sparkle for
+ever," for which the world is often unconsciously indebted to his
+poems; while his incomparable letters will remain as the finest and
+most brilliant specimens of an art which penny-postage, telegrams, and
+post-cards have rendered almost extinct in England.
+
+No one at any rate will wonder now that we should turn awhile from more
+outwardly striking or enchanting scenes to the ground made classic and
+sacred to the English Christian by the memories of Bunyan and Cowper. We
+may associate their names, not only from their brotherhood in faith and
+teaching, but from the coincidence which identifies their respective
+homes with one and the same river, and blends their memories with the
+fair still landscapes through which it steals.
+
+[Illustration: 0099]
+
+The Ouse, most meandering of English streams, waters a country almost
+perfectly level throughout, though here and there fringed by the
+undulations of the receding Chilterns;--with a picturesqueness derived
+from rich meadows, broad pastures with flowery hedgerows, and tall
+stately trees; while in many places the still river expands into a
+miniature lake, with water lilies floating upon its bosom. Among scenes
+like these the great dreamer passed his youth, in his village home at
+Elstow; often visiting the neighbouring town of Bedford, where we may
+picture him as leaning in many a musing fit over the old Ouse Bridge, on
+which the town prison then stood. How little, did John Bunyan then think
+what those prison walls would become to him and to the world! The bridge
+is gone, the town has become a thriving modern bustling place; only the
+river remains, and the country walk to Elstow is little changed. There
+is the cottage which tradition identifies with Bunyan: with the church
+and the belfry, so memorable in the record of his experiences, the
+village green on which in his thoughtless youth he used to play at
+"tip-cat:" there is nothing more to see, but it is impossible to pace
+through those homely ways without remembering how once the place was
+luminous to his awe-stricken spirit with "the light that never was on
+sea or shore," and the landscape on which his inward eye was fixed was
+that which was closed in by the great white throne.
+
+[Illustration: 9100]
+
+It is remarkable that there is in Bunyan's writings so little of
+local colouring. His fields, hills and valleys are not of earth. The
+"wilderness of this world" through which he wandered was something quite
+apart from the Bedfordshire flats, although indeed "the den" on which
+he lighted is but too truthful a representation of the prison on the old
+Ouse Bridge. Even where familiar scenes may have supplied the groundwork
+of the picture, incidental touches show that his soul was beyond
+them. His hillsides are covered with "vineyards;" the meadows by the
+riverside are fair with "lilies;" the fruits in the orchard have mystic
+healing virtue. The scenery of Palestine rather than of Bedfordshire is
+present to his view, and his well-loved Bible has contributed as much
+to his descriptions as any reminiscences of his excursions around his
+native place. *
+
+     * It has recently been argued, with some plausibility, that
+     Bunyan may have derived some of his pictures of scenery from
+     his preaching excursions to the Surrey hills and the Sussex
+     Weald (see pp. 33-35), where he would often cross the track
+     of "the Canterbury pilgrims." "It is said that he frequently
+     selected the hilly districts of South Surrey as his hiding-
+     place; two houses, one on Quarry Hill, Guildford, and the
+     other known as Horn Hatch, on Shalford Common, being pointed
+     out as among those he occupied.".... "The struggles of the
+     pedestrian through the Shalford swamp might have given
+     Bunyan the original idea of the _Slough of Despond_; the
+     Surrey Hills he loved so well might be called the
+     _Delectable Mountains_; St. Martha's Hill would answer
+     perfectly his description of the _Hill Difficulty_; the Vale
+     of Albury, amid the picturesque scenery of which he passed
+     so many days of true humiliation, might be considered the
+     _Valley of Humiliation_; and lastly, the name _Doubting
+     Castle_ actually exists to this day, near the Pilgrims' Way,
+     being approached, as its namesake was supposed lo be, by a
+     path near Box Hill. It is right, however, to state that the
+     antiquity of the last name quoted is not verified."--Notes
+     on the Pilgrims' Way in West Surrey; by Captain E. Renouard
+     James, R.E. Stanford, 1871.
+
+But it was after all in no earthly walks or haunts of men that he found
+the prototypes of his immortal pictures. They are idealised experiences,
+and from the Wicket gate to the Land of Beulah they all represent what
+he had seen and felt only in his soul.* No doubt the people are in
+many cases less abstract. A very remarkable edition of the _Pilgrim's
+Progress_, published some years ago by an artist of rare promise, since
+deceased, portrayed the personages of the allegory in the very guise
+in which Bunyan must often have met their originals up and down in
+Bedfordshire. Such faces may be seen to-day. We ourselves thought we saw
+Mr. Honesty, in a brown coat, looking at some bullocks in the Bedford
+market-place. Ignorance tried to entice us into a theological discussion
+at the little country-side inn where we rested for the night: the next
+morning, as we passed along, Mercy was knitting at a farmhouse door,
+while young Mr. Brisk, driving by in his gig, made her an elaborate bow,
+of which we were glad to see she took the slightest possible notice.
+
+     * The impression made upon a passing traveller through
+     Bunyan's Country is well expressed in some verses entitled
+
+Bedford is now at least rich in memorials of its illustrious citizen and
+prisoner for conscience' sake. The Bunyan Statue, presented by the Duke
+of Bedford, was erected in 1874, and is one of the noblest and most
+characteristic out-of-door monuments in England. It has indeed been
+suggested that Bunyan might more appropriately have been represented
+in the attitude of writing than in that of preaching; but it should be
+remembered that the latter was the work he chose and loved, and that
+his greatest works were penned during the period of enforced silence.
+It is therefore with a fine appropriateness that he is represented as
+standing, as if in the presence of some vast congregation, the Bible
+in his hand, his eyes uplifted to heaven, while upon the pedestal are
+carved his own words, expressive of his own highest ideal.
+
+            "THROUGH BEDFORDSHIRE BY RAIL.
+
+  "Far behind we leave the clangour of the smoky northern town;
+  Now' we hurry through a country all brown-green and sweet grey-brown:
+  Landscapes gently undulating where light shadows softly pass,
+  Quiet rivers silent flowing through the rarely-trodden grass.
+
+  Here and there a few sheep grazing 'neath the hedgerow poplars tall.
+  Here and there a brown-thatched homestead or a rustic cottage small;
+  As we rush on road or iron through the fields on either hand,
+  In the autumn twilight gravely smiles John Bunyan's land.
+
+  More than all the fells and mountains we have passed upon our way,
+  More than e'en that giant city we shall greet ere close of day,
+  Touches us the tender beauty, soft, harmonious, simple, quaint,
+  Of these fields and winding bye-lanes where yet linger, sweet and faint,
+  Echoes of long-vanished ages, rustic homes one might have seen
+  In the old days when John Bunyan played at cat on Elstow Green,
+  Meadows still as when he wandered seeking God; while on each hand,
+  Gravely smiling in the twilight, lay John Bunyan's land.
+
+  Tender as the closing music of the Mighty Dreamer's lay,
+  Lies the country gently round us, all brown-green and soft brown-grey.
+  Tender are our thoughts towards it, as we ponder o'er the book
+  That has travelled through the wide world from this homely, rural nook.
+
+  Tenderly we name John Bunyan, martyr, poet, hero, saint,
+  Faithful pastor, strong and loving, like his Bedford, simple, quaint.
+  Ah! the happy tears half blind us as we gaze on either hand
+  O'er the gravely smiling beauty of John Bunyan's land."--Lizzie Aldridge.
+
+[Illustration: 0102]
+
+No visitor to Bedford will neglect the rapidly accumulating Bunyan
+Museum, comprising not only some simple relics of his lifetime, as
+his staff, jug, and the like, with books bearing his autograph--his
+priceless Bible and Foxes Martyrs--but the various editions of his
+works, and in particular a collection of the illustrations of the
+_Pilgrim's Progress_, from the first rude designs to the latest products
+of artistic skill. These are stored with reverent care, in connexion
+with the place of worship occupied by the Christian Church to which he
+ministered, and now known as Bunyan Meeting. To this edifice, likewise,
+a pair of massive bronze gates have been contributed by the Duke of
+Bedford, with panels illustrative of scenes from the allegory.
+
+[Illustration: 0104]
+
+Altogether, if we have found in the neighbourhood of Bedford no
+Delectable Mountains, nor Valley of Humiliation, nor Land of Beulah,
+we have at least seen much pleasant English scenery, a fertile,
+well-cultivated country, and in the very absence of more outwardly
+exciting prospects, have had the more "leisure of thought" to dwell in
+the ideal world which Bunyan has made as familiar to us as our own home.
+
+[Illustration: 8105]
+
+From Bedford to Olney the distance by rail is between ten and eleven
+miles; by "the sinuous Ouse" probably between thirty and forty.
+
+Few travellers, therefore, will care to ascend by the river banks, and
+the frequent shallows preclude the thought of a boating excursion, which
+otherwise would by its leisurely length be some preparation for our
+exchange of the associations of the seventeenth century for those of the
+eighteenth. One hundred and three years separated the birthday of Bunyan
+from that of Cowper.
+
+The interval marks the greatest advance that had ever been made in the
+history of English thought and freedom. But in the essentials of faith
+and teaching the two men were one; nor in some of their experiences were
+they very dissimilar. Both were sensitive, conscientious, and often in
+the midst of their holiest longings after God were most terror-stricken
+by thoughts of the wrath to come. Some pages of Bunyan's Autobiography
+may compare in their passionate anxiety with the annals of Cowper's
+despair. The great dreamer soon escaped from Doubting Castle to the
+Delectable Mountains; but for the poet, the dungeon bars remained
+unloosed until the final summons came to the everlasting hills. *
+
+     * "From the moment of Cowper's death, till the coffin was
+     closed," writes his friend and relative Mr. Johnson, "the
+     expression with which his countenance had settled was that
+     of calmness and composure, mingled, as it were, with _holy
+     surprise."--Southey's Life._
+
+The sensitiveness of Cowper to external influences was so great, as to
+raise the doubt whether other scenes and a different atmosphere might
+not have prevented many of his sorrows.
+
+[Illustration: 9106]
+
+On the death of his father, when the poet had reached the age of
+twenty-five, he touchingly and expressively tells us that it had never
+till then occurred to him "that a parson has no fee-simple in the house
+and glebe he occupies. There was," he says, "neither tree, nor gate, nor
+stile in all that country to which I did not feel a relation, and the
+house itself I preferred to a palace." To Huntingdon, where he first
+made acquaintance with the Ouse, and became an inmate with the Unwins,
+he clung very lovingly, although he does not rate the charms of the
+neighbourhood very highly. "My lot is cast in a country where we have
+neither woods nor commons nor pleasant prospects: all flat and insipid;
+in the summer adorned only winter covered with a flood." But it was at
+Olney that Cowper found such scenery as he could appreciate and love.
+"He does not," in the words of Sir James Mackintosh, "describe the
+most beautiful scenes in nature; he discovers what is most beautiful in
+ordinary scenes."
+
+[Illustration: 8106]
+
+In fact, Cowper saw very few beautiful scenes, but his poetical eye, and
+his moral heart, detected beauty in the sandy flats of Buckinghamshire."
+The walk, especially, from the quiet little town to the village of
+Weston Underwood, he has made classic among English scenes by the
+description in the first book of the _Task_.
+
+Leaving Olney, where, in truth, there is not much to detain us, save the
+poet's home--the same in outward aspect, at least, as during the twenty
+years spent by him within its walls,--and the summer-house in the garden
+where he sat and wrote, while Mrs. Unwin knitted, and Puss, Tiny, and
+Bess sported upon the grass--we may climb the little eminence above the
+river, and with an admiration like that of the poet ninety years ago,
+"dwell upon the scene." "Here is the "distant plough slow moving," and
+
+[Illustration: 0107]
+
+     "Here Ouse, slow winding through a level plain
+     Of spacious meads, with cattle sprinkled o'er,
+     Conducts the eye along his sinuous course Delighted.
+
+     There, fast rooted in their bank,
+     Stand, never overlooked, our favourite elms.
+     That screen the herdsman's solitary hut;
+     While far beyond, and overthwart the stream,
+     That, as with molten glass, inlays the vale,
+     The sloping land recedes into the clouds;
+     Displaying on its varied side the grace
+     Of hedgerow beauties numberless, square tower,
+     Tall spire, from which the sound of cheerful bells
+     Just undulates upon the listening ear;
+     Groves,  heathes and smoking villages remote."
+
+We are now at the upper corner of the Throckmorton Park. Pursuing our
+way, we listen to the music of "nature inanimate," of rippling brook or
+sighing wind, and of "nature animate," of "ten thousand warblers"
+that so soothed the poet's soul. A dip in the walk from where the elms
+enclose the upper park, and the chestnuts spread their shade, brings us
+into a grassy dell where by "a rustic bridge" we cross to the opposite
+slope, reascend to the "alcove," survey from the "speculative height"
+the pasture with its "fleecy tenants," the "sunburnt hayfield," the
+"woodland scene," the trees, each with its own hue, as so exquisitely
+depicted by the poet, while Ouse in the distance "glitters in the sun."
+At length the great avenue is reached.
+
+     "How airy and how light the graceful arch,
+     Yet awful as the consecrated roof
+     Re-echoing pious anthems! while beneath,
+     The chequered earth seems restless as a flood
+     Brushed by the wind.
+     So sportive is the light
+     Shot through the boughs, it dances as they dance,
+     Shadow and sunshine intermingling quick,
+     And darkening and enlightening, as the leaves
+     Play wanton, every moment, every spot.
+
+[Illustration: 9108]
+
+Such were the scenes dearest to Cowper, and dear to many still for
+his sake. T rue, they are not unlike others. A thousand scenes are
+as beautiful, and many an avenue up and down in English parks is of a
+nobler stateliness. Yet may this be visited with a special delight, for
+its own sake and for Cowper's. It is something to be able to look with
+a poet's eye, to have his thoughts and words so familiar to memory as
+to blend with the current of our own, as if spontaneously. We learn anew
+how to observe, and our emotions become almost unconsciously ennobled
+and refined.
+
+It is characteristic of Cowper's mind that scenery of a loftier and
+more exciting order had a disquieting effect upon him. Of his journey
+to Eastham, in Sussex, to visit his friend Hayley, he writes: "I indeed
+myself was a little daunted by the tremendous height of the Sussex
+hills, in comparison with which all that I had seen elsewhere are dwarfs.
+But I only was alarmed; Mrs. Unwin had no such sensations, but was
+always cheerful from the beginning of our expedition to the end of it."
+And again: "The charms of the place, uncommon as they are, have not in
+the least alienated my affections from Weston. The genius of that
+place, suits me better; it has an air of snug concealment, in which a
+disposition like mine feels peculiarly gratified, whereas here, I
+see from every window woods like forests, and hills like mountains--a
+wildness, in short, that rather increases my natural melancholy." A
+little while before, on Mr. Newton's return from the glories of Cheddar,
+Cowper writes: "I would that I could see some of the mountains which you
+have seen, especially because Dr. Johnson has pronounced that no man is
+qualified to be a poet who has never seen a mountain. But mountains I
+shall never see, unless perhaps in a dream, or unless there are such in
+heaven. Nor those," the poor, heart-stricken poet makes haste to add,
+"unless I receive twice as much mercy as ever yet was shown to any man."
+
+[Illustration: 0109]
+
+The last sentence prepares us for East Dereham, with its sad
+associations. But even from these we need not shrink. The homely Norfolk
+town brought to the troubled soul deliverance. Few, it may be, would
+turn aside to visit the place for its own sake; but the remembrance of
+the poet may well attract. The house in which he died has been replaced
+by a Congregational Church bearing his name--twin brother, so to speak,
+though with scarcely the same appropriateness, to Bunyan Chapel in
+Bedford. But it is in the church where he lies buried, and in the tomb
+raised to his memory, that the true interest lies. Never was death more
+an angel of mercy than to this darkly-shadowed spirit. We all know the
+words in which the most gifted of poetesses, at "Cowper's Grave," has
+set the thoughts of many Christian hearts to words that deserve to be
+immortal:
+
+     "Like a sick child that knoweth not his mother while she blesses,
+     And drops upon his burning brow the coolness of her kisses:
+     That turns his fevered eyes around--_My mother! where's my mother?_
+     As if such tender words and looks could come from any other!
+     The fever gone, with leaps of heart he sees her bending o'er him,
+     Her face all pale from watchful love, the unweary love she bore him!
+     Thus woke the poet from the dream his life's long fever gave him,
+     Beneath those deep pathetic eyes, which closed in death to save him!
+     Thus? oh, not thus! no type of earth could image that awaking,
+     Wherein he scarcely heard the chant of seraphs round him breaking,
+     Or felt the new immortal throb of soul from body parted,
+     But fell those eyes alone, and knew. My Saviour! not deserted!"
+
+[Illustration: 0110]
+
+[Illustration: 0112]
+
+
+
+
+THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE
+
+[Illustration: 0113]
+
+|THE traveller into Derbyshire, unaccustomed to the district, may not
+unnaturally inquire for "the Peak," which he has been taught to consider
+one of the chief English mountains, and the name of which has always
+suggested to him something like a pyramid of rock,--an English
+Matterhorn. He will be soon undeceived, and then may paradoxically
+declare the peculiarity of "the Peak District" to be that there is no
+Peak! The range so called is a bulky mass of millstone grit, rising
+irregularly from the limestone | formation which occupies the southern
+part of Derbyshire, and extending in long spurs, or arms, north and
+north-east into Yorkshire as far as Sheffield, and west and south into
+Cheshire and Staffordshire. The plateau is covered by wild moorland,
+clothed with fern, moss and heather, and broken up by deep hollows and
+glens, through which streamlets descend, each through its own belt of
+verdure, from the spongy morasses above, forming in their course many a
+minute but picturesque waterfall. The pedestrian who establishes himself
+in the little inn at Ashopton, will have the opportunity of exploring
+many a breezy height and romantic glen; while, if he has strength of
+limb and of lungs to make his way to Kinderscout, the highest point of
+all, he will breathe, at the elevation of not quite two thousand feet,
+as fresh and exhilarating an atmosphere as can be found anywhere in
+these islands; the busy smoky city of Manchester being at a distance,
+"as the crow flies," of little more than fifteen miles! It is no wonder
+that a select company of hard-worked men, who have lighted on this nook
+among the hills, having a taste for natural history, resort hither year
+after year, finding a refreshment in the repeated visit equal at least
+to that which their fellow-citizens enjoy, at greater cost, in the
+terraces of Buxton, or on the gigantic slope of Matlock Bank.
+
+Where the limestone emerges from under the mass of grit, the scenery
+altogether changes. For roughly-rounded, dark-coloured rocks, covered
+with ling and bracken, now appear narrow glens, bold escarped edges,
+cliffs splintered into pinnacles and pierced by wonderful caves
+traversed by hidden streams. Of these caves the "Peak Cavern" at
+Castleton is the largest, that of the "Blue John Mine" the most
+beautiful, from its veins of Derbyshire spar.
+
+The tourist, however, who confines himself to the Peak District proper,
+with its immediately outlying scenery, will have a very inadequate view
+of the charms of Derbyshire. He can scarcely do better than begin at the
+other extremity, ascending the Dove through its limestone valley as far
+as Buxton, thence taking rail to Chapel-en-le-Frith, expatiating over
+the Peak moorlands according to time and inclination, descending to the
+limestone region again at Castleton, and following the Derwent in its
+downward course to Ambergate, pausing in his way to visit Chatsworth and
+Haddon Hall, and to stay awhile at Matlock.
+
+Having thus planned our own journey, our starting-point was Ashbourne,
+a quiet, pretty little town at the extremity of a branch railway.
+There was not much in the town itself to detain us: we could only pay
+a hurried visit to the church, whose beautiful spire, 212 feet high,
+is sometimes called the Pride of the Peak. There are some striking
+monuments; and among them one with an inscription of almost unequalled
+mournfulness. It is to an only child, a daughter: "She was in form and
+intellect most exquisite. The unfortunate parents ventured their all on
+this frail bark, and the wreck was total." Never was plaint of sorrowing
+despair more touching. Let us hope, both that the parents' darling was
+a lamb in the Good Shepherd's fold, and that the sorrowing father and
+mother found at length that there can be no total wreck to those whose
+treasure is in heaven!
+
+A night's refreshing rest at the inn, where several nationalities
+oddly combine to make up one complex sign--the fierce Saracen, the
+thick-lipped negro, the English huntsman in his coat of Lincoln
+green!--and we sallied forth on a glorious day of early autumn to make
+our first acquaintance with Dovedale. Leaving the town at the extremity
+furthest from the railway station, we found ourselves on a well-kept,
+undulating road, skirted by fair pastures on either hand; the absence
+of cornfields being a very marked feature in the landscape. Turning into
+pleasant country lanes to the left, we soon reached the garden gate of
+a finely-situated rural inn, the "Peveril ut' the Peak," whence a short
+cut would have led us over the brow of the hill into Dovedale; but we
+were anxious to visit Ilam, and therefore made a detour as far as the
+"Izaak Walton," so well known to brothers of the "gentle craft." A
+little farther, and we were in the identical Happy Valley of Rasselas,
+where we found a charming little village, with schoolhouse and
+drinking-fountain, park and hall and church, and every cottage a
+picture.
+
+[Illustration: 0116]
+
+Two little rivers meet here, one of them the Manifold, the other and
+larger the Dove; and after a hurried view of the lovely vale, we lost no
+time in making our way to the entrance of the far-famed Dale. As most of
+our readers will know, the Dove divides Staffordshire from Derbyshire:
+we took the Derbyshire side, entering at a little gate on the river
+bank, and leisurely and with many a pause pursued a walk with which
+surely in England there are few to compare. The river is a shallow,
+sparkling stream, with many a pool dear to the angler, and hurrying
+down, babbling over pebbles, and broken in its course by many a tiny
+waterfall. On both sides rise tall limestone cliffs, splintered into
+countless fantastic forms--rocky walls, towers, and pinnacles, and in
+one place a natural archway near the summit, leading to the uplands
+beyond. And all up the sloping sides, and wherever root-hold could be
+obtained on pinnacle and crag, were clustered shrubs and trees of
+every shade of foliage, with the first touch of autumn to heighten the
+exquisite variety by tints which as yet suggested only afar off the
+thought of decay. The solitude of the scene served but to enhance its
+loveliness. For that road by the river side is no broad well-beaten
+track. No vehicle can pass, and even the pedestrian has sometimes to
+pick his way with difficulty. The stillness, on the day of our visit,
+was unbroken save for the murmur of the water, the twitter of the birds,
+and the rustling of the branches in the gentle breeze. The blue sky
+overhead, and the sunlight casting shadows upon the cliffs and the
+stream, completed the picture; and if the memory of Izaak Walton and
+Charles Cotton haunted their favourite stream, it so happened that we
+encountered none of their disciples.
+
+Many travellers leave the glen at Mill Dale, where a pleasant country
+lane to the right enables them to gain the high road between Ashbourne
+and Buxton. Time and strength permitting, however, we would strongly
+advise the tourist to make his way by the river banks to Hartington,
+passing through Beresford Dale, where at Pike Pool, represented in the
+frontispiece to this chapter, all the beauties of the Dove Valley are
+concentrated at one view. A limestone obelisk stands in the middle of
+the river, with a background of rich foliage, just touched, at the
+time of our visit, with autumnal hues, while the clear water eddied and
+sparkled around its base. This pool was the favourite resort of Walton
+and his friend Cotton. Many allusions to the spot will be found in _The
+Complete Angler_; and the comfortable inn at Hartington, reached from
+Beresford Dale by a walk for about a mile through pleasant meadows,
+bears Charles Cotton's name.
+
+At Hartington, the high road to Buxton may be taken; or, far better, the
+traveller may make his way to the famous watering-place by the plateau
+which divides the valley of the Dove from that of its tributary
+Manifold; he will then descend to the former valley near Longnor, and
+thence may climb to Axe Edge, a great outlying southerly branch or spur
+of the gritstone, from which the Dove has its rise. Parting with this
+lovely river at its very fountain-head, we find it difficult to believe
+that so much beauty and even grandeur can have been included in the
+twenty miles' course of a little English stream, and are ready to
+endorse the enthusiastic tribute of Cotton:
+
+     "The rapid Garonne and the winding Seine
+     Are both too mean.
+
+     Beloved Dove, with thee
+     To claim priority:
+
+     Nay, Thame and Isis, when conjoined, submit
+     And lay their trophies at thy silver feet."
+
+[Illustration: 0118]
+
+At Buxton, easily reached from Axe Edge, we found every variety of
+excursion and other enjoyments open to us, "for a consideration." The
+Derbyshire dales that may be easily explored from this point are very
+fine; and the whole of the Peak is open to the tourist. We could give,
+however, but a hurried glance to these manifold beauties, being bent
+upon descending the Derwent in some such leisurely fashion as that
+in which we had ascended the Dove. We had, indeed, the railway now to
+facilitate the latter half of our journey--no slight matter! and
+yet this had the effect of bringing multitudes of travellers like
+ourselves, so that the end of the Derbyshire tour was taken in company
+with a crowd. For a time, however, we were comparatively alone to
+Castleton, by Mam Tor, the wonderful "Shivering Mountain," where the
+sandstone and mountain limestone meet;--so called from the loose shale
+which is constantly descending its side, and which, in popular belief,
+does not diminish the mountain's bulk: thence down through the Winnyats
+or Windgates, a picturesque pass between lofty cliffs, taking its name
+from the winds which are said to rage almost ceaselessly through the
+narrow defile, although at the time of our visit the air was calm,
+while the lights and shadows of a perfect autumn day beautified the grey
+limestone crags.
+
+[Illustration: 0119]
+
+The ruins of Peveril's Castle, and the gloomy caves of Castleton, of
+course were visited. Then began the journey down the Derwent, embracing
+pretty Hather-sage, with its ancient camps, tumuli, and other remains
+whose origin can only be conjectured. Here is the traditionary grave of
+Robin Hood's gigantic comrade, "Little John." A "Gospel Stone" in this
+village, once used as a pulpit, perpetuates the memory of the open-air
+harvest and thanksgiving services of past generations; while in the
+village of Eyam, three or four miles lower down, the "Pulpit Rock," in
+a natural dell still called a "church," brings to mind the heroism of a
+devoted pastor, who during the plague of 1665, when it would have been
+dangerous to meet in any building, daily assembled his parishioners in
+this place to pray with them, to teach and to console.
+
+[Illustration: 9120]
+
+The traveller will not regret the slight detour from the road by the
+river to visit this most interesting spot; and he may return to the
+Derwent by Middleton Dale, another magnificent pass through limestone
+cliffs. Hence he will soon reach Edensor, the "model village," and
+Chatsworth, "the Palace of the Peak." The splendours of the park and
+mansion are so familiar to thousands,--to whom in fact "the Peak
+of Derbyshire" is a name suggestive only of Chatsworth and Haddon
+Hall,--that we need attempt no description here. The visitor may follow
+his own bent, whether to wander in the stately park, or to join the
+hourly procession along the silken-roped avenue through the corridors
+and apartments of the Hall, with due admiration of the pictures,
+the statuary and the wonderful carving; thence passing out into the
+conservatory and the gardens, where nature has done so much, and art so
+much more. Truly days at Chatsworth are among the bright days of life,
+especially if there be time and opportunity also to visit Haddon Hall,
+that almost unique specimen of an old baronial English home, empty and
+dismantled now, but carefully preserved and beautiful for situation,
+upon the Derbyshire Wye, which here comes down from its own limestone
+glens and dales through the pretty town of Bakewell, to unite at Rowsley
+with the Derwent.
+
+At this junction, too, the traveller comes upon the railway, and will be
+tempted to pass only too rapidly by the beauties of the Derwent Valley
+between Rowsley and Ambergate. We can but assure him that he will lose
+much by so doing; that Darley Dale and Moor are very beautiful, and
+that the tourist who rushes on to Matlock Bath without staying to climb
+Matlock Bank does an injustice to Derbyshire scenery: while if he be
+in pursuit of health, he can find no better resting-place than at the
+renowned | hydropathic establishments which occupy the heights.
+
+[Illustration: 0121]
+
+Still, most who are in search of the picturesque will prefer to seek it
+at Matlock Bath, where indeed they will not be left to discover it
+for themselves. In this famous spot the beauties of nature are all
+catalogued, ticketed, and forced on the attention by signboards and
+handbills. Here is the path to "the beautiful scenery" (admission so
+much); there "the Romantic Rocks" (again a fee); there the ferry to "the
+Lovers' Walk," a charming path by the river-side, overshadowed by trees,
+and so on.
+
+[Illustration: 0123]
+
+Petrifying wells offer their rival attractions, and caves in the
+limestone are repeatedly illuminated during the season for the delight
+of excursionists. The market for fossils, spar, photographs, ferns, and
+all the wonderful things that nobody buys except at watering-places, is
+brisk and incessant. But when we have added to all this that the heights
+are truly magnificent, the woods and river very charming, and the
+arrangements of the hotels most homelike and satisfactory, it will not
+be wondered at that the balance of pleasure remained largely in favour
+of Matlock.
+
+[Illustration: 0124]
+
+It would be certainly pleasanter to discover for one's self that here
+is "the Switzerland of England," than to have the fact thrust upon
+attention by placards at every turn; but perhaps there are those to
+whom the information thus afforded is welcome, while the enormous
+highly-coloured pictures of valley, dale and crag which adorn every
+railway station on the line, no doubt perform their part in attracting
+and instructing visitors. They need certainly be at no loss to occupy
+their time to advantage, whether their stay be longer or shorter.
+
+[Illustration: 0125]
+
+Everything is made easy for them. To all the noblest points of view,
+easy paths have been constructed: the fatigue of mountain-climbing is
+reduced to a minimum; and certainly the landscapes disclosed even from a
+moderate elevation by the judicious pruning and removal of intercepting
+foliage, are such as to repay most richly the moderate effort requisite
+for the ascent. Lord Byron writes, that there are views in Derbyshire
+"as noble as in Greece or Switzerland." He was probably thinking of the
+prospect from Masson, from which the whole valley, with its boundary of
+tors, or limestone cliffs, is outspread before the observer, while the
+river sparkles beneath, reflecting masses of foliage, with depths of
+heavenly blue between; and beyond the scarred and broken ramparts of the
+glen, purple moorlands stretch away to the high and curving line of the
+horizon.
+
+The traveller southward, who has accompanied us thus far, if yet unsated
+with beauty, will be wise in taking the road from Matlock to Cromford,
+the next station, instead of proceeding by railway. The short walk
+or drive between the limestone cliffs, although the great majority
+of passengers pass it by unnoticed, is really, for its length, as
+magnificent as almost any of the dales in the higher part of the
+country. At Cromford there is the stately mansion of the Arkwrights,
+and a little beyond, on the other side of the railway, is Lea Hurst,
+the home of Miss Florence Nightingale, a name that will be gratefully
+enshrined in the memories of the English people, even when war shall
+be no more. From this spot the valley gradually broadens, still
+richly-wooded up the heights, with fair meadows on the river banks. And
+so we reach Ambergate, where we re-enter the busy world, bearing with us
+ineffaceable memories of the beauties and the wonders of "the Peak."
+
+[Illustration: 0126]
+
+[Illustration: 0128]
+
+
+
+
+WESTWARD HO!
+
+[Illustration: 0129]
+
+Almost every place of popular resort has its "season," when its charms
+are supposed to be at their highest, and the annual migration of
+visitors sets in. The period is not always determined by climate or
+calendar; and such is the caprice of fashion, that many a lovely spot
+is left well-nigh solitary during the weeks of its full perfection,
+the crowd beginning to gather when the beauties of the place are on the
+wane. Tastes will undoubtedly differ as to the most favourable time to
+visit one or another beautiful scene; but none, we should imagine,
+will dispute our opinion that the best season for travel in the west of
+England is in the early spring. We leave the north, with patches of snow
+yet on the hills, and the first leaflets struggling in vain to
+unfold themselves on the blackened branches; or, if we hail from the
+metropolis, we gladly turn our backs on wind-swept streets and bleak
+suburban roads, to find ourselves in two or three hours speeding beneath
+soft sunshine, between far-extending orchards, in all the loveliness of
+their delicate bloom, while the grass is of a richer tint, the blue sky,
+dappled with fleecy clouds, of a more exquisite purity, and instead
+of the slowly-relaxing grasp of winter, the promise of summer already
+thrills the air. "The flowers appear on the earth; the time of the
+singing of birds is come, and the voice of the turtle is heard in our
+land."
+
+But whither shall we direct our steps? It is the perfection of comfort
+in travelling to have time at command. We need be in no haste to leave
+the apple-blossomy valleys of Somersetshire, even for the woods and
+cliffs of Devon; and if the tourist would visit a spot which, in its
+own way, is unique in England, let him turn aside, as we did, soon after
+leaving Bristol, to a rift in the Mendip Hills, and make his way through
+the pass between the Cheddar Cliffs. A more majestic scene it would
+be difficult to find. For actual magnitude is only one element of
+sublimity. The biggest mountain is not always the grandest, just as the
+finest landscape is not always that which embraces the greatest number
+of square miles. The Himalayas are said to be far less imposing than the
+Alps. The width of the valleys, the more gradual slope of the mountains,
+and the greater distance from the eye, detract from their apparent
+height as compared with Mont Blanc or the Matterhorn. This little gorge
+of the Mendips affords a striking illustration of the same kind.
+The cliffs are less than five hundred feet high; yet under certain
+conditions of atmosphere we have had as deep a sense of sublimity, and
+under others as keen a sense of beauty here, as in districts where the
+altitude is to be reckoned by thousands of feet instead of hundreds.
+
+The approach to Cheddar is by a short railway from Yatton, on the
+Bristol and Exeter line, or by the road, which winds through a rich
+valley. The hills on either side are green to their very summits, from
+which fine views may be gained of the Bristol Channel, near Clevedon and
+Weston. One of them, Dolbury, is crowned by a remarkably fine British
+camp, enclosing within its ample area a Roman stronghold. Wrington, the
+birthplace of John Locke, is passed. Glastonbury Tor comes into view,
+and remains a conspicuous object for the rest of the journey.
+
+Immediately behind the village of Cheddar rises the bare grey ridge
+of the Mendips. Cut sheer through it from summit to base is an
+extraordinary cleft. The road which winds along the bottom of the
+ravine is in some places only wide enough to allow two vehicles to pass
+abreast. On the right-hand side a perpendicular wall of rock rises to
+the height of about four hundred and thirty feet. Its surface is
+broken by enormous buttresses, like the towers of some Titanic castle,
+surmounted by spires and pinnacles, whose light airy grace contrasts
+finely with the massive walls on which they rest. Down the face of the
+cliff long festoons of ivy and creeping plants wave to and fro. The
+scanty soil on the ledges and in the fissures is bright with wild
+flowers. The yew and mountain ash, dwarfed into mere shrubs, seem to
+cling with a precarious foothold to the face of the rock. Far above us
+innumerable jackdaws and crows chatter noisily, and hawks, with which
+the district abounds, soar across the narrow strip of sky overhead. The
+opposite side of the ravine is less precipitous, though even here it is
+steep enough to task the energies of the climber, and grand masses of
+rock stand out from the hill-side. Conspicuous amongst these is the Lion
+Rock, so called from its extraordinary resemblance to a crouching lion.
+This district abounds in caverns, many of them of great extent and
+beauty, which will well repay a visit. Local tradition affirms that one
+reaches as far as Wookey Hole, a distance of ten miles.
+
+[Illustration: 8131]
+
+The devoted and self-denying efforts of Mrs. Hannah More must not be
+forgotten in connection with Cheddar. When residing at Barley Wood, a
+few miles distant, about the end of the last century, she was dismayed
+at the ignorance and immorality of the villagers, who were "living like
+the brutes that perish," and indulging in gross vices. Scarcely even
+in the heart of Africa could more complete heathenism be found. As yet
+Sunday Schools, Tract Societies and all the means of usefulness, now so
+common, had no existence.
+
+Her endeavours for the amelioration of the people were as experiments to
+be tried single-handed, under the most unpromising circumstances, and in
+the face of the most violent hostility and abuse.
+
+Yet she did not shrink from the arduous duty which lay before her. A
+house was taken, a pious teacher appointed, and the school was opened.
+Gradually enemies were conciliated, as the happy effects of Christian
+teaching became apparent. Many of the children learned to know and love
+the Saviour. The influence spread from the children to the parents,
+and by the blessing of God the experiment, which at first seemed so
+hopeless, was crowned with a success beyond her utmost expectations. It
+was in connection with her evangelistic work at Cheddar that she wrote
+her first tract, _Village Politics, by Will Chip_. This led to the
+preparation of her _Cheap Repository Tracts_, to be followed in due time
+by the establishment of the Religious Tract Society, whose operations
+now extend throughout the whole world. On the completion of the series,
+Mrs. More wrote in her journal: "Bless the Lord, O my soul, that I have
+been spared to accomplish this work. Do Thou, O Lord, bless and prosper
+it to the good of many; and if it do good, may I give Thee the glory,
+and take to myself the shame of its defects. I have devoted three years
+to the work. Two millions of these tracts have been disposed of during
+the first year! God works by weak instruments, to show that the glory is
+all His own."
+
+From Cheddar the traveller may either continue his journey by way of
+Wells, or may return at once to the main line, passing near the coast
+of the Bristol Channel, with a wide alluvial plain at his left, once
+covered by an arm of the sea, with islands, as Brent Tor and others,
+emerging from the waters, and reaching as far as Glastonbury or
+Avalon--"apple-island," famed in legend and song.
+
+[Illustration: 0132]
+
+A little further, and the marshy plain of the Parret stretches away in
+one direction to Sedgemoor, scene of the "last battle fought on English
+ground," * that in which the ill-fated Duke of Monmouth suffered
+irretrievable defeat, and in another, to Athelney, the place of King
+Alfred's retreat and noble rally against the Danes. In memory of the
+stories that charmed our childhood, we could do no otherwise than take
+the branch line at Durston, whence a few minutes' run places us in the
+marshy unpicturesque scene so memorable in English story. The whole
+neighbourhood was evidently once covered with woods and morasses; good
+drainage has made it fertile now, but it must be confessed that it must
+depend for all its attractiveness on its associations. On or near the
+traditional site of the "neatherd's cottage," an unpretending stone
+pillar with a lengthy inscription preserves the memory of Alfred's
+sojourn.
+
+     * Macaulay. The date was July 6, 1685
+
+Resuming the journey westward, we soon discern the towers of the Taunton
+churches, and may find a welcome night's rest in this bright and pretty
+town; or turning again off the main line, may pass north west, by a
+route full of interest, to the Ouantock Hills. On our way we pass Combe
+Florey, famous as the residence for a time of Sydney Smith, and as the
+scene of some of the most characteristic stories of his life. But we
+must not linger in the valley: at every point the wooded hill-slopes
+tempt us to climb upwards among shady groves of beech, over turf thick
+with primroses and bluebells, then out upon the furzy heights. It hardly
+matters which path we take, whether up Cothelstone, whence the view
+is perhaps most magnificent, or Will's Neck, highest point of all, or
+Hurley Beacon. From hilltop to hill-top we make our way, descending
+into mossy glens, where the hill stream trickles down in miniature
+waterfalls, or striking down some deep wooded combe, where the houses
+of a village nestle among the trees, and the spacious church tells of
+a time when the inhabitants far out-numbered the present scanty
+population. In the valley below, to the north-east, we descry the
+village of Nether Stowey, for some time the residence of Coleridge,
+and further to the north, at the foot of one of the loveliest of wooded
+combes, is Alfoxton, which was at the same time the home of Wordsworth.
+The two friends have told us how they used to meet and discuss high
+themes in many a charming stroll, their neighbours much wondering the
+while, and the government of the day suspecting their advanced
+opinions. The end was that they had to leave, not before they had made
+imperishable record of the beauties of the place. Thus Wordsworth writes
+to Coleridge, in the Prelude:
+
+                         "Beloved Friend!
+     When looking back, thou seest in clearer view
+     Than any liveliest sights of yesterday
+     That summer, under whose indulgent skies
+     Upon smooth Quantock's airy ridge we roved
+     Unchecked, or loitered 'mid her sylvan combes:
+     Thou in bewitching words, with happy hearts
+     Midst chaint the vision of that ancient man;
+     The bright-eyed Mariner, and rueful woes
+     Didst utter of the Lady Christabel."
+
+Coleridge, in a note to the _Ancient Mariner_, says, "It was on a
+delightful walk from Nether Stowey to Dulverton, with Wordsworth and his
+sister, in the autumn of 1797, that this poem was planned and in part
+composed."
+
+The great hilly range to the west, in full view across the valley from
+the Ouantocks, is an outlying rampart of Exmoor, and the brown peak in
+the distance is Dunkery Beacon, the highest point in Somersetshire. Our
+road leads between these heights and the sea, by Dunster, with its great
+ivied castle overhanging the quaint feudal-looking little town, and
+Minehead, a cheerful unpretending watering-place, to Porlock, where
+the ascent of what the country people call a "terrable long hill," by a
+zigzag moorland road, leads to a height from which, on looking back, we
+have a prospect of surpassing grandeur. Let us gaze our fill: if the day
+be fine, and the atmosphere clear, we shall see nothing nobler in the
+west of England. To the south the huge masses of Dunkery, brown with
+heather, rise from a foreground of woods and glens; below, to the east,
+lies a fair valley, surrounded with hills of every picturesque variety
+in form, prominent among which is the rugged side of Bossington Beacon.
+Towards the south-east, heights on heights arise, some richly wooded,
+others majestic in their bareness; while to the north and north-east
+stretches the Bristol Channel, with the Welsh mountains dimly seen
+beyond.
+
+[Illustration: 0134]
+
+Then we go southwards over a reach of wild moorland, and come upon the
+indescribable loveliness of Lynmouth and Lynton. Far beyond railways,
+accessible only by long walking or driving over hilly roads, or by small
+boats from steamers on their way up and down the Channel, this fair spot
+can never attract the crowd; but those who have wandered by its streams,
+or climbed its heights, are singularly unanimous in pronouncing it the
+most charming spot in England. Lynmouth is in the valley, on the shore;
+Lynton on the height. The name is derived from the _lyns_, or torrents,
+which descend separately, each through a wooded gorge or combe, until
+they meet beside the sea. Great mossy rocks everywhere break the course
+of the torrents, and the luxuriant foliage which lines the banks,
+the ferns and flowers, with the overhanging trees, combine to make a
+succession of perfect pictures.
+
+[Illustration: 0135]
+
+The traveller will, of course, go up Lyndale, the valley of the East
+Lyn, as far as Watersmeet, and will not omit to explore the quieter,
+more luxuriant, though less magnificent West Lyn. He will climb to
+the summit of Lyn Cliff, and will survey at ease the prospect from the
+summer-house; and will not omit the extraordinary Valley of the Rocks,
+reached by a grand walk along the face of the cliff, which overhangs the
+sea to the west of Lynton. At a break in this path he suddenly comes
+to a gigantic gateway, formed of two rocky pyramids, and enters upon
+a scene which, to his first view, appears strewn with the fragments of
+some earlier world. "Imagine," says Southey, "a narrow vale between two
+ridges of hills, somewhat steep: the southern hill turfed; the vale,
+which runs from east to west, covered with huge stones, and fragments of
+stone among the fern that fills it; the northern ridge completely bare,
+excoriated of all turf and all soil, the very bones and skeleton of the
+earth; rock reclining upon rock, stone piled upon stone, a huge terrific
+mass. A palace of the pre-historic kings, a city of the Anakim, must
+have appeared so shapeless, and yet so like the ruins of what had been
+shaped after the waters of the flood subsided.... I never felt the
+sublimity of solitude before."
+
+The drive from Lynton to Barnstaple, though not long, being, we believe,
+somewhat under twenty miles, brought to us a crowd of half-forgotten
+associations of early days when coach-travelling was the chief means of
+locomotion. The coach itself was of the old build, spick and span in its
+neatness; the coachman was of old-fashioned ways; the four sleek horses
+were no mere omnibus hacks, but as they warmed to their work up and down
+hill, showed a mettle akin to that of roadsters in days long ago.
+Or perhaps we had only imagined until now that the old breed had
+deteriorated! The villages on the way had no sign of "Station" or
+"Station Hotel" about them; children ran from the cottage doors to shout
+after the coach, or to bring primroses and violets to the passengers;
+rustics gathered for a chat where the coachman pulled up, as he did
+tolerably often, for time seemed but a small object in that old-world
+region. And all around was outspread a landscape of rich, ever-changing
+loveliness, ruddy in soil, rich in verdure, as at one time we descended
+into lanes half-embowered by the already luxuriant hedgerows, and at
+another emerged on open moorland swept by soft breezes from the sea, and
+engirdled by the hazy forms of distant hills. At length the estuary of
+the Taw came into view, the houses of Barnstaple appeared, the coach
+drove into the station yard, and we were in the world again.
+
+Another route might have been taken from Lynton to Ilfracombe, by way of
+Combe Martin, with its fine and rocky bay; but we were anxious to
+reach less crowded and familiar spots than the famous North Devon
+watering-place, though this also is in its way delightful. We must,
+however, see one or two further points on the coast before striking
+inland again; and accordingly, took up our night's quarters at Bideford,
+famed for the length of its bridge, and the steepness of its streets.
+Emerging early in the morning from the highest part of the town, we
+made our way to Westward Ho! that magnificent possibility, whose stately
+mansions and hotels, broad quays and pier, surrounded by vessels from
+all parts, with its broad level plain by the sea and noble background
+of wooded hills, had so often captivated us--in railway-station
+waiting-rooms. We found it all there, except the mansions, the quays,
+and the ships! The bay is glorious, the plain upon the shore stretches
+far and wide,--to the satisfaction of golfers, for whose favourite game
+no spot can be better adapted: there is a great pebble-ridge, a natural
+breakwater two miles long and fifty feet wide, composed of rounded
+pebbles of carboniferous "grit;" the background of wooded cliffs is
+magnificent, while a lonely pier, one commodious hotel, a bath-house on
+a splendid scale, some rows of villas, lodging-houses, and one or two
+educational establishments give promise of prosperity to come. A great
+sanatorium or hydropathic institution, to be called "the Kingsley,"
+after the gifted man who has set the stamp of his genius on this whole
+neighbourhood, has been projected; and certainly for purposes of health
+as well as enjoyment, no place could be better adapted than the woodland
+terraces overlooking this most beautiful bay.
+
+The mention of Charles Kingsley reminds us of Clovelly, his early home,
+and to the last his favourite spot. Early in the morning we started for
+this unique Devonshire village, with high expectations, and under
+the auspices of the British Government, as our chosen vehicle was the
+"mail-cart," in the shape of a very comfortable waggonette filled
+with pleasant chatty passengers, all the livelier, perhaps, from the
+good-humoured sense of merit which early-rising is apt to engender. The
+road was not particularly striking, save for glimpses of the channel
+seen through the light morning haze: the breath of spring was in the
+air, and when we alighted at the "Hobby" gate, we were fully prepared
+for the three miles' walk by which our breakfast was yet to be earned.
+The path, in reality a broad, well-kept drive, is carried along the face
+of the cliff, which shelves gradually, covered thickly with trees and
+brushwood, to the shore, while the bank towers above, soft with moss and
+beautiful with flowers. The cliff curves in and out irregularly; broken
+in one or two places by deep glens, over which the road is carried by
+rustic bridges. Long shadows lay, that morning, across the path; above
+and below, the tender budding foliage clothed the dark branches of oak
+and elm, hazel and beech, in every variety of shade; the air was musical
+with birds, and, stirred by the gentle morning breeze and the whisper of
+the boughs, blended with the distant murmur of the sea. It was a walk to
+be remembered. At length, at a turning of the road, Clovelly came
+into sight, about a mile distant--a seemingly confused heap of houses
+emerging on all sides from thick woodland, and slanting steeply down
+to a stone pier jutting out into a little bay. At the end of the Hobby
+walk, the summit of the village was gained, and we were soon descending
+its curious steep street, not without longing looks at the quaint little
+lodging-houses, all untenanted as yet.
+
+[Illustration: 8139]
+
+Clovelly is a place to linger in, and to dream! The practical need of
+the hour, however, was breakfast, during the preparation of which meal
+it was pleasant to sit in the hotel balcony, and look out upon the bay,
+with its lines of light and shadow, and the long outline of Lundy Island
+showing clear in the distance; for now the morning mists had lifted,
+and the brightness of spring was over sea and land. A walk of marvellous
+beauty followed, into the park of Clovelly Court, over springy turf,
+through woodlands budding into leaf, and over a stretch of rugged
+wilderness, preserved with some art in its primitive simplicity. Thence,
+by a winding pathway, or over a steep grassy slope, the highest
+point may be reached, a noble cliff, called from some old local story
+Gallantry Bower. A little summer-house, nestling in the cliff-side,
+commands a grand range of cliffs, with their curved, contorted strata,
+peculiar to the carboniferous formation, while many a jutting or broken
+crag gives a castellated aspect to this magnificent rampart of the
+coast. Inland, the scene is full of beauties of hill and glen, in almost
+measureless variety; but we could not linger to survey them all; for
+our way lay in another direction, before we could feast again on the
+beauties of cliff and sea.
+
+Hartland Point, a little farther on, is the true "Land's End" of
+Devonshire, the terminating promontory of Bideford Bay, a tongue of
+grassy land, not more than thirty or forty feet wide, at the summit of a
+tremendous precipice on either side, pointing, it is said, to a similar
+projection on the opposite Welsh coast, like twin pillars of Hercules, *
+guarding the estuary of the Severn.
+
+     * Ptolemy, the geographer (2nd cent.), is supposed to have
+     referred to Hartland Point, as the "Promontory of Hercules."
+
+[Illustration: 9140]
+
+It would now have been easy to visit Bude Haven, and so to travel south
+and south-west along the cliffs which fringe the Atlantic, but our
+present plan was to strike inland to Dartmoor. The little town of
+Oke-hampton was therefore our first destination, reached by a somewhat
+dull route,--whichever road may be taken,--but, when gained, most
+interesting. The town lies in a valley, watered by a swift romantic
+river which, at one point, sweeping round a wooded hill, crowned by the
+ruins of an old castle, forms as lovely a picture as anything of the
+kind in England. Kingsley abuses Okehampton, unjustly, we think: but,
+whatever may be thought of the town and its immediate neighbourhood,
+there can be no doubt as to the wonderful interest of the excursions
+that may be taken from it as a centre. From the castle hill, as from
+other points in the town, the chief object that arrests the eye is the
+vast brown sweep of rising ground, suggestive of mysterious desolation
+beyond, which we know to be the boundary of Dartmoor. Ascending, we find
+ourselves at first on pleasant, breezy, though treeless heights, but
+keep to beaten paths, and pursue our onward journey. At length the
+moorland track over which we have passed seems to rise behind us and
+shut out the world; and as we gaze around, we feel that all pictures
+which we had framed to ourselves of wild deserted solitudes are
+surpassed. "Like the fragments of an earlier world," is the comparison
+that naturally rises to the lips. We are not unfamiliar with moorland
+scenery--with Rombald's Moor, for instance, in Yorkshire, beautiful in
+its variety of colour, from the tender green and softening greys and
+browns of spring, to the purple heathery splendours of the autumn,
+while the song of lark and linnet overhead, or the plaintive cry of
+the lapwing, gives animation to the scene. But at Dartmoor is a new
+experience of desolation. The stupendous mass of granite which here
+crops up from hidden depths is covered on its broken surface with thick
+peat, in whose depths the blackened trunks of trees occasionally give
+evidence of a time when the range was clothed with wood, but which,
+for the most part, bears only coarse grass and moss, with heather and
+whortleberry in the most favoured localities. Broad spaces are covered
+by morass and bog, dangerous to the unaccustomed pedestrian. Scanty
+streams break from the heights, and hurry in all directions down to
+the valley, swollen to wild fury after a storm. The "tor," or
+shapeless masses of rock, which stand out from the peaty surface in
+all directions, are but, as it were, the jagged projections from the
+interior rock-skeleton. Some may be readily ascended; Yes Tor (probably
+East Tor, pronounced Devonshire fashion) being the highest, and on many
+accounts the best worth climbing.
+
+[Illustration: 0141]
+
+The prospect of the moor from this or any other commanding point can
+only be described as awful in its grim, monotonous, silent desolation,
+the only beauty being that of swelling distant outline, or frequently
+that of colour, when the atmosphere is clear between the frequent
+showers, and the rays of the sun light up the heather and the moss,
+diversifying the dark shadows of the tors with the various hues of
+green, with the ruddy gleam of withered fern, and rushes in many a
+morass. But let not the traveller be too hopeful of sunshine and clear
+air! For as the local rhyme says:
+
+     The south wind blows, and brings wet weather;
+     The north gives wet and cold together;
+     The west wind comes brimful of rain,
+     The east wind drives it back again.
+     Then, if the sun in red should set,
+     We know the morrow must be wet;
+     And if the eve is clad in grey,
+     The next is sure a rainy day."
+
+[Illustration: 9142]
+
+Still, the slopes by which Dartmoor descends to the lowlands around are
+beautiful. In fact, the mighty granite mass is girdled by an investiture
+of fair glens and smiling villages, which make the circuit of it a
+succession of some of the brightest pictures that England can anywhere
+present in the same compass. The drive from Oke-hampton to Chagford,
+or to Moreton Hampstead, for instance, is of wonderful charm. Near the
+former village, the river Teign descends over rocks and boulders in a
+richly-wooded glen, as beautiful in parts as Dovedale.
+
+[Illustration: 8142]
+
+The rivers, indeed, which come down on all sides from Dartmoor, are the
+glory of Devonshire. Beside the Teign, there is the Dart itself, one
+head-stream of which rises near the well-known prison at Prince Town,
+with the Taw, Tavy, Avon, Erme, Plym, and streamlets innumerable.
+
+Travellers in favourable weather will do well to cross Dartmoor by the
+coach-road, from Moreton Hampstead to Tavistock, past the big, gloomy
+prison, appropriately placed in the very wildest and most desolate
+part of the whole region. Or, as we did, making Okehampton their
+headquarters, they may pass on by train by way of Lidford. The railway
+is carried in places at a great height, on the open edge of the moor,
+which it curiously fringes: it seems essentially a holiday line; there
+is no hurry, and the traveller, as he passes along, may leisurely survey
+the frowning heights above, or the fair valley below, according to his
+choice.
+
+[Illustration: 0143]
+
+Lidford station being reached, we left the train, and found ourselves
+in an unfinished-looking spot, with little outwardly to attract. Having,
+however, received directions how to proceed, we crossed a farmyard,
+where some cattle with stupendous horns looked and lowed at us in a
+manner trying to the nerves, then, emerging near a river bank, made
+our way for less than a mile up the stream, on a grassy path beneath
+overhanging woods, when at a sudden turn up a glen that opened to the
+main stream, the gleam of waters caught the eye, at the first glance
+like some tall spirit of the dell, glimmering through the foliage that
+enshrouded it. A more beautiful cascade is hardly to be seen in England,
+when Dartmoor has had abundance of rain. At other times they say a
+friendly miller can turn on a supply of water, else thriftily economised
+for his needs. Happily, no such artificial arrangement was needful on
+the occasion of our visit; and we remained long admiring the lovely
+picture.
+
+[Illustration: 0144]
+
+Retracing our steps, we climbed to the village, crossing on our way a
+commonplace-looking bridge, of a single arch, at a clip in the road,
+with the sound of a great rush of waters beneath.
+
+[Illustration: 0145]
+
+We looked over the parapet, but could discern nothing, owing to the mass
+of thick shrubs and foliage which overarched the stream, and made
+our way uphill to the village. Here the traveller is directed to the
+churchyard, to see a curious epitaph on a watchmaker, in which some
+rather obvious allusions to human life are borrowed from his craft.
+Students of mortuary inscriptions are thankful often for small mercies
+in the way of wit, and are not always careful to note where the humour
+degenerates into irreverence or worse. We were more sadly interested in
+the contrast, which we have also observed in other churchyards, between
+the old style and the new; the simple piety of our fathers and the
+mimic popery of some of their descendants. Both are very observable at
+Lidford. One ancient tombstone bore some pathetic lines, beginning,--
+
+     "Praise to our God, whose faithful love
+     Hath called another to His rest."
+
+But the modern fashion was evidently to put up a flimsy cross, with the
+letters R.I.P., _Requiescat in pace!_ a prayer for the dead, who are
+beyond our reach, safe in the endless rest, or in a darkness whither
+our prayers cannot avail them. We left the scene with the feeling deeper
+than ever, that there are growing up errors among us, against which it
+becomes all true men earnestly to strive.
+
+[Illustration: 9146]
+
+Meanwhile we had learned something about the bridge that we had crossed
+just before, and the rush of waters below. Returning, therefore, and
+making application at the house close by, we were conducted down into a
+rocky gorge, through which rushes the Lid, one of the Dartmoor streams,
+a tributary of the Tamar. The cliffs, irregular and castellated, are
+seventy feet high; a narrow, dangerous path is carried along one side
+of the rock, and the wild foaming waters in the dark, narrow glen carry
+back the traveller's mind to Switzerland. Certainly there is nothing
+like "Lidford Bridge" elsewhere in England; the Strid in Bolton Woods
+may equal it in its rush of waters; but the rocks there lie in the open
+woodland, and the stream is but a few feet below their summit: here the
+beetling precipices almost meet above, as at the "Devil's Bridge" in
+Cardiganshire, and there are weird stories at both places of travellers
+on horseback who have leaped the bridge unconsciously by night, when
+broken down, only discovering their peril and their escape on the
+following day.
+
+From Lidford to Tavistock was an easy ride, and we found this pleasant
+town a place every way suitable for a Lord's Day rest. Outwardly, the
+great charm of the locality is the meeting-place between the wildness of
+Dartmoor and the rich cultivation of the valley; while some walks by the
+river are of a tranquil and serene beauty, only as it seems to us to
+be found in England, and to be enjoyed on the day of rest. Perhaps our
+feeling is in a great measure due to association; but if so, we have to
+thank association for one of the happiest evenings we have known. Next
+morning we explored the remains of the Abbey--now put to heterogeneous
+uses--a public library, a Unitarian Chapel, and a hotel, with sundry
+ruins in the vicarage garden; then a short railway journey carried us
+across the Cornish border to Launceston, where a short climb through
+pretty pleasure grounds to the keep of the old castle on the knoll that
+rises steeply from the town gave us a fine view, from the bulky range of
+Dartmoor on the one side, to the craggy outline of the Cornish hills on
+the other.
+
+[Illustration: 0147]
+
+Our object, however, was now to reach the coast; and, as a good test of
+our pedestrian powers, already pretty well exercised in the course
+of this charming: tour, we determined to walk over the hills in the
+direction of the sea, knowing that even if our powers failed, some
+passing "van" would take us up, and convey us in a primitive fashion to
+the nearest town. But we persevered, and, when we had accomplished nine
+or ten miles of an undulating, monotonous road, were rewarded by the
+first glimpse of the Atlantic, with the cloud shadows lying afar upon
+the untroubled sapphire; while, though no breeze stirred, there was
+a sense of freshness in the air that encouraged us to press on to our
+journey's end. At length we reached it, in a village to name which is
+to raise in the minds of those who have visited it memories most
+delightful; while to the multitude it is and will probably remain
+unknown. We will not call it Trelyon, after the fashion of a popular
+novelist, who has given us some of the most charming word-pictures of
+this scenery which our literature contains. Nor is it unkindness to
+the happy few who already know Boscastle, and one delightful homelike
+retreat from the world which it contains, to raise the veil a little
+farther. That it is several miles distant from a railway station, that
+there is no public conveyance to it but the "vans" already referred
+to, that gas is a luxury unknown, are points in its favour to those who
+think, like the Frenchman:
+
+     "How sweet, how passing sweet, is solitude!
+     But give me just one friend in my retreat,
+     To whom to whisper, 'Solitude is sweet.'"
+
+For society may be found at Boscastle--the society of the chosen few.
+The place itself is unique. Through tiny meadows a streamlet flows
+swiftly towards the sea, entering a fissure where the hills, swelling
+upward on either hand, rise to towering cliffs, inclosing a harbour, up
+which the tide surges restlessly to meet the stream, then as restlessly
+subsides. Behind the cliff on the western side, up a broad cleft from
+the brink of the rivulet to the hill-summit, runs the village, inhabited
+by a hardy, independent, self-contained race of Cornish people, proud
+of their scenery, as well they may be. The slate cliffs, in endless
+diversity of craggy pointed form, skirt the sea, which ever chafes
+against their bases; here and there a little inlet far below shows
+a surface of smooth white sand, inaccessible from the land, or to be
+reached only by the surefooted climber, familiar with every step. Broad
+grassy slopes crown the cliffs, and every turn discloses magnificent
+views of sea and shore. Our walk along the cliffs to Tintagel, starting
+from Willapark Point, the headland that rises so grandly to the west of
+the little bay, was of an interest which perhaps no other coast scene
+in England can fully match. First, Forrabury Church was passed, with
+its silent tower; the bells once destined for it lying, according
+to tradition, close by, at the bottom of the Atlantic. The ship that
+conveyed them was nearing the port. "Thank God for a fair voyage," said
+the pilot. "Nay," replied the captain, "thank the ship, the canvas, and
+the fair wind." It was in vain that the pilot remonstrated; but even
+while the ship was rounding the point a sudden storm gathered, the
+vessel was dashed upon the rocky coast, all perished save the pilot,
+and the bells sinking to the deep tolled solemnly, as if for the fate of
+those who would not acknowledge God. Still, it is said, when the storm
+rises high--
+
+     "'Those bells, that sullen surges hide,
+     'Peal their deep notes beneath the tide:
+     'Come to thy God in time!'--thus saith the ocean chime:
+     'Storm, billow, whirlwind past, come to thy God at last.'"
+
+[Illustration: 0150]
+
+Such is a specimen of the tales told at many a Cornish fireside. As we
+pass on we feel more and more that we are in the country of legend and
+song. The rolling uplands that stretch inland, with the deep vales and
+furzy hollows that intersect them, are renowned as the realm of King
+Arthur, the hero of British history and fable. Here, on the shore of
+the Atlantic, he may have gathered his good knights around him, to stand
+with them against the heathen invader; or it may be that here he was
+born, according to the legend; while "the great battle of the west," in
+which the hero disappeared, is said to have been fought at Camelford, in
+the neighbourhood. Local legends are full of this royal name; and if,
+as some will have it, King Arthur never existed, the universality of the
+tradition is all the more remarkable. The impress of his memory and
+life is everywhere. Of a little cottage maiden who guided us, we ask her
+name. "Jinnifer," was the reply--an unconscious perpetuation of the name
+of Guinevere, Arthur's Oueen.
+
+A lovely wooded glen breaks the cliff halfway to Tintagel, at the heal
+of which the explorer will find a waterfall, in a wild forest ravine,
+both on a somewhat miniature scale; but in the accessories of rock-hewn
+walks, with clinging shrubs and mountain spring-flowers, watered by the
+dashing spray, the dell was perfect. St. Nighton's Keive, or basin, as
+this romantic nook is called, is a sudden and welcome change from the
+wild sublimity of the rocks above, and the ceaseless thunder of the
+Atlantic. But we must reascend; and soon, from our turfy path upon the
+height we come into full view of a stupendous rock, standing a little
+way out to sea, the home of myriads of seabirds that circle the rock
+with weird cries, or, descending in flocks, skim the surface of the
+waves. They have evidently learned to fear the gun, and to distrust
+mankind.
+
+Tintagel, now approached, is an irregular village, following the lines
+and descents of the cliff. The church is on a wind-swept headland to the
+west, and in its stormiest corner we found the grave and monument of Mr.
+Douglas Cooke, the first editor of the _Saturday Review_. It was curious
+to be reminded of the conflicts of literature at this meeting-place of
+storms.
+
+Tintagel Castle itself we approached by a path that looked perilous,
+but was safe enough, descending from the cliff and rising steeply to a
+promontory or peninsula of slaty rock, on which the ruins stand.
+These are jagged, time-worn; little plan or order can be traced; such
+fragments of building as still exist are no doubt of much more recent
+origin than Arthur's time: the outward glory of the scene is all in the
+majestic sweep and serried outline of the stupendous cliffs, with the
+long roll of the sea breaking ceaselessly into billows at their base.
+The stillness is unbroken, save for this ocean music, with the hoarse
+cry of sea-birds, and the occasional bleating of the few sheep who
+pasture here. The sense of isolation becomes at last oppressive, and we
+gladly retrace our steps to the mainland.
+
+Boscastle remains for a time our home: it is a never-ceasing delight
+to climb to some nook of the cliffs, east and west, which inclose the
+little harbour, or to stroll down to the little pier--a trying walk at
+certain seasons, because of a chemical manure manufactory on the way--or
+to ramble over the grassy slopes, inhaling the pure breezes of the
+Atlantic. The Sunday spent in the neighbourhood was one of peculiar
+delight. Wandering inland, we found a church, in the depths of a wood;
+the congregation seemed to emerge, we knew not how, from deep bowery
+lanes and by-paths among the trees; the service was none the less
+impressive for the singing of birds without and the fragrance of
+spring blossoms stealing through the open windows. The sermon, too, was
+appropriate, a tender, practical exhortation to "delight ourselves in
+God." In the evening of the same day, in the hush of twilight, taking
+our accustomed path over the cliffs, we came upon a group of people, old
+and young, who had evidently come thither after an early evening service
+at one of the chapels: they were holding a prayer-meeting in the rocky
+nook--singing a hymn as we approached, the burden of which was "Over
+there," while wistful eyes gazed across the now purple sea, to the
+splendours which lingered in the west after sunset, as though reminded
+by those tints of heavenly glory of the land that is very far off. It
+was good for the stranger to pause by the way, to join in that touching
+strain, and add his Amen to that Sabbath evening prayer.
+
+[Illustration: 9153]
+
+Boscastle was so attractive that the rest of a long journey had to be
+performed in haste. Bodmin, Truro, Redruth, were all rapidly passed, and
+after climbing Carnbrea, near the latter town, and hearing some of the
+marvellous stories connected with that giant hill, we took rail for
+Penzance, anxious at least to visit St. Michael's Mount, the Logan Rock
+and the Land's End. But what impressed us most, when we reached that
+last and prettiest of Cornish towns, was the climate. We had believed
+it spring; but here it was already summer! The last struggle with wintry
+frosts was over, and the woods and fields were decked with all their
+wealth of verdure; the air had lost its sharpness, and the rich
+colouring of every part of the scene, from the golden furze upon the
+hills to the ruddy lichen on the rocks, seemed to reflect the genial
+glow. Mount's Bay, still and blue, was wonderful in its contrast with
+the Atlantic surges that we had just left on the opposite shore. We
+thought of the words with which Emerson begins one of his lectures: "In
+this refulgent summer it has been a luxury to live."
+
+St. Michael's Mount, that extraordinary combination, geologically
+speaking, of granite and clay-slate, remarkable, too, in its
+correspondence with the much larger Mont St. Michel on the shore of
+Normandy, is as interesting a place to visit as it is beautiful to look
+upon. The views from its summit over sea and land are of surpassing
+loveliness, and to enjoy them to the full it is not necessary to make
+the hazardous attempt to sit in "St. Michael's Chair," the half, it is
+said, of an old stone lantern, but overhanging the precipice in a
+very perilous way. The villagers round the bay will tell you that the
+archangel himself appears in this "chair" when a storm is raging, and
+firmly believe that he is the guardian spirit of these seas.
+
+[Illustration: 0153]
+
+The Logan Rock, to which we next directed our steps, was disappointing
+in more ways than one: the finest part of the cliff-scenery being the
+great granite headland, which visitors are apt to pass unnoticed, in
+searching for the natural curiosity, and in recalling the story of its
+fall and reinstatement. There are, in fact, many "logan" or logging
+rocks in granite districts, locally called Tolmens; one formerly in the
+parish of Constantine, between Penrhyn and Helston, being larger than
+this on the coast, though without its magnificent accessories. Their
+peculiar position is caused by the influence of air and moisture,
+wearing a fissure in the rock, until a detached upper portion rests only
+on a small central base. The wonder is in the bigness of the rock thus
+balanced, and in the evenness of the process of disintegration all
+around: the vast majority of boulders worn away by such agencies being
+of course over balanced, so as to fall on one side.
+
+[Illustration: 0154]
+
+The mechanical restoration of this Logan Rock to its position, and the
+appliances necessary to keep it in balance, give an artifical air to the
+whole, and we were glad to turn away to the stupendous cliff scenery,
+pursuing a path along the rocks to the Land's End, where every point has
+its old Cornish name, and where the combinations of form and outline,
+if less imposing than on the northern shore, are still very fine. The
+granite of which this southern line of coast is composed is more rugged
+and massive, if less variously picturesque, and the admirer of coast
+scenery who has explored the two districts--from Boscastle to Tintagel,
+and from the Logan Rock to the Land's End--has little' more to see or to
+learn.
+
+The great western promontory has been so often described that we
+need but refer to our artist's delineation. The low descending
+promontory, from the great cliff rampart behind, the narrowness of the
+"neck of land" between "two unbounded seas,"--to adopt the phrase of
+Charles Wesley's well-known hymn, here written,--the rocky islands near,
+on which the lighthouse stands, and the ever-chafing restless surge,
+make up a picture which fills the imagination in many after days.
+
+[Illustration: 8155]
+
+From this point "the vast expanse of ocean is at all times a grand
+spectacle; it is terrible when a fierce westerly gale levels before it
+the whole flow of the sea, driving forward one blinding sheet of foam,
+even to the summit of the Land's End precipice; but it is yet more
+solemn in its quieter mood, when, with little wind stirring, the vast
+billows, propagated from some centre of storms far in the Atlantic, come
+slowly to break on the rocks in measured cadences of thunder, the very
+types of enormous power in repose."
+
+But it was now time to turn our thoughts and our course homeward.
+
+Very reluctantly, we left the south of Cornwall unvisited--the Lizard
+Point, Kynance Cove, and the magnificent harbour of Falmouth, with its
+flanking castles of Pen-dennis and St. Mawes.
+
+[Illustration: 9155]
+
+Then there were the great southern towns of Devonshire, with their
+beauties manifold,--Plymouth and Torquay, with the lovely little
+watering-places of Teignmouth and Dawlish, and stately Exeter itself. On
+previous occasions we had visited them all, had spent long dreamy hours
+in Anstey's Cove, then comparatively unvisited by excursionists, had
+tenanted humble lodgings at Babbicombe Bay, before the villas were
+built, and had sailed down the lovely winding Dart to Dartmouth, with
+its harbour among the hills. The natural beauties are still there,
+though art has done much of its best or its worst with them since those
+days. But we must now pass them all by, only in imagination breathing
+their soft southern airs, or casting hasty glances at one or other of
+them from the carriage windows of the romantic South Devon Railway. For
+we have tarried amid the attractions of the far west until the latest
+possible moment. At six in the morning we leave Penzance; at six in the
+evening we are in London.
+
+[Illustration: 0156]
+
+[Illustration: 0158]
+
+
+
+
+THE ENGLISH LAKES
+
+[Illustration: 0159]
+
+|ONE great attraction of the Lake district of Cumberland and
+Westmoreland lies in its singular compactness. Equal beauties, and
+greater sublimity, may be found elsewhere, but nowhere surely has such
+immense variety of natural charms been gathered within the same space.
+A good pedestrian might pass from the north of the district to the
+south--from Keswick to Windermere--in a single day; or in even less time
+might make his way from east to west--from Patterdale to the foot of
+Wastwater. True, in so hurried a journey he would lose much; for weeks
+may delightfully be spent among the mountains, in exploring their hidden
+nooks and wonders. But all that is most beautiful is within the compass
+of a short tour; and an observation which Mr. Ruskin has somewhere made
+about Switzerland is as true of this enchanting country. He says that
+the loveliest and sublimest scenes are to be witnessed from beaten roads
+and spots easy of access; that things as wonderful are open to the
+view of the traveller who cannot leave his carriage as to the Alpine
+mountaineer. There is no doubt an exhilaration of mountain air only
+to be enjoyed on the heights; and for the view of billowy uplands all
+around the spectator, like a Titanic ocean stricken into stillness, the
+visitor to the Lakes ought to ascend Helvellyn; but the views from
+the valleys, or from the roads that encircle the lower slopes of the
+mountains, are incomparable. Familiar as is the road from Ambleside to
+Grasmere, or, in another style of beauty, the drive to Red-bank and High
+Close, or, in yet another, the ascent to the Castle Hill at Keswick,
+they never lose their charm even to those who prefer to leave these easy
+ways for the toilsome walk over the Stake or Sty Head Pass, or up the
+shaley steeps of Scafell or the tremendous grassy slopes of Skiddaw. The
+glories of this district are, in a word, for all who have eyes to see
+and hearts to feel.
+
+[Illustration: 0160]
+
+First impressions have great effect, especially in the approach to
+beautiful scenery; and there are at least three ways to the Lake
+district from the south which compete one with another in their
+interest. The first is by rail, northwards from Lancaster to Penrith,
+passing by the outside or eastern edge of the fells which bound the
+mountain region. This journey throughout is of wonderful beauty,
+especially where the broad grassy fells rise steeply on one side of the
+line, and on the other the hill abruptly descends to the river Lune,
+here little more than a mountain streamlet, eddying and sparkling
+through wooded dells. From Penrith, a branch line to Keswick passes in
+the latter part of its course through an exquisite glen, watered by the
+streams that come down from the great Blencathara ridge, with many
+a glimpse of picturesque crags clothed with fern, shrubs and flowers
+jutting from the mountain's base. All this well prepares the traveller
+for the glorious view that greets him when he emerges from the station
+at Keswick, and looks forth upon the amphitheatre of mountains.
+
+Another method of approach is by leaving the Lancaster and Carlisle
+Railway at the junction for Kendal, so proceeding to the Windermere
+terminus, situated on a height commanding a magnificent view of
+the upper part of the lake. The suddenness with which this scene is
+disclosed, as well as the completeness of its beauty, makes it to many
+the favourite mode of access. It is also perhaps the most convenient,
+conveyances to every part of the district being ready as the trains come
+in. The traveller, however, should it be his first visit, will do well
+to go up to Orrest' Head, behind the hotel, from which the whole of
+Windermere, with its islands and the mountains beyond, form a truly
+enchanting prospect, suggesting to the delighted spectator the wonders
+beyond.
+
+[Illustration: 0161]
+
+But there is another way of entering this fairy region, by which its
+beauties are not suddenly disclosed, but grow one by one upon the sight.
+Still, perhaps, the unique and impressive character of the approach
+gives this method of access the advantage over every other. So we say to
+every reader who has not as yet visited the Lakes, Go by the over-land
+railway along the edge of Morecambe Bay: and to those who have visited
+it by other routes, Go again by this! The line crosses two estuaries,
+of the Kent and of the Leven. When the tide is up, the effect of
+passing through a wide expanse of sea rising to within a few feet of the
+embankment on both sides is wonderfully striking; and at low water the
+great reaches of sand are scarcely less impressive. Morecambe Bay, with
+its curving shore and many inlets, is at all times beautiful, and the
+mountain ranges are seen dimly in outline across its waters. At several
+points the railway embankment seems to have effected a change in the
+sea-level; fields now fertile being fringed on the side farthest from
+the bay by low cliffs, the bases of which were evidently at no remote
+period washed by the waters. A vast additional area might, one would
+think, be still reclaimed by engineering skill without any serious cost.
+But we pass on to Ulverston, where we change carriages, rather than
+proceed at present to Furness* and Coniston; the direct entrance to the
+district being by a short recently-constructed railway along the shore
+of the Leven up to the foot of Windermere. We pass through a pretty
+wooded valley beside the bright, swiftly-descending stream, and at the
+terminus, on the brink of the lake, find a little steamer ready to pass
+upward. At first the charms of Windermere resemble those of some fair
+broad river, flowing between ranges of low wood-crowned hills; but the
+lake soon opens, and after we have passed Belle Isle, opposite Bowness,
+any disappointment we may have felt at first yields to unbounded
+admiration. The mountains at the head of the lake disclose their grand
+outlines, appearing to change their relative positions at every turn of
+the steamer; and some persons acquainted with mountain scenery in many
+lands pronounce the view of these heights a little before sunset in
+summer time to be unsurpassed in beauty. Wansfell Pike on the right,
+Fairfield in front, and the Langdale Pikes in the distance on the left,
+with the broken lines and broad uplands of Loughrigg Fells between, all
+invested with the shadowy tints of evening, form a picture which in its
+tender aerial loveliness seems ready to vanish while we gaze.
+
+     * There is another way of entering the district, by the
+     Furness Railway, and along the west coast, as far as the
+     station at Seascales or Drigg: thence to Wastwater, and
+     Wastdale Head. The traveller will thus plunge at once into
+     the wildest and most desolate part of the Lake country,
+     emerging into fairer scenes.
+
+[Illustration: 0162]
+
+If the ways of entering this fair district are manifold, so are the
+method and order in which its attractions may be viewed. These must be
+studied in the guide books, and every traveller will shape his route for
+himself. In this, much will depend on the time at command. We have spent
+three days among the Lakes, and again a week, again a month; and while
+the shorter period enabled us to see much, the longer did but prove to
+us that the beauties were inexhaustible. Some visitors take Ambleside
+as their headquarters, some Grasmere, some Keswick; others, happier in
+their decision, have no headquarters at all, but range from place to
+place. As a centre, we should prefer Grasmere; but every one will have
+his own preference. It may almost be said that the Lake country has
+its controversies and sects, with as many divisions of opinion on the
+question which part is the fairest, as on more important matters.
+Some give the palm to Ullswater among the lakes, an equal number to
+Denventwater, a minority to Windermere, while there are those who prefer
+the silent and gloomy Wastwater. Then who shall say whether the view
+from Helvellyn, Skiddaw, or Scafell is the most marvellous in its
+beauty? Our advice is to join none of the sects, to take no part in
+the controversy, to climb all three of the mountains, and to visit, if
+possible, all the lakes! After this our advice may be thought to savour
+of partisanship, when we say that the visitor who wishes to know the
+full and perfect beauty of this region, whether he enter from the north,
+or west, or south, must on no account neglect to visit Keswick and
+Skiddaw.
+
+[Illustration: 0163]
+
+The lovely lake of Derwentwater is so near to the little town, there are
+so many points, as Friar's Crag, Castle Crag, and Latrigg, accessible by
+the most moderate walking, and the days' excursions from the place are
+so various and delightful, that none will feel our counsel to be out of
+place. Not to mention that, in the by no means rare or improbable event
+of a rainy day, there are the pencil factories and the models of
+the Lake district. The latter should be seen alike by those who have
+traversed the region, and by those who have not; the former will be
+interested in recognising the places that they have visited, and the
+latter, in making out their intended tours.
+
+The great excursion from Keswick is one which is made by multitudes on
+foot or in carriages; and for variety of charm within a comparatively
+short compass its equal is hardly to be found. First the road leads
+between the lake and an almost perpendicular crag, wooded to the summit.
+Barrow Falls, in the pleasure-grounds of a mansion, may be visited on
+the way; and few will omit to see Lodore, at the other end of the lake.
+The charm here is that of a steep and rocky glen: rarely indeed does
+the "water come down," at least in the summer-time, after the fashion
+described in Southey's famous lines.
+
+[Illustration: 9164]
+
+Then the grandeurs of Borrowdale unfold themselves, and Rossthwaite, in
+the heart of this valley, is the very ideal of sequestered loveliness.
+The road, turning to the right at Seatoller, climbs a long steep hill
+beside a dashing torrent. A little way beyond the summit is Honister
+Crag, most magnificent of inland cliffs; and so, amid wild rock-scenery
+on either hand, we descend to Buttermere. The drive now discloses
+a grand amphitheatre of mountains, whose summits form a rugged
+ever-changing line against the sky. Soon the little inn is reached;
+but we would advise no tourist so to occupy himself with the welcome
+refreshment, though flavoured with that "best sauce," a sharp-set
+appetite, or even with the ever-amusing "Visitors' Book," as to neglect
+rowing across Crummock Water, when a walk of about a mile will take him
+to Scale Force, in its deep rocky glen, the loftiest and noblest, as
+well as the most secluded of the lake waterfalls. The drive back from
+Buttermere to Keswick, by the Newland Valley, or the Vale of Lorton,
+with its old yew tree, is full of interest, from the bold mountain
+forms ever in view, but has not the wonderfully varied beauty of the
+Borrowdale and Seatoller route.
+
+Everybody, as we have said, takes this drive: but there is an excursion
+known to comparatively few, not a very long one, but "beautiful
+exceedingly."
+
+Should a morning at Keswick be unemployed, or if the question should
+arise in the interval of wider explorations: "What shall I do to-day?"
+our advice is to go up to Watendlath. This is a narrow upland valley,
+extending from the head of the stream that supplies Barrow Fall, to that
+which comes down at Lodore, then up by the latter to the tarn from which
+it flows. It may be reached by one of two or three routes from below,
+and after a short ascent the traveller finds himself, as it were, in
+the very heart of the hills; a still and lovely world, above the beaten
+ways, with nature's fragrance and music all around. We have suggested "a
+morning" for the excursion, but it is still better to proceed leisurely;
+resting on some turfy bank beside the path, in happy talk with congenial
+friends; or, if alone, in quiet communion with our own souls and with
+Him who has made the world so beautiful. In the earlier parts of the
+walk the occasional views over Derwentwater, and down to Bassenthwaite,
+with Skiddaw towering grandly in one direction, and the Borrowdale
+Mountains in another, are magnificent; but in the heart of the glen,
+leading up beside the Lodore torrent, these are gradually left behind.
+When the hamlet, and the tarn with its bright rippling waters, at length
+are reached, and the torrent has been crossed by a little rustic bridge,
+Ross-thwaite is descried below, and may be reached by a steep descent;
+or the stout pedestrian may strike boldly over Armboth Fall for
+Thirlmere at the foot of Helvellyn, or if he please may climb still
+higher by the side of the Lodore stream until he reaches Blea Tarn, high
+up among the fells.
+
+Which of the three great mountains of the Lake district to choose in
+preference for an ascent, it would be hard to say. On the whole, our
+own associations would lead us to select Skiddaw; but if Helvellyn and
+Scafell can also be ascended, so much the better. The distant views
+from Skiddaw of the Solway Firth and the Scottish hills are very fine
+in clear weather; but undoubtedly the wild magnificence of the mountain
+groups as seen from Helvellyn is incomparable. The majesty of Scafell is
+the majesty of desolation. Carlyle says:--
+
+"From this centre of the mountain region, beautiful and solemn is the
+aspect to the traveller. He beholds a world of mountains, a hundred
+savage peaks--like giant spirits of the wilderness; there in their
+silence, in their solitude, even as on the night when Noah's deluge
+first dried." *
+
+     * _Sartor Resartus._
+
+But of all mountain scenes, that which most abides in our memory is
+that which was suddenly outspread before us one summer evening, a little
+before sunset, in descending Skiddaw. The afternoon had brought swirling
+blinding mists about our upward path; we had reached the summit with
+difficulty, only to find ourselves enveloped on all sides in a white
+chilly sea of cloud. Passing breezes and sweeping sheets of vapour had
+created the hope that the mists would soon pass away; but it seemed in
+vain to wait, and we began descending. Then as we reached a little knoll
+on the mountain's side, the mist parted before us, and in an instant
+had rolled far back on either side. Through its vast shadowy portal,
+it was as if Paradise were unveiled! The atmosphere below was perfectly
+transparent and still; the rays of the sun were reflected in crimson
+glory from the lake, so as in an instant to bring to the mind of every
+member of our party the Apocalyptic vision of the "sea of glass mingled
+with fire." The splendour lighted up every mountain side where it fell,
+their crags were gold and purple, the verdure of the upland slopes and
+thick woods, with the living green of the woods and meadows, gleamed
+with a more than tropical brilliancy; and the long dark shadows which
+everywhere lay athwart the scene only set in brighter contrast the
+surrounding glory. The mists fleeted, vanishing as they ascended the
+mountain side; the magnificence of colouring soon subsided into quiet
+loveliness, then into a sober grey; the vision had faded, leaving deep
+suggestions of those possibilities of beauty everywhere latent in this
+fair creation, perhaps to be fully disclosed when the new heavens and
+earth shall appear.
+
+Space fails us now to speak of the rival beauties of Ullswater, where
+the surrounding mountains are closer and grander than in any other part
+of the district. Every competent pedestrian we would advise to walk
+to this lake, from the border of Thirlmere, and over the summit of
+Helvellyn. Should this be too great a tax on the tourist's powers, he
+will find the way by Griesdale, a pass between Fairfield and Helvellyn,
+a very practicable walk amid grand scenery. And when Ullswater is
+reached, what more charming nook can there be than Patterdale, deep set
+among the hills? After a little time spent there, we pant perhaps for
+more open scenery and a more stimulating atmosphere; and there is the
+climb over Kirkstone Pass to meet our desire, and to carry us back to
+beautiful Windermere, our first love and our last, in all this haunted
+realm!
+
+We have pursued for the most part a beaten track, verily believing, as
+we said at the outset, that here the choicest beauties are to be found.
+But there is many a hidden little-visited nook where the superadded
+charm of solitude seems to enhance all the rest; and we shall be
+indignantly told by many that we have left the loveliest spots without
+a mention. What can be more perfectly beautiful than the view's from the
+hill-sides above the head of Coniston Water? What valley can vie, in its
+combination of lofty cliff, green slopes, richly varied woodland, and
+gleam of rushing waters, with the approach from Coniston to Little
+Langdale? The few who in another part of the district follow the Liza
+down to Ennerdale will have it that there is a wild beauty in this glen
+which gives it a charm beyond all others. And so is it on the other
+side, with the scarcely larger band of visitors to secluded Mardale and
+wild and lonely Haweswater. Then, as to mountain passes, the climber
+sneers at Griesdale, calls Kirkstone a "Turn-pike-road," thinks there is
+nothing worth an effort but the Stake, between Langdale and Borrowdale,
+Sty Head, between Langdale and Wastdale, or Black Sail and Scarf Gap,
+from Wastdale to Buttermere. And even these passes are not Alpine. Go
+in a fault-finding mood, and you will discover that the torrents are
+without volume, that the mountains lack elevation, that the lakes are
+insignificant in size. But the man whose eye and heart are open to the
+impression of beauty will be indifferent to these comparisons, will
+rather rejoice in the limitations which permit every element of grandeur
+and loveliness to be gathered into so small a space; and for ourselves
+we may say that we have never appreciated the charm of the English Lakes
+so truly as when we have visited them after a tour amid the mightier
+wonders of Switzerland.
+
+[Illustration: 0167]
+
+At Ambleside there is many a pleasant resting-place in which to recall
+the pleasures and sum up the impressions of the journey, and to dwell,
+as many love to do, upon the associations of one and another great name
+by turns with almost every part of the district. First and foremost is
+Wordsworth, the poet of nature;--the great "Lake Poet," only because
+nature here is at her loveliest,--who from his home at Grasmere, and
+afterwards at Rydal Mount, gave utterance, more richly, truly, deeply,
+than any writer of his generation, of man's delight in the Creator
+s work. The association of his name with his beloved lake country
+is imperishable. Many years ago De Quincey wrote, with reference
+to Wordsworth's earlier poems, "The very names of the ancient
+hills--Fairfield, Seat Sandal, Helvellyn, Blen-cathara, Glaramara; the
+names of the sequestered glens--such as Borrowdale, Martindale, Mardale,
+Wastdale, and Ennerdale; but, above all, the shy pastoral recesses,
+not garishly in the world's eye, like Windermere or Der-wentwater,
+but lurking half unknown to the traveller of that day--Grasmere, for
+instance, the lovely abode of the poet himself, solitary, and yet
+sowed, as it were, with a thin diffusion of humble dwellings--here a
+scattering, and there a clustering, as in the starry heavens--sufficient
+to afford, at every turn and angle, human remembrances and memorials of
+time-honoured affections, or of passions (as the 'Churchyard amongst
+the Mountains' will amply demonstrate), not wanting even in scenic and
+tragical interest--these were so many local spells upon me, equally
+poetic and elevating with the Miltonic names of Valdarno and
+Vallombrosa." *
+
+     * Works, vol. ii. p. 124.
+
+[Illustration: 9168]
+
+The spell remains, though some of the aspects of the scenery have
+changed. Grasmere, for instance, is no longer a "shy pastoral recess,"
+but the stream of life that daily pours through the valley cannot impair
+its beauty. This of all the lakes possesses, when the wind is still,
+the supreme charm of perfect stillness and transparency. We have seen
+it when it was absolutely impossible to distinguish its richly-wooded
+banks, or the island near its centre, from their reflection in the
+unrippled water. The unclouded blue of the heavens was mirrored, as in
+fathomless depths. It was a "sea of glass like unto crystal." It may be
+hoped that this loveliness will be uninvaded by anything which would mar
+its perfection. We know that Wordsworth pathetically protested against
+the invasion of the railway; but on the height which the Windermere
+station occupies, at the very portal of this beautiful land, it in no
+degree interferes with the enjoyment of the scenery, while facilitating
+the access of multitudes who could not otherwise share the delight. The
+railway station at the foot of the lake, that on the border of Coniston,
+and even that at Keswick, are, so to speak, outside the magic circle;
+but we can fully sympathise with Mr. Ruskin and others who have employed
+such strenuous efforts to resist every threatened or possible inroad.
+The very compactness of the region, and the ease with which, when once
+reached, it may be traversed throughout, might lead the most impatient
+traveller to be satisfied with the existing means of swift access. When
+the border is gained, let him proceed leisurely, and enjoy. If young,
+the stagecoach travelling, which is here so common, may yield him an
+unfamiliar, though old-fashioned kind of delight. To judge from our
+own youthful recollections, as well as from the literature of a past
+generation, there was, in favourable circumstances of scenery and
+weather, an exhilaration in such journeys which never is or can be known
+in the rapid rush through railway cuttings, and over high embankments,
+behind the "Erebus" or "Phlegethon," at the rate of fifty miles an hour!
+And many an elderly or middle-aged man almost unconsciously exults in
+the renewal of his youth in that grand coach-drive from Windermere over
+Dunmail Raise to Keswick.
+
+[Illustration: 0169]
+
+But we return for a moment to the personal associations of this region.
+Southey has often been classed with Wordsworth as belonging to a school
+of "Lake Poets." Nothing could be more erroneous, as De Quincey pointed
+out long ago. It is true that these poets both lived by the lakes;
+but there is no sense in which they can be described as of the same
+"school." In fact, they are curiously unlike in many of their chief
+characteristics; although they esteemed each other truly; and very
+noble are the lines which Wordsworth has dedicated to the memory of his
+friend:
+
+     "Wide were his aims; yet in no human breast
+     Could private feelings find a holier nest.
+     His joys, his griefs, have vanished like a cloud
+     From Skiddaw's top; but he to heaven was vowed,
+     Through a life long and pure, and Christian faith
+     Calmed in his soul the fear of change and death." *
+
+     * From the Epitaph on Southey, by Wordsworth, in Crosthwaite
+     Church, Keswick.
+
+[Illustration: 0170]
+
+Other names arise to mind. Close under Orrest Head was Elleray, once
+the beautiful home of Professor Wilson, the "Christopher North" whose
+"recreations" were to describe, in language of a rich and gorgeous
+luxuriance which the present generation is scarcely able to enjoy, but
+which the readers of a past age dwelt upon with rapture, the glories of
+mountain, lake, and sky. Fox How and the Knoll, between Windermere
+and Rydal Water, bring to mind two very different names, each of great
+influence in their generation. At the former, Dr. Arnold, of Rugby,
+passed his happy vacations; in the latter, Miss Harriet Martineau
+endeavoured--with what success we attempt not here to judge--to work out
+her theory of life. The name of Coleridge also connects itself with this
+region; not of the philosophic teacher and wonderful talker, though we
+have known the mistake to be made by people well informed. Samuel Taylor
+Coleridge, as Carlyle says, "sat on Highgate Hill having left the lakes
+for the great city, never to return." It was his son Hartley whose
+brilliant gifts, in their fitful and broken splendour, have caused the
+name of Coleridge to be remembered, and repeated with pitying affection,
+all through the Grasmere Vale.
+
+[Illustration: 0171]
+
+We turn reluctantly from this world of beauty, happy in the remembrance
+of what we have seen and felt, happier perhaps that so much remains
+unvisited in a region where every by-way and secluded dell has its own
+peculiar loveliness, and that we may hope to return again and yet again
+to explore its wonders. For the mountain climber, are there not Great
+Gable, Bowfell, Fairfield, Pillar Mountain in Ennerdale, steepest of
+all, Blen-cathara, otherwise Saddleback, with its unequalled view of
+Derwentwater, and Coniston Old Man, with its grand prospects over land
+and sea? These six are scarcely inferior in height to the imperial
+three,* whose names and forms are most familiar. Then the Langdales
+should be climbed; one or both, as a position below the loftiest in a
+mountain land affords the best point of view from which to apprehend the
+grandeur of the surrounding hills. And after the greater lakes have been
+duly visited, what wealth of hidden beauty is there in those retired
+valleys, where rivulets suddenly expand into fair still sheets of
+water, reflecting the mountains at whose base they lie; and what lonely
+grandeur in the tarns high among the hills, rarely visited by human
+foot, and, like Scales Tarn on Blencathara, so surrounded by wild crags
+as hardly ever to admit the sunlight! Excursion after excursion may be
+made, not only by the angler, but by those who have no taste for such
+sport, to these lofty miniature lakes.
+
+[Illustration: 9171]
+
+Or, if the tourist delights in waterfalls, let him seek out Dungeon
+Ghyll in Langdale, or go up behind the inn at Ambleside to Stock Ghyll,
+or stop on his way through the valley to admire the two picturesque
+Falls at Rydal, or ramble through Gowbarrow Park, near Ullswater, as far
+as Airey or Ara Force, which "by Lyulph's Tower speaks from the woody
+glen," or let him make a special excursion to Eskdale to see Stanley
+Ghyll, described by some tourists as the most beautiful of all. The
+beauty of these cascades, and of others less famed, arises not from the
+volume of water, but from the picturesqueness of the glens in which they
+lie; these being, in almost every case, deep and narrow fissures in the
+rock, covered with ferns, mosses and shrubs in the utmost luxuriance.
+The varied tints of the rocks and of the foliage by which they are
+clothed give richness of colouring to the picture; and when the sunlight
+falls upon the dashing spray, and rainbow tints hang over the fall, the
+surpassing loveliness of the scene is even enhanced by the smallness of
+its scale.
+
+It would hardly be possible to omit, in any notice of the Lake district,
+however incomplete, a reference to the great uncertainty of the weather.
+In the deeper valleys, especially, as Wastdale and Buttermere, the
+traveller is often sorely disappointed by incessant rain. Yet even
+this has its compensation in the increased translucency of the air,
+the beauty of the mountain streams and cascades, with the incomparable
+splendours of the parting clouds, when the sunlight has smitten them
+apart, and their white trains vanishing up the mountain-side are as the
+robes of angels. When the summer airs elsewhere are stifling, and the
+ground is parched, the effect of the frequent mists and showers is fully
+seen. For then the whole lake country is as green as an emerald; and,
+except in the deepest valleys, the wearied brain and limbs are refreshed
+by stimulating mountain airs. Such seasons perhaps are the best for a
+visit to the Lakes; but they are beautiful in winter too, when the snows
+linger on the heights, and in the early spring, when the greensward is
+carpeted with wild flowers, and in the autumn, when the purple, gold,
+and crimson clothe the woods in a royal array, while the withered Reaves
+elsewhere strew all the ground. "Those only know our country," say the
+dwellers among the lakes, "who live here all the year round." Be it
+so. It is good to carry in memory, into the busy, more prosaic walks of
+life, the glimpse, if it be no more, of all this beauty; and, after
+all, it is the "still sad music of humanity" that thrills the soul more
+deeply than the music of the whispering woods, or of the torrent down
+the mountain side. It was the Poet of the Lakes and Mountains who closed
+one of the noblest of his odes by the words:
+
+     "Thanks to the human heart by which we live,
+     Thanks to its tenderness, its joys, its fears;
+     To me, the meanest flower that blows can give
+     Thoughts that do often lie too deep for tears."
+
+[Illustration: 0174]
+
+
+
+
+THE EASTERN COUNTIES
+
+[Illustration: 0175]
+
+|John Foster quaintly says that "the characteristic of genius is, that
+it can light its own fire:" he might have added that it can provide its
+own fuel. Mere talent is mainly dependent upon adventitious aids and
+favourable circumstances, whilst genius can work with the clumsiest
+tools and the most intractable materials. The magnificent scenery of
+Switzerland and the Scotch Highlands has produced no artist or poet of
+the first rank. The featureless landscape of Holland or of East
+Anglia sufficed for Cuyp or Hobbema, or Ruysdael, for Gainsborough
+or Constable, or Old: Crome. The quiet loveliness of Warwickshire was
+enough for Shakspere's genius. Milton had seen the glories of the Alps
+and Apennines, but Buckinghamshire furnished the subject-matter of
+_L'Allegro_ and _Il Penseroso_. The dreary flats of Bedfordshire and
+Huntingdonshire cease to be dull and prosaic in Cowper s verse.
+
+The themes of Tennyson's earlier poems were drawn from the fens and
+meres and melancholy swamps of Lincolnshire. The truth is, that the eye
+makes its own pictures, and sees just what it has the power of seeing.
+
+     "O Lady! we receive but what we give,
+     And in our life alone does nature live:
+     Ours is her wedding-garment, ours her shroud!
+     And would we aught behold, of higher worth,
+     Than that inanimate cold world allowed
+     To the poor, loveless, ever-anxious crowd,
+     Ah! from the soul itself must issue forth
+     A light, a glory, a fair luminous cloud
+     Enveloping the Earth--
+     And from the soul itself must there be sent
+     A sweet and potent voice, of its own birth,
+     Of all sweet sounds the life and element."*
+
+     * Coleridge's Sybilline Leaves.
+
+[Illustration: 0176]
+
+It must, however, be confessed that it would be difficult at the present
+day to find poetry or beauty in the Fen country. The meres have been
+drained, the swamps have been reclaimed. The profusion of aquatic plants
+and wild-fowl has disappeared. Whittlesea Mere and Ramsey-Mere have been
+brought under the plough. Even the picturesque old windmills have given
+place to the hideous chimney-shafts of pumping stations worked by steam.
+We may almost parody the famous chapter of Olaus Magnus on "Snakes in
+Iceland," and say--there are no fens in the fen country. If we would
+know what the fens were once like, we must, read some of Tennyson's
+earlier poems, or better still perhaps, one of Kingsley's prose Idylls:
+
+"A certain sadness is pardonable to one who watches the destruction of a
+grand natural phenomenon, even though its destruction bring blessings to
+the human race. Reason and conscience tell us, that it is right and good
+that the Great Fen should have become, instead of a waste and howling
+wilderness, a garden of the Lord, where
+
+     'All the land in flowery squares,
+     Beneath a broad and equal-blowing wind,
+     Smell of the coming summer.'
+
+And yet the fancy may linger, without blame, over the shining meres,
+the golden reed-beds, the countless water-fowl, the strange and gaudy
+insects, the wild nature, the mystery, the majesty--for mystery and
+majesty there were--which haunted the deep fens for many a hundred
+years. Little thinks the Scotsman, whirled down by the Great Northern
+Railway from Peterborough to Huntingdon, what a grand place, even twenty
+years ago, was that Holme and Whittlesea which is now but a black,
+unsightly, steaming flat, from which the meres and reed-beds of the old
+world are gone, while the corn and roots of the new world have not as
+yet taken their place.
+
+[Illustration: 0177]
+
+"But grand enough it was, that black ugly place, when backed by Caistor
+Hanglands and Holme Wood, and the patches of the primeval forest; while
+dark-green alders, and pale-green reeds, stretched for miles round the
+broad lagoon, where the coot clanked, and the bittern boomed, and the
+sedge-bird, not content with its own sweet song, mocked the notes of all
+the birds around; while high overhead hung motionless hawk beyond hawk,
+buzzard beyond buzzard, kite beyond kite, as far as the eye could see.
+Far off, upon the silver mere, would rise a puff of smoke from a punt,
+invisible from its flatness and its white paint. Then down the wind came
+the boom of the great stanchion-gun; and after that sound another sound,
+louder as it neared; a cry as of all the bells of Cambridge, and all
+the hounds of Cottesmore; and overhead rushed and whirled the skein of
+terrified wildfowl, screaming, piping, clacking, croaking, filling the
+air with the hoarse rattle of their wings, while clear above all sounded
+the wild whistle of the curlew, and the trumpet note of the great wild
+swan.
+
+[Illustration: 9178]
+
+"They are all gone now. No longer do the ruffs trample the sedge into a
+hard floor in their fighting-rings, while the sober reeves stand round
+admiring the tournament of their lovers, gay with ears and tippets,
+no two of them alike. Gone are ruffs and reeves, spoonbills, bitterns,
+avosets; the very snipe, one hears, disdains to breed. Gone, too, not
+only from Whittlesea but from the whole world, is that most exquisite
+of English butterflies, _Lycaena dispar_--the great copper; and many a
+curious insect more. Ah, well, at least we shall have wheat and mutton
+instead, and no more typhus and ague; and, it is to be hoped, no more
+brandy-drinking and opium-eating; and children will live and not die.
+For it was a hard place to live in, the old Fen; a place wherein one
+heard of 'unexampled instances of longevity,' for the same reason that
+one hears of them in savage tribes--that few lived to old age at all,
+save those iron constitutions which nothing could break down." *
+
+     * Prose Idylls, New and Old, by Rev. Charles Kingsley.
+
+One of the most characteristic walks in the Fen country is that from
+Peakirk (St. Pega Kirk), a station on the Peterborough and Spalding
+line, to Crowland. The road runs along the top of a high bank, raised so
+as to be above the reach of the inundations. On either hand a flat and
+dreary plain stretches to the horizon. It is intersected by ditches
+filled with black stagnant water and fringed by aquatic plants, amongst
+which the yellow iris is prominent. Here and there a farm-house,
+approached by an avenue of pollard-willows, and surrounded by a few
+acres of well-cultivated land, breaks in upon the monotony of the scene.
+Elsewhere the vegetation is rank and coarse but abundant, upon which
+droves of horses and cattle thrive. A perpetual chorus of croaking from
+innumerable frogs in the marshes accompanies the pedestrian on his way,
+to which the sweet notes of the sedge-warbler and other small birds form
+an exquisite accompaniment.
+
+[Illustration: 0180]
+
+In the winter, when the fens are flooded and frozen over, the scene is
+one of rare interest and excitement. The clear sharp ring of the skates
+on the ice, the merry shouts of the skaters, the stir and bustle of a
+district usually so dull and stagnant, the feats of agility and skill
+displayed by a peasantry to skate a mile in two minutes, but without
+success, though he is said to have only exceeded the two minutes by two
+seconds.
+
+[Illustration: 8181]
+
+The ordinary pace of a fast skater is one mile in three and a half
+or four minutes." He who is so fortunate as to see one of the great
+skating-revels of these eastern counties under the glowing light of
+a sunrise or a sunset will not easily forget it--for the sunrises and
+sunsets of the Fen country are of incomparable splendour. It is an error
+to suppose that the dry pure atmosphere of Southern Europe is favourable
+to these magnificent effects of colour. Some of the finest sunsets I
+have ever seen have been when walking westward along Oxford Street on a
+frosty evening. The clouds of smoke and mist hanging over the great city
+have become suffused with a glory of crimson and purple and amber with
+which no Italian sky can compare. So in the Fen country, the clouds and
+fogs driven inland from the sea, and the humid vapours exhaled from the
+soil, glow with all imaginable hues in the light of the setting sun. The
+cold colourless landscape reflects the radiance and is tinged with the
+colours of the sky; the skaters as they glide swiftly past through the
+golden haze seem like actors in some fairy spectacle.
+
+[Illustration: 0182]
+
+Before the reclamation of the fens, the swamps and meres which covered
+so large a portion of the soil were the haunt of innumerable wild fowl,
+which were the source of considerable profit to the fensmen. Of late
+years their numbers have greatly diminished, but the London market is
+still largely supplied from this district. Flat-bottomed boats screened
+by reeds so as to resemble floating islands are fitted with heavy
+duck-guns, from a single discharge of which dozens of birds sometimes
+fall. One of the best duck-decoys remaining in East Anglia lies at a
+short distance from the road midway between Peakirk and Crowland. A
+small mere a few acres in extent forms the scene of operations. From
+this run eight ditches, or "pipes," as they are locally called, ten
+or twelve feet wide at the entrance, and about a hundred feet long,
+diminishing to a narrow gutter at the end. They curve round so that only
+a small part of the whole is visible from any point. They are inclosed
+by walls of matted reeds and roofed over by nets. Tame ducks are trained
+to lead the way into the mouths of the pipes, and are followed by
+the wild fowl. Little dogs, of a white or red colour, enter the pipes
+through holes made in the reed screens, gambol about inside for a minute
+or two, come out again, and again show themselves a little higher up
+the pipe. The wild fowl, though easily alarmed, are very curious and
+inquisitive. They swim or fly forward to investigate this strange
+phenomenon till they have gone too far to recede, when the net closes
+upon them, and the whole flock is taken.
+
+[Illustration: 0183]
+
+In the days of yore, when this district resembled a great lake studded
+with numerous islands fringed with willow groves, it was the seat
+of numerous ecclesiastical establishments of great wealth and
+influence--Peterborough, Crowland, Ely, Thorney, Spalding, Ramsey and
+others. The insulated sites were favourable to the seclusion of the
+cloister, the patches of land were exceedingly fertile, and the water
+abounded with fish and wild fowl. On one of these Fen islands rose the
+great Abbey of Crowland, the ruins of which come into view some miles
+before we reach it. Its foundation goes back to Saxon times, and it was
+repeatedly sacked by the Danes. Turketul, grandson of King Alfred, who
+through four successive reigns had rendered important services to the
+nation by his valour in the field and his wisdom in counsel, returning
+from a journey to the North, found the abbey a ruin. Of the once
+flourishing community only three monks remained to tell the story of
+the massacre of their brethren and the destruction of their abbey by
+the invaders. They accommodated their illustrious visitor to the best
+of their ability amongst the fire-scathed walls of the church, and
+entreated his intercession with the king for assistance. The interview
+made a deep impression on his mind, and, reaching home, he astonished
+his royal master by avowing his intention to become a monk. Accordingly
+he caused proclamation to be made by public crier that he was anxious
+to discharge his debts, and if he had wronged any man would restore
+fourfold. Resigning all his offices, Turketul repaired to the Fens,
+devoted himself to the rebuilding of the abbey and the restoration of
+its fallen fortunes, became abbot, and there spent the remainder of his
+days.
+
+[Illustration: 9184]
+
+A curious structure, known as Crowland Bridge, which stands in the
+centre of the town, has greatly perplexed archaeologists, and given rise
+to various legends. It consists of three semi-arches whose bases stand
+equi-dis-tant from each other in the circumference of a circle and unite
+in the centre. At the foot of one of the arches is a mutilated statue,
+apparently holding an orb in the right hand. Local tradition declares
+that three rivers ran through the three arches into an immense pit dug
+to receive them, and that the statue represents Oliver Cromwell with a
+penny roll in his hand! The most probable explanation of the remarkable
+structure is that it was a high cross built to form a trysting-place for
+the fens-men, who, when the Fens were flooded, might bring hither their
+produce for sale in boats, and that the figure is St. Guthlac, the
+founder and patron of the abbey.
+
+If East Anglia possesses little natural beauty, it is rich in historical
+associations. Reference has already been made to the many noble ruins
+of ancient ecclesiastical buildings throughout the Fen country. Their
+traditional reputation has been handed down in an old rhyming legend:
+
+     "Ramsey, the rich of gold and of fee,
+     Thorney, the flower of many a fair tree,
+     Crowland, the courteous of their meat and drink,
+     Spalding, the gluttons, as all men do think,
+     Peterborough the proud, as all men do say,
+     Sawtrey, by the way, that old abbey,
+     Gave more alms in one day than all they."
+
+[Illustration: 0185]
+
+It maybe doubted whether in any part of the world four such cathedrals
+can be found in the same compass as Lincoln, Peterborough, Ely, and
+Norwich. And it is certain that with the single and doubtful exception
+of Oxford, no such magnificent collection of collegiate edifices exists
+as those of Cambridge. "That long street which, beginning from the
+Trumpington Road, skirts the magnificent Fitzwilliam Museum and the Pitt
+Press; which passes by ancient Peterhouse and quaint St. Catherine on
+one side; which is there known as King's Road and fronts the glories of
+King's College, the Senate House, the Library, and Caius College; which
+then in a darkening and narrow street, almost a very gorge, skirts the
+old historic gateways of Trinity and St. John's, and afterwards emerges
+past the chapel which is the latest architectural glory of Cambridge,
+opposite the venerable round church and near the new buildings of the
+Union--certainly in its long broken wavering line, this street may enter
+into formidable competition with the High Street of Oxford or any of the
+streets of the world.
+
+[Illustration: 0186]
+
+There are, moreover, several distinct features in which Cambridge is
+unsurpassable. The wide silent old court of Trinity, with its babbling
+fountain; the glorious structure of King's College; above all, that
+exquisite scenery, a composition made up of many varying beauties known
+as the "backs of the colleges are separate features to which Oxford can
+hardly offer a parallel. As an Oxford poet has said:--
+
+     "Ah me! were ever river banks so fair,
+     Gardens so fit for nightingales as these?
+     Were ever haunts so meet for summer breeze,
+     Or pensive walk in evening's golden air?
+     Was ever town so rich in court and tower
+     To woo and win stray moonlight every hour?" *
+
+     * From Oxford and Cambridge, their Memories and
+     Associations. Religious Tract Society.
+
+[Illustration: 0188]
+
+Among the cities of East Anglia, Norwich claims special mention. Though
+a local couplet declares that--
+
+     "Caistor was a city when Norwich was none.
+     And Norwich was builded with Caistor stone."
+
+[Illustration: 8189]
+
+Yet the _parvenu_ upstart goes back to the time of the Roman occupation
+of the island. It was the capital of the Saxon kingdom of East Anglia,
+and for many centuries afterwards it held a prominent place in our
+history. So early as the reign of Edward III. it was one of the great
+centres of our manufacturing industry; the Flemish settlers having
+here introduced or developed the woollen trade. In pre-reformation days
+it was a stronghold of the Wyckliffites or Lollards, many of whom here
+sealed their testimony with their blood. In 1531, Thomas Bilney was
+added to the list of worthies who make up the Norwich Martyrology.
+Probably no other provincial town in England has given so many eminent
+names to the literature, science, and art of our country, from
+Sir Thomas Browne, author of the _Religio Medici_, down to Harriet
+Martineau. Even apart from these interesting associations, Norwich
+itself deserves and will well repay a visit.
+
+[Illustration: 9189]
+
+Surrounded by wooded slopes and pleasant meadows and winding streams,
+its streets full of quaint picturesque architecture, and dominated by
+its noble castle and cathedral, few or none of our English cities offer
+a more pleasing combination of urban and rural beauty.
+
+The tourist in search of the picturesque in East Anglia will do well to
+include Yarmouth among his wanderings.
+
+Its surroundings indeed are as flat and uninteresting as possible. The
+readers of David Copperfield will remember his description: "As we drew
+a little nearer and saw the whole adjacent prospect lying in a straight
+line under the sky, I hinted to Peggotty that a mound or so might have
+improved it; and also that if the land had been a little more separated
+from the sea, and that the town and the tide had not been quite so mixed
+up like toast and water, it would have been nicer. But Peggotty said
+with greater emphasis than usual, that we must take things as we found
+them; and that for her part she was proud to call herself a Yarmouth
+Bloater."
+
+[Illustration: 0190]
+
+But the town is a curious combination of English bustle and Dutch
+quaintness. Its quay reminds the traveller of the Boomptjies of
+Rotterdam; its "rows," only a few feet wide, with a narrow riband of
+sky overhead, recall the narrow streets of Genoa; its vast fleet of
+herring-boats discharging their silvery "harvest of the sea" at the
+wharves, offer a spectacle almost unique in the world. Unlike Norwich
+and many other neighbouring towns, Yarmouth has been the scene of no
+important event in our history, nor has it contributed any illustrious
+name to our list of worthies. A stained glass window in the parish
+church, however, perpetuates the earthly memory of one whom Scripture
+declares shall be "had in everlasting remembrance"--Sarah Martin, the
+prison visitor. She was a poor dressmaker, without wealth or social
+position, earning with difficulty a scanty subsistence by her needle,
+yet doing a work comparable to that of John Howard or of Elizabeth
+Fry. The great lesson of her life has been admirably inculcated by an
+eloquent American preacher:
+
+[Illustration: 8191]
+
+"Here, on a lowly bed, in an English village by the sea,--fades out the
+earthly life of one of God's humblest but noblest servants. Worn with
+the patient care of deserted prisoners and malefactors in the town gaol
+for twenty-four years of unthanked service, earning her bread with
+her hands, and putting songs of worship on the lips of these penitent
+criminals,--Bible and Prayer-book in his feeble hand, saying, at the
+end, 'I have been the happiest of men, yet I feel that death will be
+gain to me, through Christ who died for me.'
+
+[Illustration: 9191]
+
+"Blessed be God for the manifold features of triumphant faith!--that He
+suffers His children to walk toward Him through ways so various in their
+outward look--Sarah Martin; from her cottage bed, Earl Spencer from his
+gorgeous couch, little children in their innocence, unpretending women
+in the quiet ministrations of faithful love, strong and useful and
+honoured men, whom suffering households and institutions and churches
+mourn. All bending their faces towards the Everlasting Light, in one
+faith, one cheering hope, called by one Lord, who has overcome the
+world, and dieth no more! The sun sets; the autumn fades; life hastens
+with us all. But we stand yet in our Master's vineyard. All the days of
+our appointed time let us labour righteously, and pray and wait, till
+our change come, that we may change only from virtue to virtue, from
+faith to faith, and thus from glory to glory!"
+
+[Illustration: 0192]
+
+[Illustration: 0194]
+
+
+
+
+ROUND ABOUT SOME INDUSTRIAL, CENTRES.
+
+[Illustration: 0195]
+
+|IT is not to the manufacturing districts of England that the traveller
+in search of the picturesque would most naturally repair. To him they
+are often a region of tall chimneys and squalid-looking habitations,
+with a canopy of smoke above and black refuse of coal and iron on the
+banks of polluted rivers below. Something of this impression is due to
+the economy of railway companies, which, for the most part, have chosen
+to enter great towns by their least attractive suburbs, where land is
+cheapest. Hence, it is not from the carriage-windows of the train that
+Leeds or Sheffield, Wolverhampton, Birmingham, or Manchester should be
+judged. The traveller who will alight and explore may find a wealth of
+natural beauty which would astonish him.
+
+Nowhere, perhaps, is the contrast--due chiefly, no doubt, to geological
+structure--more apparent than on the edge of the "Black Country"
+in Staffordshire. From Dudley Castle the views are more curiously
+contrasted than in almost any other part of England. By night the whole
+country is lighted up on one side by the flames from the furnaces, which
+cover the country for many miles. By day the din of hammers and
+the clank of wheels, the roar of traffic and the shriek of the
+steam-whistles surge up, through the pall of smoke, upon the ear.
+Descend, and between the ironworks and coalpits the ground is unsightly
+with refuse heaps, while its frequent inequalities, and the bending,
+tottering buildings, show it to be honeycombed with mines. Vegetation
+is rare; what there is, is blackened and stunted; black also are the
+outsides of churches, chapels, schools. For inhabitants of such a
+district to gain any sense of natural beauty, they must be able at
+frequent intervals to escape; and, happily, to do this is within the
+reach of most. Railway communication with every part of England is
+constant and easy; and to know the difference that a few miles' journey
+will make in the scene, one has only to reascend to Dudley Castle, where
+it lies in the midst of its fair wooded domain.. Look from it to the
+north, east, or south, and all is smoke and flame; but turn to the west,
+and though the traces of unresting labour are still discernible, they
+soon give way to a country of richly diversified charm: glimpses are
+obtained of the beautiful valley of the Severn, the Wrekin towers
+grandly not many miles away, and the Malvern hills are dim and blue in
+the distance.
+
+In other manufacturing centres, if the contrast is not so marked, yet
+there is a similar accessibility to many a sequestered and lovely scene.
+The nearness of the wildest and grandest Derbyshire scenery to busy,
+unromantic Manchester has been pointed out in a previous chapter; and
+the neighbourhood of the great Yorkshire centres of industry is full of
+picturesque beauty. A little way out of Leeds, for instance, where the
+Liverpool Canal passes over an embankment near to the river Aire, may
+be found the scene of one of Turner's most charming sketches; and though
+the locality bears evident marks of the great industrial invasion, much
+of the beauty still remains. In the same valley, not far off, are the
+stately ruins of Kirkstall Abbey, while the broad reach of river that
+encloses it, and the green meadows on the bank, with the low wooded
+heights on either side of the valley, suggest the memories of a day when
+the surroundings of the old ecclesiastical building were such as the
+monks most dearly loved; while Esholt Hall, some few miles higher up
+the river, at the extremity of a noble avenue of elm trees, was, in
+its time, a nunnery on low-lying ground, circled by an amphitheatre of
+hills, in a vale even now rich and beautiful, and which once must have
+seemed the very abode of tranquillity and peace.
+
+It is, indeed, no small boon to the artizans of Leeds, Bradford, and
+many other crowded hives of industry in this part of England, that they
+are within so easy a distance of scenes which, in natural beauty, may
+vie with almost any in the land. Ivirkstall, as we have said, is close
+by the former town; and its grounds are thronged on every holiday by
+busy workers, who, whether intent or not on learning the appropriate
+lesson from the mouldering walls and tower, are at least fully alive to
+the advantages of fresh air, and of wide scope and range for healthful
+amusement. The like may be said of other places, lying only a little
+further off. There is Roundhay Park, for instance, one of the most
+splendid domains in England, now, through the wise liberality of the
+Leeds Corporation, the property of the people; while the public parks
+of many other towns, as Bradford, Halifax, Barnsley, with Manchester,
+Liverpool, Blackburn, gratify not only the instinct for recreation, but
+the desire for beauty.
+
+[Illustration: 0197]
+
+Or again, our traveller, in his pause at Leeds, may take the opportunity
+of visiting Ilkley, with its fine open moorland, where the brain-wearied
+worker may range at will. Then, a little way beyond Ilkley, lie the fair
+woods and noble heights encircling Bolton Abbey, where the Wharfe comes
+down, as yet unpolluted, from the moorland beyond; while the form of the
+White Doe of Rylstone, or the memory of the ill-fated heir of Egremont,
+seems yet to haunt the scene.
+
+A little further again, our astonished friend comes upon a _Clapham
+Junction_, but it is amid the silence of the hills! Ingleborough, with
+its marvellous caves, too little known, with its companion heights,
+Pen-y-gant and Whernside, rise from the valley: and every path is full
+of beauty, especially that which leads into the heart of Craven, where
+bold limestone scars, deep glens, and upland moors, with one deep,
+lonely tarn, dear alike to dreamers and to anglers, yield a succession
+of pictures, of which, among their many charms, not the least is their
+easy accessibility from the neighbourhood of clanking mills and inky
+streams. For Ilkley, Bolton, Harrogate, Craven, Clapham may all be
+reached by the busy worker of Leeds or Bradford, and much of their
+beauty enjoyed, in the leisure of a summer Saturday afternoon, or on a
+"Bank holiday." He who would be free from excursionists, with their loud
+talk, their demonstrative ways, their baskets and their bottles, must go
+another time; but even in those holiday-hours there is much to interest.
+The "trippers" may be an interruption to the dreamer, an annoyance to
+the sensitive; but it is good that people whose lives are usually so
+hard-pressed and monotonous should have the means of ennobling enjoyment
+within easy reach; and though occasionally there may be an element of
+roughness or even intemperance in the recreation, we should be unjust
+were we not to record our impression, from what we have often seen,
+that there is a decided improvement in these respects, and that the free
+access to hill and moor, to fine scenery and pure air, has its part in
+checking those vices which spring up like evil weeds in the unwholesome
+dwellings of a crowded population.
+
+[Illustration: 0198]
+
+The "Excursion Season," no doubt, has its drawbacks in Lancashire,
+Yorkshire, London, and everywhere else. There are holidays that depress
+rather than invigorate: the spirit of self-indulgence may adopt the
+pretext of needed recreation, and the Lord's day is too often heedlessly
+or wilfully disregarded; but on the whole it is good that God's fair
+world should be thrown open to all who can enjoy its beauties; and that,
+as we have seen, some of its richest beauties should lie at the very
+threshold of the hardest workers in the most unromantic scenes.
+
+[Illustration: 8199]
+
+The topic is almost inexhaustible; and the selection of places to be
+visited in reasonable time, from these "centres of industry," would be
+invidious to make. A little way beyond Leeds, as every one knows, lies
+Harrogate, the high table-land where medicinal waters have for long
+generations given to the place the fame of a true "city of Hygeia,"
+while we ourselves would still give the chief credit to the
+invigorating, stimulating air, and to the almost inexhaustible interest
+of the neighbourhood, occupying the mind of the visitor with a round of
+healthful delights. The visit to Studley Park and Fountains Abbey
+will probably rank among the chief of these. Again, as in the cases of
+Kirkstall and Bolton, reverting to the past, we admire the taste and
+wisdom shown by the cowled brotherhoods in mediaeval times, in their
+choice of dwelling-places. Something, indeed, of the beauty which we now
+see may have been the result of their assiduous culture. It was part
+of their work to "make the wilderness to smile;" but they had a rare
+faculty for lighting upon scenes which, if not already beautiful,
+possessed an evident capability for becoming so. At Fountains
+both nature and art seem to vie with each other; and in the modern
+arrangement of the domain, the art may occasionally be the more
+apparent. The artistic yields to the artificial; the ruins have been
+maintained at the due stage of picturesqueness by careful oversight and
+repair; and the carefully prepared "surprise," which awaits the visitor
+at one stage of his progress through the grounds, is too theatrical to
+permit even one of the fairest of pictures to have its full effect. But,
+perhaps, all this is hypercritical, and, with every deduction, this old
+Cistercian abbey is one of the most beautiful, as it is one of the most
+complete mediaeval monastic buildings in England. The tower, unlike that
+of its sister abbey at Kirkstall, is little impaired by the ravages
+of time, the plan of the edifice is easy to be traced; and the light
+pillars and lofty arches of the Ladye Chapel give to the whole a
+finishing touch of stateliness and grace. Then how pleasant to wander
+through the noble avenues of Studley, to gaze upwards to the gigantic
+spruce firs, or to climb the mound where linger the decaying forms of
+the rugged yew trees--remnants, it is said, of the "seven sisters" that
+spread their shade over the founders of the abbey, more than six hundred
+years ago!
+
+[Illustration: 9200]
+
+Still pursuing our way northwards, we reach the country of the Yorkshire
+Dales, where the Swale, passing by Richmond, the Tees, on the edge of
+Durham, and many smaller streams, descend from the eastern slope of the
+Westmoreland moors. Both abound in wild and charming scenery: the upper
+Tees-dale especially is singularly impressive. The river runs in
+its deep rocky bed through alpine-looking green meadows, with clean
+whitewashed cottages scattered here and there. Trees there are few or
+none, except a small kind of fir; and in place of hedges, low stone
+walls mark the boundaries of the fields. About five or six miles
+below its source, there forms the striking waterfall "High Force,"
+tumbling over a black basaltic precipice, fifty feet high; while yet
+higher up the stream, where it issues from a gloomy tarn on the edge
+of the Westmoreland moors, descending for some two hundred feet over a
+steep, irregular staircase, so to speak, of basalt, the weird wildness
+of the scene, in the midst of its hilly amphitheatre, approaches
+sublimity. Caldron Snout is the quaint name of this unique rapid, and
+the curious in geology, as well as the lover of the picturesque, will be
+well repaid by a visit.
+
+But by this time we have wandered some distance from our manufacturing
+centres. If, however, we have left the Yorkshire district behind, we are
+approaching the yet more black and busy coal districts.
+
+[Illustration: 0201]
+
+Teesdale itself has two sets of associations, and the same stream, whose
+rocks and dales are so romantic in its earlier course, becomes, by
+the time it reaches Stockton, a broad and inky flood, and so passes
+by Middlesborough--that wonderfully progressive seat of the iron
+manufacture--to the sea. We now pass on from town to town along the
+coast, each busier, blacker than the last, but with glimpses of rich
+beauty between, while the city of Durham, as seen from the rail, is one
+of the noblest views of rock and river, cathedral, castle, and town, on
+which the traveller's eye has ever rested. This river is the Weir;
+then the Tyne is reached, and Newcastle, the "capital of the north," is
+entered over its splendid High-Level Bridge.
+
+We can imagine no better route for a pedestrian excursion than the way
+from Denton Hall to Thirlwall Castle--about thirty-four miles; or, if
+the tourist wishes to see the whole, let him put Dr. Bruce's Condensed
+Guide and an Ordnance map into his knapsack, devote a week to the
+exploration, and proceed by leisurely stages from Wallsend, on the Tyne,
+to Bowness, on the Solway, a distance of seventy-three miles and a half.
+
+But our chief object in visiting these great centres of industry is to
+explore their neighbourhoods. Few towns in England are better worth a
+prolonged visit than Newcastle-upon-Tyne; but its attraction to us now
+is, that we can, at so short a distance from its busy streets, place
+ourselves amid rural scenes of surpassing interest, as well on their own
+account as for their historical associations.
+
+[Illustration: 0202]
+
+First and foremost, of course, there is the Roman Wall, with its long
+line of remains, still magnificent, and so varied from place to place,
+while the scenery that surrounds them is so striking, that sea to sea
+classic ground.
+
+[Illustration: 0203]
+
+A stranger might suppose that, after the lapse of long centuries, all
+these works, granting their existence once, must have disappeared. It is
+not so: save in the western portion, there is scarcely an acre without
+distinct traces; in many places all the lines sweep on together, parts
+in wondrous preservation; while many of the recent excavations present
+structures several feet high, giving one the idea of works in progress,
+so fresh that we are tempted to think of the builders as away but for an
+hour, perhaps to the noonday meal. To traverse the line of the wall is
+to pass along one continuous platform, whence the visitor revels in a
+succession of glorious panoramas.
+
+Returning to the busy east coast, very charming is the transition from
+the Tyne to the Coquet, loveliest of Northumbrian streams, as it flows
+down, interesting glimpses into the past opened up at every stage. Few
+persons, indeed, who have not visited the scene, have any notion of the
+variety and value of the remains which have withstood the wear and tear
+of sixteen centuries, during a great part of which period the wall was
+used as a quarry by the dwellers in the district.
+
+[Illustration: 8203]
+
+In many places the traveller, especially if aided by some competent
+guide, may discern the whole outline of the structure. It consisted
+of seven parts, viz., the Roman Wall proper, comprising ditch on the
+extreme northern side; (1) the military road; then the earthwork,
+consisting of (2) a wall; then (3) a space more or less wide from
+thirty feet to half-a-mile, middle of vallum, along of (4) a mound, or
+rampart, the largest of three; (5) a second ditch; (6) another mound,
+the smallest; and (7) yet another mound. The following section exhibits
+all in one view. Nor is this all, at every three or four miles we have
+fortified camps of several acres each, at every mile a castle, and
+between the castles watch-towers. Moreover, there are roads and bridges,
+traces of villas, gardens, and burial-places, making almost every inch
+from Thirlmoor, on the verge of the Cheviots, at the foot of heathery
+hills and through richly wooded vales, to Rothbury--already a famous
+place of resort from the district, and evidently destined to become
+more frequented from its surpassing beauty of situation, encircled by
+romantic hills, with the bright river running swiftly between.
+
+[Illustration: 0204]
+
+Thence the Coquet descends in many a winding by scenes of the richest
+sylvan loveliness to Warkworth, renowned for its hermitage, which is
+still, as the old Percy ballad describes it, "deep hewn within a craggy
+cliff, and overhung with wood." And so we reach the sea, where Coquet
+Island, with its lighthouse, lies amid the gleaming waters, scarcely
+suggesting, as we gaze upon it in the fair sunshine, how terribly the
+storm sometimes there rages, or how those dark rocks are chafed by the
+angry billows!
+
+But for the full splendour of cliff and ocean scenery we journey still
+a little northward, and come to Dunstanborough Castle. Here a dark ridge
+of basalt rises in pillared form sheer from the sea, and in the words of
+Alarmion, "the whitening breakers," surging with ceaseless thunder into
+the caves which pierce the cliffs, "sound near,"
+
+     "As boiling through the rocks they roar
+     On Dunstanborough's caverned shore."
+
+[Illustration: 0205]
+
+The view from the "Lilburn's Tower" in this ruined castle, commanding
+landwards the broad purple moors, extending in many an undulation to the
+rounded Cheviots, glimmering blue in the distance, and looking seawards
+over the restless ocean, beating ever at the foot of the black columns,
+while sea-birds are ceaselessly wheeling in mid air with shrill
+outcries, not unfairly vies with the wild magnificence of Tintagel, as
+described in our earlier pages.
+
+The two coast scenes are, perhaps, unequalled in the British Islands:
+the difference is that, while the Cornish scene lies in far-away
+seclusion, this of Northumberland is close by one of the chief lines of
+traffic, and within accessible distance of crowded populations. Yet even
+Cornwall is a great industrial centre. Its mining industries are never
+far away from us. Its wildest cliffs are pierced by shafts and adits
+leading down, as in the Botallack Mine, to labyrinthine passages far
+under the bed of the sea, where the miners can hear overhead the rush of
+the waves and the grinding together of the huge boulders.
+
+We have now reached the limit of our purpose, which was to show how near
+to the doors of the million is some of the most striking scenery of
+our land. Else from Dunstanborough Castle we could have pursued our way
+northwards at least as far as Bamborough Castle, not so much for the
+sake of admiring its noble ramparts and towers--once a fortress, now a
+temple of charity--or of gazing again upon the glories of cliff and sea,
+as of looking out across the waters to those rocky isles which, in our
+own time, have witnessed one of those deeds of unconscious heroism which
+do honour to our nature. For it was from one of those sea-beaten crags
+that, on the 5th of September, 1838, Grace Darling set forth upon her
+errand of mercy amid the raging waters, to rescue the survivors of the
+shipwrecked Forfarshire. "Her musical name," it has been said, "is the
+burden of a beautiful story of that love of man which is the love of
+Christ translated into human language and deeds." Four years after that
+great exploit the brave and gentle maiden died of consumption, brought
+on, it is said, by a visit to her brother, keeper of the lighthouse on
+Coquet Island: but she has left among our island race an imperishable
+name. Let us conclude these random rovings by a visit to her monument
+in Bamborough churchyard. Her figure lies as it were in slumber, an oar
+upon her shoulder, beneath a Gothic canopy, within sight and hearing of
+the waves. On the bright day of our visit the waves were murmuring and
+sparkling far below: the craggy islets in the distance were touched with
+sunlight, and we turned away, reminded less of the heroism that braved
+the storm, than of the heavenly home and the everlasting rest. "I saw
+a new heaven and a new earth, for the first heaven and the first earth
+were passed away; and there was no more sea."
+
+[Illustration: 0206]
+
+
+
+
+SNOWDONIA AND SOUTH WALES.
+
+|Some of the holiday excursions which live most pleasantly in memory,
+are those short "runs" of three or four days, to the mountain or the
+sea, which, it may be, some unexpected holiday has enabled us to take,
+or some "happy thought" has suggested as likely to be beneficial to mind
+and body. The amount of enjoyment that can be compressed into so brief
+a space of time is quite wonderful, provided only the place of visit be
+wisely chosen, the days long, and the weather suitable.
+
+In one such little tour, so full of interest that it is hard to believe
+it to have extended only from Tuesday morning to Friday afternoon, we,
+some years ago, made our first acquaintance with Snowdon. Starting from
+Caernarvon before breakfast, we walked to Llanberis, by a road leading
+gradually upwards beside a wild mountain torrent, till the lake from
+which it issues was reached, and the impression of the mountain grandeur
+first fully felt.
+
+The ascent of Snowdon has been so often described, that we need only say
+it was unexpectedly easy. The beauty of the path with which it began, up
+the bank of a mountain torrent ending in a strange and lovely waterfall,
+beguiled the first portion of the way, and the latter part opened up
+continually such glorious views, that the fatigue was lightened, if the
+progress was a little impeded, by long pauses of admiration. At length
+we reached Moel-y-Wyddfa, "the far-seen summit," and were upon the
+highest spot in England and Wales.
+
+[Illustration: 0208]
+
+[Illustration: 0209]
+
+Of the near prospect the chief wonder, to us, was the number of lakes,
+or llyns, visible. For this we were unprepared, and the endlessly
+diversified outline of these gleaming pools contrasted strikingly with
+the dark mountain masses amid which they lay. The distant views were at
+first very clear--Skiddaw (so said our guide) in the north, the Isle of
+Man in the west, appearing like a shadow on a sunlit sea, Cader Idris
+and Plinlimmon in the south, with the valleys lying green among the
+hills, and here and there the line of some sparkling stream, while the
+habitations of man were dwarfed to insignificance, or indicated only by
+dim patches, as of smoke hanging in the air. Suddenly a chilling breeze
+passed across the mountain top, and we were glad to find shelter in one
+of the little huts which crown--we will not say adorn--the peak. As
+the mists now began to gather, it was judged time to descend. The path,
+little more than eight feet wide, lay along one of the narrowest spurs
+of the mountain, while on both sides are tremendous precipices. To walk
+over this path in clear, calm weather would be a trial to the nerves;
+but now the mists were seething and whirling below, ever and anon
+rapidly parting, so as to disclose glimpses of bare rocks apparently
+rising out of an ocean of cloud, or miniature meadows of sunny green
+at unknown depths, or, strangest of all, leaden-coloured lakelets, each
+enclosed by its bank of fog. It was a weird scene, and though the path
+itself was tolerably free from mist, the sight of these abysses on
+either hand, suggesting the consequences of a slip, kept us all very
+quiet, very wary in our steps; and we were thankful when we reached the
+point where the mountain spur expands into a broad, safe, though steep
+and rugged, hill. Here we descended swiftly, and soon found ourselves
+upon the turnpike road to Beddgelert, our destination.
+
+This level dell, set in the midst of mountains, which rise on all sides,
+clothed at their base with rich woods, and then towering upwards,
+bare and rugged against the sky, surpassed all our expectations by the
+magnificence of its environment. The faithful hound, so well known in
+the stories of many lands, has here a tomb, in the very midst of the
+valley, overhung by a group of willows. Perhaps the legend is but a
+myth; it exists, we are told, in Persian, and in the dialects of India.
+The story as it stands is not only affecting, but contains a noble
+lesson; and it was in no sceptical spirit that we read Southey's fine
+ballad over again, at the traditionary scene of the incident. We ended
+the day by a stroll up to Pont Aberglaslyn, that most romantic of
+defiles, the only defect of which is, that it is too short. The road
+leads on one side by the "blue torrent," which dashes through the pass
+with headlong, tremendous force; on the other by towering mountain
+sides, clothed with lichen and a scanty covering of mosses and shrubs. A
+marked feature in these rocks is the evident trace of glacier action,
+to which Dr. Buckland has called attention by a memorandum in his
+own handwriting, framed and glazed, in the hotel. The bridge at the
+extremity of the pass, carrying the old road to Tan-y-bwlch, has been
+thus described by Miss Costello: "There, forty feet above the river,
+hangs in air apparently, just touching the two mountains, a one-arched
+bridge, clothed with a robe of ivy, whose festoons wave to and fro, as
+if the action of her leap had disturbed the drapery of some nymph, whose
+form had hardened into stone as she performed the wondrous feat. Below,
+beyond, around, the waters rave and foam and rush, and here for the
+first time I recognised the beautiful colour, familiar to my eye in the
+Pyrenees, which has given the name of the 'Blue Pool' to this lovely
+spot." The scene was one in which to rest and muse after the exertions
+and excitements of the morning; the only disturbance of the quiet being
+the pertinacity of the little sellers of spar and rock fragments, or
+these failing, of woollen socks, with equal readiness to sing us a
+song, if no purchasers could be found for their other wares! It must in
+fairness be added that the song was "sweet and low," and harmonised well
+with the now gathering twilight, and the sound of rushing waters.
+
+[Illustration: 0211]
+
+The next day's expedition must be more briefly narrated. Somewhat tired
+by the mountain climbing, we were content with a quiet walk up Nant
+Gwynant, descending by the eastern half of the Pass of Llanberis to
+Cape! Curig, and thence, beside the river Lugwy, to Bettws-y-Coed. Two
+lakes, passed soon after leaving Beddgelert, are of the most exquisite
+beauty, and the views of Snowdon, opened up a little beyond them, are of
+splendour unsurpassed.
+
+Reaching Pen-y-gwryd a little below the head of the Llanberis Pass, we
+pursued a route of a totally different character to Capel Curig. For the
+luxuriant beauty of Nant Gwynant we had now the sublimity of bare rock
+and crag; but there was something, we must suppose, uncongenial with our
+mood in the bleakness of the scene; at any rate, this part of the pass
+disappointed us. We have since found that the true grandeur of the
+defile is in the other, or western part, between Pen-y-gwryd and
+Llanberis. The rest at Capel Curig was specially welcome, and thence
+there was no want of interest in the route, on the bank of the romantic
+Lugwy. The Swallow waterfall must by all means be visited, repelled as
+is the true lover of nature by all those little arrangements that make
+the place a show--the urchin who points out the locked gate, for fear
+it should be missed, the keen-eyed dame with the keys, the guide to the
+torrent s brink, apparently solicitous lest any visitor should discover
+for himself the chief points of view, the miscellaneous guard of
+children, with a general expectancy of coppers.
+
+[Illustration: 0214]
+
+All this we did not like; and yet nothing could well be finer than the
+plunge of the river, with roar and foam, over the vast mass of rocks,
+slanting in rugged, picturesque confusion from the summit to the foot
+of the fall, and breaking the stream in its descent into numberless
+cascades and tiny rapids. The picture is one of marvellous diversity,
+and when the river is swollen by rain the rush and roar are tremendous.
+
+Our day's journey was nearly over, and another hours walk, or a little
+mure, brought us to that "paradise of painters," the Royal Oak at Bettws
+y-Coed. Happily there was room for us, though the inn seemed crowded by
+artists--many of them men of world-wide reputation--who come again and
+again to this fair valley, always to find something new in form or
+colour, light or shade. The next day was spent in rambling about the
+neighbourhood; and almost everywhere we found artists at work with easel
+and umbrella. Pont-y-pair was to us as an old friend, so often had we
+seen its semblance in exhibition-rooms and books of "landscape scenery."
+Few subjects, indeed, could be more adapted to the painter.
+
+[Illustration: 0215]
+
+But if this bridge, with its many lovely points of view, struck us with
+a sense of familiarity, we were startled, as well as delighted, by the
+exceeding beauty of the Fairies' Glen. A tributary stream here comes
+down to the Lugwy between high wooded banks, and over mossy rocks, which
+at many points can easily be crossed; the course of the rapid crystal
+stream for a long distance is almost straight, and the perspective from
+below is singularly fine.
+
+The holiday, rich as it had been in delights, was now almost over, and
+the last day was mainly spent in a water excursion, which a railway,
+since constructed, has rendered less familiar, but which even yet we
+venture to commend. The pretty little town of Llanrwst being passed, we
+pursued a pleasant road between the river Conway on one side and bosky
+cliffs on the other, as far as Trefriw, where a small steamer was
+waiting the turn of the tide to proceed down the river to Conway town.
+The sail on a fine day is one of the most charming of excursions, the
+scenery on both sides being of much interest, and the quiet rest on
+board the steamer being very agreeable after three days' walking and
+climbing.
+
+[Illustration: 0216]
+
+From Trefriw, we were told, a very short excursion, up to Llyn
+Geirionydd, would have brought us to one of the very finest points of
+view in all North Wales, the range of Snowdon, and the scarcely less
+imposing Moel Siabod, being thence seen in all their majesty. But it is
+always at once a regret and an alleviation, in leaving beautiful scenes,
+that much is left unvisited--regret that so many fair scenes have been
+missed, alleviation, because the very fact may form so good a reason
+some day for revisiting the place! As it was, with some time at our
+disposal after reaching Conway, we visited the splendid ruins of the
+castle, then went by rail to Llandudno, and after a hasty glance at the
+promenade by the bay, finished the memorable four days' visit to Wales
+by a bracing walk of six miles, round the Great Orme's Head on the path
+overlooking the sea.
+
+The holiday had been so successful, that on the next similar opportunity
+it occurred to us to spend the few days at command in South Wales. We
+are bound, however, to confess that the charm was felt to be inferior.
+
+Possibly we expected another Snowdonia, and so deserved to be
+disappointed. Nature does not repeat herself, and though the heights
+of Plinlimmon are commanding when attained, we do not recommend the
+traveller whose time is precious to traverse the intolerably circuitous
+path, amid bogs and morasses, which leads him wearily at last to the
+summit. The fresh breeze, and the wide prospect from the mountain's
+top are, to some extent, a compensation for the toil; while it is
+interesting to explore the sources of some of the many rivers which
+descend from the mighty store of waters embosomed in this hill--the
+Severn and the Wye being chief. But the longing for the beautiful was
+unsatisfied until we reached Pont-y-Mynach, the Monk's P>ridge; better
+known, perhaps, as "the Devil's Bridge." The former name denotes the
+fact that the monks of Strata Florida Abbey constructed the bridge:
+the latter, we suppose, expresses the simple wonder of the rustics, who
+could not conceive the daring work as wrought by any power less than
+supernatural. Why should they have taken for granted that the power was
+evil? We presume that the explanation is to be found in the sense of
+terror excited by the fury and the roar of the torrent. There is an awe
+akin to joy: a solemn yet glad uplifting of the soul, as at the sight
+of the starry heavens; and who could attribute the splendours of the
+firmament to any but a beneficent Creator? But amid the wilder scenes
+of this earth, there is not only the mere feeling of danger, but a dread
+which oppresses the spirit--a "fear that hath torment,"--an instinctive
+sense of sin, which has led men in such localities to imagine a
+_malignant_ spirit at work.
+
+A little way beyond the bridge are the falls of the Rheidol--a series
+of cascades, perhaps the most picturesque in Wales, not from the mass of
+water so much as from the magnificence of the narrow, rocky ravine, with
+its wealth of foliage. Perhaps the charms of this fair glen, with the
+comforts of the splendidly-placed hotel above, were heightened by the
+recollection of the long morning among the morasses of Plinlimmon; but
+our feeling as we sat at eventide watching the sunset, and listening
+to the roar of waters, was to surrender all the rest of our brief
+excursion, and to give ourselves there to the _dolce far niente_ of
+three long summer days!
+
+South Wales is so conveniently intersected with railways, that it
+is almost too easy for the tourist to pass from point to point. The
+preceding day, on a south-easterly slope of Plinlimmon, we had stood at
+the source of the Wye, and the desire possessed us to trace the progress
+of that river for awhile, to see if in its early meanderings it had
+the beauty which we knew so well to belong to it in its later and more
+familiar course. The excursion was not a disappointing one. It leads
+through some of the most primitive of Welsh districts: Builth, which in
+due time we reached, appeared quaint and attractive, and Talgarth,
+where our long walk was finished, might have tempted us, under other
+circumstances, to a longer stay, to explore the "Black Mountains," a
+wonderfully fine range of hills, girt with woods, pierced by lovely
+glens, and extending in ranges of lofty moorland for many miles.
+
+[Illustration: 8218]
+
+A short railway journey now brought us to Brecon, so nobly placed in the
+midst of its mountain amphitheatre as to invite a longer stay: but we
+had to hurry on, anxious to reach the far-famed Vale of Neath. A very
+wild walk led upwards for many weary miles, as it seemed, from Brecon to
+Maen Llia, the "Llia Stone," near which is the source of the Llia, one
+of the streams whose confluence form the Neath. Descending rapidly, we
+soon came to the point where the Llia is joined from the north-east by
+the Dringarth, another confluent.
+
+[Illustration: 9218]
+
+At Y-strad-fellte, a little further on, the glory of the mountain vale
+began to open out. We passed under the shadow of the crags to the
+east, as far as to the spot where, at a break in the rocky rampart, the
+Hepste, another tributary, hurries to meet the stream, forming a fine
+waterfall. At Crag-y-Dinas, a huge limestone rock, commanding from its
+summit both the upper glen and the lower valley as far as Swansea Bay,
+the beauty of the scene is at its height. Hardly any combination
+of scenery could be richer in its exquisite variety. The road
+now lay between these united streams and the Neath proper, which soon
+is joined from the western side by the Pyrrdin, up whose rocky glen we
+turned for the sake of its two charming cascades, the "Lady's" and the
+"Crooked" Fall.
+
+[Illustration: 8219]
+
+In fact, the whole neighbourhood teems with cataracts, many of exceeding
+beauty, and a day might well be spent in exploring the rocky dingles,
+through which the hurrying streams descend, until at Pont-Nedd-fechan,
+"the Little Bridge of Neath," they meet and mingle in one.
+
+The bridge is of one arch, thrown across the ravine near the point of
+confluence; it is festooned with drooping ivy, which almost reaches the
+surface of the stream, and in its secluded loveliness this little Welsh
+Lauterbrunnen, a village of many waters among the hills, may fairly
+compare with many scenes far better known to fame.
+
+The route down the valley to the town of Neath and the port of Briton
+Ferry, is rich in varied beauty. The river runs between the high
+road and the railway, with, in some part of its course, a canal. The
+surrounding hills are lovely in outline and richly wooded; and until
+we reach the seats of industry near the port, the water, lying in long
+reaches, or hurrying over its rocky bed, is crystal-clear. At a former
+time Briton Ferry was lovely beyond almost any other seaside resort.
+The river, here expanded to a noble breadth, flowed between lofty wooded
+cliffs to an open bay. The surrounding hills were crowned with noble
+oaks, and the romantic little village, protected from the north and
+east, had all the attractions not only of its own exceeding beauty, but
+of a mild climate, and of air exceptionally pure. All this is changed!
+
+[Illustration: 0220]
+
+Coal, copper, iron dominate the scene. The cliffs and the climate are
+there, and Swansea Bay is beautiful in calm or storm: but the oaks have
+fallen, the nooks and elens in the hills have become squalid in their
+bareness, the streams are polluted, the air is murky; but the docks are
+admirable, and the place is "rising rapidly." There is a divineness in
+man's industry, as well as in nature's beauty.
+
+     "The old order yieldeth, giving place to new,
+     And God fulfils Himself in many ways."
+
+We hurry away from the coalfields to where Carmarthen stands high on
+Towy bank, grandly overlooking the course of the river to the sea.
+Of the bay named from this ancient capital, the most beautiful part,
+perhaps, is where Tenby, from its rocky promontory, overlooks the sea.
+As we terminated our little tour in North Wales at Llandudno, so here
+at Tenby we bade farewell to the southern part of the Principality. But
+before leaving there was time for one little excursion along the coast,
+superb beyond all our expectation, especially for the first few miles,
+where the mountain limestone fronts the sea with bold, cave-pierced
+cliff. Our ramble terminated at Manor-beer Castle, one of the most
+extensive and complete of feudal fortresses in Great Britain. Perhaps
+there is no ruin of the kind in which the arrangements for residence as
+well as for defence can be so clearly traced, and certainly there are
+few which more nobly command the shore below.
+
+But our brief excursion was over. Some of the most picturesque parts
+of South Wales were, perforce, left unvisited--especially Tintern, that
+loveliest of British abbeys. Yet much had been seen to quicken the sense
+of beauty; while the glimpse of busy industry given us along the south
+coast, had quickened our desire to learn something more of the great
+population gathered by its docks and ports, its mines and furnaces. For
+it is the human interest which, wherever we may travel, must gradually
+become supreme, and nowhere more truly than in South Wales. The heroism
+often manifested in the midst of lowliest toil was never more strikingly
+illustrated than in a recent incident which has made the name of
+Pontypridd a household word in England. All know the story of the
+imprisoned miners, and the men who bravely volunteered to rescue them,
+daring the peril of compressed air, inflammable gas, and the pent-up
+floods of water. "Four men"--let the tale never be forgotten at British
+firesides!--"from one o'clock in the afternoon of Thursday the 19th
+of April, 1877, until three o'clock in the afternoon of the next day,
+worked on amid all these accumulated dangers until the rescue of their
+comrades was complete. Twenty-two others were only second to those four
+men--eleven in taking an actual share in the work of cutting through
+the barrier of coal, and eleven others in constant presence and
+superintendence. It was an intense exercise of self-devotion, patience,
+and deliberate courage--a concentration, as it were, of qualities which
+could only be acquired by the habitual exercise of these qualities in
+every-day life, and perhaps their cultivation through many generations."
+Happily they were successful, and the nation feels it to be but a worthy
+recognition of such heroism, that a new order of merit, instituted to do
+honour to gallantry in saving life on land, has been inaugurated by the
+gift of "the Albert Medal" to those Welsh colliers. Never has decoration
+been better earned! "Not the least satisfaction, however, of those who
+receive it ought to be, that they have been the means of drawing public
+attention and public honour to the whole class of brave and unselfish
+deeds of which they have furnished one of the most conspicuous of
+instances. There are no signs that the struggle of civilisation with
+nature will cease to demand its victims. The progress of mankind still
+depends, and must long depend, upon the bravery and unselfishness with
+which unknown perils are encountered; and, perhaps, as science opens up
+further fields of experiment and investigation, still bolder adventures
+may be demanded. It was but right that the stamp of national honour
+should be formally placed upon all such deeds; and the Welsh miners
+deserve the thanks, not merely of their comrades, but of their country,
+for having established in public esteem a new and permanent order of
+merit." *
+
+     * _The Times_, August 8, 1877.
+
+[Illustration: 0222]
+
+
+
+
+THE ISLE OF WIGHT.
+
+[Illustration: 0224]
+
+[Illustration: 0225]
+
+|SIR Walter Scott somewhere speaks of the Isle of Wight as a "beautiful
+island, which he who once sees never forgets, through whatever part of
+the wide world his future path may lead him." Whether this description
+be over-coloured or no, it is certain that there is hardly any spot of
+English ground so well adapted for a ramble of three or four days. There
+cannot be a more charming excursion than a cruise round "the Island,"
+as inhabitants of the neighbouring counties fondly call it, when the
+atmosphere is clear, and light breezes stir the water, without raising
+it to roughness. The Solent, with its richly varied shores, and its
+flotilla of white-sailed yachts, is first traversed: then round the
+Needles we meet the open sea, gazing as we pass by at the quaint, almost
+grotesque, forms of those pointed chalk pillars, the evident relics of
+cliffs worn away by the action of the sea. Scratchell's Bay, with its
+chalk precipices, is passed; and other bays, with their richly coloured,
+variegated sands, excite new interest and wonder. Then the Chines,
+or ravines in the cliff, diversify the outline; and so we reach the
+Undercliffe, that line of coast, whose perfect protection from the
+winter's cold, with the fresh purity of the sea-breeze, render it almost
+unique as a residence for the consumptive. Niton at one extremity,
+and Ventnor and Bonchurch at the other, with the five miles between,
+offering a succession of views unsurpassed in beauty. "The beautiful
+places," writes Lord Jeffrey, "are either where the cliffs sink deep
+into bays and valleys, opening like a theatre to the sun and the sea, or
+where there has been a terrace of low land formed at their feet, which
+stretches under the shelter of that enormous wall like a rich garden
+plot, all roughened over with masses of rock fallen in distant ages, and
+overshadowed with thickets of myrtle and rose and geranium, which all
+grow wild here in great luxuriance and profusion."
+
+[Illustration: 0226]
+
+After leaving Bonchurch, Shanklin Chine, Sandown Bay, terminated on
+the north by the magnificent chalk headland called Culver Cliff, or
+the Cliff of the White Dove, terminate the most beautiful part of this
+little voyage. After rounding one or two more headlands, Ryde comes into
+sight, and loyal travellers begin to look out for Whipping-ham church
+tower, and the woods and palace of Osborne; soon after passing which
+Cowes is reached, and the excursion is over.
+
+[Illustration: 9226]
+
+The interior of the island has many points of interest, but three or
+four days are sufficient for their exploration. A most interesting
+excursion is that to Newport and Carisbrooke Castle, so closely
+connected with the annals of Charles I. The visitor to Blackgang Chine
+will probably come to the conclusion that this and similar fissures
+in the chalk cliffs have been extolled beyond their deserts. There are
+combes in Devonshire, unknown to fame, far superior to either Blackgang
+or Shanklin, and at the latter especially, the elaborate artificiality
+of the whole scene is a little repellant, while the celebrated waterfall
+is commonly but a trickling rill. Blackgang is finer as a chasm, but the
+cascade is equally insignificant. The charm of "the Island" is, after
+all, in the climate, the colouring, and the glorious sea.
+
+[Illustration: 0227]
+
+Few walks of richer or more luxuriant beauty can be found within the
+same compass than that from Blackgang Chine to Ventnor. First we reach
+the Sandrock Spring, a chalybeate fountain in a cliff; the water, it
+is said, contains alum and iron in an unexampled proportion. There is a
+cottage, hard by, displaying a few tumblers, but customers do not seem
+to be many. As a spa, Sandrock is too plainly a failure; and for real
+invigoration to health and spirits, we would rather try the pure ozone
+on the summit of St. Catherine's Cliff, than imbibe any quantity of
+the chalybeate. Let the visitor stay long and inhale the glorious
+sea-breeze. He will indeed have pure air below, that is, unless the
+breezes, as is their wont sometimes, are stirring the chalk in dust
+clouds--a kind of white simoom!
+
+[Illustration: 9228]
+
+But at the best, the air of the Undercliffe is soft and languid,
+suggestive to the robust of delicate lungs; while yet those who are thus
+afflicted cannot be too thankful for a shelter where the atmosphere is
+as mild as it is pure, and the scene at every point, by land and sea,
+most beautiful.
+
+We descend from St. Catherine's down to Niton, and thence pursue our way
+by Puckaster and Mirables Lawrence, where the church was once accounted
+the smallest in England (twelve by twenty feet in the interior), but is
+now enlarged by the addition of a chancel.
+
+"Improvement" has been direfully at work since first we visited this
+little village and drank of the cool waters of "St. Lawrence's Well."
+The white, well-kept road is more level than the old picturesque path;
+instead of ivied cottages there are now shining villas with green
+blinds, walls for hedgerows, and, worst of all, the gushing spring flows
+somewhere in an inclosure to which there seems no access. It is a pity
+to have thus modernised so rustic and lovely a spot. But the flowers are
+still there, perfuming the air; and the myrtles and the fuchsias are not
+shrubs, but trees, and the luxuriance of southern climes surrounds us.
+As we walk along we speculate on the convulsions of nature that have
+prepared for us this little paradise. The undulating ground at our feet
+is evidently formed of vast masses of chalk and clay, which, at former
+periods, have broken bodily from the face of the cliff, slipped forward,
+and sunk down. The surface, disintegrated by aqueous and atmospheric
+action, has formed a kind of irregular terrace, the soil of which is
+most favourable to vegetation. The ground is now firm, the process
+of disintegration from above seems almost arrested; but there are even
+yet memories of landslips on a large scale, of which the traces are
+still visible.
+
+[Illustration: 0229]
+
+There is one walk in the island which no tolerable pedestrian should
+omit--that from Newport to Freshwater, or Alum Bay. Leaving the main
+road at Carisbrooke, a footpath leads upwards through fields richly
+cultivated and gay with wild flowers. The open down which forms the
+backbone of the island is soon reached. Keeping along the ridge the
+tourist will for some miles enjoy a scene almost unique in its beauty.
+The soft delicate curves and undulations which characterise the chalk
+downs, and which the unobservant traveller so often overlooks, may be
+seen in perfection. Nestling in many a sheltered nook are farm-houses,
+hamlets, and churches, embosomed in trees. Patches of fern, gorse, and
+heather diversify the landscape. And far below, on either side, is the
+sea--on the right hand the Solent, on the left the English Channel.
+After a while Freshwater comes into view, with its | line of cliffs
+rising sheer from the waves, and about half-a-mile inland the sheltered
+nook which has been made a classic spot as the home of the Poet
+Laureate. His description of it will be familiar to many readers.
+
+     "Where, far from smoke and noise of town,
+     I watch the twilight falling brown
+     All round a careless ordered garden.
+     Close to the ridge of a noble down.
+     You'll have no scandal while you dine,
+     But honest talk and wholesome wine,
+     And only hear the magpie gossip
+     Garrulous under a roof of pine.
+     For groves of pine on either hand,
+     To break the blast of winter, stand;
+     And further on, the hoary Channel
+     Tumbles a breaker on chalk and sand."
+
+A couple of miles more and we reach Alum Bay and the Needles, spoken of
+on a preceding page.
+
+[Illustration: 9230]
+
+Half a century ago few contributions to our religious literature were
+more widely and deservedly popular than Legh Richmond's "short and
+simple annals of the poor." Though of late years they have lost
+something of their popularity, yet many visitors to the island make
+a pilgrimage to Brading, with which the name of the devout author is
+inseparably connected. The grave of little Jane, the Young Cottager,
+is in the churchyard here: that of the "Dairyman's Daughter," Elizabeth
+Vallbridge, is at Arreton, three or four miles away towards the
+interior.
+
+Here for the present our rambles must end.
+
+[Illustration: 8230]
+
+It is impossible to retrace them without feeling how very beautiful
+England is. Some of her beauties are little known. Others are not
+appreciated as they deserve. Many an obscure and unvisited nook has a
+loveliness or a grandeur or a picturesqueness beyond that of the most
+famous show-places. But the glory of our island is that so many of its
+loveliest spots are associated with the memory of great names and noble
+deeds. The glory of England is in its people; but its people may well,
+in turn, exult and give thanks to God that He has given them so fair and
+splendid a home.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's English Pictures, by Samuel Manning and S. G. Green
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