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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/45059-0.txt b/45059-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..79aff4b --- /dev/null +++ b/45059-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1761 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Notes on Old Peterborough, by Andrew Percival + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Notes on Old Peterborough + + +Author: Andrew Percival + + + +Release Date: March 5, 2014 [eBook #45059] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES ON OLD PETERBOROUGH*** + + +Transcribed from the 1905 Geo. C. Caster edition by David Price, email +ccx074@pglaf.org + + [Picture: Andrew Percival (Taken in the year 1901)] + + May be had bound in Cloth, Price 1/6. + + * * * * * + + + + + + Notes on + Old Peterborough, + + + BY + ANDREW PERCIVAL, S.S.C., + + With Eight Illustrations, + + INCLUDING + + Portrait of the Author. + + Arranged, Published, and Sold by Special Permission + of the Author, + + BY + The PETERBOROUGH ARCHÆOLOGICAL SOCIETY. + + [Picture: Decorative graphic] + + ONE SHILLING. + + [Picture: Decorative graphic] + + PETERBOROUGH: + GEO. C. CASTER, MARKET PLACE. + 1905. + + [_Reprinted from type of the_ “_Peterborough Advertiser_.”] + + + + +PREFACE. + + +The Reminiscences of a Citizen whose memory goes back in detail for over +Seventy Years, as in the case of the Contributor of these Notes, cannot +fail to be of paramount interest and of antiquarian value. Especially in +this case, where the distinguished Narrator has held a very foremost +place in the Professional life and Voluntary Public Service of the City. +Additionally interesting must they prove in the case of a City which has +developed from a comparatively small parish into a populous industrial, +commercial and residential Centre. The Peterborough Archæological +Society has in these circumstances undertaken the duty of preserving and +circulating in compact form the very valuable personal Recollections of +Mr. Andrew Percival. In doing so the Society acknowledges its +indebtedness to that gentleman for his ready permission to entrust them +to its charge. The writer of this Preface was present at the old +Wentworth Rooms, at Peterborough, in the years 1883–4, when the addresses +which formed the basis of this chronicle were delivered. He thus felt a +continuity of interest when the manuscript was recently committed to him +to prepare, with illustrations, for advance publication in the +“Peterborough Advertiser,” in September, 1905, and in bringing up to +date, during the indisposition of the Author, several of the +chronological and statistical references. Otherwise the Notes remain +exactly as set down and corrected by Mr. Percival. The Society expresses +its thanks to Mr. A. C. Taylor for the use of the very excellent photo of +Mr. Percival which forms the frontispiece; to Mr. T. N. Green (Ball & +Co.) for the Photo of the Old Bridge; and to Mr. Geo. C. Caster for the +use of “Whittlesey Mere” block, from “Fenland Notes & Queries”; most of +the others having been specially taken and engraved for this Publication. + + F. L. + +_Peterborough_, _Oct._, _1905_. + + + + +INDEX. + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. {5} + +Portrait of Mr. Andrew Percival Title Page +Peterborough Market Place in 1836 9 +Sedan Chair 19 +Cottages in Paston 20 +The Old Bridge over the Nene 27 +Sexton Barns 29 +Peterborough Market Place in 1795 36 +Map of Whittlesey Mere 47 + + * * * * * + + PAGE. +Advertisement, A peculiar 40 +An Alibi 43 + +Balls 19 +Barns 29, 31 +Beacon, A lighted 22 +Beadle, The City 16 +Breweries 10 +Bridge, The old wooden 27 +Buckle’s Brewery 10, 11 +Burglaries 43 +Burial at Cross Roads 32 +Burial Ground, The Old 34 +Butcher’s Piece, The 41 + +Cabbage Row 31 +Calculating Boy 10 +Castor, Old system of farming at 22 +Cattle Market 33 +Cemetery, The 34 +Coaches, Mail 11, 12, 13 +Constables, Parish 17 +Contrast, A 13 +Cost of Travelling 12 + +Distemper, The 40 +Draining the Great Level 23 + +Epitaphs 35 +Executions 41 +Extraordinary Medley 34 + +Fairs 19 +Fen around Peterborough 23 +Fen Drainage 23, 25 +Fen Taxes 27 +Franking Letters 16 +Frisby’s Feat 12 +Frog Hall 32 + +Gaols 17, 30 +Gas Works started 32 +Gates, Toll 9 +God’s Acre 34 +Guildhall, The 41 + +Hangings 41 +Hostelry, The Thorpe Road 30 + +Infirmary, The 10 +Intelligent Fenmen 27 + +Jaunt through the City 29 + +Ladies and the Cattle 33 +Land, Improvement in value of 27 +Level, The Great 23 +Level, Draining the Great 23 +Lock-up Story 43 + +Mail Coaches 11 +Market, Cattle 33 +,, The old 33 +„ Wednesday 34 +Mere, Whittlesey 19 +Mill, The Old 14, 27, 29 +Mill system of Draining 25 +Mud Case, The 44 + +Nene Outfall, The 25 +Newspapers 38, 39, 40 +Newtown 31 +Notorious Family, A 17 + +Oasis in the Desert 21 + +Packets, River 15 +Parish Constables 17 +Paston 22 +Ponds 31 +Poor House 31 +Poor Law 30 +Post Office 37 +Postal Charges 15 + +Railways 11, 14, 44 +Railways and Earl Fitzwilliam 14 +Retrospective 45 +River Packets 15 +Robbery at the Vicarage 43 + +Sedan Chairs 19 +Sexton Barns 29 +Smothering the Cathedral 14 +Snatched from the Sea 25 + +Tales of the Coaching days 12 +Theatre 17 +Toll Gates 9 +Tombstone Rhymes 35 +Tythe Barn, Boroughbury 31 + +Value of land improved 27 + +Whalley, Mr. G. H. 15 +Whittlesey Mere 19 + + + + +PART THE FIRST. + + +CITY TOLL GATES.—HOW TOLL WAS LEVIED.—THE INFIRMARY.—OLD CITY +BREWERIES.—THE CALCULATING BOY.—STARTING THE RAILWAYS.—FRISBY’S +FEAT.—TALES OF THE COACHING DAYS.—TALLY-HO COACH.—A CONTRAST.—A STORY OF +LORD FITZWILLIAM.—SMOTHERING THE CATHEDRAL.—THE OLD MILL.—SIMPSON’S +PACKET.—MR. WHALLEY’S JOKE.—POSTAL CHARGES.—FRANKING LETTERS.—THE CITY +BEADLE.—PARISH CONSTABLES AND GAOL.—A NOTORIOUS FAMILY.—FAIRS.—CITY +BELLS.—SEDAN CHAIRS.—WHITTLESEY MERE. + +WHEN I came to Peterboro’ in Oct., 1833, I think our population was five +or six thousand. In the month of August I came down to make arrangements +for my being articled to the late Mr. Gates. I was taken charge of by my +father, and protected by my sister, and we drove from Northampton, where +my father was a medical man having an extensive practice, and could only +spare one day. During the night a most extraordinary storm sprang up. +We had to go back during that storm. There was an enormous destruction +of timber on the road between here and Northampton, and in many other +parts of the country. It was a storm such as very seldom rages in these +latitudes in the summer months. In one part of the journey was a great +avenue of trees, a considerable portion of which was destroyed. It was +the property of a worthy squire, and I remember hearing it remarked, “How +much Mr. So-and-So will feel the destruction of his avenue.” “Oh dear +no,” said the person spoken to, “don’t you know that that property is +settled property, and he has no power of cutting timber, and he will be +highly delighted. He thinks the avenue is much improved, as it puts a +very good sum of money into his pocket, which is very welcome to him.” +You see it is an ill wind that blows nobody good. + +[Picture: Peterborough Market Place in the Coaching Days. (From a Print, + 1836). “Peterborough has much altered since those days.”—Andrew + Percival] + +When I got here, the first thing I saw when I looked round the town was +that it was confined by toll bars. There was a toll bar just over the +bridge, where the little house since converted into shops then was. At +the other end of the town, on the Lincoln Road, was another toll bar; on +the Thorney Road was another, and at the back of Westgate another. Our +town had four gates drawn across the four entrances; on the road now +known as Lincoln Road East, then Crawthorne Lane, there was a side bar to +prevent anyone getting out of the town without paying contributions. One +enquired what these meant, because within a mile or two on each of the +main roads you would find another toll bar, at which they duly took toll, +and the only villages that could get into Peterborough without paying +toll were Yaxley, Farcet, and Stanground, as the turnpike road toll on +that road, the old London Road, was near Norman Cross. Otherwise, our +system was so ingeniously contrived that you could not get into or out of +Peterborough without paying town toll at the end of the street, which +were tolls for the pavement. This was rather a peculiar system. I do +not wish to quote Scripture, but you will recollect the enquiry, “Of whom +do the Kings of the earth take tribute? Of their own children or of +strangers, and they said ‘of strangers.’ Then the comment was ‘Then are +the children free!’” + +The system that our forefathers adopted for encouraging communication and +traffic was this: They put a toll on for their pavements, from the +payment of which they exempted themselves, and took it from the strangers +that came into the place. The only exceptions were when the inhabitants +of the place travelled on Sundays. Toll collectors were then authorised +to take toll from them, and also from those who hired vehicles in the +place, the result being if you were an inhabitant of the place, and had +the luck to keep your carriage or gig or wagon, or whatever it was, you +might use the pavement as much as you pleased, and pay nothing. But if +you were a poor person, or could only treat yourself occasionally with +the luxury of a gig, or were obliged to hire a trap for business, yon +were immediately taken toll of. + +The present Hospital or Infirmary was then a private dwelling-house. The +Dispensary which existed then was a small house opposite the Old Burial +Ground, the one now occupied by Mr. Payling, the dentist. After some +years, it was removed from this place to what is now the Police Station +in Newtown. Soon after this, the Earl Fitzwilliam purchased the present +building and presented it to the City, a monument of his appreciation of +the good that had been done in a small way by the existing buildings, and +which, I think, in the present arrangements, fully carried out his +Lordship’s benevolent wishes. + +There were two considerable features of Peterborough which have entirely +disappeared. Where Queen Street and North Street now stand were two +large breweries, known as Buckle’s Brewery and Squires’s Brewery. They +were quite institutions of the place, and it always strikes me as a very +strange thing that they should have entirely disappeared, as one of them +would have been larger than all the breweries now in Peterborough. +Buckles’ Brewery was certainly a very remarkable one, and carried on with +great energy and spirit. There was one peculiarity they had—that some +friends of the partners could assemble on Easter Monday and spend the +afternoon in playing at marbles. I have spent pleasant afternoons there +on Easter Mondays. There were two large tuns or barrels in which the +beer was kept, one of which was called Mrs. Clarke, and the other the +Duke of York, to perpetuate a scandal at the time when they were +constructed. A very hospitable time always followed the game at marbles. + +Buckles’ Brewery was the cause of another peculiar circumstance. On one +occasion there visited the town for the amusement of the people, a +calculating boy. He went through, his entertainment with great success, +and at last one of our worthy inhabitants got up and asked the question +“How many gallons does Mr. Buckles’ great copper hold?” The boy said he +could not tell. “No; I thought you could not,” was the reply. Our +worthy citizen had forgotten to give the dimensions of the copper, and +went away rejoicing over the fact that he had puzzled the calculating +boy! + +He reminds me very much of a story one has heard in connection with our +own professional experience. A witness was called to prove an assault, +which consisted in a man having been knocked down by a stone thrown at +him. The counsel was anxious to ascertain the size of the stone. The +witness said “do you want to know how big it was?” “Yes,” said the +counsel. “The size do you mean?” “Yes.” “Well, it was biggish.” +“Well, I want you to tell me how big it was”! “Well, sir, if you want me +to tell you how big it was, I should think it was as big as a lump o’ +chalk.” Now, I think the gentleman who put the question about the +copper, and the witness, must have been very nearly related. + +When I arrived in the City, it became very important to me to know how I +could get away from it. I lived at Northampton. Between Peterborough +and Northampton there are now eleven trains a day. When I came to +Peterborough in 1833, and for some years afterwards, the only +communication between the town of Northampton and the City of +Peterborough was a one-horse carrier’s cart, which came twice a week, and +I think the large proportion of its business consisted in carrying +parcels from the Probate Office at Northampton to the Probate Office at +Peterborough. For coaches we were pretty well off. Two mails ran +through Peterborough, the Boston Coach, and the Coach to Hull. We used +to go shares with the town of Stamford with a London Coach. One of our +townsmen ran a coach to Stilton daily, where it joined the coach from +Stamford. At one time that coach carried the letter bag, and on one +occasion it started without the bag. + +There was a man known as “Old John Frisby,” who was not quite “all +there,” and this man went after the coach with the letter bag, and +overtook it at Stilton. The poor man was under the impression that he +had done the State a great service and thought he ought to receive a +pension, and he daily expected it until his death. + +The Mail Coaches were very comfortable for travelling in fine weather, +and an eight or ten hours’ journey was very pleasant, providing you did +not ride inside. A journey to London and Edinburgh occupied two whole +days and nights. The expense of such a mode of travelling was very +great, being five or six times as much as the ordinary first class +railway fare. Every fifty or sixty miles the Coachman would touch his +hat and say, “I leave you here, sir,” which meant that you were to give +him a fee. The guard would do the same, and when your luggage was put +up, the ostler came to you. If you travelled post or in “a yellow and +two,” as it was called, you had to pay 1s. 6d. a mile, beside the toll +bars, and 3d. a mile for the post boy, as well as something more that he +always expected. The 3d. a mile for the post boy, as his regular fee, is +about equal to the highest first class railway fare that is paid on any +railway in the country. + +Just conceive what a change there is in the communication and you do not +wonder that the introduction of the railway system has made a stationary +nation into a nation of travellers. After a time things did improve a +little. The Birmingham Railway was made at considerable cost. When I +wanted to go to Northampton, for many years I had to get up at six +o’clock in the morning, hire a gig to go to Thrapston, where I caught the +Cambridge coach, which ran in connection with the coach at Oxford. It +cost about £4 to go home and come back again. When the Blisworth railway +was opened, a coach was set up from Lynn to Blisworth six days in the +week. This was a great convenience, and was very well supported. There +were two coachmen. One was very grave and serious and the other light +and frivolous. Everybody knew them very well indeed. It was very +amusing to travel with them. + +At last, the Northampton Railway was projected, and it was plain to those +men that their reign was coming to an end; but they used to endeavour to +convert you to the belief that it was far better for things to remain as +they were. The light and frivolous one used to sing a song in praise of +the “Tally Ho” Coach. I remember the chorus was: + + Let the steam pot hiss + Until it is hot. + Give me the speed of + The Tally-ho trot! + +The other coachman used to appeal to your fears, and say how dreadful it +was when a railway accident occurred—“when an accident occurred to the +coach—there you are! Just fancy an accident at 20 or 30 miles an hour; +when that happens, where are you?” + +Well, we have survived it, and I am not sure that he was accurate in his +per centage of those injured in coach and railway accidents. I have +known some very fatal and distressing accidents bearing a very large +proportion of injuries and deaths to those in the coach. I may mention +that the Lynn coach of Messrs. Hill was very good to take you to the sea, +it was very hard work to get to the beach in these days. I believe +Skegness consisted of a single house. The nearest place was Yarmouth, +and Messrs. Hill’s car took you to Lynn, where you could join the +Birmingham and Yarmouth mail. I have never forgotten my first visit to +Yarmouth when a boy. From the Norwich Road you caught the first view of +the sea. As you enter Yarmouth now by rail you go in over the marshes, +and the last two or three miles are by the side of muddy water, and you +cannot see the sea until you get on the beach. The contrast between the +way by the old coach and by the rail is very striking, indeed. + +In the year 1842 or 1843 it was rumoured that the London and +North-Western Company were about to feel their way eastward, and the +project for making the Peterborough and Northampton Railway was put into +shape. Our wildest dreams never expected a railway. We had a coach, and +that was quite a novelty. The Bishop and Dean and Chapter had a good +deal of property on the line, and strongly opposed the railway. When the +Bill came into the House of Lords it was, to our great delight, passed by +a majority of One. There is an anecdote of Lord Fitzwilliam, who was an +opponent of the Bill. That one day his Lordship was coming down by +train, and in the same carriage was one of those gentlemen who knew +everything. This gentleman was giving to a friend a history of the line, +and when passing Alwalton Lynch said: “That is the road to Milton Park, +and do you know that Lord Fitzwilliam opposed the Bill because they would +not make him a station there?” A little further on the train stopped at +Overton Station, and his Lordship got out. Just as he was shutting the +door he said to the gentleman: “That little anecdote which you just told +your friend about that crossing is not true, and when you say anything +more about it you may say that Lord Fitzwilliam told you so.” + +The Northampton line was opened in 1845, and I remember being in the +Cathedral when the first engine came down. It stopped at the end of the +Fair Meadow, for the Dean and Chapter prevented the line being brought +any nearer the town, as they would not have Bridge Fair interfered with. +The engine was only about one-third the size of what they are now, but +when it blew off steam people said they would never be able to hear +anything in the Cathedral! Yet now no notice is taken of what was looked +upon then as a deafening noise. + +We had next the London and York Railway, which then crossed the Thorpe +Road near where the old mill stood. Lord Fitzwilliam compelled the +Company to put the line by the side of the Syston and Peterborough +Railway, where it is now. There were some amusing incidents connected +with the Syston Railway. It was strongly opposed by Lord Harborough, and +there were riots and fights between his men and the surveyors of the +line. I will say no more about the railway system. + +The communications with Peterborough would be very incomplete if one +forgot the river, because the river in those days was very necessary to +the comfort of the town. I daresay now, if I were to quote Cowper’s +lines: + + Nen’s barge-laden waves, + +people might say they did not think the load is very heavy. But before +the construction of the railway, and for some year’s afterwards, barges +were found in very great abundance. We derived our whole coal supply +from the river, and it was our great channel for carrying corn and +timber. The importance of the Nene to the counties through which it +passed was very great. Amongst other things was a Packet called +“Simpson’s Packet,” and another belonging to Messrs. James and Thomas +Hill, which conveyed light goods and passengers between Peterborough and +Wisbech. I recollect the old gentleman who commanded the packet held a +very high rank in the Navy indeed. He was a wooden-legged old gentleman, +very much respected, and known by the name of Admiral Russell. He was +commander of the Packet for many years. I do not know who succeeded him, +but someone who did not attain so high a rank. + +There was a joke against Mr. Whalley, M.P., that he promised to make +Peterborough a Seaport. If the projected scheme had been fairly carried +out according to the original intention of the promoters, there would not +have been a deal of money wasted. Some think even now it should not be +given up altogether, if only for the purpose of preventing the railway +companies from putting too high prices on the carriage of goods in cases +where speed of transit is not essential. Goods used to be brought from +Wisbech in lighters, and it was a serious thing in frosty weather, +because all our coals were brought by the river, and when the frost +lasted long there was danger of a coal famine. + +Now I may mention about the postage. When I first knew Peterborough the +postage of a letter to London was 8d. A little further on it would be +10d., and go on, until it came to about 1s. 4d. When you were going to +London in those days you would receive visits from your friends, who +would ask you to take letters for them and put them in the 2d. Post in +London, and sometimes it happened that these letters were found in your +coat pocket when you got home again! The postage of a ½oz. letter was +8d., but if you cut the sheet of paper in two and used one-half as an +envelope, the postage was 1s. 4d. If you divided the sheet of paper +again and wrote a cheque on one quarter of it, and the receipt to be +signed and returned on the other and put them into the other half sheet, +the postage was again doubled. When I was at school my eldest brother, +in a fit of benevolence, sent me 2s. 6d. in a letter, and I was delighted +until I was told the postage was 2s. 8d. The matron, however, found a +way out of it. She put the 2s. 8d. down to the governor’s account, and I +had the half-crown. + +These rates of postage were very heavy, but Members of Parliament had the +privilege of what was called “franking” letters. They were continually +being applied to for these franks. They were only allowed, however, to +send a certain number of letters, and you always ran the risk of having a +bill sent in from the Post Office to the person having the privilege of +“franking,” and they would send a footman to you, and you would then have +to pay your share. This privilege of franking was abused, and one would +hear that so and so had franked a ham, and one person was said to have +franked a piano! Whether this was the truth or not I do not know, but it +shows the advantage of getting rid of exceptional privileges. + +A few words about the government of our City. When I first came to the +Town, the principal governor, the one who made the greatest impression on +my youthful imagination, at all events, was the Beadle. He was a very +important personage. His principal duty was to see the tramps out of the +town. He could not arrest them, but had to “fidget” them out. He was +always chosen with special reference to his age and infirmity. He had a +long robe, a mace, and a cocked hat. He looked very imposing, almost +like Old Scarlett in the Cathedral put into a long coat, a pair of knee +breeches, and a cocked hat. He was paid in this way: At the Quarter +Sessions he waited upon the Magistrates with a bill: “A man and a woman +sent out Stamford Road,” “Two tramps and a child, Lincoln Road,” and so +on. As we say educationally, he was paid by results. He was allowed so +much according to his services. He was the principal officer of the +place, and was appointed by the Feoffees. + +About the year 1857 we were protected by Parish Constables, and I think +the principal duty of the constable was to report himself at the Quarter +Sessions. We had two gaols—we could not do with one! One of these was +that in the Minster Precincts, recently vacated by the School of Art. +The other stood upon what is now the site of the Cumbergate Almshouses. +The one in the Minster Yard was maintained by Lord Exeter as Lord +Paramount. The other one, I think, was paid for by the Magistrates. In +1840 we got an Act of Parliament for a new gaol, and it was brought about +in this way: In about the year 1838 or 1839 a person walking through the +Minster Yard saw a head pop up out of the pavement, a body followed, +walked off, and was never heard of again. The man had simply undermined +the foundations of his cell with a knife or bone and disappeared! He was +the first that discovered that way of escape! + +About the same time in Peterborough was a family named Rogers. They were +the black sheep of the place. The head of the family was known as Jimmy +Rogers, and he took it into his head to dine one day upon sheep’s head +and pluck which he stole from a butcher’s shop. He was ordered to be put +into the Feoffees’ Gaol. He picked his way out, and this thief of the +district and his family disappeared and never came back again. It was +thought to be time we had a gaol, and the present building on the Thorpe +Road was erected. + +You must not think that we had no amusements. We used to have a theatre +on the site where the Corn Exchange now stands, and a very good theatre +it was. A very good company used to come for about three months in the +summer, and a very good entertainment was afforded. The Bishop and his +Lady of those days used to make a point of attending during the season, +and it was quite the thing to go to the theatre. + +The Fairs were very important in those days. The importance must not be +judged by what is seen of them now. Bridge Fair was then most important. +It shows the antiquity of the fairs that they had a special Court. All +fairs and markets of any antiquity had this Court which was to do justice +between man and man in any disputes arising at the fairs. + +We had two Balls regularly, one for the National School and one for the +Infirmary. When political feeling ran high one Party would go to the +National School Ball and the other to the Infirmary Ball. At other times +each party would go to both. + +Peterborough was one of the last places in which Sedan chairs flourished. +They went on until some time after the railways were established, which +altered everything. The men were too much occupied to be able to go with +the Sedan chairs when they were wanted, and so they gradually died out. + + [Picture: A Peterborough Sedan Chair. “Peterborough was one of the last + places in which Sedan chairs flourished.”—Andrew Percival] + +Whittlesey Mere existed in those days. It was thus called because it had +nothing whatever to do with Whittlesey. It was several miles away. +Whittlesey Mere was one of the wonders of Huntingdonshire, Whittlesey +being in Cambridgeshire. Whittlesey Mere was a charming place for +skating in frosty weather and for fishing in the summer time, when there +was water enough, and for boating under the same circumstances. +Sometimes, when there had been a dry time it became so shallow that you +stirred up mud from the bottom when you attempted to sail. It was very +good for fishing. One day we were out with a party, and we stopped at +old Bellamy Bradford’s landing place. It shelved off so gradually that +the distinction between grass and water was so graduated that a large +pike, probably in pursuit of a fish, had gone so far as to be prevented +from getting back to his native element. The place was surrounded by +reed shoals, where reeds for thatching grew, and these were the resort of +innumerable starlings. + + [Picture: Photo. T. N. Green. Ball & Co., Peterborough. A bit of Old + Paston. Peterborough people used to be married and buried in the +enclosed parish of Paston—a kind of oasis in the desert.—Andrew Percival] + + + + +PART THE SECOND. + + +AN OASIS IN THE DESERT.—OLD SYSTEM OF CASTOR FARMING.—A LIGHTED +BEACON.—THE FEN AROUND US.—DRAINING THE GREAT LEVEL.—THE MILL SYSTEM OF +DRAINING.—SNATCHED FROM THE SEA.—HOW LAND IMPROVED IN VALUE.—“INTELLIGENT +FENMEN.”—OLD TOWN BRIDGE.—OLD-TIME JAUNT THROUGH THE CITY.—POOR HOUSE AND +NEW GAOL.—THORPE ROAD HOSTELRY.—NEWTOWN.—THE GREAT BREWERIES AND THE +PONDS.—CABBAGE ROW.—BURIAL AT CROSS ROADS.—FROG HALL.—GAS WORKS +STARTED.—OLD MARKET.—LADIES AND THE CATTLE.—WEDNESDAY MARKET.—A CURIOSITY +MARKET.—GOD’S ACRE. + +THE great point which strikes us all, and which strikes everyone +considering the history of the last seventy years in the City of +Peterborough is the very great increase in the population, and when one +began to think how it came about we used to say “it is owing to the +railways.” But that is like telling you that the world, as the Indians +say, is supported on the back of a tortoise! You want to know why the +railways were wanted, what the tortoise stands upon, because if you look +into statistics seventy years ago, before the railways, the population of +Peterborough was considerably increasing, and the populations of +agricultural districts altogether were very much increasing, and when you +go a little further, if you look at all into the history of the land +around Peterborough, or the country altogether, you will find within a +century there had been a great change. Now, take for instance the +immediate neighbourhood of Peterborough. My recollection of it begins, +as I have said, at the latter end of 1833, at the commencement of the +last century. I think the only parish, if I except Fletton, the only +enclosed parish within some few miles of this place was the parish of +Paston. + +There you will rind the church, surrounded by old trees, and the parish +differed very much from others. If you look into the Churchyard there +you will find a great many names of the inhabitants of Peterborough and +other parishes outside Paston. If you look into the Paston register you +will find marriages solemnised between inhabitants not belonging to +Paston, the undoubted fact being that the enclosed parish of Paston led +people to desire they should be married and buried there. Paston was a +kind of oasis in the desert. + +Most of the parishes around here were in the position and character of +Castor, which until recently was the only open field parish within many +miles of this place. I was riding through Castor field some years ago, +before it was enclosed, with a few farmers, when one turned round and +said: “How should you like to farm this parish?” “Not at all,” was the +reply. A man in the parish who had a farm of a hundred acres would have +to go to his farm in four different parts of the parish—some against +Ailsworth, Milton Park, Alwalton, and so on, perhaps scattered in pieces +of one acre, two roods, and so forth. So that with a large farm a man +would have to go to a farm of a hundred acres to as many different places +two or three miles apart. The pieces were so narrow that they were like +ribbons; you could plough lengthways but not crossways. As soon as you +turned, you got on to your neighbour’s land, which was frequently a +subject of dispute. Conceive the state of the cultivation of the country +generally when that was the system not only in one parish, but in the +general bulk, at all events, in this part of the kingdom. + +Peterborough was open. All the parishes, to my knowledge, from +Peterborough to Deeping, and east to west, have been enclosed since 1812. +There was a beacon lighted at night to light the passengers over the +weary waste, since brought into cultivation. Just conceive, if you can, +the state in which this part of the country was then, and in what it is +now, and consider the great increase of corn that can be grown, and not +only corn that can be grown, but the stock that can be fed by the +cultivation of roots and the introduction of bone manure, and then you +get some idea of the increased production of the country, that rendered +improved roads, terminating in railroads, necessary. For the same +reason, the marvellous increase in the manufacturing districts has been +kept pace with in the agricultural production of the country, another +feature in our neighbourhood. + +If you begin at Cambridge and draw a line along the high land by St. +Ives, east of Peterborough, by Spalding and Boston, down to the Humber, +you will find the tract of land known as the Fen Country. That country +has undergone within the last seventy or eighty years, or a great part of +it, a change even more striking than that which has passed over the +uplands. At first you would be inclined to doubt whether there were any +such places as the Fens at all. If you say to anybody “Don’t you live in +the Fens”? the reply will be “Oh, no.” At Peterborough we are not in the +Fens. Of course not! There is Flag Fen, and there is Borough Fen, but +we are on high ground, and not in the Fen, and you will find, even if you +go east of Wisbech, where the land is called marsh land, which sounds +rather funny, that the farmers and graziers there will say they don’t +live in the Fens. And walking towards the sea you will always be told +you have come to the wrong place, you must go a little further, and then +you will find the Fen country! But still, take the Fens as we know them, +extending from Peterborough to Cambridge, and down by Boston nearly to +the Humber. + +I will confine my observations to that which most comes within my own +knowledge, that district of the Fens known as the Bedford Level, called +the South, the Middle, and the North Level. From the beginning of +Crowland on the North, down to, say, the Middle by March and Lynn, and +the South down to Cambridge. In the year 1637 a Charter was passed by +Charles I. for the improvement of that country, and we form some notion +of what it must have been—the weary waste of waters it must have +been—from the preamble of the Charter of Incorporation. It is described +as being generally covered with water, of little advantage to mankind, +except yielding some few river fish and water fowl, that is when you may +catch them, and on lucky days you may shoot wild ducks. Adventurers had +endeavoured to make lines of meadows, which had made such progress that +it was hoped this place, which had lately presented nothing to the eye +but waters and a few reeds thinly scattered here and there, might, under +Divine mercy, become some of it pleasant pasture for cattle, with many +houses belonging to the inhabitants. That seemed to have been the +extreme notion of what could be made of that country in the way of +production. Going on to the year 1830, when the last history of the +Bedford Level was written by Mr. Samuel Wells, well known as the Register +of the Corporation, he speaks of it seventy-five years ago as a matter of +congratulation that at that time, when they had improved it sufficiently +to grow oats and cole seed, that the cultivation of wheat had begun to +extend itself into the Fen country. He spoke of it almost as a novelty, +and says that the Corporation, soon after its formation, had interfered +to prevent the inhabitants, occupiers, and owners of property from +improving and draining by mills. He says that the system of drainage by +mills was abandoned in consequence of the result of the suit to prevent +it being favourable to the Corporation. + +However, in a short time, after many struggles, the Level becoming so +inundated by the choking of interior drains, the defective state of the +rivers, and neglected improvement of outfalls, the Corporation found it +impossible to resist the importunity of the country to resort to +artificial drainage, and therefore waived their objection, and allowed a +return of the mill system. The mill system up to 1830 consisted simply +of working a machine by wind to lift the water out of some embanked +portion of the Fens into a drain at a higher level, to conduct it to one +of the main drains of the Corporation to the outfall in the sea. Seventy +years ago, Mr. Wells tells us, in the whole district of the Bedford +Level—350,000 acres—there were only five steam engines, one being in the +parish of Newboro’, put up on the enclosuse. He says there was a general +opinion that steam drainage would be further prosecuted, but this +depended upon the finances of the district, and he goes on to say many +intelligent Fenmen indulged the hope of acquiring a natural drainage, +when the result of the work now undertaken, in a greater or a less degree +on all three levels, can be fully understood and ascertained. The +author, however, says he cannot rank himself amongst the number of those +sanguine persons. He thought it great progress to get five steam +engines, and hoping they would get more, he, as an intelligent Fenman, +thought it was as much as he could anticipate. + +I think in the year 1827 or 1828 one of those works, the Nene outfall, +had been undertaken, the object of which was to make the channel to the +sea through the high and shifting sands, which were at the entrance of +the Wash, through which the waters of the Nene found their way to the +sea. It was carried out. I think Mr. Tycho Wing was the great +inaugurator and Sir Jno. Rennie the engineer. It was so thoroughly +successful that it at once allowed the interior drainage of the country +to be vastly improved, and not only so, but up to the present time, by +the operation of the Nene Outfall Act, no less than 5,800 acres of land +have been actually reclaimed from the sea, the value of which is at least +from £40 to £50 per acre. Not only was the Fen district materially +improved, but a tract of country equal to a large parish was obtained, +the value of which alone would, in a measure, repay all the expense of +the undertaking. Then they went on, following the success of that, to +get the North Level Act in 1830. The effect of that was that water mills +and steam mills disappeared, and they now have natural drainage by the +water finding its way by gravitation to the sea. + +In 1840 a similar work was begun in the Middle Level, and they now have +natural drainage in nearly the whole of that Level. The only exception +is about Whittlesey Mere, where they have a steam pump and a steam +water-wheel to carry away the floods. What was the effect of that? In +the first place a tax was put on. In the Middle Level and North Level +the yearly tax may be taken at about 8s. 6d. or 9s. per acre altogether. +It sounds a very large sum where the land itself, in many instances, was +worth next to nothing before, but the effect has been that in that +district, I am not exaggerating when I say, leaving the tax out of the +question, that is, after putting the tax on the land and comparing it to +what it was before, the land is worth double, and, in many instances, +treble, and where land without the tax was worth £10 an acre, it is now +worth £20 or £30. I have had through my hands deeds of an estate in the +Fen. It contained 200 acres. In 1824 it was sold for £1,155; in 1829 +for £1,880. In 1882, notwithstanding the time of depression, it was sold +for £5,000, without any special bargain. Just think of the increase in +the value of the country in consequence of what has been done, and I +think you will see at once why the district has required railway +accommodation. + +[Picture: City wooden bridge over the Nene. Replaced 1872. Old Photo by + William Ball, Peterborough] + +Mr. Wells speaks of the “Intelligent Fenmen.” I believe in their +intelligence! In their Parliamentary battles they are as warlike as +people can be in protecting the valuable interests of which they are the +custodians, and counsel in Parliamentary committees have often said: “How +well those men understand their business; how ready they are, and what +talent they show in stating and maintaining their cause.” That is rather +a digression, but it accounts very much, I think, for the great changes +in this part of the country to which we belong. + +Now let me endeavour to show the changes in Peterborough proper. I will +supply an omission, with an apology to my old friend, the old Town +Bridge. I am ashamed to find that in my previous notes I had omitted to +say anything about it. That was rather extraordinary, because I had my +mind on it, and when I first came from Northampton my first acquaintance +with Peterborough must have been “over that bridge.” There is an old +proverb which says “Find no fault with the bridge which carries you +over.” With every disposition to be charitable, that is the only good +thing I can say of the old Bridge. It carried me over, and there was no +instance that it ever fell in, but there was always a fear that it would +fall, and everybody thought it ought to fall, but it did not, and I +mention this because I think our new Bridge is a striking instance of the +public spirit of the inhabitants of Peterborough and the neighbourhood in +subscribing the cost of one-half of it, and also of the fairness and +liberality which the county authorities displayed in meeting the +inhabitants in assisting to get a new bridge—a credit to the +district—rather than patch up that shabby, ramshackle concern, which, +patched from time to time, might have outlived another hundred years, and +a suspicion that it would fall, but never actually falling. + + [Picture: From an Old Print. Sexton Barns. “A Fine Old Building; an + object which vanished when the Railways were made, because now it is the + Site of the G.N. Station.”—Andrew Percival] + +We will walk up Bridge Street and take a turn round the outskirts of the +town as I knew it years ago. Going past the toll-bar in Cowgate we come +to the building known as Sexton Barns; probably some of you recollect it, +a fine old building; it was an object that vanished when the railways +were made, because now it is the site of the G.N. Station. There was a +handsome tree near the Crescent, where Peterborough began to stray into +the country; the Crescent had been erected four or five years before. +Opposite was the house where Mrs. Cattel lived, and then the house where +Dr. Skrimshire lived (now Dr. Keeton’s). Walking a little further, we +came to the Town Mill; very much like the Town Bridge, it had seen better +days and, like the Bridge, it had had a history. It had been the +property of the Dean and Chapter, and, without the smallest doubt, it +came down to them from the Abbot and Convent, who were the Lords of this +district. These town mills were mills which the largest landowners kept +for the accommodation of their tenants, who were thereby provided with +the means of grinding their corn at a small cost, but were compelled to +use them and pay grist to the millers, and the old law books contain much +on the subject. Its need passed away, the mill got into private hands; +it seems to have become worse and worse, and at last it was burnt down, +and we know it no more, the very site having been utilised in an exchange +of property for the erection of the present King’s School in Park Road. + +On the opposite side is the Union Workhouse, built about 1834 or 1835. +It has been very much beautified, but it is not a handsome building now. +It has had a new front or facing. I may mention in passing that I +recollect at one time there was a persistent cry made by some portion of +the Press against the new Poor Law, against the hardship of separating +man and wife, and so on, but never was so persistent an attempt made in +that part of a portion of the Press with such signal failure at the time, +although since come to pass where desirable. The new Poor Law took the +place of one that was probably ruining the country, and is, in these +later days, itself under review. + +We then walk along the road back towards Peterborough, and we find the +Gaol and Sessions House. This Gaol was built in 1840. There was a fight +between the Dean and Chapter, and their Lessee, and the Magistrates about +the enormous price asked for it, and a jury was appointed, but a price of +two or three times more than was paid at that time for the land has been +paid since for land. If anyone had it to sell now at the same price he +would be very happy. + +Between the Gaol and the Workhouse there is a nice quiet-looking +residence (Mr. Noble’s). It was, till recently, devoted to the supply of +milk, but it was built as a public house, put up by a brewery in order to +supply accommodation for people who resorted to the Sessions House at the +weekly meetings of the Magistrates, and at the Quarter Sessions. There +was a temperance wit of the day who said, “No, it is put there to show +the close and intimate connection between the gin shop, the gaol, and the +workhouse.” We will go back to the town, the whole of that known as +Newtown, long before the railways, between 1815 and 1833, had been +erected, so that it was, strictly and literally, “Newtown.” + +We then pass Squire’s Brewery at the entrance to Lincoln Road, where the +Liberal Club and Masonic Hall now stand, and we go to Boroughbury; all +beyond the malting formed part of Squire’s Brewery, going past what is +known as the “Square Pond.” The houses there, including a large part of +the Catholic Church and other buildings, are actually built upon that +which was, in 1833 (and many years afterwards), covered with water. I +was intimate with Mr. Buckle, who succeeded Mr. Squire in that brewery, +and I was permitted to fish in the pond as often as I pleased. I have +stood upon that spot which is now a public road and have caught pike and +eels, and used to have very capital sport there. In the winter time it +was a favourite resort, not thrown open to the public altogether, but +still, with great liberality, it was allowed to be used for skating. I +was very unlucky one day. It was just after a gentleman had bought the +house, afterwards Mrs. Willoughby’s (now shops erected by Mr. W. D. +Nichols), and the grounds about it, was walking in his grounds, when he +saw me pull out a large pike, and he was so enchanted with it, he thought +it would be a great benefit to his property, and to my disgust, but the +pleasure of Mr. Buckle, he bought the pond and merged it into his private +grounds. I never caught any pike there again! + +Passing the outskirts of the town, we pass the great Tithe Barn, +Boroughbury, an interesting and attractive specimen of antiquity and a +good specimen of that kind of barn. You go up that junction of Lincoln +Road to Dogsthorpe, and there past the last house until you come to two +or three cottages, then belonging to a retired tailor, named Mitchell, +and people had been profane enough to christen those cottages “Cabbage +Row.” What connection there is between a tailor and cabbage, I don’t +know. + +Crossing the fields now laid out by the great roads of the Land Company, +and which at that time were the most secluded fields around Peterborough, +and going down Crawthorne Lane you came to a junction—a little lane at +the back of Boroughbury, now a wide street behind St. Mark’s Villas, +which runs up to Park Road, and there four roads met, where there was a +little tombstone which was known as the “Girls’ Grave.” A girl was +buried there, with a stake through her body, without Christian burial. +The place was very well known, and for long remained in the midst of a +potato garden belonging to one of the cottages there. + +You go as the crow flies to a place called Frog Hall, in front of St. +Mary’s Vicarage, one of the cottages remained till 1904, and the place +had a very unsavoury reputation. It was inhabited by squatters, gipsies, +and travellers, and was one of the least desirable parts in that +neighbourhood. Then came a row of cottages known as Burton’s Row, where +Peterborough attempted to travel past its boundaries and get into the +country. + +Going back, we come to the Cemetery, but at that time all were grass +fields let out as accommodation ground, and quite secluded. A little +further on were the Gas Works. Now they ARE Gas Works. When I came they +were, as compared with the present, in about the same proportion as a +small kettle to a large steam engine boiler. A gentleman named Malam—a +Hull man—used to supply all the little towns in the country, and used to +contract with the inhabitants to supply gas for them. There was no Act +of Parliament, or anything of that sort, but permission from the Local +Authorities to break up the streets and roads was all that was required, +and he chanced it. I think Mr. Sawyer used to give as much time as he +could spare from his own business, until he became, as the town +increased, by purchase, the owner of the works, and he then gave his +whole time and attention to them, and a very nice property it developed +into by the time the present company took it off Mr. Sawyer’s hands. + +That is the history of gas in Peterborough. This brings us back to the +Long Causeway and the Market Place. Not the market now, as I recollect +it! Up to the year 1848 the farmers attending the market used to cool +their heels in the open air in front of the Town Hall, hot or cold, wet +or dry, rain or snow, blowing or still, there they stood, till the +Theatre, now the Corn Exchange (since largely added to), became vacant, +and it occurred to some agricultural gentleman that they could be much +more comfortable in every way if they could form a company, and they did +so, and I think no one will doubt that is an improvement. On the Long +Causeway, the Cattle Market was the principal institution of the place, +and I will tell you why. On Saturdays that place was wholly given up to +them. There they were; nobody paid anything; anybody who had cows or +horses to sell brought them there. They became the proprietors of the +street for that day. + +Our widest and best street was spoilt; because if there is one thing more +certain than another it is that the female mind most intensely abhors +anything approaching contact with horned animals. Somehow or other, it +seems to disturb that equanimity which appears to be utterly +indispensable to a lady when she is going what she calls “shopping,” and +it would take away all her ideas to think she was going to meet a +restless-looking cow or a doubtful looking ox. It takes away all notion +of colour, shape, and measure, or whether the thing will wash or not. +The consequence was, the Long Causeway was practically abandoned on +market days, and it was not much more used on other days for shopping +purposes, because in anything like changeable or damp weather the +atmosphere of the street was what I have heard ladies describe (not +meaning to be complimentary) as “smelly.” Therefore, naturally, there +was great rejoicing among the inhabitants generally when that street was +restored to a cleanly wholesome state by the construction of the Cattle +Market. + +The Wednesday Cattle Market had a very peculiar growth. It was set up +without the smallest authority about 1845 or 1846 by an old gentleman +named Dean, who was a retired farmer, and an enterprising auctioneer +named Dowse, who kept the “Greyhound.” They suggested that fat stock +should be brought, and it came more and more, until it grew into that +excellent stock market, which became one of the best in the Kingdom. +There was no foundation for it but that of custom. When the new market +was proposed, the farmers invited the then authorities, the Improvement +Commissioners, to construct it for them, but they made their bow and +said, “If you want a market, make it for yourselves.” It was made by a +limited company, and it has since fallen into the hands of the +authorities, and Broadway constructed through it. + +We have another market which has grown up, and that is the present +Wednesday Market on the Market Place, which I think is one of the +greatest curiosities that ever comes under one’s notice. It does no harm +to anyone. I went there recently, and I saw an extraordinary medley of +things exposed for sale. I wondered at first if they were to be given +away! I could understand anybody wishing to sell them, but wondered who +could wish to buy them. It is one of the things no one can understand. +But it affords the means of getting rid of most undesirable things, call +them furniture, or anything else! It puts me in mind of a shop in the +Market Place at Great Yarmouth, where they say you may buy anything. A +visitor, a clergyman, was told he could get anything he wanted. He said, +“I want a pulpit.” “Well,” his friend said, “go in and try.” He went in +and said, “Do you happen to have a pulpit?” and they said, “Well, we do +happen to have a pulpit.” And I think I have seen everything in our +Wednesday’s Market except that. I have not seen anything so useful as a +pulpit! + +I have spoken of our accommodation for the living. What do we do for the +dead? We have the Cemetery, which has been considerably enlarged since +it was first formed in 1852 or 1853, and the rapid increase of the +Cemetery suggests the difficulty of the disposal of the dead in a +creditable and satisfactory manner with our increasing population. The +old burial ground was opened in the year 1802, and it is one of the +peculiarities of this peculiar place, and of the old jurisdictions here, +that the old Parish Church appears to have had in ancient times no burial +ground belonging to it, a thing that very seldom happens, for the burial +ground of the Parish of St. John the Baptist was outside the Minster, +which is an extra parochial district. This remained up to 1802, when the +burial ground in Cowgate was formed. If you go into it sometime (I am +very fond of looking at the tombstones), you will find the oddest +peculiarities of language and literature as inscriptions on the +tombstones, but I cannot say I have ever found much to admire. You will +find a collection of legends which are common all over the country, +commencing with + + Affliction sore, long time he bore, + Physicians WAS in vain. + +Next to it: + + Pale consumption gave the silent BELOW, etc. + +In our graveyard in Cowgate there is an epitaph upon old Mrs. Thomas, by +which you are informed, that + + Making carpets and beds she did pursue + With care and industry is very true, + The established religion she did profess + In hopes, through Christ, of Heaven to possess. + +Such rubbish as that, under the veto of the present Cemetery +Commissioners, will, I hope, soon disappear. But there is one in the +Cathedral graveyard (the existence of which is not generally known), on +the tombstone memorial of an old family of this place, and I trust it +will not be allowed to disappear. It is very superior to what they +generally are. It is on the right just as you go through the Arch by the +Deanery, and is to the memory of one of the Richardson family: + + Stranger pass by nor idly waste your time + In bad biography or bitter rhyme; + For what I am, this cumbrous clay ensures, + And what I was, is no affair of yours. + +The old gentleman, as you see, has carried his cynical humour to the +grave with him. It was quoted in an article in “Blackwood’s Magazine” on +“Monumental Inscriptions” a few years since. + + [Picture: Peterborough Market Place A.D. 1795. N. Fielding of Stamford. + Specially drawn from a painting in Peterborough Museum] + + + + +PART THE THIRD. + + +NEWSPAPERS.—DISTEMPER.—GUILDHALL.—HANGINGS.—DARING BURGLARIES.—A LOCK-UP +STORY.—AN ALIBI.—THE MUD CASE.—WHEN THE RAILWAYS FIRST +CAME.—RETROSPECTIVE. + +IN my former Notes I alluded to the Post Office. Well, the first Post +Office I recollect was a little room about 10ft. square—I think it has +been altered since—in one of those houses at the back of the “White Lion” +gates. An old gentleman lived there who was Postmaster, and I think he +was assisted, being rather infirm, by his daughter, and I have been told +it was the amusement of a little grandchild or a little boy accustomed to +visit him, that by way of a treat he was allowed to catch letters in his +pinafore, and as a grand treat he was allowed to stamp them. At that +time the Post Office establishment consisted of the Postmaster, the lady +who assisted him, and the letter carrier, who, as some of you recollect, +was Mrs. Waterfield, a tidy woman, who had a little basket in which she +carried letters. By degrees the establishment got on. You will bear in +mind that at that time we were not troubled with Post Office Orders. +There was no way of conveying 5s. or 6s. in stamps, or by order, from one +part of the country to another. The present Post Office consists of +palatial buildings, since their enlargement in 1904, and great +departmental accommodation, the smallest room of which is larger than +that old Post Office altogether. It would not do now to catch letters in +a pinafore, as their number is many millions a month. There are +telegraph messages, Post Office Orders, and Savings Bank business. The +Postmaster and old woman have grown into a Postmaster at £500 a year, +Chief Clerk, a very important personage, the Assistant Superintendent +(Postal Department), the Assistant Superintendent (Telegraph Department), +7 controllers, and a staff numbering altogether nearly 350, with 66 +sub-Post Offices—a pretty good number. A great deal of the business is +forwarding mails passing through Peterborough, as a convenient centre for +such purposes. + +Then, as to newspapers, we used to have once a week the “Stamford +Mercury,” a very good paper, full of advertisements and local news, but +the “Stamford Mercury” was always conducted on this principle: “Opinion +is quite free in this country, and we are going to dictate to nobody,” so +you never have editorial articles in the “Stamford Mercury.” They used +sometimes to select leaders and bits of intelligence from other papers, +generally of one way of thinking. Then we used to have the London +papers. They cost 7d. each. London papers used to come down the day +after publication, after they had gone the round of the club houses, the +hotels, and the London eating houses. Those that had been in the eating +houses used sometimes to come in rather a greasy form. Now we can have +the “Times” on our breakfast table, or earlier if wished. After a time +some gentlemen thought we were very benighted in Peterborough, and two of +them, very much in advance of their age, started what we should now call +a Society paper of a very pronounced type called the “Peterborough +Argus.” The first one heard of it was, after one or two publications, +that a solicitor had inflicted upon the responsible Editor a sound +thrashing for a libel. The case went to the Northampton Assizes, and +although the verdict was not quite “served him right,” the publisher got +damages of very small amount. It was one of the most scurrilous papers +in its way, and at length it became intolerable. + +We now have in Peterborough four newspapers, besides a most ample supply +of daily newspapers. It has been very interesting to witness the growth +of Peterborough newspapers, particularly that of the ADVERTISER (the +first in the field—in 1854) from its small two pages to the very +satisfactory form in which it now appears, with its mid-weekly auxiliary, +the CITIZEN. There was also a difficulty as to supply of books. There +was a book club, the Church Porch Club, existing fifty years ago, and one +or two others, but somehow or other literature did not thrive very much +in Peterborough. One gentleman retired from the book club, and when +asked why he gave up he said “The fact is I cannot eat suppers any +longer.” It does not strike me as a good reason to give up reading, +because one would have thought he could have read better without his +supper. However, they were not then so badly off for newspapers as they +were 150 years ago. + +I mentioned just now the “Stamford Mercury.” I have before me a copy of +the “Stamford Mercury” a friend has kindly lent me, that I might extract +a little valuable comparison. What should we think if our intellectual +food came from sources such as that we got, for instance, in the year +1730, as seen in the “Stamford Mercury.” It then had a most aspiring +title, as you will see:—“The STAMFORD MERCURY, being Historical and +Political Observations on the Transactions of Europe, Together with +Remarks on Trade.” Here is this little sheet—a good-sized sheet of +letter paper, one-eighth taken up by the title and an illustrated figure +of “Mercury.” Another eighth is literally taken up by “Bills of +Mortality of London for the week or month,” and from it I wonder what +some of the diseases of that day were. One person died of +“Headmouldshot,” one of “Horse Shoehead,” and amongst other things there +is very large mortality attributed to “teeth.” Another eighth of that +paper is taken up with price lists, giving the rate of exchange between +London and Madrid, also between London and Cadiz, etc. Then prices of +goods at “Bear Key.” Another eighth is given up to observations upon the +affairs of Europe: “Our Government has received advice from Florence that +Princess Dowager Palatine has renounced all her pretentions to the +succession in favour of Don Carlos,” and such pieces as that, and then +the other half is taken up with advertisements. It is a curious thing +that in one advertisement we are told “To Let, the Three Tuns, an old +accustomed inn on the Market Place at Peterborough, Northamptonshire,” +that being the site where the present Stamford and Spalding Bank now +stands. That was in 1730. + +Twenty years later, in 1755, there is an Ipswich paper, and to show how +history repeats itself, for the consolation of our farming friends, we +are told that amongst other Acts just passed was one to continue several +laws relating to the distemper then raging among the horned cattle in the +Kingdom. There is nothing new under the sun. We have had it before, and +no doubt they said in that time legislation very much interfered with the +markets. Another curious thing in the paper is this: “The ship the Royal +George was put out of the Dock to go to Spithead.” Was this the Royal +George that “went down with twice 400 men”? Public news was important +just then. There are details as to watching the French Fleet. Those +were very anxious times, but the peculiarity of those papers is that they +gave you so little of what may be called local news. Our own local +papers give you ample City News and a Complete Chronicle of the affairs +of villages; but you may look through those papers and find nothing +approaching local news excepting this:— + + “By a letter from Thirsk in Yorkshire we learn that very lately a + terrible shock of earthquake was felt, inasmuch that several large + rocks were removed to considerable distances; several large grown + elms were swallowed up by the earth so that no part of them remained + to be seen but the uppermost branches. A man driving a cart near the + place, the horses were so much frightened by the shock that they + broke loose from the carriage and ran away. The horses seem to have + behaved very sensibly.” + +Then there is an advertisement which strikes one as rather peculiar, +because I think if some of the ladies now-a-days happened of this +misfortune you would hardly put it in the paper:— + + “Lost out of Tom Shave’s London caravan between London and Ipswich + (but supposed to be dropped between here and Colchester) a small + black trunk, containing a pink silk gown, with a pink sarsenet + lining, a blue silk quilted petticoat, a pink silver lined child’s + hat, a white chip hat with pink ribbons, a pink silk skirt, two pair + of white cotton stockings, two shifts, two lawn handkerchiefs and + owner’s other things, with a hoop petticoat tied on the outside.” + +Now, we have lived in the days of the crinoline, but I never saw one tied +on the outside! + +To return to the City of Peterborough, we come to the Town Hall. When I +first knew it, it was used as a Sessions House, but it did not belong to +the magistrates, the feoffees being the owners. It was also used as a +County Court until the present new building was erected. Speaking of the +County Courts, for many years there was no summary jurisdiction for +settling small debts and quarrels, and one really wonders how the world +got on, but one feels certain there must have been a vast deal of +injustice for the want of that which really, comparatively speaking, now +brings justice home to everybody’s own door. Just think in 1810 how +difficult it was to get. + +The Magistrates of the Liberty of Peterborough had a general commission +of gaol delivery. There are people living in Peterborough who recollect +a man being hanged on Butcher’s Piece, against the North Bank, under +sentence by the local magistrates, and I should imagine there was as much +heard of it as there is news given in this scrap of print. In 1820 an +Act of Parliament was passed enabling Magistrates at local jurisdictions +to commit persons charged with capital offences for trial at the Assizes. +In the Peterborough Court no counsel used to appear, and just imagine +what a sensation would be excited if we were now told by our Court of +Quarter Sessions that by authority of their Charter they were going to +hang a man. I recollect when I was a boy at school, just before I came +to Peterborough, I have been into the Old Bailey, and I have seen put +into the dock at the close of the Sessions 15 or 16 men and women, all of +whom were sentenced to be executed. Sheep stealing, horse stealing, cow +stealing, forgery, robbing a dwelling house to a certain amount were all +at that time capital offences, and you would see in the London newspapers +that the Recorder of the City had been down to Windsor to make his report +to the King, and that there were so many cases of death sentences, all of +which his Majesty was graciously pleased to respite, except some who were +to be executed as a deterrent example. + +There is a novel of Theodore Hook’s which gives a most striking account, +partly humorous, and partly tragic, of the proceedings and sentences at +the Old Bailey in those days. One recollects in the course of his +professional experience many cases of interest. Many striking cases of +daring burglaries have been dealt with in Peterborough. At Glinton a +house was broken into by five or six people, most convincing evidence was +given of their violence and intimidation, and the coolness of the +witnesses on the trial of the prisoners. The witnesses, as they very +frequently are, were ordered out of Court, and as they were called they +pointed out and identified particular prisoners. After this had been +done two or three times, the gentlemen in the dock changed their +positions, thinking that probably the witnesses had been tutoring one +another, and that they would then defeat them; but it did not answer, and +it being pointed out to the jury, it sealed their conviction, convincing +them that the witnesses were accurate, and not tutored. The same thing +was mentioned in the papers a few days ago as having occurred when the +prisoners were in the dock in Dublin for the Phœnix Park murders. +Another case occurred where a gang who had been the terror of the +district, all strangers, broke into a house, the Thirty Acre Farm, at +Fengate, and striking coolness and courage was shown by a girl who was +pulled out of her bed and threatened with death to compel her to open her +box and produce her money. She afterwards identified her assailants, +some by their voices even. Then there was the robbery at Orton Stanch. +The money taken by the woman there for tolls was brought to Peterborough +weekly, and one night the place was broken into and the cash box stolen. + +There was a man called Jack Hall who had settled in this part of the +country, and was connected with others of Yaxley, who committed several +robberies in the district. Hall turned informer; he was arrested for +something else, and gave information, and Stretton and a man named +Humberston were taken separately. They were first allowed to see, but +not speak to, each other, and were put into separate cells. Mr. Preston, +who used to keep the lock-up at Fletton, locked the door of the passage +dividing the cells, but was careful to leave a policeman in the passage, +where he could hear any conversation between the prisoners. Towards +morning he heard one signal, the other “Hist! Jack, what are you in for?” +“The Stanch,” was the reply. The other said, “Jack Hall’s split upon +us.” “Never mind” was the answer, “we must deny it altogether.” This +conversation was proved at the trial at the assizes, and was relied upon +to confirm the evidence. The prisoners’ counsel complained of the way +these men had been trapped, but Lord Justice Campbell, who tried them, +pointed out that they were not asked to say what they did, and they were +convicted and sentenced to transportation for life. + +One other case, the robbery at the Vicarage. The thief was met coming +away. He was described as a nice, gentlemanly looking man. A young +policeman met him in the street, and that thief had the impudence to walk +and talk to him. They walked up to the G.N. Station together, and the +policeman thinking no harm, the burglar got clear away, but he was +apprehended afterwards with others. There was a defence of an alibi set +up for one, and men were brought from Northampton to declare that he was +engaged at a tea garden there at the time. The jury did not believe +them. The same defence is one of the most common. If proved, it is, of +course, most conclusive, but it is very easy to set up this defence and +get it sworn to. It was once used by a man charged with stealing a +horse, who was found riding away upon its back. It occurs in Pickwick, +when Mr. Weller says: “Samivel, why wasn’t there an alibi?” + +There have not been many civil cases of any great interest, but a few +breaches of promise, and one rather peculiar case, known as the Mud case, +tried on the Midland Circuit. It was a question of right of navigation +through what is now Mr. Roberts’ granary against the river, and it was +stated that barge after barge had been brought up there. It was shown +that it was physically impossible for a boat to go up there, as there was +an obstruction rendering it impossible for any boat to pass through it. +That trial lasted for years. I was at Northampton during one of the +trials. There was another case between two tradesmen, one of whom had +been thrown amongst some implements, and in the first trial the verdict +was for the defendant; in the next the plaintiff got one shilling +damages. + +I have previously given particulars about the rejoicings we had when the +railways came here. Just let me add one or two words to show it was not +all gain when the railways came. You used, if you wanted to go to +London, to get up early, and, by the Eastern Counties express, start at 6 +o’clock, and be four or five hours going. In going there and coming back +you had done a hard day’s work. I used to find it necessary to be called +in good time, and recollect asking John Frisby, who used to run after the +mail, to call me. Instead of doing so a little before six, he called me +at three. “John,” I said, “do you know the time?” “Yes,” he said, “I +thought I had better be in good time.” When the railways were just made, +there was very little difference in the time taken to go to London by the +G.N.R. or G.E.R. A good fight took place between the two companies. You +could run by Northampton for 5s., instead of 11s. or 12s., by the Great +Northern, and I was once beguiled with a lady in going the cheap route. +We started at seven and arrived in London at two in the afternoon. When +we got there we were so tired we could not go out that day at all. We +had return tickets, but gave them up and came back by the G.N. The Great +Northern put a stop to it by running the direct journey there and back +for 5s. I tried that, and, coming home, was pulled in by the window, the +train being overcrowded, and sat not upon the seat, but the arms between, +and experienced for several hours something like you have seen described +after a man has been tarred and feathered, in riding a rail, or the +sensation of the monk who went into the barber’s shop, and instead of +paying the usual twopence, wanted to be shaved for the love of God. +“Certainly,” said the barber; and he shaved the monk with cold water, a +blunt razor, and a very short allowance of soap. At the conclusion of +which the monk said, “Heaven defend me from ever being shaved again for +the love of God.” He came to the conclusion, as I did, that it was +better to have things at the ordinary price and have them in the regular +way. + +Washington Irving tells the story of how one of the early settlers in the +State of New York, not a very industrious person, walked out on the +Catskill Mountains on a shooting expedition, and met with a party who +were playing at skittles. They invited him to have some whisky and +water, which he accepted, and immediately fell asleep, and at the close +of half a century awoke. His faculties were in precisely the same +condition as when he fell asleep, but the world had progressed around +him. He went home and found those whom he had left young were grown old, +and many of his neighbours had vanished from the scene. He had gone +asleep under the Monarchy and awoke under the American Republic. That is +the story, the humorous side of which is admirably painted by Washington +Irving. It seems to me that in one point of view, at least when we +exercise that wonderful faculty of memory that power of abstracting +ourselves from what has passed and is passing before us, and carry +ourselves back to the days of our youth, and for a few moments ignore all +that has since passed around us that one is somewhat in the condition of +Washington Irving’s hero of the tale in America! The history of a small +city involves the history and the progress of the nation. The population +of the country has increased relatively as the population of our own City +has increased. The same causes which have led to our improvement have +led to the improvement and the advancement in wealth, honour, and +happiness of the increased population which these circumstances have +brought into being. Nothing, I think, could be more distressing than to +have our progress blotted out. That is not the way in which a wise and +merciful Providence deals with his creatures. Our troubles, our +afflictions, the memory of those we have lost, become pleasant memories. +We do not fail to notice the beauty of the thought that those who are +taken from us are not lost, but only gone before. And so it is in the +life of a nation. If one were depicting the life of the nation for the +last 50 year’s one would speak of the happiness that the great bulk of +the population enjoyed. + +I have lived through the Chartist Riots, the Irish Famine, and the Cotton +Famine, which tried the endurance of our artisans in the manufacturing +districts, and caused in the minds of statesmen and of every thinking man +the great apprehensions as to its bearing upon the industry and wealth +and happiness of the country. I have lived through periods of war—the +Crimean War, when the thoughts of everyone were directed to our Army in +distress barely holding its own through that dreadful winter—and the +Indian Mutiny. All these incidents in the life of a nation answer to the +troubles and afflictions in the life of the individual. We have survived +the troubles which faced us, and how can I do more than say that thoughts +such as these remind us of our duties as Citizens, as individuals, as +members of the great community, showing us how much we have to be +thankful for and how much we are dependent on circumstances. + + * * * * * + + FINIS. + + [Picture: Map of Whittlesey Mere, from “Fenland Notes & Queries.”] + + + + +FOOTNOTES + + +{5} The pagination in the book cannot be followed for the illustrations +in some cases as they appear on their own pages in the middle of random +paragraphs. In such cases the illustrations have been moved onto the +following page, and the pages numbers in the list of illustrations have +been changed accordingly. The filenames for the illustrations are their +original page numbers.—DP. + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES ON OLD PETERBOROUGH*** + + +******* This file should be named 45059-0.txt or 45059-0.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/5/0/5/45059 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Notes on Old Peterborough + + +Author: Andrew Percival + + + +Release Date: March 5, 2014 [eBook #45059] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES ON OLD PETERBOROUGH*** +</pre> +<p>Transcribed from the 1905 Geo. C. Caster edition by David +Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/tpb.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Andrew Percival (Taken in the year 1901)" +title= +"Andrew Percival (Taken in the year 1901)" +src="images/tps.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center">May be had bound in Cloth, Price +1/6.</p> + +<div class="gapshortline"> </div> +<h1>Notes on<br /> +Old Peterborough,</h1> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY</span><br +/> +<b>ANDREW PERCIVAL, S.S.C.,</b></p> +<p style="text-align: center">With Eight Illustrations,</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span +class="GutSmall">INCLUDING</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">Portrait of the Author.</p> +<p style="text-align: center">Arranged, Published, and Sold by +Special Permission<br /> +of the Author,</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY</span><br +/> +<b>The PETERBOROUGH ARCHÆOLOGICAL SOCIETY.</b></p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p0ab.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative graphic" +title= +"Decorative graphic" +src="images/p0as.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><b>ONE SHILLING.</b></p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p0bb.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Decorative graphic" +title= +"Decorative graphic" +src="images/p0bs.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p style="text-align: center"><span +class="GutSmall">PETERBOROUGH:</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">GEO. C. CASTER, MARKET PLACE.</span><br /> +<span class="GutSmall">1905.</span></p> +<p style="text-align: center">[<i>Reprinted from type of the</i> +“<i>Peterborough Advertiser</i>.”]</p> +<h2><a name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +3</span>PREFACE.</h2> +<p>The Reminiscences of a Citizen whose memory goes back in +detail for over Seventy Years, as in the case of the Contributor +of these Notes, cannot fail to be of paramount interest and of +antiquarian value. Especially in this case, where the +distinguished Narrator has held a very foremost place in the +Professional life and Voluntary Public Service of the City. +Additionally interesting must they prove in the case of a City +which has developed from a comparatively small parish into a +populous industrial, commercial and residential Centre. The +Peterborough Archæological Society has in these +circumstances undertaken the duty of preserving and circulating +in compact form the very valuable personal Recollections of Mr. +Andrew Percival. In doing so the Society acknowledges its +indebtedness to that gentleman for his ready permission to +entrust them to its charge. The writer of this Preface was +present at the old Wentworth Rooms, at Peterborough, in the years +1883–4, when the addresses which formed the basis of this +chronicle were delivered. He thus felt a continuity of +interest when the manuscript was recently committed to him to +prepare, with illustrations, for advance publication in the +“Peterborough Advertiser,” in September, 1905, and in +bringing up to date, during the indisposition of the Author, +several of the chronological and statistical references. +Otherwise the Notes remain exactly as set down and corrected by +Mr. Percival. The Society expresses its thanks to Mr. A. C. +Taylor for the use of the very excellent photo of Mr. Percival +which forms the frontispiece; to Mr. T. N. Green (Ball & Co.) +for the Photo of the Old Bridge; and to Mr. Geo. C. Caster for +the use of “Whittlesey Mere” block, from +“Fenland Notes & Queries”; most of the others +having been specially taken and engraved for this +Publication.</p> +<p style="text-align: right">F. L.</p> +<p><i>Peterborough</i>, <i>Oct.</i>, <i>1905</i>.</p> +<h2><a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +5</span>INDEX.</h2> +<h3>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. <a name="citation5"></a><a +href="#footnote5" class="citation">[5]</a></h3> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p>Portrait of Mr. Andrew Percival</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right">Title Page</p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Peterborough Market Place in 1836</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Sedan Chair</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Cottages in Paston</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page20">20</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>The Old Bridge over the Nene</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Sexton Barns</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Peterborough Market Place in 1795</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page36">36</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Map of Whittlesey Mere</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page47">47</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<table> +<tr> +<td><p> </p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span +class="GutSmall">PAGE.</span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Advertisement, A peculiar</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>An Alibi</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Balls</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Barns</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Beacon, A lighted</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Beadle, The City</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Breweries</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Bridge, The old wooden</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Buckle’s Brewery</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Burglaries</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Burial at Cross Roads</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Burial Ground, The Old</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Butcher’s Piece, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: right"> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Cabbage Row</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Calculating Boy</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Castor, Old system of farming at</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Cattle Market</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Cemetery, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Coaches, Mail</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page13">13</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Constables, Parish</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Contrast, A</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page13">13</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Cost of Travelling</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: right"> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Distemper, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Draining the Great Level</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Epitaphs</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Executions</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Extraordinary Medley</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Fairs</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Fen around Peterborough</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Fen Drainage</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Fen Taxes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Franking Letters</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page16">16</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Frisby’s Feat</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Frog Hall</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Gaols</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Gas Works started</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page32">32</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Gates, Toll</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>God’s Acre</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Guildhall, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hangings</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page41">41</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Hostelry, The Thorpe Road</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Infirmary, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page10">10</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Intelligent Fenmen</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Jaunt through the City</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Ladies and the Cattle</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Land, Improvement in value of</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Level, The Great</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Level, Draining the Great</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page23">23</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Lock-up Story</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mail Coaches</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Market, Cattle</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>,, The old</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page33">33</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>„ Wednesday</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page34">34</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mere, Whittlesey</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mill, The Old</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mill system of Draining</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Mud Case, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page44">44</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Nene Outfall, The</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Newspapers</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page39">39</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page40">40</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Newtown</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Notorious Family, A</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Oasis in the Desert</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page21">21</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Packets, River</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Parish Constables</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Paston</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page22">22</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Ponds</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Poor House</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Poor Law</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page30">30</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Post Office</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page37">37</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Postal Charges</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Railways</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page11">11</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page44">44</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Railways and Earl Fitzwilliam</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Retrospective</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page45">45</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>River Packets</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Robbery at the Vicarage</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page43">43</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Sedan Chairs</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Sexton Barns</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page29">29</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Smothering the Cathedral</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page14">14</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Snatched from the Sea</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page25">25</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Tales of the Coaching days</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page12">12</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Theatre</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page17">17</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Toll Gates</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page9">9</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Tombstone Rhymes</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page35">35</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Tythe Barn, Boroughbury</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page31">31</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Value of land improved</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page27">27</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><p> </p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Whalley, Mr. G. H.</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page15">15</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><p>Whittlesey Mere</p> +</td> +<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a +href="#page19">19</a></span></p> +</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h2><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>PART THE +FIRST.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm"><span class="smcap">City Toll +Gates</span>.—<span class="smcap">How Toll was +Levied</span>.—<span class="smcap">The +Infirmary</span>.—<span class="smcap">Old City +Breweries</span>.—<span class="smcap">The Calculating +Boy</span>.—<span class="smcap">Starting the +Railways</span>.—<span class="smcap">Frisby’s +Feat</span>.—<span class="smcap">Tales of the Coaching +Days</span>.—<span class="smcap">Tally-Ho +Coach</span>.—<span class="smcap">A +Contrast</span>.—<span class="smcap">A Story of Lord +Fitzwilliam</span>.—<span class="smcap">Smothering the +Cathedral</span>.—<span class="smcap">The Old +Mill</span>.—<span class="smcap">Simpson’s +Packet</span>.—<span class="smcap">Mr. Whalley’s +Joke</span>.—<span class="smcap">Postal +Charges</span>.—<span class="smcap">Franking +Letters</span>.—<span class="smcap">The City +Beadle</span>.—<span class="smcap">Parish Constables and +Gaol</span>.—<span class="smcap">A Notorious +Family</span>.—<span +class="smcap">Fairs</span>.—<span class="smcap">City +Bells</span>.—<span class="smcap">Sedan +Chairs</span>.—<span class="smcap">Whittlesey +Mere</span>.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">When</span> I came to Peterboro’ in +Oct., 1833, I think our population was five or six +thousand. In the month of August I came down to make +arrangements for my being articled to the late Mr. Gates. I +was taken charge of by my father, and protected by my sister, and +we drove from Northampton, where my father was a medical man +having an extensive practice, and could only spare one day. +During the night a most extraordinary storm sprang up. We +had to go back during that storm. There was an enormous +destruction of timber on the road between here and Northampton, +and in many other parts of the country. It was a storm such +as very seldom rages in these latitudes in the summer +months. In one part of the journey was a great avenue of +trees, a considerable portion of which was destroyed. It +was the property of a worthy squire, and I remember hearing it +remarked, “How much Mr. So-and-So will feel the destruction +of his avenue.” “Oh dear no,” said the +person spoken to, “don’t you know that that property +is settled property, and he has no power of cutting timber, and +he will be highly delighted. He thinks the avenue is <a +name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>much improved, +as it puts a very good sum of money into his pocket, which is +very welcome to him.” You see it is an ill wind that +blows nobody good.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p8b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Peterborough Market Place in the Coaching Days. (From a Print, +1836). “Peterborough has much altered since those +days.”—Andrew Percival" +title= +"Peterborough Market Place in the Coaching Days. (From a Print, +1836). “Peterborough has much altered since those +days.”—Andrew Percival" +src="images/p8s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>When I got here, the first thing I saw when I looked round the +town was that it was confined by toll bars. There was a +toll bar just over the bridge, where the little house since +converted into shops then was. At the other end of the +town, on the Lincoln Road, was another toll bar; on the Thorney +Road was another, and at the back of Westgate another. Our +town had four gates drawn across the four entrances; on the road +now known as Lincoln Road East, then Crawthorne Lane, there was a +side bar to prevent anyone getting out of the town without paying +contributions. One enquired what these meant, because +within a mile or two on each of the main roads you would find +another toll bar, at which they duly took toll, and the only +villages that could get into Peterborough without paying toll +were Yaxley, Farcet, and Stanground, as the turnpike road toll on +that road, the old London Road, was near Norman Cross. +Otherwise, our system was so ingeniously contrived that you could +not get into or out of Peterborough without paying town toll at +the end of the street, which were tolls for the pavement. +This was rather a peculiar system. I do not wish to quote +Scripture, but you will recollect the enquiry, “Of whom do +the Kings of the earth take tribute? Of their own children +or of strangers, and they said ‘of strangers.’ +Then the comment was ‘Then are the children +free!’”</p> +<p>The system that our forefathers adopted for encouraging +communication and traffic was this: They put a toll on for their +pavements, from the payment of which they exempted themselves, +and took it from the strangers that came into the place. +The only exceptions were when the inhabitants of the place +travelled on Sundays. Toll collectors were then authorised +to take toll from them, and also from those who hired vehicles in +the place, the result being if you were an inhabitant of the +place, and had the luck to keep your carriage or gig or wagon, <a +name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>or whatever +it was, you might use the pavement as much as you pleased, and +pay nothing. But if you were a poor person, or could only +treat yourself occasionally with the luxury of a gig, or were +obliged to hire a trap for business, yon were immediately taken +toll of.</p> +<p>The present Hospital or Infirmary was then a private +dwelling-house. The Dispensary which existed then was a +small house opposite the Old Burial Ground, the one now occupied +by Mr. Payling, the dentist. After some years, it was +removed from this place to what is now the Police Station in +Newtown. Soon after this, the Earl Fitzwilliam purchased +the present building and presented it to the City, a monument of +his appreciation of the good that had been done in a small way by +the existing buildings, and which, I think, in the present +arrangements, fully carried out his Lordship’s benevolent +wishes.</p> +<p>There were two considerable features of Peterborough which +have entirely disappeared. Where Queen Street and North +Street now stand were two large breweries, known as +Buckle’s Brewery and Squires’s Brewery. They +were quite institutions of the place, and it always strikes me as +a very strange thing that they should have entirely disappeared, +as one of them would have been larger than all the breweries now +in Peterborough. Buckles’ Brewery was certainly a +very remarkable one, and carried on with great energy and +spirit. There was one peculiarity they had—that some +friends of the partners could assemble on Easter Monday and spend +the afternoon in playing at marbles. I have spent pleasant +afternoons there on Easter Mondays. There were two large +tuns or barrels in which the beer was kept, one of which was +called Mrs. Clarke, and the other the Duke of York, to perpetuate +a scandal at the time when they were constructed. A very +hospitable time always followed the game at marbles.</p> +<p>Buckles’ Brewery was the cause of another peculiar +circumstance. On one occasion there visited the town for +the amusement of the people, a calculating boy. He went <a +name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>through, his +entertainment with great success, and at last one of our worthy +inhabitants got up and asked the question “How many gallons +does Mr. Buckles’ great copper hold?” The boy +said he could not tell. “No; I thought you could +not,” was the reply. Our worthy citizen had forgotten +to give the dimensions of the copper, and went away rejoicing +over the fact that he had puzzled the calculating boy!</p> +<p>He reminds me very much of a story one has heard in connection +with our own professional experience. A witness was called +to prove an assault, which consisted in a man having been knocked +down by a stone thrown at him. The counsel was anxious to +ascertain the size of the stone. The witness said “do +you want to know how big it was?” “Yes,” +said the counsel. “The size do you mean?” +“Yes.” “Well, it was +biggish.” “Well, I want you to tell me how big +it was”! “Well, sir, if you want me to tell you +how big it was, I should think it was as big as a lump o’ +chalk.” Now, I think the gentleman who put the +question about the copper, and the witness, must have been very +nearly related.</p> +<p>When I arrived in the City, it became very important to me to +know how I could get away from it. I lived at +Northampton. Between Peterborough and Northampton there are +now eleven trains a day. When I came to Peterborough in +1833, and for some years afterwards, the only communication +between the town of Northampton and the City of Peterborough was +a one-horse carrier’s cart, which came twice a week, and I +think the large proportion of its business consisted in carrying +parcels from the Probate Office at Northampton to the Probate +Office at Peterborough. For coaches we were pretty well +off. Two mails ran through Peterborough, the Boston Coach, +and the Coach to Hull. We used to go shares with the town +of Stamford with a London Coach. One of our townsmen ran a +coach to Stilton daily, where it joined the coach from +Stamford. At one time that coach carried the letter bag, +and on one occasion it started without the bag.</p> +<p><a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>There +was a man known as “Old John Frisby,” who was not +quite “all there,” and this man went after the coach +with the letter bag, and overtook it at Stilton. The poor +man was under the impression that he had done the State a great +service and thought he ought to receive a pension, and he daily +expected it until his death.</p> +<p>The Mail Coaches were very comfortable for travelling in fine +weather, and an eight or ten hours’ journey was very +pleasant, providing you did not ride inside. A journey to +London and Edinburgh occupied two whole days and nights. +The expense of such a mode of travelling was very great, being +five or six times as much as the ordinary first class railway +fare. Every fifty or sixty miles the Coachman would touch +his hat and say, “I leave you here, sir,” which meant +that you were to give him a fee. The guard would do the +same, and when your luggage was put up, the ostler came to +you. If you travelled post or in “a yellow and +two,” as it was called, you had to pay 1s. 6d. a mile, +beside the toll bars, and 3d. a mile for the post boy, as well as +something more that he always expected. The 3d. a mile for +the post boy, as his regular fee, is about equal to the highest +first class railway fare that is paid on any railway in the +country.</p> +<p>Just conceive what a change there is in the communication and +you do not wonder that the introduction of the railway system has +made a stationary nation into a nation of travellers. After +a time things did improve a little. The Birmingham Railway +was made at considerable cost. When I wanted to go to +Northampton, for many years I had to get up at six o’clock +in the morning, hire a gig to go to Thrapston, where I caught the +Cambridge coach, which ran in connection with the coach at +Oxford. It cost about £4 to go home and come back +again. When the Blisworth railway was opened, a coach was +set up from Lynn to Blisworth six days in the week. This +was a great convenience, and was very well supported. There +were two coachmen. One was very grave and serious and the +other light and frivolous. Everybody knew them <a +name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 13</span>very well +indeed. It was very amusing to travel with them.</p> +<p>At last, the Northampton Railway was projected, and it was +plain to those men that their reign was coming to an end; but +they used to endeavour to convert you to the belief that it was +far better for things to remain as they were. The light and +frivolous one used to sing a song in praise of the “Tally +Ho” Coach. I remember the chorus was:</p> +<blockquote><p>Let the steam pot hiss<br /> + Until it is hot.<br /> +Give me the speed of<br /> + The Tally-ho trot!</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The other coachman used to appeal to your fears, and say how +dreadful it was when a railway accident +occurred—“when an accident occurred to the +coach—there you are! Just fancy an accident at 20 or +30 miles an hour; when that happens, where are you?”</p> +<p>Well, we have survived it, and I am not sure that he was +accurate in his per centage of those injured in coach and railway +accidents. I have known some very fatal and distressing +accidents bearing a very large proportion of injuries and deaths +to those in the coach. I may mention that the Lynn coach of +Messrs. Hill was very good to take you to the sea, it was very +hard work to get to the beach in these days. I believe +Skegness consisted of a single house. The nearest place was +Yarmouth, and Messrs. Hill’s car took you to Lynn, where +you could join the Birmingham and Yarmouth mail. I have +never forgotten my first visit to Yarmouth when a boy. From +the Norwich Road you caught the first view of the sea. As +you enter Yarmouth now by rail you go in over the marshes, and +the last two or three miles are by the side of muddy water, and +you cannot see the sea until you get on the beach. The +contrast between the way by the old coach and by the rail is very +striking, indeed.</p> +<p>In the year 1842 or 1843 it was rumoured that the London and +North-Western Company were about to feel their way eastward, and +the project for making the Peterborough and Northampton Railway +was put into shape. Our wildest dreams never expected a <a +name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +14</span>railway. We had a coach, and that was quite a +novelty. The Bishop and Dean and Chapter had a good deal of +property on the line, and strongly opposed the railway. +When the Bill came into the House of Lords it was, to our great +delight, passed by a majority of One. There is an anecdote +of Lord Fitzwilliam, who was an opponent of the Bill. That +one day his Lordship was coming down by train, and in the same +carriage was one of those gentlemen who knew everything. +This gentleman was giving to a friend a history of the line, and +when passing Alwalton Lynch said: “That is the road to +Milton Park, and do you know that Lord Fitzwilliam opposed the +Bill because they would not make him a station +there?” A little further on the train stopped at +Overton Station, and his Lordship got out. Just as he was +shutting the door he said to the gentleman: “That little +anecdote which you just told your friend about that crossing is +not true, and when you say anything more about it you may say +that Lord Fitzwilliam told you so.”</p> +<p>The Northampton line was opened in 1845, and I remember being +in the Cathedral when the first engine came down. It +stopped at the end of the Fair Meadow, for the Dean and Chapter +prevented the line being brought any nearer the town, as they +would not have Bridge Fair interfered with. The engine was +only about one-third the size of what they are now, but when it +blew off steam people said they would never be able to hear +anything in the Cathedral! Yet now no notice is taken of +what was looked upon then as a deafening noise.</p> +<p>We had next the London and York Railway, which then crossed +the Thorpe Road near where the old mill stood. Lord +Fitzwilliam compelled the Company to put the line by the side of +the Syston and Peterborough Railway, where it is now. There +were some amusing incidents connected with the Syston +Railway. It was strongly opposed by Lord Harborough, and +there were riots and fights between his men and the surveyors of +the line. I will say no more about the railway system.</p> +<p>The communications with Peterborough would be very incomplete +if one forgot the <a name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +15</span>river, because the river in those days was very +necessary to the comfort of the town. I daresay now, if I +were to quote Cowper’s lines:</p> +<blockquote><p>Nen’s barge-laden waves,</p> +</blockquote> +<p>people might say they did not think the load is very +heavy. But before the construction of the railway, and for +some year’s afterwards, barges were found in very great +abundance. We derived our whole coal supply from the river, +and it was our great channel for carrying corn and timber. +The importance of the Nene to the counties through which it +passed was very great. Amongst other things was a Packet +called “Simpson’s Packet,” and another +belonging to Messrs. James and Thomas Hill, which conveyed light +goods and passengers between Peterborough and Wisbech. I +recollect the old gentleman who commanded the packet held a very +high rank in the Navy indeed. He was a wooden-legged old +gentleman, very much respected, and known by the name of Admiral +Russell. He was commander of the Packet for many +years. I do not know who succeeded him, but someone who did +not attain so high a rank.</p> +<p>There was a joke against Mr. Whalley, M.P., that he promised +to make Peterborough a Seaport. If the projected scheme had +been fairly carried out according to the original intention of +the promoters, there would not have been a deal of money +wasted. Some think even now it should not be given up +altogether, if only for the purpose of preventing the railway +companies from putting too high prices on the carriage of goods +in cases where speed of transit is not essential. Goods +used to be brought from Wisbech in lighters, and it was a serious +thing in frosty weather, because all our coals were brought by +the river, and when the frost lasted long there was danger of a +coal famine.</p> +<p>Now I may mention about the postage. When I first knew +Peterborough the postage of a letter to London was 8d. A +little further on it would be 10d., and go on, until it came to +about 1s. 4d. When you were going to London in those days +you would <a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +16</span>receive visits from your friends, who would ask you to +take letters for them and put them in the 2d. Post in London, and +sometimes it happened that these letters were found in your coat +pocket when you got home again! The postage of a +½oz. letter was 8d., but if you cut the sheet of paper in +two and used one-half as an envelope, the postage was 1s. +4d. If you divided the sheet of paper again and wrote a +cheque on one quarter of it, and the receipt to be signed and +returned on the other and put them into the other half sheet, the +postage was again doubled. When I was at school my eldest +brother, in a fit of benevolence, sent me 2s. 6d. in a letter, +and I was delighted until I was told the postage was 2s. +8d. The matron, however, found a way out of it. She +put the 2s. 8d. down to the governor’s account, and I had +the half-crown.</p> +<p>These rates of postage were very heavy, but Members of +Parliament had the privilege of what was called +“franking” letters. They were continually being +applied to for these franks. They were only allowed, +however, to send a certain number of letters, and you always ran +the risk of having a bill sent in from the Post Office to the +person having the privilege of “franking,” and they +would send a footman to you, and you would then have to pay your +share. This privilege of franking was abused, and one would +hear that so and so had franked a ham, and one person was said to +have franked a piano! Whether this was the truth or not I +do not know, but it shows the advantage of getting rid of +exceptional privileges.</p> +<p>A few words about the government of our City. When I +first came to the Town, the principal governor, the one who made +the greatest impression on my youthful imagination, at all +events, was the Beadle. He was a very important +personage. His principal duty was to see the tramps out of +the town. He could not arrest them, but had to +“fidget” them out. He was always chosen with +special reference to his age and infirmity. He had a long +robe, a mace, and a cocked hat. He looked very imposing, +almost like Old Scarlett in the Cathedral put into a long coat, a +pair of knee breeches, and a cocked <a name="page17"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 17</span>hat. He was paid in this way: +At the Quarter Sessions he waited upon the Magistrates with a +bill: “A man and a woman sent out Stamford Road,” +“Two tramps and a child, Lincoln Road,” and so +on. As we say educationally, he was paid by results. +He was allowed so much according to his services. He was +the principal officer of the place, and was appointed by the +Feoffees.</p> +<p>About the year 1857 we were protected by Parish Constables, +and I think the principal duty of the constable was to report +himself at the Quarter Sessions. We had two gaols—we +could not do with one! One of these was that in the Minster +Precincts, recently vacated by the School of Art. The other +stood upon what is now the site of the Cumbergate +Almshouses. The one in the Minster Yard was maintained by +Lord Exeter as Lord Paramount. The other one, I think, was +paid for by the Magistrates. In 1840 we got an Act of +Parliament for a new gaol, and it was brought about in this way: +In about the year 1838 or 1839 a person walking through the +Minster Yard saw a head pop up out of the pavement, a body +followed, walked off, and was never heard of again. The man +had simply undermined the foundations of his cell with a knife or +bone and disappeared! He was the first that discovered that +way of escape!</p> +<p>About the same time in Peterborough was a family named +Rogers. They were the black sheep of the place. The +head of the family was known as Jimmy Rogers, and he took it into +his head to dine one day upon sheep’s head and pluck which +he stole from a butcher’s shop. He was ordered to be +put into the Feoffees’ Gaol. He picked his way out, +and this thief of the district and his family disappeared and +never came back again. It was thought to be time we had a +gaol, and the present building on the Thorpe Road was +erected.</p> +<p>You must not think that we had no amusements. We used to +have a theatre on the site where the Corn Exchange now stands, +and a very good theatre it was. A very good company used to +come for about three months in the summer, and a very good +entertainment was afforded. The Bishop and <a +name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>his Lady of +those days used to make a point of attending during the season, +and it was quite the thing to go to the theatre.</p> +<p>The Fairs were very important in those days. The +importance must not be judged by what is seen of them now. +Bridge Fair was then most important. It shows the antiquity +of the fairs that they had a special Court. All fairs and +markets of any antiquity had this Court which was to do justice +between man and man in any disputes arising at the fairs.</p> +<p>We had two Balls regularly, one for the National School and +one for the Infirmary. When political feeling ran high one +Party would go to the National School Ball and the other to the +Infirmary Ball. At other times each party would go to +both.</p> +<p>Peterborough was one of the last places in which Sedan chairs +flourished. They went on until some time after the railways +were established, which altered everything. The men were +too much occupied to be able to go with the Sedan chairs when +they were wanted, and so they gradually died out.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p18b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"A Peterborough Sedan Chair. “Peterborough was one of the +last places in which Sedan chairs flourished.”—Andrew +Percival" +title= +"A Peterborough Sedan Chair. “Peterborough was one of the +last places in which Sedan chairs flourished.”—Andrew +Percival" +src="images/p18s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Whittlesey Mere existed in those days. It was thus +called because it had nothing whatever to do with +Whittlesey. It was several miles away. Whittlesey +Mere was one of the wonders of Huntingdonshire, Whittlesey being +in Cambridgeshire. Whittlesey Mere was a charming place for +skating in frosty weather and for fishing in the summer time, +when there was water enough, and for boating under the same +circumstances. Sometimes, when there had been a dry time it +became so shallow that you stirred up mud from the bottom when +you attempted to sail. It was very good for fishing. +One day we were out with a party, and we stopped at old Bellamy +Bradford’s landing place. It shelved off so gradually +that the distinction between grass and water was so graduated +that a large pike, probably in pursuit of a fish, had gone so far +as to be prevented from getting back to his native element. +The place was surrounded by reed shoals, where reeds for +thatching grew, and these were the resort of innumerable +starlings.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page20"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 20</span> +<a href="images/p20b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Photo. T. N. Green. Ball & Co., Peterborough. A bit of Old +Paston. Peterborough people used to be married and buried in the +enclosed parish of Paston—a kind of oasis in the +desert.—Andrew Percival" +title= +"Photo. T. N. Green. Ball & Co., Peterborough. A bit of Old +Paston. Peterborough people used to be married and buried in the +enclosed parish of Paston—a kind of oasis in the +desert.—Andrew Percival" +src="images/p20s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>PART +THE SECOND.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm"><span class="smcap">An Oasis in the +Desert</span>.—<span class="smcap">Old System of Castor +Farming</span>.—<span class="smcap">A Lighted +Beacon</span>.—<span class="smcap">The Fen Around +Us</span>.—<span class="smcap">Draining the Great +Level</span>.—<span class="smcap">The Mill System of +Draining</span>.—<span class="smcap">Snatched From the +Sea</span>.—<span class="smcap">How Land Improved in +Value</span>.—“<span class="smcap">Intelligent +Fenmen</span>.”—<span class="smcap">Old Town +Bridge</span>.—<span class="smcap">Old-time Jaunt through +the City</span>.—<span class="smcap">Poor House and New +Gaol</span>.—<span class="smcap">Thorpe Road +Hostelry</span>.—<span +class="smcap">Newtown</span>.—<span class="smcap">The Great +Breweries and the Ponds</span>.—<span class="smcap">Cabbage +Row</span>.—<span class="smcap">Burial at Cross +Roads</span>.—<span class="smcap">Frog +Hall</span>.—<span class="smcap">Gas Works +Started</span>.—<span class="smcap">Old +Market</span>.—<span class="smcap">Ladies and the +Cattle</span>.—<span class="smcap">Wednesday +Market</span>.—<span class="smcap">A Curiosity +Market</span>.—<span class="smcap">God’s +Acre</span>.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> great point which strikes us +all, and which strikes everyone considering the history of the +last seventy years in the City of Peterborough is the very great +increase in the population, and when one began to think how it +came about we used to say “it is owing to the +railways.” But that is like telling you that the +world, as the Indians say, is supported on the back of a +tortoise! You want to know why the railways were wanted, +what the tortoise stands upon, because if you look into +statistics seventy years ago, before the railways, the population +of Peterborough was considerably increasing, and the populations +of agricultural districts altogether were very much increasing, +and when you go a little further, if you look at all into the +history of the land around Peterborough, or the country +altogether, you will find within a century there had been a great +change. Now, take for instance the immediate neighbourhood +of Peterborough. My recollection of it begins, as I have +said, at the latter end of 1833, at the commencement of the last +century. I think the only parish, if I except Fletton, the +only enclosed parish <a name="page22"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 22</span>within some few miles of this place +was the parish of Paston.</p> +<p>There you will rind the church, surrounded by old trees, and +the parish differed very much from others. If you look into +the Churchyard there you will find a great many names of the +inhabitants of Peterborough and other parishes outside +Paston. If you look into the Paston register you will find +marriages solemnised between inhabitants not belonging to Paston, +the undoubted fact being that the enclosed parish of Paston led +people to desire they should be married and buried there. +Paston was a kind of oasis in the desert.</p> +<p>Most of the parishes around here were in the position and +character of Castor, which until recently was the only open field +parish within many miles of this place. I was riding +through Castor field some years ago, before it was enclosed, with +a few farmers, when one turned round and said: “How should +you like to farm this parish?” “Not at +all,” was the reply. A man in the parish who had a +farm of a hundred acres would have to go to his farm in four +different parts of the parish—some against Ailsworth, +Milton Park, Alwalton, and so on, perhaps scattered in pieces of +one acre, two roods, and so forth. So that with a large +farm a man would have to go to a farm of a hundred acres to as +many different places two or three miles apart. The pieces +were so narrow that they were like ribbons; you could plough +lengthways but not crossways. As soon as you turned, you +got on to your neighbour’s land, which was frequently a +subject of dispute. Conceive the state of the cultivation +of the country generally when that was the system not only in one +parish, but in the general bulk, at all events, in this part of +the kingdom.</p> +<p>Peterborough was open. All the parishes, to my +knowledge, from Peterborough to Deeping, and east to west, have +been enclosed since 1812. There was a beacon lighted at +night to light the passengers over the weary waste, since brought +into cultivation. Just conceive, if you can, the state in +which this part of the country was then, and in what it is now, +and consider the great increase of corn that can be grown, and +not <a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 23</span>only +corn that can be grown, but the stock that can be fed by the +cultivation of roots and the introduction of bone manure, and +then you get some idea of the increased production of the +country, that rendered improved roads, terminating in railroads, +necessary. For the same reason, the marvellous increase in +the manufacturing districts has been kept pace with in the +agricultural production of the country, another feature in our +neighbourhood.</p> +<p>If you begin at Cambridge and draw a line along the high land +by St. Ives, east of Peterborough, by Spalding and Boston, down +to the Humber, you will find the tract of land known as the Fen +Country. That country has undergone within the last seventy +or eighty years, or a great part of it, a change even more +striking than that which has passed over the uplands. At +first you would be inclined to doubt whether there were any such +places as the Fens at all. If you say to anybody +“Don’t you live in the Fens”? the reply will be +“Oh, no.” At Peterborough we are not in the +Fens. Of course not! There is Flag Fen, and there is +Borough Fen, but we are on high ground, and not in the Fen, and +you will find, even if you go east of Wisbech, where the land is +called marsh land, which sounds rather funny, that the farmers +and graziers there will say they don’t live in the +Fens. And walking towards the sea you will always be told +you have come to the wrong place, you must go a little further, +and then you will find the Fen country! But still, take the +Fens as we know them, extending from Peterborough to Cambridge, +and down by Boston nearly to the Humber.</p> +<p>I will confine my observations to that which most comes within +my own knowledge, that district of the Fens known as the Bedford +Level, called the South, the Middle, and the North Level. +From the beginning of Crowland on the North, down to, say, the +Middle by March and Lynn, and the South down to Cambridge. +In the year 1637 a Charter was passed by Charles I. for the +improvement of that country, and we form some notion of what it +must have been—the weary waste of waters it must have +been—<a name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +24</span>from the preamble of the Charter of Incorporation. +It is described as being generally covered with water, of little +advantage to mankind, except yielding some few river fish and +water fowl, that is when you may catch them, and on lucky days +you may shoot wild ducks. Adventurers had endeavoured to +make lines of meadows, which had made such progress that it was +hoped this place, which had lately presented nothing to the eye +but waters and a few reeds thinly scattered here and there, +might, under Divine mercy, become some of it pleasant pasture for +cattle, with many houses belonging to the inhabitants. That +seemed to have been the extreme notion of what could be made of +that country in the way of production. Going on to the year +1830, when the last history of the Bedford Level was written by +Mr. Samuel Wells, well known as the Register of the Corporation, +he speaks of it seventy-five years ago as a matter of +congratulation that at that time, when they had improved it +sufficiently to grow oats and cole seed, that the cultivation of +wheat had begun to extend itself into the Fen country. He +spoke of it almost as a novelty, and says that the Corporation, +soon after its formation, had interfered to prevent the +inhabitants, occupiers, and owners of property from improving and +draining by mills. He says that the system of drainage by +mills was abandoned in consequence of the result of the suit to +prevent it being favourable to the Corporation.</p> +<p>However, in a short time, after many struggles, the Level +becoming so inundated by the choking of interior drains, the +defective state of the rivers, and neglected improvement of +outfalls, the Corporation found it impossible to resist the +importunity of the country to resort to artificial drainage, and +therefore waived their objection, and allowed a return of the +mill system. The mill system up to 1830 consisted simply of +working a machine by wind to lift the water out of some embanked +portion of the Fens into a drain at a higher level, to conduct it +to one of the main drains of the Corporation to the outfall in +the sea. Seventy years ago, Mr. Wells tells us, in <a +name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 25</span>the whole +district of the Bedford Level—350,000 acres—there +were only five steam engines, one being in the parish of +Newboro’, put up on the enclosuse. He says there was +a general opinion that steam drainage would be further +prosecuted, but this depended upon the finances of the district, +and he goes on to say many intelligent Fenmen indulged the hope +of acquiring a natural drainage, when the result of the work now +undertaken, in a greater or a less degree on all three levels, +can be fully understood and ascertained. The author, +however, says he cannot rank himself amongst the number of those +sanguine persons. He thought it great progress to get five +steam engines, and hoping they would get more, he, as an +intelligent Fenman, thought it was as much as he could +anticipate.</p> +<p>I think in the year 1827 or 1828 one of those works, the Nene +outfall, had been undertaken, the object of which was to make the +channel to the sea through the high and shifting sands, which +were at the entrance of the Wash, through which the waters of the +Nene found their way to the sea. It was carried out. +I think Mr. Tycho Wing was the great inaugurator and Sir Jno. +Rennie the engineer. It was so thoroughly successful that +it at once allowed the interior drainage of the country to be +vastly improved, and not only so, but up to the present time, by +the operation of the Nene Outfall Act, no less than 5,800 acres +of land have been actually reclaimed from the sea, the value of +which is at least from £40 to £50 per acre. Not +only was the Fen district materially improved, but a tract of +country equal to a large parish was obtained, the value of which +alone would, in a measure, repay all the expense of the +undertaking. Then they went on, following the success of +that, to get the North Level Act in 1830. The effect of +that was that water mills and steam mills disappeared, and they +now have natural drainage by the water finding its way by +gravitation to the sea.</p> +<p>In 1840 a similar work was begun in the Middle Level, and they +now have natural drainage in nearly the whole of that +Level. The only exception is about Whittlesey <a +name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>Mere, where +they have a steam pump and a steam water-wheel to carry away the +floods. What was the effect of that? In the first +place a tax was put on. In the Middle Level and North Level +the yearly tax may be taken at about 8s. 6d. or 9s. per acre +altogether. It sounds a very large sum where the land +itself, in many instances, was worth next to nothing before, but +the effect has been that in that district, I am not exaggerating +when I say, leaving the tax out of the question, that is, after +putting the tax on the land and comparing it to what it was +before, the land is worth double, and, in many instances, treble, +and where land without the tax was worth £10 an acre, it is +now worth £20 or £30. I have had through my +hands deeds of an estate in the Fen. It contained 200 +acres. In 1824 it was sold for £1,155; in 1829 for +£1,880. In 1882, notwithstanding the time of +depression, it was sold for £5,000, without any special +bargain. Just think of the increase in the value of the +country in consequence of what has been done, and I think you +will see at once why the district has required railway +accommodation.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p26b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"City wooden bridge over the Nene. Replaced 1872. Old Photo by +William Ball, Peterborough" +title= +"City wooden bridge over the Nene. Replaced 1872. Old Photo by +William Ball, Peterborough" +src="images/p26s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>Mr. Wells speaks of the “Intelligent +Fenmen.” I believe in their intelligence! In +their Parliamentary battles they are as warlike as people can be +in protecting the valuable interests of which they are the +custodians, and counsel in Parliamentary committees have often +said: “How well those men understand their business; how +ready they are, and what talent they show in stating and +maintaining their cause.” That is rather a +digression, but it accounts very much, I think, for the great +changes in this part of the country to which we belong.</p> +<p>Now let me endeavour to show the changes in Peterborough +proper. I will supply an omission, with an apology to my +old friend, the old Town Bridge. I am ashamed to find that +in my previous notes I had omitted to say anything about +it. That was rather extraordinary, because I had my mind on +it, and when I first came from Northampton my first acquaintance +with Peterborough must have been “over that +bridge.” There is an old proverb which says +“Find no fault <a name="page29"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 29</span>with the bridge which carries you +over.” With every disposition to be charitable, that +is the only good thing I can say of the old Bridge. It +carried me over, and there was no instance that it ever fell in, +but there was always a fear that it would fall, and everybody +thought it ought to fall, but it did not, and I mention this +because I think our new Bridge is a striking instance of the +public spirit of the inhabitants of Peterborough and the +neighbourhood in subscribing the cost of one-half of it, and also +of the fairness and liberality which the county authorities +displayed in meeting the inhabitants in assisting to get a new +bridge—a credit to the district—rather than patch up +that shabby, ramshackle concern, which, patched from time to +time, might have outlived another hundred years, and a suspicion +that it would fall, but never actually falling.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"> +<a href="images/p28b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"From an Old Print. Sexton Barns. “A Fine Old Building; +an object which vanished when the Railways were made, because now +it is the Site of the G.N. Station.”—Andrew Percival" +title= +"From an Old Print. Sexton Barns. “A Fine Old Building; +an object which vanished when the Railways were made, because now +it is the Site of the G.N. Station.”—Andrew Percival" +src="images/p28s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<p>We will walk up Bridge Street and take a turn round the +outskirts of the town as I knew it years ago. Going past +the toll-bar in Cowgate we come to the building known as Sexton +Barns; probably some of you recollect it, a fine old building; it +was an object that vanished when the railways were made, because +now it is the site of the G.N. Station. There was a +handsome tree near the Crescent, where Peterborough began to +stray into the country; the Crescent had been erected four or +five years before. Opposite was the house where Mrs. Cattel +lived, and then the house where Dr. Skrimshire lived (now Dr. +Keeton’s). Walking a little further, we came to the +Town Mill; very much like the Town Bridge, it had seen better +days and, like the Bridge, it had had a history. It had +been the property of the Dean and Chapter, and, without the +smallest doubt, it came down to them from the Abbot and Convent, +who were the Lords of this district. These town mills were +mills which the largest landowners kept for the accommodation of +their tenants, who were thereby provided with the means of +grinding their corn at a small cost, but were compelled to use +them and pay grist to the millers, and the old law books contain +much on the subject. Its need passed away, the <a +name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 30</span>mill got into +private hands; it seems to have become worse and worse, and at +last it was burnt down, and we know it no more, the very site +having been utilised in an exchange of property for the erection +of the present King’s School in Park Road.</p> +<p>On the opposite side is the Union Workhouse, built about 1834 +or 1835. It has been very much beautified, but it is not a +handsome building now. It has had a new front or +facing. I may mention in passing that I recollect at one +time there was a persistent cry made by some portion of the Press +against the new Poor Law, against the hardship of separating man +and wife, and so on, but never was so persistent an attempt made +in that part of a portion of the Press with such signal failure +at the time, although since come to pass where desirable. +The new Poor Law took the place of one that was probably ruining +the country, and is, in these later days, itself under +review.</p> +<p>We then walk along the road back towards Peterborough, and we +find the Gaol and Sessions House. This Gaol was built in +1840. There was a fight between the Dean and Chapter, and +their Lessee, and the Magistrates about the enormous price asked +for it, and a jury was appointed, but a price of two or three +times more than was paid at that time for the land has been paid +since for land. If anyone had it to sell now at the same +price he would be very happy.</p> +<p>Between the Gaol and the Workhouse there is a nice +quiet-looking residence (Mr. Noble’s). It was, till +recently, devoted to the supply of milk, but it was built as a +public house, put up by a brewery in order to supply +accommodation for people who resorted to the Sessions House at +the weekly meetings of the Magistrates, and at the Quarter +Sessions. There was a temperance wit of the day who said, +“No, it is put there to show the close and intimate +connection between the gin shop, the gaol, and the +workhouse.” We will go back to the town, the whole of +that known as Newtown, long before the railways, between 1815 and +1833, had been erected, so that it was, strictly and literally, +“Newtown.”</p> +<p><a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>We then +pass Squire’s Brewery at the entrance to Lincoln Road, +where the Liberal Club and Masonic Hall now stand, and we go to +Boroughbury; all beyond the malting formed part of Squire’s +Brewery, going past what is known as the “Square +Pond.” The houses there, including a large part of +the Catholic Church and other buildings, are actually built upon +that which was, in 1833 (and many years afterwards), covered with +water. I was intimate with Mr. Buckle, who succeeded Mr. +Squire in that brewery, and I was permitted to fish in the pond +as often as I pleased. I have stood upon that spot which is +now a public road and have caught pike and eels, and used to have +very capital sport there. In the winter time it was a +favourite resort, not thrown open to the public altogether, but +still, with great liberality, it was allowed to be used for +skating. I was very unlucky one day. It was just +after a gentleman had bought the house, afterwards Mrs. +Willoughby’s (now shops erected by Mr. W. D. Nichols), and +the grounds about it, was walking in his grounds, when he saw me +pull out a large pike, and he was so enchanted with it, he +thought it would be a great benefit to his property, and to my +disgust, but the pleasure of Mr. Buckle, he bought the pond and +merged it into his private grounds. I never caught any pike +there again!</p> +<p>Passing the outskirts of the town, we pass the great Tithe +Barn, Boroughbury, an interesting and attractive specimen of +antiquity and a good specimen of that kind of barn. You go +up that junction of Lincoln Road to Dogsthorpe, and there past +the last house until you come to two or three cottages, then +belonging to a retired tailor, named Mitchell, and people had +been profane enough to christen those cottages “Cabbage +Row.” What connection there is between a tailor and +cabbage, I don’t know.</p> +<p>Crossing the fields now laid out by the great roads of the +Land Company, and which at that time were the most secluded +fields around Peterborough, and going down Crawthorne Lane you +came to a junction—a <a name="page32"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 32</span>little lane at the back of +Boroughbury, now a wide street behind St. Mark’s Villas, +which runs up to Park Road, and there four roads met, where there +was a little tombstone which was known as the “Girls’ +Grave.” A girl was buried there, with a stake through +her body, without Christian burial. The place was very well +known, and for long remained in the midst of a potato garden +belonging to one of the cottages there.</p> +<p>You go as the crow flies to a place called Frog Hall, in front +of St. Mary’s Vicarage, one of the cottages remained till +1904, and the place had a very unsavoury reputation. It was +inhabited by squatters, gipsies, and travellers, and was one of +the least desirable parts in that neighbourhood. Then came +a row of cottages known as Burton’s Row, where Peterborough +attempted to travel past its boundaries and get into the +country.</p> +<p>Going back, we come to the Cemetery, but at that time all were +grass fields let out as accommodation ground, and quite +secluded. A little further on were the Gas Works. Now +they <span class="GutSmall">ARE</span> Gas Works. When I +came they were, as compared with the present, in about the same +proportion as a small kettle to a large steam engine +boiler. A gentleman named Malam—a Hull man—used +to supply all the little towns in the country, and used to +contract with the inhabitants to supply gas for them. There +was no Act of Parliament, or anything of that sort, but +permission from the Local Authorities to break up the streets and +roads was all that was required, and he chanced it. I think +Mr. Sawyer used to give as much time as he could spare from his +own business, until he became, as the town increased, by +purchase, the owner of the works, and he then gave his whole time +and attention to them, and a very nice property it developed into +by the time the present company took it off Mr. Sawyer’s +hands.</p> +<p>That is the history of gas in Peterborough. This brings +us back to the Long Causeway and the Market Place. Not the +market now, as I recollect it! Up to the year 1848 the +farmers attending the market used to <a name="page33"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 33</span>cool their heels in the open air in +front of the Town Hall, hot or cold, wet or dry, rain or snow, +blowing or still, there they stood, till the Theatre, now the +Corn Exchange (since largely added to), became vacant, and it +occurred to some agricultural gentleman that they could be much +more comfortable in every way if they could form a company, and +they did so, and I think no one will doubt that is an +improvement. On the Long Causeway, the Cattle Market was +the principal institution of the place, and I will tell you +why. On Saturdays that place was wholly given up to +them. There they were; nobody paid anything; anybody who +had cows or horses to sell brought them there. They became +the proprietors of the street for that day.</p> +<p>Our widest and best street was spoilt; because if there is one +thing more certain than another it is that the female mind most +intensely abhors anything approaching contact with horned +animals. Somehow or other, it seems to disturb that +equanimity which appears to be utterly indispensable to a lady +when she is going what she calls “shopping,” and it +would take away all her ideas to think she was going to meet a +restless-looking cow or a doubtful looking ox. It takes +away all notion of colour, shape, and measure, or whether the +thing will wash or not. The consequence was, the Long +Causeway was practically abandoned on market days, and it was not +much more used on other days for shopping purposes, because in +anything like changeable or damp weather the atmosphere of the +street was what I have heard ladies describe (not meaning to be +complimentary) as “smelly.” Therefore, +naturally, there was great rejoicing among the inhabitants +generally when that street was restored to a cleanly wholesome +state by the construction of the Cattle Market.</p> +<p>The Wednesday Cattle Market had a very peculiar growth. +It was set up without the smallest authority about 1845 or 1846 +by an old gentleman named Dean, who was a retired farmer, and an +enterprising auctioneer named Dowse, who kept the +“Greyhound.” They suggested that fat stock +should be brought, and it came more and <a +name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>more, until +it grew into that excellent stock market, which became one of the +best in the Kingdom. There was no foundation for it but +that of custom. When the new market was proposed, the +farmers invited the then authorities, the Improvement +Commissioners, to construct it for them, but they made their bow +and said, “If you want a market, make it for +yourselves.” It was made by a limited company, and it +has since fallen into the hands of the authorities, and Broadway +constructed through it.</p> +<p>We have another market which has grown up, and that is the +present Wednesday Market on the Market Place, which I think is +one of the greatest curiosities that ever comes under one’s +notice. It does no harm to anyone. I went there +recently, and I saw an extraordinary medley of things exposed for +sale. I wondered at first if they were to be given +away! I could understand anybody wishing to sell them, but +wondered who could wish to buy them. It is one of the +things no one can understand. But it affords the means of +getting rid of most undesirable things, call them furniture, or +anything else! It puts me in mind of a shop in the Market +Place at Great Yarmouth, where they say you may buy +anything. A visitor, a clergyman, was told he could get +anything he wanted. He said, “I want a +pulpit.” “Well,” his friend said, +“go in and try.” He went in and said, “Do +you happen to have a pulpit?” and they said, “Well, +we do happen to have a pulpit.” And I think I have +seen everything in our Wednesday’s Market except +that. I have not seen anything so useful as a pulpit!</p> +<p>I have spoken of our accommodation for the living. What +do we do for the dead? We have the Cemetery, which has been +considerably enlarged since it was first formed in 1852 or 1853, +and the rapid increase of the Cemetery suggests the difficulty of +the disposal of the dead in a creditable and satisfactory manner +with our increasing population. The old burial ground was +opened in the year 1802, and it is one of the peculiarities of +this peculiar place, and of the old jurisdictions here, that the +old Parish Church appears to have had in ancient <a +name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 35</span>times no +burial ground belonging to it, a thing that very seldom happens, +for the burial ground of the Parish of St. John the Baptist was +outside the Minster, which is an extra parochial district. +This remained up to 1802, when the burial ground in Cowgate was +formed. If you go into it sometime (I am very fond of +looking at the tombstones), you will find the oddest +peculiarities of language and literature as inscriptions on the +tombstones, but I cannot say I have ever found much to +admire. You will find a collection of legends which are +common all over the country, commencing with</p> +<blockquote><p>Affliction sore, long time he bore,<br /> +Physicians WAS in vain.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Next to it:</p> +<blockquote><p>Pale consumption gave the silent <span +class="GutSmall">BELOW</span>, etc.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>In our graveyard in Cowgate there is an epitaph upon old Mrs. +Thomas, by which you are informed, that</p> +<blockquote><p>Making carpets and beds she did pursue<br /> +With care and industry is very true,<br /> +The established religion she did profess<br /> +In hopes, through Christ, of Heaven to possess.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Such rubbish as that, under the veto of the present Cemetery +Commissioners, will, I hope, soon disappear. But there is +one in the Cathedral graveyard (the existence of which is not +generally known), on the tombstone memorial of an old family of +this place, and I trust it will not be allowed to +disappear. It is very superior to what they generally +are. It is on the right just as you go through the Arch by +the Deanery, and is to the memory of one of the Richardson +family:</p> +<blockquote><p>Stranger pass by nor idly waste your time<br /> +In bad biography or bitter rhyme;<br /> +For what I am, this cumbrous clay ensures,<br /> +And what I was, is no affair of yours.</p> +</blockquote> +<p>The old gentleman, as you see, has carried his cynical humour +to the grave with him. It was quoted in an article in +“Blackwood’s Magazine” on “Monumental +Inscriptions” a few years since.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page36"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 36</span> +<a href="images/p36b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Peterborough Market Place A.D. 1795. N. Fielding of Stamford. +Specially drawn from a painting in Peterborough Museum" +title= +"Peterborough Market Place A.D. 1795. N. Fielding of Stamford. +Specially drawn from a painting in Peterborough Museum" +src="images/p36s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2><a name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>PART +THE THIRD.</h2> +<p class="gutsumm"><span +class="smcap">Newspapers</span>.—<span +class="smcap">Distemper</span>.—<span +class="smcap">Guildhall</span>.—<span +class="smcap">Hangings</span>.—<span class="smcap">Daring +Burglaries</span>.—<span class="smcap">A Lock-up +Story</span>.—<span class="smcap">An +Alibi</span>.—<span class="smcap">The Mud +Case</span>.—<span class="smcap">When the Railways First +Came</span>.—<span class="smcap">Retrospective</span>.</p> +<p><span class="smcap">In</span> my former Notes I alluded to the +Post Office. Well, the first Post Office I recollect was a +little room about 10ft. square—I think it has been altered +since—in one of those houses at the back of the +“White Lion” gates. An old gentleman lived +there who was Postmaster, and I think he was assisted, being +rather infirm, by his daughter, and I have been told it was the +amusement of a little grandchild or a little boy accustomed to +visit him, that by way of a treat he was allowed to catch letters +in his pinafore, and as a grand treat he was allowed to stamp +them. At that time the Post Office establishment consisted +of the Postmaster, the lady who assisted him, and the letter +carrier, who, as some of you recollect, was Mrs. Waterfield, a +tidy woman, who had a little basket in which she carried +letters. By degrees the establishment got on. You +will bear in mind that at that time we were not troubled with +Post Office Orders. There was no way of conveying 5s. or +6s. in stamps, or by order, from one part of the country to +another. The present Post Office consists of palatial +buildings, since their enlargement in 1904, and great +departmental accommodation, the smallest room of which is larger +than that old Post Office altogether. It would not do now +to catch letters in a pinafore, as their number is many millions +a month. There are telegraph messages, Post Office Orders, +and Savings Bank business. The Postmaster and old woman +have grown into a Postmaster at £500 a year, <a +name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>Chief Clerk, +a very important personage, the Assistant Superintendent (Postal +Department), the Assistant Superintendent (Telegraph Department), +7 controllers, and a staff numbering altogether nearly 350, with +66 sub-Post Offices—a pretty good number. A great +deal of the business is forwarding mails passing through +Peterborough, as a convenient centre for such purposes.</p> +<p>Then, as to newspapers, we used to have once a week the +“Stamford Mercury,” a very good paper, full of +advertisements and local news, but the “Stamford +Mercury” was always conducted on this principle: +“Opinion is quite free in this country, and we are going to +dictate to nobody,” so you never have editorial articles in +the “Stamford Mercury.” They used sometimes to +select leaders and bits of intelligence from other papers, +generally of one way of thinking. Then we used to have the +London papers. They cost 7d. each. London papers used +to come down the day after publication, after they had gone the +round of the club houses, the hotels, and the London eating +houses. Those that had been in the eating houses used +sometimes to come in rather a greasy form. Now we can have +the “Times” on our breakfast table, or earlier if +wished. After a time some gentlemen thought we were very +benighted in Peterborough, and two of them, very much in advance +of their age, started what we should now call a Society paper of +a very pronounced type called the “Peterborough +Argus.” The first one heard of it was, after one or +two publications, that a solicitor had inflicted upon the +responsible Editor a sound thrashing for a libel. The case +went to the Northampton Assizes, and although the verdict was not +quite “served him right,” the publisher got damages +of very small amount. It was one of the most scurrilous +papers in its way, and at length it became intolerable.</p> +<p>We now have in Peterborough four newspapers, besides a most +ample supply of daily newspapers. It has been very +interesting to witness the growth of Peterborough newspapers, +particularly that of the <span class="smcap">Advertiser</span> +(the first in the field—in 1854) from its small two pages +to the very satisfactory form in <a name="page39"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 39</span>which it now appears, with its +mid-weekly auxiliary, the <span +class="smcap">Citizen</span>. There was also a difficulty +as to supply of books. There was a book club, the Church +Porch Club, existing fifty years ago, and one or two others, but +somehow or other literature did not thrive very much in +Peterborough. One gentleman retired from the book club, and +when asked why he gave up he said “The fact is I cannot eat +suppers any longer.” It does not strike me as a good +reason to give up reading, because one would have thought he +could have read better without his supper. However, they +were not then so badly off for newspapers as they were 150 years +ago.</p> +<p>I mentioned just now the “Stamford Mercury.” +I have before me a copy of the “Stamford Mercury” a +friend has kindly lent me, that I might extract a little valuable +comparison. What should we think if our intellectual food +came from sources such as that we got, for instance, in the year +1730, as seen in the “Stamford Mercury.” It +then had a most aspiring title, as you will see:—“The +<span class="smcap">Stamford Mercury</span>, being Historical and +Political Observations on the Transactions of Europe, Together +with Remarks on Trade.” Here is this little +sheet—a good-sized sheet of letter paper, one-eighth taken +up by the title and an illustrated figure of +“Mercury.” Another eighth is literally taken up +by “Bills of Mortality of London for the week or +month,” and from it I wonder what some of the diseases of +that day were. One person died of +“Headmouldshot,” one of “Horse Shoehead,” +and amongst other things there is very large mortality attributed +to “teeth.” Another eighth of that paper is +taken up with price lists, giving the rate of exchange between +London and Madrid, also between London and Cadiz, etc. Then +prices of goods at “Bear Key.” Another eighth +is given up to observations upon the affairs of Europe: +“Our Government has received advice from Florence that +Princess Dowager Palatine has renounced all her pretentions to +the succession in favour of Don Carlos,” and such pieces as +that, and then the other half is taken up with +advertisements. It is a curious thing that in one <a +name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>advertisement +we are told “To Let, the Three Tuns, an old accustomed inn +on the Market Place at Peterborough, Northamptonshire,” +that being the site where the present Stamford and Spalding Bank +now stands. That was in 1730.</p> +<p>Twenty years later, in 1755, there is an Ipswich paper, and to +show how history repeats itself, for the consolation of our +farming friends, we are told that amongst other Acts just passed +was one to continue several laws relating to the distemper then +raging among the horned cattle in the Kingdom. There is +nothing new under the sun. We have had it before, and no +doubt they said in that time legislation very much interfered +with the markets. Another curious thing in the paper is +this: “The ship the Royal George was put out of the Dock to +go to Spithead.” Was this the Royal George that +“went down with twice 400 men”? Public news was +important just then. There are details as to watching the +French Fleet. Those were very anxious times, but the +peculiarity of those papers is that they gave you so little of +what may be called local news. Our own local papers give +you ample City News and a Complete Chronicle of the affairs of +villages; but you may look through those papers and find nothing +approaching local news excepting this:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“By a letter from Thirsk in Yorkshire we +learn that very lately a terrible shock of earthquake was felt, +inasmuch that several large rocks were removed to considerable +distances; several large grown elms were swallowed up by the +earth so that no part of them remained to be seen but the +uppermost branches. A man driving a cart near the place, +the horses were so much frightened by the shock that they broke +loose from the carriage and ran away. The horses seem to +have behaved very sensibly.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Then there is an advertisement which strikes one as rather +peculiar, because I think if some of the ladies now-a-days +happened of this misfortune you would hardly put it in the +paper:—</p> +<blockquote><p>“Lost out of Tom Shave’s London +caravan between London and Ipswich (but supposed to be dropped +between here and Colchester) a small black trunk, containing a +pink silk gown, with <a name="page41"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 41</span>a pink sarsenet lining, a blue silk +quilted petticoat, a pink silver lined child’s hat, a white +chip hat with pink ribbons, a pink silk skirt, two pair of white +cotton stockings, two shifts, two lawn handkerchiefs and +owner’s other things, with a hoop petticoat tied on the +outside.”</p> +</blockquote> +<p>Now, we have lived in the days of the crinoline, but I never +saw one tied on the outside!</p> +<p>To return to the City of Peterborough, we come to the Town +Hall. When I first knew it, it was used as a Sessions +House, but it did not belong to the magistrates, the feoffees +being the owners. It was also used as a County Court until +the present new building was erected. Speaking of the +County Courts, for many years there was no summary jurisdiction +for settling small debts and quarrels, and one really wonders how +the world got on, but one feels certain there must have been a +vast deal of injustice for the want of that which really, +comparatively speaking, now brings justice home to +everybody’s own door. Just think in 1810 how +difficult it was to get.</p> +<p>The Magistrates of the Liberty of Peterborough had a general +commission of gaol delivery. There are people living in +Peterborough who recollect a man being hanged on Butcher’s +Piece, against the North Bank, under sentence by the local +magistrates, and I should imagine there was as much heard of it +as there is news given in this scrap of print. In 1820 an +Act of Parliament was passed enabling Magistrates at local +jurisdictions to commit persons charged with capital offences for +trial at the Assizes. In the Peterborough Court no counsel +used to appear, and just imagine what a sensation would be +excited if we were now told by our Court of Quarter Sessions that +by authority of their Charter they were going to hang a +man. I recollect when I was a boy at school, just before I +came to Peterborough, I have been into the Old Bailey, and I have +seen put into the dock at the close of the Sessions 15 or 16 men +and women, all of whom were sentenced to be executed. Sheep +stealing, horse stealing, cow stealing, forgery, robbing a +dwelling house to a certain amount <a name="page42"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 42</span>were all at that time capital +offences, and you would see in the London newspapers that the +Recorder of the City had been down to Windsor to make his report +to the King, and that there were so many cases of death +sentences, all of which his Majesty was graciously pleased to +respite, except some who were to be executed as a deterrent +example.</p> +<p>There is a novel of Theodore Hook’s which gives a most +striking account, partly humorous, and partly tragic, of the +proceedings and sentences at the Old Bailey in those days. +One recollects in the course of his professional experience many +cases of interest. Many striking cases of daring burglaries +have been dealt with in Peterborough. At Glinton a house +was broken into by five or six people, most convincing evidence +was given of their violence and intimidation, and the coolness of +the witnesses on the trial of the prisoners. The witnesses, +as they very frequently are, were ordered out of Court, and as +they were called they pointed out and identified particular +prisoners. After this had been done two or three times, the +gentlemen in the dock changed their positions, thinking that +probably the witnesses had been tutoring one another, and that +they would then defeat them; but it did not answer, and it being +pointed out to the jury, it sealed their conviction, convincing +them that the witnesses were accurate, and not tutored. The +same thing was mentioned in the papers a few days ago as having +occurred when the prisoners were in the dock in Dublin for the +Phœnix Park murders. Another case occurred where a +gang who had been the terror of the district, all strangers, +broke into a house, the Thirty Acre Farm, at Fengate, and +striking coolness and courage was shown by a girl who was pulled +out of her bed and threatened with death to compel her to open +her box and produce her money. She afterwards identified +her assailants, some by their voices even. Then there was +the robbery at Orton Stanch. The money taken by the woman +there for tolls was brought to Peterborough weekly, and one night +the place was broken into and the cash box stolen.</p> +<p><a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>There +was a man called Jack Hall who had settled in this part of the +country, and was connected with others of Yaxley, who committed +several robberies in the district. Hall turned informer; he +was arrested for something else, and gave information, and +Stretton and a man named Humberston were taken separately. +They were first allowed to see, but not speak to, each other, and +were put into separate cells. Mr. Preston, who used to keep +the lock-up at Fletton, locked the door of the passage dividing +the cells, but was careful to leave a policeman in the passage, +where he could hear any conversation between the prisoners. +Towards morning he heard one signal, the other “Hist! Jack, +what are you in for?” “The Stanch,” was +the reply. The other said, “Jack Hall’s split +upon us.” “Never mind” was the answer, +“we must deny it altogether.” This conversation +was proved at the trial at the assizes, and was relied upon to +confirm the evidence. The prisoners’ counsel +complained of the way these men had been trapped, but Lord +Justice Campbell, who tried them, pointed out that they were not +asked to say what they did, and they were convicted and sentenced +to transportation for life.</p> +<p>One other case, the robbery at the Vicarage. The thief +was met coming away. He was described as a nice, +gentlemanly looking man. A young policeman met him in the +street, and that thief had the impudence to walk and talk to +him. They walked up to the G.N. Station together, and the +policeman thinking no harm, the burglar got clear away, but he +was apprehended afterwards with others. There was a defence +of an alibi set up for one, and men were brought from Northampton +to declare that he was engaged at a tea garden there at the +time. The jury did not believe them. The same defence +is one of the most common. If proved, it is, of course, +most conclusive, but it is very easy to set up this defence and +get it sworn to. It was once used by a man charged with +stealing a horse, who was found riding away upon its back. +It occurs in Pickwick, when Mr. Weller says: “Samivel, why +wasn’t there an alibi?”</p> +<p><a name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>There +have not been many civil cases of any great interest, but a few +breaches of promise, and one rather peculiar case, known as the +Mud case, tried on the Midland Circuit. It was a question +of right of navigation through what is now Mr. Roberts’ +granary against the river, and it was stated that barge after +barge had been brought up there. It was shown that it was +physically impossible for a boat to go up there, as there was an +obstruction rendering it impossible for any boat to pass through +it. That trial lasted for years. I was at Northampton +during one of the trials. There was another case between +two tradesmen, one of whom had been thrown amongst some +implements, and in the first trial the verdict was for the +defendant; in the next the plaintiff got one shilling +damages.</p> +<p>I have previously given particulars about the rejoicings we +had when the railways came here. Just let me add one or two +words to show it was not all gain when the railways came. +You used, if you wanted to go to London, to get up early, and, by +the Eastern Counties express, start at 6 o’clock, and be +four or five hours going. In going there and coming back +you had done a hard day’s work. I used to find it +necessary to be called in good time, and recollect asking John +Frisby, who used to run after the mail, to call me. Instead +of doing so a little before six, he called me at three. +“John,” I said, “do you know the +time?” “Yes,” he said, “I thought I +had better be in good time.” When the railways were +just made, there was very little difference in the time taken to +go to London by the G.N.R. or G.E.R. A good fight took +place between the two companies. You could run by +Northampton for 5s., instead of 11s. or 12s., by the Great +Northern, and I was once beguiled with a lady in going the cheap +route. We started at seven and arrived in London at two in +the afternoon. When we got there we were so tired we could +not go out that day at all. We had return tickets, but gave +them up and came back by the G.N. The Great Northern put a +stop to it by running the direct journey there and back for +5s. I <a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p. +45</span>tried that, and, coming home, was pulled in by the +window, the train being overcrowded, and sat not upon the seat, +but the arms between, and experienced for several hours something +like you have seen described after a man has been tarred and +feathered, in riding a rail, or the sensation of the monk who +went into the barber’s shop, and instead of paying the +usual twopence, wanted to be shaved for the love of God. +“Certainly,” said the barber; and he shaved the monk +with cold water, a blunt razor, and a very short allowance of +soap. At the conclusion of which the monk said, +“Heaven defend me from ever being shaved again for the love +of God.” He came to the conclusion, as I did, that it +was better to have things at the ordinary price and have them in +the regular way.</p> +<p>Washington Irving tells the story of how one of the early +settlers in the State of New York, not a very industrious person, +walked out on the Catskill Mountains on a shooting expedition, +and met with a party who were playing at skittles. They +invited him to have some whisky and water, which he accepted, and +immediately fell asleep, and at the close of half a century +awoke. His faculties were in precisely the same condition +as when he fell asleep, but the world had progressed around +him. He went home and found those whom he had left young +were grown old, and many of his neighbours had vanished from the +scene. He had gone asleep under the Monarchy and awoke +under the American Republic. That is the story, the +humorous side of which is admirably painted by Washington +Irving. It seems to me that in one point of view, at least +when we exercise that wonderful faculty of memory that power of +abstracting ourselves from what has passed and is passing before +us, and carry ourselves back to the days of our youth, and for a +few moments ignore all that has since passed around us that one +is somewhat in the condition of Washington Irving’s hero of +the tale in America! The history of a small city involves +the history and the progress of the nation. The population +of the country has increased relatively as the population of our +own City has increased. The same causes which have led <a +name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 46</span>to our +improvement have led to the improvement and the advancement in +wealth, honour, and happiness of the increased population which +these circumstances have brought into being. Nothing, I +think, could be more distressing than to have our progress +blotted out. That is not the way in which a wise and +merciful Providence deals with his creatures. Our troubles, +our afflictions, the memory of those we have lost, become +pleasant memories. We do not fail to notice the beauty of +the thought that those who are taken from us are not lost, but +only gone before. And so it is in the life of a +nation. If one were depicting the life of the nation for +the last 50 year’s one would speak of the happiness that +the great bulk of the population enjoyed.</p> +<p>I have lived through the Chartist Riots, the Irish Famine, and +the Cotton Famine, which tried the endurance of our artisans in +the manufacturing districts, and caused in the minds of statesmen +and of every thinking man the great apprehensions as to its +bearing upon the industry and wealth and happiness of the +country. I have lived through periods of war—the +Crimean War, when the thoughts of everyone were directed to our +Army in distress barely holding its own through that dreadful +winter—and the Indian Mutiny. All these incidents in +the life of a nation answer to the troubles and afflictions in +the life of the individual. We have survived the troubles +which faced us, and how can I do more than say that thoughts such +as these remind us of our duties as Citizens, as individuals, as +members of the great community, showing us how much we have to be +thankful for and how much we are dependent on circumstances.</p> + +<div class="gapspace"> </div> +<p style="text-align: center">FINIS.</p> +<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page47"></a><span +class="pagenum">p. 47</span> +<a href="images/p47b.jpg"> +<img alt= +"Map of Whittlesey Mere, from “Fenland Notes & +Queries.”" +title= +"Map of Whittlesey Mere, from “Fenland Notes & +Queries.”" +src="images/p47s.jpg" /> +</a></p> +<h2>FOOTNOTES</h2> +<p><a name="footnote5"></a><a href="#citation5" +class="footnote">[5]</a> The pagination in the book cannot +be followed for the illustrations in some cases as they appear on +their own pages in the middle of random paragraphs. In such +cases the illustrations have been moved onto the following page, +and the pages numbers in the list of illustrations have been +changed accordingly. The filenames for the illustrations +are their original page numbers.—DP.</p> +<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES ON OLD PETERBOROUGH***</p> +<pre> + + +***** This file should be named 45059-h.htm or 45059-h.zip****** + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/4/5/0/5/45059 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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