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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Notes on Old Peterborough, by Andrew Percival
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Notes on Old Peterborough
+
+
+Author: Andrew Percival
+
+
+
+Release Date: March 5, 2014 [eBook #45059]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES ON OLD PETERBOROUGH***
+
+
+Transcribed from the 1905 Geo. C. Caster edition by David Price, email
+ccx074@pglaf.org
+
+ [Picture: Andrew Percival (Taken in the year 1901)]
+
+ May be had bound in Cloth, Price 1/6.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+
+ Notes on
+ Old Peterborough,
+
+
+ BY
+ ANDREW PERCIVAL, S.S.C.,
+
+ With Eight Illustrations,
+
+ INCLUDING
+
+ Portrait of the Author.
+
+ Arranged, Published, and Sold by Special Permission
+ of the Author,
+
+ BY
+ The PETERBOROUGH ARCHÆOLOGICAL SOCIETY.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative graphic]
+
+ ONE SHILLING.
+
+ [Picture: Decorative graphic]
+
+ PETERBOROUGH:
+ GEO. C. CASTER, MARKET PLACE.
+ 1905.
+
+ [_Reprinted from type of the_ “_Peterborough Advertiser_.”]
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+The Reminiscences of a Citizen whose memory goes back in detail for over
+Seventy Years, as in the case of the Contributor of these Notes, cannot
+fail to be of paramount interest and of antiquarian value. Especially in
+this case, where the distinguished Narrator has held a very foremost
+place in the Professional life and Voluntary Public Service of the City.
+Additionally interesting must they prove in the case of a City which has
+developed from a comparatively small parish into a populous industrial,
+commercial and residential Centre. The Peterborough Archæological
+Society has in these circumstances undertaken the duty of preserving and
+circulating in compact form the very valuable personal Recollections of
+Mr. Andrew Percival. In doing so the Society acknowledges its
+indebtedness to that gentleman for his ready permission to entrust them
+to its charge. The writer of this Preface was present at the old
+Wentworth Rooms, at Peterborough, in the years 1883–4, when the addresses
+which formed the basis of this chronicle were delivered. He thus felt a
+continuity of interest when the manuscript was recently committed to him
+to prepare, with illustrations, for advance publication in the
+“Peterborough Advertiser,” in September, 1905, and in bringing up to
+date, during the indisposition of the Author, several of the
+chronological and statistical references. Otherwise the Notes remain
+exactly as set down and corrected by Mr. Percival. The Society expresses
+its thanks to Mr. A. C. Taylor for the use of the very excellent photo of
+Mr. Percival which forms the frontispiece; to Mr. T. N. Green (Ball &
+Co.) for the Photo of the Old Bridge; and to Mr. Geo. C. Caster for the
+use of “Whittlesey Mere” block, from “Fenland Notes & Queries”; most of
+the others having been specially taken and engraved for this Publication.
+
+ F. L.
+
+_Peterborough_, _Oct._, _1905_.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX.
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. {5}
+
+Portrait of Mr. Andrew Percival Title Page
+Peterborough Market Place in 1836 9
+Sedan Chair 19
+Cottages in Paston 20
+The Old Bridge over the Nene 27
+Sexton Barns 29
+Peterborough Market Place in 1795 36
+Map of Whittlesey Mere 47
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ PAGE.
+Advertisement, A peculiar 40
+An Alibi 43
+
+Balls 19
+Barns 29, 31
+Beacon, A lighted 22
+Beadle, The City 16
+Breweries 10
+Bridge, The old wooden 27
+Buckle’s Brewery 10, 11
+Burglaries 43
+Burial at Cross Roads 32
+Burial Ground, The Old 34
+Butcher’s Piece, The 41
+
+Cabbage Row 31
+Calculating Boy 10
+Castor, Old system of farming at 22
+Cattle Market 33
+Cemetery, The 34
+Coaches, Mail 11, 12, 13
+Constables, Parish 17
+Contrast, A 13
+Cost of Travelling 12
+
+Distemper, The 40
+Draining the Great Level 23
+
+Epitaphs 35
+Executions 41
+Extraordinary Medley 34
+
+Fairs 19
+Fen around Peterborough 23
+Fen Drainage 23, 25
+Fen Taxes 27
+Franking Letters 16
+Frisby’s Feat 12
+Frog Hall 32
+
+Gaols 17, 30
+Gas Works started 32
+Gates, Toll 9
+God’s Acre 34
+Guildhall, The 41
+
+Hangings 41
+Hostelry, The Thorpe Road 30
+
+Infirmary, The 10
+Intelligent Fenmen 27
+
+Jaunt through the City 29
+
+Ladies and the Cattle 33
+Land, Improvement in value of 27
+Level, The Great 23
+Level, Draining the Great 23
+Lock-up Story 43
+
+Mail Coaches 11
+Market, Cattle 33
+,, The old 33
+„ Wednesday 34
+Mere, Whittlesey 19
+Mill, The Old 14, 27, 29
+Mill system of Draining 25
+Mud Case, The 44
+
+Nene Outfall, The 25
+Newspapers 38, 39, 40
+Newtown 31
+Notorious Family, A 17
+
+Oasis in the Desert 21
+
+Packets, River 15
+Parish Constables 17
+Paston 22
+Ponds 31
+Poor House 31
+Poor Law 30
+Post Office 37
+Postal Charges 15
+
+Railways 11, 14, 44
+Railways and Earl Fitzwilliam 14
+Retrospective 45
+River Packets 15
+Robbery at the Vicarage 43
+
+Sedan Chairs 19
+Sexton Barns 29
+Smothering the Cathedral 14
+Snatched from the Sea 25
+
+Tales of the Coaching days 12
+Theatre 17
+Toll Gates 9
+Tombstone Rhymes 35
+Tythe Barn, Boroughbury 31
+
+Value of land improved 27
+
+Whalley, Mr. G. H. 15
+Whittlesey Mere 19
+
+
+
+
+PART THE FIRST.
+
+
+CITY TOLL GATES.—HOW TOLL WAS LEVIED.—THE INFIRMARY.—OLD CITY
+BREWERIES.—THE CALCULATING BOY.—STARTING THE RAILWAYS.—FRISBY’S
+FEAT.—TALES OF THE COACHING DAYS.—TALLY-HO COACH.—A CONTRAST.—A STORY OF
+LORD FITZWILLIAM.—SMOTHERING THE CATHEDRAL.—THE OLD MILL.—SIMPSON’S
+PACKET.—MR. WHALLEY’S JOKE.—POSTAL CHARGES.—FRANKING LETTERS.—THE CITY
+BEADLE.—PARISH CONSTABLES AND GAOL.—A NOTORIOUS FAMILY.—FAIRS.—CITY
+BELLS.—SEDAN CHAIRS.—WHITTLESEY MERE.
+
+WHEN I came to Peterboro’ in Oct., 1833, I think our population was five
+or six thousand. In the month of August I came down to make arrangements
+for my being articled to the late Mr. Gates. I was taken charge of by my
+father, and protected by my sister, and we drove from Northampton, where
+my father was a medical man having an extensive practice, and could only
+spare one day. During the night a most extraordinary storm sprang up.
+We had to go back during that storm. There was an enormous destruction
+of timber on the road between here and Northampton, and in many other
+parts of the country. It was a storm such as very seldom rages in these
+latitudes in the summer months. In one part of the journey was a great
+avenue of trees, a considerable portion of which was destroyed. It was
+the property of a worthy squire, and I remember hearing it remarked, “How
+much Mr. So-and-So will feel the destruction of his avenue.” “Oh dear
+no,” said the person spoken to, “don’t you know that that property is
+settled property, and he has no power of cutting timber, and he will be
+highly delighted. He thinks the avenue is much improved, as it puts a
+very good sum of money into his pocket, which is very welcome to him.”
+You see it is an ill wind that blows nobody good.
+
+[Picture: Peterborough Market Place in the Coaching Days. (From a Print,
+ 1836). “Peterborough has much altered since those days.”—Andrew
+ Percival]
+
+When I got here, the first thing I saw when I looked round the town was
+that it was confined by toll bars. There was a toll bar just over the
+bridge, where the little house since converted into shops then was. At
+the other end of the town, on the Lincoln Road, was another toll bar; on
+the Thorney Road was another, and at the back of Westgate another. Our
+town had four gates drawn across the four entrances; on the road now
+known as Lincoln Road East, then Crawthorne Lane, there was a side bar to
+prevent anyone getting out of the town without paying contributions. One
+enquired what these meant, because within a mile or two on each of the
+main roads you would find another toll bar, at which they duly took toll,
+and the only villages that could get into Peterborough without paying
+toll were Yaxley, Farcet, and Stanground, as the turnpike road toll on
+that road, the old London Road, was near Norman Cross. Otherwise, our
+system was so ingeniously contrived that you could not get into or out of
+Peterborough without paying town toll at the end of the street, which
+were tolls for the pavement. This was rather a peculiar system. I do
+not wish to quote Scripture, but you will recollect the enquiry, “Of whom
+do the Kings of the earth take tribute? Of their own children or of
+strangers, and they said ‘of strangers.’ Then the comment was ‘Then are
+the children free!’”
+
+The system that our forefathers adopted for encouraging communication and
+traffic was this: They put a toll on for their pavements, from the
+payment of which they exempted themselves, and took it from the strangers
+that came into the place. The only exceptions were when the inhabitants
+of the place travelled on Sundays. Toll collectors were then authorised
+to take toll from them, and also from those who hired vehicles in the
+place, the result being if you were an inhabitant of the place, and had
+the luck to keep your carriage or gig or wagon, or whatever it was, you
+might use the pavement as much as you pleased, and pay nothing. But if
+you were a poor person, or could only treat yourself occasionally with
+the luxury of a gig, or were obliged to hire a trap for business, yon
+were immediately taken toll of.
+
+The present Hospital or Infirmary was then a private dwelling-house. The
+Dispensary which existed then was a small house opposite the Old Burial
+Ground, the one now occupied by Mr. Payling, the dentist. After some
+years, it was removed from this place to what is now the Police Station
+in Newtown. Soon after this, the Earl Fitzwilliam purchased the present
+building and presented it to the City, a monument of his appreciation of
+the good that had been done in a small way by the existing buildings, and
+which, I think, in the present arrangements, fully carried out his
+Lordship’s benevolent wishes.
+
+There were two considerable features of Peterborough which have entirely
+disappeared. Where Queen Street and North Street now stand were two
+large breweries, known as Buckle’s Brewery and Squires’s Brewery. They
+were quite institutions of the place, and it always strikes me as a very
+strange thing that they should have entirely disappeared, as one of them
+would have been larger than all the breweries now in Peterborough.
+Buckles’ Brewery was certainly a very remarkable one, and carried on with
+great energy and spirit. There was one peculiarity they had—that some
+friends of the partners could assemble on Easter Monday and spend the
+afternoon in playing at marbles. I have spent pleasant afternoons there
+on Easter Mondays. There were two large tuns or barrels in which the
+beer was kept, one of which was called Mrs. Clarke, and the other the
+Duke of York, to perpetuate a scandal at the time when they were
+constructed. A very hospitable time always followed the game at marbles.
+
+Buckles’ Brewery was the cause of another peculiar circumstance. On one
+occasion there visited the town for the amusement of the people, a
+calculating boy. He went through, his entertainment with great success,
+and at last one of our worthy inhabitants got up and asked the question
+“How many gallons does Mr. Buckles’ great copper hold?” The boy said he
+could not tell. “No; I thought you could not,” was the reply. Our
+worthy citizen had forgotten to give the dimensions of the copper, and
+went away rejoicing over the fact that he had puzzled the calculating
+boy!
+
+He reminds me very much of a story one has heard in connection with our
+own professional experience. A witness was called to prove an assault,
+which consisted in a man having been knocked down by a stone thrown at
+him. The counsel was anxious to ascertain the size of the stone. The
+witness said “do you want to know how big it was?” “Yes,” said the
+counsel. “The size do you mean?” “Yes.” “Well, it was biggish.”
+“Well, I want you to tell me how big it was”! “Well, sir, if you want me
+to tell you how big it was, I should think it was as big as a lump o’
+chalk.” Now, I think the gentleman who put the question about the
+copper, and the witness, must have been very nearly related.
+
+When I arrived in the City, it became very important to me to know how I
+could get away from it. I lived at Northampton. Between Peterborough
+and Northampton there are now eleven trains a day. When I came to
+Peterborough in 1833, and for some years afterwards, the only
+communication between the town of Northampton and the City of
+Peterborough was a one-horse carrier’s cart, which came twice a week, and
+I think the large proportion of its business consisted in carrying
+parcels from the Probate Office at Northampton to the Probate Office at
+Peterborough. For coaches we were pretty well off. Two mails ran
+through Peterborough, the Boston Coach, and the Coach to Hull. We used
+to go shares with the town of Stamford with a London Coach. One of our
+townsmen ran a coach to Stilton daily, where it joined the coach from
+Stamford. At one time that coach carried the letter bag, and on one
+occasion it started without the bag.
+
+There was a man known as “Old John Frisby,” who was not quite “all
+there,” and this man went after the coach with the letter bag, and
+overtook it at Stilton. The poor man was under the impression that he
+had done the State a great service and thought he ought to receive a
+pension, and he daily expected it until his death.
+
+The Mail Coaches were very comfortable for travelling in fine weather,
+and an eight or ten hours’ journey was very pleasant, providing you did
+not ride inside. A journey to London and Edinburgh occupied two whole
+days and nights. The expense of such a mode of travelling was very
+great, being five or six times as much as the ordinary first class
+railway fare. Every fifty or sixty miles the Coachman would touch his
+hat and say, “I leave you here, sir,” which meant that you were to give
+him a fee. The guard would do the same, and when your luggage was put
+up, the ostler came to you. If you travelled post or in “a yellow and
+two,” as it was called, you had to pay 1s. 6d. a mile, beside the toll
+bars, and 3d. a mile for the post boy, as well as something more that he
+always expected. The 3d. a mile for the post boy, as his regular fee, is
+about equal to the highest first class railway fare that is paid on any
+railway in the country.
+
+Just conceive what a change there is in the communication and you do not
+wonder that the introduction of the railway system has made a stationary
+nation into a nation of travellers. After a time things did improve a
+little. The Birmingham Railway was made at considerable cost. When I
+wanted to go to Northampton, for many years I had to get up at six
+o’clock in the morning, hire a gig to go to Thrapston, where I caught the
+Cambridge coach, which ran in connection with the coach at Oxford. It
+cost about £4 to go home and come back again. When the Blisworth railway
+was opened, a coach was set up from Lynn to Blisworth six days in the
+week. This was a great convenience, and was very well supported. There
+were two coachmen. One was very grave and serious and the other light
+and frivolous. Everybody knew them very well indeed. It was very
+amusing to travel with them.
+
+At last, the Northampton Railway was projected, and it was plain to those
+men that their reign was coming to an end; but they used to endeavour to
+convert you to the belief that it was far better for things to remain as
+they were. The light and frivolous one used to sing a song in praise of
+the “Tally Ho” Coach. I remember the chorus was:
+
+ Let the steam pot hiss
+ Until it is hot.
+ Give me the speed of
+ The Tally-ho trot!
+
+The other coachman used to appeal to your fears, and say how dreadful it
+was when a railway accident occurred—“when an accident occurred to the
+coach—there you are! Just fancy an accident at 20 or 30 miles an hour;
+when that happens, where are you?”
+
+Well, we have survived it, and I am not sure that he was accurate in his
+per centage of those injured in coach and railway accidents. I have
+known some very fatal and distressing accidents bearing a very large
+proportion of injuries and deaths to those in the coach. I may mention
+that the Lynn coach of Messrs. Hill was very good to take you to the sea,
+it was very hard work to get to the beach in these days. I believe
+Skegness consisted of a single house. The nearest place was Yarmouth,
+and Messrs. Hill’s car took you to Lynn, where you could join the
+Birmingham and Yarmouth mail. I have never forgotten my first visit to
+Yarmouth when a boy. From the Norwich Road you caught the first view of
+the sea. As you enter Yarmouth now by rail you go in over the marshes,
+and the last two or three miles are by the side of muddy water, and you
+cannot see the sea until you get on the beach. The contrast between the
+way by the old coach and by the rail is very striking, indeed.
+
+In the year 1842 or 1843 it was rumoured that the London and
+North-Western Company were about to feel their way eastward, and the
+project for making the Peterborough and Northampton Railway was put into
+shape. Our wildest dreams never expected a railway. We had a coach, and
+that was quite a novelty. The Bishop and Dean and Chapter had a good
+deal of property on the line, and strongly opposed the railway. When the
+Bill came into the House of Lords it was, to our great delight, passed by
+a majority of One. There is an anecdote of Lord Fitzwilliam, who was an
+opponent of the Bill. That one day his Lordship was coming down by
+train, and in the same carriage was one of those gentlemen who knew
+everything. This gentleman was giving to a friend a history of the line,
+and when passing Alwalton Lynch said: “That is the road to Milton Park,
+and do you know that Lord Fitzwilliam opposed the Bill because they would
+not make him a station there?” A little further on the train stopped at
+Overton Station, and his Lordship got out. Just as he was shutting the
+door he said to the gentleman: “That little anecdote which you just told
+your friend about that crossing is not true, and when you say anything
+more about it you may say that Lord Fitzwilliam told you so.”
+
+The Northampton line was opened in 1845, and I remember being in the
+Cathedral when the first engine came down. It stopped at the end of the
+Fair Meadow, for the Dean and Chapter prevented the line being brought
+any nearer the town, as they would not have Bridge Fair interfered with.
+The engine was only about one-third the size of what they are now, but
+when it blew off steam people said they would never be able to hear
+anything in the Cathedral! Yet now no notice is taken of what was looked
+upon then as a deafening noise.
+
+We had next the London and York Railway, which then crossed the Thorpe
+Road near where the old mill stood. Lord Fitzwilliam compelled the
+Company to put the line by the side of the Syston and Peterborough
+Railway, where it is now. There were some amusing incidents connected
+with the Syston Railway. It was strongly opposed by Lord Harborough, and
+there were riots and fights between his men and the surveyors of the
+line. I will say no more about the railway system.
+
+The communications with Peterborough would be very incomplete if one
+forgot the river, because the river in those days was very necessary to
+the comfort of the town. I daresay now, if I were to quote Cowper’s
+lines:
+
+ Nen’s barge-laden waves,
+
+people might say they did not think the load is very heavy. But before
+the construction of the railway, and for some year’s afterwards, barges
+were found in very great abundance. We derived our whole coal supply
+from the river, and it was our great channel for carrying corn and
+timber. The importance of the Nene to the counties through which it
+passed was very great. Amongst other things was a Packet called
+“Simpson’s Packet,” and another belonging to Messrs. James and Thomas
+Hill, which conveyed light goods and passengers between Peterborough and
+Wisbech. I recollect the old gentleman who commanded the packet held a
+very high rank in the Navy indeed. He was a wooden-legged old gentleman,
+very much respected, and known by the name of Admiral Russell. He was
+commander of the Packet for many years. I do not know who succeeded him,
+but someone who did not attain so high a rank.
+
+There was a joke against Mr. Whalley, M.P., that he promised to make
+Peterborough a Seaport. If the projected scheme had been fairly carried
+out according to the original intention of the promoters, there would not
+have been a deal of money wasted. Some think even now it should not be
+given up altogether, if only for the purpose of preventing the railway
+companies from putting too high prices on the carriage of goods in cases
+where speed of transit is not essential. Goods used to be brought from
+Wisbech in lighters, and it was a serious thing in frosty weather,
+because all our coals were brought by the river, and when the frost
+lasted long there was danger of a coal famine.
+
+Now I may mention about the postage. When I first knew Peterborough the
+postage of a letter to London was 8d. A little further on it would be
+10d., and go on, until it came to about 1s. 4d. When you were going to
+London in those days you would receive visits from your friends, who
+would ask you to take letters for them and put them in the 2d. Post in
+London, and sometimes it happened that these letters were found in your
+coat pocket when you got home again! The postage of a ½oz. letter was
+8d., but if you cut the sheet of paper in two and used one-half as an
+envelope, the postage was 1s. 4d. If you divided the sheet of paper
+again and wrote a cheque on one quarter of it, and the receipt to be
+signed and returned on the other and put them into the other half sheet,
+the postage was again doubled. When I was at school my eldest brother,
+in a fit of benevolence, sent me 2s. 6d. in a letter, and I was delighted
+until I was told the postage was 2s. 8d. The matron, however, found a
+way out of it. She put the 2s. 8d. down to the governor’s account, and I
+had the half-crown.
+
+These rates of postage were very heavy, but Members of Parliament had the
+privilege of what was called “franking” letters. They were continually
+being applied to for these franks. They were only allowed, however, to
+send a certain number of letters, and you always ran the risk of having a
+bill sent in from the Post Office to the person having the privilege of
+“franking,” and they would send a footman to you, and you would then have
+to pay your share. This privilege of franking was abused, and one would
+hear that so and so had franked a ham, and one person was said to have
+franked a piano! Whether this was the truth or not I do not know, but it
+shows the advantage of getting rid of exceptional privileges.
+
+A few words about the government of our City. When I first came to the
+Town, the principal governor, the one who made the greatest impression on
+my youthful imagination, at all events, was the Beadle. He was a very
+important personage. His principal duty was to see the tramps out of the
+town. He could not arrest them, but had to “fidget” them out. He was
+always chosen with special reference to his age and infirmity. He had a
+long robe, a mace, and a cocked hat. He looked very imposing, almost
+like Old Scarlett in the Cathedral put into a long coat, a pair of knee
+breeches, and a cocked hat. He was paid in this way: At the Quarter
+Sessions he waited upon the Magistrates with a bill: “A man and a woman
+sent out Stamford Road,” “Two tramps and a child, Lincoln Road,” and so
+on. As we say educationally, he was paid by results. He was allowed so
+much according to his services. He was the principal officer of the
+place, and was appointed by the Feoffees.
+
+About the year 1857 we were protected by Parish Constables, and I think
+the principal duty of the constable was to report himself at the Quarter
+Sessions. We had two gaols—we could not do with one! One of these was
+that in the Minster Precincts, recently vacated by the School of Art.
+The other stood upon what is now the site of the Cumbergate Almshouses.
+The one in the Minster Yard was maintained by Lord Exeter as Lord
+Paramount. The other one, I think, was paid for by the Magistrates. In
+1840 we got an Act of Parliament for a new gaol, and it was brought about
+in this way: In about the year 1838 or 1839 a person walking through the
+Minster Yard saw a head pop up out of the pavement, a body followed,
+walked off, and was never heard of again. The man had simply undermined
+the foundations of his cell with a knife or bone and disappeared! He was
+the first that discovered that way of escape!
+
+About the same time in Peterborough was a family named Rogers. They were
+the black sheep of the place. The head of the family was known as Jimmy
+Rogers, and he took it into his head to dine one day upon sheep’s head
+and pluck which he stole from a butcher’s shop. He was ordered to be put
+into the Feoffees’ Gaol. He picked his way out, and this thief of the
+district and his family disappeared and never came back again. It was
+thought to be time we had a gaol, and the present building on the Thorpe
+Road was erected.
+
+You must not think that we had no amusements. We used to have a theatre
+on the site where the Corn Exchange now stands, and a very good theatre
+it was. A very good company used to come for about three months in the
+summer, and a very good entertainment was afforded. The Bishop and his
+Lady of those days used to make a point of attending during the season,
+and it was quite the thing to go to the theatre.
+
+The Fairs were very important in those days. The importance must not be
+judged by what is seen of them now. Bridge Fair was then most important.
+It shows the antiquity of the fairs that they had a special Court. All
+fairs and markets of any antiquity had this Court which was to do justice
+between man and man in any disputes arising at the fairs.
+
+We had two Balls regularly, one for the National School and one for the
+Infirmary. When political feeling ran high one Party would go to the
+National School Ball and the other to the Infirmary Ball. At other times
+each party would go to both.
+
+Peterborough was one of the last places in which Sedan chairs flourished.
+They went on until some time after the railways were established, which
+altered everything. The men were too much occupied to be able to go with
+the Sedan chairs when they were wanted, and so they gradually died out.
+
+ [Picture: A Peterborough Sedan Chair. “Peterborough was one of the last
+ places in which Sedan chairs flourished.”—Andrew Percival]
+
+Whittlesey Mere existed in those days. It was thus called because it had
+nothing whatever to do with Whittlesey. It was several miles away.
+Whittlesey Mere was one of the wonders of Huntingdonshire, Whittlesey
+being in Cambridgeshire. Whittlesey Mere was a charming place for
+skating in frosty weather and for fishing in the summer time, when there
+was water enough, and for boating under the same circumstances.
+Sometimes, when there had been a dry time it became so shallow that you
+stirred up mud from the bottom when you attempted to sail. It was very
+good for fishing. One day we were out with a party, and we stopped at
+old Bellamy Bradford’s landing place. It shelved off so gradually that
+the distinction between grass and water was so graduated that a large
+pike, probably in pursuit of a fish, had gone so far as to be prevented
+from getting back to his native element. The place was surrounded by
+reed shoals, where reeds for thatching grew, and these were the resort of
+innumerable starlings.
+
+ [Picture: Photo. T. N. Green. Ball & Co., Peterborough. A bit of Old
+ Paston. Peterborough people used to be married and buried in the
+enclosed parish of Paston—a kind of oasis in the desert.—Andrew Percival]
+
+
+
+
+PART THE SECOND.
+
+
+AN OASIS IN THE DESERT.—OLD SYSTEM OF CASTOR FARMING.—A LIGHTED
+BEACON.—THE FEN AROUND US.—DRAINING THE GREAT LEVEL.—THE MILL SYSTEM OF
+DRAINING.—SNATCHED FROM THE SEA.—HOW LAND IMPROVED IN VALUE.—“INTELLIGENT
+FENMEN.”—OLD TOWN BRIDGE.—OLD-TIME JAUNT THROUGH THE CITY.—POOR HOUSE AND
+NEW GAOL.—THORPE ROAD HOSTELRY.—NEWTOWN.—THE GREAT BREWERIES AND THE
+PONDS.—CABBAGE ROW.—BURIAL AT CROSS ROADS.—FROG HALL.—GAS WORKS
+STARTED.—OLD MARKET.—LADIES AND THE CATTLE.—WEDNESDAY MARKET.—A CURIOSITY
+MARKET.—GOD’S ACRE.
+
+THE great point which strikes us all, and which strikes everyone
+considering the history of the last seventy years in the City of
+Peterborough is the very great increase in the population, and when one
+began to think how it came about we used to say “it is owing to the
+railways.” But that is like telling you that the world, as the Indians
+say, is supported on the back of a tortoise! You want to know why the
+railways were wanted, what the tortoise stands upon, because if you look
+into statistics seventy years ago, before the railways, the population of
+Peterborough was considerably increasing, and the populations of
+agricultural districts altogether were very much increasing, and when you
+go a little further, if you look at all into the history of the land
+around Peterborough, or the country altogether, you will find within a
+century there had been a great change. Now, take for instance the
+immediate neighbourhood of Peterborough. My recollection of it begins,
+as I have said, at the latter end of 1833, at the commencement of the
+last century. I think the only parish, if I except Fletton, the only
+enclosed parish within some few miles of this place was the parish of
+Paston.
+
+There you will rind the church, surrounded by old trees, and the parish
+differed very much from others. If you look into the Churchyard there
+you will find a great many names of the inhabitants of Peterborough and
+other parishes outside Paston. If you look into the Paston register you
+will find marriages solemnised between inhabitants not belonging to
+Paston, the undoubted fact being that the enclosed parish of Paston led
+people to desire they should be married and buried there. Paston was a
+kind of oasis in the desert.
+
+Most of the parishes around here were in the position and character of
+Castor, which until recently was the only open field parish within many
+miles of this place. I was riding through Castor field some years ago,
+before it was enclosed, with a few farmers, when one turned round and
+said: “How should you like to farm this parish?” “Not at all,” was the
+reply. A man in the parish who had a farm of a hundred acres would have
+to go to his farm in four different parts of the parish—some against
+Ailsworth, Milton Park, Alwalton, and so on, perhaps scattered in pieces
+of one acre, two roods, and so forth. So that with a large farm a man
+would have to go to a farm of a hundred acres to as many different places
+two or three miles apart. The pieces were so narrow that they were like
+ribbons; you could plough lengthways but not crossways. As soon as you
+turned, you got on to your neighbour’s land, which was frequently a
+subject of dispute. Conceive the state of the cultivation of the country
+generally when that was the system not only in one parish, but in the
+general bulk, at all events, in this part of the kingdom.
+
+Peterborough was open. All the parishes, to my knowledge, from
+Peterborough to Deeping, and east to west, have been enclosed since 1812.
+There was a beacon lighted at night to light the passengers over the
+weary waste, since brought into cultivation. Just conceive, if you can,
+the state in which this part of the country was then, and in what it is
+now, and consider the great increase of corn that can be grown, and not
+only corn that can be grown, but the stock that can be fed by the
+cultivation of roots and the introduction of bone manure, and then you
+get some idea of the increased production of the country, that rendered
+improved roads, terminating in railroads, necessary. For the same
+reason, the marvellous increase in the manufacturing districts has been
+kept pace with in the agricultural production of the country, another
+feature in our neighbourhood.
+
+If you begin at Cambridge and draw a line along the high land by St.
+Ives, east of Peterborough, by Spalding and Boston, down to the Humber,
+you will find the tract of land known as the Fen Country. That country
+has undergone within the last seventy or eighty years, or a great part of
+it, a change even more striking than that which has passed over the
+uplands. At first you would be inclined to doubt whether there were any
+such places as the Fens at all. If you say to anybody “Don’t you live in
+the Fens”? the reply will be “Oh, no.” At Peterborough we are not in the
+Fens. Of course not! There is Flag Fen, and there is Borough Fen, but
+we are on high ground, and not in the Fen, and you will find, even if you
+go east of Wisbech, where the land is called marsh land, which sounds
+rather funny, that the farmers and graziers there will say they don’t
+live in the Fens. And walking towards the sea you will always be told
+you have come to the wrong place, you must go a little further, and then
+you will find the Fen country! But still, take the Fens as we know them,
+extending from Peterborough to Cambridge, and down by Boston nearly to
+the Humber.
+
+I will confine my observations to that which most comes within my own
+knowledge, that district of the Fens known as the Bedford Level, called
+the South, the Middle, and the North Level. From the beginning of
+Crowland on the North, down to, say, the Middle by March and Lynn, and
+the South down to Cambridge. In the year 1637 a Charter was passed by
+Charles I. for the improvement of that country, and we form some notion
+of what it must have been—the weary waste of waters it must have
+been—from the preamble of the Charter of Incorporation. It is described
+as being generally covered with water, of little advantage to mankind,
+except yielding some few river fish and water fowl, that is when you may
+catch them, and on lucky days you may shoot wild ducks. Adventurers had
+endeavoured to make lines of meadows, which had made such progress that
+it was hoped this place, which had lately presented nothing to the eye
+but waters and a few reeds thinly scattered here and there, might, under
+Divine mercy, become some of it pleasant pasture for cattle, with many
+houses belonging to the inhabitants. That seemed to have been the
+extreme notion of what could be made of that country in the way of
+production. Going on to the year 1830, when the last history of the
+Bedford Level was written by Mr. Samuel Wells, well known as the Register
+of the Corporation, he speaks of it seventy-five years ago as a matter of
+congratulation that at that time, when they had improved it sufficiently
+to grow oats and cole seed, that the cultivation of wheat had begun to
+extend itself into the Fen country. He spoke of it almost as a novelty,
+and says that the Corporation, soon after its formation, had interfered
+to prevent the inhabitants, occupiers, and owners of property from
+improving and draining by mills. He says that the system of drainage by
+mills was abandoned in consequence of the result of the suit to prevent
+it being favourable to the Corporation.
+
+However, in a short time, after many struggles, the Level becoming so
+inundated by the choking of interior drains, the defective state of the
+rivers, and neglected improvement of outfalls, the Corporation found it
+impossible to resist the importunity of the country to resort to
+artificial drainage, and therefore waived their objection, and allowed a
+return of the mill system. The mill system up to 1830 consisted simply
+of working a machine by wind to lift the water out of some embanked
+portion of the Fens into a drain at a higher level, to conduct it to one
+of the main drains of the Corporation to the outfall in the sea. Seventy
+years ago, Mr. Wells tells us, in the whole district of the Bedford
+Level—350,000 acres—there were only five steam engines, one being in the
+parish of Newboro’, put up on the enclosuse. He says there was a general
+opinion that steam drainage would be further prosecuted, but this
+depended upon the finances of the district, and he goes on to say many
+intelligent Fenmen indulged the hope of acquiring a natural drainage,
+when the result of the work now undertaken, in a greater or a less degree
+on all three levels, can be fully understood and ascertained. The
+author, however, says he cannot rank himself amongst the number of those
+sanguine persons. He thought it great progress to get five steam
+engines, and hoping they would get more, he, as an intelligent Fenman,
+thought it was as much as he could anticipate.
+
+I think in the year 1827 or 1828 one of those works, the Nene outfall,
+had been undertaken, the object of which was to make the channel to the
+sea through the high and shifting sands, which were at the entrance of
+the Wash, through which the waters of the Nene found their way to the
+sea. It was carried out. I think Mr. Tycho Wing was the great
+inaugurator and Sir Jno. Rennie the engineer. It was so thoroughly
+successful that it at once allowed the interior drainage of the country
+to be vastly improved, and not only so, but up to the present time, by
+the operation of the Nene Outfall Act, no less than 5,800 acres of land
+have been actually reclaimed from the sea, the value of which is at least
+from £40 to £50 per acre. Not only was the Fen district materially
+improved, but a tract of country equal to a large parish was obtained,
+the value of which alone would, in a measure, repay all the expense of
+the undertaking. Then they went on, following the success of that, to
+get the North Level Act in 1830. The effect of that was that water mills
+and steam mills disappeared, and they now have natural drainage by the
+water finding its way by gravitation to the sea.
+
+In 1840 a similar work was begun in the Middle Level, and they now have
+natural drainage in nearly the whole of that Level. The only exception
+is about Whittlesey Mere, where they have a steam pump and a steam
+water-wheel to carry away the floods. What was the effect of that? In
+the first place a tax was put on. In the Middle Level and North Level
+the yearly tax may be taken at about 8s. 6d. or 9s. per acre altogether.
+It sounds a very large sum where the land itself, in many instances, was
+worth next to nothing before, but the effect has been that in that
+district, I am not exaggerating when I say, leaving the tax out of the
+question, that is, after putting the tax on the land and comparing it to
+what it was before, the land is worth double, and, in many instances,
+treble, and where land without the tax was worth £10 an acre, it is now
+worth £20 or £30. I have had through my hands deeds of an estate in the
+Fen. It contained 200 acres. In 1824 it was sold for £1,155; in 1829
+for £1,880. In 1882, notwithstanding the time of depression, it was sold
+for £5,000, without any special bargain. Just think of the increase in
+the value of the country in consequence of what has been done, and I
+think you will see at once why the district has required railway
+accommodation.
+
+[Picture: City wooden bridge over the Nene. Replaced 1872. Old Photo by
+ William Ball, Peterborough]
+
+Mr. Wells speaks of the “Intelligent Fenmen.” I believe in their
+intelligence! In their Parliamentary battles they are as warlike as
+people can be in protecting the valuable interests of which they are the
+custodians, and counsel in Parliamentary committees have often said: “How
+well those men understand their business; how ready they are, and what
+talent they show in stating and maintaining their cause.” That is rather
+a digression, but it accounts very much, I think, for the great changes
+in this part of the country to which we belong.
+
+Now let me endeavour to show the changes in Peterborough proper. I will
+supply an omission, with an apology to my old friend, the old Town
+Bridge. I am ashamed to find that in my previous notes I had omitted to
+say anything about it. That was rather extraordinary, because I had my
+mind on it, and when I first came from Northampton my first acquaintance
+with Peterborough must have been “over that bridge.” There is an old
+proverb which says “Find no fault with the bridge which carries you
+over.” With every disposition to be charitable, that is the only good
+thing I can say of the old Bridge. It carried me over, and there was no
+instance that it ever fell in, but there was always a fear that it would
+fall, and everybody thought it ought to fall, but it did not, and I
+mention this because I think our new Bridge is a striking instance of the
+public spirit of the inhabitants of Peterborough and the neighbourhood in
+subscribing the cost of one-half of it, and also of the fairness and
+liberality which the county authorities displayed in meeting the
+inhabitants in assisting to get a new bridge—a credit to the
+district—rather than patch up that shabby, ramshackle concern, which,
+patched from time to time, might have outlived another hundred years, and
+a suspicion that it would fall, but never actually falling.
+
+ [Picture: From an Old Print. Sexton Barns. “A Fine Old Building; an
+ object which vanished when the Railways were made, because now it is the
+ Site of the G.N. Station.”—Andrew Percival]
+
+We will walk up Bridge Street and take a turn round the outskirts of the
+town as I knew it years ago. Going past the toll-bar in Cowgate we come
+to the building known as Sexton Barns; probably some of you recollect it,
+a fine old building; it was an object that vanished when the railways
+were made, because now it is the site of the G.N. Station. There was a
+handsome tree near the Crescent, where Peterborough began to stray into
+the country; the Crescent had been erected four or five years before.
+Opposite was the house where Mrs. Cattel lived, and then the house where
+Dr. Skrimshire lived (now Dr. Keeton’s). Walking a little further, we
+came to the Town Mill; very much like the Town Bridge, it had seen better
+days and, like the Bridge, it had had a history. It had been the
+property of the Dean and Chapter, and, without the smallest doubt, it
+came down to them from the Abbot and Convent, who were the Lords of this
+district. These town mills were mills which the largest landowners kept
+for the accommodation of their tenants, who were thereby provided with
+the means of grinding their corn at a small cost, but were compelled to
+use them and pay grist to the millers, and the old law books contain much
+on the subject. Its need passed away, the mill got into private hands;
+it seems to have become worse and worse, and at last it was burnt down,
+and we know it no more, the very site having been utilised in an exchange
+of property for the erection of the present King’s School in Park Road.
+
+On the opposite side is the Union Workhouse, built about 1834 or 1835.
+It has been very much beautified, but it is not a handsome building now.
+It has had a new front or facing. I may mention in passing that I
+recollect at one time there was a persistent cry made by some portion of
+the Press against the new Poor Law, against the hardship of separating
+man and wife, and so on, but never was so persistent an attempt made in
+that part of a portion of the Press with such signal failure at the time,
+although since come to pass where desirable. The new Poor Law took the
+place of one that was probably ruining the country, and is, in these
+later days, itself under review.
+
+We then walk along the road back towards Peterborough, and we find the
+Gaol and Sessions House. This Gaol was built in 1840. There was a fight
+between the Dean and Chapter, and their Lessee, and the Magistrates about
+the enormous price asked for it, and a jury was appointed, but a price of
+two or three times more than was paid at that time for the land has been
+paid since for land. If anyone had it to sell now at the same price he
+would be very happy.
+
+Between the Gaol and the Workhouse there is a nice quiet-looking
+residence (Mr. Noble’s). It was, till recently, devoted to the supply of
+milk, but it was built as a public house, put up by a brewery in order to
+supply accommodation for people who resorted to the Sessions House at the
+weekly meetings of the Magistrates, and at the Quarter Sessions. There
+was a temperance wit of the day who said, “No, it is put there to show
+the close and intimate connection between the gin shop, the gaol, and the
+workhouse.” We will go back to the town, the whole of that known as
+Newtown, long before the railways, between 1815 and 1833, had been
+erected, so that it was, strictly and literally, “Newtown.”
+
+We then pass Squire’s Brewery at the entrance to Lincoln Road, where the
+Liberal Club and Masonic Hall now stand, and we go to Boroughbury; all
+beyond the malting formed part of Squire’s Brewery, going past what is
+known as the “Square Pond.” The houses there, including a large part of
+the Catholic Church and other buildings, are actually built upon that
+which was, in 1833 (and many years afterwards), covered with water. I
+was intimate with Mr. Buckle, who succeeded Mr. Squire in that brewery,
+and I was permitted to fish in the pond as often as I pleased. I have
+stood upon that spot which is now a public road and have caught pike and
+eels, and used to have very capital sport there. In the winter time it
+was a favourite resort, not thrown open to the public altogether, but
+still, with great liberality, it was allowed to be used for skating. I
+was very unlucky one day. It was just after a gentleman had bought the
+house, afterwards Mrs. Willoughby’s (now shops erected by Mr. W. D.
+Nichols), and the grounds about it, was walking in his grounds, when he
+saw me pull out a large pike, and he was so enchanted with it, he thought
+it would be a great benefit to his property, and to my disgust, but the
+pleasure of Mr. Buckle, he bought the pond and merged it into his private
+grounds. I never caught any pike there again!
+
+Passing the outskirts of the town, we pass the great Tithe Barn,
+Boroughbury, an interesting and attractive specimen of antiquity and a
+good specimen of that kind of barn. You go up that junction of Lincoln
+Road to Dogsthorpe, and there past the last house until you come to two
+or three cottages, then belonging to a retired tailor, named Mitchell,
+and people had been profane enough to christen those cottages “Cabbage
+Row.” What connection there is between a tailor and cabbage, I don’t
+know.
+
+Crossing the fields now laid out by the great roads of the Land Company,
+and which at that time were the most secluded fields around Peterborough,
+and going down Crawthorne Lane you came to a junction—a little lane at
+the back of Boroughbury, now a wide street behind St. Mark’s Villas,
+which runs up to Park Road, and there four roads met, where there was a
+little tombstone which was known as the “Girls’ Grave.” A girl was
+buried there, with a stake through her body, without Christian burial.
+The place was very well known, and for long remained in the midst of a
+potato garden belonging to one of the cottages there.
+
+You go as the crow flies to a place called Frog Hall, in front of St.
+Mary’s Vicarage, one of the cottages remained till 1904, and the place
+had a very unsavoury reputation. It was inhabited by squatters, gipsies,
+and travellers, and was one of the least desirable parts in that
+neighbourhood. Then came a row of cottages known as Burton’s Row, where
+Peterborough attempted to travel past its boundaries and get into the
+country.
+
+Going back, we come to the Cemetery, but at that time all were grass
+fields let out as accommodation ground, and quite secluded. A little
+further on were the Gas Works. Now they ARE Gas Works. When I came they
+were, as compared with the present, in about the same proportion as a
+small kettle to a large steam engine boiler. A gentleman named Malam—a
+Hull man—used to supply all the little towns in the country, and used to
+contract with the inhabitants to supply gas for them. There was no Act
+of Parliament, or anything of that sort, but permission from the Local
+Authorities to break up the streets and roads was all that was required,
+and he chanced it. I think Mr. Sawyer used to give as much time as he
+could spare from his own business, until he became, as the town
+increased, by purchase, the owner of the works, and he then gave his
+whole time and attention to them, and a very nice property it developed
+into by the time the present company took it off Mr. Sawyer’s hands.
+
+That is the history of gas in Peterborough. This brings us back to the
+Long Causeway and the Market Place. Not the market now, as I recollect
+it! Up to the year 1848 the farmers attending the market used to cool
+their heels in the open air in front of the Town Hall, hot or cold, wet
+or dry, rain or snow, blowing or still, there they stood, till the
+Theatre, now the Corn Exchange (since largely added to), became vacant,
+and it occurred to some agricultural gentleman that they could be much
+more comfortable in every way if they could form a company, and they did
+so, and I think no one will doubt that is an improvement. On the Long
+Causeway, the Cattle Market was the principal institution of the place,
+and I will tell you why. On Saturdays that place was wholly given up to
+them. There they were; nobody paid anything; anybody who had cows or
+horses to sell brought them there. They became the proprietors of the
+street for that day.
+
+Our widest and best street was spoilt; because if there is one thing more
+certain than another it is that the female mind most intensely abhors
+anything approaching contact with horned animals. Somehow or other, it
+seems to disturb that equanimity which appears to be utterly
+indispensable to a lady when she is going what she calls “shopping,” and
+it would take away all her ideas to think she was going to meet a
+restless-looking cow or a doubtful looking ox. It takes away all notion
+of colour, shape, and measure, or whether the thing will wash or not.
+The consequence was, the Long Causeway was practically abandoned on
+market days, and it was not much more used on other days for shopping
+purposes, because in anything like changeable or damp weather the
+atmosphere of the street was what I have heard ladies describe (not
+meaning to be complimentary) as “smelly.” Therefore, naturally, there
+was great rejoicing among the inhabitants generally when that street was
+restored to a cleanly wholesome state by the construction of the Cattle
+Market.
+
+The Wednesday Cattle Market had a very peculiar growth. It was set up
+without the smallest authority about 1845 or 1846 by an old gentleman
+named Dean, who was a retired farmer, and an enterprising auctioneer
+named Dowse, who kept the “Greyhound.” They suggested that fat stock
+should be brought, and it came more and more, until it grew into that
+excellent stock market, which became one of the best in the Kingdom.
+There was no foundation for it but that of custom. When the new market
+was proposed, the farmers invited the then authorities, the Improvement
+Commissioners, to construct it for them, but they made their bow and
+said, “If you want a market, make it for yourselves.” It was made by a
+limited company, and it has since fallen into the hands of the
+authorities, and Broadway constructed through it.
+
+We have another market which has grown up, and that is the present
+Wednesday Market on the Market Place, which I think is one of the
+greatest curiosities that ever comes under one’s notice. It does no harm
+to anyone. I went there recently, and I saw an extraordinary medley of
+things exposed for sale. I wondered at first if they were to be given
+away! I could understand anybody wishing to sell them, but wondered who
+could wish to buy them. It is one of the things no one can understand.
+But it affords the means of getting rid of most undesirable things, call
+them furniture, or anything else! It puts me in mind of a shop in the
+Market Place at Great Yarmouth, where they say you may buy anything. A
+visitor, a clergyman, was told he could get anything he wanted. He said,
+“I want a pulpit.” “Well,” his friend said, “go in and try.” He went in
+and said, “Do you happen to have a pulpit?” and they said, “Well, we do
+happen to have a pulpit.” And I think I have seen everything in our
+Wednesday’s Market except that. I have not seen anything so useful as a
+pulpit!
+
+I have spoken of our accommodation for the living. What do we do for the
+dead? We have the Cemetery, which has been considerably enlarged since
+it was first formed in 1852 or 1853, and the rapid increase of the
+Cemetery suggests the difficulty of the disposal of the dead in a
+creditable and satisfactory manner with our increasing population. The
+old burial ground was opened in the year 1802, and it is one of the
+peculiarities of this peculiar place, and of the old jurisdictions here,
+that the old Parish Church appears to have had in ancient times no burial
+ground belonging to it, a thing that very seldom happens, for the burial
+ground of the Parish of St. John the Baptist was outside the Minster,
+which is an extra parochial district. This remained up to 1802, when the
+burial ground in Cowgate was formed. If you go into it sometime (I am
+very fond of looking at the tombstones), you will find the oddest
+peculiarities of language and literature as inscriptions on the
+tombstones, but I cannot say I have ever found much to admire. You will
+find a collection of legends which are common all over the country,
+commencing with
+
+ Affliction sore, long time he bore,
+ Physicians WAS in vain.
+
+Next to it:
+
+ Pale consumption gave the silent BELOW, etc.
+
+In our graveyard in Cowgate there is an epitaph upon old Mrs. Thomas, by
+which you are informed, that
+
+ Making carpets and beds she did pursue
+ With care and industry is very true,
+ The established religion she did profess
+ In hopes, through Christ, of Heaven to possess.
+
+Such rubbish as that, under the veto of the present Cemetery
+Commissioners, will, I hope, soon disappear. But there is one in the
+Cathedral graveyard (the existence of which is not generally known), on
+the tombstone memorial of an old family of this place, and I trust it
+will not be allowed to disappear. It is very superior to what they
+generally are. It is on the right just as you go through the Arch by the
+Deanery, and is to the memory of one of the Richardson family:
+
+ Stranger pass by nor idly waste your time
+ In bad biography or bitter rhyme;
+ For what I am, this cumbrous clay ensures,
+ And what I was, is no affair of yours.
+
+The old gentleman, as you see, has carried his cynical humour to the
+grave with him. It was quoted in an article in “Blackwood’s Magazine” on
+“Monumental Inscriptions” a few years since.
+
+ [Picture: Peterborough Market Place A.D. 1795. N. Fielding of Stamford.
+ Specially drawn from a painting in Peterborough Museum]
+
+
+
+
+PART THE THIRD.
+
+
+NEWSPAPERS.—DISTEMPER.—GUILDHALL.—HANGINGS.—DARING BURGLARIES.—A LOCK-UP
+STORY.—AN ALIBI.—THE MUD CASE.—WHEN THE RAILWAYS FIRST
+CAME.—RETROSPECTIVE.
+
+IN my former Notes I alluded to the Post Office. Well, the first Post
+Office I recollect was a little room about 10ft. square—I think it has
+been altered since—in one of those houses at the back of the “White Lion”
+gates. An old gentleman lived there who was Postmaster, and I think he
+was assisted, being rather infirm, by his daughter, and I have been told
+it was the amusement of a little grandchild or a little boy accustomed to
+visit him, that by way of a treat he was allowed to catch letters in his
+pinafore, and as a grand treat he was allowed to stamp them. At that
+time the Post Office establishment consisted of the Postmaster, the lady
+who assisted him, and the letter carrier, who, as some of you recollect,
+was Mrs. Waterfield, a tidy woman, who had a little basket in which she
+carried letters. By degrees the establishment got on. You will bear in
+mind that at that time we were not troubled with Post Office Orders.
+There was no way of conveying 5s. or 6s. in stamps, or by order, from one
+part of the country to another. The present Post Office consists of
+palatial buildings, since their enlargement in 1904, and great
+departmental accommodation, the smallest room of which is larger than
+that old Post Office altogether. It would not do now to catch letters in
+a pinafore, as their number is many millions a month. There are
+telegraph messages, Post Office Orders, and Savings Bank business. The
+Postmaster and old woman have grown into a Postmaster at £500 a year,
+Chief Clerk, a very important personage, the Assistant Superintendent
+(Postal Department), the Assistant Superintendent (Telegraph Department),
+7 controllers, and a staff numbering altogether nearly 350, with 66
+sub-Post Offices—a pretty good number. A great deal of the business is
+forwarding mails passing through Peterborough, as a convenient centre for
+such purposes.
+
+Then, as to newspapers, we used to have once a week the “Stamford
+Mercury,” a very good paper, full of advertisements and local news, but
+the “Stamford Mercury” was always conducted on this principle: “Opinion
+is quite free in this country, and we are going to dictate to nobody,” so
+you never have editorial articles in the “Stamford Mercury.” They used
+sometimes to select leaders and bits of intelligence from other papers,
+generally of one way of thinking. Then we used to have the London
+papers. They cost 7d. each. London papers used to come down the day
+after publication, after they had gone the round of the club houses, the
+hotels, and the London eating houses. Those that had been in the eating
+houses used sometimes to come in rather a greasy form. Now we can have
+the “Times” on our breakfast table, or earlier if wished. After a time
+some gentlemen thought we were very benighted in Peterborough, and two of
+them, very much in advance of their age, started what we should now call
+a Society paper of a very pronounced type called the “Peterborough
+Argus.” The first one heard of it was, after one or two publications,
+that a solicitor had inflicted upon the responsible Editor a sound
+thrashing for a libel. The case went to the Northampton Assizes, and
+although the verdict was not quite “served him right,” the publisher got
+damages of very small amount. It was one of the most scurrilous papers
+in its way, and at length it became intolerable.
+
+We now have in Peterborough four newspapers, besides a most ample supply
+of daily newspapers. It has been very interesting to witness the growth
+of Peterborough newspapers, particularly that of the ADVERTISER (the
+first in the field—in 1854) from its small two pages to the very
+satisfactory form in which it now appears, with its mid-weekly auxiliary,
+the CITIZEN. There was also a difficulty as to supply of books. There
+was a book club, the Church Porch Club, existing fifty years ago, and one
+or two others, but somehow or other literature did not thrive very much
+in Peterborough. One gentleman retired from the book club, and when
+asked why he gave up he said “The fact is I cannot eat suppers any
+longer.” It does not strike me as a good reason to give up reading,
+because one would have thought he could have read better without his
+supper. However, they were not then so badly off for newspapers as they
+were 150 years ago.
+
+I mentioned just now the “Stamford Mercury.” I have before me a copy of
+the “Stamford Mercury” a friend has kindly lent me, that I might extract
+a little valuable comparison. What should we think if our intellectual
+food came from sources such as that we got, for instance, in the year
+1730, as seen in the “Stamford Mercury.” It then had a most aspiring
+title, as you will see:—“The STAMFORD MERCURY, being Historical and
+Political Observations on the Transactions of Europe, Together with
+Remarks on Trade.” Here is this little sheet—a good-sized sheet of
+letter paper, one-eighth taken up by the title and an illustrated figure
+of “Mercury.” Another eighth is literally taken up by “Bills of
+Mortality of London for the week or month,” and from it I wonder what
+some of the diseases of that day were. One person died of
+“Headmouldshot,” one of “Horse Shoehead,” and amongst other things there
+is very large mortality attributed to “teeth.” Another eighth of that
+paper is taken up with price lists, giving the rate of exchange between
+London and Madrid, also between London and Cadiz, etc. Then prices of
+goods at “Bear Key.” Another eighth is given up to observations upon the
+affairs of Europe: “Our Government has received advice from Florence that
+Princess Dowager Palatine has renounced all her pretentions to the
+succession in favour of Don Carlos,” and such pieces as that, and then
+the other half is taken up with advertisements. It is a curious thing
+that in one advertisement we are told “To Let, the Three Tuns, an old
+accustomed inn on the Market Place at Peterborough, Northamptonshire,”
+that being the site where the present Stamford and Spalding Bank now
+stands. That was in 1730.
+
+Twenty years later, in 1755, there is an Ipswich paper, and to show how
+history repeats itself, for the consolation of our farming friends, we
+are told that amongst other Acts just passed was one to continue several
+laws relating to the distemper then raging among the horned cattle in the
+Kingdom. There is nothing new under the sun. We have had it before, and
+no doubt they said in that time legislation very much interfered with the
+markets. Another curious thing in the paper is this: “The ship the Royal
+George was put out of the Dock to go to Spithead.” Was this the Royal
+George that “went down with twice 400 men”? Public news was important
+just then. There are details as to watching the French Fleet. Those
+were very anxious times, but the peculiarity of those papers is that they
+gave you so little of what may be called local news. Our own local
+papers give you ample City News and a Complete Chronicle of the affairs
+of villages; but you may look through those papers and find nothing
+approaching local news excepting this:—
+
+ “By a letter from Thirsk in Yorkshire we learn that very lately a
+ terrible shock of earthquake was felt, inasmuch that several large
+ rocks were removed to considerable distances; several large grown
+ elms were swallowed up by the earth so that no part of them remained
+ to be seen but the uppermost branches. A man driving a cart near the
+ place, the horses were so much frightened by the shock that they
+ broke loose from the carriage and ran away. The horses seem to have
+ behaved very sensibly.”
+
+Then there is an advertisement which strikes one as rather peculiar,
+because I think if some of the ladies now-a-days happened of this
+misfortune you would hardly put it in the paper:—
+
+ “Lost out of Tom Shave’s London caravan between London and Ipswich
+ (but supposed to be dropped between here and Colchester) a small
+ black trunk, containing a pink silk gown, with a pink sarsenet
+ lining, a blue silk quilted petticoat, a pink silver lined child’s
+ hat, a white chip hat with pink ribbons, a pink silk skirt, two pair
+ of white cotton stockings, two shifts, two lawn handkerchiefs and
+ owner’s other things, with a hoop petticoat tied on the outside.”
+
+Now, we have lived in the days of the crinoline, but I never saw one tied
+on the outside!
+
+To return to the City of Peterborough, we come to the Town Hall. When I
+first knew it, it was used as a Sessions House, but it did not belong to
+the magistrates, the feoffees being the owners. It was also used as a
+County Court until the present new building was erected. Speaking of the
+County Courts, for many years there was no summary jurisdiction for
+settling small debts and quarrels, and one really wonders how the world
+got on, but one feels certain there must have been a vast deal of
+injustice for the want of that which really, comparatively speaking, now
+brings justice home to everybody’s own door. Just think in 1810 how
+difficult it was to get.
+
+The Magistrates of the Liberty of Peterborough had a general commission
+of gaol delivery. There are people living in Peterborough who recollect
+a man being hanged on Butcher’s Piece, against the North Bank, under
+sentence by the local magistrates, and I should imagine there was as much
+heard of it as there is news given in this scrap of print. In 1820 an
+Act of Parliament was passed enabling Magistrates at local jurisdictions
+to commit persons charged with capital offences for trial at the Assizes.
+In the Peterborough Court no counsel used to appear, and just imagine
+what a sensation would be excited if we were now told by our Court of
+Quarter Sessions that by authority of their Charter they were going to
+hang a man. I recollect when I was a boy at school, just before I came
+to Peterborough, I have been into the Old Bailey, and I have seen put
+into the dock at the close of the Sessions 15 or 16 men and women, all of
+whom were sentenced to be executed. Sheep stealing, horse stealing, cow
+stealing, forgery, robbing a dwelling house to a certain amount were all
+at that time capital offences, and you would see in the London newspapers
+that the Recorder of the City had been down to Windsor to make his report
+to the King, and that there were so many cases of death sentences, all of
+which his Majesty was graciously pleased to respite, except some who were
+to be executed as a deterrent example.
+
+There is a novel of Theodore Hook’s which gives a most striking account,
+partly humorous, and partly tragic, of the proceedings and sentences at
+the Old Bailey in those days. One recollects in the course of his
+professional experience many cases of interest. Many striking cases of
+daring burglaries have been dealt with in Peterborough. At Glinton a
+house was broken into by five or six people, most convincing evidence was
+given of their violence and intimidation, and the coolness of the
+witnesses on the trial of the prisoners. The witnesses, as they very
+frequently are, were ordered out of Court, and as they were called they
+pointed out and identified particular prisoners. After this had been
+done two or three times, the gentlemen in the dock changed their
+positions, thinking that probably the witnesses had been tutoring one
+another, and that they would then defeat them; but it did not answer, and
+it being pointed out to the jury, it sealed their conviction, convincing
+them that the witnesses were accurate, and not tutored. The same thing
+was mentioned in the papers a few days ago as having occurred when the
+prisoners were in the dock in Dublin for the Phœnix Park murders.
+Another case occurred where a gang who had been the terror of the
+district, all strangers, broke into a house, the Thirty Acre Farm, at
+Fengate, and striking coolness and courage was shown by a girl who was
+pulled out of her bed and threatened with death to compel her to open her
+box and produce her money. She afterwards identified her assailants,
+some by their voices even. Then there was the robbery at Orton Stanch.
+The money taken by the woman there for tolls was brought to Peterborough
+weekly, and one night the place was broken into and the cash box stolen.
+
+There was a man called Jack Hall who had settled in this part of the
+country, and was connected with others of Yaxley, who committed several
+robberies in the district. Hall turned informer; he was arrested for
+something else, and gave information, and Stretton and a man named
+Humberston were taken separately. They were first allowed to see, but
+not speak to, each other, and were put into separate cells. Mr. Preston,
+who used to keep the lock-up at Fletton, locked the door of the passage
+dividing the cells, but was careful to leave a policeman in the passage,
+where he could hear any conversation between the prisoners. Towards
+morning he heard one signal, the other “Hist! Jack, what are you in for?”
+“The Stanch,” was the reply. The other said, “Jack Hall’s split upon
+us.” “Never mind” was the answer, “we must deny it altogether.” This
+conversation was proved at the trial at the assizes, and was relied upon
+to confirm the evidence. The prisoners’ counsel complained of the way
+these men had been trapped, but Lord Justice Campbell, who tried them,
+pointed out that they were not asked to say what they did, and they were
+convicted and sentenced to transportation for life.
+
+One other case, the robbery at the Vicarage. The thief was met coming
+away. He was described as a nice, gentlemanly looking man. A young
+policeman met him in the street, and that thief had the impudence to walk
+and talk to him. They walked up to the G.N. Station together, and the
+policeman thinking no harm, the burglar got clear away, but he was
+apprehended afterwards with others. There was a defence of an alibi set
+up for one, and men were brought from Northampton to declare that he was
+engaged at a tea garden there at the time. The jury did not believe
+them. The same defence is one of the most common. If proved, it is, of
+course, most conclusive, but it is very easy to set up this defence and
+get it sworn to. It was once used by a man charged with stealing a
+horse, who was found riding away upon its back. It occurs in Pickwick,
+when Mr. Weller says: “Samivel, why wasn’t there an alibi?”
+
+There have not been many civil cases of any great interest, but a few
+breaches of promise, and one rather peculiar case, known as the Mud case,
+tried on the Midland Circuit. It was a question of right of navigation
+through what is now Mr. Roberts’ granary against the river, and it was
+stated that barge after barge had been brought up there. It was shown
+that it was physically impossible for a boat to go up there, as there was
+an obstruction rendering it impossible for any boat to pass through it.
+That trial lasted for years. I was at Northampton during one of the
+trials. There was another case between two tradesmen, one of whom had
+been thrown amongst some implements, and in the first trial the verdict
+was for the defendant; in the next the plaintiff got one shilling
+damages.
+
+I have previously given particulars about the rejoicings we had when the
+railways came here. Just let me add one or two words to show it was not
+all gain when the railways came. You used, if you wanted to go to
+London, to get up early, and, by the Eastern Counties express, start at 6
+o’clock, and be four or five hours going. In going there and coming back
+you had done a hard day’s work. I used to find it necessary to be called
+in good time, and recollect asking John Frisby, who used to run after the
+mail, to call me. Instead of doing so a little before six, he called me
+at three. “John,” I said, “do you know the time?” “Yes,” he said, “I
+thought I had better be in good time.” When the railways were just made,
+there was very little difference in the time taken to go to London by the
+G.N.R. or G.E.R. A good fight took place between the two companies. You
+could run by Northampton for 5s., instead of 11s. or 12s., by the Great
+Northern, and I was once beguiled with a lady in going the cheap route.
+We started at seven and arrived in London at two in the afternoon. When
+we got there we were so tired we could not go out that day at all. We
+had return tickets, but gave them up and came back by the G.N. The Great
+Northern put a stop to it by running the direct journey there and back
+for 5s. I tried that, and, coming home, was pulled in by the window, the
+train being overcrowded, and sat not upon the seat, but the arms between,
+and experienced for several hours something like you have seen described
+after a man has been tarred and feathered, in riding a rail, or the
+sensation of the monk who went into the barber’s shop, and instead of
+paying the usual twopence, wanted to be shaved for the love of God.
+“Certainly,” said the barber; and he shaved the monk with cold water, a
+blunt razor, and a very short allowance of soap. At the conclusion of
+which the monk said, “Heaven defend me from ever being shaved again for
+the love of God.” He came to the conclusion, as I did, that it was
+better to have things at the ordinary price and have them in the regular
+way.
+
+Washington Irving tells the story of how one of the early settlers in the
+State of New York, not a very industrious person, walked out on the
+Catskill Mountains on a shooting expedition, and met with a party who
+were playing at skittles. They invited him to have some whisky and
+water, which he accepted, and immediately fell asleep, and at the close
+of half a century awoke. His faculties were in precisely the same
+condition as when he fell asleep, but the world had progressed around
+him. He went home and found those whom he had left young were grown old,
+and many of his neighbours had vanished from the scene. He had gone
+asleep under the Monarchy and awoke under the American Republic. That is
+the story, the humorous side of which is admirably painted by Washington
+Irving. It seems to me that in one point of view, at least when we
+exercise that wonderful faculty of memory that power of abstracting
+ourselves from what has passed and is passing before us, and carry
+ourselves back to the days of our youth, and for a few moments ignore all
+that has since passed around us that one is somewhat in the condition of
+Washington Irving’s hero of the tale in America! The history of a small
+city involves the history and the progress of the nation. The population
+of the country has increased relatively as the population of our own City
+has increased. The same causes which have led to our improvement have
+led to the improvement and the advancement in wealth, honour, and
+happiness of the increased population which these circumstances have
+brought into being. Nothing, I think, could be more distressing than to
+have our progress blotted out. That is not the way in which a wise and
+merciful Providence deals with his creatures. Our troubles, our
+afflictions, the memory of those we have lost, become pleasant memories.
+We do not fail to notice the beauty of the thought that those who are
+taken from us are not lost, but only gone before. And so it is in the
+life of a nation. If one were depicting the life of the nation for the
+last 50 year’s one would speak of the happiness that the great bulk of
+the population enjoyed.
+
+I have lived through the Chartist Riots, the Irish Famine, and the Cotton
+Famine, which tried the endurance of our artisans in the manufacturing
+districts, and caused in the minds of statesmen and of every thinking man
+the great apprehensions as to its bearing upon the industry and wealth
+and happiness of the country. I have lived through periods of war—the
+Crimean War, when the thoughts of everyone were directed to our Army in
+distress barely holding its own through that dreadful winter—and the
+Indian Mutiny. All these incidents in the life of a nation answer to the
+troubles and afflictions in the life of the individual. We have survived
+the troubles which faced us, and how can I do more than say that thoughts
+such as these remind us of our duties as Citizens, as individuals, as
+members of the great community, showing us how much we have to be
+thankful for and how much we are dependent on circumstances.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+ FINIS.
+
+ [Picture: Map of Whittlesey Mere, from “Fenland Notes & Queries.”]
+
+
+
+
+FOOTNOTES
+
+
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+following page, and the pages numbers in the list of illustrations have
+been changed accordingly. The filenames for the illustrations are their
+original page numbers.—DP.
+
+
+
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+<head>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=US-ASCII" />
+<title>Notes on Old Peterborough, by Andrew Percival</title>
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg eBook, Notes on Old Peterborough, by Andrew Percival
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: Notes on Old Peterborough
+
+
+Author: Andrew Percival
+
+
+
+Release Date: March 5, 2014 [eBook #45059]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII)
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES ON OLD PETERBOROUGH***
+</pre>
+<p>Transcribed from the 1905 Geo. C. Caster edition by David
+Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/tpb.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Andrew Percival (Taken in the year 1901)"
+title=
+"Andrew Percival (Taken in the year 1901)"
+src="images/tps.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">May be had bound in Cloth, Price
+1/6.</p>
+
+<div class="gapshortline">&nbsp;</div>
+<h1>Notes on<br />
+Old Peterborough,</h1>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY</span><br
+/>
+<b>ANDREW PERCIVAL, S.S.C.,</b></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">With Eight Illustrations,</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="GutSmall">INCLUDING</span></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">Portrait of the Author.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">Arranged, Published, and Sold by
+Special Permission<br />
+of the Author,</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span class="GutSmall">BY</span><br
+/>
+<b>The PETERBOROUGH ARCH&AElig;OLOGICAL SOCIETY.</b></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p0ab.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative graphic"
+title=
+"Decorative graphic"
+src="images/p0as.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><b>ONE SHILLING.</b></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p0bb.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Decorative graphic"
+title=
+"Decorative graphic"
+src="images/p0bs.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><span
+class="GutSmall">PETERBOROUGH:</span><br />
+<span class="GutSmall">GEO. C. CASTER, MARKET PLACE.</span><br />
+<span class="GutSmall">1905.</span></p>
+<p style="text-align: center">[<i>Reprinted from type of the</i>
+&ldquo;<i>Peterborough Advertiser</i>.&rdquo;]</p>
+<h2><a name="page3"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+3</span>PREFACE.</h2>
+<p>The Reminiscences of a Citizen whose memory goes back in
+detail for over Seventy Years, as in the case of the Contributor
+of these Notes, cannot fail to be of paramount interest and of
+antiquarian value.&nbsp; Especially in this case, where the
+distinguished Narrator has held a very foremost place in the
+Professional life and Voluntary Public Service of the City.&nbsp;
+Additionally interesting must they prove in the case of a City
+which has developed from a comparatively small parish into a
+populous industrial, commercial and residential Centre.&nbsp; The
+Peterborough Arch&aelig;ological Society has in these
+circumstances undertaken the duty of preserving and circulating
+in compact form the very valuable personal Recollections of Mr.
+Andrew Percival.&nbsp; In doing so the Society acknowledges its
+indebtedness to that gentleman for his ready permission to
+entrust them to its charge.&nbsp; The writer of this Preface was
+present at the old Wentworth Rooms, at Peterborough, in the years
+1883&ndash;4, when the addresses which formed the basis of this
+chronicle were delivered.&nbsp; He thus felt a continuity of
+interest when the manuscript was recently committed to him to
+prepare, with illustrations, for advance publication in the
+&ldquo;Peterborough Advertiser,&rdquo; in September, 1905, and in
+bringing up to date, during the indisposition of the Author,
+several of the chronological and statistical references.&nbsp;
+Otherwise the Notes remain exactly as set down and corrected by
+Mr. Percival.&nbsp; The Society expresses its thanks to Mr. A. C.
+Taylor for the use of the very excellent photo of Mr. Percival
+which forms the frontispiece; to Mr. T. N. Green (Ball &amp; Co.)
+for the Photo of the Old Bridge; and to Mr. Geo. C. Caster for
+the use of &ldquo;Whittlesey Mere&rdquo; block, from
+&ldquo;Fenland Notes &amp; Queries&rdquo;; most of the others
+having been specially taken and engraved for this
+Publication.</p>
+<p style="text-align: right">F. L.</p>
+<p><i>Peterborough</i>, <i>Oct.</i>, <i>1905</i>.</p>
+<h2><a name="page5"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+5</span>INDEX.</h2>
+<h3>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. <a name="citation5"></a><a
+href="#footnote5" class="citation">[5]</a></h3>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Portrait of Mr. Andrew Percival</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right">Title Page</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Peterborough Market Place in 1836</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Sedan Chair</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Cottages in Paston</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page20">20</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>The Old Bridge over the Nene</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Sexton Barns</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Peterborough Market Place in 1795</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page36">36</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Map of Whittlesey Mere</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page47">47</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<table>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span
+class="GutSmall">PAGE.</span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Advertisement, A peculiar</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>An Alibi</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Balls</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Barns</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Beacon, A lighted</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Beadle, The City</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Breweries</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Bridge, The old wooden</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Buckle&rsquo;s Brewery</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Burglaries</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Burial at Cross Roads</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Burial Ground, The Old</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Butcher&rsquo;s Piece, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: right">&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Cabbage Row</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Calculating Boy</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Castor, Old system of farming at</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Cattle Market</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Cemetery, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Coaches, Mail</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Constables, Parish</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Contrast, A</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page13">13</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Cost of Travelling</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p style="text-align: right">&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Distemper, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Draining the Great Level</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Epitaphs</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Executions</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Extraordinary Medley</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Fairs</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Fen around Peterborough</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Fen Drainage</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Fen Taxes</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Franking Letters</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page16">16</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Frisby&rsquo;s Feat</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Frog Hall</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Gaols</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Gas Works started</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page32">32</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Gates, Toll</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>God&rsquo;s Acre</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Guildhall, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hangings</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page41">41</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Hostelry, The Thorpe Road</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Infirmary, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page10">10</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Intelligent Fenmen</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Jaunt through the City</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Ladies and the Cattle</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Land, Improvement in value of</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Level, The Great</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Level, Draining the Great</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page23">23</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Lock-up Story</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mail Coaches</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Market, Cattle</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>,, The old</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page33">33</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>&bdquo; Wednesday</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page34">34</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mere, Whittlesey</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mill, The Old</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mill system of Draining</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Mud Case, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page44">44</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Nene Outfall, The</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Newspapers</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page38">38</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page39">39</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page40">40</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Newtown</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Notorious Family, A</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Oasis in the Desert</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page21">21</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Packets, River</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Parish Constables</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Paston</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page22">22</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Ponds</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Poor House</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Poor Law</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page30">30</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Post Office</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page37">37</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Postal Charges</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Railways</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page11">11</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span>, <span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page44">44</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Railways and Earl Fitzwilliam</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Retrospective</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page45">45</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>River Packets</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Robbery at the Vicarage</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page43">43</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Sedan Chairs</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Sexton Barns</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page29">29</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Smothering the Cathedral</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page14">14</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Snatched from the Sea</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page25">25</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Tales of the Coaching days</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page12">12</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Theatre</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page17">17</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Toll Gates</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page9">9</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Tombstone Rhymes</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page35">35</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Tythe Barn, Boroughbury</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page31">31</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Value of land improved</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page27">27</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><p>&nbsp;</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Whalley, Mr. G. H.</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page15">15</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td><p>Whittlesey Mere</p>
+</td>
+<td><p style="text-align: right"><span class="indexpageno"><a
+href="#page19">19</a></span></p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<h2><a name="page7"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 7</span>PART THE
+FIRST.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm"><span class="smcap">City Toll
+Gates</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">How Toll was
+Levied</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The
+Infirmary</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Old City
+Breweries</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The Calculating
+Boy</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Starting the
+Railways</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Frisby&rsquo;s
+Feat</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Tales of the Coaching
+Days</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Tally-Ho
+Coach</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">A
+Contrast</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">A Story of Lord
+Fitzwilliam</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Smothering the
+Cathedral</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The Old
+Mill</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Simpson&rsquo;s
+Packet</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Mr. Whalley&rsquo;s
+Joke</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Postal
+Charges</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Franking
+Letters</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The City
+Beadle</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Parish Constables and
+Gaol</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">A Notorious
+Family</span>.&mdash;<span
+class="smcap">Fairs</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">City
+Bells</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Sedan
+Chairs</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Whittlesey
+Mere</span>.</p>
+<p><span class="smcap">When</span> I came to Peterboro&rsquo; in
+Oct., 1833, I think our population was five or six
+thousand.&nbsp; In the month of August I came down to make
+arrangements for my being articled to the late Mr. Gates.&nbsp; I
+was taken charge of by my father, and protected by my sister, and
+we drove from Northampton, where my father was a medical man
+having an extensive practice, and could only spare one day.&nbsp;
+During the night a most extraordinary storm sprang up.&nbsp; We
+had to go back during that storm.&nbsp; There was an enormous
+destruction of timber on the road between here and Northampton,
+and in many other parts of the country.&nbsp; It was a storm such
+as very seldom rages in these latitudes in the summer
+months.&nbsp; In one part of the journey was a great avenue of
+trees, a considerable portion of which was destroyed.&nbsp; It
+was the property of a worthy squire, and I remember hearing it
+remarked, &ldquo;How much Mr. So-and-So will feel the destruction
+of his avenue.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Oh dear no,&rdquo; said the
+person spoken to, &ldquo;don&rsquo;t you know that that property
+is settled property, and he has no power of cutting timber, and
+he will be highly delighted.&nbsp; He thinks the avenue is <a
+name="page9"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 9</span>much improved,
+as it puts a very good sum of money into his pocket, which is
+very welcome to him.&rdquo;&nbsp; You see it is an ill wind that
+blows nobody good.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p8b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Peterborough Market Place in the Coaching Days. (From a Print,
+1836). &ldquo;Peterborough has much altered since those
+days.&rdquo;&mdash;Andrew Percival"
+title=
+"Peterborough Market Place in the Coaching Days. (From a Print,
+1836). &ldquo;Peterborough has much altered since those
+days.&rdquo;&mdash;Andrew Percival"
+src="images/p8s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>When I got here, the first thing I saw when I looked round the
+town was that it was confined by toll bars.&nbsp; There was a
+toll bar just over the bridge, where the little house since
+converted into shops then was.&nbsp; At the other end of the
+town, on the Lincoln Road, was another toll bar; on the Thorney
+Road was another, and at the back of Westgate another.&nbsp; Our
+town had four gates drawn across the four entrances; on the road
+now known as Lincoln Road East, then Crawthorne Lane, there was a
+side bar to prevent anyone getting out of the town without paying
+contributions.&nbsp; One enquired what these meant, because
+within a mile or two on each of the main roads you would find
+another toll bar, at which they duly took toll, and the only
+villages that could get into Peterborough without paying toll
+were Yaxley, Farcet, and Stanground, as the turnpike road toll on
+that road, the old London Road, was near Norman Cross.&nbsp;
+Otherwise, our system was so ingeniously contrived that you could
+not get into or out of Peterborough without paying town toll at
+the end of the street, which were tolls for the pavement.&nbsp;
+This was rather a peculiar system.&nbsp; I do not wish to quote
+Scripture, but you will recollect the enquiry, &ldquo;Of whom do
+the Kings of the earth take tribute?&nbsp; Of their own children
+or of strangers, and they said &lsquo;of strangers.&rsquo;&nbsp;
+Then the comment was &lsquo;Then are the children
+free!&rsquo;&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The system that our forefathers adopted for encouraging
+communication and traffic was this: They put a toll on for their
+pavements, from the payment of which they exempted themselves,
+and took it from the strangers that came into the place.&nbsp;
+The only exceptions were when the inhabitants of the place
+travelled on Sundays.&nbsp; Toll collectors were then authorised
+to take toll from them, and also from those who hired vehicles in
+the place, the result being if you were an inhabitant of the
+place, and had the luck to keep your carriage or gig or wagon, <a
+name="page10"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 10</span>or whatever
+it was, you might use the pavement as much as you pleased, and
+pay nothing.&nbsp; But if you were a poor person, or could only
+treat yourself occasionally with the luxury of a gig, or were
+obliged to hire a trap for business, yon were immediately taken
+toll of.</p>
+<p>The present Hospital or Infirmary was then a private
+dwelling-house.&nbsp; The Dispensary which existed then was a
+small house opposite the Old Burial Ground, the one now occupied
+by Mr. Payling, the dentist.&nbsp; After some years, it was
+removed from this place to what is now the Police Station in
+Newtown.&nbsp; Soon after this, the Earl Fitzwilliam purchased
+the present building and presented it to the City, a monument of
+his appreciation of the good that had been done in a small way by
+the existing buildings, and which, I think, in the present
+arrangements, fully carried out his Lordship&rsquo;s benevolent
+wishes.</p>
+<p>There were two considerable features of Peterborough which
+have entirely disappeared.&nbsp; Where Queen Street and North
+Street now stand were two large breweries, known as
+Buckle&rsquo;s Brewery and Squires&rsquo;s Brewery.&nbsp; They
+were quite institutions of the place, and it always strikes me as
+a very strange thing that they should have entirely disappeared,
+as one of them would have been larger than all the breweries now
+in Peterborough.&nbsp; Buckles&rsquo; Brewery was certainly a
+very remarkable one, and carried on with great energy and
+spirit.&nbsp; There was one peculiarity they had&mdash;that some
+friends of the partners could assemble on Easter Monday and spend
+the afternoon in playing at marbles.&nbsp; I have spent pleasant
+afternoons there on Easter Mondays.&nbsp; There were two large
+tuns or barrels in which the beer was kept, one of which was
+called Mrs. Clarke, and the other the Duke of York, to perpetuate
+a scandal at the time when they were constructed.&nbsp; A very
+hospitable time always followed the game at marbles.</p>
+<p>Buckles&rsquo; Brewery was the cause of another peculiar
+circumstance.&nbsp; On one occasion there visited the town for
+the amusement of the people, a calculating boy.&nbsp; He went <a
+name="page11"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 11</span>through, his
+entertainment with great success, and at last one of our worthy
+inhabitants got up and asked the question &ldquo;How many gallons
+does Mr. Buckles&rsquo; great copper hold?&rdquo;&nbsp; The boy
+said he could not tell.&nbsp; &ldquo;No; I thought you could
+not,&rdquo; was the reply.&nbsp; Our worthy citizen had forgotten
+to give the dimensions of the copper, and went away rejoicing
+over the fact that he had puzzled the calculating boy!</p>
+<p>He reminds me very much of a story one has heard in connection
+with our own professional experience.&nbsp; A witness was called
+to prove an assault, which consisted in a man having been knocked
+down by a stone thrown at him.&nbsp; The counsel was anxious to
+ascertain the size of the stone.&nbsp; The witness said &ldquo;do
+you want to know how big it was?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Yes,&rdquo;
+said the counsel.&nbsp; &ldquo;The size do you mean?&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Yes.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Well, it was
+biggish.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Well, I want you to tell me how big
+it was&rdquo;!&nbsp; &ldquo;Well, sir, if you want me to tell you
+how big it was, I should think it was as big as a lump o&rsquo;
+chalk.&rdquo;&nbsp; Now, I think the gentleman who put the
+question about the copper, and the witness, must have been very
+nearly related.</p>
+<p>When I arrived in the City, it became very important to me to
+know how I could get away from it.&nbsp; I lived at
+Northampton.&nbsp; Between Peterborough and Northampton there are
+now eleven trains a day.&nbsp; When I came to Peterborough in
+1833, and for some years afterwards, the only communication
+between the town of Northampton and the City of Peterborough was
+a one-horse carrier&rsquo;s cart, which came twice a week, and I
+think the large proportion of its business consisted in carrying
+parcels from the Probate Office at Northampton to the Probate
+Office at Peterborough.&nbsp; For coaches we were pretty well
+off.&nbsp; Two mails ran through Peterborough, the Boston Coach,
+and the Coach to Hull.&nbsp; We used to go shares with the town
+of Stamford with a London Coach.&nbsp; One of our townsmen ran a
+coach to Stilton daily, where it joined the coach from
+Stamford.&nbsp; At one time that coach carried the letter bag,
+and on one occasion it started without the bag.</p>
+<p><a name="page12"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 12</span>There
+was a man known as &ldquo;Old John Frisby,&rdquo; who was not
+quite &ldquo;all there,&rdquo; and this man went after the coach
+with the letter bag, and overtook it at Stilton.&nbsp; The poor
+man was under the impression that he had done the State a great
+service and thought he ought to receive a pension, and he daily
+expected it until his death.</p>
+<p>The Mail Coaches were very comfortable for travelling in fine
+weather, and an eight or ten hours&rsquo; journey was very
+pleasant, providing you did not ride inside.&nbsp; A journey to
+London and Edinburgh occupied two whole days and nights.&nbsp;
+The expense of such a mode of travelling was very great, being
+five or six times as much as the ordinary first class railway
+fare.&nbsp; Every fifty or sixty miles the Coachman would touch
+his hat and say, &ldquo;I leave you here, sir,&rdquo; which meant
+that you were to give him a fee.&nbsp; The guard would do the
+same, and when your luggage was put up, the ostler came to
+you.&nbsp; If you travelled post or in &ldquo;a yellow and
+two,&rdquo; as it was called, you had to pay 1s. 6d. a mile,
+beside the toll bars, and 3d. a mile for the post boy, as well as
+something more that he always expected.&nbsp; The 3d. a mile for
+the post boy, as his regular fee, is about equal to the highest
+first class railway fare that is paid on any railway in the
+country.</p>
+<p>Just conceive what a change there is in the communication and
+you do not wonder that the introduction of the railway system has
+made a stationary nation into a nation of travellers.&nbsp; After
+a time things did improve a little.&nbsp; The Birmingham Railway
+was made at considerable cost.&nbsp; When I wanted to go to
+Northampton, for many years I had to get up at six o&rsquo;clock
+in the morning, hire a gig to go to Thrapston, where I caught the
+Cambridge coach, which ran in connection with the coach at
+Oxford.&nbsp; It cost about &pound;4 to go home and come back
+again.&nbsp; When the Blisworth railway was opened, a coach was
+set up from Lynn to Blisworth six days in the week.&nbsp; This
+was a great convenience, and was very well supported.&nbsp; There
+were two coachmen.&nbsp; One was very grave and serious and the
+other light and frivolous.&nbsp; Everybody knew them <a
+name="page13"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 13</span>very well
+indeed.&nbsp; It was very amusing to travel with them.</p>
+<p>At last, the Northampton Railway was projected, and it was
+plain to those men that their reign was coming to an end; but
+they used to endeavour to convert you to the belief that it was
+far better for things to remain as they were.&nbsp; The light and
+frivolous one used to sing a song in praise of the &ldquo;Tally
+Ho&rdquo; Coach.&nbsp; I remember the chorus was:</p>
+<blockquote><p>Let the steam pot hiss<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; Until it is hot.<br />
+Give me the speed of<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp; The Tally-ho trot!</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The other coachman used to appeal to your fears, and say how
+dreadful it was when a railway accident
+occurred&mdash;&ldquo;when an accident occurred to the
+coach&mdash;there you are!&nbsp; Just fancy an accident at 20 or
+30 miles an hour; when that happens, where are you?&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Well, we have survived it, and I am not sure that he was
+accurate in his per centage of those injured in coach and railway
+accidents.&nbsp; I have known some very fatal and distressing
+accidents bearing a very large proportion of injuries and deaths
+to those in the coach.&nbsp; I may mention that the Lynn coach of
+Messrs. Hill was very good to take you to the sea, it was very
+hard work to get to the beach in these days.&nbsp; I believe
+Skegness consisted of a single house.&nbsp; The nearest place was
+Yarmouth, and Messrs. Hill&rsquo;s car took you to Lynn, where
+you could join the Birmingham and Yarmouth mail.&nbsp; I have
+never forgotten my first visit to Yarmouth when a boy.&nbsp; From
+the Norwich Road you caught the first view of the sea.&nbsp; As
+you enter Yarmouth now by rail you go in over the marshes, and
+the last two or three miles are by the side of muddy water, and
+you cannot see the sea until you get on the beach.&nbsp; The
+contrast between the way by the old coach and by the rail is very
+striking, indeed.</p>
+<p>In the year 1842 or 1843 it was rumoured that the London and
+North-Western Company were about to feel their way eastward, and
+the project for making the Peterborough and Northampton Railway
+was put into shape.&nbsp; Our wildest dreams never expected a <a
+name="page14"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+14</span>railway.&nbsp; We had a coach, and that was quite a
+novelty.&nbsp; The Bishop and Dean and Chapter had a good deal of
+property on the line, and strongly opposed the railway.&nbsp;
+When the Bill came into the House of Lords it was, to our great
+delight, passed by a majority of One.&nbsp; There is an anecdote
+of Lord Fitzwilliam, who was an opponent of the Bill.&nbsp; That
+one day his Lordship was coming down by train, and in the same
+carriage was one of those gentlemen who knew everything.&nbsp;
+This gentleman was giving to a friend a history of the line, and
+when passing Alwalton Lynch said: &ldquo;That is the road to
+Milton Park, and do you know that Lord Fitzwilliam opposed the
+Bill because they would not make him a station
+there?&rdquo;&nbsp; A little further on the train stopped at
+Overton Station, and his Lordship got out.&nbsp; Just as he was
+shutting the door he said to the gentleman: &ldquo;That little
+anecdote which you just told your friend about that crossing is
+not true, and when you say anything more about it you may say
+that Lord Fitzwilliam told you so.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>The Northampton line was opened in 1845, and I remember being
+in the Cathedral when the first engine came down.&nbsp; It
+stopped at the end of the Fair Meadow, for the Dean and Chapter
+prevented the line being brought any nearer the town, as they
+would not have Bridge Fair interfered with.&nbsp; The engine was
+only about one-third the size of what they are now, but when it
+blew off steam people said they would never be able to hear
+anything in the Cathedral!&nbsp; Yet now no notice is taken of
+what was looked upon then as a deafening noise.</p>
+<p>We had next the London and York Railway, which then crossed
+the Thorpe Road near where the old mill stood.&nbsp; Lord
+Fitzwilliam compelled the Company to put the line by the side of
+the Syston and Peterborough Railway, where it is now.&nbsp; There
+were some amusing incidents connected with the Syston
+Railway.&nbsp; It was strongly opposed by Lord Harborough, and
+there were riots and fights between his men and the surveyors of
+the line.&nbsp; I will say no more about the railway system.</p>
+<p>The communications with Peterborough would be very incomplete
+if one forgot the <a name="page15"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+15</span>river, because the river in those days was very
+necessary to the comfort of the town.&nbsp; I daresay now, if I
+were to quote Cowper&rsquo;s lines:</p>
+<blockquote><p>Nen&rsquo;s barge-laden waves,</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>people might say they did not think the load is very
+heavy.&nbsp; But before the construction of the railway, and for
+some year&rsquo;s afterwards, barges were found in very great
+abundance.&nbsp; We derived our whole coal supply from the river,
+and it was our great channel for carrying corn and timber.&nbsp;
+The importance of the Nene to the counties through which it
+passed was very great.&nbsp; Amongst other things was a Packet
+called &ldquo;Simpson&rsquo;s Packet,&rdquo; and another
+belonging to Messrs. James and Thomas Hill, which conveyed light
+goods and passengers between Peterborough and Wisbech.&nbsp; I
+recollect the old gentleman who commanded the packet held a very
+high rank in the Navy indeed.&nbsp; He was a wooden-legged old
+gentleman, very much respected, and known by the name of Admiral
+Russell.&nbsp; He was commander of the Packet for many
+years.&nbsp; I do not know who succeeded him, but someone who did
+not attain so high a rank.</p>
+<p>There was a joke against Mr. Whalley, M.P., that he promised
+to make Peterborough a Seaport.&nbsp; If the projected scheme had
+been fairly carried out according to the original intention of
+the promoters, there would not have been a deal of money
+wasted.&nbsp; Some think even now it should not be given up
+altogether, if only for the purpose of preventing the railway
+companies from putting too high prices on the carriage of goods
+in cases where speed of transit is not essential.&nbsp; Goods
+used to be brought from Wisbech in lighters, and it was a serious
+thing in frosty weather, because all our coals were brought by
+the river, and when the frost lasted long there was danger of a
+coal famine.</p>
+<p>Now I may mention about the postage.&nbsp; When I first knew
+Peterborough the postage of a letter to London was 8d.&nbsp; A
+little further on it would be 10d., and go on, until it came to
+about 1s. 4d.&nbsp; When you were going to London in those days
+you would <a name="page16"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+16</span>receive visits from your friends, who would ask you to
+take letters for them and put them in the 2d. Post in London, and
+sometimes it happened that these letters were found in your coat
+pocket when you got home again!&nbsp; The postage of a
+&frac12;oz. letter was 8d., but if you cut the sheet of paper in
+two and used one-half as an envelope, the postage was 1s.
+4d.&nbsp; If you divided the sheet of paper again and wrote a
+cheque on one quarter of it, and the receipt to be signed and
+returned on the other and put them into the other half sheet, the
+postage was again doubled.&nbsp; When I was at school my eldest
+brother, in a fit of benevolence, sent me 2s. 6d. in a letter,
+and I was delighted until I was told the postage was 2s.
+8d.&nbsp; The matron, however, found a way out of it.&nbsp; She
+put the 2s. 8d. down to the governor&rsquo;s account, and I had
+the half-crown.</p>
+<p>These rates of postage were very heavy, but Members of
+Parliament had the privilege of what was called
+&ldquo;franking&rdquo; letters.&nbsp; They were continually being
+applied to for these franks.&nbsp; They were only allowed,
+however, to send a certain number of letters, and you always ran
+the risk of having a bill sent in from the Post Office to the
+person having the privilege of &ldquo;franking,&rdquo; and they
+would send a footman to you, and you would then have to pay your
+share.&nbsp; This privilege of franking was abused, and one would
+hear that so and so had franked a ham, and one person was said to
+have franked a piano!&nbsp; Whether this was the truth or not I
+do not know, but it shows the advantage of getting rid of
+exceptional privileges.</p>
+<p>A few words about the government of our City.&nbsp; When I
+first came to the Town, the principal governor, the one who made
+the greatest impression on my youthful imagination, at all
+events, was the Beadle.&nbsp; He was a very important
+personage.&nbsp; His principal duty was to see the tramps out of
+the town.&nbsp; He could not arrest them, but had to
+&ldquo;fidget&rdquo; them out.&nbsp; He was always chosen with
+special reference to his age and infirmity.&nbsp; He had a long
+robe, a mace, and a cocked hat.&nbsp; He looked very imposing,
+almost like Old Scarlett in the Cathedral put into a long coat, a
+pair of knee breeches, and a cocked <a name="page17"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 17</span>hat.&nbsp; He was paid in this way:
+At the Quarter Sessions he waited upon the Magistrates with a
+bill: &ldquo;A man and a woman sent out Stamford Road,&rdquo;
+&ldquo;Two tramps and a child, Lincoln Road,&rdquo; and so
+on.&nbsp; As we say educationally, he was paid by results.&nbsp;
+He was allowed so much according to his services.&nbsp; He was
+the principal officer of the place, and was appointed by the
+Feoffees.</p>
+<p>About the year 1857 we were protected by Parish Constables,
+and I think the principal duty of the constable was to report
+himself at the Quarter Sessions.&nbsp; We had two gaols&mdash;we
+could not do with one!&nbsp; One of these was that in the Minster
+Precincts, recently vacated by the School of Art.&nbsp; The other
+stood upon what is now the site of the Cumbergate
+Almshouses.&nbsp; The one in the Minster Yard was maintained by
+Lord Exeter as Lord Paramount.&nbsp; The other one, I think, was
+paid for by the Magistrates.&nbsp; In 1840 we got an Act of
+Parliament for a new gaol, and it was brought about in this way:
+In about the year 1838 or 1839 a person walking through the
+Minster Yard saw a head pop up out of the pavement, a body
+followed, walked off, and was never heard of again.&nbsp; The man
+had simply undermined the foundations of his cell with a knife or
+bone and disappeared!&nbsp; He was the first that discovered that
+way of escape!</p>
+<p>About the same time in Peterborough was a family named
+Rogers.&nbsp; They were the black sheep of the place.&nbsp; The
+head of the family was known as Jimmy Rogers, and he took it into
+his head to dine one day upon sheep&rsquo;s head and pluck which
+he stole from a butcher&rsquo;s shop.&nbsp; He was ordered to be
+put into the Feoffees&rsquo; Gaol.&nbsp; He picked his way out,
+and this thief of the district and his family disappeared and
+never came back again.&nbsp; It was thought to be time we had a
+gaol, and the present building on the Thorpe Road was
+erected.</p>
+<p>You must not think that we had no amusements.&nbsp; We used to
+have a theatre on the site where the Corn Exchange now stands,
+and a very good theatre it was.&nbsp; A very good company used to
+come for about three months in the summer, and a very good
+entertainment was afforded.&nbsp; The Bishop and <a
+name="page19"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 19</span>his Lady of
+those days used to make a point of attending during the season,
+and it was quite the thing to go to the theatre.</p>
+<p>The Fairs were very important in those days.&nbsp; The
+importance must not be judged by what is seen of them now.&nbsp;
+Bridge Fair was then most important.&nbsp; It shows the antiquity
+of the fairs that they had a special Court.&nbsp; All fairs and
+markets of any antiquity had this Court which was to do justice
+between man and man in any disputes arising at the fairs.</p>
+<p>We had two Balls regularly, one for the National School and
+one for the Infirmary.&nbsp; When political feeling ran high one
+Party would go to the National School Ball and the other to the
+Infirmary Ball.&nbsp; At other times each party would go to
+both.</p>
+<p>Peterborough was one of the last places in which Sedan chairs
+flourished.&nbsp; They went on until some time after the railways
+were established, which altered everything.&nbsp; The men were
+too much occupied to be able to go with the Sedan chairs when
+they were wanted, and so they gradually died out.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p18b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"A Peterborough Sedan Chair. &ldquo;Peterborough was one of the
+last places in which Sedan chairs flourished.&rdquo;&mdash;Andrew
+Percival"
+title=
+"A Peterborough Sedan Chair. &ldquo;Peterborough was one of the
+last places in which Sedan chairs flourished.&rdquo;&mdash;Andrew
+Percival"
+src="images/p18s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Whittlesey Mere existed in those days.&nbsp; It was thus
+called because it had nothing whatever to do with
+Whittlesey.&nbsp; It was several miles away.&nbsp; Whittlesey
+Mere was one of the wonders of Huntingdonshire, Whittlesey being
+in Cambridgeshire.&nbsp; Whittlesey Mere was a charming place for
+skating in frosty weather and for fishing in the summer time,
+when there was water enough, and for boating under the same
+circumstances.&nbsp; Sometimes, when there had been a dry time it
+became so shallow that you stirred up mud from the bottom when
+you attempted to sail.&nbsp; It was very good for fishing.&nbsp;
+One day we were out with a party, and we stopped at old Bellamy
+Bradford&rsquo;s landing place.&nbsp; It shelved off so gradually
+that the distinction between grass and water was so graduated
+that a large pike, probably in pursuit of a fish, had gone so far
+as to be prevented from getting back to his native element.&nbsp;
+The place was surrounded by reed shoals, where reeds for
+thatching grew, and these were the resort of innumerable
+starlings.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page20"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 20</span>
+<a href="images/p20b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Photo. T. N. Green. Ball &amp; Co., Peterborough. A bit of Old
+Paston. Peterborough people used to be married and buried in the
+enclosed parish of Paston&mdash;a kind of oasis in the
+desert.&mdash;Andrew Percival"
+title=
+"Photo. T. N. Green. Ball &amp; Co., Peterborough. A bit of Old
+Paston. Peterborough people used to be married and buried in the
+enclosed parish of Paston&mdash;a kind of oasis in the
+desert.&mdash;Andrew Percival"
+src="images/p20s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2><a name="page21"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 21</span>PART
+THE SECOND.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm"><span class="smcap">An Oasis in the
+Desert</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Old System of Castor
+Farming</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">A Lighted
+Beacon</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The Fen Around
+Us</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Draining the Great
+Level</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The Mill System of
+Draining</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Snatched From the
+Sea</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">How Land Improved in
+Value</span>.&mdash;&ldquo;<span class="smcap">Intelligent
+Fenmen</span>.&rdquo;&mdash;<span class="smcap">Old Town
+Bridge</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Old-time Jaunt through
+the City</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Poor House and New
+Gaol</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Thorpe Road
+Hostelry</span>.&mdash;<span
+class="smcap">Newtown</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The Great
+Breweries and the Ponds</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Cabbage
+Row</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Burial at Cross
+Roads</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Frog
+Hall</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Gas Works
+Started</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Old
+Market</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ladies and the
+Cattle</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Wednesday
+Market</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">A Curiosity
+Market</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">God&rsquo;s
+Acre</span>.</p>
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> great point which strikes us
+all, and which strikes everyone considering the history of the
+last seventy years in the City of Peterborough is the very great
+increase in the population, and when one began to think how it
+came about we used to say &ldquo;it is owing to the
+railways.&rdquo;&nbsp; But that is like telling you that the
+world, as the Indians say, is supported on the back of a
+tortoise!&nbsp; You want to know why the railways were wanted,
+what the tortoise stands upon, because if you look into
+statistics seventy years ago, before the railways, the population
+of Peterborough was considerably increasing, and the populations
+of agricultural districts altogether were very much increasing,
+and when you go a little further, if you look at all into the
+history of the land around Peterborough, or the country
+altogether, you will find within a century there had been a great
+change.&nbsp; Now, take for instance the immediate neighbourhood
+of Peterborough.&nbsp; My recollection of it begins, as I have
+said, at the latter end of 1833, at the commencement of the last
+century.&nbsp; I think the only parish, if I except Fletton, the
+only enclosed parish <a name="page22"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 22</span>within some few miles of this place
+was the parish of Paston.</p>
+<p>There you will rind the church, surrounded by old trees, and
+the parish differed very much from others.&nbsp; If you look into
+the Churchyard there you will find a great many names of the
+inhabitants of Peterborough and other parishes outside
+Paston.&nbsp; If you look into the Paston register you will find
+marriages solemnised between inhabitants not belonging to Paston,
+the undoubted fact being that the enclosed parish of Paston led
+people to desire they should be married and buried there.&nbsp;
+Paston was a kind of oasis in the desert.</p>
+<p>Most of the parishes around here were in the position and
+character of Castor, which until recently was the only open field
+parish within many miles of this place.&nbsp; I was riding
+through Castor field some years ago, before it was enclosed, with
+a few farmers, when one turned round and said: &ldquo;How should
+you like to farm this parish?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Not at
+all,&rdquo; was the reply.&nbsp; A man in the parish who had a
+farm of a hundred acres would have to go to his farm in four
+different parts of the parish&mdash;some against Ailsworth,
+Milton Park, Alwalton, and so on, perhaps scattered in pieces of
+one acre, two roods, and so forth.&nbsp; So that with a large
+farm a man would have to go to a farm of a hundred acres to as
+many different places two or three miles apart.&nbsp; The pieces
+were so narrow that they were like ribbons; you could plough
+lengthways but not crossways.&nbsp; As soon as you turned, you
+got on to your neighbour&rsquo;s land, which was frequently a
+subject of dispute.&nbsp; Conceive the state of the cultivation
+of the country generally when that was the system not only in one
+parish, but in the general bulk, at all events, in this part of
+the kingdom.</p>
+<p>Peterborough was open.&nbsp; All the parishes, to my
+knowledge, from Peterborough to Deeping, and east to west, have
+been enclosed since 1812.&nbsp; There was a beacon lighted at
+night to light the passengers over the weary waste, since brought
+into cultivation.&nbsp; Just conceive, if you can, the state in
+which this part of the country was then, and in what it is now,
+and consider the great increase of corn that can be grown, and
+not <a name="page23"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 23</span>only
+corn that can be grown, but the stock that can be fed by the
+cultivation of roots and the introduction of bone manure, and
+then you get some idea of the increased production of the
+country, that rendered improved roads, terminating in railroads,
+necessary.&nbsp; For the same reason, the marvellous increase in
+the manufacturing districts has been kept pace with in the
+agricultural production of the country, another feature in our
+neighbourhood.</p>
+<p>If you begin at Cambridge and draw a line along the high land
+by St. Ives, east of Peterborough, by Spalding and Boston, down
+to the Humber, you will find the tract of land known as the Fen
+Country.&nbsp; That country has undergone within the last seventy
+or eighty years, or a great part of it, a change even more
+striking than that which has passed over the uplands.&nbsp; At
+first you would be inclined to doubt whether there were any such
+places as the Fens at all.&nbsp; If you say to anybody
+&ldquo;Don&rsquo;t you live in the Fens&rdquo;? the reply will be
+&ldquo;Oh, no.&rdquo;&nbsp; At Peterborough we are not in the
+Fens.&nbsp; Of course not!&nbsp; There is Flag Fen, and there is
+Borough Fen, but we are on high ground, and not in the Fen, and
+you will find, even if you go east of Wisbech, where the land is
+called marsh land, which sounds rather funny, that the farmers
+and graziers there will say they don&rsquo;t live in the
+Fens.&nbsp; And walking towards the sea you will always be told
+you have come to the wrong place, you must go a little further,
+and then you will find the Fen country!&nbsp; But still, take the
+Fens as we know them, extending from Peterborough to Cambridge,
+and down by Boston nearly to the Humber.</p>
+<p>I will confine my observations to that which most comes within
+my own knowledge, that district of the Fens known as the Bedford
+Level, called the South, the Middle, and the North Level.&nbsp;
+From the beginning of Crowland on the North, down to, say, the
+Middle by March and Lynn, and the South down to Cambridge.&nbsp;
+In the year 1637 a Charter was passed by Charles I. for the
+improvement of that country, and we form some notion of what it
+must have been&mdash;the weary waste of waters it must have
+been&mdash;<a name="page24"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+24</span>from the preamble of the Charter of Incorporation.&nbsp;
+It is described as being generally covered with water, of little
+advantage to mankind, except yielding some few river fish and
+water fowl, that is when you may catch them, and on lucky days
+you may shoot wild ducks.&nbsp; Adventurers had endeavoured to
+make lines of meadows, which had made such progress that it was
+hoped this place, which had lately presented nothing to the eye
+but waters and a few reeds thinly scattered here and there,
+might, under Divine mercy, become some of it pleasant pasture for
+cattle, with many houses belonging to the inhabitants.&nbsp; That
+seemed to have been the extreme notion of what could be made of
+that country in the way of production.&nbsp; Going on to the year
+1830, when the last history of the Bedford Level was written by
+Mr. Samuel Wells, well known as the Register of the Corporation,
+he speaks of it seventy-five years ago as a matter of
+congratulation that at that time, when they had improved it
+sufficiently to grow oats and cole seed, that the cultivation of
+wheat had begun to extend itself into the Fen country.&nbsp; He
+spoke of it almost as a novelty, and says that the Corporation,
+soon after its formation, had interfered to prevent the
+inhabitants, occupiers, and owners of property from improving and
+draining by mills.&nbsp; He says that the system of drainage by
+mills was abandoned in consequence of the result of the suit to
+prevent it being favourable to the Corporation.</p>
+<p>However, in a short time, after many struggles, the Level
+becoming so inundated by the choking of interior drains, the
+defective state of the rivers, and neglected improvement of
+outfalls, the Corporation found it impossible to resist the
+importunity of the country to resort to artificial drainage, and
+therefore waived their objection, and allowed a return of the
+mill system.&nbsp; The mill system up to 1830 consisted simply of
+working a machine by wind to lift the water out of some embanked
+portion of the Fens into a drain at a higher level, to conduct it
+to one of the main drains of the Corporation to the outfall in
+the sea.&nbsp; Seventy years ago, Mr. Wells tells us, in <a
+name="page25"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 25</span>the whole
+district of the Bedford Level&mdash;350,000 acres&mdash;there
+were only five steam engines, one being in the parish of
+Newboro&rsquo;, put up on the enclosuse.&nbsp; He says there was
+a general opinion that steam drainage would be further
+prosecuted, but this depended upon the finances of the district,
+and he goes on to say many intelligent Fenmen indulged the hope
+of acquiring a natural drainage, when the result of the work now
+undertaken, in a greater or a less degree on all three levels,
+can be fully understood and ascertained.&nbsp; The author,
+however, says he cannot rank himself amongst the number of those
+sanguine persons.&nbsp; He thought it great progress to get five
+steam engines, and hoping they would get more, he, as an
+intelligent Fenman, thought it was as much as he could
+anticipate.</p>
+<p>I think in the year 1827 or 1828 one of those works, the Nene
+outfall, had been undertaken, the object of which was to make the
+channel to the sea through the high and shifting sands, which
+were at the entrance of the Wash, through which the waters of the
+Nene found their way to the sea.&nbsp; It was carried out.&nbsp;
+I think Mr. Tycho Wing was the great inaugurator and Sir Jno.
+Rennie the engineer.&nbsp; It was so thoroughly successful that
+it at once allowed the interior drainage of the country to be
+vastly improved, and not only so, but up to the present time, by
+the operation of the Nene Outfall Act, no less than 5,800 acres
+of land have been actually reclaimed from the sea, the value of
+which is at least from &pound;40 to &pound;50 per acre.&nbsp; Not
+only was the Fen district materially improved, but a tract of
+country equal to a large parish was obtained, the value of which
+alone would, in a measure, repay all the expense of the
+undertaking.&nbsp; Then they went on, following the success of
+that, to get the North Level Act in 1830.&nbsp; The effect of
+that was that water mills and steam mills disappeared, and they
+now have natural drainage by the water finding its way by
+gravitation to the sea.</p>
+<p>In 1840 a similar work was begun in the Middle Level, and they
+now have natural drainage in nearly the whole of that
+Level.&nbsp; The only exception is about Whittlesey <a
+name="page27"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 27</span>Mere, where
+they have a steam pump and a steam water-wheel to carry away the
+floods.&nbsp; What was the effect of that?&nbsp; In the first
+place a tax was put on.&nbsp; In the Middle Level and North Level
+the yearly tax may be taken at about 8s. 6d. or 9s. per acre
+altogether.&nbsp; It sounds a very large sum where the land
+itself, in many instances, was worth next to nothing before, but
+the effect has been that in that district, I am not exaggerating
+when I say, leaving the tax out of the question, that is, after
+putting the tax on the land and comparing it to what it was
+before, the land is worth double, and, in many instances, treble,
+and where land without the tax was worth &pound;10 an acre, it is
+now worth &pound;20 or &pound;30.&nbsp; I have had through my
+hands deeds of an estate in the Fen.&nbsp; It contained 200
+acres.&nbsp; In 1824 it was sold for &pound;1,155; in 1829 for
+&pound;1,880.&nbsp; In 1882, notwithstanding the time of
+depression, it was sold for &pound;5,000, without any special
+bargain.&nbsp; Just think of the increase in the value of the
+country in consequence of what has been done, and I think you
+will see at once why the district has required railway
+accommodation.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p26b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"City wooden bridge over the Nene. Replaced 1872. Old Photo by
+William Ball, Peterborough"
+title=
+"City wooden bridge over the Nene. Replaced 1872. Old Photo by
+William Ball, Peterborough"
+src="images/p26s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>Mr. Wells speaks of the &ldquo;Intelligent
+Fenmen.&rdquo;&nbsp; I believe in their intelligence!&nbsp; In
+their Parliamentary battles they are as warlike as people can be
+in protecting the valuable interests of which they are the
+custodians, and counsel in Parliamentary committees have often
+said: &ldquo;How well those men understand their business; how
+ready they are, and what talent they show in stating and
+maintaining their cause.&rdquo;&nbsp; That is rather a
+digression, but it accounts very much, I think, for the great
+changes in this part of the country to which we belong.</p>
+<p>Now let me endeavour to show the changes in Peterborough
+proper.&nbsp; I will supply an omission, with an apology to my
+old friend, the old Town Bridge.&nbsp; I am ashamed to find that
+in my previous notes I had omitted to say anything about
+it.&nbsp; That was rather extraordinary, because I had my mind on
+it, and when I first came from Northampton my first acquaintance
+with Peterborough must have been &ldquo;over that
+bridge.&rdquo;&nbsp; There is an old proverb which says
+&ldquo;Find no fault <a name="page29"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 29</span>with the bridge which carries you
+over.&rdquo;&nbsp; With every disposition to be charitable, that
+is the only good thing I can say of the old Bridge.&nbsp; It
+carried me over, and there was no instance that it ever fell in,
+but there was always a fear that it would fall, and everybody
+thought it ought to fall, but it did not, and I mention this
+because I think our new Bridge is a striking instance of the
+public spirit of the inhabitants of Peterborough and the
+neighbourhood in subscribing the cost of one-half of it, and also
+of the fairness and liberality which the county authorities
+displayed in meeting the inhabitants in assisting to get a new
+bridge&mdash;a credit to the district&mdash;rather than patch up
+that shabby, ramshackle concern, which, patched from time to
+time, might have outlived another hundred years, and a suspicion
+that it would fall, but never actually falling.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center">
+<a href="images/p28b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"From an Old Print. Sexton Barns. &ldquo;A Fine Old Building;
+an object which vanished when the Railways were made, because now
+it is the Site of the G.N. Station.&rdquo;&mdash;Andrew Percival"
+title=
+"From an Old Print. Sexton Barns. &ldquo;A Fine Old Building;
+an object which vanished when the Railways were made, because now
+it is the Site of the G.N. Station.&rdquo;&mdash;Andrew Percival"
+src="images/p28s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<p>We will walk up Bridge Street and take a turn round the
+outskirts of the town as I knew it years ago.&nbsp; Going past
+the toll-bar in Cowgate we come to the building known as Sexton
+Barns; probably some of you recollect it, a fine old building; it
+was an object that vanished when the railways were made, because
+now it is the site of the G.N. Station.&nbsp; There was a
+handsome tree near the Crescent, where Peterborough began to
+stray into the country; the Crescent had been erected four or
+five years before.&nbsp; Opposite was the house where Mrs. Cattel
+lived, and then the house where Dr. Skrimshire lived (now Dr.
+Keeton&rsquo;s).&nbsp; Walking a little further, we came to the
+Town Mill; very much like the Town Bridge, it had seen better
+days and, like the Bridge, it had had a history.&nbsp; It had
+been the property of the Dean and Chapter, and, without the
+smallest doubt, it came down to them from the Abbot and Convent,
+who were the Lords of this district.&nbsp; These town mills were
+mills which the largest landowners kept for the accommodation of
+their tenants, who were thereby provided with the means of
+grinding their corn at a small cost, but were compelled to use
+them and pay grist to the millers, and the old law books contain
+much on the subject.&nbsp; Its need passed away, the <a
+name="page30"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 30</span>mill got into
+private hands; it seems to have become worse and worse, and at
+last it was burnt down, and we know it no more, the very site
+having been utilised in an exchange of property for the erection
+of the present King&rsquo;s School in Park Road.</p>
+<p>On the opposite side is the Union Workhouse, built about 1834
+or 1835.&nbsp; It has been very much beautified, but it is not a
+handsome building now.&nbsp; It has had a new front or
+facing.&nbsp; I may mention in passing that I recollect at one
+time there was a persistent cry made by some portion of the Press
+against the new Poor Law, against the hardship of separating man
+and wife, and so on, but never was so persistent an attempt made
+in that part of a portion of the Press with such signal failure
+at the time, although since come to pass where desirable.&nbsp;
+The new Poor Law took the place of one that was probably ruining
+the country, and is, in these later days, itself under
+review.</p>
+<p>We then walk along the road back towards Peterborough, and we
+find the Gaol and Sessions House.&nbsp; This Gaol was built in
+1840.&nbsp; There was a fight between the Dean and Chapter, and
+their Lessee, and the Magistrates about the enormous price asked
+for it, and a jury was appointed, but a price of two or three
+times more than was paid at that time for the land has been paid
+since for land.&nbsp; If anyone had it to sell now at the same
+price he would be very happy.</p>
+<p>Between the Gaol and the Workhouse there is a nice
+quiet-looking residence (Mr. Noble&rsquo;s).&nbsp; It was, till
+recently, devoted to the supply of milk, but it was built as a
+public house, put up by a brewery in order to supply
+accommodation for people who resorted to the Sessions House at
+the weekly meetings of the Magistrates, and at the Quarter
+Sessions.&nbsp; There was a temperance wit of the day who said,
+&ldquo;No, it is put there to show the close and intimate
+connection between the gin shop, the gaol, and the
+workhouse.&rdquo;&nbsp; We will go back to the town, the whole of
+that known as Newtown, long before the railways, between 1815 and
+1833, had been erected, so that it was, strictly and literally,
+&ldquo;Newtown.&rdquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page31"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 31</span>We then
+pass Squire&rsquo;s Brewery at the entrance to Lincoln Road,
+where the Liberal Club and Masonic Hall now stand, and we go to
+Boroughbury; all beyond the malting formed part of Squire&rsquo;s
+Brewery, going past what is known as the &ldquo;Square
+Pond.&rdquo;&nbsp; The houses there, including a large part of
+the Catholic Church and other buildings, are actually built upon
+that which was, in 1833 (and many years afterwards), covered with
+water.&nbsp; I was intimate with Mr. Buckle, who succeeded Mr.
+Squire in that brewery, and I was permitted to fish in the pond
+as often as I pleased.&nbsp; I have stood upon that spot which is
+now a public road and have caught pike and eels, and used to have
+very capital sport there.&nbsp; In the winter time it was a
+favourite resort, not thrown open to the public altogether, but
+still, with great liberality, it was allowed to be used for
+skating.&nbsp; I was very unlucky one day.&nbsp; It was just
+after a gentleman had bought the house, afterwards Mrs.
+Willoughby&rsquo;s (now shops erected by Mr. W. D. Nichols), and
+the grounds about it, was walking in his grounds, when he saw me
+pull out a large pike, and he was so enchanted with it, he
+thought it would be a great benefit to his property, and to my
+disgust, but the pleasure of Mr. Buckle, he bought the pond and
+merged it into his private grounds.&nbsp; I never caught any pike
+there again!</p>
+<p>Passing the outskirts of the town, we pass the great Tithe
+Barn, Boroughbury, an interesting and attractive specimen of
+antiquity and a good specimen of that kind of barn.&nbsp; You go
+up that junction of Lincoln Road to Dogsthorpe, and there past
+the last house until you come to two or three cottages, then
+belonging to a retired tailor, named Mitchell, and people had
+been profane enough to christen those cottages &ldquo;Cabbage
+Row.&rdquo;&nbsp; What connection there is between a tailor and
+cabbage, I don&rsquo;t know.</p>
+<p>Crossing the fields now laid out by the great roads of the
+Land Company, and which at that time were the most secluded
+fields around Peterborough, and going down Crawthorne Lane you
+came to a junction&mdash;a <a name="page32"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 32</span>little lane at the back of
+Boroughbury, now a wide street behind St. Mark&rsquo;s Villas,
+which runs up to Park Road, and there four roads met, where there
+was a little tombstone which was known as the &ldquo;Girls&rsquo;
+Grave.&rdquo;&nbsp; A girl was buried there, with a stake through
+her body, without Christian burial.&nbsp; The place was very well
+known, and for long remained in the midst of a potato garden
+belonging to one of the cottages there.</p>
+<p>You go as the crow flies to a place called Frog Hall, in front
+of St. Mary&rsquo;s Vicarage, one of the cottages remained till
+1904, and the place had a very unsavoury reputation.&nbsp; It was
+inhabited by squatters, gipsies, and travellers, and was one of
+the least desirable parts in that neighbourhood.&nbsp; Then came
+a row of cottages known as Burton&rsquo;s Row, where Peterborough
+attempted to travel past its boundaries and get into the
+country.</p>
+<p>Going back, we come to the Cemetery, but at that time all were
+grass fields let out as accommodation ground, and quite
+secluded.&nbsp; A little further on were the Gas Works.&nbsp; Now
+they <span class="GutSmall">ARE</span> Gas Works.&nbsp; When I
+came they were, as compared with the present, in about the same
+proportion as a small kettle to a large steam engine
+boiler.&nbsp; A gentleman named Malam&mdash;a Hull man&mdash;used
+to supply all the little towns in the country, and used to
+contract with the inhabitants to supply gas for them.&nbsp; There
+was no Act of Parliament, or anything of that sort, but
+permission from the Local Authorities to break up the streets and
+roads was all that was required, and he chanced it.&nbsp; I think
+Mr. Sawyer used to give as much time as he could spare from his
+own business, until he became, as the town increased, by
+purchase, the owner of the works, and he then gave his whole time
+and attention to them, and a very nice property it developed into
+by the time the present company took it off Mr. Sawyer&rsquo;s
+hands.</p>
+<p>That is the history of gas in Peterborough.&nbsp; This brings
+us back to the Long Causeway and the Market Place.&nbsp; Not the
+market now, as I recollect it!&nbsp; Up to the year 1848 the
+farmers attending the market used to <a name="page33"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 33</span>cool their heels in the open air in
+front of the Town Hall, hot or cold, wet or dry, rain or snow,
+blowing or still, there they stood, till the Theatre, now the
+Corn Exchange (since largely added to), became vacant, and it
+occurred to some agricultural gentleman that they could be much
+more comfortable in every way if they could form a company, and
+they did so, and I think no one will doubt that is an
+improvement.&nbsp; On the Long Causeway, the Cattle Market was
+the principal institution of the place, and I will tell you
+why.&nbsp; On Saturdays that place was wholly given up to
+them.&nbsp; There they were; nobody paid anything; anybody who
+had cows or horses to sell brought them there.&nbsp; They became
+the proprietors of the street for that day.</p>
+<p>Our widest and best street was spoilt; because if there is one
+thing more certain than another it is that the female mind most
+intensely abhors anything approaching contact with horned
+animals.&nbsp; Somehow or other, it seems to disturb that
+equanimity which appears to be utterly indispensable to a lady
+when she is going what she calls &ldquo;shopping,&rdquo; and it
+would take away all her ideas to think she was going to meet a
+restless-looking cow or a doubtful looking ox.&nbsp; It takes
+away all notion of colour, shape, and measure, or whether the
+thing will wash or not.&nbsp; The consequence was, the Long
+Causeway was practically abandoned on market days, and it was not
+much more used on other days for shopping purposes, because in
+anything like changeable or damp weather the atmosphere of the
+street was what I have heard ladies describe (not meaning to be
+complimentary) as &ldquo;smelly.&rdquo;&nbsp; Therefore,
+naturally, there was great rejoicing among the inhabitants
+generally when that street was restored to a cleanly wholesome
+state by the construction of the Cattle Market.</p>
+<p>The Wednesday Cattle Market had a very peculiar growth.&nbsp;
+It was set up without the smallest authority about 1845 or 1846
+by an old gentleman named Dean, who was a retired farmer, and an
+enterprising auctioneer named Dowse, who kept the
+&ldquo;Greyhound.&rdquo;&nbsp; They suggested that fat stock
+should be brought, and it came more and <a
+name="page34"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 34</span>more, until
+it grew into that excellent stock market, which became one of the
+best in the Kingdom.&nbsp; There was no foundation for it but
+that of custom.&nbsp; When the new market was proposed, the
+farmers invited the then authorities, the Improvement
+Commissioners, to construct it for them, but they made their bow
+and said, &ldquo;If you want a market, make it for
+yourselves.&rdquo;&nbsp; It was made by a limited company, and it
+has since fallen into the hands of the authorities, and Broadway
+constructed through it.</p>
+<p>We have another market which has grown up, and that is the
+present Wednesday Market on the Market Place, which I think is
+one of the greatest curiosities that ever comes under one&rsquo;s
+notice.&nbsp; It does no harm to anyone.&nbsp; I went there
+recently, and I saw an extraordinary medley of things exposed for
+sale.&nbsp; I wondered at first if they were to be given
+away!&nbsp; I could understand anybody wishing to sell them, but
+wondered who could wish to buy them.&nbsp; It is one of the
+things no one can understand.&nbsp; But it affords the means of
+getting rid of most undesirable things, call them furniture, or
+anything else!&nbsp; It puts me in mind of a shop in the Market
+Place at Great Yarmouth, where they say you may buy
+anything.&nbsp; A visitor, a clergyman, was told he could get
+anything he wanted.&nbsp; He said, &ldquo;I want a
+pulpit.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Well,&rdquo; his friend said,
+&ldquo;go in and try.&rdquo;&nbsp; He went in and said, &ldquo;Do
+you happen to have a pulpit?&rdquo; and they said, &ldquo;Well,
+we do happen to have a pulpit.&rdquo;&nbsp; And I think I have
+seen everything in our Wednesday&rsquo;s Market except
+that.&nbsp; I have not seen anything so useful as a pulpit!</p>
+<p>I have spoken of our accommodation for the living.&nbsp; What
+do we do for the dead?&nbsp; We have the Cemetery, which has been
+considerably enlarged since it was first formed in 1852 or 1853,
+and the rapid increase of the Cemetery suggests the difficulty of
+the disposal of the dead in a creditable and satisfactory manner
+with our increasing population.&nbsp; The old burial ground was
+opened in the year 1802, and it is one of the peculiarities of
+this peculiar place, and of the old jurisdictions here, that the
+old Parish Church appears to have had in ancient <a
+name="page35"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 35</span>times no
+burial ground belonging to it, a thing that very seldom happens,
+for the burial ground of the Parish of St. John the Baptist was
+outside the Minster, which is an extra parochial district.&nbsp;
+This remained up to 1802, when the burial ground in Cowgate was
+formed.&nbsp; If you go into it sometime (I am very fond of
+looking at the tombstones), you will find the oddest
+peculiarities of language and literature as inscriptions on the
+tombstones, but I cannot say I have ever found much to
+admire.&nbsp; You will find a collection of legends which are
+common all over the country, commencing with</p>
+<blockquote><p>Affliction sore, long time he bore,<br />
+Physicians WAS in vain.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Next to it:</p>
+<blockquote><p>Pale consumption gave the silent <span
+class="GutSmall">BELOW</span>, etc.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>In our graveyard in Cowgate there is an epitaph upon old Mrs.
+Thomas, by which you are informed, that</p>
+<blockquote><p>Making carpets and beds she did pursue<br />
+With care and industry is very true,<br />
+The established religion she did profess<br />
+In hopes, through Christ, of Heaven to possess.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Such rubbish as that, under the veto of the present Cemetery
+Commissioners, will, I hope, soon disappear.&nbsp; But there is
+one in the Cathedral graveyard (the existence of which is not
+generally known), on the tombstone memorial of an old family of
+this place, and I trust it will not be allowed to
+disappear.&nbsp; It is very superior to what they generally
+are.&nbsp; It is on the right just as you go through the Arch by
+the Deanery, and is to the memory of one of the Richardson
+family:</p>
+<blockquote><p>Stranger pass by nor idly waste your time<br />
+In bad biography or bitter rhyme;<br />
+For what I am, this cumbrous clay ensures,<br />
+And what I was, is no affair of yours.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The old gentleman, as you see, has carried his cynical humour
+to the grave with him.&nbsp; It was quoted in an article in
+&ldquo;Blackwood&rsquo;s Magazine&rdquo; on &ldquo;Monumental
+Inscriptions&rdquo; a few years since.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page36"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 36</span>
+<a href="images/p36b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Peterborough Market Place A.D. 1795. N. Fielding of Stamford.
+Specially drawn from a painting in Peterborough Museum"
+title=
+"Peterborough Market Place A.D. 1795. N. Fielding of Stamford.
+Specially drawn from a painting in Peterborough Museum"
+src="images/p36s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2><a name="page37"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 37</span>PART
+THE THIRD.</h2>
+<p class="gutsumm"><span
+class="smcap">Newspapers</span>.&mdash;<span
+class="smcap">Distemper</span>.&mdash;<span
+class="smcap">Guildhall</span>.&mdash;<span
+class="smcap">Hangings</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Daring
+Burglaries</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">A Lock-up
+Story</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">An
+Alibi</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">The Mud
+Case</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">When the Railways First
+Came</span>.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Retrospective</span>.</p>
+<p><span class="smcap">In</span> my former Notes I alluded to the
+Post Office.&nbsp; Well, the first Post Office I recollect was a
+little room about 10ft. square&mdash;I think it has been altered
+since&mdash;in one of those houses at the back of the
+&ldquo;White Lion&rdquo; gates.&nbsp; An old gentleman lived
+there who was Postmaster, and I think he was assisted, being
+rather infirm, by his daughter, and I have been told it was the
+amusement of a little grandchild or a little boy accustomed to
+visit him, that by way of a treat he was allowed to catch letters
+in his pinafore, and as a grand treat he was allowed to stamp
+them.&nbsp; At that time the Post Office establishment consisted
+of the Postmaster, the lady who assisted him, and the letter
+carrier, who, as some of you recollect, was Mrs. Waterfield, a
+tidy woman, who had a little basket in which she carried
+letters.&nbsp; By degrees the establishment got on.&nbsp; You
+will bear in mind that at that time we were not troubled with
+Post Office Orders.&nbsp; There was no way of conveying 5s. or
+6s. in stamps, or by order, from one part of the country to
+another.&nbsp; The present Post Office consists of palatial
+buildings, since their enlargement in 1904, and great
+departmental accommodation, the smallest room of which is larger
+than that old Post Office altogether.&nbsp; It would not do now
+to catch letters in a pinafore, as their number is many millions
+a month.&nbsp; There are telegraph messages, Post Office Orders,
+and Savings Bank business.&nbsp; The Postmaster and old woman
+have grown into a Postmaster at &pound;500 a year, <a
+name="page38"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 38</span>Chief Clerk,
+a very important personage, the Assistant Superintendent (Postal
+Department), the Assistant Superintendent (Telegraph Department),
+7 controllers, and a staff numbering altogether nearly 350, with
+66 sub-Post Offices&mdash;a pretty good number.&nbsp; A great
+deal of the business is forwarding mails passing through
+Peterborough, as a convenient centre for such purposes.</p>
+<p>Then, as to newspapers, we used to have once a week the
+&ldquo;Stamford Mercury,&rdquo; a very good paper, full of
+advertisements and local news, but the &ldquo;Stamford
+Mercury&rdquo; was always conducted on this principle:
+&ldquo;Opinion is quite free in this country, and we are going to
+dictate to nobody,&rdquo; so you never have editorial articles in
+the &ldquo;Stamford Mercury.&rdquo;&nbsp; They used sometimes to
+select leaders and bits of intelligence from other papers,
+generally of one way of thinking.&nbsp; Then we used to have the
+London papers.&nbsp; They cost 7d. each.&nbsp; London papers used
+to come down the day after publication, after they had gone the
+round of the club houses, the hotels, and the London eating
+houses.&nbsp; Those that had been in the eating houses used
+sometimes to come in rather a greasy form.&nbsp; Now we can have
+the &ldquo;Times&rdquo; on our breakfast table, or earlier if
+wished.&nbsp; After a time some gentlemen thought we were very
+benighted in Peterborough, and two of them, very much in advance
+of their age, started what we should now call a Society paper of
+a very pronounced type called the &ldquo;Peterborough
+Argus.&rdquo;&nbsp; The first one heard of it was, after one or
+two publications, that a solicitor had inflicted upon the
+responsible Editor a sound thrashing for a libel.&nbsp; The case
+went to the Northampton Assizes, and although the verdict was not
+quite &ldquo;served him right,&rdquo; the publisher got damages
+of very small amount.&nbsp; It was one of the most scurrilous
+papers in its way, and at length it became intolerable.</p>
+<p>We now have in Peterborough four newspapers, besides a most
+ample supply of daily newspapers.&nbsp; It has been very
+interesting to witness the growth of Peterborough newspapers,
+particularly that of the <span class="smcap">Advertiser</span>
+(the first in the field&mdash;in 1854) from its small two pages
+to the very satisfactory form in <a name="page39"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 39</span>which it now appears, with its
+mid-weekly auxiliary, the <span
+class="smcap">Citizen</span>.&nbsp; There was also a difficulty
+as to supply of books.&nbsp; There was a book club, the Church
+Porch Club, existing fifty years ago, and one or two others, but
+somehow or other literature did not thrive very much in
+Peterborough.&nbsp; One gentleman retired from the book club, and
+when asked why he gave up he said &ldquo;The fact is I cannot eat
+suppers any longer.&rdquo;&nbsp; It does not strike me as a good
+reason to give up reading, because one would have thought he
+could have read better without his supper.&nbsp; However, they
+were not then so badly off for newspapers as they were 150 years
+ago.</p>
+<p>I mentioned just now the &ldquo;Stamford Mercury.&rdquo;&nbsp;
+I have before me a copy of the &ldquo;Stamford Mercury&rdquo; a
+friend has kindly lent me, that I might extract a little valuable
+comparison.&nbsp; What should we think if our intellectual food
+came from sources such as that we got, for instance, in the year
+1730, as seen in the &ldquo;Stamford Mercury.&rdquo;&nbsp; It
+then had a most aspiring title, as you will see:&mdash;&ldquo;The
+<span class="smcap">Stamford Mercury</span>, being Historical and
+Political Observations on the Transactions of Europe, Together
+with Remarks on Trade.&rdquo;&nbsp; Here is this little
+sheet&mdash;a good-sized sheet of letter paper, one-eighth taken
+up by the title and an illustrated figure of
+&ldquo;Mercury.&rdquo;&nbsp; Another eighth is literally taken up
+by &ldquo;Bills of Mortality of London for the week or
+month,&rdquo; and from it I wonder what some of the diseases of
+that day were.&nbsp; One person died of
+&ldquo;Headmouldshot,&rdquo; one of &ldquo;Horse Shoehead,&rdquo;
+and amongst other things there is very large mortality attributed
+to &ldquo;teeth.&rdquo;&nbsp; Another eighth of that paper is
+taken up with price lists, giving the rate of exchange between
+London and Madrid, also between London and Cadiz, etc.&nbsp; Then
+prices of goods at &ldquo;Bear Key.&rdquo;&nbsp; Another eighth
+is given up to observations upon the affairs of Europe:
+&ldquo;Our Government has received advice from Florence that
+Princess Dowager Palatine has renounced all her pretentions to
+the succession in favour of Don Carlos,&rdquo; and such pieces as
+that, and then the other half is taken up with
+advertisements.&nbsp; It is a curious thing that in one <a
+name="page40"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 40</span>advertisement
+we are told &ldquo;To Let, the Three Tuns, an old accustomed inn
+on the Market Place at Peterborough, Northamptonshire,&rdquo;
+that being the site where the present Stamford and Spalding Bank
+now stands.&nbsp; That was in 1730.</p>
+<p>Twenty years later, in 1755, there is an Ipswich paper, and to
+show how history repeats itself, for the consolation of our
+farming friends, we are told that amongst other Acts just passed
+was one to continue several laws relating to the distemper then
+raging among the horned cattle in the Kingdom.&nbsp; There is
+nothing new under the sun.&nbsp; We have had it before, and no
+doubt they said in that time legislation very much interfered
+with the markets.&nbsp; Another curious thing in the paper is
+this: &ldquo;The ship the Royal George was put out of the Dock to
+go to Spithead.&rdquo;&nbsp; Was this the Royal George that
+&ldquo;went down with twice 400 men&rdquo;?&nbsp; Public news was
+important just then.&nbsp; There are details as to watching the
+French Fleet.&nbsp; Those were very anxious times, but the
+peculiarity of those papers is that they gave you so little of
+what may be called local news.&nbsp; Our own local papers give
+you ample City News and a Complete Chronicle of the affairs of
+villages; but you may look through those papers and find nothing
+approaching local news excepting this:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;By a letter from Thirsk in Yorkshire we
+learn that very lately a terrible shock of earthquake was felt,
+inasmuch that several large rocks were removed to considerable
+distances; several large grown elms were swallowed up by the
+earth so that no part of them remained to be seen but the
+uppermost branches.&nbsp; A man driving a cart near the place,
+the horses were so much frightened by the shock that they broke
+loose from the carriage and ran away.&nbsp; The horses seem to
+have behaved very sensibly.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Then there is an advertisement which strikes one as rather
+peculiar, because I think if some of the ladies now-a-days
+happened of this misfortune you would hardly put it in the
+paper:&mdash;</p>
+<blockquote><p>&ldquo;Lost out of Tom Shave&rsquo;s London
+caravan between London and Ipswich (but supposed to be dropped
+between here and Colchester) a small black trunk, containing a
+pink silk gown, with <a name="page41"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 41</span>a pink sarsenet lining, a blue silk
+quilted petticoat, a pink silver lined child&rsquo;s hat, a white
+chip hat with pink ribbons, a pink silk skirt, two pair of white
+cotton stockings, two shifts, two lawn handkerchiefs and
+owner&rsquo;s other things, with a hoop petticoat tied on the
+outside.&rdquo;</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Now, we have lived in the days of the crinoline, but I never
+saw one tied on the outside!</p>
+<p>To return to the City of Peterborough, we come to the Town
+Hall.&nbsp; When I first knew it, it was used as a Sessions
+House, but it did not belong to the magistrates, the feoffees
+being the owners.&nbsp; It was also used as a County Court until
+the present new building was erected.&nbsp; Speaking of the
+County Courts, for many years there was no summary jurisdiction
+for settling small debts and quarrels, and one really wonders how
+the world got on, but one feels certain there must have been a
+vast deal of injustice for the want of that which really,
+comparatively speaking, now brings justice home to
+everybody&rsquo;s own door.&nbsp; Just think in 1810 how
+difficult it was to get.</p>
+<p>The Magistrates of the Liberty of Peterborough had a general
+commission of gaol delivery.&nbsp; There are people living in
+Peterborough who recollect a man being hanged on Butcher&rsquo;s
+Piece, against the North Bank, under sentence by the local
+magistrates, and I should imagine there was as much heard of it
+as there is news given in this scrap of print.&nbsp; In 1820 an
+Act of Parliament was passed enabling Magistrates at local
+jurisdictions to commit persons charged with capital offences for
+trial at the Assizes.&nbsp; In the Peterborough Court no counsel
+used to appear, and just imagine what a sensation would be
+excited if we were now told by our Court of Quarter Sessions that
+by authority of their Charter they were going to hang a
+man.&nbsp; I recollect when I was a boy at school, just before I
+came to Peterborough, I have been into the Old Bailey, and I have
+seen put into the dock at the close of the Sessions 15 or 16 men
+and women, all of whom were sentenced to be executed.&nbsp; Sheep
+stealing, horse stealing, cow stealing, forgery, robbing a
+dwelling house to a certain amount <a name="page42"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 42</span>were all at that time capital
+offences, and you would see in the London newspapers that the
+Recorder of the City had been down to Windsor to make his report
+to the King, and that there were so many cases of death
+sentences, all of which his Majesty was graciously pleased to
+respite, except some who were to be executed as a deterrent
+example.</p>
+<p>There is a novel of Theodore Hook&rsquo;s which gives a most
+striking account, partly humorous, and partly tragic, of the
+proceedings and sentences at the Old Bailey in those days.&nbsp;
+One recollects in the course of his professional experience many
+cases of interest.&nbsp; Many striking cases of daring burglaries
+have been dealt with in Peterborough.&nbsp; At Glinton a house
+was broken into by five or six people, most convincing evidence
+was given of their violence and intimidation, and the coolness of
+the witnesses on the trial of the prisoners.&nbsp; The witnesses,
+as they very frequently are, were ordered out of Court, and as
+they were called they pointed out and identified particular
+prisoners.&nbsp; After this had been done two or three times, the
+gentlemen in the dock changed their positions, thinking that
+probably the witnesses had been tutoring one another, and that
+they would then defeat them; but it did not answer, and it being
+pointed out to the jury, it sealed their conviction, convincing
+them that the witnesses were accurate, and not tutored.&nbsp; The
+same thing was mentioned in the papers a few days ago as having
+occurred when the prisoners were in the dock in Dublin for the
+Ph&oelig;nix Park murders.&nbsp; Another case occurred where a
+gang who had been the terror of the district, all strangers,
+broke into a house, the Thirty Acre Farm, at Fengate, and
+striking coolness and courage was shown by a girl who was pulled
+out of her bed and threatened with death to compel her to open
+her box and produce her money.&nbsp; She afterwards identified
+her assailants, some by their voices even.&nbsp; Then there was
+the robbery at Orton Stanch.&nbsp; The money taken by the woman
+there for tolls was brought to Peterborough weekly, and one night
+the place was broken into and the cash box stolen.</p>
+<p><a name="page43"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 43</span>There
+was a man called Jack Hall who had settled in this part of the
+country, and was connected with others of Yaxley, who committed
+several robberies in the district.&nbsp; Hall turned informer; he
+was arrested for something else, and gave information, and
+Stretton and a man named Humberston were taken separately.&nbsp;
+They were first allowed to see, but not speak to, each other, and
+were put into separate cells.&nbsp; Mr. Preston, who used to keep
+the lock-up at Fletton, locked the door of the passage dividing
+the cells, but was careful to leave a policeman in the passage,
+where he could hear any conversation between the prisoners.&nbsp;
+Towards morning he heard one signal, the other &ldquo;Hist! Jack,
+what are you in for?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;The Stanch,&rdquo; was
+the reply.&nbsp; The other said, &ldquo;Jack Hall&rsquo;s split
+upon us.&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Never mind&rdquo; was the answer,
+&ldquo;we must deny it altogether.&rdquo;&nbsp; This conversation
+was proved at the trial at the assizes, and was relied upon to
+confirm the evidence.&nbsp; The prisoners&rsquo; counsel
+complained of the way these men had been trapped, but Lord
+Justice Campbell, who tried them, pointed out that they were not
+asked to say what they did, and they were convicted and sentenced
+to transportation for life.</p>
+<p>One other case, the robbery at the Vicarage.&nbsp; The thief
+was met coming away.&nbsp; He was described as a nice,
+gentlemanly looking man.&nbsp; A young policeman met him in the
+street, and that thief had the impudence to walk and talk to
+him.&nbsp; They walked up to the G.N. Station together, and the
+policeman thinking no harm, the burglar got clear away, but he
+was apprehended afterwards with others.&nbsp; There was a defence
+of an alibi set up for one, and men were brought from Northampton
+to declare that he was engaged at a tea garden there at the
+time.&nbsp; The jury did not believe them.&nbsp; The same defence
+is one of the most common.&nbsp; If proved, it is, of course,
+most conclusive, but it is very easy to set up this defence and
+get it sworn to.&nbsp; It was once used by a man charged with
+stealing a horse, who was found riding away upon its back.&nbsp;
+It occurs in Pickwick, when Mr. Weller says: &ldquo;Samivel, why
+wasn&rsquo;t there an alibi?&rdquo;</p>
+<p><a name="page44"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 44</span>There
+have not been many civil cases of any great interest, but a few
+breaches of promise, and one rather peculiar case, known as the
+Mud case, tried on the Midland Circuit.&nbsp; It was a question
+of right of navigation through what is now Mr. Roberts&rsquo;
+granary against the river, and it was stated that barge after
+barge had been brought up there.&nbsp; It was shown that it was
+physically impossible for a boat to go up there, as there was an
+obstruction rendering it impossible for any boat to pass through
+it.&nbsp; That trial lasted for years.&nbsp; I was at Northampton
+during one of the trials.&nbsp; There was another case between
+two tradesmen, one of whom had been thrown amongst some
+implements, and in the first trial the verdict was for the
+defendant; in the next the plaintiff got one shilling
+damages.</p>
+<p>I have previously given particulars about the rejoicings we
+had when the railways came here.&nbsp; Just let me add one or two
+words to show it was not all gain when the railways came.&nbsp;
+You used, if you wanted to go to London, to get up early, and, by
+the Eastern Counties express, start at 6 o&rsquo;clock, and be
+four or five hours going.&nbsp; In going there and coming back
+you had done a hard day&rsquo;s work.&nbsp; I used to find it
+necessary to be called in good time, and recollect asking John
+Frisby, who used to run after the mail, to call me.&nbsp; Instead
+of doing so a little before six, he called me at three.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;John,&rdquo; I said, &ldquo;do you know the
+time?&rdquo;&nbsp; &ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; he said, &ldquo;I thought I
+had better be in good time.&rdquo;&nbsp; When the railways were
+just made, there was very little difference in the time taken to
+go to London by the G.N.R. or G.E.R.&nbsp; A good fight took
+place between the two companies.&nbsp; You could run by
+Northampton for 5s., instead of 11s. or 12s., by the Great
+Northern, and I was once beguiled with a lady in going the cheap
+route.&nbsp; We started at seven and arrived in London at two in
+the afternoon.&nbsp; When we got there we were so tired we could
+not go out that day at all.&nbsp; We had return tickets, but gave
+them up and came back by the G.N.&nbsp; The Great Northern put a
+stop to it by running the direct journey there and back for
+5s.&nbsp; I <a name="page45"></a><span class="pagenum">p.
+45</span>tried that, and, coming home, was pulled in by the
+window, the train being overcrowded, and sat not upon the seat,
+but the arms between, and experienced for several hours something
+like you have seen described after a man has been tarred and
+feathered, in riding a rail, or the sensation of the monk who
+went into the barber&rsquo;s shop, and instead of paying the
+usual twopence, wanted to be shaved for the love of God.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Certainly,&rdquo; said the barber; and he shaved the monk
+with cold water, a blunt razor, and a very short allowance of
+soap.&nbsp; At the conclusion of which the monk said,
+&ldquo;Heaven defend me from ever being shaved again for the love
+of God.&rdquo;&nbsp; He came to the conclusion, as I did, that it
+was better to have things at the ordinary price and have them in
+the regular way.</p>
+<p>Washington Irving tells the story of how one of the early
+settlers in the State of New York, not a very industrious person,
+walked out on the Catskill Mountains on a shooting expedition,
+and met with a party who were playing at skittles.&nbsp; They
+invited him to have some whisky and water, which he accepted, and
+immediately fell asleep, and at the close of half a century
+awoke.&nbsp; His faculties were in precisely the same condition
+as when he fell asleep, but the world had progressed around
+him.&nbsp; He went home and found those whom he had left young
+were grown old, and many of his neighbours had vanished from the
+scene.&nbsp; He had gone asleep under the Monarchy and awoke
+under the American Republic.&nbsp; That is the story, the
+humorous side of which is admirably painted by Washington
+Irving.&nbsp; It seems to me that in one point of view, at least
+when we exercise that wonderful faculty of memory that power of
+abstracting ourselves from what has passed and is passing before
+us, and carry ourselves back to the days of our youth, and for a
+few moments ignore all that has since passed around us that one
+is somewhat in the condition of Washington Irving&rsquo;s hero of
+the tale in America!&nbsp; The history of a small city involves
+the history and the progress of the nation.&nbsp; The population
+of the country has increased relatively as the population of our
+own City has increased.&nbsp; The same causes which have led <a
+name="page46"></a><span class="pagenum">p. 46</span>to our
+improvement have led to the improvement and the advancement in
+wealth, honour, and happiness of the increased population which
+these circumstances have brought into being.&nbsp; Nothing, I
+think, could be more distressing than to have our progress
+blotted out.&nbsp; That is not the way in which a wise and
+merciful Providence deals with his creatures.&nbsp; Our troubles,
+our afflictions, the memory of those we have lost, become
+pleasant memories.&nbsp; We do not fail to notice the beauty of
+the thought that those who are taken from us are not lost, but
+only gone before.&nbsp; And so it is in the life of a
+nation.&nbsp; If one were depicting the life of the nation for
+the last 50 year&rsquo;s one would speak of the happiness that
+the great bulk of the population enjoyed.</p>
+<p>I have lived through the Chartist Riots, the Irish Famine, and
+the Cotton Famine, which tried the endurance of our artisans in
+the manufacturing districts, and caused in the minds of statesmen
+and of every thinking man the great apprehensions as to its
+bearing upon the industry and wealth and happiness of the
+country.&nbsp; I have lived through periods of war&mdash;the
+Crimean War, when the thoughts of everyone were directed to our
+Army in distress barely holding its own through that dreadful
+winter&mdash;and the Indian Mutiny.&nbsp; All these incidents in
+the life of a nation answer to the troubles and afflictions in
+the life of the individual.&nbsp; We have survived the troubles
+which faced us, and how can I do more than say that thoughts such
+as these remind us of our duties as Citizens, as individuals, as
+members of the great community, showing us how much we have to be
+thankful for and how much we are dependent on circumstances.</p>
+
+<div class="gapspace">&nbsp;</div>
+<p style="text-align: center">FINIS.</p>
+<p style="text-align: center"><a name="page47"></a><span
+class="pagenum">p. 47</span>
+<a href="images/p47b.jpg">
+<img alt=
+"Map of Whittlesey Mere, from &ldquo;Fenland Notes &amp;
+Queries.&rdquo;"
+title=
+"Map of Whittlesey Mere, from &ldquo;Fenland Notes &amp;
+Queries.&rdquo;"
+src="images/p47s.jpg" />
+</a></p>
+<h2>FOOTNOTES</h2>
+<p><a name="footnote5"></a><a href="#citation5"
+class="footnote">[5]</a>&nbsp; The pagination in the book cannot
+be followed for the illustrations in some cases as they appear on
+their own pages in the middle of random paragraphs.&nbsp; In such
+cases the illustrations have been moved onto the following page,
+and the pages numbers in the list of illustrations have been
+changed accordingly.&nbsp; The filenames for the illustrations
+are their original page numbers.&mdash;DP.</p>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES ON OLD PETERBOROUGH***</p>
+<pre>
+
+
+***** This file should be named 45059-h.htm or 45059-h.zip******
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