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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 18:35:58 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 18:35:58 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/44122-0.txt b/44122-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..289b7b2 --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2698 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44122 *** + +SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA + + +[Illustration: HENRY A. NELSON MEMORIAL + +_Tripoli Boys' School_] + + + + +SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA + +GLIMPSES OF A MISSIONARY'S EXPERIENCES + +BY +W. S. NELSON, D.D., +AUTHOR OF "HABEEB THE BELOVED" + +[Illustration: Logo] + +PHILADELPHIA +THE WESTMINSTER PRESS +1914 + + +COPYRIGHT, 1914 + +BY F. M. BRASELMANN + + + + +DEDICATION + +JULY 17, 1888. CINCINNATI, OHIO. + + _This book is affectionately inscribed to her who has been the + companion of my life for twenty-five years; my helper in all my + work; my cheer and comfort in all circumstances; the maker of my + home; the source of all that is silvery in the chimes that ring + to-day._ + + HOMS, SYRIA, JULY 17, 1913. + + + + +PREFACE + + +When a tourist is seated on the deck of a steamer, waiting to leave the +country in which he has enjoyed an outing, his eyes do not seek the +low-lying shore of the sea, for the memories he would retain hereafter. +He lifts his eyes to the overhanging mountains. Nor is it the whole +massive range that holds his vision. He looks instinctively to the +scattered, lofty summits which stand aloof as it were from the monotony +of the lower range. Especially as the sun sinks below the western +horizon do his eyes dwell lovingly on those highest peaks which are +colored with the light of the setting sun. + +My purpose in sending out this collection of sketches is somewhat the +same. I have not attempted a continuous narrative, with all the monotony +of repeated acts, but have sought to make vivid to the reader some of +the more conspicuous features of missionary life, in the hope of +deepening sympathy with the workers and increasing zeal in the work. +That is my excuse for the free use of the personal pronoun, not to make +prominent the person, but to emphasize the reality. May the volume be +enjoyed by our fellow workers in America, and blessed by Him whom we all +serve. + + + + +CONTENTS + +CHAPTER PAGE + I. ARRIVAL IN SYRIA 3 + + II. LANGUAGE STUDY 14 + + III. TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION 19 + + IV. EVANGELISTIC TRIPS 34 + + V. ALEPPO 53 + + VI. NEW STATIONS AND BUILDINGS 65 + + VII. CAMPING LIFE 75 + +VIII. PERSECUTION 87 + + IX. EMIGRATION 94 + + X. SYRIAN ENTERPRISES 104 + + XI. INTERRUPTIONS 111 + + XII. OUR SUPPORTERS 127 + +XIII. PERSONAL FRIENDS 136 + + XIV. TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL 150 + + XV. MOVING 164 + + XVI. THE MUEZZIN OR THE BELL 169 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + PAGE +Henry A. Nelson Memorial--_Tripoli Boys' School_ _Frontispiece_ + +Latakia Boys' School _Facing Page_ 34 + +Tartoose--_Crusaders' Church_ 34 + +Aleppo Minaret 53 + +Hadeth Summer Home 75 + +Abu Maroon, the Hadeth Carpenter 75 + +Homs--_Boys' School_ 104 + +Tripoli Boys' School--_First Home_ 150 + +Tripoli Boys' School--_Second Home_ 150 + +Homs 164 + +Heathen Temple and Mount Hermon 164 + +Hamidiyeh Mosque--_Tripoli_ 169 + +Old City Gate--_Tripoli_ 169 + + + + +SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA + + + + +CHAPTER I + +ARRIVAL IN SYRIA + + +Every individual makes a new personal discovery, as with the passage of +years, he realizes the difference between the long look forward over a +given period, and the look backward over the same period, when it is +completed. To the new arrival on the field the veteran of twenty-five +years' experience appears to have spent a very long time in the service; +but as he looks back over his own life, at the end of a similar period, +he wonders that he ever entertained such an opinion. Looking back to the +year 1888, the events of that time do not seem at all remote, and it is +hard to realize that to anyone that year can appear a very long way in +the past. + +On the last day of October, in the early morning, a steamer of the +Austrian-Lloyd Line cast anchor in front of Beirut. That was long before +the building of the harbor, and all vessels tossed in the open +roadstead, at the mercy of wind and wave, only slightly sheltered by the +long headland of Ras Beirut, where the tall lighthouse rears its slender +shaft, and where the Syrian Protestant College stands, as a more +important symbol of light-giving. + +The anchor was scarcely dropped before the little boats from the shore +crowded about the ladders and the boatmen came swarming over the sides +of the vessel, to take possession of the passengers and carry them +ashore. It is always a perplexing but interesting scene to the newcomer. +The curious costumes of many colors give an appearance of gayety to the +crowd; the shouting of the guttural Arabic makes one think of Babel; the +wild gesticulating of the excited people suggests the possibility of a +riot; the seizing of baggage and pulling of passengers by eager boatmen +make one think that the day of personal liberty and private property is +passed. As a rule, however, it is all good-natured, and the noise is +more bantering than quarreling. In fact, one soon becomes accustomed to +the turmoil as an indication of lack of orderly proceeding in the +Orient. + +Among the first figures to appear on deck that October morning was one +quieter but no less eager than the Arab boatmen. He quickly made his way +to the room of the new missionaries, just arriving from America, +prepared to take them ashore, and even to escort them at once to his own +home in Sidon. It was a most welcome, homelike experience to the tired +travelers, and the cheery voice and cordial welcome of Mr. W. K. Eddy +will never be forgotten. + +There were many things in the journey, thus ended, that had made it +trying. The young couple had crossed the Atlantic entirely among +strangers and the ocean had not been kind to them. Seasickness is never +a happy experience, and when it becomes a continuous performance, in +connection with a wedding journey, it seems most inappropriate. Pleasant +visits with family friends and relatives in Scotland effaced the +memories of the Atlantic. Visiting new scenes and beautiful places in +Switzerland gave much pleasure by the way, but in an unfortunate day the +germs of malaria had been absorbed and southern Italy was reached with +fever and weakness that made sightseeing a burden. + +Who can forget his first glimpse of the real Orient, at Port Said? The +noise and the dirt; the squalor and the glaring sun; the rush of the +crowd and the utter lonesomeness of the stranger, make a contrast and +mixture that are not easily matched in life's ordinary experiences. Four +days were to pass before a steamer went to Beirut. It was not a pleasant +prospect for travelers homesick and weak from fever to have to tarry +for four days in a dismal hotel, with nothing attractive in the way of +companionship or occupation. Besides this, our trunks had not been sent +forward as promised, and we were obliged to depend upon the limited hand +baggage with which we had crossed the Continent. It is easy to imagine +the sensations with which the young bride looked forward to making her +first appearance among strangers, with a face pale from fever and an +outfit so unexpectedly limited. + +The hearty welcome of Mr. Eddy on the deck of that Austrian steamer in +Beirut harbor was a needed tonic, and his skill and experience readily +passed us through the intricacies of the customhouse and brought us to +the hospitable home of his father. Of the friends who conspired to make +those first days bright, many have been called away to the other shore, +though others are still our associates in the service of Syria. Dr. and +Mrs. W. W. Eddy, with whom we spent our first ten days in Syria, left +us many years ago. Dr. Samuel Jessup was always thoughtful, bringing +bright flowers from his garden to continue the impression of his bright +face and cheery words, when he called upon the strangers. He and Mrs. +Jessup, whose home was one of the brightest spots of those early years, +have also gone on before to their well-earned reward. Mr. March, coming +down from the mountains on his way to Tripoli, was especially ready in +his plans for the comfort of his new associates in Tripoli Station. But +it is not necessary to mention each one. The beauty of missionary life +is the unity of fellowship and the completeness with which every +newcomer is received into the intimacy and love of the circle, which is +only less close and intimate than that of the family itself. + +After ten days spent in Beirut in trying to get rid of the malaria and +in acquiring some knowledge of the Arabic alphabet, we went on to +Tripoli, our future home. It was a cold, windy Saturday afternoon. We +were taken out to the steamer in a small boat, which tossed on the +restless waves in a way which we supposed to be normal. The steamer was +small and crowded with a miscellaneous company, most of whom were not +happy, to say the least. Fortunately it is only a four hours' ride, for +the wind increased in violence as we proceeded, and when the anchor was +dropped at sundown off Tripoli, it seemed doubtful whether any boats +could come out to meet us. In due time, however, a boat pulled +alongside, and there was Mr. March, who had come out over that rough sea +to welcome us to our new home, though he did not think we would venture +to start from Beirut in such a storm. The steamer was rolling so badly +that the ladder could not be lowered at all, and we crept out on it as +it lay horizontally along the ship's side, and then, when the tip was +lowest, simply dropped into the arms of the boatmen below. Then began +the laborious pull for the shore. We were two hours reaching land, our +clothes soaked, our spirits at zero, but most happy to reach the warm, +cozy haven of the March home in the Mina of Tripoli. It was the +beginning of a most beautiful fellowship with Mr. and Mrs. March and +their children, whose sweet introduction of themselves won our hearts at +once and who, though now grown to maturity, still call us by the old, +affectionate titles of uncle and aunt. Thus, for the second time in our +short missionary experience, we were made to feel the comfort and peace +of being taken into the warmth and love of a Christian home, no longer +as strangers, but as brethren. + +We wished to take possession of our own home as soon as possible. Our +household goods were in the customhouse, and another first experience +was before us. Everything had to be examined and its purpose explained +to the satisfaction of the Turkish inspector. To him it seemed a wholly +unnecessary amount of furniture for one person, for of course he could +not recognize that the wife's existence made any difference. A box of +class photographs was examined in detail, and great surprise manifested +that one person should have so many friends. A small vase for flowers in +the shape of a kettle resting on five legs puzzled the examiner, until +he picked up the perforated piece of a soap dish, and decided that he +had found the appropriate adaptation of the two pieces. It did not seem +necessary to explain, so long as he was satisfied, and no harm was done. + +We had many things to learn besides the language. Our home belonged to a +man whose name was translated to us as Mr. Victory-of-God Brass. In an +arch under the parlor windows he had hung a donkey's skull and some +beads, to keep off the evil eye of jealousy from his fine house. It was +a pleasant house, well located near the city gate which had been known +in former days as Donkey Gate, only a few minutes' walk from the girls' +school and just at the end of the tram line connecting the city with +the harbor, two miles distant. In planning for our new home we had +indulged in the luxury of two pairs of simple lace curtains for our +parlor windows. When we entered the house, our amazement can hardly be +exaggerated at the discovery that the parlor had not two but eight +windows, each calling for curtains twelve feet long. Our lace curtains +were relegated to service elsewhere. Mr. Eddy had kindly arranged to +come up from Sidon to help us in this first settling of our new home, +and his help and companionship were invaluable. He went with me to the +shops to purchase such things as were needed, and the shopkeepers +recognized at once his fluent Arabic and his companion's ignorance of +the language. More than one shopkeeper called him aside and asked him to +bring the stranger to them for his purchases, promising him a handsome +commission for his services. + +The house was soon made habitable and just three weeks after our first +landing in Syria we slept under our own roof, with our own possessions +about us, and were ready to begin our own independent home life in the +land of our adoption. We had made our beginning, and a bright, happy +beginning it was, notwithstanding the difficulties and drawbacks +inevitable in such conditions. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +LANGUAGE STUDY + + +Whatever differences there may be in experiences in missionary life, all +missionaries are faced with a most troublesome experience in learning a +new language. It is more or less natural for everyone to magnify what +concerns himself. "Our children" are always a little better than our +neighbors'. "Our cook" makes better bread than anyone else. And +"mother's pies"--well, that calls for no argument. It is much the same +way among missionaries. It is probable that there are just about as many +"hardest languages" in the world as there are distinct mission fields. +But, then, there must be one that is really the hardest, and we in Syria +think we come pretty well up on the list, even though we do not claim +absolute preëminence. The Arabic, though rich and beautiful, is +certainly a difficult language, and I am sure the Syria Mission would +give a unanimous vote on the resolution that it is the toughest +linguistic proposition we have ever attacked. It was one of the terse +and suggestive remarks of Dr. Henry Jessup that at the end of the first +year the new missionary thought he knew the Arabic; at the end of the +second year he thought he knew nothing; and at the end of the third year +he wondered how he got hold of it. + +The isolation of a new missionary is at times appalling. No matter how +kind and helpful the older missionaries may be, they are strangers, +after all, with whom one must get acquainted. The houses are strange, +and not adapted to make one feel at home readily. Servants with their +very imperfect knowledge of English must be directed mainly by signs. +Everything seems unbearably dirty; the sun is unaccountably hot, even in +winter; the food is strange and does not appeal to a Westerner's +appetite. But, worst of all, among the babel of noises, there is not a +familiar sound, and with the best intentions of friendliness, one cannot +reveal the intention, except by the perpetual, inane grin. + +We began the study of the language, as everyone does, almost at the +wharf. Even before recovering from the effects of the voyage, the Arabic +primer, with its alphabet, was brought to the bedside. At one of the +earliest lessons in Tripoli, the old, gray-bearded teacher wished to +impress a new word, "Milh." He repeated the difficult combination, and +then inquired in some way whether we knew what the word meant. The look +of blank ignorance on our faces gave him the answer, and he rose and +stepped with dignity, in his flowing robes, to the door. Opening this, +he called in a loud voice across the open court to the cook, "Peter, +bring me some salt." Then with a little of this household necessity in +his palm, he came back to his stupid pupils, and, pointing at the salt, +said emphatically, "Milh." That word was permanently fixed in our +vocabulary. + +In less than two months after our arrival in Syria, and forty days after +taking possession of our own home, came New Year's Day. With the +self-confidence of youth and ignorance, we decided to keep open house on +our own account. In the forenoon we had our language teacher with us to +steer us through the intricacies of oriental etiquette, and to tell us +what to say, in the varying circumstances, and all went well. After +dinner, however, we excused him, as we did not expect many more calls, +and waited our fate. After a time, when the parlor was well filled with +a mixed company of men and women, among whom was the old teacher who had +taught us the word for salt, I used the wrong pronominal termination, +probably the masculine where I should have used the feminine. The old +gentleman rose from his place with great impressiveness and started +round the entire circle, pointing his finger at each person, and +pronouncing distinctly to every man, "tak" and to every woman, "tik." It +created a laugh, of course, but it is needless to say that whatever +mistakes I have made in Arabic since, it has never been because I did +not know the difference between the masculine and feminine form of the +second person pronominal affix. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION + + +In preparing for the active service of a missionary, it was necessary to +have a horse and a touring outfit. Our servant was told that we wanted +to buy a horse, and if he heard of any good chance, to let us know. In a +few days a man came to the house with a large gray mare for me to try. I +rode on her a little and examined her so far as I was capable of doing, +and was greatly pleased with her. I knew enough, however, of oriental +methods, to show no particular zeal over the matter, and left the owner +without any indication of my pleasure. In my own mind, I decided that I +should like to own that mare, and that I would be willing to pay as much +as twenty pounds for her, though I hoped to secure a horse for half that +amount. As I came in I told the servant to make inquiry about the price +of the mare. He returned soon, saying the owner would sacrifice his own +interests so far as to let me have her for seventy-five pounds. I did +not buy that mare, but waited several months until I found a sturdy gray +horse, which I bought for less than ten pounds. He served me well for +five years, when I sold him for little less than the original cost. + +Tripoli field was rejoicing and congratulating itself in those days over +the macadamized road recently opened between Tripoli at the coast and +Homs and Hamath in the interior. It was sixty-five miles to Homs and +thirty-five more to Hamath. A cumbersome diligence made the trip to Homs +in eleven hours, going one day and returning the next, and a lighter +vehicle made the round trip between Homs and Hamath every day. This was +a great advance in rapid transit and a great convenience in all lines of +work. + +In all Syria there was not a mile of railroad, and in northern Syria +there was no carriage road besides the one line just mentioned. All +traveling had to be done on horseback or afoot. Horses, donkeys, mules +and camels were the universal means of travel and transportation. Every +day caravans of camels came into Tripoli by the hundred, bringing grain, +olive oil and Syrian butter from the interior. They returned loaded with +sugar, rice, kerosene oil, and English yarn and cloth. The first +railroad was built in the early nineties from Jaffa to Jerusalem. Later +came the line from Beirut to Damascus; then the line from Haifa through +Galilee to Damascus, the line from Damascus to the south, and the line +from Damascus to Medina. Then came the branch line, from the +Beirut-Damascus line, to Homs, Hamath and Aleppo, and finally the +Tripoli Homs line and the German Bagdad line, passing through Aleppo +from east to west. With many other lines and extensions under +consideration, it is evident that railroad communication is fairly +started in Syria and that this part of the East has begun to feel the +influence of steam. + +During our first year in Tripoli, before I was at all familiar with the +various places, I overheard a conversation between two of our associates +about a recent trip to Beirut by land. The remark was made, "I suppose +you took a carriage from Junieh to Beirut." This is about one fourth of +the distance and was considered a great gain in the facilities of +transportation. The answer came, with even greater evidence of +satisfaction, "No, I rode in a carriage from Jebail." This meant a +doubling of the advantage, as Jebail is halfway between Tripoli and +Beirut. That was in 1889 and it was not until 1912 that this carriage +road was completed, so that one could make the whole distance on wheels. + +The tramway connecting Tripoli City and the Mina, or harbor, was the +only tramway in Syria and was an object of great pride. It had a single +track about two miles long, with a switch in the middle for the passing +of cars from the opposite ends. A car started from each terminus about +once in twenty minutes and made the trip in about the same length of +time, the fare being four cents and the motor power horses or mules. The +cars were originally imported from Birmingham, of the double-decker +type. They are still in daily service, receiving a fresh coat of paint +and necessary repairs every year. This line continues to run, though +with somewhat more frequent service and with a reduced fare of two +cents, since public carriages now run on a road alongside the tram. +Carriage roads now extend in several directions from Tripoli, and there +are many public carriages to hire; even an automobile is occasionally +seen and several bicycles have made their appearance. + +The postal system is a curiosity to those who are accustomed to free +delivery several times a day. It would be supposed that the Turkish +post would carry all letters for people in Turkey, since Turkey is a +member of the International Postal Union. At all the seaports, however, +one finds foreign post offices, which do a large business in receiving +and forwarding mail by all the steamers. To points in the interior they +cannot deliver mail. In Tripoli we had the French, and later the +Austrian service. In 1890 cholera appeared in Tripoli and all steamers +stopped calling at the port, to avoid quarantine. We were confined to +the use of the Turkish mail. Two messengers brought the mail by land +from Beirut each week. It was Tripoli which was infected with cholera, +and yet the incoming mail was stopped outside the city and drenched with +carbolic acid, while the outgoing mail was not touched. The mail +distributor in Tripoli could not read any language, not even Arabic, and +so he used to bring the bag directly to our house and empty it on the +floor, in order to get my help in assorting the letters for him. We were +glad to have the first pick of the mail, as it assured our receiving +all our own mail, and that promptly. + +At the last conference of the International Postal Union there was a +general reduction of postage and an increase in the unit of weight. +Turkey has given her adherence to this international arrangement, but +maintains her old internal rates so that we have the present absurd +condition, that a piaster stamp will carry twenty grams to any place +abroad, while it will carry only fifteen grams from one town to its next +neighbor. Additional weight abroad requires three quarters of a piaster +for each additional twenty grams, while for internal use every +additional fifteen grams requires a full piaster. Thus a letter weighing +sixty grams will go from an interior town like Homs to San Francisco for +two piasters and a half, while the same letter, if sent from Homs to +Tripoli, would cost four piasters. + +It might be supposed that there would be good caravan roads, at least, +in a country where all produce must be carried on quadrupeds, and all +travelers must ride or walk. The reverse was true, and though the past +twenty-five years have witnessed great improvement in this respect, +there is still much to be desired in most localities. Many of the roads +cannot be described as anything but trails through the rocky ground. The +chief consideration in locating a road seems to be to have it run +through ground which is fit for nothing else, for it would be a pity to +waste arable ground, and so a road must go around, no matter what the +distance. Whatever stones are gathered from the fields are thrown into +the highway, making it rougher than ever. In some parts of the +mountains, the road will lie along the top of a solid stone dike, ten to +fifteen feet wide, from which the traveler looks down to a depth of +eight or ten feet upon the fields and mulberry patches on each side. It +has been said that a road, in Syria, is that part of the country to be +avoided in traveling, so far as possible. This inference is easy to +understand when you notice that all the trodden paths are in the fields +at either side, and that people travel in the rough roads, only when +there is no escape. While the grain is growing the farmers will do their +best, by building up stone walls, to keep the animals out of their +fields, but just as soon as the harvest is gathered these obstructions +go down and the current of traffic resumes the easier course until the +winter rains make the mud a worse enemy than the rough stones. + +In other places it is often an interesting study to try to decide +whether the water flows in the road, or whether people travel in the +watercourses. It is something like the insolvable question as to which +came first, the hen or the egg. The fact remains that, as a rule, in wet +weather and rough country, the traveler will find his horse splashing +through a stream of water flowing down the road. The explanation is +simple. There is nowhere any system of drainage, and every man's +purpose is to turn the streams of rain water away from his own land. +Useful land cannot be wasted for watercourses any more than for roads, +and hence the waste lands are devoted to the double purpose, with the +resulting confusion as to which is the intruder. + +The obscurity of the roads leads to many more or less unpleasant +experiences. There are roads so steep and difficult that it is no +unusual experience to see a muleteer take hold of his mule's tail as he +goes down the mountain path, and by a judicious holding back, help the +animal to steady himself under a heavy, awkward load. On the other hand, +when he is going up the mountain, the tired muleteer will take hold of +the same convenient handle to get a little help for himself in the +ascent. + +One summer night, Mrs. Nelson and I were belated on the higher slopes of +Mount Lebanon. The trail was little more than a path for goats, and was +quite unfamiliar to us. In the dark night, we lost the way more than +once, and we were becoming quite exhausted in repeated efforts to regain +the path, when, at last, we seemed to have strayed completely, and I +could not locate the road at all. We had to take a little rest, and wait +for the moon to rise. We sat upon the mountain side, under the shade of +fragrant cedars, tired, hungry and thirsty. The surroundings were +charming and the dim outlines of forest and mountain beautiful. The +night air was refreshing, after an exceptionally hot day; but when one +has lost his way, he is not in a condition to appreciate fully the +beauties of nature or the charms of his surroundings. As we sat there, +gaining some rest, I began to study the outline of the hills, and +concluded that the road must lie in a certain curve of the mountains not +far away. On investigating I found my impression correct, and we resumed +our journey, reaching our destination just as the moon appeared over the +highest ridge of the mountains. + +On another occasion it was the intelligence of my horse rather than my +own which saved me considerable inconvenience. I was belated upon the +mountain and overtaken by sunset, some eight miles from my destination. +Confident in my horse as well as in myself, I pushed on as rapidly as +possible over the rough path. To add to my difficulty, a thick mountain +fog settled about me until it was impossible to see the path ten feet +ahead. In descending a steep slope, leading my horse, I missed the trail +and found myself in the vineyards. I knew that the village was close at +hand and anticipated no difficulty in working down to the road. At any +rate, it seemed likely that we should arouse the night watchman in the +vineyard and it would be his duty to turn us out of the vineyard, +exactly what we wished for. We stumbled along, over grapevines and +stones, but came no nearer to the road, nor did we disturb the sleeping +watchman. After what seemed like endless wandering, though the distance +was not far nor the time long, I came up against a stone wall and could +see a path beyond. Getting over this wall was simple, but which way to +turn in the road was not clear. I tried the turn to the right, +tentatively, not fully convinced myself. My horse yielded reluctantly +and walked very slowly indeed over the rough stones. After a few minutes +my own doubts increased and I determined to test the horse. Dropping the +reins loosely on his neck, I gave him no sign of guidance at all. As +soon as he felt the relaxing of pressure on the bits, his head rose, his +ears stood erect and he seemed to cast an inquiring glance out of the +corner of his eye. When convinced that he was free to choose for +himself, he immediately swung around and started at a rapid walk in the +opposite direction. In a very few minutes I could see the village lights +struggling through the mists, and was soon at my own door. + +This same horse gave me another illustration of his intelligence. I was +riding along the carriage road, on the seashore, intending to turn up +to one of the mountain villages. There were two roads to this village, +and when we came to the first my horse tried to turn up, but was easily +held back and started briskly along, as if fully understanding my +purpose. When we came to the second road we found that it had been +plowed under and that grain several inches high was growing where the +path had been. I knew that the road had been moved a short distance so +as to pass a khan recently erected. The horse had not yet gone over this +altered road and so was puzzled. I left him to his own guidance. When he +came to the point where the road had divided, he stopped and looked at +the grain, and then went slowly on, looking constantly at the field, +until, after about twenty or thirty feet, he decided to make a plunge, +and struck directly through the growing grain to where the old road had +been at the other edge of the field. + +The introduction of railroads and carriages throughout the country +facilitates travel and business a great deal, but it takes away much of +the interest and diversion of getting about from place to place. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +EVANGELISTIC TRIPS + + +It was a practice with us for many years to arrange a special +evangelistic medical trip in the spring of the year. Sometimes Mrs. +Nelson and I would join Dr. Harris in a journey of two or three weeks, +and sometimes the doctor and I would go alone. One of the most memorable +of these journeys was in the spring of 1893, in the month of May. We had +our tent and camp outfit and the large chests of medical supplies +carried on mules and were accompanied by our cook, with his portable +kitchen packed away under him, and the Syrian assistant of the doctor, +so that we made quite a party altogether. We started along the shore +north from Tripoli, making our first camp about ten miles out of the +city. The next day's journey brought us to Tartoose on the shore +opposite the island of Arvad. Ezek. 27:8. This island lies only a short +distance from the shore, but I have never yet been able to reach it +because of the violent west wind on each occasion of a visit to +Tartoose. The island is wholly covered by the town, which is occupied by +sturdy sailors and fishermen. There are many interesting relics of +ancient times in Tartoose, though it is possible that many of the coins +offered to the credulous public may have been produced recently in the +place itself. + +[Illustration: LATAKIA BOYS' SCHOOL] + +[Illustration: TARTOOSE _Crusaders' Church_] + +At the edge of the town stands a fine Gothic church, whose substantial +walls and graceful arches are a pleasure to the eye. The empty windows +make one feel lonesome as he approaches the building, and the bare +interior speaks of a decadent Christianity that adds to the sadness. +But, worst of all, is the minaret crudely built on the corner of the +roof, for this is another of the many Christian churches in Turkey which +have been transformed into mosques. + +At another of our camping places we found, near at hand, an old Roman +amphitheater, where it was not difficult to imagine a concourse of +pleasure seekers seated on the stone benches watching some exhibition of +strength or skill in the arena below. Wherever one goes in Syria, he is +reminded of an ancient glory and power, in close and vivid contrast to a +present state of decay and weakness. + +Our first Sabbath, on this journey, found us at Latakia, where we spent +the day with our neighbors and fellow workers of the Reformed +Presbyterian mission. This mission was started especially to reach the +Nusairiyeh people of north Syria. Because of the persistent interference +of the Turkish Government, their work has been greatly hampered and +their efforts largely restricted to the training of boys and girls in +the boarding institutions in the city, and ministration to the sick in +the hospital. It was a great pleasure to have this break in our journey +and the pleasant intercourse with those engaged in the same kind of +service as our own, and to have the privilege of speaking to the young +people in their schools. + +On Monday we went a short distance from the city, pitching our tent near +a village of considerable size on the plain some miles back from the +sea. As I sat in the moonlight at the door of the tent, a man wearing +the white turban of a Moslem scholar approached me. He seated himself +near me after a pleasant greeting and we fell into agreeable +conversation. After some time, this man took the opportunity, when no +one was near enough to overhear him, to ask most earnestly that we +should send them a teacher for their children. I was surprised at the +request from such a source and turned the conversation so as to make +sure that he understood who we were and what kind of schools we +conducted. He showed that he understood the matter fully, and that he +really desired a Protestant Christian teacher for his town. I then asked +him directly, "Are you not a Moslem?" Looking about again, to make sure +no one should hear him, he said, "Yes, I am a Moslem now," with an +emphasis on the last word which revealed the facts in the case. He was +of a Nusairiyeh family but had yielded to the persistent pressure of the +government so far as to accept the form of adherence to Islam, though in +his heart he hated the system and its followers most cordially. + +A long day's ride brought us through the wild and tortuous valley of the +Nahr-ul-Kandil, up the slope of Mount Cassius to the town of Kessab, +some four thousand feet above the sea, where the Latakia missionaries +have their summer homes. It was a most beautiful though rugged ride, and +would have been thoroughly enjoyable in good weather. The wild flowers +were in full bloom, and every turn in the road brought into view a new +combination of varied and bright colors, where the little blossoms +clustered amid the green foliage, among the gray rocks. The great +drawback to our enjoyment lay in the fact that for a large part of the +distance we rode in a heavy and most unexpected rainfall. We were not +prepared for such an experience in the month of May, and so reached our +destination soaked and cold. We had been directed to take possession of +one of the cottages belonging to the missionaries in Latakia, and it was +certainly a most welcome haven. We were able to light a fire in the +kitchen stove and spread out our wet garments to dry, while we warmed +ourselves in the grateful heat. + +It was a disappointment the next day that the top of Cassius was +enveloped in heavy cloud, forbidding an ascent. This mountain is about +five thousand feet in height, rising directly from the sea, and so is a +conspicuous object from every direction and gives an extensive view from +its summit. We could tarry but one day, and descended to the old site of +Seleucia, at the mouth of the Orontes, and saw some remnants of the old +harbor from which Paul set sail more than once. The Orontes is quite +wide and deep near its mouth and we crossed it on just such a wire ferry +as I had seen many years before on the Connecticut River in +Massachusetts. The gardens of Swadia were most refreshing with their +green verdure, cool shade and rich fruit, after a long day's ride in the +heat, and again we had the pleasure of missionary fellowship, for our +friends of the Reformed Presbyterian mission have a station here also. +Another easy stage brought us to old Antioch, so closely associated with +the beginning of Christian history. It is not an attractive city in +outward appearance and has suffered much at different times from +earthquake. + +From Antioch we followed the Orontes Valley up to Hamath, where we were +once more among our own organized stations. Such journeys give us an +acquaintance with the country and the people, which is of the most vital +importance in planning for the proper expansion of the work. + +Once, on a pleasant summer evening, we were encamped near a Nusairiyeh +village. Among those gathered about us were an elderly peasant and his +son, a well-built, sturdy youth of seventeen or eighteen years. As he +sat before us this young man appeared to be in perfect health and vigor, +but when he rose to walk, his awkward gait revealed his misfortune, for +both feet were so badly deformed that he walked on his ankles and not on +the soles of his feet. The doctor was asked whether this defect could be +remedied. After a careful examination the lad was told that the +operation would be painful, and that some time would be required, but +that if he would come to the hospital, prepared to stay as long as +should be necessary, he would be able to come away, walking erect, like +other people. The faces brightened at once, and we shared in their +pleasure at the prospect of this deliverance. The next morning, however, +we were told that the family had talked over the matter and decided not +to have the operation performed. We assured them there should be no +expense, but they said it was not the matter of expense. Then we told +them of similar cases which had been successfully treated, but they +assured us they had no doubt of the doctor's skill. We encouraged the +young man to bear the pain for the sake of increased enjoyment in life +afterwards, but he said he was not afraid of the pain. What then was the +trouble? At last we learned the truth. So long as the lad could show two +such clubbed feet, he would be excused from military service; but if +they were made straight he would be called to the army; and he would +rather go through life a cripple than to give several years of his vigor +to service in the Turkish army. And he is no exception. + +We were approaching a large town of bigoted people, wondering how we +should secure an opening for our message. I was riding slightly in front +of the doctor, occupied with plans for securing access to the people. +Suddenly I heard the doctor's voice behind me saying, "Boy, do you want +your eye straightened?" On looking back I saw a lad of about fifteen +years, with a decidedly crossed eye, beside the doctor's horse. He +promptly accepted the offer, and we hastened to dismount and tie our +horses. A table in the little roadside café was quickly cleared, while +the doctor got out his case of instruments from his saddlebags. The boy +was placed on the table and in an incredibly short time the cords were +severed so that the eyeball took its proper position, and we were +thoroughly advertised. By the time our camp equipage came up, we had +been provided with an excellent place to camp, and had nothing to +complain of in the reception of the people. + +A memorable experience was in the neighborhood of a large village whose +gardens are said to be watered by three hundred springs. Whatever the +correct number may be, there is no question about the abundance of +water and the luxuriance of the gardens. We had three tents, one for +medical clinics and one apiece for our two households, and settled down +for a fortnight's work. Every day we had crowds about the tent for +medical attention and for religious services. The evenings gave abundant +opportunity for work among those who gathered about us after their day's +work was done. They were glad to join in the hymns of praise, and +listened earnestly to the spoken message and read word. One evening, the +boys who gathered about the tent told me that the superintendent of +their school was in town and had begun an examination, to be finished +the next day. I decided to go to the school the next morning to make the +acquaintance of the superintendent and to see what the school was doing. +When I arose the following day, I found many of the boys about the tent, +and asked them why they were not at school for the examination. "Oh," +they said, "there is no examination to-day. Early this morning, the +superintendent, the teachers and the headman of the village took their +horses, a large bottle of spirits and a young kid, and went up to the +top of the mountain to a famous spring to spend the day in a drinking +spree." + +One of the pleasantest evenings I remember in my regular routine touring +was spent in this same village. We had brought our party to a garden, +owned by one of our friends who was always glad to have us make it our +headquarters. We had eaten our supper and were seated on the ground, +under a high, branching tree into which was trained a huge grapevine. +Behind us was a little hut, in which the caretaker slept in stormy +weather. At one side was a rude booth where the owner slept during the +summer. An oil lantern gave some light. One by one quite a group of +neighbors and friends assembled and, after some general conversation, +we sang some hymns. Then I opened the Bible for a little reading, with +simple exposition. As I read and talked to them, the row of dark faces +was turned toward me with an intentness and eagerness to hear that made +me hope they might not see me or hear my words, but hear those words of +life spoken so many years ago in Palestine, and see that Face from which +alone shines the true light. + +We are not always left to do as we please on these trips, for the +paternal Turkish Government sometimes takes an unnecessary interest in +our plans and shows an excessive concern for our safety. We had crossed +a rugged section of the mountains and come down to a walled town, which +is a government center. Here we camped near the town and were promptly +favored with a call from officials, sent by the governor to find out who +we were. We paid a formal call on his Excellency and were allowed to +remain quietly as long as we desired. When we broke camp a polite +message came from the governor, asking where we were going and offering +a guard and escort. We returned a grateful acknowledgment of his +courtesy, but assured him that we were familiar with the roads and would +not trouble him to send an escort. It was only after some difficulty +that we succeeded in getting away alone. We learned afterwards that we +were followed, and that, in accordance with instructions from +headquarters, word was sent from place to place to keep watch of us. At +one large town we had large crowds about our camp and large audiences +for evening services for several days, when suddenly there was a change +and no one came near us. Apparently the sick were all healed and all +interest in singing and conversation had ceased. It developed that word +had been sent to the nearest government center, and orders had come back +at once, not to interfere with our comfort but to notify the people to +have nothing to do with us. At one of these places, which were all +occupied by Nusairiyeh and Ismaeliyeh people, Mrs. Nelson was talking +with some of the women about religion. They said, "Do Christian women +have any religion?" When assured that we believe religion to be for +everyone, whether male or female, rich or poor, wise or ignorant, they +replied: "It is not so with us. A woman with us can have no share in +religion. If one of us should accidentally overhear the men talking +about religious beliefs, so that she unintentionally learned some +religious doctrine, she ought to acknowledge it and be put to death. And +it is right to be so, for a woman must know nothing of religion." + +On another occasion, quite a party of us stopped to spend the night in +one of these towns. While I was busy with arrangements for the night +other members of the party went to look about the little castle at the +edge of the town. Our presence was reported to the acting governor. +Unfortunately he was a man of surly disposition and anxious to magnify +his office. He demanded our Turkish passports, which he had a technical +right to do. Unfortunately some of the party had failed to provide +themselves with these documents as they were seldom called for. It gave +our little governor a chance and he used it, insisting that he must send +us to Hamath, practically under guard, but nominally under military +protection. We were intending to go to Hamath, but not directly, and so +it was finally agreed that the horseman go with us to Mahardeh where we +were to lodge, and accompany us the following day to Hamath. When we +started out the next morning, it was ludicrous to see the haughty airs +of this soldier who was sent with us. He acted as if he really believed +these foreigners were committed to his absolute control and carried his +head very high. Before going many miles we had succeeded, by pleasant +conversation, in limbering him up considerably, and by noon, when we +stopped for luncheon, he displayed his power in our behalf by ordering +the villagers to serve us in every way possible. By evening, when we +entered Mahardeh, he was quite cringing in his servility, for now he +realized that he was alone and we were among friends, so it was worth +while to be genial and submissive. When I informed him that I was not +going with the party the next day, he claimed to be greatly terrified +and begged me most humbly not to subject him to such peril. "For," said +he, "the number of foreigners is mentioned in the governor's letter, and +if I do not produce the full number, I shall be held responsible." I +said, "Be that as it may, I must stay here over Sunday and on Monday +morning I will follow and report myself to his Excellency if necessary." +He went away, apparently in much uncertainty. I knew, however, that the +matter was a mere formality and would bring no risk either to him or to +me; and so it proved, for the governor took no interest in the matter at +all. + +On a warm summer evening, Dr. Harris and I rode up to the sheik's house +in a village I have never visited before or since. As strangers we were +welcomed to the public room. It was soon discovered that a doctor was +present, and immediately all who were diseased came about us. It was a +marvel to see men lie down before this stranger with perfect confidence +and allow him to cut about their eyes or put drops in them. It does +happen, alas, too often, that this credulity costs them dear, for many +an eye has been ruined by conscienceless quacks who trade on the +simplicity of the people. It is a pleasure, however, to see them place +themselves in the hands of the skillful and honest missionary physician, +who will help them, if possible, or tell them truthfully if there is no +remedy. At sunset a large dish of wheat, boiled with some meat, was +brought out, and cakes of barley bread placed about it. All who were +present were bidden to partake, and we did the best we could to satisfy +our hunger. After a social evening we spread our beds and made ready for +sleep, if possible. As I lay on my bed, I could hear those who sat about +discussing us. They told of the doctor's famous skill and what he had +done there before them. I was glad to find that I held the humble +position of doctor's assistant in their estimation. But I could not help +wondering then and since about that village. So far as I know that is +the only missionary visit ever made there. Is it enough? + +[Illustration: ALEPPO MINARET] + + + + +CHAPTER V + +ALEPPO + + +In 1893 a plan was developed in the mission to extend our sphere of +labor so as to include the city of Aleppo, which had been occupied many +years before by the mission and then left because of the exigencies of +the work and lack of forces. It was a four days' journey from our +nearest outstation, and hence not easy to care for; but as Tripoli +Station was the nearest part of the mission, Aleppo was placed under our +direction. + +Aleppo is one of the largest cities in Syria, and a most important +commercial center. It is nearly the most northern point for the use of +the Arabic language, as Turkish becomes the general medium of +communication one day's journey farther north. Being so near the Turkish +district, there are many Turkish-speaking people in Aleppo, but the +city as a whole is essentially an Arabic-speaking place. The American +Board had a Turkish congregation connected with their mission and +maintained church and school work in Aleppo for the Turkish-speaking +strangers resident in the city. There was the most cordial welcome from +these missionaries to our proposal to organize work for the +Arabic-speaking population. Before making my first visit of supervision +to Aleppo it was arranged by correspondence that Mr. Sanders of Aintab, +the missionary in charge of that district, should meet me and spend +several days in conference as to the arrangement of details of our +interlocking work. It had been proposed most kindly that we should hold +our Arabic services in the premises of the Turkish congregation. + +In many ways that first journey to Aleppo was a unique experience. It +was a venture into a region of country wholly new to me, and involved +planning for a new department of service. There were two ways to reach +Aleppo, one wholly by land, involving a somewhat dangerous ride from +Hamath for four days; the other by sea to Alexandretta, and thence by +horseback over a carriage road to Aleppo. It was decided to take this +latter course, though all subsequent visits were made the other way. +After gaining all the information I could before leaving home, I took +the steamer to Alexandretta, where I landed on Monday morning. At once I +began my search for a riding animal, and at length secured a horse +guaranteed to be swift and of easy gait, whose owner promised to see me +in Aleppo by the evening of the third day. Delayed by those who wished +to accompany us, it was past noon before we set out on the road. It was +not long before I discovered that the ease had been left out in the +structure of my horse, and that any speed he may have had once was +well-nigh worn out. It was clear that I should have to work my passage, +but my courage held out. + +We pressed up the mountain slope and crossed the ridge in good time, +having many beautiful views back over the dark blue Mediterranean. Mount +Cassius lifted its rocky head five thousand feet, directly out of the +sea, to the south, showing where the Orontes empties into the sea at old +Seleucia. After passing the summit of the range we dropped down rapidly +to the Antioch plain, having the lake of Antioch in full view before us. +By sunset we had reached the place intended as our first halt, +thirty-seven kilometers from the shore. I found no place of +entertainment but a bare inn where I could set up my camp bed and sleep. +There was no food to be had for love or money and so I had to depend on +the scant supplies I had brought with me in my saddlebags. + +The second day's ride was much longer than the first, as we kept to the +saddle for twelve hours, notwithstanding the entreaty of my companions +to break the journey earlier. I reminded them of the pledge to reach +Aleppo on the third day, and so kept on until dusk. We had left the +carriage road for a more direct trail and stopped for the night in a +small, desolate village. There was no decent shelter to be found and so +I gladly set up my bed on the threshing floor, and slept under the +starry sky. I inquired for milk, eggs, bread, cheese, anything in the +way of food, offering ample pay for anything edible. After much +persuasion the people were induced to burrow in the straw pile on the +threshing floor from which they produced a watermelon. This was +refreshing at least, and helped to wash down my bread, which was getting +rather dry, as I did not like to use much water in this swampy region. +Long before dawn we were again on the road and pushed steadily ahead +over ridge after ridge, until, in the middle of the afternoon, the city +of Aleppo broke on our sight, a most refreshing vision. In one of the +valleys near Aleppo the traveler cannot fail to notice many heaps of +small stones, evidently placed there to mark certain spots. The place is +called the valley of the slain, and each pile indicates where some +victim has fallen. + +The appearance of Aleppo as one approaches it from the west is not +unpleasing, for it is the first well-built town seen after leaving the +coast. The houses are built of white limestone and the gardens about the +city lend a touch of green, most refreshing after the barren country +left behind. At first sight the designation of Aleppo as +Halch-es-Shahba--Aleppo the Gray--seems most appropriate. It is a pity +to detract from the more poetic explanation of the title. Old tradition +says that Abraham had his encampment at the site of Aleppo for a long +time, and was recognized throughout the region for his wealth and +generosity. He had set apart for the use of the poor the milk from a +certain gray cow in his herd, and hence some one was always on the +watch at evening. As soon as the gray cow came forward, this watchman +would shout at the top of his voice, "Haleb es Shahba," which means, "He +has milked the gray cow." Hence the city, which later grew up at this +spot, was called Haleb-es-Shahba, or Aleppo. + +I shall never forget a conversation connected with that journey. My +comrades were all Moslems, and as we jogged on, hour after hour, during +those three days, there were opportunities for conversation on many +topics. One day I asked one of them who was a religious teacher, what +his doctrine had to say as to the fate of non-Moslem infants who died in +infancy. I was surprised to find how closely his view parallels our own +Christian view of infant salvation. He answered at once that they are +all saved through the intercession of Mohammed. + +On reaching the city I sought a hotel, in order to remove the soil of +travel before hunting up our friends in this strange city. I was in the +midst of making myself presentable when a loud knock at my door was +followed immediately by its opening, and a rough Turkish police officer +made his appearance. Without a word or suggestion of apology, he began a +series of questions as to my name, residence and occupation. I let him +exhaust his list of questions and then asked, as quietly as possible, +whether he would like to look over my Turkish passport, which was +required of all in those days. He seemed to be so completely taken aback +at my evident lack of awe for himself, and surprised to meet a person +who was prepared in accordance with the law, that he could scarcely +stammer out in reply, "Why, have you a passport?" "Certainly," I +replied. "Here it is, with all the information you need." He sat down +most meekly and copied off the items he needed and took his departure in +a really polite manner. + +As this was my first visit to Aleppo, everything seemed strange to me, +except in so far as all oriental cities have a measure of resemblance. +As I was met also by Mr. Sanders, a missionary in charge of established +work, I found it natural to expect to be dependent on him for +everything. It came thus as a surprise to have him turn to me, in the +street, to act as interpreter. He spoke Turkish, but my Arabic was far +more necessary and serviceable in general intercourse. + +These experiences impressed it upon me most vividly that Aleppo is +thoroughly an Arabic-speaking city, and that the work should be in +organic connection with the evangelical work in other parts of Syria. +The Turkish congregation is a natural member of the Cilicia Union and +should affiliate with the churches of the north, but the Arabic +evangelical work belongs with the organizations under the care of our +mission in Syria. For four years this arrangement was continued and we +maintained Arabic services with a Syrian preacher and a day school with +a Syrian teacher. Each year two missionary visits were made, the +missionaries in Tripoli alternating in this duty. It was difficult to +carry on the work at such long range. In 1897 a heavy cut in our +appropriations made it necessary to consider every possible method of +retrenchment. At the same time the English Presbyterians were opening a +station in Aleppo for work among the Jews, and it seemed best, all +things considered, to ask our English friends to relieve us of this +responsibility, and assume the care of the work for the Gentiles as well +as for the Jews through the medium of Arabic, in Aleppo. Thus our +official connection with the work in Aleppo ceased, but it has never +passed from our minds that some day an Arabic-speaking evangelical +church in Aleppo should become a member of our Syrian Presbyterian +organization. Now that the railroad has brought Aleppo within six hours' +ride from Hamath, the problem has assumed a new form and we may hope +for a renewal of friendly affiliation. + +Such a city as Aleppo, with about two hundred and fifty thousand people +and increasing commercial importance, demands much of the missionary +organizations. The famous Constantinople Bagdad railway of the Germans +passes through Aleppo. A branch line connects with the Mediterranean at +Alexandretta. The French system from Beirut ends in Aleppo, giving +direct connection with Damascus, Beirut and Tripoli. The work of the +American Board, being at present in Turkish, reaches only a small part +of the population. The English mission places its emphasis on work for +the Jews and has ample scope in that part of the population. There +remains the vast bulk of the whole population, with Arabic as their +language, looking naturally to the American mission in Syria for help +and guidance. The large Moslem population and the numerous nominal +Christians deserve the attention of a resident American missionary to +organize aggressive and effective work. Shall we wait longer before +pressing on in this direction? + +Aleppo has been chosen by the International Committee of the Y.M.C.A. as +a place where a building should be erected and a permanent secretary +established. Should we fall behind the Y.M.C.A.? Whenever the American +Presbyterian Church says the word and furnishes the men and the money, I +am sure the Syrian mission will be ready to send one of its members +forward to this new frontier. God forbid that another quarter century +should pass before this is fulfilled. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +NEW STATIONS AND BUILDINGS + + +It has been my privilege to watch from the beginning the growth and +development of three prosperous churches in the territory of Tripoli +Presbytery. Each one has been marked by peculiarities that render it +especially interesting. In the early years of my acquaintance with the +church in Homs, I heard frequently of evangelistic visits on the part of +the young men of the church to various villages in the plain east of the +city--especially to one large village about two miles southeast of us. +The people of this village are of the Syrian or Jacobite church, and +have no little familiarity with the Bible and a really religious +disposition. Our young men from Homs used to go out in small bands of +two or more, with their gospels and hymn books in their pockets. If +they met a friendly reception, they would go into some house, where +those who were interested would gather together and a simple service or +friendly discussion would be held. If no one asked them to come in, they +would seek a place in the public square where people were gathered +together, and sing a hymn or read a passage to open the way for +discussion. In such cases there was danger of an exhibition of hostility +on the part of those who were unfriendly to the evangelical doctrine. It +happened more than once that these faithful messengers were driven out +of town, pursued with stones as well as reviling. Such treatment, +however, could not suppress the truth, and a strong church has grown up +from the seed thus sown amid hostile persecution. + +There was a most interesting old priest in this town of Feiruzeh who +received the truth into his heart, but never had the courage to leave +the old church, though he was known to be at heart an evangelical +believer. He sought books on the evangelical doctrine and studied them +earnestly, and sometimes attended the Protestant service, being present +at least once on a sacramental occasion. He openly taught his people the +folly of auricular confession and priestly absolution, saying to them: +"If you wish to come to me and tell me of your sins, so that I may help +you and pray with you to God for forgiveness, I am at your service; but +I am a sinner like you and we all have access to one Saviour. I cannot +forgive your sins, but will gladly pray for you and with you." + +There had been some inquiry about the truth on the part of a few people +in the village of El Yazidiyeh. In my first visit to the place we +pitched a tent on the threshing floor outside the village. Much +curiosity in our coming was shown, and some opportunity given to +strengthen the purpose of those who were inclined to the truth. At +length a teacher was stationed there and a simple school opened. One or +two of the people had joined the church in a neighboring village, but +the sacrament had never been administered in the town itself. Several +were ready to make a public profession of their faith in Christ, and it +seemed that the time had come to begin the full life of the little +church, by administering the sacrament on the spot. Plans were arranged +for an evening service in the schoolroom, and a good company was +gathered in the rudely furnished, dark little room. There was much +disturbance outside when it was known what was in progress. One zealous +defender of the truth sprang from his seat and rushed out in a most +militant manner to disperse the noisy crowd without. While the little +service was in progress, it was not always easy to keep the attention of +all, on account of the noisy beating of tin cans near by; and some +pebbles were thrown in at the windows. The service was completed, +however, and this was the beginning of what has proved to be one of our +most vigorous churches. There is now a simple church building, which is +always well filled at regular services, and new members are ready to +come forward at almost every communion service. + +The village of Hakoor is memorable, not so much because of hostile +opposition to the work as because of the apparently feeble instrument +used of God for the establishment of the church. A blind man, of keen +and inquiring mind, lived in this village and made a precarious living +by keeping a little shop. He was respected by his neighbors for his +integrity of character, and trusted by the church authorities for his +fidelity to church duties. He began to hear something of the new +evangelical doctrine and though ready to investigate, was strong in his +opposition and slow to yield to the new faith. When once thoroughly +convinced, however, his very honesty of nature made him accept the truth +and declare himself for the Protestant view. The bishop sent for him, +in order to recall him from his error. He told the bishop that he was +convinced that the teaching and practice of the Greek Church were not in +harmony with the gospel, and that he had decided to follow the teaching +of God rather than that of men, but that he was ready to hear anything +the bishop had to say to convince him that he was mistaken. The bishop +began to read him a controversial tract recently prepared against the +Protestant doctrine. Our blind friend interrupted him, saying: "I have +heard all that and can give you an outline of the whole argument. It +does not convince me and so, if you have nothing stronger, it will do no +good." The bishop then reviled him, comparing his course to that of +Judas toward Christ, and so cast him off. The blind man went home, glad +to suffer abuse for the truth. He gathered around him a group of +neighbors who studied the gospel under his guidance, and a little church +has grown up in that village, to which he ministered regularly for a +year, when no other preacher could be found. The little band has been +full of zeal and has raised the money to build a little chapel in which +they worship and in which their children are taught. + +By means which are insufficient in the sight of men, in spite of +opposition from those who are hostile to the truth, God's word continues +to bear fruit and the gospel light continues to spread throughout the +world. + +The missionary is met, in his periodic visitation of the outstations, +with every conceivable request and complaint. I am often asked to mend a +clock or a watch. I have been appealed to to adjust a coffee mill which +did not work right. Matrimonial and family difficulties must often be +arranged. I have told the people that there is one complaint I am always +glad to hear, and that is to the effect that the place of worship is too +small for the regular attendants. When I first went to the village of +Minyara, the services were held in a small room about twenty by +twenty-five feet. There was room to spare, though not a great deal. In a +few years it became necessary to plan for enlargement. This was +accomplished by securing a piece of land adjacent to the building, +taking out the end wall and extending the room so as to increase its +capacity about two thirds. The growth of the congregation was so rapid +and steady that this enlargement was not completed before the room was +again inadequate. An appeal was made to a generous friend in St. Louis, +and five hundred dollars were sent for the Minyara chapel. A further +piece of land was secured, and plans made for an entirely new and larger +building. The outline is rectangular, and the flat roof is supported by +three rows of arches, resting on six pillars. This building has been +ample for the accommodation of this growing church for many years, +though it is often well filled and would be far from sufficient, were +not half the members in America. + +In the city of Homs the old church had a flat dirt roof supported by two +heavy arches, which made the room seem dark and contracted. The regular +congregations taxed the capacity of the building, and the roof timbers +were showing signs of weakness which would necessitate an early renewal. +The pastor of the church began to work earnestly for a reconstruction of +the roof, with an enlargement of the audience room. There was a little +vacant space at one end of the building which if it were inclosed would +increase the capacity about forty per cent. At the same time the heavy +arches could be removed and a galvanized iron roof placed over the +enlarged building. But this would cost a considerable sum, and how was +that to be raised? The people thought they could not raise more than two +hundred dollars. The same friend in St. Louis, who had provided for the +Minyara chapel, sent another five hundred dollars, and we made this +proposition to the church: "After the church spends two hundred and +fifty dollars, the mission will put in five hundred, but if any more is +needed the church must provide it." They went to work with a will. When +the dirt from the old roof was to be carried out they organized a +regular church bee. All the men of the church came together, the pastor, +the doctor, the teacher, the merchant, each one taking one of the rough +baskets in which they carry dirt, and all together got the whole pile +removed at a considerable saving to the building fund. Before the work +was finished the church had raised and expended quite as much money as +they had received from outside. This enlarged place of worship has again +become too small, and its further enlargement is a pressing problem. + +[Illustration: HADETH SUMMER HOME] + +[Illustration: ABU MAROON, THE HADETH CARPENTER] + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +CAMPING LIFE + + +At the close of a tour one spring, Mrs. Nelson and I were compelled to +reach home on a fixed date, because of the expected arrival of guests. +The weather had been unpropitious and the rains heavy for the season of +the year. At one point we had been shut in for several days by a +snowstorm, and all the rivers were unusually high. We had a broad plain +to cross, intersected by three rivers which must be forded. The rain had +been persistent, but ceased on the day we were obliged to start for +home. We reached the first river after about an hour's ride, and crossed +it successfully, the water coming near to the girths of the saddles. The +second river was reached and crossed without serious difficulty, but +from there onward the entire plain seemed to be under water, and our +horses splashed along through water and mud without interruption. Toward +sundown we neared the last stream, and congratulated ourselves that just +beyond it we should find the carriage road and a dry place for the +night. Our road lay through a wretched little Nusairiyeh village, just +before reaching the river, and as we passed the houses we were hailed by +many voices assuring us that the river could not be forded with safety. +I did not believe this at first, thinking it merely a ruse to compel us +to spend the night in their village. Such an event would be more or less +profitable to the people who would provide our necessities for a +consideration, even if there was no thought of robbery, which was quite +possible also. We waited for our muleteers, as they were familiar with +the stream and would be able to decide whether we could cross or not. +Their verdict agreed with the statement of the villagers and so we were +obliged to negotiate for a lodging place. + +After some parley we were allowed to stop in the sheik's public room. +There was not a dry spot about the town, but by riding up close to the +door, we were able to dismount on a large log, and then jump across a +mud puddle to the doorsill, and so enter the room assigned to us. It +would be hard to make anyone who has not seen such houses realize what +this room was like. It was about twenty feet square, with one door and +no window. The lack of this latter was partly supplied by the fact that +the wall of the house had tumbled in at one corner, leaving a ragged +hole through which light and air entered freely. The floor was of dirt +and at two levels. One half, which was used to accommodate people, was +reached by a high step and was comparatively dry. In the middle of this +higher floor was a smoldering wood fire, from which the smoke had +colored the roof timbers a shiny black. The lower half of the floor was +on a level with the ground outside or even a little lower, and was +decidedly muddy. This section was for the accommodation of horses and +cattle. When our party was all inside, so that we could take a census, +we found that the occupants of the room for the night were to be, +besides myself and my wife, the three muleteers, a cook and a Syrian +maid accompanying us to the city. We were in the higher part of the +room. In the other part were two horses, four mules, a goat and a calf. +These were the visible animals, and anyone who has traveled under +similar conditions will appreciate what is meant when I say there were +myriads of other creatures which made themselves known through other +senses than sight. + +The sheik was seated by the fire, warming himself, and gave us a scant +welcome. We took such a supper as we were able to provide in the +circumstances, and prepared to be as comfortable as possible for the +night. One of the men had been suffering from malaria and so I prepared +for him, and others in the party, a dose of quinine, after the fatigue +and exposure of the day. The sheik immediately asked what it was, and +desired a dose for himself and the other men present. It was the same +principle as that which makes bargain sales attractive. Something is +going cheap or gratis, and so I must have it, whether I need it or not. +Doses were given out to all who wished for it, for a few grains of +quinine seldom go amiss in this country. Conversation was not very +lively, about that smoky fire, as we were tired and there were not many +topics of common interest. At length our cook thought he would +facilitate matters a little. He had lived with foreigners long enough to +know the advantage of appealing to the gallantry of men toward the +ladies, so he said in his most ingratiating tone to the sheik, "The lady +is tired and would like to go to sleep." "Well, let her do so, there is +no objection." With a scarcely restrained chuckle, the cook subsided for +a time and then tried again, saying this time, "The Effendi (gentleman) +is tired and would be much obliged if you would leave so that he may +sleep." This was a different proposition and seemed to meet something of +a response. Shortly, one of those present got up and went over into the +corner of the room where he spread out his cloak and proceeded to his +Moslem devotions. When he was through, another followed him with equal +deliberation, and we began to doubt whether we should sleep before +morning. At length the last one withdrew and we were left to ourselves, +including the attendants and animals mentioned before. We spread our +camp bedsteads in the driest part of the room and made ready to sleep. +It was not long, however, before the rain began to fall, and very soon +the roof began to leak over our heads. We spread rubber coats over +ourselves and raised our umbrellas over our heads and tried to see the +humor of the situation. At early dawn we were up and packed our goods +for a new start. The river had fallen sufficiently in the night to +permit our crossing, though with some difficulty. On the farther bank we +found a party of people waiting until the stream should subside +sufficiently to allow them to cross with their small donkeys. + +Every summer it is necessary to make a change from the heat of the plain +to the more bracing air of the mountains. This is not a vacation, for +the missionary's work goes on with little variation, wherever he may be, +but it involves a change of base and the setting up of a simple +household in different surroundings. In those earlier years the mountain +life was exceedingly simple and the means of transportation most crude. +The village of Hadeth is accessible from Tripoli and in a beautiful +situation, directly opposite the famous grove of Cedars of Lebanon. It +lies on a ridge in the mountains at an elevation of some forty-five +hundred feet above the sea. More than one season have we spent in the +house of old Abu Maroon, the village carpenter. The house consisted of +four large rooms, opening on a long, arched porch which extended the +full length of the house. The floors were of dirt and the walls roughly +plastered with mud. We rented three of these rooms, the owners occupying +the fourth. The partitions between the rooms were made of brushwood, +plastered on both sides with mud. These partitions extended only about +three fourths of the way to the roof, leaving ample space above for +ventilation and conversation. The uncovered twigs and small branches at +the top of these partitions made an attractive, artistic feature, very +pleasing to many of our visitors. One of the regular household duties in +those mountain houses was the renewing of the mud on the floors. Every +week or two it was necessary to remove everything from the rooms, spread +a fresh coat of watery mud over the floor, and polish it off with a +smooth, round stone kept for the purpose. We could then anticipate +reasonable freedom from fleas for another period. + +The only way to reach a summer resort was on horseback, over very rough +bridle paths. All furniture had to be transported by mules in like +manner; folding chairs and tables, camping utensils and necessary +bedding had to be made into suitable bundles; indispensable supplies had +to be provided and mules secured to carry all to the mountains. It was a +long, hard day's ride and the party was sure to be pretty tired the +first night of arrival, but the renewed vigor in the fresh mountain air +gave new strength for the resumption of life on the hotter plain in the +fall and it was well worth all the trouble it cost. + +When it is possible to secure a week or two for real rest, there is no +more delightful way to accomplish the purpose than to make a camp in the +cedar grove. This clump of trees lies in a basin in the higher +mountains, about six thousand feet above sea level. On the east and +north, and somewhat on the south, the mountains rise about this great +amphitheater to about four thousand feet more, being the highest +mountains anywhere in Syria. Large patches of snow lie perpetually on +these highest mountains, but the slopes are bare, having no trees nor +shrubs beyond clumps of thorns and scanty grass where the melting snows +afford some moisture. Flocks of goats range over these barren slopes, +gaining a scanty subsistence. In the days of Solomon and Hiram of Tyre +these mountains were probably covered with cedar forests. Nowadays only +small sections are so covered, though on many of the bare heights the +people still dig up the old stumps of great cedar trees, which they sell +for fuel in the cities. + +On the entire mountain range there is left no single grove of really +ancient cedars, except the one of which I have spoken, known among the +people as the "Cedars of the Lord" or simply as "The Cedars." It is +impossible to speak with certainty of the age of these great trees, but +from what we know of their slow growth and the size of many of the +trunks, it is safe to place their age in the thousands of years. There +are more than four hundred trees in the grove and their reputed sanctity +has protected them from destruction. Some forty years ago one of the +governors of Mount Lebanon had a wall built inclosing the grove and a +guardian appointed. This affords protection from goats, and now a number +of small trees are growing up to perpetuate the grove in generations to +come. If proper steps were taken for reforesting the whole of Lebanon, +there would be a great improvement in many ways, and the agricultural +wealth of the country would be greatly increased. + +To establish a camp among these grand old trees is a most delightful way +to spend a short vacation. The silence of the nights under the spreading +branches; the fragrance of the foliage; the soothing sigh of the breeze +among the tree tops; the beautiful and ever-changing colors on the +higher mountain slopes; the beautiful outlook to the west over the +narrow valley out to the distant Mediterranean; all these influences +tend to quiet the tired nerves, refresh the exhausted brain and draw the +discouraged heart back to quiet and rest in the hand of the Master. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +PERSECUTION + + +Late one afternoon as I was sitting in my study, the doorbell rang and a +young man from Hamath entered, showing every token of great excitement +and fatigue. He had just arrived on the diligence from Homs. As soon as +he was sufficiently composed to give me a clear story, he told me that +the preacher in Hamath had been suddenly arrested by the local +authorities, and after somewhat rough treatment, had been sent under +guard to Damascus, a journey of five days on horseback, as it was before +the era of railroads. So far as I could learn from my informant, the +case was one of flagrant persecution, with no culpable occasion behind +it. The first thing to be done was to quiet the excitement of our +friend, who had brought the word himself rather than trust a written +message. Giving him a chance to rest, I made hasty arrangements for a +night ride to Beirut. The moon would rise about ten o'clock and I +arranged for two riding horses to be ready for us before midnight. We +set out together through the olive orchards under the witchery of the +moonlight. It would have been a pleasant experience under other +circumstances. The road follows the general line of the seashore, at +times close to the breaking waves, and again rising on a rocky bluff at +whose base the blue sea keeps up an incessant murmur. In the silent +night the play of advancing and retreating waves gives a constantly +varied effect of light and sound. + +Before noon we reached Beirut and consulted with various missionary +friends and the consuls of America, England and Germany, who take an +interest in matters affecting the Protestants in Turkey. It was decided +that our Hamath friend should go at once to Damascus, while I awaited +word from him whether my presence was needed. The following day a +telegram agreed upon between us brought the brief message, "Better +come." The old French diligence in those days made the trip across Mount +Lebanon to Damascus in something over thirteen hours, a rather fatiguing +day. On the evening of my arrival we had a conference of the immediate +circle of friends, and the arrested man himself was among us. This was a +thoroughly characteristic incident, under Turkish administration, and so +merits a word of explanation. During the journey from Hamath to +Damascus, friendly relations had been established between the prisoner +and his escort, so that the latter were willing to accommodate their +prisoner in any reasonable measure. It was agreed upon that they should +not announce their arrival nor report to their superiors for a few days +until the prisoner secured a little rest and made arrangements for his +defense. Hence I was informed by our friend himself that he would not +arrive in Damascus "officially" for several days. + +It is needless to go into all the details of this event but the +animating cause of the incident has its humorous as well as its +enlightening side. Some time before, our friend had wished to compliment +the man who was at the time governor of Hamath. Being of a literary turn +he wrote a flattering poem to present on a suitable occasion. +Indiscreetly he worked into his poem serious reflections on another man +who was the governor's enemy and who held a similar post at a distance. +The governor was so pleased that the poem was printed for distribution +and a copy reached the hands of the other man, who was naturally not +pleased with it. In the subsequent shifting of appointments this very +man became governor of Hamath, and found a way to vent his spite at the +poet. + +When looked at from a safe perspective, most of the so-called +persecution in Syria has a predominant touch of humor in it. The most +convenient and suitable place for Tripoli missionary families to spend +their summers is in the village of Hadeth close to the summer seat of +the Maronite patriarch. The whole valley is considered sacred, and hence +strongly guarded against the pollution of any heretical evangelical +influences. For a number of years the ecclesiastics tried, in every way +they could devise, to make us trouble and to prevent our securing houses +in the town, or finding any comfort when we did so. During one summer +they were especially aggressive and seemed determined to be rid of us. +The priests warned everyone against serving us in any way, and against +selling us anything to eat. For a few days our servant had to go to a +neighboring town to buy supplies. The woman who had been doing our +washing sent word she could not come. A special conclave assembled and +summoned our landlord, threatening all sorts of vengeance if he did not +turn us out. They said that a mob would destroy his house over our +heads. The poor old man came to me in great fear, knowing the +unscrupulousness of his opponents, and thinking they might get up some +false accusation against him in the government and cast him into prison +or subject him to needless loss or expense. I assured him they would not +dare touch us or attack his property and that the whole plan was to +frighten us into leaving town, if possible. I told him that we were to +leave on a certain day in October. When the hostile party learned this, +they drew up a pledge that the Americans were to be expelled from town +on the day I had indicated, under a forfeit of fifty pounds from the +landlord to the local church. He was also required to go to the church +and apologize publicly to the people, kiss the floor of the church in +front of the picture of the Virgin, and pay a pound into the treasury. +He was then accepted as in good and regular standing, and all waited for +the appointed day. Unfortunately I did not know of this until it was too +late to change our plans. On the day appointed we left town with our +household goods and as we rode away we heard the church bells ringing +out a peal of rejoicing to celebrate the cleansing of the town. Times +have changed now, and the same priest who led in the opposition then +will call upon us and crack jokes about the times gone by. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +EMIGRATION + + +The period of my life in Syria has witnessed the rapid development of +emigration. In former days there was very little travel among the +people, the marriage of a girl to a man in a neighboring village being a +notable and rather rare occurrence. It was no unusual thing for a person +to spend his whole life without ever going so much as ten miles from his +birthplace. I was entertained for supper one night at the home of a +wealthy Moslem in Homs. The old father of our host was present and I +entered into conversation with him as to the experiences of his long +life. He told me that he had taken four wives, as permitted by Moslem +law. He had twenty sons who had all grown up and married in Homs. He +said that his grandsons numbered about a hundred, all of whom he knew +by face, though he might not be able to fit the right name to each, at +first sight. Knowing him to be quite wealthy, I asked whether he had +traveled much. My first question was whether he had been to the +seashore, some sixty-five miles away at Tripoli. He had never seen the +sea. "Have you been to Damascus?" This would appeal more to a devout +Moslem, since the sea is always associated more or less with the unholy +foreigners of Christian faith, while Damascus is an ancient seat of +Moslem power and glory. "No, I have never seen Damascus," was his +answer. "Well, surely you have been to Hamath?" This is only thirty +miles distant. "No," he said, "I never went to Hamath." "Have you passed +your whole life right here in Homs?" "Once," he said, "I made a journey +out among the Arabs of the desert, to buy sheep." That was the extent of +traveling by an intelligent, well-to-do Moslem of the old school. + +Some thirty or forty years ago a change began among the people and a +few enterprising men sought more favorable opportunities for making a +living in foreign lands. Many of them were successful and encouraged +others to follow them, until now the most profitable business of the +steamships calling at Syrian ports is the carrying of emigrants back and +forth. The weekly exit is numbered by the hundreds, and large numbers +also return from time to time. Few of those who return to Syria remain +for any length of time, for, having once tasted the liberty and +experienced the opportunities of life in western lands, they are no +longer content to fall back into the old, slow, unprofitable methods of +the Orient. A notable change has also come over the character of the +emigration in another respect. At first it was only the more +enterprising, vigorous young men who went abroad to seek their fortunes. +Now whole families go together. Women and girls emigrate as freely as +men. At first it was only Christians who sought to improve their +condition in Christian lands; now Moslems and Nusairiyeh go as freely as +do the Christians. + +At first this emigration was a blind flight from poverty and oppressive +conditions at home, with little understanding of the places to which the +emigrants were going. They placed themselves literally in the hands of +the steamship agents in Marseilles. Taking passage from Syria to +Marseilles, they were shipped on from there in bunches, according to the +advantage of the agent into whose hands they fell. They might be sent to +Argentine, while the friends to whom they were going were in +Massachusetts. They might be sent to Sierra Leone or to Capetown, but it +was all America in their minds. The simple idea of geography in those +days seemed to divide the world into two parts, Syria and America. The +common people know far better now, for they discuss intelligently the +conditions of life and business in the various parts of the world. +Syrians are to be found in every one of the United States, from Maine to +Florida, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific. They are in Alaska, the +Sandwich Islands and the Philippines. They are in every country of +Central and South America, in the West Indies and in all parts of +Africa. In many places they have bought property and made permanent +business arrangements. + +In the early years there were many indications of their lack of +experience in money matters and general business methods. One man in +Brazil had accumulated quite a sum of money and wished to return home. +He did not understand the simplicity of taking a draft on London from +the bank, and was averse to parting with good gold for a mere slip of +paper. He changed all his money into English sovereigns and put the +whole nine hundred into a belt, which he secured around his body under +his clothes. He did not dare remove his treasure day or night during the +weeks of journey, enduring the weight and pressure until he reached +home. He was then taken sick and nearly lost his life from kidney +trouble induced by this folly. + +Another young man in Mexico started home by way of New York. He knew +that English and French gold are current in Syria, and was sure that +American gold was every bit as good. So he exchanged his money for +American gold coin. It came to my attention through a man who came to me +with a twenty-dollar gold piece, and asked what it was worth. When I +told him its real value, he showed such surprise as to arouse my +curiosity. It appeared that this coin, with one like it, had been given +as betrothal token for his daughter. Subsequently the engagement was +broken by the young man and so, in accordance with oriental custom, the +token was forfeited. The father, wishing to realize on the coin, took it +to a local goldsmith who pretended to examine it carefully and then +offered three dollars for it. The father was disappointed at this +appraisal and indignant that his daughter should have been rated so low. +The reaction, when he found the coin to be worth nearly seven times as +much as he had been informed, was almost too much for him. + +One matter connected incidentally with the emigration has been the call +for assistance in handling money for those abroad. In the earlier years +there were no adequate banking facilities outside of Beirut and so the +people began to send back money to their families through the hands of +friends who were merchants living in the various seaport towns. In +several cases unscrupulous men took advantage of the general ignorance +in money matters to secure abnormal profits to themselves, and in more +than one instance, through fraudulent bankruptcy, cheated the people out +of hundreds of pounds. Those who were in any way connected with the +American missionaries began sending their money to us, and at last we +were obliged to conduct quite an extensive banking business. In some +years drafts for several thousand pounds would come to me in sums +ranging from two or three pounds to several hundred at a time. These +were to be paid out to various relatives or to be held on deposit until +the owners' return. On one occasion I opened a registered letter from +Brazil and found in it a draft on London for ten pounds. On reading the +letter I found it to be written by a man I did not know, in behalf of +another stranger, and that the money was to be paid to an entire +stranger in a village I had never seen. It was enough for the sender to +know that his money was in the hands of an American missionary. + +On one occasion a returned emigrant came to my associate with a kerchief +full of silver and gold coins. He asked the privilege of depositing this +with the mission until he needed it. As it was evidently a considerable +sum, he was advised to put it in the bank so as to secure some +interest, but he preferred to feel sure that his money was safe, even +though it earned nothing. Neither did he see any necessity of waiting +until the money should be counted and a regular entry made of it in the +books. It was enough that the missionary had charge of it. This open +account remained with us a number of years and sometimes amounted to two +thousand dollars. + +A man sent me from Venezuela a draft for a hundred pounds, charging me +to let no one know of it, but to hold the money until he should come. +After a long interval I learned that his wife was thinking of going to +join him, since no word had been received. I succeeded in dissuading +her, as I knew he was planning to come home and they might miss each +other in mid-ocean. The return was delayed, and before he arrived his +funds in my hands amounted to six or seven hundred pounds. + +The volume of emigration is growing every year and is taking away the +strength of the land, but better banking facilities have relieved us of +the financial cares formerly carried. The director of the Ottoman Bank +in Tripoli estimates the annual amount of money passing through this one +port in drafts from Syrians abroad as not less than seven hundred +thousand pounds sterling. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +SYRIAN ENTERPRISES + + +The final aim of mission work is the development of a self-supporting, +self-propagating Christian community, and hence the happiest experience +of a missionary's life is connected with the first independent +undertakings of the people whom he serves. In this connection there are +two interesting incidents connected with the life of the evangelical +church in Homs. There are men still living who remember when the gates +in the old city walls were closed every night at sunset, and a belated +traveler had to make himself as safe and comfortable as he could on the +outside until sunrise the next morning. When this old custom passed into +disuse, the city gradually outgrew the old limits and new sections +began to appear outside the old walls. When I first visited Homs, there +was already a large settlement on the north side of the old city, known +as the Hamidiyeh in honor of the reigning sovereign Abd-ul-Hamid. In +this section of the city were a number of evangelicals and it was most +desirable that there should be regular services in that section. Much +difficulty was found in renting suitable quarters, and a change was +necessary every year or two. At length one of the most prosperous men in +the church decided that a permanent chapel must be secured. The people +in that part of the city were poor and could not raise money to buy +property. He decided to set aside a certain sum, and let it accumulate +in his own business until he should have sufficient for the purpose. He +did so, and after some years was able to purchase and remodel a house in +the Hamidiyeh. That little chapel has been in constant use now for many +years for public service on the Sabbath and school during the week, and +is all the result of the generous thought of this one man. + +[Illustration: HOMS Boys' School] + +Early in the present century a zealous young man became the acting +pastor of the Homs church. He was constantly seeking for means to +strengthen the position of the evangelical church in the community and +was soon convinced of the importance of improving the schools, so as to +make them more effective and more attractive. He urged the church +forward in support of his plans, and raised the standard of work in the +schools. He himself was an indefatigable worker and inspired others with +the spirit of service. He gained the confidence of the man referred to +above and secured his help financially when needed. At length it seemed +to this pastor that all their efforts would be in vain unless he could +establish a boarding school for boys. It was not possible for the +mission to help in these plans at that time, and our earnest friend +decided to push ahead alone. A bequest was made to the evangelical +church in Homs by one of her members who died in Egypt. This was a +nucleus, and others were induced to contribute larger and smaller sums. +A beginning was made in temporary quarters in the city itself, while a +fine site was purchased outside for the permanent building. The school +was popular from the start, and, considering the cramped and unsuitable +quarters in which it was conducted, did admirable work. Syrians in Egypt +and America responded well to the appeal to their patriotism. A plain +but commodious building was erected on the new site and the school was +moved to its new home. The school has about four or five acres of land, +lying higher than any other plot near the city. This tract is inclosed +by a simple wall. Within is the two-story stone school building, with +accommodation for something over a hundred boarders, and a schoolroom +which might accommodate nearly twice that number. The kitchen and dining +room are in a simpler building adjacent. Thus has been provided a +convenient, healthful home for the school, with ample playground and +suitable surroundings. + +A Christian community which shows the strength and ability to organize +and conduct such enterprises as these has certainly a degree of vitality +which gives us every confidence in its growth and advance in the future. + +One of the greatest misfortunes, as it appears to me, in the situation +of the subject races in Turkey, is their inability to appreciate the +value and meaning of the word "loyalty." I have failed to find an Arabic +word in common use which conveys the fullness of what we mean by that +word "loyalty," and it seems to be because the people have had no +occasion to express the idea. It is an inestimable loss to a people to +live in such conditions, for there is an inevitable reaction upon +character and a blighting effect on all the relations of life. This +condition of things has grown rapidly in recent years, and most +evidently during the reverses of the Balkan war. It is an everyday +experience, in passing along the street, to hear people exclaiming +against the oppression and injustice of Turkish rule, with the +expression, "Anything would be better than the present condition." Nor +are such expressions any more frequent from Christians than from +Moslems. A member of one of the leading Mohammedan families was recently +quoted to me as saying: "We want an end of this business. We want the +English to come and take charge of us." One day as a merchant was taking +a bag of small coins from his safe to make a payment, he was warned not +to accumulate any large amount of these small coins, as they would +depreciate in value, if anything serious should happen to the Turkish +Government. With a look of disgust, he said, "I would gladly lose them +all and the silver coins, too, to be wholly rid of Turkey, once for +all." On another occasion a simple carriage driver expressed his views +in rough style, by saying, "Sir, the Devil himself would be an +improvement on the present state of things." Then more seriously, he +said, "We know we are not fitted for self-government, and what we want +most of all is England, or if that is impossible, then France." On a +railroad train there was one other passenger in the compartment with me. +While stopping at a station, something occurred to excite my companion +to violent abuse of the government. When he paused I said to him, "Sir, +how is it that you speak so, although you wear the fez?" He turned to me +and spoke most earnestly, but with no trace of excitement, saying, "Yes, +I am a Turk, and I am a Mohammedan, and nevertheless, I have no words +strong enough to express my contempt for the Turkish Government." All +these things are exceedingly sad, for it is an immeasurable loss to a +people if they cannot love and respect those whom they must obey. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +INTERRUPTIONS + + +Our life in Syria has been, on the whole, quiet, but it has not been +without its shadows. There is no life without its sorrows and unexpected +experiences. The comparative isolation of missionary life brings into +very close fellowship those who are cut off from the closer relationship +to friends in the homeland. One Sunday afternoon in the fall of 1906, I +was standing in the back of our chapel, awaiting the closing exercises +of the Sunday school. The telegraph messenger appeared at the door and +handed me a telegram, for which I signed without serious thought. When I +opened the paper and read the wholly unexpected message, all strength +seemed to leave me, and I hastened to a seat, lest I fall to the floor. +The message told of the sudden death of my brother-in-law, Rev. W. K. +Eddy of Sidon, while away from home on a tour. We had considered him one +of the most vigorous men in the mission, for whom years of active +service might be expected, and now in a moment he had been called away, +leaving his family and his work to others. It took time to realize the +situation but some things had to be done at once. I called my servant +and sent him to secure an animal, as I had to start at once for Sidon. +Arrangements had to be made for my absence, and the sad news had to be +broken to the Tripoli circle of friends. By five o'clock I was ready to +start, and I shall never forget that night's ride. The first twenty +miles were covered in the early evening hours, on horseback over a +rough, stony road, while the question kept ringing through my mind, "Why +should this be?" About ten o'clock I reached the carriage road where I +could take a more comfortable and speedy conveyance. All through the +dark night, as I jolted over the road, trying to get a little rest in +preparation for the hard day before me, I could not turn my mind from +the many problems connected with this sad experience. Who would take up +the work thus suddenly dropped? What plan would be made for the family +of growing children? The night was dark, but the dawn was approaching. +The way seemed dark, but the Father's love had brought us to this point +and he would not leave us to walk alone. In the early dawn, I reached +Beirut and found the missionary friends there ready to start for Sidon, +and so we all went on together, reaching the darkened home about noon. +The large assembly hall was filled in the afternoon for the funeral +services, and a great crowd of all classes of people marched out to the +cemetery, where the mortal remains of our loved brother and fellow +worker were laid away. Those are precious spots where we do the last +service on earth for those we have loved, but they are doubly precious +on the mission field where the distance from the great body of family +friends and relatives is so deeply felt. But these occasions strengthen +the ties that bind us to the hearts and lives of those among whom we +live and whom we serve. + +We had scarcely adjusted ourselves to this sorrow when another of the +hard experiences of life came upon us. The season had been one of +exceptionally heavy work and continuous strain, which showed in a +decided break in health. The doctors said work must be dropped at once +and the winter be spent in Egypt, if a more serious break were to be +avoided. It was not exactly a pleasure excursion on which we started +during the Christmas holidays. There was no time to write ahead and make +inquiries or arrangements, so we set out to a strange land among +strangers, in search of health. Finding no place which seemed suitable +in lower Egypt, we decided to go up the river to Assiyut, and wrote a +letter to Dr. Alexander, president of the United Presbyterian College +at that place. We had no personal acquaintance and no claim upon him, +but he was a missionary, and that was enough. + +It was a long ride and Egyptian railroads are nothing if not dusty. Our +spirits had not begun to rise yet, and we felt rather tired and wholly +disreputable in appearance, when we left the train at Assiyut, ready to +ask our way to the Greek hotel. But before we had a chance to do +anything, we saw a bright, cheery face, bearing an evident welcome, and +a hearty voice assuring us that the owner was Dr. Alexander and that he +had come to take us in charge. It was the first encouraging incident, +and lifted a weight from us at once. As we walked along he told us they +had held a conference over our case, and, having decided that we could +not be comfortable in the hotel, had placed at our disposal a rest room +provided in the hospital for members of their own mission or other +foreigners who needed rest and medical attention. A more perfect +provision for our need could not have been devised. We enjoyed the +companionship of the corps of foreign nurses, sharing their table and +home life. We had the constant companionship as well as the professional +services of the four medical missionaries. Is it a wonder that I began +to gain at once? After nine weeks we returned to our work, made over and +with a new lease of life, a new sense of the solidarity of Christian +fellowship, and a new realization of the heavenly Father's tender care. + +Such experiences as that winter at Assiyut show how entirely +denominational differences are forgotten on the mission field. In social +intercourse, in the prayer circle, in discussion of mission problems, in +the church service, in the pulpit, there was never anything to remind us +that we were only Presbyterians while our kind hosts were United +Presbyterians. It was a delightful opportunity for the cultivation of +fellowship, and for the observation of other forms and methods of +mission work, under conditions very different from ours in Syria. The +work in Egypt is relieved from many of the problems so insistent in +Turkey. There is no hostile government, always suspicious of every move +made by a foreigner. There is no such inefficiency in the government as +makes the lives of Turkish subjects always insecure and travel +dangerous. But, on the other hand, the climatic conditions in Egypt are +far more trying than in Syria, as the heat is extremely enervating for +most of the year. These climatic conditions undoubtedly account to some +extent for the less virile, independent character of the people. But +whatever the differences in climate, whatever the differences in the +character of the people, whatever the differences in governmental +relations, we came back from Egypt more than ever impressed with the +fact that the conflict is one, the object aimed at is one, and the body +of workers is one, under the direction of our one Lord and Master. + +In 1911 there came another break in the routine life of the field, but +with no such sorrow in it as in the former incidents. The second +Conference for Workers in Moslem Lands met in Lucknow in January 1911 +and our mission chose me as its delegate to that conference. The journey +through the Suez Canal and down the Red Sea and across the Arabian Sea +to Bombay was one of the experiences of life never to be forgotten. +There were enough of us going on the same journey to form a little group +of sympathetic companions and we had many an opportunity at table and on +deck to talk over the matters connected with our life work. + +The contrasts in the streets of Bombay are similar to those seen in all +the changing Orient, but with characteristic differences calculated to +catch the eye of one accustomed to the nearer East. Nowhere in Turkey do +you find such broad, magnificent, paved thoroughfares as those in +Bombay, and yet, beside the track of the electric trolley, you see a +crude cart jogging along behind the humpbacked bullock. On the pavements +you see elaborately dressed ladies from Europe, or from the wealthy +Parsee families, with their Paris gowns and modern hats, and almost at +their elbows the dark-skinned members of the sweeper caste, clad in a +simple loin cloth. You step out of the finely appointed barber shop in +your modern hotel, with its polite, English-speaking attendant, to see +by the roadside a group of swarthy Indians, crouching on the ground, as +one of their number shaves the crowns of their heads. + +The tourist in Galilee in the spring of the year is impressed by the +variety and brilliancy of color all about him in the wild flowers of the +fields. As we walked the streets of Bombay, the same impression was made +upon us by the brightness and variety in the headdress of the men. If +there is any color known to the dyers' art not found among the turbans +of Bombay it is merely because no samples have as yet been sent there. +Every shape as well as every shade is found, and it would almost seem as +if the excessive attention paid to the head covering had exhausted the +energy of the people, leaving no desire or ability to devise any +covering for the rest of the body. A stranger may wonder also at first +why everyone seems to have forgotten to wash his face. Those curious +blotches of varicolored clay on the forehead are not accidental nor an +indication of carelessness to one's personal appearance. On the +contrary, they indicate fidelity to religious duty and reveal to the +initiated the special temple most recently visited by the devout +worshiper. For a transient visitor, this variety and intricacy are +puzzling, but to the initiated everything has its meaning and the +varieties of headdress tell the tale of religious affiliation and caste +gradation. + +Comfortable train service carried us quickly to the north, giving us +glimpses of Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital, with its reminders of the +mutiny; and Agra with its matchless architectural gem, the Taj Mahal. We +reached Agra at the close of the day, and after locating ourselves at +the hotel, set out on foot to have our first glimpse of the Taj by +moonlight. No matter what one may have read of this wonderful building, +no matter what pictures or models one may have seen, I have yet to meet +a person who has not been most deeply impressed by the first vision of +the reality. The approach through the dark foliage of the quiet garden +gives a chance for the impressive grandeur of the marble structure to +fix itself in the visitor's mind. By the time he enters the spacious +archway, he has begun to appreciate the perfection of the curves, the +nobility of the dimensions, the purity of the white marble and the +graceful dignity of the whole combination. The beautifully inlaid black +lettering from the Koran follows the curves of the lofty arch overhead, +adding a sense of sacredness to the entrance. And yet, when one is +inside, he almost forgets the impressions received without. In place of +stateliness and grandeur, we find here a beauty of finish and exactness +of detail which surpass all the more massive qualities of the exterior. +The central tomb is surrounded by a marble screen carved with a delicacy +that makes one forget the marble and think he sees before him the most +perfect and delicate lace veil. The pillars and panels of the screen, +the inner walls of the building, as well as the sides of the tomb +itself, are decorated with the most beautifully inlaid work of vines and +wreaths of flowers represented in their natural colors, in the most +delicate shades of precious stone. One wonders to find such exquisite +work anywhere and the wonder increases when one realizes that this is +not the product of modern skill and patience, but that it has stood +here, from the days of the Mogul Empire, when we consider that India was +a land of barbarians. And more than this is to follow, for this +wonderful mausoleum was erected at fabulous cost by a Moslem ruler, in +memory of his wife. + +We were not in India merely as sightseers. After a night ride on the +train we reached Lahore in the early morning and at the station received +the hearty welcome of J. C. R. Ewing, D.D., president of Forman +Christian College. Again in northern India we had the loving handclasp +of a fellow missionary and the cordial welcome to a missionary home. The +short visit there could give us but a faint impression of what that +college is doing for the Punjab and what a position and influence the +missionaries have among the people of every class, whether Indian or +British. Never did I have such a vivid impression of the awful +experiences of the mutiny, or the wonderful changes wrought by British +rule in India, as when I stood on some of the memorable spots at +Cawnpore and Lucknow, and reviewed the record of treachery and loyalty, +cowardice and bravery, cruelty and gallantry, which were developed in +the awful experiences of the Mutiny. To-day, no matter what may be the +restlessness and uncertainty of the situation, India is a united +country, and not a medley of hostile principalities and warring +kingdoms. Railroads cover the land in every direction with an efficient +service. Perfect carriage roads make the land a paradise for motor cars +and bicycles. Military encampments near all the large cities assure +security of life and property. Schools and colleges are extending +knowledge in every direction. Wealth is taking place of poverty, +knowledge of ignorance, light of darkness, and religion is coming into +its own as a real force in human life and no longer as merely a badge of +faction or clan. + +The gathering at Lucknow was notable. Delegates of many nationalities +gathered in that hall. Workers in many lands and in widely differing +conditions, we came together for a common purpose. Members of many +Christian denominations, we united in the worship of one Master. +Differences were forgotten in a deeper union. Whatever allegiance we +owed to earthly sovereigns, we met as children of the heavenly King. +Whatever may have been the language of our ordinary service, here we had +but one language--that of loving fellowship. We were members of separate +bands of commissioners, coming together at the feet of our Leader to ask +for fuller instructions in the pursuit of his work. + +The keynote of the Lucknow Conference was to win the Moslem world by +love, the love of Christ incarnate in his messenger. It is one of the +most hopeful signs in the advancement of the kingdom that the attractive +power of love is more prominent than the overwhelming power of argument. +It is a great help to the right placing of this emphasis that workers in +many lands, of many nations, of many denominations, are drawing nearer +together and working more in harmony. I returned from India, rejoicing +in all I had seen of God's power and blessing in that land, but with a +deeper conviction that the work in India, in China, in Africa, in Syria +is all one work, under one Master. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +OUR SUPPORTERS + + +One of the brightest things in the missionary's happy lot is the +beautiful relation existing between those on the field and those whom +they represent in the homeland. Many years ago we were calling, one +evening, upon our landlord in Tripoli. The eldest son had recently +returned from America, and in the course of conversation the father +asked from what part of the United States we came, in order to see +whether his son had been in the same vicinity. The son at once replied: +"I know the name of the place, but I do not know in what state it is. +They come from Private Funds." We could not think at first what he +meant, but then discovered that he had found a missionary report among +some old magazines thrown out from the house. In this he had seen our +names in a list of missionaries, giving the name of the society by which +each was supported. Seeing "Private Funds" opposite our names, he +thought it must be the name of the town from which we came, though, as +he said, he did not know in what state it was located. A little +knowledge is truly a dangerous thing. + +The relation indicated by those words, which has subsisted for +twenty-five years, has been most happy. When I was a senior in the +seminary and had already made my application to the Foreign Board, I +received a letter from Mr. George D. Dayton of Minnesota. He was the son +of an elder in my father's old church in Geneva, only a few years older +than I, but already a prosperous business man whose generosity in the +Lord's work was becoming well known. He urged upon me the need and +opportunity in the home mission field of the growing northwest. I +answered him, explaining as fully as I could, the reasons that had led +me to decide that my life should be devoted to another field, realizing +that my answer would be a disappointment to him and might cause some +weakening of the ties of friendship already strong between us. + +The next that I heard of the subject was that Mr. Dayton had written to +the Foreign Board, assuming our support as the personal representatives +of his family in the foreign field. Thus, instead of weakening our +friendship, my choice was the beginning of a closer and warmer relation +than ever. It has always been recognized as a family matter, and I shall +never forget the comfort and strength that came to us in one of the +early years through a letter from Mr. Dayton. It was written on Sunday +afternoon, and contained words to this effect: "To-day was the time +appointed for the annual offering for foreign missions in our church. +Before going to church I gathered the family together and talked to the +children about you as our representatives in Syria. Then we united in +prayer at the family altar for God's blessing on you. At church I placed +in the collection my check for the amount I have pledged to the Board +for your support." Through letters and visits in the home when on +furlough, this delightful relation has grown more and more precious as +the years have passed, and it has been a pleasure to acknowledge that we +come from Private Funds, which, we are sure, is situated in the State of +Felicity, in the United States of Brotherly Love. + +It has been said that a missionary furlough is an excellent thing if it +is not needed too urgently. We have had two most thoroughly enjoyable +furloughs in the homeland, during our missionary life. Each visit to +America has tended to refresh and invigorate us most admirably for a new +period of service and we have added many to the circle of friends who +encourage us in our work and keep vigorous the connecting link with the +workers at home. The periods of our absence from America have had a +curious coincidence with the change in methods of locomotion in America. +When we first came to Syria in 1888, the horse car was still supreme in +American cities. Experimental lines of electric trolleys were being +tried in certain places, but I had never seen an electric car. When we +returned to America in 1897, we found the trolley in all the cities, and +I remember being disturbed, the first Sunday in Philadelphia, by a +strange whirring sound during the morning service. I could think of no +explanation except the weird creaking of the great water wheels in +Hamath, but there were no such waterworks in Philadelphia. I soon became +familiar with the hum of the trolley. + +During that first furlough, there was much written in the magazines +about automobiles, and people were wondering whether the auto would +really be practicable, but I did not see a machine. Our first sight of +an auto was in Cairo, in Egypt. We reached America on our second +furlough in 1908, and the first day on shore gave us our first ride in +an auto, which we found rapidly taking a recognized place in American +everyday life. Again the magazines had much to say about the aëroplane, +but we did not see one while in America. My first sight of a human flyer +was at Allahabad, in India. It looks now as if a ride in an aëroplane +might not be a strange experience in our third furlough. + +The meeting of earnest Christian workers all over the land, in +conventions and missionary meetings, is a real refreshment physically +and spiritually. So long as the missionary's health is good, he finds it +a joy to speak for the cause and mingle with the workers at home. I +traveled a good many miles to meet appointments on each furlough. I +spoke on many platforms, and the cordial welcome extended and the close +attention paid to the message were an ample reward for whatever there +was of fatigue in the service. Many times I felt humiliated by what +seemed to me the extreme and unmerited deference paid to us, simply +because we were foreign missionaries. So far as Syria is concerned, the +missionary of to-day asks for no sympathy on the score of physical +privations. We are in close touch with European and American +civilization. We can obtain whatever is necessary for physical wellbeing +and comfort. The climate is not excessively enervating and we can have +good homes. There are many things that are trying in the life of a +missionary, but no more so than in the lives of many workers in the +homeland. + +The isolation from friends and relatives is often one of the most trying +features of missionary life. When sickness or death enter the family +circle far away, it is not easy to think of the miles of restless ocean +that lie between us and them. The whole unchristian, unsympathetic +atmosphere makes life hard at times, but the compensations are so many +that it makes one ashamed to be held up as a model of self-sacrifice. +The missionary feels, as the earnest worker at home feels, and as Paul +felt years ago, when he said, "The love of Christ constraineth us." + +The first home-going was peculiarly happy, for in neither of the two +family circles had there been any break. The only changes had come by +marriage and birth. The circles were expanding, and there was no place +vacated during the period of our absence. The second going was very +different in this respect. Many who had been vigorous were feeble. Many +who had bidden us a bright farewell were not present to welcome us on +our return. Children had become men and women. There were wrinkles on +the faces and gray hair on the heads of those whom we had expected to +find still as young as we were. But, somehow, it began to dawn on us +that we ourselves were no longer counted among the young folks in the +church. + +The general recollection of those two furloughs is one of bright smiles +and cheery welcomes, helpful handclasps and a joyous fellowship. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +PERSONAL FRIENDS + + +It was one of the most delightful phases of our experience in charge of +the boys' school to find how closely the ties of love to the boys bound +them to our hearts, and to realize that with many of them it was no mere +oriental compliment when they called us their father and mother. There +are many of those lads, now growing to manhood, in whose successes we +take a parental pride, and for whose growth in all that is good and true +we pray, with parental earnestness. Among the many preachers and +teachers in all the churches and schools, we count many as most truly +our brethren and fellow workers for the Master. There are very many +Syrians in all parts of America, as well as in this land, of whom we +think in terms of truest brotherhood. It is with no sense of +disparagement to the multitude that I have selected three of the elders +in our churches for special mention. It has seemed to me, as I look back +over their lives, that there are some specially suggestive elements in +the way the Lord has led them and blessed them, which are worthy of +special note. At the same time these experiences have brought all three +into specially close relations with myself personally. I shall mention +them in the order of the commencement of my acquaintance with them. + +In 1885, before I entered the mission, I was for a few months in Syria, +merely as a visitor. It happened that the College in Beirut was +short-handed that year, and in need of an additional teacher. Dr. Bliss +asked me to help them out and so I became for two months a member of the +teaching force in the preparatory department. During this time I made +the acquaintance of a lad in the senior class of that department, named +Towfik Sallum. He was a quiet, studious lad, who made no trouble and was +always busy with his books or seeking to increase his English +vocabulary. In the brief time of my remaining in the college, my +acquaintance was slight and the memory of this boy would have passed +from my mind, had there been no subsequent association. When I became a +member of the Tripoli Station and made the acquaintance of the various +workers in the field, I found that this lad was the brother of the +preacher in Hamath. Their father had been the first preacher in that +church, and upon his death the eldest son had succeeded to his father's +position in the church, as well as to the parental responsibility for +the care and training of his younger brothers. Towfik spent some years +in the service of the mission as teacher, in intervals of his college +course. In 1892 he was graduated with honor, and in 1896 took his degree +in medicine also. He settled at once in Hamath, where he was well known +personally, and where his family associations made a valuable +professional asset. The conditions of life in ancient Hamath are +exceedingly primitive and only a small portion of the population have +any intelligent appreciation of the value of modern medicine. +Perseverance and tact won their way and a valuable practice was built +up. With increasing years and widening acquaintance, the doctor became +generally known, universally trusted, and highly respected in government +circles as well as among the people. In case the governor wished a +reliable report on any case of attack or murder, he was sure to send Dr. +Sallum to investigate. He was to be trusted to tell the truth. + +When the new constitution was promulgated in 1908, it was provided that +all religious sects were to be entitled to representation in the local +administrative courts in rotation, irrespective of the size of those +bodies. Formerly only the largest of the Christian sects had been +allowed representation. This provision gave the Protestants a right to +civil equality and they put forward Dr. Sallum as their representative. +He was accepted, and served most creditably for the term of two years. +It was then the turn of the Catholic sect to have a representative, and +the heads of the various bodies were summoned by the governor to arrange +for the choice of the new member. The governor explained the situation +and said that as the Protestants had held the office for two years, it +was now the right of the Catholics to choose a representative to succeed +the Protestant member. Then, turning to the Catholic priest, he said, +"If you have a candidate who is more capable than Dr. Sallum or who is +his equal, we shall be glad to welcome him, but if not, I should advise +you to ask him to continue in office, acting now as representative of +the Catholics." The priest replied most cordially that his sect would be +delighted to be represented by Dr. Sallum, if he would consent. In this +way the doctor has become practically a permanent member of the +governor's council, acting alternately for the Protestants and the +Catholics. At the same time the proud member of the large Greek Orthodox +sect has to give place every two years to the member chosen by the +Jacobite church. + +In 1892 I was in Homs for the administration of the sacraments. Among +those who came in on Saturday evening was Mr. Rafool Nasser, a young man +who had not been long identified with the Protestant church. He told me +that he wished to have his little girl baptized the next day. He had +been married for several years and this was the first child, so the +occasion was one of more than usual joy. The next morning, before the +service began, I saw Mr. Nasser come in and take a seat quite at the +back of the church, contrary to his usual custom. He seemed depressed +and I wondered what had occurred. When the time came for baptisms he +made no move to come forward and so I proceeded with the children who +were presented. At the close of the service I inquired into the matter, +and learned that Mr. Nasser had informed his wife the evening before +that the little girl was to be baptized the next day. His wife then +informed him that she had already had the child baptized secretly by the +priest. This explained the depression I had noticed in the father's +face. Two years later the parents stood together while I baptized the +second child, and all the others have been presented without question +for the rite of baptism. This was the beginning of my acquaintance with +Mr. Nasser, with whom I have been somewhat intimate in recent years. + +He was a man of prominent family in Homs and has been highly prospered +in business, having become one of the most substantial men of the city. +Most of the successful men of Homs owe their prosperity to business +conducted in Egypt. They spend the winters in Egypt, advancing money to +the peasants on their cotton crops and also furnishing them certain +classes of imported goods on credit. It has been a profitable business, +even to those who have not been led away by the temptation of avarice to +impose on the simplicity of the Egyptian peasant. On one occasion I was +talking to Mr. Nasser about the high standards of morality obligatory on +the true Christian merchant. He then told me the following incident in +the simplest manner. As a young man he started with his cousin on a very +small capital. They invested their cash capital in stock for their +little store, purchasing so far as they could on credit. Mr. Nasser +returned to Homs, leaving his cousin in charge of the business in Egypt. +Scarcely had he reached home when word came of the complete destruction +of their store and all its contents by fire. It was a heavy blow for the +young men, and the first impulse was to go through bankruptcy, settle up +as well as they could and give up the enterprise. Friends and creditors +came to their help and volunteered to scale down their claims and +furnish new capital for the two men to start again. They were prospered +from the beginning. After some years Mr. Rafool Nasser decided that he +was unwilling to have the friends who were so kind to him suffer from +the old loss. He wrote to his cousin, saying that he had no wish to +control his partner's action, but asking him to pay off his share of +those old losses carried by their friends after the fire, and charge the +amount against his personal account. The cousin wrote back, "Whatever +you do, I shall do also." In the light of this incident, will anyone say +that commercial honor is confined to the West? + +There was a long period of hesitation, after Mr. Nasser was convinced +intellectually of the truth of the evangelical faith, before he joined +the Church. He has explained this to me in the following way: He knew +that if he gave in his adherence to the Protestant doctrine, his +conscience would require him to give far more of his possessions than he +had been accustomed to do in the Greek church. It took a long time to +bring his will to yield. In fact, his head was reached before his purse +was opened. He gave up the conflict at last and then said, in closing +the account of his experience, "I've gotten way beyond that now, for I +have learned the joy of giving." He is not a millionaire, but the Lord +has blessed him with considerable property, and he recognizes his +position as that of steward. He has been the leading spirit in the +enterprises of the Homs church, spoken of in another place. + +About the end of the year 1895, I was sitting one evening in my study +when the bell rang, and one of my neighbors, Mr. Yusuf Faris, entered. +He laid on my desk a bundle of Turkish silver dollars, amounting to some +thirty dollars American money. He said he had been looking over his +accounts for the year and found this balance in his tithe account, and +so he wished me to use it for him in a way that he indicated, in the +furtherance of the Lord's business. This was a little matter, but it was +a true index to the man. A few years previous to this he had moved to +the city from a neighboring village. Among his motives for this move was +to avoid being forced into a political position he felt to be +inconsistent with his new position as a Protestant Christian. He decided +to open a dry-goods store in the city, but was unwilling to conduct +business in the ordinary way of the country. He rented a very small shop +and brought his stock of goods from Beirut. He decided upon a fair +profit, and set his price on the goods. People were not accustomed to +this method and so were slow to buy from the new shop. When they found +him unvarying in his prices, they went away to buy elsewhere, getting, +perhaps, an inferior article at a slightly lower price. Mr. Faris had +his full share of determination and was not to be turned back from the +course upon which he had decided. He had an unfailingly pleasant manner +with everyone, and showed no resentment at those who bought elsewhere. +For months the sales in this little shop were not enough to pay the +rent, but there was no change of policy. Gradually people began to +compare more carefully and discovered that in no case were they able to +buy the same quality of goods elsewhere for less than Mr. Faris' first +price. They began to realize that it was a distinct saving of time and +temper to avoid the long haggling over prices to which they had been +accustomed. By degrees they began to buy from Mr. Faris, and it was not +long before some of the country shopkeepers would come to him with a +list of goods and ask to have them put up without even asking the +prices. Business grew, a larger shop was necessary, two shops, three +shops, until at present his goods fill three large storerooms, while a +fourth is necessary for his office and bookkeeping. Two months seldom +pass, and often less than a month, between trips to Beirut for fresh +goods, and he and his three grown sons are kept busy handling the +undertaking. + +In every good enterprise, in Tripoli, or in presbytery, Mr. Yusuf Faris +is a leader, with clear advice and generous subscriptions. When the home +mission work of the presbytery was organized, he was one of the leaders, +and has continued to be the main support of the work. When the plans for +the Tripoli Boys' School were under consideration and there was some +danger that lack of money and other considerations might necessitate the +removal of the school from Tripoli, Mr. Faris and his sons came forward +with a generous offer of financial help, during a period of years +aggregating nearly eighteen hundred dollars. This made him the third +largest individual donor and we were glad to place his picture among +those on the wall of the school reception room. In all the intercourse +of these years, while watching the growth and development of character +in this man, there has grown in my own heart a strength of personal +attachment such as I have seldom felt for any other in America or in +Syria. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL + + +The one enterprise which stands out most conspicuously in our life in +Syria and which has absorbed more of our thought and activity than any +other, is the boarding school for boys in Tripoli. In the earlier years +of our work in Tripoli field, I found an important item to be the +selection of promising candidates from the pupils in the village schools +for further education in one of the mission boarding schools. We were +anxious to encourage the higher education of boys, for in this respect +as in many others, north Syria is more backward than other parts of the +country. Means of communication were poor and it was not an easy thing +for people to send their children to a distance of four or five days' +travel. We used every means at our disposal to persuade reluctant +parents, offering free tuition and sometimes traveling expenses and help +with clothing. By all these means we could gather, from the whole +territory, a dozen, or fifteen, or, at most, twenty boys, whose parents +were willing to send them to school. + +[Illustration: TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL _First Home_] + +[Illustration: TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL _Second Home_] + +But emigration to America gradually opened the eyes of the people to the +commercial advantages of education. Ignorant parents who had gone abroad +began to send back money, with urgent instructions to put their boys in +the American schools. We found the number of applicants increasing and a +new willingness to pay, in part at least, for the education. Instead of +a dozen, we had sixty or more to provide for and the tide was rising. +Conditions were the same elsewhere and it was not easy for the other +schools to receive this larger number from our district. Why, then, +should our boys go so far from home? + +The eagerness of some of these lads to gain an education went to our +hearts, and the hardest thing we had to do was to refuse an earnest +pleader for whom we had no place left. One day in Homs a young man came +to me, pleading for a place in Sidon. He was making his own living as an +artisan, and had only a simple education. I wished to test his pluck and +pointed out all the difficulties in the way of one in his circumstances. +He had thought it all out and said he could work at his trade in the +summer vacations and earn enough for his clothing. But it was a five +days' journey to Sidon, and the cost of the journey must be provided for +in some way. There was not a moment's hesitation as he said, "I'll +walk." And he did walk, showing a manly contempt for obstacles in the +way of gaining an education. + +This growing demand for an education such as our American schools give, +with the increasing ability of many to pay the cost, seemed a clear call +for action. Our mission had been criticized for putting too much energy +and money into education, so it seemed a chance at the same time to take +a step in advance in the line of self-support. I did not wish to go +before the mission with my proposition until I had it well supported. +For this reason I wrote to Mr. George D. Dayton who has supported us +through all our missionary life, and laid the matter before him, making +two distinct requests. If such a school were to be a success, it must +have its own permanent premises, especially adapted to its use, and I +asked whether he would help us to secure this for the school. It did not +seem wise to wait however for the accomplishment of this purpose to open +the school. I was confident, myself, that the school could be made +self-supporting if the premises were provided, but I wished a guarantee +to lay before the mission, and so asked Mr. Dayton to underwrite the +enterprise to the extent of three hundred dollars a year, in case of a +deficit. He responded promptly, acceding to both requests. I was ready +then to go before the mission. Our proposition called for two things +from the Board, the addition of a missionary to our Tripoli station and +provision of rent for premises in which to open the school temporarily. +Both requests were granted and we were authorized to go ahead, even +before receiving our additional missionary. + +Ten years after opening the school, owing to removals and delay for +language study, the whole work of the station, with the addition of the +school, still rests on the shoulders of two men, who live in hope of +having their new associate, promised ten years ago. It has been like the +pursuit of a mirage or the fatuous end of the rainbow. More than once we +have given a sigh of satisfaction and said, "Well, next year, or at +latest, the year after, we shall be able to settle down to normal lines +and really do our work right." An emergency has always arisen somewhere, +our pleasant dreams have faded away, and we have settled down again to +try to carry the extra load; but each time this is done, the weight +seems to press more heavily and a sense of discouragement steals into +the tired heart. + +We were ready to begin school in 1903 and had laid in some supplies for +the coming year, when cholera appeared in the land, interfering with all +lines of travel and communication. It was decided to postpone the +opening until the next year and special plans for temporary work were +made for the various teachers. In October 1904 the Tripoli Boys' School +opened its doors, and there was every indication of hearty support. We +had planned to begin on a very small scale with only twenty boarders. We +had rented a house in which the boys were to sleep and study, the +kitchen and dining room being in the basement. Before the day of opening +we had thirty-two insistent applicants and wanted very much to receive +them all. Rooms were rented across the street for study and recitation +purposes, releasing for a dormitory the large room before assigned to +study. This, with extra crowding of the beds, made room, and the whole +number were admitted. The beds were very crude, being merely boards laid +across rude iron supports. Everything was as simple as possible. + +We were all inexperienced in school administration and had about as much +to learn as did the boys, but that first year was a year of real +delight. The school was small and the family feeling was encouraged in +every way. Every Sunday evening the boys came to our home for a social +sing, and we learned that the neighbors looked forward to the enjoyment +of the volume of boyish voices that rang out on the evening air. In the +middle of the year it was possible to transfer the school to much more +commodious quarters, where all school and household functions could be +under one roof. The most satisfactory feature, perhaps, was the +financial outcome. When the books were closed, at the end of the year, +there was no deficit to be provided for, and so our highest +anticipations seemed to be justified. This has continued to be the +normal record of the school, the current income providing for the +current expense, excepting the item of rent. The second year we were +able to start in with American desks, and iron beds in the dormitories, +and had an enrollment of sixty pupils. + +A detailed history of the school would make this chapter too long, but +its growth and success have meant a great deal to us in our missionary +life. In 1909, when we returned from our second furlough, we had a +sufficient building fund to justify definite plans for the permanent +home of the school. It was not easy to decide on the best location. +Every place suggested had advantages and disadvantages. We could not +visit any locality in the most casual way without very largely +increasing the value of land in the vicinity. We looked at land near +the sea, in the gardens, on each side of the city, but gradually all +minds turned to an olive orchard on the brow of the hill just north of +the city. It might not be possible to purchase it, but we all agreed +that it was the place we wanted, if it could be obtained. Inquiry +revealed the fact that this piece of property belonged to a family of +brothers and sisters who held it as joint heritage from their father. +One of the brothers got the whole into his possession, excepting the +share of one sister, whose claim was something less than one-twelfth. +Her husband was an avaricious fellow who thought he could hold us up for +whatever he might demand. We purchased the remainder of the property, +but could do nothing toward building until our partner's share should be +set off and a legal division made. We proposed every possible division +but nothing was acceptable. We tried the courts and found it almost as +hopeless as Dickens' picture of chancery. Finally an amicable +adjudication and division out of court was arranged by common friends. +We went to the hill with professional measurers and proceeded to lay off +our partner's portion. When he was convinced that we would prefer to +give him at the north end, he promptly announced that he would take the +south part, which was after all much to our advantage. Then the boundary +was laid out very exactly, giving him his full share. After the peg had +been carefully set, his son petulantly moved it a foot or more farther +on our side, evidently intending to irritate us into a refusal of the +division. We consented, however, the division wall was erected, the +legal papers drawn up and our property was secured. + +The next step was to obtain a building permit from the government. Every +official is suspicious of every other, and each is watching for a chance +to enter a complaint against the other. From one office we went to +another, with favorable reports from the city engineer, but nothing was +accomplished. There seemed to be no valid objection anywhere, and we +were assured that the permit would be sent back as soon as our petition +reached Constantinople. After long waiting, instead of the permit there +came back another series of inquiries on points already fully explained. +Preliminary work on cisterns, foundations and preparation of stone was +in full progress, but the winter passed and no permit was received. At +last a new governor came to Tripoli who for some reason took a personal +interest in bringing the matter to a conclusion. He sent vigorous +letters and telegrams to Constantinople and in due time the permit was +issued, and at the end of May 1912, work was begun on the building +proper. Every means was used to push work forward as fast as possible, +through the summer and fall, so as to have the roof on before the rains +came. The walls were completed, the roof timbers in place, but where +were the tiles? These had been ordered long in advance, and were known +to be on the way. Just at this unfortunate moment war between Turkey and +Greece was declared and it appeared that our tiles were coming in a +Greek steamer, which could not now approach a Turkish port. The fall +rains came down on our roofless building and it was not until January +that the tiles were received. When they arrived, there was great +rejoicing. The workmen all left their tools to help unload the wagons. +The schoolboys went up on the hill and, forming lines from the ground to +the roof of the building, passed up the tiles from hand to hand with +shouts and songs of joy. No damage had been done the building, since the +rains tended to set the stone walls and cement flooring more perfectly, +but the plastering and carpenter work for the interior were delayed, and +the precious rain water for the cisterns was lost. + +After the roof was finished, work progressed rapidly and the utility and +beauty of the building developed every day more and more clearly. When +Easter vacation came everything was ready, and in the absence of the +boys, the school furniture was moved up to the new building so that all +was in good order when vacation was over. The new term opened in the new +home. + +On May 21, 1913, the day was given over to the dedication of the new +building, and a happier day than that has not come in the history of the +school. In the forenoon, there were races and athletic sports, with a +football game on the playground behind the building. In the afternoon, +hosts of friends and neighbors inspected the building and grounds, and +at four o'clock the Assembly Hall was crowded with the pupils and their +friends. On the platform sat the governor and president of the +municipality, with the missionaries and teachers. The boys sang heartily +their songs of welcome and a special dedication hymn written for the +occasion from the text, "Except Jehovah build the house, they labor in +vain that build it." Their voices rang out especially as their +handkerchiefs waved in their own school song in honor of T. B. S. + +This building is rich in significance, for it is a memorial throughout. +The main fund was raised in honor of my father, and so the building is +to be known as the Henry A. Nelson Memorial. Smaller sums were given as +special memorials to relatives of the givers, and the bell in the tower +was given by parents of a young man, their only son, who was called to +the heavenly home just before his twenty-first birthday. Those parents +have the comfort of feeling that their son's voice is still calling in +the tones of that bell to the lads of Syria, and so still serving the +Master. + +Our rejoicing in the new building was great, but not complete. With all +our efforts it was not possible to finish the top story of the building, +and the friends of the school will have plenty of opportunity to help us +improve and increase our facilities in the service of the youth of north +Syria. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +MOVING + + +In 1910 the Syria mission decided upon an advance. The constitution had +been declared in Turkey and everyone hoped that a new era had really +begun for the people of the empire. Whatever might be the political +results, there were clear signs of industrial improvement. The German +railroad was being pushed toward Bagdad. Work was progressing rapidly on +the line from Tripoli to Homs. There could be but little doubt that the +importance of Homs as a commercial center would be greatly enhanced in +the near future. The strong evangelical community had been urgent for +years that a missionary family live in Homs. This was finally decided +upon and the choice of the mission fell on us. There are very few houses +for rent in Homs, and hence it seemed necessary to plan for a +missionary residence as soon as possible. An appropriation was made from +the Kennedy bequest for this purpose, and a piece of land was acquired +from the management of the Syrian Evangelical Boarding School. + +[Illustration: HOMS] + +[Illustration: HEATHEN TEMPLE AND MOUNT HERMON] + +Moving in Syria is a different proposition from what it is in America. +There are no professional packers. The missionary must do his own +packing, if he would avoid excessive breakage. He must keep an eye on +the porters as they put his goods in the wagons. He must oversee the +freight men as they stow away the goods in the cars. At the Homs end of +the line every piece had to be carried to its destination on the back of +a donkey or a mule. It was no easy matter to balance some of the large +boxes on the insecure saddles, but it was all accomplished with time and +patience, with very little injury. + +We secured a little house in the city for six months, which could be +occupied while the new house was in process of erection. It was a +curious little place but the owner was very proud of it. There was a +minaret directly across the narrow street, so we had the call to prayer +almost over our heads five times a day. The section of the city was +known as the Grass Market, because it was occupied largely by +greengrocers. We were awakened early every morning by the merchants +calling their wares and all day long could hear cries like this: "Oh, +plums, O generous one, a penny a pound: health and strength come from +God, Oh, plums, Oh, plums." The woodwork and windows of this little +house were so poorly constructed that it was impossible to keep anything +clean. The strong wind, which gathered up straw and dirt, seemed to +discharge its load all day long in the various rooms of that little +house. + +In October the new mission house was ready for occupancy and we gladly +made the transfer to this permanent home. The city of Homs is perfectly +flat and quite compact. The streets are narrow and crooked, the houses +low, usually but one story high. The better houses are built of black +volcanic stone and the poorer houses of sun-dried brick. As a rule the +street wall is a dead blank surface, with merely a doorway admitting to +the inclosed courtyard. All this gives the city a dull, depressing +appearance. The old city was surrounded by a wall and a deep moat, and +at the south side, on a high hill, was the ancient castle faced with +black stone. This castle has been a complete ruin for over seventy years +and the city has outgrown its walls and spread across the moat. + +The Evangelical School and the American mission house lie to the south +of the castle hill, on a rise of ground among the vineyards. Many houses +are being built near us, but we are still the vanguard to the south. +Directly opposite to us on the north side of the city is the great +mosque of Sayid Khalid, said to have cost sixteen thousand pounds. It +is a beautiful building, but recently completed. Between us and it lies +the old city, with its seventy thousand plain people. At present a vast +majority of the population look to the north rather than to the south, +but it is our strong hope that the more vital strength represented by +Christian education and Christian homes will win the victory over this +great city and the surrounding country, so that all shall be won for +Christ. + +[Illustration: HAMIDIYEH MOSQUE _Tripoli_] + +[Illustration: OLD CITY GATE _Tripoli_] + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +THE MUEZZIN OR THE BELL + + +As the close of this little record comes near, there appears before me a +contrast or a conflict. Shall Syria continue, as in the past, dominated +by the minaret and all it signifies, or shall the church bell be heard +more clearly and more truly than it has been in the past? + +Many years ago, in the city of Homs, the large and influential Orthodox +Greek community wished to put up a bell in their church. This was found +to be wholly impossible because of the unyielding bigotry and hostility +of the Moslem community and the government. Finally the bishop consented +to hang up a slab of hard, thoroughly seasoned wood, and this was struck +with a mallet at the time of worship, to call the people together. After +quite a long interval, when the controversy was largely forgotten, this +wooden slab was quietly exchanged for one of steel, and a clearer sound +was obtained. This created a little disturbance, but was quickly +accepted as an accomplished fact, for it is a common saying in Turkey: +"Whatever is done is permitted. Whatever is requested is forbidden." +After another long interval a large bell was sent from Russia for this +Homs Church of the Forty Martyrs. In view of the relations of Turkey to +Russia, no open opposition could be shown, and the bell was brought with +great demonstrations of joy and put in its place where it rings to call +the people to worship. Following the lead of this strongest of the +Christian communities, all the others have brought bells since, and they +are in regular use. But the near city of Hamath waited some years longer +before hearing its first regular church bell. + +Many years ago an old sheik in Tripoli was calling on me. He was +intelligent and friendly and I felt that I could speak with him +somewhat freely. When I said to him that the voice of the muezzin in the +neighboring mosque was not so clear as it might be, he told me the +following incident in his father's life: The French consul in Tripoli +lived near a mosque. The muezzin had a musical voice, and the consul +enjoyed hearing the call to prayer in the summer evenings. For some +reason this man was removed and another put in his place, whose voice +was harsh and unpleasant. A few days later the consul arrayed himself in +official style, and with the attendance of his cavasses in full regalia, +he went to call on the old sheik, the father of my informant. It was not +a feast day nor time for official calls, so his coming in this manner +created some astonishment and a little uneasiness. After the ordinary +salutations had been exchanged, the consul addressed the sheik in formal +manner, to this effect: "I have come to-day, officially to convey to +you my own personal thanks and that of the government I represent for +the great favor you have done me." The sheik was even more astonished at +this opening, and protested that nothing worthy of such recognition had +been done. "Yes," said the consul, "you may not have been aware of the +great kindness done, but it is no less worthy of note. In the mosque +near my house there was a muezzin who gave the daily call to prayer in a +voice that went to the heart of the hearer, and it would not have been +strange if he had won my allegiance to Islam. Now, however, he has been +removed and a man with a harsh, repellant voice put in his place, so +there is no longer any danger that the representative of a Christian +nation should deny his faith and follow Islam. For this reason, I convey +to you officially and personally my most profound thanks." No sooner had +the caller taken his leave than orders were sent to have the +sweet-voiced muezzin restored to his former position in the vicinity of +the consulate. The keen consul had gained what he wanted and what a +direct request might not have accomplished. No offense was given and all +were pleased. + +After he had told me this story, I said, "Sheik Ali, there are two +things which I grudge to you Mohammedans; one is the custom of summoning +people to divine worship by the call of the human voice rather than by a +metallic bell; and the other is the exclusive use among yourselves of +the salutation, 'Peace be to you.'" When one Moslem meets another, he +salutes him, "Peace be to you," and the other responds, "And on you be +the peace of God." A Moslem will never intentionally give this +salutation to a Christian. I continued, "That salutation belongs to the +Christians more than to you, for it was the farewell message from our +Master to his disciples, when he said, 'Peace I leave with you; my peace +I give unto you.'" + +Which is it to be in Syria? Shall the separation continue, and one large +part of the population heed the call to prayer by the human voice from +the minaret, while another part worship the same God in the churches in +answer to the summons of a bell? This unfortunate state of affairs will +never cease until the heart of the Christian Church is so full of the +love of Christ and his perfect peace that the Moslem population shall +hear through them a louder cry than the voice of the muezzin, calling +them to worship the one living God, and to know him through the perfect +life of his only Son, our Lord. "Come unto me, all ye that labor and are +heavy laden, and I will give you rest." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Silver Chimes in Syria, by W. S. Nelson + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44122 *** diff --git a/44122-h/44122-h.htm b/44122-h/44122-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9c2df75 --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/44122-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2874 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=UTF-8" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Silver Chimes In Syria, by W. S. Nelson. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + + p.bold {text-align: center; font-weight: bold;} + p.bold2 {text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 150%;} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + h1 span, h2 span { display: block; text-align: center; } + #id1 { font-size: smaller } + + + hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 33.5%; + margin-right: 33.5%; + clear: both; + } + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; border-collapse: collapse; border: none; text-align: right;} + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + text-indent: 0px; + } /* page numbers */ + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smaller {font-size: smaller;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .box {max-width: 33em; margin: 1.5em auto;} + .box2 {max-width: 25em; margin: 1.5em auto; border: 1px black solid; padding: 10px;} + .space-above {margin-top: 3em;} + .right {text-align: right;} + .left {text-align: left;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44122 ***</div> + +<div class="center"><a name="cover.jpg" id="cover.jpg"></a><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover" /></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p> + +<p class="bold2">SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg ii]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i004.jpg" id="i004.jpg"></a><img src="images/i004.jpg" alt="HENRY A. NELSON MEMORIAL Tripoli Boys' School" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">HENRY A. NELSON MEMORIAL</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Tripoli Boys' School</i></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p> + +<div class="box2"> +<h1>SILVER CHIMES IN<br />SYRIA</h1> + +<p class="bold">GLIMPSES OF A MISSIONARY'S<br />EXPERIENCES</p> + +<p class="bold space-above">BY</p> + +<p class="bold">W. S. NELSON, D.D.,</p> + +<p class="bold">AUTHOR OF "HABEEB THE BELOVED"</p> + + +<div class="center space-above"><img src="images/i005.jpg" alt="Logo" /></div> + +<p class="bold space-above">PHILADELPHIA<br />THE WESTMINSTER PRESS<br />1914</p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">COPYRIGHT, 1914</p> + +<p class="center">BY F. M. BRASELMANN</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p> + +<h2>DEDICATION</h2> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">July 17, 1888. Cincinnati, Ohio.</span></p> + +<p><i>This book is affectionately inscribed to her who has been the +companion of my life for twenty-five years; my helper in all my +work; my cheer and comfort in all circumstances; the maker of my +home; the source of all that is silvery in the chimes that ring to-day.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Homs, Syria, July 17, 1913.</span></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p> + +<h2>PREFACE</h2> + +<p>When a tourist is seated on the deck of a steamer, waiting to leave the +country in which he has enjoyed an outing, his eyes do not seek the +low-lying shore of the sea, for the memories he would retain hereafter. +He lifts his eyes to the overhanging mountains. Nor is it the whole +massive range that holds his vision. He looks instinctively to the +scattered, lofty summits which stand aloof as it were from the monotony +of the lower range. Especially as the sun sinks below the western +horizon do his eyes dwell lovingly on those highest peaks which are +colored with the light of the setting sun.</p> + +<p>My purpose in sending out this collection of sketches is somewhat the +same. I have not attempted a continuous narrative, with all the monotony +of repeated acts, but have sought to make vivid to the reader some of +the more conspicuous features of missionary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span> life, in the hope of +deepening sympathy with the workers and increasing zeal in the work. +That is my excuse for the free use of the personal pronoun, not to make +prominent the person, but to emphasize the reality. May the volume be +enjoyed by our fellow workers in America, and blessed by Him whom we all serve.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span></p> + +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + +<table summary="CONTENTS"> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" class="left"><span class="smcap">Chapter</span></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Page</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>I.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Arrival in Syria</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>II.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Language Study</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>III.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Travel and Communication</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>IV.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Evangelistic Trips</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>V.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Aleppo</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>VI.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">New Stations and Buildings</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>VII.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Camping Life</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>VIII.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Persecution</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>IX.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Emigration</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>X.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Syrian Enterprises</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XI.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Interruptions</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XII.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Our Supporters</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_127">127</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XIII.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Personal Friends</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_136">136</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XIV.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Tripoli Boys' School</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XV.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Moving</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_164">164</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XVI.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">The Muezzin or the Bell</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_169">169</a></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span></p> + +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<table summary="ILLUSTRATIONS"> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Page</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Henry A. Nelson Memorial—<i>Tripoli Boys' School</i></td> + <td><a href="#i004.jpg"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Latakia Boys' School</td> + <td><i>Facing Page</i> <a href="#i049a.jpg">34</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Tartoose—<i>Crusaders' Church</i></td> + <td><a href="#i049b.jpg">34</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Aleppo Minaret</td> + <td><a href="#i070.jpg">53</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Hadeth Summer Home</td> + <td><a href="#i094a.jpg">75</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Abu Maroon, the Hadeth Carpenter</td> + <td><a href="#i094b.jpg">75</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Homs—<i>Boys' School</i></td> + <td><a href="#i125.jpg">104</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Tripoli Boys' School—<i>First Home</i></td> + <td><a href="#i173a.jpg">150</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Tripoli Boys' School—<i>Second Home</i></td> + <td><a href="#i173b.jpg">150</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Homs</td> + <td><a href="#i189a.jpg">164</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Heathen Temple and Mount Hermon</td> + <td><a href="#i189b.jpg">164</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Hamidiyeh Mosque—<i>Tripoli</i></td> + <td><a href="#i196a.jpg">169</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Old City Gate—<i>Tripoli</i></td> + <td><a href="#i196b.jpg">169</a></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<p class="bold2">SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> + +<p class="bold2">SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA</p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter I</span></span> <span class="smaller">ARRIVAL IN SYRIA</span></h2> + +<p>Every individual makes a new personal discovery, as with the passage of +years, he realizes the difference between the long look forward over a +given period, and the look backward over the same period, when it is +completed. To the new arrival on the field the veteran of twenty-five +years' experience appears to have spent a very long time in the service; +but as he looks back over his own life, at the end of a similar period, +he wonders that he ever entertained such an opinion. Looking back to the +year 1888, the events of that time do not seem at all remote, and it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> is +hard to realize that to anyone that year can appear a very long way in +the past.</p> + +<p>On the last day of October, in the early morning, a steamer of the +Austrian-Lloyd Line cast anchor in front of Beirut. That was long before +the building of the harbor, and all vessels tossed in the open +roadstead, at the mercy of wind and wave, only slightly sheltered by the +long headland of Ras Beirut, where the tall lighthouse rears its slender +shaft, and where the Syrian Protestant College stands, as a more +important symbol of light-giving.</p> + +<p>The anchor was scarcely dropped before the little boats from the shore +crowded about the ladders and the boatmen came swarming over the sides +of the vessel, to take possession of the passengers and carry them +ashore. It is always a perplexing but interesting scene to the newcomer. +The curious costumes of many colors give an appearance of gayety to the +crowd; the shouting of the guttural Arabic makes one think of Babel; the +wild gesticulating of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> the excited people suggests the possibility of a +riot; the seizing of baggage and pulling of passengers by eager boatmen +make one think that the day of personal liberty and private property is +passed. As a rule, however, it is all good-natured, and the noise is +more bantering than quarreling. In fact, one soon becomes accustomed to +the turmoil as an indication of lack of orderly proceeding in the +Orient.</p> + +<p>Among the first figures to appear on deck that October morning was one +quieter but no less eager than the Arab boatmen. He quickly made his way +to the room of the new missionaries, just arriving from America, +prepared to take them ashore, and even to escort them at once to his own +home in Sidon. It was a most welcome, homelike experience to the tired +travelers, and the cheery voice and cordial welcome of Mr. W. K. Eddy +will never be forgotten.</p> + +<p>There were many things in the journey, thus ended, that had made it +trying. The young couple had crossed the Atlantic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> entirely among +strangers and the ocean had not been kind to them. Seasickness is never +a happy experience, and when it becomes a continuous performance, in +connection with a wedding journey, it seems most inappropriate. Pleasant +visits with family friends and relatives in Scotland effaced the +memories of the Atlantic. Visiting new scenes and beautiful places in +Switzerland gave much pleasure by the way, but in an unfortunate day the +germs of malaria had been absorbed and southern Italy was reached with +fever and weakness that made sightseeing a burden.</p> + +<p>Who can forget his first glimpse of the real Orient, at Port Said? The +noise and the dirt; the squalor and the glaring sun; the rush of the +crowd and the utter lonesomeness of the stranger, make a contrast and +mixture that are not easily matched in life's ordinary experiences. Four +days were to pass before a steamer went to Beirut. It was not a pleasant +prospect for travelers homesick and weak from fever to have to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> tarry +for four days in a dismal hotel, with nothing attractive in the way of +companionship or occupation. Besides this, our trunks had not been sent +forward as promised, and we were obliged to depend upon the limited hand +baggage with which we had crossed the Continent. It is easy to imagine +the sensations with which the young bride looked forward to making her +first appearance among strangers, with a face pale from fever and an +outfit so unexpectedly limited.</p> + +<p>The hearty welcome of Mr. Eddy on the deck of that Austrian steamer in +Beirut harbor was a needed tonic, and his skill and experience readily +passed us through the intricacies of the customhouse and brought us to +the hospitable home of his father. Of the friends who conspired to make +those first days bright, many have been called away to the other shore, +though others are still our associates in the service of Syria. Dr. and +Mrs. W. W. Eddy, with whom we spent our first ten days in Syria, left +us<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> many years ago. Dr. Samuel Jessup was always thoughtful, bringing +bright flowers from his garden to continue the impression of his bright +face and cheery words, when he called upon the strangers. He and Mrs. +Jessup, whose home was one of the brightest spots of those early years, +have also gone on before to their well-earned reward. Mr. March, coming +down from the mountains on his way to Tripoli, was especially ready in +his plans for the comfort of his new associates in Tripoli Station. But +it is not necessary to mention each one. The beauty of missionary life +is the unity of fellowship and the completeness with which every +newcomer is received into the intimacy and love of the circle, which is +only less close and intimate than that of the family itself.</p> + +<p>After ten days spent in Beirut in trying to get rid of the malaria and +in acquiring some knowledge of the Arabic alphabet, we went on to +Tripoli, our future home. It was a cold, windy Saturday afternoon. We +were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> taken out to the steamer in a small boat, which tossed on the +restless waves in a way which we supposed to be normal. The steamer was +small and crowded with a miscellaneous company, most of whom were not +happy, to say the least. Fortunately it is only a four hours' ride, for +the wind increased in violence as we proceeded, and when the anchor was +dropped at sundown off Tripoli, it seemed doubtful whether any boats +could come out to meet us. In due time, however, a boat pulled +alongside, and there was Mr. March, who had come out over that rough sea +to welcome us to our new home, though he did not think we would venture +to start from Beirut in such a storm. The steamer was rolling so badly +that the ladder could not be lowered at all, and we crept out on it as +it lay horizontally along the ship's side, and then, when the tip was +lowest, simply dropped into the arms of the boatmen below. Then began +the laborious pull for the shore. We were two hours reaching land, our +clothes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> soaked, our spirits at zero, but most happy to reach the warm, +cozy haven of the March home in the Mina of Tripoli. It was the +beginning of a most beautiful fellowship with Mr. and Mrs. March and +their children, whose sweet introduction of themselves won our hearts at +once and who, though now grown to maturity, still call us by the old, +affectionate titles of uncle and aunt. Thus, for the second time in our +short missionary experience, we were made to feel the comfort and peace +of being taken into the warmth and love of a Christian home, no longer +as strangers, but as brethren.</p> + +<p>We wished to take possession of our own home as soon as possible. Our +household goods were in the customhouse, and another first experience +was before us. Everything had to be examined and its purpose explained +to the satisfaction of the Turkish inspector. To him it seemed a wholly +unnecessary amount of furniture for one person, for of course he could +not recognize<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> that the wife's existence made any difference. A box of +class photographs was examined in detail, and great surprise manifested +that one person should have so many friends. A small vase for flowers in +the shape of a kettle resting on five legs puzzled the examiner, until +he picked up the perforated piece of a soap dish, and decided that he +had found the appropriate adaptation of the two pieces. It did not seem +necessary to explain, so long as he was satisfied, and no harm was done.</p> + +<p>We had many things to learn besides the language. Our home belonged to a +man whose name was translated to us as Mr. Victory-of-God Brass. In an +arch under the parlor windows he had hung a donkey's skull and some +beads, to keep off the evil eye of jealousy from his fine house. It was +a pleasant house, well located near the city gate which had been known +in former days as Donkey Gate, only a few minutes' walk from the girls' +school and just at the end of the tram line connecting the city with +the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> harbor, two miles distant. In planning for our new home we had +indulged in the luxury of two pairs of simple lace curtains for our +parlor windows. When we entered the house, our amazement can hardly be +exaggerated at the discovery that the parlor had not two but eight +windows, each calling for curtains twelve feet long. Our lace curtains +were relegated to service elsewhere. Mr. Eddy had kindly arranged to +come up from Sidon to help us in this first settling of our new home, +and his help and companionship were invaluable. He went with me to the +shops to purchase such things as were needed, and the shopkeepers +recognized at once his fluent Arabic and his companion's ignorance of +the language. More than one shopkeeper called him aside and asked him to +bring the stranger to them for his purchases, promising him a handsome +commission for his services.</p> + +<p>The house was soon made habitable and just three weeks after our first +landing in Syria we slept under our own roof, with our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> own possessions +about us, and were ready to begin our own independent home life in the +land of our adoption. We had made our beginning, and a bright, happy +beginning it was, notwithstanding the difficulties and drawbacks +inevitable in such conditions.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter II</span></span> <span class="smaller">LANGUAGE STUDY</span></h2> + +<p>Whatever differences there may be in experiences in missionary life, all +missionaries are faced with a most troublesome experience in learning a +new language. It is more or less natural for everyone to magnify what +concerns himself. "Our children" are always a little better than our +neighbors'. "Our cook" makes better bread than anyone else. And +"mother's pies"—well, that calls for no argument. It is much the same +way among missionaries. It is probable that there are just about as many +"hardest languages" in the world as there are distinct mission fields. +But, then, there must be one that is really the hardest, and we in Syria +think we come pretty well up on the list, even though we do not claim +absolute<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> preëminence. The Arabic, though rich and beautiful, is +certainly a difficult language, and I am sure the Syria Mission would +give a unanimous vote on the resolution that it is the toughest +linguistic proposition we have ever attacked. It was one of the terse +and suggestive remarks of Dr. Henry Jessup that at the end of the first +year the new missionary thought he knew the Arabic; at the end of the +second year he thought he knew nothing; and at the end of the third year +he wondered how he got hold of it.</p> + +<p>The isolation of a new missionary is at times appalling. No matter how +kind and helpful the older missionaries may be, they are strangers, +after all, with whom one must get acquainted. The houses are strange, +and not adapted to make one feel at home readily. Servants with their +very imperfect knowledge of English must be directed mainly by signs. +Everything seems unbearably dirty; the sun is unaccountably hot, even in +winter; the food is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> strange and does not appeal to a Westerner's +appetite. But, worst of all, among the babel of noises, there is not a +familiar sound, and with the best intentions of friendliness, one cannot +reveal the intention, except by the perpetual, inane grin.</p> + +<p>We began the study of the language, as everyone does, almost at the +wharf. Even before recovering from the effects of the voyage, the Arabic +primer, with its alphabet, was brought to the bedside. At one of the +earliest lessons in Tripoli, the old, gray-bearded teacher wished to +impress a new word, "Milh." He repeated the difficult combination, and +then inquired in some way whether we knew what the word meant. The look +of blank ignorance on our faces gave him the answer, and he rose and +stepped with dignity, in his flowing robes, to the door. Opening this, +he called in a loud voice across the open court to the cook, "Peter, +bring me some salt." Then with a little of this household necessity in +his palm, he came back to his stupid pupils,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> and, pointing at the salt, +said emphatically, "Milh." That word was permanently fixed in our +vocabulary.</p> + +<p>In less than two months after our arrival in Syria, and forty days after +taking possession of our own home, came New Year's Day. With the +self-confidence of youth and ignorance, we decided to keep open house on +our own account. In the forenoon we had our language teacher with us to +steer us through the intricacies of oriental etiquette, and to tell us +what to say, in the varying circumstances, and all went well. After +dinner, however, we excused him, as we did not expect many more calls, +and waited our fate. After a time, when the parlor was well filled with +a mixed company of men and women, among whom was the old teacher who had +taught us the word for salt, I used the wrong pronominal termination, +probably the masculine where I should have used the feminine. The old +gentleman rose from his place with great impressiveness and started +round the entire<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> circle, pointing his finger at each person, and +pronouncing distinctly to every man, "tak" and to every woman, "tik." It +created a laugh, of course, but it is needless to say that whatever +mistakes I have made in Arabic since, it has never been because I did +not know the difference between the masculine and feminine form of the +second person pronominal affix.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter III</span></span> <span class="smaller">TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION</span></h2> + +<p>In preparing for the active service of a missionary, it was necessary to +have a horse and a touring outfit. Our servant was told that we wanted +to buy a horse, and if he heard of any good chance, to let us know. In a +few days a man came to the house with a large gray mare for me to try. I +rode on her a little and examined her so far as I was capable of doing, +and was greatly pleased with her. I knew enough, however, of oriental +methods, to show no particular zeal over the matter, and left the owner +without any indication of my pleasure. In my own mind, I decided that I +should like to own that mare, and that I would be willing to pay as much +as twenty pounds for her, though I hoped to secure a horse for half that +amount. As<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> I came in I told the servant to make inquiry about the price +of the mare. He returned soon, saying the owner would sacrifice his own +interests so far as to let me have her for seventy-five pounds. I did +not buy that mare, but waited several months until I found a sturdy gray +horse, which I bought for less than ten pounds. He served me well for +five years, when I sold him for little less than the original cost.</p> + +<p>Tripoli field was rejoicing and congratulating itself in those days over +the macadamized road recently opened between Tripoli at the coast and +Homs and Hamath in the interior. It was sixty-five miles to Homs and +thirty-five more to Hamath. A cumbersome diligence made the trip to Homs +in eleven hours, going one day and returning the next, and a lighter +vehicle made the round trip between Homs and Hamath every day. This was +a great advance in rapid transit and a great convenience in all lines of +work.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p><p>In all Syria there was not a mile of railroad, and in northern Syria +there was no carriage road besides the one line just mentioned. All +traveling had to be done on horseback or afoot. Horses, donkeys, mules +and camels were the universal means of travel and transportation. Every +day caravans of camels came into Tripoli by the hundred, bringing grain, +olive oil and Syrian butter from the interior. They returned loaded with +sugar, rice, kerosene oil, and English yarn and cloth. The first +railroad was built in the early nineties from Jaffa to Jerusalem. Later +came the line from Beirut to Damascus; then the line from Haifa through +Galilee to Damascus, the line from Damascus to the south, and the line +from Damascus to Medina. Then came the branch line, from the +Beirut-Damascus line, to Homs, Hamath and Aleppo, and finally the +Tripoli Homs line and the German Bagdad line, passing through Aleppo +from east to west. With many other lines and extensions under +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>consideration, it is evident that railroad communication is fairly +started in Syria and that this part of the East has begun to feel the +influence of steam.</p> + +<p>During our first year in Tripoli, before I was at all familiar with the +various places, I overheard a conversation between two of our associates +about a recent trip to Beirut by land. The remark was made, "I suppose +you took a carriage from Junieh to Beirut." This is about one fourth of +the distance and was considered a great gain in the facilities of +transportation. The answer came, with even greater evidence of +satisfaction, "No, I rode in a carriage from Jebail." This meant a +doubling of the advantage, as Jebail is halfway between Tripoli and +Beirut. That was in 1889 and it was not until 1912 that this carriage +road was completed, so that one could make the whole distance on wheels.</p> + +<p>The tramway connecting Tripoli City and the Mina, or harbor, was the +only tramway in Syria and was an object of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> great pride. It had a single +track about two miles long, with a switch in the middle for the passing +of cars from the opposite ends. A car started from each terminus about +once in twenty minutes and made the trip in about the same length of +time, the fare being four cents and the motor power horses or mules. The +cars were originally imported from Birmingham, of the double-decker +type. They are still in daily service, receiving a fresh coat of paint +and necessary repairs every year. This line continues to run, though +with somewhat more frequent service and with a reduced fare of two +cents, since public carriages now run on a road alongside the tram. +Carriage roads now extend in several directions from Tripoli, and there +are many public carriages to hire; even an automobile is occasionally +seen and several bicycles have made their appearance.</p> + +<p>The postal system is a curiosity to those who are accustomed to free +delivery several times a day. It would be supposed that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> the Turkish +post would carry all letters for people in Turkey, since Turkey is a +member of the International Postal Union. At all the seaports, however, +one finds foreign post offices, which do a large business in receiving +and forwarding mail by all the steamers. To points in the interior they +cannot deliver mail. In Tripoli we had the French, and later the +Austrian service. In 1890 cholera appeared in Tripoli and all steamers +stopped calling at the port, to avoid quarantine. We were confined to +the use of the Turkish mail. Two messengers brought the mail by land +from Beirut each week. It was Tripoli which was infected with cholera, +and yet the incoming mail was stopped outside the city and drenched with +carbolic acid, while the outgoing mail was not touched. The mail +distributor in Tripoli could not read any language, not even Arabic, and +so he used to bring the bag directly to our house and empty it on the +floor, in order to get my help in assorting the letters for him. We were +glad to have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> the first pick of the mail, as it assured our receiving +all our own mail, and that promptly.</p> + +<p>At the last conference of the International Postal Union there was a +general reduction of postage and an increase in the unit of weight. +Turkey has given her adherence to this international arrangement, but +maintains her old internal rates so that we have the present absurd +condition, that a piaster stamp will carry twenty grams to any place +abroad, while it will carry only fifteen grams from one town to its next +neighbor. Additional weight abroad requires three quarters of a piaster +for each additional twenty grams, while for internal use every +additional fifteen grams requires a full piaster. Thus a letter weighing +sixty grams will go from an interior town like Homs to San Francisco for +two piasters and a half, while the same letter, if sent from Homs to +Tripoli, would cost four piasters.</p> + +<p>It might be supposed that there would be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> good caravan roads, at least, +in a country where all produce must be carried on quadrupeds, and all +travelers must ride or walk. The reverse was true, and though the past +twenty-five years have witnessed great improvement in this respect, +there is still much to be desired in most localities. Many of the roads +cannot be described as anything but trails through the rocky ground. The +chief consideration in locating a road seems to be to have it run +through ground which is fit for nothing else, for it would be a pity to +waste arable ground, and so a road must go around, no matter what the +distance. Whatever stones are gathered from the fields are thrown into +the highway, making it rougher than ever. In some parts of the +mountains, the road will lie along the top of a solid stone dike, ten to +fifteen feet wide, from which the traveler looks down to a depth of +eight or ten feet upon the fields and mulberry patches on each side. It +has been said that a road, in Syria, is that part of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> country to be +avoided in traveling, so far as possible. This inference is easy to +understand when you notice that all the trodden paths are in the fields +at either side, and that people travel in the rough roads, only when +there is no escape. While the grain is growing the farmers will do their +best, by building up stone walls, to keep the animals out of their +fields, but just as soon as the harvest is gathered these obstructions +go down and the current of traffic resumes the easier course until the +winter rains make the mud a worse enemy than the rough stones.</p> + +<p>In other places it is often an interesting study to try to decide +whether the water flows in the road, or whether people travel in the +watercourses. It is something like the insolvable question as to which +came first, the hen or the egg. The fact remains that, as a rule, in wet +weather and rough country, the traveler will find his horse splashing +through a stream of water flowing down the road. The explanation is +simple.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> There is nowhere any system of drainage, and every man's +purpose is to turn the streams of rain water away from his own land. +Useful land cannot be wasted for watercourses any more than for roads, +and hence the waste lands are devoted to the double purpose, with the +resulting confusion as to which is the intruder.</p> + +<p>The obscurity of the roads leads to many more or less unpleasant +experiences. There are roads so steep and difficult that it is no +unusual experience to see a muleteer take hold of his mule's tail as he +goes down the mountain path, and by a judicious holding back, help the +animal to steady himself under a heavy, awkward load. On the other hand, +when he is going up the mountain, the tired muleteer will take hold of +the same convenient handle to get a little help for himself in the +ascent.</p> + +<p>One summer night, Mrs. Nelson and I were belated on the higher slopes of +Mount Lebanon. The trail was little more than a path for goats, and was +quite unfamiliar<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> to us. In the dark night, we lost the way more than +once, and we were becoming quite exhausted in repeated efforts to regain +the path, when, at last, we seemed to have strayed completely, and I +could not locate the road at all. We had to take a little rest, and wait +for the moon to rise. We sat upon the mountain side, under the shade of +fragrant cedars, tired, hungry and thirsty. The surroundings were +charming and the dim outlines of forest and mountain beautiful. The +night air was refreshing, after an exceptionally hot day; but when one +has lost his way, he is not in a condition to appreciate fully the +beauties of nature or the charms of his surroundings. As we sat there, +gaining some rest, I began to study the outline of the hills, and +concluded that the road must lie in a certain curve of the mountains not +far away. On investigating I found my impression correct, and we resumed +our journey, reaching our destination just as the moon appeared over the +highest ridge of the mountains.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p><p>On another occasion it was the intelligence of my horse rather than my +own which saved me considerable inconvenience. I was belated upon the +mountain and overtaken by sunset, some eight miles from my destination. +Confident in my horse as well as in myself, I pushed on as rapidly as +possible over the rough path. To add to my difficulty, a thick mountain +fog settled about me until it was impossible to see the path ten feet +ahead. In descending a steep slope, leading my horse, I missed the trail +and found myself in the vineyards. I knew that the village was close at +hand and anticipated no difficulty in working down to the road. At any +rate, it seemed likely that we should arouse the night watchman in the +vineyard and it would be his duty to turn us out of the vineyard, +exactly what we wished for. We stumbled along, over grapevines and +stones, but came no nearer to the road, nor did we disturb the sleeping +watchman. After what seemed like endless wandering, though the distance +was not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> far nor the time long, I came up against a stone wall and could +see a path beyond. Getting over this wall was simple, but which way to +turn in the road was not clear. I tried the turn to the right, +tentatively, not fully convinced myself. My horse yielded reluctantly +and walked very slowly indeed over the rough stones. After a few minutes +my own doubts increased and I determined to test the horse. Dropping the +reins loosely on his neck, I gave him no sign of guidance at all. As +soon as he felt the relaxing of pressure on the bits, his head rose, his +ears stood erect and he seemed to cast an inquiring glance out of the +corner of his eye. When convinced that he was free to choose for +himself, he immediately swung around and started at a rapid walk in the +opposite direction. In a very few minutes I could see the village lights +struggling through the mists, and was soon at my own door.</p> + +<p>This same horse gave me another illustration of his intelligence. I was +riding<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> along the carriage road, on the seashore, intending to turn up +to one of the mountain villages. There were two roads to this village, +and when we came to the first my horse tried to turn up, but was easily +held back and started briskly along, as if fully understanding my +purpose. When we came to the second road we found that it had been +plowed under and that grain several inches high was growing where the +path had been. I knew that the road had been moved a short distance so +as to pass a khan recently erected. The horse had not yet gone over this +altered road and so was puzzled. I left him to his own guidance. When he +came to the point where the road had divided, he stopped and looked at +the grain, and then went slowly on, looking constantly at the field, +until, after about twenty or thirty feet, he decided to make a plunge, +and struck directly through the growing grain to where the old road had +been at the other edge of the field.</p> + +<p>The introduction of railroads and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>carriages throughout the country +facilitates travel and business a great deal, but it takes away much of +the interest and diversion of getting about from place to place.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter IV</span></span> <span class="smaller">EVANGELISTIC TRIPS</span></h2> + +<p>It was a practice with us for many years to arrange a special +evangelistic medical trip in the spring of the year. Sometimes Mrs. +Nelson and I would join Dr. Harris in a journey of two or three weeks, +and sometimes the doctor and I would go alone. One of the most memorable +of these journeys was in the spring of 1893, in the month of May. We had +our tent and camp outfit and the large chests of medical supplies +carried on mules and were accompanied by our cook, with his portable +kitchen packed away under him, and the Syrian assistant of the doctor, +so that we made quite a party altogether. We started along the shore +north from Tripoli, making our first camp about ten miles out of the +city. The next day's journey brought us<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> to Tartoose on the shore +opposite the island of Arvad. Ezek. 27:8. This island lies only a short +distance from the shore, but I have never yet been able to reach it +because of the violent west wind on each occasion of a visit to +Tartoose. The island is wholly covered by the town, which is occupied by +sturdy sailors and fishermen. There are many interesting relics of +ancient times in Tartoose, though it is possible that many of the coins +offered to the credulous public may have been produced recently in the +place itself.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i049a.jpg" id="i049a.jpg"></a><img src="images/i049a.jpg" alt="LATAKIA BOYS' SCHOOL" /></div> + +<p class="bold">LATAKIA BOYS' SCHOOL</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i049b.jpg" id="i049b.jpg"></a><img src="images/i049b.jpg" alt="TARTOOSE Crusaders' Church" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">TARTOOSE</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Crusaders' Church</i></p></div> + +<p>At the edge of the town stands a fine Gothic church, whose substantial +walls and graceful arches are a pleasure to the eye. The empty windows +make one feel lonesome as he approaches the building, and the bare +interior speaks of a decadent Christianity that adds to the sadness. +But, worst of all, is the minaret crudely built on the corner of the +roof, for this is another of the many Christian churches in Turkey which +have been transformed into mosques.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span></p><p>At another of our camping places we found, near at hand, an old Roman +amphitheater, where it was not difficult to imagine a concourse of +pleasure seekers seated on the stone benches watching some exhibition of +strength or skill in the arena below. Wherever one goes in Syria, he is +reminded of an ancient glory and power, in close and vivid contrast to a +present state of decay and weakness.</p> + +<p>Our first Sabbath, on this journey, found us at Latakia, where we spent +the day with our neighbors and fellow workers of the Reformed +Presbyterian mission. This mission was started especially to reach the +Nusairiyeh people of north Syria. Because of the persistent interference +of the Turkish Government, their work has been greatly hampered and +their efforts largely restricted to the training of boys and girls in +the boarding institutions in the city, and ministration to the sick in +the hospital. It was a great pleasure to have this break in our journey +and the pleasant intercourse with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> those engaged in the same kind of +service as our own, and to have the privilege of speaking to the young +people in their schools.</p> + +<p>On Monday we went a short distance from the city, pitching our tent near +a village of considerable size on the plain some miles back from the +sea. As I sat in the moonlight at the door of the tent, a man wearing +the white turban of a Moslem scholar approached me. He seated himself +near me after a pleasant greeting and we fell into agreeable +conversation. After some time, this man took the opportunity, when no +one was near enough to overhear him, to ask most earnestly that we +should send them a teacher for their children. I was surprised at the +request from such a source and turned the conversation so as to make +sure that he understood who we were and what kind of schools we +conducted. He showed that he understood the matter fully, and that he +really desired a Protestant Christian teacher for his town. I then asked +him directly, "Are you not a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>Moslem?" Looking about again, to make sure +no one should hear him, he said, "Yes, I am a Moslem now," with an +emphasis on the last word which revealed the facts in the case. He was +of a Nusairiyeh family but had yielded to the persistent pressure of the +government so far as to accept the form of adherence to Islam, though in +his heart he hated the system and its followers most cordially.</p> + +<p>A long day's ride brought us through the wild and tortuous valley of the +Nahr-ul-Kandil, up the slope of Mount Cassius to the town of Kessab, +some four thousand feet above the sea, where the Latakia missionaries +have their summer homes. It was a most beautiful though rugged ride, and +would have been thoroughly enjoyable in good weather. The wild flowers +were in full bloom, and every turn in the road brought into view a new +combination of varied and bright colors, where the little blossoms +clustered amid the green foliage, among the gray rocks. The great +drawback to our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> enjoyment lay in the fact that for a large part of the +distance we rode in a heavy and most unexpected rainfall. We were not +prepared for such an experience in the month of May, and so reached our +destination soaked and cold. We had been directed to take possession of +one of the cottages belonging to the missionaries in Latakia, and it was +certainly a most welcome haven. We were able to light a fire in the +kitchen stove and spread out our wet garments to dry, while we warmed +ourselves in the grateful heat.</p> + +<p>It was a disappointment the next day that the top of Cassius was +enveloped in heavy cloud, forbidding an ascent. This mountain is about +five thousand feet in height, rising directly from the sea, and so is a +conspicuous object from every direction and gives an extensive view from +its summit. We could tarry but one day, and descended to the old site of +Seleucia, at the mouth of the Orontes, and saw some remnants of the old +harbor from which Paul<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> set sail more than once. The Orontes is quite +wide and deep near its mouth and we crossed it on just such a wire ferry +as I had seen many years before on the Connecticut River in +Massachusetts. The gardens of Swadia were most refreshing with their +green verdure, cool shade and rich fruit, after a long day's ride in the +heat, and again we had the pleasure of missionary fellowship, for our +friends of the Reformed Presbyterian mission have a station here also. +Another easy stage brought us to old Antioch, so closely associated with +the beginning of Christian history. It is not an attractive city in +outward appearance and has suffered much at different times from +earthquake.</p> + +<p>From Antioch we followed the Orontes Valley up to Hamath, where we were +once more among our own organized stations. Such journeys give us an +acquaintance with the country and the people, which is of the most vital +importance in planning for the proper expansion of the work.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p><p>Once, on a pleasant summer evening, we were encamped near a Nusairiyeh +village. Among those gathered about us were an elderly peasant and his +son, a well-built, sturdy youth of seventeen or eighteen years. As he +sat before us this young man appeared to be in perfect health and vigor, +but when he rose to walk, his awkward gait revealed his misfortune, for +both feet were so badly deformed that he walked on his ankles and not on +the soles of his feet. The doctor was asked whether this defect could be +remedied. After a careful examination the lad was told that the +operation would be painful, and that some time would be required, but +that if he would come to the hospital, prepared to stay as long as +should be necessary, he would be able to come away, walking erect, like +other people. The faces brightened at once, and we shared in their +pleasure at the prospect of this deliverance. The next morning, however, +we were told that the family<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> had talked over the matter and decided not +to have the operation performed. We assured them there should be no +expense, but they said it was not the matter of expense. Then we told +them of similar cases which had been successfully treated, but they +assured us they had no doubt of the doctor's skill. We encouraged the +young man to bear the pain for the sake of increased enjoyment in life +afterwards, but he said he was not afraid of the pain. What then was the +trouble? At last we learned the truth. So long as the lad could show two +such clubbed feet, he would be excused from military service; but if +they were made straight he would be called to the army; and he would +rather go through life a cripple than to give several years of his vigor +to service in the Turkish army. And he is no exception.</p> + +<p>We were approaching a large town of bigoted people, wondering how we +should secure an opening for our message. I was riding slightly in front +of the doctor,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> occupied with plans for securing access to the people. +Suddenly I heard the doctor's voice behind me saying, "Boy, do you want +your eye straightened?" On looking back I saw a lad of about fifteen +years, with a decidedly crossed eye, beside the doctor's horse. He +promptly accepted the offer, and we hastened to dismount and tie our +horses. A table in the little roadside café was quickly cleared, while +the doctor got out his case of instruments from his saddlebags. The boy +was placed on the table and in an incredibly short time the cords were +severed so that the eyeball took its proper position, and we were +thoroughly advertised. By the time our camp equipage came up, we had +been provided with an excellent place to camp, and had nothing to +complain of in the reception of the people.</p> + +<p>A memorable experience was in the neighborhood of a large village whose +gardens are said to be watered by three hundred springs. Whatever the +correct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> number may be, there is no question about the abundance of +water and the luxuriance of the gardens. We had three tents, one for +medical clinics and one apiece for our two households, and settled down +for a fortnight's work. Every day we had crowds about the tent for +medical attention and for religious services. The evenings gave abundant +opportunity for work among those who gathered about us after their day's +work was done. They were glad to join in the hymns of praise, and +listened earnestly to the spoken message and read word. One evening, the +boys who gathered about the tent told me that the superintendent of +their school was in town and had begun an examination, to be finished +the next day. I decided to go to the school the next morning to make the +acquaintance of the superintendent and to see what the school was doing. +When I arose the following day, I found many of the boys about the tent, +and asked them why they were not at school for the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>examination. "Oh," +they said, "there is no examination to-day. Early this morning, the +superintendent, the teachers and the headman of the village took their +horses, a large bottle of spirits and a young kid, and went up to the +top of the mountain to a famous spring to spend the day in a drinking +spree."</p> + +<p>One of the pleasantest evenings I remember in my regular routine touring +was spent in this same village. We had brought our party to a garden, +owned by one of our friends who was always glad to have us make it our +headquarters. We had eaten our supper and were seated on the ground, +under a high, branching tree into which was trained a huge grapevine. +Behind us was a little hut, in which the caretaker slept in stormy +weather. At one side was a rude booth where the owner slept during the +summer. An oil lantern gave some light. One by one quite a group of +neighbors and friends assembled and, after some general conversation, +we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> sang some hymns. Then I opened the Bible for a little reading, with +simple exposition. As I read and talked to them, the row of dark faces +was turned toward me with an intentness and eagerness to hear that made +me hope they might not see me or hear my words, but hear those words of +life spoken so many years ago in Palestine, and see that Face from which +alone shines the true light.</p> + +<p>We are not always left to do as we please on these trips, for the +paternal Turkish Government sometimes takes an unnecessary interest in +our plans and shows an excessive concern for our safety. We had crossed +a rugged section of the mountains and come down to a walled town, which +is a government center. Here we camped near the town and were promptly +favored with a call from officials, sent by the governor to find out who +we were. We paid a formal call on his Excellency and were allowed to +remain quietly as long as we desired. When we broke camp a polite<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +message came from the governor, asking where we were going and offering +a guard and escort. We returned a grateful acknowledgment of his +courtesy, but assured him that we were familiar with the roads and would +not trouble him to send an escort. It was only after some difficulty +that we succeeded in getting away alone. We learned afterwards that we +were followed, and that, in accordance with instructions from +headquarters, word was sent from place to place to keep watch of us. At +one large town we had large crowds about our camp and large audiences +for evening services for several days, when suddenly there was a change +and no one came near us. Apparently the sick were all healed and all +interest in singing and conversation had ceased. It developed that word +had been sent to the nearest government center, and orders had come back +at once, not to interfere with our comfort but to notify the people to +have nothing to do with us. At one of these places, which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> were all +occupied by Nusairiyeh and Ismaeliyeh people, Mrs. Nelson was talking +with some of the women about religion. They said, "Do Christian women +have any religion?" When assured that we believe religion to be for +everyone, whether male or female, rich or poor, wise or ignorant, they +replied: "It is not so with us. A woman with us can have no share in +religion. If one of us should accidentally overhear the men talking +about religious beliefs, so that she unintentionally learned some +religious doctrine, she ought to acknowledge it and be put to death. And +it is right to be so, for a woman must know nothing of religion."</p> + +<p>On another occasion, quite a party of us stopped to spend the night in +one of these towns. While I was busy with arrangements for the night +other members of the party went to look about the little castle at the +edge of the town. Our presence was reported to the acting governor. +Unfortunately he was a man of surly disposition and anxious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> to magnify +his office. He demanded our Turkish passports, which he had a technical +right to do. Unfortunately some of the party had failed to provide +themselves with these documents as they were seldom called for. It gave +our little governor a chance and he used it, insisting that he must send +us to Hamath, practically under guard, but nominally under military +protection. We were intending to go to Hamath, but not directly, and so +it was finally agreed that the horseman go with us to Mahardeh where we +were to lodge, and accompany us the following day to Hamath. When we +started out the next morning, it was ludicrous to see the haughty airs +of this soldier who was sent with us. He acted as if he really believed +these foreigners were committed to his absolute control and carried his +head very high. Before going many miles we had succeeded, by pleasant +conversation, in limbering him up considerably, and by noon, when we +stopped for luncheon, he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> displayed his power in our behalf by ordering +the villagers to serve us in every way possible. By evening, when we +entered Mahardeh, he was quite cringing in his servility, for now he +realized that he was alone and we were among friends, so it was worth +while to be genial and submissive. When I informed him that I was not +going with the party the next day, he claimed to be greatly terrified +and begged me most humbly not to subject him to such peril. "For," said +he, "the number of foreigners is mentioned in the governor's letter, and +if I do not produce the full number, I shall be held responsible." I +said, "Be that as it may, I must stay here over Sunday and on Monday +morning I will follow and report myself to his Excellency if necessary." +He went away, apparently in much uncertainty. I knew, however, that the +matter was a mere formality and would bring no risk either to him or to +me; and so it proved, for the governor took no interest in the matter at +all.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p><p>On a warm summer evening, Dr. Harris and I rode up to the sheik's house +in a village I have never visited before or since. As strangers we were +welcomed to the public room. It was soon discovered that a doctor was +present, and immediately all who were diseased came about us. It was a +marvel to see men lie down before this stranger with perfect confidence +and allow him to cut about their eyes or put drops in them. It does +happen, alas, too often, that this credulity costs them dear, for many +an eye has been ruined by conscienceless quacks who trade on the +simplicity of the people. It is a pleasure, however, to see them place +themselves in the hands of the skillful and honest missionary physician, +who will help them, if possible, or tell them truthfully if there is no +remedy. At sunset a large dish of wheat, boiled with some meat, was +brought out, and cakes of barley bread placed about it. All who were +present were bidden to partake, and we did the best we could to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> satisfy +our hunger. After a social evening we spread our beds and made ready for +sleep, if possible. As I lay on my bed, I could hear those who sat about +discussing us. They told of the doctor's famous skill and what he had +done there before them. I was glad to find that I held the humble +position of doctor's assistant in their estimation. But I could not help +wondering then and since about that village. So far as I know that is +the only missionary visit ever made there. Is it enough?</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i070.jpg" id="i070.jpg"></a><img src="images/i070.jpg" alt="ALEPPO MINARET" /></div> + +<p class="bold">ALEPPO MINARET</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter V</span></span> <span class="smaller">ALEPPO</span></h2> + +<p>In 1893 a plan was developed in the mission to extend our sphere of +labor so as to include the city of Aleppo, which had been occupied many +years before by the mission and then left because of the exigencies of +the work and lack of forces. It was a four days' journey from our +nearest outstation, and hence not easy to care for; but as Tripoli +Station was the nearest part of the mission, Aleppo was placed under our +direction.</p> + +<p>Aleppo is one of the largest cities in Syria, and a most important +commercial center. It is nearly the most northern point for the use of +the Arabic language, as Turkish becomes the general medium of +communication one day's journey farther north. Being so near the Turkish +district,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> there are many Turkish-speaking people in Aleppo, but the +city as a whole is essentially an Arabic-speaking place. The American +Board had a Turkish congregation connected with their mission and +maintained church and school work in Aleppo for the Turkish-speaking +strangers resident in the city. There was the most cordial welcome from +these missionaries to our proposal to organize work for the +Arabic-speaking population. Before making my first visit of supervision +to Aleppo it was arranged by correspondence that Mr. Sanders of Aintab, +the missionary in charge of that district, should meet me and spend +several days in conference as to the arrangement of details of our +interlocking work. It had been proposed most kindly that we should hold +our Arabic services in the premises of the Turkish congregation.</p> + +<p>In many ways that first journey to Aleppo was a unique experience. It +was a venture into a region of country wholly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> new to me, and involved +planning for a new department of service. There were two ways to reach +Aleppo, one wholly by land, involving a somewhat dangerous ride from +Hamath for four days; the other by sea to Alexandretta, and thence by +horseback over a carriage road to Aleppo. It was decided to take this +latter course, though all subsequent visits were made the other way. +After gaining all the information I could before leaving home, I took +the steamer to Alexandretta, where I landed on Monday morning. At once I +began my search for a riding animal, and at length secured a horse +guaranteed to be swift and of easy gait, whose owner promised to see me +in Aleppo by the evening of the third day. Delayed by those who wished +to accompany us, it was past noon before we set out on the road. It was +not long before I discovered that the ease had been left out in the +structure of my horse, and that any speed he may have had once was +well-nigh worn out. It was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> clear that I should have to work my passage, +but my courage held out.</p> + +<p>We pressed up the mountain slope and crossed the ridge in good time, +having many beautiful views back over the dark blue Mediterranean. Mount +Cassius lifted its rocky head five thousand feet, directly out of the +sea, to the south, showing where the Orontes empties into the sea at old +Seleucia. After passing the summit of the range we dropped down rapidly +to the Antioch plain, having the lake of Antioch in full view before us. +By sunset we had reached the place intended as our first halt, +thirty-seven kilometers from the shore. I found no place of +entertainment but a bare inn where I could set up my camp bed and sleep. +There was no food to be had for love or money and so I had to depend on +the scant supplies I had brought with me in my saddlebags.</p> + +<p>The second day's ride was much longer than the first, as we kept to the +saddle for twelve hours, notwithstanding the entreaty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> of my companions +to break the journey earlier. I reminded them of the pledge to reach +Aleppo on the third day, and so kept on until dusk. We had left the +carriage road for a more direct trail and stopped for the night in a +small, desolate village. There was no decent shelter to be found and so +I gladly set up my bed on the threshing floor, and slept under the +starry sky. I inquired for milk, eggs, bread, cheese, anything in the +way of food, offering ample pay for anything edible. After much +persuasion the people were induced to burrow in the straw pile on the +threshing floor from which they produced a watermelon. This was +refreshing at least, and helped to wash down my bread, which was getting +rather dry, as I did not like to use much water in this swampy region. +Long before dawn we were again on the road and pushed steadily ahead +over ridge after ridge, until, in the middle of the afternoon, the city +of Aleppo broke on our sight, a most refreshing vision. In one of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> +valleys near Aleppo the traveler cannot fail to notice many heaps of +small stones, evidently placed there to mark certain spots. The place is +called the valley of the slain, and each pile indicates where some +victim has fallen.</p> + +<p>The appearance of Aleppo as one approaches it from the west is not +unpleasing, for it is the first well-built town seen after leaving the +coast. The houses are built of white limestone and the gardens about the +city lend a touch of green, most refreshing after the barren country +left behind. At first sight the designation of Aleppo as +Halch-es-Shahba—Aleppo the Gray—seems most appropriate. It is a pity +to detract from the more poetic explanation of the title. Old tradition +says that Abraham had his encampment at the site of Aleppo for a long +time, and was recognized throughout the region for his wealth and +generosity. He had set apart for the use of the poor the milk from a +certain gray cow in his herd, and hence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> some one was always on the +watch at evening. As soon as the gray cow came forward, this watchman +would shout at the top of his voice, "Haleb es Shahba," which means, "He +has milked the gray cow." Hence the city, which later grew up at this +spot, was called Haleb-es-Shahba, or Aleppo.</p> + +<p>I shall never forget a conversation connected with that journey. My +comrades were all Moslems, and as we jogged on, hour after hour, during +those three days, there were opportunities for conversation on many +topics. One day I asked one of them who was a religious teacher, what +his doctrine had to say as to the fate of non-Moslem infants who died in +infancy. I was surprised to find how closely his view parallels our own +Christian view of infant salvation. He answered at once that they are +all saved through the intercession of Mohammed.</p> + +<p>On reaching the city I sought a hotel, in order to remove the soil of +travel before<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> hunting up our friends in this strange city. I was in the +midst of making myself presentable when a loud knock at my door was +followed immediately by its opening, and a rough Turkish police officer +made his appearance. Without a word or suggestion of apology, he began a +series of questions as to my name, residence and occupation. I let him +exhaust his list of questions and then asked, as quietly as possible, +whether he would like to look over my Turkish passport, which was +required of all in those days. He seemed to be so completely taken aback +at my evident lack of awe for himself, and surprised to meet a person +who was prepared in accordance with the law, that he could scarcely +stammer out in reply, "Why, have you a passport?" "Certainly," I +replied. "Here it is, with all the information you need." He sat down +most meekly and copied off the items he needed and took his departure in +a really polite manner.</p> + +<p>As this was my first visit to Aleppo,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> everything seemed strange to me, +except in so far as all oriental cities have a measure of resemblance. +As I was met also by Mr. Sanders, a missionary in charge of established +work, I found it natural to expect to be dependent on him for +everything. It came thus as a surprise to have him turn to me, in the +street, to act as interpreter. He spoke Turkish, but my Arabic was far +more necessary and serviceable in general intercourse.</p> + +<p>These experiences impressed it upon me most vividly that Aleppo is +thoroughly an Arabic-speaking city, and that the work should be in +organic connection with the evangelical work in other parts of Syria. +The Turkish congregation is a natural member of the Cilicia Union and +should affiliate with the churches of the north, but the Arabic +evangelical work belongs with the organizations under the care of our +mission in Syria. For four years this arrangement was continued and we +maintained Arabic services with a Syrian<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> preacher and a day school with +a Syrian teacher. Each year two missionary visits were made, the +missionaries in Tripoli alternating in this duty. It was difficult to +carry on the work at such long range. In 1897 a heavy cut in our +appropriations made it necessary to consider every possible method of +retrenchment. At the same time the English Presbyterians were opening a +station in Aleppo for work among the Jews, and it seemed best, all +things considered, to ask our English friends to relieve us of this +responsibility, and assume the care of the work for the Gentiles as well +as for the Jews through the medium of Arabic, in Aleppo. Thus our +official connection with the work in Aleppo ceased, but it has never +passed from our minds that some day an Arabic-speaking evangelical +church in Aleppo should become a member of our Syrian Presbyterian +organization. Now that the railroad has brought Aleppo within six hours' +ride from Hamath, the problem has assumed a new<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> form and we may hope +for a renewal of friendly affiliation.</p> + +<p>Such a city as Aleppo, with about two hundred and fifty thousand people +and increasing commercial importance, demands much of the missionary +organizations. The famous Constantinople Bagdad railway of the Germans +passes through Aleppo. A branch line connects with the Mediterranean at +Alexandretta. The French system from Beirut ends in Aleppo, giving +direct connection with Damascus, Beirut and Tripoli. The work of the +American Board, being at present in Turkish, reaches only a small part +of the population. The English mission places its emphasis on work for +the Jews and has ample scope in that part of the population. There +remains the vast bulk of the whole population, with Arabic as their +language, looking naturally to the American mission in Syria for help +and guidance. The large Moslem population and the numerous nominal +Christians deserve the attention of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> resident American missionary to +organize aggressive and effective work. Shall we wait longer before +pressing on in this direction?</p> + +<p>Aleppo has been chosen by the International Committee of the Y.M.C.A. as +a place where a building should be erected and a permanent secretary +established. Should we fall behind the Y.M.C.A.? Whenever the American +Presbyterian Church says the word and furnishes the men and the money, I +am sure the Syrian mission will be ready to send one of its members +forward to this new frontier. God forbid that another quarter century +should pass before this is fulfilled.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter VI</span></span> <span class="smaller">NEW STATIONS AND BUILDINGS</span></h2> + +<p>It has been my privilege to watch from the beginning the growth and +development of three prosperous churches in the territory of Tripoli +Presbytery. Each one has been marked by peculiarities that render it +especially interesting. In the early years of my acquaintance with the +church in Homs, I heard frequently of evangelistic visits on the part of +the young men of the church to various villages in the plain east of the +city—especially to one large village about two miles southeast of us. +The people of this village are of the Syrian or Jacobite church, and +have no little familiarity with the Bible and a really religious +disposition. Our young men from Homs used to go out in small bands of +two or more, with their gospels<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> and hymn books in their pockets. If +they met a friendly reception, they would go into some house, where +those who were interested would gather together and a simple service or +friendly discussion would be held. If no one asked them to come in, they +would seek a place in the public square where people were gathered +together, and sing a hymn or read a passage to open the way for +discussion. In such cases there was danger of an exhibition of hostility +on the part of those who were unfriendly to the evangelical doctrine. It +happened more than once that these faithful messengers were driven out +of town, pursued with stones as well as reviling. Such treatment, +however, could not suppress the truth, and a strong church has grown up +from the seed thus sown amid hostile persecution.</p> + +<p>There was a most interesting old priest in this town of Feiruzeh who +received the truth into his heart, but never had the courage to leave +the old church, though he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> was known to be at heart an evangelical +believer. He sought books on the evangelical doctrine and studied them +earnestly, and sometimes attended the Protestant service, being present +at least once on a sacramental occasion. He openly taught his people the +folly of auricular confession and priestly absolution, saying to them: +"If you wish to come to me and tell me of your sins, so that I may help +you and pray with you to God for forgiveness, I am at your service; but +I am a sinner like you and we all have access to one Saviour. I cannot +forgive your sins, but will gladly pray for you and with you."</p> + +<p>There had been some inquiry about the truth on the part of a few people +in the village of El Yazidiyeh. In my first visit to the place we +pitched a tent on the threshing floor outside the village. Much +curiosity in our coming was shown, and some opportunity given to +strengthen the purpose of those who were inclined to the truth. At +length a teacher was stationed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> there and a simple school opened. One or +two of the people had joined the church in a neighboring village, but +the sacrament had never been administered in the town itself. Several +were ready to make a public profession of their faith in Christ, and it +seemed that the time had come to begin the full life of the little +church, by administering the sacrament on the spot. Plans were arranged +for an evening service in the schoolroom, and a good company was +gathered in the rudely furnished, dark little room. There was much +disturbance outside when it was known what was in progress. One zealous +defender of the truth sprang from his seat and rushed out in a most +militant manner to disperse the noisy crowd without. While the little +service was in progress, it was not always easy to keep the attention of +all, on account of the noisy beating of tin cans near by; and some +pebbles were thrown in at the windows. The service was completed, +however, and this was the beginning of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> what has proved to be one of our +most vigorous churches. There is now a simple church building, which is +always well filled at regular services, and new members are ready to +come forward at almost every communion service.</p> + +<p>The village of Hakoor is memorable, not so much because of hostile +opposition to the work as because of the apparently feeble instrument +used of God for the establishment of the church. A blind man, of keen +and inquiring mind, lived in this village and made a precarious living +by keeping a little shop. He was respected by his neighbors for his +integrity of character, and trusted by the church authorities for his +fidelity to church duties. He began to hear something of the new +evangelical doctrine and though ready to investigate, was strong in his +opposition and slow to yield to the new faith. When once thoroughly +convinced, however, his very honesty of nature made him accept the truth +and declare himself for the Protestant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> view. The bishop sent for him, +in order to recall him from his error. He told the bishop that he was +convinced that the teaching and practice of the Greek Church were not in +harmony with the gospel, and that he had decided to follow the teaching +of God rather than that of men, but that he was ready to hear anything +the bishop had to say to convince him that he was mistaken. The bishop +began to read him a controversial tract recently prepared against the +Protestant doctrine. Our blind friend interrupted him, saying: "I have +heard all that and can give you an outline of the whole argument. It +does not convince me and so, if you have nothing stronger, it will do no +good." The bishop then reviled him, comparing his course to that of +Judas toward Christ, and so cast him off. The blind man went home, glad +to suffer abuse for the truth. He gathered around him a group of +neighbors who studied the gospel under his guidance, and a little church +has grown up in that <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>village, to which he ministered regularly for a +year, when no other preacher could be found. The little band has been +full of zeal and has raised the money to build a little chapel in which +they worship and in which their children are taught.</p> + +<p>By means which are insufficient in the sight of men, in spite of +opposition from those who are hostile to the truth, God's word continues +to bear fruit and the gospel light continues to spread throughout the +world.</p> + +<p>The missionary is met, in his periodic visitation of the outstations, +with every conceivable request and complaint. I am often asked to mend a +clock or a watch. I have been appealed to to adjust a coffee mill which +did not work right. Matrimonial and family difficulties must often be +arranged. I have told the people that there is one complaint I am always +glad to hear, and that is to the effect that the place of worship is too +small for the regular attendants. When I first went to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> village of +Minyara, the services were held in a small room about twenty by +twenty-five feet. There was room to spare, though not a great deal. In a +few years it became necessary to plan for enlargement. This was +accomplished by securing a piece of land adjacent to the building, +taking out the end wall and extending the room so as to increase its +capacity about two thirds. The growth of the congregation was so rapid +and steady that this enlargement was not completed before the room was +again inadequate. An appeal was made to a generous friend in St. Louis, +and five hundred dollars were sent for the Minyara chapel. A further +piece of land was secured, and plans made for an entirely new and larger +building. The outline is rectangular, and the flat roof is supported by +three rows of arches, resting on six pillars. This building has been +ample for the accommodation of this growing church for many years, +though it is often well filled and would be far from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> sufficient, were +not half the members in America.</p> + +<p>In the city of Homs the old church had a flat dirt roof supported by two +heavy arches, which made the room seem dark and contracted. The regular +congregations taxed the capacity of the building, and the roof timbers +were showing signs of weakness which would necessitate an early renewal. +The pastor of the church began to work earnestly for a reconstruction of +the roof, with an enlargement of the audience room. There was a little +vacant space at one end of the building which if it were inclosed would +increase the capacity about forty per cent. At the same time the heavy +arches could be removed and a galvanized iron roof placed over the +enlarged building. But this would cost a considerable sum, and how was +that to be raised? The people thought they could not raise more than two +hundred dollars. The same friend in St. Louis, who had provided for the +Minyara chapel, sent another five<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> hundred dollars, and we made this +proposition to the church: "After the church spends two hundred and +fifty dollars, the mission will put in five hundred, but if any more is +needed the church must provide it." They went to work with a will. When +the dirt from the old roof was to be carried out they organized a +regular church bee. All the men of the church came together, the pastor, +the doctor, the teacher, the merchant, each one taking one of the rough +baskets in which they carry dirt, and all together got the whole pile +removed at a considerable saving to the building fund. Before the work +was finished the church had raised and expended quite as much money as +they had received from outside. This enlarged place of worship has again +become too small, and its further enlargement is a pressing problem.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i094a.jpg" id="i094a.jpg"></a><img src="images/i094a.jpg" alt="HADETH SUMMER HOME" /></div> + +<p class="bold">HADETH SUMMER HOME</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i094b.jpg" id="i094b.jpg"></a><img src="images/i094b.jpg" alt="ABU MAROON, THE HADETH CARPENTER" /></div> + +<p class="bold">ABU MAROON, THE HADETH CARPENTER</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter VII</span></span> <span class="smaller">CAMPING LIFE</span></h2> + +<p>At the close of a tour one spring, Mrs. Nelson and I were compelled to +reach home on a fixed date, because of the expected arrival of guests. +The weather had been unpropitious and the rains heavy for the season of +the year. At one point we had been shut in for several days by a +snowstorm, and all the rivers were unusually high. We had a broad plain +to cross, intersected by three rivers which must be forded. The rain had +been persistent, but ceased on the day we were obliged to start for +home. We reached the first river after about an hour's ride, and crossed +it successfully, the water coming near to the girths of the saddles. The +second river was reached and crossed without serious difficulty, but +from there onward the entire plain seemed to be under water, and our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +horses splashed along through water and mud without interruption. Toward +sundown we neared the last stream, and congratulated ourselves that just +beyond it we should find the carriage road and a dry place for the +night. Our road lay through a wretched little Nusairiyeh village, just +before reaching the river, and as we passed the houses we were hailed by +many voices assuring us that the river could not be forded with safety. +I did not believe this at first, thinking it merely a ruse to compel us +to spend the night in their village. Such an event would be more or less +profitable to the people who would provide our necessities for a +consideration, even if there was no thought of robbery, which was quite +possible also. We waited for our muleteers, as they were familiar with +the stream and would be able to decide whether we could cross or not. +Their verdict agreed with the statement of the villagers and so we were +obliged to negotiate for a lodging place.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p><p>After some parley we were allowed to stop in the sheik's public room. +There was not a dry spot about the town, but by riding up close to the +door, we were able to dismount on a large log, and then jump across a +mud puddle to the doorsill, and so enter the room assigned to us. It +would be hard to make anyone who has not seen such houses realize what +this room was like. It was about twenty feet square, with one door and +no window. The lack of this latter was partly supplied by the fact that +the wall of the house had tumbled in at one corner, leaving a ragged +hole through which light and air entered freely. The floor was of dirt +and at two levels. One half, which was used to accommodate people, was +reached by a high step and was comparatively dry. In the middle of this +higher floor was a smoldering wood fire, from which the smoke had +colored the roof timbers a shiny black. The lower half of the floor was +on a level with the ground outside or even a little lower, and was +decidedly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> muddy. This section was for the accommodation of horses and +cattle. When our party was all inside, so that we could take a census, +we found that the occupants of the room for the night were to be, +besides myself and my wife, the three muleteers, a cook and a Syrian +maid accompanying us to the city. We were in the higher part of the +room. In the other part were two horses, four mules, a goat and a calf. +These were the visible animals, and anyone who has traveled under +similar conditions will appreciate what is meant when I say there were +myriads of other creatures which made themselves known through other +senses than sight.</p> + +<p>The sheik was seated by the fire, warming himself, and gave us a scant +welcome. We took such a supper as we were able to provide in the +circumstances, and prepared to be as comfortable as possible for the +night. One of the men had been suffering from malaria and so I prepared +for him, and others in the party, a dose of quinine,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> after the fatigue +and exposure of the day. The sheik immediately asked what it was, and +desired a dose for himself and the other men present. It was the same +principle as that which makes bargain sales attractive. Something is +going cheap or gratis, and so I must have it, whether I need it or not. +Doses were given out to all who wished for it, for a few grains of +quinine seldom go amiss in this country. Conversation was not very +lively, about that smoky fire, as we were tired and there were not many +topics of common interest. At length our cook thought he would +facilitate matters a little. He had lived with foreigners long enough to +know the advantage of appealing to the gallantry of men toward the +ladies, so he said in his most ingratiating tone to the sheik, "The lady +is tired and would like to go to sleep." "Well, let her do so, there is +no objection." With a scarcely restrained chuckle, the cook subsided for +a time and then tried again, saying this time, "The Effendi (gentleman)<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +is tired and would be much obliged if you would leave so that he may +sleep." This was a different proposition and seemed to meet something of +a response. Shortly, one of those present got up and went over into the +corner of the room where he spread out his cloak and proceeded to his +Moslem devotions. When he was through, another followed him with equal +deliberation, and we began to doubt whether we should sleep before +morning. At length the last one withdrew and we were left to ourselves, +including the attendants and animals mentioned before. We spread our +camp bedsteads in the driest part of the room and made ready to sleep. +It was not long, however, before the rain began to fall, and very soon +the roof began to leak over our heads. We spread rubber coats over +ourselves and raised our umbrellas over our heads and tried to see the +humor of the situation. At early dawn we were up and packed our goods +for a new start. The river had fallen sufficiently in the night to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> +permit our crossing, though with some difficulty. On the farther bank we +found a party of people waiting until the stream should subside +sufficiently to allow them to cross with their small donkeys.</p> + +<p>Every summer it is necessary to make a change from the heat of the plain +to the more bracing air of the mountains. This is not a vacation, for +the missionary's work goes on with little variation, wherever he may be, +but it involves a change of base and the setting up of a simple +household in different surroundings. In those earlier years the mountain +life was exceedingly simple and the means of transportation most crude. +The village of Hadeth is accessible from Tripoli and in a beautiful +situation, directly opposite the famous grove of Cedars of Lebanon. It +lies on a ridge in the mountains at an elevation of some forty-five +hundred feet above the sea. More than one season have we spent in the +house of old Abu Maroon, the village carpenter. The house consisted of +four<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> large rooms, opening on a long, arched porch which extended the +full length of the house. The floors were of dirt and the walls roughly +plastered with mud. We rented three of these rooms, the owners occupying +the fourth. The partitions between the rooms were made of brushwood, +plastered on both sides with mud. These partitions extended only about +three fourths of the way to the roof, leaving ample space above for +ventilation and conversation. The uncovered twigs and small branches at +the top of these partitions made an attractive, artistic feature, very +pleasing to many of our visitors. One of the regular household duties in +those mountain houses was the renewing of the mud on the floors. Every +week or two it was necessary to remove everything from the rooms, spread +a fresh coat of watery mud over the floor, and polish it off with a +smooth, round stone kept for the purpose. We could then anticipate +reasonable freedom from fleas for another period.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p><p>The only way to reach a summer resort was on horseback, over very rough +bridle paths. All furniture had to be transported by mules in like +manner; folding chairs and tables, camping utensils and necessary +bedding had to be made into suitable bundles; indispensable supplies had +to be provided and mules secured to carry all to the mountains. It was a +long, hard day's ride and the party was sure to be pretty tired the +first night of arrival, but the renewed vigor in the fresh mountain air +gave new strength for the resumption of life on the hotter plain in the +fall and it was well worth all the trouble it cost.</p> + +<p>When it is possible to secure a week or two for real rest, there is no +more delightful way to accomplish the purpose than to make a camp in the +cedar grove. This clump of trees lies in a basin in the higher +mountains, about six thousand feet above sea level. On the east and +north, and somewhat on the south, the mountains rise about this great +amphitheater to about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> four thousand feet more, being the highest +mountains anywhere in Syria. Large patches of snow lie perpetually on +these highest mountains, but the slopes are bare, having no trees nor +shrubs beyond clumps of thorns and scanty grass where the melting snows +afford some moisture. Flocks of goats range over these barren slopes, +gaining a scanty subsistence. In the days of Solomon and Hiram of Tyre +these mountains were probably covered with cedar forests. Nowadays only +small sections are so covered, though on many of the bare heights the +people still dig up the old stumps of great cedar trees, which they sell +for fuel in the cities.</p> + +<p>On the entire mountain range there is left no single grove of really +ancient cedars, except the one of which I have spoken, known among the +people as the "Cedars of the Lord" or simply as "The Cedars." It is +impossible to speak with certainty of the age of these great trees, but +from what we know of their slow growth and the size<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> of many of the +trunks, it is safe to place their age in the thousands of years. There +are more than four hundred trees in the grove and their reputed sanctity +has protected them from destruction. Some forty years ago one of the +governors of Mount Lebanon had a wall built inclosing the grove and a +guardian appointed. This affords protection from goats, and now a number +of small trees are growing up to perpetuate the grove in generations to +come. If proper steps were taken for reforesting the whole of Lebanon, +there would be a great improvement in many ways, and the agricultural +wealth of the country would be greatly increased.</p> + +<p>To establish a camp among these grand old trees is a most delightful way +to spend a short vacation. The silence of the nights under the spreading +branches; the fragrance of the foliage; the soothing sigh of the breeze +among the tree tops; the beautiful and ever-changing colors on the +higher mountain slopes; the beautiful outlook to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> the west over the +narrow valley out to the distant Mediterranean; all these influences +tend to quiet the tired nerves, refresh the exhausted brain and draw the +discouraged heart back to quiet and rest in the hand of the Master.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter VIII</span></span> <span class="smaller">PERSECUTION</span></h2> + +<p>Late one afternoon as I was sitting in my study, the doorbell rang and a +young man from Hamath entered, showing every token of great excitement +and fatigue. He had just arrived on the diligence from Homs. As soon as +he was sufficiently composed to give me a clear story, he told me that +the preacher in Hamath had been suddenly arrested by the local +authorities, and after somewhat rough treatment, had been sent under +guard to Damascus, a journey of five days on horseback, as it was before +the era of railroads. So far as I could learn from my informant, the +case was one of flagrant persecution, with no culpable occasion behind +it. The first thing to be done was to quiet the excitement of our +friend, who had brought<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> the word himself rather than trust a written +message. Giving him a chance to rest, I made hasty arrangements for a +night ride to Beirut. The moon would rise about ten o'clock and I +arranged for two riding horses to be ready for us before midnight. We +set out together through the olive orchards under the witchery of the +moonlight. It would have been a pleasant experience under other +circumstances. The road follows the general line of the seashore, at +times close to the breaking waves, and again rising on a rocky bluff at +whose base the blue sea keeps up an incessant murmur. In the silent +night the play of advancing and retreating waves gives a constantly +varied effect of light and sound.</p> + +<p>Before noon we reached Beirut and consulted with various missionary +friends and the consuls of America, England and Germany, who take an +interest in matters affecting the Protestants in Turkey. It was decided +that our Hamath friend should go at once to Damascus, while I awaited<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +word from him whether my presence was needed. The following day a +telegram agreed upon between us brought the brief message, "Better +come." The old French diligence in those days made the trip across Mount +Lebanon to Damascus in something over thirteen hours, a rather fatiguing +day. On the evening of my arrival we had a conference of the immediate +circle of friends, and the arrested man himself was among us. This was a +thoroughly characteristic incident, under Turkish administration, and so +merits a word of explanation. During the journey from Hamath to +Damascus, friendly relations had been established between the prisoner +and his escort, so that the latter were willing to accommodate their +prisoner in any reasonable measure. It was agreed upon that they should +not announce their arrival nor report to their superiors for a few days +until the prisoner secured a little rest and made arrangements for his +defense. Hence I was informed by our friend himself that he would not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +arrive in Damascus "officially" for several days.</p> + +<p>It is needless to go into all the details of this event but the +animating cause of the incident has its humorous as well as its +enlightening side. Some time before, our friend had wished to compliment +the man who was at the time governor of Hamath. Being of a literary turn +he wrote a flattering poem to present on a suitable occasion. +Indiscreetly he worked into his poem serious reflections on another man +who was the governor's enemy and who held a similar post at a distance. +The governor was so pleased that the poem was printed for distribution +and a copy reached the hands of the other man, who was naturally not +pleased with it. In the subsequent shifting of appointments this very +man became governor of Hamath, and found a way to vent his spite at the +poet.</p> + +<p>When looked at from a safe perspective, most of the so-called +persecution in Syria has a predominant touch of humor in it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> The most +convenient and suitable place for Tripoli missionary families to spend +their summers is in the village of Hadeth close to the summer seat of +the Maronite patriarch. The whole valley is considered sacred, and hence +strongly guarded against the pollution of any heretical evangelical +influences. For a number of years the ecclesiastics tried, in every way +they could devise, to make us trouble and to prevent our securing houses +in the town, or finding any comfort when we did so. During one summer +they were especially aggressive and seemed determined to be rid of us. +The priests warned everyone against serving us in any way, and against +selling us anything to eat. For a few days our servant had to go to a +neighboring town to buy supplies. The woman who had been doing our +washing sent word she could not come. A special conclave assembled and +summoned our landlord, threatening all sorts of vengeance if he did not +turn us out. They said that a mob would destroy his house<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> over our +heads. The poor old man came to me in great fear, knowing the +unscrupulousness of his opponents, and thinking they might get up some +false accusation against him in the government and cast him into prison +or subject him to needless loss or expense. I assured him they would not +dare touch us or attack his property and that the whole plan was to +frighten us into leaving town, if possible. I told him that we were to +leave on a certain day in October. When the hostile party learned this, +they drew up a pledge that the Americans were to be expelled from town +on the day I had indicated, under a forfeit of fifty pounds from the +landlord to the local church. He was also required to go to the church +and apologize publicly to the people, kiss the floor of the church in +front of the picture of the Virgin, and pay a pound into the treasury. +He was then accepted as in good and regular standing, and all waited for +the appointed day. Unfortunately I did not know of this until it was too +late<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> to change our plans. On the day appointed we left town with our +household goods and as we rode away we heard the church bells ringing +out a peal of rejoicing to celebrate the cleansing of the town. Times +have changed now, and the same priest who led in the opposition then +will call upon us and crack jokes about the times gone by.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter IX</span></span> <span class="smaller">EMIGRATION</span></h2> + +<p>The period of my life in Syria has witnessed the rapid development of +emigration. In former days there was very little travel among the +people, the marriage of a girl to a man in a neighboring village being a +notable and rather rare occurrence. It was no unusual thing for a person +to spend his whole life without ever going so much as ten miles from his +birthplace. I was entertained for supper one night at the home of a +wealthy Moslem in Homs. The old father of our host was present and I +entered into conversation with him as to the experiences of his long +life. He told me that he had taken four wives, as permitted by Moslem +law. He had twenty sons who had all grown up and married in Homs. He +said that his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>grandsons numbered about a hundred, all of whom he knew +by face, though he might not be able to fit the right name to each, at +first sight. Knowing him to be quite wealthy, I asked whether he had +traveled much. My first question was whether he had been to the +seashore, some sixty-five miles away at Tripoli. He had never seen the +sea. "Have you been to Damascus?" This would appeal more to a devout +Moslem, since the sea is always associated more or less with the unholy +foreigners of Christian faith, while Damascus is an ancient seat of +Moslem power and glory. "No, I have never seen Damascus," was his +answer. "Well, surely you have been to Hamath?" This is only thirty +miles distant. "No," he said, "I never went to Hamath." "Have you passed +your whole life right here in Homs?" "Once," he said, "I made a journey +out among the Arabs of the desert, to buy sheep." That was the extent of +traveling by an intelligent, well-to-do Moslem of the old school.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p><p>Some thirty or forty years ago a change began among the people and a +few enterprising men sought more favorable opportunities for making a +living in foreign lands. Many of them were successful and encouraged +others to follow them, until now the most profitable business of the +steamships calling at Syrian ports is the carrying of emigrants back and +forth. The weekly exit is numbered by the hundreds, and large numbers +also return from time to time. Few of those who return to Syria remain +for any length of time, for, having once tasted the liberty and +experienced the opportunities of life in western lands, they are no +longer content to fall back into the old, slow, unprofitable methods of +the Orient. A notable change has also come over the character of the +emigration in another respect. At first it was only the more +enterprising, vigorous young men who went abroad to seek their fortunes. +Now whole families go together. Women and girls emigrate as freely as +men. At first it was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> only Christians who sought to improve their +condition in Christian lands; now Moslems and Nusairiyeh go as freely as +do the Christians.</p> + +<p>At first this emigration was a blind flight from poverty and oppressive +conditions at home, with little understanding of the places to which the +emigrants were going. They placed themselves literally in the hands of +the steamship agents in Marseilles. Taking passage from Syria to +Marseilles, they were shipped on from there in bunches, according to the +advantage of the agent into whose hands they fell. They might be sent to +Argentine, while the friends to whom they were going were in +Massachusetts. They might be sent to Sierra Leone or to Capetown, but it +was all America in their minds. The simple idea of geography in those +days seemed to divide the world into two parts, Syria and America. The +common people know far better now, for they discuss intelligently the +conditions of life and business in the various parts of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> world. +Syrians are to be found in every one of the United States, from Maine to +Florida, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific. They are in Alaska, the +Sandwich Islands and the Philippines. They are in every country of +Central and South America, in the West Indies and in all parts of +Africa. In many places they have bought property and made permanent +business arrangements.</p> + +<p>In the early years there were many indications of their lack of +experience in money matters and general business methods. One man in +Brazil had accumulated quite a sum of money and wished to return home. +He did not understand the simplicity of taking a draft on London from +the bank, and was averse to parting with good gold for a mere slip of +paper. He changed all his money into English sovereigns and put the +whole nine hundred into a belt, which he secured around his body under +his clothes. He did not dare remove his treasure day or night during the +weeks of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> journey, enduring the weight and pressure until he reached +home. He was then taken sick and nearly lost his life from kidney +trouble induced by this folly.</p> + +<p>Another young man in Mexico started home by way of New York. He knew +that English and French gold are current in Syria, and was sure that +American gold was every bit as good. So he exchanged his money for +American gold coin. It came to my attention through a man who came to me +with a twenty-dollar gold piece, and asked what it was worth. When I +told him its real value, he showed such surprise as to arouse my +curiosity. It appeared that this coin, with one like it, had been given +as betrothal token for his daughter. Subsequently the engagement was +broken by the young man and so, in accordance with oriental custom, the +token was forfeited. The father, wishing to realize on the coin, took it +to a local goldsmith who pretended to examine it carefully and then +offered three dollars for it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> The father was disappointed at this +appraisal and indignant that his daughter should have been rated so low. +The reaction, when he found the coin to be worth nearly seven times as +much as he had been informed, was almost too much for him.</p> + +<p>One matter connected incidentally with the emigration has been the call +for assistance in handling money for those abroad. In the earlier years +there were no adequate banking facilities outside of Beirut and so the +people began to send back money to their families through the hands of +friends who were merchants living in the various seaport towns. In +several cases unscrupulous men took advantage of the general ignorance +in money matters to secure abnormal profits to themselves, and in more +than one instance, through fraudulent bankruptcy, cheated the people out +of hundreds of pounds. Those who were in any way connected with the +American missionaries began sending their money to us, and at last we +were obliged to conduct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> quite an extensive banking business. In some +years drafts for several thousand pounds would come to me in sums +ranging from two or three pounds to several hundred at a time. These +were to be paid out to various relatives or to be held on deposit until +the owners' return. On one occasion I opened a registered letter from +Brazil and found in it a draft on London for ten pounds. On reading the +letter I found it to be written by a man I did not know, in behalf of +another stranger, and that the money was to be paid to an entire +stranger in a village I had never seen. It was enough for the sender to +know that his money was in the hands of an American missionary.</p> + +<p>On one occasion a returned emigrant came to my associate with a kerchief +full of silver and gold coins. He asked the privilege of depositing this +with the mission until he needed it. As it was evidently a considerable +sum, he was advised to put it in the bank so as to secure some +interest,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> but he preferred to feel sure that his money was safe, even +though it earned nothing. Neither did he see any necessity of waiting +until the money should be counted and a regular entry made of it in the +books. It was enough that the missionary had charge of it. This open +account remained with us a number of years and sometimes amounted to two +thousand dollars.</p> + +<p>A man sent me from Venezuela a draft for a hundred pounds, charging me +to let no one know of it, but to hold the money until he should come. +After a long interval I learned that his wife was thinking of going to +join him, since no word had been received. I succeeded in dissuading +her, as I knew he was planning to come home and they might miss each +other in mid-ocean. The return was delayed, and before he arrived his +funds in my hands amounted to six or seven hundred pounds.</p> + +<p>The volume of emigration is growing every year and is taking away the +strength of the land, but better banking facilities<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> have relieved us of +the financial cares formerly carried. The director of the Ottoman Bank +in Tripoli estimates the annual amount of money passing through this one +port in drafts from Syrians abroad as not less than seven hundred +thousand pounds sterling.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter X</span></span> <span class="smaller">SYRIAN ENTERPRISES</span></h2> + +<p>The final aim of mission work is the development of a self-supporting, +self-propagating Christian community, and hence the happiest experience +of a missionary's life is connected with the first independent +undertakings of the people whom he serves. In this connection there are +two interesting incidents connected with the life of the evangelical +church in Homs. There are men still living who remember when the gates +in the old city walls were closed every night at sunset, and a belated +traveler had to make himself as safe and comfortable as he could on the +outside until sunrise the next morning. When this old custom passed into +disuse, the city gradually outgrew the old limits and new sections<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> +began to appear outside the old walls. When I first visited Homs, there +was already a large settlement on the north side of the old city, known +as the Hamidiyeh in honor of the reigning sovereign Abd-ul-Hamid. In +this section of the city were a number of evangelicals and it was most +desirable that there should be regular services in that section. Much +difficulty was found in renting suitable quarters, and a change was +necessary every year or two. At length one of the most prosperous men in +the church decided that a permanent chapel must be secured. The people +in that part of the city were poor and could not raise money to buy +property. He decided to set aside a certain sum, and let it accumulate +in his own business until he should have sufficient for the purpose. He +did so, and after some years was able to purchase and remodel a house in +the Hamidiyeh. That little chapel has been in constant use now for many +years for public service on the Sabbath and school during<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> the week, and +is all the result of the generous thought of this one man.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i125.jpg" id="i125.jpg"></a><img src="images/i125.jpg" alt="HOMS Boys' School" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">HOMS</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Boys' School</i></p></div> + +<p>Early in the present century a zealous young man became the acting +pastor of the Homs church. He was constantly seeking for means to +strengthen the position of the evangelical church in the community and +was soon convinced of the importance of improving the schools, so as to +make them more effective and more attractive. He urged the church +forward in support of his plans, and raised the standard of work in the +schools. He himself was an indefatigable worker and inspired others with +the spirit of service. He gained the confidence of the man referred to +above and secured his help financially when needed. At length it seemed +to this pastor that all their efforts would be in vain unless he could +establish a boarding school for boys. It was not possible for the +mission to help in these plans at that time, and our earnest friend +decided to push ahead alone. A bequest was made to the evangelical +church in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> Homs by one of her members who died in Egypt. This was a +nucleus, and others were induced to contribute larger and smaller sums. +A beginning was made in temporary quarters in the city itself, while a +fine site was purchased outside for the permanent building. The school +was popular from the start, and, considering the cramped and unsuitable +quarters in which it was conducted, did admirable work. Syrians in Egypt +and America responded well to the appeal to their patriotism. A plain +but commodious building was erected on the new site and the school was +moved to its new home. The school has about four or five acres of land, +lying higher than any other plot near the city. This tract is inclosed +by a simple wall. Within is the two-story stone school building, with +accommodation for something over a hundred boarders, and a schoolroom +which might accommodate nearly twice that number. The kitchen and dining +room are in a simpler building adjacent. Thus has been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> provided a +convenient, healthful home for the school, with ample playground and +suitable surroundings.</p> + +<p>A Christian community which shows the strength and ability to organize +and conduct such enterprises as these has certainly a degree of vitality +which gives us every confidence in its growth and advance in the future.</p> + +<p>One of the greatest misfortunes, as it appears to me, in the situation +of the subject races in Turkey, is their inability to appreciate the +value and meaning of the word "loyalty." I have failed to find an Arabic +word in common use which conveys the fullness of what we mean by that +word "loyalty," and it seems to be because the people have had no +occasion to express the idea. It is an inestimable loss to a people to +live in such conditions, for there is an inevitable reaction upon +character and a blighting effect on all the relations of life. This +condition of things has grown rapidly in recent years, and most +evidently during<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> the reverses of the Balkan war. It is an everyday +experience, in passing along the street, to hear people exclaiming +against the oppression and injustice of Turkish rule, with the +expression, "Anything would be better than the present condition." Nor +are such expressions any more frequent from Christians than from +Moslems. A member of one of the leading Mohammedan families was recently +quoted to me as saying: "We want an end of this business. We want the +English to come and take charge of us." One day as a merchant was taking +a bag of small coins from his safe to make a payment, he was warned not +to accumulate any large amount of these small coins, as they would +depreciate in value, if anything serious should happen to the Turkish +Government. With a look of disgust, he said, "I would gladly lose them +all and the silver coins, too, to be wholly rid of Turkey, once for +all." On another occasion a simple carriage driver expressed his views +in rough style, by saying, "Sir,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> the Devil himself would be an +improvement on the present state of things." Then more seriously, he +said, "We know we are not fitted for self-government, and what we want +most of all is England, or if that is impossible, then France." On a +railroad train there was one other passenger in the compartment with me. +While stopping at a station, something occurred to excite my companion +to violent abuse of the government. When he paused I said to him, "Sir, +how is it that you speak so, although you wear the fez?" He turned to me +and spoke most earnestly, but with no trace of excitement, saying, "Yes, +I am a Turk, and I am a Mohammedan, and nevertheless, I have no words +strong enough to express my contempt for the Turkish Government." All +these things are exceedingly sad, for it is an immeasurable loss to a +people if they cannot love and respect those whom they must obey.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XI</span></span> <span class="smaller">INTERRUPTIONS</span></h2> + +<p>Our life in Syria has been, on the whole, quiet, but it has not been +without its shadows. There is no life without its sorrows and unexpected +experiences. The comparative isolation of missionary life brings into +very close fellowship those who are cut off from the closer relationship +to friends in the homeland. One Sunday afternoon in the fall of 1906, I +was standing in the back of our chapel, awaiting the closing exercises +of the Sunday school. The telegraph messenger appeared at the door and +handed me a telegram, for which I signed without serious thought. When I +opened the paper and read the wholly unexpected message, all strength +seemed to leave me, and I hastened to a seat, lest I fall to the floor. +The message<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> told of the sudden death of my brother-in-law, Rev. W. K. +Eddy of Sidon, while away from home on a tour. We had considered him one +of the most vigorous men in the mission, for whom years of active +service might be expected, and now in a moment he had been called away, +leaving his family and his work to others. It took time to realize the +situation but some things had to be done at once. I called my servant +and sent him to secure an animal, as I had to start at once for Sidon. +Arrangements had to be made for my absence, and the sad news had to be +broken to the Tripoli circle of friends. By five o'clock I was ready to +start, and I shall never forget that night's ride. The first twenty +miles were covered in the early evening hours, on horseback over a +rough, stony road, while the question kept ringing through my mind, "Why +should this be?" About ten o'clock I reached the carriage road where I +could take a more comfortable and speedy conveyance. All through the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +dark night, as I jolted over the road, trying to get a little rest in +preparation for the hard day before me, I could not turn my mind from +the many problems connected with this sad experience. Who would take up +the work thus suddenly dropped? What plan would be made for the family +of growing children? The night was dark, but the dawn was approaching. +The way seemed dark, but the Father's love had brought us to this point +and he would not leave us to walk alone. In the early dawn, I reached +Beirut and found the missionary friends there ready to start for Sidon, +and so we all went on together, reaching the darkened home about noon. +The large assembly hall was filled in the afternoon for the funeral +services, and a great crowd of all classes of people marched out to the +cemetery, where the mortal remains of our loved brother and fellow +worker were laid away. Those are precious spots where we do the last +service on earth for those we have loved, but they are doubly precious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +on the mission field where the distance from the great body of family +friends and relatives is so deeply felt. But these occasions strengthen +the ties that bind us to the hearts and lives of those among whom we +live and whom we serve.</p> + +<p>We had scarcely adjusted ourselves to this sorrow when another of the +hard experiences of life came upon us. The season had been one of +exceptionally heavy work and continuous strain, which showed in a +decided break in health. The doctors said work must be dropped at once +and the winter be spent in Egypt, if a more serious break were to be +avoided. It was not exactly a pleasure excursion on which we started +during the Christmas holidays. There was no time to write ahead and make +inquiries or arrangements, so we set out to a strange land among +strangers, in search of health. Finding no place which seemed suitable +in lower Egypt, we decided to go up the river to Assiyut, and wrote a +letter to Dr. Alexander, president of the United<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> Presbyterian College +at that place. We had no personal acquaintance and no claim upon him, +but he was a missionary, and that was enough.</p> + +<p>It was a long ride and Egyptian railroads are nothing if not dusty. Our +spirits had not begun to rise yet, and we felt rather tired and wholly +disreputable in appearance, when we left the train at Assiyut, ready to +ask our way to the Greek hotel. But before we had a chance to do +anything, we saw a bright, cheery face, bearing an evident welcome, and +a hearty voice assuring us that the owner was Dr. Alexander and that he +had come to take us in charge. It was the first encouraging incident, +and lifted a weight from us at once. As we walked along he told us they +had held a conference over our case, and, having decided that we could +not be comfortable in the hotel, had placed at our disposal a rest room +provided in the hospital for members of their own mission or other +foreigners who needed rest and medical<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> attention. A more perfect +provision for our need could not have been devised. We enjoyed the +companionship of the corps of foreign nurses, sharing their table and +home life. We had the constant companionship as well as the professional +services of the four medical missionaries. Is it a wonder that I began +to gain at once? After nine weeks we returned to our work, made over and +with a new lease of life, a new sense of the solidarity of Christian +fellowship, and a new realization of the heavenly Father's tender care.</p> + +<p>Such experiences as that winter at Assiyut show how entirely +denominational differences are forgotten on the mission field. In social +intercourse, in the prayer circle, in discussion of mission problems, in +the church service, in the pulpit, there was never anything to remind us +that we were only Presbyterians while our kind hosts were United +Presbyterians. It was a delightful opportunity for the cultivation of +fellowship, and for the observation of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> other forms and methods of +mission work, under conditions very different from ours in Syria. The +work in Egypt is relieved from many of the problems so insistent in +Turkey. There is no hostile government, always suspicious of every move +made by a foreigner. There is no such inefficiency in the government as +makes the lives of Turkish subjects always insecure and travel +dangerous. But, on the other hand, the climatic conditions in Egypt are +far more trying than in Syria, as the heat is extremely enervating for +most of the year. These climatic conditions undoubtedly account to some +extent for the less virile, independent character of the people. But +whatever the differences in climate, whatever the differences in the +character of the people, whatever the differences in governmental +relations, we came back from Egypt more than ever impressed with the +fact that the conflict is one, the object aimed at is one, and the body +of workers is one, under the direction of our one Lord and Master.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p><p>In 1911 there came another break in the routine life of the field, but +with no such sorrow in it as in the former incidents. The second +Conference for Workers in Moslem Lands met in Lucknow in January 1911 +and our mission chose me as its delegate to that conference. The journey +through the Suez Canal and down the Red Sea and across the Arabian Sea +to Bombay was one of the experiences of life never to be forgotten. +There were enough of us going on the same journey to form a little group +of sympathetic companions and we had many an opportunity at table and on +deck to talk over the matters connected with our life work.</p> + +<p>The contrasts in the streets of Bombay are similar to those seen in all +the changing Orient, but with characteristic differences calculated to +catch the eye of one accustomed to the nearer East. Nowhere in Turkey do +you find such broad, magnificent, paved thoroughfares as those in +Bombay, and yet, beside the track of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> electric trolley, you see a +crude cart jogging along behind the humpbacked bullock. On the pavements +you see elaborately dressed ladies from Europe, or from the wealthy +Parsee families, with their Paris gowns and modern hats, and almost at +their elbows the dark-skinned members of the sweeper caste, clad in a +simple loin cloth. You step out of the finely appointed barber shop in +your modern hotel, with its polite, English-speaking attendant, to see +by the roadside a group of swarthy Indians, crouching on the ground, as +one of their number shaves the crowns of their heads.</p> + +<p>The tourist in Galilee in the spring of the year is impressed by the +variety and brilliancy of color all about him in the wild flowers of the +fields. As we walked the streets of Bombay, the same impression was made +upon us by the brightness and variety in the headdress of the men. If +there is any color known to the dyers' art not found among the turbans +of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>Bombay it is merely because no samples have as yet been sent there. +Every shape as well as every shade is found, and it would almost seem as +if the excessive attention paid to the head covering had exhausted the +energy of the people, leaving no desire or ability to devise any +covering for the rest of the body. A stranger may wonder also at first +why everyone seems to have forgotten to wash his face. Those curious +blotches of varicolored clay on the forehead are not accidental nor an +indication of carelessness to one's personal appearance. On the +contrary, they indicate fidelity to religious duty and reveal to the +initiated the special temple most recently visited by the devout +worshiper. For a transient visitor, this variety and intricacy are +puzzling, but to the initiated everything has its meaning and the +varieties of headdress tell the tale of religious affiliation and caste +gradation.</p> + +<p>Comfortable train service carried us quickly to the north, giving us +glimpses of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital, with its reminders of the +mutiny; and Agra with its matchless architectural gem, the Taj Mahal. We +reached Agra at the close of the day, and after locating ourselves at +the hotel, set out on foot to have our first glimpse of the Taj by +moonlight. No matter what one may have read of this wonderful building, +no matter what pictures or models one may have seen, I have yet to meet +a person who has not been most deeply impressed by the first vision of +the reality. The approach through the dark foliage of the quiet garden +gives a chance for the impressive grandeur of the marble structure to +fix itself in the visitor's mind. By the time he enters the spacious +archway, he has begun to appreciate the perfection of the curves, the +nobility of the dimensions, the purity of the white marble and the +graceful dignity of the whole combination. The beautifully inlaid black +lettering from the Koran follows the curves of the lofty arch overhead, +adding a sense<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> of sacredness to the entrance. And yet, when one is +inside, he almost forgets the impressions received without. In place of +stateliness and grandeur, we find here a beauty of finish and exactness +of detail which surpass all the more massive qualities of the exterior. +The central tomb is surrounded by a marble screen carved with a delicacy +that makes one forget the marble and think he sees before him the most +perfect and delicate lace veil. The pillars and panels of the screen, +the inner walls of the building, as well as the sides of the tomb +itself, are decorated with the most beautifully inlaid work of vines and +wreaths of flowers represented in their natural colors, in the most +delicate shades of precious stone. One wonders to find such exquisite +work anywhere and the wonder increases when one realizes that this is +not the product of modern skill and patience, but that it has stood +here, from the days of the Mogul Empire, when we consider that India was +a land of barbarians.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> And more than this is to follow, for this +wonderful mausoleum was erected at fabulous cost by a Moslem ruler, in +memory of his wife.</p> + +<p>We were not in India merely as sightseers. After a night ride on the +train we reached Lahore in the early morning and at the station received +the hearty welcome of J. C. R. Ewing, D.D., president of Forman +Christian College. Again in northern India we had the loving handclasp +of a fellow missionary and the cordial welcome to a missionary home. The +short visit there could give us but a faint impression of what that +college is doing for the Punjab and what a position and influence the +missionaries have among the people of every class, whether Indian or +British. Never did I have such a vivid impression of the awful +experiences of the mutiny, or the wonderful changes wrought by British +rule in India, as when I stood on some of the memorable spots at +Cawnpore and Lucknow, and reviewed the record of treachery<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> and loyalty, +cowardice and bravery, cruelty and gallantry, which were developed in +the awful experiences of the Mutiny. To-day, no matter what may be the +restlessness and uncertainty of the situation, India is a united +country, and not a medley of hostile principalities and warring +kingdoms. Railroads cover the land in every direction with an efficient +service. Perfect carriage roads make the land a paradise for motor cars +and bicycles. Military encampments near all the large cities assure +security of life and property. Schools and colleges are extending +knowledge in every direction. Wealth is taking place of poverty, +knowledge of ignorance, light of darkness, and religion is coming into +its own as a real force in human life and no longer as merely a badge of +faction or clan.</p> + +<p>The gathering at Lucknow was notable. Delegates of many nationalities +gathered in that hall. Workers in many lands and in widely differing +conditions, we came together for a common purpose. Members<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> of many +Christian denominations, we united in the worship of one Master. +Differences were forgotten in a deeper union. Whatever allegiance we +owed to earthly sovereigns, we met as children of the heavenly King. +Whatever may have been the language of our ordinary service, here we had +but one language—that of loving fellowship. We were members of separate +bands of commissioners, coming together at the feet of our Leader to ask +for fuller instructions in the pursuit of his work.</p> + +<p>The keynote of the Lucknow Conference was to win the Moslem world by +love, the love of Christ incarnate in his messenger. It is one of the +most hopeful signs in the advancement of the kingdom that the attractive +power of love is more prominent than the overwhelming power of argument. +It is a great help to the right placing of this emphasis that workers in +many lands, of many nations, of many denominations, are drawing nearer +together and working<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> more in harmony. I returned from India, rejoicing +in all I had seen of God's power and blessing in that land, but with a +deeper conviction that the work in India, in China, in Africa, in Syria +is all one work, under one Master.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XII</span></span> <span class="smaller">OUR SUPPORTERS</span></h2> + +<p>One of the brightest things in the missionary's happy lot is the +beautiful relation existing between those on the field and those whom +they represent in the homeland. Many years ago we were calling, one +evening, upon our landlord in Tripoli. The eldest son had recently +returned from America, and in the course of conversation the father +asked from what part of the United States we came, in order to see +whether his son had been in the same vicinity. The son at once replied: +"I know the name of the place, but I do not know in what state it is. +They come from Private Funds." We could not think at first what he +meant, but then discovered that he had found a missionary report among +some old magazines thrown<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> out from the house. In this he had seen our +names in a list of missionaries, giving the name of the society by which +each was supported. Seeing "Private Funds" opposite our names, he +thought it must be the name of the town from which we came, though, as +he said, he did not know in what state it was located. A little +knowledge is truly a dangerous thing.</p> + +<p>The relation indicated by those words, which has subsisted for +twenty-five years, has been most happy. When I was a senior in the +seminary and had already made my application to the Foreign Board, I +received a letter from Mr. George D. Dayton of Minnesota. He was the son +of an elder in my father's old church in Geneva, only a few years older +than I, but already a prosperous business man whose generosity in the +Lord's work was becoming well known. He urged upon me the need and +opportunity in the home mission field of the growing northwest. I +answered him, explaining as fully as I could, the reasons<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> that had led +me to decide that my life should be devoted to another field, realizing +that my answer would be a disappointment to him and might cause some +weakening of the ties of friendship already strong between us.</p> + +<p>The next that I heard of the subject was that Mr. Dayton had written to +the Foreign Board, assuming our support as the personal representatives +of his family in the foreign field. Thus, instead of weakening our +friendship, my choice was the beginning of a closer and warmer relation +than ever. It has always been recognized as a family matter, and I shall +never forget the comfort and strength that came to us in one of the +early years through a letter from Mr. Dayton. It was written on Sunday +afternoon, and contained words to this effect: "To-day was the time +appointed for the annual offering for foreign missions in our church. +Before going to church I gathered the family together and talked to the +children about you as our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> representatives in Syria. Then we united in +prayer at the family altar for God's blessing on you. At church I placed +in the collection my check for the amount I have pledged to the Board +for your support." Through letters and visits in the home when on +furlough, this delightful relation has grown more and more precious as +the years have passed, and it has been a pleasure to acknowledge that we +come from Private Funds, which, we are sure, is situated in the State of +Felicity, in the United States of Brotherly Love.</p> + +<p>It has been said that a missionary furlough is an excellent thing if it +is not needed too urgently. We have had two most thoroughly enjoyable +furloughs in the homeland, during our missionary life. Each visit to +America has tended to refresh and invigorate us most admirably for a new +period of service and we have added many to the circle of friends who +encourage us in our work and keep vigorous the connecting link with the +workers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> at home. The periods of our absence from America have had a +curious coincidence with the change in methods of locomotion in America. +When we first came to Syria in 1888, the horse car was still supreme in +American cities. Experimental lines of electric trolleys were being +tried in certain places, but I had never seen an electric car. When we +returned to America in 1897, we found the trolley in all the cities, and +I remember being disturbed, the first Sunday in Philadelphia, by a +strange whirring sound during the morning service. I could think of no +explanation except the weird creaking of the great water wheels in +Hamath, but there were no such waterworks in Philadelphia. I soon became +familiar with the hum of the trolley.</p> + +<p>During that first furlough, there was much written in the magazines +about automobiles, and people were wondering whether the auto would +really be practicable, but I did not see a machine. Our first sight of +an auto was in Cairo, in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> Egypt. We reached America on our second +furlough in 1908, and the first day on shore gave us our first ride in +an auto, which we found rapidly taking a recognized place in American +everyday life. Again the magazines had much to say about the aëroplane, +but we did not see one while in America. My first sight of a human flyer +was at Allahabad, in India. It looks now as if a ride in an aëroplane +might not be a strange experience in our third furlough.</p> + +<p>The meeting of earnest Christian workers all over the land, in +conventions and missionary meetings, is a real refreshment physically +and spiritually. So long as the missionary's health is good, he finds it +a joy to speak for the cause and mingle with the workers at home. I +traveled a good many miles to meet appointments on each furlough. I +spoke on many platforms, and the cordial welcome extended and the close +attention paid to the message were an ample reward for whatever there +was of fatigue in the service. Many times I felt<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> humiliated by what +seemed to me the extreme and unmerited deference paid to us, simply +because we were foreign missionaries. So far as Syria is concerned, the +missionary of to-day asks for no sympathy on the score of physical +privations. We are in close touch with European and American +civilization. We can obtain whatever is necessary for physical wellbeing +and comfort. The climate is not excessively enervating and we can have +good homes. There are many things that are trying in the life of a +missionary, but no more so than in the lives of many workers in the +homeland.</p> + +<p>The isolation from friends and relatives is often one of the most trying +features of missionary life. When sickness or death enter the family +circle far away, it is not easy to think of the miles of restless ocean +that lie between us and them. The whole unchristian, unsympathetic +atmosphere makes life hard at times, but the compensations are so many +that it makes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> one ashamed to be held up as a model of self-sacrifice. +The missionary feels, as the earnest worker at home feels, and as Paul +felt years ago, when he said, "The love of Christ constraineth us."</p> + +<p>The first home-going was peculiarly happy, for in neither of the two +family circles had there been any break. The only changes had come by +marriage and birth. The circles were expanding, and there was no place +vacated during the period of our absence. The second going was very +different in this respect. Many who had been vigorous were feeble. Many +who had bidden us a bright farewell were not present to welcome us on +our return. Children had become men and women. There were wrinkles on +the faces and gray hair on the heads of those whom we had expected to +find still as young as we were. But, somehow, it began to dawn on us +that we ourselves were no longer counted among the young folks in the +church.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span></p><p>The general recollection of those two furloughs is one of bright smiles +and cheery welcomes, helpful handclasps and a joyous fellowship.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XIII</span></span> <span class="smaller">PERSONAL FRIENDS</span></h2> + +<p>It was one of the most delightful phases of our experience in charge of +the boys' school to find how closely the ties of love to the boys bound +them to our hearts, and to realize that with many of them it was no mere +oriental compliment when they called us their father and mother. There +are many of those lads, now growing to manhood, in whose successes we +take a parental pride, and for whose growth in all that is good and true +we pray, with parental earnestness. Among the many preachers and +teachers in all the churches and schools, we count many as most truly +our brethren and fellow workers for the Master. There are very many +Syrians in all parts of America, as well as in this land, of whom we +think in terms of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> truest brotherhood. It is with no sense of +disparagement to the multitude that I have selected three of the elders +in our churches for special mention. It has seemed to me, as I look back +over their lives, that there are some specially suggestive elements in +the way the Lord has led them and blessed them, which are worthy of +special note. At the same time these experiences have brought all three +into specially close relations with myself personally. I shall mention +them in the order of the commencement of my acquaintance with them.</p> + +<p>In 1885, before I entered the mission, I was for a few months in Syria, +merely as a visitor. It happened that the College in Beirut was +short-handed that year, and in need of an additional teacher. Dr. Bliss +asked me to help them out and so I became for two months a member of the +teaching force in the preparatory department. During this time I made +the acquaintance of a lad in the senior class of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> that department, named +Towfik Sallum. He was a quiet, studious lad, who made no trouble and was +always busy with his books or seeking to increase his English +vocabulary. In the brief time of my remaining in the college, my +acquaintance was slight and the memory of this boy would have passed +from my mind, had there been no subsequent association. When I became a +member of the Tripoli Station and made the acquaintance of the various +workers in the field, I found that this lad was the brother of the +preacher in Hamath. Their father had been the first preacher in that +church, and upon his death the eldest son had succeeded to his father's +position in the church, as well as to the parental responsibility for +the care and training of his younger brothers. Towfik spent some years +in the service of the mission as teacher, in intervals of his college +course. In 1892 he was graduated with honor, and in 1896 took his degree +in medicine also. He settled at once in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> Hamath, where he was well known +personally, and where his family associations made a valuable +professional asset. The conditions of life in ancient Hamath are +exceedingly primitive and only a small portion of the population have +any intelligent appreciation of the value of modern medicine. +Perseverance and tact won their way and a valuable practice was built +up. With increasing years and widening acquaintance, the doctor became +generally known, universally trusted, and highly respected in government +circles as well as among the people. In case the governor wished a +reliable report on any case of attack or murder, he was sure to send Dr. +Sallum to investigate. He was to be trusted to tell the truth.</p> + +<p>When the new constitution was promulgated in 1908, it was provided that +all religious sects were to be entitled to representation in the local +administrative courts in rotation, irrespective of the size of those +bodies. Formerly only the largest of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> Christian sects had been +allowed representation. This provision gave the Protestants a right to +civil equality and they put forward Dr. Sallum as their representative. +He was accepted, and served most creditably for the term of two years. +It was then the turn of the Catholic sect to have a representative, and +the heads of the various bodies were summoned by the governor to arrange +for the choice of the new member. The governor explained the situation +and said that as the Protestants had held the office for two years, it +was now the right of the Catholics to choose a representative to succeed +the Protestant member. Then, turning to the Catholic priest, he said, +"If you have a candidate who is more capable than Dr. Sallum or who is +his equal, we shall be glad to welcome him, but if not, I should advise +you to ask him to continue in office, acting now as representative of +the Catholics." The priest replied most cordially that his sect would be +delighted to be represented by Dr.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> Sallum, if he would consent. In this +way the doctor has become practically a permanent member of the +governor's council, acting alternately for the Protestants and the +Catholics. At the same time the proud member of the large Greek Orthodox +sect has to give place every two years to the member chosen by the +Jacobite church.</p> + +<p>In 1892 I was in Homs for the administration of the sacraments. Among +those who came in on Saturday evening was Mr. Rafool Nasser, a young man +who had not been long identified with the Protestant church. He told me +that he wished to have his little girl baptized the next day. He had +been married for several years and this was the first child, so the +occasion was one of more than usual joy. The next morning, before the +service began, I saw Mr. Nasser come in and take a seat quite at the +back of the church, contrary to his usual custom. He seemed depressed +and I wondered what had occurred. When the time came for baptisms he +made no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> move to come forward and so I proceeded with the children who +were presented. At the close of the service I inquired into the matter, +and learned that Mr. Nasser had informed his wife the evening before +that the little girl was to be baptized the next day. His wife then +informed him that she had already had the child baptized secretly by the +priest. This explained the depression I had noticed in the father's +face. Two years later the parents stood together while I baptized the +second child, and all the others have been presented without question +for the rite of baptism. This was the beginning of my acquaintance with +Mr. Nasser, with whom I have been somewhat intimate in recent years.</p> + +<p>He was a man of prominent family in Homs and has been highly prospered +in business, having become one of the most substantial men of the city. +Most of the successful men of Homs owe their prosperity to business +conducted in Egypt. They spend the winters in Egypt, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>advancing money to +the peasants on their cotton crops and also furnishing them certain +classes of imported goods on credit. It has been a profitable business, +even to those who have not been led away by the temptation of avarice to +impose on the simplicity of the Egyptian peasant. On one occasion I was +talking to Mr. Nasser about the high standards of morality obligatory on +the true Christian merchant. He then told me the following incident in +the simplest manner. As a young man he started with his cousin on a very +small capital. They invested their cash capital in stock for their +little store, purchasing so far as they could on credit. Mr. Nasser +returned to Homs, leaving his cousin in charge of the business in Egypt. +Scarcely had he reached home when word came of the complete destruction +of their store and all its contents by fire. It was a heavy blow for the +young men, and the first impulse was to go through bankruptcy, settle up +as well as they could and give<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> up the enterprise. Friends and creditors +came to their help and volunteered to scale down their claims and +furnish new capital for the two men to start again. They were prospered +from the beginning. After some years Mr. Rafool Nasser decided that he +was unwilling to have the friends who were so kind to him suffer from +the old loss. He wrote to his cousin, saying that he had no wish to +control his partner's action, but asking him to pay off his share of +those old losses carried by their friends after the fire, and charge the +amount against his personal account. The cousin wrote back, "Whatever +you do, I shall do also." In the light of this incident, will anyone say +that commercial honor is confined to the West?</p> + +<p>There was a long period of hesitation, after Mr. Nasser was convinced +intellectually of the truth of the evangelical faith, before he joined +the Church. He has explained this to me in the following way: He knew +that if he gave in his adherence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> to the Protestant doctrine, his +conscience would require him to give far more of his possessions than he +had been accustomed to do in the Greek church. It took a long time to +bring his will to yield. In fact, his head was reached before his purse +was opened. He gave up the conflict at last and then said, in closing +the account of his experience, "I've gotten way beyond that now, for I +have learned the joy of giving." He is not a millionaire, but the Lord +has blessed him with considerable property, and he recognizes his +position as that of steward. He has been the leading spirit in the +enterprises of the Homs church, spoken of in another place.</p> + +<p>About the end of the year 1895, I was sitting one evening in my study +when the bell rang, and one of my neighbors, Mr. Yusuf Faris, entered. +He laid on my desk a bundle of Turkish silver dollars, amounting to some +thirty dollars American money. He said he had been looking over his +accounts for the year and found this balance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> in his tithe account, and +so he wished me to use it for him in a way that he indicated, in the +furtherance of the Lord's business. This was a little matter, but it was +a true index to the man. A few years previous to this he had moved to +the city from a neighboring village. Among his motives for this move was +to avoid being forced into a political position he felt to be +inconsistent with his new position as a Protestant Christian. He decided +to open a dry-goods store in the city, but was unwilling to conduct +business in the ordinary way of the country. He rented a very small shop +and brought his stock of goods from Beirut. He decided upon a fair +profit, and set his price on the goods. People were not accustomed to +this method and so were slow to buy from the new shop. When they found +him unvarying in his prices, they went away to buy elsewhere, getting, +perhaps, an inferior article at a slightly lower price. Mr. Faris had +his full share of determination and was not to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> be turned back from the +course upon which he had decided. He had an unfailingly pleasant manner +with everyone, and showed no resentment at those who bought elsewhere. +For months the sales in this little shop were not enough to pay the +rent, but there was no change of policy. Gradually people began to +compare more carefully and discovered that in no case were they able to +buy the same quality of goods elsewhere for less than Mr. Faris' first +price. They began to realize that it was a distinct saving of time and +temper to avoid the long haggling over prices to which they had been +accustomed. By degrees they began to buy from Mr. Faris, and it was not +long before some of the country shopkeepers would come to him with a +list of goods and ask to have them put up without even asking the +prices. Business grew, a larger shop was necessary, two shops, three +shops, until at present his goods fill three large storerooms, while a +fourth is necessary for his office and bookkeeping.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> Two months seldom +pass, and often less than a month, between trips to Beirut for fresh +goods, and he and his three grown sons are kept busy handling the +undertaking.</p> + +<p>In every good enterprise, in Tripoli, or in presbytery, Mr. Yusuf Faris +is a leader, with clear advice and generous subscriptions. When the home +mission work of the presbytery was organized, he was one of the leaders, +and has continued to be the main support of the work. When the plans for +the Tripoli Boys' School were under consideration and there was some +danger that lack of money and other considerations might necessitate the +removal of the school from Tripoli, Mr. Faris and his sons came forward +with a generous offer of financial help, during a period of years +aggregating nearly eighteen hundred dollars. This made him the third +largest individual donor and we were glad to place his picture among +those on the wall of the school reception room. In all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> the intercourse +of these years, while watching the growth and development of character +in this man, there has grown in my own heart a strength of personal +attachment such as I have seldom felt for any other in America or in Syria.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XIV</span></span> <span class="smaller">TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL</span></h2> + +<p>The one enterprise which stands out most conspicuously in our life in +Syria and which has absorbed more of our thought and activity than any +other, is the boarding school for boys in Tripoli. In the earlier years +of our work in Tripoli field, I found an important item to be the +selection of promising candidates from the pupils in the village schools +for further education in one of the mission boarding schools. We were +anxious to encourage the higher education of boys, for in this respect +as in many others, north Syria is more backward than other parts of the +country. Means of communication were poor and it was not an easy thing +for people to send their children to a distance of four or five days' +travel. We used<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> every means at our disposal to persuade reluctant +parents, offering free tuition and sometimes traveling expenses and help +with clothing. By all these means we could gather, from the whole +territory, a dozen, or fifteen, or, at most, twenty boys, whose parents +were willing to send them to school.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i173a.jpg" id="i173a.jpg"></a><img src="images/i173a.jpg" alt="TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL First Home" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL</p> + +<p class="right"><i>First Home</i></p></div> + +<div class="center"><a name="i173b.jpg" id="i173b.jpg"></a><img src="images/i173b.jpg" alt="TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL Second Home" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Second Home</i></p></div> + +<p>But emigration to America gradually opened the eyes of the people to the +commercial advantages of education. Ignorant parents who had gone abroad +began to send back money, with urgent instructions to put their boys in +the American schools. We found the number of applicants increasing and a +new willingness to pay, in part at least, for the education. Instead of +a dozen, we had sixty or more to provide for and the tide was rising. +Conditions were the same elsewhere and it was not easy for the other +schools to receive this larger number from our district. Why, then, +should our boys go so far from home?</p> + +<p>The eagerness of some of these lads to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> gain an education went to our +hearts, and the hardest thing we had to do was to refuse an earnest +pleader for whom we had no place left. One day in Homs a young man came +to me, pleading for a place in Sidon. He was making his own living as an +artisan, and had only a simple education. I wished to test his pluck and +pointed out all the difficulties in the way of one in his circumstances. +He had thought it all out and said he could work at his trade in the +summer vacations and earn enough for his clothing. But it was a five +days' journey to Sidon, and the cost of the journey must be provided for +in some way. There was not a moment's hesitation as he said, "I'll +walk." And he did walk, showing a manly contempt for obstacles in the +way of gaining an education.</p> + +<p>This growing demand for an education such as our American schools give, +with the increasing ability of many to pay the cost, seemed a clear call +for action. Our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> mission had been criticized for putting too much energy +and money into education, so it seemed a chance at the same time to take +a step in advance in the line of self-support. I did not wish to go +before the mission with my proposition until I had it well supported. +For this reason I wrote to Mr. George D. Dayton who has supported us +through all our missionary life, and laid the matter before him, making +two distinct requests. If such a school were to be a success, it must +have its own permanent premises, especially adapted to its use, and I +asked whether he would help us to secure this for the school. It did not +seem wise to wait however for the accomplishment of this purpose to open +the school. I was confident, myself, that the school could be made +self-supporting if the premises were provided, but I wished a guarantee +to lay before the mission, and so asked Mr. Dayton to underwrite the +enterprise to the extent of three hundred dollars a year, in case of a +deficit. He <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>responded promptly, acceding to both requests. I was ready +then to go before the mission. Our proposition called for two things +from the Board, the addition of a missionary to our Tripoli station and +provision of rent for premises in which to open the school temporarily. +Both requests were granted and we were authorized to go ahead, even +before receiving our additional missionary.</p> + +<p>Ten years after opening the school, owing to removals and delay for +language study, the whole work of the station, with the addition of the +school, still rests on the shoulders of two men, who live in hope of +having their new associate, promised ten years ago. It has been like the +pursuit of a mirage or the fatuous end of the rainbow. More than once we +have given a sigh of satisfaction and said, "Well, next year, or at +latest, the year after, we shall be able to settle down to normal lines +and really do our work right." An emergency has always arisen somewhere, +our pleasant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> dreams have faded away, and we have settled down again to +try to carry the extra load; but each time this is done, the weight +seems to press more heavily and a sense of discouragement steals into +the tired heart.</p> + +<p>We were ready to begin school in 1903 and had laid in some supplies for +the coming year, when cholera appeared in the land, interfering with all +lines of travel and communication. It was decided to postpone the +opening until the next year and special plans for temporary work were +made for the various teachers. In October 1904 the Tripoli Boys' School +opened its doors, and there was every indication of hearty support. We +had planned to begin on a very small scale with only twenty boarders. We +had rented a house in which the boys were to sleep and study, the +kitchen and dining room being in the basement. Before the day of opening +we had thirty-two insistent applicants and wanted very much to receive +them all. Rooms were rented across the street for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> study and recitation +purposes, releasing for a dormitory the large room before assigned to +study. This, with extra crowding of the beds, made room, and the whole +number were admitted. The beds were very crude, being merely boards laid +across rude iron supports. Everything was as simple as possible.</p> + +<p>We were all inexperienced in school administration and had about as much +to learn as did the boys, but that first year was a year of real +delight. The school was small and the family feeling was encouraged in +every way. Every Sunday evening the boys came to our home for a social +sing, and we learned that the neighbors looked forward to the enjoyment +of the volume of boyish voices that rang out on the evening air. In the +middle of the year it was possible to transfer the school to much more +commodious quarters, where all school and household functions could be +under one roof. The most satisfactory feature, perhaps, was the +financial outcome.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> When the books were closed, at the end of the year, +there was no deficit to be provided for, and so our highest +anticipations seemed to be justified. This has continued to be the +normal record of the school, the current income providing for the +current expense, excepting the item of rent. The second year we were +able to start in with American desks, and iron beds in the dormitories, +and had an enrollment of sixty pupils.</p> + +<p>A detailed history of the school would make this chapter too long, but +its growth and success have meant a great deal to us in our missionary +life. In 1909, when we returned from our second furlough, we had a +sufficient building fund to justify definite plans for the permanent +home of the school. It was not easy to decide on the best location. +Every place suggested had advantages and disadvantages. We could not +visit any locality in the most casual way without very largely +increasing the value of land in the vicinity. We looked<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> at land near +the sea, in the gardens, on each side of the city, but gradually all +minds turned to an olive orchard on the brow of the hill just north of +the city. It might not be possible to purchase it, but we all agreed +that it was the place we wanted, if it could be obtained. Inquiry +revealed the fact that this piece of property belonged to a family of +brothers and sisters who held it as joint heritage from their father. +One of the brothers got the whole into his possession, excepting the +share of one sister, whose claim was something less than one-twelfth. +Her husband was an avaricious fellow who thought he could hold us up for +whatever he might demand. We purchased the remainder of the property, +but could do nothing toward building until our partner's share should be +set off and a legal division made. We proposed every possible division +but nothing was acceptable. We tried the courts and found it almost as +hopeless as Dickens' picture of chancery. Finally an amicable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> +adjudication and division out of court was arranged by common friends. +We went to the hill with professional measurers and proceeded to lay off +our partner's portion. When he was convinced that we would prefer to +give him at the north end, he promptly announced that he would take the +south part, which was after all much to our advantage. Then the boundary +was laid out very exactly, giving him his full share. After the peg had +been carefully set, his son petulantly moved it a foot or more farther +on our side, evidently intending to irritate us into a refusal of the +division. We consented, however, the division wall was erected, the +legal papers drawn up and our property was secured.</p> + +<p>The next step was to obtain a building permit from the government. Every +official is suspicious of every other, and each is watching for a chance +to enter a complaint against the other. From one office we went to +another, with favorable reports from the city engineer, but nothing was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> +accomplished. There seemed to be no valid objection anywhere, and we +were assured that the permit would be sent back as soon as our petition +reached Constantinople. After long waiting, instead of the permit there +came back another series of inquiries on points already fully explained. +Preliminary work on cisterns, foundations and preparation of stone was +in full progress, but the winter passed and no permit was received. At +last a new governor came to Tripoli who for some reason took a personal +interest in bringing the matter to a conclusion. He sent vigorous +letters and telegrams to Constantinople and in due time the permit was +issued, and at the end of May 1912, work was begun on the building +proper. Every means was used to push work forward as fast as possible, +through the summer and fall, so as to have the roof on before the rains +came. The walls were completed, the roof timbers in place, but where +were the tiles? These had been ordered long in advance, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> were known +to be on the way. Just at this unfortunate moment war between Turkey and +Greece was declared and it appeared that our tiles were coming in a +Greek steamer, which could not now approach a Turkish port. The fall +rains came down on our roofless building and it was not until January +that the tiles were received. When they arrived, there was great +rejoicing. The workmen all left their tools to help unload the wagons. +The schoolboys went up on the hill and, forming lines from the ground to +the roof of the building, passed up the tiles from hand to hand with +shouts and songs of joy. No damage had been done the building, since the +rains tended to set the stone walls and cement flooring more perfectly, +but the plastering and carpenter work for the interior were delayed, and +the precious rain water for the cisterns was lost.</p> + +<p>After the roof was finished, work progressed rapidly and the utility and +beauty of the building developed every day more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> and more clearly. When +Easter vacation came everything was ready, and in the absence of the +boys, the school furniture was moved up to the new building so that all +was in good order when vacation was over. The new term opened in the new +home.</p> + +<p>On May 21, 1913, the day was given over to the dedication of the new +building, and a happier day than that has not come in the history of the +school. In the forenoon, there were races and athletic sports, with a +football game on the playground behind the building. In the afternoon, +hosts of friends and neighbors inspected the building and grounds, and +at four o'clock the Assembly Hall was crowded with the pupils and their +friends. On the platform sat the governor and president of the +municipality, with the missionaries and teachers. The boys sang heartily +their songs of welcome and a special dedication hymn written for the +occasion from the text, "Except Jehovah build the house, they labor in +vain that build it." Their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> voices rang out especially as their +handkerchiefs waved in their own school song in honor of T. B. S.</p> + +<p>This building is rich in significance, for it is a memorial throughout. +The main fund was raised in honor of my father, and so the building is +to be known as the Henry A. Nelson Memorial. Smaller sums were given as +special memorials to relatives of the givers, and the bell in the tower +was given by parents of a young man, their only son, who was called to +the heavenly home just before his twenty-first birthday. Those parents +have the comfort of feeling that their son's voice is still calling in +the tones of that bell to the lads of Syria, and so still serving the +Master.</p> + +<p>Our rejoicing in the new building was great, but not complete. With all +our efforts it was not possible to finish the top story of the building, +and the friends of the school will have plenty of opportunity to help us +improve and increase our facilities in the service of the youth of north Syria.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XV</span></span> <span class="smaller">MOVING</span></h2> + +<p>In 1910 the Syria mission decided upon an advance. The constitution had +been declared in Turkey and everyone hoped that a new era had really +begun for the people of the empire. Whatever might be the political +results, there were clear signs of industrial improvement. The German +railroad was being pushed toward Bagdad. Work was progressing rapidly on +the line from Tripoli to Homs. There could be but little doubt that the +importance of Homs as a commercial center would be greatly enhanced in +the near future. The strong evangelical community had been urgent for +years that a missionary family live in Homs. This was finally decided +upon and the choice of the mission fell on us. There are very few houses +for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> rent in Homs, and hence it seemed necessary to plan for a +missionary residence as soon as possible. An appropriation was made from +the Kennedy bequest for this purpose, and a piece of land was acquired +from the management of the Syrian Evangelical Boarding School.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i189a.jpg" id="i189a.jpg"></a><img src="images/i189a.jpg" alt="HOMS" /></div> + +<p class="bold">HOMS</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i189b.jpg" id="i189b.jpg"></a><img src="images/i189b.jpg" alt="HEATHEN TEMPLE AND MOUNT HERMON" /></div> + +<p class="bold">HEATHEN TEMPLE AND MOUNT HERMON</p> + +<p>Moving in Syria is a different proposition from what it is in America. +There are no professional packers. The missionary must do his own +packing, if he would avoid excessive breakage. He must keep an eye on +the porters as they put his goods in the wagons. He must oversee the +freight men as they stow away the goods in the cars. At the Homs end of +the line every piece had to be carried to its destination on the back of +a donkey or a mule. It was no easy matter to balance some of the large +boxes on the insecure saddles, but it was all accomplished with time and +patience, with very little injury.</p> + +<p>We secured a little house in the city for six months, which could be +occupied while<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> the new house was in process of erection. It was a +curious little place but the owner was very proud of it. There was a +minaret directly across the narrow street, so we had the call to prayer +almost over our heads five times a day. The section of the city was +known as the Grass Market, because it was occupied largely by +greengrocers. We were awakened early every morning by the merchants +calling their wares and all day long could hear cries like this: "Oh, +plums, O generous one, a penny a pound: health and strength come from +God, Oh, plums, Oh, plums." The woodwork and windows of this little +house were so poorly constructed that it was impossible to keep anything +clean. The strong wind, which gathered up straw and dirt, seemed to +discharge its load all day long in the various rooms of that little +house.</p> + +<p>In October the new mission house was ready for occupancy and we gladly +made the transfer to this permanent home. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> city of Homs is perfectly +flat and quite compact. The streets are narrow and crooked, the houses +low, usually but one story high. The better houses are built of black +volcanic stone and the poorer houses of sun-dried brick. As a rule the +street wall is a dead blank surface, with merely a doorway admitting to +the inclosed courtyard. All this gives the city a dull, depressing +appearance. The old city was surrounded by a wall and a deep moat, and +at the south side, on a high hill, was the ancient castle faced with +black stone. This castle has been a complete ruin for over seventy years +and the city has outgrown its walls and spread across the moat.</p> + +<p>The Evangelical School and the American mission house lie to the south +of the castle hill, on a rise of ground among the vineyards. Many houses +are being built near us, but we are still the vanguard to the south. +Directly opposite to us on the north side of the city is the great +mosque<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> of Sayid Khalid, said to have cost sixteen thousand pounds. It +is a beautiful building, but recently completed. Between us and it lies +the old city, with its seventy thousand plain people. At present a vast +majority of the population look to the north rather than to the south, +but it is our strong hope that the more vital strength represented by +Christian education and Christian homes will win the victory over this +great city and the surrounding country, so that all shall be won for +Christ.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i196a.jpg" id="i196a.jpg"></a><img src="images/i196a.jpg" alt="HAMIDIYEH MOSQUE Tripoli" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">HAMIDIYEH MOSQUE</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Tripoli</i></p></div> + +<div class="center"><a name="i196b.jpg" id="i196b.jpg"></a><img src="images/i196b.jpg" alt="OLD CITY GATE Tripoli" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">OLD CITY GATE</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Tripoli</i></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XVI</span></span> <span class="smaller">THE MUEZZIN OR THE BELL</span></h2> + +<p>As the close of this little record comes near, there appears before me a +contrast or a conflict. Shall Syria continue, as in the past, dominated +by the minaret and all it signifies, or shall the church bell be heard +more clearly and more truly than it has been in the past?</p> + +<p>Many years ago, in the city of Homs, the large and influential Orthodox +Greek community wished to put up a bell in their church. This was found +to be wholly impossible because of the unyielding bigotry and hostility +of the Moslem community and the government. Finally the bishop consented +to hang up a slab of hard, thoroughly seasoned wood, and this was struck +with a mallet at the time of worship, to call the people together. After +quite a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> long interval, when the controversy was largely forgotten, this +wooden slab was quietly exchanged for one of steel, and a clearer sound +was obtained. This created a little disturbance, but was quickly +accepted as an accomplished fact, for it is a common saying in Turkey: +"Whatever is done is permitted. Whatever is requested is forbidden." +After another long interval a large bell was sent from Russia for this +Homs Church of the Forty Martyrs. In view of the relations of Turkey to +Russia, no open opposition could be shown, and the bell was brought with +great demonstrations of joy and put in its place where it rings to call +the people to worship. Following the lead of this strongest of the +Christian communities, all the others have brought bells since, and they +are in regular use. But the near city of Hamath waited some years longer +before hearing its first regular church bell.</p> + +<p>Many years ago an old sheik in Tripoli was calling on me. He was +intelligent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> and friendly and I felt that I could speak with him +somewhat freely. When I said to him that the voice of the muezzin in the +neighboring mosque was not so clear as it might be, he told me the +following incident in his father's life: The French consul in Tripoli +lived near a mosque. The muezzin had a musical voice, and the consul +enjoyed hearing the call to prayer in the summer evenings. For some +reason this man was removed and another put in his place, whose voice +was harsh and unpleasant. A few days later the consul arrayed himself in +official style, and with the attendance of his cavasses in full regalia, +he went to call on the old sheik, the father of my informant. It was not +a feast day nor time for official calls, so his coming in this manner +created some astonishment and a little uneasiness. After the ordinary +salutations had been exchanged, the consul addressed the sheik in formal +manner, to this effect: "I have come to-day, officially to convey to +you<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> my own personal thanks and that of the government I represent for +the great favor you have done me." The sheik was even more astonished at +this opening, and protested that nothing worthy of such recognition had +been done. "Yes," said the consul, "you may not have been aware of the +great kindness done, but it is no less worthy of note. In the mosque +near my house there was a muezzin who gave the daily call to prayer in a +voice that went to the heart of the hearer, and it would not have been +strange if he had won my allegiance to Islam. Now, however, he has been +removed and a man with a harsh, repellant voice put in his place, so +there is no longer any danger that the representative of a Christian +nation should deny his faith and follow Islam. For this reason, I convey +to you officially and personally my most profound thanks." No sooner had +the caller taken his leave than orders were sent to have the +sweet-voiced muezzin restored to his former position in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>vicinity of +the consulate. The keen consul had gained what he wanted and what a +direct request might not have accomplished. No offense was given and all +were pleased.</p> + +<p>After he had told me this story, I said, "Sheik Ali, there are two +things which I grudge to you Mohammedans; one is the custom of summoning +people to divine worship by the call of the human voice rather than by a +metallic bell; and the other is the exclusive use among yourselves of +the salutation, 'Peace be to you.'" When one Moslem meets another, he +salutes him, "Peace be to you," and the other responds, "And on you be +the peace of God." A Moslem will never intentionally give this +salutation to a Christian. I continued, "That salutation belongs to the +Christians more than to you, for it was the farewell message from our +Master to his disciples, when he said, 'Peace I leave with you; my peace +I give unto you.'"</p> + +<p>Which is it to be in Syria? Shall the separation continue, and one large +part of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> the population heed the call to prayer by the human voice from +the minaret, while another part worship the same God in the churches in +answer to the summons of a bell? This unfortunate state of affairs will +never cease until the heart of the Christian Church is so full of the +love of Christ and his perfect peace that the Moslem population shall +hear through them a louder cry than the voice of the muezzin, calling +them to worship the one living God, and to know him through the perfect +life of his only Son, our Lord. "Come unto me, all ye that labor and are +heavy laden, and I will give you rest."</p> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44122 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/44122-h/images/cover.jpg b/44122-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1d31787 --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i004.jpg b/44122-h/images/i004.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2f8d1d6 --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i004.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i005.jpg b/44122-h/images/i005.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..91a864b --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i005.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i049a.jpg b/44122-h/images/i049a.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6f90d73 --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i049a.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i049b.jpg b/44122-h/images/i049b.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4a87e3f --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i049b.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i070.jpg b/44122-h/images/i070.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dbce55f --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i070.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i094a.jpg b/44122-h/images/i094a.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b55e9c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i094a.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i094b.jpg b/44122-h/images/i094b.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..11b9854 --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i094b.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i125.jpg b/44122-h/images/i125.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ccafd5c --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i125.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i173a.jpg b/44122-h/images/i173a.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..68b2baf --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i173a.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i173b.jpg b/44122-h/images/i173b.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e1bb90 --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i173b.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i189a.jpg b/44122-h/images/i189a.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5f09baf --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i189a.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i189b.jpg b/44122-h/images/i189b.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e62b60c --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i189b.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i196a.jpg b/44122-h/images/i196a.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..55f5564 --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i196a.jpg diff --git a/44122-h/images/i196b.jpg b/44122-h/images/i196b.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b537e04 --- /dev/null +++ b/44122-h/images/i196b.jpg diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e8fa160 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #44122 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/44122) diff --git a/old/44122-8.txt b/old/44122-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c61ff9 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/44122-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3088 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Silver Chimes in Syria, by W. S. Nelson + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Silver Chimes in Syria + Glimpses of a Missionary's Experiences + +Author: W. S. Nelson + +Release Date: November 7, 2013 [EBook #44122] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA *** + + + + +Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA + + +[Illustration: HENRY A. NELSON MEMORIAL + +_Tripoli Boys' School_] + + + + +SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA + +GLIMPSES OF A MISSIONARY'S EXPERIENCES + +BY +W. S. NELSON, D.D., +AUTHOR OF "HABEEB THE BELOVED" + +[Illustration: Logo] + +PHILADELPHIA +THE WESTMINSTER PRESS +1914 + + +COPYRIGHT, 1914 + +BY F. M. BRASELMANN + + + + +DEDICATION + +JULY 17, 1888. CINCINNATI, OHIO. + + _This book is affectionately inscribed to her who has been the + companion of my life for twenty-five years; my helper in all my + work; my cheer and comfort in all circumstances; the maker of my + home; the source of all that is silvery in the chimes that ring + to-day._ + + HOMS, SYRIA, JULY 17, 1913. + + + + +PREFACE + + +When a tourist is seated on the deck of a steamer, waiting to leave the +country in which he has enjoyed an outing, his eyes do not seek the +low-lying shore of the sea, for the memories he would retain hereafter. +He lifts his eyes to the overhanging mountains. Nor is it the whole +massive range that holds his vision. He looks instinctively to the +scattered, lofty summits which stand aloof as it were from the monotony +of the lower range. Especially as the sun sinks below the western +horizon do his eyes dwell lovingly on those highest peaks which are +colored with the light of the setting sun. + +My purpose in sending out this collection of sketches is somewhat the +same. I have not attempted a continuous narrative, with all the monotony +of repeated acts, but have sought to make vivid to the reader some of +the more conspicuous features of missionary life, in the hope of +deepening sympathy with the workers and increasing zeal in the work. +That is my excuse for the free use of the personal pronoun, not to make +prominent the person, but to emphasize the reality. May the volume be +enjoyed by our fellow workers in America, and blessed by Him whom we all +serve. + + + + +CONTENTS + +CHAPTER PAGE + I. ARRIVAL IN SYRIA 3 + + II. LANGUAGE STUDY 14 + + III. TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION 19 + + IV. EVANGELISTIC TRIPS 34 + + V. ALEPPO 53 + + VI. NEW STATIONS AND BUILDINGS 65 + + VII. CAMPING LIFE 75 + +VIII. PERSECUTION 87 + + IX. EMIGRATION 94 + + X. SYRIAN ENTERPRISES 104 + + XI. INTERRUPTIONS 111 + + XII. OUR SUPPORTERS 127 + +XIII. PERSONAL FRIENDS 136 + + XIV. TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL 150 + + XV. MOVING 164 + + XVI. THE MUEZZIN OR THE BELL 169 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + PAGE +Henry A. Nelson Memorial--_Tripoli Boys' School_ _Frontispiece_ + +Latakia Boys' School _Facing Page_ 34 + +Tartoose--_Crusaders' Church_ 34 + +Aleppo Minaret 53 + +Hadeth Summer Home 75 + +Abu Maroon, the Hadeth Carpenter 75 + +Homs--_Boys' School_ 104 + +Tripoli Boys' School--_First Home_ 150 + +Tripoli Boys' School--_Second Home_ 150 + +Homs 164 + +Heathen Temple and Mount Hermon 164 + +Hamidiyeh Mosque--_Tripoli_ 169 + +Old City Gate--_Tripoli_ 169 + + + + +SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA + + + + +CHAPTER I + +ARRIVAL IN SYRIA + + +Every individual makes a new personal discovery, as with the passage of +years, he realizes the difference between the long look forward over a +given period, and the look backward over the same period, when it is +completed. To the new arrival on the field the veteran of twenty-five +years' experience appears to have spent a very long time in the service; +but as he looks back over his own life, at the end of a similar period, +he wonders that he ever entertained such an opinion. Looking back to the +year 1888, the events of that time do not seem at all remote, and it is +hard to realize that to anyone that year can appear a very long way in +the past. + +On the last day of October, in the early morning, a steamer of the +Austrian-Lloyd Line cast anchor in front of Beirut. That was long before +the building of the harbor, and all vessels tossed in the open +roadstead, at the mercy of wind and wave, only slightly sheltered by the +long headland of Ras Beirut, where the tall lighthouse rears its slender +shaft, and where the Syrian Protestant College stands, as a more +important symbol of light-giving. + +The anchor was scarcely dropped before the little boats from the shore +crowded about the ladders and the boatmen came swarming over the sides +of the vessel, to take possession of the passengers and carry them +ashore. It is always a perplexing but interesting scene to the newcomer. +The curious costumes of many colors give an appearance of gayety to the +crowd; the shouting of the guttural Arabic makes one think of Babel; the +wild gesticulating of the excited people suggests the possibility of a +riot; the seizing of baggage and pulling of passengers by eager boatmen +make one think that the day of personal liberty and private property is +passed. As a rule, however, it is all good-natured, and the noise is +more bantering than quarreling. In fact, one soon becomes accustomed to +the turmoil as an indication of lack of orderly proceeding in the +Orient. + +Among the first figures to appear on deck that October morning was one +quieter but no less eager than the Arab boatmen. He quickly made his way +to the room of the new missionaries, just arriving from America, +prepared to take them ashore, and even to escort them at once to his own +home in Sidon. It was a most welcome, homelike experience to the tired +travelers, and the cheery voice and cordial welcome of Mr. W. K. Eddy +will never be forgotten. + +There were many things in the journey, thus ended, that had made it +trying. The young couple had crossed the Atlantic entirely among +strangers and the ocean had not been kind to them. Seasickness is never +a happy experience, and when it becomes a continuous performance, in +connection with a wedding journey, it seems most inappropriate. Pleasant +visits with family friends and relatives in Scotland effaced the +memories of the Atlantic. Visiting new scenes and beautiful places in +Switzerland gave much pleasure by the way, but in an unfortunate day the +germs of malaria had been absorbed and southern Italy was reached with +fever and weakness that made sightseeing a burden. + +Who can forget his first glimpse of the real Orient, at Port Said? The +noise and the dirt; the squalor and the glaring sun; the rush of the +crowd and the utter lonesomeness of the stranger, make a contrast and +mixture that are not easily matched in life's ordinary experiences. Four +days were to pass before a steamer went to Beirut. It was not a pleasant +prospect for travelers homesick and weak from fever to have to tarry +for four days in a dismal hotel, with nothing attractive in the way of +companionship or occupation. Besides this, our trunks had not been sent +forward as promised, and we were obliged to depend upon the limited hand +baggage with which we had crossed the Continent. It is easy to imagine +the sensations with which the young bride looked forward to making her +first appearance among strangers, with a face pale from fever and an +outfit so unexpectedly limited. + +The hearty welcome of Mr. Eddy on the deck of that Austrian steamer in +Beirut harbor was a needed tonic, and his skill and experience readily +passed us through the intricacies of the customhouse and brought us to +the hospitable home of his father. Of the friends who conspired to make +those first days bright, many have been called away to the other shore, +though others are still our associates in the service of Syria. Dr. and +Mrs. W. W. Eddy, with whom we spent our first ten days in Syria, left +us many years ago. Dr. Samuel Jessup was always thoughtful, bringing +bright flowers from his garden to continue the impression of his bright +face and cheery words, when he called upon the strangers. He and Mrs. +Jessup, whose home was one of the brightest spots of those early years, +have also gone on before to their well-earned reward. Mr. March, coming +down from the mountains on his way to Tripoli, was especially ready in +his plans for the comfort of his new associates in Tripoli Station. But +it is not necessary to mention each one. The beauty of missionary life +is the unity of fellowship and the completeness with which every +newcomer is received into the intimacy and love of the circle, which is +only less close and intimate than that of the family itself. + +After ten days spent in Beirut in trying to get rid of the malaria and +in acquiring some knowledge of the Arabic alphabet, we went on to +Tripoli, our future home. It was a cold, windy Saturday afternoon. We +were taken out to the steamer in a small boat, which tossed on the +restless waves in a way which we supposed to be normal. The steamer was +small and crowded with a miscellaneous company, most of whom were not +happy, to say the least. Fortunately it is only a four hours' ride, for +the wind increased in violence as we proceeded, and when the anchor was +dropped at sundown off Tripoli, it seemed doubtful whether any boats +could come out to meet us. In due time, however, a boat pulled +alongside, and there was Mr. March, who had come out over that rough sea +to welcome us to our new home, though he did not think we would venture +to start from Beirut in such a storm. The steamer was rolling so badly +that the ladder could not be lowered at all, and we crept out on it as +it lay horizontally along the ship's side, and then, when the tip was +lowest, simply dropped into the arms of the boatmen below. Then began +the laborious pull for the shore. We were two hours reaching land, our +clothes soaked, our spirits at zero, but most happy to reach the warm, +cozy haven of the March home in the Mina of Tripoli. It was the +beginning of a most beautiful fellowship with Mr. and Mrs. March and +their children, whose sweet introduction of themselves won our hearts at +once and who, though now grown to maturity, still call us by the old, +affectionate titles of uncle and aunt. Thus, for the second time in our +short missionary experience, we were made to feel the comfort and peace +of being taken into the warmth and love of a Christian home, no longer +as strangers, but as brethren. + +We wished to take possession of our own home as soon as possible. Our +household goods were in the customhouse, and another first experience +was before us. Everything had to be examined and its purpose explained +to the satisfaction of the Turkish inspector. To him it seemed a wholly +unnecessary amount of furniture for one person, for of course he could +not recognize that the wife's existence made any difference. A box of +class photographs was examined in detail, and great surprise manifested +that one person should have so many friends. A small vase for flowers in +the shape of a kettle resting on five legs puzzled the examiner, until +he picked up the perforated piece of a soap dish, and decided that he +had found the appropriate adaptation of the two pieces. It did not seem +necessary to explain, so long as he was satisfied, and no harm was done. + +We had many things to learn besides the language. Our home belonged to a +man whose name was translated to us as Mr. Victory-of-God Brass. In an +arch under the parlor windows he had hung a donkey's skull and some +beads, to keep off the evil eye of jealousy from his fine house. It was +a pleasant house, well located near the city gate which had been known +in former days as Donkey Gate, only a few minutes' walk from the girls' +school and just at the end of the tram line connecting the city with +the harbor, two miles distant. In planning for our new home we had +indulged in the luxury of two pairs of simple lace curtains for our +parlor windows. When we entered the house, our amazement can hardly be +exaggerated at the discovery that the parlor had not two but eight +windows, each calling for curtains twelve feet long. Our lace curtains +were relegated to service elsewhere. Mr. Eddy had kindly arranged to +come up from Sidon to help us in this first settling of our new home, +and his help and companionship were invaluable. He went with me to the +shops to purchase such things as were needed, and the shopkeepers +recognized at once his fluent Arabic and his companion's ignorance of +the language. More than one shopkeeper called him aside and asked him to +bring the stranger to them for his purchases, promising him a handsome +commission for his services. + +The house was soon made habitable and just three weeks after our first +landing in Syria we slept under our own roof, with our own possessions +about us, and were ready to begin our own independent home life in the +land of our adoption. We had made our beginning, and a bright, happy +beginning it was, notwithstanding the difficulties and drawbacks +inevitable in such conditions. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +LANGUAGE STUDY + + +Whatever differences there may be in experiences in missionary life, all +missionaries are faced with a most troublesome experience in learning a +new language. It is more or less natural for everyone to magnify what +concerns himself. "Our children" are always a little better than our +neighbors'. "Our cook" makes better bread than anyone else. And +"mother's pies"--well, that calls for no argument. It is much the same +way among missionaries. It is probable that there are just about as many +"hardest languages" in the world as there are distinct mission fields. +But, then, there must be one that is really the hardest, and we in Syria +think we come pretty well up on the list, even though we do not claim +absolute pre�minence. The Arabic, though rich and beautiful, is +certainly a difficult language, and I am sure the Syria Mission would +give a unanimous vote on the resolution that it is the toughest +linguistic proposition we have ever attacked. It was one of the terse +and suggestive remarks of Dr. Henry Jessup that at the end of the first +year the new missionary thought he knew the Arabic; at the end of the +second year he thought he knew nothing; and at the end of the third year +he wondered how he got hold of it. + +The isolation of a new missionary is at times appalling. No matter how +kind and helpful the older missionaries may be, they are strangers, +after all, with whom one must get acquainted. The houses are strange, +and not adapted to make one feel at home readily. Servants with their +very imperfect knowledge of English must be directed mainly by signs. +Everything seems unbearably dirty; the sun is unaccountably hot, even in +winter; the food is strange and does not appeal to a Westerner's +appetite. But, worst of all, among the babel of noises, there is not a +familiar sound, and with the best intentions of friendliness, one cannot +reveal the intention, except by the perpetual, inane grin. + +We began the study of the language, as everyone does, almost at the +wharf. Even before recovering from the effects of the voyage, the Arabic +primer, with its alphabet, was brought to the bedside. At one of the +earliest lessons in Tripoli, the old, gray-bearded teacher wished to +impress a new word, "Milh." He repeated the difficult combination, and +then inquired in some way whether we knew what the word meant. The look +of blank ignorance on our faces gave him the answer, and he rose and +stepped with dignity, in his flowing robes, to the door. Opening this, +he called in a loud voice across the open court to the cook, "Peter, +bring me some salt." Then with a little of this household necessity in +his palm, he came back to his stupid pupils, and, pointing at the salt, +said emphatically, "Milh." That word was permanently fixed in our +vocabulary. + +In less than two months after our arrival in Syria, and forty days after +taking possession of our own home, came New Year's Day. With the +self-confidence of youth and ignorance, we decided to keep open house on +our own account. In the forenoon we had our language teacher with us to +steer us through the intricacies of oriental etiquette, and to tell us +what to say, in the varying circumstances, and all went well. After +dinner, however, we excused him, as we did not expect many more calls, +and waited our fate. After a time, when the parlor was well filled with +a mixed company of men and women, among whom was the old teacher who had +taught us the word for salt, I used the wrong pronominal termination, +probably the masculine where I should have used the feminine. The old +gentleman rose from his place with great impressiveness and started +round the entire circle, pointing his finger at each person, and +pronouncing distinctly to every man, "tak" and to every woman, "tik." It +created a laugh, of course, but it is needless to say that whatever +mistakes I have made in Arabic since, it has never been because I did +not know the difference between the masculine and feminine form of the +second person pronominal affix. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION + + +In preparing for the active service of a missionary, it was necessary to +have a horse and a touring outfit. Our servant was told that we wanted +to buy a horse, and if he heard of any good chance, to let us know. In a +few days a man came to the house with a large gray mare for me to try. I +rode on her a little and examined her so far as I was capable of doing, +and was greatly pleased with her. I knew enough, however, of oriental +methods, to show no particular zeal over the matter, and left the owner +without any indication of my pleasure. In my own mind, I decided that I +should like to own that mare, and that I would be willing to pay as much +as twenty pounds for her, though I hoped to secure a horse for half that +amount. As I came in I told the servant to make inquiry about the price +of the mare. He returned soon, saying the owner would sacrifice his own +interests so far as to let me have her for seventy-five pounds. I did +not buy that mare, but waited several months until I found a sturdy gray +horse, which I bought for less than ten pounds. He served me well for +five years, when I sold him for little less than the original cost. + +Tripoli field was rejoicing and congratulating itself in those days over +the macadamized road recently opened between Tripoli at the coast and +Homs and Hamath in the interior. It was sixty-five miles to Homs and +thirty-five more to Hamath. A cumbersome diligence made the trip to Homs +in eleven hours, going one day and returning the next, and a lighter +vehicle made the round trip between Homs and Hamath every day. This was +a great advance in rapid transit and a great convenience in all lines of +work. + +In all Syria there was not a mile of railroad, and in northern Syria +there was no carriage road besides the one line just mentioned. All +traveling had to be done on horseback or afoot. Horses, donkeys, mules +and camels were the universal means of travel and transportation. Every +day caravans of camels came into Tripoli by the hundred, bringing grain, +olive oil and Syrian butter from the interior. They returned loaded with +sugar, rice, kerosene oil, and English yarn and cloth. The first +railroad was built in the early nineties from Jaffa to Jerusalem. Later +came the line from Beirut to Damascus; then the line from Haifa through +Galilee to Damascus, the line from Damascus to the south, and the line +from Damascus to Medina. Then came the branch line, from the +Beirut-Damascus line, to Homs, Hamath and Aleppo, and finally the +Tripoli Homs line and the German Bagdad line, passing through Aleppo +from east to west. With many other lines and extensions under +consideration, it is evident that railroad communication is fairly +started in Syria and that this part of the East has begun to feel the +influence of steam. + +During our first year in Tripoli, before I was at all familiar with the +various places, I overheard a conversation between two of our associates +about a recent trip to Beirut by land. The remark was made, "I suppose +you took a carriage from Junieh to Beirut." This is about one fourth of +the distance and was considered a great gain in the facilities of +transportation. The answer came, with even greater evidence of +satisfaction, "No, I rode in a carriage from Jebail." This meant a +doubling of the advantage, as Jebail is halfway between Tripoli and +Beirut. That was in 1889 and it was not until 1912 that this carriage +road was completed, so that one could make the whole distance on wheels. + +The tramway connecting Tripoli City and the Mina, or harbor, was the +only tramway in Syria and was an object of great pride. It had a single +track about two miles long, with a switch in the middle for the passing +of cars from the opposite ends. A car started from each terminus about +once in twenty minutes and made the trip in about the same length of +time, the fare being four cents and the motor power horses or mules. The +cars were originally imported from Birmingham, of the double-decker +type. They are still in daily service, receiving a fresh coat of paint +and necessary repairs every year. This line continues to run, though +with somewhat more frequent service and with a reduced fare of two +cents, since public carriages now run on a road alongside the tram. +Carriage roads now extend in several directions from Tripoli, and there +are many public carriages to hire; even an automobile is occasionally +seen and several bicycles have made their appearance. + +The postal system is a curiosity to those who are accustomed to free +delivery several times a day. It would be supposed that the Turkish +post would carry all letters for people in Turkey, since Turkey is a +member of the International Postal Union. At all the seaports, however, +one finds foreign post offices, which do a large business in receiving +and forwarding mail by all the steamers. To points in the interior they +cannot deliver mail. In Tripoli we had the French, and later the +Austrian service. In 1890 cholera appeared in Tripoli and all steamers +stopped calling at the port, to avoid quarantine. We were confined to +the use of the Turkish mail. Two messengers brought the mail by land +from Beirut each week. It was Tripoli which was infected with cholera, +and yet the incoming mail was stopped outside the city and drenched with +carbolic acid, while the outgoing mail was not touched. The mail +distributor in Tripoli could not read any language, not even Arabic, and +so he used to bring the bag directly to our house and empty it on the +floor, in order to get my help in assorting the letters for him. We were +glad to have the first pick of the mail, as it assured our receiving +all our own mail, and that promptly. + +At the last conference of the International Postal Union there was a +general reduction of postage and an increase in the unit of weight. +Turkey has given her adherence to this international arrangement, but +maintains her old internal rates so that we have the present absurd +condition, that a piaster stamp will carry twenty grams to any place +abroad, while it will carry only fifteen grams from one town to its next +neighbor. Additional weight abroad requires three quarters of a piaster +for each additional twenty grams, while for internal use every +additional fifteen grams requires a full piaster. Thus a letter weighing +sixty grams will go from an interior town like Homs to San Francisco for +two piasters and a half, while the same letter, if sent from Homs to +Tripoli, would cost four piasters. + +It might be supposed that there would be good caravan roads, at least, +in a country where all produce must be carried on quadrupeds, and all +travelers must ride or walk. The reverse was true, and though the past +twenty-five years have witnessed great improvement in this respect, +there is still much to be desired in most localities. Many of the roads +cannot be described as anything but trails through the rocky ground. The +chief consideration in locating a road seems to be to have it run +through ground which is fit for nothing else, for it would be a pity to +waste arable ground, and so a road must go around, no matter what the +distance. Whatever stones are gathered from the fields are thrown into +the highway, making it rougher than ever. In some parts of the +mountains, the road will lie along the top of a solid stone dike, ten to +fifteen feet wide, from which the traveler looks down to a depth of +eight or ten feet upon the fields and mulberry patches on each side. It +has been said that a road, in Syria, is that part of the country to be +avoided in traveling, so far as possible. This inference is easy to +understand when you notice that all the trodden paths are in the fields +at either side, and that people travel in the rough roads, only when +there is no escape. While the grain is growing the farmers will do their +best, by building up stone walls, to keep the animals out of their +fields, but just as soon as the harvest is gathered these obstructions +go down and the current of traffic resumes the easier course until the +winter rains make the mud a worse enemy than the rough stones. + +In other places it is often an interesting study to try to decide +whether the water flows in the road, or whether people travel in the +watercourses. It is something like the insolvable question as to which +came first, the hen or the egg. The fact remains that, as a rule, in wet +weather and rough country, the traveler will find his horse splashing +through a stream of water flowing down the road. The explanation is +simple. There is nowhere any system of drainage, and every man's +purpose is to turn the streams of rain water away from his own land. +Useful land cannot be wasted for watercourses any more than for roads, +and hence the waste lands are devoted to the double purpose, with the +resulting confusion as to which is the intruder. + +The obscurity of the roads leads to many more or less unpleasant +experiences. There are roads so steep and difficult that it is no +unusual experience to see a muleteer take hold of his mule's tail as he +goes down the mountain path, and by a judicious holding back, help the +animal to steady himself under a heavy, awkward load. On the other hand, +when he is going up the mountain, the tired muleteer will take hold of +the same convenient handle to get a little help for himself in the +ascent. + +One summer night, Mrs. Nelson and I were belated on the higher slopes of +Mount Lebanon. The trail was little more than a path for goats, and was +quite unfamiliar to us. In the dark night, we lost the way more than +once, and we were becoming quite exhausted in repeated efforts to regain +the path, when, at last, we seemed to have strayed completely, and I +could not locate the road at all. We had to take a little rest, and wait +for the moon to rise. We sat upon the mountain side, under the shade of +fragrant cedars, tired, hungry and thirsty. The surroundings were +charming and the dim outlines of forest and mountain beautiful. The +night air was refreshing, after an exceptionally hot day; but when one +has lost his way, he is not in a condition to appreciate fully the +beauties of nature or the charms of his surroundings. As we sat there, +gaining some rest, I began to study the outline of the hills, and +concluded that the road must lie in a certain curve of the mountains not +far away. On investigating I found my impression correct, and we resumed +our journey, reaching our destination just as the moon appeared over the +highest ridge of the mountains. + +On another occasion it was the intelligence of my horse rather than my +own which saved me considerable inconvenience. I was belated upon the +mountain and overtaken by sunset, some eight miles from my destination. +Confident in my horse as well as in myself, I pushed on as rapidly as +possible over the rough path. To add to my difficulty, a thick mountain +fog settled about me until it was impossible to see the path ten feet +ahead. In descending a steep slope, leading my horse, I missed the trail +and found myself in the vineyards. I knew that the village was close at +hand and anticipated no difficulty in working down to the road. At any +rate, it seemed likely that we should arouse the night watchman in the +vineyard and it would be his duty to turn us out of the vineyard, +exactly what we wished for. We stumbled along, over grapevines and +stones, but came no nearer to the road, nor did we disturb the sleeping +watchman. After what seemed like endless wandering, though the distance +was not far nor the time long, I came up against a stone wall and could +see a path beyond. Getting over this wall was simple, but which way to +turn in the road was not clear. I tried the turn to the right, +tentatively, not fully convinced myself. My horse yielded reluctantly +and walked very slowly indeed over the rough stones. After a few minutes +my own doubts increased and I determined to test the horse. Dropping the +reins loosely on his neck, I gave him no sign of guidance at all. As +soon as he felt the relaxing of pressure on the bits, his head rose, his +ears stood erect and he seemed to cast an inquiring glance out of the +corner of his eye. When convinced that he was free to choose for +himself, he immediately swung around and started at a rapid walk in the +opposite direction. In a very few minutes I could see the village lights +struggling through the mists, and was soon at my own door. + +This same horse gave me another illustration of his intelligence. I was +riding along the carriage road, on the seashore, intending to turn up +to one of the mountain villages. There were two roads to this village, +and when we came to the first my horse tried to turn up, but was easily +held back and started briskly along, as if fully understanding my +purpose. When we came to the second road we found that it had been +plowed under and that grain several inches high was growing where the +path had been. I knew that the road had been moved a short distance so +as to pass a khan recently erected. The horse had not yet gone over this +altered road and so was puzzled. I left him to his own guidance. When he +came to the point where the road had divided, he stopped and looked at +the grain, and then went slowly on, looking constantly at the field, +until, after about twenty or thirty feet, he decided to make a plunge, +and struck directly through the growing grain to where the old road had +been at the other edge of the field. + +The introduction of railroads and carriages throughout the country +facilitates travel and business a great deal, but it takes away much of +the interest and diversion of getting about from place to place. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +EVANGELISTIC TRIPS + + +It was a practice with us for many years to arrange a special +evangelistic medical trip in the spring of the year. Sometimes Mrs. +Nelson and I would join Dr. Harris in a journey of two or three weeks, +and sometimes the doctor and I would go alone. One of the most memorable +of these journeys was in the spring of 1893, in the month of May. We had +our tent and camp outfit and the large chests of medical supplies +carried on mules and were accompanied by our cook, with his portable +kitchen packed away under him, and the Syrian assistant of the doctor, +so that we made quite a party altogether. We started along the shore +north from Tripoli, making our first camp about ten miles out of the +city. The next day's journey brought us to Tartoose on the shore +opposite the island of Arvad. Ezek. 27:8. This island lies only a short +distance from the shore, but I have never yet been able to reach it +because of the violent west wind on each occasion of a visit to +Tartoose. The island is wholly covered by the town, which is occupied by +sturdy sailors and fishermen. There are many interesting relics of +ancient times in Tartoose, though it is possible that many of the coins +offered to the credulous public may have been produced recently in the +place itself. + +[Illustration: LATAKIA BOYS' SCHOOL] + +[Illustration: TARTOOSE _Crusaders' Church_] + +At the edge of the town stands a fine Gothic church, whose substantial +walls and graceful arches are a pleasure to the eye. The empty windows +make one feel lonesome as he approaches the building, and the bare +interior speaks of a decadent Christianity that adds to the sadness. +But, worst of all, is the minaret crudely built on the corner of the +roof, for this is another of the many Christian churches in Turkey which +have been transformed into mosques. + +At another of our camping places we found, near at hand, an old Roman +amphitheater, where it was not difficult to imagine a concourse of +pleasure seekers seated on the stone benches watching some exhibition of +strength or skill in the arena below. Wherever one goes in Syria, he is +reminded of an ancient glory and power, in close and vivid contrast to a +present state of decay and weakness. + +Our first Sabbath, on this journey, found us at Latakia, where we spent +the day with our neighbors and fellow workers of the Reformed +Presbyterian mission. This mission was started especially to reach the +Nusairiyeh people of north Syria. Because of the persistent interference +of the Turkish Government, their work has been greatly hampered and +their efforts largely restricted to the training of boys and girls in +the boarding institutions in the city, and ministration to the sick in +the hospital. It was a great pleasure to have this break in our journey +and the pleasant intercourse with those engaged in the same kind of +service as our own, and to have the privilege of speaking to the young +people in their schools. + +On Monday we went a short distance from the city, pitching our tent near +a village of considerable size on the plain some miles back from the +sea. As I sat in the moonlight at the door of the tent, a man wearing +the white turban of a Moslem scholar approached me. He seated himself +near me after a pleasant greeting and we fell into agreeable +conversation. After some time, this man took the opportunity, when no +one was near enough to overhear him, to ask most earnestly that we +should send them a teacher for their children. I was surprised at the +request from such a source and turned the conversation so as to make +sure that he understood who we were and what kind of schools we +conducted. He showed that he understood the matter fully, and that he +really desired a Protestant Christian teacher for his town. I then asked +him directly, "Are you not a Moslem?" Looking about again, to make sure +no one should hear him, he said, "Yes, I am a Moslem now," with an +emphasis on the last word which revealed the facts in the case. He was +of a Nusairiyeh family but had yielded to the persistent pressure of the +government so far as to accept the form of adherence to Islam, though in +his heart he hated the system and its followers most cordially. + +A long day's ride brought us through the wild and tortuous valley of the +Nahr-ul-Kandil, up the slope of Mount Cassius to the town of Kessab, +some four thousand feet above the sea, where the Latakia missionaries +have their summer homes. It was a most beautiful though rugged ride, and +would have been thoroughly enjoyable in good weather. The wild flowers +were in full bloom, and every turn in the road brought into view a new +combination of varied and bright colors, where the little blossoms +clustered amid the green foliage, among the gray rocks. The great +drawback to our enjoyment lay in the fact that for a large part of the +distance we rode in a heavy and most unexpected rainfall. We were not +prepared for such an experience in the month of May, and so reached our +destination soaked and cold. We had been directed to take possession of +one of the cottages belonging to the missionaries in Latakia, and it was +certainly a most welcome haven. We were able to light a fire in the +kitchen stove and spread out our wet garments to dry, while we warmed +ourselves in the grateful heat. + +It was a disappointment the next day that the top of Cassius was +enveloped in heavy cloud, forbidding an ascent. This mountain is about +five thousand feet in height, rising directly from the sea, and so is a +conspicuous object from every direction and gives an extensive view from +its summit. We could tarry but one day, and descended to the old site of +Seleucia, at the mouth of the Orontes, and saw some remnants of the old +harbor from which Paul set sail more than once. The Orontes is quite +wide and deep near its mouth and we crossed it on just such a wire ferry +as I had seen many years before on the Connecticut River in +Massachusetts. The gardens of Swadia were most refreshing with their +green verdure, cool shade and rich fruit, after a long day's ride in the +heat, and again we had the pleasure of missionary fellowship, for our +friends of the Reformed Presbyterian mission have a station here also. +Another easy stage brought us to old Antioch, so closely associated with +the beginning of Christian history. It is not an attractive city in +outward appearance and has suffered much at different times from +earthquake. + +From Antioch we followed the Orontes Valley up to Hamath, where we were +once more among our own organized stations. Such journeys give us an +acquaintance with the country and the people, which is of the most vital +importance in planning for the proper expansion of the work. + +Once, on a pleasant summer evening, we were encamped near a Nusairiyeh +village. Among those gathered about us were an elderly peasant and his +son, a well-built, sturdy youth of seventeen or eighteen years. As he +sat before us this young man appeared to be in perfect health and vigor, +but when he rose to walk, his awkward gait revealed his misfortune, for +both feet were so badly deformed that he walked on his ankles and not on +the soles of his feet. The doctor was asked whether this defect could be +remedied. After a careful examination the lad was told that the +operation would be painful, and that some time would be required, but +that if he would come to the hospital, prepared to stay as long as +should be necessary, he would be able to come away, walking erect, like +other people. The faces brightened at once, and we shared in their +pleasure at the prospect of this deliverance. The next morning, however, +we were told that the family had talked over the matter and decided not +to have the operation performed. We assured them there should be no +expense, but they said it was not the matter of expense. Then we told +them of similar cases which had been successfully treated, but they +assured us they had no doubt of the doctor's skill. We encouraged the +young man to bear the pain for the sake of increased enjoyment in life +afterwards, but he said he was not afraid of the pain. What then was the +trouble? At last we learned the truth. So long as the lad could show two +such clubbed feet, he would be excused from military service; but if +they were made straight he would be called to the army; and he would +rather go through life a cripple than to give several years of his vigor +to service in the Turkish army. And he is no exception. + +We were approaching a large town of bigoted people, wondering how we +should secure an opening for our message. I was riding slightly in front +of the doctor, occupied with plans for securing access to the people. +Suddenly I heard the doctor's voice behind me saying, "Boy, do you want +your eye straightened?" On looking back I saw a lad of about fifteen +years, with a decidedly crossed eye, beside the doctor's horse. He +promptly accepted the offer, and we hastened to dismount and tie our +horses. A table in the little roadside caf� was quickly cleared, while +the doctor got out his case of instruments from his saddlebags. The boy +was placed on the table and in an incredibly short time the cords were +severed so that the eyeball took its proper position, and we were +thoroughly advertised. By the time our camp equipage came up, we had +been provided with an excellent place to camp, and had nothing to +complain of in the reception of the people. + +A memorable experience was in the neighborhood of a large village whose +gardens are said to be watered by three hundred springs. Whatever the +correct number may be, there is no question about the abundance of +water and the luxuriance of the gardens. We had three tents, one for +medical clinics and one apiece for our two households, and settled down +for a fortnight's work. Every day we had crowds about the tent for +medical attention and for religious services. The evenings gave abundant +opportunity for work among those who gathered about us after their day's +work was done. They were glad to join in the hymns of praise, and +listened earnestly to the spoken message and read word. One evening, the +boys who gathered about the tent told me that the superintendent of +their school was in town and had begun an examination, to be finished +the next day. I decided to go to the school the next morning to make the +acquaintance of the superintendent and to see what the school was doing. +When I arose the following day, I found many of the boys about the tent, +and asked them why they were not at school for the examination. "Oh," +they said, "there is no examination to-day. Early this morning, the +superintendent, the teachers and the headman of the village took their +horses, a large bottle of spirits and a young kid, and went up to the +top of the mountain to a famous spring to spend the day in a drinking +spree." + +One of the pleasantest evenings I remember in my regular routine touring +was spent in this same village. We had brought our party to a garden, +owned by one of our friends who was always glad to have us make it our +headquarters. We had eaten our supper and were seated on the ground, +under a high, branching tree into which was trained a huge grapevine. +Behind us was a little hut, in which the caretaker slept in stormy +weather. At one side was a rude booth where the owner slept during the +summer. An oil lantern gave some light. One by one quite a group of +neighbors and friends assembled and, after some general conversation, +we sang some hymns. Then I opened the Bible for a little reading, with +simple exposition. As I read and talked to them, the row of dark faces +was turned toward me with an intentness and eagerness to hear that made +me hope they might not see me or hear my words, but hear those words of +life spoken so many years ago in Palestine, and see that Face from which +alone shines the true light. + +We are not always left to do as we please on these trips, for the +paternal Turkish Government sometimes takes an unnecessary interest in +our plans and shows an excessive concern for our safety. We had crossed +a rugged section of the mountains and come down to a walled town, which +is a government center. Here we camped near the town and were promptly +favored with a call from officials, sent by the governor to find out who +we were. We paid a formal call on his Excellency and were allowed to +remain quietly as long as we desired. When we broke camp a polite +message came from the governor, asking where we were going and offering +a guard and escort. We returned a grateful acknowledgment of his +courtesy, but assured him that we were familiar with the roads and would +not trouble him to send an escort. It was only after some difficulty +that we succeeded in getting away alone. We learned afterwards that we +were followed, and that, in accordance with instructions from +headquarters, word was sent from place to place to keep watch of us. At +one large town we had large crowds about our camp and large audiences +for evening services for several days, when suddenly there was a change +and no one came near us. Apparently the sick were all healed and all +interest in singing and conversation had ceased. It developed that word +had been sent to the nearest government center, and orders had come back +at once, not to interfere with our comfort but to notify the people to +have nothing to do with us. At one of these places, which were all +occupied by Nusairiyeh and Ismaeliyeh people, Mrs. Nelson was talking +with some of the women about religion. They said, "Do Christian women +have any religion?" When assured that we believe religion to be for +everyone, whether male or female, rich or poor, wise or ignorant, they +replied: "It is not so with us. A woman with us can have no share in +religion. If one of us should accidentally overhear the men talking +about religious beliefs, so that she unintentionally learned some +religious doctrine, she ought to acknowledge it and be put to death. And +it is right to be so, for a woman must know nothing of religion." + +On another occasion, quite a party of us stopped to spend the night in +one of these towns. While I was busy with arrangements for the night +other members of the party went to look about the little castle at the +edge of the town. Our presence was reported to the acting governor. +Unfortunately he was a man of surly disposition and anxious to magnify +his office. He demanded our Turkish passports, which he had a technical +right to do. Unfortunately some of the party had failed to provide +themselves with these documents as they were seldom called for. It gave +our little governor a chance and he used it, insisting that he must send +us to Hamath, practically under guard, but nominally under military +protection. We were intending to go to Hamath, but not directly, and so +it was finally agreed that the horseman go with us to Mahardeh where we +were to lodge, and accompany us the following day to Hamath. When we +started out the next morning, it was ludicrous to see the haughty airs +of this soldier who was sent with us. He acted as if he really believed +these foreigners were committed to his absolute control and carried his +head very high. Before going many miles we had succeeded, by pleasant +conversation, in limbering him up considerably, and by noon, when we +stopped for luncheon, he displayed his power in our behalf by ordering +the villagers to serve us in every way possible. By evening, when we +entered Mahardeh, he was quite cringing in his servility, for now he +realized that he was alone and we were among friends, so it was worth +while to be genial and submissive. When I informed him that I was not +going with the party the next day, he claimed to be greatly terrified +and begged me most humbly not to subject him to such peril. "For," said +he, "the number of foreigners is mentioned in the governor's letter, and +if I do not produce the full number, I shall be held responsible." I +said, "Be that as it may, I must stay here over Sunday and on Monday +morning I will follow and report myself to his Excellency if necessary." +He went away, apparently in much uncertainty. I knew, however, that the +matter was a mere formality and would bring no risk either to him or to +me; and so it proved, for the governor took no interest in the matter at +all. + +On a warm summer evening, Dr. Harris and I rode up to the sheik's house +in a village I have never visited before or since. As strangers we were +welcomed to the public room. It was soon discovered that a doctor was +present, and immediately all who were diseased came about us. It was a +marvel to see men lie down before this stranger with perfect confidence +and allow him to cut about their eyes or put drops in them. It does +happen, alas, too often, that this credulity costs them dear, for many +an eye has been ruined by conscienceless quacks who trade on the +simplicity of the people. It is a pleasure, however, to see them place +themselves in the hands of the skillful and honest missionary physician, +who will help them, if possible, or tell them truthfully if there is no +remedy. At sunset a large dish of wheat, boiled with some meat, was +brought out, and cakes of barley bread placed about it. All who were +present were bidden to partake, and we did the best we could to satisfy +our hunger. After a social evening we spread our beds and made ready for +sleep, if possible. As I lay on my bed, I could hear those who sat about +discussing us. They told of the doctor's famous skill and what he had +done there before them. I was glad to find that I held the humble +position of doctor's assistant in their estimation. But I could not help +wondering then and since about that village. So far as I know that is +the only missionary visit ever made there. Is it enough? + +[Illustration: ALEPPO MINARET] + + + + +CHAPTER V + +ALEPPO + + +In 1893 a plan was developed in the mission to extend our sphere of +labor so as to include the city of Aleppo, which had been occupied many +years before by the mission and then left because of the exigencies of +the work and lack of forces. It was a four days' journey from our +nearest outstation, and hence not easy to care for; but as Tripoli +Station was the nearest part of the mission, Aleppo was placed under our +direction. + +Aleppo is one of the largest cities in Syria, and a most important +commercial center. It is nearly the most northern point for the use of +the Arabic language, as Turkish becomes the general medium of +communication one day's journey farther north. Being so near the Turkish +district, there are many Turkish-speaking people in Aleppo, but the +city as a whole is essentially an Arabic-speaking place. The American +Board had a Turkish congregation connected with their mission and +maintained church and school work in Aleppo for the Turkish-speaking +strangers resident in the city. There was the most cordial welcome from +these missionaries to our proposal to organize work for the +Arabic-speaking population. Before making my first visit of supervision +to Aleppo it was arranged by correspondence that Mr. Sanders of Aintab, +the missionary in charge of that district, should meet me and spend +several days in conference as to the arrangement of details of our +interlocking work. It had been proposed most kindly that we should hold +our Arabic services in the premises of the Turkish congregation. + +In many ways that first journey to Aleppo was a unique experience. It +was a venture into a region of country wholly new to me, and involved +planning for a new department of service. There were two ways to reach +Aleppo, one wholly by land, involving a somewhat dangerous ride from +Hamath for four days; the other by sea to Alexandretta, and thence by +horseback over a carriage road to Aleppo. It was decided to take this +latter course, though all subsequent visits were made the other way. +After gaining all the information I could before leaving home, I took +the steamer to Alexandretta, where I landed on Monday morning. At once I +began my search for a riding animal, and at length secured a horse +guaranteed to be swift and of easy gait, whose owner promised to see me +in Aleppo by the evening of the third day. Delayed by those who wished +to accompany us, it was past noon before we set out on the road. It was +not long before I discovered that the ease had been left out in the +structure of my horse, and that any speed he may have had once was +well-nigh worn out. It was clear that I should have to work my passage, +but my courage held out. + +We pressed up the mountain slope and crossed the ridge in good time, +having many beautiful views back over the dark blue Mediterranean. Mount +Cassius lifted its rocky head five thousand feet, directly out of the +sea, to the south, showing where the Orontes empties into the sea at old +Seleucia. After passing the summit of the range we dropped down rapidly +to the Antioch plain, having the lake of Antioch in full view before us. +By sunset we had reached the place intended as our first halt, +thirty-seven kilometers from the shore. I found no place of +entertainment but a bare inn where I could set up my camp bed and sleep. +There was no food to be had for love or money and so I had to depend on +the scant supplies I had brought with me in my saddlebags. + +The second day's ride was much longer than the first, as we kept to the +saddle for twelve hours, notwithstanding the entreaty of my companions +to break the journey earlier. I reminded them of the pledge to reach +Aleppo on the third day, and so kept on until dusk. We had left the +carriage road for a more direct trail and stopped for the night in a +small, desolate village. There was no decent shelter to be found and so +I gladly set up my bed on the threshing floor, and slept under the +starry sky. I inquired for milk, eggs, bread, cheese, anything in the +way of food, offering ample pay for anything edible. After much +persuasion the people were induced to burrow in the straw pile on the +threshing floor from which they produced a watermelon. This was +refreshing at least, and helped to wash down my bread, which was getting +rather dry, as I did not like to use much water in this swampy region. +Long before dawn we were again on the road and pushed steadily ahead +over ridge after ridge, until, in the middle of the afternoon, the city +of Aleppo broke on our sight, a most refreshing vision. In one of the +valleys near Aleppo the traveler cannot fail to notice many heaps of +small stones, evidently placed there to mark certain spots. The place is +called the valley of the slain, and each pile indicates where some +victim has fallen. + +The appearance of Aleppo as one approaches it from the west is not +unpleasing, for it is the first well-built town seen after leaving the +coast. The houses are built of white limestone and the gardens about the +city lend a touch of green, most refreshing after the barren country +left behind. At first sight the designation of Aleppo as +Halch-es-Shahba--Aleppo the Gray--seems most appropriate. It is a pity +to detract from the more poetic explanation of the title. Old tradition +says that Abraham had his encampment at the site of Aleppo for a long +time, and was recognized throughout the region for his wealth and +generosity. He had set apart for the use of the poor the milk from a +certain gray cow in his herd, and hence some one was always on the +watch at evening. As soon as the gray cow came forward, this watchman +would shout at the top of his voice, "Haleb es Shahba," which means, "He +has milked the gray cow." Hence the city, which later grew up at this +spot, was called Haleb-es-Shahba, or Aleppo. + +I shall never forget a conversation connected with that journey. My +comrades were all Moslems, and as we jogged on, hour after hour, during +those three days, there were opportunities for conversation on many +topics. One day I asked one of them who was a religious teacher, what +his doctrine had to say as to the fate of non-Moslem infants who died in +infancy. I was surprised to find how closely his view parallels our own +Christian view of infant salvation. He answered at once that they are +all saved through the intercession of Mohammed. + +On reaching the city I sought a hotel, in order to remove the soil of +travel before hunting up our friends in this strange city. I was in the +midst of making myself presentable when a loud knock at my door was +followed immediately by its opening, and a rough Turkish police officer +made his appearance. Without a word or suggestion of apology, he began a +series of questions as to my name, residence and occupation. I let him +exhaust his list of questions and then asked, as quietly as possible, +whether he would like to look over my Turkish passport, which was +required of all in those days. He seemed to be so completely taken aback +at my evident lack of awe for himself, and surprised to meet a person +who was prepared in accordance with the law, that he could scarcely +stammer out in reply, "Why, have you a passport?" "Certainly," I +replied. "Here it is, with all the information you need." He sat down +most meekly and copied off the items he needed and took his departure in +a really polite manner. + +As this was my first visit to Aleppo, everything seemed strange to me, +except in so far as all oriental cities have a measure of resemblance. +As I was met also by Mr. Sanders, a missionary in charge of established +work, I found it natural to expect to be dependent on him for +everything. It came thus as a surprise to have him turn to me, in the +street, to act as interpreter. He spoke Turkish, but my Arabic was far +more necessary and serviceable in general intercourse. + +These experiences impressed it upon me most vividly that Aleppo is +thoroughly an Arabic-speaking city, and that the work should be in +organic connection with the evangelical work in other parts of Syria. +The Turkish congregation is a natural member of the Cilicia Union and +should affiliate with the churches of the north, but the Arabic +evangelical work belongs with the organizations under the care of our +mission in Syria. For four years this arrangement was continued and we +maintained Arabic services with a Syrian preacher and a day school with +a Syrian teacher. Each year two missionary visits were made, the +missionaries in Tripoli alternating in this duty. It was difficult to +carry on the work at such long range. In 1897 a heavy cut in our +appropriations made it necessary to consider every possible method of +retrenchment. At the same time the English Presbyterians were opening a +station in Aleppo for work among the Jews, and it seemed best, all +things considered, to ask our English friends to relieve us of this +responsibility, and assume the care of the work for the Gentiles as well +as for the Jews through the medium of Arabic, in Aleppo. Thus our +official connection with the work in Aleppo ceased, but it has never +passed from our minds that some day an Arabic-speaking evangelical +church in Aleppo should become a member of our Syrian Presbyterian +organization. Now that the railroad has brought Aleppo within six hours' +ride from Hamath, the problem has assumed a new form and we may hope +for a renewal of friendly affiliation. + +Such a city as Aleppo, with about two hundred and fifty thousand people +and increasing commercial importance, demands much of the missionary +organizations. The famous Constantinople Bagdad railway of the Germans +passes through Aleppo. A branch line connects with the Mediterranean at +Alexandretta. The French system from Beirut ends in Aleppo, giving +direct connection with Damascus, Beirut and Tripoli. The work of the +American Board, being at present in Turkish, reaches only a small part +of the population. The English mission places its emphasis on work for +the Jews and has ample scope in that part of the population. There +remains the vast bulk of the whole population, with Arabic as their +language, looking naturally to the American mission in Syria for help +and guidance. The large Moslem population and the numerous nominal +Christians deserve the attention of a resident American missionary to +organize aggressive and effective work. Shall we wait longer before +pressing on in this direction? + +Aleppo has been chosen by the International Committee of the Y.M.C.A. as +a place where a building should be erected and a permanent secretary +established. Should we fall behind the Y.M.C.A.? Whenever the American +Presbyterian Church says the word and furnishes the men and the money, I +am sure the Syrian mission will be ready to send one of its members +forward to this new frontier. God forbid that another quarter century +should pass before this is fulfilled. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +NEW STATIONS AND BUILDINGS + + +It has been my privilege to watch from the beginning the growth and +development of three prosperous churches in the territory of Tripoli +Presbytery. Each one has been marked by peculiarities that render it +especially interesting. In the early years of my acquaintance with the +church in Homs, I heard frequently of evangelistic visits on the part of +the young men of the church to various villages in the plain east of the +city--especially to one large village about two miles southeast of us. +The people of this village are of the Syrian or Jacobite church, and +have no little familiarity with the Bible and a really religious +disposition. Our young men from Homs used to go out in small bands of +two or more, with their gospels and hymn books in their pockets. If +they met a friendly reception, they would go into some house, where +those who were interested would gather together and a simple service or +friendly discussion would be held. If no one asked them to come in, they +would seek a place in the public square where people were gathered +together, and sing a hymn or read a passage to open the way for +discussion. In such cases there was danger of an exhibition of hostility +on the part of those who were unfriendly to the evangelical doctrine. It +happened more than once that these faithful messengers were driven out +of town, pursued with stones as well as reviling. Such treatment, +however, could not suppress the truth, and a strong church has grown up +from the seed thus sown amid hostile persecution. + +There was a most interesting old priest in this town of Feiruzeh who +received the truth into his heart, but never had the courage to leave +the old church, though he was known to be at heart an evangelical +believer. He sought books on the evangelical doctrine and studied them +earnestly, and sometimes attended the Protestant service, being present +at least once on a sacramental occasion. He openly taught his people the +folly of auricular confession and priestly absolution, saying to them: +"If you wish to come to me and tell me of your sins, so that I may help +you and pray with you to God for forgiveness, I am at your service; but +I am a sinner like you and we all have access to one Saviour. I cannot +forgive your sins, but will gladly pray for you and with you." + +There had been some inquiry about the truth on the part of a few people +in the village of El Yazidiyeh. In my first visit to the place we +pitched a tent on the threshing floor outside the village. Much +curiosity in our coming was shown, and some opportunity given to +strengthen the purpose of those who were inclined to the truth. At +length a teacher was stationed there and a simple school opened. One or +two of the people had joined the church in a neighboring village, but +the sacrament had never been administered in the town itself. Several +were ready to make a public profession of their faith in Christ, and it +seemed that the time had come to begin the full life of the little +church, by administering the sacrament on the spot. Plans were arranged +for an evening service in the schoolroom, and a good company was +gathered in the rudely furnished, dark little room. There was much +disturbance outside when it was known what was in progress. One zealous +defender of the truth sprang from his seat and rushed out in a most +militant manner to disperse the noisy crowd without. While the little +service was in progress, it was not always easy to keep the attention of +all, on account of the noisy beating of tin cans near by; and some +pebbles were thrown in at the windows. The service was completed, +however, and this was the beginning of what has proved to be one of our +most vigorous churches. There is now a simple church building, which is +always well filled at regular services, and new members are ready to +come forward at almost every communion service. + +The village of Hakoor is memorable, not so much because of hostile +opposition to the work as because of the apparently feeble instrument +used of God for the establishment of the church. A blind man, of keen +and inquiring mind, lived in this village and made a precarious living +by keeping a little shop. He was respected by his neighbors for his +integrity of character, and trusted by the church authorities for his +fidelity to church duties. He began to hear something of the new +evangelical doctrine and though ready to investigate, was strong in his +opposition and slow to yield to the new faith. When once thoroughly +convinced, however, his very honesty of nature made him accept the truth +and declare himself for the Protestant view. The bishop sent for him, +in order to recall him from his error. He told the bishop that he was +convinced that the teaching and practice of the Greek Church were not in +harmony with the gospel, and that he had decided to follow the teaching +of God rather than that of men, but that he was ready to hear anything +the bishop had to say to convince him that he was mistaken. The bishop +began to read him a controversial tract recently prepared against the +Protestant doctrine. Our blind friend interrupted him, saying: "I have +heard all that and can give you an outline of the whole argument. It +does not convince me and so, if you have nothing stronger, it will do no +good." The bishop then reviled him, comparing his course to that of +Judas toward Christ, and so cast him off. The blind man went home, glad +to suffer abuse for the truth. He gathered around him a group of +neighbors who studied the gospel under his guidance, and a little church +has grown up in that village, to which he ministered regularly for a +year, when no other preacher could be found. The little band has been +full of zeal and has raised the money to build a little chapel in which +they worship and in which their children are taught. + +By means which are insufficient in the sight of men, in spite of +opposition from those who are hostile to the truth, God's word continues +to bear fruit and the gospel light continues to spread throughout the +world. + +The missionary is met, in his periodic visitation of the outstations, +with every conceivable request and complaint. I am often asked to mend a +clock or a watch. I have been appealed to to adjust a coffee mill which +did not work right. Matrimonial and family difficulties must often be +arranged. I have told the people that there is one complaint I am always +glad to hear, and that is to the effect that the place of worship is too +small for the regular attendants. When I first went to the village of +Minyara, the services were held in a small room about twenty by +twenty-five feet. There was room to spare, though not a great deal. In a +few years it became necessary to plan for enlargement. This was +accomplished by securing a piece of land adjacent to the building, +taking out the end wall and extending the room so as to increase its +capacity about two thirds. The growth of the congregation was so rapid +and steady that this enlargement was not completed before the room was +again inadequate. An appeal was made to a generous friend in St. Louis, +and five hundred dollars were sent for the Minyara chapel. A further +piece of land was secured, and plans made for an entirely new and larger +building. The outline is rectangular, and the flat roof is supported by +three rows of arches, resting on six pillars. This building has been +ample for the accommodation of this growing church for many years, +though it is often well filled and would be far from sufficient, were +not half the members in America. + +In the city of Homs the old church had a flat dirt roof supported by two +heavy arches, which made the room seem dark and contracted. The regular +congregations taxed the capacity of the building, and the roof timbers +were showing signs of weakness which would necessitate an early renewal. +The pastor of the church began to work earnestly for a reconstruction of +the roof, with an enlargement of the audience room. There was a little +vacant space at one end of the building which if it were inclosed would +increase the capacity about forty per cent. At the same time the heavy +arches could be removed and a galvanized iron roof placed over the +enlarged building. But this would cost a considerable sum, and how was +that to be raised? The people thought they could not raise more than two +hundred dollars. The same friend in St. Louis, who had provided for the +Minyara chapel, sent another five hundred dollars, and we made this +proposition to the church: "After the church spends two hundred and +fifty dollars, the mission will put in five hundred, but if any more is +needed the church must provide it." They went to work with a will. When +the dirt from the old roof was to be carried out they organized a +regular church bee. All the men of the church came together, the pastor, +the doctor, the teacher, the merchant, each one taking one of the rough +baskets in which they carry dirt, and all together got the whole pile +removed at a considerable saving to the building fund. Before the work +was finished the church had raised and expended quite as much money as +they had received from outside. This enlarged place of worship has again +become too small, and its further enlargement is a pressing problem. + +[Illustration: HADETH SUMMER HOME] + +[Illustration: ABU MAROON, THE HADETH CARPENTER] + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +CAMPING LIFE + + +At the close of a tour one spring, Mrs. Nelson and I were compelled to +reach home on a fixed date, because of the expected arrival of guests. +The weather had been unpropitious and the rains heavy for the season of +the year. At one point we had been shut in for several days by a +snowstorm, and all the rivers were unusually high. We had a broad plain +to cross, intersected by three rivers which must be forded. The rain had +been persistent, but ceased on the day we were obliged to start for +home. We reached the first river after about an hour's ride, and crossed +it successfully, the water coming near to the girths of the saddles. The +second river was reached and crossed without serious difficulty, but +from there onward the entire plain seemed to be under water, and our +horses splashed along through water and mud without interruption. Toward +sundown we neared the last stream, and congratulated ourselves that just +beyond it we should find the carriage road and a dry place for the +night. Our road lay through a wretched little Nusairiyeh village, just +before reaching the river, and as we passed the houses we were hailed by +many voices assuring us that the river could not be forded with safety. +I did not believe this at first, thinking it merely a ruse to compel us +to spend the night in their village. Such an event would be more or less +profitable to the people who would provide our necessities for a +consideration, even if there was no thought of robbery, which was quite +possible also. We waited for our muleteers, as they were familiar with +the stream and would be able to decide whether we could cross or not. +Their verdict agreed with the statement of the villagers and so we were +obliged to negotiate for a lodging place. + +After some parley we were allowed to stop in the sheik's public room. +There was not a dry spot about the town, but by riding up close to the +door, we were able to dismount on a large log, and then jump across a +mud puddle to the doorsill, and so enter the room assigned to us. It +would be hard to make anyone who has not seen such houses realize what +this room was like. It was about twenty feet square, with one door and +no window. The lack of this latter was partly supplied by the fact that +the wall of the house had tumbled in at one corner, leaving a ragged +hole through which light and air entered freely. The floor was of dirt +and at two levels. One half, which was used to accommodate people, was +reached by a high step and was comparatively dry. In the middle of this +higher floor was a smoldering wood fire, from which the smoke had +colored the roof timbers a shiny black. The lower half of the floor was +on a level with the ground outside or even a little lower, and was +decidedly muddy. This section was for the accommodation of horses and +cattle. When our party was all inside, so that we could take a census, +we found that the occupants of the room for the night were to be, +besides myself and my wife, the three muleteers, a cook and a Syrian +maid accompanying us to the city. We were in the higher part of the +room. In the other part were two horses, four mules, a goat and a calf. +These were the visible animals, and anyone who has traveled under +similar conditions will appreciate what is meant when I say there were +myriads of other creatures which made themselves known through other +senses than sight. + +The sheik was seated by the fire, warming himself, and gave us a scant +welcome. We took such a supper as we were able to provide in the +circumstances, and prepared to be as comfortable as possible for the +night. One of the men had been suffering from malaria and so I prepared +for him, and others in the party, a dose of quinine, after the fatigue +and exposure of the day. The sheik immediately asked what it was, and +desired a dose for himself and the other men present. It was the same +principle as that which makes bargain sales attractive. Something is +going cheap or gratis, and so I must have it, whether I need it or not. +Doses were given out to all who wished for it, for a few grains of +quinine seldom go amiss in this country. Conversation was not very +lively, about that smoky fire, as we were tired and there were not many +topics of common interest. At length our cook thought he would +facilitate matters a little. He had lived with foreigners long enough to +know the advantage of appealing to the gallantry of men toward the +ladies, so he said in his most ingratiating tone to the sheik, "The lady +is tired and would like to go to sleep." "Well, let her do so, there is +no objection." With a scarcely restrained chuckle, the cook subsided for +a time and then tried again, saying this time, "The Effendi (gentleman) +is tired and would be much obliged if you would leave so that he may +sleep." This was a different proposition and seemed to meet something of +a response. Shortly, one of those present got up and went over into the +corner of the room where he spread out his cloak and proceeded to his +Moslem devotions. When he was through, another followed him with equal +deliberation, and we began to doubt whether we should sleep before +morning. At length the last one withdrew and we were left to ourselves, +including the attendants and animals mentioned before. We spread our +camp bedsteads in the driest part of the room and made ready to sleep. +It was not long, however, before the rain began to fall, and very soon +the roof began to leak over our heads. We spread rubber coats over +ourselves and raised our umbrellas over our heads and tried to see the +humor of the situation. At early dawn we were up and packed our goods +for a new start. The river had fallen sufficiently in the night to +permit our crossing, though with some difficulty. On the farther bank we +found a party of people waiting until the stream should subside +sufficiently to allow them to cross with their small donkeys. + +Every summer it is necessary to make a change from the heat of the plain +to the more bracing air of the mountains. This is not a vacation, for +the missionary's work goes on with little variation, wherever he may be, +but it involves a change of base and the setting up of a simple +household in different surroundings. In those earlier years the mountain +life was exceedingly simple and the means of transportation most crude. +The village of Hadeth is accessible from Tripoli and in a beautiful +situation, directly opposite the famous grove of Cedars of Lebanon. It +lies on a ridge in the mountains at an elevation of some forty-five +hundred feet above the sea. More than one season have we spent in the +house of old Abu Maroon, the village carpenter. The house consisted of +four large rooms, opening on a long, arched porch which extended the +full length of the house. The floors were of dirt and the walls roughly +plastered with mud. We rented three of these rooms, the owners occupying +the fourth. The partitions between the rooms were made of brushwood, +plastered on both sides with mud. These partitions extended only about +three fourths of the way to the roof, leaving ample space above for +ventilation and conversation. The uncovered twigs and small branches at +the top of these partitions made an attractive, artistic feature, very +pleasing to many of our visitors. One of the regular household duties in +those mountain houses was the renewing of the mud on the floors. Every +week or two it was necessary to remove everything from the rooms, spread +a fresh coat of watery mud over the floor, and polish it off with a +smooth, round stone kept for the purpose. We could then anticipate +reasonable freedom from fleas for another period. + +The only way to reach a summer resort was on horseback, over very rough +bridle paths. All furniture had to be transported by mules in like +manner; folding chairs and tables, camping utensils and necessary +bedding had to be made into suitable bundles; indispensable supplies had +to be provided and mules secured to carry all to the mountains. It was a +long, hard day's ride and the party was sure to be pretty tired the +first night of arrival, but the renewed vigor in the fresh mountain air +gave new strength for the resumption of life on the hotter plain in the +fall and it was well worth all the trouble it cost. + +When it is possible to secure a week or two for real rest, there is no +more delightful way to accomplish the purpose than to make a camp in the +cedar grove. This clump of trees lies in a basin in the higher +mountains, about six thousand feet above sea level. On the east and +north, and somewhat on the south, the mountains rise about this great +amphitheater to about four thousand feet more, being the highest +mountains anywhere in Syria. Large patches of snow lie perpetually on +these highest mountains, but the slopes are bare, having no trees nor +shrubs beyond clumps of thorns and scanty grass where the melting snows +afford some moisture. Flocks of goats range over these barren slopes, +gaining a scanty subsistence. In the days of Solomon and Hiram of Tyre +these mountains were probably covered with cedar forests. Nowadays only +small sections are so covered, though on many of the bare heights the +people still dig up the old stumps of great cedar trees, which they sell +for fuel in the cities. + +On the entire mountain range there is left no single grove of really +ancient cedars, except the one of which I have spoken, known among the +people as the "Cedars of the Lord" or simply as "The Cedars." It is +impossible to speak with certainty of the age of these great trees, but +from what we know of their slow growth and the size of many of the +trunks, it is safe to place their age in the thousands of years. There +are more than four hundred trees in the grove and their reputed sanctity +has protected them from destruction. Some forty years ago one of the +governors of Mount Lebanon had a wall built inclosing the grove and a +guardian appointed. This affords protection from goats, and now a number +of small trees are growing up to perpetuate the grove in generations to +come. If proper steps were taken for reforesting the whole of Lebanon, +there would be a great improvement in many ways, and the agricultural +wealth of the country would be greatly increased. + +To establish a camp among these grand old trees is a most delightful way +to spend a short vacation. The silence of the nights under the spreading +branches; the fragrance of the foliage; the soothing sigh of the breeze +among the tree tops; the beautiful and ever-changing colors on the +higher mountain slopes; the beautiful outlook to the west over the +narrow valley out to the distant Mediterranean; all these influences +tend to quiet the tired nerves, refresh the exhausted brain and draw the +discouraged heart back to quiet and rest in the hand of the Master. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +PERSECUTION + + +Late one afternoon as I was sitting in my study, the doorbell rang and a +young man from Hamath entered, showing every token of great excitement +and fatigue. He had just arrived on the diligence from Homs. As soon as +he was sufficiently composed to give me a clear story, he told me that +the preacher in Hamath had been suddenly arrested by the local +authorities, and after somewhat rough treatment, had been sent under +guard to Damascus, a journey of five days on horseback, as it was before +the era of railroads. So far as I could learn from my informant, the +case was one of flagrant persecution, with no culpable occasion behind +it. The first thing to be done was to quiet the excitement of our +friend, who had brought the word himself rather than trust a written +message. Giving him a chance to rest, I made hasty arrangements for a +night ride to Beirut. The moon would rise about ten o'clock and I +arranged for two riding horses to be ready for us before midnight. We +set out together through the olive orchards under the witchery of the +moonlight. It would have been a pleasant experience under other +circumstances. The road follows the general line of the seashore, at +times close to the breaking waves, and again rising on a rocky bluff at +whose base the blue sea keeps up an incessant murmur. In the silent +night the play of advancing and retreating waves gives a constantly +varied effect of light and sound. + +Before noon we reached Beirut and consulted with various missionary +friends and the consuls of America, England and Germany, who take an +interest in matters affecting the Protestants in Turkey. It was decided +that our Hamath friend should go at once to Damascus, while I awaited +word from him whether my presence was needed. The following day a +telegram agreed upon between us brought the brief message, "Better +come." The old French diligence in those days made the trip across Mount +Lebanon to Damascus in something over thirteen hours, a rather fatiguing +day. On the evening of my arrival we had a conference of the immediate +circle of friends, and the arrested man himself was among us. This was a +thoroughly characteristic incident, under Turkish administration, and so +merits a word of explanation. During the journey from Hamath to +Damascus, friendly relations had been established between the prisoner +and his escort, so that the latter were willing to accommodate their +prisoner in any reasonable measure. It was agreed upon that they should +not announce their arrival nor report to their superiors for a few days +until the prisoner secured a little rest and made arrangements for his +defense. Hence I was informed by our friend himself that he would not +arrive in Damascus "officially" for several days. + +It is needless to go into all the details of this event but the +animating cause of the incident has its humorous as well as its +enlightening side. Some time before, our friend had wished to compliment +the man who was at the time governor of Hamath. Being of a literary turn +he wrote a flattering poem to present on a suitable occasion. +Indiscreetly he worked into his poem serious reflections on another man +who was the governor's enemy and who held a similar post at a distance. +The governor was so pleased that the poem was printed for distribution +and a copy reached the hands of the other man, who was naturally not +pleased with it. In the subsequent shifting of appointments this very +man became governor of Hamath, and found a way to vent his spite at the +poet. + +When looked at from a safe perspective, most of the so-called +persecution in Syria has a predominant touch of humor in it. The most +convenient and suitable place for Tripoli missionary families to spend +their summers is in the village of Hadeth close to the summer seat of +the Maronite patriarch. The whole valley is considered sacred, and hence +strongly guarded against the pollution of any heretical evangelical +influences. For a number of years the ecclesiastics tried, in every way +they could devise, to make us trouble and to prevent our securing houses +in the town, or finding any comfort when we did so. During one summer +they were especially aggressive and seemed determined to be rid of us. +The priests warned everyone against serving us in any way, and against +selling us anything to eat. For a few days our servant had to go to a +neighboring town to buy supplies. The woman who had been doing our +washing sent word she could not come. A special conclave assembled and +summoned our landlord, threatening all sorts of vengeance if he did not +turn us out. They said that a mob would destroy his house over our +heads. The poor old man came to me in great fear, knowing the +unscrupulousness of his opponents, and thinking they might get up some +false accusation against him in the government and cast him into prison +or subject him to needless loss or expense. I assured him they would not +dare touch us or attack his property and that the whole plan was to +frighten us into leaving town, if possible. I told him that we were to +leave on a certain day in October. When the hostile party learned this, +they drew up a pledge that the Americans were to be expelled from town +on the day I had indicated, under a forfeit of fifty pounds from the +landlord to the local church. He was also required to go to the church +and apologize publicly to the people, kiss the floor of the church in +front of the picture of the Virgin, and pay a pound into the treasury. +He was then accepted as in good and regular standing, and all waited for +the appointed day. Unfortunately I did not know of this until it was too +late to change our plans. On the day appointed we left town with our +household goods and as we rode away we heard the church bells ringing +out a peal of rejoicing to celebrate the cleansing of the town. Times +have changed now, and the same priest who led in the opposition then +will call upon us and crack jokes about the times gone by. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +EMIGRATION + + +The period of my life in Syria has witnessed the rapid development of +emigration. In former days there was very little travel among the +people, the marriage of a girl to a man in a neighboring village being a +notable and rather rare occurrence. It was no unusual thing for a person +to spend his whole life without ever going so much as ten miles from his +birthplace. I was entertained for supper one night at the home of a +wealthy Moslem in Homs. The old father of our host was present and I +entered into conversation with him as to the experiences of his long +life. He told me that he had taken four wives, as permitted by Moslem +law. He had twenty sons who had all grown up and married in Homs. He +said that his grandsons numbered about a hundred, all of whom he knew +by face, though he might not be able to fit the right name to each, at +first sight. Knowing him to be quite wealthy, I asked whether he had +traveled much. My first question was whether he had been to the +seashore, some sixty-five miles away at Tripoli. He had never seen the +sea. "Have you been to Damascus?" This would appeal more to a devout +Moslem, since the sea is always associated more or less with the unholy +foreigners of Christian faith, while Damascus is an ancient seat of +Moslem power and glory. "No, I have never seen Damascus," was his +answer. "Well, surely you have been to Hamath?" This is only thirty +miles distant. "No," he said, "I never went to Hamath." "Have you passed +your whole life right here in Homs?" "Once," he said, "I made a journey +out among the Arabs of the desert, to buy sheep." That was the extent of +traveling by an intelligent, well-to-do Moslem of the old school. + +Some thirty or forty years ago a change began among the people and a +few enterprising men sought more favorable opportunities for making a +living in foreign lands. Many of them were successful and encouraged +others to follow them, until now the most profitable business of the +steamships calling at Syrian ports is the carrying of emigrants back and +forth. The weekly exit is numbered by the hundreds, and large numbers +also return from time to time. Few of those who return to Syria remain +for any length of time, for, having once tasted the liberty and +experienced the opportunities of life in western lands, they are no +longer content to fall back into the old, slow, unprofitable methods of +the Orient. A notable change has also come over the character of the +emigration in another respect. At first it was only the more +enterprising, vigorous young men who went abroad to seek their fortunes. +Now whole families go together. Women and girls emigrate as freely as +men. At first it was only Christians who sought to improve their +condition in Christian lands; now Moslems and Nusairiyeh go as freely as +do the Christians. + +At first this emigration was a blind flight from poverty and oppressive +conditions at home, with little understanding of the places to which the +emigrants were going. They placed themselves literally in the hands of +the steamship agents in Marseilles. Taking passage from Syria to +Marseilles, they were shipped on from there in bunches, according to the +advantage of the agent into whose hands they fell. They might be sent to +Argentine, while the friends to whom they were going were in +Massachusetts. They might be sent to Sierra Leone or to Capetown, but it +was all America in their minds. The simple idea of geography in those +days seemed to divide the world into two parts, Syria and America. The +common people know far better now, for they discuss intelligently the +conditions of life and business in the various parts of the world. +Syrians are to be found in every one of the United States, from Maine to +Florida, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific. They are in Alaska, the +Sandwich Islands and the Philippines. They are in every country of +Central and South America, in the West Indies and in all parts of +Africa. In many places they have bought property and made permanent +business arrangements. + +In the early years there were many indications of their lack of +experience in money matters and general business methods. One man in +Brazil had accumulated quite a sum of money and wished to return home. +He did not understand the simplicity of taking a draft on London from +the bank, and was averse to parting with good gold for a mere slip of +paper. He changed all his money into English sovereigns and put the +whole nine hundred into a belt, which he secured around his body under +his clothes. He did not dare remove his treasure day or night during the +weeks of journey, enduring the weight and pressure until he reached +home. He was then taken sick and nearly lost his life from kidney +trouble induced by this folly. + +Another young man in Mexico started home by way of New York. He knew +that English and French gold are current in Syria, and was sure that +American gold was every bit as good. So he exchanged his money for +American gold coin. It came to my attention through a man who came to me +with a twenty-dollar gold piece, and asked what it was worth. When I +told him its real value, he showed such surprise as to arouse my +curiosity. It appeared that this coin, with one like it, had been given +as betrothal token for his daughter. Subsequently the engagement was +broken by the young man and so, in accordance with oriental custom, the +token was forfeited. The father, wishing to realize on the coin, took it +to a local goldsmith who pretended to examine it carefully and then +offered three dollars for it. The father was disappointed at this +appraisal and indignant that his daughter should have been rated so low. +The reaction, when he found the coin to be worth nearly seven times as +much as he had been informed, was almost too much for him. + +One matter connected incidentally with the emigration has been the call +for assistance in handling money for those abroad. In the earlier years +there were no adequate banking facilities outside of Beirut and so the +people began to send back money to their families through the hands of +friends who were merchants living in the various seaport towns. In +several cases unscrupulous men took advantage of the general ignorance +in money matters to secure abnormal profits to themselves, and in more +than one instance, through fraudulent bankruptcy, cheated the people out +of hundreds of pounds. Those who were in any way connected with the +American missionaries began sending their money to us, and at last we +were obliged to conduct quite an extensive banking business. In some +years drafts for several thousand pounds would come to me in sums +ranging from two or three pounds to several hundred at a time. These +were to be paid out to various relatives or to be held on deposit until +the owners' return. On one occasion I opened a registered letter from +Brazil and found in it a draft on London for ten pounds. On reading the +letter I found it to be written by a man I did not know, in behalf of +another stranger, and that the money was to be paid to an entire +stranger in a village I had never seen. It was enough for the sender to +know that his money was in the hands of an American missionary. + +On one occasion a returned emigrant came to my associate with a kerchief +full of silver and gold coins. He asked the privilege of depositing this +with the mission until he needed it. As it was evidently a considerable +sum, he was advised to put it in the bank so as to secure some +interest, but he preferred to feel sure that his money was safe, even +though it earned nothing. Neither did he see any necessity of waiting +until the money should be counted and a regular entry made of it in the +books. It was enough that the missionary had charge of it. This open +account remained with us a number of years and sometimes amounted to two +thousand dollars. + +A man sent me from Venezuela a draft for a hundred pounds, charging me +to let no one know of it, but to hold the money until he should come. +After a long interval I learned that his wife was thinking of going to +join him, since no word had been received. I succeeded in dissuading +her, as I knew he was planning to come home and they might miss each +other in mid-ocean. The return was delayed, and before he arrived his +funds in my hands amounted to six or seven hundred pounds. + +The volume of emigration is growing every year and is taking away the +strength of the land, but better banking facilities have relieved us of +the financial cares formerly carried. The director of the Ottoman Bank +in Tripoli estimates the annual amount of money passing through this one +port in drafts from Syrians abroad as not less than seven hundred +thousand pounds sterling. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +SYRIAN ENTERPRISES + + +The final aim of mission work is the development of a self-supporting, +self-propagating Christian community, and hence the happiest experience +of a missionary's life is connected with the first independent +undertakings of the people whom he serves. In this connection there are +two interesting incidents connected with the life of the evangelical +church in Homs. There are men still living who remember when the gates +in the old city walls were closed every night at sunset, and a belated +traveler had to make himself as safe and comfortable as he could on the +outside until sunrise the next morning. When this old custom passed into +disuse, the city gradually outgrew the old limits and new sections +began to appear outside the old walls. When I first visited Homs, there +was already a large settlement on the north side of the old city, known +as the Hamidiyeh in honor of the reigning sovereign Abd-ul-Hamid. In +this section of the city were a number of evangelicals and it was most +desirable that there should be regular services in that section. Much +difficulty was found in renting suitable quarters, and a change was +necessary every year or two. At length one of the most prosperous men in +the church decided that a permanent chapel must be secured. The people +in that part of the city were poor and could not raise money to buy +property. He decided to set aside a certain sum, and let it accumulate +in his own business until he should have sufficient for the purpose. He +did so, and after some years was able to purchase and remodel a house in +the Hamidiyeh. That little chapel has been in constant use now for many +years for public service on the Sabbath and school during the week, and +is all the result of the generous thought of this one man. + +[Illustration: HOMS Boys' School] + +Early in the present century a zealous young man became the acting +pastor of the Homs church. He was constantly seeking for means to +strengthen the position of the evangelical church in the community and +was soon convinced of the importance of improving the schools, so as to +make them more effective and more attractive. He urged the church +forward in support of his plans, and raised the standard of work in the +schools. He himself was an indefatigable worker and inspired others with +the spirit of service. He gained the confidence of the man referred to +above and secured his help financially when needed. At length it seemed +to this pastor that all their efforts would be in vain unless he could +establish a boarding school for boys. It was not possible for the +mission to help in these plans at that time, and our earnest friend +decided to push ahead alone. A bequest was made to the evangelical +church in Homs by one of her members who died in Egypt. This was a +nucleus, and others were induced to contribute larger and smaller sums. +A beginning was made in temporary quarters in the city itself, while a +fine site was purchased outside for the permanent building. The school +was popular from the start, and, considering the cramped and unsuitable +quarters in which it was conducted, did admirable work. Syrians in Egypt +and America responded well to the appeal to their patriotism. A plain +but commodious building was erected on the new site and the school was +moved to its new home. The school has about four or five acres of land, +lying higher than any other plot near the city. This tract is inclosed +by a simple wall. Within is the two-story stone school building, with +accommodation for something over a hundred boarders, and a schoolroom +which might accommodate nearly twice that number. The kitchen and dining +room are in a simpler building adjacent. Thus has been provided a +convenient, healthful home for the school, with ample playground and +suitable surroundings. + +A Christian community which shows the strength and ability to organize +and conduct such enterprises as these has certainly a degree of vitality +which gives us every confidence in its growth and advance in the future. + +One of the greatest misfortunes, as it appears to me, in the situation +of the subject races in Turkey, is their inability to appreciate the +value and meaning of the word "loyalty." I have failed to find an Arabic +word in common use which conveys the fullness of what we mean by that +word "loyalty," and it seems to be because the people have had no +occasion to express the idea. It is an inestimable loss to a people to +live in such conditions, for there is an inevitable reaction upon +character and a blighting effect on all the relations of life. This +condition of things has grown rapidly in recent years, and most +evidently during the reverses of the Balkan war. It is an everyday +experience, in passing along the street, to hear people exclaiming +against the oppression and injustice of Turkish rule, with the +expression, "Anything would be better than the present condition." Nor +are such expressions any more frequent from Christians than from +Moslems. A member of one of the leading Mohammedan families was recently +quoted to me as saying: "We want an end of this business. We want the +English to come and take charge of us." One day as a merchant was taking +a bag of small coins from his safe to make a payment, he was warned not +to accumulate any large amount of these small coins, as they would +depreciate in value, if anything serious should happen to the Turkish +Government. With a look of disgust, he said, "I would gladly lose them +all and the silver coins, too, to be wholly rid of Turkey, once for +all." On another occasion a simple carriage driver expressed his views +in rough style, by saying, "Sir, the Devil himself would be an +improvement on the present state of things." Then more seriously, he +said, "We know we are not fitted for self-government, and what we want +most of all is England, or if that is impossible, then France." On a +railroad train there was one other passenger in the compartment with me. +While stopping at a station, something occurred to excite my companion +to violent abuse of the government. When he paused I said to him, "Sir, +how is it that you speak so, although you wear the fez?" He turned to me +and spoke most earnestly, but with no trace of excitement, saying, "Yes, +I am a Turk, and I am a Mohammedan, and nevertheless, I have no words +strong enough to express my contempt for the Turkish Government." All +these things are exceedingly sad, for it is an immeasurable loss to a +people if they cannot love and respect those whom they must obey. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +INTERRUPTIONS + + +Our life in Syria has been, on the whole, quiet, but it has not been +without its shadows. There is no life without its sorrows and unexpected +experiences. The comparative isolation of missionary life brings into +very close fellowship those who are cut off from the closer relationship +to friends in the homeland. One Sunday afternoon in the fall of 1906, I +was standing in the back of our chapel, awaiting the closing exercises +of the Sunday school. The telegraph messenger appeared at the door and +handed me a telegram, for which I signed without serious thought. When I +opened the paper and read the wholly unexpected message, all strength +seemed to leave me, and I hastened to a seat, lest I fall to the floor. +The message told of the sudden death of my brother-in-law, Rev. W. K. +Eddy of Sidon, while away from home on a tour. We had considered him one +of the most vigorous men in the mission, for whom years of active +service might be expected, and now in a moment he had been called away, +leaving his family and his work to others. It took time to realize the +situation but some things had to be done at once. I called my servant +and sent him to secure an animal, as I had to start at once for Sidon. +Arrangements had to be made for my absence, and the sad news had to be +broken to the Tripoli circle of friends. By five o'clock I was ready to +start, and I shall never forget that night's ride. The first twenty +miles were covered in the early evening hours, on horseback over a +rough, stony road, while the question kept ringing through my mind, "Why +should this be?" About ten o'clock I reached the carriage road where I +could take a more comfortable and speedy conveyance. All through the +dark night, as I jolted over the road, trying to get a little rest in +preparation for the hard day before me, I could not turn my mind from +the many problems connected with this sad experience. Who would take up +the work thus suddenly dropped? What plan would be made for the family +of growing children? The night was dark, but the dawn was approaching. +The way seemed dark, but the Father's love had brought us to this point +and he would not leave us to walk alone. In the early dawn, I reached +Beirut and found the missionary friends there ready to start for Sidon, +and so we all went on together, reaching the darkened home about noon. +The large assembly hall was filled in the afternoon for the funeral +services, and a great crowd of all classes of people marched out to the +cemetery, where the mortal remains of our loved brother and fellow +worker were laid away. Those are precious spots where we do the last +service on earth for those we have loved, but they are doubly precious +on the mission field where the distance from the great body of family +friends and relatives is so deeply felt. But these occasions strengthen +the ties that bind us to the hearts and lives of those among whom we +live and whom we serve. + +We had scarcely adjusted ourselves to this sorrow when another of the +hard experiences of life came upon us. The season had been one of +exceptionally heavy work and continuous strain, which showed in a +decided break in health. The doctors said work must be dropped at once +and the winter be spent in Egypt, if a more serious break were to be +avoided. It was not exactly a pleasure excursion on which we started +during the Christmas holidays. There was no time to write ahead and make +inquiries or arrangements, so we set out to a strange land among +strangers, in search of health. Finding no place which seemed suitable +in lower Egypt, we decided to go up the river to Assiyut, and wrote a +letter to Dr. Alexander, president of the United Presbyterian College +at that place. We had no personal acquaintance and no claim upon him, +but he was a missionary, and that was enough. + +It was a long ride and Egyptian railroads are nothing if not dusty. Our +spirits had not begun to rise yet, and we felt rather tired and wholly +disreputable in appearance, when we left the train at Assiyut, ready to +ask our way to the Greek hotel. But before we had a chance to do +anything, we saw a bright, cheery face, bearing an evident welcome, and +a hearty voice assuring us that the owner was Dr. Alexander and that he +had come to take us in charge. It was the first encouraging incident, +and lifted a weight from us at once. As we walked along he told us they +had held a conference over our case, and, having decided that we could +not be comfortable in the hotel, had placed at our disposal a rest room +provided in the hospital for members of their own mission or other +foreigners who needed rest and medical attention. A more perfect +provision for our need could not have been devised. We enjoyed the +companionship of the corps of foreign nurses, sharing their table and +home life. We had the constant companionship as well as the professional +services of the four medical missionaries. Is it a wonder that I began +to gain at once? After nine weeks we returned to our work, made over and +with a new lease of life, a new sense of the solidarity of Christian +fellowship, and a new realization of the heavenly Father's tender care. + +Such experiences as that winter at Assiyut show how entirely +denominational differences are forgotten on the mission field. In social +intercourse, in the prayer circle, in discussion of mission problems, in +the church service, in the pulpit, there was never anything to remind us +that we were only Presbyterians while our kind hosts were United +Presbyterians. It was a delightful opportunity for the cultivation of +fellowship, and for the observation of other forms and methods of +mission work, under conditions very different from ours in Syria. The +work in Egypt is relieved from many of the problems so insistent in +Turkey. There is no hostile government, always suspicious of every move +made by a foreigner. There is no such inefficiency in the government as +makes the lives of Turkish subjects always insecure and travel +dangerous. But, on the other hand, the climatic conditions in Egypt are +far more trying than in Syria, as the heat is extremely enervating for +most of the year. These climatic conditions undoubtedly account to some +extent for the less virile, independent character of the people. But +whatever the differences in climate, whatever the differences in the +character of the people, whatever the differences in governmental +relations, we came back from Egypt more than ever impressed with the +fact that the conflict is one, the object aimed at is one, and the body +of workers is one, under the direction of our one Lord and Master. + +In 1911 there came another break in the routine life of the field, but +with no such sorrow in it as in the former incidents. The second +Conference for Workers in Moslem Lands met in Lucknow in January 1911 +and our mission chose me as its delegate to that conference. The journey +through the Suez Canal and down the Red Sea and across the Arabian Sea +to Bombay was one of the experiences of life never to be forgotten. +There were enough of us going on the same journey to form a little group +of sympathetic companions and we had many an opportunity at table and on +deck to talk over the matters connected with our life work. + +The contrasts in the streets of Bombay are similar to those seen in all +the changing Orient, but with characteristic differences calculated to +catch the eye of one accustomed to the nearer East. Nowhere in Turkey do +you find such broad, magnificent, paved thoroughfares as those in +Bombay, and yet, beside the track of the electric trolley, you see a +crude cart jogging along behind the humpbacked bullock. On the pavements +you see elaborately dressed ladies from Europe, or from the wealthy +Parsee families, with their Paris gowns and modern hats, and almost at +their elbows the dark-skinned members of the sweeper caste, clad in a +simple loin cloth. You step out of the finely appointed barber shop in +your modern hotel, with its polite, English-speaking attendant, to see +by the roadside a group of swarthy Indians, crouching on the ground, as +one of their number shaves the crowns of their heads. + +The tourist in Galilee in the spring of the year is impressed by the +variety and brilliancy of color all about him in the wild flowers of the +fields. As we walked the streets of Bombay, the same impression was made +upon us by the brightness and variety in the headdress of the men. If +there is any color known to the dyers' art not found among the turbans +of Bombay it is merely because no samples have as yet been sent there. +Every shape as well as every shade is found, and it would almost seem as +if the excessive attention paid to the head covering had exhausted the +energy of the people, leaving no desire or ability to devise any +covering for the rest of the body. A stranger may wonder also at first +why everyone seems to have forgotten to wash his face. Those curious +blotches of varicolored clay on the forehead are not accidental nor an +indication of carelessness to one's personal appearance. On the +contrary, they indicate fidelity to religious duty and reveal to the +initiated the special temple most recently visited by the devout +worshiper. For a transient visitor, this variety and intricacy are +puzzling, but to the initiated everything has its meaning and the +varieties of headdress tell the tale of religious affiliation and caste +gradation. + +Comfortable train service carried us quickly to the north, giving us +glimpses of Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital, with its reminders of the +mutiny; and Agra with its matchless architectural gem, the Taj Mahal. We +reached Agra at the close of the day, and after locating ourselves at +the hotel, set out on foot to have our first glimpse of the Taj by +moonlight. No matter what one may have read of this wonderful building, +no matter what pictures or models one may have seen, I have yet to meet +a person who has not been most deeply impressed by the first vision of +the reality. The approach through the dark foliage of the quiet garden +gives a chance for the impressive grandeur of the marble structure to +fix itself in the visitor's mind. By the time he enters the spacious +archway, he has begun to appreciate the perfection of the curves, the +nobility of the dimensions, the purity of the white marble and the +graceful dignity of the whole combination. The beautifully inlaid black +lettering from the Koran follows the curves of the lofty arch overhead, +adding a sense of sacredness to the entrance. And yet, when one is +inside, he almost forgets the impressions received without. In place of +stateliness and grandeur, we find here a beauty of finish and exactness +of detail which surpass all the more massive qualities of the exterior. +The central tomb is surrounded by a marble screen carved with a delicacy +that makes one forget the marble and think he sees before him the most +perfect and delicate lace veil. The pillars and panels of the screen, +the inner walls of the building, as well as the sides of the tomb +itself, are decorated with the most beautifully inlaid work of vines and +wreaths of flowers represented in their natural colors, in the most +delicate shades of precious stone. One wonders to find such exquisite +work anywhere and the wonder increases when one realizes that this is +not the product of modern skill and patience, but that it has stood +here, from the days of the Mogul Empire, when we consider that India was +a land of barbarians. And more than this is to follow, for this +wonderful mausoleum was erected at fabulous cost by a Moslem ruler, in +memory of his wife. + +We were not in India merely as sightseers. After a night ride on the +train we reached Lahore in the early morning and at the station received +the hearty welcome of J. C. R. Ewing, D.D., president of Forman +Christian College. Again in northern India we had the loving handclasp +of a fellow missionary and the cordial welcome to a missionary home. The +short visit there could give us but a faint impression of what that +college is doing for the Punjab and what a position and influence the +missionaries have among the people of every class, whether Indian or +British. Never did I have such a vivid impression of the awful +experiences of the mutiny, or the wonderful changes wrought by British +rule in India, as when I stood on some of the memorable spots at +Cawnpore and Lucknow, and reviewed the record of treachery and loyalty, +cowardice and bravery, cruelty and gallantry, which were developed in +the awful experiences of the Mutiny. To-day, no matter what may be the +restlessness and uncertainty of the situation, India is a united +country, and not a medley of hostile principalities and warring +kingdoms. Railroads cover the land in every direction with an efficient +service. Perfect carriage roads make the land a paradise for motor cars +and bicycles. Military encampments near all the large cities assure +security of life and property. Schools and colleges are extending +knowledge in every direction. Wealth is taking place of poverty, +knowledge of ignorance, light of darkness, and religion is coming into +its own as a real force in human life and no longer as merely a badge of +faction or clan. + +The gathering at Lucknow was notable. Delegates of many nationalities +gathered in that hall. Workers in many lands and in widely differing +conditions, we came together for a common purpose. Members of many +Christian denominations, we united in the worship of one Master. +Differences were forgotten in a deeper union. Whatever allegiance we +owed to earthly sovereigns, we met as children of the heavenly King. +Whatever may have been the language of our ordinary service, here we had +but one language--that of loving fellowship. We were members of separate +bands of commissioners, coming together at the feet of our Leader to ask +for fuller instructions in the pursuit of his work. + +The keynote of the Lucknow Conference was to win the Moslem world by +love, the love of Christ incarnate in his messenger. It is one of the +most hopeful signs in the advancement of the kingdom that the attractive +power of love is more prominent than the overwhelming power of argument. +It is a great help to the right placing of this emphasis that workers in +many lands, of many nations, of many denominations, are drawing nearer +together and working more in harmony. I returned from India, rejoicing +in all I had seen of God's power and blessing in that land, but with a +deeper conviction that the work in India, in China, in Africa, in Syria +is all one work, under one Master. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +OUR SUPPORTERS + + +One of the brightest things in the missionary's happy lot is the +beautiful relation existing between those on the field and those whom +they represent in the homeland. Many years ago we were calling, one +evening, upon our landlord in Tripoli. The eldest son had recently +returned from America, and in the course of conversation the father +asked from what part of the United States we came, in order to see +whether his son had been in the same vicinity. The son at once replied: +"I know the name of the place, but I do not know in what state it is. +They come from Private Funds." We could not think at first what he +meant, but then discovered that he had found a missionary report among +some old magazines thrown out from the house. In this he had seen our +names in a list of missionaries, giving the name of the society by which +each was supported. Seeing "Private Funds" opposite our names, he +thought it must be the name of the town from which we came, though, as +he said, he did not know in what state it was located. A little +knowledge is truly a dangerous thing. + +The relation indicated by those words, which has subsisted for +twenty-five years, has been most happy. When I was a senior in the +seminary and had already made my application to the Foreign Board, I +received a letter from Mr. George D. Dayton of Minnesota. He was the son +of an elder in my father's old church in Geneva, only a few years older +than I, but already a prosperous business man whose generosity in the +Lord's work was becoming well known. He urged upon me the need and +opportunity in the home mission field of the growing northwest. I +answered him, explaining as fully as I could, the reasons that had led +me to decide that my life should be devoted to another field, realizing +that my answer would be a disappointment to him and might cause some +weakening of the ties of friendship already strong between us. + +The next that I heard of the subject was that Mr. Dayton had written to +the Foreign Board, assuming our support as the personal representatives +of his family in the foreign field. Thus, instead of weakening our +friendship, my choice was the beginning of a closer and warmer relation +than ever. It has always been recognized as a family matter, and I shall +never forget the comfort and strength that came to us in one of the +early years through a letter from Mr. Dayton. It was written on Sunday +afternoon, and contained words to this effect: "To-day was the time +appointed for the annual offering for foreign missions in our church. +Before going to church I gathered the family together and talked to the +children about you as our representatives in Syria. Then we united in +prayer at the family altar for God's blessing on you. At church I placed +in the collection my check for the amount I have pledged to the Board +for your support." Through letters and visits in the home when on +furlough, this delightful relation has grown more and more precious as +the years have passed, and it has been a pleasure to acknowledge that we +come from Private Funds, which, we are sure, is situated in the State of +Felicity, in the United States of Brotherly Love. + +It has been said that a missionary furlough is an excellent thing if it +is not needed too urgently. We have had two most thoroughly enjoyable +furloughs in the homeland, during our missionary life. Each visit to +America has tended to refresh and invigorate us most admirably for a new +period of service and we have added many to the circle of friends who +encourage us in our work and keep vigorous the connecting link with the +workers at home. The periods of our absence from America have had a +curious coincidence with the change in methods of locomotion in America. +When we first came to Syria in 1888, the horse car was still supreme in +American cities. Experimental lines of electric trolleys were being +tried in certain places, but I had never seen an electric car. When we +returned to America in 1897, we found the trolley in all the cities, and +I remember being disturbed, the first Sunday in Philadelphia, by a +strange whirring sound during the morning service. I could think of no +explanation except the weird creaking of the great water wheels in +Hamath, but there were no such waterworks in Philadelphia. I soon became +familiar with the hum of the trolley. + +During that first furlough, there was much written in the magazines +about automobiles, and people were wondering whether the auto would +really be practicable, but I did not see a machine. Our first sight of +an auto was in Cairo, in Egypt. We reached America on our second +furlough in 1908, and the first day on shore gave us our first ride in +an auto, which we found rapidly taking a recognized place in American +everyday life. Again the magazines had much to say about the a�roplane, +but we did not see one while in America. My first sight of a human flyer +was at Allahabad, in India. It looks now as if a ride in an a�roplane +might not be a strange experience in our third furlough. + +The meeting of earnest Christian workers all over the land, in +conventions and missionary meetings, is a real refreshment physically +and spiritually. So long as the missionary's health is good, he finds it +a joy to speak for the cause and mingle with the workers at home. I +traveled a good many miles to meet appointments on each furlough. I +spoke on many platforms, and the cordial welcome extended and the close +attention paid to the message were an ample reward for whatever there +was of fatigue in the service. Many times I felt humiliated by what +seemed to me the extreme and unmerited deference paid to us, simply +because we were foreign missionaries. So far as Syria is concerned, the +missionary of to-day asks for no sympathy on the score of physical +privations. We are in close touch with European and American +civilization. We can obtain whatever is necessary for physical wellbeing +and comfort. The climate is not excessively enervating and we can have +good homes. There are many things that are trying in the life of a +missionary, but no more so than in the lives of many workers in the +homeland. + +The isolation from friends and relatives is often one of the most trying +features of missionary life. When sickness or death enter the family +circle far away, it is not easy to think of the miles of restless ocean +that lie between us and them. The whole unchristian, unsympathetic +atmosphere makes life hard at times, but the compensations are so many +that it makes one ashamed to be held up as a model of self-sacrifice. +The missionary feels, as the earnest worker at home feels, and as Paul +felt years ago, when he said, "The love of Christ constraineth us." + +The first home-going was peculiarly happy, for in neither of the two +family circles had there been any break. The only changes had come by +marriage and birth. The circles were expanding, and there was no place +vacated during the period of our absence. The second going was very +different in this respect. Many who had been vigorous were feeble. Many +who had bidden us a bright farewell were not present to welcome us on +our return. Children had become men and women. There were wrinkles on +the faces and gray hair on the heads of those whom we had expected to +find still as young as we were. But, somehow, it began to dawn on us +that we ourselves were no longer counted among the young folks in the +church. + +The general recollection of those two furloughs is one of bright smiles +and cheery welcomes, helpful handclasps and a joyous fellowship. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +PERSONAL FRIENDS + + +It was one of the most delightful phases of our experience in charge of +the boys' school to find how closely the ties of love to the boys bound +them to our hearts, and to realize that with many of them it was no mere +oriental compliment when they called us their father and mother. There +are many of those lads, now growing to manhood, in whose successes we +take a parental pride, and for whose growth in all that is good and true +we pray, with parental earnestness. Among the many preachers and +teachers in all the churches and schools, we count many as most truly +our brethren and fellow workers for the Master. There are very many +Syrians in all parts of America, as well as in this land, of whom we +think in terms of truest brotherhood. It is with no sense of +disparagement to the multitude that I have selected three of the elders +in our churches for special mention. It has seemed to me, as I look back +over their lives, that there are some specially suggestive elements in +the way the Lord has led them and blessed them, which are worthy of +special note. At the same time these experiences have brought all three +into specially close relations with myself personally. I shall mention +them in the order of the commencement of my acquaintance with them. + +In 1885, before I entered the mission, I was for a few months in Syria, +merely as a visitor. It happened that the College in Beirut was +short-handed that year, and in need of an additional teacher. Dr. Bliss +asked me to help them out and so I became for two months a member of the +teaching force in the preparatory department. During this time I made +the acquaintance of a lad in the senior class of that department, named +Towfik Sallum. He was a quiet, studious lad, who made no trouble and was +always busy with his books or seeking to increase his English +vocabulary. In the brief time of my remaining in the college, my +acquaintance was slight and the memory of this boy would have passed +from my mind, had there been no subsequent association. When I became a +member of the Tripoli Station and made the acquaintance of the various +workers in the field, I found that this lad was the brother of the +preacher in Hamath. Their father had been the first preacher in that +church, and upon his death the eldest son had succeeded to his father's +position in the church, as well as to the parental responsibility for +the care and training of his younger brothers. Towfik spent some years +in the service of the mission as teacher, in intervals of his college +course. In 1892 he was graduated with honor, and in 1896 took his degree +in medicine also. He settled at once in Hamath, where he was well known +personally, and where his family associations made a valuable +professional asset. The conditions of life in ancient Hamath are +exceedingly primitive and only a small portion of the population have +any intelligent appreciation of the value of modern medicine. +Perseverance and tact won their way and a valuable practice was built +up. With increasing years and widening acquaintance, the doctor became +generally known, universally trusted, and highly respected in government +circles as well as among the people. In case the governor wished a +reliable report on any case of attack or murder, he was sure to send Dr. +Sallum to investigate. He was to be trusted to tell the truth. + +When the new constitution was promulgated in 1908, it was provided that +all religious sects were to be entitled to representation in the local +administrative courts in rotation, irrespective of the size of those +bodies. Formerly only the largest of the Christian sects had been +allowed representation. This provision gave the Protestants a right to +civil equality and they put forward Dr. Sallum as their representative. +He was accepted, and served most creditably for the term of two years. +It was then the turn of the Catholic sect to have a representative, and +the heads of the various bodies were summoned by the governor to arrange +for the choice of the new member. The governor explained the situation +and said that as the Protestants had held the office for two years, it +was now the right of the Catholics to choose a representative to succeed +the Protestant member. Then, turning to the Catholic priest, he said, +"If you have a candidate who is more capable than Dr. Sallum or who is +his equal, we shall be glad to welcome him, but if not, I should advise +you to ask him to continue in office, acting now as representative of +the Catholics." The priest replied most cordially that his sect would be +delighted to be represented by Dr. Sallum, if he would consent. In this +way the doctor has become practically a permanent member of the +governor's council, acting alternately for the Protestants and the +Catholics. At the same time the proud member of the large Greek Orthodox +sect has to give place every two years to the member chosen by the +Jacobite church. + +In 1892 I was in Homs for the administration of the sacraments. Among +those who came in on Saturday evening was Mr. Rafool Nasser, a young man +who had not been long identified with the Protestant church. He told me +that he wished to have his little girl baptized the next day. He had +been married for several years and this was the first child, so the +occasion was one of more than usual joy. The next morning, before the +service began, I saw Mr. Nasser come in and take a seat quite at the +back of the church, contrary to his usual custom. He seemed depressed +and I wondered what had occurred. When the time came for baptisms he +made no move to come forward and so I proceeded with the children who +were presented. At the close of the service I inquired into the matter, +and learned that Mr. Nasser had informed his wife the evening before +that the little girl was to be baptized the next day. His wife then +informed him that she had already had the child baptized secretly by the +priest. This explained the depression I had noticed in the father's +face. Two years later the parents stood together while I baptized the +second child, and all the others have been presented without question +for the rite of baptism. This was the beginning of my acquaintance with +Mr. Nasser, with whom I have been somewhat intimate in recent years. + +He was a man of prominent family in Homs and has been highly prospered +in business, having become one of the most substantial men of the city. +Most of the successful men of Homs owe their prosperity to business +conducted in Egypt. They spend the winters in Egypt, advancing money to +the peasants on their cotton crops and also furnishing them certain +classes of imported goods on credit. It has been a profitable business, +even to those who have not been led away by the temptation of avarice to +impose on the simplicity of the Egyptian peasant. On one occasion I was +talking to Mr. Nasser about the high standards of morality obligatory on +the true Christian merchant. He then told me the following incident in +the simplest manner. As a young man he started with his cousin on a very +small capital. They invested their cash capital in stock for their +little store, purchasing so far as they could on credit. Mr. Nasser +returned to Homs, leaving his cousin in charge of the business in Egypt. +Scarcely had he reached home when word came of the complete destruction +of their store and all its contents by fire. It was a heavy blow for the +young men, and the first impulse was to go through bankruptcy, settle up +as well as they could and give up the enterprise. Friends and creditors +came to their help and volunteered to scale down their claims and +furnish new capital for the two men to start again. They were prospered +from the beginning. After some years Mr. Rafool Nasser decided that he +was unwilling to have the friends who were so kind to him suffer from +the old loss. He wrote to his cousin, saying that he had no wish to +control his partner's action, but asking him to pay off his share of +those old losses carried by their friends after the fire, and charge the +amount against his personal account. The cousin wrote back, "Whatever +you do, I shall do also." In the light of this incident, will anyone say +that commercial honor is confined to the West? + +There was a long period of hesitation, after Mr. Nasser was convinced +intellectually of the truth of the evangelical faith, before he joined +the Church. He has explained this to me in the following way: He knew +that if he gave in his adherence to the Protestant doctrine, his +conscience would require him to give far more of his possessions than he +had been accustomed to do in the Greek church. It took a long time to +bring his will to yield. In fact, his head was reached before his purse +was opened. He gave up the conflict at last and then said, in closing +the account of his experience, "I've gotten way beyond that now, for I +have learned the joy of giving." He is not a millionaire, but the Lord +has blessed him with considerable property, and he recognizes his +position as that of steward. He has been the leading spirit in the +enterprises of the Homs church, spoken of in another place. + +About the end of the year 1895, I was sitting one evening in my study +when the bell rang, and one of my neighbors, Mr. Yusuf Faris, entered. +He laid on my desk a bundle of Turkish silver dollars, amounting to some +thirty dollars American money. He said he had been looking over his +accounts for the year and found this balance in his tithe account, and +so he wished me to use it for him in a way that he indicated, in the +furtherance of the Lord's business. This was a little matter, but it was +a true index to the man. A few years previous to this he had moved to +the city from a neighboring village. Among his motives for this move was +to avoid being forced into a political position he felt to be +inconsistent with his new position as a Protestant Christian. He decided +to open a dry-goods store in the city, but was unwilling to conduct +business in the ordinary way of the country. He rented a very small shop +and brought his stock of goods from Beirut. He decided upon a fair +profit, and set his price on the goods. People were not accustomed to +this method and so were slow to buy from the new shop. When they found +him unvarying in his prices, they went away to buy elsewhere, getting, +perhaps, an inferior article at a slightly lower price. Mr. Faris had +his full share of determination and was not to be turned back from the +course upon which he had decided. He had an unfailingly pleasant manner +with everyone, and showed no resentment at those who bought elsewhere. +For months the sales in this little shop were not enough to pay the +rent, but there was no change of policy. Gradually people began to +compare more carefully and discovered that in no case were they able to +buy the same quality of goods elsewhere for less than Mr. Faris' first +price. They began to realize that it was a distinct saving of time and +temper to avoid the long haggling over prices to which they had been +accustomed. By degrees they began to buy from Mr. Faris, and it was not +long before some of the country shopkeepers would come to him with a +list of goods and ask to have them put up without even asking the +prices. Business grew, a larger shop was necessary, two shops, three +shops, until at present his goods fill three large storerooms, while a +fourth is necessary for his office and bookkeeping. Two months seldom +pass, and often less than a month, between trips to Beirut for fresh +goods, and he and his three grown sons are kept busy handling the +undertaking. + +In every good enterprise, in Tripoli, or in presbytery, Mr. Yusuf Faris +is a leader, with clear advice and generous subscriptions. When the home +mission work of the presbytery was organized, he was one of the leaders, +and has continued to be the main support of the work. When the plans for +the Tripoli Boys' School were under consideration and there was some +danger that lack of money and other considerations might necessitate the +removal of the school from Tripoli, Mr. Faris and his sons came forward +with a generous offer of financial help, during a period of years +aggregating nearly eighteen hundred dollars. This made him the third +largest individual donor and we were glad to place his picture among +those on the wall of the school reception room. In all the intercourse +of these years, while watching the growth and development of character +in this man, there has grown in my own heart a strength of personal +attachment such as I have seldom felt for any other in America or in +Syria. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL + + +The one enterprise which stands out most conspicuously in our life in +Syria and which has absorbed more of our thought and activity than any +other, is the boarding school for boys in Tripoli. In the earlier years +of our work in Tripoli field, I found an important item to be the +selection of promising candidates from the pupils in the village schools +for further education in one of the mission boarding schools. We were +anxious to encourage the higher education of boys, for in this respect +as in many others, north Syria is more backward than other parts of the +country. Means of communication were poor and it was not an easy thing +for people to send their children to a distance of four or five days' +travel. We used every means at our disposal to persuade reluctant +parents, offering free tuition and sometimes traveling expenses and help +with clothing. By all these means we could gather, from the whole +territory, a dozen, or fifteen, or, at most, twenty boys, whose parents +were willing to send them to school. + +[Illustration: TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL _First Home_] + +[Illustration: TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL _Second Home_] + +But emigration to America gradually opened the eyes of the people to the +commercial advantages of education. Ignorant parents who had gone abroad +began to send back money, with urgent instructions to put their boys in +the American schools. We found the number of applicants increasing and a +new willingness to pay, in part at least, for the education. Instead of +a dozen, we had sixty or more to provide for and the tide was rising. +Conditions were the same elsewhere and it was not easy for the other +schools to receive this larger number from our district. Why, then, +should our boys go so far from home? + +The eagerness of some of these lads to gain an education went to our +hearts, and the hardest thing we had to do was to refuse an earnest +pleader for whom we had no place left. One day in Homs a young man came +to me, pleading for a place in Sidon. He was making his own living as an +artisan, and had only a simple education. I wished to test his pluck and +pointed out all the difficulties in the way of one in his circumstances. +He had thought it all out and said he could work at his trade in the +summer vacations and earn enough for his clothing. But it was a five +days' journey to Sidon, and the cost of the journey must be provided for +in some way. There was not a moment's hesitation as he said, "I'll +walk." And he did walk, showing a manly contempt for obstacles in the +way of gaining an education. + +This growing demand for an education such as our American schools give, +with the increasing ability of many to pay the cost, seemed a clear call +for action. Our mission had been criticized for putting too much energy +and money into education, so it seemed a chance at the same time to take +a step in advance in the line of self-support. I did not wish to go +before the mission with my proposition until I had it well supported. +For this reason I wrote to Mr. George D. Dayton who has supported us +through all our missionary life, and laid the matter before him, making +two distinct requests. If such a school were to be a success, it must +have its own permanent premises, especially adapted to its use, and I +asked whether he would help us to secure this for the school. It did not +seem wise to wait however for the accomplishment of this purpose to open +the school. I was confident, myself, that the school could be made +self-supporting if the premises were provided, but I wished a guarantee +to lay before the mission, and so asked Mr. Dayton to underwrite the +enterprise to the extent of three hundred dollars a year, in case of a +deficit. He responded promptly, acceding to both requests. I was ready +then to go before the mission. Our proposition called for two things +from the Board, the addition of a missionary to our Tripoli station and +provision of rent for premises in which to open the school temporarily. +Both requests were granted and we were authorized to go ahead, even +before receiving our additional missionary. + +Ten years after opening the school, owing to removals and delay for +language study, the whole work of the station, with the addition of the +school, still rests on the shoulders of two men, who live in hope of +having their new associate, promised ten years ago. It has been like the +pursuit of a mirage or the fatuous end of the rainbow. More than once we +have given a sigh of satisfaction and said, "Well, next year, or at +latest, the year after, we shall be able to settle down to normal lines +and really do our work right." An emergency has always arisen somewhere, +our pleasant dreams have faded away, and we have settled down again to +try to carry the extra load; but each time this is done, the weight +seems to press more heavily and a sense of discouragement steals into +the tired heart. + +We were ready to begin school in 1903 and had laid in some supplies for +the coming year, when cholera appeared in the land, interfering with all +lines of travel and communication. It was decided to postpone the +opening until the next year and special plans for temporary work were +made for the various teachers. In October 1904 the Tripoli Boys' School +opened its doors, and there was every indication of hearty support. We +had planned to begin on a very small scale with only twenty boarders. We +had rented a house in which the boys were to sleep and study, the +kitchen and dining room being in the basement. Before the day of opening +we had thirty-two insistent applicants and wanted very much to receive +them all. Rooms were rented across the street for study and recitation +purposes, releasing for a dormitory the large room before assigned to +study. This, with extra crowding of the beds, made room, and the whole +number were admitted. The beds were very crude, being merely boards laid +across rude iron supports. Everything was as simple as possible. + +We were all inexperienced in school administration and had about as much +to learn as did the boys, but that first year was a year of real +delight. The school was small and the family feeling was encouraged in +every way. Every Sunday evening the boys came to our home for a social +sing, and we learned that the neighbors looked forward to the enjoyment +of the volume of boyish voices that rang out on the evening air. In the +middle of the year it was possible to transfer the school to much more +commodious quarters, where all school and household functions could be +under one roof. The most satisfactory feature, perhaps, was the +financial outcome. When the books were closed, at the end of the year, +there was no deficit to be provided for, and so our highest +anticipations seemed to be justified. This has continued to be the +normal record of the school, the current income providing for the +current expense, excepting the item of rent. The second year we were +able to start in with American desks, and iron beds in the dormitories, +and had an enrollment of sixty pupils. + +A detailed history of the school would make this chapter too long, but +its growth and success have meant a great deal to us in our missionary +life. In 1909, when we returned from our second furlough, we had a +sufficient building fund to justify definite plans for the permanent +home of the school. It was not easy to decide on the best location. +Every place suggested had advantages and disadvantages. We could not +visit any locality in the most casual way without very largely +increasing the value of land in the vicinity. We looked at land near +the sea, in the gardens, on each side of the city, but gradually all +minds turned to an olive orchard on the brow of the hill just north of +the city. It might not be possible to purchase it, but we all agreed +that it was the place we wanted, if it could be obtained. Inquiry +revealed the fact that this piece of property belonged to a family of +brothers and sisters who held it as joint heritage from their father. +One of the brothers got the whole into his possession, excepting the +share of one sister, whose claim was something less than one-twelfth. +Her husband was an avaricious fellow who thought he could hold us up for +whatever he might demand. We purchased the remainder of the property, +but could do nothing toward building until our partner's share should be +set off and a legal division made. We proposed every possible division +but nothing was acceptable. We tried the courts and found it almost as +hopeless as Dickens' picture of chancery. Finally an amicable +adjudication and division out of court was arranged by common friends. +We went to the hill with professional measurers and proceeded to lay off +our partner's portion. When he was convinced that we would prefer to +give him at the north end, he promptly announced that he would take the +south part, which was after all much to our advantage. Then the boundary +was laid out very exactly, giving him his full share. After the peg had +been carefully set, his son petulantly moved it a foot or more farther +on our side, evidently intending to irritate us into a refusal of the +division. We consented, however, the division wall was erected, the +legal papers drawn up and our property was secured. + +The next step was to obtain a building permit from the government. Every +official is suspicious of every other, and each is watching for a chance +to enter a complaint against the other. From one office we went to +another, with favorable reports from the city engineer, but nothing was +accomplished. There seemed to be no valid objection anywhere, and we +were assured that the permit would be sent back as soon as our petition +reached Constantinople. After long waiting, instead of the permit there +came back another series of inquiries on points already fully explained. +Preliminary work on cisterns, foundations and preparation of stone was +in full progress, but the winter passed and no permit was received. At +last a new governor came to Tripoli who for some reason took a personal +interest in bringing the matter to a conclusion. He sent vigorous +letters and telegrams to Constantinople and in due time the permit was +issued, and at the end of May 1912, work was begun on the building +proper. Every means was used to push work forward as fast as possible, +through the summer and fall, so as to have the roof on before the rains +came. The walls were completed, the roof timbers in place, but where +were the tiles? These had been ordered long in advance, and were known +to be on the way. Just at this unfortunate moment war between Turkey and +Greece was declared and it appeared that our tiles were coming in a +Greek steamer, which could not now approach a Turkish port. The fall +rains came down on our roofless building and it was not until January +that the tiles were received. When they arrived, there was great +rejoicing. The workmen all left their tools to help unload the wagons. +The schoolboys went up on the hill and, forming lines from the ground to +the roof of the building, passed up the tiles from hand to hand with +shouts and songs of joy. No damage had been done the building, since the +rains tended to set the stone walls and cement flooring more perfectly, +but the plastering and carpenter work for the interior were delayed, and +the precious rain water for the cisterns was lost. + +After the roof was finished, work progressed rapidly and the utility and +beauty of the building developed every day more and more clearly. When +Easter vacation came everything was ready, and in the absence of the +boys, the school furniture was moved up to the new building so that all +was in good order when vacation was over. The new term opened in the new +home. + +On May 21, 1913, the day was given over to the dedication of the new +building, and a happier day than that has not come in the history of the +school. In the forenoon, there were races and athletic sports, with a +football game on the playground behind the building. In the afternoon, +hosts of friends and neighbors inspected the building and grounds, and +at four o'clock the Assembly Hall was crowded with the pupils and their +friends. On the platform sat the governor and president of the +municipality, with the missionaries and teachers. The boys sang heartily +their songs of welcome and a special dedication hymn written for the +occasion from the text, "Except Jehovah build the house, they labor in +vain that build it." Their voices rang out especially as their +handkerchiefs waved in their own school song in honor of T. B. S. + +This building is rich in significance, for it is a memorial throughout. +The main fund was raised in honor of my father, and so the building is +to be known as the Henry A. Nelson Memorial. Smaller sums were given as +special memorials to relatives of the givers, and the bell in the tower +was given by parents of a young man, their only son, who was called to +the heavenly home just before his twenty-first birthday. Those parents +have the comfort of feeling that their son's voice is still calling in +the tones of that bell to the lads of Syria, and so still serving the +Master. + +Our rejoicing in the new building was great, but not complete. With all +our efforts it was not possible to finish the top story of the building, +and the friends of the school will have plenty of opportunity to help us +improve and increase our facilities in the service of the youth of north +Syria. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +MOVING + + +In 1910 the Syria mission decided upon an advance. The constitution had +been declared in Turkey and everyone hoped that a new era had really +begun for the people of the empire. Whatever might be the political +results, there were clear signs of industrial improvement. The German +railroad was being pushed toward Bagdad. Work was progressing rapidly on +the line from Tripoli to Homs. There could be but little doubt that the +importance of Homs as a commercial center would be greatly enhanced in +the near future. The strong evangelical community had been urgent for +years that a missionary family live in Homs. This was finally decided +upon and the choice of the mission fell on us. There are very few houses +for rent in Homs, and hence it seemed necessary to plan for a +missionary residence as soon as possible. An appropriation was made from +the Kennedy bequest for this purpose, and a piece of land was acquired +from the management of the Syrian Evangelical Boarding School. + +[Illustration: HOMS] + +[Illustration: HEATHEN TEMPLE AND MOUNT HERMON] + +Moving in Syria is a different proposition from what it is in America. +There are no professional packers. The missionary must do his own +packing, if he would avoid excessive breakage. He must keep an eye on +the porters as they put his goods in the wagons. He must oversee the +freight men as they stow away the goods in the cars. At the Homs end of +the line every piece had to be carried to its destination on the back of +a donkey or a mule. It was no easy matter to balance some of the large +boxes on the insecure saddles, but it was all accomplished with time and +patience, with very little injury. + +We secured a little house in the city for six months, which could be +occupied while the new house was in process of erection. It was a +curious little place but the owner was very proud of it. There was a +minaret directly across the narrow street, so we had the call to prayer +almost over our heads five times a day. The section of the city was +known as the Grass Market, because it was occupied largely by +greengrocers. We were awakened early every morning by the merchants +calling their wares and all day long could hear cries like this: "Oh, +plums, O generous one, a penny a pound: health and strength come from +God, Oh, plums, Oh, plums." The woodwork and windows of this little +house were so poorly constructed that it was impossible to keep anything +clean. The strong wind, which gathered up straw and dirt, seemed to +discharge its load all day long in the various rooms of that little +house. + +In October the new mission house was ready for occupancy and we gladly +made the transfer to this permanent home. The city of Homs is perfectly +flat and quite compact. The streets are narrow and crooked, the houses +low, usually but one story high. The better houses are built of black +volcanic stone and the poorer houses of sun-dried brick. As a rule the +street wall is a dead blank surface, with merely a doorway admitting to +the inclosed courtyard. All this gives the city a dull, depressing +appearance. The old city was surrounded by a wall and a deep moat, and +at the south side, on a high hill, was the ancient castle faced with +black stone. This castle has been a complete ruin for over seventy years +and the city has outgrown its walls and spread across the moat. + +The Evangelical School and the American mission house lie to the south +of the castle hill, on a rise of ground among the vineyards. Many houses +are being built near us, but we are still the vanguard to the south. +Directly opposite to us on the north side of the city is the great +mosque of Sayid Khalid, said to have cost sixteen thousand pounds. It +is a beautiful building, but recently completed. Between us and it lies +the old city, with its seventy thousand plain people. At present a vast +majority of the population look to the north rather than to the south, +but it is our strong hope that the more vital strength represented by +Christian education and Christian homes will win the victory over this +great city and the surrounding country, so that all shall be won for +Christ. + +[Illustration: HAMIDIYEH MOSQUE _Tripoli_] + +[Illustration: OLD CITY GATE _Tripoli_] + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +THE MUEZZIN OR THE BELL + + +As the close of this little record comes near, there appears before me a +contrast or a conflict. Shall Syria continue, as in the past, dominated +by the minaret and all it signifies, or shall the church bell be heard +more clearly and more truly than it has been in the past? + +Many years ago, in the city of Homs, the large and influential Orthodox +Greek community wished to put up a bell in their church. This was found +to be wholly impossible because of the unyielding bigotry and hostility +of the Moslem community and the government. Finally the bishop consented +to hang up a slab of hard, thoroughly seasoned wood, and this was struck +with a mallet at the time of worship, to call the people together. After +quite a long interval, when the controversy was largely forgotten, this +wooden slab was quietly exchanged for one of steel, and a clearer sound +was obtained. This created a little disturbance, but was quickly +accepted as an accomplished fact, for it is a common saying in Turkey: +"Whatever is done is permitted. Whatever is requested is forbidden." +After another long interval a large bell was sent from Russia for this +Homs Church of the Forty Martyrs. In view of the relations of Turkey to +Russia, no open opposition could be shown, and the bell was brought with +great demonstrations of joy and put in its place where it rings to call +the people to worship. Following the lead of this strongest of the +Christian communities, all the others have brought bells since, and they +are in regular use. But the near city of Hamath waited some years longer +before hearing its first regular church bell. + +Many years ago an old sheik in Tripoli was calling on me. He was +intelligent and friendly and I felt that I could speak with him +somewhat freely. When I said to him that the voice of the muezzin in the +neighboring mosque was not so clear as it might be, he told me the +following incident in his father's life: The French consul in Tripoli +lived near a mosque. The muezzin had a musical voice, and the consul +enjoyed hearing the call to prayer in the summer evenings. For some +reason this man was removed and another put in his place, whose voice +was harsh and unpleasant. A few days later the consul arrayed himself in +official style, and with the attendance of his cavasses in full regalia, +he went to call on the old sheik, the father of my informant. It was not +a feast day nor time for official calls, so his coming in this manner +created some astonishment and a little uneasiness. After the ordinary +salutations had been exchanged, the consul addressed the sheik in formal +manner, to this effect: "I have come to-day, officially to convey to +you my own personal thanks and that of the government I represent for +the great favor you have done me." The sheik was even more astonished at +this opening, and protested that nothing worthy of such recognition had +been done. "Yes," said the consul, "you may not have been aware of the +great kindness done, but it is no less worthy of note. In the mosque +near my house there was a muezzin who gave the daily call to prayer in a +voice that went to the heart of the hearer, and it would not have been +strange if he had won my allegiance to Islam. Now, however, he has been +removed and a man with a harsh, repellant voice put in his place, so +there is no longer any danger that the representative of a Christian +nation should deny his faith and follow Islam. For this reason, I convey +to you officially and personally my most profound thanks." No sooner had +the caller taken his leave than orders were sent to have the +sweet-voiced muezzin restored to his former position in the vicinity of +the consulate. The keen consul had gained what he wanted and what a +direct request might not have accomplished. No offense was given and all +were pleased. + +After he had told me this story, I said, "Sheik Ali, there are two +things which I grudge to you Mohammedans; one is the custom of summoning +people to divine worship by the call of the human voice rather than by a +metallic bell; and the other is the exclusive use among yourselves of +the salutation, 'Peace be to you.'" When one Moslem meets another, he +salutes him, "Peace be to you," and the other responds, "And on you be +the peace of God." A Moslem will never intentionally give this +salutation to a Christian. I continued, "That salutation belongs to the +Christians more than to you, for it was the farewell message from our +Master to his disciples, when he said, 'Peace I leave with you; my peace +I give unto you.'" + +Which is it to be in Syria? Shall the separation continue, and one large +part of the population heed the call to prayer by the human voice from +the minaret, while another part worship the same God in the churches in +answer to the summons of a bell? This unfortunate state of affairs will +never cease until the heart of the Christian Church is so full of the +love of Christ and his perfect peace that the Moslem population shall +hear through them a louder cry than the voice of the muezzin, calling +them to worship the one living God, and to know him through the perfect +life of his only Son, our Lord. "Come unto me, all ye that labor and are +heavy laden, and I will give you rest." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Silver Chimes in Syria, by W. S. 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Nelson. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + + p.bold {text-align: center; font-weight: bold;} + p.bold2 {text-align: center; font-weight: bold; font-size: 150%;} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + h1 span, h2 span { display: block; text-align: center; } + #id1 { font-size: smaller } + + + hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: 33.5%; + margin-right: 33.5%; + clear: both; + } + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 5px; border-collapse: collapse; border: none; text-align: right;} + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + text-indent: 0px; + } /* page numbers */ + + .center {text-align: center;} + .smaller {font-size: smaller;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .box {max-width: 33em; margin: 1.5em auto;} + .box2 {max-width: 25em; margin: 1.5em auto; border: 1px black solid; padding: 10px;} + .space-above {margin-top: 3em;} + .right {text-align: right;} + .left {text-align: left;} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Silver Chimes in Syria, by W. S. Nelson + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Silver Chimes in Syria + Glimpses of a Missionary's Experiences + +Author: W. S. Nelson + +Release Date: November 7, 2013 [EBook #44122] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA *** + + + + +Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="center"><a name="cover.jpg" id="cover.jpg"></a><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="cover" /></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p> + +<p class="bold2">SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg ii]</a></span></p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i004.jpg" id="i004.jpg"></a><img src="images/i004.jpg" alt="HENRY A. NELSON MEMORIAL Tripoli Boys' School" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">HENRY A. NELSON MEMORIAL</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Tripoli Boys' School</i></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p> + +<div class="box2"> +<h1>SILVER CHIMES IN<br />SYRIA</h1> + +<p class="bold">GLIMPSES OF A MISSIONARY'S<br />EXPERIENCES</p> + +<p class="bold space-above">BY</p> + +<p class="bold">W. S. NELSON, D.D.,</p> + +<p class="bold">AUTHOR OF "HABEEB THE BELOVED"</p> + + +<div class="center space-above"><img src="images/i005.jpg" alt="Logo" /></div> + +<p class="bold space-above">PHILADELPHIA<br />THE WESTMINSTER PRESS<br />1914</p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span></p> + +<p class="center">COPYRIGHT, 1914</p> + +<p class="center">BY F. M. BRASELMANN</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p> + +<h2>DEDICATION</h2> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">July 17, 1888. Cincinnati, Ohio.</span></p> + +<p><i>This book is affectionately inscribed to her who has been the +companion of my life for twenty-five years; my helper in all my +work; my cheer and comfort in all circumstances; the maker of my +home; the source of all that is silvery in the chimes that ring to-day.</i></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Homs, Syria, July 17, 1913.</span></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p> + +<h2>PREFACE</h2> + +<p>When a tourist is seated on the deck of a steamer, waiting to leave the +country in which he has enjoyed an outing, his eyes do not seek the +low-lying shore of the sea, for the memories he would retain hereafter. +He lifts his eyes to the overhanging mountains. Nor is it the whole +massive range that holds his vision. He looks instinctively to the +scattered, lofty summits which stand aloof as it were from the monotony +of the lower range. Especially as the sun sinks below the western +horizon do his eyes dwell lovingly on those highest peaks which are +colored with the light of the setting sun.</p> + +<p>My purpose in sending out this collection of sketches is somewhat the +same. I have not attempted a continuous narrative, with all the monotony +of repeated acts, but have sought to make vivid to the reader some of +the more conspicuous features of missionary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span> life, in the hope of +deepening sympathy with the workers and increasing zeal in the work. +That is my excuse for the free use of the personal pronoun, not to make +prominent the person, but to emphasize the reality. May the volume be +enjoyed by our fellow workers in America, and blessed by Him whom we all serve.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span></p> + +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + +<table summary="CONTENTS"> + <tr> + <td colspan="2" class="left"><span class="smcap">Chapter</span></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Page</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>I.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Arrival in Syria</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>II.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Language Study</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>III.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Travel and Communication</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_19">19</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>IV.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Evangelistic Trips</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>V.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Aleppo</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>VI.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">New Stations and Buildings</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>VII.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Camping Life</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>VIII.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Persecution</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>IX.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Emigration</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>X.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Syrian Enterprises</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XI.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Interruptions</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XII.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Our Supporters</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_127">127</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XIII.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Personal Friends</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_136">136</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XIV.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Tripoli Boys' School</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_150">150</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XV.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">Moving</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_164">164</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td>XVI.</td> + <td class="left"> <span class="smcap">The Muezzin or the Bell</span></td> + <td><a href="#Page_169">169</a></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span></p> + +<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<table summary="ILLUSTRATIONS"> + <tr> + <td></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Page</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Henry A. Nelson Memorial—<i>Tripoli Boys' School</i></td> + <td><a href="#i004.jpg"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Latakia Boys' School</td> + <td><i>Facing Page</i> <a href="#i049a.jpg">34</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Tartoose—<i>Crusaders' Church</i></td> + <td><a href="#i049b.jpg">34</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Aleppo Minaret</td> + <td><a href="#i070.jpg">53</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Hadeth Summer Home</td> + <td><a href="#i094a.jpg">75</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Abu Maroon, the Hadeth Carpenter</td> + <td><a href="#i094b.jpg">75</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Homs—<i>Boys' School</i></td> + <td><a href="#i125.jpg">104</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Tripoli Boys' School—<i>First Home</i></td> + <td><a href="#i173a.jpg">150</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Tripoli Boys' School—<i>Second Home</i></td> + <td><a href="#i173b.jpg">150</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Homs</td> + <td><a href="#i189a.jpg">164</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Heathen Temple and Mount Hermon</td> + <td><a href="#i189b.jpg">164</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Hamidiyeh Mosque—<i>Tripoli</i></td> + <td><a href="#i196a.jpg">169</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="left">Old City Gate—<i>Tripoli</i></td> + <td><a href="#i196b.jpg">169</a></td> + </tr> +</table> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<p class="bold2">SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> + +<p class="bold2">SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA</p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter I</span></span> <span class="smaller">ARRIVAL IN SYRIA</span></h2> + +<p>Every individual makes a new personal discovery, as with the passage of +years, he realizes the difference between the long look forward over a +given period, and the look backward over the same period, when it is +completed. To the new arrival on the field the veteran of twenty-five +years' experience appears to have spent a very long time in the service; +but as he looks back over his own life, at the end of a similar period, +he wonders that he ever entertained such an opinion. Looking back to the +year 1888, the events of that time do not seem at all remote, and it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> is +hard to realize that to anyone that year can appear a very long way in +the past.</p> + +<p>On the last day of October, in the early morning, a steamer of the +Austrian-Lloyd Line cast anchor in front of Beirut. That was long before +the building of the harbor, and all vessels tossed in the open +roadstead, at the mercy of wind and wave, only slightly sheltered by the +long headland of Ras Beirut, where the tall lighthouse rears its slender +shaft, and where the Syrian Protestant College stands, as a more +important symbol of light-giving.</p> + +<p>The anchor was scarcely dropped before the little boats from the shore +crowded about the ladders and the boatmen came swarming over the sides +of the vessel, to take possession of the passengers and carry them +ashore. It is always a perplexing but interesting scene to the newcomer. +The curious costumes of many colors give an appearance of gayety to the +crowd; the shouting of the guttural Arabic makes one think of Babel; the +wild gesticulating of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> the excited people suggests the possibility of a +riot; the seizing of baggage and pulling of passengers by eager boatmen +make one think that the day of personal liberty and private property is +passed. As a rule, however, it is all good-natured, and the noise is +more bantering than quarreling. In fact, one soon becomes accustomed to +the turmoil as an indication of lack of orderly proceeding in the +Orient.</p> + +<p>Among the first figures to appear on deck that October morning was one +quieter but no less eager than the Arab boatmen. He quickly made his way +to the room of the new missionaries, just arriving from America, +prepared to take them ashore, and even to escort them at once to his own +home in Sidon. It was a most welcome, homelike experience to the tired +travelers, and the cheery voice and cordial welcome of Mr. W. K. Eddy +will never be forgotten.</p> + +<p>There were many things in the journey, thus ended, that had made it +trying. The young couple had crossed the Atlantic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> entirely among +strangers and the ocean had not been kind to them. Seasickness is never +a happy experience, and when it becomes a continuous performance, in +connection with a wedding journey, it seems most inappropriate. Pleasant +visits with family friends and relatives in Scotland effaced the +memories of the Atlantic. Visiting new scenes and beautiful places in +Switzerland gave much pleasure by the way, but in an unfortunate day the +germs of malaria had been absorbed and southern Italy was reached with +fever and weakness that made sightseeing a burden.</p> + +<p>Who can forget his first glimpse of the real Orient, at Port Said? The +noise and the dirt; the squalor and the glaring sun; the rush of the +crowd and the utter lonesomeness of the stranger, make a contrast and +mixture that are not easily matched in life's ordinary experiences. Four +days were to pass before a steamer went to Beirut. It was not a pleasant +prospect for travelers homesick and weak from fever to have to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> tarry +for four days in a dismal hotel, with nothing attractive in the way of +companionship or occupation. Besides this, our trunks had not been sent +forward as promised, and we were obliged to depend upon the limited hand +baggage with which we had crossed the Continent. It is easy to imagine +the sensations with which the young bride looked forward to making her +first appearance among strangers, with a face pale from fever and an +outfit so unexpectedly limited.</p> + +<p>The hearty welcome of Mr. Eddy on the deck of that Austrian steamer in +Beirut harbor was a needed tonic, and his skill and experience readily +passed us through the intricacies of the customhouse and brought us to +the hospitable home of his father. Of the friends who conspired to make +those first days bright, many have been called away to the other shore, +though others are still our associates in the service of Syria. Dr. and +Mrs. W. W. Eddy, with whom we spent our first ten days in Syria, left +us<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> many years ago. Dr. Samuel Jessup was always thoughtful, bringing +bright flowers from his garden to continue the impression of his bright +face and cheery words, when he called upon the strangers. He and Mrs. +Jessup, whose home was one of the brightest spots of those early years, +have also gone on before to their well-earned reward. Mr. March, coming +down from the mountains on his way to Tripoli, was especially ready in +his plans for the comfort of his new associates in Tripoli Station. But +it is not necessary to mention each one. The beauty of missionary life +is the unity of fellowship and the completeness with which every +newcomer is received into the intimacy and love of the circle, which is +only less close and intimate than that of the family itself.</p> + +<p>After ten days spent in Beirut in trying to get rid of the malaria and +in acquiring some knowledge of the Arabic alphabet, we went on to +Tripoli, our future home. It was a cold, windy Saturday afternoon. We +were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> taken out to the steamer in a small boat, which tossed on the +restless waves in a way which we supposed to be normal. The steamer was +small and crowded with a miscellaneous company, most of whom were not +happy, to say the least. Fortunately it is only a four hours' ride, for +the wind increased in violence as we proceeded, and when the anchor was +dropped at sundown off Tripoli, it seemed doubtful whether any boats +could come out to meet us. In due time, however, a boat pulled +alongside, and there was Mr. March, who had come out over that rough sea +to welcome us to our new home, though he did not think we would venture +to start from Beirut in such a storm. The steamer was rolling so badly +that the ladder could not be lowered at all, and we crept out on it as +it lay horizontally along the ship's side, and then, when the tip was +lowest, simply dropped into the arms of the boatmen below. Then began +the laborious pull for the shore. We were two hours reaching land, our +clothes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> soaked, our spirits at zero, but most happy to reach the warm, +cozy haven of the March home in the Mina of Tripoli. It was the +beginning of a most beautiful fellowship with Mr. and Mrs. March and +their children, whose sweet introduction of themselves won our hearts at +once and who, though now grown to maturity, still call us by the old, +affectionate titles of uncle and aunt. Thus, for the second time in our +short missionary experience, we were made to feel the comfort and peace +of being taken into the warmth and love of a Christian home, no longer +as strangers, but as brethren.</p> + +<p>We wished to take possession of our own home as soon as possible. Our +household goods were in the customhouse, and another first experience +was before us. Everything had to be examined and its purpose explained +to the satisfaction of the Turkish inspector. To him it seemed a wholly +unnecessary amount of furniture for one person, for of course he could +not recognize<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> that the wife's existence made any difference. A box of +class photographs was examined in detail, and great surprise manifested +that one person should have so many friends. A small vase for flowers in +the shape of a kettle resting on five legs puzzled the examiner, until +he picked up the perforated piece of a soap dish, and decided that he +had found the appropriate adaptation of the two pieces. It did not seem +necessary to explain, so long as he was satisfied, and no harm was done.</p> + +<p>We had many things to learn besides the language. Our home belonged to a +man whose name was translated to us as Mr. Victory-of-God Brass. In an +arch under the parlor windows he had hung a donkey's skull and some +beads, to keep off the evil eye of jealousy from his fine house. It was +a pleasant house, well located near the city gate which had been known +in former days as Donkey Gate, only a few minutes' walk from the girls' +school and just at the end of the tram line connecting the city with +the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> harbor, two miles distant. In planning for our new home we had +indulged in the luxury of two pairs of simple lace curtains for our +parlor windows. When we entered the house, our amazement can hardly be +exaggerated at the discovery that the parlor had not two but eight +windows, each calling for curtains twelve feet long. Our lace curtains +were relegated to service elsewhere. Mr. Eddy had kindly arranged to +come up from Sidon to help us in this first settling of our new home, +and his help and companionship were invaluable. He went with me to the +shops to purchase such things as were needed, and the shopkeepers +recognized at once his fluent Arabic and his companion's ignorance of +the language. More than one shopkeeper called him aside and asked him to +bring the stranger to them for his purchases, promising him a handsome +commission for his services.</p> + +<p>The house was soon made habitable and just three weeks after our first +landing in Syria we slept under our own roof, with our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> own possessions +about us, and were ready to begin our own independent home life in the +land of our adoption. We had made our beginning, and a bright, happy +beginning it was, notwithstanding the difficulties and drawbacks +inevitable in such conditions.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter II</span></span> <span class="smaller">LANGUAGE STUDY</span></h2> + +<p>Whatever differences there may be in experiences in missionary life, all +missionaries are faced with a most troublesome experience in learning a +new language. It is more or less natural for everyone to magnify what +concerns himself. "Our children" are always a little better than our +neighbors'. "Our cook" makes better bread than anyone else. And +"mother's pies"—well, that calls for no argument. It is much the same +way among missionaries. It is probable that there are just about as many +"hardest languages" in the world as there are distinct mission fields. +But, then, there must be one that is really the hardest, and we in Syria +think we come pretty well up on the list, even though we do not claim +absolute<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> preëminence. The Arabic, though rich and beautiful, is +certainly a difficult language, and I am sure the Syria Mission would +give a unanimous vote on the resolution that it is the toughest +linguistic proposition we have ever attacked. It was one of the terse +and suggestive remarks of Dr. Henry Jessup that at the end of the first +year the new missionary thought he knew the Arabic; at the end of the +second year he thought he knew nothing; and at the end of the third year +he wondered how he got hold of it.</p> + +<p>The isolation of a new missionary is at times appalling. No matter how +kind and helpful the older missionaries may be, they are strangers, +after all, with whom one must get acquainted. The houses are strange, +and not adapted to make one feel at home readily. Servants with their +very imperfect knowledge of English must be directed mainly by signs. +Everything seems unbearably dirty; the sun is unaccountably hot, even in +winter; the food is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> strange and does not appeal to a Westerner's +appetite. But, worst of all, among the babel of noises, there is not a +familiar sound, and with the best intentions of friendliness, one cannot +reveal the intention, except by the perpetual, inane grin.</p> + +<p>We began the study of the language, as everyone does, almost at the +wharf. Even before recovering from the effects of the voyage, the Arabic +primer, with its alphabet, was brought to the bedside. At one of the +earliest lessons in Tripoli, the old, gray-bearded teacher wished to +impress a new word, "Milh." He repeated the difficult combination, and +then inquired in some way whether we knew what the word meant. The look +of blank ignorance on our faces gave him the answer, and he rose and +stepped with dignity, in his flowing robes, to the door. Opening this, +he called in a loud voice across the open court to the cook, "Peter, +bring me some salt." Then with a little of this household necessity in +his palm, he came back to his stupid pupils,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> and, pointing at the salt, +said emphatically, "Milh." That word was permanently fixed in our +vocabulary.</p> + +<p>In less than two months after our arrival in Syria, and forty days after +taking possession of our own home, came New Year's Day. With the +self-confidence of youth and ignorance, we decided to keep open house on +our own account. In the forenoon we had our language teacher with us to +steer us through the intricacies of oriental etiquette, and to tell us +what to say, in the varying circumstances, and all went well. After +dinner, however, we excused him, as we did not expect many more calls, +and waited our fate. After a time, when the parlor was well filled with +a mixed company of men and women, among whom was the old teacher who had +taught us the word for salt, I used the wrong pronominal termination, +probably the masculine where I should have used the feminine. The old +gentleman rose from his place with great impressiveness and started +round the entire<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> circle, pointing his finger at each person, and +pronouncing distinctly to every man, "tak" and to every woman, "tik." It +created a laugh, of course, but it is needless to say that whatever +mistakes I have made in Arabic since, it has never been because I did +not know the difference between the masculine and feminine form of the +second person pronominal affix.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter III</span></span> <span class="smaller">TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION</span></h2> + +<p>In preparing for the active service of a missionary, it was necessary to +have a horse and a touring outfit. Our servant was told that we wanted +to buy a horse, and if he heard of any good chance, to let us know. In a +few days a man came to the house with a large gray mare for me to try. I +rode on her a little and examined her so far as I was capable of doing, +and was greatly pleased with her. I knew enough, however, of oriental +methods, to show no particular zeal over the matter, and left the owner +without any indication of my pleasure. In my own mind, I decided that I +should like to own that mare, and that I would be willing to pay as much +as twenty pounds for her, though I hoped to secure a horse for half that +amount. As<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> I came in I told the servant to make inquiry about the price +of the mare. He returned soon, saying the owner would sacrifice his own +interests so far as to let me have her for seventy-five pounds. I did +not buy that mare, but waited several months until I found a sturdy gray +horse, which I bought for less than ten pounds. He served me well for +five years, when I sold him for little less than the original cost.</p> + +<p>Tripoli field was rejoicing and congratulating itself in those days over +the macadamized road recently opened between Tripoli at the coast and +Homs and Hamath in the interior. It was sixty-five miles to Homs and +thirty-five more to Hamath. A cumbersome diligence made the trip to Homs +in eleven hours, going one day and returning the next, and a lighter +vehicle made the round trip between Homs and Hamath every day. This was +a great advance in rapid transit and a great convenience in all lines of +work.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p><p>In all Syria there was not a mile of railroad, and in northern Syria +there was no carriage road besides the one line just mentioned. All +traveling had to be done on horseback or afoot. Horses, donkeys, mules +and camels were the universal means of travel and transportation. Every +day caravans of camels came into Tripoli by the hundred, bringing grain, +olive oil and Syrian butter from the interior. They returned loaded with +sugar, rice, kerosene oil, and English yarn and cloth. The first +railroad was built in the early nineties from Jaffa to Jerusalem. Later +came the line from Beirut to Damascus; then the line from Haifa through +Galilee to Damascus, the line from Damascus to the south, and the line +from Damascus to Medina. Then came the branch line, from the +Beirut-Damascus line, to Homs, Hamath and Aleppo, and finally the +Tripoli Homs line and the German Bagdad line, passing through Aleppo +from east to west. With many other lines and extensions under +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>consideration, it is evident that railroad communication is fairly +started in Syria and that this part of the East has begun to feel the +influence of steam.</p> + +<p>During our first year in Tripoli, before I was at all familiar with the +various places, I overheard a conversation between two of our associates +about a recent trip to Beirut by land. The remark was made, "I suppose +you took a carriage from Junieh to Beirut." This is about one fourth of +the distance and was considered a great gain in the facilities of +transportation. The answer came, with even greater evidence of +satisfaction, "No, I rode in a carriage from Jebail." This meant a +doubling of the advantage, as Jebail is halfway between Tripoli and +Beirut. That was in 1889 and it was not until 1912 that this carriage +road was completed, so that one could make the whole distance on wheels.</p> + +<p>The tramway connecting Tripoli City and the Mina, or harbor, was the +only tramway in Syria and was an object of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> great pride. It had a single +track about two miles long, with a switch in the middle for the passing +of cars from the opposite ends. A car started from each terminus about +once in twenty minutes and made the trip in about the same length of +time, the fare being four cents and the motor power horses or mules. The +cars were originally imported from Birmingham, of the double-decker +type. They are still in daily service, receiving a fresh coat of paint +and necessary repairs every year. This line continues to run, though +with somewhat more frequent service and with a reduced fare of two +cents, since public carriages now run on a road alongside the tram. +Carriage roads now extend in several directions from Tripoli, and there +are many public carriages to hire; even an automobile is occasionally +seen and several bicycles have made their appearance.</p> + +<p>The postal system is a curiosity to those who are accustomed to free +delivery several times a day. It would be supposed that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> the Turkish +post would carry all letters for people in Turkey, since Turkey is a +member of the International Postal Union. At all the seaports, however, +one finds foreign post offices, which do a large business in receiving +and forwarding mail by all the steamers. To points in the interior they +cannot deliver mail. In Tripoli we had the French, and later the +Austrian service. In 1890 cholera appeared in Tripoli and all steamers +stopped calling at the port, to avoid quarantine. We were confined to +the use of the Turkish mail. Two messengers brought the mail by land +from Beirut each week. It was Tripoli which was infected with cholera, +and yet the incoming mail was stopped outside the city and drenched with +carbolic acid, while the outgoing mail was not touched. The mail +distributor in Tripoli could not read any language, not even Arabic, and +so he used to bring the bag directly to our house and empty it on the +floor, in order to get my help in assorting the letters for him. We were +glad to have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> the first pick of the mail, as it assured our receiving +all our own mail, and that promptly.</p> + +<p>At the last conference of the International Postal Union there was a +general reduction of postage and an increase in the unit of weight. +Turkey has given her adherence to this international arrangement, but +maintains her old internal rates so that we have the present absurd +condition, that a piaster stamp will carry twenty grams to any place +abroad, while it will carry only fifteen grams from one town to its next +neighbor. Additional weight abroad requires three quarters of a piaster +for each additional twenty grams, while for internal use every +additional fifteen grams requires a full piaster. Thus a letter weighing +sixty grams will go from an interior town like Homs to San Francisco for +two piasters and a half, while the same letter, if sent from Homs to +Tripoli, would cost four piasters.</p> + +<p>It might be supposed that there would be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> good caravan roads, at least, +in a country where all produce must be carried on quadrupeds, and all +travelers must ride or walk. The reverse was true, and though the past +twenty-five years have witnessed great improvement in this respect, +there is still much to be desired in most localities. Many of the roads +cannot be described as anything but trails through the rocky ground. The +chief consideration in locating a road seems to be to have it run +through ground which is fit for nothing else, for it would be a pity to +waste arable ground, and so a road must go around, no matter what the +distance. Whatever stones are gathered from the fields are thrown into +the highway, making it rougher than ever. In some parts of the +mountains, the road will lie along the top of a solid stone dike, ten to +fifteen feet wide, from which the traveler looks down to a depth of +eight or ten feet upon the fields and mulberry patches on each side. It +has been said that a road, in Syria, is that part of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> country to be +avoided in traveling, so far as possible. This inference is easy to +understand when you notice that all the trodden paths are in the fields +at either side, and that people travel in the rough roads, only when +there is no escape. While the grain is growing the farmers will do their +best, by building up stone walls, to keep the animals out of their +fields, but just as soon as the harvest is gathered these obstructions +go down and the current of traffic resumes the easier course until the +winter rains make the mud a worse enemy than the rough stones.</p> + +<p>In other places it is often an interesting study to try to decide +whether the water flows in the road, or whether people travel in the +watercourses. It is something like the insolvable question as to which +came first, the hen or the egg. The fact remains that, as a rule, in wet +weather and rough country, the traveler will find his horse splashing +through a stream of water flowing down the road. The explanation is +simple.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> There is nowhere any system of drainage, and every man's +purpose is to turn the streams of rain water away from his own land. +Useful land cannot be wasted for watercourses any more than for roads, +and hence the waste lands are devoted to the double purpose, with the +resulting confusion as to which is the intruder.</p> + +<p>The obscurity of the roads leads to many more or less unpleasant +experiences. There are roads so steep and difficult that it is no +unusual experience to see a muleteer take hold of his mule's tail as he +goes down the mountain path, and by a judicious holding back, help the +animal to steady himself under a heavy, awkward load. On the other hand, +when he is going up the mountain, the tired muleteer will take hold of +the same convenient handle to get a little help for himself in the +ascent.</p> + +<p>One summer night, Mrs. Nelson and I were belated on the higher slopes of +Mount Lebanon. The trail was little more than a path for goats, and was +quite unfamiliar<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> to us. In the dark night, we lost the way more than +once, and we were becoming quite exhausted in repeated efforts to regain +the path, when, at last, we seemed to have strayed completely, and I +could not locate the road at all. We had to take a little rest, and wait +for the moon to rise. We sat upon the mountain side, under the shade of +fragrant cedars, tired, hungry and thirsty. The surroundings were +charming and the dim outlines of forest and mountain beautiful. The +night air was refreshing, after an exceptionally hot day; but when one +has lost his way, he is not in a condition to appreciate fully the +beauties of nature or the charms of his surroundings. As we sat there, +gaining some rest, I began to study the outline of the hills, and +concluded that the road must lie in a certain curve of the mountains not +far away. On investigating I found my impression correct, and we resumed +our journey, reaching our destination just as the moon appeared over the +highest ridge of the mountains.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p><p>On another occasion it was the intelligence of my horse rather than my +own which saved me considerable inconvenience. I was belated upon the +mountain and overtaken by sunset, some eight miles from my destination. +Confident in my horse as well as in myself, I pushed on as rapidly as +possible over the rough path. To add to my difficulty, a thick mountain +fog settled about me until it was impossible to see the path ten feet +ahead. In descending a steep slope, leading my horse, I missed the trail +and found myself in the vineyards. I knew that the village was close at +hand and anticipated no difficulty in working down to the road. At any +rate, it seemed likely that we should arouse the night watchman in the +vineyard and it would be his duty to turn us out of the vineyard, +exactly what we wished for. We stumbled along, over grapevines and +stones, but came no nearer to the road, nor did we disturb the sleeping +watchman. After what seemed like endless wandering, though the distance +was not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> far nor the time long, I came up against a stone wall and could +see a path beyond. Getting over this wall was simple, but which way to +turn in the road was not clear. I tried the turn to the right, +tentatively, not fully convinced myself. My horse yielded reluctantly +and walked very slowly indeed over the rough stones. After a few minutes +my own doubts increased and I determined to test the horse. Dropping the +reins loosely on his neck, I gave him no sign of guidance at all. As +soon as he felt the relaxing of pressure on the bits, his head rose, his +ears stood erect and he seemed to cast an inquiring glance out of the +corner of his eye. When convinced that he was free to choose for +himself, he immediately swung around and started at a rapid walk in the +opposite direction. In a very few minutes I could see the village lights +struggling through the mists, and was soon at my own door.</p> + +<p>This same horse gave me another illustration of his intelligence. I was +riding<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> along the carriage road, on the seashore, intending to turn up +to one of the mountain villages. There were two roads to this village, +and when we came to the first my horse tried to turn up, but was easily +held back and started briskly along, as if fully understanding my +purpose. When we came to the second road we found that it had been +plowed under and that grain several inches high was growing where the +path had been. I knew that the road had been moved a short distance so +as to pass a khan recently erected. The horse had not yet gone over this +altered road and so was puzzled. I left him to his own guidance. When he +came to the point where the road had divided, he stopped and looked at +the grain, and then went slowly on, looking constantly at the field, +until, after about twenty or thirty feet, he decided to make a plunge, +and struck directly through the growing grain to where the old road had +been at the other edge of the field.</p> + +<p>The introduction of railroads and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>carriages throughout the country +facilitates travel and business a great deal, but it takes away much of +the interest and diversion of getting about from place to place.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter IV</span></span> <span class="smaller">EVANGELISTIC TRIPS</span></h2> + +<p>It was a practice with us for many years to arrange a special +evangelistic medical trip in the spring of the year. Sometimes Mrs. +Nelson and I would join Dr. Harris in a journey of two or three weeks, +and sometimes the doctor and I would go alone. One of the most memorable +of these journeys was in the spring of 1893, in the month of May. We had +our tent and camp outfit and the large chests of medical supplies +carried on mules and were accompanied by our cook, with his portable +kitchen packed away under him, and the Syrian assistant of the doctor, +so that we made quite a party altogether. We started along the shore +north from Tripoli, making our first camp about ten miles out of the +city. The next day's journey brought us<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> to Tartoose on the shore +opposite the island of Arvad. Ezek. 27:8. This island lies only a short +distance from the shore, but I have never yet been able to reach it +because of the violent west wind on each occasion of a visit to +Tartoose. The island is wholly covered by the town, which is occupied by +sturdy sailors and fishermen. There are many interesting relics of +ancient times in Tartoose, though it is possible that many of the coins +offered to the credulous public may have been produced recently in the +place itself.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i049a.jpg" id="i049a.jpg"></a><img src="images/i049a.jpg" alt="LATAKIA BOYS' SCHOOL" /></div> + +<p class="bold">LATAKIA BOYS' SCHOOL</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i049b.jpg" id="i049b.jpg"></a><img src="images/i049b.jpg" alt="TARTOOSE Crusaders' Church" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">TARTOOSE</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Crusaders' Church</i></p></div> + +<p>At the edge of the town stands a fine Gothic church, whose substantial +walls and graceful arches are a pleasure to the eye. The empty windows +make one feel lonesome as he approaches the building, and the bare +interior speaks of a decadent Christianity that adds to the sadness. +But, worst of all, is the minaret crudely built on the corner of the +roof, for this is another of the many Christian churches in Turkey which +have been transformed into mosques.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span></p><p>At another of our camping places we found, near at hand, an old Roman +amphitheater, where it was not difficult to imagine a concourse of +pleasure seekers seated on the stone benches watching some exhibition of +strength or skill in the arena below. Wherever one goes in Syria, he is +reminded of an ancient glory and power, in close and vivid contrast to a +present state of decay and weakness.</p> + +<p>Our first Sabbath, on this journey, found us at Latakia, where we spent +the day with our neighbors and fellow workers of the Reformed +Presbyterian mission. This mission was started especially to reach the +Nusairiyeh people of north Syria. Because of the persistent interference +of the Turkish Government, their work has been greatly hampered and +their efforts largely restricted to the training of boys and girls in +the boarding institutions in the city, and ministration to the sick in +the hospital. It was a great pleasure to have this break in our journey +and the pleasant intercourse with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> those engaged in the same kind of +service as our own, and to have the privilege of speaking to the young +people in their schools.</p> + +<p>On Monday we went a short distance from the city, pitching our tent near +a village of considerable size on the plain some miles back from the +sea. As I sat in the moonlight at the door of the tent, a man wearing +the white turban of a Moslem scholar approached me. He seated himself +near me after a pleasant greeting and we fell into agreeable +conversation. After some time, this man took the opportunity, when no +one was near enough to overhear him, to ask most earnestly that we +should send them a teacher for their children. I was surprised at the +request from such a source and turned the conversation so as to make +sure that he understood who we were and what kind of schools we +conducted. He showed that he understood the matter fully, and that he +really desired a Protestant Christian teacher for his town. I then asked +him directly, "Are you not a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>Moslem?" Looking about again, to make sure +no one should hear him, he said, "Yes, I am a Moslem now," with an +emphasis on the last word which revealed the facts in the case. He was +of a Nusairiyeh family but had yielded to the persistent pressure of the +government so far as to accept the form of adherence to Islam, though in +his heart he hated the system and its followers most cordially.</p> + +<p>A long day's ride brought us through the wild and tortuous valley of the +Nahr-ul-Kandil, up the slope of Mount Cassius to the town of Kessab, +some four thousand feet above the sea, where the Latakia missionaries +have their summer homes. It was a most beautiful though rugged ride, and +would have been thoroughly enjoyable in good weather. The wild flowers +were in full bloom, and every turn in the road brought into view a new +combination of varied and bright colors, where the little blossoms +clustered amid the green foliage, among the gray rocks. The great +drawback to our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> enjoyment lay in the fact that for a large part of the +distance we rode in a heavy and most unexpected rainfall. We were not +prepared for such an experience in the month of May, and so reached our +destination soaked and cold. We had been directed to take possession of +one of the cottages belonging to the missionaries in Latakia, and it was +certainly a most welcome haven. We were able to light a fire in the +kitchen stove and spread out our wet garments to dry, while we warmed +ourselves in the grateful heat.</p> + +<p>It was a disappointment the next day that the top of Cassius was +enveloped in heavy cloud, forbidding an ascent. This mountain is about +five thousand feet in height, rising directly from the sea, and so is a +conspicuous object from every direction and gives an extensive view from +its summit. We could tarry but one day, and descended to the old site of +Seleucia, at the mouth of the Orontes, and saw some remnants of the old +harbor from which Paul<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> set sail more than once. The Orontes is quite +wide and deep near its mouth and we crossed it on just such a wire ferry +as I had seen many years before on the Connecticut River in +Massachusetts. The gardens of Swadia were most refreshing with their +green verdure, cool shade and rich fruit, after a long day's ride in the +heat, and again we had the pleasure of missionary fellowship, for our +friends of the Reformed Presbyterian mission have a station here also. +Another easy stage brought us to old Antioch, so closely associated with +the beginning of Christian history. It is not an attractive city in +outward appearance and has suffered much at different times from +earthquake.</p> + +<p>From Antioch we followed the Orontes Valley up to Hamath, where we were +once more among our own organized stations. Such journeys give us an +acquaintance with the country and the people, which is of the most vital +importance in planning for the proper expansion of the work.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p><p>Once, on a pleasant summer evening, we were encamped near a Nusairiyeh +village. Among those gathered about us were an elderly peasant and his +son, a well-built, sturdy youth of seventeen or eighteen years. As he +sat before us this young man appeared to be in perfect health and vigor, +but when he rose to walk, his awkward gait revealed his misfortune, for +both feet were so badly deformed that he walked on his ankles and not on +the soles of his feet. The doctor was asked whether this defect could be +remedied. After a careful examination the lad was told that the +operation would be painful, and that some time would be required, but +that if he would come to the hospital, prepared to stay as long as +should be necessary, he would be able to come away, walking erect, like +other people. The faces brightened at once, and we shared in their +pleasure at the prospect of this deliverance. The next morning, however, +we were told that the family<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> had talked over the matter and decided not +to have the operation performed. We assured them there should be no +expense, but they said it was not the matter of expense. Then we told +them of similar cases which had been successfully treated, but they +assured us they had no doubt of the doctor's skill. We encouraged the +young man to bear the pain for the sake of increased enjoyment in life +afterwards, but he said he was not afraid of the pain. What then was the +trouble? At last we learned the truth. So long as the lad could show two +such clubbed feet, he would be excused from military service; but if +they were made straight he would be called to the army; and he would +rather go through life a cripple than to give several years of his vigor +to service in the Turkish army. And he is no exception.</p> + +<p>We were approaching a large town of bigoted people, wondering how we +should secure an opening for our message. I was riding slightly in front +of the doctor,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> occupied with plans for securing access to the people. +Suddenly I heard the doctor's voice behind me saying, "Boy, do you want +your eye straightened?" On looking back I saw a lad of about fifteen +years, with a decidedly crossed eye, beside the doctor's horse. He +promptly accepted the offer, and we hastened to dismount and tie our +horses. A table in the little roadside café was quickly cleared, while +the doctor got out his case of instruments from his saddlebags. The boy +was placed on the table and in an incredibly short time the cords were +severed so that the eyeball took its proper position, and we were +thoroughly advertised. By the time our camp equipage came up, we had +been provided with an excellent place to camp, and had nothing to +complain of in the reception of the people.</p> + +<p>A memorable experience was in the neighborhood of a large village whose +gardens are said to be watered by three hundred springs. Whatever the +correct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> number may be, there is no question about the abundance of +water and the luxuriance of the gardens. We had three tents, one for +medical clinics and one apiece for our two households, and settled down +for a fortnight's work. Every day we had crowds about the tent for +medical attention and for religious services. The evenings gave abundant +opportunity for work among those who gathered about us after their day's +work was done. They were glad to join in the hymns of praise, and +listened earnestly to the spoken message and read word. One evening, the +boys who gathered about the tent told me that the superintendent of +their school was in town and had begun an examination, to be finished +the next day. I decided to go to the school the next morning to make the +acquaintance of the superintendent and to see what the school was doing. +When I arose the following day, I found many of the boys about the tent, +and asked them why they were not at school for the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>examination. "Oh," +they said, "there is no examination to-day. Early this morning, the +superintendent, the teachers and the headman of the village took their +horses, a large bottle of spirits and a young kid, and went up to the +top of the mountain to a famous spring to spend the day in a drinking +spree."</p> + +<p>One of the pleasantest evenings I remember in my regular routine touring +was spent in this same village. We had brought our party to a garden, +owned by one of our friends who was always glad to have us make it our +headquarters. We had eaten our supper and were seated on the ground, +under a high, branching tree into which was trained a huge grapevine. +Behind us was a little hut, in which the caretaker slept in stormy +weather. At one side was a rude booth where the owner slept during the +summer. An oil lantern gave some light. One by one quite a group of +neighbors and friends assembled and, after some general conversation, +we<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> sang some hymns. Then I opened the Bible for a little reading, with +simple exposition. As I read and talked to them, the row of dark faces +was turned toward me with an intentness and eagerness to hear that made +me hope they might not see me or hear my words, but hear those words of +life spoken so many years ago in Palestine, and see that Face from which +alone shines the true light.</p> + +<p>We are not always left to do as we please on these trips, for the +paternal Turkish Government sometimes takes an unnecessary interest in +our plans and shows an excessive concern for our safety. We had crossed +a rugged section of the mountains and come down to a walled town, which +is a government center. Here we camped near the town and were promptly +favored with a call from officials, sent by the governor to find out who +we were. We paid a formal call on his Excellency and were allowed to +remain quietly as long as we desired. When we broke camp a polite<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +message came from the governor, asking where we were going and offering +a guard and escort. We returned a grateful acknowledgment of his +courtesy, but assured him that we were familiar with the roads and would +not trouble him to send an escort. It was only after some difficulty +that we succeeded in getting away alone. We learned afterwards that we +were followed, and that, in accordance with instructions from +headquarters, word was sent from place to place to keep watch of us. At +one large town we had large crowds about our camp and large audiences +for evening services for several days, when suddenly there was a change +and no one came near us. Apparently the sick were all healed and all +interest in singing and conversation had ceased. It developed that word +had been sent to the nearest government center, and orders had come back +at once, not to interfere with our comfort but to notify the people to +have nothing to do with us. At one of these places, which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> were all +occupied by Nusairiyeh and Ismaeliyeh people, Mrs. Nelson was talking +with some of the women about religion. They said, "Do Christian women +have any religion?" When assured that we believe religion to be for +everyone, whether male or female, rich or poor, wise or ignorant, they +replied: "It is not so with us. A woman with us can have no share in +religion. If one of us should accidentally overhear the men talking +about religious beliefs, so that she unintentionally learned some +religious doctrine, she ought to acknowledge it and be put to death. And +it is right to be so, for a woman must know nothing of religion."</p> + +<p>On another occasion, quite a party of us stopped to spend the night in +one of these towns. While I was busy with arrangements for the night +other members of the party went to look about the little castle at the +edge of the town. Our presence was reported to the acting governor. +Unfortunately he was a man of surly disposition and anxious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> to magnify +his office. He demanded our Turkish passports, which he had a technical +right to do. Unfortunately some of the party had failed to provide +themselves with these documents as they were seldom called for. It gave +our little governor a chance and he used it, insisting that he must send +us to Hamath, practically under guard, but nominally under military +protection. We were intending to go to Hamath, but not directly, and so +it was finally agreed that the horseman go with us to Mahardeh where we +were to lodge, and accompany us the following day to Hamath. When we +started out the next morning, it was ludicrous to see the haughty airs +of this soldier who was sent with us. He acted as if he really believed +these foreigners were committed to his absolute control and carried his +head very high. Before going many miles we had succeeded, by pleasant +conversation, in limbering him up considerably, and by noon, when we +stopped for luncheon, he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> displayed his power in our behalf by ordering +the villagers to serve us in every way possible. By evening, when we +entered Mahardeh, he was quite cringing in his servility, for now he +realized that he was alone and we were among friends, so it was worth +while to be genial and submissive. When I informed him that I was not +going with the party the next day, he claimed to be greatly terrified +and begged me most humbly not to subject him to such peril. "For," said +he, "the number of foreigners is mentioned in the governor's letter, and +if I do not produce the full number, I shall be held responsible." I +said, "Be that as it may, I must stay here over Sunday and on Monday +morning I will follow and report myself to his Excellency if necessary." +He went away, apparently in much uncertainty. I knew, however, that the +matter was a mere formality and would bring no risk either to him or to +me; and so it proved, for the governor took no interest in the matter at +all.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p><p>On a warm summer evening, Dr. Harris and I rode up to the sheik's house +in a village I have never visited before or since. As strangers we were +welcomed to the public room. It was soon discovered that a doctor was +present, and immediately all who were diseased came about us. It was a +marvel to see men lie down before this stranger with perfect confidence +and allow him to cut about their eyes or put drops in them. It does +happen, alas, too often, that this credulity costs them dear, for many +an eye has been ruined by conscienceless quacks who trade on the +simplicity of the people. It is a pleasure, however, to see them place +themselves in the hands of the skillful and honest missionary physician, +who will help them, if possible, or tell them truthfully if there is no +remedy. At sunset a large dish of wheat, boiled with some meat, was +brought out, and cakes of barley bread placed about it. All who were +present were bidden to partake, and we did the best we could to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> satisfy +our hunger. After a social evening we spread our beds and made ready for +sleep, if possible. As I lay on my bed, I could hear those who sat about +discussing us. They told of the doctor's famous skill and what he had +done there before them. I was glad to find that I held the humble +position of doctor's assistant in their estimation. But I could not help +wondering then and since about that village. So far as I know that is +the only missionary visit ever made there. Is it enough?</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i070.jpg" id="i070.jpg"></a><img src="images/i070.jpg" alt="ALEPPO MINARET" /></div> + +<p class="bold">ALEPPO MINARET</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter V</span></span> <span class="smaller">ALEPPO</span></h2> + +<p>In 1893 a plan was developed in the mission to extend our sphere of +labor so as to include the city of Aleppo, which had been occupied many +years before by the mission and then left because of the exigencies of +the work and lack of forces. It was a four days' journey from our +nearest outstation, and hence not easy to care for; but as Tripoli +Station was the nearest part of the mission, Aleppo was placed under our +direction.</p> + +<p>Aleppo is one of the largest cities in Syria, and a most important +commercial center. It is nearly the most northern point for the use of +the Arabic language, as Turkish becomes the general medium of +communication one day's journey farther north. Being so near the Turkish +district,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> there are many Turkish-speaking people in Aleppo, but the +city as a whole is essentially an Arabic-speaking place. The American +Board had a Turkish congregation connected with their mission and +maintained church and school work in Aleppo for the Turkish-speaking +strangers resident in the city. There was the most cordial welcome from +these missionaries to our proposal to organize work for the +Arabic-speaking population. Before making my first visit of supervision +to Aleppo it was arranged by correspondence that Mr. Sanders of Aintab, +the missionary in charge of that district, should meet me and spend +several days in conference as to the arrangement of details of our +interlocking work. It had been proposed most kindly that we should hold +our Arabic services in the premises of the Turkish congregation.</p> + +<p>In many ways that first journey to Aleppo was a unique experience. It +was a venture into a region of country wholly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> new to me, and involved +planning for a new department of service. There were two ways to reach +Aleppo, one wholly by land, involving a somewhat dangerous ride from +Hamath for four days; the other by sea to Alexandretta, and thence by +horseback over a carriage road to Aleppo. It was decided to take this +latter course, though all subsequent visits were made the other way. +After gaining all the information I could before leaving home, I took +the steamer to Alexandretta, where I landed on Monday morning. At once I +began my search for a riding animal, and at length secured a horse +guaranteed to be swift and of easy gait, whose owner promised to see me +in Aleppo by the evening of the third day. Delayed by those who wished +to accompany us, it was past noon before we set out on the road. It was +not long before I discovered that the ease had been left out in the +structure of my horse, and that any speed he may have had once was +well-nigh worn out. It was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> clear that I should have to work my passage, +but my courage held out.</p> + +<p>We pressed up the mountain slope and crossed the ridge in good time, +having many beautiful views back over the dark blue Mediterranean. Mount +Cassius lifted its rocky head five thousand feet, directly out of the +sea, to the south, showing where the Orontes empties into the sea at old +Seleucia. After passing the summit of the range we dropped down rapidly +to the Antioch plain, having the lake of Antioch in full view before us. +By sunset we had reached the place intended as our first halt, +thirty-seven kilometers from the shore. I found no place of +entertainment but a bare inn where I could set up my camp bed and sleep. +There was no food to be had for love or money and so I had to depend on +the scant supplies I had brought with me in my saddlebags.</p> + +<p>The second day's ride was much longer than the first, as we kept to the +saddle for twelve hours, notwithstanding the entreaty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> of my companions +to break the journey earlier. I reminded them of the pledge to reach +Aleppo on the third day, and so kept on until dusk. We had left the +carriage road for a more direct trail and stopped for the night in a +small, desolate village. There was no decent shelter to be found and so +I gladly set up my bed on the threshing floor, and slept under the +starry sky. I inquired for milk, eggs, bread, cheese, anything in the +way of food, offering ample pay for anything edible. After much +persuasion the people were induced to burrow in the straw pile on the +threshing floor from which they produced a watermelon. This was +refreshing at least, and helped to wash down my bread, which was getting +rather dry, as I did not like to use much water in this swampy region. +Long before dawn we were again on the road and pushed steadily ahead +over ridge after ridge, until, in the middle of the afternoon, the city +of Aleppo broke on our sight, a most refreshing vision. In one of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> +valleys near Aleppo the traveler cannot fail to notice many heaps of +small stones, evidently placed there to mark certain spots. The place is +called the valley of the slain, and each pile indicates where some +victim has fallen.</p> + +<p>The appearance of Aleppo as one approaches it from the west is not +unpleasing, for it is the first well-built town seen after leaving the +coast. The houses are built of white limestone and the gardens about the +city lend a touch of green, most refreshing after the barren country +left behind. At first sight the designation of Aleppo as +Halch-es-Shahba—Aleppo the Gray—seems most appropriate. It is a pity +to detract from the more poetic explanation of the title. Old tradition +says that Abraham had his encampment at the site of Aleppo for a long +time, and was recognized throughout the region for his wealth and +generosity. He had set apart for the use of the poor the milk from a +certain gray cow in his herd, and hence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> some one was always on the +watch at evening. As soon as the gray cow came forward, this watchman +would shout at the top of his voice, "Haleb es Shahba," which means, "He +has milked the gray cow." Hence the city, which later grew up at this +spot, was called Haleb-es-Shahba, or Aleppo.</p> + +<p>I shall never forget a conversation connected with that journey. My +comrades were all Moslems, and as we jogged on, hour after hour, during +those three days, there were opportunities for conversation on many +topics. One day I asked one of them who was a religious teacher, what +his doctrine had to say as to the fate of non-Moslem infants who died in +infancy. I was surprised to find how closely his view parallels our own +Christian view of infant salvation. He answered at once that they are +all saved through the intercession of Mohammed.</p> + +<p>On reaching the city I sought a hotel, in order to remove the soil of +travel before<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> hunting up our friends in this strange city. I was in the +midst of making myself presentable when a loud knock at my door was +followed immediately by its opening, and a rough Turkish police officer +made his appearance. Without a word or suggestion of apology, he began a +series of questions as to my name, residence and occupation. I let him +exhaust his list of questions and then asked, as quietly as possible, +whether he would like to look over my Turkish passport, which was +required of all in those days. He seemed to be so completely taken aback +at my evident lack of awe for himself, and surprised to meet a person +who was prepared in accordance with the law, that he could scarcely +stammer out in reply, "Why, have you a passport?" "Certainly," I +replied. "Here it is, with all the information you need." He sat down +most meekly and copied off the items he needed and took his departure in +a really polite manner.</p> + +<p>As this was my first visit to Aleppo,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> everything seemed strange to me, +except in so far as all oriental cities have a measure of resemblance. +As I was met also by Mr. Sanders, a missionary in charge of established +work, I found it natural to expect to be dependent on him for +everything. It came thus as a surprise to have him turn to me, in the +street, to act as interpreter. He spoke Turkish, but my Arabic was far +more necessary and serviceable in general intercourse.</p> + +<p>These experiences impressed it upon me most vividly that Aleppo is +thoroughly an Arabic-speaking city, and that the work should be in +organic connection with the evangelical work in other parts of Syria. +The Turkish congregation is a natural member of the Cilicia Union and +should affiliate with the churches of the north, but the Arabic +evangelical work belongs with the organizations under the care of our +mission in Syria. For four years this arrangement was continued and we +maintained Arabic services with a Syrian<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> preacher and a day school with +a Syrian teacher. Each year two missionary visits were made, the +missionaries in Tripoli alternating in this duty. It was difficult to +carry on the work at such long range. In 1897 a heavy cut in our +appropriations made it necessary to consider every possible method of +retrenchment. At the same time the English Presbyterians were opening a +station in Aleppo for work among the Jews, and it seemed best, all +things considered, to ask our English friends to relieve us of this +responsibility, and assume the care of the work for the Gentiles as well +as for the Jews through the medium of Arabic, in Aleppo. Thus our +official connection with the work in Aleppo ceased, but it has never +passed from our minds that some day an Arabic-speaking evangelical +church in Aleppo should become a member of our Syrian Presbyterian +organization. Now that the railroad has brought Aleppo within six hours' +ride from Hamath, the problem has assumed a new<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> form and we may hope +for a renewal of friendly affiliation.</p> + +<p>Such a city as Aleppo, with about two hundred and fifty thousand people +and increasing commercial importance, demands much of the missionary +organizations. The famous Constantinople Bagdad railway of the Germans +passes through Aleppo. A branch line connects with the Mediterranean at +Alexandretta. The French system from Beirut ends in Aleppo, giving +direct connection with Damascus, Beirut and Tripoli. The work of the +American Board, being at present in Turkish, reaches only a small part +of the population. The English mission places its emphasis on work for +the Jews and has ample scope in that part of the population. There +remains the vast bulk of the whole population, with Arabic as their +language, looking naturally to the American mission in Syria for help +and guidance. The large Moslem population and the numerous nominal +Christians deserve the attention of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> resident American missionary to +organize aggressive and effective work. Shall we wait longer before +pressing on in this direction?</p> + +<p>Aleppo has been chosen by the International Committee of the Y.M.C.A. as +a place where a building should be erected and a permanent secretary +established. Should we fall behind the Y.M.C.A.? Whenever the American +Presbyterian Church says the word and furnishes the men and the money, I +am sure the Syrian mission will be ready to send one of its members +forward to this new frontier. God forbid that another quarter century +should pass before this is fulfilled.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter VI</span></span> <span class="smaller">NEW STATIONS AND BUILDINGS</span></h2> + +<p>It has been my privilege to watch from the beginning the growth and +development of three prosperous churches in the territory of Tripoli +Presbytery. Each one has been marked by peculiarities that render it +especially interesting. In the early years of my acquaintance with the +church in Homs, I heard frequently of evangelistic visits on the part of +the young men of the church to various villages in the plain east of the +city—especially to one large village about two miles southeast of us. +The people of this village are of the Syrian or Jacobite church, and +have no little familiarity with the Bible and a really religious +disposition. Our young men from Homs used to go out in small bands of +two or more, with their gospels<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> and hymn books in their pockets. If +they met a friendly reception, they would go into some house, where +those who were interested would gather together and a simple service or +friendly discussion would be held. If no one asked them to come in, they +would seek a place in the public square where people were gathered +together, and sing a hymn or read a passage to open the way for +discussion. In such cases there was danger of an exhibition of hostility +on the part of those who were unfriendly to the evangelical doctrine. It +happened more than once that these faithful messengers were driven out +of town, pursued with stones as well as reviling. Such treatment, +however, could not suppress the truth, and a strong church has grown up +from the seed thus sown amid hostile persecution.</p> + +<p>There was a most interesting old priest in this town of Feiruzeh who +received the truth into his heart, but never had the courage to leave +the old church, though he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> was known to be at heart an evangelical +believer. He sought books on the evangelical doctrine and studied them +earnestly, and sometimes attended the Protestant service, being present +at least once on a sacramental occasion. He openly taught his people the +folly of auricular confession and priestly absolution, saying to them: +"If you wish to come to me and tell me of your sins, so that I may help +you and pray with you to God for forgiveness, I am at your service; but +I am a sinner like you and we all have access to one Saviour. I cannot +forgive your sins, but will gladly pray for you and with you."</p> + +<p>There had been some inquiry about the truth on the part of a few people +in the village of El Yazidiyeh. In my first visit to the place we +pitched a tent on the threshing floor outside the village. Much +curiosity in our coming was shown, and some opportunity given to +strengthen the purpose of those who were inclined to the truth. At +length a teacher was stationed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> there and a simple school opened. One or +two of the people had joined the church in a neighboring village, but +the sacrament had never been administered in the town itself. Several +were ready to make a public profession of their faith in Christ, and it +seemed that the time had come to begin the full life of the little +church, by administering the sacrament on the spot. Plans were arranged +for an evening service in the schoolroom, and a good company was +gathered in the rudely furnished, dark little room. There was much +disturbance outside when it was known what was in progress. One zealous +defender of the truth sprang from his seat and rushed out in a most +militant manner to disperse the noisy crowd without. While the little +service was in progress, it was not always easy to keep the attention of +all, on account of the noisy beating of tin cans near by; and some +pebbles were thrown in at the windows. The service was completed, +however, and this was the beginning of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> what has proved to be one of our +most vigorous churches. There is now a simple church building, which is +always well filled at regular services, and new members are ready to +come forward at almost every communion service.</p> + +<p>The village of Hakoor is memorable, not so much because of hostile +opposition to the work as because of the apparently feeble instrument +used of God for the establishment of the church. A blind man, of keen +and inquiring mind, lived in this village and made a precarious living +by keeping a little shop. He was respected by his neighbors for his +integrity of character, and trusted by the church authorities for his +fidelity to church duties. He began to hear something of the new +evangelical doctrine and though ready to investigate, was strong in his +opposition and slow to yield to the new faith. When once thoroughly +convinced, however, his very honesty of nature made him accept the truth +and declare himself for the Protestant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> view. The bishop sent for him, +in order to recall him from his error. He told the bishop that he was +convinced that the teaching and practice of the Greek Church were not in +harmony with the gospel, and that he had decided to follow the teaching +of God rather than that of men, but that he was ready to hear anything +the bishop had to say to convince him that he was mistaken. The bishop +began to read him a controversial tract recently prepared against the +Protestant doctrine. Our blind friend interrupted him, saying: "I have +heard all that and can give you an outline of the whole argument. It +does not convince me and so, if you have nothing stronger, it will do no +good." The bishop then reviled him, comparing his course to that of +Judas toward Christ, and so cast him off. The blind man went home, glad +to suffer abuse for the truth. He gathered around him a group of +neighbors who studied the gospel under his guidance, and a little church +has grown up in that <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>village, to which he ministered regularly for a +year, when no other preacher could be found. The little band has been +full of zeal and has raised the money to build a little chapel in which +they worship and in which their children are taught.</p> + +<p>By means which are insufficient in the sight of men, in spite of +opposition from those who are hostile to the truth, God's word continues +to bear fruit and the gospel light continues to spread throughout the +world.</p> + +<p>The missionary is met, in his periodic visitation of the outstations, +with every conceivable request and complaint. I am often asked to mend a +clock or a watch. I have been appealed to to adjust a coffee mill which +did not work right. Matrimonial and family difficulties must often be +arranged. I have told the people that there is one complaint I am always +glad to hear, and that is to the effect that the place of worship is too +small for the regular attendants. When I first went to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> village of +Minyara, the services were held in a small room about twenty by +twenty-five feet. There was room to spare, though not a great deal. In a +few years it became necessary to plan for enlargement. This was +accomplished by securing a piece of land adjacent to the building, +taking out the end wall and extending the room so as to increase its +capacity about two thirds. The growth of the congregation was so rapid +and steady that this enlargement was not completed before the room was +again inadequate. An appeal was made to a generous friend in St. Louis, +and five hundred dollars were sent for the Minyara chapel. A further +piece of land was secured, and plans made for an entirely new and larger +building. The outline is rectangular, and the flat roof is supported by +three rows of arches, resting on six pillars. This building has been +ample for the accommodation of this growing church for many years, +though it is often well filled and would be far from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> sufficient, were +not half the members in America.</p> + +<p>In the city of Homs the old church had a flat dirt roof supported by two +heavy arches, which made the room seem dark and contracted. The regular +congregations taxed the capacity of the building, and the roof timbers +were showing signs of weakness which would necessitate an early renewal. +The pastor of the church began to work earnestly for a reconstruction of +the roof, with an enlargement of the audience room. There was a little +vacant space at one end of the building which if it were inclosed would +increase the capacity about forty per cent. At the same time the heavy +arches could be removed and a galvanized iron roof placed over the +enlarged building. But this would cost a considerable sum, and how was +that to be raised? The people thought they could not raise more than two +hundred dollars. The same friend in St. Louis, who had provided for the +Minyara chapel, sent another five<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> hundred dollars, and we made this +proposition to the church: "After the church spends two hundred and +fifty dollars, the mission will put in five hundred, but if any more is +needed the church must provide it." They went to work with a will. When +the dirt from the old roof was to be carried out they organized a +regular church bee. All the men of the church came together, the pastor, +the doctor, the teacher, the merchant, each one taking one of the rough +baskets in which they carry dirt, and all together got the whole pile +removed at a considerable saving to the building fund. Before the work +was finished the church had raised and expended quite as much money as +they had received from outside. This enlarged place of worship has again +become too small, and its further enlargement is a pressing problem.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i094a.jpg" id="i094a.jpg"></a><img src="images/i094a.jpg" alt="HADETH SUMMER HOME" /></div> + +<p class="bold">HADETH SUMMER HOME</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i094b.jpg" id="i094b.jpg"></a><img src="images/i094b.jpg" alt="ABU MAROON, THE HADETH CARPENTER" /></div> + +<p class="bold">ABU MAROON, THE HADETH CARPENTER</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter VII</span></span> <span class="smaller">CAMPING LIFE</span></h2> + +<p>At the close of a tour one spring, Mrs. Nelson and I were compelled to +reach home on a fixed date, because of the expected arrival of guests. +The weather had been unpropitious and the rains heavy for the season of +the year. At one point we had been shut in for several days by a +snowstorm, and all the rivers were unusually high. We had a broad plain +to cross, intersected by three rivers which must be forded. The rain had +been persistent, but ceased on the day we were obliged to start for +home. We reached the first river after about an hour's ride, and crossed +it successfully, the water coming near to the girths of the saddles. The +second river was reached and crossed without serious difficulty, but +from there onward the entire plain seemed to be under water, and our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +horses splashed along through water and mud without interruption. Toward +sundown we neared the last stream, and congratulated ourselves that just +beyond it we should find the carriage road and a dry place for the +night. Our road lay through a wretched little Nusairiyeh village, just +before reaching the river, and as we passed the houses we were hailed by +many voices assuring us that the river could not be forded with safety. +I did not believe this at first, thinking it merely a ruse to compel us +to spend the night in their village. Such an event would be more or less +profitable to the people who would provide our necessities for a +consideration, even if there was no thought of robbery, which was quite +possible also. We waited for our muleteers, as they were familiar with +the stream and would be able to decide whether we could cross or not. +Their verdict agreed with the statement of the villagers and so we were +obliged to negotiate for a lodging place.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p><p>After some parley we were allowed to stop in the sheik's public room. +There was not a dry spot about the town, but by riding up close to the +door, we were able to dismount on a large log, and then jump across a +mud puddle to the doorsill, and so enter the room assigned to us. It +would be hard to make anyone who has not seen such houses realize what +this room was like. It was about twenty feet square, with one door and +no window. The lack of this latter was partly supplied by the fact that +the wall of the house had tumbled in at one corner, leaving a ragged +hole through which light and air entered freely. The floor was of dirt +and at two levels. One half, which was used to accommodate people, was +reached by a high step and was comparatively dry. In the middle of this +higher floor was a smoldering wood fire, from which the smoke had +colored the roof timbers a shiny black. The lower half of the floor was +on a level with the ground outside or even a little lower, and was +decidedly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> muddy. This section was for the accommodation of horses and +cattle. When our party was all inside, so that we could take a census, +we found that the occupants of the room for the night were to be, +besides myself and my wife, the three muleteers, a cook and a Syrian +maid accompanying us to the city. We were in the higher part of the +room. In the other part were two horses, four mules, a goat and a calf. +These were the visible animals, and anyone who has traveled under +similar conditions will appreciate what is meant when I say there were +myriads of other creatures which made themselves known through other +senses than sight.</p> + +<p>The sheik was seated by the fire, warming himself, and gave us a scant +welcome. We took such a supper as we were able to provide in the +circumstances, and prepared to be as comfortable as possible for the +night. One of the men had been suffering from malaria and so I prepared +for him, and others in the party, a dose of quinine,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> after the fatigue +and exposure of the day. The sheik immediately asked what it was, and +desired a dose for himself and the other men present. It was the same +principle as that which makes bargain sales attractive. Something is +going cheap or gratis, and so I must have it, whether I need it or not. +Doses were given out to all who wished for it, for a few grains of +quinine seldom go amiss in this country. Conversation was not very +lively, about that smoky fire, as we were tired and there were not many +topics of common interest. At length our cook thought he would +facilitate matters a little. He had lived with foreigners long enough to +know the advantage of appealing to the gallantry of men toward the +ladies, so he said in his most ingratiating tone to the sheik, "The lady +is tired and would like to go to sleep." "Well, let her do so, there is +no objection." With a scarcely restrained chuckle, the cook subsided for +a time and then tried again, saying this time, "The Effendi (gentleman)<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +is tired and would be much obliged if you would leave so that he may +sleep." This was a different proposition and seemed to meet something of +a response. Shortly, one of those present got up and went over into the +corner of the room where he spread out his cloak and proceeded to his +Moslem devotions. When he was through, another followed him with equal +deliberation, and we began to doubt whether we should sleep before +morning. At length the last one withdrew and we were left to ourselves, +including the attendants and animals mentioned before. We spread our +camp bedsteads in the driest part of the room and made ready to sleep. +It was not long, however, before the rain began to fall, and very soon +the roof began to leak over our heads. We spread rubber coats over +ourselves and raised our umbrellas over our heads and tried to see the +humor of the situation. At early dawn we were up and packed our goods +for a new start. The river had fallen sufficiently in the night to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> +permit our crossing, though with some difficulty. On the farther bank we +found a party of people waiting until the stream should subside +sufficiently to allow them to cross with their small donkeys.</p> + +<p>Every summer it is necessary to make a change from the heat of the plain +to the more bracing air of the mountains. This is not a vacation, for +the missionary's work goes on with little variation, wherever he may be, +but it involves a change of base and the setting up of a simple +household in different surroundings. In those earlier years the mountain +life was exceedingly simple and the means of transportation most crude. +The village of Hadeth is accessible from Tripoli and in a beautiful +situation, directly opposite the famous grove of Cedars of Lebanon. It +lies on a ridge in the mountains at an elevation of some forty-five +hundred feet above the sea. More than one season have we spent in the +house of old Abu Maroon, the village carpenter. The house consisted of +four<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> large rooms, opening on a long, arched porch which extended the +full length of the house. The floors were of dirt and the walls roughly +plastered with mud. We rented three of these rooms, the owners occupying +the fourth. The partitions between the rooms were made of brushwood, +plastered on both sides with mud. These partitions extended only about +three fourths of the way to the roof, leaving ample space above for +ventilation and conversation. The uncovered twigs and small branches at +the top of these partitions made an attractive, artistic feature, very +pleasing to many of our visitors. One of the regular household duties in +those mountain houses was the renewing of the mud on the floors. Every +week or two it was necessary to remove everything from the rooms, spread +a fresh coat of watery mud over the floor, and polish it off with a +smooth, round stone kept for the purpose. We could then anticipate +reasonable freedom from fleas for another period.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p><p>The only way to reach a summer resort was on horseback, over very rough +bridle paths. All furniture had to be transported by mules in like +manner; folding chairs and tables, camping utensils and necessary +bedding had to be made into suitable bundles; indispensable supplies had +to be provided and mules secured to carry all to the mountains. It was a +long, hard day's ride and the party was sure to be pretty tired the +first night of arrival, but the renewed vigor in the fresh mountain air +gave new strength for the resumption of life on the hotter plain in the +fall and it was well worth all the trouble it cost.</p> + +<p>When it is possible to secure a week or two for real rest, there is no +more delightful way to accomplish the purpose than to make a camp in the +cedar grove. This clump of trees lies in a basin in the higher +mountains, about six thousand feet above sea level. On the east and +north, and somewhat on the south, the mountains rise about this great +amphitheater to about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> four thousand feet more, being the highest +mountains anywhere in Syria. Large patches of snow lie perpetually on +these highest mountains, but the slopes are bare, having no trees nor +shrubs beyond clumps of thorns and scanty grass where the melting snows +afford some moisture. Flocks of goats range over these barren slopes, +gaining a scanty subsistence. In the days of Solomon and Hiram of Tyre +these mountains were probably covered with cedar forests. Nowadays only +small sections are so covered, though on many of the bare heights the +people still dig up the old stumps of great cedar trees, which they sell +for fuel in the cities.</p> + +<p>On the entire mountain range there is left no single grove of really +ancient cedars, except the one of which I have spoken, known among the +people as the "Cedars of the Lord" or simply as "The Cedars." It is +impossible to speak with certainty of the age of these great trees, but +from what we know of their slow growth and the size<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> of many of the +trunks, it is safe to place their age in the thousands of years. There +are more than four hundred trees in the grove and their reputed sanctity +has protected them from destruction. Some forty years ago one of the +governors of Mount Lebanon had a wall built inclosing the grove and a +guardian appointed. This affords protection from goats, and now a number +of small trees are growing up to perpetuate the grove in generations to +come. If proper steps were taken for reforesting the whole of Lebanon, +there would be a great improvement in many ways, and the agricultural +wealth of the country would be greatly increased.</p> + +<p>To establish a camp among these grand old trees is a most delightful way +to spend a short vacation. The silence of the nights under the spreading +branches; the fragrance of the foliage; the soothing sigh of the breeze +among the tree tops; the beautiful and ever-changing colors on the +higher mountain slopes; the beautiful outlook to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> the west over the +narrow valley out to the distant Mediterranean; all these influences +tend to quiet the tired nerves, refresh the exhausted brain and draw the +discouraged heart back to quiet and rest in the hand of the Master.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter VIII</span></span> <span class="smaller">PERSECUTION</span></h2> + +<p>Late one afternoon as I was sitting in my study, the doorbell rang and a +young man from Hamath entered, showing every token of great excitement +and fatigue. He had just arrived on the diligence from Homs. As soon as +he was sufficiently composed to give me a clear story, he told me that +the preacher in Hamath had been suddenly arrested by the local +authorities, and after somewhat rough treatment, had been sent under +guard to Damascus, a journey of five days on horseback, as it was before +the era of railroads. So far as I could learn from my informant, the +case was one of flagrant persecution, with no culpable occasion behind +it. The first thing to be done was to quiet the excitement of our +friend, who had brought<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> the word himself rather than trust a written +message. Giving him a chance to rest, I made hasty arrangements for a +night ride to Beirut. The moon would rise about ten o'clock and I +arranged for two riding horses to be ready for us before midnight. We +set out together through the olive orchards under the witchery of the +moonlight. It would have been a pleasant experience under other +circumstances. The road follows the general line of the seashore, at +times close to the breaking waves, and again rising on a rocky bluff at +whose base the blue sea keeps up an incessant murmur. In the silent +night the play of advancing and retreating waves gives a constantly +varied effect of light and sound.</p> + +<p>Before noon we reached Beirut and consulted with various missionary +friends and the consuls of America, England and Germany, who take an +interest in matters affecting the Protestants in Turkey. It was decided +that our Hamath friend should go at once to Damascus, while I awaited<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +word from him whether my presence was needed. The following day a +telegram agreed upon between us brought the brief message, "Better +come." The old French diligence in those days made the trip across Mount +Lebanon to Damascus in something over thirteen hours, a rather fatiguing +day. On the evening of my arrival we had a conference of the immediate +circle of friends, and the arrested man himself was among us. This was a +thoroughly characteristic incident, under Turkish administration, and so +merits a word of explanation. During the journey from Hamath to +Damascus, friendly relations had been established between the prisoner +and his escort, so that the latter were willing to accommodate their +prisoner in any reasonable measure. It was agreed upon that they should +not announce their arrival nor report to their superiors for a few days +until the prisoner secured a little rest and made arrangements for his +defense. Hence I was informed by our friend himself that he would not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +arrive in Damascus "officially" for several days.</p> + +<p>It is needless to go into all the details of this event but the +animating cause of the incident has its humorous as well as its +enlightening side. Some time before, our friend had wished to compliment +the man who was at the time governor of Hamath. Being of a literary turn +he wrote a flattering poem to present on a suitable occasion. +Indiscreetly he worked into his poem serious reflections on another man +who was the governor's enemy and who held a similar post at a distance. +The governor was so pleased that the poem was printed for distribution +and a copy reached the hands of the other man, who was naturally not +pleased with it. In the subsequent shifting of appointments this very +man became governor of Hamath, and found a way to vent his spite at the +poet.</p> + +<p>When looked at from a safe perspective, most of the so-called +persecution in Syria has a predominant touch of humor in it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> The most +convenient and suitable place for Tripoli missionary families to spend +their summers is in the village of Hadeth close to the summer seat of +the Maronite patriarch. The whole valley is considered sacred, and hence +strongly guarded against the pollution of any heretical evangelical +influences. For a number of years the ecclesiastics tried, in every way +they could devise, to make us trouble and to prevent our securing houses +in the town, or finding any comfort when we did so. During one summer +they were especially aggressive and seemed determined to be rid of us. +The priests warned everyone against serving us in any way, and against +selling us anything to eat. For a few days our servant had to go to a +neighboring town to buy supplies. The woman who had been doing our +washing sent word she could not come. A special conclave assembled and +summoned our landlord, threatening all sorts of vengeance if he did not +turn us out. They said that a mob would destroy his house<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> over our +heads. The poor old man came to me in great fear, knowing the +unscrupulousness of his opponents, and thinking they might get up some +false accusation against him in the government and cast him into prison +or subject him to needless loss or expense. I assured him they would not +dare touch us or attack his property and that the whole plan was to +frighten us into leaving town, if possible. I told him that we were to +leave on a certain day in October. When the hostile party learned this, +they drew up a pledge that the Americans were to be expelled from town +on the day I had indicated, under a forfeit of fifty pounds from the +landlord to the local church. He was also required to go to the church +and apologize publicly to the people, kiss the floor of the church in +front of the picture of the Virgin, and pay a pound into the treasury. +He was then accepted as in good and regular standing, and all waited for +the appointed day. Unfortunately I did not know of this until it was too +late<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> to change our plans. On the day appointed we left town with our +household goods and as we rode away we heard the church bells ringing +out a peal of rejoicing to celebrate the cleansing of the town. Times +have changed now, and the same priest who led in the opposition then +will call upon us and crack jokes about the times gone by.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter IX</span></span> <span class="smaller">EMIGRATION</span></h2> + +<p>The period of my life in Syria has witnessed the rapid development of +emigration. In former days there was very little travel among the +people, the marriage of a girl to a man in a neighboring village being a +notable and rather rare occurrence. It was no unusual thing for a person +to spend his whole life without ever going so much as ten miles from his +birthplace. I was entertained for supper one night at the home of a +wealthy Moslem in Homs. The old father of our host was present and I +entered into conversation with him as to the experiences of his long +life. He told me that he had taken four wives, as permitted by Moslem +law. He had twenty sons who had all grown up and married in Homs. He +said that his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>grandsons numbered about a hundred, all of whom he knew +by face, though he might not be able to fit the right name to each, at +first sight. Knowing him to be quite wealthy, I asked whether he had +traveled much. My first question was whether he had been to the +seashore, some sixty-five miles away at Tripoli. He had never seen the +sea. "Have you been to Damascus?" This would appeal more to a devout +Moslem, since the sea is always associated more or less with the unholy +foreigners of Christian faith, while Damascus is an ancient seat of +Moslem power and glory. "No, I have never seen Damascus," was his +answer. "Well, surely you have been to Hamath?" This is only thirty +miles distant. "No," he said, "I never went to Hamath." "Have you passed +your whole life right here in Homs?" "Once," he said, "I made a journey +out among the Arabs of the desert, to buy sheep." That was the extent of +traveling by an intelligent, well-to-do Moslem of the old school.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p><p>Some thirty or forty years ago a change began among the people and a +few enterprising men sought more favorable opportunities for making a +living in foreign lands. Many of them were successful and encouraged +others to follow them, until now the most profitable business of the +steamships calling at Syrian ports is the carrying of emigrants back and +forth. The weekly exit is numbered by the hundreds, and large numbers +also return from time to time. Few of those who return to Syria remain +for any length of time, for, having once tasted the liberty and +experienced the opportunities of life in western lands, they are no +longer content to fall back into the old, slow, unprofitable methods of +the Orient. A notable change has also come over the character of the +emigration in another respect. At first it was only the more +enterprising, vigorous young men who went abroad to seek their fortunes. +Now whole families go together. Women and girls emigrate as freely as +men. At first it was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> only Christians who sought to improve their +condition in Christian lands; now Moslems and Nusairiyeh go as freely as +do the Christians.</p> + +<p>At first this emigration was a blind flight from poverty and oppressive +conditions at home, with little understanding of the places to which the +emigrants were going. They placed themselves literally in the hands of +the steamship agents in Marseilles. Taking passage from Syria to +Marseilles, they were shipped on from there in bunches, according to the +advantage of the agent into whose hands they fell. They might be sent to +Argentine, while the friends to whom they were going were in +Massachusetts. They might be sent to Sierra Leone or to Capetown, but it +was all America in their minds. The simple idea of geography in those +days seemed to divide the world into two parts, Syria and America. The +common people know far better now, for they discuss intelligently the +conditions of life and business in the various parts of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> world. +Syrians are to be found in every one of the United States, from Maine to +Florida, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific. They are in Alaska, the +Sandwich Islands and the Philippines. They are in every country of +Central and South America, in the West Indies and in all parts of +Africa. In many places they have bought property and made permanent +business arrangements.</p> + +<p>In the early years there were many indications of their lack of +experience in money matters and general business methods. One man in +Brazil had accumulated quite a sum of money and wished to return home. +He did not understand the simplicity of taking a draft on London from +the bank, and was averse to parting with good gold for a mere slip of +paper. He changed all his money into English sovereigns and put the +whole nine hundred into a belt, which he secured around his body under +his clothes. He did not dare remove his treasure day or night during the +weeks of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> journey, enduring the weight and pressure until he reached +home. He was then taken sick and nearly lost his life from kidney +trouble induced by this folly.</p> + +<p>Another young man in Mexico started home by way of New York. He knew +that English and French gold are current in Syria, and was sure that +American gold was every bit as good. So he exchanged his money for +American gold coin. It came to my attention through a man who came to me +with a twenty-dollar gold piece, and asked what it was worth. When I +told him its real value, he showed such surprise as to arouse my +curiosity. It appeared that this coin, with one like it, had been given +as betrothal token for his daughter. Subsequently the engagement was +broken by the young man and so, in accordance with oriental custom, the +token was forfeited. The father, wishing to realize on the coin, took it +to a local goldsmith who pretended to examine it carefully and then +offered three dollars for it.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> The father was disappointed at this +appraisal and indignant that his daughter should have been rated so low. +The reaction, when he found the coin to be worth nearly seven times as +much as he had been informed, was almost too much for him.</p> + +<p>One matter connected incidentally with the emigration has been the call +for assistance in handling money for those abroad. In the earlier years +there were no adequate banking facilities outside of Beirut and so the +people began to send back money to their families through the hands of +friends who were merchants living in the various seaport towns. In +several cases unscrupulous men took advantage of the general ignorance +in money matters to secure abnormal profits to themselves, and in more +than one instance, through fraudulent bankruptcy, cheated the people out +of hundreds of pounds. Those who were in any way connected with the +American missionaries began sending their money to us, and at last we +were obliged to conduct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> quite an extensive banking business. In some +years drafts for several thousand pounds would come to me in sums +ranging from two or three pounds to several hundred at a time. These +were to be paid out to various relatives or to be held on deposit until +the owners' return. On one occasion I opened a registered letter from +Brazil and found in it a draft on London for ten pounds. On reading the +letter I found it to be written by a man I did not know, in behalf of +another stranger, and that the money was to be paid to an entire +stranger in a village I had never seen. It was enough for the sender to +know that his money was in the hands of an American missionary.</p> + +<p>On one occasion a returned emigrant came to my associate with a kerchief +full of silver and gold coins. He asked the privilege of depositing this +with the mission until he needed it. As it was evidently a considerable +sum, he was advised to put it in the bank so as to secure some +interest,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> but he preferred to feel sure that his money was safe, even +though it earned nothing. Neither did he see any necessity of waiting +until the money should be counted and a regular entry made of it in the +books. It was enough that the missionary had charge of it. This open +account remained with us a number of years and sometimes amounted to two +thousand dollars.</p> + +<p>A man sent me from Venezuela a draft for a hundred pounds, charging me +to let no one know of it, but to hold the money until he should come. +After a long interval I learned that his wife was thinking of going to +join him, since no word had been received. I succeeded in dissuading +her, as I knew he was planning to come home and they might miss each +other in mid-ocean. The return was delayed, and before he arrived his +funds in my hands amounted to six or seven hundred pounds.</p> + +<p>The volume of emigration is growing every year and is taking away the +strength of the land, but better banking facilities<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> have relieved us of +the financial cares formerly carried. The director of the Ottoman Bank +in Tripoli estimates the annual amount of money passing through this one +port in drafts from Syrians abroad as not less than seven hundred +thousand pounds sterling.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter X</span></span> <span class="smaller">SYRIAN ENTERPRISES</span></h2> + +<p>The final aim of mission work is the development of a self-supporting, +self-propagating Christian community, and hence the happiest experience +of a missionary's life is connected with the first independent +undertakings of the people whom he serves. In this connection there are +two interesting incidents connected with the life of the evangelical +church in Homs. There are men still living who remember when the gates +in the old city walls were closed every night at sunset, and a belated +traveler had to make himself as safe and comfortable as he could on the +outside until sunrise the next morning. When this old custom passed into +disuse, the city gradually outgrew the old limits and new sections<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> +began to appear outside the old walls. When I first visited Homs, there +was already a large settlement on the north side of the old city, known +as the Hamidiyeh in honor of the reigning sovereign Abd-ul-Hamid. In +this section of the city were a number of evangelicals and it was most +desirable that there should be regular services in that section. Much +difficulty was found in renting suitable quarters, and a change was +necessary every year or two. At length one of the most prosperous men in +the church decided that a permanent chapel must be secured. The people +in that part of the city were poor and could not raise money to buy +property. He decided to set aside a certain sum, and let it accumulate +in his own business until he should have sufficient for the purpose. He +did so, and after some years was able to purchase and remodel a house in +the Hamidiyeh. That little chapel has been in constant use now for many +years for public service on the Sabbath and school during<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> the week, and +is all the result of the generous thought of this one man.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i125.jpg" id="i125.jpg"></a><img src="images/i125.jpg" alt="HOMS Boys' School" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">HOMS</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Boys' School</i></p></div> + +<p>Early in the present century a zealous young man became the acting +pastor of the Homs church. He was constantly seeking for means to +strengthen the position of the evangelical church in the community and +was soon convinced of the importance of improving the schools, so as to +make them more effective and more attractive. He urged the church +forward in support of his plans, and raised the standard of work in the +schools. He himself was an indefatigable worker and inspired others with +the spirit of service. He gained the confidence of the man referred to +above and secured his help financially when needed. At length it seemed +to this pastor that all their efforts would be in vain unless he could +establish a boarding school for boys. It was not possible for the +mission to help in these plans at that time, and our earnest friend +decided to push ahead alone. A bequest was made to the evangelical +church in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> Homs by one of her members who died in Egypt. This was a +nucleus, and others were induced to contribute larger and smaller sums. +A beginning was made in temporary quarters in the city itself, while a +fine site was purchased outside for the permanent building. The school +was popular from the start, and, considering the cramped and unsuitable +quarters in which it was conducted, did admirable work. Syrians in Egypt +and America responded well to the appeal to their patriotism. A plain +but commodious building was erected on the new site and the school was +moved to its new home. The school has about four or five acres of land, +lying higher than any other plot near the city. This tract is inclosed +by a simple wall. Within is the two-story stone school building, with +accommodation for something over a hundred boarders, and a schoolroom +which might accommodate nearly twice that number. The kitchen and dining +room are in a simpler building adjacent. Thus has been<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> provided a +convenient, healthful home for the school, with ample playground and +suitable surroundings.</p> + +<p>A Christian community which shows the strength and ability to organize +and conduct such enterprises as these has certainly a degree of vitality +which gives us every confidence in its growth and advance in the future.</p> + +<p>One of the greatest misfortunes, as it appears to me, in the situation +of the subject races in Turkey, is their inability to appreciate the +value and meaning of the word "loyalty." I have failed to find an Arabic +word in common use which conveys the fullness of what we mean by that +word "loyalty," and it seems to be because the people have had no +occasion to express the idea. It is an inestimable loss to a people to +live in such conditions, for there is an inevitable reaction upon +character and a blighting effect on all the relations of life. This +condition of things has grown rapidly in recent years, and most +evidently during<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> the reverses of the Balkan war. It is an everyday +experience, in passing along the street, to hear people exclaiming +against the oppression and injustice of Turkish rule, with the +expression, "Anything would be better than the present condition." Nor +are such expressions any more frequent from Christians than from +Moslems. A member of one of the leading Mohammedan families was recently +quoted to me as saying: "We want an end of this business. We want the +English to come and take charge of us." One day as a merchant was taking +a bag of small coins from his safe to make a payment, he was warned not +to accumulate any large amount of these small coins, as they would +depreciate in value, if anything serious should happen to the Turkish +Government. With a look of disgust, he said, "I would gladly lose them +all and the silver coins, too, to be wholly rid of Turkey, once for +all." On another occasion a simple carriage driver expressed his views +in rough style, by saying, "Sir,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> the Devil himself would be an +improvement on the present state of things." Then more seriously, he +said, "We know we are not fitted for self-government, and what we want +most of all is England, or if that is impossible, then France." On a +railroad train there was one other passenger in the compartment with me. +While stopping at a station, something occurred to excite my companion +to violent abuse of the government. When he paused I said to him, "Sir, +how is it that you speak so, although you wear the fez?" He turned to me +and spoke most earnestly, but with no trace of excitement, saying, "Yes, +I am a Turk, and I am a Mohammedan, and nevertheless, I have no words +strong enough to express my contempt for the Turkish Government." All +these things are exceedingly sad, for it is an immeasurable loss to a +people if they cannot love and respect those whom they must obey.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XI</span></span> <span class="smaller">INTERRUPTIONS</span></h2> + +<p>Our life in Syria has been, on the whole, quiet, but it has not been +without its shadows. There is no life without its sorrows and unexpected +experiences. The comparative isolation of missionary life brings into +very close fellowship those who are cut off from the closer relationship +to friends in the homeland. One Sunday afternoon in the fall of 1906, I +was standing in the back of our chapel, awaiting the closing exercises +of the Sunday school. The telegraph messenger appeared at the door and +handed me a telegram, for which I signed without serious thought. When I +opened the paper and read the wholly unexpected message, all strength +seemed to leave me, and I hastened to a seat, lest I fall to the floor. +The message<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> told of the sudden death of my brother-in-law, Rev. W. K. +Eddy of Sidon, while away from home on a tour. We had considered him one +of the most vigorous men in the mission, for whom years of active +service might be expected, and now in a moment he had been called away, +leaving his family and his work to others. It took time to realize the +situation but some things had to be done at once. I called my servant +and sent him to secure an animal, as I had to start at once for Sidon. +Arrangements had to be made for my absence, and the sad news had to be +broken to the Tripoli circle of friends. By five o'clock I was ready to +start, and I shall never forget that night's ride. The first twenty +miles were covered in the early evening hours, on horseback over a +rough, stony road, while the question kept ringing through my mind, "Why +should this be?" About ten o'clock I reached the carriage road where I +could take a more comfortable and speedy conveyance. All through the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +dark night, as I jolted over the road, trying to get a little rest in +preparation for the hard day before me, I could not turn my mind from +the many problems connected with this sad experience. Who would take up +the work thus suddenly dropped? What plan would be made for the family +of growing children? The night was dark, but the dawn was approaching. +The way seemed dark, but the Father's love had brought us to this point +and he would not leave us to walk alone. In the early dawn, I reached +Beirut and found the missionary friends there ready to start for Sidon, +and so we all went on together, reaching the darkened home about noon. +The large assembly hall was filled in the afternoon for the funeral +services, and a great crowd of all classes of people marched out to the +cemetery, where the mortal remains of our loved brother and fellow +worker were laid away. Those are precious spots where we do the last +service on earth for those we have loved, but they are doubly precious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +on the mission field where the distance from the great body of family +friends and relatives is so deeply felt. But these occasions strengthen +the ties that bind us to the hearts and lives of those among whom we +live and whom we serve.</p> + +<p>We had scarcely adjusted ourselves to this sorrow when another of the +hard experiences of life came upon us. The season had been one of +exceptionally heavy work and continuous strain, which showed in a +decided break in health. The doctors said work must be dropped at once +and the winter be spent in Egypt, if a more serious break were to be +avoided. It was not exactly a pleasure excursion on which we started +during the Christmas holidays. There was no time to write ahead and make +inquiries or arrangements, so we set out to a strange land among +strangers, in search of health. Finding no place which seemed suitable +in lower Egypt, we decided to go up the river to Assiyut, and wrote a +letter to Dr. Alexander, president of the United<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> Presbyterian College +at that place. We had no personal acquaintance and no claim upon him, +but he was a missionary, and that was enough.</p> + +<p>It was a long ride and Egyptian railroads are nothing if not dusty. Our +spirits had not begun to rise yet, and we felt rather tired and wholly +disreputable in appearance, when we left the train at Assiyut, ready to +ask our way to the Greek hotel. But before we had a chance to do +anything, we saw a bright, cheery face, bearing an evident welcome, and +a hearty voice assuring us that the owner was Dr. Alexander and that he +had come to take us in charge. It was the first encouraging incident, +and lifted a weight from us at once. As we walked along he told us they +had held a conference over our case, and, having decided that we could +not be comfortable in the hotel, had placed at our disposal a rest room +provided in the hospital for members of their own mission or other +foreigners who needed rest and medical<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> attention. A more perfect +provision for our need could not have been devised. We enjoyed the +companionship of the corps of foreign nurses, sharing their table and +home life. We had the constant companionship as well as the professional +services of the four medical missionaries. Is it a wonder that I began +to gain at once? After nine weeks we returned to our work, made over and +with a new lease of life, a new sense of the solidarity of Christian +fellowship, and a new realization of the heavenly Father's tender care.</p> + +<p>Such experiences as that winter at Assiyut show how entirely +denominational differences are forgotten on the mission field. In social +intercourse, in the prayer circle, in discussion of mission problems, in +the church service, in the pulpit, there was never anything to remind us +that we were only Presbyterians while our kind hosts were United +Presbyterians. It was a delightful opportunity for the cultivation of +fellowship, and for the observation of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> other forms and methods of +mission work, under conditions very different from ours in Syria. The +work in Egypt is relieved from many of the problems so insistent in +Turkey. There is no hostile government, always suspicious of every move +made by a foreigner. There is no such inefficiency in the government as +makes the lives of Turkish subjects always insecure and travel +dangerous. But, on the other hand, the climatic conditions in Egypt are +far more trying than in Syria, as the heat is extremely enervating for +most of the year. These climatic conditions undoubtedly account to some +extent for the less virile, independent character of the people. But +whatever the differences in climate, whatever the differences in the +character of the people, whatever the differences in governmental +relations, we came back from Egypt more than ever impressed with the +fact that the conflict is one, the object aimed at is one, and the body +of workers is one, under the direction of our one Lord and Master.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span></p><p>In 1911 there came another break in the routine life of the field, but +with no such sorrow in it as in the former incidents. The second +Conference for Workers in Moslem Lands met in Lucknow in January 1911 +and our mission chose me as its delegate to that conference. The journey +through the Suez Canal and down the Red Sea and across the Arabian Sea +to Bombay was one of the experiences of life never to be forgotten. +There were enough of us going on the same journey to form a little group +of sympathetic companions and we had many an opportunity at table and on +deck to talk over the matters connected with our life work.</p> + +<p>The contrasts in the streets of Bombay are similar to those seen in all +the changing Orient, but with characteristic differences calculated to +catch the eye of one accustomed to the nearer East. Nowhere in Turkey do +you find such broad, magnificent, paved thoroughfares as those in +Bombay, and yet, beside the track of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> electric trolley, you see a +crude cart jogging along behind the humpbacked bullock. On the pavements +you see elaborately dressed ladies from Europe, or from the wealthy +Parsee families, with their Paris gowns and modern hats, and almost at +their elbows the dark-skinned members of the sweeper caste, clad in a +simple loin cloth. You step out of the finely appointed barber shop in +your modern hotel, with its polite, English-speaking attendant, to see +by the roadside a group of swarthy Indians, crouching on the ground, as +one of their number shaves the crowns of their heads.</p> + +<p>The tourist in Galilee in the spring of the year is impressed by the +variety and brilliancy of color all about him in the wild flowers of the +fields. As we walked the streets of Bombay, the same impression was made +upon us by the brightness and variety in the headdress of the men. If +there is any color known to the dyers' art not found among the turbans +of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>Bombay it is merely because no samples have as yet been sent there. +Every shape as well as every shade is found, and it would almost seem as +if the excessive attention paid to the head covering had exhausted the +energy of the people, leaving no desire or ability to devise any +covering for the rest of the body. A stranger may wonder also at first +why everyone seems to have forgotten to wash his face. Those curious +blotches of varicolored clay on the forehead are not accidental nor an +indication of carelessness to one's personal appearance. On the +contrary, they indicate fidelity to religious duty and reveal to the +initiated the special temple most recently visited by the devout +worshiper. For a transient visitor, this variety and intricacy are +puzzling, but to the initiated everything has its meaning and the +varieties of headdress tell the tale of religious affiliation and caste +gradation.</p> + +<p>Comfortable train service carried us quickly to the north, giving us +glimpses of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital, with its reminders of the +mutiny; and Agra with its matchless architectural gem, the Taj Mahal. We +reached Agra at the close of the day, and after locating ourselves at +the hotel, set out on foot to have our first glimpse of the Taj by +moonlight. No matter what one may have read of this wonderful building, +no matter what pictures or models one may have seen, I have yet to meet +a person who has not been most deeply impressed by the first vision of +the reality. The approach through the dark foliage of the quiet garden +gives a chance for the impressive grandeur of the marble structure to +fix itself in the visitor's mind. By the time he enters the spacious +archway, he has begun to appreciate the perfection of the curves, the +nobility of the dimensions, the purity of the white marble and the +graceful dignity of the whole combination. The beautifully inlaid black +lettering from the Koran follows the curves of the lofty arch overhead, +adding a sense<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> of sacredness to the entrance. And yet, when one is +inside, he almost forgets the impressions received without. In place of +stateliness and grandeur, we find here a beauty of finish and exactness +of detail which surpass all the more massive qualities of the exterior. +The central tomb is surrounded by a marble screen carved with a delicacy +that makes one forget the marble and think he sees before him the most +perfect and delicate lace veil. The pillars and panels of the screen, +the inner walls of the building, as well as the sides of the tomb +itself, are decorated with the most beautifully inlaid work of vines and +wreaths of flowers represented in their natural colors, in the most +delicate shades of precious stone. One wonders to find such exquisite +work anywhere and the wonder increases when one realizes that this is +not the product of modern skill and patience, but that it has stood +here, from the days of the Mogul Empire, when we consider that India was +a land of barbarians.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> And more than this is to follow, for this +wonderful mausoleum was erected at fabulous cost by a Moslem ruler, in +memory of his wife.</p> + +<p>We were not in India merely as sightseers. After a night ride on the +train we reached Lahore in the early morning and at the station received +the hearty welcome of J. C. R. Ewing, D.D., president of Forman +Christian College. Again in northern India we had the loving handclasp +of a fellow missionary and the cordial welcome to a missionary home. The +short visit there could give us but a faint impression of what that +college is doing for the Punjab and what a position and influence the +missionaries have among the people of every class, whether Indian or +British. Never did I have such a vivid impression of the awful +experiences of the mutiny, or the wonderful changes wrought by British +rule in India, as when I stood on some of the memorable spots at +Cawnpore and Lucknow, and reviewed the record of treachery<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> and loyalty, +cowardice and bravery, cruelty and gallantry, which were developed in +the awful experiences of the Mutiny. To-day, no matter what may be the +restlessness and uncertainty of the situation, India is a united +country, and not a medley of hostile principalities and warring +kingdoms. Railroads cover the land in every direction with an efficient +service. Perfect carriage roads make the land a paradise for motor cars +and bicycles. Military encampments near all the large cities assure +security of life and property. Schools and colleges are extending +knowledge in every direction. Wealth is taking place of poverty, +knowledge of ignorance, light of darkness, and religion is coming into +its own as a real force in human life and no longer as merely a badge of +faction or clan.</p> + +<p>The gathering at Lucknow was notable. Delegates of many nationalities +gathered in that hall. Workers in many lands and in widely differing +conditions, we came together for a common purpose. Members<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> of many +Christian denominations, we united in the worship of one Master. +Differences were forgotten in a deeper union. Whatever allegiance we +owed to earthly sovereigns, we met as children of the heavenly King. +Whatever may have been the language of our ordinary service, here we had +but one language—that of loving fellowship. We were members of separate +bands of commissioners, coming together at the feet of our Leader to ask +for fuller instructions in the pursuit of his work.</p> + +<p>The keynote of the Lucknow Conference was to win the Moslem world by +love, the love of Christ incarnate in his messenger. It is one of the +most hopeful signs in the advancement of the kingdom that the attractive +power of love is more prominent than the overwhelming power of argument. +It is a great help to the right placing of this emphasis that workers in +many lands, of many nations, of many denominations, are drawing nearer +together and working<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> more in harmony. I returned from India, rejoicing +in all I had seen of God's power and blessing in that land, but with a +deeper conviction that the work in India, in China, in Africa, in Syria +is all one work, under one Master.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XII</span></span> <span class="smaller">OUR SUPPORTERS</span></h2> + +<p>One of the brightest things in the missionary's happy lot is the +beautiful relation existing between those on the field and those whom +they represent in the homeland. Many years ago we were calling, one +evening, upon our landlord in Tripoli. The eldest son had recently +returned from America, and in the course of conversation the father +asked from what part of the United States we came, in order to see +whether his son had been in the same vicinity. The son at once replied: +"I know the name of the place, but I do not know in what state it is. +They come from Private Funds." We could not think at first what he +meant, but then discovered that he had found a missionary report among +some old magazines thrown<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> out from the house. In this he had seen our +names in a list of missionaries, giving the name of the society by which +each was supported. Seeing "Private Funds" opposite our names, he +thought it must be the name of the town from which we came, though, as +he said, he did not know in what state it was located. A little +knowledge is truly a dangerous thing.</p> + +<p>The relation indicated by those words, which has subsisted for +twenty-five years, has been most happy. When I was a senior in the +seminary and had already made my application to the Foreign Board, I +received a letter from Mr. George D. Dayton of Minnesota. He was the son +of an elder in my father's old church in Geneva, only a few years older +than I, but already a prosperous business man whose generosity in the +Lord's work was becoming well known. He urged upon me the need and +opportunity in the home mission field of the growing northwest. I +answered him, explaining as fully as I could, the reasons<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> that had led +me to decide that my life should be devoted to another field, realizing +that my answer would be a disappointment to him and might cause some +weakening of the ties of friendship already strong between us.</p> + +<p>The next that I heard of the subject was that Mr. Dayton had written to +the Foreign Board, assuming our support as the personal representatives +of his family in the foreign field. Thus, instead of weakening our +friendship, my choice was the beginning of a closer and warmer relation +than ever. It has always been recognized as a family matter, and I shall +never forget the comfort and strength that came to us in one of the +early years through a letter from Mr. Dayton. It was written on Sunday +afternoon, and contained words to this effect: "To-day was the time +appointed for the annual offering for foreign missions in our church. +Before going to church I gathered the family together and talked to the +children about you as our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> representatives in Syria. Then we united in +prayer at the family altar for God's blessing on you. At church I placed +in the collection my check for the amount I have pledged to the Board +for your support." Through letters and visits in the home when on +furlough, this delightful relation has grown more and more precious as +the years have passed, and it has been a pleasure to acknowledge that we +come from Private Funds, which, we are sure, is situated in the State of +Felicity, in the United States of Brotherly Love.</p> + +<p>It has been said that a missionary furlough is an excellent thing if it +is not needed too urgently. We have had two most thoroughly enjoyable +furloughs in the homeland, during our missionary life. Each visit to +America has tended to refresh and invigorate us most admirably for a new +period of service and we have added many to the circle of friends who +encourage us in our work and keep vigorous the connecting link with the +workers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> at home. The periods of our absence from America have had a +curious coincidence with the change in methods of locomotion in America. +When we first came to Syria in 1888, the horse car was still supreme in +American cities. Experimental lines of electric trolleys were being +tried in certain places, but I had never seen an electric car. When we +returned to America in 1897, we found the trolley in all the cities, and +I remember being disturbed, the first Sunday in Philadelphia, by a +strange whirring sound during the morning service. I could think of no +explanation except the weird creaking of the great water wheels in +Hamath, but there were no such waterworks in Philadelphia. I soon became +familiar with the hum of the trolley.</p> + +<p>During that first furlough, there was much written in the magazines +about automobiles, and people were wondering whether the auto would +really be practicable, but I did not see a machine. Our first sight of +an auto was in Cairo, in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> Egypt. We reached America on our second +furlough in 1908, and the first day on shore gave us our first ride in +an auto, which we found rapidly taking a recognized place in American +everyday life. Again the magazines had much to say about the aëroplane, +but we did not see one while in America. My first sight of a human flyer +was at Allahabad, in India. It looks now as if a ride in an aëroplane +might not be a strange experience in our third furlough.</p> + +<p>The meeting of earnest Christian workers all over the land, in +conventions and missionary meetings, is a real refreshment physically +and spiritually. So long as the missionary's health is good, he finds it +a joy to speak for the cause and mingle with the workers at home. I +traveled a good many miles to meet appointments on each furlough. I +spoke on many platforms, and the cordial welcome extended and the close +attention paid to the message were an ample reward for whatever there +was of fatigue in the service. Many times I felt<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> humiliated by what +seemed to me the extreme and unmerited deference paid to us, simply +because we were foreign missionaries. So far as Syria is concerned, the +missionary of to-day asks for no sympathy on the score of physical +privations. We are in close touch with European and American +civilization. We can obtain whatever is necessary for physical wellbeing +and comfort. The climate is not excessively enervating and we can have +good homes. There are many things that are trying in the life of a +missionary, but no more so than in the lives of many workers in the +homeland.</p> + +<p>The isolation from friends and relatives is often one of the most trying +features of missionary life. When sickness or death enter the family +circle far away, it is not easy to think of the miles of restless ocean +that lie between us and them. The whole unchristian, unsympathetic +atmosphere makes life hard at times, but the compensations are so many +that it makes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> one ashamed to be held up as a model of self-sacrifice. +The missionary feels, as the earnest worker at home feels, and as Paul +felt years ago, when he said, "The love of Christ constraineth us."</p> + +<p>The first home-going was peculiarly happy, for in neither of the two +family circles had there been any break. The only changes had come by +marriage and birth. The circles were expanding, and there was no place +vacated during the period of our absence. The second going was very +different in this respect. Many who had been vigorous were feeble. Many +who had bidden us a bright farewell were not present to welcome us on +our return. Children had become men and women. There were wrinkles on +the faces and gray hair on the heads of those whom we had expected to +find still as young as we were. But, somehow, it began to dawn on us +that we ourselves were no longer counted among the young folks in the +church.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span></p><p>The general recollection of those two furloughs is one of bright smiles +and cheery welcomes, helpful handclasps and a joyous fellowship.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XIII</span></span> <span class="smaller">PERSONAL FRIENDS</span></h2> + +<p>It was one of the most delightful phases of our experience in charge of +the boys' school to find how closely the ties of love to the boys bound +them to our hearts, and to realize that with many of them it was no mere +oriental compliment when they called us their father and mother. There +are many of those lads, now growing to manhood, in whose successes we +take a parental pride, and for whose growth in all that is good and true +we pray, with parental earnestness. Among the many preachers and +teachers in all the churches and schools, we count many as most truly +our brethren and fellow workers for the Master. There are very many +Syrians in all parts of America, as well as in this land, of whom we +think in terms of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> truest brotherhood. It is with no sense of +disparagement to the multitude that I have selected three of the elders +in our churches for special mention. It has seemed to me, as I look back +over their lives, that there are some specially suggestive elements in +the way the Lord has led them and blessed them, which are worthy of +special note. At the same time these experiences have brought all three +into specially close relations with myself personally. I shall mention +them in the order of the commencement of my acquaintance with them.</p> + +<p>In 1885, before I entered the mission, I was for a few months in Syria, +merely as a visitor. It happened that the College in Beirut was +short-handed that year, and in need of an additional teacher. Dr. Bliss +asked me to help them out and so I became for two months a member of the +teaching force in the preparatory department. During this time I made +the acquaintance of a lad in the senior class of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> that department, named +Towfik Sallum. He was a quiet, studious lad, who made no trouble and was +always busy with his books or seeking to increase his English +vocabulary. In the brief time of my remaining in the college, my +acquaintance was slight and the memory of this boy would have passed +from my mind, had there been no subsequent association. When I became a +member of the Tripoli Station and made the acquaintance of the various +workers in the field, I found that this lad was the brother of the +preacher in Hamath. Their father had been the first preacher in that +church, and upon his death the eldest son had succeeded to his father's +position in the church, as well as to the parental responsibility for +the care and training of his younger brothers. Towfik spent some years +in the service of the mission as teacher, in intervals of his college +course. In 1892 he was graduated with honor, and in 1896 took his degree +in medicine also. He settled at once in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> Hamath, where he was well known +personally, and where his family associations made a valuable +professional asset. The conditions of life in ancient Hamath are +exceedingly primitive and only a small portion of the population have +any intelligent appreciation of the value of modern medicine. +Perseverance and tact won their way and a valuable practice was built +up. With increasing years and widening acquaintance, the doctor became +generally known, universally trusted, and highly respected in government +circles as well as among the people. In case the governor wished a +reliable report on any case of attack or murder, he was sure to send Dr. +Sallum to investigate. He was to be trusted to tell the truth.</p> + +<p>When the new constitution was promulgated in 1908, it was provided that +all religious sects were to be entitled to representation in the local +administrative courts in rotation, irrespective of the size of those +bodies. Formerly only the largest of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> Christian sects had been +allowed representation. This provision gave the Protestants a right to +civil equality and they put forward Dr. Sallum as their representative. +He was accepted, and served most creditably for the term of two years. +It was then the turn of the Catholic sect to have a representative, and +the heads of the various bodies were summoned by the governor to arrange +for the choice of the new member. The governor explained the situation +and said that as the Protestants had held the office for two years, it +was now the right of the Catholics to choose a representative to succeed +the Protestant member. Then, turning to the Catholic priest, he said, +"If you have a candidate who is more capable than Dr. Sallum or who is +his equal, we shall be glad to welcome him, but if not, I should advise +you to ask him to continue in office, acting now as representative of +the Catholics." The priest replied most cordially that his sect would be +delighted to be represented by Dr.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> Sallum, if he would consent. In this +way the doctor has become practically a permanent member of the +governor's council, acting alternately for the Protestants and the +Catholics. At the same time the proud member of the large Greek Orthodox +sect has to give place every two years to the member chosen by the +Jacobite church.</p> + +<p>In 1892 I was in Homs for the administration of the sacraments. Among +those who came in on Saturday evening was Mr. Rafool Nasser, a young man +who had not been long identified with the Protestant church. He told me +that he wished to have his little girl baptized the next day. He had +been married for several years and this was the first child, so the +occasion was one of more than usual joy. The next morning, before the +service began, I saw Mr. Nasser come in and take a seat quite at the +back of the church, contrary to his usual custom. He seemed depressed +and I wondered what had occurred. When the time came for baptisms he +made no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> move to come forward and so I proceeded with the children who +were presented. At the close of the service I inquired into the matter, +and learned that Mr. Nasser had informed his wife the evening before +that the little girl was to be baptized the next day. His wife then +informed him that she had already had the child baptized secretly by the +priest. This explained the depression I had noticed in the father's +face. Two years later the parents stood together while I baptized the +second child, and all the others have been presented without question +for the rite of baptism. This was the beginning of my acquaintance with +Mr. Nasser, with whom I have been somewhat intimate in recent years.</p> + +<p>He was a man of prominent family in Homs and has been highly prospered +in business, having become one of the most substantial men of the city. +Most of the successful men of Homs owe their prosperity to business +conducted in Egypt. They spend the winters in Egypt, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>advancing money to +the peasants on their cotton crops and also furnishing them certain +classes of imported goods on credit. It has been a profitable business, +even to those who have not been led away by the temptation of avarice to +impose on the simplicity of the Egyptian peasant. On one occasion I was +talking to Mr. Nasser about the high standards of morality obligatory on +the true Christian merchant. He then told me the following incident in +the simplest manner. As a young man he started with his cousin on a very +small capital. They invested their cash capital in stock for their +little store, purchasing so far as they could on credit. Mr. Nasser +returned to Homs, leaving his cousin in charge of the business in Egypt. +Scarcely had he reached home when word came of the complete destruction +of their store and all its contents by fire. It was a heavy blow for the +young men, and the first impulse was to go through bankruptcy, settle up +as well as they could and give<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> up the enterprise. Friends and creditors +came to their help and volunteered to scale down their claims and +furnish new capital for the two men to start again. They were prospered +from the beginning. After some years Mr. Rafool Nasser decided that he +was unwilling to have the friends who were so kind to him suffer from +the old loss. He wrote to his cousin, saying that he had no wish to +control his partner's action, but asking him to pay off his share of +those old losses carried by their friends after the fire, and charge the +amount against his personal account. The cousin wrote back, "Whatever +you do, I shall do also." In the light of this incident, will anyone say +that commercial honor is confined to the West?</p> + +<p>There was a long period of hesitation, after Mr. Nasser was convinced +intellectually of the truth of the evangelical faith, before he joined +the Church. He has explained this to me in the following way: He knew +that if he gave in his adherence<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> to the Protestant doctrine, his +conscience would require him to give far more of his possessions than he +had been accustomed to do in the Greek church. It took a long time to +bring his will to yield. In fact, his head was reached before his purse +was opened. He gave up the conflict at last and then said, in closing +the account of his experience, "I've gotten way beyond that now, for I +have learned the joy of giving." He is not a millionaire, but the Lord +has blessed him with considerable property, and he recognizes his +position as that of steward. He has been the leading spirit in the +enterprises of the Homs church, spoken of in another place.</p> + +<p>About the end of the year 1895, I was sitting one evening in my study +when the bell rang, and one of my neighbors, Mr. Yusuf Faris, entered. +He laid on my desk a bundle of Turkish silver dollars, amounting to some +thirty dollars American money. He said he had been looking over his +accounts for the year and found this balance<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> in his tithe account, and +so he wished me to use it for him in a way that he indicated, in the +furtherance of the Lord's business. This was a little matter, but it was +a true index to the man. A few years previous to this he had moved to +the city from a neighboring village. Among his motives for this move was +to avoid being forced into a political position he felt to be +inconsistent with his new position as a Protestant Christian. He decided +to open a dry-goods store in the city, but was unwilling to conduct +business in the ordinary way of the country. He rented a very small shop +and brought his stock of goods from Beirut. He decided upon a fair +profit, and set his price on the goods. People were not accustomed to +this method and so were slow to buy from the new shop. When they found +him unvarying in his prices, they went away to buy elsewhere, getting, +perhaps, an inferior article at a slightly lower price. Mr. Faris had +his full share of determination and was not to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> be turned back from the +course upon which he had decided. He had an unfailingly pleasant manner +with everyone, and showed no resentment at those who bought elsewhere. +For months the sales in this little shop were not enough to pay the +rent, but there was no change of policy. Gradually people began to +compare more carefully and discovered that in no case were they able to +buy the same quality of goods elsewhere for less than Mr. Faris' first +price. They began to realize that it was a distinct saving of time and +temper to avoid the long haggling over prices to which they had been +accustomed. By degrees they began to buy from Mr. Faris, and it was not +long before some of the country shopkeepers would come to him with a +list of goods and ask to have them put up without even asking the +prices. Business grew, a larger shop was necessary, two shops, three +shops, until at present his goods fill three large storerooms, while a +fourth is necessary for his office and bookkeeping.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> Two months seldom +pass, and often less than a month, between trips to Beirut for fresh +goods, and he and his three grown sons are kept busy handling the +undertaking.</p> + +<p>In every good enterprise, in Tripoli, or in presbytery, Mr. Yusuf Faris +is a leader, with clear advice and generous subscriptions. When the home +mission work of the presbytery was organized, he was one of the leaders, +and has continued to be the main support of the work. When the plans for +the Tripoli Boys' School were under consideration and there was some +danger that lack of money and other considerations might necessitate the +removal of the school from Tripoli, Mr. Faris and his sons came forward +with a generous offer of financial help, during a period of years +aggregating nearly eighteen hundred dollars. This made him the third +largest individual donor and we were glad to place his picture among +those on the wall of the school reception room. In all<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> the intercourse +of these years, while watching the growth and development of character +in this man, there has grown in my own heart a strength of personal +attachment such as I have seldom felt for any other in America or in Syria.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XIV</span></span> <span class="smaller">TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL</span></h2> + +<p>The one enterprise which stands out most conspicuously in our life in +Syria and which has absorbed more of our thought and activity than any +other, is the boarding school for boys in Tripoli. In the earlier years +of our work in Tripoli field, I found an important item to be the +selection of promising candidates from the pupils in the village schools +for further education in one of the mission boarding schools. We were +anxious to encourage the higher education of boys, for in this respect +as in many others, north Syria is more backward than other parts of the +country. Means of communication were poor and it was not an easy thing +for people to send their children to a distance of four or five days' +travel. We used<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> every means at our disposal to persuade reluctant +parents, offering free tuition and sometimes traveling expenses and help +with clothing. By all these means we could gather, from the whole +territory, a dozen, or fifteen, or, at most, twenty boys, whose parents +were willing to send them to school.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i173a.jpg" id="i173a.jpg"></a><img src="images/i173a.jpg" alt="TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL First Home" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL</p> + +<p class="right"><i>First Home</i></p></div> + +<div class="center"><a name="i173b.jpg" id="i173b.jpg"></a><img src="images/i173b.jpg" alt="TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL Second Home" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Second Home</i></p></div> + +<p>But emigration to America gradually opened the eyes of the people to the +commercial advantages of education. Ignorant parents who had gone abroad +began to send back money, with urgent instructions to put their boys in +the American schools. We found the number of applicants increasing and a +new willingness to pay, in part at least, for the education. Instead of +a dozen, we had sixty or more to provide for and the tide was rising. +Conditions were the same elsewhere and it was not easy for the other +schools to receive this larger number from our district. Why, then, +should our boys go so far from home?</p> + +<p>The eagerness of some of these lads to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> gain an education went to our +hearts, and the hardest thing we had to do was to refuse an earnest +pleader for whom we had no place left. One day in Homs a young man came +to me, pleading for a place in Sidon. He was making his own living as an +artisan, and had only a simple education. I wished to test his pluck and +pointed out all the difficulties in the way of one in his circumstances. +He had thought it all out and said he could work at his trade in the +summer vacations and earn enough for his clothing. But it was a five +days' journey to Sidon, and the cost of the journey must be provided for +in some way. There was not a moment's hesitation as he said, "I'll +walk." And he did walk, showing a manly contempt for obstacles in the +way of gaining an education.</p> + +<p>This growing demand for an education such as our American schools give, +with the increasing ability of many to pay the cost, seemed a clear call +for action. Our<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> mission had been criticized for putting too much energy +and money into education, so it seemed a chance at the same time to take +a step in advance in the line of self-support. I did not wish to go +before the mission with my proposition until I had it well supported. +For this reason I wrote to Mr. George D. Dayton who has supported us +through all our missionary life, and laid the matter before him, making +two distinct requests. If such a school were to be a success, it must +have its own permanent premises, especially adapted to its use, and I +asked whether he would help us to secure this for the school. It did not +seem wise to wait however for the accomplishment of this purpose to open +the school. I was confident, myself, that the school could be made +self-supporting if the premises were provided, but I wished a guarantee +to lay before the mission, and so asked Mr. Dayton to underwrite the +enterprise to the extent of three hundred dollars a year, in case of a +deficit. He <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>responded promptly, acceding to both requests. I was ready +then to go before the mission. Our proposition called for two things +from the Board, the addition of a missionary to our Tripoli station and +provision of rent for premises in which to open the school temporarily. +Both requests were granted and we were authorized to go ahead, even +before receiving our additional missionary.</p> + +<p>Ten years after opening the school, owing to removals and delay for +language study, the whole work of the station, with the addition of the +school, still rests on the shoulders of two men, who live in hope of +having their new associate, promised ten years ago. It has been like the +pursuit of a mirage or the fatuous end of the rainbow. More than once we +have given a sigh of satisfaction and said, "Well, next year, or at +latest, the year after, we shall be able to settle down to normal lines +and really do our work right." An emergency has always arisen somewhere, +our pleasant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> dreams have faded away, and we have settled down again to +try to carry the extra load; but each time this is done, the weight +seems to press more heavily and a sense of discouragement steals into +the tired heart.</p> + +<p>We were ready to begin school in 1903 and had laid in some supplies for +the coming year, when cholera appeared in the land, interfering with all +lines of travel and communication. It was decided to postpone the +opening until the next year and special plans for temporary work were +made for the various teachers. In October 1904 the Tripoli Boys' School +opened its doors, and there was every indication of hearty support. We +had planned to begin on a very small scale with only twenty boarders. We +had rented a house in which the boys were to sleep and study, the +kitchen and dining room being in the basement. Before the day of opening +we had thirty-two insistent applicants and wanted very much to receive +them all. Rooms were rented across the street for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> study and recitation +purposes, releasing for a dormitory the large room before assigned to +study. This, with extra crowding of the beds, made room, and the whole +number were admitted. The beds were very crude, being merely boards laid +across rude iron supports. Everything was as simple as possible.</p> + +<p>We were all inexperienced in school administration and had about as much +to learn as did the boys, but that first year was a year of real +delight. The school was small and the family feeling was encouraged in +every way. Every Sunday evening the boys came to our home for a social +sing, and we learned that the neighbors looked forward to the enjoyment +of the volume of boyish voices that rang out on the evening air. In the +middle of the year it was possible to transfer the school to much more +commodious quarters, where all school and household functions could be +under one roof. The most satisfactory feature, perhaps, was the +financial outcome.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> When the books were closed, at the end of the year, +there was no deficit to be provided for, and so our highest +anticipations seemed to be justified. This has continued to be the +normal record of the school, the current income providing for the +current expense, excepting the item of rent. The second year we were +able to start in with American desks, and iron beds in the dormitories, +and had an enrollment of sixty pupils.</p> + +<p>A detailed history of the school would make this chapter too long, but +its growth and success have meant a great deal to us in our missionary +life. In 1909, when we returned from our second furlough, we had a +sufficient building fund to justify definite plans for the permanent +home of the school. It was not easy to decide on the best location. +Every place suggested had advantages and disadvantages. We could not +visit any locality in the most casual way without very largely +increasing the value of land in the vicinity. We looked<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> at land near +the sea, in the gardens, on each side of the city, but gradually all +minds turned to an olive orchard on the brow of the hill just north of +the city. It might not be possible to purchase it, but we all agreed +that it was the place we wanted, if it could be obtained. Inquiry +revealed the fact that this piece of property belonged to a family of +brothers and sisters who held it as joint heritage from their father. +One of the brothers got the whole into his possession, excepting the +share of one sister, whose claim was something less than one-twelfth. +Her husband was an avaricious fellow who thought he could hold us up for +whatever he might demand. We purchased the remainder of the property, +but could do nothing toward building until our partner's share should be +set off and a legal division made. We proposed every possible division +but nothing was acceptable. We tried the courts and found it almost as +hopeless as Dickens' picture of chancery. Finally an amicable<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> +adjudication and division out of court was arranged by common friends. +We went to the hill with professional measurers and proceeded to lay off +our partner's portion. When he was convinced that we would prefer to +give him at the north end, he promptly announced that he would take the +south part, which was after all much to our advantage. Then the boundary +was laid out very exactly, giving him his full share. After the peg had +been carefully set, his son petulantly moved it a foot or more farther +on our side, evidently intending to irritate us into a refusal of the +division. We consented, however, the division wall was erected, the +legal papers drawn up and our property was secured.</p> + +<p>The next step was to obtain a building permit from the government. Every +official is suspicious of every other, and each is watching for a chance +to enter a complaint against the other. From one office we went to +another, with favorable reports from the city engineer, but nothing was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> +accomplished. There seemed to be no valid objection anywhere, and we +were assured that the permit would be sent back as soon as our petition +reached Constantinople. After long waiting, instead of the permit there +came back another series of inquiries on points already fully explained. +Preliminary work on cisterns, foundations and preparation of stone was +in full progress, but the winter passed and no permit was received. At +last a new governor came to Tripoli who for some reason took a personal +interest in bringing the matter to a conclusion. He sent vigorous +letters and telegrams to Constantinople and in due time the permit was +issued, and at the end of May 1912, work was begun on the building +proper. Every means was used to push work forward as fast as possible, +through the summer and fall, so as to have the roof on before the rains +came. The walls were completed, the roof timbers in place, but where +were the tiles? These had been ordered long in advance, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> were known +to be on the way. Just at this unfortunate moment war between Turkey and +Greece was declared and it appeared that our tiles were coming in a +Greek steamer, which could not now approach a Turkish port. The fall +rains came down on our roofless building and it was not until January +that the tiles were received. When they arrived, there was great +rejoicing. The workmen all left their tools to help unload the wagons. +The schoolboys went up on the hill and, forming lines from the ground to +the roof of the building, passed up the tiles from hand to hand with +shouts and songs of joy. No damage had been done the building, since the +rains tended to set the stone walls and cement flooring more perfectly, +but the plastering and carpenter work for the interior were delayed, and +the precious rain water for the cisterns was lost.</p> + +<p>After the roof was finished, work progressed rapidly and the utility and +beauty of the building developed every day more<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> and more clearly. When +Easter vacation came everything was ready, and in the absence of the +boys, the school furniture was moved up to the new building so that all +was in good order when vacation was over. The new term opened in the new +home.</p> + +<p>On May 21, 1913, the day was given over to the dedication of the new +building, and a happier day than that has not come in the history of the +school. In the forenoon, there were races and athletic sports, with a +football game on the playground behind the building. In the afternoon, +hosts of friends and neighbors inspected the building and grounds, and +at four o'clock the Assembly Hall was crowded with the pupils and their +friends. On the platform sat the governor and president of the +municipality, with the missionaries and teachers. The boys sang heartily +their songs of welcome and a special dedication hymn written for the +occasion from the text, "Except Jehovah build the house, they labor in +vain that build it." Their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> voices rang out especially as their +handkerchiefs waved in their own school song in honor of T. B. S.</p> + +<p>This building is rich in significance, for it is a memorial throughout. +The main fund was raised in honor of my father, and so the building is +to be known as the Henry A. Nelson Memorial. Smaller sums were given as +special memorials to relatives of the givers, and the bell in the tower +was given by parents of a young man, their only son, who was called to +the heavenly home just before his twenty-first birthday. Those parents +have the comfort of feeling that their son's voice is still calling in +the tones of that bell to the lads of Syria, and so still serving the +Master.</p> + +<p>Our rejoicing in the new building was great, but not complete. With all +our efforts it was not possible to finish the top story of the building, +and the friends of the school will have plenty of opportunity to help us +improve and increase our facilities in the service of the youth of north Syria.</p> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XV</span></span> <span class="smaller">MOVING</span></h2> + +<p>In 1910 the Syria mission decided upon an advance. The constitution had +been declared in Turkey and everyone hoped that a new era had really +begun for the people of the empire. Whatever might be the political +results, there were clear signs of industrial improvement. The German +railroad was being pushed toward Bagdad. Work was progressing rapidly on +the line from Tripoli to Homs. There could be but little doubt that the +importance of Homs as a commercial center would be greatly enhanced in +the near future. The strong evangelical community had been urgent for +years that a missionary family live in Homs. This was finally decided +upon and the choice of the mission fell on us. There are very few houses +for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> rent in Homs, and hence it seemed necessary to plan for a +missionary residence as soon as possible. An appropriation was made from +the Kennedy bequest for this purpose, and a piece of land was acquired +from the management of the Syrian Evangelical Boarding School.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i189a.jpg" id="i189a.jpg"></a><img src="images/i189a.jpg" alt="HOMS" /></div> + +<p class="bold">HOMS</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i189b.jpg" id="i189b.jpg"></a><img src="images/i189b.jpg" alt="HEATHEN TEMPLE AND MOUNT HERMON" /></div> + +<p class="bold">HEATHEN TEMPLE AND MOUNT HERMON</p> + +<p>Moving in Syria is a different proposition from what it is in America. +There are no professional packers. The missionary must do his own +packing, if he would avoid excessive breakage. He must keep an eye on +the porters as they put his goods in the wagons. He must oversee the +freight men as they stow away the goods in the cars. At the Homs end of +the line every piece had to be carried to its destination on the back of +a donkey or a mule. It was no easy matter to balance some of the large +boxes on the insecure saddles, but it was all accomplished with time and +patience, with very little injury.</p> + +<p>We secured a little house in the city for six months, which could be +occupied while<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> the new house was in process of erection. It was a +curious little place but the owner was very proud of it. There was a +minaret directly across the narrow street, so we had the call to prayer +almost over our heads five times a day. The section of the city was +known as the Grass Market, because it was occupied largely by +greengrocers. We were awakened early every morning by the merchants +calling their wares and all day long could hear cries like this: "Oh, +plums, O generous one, a penny a pound: health and strength come from +God, Oh, plums, Oh, plums." The woodwork and windows of this little +house were so poorly constructed that it was impossible to keep anything +clean. The strong wind, which gathered up straw and dirt, seemed to +discharge its load all day long in the various rooms of that little +house.</p> + +<p>In October the new mission house was ready for occupancy and we gladly +made the transfer to this permanent home. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> city of Homs is perfectly +flat and quite compact. The streets are narrow and crooked, the houses +low, usually but one story high. The better houses are built of black +volcanic stone and the poorer houses of sun-dried brick. As a rule the +street wall is a dead blank surface, with merely a doorway admitting to +the inclosed courtyard. All this gives the city a dull, depressing +appearance. The old city was surrounded by a wall and a deep moat, and +at the south side, on a high hill, was the ancient castle faced with +black stone. This castle has been a complete ruin for over seventy years +and the city has outgrown its walls and spread across the moat.</p> + +<p>The Evangelical School and the American mission house lie to the south +of the castle hill, on a rise of ground among the vineyards. Many houses +are being built near us, but we are still the vanguard to the south. +Directly opposite to us on the north side of the city is the great +mosque<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> of Sayid Khalid, said to have cost sixteen thousand pounds. It +is a beautiful building, but recently completed. Between us and it lies +the old city, with its seventy thousand plain people. At present a vast +majority of the population look to the north rather than to the south, +but it is our strong hope that the more vital strength represented by +Christian education and Christian homes will win the victory over this +great city and the surrounding country, so that all shall be won for +Christ.</p> + +<div class="center"><a name="i196a.jpg" id="i196a.jpg"></a><img src="images/i196a.jpg" alt="HAMIDIYEH MOSQUE Tripoli" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">HAMIDIYEH MOSQUE</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Tripoli</i></p></div> + +<div class="center"><a name="i196b.jpg" id="i196b.jpg"></a><img src="images/i196b.jpg" alt="OLD CITY GATE Tripoli" /></div> + +<div class="box"> +<p class="bold">OLD CITY GATE</p> + +<p class="right"><i>Tripoli</i></p></div> + +<hr /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p> + +<h2><span><span class="smcap">Chapter XVI</span></span> <span class="smaller">THE MUEZZIN OR THE BELL</span></h2> + +<p>As the close of this little record comes near, there appears before me a +contrast or a conflict. Shall Syria continue, as in the past, dominated +by the minaret and all it signifies, or shall the church bell be heard +more clearly and more truly than it has been in the past?</p> + +<p>Many years ago, in the city of Homs, the large and influential Orthodox +Greek community wished to put up a bell in their church. This was found +to be wholly impossible because of the unyielding bigotry and hostility +of the Moslem community and the government. Finally the bishop consented +to hang up a slab of hard, thoroughly seasoned wood, and this was struck +with a mallet at the time of worship, to call the people together. After +quite a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span> long interval, when the controversy was largely forgotten, this +wooden slab was quietly exchanged for one of steel, and a clearer sound +was obtained. This created a little disturbance, but was quickly +accepted as an accomplished fact, for it is a common saying in Turkey: +"Whatever is done is permitted. Whatever is requested is forbidden." +After another long interval a large bell was sent from Russia for this +Homs Church of the Forty Martyrs. In view of the relations of Turkey to +Russia, no open opposition could be shown, and the bell was brought with +great demonstrations of joy and put in its place where it rings to call +the people to worship. Following the lead of this strongest of the +Christian communities, all the others have brought bells since, and they +are in regular use. But the near city of Hamath waited some years longer +before hearing its first regular church bell.</p> + +<p>Many years ago an old sheik in Tripoli was calling on me. He was +intelligent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> and friendly and I felt that I could speak with him +somewhat freely. When I said to him that the voice of the muezzin in the +neighboring mosque was not so clear as it might be, he told me the +following incident in his father's life: The French consul in Tripoli +lived near a mosque. The muezzin had a musical voice, and the consul +enjoyed hearing the call to prayer in the summer evenings. For some +reason this man was removed and another put in his place, whose voice +was harsh and unpleasant. A few days later the consul arrayed himself in +official style, and with the attendance of his cavasses in full regalia, +he went to call on the old sheik, the father of my informant. It was not +a feast day nor time for official calls, so his coming in this manner +created some astonishment and a little uneasiness. After the ordinary +salutations had been exchanged, the consul addressed the sheik in formal +manner, to this effect: "I have come to-day, officially to convey to +you<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> my own personal thanks and that of the government I represent for +the great favor you have done me." The sheik was even more astonished at +this opening, and protested that nothing worthy of such recognition had +been done. "Yes," said the consul, "you may not have been aware of the +great kindness done, but it is no less worthy of note. In the mosque +near my house there was a muezzin who gave the daily call to prayer in a +voice that went to the heart of the hearer, and it would not have been +strange if he had won my allegiance to Islam. Now, however, he has been +removed and a man with a harsh, repellant voice put in his place, so +there is no longer any danger that the representative of a Christian +nation should deny his faith and follow Islam. For this reason, I convey +to you officially and personally my most profound thanks." No sooner had +the caller taken his leave than orders were sent to have the +sweet-voiced muezzin restored to his former position in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>vicinity of +the consulate. The keen consul had gained what he wanted and what a +direct request might not have accomplished. No offense was given and all +were pleased.</p> + +<p>After he had told me this story, I said, "Sheik Ali, there are two +things which I grudge to you Mohammedans; one is the custom of summoning +people to divine worship by the call of the human voice rather than by a +metallic bell; and the other is the exclusive use among yourselves of +the salutation, 'Peace be to you.'" When one Moslem meets another, he +salutes him, "Peace be to you," and the other responds, "And on you be +the peace of God." A Moslem will never intentionally give this +salutation to a Christian. I continued, "That salutation belongs to the +Christians more than to you, for it was the farewell message from our +Master to his disciples, when he said, 'Peace I leave with you; my peace +I give unto you.'"</p> + +<p>Which is it to be in Syria? Shall the separation continue, and one large +part of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> the population heed the call to prayer by the human voice from +the minaret, while another part worship the same God in the churches in +answer to the summons of a bell? This unfortunate state of affairs will +never cease until the heart of the Christian Church is so full of the +love of Christ and his perfect peace that the Moslem population shall +hear through them a louder cry than the voice of the muezzin, calling +them to worship the one living God, and to know him through the perfect +life of his only Son, our Lord. "Come unto me, all ye that labor and are +heavy laden, and I will give you rest."</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Silver Chimes in Syria, by W. S. 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S. Nelson + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Silver Chimes in Syria + Glimpses of a Missionary's Experiences + +Author: W. S. Nelson + +Release Date: November 7, 2013 [EBook #44122] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA *** + + + + +Produced by Martin Pettit and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive) + + + + + + +SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA + + +[Illustration: HENRY A. NELSON MEMORIAL + +_Tripoli Boys' School_] + + + + +SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA + +GLIMPSES OF A MISSIONARY'S EXPERIENCES + +BY +W. S. NELSON, D.D., +AUTHOR OF "HABEEB THE BELOVED" + +[Illustration: Logo] + +PHILADELPHIA +THE WESTMINSTER PRESS +1914 + + +COPYRIGHT, 1914 + +BY F. M. BRASELMANN + + + + +DEDICATION + +JULY 17, 1888. CINCINNATI, OHIO. + + _This book is affectionately inscribed to her who has been the + companion of my life for twenty-five years; my helper in all my + work; my cheer and comfort in all circumstances; the maker of my + home; the source of all that is silvery in the chimes that ring + to-day._ + + HOMS, SYRIA, JULY 17, 1913. + + + + +PREFACE + + +When a tourist is seated on the deck of a steamer, waiting to leave the +country in which he has enjoyed an outing, his eyes do not seek the +low-lying shore of the sea, for the memories he would retain hereafter. +He lifts his eyes to the overhanging mountains. Nor is it the whole +massive range that holds his vision. He looks instinctively to the +scattered, lofty summits which stand aloof as it were from the monotony +of the lower range. Especially as the sun sinks below the western +horizon do his eyes dwell lovingly on those highest peaks which are +colored with the light of the setting sun. + +My purpose in sending out this collection of sketches is somewhat the +same. I have not attempted a continuous narrative, with all the monotony +of repeated acts, but have sought to make vivid to the reader some of +the more conspicuous features of missionary life, in the hope of +deepening sympathy with the workers and increasing zeal in the work. +That is my excuse for the free use of the personal pronoun, not to make +prominent the person, but to emphasize the reality. May the volume be +enjoyed by our fellow workers in America, and blessed by Him whom we all +serve. + + + + +CONTENTS + +CHAPTER PAGE + I. ARRIVAL IN SYRIA 3 + + II. LANGUAGE STUDY 14 + + III. TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION 19 + + IV. EVANGELISTIC TRIPS 34 + + V. ALEPPO 53 + + VI. NEW STATIONS AND BUILDINGS 65 + + VII. CAMPING LIFE 75 + +VIII. PERSECUTION 87 + + IX. EMIGRATION 94 + + X. SYRIAN ENTERPRISES 104 + + XI. INTERRUPTIONS 111 + + XII. OUR SUPPORTERS 127 + +XIII. PERSONAL FRIENDS 136 + + XIV. TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL 150 + + XV. MOVING 164 + + XVI. THE MUEZZIN OR THE BELL 169 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS + + PAGE +Henry A. Nelson Memorial--_Tripoli Boys' School_ _Frontispiece_ + +Latakia Boys' School _Facing Page_ 34 + +Tartoose--_Crusaders' Church_ 34 + +Aleppo Minaret 53 + +Hadeth Summer Home 75 + +Abu Maroon, the Hadeth Carpenter 75 + +Homs--_Boys' School_ 104 + +Tripoli Boys' School--_First Home_ 150 + +Tripoli Boys' School--_Second Home_ 150 + +Homs 164 + +Heathen Temple and Mount Hermon 164 + +Hamidiyeh Mosque--_Tripoli_ 169 + +Old City Gate--_Tripoli_ 169 + + + + +SILVER CHIMES IN SYRIA + + + + +CHAPTER I + +ARRIVAL IN SYRIA + + +Every individual makes a new personal discovery, as with the passage of +years, he realizes the difference between the long look forward over a +given period, and the look backward over the same period, when it is +completed. To the new arrival on the field the veteran of twenty-five +years' experience appears to have spent a very long time in the service; +but as he looks back over his own life, at the end of a similar period, +he wonders that he ever entertained such an opinion. Looking back to the +year 1888, the events of that time do not seem at all remote, and it is +hard to realize that to anyone that year can appear a very long way in +the past. + +On the last day of October, in the early morning, a steamer of the +Austrian-Lloyd Line cast anchor in front of Beirut. That was long before +the building of the harbor, and all vessels tossed in the open +roadstead, at the mercy of wind and wave, only slightly sheltered by the +long headland of Ras Beirut, where the tall lighthouse rears its slender +shaft, and where the Syrian Protestant College stands, as a more +important symbol of light-giving. + +The anchor was scarcely dropped before the little boats from the shore +crowded about the ladders and the boatmen came swarming over the sides +of the vessel, to take possession of the passengers and carry them +ashore. It is always a perplexing but interesting scene to the newcomer. +The curious costumes of many colors give an appearance of gayety to the +crowd; the shouting of the guttural Arabic makes one think of Babel; the +wild gesticulating of the excited people suggests the possibility of a +riot; the seizing of baggage and pulling of passengers by eager boatmen +make one think that the day of personal liberty and private property is +passed. As a rule, however, it is all good-natured, and the noise is +more bantering than quarreling. In fact, one soon becomes accustomed to +the turmoil as an indication of lack of orderly proceeding in the +Orient. + +Among the first figures to appear on deck that October morning was one +quieter but no less eager than the Arab boatmen. He quickly made his way +to the room of the new missionaries, just arriving from America, +prepared to take them ashore, and even to escort them at once to his own +home in Sidon. It was a most welcome, homelike experience to the tired +travelers, and the cheery voice and cordial welcome of Mr. W. K. Eddy +will never be forgotten. + +There were many things in the journey, thus ended, that had made it +trying. The young couple had crossed the Atlantic entirely among +strangers and the ocean had not been kind to them. Seasickness is never +a happy experience, and when it becomes a continuous performance, in +connection with a wedding journey, it seems most inappropriate. Pleasant +visits with family friends and relatives in Scotland effaced the +memories of the Atlantic. Visiting new scenes and beautiful places in +Switzerland gave much pleasure by the way, but in an unfortunate day the +germs of malaria had been absorbed and southern Italy was reached with +fever and weakness that made sightseeing a burden. + +Who can forget his first glimpse of the real Orient, at Port Said? The +noise and the dirt; the squalor and the glaring sun; the rush of the +crowd and the utter lonesomeness of the stranger, make a contrast and +mixture that are not easily matched in life's ordinary experiences. Four +days were to pass before a steamer went to Beirut. It was not a pleasant +prospect for travelers homesick and weak from fever to have to tarry +for four days in a dismal hotel, with nothing attractive in the way of +companionship or occupation. Besides this, our trunks had not been sent +forward as promised, and we were obliged to depend upon the limited hand +baggage with which we had crossed the Continent. It is easy to imagine +the sensations with which the young bride looked forward to making her +first appearance among strangers, with a face pale from fever and an +outfit so unexpectedly limited. + +The hearty welcome of Mr. Eddy on the deck of that Austrian steamer in +Beirut harbor was a needed tonic, and his skill and experience readily +passed us through the intricacies of the customhouse and brought us to +the hospitable home of his father. Of the friends who conspired to make +those first days bright, many have been called away to the other shore, +though others are still our associates in the service of Syria. Dr. and +Mrs. W. W. Eddy, with whom we spent our first ten days in Syria, left +us many years ago. Dr. Samuel Jessup was always thoughtful, bringing +bright flowers from his garden to continue the impression of his bright +face and cheery words, when he called upon the strangers. He and Mrs. +Jessup, whose home was one of the brightest spots of those early years, +have also gone on before to their well-earned reward. Mr. March, coming +down from the mountains on his way to Tripoli, was especially ready in +his plans for the comfort of his new associates in Tripoli Station. But +it is not necessary to mention each one. The beauty of missionary life +is the unity of fellowship and the completeness with which every +newcomer is received into the intimacy and love of the circle, which is +only less close and intimate than that of the family itself. + +After ten days spent in Beirut in trying to get rid of the malaria and +in acquiring some knowledge of the Arabic alphabet, we went on to +Tripoli, our future home. It was a cold, windy Saturday afternoon. We +were taken out to the steamer in a small boat, which tossed on the +restless waves in a way which we supposed to be normal. The steamer was +small and crowded with a miscellaneous company, most of whom were not +happy, to say the least. Fortunately it is only a four hours' ride, for +the wind increased in violence as we proceeded, and when the anchor was +dropped at sundown off Tripoli, it seemed doubtful whether any boats +could come out to meet us. In due time, however, a boat pulled +alongside, and there was Mr. March, who had come out over that rough sea +to welcome us to our new home, though he did not think we would venture +to start from Beirut in such a storm. The steamer was rolling so badly +that the ladder could not be lowered at all, and we crept out on it as +it lay horizontally along the ship's side, and then, when the tip was +lowest, simply dropped into the arms of the boatmen below. Then began +the laborious pull for the shore. We were two hours reaching land, our +clothes soaked, our spirits at zero, but most happy to reach the warm, +cozy haven of the March home in the Mina of Tripoli. It was the +beginning of a most beautiful fellowship with Mr. and Mrs. March and +their children, whose sweet introduction of themselves won our hearts at +once and who, though now grown to maturity, still call us by the old, +affectionate titles of uncle and aunt. Thus, for the second time in our +short missionary experience, we were made to feel the comfort and peace +of being taken into the warmth and love of a Christian home, no longer +as strangers, but as brethren. + +We wished to take possession of our own home as soon as possible. Our +household goods were in the customhouse, and another first experience +was before us. Everything had to be examined and its purpose explained +to the satisfaction of the Turkish inspector. To him it seemed a wholly +unnecessary amount of furniture for one person, for of course he could +not recognize that the wife's existence made any difference. A box of +class photographs was examined in detail, and great surprise manifested +that one person should have so many friends. A small vase for flowers in +the shape of a kettle resting on five legs puzzled the examiner, until +he picked up the perforated piece of a soap dish, and decided that he +had found the appropriate adaptation of the two pieces. It did not seem +necessary to explain, so long as he was satisfied, and no harm was done. + +We had many things to learn besides the language. Our home belonged to a +man whose name was translated to us as Mr. Victory-of-God Brass. In an +arch under the parlor windows he had hung a donkey's skull and some +beads, to keep off the evil eye of jealousy from his fine house. It was +a pleasant house, well located near the city gate which had been known +in former days as Donkey Gate, only a few minutes' walk from the girls' +school and just at the end of the tram line connecting the city with +the harbor, two miles distant. In planning for our new home we had +indulged in the luxury of two pairs of simple lace curtains for our +parlor windows. When we entered the house, our amazement can hardly be +exaggerated at the discovery that the parlor had not two but eight +windows, each calling for curtains twelve feet long. Our lace curtains +were relegated to service elsewhere. Mr. Eddy had kindly arranged to +come up from Sidon to help us in this first settling of our new home, +and his help and companionship were invaluable. He went with me to the +shops to purchase such things as were needed, and the shopkeepers +recognized at once his fluent Arabic and his companion's ignorance of +the language. More than one shopkeeper called him aside and asked him to +bring the stranger to them for his purchases, promising him a handsome +commission for his services. + +The house was soon made habitable and just three weeks after our first +landing in Syria we slept under our own roof, with our own possessions +about us, and were ready to begin our own independent home life in the +land of our adoption. We had made our beginning, and a bright, happy +beginning it was, notwithstanding the difficulties and drawbacks +inevitable in such conditions. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +LANGUAGE STUDY + + +Whatever differences there may be in experiences in missionary life, all +missionaries are faced with a most troublesome experience in learning a +new language. It is more or less natural for everyone to magnify what +concerns himself. "Our children" are always a little better than our +neighbors'. "Our cook" makes better bread than anyone else. And +"mother's pies"--well, that calls for no argument. It is much the same +way among missionaries. It is probable that there are just about as many +"hardest languages" in the world as there are distinct mission fields. +But, then, there must be one that is really the hardest, and we in Syria +think we come pretty well up on the list, even though we do not claim +absolute preeminence. The Arabic, though rich and beautiful, is +certainly a difficult language, and I am sure the Syria Mission would +give a unanimous vote on the resolution that it is the toughest +linguistic proposition we have ever attacked. It was one of the terse +and suggestive remarks of Dr. Henry Jessup that at the end of the first +year the new missionary thought he knew the Arabic; at the end of the +second year he thought he knew nothing; and at the end of the third year +he wondered how he got hold of it. + +The isolation of a new missionary is at times appalling. No matter how +kind and helpful the older missionaries may be, they are strangers, +after all, with whom one must get acquainted. The houses are strange, +and not adapted to make one feel at home readily. Servants with their +very imperfect knowledge of English must be directed mainly by signs. +Everything seems unbearably dirty; the sun is unaccountably hot, even in +winter; the food is strange and does not appeal to a Westerner's +appetite. But, worst of all, among the babel of noises, there is not a +familiar sound, and with the best intentions of friendliness, one cannot +reveal the intention, except by the perpetual, inane grin. + +We began the study of the language, as everyone does, almost at the +wharf. Even before recovering from the effects of the voyage, the Arabic +primer, with its alphabet, was brought to the bedside. At one of the +earliest lessons in Tripoli, the old, gray-bearded teacher wished to +impress a new word, "Milh." He repeated the difficult combination, and +then inquired in some way whether we knew what the word meant. The look +of blank ignorance on our faces gave him the answer, and he rose and +stepped with dignity, in his flowing robes, to the door. Opening this, +he called in a loud voice across the open court to the cook, "Peter, +bring me some salt." Then with a little of this household necessity in +his palm, he came back to his stupid pupils, and, pointing at the salt, +said emphatically, "Milh." That word was permanently fixed in our +vocabulary. + +In less than two months after our arrival in Syria, and forty days after +taking possession of our own home, came New Year's Day. With the +self-confidence of youth and ignorance, we decided to keep open house on +our own account. In the forenoon we had our language teacher with us to +steer us through the intricacies of oriental etiquette, and to tell us +what to say, in the varying circumstances, and all went well. After +dinner, however, we excused him, as we did not expect many more calls, +and waited our fate. After a time, when the parlor was well filled with +a mixed company of men and women, among whom was the old teacher who had +taught us the word for salt, I used the wrong pronominal termination, +probably the masculine where I should have used the feminine. The old +gentleman rose from his place with great impressiveness and started +round the entire circle, pointing his finger at each person, and +pronouncing distinctly to every man, "tak" and to every woman, "tik." It +created a laugh, of course, but it is needless to say that whatever +mistakes I have made in Arabic since, it has never been because I did +not know the difference between the masculine and feminine form of the +second person pronominal affix. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +TRAVEL AND COMMUNICATION + + +In preparing for the active service of a missionary, it was necessary to +have a horse and a touring outfit. Our servant was told that we wanted +to buy a horse, and if he heard of any good chance, to let us know. In a +few days a man came to the house with a large gray mare for me to try. I +rode on her a little and examined her so far as I was capable of doing, +and was greatly pleased with her. I knew enough, however, of oriental +methods, to show no particular zeal over the matter, and left the owner +without any indication of my pleasure. In my own mind, I decided that I +should like to own that mare, and that I would be willing to pay as much +as twenty pounds for her, though I hoped to secure a horse for half that +amount. As I came in I told the servant to make inquiry about the price +of the mare. He returned soon, saying the owner would sacrifice his own +interests so far as to let me have her for seventy-five pounds. I did +not buy that mare, but waited several months until I found a sturdy gray +horse, which I bought for less than ten pounds. He served me well for +five years, when I sold him for little less than the original cost. + +Tripoli field was rejoicing and congratulating itself in those days over +the macadamized road recently opened between Tripoli at the coast and +Homs and Hamath in the interior. It was sixty-five miles to Homs and +thirty-five more to Hamath. A cumbersome diligence made the trip to Homs +in eleven hours, going one day and returning the next, and a lighter +vehicle made the round trip between Homs and Hamath every day. This was +a great advance in rapid transit and a great convenience in all lines of +work. + +In all Syria there was not a mile of railroad, and in northern Syria +there was no carriage road besides the one line just mentioned. All +traveling had to be done on horseback or afoot. Horses, donkeys, mules +and camels were the universal means of travel and transportation. Every +day caravans of camels came into Tripoli by the hundred, bringing grain, +olive oil and Syrian butter from the interior. They returned loaded with +sugar, rice, kerosene oil, and English yarn and cloth. The first +railroad was built in the early nineties from Jaffa to Jerusalem. Later +came the line from Beirut to Damascus; then the line from Haifa through +Galilee to Damascus, the line from Damascus to the south, and the line +from Damascus to Medina. Then came the branch line, from the +Beirut-Damascus line, to Homs, Hamath and Aleppo, and finally the +Tripoli Homs line and the German Bagdad line, passing through Aleppo +from east to west. With many other lines and extensions under +consideration, it is evident that railroad communication is fairly +started in Syria and that this part of the East has begun to feel the +influence of steam. + +During our first year in Tripoli, before I was at all familiar with the +various places, I overheard a conversation between two of our associates +about a recent trip to Beirut by land. The remark was made, "I suppose +you took a carriage from Junieh to Beirut." This is about one fourth of +the distance and was considered a great gain in the facilities of +transportation. The answer came, with even greater evidence of +satisfaction, "No, I rode in a carriage from Jebail." This meant a +doubling of the advantage, as Jebail is halfway between Tripoli and +Beirut. That was in 1889 and it was not until 1912 that this carriage +road was completed, so that one could make the whole distance on wheels. + +The tramway connecting Tripoli City and the Mina, or harbor, was the +only tramway in Syria and was an object of great pride. It had a single +track about two miles long, with a switch in the middle for the passing +of cars from the opposite ends. A car started from each terminus about +once in twenty minutes and made the trip in about the same length of +time, the fare being four cents and the motor power horses or mules. The +cars were originally imported from Birmingham, of the double-decker +type. They are still in daily service, receiving a fresh coat of paint +and necessary repairs every year. This line continues to run, though +with somewhat more frequent service and with a reduced fare of two +cents, since public carriages now run on a road alongside the tram. +Carriage roads now extend in several directions from Tripoli, and there +are many public carriages to hire; even an automobile is occasionally +seen and several bicycles have made their appearance. + +The postal system is a curiosity to those who are accustomed to free +delivery several times a day. It would be supposed that the Turkish +post would carry all letters for people in Turkey, since Turkey is a +member of the International Postal Union. At all the seaports, however, +one finds foreign post offices, which do a large business in receiving +and forwarding mail by all the steamers. To points in the interior they +cannot deliver mail. In Tripoli we had the French, and later the +Austrian service. In 1890 cholera appeared in Tripoli and all steamers +stopped calling at the port, to avoid quarantine. We were confined to +the use of the Turkish mail. Two messengers brought the mail by land +from Beirut each week. It was Tripoli which was infected with cholera, +and yet the incoming mail was stopped outside the city and drenched with +carbolic acid, while the outgoing mail was not touched. The mail +distributor in Tripoli could not read any language, not even Arabic, and +so he used to bring the bag directly to our house and empty it on the +floor, in order to get my help in assorting the letters for him. We were +glad to have the first pick of the mail, as it assured our receiving +all our own mail, and that promptly. + +At the last conference of the International Postal Union there was a +general reduction of postage and an increase in the unit of weight. +Turkey has given her adherence to this international arrangement, but +maintains her old internal rates so that we have the present absurd +condition, that a piaster stamp will carry twenty grams to any place +abroad, while it will carry only fifteen grams from one town to its next +neighbor. Additional weight abroad requires three quarters of a piaster +for each additional twenty grams, while for internal use every +additional fifteen grams requires a full piaster. Thus a letter weighing +sixty grams will go from an interior town like Homs to San Francisco for +two piasters and a half, while the same letter, if sent from Homs to +Tripoli, would cost four piasters. + +It might be supposed that there would be good caravan roads, at least, +in a country where all produce must be carried on quadrupeds, and all +travelers must ride or walk. The reverse was true, and though the past +twenty-five years have witnessed great improvement in this respect, +there is still much to be desired in most localities. Many of the roads +cannot be described as anything but trails through the rocky ground. The +chief consideration in locating a road seems to be to have it run +through ground which is fit for nothing else, for it would be a pity to +waste arable ground, and so a road must go around, no matter what the +distance. Whatever stones are gathered from the fields are thrown into +the highway, making it rougher than ever. In some parts of the +mountains, the road will lie along the top of a solid stone dike, ten to +fifteen feet wide, from which the traveler looks down to a depth of +eight or ten feet upon the fields and mulberry patches on each side. It +has been said that a road, in Syria, is that part of the country to be +avoided in traveling, so far as possible. This inference is easy to +understand when you notice that all the trodden paths are in the fields +at either side, and that people travel in the rough roads, only when +there is no escape. While the grain is growing the farmers will do their +best, by building up stone walls, to keep the animals out of their +fields, but just as soon as the harvest is gathered these obstructions +go down and the current of traffic resumes the easier course until the +winter rains make the mud a worse enemy than the rough stones. + +In other places it is often an interesting study to try to decide +whether the water flows in the road, or whether people travel in the +watercourses. It is something like the insolvable question as to which +came first, the hen or the egg. The fact remains that, as a rule, in wet +weather and rough country, the traveler will find his horse splashing +through a stream of water flowing down the road. The explanation is +simple. There is nowhere any system of drainage, and every man's +purpose is to turn the streams of rain water away from his own land. +Useful land cannot be wasted for watercourses any more than for roads, +and hence the waste lands are devoted to the double purpose, with the +resulting confusion as to which is the intruder. + +The obscurity of the roads leads to many more or less unpleasant +experiences. There are roads so steep and difficult that it is no +unusual experience to see a muleteer take hold of his mule's tail as he +goes down the mountain path, and by a judicious holding back, help the +animal to steady himself under a heavy, awkward load. On the other hand, +when he is going up the mountain, the tired muleteer will take hold of +the same convenient handle to get a little help for himself in the +ascent. + +One summer night, Mrs. Nelson and I were belated on the higher slopes of +Mount Lebanon. The trail was little more than a path for goats, and was +quite unfamiliar to us. In the dark night, we lost the way more than +once, and we were becoming quite exhausted in repeated efforts to regain +the path, when, at last, we seemed to have strayed completely, and I +could not locate the road at all. We had to take a little rest, and wait +for the moon to rise. We sat upon the mountain side, under the shade of +fragrant cedars, tired, hungry and thirsty. The surroundings were +charming and the dim outlines of forest and mountain beautiful. The +night air was refreshing, after an exceptionally hot day; but when one +has lost his way, he is not in a condition to appreciate fully the +beauties of nature or the charms of his surroundings. As we sat there, +gaining some rest, I began to study the outline of the hills, and +concluded that the road must lie in a certain curve of the mountains not +far away. On investigating I found my impression correct, and we resumed +our journey, reaching our destination just as the moon appeared over the +highest ridge of the mountains. + +On another occasion it was the intelligence of my horse rather than my +own which saved me considerable inconvenience. I was belated upon the +mountain and overtaken by sunset, some eight miles from my destination. +Confident in my horse as well as in myself, I pushed on as rapidly as +possible over the rough path. To add to my difficulty, a thick mountain +fog settled about me until it was impossible to see the path ten feet +ahead. In descending a steep slope, leading my horse, I missed the trail +and found myself in the vineyards. I knew that the village was close at +hand and anticipated no difficulty in working down to the road. At any +rate, it seemed likely that we should arouse the night watchman in the +vineyard and it would be his duty to turn us out of the vineyard, +exactly what we wished for. We stumbled along, over grapevines and +stones, but came no nearer to the road, nor did we disturb the sleeping +watchman. After what seemed like endless wandering, though the distance +was not far nor the time long, I came up against a stone wall and could +see a path beyond. Getting over this wall was simple, but which way to +turn in the road was not clear. I tried the turn to the right, +tentatively, not fully convinced myself. My horse yielded reluctantly +and walked very slowly indeed over the rough stones. After a few minutes +my own doubts increased and I determined to test the horse. Dropping the +reins loosely on his neck, I gave him no sign of guidance at all. As +soon as he felt the relaxing of pressure on the bits, his head rose, his +ears stood erect and he seemed to cast an inquiring glance out of the +corner of his eye. When convinced that he was free to choose for +himself, he immediately swung around and started at a rapid walk in the +opposite direction. In a very few minutes I could see the village lights +struggling through the mists, and was soon at my own door. + +This same horse gave me another illustration of his intelligence. I was +riding along the carriage road, on the seashore, intending to turn up +to one of the mountain villages. There were two roads to this village, +and when we came to the first my horse tried to turn up, but was easily +held back and started briskly along, as if fully understanding my +purpose. When we came to the second road we found that it had been +plowed under and that grain several inches high was growing where the +path had been. I knew that the road had been moved a short distance so +as to pass a khan recently erected. The horse had not yet gone over this +altered road and so was puzzled. I left him to his own guidance. When he +came to the point where the road had divided, he stopped and looked at +the grain, and then went slowly on, looking constantly at the field, +until, after about twenty or thirty feet, he decided to make a plunge, +and struck directly through the growing grain to where the old road had +been at the other edge of the field. + +The introduction of railroads and carriages throughout the country +facilitates travel and business a great deal, but it takes away much of +the interest and diversion of getting about from place to place. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +EVANGELISTIC TRIPS + + +It was a practice with us for many years to arrange a special +evangelistic medical trip in the spring of the year. Sometimes Mrs. +Nelson and I would join Dr. Harris in a journey of two or three weeks, +and sometimes the doctor and I would go alone. One of the most memorable +of these journeys was in the spring of 1893, in the month of May. We had +our tent and camp outfit and the large chests of medical supplies +carried on mules and were accompanied by our cook, with his portable +kitchen packed away under him, and the Syrian assistant of the doctor, +so that we made quite a party altogether. We started along the shore +north from Tripoli, making our first camp about ten miles out of the +city. The next day's journey brought us to Tartoose on the shore +opposite the island of Arvad. Ezek. 27:8. This island lies only a short +distance from the shore, but I have never yet been able to reach it +because of the violent west wind on each occasion of a visit to +Tartoose. The island is wholly covered by the town, which is occupied by +sturdy sailors and fishermen. There are many interesting relics of +ancient times in Tartoose, though it is possible that many of the coins +offered to the credulous public may have been produced recently in the +place itself. + +[Illustration: LATAKIA BOYS' SCHOOL] + +[Illustration: TARTOOSE _Crusaders' Church_] + +At the edge of the town stands a fine Gothic church, whose substantial +walls and graceful arches are a pleasure to the eye. The empty windows +make one feel lonesome as he approaches the building, and the bare +interior speaks of a decadent Christianity that adds to the sadness. +But, worst of all, is the minaret crudely built on the corner of the +roof, for this is another of the many Christian churches in Turkey which +have been transformed into mosques. + +At another of our camping places we found, near at hand, an old Roman +amphitheater, where it was not difficult to imagine a concourse of +pleasure seekers seated on the stone benches watching some exhibition of +strength or skill in the arena below. Wherever one goes in Syria, he is +reminded of an ancient glory and power, in close and vivid contrast to a +present state of decay and weakness. + +Our first Sabbath, on this journey, found us at Latakia, where we spent +the day with our neighbors and fellow workers of the Reformed +Presbyterian mission. This mission was started especially to reach the +Nusairiyeh people of north Syria. Because of the persistent interference +of the Turkish Government, their work has been greatly hampered and +their efforts largely restricted to the training of boys and girls in +the boarding institutions in the city, and ministration to the sick in +the hospital. It was a great pleasure to have this break in our journey +and the pleasant intercourse with those engaged in the same kind of +service as our own, and to have the privilege of speaking to the young +people in their schools. + +On Monday we went a short distance from the city, pitching our tent near +a village of considerable size on the plain some miles back from the +sea. As I sat in the moonlight at the door of the tent, a man wearing +the white turban of a Moslem scholar approached me. He seated himself +near me after a pleasant greeting and we fell into agreeable +conversation. After some time, this man took the opportunity, when no +one was near enough to overhear him, to ask most earnestly that we +should send them a teacher for their children. I was surprised at the +request from such a source and turned the conversation so as to make +sure that he understood who we were and what kind of schools we +conducted. He showed that he understood the matter fully, and that he +really desired a Protestant Christian teacher for his town. I then asked +him directly, "Are you not a Moslem?" Looking about again, to make sure +no one should hear him, he said, "Yes, I am a Moslem now," with an +emphasis on the last word which revealed the facts in the case. He was +of a Nusairiyeh family but had yielded to the persistent pressure of the +government so far as to accept the form of adherence to Islam, though in +his heart he hated the system and its followers most cordially. + +A long day's ride brought us through the wild and tortuous valley of the +Nahr-ul-Kandil, up the slope of Mount Cassius to the town of Kessab, +some four thousand feet above the sea, where the Latakia missionaries +have their summer homes. It was a most beautiful though rugged ride, and +would have been thoroughly enjoyable in good weather. The wild flowers +were in full bloom, and every turn in the road brought into view a new +combination of varied and bright colors, where the little blossoms +clustered amid the green foliage, among the gray rocks. The great +drawback to our enjoyment lay in the fact that for a large part of the +distance we rode in a heavy and most unexpected rainfall. We were not +prepared for such an experience in the month of May, and so reached our +destination soaked and cold. We had been directed to take possession of +one of the cottages belonging to the missionaries in Latakia, and it was +certainly a most welcome haven. We were able to light a fire in the +kitchen stove and spread out our wet garments to dry, while we warmed +ourselves in the grateful heat. + +It was a disappointment the next day that the top of Cassius was +enveloped in heavy cloud, forbidding an ascent. This mountain is about +five thousand feet in height, rising directly from the sea, and so is a +conspicuous object from every direction and gives an extensive view from +its summit. We could tarry but one day, and descended to the old site of +Seleucia, at the mouth of the Orontes, and saw some remnants of the old +harbor from which Paul set sail more than once. The Orontes is quite +wide and deep near its mouth and we crossed it on just such a wire ferry +as I had seen many years before on the Connecticut River in +Massachusetts. The gardens of Swadia were most refreshing with their +green verdure, cool shade and rich fruit, after a long day's ride in the +heat, and again we had the pleasure of missionary fellowship, for our +friends of the Reformed Presbyterian mission have a station here also. +Another easy stage brought us to old Antioch, so closely associated with +the beginning of Christian history. It is not an attractive city in +outward appearance and has suffered much at different times from +earthquake. + +From Antioch we followed the Orontes Valley up to Hamath, where we were +once more among our own organized stations. Such journeys give us an +acquaintance with the country and the people, which is of the most vital +importance in planning for the proper expansion of the work. + +Once, on a pleasant summer evening, we were encamped near a Nusairiyeh +village. Among those gathered about us were an elderly peasant and his +son, a well-built, sturdy youth of seventeen or eighteen years. As he +sat before us this young man appeared to be in perfect health and vigor, +but when he rose to walk, his awkward gait revealed his misfortune, for +both feet were so badly deformed that he walked on his ankles and not on +the soles of his feet. The doctor was asked whether this defect could be +remedied. After a careful examination the lad was told that the +operation would be painful, and that some time would be required, but +that if he would come to the hospital, prepared to stay as long as +should be necessary, he would be able to come away, walking erect, like +other people. The faces brightened at once, and we shared in their +pleasure at the prospect of this deliverance. The next morning, however, +we were told that the family had talked over the matter and decided not +to have the operation performed. We assured them there should be no +expense, but they said it was not the matter of expense. Then we told +them of similar cases which had been successfully treated, but they +assured us they had no doubt of the doctor's skill. We encouraged the +young man to bear the pain for the sake of increased enjoyment in life +afterwards, but he said he was not afraid of the pain. What then was the +trouble? At last we learned the truth. So long as the lad could show two +such clubbed feet, he would be excused from military service; but if +they were made straight he would be called to the army; and he would +rather go through life a cripple than to give several years of his vigor +to service in the Turkish army. And he is no exception. + +We were approaching a large town of bigoted people, wondering how we +should secure an opening for our message. I was riding slightly in front +of the doctor, occupied with plans for securing access to the people. +Suddenly I heard the doctor's voice behind me saying, "Boy, do you want +your eye straightened?" On looking back I saw a lad of about fifteen +years, with a decidedly crossed eye, beside the doctor's horse. He +promptly accepted the offer, and we hastened to dismount and tie our +horses. A table in the little roadside cafe was quickly cleared, while +the doctor got out his case of instruments from his saddlebags. The boy +was placed on the table and in an incredibly short time the cords were +severed so that the eyeball took its proper position, and we were +thoroughly advertised. By the time our camp equipage came up, we had +been provided with an excellent place to camp, and had nothing to +complain of in the reception of the people. + +A memorable experience was in the neighborhood of a large village whose +gardens are said to be watered by three hundred springs. Whatever the +correct number may be, there is no question about the abundance of +water and the luxuriance of the gardens. We had three tents, one for +medical clinics and one apiece for our two households, and settled down +for a fortnight's work. Every day we had crowds about the tent for +medical attention and for religious services. The evenings gave abundant +opportunity for work among those who gathered about us after their day's +work was done. They were glad to join in the hymns of praise, and +listened earnestly to the spoken message and read word. One evening, the +boys who gathered about the tent told me that the superintendent of +their school was in town and had begun an examination, to be finished +the next day. I decided to go to the school the next morning to make the +acquaintance of the superintendent and to see what the school was doing. +When I arose the following day, I found many of the boys about the tent, +and asked them why they were not at school for the examination. "Oh," +they said, "there is no examination to-day. Early this morning, the +superintendent, the teachers and the headman of the village took their +horses, a large bottle of spirits and a young kid, and went up to the +top of the mountain to a famous spring to spend the day in a drinking +spree." + +One of the pleasantest evenings I remember in my regular routine touring +was spent in this same village. We had brought our party to a garden, +owned by one of our friends who was always glad to have us make it our +headquarters. We had eaten our supper and were seated on the ground, +under a high, branching tree into which was trained a huge grapevine. +Behind us was a little hut, in which the caretaker slept in stormy +weather. At one side was a rude booth where the owner slept during the +summer. An oil lantern gave some light. One by one quite a group of +neighbors and friends assembled and, after some general conversation, +we sang some hymns. Then I opened the Bible for a little reading, with +simple exposition. As I read and talked to them, the row of dark faces +was turned toward me with an intentness and eagerness to hear that made +me hope they might not see me or hear my words, but hear those words of +life spoken so many years ago in Palestine, and see that Face from which +alone shines the true light. + +We are not always left to do as we please on these trips, for the +paternal Turkish Government sometimes takes an unnecessary interest in +our plans and shows an excessive concern for our safety. We had crossed +a rugged section of the mountains and come down to a walled town, which +is a government center. Here we camped near the town and were promptly +favored with a call from officials, sent by the governor to find out who +we were. We paid a formal call on his Excellency and were allowed to +remain quietly as long as we desired. When we broke camp a polite +message came from the governor, asking where we were going and offering +a guard and escort. We returned a grateful acknowledgment of his +courtesy, but assured him that we were familiar with the roads and would +not trouble him to send an escort. It was only after some difficulty +that we succeeded in getting away alone. We learned afterwards that we +were followed, and that, in accordance with instructions from +headquarters, word was sent from place to place to keep watch of us. At +one large town we had large crowds about our camp and large audiences +for evening services for several days, when suddenly there was a change +and no one came near us. Apparently the sick were all healed and all +interest in singing and conversation had ceased. It developed that word +had been sent to the nearest government center, and orders had come back +at once, not to interfere with our comfort but to notify the people to +have nothing to do with us. At one of these places, which were all +occupied by Nusairiyeh and Ismaeliyeh people, Mrs. Nelson was talking +with some of the women about religion. They said, "Do Christian women +have any religion?" When assured that we believe religion to be for +everyone, whether male or female, rich or poor, wise or ignorant, they +replied: "It is not so with us. A woman with us can have no share in +religion. If one of us should accidentally overhear the men talking +about religious beliefs, so that she unintentionally learned some +religious doctrine, she ought to acknowledge it and be put to death. And +it is right to be so, for a woman must know nothing of religion." + +On another occasion, quite a party of us stopped to spend the night in +one of these towns. While I was busy with arrangements for the night +other members of the party went to look about the little castle at the +edge of the town. Our presence was reported to the acting governor. +Unfortunately he was a man of surly disposition and anxious to magnify +his office. He demanded our Turkish passports, which he had a technical +right to do. Unfortunately some of the party had failed to provide +themselves with these documents as they were seldom called for. It gave +our little governor a chance and he used it, insisting that he must send +us to Hamath, practically under guard, but nominally under military +protection. We were intending to go to Hamath, but not directly, and so +it was finally agreed that the horseman go with us to Mahardeh where we +were to lodge, and accompany us the following day to Hamath. When we +started out the next morning, it was ludicrous to see the haughty airs +of this soldier who was sent with us. He acted as if he really believed +these foreigners were committed to his absolute control and carried his +head very high. Before going many miles we had succeeded, by pleasant +conversation, in limbering him up considerably, and by noon, when we +stopped for luncheon, he displayed his power in our behalf by ordering +the villagers to serve us in every way possible. By evening, when we +entered Mahardeh, he was quite cringing in his servility, for now he +realized that he was alone and we were among friends, so it was worth +while to be genial and submissive. When I informed him that I was not +going with the party the next day, he claimed to be greatly terrified +and begged me most humbly not to subject him to such peril. "For," said +he, "the number of foreigners is mentioned in the governor's letter, and +if I do not produce the full number, I shall be held responsible." I +said, "Be that as it may, I must stay here over Sunday and on Monday +morning I will follow and report myself to his Excellency if necessary." +He went away, apparently in much uncertainty. I knew, however, that the +matter was a mere formality and would bring no risk either to him or to +me; and so it proved, for the governor took no interest in the matter at +all. + +On a warm summer evening, Dr. Harris and I rode up to the sheik's house +in a village I have never visited before or since. As strangers we were +welcomed to the public room. It was soon discovered that a doctor was +present, and immediately all who were diseased came about us. It was a +marvel to see men lie down before this stranger with perfect confidence +and allow him to cut about their eyes or put drops in them. It does +happen, alas, too often, that this credulity costs them dear, for many +an eye has been ruined by conscienceless quacks who trade on the +simplicity of the people. It is a pleasure, however, to see them place +themselves in the hands of the skillful and honest missionary physician, +who will help them, if possible, or tell them truthfully if there is no +remedy. At sunset a large dish of wheat, boiled with some meat, was +brought out, and cakes of barley bread placed about it. All who were +present were bidden to partake, and we did the best we could to satisfy +our hunger. After a social evening we spread our beds and made ready for +sleep, if possible. As I lay on my bed, I could hear those who sat about +discussing us. They told of the doctor's famous skill and what he had +done there before them. I was glad to find that I held the humble +position of doctor's assistant in their estimation. But I could not help +wondering then and since about that village. So far as I know that is +the only missionary visit ever made there. Is it enough? + +[Illustration: ALEPPO MINARET] + + + + +CHAPTER V + +ALEPPO + + +In 1893 a plan was developed in the mission to extend our sphere of +labor so as to include the city of Aleppo, which had been occupied many +years before by the mission and then left because of the exigencies of +the work and lack of forces. It was a four days' journey from our +nearest outstation, and hence not easy to care for; but as Tripoli +Station was the nearest part of the mission, Aleppo was placed under our +direction. + +Aleppo is one of the largest cities in Syria, and a most important +commercial center. It is nearly the most northern point for the use of +the Arabic language, as Turkish becomes the general medium of +communication one day's journey farther north. Being so near the Turkish +district, there are many Turkish-speaking people in Aleppo, but the +city as a whole is essentially an Arabic-speaking place. The American +Board had a Turkish congregation connected with their mission and +maintained church and school work in Aleppo for the Turkish-speaking +strangers resident in the city. There was the most cordial welcome from +these missionaries to our proposal to organize work for the +Arabic-speaking population. Before making my first visit of supervision +to Aleppo it was arranged by correspondence that Mr. Sanders of Aintab, +the missionary in charge of that district, should meet me and spend +several days in conference as to the arrangement of details of our +interlocking work. It had been proposed most kindly that we should hold +our Arabic services in the premises of the Turkish congregation. + +In many ways that first journey to Aleppo was a unique experience. It +was a venture into a region of country wholly new to me, and involved +planning for a new department of service. There were two ways to reach +Aleppo, one wholly by land, involving a somewhat dangerous ride from +Hamath for four days; the other by sea to Alexandretta, and thence by +horseback over a carriage road to Aleppo. It was decided to take this +latter course, though all subsequent visits were made the other way. +After gaining all the information I could before leaving home, I took +the steamer to Alexandretta, where I landed on Monday morning. At once I +began my search for a riding animal, and at length secured a horse +guaranteed to be swift and of easy gait, whose owner promised to see me +in Aleppo by the evening of the third day. Delayed by those who wished +to accompany us, it was past noon before we set out on the road. It was +not long before I discovered that the ease had been left out in the +structure of my horse, and that any speed he may have had once was +well-nigh worn out. It was clear that I should have to work my passage, +but my courage held out. + +We pressed up the mountain slope and crossed the ridge in good time, +having many beautiful views back over the dark blue Mediterranean. Mount +Cassius lifted its rocky head five thousand feet, directly out of the +sea, to the south, showing where the Orontes empties into the sea at old +Seleucia. After passing the summit of the range we dropped down rapidly +to the Antioch plain, having the lake of Antioch in full view before us. +By sunset we had reached the place intended as our first halt, +thirty-seven kilometers from the shore. I found no place of +entertainment but a bare inn where I could set up my camp bed and sleep. +There was no food to be had for love or money and so I had to depend on +the scant supplies I had brought with me in my saddlebags. + +The second day's ride was much longer than the first, as we kept to the +saddle for twelve hours, notwithstanding the entreaty of my companions +to break the journey earlier. I reminded them of the pledge to reach +Aleppo on the third day, and so kept on until dusk. We had left the +carriage road for a more direct trail and stopped for the night in a +small, desolate village. There was no decent shelter to be found and so +I gladly set up my bed on the threshing floor, and slept under the +starry sky. I inquired for milk, eggs, bread, cheese, anything in the +way of food, offering ample pay for anything edible. After much +persuasion the people were induced to burrow in the straw pile on the +threshing floor from which they produced a watermelon. This was +refreshing at least, and helped to wash down my bread, which was getting +rather dry, as I did not like to use much water in this swampy region. +Long before dawn we were again on the road and pushed steadily ahead +over ridge after ridge, until, in the middle of the afternoon, the city +of Aleppo broke on our sight, a most refreshing vision. In one of the +valleys near Aleppo the traveler cannot fail to notice many heaps of +small stones, evidently placed there to mark certain spots. The place is +called the valley of the slain, and each pile indicates where some +victim has fallen. + +The appearance of Aleppo as one approaches it from the west is not +unpleasing, for it is the first well-built town seen after leaving the +coast. The houses are built of white limestone and the gardens about the +city lend a touch of green, most refreshing after the barren country +left behind. At first sight the designation of Aleppo as +Halch-es-Shahba--Aleppo the Gray--seems most appropriate. It is a pity +to detract from the more poetic explanation of the title. Old tradition +says that Abraham had his encampment at the site of Aleppo for a long +time, and was recognized throughout the region for his wealth and +generosity. He had set apart for the use of the poor the milk from a +certain gray cow in his herd, and hence some one was always on the +watch at evening. As soon as the gray cow came forward, this watchman +would shout at the top of his voice, "Haleb es Shahba," which means, "He +has milked the gray cow." Hence the city, which later grew up at this +spot, was called Haleb-es-Shahba, or Aleppo. + +I shall never forget a conversation connected with that journey. My +comrades were all Moslems, and as we jogged on, hour after hour, during +those three days, there were opportunities for conversation on many +topics. One day I asked one of them who was a religious teacher, what +his doctrine had to say as to the fate of non-Moslem infants who died in +infancy. I was surprised to find how closely his view parallels our own +Christian view of infant salvation. He answered at once that they are +all saved through the intercession of Mohammed. + +On reaching the city I sought a hotel, in order to remove the soil of +travel before hunting up our friends in this strange city. I was in the +midst of making myself presentable when a loud knock at my door was +followed immediately by its opening, and a rough Turkish police officer +made his appearance. Without a word or suggestion of apology, he began a +series of questions as to my name, residence and occupation. I let him +exhaust his list of questions and then asked, as quietly as possible, +whether he would like to look over my Turkish passport, which was +required of all in those days. He seemed to be so completely taken aback +at my evident lack of awe for himself, and surprised to meet a person +who was prepared in accordance with the law, that he could scarcely +stammer out in reply, "Why, have you a passport?" "Certainly," I +replied. "Here it is, with all the information you need." He sat down +most meekly and copied off the items he needed and took his departure in +a really polite manner. + +As this was my first visit to Aleppo, everything seemed strange to me, +except in so far as all oriental cities have a measure of resemblance. +As I was met also by Mr. Sanders, a missionary in charge of established +work, I found it natural to expect to be dependent on him for +everything. It came thus as a surprise to have him turn to me, in the +street, to act as interpreter. He spoke Turkish, but my Arabic was far +more necessary and serviceable in general intercourse. + +These experiences impressed it upon me most vividly that Aleppo is +thoroughly an Arabic-speaking city, and that the work should be in +organic connection with the evangelical work in other parts of Syria. +The Turkish congregation is a natural member of the Cilicia Union and +should affiliate with the churches of the north, but the Arabic +evangelical work belongs with the organizations under the care of our +mission in Syria. For four years this arrangement was continued and we +maintained Arabic services with a Syrian preacher and a day school with +a Syrian teacher. Each year two missionary visits were made, the +missionaries in Tripoli alternating in this duty. It was difficult to +carry on the work at such long range. In 1897 a heavy cut in our +appropriations made it necessary to consider every possible method of +retrenchment. At the same time the English Presbyterians were opening a +station in Aleppo for work among the Jews, and it seemed best, all +things considered, to ask our English friends to relieve us of this +responsibility, and assume the care of the work for the Gentiles as well +as for the Jews through the medium of Arabic, in Aleppo. Thus our +official connection with the work in Aleppo ceased, but it has never +passed from our minds that some day an Arabic-speaking evangelical +church in Aleppo should become a member of our Syrian Presbyterian +organization. Now that the railroad has brought Aleppo within six hours' +ride from Hamath, the problem has assumed a new form and we may hope +for a renewal of friendly affiliation. + +Such a city as Aleppo, with about two hundred and fifty thousand people +and increasing commercial importance, demands much of the missionary +organizations. The famous Constantinople Bagdad railway of the Germans +passes through Aleppo. A branch line connects with the Mediterranean at +Alexandretta. The French system from Beirut ends in Aleppo, giving +direct connection with Damascus, Beirut and Tripoli. The work of the +American Board, being at present in Turkish, reaches only a small part +of the population. The English mission places its emphasis on work for +the Jews and has ample scope in that part of the population. There +remains the vast bulk of the whole population, with Arabic as their +language, looking naturally to the American mission in Syria for help +and guidance. The large Moslem population and the numerous nominal +Christians deserve the attention of a resident American missionary to +organize aggressive and effective work. Shall we wait longer before +pressing on in this direction? + +Aleppo has been chosen by the International Committee of the Y.M.C.A. as +a place where a building should be erected and a permanent secretary +established. Should we fall behind the Y.M.C.A.? Whenever the American +Presbyterian Church says the word and furnishes the men and the money, I +am sure the Syrian mission will be ready to send one of its members +forward to this new frontier. God forbid that another quarter century +should pass before this is fulfilled. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +NEW STATIONS AND BUILDINGS + + +It has been my privilege to watch from the beginning the growth and +development of three prosperous churches in the territory of Tripoli +Presbytery. Each one has been marked by peculiarities that render it +especially interesting. In the early years of my acquaintance with the +church in Homs, I heard frequently of evangelistic visits on the part of +the young men of the church to various villages in the plain east of the +city--especially to one large village about two miles southeast of us. +The people of this village are of the Syrian or Jacobite church, and +have no little familiarity with the Bible and a really religious +disposition. Our young men from Homs used to go out in small bands of +two or more, with their gospels and hymn books in their pockets. If +they met a friendly reception, they would go into some house, where +those who were interested would gather together and a simple service or +friendly discussion would be held. If no one asked them to come in, they +would seek a place in the public square where people were gathered +together, and sing a hymn or read a passage to open the way for +discussion. In such cases there was danger of an exhibition of hostility +on the part of those who were unfriendly to the evangelical doctrine. It +happened more than once that these faithful messengers were driven out +of town, pursued with stones as well as reviling. Such treatment, +however, could not suppress the truth, and a strong church has grown up +from the seed thus sown amid hostile persecution. + +There was a most interesting old priest in this town of Feiruzeh who +received the truth into his heart, but never had the courage to leave +the old church, though he was known to be at heart an evangelical +believer. He sought books on the evangelical doctrine and studied them +earnestly, and sometimes attended the Protestant service, being present +at least once on a sacramental occasion. He openly taught his people the +folly of auricular confession and priestly absolution, saying to them: +"If you wish to come to me and tell me of your sins, so that I may help +you and pray with you to God for forgiveness, I am at your service; but +I am a sinner like you and we all have access to one Saviour. I cannot +forgive your sins, but will gladly pray for you and with you." + +There had been some inquiry about the truth on the part of a few people +in the village of El Yazidiyeh. In my first visit to the place we +pitched a tent on the threshing floor outside the village. Much +curiosity in our coming was shown, and some opportunity given to +strengthen the purpose of those who were inclined to the truth. At +length a teacher was stationed there and a simple school opened. One or +two of the people had joined the church in a neighboring village, but +the sacrament had never been administered in the town itself. Several +were ready to make a public profession of their faith in Christ, and it +seemed that the time had come to begin the full life of the little +church, by administering the sacrament on the spot. Plans were arranged +for an evening service in the schoolroom, and a good company was +gathered in the rudely furnished, dark little room. There was much +disturbance outside when it was known what was in progress. One zealous +defender of the truth sprang from his seat and rushed out in a most +militant manner to disperse the noisy crowd without. While the little +service was in progress, it was not always easy to keep the attention of +all, on account of the noisy beating of tin cans near by; and some +pebbles were thrown in at the windows. The service was completed, +however, and this was the beginning of what has proved to be one of our +most vigorous churches. There is now a simple church building, which is +always well filled at regular services, and new members are ready to +come forward at almost every communion service. + +The village of Hakoor is memorable, not so much because of hostile +opposition to the work as because of the apparently feeble instrument +used of God for the establishment of the church. A blind man, of keen +and inquiring mind, lived in this village and made a precarious living +by keeping a little shop. He was respected by his neighbors for his +integrity of character, and trusted by the church authorities for his +fidelity to church duties. He began to hear something of the new +evangelical doctrine and though ready to investigate, was strong in his +opposition and slow to yield to the new faith. When once thoroughly +convinced, however, his very honesty of nature made him accept the truth +and declare himself for the Protestant view. The bishop sent for him, +in order to recall him from his error. He told the bishop that he was +convinced that the teaching and practice of the Greek Church were not in +harmony with the gospel, and that he had decided to follow the teaching +of God rather than that of men, but that he was ready to hear anything +the bishop had to say to convince him that he was mistaken. The bishop +began to read him a controversial tract recently prepared against the +Protestant doctrine. Our blind friend interrupted him, saying: "I have +heard all that and can give you an outline of the whole argument. It +does not convince me and so, if you have nothing stronger, it will do no +good." The bishop then reviled him, comparing his course to that of +Judas toward Christ, and so cast him off. The blind man went home, glad +to suffer abuse for the truth. He gathered around him a group of +neighbors who studied the gospel under his guidance, and a little church +has grown up in that village, to which he ministered regularly for a +year, when no other preacher could be found. The little band has been +full of zeal and has raised the money to build a little chapel in which +they worship and in which their children are taught. + +By means which are insufficient in the sight of men, in spite of +opposition from those who are hostile to the truth, God's word continues +to bear fruit and the gospel light continues to spread throughout the +world. + +The missionary is met, in his periodic visitation of the outstations, +with every conceivable request and complaint. I am often asked to mend a +clock or a watch. I have been appealed to to adjust a coffee mill which +did not work right. Matrimonial and family difficulties must often be +arranged. I have told the people that there is one complaint I am always +glad to hear, and that is to the effect that the place of worship is too +small for the regular attendants. When I first went to the village of +Minyara, the services were held in a small room about twenty by +twenty-five feet. There was room to spare, though not a great deal. In a +few years it became necessary to plan for enlargement. This was +accomplished by securing a piece of land adjacent to the building, +taking out the end wall and extending the room so as to increase its +capacity about two thirds. The growth of the congregation was so rapid +and steady that this enlargement was not completed before the room was +again inadequate. An appeal was made to a generous friend in St. Louis, +and five hundred dollars were sent for the Minyara chapel. A further +piece of land was secured, and plans made for an entirely new and larger +building. The outline is rectangular, and the flat roof is supported by +three rows of arches, resting on six pillars. This building has been +ample for the accommodation of this growing church for many years, +though it is often well filled and would be far from sufficient, were +not half the members in America. + +In the city of Homs the old church had a flat dirt roof supported by two +heavy arches, which made the room seem dark and contracted. The regular +congregations taxed the capacity of the building, and the roof timbers +were showing signs of weakness which would necessitate an early renewal. +The pastor of the church began to work earnestly for a reconstruction of +the roof, with an enlargement of the audience room. There was a little +vacant space at one end of the building which if it were inclosed would +increase the capacity about forty per cent. At the same time the heavy +arches could be removed and a galvanized iron roof placed over the +enlarged building. But this would cost a considerable sum, and how was +that to be raised? The people thought they could not raise more than two +hundred dollars. The same friend in St. Louis, who had provided for the +Minyara chapel, sent another five hundred dollars, and we made this +proposition to the church: "After the church spends two hundred and +fifty dollars, the mission will put in five hundred, but if any more is +needed the church must provide it." They went to work with a will. When +the dirt from the old roof was to be carried out they organized a +regular church bee. All the men of the church came together, the pastor, +the doctor, the teacher, the merchant, each one taking one of the rough +baskets in which they carry dirt, and all together got the whole pile +removed at a considerable saving to the building fund. Before the work +was finished the church had raised and expended quite as much money as +they had received from outside. This enlarged place of worship has again +become too small, and its further enlargement is a pressing problem. + +[Illustration: HADETH SUMMER HOME] + +[Illustration: ABU MAROON, THE HADETH CARPENTER] + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +CAMPING LIFE + + +At the close of a tour one spring, Mrs. Nelson and I were compelled to +reach home on a fixed date, because of the expected arrival of guests. +The weather had been unpropitious and the rains heavy for the season of +the year. At one point we had been shut in for several days by a +snowstorm, and all the rivers were unusually high. We had a broad plain +to cross, intersected by three rivers which must be forded. The rain had +been persistent, but ceased on the day we were obliged to start for +home. We reached the first river after about an hour's ride, and crossed +it successfully, the water coming near to the girths of the saddles. The +second river was reached and crossed without serious difficulty, but +from there onward the entire plain seemed to be under water, and our +horses splashed along through water and mud without interruption. Toward +sundown we neared the last stream, and congratulated ourselves that just +beyond it we should find the carriage road and a dry place for the +night. Our road lay through a wretched little Nusairiyeh village, just +before reaching the river, and as we passed the houses we were hailed by +many voices assuring us that the river could not be forded with safety. +I did not believe this at first, thinking it merely a ruse to compel us +to spend the night in their village. Such an event would be more or less +profitable to the people who would provide our necessities for a +consideration, even if there was no thought of robbery, which was quite +possible also. We waited for our muleteers, as they were familiar with +the stream and would be able to decide whether we could cross or not. +Their verdict agreed with the statement of the villagers and so we were +obliged to negotiate for a lodging place. + +After some parley we were allowed to stop in the sheik's public room. +There was not a dry spot about the town, but by riding up close to the +door, we were able to dismount on a large log, and then jump across a +mud puddle to the doorsill, and so enter the room assigned to us. It +would be hard to make anyone who has not seen such houses realize what +this room was like. It was about twenty feet square, with one door and +no window. The lack of this latter was partly supplied by the fact that +the wall of the house had tumbled in at one corner, leaving a ragged +hole through which light and air entered freely. The floor was of dirt +and at two levels. One half, which was used to accommodate people, was +reached by a high step and was comparatively dry. In the middle of this +higher floor was a smoldering wood fire, from which the smoke had +colored the roof timbers a shiny black. The lower half of the floor was +on a level with the ground outside or even a little lower, and was +decidedly muddy. This section was for the accommodation of horses and +cattle. When our party was all inside, so that we could take a census, +we found that the occupants of the room for the night were to be, +besides myself and my wife, the three muleteers, a cook and a Syrian +maid accompanying us to the city. We were in the higher part of the +room. In the other part were two horses, four mules, a goat and a calf. +These were the visible animals, and anyone who has traveled under +similar conditions will appreciate what is meant when I say there were +myriads of other creatures which made themselves known through other +senses than sight. + +The sheik was seated by the fire, warming himself, and gave us a scant +welcome. We took such a supper as we were able to provide in the +circumstances, and prepared to be as comfortable as possible for the +night. One of the men had been suffering from malaria and so I prepared +for him, and others in the party, a dose of quinine, after the fatigue +and exposure of the day. The sheik immediately asked what it was, and +desired a dose for himself and the other men present. It was the same +principle as that which makes bargain sales attractive. Something is +going cheap or gratis, and so I must have it, whether I need it or not. +Doses were given out to all who wished for it, for a few grains of +quinine seldom go amiss in this country. Conversation was not very +lively, about that smoky fire, as we were tired and there were not many +topics of common interest. At length our cook thought he would +facilitate matters a little. He had lived with foreigners long enough to +know the advantage of appealing to the gallantry of men toward the +ladies, so he said in his most ingratiating tone to the sheik, "The lady +is tired and would like to go to sleep." "Well, let her do so, there is +no objection." With a scarcely restrained chuckle, the cook subsided for +a time and then tried again, saying this time, "The Effendi (gentleman) +is tired and would be much obliged if you would leave so that he may +sleep." This was a different proposition and seemed to meet something of +a response. Shortly, one of those present got up and went over into the +corner of the room where he spread out his cloak and proceeded to his +Moslem devotions. When he was through, another followed him with equal +deliberation, and we began to doubt whether we should sleep before +morning. At length the last one withdrew and we were left to ourselves, +including the attendants and animals mentioned before. We spread our +camp bedsteads in the driest part of the room and made ready to sleep. +It was not long, however, before the rain began to fall, and very soon +the roof began to leak over our heads. We spread rubber coats over +ourselves and raised our umbrellas over our heads and tried to see the +humor of the situation. At early dawn we were up and packed our goods +for a new start. The river had fallen sufficiently in the night to +permit our crossing, though with some difficulty. On the farther bank we +found a party of people waiting until the stream should subside +sufficiently to allow them to cross with their small donkeys. + +Every summer it is necessary to make a change from the heat of the plain +to the more bracing air of the mountains. This is not a vacation, for +the missionary's work goes on with little variation, wherever he may be, +but it involves a change of base and the setting up of a simple +household in different surroundings. In those earlier years the mountain +life was exceedingly simple and the means of transportation most crude. +The village of Hadeth is accessible from Tripoli and in a beautiful +situation, directly opposite the famous grove of Cedars of Lebanon. It +lies on a ridge in the mountains at an elevation of some forty-five +hundred feet above the sea. More than one season have we spent in the +house of old Abu Maroon, the village carpenter. The house consisted of +four large rooms, opening on a long, arched porch which extended the +full length of the house. The floors were of dirt and the walls roughly +plastered with mud. We rented three of these rooms, the owners occupying +the fourth. The partitions between the rooms were made of brushwood, +plastered on both sides with mud. These partitions extended only about +three fourths of the way to the roof, leaving ample space above for +ventilation and conversation. The uncovered twigs and small branches at +the top of these partitions made an attractive, artistic feature, very +pleasing to many of our visitors. One of the regular household duties in +those mountain houses was the renewing of the mud on the floors. Every +week or two it was necessary to remove everything from the rooms, spread +a fresh coat of watery mud over the floor, and polish it off with a +smooth, round stone kept for the purpose. We could then anticipate +reasonable freedom from fleas for another period. + +The only way to reach a summer resort was on horseback, over very rough +bridle paths. All furniture had to be transported by mules in like +manner; folding chairs and tables, camping utensils and necessary +bedding had to be made into suitable bundles; indispensable supplies had +to be provided and mules secured to carry all to the mountains. It was a +long, hard day's ride and the party was sure to be pretty tired the +first night of arrival, but the renewed vigor in the fresh mountain air +gave new strength for the resumption of life on the hotter plain in the +fall and it was well worth all the trouble it cost. + +When it is possible to secure a week or two for real rest, there is no +more delightful way to accomplish the purpose than to make a camp in the +cedar grove. This clump of trees lies in a basin in the higher +mountains, about six thousand feet above sea level. On the east and +north, and somewhat on the south, the mountains rise about this great +amphitheater to about four thousand feet more, being the highest +mountains anywhere in Syria. Large patches of snow lie perpetually on +these highest mountains, but the slopes are bare, having no trees nor +shrubs beyond clumps of thorns and scanty grass where the melting snows +afford some moisture. Flocks of goats range over these barren slopes, +gaining a scanty subsistence. In the days of Solomon and Hiram of Tyre +these mountains were probably covered with cedar forests. Nowadays only +small sections are so covered, though on many of the bare heights the +people still dig up the old stumps of great cedar trees, which they sell +for fuel in the cities. + +On the entire mountain range there is left no single grove of really +ancient cedars, except the one of which I have spoken, known among the +people as the "Cedars of the Lord" or simply as "The Cedars." It is +impossible to speak with certainty of the age of these great trees, but +from what we know of their slow growth and the size of many of the +trunks, it is safe to place their age in the thousands of years. There +are more than four hundred trees in the grove and their reputed sanctity +has protected them from destruction. Some forty years ago one of the +governors of Mount Lebanon had a wall built inclosing the grove and a +guardian appointed. This affords protection from goats, and now a number +of small trees are growing up to perpetuate the grove in generations to +come. If proper steps were taken for reforesting the whole of Lebanon, +there would be a great improvement in many ways, and the agricultural +wealth of the country would be greatly increased. + +To establish a camp among these grand old trees is a most delightful way +to spend a short vacation. The silence of the nights under the spreading +branches; the fragrance of the foliage; the soothing sigh of the breeze +among the tree tops; the beautiful and ever-changing colors on the +higher mountain slopes; the beautiful outlook to the west over the +narrow valley out to the distant Mediterranean; all these influences +tend to quiet the tired nerves, refresh the exhausted brain and draw the +discouraged heart back to quiet and rest in the hand of the Master. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +PERSECUTION + + +Late one afternoon as I was sitting in my study, the doorbell rang and a +young man from Hamath entered, showing every token of great excitement +and fatigue. He had just arrived on the diligence from Homs. As soon as +he was sufficiently composed to give me a clear story, he told me that +the preacher in Hamath had been suddenly arrested by the local +authorities, and after somewhat rough treatment, had been sent under +guard to Damascus, a journey of five days on horseback, as it was before +the era of railroads. So far as I could learn from my informant, the +case was one of flagrant persecution, with no culpable occasion behind +it. The first thing to be done was to quiet the excitement of our +friend, who had brought the word himself rather than trust a written +message. Giving him a chance to rest, I made hasty arrangements for a +night ride to Beirut. The moon would rise about ten o'clock and I +arranged for two riding horses to be ready for us before midnight. We +set out together through the olive orchards under the witchery of the +moonlight. It would have been a pleasant experience under other +circumstances. The road follows the general line of the seashore, at +times close to the breaking waves, and again rising on a rocky bluff at +whose base the blue sea keeps up an incessant murmur. In the silent +night the play of advancing and retreating waves gives a constantly +varied effect of light and sound. + +Before noon we reached Beirut and consulted with various missionary +friends and the consuls of America, England and Germany, who take an +interest in matters affecting the Protestants in Turkey. It was decided +that our Hamath friend should go at once to Damascus, while I awaited +word from him whether my presence was needed. The following day a +telegram agreed upon between us brought the brief message, "Better +come." The old French diligence in those days made the trip across Mount +Lebanon to Damascus in something over thirteen hours, a rather fatiguing +day. On the evening of my arrival we had a conference of the immediate +circle of friends, and the arrested man himself was among us. This was a +thoroughly characteristic incident, under Turkish administration, and so +merits a word of explanation. During the journey from Hamath to +Damascus, friendly relations had been established between the prisoner +and his escort, so that the latter were willing to accommodate their +prisoner in any reasonable measure. It was agreed upon that they should +not announce their arrival nor report to their superiors for a few days +until the prisoner secured a little rest and made arrangements for his +defense. Hence I was informed by our friend himself that he would not +arrive in Damascus "officially" for several days. + +It is needless to go into all the details of this event but the +animating cause of the incident has its humorous as well as its +enlightening side. Some time before, our friend had wished to compliment +the man who was at the time governor of Hamath. Being of a literary turn +he wrote a flattering poem to present on a suitable occasion. +Indiscreetly he worked into his poem serious reflections on another man +who was the governor's enemy and who held a similar post at a distance. +The governor was so pleased that the poem was printed for distribution +and a copy reached the hands of the other man, who was naturally not +pleased with it. In the subsequent shifting of appointments this very +man became governor of Hamath, and found a way to vent his spite at the +poet. + +When looked at from a safe perspective, most of the so-called +persecution in Syria has a predominant touch of humor in it. The most +convenient and suitable place for Tripoli missionary families to spend +their summers is in the village of Hadeth close to the summer seat of +the Maronite patriarch. The whole valley is considered sacred, and hence +strongly guarded against the pollution of any heretical evangelical +influences. For a number of years the ecclesiastics tried, in every way +they could devise, to make us trouble and to prevent our securing houses +in the town, or finding any comfort when we did so. During one summer +they were especially aggressive and seemed determined to be rid of us. +The priests warned everyone against serving us in any way, and against +selling us anything to eat. For a few days our servant had to go to a +neighboring town to buy supplies. The woman who had been doing our +washing sent word she could not come. A special conclave assembled and +summoned our landlord, threatening all sorts of vengeance if he did not +turn us out. They said that a mob would destroy his house over our +heads. The poor old man came to me in great fear, knowing the +unscrupulousness of his opponents, and thinking they might get up some +false accusation against him in the government and cast him into prison +or subject him to needless loss or expense. I assured him they would not +dare touch us or attack his property and that the whole plan was to +frighten us into leaving town, if possible. I told him that we were to +leave on a certain day in October. When the hostile party learned this, +they drew up a pledge that the Americans were to be expelled from town +on the day I had indicated, under a forfeit of fifty pounds from the +landlord to the local church. He was also required to go to the church +and apologize publicly to the people, kiss the floor of the church in +front of the picture of the Virgin, and pay a pound into the treasury. +He was then accepted as in good and regular standing, and all waited for +the appointed day. Unfortunately I did not know of this until it was too +late to change our plans. On the day appointed we left town with our +household goods and as we rode away we heard the church bells ringing +out a peal of rejoicing to celebrate the cleansing of the town. Times +have changed now, and the same priest who led in the opposition then +will call upon us and crack jokes about the times gone by. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +EMIGRATION + + +The period of my life in Syria has witnessed the rapid development of +emigration. In former days there was very little travel among the +people, the marriage of a girl to a man in a neighboring village being a +notable and rather rare occurrence. It was no unusual thing for a person +to spend his whole life without ever going so much as ten miles from his +birthplace. I was entertained for supper one night at the home of a +wealthy Moslem in Homs. The old father of our host was present and I +entered into conversation with him as to the experiences of his long +life. He told me that he had taken four wives, as permitted by Moslem +law. He had twenty sons who had all grown up and married in Homs. He +said that his grandsons numbered about a hundred, all of whom he knew +by face, though he might not be able to fit the right name to each, at +first sight. Knowing him to be quite wealthy, I asked whether he had +traveled much. My first question was whether he had been to the +seashore, some sixty-five miles away at Tripoli. He had never seen the +sea. "Have you been to Damascus?" This would appeal more to a devout +Moslem, since the sea is always associated more or less with the unholy +foreigners of Christian faith, while Damascus is an ancient seat of +Moslem power and glory. "No, I have never seen Damascus," was his +answer. "Well, surely you have been to Hamath?" This is only thirty +miles distant. "No," he said, "I never went to Hamath." "Have you passed +your whole life right here in Homs?" "Once," he said, "I made a journey +out among the Arabs of the desert, to buy sheep." That was the extent of +traveling by an intelligent, well-to-do Moslem of the old school. + +Some thirty or forty years ago a change began among the people and a +few enterprising men sought more favorable opportunities for making a +living in foreign lands. Many of them were successful and encouraged +others to follow them, until now the most profitable business of the +steamships calling at Syrian ports is the carrying of emigrants back and +forth. The weekly exit is numbered by the hundreds, and large numbers +also return from time to time. Few of those who return to Syria remain +for any length of time, for, having once tasted the liberty and +experienced the opportunities of life in western lands, they are no +longer content to fall back into the old, slow, unprofitable methods of +the Orient. A notable change has also come over the character of the +emigration in another respect. At first it was only the more +enterprising, vigorous young men who went abroad to seek their fortunes. +Now whole families go together. Women and girls emigrate as freely as +men. At first it was only Christians who sought to improve their +condition in Christian lands; now Moslems and Nusairiyeh go as freely as +do the Christians. + +At first this emigration was a blind flight from poverty and oppressive +conditions at home, with little understanding of the places to which the +emigrants were going. They placed themselves literally in the hands of +the steamship agents in Marseilles. Taking passage from Syria to +Marseilles, they were shipped on from there in bunches, according to the +advantage of the agent into whose hands they fell. They might be sent to +Argentine, while the friends to whom they were going were in +Massachusetts. They might be sent to Sierra Leone or to Capetown, but it +was all America in their minds. The simple idea of geography in those +days seemed to divide the world into two parts, Syria and America. The +common people know far better now, for they discuss intelligently the +conditions of life and business in the various parts of the world. +Syrians are to be found in every one of the United States, from Maine to +Florida, and from the Atlantic to the Pacific. They are in Alaska, the +Sandwich Islands and the Philippines. They are in every country of +Central and South America, in the West Indies and in all parts of +Africa. In many places they have bought property and made permanent +business arrangements. + +In the early years there were many indications of their lack of +experience in money matters and general business methods. One man in +Brazil had accumulated quite a sum of money and wished to return home. +He did not understand the simplicity of taking a draft on London from +the bank, and was averse to parting with good gold for a mere slip of +paper. He changed all his money into English sovereigns and put the +whole nine hundred into a belt, which he secured around his body under +his clothes. He did not dare remove his treasure day or night during the +weeks of journey, enduring the weight and pressure until he reached +home. He was then taken sick and nearly lost his life from kidney +trouble induced by this folly. + +Another young man in Mexico started home by way of New York. He knew +that English and French gold are current in Syria, and was sure that +American gold was every bit as good. So he exchanged his money for +American gold coin. It came to my attention through a man who came to me +with a twenty-dollar gold piece, and asked what it was worth. When I +told him its real value, he showed such surprise as to arouse my +curiosity. It appeared that this coin, with one like it, had been given +as betrothal token for his daughter. Subsequently the engagement was +broken by the young man and so, in accordance with oriental custom, the +token was forfeited. The father, wishing to realize on the coin, took it +to a local goldsmith who pretended to examine it carefully and then +offered three dollars for it. The father was disappointed at this +appraisal and indignant that his daughter should have been rated so low. +The reaction, when he found the coin to be worth nearly seven times as +much as he had been informed, was almost too much for him. + +One matter connected incidentally with the emigration has been the call +for assistance in handling money for those abroad. In the earlier years +there were no adequate banking facilities outside of Beirut and so the +people began to send back money to their families through the hands of +friends who were merchants living in the various seaport towns. In +several cases unscrupulous men took advantage of the general ignorance +in money matters to secure abnormal profits to themselves, and in more +than one instance, through fraudulent bankruptcy, cheated the people out +of hundreds of pounds. Those who were in any way connected with the +American missionaries began sending their money to us, and at last we +were obliged to conduct quite an extensive banking business. In some +years drafts for several thousand pounds would come to me in sums +ranging from two or three pounds to several hundred at a time. These +were to be paid out to various relatives or to be held on deposit until +the owners' return. On one occasion I opened a registered letter from +Brazil and found in it a draft on London for ten pounds. On reading the +letter I found it to be written by a man I did not know, in behalf of +another stranger, and that the money was to be paid to an entire +stranger in a village I had never seen. It was enough for the sender to +know that his money was in the hands of an American missionary. + +On one occasion a returned emigrant came to my associate with a kerchief +full of silver and gold coins. He asked the privilege of depositing this +with the mission until he needed it. As it was evidently a considerable +sum, he was advised to put it in the bank so as to secure some +interest, but he preferred to feel sure that his money was safe, even +though it earned nothing. Neither did he see any necessity of waiting +until the money should be counted and a regular entry made of it in the +books. It was enough that the missionary had charge of it. This open +account remained with us a number of years and sometimes amounted to two +thousand dollars. + +A man sent me from Venezuela a draft for a hundred pounds, charging me +to let no one know of it, but to hold the money until he should come. +After a long interval I learned that his wife was thinking of going to +join him, since no word had been received. I succeeded in dissuading +her, as I knew he was planning to come home and they might miss each +other in mid-ocean. The return was delayed, and before he arrived his +funds in my hands amounted to six or seven hundred pounds. + +The volume of emigration is growing every year and is taking away the +strength of the land, but better banking facilities have relieved us of +the financial cares formerly carried. The director of the Ottoman Bank +in Tripoli estimates the annual amount of money passing through this one +port in drafts from Syrians abroad as not less than seven hundred +thousand pounds sterling. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +SYRIAN ENTERPRISES + + +The final aim of mission work is the development of a self-supporting, +self-propagating Christian community, and hence the happiest experience +of a missionary's life is connected with the first independent +undertakings of the people whom he serves. In this connection there are +two interesting incidents connected with the life of the evangelical +church in Homs. There are men still living who remember when the gates +in the old city walls were closed every night at sunset, and a belated +traveler had to make himself as safe and comfortable as he could on the +outside until sunrise the next morning. When this old custom passed into +disuse, the city gradually outgrew the old limits and new sections +began to appear outside the old walls. When I first visited Homs, there +was already a large settlement on the north side of the old city, known +as the Hamidiyeh in honor of the reigning sovereign Abd-ul-Hamid. In +this section of the city were a number of evangelicals and it was most +desirable that there should be regular services in that section. Much +difficulty was found in renting suitable quarters, and a change was +necessary every year or two. At length one of the most prosperous men in +the church decided that a permanent chapel must be secured. The people +in that part of the city were poor and could not raise money to buy +property. He decided to set aside a certain sum, and let it accumulate +in his own business until he should have sufficient for the purpose. He +did so, and after some years was able to purchase and remodel a house in +the Hamidiyeh. That little chapel has been in constant use now for many +years for public service on the Sabbath and school during the week, and +is all the result of the generous thought of this one man. + +[Illustration: HOMS Boys' School] + +Early in the present century a zealous young man became the acting +pastor of the Homs church. He was constantly seeking for means to +strengthen the position of the evangelical church in the community and +was soon convinced of the importance of improving the schools, so as to +make them more effective and more attractive. He urged the church +forward in support of his plans, and raised the standard of work in the +schools. He himself was an indefatigable worker and inspired others with +the spirit of service. He gained the confidence of the man referred to +above and secured his help financially when needed. At length it seemed +to this pastor that all their efforts would be in vain unless he could +establish a boarding school for boys. It was not possible for the +mission to help in these plans at that time, and our earnest friend +decided to push ahead alone. A bequest was made to the evangelical +church in Homs by one of her members who died in Egypt. This was a +nucleus, and others were induced to contribute larger and smaller sums. +A beginning was made in temporary quarters in the city itself, while a +fine site was purchased outside for the permanent building. The school +was popular from the start, and, considering the cramped and unsuitable +quarters in which it was conducted, did admirable work. Syrians in Egypt +and America responded well to the appeal to their patriotism. A plain +but commodious building was erected on the new site and the school was +moved to its new home. The school has about four or five acres of land, +lying higher than any other plot near the city. This tract is inclosed +by a simple wall. Within is the two-story stone school building, with +accommodation for something over a hundred boarders, and a schoolroom +which might accommodate nearly twice that number. The kitchen and dining +room are in a simpler building adjacent. Thus has been provided a +convenient, healthful home for the school, with ample playground and +suitable surroundings. + +A Christian community which shows the strength and ability to organize +and conduct such enterprises as these has certainly a degree of vitality +which gives us every confidence in its growth and advance in the future. + +One of the greatest misfortunes, as it appears to me, in the situation +of the subject races in Turkey, is their inability to appreciate the +value and meaning of the word "loyalty." I have failed to find an Arabic +word in common use which conveys the fullness of what we mean by that +word "loyalty," and it seems to be because the people have had no +occasion to express the idea. It is an inestimable loss to a people to +live in such conditions, for there is an inevitable reaction upon +character and a blighting effect on all the relations of life. This +condition of things has grown rapidly in recent years, and most +evidently during the reverses of the Balkan war. It is an everyday +experience, in passing along the street, to hear people exclaiming +against the oppression and injustice of Turkish rule, with the +expression, "Anything would be better than the present condition." Nor +are such expressions any more frequent from Christians than from +Moslems. A member of one of the leading Mohammedan families was recently +quoted to me as saying: "We want an end of this business. We want the +English to come and take charge of us." One day as a merchant was taking +a bag of small coins from his safe to make a payment, he was warned not +to accumulate any large amount of these small coins, as they would +depreciate in value, if anything serious should happen to the Turkish +Government. With a look of disgust, he said, "I would gladly lose them +all and the silver coins, too, to be wholly rid of Turkey, once for +all." On another occasion a simple carriage driver expressed his views +in rough style, by saying, "Sir, the Devil himself would be an +improvement on the present state of things." Then more seriously, he +said, "We know we are not fitted for self-government, and what we want +most of all is England, or if that is impossible, then France." On a +railroad train there was one other passenger in the compartment with me. +While stopping at a station, something occurred to excite my companion +to violent abuse of the government. When he paused I said to him, "Sir, +how is it that you speak so, although you wear the fez?" He turned to me +and spoke most earnestly, but with no trace of excitement, saying, "Yes, +I am a Turk, and I am a Mohammedan, and nevertheless, I have no words +strong enough to express my contempt for the Turkish Government." All +these things are exceedingly sad, for it is an immeasurable loss to a +people if they cannot love and respect those whom they must obey. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +INTERRUPTIONS + + +Our life in Syria has been, on the whole, quiet, but it has not been +without its shadows. There is no life without its sorrows and unexpected +experiences. The comparative isolation of missionary life brings into +very close fellowship those who are cut off from the closer relationship +to friends in the homeland. One Sunday afternoon in the fall of 1906, I +was standing in the back of our chapel, awaiting the closing exercises +of the Sunday school. The telegraph messenger appeared at the door and +handed me a telegram, for which I signed without serious thought. When I +opened the paper and read the wholly unexpected message, all strength +seemed to leave me, and I hastened to a seat, lest I fall to the floor. +The message told of the sudden death of my brother-in-law, Rev. W. K. +Eddy of Sidon, while away from home on a tour. We had considered him one +of the most vigorous men in the mission, for whom years of active +service might be expected, and now in a moment he had been called away, +leaving his family and his work to others. It took time to realize the +situation but some things had to be done at once. I called my servant +and sent him to secure an animal, as I had to start at once for Sidon. +Arrangements had to be made for my absence, and the sad news had to be +broken to the Tripoli circle of friends. By five o'clock I was ready to +start, and I shall never forget that night's ride. The first twenty +miles were covered in the early evening hours, on horseback over a +rough, stony road, while the question kept ringing through my mind, "Why +should this be?" About ten o'clock I reached the carriage road where I +could take a more comfortable and speedy conveyance. All through the +dark night, as I jolted over the road, trying to get a little rest in +preparation for the hard day before me, I could not turn my mind from +the many problems connected with this sad experience. Who would take up +the work thus suddenly dropped? What plan would be made for the family +of growing children? The night was dark, but the dawn was approaching. +The way seemed dark, but the Father's love had brought us to this point +and he would not leave us to walk alone. In the early dawn, I reached +Beirut and found the missionary friends there ready to start for Sidon, +and so we all went on together, reaching the darkened home about noon. +The large assembly hall was filled in the afternoon for the funeral +services, and a great crowd of all classes of people marched out to the +cemetery, where the mortal remains of our loved brother and fellow +worker were laid away. Those are precious spots where we do the last +service on earth for those we have loved, but they are doubly precious +on the mission field where the distance from the great body of family +friends and relatives is so deeply felt. But these occasions strengthen +the ties that bind us to the hearts and lives of those among whom we +live and whom we serve. + +We had scarcely adjusted ourselves to this sorrow when another of the +hard experiences of life came upon us. The season had been one of +exceptionally heavy work and continuous strain, which showed in a +decided break in health. The doctors said work must be dropped at once +and the winter be spent in Egypt, if a more serious break were to be +avoided. It was not exactly a pleasure excursion on which we started +during the Christmas holidays. There was no time to write ahead and make +inquiries or arrangements, so we set out to a strange land among +strangers, in search of health. Finding no place which seemed suitable +in lower Egypt, we decided to go up the river to Assiyut, and wrote a +letter to Dr. Alexander, president of the United Presbyterian College +at that place. We had no personal acquaintance and no claim upon him, +but he was a missionary, and that was enough. + +It was a long ride and Egyptian railroads are nothing if not dusty. Our +spirits had not begun to rise yet, and we felt rather tired and wholly +disreputable in appearance, when we left the train at Assiyut, ready to +ask our way to the Greek hotel. But before we had a chance to do +anything, we saw a bright, cheery face, bearing an evident welcome, and +a hearty voice assuring us that the owner was Dr. Alexander and that he +had come to take us in charge. It was the first encouraging incident, +and lifted a weight from us at once. As we walked along he told us they +had held a conference over our case, and, having decided that we could +not be comfortable in the hotel, had placed at our disposal a rest room +provided in the hospital for members of their own mission or other +foreigners who needed rest and medical attention. A more perfect +provision for our need could not have been devised. We enjoyed the +companionship of the corps of foreign nurses, sharing their table and +home life. We had the constant companionship as well as the professional +services of the four medical missionaries. Is it a wonder that I began +to gain at once? After nine weeks we returned to our work, made over and +with a new lease of life, a new sense of the solidarity of Christian +fellowship, and a new realization of the heavenly Father's tender care. + +Such experiences as that winter at Assiyut show how entirely +denominational differences are forgotten on the mission field. In social +intercourse, in the prayer circle, in discussion of mission problems, in +the church service, in the pulpit, there was never anything to remind us +that we were only Presbyterians while our kind hosts were United +Presbyterians. It was a delightful opportunity for the cultivation of +fellowship, and for the observation of other forms and methods of +mission work, under conditions very different from ours in Syria. The +work in Egypt is relieved from many of the problems so insistent in +Turkey. There is no hostile government, always suspicious of every move +made by a foreigner. There is no such inefficiency in the government as +makes the lives of Turkish subjects always insecure and travel +dangerous. But, on the other hand, the climatic conditions in Egypt are +far more trying than in Syria, as the heat is extremely enervating for +most of the year. These climatic conditions undoubtedly account to some +extent for the less virile, independent character of the people. But +whatever the differences in climate, whatever the differences in the +character of the people, whatever the differences in governmental +relations, we came back from Egypt more than ever impressed with the +fact that the conflict is one, the object aimed at is one, and the body +of workers is one, under the direction of our one Lord and Master. + +In 1911 there came another break in the routine life of the field, but +with no such sorrow in it as in the former incidents. The second +Conference for Workers in Moslem Lands met in Lucknow in January 1911 +and our mission chose me as its delegate to that conference. The journey +through the Suez Canal and down the Red Sea and across the Arabian Sea +to Bombay was one of the experiences of life never to be forgotten. +There were enough of us going on the same journey to form a little group +of sympathetic companions and we had many an opportunity at table and on +deck to talk over the matters connected with our life work. + +The contrasts in the streets of Bombay are similar to those seen in all +the changing Orient, but with characteristic differences calculated to +catch the eye of one accustomed to the nearer East. Nowhere in Turkey do +you find such broad, magnificent, paved thoroughfares as those in +Bombay, and yet, beside the track of the electric trolley, you see a +crude cart jogging along behind the humpbacked bullock. On the pavements +you see elaborately dressed ladies from Europe, or from the wealthy +Parsee families, with their Paris gowns and modern hats, and almost at +their elbows the dark-skinned members of the sweeper caste, clad in a +simple loin cloth. You step out of the finely appointed barber shop in +your modern hotel, with its polite, English-speaking attendant, to see +by the roadside a group of swarthy Indians, crouching on the ground, as +one of their number shaves the crowns of their heads. + +The tourist in Galilee in the spring of the year is impressed by the +variety and brilliancy of color all about him in the wild flowers of the +fields. As we walked the streets of Bombay, the same impression was made +upon us by the brightness and variety in the headdress of the men. If +there is any color known to the dyers' art not found among the turbans +of Bombay it is merely because no samples have as yet been sent there. +Every shape as well as every shade is found, and it would almost seem as +if the excessive attention paid to the head covering had exhausted the +energy of the people, leaving no desire or ability to devise any +covering for the rest of the body. A stranger may wonder also at first +why everyone seems to have forgotten to wash his face. Those curious +blotches of varicolored clay on the forehead are not accidental nor an +indication of carelessness to one's personal appearance. On the +contrary, they indicate fidelity to religious duty and reveal to the +initiated the special temple most recently visited by the devout +worshiper. For a transient visitor, this variety and intricacy are +puzzling, but to the initiated everything has its meaning and the +varieties of headdress tell the tale of religious affiliation and caste +gradation. + +Comfortable train service carried us quickly to the north, giving us +glimpses of Delhi, the ancient Mogul capital, with its reminders of the +mutiny; and Agra with its matchless architectural gem, the Taj Mahal. We +reached Agra at the close of the day, and after locating ourselves at +the hotel, set out on foot to have our first glimpse of the Taj by +moonlight. No matter what one may have read of this wonderful building, +no matter what pictures or models one may have seen, I have yet to meet +a person who has not been most deeply impressed by the first vision of +the reality. The approach through the dark foliage of the quiet garden +gives a chance for the impressive grandeur of the marble structure to +fix itself in the visitor's mind. By the time he enters the spacious +archway, he has begun to appreciate the perfection of the curves, the +nobility of the dimensions, the purity of the white marble and the +graceful dignity of the whole combination. The beautifully inlaid black +lettering from the Koran follows the curves of the lofty arch overhead, +adding a sense of sacredness to the entrance. And yet, when one is +inside, he almost forgets the impressions received without. In place of +stateliness and grandeur, we find here a beauty of finish and exactness +of detail which surpass all the more massive qualities of the exterior. +The central tomb is surrounded by a marble screen carved with a delicacy +that makes one forget the marble and think he sees before him the most +perfect and delicate lace veil. The pillars and panels of the screen, +the inner walls of the building, as well as the sides of the tomb +itself, are decorated with the most beautifully inlaid work of vines and +wreaths of flowers represented in their natural colors, in the most +delicate shades of precious stone. One wonders to find such exquisite +work anywhere and the wonder increases when one realizes that this is +not the product of modern skill and patience, but that it has stood +here, from the days of the Mogul Empire, when we consider that India was +a land of barbarians. And more than this is to follow, for this +wonderful mausoleum was erected at fabulous cost by a Moslem ruler, in +memory of his wife. + +We were not in India merely as sightseers. After a night ride on the +train we reached Lahore in the early morning and at the station received +the hearty welcome of J. C. R. Ewing, D.D., president of Forman +Christian College. Again in northern India we had the loving handclasp +of a fellow missionary and the cordial welcome to a missionary home. The +short visit there could give us but a faint impression of what that +college is doing for the Punjab and what a position and influence the +missionaries have among the people of every class, whether Indian or +British. Never did I have such a vivid impression of the awful +experiences of the mutiny, or the wonderful changes wrought by British +rule in India, as when I stood on some of the memorable spots at +Cawnpore and Lucknow, and reviewed the record of treachery and loyalty, +cowardice and bravery, cruelty and gallantry, which were developed in +the awful experiences of the Mutiny. To-day, no matter what may be the +restlessness and uncertainty of the situation, India is a united +country, and not a medley of hostile principalities and warring +kingdoms. Railroads cover the land in every direction with an efficient +service. Perfect carriage roads make the land a paradise for motor cars +and bicycles. Military encampments near all the large cities assure +security of life and property. Schools and colleges are extending +knowledge in every direction. Wealth is taking place of poverty, +knowledge of ignorance, light of darkness, and religion is coming into +its own as a real force in human life and no longer as merely a badge of +faction or clan. + +The gathering at Lucknow was notable. Delegates of many nationalities +gathered in that hall. Workers in many lands and in widely differing +conditions, we came together for a common purpose. Members of many +Christian denominations, we united in the worship of one Master. +Differences were forgotten in a deeper union. Whatever allegiance we +owed to earthly sovereigns, we met as children of the heavenly King. +Whatever may have been the language of our ordinary service, here we had +but one language--that of loving fellowship. We were members of separate +bands of commissioners, coming together at the feet of our Leader to ask +for fuller instructions in the pursuit of his work. + +The keynote of the Lucknow Conference was to win the Moslem world by +love, the love of Christ incarnate in his messenger. It is one of the +most hopeful signs in the advancement of the kingdom that the attractive +power of love is more prominent than the overwhelming power of argument. +It is a great help to the right placing of this emphasis that workers in +many lands, of many nations, of many denominations, are drawing nearer +together and working more in harmony. I returned from India, rejoicing +in all I had seen of God's power and blessing in that land, but with a +deeper conviction that the work in India, in China, in Africa, in Syria +is all one work, under one Master. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +OUR SUPPORTERS + + +One of the brightest things in the missionary's happy lot is the +beautiful relation existing between those on the field and those whom +they represent in the homeland. Many years ago we were calling, one +evening, upon our landlord in Tripoli. The eldest son had recently +returned from America, and in the course of conversation the father +asked from what part of the United States we came, in order to see +whether his son had been in the same vicinity. The son at once replied: +"I know the name of the place, but I do not know in what state it is. +They come from Private Funds." We could not think at first what he +meant, but then discovered that he had found a missionary report among +some old magazines thrown out from the house. In this he had seen our +names in a list of missionaries, giving the name of the society by which +each was supported. Seeing "Private Funds" opposite our names, he +thought it must be the name of the town from which we came, though, as +he said, he did not know in what state it was located. A little +knowledge is truly a dangerous thing. + +The relation indicated by those words, which has subsisted for +twenty-five years, has been most happy. When I was a senior in the +seminary and had already made my application to the Foreign Board, I +received a letter from Mr. George D. Dayton of Minnesota. He was the son +of an elder in my father's old church in Geneva, only a few years older +than I, but already a prosperous business man whose generosity in the +Lord's work was becoming well known. He urged upon me the need and +opportunity in the home mission field of the growing northwest. I +answered him, explaining as fully as I could, the reasons that had led +me to decide that my life should be devoted to another field, realizing +that my answer would be a disappointment to him and might cause some +weakening of the ties of friendship already strong between us. + +The next that I heard of the subject was that Mr. Dayton had written to +the Foreign Board, assuming our support as the personal representatives +of his family in the foreign field. Thus, instead of weakening our +friendship, my choice was the beginning of a closer and warmer relation +than ever. It has always been recognized as a family matter, and I shall +never forget the comfort and strength that came to us in one of the +early years through a letter from Mr. Dayton. It was written on Sunday +afternoon, and contained words to this effect: "To-day was the time +appointed for the annual offering for foreign missions in our church. +Before going to church I gathered the family together and talked to the +children about you as our representatives in Syria. Then we united in +prayer at the family altar for God's blessing on you. At church I placed +in the collection my check for the amount I have pledged to the Board +for your support." Through letters and visits in the home when on +furlough, this delightful relation has grown more and more precious as +the years have passed, and it has been a pleasure to acknowledge that we +come from Private Funds, which, we are sure, is situated in the State of +Felicity, in the United States of Brotherly Love. + +It has been said that a missionary furlough is an excellent thing if it +is not needed too urgently. We have had two most thoroughly enjoyable +furloughs in the homeland, during our missionary life. Each visit to +America has tended to refresh and invigorate us most admirably for a new +period of service and we have added many to the circle of friends who +encourage us in our work and keep vigorous the connecting link with the +workers at home. The periods of our absence from America have had a +curious coincidence with the change in methods of locomotion in America. +When we first came to Syria in 1888, the horse car was still supreme in +American cities. Experimental lines of electric trolleys were being +tried in certain places, but I had never seen an electric car. When we +returned to America in 1897, we found the trolley in all the cities, and +I remember being disturbed, the first Sunday in Philadelphia, by a +strange whirring sound during the morning service. I could think of no +explanation except the weird creaking of the great water wheels in +Hamath, but there were no such waterworks in Philadelphia. I soon became +familiar with the hum of the trolley. + +During that first furlough, there was much written in the magazines +about automobiles, and people were wondering whether the auto would +really be practicable, but I did not see a machine. Our first sight of +an auto was in Cairo, in Egypt. We reached America on our second +furlough in 1908, and the first day on shore gave us our first ride in +an auto, which we found rapidly taking a recognized place in American +everyday life. Again the magazines had much to say about the aeroplane, +but we did not see one while in America. My first sight of a human flyer +was at Allahabad, in India. It looks now as if a ride in an aeroplane +might not be a strange experience in our third furlough. + +The meeting of earnest Christian workers all over the land, in +conventions and missionary meetings, is a real refreshment physically +and spiritually. So long as the missionary's health is good, he finds it +a joy to speak for the cause and mingle with the workers at home. I +traveled a good many miles to meet appointments on each furlough. I +spoke on many platforms, and the cordial welcome extended and the close +attention paid to the message were an ample reward for whatever there +was of fatigue in the service. Many times I felt humiliated by what +seemed to me the extreme and unmerited deference paid to us, simply +because we were foreign missionaries. So far as Syria is concerned, the +missionary of to-day asks for no sympathy on the score of physical +privations. We are in close touch with European and American +civilization. We can obtain whatever is necessary for physical wellbeing +and comfort. The climate is not excessively enervating and we can have +good homes. There are many things that are trying in the life of a +missionary, but no more so than in the lives of many workers in the +homeland. + +The isolation from friends and relatives is often one of the most trying +features of missionary life. When sickness or death enter the family +circle far away, it is not easy to think of the miles of restless ocean +that lie between us and them. The whole unchristian, unsympathetic +atmosphere makes life hard at times, but the compensations are so many +that it makes one ashamed to be held up as a model of self-sacrifice. +The missionary feels, as the earnest worker at home feels, and as Paul +felt years ago, when he said, "The love of Christ constraineth us." + +The first home-going was peculiarly happy, for in neither of the two +family circles had there been any break. The only changes had come by +marriage and birth. The circles were expanding, and there was no place +vacated during the period of our absence. The second going was very +different in this respect. Many who had been vigorous were feeble. Many +who had bidden us a bright farewell were not present to welcome us on +our return. Children had become men and women. There were wrinkles on +the faces and gray hair on the heads of those whom we had expected to +find still as young as we were. But, somehow, it began to dawn on us +that we ourselves were no longer counted among the young folks in the +church. + +The general recollection of those two furloughs is one of bright smiles +and cheery welcomes, helpful handclasps and a joyous fellowship. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +PERSONAL FRIENDS + + +It was one of the most delightful phases of our experience in charge of +the boys' school to find how closely the ties of love to the boys bound +them to our hearts, and to realize that with many of them it was no mere +oriental compliment when they called us their father and mother. There +are many of those lads, now growing to manhood, in whose successes we +take a parental pride, and for whose growth in all that is good and true +we pray, with parental earnestness. Among the many preachers and +teachers in all the churches and schools, we count many as most truly +our brethren and fellow workers for the Master. There are very many +Syrians in all parts of America, as well as in this land, of whom we +think in terms of truest brotherhood. It is with no sense of +disparagement to the multitude that I have selected three of the elders +in our churches for special mention. It has seemed to me, as I look back +over their lives, that there are some specially suggestive elements in +the way the Lord has led them and blessed them, which are worthy of +special note. At the same time these experiences have brought all three +into specially close relations with myself personally. I shall mention +them in the order of the commencement of my acquaintance with them. + +In 1885, before I entered the mission, I was for a few months in Syria, +merely as a visitor. It happened that the College in Beirut was +short-handed that year, and in need of an additional teacher. Dr. Bliss +asked me to help them out and so I became for two months a member of the +teaching force in the preparatory department. During this time I made +the acquaintance of a lad in the senior class of that department, named +Towfik Sallum. He was a quiet, studious lad, who made no trouble and was +always busy with his books or seeking to increase his English +vocabulary. In the brief time of my remaining in the college, my +acquaintance was slight and the memory of this boy would have passed +from my mind, had there been no subsequent association. When I became a +member of the Tripoli Station and made the acquaintance of the various +workers in the field, I found that this lad was the brother of the +preacher in Hamath. Their father had been the first preacher in that +church, and upon his death the eldest son had succeeded to his father's +position in the church, as well as to the parental responsibility for +the care and training of his younger brothers. Towfik spent some years +in the service of the mission as teacher, in intervals of his college +course. In 1892 he was graduated with honor, and in 1896 took his degree +in medicine also. He settled at once in Hamath, where he was well known +personally, and where his family associations made a valuable +professional asset. The conditions of life in ancient Hamath are +exceedingly primitive and only a small portion of the population have +any intelligent appreciation of the value of modern medicine. +Perseverance and tact won their way and a valuable practice was built +up. With increasing years and widening acquaintance, the doctor became +generally known, universally trusted, and highly respected in government +circles as well as among the people. In case the governor wished a +reliable report on any case of attack or murder, he was sure to send Dr. +Sallum to investigate. He was to be trusted to tell the truth. + +When the new constitution was promulgated in 1908, it was provided that +all religious sects were to be entitled to representation in the local +administrative courts in rotation, irrespective of the size of those +bodies. Formerly only the largest of the Christian sects had been +allowed representation. This provision gave the Protestants a right to +civil equality and they put forward Dr. Sallum as their representative. +He was accepted, and served most creditably for the term of two years. +It was then the turn of the Catholic sect to have a representative, and +the heads of the various bodies were summoned by the governor to arrange +for the choice of the new member. The governor explained the situation +and said that as the Protestants had held the office for two years, it +was now the right of the Catholics to choose a representative to succeed +the Protestant member. Then, turning to the Catholic priest, he said, +"If you have a candidate who is more capable than Dr. Sallum or who is +his equal, we shall be glad to welcome him, but if not, I should advise +you to ask him to continue in office, acting now as representative of +the Catholics." The priest replied most cordially that his sect would be +delighted to be represented by Dr. Sallum, if he would consent. In this +way the doctor has become practically a permanent member of the +governor's council, acting alternately for the Protestants and the +Catholics. At the same time the proud member of the large Greek Orthodox +sect has to give place every two years to the member chosen by the +Jacobite church. + +In 1892 I was in Homs for the administration of the sacraments. Among +those who came in on Saturday evening was Mr. Rafool Nasser, a young man +who had not been long identified with the Protestant church. He told me +that he wished to have his little girl baptized the next day. He had +been married for several years and this was the first child, so the +occasion was one of more than usual joy. The next morning, before the +service began, I saw Mr. Nasser come in and take a seat quite at the +back of the church, contrary to his usual custom. He seemed depressed +and I wondered what had occurred. When the time came for baptisms he +made no move to come forward and so I proceeded with the children who +were presented. At the close of the service I inquired into the matter, +and learned that Mr. Nasser had informed his wife the evening before +that the little girl was to be baptized the next day. His wife then +informed him that she had already had the child baptized secretly by the +priest. This explained the depression I had noticed in the father's +face. Two years later the parents stood together while I baptized the +second child, and all the others have been presented without question +for the rite of baptism. This was the beginning of my acquaintance with +Mr. Nasser, with whom I have been somewhat intimate in recent years. + +He was a man of prominent family in Homs and has been highly prospered +in business, having become one of the most substantial men of the city. +Most of the successful men of Homs owe their prosperity to business +conducted in Egypt. They spend the winters in Egypt, advancing money to +the peasants on their cotton crops and also furnishing them certain +classes of imported goods on credit. It has been a profitable business, +even to those who have not been led away by the temptation of avarice to +impose on the simplicity of the Egyptian peasant. On one occasion I was +talking to Mr. Nasser about the high standards of morality obligatory on +the true Christian merchant. He then told me the following incident in +the simplest manner. As a young man he started with his cousin on a very +small capital. They invested their cash capital in stock for their +little store, purchasing so far as they could on credit. Mr. Nasser +returned to Homs, leaving his cousin in charge of the business in Egypt. +Scarcely had he reached home when word came of the complete destruction +of their store and all its contents by fire. It was a heavy blow for the +young men, and the first impulse was to go through bankruptcy, settle up +as well as they could and give up the enterprise. Friends and creditors +came to their help and volunteered to scale down their claims and +furnish new capital for the two men to start again. They were prospered +from the beginning. After some years Mr. Rafool Nasser decided that he +was unwilling to have the friends who were so kind to him suffer from +the old loss. He wrote to his cousin, saying that he had no wish to +control his partner's action, but asking him to pay off his share of +those old losses carried by their friends after the fire, and charge the +amount against his personal account. The cousin wrote back, "Whatever +you do, I shall do also." In the light of this incident, will anyone say +that commercial honor is confined to the West? + +There was a long period of hesitation, after Mr. Nasser was convinced +intellectually of the truth of the evangelical faith, before he joined +the Church. He has explained this to me in the following way: He knew +that if he gave in his adherence to the Protestant doctrine, his +conscience would require him to give far more of his possessions than he +had been accustomed to do in the Greek church. It took a long time to +bring his will to yield. In fact, his head was reached before his purse +was opened. He gave up the conflict at last and then said, in closing +the account of his experience, "I've gotten way beyond that now, for I +have learned the joy of giving." He is not a millionaire, but the Lord +has blessed him with considerable property, and he recognizes his +position as that of steward. He has been the leading spirit in the +enterprises of the Homs church, spoken of in another place. + +About the end of the year 1895, I was sitting one evening in my study +when the bell rang, and one of my neighbors, Mr. Yusuf Faris, entered. +He laid on my desk a bundle of Turkish silver dollars, amounting to some +thirty dollars American money. He said he had been looking over his +accounts for the year and found this balance in his tithe account, and +so he wished me to use it for him in a way that he indicated, in the +furtherance of the Lord's business. This was a little matter, but it was +a true index to the man. A few years previous to this he had moved to +the city from a neighboring village. Among his motives for this move was +to avoid being forced into a political position he felt to be +inconsistent with his new position as a Protestant Christian. He decided +to open a dry-goods store in the city, but was unwilling to conduct +business in the ordinary way of the country. He rented a very small shop +and brought his stock of goods from Beirut. He decided upon a fair +profit, and set his price on the goods. People were not accustomed to +this method and so were slow to buy from the new shop. When they found +him unvarying in his prices, they went away to buy elsewhere, getting, +perhaps, an inferior article at a slightly lower price. Mr. Faris had +his full share of determination and was not to be turned back from the +course upon which he had decided. He had an unfailingly pleasant manner +with everyone, and showed no resentment at those who bought elsewhere. +For months the sales in this little shop were not enough to pay the +rent, but there was no change of policy. Gradually people began to +compare more carefully and discovered that in no case were they able to +buy the same quality of goods elsewhere for less than Mr. Faris' first +price. They began to realize that it was a distinct saving of time and +temper to avoid the long haggling over prices to which they had been +accustomed. By degrees they began to buy from Mr. Faris, and it was not +long before some of the country shopkeepers would come to him with a +list of goods and ask to have them put up without even asking the +prices. Business grew, a larger shop was necessary, two shops, three +shops, until at present his goods fill three large storerooms, while a +fourth is necessary for his office and bookkeeping. Two months seldom +pass, and often less than a month, between trips to Beirut for fresh +goods, and he and his three grown sons are kept busy handling the +undertaking. + +In every good enterprise, in Tripoli, or in presbytery, Mr. Yusuf Faris +is a leader, with clear advice and generous subscriptions. When the home +mission work of the presbytery was organized, he was one of the leaders, +and has continued to be the main support of the work. When the plans for +the Tripoli Boys' School were under consideration and there was some +danger that lack of money and other considerations might necessitate the +removal of the school from Tripoli, Mr. Faris and his sons came forward +with a generous offer of financial help, during a period of years +aggregating nearly eighteen hundred dollars. This made him the third +largest individual donor and we were glad to place his picture among +those on the wall of the school reception room. In all the intercourse +of these years, while watching the growth and development of character +in this man, there has grown in my own heart a strength of personal +attachment such as I have seldom felt for any other in America or in +Syria. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL + + +The one enterprise which stands out most conspicuously in our life in +Syria and which has absorbed more of our thought and activity than any +other, is the boarding school for boys in Tripoli. In the earlier years +of our work in Tripoli field, I found an important item to be the +selection of promising candidates from the pupils in the village schools +for further education in one of the mission boarding schools. We were +anxious to encourage the higher education of boys, for in this respect +as in many others, north Syria is more backward than other parts of the +country. Means of communication were poor and it was not an easy thing +for people to send their children to a distance of four or five days' +travel. We used every means at our disposal to persuade reluctant +parents, offering free tuition and sometimes traveling expenses and help +with clothing. By all these means we could gather, from the whole +territory, a dozen, or fifteen, or, at most, twenty boys, whose parents +were willing to send them to school. + +[Illustration: TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL _First Home_] + +[Illustration: TRIPOLI BOYS' SCHOOL _Second Home_] + +But emigration to America gradually opened the eyes of the people to the +commercial advantages of education. Ignorant parents who had gone abroad +began to send back money, with urgent instructions to put their boys in +the American schools. We found the number of applicants increasing and a +new willingness to pay, in part at least, for the education. Instead of +a dozen, we had sixty or more to provide for and the tide was rising. +Conditions were the same elsewhere and it was not easy for the other +schools to receive this larger number from our district. Why, then, +should our boys go so far from home? + +The eagerness of some of these lads to gain an education went to our +hearts, and the hardest thing we had to do was to refuse an earnest +pleader for whom we had no place left. One day in Homs a young man came +to me, pleading for a place in Sidon. He was making his own living as an +artisan, and had only a simple education. I wished to test his pluck and +pointed out all the difficulties in the way of one in his circumstances. +He had thought it all out and said he could work at his trade in the +summer vacations and earn enough for his clothing. But it was a five +days' journey to Sidon, and the cost of the journey must be provided for +in some way. There was not a moment's hesitation as he said, "I'll +walk." And he did walk, showing a manly contempt for obstacles in the +way of gaining an education. + +This growing demand for an education such as our American schools give, +with the increasing ability of many to pay the cost, seemed a clear call +for action. Our mission had been criticized for putting too much energy +and money into education, so it seemed a chance at the same time to take +a step in advance in the line of self-support. I did not wish to go +before the mission with my proposition until I had it well supported. +For this reason I wrote to Mr. George D. Dayton who has supported us +through all our missionary life, and laid the matter before him, making +two distinct requests. If such a school were to be a success, it must +have its own permanent premises, especially adapted to its use, and I +asked whether he would help us to secure this for the school. It did not +seem wise to wait however for the accomplishment of this purpose to open +the school. I was confident, myself, that the school could be made +self-supporting if the premises were provided, but I wished a guarantee +to lay before the mission, and so asked Mr. Dayton to underwrite the +enterprise to the extent of three hundred dollars a year, in case of a +deficit. He responded promptly, acceding to both requests. I was ready +then to go before the mission. Our proposition called for two things +from the Board, the addition of a missionary to our Tripoli station and +provision of rent for premises in which to open the school temporarily. +Both requests were granted and we were authorized to go ahead, even +before receiving our additional missionary. + +Ten years after opening the school, owing to removals and delay for +language study, the whole work of the station, with the addition of the +school, still rests on the shoulders of two men, who live in hope of +having their new associate, promised ten years ago. It has been like the +pursuit of a mirage or the fatuous end of the rainbow. More than once we +have given a sigh of satisfaction and said, "Well, next year, or at +latest, the year after, we shall be able to settle down to normal lines +and really do our work right." An emergency has always arisen somewhere, +our pleasant dreams have faded away, and we have settled down again to +try to carry the extra load; but each time this is done, the weight +seems to press more heavily and a sense of discouragement steals into +the tired heart. + +We were ready to begin school in 1903 and had laid in some supplies for +the coming year, when cholera appeared in the land, interfering with all +lines of travel and communication. It was decided to postpone the +opening until the next year and special plans for temporary work were +made for the various teachers. In October 1904 the Tripoli Boys' School +opened its doors, and there was every indication of hearty support. We +had planned to begin on a very small scale with only twenty boarders. We +had rented a house in which the boys were to sleep and study, the +kitchen and dining room being in the basement. Before the day of opening +we had thirty-two insistent applicants and wanted very much to receive +them all. Rooms were rented across the street for study and recitation +purposes, releasing for a dormitory the large room before assigned to +study. This, with extra crowding of the beds, made room, and the whole +number were admitted. The beds were very crude, being merely boards laid +across rude iron supports. Everything was as simple as possible. + +We were all inexperienced in school administration and had about as much +to learn as did the boys, but that first year was a year of real +delight. The school was small and the family feeling was encouraged in +every way. Every Sunday evening the boys came to our home for a social +sing, and we learned that the neighbors looked forward to the enjoyment +of the volume of boyish voices that rang out on the evening air. In the +middle of the year it was possible to transfer the school to much more +commodious quarters, where all school and household functions could be +under one roof. The most satisfactory feature, perhaps, was the +financial outcome. When the books were closed, at the end of the year, +there was no deficit to be provided for, and so our highest +anticipations seemed to be justified. This has continued to be the +normal record of the school, the current income providing for the +current expense, excepting the item of rent. The second year we were +able to start in with American desks, and iron beds in the dormitories, +and had an enrollment of sixty pupils. + +A detailed history of the school would make this chapter too long, but +its growth and success have meant a great deal to us in our missionary +life. In 1909, when we returned from our second furlough, we had a +sufficient building fund to justify definite plans for the permanent +home of the school. It was not easy to decide on the best location. +Every place suggested had advantages and disadvantages. We could not +visit any locality in the most casual way without very largely +increasing the value of land in the vicinity. We looked at land near +the sea, in the gardens, on each side of the city, but gradually all +minds turned to an olive orchard on the brow of the hill just north of +the city. It might not be possible to purchase it, but we all agreed +that it was the place we wanted, if it could be obtained. Inquiry +revealed the fact that this piece of property belonged to a family of +brothers and sisters who held it as joint heritage from their father. +One of the brothers got the whole into his possession, excepting the +share of one sister, whose claim was something less than one-twelfth. +Her husband was an avaricious fellow who thought he could hold us up for +whatever he might demand. We purchased the remainder of the property, +but could do nothing toward building until our partner's share should be +set off and a legal division made. We proposed every possible division +but nothing was acceptable. We tried the courts and found it almost as +hopeless as Dickens' picture of chancery. Finally an amicable +adjudication and division out of court was arranged by common friends. +We went to the hill with professional measurers and proceeded to lay off +our partner's portion. When he was convinced that we would prefer to +give him at the north end, he promptly announced that he would take the +south part, which was after all much to our advantage. Then the boundary +was laid out very exactly, giving him his full share. After the peg had +been carefully set, his son petulantly moved it a foot or more farther +on our side, evidently intending to irritate us into a refusal of the +division. We consented, however, the division wall was erected, the +legal papers drawn up and our property was secured. + +The next step was to obtain a building permit from the government. Every +official is suspicious of every other, and each is watching for a chance +to enter a complaint against the other. From one office we went to +another, with favorable reports from the city engineer, but nothing was +accomplished. There seemed to be no valid objection anywhere, and we +were assured that the permit would be sent back as soon as our petition +reached Constantinople. After long waiting, instead of the permit there +came back another series of inquiries on points already fully explained. +Preliminary work on cisterns, foundations and preparation of stone was +in full progress, but the winter passed and no permit was received. At +last a new governor came to Tripoli who for some reason took a personal +interest in bringing the matter to a conclusion. He sent vigorous +letters and telegrams to Constantinople and in due time the permit was +issued, and at the end of May 1912, work was begun on the building +proper. Every means was used to push work forward as fast as possible, +through the summer and fall, so as to have the roof on before the rains +came. The walls were completed, the roof timbers in place, but where +were the tiles? These had been ordered long in advance, and were known +to be on the way. Just at this unfortunate moment war between Turkey and +Greece was declared and it appeared that our tiles were coming in a +Greek steamer, which could not now approach a Turkish port. The fall +rains came down on our roofless building and it was not until January +that the tiles were received. When they arrived, there was great +rejoicing. The workmen all left their tools to help unload the wagons. +The schoolboys went up on the hill and, forming lines from the ground to +the roof of the building, passed up the tiles from hand to hand with +shouts and songs of joy. No damage had been done the building, since the +rains tended to set the stone walls and cement flooring more perfectly, +but the plastering and carpenter work for the interior were delayed, and +the precious rain water for the cisterns was lost. + +After the roof was finished, work progressed rapidly and the utility and +beauty of the building developed every day more and more clearly. When +Easter vacation came everything was ready, and in the absence of the +boys, the school furniture was moved up to the new building so that all +was in good order when vacation was over. The new term opened in the new +home. + +On May 21, 1913, the day was given over to the dedication of the new +building, and a happier day than that has not come in the history of the +school. In the forenoon, there were races and athletic sports, with a +football game on the playground behind the building. In the afternoon, +hosts of friends and neighbors inspected the building and grounds, and +at four o'clock the Assembly Hall was crowded with the pupils and their +friends. On the platform sat the governor and president of the +municipality, with the missionaries and teachers. The boys sang heartily +their songs of welcome and a special dedication hymn written for the +occasion from the text, "Except Jehovah build the house, they labor in +vain that build it." Their voices rang out especially as their +handkerchiefs waved in their own school song in honor of T. B. S. + +This building is rich in significance, for it is a memorial throughout. +The main fund was raised in honor of my father, and so the building is +to be known as the Henry A. Nelson Memorial. Smaller sums were given as +special memorials to relatives of the givers, and the bell in the tower +was given by parents of a young man, their only son, who was called to +the heavenly home just before his twenty-first birthday. Those parents +have the comfort of feeling that their son's voice is still calling in +the tones of that bell to the lads of Syria, and so still serving the +Master. + +Our rejoicing in the new building was great, but not complete. With all +our efforts it was not possible to finish the top story of the building, +and the friends of the school will have plenty of opportunity to help us +improve and increase our facilities in the service of the youth of north +Syria. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +MOVING + + +In 1910 the Syria mission decided upon an advance. The constitution had +been declared in Turkey and everyone hoped that a new era had really +begun for the people of the empire. Whatever might be the political +results, there were clear signs of industrial improvement. The German +railroad was being pushed toward Bagdad. Work was progressing rapidly on +the line from Tripoli to Homs. There could be but little doubt that the +importance of Homs as a commercial center would be greatly enhanced in +the near future. The strong evangelical community had been urgent for +years that a missionary family live in Homs. This was finally decided +upon and the choice of the mission fell on us. There are very few houses +for rent in Homs, and hence it seemed necessary to plan for a +missionary residence as soon as possible. An appropriation was made from +the Kennedy bequest for this purpose, and a piece of land was acquired +from the management of the Syrian Evangelical Boarding School. + +[Illustration: HOMS] + +[Illustration: HEATHEN TEMPLE AND MOUNT HERMON] + +Moving in Syria is a different proposition from what it is in America. +There are no professional packers. The missionary must do his own +packing, if he would avoid excessive breakage. He must keep an eye on +the porters as they put his goods in the wagons. He must oversee the +freight men as they stow away the goods in the cars. At the Homs end of +the line every piece had to be carried to its destination on the back of +a donkey or a mule. It was no easy matter to balance some of the large +boxes on the insecure saddles, but it was all accomplished with time and +patience, with very little injury. + +We secured a little house in the city for six months, which could be +occupied while the new house was in process of erection. It was a +curious little place but the owner was very proud of it. There was a +minaret directly across the narrow street, so we had the call to prayer +almost over our heads five times a day. The section of the city was +known as the Grass Market, because it was occupied largely by +greengrocers. We were awakened early every morning by the merchants +calling their wares and all day long could hear cries like this: "Oh, +plums, O generous one, a penny a pound: health and strength come from +God, Oh, plums, Oh, plums." The woodwork and windows of this little +house were so poorly constructed that it was impossible to keep anything +clean. The strong wind, which gathered up straw and dirt, seemed to +discharge its load all day long in the various rooms of that little +house. + +In October the new mission house was ready for occupancy and we gladly +made the transfer to this permanent home. The city of Homs is perfectly +flat and quite compact. The streets are narrow and crooked, the houses +low, usually but one story high. The better houses are built of black +volcanic stone and the poorer houses of sun-dried brick. As a rule the +street wall is a dead blank surface, with merely a doorway admitting to +the inclosed courtyard. All this gives the city a dull, depressing +appearance. The old city was surrounded by a wall and a deep moat, and +at the south side, on a high hill, was the ancient castle faced with +black stone. This castle has been a complete ruin for over seventy years +and the city has outgrown its walls and spread across the moat. + +The Evangelical School and the American mission house lie to the south +of the castle hill, on a rise of ground among the vineyards. Many houses +are being built near us, but we are still the vanguard to the south. +Directly opposite to us on the north side of the city is the great +mosque of Sayid Khalid, said to have cost sixteen thousand pounds. It +is a beautiful building, but recently completed. Between us and it lies +the old city, with its seventy thousand plain people. At present a vast +majority of the population look to the north rather than to the south, +but it is our strong hope that the more vital strength represented by +Christian education and Christian homes will win the victory over this +great city and the surrounding country, so that all shall be won for +Christ. + +[Illustration: HAMIDIYEH MOSQUE _Tripoli_] + +[Illustration: OLD CITY GATE _Tripoli_] + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +THE MUEZZIN OR THE BELL + + +As the close of this little record comes near, there appears before me a +contrast or a conflict. Shall Syria continue, as in the past, dominated +by the minaret and all it signifies, or shall the church bell be heard +more clearly and more truly than it has been in the past? + +Many years ago, in the city of Homs, the large and influential Orthodox +Greek community wished to put up a bell in their church. This was found +to be wholly impossible because of the unyielding bigotry and hostility +of the Moslem community and the government. Finally the bishop consented +to hang up a slab of hard, thoroughly seasoned wood, and this was struck +with a mallet at the time of worship, to call the people together. After +quite a long interval, when the controversy was largely forgotten, this +wooden slab was quietly exchanged for one of steel, and a clearer sound +was obtained. This created a little disturbance, but was quickly +accepted as an accomplished fact, for it is a common saying in Turkey: +"Whatever is done is permitted. Whatever is requested is forbidden." +After another long interval a large bell was sent from Russia for this +Homs Church of the Forty Martyrs. In view of the relations of Turkey to +Russia, no open opposition could be shown, and the bell was brought with +great demonstrations of joy and put in its place where it rings to call +the people to worship. Following the lead of this strongest of the +Christian communities, all the others have brought bells since, and they +are in regular use. But the near city of Hamath waited some years longer +before hearing its first regular church bell. + +Many years ago an old sheik in Tripoli was calling on me. He was +intelligent and friendly and I felt that I could speak with him +somewhat freely. When I said to him that the voice of the muezzin in the +neighboring mosque was not so clear as it might be, he told me the +following incident in his father's life: The French consul in Tripoli +lived near a mosque. The muezzin had a musical voice, and the consul +enjoyed hearing the call to prayer in the summer evenings. For some +reason this man was removed and another put in his place, whose voice +was harsh and unpleasant. A few days later the consul arrayed himself in +official style, and with the attendance of his cavasses in full regalia, +he went to call on the old sheik, the father of my informant. It was not +a feast day nor time for official calls, so his coming in this manner +created some astonishment and a little uneasiness. After the ordinary +salutations had been exchanged, the consul addressed the sheik in formal +manner, to this effect: "I have come to-day, officially to convey to +you my own personal thanks and that of the government I represent for +the great favor you have done me." The sheik was even more astonished at +this opening, and protested that nothing worthy of such recognition had +been done. "Yes," said the consul, "you may not have been aware of the +great kindness done, but it is no less worthy of note. In the mosque +near my house there was a muezzin who gave the daily call to prayer in a +voice that went to the heart of the hearer, and it would not have been +strange if he had won my allegiance to Islam. Now, however, he has been +removed and a man with a harsh, repellant voice put in his place, so +there is no longer any danger that the representative of a Christian +nation should deny his faith and follow Islam. For this reason, I convey +to you officially and personally my most profound thanks." No sooner had +the caller taken his leave than orders were sent to have the +sweet-voiced muezzin restored to his former position in the vicinity of +the consulate. The keen consul had gained what he wanted and what a +direct request might not have accomplished. No offense was given and all +were pleased. + +After he had told me this story, I said, "Sheik Ali, there are two +things which I grudge to you Mohammedans; one is the custom of summoning +people to divine worship by the call of the human voice rather than by a +metallic bell; and the other is the exclusive use among yourselves of +the salutation, 'Peace be to you.'" When one Moslem meets another, he +salutes him, "Peace be to you," and the other responds, "And on you be +the peace of God." A Moslem will never intentionally give this +salutation to a Christian. I continued, "That salutation belongs to the +Christians more than to you, for it was the farewell message from our +Master to his disciples, when he said, 'Peace I leave with you; my peace +I give unto you.'" + +Which is it to be in Syria? Shall the separation continue, and one large +part of the population heed the call to prayer by the human voice from +the minaret, while another part worship the same God in the churches in +answer to the summons of a bell? This unfortunate state of affairs will +never cease until the heart of the Christian Church is so full of the +love of Christ and his perfect peace that the Moslem population shall +hear through them a louder cry than the voice of the muezzin, calling +them to worship the one living God, and to know him through the perfect +life of his only Son, our Lord. "Come unto me, all ye that labor and are +heavy laden, and I will give you rest." + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Silver Chimes in Syria, by W. S. 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