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diff --git a/44075-0.txt b/44075-0.txt index d442141..d16d277 100644 --- a/44075-0.txt +++ b/44075-0.txt @@ -1,41 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Embassy to the Eastern Courts of -Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat, by Edmund Roberts - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Embassy to the Eastern Courts of Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat - In the U. S. Sloop-of-war Peacock, David Geisinger, - Commander, During the Years 1832-3-4 - -Author: Edmund Roberts - -Release Date: October 30, 2013 [EBook #44075] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EMBASSY TO THE EASTERN COURTS *** - - - - -Produced by Henry Flower and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - - - - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44075 *** EMBASSY TO THE @@ -17059,362 +17022,4 @@ p. 406 "Free casts" End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Embassy to the Eastern Courts of Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat, by Edmund Roberts -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EMBASSY TO THE EASTERN COURTS *** - -***** This file should be named 44075-0.txt or 44075-0.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/0/7/44075/ - -Produced by Henry Flower and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Embassy to the Eastern Courts of Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat - In the U. S. Sloop-of-war Peacock, David Geisinger, - Commander, During the Years 1832-3-4 - -Author: Edmund Roberts - -Release Date: October 30, 2013 [EBook #44075] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EMBASSY TO THE EASTERN COURTS *** - - - - -Produced by Henry Flower and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - - - - - - - - - EMBASSY - TO THE - EASTERN COURTS - OF - COCHIN-CHINA, SIAM, AND MUSCAT; - - IN THE - U. S. SLOOP-OF-WAR PEACOCK, - DAVID GEISINGER, COMMANDER, - DURING THE YEARS 1832-3-4. - - BY - EDMUND ROBERTS. - - NEW YORK: - HARPER & BROTHERS. - - 1837. - - - - -Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1837, - -In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of -New York. - - - - - TO THE - HON. LEVI WOODBURY, - THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, - - BY - HIS FRIEND AND FELLOW-CITIZEN, - THE AUTHOR. - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -Having some years since become acquainted with the commerce of Asia and -Eastern Africa, the information produced on my mind a conviction that -considerable benefit would result from effecting treaties with some of -the native powers bordering on the Indian ocean. - -With a view to effect an object apparently so important, I addressed a -letter to the Hon. Levi Woodbury, then a Senator in Congress from the -state of New Hampshire, detailing the neglected state of our commerce -with certain eastern princes, and showing that the difference between -the duties paid on English and American commerce, in their dominions, -constituted of itself a very important item in profit, in favour of the -former. - -Subsequently to this period, Mr. Woodbury was appointed to the -secretaryship of the Navy, and consequently became more deeply -interested in the success of our floating commerce. - -Scarcely had his appointment been confirmed before the melancholy news -arrived, that the ship Friendship, of Salem, Mass., had been plundered, -and a great portion of her crew murdered, by the natives of Qualah -Battu. - -As an important branch of our commerce to the pepper ports on the -western coast of Sumatra was endangered, by the successful and hostile -act of these barbarians, it was deemed necessary that the piratical -outrage should be promptly noticed by a national demand for the -surrender and punishment of the aggressors. - -About this period, the U. S. ship-of-war Potomac was nearly ready to -proceed to her station on the western coast of South America, by way of -Cape Horn, but her destination was immediately changed for the western -coast of Sumatra, accompanied by instructions to carry into effect the -measures of government against the inhabitants of Qualah Battu. - -As our government was anxious to guard against any casualty which -might befall the Potomac in fulfilling her directions, it resolved to -despatch the United States' sloop-of-war Peacock and schooner Boxer, to -carry into effect, if necessary, the orders of the first-named vessel, -and also to convey to the courts of Cochin-China, Siam and Muscat, -a mission charged to effect, if practicable, treaties with those -respective powers which would place American commerce on a surer basis, -and on an equality with that of the most favoured nations trading to -those kingdoms. - -A special or confidential agent being necessary to carry into effect -the new measures of government, I had the honour to be selected for -that duty, at the particular recommendation of the secretary of the -Navy. - -The summary chastisement of the inhabitants of Qualah Battu, and the -complete success of Com. Downes, in the performance of the duties -assigned by government, rendered a visit from the Peacock to that -place unnecessary, and thus left the objects of the mission more fully -open to a complete and minute investigation. How far they have been -faithfully accomplished, I leave to the candid and impartial judgment -of those who peruse the details of the Embassy, in the following pages. - -At the period of my visit to the courts of Siam and Muscat, American -commerce was placed on a most precarious footing, subject to every -species of imposition which avarice might think proper to inflict, as -the price of an uncertain protection. - -Nor was it to pecuniary extortions alone that the uncontrolled hand of -power extended. The _person_ of the American citizen, in common with -that of other foreigners, was subject to the penalties of a law which -gave the creditor an absolute power over the _life_, equally with -the property, of the debtor, at the court of Siam. As an American, -I could not fail to be deeply impressed with the barbarity of this -legal enactment, and its abrogation, in relation to my own countrymen, -detailed in the Embassy, I consider as not the least among the benefits -resulting from the mission. - -With the courts of Siam and Muscat, it will be seen, I was enabled to -effect the most friendly relation, and to place our commerce on a basis -in which the excessive export and import duties, previously demanded, -were reduced fifteen per cent. - -If in the attainment of these benefits some sacrifice of personal -feeling was at times made for the advantage of American commerce, the -dignity of my country was never lost sight of, nor her honour jeoparded -by humiliating and degrading concessions to eastern etiquette. - -The insulting formalities required as preliminaries to the treaty, by -the ministers from the capital of Cochin-China, left me no alternative, -save that of terminating a protracted correspondence, singularly marked -from its commencement to its termination by duplicity and prevarication -in the official servants of the emperor. The detail of the various -conversations, admissions and denials, on the part of these eastern -ministers, in the pages of the Embassy, exhibits their diplomatic -character in true, but not favourable colours. - -The unprotected state of our trade from the Cape of Good Hope to the -eastern coast of Japan, including our valuable whale-fishery, was -painfully impressed on my attention in the course of the Embassy. Not -a single vessel-of-war is to be seen waving the national flag over -our extensive commerce from the west of Africa to the east of Japan: -our merchantmen, trading to Java, Sumatra and the Philippine islands, -are totally unprotected. The extent of this commerce may be estimated -from the fact that there arrived in two ports in Java during one year, -one hundred and one ships, the united tonnage of which, amounted to -_thirty-eight thousand, eight hundred and seventy-seven tons_. To this -may be added the whale-fishery on the Japanese coast, which likewise -calls loudly for succour, and protection from the government. The -hardy whaler--the fearless adventurer on the deep--yielding an immense -revenue to his country, amid sufferings and privations of no common -order, certainly claims at the hand of that country, protection from -the savage pirate of the Pacific. Among this class of citizens too, -we may look for those bold and determined spirits who would form the -bulwark of our national navy. The protection of this important and -prolific branch of commerce is, in every point of view, a political -and moral advantage. I indulge the hope that it will become the object -of special legislation, and that the hardy sons of the ocean, while -filling the coffers of their country, may enjoy the protection of her -flag. - -The various tables relative to exports, imports, currencies, weights -and measures, in the various places visited by the Embassy, will, I -trust, be found greatly beneficial to the commercial enterprise which, -yearly, extends from the Cape of Good Hope to the China sea. They -have been compiled in some instances from direct observation, and in -others, from the best authority which could be obtained. While it has -been my special object to render the pages of the Embassy a guide -to the best interests of commerce, I have not been unmindful of the -claims which the general reader may have on a work embracing a view -of that interesting quarter of the world, the eastern and southern -portion of the eastern hemisphere; its natural scenery, productions, -language, manners, ceremonies, and internal political regulations, -will be found in the Embassy. The picture may not be at all times of a -pleasing character; it has rather been my object to give the original -impression, than to decorate it with any factitious colouring. When -visible demonstration could be obtained, I have always resorted to -it, in drawing my conclusions; and in those cases in which this best -auxiliary was denied me, I have given the testimony of travellers from -other countries, who preceded me in visiting the courts touched at by -the Embassy, and whose details have received the sanction of the world. - -The abject condition of morals among the inhabitants of the Indian -ocean, will naturally interest the philanthropist: while rejoicing in -the high moral tone of society which distinguishes his own happy land, -he will look with an eye of compassion on those regions where the -worship of the Supreme Being gives place to the mysterious idolatry of -Budha, or the external ceremonies of Confucius. - -The searcher after literary information will find in the account of -the literary institutions of China much interesting and useful matter -for observation and reflection. In relation to the strictness of her -collegiate examinations, and the high grade of learning necessary to -secure their honours, some useful hints may be derived to our own -collegiate institutions. - -In the appendix will be found a curious literary document in relation -to the aborigines of the Malay peninsula, particularly of the negroes -called Semang, accompanied by specimens of the Semang language in two -dialects, for which due credit has been given in the Embassy. - -The philologist will doubtless receive this accession to the common -stock of inquiries into the origin of language, with considerable -gratification. A philosophical investigation of the relationship -existing between the varied families of the earth, and their common -origin, may perhaps yet be based on the analogy existing between their -language and dialects. - -The phraseology of the epistolary document from the Sultan of Muscat -to the President of the United States, with that contained in the -letter from Tumbah Tuah to Captain Geisinger, at Bencoolen, furnishes -specimens of that figurative and high-wrought diction, for which the -Oriental nations are distinguished. - -As I am about to undertake another voyage to exchange the ratifications -of the treaties alluded to in the Embassy, to form others in places not -yet visited, and to extend, if possible, our commerce on advantageous -terms, still farther east than India or Cochin-China, I beg my readers -will consider the present volume as a prelude to much further and -varied information to be derived under more favourable auspices--more -intimate knowledge of eastern forms--and that caution which should ever -be the child of experience. - -In concluding my introductory remarks, I would freely acknowledge -my obligation to the works of those authors who have preceded me in -visiting the nations to which the Embassy was directed. I deemed it -important that no useful information, from whatever source derived, -should be withheld from my countrymen. Wherever ocular or audible -demonstration could be had, I have recorded the facts as they were -presented, in the most simple and unadorned manner; I had not in -view the flights of rhetorical composition, but the detail of useful -intelligence. - -My country claimed at my hands, the faithful fulfilment of arduous and -responsible duties. If, in the information furnished in the Embassy, -her requirements have been accomplished, my ambition is satisfied. - - E. R. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - PAGE - - Sailing from Boston; Arrival at St. Jago; Description; Exports; - Great Drought; Fogo; Fortifications; Sailing for Brazil; - Description of the Coast; Harbour of Rio and Distant Views; the - City; Public Garden; Boto Fogo; Botanic Garden; Population; - Public Buildings; Senate and House of Representatives 13 - - CHAPTER II. - - Sailing from Montevideo; Description of the Island of Tristan - D'Acunha; St. Pauls; Engano; Arrival at Bencoolen and - Description 29 - - CHAPTER III. - - Sailing from Bencoolen; Arrival at Crokatoa and Forsaken - Islands; Scenery; Beautiful Submarine Garden; British Frigate; - Arrival at Angier; Sailing from Angier; Bay and City of Manila; - Buildings; Population; Provisions; Labour 39 - - CHAPTER IV. - - Manila, continued; Calzada; Sea-Cucumber; Cigar-Factory at - Binondo; Exports; Duties; Weights and Currency; Exchange; - Imports; Luzon; Cavité; Hurricane; Lago de Bria; Pina; Indian - and Buffalo; Visits to the Alcade 51 - - CHAPTER V. - - Departure from Manila: Cholera; Cape Bolina; Chinese Vessels; - Pilot; Macao; Linting, Village; Whampoa; Jos Houses; Sacrifice; - Arrival at Canton; River and Boats; Description of Canton; Great - Idol Temple; Legend of the Jos House; Religious Ceremonies; - Minor Temples 63 - - CHAPTER VI. - - Budhism; Tombs of Ancestors; Ceremonies; Origin of Tumuli or - Tombs; Sacrifices to Confucius; Pan-Hwny-Pan; Infanticide; - Charitable Institutions; Government Gratuities 75 - - CHAPTER VII. - - Description of Canton; Sacking of the City; Place of Honour; - Mourning; Compass; Materials for Buildings; Houses; Principal - Offices; Duties and Penalties of Governor; Fires; Governor's - Salary; Division of Power 89 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - Literary Institutions of China; Examinations; Schools; Teachers; - School-room Ceremonies; Colleges; Domestic Commerce; Population - of the Provinces; Imports; Exports 109 - - CHAPTER IX. - - Early Commerce of China; American Trade; Hong-Merchants; - Translators; Linguists; Foreign Factories; Style of Living; - Manufactories and Trade; Physicians; Egg-Boats; Manufacturers; - Mechanics; Population of Canton 123 - - CHAPTER X. - - Weights and Measures; Money Weights; Commercial Weights; Opium; - Opium-Smokers; Mantchou Dynasty 135 - - CHAPTER XI. - - Death; Ceremonies of Imperial Mourning; Population of the - Chinese Empire; Knock-head Ceremony; Beggars; Cat and Dog - Market; Dr. B. and the China-man; Barbers; Dress of the Chinese; - the Dragon God; Slavery 147 - - CHAPTER XII. - - Climate of Canton and Macao; Meteorological Averages; Departure - from Canton for Macao and Linting; Macao; Population; - Superstitious Ceremony 162 - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Sailing from Linting to Vung-Lam Harbour, in the Province of - Fooyan, or Phuyen; Government of Shundai; Assistant Keeper of - Vung-lam; Letters to the King of Cochin-China; Catholic Priest; - Deputies from Shundai 171 - - CHAPTER XIV. - - Present of a Feast to the Embassy; Description of Arrangement; - Deputies of Hué; Extraordinary Demands--Refusal to Forward - Despatches to the Emperor; Letter of the Envoy to the Minister - of Commerce; President's Letter; Unconditional Requirements of - the Deputies 189 - - CHAPTER XV. - - Suspension of Intercourse; Failure of Mission; Departure of - Embassy from Vung-Lam Bay; Envoy's Titles; Mode of Husking - Rice; Tombs of the Dead; Fishing Boats; Absence of Priests and - Temples; Superstitions; Wild Animals; Mandarins' House; Mode of - taking Leave; Government of Cochin-China; Grades of Rank 213 - - CHAPTER XVI. - - Passage from Cochin-China to the Gulf of Siam; Arrival at - the Mouth of the River Menam; Packnam; Procession to the - Government-House; Reception; Governor; Siamese Temples; - Interview with the Siamese Foreign Minister; Prima Donna; Feats - of Strength; Siamese Females; Fire at Bang-kok; White Elephants; - Embalming; Shaving-head Ceremony and Feast; Fox-bats 227 - - CHAPTER XVII. - - Presentation at the Palace of Bang-kok; Description; Royal - Elephant; White Elephants; King of Siam; Great Temple of - Guatama; City of Bang-kok; Temple of Wat-chan-tong, and Figure - of Budha; Banyan Tree; Fire-feeders; Missionaries 253 - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - Chinese Junks; Mechanic Arts of Siam; Amusements; Dancing - Snakes; Annual Oath of Allegiance; Description of the Capital; - Embassy from Cochin-China; Education in Siam; Palace 271 - - CHAPTER XIX. - - Procession to the Funeral Pile of Wang-na, or Second King; - Origin of Budhism in Siam; Sommona Kodom; Atheistical Principles - of Budhism; Budhist Commandments; History of Siam; Government; - Titles of the King; Officers of the Government 289 - - CHAPTER XX. - - Ancient Laws of Siam; Legal Oaths; Punishment for Debt; - Divorces; Population of Siam; Stature and Complexion of the - Siamese; Division of Time; Boundaries and Possessions of Siam; - Marine of Siam; Imports; Inland Trade; Currency; Treaty of - Commerce; Table of Exports 305 - - CHAPTER XXI. - - Departure from Bang-kok for Singapore; Singapore; Commerce; - Bugis; Maritime Laws; Departure from Singapore; Straits of - Gaspar; Island of Java; Population of Java; Clothing; Dying; - Stamping; Fruits; Birds 319 - - CHAPTER XXII. - - Batavia; Burying-Grounds; Servants' Wages; Academy of Arts; - Departure from Batavia; Arrival at Angier; Departure from - Angier; Red Sea; Arrival at Mocha; Turkie Ben Al Mas; Palace of - Mocha; Currency at Mocha; Transparent Stone; Colour of the Red - Sea 336 - - CHAPTER XXIII. - - Departure from the Red Sea; Cape Rosselgate; Arrival at Muscat; - Blind Beggars; Fin-back Whales; Bedouin Arabs; Pearl Islanders; - Arab Houses; Currency of Muscat; Naval Force of Muscat 351 - - CHAPTER XXIV. - - Departure from Muscat; Arrival at Quintangony and Mozambique; - Exports from Mozambique; Imports; Departure from Mozambique; - Arrival at Table Bay; Cape of Good Hope 365 - - CHAPTER XXV. - - Algoa Bay; Imports; Population of the Cape of Good Hope; Public - Institutions; Newspapers; Departure from the Cape; Arrival at - Rio Janeiro; Departure from Rio Janeiro; Arrival at Boston - Harbour; Statistical Table 386 - - APPENDIX. - - Various Documents connected with the Work 403 - - - - -EMBASSY TO THE EAST. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - SAILING FROM BOSTON--ARRIVAL AT ST. - JAGO--DESCRIPTION--EXPORTS--GREAT - DROUGHT--FOGO--FORTIFICATIONS--SAILING FOR BRAZIL--DESCRIPTION - OF THE COAST--HARBOUR OF RIO AND DISTANT VIEWS--THE CITY--PUBLIC - GARDEN--BOTO FOGO--BOTANIC GARDEN--POPULATION--PUBLIC - BUILDINGS--SENATE AND HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. - - -The Executive having, in the year 1832, resolved on an attempt to place -our commercial relations, with some of the native powers of Asia, on a -sure and advantageous basis, orders were issued to prepare the United -States' ship Peacock, and the schooner Boxer, for that special object. - -The commanders of these vessels were required to visit certain ports -on the southeastern coast of Asia, and to make a general report on -the condition of our commerce, in relation to its security from -piratical, or other hostile acts in the Indian seas. I was honoured by -the President of the United States with the station of special agent -or envoy to the courts of Cochin China, Siam, and Muscat, for the -purpose of effecting treaties which should place our commerce in those -countries on an equality with that enjoyed by the most favoured nations. - -The Boxer, having orders to proceed on a voyage to Liberia and from -thence to join the Peacock off the coast of Brazil, left Boston harbour -about the middle of February, 1832; and on the following March we -sailed from the same port, in the latter-named vessel, for Rio Janeiro; -having on board F. Baylies, Esq., whom we were carrying to that place -on his way to Buenos Ayres, to which Republic he had received the -appointment of chargé d'affaires from the government of the United -States. No circumstance, worthy of record, occurred until the eighth -day of April, when at daybreak we discovered the isle of Sal, one of -the Cape de Verds, and ere evening closed, St. Nicholas and Bonavista -appeared in sight. We lay to on that night under the lee of Mayo and on -the following morning cast anchor in the roadstead of Porto Prayo, in -the island of St. Jago. - -The customary salute of thirteen guns, given to the town, was -immediately returned with a corresponding number. Of the weather, -considering the season, we had no reason to complain. The thermometer -ranged between 40° and 72°, rarely exceeding the one or falling below -the other; the lowest point, when we passed St. George's Bank, being -37°, and the highest, at the time the northeast tradewind first met us, -being 71°, in latitude 19°, and longitude 26°. The barometer ranged -from 29°, 97´, to 30°, 45´. - -The most perfect order and regularity prevailed on board the ship, in -every department of duty; each individual having his duties so defined -as to prevent confusion among the crew, should any of the seamen be -called suddenly to quarters, or to make, take in, or reef sails. -Among the acquisitions most useful and instructive, were an excellent -library, presented by the government to the officers, and a second -selection of books, purchased by the officers and crew, jointly. It -was a gratifying sight to behold men who might, otherwise, have been -occupied in relating idle stories, singing immoral songs, quarrelling, -or creating a mutinous spirit among their fellows, drawing useful -information from the great sources of knowledge, and extracting from -the page of history, at the same time, a fund of information and a code -of morals. - -The Cape de Verd islands belong to the kingdom of Portugal, and are ten -in number. They were discovered by Noel, in the year 1440, and contain -a population, as follows: Sal, four hundred; Mayo, two thousand five -hundred; St. Vincent, three hundred and fifty-six; St. Nicholas, five -thousand; St. Jago, thirty thousand; Fogo, ten thousand; St. Antonio, -twenty-four thousand; Brava, eight thousand; Bonavista, four thousand; -St. Lucia, uninhabited; total, eighty-four thousand. - -[Sidenote: CAPE DE VERDS--EXPORTS.] - -Among the principal articles of export from the abovementioned islands -is orchilla, a species of lichen. It is used for dying any shade of -purple or crimson, and is superior to the same kind of moss found in -Italy or the Canaries. This vegetable product glitters, as a sparkling -gem, in the royal diadem of Portugal, having been monopolized by the -crown, to which it yields an annual revenue of $200,000. The right -of purchase claimed by the crown, allows only five cents per pound. -Were it not for this unjust monopoly, orchilla would readily sell at -twenty-five cents the pound. It is exported to Lisbon, and there sold, -by the agents of the royal trader, to foreign merchants, who re-export -it to their respective countries. Salt is produced at these islands, -in large quantities, and furnishes a considerable article of export -for the United States' markets; being used for the salting of beef, -butter, &c. Heavy cargoes of it are exported, principally by Americans, -to Rio Grande and La Plata, for the curing of jerked or dried beef, -which finds a ready sale in the market of Havana. It is also purchased -by American sealers to salt the skins. In the list of fruits on this -cluster of islands, the red and black grape are conspicuous. They -furnish, converted into wine, a considerable article of internal -commerce. St. Antonio alone, says Mr. Masters, of Sal, produces, -annually, from fifteen hundred to two thousand pipes of wine. Owing to -the ignorance of the inhabitants in the process of fermentation, it is -of ordinary quality, generally unfit for transportation, and may be -purchased at the rate of ten or twelve dollars per pipe. - -If there be truth in the often-repeated assertion, that volcanic -countries produce the best wines, Fogo will export, at a future day, -a very superior article. Since the year 1827, coffee, nearly equal in -flavour to that of Mocha, has been cultivated with success. Previously -to that period, the crown had laid an almost prohibitory duty on the -importation of this article from its empoverished islanders, in order -to encourage the agricultural produce of its more extensive southern -possessions, in the vast territory of Brazil. Every planter, now, looks -on his plantation as a source of increasing profit, and within five -or six years, coffee will become the leading article of commerce from -the Cape de Verd islands. It now realizes ten cents per pound. The -remaining articles for export, are hides, skins, goats, and asses. - -We found the inhabitants, on several of these islands, suffering -extreme distress from a want of provisions, occasioned by a failure in -the periodical rains, for two successive years. At Fogo, many died from -starvation. The inhabitants of this island have, long since, annually -exported ten or twelve small cargoes of corn to Madeira, and in this, -their day of suffering, the inhabitants of that sister-island received -them by hundreds with every mark of kindness and attention. Some small -relief was likewise administered from the Peacock. - -The whole appearance of the Cape de Verds, in consequence of this -long-continued drought, was exceedingly arid; the grass assumed a -dark brown colour, similar to that which may be seen on our western -prairies, when a fire has passed over them. Nothing green was visible -in the vicinity of Porto Praya, save in the deep valleys, lying on the -outskirts of the town, where some moisture yet remained, and where -water was obtained for the suffering population. - -[Sidenote: PORTO PRAYA--FOGO.] - -The town of Porto Praya, is situated on an eminence of considerable -height, and may be approached, in front of the harbour, by two roads; -the one being on the eastern and the other on the western side. These -roads exhibit marks of great labour, bestowed in their construction; -they have been, for the most part, blasted out of the solid rock, and -extend up the side of a precipitous hill. Forty-five pieces of cannon, -of various caliber, pointed towards the roadstead, serve, at once, as a -fortification to the town and a protection to the harbour. - -Vessels bound to Western Africa, South America, or the East Indies, -generally take in refreshments at this port, which affords a safe -anchorage for vessels at all seasons of the year, excepting the month -of September. During this month it is visited by a violent gale from -the south, that would place in the most imminent danger any vessel -which might seek for security beneath the bold and rocky precipice that -rises in many places, nearly perpendicularly, one hundred and twenty -feet above the shore. - -At the summit of this rocky acclivity is the plain on which Porto -Praya is built, and where a large open square, from which three or -four streets diverge, serves as a market-place. Within this square -is a building used for a jail. On its eastern side are situated the -governor's house and a church; the latter being the only place for -religious worship in the town. - -At the request of the governor, Capt. G. and myself paid him a visit. -We were received with courtesy and affability. He is of noble family, -not quite thirty years of age; and on this occasion was bedecked -with six orders of merit, which he frequently gazed on with apparent -satisfaction and delight. The houses here are generally built of -stone: those facing the public square are two stories in height, and -well stuccoed; on the western side, many of them commodious, well -finished and furnished, and fastidiously neat in their appearance. A -gallery, resting on a precipice seventy or eighty feet high, extends -along their rear, and commands a prospect of neat gardens, securely -walled in, and laden with tropical fruits, vegetables, and flowers. We -observed several negro girls, in the valley beneath, drawing water for -the inhabitants of the town, and, with well filled jars, winding their -way up the side of a zig-zag and dangerous path on the hillside. As the -eye followed their ascent up the fearful height, from which a false -step would have dashed them in pieces, we could not but admire the -seeming ease with which they balanced their vessels, and the apparent -disregard of danger displayed by them as they frequently bent, in -wanton sportiveness, over the projecting crags of the precipice. - -The population of Porto Praya is said to amount to fifteen hundred or -two thousand, nineteen twentieths of which are black or of doubtful -origin. As a suitable return for the hospitality we had received -from the inhabitants, a supper and dance were given to them on the -quarter-deck of the Peacock, which was fancifully decorated with -evergreens and flags; that of Portugal holding a conspicuous station. - -We found fish in abundance in the waters around Porto Praya, and by the -help of a seine obtained a good supply, among which we found the mullet -and red grouper. Two lancet-fish were also taken: these singular fishes -are furnished on each side of the tail with a weapon resembling the -spring lancet, which they use both in defence and attack. The date-palm -flourishes in the valleys, and all the intertropical fruits may be -obtained in abundance in their proper season, and vegetables at all -seasons. - -Having replenished our diminished sea-stock, we sailed from Porto -Praya on the thirteenth of April. After clearing the roadstead, we -had a clear view, to the west, of Fogo; its towering altitude rising -thousands of feet above the bosom of the ocean in which its base was -laid. This ocean-mountain bears evident marks of its volcanic origin. -Volumes of smoke were seen issuing from its numerous craters, so long -as its bold outline was distinctly defined. Ere sunset, the Cape de -Verds were completely hid from the view, and we stood south, inclining -to the eastward, until the eighteenth, when we reached the latitude -of 3° 31´ north, and 21° 41´ west longitude. We now shaped our course -more to the westward, and on the nineteenth, being in latitude 2° -22´ north and 22° 8´ west longitude, we took in a light breeze from -the south and east, and crossed the equator on the twenty-second, in -longitude 23° 30´. The usual ceremonies of a visit from Neptune, which -not unfrequently terminate in quarrels and fights, were judiciously -dispensed with. An attempt was, however, made to play a trick on the -uninitiated, which for a short time afforded much mirth and amusement. -A hair was placed across the centre of a telescope-glass, and handed -round, for the purpose of _seeing_ the equatorial _line_; but a young -midshipman having obtained another glass, _in which he could not see -the line_, the trick became at once discovered. To make some amends -to the crew for the loss of their usual frolic on crossing the line, -a modicum of good punch was served out in the evening, when it was -found that out of the whole number there was one-eighth (or twenty-one -men) belonging to the "total abstinence" society; a proportion which -I suppose to be as large as could be found among the same number of -landsmen. - -With pleasant breezes and moderate weather, we proceeded on our course, -keeping the ship one point from the wind, so that a foretop studding -would draw. At day-dawn on the third of May, we discovered Cape Frio, -and at ten o'clock, A. M., the Sugar-loaf at the entrance to the -harbour of Rio Janeiro. From the time we discovered the cape until the -following evening, a most perfect and, to us, annoying calm prevailed. -A brisk gale at length sprung up from the southwest, accompanied by -thunder, lightning, and rain: so stormy, dark, and tempestuous was -the evening, that we only occasionally obtained a glimpse of the -fine revolving light on Raza island: at intervals, a vivid flash of -lightning would disclose to us the Sugar-loaf mountain and a small -twinkling light at Santa Cruz. The bearings of the principal points of -land having been obtained, before the evening closed, notwithstanding -the war of elements, we dashed onward in fine style under three -topsails. As we came abreast Santa Cruz, we were hailed, and answered; -but not heaving to, three guns were fired, followed by the burning of -as many "blue-lights." We now proceeded up the harbour, and cast anchor -at ten o'clock. The city was saluted the following day, and the salute -answered by an equal number of guns. - -[Sidenote: RIO DE JANEIRO--HARBOUR.] - -The seacoast from Cape Frio to Rio is remarkable for the boldness -of its features, possessing various obtuse peaks and mountains; but -southward of the harbour is a remarkable range of hills, presenting a -rough profile of a human countenance lying with its face upward. It is -formed by a table-mountain and two jagged hills: the resemblance is so -striking at the first view that no force of imagination is necessary to -complete the picture. - -No one can enter this harbour without admiring the beautiful panorama -which is spread before him. At the entrance, called the Pao de -Assucar, the celebrated granite peak is seen, piercing the clouds, -at an altitude of thirteen hundred feet, and the prospect is every -where varied and magnificent. Nature seems, here, to have spread a -banquet for her adoring admirers. Every spot is covered with beautiful -flowers; even the rocks are festooned with various parasitical plants, -which exhibit a perennial bloom. The harbour is surrounded with wooded -hills, studded here and there with a chapel, a venerable church, or -a beautiful villa. The imagination has free scope to picture forth -scenes of bliss in the numerous valleys, where peaceful cottages lie -partially concealed amid groves of orange and lemon, lime and citron. -On the bosom of this spacious harbour may be seen, tranquilly reposing, -the vessels of all nations; and the water is dotted in every direction -with boats issuing from the numerous inlets and islands, from the -first blush of morn to dusky night, laden with passengers for the -city-market and the shipping. These boats are managed by slaves. This -harbour, called by the natives Nitherohy, was discovered on the first -day of January, 1531, by De Souza, and named Janeiro, or January river, -as he supposed it to be an outlet to a great river, from the extent -of its bay. It will probably ever retain, as at present, its name, -notwithstanding the extreme absurdity of calling a bay a river: for it -was soon ascertained by discovery, that no large body of water emptied -into it. - -The city of St. Sebastian, better known to the commercial world by the -name of Rio de Janeiro, lies on the southern shore, skirting the base -of several prominent hills and occupying the valleys between them; from -Boto Fogo to its western extremity it measures nearly eight miles. The -most conspicuous buildings are the numerous churches and chapels--the -bishop's palace--the theatre--and the royal palace, fronting the -harbour, at the great landing for boats and vessels from Rio Grande, -the town on the opposite shore. The streets, regularly laid out, -intersecting each other at right angles, are not more than twenty feet -wide, and wretchedly paved. The sidewalks are narrow and inconvenient -for a town thronged with people. The houses are generally built of -unhewn granite, and are from one to three stories high; they are -furnished with balconies, which are much resorted to by the ladies, who -seldom visit the streets during the daytime, excepting in sedan chairs, -when they attend to their devotional exercises. - -Owing to the extreme heat of the climate, the encumbered state of the -streets, and a due regard to the Portuguese custom which forbids their -walking abroad during the day, the ladies of the city take the evening -for visiting. In beauty, elegance and accomplishments, they sink in the -comparison with their neighbours of Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. - -The houses, excepting those occupied by the richer classes, are dark, -narrow, and filthy; and if this Augean stable be not cleansed from the -accumulated filth of ages, ere the cholera shall visit it, thousands -will be swept away. - -A stranger is surprised, in passing through the streets, at the immense -number of shops which occupy the ground floor of nearly every house -in the city; yet there are said to be but few failures among their -occupants. The extravagant price charged for every article, retail, may -perhaps account for this fact. - -One of the most celebrated objects of curiosity in Rio is the -celebrated aqueduct, which is seen winding its way from the Corcovado -along the base of many hills, intersecting the streets with its double -arches, and passing over the roofs of houses to the various fountains, -which are constantly thronged with negroes, carrying jars of water -to the dwellings of their masters for culinary purposes--the kitchen -being, in many cases, in the upper story, while the ground-floor is -occupied for magazines or stables. At some of the fountains are stone -troughs, for the use of the negro washer-women, which are constantly -thronged with them, making most vociferous cries: a greater confusion -of tongues could not have been heard at the dispersion of the builders -at Babel; for there is a mixture of all the languages of Africa, from -Senegal to Angola, and from Da Lagoa Bay to Zanzibar--with Portuguese, -Spanish, French and English, and various Indian languages: making, in -the sum total, an olla not to be surpassed by the Lingua Franca of the -Mediterranean, or the bazars of British India. - -[Sidenote: RIO--SLAVERY--POPULATION.] - -Every kind of labour is here done by slaves; the heaviest burdens are -dragged by them on ill-constructed drays over a rough pavement: some of -them (principally criminals or runagates) are seen chained in various -ways, and bending under the weight of packages too heavy for their -strength. - -Slavery appears here in all its worst features and most disgusting -deformities. Notwithstanding blacks may be seen at the altars, -administering the rites of religion,--as commanders of companies or -regiments, or as custom-house officers--yet poor friendless creatures -(white and black) are seen at every step, nearly naked, covered -with loathsome diseases, badly fed, having only the steps of some -church-door or the pavement for their bed, or lying exposed to the -intense heat of a tropical sun. - -I visited many of the churches, but found them sadly shorn of their -former splendour, having in them only a few aged priests, and, -excepting on particular days, a very limited number of devotees: the -passers-by rarely lift their hats and make the sign of the cross, as -they were wont to do, when passing the sacred doors; the same neglect -is apparent when the vesper-bell strikes a few slow and solemn sounds -at the decline of day. Formerly, when its tones were heard, every -kind of labour and amusement were instantly suspended, every head was -uncovered, a silent thanksgiving offered to the Giver of all good for -mercies received during the day, and His divine aid and protection were -implored for the ensuing night. Now, almost every species of religious -observance has departed, in the overthrow of a notoriously debauched -and overgrown priesthood. - -The population of Rio is estimated from one hundred and twenty to two -hundred thousand, of which a very large proportion are blacks. No -correct census has yet been taken, owing to the jealousy of the people, -who suppose that the object of government is to impose, in such an -estimate, a capitation tax. There is a great admixture of blood among -them, from the jet black African with his curly wool, to the pure white -with flaxen locks. - -The _French residents_ are numerous, if a traveller may judge from the -names on the signs, and the endless _Parisian nothings_ exposed for -sale in the Rua d'Ovidor and the Rua d'Quitanda. Here and there are -interspersed English, German, or Italian names. Since the abdication -of the late emperor in favour of his little son Don Pedro the second, -and the breaking up of his splendid court, numerous carriages have -disappeared, and only a few humble volantes or cabriolets are seen -drawn by two mules, or perhaps by a horse and a mule. - -The _National Museum_ is situated on each side of the Campo -d'Acclamacao, and is open to the public on Thursdays. It occupies at -present but three rooms, having been sadly plundered of its contents by -Don Pedro. The specimens of minerals are numerous and scientifically -arranged; but the entomological department is meager, considering the -immense numbers and beautiful varieties of insects for which this -country is so justly celebrated: there are many private collections -in the city which far surpass this, in numbers and brilliancy. In -addition to the abovenamed department are several cases, divided -into compartments, showing, in miniature, implements of trade and -manufactures. - -The _Senate House_, on the opposite side of the square, is a very plain -edifice, badly built, and propped up in every direction with long -pieces of timber. - -On the day when the minister of the interior delivered in his budget, -I visited the _House of Representatives_. The gallery and four private -boxes were crowded. We occupied one of the latter. There were about -seventy members present, highly respectable in their appearance, -although some were of a doubtful white, and others quite black. They -were dignified in deportment, graceful in action, and spoke with great -fluency. - -_Education_ has made great progress throughout Brazil within the last -fifteen or twenty years. Beside several Lancasterian schools, supported -by government, to which are admitted, gratuitously, children of all -colours, (slaves excepted,) primary schools are to be found throughout -the city; and private schools also, in which are taught the higher -branches of education. There are also a _surgical_ and a _medical_ -academy, an academy of fine arts, and ecclesiastical seminaries. - -[Sidenote: SCENERY--PUBLIC GARDENS.] - -The city has two public libraries; one of them contains between sixty -and seventy thousand volumes, in all languages. The other is at the -Convent of St. Benedict. I visited that institution when the librarian -was absent, but was amply compensated for the tiresome walk up the -steep hill, on a hot day, over a very rough pavement, by the beautiful -views exhibited in every direction. There, were seen mountain, hill, -and dale, cultivated and in a state of nature--an ocean, a bay, a -river, and on their surfaces were floating noble line-of-battle ships, -merchant vessels, and an abundance of little skiffs. At my feet lay -the city, with its busy throng, and at every important point were -fortresses and castles, showing forth rows of formidable cannon. The -day shone forth with great brilliancy; not a cloud was seen hanging -over the Payo d'Assucar, the Corcovado or the Tejuco; numberless -vessels were seen far at sea, pressing for the port, under a cloud of -white canvass, during the continuance of the breeze. On the left lay -the palace of St. Christovao; and, in the far west, a noble range of -hills, terminated by the spiked tops of the organ mountains, rendered -the picture enchanting and unrivalled. At the foot of the hill is the -arsenal; being deficient in room, the wall of the convent, on that -side, was taken down, and the rocks being blown away, a secret entrance -was discovered under the church, so ingeniously contrived as to be hid -from observation--it appeared like the rocks in which it was formed. - -_Public Gardens._--On the bay shore, commencing near the Praya or Beach -do Flamingo, is a pleasant garden, surrounded by a high wall, and -guarded at its various entrances by soldiers. It is much resorted to -by the inhabitants after sunset. The avenues are of good width, well -gravelled, kept clean, and are finely shaded by native and foreign -trees, and with hedges of flowers indigenous to the climate; but the -pure and wholesome breezes, and a view of the bay, are obstructed by a -mound, thrown up unnecessarily high, to protect this retreat against an -ever-rolling surf. - -Looking to the right at the further extremity of the beach, along -which is a range of good houses guarded by a high granite wall, lies -the beautiful Gloria hill, having a small white turreted chapel, Nossa -Señora de Gloria, or our Lady of Glory. It is of an octagonal shape, -lies partially concealed amid noble forest and fruit trees, and is -adorned with hedges of myrtle, interspersed with jasmine: and there, - - "Weak with nice sense, the chaste Mimosa stands, - From each rude touch withdraws her timid hands; - Oft as light clouds o'erpass the summer glade, - Alarmed, she trembles at the moving shade, - And feels alive, through all her tender form, - The whispered murmurs of the gathering storm; - Shuts her sweet eyelids to approaching night, - And hails with freshened charms the rising light." - -I was much gratified with two visits made to the Botanic garden, -situated about eight miles from the palace. The first visit was by -water, as far as Boto Fogo. From thence it is probably three miles -by land over a tolerably good road, lying principally amid mountain -scenery, the Corcovado being on the right. - -This mountain, on its eastern side, is one immense mass of granite, -rising perpendicularly to the height of two thousand feet. On either -hand are plantations and gentlemen's villas. The road was overhung -with various fruits--the coffee-tree showing its red berries and the -cotton-tree its yellow bulb; or, having burst its outward covering, -displaying the contents of its little pod, as white and pure as the -new-fallen snow; the hedges were beautifully decorated by the hand -of nature with roses, myrtles and jasmines, intertwined with a great -variety of creeping plants. On the left, we passed a small brackish -piece of water, called Lake Frietas, formed by an encroachment of the -sea; which, in heavy gales and during high tides, forces itself over -the sandy barrier between the low lands and its waters. - -We arrived at noon--an unpropitious hour, for the garden was shut until -three, in the afternoon. Being desirous to employ our spare time to the -best advantage, we strolled on several miles farther to the seabeach, -through sandy plantations, covered entirely with pine-apple, then in -a green state and very small. Our toil was unrewarded, as we did not -obtain a single shell, (the shore being too sandy,) nor did we see any -object worthy of note. - -On our return, we visited the garden, and found it a delicious retreat -and in fine condition. The broad wide avenues are kept in neat order -and lined with trees of various kinds. A fine stream of water conducted -from the adjacent mountains, along neat canals, over pebbly beds, -passes through the garden and divides the compartments of exotics from -the avenues. The servants in attendance explained the endless variety -of trees, shrubs and plants, and permitted us to take specimens of -every thing we fancied. - -This delightful spot is situated at the base of the Corcovado, on a -rich plain, fronting the little lake and comprises about seventy acres. -Here are many square plots of ground, containing altogether about six -acres of tea, both black and green, of which there are said to be ten -or twelve varieties. The plant is in height about ten feet, and bears -a small, delicate, white flower; it was in a healthy and flourishing -condition. The dried tea may be obtained in the city. The amboyna and -cayenne cloves grow here; the former being much more fragrant than the -latter. We also found the nutmeg--cinnamon of several kinds, pepper, -pimento, cardamoms, the camphor and sago palm, the bread-fruit in full -bearing, many varieties of the anana or pine-apple, the orange, limes, -sweet and sour lemons, citron, the mamoon, marrow or mamee apple, the -mango and delicious mangusteen of Java, the jack and the shaddock, the -banana, the plantain, the calambolla, &c., &c. The last is a sub-acid -fruit, of an oblong form and light straw colour, when ripe; it is -deeply grooved or ridged with sharp edges and is very refreshing and -agreeable to the taste. A beautiful arbour of a square form, having -vacant openings in imitation of doors and windows, stands in the centre -of the garden, furnished with a table; it is a place of great resort -for pic-nic parties and is ascended by artificial steps, made of the -green-sward. - -The situation of Boto Fogo impresses every one who visits it, most -agreeably--it is a delightful retreat from the hot and unwholesome air -of the city and is, like the Praya Flamingo and the Gloria hill, the -residence of many respectable foreigners. The little bay, fronting the -pretty sandy beach, seems like a tranquil lake embossed in magnificent -mountain-scenery. Having replenished our partially-exhausted stock of -sea-stores, and the commodore being with the squadron at La Plata, we -were compelled, reluctantly, to proceed to that place and set sail -accordingly, on the twentieth of May. The situation of our squadron -at La Plata, arose out of difficulties which existed between the -Argentine Republic and that of the United States, consequent upon the -unlawful and unfriendly capture of American vessels, sealing among the -Falkland islands, by order of Vernet, the governor; and from the proper -and spirited conduct of Captain Duncan, commander of the Lexington, -in removing the colony to Montevideo, and thereby, most effectually -cutting off all further depredations upon our commerce. - -[Sidenote: MONTEVIDEO.] - -We received the customary assistance of boats, from the various men of -war, in towing the ship out of the harbour. As we passed the British -line-of-battle ship Plantagenet, the band of musicians struck up -our national air of "Hail Columbia." On the thirtieth, we made St. -Marys, being the northern cape at the entrance of the river. A brisk -breeze the day following, accompanied with misty weather, wafted us, -at midnight, within four miles of the isle of Flores, on which we -found an excellent revolving light--and the weather clearing up, we -saw the dull light which crowned the hill called Montevideo. Sail was -then shortened to maintain our position until daylight; but in the -course of three hours, a strong current running out of the river, had -forced us into four and a half fathoms of water, on the edge of the -English bank. We anchored, on the second of June, in the roadstead -of Montevideo, near the United States' ship Lexington. On the next -morning, we again sailed, with a strong easterly gale, for Buenos -Ayres, and at noon anchored in three and a half fathoms of water, off -Pinta de India, in thick weather and a bad sea. In the afternoon, it -became sufficiently clear for us to obtain a glimpse of the tops of -some trees; sail was again made and on the fifth, we came too, in -the outer Balissas, near to the United States' ship Warren, under -the command of Acting-Commodore Cooper, and the schooner Enterprise, -commanded by Lieutenant-Commodore Downing. Having landed Mr. Baylies -and family, and taken in provisions for our voyage across the South -Atlantic and Indian oceans, we sailed on the nineteenth, and in four -days arrived at Montevideo. As we passed to our anchorage ground, H. -B. M. frigate Druid, A. R. Hamilton, commander, complimented our flag -by her musicians playing "Hail Columbia," which cheered our hearts and -created a kindly feeling in us towards our English brethren. Many years -previous to this visit to La Plata, I had resided many months at Buenos -Ayres, and had become acquainted with a number of worthy men and lovely -females, who then shone with great brilliancy at the Tertulias, in the -Bolero and Pas-a-pie, but time had changed the faces and condition of -the living--death had been busy among all classes and many a friend -and acquaintance had gone to the eternal world, amidst the various -revolutions. The splendid churches were shorn of their ornaments and -a few solitary priests, superannuated and on the brink of the grave, -were seen tottering through the deserted aisles and cloisters, where -hundreds had once been, and where the resounding of my own footsteps -now made me start, and look back to see if any of the departed had -returned to wander within their former haunts, and deplore, though they -were wont to be called holy, their numerous imperfections. A regal -government has now given place to one of another stamp; but the great -number of armed men in the streets and about the public buildings, have -divested it of much of its republican character. A Protestant church -is now erected, and English names are frequently seen over the doors -of buildings where once a foreign merchant was not permitted to dwell. -To me, it seemed like traversing a vast sepulchre--so many had closed -their eyes in death, while others appeared like spectres of former -days. It was like a city once in ruins, but which had been freed of its -incumbrances, and was again ushered into light and life, peopled by a -new generation. - -Montevideo also had met with unparalleled sufferings from the time -that it was besieged by the British to the present hour. The beautiful -cathedral was disfigured by marks of cannon-balls--the walls were -partly demolished--the gates broken down--the cannon removed, and not a -solitary sentinel was on the lookout from the battlements; the streets -were broken up, and full of unsightly and dangerous holes. Death, the -all-consuming hand of time, and squalid poverty, had laid a whole city -in ruins; it was like a vast cemetery; for all I once knew had been -swept away; even their names had been obliterated for ever. I therefore -left it, better satisfied to wander ten thousand miles over a trackless -and stormy ocean, than to remain in a city whose former inhabitants -were spread in dust amid its ruins. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - SAILING FROM MONTEVIDEO--DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF TRISTAN - D'ACUNHA--ST. PAULS--ENGANO--ARRIVAL AT BENCOOLEN AND DESCRIPTION. - - -Agreeably to orders from the navy department, the commander of the -Peacock was required to proceed to the west coast of Sumatra, to -ascertain whether Commodore Downes had obtained redress for the murders -and robbery committed on board the ship Friendship, of Salem, by the -natives of Qualah Battu; and if it should appear that from any cause -such redress had not been effected, then the Peacock, in conjunction -with the United States' schooner Boxer, was to proceed to Qualah Battu, -and, if possible, to obtain possession of the murderers, and transport -them to the United States for trial; and also to demand indemnification -for the heavy losses sustained by the owner. If these demands were not -complied with, the town was to be destroyed. - -The Boxer not having yet joined us, orders were left for her commander -to proceed to Bencoolen, in the island of Sumatra. On the evening of -the twenty-fifth of June, the ship got under way, from the bay of -Montevideo. As we slowly receded from the port, the feeble light on the -mount shone like a distant star through the hazy atmosphere; and the -thousand lights in the unfortunate town of San Felipé appeared like -the glimmerings of the firefly in a midsummer's night, revelling amid -the light vapours arising from marshy ground; the brilliant light on -the Flores also was in full view, throwing its extended beams far and -wide over the tremulous sea. Our progress during the night was very -slow--Flores and Lobos, and the serrated mountains of Maldonado, found -us at the dawn of day, fanning along slowly, with an air which scarcely -ruffled the ocean's surface. Nothing occurred to us beyond what -generally befalls the sons of the ocean, in running down ten thousand -miles of coasting. Scarcely were we clear from the muddy waters of La -Plata, and had launched amid the waves of the great Southern ocean, -when squally weather assailed us, and close-reefed topsails were -resorted to rather more frequently than is pleasant even to those who -live upon the mountain-wave. The ship was at one time rolling her -channels in before a strong westerly wind; at another, lying with her -broadside deeply submerged by severe squalls from the northwestern -quarter, the gun-deck being ankle-deep in water, and washing from side -to side. _Life-lines_ were secured from gun to gun to support the -constant passing of men fore and aft the deck. On the fifteenth of -July, the snow-clad mountains of Tristan d'Acunha appeared, lighted by -a brilliant morning-sun, and towering to a height estimated at between -nine and ten thousand feet. - -This island is occasionally resorted to for water, live stock, fruit, -vegetables, butter, &c.; the former may be had in abundance on the -northeast side, where, in a clear day, it may be seen rushing from -above, white as the snow on the mountain-top, and dashing on the beach, -from a cataract of fifty feet in height. Owing to the steepness of -the anchorage-ground and the frequency of sudden squalls, it is most -safe "to lay off and on," and send a boat on shore. Vessels which -prefer anchoring, run in until the watering-place bears southwest by -south, about one mile distant, where they find seventeen fathoms, in a -gravelly bottom, mixed with broken shells. - -This place was originally settled in 1811, by the unfortunate Jonathan -Lambert, of Salem, who was drowned in going to Inaccessible island. It -has ever since been occupied by an English sergeant and family, from -the Cape of Good Hope, by order of the British government, who took -possession of it, as was said, with the ostensible motive of keeping it -as an outpost to St. Helena, at the time of Bonaparte's imprisonment -there. - -It may be doubted whether a desire to prevent the Americans from -resorting to the island, as a place of rendezvous in the event of -another war, was not the real motive which actuated the British to take -it within their protection. - -On the nineteenth, having then been out twenty-three days, we -obtained soundings in sixty fathoms water, on bank Lagullus, off -the Cape of Good Hope. Dashing onward through storm and tempest, -endeavouring to keep about latitude 38° or 39°, on the sixth of -August, forty-one days from our departure from the bay of Montevideo, -we descried on the northeast the uninhabited island of St. Pauls. -As we approached from the southward and westward, it bore the exact -resemblance of a long-nosed porpoise; but when passing its eastern -extremity, and bearing off about four miles north, it appeared like a -spermaceti whale, the head being to the eastward: fronting it was a -moderately-high conical peak: its highest point would scarcely exceed -five hundred feet. Three or four days subsequently, we encountered a -very heavy gale from northnortheast, accompanied by a tremendous swell -of the ocean; during its violence, a sea of uncommon height and volume -struck the ship, and threw her nearly on her beam ends, completely -overwhelmed the gig in the starboard-quarter, crushed it into atoms -in a moment, and buried the first three ratlines of the mizen-shrouds -under water. - -It was fortunate that we escaped without further danger, as it came -thundering onward "mountains high." A universal silence prevailed -during its threatening approach: after it had passed, great -apprehensions were expressed that it would "break on board," and -completely sweep the deck. - -As we proceeded along and gradually made northings from longitude -about 90° east, the winds began to be variable and the weather warm; -greatcoats and peajackets disappeared from among the crew, and finally -white duck trousers and shirts were alone seen. The southeast tradewind -did not unequivocally set in until we had arrived in the latitude of -16°, and longitude 102°. - -[Sidenote: ENGANO--BENCOOLEN.] - -On the twenty-third of August we made the island of Engano, the -southernmost of the chain of islands which runs parallel with the west -coast of Sumatra, and which is inhabited by a vile race. From Engano, -the winds were very light and variable from the southeast, accompanied -with lightning, thunder, and rain, till the twenty-eighth, when we -anchored in the bay of Bencoolen; about midway between the Ratones or -Rat island and the point on which the Doosoon, or village of Bencoolen -or Marlborough is situated, and about three and a half miles from -either place. - -This settlement was ceded by the English to the Dutch government, -with all the British possessions in Sumatra, by the treaty of the -Netherlands in 1824, in exchange for Malacca and the claims of the -Dutch to the island of Singapore. Rat island basin is resorted to by -vessels intending to remain some time, more particularly during the -prevalence of the northwest gales from October to March; but coasting -craft always resort there during the southeast winds, which last -through the other half of the year. - -A boat, with acting Lieutenant Sinclair, was despatched to the town, -and in a short time a very polite invitation was received from J. H. -Knoerle, Esq., the Dutch resident, to breakfast with him the next -morning, and to Captain G. and myself to reside with him during the -ship's stay. By this boat we heard of the entire destruction of Qualah -Battu, by the Potomac, which happily precluded the necessity of an -unpleasant visit, and saved the officers and crew the painful duty -which would otherwise have devolved on the Peacock. The demolition of -this place struck terror into the inhabitants of all the native ports -on the coast, and will doubtless produce a salutary effect. - -[Sidenote: RAT ISLAND.] - -In the afternoon, we took a boat, and landed at Rat island. Two acres -of dry land would cover it; the coral reefs, which extend northward -and southward, are very extensive and dangerous. The island contains -four or five wretched huts, including a stone building now in a state -of much dilapidation, and a godown or magazine at the building, which -is open at the sides. In heavy westerly gales, the spray of the sea -breaks over this speck in the ocean. Fish is the chief food of the -inhabitants. The teeth of these islanders (possessed by few of them) -are of a deep black colour, and show that they are frequently employed -in chewing areca, &c. The chief man, called Rajah Mundo, is a Malay, -about seventy years of age, but still active and healthy, with features -so brown and deeply furrowed as to resemble a piece of soleleather. -When we entered his abode, a stone building, it reminded me of -Hogarth's picture of the last day, when every thing has fallen into -decay. The steps were nearly all broken down; one of the two wooden -pillars which supported the portico was decayed, and had fallen; the -roof was gone, and the walls were falling; two half-starved monkeys -stood as sentries, at the door, having something which was intended as -an apology for a tail. The other articles of furniture in this abode -consisted of two Chama gigas, or the great giant clams, the root of a -tree for seats, two broken earthen pots for cooking, and a joint of -bamboo instead of a water-bucket, which latter served likewise the -purpose of a drinking-vessel, as we found in asking for some water. -The floor, apparently, had never been washed; the ceiling was of -coal-black; and centipedes, lizards, and snails, were crawling in every -direction over the walls. In the only dry corner, lay a sick daughter, -between two mats; but the mother of the rajah formed the consummation -of this dreadful picture: at the back door stood what I suppose must -be called a human being. We started back in amazement on seeing this -frightful object, thinking her to be deranged; the horror of Macbeth, -on seeing his chair occupied in the banquet-scene, by the ghost of -the murdered Banquo, could not have been surpassed by our own on this -occasion. The words of the royal thane rushed upon my memory, and I -instinctively uttered-- - - "Avaunt and quit my sight! let the earth hide thee: - Thy bones are marrowless! - Thou hast no speculation in those eyes. - Which thou dost glare with." - - "Take any shape but that, and my firm nerves shall never tremble." - -The only article of dress on this singular being was a filthy, ragged -waist-cloth, apparently covered with vermin, from the belt of which was -suspended a long knife; her gray elf-locks scattered by the wind--her -eyes running with rheum--her face and hands covered with dirt--her body -loathsome with leprous spots; contrasted with her dark Malay skin, gave -her a truly hideous appearance; added to this, a solitary long black -tooth projected over her under lip, and her trembling and attenuated -frame displayed the influence of that baneful narcotic, opium, to -which she was addicted. Wretchedness could not portray a more faithful -picture: imagination had nothing to conceive. We gladly left this -loathsome habitation, upon a ramble about the coral reefs for shells, -and shortly embarked for the ship, rejoiced at being removed from a -horrid object, which long after haunted my imagination by night and -day. I have since learned that she is a fiend in human shape, living by -means the most diabolical. - -[Sidenote: BENCOOLEN--NUTMEGS.] - -The next morning we landed at Bencoolen, and found in waiting a -neat carriage, in which we were conveyed into a handsome park, and -subsequently to the government-house. Here we were received, at the -lower end of a long staircase, by the resident, and ushered up stairs -into the great hall, through two lines of soldiers, as fierce in -appearance as were ever exhibited on a stage: they consisted of Malays, -Sumatrans, and Javanese, from Neas and Borneo, and from the bay of -Bengal, turbaned, whiskered and mustachoed, and in some cases furnished -with long beards, armed with swords, the cris or crooked dagger, -pistols and muskets. - -A most substantial breakfast was quickly served in great variety, and -placed in the verandah, for the benefit of the air. With a cloudless -sky above, the most beautiful scenery surrounding us, and a hospitable -reception, we had nothing more to desire. The government house is -situated in a park, embosomed in flowers, fruit, and forest-trees, -guarded by line hedges and a neat bamboo fence. The road around -the grounds was lined with the male and female nutmeg-trees, the -clove-tree, and the graceful areca-palm, laden with its yellow fruit, -hanging in large clusters under the branches. Here and there were -interspersed beautiful flowering trees in great variety, and creeping -plants intertwined among the branches. The female nutmeg was loaded -with fruit resembling, in colour, a straw-coloured peach, but pointed -slightly towards the stalk, like a pear. The fruit which had become -ripe, had burst about half an inch of its outer-covering, and displayed -a beautiful network of scarlet mace, covering a black shining hard -thick shell, in which lay concealed the nutmeg itself. The bark of the -nutmeg-tree is smooth, and of a brownish-gray colour; the branches are -handsome and spreading; the leaves, elliptical and pointed, afford a -very grateful aromatic odour: on the same tree may be seen the fruit in -its progressive stages to maturity, and the white blossoms hanging in -clusters, encircled by the yellow leaves from which they have burst. -From the centre of the flower proceeds an oblong reddish knob, which is -the fruit. I was told that a tree which produces, daily, throughout the -year, one nutmeg, is considered very productive and profitable, even at -the present low prices. At the Dutch company's late sales, they brought -from fifty-two to fifty-six dollars the pecul, equal to one hundred -and thirty-three and one third pounds avoirdupois; and the mace, -from ninety-two to ninety-five dollars. The male nutmeg-tree, being -necessary to the propagation of the fruit, cannot be dispensed with; -it is generally filled with white blossoms, and interspersed among its -female companions. The operation of loosening the inner shell of the -nutmeg is a tedious process, and is performed over a slow fire; when -the shells are sufficiently loose to rattle they are broken, assorted, -soaked several times in water and lime--then placed in dry boxes or -small rooms to sweat; and finally, are packed in dry chunana or lime -made from seashells. The small and oblong fruit is not merchantable; -the best kind is large, round, heavy and firm, of a lightish-gray -colour on the outside; a strong fragrant smell; and when pricked, the -oil should readily ooze out. - -Very extensive plantations of this great article in commerce, are in -the vicinity of Bencoolen. Those which belong to the Dutch government -are twelve miles distant, on a fine road extending towards the -mountains, about one hundred miles long. I visited some Parsees, who -were busily employed in curing nutmegs and mace. Large quantities of -the latter were spread on mats, exposed to the sun, where they remain -to dry, from six to ten, and from four to six o'clock. The extreme heat -of the day dries them too much and renders them brittle and deficient -in fragrance; if placed in too moist an air they are subject to decay -and will breed worms; they should be chosen fresh, tough, oleaginous, -of an extremely fragrant smell and of a bright reddish-yellow. The -rind of the nutmeg when not too dry, is preserved in sirup and the -entire fruit, when nearly ripe, made into a delicious and ornamental -sweetmeat; it is cut part of the way down, at regular intervals and -fancifully ornamented by neat scollops, peaks, and leaves, showing at -one view the straw-coloured outer-covering, the scarlet mace, and the -inner black shell, covering the nucleus of the whole, the nutmeg. - -Pepper, another article of export to a great extent, is cultivated -throughout the island. It is propagated by cuttings or layers, as we -raise grape-vines: if suffered to trail on the ground, it produces no -fruit, and support is consequently necessary: it climbs from twelve to -twenty feet high: the blossom is white; the berries, when at maturity, -are red and much resemble branches of red currants. In a favourable -season it produces two crops. - -The only fortification which Bencoolen possesses, is at Fort -Marlborough--it is in excellent order, and situated but a short -distance from the landing-place. There are not more than fifty or -sixty Dutch soldiers in the place. The town is built on a point of -land named Onjong Carang: it is of moderate elevation--falls back -into low swampy ground, and is at times severely visited by that -fatal disease, the jungle fever: the liver complaint is also very -general. Bencoolen and the ten doosoons or villages, contain about -eighteen thousand inhabitants, consisting of a few Dutch, some of the -descendants of Englishmen, who speak the English language--Chinese, -Javanese, Bengalees, Parsees, Sumatrans, Malays, &c. The Chinese occupy -an enclosure in the centre of the town, and have a Budhist or temple: -they bear the same characteristic marks here as elsewhere, being -industrious, frugal, and thrifty. Each doosoon is governed by a rajah, -who is chosen from among themselves, and if approved by the residents, -he cannot lose his office during life, unless for the commission of -some flagrant crime. The residents and a certain number of Rajahs form -a court for the trial of all cases requiring legal investigation. If -a criminal is condemned to suffer death, a copy of the trial is sent -to the governor-general of Java, and if approved by him, the sentence -is carried into execution. It is degrading to humanity to see the -abject air with which the resident is addressed by the lower order of -Sumatrans. They stand, when they enter his presence, with an aspect -of humble submission: their bodies are bent--the palms of their hands -are seen resting on their knees, and fear is strangely marked on their -countenances. - -The Dutch Government has two schools here--they are conducted upon -the Lancasterian plan; the first, which is kept in an outer room of -the government-house, contains about twenty-five scholars. The pupils -were learning arithmetic, to write on sand, and to read from certain -portions of the New Testament printed in the Malayan language. The -translation was made and published, many years since, at the expense of -the pious and well-known philanthropist, Robert Boyle, when the place -was under the jurisdiction of the British Government, and was sent -forth into various parts of the island. The second school is in the -orphan-house, about a mile from the resident, on a piece of high ground -sloping towards the bay, of which it has a fine view: in front of this -building are several acres of land, substantially walled in with brick, -and covered with fruit-trees and vegetables. The boys are educated in -this school for agents, writers, &c. The principal articles of export -from Bencoolen, to which may be added Trippany or Bichos do Mar, and -some edible bird's-nests, have already been named. Coffee and rice are -raised here only in small quantities; they are imported from Padang for -home-consumption, and consequently are not articles for export. - -All the fruits common to tropical climates, and many which I am assured -are not known in any other part of India, flourish here in great -abundance. The animal used for domestic labour is the carbou, called -here carboo: he resembles the buffalo without any hump between the -fore-shoulders: although naturally of a dull, obstinate and capricious -nature, he acquires a habit of surprising docility; at the command of -his master, he lifts the shafts of the cart with his horns, places -the half yoke (which is secured at the end) across his neck, and then -stands quietly until he is secured. - -I have several times been amused to see three or four children climbing -on his neck, and seating themselves on his back, to take a ride. He was -easily governed, after they were seated, by a rope which passed through -the cartilage of the nose. He is a stout-built and strong animal, but -cannot endure much fatigue, and has shorter legs and larger hoofs than -the ox, with a thick sinewy neck. The horns of this animal are very -large and generally turn backward, being nearly square at the base. -Like the hog, he is fond of wallowing in the mire, and embraces every -opportunity to cover himself with it--being thus cooled and protected -from the heat of the sun, and from troublesome insects. - -The bay of Bencoolen is extensive, and so much exposed that, when -the sea-breeze commences, it throws in a heavy sea, and renders -it impossible to carry off sufficient water for a large number of -hands without causing a long delay. Owing to this cause, we were -unable readily to obtain the required supply of water; and yams and -bread-fruit being scarce, both of which we much needed, we took our -departure, leaving instructions for the "Boxer" to follow us to Manila. - -[Sidenote: DEATH OF THE RESIDENT.] - -Having taken leave of the very kind and hospitable Mr. Knoerle, the -resident, and of his companion, the Rev. W. C. Slingerland Conradi, -pastor of the Dutch Church, I shortly found myself once more on board. -I have lately received the afflicting intelligence that Mr. Knoerle, -while on a journey to Palembang, was murdered at the instigation of -some of the principal rajahs of Bencoolen. His body was literally cut -in pieces, and then burnt with great exultation, by the perpetrators -and their friends. The question naturally occurs, what could have -incited the rajahs to commit so atrocious and fiend-like an act? The -answer is--_revenge_, which is always deeply seated in the heart of a -Malay. - -Mr. Knoerle, imprudently, injured the happiness of many families by his -unrestrained passions, and thereby sealed his horrid fate. He should -ever have borne in mind that he lived among - - "Souls made of fire, and children of the sun, - With whom revenge is virtue." - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - SAILING FROM BENCOOLEN--ARRIVAL AT CROKATOA AND FORSAKEN - ISLANDS--SCENERY--BEAUTIFUL SUBMARINE GARDEN--BRITISH - FRIGATE--ARRIVAL AT ANGIER--SAILING FROM ANGIER--BAY AND CITY OF - MANILA--BUILDINGS--POPULATION--PROVISIONS--LABOUR. - - -On the last day of August, we weighed anchor at nine o'clock in the -evening, from Bencoolen bay, and aided by the current and a land -breeze, about midnight we once more found ourselves at sea. Owing to -light head-winds from the southeast, calms, contrary winds, and violent -squalls from the high mountains of Sumatra, accompanied with thunder -and lightning, we did not arrive at our anchorage ground, off the north -end of the island of Crokatoa, in the straits of Sunda, until the -eighth day after our departure from the bay. - -At daybreak the following morning, a boat was despatched in search of -inhabitants, fresh water, and yams; but, after three or four hours' -search, returned unsuccessful. Two other boats were then sent under -the command of the first lieutenant Mr. Cunningham: after a fruitless -search, that officer returned at sunset, after visiting Long Island -and Crokatoa. It was found difficult to effect a landing any where, -owing to a heavy surf and to the coral having extended itself to a -considerable distance from the shore. Hot springs only were found on -the eastern side of the latter island, one hundred and fifty feet from -the shore, boiling furiously up, through many fathoms of water. Early -on the succeeding morning, Capt. Geissinger, Lieutenant Fowler of the -marines, and myself, left the ship, on a visit to Forsaken island: we -flattered ourselves, as we approached the island, that the grateful -sound of many a murmuring rill, trickling down its steep and woody -sides, was heard by us--but we also were doomed to disappointment; -for, on landing, the sound was found to proceed from the singing of -locusts, which had obtained undisturbed possession of the island, and -were making sad ravages among the tender herbage. "No human footsteps -marked the trackless sand." - -In reconnoitring between Forsaken and Crokatoa islands, we were struck -with admiration at the great variety, both in form and colour, of an -extensive and highly beautiful submarine garden, over which the boat -was smoothly and slowly gliding. Corals of every shape and hue were -there--some resembling sunflowers and mushrooms; others, cabbages -from an inch to three feet in diameter: while a third bore a striking -likeness to the rose. - - "Some present - Large growth of what may seem the sparkling trees, - And shrubs of fairy land: while others shine - Conspicuous, and, in light apparel clad, - And fledged with snowy feathers, nod superb." - -The water was clear as crystal; not the slightest breeze ruffled its -glassy surface: the morning sun, having just freed the noble peak of -Crokatoa from its misty covering, shone forth with unusual splendour; -the sides of the hills, to their lofty summits, were clothed with -all the variety of fruit, forest, and flowering trees common to -intertropical climates: large flocks of parrots, shaking the dew of -night from their downy pinions, were seen wending their way towards -the palm-trees, in search of daily food; and monkeys in great variety -were commencing their lively gambols amid the wild-mango and orange -groves:--again, gazing in delighted wonder beneath us, we viewed the -superb scene of plants and flowers of every description, glowing in -vivid teints of purple, red, blue, brown, and green--equalling, in -richness and variety, the gayest parterre. A variety of small fish, -spotted, striped, and ringed, possessing every colour and shade, were -sporting in these regions of unsurpassed brilliancy and beauty. It was, -apparently, a great gala day; for they were revelling in great ease -and luxury, playing all sorts of gambols in their bright sea-homes, -unconscious of danger, and taking a full measure of enjoyment, in -their unrivalled retreats. That nothing might be wanting to complete -this gay scene of Nature's own choosing, shells of great variety and -shelves of coral, possessing every variety in colour, studded the -bottom; the superb Harpa, with its ribbed sides and straw-coloured -dress, slightly tinged with red and black; the Cyprea or Cowry of -almost every variety, covered with an epidermis or thin membrane to -protect its highly-polished surface; and many others, which might rival -the most delicate porcelain in whiteness and smoothness: there lay the -warlike Chiton, encased in his black coat-of-mail, ready for battle, -or adhering to the shell of a large Triton--the latter having closed -the entrance to his castle by a thick marble valve, which Nature had -provided as a protection against an enemy, or a barrier against the -rough beatings of a boisterous sea. Above, beneath, around us--all was -in harmony. - -A solemn stillness--broken only occasionally by the diving of a huge -turtle, the harsh note of the wild seabird, the singing of locusts, -or the shrill cry of the tiger-cat--reigned every where in the narrow -strait which separates the two islands. Disappointed in receiving the -so-much-needed supply of water and provisions, we weighed anchor the -same evening for Angier, in Java, and before daybreak, came to in -its roadstead. On our passage across, about midnight, we observed a -large ship bearing down for us. Immediately all hands were piped to -quarters--the battle-lanterns lit, fore and aft--the gun-deck cleared -of hammocks--the two-and-thirties loaded with round and grape shot, and -run out--the slow matches lighted and placed in their tubs--the marines -ranged along the quarter-deck, and the powder boys stationed from the -magazine to the gun-deck--the surgeons in the cockpit were displaying a -fearful array of bandages; and in five minutes the ship was ready for -action. As the vessel neared us, we found her to be no enemy, but his -Britannic majesty's ship Magicienne, from Batavia, bound to Bengal. So -we parted as we met--_friends_. May we never meet as enemies! - -[Sidenote: VISIT OF THE JAVANESE.] - -Day had scarcely made its appearance, ere the ship was surrounded -with Javanese canoes of all sizes, having outriggers to prevent their -oversetting, bringing fruits and vegetables, fowls, eggs, goats, -musk-deer, civet-cats, coloured and green doves; monkeys in great -variety; parrots, Java sparrows, having slate-coloured plumage and pink -bills, hats, shells, &c., for sale. Their strange mode of speaking the -English language, afforded much amusement to the whole crew: "Capetan, -you buy me fowl? Ib gotty fivety ten fowl, Capetan, he be great -biggy one; you buy Japa sparrow? Ib got uby, uby, yam, yam, plenty, -plenty, bery good; egg fowl, Capetan; fowl egg, Capetan, he be largy -one, biggy, biggy, all same as dat larangy, (pointing to a basket of -oranges,) I gib you Capetan, one hundred, five, ten, egg, (meaning one -hundred and fifteen,) sposey Capetan you gib me one dollar and one -quart;" (one dollar and a quarter.) - -All this was spoken with great rapidity and amid forcible -gesticulations. They were not at all abashed in asking a double price -for their articles, and stale eggs; the latter, they always endeavoured -to impose on us as new and fresh. The greatest curiosity I have yet -met with, is the musk-deer; it is in height nine and a half inches, -and twenty inches in length, from the top of the nose to the tail; has -large protruding round eyes, moderate-sized ears and a sleek, grayish, -dun-coloured coat, with beautiful slender legs and small hoofs. In -its shape it is a perfect deer, but has no horns. I have, at times, -seen this animal possessed of two scythe-shaped teeth, projecting from -the upper jaw and placed near the extremity of the mouth, pointing -recurvated backward. When irritated it would cut deeply with them and -strike with great rapidity. - -No covering beyond that of a waistcloth, was worn by the Javanese -boatmen, and but an additional breastcloth, by the females. An -odd-looking hat, which is in general use throughout the eastern seas, -is worn by both sexes; it is made of bamboo or palm-leaf, is impervious -to water, and may be likened to an old-fashioned painted dishcover, -divested of its brim. Both sexes chewed the areca-root to excess, and -were much disappointed that we could not supply them with opium, though -the penalty inflicted on them for its purchase, is slavery for life. -We paid a visit to Mr. Vogel, the commander of the Dutch fort, and met -with a very hospitable reception. - -[Sidenote: MARRIAGE CEREMONY.] - -The Camprongoe village of Angier contains about fourteen hundred -inhabitants, composed almost entirely of Javanese and Malays; it is -built on low ground, verging on a swamp, in the midst of palm-trees. -The houses, excepting perhaps a dozen, are of bamboo, roofed with -palm-leaf, and enclosed by a slight paling of wood. A bamboo bridge, -thrown across a ditch, conducted us to a very neat fortification; the -parade-ground on each side being shaded by rows of trees and having a -very pretty garden tastefully laid out and full of flowers, in front -of the commandant's house. During the two days which we remained, a -marriage-festival was in progress; when the seven days of public -rejoicing were finished the parties were to be united. These festivals -only take place among the children of the rajahs, or very rich men. -Every person who chooses to join the procession, is feasted at a house -provided for that purpose, during the festival. Were it not for the -presents of rice, bullocks, &c., sent by the friends of the betrothed, -the expense would be too burdensome; as many hundreds attend, even from -the neighbouring villages. - -The procession consisted of ladies and gentlemen, seated in separate -carts, persons on horseback and on foot, dressed in the gayest -habiliments which they could procure, carrying a great number of flags -of various colours and devices; and children dressed in yellow satin -trousers, their faces painted yellow, with large curved eyebrows and -fantastical caps. Great numbers of noisy instruments accompanied the -motley group, and the whole village was in an uproar, which ended only -with the setting sun. As we were passing the house of feasting, a -servant was sent out to solicit the honour of our company; we entered -the premises through two bands of musicians, who played on about thirty -instruments, which being struck by small hammers, made a tinkling sound. - -The master of the ceremonies received us with great politeness and -with much ceremony; he was habited in a robe of crimson, figured with -velvet, having a silk scarf thrown over his shoulders, and wearing a -turban; his teeth were of a deep black, owing to his excessive use of -areca and phunam, and his lips and gums were of a livid hue. Scarcely -were we seated, at a table set apart for our own use, in the midst of -many hundred hungry native revellers, ere twenty-seven dishes, composed -chiefly of sweetmeats, (there not being a particle of meat or fish,) -were upon the table. After tasting a little of each, to show that we -were gratified with the _whole_ entertainment, and partaking of a cup -of tea, we took our leave; areca was offered, as is customary, on our -entry and departure. During the repast, four Javanese stepped out -between the orchestra and danced for our amusement; their movements -were slow, but very graceful, the head looking downward, and the arms -as much in motion as the feet; the former being extended occasionally -rather above the head, and the palms being generally opened outward and -placed in every position, excepting that of closing or clenching. - -Two well-constructed piers at this place, running out from a shallow -creek, make a convenient harbour for small-craft, and near its upper -part, is an excellent place for procuring water, which is obtained by -a simple and expeditious process: a hose is connected with casks in -a boat beneath, the latter are filled in a few minutes, so that in -twenty-four hours the ship obtained twelve thousand gallons of water. - -Yams, sweet-potatoes, goats, fowls, and fruit were purchased in -abundance, but neither _flour_ or _bread_ could be obtained. Several -monkeys were purchased by the crew at Angiers. After the ship had -weighed anchor a female animal of this tribe, having a young one -clinging closely to the under part of her body, broke loose, ran with -great swiftness to the end of the spankerboom, and plunged into the -sea; a Javanese boat, towing astern, took them in; but not in time to -save the life of the younger; the female was then secured but refused -to eat, and remained till next morning in a state of melancholy. -Believing the animal would die, she was unloosed and running with -great precipitancy to the end of the boom, looked into the sea; but -not finding the object of her solicitude there, she looked overboard, -from every part of the ship, moaning most piteously. About this time, -she observed a small gray monkey, differing in species from herself, -having a very long tail; she at once seized the latter and hugged it -with great, seeming delight. The attempt to remove it from her would -have been in vain, had any one been disposed to make the trial; when -any of the sailors or the monkeys approached her, she would hug her -new object of affection with greater tenacity, run out her head, pout -disdainfully, and show a formidable row of white ivory; chattering and -scolding, at the same time most vehemently; occasionally she would -allow it to wander a few steps, holding on by the tip of the tail, -during the time; when too far, she would pull it backward, but if it -attempted to go beyond the length of its leading-string, (the tail,) -she would quickly drag it to her, box its ears, closely embrace it, and -after being reconciled, would feed it with some dainty morsel, stowed -away in her pouch. - -On a cold, stormy day, during our passage from La Plata to Sumatra, the -gun-deck being deluged with water, a Porto Praya monkey, a favourite -of mine, came to the cabin-door, and in its most expressive manner -solicited permission to enter; it stood shivering in the doorway, -dripping with saltwater, and looking the picture of distress, at -the same time snuffing up the warm air, proceeding from a stove; I -called it in, at length; the first object of its attention was the -stove, (never having seen one before,) but approaching too near, it -slightly burnt its nose, and quickly retreated, looking with much -astonishment at the cause; finally it sprung to the top of the table -and skipping about from one place to another, unfortunately alighted on -the stove, where it danced for a second or two, jumped precipitately -down, and came to me, showing its paws, (which were scorched white,) -and apparently asking for relief. I rubbed them with oil, at which the -animal appeared to be relieved; it then quietly took its station as -close to me as possible, testifying unquestionably, as much silent -gratitude as any human being could have done in a similar situation. - -[Sidenote: SAILING FROM ANGIER.] - -We sailed from Angier roadstead, for Manila, on the afternoon of -the following day, but owing to light airs we made slow progress -to the island of Lucepara; here we were obliged to anchor to find -sufficient depth of water to carry the ship into the straits of Banca. -After sounding with several boats, there was, at length, found a -channel, having about three feet more water than the ship drew. When -passing through the straits we were compelled frequently to anchor, -in consequence of the soundings disagreeing much with our miserable -charts. A fine breeze wafted us through these waters with great -rapidity, as far as Pulo Aor; from thence, until we were fairly to -the northward of the great group of shoals, lying towards the coast -of Palawan, we were more indebted to the current. On our passage from -Sumatra to the Philippines we passed through a considerable portion of -the archipelago of the east, where lie Borneo, Java, and Sumatra, the -Molucca and Philippine islands; where the sea is like a smooth bed on -which the islands seem to sleep in bliss--islands, in which the spice -and perfume gardens of the world, are embosomed; where the bird of -paradise, the golden pheasant, and a hundred other birds of brilliant -plumage, have their homes amid thickets so luxuriant, and scenery so -picturesque, that European strangers there find the fairy lands of -their youthful dreams. But our pleasing anticipations were at times -blighted with the apprehension of striking on some unknown shoal, or -encountering one of those tremendous typhoons for which the northern -coast of China, in the latter part of September, about the changing of -the monsoons, is so notorious. - -Thick squally weather attended by variable winds blowing sometimes from -the northern, and again from the southern quarter, wafted us rapidly to -the eastward, after doubling the shoals. We proceeded onward, assisted -by a strong current, until two o'clock in the morning of the thirtieth -of September, when a slight gleam of light appearing through the -mist, discovered to us mount and point Calavité, on the northwestern -extremity of Mendora islands. Shortly afterward, we descried Luban -and Cabia or (Goat) islands. At ten in the morning, we dropped anchor -between the island of Corregidor, and the mountain of Marivales on the -island of Luconia or Luzon. - -Our chronometers being useless, we were obliged for some time -previously to entering the China sea, to depend on our "dead -reckoning;" notwithstanding twenty-five or thirty miles a day was -allowed for a current setting to the eastward, after passing Pulo -Sapata, the allowance proved insufficient, as we had gained forty-five -miles over our reckoning. During the past month, the diarrhoea prevailed -among the crew, probably occasioned by a change of climate from cold to -extreme heat, from rainy weather, excess in fruit, and frequent change -in diet, but more particularly from the compulsory substitution of yams -for bread. - -Before we anchored, the ship was boarded by a Spanish officer, -despatched by the Corregidor to make the usual inquiries. Our arrival -was communicated by telegraph to Manila. The officer's boat was rowed -by sixteen Indians, and armed with four neat, small brass swivels, -small-arms, pikes, &c., to enable them to combat with the pirates who -occasionally frequent the bay, and to capture smugglers. - -Having previously paid the commandant and family a visit, by whom we -were received in a most hospitable manner, we landed in the morning -at the base of Marivales, in search of adventure. The ship anchored -the following afternoon, in the roadstead of Manila, about four miles -from the low-stone lighthouse, situated at the embouchure of the river -Pasig, and being only twenty miles from our first anchorage-ground. On -the succeeding morning, the captain of the port paid the usual visita, -(visit,) accompanied by Mr. Henry Sturgis, of the very respectable -American house of Russell and Sturgis, and Mr. Edwards, the American -consul. Having received a kind invitation from these gentlemen, to take -up our abode with them, I moved on shore, bag and baggage, to the house -of the latter gentleman, finely situated at St. Cruz, opposite the city -of Manila, and directly upon the banks of that beautiful river. - -[Sidenote: MANILA.] - -The noble bay of Manila is about forty-five leagues in circumference -and nearly free from dangers; the scenery is of a varied character: -mountains and hills are discernible in the distance, from Marivales, -sweeping in a circle around the bay, till the most lofty form the -eastern boundary of the island, the shores of which are washed, on one -side, by the ocean, and on the other, by the waters of Lago de Bria; -from the lake flows that rapid steam, the Pasig, (pronounced Parseek,) -into the bay, at the distance of twelve miles, watering a rich extent -of low land. - -The city of Manila lies on the south side of the river, and is enclosed -by dark stone-walls, having a broad and deep ditch; so high are the -city-walls, that only the red tiled-houses, and the towers and domes -of churches, can be seen in the distance above them. On entering the -city, you are struck with the stillness and gloomy appearance of the -streets, interrupted only occasionally by the march of soldiers going -to relieve guard in this garrisoned town, the rumbling of a solitary -carriage, the tinkling of a bell, announcing the approach of the host -on its way to administer the last religious rites to a dying sinner, -or a distant convent-bell summoning the religious to prayers. The -streets, although narrow, are kept clean, and have good "trottoirs;" -the great square in the centre of the city contains a fine bronze -statue of Charles the Fourth of Spain, erected by his _dutiful_ and -_affectionate son_, Ferdinand the beloved, so says the inscription on -the pedestal; three sides of the square are occupied by the cathedral -or church of the "Immaculate Conception," the consistorial palace, and -the palace of the governor-general. Manila contains about ten thousand -souls, and is garrisoned by two regiments of soldiers; at Binonda, -St. Cruz, and the villages in the vicinity, three more are stationed, -besides three thousand placed in different parts of the island. Of -these, twelve hundred only are Europeans, the remainder being Indians; -they are well clothed, fed, lodged, drilled, and paid. The houses are -built in a quadrangular form and are very massive, having covered -balconies, from the second story, projecting over the street; they are -generally spacious, well-furnished, and neat; the ground-floor, called -the "bodega," or "godown," is occupied as a magazine for goods, as a -stable, and for other purposes. Instead of lattice-work or glass, the -_mya_ shell is used, set in frames about four inches square; it affords -a very agreeable light, equal to that passing through ground-glass; the -windows thus formed extend round the house, can be slid at pleasure, -and render the dwellings light and airy; the second story is of thin -brick, or light framework, and plastered; the roof is covered with -tile, the framework being so constructed that it will readily yield to -the shock of an earthquake, (which is of very frequent occurrence,) -without being easily thrown down. A very large proportion of the -buildings, in the towns and villages, are in the native style, being -for the most part, owing to the low swampy ground, erected on piles -from three to six feet high, and are constructed with the bamboo or -palm-leaf; the interior is much exposed to view, as the windows made -with palm-leaf or bamboo lattice, occupy three fourths of their fronts -and are let down at daylight. - -Within them may be seen, in the evening, the Holy Virgin, surrounded -by lights and placed in a glass-case, dressed in a gay attire, holding -in her arms the infant Saviour; around her are seen the whole family, -at prayers, before retiring to rest, thanking her for the blessing -bestowed during the day and imploring her guardianship from all enemies -during the night; at other times, the inmates are chewing buyo or -areca nut, &c., smoking cigars, (of which they are immoderately fond,) -combing and oiling their long thick hair, or thrumming on the guitar -and singing. Sewing is but little attended to, as their dresses are -simple and their children are permitted to run about naked. They cook -twice daily on the outside of their houses; their fare consisting -principally of rice and some fruit, with an addition perhaps of a -fowl, some fish or _locusts_. All their washing is done at the river, -where they bathe daily. Every man among the Indians owns a game-cock, -and he frequently loses all he has, even to his waistcloth, in that -barbarous species of gambling, cock-fighting; the birds are armed with -scythe-shaped spurs, and one or both expire, generally, during the -first few rounds. The immense number of licensed cock-pits which are -found in every town and village, serves to show the prevalence of the -passion for this amusement. - -Manila is connected with the towns on the right bank of the river, by -means of a single bridge, built very neatly of stone, the arch of which -was thrown down a few years since by an earthquake, and is rebuilt of -wood. The commerce of the city is carried on at the right side of the -river, at Binondo, St. Cruz, &c.; that side having the advantage of -numerous natural canals or branches, from the main river, on which are -situated extensive warehouses, so that the cascoes, which are large -boats, having moveable or sliding roofs, in sections of about six -feet in length, can land their goods immediately at the wharf without -exposure to the weather. - -The city of Manila, within the walls, was computed by a census taken -in 1818, to contain a population of six thousand eight hundred and -seventy-five, exclusive of the military. Buildings which rent from -five to fourteen hundred dollars per annum, in Binondo, contiguous to -the river and its branches, will not in Manila, rent for more than -one fourth of that sum, owing to its want of water communication, yet -the government have very inconveniently placed the new and extensive -custom-house close to the city-walls. There are about seven thousand -Chinese settled here; all the Europeans, including the military, do -not exceed twenty-five hundred; the rest are Indians, who, were they -aware of their strength, might easily wipe from the face of existence, -the handful of Europeans and other foreigners, who hold them and their -lands in subjection. - -Provisions are so low in value, that it is said four dollars -will furnish a labourer, in rice, &c., sufficient for his yearly -consumption. Labour is exceedingly low; the wages for a servant-man, -being from one to one and a half dollars per month. Rice has been -sold here for three quarters of a dollar the caban of one hundred and -thirty pounds: at this time it is double that price, in consequence of -vast quantities having been shipped to Canton. A person possessing the -immense sum of twenty-five dollars is considered, among the Indians, -as "passing rich," and immediately quits labour to _keep shop_ in the -street, with a moveable stall, or in front of his bamboo-hut; the -_goods_ usually consist of burgo, alias areca nut, and betel-leaf, -well prepared with liquid chunam for immediate mastication, cocoa-nut -oil, a little coarse pottery, wooden shoes, palm-leaf hats, and -perhaps a few mats. A great number of the shops contain only the -first-named article, and the stock in trade may possibly amount to the -sum of two rials, (twenty-five cents;) here they sit cross-legged, -during the whole day, or, desiring a change, sideways, on a gridiron -bamboo-seat. I have frequently feared the whole stock in trade, would -be ejected into the street by their insatiable masticatory powers, but -occasionally seeing the havoc they are making, and fearful of becoming -bankrupts, they thrust a corner of one of the handspike cigars (which -are in common use) into their mouths and finish off the evening with -it. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - MANILA CONTINUED--CALZADA--SEA-CUCUMBER--CIGAR-FACTORY - AT BINONDO--EXPORTS--DUTIES--WEIGHTS AND - CURRENCY--EXCHANGE--IMPORTS--LUZON--CAVITÉ--HURRICANES--LAGO DE - BRIA--PINA--INDIAN AND BUFFALO--VISITS TO THE ALCADE. - - -There is a fashionable drive in Manila, called the Calzada, -encompassing, probably, two thirds of the circumference of Manila: -it passes over a low, level piece of ground, bordering on the fosse -or ditch of the city on one side, and on the open country and -parade-ground fronting the bay, on the other. Along this drive, -carriages may be seen rolling, filled with well-dressed ladies, but -mostly of a dark complexion, (Mestizoes,) smoking cigars with most -perfect nonchalance: some are puffing paper cigars--others, those which -resemble, in size, Havanas; and again others, a ponderous article which -would occupy an indefatigable smoker a week or ten days. - -There are no public houses in the neighbourhood, and the only amusement -is a dull drive at sunset, day after day, over the same grounds, in -preference to others infinitely more pleasant, stopping occasionally -to light a cigar from a slow match: this latter article is carried by -boys, who infest the road, making loud and frequent vociferations, -going upon the full run. The market is abundantly supplied with beef, -fish, fowls, ducks, turkeys, geese, fruit, and vegetables. A large -proportion of the labouring class take their meals in the street, -from the innumerable venders which occupy the sidewalks, to the great -annoyance of pedestrians. Among the strange articles exposed for sale -in every street are fried locusts, made into a curry. That disgusting -looking fish, called by some ichthyologists, Holothurial--sea-cucumber -and sea-slug by the English--Bichos do Mar by the Portuguese--Tripango -or Trippany by the Javanese--Swala by the Sumatrans--and Balaté by the -Philippine islanders, is in common use among the Chinese and Europeans. -I have eaten it made into a soup or stew: it has a taste between the -green fat of a turtle and the soft gristle of boiled beef, and is said -to be very nutritious, but not equal to the edible bird's-nests, or -nests of the sea-swallow of these seas. No less than five thousand, -four hundred and eighty-six piculs of one hundred and thirty-seven -pounds each, equal to seven hundred and sixty-eight thousand and forty -pounds, were shipped from this port to Canton last year, as appears by -the custom-house returns, besides a large quantity smuggled. By far -the larger portion is brought here by American vessels from the Fejee -islands. These fish resemble, when contracted, a cucumber, and it is -difficult to discover the eyes and mouth: some are black, others white, -gray, &c.: they are, at present, sold at fourteen dollars per picul, -the cargo. - -The land in the vicinity, for many miles, is low and marshy, but neatly -cultivated with rice. It is surprising that health should be enjoyed at -all in the midst of rice-swamps, in this sultry climate: thousands of -huts are built in the midst of them, when it would prove fatal to the -whole population in almost any other country. The healthiness of the -climate, I think, must be attributed to the narrowness of that part of -the island, and to the constant and refreshing breezes which dissipate -its miasma. The bamboo is one of the most useful among the vegetable -creation--houses, chairs, fences, settees, buckets, boxes, baskets, -hats, drinking-cups, fans, mats for boats, spear-handles, sails, &c., -are made of its wood; while the tender root is served up at the table, -boiled and roasted, used as a pickle and as a sweetmeat. I visited the -celebrated great cigar-factory at Binondo; about five thousand females -are employed in it, and about six hundred men: it is a royal monopoly. -Every person is searched twice a day to see if he pilfers any of his -majesty's tobacco--he being the sole owner and master of the factory. - -[Sidenote: MANILA--EXPORTS.] - -The principal articles exported, (except gold and silver,) were indigo, -sugar, rice, hemp or abacia, cotton, cocoa-nut oil, sulphur, balaté, or -bichos do mar, coffee, wax and hides, in the following proportions:-- - -Indigo, thirty-one thousand, one hundred and nineteen arrobas, of -which twenty-five thousand were agua rose or liquid, in jars; sugar, -six hundred and seventeen thousand, seven hundred and thirty-eight -arrobas, excepting eighteen thousand arrobas of the first quality; -rice, one million, seventy-four thousand, one hundred and seventy -arrobas, including two hundred thousand, uncleaned; hemp, or abacia, -one hundred and fifty-three thousand, four hundred and forty-seven -arrobas--it is of two qualities, and is called, in the United States, -Manila-grass or hemp; cotton, four thousand one hundred and ninety-five -arrobas; cocoa-nut oil, six thousand, nine hundred and sixty-four -arrobas; sulphur, two thousand, four hundred and eighty arrobas; balaté -or bichos do mar, five thousand, four hundred and eighty-six arrobas; -coffee, fourteen thousand, six hundred and twenty-five arrobas; hides, -twenty-nine thousand, nine hundred and fifty-eight arrobas. - -The minor articles of export are dried shark's fins, oysters, muscles, -shrimps and other dried fish, oil of sesamum, edible bird's-nests, -ploughs, hatchets, knives, cowries, rattans, canes, sail-cloth of -yéacos, dammer or pitch, tortoise-shell, horns, mother-of-pearl, -shells, tallow, shoes and boots, chocolate, soap, cigars, tobacco, -saltpetre, lard, dried deer and ox sinews, birds of paradise, wheat, -flour and bread, mats and palm hats, cigar-cases, rum, molasses, -sugar-candy, sweetmeats, groundnuts, gomuti or sagwire, cabinet -furniture, ebony and Japan woods, and Agal, a species of sea-weed, -or rather dulse, dissoluble into a glutinous substance, and used in -China as a valuable paste: also sinamaya, a fine cloth, made from the -avacá; and piña, which is a narrow cloth, made from the fibres of the -pineapple; it is, deservedly, considered as one of the most beautiful -fabrics in the world--is transparent, of a great variety of beautiful -patterns, and equal in the fineness of its texture to cobweb-muslin. -A large portion of the rice is exported to Canton by Americans, to -save the measurement duty, or to Lintin when they proceed elsewhere to -purchase other than China goods. Occasionally the export is prohibited, -either from scarcity or the caprice of the government. - -The export of hemp, abacá or avacá, in the year 1829, was eight -thousand, four hundred and one piculs: in 1832, it had increased to -thirty-seven thousand, five hundred:--this article is the fibrous bark -of a wild banana, (musa textilis,) which grows abundantly in all the -Philippine islands. Gomuti or sagwire is exported in its natural state, -or made into cables, &c.: it resembles very coarse black horse-hair--is -the produce of the borassus gomuti or aren palm, which yields the -sagwire for cordage, and is found lying between the trunk and the -branches, on a soft gossamer-like texture, which is used in calking the -seams of ships: it also makes a useful tinder for kindling fire--grows -luxuriantly, away from the seacoast, but never produces more than two -crops of the sagwire. - -The cocoa-nut oil is mostly shipped to Singapore, and from thence to -England, where it is manufactured into candles: it is of two qualities; -the best is boiled from the green nut--the ordinary kind is ground -from nuts, broken and exposed some days to the sun: the first quality, -only, is bought for shipping; as casks cannot be obtained, it is sold -in jars, and readily congeals when the thermometer is at 70°. Wheat -is raised in abundance, and ship-bread, of a very superior quality, -is generally sold at from four to five dollars the hundred pounds. As -salted beef, pork, butter, and hams, are purchased only by foreign -captains, they are of very slow and uncertain sale. - -The _Import Duty_ in foreign vessels is fourteen per centum, Spanish; -the _Export Duty_, three per centum, excepting on hemp, which is free. -The importations for the year 1831 amounted to one million, seven -hundred and ninety-four thousand, three hundred and seventy-nine -dollars; the exports for the same period, to one million, four hundred -and fourteen thousand, seven hundred and ten dollars. - -The gold and silver imported, amounted to three hundred and -thirty-seven thousand, two hundred and eighty-seven dollars, and the -amount exported, on which duties were paid, was forty-nine thousand, -two hundred and nineteen dollars. A large sum in gold, silver, and -in the dust produced in the island, is smuggled out of the country, -principally by the Chinese. - -_Weights._--The quintal is four Spanish arrobas of twenty-five pounds. -The picul is here one hundred and thirty-seven pounds, Spanish, or one -hundred and forty pounds, English. - -The _currency_ of the island is dollars and their parts, and doubloons; -the latter being worth sixteen dollars. _Exchange_ on London was four -and a half prem.; on Canton, two per cent. discount: but it necessarily -fluctuates very materially. - -The _imports_ are British, India, and China goods, wines, sheathing -copper and nails, iron and steel, cocoa from Peru, &c. During the -southwest or foul monsoon, the shipping lies at Cavité, and in the -northeast or fair monsoon, (from October to April,) from three to five -miles from the entrance to Pasig, below the bridge which unites Manila -with Binondo. - -[Sidenote: POPULATION--TAXES.] - -The _population_ of the archipelago of the Philippine islands, -according to the returns made, in the year 1792, was one million, four -hundred thousand, four hundred and sixty-five; in 1805, one million, -seven hundred and thirty-nine thousand, two hundred and five; in -1812, one million, nine hundred and eleven thousand, five hundred -and thirty-five; in 1815, one million, nine hundred and twenty-seven -thousand, eight hundred and forty; in 1817, two millions, sixty-three -thousand, three hundred and ninety-five; in 1818, two millions, two -hundred and forty-nine thousand, eight hundred and fifty-two. - -The increase in twenty-six years, from 1792 to 1818, was about sixty -per cent.; if to this be added thirty-seven per cent. for the increase -in sixteen years, from 1818 to 1834, the population at present amounts -to three millions, one hundred and twelve thousand, two hundred and -ninety-seven. The island of Luzon had a population of one hundred and -forty-nine thousand, six hundred and ninety-five: if to this we add -thirty-seven per cent. up to 1834, it will give two hundred and five -thousand and eighty two. Of this number, nearly one half is within -a circuit of twelve miles of the capital. The number of the negro -race, called Aetes, Ygorzotes, or Papuas, was estimated at seventeen -thousand, three hundred and fifty-five: this number does not include -many thousands, probably, who live among the fastnesses of the -mountains. - -The principal object of the Spanish government in ascertaining the -number of inhabitants, was to levy a capitation tax; in some cases as -low as one rial per head--in others, twelve rials. The Chinese pay a -much higher tax than any other foreigners; the traders, in 1832, paid -six dollars per annum--the common labourers, half that amount. The -latter tax forced many of the poorer class to emigrate: the Spanish -government is afraid of them, and wishes also to employ the natives of -the country; it therefore laid this heavy impost for the purpose of -driving them away. - -No foreigners have permission to remain there, even to this day, as -permanent settlers: they are liable to be ordered out of the country -by the governor at any moment, and this right is not unfrequently -exercised. - -The island of Luzon, which derives its name from Luzong, a large -wooden mortar used by the natives for cleaning rice, was discovered -in 1521, and in 1571, Manila was founded. The discoverers found the -country about Manila thickly settled with an active people called -Tagalor; at the north of this nation they met with and conquered -the Pampangoes, Zambales, Pangasinanes, Yloeds, and Cagayanes: at -the eastward of the Tagaloes were the Camarines. Each of these was -a distinct people, having a particular language. None of them had a -sovereign or chief magistrate; they were divided into a great number -of small villages, containing from fifty to one hundred families, -each governed by a chief, who was chosen for his wisdom and his deeds -in arms. These petty states were continually at war with each other, -making slaves of their unfortunate prisoners--the mountains were then, -as now, inhabited by the negro race, common to many of the islands in -the eastern archipelago. These different races of people, with the -exception of about ten thousand, still form the population of the -island. - -[Sidenote: CAVITÉ--PASIG.] - -Three leagues from Manila is Cavité, called by the natives Caveit, -because it is a crooked point of land extending into the sea. (Here is -a small arsenal, and some small vessels are built, and occasionally a -ship of war. It was formerly the resort of the Acapulco ships, before -South America freed herself and commerce from the shackles which -deprived her of all participation in a free trade.) The natives were -found to have all the necessaries of life--rice, beans, millet, camote, -a species of potato, pine-apples, oranges, mangoes, hogs, ducks, fowls, -goats, and buffaloes, were in abundance. The island abounded in deer, -wild pigeons, and other game; the gomuti-palm yielded them, when fresh, -a pleasant beverage--when fermented, an intoxicating liquor: the pith -furnished with sugar--when the liquor was properly boiled down, a -farina, inferior to sago, and of the inside of its triangular-shaped -fruit a sweetmeat was made. The cocoa-palm afforded a delicious -beverage, and oil for cooking or burning: the areca-palm with its nut, -and the betel-leaf, produced their favourite buyo. The lakes, rivers, -bays, and ocean, swarmed with myriads of fish, which they ensnared in -the most ingenious manner, with nets, lines, &c. - -The island is traversed by a chain of mountains, extending from north -to south, from which others branch out; some are found isolated, in the -midst of plains, while others are surrounded by water. Volcanoes are -found in various parts; between the provinces of Albay and Camorines -is the Mayon, shaped like an obtuse peak; it forms a good landmark for -navigators; there is also at Taal a similarly-shaped mountain in the -midst of a lagoon; it is called Bombou. Hot springs are found in many -places. The island suffers at times from the effects of tremendous -earthquakes, which destroy massive buildings, rend asunder the solid -walls of Manila, and shake the mountain in the ocean, to its centre. -The volcanoes, also, overwhelm whole villages with ashes, stones, -sand, and water; making steril, verdant fields; carrying ruin within -its influence, and destroying the hopes of the poor husbandman. It is -subject also to desolating typhoons or hurricanes, sweeping in their -erratic course, hundreds of slight-built huts, prostrating the largest -trees, dismasting or foundering at their anchor, numerous vessels, and -driving on shore or wrecking others, for nothing moveable at times can -withstand these mighty winds. The hopes of the planter are also, in a -few hours, destroyed by devastating clouds of locusts, which infest the -land, devouring in their course every green thing. - -Possessing a humid and warm atmosphere, the soil naturally yields an -abundance of the necessaries of life, but the seasons generate many -fatal diseases. - -[Sidenote: PASIG.] - -On Manila Sunday, (our Monday,) a party of eight, one beautiful -morning, before sunrise, proceeded in three veloches (carriages of -a certain description) to the village of Santa Anna, distant about -three miles over a fine road and highly-cultivated country, where we -embarked on board two large bankas of about eight-and-thirty feet in -length, dug out of a tree, having a light bamboo-roof which could be -elevated or depressed at pleasure, and paddled by four Indians. Between -eight and nine o'clock, we arrived at the town of Pasig, situated -about three miles from the entrance of the lake; the passage up was -delightful--the land bordering on the river was low but well cultivated -with rice, sugar-cane, &c., and fruit; it was one continuous village on -either bank. Being a holyday, the natives were well and gayly dressed; -hundreds of canoes passed us, laden with fish from the lake; others -with fruit, vegetables, eggs, areca-nut and betel-leaf, beef, pork, -fowls, ducks, geese, turkeys, cocoa-nut oil, molasses and sugar, cloth, -of various kinds, baskets, mats, hats, &c., made of bamboo, all under -cover of the moveable roof; they were paddled by an equal number of -men and women, all apparently, in good spirits, and having always at -hand a joke, to bandy with our canoe-men, in the Taga language; they -were hurrying on to the great markets at Manila and Binonda, to dispose -of their various articles. On the shores, men, women, and children -were fishing with every sort of contrivance that can be named, in -the shape of nets, hooks, and lines; some men with nets scraping up -the mud from the bottom to obtain shrimps, which they found in great -abundance; others taking very large craw-fish. Hundreds were bathing -in the river, near the banks; whole families were seen together, from -the grand-mother to the grand-daughter, washing their long black hair -with vegetable soap, called by the natives gogo, being the inner-rind -of a tree growing here in great plenty. Many of the palm and bamboo -cottages were erected on piles close to the bank of the river, and -some canoes were made fast to the ladder ready for any of the family -to take an excursion, when they wished to go to the village-church, -or to gossip with a neighbour and partake of his hospitalities, which -consist of Burgo and a cigar, a fishing-party, a main of fighting-cocks -or a boat-race. The fronts of the houses being open, all the operations -of the various families could be distinctly seen. We met with many -hotels, alias eating-shops, placed on piles some distance from the -shore, where our boatmen stopped to obtain their breakfast, which -consisted of rice, shrimp and other fish, in abundance, for which they -paid about two cents per head. Many loungers were reposing on the -bamboo-flooring, smoking or chewing burgo, flirting with the young -damsels, who were indulging themselves in the same luxury as their -beaux; at the same time, perhaps, combing out and oiling their hair, -which generally reaches to the waist, and occasionally adjusting -their tapa or outer-cloth, which is either of striped silk or cotton, -extending halfway below the knee; some wore a nicely-laced embroidered -muslin handkerchief on their heads and shoulders; their feet, or rather -toes, are covered with scant and showy slippers, having no heels nor -any quarters, cut down within an inch and a half of the end; these -were well bespangled, and some of them bound with a stripe of gold or -silver lace; they are only worn on special occasions, by particular -individuals; a large proportion of the people go barefooted, or wear a -high wooden shoe, plain or ornamented with brocaded or spangled-velvet, -or gilt-leather. Every man who is able, wears shirts of the truly -beautiful piña, or cloth made of the fibres of the pine-apple, which -is manufactured on the island. The shirts, made from this cloth, -as fine as cobweb-muslin, beautifully embroidered about the bosom, -collar, and wristbands, are worn by all the Indians and Mestizoes, -on the outside of the trousers; the latter are made of piña, or fine -grass-cloth, (called siramaya,) according to the ability of the owner. -As for stockings, they are about as useful to a young Tagalo girl, as -knee-breeches to a Scotch-highlander. - -Reclining on our gay pillow, stretched at ease, full length, on a -clean mat, laid on a raised bamboo-floor, discussing the merits of -cold roast fowl, ham, and tongue; a bottle of claret, and a bottle of -porter for our breakfast, I thought there were not many persons in the -world more comfortably situated for the time being. We stayed for a -short time at the house of the alcade of Pasig, a native gentleman of -Tagola parentage, and were hospitably invited to dinner. Having walked -through the town, visited the church and bazar, (which we found well -stocked with rice and fish,) we returned to the lake. The late heavy -rains had so swollen its waters that our canoes were paddled across -extensive paddy fields, where we met with others, fishing; we passed -close to several large craft, having two masts but no bowsprits, with -large mat sails, cables, and wooden anchors of various shapes. They -were clumsily constructed and badly rigged, but gayly painted on their -high bow-boards and on each quarter; the high stern was also painted -with flowers and a figure of the patron-saint after which the vessel -was named, in the gayest colours. There was nothing to be seen, on this -part of the excursion, excepting a wide expanse of water; mountains and -hills, in the distance, and fishing-snares placed in every direction. -Game of various kinds abounds among the hills, affording fine hunting. -Boa-constrictors and other reptiles may be found in abundance, and in -the creeks, alligators of an immense size. In the lake there are said -to be one hundred different varieties of fish; but it requires a week's -leisure, a suitable banka, with many et ceteras, to enjoy the manifold -beauties with which this sheet of water is reputed to be surrounded. -We were much amused when on our passage to the lake, in discovering, -at a distance, a man floating with the stream and seated upright in -the water; we were unable immediately to discover what supported him -in that position, but shortly after we descried the projecting nose of -an enormous carabou or Indian buffalo. The Indian appeared to be quite -at his ease, sitting astride the ponderous animal, smoking one of the -immense-sized cigars I have before mentioned, and which would last out -a reasonable cruise. With the left hand he grasped the animal's tail, -to support him in the current, and a rope passed through the nose (the -usual custom here) served to direct the _figure-head_ to any part to -which he fancied to go. He was hailed by our Indians and asked where he -was bound; he replied he was on his way to pay visits to some Señoritas -down the river, and, subsequently, was going to Manila, to sell his -carabou, (a distance of about ten miles.) - -[Sidenote: PATERO.] - -The scene was occasionally enlivened by the sound of a guitar, -proceeding from a canoe or a cottage on the shore. Rafts of cocoa-nuts, -containing many thousands, guided by a single man standing in the -centre of them, holding a long pole, with other rafts, of bamboo and -timber, were constantly passing us. On our return from the lakes we -visited several small streams on the left hand of the river, on which -is situated an extensive village called Patero, alias Duck-town--a -very appropriate name for the place, for I never before saw so many -ducks together; the cottages were standing very near to each other, and -thousands of these birds were feeding on the river, being secured by -a slight fence made of bamboo. Raising ducks and fishing seemed to be -the only employment. Every thing about the inhabitants wore a rustic -appearance, which was heightened, in a certain degree, by the plantain -and mango trees, overshadowing their picturesque habitations: some were -washing clothes in the stream, others, cooking in the open air--many -were stretched out at full length, asleep; children were hanging in -cots under the shadowy branches of the trees, soothed by gentle breezes -which rocked them to sleep--others, of a larger growth, in a state of -nudity, were playing with the ducks, sailing mimic boats, or making -_dirt-puddings_--not a few in number were diverting themselves with -cock-fighting--others were endeavouring to make a little musick, and -some were playing the game of draughts, with small stones. A portion -of the young Indian girls (Tagalos) were decorating or anointing -their pretty persons--others were paddling about in small canoes, -which they would occasionally upset to create a hearty laugh and -then, like dripping Naiads, again scrambling into them, would repeat -the same frolic. This village, or a succession of villages, extends -several miles along various outlets from the main river, from which no -portion of it can be seen, being completely hidden by the trees on the -banks; it contained, in 1818, three thousand, eight hundred and forty -inhabitants, all Indians; at this period, 1834, it has, probably, four -thousand, five hundred souls. - -We returned to the hospitable alcade's house about two, being only -a couple of miles from Patero, where we found a sumptuous dinner, -consisting of not less than twelve dishes of fish and meat, with a -variety of sweetmeats, fruit and coffee, (but no wine or spirits,) and -then cigars and buyo, for those who chose them. We did ample justice -to this repast, although nearly burnt up with a hot sun. This town, or -rather cluster of villages, is inhabited wholly by Indians, principally -Tagalos, and contained in 1818, twelve thousand, one hundred and forty -souls; at the present period, it has probably a population of fifteen -thousand; the houses are mostly built of bamboo and palm, and stand -on piles. In violent typhoons it is found necessary to secure them -with ropes, passed over the roofs, and fastened to strong posts. Their -elevation on piles is found a necessary security against the lake, -which occasionally, after violent rains, spreads its wide stream over -all the lowlands bordering upon it. The inhabitants raise cane and rice -in large quantities, with some wheat, Indian corn, fruits, &c. Fishing, -more or less, is the occupation of every one; they, apparently, live in -great simplicity and comfort, wanting nothing. A considerable quantity -of sugar is made here, there being several extensive buildings for -that purpose. Having taken leave of our kind host, we proceeded down -the river to Manila, and again were much delighted with the richness, -beauty and variety of the scenery. The mango with its umbrageous arms, -affording a delightful shade to the weary traveller--the plantain -and the banana, disputing every foot of ground, on the banks of the -river, the tall and graceful bamboo overtopping every thing around -it--extensive fields of cane, waving gently their green leaves to the -passing breeze, with fields of paddy, exhibiting the green spiral -leaf of the plant above the flooded meadows; numberless cottages were -seen, deeply seated in the midst of luxuriant fruit-trees, and a -massive church or convent was always in view, in some delightful spot. -Again we met Indians, of both sexes, fishing or bathing, going upon a -water-excursion, or to a ball, to chew buyo, to have a little chit-chat -or scandal with a neighbour, or visit a holy friar of a neighbouring -convent. These rapid and varied scenes, with our agreeable company, -afforded us much pleasure as we lay in our bankas, enjoying the rapid -passing views, which lapse of years cannot efface, exhibiting a rural -picture of great simplicity and beauty; the principal actors being a -race of Indians noted for the mildness of their tempers and for their -great hospitality. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - DEPARTURE FROM MANILA--CHOLERA--CAPE BOLINA--CHINESE - VESSELS--PILOT--MACAO--LINTING--VILLAGE--WHAMPOA--JOS - HOUSES--SACRIFICE--ARRIVAL AT CANTON--RIVER AND BOATS--DESCRIPTION - OF CANTON--GREAT IDOL TEMPLE--LEGEND OF THE JOS HOUSE--RELIGIOUS - CEREMONIES--MINOR TEMPLES. - - -We had spent a fortnight most pleasantly at Manila, when the painful -intelligence was received, that the Asiatic or spasmodic cholera had -suddenly made its appearance on board the Peacock. It has been already -stated that the diarrhoea and dysentery were prevalent among the crew, -on the passage from Angier to Manila. These diseases were ascribed, -among other causes, to the want of bread and the substitution of yams, -&c. The cholera could not have arisen from any want of cleanliness, -for our ship, from her keelson to her royal truck, was kept thoroughly -clean and in the finest order, both at sea and in port. The united -causes which produced this malady were, probably, change of food, -the great quantities of fruit used by the crew, and the arrival of -the season of the year, (about the change of the monsoons in the -bay,) which is generally unhealthy. The first case was in a sailor, -named Peterson, sixty-three years old. He had made a hearty meal on -bean soup, with pork, and about an hour afterward the first symptoms -made their appearance; the evacuations became copious, coldness and -insensibility supervened; the pulse became scarcely perceptible; the -countenance livid, ghastly, and sunken; spasms attacked the lower -extremities; and the surface was covered with a cold, clammy sweat. The -surgeon administered six grains of opium, in three doses; bad symptoms -increasing, fifteen drops of cajeput oil were given in brandy and -water, and repeated in half an hour. After the last dose of opium there -were no evacuations, but the spasms had increased, extended to the -abdominal muscles, and caused such extreme distress, that it required -three or four men to hold the sufferer in his hammock; his groanings -and screamings were violent and frightful. In three or four hours -the spasms ceased. Notwithstanding the internal and external use of -the most powerful stimulants, the prostration increased, and, at four -o'clock in the morning, he was happily relieved from all the pains and -troubles of this life. Another case, was that of a seaman, named North; -he was found at eight o'clock in the evening, lying on deck, totally -unable to rise, from extreme prostration. Death had, apparently, -struck an instantaneous and a heavy blow; the victim was already -clutched in its most loathsome and terrific embraces; the evacuations -were of the usual character; in a few minutes, the pulse was scarce -perceptible; the surface, cold and covered with a viscid perspiration; -the countenance, dreadfully sunken, livid, and cadaverous; respiration -became laborious, and the sufferer was tortured with severe spasms, in -all his limbs and the abdominal muscles, which caused indescribable -distress. Notwithstanding every known remedy was applied, the spasms -became more general and severe; the respiration more difficult; -the distress more insupportable; the prostration increased until -insensibility supervened, and death finally closed the terrific scene, -eleven hours after the attack. I have selected but two, out of many -cases, which will serve to show the terrific and appalling effects -produced by one of the greatest scourges that ever visited the world. - -Finding the disease fast spreading, and fearful that it might sweep -off a large portion of the crew, orders were given to get the ship -ready for sea, when sufficient provisions could be obtained, and to -seek a more salubrious air and the chances of health, in the China sea. -To be compelled to leave a comparatively healthy and pleasant abode -on shore, for a floating hospital, tainted with a highly infectious -atmosphere, was painful and dangerous, but such was our lot; for thirty -sick-hammocks were slung on the starboard side of the gun-deck, when we -weighed anchor, and a panic was visible in the countenances of nearly -the whole crew. We finally, lost seven men, but many of those who were -attacked and recovered, suffered from impaired constitutions, became -the victims to other diseases, and eventually died. - -We got under way towards sunset, on the second of November, and having -passed close under the stern of his Britannic majesty's ship Alligator, -to take leave of Captain Lambert, her amiable and worthy commander, -together with our friends, Messrs. Strachan, Sturges, and Edwards, of -Manila, who were assembled on her quarter-deck for that purpose, the -British flag being run up at our main; during this exchange of friendly -salutations, we filled away with a fine breeze, and in about three -hours, passed the island of Correjidor, and stood out to sea. For the -two following days the wind was very light; on the third, we made cape -Bolina. - -[Sidenote: CHINESE VESSELS.] - -Returning health was very visible among the crew in this short space of -time: no new case of cholera occurred after we inhaled the invigorating -and healthy ocean air. On the fifth day our _barbarian eyes_ were -_blessed_ with a sight of the _celestial empire_, consisting of several -islands. Seventy or eighty miles from land, we fell in with a great -number of fishing junks, of clumsy construction, having the appearance -of the antediluvian vessels exhibited in the old bibles, with mat or -bamboo sails; they were always observed in pairs, having whole families -of the "celestials" in them, dressed in the ordinary garb of common, -dirty fishermen; generally without any covering to the head--but little -to the back, and that in a most filthy condition. When within two -leagues of the Lemma or Ladrone islands, a junk lowered her sails close -to us, and in about five minutes, two of the "heavenly creatures" came -on board, in a small skiff, offering themselves as pilots, being as -guiltless of any knowledge of our language as we were of theirs; they -were dressed in tan-coloured jackets and immense wide breeches, or -rather petticoat trousers, reaching just below the knee, and wearing -a greasy woollen cap--shirts have never been in fashion with them. -They were very uncleanly in their persons, stout built, and healthy. -Having stepped on board, the first words they uttered, were, "Capetany -me peloto--you wanty peloto?" "Yes," said the captain. "How muchy, how -muchy, capetany, you gib?" taking at the same time, from the waistband -of his trousers, twenty Chinese cash, and counting them in his hand, -he said, "Dollar, dollar, so muchy, so muchy." The captain counted out -one half the number, which was the usual pilotage to Macao roads. The -"celestial" then added three to the number, making thirteen, and the -bargain was made, he not forgetting to ask, as is usual, for a bottle -of samshew, (rum,) which he snugly stowed away in his bosom. Scarcely -had he taken half a dozen strides up and down the deck, and pointed to -steer more to port, before he asked for chow, chow, meaning something -to eat, which, to his astonished eyes, was furnished forthwith, in a -lordly dish, on a chest on the quarter-deck. He pointed occasionally -to starboard or larboard, through the labyrinths of islands. In the -course of four or five hours we anchored under the mountainous island -of Lautavee, during the night. The pilot, having received his money -next morning, with a countenance indicative of extreme happiness, and -ascertained carefully, that every dollar was good, took his leave, -having been almost useless. I went over to Macao the next morning, -passing through a fleet of sampans, (small boats,) navigated by -damsels, that one might almost deem amphibious, in which dwell whole -families, in a most miserable condition. I landed close to the quay, -leading to the Beach Hotel, kept by Markwick, an Englishman, fronting -on Pria Grande, a public walk, without trees, facing the outer harbour -and islands. The ship finally anchored at Linting, (Ling-ting,) which -is eighteen miles from Macao, and twenty-five from the Bogue, or mouth -of the river. This island was scarcely inhabited till 1814, when, in -consequence of a dispute between the British and Chinese, the company's -ships remained here for some time. Population increasing, supplies of -vegetables and beef became plentiful, and induced American and other -ships to make it a place of rendezvous; but the importation of opium -being prohibited, both at Canton and Macao, at this time, the vessels -engaged in importing that article, repaired to this anchorage, when -they found every facility through Chinese boats, to smuggle or to -purchase it. This was the origin of the opium go-downs, as they are -technically called, or receiving ships, for this and other articles -for the Canton market. There are now, in 1832, from seven to eight -ships engaged in this illegal traffic. Among this number there is one -American vessel, the Linting, and occasionally there are two. In the -commencement of the northeast monsoon, in October, ships repair to this -place, where they usually lie to the end of April; when the southwest -monsoon commencing, they remove to the north end of the island, where -they stay six weeks, and then remove to Cap-sin-moon, (Cap-shuy-moon,) -a more secure, but less convenient anchorage.[A] There are now six -villages in Linting; in 1814, there were not more than sixty persons on -the island; in 1821, not quite two thousand, and now, the estimate is -upward of five thousand. - -[A] Goods are trans-shipped from these places, without government -deriving any advantage. - -We found here, at anchor, about thirty sail of fine English and -American ships. The next afternoon we landed on Linting, with a small -party, at a miserable filthy village. From the hills, on the back part -of the village, we obtained an extensive view of the bay, the extended -surface of which was dotted with thousands of boats. The islands around -are miserably barren, worn into deep furrows, along their broken, -hilly sides; and, excepting a few terraces, formed along their base, -on which upland rice and a few vegetables are grown, have altogether -a desolate appearance. When we entered the village, (containing about -twenty or thirty huts,) every man, woman, and child, turned out to see -the barbarian ladies and gentlemen. A more ragged, filthy assemblage -was, perhaps, never before seen. We hurried through, obliging them not -to press too closely upon us, fearful some of their old acquaintance, -apparently the rightful inheritors of their persons, might, contrary -to our wishes, transfer themselves to us. The next evening, Captain -Geisinger and myself went to Whampoa. Nothing worthy of notice took -place on our passage, excepting that sacrifice was made at every Jos -House we passed, by burning sacred paper at the bows of the boat, so -that we might be favoured with a fair wind. The same ceremony was -performed with the boats passing down, so that the god, or jos, was -completely puzzled; and therefore it was occasionally calm. The wind, -to show the impartiality of its director, would, at times, blow down -the Taho, or Tigris, against us, then die away, and give us a partially -fair wind. - -As soon as the captain of the boat found it was coming aft, he placed -some oranges before a hideous painted god, in the little altar, which -all boats, ships, and shops, possess, lighted it up well, put some -odoriferous matches in a vessel of sand, and set them on fire. "Now," -said he, "we sail hab fair win. Spose me tak care for Jos, Jos tak care -for me." I really thought the bargain a fair one; and both parties held -honestly to their agreement, for we had a fair wind the remainder of -the passage; but Jos, having a bad appetite, we "turned to" and eat up -his supper, very much to the discomfiture of the captain. - -[Sidenote: WHAMPOA ISLAND.] - -It being Sunday, we attended a Bethel-meeting on board the ship -Superior; the service being performed by the Rev. Mr. Stevens, who had -just arrived from New Haven. We found, lying in Whampoa-reach, a great -number of English and American vessels, extending from two to three -miles. Whampoa, where the ships anchor, is between Dane and French -islands, and part of the island of Whampoa. Foreigners are allowed to -visit Danes' island, but they are not allowed to visit the city of -Whampoa, the suburbs being filled with vile wretches, who endeavour, -upon every occasion, to create a quarrel, by using insulting language -and throwing stones; and when they outnumber the foreigners, a hundred -to one, they beat them with long bamboos, to the great risk of their -lives. The land on Whampoa island, is generally very low, and banked, -to keep out the tide. It is well cultivated with rice, cane, savo-root, -and other vegetables. Several pagodas are in sight from the anchorage, -and one that has been built "time out of mind," is near the town of -Whampoa, nine stories high. - -[Sidenote: CITY OF CANTON.] - -At noon, we left the shipping for Canton, and in three hours arrived -at the factories, situated near the river, in the suburbs of the city -of Canton. The river was thickly covered with boats going in all -directions, from the humble sampan to the gay and splendid mandarin -boats, having streamers flying, gongs beating, and manned with a great -number of oars. Numberless boats were fishing, with every sort of -apparatus; others conveying the harvest of rice home, sculled by two -long oars, each manned by six stout fellows, the perspiration running -down their almost naked bodies in streams. - -Every foot of land is cultivated or covered with buildings; boats, -without number, are moored along its banks the whole distance; but -within three or four miles of the factories, the crowd of vessels was -prodigious. Large men-of-war junks, of a most unwieldly and primitive -construction; flower-boats, kept for infamous purposes; pleasure-boats; -marriage-boats; and boats which carry bands of comedians, were lying in -all directions. Many of them have beautiful lattice-work sides, painted -green, and gilt with good taste. All the vessels on the river have one -distinguishing mark, an immense large eye on each side of the bow. "How -can you see," say the Chinese, "spose hab no eye?" Small ferry-boats, -the residence of whole families, are constantly plying between the -city, or rather the suburbs, and Houani; also, boats laden with tea and -silk goods, from the interior or going to Whampoa; market, victualling, -and pedlars' boats; boats of a peculiar construction, laden with oil in -bulk; others filled with coarse China ware, bamboo hats, and baskets; -umbrellas, and beautiful lanterns, covered with various devices; -and every thing that can be named, from silks and teas to fat pups, -fish-maws, and trussed rats. - -The factories, or hongs, for foreign merchants, are pleasantly -situated, fronting the only open space of ground within the suburbs. -They are generally built in a neat style, but with slight pretensions -to architecture. - -The city of Canton is built on a plain, encircled by a high wall, at -the foot of barren hills. I looked into the city through three of -the gates; the streets present a corresponding appearance to those -in the suburbs, being extremely narrow, and paved with hewn granite; -the tops of the houses nearly united, so that bamboo poles are laid -across from roof to roof, on which awnings are spread to protect -the inhabitants from the intense heat of the sun. The common houses -are extremely filthy; there is no circulation of air through them. -Notwithstanding the extreme narrowness of the streets, (only two -persons can conveniently pass,) fish-mongers and butchers, victuallers, -and venders of Jos paper and Jos sticks, &c., are permitted to encumber -them; so that when a lady, or lordly mandarin passes, in a sedan-chair, -or a cooly, with his burden, the cry of ly, ly, (make room, make -room,) is constantly ringing in your ears, to the great annoyance of -the passengers in the extremely thronged alleys. Oblong signs, of a -vermilion colour, with large golden letters, line both sides of the -streets, so as to hide the lower parts of the buildings: they make, -notwithstanding, a very gay appearance. The basement story of every -house, seems to have in it a shop filled with merchandise; and every -third house, I believe, has some eatables for sale: bird's-nests, -fish-maws, shark-fins, dried oysters, muscles, deer-sinews, fish of all -kinds, pork, beef, &c. - -All kinds of strange compounds are cooked in the streets and are -frequently made of vile materials, such as are never sold in any other -country. Vast numbers of shops are filled with gilt paper--paper -men, women, and beasts, of all sorts, with or without horns, and of -frightful shapes; some with moveable goggle eyes, and moveable heads, -painted of all colours, with mouths extending from ear to ear, intended -for offerings to a temple or Jos-house. A small oven is built at every -shop-door, in which to burn incense to their penates or household -gods, and in every shop, house, boat, and junk, altars are erected, -surrounded by a frightful paper Jos, ornamented with painted and gilt -paper, and having odoriferous matches burning before it. - -In company with an American missionary, the highly respectable and -Reverend Mr. Bridgham, who has made great proficiency in the Chinese -language, and is extending his researches in various ways, more -especially in teaching a number of Chinese youths, &c., I paid a visit -to the great idol temple of Honam, opposite the city, on the south -side of the river, which is here about fifty rods wide.[A] This great -temple and monastery contain one hundred and seventy-four priests. The -general character given of these, by the Chinese, is, that they are -great debauchees, gamblers, and common mendicants; like the criminals, -their heads are close shaven, they not being suffered to wear the -long braided queue; and they are held in no manner of respect by the -people. The temple is said to be immensely wealthy. These priests are -of the sect of Firk, or Budha, and the temple, or rather succession -of temples, would, including the gardens, in which they raise large -quantities of vegetable and other fruits, cover an area of twelve -acres. Their diet is composed of fruits and vegetables. Meat and fowls -being expressly forbidden them. - -[A] The legend of the _Jos House_, Hoe-chong-sze or Idol temple of -Honam:-- - -Jos is a corruption of the Portuguese word Deos, God. Every idol -temple is here called a Jos House; to worship any superior being is -expressed by, to Chin-chen-Jos. This great temple was, originally, -a garden, belonging to the family of Ko; about eight hundred years -since, a small Budha temple was built and named, Tseen-tsow-sze, "the -temple of ten thousand autumns." It remained an obscure place till -about the year 1600, when a priest of eminent devotion raised its -character, and his disciple "Oh-tzze," by his superior talents and -sanctity, together with a concurrence of extraordinary circumstances, -raised the temple to its present magnificence and extent. During the -reign of Kang He, the second of the reigning Tartar dynasty, in the -year 1700, Canton province was not fully subjugated; and the emperor's -son-in-law, entitled Ping-naw-wong, "the subjugator of the south," -reduced the whole to his father's sway, and took up his headquarters -in the Honam temple, according to the Tartar and Chinese usage. -There were, on the island, thirteen villages which he had orders to -exterminate. Previously to carrying into effect this order, the king, -a blood-thirsty man, cast his eyes on Oh-tzze, a fat, happy, priest, -and remarked, that were he to live on a vegetable diet, he could not -be so fat--he must be a hypocrite, and should be punished with death. -He drew his sword to put in effect the sentence; but the limb suddenly -withered, and thus prevented its execution. That night a divine person -appeared to him in a dream, and warned him that Oh-tzze was a holy -man, and must not, unjustly, be killed. The following morning the king -presented himself before Oh-tzze, confessed his crime, and immediately -his arm was restored. He then did obeisance to the priest, took him for -his preceptor and guide, and, morning and evening, waited on him as a -servant. The thirteen villages heard of this miracle and solicited the -priest to intercede in their behalf: he complied with their request, -was successful, and the Honam villages were saved. Their gratitude to -the priest was unbounded; and estates, incense, and money, were poured -upon him. The king also persuaded his officers to make donations to the -temple, and it became affluent from that day. A hall for the celestial -kings was still wanting, and by seizing a fishpond belonging to a -wealthy man who had refused to sell it, sufficient ground was obtained -upon which to build it. The pond was filled up and built upon within -the short space of thirty days. It is sometimes called the Lok-wa-sze, -"the green temple." - -[Sidenote: GREAT IDOL TEMPLE.] - -Entering under a gateway, guarded by strong wooden bars, we passed -over a paved flagging, to what is called, "Hill Gate." It retains this -name, because the Budha priests affect to separate themselves from -the rest of mankind, and to live among hills and mountains--hence, -although a monastery be on a level plain, as it is here, the first -gate leading thereto, is always called "Hill Gate." From "Hill Gate," -we proceeded to the "Sea screen," and from thence to the "Angler's -eminence;" the origin of the latter name, I could not ascertain. We -proceeded onward to a building, having a roof similar to that seen on -China ware, and which was placed transversely across the passage. The -first objects which saluted our eyes, were two immense statues, in a -standing position, occupying each side of the passage; they are called, -"Huay Ha," warriors; are not less than fifteen feet high, and present -a most threatening aspect, having eyes nearly the size of a hat-crown, -with a mouth of immense width, showing a long protruding fiery tongue; -these frightful objects were painted in gaudy colours and gilt; before -them were placed in white copper vessels--odoriferous matches in -sand. They are thus placed, as guards to the temple of Budha. After -passing a court-yard, similar to the first, I entered the pavilion or -palace of the great celestial kings, containing four colossal statues, -in a sitting posture, upward of twenty feet high, and gilt most -fantastically, but having placid countenances. The roof is supported -by thirty-two highly lacquered pillars. On the right and left, in two -small pavilions, are two military demi-gods, guarding, as I suppose, -the wings of the "great temple." The principal hall or pavilion, which -I now entered, is called "The great, powerful, precious palace," and -the "Golden coloured region;" fronting the entrance is the "Precious -Budhas," "The past," "present," and "to come," being three large gilt -images of Budha, called, in Chinese, Sam, Pow, and Fat. They are -moderate in size, compared with the monsters in the rear of them. The -artist aimed at giving them a benign aspect, and if immensely swollen -cheeks, sleepy eyes, and a drunkard's countenance, form the true -expression of the milder virtues, it may here be seen to perfection. -On each side of the hall, eighteen disciples of Budha, are arranged; -they are kept well dressed, by the gilder and painter, and appear to -be very attentive to certain tablets placed before them, covered with -inscriptions. - -Religious ceremonies are performed daily by the priests, before these -divinities, dressed, generally, in long scarlet cloaks, with hoods, -(similar in shape to those worn by the Roman Catholic priests when -saying mass,) praying and kneeling occasionally, doing reverence with -both hands, closed together flat, raised to the head, or lowered to -the breast and waist; and sometimes prostrating themselves to perform -the ko-tow or knock-head ceremony, by striking their foreheads on the -ground. During the time, incense is burning before the altar, in the -shape of economical matches, highly odoriferous, being as slender as -a knitting-needle, and are placed in white copper vessels. The roof -of this great temple is supported by forty-two red lacquered pillars, -having on them gilt inscriptions. The ceiling and rafters are so -painted as to give an agreeable effect. The hall is about a hundred -feet square. Another temple, to which we proceeded, stands in the -rear of the great hall; here is a single image of Amida Budha, in the -Chinese language, called, "Omb-to-Fat." In the rear of the hall is a -white marble obelisk, having various idols carved upon it; in the room, -immediately behind this, is the palace of the goddess "Koon-Yan," who -is much adored; she is considered Budha; for, as in Bengal, Budha is -of either sex, according to the statues or images. This hall or palace -has in it the same number of pillars as that possessed by the great -temple--forty-two. There are four buildings erected on the right wing -of these temples, and five on the left, but all detached. First, and on -the right, is the place of a military demi-god; the second building, -is a place for keeping alive domestic animals, pigs, fowls, ducks, -and geese, agreeably to the leading doctrine of the sect, that no -animal should be deprived of life; the devout send these animals to -the temple, when they make or pay vows, or return thanks, for favours -received. It is evident that the pious depositor of the hogs could not -have been a descendant of the ancient tribes of Israel, or he would -not have shown so much affection, as to put them out to board within -the precincts of the holy temple, and keep a number of "celestials" -in constant pay to attend to them. The third building contains the -bookroom and printing-office. In the fourth, in an upper room, are more -idols. The first, on the left, is a pavilion, containing a military -demi-god; the second is a reception-room for visiters; the third -contains the idol of "Te-song-Wang," the king of Hades; the fourth -holds the great bell; and the fifth is the chief priests' apartments. -In these, Lord Amherst and his suite were lodged, 1816 and 1817, on his -return from an unsuccessful embassy to the court of Peking. Three other -buildings close up the rear of the buildings, on the left wing, the -book-house, treasury, and refectory; the latter was dark and dirty, and -sent forth a compound of unpleasant smells. The kitchen, the utensils -of which, experience has taught them the inutility of cleaning, from -their after liability to dirt, resembled, in condition, the refectory, -which latter contained only long wooden tables and benches. In the -rear of the last temple, is the kitchen-garden, and a small pavilion, -erected to the memory of a deer, attached to its master. On the left is -a mausoleum, in which the ashes of burnt priests are deposited once a -year; near to which is a little shabby house, where the ashes are kept -in jars, till the time of the opening of the mausoleum. Farther on, in -the garden, is the place in which the bodies of the priests are burned, -in a small temple. Some priests, who possess a little property, direct -their remains shall be buried and not burnt. The cloisters in the -building, on the right and left of the temple, are small and gloomy; -the walls are any thing but white, having a table, with a small altar, -and a gayly-painted, ugly divinity on it; a wooden stool completed the -furniture. - -In one room a great number of tailors were at work, not for the poor -and naked, but for these idle vagabonds. Passing through a small room, -we were invited by a member of the _holy_ priesthood, to take tea, -which was served up to us in the Chinese style, being made in the same -cup from which we drank it, and taken without sugar or milk. Eight or -ten sweetmeats formed the repast, the holy brotherhood standing around -us during the time, "thick as autumnal leaves in Vallambrosa," curious, -doubtless, to know if _mortals_ and _barbarians_ ate in the same way as -the "celestials." - -[Sidenote: MINOR TEMPLES.] - -There are not less than one hundred and twenty-four large and small -temples in Canton; and in the province, thirteen hundred and -twenty-seven. Public altars are here, in great number, dedicated to -the gods of the land and of grain, of the wind and clouds, of thunder -and rain, of hills, rivers, &c. At these, as in all the temples, -sacrifices and offerings, consisting of various animals, fish, fowls, -fruits, sweetmeats, cakes, and wines, are frequently presented, both -by government officers and by private citizens. Numerous attendants -are placed at the altars, within these temples of sacrifice, whose -lives are devoted to the service of the idols. On the birthday of the -gods, and at other times, processions are fitted out at the various -temples; the images are borne in state through the principal streets in -the city, attended by bands of musicians, priests, lads on horseback, -girls riding in open sedans, old men and boys, bearing lanterns, -incense, pots, flags, and other insignia; by lictors, with rattans, -and soldiers, with wooden swords. In addition to these processions, -the different streets and trades have their religious festivals, which -they celebrate with illuminations, bonfires, songs, and theatrical -exhibitions. Much extravagance is displayed on these occasions, -each company and street striving to excel all its neighbours. The -private and domestic altars, shrines crowded with household gods -and daily offerings, of gilt paper, candles, incense, &c.; together -with numberless ceremonies, occasioned by nuptials, or the burial -of the dead, complete the long catalogue of the religious rites and -institutions, which are supported by the people of Canton. The whole -number of priests and nuns, (there are said to be a thousand of the -latter,) is, probably, not less than three thousand, and the annual -expense of the one hundred and twenty-four temples, may be put down, on -a moderate estimate, at two hundred thousand dollars. An equal sum is -required to support the annual monthly and semi-monthly festivals and -daily rites, which are observed by the people, in honour of their gods. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - BUDHISM--TOMBS OF ANCESTORS--CEREMONIES--ORIGIN - OF TUMULI OR TOMBS--SACRIFICES TO - CONFUCIUS--PAN-HWNY-PAN--INFANTICIDE--CHARITABLE - INSTITUTIONS--GOVERNMENT GRATUITIES. - - -[Sidenote: BUDHISM.] - -Having given a description of the principal temples, &c., I shall now -state some particulars relative to the introduction of the Budhism -religion into China, and show what are the principles professed by its -disciples, at the present day. - -In the sixty-fifth year of the Christian era, the emperor Ming-te -invited the first priests; they were probably natives of Ceylon.--The -invitation was given in consequence of dreams, which informed him that -the "Holy One" was in the West. - -The ancient Chinese worshippers retained some knowledge of a Supreme -Being, yet the worship they paid to the visible heavens, the earth, -rivers, bulls, and above all, to dragons and the gods of lands, was -open idolatry. Subsequently, Confucius arose; he inculcated the -necessity of reverencing those whom the ancients had worshipped. -His wish was to promote the social happiness of his countrymen, -independently of the influence which religion exerts over a nation; his -great aim was the introduction of decorum and order into all the duties -of life; and to the strict observance of _external_ ceremonies, he -reduced the whole of religion. His system being found very deficient, -Taou-tze, the mystic philosopher, stepped forward to supply the wants -of the multitude by his abstruse speculations. According to his system, -all nature is filled with demons and genii, who constantly influence -the fate of man. He increased the number of idol gods to an enormous -amount, and attempted to define with scholastic precision, their nature -and offices. His demonology wanted perspicuity and contained too many -palpable absurdities to be generally received. Some of the emperors, -though declaring themselves believers in Taouism, could never introduce -a general acquiescence in doctrines which no one understood. China -wanted a creed which every man might understand; and the Budhists -supplied the desideratum;--accommodating their doctrines to all -existing superstitions, they opened the door to every description of -convert, who might retain as many of his old prejudices as he chose: -they were not rigorous in enforcing the obligations of morality; to -expiate sins, offerings to the idols and priests were sufficient. A -temple built in honour of any idol and richly endowed, would suffice -to blot out every stain of guilt and serve as a portal to the blessed -mansions of Budha. When death approached, they promised to each of -their votaries, speedy promotion in the scale of metempsychosis until -he should be absorbed in Nirupan or Nirvana--nonentity. With these -prospects, the poor deluded victim left the world. To facilitate his -release from purgatory, the ghostly hypocrites said mass, and supplied -the wants of the hungry departed spirit with rich offerings of food, of -which the latter enjoyed only the odour, while the priests devoured the -substance. As Confucius had raised the veneration for ancestors into -idolatrous worship, these priests were ready to perform their pious -offices before the tablets of the dead. Thus they became ingratiated -with the credulous multitude, who were too happy to avail themselves -of their cheap services. But notwithstanding the accommodating spirit -of their creed, the Chinese government has at times disapproved of -it. As the sanctity of marriage has been acknowledged in China from -time immemorial and almost every person at years of maturity has been -obliged to enter into that state, the celibacy of the priesthood of -Budha was considered as a very dangerous custom. - -Budha regarded contemplation and exemption from worldly cares, as the -nearest approach to bliss; his followers, therefore, in imitation of -their master, passed and inculcated lives of indolence, and practised -begging, as the proper means of maintaining themselves. This mode of -livelihood was diametrically opposed to the political institutions of -China, where even the emperor does not disdain to plough. It was also -in opposition to the actual condition and wants of the people; a system -of idleness, in the immense population of the empire, would have been -followed by actual starvation, and a consequent serious diminution in -the number of inhabitants; for it is by the utmost exertion that they -are able to subsist. These serious objections to the foreign creed, -furnished its enemies with weapons by which to destroy it. It was -proscribed as a dangerous heresy, and a cruel persecution followed; but -it had taken too deep root to be easily eradicated. Among some of the -emperors too, it found abettors and disciples. Yet it never became a -religion of the state, nor were its priests ever able to exercise any -permanent influence over the populace. The Chinese are too rational -a people to believe, implicitly, all the Budhistic fables, nor can -they persuade themselves that the numerous images are gods. When we -add to this, their national apathy towards every thing connected with -religion, they being entirely engrossed with the things of this life, -we can easily account for their disesteem of Budhism. Nor can we wonder -that they worship at one time, the divinities they despise at another, -for ancient custom bids them follow in the track of their ancestors, -without inquiry or doubt, even when they cannot but ridicule its -absurdities. - -The priests of Budha are a very despised class, and spring chiefly -from the lowest and most ignorant of the people. Their morals are -notoriously bad, and pinching poverty has made them cringing and -servile. They wander abroad in search of some trifling gift, and often -encounter a very harsh refusal. - -Those temples which are well endowed by their founders, are crowded -with priests, so that only a few among the higher orders of them -can be rich. Stupidity, with a few exceptions, is their reigning -characteristic; neither skill nor learning is to be found among -them. Budha seems to have intimated that stupidity brings the votary -nearer to the blissful state of apathy, and therefore a knowledge -of his institutions is considered as the only requisite to form an -accomplished priest. The Budhists have no schools or seminaries, for -the instruction of their believers, seldom strive for literary honours, -and are even excluded from the list of candidates, so long as they -remain priests. Few among them are serious in the practice of their own -religion; they are in the most complete sense of the words, sullen and -misanthropic, and live a very secluded life. But religious abstraction -and deep contemplation, with utter oblivion of existence, appear to -be out of vogue. The halls of contemplation are the haunts of every -vice. Such effects must follow where the mind is unoccupied, and the -hands unemployed in any good work. The nuns are less numerous and more -industrious than the priests. It is a general observation that nearly -all the temples of Budha are in a dilapidated state; the contributions -of devotees not meeting the expenses of repairs. These erections are -very numerous; there is scarcely a small village that has not one, and -few romantic and beautiful spots can be found free from these seats of -idolatry. - -The similarity of the rites of this superstition with those of papacy, -are striking: every one who visits the monasteries can at once discover -the resemblance. That they should count their prayers by means of a -rosary, and chant masses both for the living and the dead, live in a -state of celibacy and shave their hair, &c., might perhaps be accounted -for by a mere coincidence of errors into which men are prone to fall; -but their divine adoration of Teenhow, "the queen of heaven," must be a -tenet engrafted upon Budhism from foreign traditions. We are unable to -fix the exact period at which this deity was adopted. There is a legend -of modern date among the people of Farh-keen, which tells us that she -was a virgin of that province, who, in a dream, saw her kindred in -danger of being wrecked, and boldly rescued them; but this affords no -satisfactory solution; neither is "the queen of heaven," among the -deities which the Siamese Budhists worship, though they possess the -whole orthodox code of demons. It is probable that some degenerate -Nestorian Christians amalgamated with their faith and ceremonies, the -prevailing errors of China, and persuaded the priests of Budha to adopt -many of their rites. - -Though the Siamese priesthood resembles the papal clergy, it does not -exhibit so striking a similarity as the Chinese. Moreover, the Budhists -of China have received all the sages which have been canonized by the -emperors or by public credulity. Mr. Gutzlaff says he saw, in one -instance, a marble bust of Napoleon, which they had placed in a temple, -and before which they burned incense; hence it would not be surprising -if they had also adopted among their gods so conspicuous an object -of worship as the "virgin," who was adored by so many millions of -Christians. The present dynasty seems to have declared itself in favour -of the great Da-lai-lama of Thibet. As the Mongols on the northern -frontier are much devoted to the rites of Shamanism, and worship its -presiding deity, it was perhaps with a view to conciliate the good -will and keep in subjection these wild hordes, that the preference -was manifested. The religion of these barbarians being a modification -of Budhism, we might expect that the Chinese government would equally -extend its benevolence to the Budhist of China. Such does not appear -to be the fact; they are tolerated but receive no stated support from -the government; to some temples the emperors may extend his individual -charity, but this is not governmental patronage. If the high offices -of the state occasionally favour this sect, they never openly avow it; -such a disclosure would derogate from their fame and expose them to the -ridicule of their colleagues. In the midst of all these difficulties -a numerous priesthood do find subsistence. On certain festivals the -temples are crowded to excess, and the exclamation, "O-me-to-fuh" is -familiar to the ear of every one who visits them. I have thus given -a sketch of Budhism, a religion which strikes at the root of human -society, in enjoining celibacy as the nearest approach to perfection, -and in commanding its disciples to abandon relatives and friends, -without fulfilling their duties as citizens, parents and children. -We are bound to concede that this unnatural restraint is the source -of vice and crime; at the same time we must in justice admit that -Budhism does not sanction shocking rites, or Bacchanalian orgies, like -other idolatrous systems in Asia; nor have we to complain of that -indecency in its idol exhibitions, which is common to the religion -of the Hindoos; the wooden deities are hideous, but never repulsive -to the feelings of modesty. The temples are open to all, and serve -occasionally for theatres, gambling-houses and taverns. The Chinese -Budhists are a temporizing sect; their abstinence from animal food is -not very strict. They seldom defend their idols, or appear much annoyed -when they are treated with contempt;--their toleration arises from -indifference; all religions, with them, are equally safe, but theirs -is the best. They have no desire to proselyte, their numbers being -already too great, and are far from spiritualizing their idolatrous -systems. They talk of hungry demons and of the spiritual presence of -the idols in their statues, but this is all. To assert they adore one -Supreme Being in their idolatrous representations of his attributes, is -to state an opinion that never found a place in their thoughts, or in -their canonical works. They are without God in the world, and estranged -from the divine life, worshipping the works of their own hands, to the -disgrace of human reason. - -[Sidenote: CEREMONIES.] - -Having previously alluded to the superstitious rites performed by the -Chinese, at the tombs of their ancestors, parents and friends, I here -give a more detailed description of this idolatrous custom, together -with an account of the gluttonous and drunken feast, which is the -finale of what is misnamed a _religious_ observance. The description is -translated from an original Chinese composition:-- - -That this custom did not exist anterior to the age of Confucius is -inferred from the words of Mericius, who affirms that in the preceding -ages men did not even inter their deceased kindred but threw their -dead bodies into ditches, by the roadside. As they had no tombs there -could be no sacrifices performed at them. Confucius directed _tumuli_ -to be raised, in order to mark the place of interment; this is the -first intimation of tombs, given among the Chinese. In raising these -_tumuli_ there was probably no other intention than that of erecting -a mark to the abodes of the dead. It is also known that children, in -that early age, would remain in temporary sheds, for years near the -grave of a parent, to "sorrow as those without hope." But we proceed to -exhibit the _present_ state of these ceremonies as being all that is -of practical utility, in deciding the question at issue. The Chinese -visit the tombs, twice a year, in spring, and in autumn. The first -visit is called _tsing-ming_, "clear bright," in reference to the fine -weather, which is then expected: the second is called _tsew-tse_, "the -autumnal sacrifice." The rites performed during _tsing-ming_, are -those most generally attended by the Chinese. Their governors teach -that the prosperity of individuals and of families depends greatly -on the position, dryness, and good repair of their parents' graves. -Therefore, "to sweep" and repair them, to mark their limits, and to see -that they are not encroached upon by others, are the objects of visits -to the tombs. When there are large clans, which have descended from -the same ancestors, living in the same neighbourhood, they repair in -great numbers, to the performance of the sacrificial rites. Rich and -poor, all assemble. Even beggars repair to the tombs, to kneel down and -worship. This usage is known by the phrases _saou-fun-moo_, "sweeping -the tombs," and _paeshan_, "worshipping the _tumuli_." To omit these -observances, is considered a great offence against moral propriety, -and a breach of filial duty. The common belief is that good fortune, -domestic prosperity, honours and riches, all depend on an impulse -given at the tombs of ancestors. Hence, the practice is universal; and -when the men are absent from their families, the women go to perform -the rites. - -On some of these occasions, even where there are two or three thousand -members of a clan, some possessing great wealth, and others holding -high rank in the state, all, old and young, rich and poor, are summoned -to meet at the _tsoo-tsung tsze-tang_, "the ancestral hall." Pigs -are slaughtered; sheep are slain; and all sorts of offerings and -sacrifices are provided in abundance. The processions from the hall -to the tombs, on these occasions, are formed in the most grand style, -which the official rank of the principal persons will admit--with -banners, tablets, gongs, &c., &c., &c. All present, old men and -boys, are dressed in the best robes which they can procure; and thus -escorting the victims for sacrifice, and carrying wine for oblations, -they proceed to the tombs of their ancestors, and arrange the whole -in order, preparatory to the grand ceremony. There is a _choo tse_, -"lord of the sacrifice," appointed to officiate as priest, a master of -ceremonies, to give the word of command, and two stewards to aid in the -performance of the rites. There is also a reader to recite the prayer; -and a band of musicians, drummers, gong-beaters, &c. - -After all things are in readiness, the whole party stands still till -the "master" gives the word. He first cries with a loud voice: "Let the -official persons take their places:" this is immediately done, and the -ceremonies proceed. - -_Master._ "Strike up the softer music." Here the smaller instruments -begin to play. - -_Master._ "Kneel." The priest then kneels in a central place, fronting -the grave, and behind him, arranged in order, the aged and the -honourable, the children and grandchildren, all kneel down. - -_Master._ "Present the incense." Here the stewards take three sticks of -incense, and present them to the priest. He rises, makes a bow towards -the grave, and then plants one of the sticks in an immense vase, in -front of the tombstone. The same form is repeated a second and a third -time. - -_Master._ "Rise up." The priest and the party stand up. - -_Master._ "Kneel." Again the priest and all the people kneel down. - -_Master._ "Knock head." Here all bending forward, and leaning on their -hands, knock their foreheads against the ground. - -_Master._ "Again knock head." This is forthwith done. - -_Master._ "Knock head a third time." This is also done. Then he also -calls out: Rise up; kneel; knock head;--till the three kneelings, and -the nine knockings are completed. All this is done in the same manner -as the highest act of homage is paid to the emperor, or of worship, to -the supreme powers, heaven and earth. This being ended, the ceremonies -proceed. - -_Master._ "Fall prostrate." This is done by touching the ground with -his knees, hands and forehead. - -_Master._ "Read the prayer." Here the reader approaches the front -of the tomb, holding in his hands a piece of white paper, on which -is written one of the sacrificial forms of prayer. These forms are -generally much the same; differing slightly according to the wish of -the composer. The form states the time; the name of the clan which -come to worship and offer sacrifice; beseeches the shades to descend -and enjoy the sacrifice, to grant protection and prosperity to their -descendants, that in all succeeding generations they may wear official -caps, may enjoy riches, and honours, and never become extinct, that by -the help of the souls in hades, the departed spirits, and the living -on earth may be happy, and illustrious throughout myriads of ages. The -prayer being finished, the master cries: "Offer up the gold and the -precious things." Here one of the stewards presents gilt papers to the -priest, and he bowing towards the grave, lays them down before it. - -_Master._ "Strike up the grand music." Here gongs, drums, trumpets, -&c., are beaten and blown to make a noise as loud as possible. - -_Master._ "Burn the gold and silver, and precious things." Here all -the young men and children burn the gilt papers, fire off crackers, -rockets, &c. - -Such is the sum of a grand sacrifice at the tombs of ancestors. But to -many, the best part of the ceremony is to come, which is the _feast_ of -the sacrifice. The roast pigs, rice, fowls, fish, fruits, and liquors, -are carried back to the ancestral hall; where according to age and -dignity, the whole party sit down to eat, drink and play. The grandees -discuss the condition of the hall, and other topics connected with the -honour of the clan; the young men carouse, and provoke each other to -"drink deep." Some set out for home with a catty or two of the divine -flesh, which had been used in sacrifice; others stay till they wrangle -and fight, and night puts an end to the entertainment. - -Those who live remote from the tombs, or who have no ancestral hall, -eat their sacrifice on the ground at the sepulchres. The poor imitate -their superiors, at an humble distance. Although they have no hall, -no procession or music, they provide three sorts of victims, a pig, a -goose, and a fish; some fruits, and a little distilled liquors--for -spirituous liquors are used on all these occasions. After presenting -these at the tomb, they kneel, knock head, and orally or mentally pray -for the aid of their ancestors' souls to make the existing and all -future generations of descendants, rich and prosperous. - -In these rites there is some difference in the wording of the prayer, -according as it is presented to remote ancestors or to lately deceased -parents or friends; but the general import is the same. - -[Sidenote: SACRIFICES TO CONFUCIUS.] - -Further to illustrate the modes "in which the Chinese worship Confucius -and the deceased," we subjoin the following extracts, from the -_Indo-Chinese Gleaner_:-- - -From the Shing-meaou-che, volume first, page second, it appears that -there are, in China, more than _one thousand, five hundred and sixty_ -temples dedicated to Confucius. At the spring and autumnal sacrifices -offered to him, it is calculated in the above-named work, that -there are immolated (on the two occasions) annually, six bullocks, -twenty-seven thousand pigs, five thousand eight hundred sheep, two -thousand eight hundred deer, and twenty-seven thousand rabbits. - -Thus, there are annually sacrificed to Confucius, in China, _sixty-two -thousand, six hundred and six victims_; it is added, there are offered -at the same time, _twenty-seven thousand, six hundred_ pieces of silk. -What becomes of these does not appear. - -[Sidenote: CHINESE WOMEN.] - -It has justly been remarked that a nation's civilization may -be estimated by the rank which females hold in society. If the -civilization of China be judged of by this test, she is far from -occupying that first place which she so strongly claims. Females have -always been regarded with contempt by the Chinese. Their ancient sages -seem to have considered them scarcely worthy of their attention. The -sum of the duties they require of them is, to submit to the will -of their masters. The lady, say they, who is to be betrothed to a -husband, ought to follow blindly the wishes of her parents, yielding -implicit obedience to their will. From the moment when she is joined in -wedlock, she ceases to exist; her whole being is absorbed in that of -her lord; she ought to know nothing but his will, and to deny herself -in order to please him. _Pan-hwny-pan_, who is much admired as an -historian, composed a book of instructions for her own sex, in which -she treats of their proper station in society, the deportment they -should exhibit, and the duties they ought to perform. She teaches them -that they "hold the lowest rank among mankind, and that employments -the least honourable, ought to be, and in fact are, their lot." She -inculcates entire submission to their husbands, and tells them in very -plain terms that they ought to become abject slaves, in order to become -good wives. We cannot expect that these doctrines, inculcated as they -are, by a _lady_, who ought to advocate the cause of her sex, and by -one held in so high repute as is _Pan-hwny-pan_, will be overlooked by -the "lords of creation;" especially as they accord so perfectly with -their domineering disposition, in China. - -Confucius, the prince of letters, _divorced his wife without assigning -any cause for so doing_; and his followers have invariably adopted -similar arbitrary measures in their treatment of females. The price -which is paid to the parents of the bride, constitutes her at once a -saleable commodity, and causes her to be regarded as differing little -from a mere slave. In the choice of a partner for life, she is entirely -passive, is carried to the house of the bridegroom, and there disposed -of, for life, by her parents. - -The birth of a female is a matter of grief in China. The father and -mother, who had already hoped in the unborn babe to embrace a son, -feel disappointed at the sight of a daughter. Many vows and offerings -are made before their idols in order to propitiate their favour, and -secure the birth of a son. The mercy of the compassionate Kuan-yin, -especially, is implored to obtain this precious gift; but after they -have spent large sums of money in this pious work, the inexorable -goddess fills the house with mourning at the birth of a daughter. -"Anciently," says _Pan-hwny-pan_, "the female infant was thrown upon -some old rags, by the side of its mother's bed, and for three days -was scarcely spoken or thought of. At the end of that time it was -carried to a temple by a father, accompanied by attendants with bricks -and tiles in their hands. The bricks and tiles," says Pan-hwny-pan, -in her comment on these facts, "signify the contempt and suffering -which are to be her companions and her portion--bricks are of no use -except to form enclosures and to be _trodden under foot_; tiles are -useless except when they are exposed to the injuries of the air." The -_Sheking_, one of the venerated books, says, - - "----When a daughter is born, - She sleeps on the ground, - She is clothed with a wrapper: - She plays with a tile: - She is incapable either of evil or good." - -This last assertion is thus explained; "if she does ill she is not a -woman--and if she does well she is not a woman; a slavish submission -is her duty and her highest praise." At the present day, as well as -anciently, the female infant is not unfrequently an object of disgust -to its parents, and of contempt to all the inmates of the family. -As she grows up, her feet are so confined and cramped that they can -never exceed the size of infancy. This process entirely incapacitates -her from walking with ease or safety. Small feet, that badge of -bondage which deprives the Chinese females of the power of locomotion, -confines them to the inner apartments, except when poverty forces -them to earn their livelihood abroad by labour, which is rendered -exceedingly difficult and painful if accompanied by walking. Females -of the higher class seldom leave the house, except in sedan-chairs. -Their lives are but an honourable captivity. They have few or no real -enjoyments--are exceedingly ignorant--very few of them being able to -read. They live and die little more than ciphers in human society. -Pale and emaciated, they spend the greatest part of their lives in -embellishing their persons; while females of the poorer classes, whose -feet are necessarily permitted to grow to the size which the God of -nature designed, perform all the drudgery of husbandry and other kinds -of work. These last are in general very industrious, and prove to be -helpmates to their husbands. Being remarkable for their good, sound -understanding, they manage their families with a care and prudence, -and so far as industry and economy are concerned, they are exemplary -mothers. Nothwithstanding the degradation in which they are held, they -are generally far superior in intellect to the common cast of Asiatic -women--are very ingenious in their needlework, &c. To be a good -mother, in the estimation of this class of the Chinese, a woman must be -a weaver. It is to be regretted, that they have very little regard for -the cleanliness either of their persons or houses; their children crawl -in the dirt, and the few articles of furniture in their dwellings are -covered with filth. - -Infanticide of females is not unknown among the Chinese. They are far -from regarding this crime with the horror it deserves. "It is only a -female," is the answer generally given when they are reproved for it. - -The account of the _Charitable Institutions_ of Canton is brief. They -are few in number, of small extent, and of recent origin:-- - -First: Yuh-ying-tang, or the "foundling hospital." This institution -was founded in 1698, and it was rebuilt and considerably enlarged -in 1732. It stands without the walls of the city, on the east--has -accommodations for two or three hundred children, and is maintained at -an annual expense of two thousand, five hundred and twenty-two taels. - -Second: Yang-tse-yuen.--This is a retreat for poor, aged and infirm, or -blind people, who have no friends to support them. It stands near the -foundling hospital, and like it, enjoys imperial patronage, receiving -annually, five thousand, one hundred taels. Both this sum, and that for -yuh-ying-tang, are received in part, or wholly, from duties, paid by -those _foreign_ ships which bring rice to Canton. Every such ship must -pay the sum of six hundred and twenty taels, which, by imperial order, -is appropriated to these two hospitals. The number of "rice-ships," -last year, was twenty-eight, yielding the sum of seventeen thousand, -three hundred and sixty taels. The English, American, Dutch, Spanish, -and Portuguese, are the only foreign vessels that bring rice to Canton. - -Third: Ma-fung-yuen, or the "hospital for lepers." This is also on the -east side of the city; the number of patients in it, is three hundred -and forty-one, who are supported at an expense of three hundred taels -per annum! The condition of the three hospitals, if such they may be -called, is wretched in the extreme. The foundlings are often those -children which have been exposed; and who, when grown up, are often -sold, and not unfrequently, for the worst of purposes. Such is a -specimen of the benevolent institutions of the celestial empire! - -[Sidenote: GOVERNMENT GRATUITIES.] - -The government, in times of calamity and scarcity, grant small -gratuities to the distressed, but the amount is so trifling, the -difficulty of obtaining it so great, that it is not worth the time lost -in seeking for it. During the month of August, 1833, owing to heavy -gales, accompanied with much rain, the rivers overflowed their banks, -and these united calamities destroyed a vast number of the humble -dwellings of the poor. The government, knowing the great distress of -many thousands, sent surveyors to take a list of the sufferers. About -_five_ months afterward, the two magistrates who divide the city of -Canton between them, gave public notice, that the sums subscribed by -the _public_ for their relief, would be paid out in the following -proportions, viz.: "To the poor, who were unable to rebuild their -houses--two mace, five candareens," (about forty cents,) and if they -were _altogether destitute_, two months' food in addition, viz., for -every "big mouth," two mace and seven candareens: to every "little -mouth," (child's,) one half of that sum. The aged and feeble who are -unable to reach the distributing officer without several days' hard -struggle, are frequently obliged to give up the scanty pittance, and -depend upon the cold charities of the world, or otherwise find their -grave on the roadside in a loathsome ditch. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - DESCRIPTION Of CANTON--SACKING OF THE CITY--PLACE - OF HONOUR--MOURNING--COMPASS--MATERIALS FOR - BUILDINGS--HOUSES--PRINCIPAL OFFICES--DUTIES AND PENALTIES OF - GOVERNOR--FIRES--GOVERNOR'S SALARY--DIVISION OF POWER. - - -[Sidenote: DESCRIPTION OF CANTON.] - -The name of Canton on Chinese maps, is written Kwang-tung-sang-ching, -that is, the capital of the province of Kwang-tung, but when speaking -of the city, the natives call it san-ching, the "provincial city," -or the "capital of the province." It is built on the north bank of -Choo-keang or Pearl river, stands inland and is in a direct line, about -sixty miles from "the great sea." The scenery around the city, in the -adjacent country, is rich and diversified, but deficient in boldness or -grandeur. - -On the north and northeast of the city, the country is hilly and -mountainous. In every other direction a wide prospect opens to the view -of the beholder. The rivers and canals, which are very numerous, abound -with fish, and are covered with a great variety of boats, which are -continually passing to and from the neighbouring towns and villages. -Southward from the city, as far as the eye can see, the waters -cover a considerable portion, perhaps a third of the whole surface. -Rice-fields, and gardens, occupy the lowlands, which are diversified -with a few hills, rising here and there, to relieve the otherwise -unbroken aspect. The extent of the city, including all within and -without the walls, is not very great; though very populous, it derives -its chief importance from its extensive domestic and foreign trade. -Canton is one of the oldest cities in this part of the empire; since -the foundations were first laid, it has undergone numerous changes. - -It is not easy, perhaps impossible, to determine its original site and -name, or to ascertain the time in which it was first built. Although -either of the questions is unimportant to the reader, a brief account -of what the Chinese themselves narrate, respecting one of their -largest and most populous cities, may interest him. Their classics -speak of Canton being in existence four thousand years since; that it -was then called Nan-keaon, and Ming-too, "the splendid capital." It -first began to pay tribute to the emperors of China in the year B. C. -1123. The historians of the empire are only able to trace the origin -of Canton to the last emperors of the Chow dynasty, two thousand years -since; it was then surrounded by a stockade, composed of bamboo and -mud. We find it was but little visited by foreign vessels till the -year one thousand before Christ, when they held intercourse with eight -"barbarous" nations, from Teeu-chuh (India.) - -In the time of the western or Han dynasty, two hundred years previously -to the Christian era, persons came from Canton, Loo-whang-che and -other nations in the south. The nearest nation was about ten days' -_journey_ and the most remote, five months'; their territories were -large and populous and they possessed rare commodities. In the year -one hundred and seventy-six of Christ, vessels from India and Egypt, -or Arabia, "came with tribute;" from this time trade was carried on -with foreigners, at Canton. In the year seven hundred, an imperial -commissioner was first appointed to receive "fixed duties;" ninety-five -years subsequently, all foreign vessels (owing to gross extortion) -resorted to Cochin-China. After the fall of the Tang dynasty, A. -D. 906, five dynasties arose, reigned and fell, within a period of -fifty-three years. A tribute in gold, silver, ivory and other valuable -commodities, was sent to the successor of Tang, to the amount of five -millions of taels. In consequence of this acknowledgment, the emperor -created Lewyen, "King of Canton" or "King of the Southern sea." At -this period, the court of Canton was cruel in the extreme--criminals -were flayed, boiled and roasted, thrown on spikes, and forced to -fight with tigers and elephants. The city was freed from the monster, -(Lewyen,) by the founder of the Shang dynasty, in the year of the -Christian era, nine hundred and sixty-four; it subsequently became more -prosperous and beautiful; witches and wizards were prohibited; sorcery -was interdicted; the temples which had been built for the practice -of superstitious rites, were thrown down; the people were forbidden -to offer the sacrifice of human life, to demons; they were enjoined -to relieve the sufferers from noxious diseases which are prevalent; -dispensaries of medicine were established; useless and extravagant -articles of apparel were discountenanced, and pearls and ornaments for -head-dresses were disallowed. In the year one thousand and sixty seven, -a wall, about two English miles in circumference, enclosed the city -to protect it against the Cochin-Chinese. In the year twelve hundred, -"_foreigners resident_" received metals, silks, &c., and in return, -they gave rhinoceros's horns, elephant's teeth, coral, pearls, gems, -crystals, foreign cloth, pepper, red-wood, and drugs. In the year -fourteen hundred, one hundred and twenty houses were built for the -accommodation of foreigners.--In sixteen hundred and forty seven, the -present Tartar family came into power; Canton was summoned to submit -to its new master; on refusing, its walls were beaten down with great -cannon, and on the twenty-fourth of November, sixteen hundred and -fifty, it was taken:--for six days the inhabitants "were given to the -sword," the city was plundered--and upward of seven hundred thousand -persons were slain, during the siege, and six days' slaughter: "every -house was left desolate!" only one house remains standing which was -built before the sacking of the old city. That part of the city which -is walled in is nearly square, and divided by a partition-wall, running -from east to west; the northern, much the largest part, is called the -"old city;" the southern portion, more recently built, the "new city." - -The circuit of the wall does not exceed six miles: its southern part, -running east and west, is parallel with the river, from which it is -removed about fifteen or twenty rods: on this side are the "_Foreign -Factories_;" on the north, the city rests on the brow of the hill, and -is at its highest point about two hundred and fifty feet above the -surface of the river. The foundation and lower part of the wall, the -arches and the gates, are formed of coarse sandstone; its remaining -portion is built with soft brick. The walls are from twenty-five to -forty feet high, and from twenty to twenty-five feet thick; the north -side being the most substantial; on the east side the elements have -made great havoc: a line of battlements with embrasures surmounts -the walls, in the rear of which is a broad pathway. Two short walls, -designed to block up the narrow space between the main wall and the -ditches of the city, extend from its southeast and southwest corners; -through each of these there is a gate. - -The city has sixteen gates, of which twelve are outer, and four open -through the wall which separates the old from the new city; they are -all guarded by soldiers, closed at an early hour in the evening, and -opened at dawn of day. The streets and buildings in the suburbs are -similar to those in the city, the houses of which occupy the whole -space between the _wall and the river_ on its southern side; on its -eastern quarter they are much less extensive; and in its northern -division there are only a few solitary huts. The houses on the south -are generally built against the wall which they overlook. - -The suburbs are scarcely less extensive and populous than the city, -in which there are upward of six hundred streets, flagged with large -stones, chiefly of granite; they vary in width from two to sixteen -feet, the medium and most usual breadth being from six to eight. - -These narrow streets are usually thronged by a numerous motley group; -through many of them, the pedestrian in the rear is liable to tread -on the heels of the leader; the stout, half-naked, vociferating -porters, carrying every description of merchandise, and the nimble -sedan-bearers, make up, in noise and bustle, for the deficiency of -carts and carriages: these, together with the numerous travellers, -various kinds of retailers, pedlars, and beggars, present before the -spectator a scene of great animation and endless variety. Many of the -visiters and much of the merchandise are conveyed into the city by -means of canals or ditches, of which there are several; one of the -largest extends along the whole length of the wall on the east, and -another on the west side of the city, so that boats can pass through -and out by either canal. The eastern, western, and southern suburbs of -the city are also furnished with large canals, into which a number of -smaller tributaries flow: the Chinese term these ditches "the veins of -the city." Reservoirs are found here, but none of them are extensive: -much of the water is supplied from the river and canals; wells are not -unfrequent, and rainwater is used for making tea, &c.; fine wholesome -water is also furnished from numerous springs, which rise in the north -of the city, both within and without the walls. Several bridges (some -of which are of stone) are thrown over the canals. - -The Chinese of the present day have seldom ventured or desired to step -beyond the limits which circumscribed the efforts of their remote -ancestors; they have been equally slow and unwilling to adopt or -imitate the usages and improvements of distant foreigners, and glory -in this, their prominent characteristic: hence without much claim to -originality, they are exceedingly unlike the nations of the West. - -[Sidenote: PLACE OF HONOR.] - -In giving a description of this people, or any thing which appertains -to them, we must not therefore form our estimate by the criterion of -European taste or usage. With the Chinese the left, as the place of -honour, takes precedence of the right; white is the badge of mourning. -From the peculiar construction of their compass, called Chenan, chay, -"a chariot pointing towards the south," they do not number the cardinal -points in our order, but almost always mention the south before the -north; the west before the east; instead of saying north, they say, -west-north; west-south, &c. Without attempting to account for this -contrariety, it is obvious that the fact itself should be kept in mind, -while surveying the various works, occupations, institutions and habits -of the Chinese. - -It is generally supposed that the remote ancestors of this people, in -the migration eastward, dwelt in _tents_; their circumstances would -require such habitations; when they became stationary, their wants -would prompt them to seek a more substantial covering; but their -houses, pagodas, and temples, of the present day, bear evident proofs -that this early covering from the heat and storm, was the only model -which presented itself for imitation, in the erection of more secure -and permanent habitations. The roof, concave on its upper side; and the -veranda, with its slender columns, show most distinctly the original -features of the tent; the whole fabric of the ordinary buildings is -light and slender, retaining the outlines of its primeval simplicity. -They therefore, will seek in vain, who expect to find here stately -edifices, built after the Grecian or the Gothic model. - -Barrow, after having visited the imperial palaces, and travelled from -north to south, through the whole breadth of the empire, affirms, that -all the buildings of the Chinese are without elegance or convenience -of design, without any settled proportion; mean in their appearance, -and clumsy in their workmanship. Macartney was much better pleased -with their architecture; though it is totally unlike any other, and -irreconcilable to our rules, yet, in perfect consistence with its own, -it frequently produces a most pleasing effect. - -The buildings of Canton present as great a variety in structure and -style as can be found in the whole empire. - -A large part of the city and suburbs, is built on low ground or flats. -Special care is therefore required to secure a solid basis, for houses -and temples. - -Near the river, and in all the most loose and muddy situations, houses -are raised on wooden piles, which make the foundation as secure as -brick or stone, perhaps, even more so. In some cases the piles rise -above the surface of the ground, the buildings constructed of wood, -resting directly upon them: in other instances, the piles reach only -within a few feet of the surface, and the remaining part of the -foundation is made of mud, brick, or stone; when this is finished, the -walls are usually carried up and completed with the same material. Many -of the houses are nearly baseless, or have only a slender foundation -composed of mud, of which also the walls are composed; hence, in -severe rain, storms, and overflowings of the river, of which some have -recently taken place, many of the walls are thrown down. - -Bricks are in most general use for the walls of houses; three fifths of -those in the whole city are composed of them; the remaining part being -mostly constructed of mud; most of the Tartars in the old city are said -to inhabit dwellings of the latter kind. - -Stone and wood are rarely employed in erecting the walls of houses: -the first is frequently employed in making gate-ways and door-posts, -and the second for columns, beams, and rafters. Many of the floors in -houses and temples are formed of indurated mud; marble flags and tiles -are likewise used for roofs; they are laid in rows on the rafters, -alternately concave and convex, forming ridges and furrows, luted by a -cement of clay. - -Windows are small and rarely supplied with glass; paper, mica, shell, -or some other translucent substance, supplies its place; very little -iron is employed in building. - -The materials above named, for buildings, are procured here at moderate -prices and in great abundance. Wood, usually a species of the fir, is -floated down the rivers, and brought to the city in large rafts. Bricks -are made in the neighbourhood of Canton, brought hither in boats, and -sold at various prices, from three to eight shillings a thousand. -These bricks are of a leaden blue or of a pale brown colour; a few -being red; the variation of teint is produced by the different modes -of drying and burning them; the red bricks are those most thoroughly -burned; the leaden blue have received only a partial action of the -fire, the pale brown, the sun's action alone. - -Excellent stone for building is found in the hilly country on the north -of the province, and also in several of the islands, south of the city. -Granite and sandstone are those principally found and in great variety. - -Such is the general style and usual material of the buildings in -Canton. In passing through the city, the spectator is struck with the -great contrast between them, though this diversity does by no means -fully exhibit the relative condition and circumstances of the people: a -few only are rich, and the external appearance of their houses does not -exceed, in elegance, the dwellings of the middle class; many are very -poor--and the aspect of their abodes affords abundant evidence of their -abject state. - -[Sidenote: STATE OF THE POOR.] - -The poorest people are to be found in the extreme parts of the suburbs, -along the banks of the canals, and in the northern part of the old -city; their houses are mere mud-hovels; low, narrow, dark, unclean, -and without any division of apartments. A whole family, consisting of -six, eight, ten, and sometimes twice the number, is crowded into one -of these dreary abodes; yet we meet with individuals, enjoying health -and long life under these circumstances. To pass through the streets or -lanes of such a neighbourhood, is sufficient to reconcile a person to -any ordinary condition of life. - -Neither intelligence or industry could ever be confined in such -miserable cells. In habitations, a little more spacious and cleanly -than these, perhaps one third part of the people in Canton have their -abodes: these stand close on the street, and have usually but a single -entrance, which is closed by a bamboo screen, suspended from the top -of the door; within these houses, there are no superfluous apartments: -a single room is allotted to each branch of the family, while a third, -which completes the number within the whole enclosure, is used by all -the household as a common eating-room. - -[Sidenote: HOUSES.] - -Chinese houses usually open towards the south; but in these, as also in -the poorer kind, this favourite position is disregarded. Dwellings of -this description, are rented at four or five dollars a month. Another -class of houses, inhabited by a more wealthy but less numerous part of -the community, are the residences of those in easy circumstances, who -enjoy plenty without any of the accompaniments of luxury; these houses -together with the plot of ground on which they stand are surrounded by -a wall, twelve or fourteen feet high, that rises and fronts the street, -so as completely to conceal all the buildings from the traveller, as he -passes by. - -The prospect, in passing along the narrow streets which are lined with -these houses, is very cheerless. If allowed to enter some of these -dwellings more pleasing scenes will be presented. A stranger enters the -outer enclosure through a large folding door into an open court, thence -he is conducted by a servant to the visiters' hall; which is usually a -small apartment, furnished with chairs, sofas, tea-stands, &c.; here -the host presents himself to introduce his guest to the younger members -of the family. - -These halls are open on one side, the others being ornamented with -carved work, or hung with various scrolls presenting in large and -elegant characters, the moral maxims of their sages: or perhaps, -exhibiting rude landscapes, or paintings of birds and flowers. The -remaining portion of the enclosure is occupied with the domestic -apartments; a garden and, perhaps, a small school-room. - -The houses occupied by a few of the most opulent in Canton are by -no means inferior to the imperial palaces, excepting it be in the -space which they fill. The family residences of some among those -merchants, who are licensed by government to trade with foreigners, -furnish good specimens of this description of buildings. The seat of -the late Consequa, now half in ruins, was once superb; that of the -present senior hong-merchant, is on a scale of great magnificence; it -is a villa or rather palace, divided into suites of apartments, which -are highly and tastefully decorated. The dwellings occupied by the -government offices, and the numerous temples of the city, need not -be particularized in this place; suffice it to remark, that they are -usually more spacious than private houses, and that, at present, most -of them are in a very ordinary condition; very few of the houses or -temples in Canton, have more than one story, the halls of which are of -the whole height of the fabric, without any concealment of the beams or -rafters of the house. Terraces are often built above the roofs, and -when surrounded by a breastwork, afford in the cool of the day, a very -pleasant and secure retreat, to which the inmates can ascend, in order -to breathe a pure air, enjoy a wider prospect, or to witness any event -that transpires in the neighbourhood. These terraces are not perhaps -unlike the _flat-roofs_ of other orientals. In some other points there -is also a coincidence between the houses of the Chinese, and those -which are noticed in the sacred writings. - -Professor Jahn in his Biblical Archaeology, when referring to the -buildings described in the Scriptures, says: "The gates not only of -houses, but of cities, were customarily adorned with an inscription -which was to be extracted from the law of Moses; a practice in which -may be found the origin of the _modern_ Mezuzaw or piece of parchment -inscribed with sacred texts, and fastened to the door-posts. The gates -were always shut, and one of the servants acted the part of a porter: -the space immediately inside of the gate, called the porch, is square, -and on one side of it is erected a seat for the accommodation of -those strangers who are not to be admitted into the interior of the -house. From the porch we are introduced through a second door into -the court, which is commonly paved with marble, and surrounded on all -sides. Sometimes however only one side is enclosed, with a peristyle or -covered walk, over which, if the house has more than one story, there -is a gallery of the same dimensions, supported by columns and protected -by a balustrade. - -In the church, large companies are received at nuptials and feasts: on -such occasions, a large veil of thick cloth is extended by ropes over -the whole court, to exclude the sun's heat. The back part of the house, -called in Arabic, the harem, and in Hebrew, by way of eminence, _the -palace_, is allotted to the females. Behind the "harem," is a garden -into which the women can enjoy the pleasure of looking from their -apartments. In the smaller houses the females occupy the upper story; -the place assigned them also, by Homer in the "Iliad" and "Odyssey." - -In the buildings of the Chinese, the various inscriptions are seen -on the door-posts: the porter at the outer gate; the porch and court -within; the peristyle with its columns and perhaps a gallery above; -the palace, Kin-tee or "forbidden ground," with its garden, bears a -striking resemblance to those of the above description. The inner -apartments of the emperor are in like manner, by way of eminence, -called _Kung-teen_, or the "palace." - -[Sidenote: DUTIES OF GOVERNOR.] - -The government of Canton now claims our notice. Here, as in every other -place throughout the dominions of the Mantchow Chinese, all power -emanates from one man, honoured as the vicegerent of "High heaven;" -hence the present line of monarchs have not been satisfied with the -dignity of sovereigns but have laid claim to the character of sages. - -The sovereign of men, say they, "is heaven's son; nobles and statesmen -are the sovereign's children; the people are the children of nobles -and statesmen. The sovereign should serve heaven as a father, never -forgetting to cherish reverential thoughts, but exciting himself to -illustrate his virtues, and looking up to receive from heaven, the -vast patrimony which it confers; thus the emperors will daily increase -in felicity and glory. Nobles and ministers of state should serve -their sovereign as a father, never forgetting to cherish reverential -thoughts, not harbouring covetous and sordid desires, nor engaging in -wicked and clandestine thoughts, but faithfully and justly exerting -themselves; thus their noble rank will be preserved. The people should -never forget to cherish reverential thoughts towards the nobles and -ministers of state, to obey and keep the laws; to excite no secret or -open rebellion; then no great calamity will befall their persons." - -In accordance with these views, a spacious hall called _Wan-show-kung_ -is dedicated to the emperor, in every province of the empire, the walls -and appertenances of which are _yellow_, which is the imperial colour. -In Canton the _Wan-show-kung_ stands near the southeast corner of the -new city, within the walls. It is used solely for the honour of the -emperor and his family, and, annually, three days prior and subsequent -to the imperial birth days, all the civil and military officers of -the government, together with the principal inhabitants of the city, -assemble in it, and there pay him adoration. - -The same solemnities are required on these occasions as if the monarch -were present; no seats are allowed in the sacred place; every one -who repairs there, takes with him a cushion upon which he sits, -cross-legged, on the ground. So much is done for _absent_ majesty. - -Among the principal officers, who exercise authority in the -city of Canton is first, Tsung-tuh: this officer is styled -Leang-kwang-tsung-tuh, or the governor of the province of Kwang-tung -and Kwang-se. He is clothed with high authority, and in many cases -independent of all the other officers within the limits of his -jurisdiction; usually, however, he acts in concert and confers with -them who like himself, have been sent hither from the capital. He has -no power to originate or carry into execution any law or regulation, -without the sanction of the emperor, and is required to act according -to precedents and existing statutes. In certain cases pointed out by -law, he can, with the concurrence of foo-yuen, inflict immediate death. - -New regulations are frequently proposed to the emperor by the governor -and his council; when these have received the imperial sanction, -(which they generally do,) they have the force of law. The governor is -ex-officio, an honorary president of the supreme tribunal at Peking, -and occasionally, a member of the imperial cabinet. His commands are -most peremptory, and his authority can never be slighted or resisted -with impunity. The responsibilities of his office are great: he is -accountable to the emperor for the good management of all affairs in -the two provinces; the prosperity of the people and the fruitfulness -of the seasons are also items in the vast account which he must render -to his sovereign: he is required to make a faithful report of every -calamity which may come within the pale of his jurisdiction, whether -occasioned by fire, pestilence, earthquake, or famine, to the emperor -and the supreme tribunal, under penalty of being dismissed from office. -Any real or supposed deficiency in his capacity, subjects him to the -most severe punishment. The late governor of the province, Le, may be -adduced to prove this fact, who, during the last year for the "untoward -affair" of Leen-chow, was deprived of all rank and honours, chained, -imprisoned, condemned, and sent into banishment. - -In case of fire breaking out in the provincial city, and consuming more -than ten houses, the governor is fined nine months' pay; if more than -thirty houses are consumed, he forfeits one year's salary, if three -hundred are destroyed, he is degraded one degree. - -Fires occurring in the suburbs, do not subject him to the same -punishments. All the principal officers and a few of the most -respectable private citizens, frequently wait on his excellency. These -"calls" are visits of business or ceremony, according to circumstances, -and more or less frequent, as the disposition of the parties may -direct. On certain occasions, such as the arrival of a new governor, -all the civil and military officers of both provinces, are required to -send to him "an accurate and conspicuous account of themselves, their -term of service, and the condition of their respective districts." -"But whoever," said one of the late governors, "of the superior or -inferior officers, or the salt or hong merchants, or any other persons, -shall represent himself to be intimate with me and in my confidence, -or if persons shall write to each other to that effect, or shall -suffer themselves to be thus deceived; he or they shall be arrested -and brought to trial; and those who conceal such reports shall be -considered as equally guilty with those who give rise to them." - -All ultimate appeals in the two provinces, are made to the governor. -At the gate of his palace are placed six tablets, in which are written -appropriate inscriptions for those who wish to appeal to his authority; -the _first_ is for those who have been wronged by covetous, corrupt, or -sordid officers: the _second_, for those who have suffered by thieves -or robbers; the _third_ for such as have been falsely accused; the -_fourth_, for those who have been injured by swindlers and gamesters; -the _fifth_, for such as have suffered by wicked persons of any -description, and the _sixth_ is for those who wish to give information -concerning any secret schemes or machinations. - -On the _third_ and _eighth_, the _thirteenth_ and _eighteenth_, the -_twenty-third_ and _twenty-eighth_ days of each month, the people are -allowed to take these tablets in their hands, and to enter one of the -outer apartments of the palace, where they may, in person, present -their complaints to his excellency. This mode of proceeding is however -seldom adopted: to send or carry up a petition to his gate, is the most -common method of seeking redress from the hands of the governors. When -all these means fail, an appeal may be made to Peking. - -The mode of appeal by entering the gate of the magistrate, is allowed -also at the offices of foo-yuen, and an-cha-sze. - -The governor's house stands in the new city, near the yew-lan gate; it -is spacious and belongs to the government. The salary of this officer -is fifteen thousand taels, annually. It is generally believed that -his extra emoluments during the same period, amount to more than -twelve times that sum; although presents of every kind, to officers of -government, are disallowed. - -Loo-kwan, the present governor, is an aged man, and a native of one of -the northern provinces. He seems to belong to that class of persons -who are fond of ease and pleasure, very ambitious--but desirous that -all under their authority should know their places and perform their -respective duties. He has a large number of persons employed about him, -as advisers, secretaries, servants, &c. A small number of troops, who -serve as a body-guard, are also attached to him, and at the same time, -constitute a part of the city-police. - -Foo-yuen, the second officer, who is also called seun-foo, is usually -styled, by foreigners, "lieutenant-governor." His jurisdiction is -confined to this province, in which he is second in authority. The -title of _Choo_, the present foo-yuen, as it appears in the government -papers, runs thus: "An attendant officer of the military board; a -member of the court of universal examiners; an imperial censor; -patrolling soother of Canton; a guide of military affairs and a -controller of taxes." - -[Sidenote: DIVISION OF POWER.] - -Division of power, when it is to be intrusted to those who have been -selected from the people, is the policy of the Mantchow family. The -foo-yuen, though second to the governor, is not under his control; and -in certain cases, acts independently of him. - -They often confer together, and in matters in which they cannot agree, -refer for a decision to Peking. The foo-yuen holds the _wang-ming_, -"king's order," or death warrant, by virtue of which criminals, in -cases of great emergency, can be put to the sword without a reference -to the emperor. His residence is in the old city, in a palace built -in the reign of Shwn-che, by one of the Tartar generals, who was sent -hither to "pacify" the rebellious subjects of the South. Choo is a -native of Keeang-soo and a thorough-bred son of Han--stern, resolute, -and even obstinate--rather careless about emolument, a comtemner of -bribes--a terror to bandits, a hater of "divine vagabonds"--respected -by few, and feared by all. In his person, he is tall and well formed; -his looks show that he has "gone hither and thither," discharging the -functions of public life, without toil and anxiety. His origin is very -humble and he has grown old in the service of his country. He has one -son who is a source of grief to his parent; like the governor, he has -a small body of soldiers under his command, but the number of persons -kept in his immediate employ, is small. In his habits of living--we -have his own word for it--the patrolling soother of Canton is both -simple and an example to the people. - -Tseang-keun, the third officer, usually denominated the Tartar general, -is commander of the Tartar troops in Canton, and is answerable for -the defence of the city. In most cases he acts independently of the -tsung-tuh and foo-yuen. The soldiers under his immediate command, -except a small detachment stationed on the river, are quartered in the -old city, where the general keeps his court and camp. He is always, -we believe, a mantchow and not unfrequently a member of the imperial -family. - -Subordinate to the tseang-keun, there are two foo-too-tungs or -lieutenant-generals, and a great number of inferior officers, who rank -as majors, captains, lieutenants, &c. His house, which was built by -Tsing-nan-wang, is said to exhibit some of the finest specimens of -architecture that can be found in the provincial city. - -Hae-kwan-keen-tuh, the fourth officer, is known to foreigners and -often addressed by them as, "the grand hoppo of the port of Canton." -He is generally a member of the imperial household, and receives -his appointment direct from the emperor. His jurisdiction (he being -commissioner of customs) is limited to the maritime commerce of Canton. -We shall have occasion, subsequently, to speak of this department, when -the commerce of the city is referred to. - -Heo-yuen, the fifth officer, holds the highest literary appointment -in the province; he is usually spoken of, as "the literary chancellor -of Canton." His office is one of great influence and respectability, -inasmuch as literary rank, of which he is judge and dispenser, is -necessary for preferment to all civil offices in the state. He has -a general supervision of all public schools, colleges, and literary -examinations, within the province. On some occasions his authority -extends to the military department. - -The sixth officer, Poo-ching-sze, is the controller of the revenue -of the province; under the foo-yuen, he directs the appointment and -removal of all the subordinate officers of the local government. The -principal officers under him, are the king-leih or secretary, and a -koo-ta-sze or keeper of the treasury. - -Gan-cha-sze or an-cha-sze, the seventh officer, is criminal judge of -the province; all the criminal cases which occur within its limits, -are brought before him for trial. Sometimes he sits in judgment alone; -but in cases involving the life of the accused, he is usually assisted -by other chief officers of the province. A degree of civil power, at -times, appertains to him in conjunction with the poo-ching-sze. The -government posts are under his control;--among other officers attached -to this department, there is a sze-yo who has the general management of -the provincial prisoners; his rank and his duties are similar to those -of the keeper of a state-prison. - -Yen-yun-sze, the eighth officer, has the superintendence of the state -department: there are, under him, a yun-tung who attends to the -transportation of salt from one place to another, and several other -minor officers. - -The salt-trade is a government monopoly, the duties upon which form an -important branch of the imperial revenue. This trade is limited to a -small number of licensed merchants, who are generally very rich, and -are often called upon to make liberal grants towards the support of the -provincial government. - -The ninth officer, Tuh-leang-taou, has the control of all the public -granaries in the province; their superintendents are subject to his -direction and inspection. Canton and the suburbs contain fourteen -public granaries; these are required to be kept filled in order to -furnish supplies for the people, in times of scarcity. - -Kwang-chow-foo-chee-foo, or a magistrate of the department of -Kwang-chow-foo, is the tenth officer in Canton; his title is often -abridged, sometimes to Kwang-chow, at others, to Che-foo: Kwang-chow -is simply the name of the foo. Chee-foo means, literally, "known of -the department (or foo)," and denotes that it is the office or duty of -this magistrate to be fully acquainted with the portion of territory -over which he is placed. Either term is sufficient to denote, pretty -nearly, what is the authority of an officer placed at the head of all -the affairs of such a division of the province. There are numerous -civil officers placed in various parts of the department, all of whom -are under his immediate inspection. He has also under his authority -a sze-yo, whose duties, as superintendent of the prisoners of the -department, are similar to those of chief jailer in a county-prison. - -The eleventh principal officer in the province is -Nan-hae-heen-che-heen; this officer is subordinate to the che-foo, and -is to the district of Nan-hae what the che-foo is to the department of -Kwang-chow. As che-heen, he is required to know all the affairs of the -district. The department of Kwang-chow is divided into fourteen heens -or districts, of which Nan-hae and Pwan-yu are two of the principal, -and include the city of Canton. - -The last officer whom we shall particularize, is Pwan-yu-heen-che-heen; -the rank and duties of this magistrate are the same in the district -of Pwan-yu as are the last-named officers in the district of Nan-hae: -their titles, like that of the che-foo, are commonly abridged; thus, -when speaking of the Nan-hae magistrate, the people say, Nan-hae-heen; -and when it is not necessary to mention the district, they simply say -che-heen, designating by each of their phrases, the magistrate of the -district of Nan-hae. - -We have named and characterized as far as our limits will admit, and -the nature of the subject requires, the principal officers who exercise -authority in Canton; the reader will doubtless find it difficult, as -we have done, to determine the exact limitation of their respective -spheres, which, like the courses of the planets, often seem to -intersect each other. At first sight of so many bodies, all in motion -within limits so narrow, we feel surprised that they do not come -into collision, destroy each other and carry destruction through the -empire. On a close inspection, however, we are able to discover some -of the secret laws which govern this complicated system, preserve it -in being, and keep it in motion. Two influences, the one military, and -the other literary, are perhaps the principal forces which regulate and -control the measures of the Chinese government. Religion, which often -has a gigantic power over governments, is here blended with civil and -state ceremonies, and exerts but a feeble, and usually a most baneful -influence on the political destinies of the nation. - -All the officers enumerated in the foregoing list, excepting the -two che-heens, the che-foo, and the tseang-keun, are general -officers--their jurisdiction extending to all other parts of the -province, as well as over the metropolis. There are likewise two other -officers, commanders-in-chief of the land and naval forces, who, like -the other members of the provincial government, act alone in certain -cases, and sometimes in concert with the other general officers. The -government is despotic as well as military; and so constructed, that -those who form the provincial government, shall, while they enjoy a -degree of independence, serve as mutual checks; while at the same -time, each superior officer is held responsible for those who are -subordinate, and accountable for himself. Even in the location of -these officers, there has been a cautious reference to "division and -balance of power." For example: the tsung-tuh is stationed in the new -city, almost within a stone's-throw of his majesty's most faithful -"slave," the hoppo; the foo-yuen and the tsang-kuen are placed in -similar positions in reference to each other: these two last are so -located in the old city, that, should circumstances require, they -could act against the two first, in the new city. The same principle -is observable likewise, if we mistake not, in the disposition which -is made of the troops. The whole land and naval force throughout the -province, has been estimated (nominally) at about one hundred thousand -men; all of whom are with fixed limitations, under the control of the -governor; he has, however, the immediate and sole command of only five -thousand, and these are stationed at a distance from the city. On all -ordinary occasions, except when he goes to a distance from Canton, -he is escorted by a detachment from the kwang-chow-hee, (the chief -military officer of Kwang-chow,) which, in the absence of his own -troops, serves him for a body-guard, and constitutes, at the same time, -a part of the police of the city. The foo-yuen has only two thousand -at his command; while the tseang-keun has five thousand, which, in -an extreme case, would enable him to become master of the city. The -proper seat of the governor is at Shaou-king-foo, several miles west of -this city; but on account of the superior advantages of Canton, he is -allowed to reside here; he cannot, however, bring his troops hither, -lest, in conjunction with the foo-yuen, they should prove more than a -match for the Tartar general-commandant and his five thousand fighting -men. It should be remarked here, that no individual can hold an office -in any province, department, or district of the empire, that includes -the place of his nativity, or that extends within several hundred _le_ -of it. - -The whole number of soldiers, ordinarily quartered in the city, does -not probably exceed seven thousand. There are in the immediate vicinity -of Canton, a few small forts, and the city itself is intended to be a -stronghold; but neither is in such a state that they would serve any -very valuable purposes of defence. Even the late rain-storm carried -away one of the gates of the city, and opened a wide breach in the -walls. Most of the forts are dismantled and defenceless, and present -nothing more formidable than the frightful paintings of tiger's heads, -on the wooden lids which block up their port-holes. The two _follies_, -Dutch and French _follies_ as they are called, are situated in the -river opposite to the city, and are fair specimens of the forts about -Canton; there are likewise for the defence of the city, what have been -called cavalry, and artillery; but of these, we have heard little, and -seen nothing. Of the Tartar troops, there are two hundred chosen men, -who on state occasions, appear well clad and warlike; but, generally, -the soldiers are badly equipped, and poorly disciplined. All their -armour and accoutrements, consisting of shields and helmets, bows -and arrows, spears and javelins, short-swords and matlocks, seem ill -fitted either for defence or attack; the heavy losses sustained by the -troops of Canton, during the late highland war at Seen-chow, fully -confirm these remarks; as do also recent imperial edicts, in which the -soldiery are accused of idleness and lazy habits, and of "indulging -in all the softness of civilians;" the police of the city is on the -whole, vigilant and efficient. Besides those who act in the capacity of -constables, thief-takers, &c., constituting the regular police, there -are many neighbourhoods, as well as private individuals, which make -arrangements for a constant nocturnal watch during the night; almost -all the streets of the city are shut up by strong gates at each end; -near one of which there is usually a guard-house. The night-watches -are distinguished by bells, or some similar instruments kept by the -watchmen, in the winter months, when there is great danger from fire, -as well as thieves. Watch-towers are built on bamboo poles, high above -the roofs of the houses; thus constituting a double watch. When thieves -are discovered, or when a fire breaks out in any part of the city, the -alarm by means of the watchmen, spreads quickly from one extremity of -the city to the other. When riotous assemblies collect in the streets, -they are, in most cases, speedily dissolved by a vigorous application -of the bamboo or whip; many, doubtless, "shove by justice," and to -the day of their death go unpunished; yet the number who are arrested -and brought to trial, annually, is very great; justice is often -administered in the most summary manner; not unfrequently, in minor -cases, the man receives the punishment, and again goes free, the same -hour in which he commits the crime. - -[Sidenote: JUSTICE--JAILS.] - -The forms of trial are simple: there is no jury, no pleading; the -criminal kneels before the magistrate, who hears the witnesses and -passes sentence; he is then remanded to prison, or sent to the place of -execution. Seldom is he acquitted; when witnesses are wanting, he is -sometimes tortured until he gives evidence against himself. - -There are four jails in Canton; which together contain several hundred -prisoners; the jail is called te-yo, _hell_, or literally "earth's -prison." All capital offenders suffer just without the southern gates, -near the river; hundreds die there annually. When brought to the -fatal spot, they kneel with their faces towards the emperor's court, -and bending forward in the attitude of submission and thanksgiving, -suddenly expire beneath the bloody sword of the executioner. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - LITERARY INSTITUTIONS OF - CHINA--EXAMINATIONS--SCHOOLS--TEACHERS--SCHOOL-ROOM - CEREMONIES--COLLEGES--DOMESTIC COMMERCE--POPULATION OF THE - PROVINCES--IMPORTS--EXPORTS. - - -The _Literary Institutions_ of China, are the pillars that give -stability to the government. Her military forces are utterly inadequate -to hold together the numerous and extensive provinces and territories, -that constitute the wide dominions of the reigning dynasty. With great -difficulty the Tartar troops overrun the country; conquering province -after province, and gradually extending their authority over the -territories on the west of China Proper. But for a long period both the -discipline and the energies of the Chinese soldiery have been on the -wane: and at this moment the imperial hosts present nothing formidable -but their numerical amount; the recent insurrections at Leen-chow and -Formosa, have afforded the most complete evidence of this imbecility. -Not only in this part of the empire, but along the whole coast up to -the great wall on the north, and even beyond that in Mantchou Tartary, -both the land and naval forces have become so exceedingly enervated and -dissolute, that they exercise no salutary influence or control, except -over a few, who are equally debased with themselves. As police-men, -in the capacity of lictors, thief-takers, and executioners, they are -not less detested than feared by the common people; they are in fact, -for all purposes of defence, little better than _dead men_; were they -stricken from the catalogue of the living, we can scarcely doubt that -the stability of the empire would remain unimpaired. - -There are many who look with astonishment at the magnitude of this -empire, and believe it strong and immoveable as the everlasting hills. -But an examination of its history and present organization, would show -them that it has been frequently rent and broken by rebel chieftains, -ambitious statesmen, and haughty kings; and that its present greatness -is chiefly attributable to its peculiar literary institutions. These, -though they are the glory and strength of the nation, are, except for -mere purposes of government, amazingly deficient; and it is their -relative rather than intrinsic value, that renders them worthy of -special notice. Wealth and patronage have great influence here; they -often control the acts of government, stay the course of justice, cover -the guilty, and confer honours and emoluments on the undeserving. -But as a general rule, _learning_, while it is an indispensable -prerequisite for all those who aspire to places of trust and authority -in the state, is sure to command respect, influence, and distinction. - -Thus, without the dreadful alternative of overthrowing the powers that -be, a way is opened to ambitious youth, by which he may reach the -highest station in the empire; the throne only excepted. Usually the -most distinguished statesmen are those who have risen to eminence by -intellectual efforts: they are at once the philosophers, the teachers, -and rulers of the land. These distinctions they cannot however -maintain, without yielding implicit obedience to the will of the -monarch, which is most absolute and uncontrolled. Let them honour and -obey the power that is over them, and they stand; dependant indeed on -the one hand, but on the other, in proud and envied distinction. - -[Sidenote: LITERARY EXAMINATIONS.] - -High rank in the state is the brightest glory to which this people -aspire; with them, learning derives its chief value from the simple -fact, that it brings them within the reach of that dazzling prize. -Strict examinations, regulated by a fixed code of laws, have been -instituted and designed solely to elicit from the body of the community -the "_true talent_" of the people, with the ulterior intention of -applying it to purposes of government. At these examinations, which -are open to all except menial servants, lictors, players, and priests, -it is determined who shall rise to distinction and shed glory on their -ancestors and posterity--who shall live on in obscurity and die and be -forgotten. The competitors of the Olympic games never entered the arena -before the assembled thousands of their countrymen, with deeper emotion -than that which agitates the bosoms of those who contest the palm of -these literary combats. The days on which they are held, and their -results published in Canton, are the proudest which its inhabitants -ever witnessed. A brief notice of them may be interesting to the -reader, and at the same time enable him to understand more fully the -nature and object of the schools and colleges of the provincial city. - -The highest literary examinations in the empire are triennial, and take -place at Peking. Besides these, there are also occasional examinations -granted by special favour of the emperor. Up to these contests, the -most distinguished scholars go, from all the provinces. This privilege -is not gained without long, patient, and successful endeavour; the -examinations at which it is determined who shall enjoy it, occur also -triennially and are held in the metropolis of each province. These -examinations are of incomparable interest to great multitudes of the -people, in every department and district of the empire. High honours, -rich emoluments, and in a word, every thing that the young aspirant -and his numerous kindred most esteem, are at stake; a long season of -preparation has been endured, heavy expenses incurred; and now the -decisive hour approaches. - -Two examiners are chosen from distinguished officers at Peking, under -the immediate superintendance of the emperor; within five days after -they are chosen, they must leave the capital. They are allowed the use -of the post-horses belonging to government. Upon those who come to -Canton six hundred taels are conferred, to defray their expenses while -on the road; two hundred of which are paid when they commence their -journey from Peking, and the remainder by the governor of the province, -when they are about to return after the examination is completed. - -The above examiners are assisted by ten others, who are selected from -the local officers over whom the foo-yuen presides. Besides these there -are many inferior officers, who are employed as inspectors, guards, -&c. All these, together with the candidates, their attendants, &c., -amounting to ten thousand and upward, assemble at the Kung-yuen, a -large and spacious building designed solely for these occasions. It -contains numerous apartments, so that each candidate may be seated -separately from his competitors. All the seats are numbered. The -apartments are low and narrow, have only a single entrance, and no -furniture except a chair and a narrow writing-desk. - -The number of candidates who assemble in Canton is between seven and -eight thousand. They are often attended by their friends, and continue -here for several weeks, and sometimes for months; during which time the -hum and bustle of the city are greatly increased, and every kind of -mercantile business receives a new impulse. These candidates are always -persons of some distinction, which they must have gained, either at -previous examinations or by the payment of large sums of money. They -are all called _sew-tsae_, a title not unlike that of master of arts; -they are divided into several classes; those who have purchased their -degree are often despised by the others, and are generally regarded -with less respect than those who have gained it by their own merits. -They meet on equal terms, and their "true nobility" is to be determined -by personal efforts, which are to be made during a fixed period and -under fixed circumstances. The candidates assemble on the eighth moon; -but none are allowed to enter the examination except those who have -been previously enrolled by the literary chancellor of the province. -The age, features, place of residence, and lineage, of each candidate -must be given in the chancellor's list, and a copy of it lodged in the -office of the "foo-yuen." They must all attend at the examinations in -their native province; and those who give in a false account of their -family and lineage, or place of nativity, are expelled and degraded; -for no candidate can be admitted at any place without proving that his -family has been resident there for three generations. - -The examination continues for several days, and each student must -undergo a series of trials. The first is on the ninth of the moon, -the second on the twenty-second, and the third on the fifteenth. -The candidates are required to enter their apartments, on the day -preceding the examination, and are not allowed to leave them until the -day after it has closed. Thus they must pass two nights in close and -solitary confinement. On the first day of their examination, _three_ -themes, which are selected from the "_Four books_," are proposed to -them, and they are required to give the meaning and scope of each, -to which a fourth is added, on which they must compose a short _poem -in rhyme_. On the second day, a theme is given them from each of the -"_Five classics_;" and on the third day, five questions, which shall -refer to the history or political economy of the country. The themes -must be sententious, and have a meaning which is refined and profound. -They must not be such as have often been discussed. Those which are -given out for poetry, must be grave and important. In the themes for -essays on political economy, the chief topics must be concerning things -of real importance, the principles of which are clear and evidently -of a correct nature. "There is no occasion to search and inquire -into devious and unimportant subjects." All questions concerning the -character and learning of statesmen of the present dynasty, as well as -all topics which relate to its policy, must be carefully avoided. The -paper on which the themes and essays are written is prepared with great -care; and must be inspected at the office of the poo-ching-sze. It is -firm and thick, and the only kind that may be used. The price of it is -fixed by authority. The number of characters, both in the themes and -essays, is limited. The lines must be straight, and all the characters -full and fair. At the close of every paper, containing elegant -composition, verses, or answers to questions, it must be stated by the -students how many characters have been blotted out or altered; if the -number exceed one hundred, the writer is tsee-chuh, "pasted out;" which -means, that his name is pasted up at the gate of the hall, as having -violated the rules of the examination, and he is forthwith excluded -from that year's examination. - -There are usually a hundred or more persons at every examination in -Canton subject to this punishment, for breaking this, or some other -of the regulations. The candidates are not allowed "to get drunk" -and "behave disorderly" during the examination. All intercourse of -civility between the examiners and the relations of the students -must be discontinued; and there must be no interchange of letters, -food, &c. On entering the outer gate of the kung-yuen, each candidate -must write his name in a register, kept for that purpose; if it is -afterward discovered that the name was erroneously written, then the -officer superintending the register, if it be found that he is an -accomplice in registering a spurious essay, shall, with the candidate -for literary honours who has violated the law, be tried and punished. -Moreover, the student, on entering the hall of examination, must be -searched; and if it be discovered that he has with him any precomposed -essay, or miniature copy of the classics, he shall be punished by -wearing a wooden collar, degraded from the rank of sew-tsae, and for -ever incapacitated to stand as a candidate for literary honours; and -the father and tutor of the delinquent shall both be prosecuted and -punished. All the furniture and utensils, such as the writing-desks, -inkstands, &c., in the apartments where the students write their -essays, must be searched; and also, each and all of the managers, -copyists, attendant officers, servants, porters, &c. If, in any manner, -a learned person, who is to decide on the papers, be admitted to the -apartments of the students, dressed as a servant, he shall be punished; -and the chief examiner delivered over to a court of inquiry. A watch, -composed of military officers and soldiers, is maintained day and -night, both in the inner and outer courts of the hall; and if any of -these men are guilty of conveying papers to the candidates, concealed -with their food, or in any other way, they shall be punished. - -There are many other regulations and precautions which have been -adopted to prevent fraud, but a sufficient number have been stated to -show somewhat of the interest which gathers around these examinations, -and the schemes which are formed to gain distinction, without the toil -and fatigue of hard study. Of the thousands of candidates assembled at -these examinations in Canton, only seventy-one can obtain the degree -of Kew-jing; the names of the successful essayists are published by -a proclamation, which is issued on or before the tenth of the ninth -moon, and within twenty-five days subsequent to the closing of the -examination. This time is allowed to the examiners to read the essays, -and prepare their report. The proclamation, which contains the name -of the successful candidates, after it has received its appropriate -signatures, is pasted up at the office of the foo-yuen. - -At a given hour three guns are fired; and the foo-yuen at the same -time comes forth from his palace, accompanying the official paper; it -is forthwith pasted up, and again a salute of three guns is fired; -his excellency then advances, and bows three times towards the names -of the "promoted men," (hin-jir), and finally retires under another -salute of three guns. Ten thousand minds are now relieved from their -long suspense. Swift messengers are despatched by those who have -won the prize, to announce to their friends the happy result of the -long trial which they have undergone; while the _many_ return with -disappointment to their homes, the successful _few_ are loaded with -encomiums and congratulations, and their names with their essays sent -up to the emperor. To crown the whole, a banquet is prepared for these -newly-promoted men, of which the examiners and all the civil officers -of rank in the province partake. Gold and silver cups for the occasion -must be provided by the provincial treasurer. The chief examiner, -from Peking, presides; the foo-yuen, at whose palace the banquet is -given, and who is present as visiter, is seated on the right, and the -assistant-examiner on his left. The governor of the province is also -present, a train of inferior officers wait as servants, and two lads, -dressed like _naiads_, holding in their hands branches of olive, grace -the scene with a song from their ancient classics. - -There are three other examinations in Canton, which occur twice in -three years, and are attended by great numbers of aspirants. At the -first, which is attended by the students of Nan-hae and Pwanyu, the -che-heens preside; at the second, which is attended by candidates from -all the districts of Kwang-chow-foo, the che-foo presides; but the -third is conducted by the literary chancellor of the province, whose -prerogative it is to confer the degree of sew-tsae upon a limited -number of the most distinguished competitors. - -[Sidenote: LITERARY INSTITUTIONS.] - -These are preparatory to the triennial examination, and inferior to -it in interest; they need not, therefore, be further particularized. -It may be remarked, however, that they are open to persons of all -ages; and a case very recently occurred where a hoary head of eighty, -accompanied by a son and grandson, attended the examination; all of -them were candidates for the same literary honours. To qualify the -young for these examinations, and thereby prepare them for rank and -office in the state, is a leading object of the higher schools and -colleges among the Chinese. But a great majority of the schools in -Canton are designed only to prepare youth for the common duties of -private life. These latter, as well as many of the higher schools, -are _private_ establishments. And though there are teachers appointed -by government, in all the districts of the empire, yet there are no -public or charity-schools for the benefit of the great mass of the -community. Whatever may be his object and final distinction, almost -every scholar in Canton commences his course at some one of the private -schools. These, among the numerous inhabitants of this city, assume a -great variety of form and character, according to the peculiar fancy -of individuals. The opulent, who are desirous of pushing forward -their sons rapidly, provide for them able teachers, who shall devote -the whole time to the instruction of two, three, or four pupils. A -school of this description we have repeatedly visited; it is in a hall -belonging to merchants from Ning-po, and is kept by an old man, who has -three lads under his care; one five, another seven, and a third nine -years old: he instructs them in the learned dialects, and the youngest -has already made greater proficiency than is usually accomplished by -boys at the age of ten. Sometimes the inhabitants of a single street, -or a few families who are related to each other, unite, have a teacher, -and fit up a school-room, each defraying a stipulated part of the -expenses. At other times, the teacher publishes the rules and terms on -which he will conduct his school, and seeks for scholars wherever he -can find them. Children are not generally sent to school until they -are seven or eight years old; they enter, usually, for a whole year, -and must pay for that term whether they attend regularly or not. The -wages of the teachers vary greatly: in some instances (and they are not -unfrequent in the country) the lads pay only two or three dollars, but -generally fifteen or twenty per annum. When the teacher devotes his -whole time to two or three pupils, he often receives a hundred dollars -from each. - -The ordinary school-room, with all its defects, presents an interesting -scene. At the head of it there is a tablet, on which the name of the -sage--"_the teacher and pattern for myriads of ages_"--is written in -large capital letters; a small altar is placed before it, upon which -incense and candles are kept constantly burning. Every morning, when -the scholar enters the room, he bows first before the tablet, and -then to his teacher; the former is not merely a tribute of respect, -but an act of worship, which he is taught, nay, compelled, to pay to -Confucius. The boys usually continue in school from six o'clock in the -morning until six in the evening, except two or three hours, which they -are allowed for their meals. When in school, they all study aloud, -each raising his voice at the same time, and striving to outdo his -fellows, the noise of which is very great. Upon those who are idle or -disobedient, the teacher plies the _rattan_, with woful severity. Every -lesson must be committed perfectly to memory, and the lad who fails in -this, is obliged to bow down, and learn it upon his knees; those who -are the most incorrigible are made to kneel on gravel, small stones, -or something of the kind, in order to enhance their punishment. The -San-tse-king, the famous "three-character classics," is the first book -which is put into the hands of the learner. Though written expressly -for infant minds, it is scarcely better fitted for them than the -propositions of Euclid would be, were they thrown into rhyme. But, "it -is not to be understood" at first; and the tyro, when he can rehearse -it from beginning to end, takes up the Four books, and masters them in -the same manner. Thus far the young learners go, without understanding -aught, or but little, of what they recite; and here those who are not -destined to a literary course, after having learned to write a few -characters, must close their education. The others now commence the -commentary on the Four books, and commit it to memory in the same -way; and then pass on to the other classics. The study of arithmetic, -geography, history, &c., forms no part of a "common-school" education. - -The high schools and colleges are numerous, but none of them are -richly endowed, or well fitted for the purposes of education. The high -schools, which are _fourteen_ in number, are somewhat similar to the -private grammar-schools in England and America; with this difference, -that the former are nearly destitute of pupils. There are _thirty_ -colleges; most of which were founded many centuries since. Several of -them are now deserted, and falling to ruins. Three of the largest have -about two hundred students each, and, like all the others, only one or -two professors. We have sought long and diligently, but thus far in -vain, for some definite information concerning the existing discipline -and regulations of these colleges; should we affirm that they are -without rules and order, we should say what we do not doubt, but -cannot prove. All those systems of instruction which have sprung up in -modern times, and are now accomplishing so much for the nations of the -West, are here entirely unknown. There are a few books in the Chinese -language which contain excellent maxims on the subject of education, -give numerous rules to facilitate the acquisition of knowledge, and -detail systems of gymnastic exercises for the preservation of health. - -Of the whole population of Canton, not more than one half are able -to read. Perhaps not one boy out of ten is left entirely destitute -of instruction, yet, of the other sex, not one in ten ever learns to -read or write. There is scarcely a school for girls in the whole city. -Public sentiment--immemorial usage--and many passages in the classics, -are against female education; the consequence is, that females are -left uninstructed, and sink far below that point in the scale of -being, for which they are fitted, and which they ought ever to hold. -The degradation into which the fairest half of the human species is -here thrown, affords cause for loud complaint against the wisdom and -philosophy of the sages and legislators of the celestial empire. We do -not knowingly detract from the merits of the Chinese; in comparison -with other Asiatics, they are a learned and polished race. Those who -have been educated are generally remarkably fond of books: and though -there are no public libraries in Canton, yet the establishments for -manufacturing and vending books are numerous. To supply those who are -unable to purchase for themselves the works they need, a great number -of circulating libraries are kept constantly in motion. - -While the purest moral maxims are found mixed up at times, in the -Chinese language, as in ours, with gross licentiousness, the charge -does not lie against works comprising the library of the youthful -students, which, in this particular, is wholly unexceptionable. - -The situation of Canton and the policy of the Chinese government, -together with various other causes, have made it the scene of a very -extensive _domestic_ and _foreign_ commerce. With the exception of -the Russian caravans which traverse the northern frontiers of China, -and the Portuguese and Spanish ships which visit Macao, the whole -trade between the Chinese empire and the nations of the West centres -at this place. Here the productions of every part of China are found, -and a very brisk and lucrative commerce is carried on by merchants -and factors from all the provinces. Merchandise is brought here from -Tonquin, (Tung-king) Cochin-China, Camboja, Siam, Malaca, or the Malay -peninsula, the eastern Archipelago, the ports of India, the nations -of Europe, the different states of North and South America, and the -islands of the Pacific. We shall briefly notice the several branches of -this extensive commerce, enumerate some of the principal commodities -which are brought to this city, as well as those which are carried from -it, and add such remarks concerning the situation and circumstances of -the trade, and those who conduct it, as seem necessary to exhibit its -full magnitude and importance. - -[Sidenote: DOMESTIC COMMERCE.] - -Concerning the _domestic_ commerce, we can do little more than mention -the articles which are here bought and sold for the several provinces; -each of which we shall notice separately, that we may, by taking a -view of their position and number of inhabitants at the same time, see -to what advantage the present trade is conducted, and the probability -of its future increase or diminution. The maritime provinces claim -priority of notice, after which, those on the northern, western, and -southern frontiers will pass under review, and finally, those in the -centre of China proper. The colonial trade is, in the present view, -omitted. - -From _Fuh-keen_, come the black teas, camphor, sugar, indigo, tobacco, -paper, lacquered ware, excellent grass-cloth, and a few mineral -productions. Woollen and cotton cloths of various kinds, wines, -watches, &c., are sent to that province; which, with its population of -fourteen millions, might, in different circumstances, receive a far -greater amount of foreign manufactures and productions in exchange -for its own. The trade of the province is carried on under great -disadvantages. It has been shown by an accurate and detailed comparison -between the expense of conveying black teas from the country where they -are produced, to Canton, and of their conveyance from thence to the -port of Fuh-chow in Fuh-keen, that the privilege of admission to the -latter port would be attended with a saving to the East India Company -of £150,000 annually, in the purchase of black teas alone. - -_Che-keang_ sends to Canton the best of silks and paper; also, -fans, pencils, wines, dates, "golden-flowered" hams, and -"_lung-tsingcha_"--an excellent and very costly tea. This province -has a population of twenty-six millions, and makes large demands for -foreign imports; these, however, by way of Canton, go to that province -at no small expense to the consumer. - -_Keang-nan_, which is now divided into the two provinces of Keang-soo -and Gan-hwuy, with a population of _seventy-two_ millions, has the -resources as well as the wants of a kingdom. Notwithstanding its -distance from Canton, large quantities of produce are annually sent -hither, and exchanged for the productions and manufactures of the -western world. Green teas and silks are the principal articles of -traffic, which are brought to Canton; and they usually yield the -merchant a great profit. - -From _Shan-tung_, fruits, vegetables, drugs, wines, and skins, are -brought down the coast to Canton; and coarse fabrics for clothing are -sent back in return. The carrying of foreign exports from Canton to -Shan-tung, whether over land or up the coast in native vessels, makes -them so expensive as to preclude their use among the great majority -of the inhabitants, who are poor and numerous. The population of -_Shan-tung_ is twenty-eight millions. From Chih-le, ginseng, raisins, -dates, skins, deer's flesh, wines, drugs, and tobacco, are sent hither; -and sundry other foreign imports go back in return. The population, -amounting to twenty-seven millions, is in a great degree, dependant on -the productions of other provinces and countries for the necessaries of -life. - -_Shan-se_ sends skins, wines, ardent spirits, and musk. Among its -fourteen millions of inhabitants, there are many capitalists who come -to Canton to increase their property by loaning money. Various kinds of -cloths, European skins, watches, and native books, are sent up to the -province of Shan-se. - -_Shen-se_ also supports a large money trade in Canton, sends hither -brass, iron, precious stones, and drugs; and takes back woollen and -cotton cloths, books and wines. The population is about ten millions. - -_Kean-suh_ sends to Canton gold, quicksilver, musk, tobacco, &c., and -receives in return, for its fifteen millions of inhabitants, a small -amount of European goods. - -_Sze-chuen_ sends gold, brass, iron, tin, musk and a great variety -of other drugs; and receives in exchange, European cloths, lacquered -ware, looking-glasses, &c. Sze-chuen is the largest of the eighteen -provinces, and has a population of twenty-one millions. - -_Yun-nan_ yields, for the shops of Canton, brass, tin, precious stones, -musk, betel-nut, birds, and peacock's feathers; and receives silks, -woollen and cotton cloths, various kinds of provisions, tobacco and -books in return. The population is five millions. - -_Kuang-we_ has a population of seven millions, and furnishes the -provincial city with large quantities of rice, cassia, iron, lead, -fans, and wood of various kinds; and takes in return many native -productions, and most of the articles that come to Canton from beyond -sea. - -From _Kwei-chow_, one of the central provinces, are brought gold, -quicksilver, iron, lead, tobacco, incense, and drugs; a few articles, -chiefly foreign goods, find their way back to that province. Its -population is five millions. - -From the two provinces, _Hoo-nan_ and _Hoo-pih_, come large quantities -of rhubarb; also musk, tobacco, honey, hemp, and a great variety of -singing-birds; the number of inhabitants is five millions. They make -very considerable demands on the merchants of Canton, both for native -productions and foreign imports. - -_Keang se_ sends to this market, coarse cloths, hemp, china-ware, and -drugs; and receives in return woollens and native books. The population -is twenty-three millions. _Ho-nan_ has an equal number of inhabitants, -and sends hither rhubarb, musk, almonds, honey, indigo, &c.; woollens, -and a few other foreign goods are received in return. - -[Sidenote: OPIUM.] - -This account of the domestic commerce of Canton, is taken from native -manuscript. We have sought long, but in vain, for some official -document which would show at once, the different kinds, and the amount -of merchandise, which are annually brought from, and carried to, the -several provinces of the empire. The account which has been given must -be regarded only as an approximation to the truth. Some articles, -doubtless, have been omitted, which ought to have been noticed, and -vice versa; one commodity in particular, opium, known to be carried -into all the provinces, and used to the amount of more than fifteen -millions annually, is not even mentioned. Still, the statement which -we have brought into view, shows that there is, in every part of the -empire, a greater or less demand for foreign productions; a demand -which, so long as the commerce is confined to this port, will be -supplied very disadvantageously, both for the foreigner and the native; -but while it does remain thus restricted, there is reason to suppose -that it will, under all its disadvantages, gradually increase; and even -if the northern ports of the empire should be immediately thrown open, -it will not soon cease to be important. - -Though the merchants and factors from the other provinces enjoy a -considerable share of the commerce of Canton, yet they do not confine -themselves to the domestic trade; they participate largely in that -to Tung-king, Cochin-China, Siam, and the islands of the eastern -Archipelago. The whole number of Chinese vessels, annually visiting -foreign ports south of Canton, is not probably less than one hundred; -of these, one third belong to Canton; six or eight go to Tung-king; -eighteen or twenty to Cochin-China, Camboja, and Siam; four or five -visit the ports of Singapore, Java, Sumatra, and Penang; and as many -more find their way to the Celebes, Borneo, and the Philippine islands. -These vessels make only one voyage in the year, and always move with -the monsoon. Many of the vessels, from Fuh-keen and the northern ports -of China, which go south, touch at Canton, both when outward and -homeward bound. But the whole amount of trade to foreign ports, carried -on by the Chinese merchants of Canton, is not very great; this is not -the case with that which is in the hands of foreigners, which we shall -notice in the following chapter. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - EARLY COMMERCE OF CHINA--AMERICAN - TRADE--HONG-MERCHANTS--TRANSLATORS--LINGUISTS--FOREIGN - FACTORIES--STYLE OF LIVING--MANUFACTORIES AND - TRADE--PHYSICIANS--EGG-BOATS--MANUFACTURERS--MECHANICS--POPULATION - OF CANTON. - - -Portugal, Spain, France, Holland, Sweden, Denmark, Russia, England, and -the United States, share in the commerce of Canton. - -The Portuguese ships led the way to China in the year 1576, but, -difficulties occurring, they were restricted to Macao, to which place -they have ever since been limited, excepting at short intervals, when -they have been allowed to visit other ports. - -The Chinese annals say, that in 1550, the Portuguese borrowed -Haon-king-gaon, (Macao,) which is situated in the midst of dashing -waves, where immense fish rise up, and again plunge into the deep! -the clouds hover over it, and the prospect is really beautiful--that -they (the Portuguese) passed over the ocean, myriads of miles, in a -wonderful manner; and small and great ranged themselves under the -renovating influence imparted by the glorious sun of the celestial -empire. - -Spanish vessels enjoy greater privileges than those of any other -nation: they trade at Macao, a privilege denied to all other -foreigners, excepting the Portuguese; at Canton, and at Amoy. - -The Falanke (French) reached Canton, in 1520; they entered the Tiger's -mouth (the Bogue) abruptly, but were driven away, because the loud -report of their guns frightened the inhabitants. Their trade has never -been very extensive, though it has continued to the present time. -During the few past years, they have employed annually, two, three, -or four ships in this trade. In the seasons 1832-33, there were three -French ships in port. - -The Ho-lan-kwo-jin (Dutch) arrived at China, in the year 1601: they -inhabited, in ancient times, a wild territory, and arrived at Macao -in two or three large ships. Their clothes and hair were red, they -had tall bodies, and blue, deeply sunken eyes, their feet were one -cubit and two tenths long, and they frightened the people with their -strange appearance; notwithstanding tribute was brought by them, they -had, in commencing trade, to struggle with many difficulties; and -their commerce, during two centuries, has fluctuated exceedingly. Its -present prospects are improving. A few years since, they had only -three or four ships, annually employed in this trade. During the year -1832, seventeen, from Holland and Java, arrived in China. The value -of _imports_, was four hundred and fifty-seven thousand, one hundred -and twenty-eight dollars. The _exports_ amounted to six hundred and -fifty-six thousand, six hundred and forty-five dollars, exclusive of -the private trade of the commanders. - -_Sweden_ has never, we believe, in one season, sent more than two -or three ships to China. The trade opened in 1732: during the first -fifteen subsequent years, twenty-two ships were despatched to China, of -which four were lost. - -Peter Osbeck, who was here in 1750-51, as chaplain of the Prince -Charles, a Swedish East Indiaman, relates, that there were at that -season, eighteen European ships in port: one Danish, two Swedish, two -French, four Dutch, and nine English. For the last fifteen years, no -Swedish ships have visited China. - -The _Danes_ preceded the Swedes in their visits to China, but we could -not ascertain the date of the year in which their trade began. During -twelve years, commencing in 1732, they sent thirty-two ships to China, -twenty-seven of which only returned. Their flag was called Hwang-ke, -"the imperial flag," which name it has retained to this day. Their -trade has never been extensive, though it has continued to the present -time. - -The _Russian_ trading vessels are excluded from the Chinese ports; -their trade being confined to the northern provinces, by land. - -The _English_ did not reach the coast of China, till about 1635. The -whole number of arrivals, during the year 1832, was eighty-seven; ten -of this number performed two or three voyages from China. Of the whole -number, nine were from London, and sixty-two from ports in India. The -vessels brought to China, broadcloths, long-ells, camlets, British -calicoes, worsted and cotton yarn, cotton piece goods, Bombay, Madras -and Bengal cotton, opium, sandal-wood, black-wood, rattans, betel-nut, -putchuck, pepper, cloves, saltpetre, cochineal, olibanum skins, ivory, -amber, pearls, cornelians, watches and clocks, lead, iron, tin, -quicksilver, shark's fins, fishmaws, stock-fish, &c. In return, they -were laden with teas, silk, sugar, silk piece goods, cassia, camphor, -vermilion, rhubarb, alum, musk and various other articles. The value of -these exports and imports is as follows:-- - -In 1828-29, imports, twenty-one millions, three hundred and thirteen -thousand, five hundred and twenty-six dollars; exports, nineteen -millions, three and sixty thousand, six hundred and twenty-five -dollars: in 1829-30, imports, twenty-two millions, nine hundred and -thirty-one thousand, three hundred and seventy-two dollars; exports, -twenty-one millions, two hundred and fifty-seven thousand, two hundred -and fifty-seven dollars: in 1830-31, imports, twenty-one millions, -nine hundred sixty-one thousand, seven hundred and fifty-four dollars; -exports, twenty millions, four hundred and forty-six thousand, six -hundred and ninety-nine dollars: in 1831-32, imports, twenty millions, -five hundred and thirty-six thousand, two hundred and twenty-seven -dollars; exports, seventeen millions, seven hundred and sixty-seven -thousand, four hundred and eighty-six dollars: in 1832-33, imports, -twenty-two millions, three hundred and four thousand, seven hundred -and fifty-three dollars; exports, eighteen millions, three hundred and -thirty-two thousand, seven hundred and sixty dollars. - -[Sidenote: AMERICAN TRADE.] - -The _American_ trade to China, is of very recent origin; it commenced -after the revolutionary war. The first recorded facts which we are able -to obtain, carry back the trade only to the season of 1784-5, in which -two American ships were sent, laden, to Canton. In their return-cargo, -they carried eight hundred and eighty thousand, one hundred pounds of -tea: in the following season, but one vessel was sent, which exported -six hundred and ninety-five thousand pounds: in 1786-7, there were -five American ships, engaged in the trade: they exported one million, -one hundred and eighty-one thousand, eight hundred and sixty pounds of -this plant. One of these ships, was the "Hope:" other ships, which were -in port during this, and the following season, were the "Washington," -"Asia," and "Canton;" the last two, from Philadelphia. - -The number of American vessels, which arrived in China, during the -seasons of 1832-33, ending in June, 1833, was fifty-nine. Some of these -ships did not, however, take in cargoes at this port. - -These vessels brought quicksilver, lead, iron, South American copper, -spelter, tin plates, Turkey opium, ginseng, rice, broadcloths, -camlets, chintzes, long ells, long cloths, cambrics, domestics, -velvets, bombazettes, handkerchiefs, linen, cotton drillings, yarn and -prints, land and sea otter-skins, fox-skins, seal-skins, pearl-shells, -sandal-wood, cochineal, musical-boxes, clocks, watches, and sundry -other articles. - -In return, they were laden with teas, silks, cassia, camphor, rhubarb, -vermilion, china-ware, &c. These articles were carried to the United -States, Europe, South America, Sandwich islands, and Manila. The -following statement will afford some idea of the progress in that -trade, and show its present amount:-- - -In 1805-6, imports, five millions, three hundred and twenty-six -thousand, three hundred and fifty-eight dollars; exports, five -millions, one hundred and twenty-seven thousand dollars: in 1815-16, -imports, two millions, five hundred and twenty-seven thousand, five -hundred dollars; exports, four millions, two hundred and twenty -thousand dollars: in 1825-26, imports, three millions, eight hundred -and forty-three thousand, seven hundred and seventeen dollars; -exports, four millions, three hundred and sixty-three thousand, seven -hundred and eighty-eight dollars: in 1830-31, imports, four millions, -two-hundred and twenty-three thousand, four hundred and seventy-six -dollars; exports, four millions, three hundred and forty-four thousand, -five hundred and forty-eight dollars: in 1831-32, imports, five -millions, five hundred and thirty-one thousand, eight hundred and -six dollars; exports, five millions, nine hundred and ninety-nine -thousand, seven hundred and thirty-one dollars: in 1832-33, imports, -eight millions, three hundred and sixty-two thousand, nine hundred and -seventy-one dollars; exports, eight millions, three hundred and seventy -two thousand, one hundred and seventy-five dollars. - -[Sidenote: COMMERCE.] - -It appears, from the foregoing statements, that the China trade, -employing, annually, one hundred and forty first-rate vessels, and a -large amount of capital, constitutes a very important branch of modern -commerce: this trade has always been carried on, and still exists, -under circumstances peculiar to itself: it is secured by no commercial -treaties, regulated by no stipulated rules: mandates, and edicts not -a few, there are on "record," but these all emanate from one party; -still, the trade lives, and, by that imperial favour which extends to -"the four seas," flourishes and enjoys no small degree of protection. - -All vessels arriving on the coast of China, are, unless destined for -the harbour of Macao, or the port of Canton, considered by the Chinese -authorities, as intruders, and as such, must instantly depart. Year -after year, however, vessels have found a safe and convenient anchorage -at Lintin and its vicinity, where a large amount of business, including -nearly the whole of the opium-trade, is transacted. - -Those vessels that are to enter the Bogue, must procure a permit, and -a pilot, at the Chinese custom-house, near Macao: the pilots, having -received license to act, must proceed on board immediately, and conduct -the vessel to the anchorage, at Whampoa. - -As soon as the ship is officially reported at Canton, arrangements are -made for discharging and receiving cargo, the whole business of which -is sometimes accomplished in three weeks, but usually, it extends to -two or three months. Before this business can proceed, the consignee, -or the owner of the ship, must obtain for her a _security merchant_, a -_linguist_, and a comprador; and a declaration must be given, except by -those of the East India Company, that she has no opium on board. The -security merchant, or individual who gives security to government for -the payment of her duties, and for the conduct of the crew, must be a -member of the _co-hong_; this company is composed at present, of twelve -individuals, usually called _hong-merchants_: some of these men rank -among the most wealthy and respectable inhabitants of Canton: they pay -largely for the privilege of entering the co-hong: when they have once -joined that body, they are seldom allowed to retire from the station, -and, at all times, are liable to heavy exactions, from the provincial -government. Formerly, the whole, or nearly the whole foreign trade, -was in their hands: within a few years, it has extended to others who -are not included in the co-hong; and who are commonly called _outside -merchants_. - -The linguists, so called, hold the rank of interpreters: they procure -permits for delivering and taking in cargo; transact all business at -the custom-house, keep account of the duties, &c. - -The comprador provides stores, and all the necessary provisions for the -ship, while she remains in port. - -The _port-charges_ consist of measurement-duty, cumshaw, pilotage, -linguist and comprador's fees. The measurement-duty varies: on a vessel -of three hundred tons, it is about six hundred and fifty dollars, -and on a vessel of about thirteen hundred tons, it is about three -thousand dollars: the tonnage, however, affords no fixed criterion for -the amount of measurement-duty. But, for all ships, the _cumshaw_, -_pilotage_, _linguist_ and comprador's fees, are the same, amounting to -two thousand, five hundred and seventy-three dollars. - -Those vessels that enter the port, _laden only with rice_, are not -required to pay the measurement-duty and cumshaw, but they are liable -to other irregular fees, amounting to nearly one thousand dollars. - -The management and general supervision of the port-charges, are -intrusted to an imperial commissioner, who is sent hither from the -court of Peking. In Chinese, he is called hae-kwan-keen-tuh, but, by -foreigners, he is usually styled the hoppo: his regular salary is about -three thousand taels per annum, but his annual income is supposed to be -no less than one hundred thousand dollars. - -The arrangements between the native and foreign merchants of Canton for -the transaction of business are, on the whole, convenient and pretty -well calculated to promote despatch, and to secure confidence in the -respective parties. - -The Chinese merchants have a well-earned reputation as shrewd dealers: -they have little confidence in each other; every contract of importance -must be "fixed," and made sure by the payment of a stipulated sum: but -they place the most unlimited confidence in the integrity of their -foreign customers. - -Among the _outside_ merchants the trade is very limited, and their -number being unlimited, there is often much competition between them. -The whole of the East India company's business, a large portion of the -English private trade, and that of other foreigners, are confined to -the hong-merchants and those who transact business in connexion with -them. - -The establishments of the principal hong-merchants are extensive; they -have numerous and convenient ware-houses in which they store goods, and -from whence export-cargoes are conveyed, in lighters, to the shipping -at Whampoa. - -The names of the hong-merchants are Howqua, Mowqua, Puankhequa, Goqua, -Fatqua, Kingqua, Sunshing, Mingqua, Saoqua, and Punhoqua. The Rev. -Robert Morrison, D. D., is Chinese translator to the British East India -company, and Mr. G. R. Morrison, his son, to those termed the _outside -British merchants_. The four linguists are named, Atom, Achow, Atung, -and Akang. - -[Sidenote: FOREIGN FACTORIES.] - -The _foreign factories_, the situation of which has already been -noticed, are neat and commodious buildings: the plot of ground on which -they stand is circumscribed by narrow limits, extending about sixty -rods from east to west, and forty rods from north to south: it is -owned, in common with most of the factories, by the hong-merchants. - -The factories are called shih-san-hang, "the thirteen factories;" -with the exception of two or three narrow streets, they form a solid -block; each factory extends in length, through the whole breadth of the -block, and has its own proper name which, if not always appropriate, -is intended to be indicative of good fortune: the first, commencing -on the east, is e-ho-hang, the factory of "justice and peace;" it -communicates with the city ditch: the second is the Dutch; it is -called paon-ho-hong, "the factory that ensures tranquillity:" Hog-lane -separates this from the fourth, which is called fung-tae-hang, "the -great and affluent or chow-chow factory;" it derives the latter name -from its mixture of inhabitants, viz.:--Parsees, Moormen, &c.: the -fifth, being the old English factory, is named bung-shan-hong: the -sixth, the Swedish factory, is called suy-hang: the seventh, commonly -called the imperial factory, ma-ying-hang: the eighth, paon-shun-hang, -or "the precious and prosperous factory:" the ninth, the American -factory, is termed kwang-yuen-hang, "the factory of wide fountains." -A broad street, called China-street, separates kwang-yuen-hang from -the tenth factory, which is occupied by one of the hong merchants: the -eleventh is the French factory: the twelfth, the Spanish factory: the -thirteenth, and last, is the Danish factory. The twelfth and thirteenth -are separated by a street occupied by Chinese merchants, generally -called New China-street. - -Each factory is divided into three, four, or more houses, of which -each factor occupies one or more, according to circumstances. Brick or -granite is the material used in the erection of these buildings, which -are two stories high, and present a moderately substantial front. They -form, with the foreign flags which wave above them, a pleasing contrast -to the national banner and architecture of the celestial empire. - -Besides the British East India company's establishment, there are -nine British merchants and agents, seven American, one French, and -one Dutch. Between Canton, Macao, and on board the stationary ships -at Linting, there are distributed one hundred and forty residents, -exclusive of twenty-five belonging to the East India company's -establishment, viz.: Sixty-three British, thirty-one Asiatic British -subjects, twenty Americans, eleven Portuguese, three Dutch, four -Danish, three Swedish, three Spanish, one French, and one Genoese. - -Messrs. Markwick and Lane keep a European bazar, and the British hotel -is kept by C. Markwick in the imperial hong; the European ware-house -and hotel is kept by Robert Edwards, in the American hong. - -Two newspapers are printed in the English language, the "Canton -Register," and the "Chinese Courier;" the first, half-monthly, and the -second, weekly, accompanied by price-currents. There is also, printed -in English, a very useful and praiseworthy work, called the "Chinese -Repository," to which I am indebted for a considerable portion of the -information relative to Canton, its commerce, &c. - -The difficulty, which formerly existed in visiting and communicating -with Macao, Linting, and Cap-shuy-moon, is now happily removed by the -establishment of two excellent cutters, under British colours, which -have very convenient accommodations. Chinese boats also may be had -in abundance, either for the outer ship channel to or from Linting, -Cap-shuy-moon, or Macao, or the _inner_ passage to and from Macao, and -which foreign boats are not allowed to use. - -The style of living in China (we refer to foreign society) is similar -to that of India, except that here man is deprived of that "help" -appointed to him by a divine decree, which no human authority can -justly abrogate, and enjoyed by him in every land save this. - -A gentleman, fitting up an establishment in Canton, must first obtain -a _comprador_; this is an individual permitted, by special license, -to act as head-servant; to him belong the general superintendance -of domestic household affairs, the procuring of other servants, -purchasing provisions, &c., according to the wishes of his employer. -Visiters to Canton usually speak in high terms of the domestic -arrangements of the residents. - -This place presents few objects of much interest to the mere man of -pleasure. Considering the latitude, the climate is agreeable and -healthy; provisions of good quality and great variety are abundant; but -the want of a purer air, and wider range, than are enjoyed in the midst -of the densely populated metropolis, to which the residents are here -confined, often makes them impatient to leave the provincial city. - -[Sidenote: MANUFACTORIES.] - -The _manufactories_ and trades of Canton are numerous: there is no -machinery, properly so called, consequently there are no extensive -manufacturing establishments similar to those which, in modern times, -and under the power of machinery, have grown up in Europe. The Chinese -know nothing of the economy of time. Much of the manufacturing business -required to supply the commercial houses of Canton, is performed at -Fuh-shan, a large town situated a few miles westward of the city; -still, the number of hands employed, and the amount of labour performed -here, are by no means inconsiderable. - -There are annually about seventeen thousand persons, men, women, and -children, engaged in weaving silk; their looms are simple, and their -work is generally executed with neatness. The number of persons engaged -in manufacturing cloth of all kinds, is about fifty thousand; when the -demand is pressing for work, the number of labourers is considerably -increased; the workmen occupy about two thousand, five hundred shops, -averaging, usually, twenty in each. - -We have heard it said, that some of the Chinese females, who devote -their time to embroidering the choicest of the fabrics, secure a profit -of twenty and sometimes even twenty-five dollars per month. Shoemakers -are numerous and support an extensive trade, the number of workmen -being about four thousand, two hundred. The number of those who work -in brass, wood, iron, stone, and various other materials, is likewise -large. Those who engage in each of these occupations form, to a certain -degree, a separate community, having their distinct laws and rules for -the regulation of business. - -The book-trade of Canton is important, but we have not been able to -obtain particulars in relation to its extent. The _barbers_ form a -separate department, and no one is allowed to perform the duties of -tonsor until he has obtained a license. - -According to their records, the number of this fraternity in Canton, at -the present time, is seven thousand, three hundred! - -There is another body of men, which we know not how to designate or -describe; the _medical community_; which must not be passed over -without notice. That these men command high respect and esteem whenever -they show themselves skilled in their profession, there can be no -doubt; it is generally admitted, also, that individuals do now and -then, by long experience and observation, become able practitioners; -but, as a community, they are anything rather than masters of the -"healing art." About two thousand of these "physicians" dwell in Canton. - -No inconsiderable part of the multitude which composes the population -of Canton lives in boats. There are officers appointed by government -to regulate and control this portion of the city's inhabitants. Every -boat, of all the various sizes and descriptions that are seen here, is -registered; and it appears that the whole number on the river, adjacent -to the city, is eighty-four thousand. A great majority of these are -tankea (egg-house) boats, called by some, sampans; these are generally -not more than twelve or fifteen feet long, about six broad, and so low -that a person can scarcely stand up in them: their covering, made of -bamboo, is very light, and can be easily adjusted to the state of the -weather. Whole families live in these boats, and in coops lashed on the -outside of them they often rear large broods of ducks and chickens, -designed to supply the city-markets. Passage-boats which daily move to -and from the city-hamlets, ferry-boats which are constantly crossing -and recrossing the river, huge canal-boats, laden with produce from -the country, cruisers, pleasure-boats, &c. complete the list of these -floating habitations, and present to the stranger a very interesting -scene. - -[Sidenote: POPULATION.] - -There has been considerable diversity of opinion in relation to the -population of Canton. The division of the city which brings a part of -it into Nan-hae, and a part into Pwang-yu, precludes the possibility of -ascertaining the exact amount of population. The facts which we have -brought into view in the preceding pages, perhaps will afford the best -data for making an accurate estimate of the number of inhabitants -in the city. There are, we have already seen, fifty thousand persons -engaged in the manufacture of cloth, seven thousand, three hundred -barbers, and four thousand, two hundred shoemakers; but these three -occupations employing sixty-one thousand, five hundred individuals, do -not, probably, include more than one fourth of the craftsmen in the -city; allowing this to be the fact, the whole number of mechanics will -amount to two hundred and forty-six thousand; these, we suppose, are a -fourth part of the whole population, exclusive of those who live on the -rivers. In each of the eighty-four thousand boats, there are not less, -on an average, than three individuals; making a total of two hundred -and forty-two thousand; if to them we add two hundred and forty-six -thousand, (which is the number of mechanics,) the amount will be one -million, two hundred and thirty-six thousand, as the probable number of -inhabitants in Canton. - -This number may possibly be incorrect; no one, however, who has had an -opportunity of passing through the streets of the city, and viewing the -multitudes that throng them, will think the estimate below one million. - -It only remains to remark, briefly, in conclusion, the influence which -Canton is exerting on the character and destinies of this empire. -Intelligent natives admit that more luxury, dissipation, and crime, -exist here, than in any other portion of the empire; they maintain, -at the same time, that more enterprise, enlarged views, and general -information, prevail among the higher class of the inhabitants of -Canton, than are found in most of the other large cities; the bad -qualities are the result of a thrifty commerce acting on a large -population, in the absence of high moral principles; the good, which -exist in a very limited degree, result from an intercourse with -"distant barbarians." - -The contempt and hatred which the Chinese have often exhibited towards -foreigners, and the indifference and disdain with which the nation -has looked down upon every thing not its own, ought to be thoroughly -reprobated; on the other hand, the feelings which foreigners have -cherished, and the disposition and conduct which they have too -frequently manifested towards this people, are such as never should -have existed. Notwithstanding all these disadvantages, we think the -intercourse between the Chinese and the people of the western world, -beneficial to the former; and hitherto this intercourse has been -purely commercial; science, literature, and all friendly and social -offices, have been disregarded. We trust fervently, that such a -period has departed, that men are beginning to feel they have moral -obligations to discharge, and that they are bound by the most sacred -ties to interest themselves in the intellectual, moral, and religious -improvement of their various brethren in the distant nations of the -earth. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -WEIGHTS AND MEASURES--MONEY WEIGHTS--COMMERCIAL -WEIGHTS--OPIUM--OPIUM-SMOKERS--MANTCHOU DYNASTY. - - -Among the _exports_ and _imports to_ and _from China_, are certain -articles, which are not generally known to merchants not engaged in -commerce to the eastward of the cape of Good Hope, among which are:-- - -_Agar-agar_: this article is a species of seaweed, imported from New -Holland, New Guinea, &c. It makes a valuable paste, and is extensively -used in the manufacture of silks and paper. It is also used as a -sweetmeat. There are several species of _fucus_ imported, which are -eaten both in a crude state, and cooked, by the lower classes. - -_Amomum_: these seeds have a strong pungent taste, and a penetrating -aromatic smell; they are used to season sweet dishes. - -_Anise-seed stars_ are so called from the manner in which they grow; -they are used also, to season sweet dishes, have an aromatic taste, and -from them is extracted a volatile oil. - -_Capoor cretchery_ is the root of a plant: it has a pungent and -bitterish taste, and a slightly aromatic smell. It is exported to -Bombay, and is used for medical purposes, and to preserve clothes. - -_Coral_ is valuable according to the colour, density, and size of the -fragments: when made into buttons, it is used among the Chinese as an -insignia of office. - -_Cutch_ or _Terra Japonica_ is a gummy resin, and is imported from -Bombay and Bengal. - -_Gambier_ is similar to cutch, although the produce of two different -plants: it is chewed with areca-nut, and is used also in China, for -tanning; but it renders the leather porous and rotten. - -_Galengal_ is used principally in cookery; it has a hot, acrid, peppery -taste, and an aromatic smell. - -The Chinese weigh all articles which are bought and sold, that are -weighable; as _money_, _wood_, _vegetables_, _liquids_, &c. This -renders their dealings more simple than those of other nations, -who buy and sell commodities, with more reference to the articles -themselves. Their divisions of weights and measures are into _money_ -and _commercial_ weights, and _long_, and _land_ measures, &c. - -The circulating medium between foreigners and Chinese, is broken -Spanish dollars, the value of which is usually computed by their -weight. Dollars bearing the stamp of Ferdinand, have usually borne a -premium of one, to one and a half per cent., while those of Carolus -have risen as high as seven or eight per cent., but are subject to a -considerable variation, according to the season, and _different times_ -of the season. Those coins bearing the stamp of the letter G, are not -received by the Chinese, except at a discount. Mexican and United -States' dollars, do not pass among the Chinese, but are taken _at -par_, by foreigners: every individual coin has the mark of the person, -through whose hands it passes, stamped upon it. - -As the number of these marks soon becomes very numerous, the coin -is quickly broken in pieces; and, this process of stamping being -continually repeated, the fragments gradually become very small, and -are paid away entirely by weight. The highest weight used in reckoning -money, is _tael_, (leang,) which is divided into _mace_, (tseen,) -_candareens_, (fun,) and _cash_, (le.) The relative value of these -terms, both among the Chinese, and in foreign money, can be seen by the -following table. It should be observed here, that these terms, _taels_, -_mace_, _candareens_, _cash_, _peculs_, and _catties_, _covids_, -_punts_, &c., are not Chinese words, and are never used by the Chinese -among themselves; and, the reason of their employment by foreigners, -instead of the legitimate terms, is difficult to conjecture. - - Ounce Grains - Tael. Mace. Candareens. Cash. troy. troy. Sterling. Dollars. - - 1 10 100 1000 1,208 579.84 6s. 8d. 1,389 _a_ 1,398 - 1 10 100 57.984 8d. 138 _a_ 0,139 - 1 5.7984 8d. - -The value here given for the tael, in sterling money and dollars, is -not the exact value: and it is difficult to ascertain, owing to the -ignorance of the Chinese, of such money among other nations. The value -given to the tael in the sterling money, is that which is found on -the books of the East India company: that given to the dollar, is the -extremes of its value. - -[Sidenote: COIN.] - -The only coin of the Chinese, is called _cash_, (or _le_,) which is -made of six parts of copper, and four of lead. The coins are thin and -circular, and nearly an inch in diameter, having a square hole in the -centre, for the convenience of tying them together, with a raised edge, -both around the outside, and the hole. Those now in use, have the -name of the emperor stamped upon them, in whose reign they were cast. -Notwithstanding their little value, they are much adulterated with -spelter; yet, on account of their convenience in paying small sums, and -for common use, they generally bear a premium, and but eight hundred -and fifty can commonly be obtained for a tael. The use of silver coin, -however, appears to be increasing among the Chinese, as by recent -accounts, we learn that silver dollars have been made in Fuh-keen and -other places, contrary to the laws of the empire. - -Bullion is rated by its fineness, which is expressed by dividing the -weight into a hundred parts, called touches. If gold is said to be -ninety-four or ninety-eight touches, it is known to have one or two -parts of alloy; the remainder is pure silver metal; is estimated in the -same manner; and without alloy or nearly so, is called sycee, which -bears a premium according to its purity; the most pure sycees are equal -in fineness to the _plata-pina_ of Peru, which is now principally -imported by vessels of the United States, engaged in commerce to -the Spanish ports on the Pacific. It is cast into ingots, (by the -Chinese, called shoes, from their shape,) stamped with the mark of the -office that issued them, and the date of their emission. It is used -to pay government taxes and duties, and the salaries of officers. The -ingots weigh from one half, to one hundred taels, and bear a value -accordingly. _Sycee_ silver is the only approach among the Chinese to -a silver currency; gold ingots are made, weighing ten taels each, and -are worth between twenty two and twenty-three dollars; but neither -gold ingots, nor doubloons, nor any other gold coin, are used as money -among the Chinese. Great caution should be used in purchasing ingots or -bars of silver, as they are subject to many adulterations, and are not -unfrequently cast hollow, and filled with lead, to complete the weight. -In fact, every species of fraud is practised by the dealers in bullion. - -The only weights in use among the Chinese, besides those of money, are -the _pecul_, (tan,) _catty_, (kin,) and _tael_, (leang.) The proportion -these bear to each other, and to English weights, is exhibited in the -following table:-- - - Pecul. Catties. Taels. Lbs. avoir. Cat. Lbs. troy. - 1 100 1600 133½ 1.0.21-1/3 162.0.8.1 - 1 16 1-1/3 - -Usage has established a difference between the tael of commercial -weights, which, at the rate of one hundred and thirty-three and a third -pounds to the pecul, weighs five hundred and eighty-three and a half -troy grains, and the tael of money weight, of which the old standard -is 579.84 grains troy. By the above table, it appears, that one ton -is equal to sixteen peculs, and eighty catties; one hundred weight -to eighty-four catties; one pound, avoirdupois to three fourths of -a catty, or twelve taels. The Portuguese at Macao, have a pecul for -weighing cotton, and valuable articles; a second for coarse goods; and -again, a different one for rice. But the Chinese, among themselves, -know no difference, either in the weight of a pecul for different -articles, or in the tael, whether used for money or goods. - -The principal measures in use among the Chinese, are three; namely, -long measure, land measure, and dry measure. - -The principal measure of length, is the _covid_, (chih,) which is -divided into ten _punts_, (tsun.) The _covid_ varies considerably, -according as it is used for measuring cloths, distances, or vessels. -That determined upon by the mathematical tribunal, is 13.125 English -inches; that used by tradesmen, at Canton, is about 14.625 inches; the -one by which distances are usually rated, is nearly 12.1 inches, and -that employed by engineers, for public works, 12.7 inches. The _le_ -or mile, is also an uncertain measure, varying more than the covid -or foot. Its common measure is three hundred, sixteen, and a quarter -fathoms, or one thousand, eight hundred, ninety-seven and a half -English feet; it is the usual term, in which length is estimated. The -Chinese reckon one hundred, ninety-two and a half _le_, for a degree -of latitude and longitude; but the Jesuits divided the degree into two -hundred and fifty _le_, each _le_ being one thousand eight hundred -and twenty-six English feet, or the tenth part of a French league, -which is the established measure at present. A _le_, according to this -measurement, is a little more than one third of an English mile. - -_Land measure_ has also varied considerably, but is at present -established by authority. By this rule, one thousand, two hundred -covids make an acre or _more_, which contains about six thousand, six -hundred square feet. - -Rice, or paddy, is the only article measured in vessels the dimensions -of which have been fixed by law or usage; but as even rice and paddy -are usually weighed when sold in large quantities, the vessels for -measuring these commodities are but little used. - -To perform these calculations, the Chinese have an arithmetical board, -or abacus, called _swan-pan_, or "_counting-board_," on which, by -constant practice, they will perform calculations in numbers with -surprising facility. It consists of an oblong frame of wood, having a -bar running lengthwise about two thirds of its width from one side. -Through this bar, at right angles, are inserted a number of parallel -wires, having moveable balls on them, five on one side, and two on the -other. The principle on which computations are made, is this; that -any ball in the larger compartment, being placed against the bar and -called unity, decreases or increases by tenths, hundredths, &c.; and -the corresponding balls in the smaller divisions, by fifths, fiftieths, -&c.: if one in the smaller compartment is placed against the middle -bar, the opposite unit or integer, which may be any one of the digits, -is multiplied by five. - -[Sidenote: OPIUM.] - -Having heretofore cursorily alluded to the vast sum annually expended -in the importation of opium, I now proceed to give a more particular -statement concerning the trade, the number of smokers, &c., &c. -The opium-trade, which scarcely attracted the notice of merchants -previously to the year 1816, has now swollen into great importance, by -the rapid and extensive sale of one of the most destructive narcotics -which the world ever knew, and which is used in China as a pernicious -indulgence, by smoking. The government has passed the most rigorous -laws to prevent its importation and use, but as the officers of the -revenue boats, from Linting and Cap-shuy-moon to Canton, are bribed, -and receive a stipulated fee on every chest of opium, and every other -article illegally imported, smuggling is no longer fraught with any -material risk, and has at length assumed the appearance of a regular -branch of commerce. Once in two or three years, the Chinese admiral is -ordered to proceed to the smuggling depots at the island of Linting, -(alias Ling-ting) the "Solitary Vail," or the "Destitute Orphan," or -to Cap-sin-moon, alias, Cap-shuy-moon, or the "Swift water passage," -and exterminate the "foreign barbarians." He goes down in formidable -array, with an immense number of flags flying; and the sound proceeding -from an endless number of great gongs and other noisy instruments, -is heard, with a favourable wind, long before his fleet "heaves in -sight;" the smugglers are previously informed of his coming, (for -public notice is given many weeks, perhaps months, before he arrives;) -the imperial fleet is then hove to, at a safe distance, far beyond the -reach of cannon-shot, from three to five miles; the gongs are then -beaten with the utmost fury, the trumpets blown, and the thousands -of warriors shout and bellow with loud vociferations, to frighten -away the monsters, and a cannon-shot or two is fired, perhaps; the -"_barbarians_" then get under way very leisurely with a topsail or two -bent, and proceed towards the Ladrone, or Rogues islands, called by the -Chinese "Low man-shan," or the "old ten thousand hills;" this satisfies -the commander, who returns back, and sounds far and wide, his valorous -deeds in _alms_, (arms,) (for he is one of the beggars who asks a -douceur.) Forthwith a courier is despatched to the imperial court, -announcing, that the Fankwai, or "Foreign white devils" are blown into -"ten thousand atoms," and that their carcasses have been given to the -fish, and to birds of prey. As soon as the Chinese fleet "about ship" -to return, which is done immediately if possible, down drop the anchors -of the "Fankwai," the sails are unbent, the smuggling boats are laden -again as usual; and thus ends this ridiculous farce. - -To show the destructive tendency of this trade in every point of view, -to the Chinese empire, a statement is herewith presented, setting forth -the alarming increase of the imports from 1817, to 1833: - -In the season ending in 1817, three thousand, two hundred and ten -chests of Patna, Benares, and Malva opium, containing one hundred -and five catties, or one hundred and forty pounds each chest, were -imported, which sold for the sum of three millions, six hundred and -fifty-seven thousand dollars: in the season ending in 1833, fifteen -thousand six hundred and sixty-two chests from India were imported, -which sold for thirteen millions, seven hundred and fifty-seven -thousand, two hundred and ninety dollars; the whole value of the known -importations during the time named, being seventeen years only, was -the enormous sum of one hundred and fifty millions, one hundred and -thirty four thousand, six hundred and sixty-eight dollars: the number -of smokers, allowing three candareens of 17.40 grains troy, per day -to each, had increased from about one hundred thousand, to about one -million, four hundred and seventy-five thousand, seven hundred and -twenty-six. If to the quantity already stated, there is added the -importation of Turkey opium, of which we have no regular account, as -well as the quantity smuggled by Chinese junks from Singapore, &c., -all of which may be fairly estimated at one third more; the number of -chests imported in the year 1833, would be about twenty-one thousand, -which probably sold for the sum of twenty millions of dollars: the -number of smokers may be estimated at nearly two millions. The crude -opium undergoes a very expensive process by boiling, or seething and -straining, not less than twice, before it is fit for use; it is then -made into small pills, or put into the pipe, in a semi-fluid state, -and taken off, at _two_ or _three whiffs_, the smoke being vented very -slowly through the nostrils, the recipient lying at the same time in a -recumbent posture. Although the Chinese are well aware of its baneful -effects, and that it is yearly draining the country of the value of -many millions of dollars, yet they say, "it is a Josh Pigeon," (meaning -that God hath so decreed it,) and they cannot prevent it. A chest of -opium, which cost eight hundred dollars, is said to quadruple in price, -when prepared for use. - -Opium is vended as openly as teas, by the foreign merchants; the -quantity disposed of, and on hand, and the average price, are printed -and published monthly, and are in the possession of every dealer; -and the chits, or orders given on the commanders of the ships, are -generally sold like scrip, to a great number of persons on speculation, -before the delivery is finally completed. - -[Sidenote: OPIUM-SMOKERS.] - -The tremendous and horrible effects upon the personal appearance of -its votaries, may be seen daily, about the suburbs of Canton, and of -all the pitiable objects the eye ever saw, a confirmed opium-smoker is -apparently the most degraded and worthless. When he has once passed the -Rubicon, reformation seems to be impossible, the sting of death which -is sin, has seized upon him, his feet are already within the precincts -of the grave, and he has sunk like Lucifer, "never to rise again." -When the effect has subsided, an emaciated, nerveless wretch is seen, -with a cadaverous skin, eyeballs wildly protruding from their sockets, -the step faltering, the voice weak and feeble, and the countenance -idiotic; but when an opium-smoker lies under the baneful influence of -the narcotic, the images which flit before his diseased imagination, -are exquisite, brilliant, heavenly: it is the Nepenthé, prepared by the -hands of the fair Helen, which so exhilarated the spirits of all who -had the happiness to partake of it, that all care was banished for the -time being, from their benighted recollections. - -[Sidenote: MANTCHOU DYNASTY.] - -The Mantchou historians have endeavoured to conceal their very modern -rise as a kingdom, by veiling their origin in fables, and deducing -their descent from a divinity; through these fables, however, it is not -difficult to ascertain with a considerable degree of accuracy, their -real descent. Their nation is evidently formed by the union of several -Toungouse tribes, occupying the country, to the north of Corea, and on -the banks of the river Amour. These tribes had by their former unions -rendered themselves formidable to their neighbours; and in the time of -the Sung dynasty, from A.D. 960 to 1278, had, under the Chinese name -of the Kin, or golden dynasty, answering to the Mantchou name Aisin, -subdued several northern districts of China. Their farther progress -was interrupted by the Mongols, under Agodai Khan, grandson of Genghis -Khan, who, in the thirteenth century, destroyed both the Sung dynasty, -and its enemies, and founded the Yuen dynasty. The kingdom of Kin, or -Aisin, being thus destroyed, its tribes returned to their original -country, where they continued more or less independent of each other, -and of their Mongol conquerors. Among the chiefs of their tribes, -was one Aisin Keolo, or Gioro, whom the Mantchous make the son of a -divine virgin, who became pregnant of him by eating a fruit, brought -to her in the bill of a magpie. This Aisin Gioro, at first, ruled over -three tribes; but subsequently, others submitted to him, and he became -king of a nation, to which he gave the name of Mantchou, or Manchow, -which signifies "the full or well-peopled country." At this point, -the thread of Mantchou history is broken, and even names disappear -for three or four generations; nor is the history resumed, till the -close of the sixteenth century, when the chief, who then governed the -Mantchous, incensed at the murder of his father, and grandfather, by -a tribe which had revolted from them, and become confederate with -the Chinese dynasty of Ming, began to wage war against the latter. -After thirty-three years, he had gained such power, and ruled over so -many tribes, as well Mantchou as Mongol, that in the year 1616, he -took the title of emperor, and adopted "Teenming, Heaven's decree," -as his Kwo-haou or title. Previous to this event, in the year 1599, -he appointed persons to form an alphabet for the use of his people, -for, up to that period, the Mantchous possessed no written language. -The alphabet which they adopted, was derived from, and improved upon -the Ouigour and Mongol alphabets, the Mongol being a modification of -the Ouigour, a derivative of the Syriac. During the rest of his reign, -which continued eleven years longer, Teenming was at constant war with -the Chinese, and dying, left the throne to his eighth son, who first -adopted the title of Teentsung, which he retained for nine years, and -then that of Tsungtih, which continued till his death in 1643; though -not of so warlike a disposition as his father, he continued the war -during the whole of his reign; owing to the dissensions which prevailed -among the Chinese princes of the Ming dynasty, and the numerous -revolts, which took place throughout the empire, he was enabled with -little trouble, to take possession of Peking, the capital, and to found -a new dynasty in China. - -This monarch died while yet on the field of victory, leaving the throne -to his ninth son, a child of six years old, to whom was given, the -title of Kwohaou of Shunche. The young monarch was, immediately after -his father's death, carried into the city of Peking, and proclaimed -emperor, amid the acclamations of the people. His reign, and the -commencement of the Mantchou or Ya-tsing dynasty, dated from the year -1644. - -When about fourteen years of age, one of the regents dying, and some -dispute arising, as to who should take his place, Shunche laid aside -his minority, and assumed all the functions of imperial power. He made -few alterations in the old system of government, being fully occupied -in strengthening the dominion, which had been obtained for him; for -many Chinese princes still possessed parts of the empire, and assumed -the imperial title. - -The last of these named Yungleih, was not slain, till the closing year -of Shunche's reign, nor did his death put an end to all fears, for -Chingchingkung, known to Europeans, under the name of Koxinga, still -hovered about the coast, with a large fleet. - -At Shunche's death, in the year 1661, his third son succeeded to the -throne, at the age of eight years, a regency of four chief ministers -being appointed to govern during his minority. The new monarch's -Kwo-haou was Kanghe. - -Soon after Kanghe's accession, the regency compelled all the -inhabitants of the maritime districts throughout China to retire thirty -Chinese miles from the east; by which means the power of Koxinga was -much weakened; but at the same time a great number of families were -reduced to want. In the 12th year of his reign, 1673, there was a -general revolt of the Chinese princes, who were yet living, but from -their dissensions and petty jealousies among themselves, they were -unable to effect any thing. It was not, however, till 1681, that they -were finally subdued. In the following year, 1682, the western part of -Formosa was wrested from the grandson of Koxinga, and has since that -time remained in the hands of the Chinese. - -The conquest of China being firmly established, Kanghe was now able -to turn his attention to his own country, which he visited, attended -by his whole court and an army of sixty thousand men. He also sent -ambassadors to the frontiers, to settle with the Russians the limits of -the two empires--nor did he confine himself to the possessions already -obtained, but under pretence of assisting the Mongols, many of whom had -become tributary to the Mantchou monarchs, previously to the conquest -of China, he extended his possessions northeastward, into the country -of the Soungarians, whom, as well as some of the tribes of Turkestan -and of Thibet, he entirely subdued. - -After a long and glorious reign of sixty-one years, Kanghe died in -1722, in the sixty-ninth year of his age, leaving the succession to -his fourth son; but his fourteenth son taking advantage of his elder -brother's absence from the capital, seized on the billet of succession, -and having changed the number four to fourteen, assumed the throne and -the Kwo-haou of Yung-ching. - -Yung-ching's reign is chiefly remarkable for his persecution of the -Roman Catholic missionaries, most of whom were sent out of the country. -He showed neither the literary nor the military talents displayed by -his father, Kanghe, and by his son and successor Keentung; but he was -attentive to the business of the government, and to the people. In the -fourth year of his reign, the treaty of peace, now existing between -the Russian and Chinese empires, was ratified. By this instrument, the -Russians, among other privileges, are permitted to have an academy -and church, with an archimandrite, three inferior priests, and six -scholars, at Pekin. The time fixed for their stay there is ten years. -Yung-ching reigned thirteen years, and died in the year 1735, leaving -the succession to his fourth son who took the Kwohaou or title of -Keentung. - -Keentung's reign produced many literary works, or rather compilations; -it is remarkable for some brilliant conquests in Eastern Tartary or -Turkestan and Thibet. The Soungarians having revolted, he entirely -annihilated them as a nation, and peopled their country with the -inhabitants of more peaceful districts and with Chinese. - -On the south of Soungaria he extended his boundary beyond Cashgar, -and rendered several of the neighbouring tribes tributary. In the -fifty-eighth year of his reign, 1793-94, the first British embassy to -China under Lord Macartney, reached Peking. The war in Thibet being -brought to a happy conclusion about the same period, is supposed to -have had a bad effect on the interests of that embassy. Two years -afterward, Keentung, after a reign of sixty years, placed one of -his sons on the throne, with the Kwohaou of Keaking, and shortly -after died. Keaking ascended the throne in the thirty-sixth year of -his age. During his reign numerous insurrections occurred among the -Chinese, and much discontent existed throughout the empire. In the -year 1805-06, the tenth of Keaking's reign, the Russian embassy under -Count Golovkin, failed in obtaining an interview with the emperor, in -consequence of refusing to submit to the Kotow, or ceremony of thrice -kneeling and nine times bowing the head to the ground. In the year -1816, the twenty-first year of his reign, the British embassy, under -Lord Amherst, was sent back from Peking, in a similar manner. During -the latter years of his life, Keaking was extremely indolent and -inattentive to government, being wholly devoted to the gratification of -his vicious desires. He died in August, 1820, in the sixty-first year -of his age, and the twenty-fifth of his reign. - -Taoukwang is the Kwohaou of the reigning emperor, who succeeded to -his father Keaking in the thirty-ninth year of his age. The chief -occurrences which have taken place during his reign, are the revolts -in Turkestan or little Bukharia. In figure, Taoukwang is said to be -tall, thin, and of a dark complexion. He is of a generous disposition, -diligent, attentive to government and economical in his expenditures. -He has also avoided through life, the vices to which his younger -brothers are addicted. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - DEATH--CEREMONIES OF IMPERIAL MOURNING--POPULATION OF THE CHINESE - EMPIRE--KNOCK-HEAD CEREMONY--BEGGARS--CAT AND DOG MARKET--DR. - B. AND THE CHINA-MAN--BARBERS--DRESS OF THE CHINESE--THE DRAGON - GOD--SLAVERY. - - -The Chinese having a great horror of the word "_death_," they -substitute in its place various periphrases, such as "absent," -"rambling among the genii," "he being sick, occasioned a vacancy," -i. e., dead. The empress having died during the month of June, 1833, -an imperial mandate was published, stating that "her _departure took -place_ at four o'clock on the sixteenth of the month." His majesty says -he was married to Tung-kea twenty-six years previously; that she was -the _principal person_ in the _middle harem_, that she was ever full -of tenderness, filial piety, and was most obedient--but being attacked -by an inveterate dysentery, she had taken the "long departure," and -that it caused him much pain at the loss of his "domestic helper"--his -"interior assistant." His majesty set forth her great virtues, ever -since she had been consort to _heaven_, (i. e. the emperor,) during the -thirteen years that she had held the relative situation of _earth_ to -imperial heaven. An edict was published at her death, ordering, that no -officer should have his head shaved during one hundred days, nor have -any marriage in his family during twenty-seven days, nor play on any -musical instrument during one year; and that the soldiers and people -should not shave their heads for one month, nor engage in marriages -during seven days, nor play on any musical instrument during one -hundred days. - -Other marks of mourning, are the use of blue ink in the public offices -in the place of red, and the removal of the red fringe which usually -ornaments the Chinese caps. - -[Sidenote: IMPERIAL MOURNING.] - -The following is the translation of the "Order of rites observed in -receiving the imperial mandate, raising lamentation, and laying aside -the mourning clothes, on occasion of the grand ceremony following the -demise of an empress." It was circulated in Canton as a supplement -to the daily court circular. When the imperial mandate, written on -yellow paper, comes down the river, an officer is immediately deputed -to receive and guard it at the imperial landing place. The master of -ceremonies leads the officer, and directs him to receive the mandate -with uplifted hands; land and deposite it safely in the _dragon dome_, -(a kind of carriage borne by sixteen or thirty-two men,) and spread it -out in proper form. The civil and military officers in plain dresses, -then kneel down in order, in the "Sunny-side pavillion," and so remain -until the mandate has passed. When they have risen, the officer leads -the procession to the grand gate of the examination court; the civil -and military officers then first enter the "most public hall," and -there kneel down, the civilians on the east side, and the military -on the west, until the dragon-dome has passed; after which they rise -and wait till the dome has entered the hall of the constellation -Kwei. In this hall an embroidered yellow curtain and incense-table, -must previously be prepared, and an officer be sent to receive, with -reverence, the imperial mandate and safely lay it on the table. When -this has been done all the officers enter; upon which the master of -ceremonies cries out: "Range yourselves in order, perform the ceremony -of thrice kneeling, and nine times knocking the head." He then requests -to have the mandate read aloud; and the public official reader raises -up the mandate to read it. - -_Master of Ceremonies._ "Officers--all kneel--hear the proclamation -read--(and when the reading is concluded he continues)--rise--raise -lamentation." The officers do so accordingly. After the lamentation, -the reader places the mandate on the yellow table, and the master of -ceremonies calls out: "Deliver the imperial mandate." An officer is -then sent to the yellow table, who raises up the mandate, and delivers -it to the governor, kneeling. The governor having received it, rises, -and delivers it to the Poo-ching-sze, also kneeling; the latter -officer in turn rises, and delivers it to his chief clerk, likewise -kneeling. The clerk rises and takes it to the hall of Tsze-wei, (in the -Poo-ching-sze's office,) to be printed on yellow paper. - -_Master of Ceremonies._ "Officers--all put on mourning dresses." The -officers then retire; when they have changed their dresses, the -master of ceremonies leads them back, and gives the order: "Arrange -yourselves, thrice kneel and nine times knock head--rise--raise -lamentation--(after lamentation)--eat." The officers then go out to the -hall of abstinence, where they eat a little, the civil and military -each taking their respective sides. The master of ceremonies then -cries: "Retire." They retire to the "public place," and in the evening -reassemble, and perform the same ceremonies. At night, they sleep in -the public place, separate from their families. The same ceremonies are -performed in the morning and evening of the two following days, after -which the officers return to their ordinary duties. - -When the mandate has been copied, an officer is sent with it to the -hall of the constellation Kwei, to place it on the yellow table, and -another is sent to burn incense and keep respectful charge of it for -twenty-seven days; after which it is delivered to the Poo-ching-sze, -and sent back to the board of rites. On the twenty-seventh day, -the officers assemble as before, and, after the same ceremonies of -lamentation have been gone through, the master of ceremonies gives the -order: "Take off mourning--put on plain clothes--remove the table of -incense." All then return home and the mourning ceremonies are at an -end. - -The population contained in the eighteen provinces of the Chinese -empire, according to the census taken in the eighteenth year of the -emperor Keenlung, (corresponding to the year 1812,) amounted to three -hundred and sixty-one millions, six hundred and ninety-eight thousand, -eight hundred and seventy-nine souls. This statement is taken from -a work called the "Ta-tsing-hwny-teen," a collection of statutes of -the "Ta-tsing dynasty," published by government, in sixteen duodecimo -volumes, for the use of its own officers; it furnishes the data on -which the government acts in levying taxes, &c. All the people are -included excepting, we believe, those who are employed in the civil -and military service of the emperor. The mode of taking the census -is very minute and particular; every province is divided into _foos_ -and _chows_; these are subdivided into _heens_; from the _heen_ the -sub-division is carried down to the _kea_, which consists of only ten -families. Ten _keas_ make a _paou_, or neighbourhood of _one hundred_ -families, which has a headman or constable, whose duty it is to watch -over the whole; and among other things, to keep a list of all the -families and individuals within his jurisdiction; it is also the duty -of this constable to report the names of those within his limits to the -chief officer of the heen; who reports to the chief officer foo; he -again to the treasurer of the province; who in his turn, annually, on -the tenth moon, reports to the board of revenue at Peking. Such is the -division and the order required by the laws of the land. This system -certainly enables the government to know, and to state accurately, the -number of individuals, not only in every province, but in any given -district of each or any one of the provinces. - -The Chinese empire having remained undisturbed by wars, or by internal -commotions of much importance, for more than one hundred and twenty -years, an accumulation has taken place on a comparatively small spot, -of a moiety of all the human beings which are now in existence. On a -first view of this immense, this incomprehensible number of living -beings, we can scarcely believe the evidence of our senses or conceive -how it is possible that sustenance can be procured for such an -assemblage; but when we have ascertained that the country is nearly -destitute of flocks and herds, that the ground is almost exclusively -appropriated to the feeding and clothing of its inhabitants, that -there are a less number of souls, by seventy to the square mile, than -is found in the dutchy of Lucca, and but five more in the same space -than in the Netherlands, which contains two hundred and seventy-five, -our wonder in a great degree ceases, and we are compelled to believe -that the Chinese government has published as accurate a statement -of its population as any European government, or that of the United -States: nor can we conceive what object the government can have in -deceiving its own subjects, for the work is evidently not published -for the use of curious inquirers abroad. It is also well known, that -the inhabitants live in the most frugal manner, that a bowl of rice -with a few vegetables, or perhaps a little fish or fowl, which is very -abundant, is the entire provision of multitudes. - -Large portions of the country yield two crops annually, and those -generally very abundant; the inhabitants also obtain provisions -from the Persian gulf to the bay of Bengal, from Burmah, Siam and -Cochin-China, and from every important island throughout the great -Indian Archipelago. Every animal and vegetable substance is also an -edible with one class or other of the people. Large quantities of -vegetable produce, which in any other country would be devoured by the -flocks and herds, are here consumed by human beings. If we regard the -produce of the soil, and the manner in which the people live, we have -strong presumptive evidence of a very numerous population. - -[Sidenote: HABITS OF THE CHINESE.] - -The Chinese of the present day are grossly superstitious; they offer -sacrifices to the manes of deceased relatives and friends, and emblems -of money and clothes are consumed on the supposition that a substantial -benefit will be transferred to the individual in the world of spirits. - -In their habits they are most depraved and vicious; gambling is -universal and is carried to a most ruinous and criminal extent; -they use the most pernicious drugs as well as the most intoxicating -liquors to produce intoxication; they are also gross gluttons; every -thing that runs, walks, creeps, flies, or swims, in fact, every thing -that will supply the place of food, whether of the sea, or the land, -and articles most disgusting to other people, are by them greedily -devoured. The government has a code of laws, written in blood; the -most horrid tortures are used to force confessions, and the judges are -noted for being grossly corrupt; the variety and ingenuity displayed in -prolonging the tortures of miserable criminals who are finally intended -to be deprived of life, can only be conceived by a people refined in -cruelty, blood-thirsty, and inhuman. - -Ancient Chinese books in speaking of their character, say: "Their -natural disposition is light and ostentatious, fond of talk, artfully -specious, with little truth or sincerity--the people of Canton are -silly, light, weak in body and in mind, and without any ability to -fight. The Chinese believe in sorcery and demons, and lay stress on -a multiplicity of sacrifices--they have tattooed bodies, and short -hair." Of these ancient features of their character, they still retain -a fondness of talk, are specious, crafty and insincere; their timidity -and weakness, also still remain; they believe in sorcery and demons, -and lay stress on a multiplicity of sacrifices. Sir Thomas Herbert in -his quaint language, says: "The Chinese are no quarrellers, albeit -voluptuous, costly in their sports, great gamesters, and in trading, -too subtle for young merchants; oft-times so wedded to deceiving, that -after they have lost their whole estate, wife and children are staked; -yet in a little time, Jewlike, by gleaning here and there, they are -able to redeem their loss; and if not at the promised day, wife and -children are then sold in the market." The Chinese settlers throughout -the Indian Archipelago, are described as being at once enterprising, -keen, laborious, luxurious, sensual, debauched, and pusillanimous; they -are generally engaged in trade, in which they are equally speculative, -expert, and judicious. Their superior intelligence and activity have -placed in their hands the management of the public revenue, in almost -every country of the Archipelago, whether ruled by native or European: -the traffic of the Archipelago, with the surrounding foreign states, is -almost wholly conducted by them. - -There is scarcely a government gazette published at Peking; almost -daily, placards are posted at the principal places about Canton and -its suburbs, giving accounts of murders, and insurrections, robberies, -shocking and unnatural crimes of kidnapping, infanticides, suicides, -and of all the beastly and unnatural crimes of which the world ever -heard or read. The various modes of punishment resorted to by the -government, and the unequal distribution of justice, are revolting to -humanity, and most disgusting and loathsome in the recital. I will -relate one case to show, that, in modern times, the Chinese are not -less refined in their cruelties, than when Ta-he, the queen of Chow, -among many other horrible inventions, caused brazen rollers to be -heated, and then smeared with an unctuous matter, so that she might -have the supreme pleasure of seeing miserable culprits, fruitlessly -endeavouring to pass this burning bridge, and continually slipping into -a tremendous fire, there to meet with a death horrible in the extreme. -The case to which I have alluded, took place in the year 1813, when the -emperor of China convicted a eunuch of being concerned in a treasonable -conspiracy. The victim had been a favourite servant of the emperor's -father, Keen-lung, who had conferred upon him many favours. The poor -wretch was bound round with cords and canvass, to which was added a -quantity of tallow and other combustible matter, so as to convert him -into a _gigantic candle_, and he was slowly consumed at his father's -grave: the wretched being died in tortures the most excruciating that -imagination can conceive! - -[Sidenote: COURT CEREMONIES.] - -As our departure from hence will be for the kingdoms of Cochin-China, -and Siam, to effect suitable commercial treaties with those countries, -and as similar court ceremonies are there used as at the court of -Pekin, I herewith present a memoir, written by a most worthy and highly -respectable clergyman, the Reverend Doctor Morrison of Canton, upon -the subject of court ceremonies, observed from the lower to the higher -dignitaries throughout the Chinese empire, from the simple joining of -the hands and raising them before the breast, to the climax of all that -is debasing, the ceremony called the _San-kwei-kew-kow_, or "kneeling -three different times, and at each time knocking the head thrice -against the ground."--"What are called ceremonies, sometimes affect -materially the idea of equality. They are not always mere forms, but -revelations of a language, as intelligible as words. Some ceremonies -are perfectly indifferent, as whether the form of salutation be taking -off the hat and bowing the head, or keeping it on and bowing it low, -with the hands folded below the breast; these, the one English, and -the other Chinese, are equally good. There is, however, a difference -of submission and devotedness, expressed by different postures of the -body; and some nations feel an almost instinctive reluctance to the -stronger expression of submission. Standing and bending the head, -for instance, are less than kneeling on one knee, that is less so -than kneeling on both knees; and the latter posture less humiliating -than kneeling on two knees, and putting the hands and forehead to the -ground; doing this once, is, in the apprehension of the Chinese, less -than doing it three, six, or nine times. - -"Waiving the question, whether it be proper for one human being to -use such strong expressions of submission to another or not; when -any, even the strongest of these forms are reciprocal, they do not -destroy the idea of equality, or of mutual independence; if they are -not reciprocally performed, the last of the forms expresses in the -strongest manner, the submission and homage of one person or state to -another; and, in this light, the Tartar family, now on the throne of -China, consider the ceremony called _San-kwei-kew-kow_ thrice kneeling, -and nine times beating the head against the ground. Those nations of -Europe who consider themselves tributary and yielding homage to China, -should perform the Tartar ceremony; those who do not so consider -themselves, should not perform it. The English ambassador, Macartney, -appears to have understood correctly the meaning of the ceremony, and -proposed the only alternative which could enable him to perform it; -viz., a Chinese of equal rank performing it to the king of England's -picture. - -"Perhaps a promise from the Chinese court, that should an ambassador -ever go from thence to England, he would perform it in the king's -presence, might have enabled him to do it. These remarks will probably -convince the reader that the English government acts as every civilized -government ought to act, when she endeavours to cultivate a good -understanding, and liberal intercourse with China, while, using those -endeavours, she never contemplates yielding homage, and wisely refuses -to perform by her ambassador, that ceremony which is the expression of -homage. - -"The lowest form by which respect is shown in China at this day, is -_kung-show_, that is, joining the hands and raising them before the -breast. The next is _tsa-yih_, that is, bowing low with the hands -joined. The third is _ta-tseen_, bending the knee as if about to kneel. -The fourth is _kwei_, to kneel. The fifth is _ko-tow_, kneeling and -striking the head against the ground. The sixth, _san-kow_, striking -the head three times against the earth before rising from the knees. -The seventh, _luh-kow_, that is, kneeling and striking the forehead -three times; rising on the feet, kneeling down again, and striking the -head, again, three times on the earth. The climax is closed by the -_sun-kwei-kew-kow_, kneeling three different times, and at each time -knocking the head thrice against the ground. Some of the gods of China -are entitled only to the _san-kow_; others to the _luh-kow_; the _teen_ -(heaven) and the emperor, are worshipped with the _san-kwei-kew-kow_." - -[Sidenote: BEGGARS.] - -_Beggars_ are licensed by the government, confined within particular -districts, and are under the control of certain officers. If any are -found wandering beyond their designated limits, they are liable to -be punished by the officer who has charge over them; in addition to -this, they seldom escape being severely beaten by the mendicants whose -district they invade. They are all registered, and receive a small -monthly allowance of rice, which, together with the alms they obtain, -barely suffices to keep them from starving. Great numbers die in the -streets, in the winter, from cold and want of food, and are buried -at the public expense. A beggar is seldom forcibly driven away from -a door; for, should that occur, a complaint would be instantly made -to the proper officer, and the offender would be punished, or be -_squeezed_, as the Chinese term it, or mulct in a heavy fine. On the -28th November, 1832, public notice was given, for the beggars of a -certain district, to assemble in front of the foreign factories, "upon -important measures, touching the interests of the fraternity." It was -stated, that certain impostors, from other districts, had been guilty -of the great crime of begging within their limits; and it was therefore -necessary that the name of each person should be ascertained, that -he might be brought before the proper officer for punishment, and be -driven into his own proper district. Great numbers assembled, toward -sunset, after the regular begging hours were over. I had the curiosity -to visit this _horrible_ group of unfortunates for a few moments, and -the recollection of the scene can never be effaced from my memory. The -blind, halt, and lame, were there, of all ages and of both sexes; a -more motley group, or a more disgusting spectacle, was never before -seen. They were squalid and ragged, filthy, and covered with vermin. -Many a blind Bartelmy, and many a Lazarus, were lying there, literally -covered with sores. I returned home, sincerely thanking God that I was -not thus wretched, and that I stood in no need of a temporal physician -to cure me of any loathsome disease. - -Blindness is a very common misfortune in China; it is said to be caused -generally by depriving the head of almost its entire natural covering, -by being closely shaven, and using no effectual guard to protect it -from the extremes of the weather: none wear turbans, and but few hats -or umbrellas; slight paper fans being in general use. We were informed, -that many a child was made blind by the use of caustic, applied by its -parents, or by those who purchased it, for the purpose of exciting -compassion, in order to increase their gains in the practice of -soliciting alms. There are few sights so ridiculously amusing, in the -suburbs of Canton, as these untiring vagabonds: they are an excessive -annoyance to shop-keepers: a stranger cannot walk without seeing a -number of them assembled in the shop of some obstinate fellow, who -apparently seems determined to tire them out. - -I have frequently seen from three to six assembled, some sitting in the -doorway, some lying down, and others standing at the counter, each of -them beating most violently on two stout pieces of bamboo, and making a -most insufferable noise. - -Occasionally, a whole family of "singing beggars" are met with, making -the most horrible discord, and singing at the very top of their voices; -the rough music from marrow-bones, cleavers, and frying-pans, is vastly -preferable to it. Again, others are seen, who are either more rich, or -possess greater privileges of annoyance, being allowed to carry all -sorts of musical instruments, viz.: a drum, secured to the waist; a -small gong, suspended from the neck; and a trumpet, in the mouth. Now -and then, a sturdy, self-willed shopman, would pay no attention to -the vile pest: forthwith a loud thump was given on the drum, then a -thundering noise from the gong, followed by a horrible blast from the -trumpet. It would provoke the risibles of a saint, to see the gravity -of countenance exhibited by both parties. The shopman, attending to his -goods, apparently unconscious of the presence of the other, while the -beggar is pursuing his vocation as though his very existence depended -upon his making such a noise, as would awake the seven sleepers of -Christendom. As no customer is willing to enter a shop where he cannot -be heard, the master is at length, most unwillingly, compelled to give -him one cash, (about the eight-hundredth part of a dollar;) if this -should not be perfect in every respect, it is returned, and a good -one absolutely _demanded_, or a repetition of all that is horrible in -discord, and all that is unbearable in vile sounds is repeated. So it -proceeds from early dawn to setting-sun: as fast as one beggar-customer -is gone, another and another make their appearance; but the donor can -expel them if they call oftener than once a day. - -[Sidenote: CAT AND DOG MARKET.] - -Near the entrance of Old China-street, between Minqua's hong, and the -American hong of Messrs. Oliphant & Co., called, "Kwan yueng hang," or, -"The factory of wide fountains," (where I had the pleasure of spending -a couple of months,) there is the mart for the sale of cats and dogs. -The venders regularly meet, daily, from one to three, (_high-change -hours_ being about two.) Here may be seen, arranged along the pavement -in regular order, baskets and cages of these animals, the latter being -used for poor puss only, who seemed always to be out of place. - -Being within a half dozen steps of the venders, I overlooked them -from the balcony, and saw their daily operations; and, as trifling -as it may seem to others, I acknowledge that I was much amused with -the examinations that the poor animals underwent. Poor puss, as a -sailor would say, was "thoroughly overhauled, from clue to ear-ring," -to see if she was sound in health; if she had a handsome, smooth, -glossy coat, suitable for ornamenting some garment; if she was free -from "cow-licks," or the hair growing the wrong way; if her limbs -were sound, and suitable for making penny whistles, and other small -articles; and if she was plump, well-fatted, fit for culinary purposes, -and not blown out by injecting air into the body: a common Chinese -trick, and which is not tolerated by _fair, grave merchants_. Young -she-cats were preferred for breeders, and commanded double the price of -tom-cats. The puppies (for there were but few full grown dogs offered -for sale) were likewise thoroughly examined, to ascertain if their -outward garment was in good condition--if they were fat, sleek, free -from a musky or strong smell, and fit to make a rich press-soup, of -which the Chinese are extravagantly fond; if their limbs were sound and -not distorted, and if they were the true Chinese breed of prick-eared -curs, having black palates and black tongues, with a well-curved -feathery tail. The sluts brought generally, I found, more than double -the price of the males. The pedigree (being an important matter always -in monarchical governments) was also particularly inquired into. - -It may perhaps, by some, be thought that I have been unnecessarily -particular in making the above statements, in reference to an -insignificant portion of the brute creation; but, as I was anxious to -give every particular in reference to the internal, as well as external -commerce of China, the reader will perhaps excuse the detail given -above. - -I cannot take my leave of the canine species, without relating a -provoking loss which befel Dr. M. B--ghs, of Philadelphia, during my -stay in China. The gentleman had purchased, at a high price, a fine -pup, on Change, for the purpose of carrying it to the United States. -The dog being rather troublesome in running about the house, he told -a Chinese servant, who spoke English, to tie him up. The doctor went -out, as usual, in search of curiosities, such as rare birds, &c., -which he skinned and prepared. On his return, he inquired of the -servant if he had tied up the dog and secured him. "Yez," said he, -"hab done, hab done." Well, said the doctor, where is he "Up loom, -up loom," meaning up in the doctor's room; for a China-man cannot -pronounce the letter _r_. He immediately ushered the way up stairs, -threw open the chamber-door suddenly, and exhibited the dog tied up, -but strangled, having hung him! "Can do? can do?" said he, with an air -perfectly unconscious of having done wrong. "Can do?" said the doctor, -echoing back his words in a tone which indicated any thing rather than -satisfaction, "I wish you were there tied up in his stead." - -In front of the foreign factories, there are assembled regularly, every -morning, at an early hour, the "Barbers," with their basins and snug -seats, for the use of their customers. They wield a very short, clumsy -razor, having a round wooden handle, without a particle of superfluous -wood about it: the blade is two and a half inches long, one and a half -inches broad at the end, and tapering to less than half an inch toward -the handle; it is three eighths of an inch in thickness, for about an -inch and a half of its length; the handle is of wood, round, and three -eighths of an inch in diameter, and the length of the instrument is six -inches. - -Strict economy is observed in shaving; water only being used to soften -the hair. The head is shaved, leaving only a long lock, which is -plaited or braided, and if the tail fails to reach the heels, it is -eked out with black riband. Generally speaking, all the hair is shaved -from the face, nose, and the _eye-lids_; for a China-man will always -have the full worth of his money, although he pays but three or four -cash (equal to about a half cent) to the operator; the eyebrows are -then adjusted, and the hair eradicated from the ears and nostrils with -tweezers; the nail and corn cutter is then resorted to, who repairs and -polishes the nails of the hands and feet: the China-man is in prime -order--a small scull-cap, or palm-leaf pointed hat, is then put on, -or he protects his head with an ordinary looking paper fan, having on -it some moral sentences. At ten and at four he goes to his dark hole, -where he exercises his "chop-sticks" with great dexterity, regaling -himself with rice and vegetables, deluged with the fat of pork, if he -can obtain it. A draught of water, and a dram of shewhing, (arrack,) a -pipe of tobacco, and a piece of areca-nut, place him at once among the -celestials; but if to these, a pipe or two of refined opium be added, -not that exquisite of all pleasures, in the opinion of the country -bumpkin, of swinging on a gate all day, and eating bountifully of -mush and molasses, can bear any comparison with this care-killing and -unparalleled pleasure. - -Of all uncouth figures, that strut their little hour upon the stage -of life, a China-man is surely the most grotesque animal. A loose -shirt for his outer and principal garment--his bagging breeks, added -to his white slouching stockings, made of cotton cloth, filled with -wrinkles--his black cloth slippers, with a white sole half an inch -thick--his shaved head, with his long plaited cue, streaming out -when he runs, like a ship's pennant in a brisk breeze--his elongated -and stupid eyes; a fan in one hand, and a long wooden pipe in the -other--his enormous spectacles, without bows, astride on the tip of his -nose, and his mouth upon the full gape, standing for hours in front of -the factory of "wide fountains," looking at the fan-kweis, (the foreign -white devils,) present him as the most unprepossessing figure ever -beheld--the most awkward looking biped in the universe. - -[Sidenote: SLAVERY.] - -Chang-ling, the great hero of Cashgar, has memorialized his majesty, -and informed him, that, during the late attack of the rebels on that -city, they endeavored to inundate it by cutting a channel and entering -the course of the adjoining river; but the Lung-shin, (Dragon-god,) -who presides over rivers and seas, prevented the design from being -effected. For this "_divine manifestation_" in favour of the imperial -cause, the emperor has ordered a _new title_ to be given to the god, a -_new temple_ to be built, and a _new tablet_ to _adorn_ it. Slavery, -in China, presents its worst features; the children of the slaves are -born slaves; and the children of free masters enjoy their rights over -them throughout all generations. There have been cases in which the -masters have become poor, and allowed their slaves to go and provide -for themselves; they have become rich, but being again found by their -masters, the latter have seized all the property. There are slaves of -another class, who are not bought outright, but with the condition that -they may be redeemed. Good masters admit the claim, when made agreeably -to contract; but bad ones use every expedient to prevent the claim of -redemption. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - CLIMATE OF CANTON AND MACAO--METEOROLOGICAL AVERAGES--DEPARTURE - FROM CANTON FOR MACAO AND LINTING--MACAO--POPULATION--SUPERSTITIOUS - CEREMONY. - - -[Sidenote: CLIMATE.] - -The coast of China being similarly situated to that of the United -States, having a vast continent stretching from the south and northwest -to the northeast, possesses a climate nearly of the same character and -temperature. From the gulf of Tung-hing to the vicinity of Canton, it -may well be compared to the coast stretching from the Mississippi to -North Carolina, and the coast extending from Canton to that of Tartary, -to the states from North Carolina to Maine. - -The climate of Peking is salubrious, and like that of the middle and -northern states of the union. The water is frozen from December until -March. Violent storms occur in the spring; the heat in summer is great, -and the autumnal months of September, October and November are the most -pleasant part of the year. But my principal object is to delineate -the climate of Canton and Macao, which lie between the latitudes of -twenty-two and twenty-three north; the statement is copied from the -Canton Register. I have added thereto several tables of meteorological -averages. Canton is regarded by the Chinese, as one of the most -unhealthy portions of their country, yet it is a more healthy climate -than that of most other places, situated in the same degree of latitude. - -The weather during the month of January, is dry, cold, and bracing, -differing but little, if at all, from the two preceding months, -November and December. The wind blows generally from the north, -occasionally inclining to northeast or northwest. Any change to -the south, causes considerable variation in the temperature of the -atmosphere. - -During the month of _February_ the thermometer continues low; but the -dry, bracing cold of the three preceding months is changed for a damp -and chilly atmosphere: the number of fine days is much diminished, and -cloudy or foggy weather of more frequent recurrence in February and -March than in any other months. At Macao, the fog is often so dense as -to render objects invisible at a few yards' distance. - -The weather in the month of _March_, as stated above, is damp and -foggy; but the temperature of the atmosphere becomes considerably -warmer. To preserve articles from damp, it is requisite to continue the -use of fires and closed rooms, which the heat of the atmosphere renders -very unpleasant. From this month the thermometer rises until July and -August, when the heat is at its maximum. - -The thick fogs which begin to disappear towards the close of _March_, -are, in April, seldom if ever seen. The atmosphere, however, continues -damp, and rainy days are not unfrequent; the thermometer at the same -time, gradually rises, and the nearer approach of the sun, renders -its heat more perceptible. In this, and the following summer months, -southeasterly winds generally prevail. - -In the month of _May_, summer is fully set in, and the heat, -particularly in Canton, is often oppressive; the more so from the -closeness of the atmosphere, the winds being usually light and -variable. This is the most rainy month in the year, averaging fifteen -days and a half of heavy rain; cloudy days, without rain, are, however, -of unfrequent occurrence; and one half of the month averages fine sunny -weather. - -_June_ is also a very wet month, yet, taking the aggregate, the number -of rainy days is less than in the other summer months. The thermometer -in this month rises several degrees higher than in May, and falls -but little at night. It is this latter circumstance chiefly, which -occasions the exhaustion often felt in this country from the heat of -summer. - -The month of _July_ is the hottest in the year, the thermometer -reaching eighty-eight in the shade, at noon, both at Canton and Macao. -This month is also subject to frequent heavy showers of rain, and, like -the month of August, to storms of thunder and lightning. The winds blow -almost unintermittingly from southeast or south. - -In the month of _August_ the heat is generally as oppressive as in -July, and often more so, although the thermometer usually stands lower. -Towards the close of the month, the summer begins to break up, the wind -occasionally veering from southeast, to north and northwest. Typhoons -seldom occur earlier than this month or later than the end of September. - -In _September_ the monsoon is generally broken up, and northerly winds -begin to blow, but with little alleviation of heat. This is the period -most exposed to the description of hurricanes called typhoons, the -range of which extends southward, over about one half of the Chinese -sea, but not far northward; they are most severe in the gulf of Tonquin. - -Northerly winds prevail throughout the month of _October_, occasionally -veering to northeast or northwest; but the temperature of the -atmosphere is neither so cold nor dry as in the following months, nor -does the northerly wind blow so constantly, a few days of southerly -wind frequently intervening. The winter usually sets in with three or -four days of light drizzling rain. - -_November_, and the following months, are the most pleasant in the -year, at least to the feelings of persons from more northern climes. -Though the thermometer is not often below forty, and seldom so low -as thirty, the cold of the Chinese winter is often very severe. Ice -often forms about one eighth of an inch thick; but this is usually in -December or January. - -The months of _December_ and _January_ are remarkably free from rain; -the average fall, in each month, being under one inch; and the average -number of rainy days being only three and a half. On the whole, the -climate of Canton, but more especially of Macao, may be considered -superior to that of most other places situated between the tropics. - -Tables of observations on the thermometer and barometer for the year -1831. The averages at Canton are taken from the Canton Register. The -averages at Macao, from a private diary, kept by Mr. Blettersnan. - - Column headings: - - ad: aver. noon. - an: aver. night. - h: highest. - l: lowest. - am: aver. 7 a. m. - pm: aver. 2 p. m. - mh: mean height. - - Table I. Table II. Table III. Table IV. - Thermometer at Thermometer at Barometer at Barometer at - Canton. Macao. Canton. Macao. - --------------------+--------------+-----------------+----------------- - ad an h l |am pm h l | mh h l | mh h l - -----+--------------+--------------+-----------------+----------------- - Jan. |64 50 74 29|62 65 72 53|30.22 30.50 30.00|30.26 30.50 30.05 - Feb. |57 49 78 38|59 59 71 49|30.13 30.50 29.60|30.13 30.40 29.97 - March|72 60 82 44|66 69 77 55|30.17 30.50 29.95|30.20 30.48 30.05 - April|77 68 86 55|73 75 83 66|30.03 30.25 29.85|30.08 30.27 29.93 - May |78 72 88 64|77 78 85 71|29.92 30.10 29.80|29.95 30.06 29.85 - June |85 79 90 74|82 84 89 74|29.88 30.00 29.75|29.92 30.00 29.85 - July |88 81 94 79|84 88 92 81|29.83 30.00 29.60|29.87 30.01 29.60 - Aug. |85 78 90 75|82 85 90 79|29.85 30.00 29.55|29.88 30.02 29.56 - Sept.|83 76 88 70|81 84 88 76|29.91 30.10 29.70|29.91 30.05 29.35 - Oct. |77 69 85 57|75 78 86 61|30.01 30.20 29.50|30.03 30.19 29.45 - Nov. |67 57 80 40|65 68 80 57|30.16 30.55 29.95|30.14 30.36 29.95 - Dec. |62 52 70 45|62 65 70 57|30.23 30.35 30.15|30.23 30.31 30.15 - -The average of rain is the mean of its fall at Macao, during sixteen -years, furnished by Mr. Beale. The number of rainy days and continuance -of winds, are the mean of four years at Canton, taken from the Canton -Register. - - Column headings: - - a: average. - h: high. - l: low. - mq: mean quantity in inches. - mn: mean number of rainy days. - - |Table V. | Table VI.| Table VII. - |Hygrom. | Rain at | Continuance of Winds at Canton, the - |at Macao.| Canton. | mean of four years. - +---------+----------+--------------------------------------- - |a h l | mq mn | days. - +---------+----------+--------------------------------------- - | | | N. NE. E. SE. S. SW. W. NW. - Jan. |76 95 46 | 0.6¾ 3½|11 2 2¼ 4 4 0½ 0 7 - Feb. |82 96 76 | 1.7 7 |11 1½ 2¼ 5¼ 1½ 0¼ 0 6¼ - March|78 97 30 | 2.1½ 6 | 5¾ 1¾ 3¾ 10¾ 2½ 0 0½ 3 - April|81 95 50 | 5.6¾ 10 | 6¼ 1 4 14¾ 1 0½ 0 3½ - May |81 95 57 |11.8½ 15½| 4¾ 2½ 3½ 16¼ 1¼ 0¼ 0¼ 2½ - June |80 95 70 |11.1 9 | 1¾ 0¾ 2 21¼ 3 0¾ 0 0½ - July |83 96 70 | 7.7½ 10 | 1¼ 1 1¾ 21 3 1¾ 0¼ 1 - Aug. |84 97 70 | 9.9 12½| 3 2 3 18 1¼ 0¼ 0½ 3 - Sept.|84 95 50 |10.9¼ 10 |10-3/8 4 3-1/8 8¾ 0 0 0 2¾ - Oct. |75 95 20 | 5.5 5 |12 3¼ 3-1/8 5-7/8 1¾ 0½ 0-1/8 5¾ - Nov. |61 96 20 | 2.4½ 3 |23 0½ 0-3/8 1¼ 1-7/8 0 0 3 - Dec. |71 90 30 | 0.9¾ 3½|18½ 2-7/8 1-1/8 2 2¾ 0 0-1/8 3-5/8 - -After remaining nearly two months at Canton, I took passage in a fine -cutter, under English colours, for Macao, via Linting, and anchored in -about twenty-four hours, within half a mile of the landing, at Pria -Grande. Immediately on our nearing the harbour, a race took place among -the amphibious damsels that inhabit the numerous sampans, tanka or -egg-boats, which always lie within a short distance of the shore. Whole -families inhabit them, and they are extremely encumbered with children, -and the various articles used by the family. Their length is from -twelve to eighteen feet, and the breadth is about one half the length. -They have oval, sliding roofs, made of bamboo or mats, in two or three -sections, which are extended occasionally the whole length of the -boat. The occupants are extremely poor and miserable; they wear slight -dresses, consisting of a long frock and trousers, of tan-coloured -cotton. Except when heavy gales prevail, they rarely sleep on shore. - -[Sidenote: MACAO.] - -The town of Macao presents a pretty appearance from the roadstead. A -spacious semi-circular bay is encompassed with hills, crowned with -forts, convents, churches, and private buildings: the houses being -kept well whitewashed, it gives the town quite a neat appearance. The -streets are generally narrow, but they are exceedingly so through the -Chinese bazar, &c., not exceeding, perhaps, six or eight feet. Most of -the houses are built in the Portuguese style; but the Chinese houses -are, with very few exceptions, dark, filthy, and uncomfortable. Macao -is the summer residence of the foreign merchants of Canton; and it -is reputed to be one of the most immoral places in the world. It is -a rocky peninsula, about eight English miles in circumference; its -greatest length is about three, and its breadth less than one mile. -It forms part of the island of Heong-shan-nne, and was renowned, long -before the Portuguese were settled there, for its safe and commodious -inner harbour, and a temple consecrated to Ama. This settlement was -formerly called Amangas, that is, the port of Ama; and first took the -name of A-macao; but, in time, the first letter was suppressed, and -the place has ever since been called Macao by the Portuguese, and Moon -by the Chinese. The Portuguese had _temporary_ abodes at this place, -for about twenty years, by giving bribes to the authorities to erect -huts, under the false pretext of drying damaged goods, until they were -expelled by mal-conduct, in 1558, from Ningpa and Chinchew, when they -induced the local officers of Macao, by their old system of bribery, to -erect permanent dwellings. - -[Sidenote: POPULATION OF MACAO.] - -The population from that time, rapidly increased; a temporary -government was established, and a great influx of priests followed. In -the year 1573, the wall across the isthmus was erected by the Chinese -government, to prevent the _kidnapping of children_, as well as the -sale of them by their wretched parents to over-zealous missionaries, -who adopted every means, however infamous, to make converts to their -religion, and to prevent the ingress of the Chinese; but it has been -long disregarded by the latter. The wall is now in a ruinous state near -the bay, being partly broken down by the encroachment of the sea; but -still no foreigners are allowed to cross it; and all provisions must -come to the gate, where a market is still held at daybreak. - -It was supposed by the world, that Portugal exercised sovereign -authority over Macao, till 1802, when a British military detachment -arrived and offered to defend it, in conjunction with the Portuguese, -against an apprehended attack from the French; knowing if they obtained -possession of it, the British commerce with Canton would be destroyed: -the Portuguese governor could not accept of their assistance, because -the Chinese authorities would not permit it. In 1808, although a -British force obtained possession of three forts, by the connivance -of the Macao government, the Chinese authorities ordered them to quit -their territories, or they would put a stop to the British trade at -Canton, and drive the Portuguese from Macao, for suffering foreign -troops to land there, without first obtaining permission of the -emperor. Macao, therefore, is still part of the Chinese empire. This is -acknowledged by the Portuguese, who still pay an annual ground-rent, -which has varied at different times, but is now limited to five hundred -taels. The Portuguese and Chinese are both governed by their respective -laws and officers; but in case of collision between two persons of -the different nations, the Chinese always dictate to the former in -what way the affair must be settled. For fifty or sixty years, the -Portuguese enjoyed the exclusive trade to China and Japan. In 1717, -and again in 1732, the Chinese government offered to make Macao the -emporium for all foreign trade, and to receive all duties on imports; -but, by a strange infatuation, the Portuguese government refused, and -its decline is dated from that period. In 1686, when all vessels of -the Chinese empire were prohibited from navigating the southern sea, -their shipping and commerce declined rapidly, till, in 1704, only two -ships remained, which could neither be manned nor fitted out. This -prohibition was, some time after, annulled. The vessels that belonged -to the port in 1832, consisted of only fifteen, (being ten less than -is allowed by the Chinese government;) their united tonnage being -four thousand five hundred and sixty-nine tons. In 1833, the number -had diminished to twelve. These vessels are principally chartered -for foreign ports by Chinese adventurers, the owners generally being -destitute of means to load them. The whole income from the customs, in -1830, was only sixty-nine thousand one hundred and thirty-eight taels; -and of this sum, thirty thousand one hundred and thirty-two taels were -paid on one thousand eight hundred and thirty-three and a half chests -of opium. The disbursements were: to the military, twenty-nine thousand -six hundred and twenty-two; civil servants, twenty-four thousand four -hundred and seventy; and to the church establishment, eight thousand -seven hundred and thirty. The extraordinary expenses were forty-six -thousand six hundred and twenty-nine, making a deficiency of about -forty thousand eight hundred taels, which must be supplied from Goa. -The population of Macao was estimated, in 1830, at four thousand six -hundred and twenty-eight, viz.: one thousand two hundred and two -white men; two thousand one hundred and forty-nine white women; three -hundred and fifty male slaves; seven hundred and seventy-nine female -slaves; and thirty-nine men, and one hundred and eighteen women, of -different castes, who are all Roman Catholics. The Chinese population -is estimated at thirty thousand. The European Portuguese consist of -only sixty-two persons. - -Macao is walled on one side, and has six forts; twelve churches, -including the church and college of St. Joseph; five small chapels, -and one Budhist temple: without the walls are three additional -temples. There is one school, where children are taught to read and -write correct Portuguese, (for this language, as spoken at Macao, is -exceedingly corrupt;) and another, where the Portuguese and Latin -grammar are taught. These are supported by royal bounty. There are an -English opthalmic hospital, and a small museum. - -I visited a _Budhist temple_, facing the inner harbour, situated in -the midst of a number of large rocks, trees being seen growing out of -their crevices. It was really composed of a number of small temples, -seated on terraces, communicating with each other by means of steps -cut out of the rock. All the buildings, wall, and steps, leading to -it, are of hewn granite, very neatly wrought, and having ornamental -work, finished in a masterly manner. This temple is a place of great -resort for mariners; and near the landing, are various offerings of -anchors, ropes, and spars. The devotees were constantly passing in -and out from the temple to the priests' houses, seated in a court. -There were several priests in attendance, and others were lounging -about the altars, with some old women, who appeared to be attached -to the premises. This temple is called "_Neang-ma-ho_," a temple of -the "Queen of heaven." The origin of it is said to be this: A number -of Fokein fishermen were about sailing from that province, when a -lady made her appearance, and told them they would all be lost in a -storm, unless they deferred it for some days. They paid no heed to her -advice, (excepting the crew of one boat,) and they were all lost in -a "ta-fung-pao," or "great tempest." The lady embarked on board the -remaining boat, when the storm had subsided, and safely landed near to -the spot where the temple now is; from that moment she was never seen -again. She is esteemed as holy, and is invoked as the protectress of -all Chinese mariners. - -[Sidenote: BIRDS.] - -I here witnessed a piece of superstition, which reminded me of drawing -lots, or cards, or opening the Bible in search of a cheering text -of Scripture, which is practised by superstitious people, in some -_Christian_ countries, for _good luck_. It was this: Many Chinese, of -both sexes, drew from a box on an altar, after considerable hesitation, -a bamboo slip, having Chinese characters marked on the end; which, I -was informed, was done by every one before they undertook any great -enterprise, and often in the minor affairs of life. They were asking a -sign from the gods; their request was to be answered favourably or not, -by carrying the mark on the stick to the priest, and ascertaining what -the corresponding mark decided. I went down near to the priest's house, -and saw many return with cheerful countenances, and a light, elastic -step, having received a favourable decision; while others walked out -very slowly and despondingly, as though good fortune and themselves had -for ever parted company. The view of the inner harbour, from this spot, -and the beautiful garden, in which is found the celebrated cave, as -it is called, of Camoens, (which, by the by, is no cave, but a narrow -passage between two very large masses of rock; and on their apex, is -placed a summer-house,) is highly picturesque. The garden is extensive, -and laid out in a picturesque style; most of the walks are chunamed, -and it is suffering by neglect. The ascent to the higher grounds is -steep; but I was amply repaid by the fine scenery which it disclosed. -I had the pleasure of seeing the celebrated aviary of Mr. Beale. -There, for the first time, I saw one of the several species of the bird -of Paradise; also the silver pheasant, mandarin ducks, and a great -variety of the rarest birds, all in a most thriving condition, and -under the immediate superintendence of their worthy owner. - -Mr. John R. Morrison, son of the Rev. Dr. Morrison, here joined me, -for the purpose of acting in the capacity of Chinese translator, -interpreter, and private secretary, on the mission to Cochin-China and -Siam, and to return to China from Singapore. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - SAILING FROM LINTING TO VUNG-LAM HARBOUR, IN THE PROVINCE OF - FOOYAN, OR PHUYEN--GOVERNMENT OF SHUNDAI--ASSISTANT KEEPER - OF VUNG-LAM--LETTERS TO THE KING OF COCHIN-CHINA--CATHOLIC - PRIEST--DEPUTIES FROM SHUNDAI. - - -After enduring several days of rainy and squally weather, we weighed -anchor, and proceeded towards Turan bay, on the northern coast of -Cochin-China, being the nearest and best point to hold communication -with the capital, called Hué, from which it is distant about fifty -miles; it being impossible to anchor off the bar of Hué during the -northeast monsoon. The weather during the passage, with the exception -of one day, was misty or rainy; and on the first day of January, 1833, -we found ourselves off the bay of Turan: but the weather was very -thick, with a heavy sea running, and the wind shifting nearly every -half hour, from northwest to northeast. - -[Sidenote: VUNG-LAM HARBOUR.] - -Finding it unsafe to run nearer to the land, we endeavoured to hold our -station, as well as we could, till the weather cleared up sufficiently -to see our way in; but it continued nearly the same till the fifth, -the wind remaining most of the time in the northwest quarter: daily we -lost ground, by contrary winds, and a strong current setting to the -southward and eastward along the coast. The very mountainous land about -the bay, was first lost sight of; in two or three days following, the -group of islands called Champella, or Cham Callao; afterward the island -of False Champella. Finding ourselves at length drifted down to Pulo -Cambir, and losing ground on every tack, we were under the unpleasant -necessity of bearing away for the most suitable and nearest harbour, -which was done at sunset on the fifth, calculating the distance to -the united harbours of Shundai, Vung-chao, and Vung-lam, (represented -by Horsburg to be very safe, and having sufficient depth of water,) -at one hundred and twenty miles. The wind, during most of the night, -was light from the northeast; and we had run, by the log accurately -kept, at seven the next morning, a distance not exceeding seventy to -seventy-five miles. At daybreak, the ship's head was directed towards -the coast, but not seeing any very conspicuous landmarks, we kept -along shore till eight; having, within an hour, passed an island, and -a group of small jagged rocks, standing so near the coast that we at -first supposed the island to be part of the main land; it was, however, -Pulo Cambir, lying to the north of our port of destination. Seeing, -to the southward of us, a large fleet of fishing boats; a very high -conical mountain, which we supposed must be mount Epervier; and the -land, extending far to the eastward, which we were satisfied must be -cape Averella, or Pagoda cape; and, at the same time, discovering the -island of Maignia, a short distance to the southward of the harbour, -we stood boldly in, and, at twelve, came to anchor, in six and a half -fathoms water, in the fine harbour of Vung-lam; the village of that -name, bearing to the southwest, distant a mile and a half, and within -three quarters of a mile of a small, uninhabited, and unnamed island, -bearing south, called, by us, Peacock island. The beautiful harbour -of Vung-chao, being open to our view, in the northeast, two miles -distant; and the harbour, or roadstead, of Shundai, with Nest island, -bearing east, about the same distance. It will be seen, by the distance -per log, that we were currented along, in fifteen hours, fifty miles; -nearly equal to three and a half miles per hour. - -To the southward of Cambir, lies a sand-beach, extending up a rising -ground, which, together with a more extensive plot near the southern -entrance, but to the southward of the island of Maignia, assist, as a -leading mark, in running in. - -This is, truly, one of the finest harbours in the world, and free from -all obstructions, save a rock, called the buoy rock, within one and a -half miles of our anchorage, the top of which is above water. - -The country around is apparently well cultivated, being laid out in -small patches, resembling gardens. It is beautifully picturesque and -bold, frequently running into hills, from one to fifteen hundred feet -high; the verdure of which extends, in many places, to the water's -edge. The hand of the workman has here been busy on every spot -susceptible of cultivation. Villages were seen among the palm-trees, -near the sandy beaches, and on the cultivated swells of land, for many -miles around us. - -In the afternoon of the day on which we anchored, an old man came on -board; though raggedly dressed and dirty, he appeared to be somewhat -superior to the fishermen who brought him off. Not being offered a -seat at first, he seemed rather disconcerted, and expressed a desire -to leave; but, having learned that he was an official personage, he -was invited down to the gun-deck, and there seated. Being interrogated -more particularly, in relation to his rank in the village, he stated -himself to be a Keep-tu (literally, assistant keeper) of Vung-lam and -King-chow, and the principal person in the village; but that he had a -superior, or commandant, at Shundai, under whom is also another officer -of equal rank with himself. - -In reply to questions about the names of places, he said that the -southernmost, or principal town or village, was called Shun-dai; -that the central one, opposite which we lay, is Vung-lam; that the -most northern is Vung-chao. Shundai, he said, formed one part, and -Vung-lam and Vung-chao, another. He was asked whether there were any -fortifications on shore; and it was explained to him that a salute -would be fired in honour of the king, if there were any guns on shore -to return it. He said there was no fortification at Vung-lam, but that -there was a fort at Shundai. He was then informed, that, on the next -morning, a salute would be fired; which was accordingly done, with -thirteen guns. Upon inquiring whether the vessel was come to trade, -or for public business, he was informed that she was a ship of war, -sent out by the President of the United States, containing a special -envoy, with a letter for the King of Cochin-China. It was explained to -him, also, that the envoy wished to go to the capital, as speedily as -possible, in order to have an audience, and to present the President's -letter. He seemed desirous to have some written paper, which he might -present to his superior: but no such paper was in readiness for him. -It was told him, that the special agent would himself write to the -capital, to announce his arrival, and desire an audience. - -In order to obtain a better idea of what measures would be requisite, -to expedite the application to Hué, various questions were asked -respecting the government, &c. He stated that the government of Shundai -and its dependancies, are immediately subordinate to the supreme -provincial government of Fooyan (or Phuyen). That the provincial -government consists of a Tongdok or governor who presides over two -provinces, and is now in the adjoining province, to the north, a Bo -chang-sü, or treasurer and sub-governor, and Au-tat-sü, or judge; and -that the seat of government is within a day's journey. The name of -the capital he said, is Tüa-tien-pu; that of the king is Ming-meng. -Speaking of the capital, he said that the ship might return northward -to it in three or four days. Attention to other points prevented any -reply being made to this remark at the time, and it was afterward -forgotten. He inquired the name of the envoy, and the number of men on -board. He then took leave after having drunk a little wine. The old man -was throughout lively and cheerful. As he wrote Chinese pretty well, it -was easy to hold intercourse with him. - -_January sixth._ Towards evening, a large party came on board, -consisting of the old head-man of Vung-lam, who visited us yesterday, -two persons despatched by the commandant of Shundai, and two Chinese -interpreters, with a number of attendants anxious to satisfy their -curiosity. The Chinese being able to speak the Mandarin as well as -their own provincial dialect, (that of Canton,) conversation was kept -up with greater facility than yesterday, little of it being held in -writing. They stated that two officers of the ninth rank, deputed by -the chiefs of the provincial government, had arrived about noon, and -had sent them to ascertain where the ship was from, and what was the -object in coming. They were answered that she was a ship of war, and -sent by the President of the United States of America, and that she -brought a special envoy, bearing a letter to the king of Cochin-China. -They were told, also, that the envoy wished to repair speedily to the -capital, and intended to send a letter himself to announce his arrival. -They requested a written paper to enable them to report to their -superiors. The following paper was therefore given them, in Chinese and -English. After receiving it they returned to the shore:-- - -"This is a ship of war of the United States of America. This ship is -called the Peacock. The captain's name is David Geisinger. This ship -has been sent here by the president of the United States, he wishing to -form a treaty of friendly intercourse with the king of Cochin China. - -"There is on board the ship a special envoy, Edmund Roberts, bearing a -letter from the president of the United States, which he is to present -personally to the king of Cochin-China. The number of persons on board, -including both officers and men, is one hundred and sixty-six. - -"The ship at first intended going into Tonquin bay, but not being able -on account of the current, she came here. - -"January sixth, 1833." - -Before they left, inquiries were made respecting provisions, and they -were told, that it was desirable they should tell the people to bring -things off to the ship to sell. They replied that the market was open -to go and purchase any thing. On this occasion, as well as yesterday, -no restriction was imposed on our visiting the shore, although to -prevent offence being taken, they were informed that we should do so. - -_January seventh._ This morning, the same party as yesterday came -off again, with the addition of the two deputies from the seat of -government, and their retinue, consisting of umbrella-bearers, -trumpeters, and sword-bearers. The two deputies appeared anxious -to make as much as possible of themselves. They ran over various -questions of the same nature as those put by their precursors; which -having been briefly answered, they were told that the envoy was then -preparing a despatch for the king, and that in about an hour, it would -be taken on shore by a naval officer; when they must be prepared to -receive and forward it immediately to the capital of the province, or -wherever else it might be necessary for them to send it, in the first -instance. They then entered upon a number of impertinent queries, -such as, whether there were any presents for the king; what were the -contents of the letter to him; asking to see a copy of the envoy's -despatch to the capital, and the envoy and captain's commissions. -In all these inquiries they were immediately checked, and with some -difficulty, brought to answer the questions, whether they were willing -to receive and forward the despatch or not. Having answered in the -affirmative, they were told that was satisfactory--that the despatch -was being completed--that in the meanwhile they should return and make -preparations to receive the officer who bore it. - -The subject of provisions and particularly _water_, was again -introduced, but nothing satisfactory was elicited in reply; the market, -they said, was open. - -A little after noon, the despatch was carried on shore by Lieutenant -Brent. It was a letter in the form of a Chinese memorial, from the -envoy to the king of Cochin-China, and was written both in Chinese and -English. The following is a copy:-- - - "To his majesty, the king of Cochin-China:-- - - "The undersigned, Edmund Roberts, has the honour to inform your - majesty, that Andrew Jackson, president of the United States of - America, being desirous of opening a friendly intercourse with the - king of Cochin-China, has despatched the United States' ship-of-war - Peacock, commanded by Captain David Geisinger, to your majesty's - dominions. The president of the United States of America has - despatched the undersigned, his special envoy, to your majesty's - court, intrusting him with a letter to your majesty, and has - clothed him with full power to treat with your majesty, for the - important objects which the president of the United States has in - view. He therefore requests that your majesty will grant him an - interview, with the least possible loss of time. - - It was the intention of the commander of the said United States' - ship-of-war, to have entered the bay of Turan; but having been - driven from thence, after repeated attempts, by adverse winds and - currents, he has been compelled at length to enter this port. As - contrary winds and currents now prevail, it is rendered impossible - for the envoy to proceed to Turan bay. The undersigned must, - therefore, await your Majesty's answer here. - - Dated on board the United States' ship Peacock, in Vung-lam roads, - province of Fooyan, Cochin-China, the seventh day of January, A. D. - 1833, the fifty-seventh year of Independence. - - (Signed) EDMUND ROBERTS - -Not being well acquainted with the Cochin-Chinese forms, the letter was -simply folded up in paper and sealed, being enclosed in vellum, and -addressed-- - - TO HIS MAJESTY, - The King of Cochin-China, &c., &c., &c. - -The two deputies had made considerable parade, opposite the low and -dirty hut, in which they were waiting to receive the despatch. There -was a party of soldiers, with pikes fixed in the sand, at regular -distances; three elephants, with small riding-boxes on their backs; -palanquins, or travelling conveyances, of the kind used in the country; -and several ponies. The village generally has a dirty and miserable -appearance. There are a few neat little brick and wood houses, with -tiled roofs; the rest are all of mat, or the kind of leaf called -_attap_, little better than mere sheds. - -After the despatch had been received by them, with a promise -that it should be forwarded immediately, several questions were -asked respecting the roads, the conveniences for travelling, and -accommodations between this and Hué. Answers were elicited from them -with considerable trouble. One of them, who admitted that he had twice -followed the road, saying that he had forgot all about it. They seemed -desirous to give as bad an idea as possible of the road, as though -they considered it not quite impossible for the ship to go further -north, and thus to relieve them of all trouble and responsibility. The -road, they said, was big with numerous dangers and difficulties; few -stopping-places or accommodations, and those few bad. The conveyance -for baggage, cumbrous, being on men's shoulders. Houses were, however, -numerous on the road, and provisions abundant. - -Their answers respecting provisions and their prices were -unsatisfactory; nor could they be induced to make any arrangements -for the natives to bring things off to the ship. Every thing appears -much dearer here than we expected to find it; even rice and sugar, -which we supposed the chief productions, are not much cultivated in -this neighbourhood. But the country around seems well fitted to afford -abundance of cheap provisions, did commerce hold out any inducement to -produce more than is needed for personal use. They stated the number of -inhabitants in Vung-lam to be about three thousand, and rather less in -each of the other places. - -Before leaving, they were again requested to forward the despatch for -the king speedily; and, at the same time, to report to their superiors -that the envoy would require to be accompanied by a party of at least -fifteen or sixteen persons, and considerable baggage. As the boat -pulled off, they set out, with their retinue of elephants, palanquins, -and ponies; and, as we afterward found, returned at once to their -superiors, at the capital of Foo-yan. - -[Sidenote: CATHOLIC PRIEST.] - -_January eighth._ In the forenoon, a Cochin-Chinese Roman Catholic -priest came off, and held a written conversation, in Latin, with Dr. -Ticknor, of which the following is the substance:-- - -_Priest._ "I am a Catholic priest. The prefect (or governor) has sent -me to inquire whether you are Catholics, and of what nation you are, -whether French or English?" - -_Answer._ "A few of us are Catholics. We are from North America." - -_Priest._ "On what business has your king sent you? On business to our -king, or for the purpose of trade?" - -_Ans._ "Our business is with your king. This is a ship-of-war, (or -king's ship,) not a merchant's ship." - -_Priest._ "Have you any presents?" - -_Ans._ "I cannot answer that question." - -_Priest._ "Do you remain here, or go to our king at Hué?" - -_Ans._ "We shall go to your king, at Hué, when we hear from him." - -_Priest._ "The prefect sent me to learn whether you have business with -our king, what it is, and of what nation you are?" - -_Ans._ "Our business has been communicated to your king, and it is with -him alone. We are from the United States of North America. Have you any -knowledge of North America?" - -_Priest._ "I have no knowledge of North America. I know England, -France, Spain, &c. Will you tell me whether you have a minister -(_nuncium ad visitandum et cognoscendum_) authorized to negociate." - -_Ans._ "We have a minister (_nuncium_) to your king, to be acknowledged -by him." - -_Priest._ "Has your king sent you to our king with presents or -empty-handed?" - -_Ans._ "This is a question which I am not permitted to answer." - -_Priest._ "Is your visit here friendly?" - -_Ans._ "We have come here with the most friendly motives." - -He laughed and said--"A ship-of-war come with friendly motives!" - -Here the conversation ended; he said he would return to the prefect who -sent him. The priest's age was probably about sixty-five. He said he -was educated at the college of Jadent. He was attended by six persons. - -_January ninth._ Going on shore to-day, Mr. Morrison was informed that -two deputies had left, the same evening they received the letter for -the king, and that the old head-man of the town, who first came on -board, was under arrest, for not having been sufficiently alert in -reporting the ship's arrival. In reply to a question concerning the -priest who was on board yesterday, he was informed that he had been -sent by the governor of the province. He was informed, also, that two -or three Chinese junks, from Hainan, visit this port annually. - -Some anxiety, too, was shown, to prevent any one walking beyond the -beach. The market-time was found to commence between two and three -o'clock, and to end about sunset. - -_January fourteenth._ Mr. Morrison went on shore to make inquiries -respecting the trade, &c., of the place, from the principal of the two -Chinese interpreters who had been on board on the sixth and following -days; and who had since been employed as comprador for the ship. On -most points this Chinese appeared ignorant; a little information was, -however, obtained from him. - -[Sidenote: COMMERCE OF VUNG-LAM.] - -He stated that from one to three Chinese junks, annually visit -Vung-lam, about the month of January. They come from Hainan, and -import, almost solely, tea and paper. The former, if of good quality, -sells for two _kwan_ (or about eighty cents) a catty, if inferior, for -about half that price. They take back fah-sang, or ground-nut oil, -manure, and a few small articles. The oil costs about twenty-five kwan -a pecul. Cocoa-nut oil is made, but to a very small amount. It costs -about half a kwan a catty. The coasting-boats trade chiefly in rice, -which they import from the south, Ne-hats-ang. There seem to be from -twenty-five to forty of these boats in Vung-lam and the surrounding -anchorages, and not less than one hundred and fifty or two hundred -fishing-boats. The Chinese trade at Quin-hone, or Kwei-nyun, does not -exceed, he said, four or five junks annually. This is the capital of -the province of Pring-ding, on the north of Fooyan. The capital of -the province of Fooyan is not large. Its name is Tui-yan. It does -not possess much trade, and of that none is maritime, the city being -some miles from the coast. The truth of this statement seems somewhat -doubtful. The provinces of Fooyan and Pring-ding are under the same -dsong-dok or governor. - -_January sixteenth._ This evening the old head-man of Vung-lam made -his appearance again, somewhat altered in his dress, for the better, -and seemingly alarmed at his arrest and punishment, the cause of which -he professed to be ignorant of. He came to request that the paper, on -which the conversation held with him the first day had been written, -might be given up to him, which was accordingly done. - -He then expressed a desire that every one should remain on board, and -that none should go on shore, except to market; speaking, at the same -time, of "vexing and annoying the people." He was asked to explain, -and said the people were alarmed. This, he was told, their behaviour -contradicted; and no molestation had been given to any of them, while -some of the soldiers had been very troublesome to those who went on -shore; even urging and almost forcing Mr. Roberts to return to the -ship, when it was evident he was waiting for the arrival of a boat. - -Two instances of vexatious behaviour were particularly mentioned; to -which he replied, that he was ignorant of the circumstances, but would -inquire respecting them. He then left. - -[Sidenote: DEPUTIES.] - -_January seventeenth._ Increased difficulties having been met with in -the purchase of provisions required for the ship, Mr. Morrison went -on shore in the afternoon, to try the effect of remonstrance with the -old head-man. On reaching the shore, he met a large travelling retinue -coming into the town; and was informed that two deputies, Mandarins, -from Hué, had arrived, and were accompanied by the anchasze or judge -(the under-governor) of the province. He therefore returned to the -ship, whither he was shortly followed by the newly-arrived officers, in -a large galley, rowed by thirty-two soldiers, wearing red, lacquered, -peaked caps, with very ordinary waist clothes. The boat was about sixty -feet in length and twelve in breadth, and built most substantially and -neatly. She was decked with loose plank, a small cabin was erected -amid-ships, covered with palm-leaf. She had neither masts nor sails; -as the stern-post raked more than a whale-boat, she would not readily -answer her helm; a man was therefore placed at each bow with a -broad-bladed paddle, to assist her steering. The men rowed in unison, -standing up and facing the bows. An officer was placed amid-ships, -beating time by striking against two pieces of bamboo, which was -answered by the rowers by a sharp quick cry when their oars touched the -water. A small red square flag was hoisted on an ornamented staff at -the tafferel, and many long spears bristled along the quarters. She had -no projecting stem, a bluff bow, and was sharp aft. - -The deputies were dressed in their robes of ceremony, consisting of -very stout figured or plain satin dresses, of blue, open on the sides -at the bottom, the sleeves very wide; short satin trousers of yellow or -red; black crape turbans, and Chinese shoes; but the cotton underdress -was exceedingly dirty. They all wore long thin beards and mustaches. - -They had quick black eyes, with a lively expressive countenance. Three -most filthy servants attended them, each bearing boxes containing -areca-nuts, betel, chunam, and paper cigars; and they were continually -employed in scratching and picking off vermin. There were three -umbrella-bearers, some soldiers, &c., and two men dressed in long -blue woollen garments, bound with a wide strip of red cloth about -the neck and on the lower part of the sides, and of the same height -in front. They wore a low, red, peaked cap, secured to the head by -means of strings passing from the sides across the forehead and back -of the head, over a black turban--the cap only covered the head to -the top of the ears. These men bore ornamented ivory sticks, with red -silk tassels; but, contrary to the custom of those who had previously -visited us, these officers left the majority of their attendants -behind. The anchasze's office designated him as of the third rank; -while the two deputies, it was afterward ascertained, were of the -fifth rank. They were preceded by two interpreters, one of whom spoke -fluently the corrupt Portuguese dialect of Macao, and also a little -French; the other, having been for some years in a British frigate, had -a pretty good knowledge of the English, so long as the conversation -was confined to what was commonplace. The Portuguese interpreter was a -native Christian, named Miguel, and had acquired a knowledge, both of -speaking and reading, at Macao. The quondam man-of-war's man, was named -Joseph, when in the British service. - -From the nature of the conversation with the two deputies, it was -chiefly kept up in writing, notwithstanding the presence of the two -interpreters. The deputies commenced by stating, that they had been -commissioned by the "minister of commerce and navigation," at Hué, to -come, in company with a provincial officer, to inquire respecting -the ship, and attend to her wants. They wished to know, therefore, -if she stood in need of any thing. They were thanked, and informed -that she was not in want; at the same time, they were requested to -publish permission for the people to bring provisions alongside for -sale. They replied that they would do so. They then inquired to what -country the ship belonged, and produced a large sheet, containing -representations of every known national flag, with the names of the -countries attached, in French and in Chinese characters. The flag of -the United States was pointed out to them, and they were informed that -the ship was a man-of-war. They then put some complimentary questions, -respecting the health of our "king," and of the individuals on board, -&c., which were answered and reciprocated. They had long, they said, -heard of the country, as a good and happy one; and were now rejoiced -at the meeting. They inquired the purpose of our coming, a species of -question which every new comer repeated, as though ignorant of any -previous intercourse with the officers of government. The necessary -answer being given, they were asked respecting the letter from the -envoy to the king, whether it had reached the capital before they left. -They replied it had; but the address on the cover was erroneous; and -therefore the minister of commerce and navigation, (whom they afterward -stated to be the chief minister,) could not venture to hand it to the -king. The country, they said, is not now called Annam, as formerly, -but Wietman, (in Mandarin dialect, Yuènan;) and it is ruled, not by -a king, (wang,) but by an emperor, (hwang-te.)[A] They said, also, -that they had received orders to pay particular attention, and examine -every thing, so as to prevent any farther miscarriage or delay in the -business of the mission. It was explained to them, that the errors -they mentioned did not arise from any disrespect towards the king, -(or emperor,) but from the ignorance of their forms, which want of -intercourse occasioned. They were asked to point out in what manner the -address should be altered, and replied, that it would be preferable to -address a letter to the minister of commerce and navigation, informing -him of the ship's arrival and object of coming; and requesting him -to state the same to the king. They desired to be allowed to see the -letter, in order to prevent the admission of "interdicted words," -that is, expressions which, according to the Chinese punctilios of -writing, are considered inadmissible in official correspondence with -the higher ranks of officers. The letter to the king was then returned, -at the desire of the envoy; and the deputies expressed a wish to know -the contents of the President's letter, as well as the particular and -specific object of the mission. They were informed that the President's -letter was an introduction of the envoy to the king, and that the envoy -was prepared to negotiate respecting the particular objects of this -mission, after his arrival at Hué; but that the one general object, a -treaty of friendly intercourse, was inclusive of all other objects. -This answer was far from being satisfactory, and they repeatedly -returned to the same point, till, finding they could obtain no other -reply, they at length desisted. Being now requested to give an explicit -address for the letter to be written to the minister, they drew a short -letter to the following effect:-- - -[A] Yet the prince, who assumes this latter title, is said to have -received investiture from China, as a tributary king. - -[Sidenote: ENVOY'S LETTER.] - -"Edmund Roberts, envoy from the United States of America, desires to -state to your excellency, that he has received the commands of his -president, deputing him, a petty officer,[A] to bring a public letter -to this effect: 'I have long regarded the fame of your kingdoms with -a desire for friendly intercourse; but I have not previously had an -opportunity for obtaining it. I now entreat earnestly for a friendly -intercourse. Beyond this, there is no other point I desire.' - -[A] This is an expression used by inferior officers, in corresponding -with superiors, when referring to themselves. - -"The said envoy presumes to make this statement, praying you to report -it to the emperor, that having glanced thereat, he may happily allow -him to repair speedily to the capital, and respectfully present the -letter," &c. - -The tone of this letter is extremely objectionable, for, besides the -servileness of particular expressions, the general language is that -of an inferior, (the same idea being often expressed in Chinese by -different words, according to the respective ranks of the writer, -and the person he addresses;) the letter was therefore immediately -rejected; and some of the most offensive expressions, such as "petty -officer" and "earnest entreaty," were pointed out and animadverted on. -With the effrontery of falsehood common among the Chinese, they denied -that the expressions were those of an inferior; but truth does not -form a part of their creed. They were then informed that a letter would -be written by the envoy the next day, and that the expressions should -be respectful, but not mean or servile. They repeated their desire -to see the letter before it was closed, in order to expunge improper -words; and insisted on the necessity of their so doing. They were told, -that they might see the letter; but that no material corrections could -be made at their suggestions, after a fair copy of the letter had been -prepared. After some further conversation and dispute concerning points -of small import, they returned to the shore, at about eleven o'clock -in the afternoon. The old judge had left early in the evening, having -become seasick. - -_January eighteenth._ This morning, the deputies came on board by -appointment, to receive the letter from the envoy to the minister. -They were again accompanied by the judge, who had recovered from his -seasickness. Some refreshments were brought, consisting of a bullock, -a hog, a few poultry, some rice and wine, which were presented to the -envoy and captain, with felicitations on their arrival. - -There being some doubt whether the minister of commerce and navigation -was the chief minister of state, (although they had asserted he was,) -the address of the chief minister was now asked. Before they answered -this question, they wished to see the letter; but this being refused, -they eventually gave an address the same as yesterday, viz.: "To the -minister of commerce and navigation of Cochin-China." This address -was therefore inserted without alteration in the Chinese copy of the -letter. In the English, it was altered to "the minister for foreign -affairs, commerce and navigation;" he being the same minister called by -Mr. Crawford, the "Mandarin of strangers." The letter was then shown -to them, and after a few trivial alterations of single words in the -Chinese translation, which were acceded to, they expressed themselves -satisfied; it was therefore sealed, and delivered to them to forward. -The following is a copy:-- - - "To the minister for foreign affairs, commerce and navigation, - Hué:-- - - "Edmund Roberts, special envoy from the United States of America, - desires to inform your excellency that Andrew Jackson, the - president of the United States, wishing to open a friendly - intercourse with the emperor of Cochin-China, has sent the United - States' ship-of-war Peacock, commanded by Captain David Geisinger, - to his majesty's dominions. - - "And the president of the said United States of America has deputed - me his special envoy to his majesty's court, intrusting me with - a letter to his majesty; and has clothed me with full powers to - treat, on behalf of the president of the United States, for the - important objects which he has in view. I therefore request your - excellency to state this to his majesty; and hope that an interview - will be granted with the least possible loss of time. - - "It was the intention of the commander of the said United States' - ship-of-war to have entered the bay of Turan; but having been - driven from thence, after repeated attempts, by adverse winds - and currents, he has been compelled at length to enter this - port of Vung-lam. As contrary winds and currents still prevail, - it is rendered impossible for him to proceed to Turan bay. The - undersigned therefore awaits his majesty's answer here. - - "Signed and sealed on board the United States' ship Peacock, in - Vung-lam roads, province of Fooyan, Cochin-China, the eighteenth - day of January, A. D., 1833, and of the Independence of the United - States, the fifty-seventh. - - EDMUND ROBERTS." - -A little general conversation ensued, at the conclusion of this -business; they having promised that an answer should be received in -seven or eight days. - -They asked several questions respecting America and Europe, for -instance, what is the meaning of "the fifty-seventh year of -independence?"--"Is England now at peace with France?"--"Has France -recovered peace since the last revolution? and where is the dethroned -king living?"--"Is America at war with any country?" &c. These and -other questions of a similar nature having been answered, they took -their leave, inviting Mr. Roberts, Captain Geisinger, and the other -gentlemen on board, to call on them. They were at the same time invited -to visit the ship whenever they wished. - -_January nineteenth._ Three of the gentlemen went on shore, about noon, -to visit the deputies, taking an excuse for Mr. Roberts and Captain -Geisinger. They were found residing in a neat little brick house, -situated in a small garden of areca and betel plants; the latter being -generally twined round the smooth round trunk of the areca-tree. The -house is the most respectable in the place, and appears to be a private -residence hired for the occasion. The conversation was for the most -part common-place. The judge, they informed us, had returned to the -capital of the province, to attend to the duties of his office. - -A little information was obtained respecting provisions, firewood, -and the nature of their mission to Hué. On the latter subject, they -confirmed for the most part, the account previously obtained from the -two first deputies, and insisted on making a present of some fire wood, -saying they would send a person next day to show where it could be cut. -They were requested to give permission to shoot and ride, but declined -doing either. Shooting, they said, is prohibited by law. During the -conversation, they stated, that there is an American named _Leemesay_ -(probably Lindsay) engaged as a pilot on board one of their ships. -This is an Englishman who finds it more convenient to pass among these -people as American than as English. On leaving, the deputies said -they would call on board the following day. A present of firewood was -brought along-side in the evening. - -_January twentieth._ This morning, another present of firewood came -off, and with it the Portuguese interpreter Miguel. He brought a note -in French, addressed to the younger M. Vanier, whose mother being -Cochin-Chinese, he remains in the country, although his father has -returned to France. M. Vanier is now employed as a pilot, and is about -to go to the straits of Malacca, with a cargo of sugar from Turan. He -will be joined by a vessel from Ahiatrang, laden with rice, and piloted -by Leemesay, (or Lindsay,) the American whom the deputies spoke of -yesterday. Miguel informed us that the Roman Catholics are persecuted -under the present religion; and that the few French, Spanish, and -Italian priests, who are living in the country, are obliged to conceal -themselves. - -Père Jacard, a Frenchman, is confined wholly to the precincts of the -palace, where he is employed in the care of the king's European books, -charts, mathematical instruments, &c. It is difficult for foreigners -(excepting Chinese) to gain admission; legal permission must be -obtained from the chief officers of the provincial government, in that -part of the country, where admission is sought. - -About noon, the deputies made their appearance. The conversation was -short and common-place. They requested to be shown the ship's voyage, -on a chart, and were curious to know why China was visited before -coming to Cochin-China, it being more to the north. They desired to -be shown about the ship, and then took their leave promising to send -their barge (a large boat, manned with thirty oars) to cut and bring -off firewood, the next morning. As they spoke of tigers, they were told -that guns must be taken as a defence; and they at length gave their -consent to shooting. As they left, they particularly invited the envoy -and Captain Geisinger to visit them the following day. Their invitation -was accepted, being desirous of not giving offence. - -_January twenty-first._ The weather being unfavourable, an excuse was -sent, deferring the visit until better weather. - -[Sidenote: YUEN AND LE.] - -_January twenty-third._ Notwithstanding the weather continued -unfavourable and rainy, another visit was received this morning from -the two deputies, whose names were now found to be Yuen and Le. They -asked numerous questions respecting Europe and America, seeming -particularly desirous to know the affairs of England, and the nature -of the United Slates government. In answer to their inquiries about -the President, they were informed that he is elected by the people, -once in four years. They asked also a few questions respecting American -productions, particularly ginseng, of which they knew something; they -repeated their inquiries as to the object of visiting Canton, and -the time spent there, and whether there were any presents from the -president, &c. - -In reply to questions put to them, they stated, that the tribunals -and officers at court, and the titles of their ministers and other -officers, are the same as in China; but they evaded telling the names -of any of the ministers, saying, that they could not remember them all. -They declined some trifles offered to them, on the plea that they dare -not receive any presents. They then repeated their invitation to Mr. -Roberts and Captain Geisinger, to visit them on shore, and promised -assistance in procuring provisions. They urged, that the ports were -already open to trade, and therefore the mission unnecessary. They were -told in reply that the regulations of trade were not known, and the -charges on ships were so high, it was found impossible to trade--that -the mission was not destined to apply to _them_ but to the court; and -that whatever might be the state of the case, speedy measures should -have been taken to enable the mission to proceed to Hué. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - PRESENT OF A FEAST TO THE EMBASSY--DESCRIPTION OF - ARRANGEMENT--DEPUTIES FROM HUÉ--EXTRAORDINARY DEMANDS--REFUSAL - TO FORWARD DESPATCHES TO THE EMPEROR--LETTER OF THE ENVOY TO - THE MINISTER OF COMMERCE--PRESIDENT'S LETTER--UNCONDITIONAL - REQUIREMENTS OF THE DEPUTIES. - - -On this morning, January twenty-fourth, Captain G. and myself visited -the deputies: their residence was somewhat improved, since the previous -visit paid to them; considering the filthy habits of the people, it -was neat and comfortable. Our conversation was short and common-place. -The deputies informed us that they had been to Bengal, a year or two -before, and also to Manila. - -_January twenty-sixth._ One of the officers, who had come from the -capital of the province on our first arrival, appeared again to-day, -accompanied by another whom we had not before seen, and the two -interpreters, bringing complimentary messages to the envoy, and -refreshments, which, they said, were sent by order of the king. They -consisted of a feast, (comprising fifty-one dishes,) two bullocks, four -dogs, five sacks of rice, five jars of native liquor, thirty ducks, -thirty fowls, eggs, and a variety of fruits. - -As it would have given offence, and impeded, if not wholly destroyed -the object of the mission, to have refused the present, it was -immediately accepted with thanks; and the officers, who brought it off, -were informed, that a salute of thirteen guns would be fired in honour -of the king, as the present was said to have come from him. The feast -was brought on the board in handsomely varnished and gilded cases; to -all outward appearance, it was very neat and cleanly; but we could -not divest ourselves of the idea, that it was cooked in the uncleanly -vessels we had seen on shore, and that it had come in contact with -the filthy paws, dirty nails, and heads filled with vermin, which we -had seen on shore: we, therefore, barely tasted of one article, the -confectionary. A complimentary toast was drunk to the emperor, in a -glass of their favourite rice wine. - -The mandarin, who came to present the feast, was dressed in a robe of -ceremony, of very stout, light blue, flowered silk. He was invited to -partake of the feast, but politely excused himself, saying, "I dare -not partake of a feast presented by the emperor." He was therefore -furnished with other refreshments. - -The feast was arranged in the cabin, by a servant sent with it, -assisted by several others: it was served up in China, and consisted of -fifty-one articles, (exclusive of fruits,) arranged in the following -order: At the head was placed an entire tortoise, jellied on the -outside, and filled with rice, &c.; then followed a leg of fresh boiled -pork; two roasted ducks; one roasted fowl; a deep saucer of roasted -pork, cut in square pieces; and three stewed pigeons in a bowl, with -sauce. The preceding seven articles were arranged from the head to -the foot of the table, in the centre, and were flanked with seventeen -bowls, each containing a different article. One contained stewed eels, -whether of the hedge or ditch, I am not able to determine; another was -filled with stewed mullet. One had within it a piece of stewed fish, -with sauce; a fourth held fish pickle, or the essence of balachang, -emitting a most unsavoury smell. Seven of the bowls were covered with -yellow paper, and ten with red: they contained chow-chow, or mixed -meats, deers' sinews--which latter were particularly recommended. - -The name and contents of each article were inscribed in Chinese -characters, on its cover. The remaining portion of the dishes, -consisted of two bowls of boiled ducks' eggs, and one of fowls; one of -boiled crabs; three of red, yellow, and white rice; two of sausages; -three of rice pilau; one of stewed fowl; one of shrimps; one of bitter -cucumbers; two of sponge-cake; and the rest were forced-meat pasties -and confectionary. They were cooked with ground-nut oil, or the fat -of fresh pork; and were, generally, very insipid, and totally without -seasoning. - -These refreshments had been sent in consequence of the receipt, at Hué, -of the envoy's letter to the minister, and the officers said that a -reply might be expected in two or three days, at farthest. - -In the afternoon, the deputies' barge came alongside, and the -interpreters said there were two mandarins on board: but, seeing that -the ship rolled very much, they would defer the visit until the next -morning. - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL FROM HUÉ.] - -This morning, January the twenty-seventh, the two interpreters -appeared, to say, that two officers had arrived from Hué, but that -the vessel was so unsteady they were afraid to come on board, lest -seasickness should prevent them from fulfilling, to the full extent, -their mission. They, therefore, requested Mr. Roberts to visit, and to -converse with them on shore. - -This attempt to make the envoy wait on them, could not, they were told, -be complied with; but Mr. Morrison would go on shore, if they desired -it, to ascertain their business. - -Mr. M. accordingly went on shore, immediately after breakfast, and -found the two former deputies, accompanied by two others, said to be of -higher rank, who were far less prepossessing in their appearance, and -much ruder in their manners. - -The following conversation took place with them:-- - -_Mr. M._ "Is there any letter from Hué?" - -_Deputies._ "No; we two officers have been deputed by the minister to -come here." - -_Mr. M._ "Will there be any letter?" - -_Dep._ "No; we are sent in place of a letter." - -_Mr. M._ "What message do you bring from Hué?" - -_Dep._ "The minister of commerce and navigation has received the letter -sent by the envoy; the contents being respectful and reasonable, he -gave directions to the local officers to prepare a feast for the -envoy. With regard to shooting, although it is contrary to the laws, -permission is granted, in the present instance, for a few to shoot at a -time, in consideration that you know how to regard the laws." - -_Mr. M._ "Shooting is not the business on which the envoy has come -here. That is a trivial matter, not worth mentioning again. The envoy -has come on important national business, with a letter for the emperor: -he wishes to know what message you have from the emperor." - -_Dep._ "Though the shooting is a trivial matter, we have mentioned -it, because you formerly made a request on the subject. As to the -business of the letter, we require to converse respecting it with the -official gentlemen:" meaning the envoy and those who they supposed were -associated with him; for the Cochin-Chinese, like the Chinese, seldom -send officers singly on any special business. - -_Mr. M._ "It would be contrary to all etiquette, for the envoy to come -on shore, to converse with you on this subject. If you have any thing -to communicate, tell it to me, or (which would be better) go on board -and tell it." - -_Dep._ "We like your regard for etiquette, and have now come with the -wish to conduct your business according to etiquette, and to conclude -it speedily. Yesterday we were prevented going on board by the wind: as -you have now come, we will enter on the business with you at once. - -"The minister of commerce and navigation desires us to communicate -to the envoy the necessity of his having a copy and a translation of -the president's letter to lay before the emperor; also to state, that -without full and complete information, the minister dare not report -to his majesty. Having come so great a distance, you are doubtless -anxious for the speedy conclusion of the business of your mission. It -is on this account we have been sent; for our laws are strict, and -demand implicit obedience: therefore, we are directed to show you how -to conform to them. What ought now to be done, is to give a copy and -translation of the President's letter. - -"Further, in the letter from the envoy, mention is made of the -important objects which the President has in view. Without knowing what -these important objects are, the minister can make no report to the -emperor. Were he to do so, and the emperor should make any particular -inquiries of him, respecting the mission, he would be unable to reply. -If you will give a copy of the letter, and information with regard to -these objects, four or five days will be sufficient to come to some -determination respecting your mission." - -_Mr. M._ "Letters between the rulers of nations ought not to be -submitted to the inspection of their ministers and people, but must -first be delivered to the rulers to whom they are addressed. Of the -President's letter, there is both an original and a translation; which -will be delivered, together, to the emperor, after the envoy has -reached the capital." - -_Dep._ "If you will allow us to see a copy of the translation, your -business may then be advanced. - -"In the intercourse of China with France, England, &c., copies of their -letters must first be shown to the minister or his deputies, before -they can make any report to the emperor. Otherwise, being ignorant of -the contents of the letter, they dare not report." - -_Mr. M._ "We know not the etiquette of China, but that of Europe, -and all the nations of the west. Letters are first presented to the -rulers, to whom they are addressed. Copies are not first shown to their -ministers." - -_Dep._ "France and England have sent envoys here, who did not refuse to -show copies of the letters which they brought." - -_Mr. M._ "I have heard that the English envoy, who complied with this -demand, had no audience." - -_Dep._ "The governor-general (Ta-ping-t'how, great military headman) -of Bengal, sent an envoy here, with a letter to the minister, and he -concluded the business satisfactorily. Would we treat the English well -and you ill?" - -_Mr. M._ "You are, indeed, putting difficulties in the way. It has -never been customary with us to show copies of letters previously to -presenting the originals." - -_Dep._ "We are all the servants of our respective rulers, and we -desire, equally with you, to bring your business to a satisfactory -conclusion. We request you to think what object we can have in raising -difficulties?" - -[Sidenote: DIPLOMATIC DELAYS.] - -Not being able to come to any conclusion on this point, they were asked -if they had any thing else to say, when they pointed to what they had -before written, respecting the important objects which the President -had in view. They then wrote again: "You should return to the ship, and -get the directions of the envoy and captain, on these two important -points, viz.:-- - -"1st. To show a copy of the President's letter. - -"2d. To state clearly the particular objects of the mission. In the -evening come again, and inform us of the result." - -"Our country wishes to receive and treat you in a liberal manner. -France and England did not refuse to show copies of their letters. -Why do you? We have been sent by the minister with these orders, and -wish you to act in accordance with the advice we have now given. Your -business will then be soon finished, which will afford the minister -pleasure also." - -_Mr. M._ "If these are the orders you have received, I fear we must -soon leave." - -_Dep._ "Why do you say so? Our endeavour is to bring your business to a -speedy conclusion. All envoys must desire to bring their business to a -satisfactory conclusion. We wish to aid you in doing so. Of what use is -it to talk of returning? What object will be effected if you do so?" - -_Mr. M._ "If such points are insisted upon, we must consider that the -emperor desires no intercourse with our country; in which case there is -nothing left for us but to return." - -This view of the matter was strongly objected to by the deputies, whom -Mr. Morrison left with an understanding that he would probably visit -them again in the afternoon. - -In the afternoon, accordingly, Mr. Morrison, having received farther -instructions, went on shore and recommenced the conversation, saying:-- - -"I have now received directions from the envoy to tell you, that what -you insisted upon this morning, cannot be complied with; for it would -be disallowed by our government. The letter is sealed, and cannot now -be opened; but must either be carried by the envoy to the capital, or -must be carried back, and the cause stated to the President." - -The deputies now inquired if there were _really_ a translation of the -President's letter, in a manner which implied distrust and unbelief -of what they had been told. Being assured that a translation _really_ -existed, they returned to their former point, desiring a copy--not, -however, of the translation, but of the general scope of it. Compliance -with this request was refused, unless they could show directions to -that effect from the emperor. - -_Dep._ "If there is, indeed, a Chinese translation, it is requisite to -show a copy of it, before a report can be made to, or an order received -from, the emperor. Being foreigners, how can you refuse to have your -business conducted by us, who are the appointed deputies? or how can -you insist on going at once to the capital to present the letter -personally?" - -_Mr. M._ "Without seeing an order from the emperor, the letter cannot -be shown to any one; nor can the envoy stay here much longer. In a few -days, either he must repair to the capital, or the ship must leave this -port and go to sea. Two of you have been already informed of this, -when you received the envoy's letter to the minister. As we have been -detained here nearly a month, without any thing having been done, it is -now repeated to you all." - -_Dep._ "This delay is owing to your own mismanagement, in not having -given a translation of the President's letter, stating the objects -of the mission. It is in consequence of this mismanagement, that the -minister has been unable to state your arrival and object to the -emperor. Hence the delay, which has in no way arisen from any want -of kind reception on the minister's part, or of attention on ours. -Our laws are very strict, and the forms required by our etiquette, -numerous. Were we to offend against either, the offence would not be -considered slight. We have now been sent to see that every thing be -done according to etiquette and law, and this requisition must, indeed, -be acceded to, before you can obtain permission to proceed to Hué." - -_Mr. M._ "A letter between the sovereigns of two nations, cannot be -carelessly and inconsiderately shown to any or every one. As to the -letter and the objects of the mission, should the envoy go to Hué, -the former can then be presented, and the negotiation of the business -entered upon. But, should the envoy not go to Hué, it will be needless -to speak of either." - -_Dep._ "We, the officers specially deputed by the minister alone, -require to see the letter. How can it be careless or inconsiderate -to show it to us? If every thing is left unexplained, then, although -you should go to the capital, the minister would still have to depute -officers to obtain a clear knowledge of your business, before he could -make any report to the emperor!" - -_Mr. M._ "Was the envoy's letter to the minister received?" - -_Dep._ "It was; but the expression, 'important objects,' was not -explained, nor was there a translation of the President's letter; -hence, he could not venture to make any report. He has, therefore, sent -us to repeat these inquiries; that, after he has learned the result -from us, he may report to the emperor." - -_Mr. M._ "If the envoy were at the capital, he would then make all -requisite explanations to the minister. If he cannot go to the capital -without making such explanations to you, the ship will have to go to -sea. - -"Is the minister of commerce the same as the minister of elephants? - -"If he received the letter, why is there no written answer from him?" - -_Dep._ "The minister of commerce is a great minister, who directs the -affairs of all foreign vessels that come here. In the letter sent to -him, there was much that was not explained. Therefore, we have been -sent to arrange and explain every thing; after which he will be able to -report. Of what use would it be to give any previous written reply?" - -_Mr. M._ "You had better make a speedy report of to-day's conversation; -for if the envoy does not shortly obtain leave to go to Hué, he will be -necessitated to leave. The envoy is not likely to retract what he says." - -_Dep._ "Your ship has crossed a wide sea to bring an envoy from your -country; and the minister has acted towards you according to his -majesty's gracious wishes of tenderness towards foreigners. He wishes -to conclude your business speedily and satisfactorily for you; but you -also must act according to our laws and etiquette: then you will not -fail in your object. Return, and tell the two gentlemen (meaning Mr. R. -and Capt. G.) that they may think maturely on the subject; to-morrow we -will visit the ship." - -_Mr. M._ "The subject has been already fully thought on; I request you -to think it over once more." - -They then again insisted on the necessity of every thing being fully -explained, before another step could be taken; and, addressing Mr. -Morrison personally, they said: "As you have read Chinese literature, -you are acquainted with our forms of etiquette, and what is right -and proper. Explain these to the envoy, that he may follow them; the -success of the mission will then be owing to your efforts; whereas, by -refusing to do so, the blame of failure will rest entirely on you." - -To this absurd language no reply was returned. They were told, that the -envoy came with a desire to open a friendly intercourse, and would be -sorry to return without having effected that object: but that he would -not act contrary to the rules of his own country; and that he thought, -if the emperor were informed of the circumstances, he would not desire -any previous copy of the letter to be given. The conversation then -ended, the deputies refusing to answer questions on any other subjects. - -_January twenty-eighth._ This morning, early, the four deputies came -on board, as they had yesterday stated their intention of doing. The -conversation was commenced by asking the object of their visit, as -they had yesterday been told, that the envoy could not give up the -President's letter, nor enter into any further particulars respecting -the objects of the mission. They were at the same time told not to -speak of "two gentlemen," as the business of the mission rested wholly -with the envoy. - -_Dep._ "The letter which the envoy sent to the minister, spoke of -very important objects, but did not explain what those objects were; -therefore, the minister being unable to speak to the emperor, has sent -us to inquire particularly; that when we have informed him of the -objects, he may make his report, and conclude the business of your -mission speedily." - -_The Envoy._ "Two of your number have already asked repeated questions -on this subject, and have been as often told, that the subject cannot -be treated of before the mission proceeds to Hué. As this has been -often told you, why do you now delay the mission with repetitions of -the same questions? The minister is fully aware that my mission is -for the purpose of opening a friendly intercourse between the two -countries. Why, then, does he not make report thereof to the emperor? -and why is there no order from the emperor, either permitting me to go -to Hué, or directing my return? This line of conduct certainly appears -uncivil; I must, therefore, conclude that the emperor is unwilling to -admit our intercourse. If you have any thing further to speak of, say -it; but do not go over yesterday's conversation again." - -_Dep._ "Our country wishes to receive and treat you with liberality; -but there is an appearance of secrecy in the letter to the minister, -which requires explanation. Our conduct is in accordance with true -politeness. How say you we are uncivil?" - -_Envoy._ "If, when the ship arrived, the minister of commerce had -immediately reported to the emperor the arrival of a United States' -vessel, with a special envoy on board, bearing a letter from the -President to the emperor, and had requested leave for the mission to -proceed forthwith to the capital, such conduct would have been open, -polite, and becoming. But to profess that he dare not report to the -emperor, and detain the mission here for a long period, refusing to -let it proceed at once to the capital, is, indeed, extremely rude." - -_Dep._ "Hitherto all envoys bringing letters here, from whatever -country, have stated their contents and the objects of their mission, -through officers deputed, like us, to receive such information. This -has always been necessary before a report could be made. We have -heard of you as a just, polite, and well-demeaned nation; and the -minister, when he heard of your arrival, was much pleased, and desirous -of bringing your business to a satisfactory conclusion, in order to -establish a friendly intercourse with you. [They were here told that -the minister was required to make no such request.] What answer would -he be able to give, should the emperor inquire about particulars?" - -Here they were pointed to Mr. Crawford's account of his mission to -Siam and Cochin-China, page 269; where he received what amounted -to a reprimand, for having shown to the governor of Saigon the -governor-general's letter, when the minister of elephants told him: "It -is his majesty's wish, when the governor-general writes again, that -the letter may be sealed, for this is the custom of Cochin-China." And -again, "It is not agreeable to the customs of the country, that any -should inspect letters addressed to his majesty, before they reach his -own presence." - -They did not appear, or choose not to appear, acquainted with the -circumstances of Mr. Crawford's mission, and did not want, they said, -the original letter, but a translation. - -_Envoy._ "If I return, and report to the President that, when I came -here to propose a friendly intercourse between our countries, the -ministers of Cochin-China refused to report my arrival to the emperor; -took upon themselves to treat me rudely, and, after having detained -me a whole month, forced me to leave, without obtaining admission to -the capital; when this is told, what, think you, will be the world's -opinion of your country? Its opinion will be, that you are an extremely -rude nation. If permission be not soon given for me to proceed to the -capital, I shall be necessitated to leave; for within the present year -I have to go to eight or nine other places." - -The latter part of this reply was intended to remove an error they -seemed to have fallen into, in supposing that the ship had come from -the United States, solely to negotiate a treaty with Cochin-China. - -_Dep._ "Every thing in our country must be done according to etiquette. -Hitherto all countries, whether far or near, have paid regard to this -rule. The etiquette to be observed by ministers of government, is to -report no business, until they have obtained complete knowledge of it. -We have been desirous to effect for you the objects of your mission, -but you have been obstinate in your determinations. Pray, what would -you think of an envoy from any other country coming here, and refusing -to have any thing done through the medium of officers deputed, like us, -for the purpose of arranging the business of his mission, and insisting -on immediate admission to the emperor's presence? If the circumstances -be told to all the world, the right and wrong will then be known. Our -country has always received other nations liberally, without deriving -any advantage from them. - -"Before," they continued, "you said there was no translation of the -President's letter; now you say there is:--before, you said the vessel -was going to no other place; now you say she is going to nine other -places. What are we to understand by this?" - -As not the slightest hint had been given to favour either of these -assertions, they were immediately contradicted. They had never been -told, either that the President's letter was not translated, or that -the envoy had business in Cochin-China alone. - -They now stated they did not want the letter opened; they only -required to know what was desired; whether land to build factories on, -privileges of trade, or what? - -_Envoy._ "No favours or privileges are asked for. Our government does -not build factories. Friendly intercourse alone is desired." - -_Dep._ "Is commerce desired?" - -_Envoy._ "That is necessarily included in friendly intercourse between -the two countries; which will be for the advantage, not of one, but of -both." - -_Dep._ "You have now come over an extensive ocean as an envoy. The -minister has acted according to the emperor's gracious wishes of -tenderness towards foreigners. He wishes to conclude your affairs -happily and satisfactorily; but you persist and determine, of your own -accord, to return unsuccessful. Say not that you were not received -well and liberally. The fault lies with you!" - -_Envoy._ "As you refuse our intercourse, and I cannot obtain permission -to go to Hué, I must leave shortly. The fault lies not with me, but in -the minister's uncivil treatment. On my return, I shall have to report, -that the minister had the presumption to take the business of the -mission into his own hands, without making any report to the emperor. -How call you such conduct '_liberal treatment_?'" - -_Dep._ "We too have been sent to bring the business of your mission to -a determinate point; but your obstinacy leaves us at a loss what to do. -We will return in a day or two to the capital, and make a report of the -circumstances." - -This was said by the two who had arrived on the twenty-sixth. - -In reply, they were told that the envoy could have nothing to do with -their movements; that when quite ready he would leave; but that, when -he did so, he would write a protest against the manner in which he had -been treated, and would send a copy of such protest to the emperor, and -copies to other princes also. At first, not seeming to understand what -was meant, they desired that it should be sent to the minister instead -of the emperor; but this, they were told, was out of the question. - -_January twenty-ninth._ Some gentlemen who had been on shore in the -course of yesterday, having been asked when the ship would sail, Mr. -Morrison visited the deputies this morning, with the following written -communication:-- - - "I hear that you inquired last evening when our ship would sail. I - am directed by the envoy to tell you, that if, within six days, the - imperial permission be not received for the mission to go to Hué, - the vessel will then sail. - - "The envoy does not act inconsiderately, as deeming this an affair - of a trivial nature: but he is necessitated to leave, because the - business confided to him, in other places, will not admit of a long - delay. - - "Nor does he consider it a thing of small import, that the minister - of commerce, &c., refuses to report his arrival to the emperor, or - to afford him the means of presenting the letter." - -In reply, the two deputies who had first arrived, (for the other two, -though not yet on their way for Hué, did not appear,) returned to their -former position, that they were desirous of bringing the business to -an amicable and satisfactory conclusion, but were prevented by the -obstinacy of the envoy. If a translation of the President's letter, and -a complete statement of the objects of the mission, were delivered to -them, then some conclusion might be come to. - -They were told it was useless talking thus, as the determination of -the envoy had already been communicated to them. Should the envoy go -to Hué, on his arrival there, the minister might receive a copy of the -President's letter, and what explanations he might desire as to the -objects of the mission. Similar conversation was kept up for a few -minutes, during which the deputies received a written paper from the -other two, who were within. They then wrote, that "the President, being -elected and promoted by the people, and not possessing the actual title -of king, it behooved him to write in a manner properly decorous and -respectful; on which account it was requisite for the translation to be -examined, in order to expunge improper words." - -In reply to this insulting language, they were told that the President -was inferior to no king or emperor, and were then left. - -[Sidenote: DEPUTIES' FALSEHOODS.] - -In consequence of the insult thus offered to the President, Mr. -Morrison again went on shore in the afternoon, in company with Mr. -Fowler, for the purpose either of obtaining an apology, or of handing -the deputies, for the information of the minister, a protest from the -envoy against the adoption of such language. They now withdrew what -they had said in the morning; and, having previously torn up the paper -on which they had written, they denied that they had said what was -attributed to them. "The other day," said they, "you told us that your -President is elected by the people; we asked, therefore, whether he -was really a king or not: and letters, we said, should be humble and -decorous." - -Had there been any doubt (which there was not) of the real sense of -what they said in the morning, the total incoherency of what they -now advanced would afford strong presumption against its truth; for -who could write in one sentence, the question, "Whether or not the -President is a real king;" and the assertion that "letters should be -humble and decorous," with other than the insulting views attributed -to them in the morning? But, as they denied having spoken by command -of their master the minister, and wholly disclaimed any intention of -insult, the apology was thought sufficient, and the envoy's protest was -not handed to them. They were again told that, though the President -did not bear the title of king, yet he was equal to any king or -emperor, and was so acknowledged by all with whom the United States had -intercourse. - -This point being set to rest, a list of the refreshments, which had -been received from them at different times, was handed to them, with -a request that they would say whether it was correct or not. They -were then told, that if the business of the mission were to end -unsuccessfully, the refreshments they had sent could not be accepted as -presents, but must be paid for. This they strenuously resisted, saying, -repeatedly, that the things were of small value. "Nothing," they were -answered, "of the smallest value, could be accepted, if the mission -ended without going to Hué. Should the mission proceed thither, they -would be accepted as tokens of a friendly disposition between the two -countries; but otherwise, no friendly intercourse being established, -every thing must be paid for." - -As the feast, when brought on board, had been represented as coming -from the emperor, it was now asked how that could be the case, since -the emperor was not yet apprized of the vessel's arrival? The deputies -replied, that it was customary to present such refreshments to foreign -vessels on their arrival; therefore it was considered as coming from -the emperor, although prepared by the provincial officers, at the -direction of the minister. - -They were then asked what the minister's object was in thus delaying -the business of the mission, and refusing to report to the emperor. -They replied, as usual, that their wish was to expedite, not to retard -the business of the mission; which was hindered, they said, only by the -envoy's refusal to act according to their advice. It was argued, that -if any one had business with them, he would not stay to explain his -business to their servants, but would require to speak with themselves -at once. Arguments, however, proved useless. They either could or would -not comprehend them. The two deputies, who were returning to Hué, had -not left, but were to start the same evening. - -[Sidenote: ENVOY'S LETTER.] - -_January thirtieth._ The deputies appearing to act under specific -orders, from which they could not deviate in the least, the envoy now -addressed a letter to the minister of commerce, specifying the objects -of the mission, and enclosing a copy of the President's letter, with a -Chinese translation of it. The following are copies of the documents:-- - - _Letter from Edmund Roberts, Esq., special envoy from the United - States of America, to the Cochin-Chinese minister of foreign - affairs, commerce, &c._:-- - - "Edmund Roberts, special envoy from the United States of America, - desires to inform your excellency, that he wrote, on the eighteenth - of the present month, acquainting your excellency with the wish - entertained by the President of the United States to open a - friendly intercourse with the emperor of Cochin-China; and with - his consequent appointment of myself to be the bearer of a letter - which I am to present to his majesty; having, at the same time, - full powers to treat, on behalf of the President, for the important - objects which he has in view. - - "I have now the pleasure to enclose copies of the original, and a - translation in Chinese, of the President's letter to the emperor, - for your excellency's inspection. The important objects of the - President, mentioned in the letter, are solely to ascertain, if the - emperor is willing to admit the American commercial intercourse on - the same terms as those of the most favoured nations; or on what - conditions he will admit it, and into what ports. No exclusive - privileges are asked for. And the envoy is not charged with any - other matter or thing, excepting to establish a suitable commercial - treaty between the two nations. These are the only objects of the - mission. - - "Had your excellency sent a written answer, requesting the - above information, the envoy would have given these particulars - previously; but certain persons inquired the object of the vessel's - coming, and asked for a copy of the President's letter, to whom - this information could not be given, as they could show no document - or authority from your excellency. - - "The envoy has already been here some time, and will be unable to - delay much longer. He therefore requests your excellency to provide - the means for himself, and others who are to accompany him, to - proceed to Hué speedily. For unless, within seven days, permission - be received, from the emperor, to proceed thither at once, the - vessel must go to sea. - - "Signed and sealed on board the U. S. ship-of-war Peacock, in the - roadstead of Vung-lam, in the province of Fooyan, this thirtieth - day of January, A. D., 1833, and of independence, the fifty-seventh. - - (Signed,) - "EDMUND ROBERTS." - - "Andrew Jackson, President of the United States of America, to - his majesty the emperor of Cochin-China:-- - - "Great and good friend-- - - "This will be delivered to your majesty by Edmund Roberts, a - respectable citizen of these United States, who has been appointed - special agent, on the part of this government, to transact - important business with your majesty. I pray your majesty to - protect him in the exercise of the duties which are thus confided - to him, and to treat him with kindness and confidence; placing - entire reliance upon what he shall say to you in our behalf, - especially when he shall repeat the assurances of our perfect amity - and good will towards your majesty. I pray God to have you, great - and good friend, under his safe and holy keeping. - - "Written at the city of Washington, the twentieth day of January, - A. D. 1833, and in the fifty-sixth year of independence. - - "Your good and faithful friend, - - (Signed) - "ANDREW JACKSON." - - "By the President. - - (Signed) - "EDWARD LIVINGSTON, Sec'ry of State." - - "The foregoing is a true copy of the original now in my possession. - - (Signed) - "EDMUND ROBERTS." - -[Sidenote: INCREASING DEMANDS.] - -These documents being completed, the packet was sealed up, and taken on -shore by Mr. Morrison; but now a new and unexpected difficulty arose. -The letter (which, they were told, though addressed to the minister, -was intended to be seen by the emperor) must be opened, submitted to -their inspection, and corrected entirely according to their taste, ere -they would receive or forward it. - -This unheard-of and arrogant requisition was strongly objected to. -"What is the cause," they were asked, "of such behaviour? Here are -four officers of whose names and rank we are equally ignorant. (For -their rank they had evaded telling, when asked, and their names, -though told by two of them, were not suffered to be written down.) -These officers require full information, respecting the objects of -our mission, and refuse to forward our official letters. In no other -country, we have been to, is an envoy thus treated." - -With the deputies, however, nothing that could be said was of any -use. They acted apparently on specific and peremptory orders, and -evinced a total disregard for every thing but a complete concession -to all their demands. On the present occasion they refused to write -an answer to what was said to them. Through the interpreter they -repeated the same language they had before so often used, respecting -their own and the minister's anxiety to conclude the business of the -mission satisfactorily; the necessity of conforming to the customs and -etiquette of the country, and the obstinacy of the envoy, &c. - -"Were a letter," they were asked, "sent to you, would a copy be first -shown to your servants?" - -"No," they replied, "but the case is not parallel. Your envoy is like -one standing at the door of a house." - -"Admitting that, suppose me coming to the door of your house, on -business with you, should I have to inform your servants what my -business was before I could enter?" - -The quick little interpreter, Miguel, said that this was agreeable to -reason, a point which the deputies were less ready to admit. They could -not allow the comparison. "Such," said they, "are our laws. They must -be implicitly obeyed." - -"Had there been an imperial order," it was resumed, "or a written -answer from the minister, then the business of the mission might be -communicated to you; but how can it be communicated to persons of -whose names and rank we are ignorant? The objects of the mission have, -therefore, been stated in the letter, which it will be well for you to -forward. This obstinacy in requiring to know our objects is insulting." - -Mr. Morrison was now pressed to return to the ship, to receive the -envoy's permission for them to see the contents of the packet, and -correct the phraseology of the letters. Finding them determined not -to receive it as it was, he accordingly left, after having repeated -the necessity of paying for their presents, should their continual -opposition cause the failure of the mission. They appeared personally -desirous of conciliation, though their national vanity and prejudices -would not suffer them to see any thing absurd or improper in the -conduct which their orders obliged them to adopt. - -In the evening Mr. Morrison again went on shore, with Chinese copies of -the President's letter to the emperor, and the envoy's letter to the -minister. Having required that the crowd of attendants, who usually -stood round, listening to the conversation, should be dismissed, the -envoy's letter was shown to the deputies. They immediately proceeded -to criticise every word and sentence, making several alterations -and corrections, which, though of small importance, and generally -unobjectionable, occupied considerable time. During the conversation, -which the remarks, made on various parts of the letter, occasioned, -the interpreter Miguel, apparently of his own accord, though probably -prompted by his employers, remarked, that the President was equal to -a _king_; but that the emperor was superior to a king. The natural -inference, that the emperor of Cochin-China is superior to the -President of the United States, he left to be deduced by others. The -remark arose from an endeavour, on the part of the deputies, to have -the President's title placed lower than that of the emperor; not, they -would have it believed, from an idea of inequality, but on account of -the humbler style, which they insisted, the writing party must adopt -in speaking of themselves. The envoy, it was answered, had taken -that station, which courtesy to the person he addressed, required; -but to place the President lower than the emperor, was a point of a -different nature--a point which courtesy did not require, and which, -the President and emperor being in every respect equal in rank, could -never be complied with. Having at length concluded with the letter to -the minister, every correction which could be considered derogatory or -mean having been rejected, the deputies now desired to see a copy of -the President's letter. This was for some time objected to; and the -impropriety of the demand, as well as the unpleasantness of compliance -pointed out. They were resolved, however, to see it, and at length it -was shown to them; but as they were proceeding to make alterations in -it also, they were stopped, and told that the President's letter could -not be altered. Without making alterations in it, they insisted that -the letter could not be forwarded; nor would they consent to receive -it at all, unless, after seeing every correction made in both letters -that they wished, the packet should be sealed before their eyes. They -were told this want of confidence was offensive, and required a similar -discredit of their authority, as their names and rank were unknown, and -they had shown no credentials. They thereupon stated their names and -rank, said they had no credentials; and argued that they too had been -shown no credentials by the envoy. The envoy, it was replied, would -show his powers to the proper individuals in fit time and place. - -They still insisted on correcting the President's letter. Mr. Morrison -therefore returned, about nine, P. M., leaving the sealed package, -addressed to the minister, in charge of the deputies. - -[Sidenote: REMONSTRANCE.] - -_January thirty-first._ Mr. Morrison, having made a copy of the envoy's -letter to the minister, with the corrections which were last night -agreed to, as being immaterial, repaired on shore, in the forenoon, -with authority to make such trivial alterations, in the translation -of the President's letter, as the deputies might desire. He first -inquired if the packet that was left on shore had been sent to the -minister; and was answered, that, not being corrected, it could not be -forwarded. The deputies then repeated their unchanging expressions of -a desire, on the part of the minister who had sent them, to arrange -matters speedily, and on a friendly footing. Such conversation being -little likely to lead to any good result, it was avoided; and they were -requested, as they would not forward the packet, to return it. This -was accordingly done; and the envelope being removed, the translation -of the President's letter was laid before them, accompanied with a -remonstrance against their conduct, in insisting that it should be -altered before they would forward it. About two hours were now spent in -objecting to particular words and sentences, either as being improper -and contrary to etiquette, or as being unintelligible. They also made -particular inquiries respecting the original letter, whether it was -sealed or not, and whether the Chinese translation was signed by the -President. They put some questions, also, respecting the signature -of the Secretary of State, what was his rank, &c.; and asked if the -original letter was kept on board; and if the one shown to them was -only a copy. When told, "of course," they said, "that is right." - -Among other points, they professed not to understand the expression, -"Great and good friend;" and they interpreted it according to their -preconceived ideas, as a "request for a friendly intercourse." -The expression was explained to them, and shown to be perfectly -intelligible, (for it was only their astonishment at such familiar -language, that prevented their understanding it.) But still they -considered it quite inadmissible; the common word _yew_, a friend, -was unsuitable and improper between two great powers. The only thing -that would satisfy such hairbreadth distinguishers, was to say, "Your -country and mine have amicable intercourse." Wherever the simple and -_common_ word _I_ (wo) occurred, it became necessary to substitute -some other word, having a similar meaning, (as pun.) And for _he_ or -_him_, (ta,) referring to the envoy, they required in substitution of -kae-yuen, "the said officer." Where the President says, "I pray your -majesty to protect him, and to treat him with kindness and confidence," -they wished to introduce a request for "deep condescension" on the part -of the emperor, which was rejected; and, to satisfy them, a slight -change was made in the phraseology of the translation, but without -permitting any thing servile. The President's letter concludes with -this expression:--"I pray God to have you always, great and good -friend, under his safe and holy keeping." This they wished to change -into a prayer to "imperial heaven, for the continual peace of your -majesty's sacred person." In opposition to this proposed change, which -would present the President in the light of an idolater, the Christian -notion of the Deity, as "one God, the Supreme Ruler of heaven and -earth, of the nations and their sovereigns," was explained to them; -and the divinity of heaven and earth, believed by the Chinese and -Cochin-Chinese, was denied. They then proposed, by another change of -the term used to express the Deity, to make the President pray to the -"Gods of heaven." But this point they were obliged also to give up. - -Having thus gone over the whole letter, without the admission of any -degrading terms, though some expressions which they wished to have -adopted were still of a doubtful nature, they were informed, that -if, after consideration, it should appear right to make the proposed -alterations, a copy would be taken on shore in the evening. As they -insisted on having the packet closed before their eyes, it was agreed -that the despatch should then be sealed up, and given them to forward -to the minister. But they were not yet satisfied. After suffering -the letter to the minister to pass muster, (which they did with some -reluctance,) they re-examined the President's letter, and pointed out -how much the words, emperor, Cochin-China, &c., should, as indicative -of respect, be elevated above the head margin of the page; and finally, -they decided that it would be very improper for the President to -address his letter simply to the emperor, (te che;) it must, they -said, be transmitted either _with silent awe_, (suh te,) or _with -uplifted hands_, (fung, or te shang)--terms in frequent use among the -Chinese, and their humble imitators, the Cochin-Chinese, in addresses -from subjects to their sovereigns. These expressions were, therefore, -rejected, and Mr. Morrison returned on board, to consider the other -expressions, and explain them to the envoy. They were told that a -translation must be faithful to the original. They said it should give -the sense without adhering to the words of the original. This was -admitted; but if a different tone were adopted, they were told, the -sense could not be preserved. - -[Sidenote: FRESH INTERROGATORIES.] - -Shortly after Mr. Morrison had reached the ship, he was followed by one -of the deputies, the other being kept back probably by his liability -to sea-sickness. The former came furnished with written directions, -to which he at times referred, having neglected to gain satisfactory -knowledge of two _important_ points, viz.:--whether there were any -presents for the emperor, "as a token of sincerity;" and whether the -envoy was prepared to submit to the etiquette of the court, at an -audience of the emperor--this point being rendered very doubtful by the -previous resistance shown to their numerous requisitions. - -In reply to the first question, the deputy was told, that as the -subject was not mentioned in the letter from the President, it was -unnecessary to refer to it, before the conclusion of a treaty. Should -the emperor desire any thing particular, it might be sent at his -request. - -_Deputy._ "The emperor's coffers are full and overflowing, well -provided with every thing curious and valuable; how can he desire -any thing from you? But you have come to seek trade and intercourse. -Although the emperor is tender and kind to strangers, and willing to -admit them--yet, consider, if it appears well to come without presents -and empty handed." - -_Envoy._ "My country asks no favours or 'tenderness' from any; but I -desire to know how the emperor is willing to admit our merchants to -trade; whether on the same footing as the Chinese, &c., or not. Our -ships are found every where, but we seek favours from none." - -_Dep._ "I have heard that it is customary among the nations of the -west, to send presents, when seeking intercourse with the dominions of -others. On this account I ask the question, not because the emperor -wants any thing." - -_Envoy._ "As the emperor does not want presents, why do you speak of -them? Should a treaty be concluded, this is a minor matter, which can -then be spoken of; but which does not require any previous attention." -To this the deputy assented. - -The ceremony of presentation was easily dismissed, by informing the -deputy, that nothing beyond a bow, as to the President, would be -performed. The ceremony of the country was then asked. He said, that it -was to make five prostrations, touching the ground with the forehead; -and asked if five distinct bows would be acceded to without the -prostrations. To this the envoy replied, yes; he would make five, ten, -or as many bows as they desired; but the kneeling posture is becoming -only in the worship of the Creator. - -[Sidenote: FARTHER DELAYS.] - -The deputy now urged the necessity of proper regard being paid to the -elevation of the words emperor, Cochin-China, &c., and to the use of -"humble and decorous expressions." To this advice he endeavoured to -give greater force, by saying, that in the correspondence held by -the kings of An-nam, before the assumption of the present title of -emperor, such humble phraseology was made use of. This argument would -imply inferiority in the President, to one who bears the high title -of emperor, and was, therefore, instantly repelled as insulting. -The deputy denied its being insulting, maintained the propriety of -his argument, and insisted on the use, at the commencement of the -President's letter, of one or other of the derogatory terms already -mentioned, viz.: that the letter was sent with "silent awe," or that it -was presented with "_uplifted hands_." He was admonished not to repeat -so insulting a demand; for that the President stands on a footing of -perfect equality with the highest emperor, and cannot, therefore, use -any term that may make him appear in the light of one inferior to -the emperor of Cochin-China. The same term, it was added, will be -used as it is used in the letter from the envoy to the minster, which -term implies equality, without any disrespectful arrogation of it. -Such demands, he was told, far from being amicable, were of a very -unfriendly nature. - -In reply, he said, that unless this requisition was complied with, -he and his fellow-officers dare not forward the despatch, enclosing -the copy of the President's letter, nor dare they, he added, -forward the letter to the minister, without the President's letter, -although the mention made in it of the latter should be erased. As -this determination left no alternative, but complete failure or -dishonourable concessions, he was required to repeat the refusal, which -he did more than once, and then returned to the shore. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - SUSPENSION OF INTERCOURSE--FAILURE OF MISSION--DEPARTURE OF - EMBASSY FROM VUNG-LAM BAY--ENVOY'S TITLES--MODE OF HUSKING - RICE--TOMBS OF THE DEAD--FISHING BOATS--ABSENCE OF PRIESTS AND - TEMPLES--SUPERSTITIONS--WILD ANIMALS--MANDARINS' HOUSE--MODE OF - TAKING LEAVE--GOVERNMENT OF COCHIN-CHINA--GRADES OF RANK. - - -Two days having elapsed, on the third of February, without any -official intercourse with the shore, the junior deputy again appeared; -his colleague still remaining on shore on account of sickness. The -professed object of his coming, was a mere visit; the _real_ one, to -propose another word to be used at the commencement of the President's -letter, if the words previously suggested would not be adopted. This -word was kin, implying reverence, solemnity, and veneration, &c., not -differing materially from that which had before been proposed: it was -also rejected. The expression as it already stood, contained, he was -told, nothing disrespectful, and was a plain and simple version of the -original. He was determined, however, that without the adoption of some -derogatory expression, the letter should not be sent on to Hué; so that -the business of the mission remained at a stand. - -The deputy now shifted his position, as indeed none of his fellows -scrupled to do when needful, by adopting a false assertion: "While -on shore," he said, "every word was assented to; why is the use of -these words now refused?" This shows the convenient deafness or -forgetfulness, which these little-minded politicians can assume, when -occasion requires; for it had been specifically stated, that not a word -would be altered without farther consideration, and the permission of -the envoy. - -Thus baffled, he said that the obstinate determination of the envoy -left him at a loss in what way to act. - -"There is but one way," he was answered, "in which you can act. Take -the President's letter without these alterations. If you insist on -them, the business of the mission is at an end. The vessel will, -however, stay the time already mentioned, till she is quite ready -to leave. But you must not suppose she can wait to receive farther -refusals to fresh applications for permission to go to Hué." - -When leaving, it was carelessly said to him, that as he had said -American vessels were at liberty to trade, he should give a copy of the -regulations of commerce. This he refused. - -The next day, some similar questions respecting commerce, which were -asked during a short complimentary visit, were received uncourteously, -and answered by the deputies with professions of ignorance. - -[Sidenote: FAILURE OF MISSION.] - -_February seventh._ Eight days having now elapsed since the return of -the deputies to Hué, and nothing having been heard relative to the -mission, the two remaining deputies were informed, that the vessel -would go to sea on the morrow; and Mr. Morrison was about to pay a -farewell visit, and urge the receipt of payment for the refreshments, -at different times sent off, when the younger deputy came on board. - -After a few compliments had passed, he was told, that if the wind were -favourable, the ship would go to sea in the morning. He was asked, -also, if there was any news. - -The native Christian, Miguel, before interpreting what was said, -asked if the ship would not wait till something was heard from Hué. -But the deputy, who was more cautious of expressing his feelings, -simply replied, that he had no news. Had he heard from Hué, he would -immediately have come to report the news. He requested that no offence -would be taken, nor any unpleasant feeling be entertained, on account -of the manner in which the mission left; as the failure was entirely -owing to the difference of custom in the two countries. He hoped that -all unfriendliness would be dismissed, and that American vessels would -frequent the Cochin-Chinese harbours, as much as if the mission had -succeeded. - -In reply to what he said respecting the difference of customs, he -was told, that it could not be the custom of the country to exact -professions of inferiority from other countries, as the minister had -endeavoured to do in the present instance. The emperor, he said, -would have used the same phraseology, as that proposed to be used in -the letter, if addressing, by his envoy, the President of the United -States. This, he was told, would not be desired in the United States; -and, on the contrary, would only be subject to ridicule. He replied: -"Though _you_ might not require it, _our_ customs would!" It was -rejoined: "Since you would adhere to your own customs, if on a mission -to the United States, it stands to reason that the envoy of the United -States should adhere to his customs here." - -He now shifted his ground, and, while admitting that the expression -proposed was a strong one, maintained, nevertheless, that it was not -indicative of inferiority. Its use, by inferiors in addressing their -superiors, was pointed out to him; and he was asked, why, as the -word first used was far from disrespectful, he should wish it to be -changed? being, at the same time, again assured, that the words he -had suggested, should not be adopted. "If you have so determined," he -rejoined, "I cannot receive this letter. But though the mission fail, -that will not prevent your vessels coming to trade." - -"The trade," it was replied, "is on so bad a footing, the regulations -being unknown, and the government-charges and duties unascertained, -that vessels cannot come here." - -"All nations that come here," he answered, "for instance, the English -and French, are on the same footing with you. They do not inquire about -the laws; and none dare extort from them more than the regular charges." - -"This," he was told, "is not true; for the Chinese are on a different -footing, being able to go to many places where the English and French -cannot go. England and France have endeavoured to form treaties, but -without success. We know the regulations of the English and French -trade, but do not know any for the American trade: hence our mission." - -Being thus driven from one untenable position to another, he at length -pleaded ignorance. Admitting the fact, that the Chinese are allowed to -trade in Tonquin and other places, he however knew only the regulations -of Hué and Turan, and knew nothing of the laws in other places. - -"The mission," it was answered, "is not sent to you, but to the -emperor. He knows what the regulations are in every place." - -"The minister," he replied, "would know all, if the letter were sent -to Hué: but without the change of phraseology already pointed out, it -could not be sent. The envoys of Burmah and Siam have used the same -expressions as those proposed to you." - -"This," he was answered, "can be of no avail with the envoy of the -United States. If the envoys of Burmah and Siam have assented, either -ignorantly or with full knowledge, to adopt expressions of a servile -nature, that can have no influence on this mission." - -"Without the letter," repeated the deputy, "the minister cannot report -to the emperor." - -_Envoy._ "If he will, he can." - -_Dep._ "As I have not received any notice from Hué, I cannot say what -he has done." - -_Envoy._ "Eight days have elapsed since the two deputies have returned -to the capital." - -_Dep._ "Only five days have elapsed since your last letter to the -minister was shown us." - -The deputy was now requested to receive payment for the refreshments -sent to the envoy and the ship, as it was unpleasant to accept any -thing in the form of presents, the envoy not having obtained the -objects of his mission. He was urged not to refuse payment, and assured -that the envoy was sorry he was obliged to leave, without having -brought about a friendly intercourse between the two nations. He -refused, however, all payment as strenuously as it was urged upon him. -The things, he said, were mere trifles, and he could not accept any -thing for them. Nor in this did he say wrong; for they probably cost -the government very much less than their real value, small as that was. - -Before leaving, the deputy drank the health of the President; and the -health of the emperor of Cochin-China was drunk in return. He then took -leave, wishing us health and a pleasant voyage, and a speedy return. He -was thanked and told that he must not expect to see us again. - -The next morning, the ship got under weigh; and though all day slowly -beating out of the harbour, nothing more was seen of the Cochin-Chinese. - -[Sidenote: TITLES OF ENVOY.] - -During the discussion with the Mandarins relative to the letter which -was to be written to the minister, I refused to consider him in any -other light than my equal in rank, as they were so strongly disposed -to exalt him, and debase me if possible. The deputies expressed some -surprise at this observation, and demanded upon what ground I claimed -an equality with them; they were answered, as the representative of an -independent power. They then asked what were my titles; if they were -of as much importance as the minister's, and if they were as numerous. -They were told that there was no order of nobility in the United -States, and so they had been previously informed; still they insisted -that there must be something equivalent to it, and that, as I held an -important office under the government, I should not be without titles -of some sort. Finding the gentlemen were so extremely desirous that I -should have an appendage to my name, and as they would not be satisfied -with a denial, I at once concluded to humour them. I replied that I -would comply with their wishes, and furnish them with the greatest -abundance of titles. As they had been extremely unwilling to give the -titles of the emperor or the minister, or their own, they probably -concluded that I was actuated by the same motives as themselves in -withholding mine, whatever they were. The gentlemen belonging to -the ship who were in the cabin, looked very much astonished at this -reply, wondering how I was to extricate myself from this seeming -difficulty; but they were speedily relieved. The principal deputy -having prepared his Chinese pencil and half a sheet of paper, sat -down to write. I immediately observed to him, that it was necessary -to commence with a whole sheet, at which he expressed some surprise, -and said that the minister's titles would not occupy one fourth of it. -Having determined to give them, in the first place, the names of all -the counties, and the two hundred and odd towns in my native state, -as well as the mountains, rivers, and lakes, which would supply the -places of titles, and then, if they were not satisfied, to proceed -_in the same manner_ with all the other states in the Union, which, -by giving first the names of the several states, then the counties, -towns, &c., would probably occupy them for some days, if they had had -sufficient perseverance to proceed _to the end_ of what _I intended -should be endless_. I then commenced as follows, Mr. Morrison acting as -interpreter and frequently translator: - -Edmund Roberts, a special envoy from the United States, and a citizen -of Portsmouth, in the state of New Hampshire. I then proceeded with the -counties of Rockingham, Strafford, Merrimack, Hillsborough, Grafton, -Cheshire, Sullivan, and Coos. When he had written thus far, which -occupied much time, owing to the almost insurmountable difficulties in -rendering them into Chinese, he expressed strong signs of impatience -and asked if there were any more; I requested him not to be impatient, -as I was very desirous that not one should be omitted, as it was a -matter of primary importance in all governments where titles were -used. He remarked, that already they were greater in number than were -possessed by any prince of the empire. However, he dipped his pencil -in the ink, and recommenced as follows: I first took Gosport, in the -Isles of Shoals, being farthest at sea, and then went on with the towns -on the seacoast; with Hampton and Seabrook, Rye and New Castle, and -then Newington, Stratham, and Exeter. Having proceeded thus far, and -finding difficulties succeeding difficulties, at every syllable and at -every word, he laid down his pencil, seemingly exhausted, and asked if -there were any more, as he had then filled a sheet of Chinese paper. -I answered, he had scarcely made a commencement: at this he said it -was unnecessary to record the rest; and that he never heard or read -of any person possessing a like number. He complained of a headache -and sickness, owing to the rolling of the ship. I then begged he -would desist, for that time, and call on board as _early_ as he could -make it convenient on the following morning, for I was exceedingly -anxious he should have them _all_; then there would be no hesitation -in acknowledging that I was not presumptuous, when I stated that the -prime minister could not be considered my superior in point of rank, -as he did not possess so many titles. It was now very evident that -he began to be alarmed at the extent of my titles, lest they should -totally eclipse those of the minister, and that I might be desirous of -ascending a step _higher_ than his excellency. He replied that he was -fully satisfied that I was every way equal to him in point of rank. I -urged him to proceed, but without effect, for he refused very firmly, -but politely, and therefore _most reluctantly_ I was obliged to accede -to his wishes. - -The whole scene was certainly most ludicrous. Some of the gentlemen -could with much difficulty restrain their risible faculties, while -others walked out of the cabin, being utterly unable to refrain from -laughter, while I kept a most imperturbable countenance until the whole -matter was concluded. I renewed the attempt the next morning, when he -came on board, but he looked quite aghast at the mere request, and thus -ended this farcical scene. - -[Sidenote: NATIONAL USAGES.] - -It may be thought by those who are for submitting to every -species of degradation, to gain commercial advantages, that I was -unnecessarily fastidious in the course I adopted in the negotiation -with Cochin-China; but when it is known that there is no end to the -doctrine of submission with the ultra-Gangetic nations; and all past -negotiations of European powers will fully confirm what I now state, -that neither privileges, nor immunities, nor advantages of any kind, -are to be gained by submission, condescension, conciliation, or by -flattery, (they despise the former as a proof of weakness--the latter -as arguing a want of spirit;) that threats and aggressions are neither -justifiable nor necessary, a dignified, yet unassuming conduct, jealous -of its own honour, open and disinterested, seeking its own advantage, -but willing to promote that of others, will doubtless effect much with -nations of this stamp and character, and must in the end be able to -accomplish the object desired. - -Previous to visiting Cochin-China, I had laid down certain rules of -conduct, which I had resolved to adopt towards these people, as well -as the Siamese. In the first place, I had determined to adhere most -strictly to the truth, however detrimental it might be to the interest -of our commerce at _present_, or however unpalatable it might be to -either of the nations. I had further resolved, not to submit to any -degrading ceremonies, by performing the Ko-tow, uncovering the feet, -&c., &c. My answer to such requisitions would be: We do not come here -to change the customs of your court with its own statesmen, but we -come as independent people, for a short interview. Let your statesmen -preserve their customs, and we will preserve ours. Still, it may be -answered: You come to us, we do not go to you: my reply then would be: -When you come to us, you shall be allowed your own customs, in the mode -of presentation to the President. Reasoning with these people, must not -be founded on the ground of lord and vassal, but reciprocity. National -usages should be avoided as much as possible, and _natural reason_, -common sense, the reciprocal rights of men, be taken as the foundation -of intercourse. There is no end to the doctrine of _submission to law_, -where every worthless justice of peace tells you with a bare-faced lie -in his mouth, that his will and present declaration are the law of the -land. Seeing the gross impositions practised, by apparently friendly -nations, with other negotiators, I had further determined never to -repose any confidence in their advice, but to let my own judgment be -the guide of what was just and right. Furthermore, to be kind and -courteous to all; but after some little formalities, to reveal as -little to inferior officers as possible; and lastly, to use some state -and show, as they are useful auxiliaries in making an impression upon -the uncivilized mind. - -I deem it best, here to remark, that in my negotiations with Asiatics, -all apparent acknowledgments of inferiority, which precedes signatures -to letters, as "your humble servant," &c., are always construed -literally, and of course have an injurious effect upon a conceited -and arrogant people; and great nicety should be observed in preparing -documents on parchment, to which should be attached a large seal, -incased in a gold box, having the envelope of rich yellow silk or -satin, or otherwise it will give offence. - -To all outward appearance the country surrounding this noble bay is in -a highly flourishing condition, but on a more close examination this -beautiful vision is not realized. The inhabitants are without exception -the most filthy people in the world. As soon as the boat touches the -strand, out rush from their palm-leaf huts, men and women, and naked -children and dogs, all having a mangy appearance; being covered with -some scorbutic disease, the itch or small-pox, and frequently with -white leprous spots. The teeth, even of the children who are seven or -eight years old, are of a coal black, their lips and gums are deeply -stained with chewing areca, &c., their faces are nasty, their hands -unwashed, and their whole persons most offensive to the sight and -smell; for the most part the comb has never touched the children's -heads, and a whole village may be seen scratching at the same time -from head to foot. They are apparently brought up in utter idleness; -not a school is to be found, and they are seen playing all day long at -hide-and-go-seek under the boats, lounging among the palm-trees, or -sleeping on the bare ground in the shade or sun, as they find it most -convenient. The dress of the men and women is nearly the same, being -a wide long shirt, buttoned generally on the right side, with a pair -of short simple trousers, made of cotton. Those who are able, wear a -turban of black crape, and every man who makes any pretensions to -gentility, has a pair of reticules or broad-mouthed purses, in which -he puts areca and tobacco: these are thrown over the shoulders, and -are generally neatly made; some are wrought extensively in gold, some -embroidered with silk; others are of plain silk or satin, and generally -of their favourite colour, blue: those of an ordinary kind are worn -about the waist, or carried in the hand. But the dress of nineteen -twentieths of the inhabitants is merely a waist-cloth, which is kept in -a most filthy condition. - -[Sidenote: PRODUCTS.] - -In the course of a whole month, the period of our residence here, I -have not seen a person bathe, although beaches abound every where: the -Cochin-Chinese appear to have an utter aversion to cleanliness, and one -would be apt to infer that they all had a touch of the hydrophobia, -from their aversion to water. From the highly flourishing appearance of -the land, the immense number of fishing and coasting boats constantly -employed, it would be reasonable to conclude that great quantities of -sugar, coffee, cotton and fish were exported, and that provisions of -all kinds could be had in abundance; but such is not the fact: from -one to three small miserable junks, from the island of Hainan, visit -here annually, bringing coarse tea and some paper, and take in return, -ground-nut-oil, a small quantity of wax, and some colambac, here called -kinam; being a resinous aromatic concretion, and generally said to be -taken from the heart of the aloe wood. Sapan wood is occasionally to -be bought. The terrace culture is resorted to, in raising upland rice. -In fact, not enough rice is raised for the use of the inhabitants, and -they are obliged to import part of this necessary article of food from -Nhiatrang, and other parts of the kingdom. - -Their mode of freeing rice from the husk, is by means of a long beam -having a pestle at one extremity; the beam plays on a pivot secured -between two parallel upright posts, a large mortar being firmly fixed -in the ground; the beam is elevated by the operator placing his foot -upon the other end; this is a primitive, and a very slow method of -freeing the husk from the kernel, and it causes it to be much broken. -Indian corn appears to thrive well, but they obtain but a scanty -supply: if more attention was paid to agriculture, and a less number -of people were employed in fishing, exports to a large amount might -be made within a few years; they import rice and tea, when they might -raise both in abundance, as well as coffee. - -Elephants appear to be used here for domestic purposes; they are said -to be found in great numbers. Buffaloes, having a hump between the -fore shoulders, are used in the plough as well as the common ox; the -price given for the former for the use of the ship, has been from ten -to fifteen dollars. A small fleet horse, or rather pony, is here much -used, the price being about twenty quans, equal to eleven dollars. -Fowls, ducks and pigs, are by no means plentiful, and are only bought -at high prices; they will offer two, three or four of the two former -for a Spanish dollar or for a couple of common jackknives, which they -much prefer. The fruits which have been thus far offered for sale, -are the custard-apple and the jack, limes, oranges, pomegranates, -watermelons, lemons of immense size, and a great variety of the -plantain and banana, in one kind of which I found a great many seeds; -they were disposed of in horizontal layers in six compartments, having -a small pith running through them; there are about fifty seeds in -each, of an irregular shape, pointed slightly, and white at the apex; -immediately beneath them was a black ring, extending about one fourth -of the way down. Never having seen any seed-bearing plantain, I am -induced to note it; when ripe, the outside is of a reddish yellow, and -the fruit pleasant to the taste. The vegetables are few in number, and -all we have yet seen, are beans, the egg-plant, and the sweet potato. - -[Sidenote: FISHING-BOATS.] - -Great care appears to be taken of the remains of the dead--some are -placed in tombs of stone, neatly built and plastered, having a small -wicker-work house placed in the centre--others are deposited in a -common grave, having a basket-work roof which is placed there to -protect them from wild beasts. The inhabitants are civil, but sometimes -troublesome in approaching too near--they seem desirous of handling -every part of the dress--but the sad condition they are in, makes -it necessary frequently to use coercive measures to keep them at a -_wholesome_ distance. The naval button, with an eagle and an anchor on -it, demands universal admiration. A few small junks are built of wood -and many are repaired at Vunglam. Fishing occupies a large portion of -the time of the inhabitants, and from one hundred to one hundred and -fifty boats are seen issuing out of the bay every morning at sunrise -from the various villages. Some of them carry lug sails, and others are -of a triangular shape, &c., &c., and some have two masts and others -three; the largest mast being stepped in the centre, the next being -equi-distant between that and the smallest one, which is stepped as -near to the bows as possible; the sail on the middle mast is less than -one half the size of the mainmast, and the forward one about half the -size of the second. They are built very sharp forward; the bottom is -of basket-work, very closely woven, and stretched on a frame, and -dammer or pitch is used freely both within and without; the upper works -are of wood, and oil is frequently applied to the bottom. There are -a few built entirely of wood and very little iron, being generally -tree-nailed on to the timbers. The sails are of matting, neatly woven, -and generally well cut in a seamanlike manner. The cables are of -cocoa-nut fibres, and the anchors of a species of very heavy wood. -Chunam is used on the vessels, having wooden bottoms; and the upper -works are blacked with a substance resembling lacquer. The largest -class may carry forty or fifty tons. - -Trees of a large growth are very scarce, being cut away to the tops of -the highest hills; they are therefore obliged to resort further inland -for ship-timber; a few planks of forty feet in length and about four -inches in thickness, of a very hard wood, were seen in the ship-yards, -sawed out quite roughly. Temples or houses for religious worship and -priests, there are none; they are said to be prone to superstitious -rites--this assertion has been fully confirmed in many instances. - -In passing along between the village of Vunglam and the beach, I saw -a shed erected, having within it some characters written on a board -resembling the Chinese, but being blended so much together, they could -not be understood; the picture of a frightful object was also there. -A Chinese, who was with us, said it was placed there to guard against -evil spirits, which greatly infested that place. In another part of the -village was erected a similar shed, under which was a board, on which -was inscribed in Chinese characters, only the word _God_, it therefore -reminded me at once of what St. Paul found written on an altar at -Athens, "To the unknown God." I suppose those more refined barbarians -and these poor Cochin-Chinese, are alike ignorant of _Him_ who made -and governs all things. Traversing the beach near Vung-chow, we saw a -small cell erected on posts, in the middle of a grove of trees; looking -into it, we found two chalk-fish painted green, suspended from the -roof, and some pots containing half-burnt joss-sticks. When they wish -for success in fishing, offerings are made to the presiding Deity. -Great quantities of sea-shells were scattered about the place, and -fires were evidently frequently made; thus they present the essence -of their feasts only to the Neptunian Deity, while the pious devotee -devours the substance. In another similar place about four miles from -thence, we found another cell or box erected on posts, but it was -more neatly constructed--in it were two paintings in water colours, -evidently Chinese, each having one large and two small female figures; -before them were half-burnt incense rods and on one side a horse's head -wrapped in a cloth, which, on opening, we found filled with maggots: a -great number of small green glazed pots were scattered about. - -Tigers abound throughout the country: a few nights since one came into -the village of Vunglam, and carried off into the jungle a good-sized -pig. The woods abound with wild hogs, goats, deer, peacocks, &c., &c., -and the wild elephant is also abundant in the forests. About two miles -from hence is a large barrack, containing a number of soldiers: the -only arm I have yet seen them to possess is a very long spear, having -a small flag or tassel attached to it. I was introduced to an old man, -the commander of two thousand, the other day; himself and attendants -were on horses of a small size, or rather ponies; they sat on saddles -of a peculiar construction, the hinder part being the lowest; the -saddle-cloth being fancifully painted, a rope used instead of a bit -and bridle, and a string of small ornamented bells placed around the -neck: the commander was dressed in a long robe of blue satin, and -wore a black crape turban. He endeavoured to show every civility by -dismounting and walking. - -[Sidenote: MANDARINS' HOUSE.] - -It has been heretofore stated, that, after repeated requests, we -returned the ceremonious calls of two of the mandarins. On approaching -the house, towards the outer gate, we found twelve long spears, bearing -small flags, placed perpendicularly in the ground, in two lines. A -wattled fence separated the dwelling from the beach: in passing through -the outward entrance, we found a short neat avenue, of the graceful -areca-palm, intertwined with the piper-betel leaf. We then passed -through the inner entrance to the court-yard, which was in neat order. -The mandarins received us with much politeness: a temporary arbour -had been erected, and a table spread, having on it rice-wine, cakes, -sweetmeats, fruits--tea being also served. At each end of the arbour, -were suspended, from the roof, two elegantly embroidered cloths, having -silk tassels and worked lappels: Chinese characters were wrought on -them, the purport of which could not be ascertained, as they were so -much blended together. Two brass tripods, for burning incense, were -placed on the table, ornamented with a lion couchant, from the mouth -of which and the open-work cover, issued the grateful perfume of the -kinnam or calembac, which was kept well replenished. Paper cigars, -pipes, and areca, completed the regale. The house was of brick, with -a neat tiled roof. Flowers, in pots, were neatly arranged around the -court-yard. - -Many of the natives stood looking on, and behaved with perfect -propriety. The mandarin, or chief of the village of Vung-lam, who -paid us the first visit on our arrival, was in attendance, standing -at my left hand, and served us, in common with the interpreters. -The mandarins were dressed in their robes of ceremony. Three houses -occupied as many sides of the court-yard. The mandarins and guards -attended us to our boats. - -When the discussion was going on relative to the letter to the -minister, which occupied many hours, they finally approved of every -sentence, and every word, except "_friendly_," which they thought was -rather too familiar a word to be used between nations; and therefore -they proposed substituting the word "neighbourly," which would read, -"neighbourly intercourse." Seeing that I was rather amused at the -proposed alteration, they were desirous of knowing the cause. Being -told, that, as we lived some twenty thousand miles apart, we could not -hold a _very neighbourly intercourse_, they were much amused by the -gross blunder committed by their ignorance, and replied, it was very -true, and therefore they would be satisfied with the word friendly, -as proposed by me. They were not aware, however, of the distance -between the two countries, neither did they know the situation of North -America, but supposed it to be in Europe, as we afterward ascertained. - -When they take leave, they always place our right hand between theirs, -bow their heads very slowly, and as low down as possible. - -The government of Cochin-China is thoroughly despotic, being framed in -close imitation of that of China. The sovereign, who, till lately, bore -the title of king, and who still pays a nominal tribute to China under -that title, assumes, among his own subjects, and with all foreign -countries, except China, the Chinese title of hwang-te, (or emperor,) -with the peculiar attribute, "sacred," "divine," &c., commonly used -by the court of Peking. The name, or epithet, by which the present -monarch is designated, (which name was taken by the monarch himself, -at his accession to the throne,) is ming-ming; it signifies, "emperor -appointed by the brilliant decree of heaven." - -According to the account of the deputies, who visited the ship at -Vung-lam, the _administration_ is also formed in imitation of the -Chinese--consisting of a council of four principal, and two secondary -ministers. The chief of these, (whom Mr. Crawford, the British envoy, -calls the minister of elephants, or of strangers,) was said to be the -minister of commerce, navigation, &c. - -The provincial government is also formed in imitation of the Chinese. -Two or more provinces are governed by a toung-tuh, (tsong-dok,) or -governor; under whom, the principal officers, in each province, -are two, viz.: a pooching-sze, (bo-chang-sze,) or treasurer and -land-officer: and an anchasze, or judge. Subordinate to these, are -magistrates, called che-foos, che-keens, &c., presiding over the -districts into which each province is divided. In Cochin-China, as -in China, there are nine grades of rank, each of which is divided -into a principal and secondary class. Every officer, employed in the -government, is of one of these grades: thus, the ministers of the -council are of the first grade, principal class; and the governors of -provinces, are of the first grade, secondary class. - -This is all the information respecting the government of Cochin-China, -that could be obtained from the natives. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - PASSAGE FROM COCHIN-CHINA TO THE GULF OF SIAM--ARRIVAL AT - THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER MENAM--PACKNAM--PROCESSION TO THE - GOVERNMENT-HOUSE--RECEPTION--GOVERNOR--SIAMESE TEMPLES--INTERVIEW - WITH THE SIAMESE FOREIGN MINISTER--PRIMA DONNA--FEATS - OF STRENGTH--SIAMESE FEMALES--FIRE AT BANG-KOK--WHITE - ELEPHANTS--EMBALMING--SHAVING-HEAD CEREMONY AND FEAST--FOX-BATS. - - -We weighed anchor on the eighth of February, for the gulf of Siam; -light winds and calms detained us nearly two days, within sight of the -bay, in which lies Vunglam, &c., &c. We kept near to the coast, and -found it bold and free from dangers; the land was hilly and frequently -broken into mountains, more particularly between that bold promontory, -called Cape Varela, and Cape Padaran. We passed the latter within -three miles; from thence the land gradually dwindled into a gently -undulating country, and then into low land. We finally lost sight of -it off the numerous mouths of the great river, Kamboja. On the same -afternoon, being the twelfth, we passed Padaran, and saw Pulo Cica de -Terre and Lagan point. At meridian, on the following day, Pulo Condore -was in sight, and the islands to the westward, called the Brothers. -At daylight, the next morning, we beheld Pulo Ubi, or Yam island, -which lies to the southward of cape Camboja. On the fourteenth, the -islands and islets called Pulo Panjang, and ascertained their correct -position to be in latitude 9° north, by a meridian observation, and -by the chronometers, in 104° 32´, east longitude. At daylight, on -the following morning, we found ourselves in the midst of a group of -islands, lying so peacefully amid the glassy surface of the gulf, that -Dana's beautiful description of "Quiet Islands," was at once brought to -my recollection, from which I have made the following extract:-- - - "The island lies nine leagues away, - Along its solitary shore, - Of craggy rocks and sandy bay, - No sound but ocean's roar, - Save where the bold, wild sea-bird makes her home, - Her shrill cry, coming through the sparkling foam; - - "But when the light winds lie at rest, - And on the glassy, heaving sea, - The black duck, with her glossy breast, - Sits swinging silently, - How beautiful! no ripples break the reach, - And silvery waves roll noiseless up the beach." - -These islands are uninhabited, excepting when they are used as a -place of resort by Malay pirates. They are six in number, and a rocky -islet. As they are not laid down in any of our charts, they were -named the "_Woodbury Group_," in honour of my friend, the Honourable -Levi Woodbury, the secretary of the navy. The northernmost island was -called "_Geisinger_;" the most southern and eastern, "_Roberts_;" -the centre one, between the two, "_Peacock_;" and that one lying -farthest to the westward, and nearly in latitude of Roberts island, -was named "_Boxer_:" the others were left unnamed. Their latitudes and -longitudes, from three chronometers and a meridian observation, are as -follows:--Two of them are about two miles long; one is in latitude 10° -16´ N., and longitude, 102° 43´ E., and the other in 10° 7´ and 103°. -Two small islands and a rocky islet to the westward of them, lie in -10° 25´ and 103°. Two narrow islands, four or five miles in length, -one in latitude 10° 19´ and 103° 12´ E., and the other in 10° 15´, and -103° 21´ E. On the sixteenth February, at noon, we were abreast of cape -Liant and the islands in its vicinity; the latter are high and bold of -approach. Their latitude and longitude are laid down in the charts too -far to the southward and eastward. On the eighteenth we came to anchor -in four fathoms of water, about ten miles from the mouth of the river -Menam. - -The Ko Si-Chang islands bore as follows: The most southern and westward -of the group, S. S. E. 3/4 E.; centre, S. E. 1/2 S. The mountain of -Bang-pa-soe, on the main land, E. S. E. The entrance of the eastern -or main branch of the Menam, and the easternmost land in sight, W. -S. W. The land is very low, even with the water's edge, and covered -with trees; that at the entrance, on the starboard hand, is a little -more elevated. On the nineteenth, the tide had fallen to nineteen. We -weighed again, and stood a mile or two to the southward, and anchored -in five fathoms. The latitude and longitude of the anchorage is in -latitude 13° 26´ N., and longitude 100° 33´ E., as was ascertained by -frequent lunar observations and by four chronometers. During the height -of the river, when it is swollen by the periodical rains, sixteen feet -of water may be found on the bar. At high spring tides, in the dry -season, twelve to thirteen feet, and eight to nine in common tides. -The above-named islands, by some navigators called the Dutch islands, -possess a safe and beautiful harbour, formed between the principal, or -Si-Chang island, and the next in magnitude, called Koh-kam. They are -inhabited only by a few fishermen, and produce _some_ yams, bananas, -capsicums, gourds, and cucumbers. A boat was despatched to them to -obtain water, if possible, but it could not be found in sufficient -quantities to furnish the ship. We had no other resource, but to send -upward of forty miles for it, to Bang-kok, or else to take the brackish -water of Packnam. Water, we were informed, could only be had at the -Si-Changs during the rainy season. - -[Sidenote: PACKNAM.] - -A boat was sent to the governor of Packnam on the eighteenth, to inform -him of the arrival of the ship, &c., and a letter was sent to the -minister for foreign affairs, announcing the arrival of the mission. On -the following day, an interpreter came on board, who asked among the -first questions if there were any presents for the king, but received -no satisfactory answer. A vast number of questions were also put to -Mr. Morrison by the governor. A Cochin-Chinese ambassador arrived at -Packnam on the same day, with several small filthy junks laden with -merchandise. It was said to be only an annual mission sent by the -emperor, while others stated that it was to honour the ceremony of -burning the body of the "second king" who died some months since at -the capital. On the twentieth, the captain of the port came on board, -who said he was sent by the praklang or prime minister, by order of -the king, to congratulate us on our arrival; that his majesty was much -gratified at the good news, and very desirous of having a friendly -commercial intercourse with the United States. After making similar -inquiries, as the governor of Packnam, he returned. The day following, -the praklang sent some fruit as a token of regard, with a complimentary -message to me. - -On Sunday the twenty-fourth, three large boats came to anchor near the -ship, under the charge of the captain of the port of Bang-kok, Mr. -Josef Piedade, a Christian Portuguese born at Bang-kok. He stated that -preparations were made at Packnam by the governor for the reception -of the mission, that a feast was there prepared by order of the king, -that we should be under the necessity of remaining there that night, -for it was customary for all foreign ministers to stop there, and -notice to be given of their arrival; in congressional language, to -"report progress." The vessel in which I embarked was from seventy to -eighty feet in length, and perhaps eight or nine in breadth, sharp -built; having three long brass cannon, highly ornamented with silver, -inlaid in fanciful devices. One was placed forward, between the bows, -the vessel having no bowsprit; one aft, and two long swivels mounted -on fixtures, between the fore and main mast, and between the main and -mizen mast. She had three fore-and-aft sails made of light canvass, and -cordage made of hemp, with good iron anchors, which are rarely seen on -board native vessels in the China seas, wooden ones being in general -use. The vessel was propelled with forty short oars, manned by as many -Burmese slaves, dressed in the king's uniform; being a coarse red -cotton long jacket, a cap of the same material, trimmed with white, and -a blue waist-cloth. The boat had two rudders, one under each quarter; -and from having two helmsmen, it was either "hard up, or hard down," -continually; consequently, she "_yawed_" not a little. There were no -less than seven red flags; one to each peak, two to each bow, and two -to each quarter. A small house on deck was appropriated solely for the -use of the envoy. It was covered with a carpet, and furnished with a -pillow to recline on. The boat was neatly built and painted, and the -house slightly decorated with carving and gilding. The passengers in -the two boats consisted of Capt. Geisinger, Second-Lieut. Purveyance, -Lieut. Fowler of the Marine Corps, Acting-Lieut. Brent, Doctor Ticknor, -Midshipmen Carrol, Thomas, Crawford and Wells, and Mr. J. R. Morrison -of Macao, Secretary and Chinese Interpreter, and four servants. -The other was, in all respects, a similar vessel, but manned with -thirty-six oars; rowed by Malay slaves dressed in blue, with caps of -the same, trimmed with white. The ship lay in five and a half fathoms -water, and not less than fifteen miles from Packnam, which is situated -about two miles from the mouth of the river Menam: Packnam means the -river's mouth or embochure. The shores are every where very low, and as -flat as the south side of La Plata, or Arkansas on the Mississippi, and -in the rainy season are completely submerged. The entrance to the river -on the starboard hand is rather more elevated than on the left, which -is quite sunken, mangrove and other trees only appearing out of the -water. The river takes a sharp turn to the northward, at the entrance; -the left bank running parallel, gives it the appearance of being closed -at the mouth. - -[Sidenote: PROCESSION.] - -We arrived at Packnam, on the left bank of the river, about eight, -and found there, waiting for us, the captain of the port, and a -great number of slaves at the landing, with torches in hand, and -fastened also to temporary posts, to light us on the way to the -government-house, situated just without an extensive fortification. -There was a narrow way paved with broad bricks, which led to the -governor's. The gentlemen composing the company, the servants on each -flank with their numerous flambeaux, with many hundred lookers-on, -preserving the utmost decorum, made no small show, and produced, upon -the whole, rather an imposing effect, for this was the first envoy ever -sent to the "magnificent king of Siam," from the United States. - -We were ushered into the best house in the village, enclosed by a -bamboo-fence and guarded by soldiers with long wooden poles, pointed -with iron. The houses are erected as all the houses are here, from five -to seven feet above the ground, on substantial posts; the sides are -covered with attap, a species of palm growing abundantly on the banks -of the Menam; they have a double roof, one of tile and another of attap -to moderate the intensity of the heat. We ascended a stairway and were -ushered into "the presence" through lines of _prostrate_ slaves, from -thence to a raised platform. - -The governor was sitting cross-legged on an elevated seat, under a -broad canopy, surrounded, a little beneath him, by his sword and -silver-stick bearers, and a man holding a long fan made of feathers, -which was kept in constant motion to keep him cool and to drive off -the myriads of moschetoes. His menials were all prostrate, resting on -their knees and elbows, coming in and going out in the same attitude, -always keeping their faces turned towards him. He was smoking a long -pipe, having before him areca-nut, chunam, ceri (siri) or betel-leaf, -and tobacco, all of which were deposited in several large gold cups or -goblets. His dress consisted of a _waist-cloth_--his head was shaved -excepting on the crown, "à la Siamese." He received us very graciously, -courteously, and hospitably, shaking us heartily by the hand; chairs -were prepared for us and the best viands the place could afford, -consisting of at least a dozen dishes, were shortly ordered in, well -cooked in the Portuguese fashion, clean and neat with porter, cocoa-nut -water, and a square Dutch bottle of gin--there were clean table-cloth, -knives, forks, plates and spoons, and the floor was covered with a neat -woollen carpet. The usual inquiries were made for our healths, ages, -children, &c., &c. He congratulated us on our arrival, and said the -mission was not only gratifying to him personally but to the country, -as he was informed by the praklang or principal minister. - -Supper being ended, bamboo-chairs covered with mats, some mattresses -and pillows, were prepared, and the raised canopy or throne was -assigned to me. Three fourths of two sides of the room were open to the -air, protected from rain only by the long projecting attap roof--we -were guarded during the night by soldiers and excessively annoyed by -moschetoes. By daylight, all were upon the "qui vive," glad to escape -from the torments of the night. An early ramble carried us to a pagoda, -neat in appearance, decorated with carved work and gilding--it was -built of brick and neatly plastered--figures of non-descript animals -were about it, which were probably intended for lions, cut from -granite, and there were small pra-chades or single spires built of -brick and plastered, the whole being enclosed by a wall; the doors -were shut so that we could not obtain an entrance; the ground every -where was very low and swampy, and the houses mean; the people appeared -to be wretchedly poor, diseased and dirty, but still cleaner than -the Cochin-Chinese. Breakfast ended, we took leave of the hospitable -governor and proceeded up the river. - -Very extensive fortifications are here to be seen on both sides of the -river, having water batteries, apparently of great strength. A great -number of soldiers manned the walls in compliment to us, all dressed -in the royal red uniform. We proceeded on with the flood tide, cheered -by the passing scene. Occasionally, we met a single hut or a group of -huts, having a boat at the door, and a ladder to ascend into their -only room; this ladder is taken away at night, making their habitations -more secure against wild beasts and reptiles, which are in great -abundance in the swamps. Their principal neighbours are tigers and -leopards, snakes of various sizes from the boa-constrictor and venomous -cobra de cappello to the more deadly viper, which they say is black, -about four or five inches in length, and has two short legs. Alligators -bask in the sun at the foot of the ladder or under their building, and -moschetoes bear the palm here over the swamps of Louisiana and Texas, -coming in myriads so as partially to obscure the sun. - -We passed on to Pack-lac situated on the right bank, where we again -found very extensive fortifications; but we were unable to ascertain -the number of guns either here or at Packnam, which is probably about -ten or twelve miles below. The ebb tide here met us, and the slaves -made but slow progress in rowing--a breeze occasionally helped us, but -the remainder of the passage was rendered tedious by the great heat of -the sun. The river has a great many bends, so that it is nearly double -the distance, by water, from Packnam to the capital, being from thirty -to thirty-five miles, and only twenty by land. The shores are upon a -level with the river at high spring tides, even at Bang-kok, and as I -am informed, a long distance above Jutaya the ancient capital. - -Not until we were within a dozen miles of the capital, were there many -clusters of huts to be seen; but, from thence, they gradually increased -in number till we arrived at the city. The graceful and favourite -areca-palm, with its tall slender trunk and brush-like head, and the -towering bamboo and cocoa-nut, were to be seen every where along the -banks, interspersed with a great variety of fruit and forest trees; -and the water's edge was bounded by the attap, or cocos-nypa, which -is in universal use as a thatch for their huts. As we approached the -capital, we began to see pagodas, some houses with tiled roofs, and -a great many large junks, building in dry docks, which consist of a -simple excavation made on the banks, the water being drained out by an -ordinary barrier of plank, well banked with clay. Many of these junks -were upward of a thousand tons. From two to three hundred were lying in -the river. - -[Sidenote: BUDHIST TEMPLES.] - -Numerous temples of Budha were now seen, covered with neat coloured -tiles, some blue, and others green or yellow. Tall single spires, or -prah-chadis, were observed every where. The temples present a very -splendid appearance, having highly ornamented carved work in front, and -literally blazing in gold. There is something very novel in their style -of architecture, which can only be made clear to the understanding by -drawings. Fruit and palm-trees overshadow their houses, interspersed -with the sacred fig-tree, giving to them a cool and tropical-like -appearance. Floating houses, resting on rafts of bamboo secured to -piles, line both banks of the river, which seem to be occupied by -industrious Chinese, as their long narrow red signs indicate: the -latter serve to show the various articles they have for sale, &c. -The Chinese are easily distinguished by their complexion, being more -yellow than the Siamese; but they have generally _docked_ the _entail_ -to their heads, and dress à la Siamese, with a circle of hair on the -_roof_. But few of the "long tails," the distinguishing appendage to a -Chinaman's head, are to be seen. - -We were upward of nine hours in reaching the landing,[A] in front -of the house assigned to us by the king. We landed, and formed a -procession to the house; the officers being dressed in their uniforms, -and the servants bringing up the rear. We were ushered in by the -pia-visa, or general of artillery, benedetts de arguelleria, and some -other of the king's officers, to the finest looking house we had seen -on the river, having the front view entirely unobstructed. Passing -through a neat white gateway, having a well-built stuccoed wall, over -a grass-plot, through the inner gate, we found ourselves within an -extensive area, between two long rows of buildings, having large trees -in the centre; an outside staircase conducted us to a saloon, where -we found a table set, and shortly after supper was announced. It was -cooked in the European and Indian style, having a variety of curries -of fish and fowl. It was well served, and in profusion; and followed -by a great variety of sweetmeats, and fruits of the season. Certain -king's officers attended, and ordered every thing; bedsteads and beds -were brought; and, in a day or two, moscheto-nets, &c., &c. A cook was -provided, and a purveyor, who partially supplied us with provisions. -There was, also, a superintendant of the household, a Siamese -Portuguese by birth, Domingo by name, having four other servants to do -the ordinary work of the house; and these, again, are all under the -orders of Piedade, the captain of the port, who receives his orders -from the praklang, or prime minister for foreign affairs. - -[A] On the right bank of the river, which is called Bang-kok--the word -Bang-kok is derived from ban, a house, and kok, a garden. Most of the -fruit used at the old capital, came from this place. - -Every day or two, presents of sweetmeats, fruit, or more substantial -food is sent, by the praklang, served up in glass dishes, and sent -on gold and silver salvers. When brought in, the servants kneel down -and present them, in a more humble manner than suits our republican -notions. Our residence has two ranges of buildings, running back -about one hundred and fifty feet, exclusive of the front yard, with a -wide area between them. It is built of brick and stuccoed, having a -neat tiled roof. A long covered gallery conducts to the dormitories, -consisting of eight on each side, which are about twenty feet square, -with wooden floors; underneath are magazines, or offices; between -the two ranges of building, and connected with them by a high wall, -is the dining-hall, open so as freely to admit the air, commanding a -fine view of the capital and suburbs, on the left bank: underneath the -dining-hall, is a private go-down, or magazine. The river at all times -has a great number of boats upon it; but in the morning, when the bazar -is being made ready, there are many hundreds, probably thousands, going -in all directions, from the smallest canoe, scarcely able to contain -a single person, to others which are nearly a hundred feet in length, -and made from a single teak-tree: they are paddled by a great number of -men, having a house in the centre, or a palm-leaf roof; the passengers -reclining on a raised platform, covered with mats, carpets, and pillows. - -[Sidenote: WATER-PEDLARS.] - -Water-pedlars, of both sexes, but principally women, are in abundance, -carrying tin and brass ware, English, and China, and India goods. Rice, -oil, dried and fresh fish, balachang, eggs, fowls, areca, siri-leaf, -chunam, pork, fruit, vegetables, &c.; indeed every thing that is -wanted, or supposed necessary for the comfort, convenience, or luxury -of the inhabitants. Budhist priests, with their yellow waist-cloths, -mantles, shaven heads and eyebrows, are seen in great numbers, going -their daily rounds among the inhabitants, in canoes, for food and -clothing. Women, also, use the oar, in great numbers, and with equal -dexterity as the men. - -Although the Siamese are not a cleanly people, they are far superior -to the Cochin-Chinese; they bathe frequently, their skins are clear -and free of eruptions, and they do not everlastingly scratch, scratch, -and keep scratching, like the people of Vunglam; but their coal-black -teeth are excessively disgusting, and the saliva created by chewing -areca, siri-leaf, and tobacco, is constantly issuing in a red stream, -from their mouths. Fishing being farmed out, there are not the same -lively scenes exhibited here as on the Pasig. I have seen but a very -few occupied in that way since my arrival. Every floating house has -necessarily a boat to go visiting, from place to place, or to transact -business. The front parts of all these houses are shops, having their -wares neatly arranged on shelves and terraces. These buildings are of -one story only, and are used as a bedroom at night, or to take a siesta -when the heat of the day, low water, and want of customers, give to -their inmates a temporary respite. - -The river here is about fifteen hundred feet wide, and very deep, -probably fifty or sixty feet, and the stream rapid on the flood and -ebb; the water is notwithstanding, fresh, and is used for all domestic -purposes, filthy as it is. The upper stratum of the banks of the river -is alluvial, and the under, where exposed, shows a stiff strong clay. -The houses on the land, with very few exceptions, are of one story, -built on high piles, made of plank or bamboo, and roofed with tile or -attap. - -[Sidenote: RECEPTION OF ENVOY.] - -Having expressed a desire to the praklang, through the interpreter, to -enter as early as possible on the subject of the mission, I received -an invitation early the next morning, from the minister of foreign -affairs, to meet him the same afternoon at five. He sent me word at -the same time, that it was always customary for foreign ministers to -pay him the first visit. Suitable boats were sent in due time, and -Captain Geisinger and his officers, and Mr. Morrison, accompanied me, -dressed in their uniforms. A few minutes brought us to his house. -Numerous people were present to attend our landing, a large portion of -whom came, probably, from motives of curiosity only. The house being -but a short distance from the river, we were soon within his gates, -and entered by a flight of steps into the audience hall. In the centre -was a raised seat, on which the minister reclined. He is a very heavy -unwieldy man, weighing, probably, nearly three hundred pounds, and -about fifty-five years of age; his only dress was a waist-cloth of -silk; he was resting on a new crimson velvet cushion, supported on the -back by one of triangular shape. In front, on the seat, were utensils -of gold, handsomely wrought, containing areca, chunam, betel-leaf, -&c., the gift of the king. The front of the hall was entirely open, -the room decorated with a great number of very ordinary oval gilt -looking-glasses, placed near to the ceiling, on the pillars which -supported the roof; common English prints of battles, rural scenery, -&c., were closely placed along the walls. Instead of wooden panels, -painted Chinese glass was placed in compartments of about four feet -in height, with a profusion of blue and gold, and outré figures of -Chinese men, animals, &c. Brass chandeliers and common glass lamps were -suspended from the roof. On the left of the praklang, being the seat of -honour in the East, and at the distance of a dozen feet, were placed -two chairs for Captain Geisinger and myself. I was requested to occupy -the one nearest to the minister. A short distance from us, parallel -with the praklang's seat, chairs were placed for the officers of the -Peacock and Mr. Morrison. On the right, on a raised platform, but lower -than the minister's or our seat, and fronting Captain Geisinger and -myself, were Mr. Piedade and other interpreters, secretaries, &c., to -the number of six or seven, closely wedged together; they were all -crouching, in a brute-like attitude, on their knees and elbows. On -the left, between me and the minister, were two of his younger sons, -decorated with a profusion of golden necklaces, set with large stones, -having beautiful golden coronets around the tuft of hair, on the top -of the head, and a large golden bodkin secured the hair on their -crown; a silken waist-cloth covered their loins, and silver bangles -or rings decorated their wrists and ankles. Their skins were stained -with turmerick, sandal-wood, or saffron. A sword-bearer, resting on -his shoulder a sword, having a rich and highly-finished and ornamented -gold sheath; another slave, with a long feathered fan, to keep his -excellency cool, if possible, with others, were all prostrate on the -floor, like the interpreters; without, in the court-yard, were a -great number of people, all in this humiliating posture. His sons, -when called, crawled as well as the others, and went backward in the -same attitude, always facing their lord and master. One of them was -ordered to bring us palm-leaf cigars; he came crawling on, poor fellow, -bowed his head to the ground, and presented them; he then went to the -officers, but stood up, after leaving Captain Geisinger and myself; -he afterward crawled back to his station, on the left of his father. -We all made a bow in the usual style of our country, on entering and -retiring, and were presented with tea, sweetmeats, and fruit. - -The minister congratulated us on our arrival, inquired, as is customary -here, as to our ages, children, &c., what ports we had been to, the -object of the mission, all of which he previously knew by a letter -received from me, dated on the day of our arrival off the mouth of the -Menam. Having got through with this interview, and appointed the next -evening for a conference, we took leave. I observe that the greater -chiefs within sight of our habitation, have high poles erected close to -their houses, on which small flags are displayed, and at night large -lanterns are hoisted at the top, as a distinguishing mark, over their -less fortunate neighbours. Every sort of humiliation is practised by -the lower to the higher classes, according to their rank: from that -of making a simple obeisance by uniting their hands, and raising them -to the forehead, and bowing the head low, to kneeling, and the entire -prostration of the body. - -We went by invitation, on the sixth of March, to the house of the -praklang's brother, to attend the celebration of the feats given, in -consequence of cutting the tuft of hair on his son's head, which is -done between the ages of ten and fifteen. The principal part of this -evening's entertainment was comic acting and posture dancing, which -consists in graceful attitudes of the body, and in slow movements of -the arms and legs, particularly of the former, even to the distinct -motions of the hands and fingers. The actors consisted of a king and -queen, and male and female attendants, amounting to a dozen, all -glittering in gold and tinsel, barefooted and barelegged, their faces -painted white, and having silver guards to their nails, not less than -six inches long, pointed at the end, and recurvated: singing in rather -a melancholy strain, not altogether unmusical. There were about a -hundred beating sticks on a long board, which were changed occasionally -for another stick, which, when struck, sounded like castanets: two -drums beaten by the hands, trumpets, small horns, and an instrument -called a ranat: it is made in Lao or Laos, of graduated pieces of -bamboo, which give a sweet sound when struck with a sort of wooden -hammer covered with pieces of coarse cotton thread: it has eighteen -keys or bars, each fifteen inches long, two inches broad, strung -together, and suspended over a wooden boat-shaped box; the top part -being left open. There was another instrument also, the khong-nong; -being a series of small cymbals in a bamboo-frame, forming a large -segment of a circle. - -[Sidenote: THE PRIMA DONNA.] - -During the posture-dances, and through a considerable part of the -divertisement, the principal singer to all splendid entertainments, the -prima donna, squalled to the very top of her voice, various ditties -in a melancholy strain, until I thought she would have swooned from -exhaustion: but I was mistaken; for she was made of tougher materials, -than ever fell to the lot of any other female. She was seated on the -ground, and dressed in a dingy cotton waist and breast cloth, and her -hair arranged "à la Siamese;" it being all shaved off excepting on the -crown, which was combed perpendicularly, standing "like quills upon -the fretful porcupine." Her teeth were as black as ebony, and her lips -and gums were of a livid red: out of the corners of her mouth issued -a stream of dark coloured saliva, which, ever and anon, she wiped off -with the back of her hand, and which was finally deposited on the -waist-cloth behind: the saliva was produced by masticating areca, -siri, chunam and tobacco; the latter projecting from the right corner -of her mouth, according to the disgusting practice of the Javanese -and Siamese. A Catalani, a Sontag or a Garcia, could not feel much -flattered by this addition to their sisterhood. When the actors enter -on the floor, it is in a crouching or kneeling position, till they come -in front of the master of the feast; then all kneel, bow their heads, -and at the same time touch their foreheads with their united hands, and -then slowly lower them to the waist. The second night's entertainment -consisted mostly of representations of gladiators engaged in combat, -fighting with swords and sticks, while numerous Chinese crackers were -let off in imitation of musketry: there were pugilistic contests also -with the fists, and slapping with the flat of the hand; but there was -no real "set-to." There was also a most excellent company of vaulters -and tumblers; some of the feats were truly surprising, as the following -description will show: it was a feat of strength, which surpassed every -thing of the kind that I ever witnessed. Four men placed themselves in -a solid square, two others then got up and stood upon their shoulders, -and another man again upon theirs; a very athletic young man apparently -about sixteen years of age, by the assistance of a ladder, placed -himself in a similar position, on the shoulders of the last man, -standing however only on one foot, occasionally shifted; a boy of about -twelve, then mounting a ladder high enough for the top man to seize him -by a belt round the waist, he was raised at arms' length with perfect -ease, standing on one leg, and occasionally shifting it to the other. -After balancing him for a minute or two he threw his burden from him, -who descending turned a somerset and came without harm on his feet, -being pitched from an elevation of about twenty-four feet. There were a -great many hundred spectators all sitting on the floor, excepting the -wives and relations of the master of the feast, who sat in a narrow -gallery. Chairs were used only by our party, consisting of eleven. - -A handsome entertainment was served up to us, in a very neat large -room, to which we ascended by a flight of four stairs, leading from a -court open on two sides. The supper consisted of a great variety of -sweetmeats and fruit, served up in a very neat pretty style, on silver -salvers, placed on half a dozen tables--the chairs being borrowed -expressly for our use; the head of the table was assigned to me; -cocoa-nut water was the only drink, which was taken from the shell. -The room was decorated, at one end, with an elegant canopy, rich in -gold and silk, under which were displayed elegant glass, China ware, -and gold and silver utensils, arranged on a wooden-terraced frame, -highly gilt, painted, and varnished, flowers being interspersed here -and there. The canopy was brilliantly lighted with coloured lamps, -and made a handsome, rich, unique, but rather tawdry appearance. As -I cannot tell a Siamese man from a woman, when numbers are seated -together, so it is out of my power to say whether any females were -present, excepting the young actresses, who were all barefooted young -girls. The hair of the Siamese women is cut like that of the men; their -countenances are, in fact, more masculine than those of the males: -they are generally very fat, having very stout lower limbs and arms; -are excessively ugly; and when they open their mouths, truly hideous; -resembling the inside of a black painted sepulchre. - -[Sidenote: FIRE AT BANGKOK.] - -On the eleventh, a large fire took place, in the Christian Portuguese -company, of Santa Cruz, immediately in our neighbourhood, which -stopped at our premises. It blazed with great fury, the houses being -roofed with attap, and the bamboo-frames being covered with the same -combustible material: it produced great distress among the poor -people: their houses were probably all their property, their beds being -only a mat, and their cooking utensils, small earthen pots and a water -jar; a waist-cloth or two, and a few trifles, were easily saved; but -plunderers, in great numbers, stole their few miserable trifles as fast -as they were conveyed to the rear. About one hundred and fifty huts -were burnt, and some fifty or sixty of the sufferers took shelter in -and about our house, and some of the unoccupied rooms; and, for many -days, we supplied most of them with food. The king and the praklang -ordered them to be assisted with bamboo, &c., to rebuild their houses; -and rice, and other small articles, were sent to them by their more -fortunate neighbours. As soon as the fire commenced, every person who -could use a long-handled scoop, made of closely woven basket-work, -began throwing water on their houses, even on the opposite side of -the river. The floating houses moored along the shore near the fire, -were cast off, and it being the first of the ebb, they moved down the -river in great numbers. As many of them were on fire, they exhibited -a very novel but painful scene: four, unfortunately, were consumed, -with all their goods, and two China-men were burnt to death. On the -next flood, the river was filled with the floating houses returning. It -was predicted, by a superstitious Siamese, some days previously, that -a fire would take place, as a vulture was seen to alight on the house -of the port-captain. This officer's house, situated close to the Roman -Catholic church, was burnt--the latter building receiving no injury, -as the walls only are up; and, I suppose, from the great poverty of -the Catholic Christians, it will take many years to finish it. The old -Catholic church, in the rear, built of wood and attap, is in a very -dilapidated condition. There are four other churches at Bangkok and the -suburbs, and only one at Jutia--the rest have fallen into ruins. - -We landed, on the thirteenth, near the walls of the city, at the point -where one of the white elephants is confined: he was in a large, airy -stable, and had a great number of attendants. His colour is dusky, or -rather yellowish white, and he was far from being clean; his skin was -scurfy, and his eye very small, and of a bluish or light-gray tinge. On -account of his unruly temper, he is secured by a cable around his right -fore leg; the two fore feet are also well secured. One tusk is entirely -broken, and the other partly destroyed. He is annually confined, for -about three months, during the rutting season. We entered the city, -and saw part of the king's elephants. In one place were six noble -animals, males and females; two of the largest sized males had several -massive silver rings on their tusks; they were kept clean, and were in -fine order. There were many other elephant-stables, bordering on two -streets, which we visited. - -The streets, through which we passed, were from sixty to eighty feet in -breadth; the houses, generally, ordinary in appearance, built of boards -or brick, stuccoed, with tile roofs, or with bamboo with attap roofs. -Most of them are raised on posts, and stand five or six feet from the -ground. The streets are paved with very large-sized bricks. Stalls are -kept in front of most of the buildings, where are sold fowls and pork, -fruit and vegetables. The China, and Indian, and European goods, are -sold mostly in the floating bazars. There were few people to be seen. - -Our object in visiting the left bank of the river, was, to see an -immense edifice, in the form of a temple, which was erecting for the -purpose of burning the wang-na, generally called the second king, -who died about six months since; and whose body has been embalmed, -according to the imperfect knowledge of the Siamese in this art. The -body is first washed, and then a large quantity of crude mercury -or honey is poured into the mouth; it is then placed in a kneeling -posture, and the hands are brought together before the face in the -attitude of devotion; strips of cloth are then bound tightly round the -extremities, and the body is compressed in a similar manner, for the -purpose of squeezing out the moisture. It is then put into an air-tight -vessel, more or less expensive, according to the rank of the deceased; -(some of the vessels are even made of gold;) a hollow tube is inserted -into the mouth, passes through the upper part of the box and the roof -of the house, to convey away the effluvia; a similar tube is placed in -the bottom, which communicates with a vessel, placed there to receive -the draining from the body. The sordes thus collected, if they belong -to a prince, are conveyed, with many ceremonies, below the city, and -there emptied into the river. Should they belong to the king, they are -boiled until an oil separates, and this is used on certain occasions, -(as when his family or his descendants pay their devotions to his -departed spirit,) to anoint the singular image, called Seina, which is -generally placed in a temple, after his death. By the process, named -above, the body, in a few weeks, becomes quite dry and shrivelled. - -[Sidenote: IMMENSE TEMPLE.] - -I am fully sensible that any description I can give of the building -to which I have alluded, will fall far short of the reality; in fact -no language can convey an adequate description of it. The "_tout -ensemble_," when viewed at a distance, glittering in gold and flowers, -recalls to our recollection the brilliant and splendid castles of -fairy-land, so bewitchingly set forth in many an idle work of former -days. Many hundreds of people have been employed in its erection ever -since his death; the centre building is a large open dome, and probably -reaches to the height of eighty or ninety feet; it is supported by -immense wooden pillars of teak all in one piece--the roof is of various -indescribable forms, and differs from any I have ever seen--the parts -rise one above another till it comes to a point; from the centre rises -a high slender spire, and from the base to its apex cannot be less than -one hundred and fifty feet; the roof is covered with brass leaf, which -gives it a splendid appearance at a distance: it has a great number -of projections with various singular ornaments on their edges and the -inside of the roof is dome-shaped: beneath it was erected a small -temple, in the same form, having in the centre a high platform, to -which we ascended by a flight of steps, over which was a small spire: -it is supported upon four pillars and cannot be less than thirty-five -feet high--the roof is ornamented with neat carved work and richly -gilt--on the platform the body is to be burnt. The whole inside of -the building was painted to resemble flowers, profusely gilded, and -otherwise richly decorated with gold and silver leaf--the walls were -made of matting covered with paper and secured to bamboo-frames, as -well as the outer covering, which was painted brown, decorated with -large flowers made of brass or copper leaf and pasted on, which gave it -a brilliant appearance. Eight temples, one fourth of the size of the -great temple, stand about one hundred feet from it, so that the whole -forms a complete square, of rather less than five hundred feet on each -side; these are similarly gilt and painted, and are connected with each -other by a corridor inside; the covering outside is similar to the -great centre temple, being painted brown and overlaid with flowers. -Around the base of all these buildings are projections of about three -feet, like the base of a column, having imitation mouldings: these -are overlaid again with sheets of brass leaf, as well as the cornices -and architraves. The entrances to all the doors have a profusion of -gilt and painted ornaments as well as the base, shaft, capital, and -architrave of all the columns. The great building was surrounded at -proper intervals (so as not to appear crowded) with small temples -or sheds standing on four columns, and neatly gilt and ornamented. -A wide space on the east side was left open, on which were erected -very high narrow stages, neatly built, for the use of musicians, for -the exhibition of rope dancers, tumblers, and gladiators, or sword -fighters, pugilists, &c. At regular intervals were raised conical -umbrellas or a series of canopies, the lower one being about six feet -in diameter and each covering gradually lessening to the top, which -terminated in a point--they were about thirty feet in height and -alternately were of silver-leaf and brass-leaf, gilt, and ornamented -with flowers. The whole ground and passages were covered in with -bamboo framework, as well as the passage leading to the king's palace; -the latter had a covered walk or roof of the same material extending -the whole distance to the entrance within the enclosure. There were -four entrances through long passages to the temple-altar or place of -burning, and the whole building was surrounded with hideous images of -men about a foot high, low dwarf-trees being interspersed between them, -protected again by a low neat network railing of iron. - -[Sidenote: VISIT TO THE PRAKLANG.] - -On the fourteenth, we went to partake of a feast at the praklang's, in -company with Mr. Silveiro, the Portuguese consul, and Captain Geisinger -and the officers. This invitation was given about ten days since, -and renewed from time to time. It was conveniently arranged by the -praklang, as this day was set apart for shaving the heads of two of his -sons and a nephew. The feast could not have taken place without our -assistance, for they borrowed one of our cooks, the tables, tumblers, -wine-glasses, tureens, ladle, spoons, &c. We were informed they had no -wine, and, therefore, requested me to furnish the requisite quantity. -At three, covered barges were in waiting for us, and in a few minutes, -we found ourselves seated in the hall of audience; the praklang was -sitting in all his majesty, on a raised seat. The dinner was already -on the table. As soon as the usual compliments were over, and we had -sat down to dinner, music struck up within the house, accompanied by -female voices, which were good and natural, and the songs were not -unmusical, being rather of a plaintive cast. The court-yard, during the -feast, was thronged with people, who came, I suppose, "to see us eat," -and to see the officers in their uniforms; they were very orderly and -quiet, crouching to the ground. I have seen no instance, thus far, of -the slightest degree of rudeness, which was much and justly complained -of by Mr. Crawford and others, but quite the contrary: every mark of -respect has been shown. - -The dinner was dressed "à la Siamese and Portuguese." A stage was -erected in the court-yard for vaulters and tumblers; when the dessert -was produced, which consisted of some thirty dishes of confectionary -and fruit, they commenced their surprising feats. They consisted of -about a dozen, belong to the step-brother of the king, the prince -Cha-fa-Nooi, or Mum-fa-Nooi, and are the same that were exhibited at -the praklang's brother's, a few nights since. After the cloth was -removed, the king of Siam was given, as a toast by me, all standing; -and in return, the praklang proposed the President of the United -States, which was drunk likewise, all standing up. Two or three -complimentary toasts then followed. The tumblers continued their sports -for two hours, until sunset; then twelve young actors and actresses, -very richly clad, made their appearance, and performed pantomimes -and posture-dances, till past nine, when our party, being heartily -tired of the performances, begged leave to retire. Their sports, we -understood, were continued till after midnight; the music was the same -we had before. The three curtains, which conceal the entrances into -the interior of the house, were raised; when the players began, each -door appeared to be full of the minister's numerous wives, and in front -some dozens of his children, all bedecked with necklaces, bangles, -&c.; their skins being coloured with saffron or turmeric, for it is -considered here a great desideratum to have the skin of a light yellow. -The women were not generally so masculine in appearance as those we -saw abroad, and were of a lighter complexion, being less exposed. Some -of them appeared but a shade or two less than white. They were clad in -sombre-coloured silk waist and breast cloths, but wore no jewels; the -teeth of even the youngest were black as jet, and their lips and gums -of a livid hue. - -On the cutting of the hair from the crown of the male children, a -display is made by every person, however humble, from the firing of two -or three muskets to feasting, fireworks, dancing, music, and acting, -in all their varieties; presents are expected from all relatives, -acquaintances, and friends, which constitute a fund for the boy. A -similar amount of gifts is expected in return, upon a like occasion; -but a man high in office always has the best of the bargain. - -[Sidenote: PRESENTS.] - -To show the extreme indelicacy, in truth, grossness, of these people, -even among the higher classes, the captain of the port, Piedade, -was sent to me from the praklang, to say that the envoy from the -United States would of course make a present, as Mr. Crawford and -the Portuguese consul had done on a similar occasion; being placed -in rather a delicate situation, in regard to the treaty, having two -troublesome points unsettled, I complied with this piece of spunging, -and gave a hundred silver dollars, which were presented to the praklang -in the course of the afternoon, in a gold vase, by the general of -artillery, Benedito, with a complimentary message from me, wishing -that his children might be useful members of society, virtuous and -happy, &c. It was highly ludicrous, yet most disgusting, to see the -general of the eleven ranks of nobility, who stands second in order, -viz.: a _phaya_, crawling like a dog on all fours, dressed in a -striped silk cloak, bound round with heavy gold lace, of the fashion -of the fifteenth century, shoving the vase before him, till he came to -the praklang, and delivering it, making his obeisance to the ground -with hands united; then _backing out_ of "the presence," in the same -degrading position, till he reached me, to return the great man's -thanks. The vase was then taken just beyond our table, (one step below, -for every step, in fact, has its appropriate rank,) and delivered to -two persons, one of whom, I suppose, was the treasurer, the other the -Moorish or Chuliah secretary, who always makes his appearance, crawling -on all fours, with his black paper, slate, and pencil, whenever there -is any business to be transacted. The money was counted within our -sight, and reported to the praklang to be _all right_!!! It was but a -few days previous to this, that an elegant gold watch, set in pearls, -two cases of silks, and four elegant fillagreed silver baskets, edged -with gold, and ornamented with enamelled figures, had been presented by -me to the praklang, which I intended to deliver at the conclusion of -the treaty; but he having obtained information, by some means, that I -had a present for him, sent Piedade to inquire of what it consisted, -_and the cost_; the next day he returned, with the eldest son of the -praklang, who is one of the four household officers of the king, being -the second in rank, and called, "Luang-nai-Sit," requesting to have -them examined and an inventory taken, which was done; a hint was then -thrown out by the captain of the port, that it would facilitate my -business, if the praklang had his presents. It was evidently improper -to give them, until those intended for the king were presented; but I -complied with it, satisfied in my own mind it was done _by command_. -They were presented the same afternoon, on gold vases, when I went to -discuss certain points in the treaty. - -The king's presents, consisting of silks, elegant watches set in -pearls, and very superior silver fillagreed baskets, with gold rims, -and enamelled with birds and flowers, were shown at the same time, -at their request, and an inventory of them taken also; again they -inquired the cost of them, made some remarks respecting the colour of -the silk, and said that some other colour would have suited the king -better; that the reason why they were ordered to examine the articles -was, to know if they were _suitable_ presents to give the king. Having -expressed some slight degree of indignation at their gross conduct, -they said, such were their orders from the praklang, and that Major -Burney--who succeeded Mr. Crawford, in finally making a better treaty -with them than was ever made before, although it was effected after a -long negotiation, by the sacrifice of the personal liberty of the king -of Quedah, and their great fear of the English government, who possess -the key of their country, in holding possession of most of the strong -holds of the Burman empire, as well as Malacca and Singapore, and their -possessions at Pulo Penang--brought, among other articles, a parcel -of painted boxes, &c., which they rejected. After a slight personal -knowledge of three weeks only with this people, I infer that they are -extremely disingenuous and fickle-minded, because many articles of the -treaty, passed and agreed upon in the evening, have the following day -been subverted, or the strength of the language so materially weakened, -as to take away nearly its whole force. That they are great intriguers, -past history will confirm: the present king, the illegitimate son -of the late monarch, by the sudden death of his father, aided by -bribes, placed himself on the throne, to the exclusion of the eldest -legitimate son, who, on the death of his father, fled the place, and -became a Talapoy to save his life. Cha-fa-Nooi, the next in succession, -has a small stipend allowed him, and lives in what is called the -Portuguese fort, opposite the city: his life is safe, as long as his -eldest brother lives. - -That these people are highly superstitious, is shown by their constant -watching for the flight of vultures, and the worshipping of idols; -and the ten thousand follies attached to the Budhist religion, is -sufficient evidence. That they are servile, is a necessary consequence, -arising out of their despotic government. Subordination of rank is -carried to a most degrading and revolting point; true politeness -therefore is destroyed; they are abject in the extreme to superiors, -and most insolent and disdainful to inferiors. It appears to be -impossible for an inferior, to stand erect and manly, in presence of a -superior: they are sluggish, ignoble and crouching. A people who are -habitually crawling upon their knees and elbows, and performing "the -knock-head ceremony," cannot be otherwise than ungraceful and inelegant -in their manners. If they were allowed to carry arms, they would be -constrained to be civil and polite to each other; but custom sanctions -the right of avenging private wrongs. They are a most extravagantly -vain people; are reputed to be very deficient in courage; excessively -lascivious and immoral; of which proofs are presented at every step. -Temporary marriages are so notorious, that to sell a daughter wholly to -a stranger, or for a stipulated term of time, is as common among the -middling and lower classes of people, as to sell any common commodity, -usually to be found in a bazar. Custom has also fixed a certain price -for a certain rank. It is said by Mr. Gutzlaff, that they are in -expectation of the coming of the Saviour of mankind, and that the -people who are to effect a change in their religion, are to come from -the West, (meaning Europe and America.) - -If the overturn of an idle, superstitious and debauched priesthood -like the Talapoys, (or Talapoins,) who are said to amount to upward -of ten thousand generally, in Bang-kok and its neighbourhood, can be -effected, what a glorious field will there be opened, to enlighten a -nation who are not blood-thirsty or revengeful, but naturally mild and -tractable, and exceedingly charitable to distressed objects. They are -willing to be instructed, and gladly accept of any books in their own -language, which are presented to them. A better form of government -would of course make them a better people, but they are now bowed down -by oppression, and their highly productive soil is almost untilled, -because the hard earnings of the labourer are wrung from him by the -rapacious cruelty of his rulers. I omitted to say, that during the -evening's entertainment at the praklang's, a brown, highly varnished, -and gilt seat, was brought in and covered with carpets, cushions, &c., -and placed on the floor a short distance from where we were sitting, -and shortly after, (preceded by crawling slaves,) a sword-bearer, -others carrying highly wrought gold vases, containing areca and a -water goblet, a small tea apparatus, &c.; then followed the prince -Cha-fa-Nooi, or Mom-fa Nooi, and, without any ceremony whatever, took -possession of the seat without noticing in any degree the praklang: -when the prince entered, the praklang left his usual seat, which was of -the same height as the prince's, and seated himself on the floor, with -his feet resting on a broad landing, leading to the upper floor: this -is an acknowledgment of inferiority in rank. On this landing, at his -feet, reposed the praklang's son and brother, and a step below, were -his chubah, secretary, &c., &c.: actors beneath the last, and a host of -crawlers. The prince retired after sitting a short time, but without -noticing his host, who immediately returned to the upper or highest -seat. - -During the afternoon of the feast of the entertainment, the supercargo, -a Chuliah, belonging to the English brig Highland Chief, Captain Henry, -from Madras, came crawling in on all fours from the inner gate, and -presented, on salvers, some coarse Indian calicoes and lawns. They -were received with a sullen air, and I could not perceive that the -slightest notice was taken of them, when the praklang was informed of -the present. This same supercargo was one of the crouchers, placed on -the seat with the captain of the port, when we paid the introductory -visit to the minister. - -[Sidenote: FOX-BATS.] - -I went to visit the great resort of the fox-bats, on a branch of the -river leading to the sea. We found them in immense numbers within the -grounds owned by mendicant Talapoys, whereon were many temples in a -state of ruin. These birds were hanging by their claws, head downward, -where they remain during the day, occupying the limbs of many hundreds -of large trees. Having procured some, we measured one, and found it -was forty-three inches in length, measuring from one extremity of its -wings to the other: it has the head of a fox; the body is covered with -long hair, and it has a most unsavoury, strong, foxy smell; it uses its -teeth when fighting, but its main defence is in a hooked claw, placed -at the middle joint of the wings, by which it occasionally suspends -itself. In walking about the grounds of the pagodas, we observed -hundreds of small conical mounds, which had been moulded by a form made -of plantain stock, and surmounted by small paper flags fastened to a -slender rod; these were said to be offerings made by some votaries of -Budhistical nonsense. - -In passing up the river a day or two since, we saw a snake of about -twelve feet in length, and about eight inches in circumference; he was -swimming about close to our boat, and did not appear to notice us, -excepting when we struck at him with a paddle. Crows, vultures, and -sparrows, abound every where, and we find the former very annoying to -us, occupying the trees in the area of our house, pouncing upon the -cooks' premises, continually, and carrying off large pieces of meat -or fish. The most common reptiles about our premises are lizards; -several beautiful species are found every where. We have, among -others, the tokay or ghecko in great numbers. This name is given to -it here from its singular harsh and monotonous cry, which sounds -like its name, to-kay. Throughout the night, these noises are made -at intervals, probably of half an hour, commencing with a loud cry, -and gradually growing weaker, making pauses of perhaps five or six -seconds, between the cries; they are repeated from three to nine or -ten times before exhaustion takes place. These reptiles are frequently -seen eighteen inches in length, having red and light-green spots, -with many tubercles. Fish are abundant in the Menam, and the Siamese, -notwithstanding their pretended aversion to taking animal life, do -not hesitate to eat fish, flesh, or fowl, if it is killed for them. -All these articles are sold daily. Beef is not to be had but there is -plenty of pork. Fruit is by no means abundant here at this season, -although this is said to be the greatest fruit country in all Asia. -A few small mangoes have made their appearance, but the stones are -so large that little fruit is to be found on them. We have seen no -oranges excepting those brought by China junks--a few poor watermelons -and guavas, which are a tasteless fruit, and plantains, bananas, and -cocoa-nuts: the latter are in abundance, and the water from the young -ones is very refreshing. - -[Sidenote: FRUITS.] - -Here, for the first time, I tasted the water of a certain delicious -kind of cocoa-nut, which was frequently sent by his majesty; it was -highly flavoured, and tasted like burnt almonds. Oil is made in large -quantities, and is used, when fresh, for cooking, burning, and for -anointing the skin, and nourishing the hair. A little later, and -the delicious mangosteen will be ripe, the orange, the durian, the -pineapple, and lichi, will be in abundance, besides all the other -tropical fruits common to this climate. The only vegetables we have yet -seen on our table are the sweet potatoe, yam, garlic, onion, Indian -corn, beans, peas, and _celery_, which latter is used in soups only. - -The valley of the Menam produces marsh-rice, of various qualities, and -in the greatest abundance; it is often exported in large quantities, -by license from the king. Rice is almost the only article of food used -by the inhabitants; this vegetable is mixed with a little balachang -and compound of shrimps, or the spawn of shrimps, or small fish, mixed -with salt, and dried in the sun, and then moistened with fish-pickle: -it is not only unsavoury to Europeans, but some of it is most offensive -to the smell. The inhabitants have but two meals a day, in the morning -and evening; the richer add tea, which is drunk in great quantities, -without sugar or milk, during the day. Chewing areca and smoking -cigars, are common to all, even among small children, and both are -constantly used during their waking hours. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - PRESENTATION AT THE PALACE OF BANG-KOK--DESCRIPTION--ROYAL - ELEPHANT--WHITE ELEPHANTS--KING OF SIAM--GREAT TEMPLE OF - GUATAMA--CITY OF BANG-KOK--TEMPLE OF WAT-CHAN-TONG, AND FIGURE OF - BUDHA--BANYAN TREE--FIRE-FEEDERS--MISSIONARIES. - - -[Sidenote: PRESENTATION AT THE PALACE.] - -On Monday, the eighteenth, arrangements having been previously made, -three large boats were sent by the praklang, to convey us to the -palace, for the purpose of being presented to his majesty. On the -previous evening, the second praklang, or the phaya-phiphat kossa, -with a long train of attendants, came to visit us, with the ostensible -object of talking farther respecting certain articles, which the -praklang wished to have altered in the treaty. After a few minutes' -conversation upon this subject, the audience of the king was spoken -of, and he said that certain ceremonies, according to court etiquette, -must be observed on our visit. I replied, that every proper respect -would, of course, be shown to his majesty; but that nothing mean or -servile must be expected. He then said, on our entrance into the hall -of audience, on passing the screen, three bows were expected in the -European style; that, on sitting down, in the Asiatic style, (as no -chairs are there ever used,) our feet must be placed behind us, that -three bows were then to be made, by uniting the hands and touching the -forehead, and lowering them to the breast. Seeing nothing unreasonable -or degrading in this formality, it was agreed to, excepting that we -refused to bow the head, like the Siamese. On the king's naming us -personally, we were to bow in the usual style of recognisance with -us; and when the curtain was drawn on his appearance, we were to make -three such bows, as might suit us. This was all very well; and I was -glad to find the taking off the shoes was not spoken of, and entering -in a stooping position, which could not have been complied with, as -it was by Mr. Crawford, when on a mission a few years since, who, to -effect his purpose, (in which he totally failed,) complied with their -insulting demands. The Siamese amuse themselves with talking upon -this subject even now, and say, that the gentlemen belonging to the -mission, were obliged to walk ankle deep in mud and water; that some -of them lost their shoes, they being thrown away purposely by the -Siamese servants; of course, by order of their masters. Once or twice, -the subject was named to me, and I severely reproved them for their -disgraceful conduct. Major Burney, it seems, on a more recent mission, -agreed to comply with the demand of taking off his shoes, but on the -condition that he kept on his hat: they, however, preferred he should -keep on his shoes, and take off his hat. - -Our mode of conveyance from the water-side to the palace, was agreed -upon previously, viz.: A palanquin, with eight bearers, dressed in red -uniforms, and caps to correspond, was to be provided for myself, and -ten horses for the other gentlemen, properly caparisoned, according -to rank. We embarked at nine o'clock, and were, in a few minutes, at -the palace-stairs. Spectators were numerous, in the floating houses -and boats, on our way; and on landing, the place was thronged with -them, leaving sufficient space, however, for the procession, there -being officers in attendance to keep the multitude in order. However, -every thing was well conducted, and without noise. Excellent horses, -handsomely caparisoned, with elegant saddles and silk bridles, -breastplate and head-stall, ornamented with various-coloured gems, -decked in rich embroidery, were provided: each horse was led by one of -the king's servants. - -The procession moved on, the envoy being placed in front, through two -long streets, passing a gate of the city, and finally arrived at one of -the gates to the palace-yard, where we found a guard, dressed in red -broadcloth coats, and waist-cloths of every colour, with and without -hats and caps, bearing muskets with black barrels and red stocks. We -proceeded to the hall of justice, where we dismounted. - -Fronting the building, were ten large elephants, well caparisoned, -having a guide on their necks, with his hook and spear fixed to a -staff, while another sat on the rump with a similar weapon; and in -the centre, a standard-bearer, having a spear, to which was attached -a long tassel of elephant's hair: these men wore red turbans and -neat parti-coloured dresses, well fitted to the shape. We ascended -two or three steps to a landing, which was crowded with people of -various descriptions: from this we advanced one step, which led to the -floor, being escorted by the officers in waiting, by Col. Pasqual, -and others. We were desired to wait a short time, till his majesty -had arrived in the hall, which was at a short distance. The floor was -covered with a good Persian carpet, apparently made for the place. -Among others present, were ten Pequan officers of rank, sitting on the -landing, outside the pillars which supported the roof, for none were -permitted to be on the floor where we were but the interpreters, and -these, according to etiquette, sat on the floor. The Pequan officers -were dressed in gold-flowered crimson silk, and long jackets, reaching -below the knee, and turbans of silk of the same colour, trimmed with -gold fringe: all were sitting in the Asiatic style. Having waited some -time, we were told the king was ready to receive us. In proceeding to -the hall, through a very spacious and extensive yard, we saw, on our -right, drawn out, standing on a grass-plot, under high canopies, eight -other elephants, richly caparisoned, having no riders, but plenty of -attendants. We passed on--preceded by a number of Chuliahs, or Moors, -having elegant silk dresses, reaching to the feet, and turbans, some -of flowered crimson: others with white silk having gold flowers, and -turbans of the same--through several hundred musicians, in red coats -and caps. In the rear were soldiers, placed in pens, in a crouching -posture, armed with spears and shields, with the interpreters and -peace-officers. The music, consisting of drums, brass horns, trumpets, -&c., &c., struck up a most deafening noise, on our entering within -their lines, which ceased when we arrived within the walls of the hall. - -Every thing was conducted with the utmost decorum. Just before reaching -the hall, we passed a most noble spotted elephant--he had four massive -gold rings, which must have weighed several pounds each, studded with -jewels, secured around each tusk: a raised seat, a foot or two above -the ground, was fixed for him to stand on, because he was a royal -elephant, and could only be mounted by the king: a servant was feeding -him with fresh cut grass and bananas. Facing us was part of the king's -stud of fine Arabian horses, placed under a high shed, richly, and -in fact, superbly dressed, attended by their keepers, which we were -requested to admire. The spectacle thus far was quite imposing, and it -seems every thing had been arranged to make a favourable impression. -The elephants were placed in those positions, where they would show -to the greatest advantage--as well as the king's stud of horses, the -immense number of military with a vast many officers richly clad, many -of them being most splendidly dressed--the singular unique style of -architecture of the king's palace--a large number of cannon placed -under open sided sheds, the hall of audience, &c., &c., illumined by a -brilliant sun and an unclouded sky, gave to every thing an Asiatic and -novel appearance. - -[Sidenote: AUDIENCE OF KING.] - -We entered at length the vestibule through a line of soldiers, and -passed to the right of a Chinese screen of painted glass, into the -presence of his majesty. There lay prostrate, or rather on all fours -resting on their knees and elbows, with hands united and head bowed -low, all the princes and nobility of the land: it was an impressive -but an abasing sight, such as no freeman could look on, with any other -feelings than those of indignation and disgust. We halted in front of -the presents which were delivered the day previous, being piles of -silks, rich fillagreed silver baskets, elegant gold watches studded -with large pearls: they were well disposed to make a show. Having gone -through the first ceremony of bowing, we sat down on a carpet: on our -being seated the prostrate slaves around us (being the great men of -the land) bowed simultaneously three times to the ground, in a slow -solemn manner, and we joined in the ceremony as had been previously -agreed upon. The king was seated under a canopy, in the Asiatic style, -on a cushion of red silk velvet, on the lower and more advanced of -the two thrones, which occupied the upper end of the apartment: this -was a square seat raised some half dozen feet from the floor. Every -thing was blazing in gold, in and about the two thrones: the larger -and unoccupied one was of an hexagonal shape, and resembled a church -pulpit, so that the king's person when seated in it, can be visible -only through the open spaces, in the form of Gothic windows, about four -feet in height by one and a half and two in width. One of these windows -is in front, and one on each side of the throne. A pair of curtains of -gold cloth formed a partition between him and several individuals of -the royal family, who lay crouching just without, on separate carpets, -leaving a wide open space between the throne and the two interpreters, -who were midway of the hall. Before the curtain and on either side, -were eight or ten umbrellas of various sizes: these consist of a series -of canopies of eight or ten tiers, decreasing in size upward. - -His majesty is a very stout fleshy man, apparently about forty-five -years of age, of a pleasing countenance. He was dressed in a cloth of -gold tissue around the waist, while a mantle was thrown gracefully -over the left shoulder. Four noblemen's sons were seated at the base -of the throne, at the rear and sides, having long-handled pear-shaped -fans, richly gilt, which they kept in constant motion. A few questions -were addressed by the king in an audible voice: they were repeated -in a lower tone by the phaya phiphat, or second praklang, to the -phaya churat, or chief of the Chuliahs, by whom they were whispered -to the captain of the port, who interpreted them to us in the same -low tone--the answers were returned through the same channels by us; -inquiring, in the first place, as to the health of the President -and all the great men in our country--our own healths--those of the -officers and crew--how long we had been from America--where we had -been, and whence bound--desiring me to acquaint the praklang with all -my wants, that they might be supplied, &c., &c., &c. The curtain was -now drawn and his majesty disappeared; the court made three solemn -kotows, and we our three salams, and then retired. The hall is probably -one hundred and twenty feet in length by sixty in breadth, and has -seven or eight stout square pillars on each side, probably built of -brick and stuccoed, which support the roof; the highest part of the -ceiling must be thirty-five or forty feet, is painted vermillion, -having gilt starlike ornaments: the pillars and sides of the wall -were painted so as to resemble paper hangings, and were altogether in -bad taste: common looking-glasses, and ordinary European paintings of -men with frizzled and powdered hair, were placed against the wall. -The floor was covered with a new kidderminster carpet, such as may be -bought in the United States for about a dollar and a quarter a yard; in -fact there was no richness or elegance displayed; excepting about the -throne there were neither jewels nor costly workmanship: the dress of -the king himself was by no means extraordinary. - -We were surrounded by Siamese, Cambojans, Burmese, Pequans, Malays, -Chinese, Cochin-Chinese, Moors, and people of Lao, dressed all in -the costumes of their respective countries, but all of them at the -disposal of the "master of lives," as the king of Siam is styled. It -was before observed, that the princes were nearest the throne, on a -separate carpet; behind them, on another carpet, were the praklang and -the higher officers of state, as precedence is decided here by relative -vicinity to the throne: the lowest officers admitted, are those at the -very entrance of the hall. When the courtiers enter, they crawl in on -all fours, and, when dismissed, crawl out again backward, "à la crab," -or "à la lobster;" and when the numbers are great, their appearance is -most ludicrous. During the audience the utmost silence was observed by -the courtiers; not an eye was even cast toward us until it was ended. -One would suppose that all who were there present, were assembled -before the throne of Him who is to _sit_ in judgment at the latter day, -rather than before a temporal monarch; there were such a stillness and -solemnity at times, that the scene was quite oppressive. The audience, -which lasted about half an hour, being ended, his majesty ordered us to -be shown the white and other elephants, the temples, &c., within the -palace-walls. - -On our exit from the building, the music again struck up and ended -when we passed the lines. We were first conducted by the interpreters -and some half dozen officers, to the stables of the more valuable -elephants, kept within the enclosure. The first shown to us was the -sacred white elephant, a more gentle and peaceable character than the -one secured without the walls, near the river; he was much whiter -also, but this might be owing to his being kept cleaner, his eyes were -larger, sound, and healthy in appearance, and the skin free from scurf. -I was particularly requested to feed him with bananas and sugar-cane, -which he received from my hands most gently, rubbing his long proboscis -once over the back of my hand and then made three salams with his -trunk. Fresh cut grass was placed in small bundles before him, and when -annoyed by the flies and moschetoes, he would take a wisp and brush -his legs, throwing it afterward on his back. In this stall was a white -monkey, of the size of a small dog, a perfect Albino, the iris, pink, -&c., &c.; he was kept in a cage, and appeared never to be quiet for -a single second. We passed on to four other stalls, which contained -spotted elephants; they are noble animals, and I consider them more -worthy of notice than the white ones. We passed on to the great temple -of the palace, which was repairing, where Budha sat enthroned on high, -of a gigantic size, shining with gold and yellow cloths, and protected -with a yellow umbrella. The walls were covered with historical -paintings, relative to the wanderings of Rama; and the outer courts -were filled with descript and non-descript animals of all sorts, in -plaster, stone, and marble. Within the columns, plates of artificial -fruits were placed; the favourite lotus was growing in large ornamented -stone and porcelain vases, and there were artificial ones in stone. Two -warriors, of immense size, guarded the entrance as usual. The doors -were splendidly adorned with mother-of-pearl, inlaid so as to represent -flowers and fruit of various elegant devices. The thermometer being at -nearly a hundred, we remained but a short time, being much exhausted by -fatigue and the intense heat of the sun. We returned in the same order -in which we came, being much gratified with our reception, and rejoiced -that it was at an end. - -[Sidenote: PRIESTS--INUNDATIONS.] - -I have frequently asked the question, How many priests there are -belonging to the different pagodas? The answer has been always, -sometimes ten, and sometimes twenty thousand; there is no particular -number. Pray, what is the cause of this great difference in numbers, -at different times? Oh! it depends altogether upon the price of rice; -if rice is abundant, priests are fewer in number than when it is -scarce; for a great number of them enter the priesthood for a short -time only, when they have nothing to eat: this is the reason, why there -are so many small boys dressed in yellow, because their parents have -no food for them. During the great inundation of 1831, the number of -priests doubled, in consequence of the scarcity of provisions. This -vicinity was, until that time, remarkable for the great abundance and -variety of its excellent fruit. In the course of three months, during -which the country was so submerged, it was almost totally destroyed, -as well as the crops of rice and cane. In speaking one day of the -extreme servility of the lower classes to the higher, I was informed, -that the praklang, in coming out of his house during the overflow of -the river, always had the usual homage paid to him by the people, of -kneeling or stooping when he passed them; and that they have been -frequently seen so deeply immersed in water, as to be obliged to rise -a little to prevent its entering their mouths, and suffocating them. -This degrading homage, I have seen frequently paid him by his eldest -son, Luang-nai-Sit, crawling on all fours into his father's presence, -and bowing his head to the ground, with united hands. He is about -twenty-five years of age--has several wives and many children; he is -of an inquiring mind, but said to be very intriguing and cringing to -those who can promote his interests. He says, "his father frequently -sends for him to breakfast, and the constrained position in which he -is placed (on all fours) prevents his eating much, he, therefore, -unfortunately suffers before he can obtain his dinner." - -Among the queer articles of export from this place to China, are -snake-skins, which are there used for musical instruments principally, -and also for medicinal purposes. Many of the reptiles, from which these -are taken, are of large size; and it is said are upward of thirty feet -in length, and wide in proportion. The floating houses on the river, -when sunk nearly to the water's edge, by the decaying of the bamboos -on which they rest, are frequently annoyed with them, for they are -always in search of poultry. Among other methods of taking them, is -this: a chicken is placed at the further end of a bamboo coop, near -the door, over-night; a hole is made in this coop of a sufficient size -to admit the entrance of a snake of fifteen or twenty feet in length; -if the reptile enter, after having gorged himself with his prey, he is -unable to get out, and is then easily killed. The skin is then dried, -and rolls of it are found suspended from the ceiling of the floating -shops. The entire carcasses of tigers are also exported to China, -for the people of that country ignorantly suppose them to possess -great medicinal qualities. Last year, sixty carcasses paid duties on -exportation, besides a large number smuggled; they are generally in a -very putrid state long before they are shipped. - -The thick hide of the rhinoceros is also another article of export to -the same country, and by a peculiar process, it is made into, and used -as a nutritious jelly. - -[Sidenote: BUDHA--CANALS.] - -_March twenty-seventh._ Reconnoitring in my boat yesterday evening, -on the left bank of the river, up one of the numerous canals, we saw -under a common shed, a short distance from a wat or temple, a number -of idols. We stepped on shore to examine them, and at the feet of the -great idol, lay a poor wretch, dying with the confluent small-pox; -his bloated features and his person, covered with pustules, made him -a disgusting object; he had crawled thither that morning, and had -brought half a dozen saucers of sweetmeats, cooked rice, and fruit, and -placed them on the lap of Budha, praying no doubt most fervently, that -he would be pleased to cure him of his foul disease: but his cries were -of no avail to this gilded block of wood, although they lasted from -morning until eventide; for he died that night, at the feet of Budha. - -_March twenty-eighth._ This morning, it being very high water, we -entered on the canal which runs near to the southern wall of the city; -passing along it, about a mile and a quarter, we turned to the left, -and proceeding along about the same distance, we again shot out into -the main river: thus taking a complete circuit of the city. The wall -is about twenty feet in height; not a piece of cannon was seen, nor -even a solitary sentry taking his weary round; but a number of canals -passed under the wall, and were filled with market-boats: there are no -portcullises ready to drop, in case of a rebellion, or the invasion of -an enemy; these canals, therefore, offer a ready and easy entrance. The -houses in the suburbs in many places, are built immediately against -the walls. No defence could be made, against even a small disciplined -force, for there is no regular military force in the kingdom; the -soldiers are never drilled with muskets, the government being unwilling -to trust them with arms in their hands: their mode of warfare is -altogether desultory. Many parts of the canal which surrounds the -city, were much crowded with pedlars' boats, containing coarse cloth, -paper, brass, and iron utensils, &c.; others with salt, sapan-wood, -cotton in small baskets, areca-nut, siri-leaf, chunam, coloured with -turmeric, dried fish, oil, sugar, balachang, fresh pork, fish, fruit, -and vegetables. - -The back of the city bore, altogether, a rural appearance; the banks -were thickly settled, people of all ages were bathing, washing at the -same time their simple dresses; children were seen asleep in short -square-net hammocks, and the mother lying at full length on a mat, -chewing areca-nut, or smoking a cigar, propelling with her foot the -hanging cradle; the cat and dog lay stretched also at full length on -the platform, overcome with the intense heat of the day; the banks -were, however, well shaded by the many trees which occupied every -vacant place. The mango, now fully laden with its oblong green fruit; -the religious fig-tree with its broad and pointed leaf; the plantain -bending beneath the weight of its fruit; the areca-palm with its -slender and regular stem, and brush-like head; and the useful cocoa-nut -and bamboo, were seen towering in every direction. We visited a number -of the king's boat-houses, and saw a canoe one hundred and five feet -long, made from a single teak-tree, excepting the high curved stem and -stern; we saw also, hundreds of useless boats, most of them intended -for war, while others were for pleasure, being neatly gilded about each -quarter. The war-boats would be altogether useless in a sea-fight. - -[Sidenote: TEMPLE OF WAT-CHAN-TONG.] - -_March thirtieth._ Yesterday we visited a wat or pagoda, built by -the present king, when he was prince Chroma Chiat; it is called -wat-chan-tong, or "the temple of the golden sandal tree;" it is -situated about six or seven miles from the outlet of Bang-kok Yai, -into the Menam. The company consisted of the Rev. Mr. Jones, and -Doctor Ticknor; a boat and rowers were sent to us by the praklang. -The buildings are more substantial, and in better order, than any -I have heretofore seen; hewn granite steps and pillars were about -the principal entrances; the floors of the temples were of marble -tessellated; the walls leading to the temples, and the dwellings of -the Talapoys, were of square pieces of split granite; and there was a -greater air of neatness about them, than any we have yet viewed. Noble -banyan, and the religious fig-tree, shaded the walks; large porcelain -figures of men, and non-descript beasts, embellished the fronts of -churches, the entrances into the outer courts. - -There are two islets near to the landing place, having on them -miniature temples, and small images, overshadowed by noble banyan -trees, which are to be found in great abundance every where in the -vicinity of Bang-kok. It is one of the most curious of nature's -productions: each full-sized tree is a grove; for every branch, on -reaching the ground, vegetates and increases to a large trunk, and -these again send forth others, till, from old age and exhaustion, the -parent dies, and the progeny gradually decay for want of sustenance, -leaving a forest in ruins. It affords most beautiful walks, vistas, -and cool recesses; and bears a small fig, which is scarlet when ripe, -and affords a luxuriant repast to monkeys and peacocks, and other -birds, which inhabit this father of trees, that shades and protects -their young, in cool recesses, from a burning sun, where they sport -and idle their leisure hours away, free from cares, excepting from -the mischievous monkey, which robs them of their eggs, or the wily -serpent, that beguiles them of their tender progeny. - -The principal wat is occupied by a colossal figure of Budha, lying on -his right side, supported by the elbow and hand, and seven square and -triangular pillows, with ornamented ends of coloured glass. It is of -the enormous length of _sixty-three_ feet, having on its head a high -peaked cap. The "phra-bat," or "holy feet," are each six feet nine -inches in length, having five toes, all of equal length, being one less -than the Budha of the Burmese. It is made of brick and stuccoed; but -overlaid with heavy gilding, highly burnished. It was covered, on its -exposed or left side, with yellow, or talapoy cloth, and canopied by -an enormous yellow umbrella. Many priests and young students of the -monastery accompanied us. They were asked why the idol was protected -with cloths, and the umbrella? They replied, that the great Budha -would be offended if neglected, and he ought to be kept warm. As the -thermometer was little short of one hundred, and we were panting for -breath, with the perspiration running from us in streams, they were -told that all clothing was oppressive; but they said, they dared not -neglect him. They were also asked, how long he was to lie? They said, -about three thousand years, when Budha would be annihilated, or his -authority rather would cease. - -The ceiling of the wat was painted of a rich vermillion, and "thickly -inlaid with patines of bright gold." The walls, and inside of the doors -and window-shutters, were entirely covered with rural and aquatic -scenes, birds, flowers, &c., &c.; all rich with gold and beautiful -colours, highly varnished, displaying a cultivated taste. The doors, -at the entrance, were most splendidly inlaid with mother-of-pearl, -wrought into various and elegant devices. Surrounding the wall of the -court-yard, was an extensive corridor, containing eighty Budhas, of -about four feet high, in a sitting posture generally, while others -were standing. At the feet of each were two smaller sized devotees, -kneeling and facing them, with their hands spread out and united in -the attitude of prayer. These, together with a group of eight in one -corner, made, altogether, two hundred and forty-six images, being all -highly burnished with gold. Other images, of women, are scattered about -the court; and the two gigantic warriors, as usual, placed as guards at -its common entrance. The Indian lotus was growing in handsome vases of -granite, porcelain, and marble. There was also a large gilt image in a -sitting posture, made of a composition of copper, tin, and zinc. The -ceiling, walls, &c., were nearly similarly painted to the other, having -a tessellated marble pavement; but the doors were painted black, with -borders of richly gilded flowers. A devotee had taken up his lodging -within the temple, near one of the doors, and was then praying at the -feet of the image. He passed his days there, and at night watered his -couch with his tears, in the vain expectation that, at his death, Budha -would cause his soul to be transmigrated into a higher and holier state -of existence. - -There were about one hundred and fifty Talapoys generally at this -monastery. Here, also, was a small deep bathing place, having in it a -number of small alligators--they are common. We passed a great number -of temples, and counted twenty-five on this route. The banks were -thickly inhabited, having a low but rich country; and the various fruit -and flowering forest trees, by which it was overshadowed, contributed -greatly to its beautiful scenery. Boats were continually passing in -great numbers, variously laden. The fronts of the cottages being open, -all the domestic operations were fully seen. At the foot of the ladder, -childhood and old age were seen, bathing in the turbid waters of this -tributary of the Menam, all seemingly happy, although living under one -of the most despotic governments in the world. - -On our return, observing an artificial mound near a small wat with a -gilded front, we were induced to stop and examine it; it was in height -about twenty feet, built of brick and overlaid with rough pieces of -rock. We entered by a flight of steps into some dark winding passages -in imitation of caverns--on the step was a small temple court and a -relic of gautama, which we were unable to see owing to the Talapoy who -had charge of it being asleep. The thermometer being at ninety-five, -with a dead oven-like heat, we were glad to retreat to some cooler -place. Proceeding on by another route, we saw a number of Talapoys, -collected near to a place for the burning of the dead, under a high -pyramidal shed placed amid a grove of the religious fig-tree: we landed -and proceeded to the spot. In the centre of the building, on a brick -platform, was placed a bier of seven or eight feet in height--the sides -which concealed the body were covered with white muslin and the top, -&c., ornamented with yellow tinsel; the bier, I suppose, was of wood, -but it was neatly covered with plantain stock, and being fresh cut -resembled ivory with a slight tinge of yellow: fanciful devices were -cut in the sides and red paper inserted, which gave it a very neat -and finished appearance. In each corner were raised platforms, and -on one of them sat fifteen or twenty Talapoys, having before them a -feast of nice things, such as rice cooked in various ways, sweetmeats -and fruits, and a pile of yellow cloth, all of which were presents, -from the parents of a dead daughter, lying before these senseless -worshippers of idols. They were talking aloud and laughing, apparently -insensible to the solemn occasion for which they were assembled: being -disgusted with their conduct, and finding that the ceremony would not -take place until three in the afternoon, we left the place intending to -return in due time. - -[Sidenote: FIRE-FEEDERS.] - -At the appointed hour, we were again there, but the burning had -commenced half an hour previously: a part of the scull was remaining, -the head having separated from the body: the back bone was nearly -entire as well as part of the limbs; two grim looking fellows were -replenishing and stirring the fire with three-pronged forks, smoking -cigars, and laughing as though they were attending a baker's oven. They -were constantly employed in going from this funeral pile to another, -situated in the open air, a short distance off, where was consuming the -body of a dead slave. - -Besides the "fire-feeders," there was assembled a party of young -females, acquaintances of the deceased girl, waiting to collect the -unconsumed bones, that they might be conveyed to the mourning parents: -they were decent in their behaviour, but there were no visible signs -of grief on their countenances at this sad spectacle; they were seated -on one of the raised platforms, chewing areca-nut, and talking with -considerable earnestness--but the instant they saw us, they started on -their feet, and exhibited very strong symptoms of curiosity; probably, -many of them had never seen a white person before, and our dress, of -course, appeared strange to those who were only accustomed to the sight -of a waist-cloth. They inquired of a gentleman who spoke Siamese and -English, if we came to see a body burnt, or what was the object of our -visit: we told them it was to see a body burnt, and to view the temple -near by. They asked us to look at the remains, on the funeral pile, and -see if we could tell whether it was a male or female, (for the natives -are under the impression that Europeans know every thing, and all the -European race even if born in America, are called Europeans.) They were -told after taking a view of them, that they were those of a female. At -this answer, they held up their hands, and appeared to be exceedingly -astonished, for they were not aware that we had ascertained this fact -in the morning. We immediately left them, not wishing to be questioned -further, and they are under the delusion without doubt, that we do, -indeed, "know every thing." - -The poor slave who has just been mentioned, must have had a friend who -was willing to pay the expenses of the burning to the Talapoys, or -_alias_ the phratais or phra-bo-coots as they are called in Siamese, -otherwise he would have been thrown without ceremony into the Menam and -become food for fish or alligators. A worthless priesthood, who _daily_ -spunge the most abject in society of their scanty pittance of rice, -clothing, or fruit, refuse even a few sticks of wood to consume the -dead bodies of their poor benefactors, and to recite a few heathenish -prayers without being amply paid for their trouble; but the priests of -Budha are not the only ones who exact payment for what is obviously -their bounden duty. Some of the Christian churches, even in this -vicinity, as well as those of other countries, will be paid for burying -their dead, and saying mass for the repose of departed souls. - -[Sidenote: BURNING THE DEAD.] - -The ceremony of burning the dead may be witnessed almost daily, between -noon and three o'clock, within the precincts of the temples. During the -ceremony, music of a most discordant kind is frequently introduced. The -instruments are noisy and consist of gongs, drums, &c., &c. Prayers, -written in the Pah language on slips of palm-leaf, are first read by a -priest from a pulpit; females and males set beneath it each holding a -taper: the language is probably unintelligible to every one present, -for most of the priests can barely read it, and few of them understand -it. - -These places are generally thronged with idle persons, who take no part -in the ceremonies, and walk in and out talking and smoking cigars, &c., -&c. At the head of the coffin is a piece of white cloth; a number of -priests take hold of it on each side, reciting certain prayers--this -being ended, the coffin and bier are dismantled, the body is washed by -one of the servants of the pagoda, who is always paid a small fee for -this most disgusting piece of service. Bodies are frequently kept for -days in this sultry climate, and then the office is no sinecure--it -is truly loathsome. The ablution being concluded, a layer of wet earth -is laid on the bier and dry wood is piled upon it--the body is then -replaced in the coffin, and carried three successive times around the -altar by the nearest male relatives, and afterward deposited upon -the pile; tapers and incense rods are distributed to all who will -receive them; a priest delivers a final prayer, then sets fire to the -funeral pile, and is followed by all who receive tapers and rods for -that purpose. The scull is always broken with a heavy bar of iron, -to prevent, as they say, an explosion and scattering of the bones -and brains. Small pieces of money are now distributed to objects of -charity, who are always in waiting at these places at the usual hours, -and are disappointed if there are no rich victims ready for the funeral -pile; sometimes the male relatives throw bundles of cloth over the -pile--those on the opposite side carefully catch them, and in other -cases it is dispensed with. - -No explanation of this singular piece of ceremony could ever be -obtained. I ought to have mentioned, previously, a horrible custom -which occasionally prevails here: many Siamese give directions that -their dead bodies shall be stripped of the flesh and given to dogs, and -carniverous birds, which infest the neighbourhood of the altars, and -the bones only are burnt. This is considered to be both laudable and -charitable. The unconsumed bones are carefully collected, prayers are -recited over them, and various ceremonies are performed by the priests. -They are then burnt to ashes, reduced into a paste with water, and then -formed into a small figure of Budha, and gilded; the latter is then -placed among the household gods, or deposited in a temple of Budha. If -any important branch of the family die, it is carried in procession, -and this is called "the procession of the bones of their ancestors." -But as the priests are very exorbitant in their demands for this small -piece of service, none but the richer class can afford the expense. - -[Sidenote: MISSIONARIES.] - -I omitted to mention the arrival, some days since, from Singapore, of -the English schooner _Reliance_, commanded by an American, Captain -Burgess of Maine, and owned by Robert Hunter, a Scotch gentleman, who -has been trading for eight or nine years past between Singapore and -some of the ports on the eastern side of the Malay peninsula, but more -particularly with this place. In this vessel came an American Baptist -missionary, the Reverend John Taylor Jones--wife, child, and servants: -he has been residing for about two years past at Maulmein, in Burmah, -but latterly at Rangoon. He had been expected for some months, and a -house was preparing for him by the very respectable Mr. Silveiro, the -Portuguese consul at Cokai, near a campong of Burmese. I immediately -wrote a note and sent it to the roads, about forty or fifty miles -distant, offering them every accommodation in our extensive house, -until they should be able to take possession of their own. Two days -afterward, the family arrived with the exception of Mr. Jones, who came -the following day, and remained with us till every thing was arranged. -Their house is a tolerably comfortable one for the climate; they appear -to be well satisfied with it, and their contiguity to Mr. Silveiro, who -speaks French, English, and Siamese, and is able to give every sort -of information relative to the people and the country, having resided -here about thirteen years. The house is situated a short distance back -from the river, amidst palm and other trees, and is surrounded by a -dense population. The house formerly occupied by the Reverend Mr. -Tompkin, an Englishman, Mr. Gutzlaff, a Prussian, and Mr. Abeel an -American, all missionaries, residing here within the last few years, is -a short distance from it, and immediately on the banks of the Menam; -it is a very small cottage, fit only for humble dwellers, and the very -appearance of it, with the very respectable men who occupied it, will -convince any one, that a life of luxury and indolence was not their -object in leaving their country and their homes, and all that was dear -to them; but to go about doing good in the cause of Christ, according -to their best abilities. - -These worthy men did much good when they were here, by administering -medicines to the sick, and in many instances, no doubt, in distributing -useful and religious tracts in the Siamese and Chinese languages; but -the injudicious though well-meant zeal of Mr. Gutzlaff in the very -outset, within the first two days of his arrival, gave great cause of -offence to the government; for he immediately threw many thousands -of tracts into every floating house, boat and junk, as well as into -cottages. An order was issued for his immediate expulsion from the -country, and that his tracts should be collected and burnt; and had -it not been for the friendly interference and good management of Mr. -Hunter, who was a favourite with the praklang, the order would have -been executed. - -The king ordered a translation of the tracts to be made, which was done -very fairly; he read them and said candidly and openly that there was -nothing objectionable in them, but he preferred his own religion. The -government raise no objections to Christian missionaries residing in -the country, and it is as favourably disposed toward them as can be -expected, considering the great influence of the Budha priests; but -missionaries must never suffer their zeal to transport them beyond -the bounds of common prudence. A certain sect of Christians here are -very inimical to Protestant missionaries, much more so, I am credibly -informed, than the Talapoys, who believe themselves so firmly seated -that they do not trouble themselves about the Protestant preachers. As -a convincing proof that the government is far from being unfriendly to -missionaries, the praklang sent down a good covered boat, expressly to -convey Mr. Jones and his family to their new residence, at Cokai, two -miles distant from our house. Mr. Jones was introduced by Mr. Hunter to -the praklang, who received him with apparent kindness. - -It it said, by some, that this favourable reception is owing to his -being an American citizen, and because of the friendly terms existing -between the government of Siam and the United States. It is true, -without doubt, that the king openly expressed much gratification, that -an American man-of-war had arrived with an envoy, for the purpose of -forming a treaty of amity and commerce. This fact was named to me -repeatedly, by the praklang and by others, who daily attend the court. -His Siamese majesty immediately ordered his best unoccupied building to -be prepared for us, (and it certainly is the best on the river;) two -of his best war-boats to be sent to bring us to the city, and a feast -to be prepared by the governor of Packnam; and on our arrival at the -house, every comfort and every luxury were spread on the table; and -cook, purveyor, servants, interpreters, and guards, at our service. The -praklang was ordered to facilitate the speedy execution of the treaty, -&c. - -All this was very gratifying; but, under the frequent delays and -obstructions thrown in the way of the treaty by the praklang, -influenced, probably, by the preference which the government people -of Siam were said to have for my countrymen, it is said by Mr. S. -and by many others, to have been the most extraordinary instance of -despatch ever known in the history of diplomacy in this country, -even when an enemy was at their door. Their friendly disposition -towards us was confirmed by Major Burney, who was sent to Siam, by -the governor-general of India, about six years since, now ambassador -at the court of Ava. He informed Mr. Jones, that the Americans were -decidedly preferred to any other foreigners. He was detained here -about seven months, and met with a thousand vexations. He was not -more successful in his negotiations than we were, although aided by -the sacrifice of the king of Quedah, and the fears the Siamese have -of their English neighbours in Burmah, and the Malay peninsula. Mr. -Crawford, his predecessor, likewise, who came here for a similar -purpose, in 1812, was detained several months, treated with insult, and -dismissed without obtaining a single commercial advantage. I omitted -to mention that Mr. Abeel is held here in the highest estimation, by -those who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. He possesses talents -of a very superior order, and acquirements that do great credit to his -industry; is mild and conciliating in his manners, forcible in his -arguments, yet possessing a sufficient degree of zeal, never giving -offence to the government, nor creating dislike by being over-zealous, -and thereby disgusting the natives; but the bad state of his health -would not permit him to remain on this good missionary ground, which -may be made, in a few years, ready for the harvest. Missionary stations -should never be left vacant, and several teachers should be on the spot -at the same time, so as to be able to relieve each other occasionally. -The language of the country must first be learned, and at least a -partial knowledge obtained of the Mandarin and Fo-kien languages of -China. Missionaries should also be well acquainted with the peculiar -doctrines of the Budhists, which they are labouring to subvert: free -schools should be established; a printing-press put in operation, and -those children should be preferred who have never attended the schools -of the Talapoys. Although a good wife contributes in a thousand ways to -the comfort and convenience of the missionary, yet the prejudices of -the people they visit should be consulted, at least for the present; -for the Siamese are firm in their opinion, that the vow of perpetual -celibacy should be observed by all who bear the title of priests, of -Christians as well as worshippers of Budha. All missionaries should -also have some knowledge of medicine and surgery. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - CHINESE JUNKS--MECHANIC ARTS OF SIAM--AMUSEMENTS--DANCING - SNAKES--ANNUAL OATH OF ALLEGIANCE--DESCRIPTION OF THE - CAPITAL--EMBASSY FROM COCHIN-CHINA--EDUCATION IN SIAM--PALACE. - - -The climate of Siam is more healthy than that of Batavia. -Notwithstanding the great heat of the climate, and the vast quantity -of uncleaned and undrained land, epidemics do not often prevail; yet -the spasmodic cholera, a few years since, swept off upward of sixty -thousand inhabitants. - -During our stay, the weather has been clear and serene, a breeze -visiting us about the middle of the day; yet the thermometer has -ranged 93°, and has frequently been 94° and 95°. No one has been sick, -excepting of complaints in the bowels, occasioned by a change of diet. - -The profuse perspiration under which we suffered, day and night, -considerably exhausted our strength. Those pests of all swampy -countries, moschetoes and other insects, have not appeared in such -vast quantities as they do in the rainy season, nor reptiles, which -then abound every where; nor is the heat so great as it will be within -the next four or five months, when the thermometer will rise from 100° -to 103°; yet, it is said, the climate then is not more unhealthy than -it is at present. Where the ship lies, the thermometer has not risen -above 84°, and prevailing winds have been from the southward, blowing -fresh the most part of the time, with a considerable sea. During the -heat of the day, notwithstanding bathing is resorted to, and the -natives are often seen with a wet cloth on their shoulders, to keep -them cool and mitigate the effects of a scorching sun; yet it is a rare -circumstance to see any of them with a covering on the head, excepting -the women-pedlars on the river, who wear a palm-leaf hat, the exact -shape of a milk-pan reversed; this is kept on the head by means of a -frame-work, made of split rattan; their dress also is different from -other women's being a tight cotton jacket, with sleeves, and the usual -waist-cloth worn by both sexes. - -It is surprising how few of the mechanic arts are here practised, -excepting those which are connected with the building of junks and -boats; and in this case, strickly speaking, there are but two or three -employed. The carpenter, who builds the vessel, makes the masts and -wooden anchors, and the very few blocks that are used; pumps are not -known, for the water is bailed out from vessels of one thousand tons -burden. They go to market and buy their mats to make sails, which are -spread out on the ground within certain pegs, which give the proper -dimensions and shape; the bolt-rope is then sowed on, being made of -a species of very coarse strong grass, abounding every where; and -the sailmakers, being the sailors of the vessel, make the cordage -generally, and assist in making the immense cables. Blacksmiths are -necessarily employed to make bolts, and calkers are indispensable. - -[Sidenote: CHINESE JUNKS.] - -A true Chinese junk is a great curiosity; the model must have been -taken originally from a bread-trough, being broad and square at both -ends--when light, (I speak of a large one,) it is full thirty feet -from the surface of the water to the tafferel, or the highest part of -the poop. Forward, a wide clear space intervenes, where the cable is -worked, there being a stage erected, some twelve or fifteen feet above -the forecastle, on which they help to work and keep a lookout for sail. -The mainmast is a most enormous stick of teak or other hard wood, big -enough for a line-of-battle ship, on which they hoist an enormous sail, -which generally takes all the crew, consisting of at least a hundred or -a hundred and fifty men; when they wish to lower it, it is necessary -to send a number of men on the bamboo poles, which stretch from side -to side, to assist in its descent. A small mast, the after or mizen -mast, is placed on one side, not in the centre as in other vessels, -but stepped or secured on the deck. The enormous cable is hove up by -a common windlass, without the assistance of pauls, stretching from -side to side of the vessel, through the bulwarks. The centre of the -vessel is at least fifteen or twenty feet lower than the tafferel, -open for the most part amidships, planks being placed here and there -to step on. There is tier upon tier of cabins aft. The hold is divided -into compartments and made water proof; these are hired or owned by -the shippers, so that each one keeps his goods separately; and in case -the vessel spring a leak, in any particular part, it is more easily -repaired. The caboose is on one side; and their meals, as at home, are -made of rice and salt or fresh vegetables, and perhaps a little fish, -and of every cheap article, however unsavoury, served up in a great -number of small saucers. - -The vessels are kept in a most filthy condition, and can be scented a -long way off. Scenes of the grossest debauchery are practised on board -these junks; and gambling is carried on to a great extent. They are -called either male or female, according to the shape--the former being -sharp aft, if not forward; but these are considered to be illegitimate -upstarts of modern date, and are not the true Chinese junk. The female -has an enormous broad convex stern, there being a hollow or cavity, -where the broad, clumsy, grating-like rudder is placed; it probably -recedes two feet from the quarters to the sternpost. They are generally -painted white and red, perhaps blue, and the two enormous eyes of -vigilance are ever to be seen on each bow. On the stern, all the art of -the painter is exhausted by a profusion of meretricious ornaments--an -eagle, or what is intended for one, occupies the centre of the stern, -surrounded by all sorts of non-descript figures, and on one side of the -counter is a Josh, or god of wealth, resembling in shape Toby Filpot, -besides a great variety of indescribable nothings. - -The boat is exceedingly stout and clumsy, and an exact counterpart of -the junk, being of an oblong square, nearly flat, and propelled by a -long oar, placed on a swivel. - -Another kind of mechanics, are tin and leather-dressers, which, -strange to say, are always to be found in the same shop. The makers of -qualtahs, or iron pots and pans, which are a very neat, light article, -and little liable to be broken, owing to the ductility or toughness of -the iron. These pots are sold at a cheap rate, and are preferred to all -cast-iron vessels imported from Europe. Some iron is also made into -small bars or pieces. There are also makers of sandals, which articles -are worn only by the Chinese. The tin-ware is very neatly made, and -the patterns show a good deal of taste; but it is useless to put on -the fire, as there is no alloy mixed with it. The leather is died a -common red, made of deer-skin, and smoothed by a black stone, the size -of a brick; it is used for mattresses, pillows, &c. House-carpenters, -canoe, and boat builders, and a few makers of musical instruments, with -a little coarse pottery, and a few ordinary knives and locks, comprise -all the mechanic arts that have fallen within my knowledge. Gold and -silversmiths, I have nowhere seen; if there were any, who possessed -such ingenuity, they would be seized upon by the king or his officers, -and employed in their service. The gold vessels, containing areca, -cigars, &c., &c., are carried to every place they visit, by the princes -and higher officers of government, are made at the palace, and can only -be used by the king's favourites. I have seen a few rude hand-looms in -operation; but the fabrics, both of silk and cotton, were very ordinary. - -They import their brass ware and silk stuffs from China and Surat, -and their cotton and woollen goods, cutlery, &c., principally from -Singapore. Even the Talapoys' razors for shaving their heads, are -imported from Canton: they are made of thin brass, of a curved shape, -about two inches wide throughout, and six inches long, fixed into a -coarse wooden handle. The mechanic arts are carried on almost wholly -by the industrious Chinese. The common houses are of bamboo, with -attap roofs; some are built of wood, and few of brick; but with few -exceptions, they all stand upon high piles. They are thus raised, in -consequence of the inundation of the river, to make them more secure -against depredations, to keep them dry, and to avoid the numerous -reptiles. The bridges which cross the canals, are generally a single -plank; some few have timbers laid on apartments of wood or brick, -planked, and about six feet wide, but an arched bridge is nowhere to -be seen. Roads there are none; and the only carriages are those owned -by the king, which are brought out only on some great occasions, and -are never seen beyond the walls of the city; of course, there is -scarcely any use for horses or elephants. The Menam with its thousands -of boats, and the numerous canals and branches of the river, make the -communication every where cheap and easy, and compensate in a great -measure, for the want of roads. - -The principal amusement of the inhabitants, within their houses, is -singing and playing on musical instruments, of various kinds: their -singing is of a plaintive and melancholy cast, and they display -considerable taste in its execution: but there is too much monotony, -too much sameness in it; still they have got beyond the point of being -pleased with mere sound, like the Chinese. Their musical instruments -are very numerous: I have been able to describe but few; the music -produced by them is very different from the vocal, being cheerful -and lively. Playing chess is also a pastime. Dancing girls are kept -for the amusement of the women of the higher classes. Tumblers, -rope-dancers and actors, are considered necessary appendages for a -complete establishment. Gambling is carried to great excess by the -Siamese and Chinese; and the revenue derived from it, as will be seen -in a statement of the revenue, is of considerable importance to the -government. Flying kites is a favourite amusement with all, especially -with the Talapoys, and a great number of them may be seen employed, -in this way, at all hours of the day. Playing shuttlecock with their -feet, three on a side, is much practised by them, as well as the laity; -and in their houses, and even within their temples, they spend a large -portion of their time at chess. These amusements, together with chewing -areca, smoking cigars, begging, and sleeping, leave but little time for -devotion and study. - -[Sidenote: DANCING SNAKES.] - -A few days since, a Siamese came into the yard, and desired to exhibit -some dancing snakes; he uncovered a basket, and drew out with his naked -hand several of a large size, and of the most venomous kind known in -India, the cobra de capello--they were full six feet in length, and -large in proportion; he had eight in the basket, and took out three or -four at a time, and suffered them to run about: he would then touch one -slightly on the body, as he was retreating, which caused him instantly -to turn his head backward toward the tail. The head, from being round -and small in proportion to the body, was quickly expanded to the width -of full three, and probably five inches in length, showing a crown or -circle in the centre; the head was nearly flat, his forked tongue was -thrust out with great rapidity, and he kept vibrating from side to -side, and his keen fiery eye shot forth most terrific glances; but he -made a most noble and graceful, although frightful appearance. - -The exhibitor kept a cloth moving, a short distance in front of his -eyes, and the snake, in endeavouring to elude it, so that he might -spring upon his adversary, kept in a dancing motion. Having tied two or -three of the largest round his neck, and put the head of one of them -in his mouth, the exhibition ended. Being satisfied that the fangs -were extracted, or otherwise they could not be handled with impunity, I -suffered two of them to run between my feet, but they did not offer to -molest me or any one else. - -The water used for domestic purposes is taken, with all its impurities, -from the river, in water-tight buckets, neatly and strongly woven; it -is put into unglazed earthen jars of thirty or forty gallons, and is -suffered to settle in the best way it can, without any foreign aid. -The filth of half a million of people, which is all emptied into the -river, renders it most impure, and dead bodies are frequently thrown -in to save the expense of burning. In a family, where no garments -are mended--in which there is no baking or ironing of clothes; no -stocking nor shoes worn, and the washing and drying of their simple -garments, done at the river, does not occupy a month in a year--no -books read, and no writing done--a large portion of the time of the -females must, of course, be spent in sleep and idleness. This is the -life led by the Siamese women of a good condition, they having in fact -no occupation--this must be the true "dolce farniente" of the Italians, -and a sorry one it is. - -They wear no jewels, these being used altogether by the children, -their dress consisting only of a waist and breast cloth of dark silk. -A little music, the dancing girls, actors, and tumblers, occasionally -exhibited, chess, colouring their skin yellow with turmeric, and -anointing the tuft of unshorn hair on the top of their head; scandal, -with frequent dissensions, the natural consequence of a plurality -of wives; no riding out, seldom paying visits, and rarely diverting -themselves with shopping, the almost unvaried repetition, from day -to day, of the same dull round of occupations and amusements, cause -their lives to drag on wearily, heavily, and listlessly. Long nails -being considered a sort of patent of nobility by the Siamese, as well -as the Chinese and Cochin-Chinese, draw a certain line of distinction -between the vulgar, who are obliged to wear short ones and work -for their living, and the higher orders. Those of the latter are -carefully preserved from being broken, but not quite so much pains -being taken to keep them clean, they are generally disgusting in their -appearance--some of them are full two inches in length, and are put -into cases of bamboo or metal on retiring to rest. The female actresses -wear silver-pointed cases to them, which curve backward with a high -sweep, nearly touching the wrist. - -The higher orders of nobility, in fact, all who are allowed to crawl -as far as the lowest place within the palace, and all the officers -of state, must pay a morning and an evening visit to the "Lord of -the White Elephant," to his "_golden-footed majesty_," "the master -of all men's lives." Not to attend regularly, is considered a mark -of disrespect and disaffection to the king: sickness, or some great -calamity, only, is good cause for excuse. - -Regularly, at half past eight in the morning, the praklang passed the -mission house, having about a dozen paddles to his long canoe, sitting -cross-legged or sidewise under the palm-leaf awning, or reclining on a -carpet and cushions, a slave crouching on all fours in front of him, -administering to his comforts in lighting a cigar, or helping him to -areca. His palanquin (or rather a lacquered hand-barrow) protected -from the rays of the sun by a large umbrella, was carried in the same -boat, so as to be in readiness, on landing, to carry his unwieldy -person to the palace. About noon, he returned. Between six and seven, -he again regularly passed, and returned again usually about midnight. -The paddlers on the numerous boats crouched low when he passed, as -they all do when passing by the king's bathing-house on the river: he -never notices, in the slightest degree, their obeisance, but wo to them -if they omit it. The bath-house is of great length, painted red, and -decorated in front with numerous dwarf-trees and shrubs, and is used, -it is said, daily, by his hundreds of (some say, eight hundred) wives -and many scores of children, with their countless attendants. - -[Sidenote: ANNUAL OATH OF ALLEGIANCE.] - -Annually, every public officer renews his oath of allegiance to his -majesty, in the most horrid and revolting terms, calling down upon -himself every curse and punishment in the present and future world, -should he prove disloyal. At the commencement of the Chinese year, -every governor, or other important officer, even of the most distant -province, is obliged, on pain of death, to present himself at the -krong, or capital, for this purpose. - -A few days after our arrival, the venerable bishop of the Roman -Catholic church sent a deputation to wait upon me, consisting of a -young French priest, who has been in the country about two years, and -a native Portuguese priest. The bishop sent an excuse for not paying a -visit in person, owing to his advanced age and great infirmities, and -requested me to call upon him, which I accordingly did in a few days -thereafter, in company with Mr. Silveira and Doctor Ticknor. He made -but few inquiries respecting his own country, which he had apparently -almost forgotten. He said he was born at Avignon, in 1760, left France -in the year 1786, and, with the exception of the time occupied by a -tedious passage, three months passed at Macao, and six months at Hué, -the capital of Cochin-China, he had been ever since in Siam. He was -very infirm, and in his second childhood: sans teeth, sight dim, sans -every thing. The house he lived in was very old and far from being -clean. The church was built of brick and stuccoed, having a very gaudy -and ordinary altar-piece, and destitute of images. It has been finished -but a few years, and is called Santa Assomption. - -A college, erected within a few years since the church, and neatly -built of wood, stands near it, having about twenty students. It is -erected on high posts, and is one story high. This Christian campong -stands in the midst of palm and forest trees; and the situation is -altogether very rural and pleasant. It will bear no comparison with -its neighbours, the rich and gorgeous temples of Budha. The Catholic -churches in this country, since the first bishop arrived, in 1662, -have scarcely made any progress: the descendants of the Portuguese -constitute, I may say with propriety, all the Christians in the -kingdom; so say the Catholics themselves. All that can now be found -here, and in the vicinity, do not exceed, according to the most -zealous of that sect, thirteen hundred; but, according to a Protestant -Christian missionary, who resided here nearly three years, and numbered -them with considerable accuracy, they do not exceed four hundred. There -are four churches in this vicinity; three of them are merely long -sheds, in a wretched condition. In the campong of Santa Cruz, the walls -of a brick one are erected, near to the old shed of that name; but the -building will never be finished, for there are, already, evident signs -of dilapidation in many parts of it. - -Of the splendid churches that once adorned the old capital of Jutaya, -there is but a small one now remaining, built out of the ruins of the -others; and in Camboja, where the Catholics once had a strong foothold, -they have dwindled to a mere name. The descendants of the Portuguese, -in whose veins courses the blood of the courageous adventurers with the -bold and fearless Vasco de Gama, who had the temerity first to double -the cape of Good Hope, and the cruel Albuquerque, are now crouching -slaves before the nobles of the country; and are employed only in -menial offices, with the exception of two, which give them a bare -subsistence. - -[Sidenote: BUDHIST TEMPLES.] - -The number of temples erected in the city and vicinity, I was unable -to ascertain: that they amount to several hundreds, (some report -from four to five hundred,) there cannot be a doubt. They occupy the -most conspicuous and beautiful spots on the bank of the Menam, on -its tributaries and numerous canals: you never lose sight of them; -frequently eight or ten are in view at the same moment. In the most -sequestered rural spots, they are always to be found; and wherever -a brick pathway leads into the depths of the forest, it is a sure -indication that there is a temple to be found. They are erected by -pious individuals generally, believing that it will be the means of -their souls being transmigrated into a higher and holier state of -existence, than would otherwise enjoy; they but most of them are built -from ostentatious motives. - -They are of brick, and plastered; are one story in height, having -neither arch nor dome; of a square form, and the roof is covered with -neat coloured tiles, which gives them a gay appearance. At a first -view, one is deceived, by supposing that there are three or four roofs -to every building, as there are a series of them, which gradually -diminish in size, to the main roof. The fronts, or gable ends, are -laboriously and elegantly carved, with fanciful devices, and richly -gilded. The eaves, doors, and window-frames, are, more or less, -carved and gilt, painted and varnished. The doors and windows greatly -resemble the pointed, or Gothic style of architecture. A figure of -Budha, generally in a sitting posture, wearing the peaked crown, and -having the soles of his holy feet turned upward, occupies nearly one -entire end of the building, and is usually surrounded by votaries of -a small size. He is partially covered with yellow cloths, having a -high umbrella suspended over his head. Incense is occasionally burnt -before him. The ceiling of the roof, which is flat, is painted with -vermillion, ornamented with gilded stars. The entire sides, doors, -and window-shutters, are covered with figures, fruit, and fancy work -of various kinds--painted, varnished, and gilt. The floors of most of -the buildings are of cement, having neither galleries, benches, nor -seats of any kind, and scarcely a mat to kneel on. There are but few -public temples. The front and rear of all have a portico. China plates, -saucers, and common English crockery, stuck into plaster, intended -as ornaments, are seen on many of them; bits of coloured glass, also, -make up part of the ornaments around the doors and windows. The images -are either of brass or iron--brick plastered, and wood; but all richly -gilt and burnished. Two temples, of a lesser size, stand on either -side of the principal: they are generally not so highly ornamented. -Small pyramidal pagodas, of six or seven feet in height, and open -at the sides, surround these buildings, and contain two stones, or -rather slabs, standing about six inches apart; they are of the exact -shape of a bishop's mitre. I repeatedly asked the use of them, or what -they were intended to resemble; but all professed their ignorance of -their origin. In them were generally found palm-leaves, containing -characters, written in the sacred or Bali and Siamese languages, strung -together in the centre, at a proper distance. - -Small temples, or rather buildings, for various purposes, occupy the -fronts and sides, among which, in a distinct building, is the belfry, -which is ascended by a flight of steps, containing generally five or -six bells, having no tongues, but being sounded by means of a heavy -stick, or piece of metal. - -Early in the morning, "when dying clouds contend with growing light;" -when the fox-bat is returning from his nightly wanderings, to suspend -himself on the holy fig trees, which lie scattered about the temples of -Budha, and like the midnight marauder, shrinks from the sacred light of -day; the tokay has ceased to send forth his harsh, loud, and monotonous -cry; the prowling tiger has retired to his lair; the tuneful birds have -chanted forth their first matins, or the labourer has returned to his -daily task; when every thing is hushed in the solemnity of night, in -the stillness of a temporary death, you are suddenly aroused by the din -of the pagan bells, sounding far and wide through the depths of the -surrounding palm-forests, summoning the worshippers of Gautama to early -prayers. In the confusion of the moment, between slumbering and waking, -you are transported, in imagination, to far distant lands, where the -Sabbath bell calls forth its votaries. But how great the contrast! One -summons to the worship of an imaginary god; the other to the worship of -the everlasting and true God, the Lord of all things--of light and life. - -Pra-chadis, or thin tall spires, from twenty to sixty feet in height, -are in great numbers; and there is one at the krong or capital, which -towers to the height, probably, of a hundred and fifty feet. The houses -of the Talapoys are contiguous to the temples, and are generally -shaded by fruit and forest trees. Small temples, having a high roof, -and four wide avenues leading to the centre, for the burning of the -richer sort, and a raised platform in the open air, for those who can -only pay small fees, are placed at the most convenient spot near the -water. A long bath, or small pond, containing young alligators, seems -to be a necessary appendage to all temples. The grounds about the -front of many of the richer temples, are neatly and prettily laid out -with avenues, clumps of trees, shrubbery, &c. The priests derive a -considerable revenue by making small images, either of the unconsumed -bones of certain deceased persons, or else of common clay, gilt; and -also by writing on palm-trees, certain moral or religious sentences, -in the sacred language. The Indian lotus, with its broad leaf, is -nowhere neglected, but is found about every temple, growing from large -porcelain or stone vases, neatly, and sometimes elaborately wrought. -Every Siamese temple is not only a place for worship, but it is -likewise a monastery: females are in them, old and worn out, and their -characters are far from being respected. They only do menial offices, -dress in white, and have nothing to do with the worship in the temples. -As rice, their chief support, is abundant, it is but just that the -Talapoys should support them in their old age. - -The spot on which the present capital stands, and the country in its -vicinity, on both banks of the river for a considerable distance, were -formerly, before the removal of the court to its present situation, -called Bang-kok; but since that time, and for nearly sixty years past, -it has been named Sia yuthia, (pronounced See-ah you-tè-ah, and by the -natives, Krung, that is, the capital;) it is called by both names here, -but never Bang-kok; and they always correct foreigners when the latter -make this mistake. The villages which occupy the right hand of the -river, opposite to the capital, pass under the general name of Bang-kok. - -[Sidenote: COCHIN-CHINESE AMBASSADOR.] - -A Cochin-Chinese ambassador, with several junks, arrived here from -Longuar (alias Saigon) a few days before our arrival, being the same -mentioned previously. Ambassadors' junks of both nations, whenever they -visit each other's country, or pay their annual tribute to China, are -always well laden with goods, out and home, on account of the king or -his ministers; it is in part a trading expedition, and the secret is, -they are allowed to go duty free, as I have before stated. - -[Sidenote: COCHIN-CHINA AND SIAM.] - -The object of the emperor of Cochin-China, in this case, is blended -with a more serious piece of business; it is no less than to demand the -delivery, to them, of the person of the first minister of state, and -superintendant of Pegu, and the principalities of Laus and Camboja, -whose title is "Chan-phaya-bodin-desha;" he is a "meh-tap," or -commander of the Siamese forces now in Camboja. It seems, in 1827, the -Siamese government oppressed the subjects of one of the Laos tributary -princes, Chow-vin-chan, to such a degree, that he was obliged to take -up arms in defence of his rights, against the neighbouring Siamese -government; this was the point to which the Siamese government wished -to force him, for the purpose of taking into possession his territory. -Hordes of soldiers were sent among them under the command of the said -Chan-phaya-bodin-desha, and they committed all sorts of enormities; -the country was stripped of its riches, and the inhabitants, fleeing -from the enemy, were shot down indiscriminately like wild beasts; this -process being found too tedious, thousands were packed into houses -and blown up with gunpowder; the younger women became the prey of -a licentious soldiery, and the smoking ruins of a peaceable people -marked the track of a band of savages, whose knives were steeped to -the hilt in the blood of their fathers and mothers, husbands, wives, -and children. Those who escaped were sent to the capital and sold as -slaves; thousands and thousands died on the rafts which floated them -down the Menam, with wounds, sickness, and starvation. In fact, the -country was made desolate, was in ruins: "He made a solitude and called -it peace." The survivors were never more to see their country; their -soil was given to their savage invaders. In the midst of these horrible -excesses, an ambassador from the emperor of Cochin-China was sent to -the general in command, with the ostensible object of interposing -in behalf of Chow-vin-chan and his family, who had fled into their -territory--not from motives of compassion, I conceive, for the present -emperor of Cochin-China is an ignorant, blood-thirsty savage, and -pursues his enemy, where he dares, with an unrelenting hand. The -object was, in truth, to prevent the conquest of the kingdom of Laos -by Siam, which would give the Siamese a better chance of obtaining -a larger slice at a future day, which they had long contemplated -with eager and with gloating eyes. The Siamese commander, smarting -with all his wounds, and red-hot from the bloody battle-field, or to -speak less hyperbolically, not having filled a heavy purse from the -spoils of the conquered, anticipating a golden harvest from the onward -march, and feeling deeply indignant at the insidious policy of his -wily neighbours, ordered an instantaneous massacre of the envoy and -his suite of a hundred men, with the exception of one, who was sent -back to say, "I alone am left out of all my brethren." Highly enraged -as was the emperor at the fell swoop of the embassy, and the gross -violation of the law of nations, he dissembled, not daring to wage a -war or revenge cruelty by cruelly; for his crazy, disjointed, and puny -government would probably crumble into atoms, the moment a large force -should quit the kingdom. - -The Cochin-Chinese government are aware that the Tung-kinese, on the -north, are watching keenly for the first possible chance which offers -of freeing themselves from their despotic oppressors; the Cambojans on -the south are desirous also of measuring the length of their swords -with their hard task-masters, and the lower class of Cochin-Chinese, -which comprise nine hundred and ninety-nine of the thousand, are ripe -for a revolt; being ground to the earth by the higher orders. They are -ragged, filthy, and starving, from the gulf of Tung-king to the gulf -of Siam, and from the coast washed by the China sea, to the boundaries -of his "golden-footed majesty." Year after year this demand has been -made and evaded, and so far from his Siamese majesty ever intending to -comply with it, he has lately sent this same "Meh-tap" into that part -of Camboja which fell to his majesty's share in the division of that -kingdom with Cochin-China, to receive, and to protect from capture, the -many thousands of Cambojans, who have recently fled into the Siamese -territory. The ambassador paid his first visit a few days after his -arrival, to the chow-pia-praklang, and was treated with bare civility; -he was told, by order of his majesty, that a copy of the same letter -which was sent to his majesty the last year, was all the answer which -would be returned to the letter received from the emperor through -his hands. His audience with the king, which took place a few days -previously to ours, was marked by no distinguished honours; the pomp -and parade exhibited to us were dispensed with upon that occasion. It -is said by Mr. Silveira, and all others, that no embassy from a foreign -country ever had so favourable and honourable a reception as ours, -marked at the same time with the most extraordinary despatch ever known. - -This same emperor of Cochin-China, this deep sympathizer in the wrongs -of the people of Lao, has lately persecuted to death a handful of poor -Roman Catholics, all who would not trample on the cross and renounce -Christianity. To conclude, the Chow-vin-chan and family were betrayed -into the hands of the Siamese. Sickness, distress of mind, and long -exposure to the elements, fortunately put an end to the prince. He -died in a cage, a few days before his cruel oppressors intended to -put him and his family to the most excruciating tortures; the heir -apparent escaped, but committed suicide by throwing himself from the -roof of a temple to the ground, rather than fall into the hands of his -blood-thirsty pursuers. The female part of the family receive a scanty -subsistance from the government and remain in the capital. Thus ended -the dynasty of Chow-vin-chan, adding another victim to the millions -that have heretofore perished, from the effect of inordinate ambition. - -The barbarous conduct of the Siamese last year, in the Malay peninsula, -in sending hordes of soldiers, or rather common coolies, under the -command of the chow-pia praklang, which destroyed Patani, Singora, &c., -plundering them of their property, and sending nearly five thousand -prisoners as slaves to this place, which had been given away, or "sold -in lots to suit purchasers;" the thousands that died from wounds, bad -treatment, and starvation--deserve the bitter execration of every -friend of humanity. - -Education is carried to a very limited extent; a mere smattering -only is generally diffused among the Siamese, in reading, writing, -and arithmetic. The suan-pawn is in general use as an assistant in -making calculations. Those who wish to attain to a greater degree of -knowledge, more particularly in the Pali or sacred language, resort to -the monasteries of the Talapoys. In their composition, (if I may be -allowed to judge from the various articles of the treaty, being again -and again altered to make them clear and perspicuous,) they are fond -of being ambiguous in all their forms of expression. There was always -a disposition evinced to hint obscurely at things, like the Chinese, -rather than express their full meaning. - -[Sidenote: HABITS OF THE SIAMESE.] - -A plain unmasked style, in speaking or writing, is totally unknown -to a cringing people, born under a despotic government; but they -are rapidly becoming wiser. Their intercourse with the English and -Americans is gradually bringing about a more honest, manly, and open -mode of expressing themselves, both in speaking and writing; but it can -never be thoroughly effected under such a form of government as the -present. The lower classes of the people are obliged to make use of -gross flattery and adulation to their superiors, who again treat them -as slaves, using high authoritative language. Subordination in rank -is so strongly marked, that not the slightest appearance of equality -is to be seen. They attach a ridiculous importance to mere form and -ceremony. A Siamese, in the presence of a superior, either crouches to -the ground, or walks with his body bent. It seems utterly impossible -for him to sit or walk in an upright posture. Women are allowed more -freedom here, than in any other country where polygamy is tolerated. -They wear no veils, and almost hourly boat-loads of the wives of the -nobility were seen to pass; the curtains were drawn aside to satisfy -their curiosity, which always appeared to be more ardent than ours. The -lower orders of women, apparently, do most of the labours of the field, -and are employed in the boats on the river in great numbers. They are -the principal traders, and are said to be very shrewd and cunning. - -The most conspicuous objects which strike the eye of the traveller -on the Menam, besides the splendid wats, are the new palace, a large -watch-tower, and a prachade or tall thin spire, which is many feet -higher than any other building; all are situated within the walls -of the city. The palace itself, with its pagodas, and many other -buildings, is surrounded by a high wall, having strong gates, and -a guard of a miserable and undisciplined militia. The palace is a -handsome and extensive building of brick, and stuccoed; the doors and -windows are similar in style, taste, and outward decorations to the -better class of temples, and bear a strong resemblance to the Gothic -style of architecture. It has a high cupola, formed by a series of -roofs, or it rather resembles a conical umbrella diminishing in size -to the spire, which is without decorations, and rises to the height, -perhaps, of one hundred and sixty feet. The roof of the building has -also a diminishing series of roofs like the pagodas, and it is covered -with very neat coloured tiles. The cupola appears to be gilded upon -copper, or more probably slabs of tin. - -The watchtower is of the height of the palace, and is an oblong square -building; the base is probably one hundred feet square, built of brick -and plastered, having a guard-house and strong gates; fifty feet -from the base commences the first look-out room, and there are two -others above it. In them are gongs and bells, which give notice of an -enemy, or a fire, or an insurrection of the people. The inhabitants -are at once informed by the sound of one of these instruments, of -the calamity which assails them, each one being appropriated to one -of these particular objects. A few days before the procession of -the wang-na took place, there arrived the governor of Ligor, whose -title is chow-phay-a-lakhow, alias Ligor; he commands one of the most -important provinces belonging to the Siamese, in the Malay peninsula, -is a Siamese by birth, a man of powerful talents, fond of Europeans, -and adopts all their improvements in the mechanic arts. His boats -are handsomely modelled, carrying two or three fore and aft sails; -they are coppered, carry a suitable number of cannon, and every thing -about them is in excellent order. The model is superior to that of the -king's, having a greater breadth of beam, and they are of a greater -length. The soldiers are well and uniformly clothed, and well drilled -with the musket and the use of the bayonet, according to the tactics -of the Europeans. There is some trade from the port of Ligor, in what -is generally called the Malayan produce, viz.:--tins, black pepper, -rattans, rice, sapan-woods, &c., and several small cargoes of cotton -are taken away annually by Chinese junks. Four of his sons govern other -provinces in the peninsula; the eldest is governor of Quedah, the -former king of which now remains at Pulo Penang, or Prince of Wales -island. - -Although the British agreed by treaty, on the cession to the Pulo -Penang, to protect him and his kingdom against any invasion by the -Siamese, yet the latter were suffered to capture Quedah, and the -British violated their treaty, for they offered no assistance. The -king fled to Penang for protection, demanded to be reinstated, and -was refused. Major Burney, in order to obtain a favourable commercial -treaty with the Siamese, agreed to keep him a prisoner, and he is now -in durance, living upon a small salary, under British protection. The -cause of the failure of Mr. Crawford's mission, was his refusal to -deliver him to the Siamese, or confine him as a close prisoner. - -The governor of Ligor was ordered here to attend the procession and -burning of the wang-na; and it was also necessary he should be here -at the commencement of the new year, to renew his oath of allegiance. -He is a powerful chief; the government is alarmed at the extent of -his power, but they dare not dispossess him of his government, or do -his person any violence, for his sons would most certainly avenge -his cause, and the king's possessions in the Malay peninsula, would -probably be lost to him. - -[Sidenote: TEA--RAINS.] - -The Chinese, who are noted every where for their villanous tricks, -import large quantities of ordinary goods here, as well as those of a -good quality--among other articles is tea. A story I heard almost daily -in Canton, respecting the gross imposition practised upon foreigners in -this article, here proved to be true. It is a well-known fact, that all -the tea used in China, particularly about Canton, is bought up again, -"_fired anew_," as it is termed, and coloured green; even black teas, -it is said, are thus coloured, by the use of smalts, and then exported -to various countries. Tea of a good quality is exceedingly scarce here, -and at a high price, notwithstanding the proximity to China, and the -great number of junks which enter here from all the maritime provinces -of that empire. - -Until the ascension of the present king to the throne, it was a -custom with the sovereigns of the country to hold the plough at the -commencement of the rains, which generally take place at the latter end -of April or beginning of May; this is now dispensed with, and one of -the nobility is appointed instead of the monarch. - -The rains continue till September, when the lower part of the Menam -begins to rise, and it is at its utmost height in November and -December: it then begins to subside. Its rise is generally from -twelve to sixteen feet, but two years since it rose to the height of -twenty-one feet. - -The thermometer is occasionally as low as 73° in the months of December -and January, during the height of the northeast monsoon. - -Vast numbers of boats and rafts, bringing in the productions of the -upper country, visited the capital during the flood above alluded to. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - - PROCESSION TO THE FUNERAL PILE OF WANG-NA OR SECOND KING--ORIGIN - OF BUDHISM IN SIAM--SOMMONA KODOM--ATHEISTICAL PRINCIPLES OF - BUDHISM--BUDHIST COMMANDMENTS--HISTORY OF SIAM--GOVERNMENT--TITLES - OF THE KING--OFFICERS OF THE GOVERNMENT. - - -[Sidenote: FUNERAL PROCESSION.] - -_April second._ Having received an invitation from his majesty through -the praklang, some days since, to witness the procession of the remains -of the late second king to the funeral pile, and this day being set -apart for that purpose, a suitable boat was sent to us early by the -praklang, and soon after seven in the morning, we proceeded across the -river to the city. - -The party in the praklang's boat consisted of Mr. Hunter, Dr. Ticknor, -Lt. Fowler, Mr. Morrison and myself--and in my boat were Midshipmen -Rumfort, Weed and Wells, Mr. Robinson, &c., &c., and Raymondo the -Portuguese interpreter. We landed near one of the city-gates and passed -through it to the place assigned us, a great concourse of people being -collected in the principal street through which the procession was to -pass. - -Finding the place by no means convenient to see the procession, owing -to the lowness of the roof of the building, and being annoyed in some -degree by the concourse of people who came to have a sight of us, -(although they were altogether civil in their conduct,) I made known -to the interpreter that we must remove from that place to one more -commodious. Shortly after we went near to a part of the king's palace: -it was an open building standing on columns of about twenty feet -square, having a tiled roof; mats were spread on a part of it for our -accommodation. The praklang was there and a prince of Lao, &c., &c. -The former shortly took leave to attend the procession, having seen -that we were properly accommodated. At nine, or rather at three, in -Siamese time, the procession commenced and continued about an hour and -a quarter, in the following order:-- - -First: several hundred standard bearers (three hundred and -eighty-four,) dressed in red embroidered cloth, wearing caps of the -same material; the banners were of silk richly embroidered with gold -of a triangular shape, bearing devices of dragons, serpents, &c., -all neatly embroidered also. A band of music, consisting of drums, -harmonicon and small hautboys, accompanied them. - -Second: a young rhinoceros of about four feet in height, drawn by a -party of soldiers dressed in embroidered blue cloth long jackets, on a -sledge or low carriage, having on his back a small gilded castle and -containing in the centre a small bundle of Talapoy or yellow cloths. - -Third: two horses having two pairs of wings, about five feet in height, -bearing similar castles with Talapoy cloths; one of them was spotted -with red and the other with blue. - -Fourth: two gigantic cocks, with demons' heads, having four wings, -castles, &c., of various colours. - -Fifth: two four-winged elephants, full size, one white and one green, -bearing castles and cloth, followed by a band of music. - -Sixth: two gigantic cocks with cocks' heads, four wings, beasts' tails, -and partly human bodies, castles, &c., accompanied by a band of music; -colours of these nondescripts were various. - -Seventh: two more with cocks' bodies and tails, four wings, with -elephants' trunks and tusks, gilt castles and cloth. - -Eighth: two more cocks with four wings, castles, &c., but a little -different from the seventh. - -Ninth: two cocks with griffin-legs and human arms, four wings, castle -and cloth. - -Tenth: two cocks with long snouts, four wings, castle and cloth. - -Eleventh: two horses with dragons' tails, four wings, castles, &c. -Then came one hundred and twenty men carrying flowers made of yellow -or Talapoy cloth, having artificial green leaves: they were of the -shape of a sunflower and attached to bamboo-poles ten or twelve feet in -length. - -Twelfth: two horses' bodies, with elephants' heads and snakes' tails, -four wings, castles, &c. - -Thirteenth: two cocks with horses' bodies, four wings, castles, &c. - -Fourteenth: two lions, with deers' horns, wings, castles, &c. - -Fifteenth: two lions, with horses' bodies, long tails, wings, &c. - -Sixteenth: two leopards, with elephants' heads and tusks, wings, &c., -&c. - -Seventeenth: two elephants' bodies, with non-descript heads, wings, -&c., &c., colour, a dark ground with white spots. - -Eighteenth: two horses, covered with green circles, cocks' crests, -lions' tails, wings, &c., &c. - -Nineteenth: two striped and spotted leopards, with wings, castles, &c. - -All the above animals were from four to six feet in height; they were -made of bamboo frame and covered with paper; the different pairs were -variously painted and gilt, striped, spotted, in circles, &c., &c. -They were drawn on low sledges, sometimes by men alone, dressed in -blue or green cloth, embroidered with the figure of a tiger, and caps -to correspond, with waist-cloths of all colours; others by men and -horses: all the animals were in pairs, and about twenty feet apart: -they had four wings each, and bore small gilded towers on their backs, -containing on a salver, cloths of yellow, intended as offerings to the -Talapoys. - -Then followed one hundred and thirty men with tom-toms or drums, which -they struck occasionally with a covered stick. They were dressed in -coarse red cotton jackets, caps, and drawers reaching to the knee. - -These were followed by seven hundred men representing angels, dressed -in long white frocks, having white high peaked caps in the style of -the royal crown of Siam. These represented celestial messengers, and -were to show the soul of the deceased the way to heaven: each one -bore the sacred Indian lotus and leaf, artificially made: these were -accompanied by a great number of musicians, having trumpets and small -brass horns, making a great discord: then sixty-four conical umbrellas, -each consisting of five separate pieces: they were about fifteen feet -high, the lowest part being about four feet in diameter and were made -of cloth of gold and embroidered. - -Between each two of these men, was carried what resembled a section of -a bishop's mitre, similar in appearance to those placed in front of all -the wats. They were fastened to the tops of staves, of about nine or -ten feet in length, and were flat, broad, neatly ornamented, and gilt. - -Following these, came the san-krat, or Siamese bishop, apparently -reciting prayers, in a car about twenty feet high. This carriage was -broad at the base, gradually lessening to the seat; neatly carved -and gilt, and sparkling with various coloured glass. The carriage was -drawn by six horses, and led by servants. Then came, dressed in a robe -of gold tissue, one of the youngest sons of the deceased, wearing a -royal gilt cap, in a car nearly similar to the last, and drawn in like -manner. An immense white umbrella was held over him, conical umbrellas -at each corner, and four long gold fans, pear-shaped: these are a sign -of royalty. Then came another son of the deceased king, wearing the -royal peaked cap, in a carriage like the last, drawn by one hundred -men, in embroidered green dresses and red caps, assisted by five horses -richly caparisoned, holding in his hand the end of a broad sash of -silver tissue, which was connected with the funeral car of his father, -being about thirty, forty, or fifty feet distant. This latter car was -about twenty-five feet in height. It was elegantly decorated with -carved work, superior to its predecessors, and highly gilt. The body -was seated in a square gilt tower, having gilt network sides, and was -supported by two angels, kneeling, in front and rear. The car was drawn -by angels dressed similarly to the former, and also by horses. Many -of the high officers of state walked in single files by the side of -the carriage, dressed in white muslin, and peaked caps, carrying white -wands. - -The body was placed in a sitting posture, with the knees drawn up to -the chin, and the hands united in the attitude of prayer: it was said -to be embalmed. - -Eight hundred angels next followed, in two lines, succeeded by a large -carriage, containing Agila, and other odoriferous woods, for consuming -the remains of the deceased. - -The preceding carriages were all similar in structure, and from -eighteen to twenty-five feet in height to the top of the towers, -fifteen feet in length, and ten feet in width. The wheels were of a -solid piece of wood, and about two feet in diameter, similar to those -used in buffalo-carts in Manila, Sumatra, and Java: the carriage being -broad at the base, and gradually lessening to the tower, and of an -oblong form. - -Following the foregoing, came six open carriages, covered with -beautifully figured cloth of gold, containing Talapoy cloths. - -Fifty-six umbrella towers, of a very large size, being a series of -canopies, gradually lessening to the top, covered with rich gold cloth, -having tassels of green, red, &c., &c. - -One hundred men with green and gilt drums, or tom-toms, wearing red -cotton frocks and caps. - -One hundred and fifty men bearing artificial yellow flowers, made of -Talapoy cloth, similar to those already described. On each flank were -men carrying artificial yellow flowers, like those before named. Then -followed:-- - -Three pairs of horses' bodies, with non-descript heads, cocks' crests, -lions' tails, &c. - -Two pairs, with giants' heads and bodies, cocks' tails and legs, in -green and gold. - -Two pairs, with cocks' legs and fishes' tails, in white and gold. - -Two pairs, with gorgons' heads, human bodies, lions' tails, in white -and gold. - -Two pairs lions, painted blue. - -Two pairs, yellow, with horns. - -Two pairs, blue, with horns. - -Two pairs, yellow, no horns: All having gilt towers, containing Talapoy -cloths. - -Fifty men, carrying rich silk embroidered pennants. - -Then followed on horseback, in pairs, four princes, two and two, -wearing the gold-peaked crown, and dressed in long robes of silver -tissue: following them, eight more, of a lower rank. These were -succeeded by a great number of slaves or attendants, dressed in white -waist-cloths. The horses were richly caparisoned, with gold housings, -bridles, &c., and led by slaves. At every few steps they would stop, -and the attendants in front would kneel down, facing their masters, as -well as those in the rear. - -Preceding every prince, went a man, bearing a bundle of rods, like a -Roman lictor. In the rear were open palanquins, having gold, or richly -gilt supporters on the sides, and rich velvet cushions. Then followed a -vast concourse of people, but all preserving good order. - -There was an immense multitude convened to witness this splendid -funeral procession. Governors and rajahs from distant provinces of the -empire, came, by order of his majesty, each one bringing a gift to -assist in paying the enormous expenses attending this idle and useless -ceremony. Here were assembled persons of all nations. From the western -hemisphere, Americans; from the east, Indians, Arabs, Bengalese, -Burmese, Pequans, Malays, Sumatrans, Javanese, Cochin-Chinese, -Cambojans, the Chans, or people of Lao, Siamese, &c.; and among the -whole of them no serious impression could possibly have been made. It -could only be considered a fine farcical scene, a pretty raree show, -got up as a benefit for the king and his ministers, (for it is expected -that every one, who is able, will contribute something,) to show the -public that splendid mausoleums are only fit for the great of the land, -and that the vulgar herd must be burnt in the common way, either under -a shed, or else on a raised platform in the open air: to impress their -minds with the magnificence of majesty, and, at the same time, to -strike them with awe and fear, so that they may be more easily ruled by -the iron hand of despotism. - -This whole assembled multitude (with the exception of our party) -crouched to the ground like base slaves, whenever any of the higher -ranks passed. Along an extensive street, on one side, were play-houses -erected, open to public use, in which were exhibited shows of all -kinds, and fireworks might be seen nightly, within the enclosure -surrounding the temporary funeral pile. His majesty was desirous we -should witness the burning of the body on the funeral pile, which was -to take place the seventh day after the procession;[A] but the ship -was in want of provisions; the southwest monsoon was about commencing, -which is generally attended with violent squalls and heavy rains, the -ship was riding at anchor ten or twelve miles from the mouth of the -river, in five and a half fathoms' water, in a very exposed situation; -and it was necessary to bring our water some forty miles, near the -city, besides which, the only provisions to be obtained, were fowls, -pork, and rice. - -[A] One of the sons of the wang-na watches at the temple, near the -funeral pile, night and day, till the body is consumed; the ashes of -the consumed body are then thrown into the river with many ceremonies; -and the unconsumed bones are then delivered to the priests, and made -into household gods. - -[Sidenote: BUDHISM IN SIAM.] - -The Budhist religion of Siam, according to historians, originated in -Magadha, the modern Behar, in the sixth century, (or 542,) the founder -being Gautama, the son of a prince, called Sudhodana. After many -centuries it was introduced into Ceylon; and in the seventh century of -the Christian era, first into Camboja, and from thence into Lao; and -lastly, into Siam. Sommona Kodom, the cattle stealer, a Singalese, was -the missionary who first propagated this religion in those countries. -He is described as being benevolent in the _extreme_. He even carried -his zeal so far, as to murder his whole family, (considering them as -encumbrances upon his country,) so that he might maintain a greater -number of priests. He was renowned for the daily mortifications of -his body, his fastings, his prayers, his miracles, and the fantastic -appearance he could assume--now swelling to the size of a mountain, -and again shrinking to a mere atom. But notwithstanding he possessed -great supernatural powers, he could not resist the cravings of an -un-saint-like appetite; for eating a large quantity of pork one day, he -died in a fit of anger, because he had transgressed one of his rules, -and thereby set a bad example to his disciples. - -All professors of Budhism, whether of Tartary or Magadha origin, are -atheists. They do not believe in one God, the creator of the universe. -The leading doctrine of this religion, is that of the transmigration of -souls. - -After being purged of all their sins, by being punished in some one or -all of their numerous _hells_, having practised the regular number of -virtues, they believe that they will at length reach the highest of all -their more numerous heavens, and then no longer come into existence or -die; that then they are emancipated from all the cares and passions -which belong to our natures, and sink into annihilation. - -Here they will enjoy the company of the blessed Guatama, who occupies -the uppermost seat, and that of many worthies who will there be found; -yet the existence of the founder of their religion is limited to a term -of five thousand years, and nearly one half of that time has actually -expired. The Budhists say the world was created by chance; it will be -destroyed and reproduced, and destroyed again and again. - -The founder of this religion--seeing that all mankind was in a state -of gross ignorance and barbarism, ferocious, their feet swift to shed -blood, that they were given up to a life of rapine--persuaded them that -it was a sin to shed the blood of any living creature; that they must -cultivate the soil, and live in peace and harmony with all mankind. - -He, therefore, enjoined on his converts the following moral precepts, -viz.:--First: Thou shalt not kill any living creature. Second: Steal -not. Third: Commit not adultery. Fourth: Thou shalt not lie or -prevaricate. Fifth: Thou shalt not be guilty of drunkenness, or use -any intoxicating drugs. Sixth: Eat not after noonday. Seventh: Frequent -not play-houses, or any place of amusement. Eighth: Use no personal -amusements. Ninth: Sleep on a clean mat, and use no costly, soft, rich, -or elevated beds. Tenth: Do not borrow or run in debt. - -The first commandment is violated in every war that takes place; and -how many instances have we on record of blood being poured out in -profusion, to make clear the path for the ascension to the throne of -a lawful sovereign or a usurper, or for some more trivial object. The -clergy and laity also daily partake of fish, flesh, and fowl; but they -consider the crime of killing them as attached to the vender only, -although they may hire him to commit the act. The second and third are -but little attended to. As it regards the fifth, the large revenue, -derived from the distilling of arrack, is a convincing proof of its -general use; and wine and spirits form a part of the cargo of every -English and American vessel, which are sold at a good profit; and -the use of opium is likewise rapidly increasing, notwithstanding its -use is prohibited by their laws and religion. As for the last five -commandments, they are imperative on Talapoys only, and they do, or do -not, observe them, as it suits their inclination. As for the fourth, -it is considered quite obsolete; I believe, it is observed or not, as -it may subserve the interests or convenience of either the clergy or -the laity. If there were not so great a number of Talapoys employed in -cutting grass for the king's elephants, one would be led to suppose -that the third commandment was _originally_ intended to be observed -more strictly among them than it now is, but he must first be stripped -of his sacerdotal vestments, before he can be punished by the secular -arm. - -[Sidenote: TALAPOYS OR PRIESTS.] - -All _spiritual concerns_ are delegated to the priests. A strict -observance of religious duties is not expected from the laity; if -they administer to the daily necessities of the clergy, pay them the -customary honours, and strictly attend to the observance of the holy -day, &c., they consider that they have fully acquitted themselves -of every essential part of their duty. Almost every freeman in Siam -is, for a longer or shorter period of time, a priest. If married, he -must be divorced, having previously made a suitable provision for his -family. If he enters the priesthood a second time, it is for life. -There are six grades of priests; they enter as noviciates, and are -promoted according to their respective merits. Above all, is the -san-krat, bishop or high-priest, who receives his appointment from the -king. - -The sovereign is the pope, or real head of the religion of the country, -and the priests depend wholly upon him for promotion, and in a great -measure for subsistence; he is always deemed holy, and must have been -truly virtuous in a former life, to have attained his present eminence. -Eighty-four thousand six hundred bats or ticals, equal to the sum of -about fifty-three thousand five hundred dollars, are placed down among -the items of the expenditures of the government, for the year 1832, -as given in alms to the priests by the king. The Talapoys cannot be -engaged in any of the temporal concerns of life; they must not trade -or do any kind of manual labour, for the sake of a reward; they are -not allowed to _insult_ the earth by digging it. Having no tie, which -unites their interests with those of the people, they are ready, at all -times, with spiritual arms, to enforce obedience to the will of the -sovereign. - -No Talapoy can ordain a layman, without first obtaining a license from -the san-krat, and all classes of people pay him unbounded honours. -Secular persons must make obeisance to Talapoys--even parents to -their children; this mark of homage is considered as their due, and, -therefore, they never return the salutation. One strong inducement to -enter the priesthood, is an exemption from the conscription law, which -bears so heavily upon the people; to avoid paying taxes, and to obtain -an easy livelihood. - -Their time must be spent in studying the sacred Pali or Bali language, -in reading hymns, prayers, and moral discourses, and begging: for they -must not lay in a store of food, nor make any arrangement for preparing -it for use, but still they employ others for that purpose. - -They are forbid to be burdensome to beast or tree; but it seems -they may be so to their own species. Twice in the month, the head -and eyebrows must be shaved, as a token of mortification, and to -render them less captivating to the _fair_ Siamese. Attached to all -temples are monasteries, slenderly endowed by the government or rich -individuals--yet by far the largest part of their support is derived -from casual alms and gifts. Early in the morning, they may be seen in -great numbers, sallying forth in their yellow dresses, which are either -of silk or cotton; some carrying a large bason, and others with their -scrip, suspended over the left shoulder by a band of yellow cloth; -this is made of a composition of iron and sand, and it is exceedingly -brittle. These pots are manufactured just without the walls of the -city, on the south side. They are covered with a material more or less -rich, according to the ability of the owner. Great numbers of Talapoys -are seen rowing their little boats, in search of alms, having then -no protection for their closely shaven heads against the heat of a -powerful sun. But when they go out for exercise, or to pay a visit, -they use a long neat pear-shaped palm-leaf fan, called talapat. When -they present themselves at the foot of a ladder, or in front of a -floating-house, they never ask for charity, but wait patiently till -they are supplied with clothing or food: it is received in silence, and -they never return thanks to the donor. - -[Sidenote: HISTORY OF SIAM.] - -Siam appears to have no place in history, prior to the introduction of -the Budhist religion, in the year of Christ, 638, when a sovereign by -the name of Krek governed the country. In 1521, their first intercourse -with Europeans (the Portuguese) took place. There were two revolutions, -and the country was conquered by the Burmans, and recovered again its -independence between A. D. 1547 and 1596. In the year 1612, the first -English ship made her appearance, and ascended the river to Yuthia, -the ancient capital, about fifty miles above the present seat of -government. In the year 1621, a Portuguese mission was sent to Siam, -by the Portuguese viceroy of Goa; and in the same year, some Roman -Catholic missionaries first made their appearance. In 1627, another -revolution took place, which placed a new dynasty on the throne. In -1684, the son of the usurper was instigated by Constantine Phaulcon, -a Greek adventurer, to send an embassy to Louis XIV. In 1685, the -Chevalier Chaumont was sent there, at the head of a splendid embassy, -which was the cause, in 1687, of sending a second mission, with a -squadron of ships and five hundred soldiers. The total destruction -of the English took place at Magni, this year, in consequence, it is -said, of their overbearing and insolent conduct; and, in the year -following, their factory at Yuthia was removed. In 1690, a revolution -took place, and the reigning family lost the throne; the minister, -Phaulcon, lost his life, and the French were expelled from the -country, which destroyed their hopes of establishing a French empire in -the East, until the year 1787, when they made that famous treaty with -Cochin-China, ceding the peninsula of Haw, the bay of Turam, &c.; but -which failed in consequence of the troublesome state of public affairs -in France, at that period, followed by the revolution. Since that time, -and within the last five years, the French government sent a frigate to -Cochin-China, and endeavoured, but without effect, to have the treaty -ratified. The dynasty of 1690 reigned till the capture of the capital -by the Burmans, under Shembuan, the second son of Alompia, which took -place in 1767, when the king was killed at the entrance of his palace. - -The Burman army retired with great plunder, after destroying vast -numbers of the inhabitants, making slaves of others, destroying the -temples, and committing every sort of excess. The Siamese immediately -rose upon the Burmans who remained, and massacred them and their -partisans. - -A chief, of Chinese descent, Pla-tah, alias, Phria-metah, in 1767, -seized upon the throne, and proclaimed himself king. In the early part -of his reign, he behaved with moderation, good sense, and discernment, -and his courage was unquestionable. He reconquered Piseluk and Ligor, -which had declared themselves independent, during the Burmese invasion: -but in the last year of his reign, he ruled in so strange a manner, -that it was generally believed he was insane. His tyrannical and -capricious conduct, in 1782, was the cause of a formidable rebellion, -under the chakri, so called, being the title of a great officer of -state: it ended in the dethronement and death of the king, in the -same year, at the present capital. The chakri reigned in his stead, -until his death, in 1809. His eldest son then mounted the throne, but -not without opposition, for there was a large party in favour of his -nephew, the prince Chow Fa, (or Chaou Pha.) He commenced his reign by -committing an act of great atrocity, ordering, within thirty-six hours -after the death of his father, the execution of upward of a hundred -persons, supposed to be inimical to his right to the throne, including -his nephew. - -After the committal of this sanguinary act, he ruled with great -moderation. Nothing of much importance occurred. Three abortive -attempts at insurrection took place during his reign; one was by the -Talapoys, occasioned by an attempt to force a large number of their -order into the ranks of the army. - -The acquisition of the fertile and extensive province of Batalang, in -Camboja, took place the same year he ascended the throne. The year -following, their implacable enemy, the Burmese, captured the island -Junti Ceylon, on the western coast of the Malay peninsula, which was -shortly after recaptured by the Siamese, attended with scenes of great -barbarity. Since the conquest of the Burman empire by the British, the -Siamese have lost all dread of their ancient enemy. - -In July, 1824, the father of the present king died _very suddenly_, -it was said of stranguary, but not without strong suspicions of his -being poisoned; in fact, it is said, by every one, that this was -the cause of his death. His eldest, but illegitimate son, Chromas -Chit, ascended the throne the same day, without bloodshed, to the -exclusion of the rightful heir, prince Chow-Pha-Yai, who immediately -embraced the priesthood, in order to save his life, or his liberty, -or because he would not do homage to a usurper. His younger brother -_Chow-Phoi-Noi_,[A] otherwise _Mom-fa-Noi_, was the next legitimate -heir to the throne. He lives at the Portuguese fort, on the right bank -of the river, opposite to the palace, and is now about twenty-five -years of age. - -[A] He speaks and writes the English language with considerable -fluency, and his pronunciation is very correct. - -Joined to a playful disposition, he possesses considerable abilities; -he is a friend to the mechanic arts, and to the sciences; and very -friendly disposed, as well as his elder brother, towards foreigners. -He seems solicitous to become acquainted with all the Europeans and -Americans; and not a day or evening passed, during our stay there, -but his boat was sent, desiring the company of some of the gentlemen -residing at the mission house. In the night-time, by stealth, he went -down the river and visited the Peacock, having previously received -letters from Captain G. to his first officer. He examined the ship -throughout; the men were mustered to quarters, and went through the -exercise of the great guns, small arms, &c. Never having seen a -man-of-war before, he appeared to be astonished at the neatness of the -ship, the order, regularity, and activity, of the men when at quarters; -and stated, after his return, he was exceedingly surprised at every -thing he saw, and highly gratified with his visit. A strict secresy -was enjoined upon every one, not to divulge this visit, or it might -cost him his liberty, or, perhaps, his life. He made application, -afterward, through the praklang, to the king, to pay a visit, which was -granted; but there was not time; he was obliged to be present at all -the ceremonies attending the burning of the second king.[A] - -[A] The present king is very desirous of encouraging foreign commerce -to enter his ports, and the perplexities and endless changes which -formerly annoyed them, are now removed. As long as the present king -lives, this wise policy will be pursued. The amount of imports is -rapidly rising in importance. A historiographer is regularly employed -at the court of Siam, and the recorded events are deposited in the -public archives. - -[Sidenote: GOVERNMENT OF SIAM.] - -The government of Siam is a despotism, subject to no restraint except -the apprehension of popular tumult or foreign invasion. The fact of -being in high station, is regarded as sufficient evidence of exalted -merit in a former state of existence. The king is therefore considered -almost, if not altogether, equal to a deity; and is always addressed -as such. His most common designations are Chaocheveet, "the lord of -lives," Khun-luang, "the owner of all," Phra-putty-chao-jahooa, "the -sacred lord of heads," and numerous others of the same nature. His -more formal title, as translated in the treaty with the British, -concluded by Captain Burney, is the following: "The great lord who is -in possession of every good and every dignity, the God Bood'h, who -dwells over every head in the city of the sacred and great kingdom of -Sia-yoo-thya, incomprehensible to the head and brain." The Siamese, -when they possess titles, cease to be designated by any personal names; -hence the king is never spoken of except by the abovementioned or other -similar titles. - -[Sidenote: OFFICERS OF GOVERNMENT.] - -Next in rank and station to the king, is the wang-na, commonly called, -by Europeans, the second king. This high officer is always one of the -most exalted of the princes, and is chosen by the king at the time of -his accession to the throne. When he survives the king he commonly -succeeds him on the throne; but when the wang-na dies first, it is -seldom that another is appointed to fill his place, during the reign of -the same king. Hence there was no one who held the office at the time -of our arrival, the one chosen on the accession of the present king -having died about ten months before. - -At the head of the Siamese administration is the supreme council, -consisting of the following officers:-- - -First: A president, a prince of high rank. When the mission was in the -country, this office was held by the prince Khroma-luang-rah. - -Second: Chao-phaya-bodin-deeha or khroma-ha-thai, formerly called -Chao-phaya-chakri. He has the general superintendance of the northern -provinces adjoining Pegue, and of the principalities of Laos and -Camboja. - -Third: Chao-phaya-maha-sena, or khroma-ka-la-hom; he is of equal rank -with the lastmentioned, and holds the office of commander-in-chief of -all the land and sea forces, with the general superintendance of the -southwestern provinces, even to the last tributary Malay rajah. - -Fourth: Chao-phaya, praklang or khromatha, the minister of commerce and -foreign affairs, who also has the superintendance of the southeastern -provinces adjoining Cochin-China. This office and the lastmentioned, -are at present held by one individual. - -Fifth: Chao-phaya-jomarat, or khroma-muang, minister of criminal -justice. - -Sixth: Chao-phaya-phollathep, or khrom-na, minister of agriculture and -produce. - -Seventh: Chao-phaya-therama-terat, or chroma-wang, governor of the -royal palace. - -The mission, during its stay in the country, had intercourse only with -the praklang, and the subordinate officers of his department. These -were:-- - -First: Chao-phaya praklang: Chao-phaya is the first in order of -the honorary titles. Praklang is said to signify, "lord of the -store-houses," and is the title of the office. This signification -corresponds with the title given to him by the Chinese, viz.: "Great -minister of the treasuries or store-houses." - -Second: Phaya-si-piphat. This office is held by one of the brothers of -the praklang. Phaya is the second honorary title. - -Third: Phaya-piphat-kossa, called by the Portuguese, the second -praklang. - -The other officers in this department, consisting of four phayas, two -pras, (or officers of the third rank,) eleven luangs, (of the fourth -rank,) &c., were never met with by the mission, except when in the -presence, and acting under the orders, of their superiors. - -Connected with this department is that of the Farang-khroma-tha, -"Frank (or European) commercial board," under the direction of the -Luang-sura-sakhon, chief of the Linguists, or captain of the port. This -office is at present held by Sur-Jose-da-Piedade. - -The commander of the artillery, Phaya-viset, Song-khiam, is also often -brought in connexion with foreign missions. This office is held by -Sur-Beneditto-de-Arvellegeria, a Cambojan Portuguese, who, with his -brother, Sur-Pascoal, has been for many years in the employ of the king -of Siam. The governors of all provinces, whether great or small, are of -the second rank, or phayas, with one exception, that of the governor of -Ligore, called Chao-phaya-lahhon. Their subordinate officers are not -known. - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - - ANCIENT LAWS OF SIAM--LEGAL OATHS--PUNISHMENT FOR - DEBT--DIVORCES--POPULATION OF SIAM--STATURE AND COMPLEXION OF - THE SIAMESE--DIVISION OF TIME--BOUNDARIES AND POSSESSIONS OF - SIAM--MARINE OF SIAM--IMPORTS--INLAND TRADE--CURRENCY--TREATY OF - COMMERCE--TABLE OF EXPORTS. - - -The Siamese have written _laws_, which are dated as far back as 561 of -Christ; and others are referred to in their courts, to the years of -1053-1614 and 1773. - -The higher officers of state are the justices and magistrates, but -the final decision rests with the principal local authority within -whose district the delinquent resides. Where the government is a -perfect despotism, and the channels of justice are polluted by corrupt -propounders of the law, equity and justice are but empty names, and -good laws a mere mockery. Oaths are administered to witnesses only on -formal and solemn occasions: the following being the form used in their -courts as translated by Capt. Lowe:-- - -"I, who have been brought here as an evidence in this matter, do now, -in the presence of the divine Prah-Phutt hi-rop (Budha,) declare that -I am wholly unprejudiced against either party, and uninfluenced in -any way by the opinions or advice of others, and that no prospects of -pecuniary advantage, or of advancement to office, have been held out to -me; I also declare that I have not received any bribe on this occasion. -If what I have now spoken be false, or if in my further averments I -should colour or pervert the truth, so as to lead the judgment of -others astray, may the three Holy Existences, viz.: Budha, the Bali -(personified,) and the three priests, before whom I now stand, together -with the glorious Dewatas (demi-gods) of the twenty-two firmaments, -punish me. - -"If I have not seen, yet shall I say I have seen; if I shall say that -I know that which I do not know, then may I be thus punished. Should -innumerable descents of the Deity happen for the regeneration and -salvation of mankind, may my erring and migrating soul be found beyond -the pale of their mercy--wherever I go, may I be encompassed with -dangers, and not escape from them, whether arising from murderers, -robbers, spirits of the earth, of the woods, of water, or of air, or -from all the divinities who adore Budha, or from the gods of the four -elements, and all other spirits. - -"May blood flow out of every pore of my body, that my crime may be -made manifest to the world; may all or any of these evils overtake me -within three days, or may I never stir from the spot on which I now -stand, or may the _hatsani_, or lash of the sky, (lightning,) cut me -in two, so that I may be exposed to the derision of the people; or if -I should be walking abroad, may I be torn to pieces by either of the -four supernaturally endowed lions, or destroyed by poisonous herbs or -venomous snakes. If when in the waters of the rivers or ocean, may -supernatural crocodiles or great fishes devour me, or may the winds -and waves overwhelm me; or may the dread of such evils keep me, during -life, a prisoner at home, estranged from every pleasure, or may I be -afflicted with the intolerable oppressions of my superiors, or may a -plague cause my death; after which may I be precipitated into hell, -there to go through innumerable stages of torture, among which may I -be condemned to carry water over the flaming regions in open wicker -baskets, to assuage the heat felt by Than-Wetsuan, when he enters the -infernal hall of justice, and thereafter may I fall into the lowest -pit of hell; or if these miseries should not ensue, may I after death -migrate into the body of a slave, and suffer all the hardships and -pains attending the worst state of such a being, during a period of -years, measured by the sand of four seas; or may I animate the body -of an animal, or beast, during five hundred generations; or be born -an hermaphrodite five hundred times, or endure in the body of a deaf, -blind, dumb, houseless beggar, every species of loathsome disease -during the same number of generations, and then may I be hurried to -varah, or hell, and there be crucified by Phria-yam, one of the kings -of hell." - -The Siamese are extremely capricious, in the standard value of -witnesses; the oath of priests and men in office, bearing a preference -over all others, while there are not less than twenty-eight in number, -who are excluded, and declared to be incompetent; they are as follows: -contemners of religion, persons in debt, the slaves of a party to a -suit, intimate friends, idiots, those who do not hold in abhorrence the -cardinal sins, among which are enumerated, besides theft and murder, -drinking spirits, breaking prescribed fasts, and reposing on the mat -or couch of a priest or parent, gamblers, vagrants, executioners, -quack-doctors, play-actors, hermaphrodites, strolling musicians, -prostitutes, blacksmiths, persons labouring under incurable disorders, -persons under seven or above seventy, bachelors, insane persons, -persons of violent passions, shoemakers, beggars, braziers, midwives, -and sorcerers. - -Tortures are resorted to in cases of treason or atrocious robbery, -and even among debtors where property is supposed to be concealed, as -well as the ordeal by water and immersing the hands in boiling oil or -melted tin. He who remains the longest under water, and the hand which -comes forth unscathed, are pronounced to be innocent. A debtor may be -punished by stripes and imprisonment, or dried, as it is termed by the -Siamese, that is exsiccated by being exposed to the direct rays of a -burning sun, suffering in addition the torments from myriads of noxious -insects, and finally to be sold as a slave if he is unable to discharge -his debt. - -A great number of debtors are seen in irons about the bazars, whose -only mode of subsistence is by begging; and they seldom ask in vain of -a people who are pre-eminently charitable. - -[Sidenote: PUNISHMENTS.] - -Theft is punished with the bamboo and with imprisonment, and even hard -labour for life, in aggravated cases. Murder, counterfeiting coin, and -forging the royal signet, with imprisonment for life, and the severest -punishment of the bamboo; and in cases of cruel and deliberate murder, -with death, by decapitation. A breach of the marriage-vow is not deemed -a highly criminal act, and it is easily commuted by paying a fine, -according to the rank or standing of the parties, from the sum of two -hundred and seventy to ninety dollars. Marriage is a civil contract, -and the Talapoins are not considered, in any way, necessary to legalize -the contract; but their prayers and benedictions are occasionally -bestowed. Insults are punished, from an inferior to a superior, -according to the aggravation of the offence, by a fine, and even by -corporal punishment, when a priest is the aggrieved party. - -If a priest commits a criminal act, he is divested of the sacerdotal -habit, and is punished generally with more severity than a layman. -Divorces are easily obtained, and each party receives back whatever -was contributed to the common stock. The minor male children go to the -mother, and the female to the father. Property can only be given to -the wife and children, and daughters receive from a half to a whole -share more than the sons. Wills must be made in the presence of four -witnesses. - -Siam appears to be a place of refuge for the surrounding nations, -and is composed of a great variety of people, viz.: Siamese, Laos, -Cambojans, Malays, Kariangs, Lawas, Kas, Chongs and Semangs, Chinese, -Mohammedans, and Hindoos of western India, Peguans, and Portuguese. -The population of the whole empire, including their late conquests in -the Malay peninsula, does not probably exceed three millions and six -hundred thousand, (although many Siamese rate it, in round numbers, -at five millions.) Of this number, I am led to believe, from frequent -conversations held with men in office, that the Siamese do not exceed -one million and six hundred thousand. The native population of Lao, -about one million and two hundred thousand. The Chinese at not less -than half a million, there being nearly three hundred and forty -thousand in the capital and the villages which compose Bang-kok. The -Malays, probably, amount to three hundred and twenty thousand; and -the remainder are natives of western India. Peguans, Cambojans and -Portuguese, the latter from pretty correct authority, do not exceed -fourteen hundred in the whole Siamese dominions. The Kariangs, the -Lawas, the Kas, and the Chongs, are wild and migratory races; the -three first inhabit the mountains and fastnesses of Lao, from the -Burman dominions to Camboja. The Chongs inhabit the hilly country, -bordering on the eastern side of the Siamese gulf. The Semangs are a -race of savage negroes, dwelling in the mountainous regions of the -Malay peninsula, of which a very curious and particular statement -was published by J. Anderson, Esq., included in his account of the -"Aboriginal Inhabitants of the Malay Peninsula," which I have subjoined -at the end of my Journal on Siam.[A] - -[A] See Appendix A. - -By actual admeasurement of a great number of Siamese, it is ascertained -that the average height does not exceed five feet and four inches. -Their skin is darker then the Chinese, yet they are several shades -lighter than the Malays; their complexion is rather a dark shade of -yellow or a yellowish brown. All classes delight in heightening it, -by using turmeric. A light yellow is considered to be the "ne plus -ultra" of all colours and all shades. This taste is derived, probably, -from the numerous Chinese who reside there. Owing to their frequent -bathing, and daily using a clean waist-cloth, their skin is remarkably -smooth, soft, and shining. They are inclined to obesity, have large -lower limbs and stout long arms; yet they are by no means a strong or -robust people. The _face_ is broad and flat--the cheek-bones round, -but prominent--the _nose_ rather small, round at the point, and rather -hollow at the bridge--they have large mouths and rather thick lips--the -lower jaw is long and full at the extremities, and the countenance -apparently square--the eyes are small and black, the white tinged with -a yellow cast--the forehead, although broad in a lateral direction, is -generally low--the beard is very scanty. The diameter of the head is -remarkably short from the front, backward; the top is unusually flat, -and from the crown to the nape of the neck, (in a large proportion of -them,) is nearly in a straight line. The hair is always black, thick, -coarse, and lank. - -[Sidenote: DIVISION OF TIME.] - -The Siamese week consists of seven days; the months, alternately, of -twenty-nine and thirty days; and twelve months, or three hundred and -fifty-four days, make a year. The year being solar, an intercalary -month of thirty days is added every third year after the eighth month. -The month is divided into a dark and a bright half, as the moon is upon -the increase or the wane. The Siamese new year corresponds with that -of the Chinese, which commences _after_ the last half of the month of -January, or the sun's entrance into Aquarius. It is very certain, that -in forming their calendar, they depend upon that constructed at Peking. -There is also a greater division of time, consisting of twelve years, -each year taking the name of some animal, thus:-- - - _Siamese._ _English._ - - First year Chuat Rat. - Second " Chabu Ox or cow. - Third " Khan Tiger. - Fourth " Tho Hare. - Fifth " Marong Dragon, or great snake. - Sixth " Maseng Snake, or lesser serpent. - Seventh " Ma-mia Horse. - Eighth " Ma-mee Goat. - Ninth " Wock, or Vock Monkey, or ape. - Tenth " Ray-ka, or Raka Cock, or fowl. - Eleventh " Cho, or Cho-Cho Dog. - Twelfth " Khan, or Kun Pig, or hog. - -The Siamese have two epochs, sacred and popular. The _sacred_ era dates -from the death of Gautama, and the year 1833 corresponded to the 2376 -year. The vulgar era was instituted when the worship of Gautama was -first introduced; and the year 1833 corresponded with the year 1194, -and was the fifth, or dragon year. - -Siam proper extends from about the latitude of 23° north, to the -gulf of that name, and is bounded, west by the Burman empire, and -east by the Lao (Lau) mountains. This is the valley of the Menam, -the "Mother of waters," the country of the true Siamese. The Menam, -after watering the low, flat land, by its annual deposites, empties -itself, by three channels, into the gulf of Siam. The boundaries of the -Siamese dominions on the bay of Bengal, extend from the Burman, (or -more correctly speaking, in the present day,) the _English_ Burmese -dominions, as far south as the boundary line between the petty states -of Perak and Quedah, in the straits of Malacca, in about the latitude -of 5° north, in which is included the valuable island of Junk, Ceylon -or Salung, containing a vast body of tin ore. It then extends nearly -east, across the Malay peninsula, in about the same latitude, between -the provinces of Tungano and Pakhang, the shores of which are bathed -by the China sea: it then extends north to the head of the gulf of -Siam. The Siamese government, during the year 1832, brought under their -immediate subjection, nearly the whole of the tributary states in the -Malay peninsula. They possess, also, a large part of the late kingdom -of Lao, including the former capital of the empire, called Lau-chang, -situated on the great river Camboja, in about the sixteenth degree of -north latitude, and which is represented to be very populous. They hold -also (with the exception of a small portion of the southern part) the -province of Batabang, in Camboja. Their eastern boundary line is in -about the longitude of 105°, and extends north to the latitude of 15°, -being the dividing line between Lao and Camboja, and extending south -to the Siamese gulf, the boundary being the island of Kong, (alias Ko -Kong,) situate in north latitude 10° 43´, and longitude 103° 17´ east. -Extending north, on the east coast of the gulf, lies Chautabun, once a -part of the ancient kingdom of Camboja. It is well known as a rich and -valuable possession of Siam. - -The Siamese possess no ships of war, but they have an immense number -(probably not less than five hundred) of war-canoes; some of them being -over a hundred feet in length, and made of a single teak-tree: they -have also, probably, fifty or sixty vessels, having two or three masts, -using fore and aft sails, and carrying from three to eight brass guns: -the largest do not exceed a hundred tons' burden: these are neatly and -strongly built, and many of them are even elegant models. The whole -number of mariners employed in foreign and coasting voyages, may be -fairly estimated as amounting to not less than thirteen thousand. - -[Sidenote: PRODUCTS--IMPORTS.] - -Siam is a very fertile country, and abounds in productions suited for -foreign trade, beyond any other with which I am acquainted to the -eastward of the cape of Good Hope. It is no less distinguished for the -variety and abundance of its mineral, than it is acknowledged to be -for its vegetable productions. I have annexed a statement, showing the -exports of 1832, the quantities of each article, the prices, &c., &c. - -To the Siamese trade may be added that of ship building, which is -carried on very extensively. A great number of Chinese junks are built -here annually; the timbers are of a very hard wood called marbao, and -the plank is of the finest teak in the world. Many of these vessels are -of a thousand tons' burden. - -The imports consist of British piece goods, white and printed, with -some woollens. India goods, of all descriptions, the coarser from -Bengal, and the finer and more expensive, from Surak. From China are -brought silks and teas, porcelain, quicksilver, and almost every other -article exported from that country. From other sources powder, arms, -and cannon; glass ware, and crockery; cutlery; some drugs; arrack; -wine, &c., &c. Opium is strictly prohibited; but the Chinese and -others introduce, clandestinely, large quantities for sale. There -is an immense trade carried on at the capital, called Si-a-Yuthia, -(pronounced See-ah-you-té-ah,) and on the opposite, or right bank of -the river, at Bang-kok. - -_Cotton twist_ is daily increasing in demand, more particularly low -numbers, from twenty to thirty. Twist, of a bright red, (not narrow,) -from number forty to fifty, always sells well; yellow and green are -died in the country, as well as ordinary red. Not more than twenty -peculs should be sent by one vessel. - -_Siamese dresses_ should be of small star patterns, on red, blue, and -green grounds, with a few chocolate grounds: the _red_ grounds must be -_bright_; they should be in the proportion of _four_ to _one_ of the -others. Each case should contain twenty corges, containing four hundred -dresses. - -_Prints_, generally called seven eighths, find a ready market. They -must be all of the star pattern, bright ground and narrow. The -proportion is, two pieces of red to one of black or blue, in a case of -a hundred pieces. Some on cloth, of thirty-four to thirty-six inches, -would also sell. - -_Chintz._ Large pattern furniture chintz is saleable. It is used for -curtains and screens. Patterns running lengthwise, are preferred. - -_Ells._ Long ells find a ready sale. The consumption of _red_ is very -great. There should be one hundred pieces of red to twenty of green. - -_Woollens._ _Thin_ ladies' cloths only are in demand; heavy, thick -broadcloths will not sell. From September to December, there is a -demand for them. Red and green are the favourite colours. In a bale of -twelve pieces, each seventeen and a half to eighteen yards in length, -there should be five of red, four of green, one of yellow, one of light -blue, one of light purple. - -_Steel_, in tubs of a small size, sells readily in small parcels.[A] - -[A] Samples of goods should be in readiness, which will save great -trouble. - -The inland trade is a very important branch, especially with Lau, and -the Chinese province of Yunan, &c. This domestic traffic is carried -on, on the Menam, in flat-boats, and on bamboo-rafts. Boats leave Lau -in August and September, when the river is swollen by the periodical -rains, and arrive at Bang-kok in November and December. They bring -stic-lac, benzoin, raw silk, ivory, beeswax, horns, hides, timber, -&c., &c. The articles of merchandise exported into China, through -Lau, consist of coarse woollens, broadcloths, cutlery, gold, copper, -lead, &c., &c. The Chinese are the principal foreign traders. The -Siamese prosecute a large foreign and coasting trade to China, Camboja, -Cochin-China, the Malay peninsula, to Singapore, to the eastern coast -of Sumatra, to the bay of Bengal, &c., &c. The traffic between the -countries lying on the shores of the straits of Malacca and the bay of -Bengal, is generally conducted by three different routes, across the -Malay peninsula; and then reshipped, in boats, on the gulf of Siam, -to the capital: the imports being British and Indian goods, opium, -esculent swallows' nests, &c., &c. - -The population of the capital and Bang-kok, with their suburbs, may -fairly be rated at four hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, I -deem it best to state this fact, so that it may be seen that, in a -commercial point of view, it is a place of great importance. - -[Sidenote: COINS AND WEIGHTS.] - -The Siamese coin no money strictly speaking; they use _bent_ bars of -silver, made nearly round and stamped with a star. Those of the largest -size are called baats, and by Europeans _ticals_. They are of the value -of _sixty-one_ cents and a small fraction. The halves are denominated -two salings, the quarters one saling; there are also eighths, called -one tuang. They have a gold currency formed in the same manner and of -various values; they have no copper or tin coin: occasionally, some of -the latter may be seen brought from Calantin, &c.: cowries or bias are -used in their stead. - -The _currency_ is as follows: one thousand and fifty cowries or bias -make one tuang; two tuangs, one saling; four salings, one baat or tical. - -Imaginary or money of account: four baats, one tamling; twenty -tamlings, one catty or eighty baats; fifty catties, one pecul or one -thousand baats.[A] - -[A] The baat or tical has been assayed in Calcutta and valued at two -shillings and sixpence sterling. I have given it the same value as the -European traders--viz., sixty-one cents. - -The _weights_ are the same as in China, being the pecul and catty; one -hundred catties making one pecul; one catty, one and a third pounds -avoirdupois. The fathom is the measure in most frequent use, being -six feet, six inches; also, twelve finger-breadths make one span; two -spans, one cubit; four cubits, one fathom; twenty fathoms, one sen; one -hundred sens, one yuta or yut. - -[Sidenote: TREATY WITH SIAM.] - -On the twentieth day of March, 1833, corresponding to Wednesday, -the last of the fourth month of the year 1194, called -_Pi-ma-rong-chat-tava-sok_, (or the year of the dragon,) the final -articles of the first commercial treaty between Siam and the United -States were concluded after a negotiation of twenty-two days, and on -the first day of April they were signed and sealed; but only a single -copy of the treaty could be obtained, notwithstanding the promise of -the chao-phaya praklang, one of the first ministers of state, that two -copies should be furnished me. No other reason was assigned for this -breach of promise, than that it was not customary. - -It is written in four languages, viz.: Siamese, Chinese, Portuguese, -and English, and is of the great length of nine feet and seven inches. -Previously to the signing of the treaty, the charges were not defined -and fixed; now, all obstacles and impositions are removed, and but a -single charge is made of seventeen hundred ticals on every Siamese -fathom of seventy-eight inches on the breadth of the vessel, if -merchandise is imported, and fifteen hundred if specie only is brought. -This charge is in full of all import and export duties either on -vessel or cargo. The sixth article of the treaty relates to debtors. -As foreigners were equally liable to the penalties with the natives, -I deemed it most proper to guard against the barbarity, which gave -the creditor in fact the power of life and death over his debtor, -and therefore in the early stage of the negotiation, I proposed an -article (which was agreed to) which released the American citizen -only, from all pains and penalties, by delivering to his creditors all -the property he possessed. About a fortnight after its conclusion, -the minister inserted an additional clause, making it reciprocal, so -that the Siamese debtor might receive the same benefit of the American -creditor. He was told it would have an unequal operation, as it would -very rarely occur that an American would incur a debt to a Siamese; -but he insisted that it should remain as it was, although I proposed -nullifying the whole article. But still if any American feels disposed -to take advantage of a code of laws written in blood, it will readily -suggest to him that a transfer of his debt to a responsible Siamese, -will give him a free and unimpeded course to hunt down a prostrate -victim. - -An attempt was made to reduce the measurement-duty on vessels bringing -specie _only_, to eight hundred ticals (instead of fifteen hundred) but -it did not prove successful, and a similar failure was the result of -another proposition to admit vessels wishing to purchase a part of a -cargo only, by paying a proportionate part of the measurement-duty. - -The treaty has removed all obstacles to a lucrative and important -branch of our commerce; the merchant being left free to sell or -purchase where and of whom he pleases. Prior to this period, the -American merchant was not allowed to sell to a private individual the -cargo he imported, nor purchase a return cargo. The king claimed the -exclusive right of purchase and sale in both cases; and furthermore, -such parts of the imported cargoes as were most saleable, were selected -and taken at his own valuation, which was always at prices far below -the market value, as _profit_ was the sole object in making the -purchases. - -Secondly: he also fixed the prices of the articles wanted for return -cargoes, and no individual dared offer any competition either in buying -or selling. - -Thirdly: the American merchant not only did not obtain a fair value for -his merchandise, but it is notorious that he had to pay from twenty to -thirty per cent. more for the produce of the country than he could have -purchased it for from private hands. - -Fourthly: the vexations occasioned by delay were a matter of serious -complaint. It was no uncommon circumstance to be delayed from two to -four months beyond the stipulated time. The loss sustained, say for -three months' charter, and interest on the capital employed for that -time, &c., &c., amounted to several thousand dollars. In addition to -all these evils the merchant was frequently obliged to take payment in -_inferior_ articles, at the _highest_ market value for the _best_, and -even _unsaleable_ merchandise at high prices. - -Fifthly: the duties on imports were not permanent; they varied from -eight to fifteen per centum. - -Sixthly: the export duty on sugar of the first quality, was one dollar -and a half (Spanish) per pecul, which was not less than from 25 to 30 -per centum upon the first cost, and other articles were charged in the -same proportion. - -Seventhly: port-charges and other exactions were not defined and fixed, -but they generally amounted to not less than three and a half (Spanish) -dollars per ton. - -Eighthly: Presents were expected, and in fact exacted, from the king to -the lowest custom-house officer, according to the usages of Asiatics; -there were but a few vessels that did not pay upward of a thousand -dollars, if they had a valuable cargo. The difference, therefore, in -exactions and impositions, prior and subsequent to the conclusion of -the treaty, may be stated on a vessel of two hundred and fifty tons, -having a twenty-five feet beam, as follows: The duties, _formerly_, -were from eight to fifteen per cent. on _imports_; the average rate was -not less than ten per cent. - - Now, on a cargo of $40,000, it would give the sum of $4,000 - - _Add_ to this $1,50 per pecul on sugar exported, - which was equal, at the lowest calculation, to twenty-five - per cent., on $40,000, which gives 10,000 - - _Also_, $3,50 per ton for charges 975 - - And presents, say 1,000 - - If there is added the _difference_ in the sale of the - imported cargo to the king or to individuals, the estimate - cannot be less than twenty per cent., and probably - twice that amount would not cover the loss, 8,000 - - _Add_ to this an additional price paid to the king on - the produce exported, say it was twenty per cent., is 8,000 - - Three months' charter, arising from detention, at - $900 per month 2,700 - - Three months' loss of interest is 600 - ------- - $35,275 - - From this amount deduct the _single charge_ of - 1,700 ticals per each Siamese fathom on the _breadth_ - of vessels bringing merchandise. If only specie were - brought, 1,500 ticals. - - Sixty-eight thousand ticals at sixty-one cents, on - seventy-five feet beam, is 4,275 - ------- - Making a difference of not less than $31,000 - -The result is, that the treaty has secured to us a valuable branch -of commerce which was entirely destroyed, and which will continue to -increase vastly, as the Siamese recover from the serious disasters -which resulted from the inundation of the valley of the Menam, for -upward of three months, during the year 1831. - - -_Exports from the river Menam (Siam) during the year 1832, showing the -quantity and market value of each article._ - - NAMES OF EXPORTS. QUANTITY. PRICES. - - Pepper, 38,000 peculs, 10 ticals per pecul. - Sugar, 96,000 peculs, 15,000 1st sort, 8 do. do. - 60,000 2d do. 7 a. 7½ do. do. - 20,000 3d sort, 6 a. 6½ ticals per pcl. - 1,000 Preto or - black, 2½ a. 3½ do. do. - Sugar candy, 5,000 peculs, 15 16 do. do. - Tin, 1,600,000 lbs., 1,200 do. 20 22 do. do. - Tobacco, 3,500 do. 100 bundles, 4 ticals. - Benzoin, 100 do. 50 a. 55 peculs. - Cardamom, 73,150 lbs., 550 1st sort, 100 a. 360 a. 380. - do. 2d do. 150 a. 280 300. - 3d do. 300 200 220. - Ivory, 40,000 lbs., 300 peculs, 160 a. 180. - Bar-iron, 2,260,000 lbs., 20,000 do. 3½ a. 4. - Kwalahs or iron pans, - 60,000, 1st size, 4 ticals per peculs. - 2d do. 3 do. do. - 3d do. 2½ do. do. - 4th do. 2 do. do. - 5th do. 2 do. do. - 6th do. 1½ do. do. - 7th do. 1¼ do. do. - Aguils or eagle-wood, 10 a. 12 do. 1st sort, 400 ticals. - 2d and 3d, 250 and 200. - Cotton, 30 a. 40,000 26 clear, 8 in seed. - Swallows' nest, - (esculent,) 10 a. 12 1st sort, 10,000. - 2d do. 6,000. - 3d do. 4,000. - Bichos do Mar or Tripang, - Camphire, Malayan, - Wax, yellow, 1,800, do. 55 a. 60. - Gamboge, 250, 6 quantities averaging from 40 to 80 - p. p. - Varnish, 500, 50 per pecul. - Salt, 8,000 peculs, 2½ a. 3½ per pecul. - Dried fish, 60,000, 3 a. 4 do. do. - Hog's lard, 14 or 15 do. do. - Sapan-wood, 200,000, from 1 a. 3½ salings per pec. - Teak-timber, 127,000 logs, - Rose-wood, 200,000 peculs, 3 salings per pecul. - Barks, Mangrove, &c., 200,000 bundles, 6 ticals per 100 bundles. - Leather, Deer, 100,000, 20 a. 25 per 100. - Iron-wood, (ebony) 1,500 peculs, 2½ peculs. - Dried meat, 1,600, 6 per do. - Copper 300, 50 a. 55. - Rhinoceros skins, not ascertained. - Buffalo do. 1,500, 8 a. 10. - Ox do. 300, 7 a. 8. - Elephant do. not ascertained. - Tiger do. do. - Leopard do. do. - Bear do. do. - Snake do. do. - Civet-cat do. do. - " " Drug, not ascertained. - Dragons' blood, do. - Sharks' fins, 65 to 70 peculs, a. 65 per peculs. - Buffalo and ox horns, 300 do. 3 a. 4 per do. - Deers' antlers, do. soft, 26,000 pairs, 1½ a. 2 ticals per pair. - do. horns, do. 3,000 peculs, 8 a. 9 per pecul. - Ox and Buffalo bones, 300, 1 do. - Elephant do. 450, 7 do. - Rhinoceros do. do. - do. horns, do. - Tiger, the entire bodies - for China market, 56 a. 60 do. - Peacock's tails, 1,200 trains, 7 a. 8 per pecul. - Raw silk, (from Lao) 200 peculs, 200 ticals per do. - Rough pitch, 10,000, 3 to 8 do. do. - Wood oil, 15,000, 3 to 6 do. do. - Takan, an inferior or - bastard Cardamom, 4,000, 32 to 40 do. do. - Feathers, 4,000 pairs of - wings, 65 a. 100 do. do. - Large feathers for fans, 100 to 150 pairs, 30 ticals per pecul. - Fish skins, 1,800 peculs, 30 do. do. - Jagra or palm-sugar, 150,000 pots, 4 to 6 pots 1 tical. - Rattans, 200,000 bundles, 4 ticals per 100 bundles. - - The foregoing is the quantity ascertained by the government for - 1832, to which may be added a considerable quantity for each - article smuggled, and principally by the Chinese. The exports, - therefore, for the year 1832, taking the foregoing statement to be - correct, amount to a sum not less than _four_ and a _half millions - of dollars_. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - - DEPARTURE FROM BANG-KOK FOR - SINGAPORE--SINGAPORE--COMMERCE--BUGIS--MARITIME LAWS--DEPARTURE - FROM SINGAPORE--STRAITS OF GASPAR--ISLAND OF JAVA--POPULATION OF - JAVA--CLOTHING--DYING--STAMPING--FRUITS--BIRDS. - - -Having brought my mission to a close in a very satisfactory manner, -I was, on the evening of the third of April, invited to wait upon -the praklang. The principal object of the visit was to reiterate his -assurances, that every facility should be granted to American commerce, -both in selling their cargoes, and in collecting their debts. And, -furthermore, to state, that the presents the king and himself desired, -should be returned with the ratified treaty. - -The following list was then given of the presents desired by the king -and the praklang:-- - -For the king: Five pairs of stone statues of men and women; some of the -natural and some of the larger size, _clothed in various costumes of -the United States_. Ten pair of vase lamps, of the largest size, plain -glass. One pair of swords, with gold hilt and scabbards; the latter of -_gold_, not _gilt_--shape of blade, a little curved. - -For the praklang: One mirror, (or pair of mirrors,) three cubits long -by two broad, fixed in a stand, so as to form a screen; frame, carved -and gilt; back, painted green. Soft, hairy carpeting, of certain -dimensions; and some flower and fruit trees, planted, or in seed, with -flower-pots. - -I then took leave, after many demonstrations of good-will. - -Some presents of the productions of the country, were sent to me, of -very mean quality, and of inconsiderable value. - -On the fourth, the same boats being in readiness, which brought us to -the city, in the evening we embarked, reached the ship in the morning, -and the day following, made sail down the gulf. - -Our passage to Singapore (a distance of less than a thousand miles) -occupied us till the first of May; the winds being very light and -adverse, and constantly shifting between the south and southeast -points. On the nineteenth, we made the group of islands, called the -"Great Redangs." On the twenty-second, when Pulo Brala was in sight, we -spoke a Portuguese brig from Singapore, having on board an assistant -Roman Catholic bishop for Siam, and a new consul, to take the place -of Mr. Silviera; two days subsequently, we fell in with two small -Cochin-Chinese junks, from the province of Nhiatrang, for Singapore, -who sent a boat alongside, and asked most beseechingly for water, -having been, as they said, destitute of any for the last six days, as -they had brought only an earthen pot or two, for the supply of two -vessels; being apparently wretchedly poor, a full cask was given them, -after they had drunk to satiety. We successively fell in with Pulo -Timoan and Pulo Aor. The vicinity of these islands is remarkable, as -well as the southeastern point of the Malay peninsula, for piratical -vessels, which are constantly cruising about in search of small trading -vessels. On the thirtieth, we were swept by the violence of the current -on the Romania bank, where we anchored in nine and three quarters -fathoms of water; the following day we anchored about two miles from -Singapore, near to our old friend, Captain Lambert, of his Britannic -majesty's frigate, Alligator. - -[Sidenote: SINGAPORE.] - -We called upon governor Ibbetson, who presides over this island, -Malacca, and Pulo Penang, and were received by him and the Honourable -Mr. Bonham with much hospitality and kindness; and subsequently, by -the Honourable Sir Benjamin H. Malhin, the recorder, and lady. The -situation of the governor's house is upon a hill, which overlooks the -town and the numerous islands in the straits. It is a most delightful -situation; the approach to it, from the base of the hill, is lined on -the right side, by nutmeg and other spice trees, &c., being the garden -belonging to the government; but owing to some cause, they do not -succeed well--the fruit does not arrive at maturity. The country in -the immediate neighbourhood of the town, excepting in the direction of -the new harbour, and a few other spots, is still in a state of nature, -the soil giving an ungrateful return for the labour of the husbandman. -Fruit succeeds well, even the delicate mangusteen; but wheat, coffee, -and pepper have repeatedly failed, or the crops have been so -inconsiderable, as to be unworthy of attention. Gambir, alias catechu -or terra japonica, succeeds well; it is used as a die, or chewed with -areca. Esculent plants and farinaceous roots, natural to a tropical -climate, are here in perfection. This island is about twenty-seven -miles long, and from five to fifteen miles in breadth. It is separated -from the Malay peninsula by the old strait of its own name, being from -one fourth to a mile and half in width. - -About three leagues south of the settlement is an extensive chain of -islands, very thinly inhabited by a race of savages. This open space -of water is a continuation of the straits of Malacca, and is called -the strait of Singapore; it is the high road of commerce between the -eastern and western parts of Asia. The town of Singapore was founded -by the British in 1819, and was then only the resort of fishermen and -pirates; and was carefully avoided by the regular traders. The year -following its occupation, it was visited by nearly seventy thousand -tons of shipping, and of this amount, about one fifth were native -vessels, belonging principally to the various islands in the Indian -Archipelago. The establishment of this as a free port, most seriously -affects the commerce of Batavia; it has drawn from it a most valuable -native trade. - -The town is formed upon a regular plan, the streets intersecting each -other at right angles; the streets and roads are in excellent order, -the former having sidewalks. There is a great number of well-built -houses of brick, which are stuccoed, and have tile roofs. Many of the -houses have galleries or porticoes, and the grounds are prettily laid -out with trees and shrubbery. On the less valuable streets, the houses -and shops are built of wood, and covered with tile. On the outskirts, -the houses are thatched, and more particularly those inhabited by the -Bugis and Balinese, and the poorest class of Chinese. A good wooden -bridge connects the peninsula or western part with the eastern. On -this creek, or arm of the sea, into which empties a rivulet, are -situated the principal warehouses; and here small vessels discharge -their cargoes into very convenient and well arranged buildings. The -quays are built of stone, with very convenient slips, and good cranes -for landing goods. The island being situate within a degree and a half -of the equator, no material change takes place--a perpetual summer -reigns--flowers never cease blowing, and fruits are ever in blossom -or progressing towards maturity. It is an old saying, that not a day -passes at Singapore without rain; but it has been well ascertained -that the rainy and fair days are about equal in number throughout the -year; although in some years it has rained about two hundred and forty -days, or two thirds of the year. November and December are the coolest -and most rainy months; the thermometer then falls occasionally as low -as 72°, and in the hot and dry months of April and May, it attains to -90°. The climate is remarkably salubrious, and fevers and dysentery, -which are so fatal within the tropics, are here of rare occurrence, -owing, it is supposed, to the free current of air which passes through -the straits; but wherever its beneficial influence is excluded, those -diseases are very fatal; and this is the case about that beautiful and -romantic spot, the new harbour, situate but a few miles to the westward -of the town. The island is also free of those dreadful scourges, storms -and hurricanes, and violent gusts of wind. - -I visited (in company with Captain Lambert, and the commander of the -Peacock) the person who is styled the sultan of Johore, who ceded -this and other islands to the British, for the sum of sixty thousand -dollars, and an annuity of twenty-four thousand per year. He was -formerly chief judge to Sultan Mahomet, of Johore. At his decease, -he seized upon this part of his possessions. The sultan's residence -is surrounded by a high brick wall, having strong gates, guarded by -soldiers. Within it is a new mosque; a hall of audience, neatly built; -with many other houses of brick and thatch. We were conducted into the -hall, which is used as a banqueting place also; and shortly after, -we heard the loud breathing of a person who seemed in deep distress, -endeavouring to ascend the staircase; finally the sultan made his -appearance, and with great difficulty reached the centre of the room. -I verily thought he would have died within the first ten minutes, of -suffocation. He was most grossly, or rather beastly fat, and reminded -us of the Anthropophagi, or men whose heads do grow beneath their -shoulders; for neck, he had none. His eyes were enormously large, and -they had the terrific appearance of having started from their sockets. -He was truly a most disgusting and frightful object. After he was -able to breathe a little freely, the usual compliments passed, and -inquiries made, a feast was brought in, consisting of a great variety -of articles, which were neatly served up by numerous waiters. Two fine -lads, his sons, accompanied him; they were handsomely dressed, wearing -turbans, and armed with daggers. The sultan expressed himself gratified -with the visit, and we then took leave. - -[Sidenote: POPULATION OF SINGAPORE.] - -The population, on the first of January, 1833, was ascertained to -amount to twenty thousand nine hundred and seventy-eight persons. Of -these, fifteen thousand one hundred and eighty-one were males, and -_only_ five thousand nine hundred and ninety-seven _females_. This -motley group are made up of--one hundred and nineteen Europeans; ninety -Indo British; three hundred native Christians; thirty-five Armenians; -two Jews; ninety-six Arabs; seven thousand one hundred and thirty-one -Malays; eight thousand five hundred and seventeen Chinese; one thousand -eight hundred and nineteen natives of Coromandel; five hundred and -five Hindoos; six hundred and forty-five Javanese; one thousand nine -hundred and twenty-six Bugis, Balanese, &c.; thirty-seven Caffrees; -two Parsees. The country and plantations contain seven thousand three -hundred and sixty-two; the islands, which form a dependancy, of which -there are about fifty, contain one thousand and seventy-two; total, -eight thousand four hundred and thirty-four: which leave for the town -of Singapore, twelve thousand five hundred and forty-four, exclusive of -the military and convicts, which amount to about one thousand. - -Singapore is merely a mart for the exchange of merchandise for the -products of Europe, India, and China, the Indian Archipelago, and of -the neighbouring states--the imports from one part forming the exports -to another. The total value of _imports_, for the years 1831 and 1832, -was seventeen millions, eight hundred and nine thousand nine hundred -and forty-eight sicca rupees; and the exports, fifteen millions, -fifty-one thousand five hundred and seventy-three. Of this amount, -nearly one eighth, or about nine hundred thousand dollars in value, -was conducted by native vessels. The fixed exchange of sicca rupees, -is two hundred and ten and a half for one hundred Spanish dollars. The -currency is the Spanish dollar divided into cents. The common weight -is the pecul, of one hundred and thirty-three and a third pounds, -avoirdupois, divided into one hundred catties. The English gross -hundred is also used, as well as the neat hundred. Salt, rice, and -coarse, or unpearled sago, by the koyan, of about forty peculs. - -In the harbour, there may be frequently seen vessels from England, -France, Holland, and other parts of Europe; from the Brazils, Cape -of Good Hope, Mauritius, New South Wales; from Arabia, and various -parts of British and Portuguese India; from Siam, the Malay peninsula, -Camboja, and various ports in Cochin-China, from the gulf of Siam -to the gulf of Tonquin, (Tung-king;) from Macao, and various parts -of the provinces of Canton and Tokien, the former being called the -"Red-headed Junks," and the latter the "Green-headed," owing to their -being distinguished in this manner by being painted with these colours; -from Manila, Dutch and native craft from Java, Banca, and Bulembang; -and by Malay craft only, from the river Campar, and other eastern ports -in Sumatra. But the most important branch of the trade with the Indian -islanders, is that conducted by the _Bugis_ of Wajo, a state of the -Celebes. - -The Bugis write and speak a different language from either of the other -tribes of the Celebes, either of Macassar, Mandar, or Kaili. They have -a code of civil and criminal law, referring to a state of government -and society, of a patriarchal character; and they have also a code -of maritime laws, dated in the year 1087, of the Hejera, (Hegira,) -from which I have made some extracts. Wajo is situated nearly in the -centre of the Celebes, and the Bugis live on the northern banks of an -extensive lake, about twenty-four miles in breadth. The outlet of the -lake is a river, which falls into the bay of Boni, and is navigable -for boats of twenty tons. This people are the sole native carriers of -the Archipelago, possessing an industry and enterprise far beyond the -generality of the Malayan tribes. They carry on an extensive trade with -all the ports in the Celebes; to Bonivati; to the eastern and western -coasts of Borneo; to the islands of Lombok, Bali, Sumbawa, Flores, -Sandal Wood, Ceram, Timor, the Arrows, New Guinea, &c. These bring -gold-dust, bird's-nests, tortoise-shell, camphor, paddy, bichos do -mar, rattans, pepper, shark's-fins, fish-maws, agar-agar, (sea-weed,) -garro-wood, mats, pamore, iron, striped and Tartan cotton cloths, oil, -tallow, mother-of-pearl, shells, &c., &c. Their cargoes are valuable, -and vary from ten to forty thousand dollars. They take, in return, -opium, British and Indian piece-goods, fire-arms, powder, Siamese -iron-pans, &c.; Chinese coarse earthenware, &c., &c. - -[Sidenote: MARITIME LAWS.] - -Maritime laws were established (as stated in a pamphlet published -in the year 1832) by Matorvei Father Gapa, (a practitioner in law,) -at Macassar, in the Hejera 1087, on Monday, the seventeenth day of -Moharain. The first _five_ sections relate to the rate of freight and -passage-money, to and from various places, and explaining a mode of -trade, existing to the present day, in the east. A person having goods, -either natural produce or manufactured, puts his articles on board a -prahu, going to any place where he can find a market: these goods pay a -per centage freight, as laid down by the law, and the passage-money is -included in that charge; and during the voyage, he takes part in rowing -or sailing the prahu, &c., &c. - -The _sixth_ treats on the freight of money. If the amount is one -hundred and ten real, or less, it pays no freight; but if it exceeds -that sum, it pays one half the charge on goods to the same place. -The people of the prow (prahu) are not allowed to land if the master -does not receive the full freight; and further, they must assist in -bailing the water out and fastening the boat: nor are they to be freed -from their charge till she is laid up for the season. The seventh, -eighth, ninth, and tenth sections, treat on a mode of shares in trade -and shipping, viz.:--Seventh: if the owner of the prahu send a man in -charge of her, or if he let her to any one in the season, and furnish -the turobatu and turomudi, together with crew, and arms and stores -sufficient, and the boat should be damaged or lost, through the neglect -of the crew, &c., in that case they must make good the damages, or loss -of the boat: the shares of the turobatu and turomudi, and the expenses -of the prahu, being first paid. Eighth: if the person who sails the -prahu, also furnish the turomudi, turobatu, the crew and arms, then the -owner and the captain go equal shares, after the turomudi, turobatu, -and the expenses of the outfit, are adjusted. - -Ninth: if the owner of the prahu gives her in charge to a captain and -the latter provide turomudi, turobatu and the crew, then the profit -is divided into three equal shares; two are taken by the owner of the -prahu, and one by the captain or person who charters her for the trip; -but previous to the division of the profits, the shares of turomudi, -turobatu and expenses of the prahu are always paid. - -Tenth: if the owner of the prahu furnish the turomudi, and the captain -provide the turobatu, and both go equal shares in the expenses of -the crew, arms, and outfit, &c., in that case the profits are divided -into two equal shares, between the owner and the captain, after the -turomudi, turobatu, and expenses of the prahu are paid. If the persons -who sail the prahu furnish the turomudi, turobatu and crew, arms, -&c., then the profits are divided into three shares: two shares go -to the person who navigates her, and one to the owner. The turomudi, -turobatu and expenses of the prahu being first paid; if there be a -previous contract or agreement between the owner and the navigator, in -that case, the law takes no cognizance in the matter: if not, the law -directs as stated above.[A] - -[A] The turomudi and turobatu have the principal management in -navigating the boat; the _former_ has charge of the after part of the -prahu and seeing the water bailed out, which is done by a bucket and -pulley; the _latter_, that of the rigging and forward part, under the -direction of the turomudi. - -The eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth sections regulating the amount -of passage money, have, no doubt been framed principally, if not -exclusively, in consideration of the practice of carrying slaves -to distant parts for sale, since women are included, who otherwise -never travel by water. The fourteenth and last section, lays down the -principle of a court of native admiralty law, but the latter part is -vague, as well as arbitrary; it is as follows: the captain is king -while at sea, and his will is absolute law, from which there is no -appeal; but if the turomudi, turobatu and the whole crew unite without -one dissentient voice, they can overrule the will of the captain. The -turomudi and turobatu hold the rank of prime ministers while on board -the prahu. If any matter of difference arise between the crew, the -captain, and turomudi, and turobatu, shall sit in council, and give -judgment in the case; and if they should pass the sentence of death -it must be executed; nor can any judgment given at sea be disannulled -after the prahu is returned to port. If an affray or murder should take -place among the crew, and the king's son be involved, or if a freeman -should kill a king's son, in either case the captain is not held -responsible on his arrival into port, by virtue of the power delegated -to him by the king. - -We sailed from Singapore at midnight, on the eleventh of May, intending -to pass through the straits of Rhio, and to touch at the Dutch port -of that name in the island of Bintang. This port is the resort of -American vessels; being excluded from Singapore, they are obliged to -carry on their trade by means of coasting craft, between the two -ports, which causes an additional expense of about two and a half -per centum. The wind being contrary from the southern quarter, and -the strait very narrow, we were compelled to pass again through the -straits of Singapore, between the Malay peninsula and Pedra Branca -(white rock) into the China sea. The current being at times strongly -against us, and the wind very light between S. W. and S. S. E., the -ship was frequently brought to anchor in the China sea, which we found -generally very smooth. On the eighteenth, we saw Pulo Toty--on the day -following, the "Gooning" mountains on Banca. On the twenty-second, we -anchored near the woody island of Gaspar, and sent a boat on shore, but -not an inhabitant was discovered, it being only an occasional place of -resort for pirates. On the twenty-fourth, we anchored in the straits of -Gaspar, between the islands of Leat and Banca, and remained there till -the thirtieth, the wind being from the southward, and contrary, and the -current setting to the northward, from half a knot to three miles per -hour; it being rather feeble between eight and ten, in the morning, and -strongest towards midnight. - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA.] - -On the evening we anchored in the straits, we discovered twenty-one -piratical proas off the north end of Pulo Leat, and fourteen off -the southern point; rockets were thrown up by vessels stationed -midway between the squadrons, during the night. The ship being in -readiness for action, it is probable they discovered lights from -the battle-lanterns on the gun-deck, during the night, for in the -morning only a few scattered vessels were to be seen. We were at -length released from this unpleasant strait, which has shipwrecked so -many lives, either by being drowned, or else murdered by the savages -which infest them, by a fine leading breeze, passed safely into the -Java sea, through the great group called the "Thousand Islands," and -anchored on the fifth of June in the unhealthy roadstead of Batavia, -where at length we found the United States' schooner Boxer, Lieut. -Comdt. Shields, at anchor awaiting our arrival. Having received a -very hospitable invitation from Mr. Forrestice, an American merchant, -of the first respectability, to reside with him at "Fancy Farm," his -beautiful country-seat, three miles from the city, I accepted his kind -offer and remained there for nearly two months. According to history, -the Portuguese first visited Java in 1511, an ambassador having been -sent there from Malacca. The Dutch arrived in 1596, settling first -at Bantam, but they afterward removed to Jacatia and in 1618 it was -seized by them, and all the inhabitants put to the sword who did not -seek safety in flight; the walls of the ancient city were razed to the -ground, the town burnt, and nothing remained but the name. On this spot -was the present city of Batavia founded. The island, with the exception -of five years, from 1811 to 1816, when it was in the possession of the -British, has been held by no European nation, but the Dutch. The island -of Java, called generally by the natives Jawa, is in a straight line -to its extreme points six hundred and sixty-six statute miles: and in -breadth, from fifty-six to one hundred and thirteen. - -The origin of its name remains still in great uncertainty. The northern -coast is low, and generally swampy and unhealthy. The southern coast, -on the contrary, consists of a series of perpendicular rocks, but, -generally speaking, it is low and swampy; in some places suddenly -rising into hills, as about Angier. The largest mountains have an -elevation of from five to twelve thousand feet--they plainly show -their volcanic origin. The western part is called the Sunda country; -and the eastern the Javan, or the country of the true Javanese. They -occupy nearly equal parts; different languages are spoken in the two -districts, mixed a good deal with Malay, which is almost wholly spoken -on the seacoast. Java, like most mountainous countries, is extremely -well watered; but the size of the island precludes the possibility of -there being any large rivers. The rain commences with the westerly -winds, in October, is at its height in December and January, gradually -subsides in March or April, and is succeeded by easterly winds and fair -weather. - -During the rainy season, the whole of the extensive swamp, on which -Batavia stands, is completely submerged, and the roads to the city -are then nearly impassable; this is the season when reptiles abound, -and moschetoes and insects bear sovereign sway. This is not the most -unhealthy part of the year; but when the rains are subsiding, and -expose an immense surface covered with vegetable matter, in a state of -putridity, fevers, dysenteries, &c., &c., are then uplifted by every -breeze, and borne on every wind. - -The principal harbour of the island is Surabaya, which is formed by the -approaching extremities of the eastern part of Java, and the island -of Madura. The second river in size, in Java, empties itself into the -sea at this place. The next in importance, is Batavia; the roadstead is -sheltered by several islands, in the outer part of the bay. - -The population of Java and Madura, in 1815, amounted to four millions, -six hundred and fifteen thousand, two hundred and seventy, of which -ninety-four thousand four hundred and forty-one were Chinese; and the -island of Madura contained two hundred and eighteen thousand, six -hundred and seventy-nine. The population of the principal capitals -was estimated as follows:--Batavia and its extensive suburbs have a -circumference of about twenty-four miles, and contain about three -hundred and fifteen thousand souls; Semarang, is calculated at twenty -thousand; and Surabaya, at twenty-five thousand. - -I herewith present a comparative statement of exports from Java, during -ten years, according to the report of the customs:-- - -[Sidenote: TABLES OF EXPORTS.] - - --------+-------------+------------+-------------+------+----------- - | [A]Coffee. | Pepper. | Indigo. | Arak.| Hides. - --------+-------------+------------+-------------+------+----------- - | Piculs. | Piculs. | Pounds. | Leag.| Ticals. - +-------------+------------+-------------+------+----------- - 1823 | 285,000,000 | 3,000,000 | -- | 605 | 37,000,000 - 1824 | 242,000,000 | 3,000,000 | -- | 468 | 58,000,000 - 1825 | 278,000,000 | 8,000,000 | 6,000,000 | 175 | 45,000,000 - 1826 | 340,000,000 | 4,000,000 | 9,000,000 | 433 | 75,000,000 - 1827 | 400,000,000 | 4,000,000 | 8,000,000 | 464 | 60,000,000 - 1828 | 416,000,000 | 8,000,000 | 23,000,000 | 534 | 47,000,000 - 1829 | 282,000,000 | 6,000,000 | 46,000,000 | 1400 | 44,000,000 - 1830 | 389,000,000 | 6,000,000 | 22,000,000 | 1900 | 30,000,000 - 1831 | 300,000,000 | 6,000,000 | 43,000,000 | 1500 | 63,000,000 - 1832 | 314,000,000 | 7,000,000 | 168,000,000 | 2000 | 82,000,000 - ---------+---------+----------+---------+-------------+----------- - | Mace. | Nutmegs. | Cloves. | Sugar. | Tin. ---------+---------+----------+---------+-------------+----------- - | Piculs. | Piculs. | Piculs. | Piculs. | Piculs. - +---------+----------+---------+-------------+----------- - 1823 | 428 | 1341 | 1726 | 53,000,000 | 12,000,000 - 1824 | 1500 | 3327 | 1750 | 47,000,000 | 30,000,000 - 1825 | 735 | 3471 | 1930 | 16,000,000 | 9,000,000 - 1826 | 556 | 2237 | 542 | 20,000,000 | 14,000,000 - 1827 | 1085 | 6000 | 777 | 32,000,000 | 16,000,000 - 1828 | 600 | 1650 | 1832 | 26,000,000 | 20,000,090 - 1829 | 180 | 1160 | 2431 | 77,000,000 | 24,000,000 - 1830 | 177 | 1300 | 803 | 109,000,000 | 21,000,000 - 1831 | 745 | 2550 | 1531 | 120,000,000 | 30,000,000 - 1832 | 949 | 3850 | 5144 | 246,000,000 | 40,000,000 - -[A] The culture of coffee was first introduced into Java in 1723. - - -----+------------+------------+-------- - | Rice. | Rattans. | Tortsi. - +------------+------------+-------- - | Koy. | Piculs. | Piculs. - 1823 | 4,000,000 | 5,000,000 | 26 - 1824 | 3,000,000 | 2,000,000 | 47 - 1825 | 8,000,000 | 4,000,000 | 22 - 1826 | 6,000,000 | 4,000,000 | 28 - 1827 | 10,000,000 | 15,000,000 | 19 - 1828 | 16,000,000 | 31,000,000 | 37 - 1829 | 15,000,000 | 30,000,000 | 83 - 1830 | 15,000,000 | 5,000,000 | 43 - 1831 | 10,000,000 | 5,000,000 | 95 - 1832 | 23,000,000 | 14,000,000 | 141 - -Java exports, besides the articles named, camphire from Sumatra and -the Celebes. Edible bird's-nests, beeswax, gold dust, precious stones, -saltpetre, teak and other timber, and cabinet woods, tobacco, stic-lac, -brass, European, India and China goods; tin, from Banka, &c.; benzoin, -bichos do mar, rattans, die-woods from Borneo and Sumatra, sandal and -other fine woods, pungent oils, horses, Bali clothes, elephants' teeth, -Japan, copper, leather, areca-nuts, cubebs, boots, shoes, &c. - - ------------+----------------+---------------- - | Imports during | Imports during - | 1831. | 1832. - +----------------+---------------- - Merchandise | 13,500,000 | 12,000,000 - Specie | 1,100,000 | 900,000 - +----------------+---------------- - | 14,600,000 | 12,900,000 - - ------------+----------------+---------------- - | Exports during | Exports during - | 1831. | 1832. - +----------------+---------------- - Produce | 14,100,000 | 21,100,000 - Specie | 600,000 | 950,000 - +----------------+---------------- - | 14,700,000 | 22,050,000 - -Passing the straits of Sunda, not touching at Angier, there arrived -at Batavia, in one year, ending the first of July, 1833, twenty-nine -American vessels, containing eleven thousand one hundred and -thirty-eight tons; and touched at Angier, eighty-two American vessels, -containing twenty-seven thousand one hundred and thirty-nine tons; of -these, twenty-four went to Batavia, the remainder to Canton, Manila, -&c., &c. - -[Sidenote: JAVA.] - -To show the importance, in part, of American commerce, trading to the -eastward of the cape of Good Hope, I herewith subjoin the following -statement of arrivals at two ports in Java. It appears, by the -custom-house returns, that there arrived at Batavia, in one year, -ending the first of July, 1833, twenty-nine American vessels, amounting -to eleven thousand one hundred and thirty-eight tons; and that -eighty-two American vessels, having a tonnage of twenty-seven thousand -seven hundred and thirty-nine tons, touched at Angier during one year, -ending the first of June of the same year. This latter statement does -not show all the vessels that passed through the straits of Sunda, -and from the China and Java seas. If to this statement is added, the -great and valuable conveyance to Sumatra, the bay of Bengal, &c., who -will say it does not deserve the fostering and protecting hand of the -government of the United States? - -With the exception of two vessels, sent out on a special mission, the -Peacock and Boxer, to Asia, &c., the visit of the Potomac to Qualah -Battu, to punish an act of piracy and murder; with the hurried return -of one or two vessels from the western coast of South America, which -barely touch at Manila or Java for refreshments, this most valuable -part of our commerce has been extremely neglected. - -[Sidenote: EMBASSY TO THE EAST.] - -We have also a valuable whale-fishery on the coast of Japan; and -accounts often reach us of American vessels being cast on shore, on the -islands and reefs in the vast Indian Archipelago, the crew being either -murdered or made slaves, until a ransom is paid for them, unless they -are relieved by some humane merchantman or foreign man-of-war: there is -not a single armed vessel of the United States to relieve or protect -them. Our vast commerce to the eastward of the cape of Good Hope, most -assuredly, should not be so overlooked, and left unprotected; at least, -it deserves an occasional visit from our vessels of war, to Madagascar -and the Comoro islands; the ports in east Africa, as far as Zanzibar -and Mombos; to Mocha, in the Red sea, and the western coasts of India. -They should also visit, once in two or three months, the native trading -ports in Sumatra, and proceed as far as the western coast of Japan, -and among the islands of the Indian Archipelago, showing their flag, -and conciliating, by every possible means, the natives they may meet, -by giving them suitable presents occasionally, which would cost but a -small sum. These visits ought to be paid once or twice during each and -every subsequent year. - -The totally unprotected state of our commerce, from the cape of Good -Hope to Japan, deserves the _immediate_ and _constant_ protection and -attention of the American government. The silkworm has never succeeded -well, owing to the want of common information or gross negligence; -therefore the chief material of Javan clothing is cotton. The favourite -cloth made in the country is called batik, of which they make their -sarongs, or loose clothes, which extend from the waist nearly to the -ankles. If it is intended to ornament the cloth with one or more -patterns, it is first steeped in cunjee, or rice-water, to prevent the -colours from running; it is then dried and calendered; hot wax is then -distributed over it, from a vessel, running through a small tube; the -pattern is then formed by being traced, or etched over with a pointed -stick. Every part which is intended to be white, is left covered with -wax. It is then dipped once or more in the die, or else the die is -placed on with a pencil. If two or more colours are intended, every -part of the ground, excepting the new figure, is covered with wax, and -so on till the whole figure is finished: the wax is then melted off -in hot water. The figures have a velvet appearance, the edges of the -different colours lessening in brightness. The only permanent colours -are blue and scarlet, or red. They stamp palempores, or coverlids, with -carved wooden blocks. - -The English imitation cottons, readily fading, have been brought into -disrepute. The kris, or kreese, is universally worn; and the value and -beauty of the weapon, are a test of the rank or wealth of the wearer. -In full dress, two are frequently worn, and sometimes even four: it -seems to be an indispensable part of their dress. It is an instrument -more suitable for assassination than for war. - -Neither the nutmeg, clove, nor cinnamon, is indigenous; those which -have been cultivated, are found to have thriven very well. But it does -not comport with the views of the government to extend the cultivation -of spices in Java: it is even in contemplation to destroy the rice -plantations on Sumatra, in the neighbourhood of Bencoolen. The vine -was extensively cultivated in some of the eastern provinces; but the -growth of it was discouraged by the government, as it interfered, at -that time, with the Dutch possessions at the cape of Good Hope. The -soap-tree, of which the kernel is used in washing; the cotton-tree, the -wax and caoutchouc, or the tree which yields the gum-elastic, and the -bamboo and rattan, are common. The cocoa-nut, and gomuti-palms, are -also very abundant, &c., &c. - -[Sidenote: FRUITS OF JAVA.] - -No region of the earth, says Marsden, can boast an equal abundance -and variety of indigenous fruits as Java; but the Mangusteen bears -the pre-eminence among Indian fruits, and, in the opinion of most -foreigners, is superior to the cherrapayer of Lima, or any other known -fruit; it suits the greatest diversity of tastes: is mildly acid, -of a most delicate flavour, by no means luscious or cloying to the -appetite; the shape is globular, the rind about a fourth of an inch in -thickness, and it is as large as a good-sized apple; the shell is of a -deep crimson or rather purple and quite brittle; disrobing it of its -purple coat, there is displayed to view a snow-white pulp, distributed -in three or four cloves; they are soft, very juicy, and occasionally -touched with imperial purple, a colour once thought worthy of royalty -only, and had it been known in ancient days, it would have been called -the royal fruit; within this truly delicate pulp lies the seed. But in -the opinion of the natives and _many_ foreigners who have long resided -in the East, the _durian_ has the highest rank: the odour is peculiarly -offensive to _most_ foreigners, savouring of roasted onions: it has the -appearance of bread-fruit, but the spires of the husk are larger: it -is of a spherical shape, generally, and the size of a man's head, some -being larger; when ripe they are yellow, and crack like a ripe melon, -at the stalk end: they are generally split into quarters, each one -having several small cells, that enclose the fruit, which is covered -with a pellicle or skin, and encloses a stone covered also with a skin; -these are roasted and eaten, and partake of the flavour of chestnuts; -the fruit is the size of a small egg, white as milk but sometimes -tinged with yellow, and as soft as cream; it can only be eaten when -at maturity; it grows on the body or greater branches of the tree, is -the product only of the Indian islands, and does not grow in Siam or -Cochin-China; it is always more expensive than any other fruit. I do -not deem it necessary to name any other fruits, excepting the wild -raspberry, which grows in the mountains, and the fruits named in the -account of Buitenzorg. - -Of esculent vegetables which contribute to the food and sustenance of -man, rice is the most important, of which it is said there are upward -of a hundred varieties. Maize or Indian corn ranks next. They cultivate -also wheat, the sweet and the American or European potato, the yam or -ubi, and pulse in a great variety; the bread-fruit also, and most of -the vegetables of colder climates, the seed being imported continually -from the cape of Good Hope. - -Neither milk, nor any preparation from it, is prized by the natives; -salted eggs are an important article of food: they are covered with -equal parts of salt and ashes, or salt and brick-dust, made into a -thick paste: it preserves them for many months. - -The chewing of areca-nut, as well as siri or betel-leaf, tobacco -and gambir, is common to all classes. Every person who is able owns -a siri-box, more or less valuable; opium is exceedingly coveted by -them, and is both chewed and smoked; added to these is the disgusting -practice of holding tobacco between the lips, and at one corner of the -mouth, the saliva from it staining the lips, and running over the chin; -they use, also, arrack, and an intoxicating liquor made from the gomuti -palm. - -There are no metals or precious stones, but there are many minerals. - -They possess a fine breed of horses, strong, fleet, and well made, of -about thirteen hands high--also the ox, buffalo, goats, some sheep, and -the hog. Of wild beasts, there are several species of tiger, cat, the -jackall, wild dog, rhinoceros or wild Javan ox, the wild hog and the -stag, the rib-faced and axis deer, the weasel, squirrel, and a variety -of monkeys. The turkey, goose, duck, fowls; also, two kinds of parrots: -the peacock, falcon, carrion-crow, and the owl. The number of birds of -distinct species are said not much to exceed two hundred. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - - BATAVIA--BURYING-GROUNDS--SERVANTS' WAGES--ACADEMY OF - ARTS--DEPARTURE FROM BATAVIA--ARRIVAL AT ANGIER--DEPARTURE FROM - ANGIER--RED SEA--ARRIVAL AT MOCHA--TURKIE BEN AL MAS--PALACE OF - MOCHA--CURRENCY AT MOCHA--TRANSPARENT STONE--COLOUR OF THE RED SEA. - - -[Sidenote: BATAVIA.] - -I now proceed to give some account of Batavia, &c. Although this -city is situated in the midst of low, marshy ground, abounding in -rice-swamps, and considered as the most unhealthy spot in the world, -yet it is, nevertheless, a great commercial place, and is much -frequented by vessels bound to or from the China sea, Hindostan, -Sumatra, Singapore, &c., &c.; and it is the only place in the world -which has any trade to Japan, with the exception of China. It is -most conveniently situated to obtain commercial information, and -for refreshments. Before Singapore was made a free port, it was the -principal mart for the country trade of the East Indies. Subsequently -it has much diminished, and the very valuable trade with the Bugis, -or natives of the Celebes, and other islanders of the Indian -Archipelago, has been entirely diverted to Singapore, where the traders -can always obtain a ready sale for their cargoes, and receive, in -return, European, India, and Chinese goods, at more moderate prices, -without having to pay any duties, or be subject to those inconvenient -restrictions, which are so annoying in Dutch ports. - -The immense ware-houses, running from street to street, situated on the -great canal and river, leading into the bay, which were once burdened -with merchandise, are now scantily filled, or nearly empty; and there -are but few places so large as Batavia, in the present day, which show -less signs of an active commerce, less bustle on the quays, or exhibit -a greater degree of dulness, and want of bustle in the streets. This is -owing, in part, to the belligerent attitude of Holland and Belgium; -the alarming war with the Sumatrans; the establishment of a free port -by the British; but more particularly, to the narrow-contracted views -of the government, in regard to commerce. The Dutch government wish -to drive all foreign commerce from their ports in Netherlands' India, -with the exception of the native traders of the Indian isles; and -to extend, if it be possible, their unjust and iniquitous system of -monopolies, and of forced cultivation, upon the natives, which have -so often driven them to despair and revolt, causing whole districts, -containing many thousands, to abandon their lands and their homes, -and fly to the fastnesses of the mountains, or to what are called the -native provinces--preferring a very precarious mode of living, to being -made the worst of slaves to the worst of masters, by being forced to -cultivate coffee, and then to sell it for about half its fair market -value, to the Dutch company, leaving them, in fact, no means of support. - -Old Batavia is but the shadow of what it was in former days. It was -once called the "Queen of the East;" her merchants were "princes of the -earth," in point of wealth, and lived in a style of magnificence, which -far surpassed every other to the eastward of the cape of Good Hope, -with the exception, in more modern days, of Calcutta. A traveller, -visiting Batavia at the present day, inquires for the splendid palaces, -noble avenues of trees, and neat canals, with the gay pleasure-boats, -which used to be seen sporting on their surface, accompanied with -music, and graced with numberless enchanting females. He then visits -the most fashionable streets of former days, and a truly painful sight -is presented at every step: of choked canals covered with slime, and -green stagnant pools, a resort of frogs and snakes, and other reptiles. -The noble avenues of trees, which led to splendid habitations, and the -heavy, massive gateways, are still seen; but the houses are either -crumbling in the dust, or else a miserable palm-leaf hovel encumbers -the space they once ornamented. But the gay inhabitants, who once gave -life and animation to these fair scenes, where are they? Alas! fled -with "the years beyond the flood." Their bodies lie mouldering, not -only in the tens of thousands, or even the hundreds of thousands, but -in the millions of graves which occupy, for many miles in extent, the -city and its suburbs. - -They present a most painful and humiliating spectacle to every -beholder, whose feelings are not wholly callous to so sad a scene. The -tenantable houses which remain, are occupied by a squalid and sickly -race of Chinese, Malays and Bugis, who are generally very poor, and -live upon the scantiest substance, being _unable_ to remove to a better -country, away from the pestiferous air which destroys their health, -occasioned by deleterious swamps, stagnant pools, and the miasma which -is constantly generating from the decomposition of vegetable matter. - -It may be thought that I have given an exaggerated statement of the -frightful mortality which _has_ prevailed, and frequently _does_ -prevail at Batavia--which clothes the ground with graves, and encumbers -it with monuments; but the returns of the Dutch records, according -to Raynal, give the deaths of _eighty-seven_ thousand sailors and -soldiers, in the hospitals, from 1714 to 1776; and upward of one -million of inhabitants, in the very short space of twenty-two years, -from 1730 to 1752, which can no longer leave any doubts as to its -perfect correctness. - -Since the walls of the city were demolished by the British, and a great -number of filthy and useless canals have been filled up, the general -opinion is, (and more particularly within the last half dozen years,) -that the old town is rather less sickly than formerly; however, no new -houses are being erected within the city proper, but are extending -altogether beyond the old barrier, in a southerly and easterly -direction towards the country, from two to five miles, where it has -been found much more healthy. - -Stately avenues of trees line the roads, and the few canals remaining -are kept more clean than formerly. The modern houses are airy and -spacious, generally of one story in height, and surrounded generally, -with very wide piazzas. The avenues leading to the houses are kept -neatly gravelled; and the grounds are adorned with trees, shrubs, -and flowers: showing a correct taste which seems (to make use of -a mercantile phrase) to have been imported from England, for it -is quite at variance with the general style of laying out Dutch -pleasure-grounds. In fact, there is an air of neatness and comfort -displayed, which serves to divert the mind from dwelling too much on -the fact, that you are living in the midst of this store-house of -disease, where you are constantly warned by the inhabitants to keep -away from every partial draft of air, for if the perspiration is -checked, a fever or diarrhoea, or more fatal dysentery will ensue; and -you are again warned, if the sea-breeze should set in _early_, before -the sun has had time to absorb the exhalations, the malaria of the -marshes, to keep within your room with closed doors. The night air is -also highly deleterious, and the fervid rays of a noonday sun not less -fatal, so that no person who is able fails to keep a carriage. Constant -and profuse perspiration soon impairs the digestive organs, loss of -appetite follows and debility ensues: mental and bodily exertion -becomes painful, and the health is soon impaired. - -These are a _few_ among the _many, many_ drawbacks of an unhealthy -tropical climate; yet every climate is to be found in Java, from -the most unhealthy to the most salubrious, from swamps teeming with -exhalations in the highest degree noxious, to the pure mountain-breeze, -which brings health on its wings, and is redolent with the sweets -wafted from a thousand fragrant flowers. - -The merchants go to the city about nine, take tiffin at their -counting-houses at twelve, return to the country about four, and dine -between six and seven. As soon as the lights appear on the table, it -is the signal for the sport of myriads of moschetoes and midges. Boots -are then indispensable, unless the feet and ankles are otherwise well -covered; when the knife and fork do not claim the attention, your hands -are industriously employed in driving off these eternal pests from the -exposed parts of the body. - -The hospitality of the English, Scotch, and Americans, is proverbial, -and they live upon the most amicable terms; there is none of that petty -jealousy, and bad feeling, which is seen to exist among rival houses, -in many other places. - -The custom-house stands on the brink of the great canal, which leads -into the bay, and where it once terminated, it probably extends now -three quarters of a mile beyond it, to the barrier or break-water, -which has lately been erected at its entrance; it is extremely shallow, -suitable only for very small craft, and as it is constantly filling up -by accumulations of filth from the city, and by mud and sand thrown in -by the sea-breeze, it is probable it will within a few years, extend -as far again into the bay. As a baneful monopolizing spirit seems to -pervade this government in almost every particular, even the poor -fishermen are not exempt, who labour continually in a broiling sun, or -a deluge of rain, following their vocation far at sea. Their fish are -sold at public auction at two o'clock every afternoon, so that the -government may take their share of the "_fishes_" which fall to their -lot; the "_loaves_" are obtained from the poor cultivators of the soil. -The retailers, mostly Chinese, buy and hawk them about in baskets every -where, at a very considerably advanced price. - -The criminals repairing and extending the canal, may be hourly seen -in the water, among caymans or huge alligators, and are said never -to have been molested by them, but in one instance, while a white -man is certain to be seized at once. If the alligator show a decided -preference for the whites, the buffaloes throughout India show a very -strong aversion to them, and either attack them or run from them in -dismay; yet the smallest Indian boy has them under complete control. - -The buffaloes, on the great western prairies in the United States, -show the same aversion to the whites, or probably to all hunters, -and, whenever they see them, they fly in great terror; the hunters, -therefore, always go to leeward of the herd. - -[Sidenote: BURYING-GROUNDS.] - -The Chinese burying-grounds occupy a vast extent of land in the -suburbs; I may say, with truth, of many miles. Near one of them is an -old temple, in which are deposited, probably, fifteen or twenty idols, -principally made of granite, dug up at various times, on the island. -They are said to be of Javanese origin, but they must have been brought -thither by Bramins in bygone days. The Chinese worship them, as they -do every thing else that bears the remotest appearance to "the human -face divine," or any of the hideous images representing the demon of -mischief--any thing, but the one, great, invisible Being. The public -archives are kept in the extensive building, called the palace, at -Weltevoredem. - -The governor does not occupy this building, when in town, but a much -smaller one, on the street of which the "Genootschap," or academy of -arts and sciences occupies one part, in the building kept for public -parties, called the "Harmonic." - -The palace is a noble building, and kept in good order. In the audience -hall are about forty pictures, of the Dutch governor-generals of -Netherlands' India. Some of them are dressed in very quaint costume, -and if their countenances are faithfully represented, I must say, no -man would willingly change faces with the greater part of them. There -are a few, however, of noble and manly features, who have nothing -savouring of the "thumbscrew" in their countenances. _Generally_, the -paintings are bad--some four or five are very valuable. A full-length -portrait of his present majesty is placed at the head of the room. - -The wages paid to servants have nearly doubled within a few years; the -present rate is from six to twelve guilders (equal to two dollars, -forty cents, or four dollars, eighty cents) per month, out of which -they furnish their provisions in part, which consist principally of -rice, it being a very cheap article in Java. Considering that each -servant attends to but one piece of duty--that one bujong attends to -the cutting of grass only, for two horses, which occupies but a small -part of the day, and that the larger portion of the time of the almost -innumerable servants is spent in idleness, labour is excessively high, -compared with that of any other country, even the dearest parts of the -United States. The house-servants, with few exceptions, are Malays, who -speak no English. - -The Genootschap, or Academy of Arts and Sciences, has a small library -of a few hundred volumes. With the exception of a model of a bridge, -a Javanese lion, some half dozen miniature models of Japanese houses, -warlike instruments, a few coins, and a few common shells, there is -nothing worth naming. - -Our kind Batavian friends accompanied us on board, and on the -twenty-second of July we sailed for Angier, where we arrived the -following day. During our stay the thermometer ranged in the roadstead -from 83° to 89°, and the barometer between 29.75 to 29.95. There were -only five days on which it rained, and then only light showers. There -were some cases of dysentery, diarrhoea, and fevers, but there were no -deaths among the crew. There were about two cases of dysentery to one -of fever. - -Toward midnight, on the twenty-eighth of July, as the moon was gently -sinking behind the mountains which overlook the campong of Angier, a -light land-breeze suddenly sprung up. Orders were immediately given to -weigh anchor. The shrill whistle of the boatswain and his two mates, -followed by their deep grum voices, calling all hands, "roused many a -heavy sleeper, unwillingly from his hammock," wishing the boatswain, -and his call together, in Davy Jones's locker. We were under way in -a few minutes, in company with the Boxer, proceeding through the -straits of Sunda, having once more launched into the Indian ocean. -The lofty peak, of Crokatoa, the mountainous island of Tamarind, -and the lesser islands of Thwart, the Way, the Button, and the Cap, -with part of the coast of Sumatra, were distinctly visible. Before -losing sight of Prince's island, the wind came from the southward and -eastward, accompanied with fine weather, which continued to waft us -rapidly over the rolling billows to the westward, till the sixteenth -of August, having run our westing down mostly between the latitude -of 10° 11´´ to secure strong breezes; being then in latitude about -2° south and 52´´ east longitude, the wind veered to the southwest, -but without any diminution of strength, or any alteration of the fine -weather we had previously enjoyed. It continued until the evening of -the twentieth, when we descried, first, the most easterly land on the -continent of Africa, cape Orfui, otherwise called, by the Arabs, Ras -Hafoon; then the mountains lying to the northward of this cape, called -Gebel Jordafoon; and then cape Guardafui, or the cape of burials; the -northeast extremity of Africa, and the southernmost cape of the gulf -of Arabia. The land appeared like the outline of a well-defined cloud, -high in the heavens. The next morning, we doubled close round this -bold promontory, which was so formidable in ancient times to the timid -Arabian mariner. - -[Sidenote: BURNT ISLAND.] - -"The shrill spirit of the storm sat not dim upon the bluff brow," "nor -enjoyed the death of the mariner," for the morning was bright, and -fair, and joyous. The loud roaring of the sea shamed not the thunder, -as it was wont to do, for it was almost unruffled. The tremendous sound -of the mysterious bell, which was wont to be heard high above the loud -surges of the ocean, warning the mariner of his fate, if he approached -too boldly, was hushed; and the bodiless hand, which was seen to give -it motion, had disappeared in the lapse of ages. We kept close to the -northern shore, as far as Metté, or Burnt island, to take the benefit -of a current setting to the westward. - -Being so near the land, we suffered severely from the hot, suffocating -air of this inhospitable region. Clothes were a burden, sleep fled -from us, and the slightest exertion was painful. The whole aspect of -the land was most dreary and most desolate. Mountains and plains of -sand, only, were presented to our view, looking "like drifted gold -in summer's cloudless beam." Not a tree, nor a shrub, nor scarcely a -blade of grass, to relieve the eye of the extreme aridity of this vast -wilderness. Here and there, at great intervals, were a few miserable -huts, in a gully, formed by the washing away of the sand; and the -great comfort derived from the "shadow of a high rock in a hot and -dreary land," would have been felt here as an inestimable blessing. -Now and then, a naked and poverty-stricken fisherman was seen stealing -along the shore, propelling, with his double-bladed paddle, a frail -catamaran, made of two or three sticks of wood, sitting to his waist -in water, having a rush sack to put his fish in, and liable to be made -the prey of the voracious blue shark, which abounds in these waters. He -was in search of what could not be found on the land, to wit, something -edible; something to nourish his own frail body, or satisfy the -cravings of a famishing wife, and a brood of naked, starving, helpless -children. - -We were a few days in accomplishing the short distance of two hundred -and forty miles, from the cape to Metté, and then shaped our course for -cape Aden in Arabia Felix, which we descried the following morning, -presenting a bold, broken outline. We continued coasting along the -shore till the twenty-ninth, when we spoke an East India company's -cruiser, the Nautilus, the same brig which the Peacock captured at the -termination of the late war with Great Britain. She had under convoy -four brigs from Mocha, bound to Surat. They were very much crowded with -_good_ mussulmans, from Mecca, who had been on a pilgrimage to the holy -city, and were purified of all their sins, past, present, and to come, -by the waters of the miraculous well of Zemzen, &c., and were now sure -of admission into the sensual paradise of the prophet. - -The triple and quadruple mountains of Yemen were distinctly visible, -and the sandy coast was interrupted at intervals by high land, till -we made the broken hill which forms the celebrated cape of Death, or -cape of Tears, Babel Mandeb, better known to the world as Babel Mandel. -The passage between this headland and the island of Perim, and Babel -Mandeb, is less than a mile and a half wide according to the chart of -Sir Home Popham. It is called by modern navigators the lesser Bab, or -Gate. - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL AT MOCHA.] - -Head winds and adverse currents obliged us to enter the Red sea through -the great channel formed between Perim and the group of islands, called -"Souamba," or the Eight Brothers, lying on the Abyssinian shore. We -therefore had on either hand Africa and Asia in full view, both -equally steril and lofty in the interior. Although the distance is but -forty miles to Mocha, from the straits, yet it occupied the remaining -two days of the month to effect it, owing to contrary currents and -winds. We anchored in five fathoms water, at the distance of two miles -from the shore; immediately on anchoring, a lieutenant (Brent) was sent -on shore to the dowlah or governor, to say that a salute of fifteen -guns should be given, if an equal number were returned; this was -promptly complied with. We found Mocha in possession of a Turkish rebel -chieftain, Turkie ben al Mas by name, who it seems has held it for the -last seven months; he was an officer in the service of Mehemet Ali the -celebrated pacha of Egypt, and being discontented with his situation -he thought it best to carve out for himself, with the assistance of -his sword, a little good fortune, in the shape of a governor over a -few cities; he collected together a number of followers, soldiers of -fortune, who are always to be found in Egypt, as well as in Turkey and -elsewhere, ready to draw the sword for those who will pay the best and -make the largest promises. These troops consisted of Turks, Copts or -Egyptians, Bedouin and other Arabs, and Abyssinians. It seems on his -march from Grand Cairo, where the expedition was planned, he conquered -the principal places, lying on the Arabian side of the Red sea; meeting -with some opposition at Judda alias Djidda, the port of disembarkation -for pilgrims going to the holy city of Mecca, it was plundered and -many of the inhabitants were slain. Here he found seven large East -India built ships, armed and equipped, belonging to his late master; -of these, he took forcible possession, putting on board some troops, -and ordering them to Mocha to co-operate with his army which proceeded -by land. He marched on with about three thousand men, capturing on his -way Hodeida, Loheia, &c., till he came to Zebid, better known as Waled -Zebid: here he met with considerable opposition, but finally it was -obliged to submit to the "strong arm." Exasperated at the resistance -made by the dowlah, he ordered him to be put to the most cruel -death--such a one as could only enter into the imagination of a fiend -of darkness. A copper cap was made, heated red hot, then fitted to his -head, and his brains were literally fried out, he dying in the most -excruciating tortures. This place (Mocha) capitulated after some slight -skirmishing, on condition that the dowlah and the garrison should be -suffered to depart unmolested, with their arms, accoutrements and -baggage, to the interior; this was faithfully complied with as it -regarded the troops; they were suffered to depart without molestation -to the mountains of Yemen. The dowlah was promised every indulgence, -and the conqueror apparently took a deep interest in his welfare. He -was asked, with great seeming kindness, if he had a family, wives -and children, in the interior, and if he did not wish to see them -speedily. He answered in the affirmative, and expressed himself in very -forcible and affectionate terms--such as may be supposed to emanate -from a man of ardent temperament, and one whose feelings are centred -in the bosom of his family. He was informed that all his fears should -be speedily hushed, that he should depart for the mountains, and be -allowed a body-guard for his protection. On the second night after -their departure, as they drew near the first rise of mountains, and -within sight of the hills which overlooked the home of his children, -anticipating the delightful pleasure of once more beholding and -embracing them, as he was resting on the ground and partaking an humble -meal, he was most treacherously and cruelly shot, in two places, -through the back, and there left to be a prey for the eagle and jackall -of the mountains; while his poor and fatherless children were daily and -hourly looking from their tent-doors into the valleys, wondering why -he tarried so long, and complaining of his tardiness; but, alas, their -eyes were never destined to behold him more. - -[Sidenote: VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR.] - -By a particular invitation, we visited the conqueror. We landed at a -stone-pier, and shortly passed through one of the city-gates. After -winding through extremely narrow and crooked streets, which were as -hot as the blast from a "baker's oven," we arrived at a building -dignified with the name of "the palace," fronting an open space of -ground on one side, and on another, overlooking the harbour. There -were, lounging about the grand entrance, a goodly number of his -cut-throats, whose trade and pastime are blood, armed to the teeth, -and ready for service. We were conducted through long dark passages, -up a precipitous staircase, wide enough only for one person to advance -at a time. Landing places were frequent, and heavy doors at each, so -as to cut off all communication: wherever a soldier could be placed -on the narrow landings or passages, either above or below, there was -no space left empty. In passing through the entrance, up this narrow -stairway, the scene of so much bloodshed at different times, we were -strongly impressed with the idea, that the lumps of dirt and the spots -on the walls, were the blood and brains of many a victim; and however -erroneous the opinion might be, we imagined every thing about the -palace smelt of blood, as though it were the shambles of wretched human -beings. - -We passed through the anteroom, filled with his body guard, and -found him reclining on a raised settee, covered with Turkey carpets. -Captain G. and myself were requested to take seats on each side of -him--he placing himself in the corner of the settee, probably as a -precautionary means against treachery. He was a stout, noble looking -man, having a bushy black beard and mustaches; his aspect was by no -means ferocious. He was rather plainly dressed, in dark striped silk, -and wore the red cloth cap. - -He treated us with great affability and kindness, expressed himself -highly gratified at the sight of two American men-of-war, (being the -first, as we understood, that had ever entered the port.) He offered -every assistance in his power, and sent to the ship a present of some -bullocks, sheep, and vegetables. Our conversation related principally -to the difference in charges paid on English and American vessels. It -seems the English vessels pay a duty of two and a quarter per cent., -without any other charges, while the Americans pay three per cent. -Anchorage money, which was one hundred and eighty, has been increased -as high as three hundred and fifty dollars on the largest vessels, -although it has been lessened lately to two hundred and fifty: the -harbour-master, also, is paid twenty-three dollars: there are, besides, -some smaller impositions. He promised to do all that lay in his power, -to equalize the charges on English and American vessels; but said -that the government was in a very unsettled state at present; that he -had sent despatches to the sultan of Stamboul, alias, Constantinople, -announcing the conquest of this and other places in his name, and that -he was now awaiting his orders, &c. - -The wide anteroom-doors being open, the guard was within a few feet of -us, and heard all our conversation. They were principally Turks: some -wore the turban, and others the red military cap. They were heavily -armed about the waist, with two pair of horse-pistols, a cimeter, and -perhaps with one or two daggers; the handles of all being fancifully -inlaid with silver. Their complexions were generally of a light olive, -with black eyes and long beards. Some were quite white, having small -very light blue eyes. They were fine looking men, possessing stout -muscular frames. The sleeves of many were tucked up to the shoulder, -showing a very brawny arm. They stood in a respectful attitude, but -not cringing, like a Siamese or Cochin-Chinese, in the presence of a -superior. They were indolent in their appearance, yet the ferocity -of the tiger lurked in their countenances. A sign or a nod; a word, -or even a wink, was sufficient for these blood-hounds to lay us dead -at their master's feet. But such fears were far from us, or that the -delicious coffee of Yemen, which we were sipping, was imbued with -poison. - -Part of his fine stud of Arabian horses were handsomely caparisoned -and brought to the door, for us to ride through the town and into the -suburbs, to see the extensive villages of the Arabs, Sommanlis, or -Abyssinians. The village, occupied formerly by the Jews, was deserted; -what had become of them, we could not learn. Two slaves were placed at -the stirrup of each horse to accompany the party: for the most part of -the way they kept pace with the riders. These villages are situated, -generally, in the midst of extensive date-groves. The houses of the -Sommanlis have neat conical roofs, made of date-leaves, or coarse -rushes, and the sides are of the same material, or of mats. They have -woolly hair mostly, extremely black skins, but prominent noses, limbs -well formed, fine teeth, and rather pleasant countenances: they are as -straight built as the young areca. - -There is a strange fashion prevailing among the fops of this village; -that of changing the colour of their wool to a light brown or yellow; -but as the colouring of gray hair, among a more civilized people, is by -no means uncommon, they are not, therefore, altogether singular. These -fops had no other covering to boast of than a waist-cloth. - -[Sidenote: MOCHA--BEGGARS.] - -The lofty mountains of Yemen afford great relief to the inland -prospect; but in the immediate vicinity of Mocha, there is only an -extensive date-grove; elsewhere every thing is desolate and steril: -the eye wanders in vain for an oasis, for some green spot, and sees -only tufts of coarse brown grass, and a plain of sand. The town has a -very neat and substantial appearance from the roadstead, presenting to -the view a compact mass of white buildings, mosques, minarets, and -castles, breaking only the uniformity of the scene. They are lofty, so -as to catch every breeze which passes over the walls--are flat-roofed, -and the inhabitants sleep on them in consequence of the excessive -heat. They are protected, in part, against the baneful effects arising -from heavy dews, and from the power of the moon, by a light leaf roof; -are clumsily built, mostly of brick baked in the sun; and there is no -appearance that a level was ever used. The floors are undulating, like -the waves of the sea. Crooked, dark, and narrow passages, and steep -staircases, with strong doors at every landing, ready to be barricaded -in case of an insurrection, or an enemy making his appearance, are -common in every house: in fact, every dwelling is a strong castle. On -entering within the city walls, all idea of comfort instantly vanishes; -dirty, intricate streets are every where lumbered with the rubbish -from ruined buildings; turbaned heads, the red military cap, and loose -floating garments, are seen at every step, all being heavily armed -about the waist, "ready to do battle;" women, with closely veiled -faces; porters, sweating most profusely, under heavy loads of luscious -dates, oozing through the meshes of the slight mat covering; strings -of camels, laden with coffee, &c., from Yemen, lying in the streets, -munching their allotted portion of hard brown beans, or bearing about -skins of water for sale; asses, without number, laden variously; -small droves of miserable cattle, or rather frames set up ready for -filling out, if sufficient encouragement should be given to effect -it. Abyssinian sheep, covered with hair instead of wool, having broad -tails, hanging nearly to the ground: they are mostly black-headed, -affording delicious mutton: goats, every where, grown fat even upon the -coarsest rushes, and the twigs and leaves of the common thorn. But the -most distressing sight is that of the poor, blind, diseased, and lame -beggars, which meet you every where, in the streets and in the bazars, -at the mosque-doors and at the doors of the palace, in the suburbs -and at the gates of the city, begging most earnestly for the smallest -pittance, for even one or two commassées, (a small copper coin, being -three hundred and eighty to the dollar,) or a few cowries. Some of them -were mere walking skeletons; their frames being covered with shrivelled -brown parchment, stretched over what resembled bunches of dried catgut, -being the muscular parts of the body. They had deep sunken cheeks, -hollow to the bones, and sharp noses; the nostrils being so nipped -in as to present only the mark of an orifice, like an old closed and -deep-cut wound, badly united: not a particle of flesh was on their -legs, arms, or their collapsed bodies. Some could walk, but how it was -effected, in their extremely emaciated condition, was a mystery of -wonder; the slightest breath of wind would almost overpower them; and I -was, several times, upon the eve of holding out my hands to save these -shadows from being dashed to the ground. Death stared them in the face, -and only suffered them to remain in misery a few moments longer, that -they might complete, perhaps, their allotted task of penance, for the -vile deeds done in the body. - -We passed through extensive covered bazars, which appeared to be well -supplied with goods. The size of some of the shops, or rather closets, -was extremely small, the vender sitting with his legs under him, having -every thing within reach of his hands. There was but little fruit and -vegetables for sale, but fish and fowls, goats, sheep, and bullocks, -in abundance; plenty of dates; some highly-flavoured, but extremely -small oblong grapes; raisins, without seed; and ordinary pomegranates. -Occasionally, there may be had water-melons, sweet potatoes, onions, a -superior kind of sorrel, and some long gourds. - -About the coffee-houses, (or rather sheds,) were seen, in groups, -soldiers, smoking their chebouks, and sipping their small cups -(resembling egg-cups) of coffee, made from the husk of the berry, -without the addition of sugar or milk. They were generally reclining on -rough-made settees, covered with the strong leaf of the date-palm. They -were of all shades, from the deep black to the brown Bedouin, and to -the unadulterated white from Georgia and the Caucasian mountains. They -were, with scarcely an exception, men of noble features: their dresses -were as various as the nations they came from. They pay only three or -four commassées for their refreshments. This small coin, and cowries, -are the only currency used in the bazars for small transactions; but -Spanish dollars and German crowns are almost wholly used in larger -ones; and Persian rupees, and those of Bombay and Surat, and foreign -gold, are no strangers. During the time I was examining this motley -group of strange beings, the hour of evening prayer drew nigh. As the -sun disappeared behind the mountains of Abyssinia, a loud cry was -heard--"Hark!" cried many voices:-- - - "Hark, from the mosque, the nightly solemn sound, - The Muezzin's call doth shake the minaret; - 'There is no God but God: to prayer--lo! God is great.'" - -Each one then spread his garment, or a mat, upon the ground, and -instantly the assembled multitude of Mussulmans were on their knees, -facing to the north towards Mecca, and praying to Allah with low -prostrations, and every outward demonstration of intense devotion. It -was a pleasing sight even to a "Giaour," to one who never doubted the -founder of their religion was not the "true prophet;" but still, it -must be acknowledged, he was of infinite service in turning millions -from gross idolatry, to the worship of "one true and ever-living God." - -[Sidenote: EXPORTS FROM MOCHA.] - -The export of coffee from this place, annually, is about eight thousand -bales, of three hundred and five pounds each; and the price, at -present, is said to be from twenty-nine to thirty-two dollars per bale; -but we paid at the rate of thirty-six dollars for some bales of the -very first quality. A small part of this goes to the Persian gulf, to -Surat, and Bombay, probably making, altogether, one half; the remainder -is taken by the Americans. From the other ports in the Red sea, as high -up as Djedda, (Judda,) it is carried to El Coseir, or Kooseir, Suez, -&c.; and so on to Egypt, Turkey, &c. Gum Arabic, myrrh, frankincense, -dates, and a few smaller articles, may be added to the list of exports. -The difficulty of egress, during the northeast monsoon, the wind and -current adverse and very strong, which commences about the latter -part of September, is a great obstacle in trading to this port. If it -was possible to direct the trade to Aden, situated a hundred miles to -the eastward of cape Babel Mandeb, which is furnished with two good -harbours, this very serious obstacle would be obviated. In no part of -the world have I seen fish in greater abundance; they go in immense -shoals, and appear, to an inexperienced eye, like low breakers over -spits of sand, or a barred harbour. Birds are, in great numbers, -hovering over them, waiting with impatience for their portion of food. -Rock-weed is seen floating down the Red sea in great quantities. The -only boat used for fishing, is the catamaran, similar to those already -described. The stationary number of inhabitants in the city, is said -not to exceed five thousand; but, at present, there are probably about -ten thousand, in addition, including the soldiers, women and children, -and other followers of the army. In the environs of the city, are seen -thousands of miserable beings, lying on mats or on the sand, having a -slight tent made of the date-leaf, a mat or two, or some rags tacked -together, possessing little or no covering for the body, and apparently -scarcely any thing on which to feed it, to prevent the immortal part -from deserting the mortal. - -I observed, in several houses, the "transparent stone," which is placed -over the tops of the latticed windows; there was as much light shed -through it as through ground glass. - -The colour of the Red sea has long given occasion to a variety of -conjectures and speculations. Doctor Ehrenberg discovered that it was -owing to small animalcules, which he names, "oscillatoria," which hold -a rank midway between plants and animals. This colour may hold good, as -it regards the more northern part of the sea, but at Mocha it is of a -light sea-green. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - DEPARTURE FROM THE RED SEA--CAPE ROSSELGATE--ARRIVAL AT - MUSCAT--BLIND BEGGARS--FIN BACK WHALES--BEDOUIN ARABS--PEARL - ISLANDERS--ARAB ROBBERS--CURRENCY OF MUSCAT--NAVAL FORCE OF MUSCAT. - - -We remained in Mocha roads only two days, and then sailed, on the -evening of the first of September, for Muscat. Owing to light winds, we -did not pass the "Lesser Bab," or the narrow straits of Babel Mandel, -till three o'clock in the morning of the third, having drifted through -them by the help of the current, in a night resplendently beautiful, -and "in silence" passed we "through the Gate of Tears." - -[Sidenote: MUSCAT.] - -[Sidenote: SLAVE-BAZARS--BARBERS.] - -Nothing remarkable occurred on our passage through the gulf and sea -of Arabia, till the thirteenth, when we made Ras el Had, or cape -Rosselgate, being the extreme northeastern limit of Arabia, having -had the winds, during the passage, very light, from the southward and -westward. Ras el Had is a low sandy point. A range of high mountains -form the background of the landscape, which have an altitude of -nearly seven thousand feet; this is a link in a chain of mountains, -which extend as far as the Devil's Gap and Kuriat, and are known by -the name of Jeebel Huthera, or the Green mountains. Off the cape, -were a great number of small boats fishing, principally with spears -and grains; the harpooner standing in the bow, who, immediately on -striking a fish, sprung into the water, more effectually to secure -his prey. Sharks appeared to be their object, which are dried and -shipped to various places; and the fins reserved solely for the China -market. The surface of the water was red with myriads of crabs, which -were sent forth by the _Great Provider_ of all things, to sustain the -larger fish. The day previous to our arrival, as we lay at anchor, a -few miles from Muscat, a boat was despatched, under the command of -Acting-Lieutenant Brent, to the sultan, to inform him of our arrival, -and the object of the visit. The boat returned laden with abundance of -exquisite _grapes_, of four different kinds, and ripe _dates_, just -plucked from the trees, and strung together like large golden beads, -refreshing to the taste, and by no means too luscious or cloying to -the appetite. There were other fruits also sent, such as the season -afforded, with a number of goats and sheep, being presents from the -sultan; bringing also complimentary messages, and congratulating us -on our safe arrival, and expressing himself highly flattered, that, -at length, United States' ships-of-war should, for the first time, -visit his ports, and more especially for the object of the mission. -On the evening of the eighteenth, we anchored in Muscat cove, in -company with the Boxer. The winds from the cape, were very light, from -between southwest and southeast; and the current constantly against -us, setting out of the Persian gulf. The coast appeared to be nearly -as steril as that of Abyssinia or Somauli, being mountainous, barren, -rocky, and sandy; but villages were much oftener to be seen, and -frequently of a large size, in the midst of groves of the date-palm. -Boats also were in great numbers, and well built, instead of the frail -catamaran; they were provided with cotton sails, and the owners were, -apparently, better fed than those about the Red sea, and wore most -venerable long beards, quite outstripping any of the goat family. -The waters were teeming with food--fish were in greater abundance, -if it be possible, than about Mocha. In the morning, an interchange -of salutes took place. The harbour, or rather cove of Muscat, is -extremely limited in its dimensions; it does not exceed three fourths -of a mile in depth, from its entrance at the small islet, called the -Fishers' Rock, lying off the northern part of the Muscat island, and -its width, between the fort on the island, and another fort on the -main, on the western shore, is scarcely one half its depth. It is open -to the north, and during the prevalence of northerly and westerly -gales, in the winter, a heavy sea is thrown in. The cove is bounded -by very precipitous black rocks, running up to the height of three or -four hundred feet, being much jagged or serrated; and on the higher -parts are perched small circular towers, which are said to have been -placed there by the Portuguese, in the "olden-time," when they held -possession of the place. They are, apparently, inaccessible to every -thing, but hawks, gulls, and sea-swallows, which abound in its caverns -and fissures. No place (excepting always a plain of sand) presents a -more forbidding aspect than this; not a green thing is to be seen, -whether tree, shrub, or plant, from the roadstead. The town and its -two castles, which crown the tops of very high rocks, to the east and -to the north, and which are evidently intended as much to overawe and -defend the town, as the harbour, together with the two forts and its -towers, are the only objects (if I may except a few white stone houses) -which at all relieve the dreary prospect. Unless the wind blows from -the northward, or a strong breeze from the southward and eastward, -through the narrow gap, which separates Muscat island from the main -land, the heat is excessive, for there is not the slightest degree of -elasticity in the air; and the heated rocks are never cooled during -three fourths of the year, and the sun seems to dart forth its rays -with great malignity. During our stay, the night wind occasionally blew -from the land, and then the heat was almost insupportable; every one -complained of its suffocating effects, the perspiration poured from -the body like rain, and the strength was at once prostrate. The town -lies at the bottom of the cove, at the only level spot to be seen, -between very high ridges of rocks in the southwestern quarter. It is -walled, excepting the part fronting the harbour, having round towers -at the principal angles. With the exception of the sultan's palace, -whose walls are bathed on the harbour side by "Oman's green waters," -and on another side by the bazar, a narrow, dark covered street, and a -few other decent looking houses, miserably built of stone, and coated -with chunam, the larger portion are small, dark, and filthy, made of -palm-branches only, or at best covered with mats, or coated with mud, -so that the periodical rains frequently demolish a considerable portion -of the city, and they are then seen floating in fragments through the -streets, which are converted into so many canals, by the torrents of -water which descend from the circumjacent mountains. A mat laid on -the bare earth, is the bed of the occupants, and their hands pillow -their heads; an earthen pot is their only cooking utensil, and dried -camel's dung and palm-branches their fuel. Dates and fish, in scanty -quantities, twice a day, form generally their meals; and when they -are so fortunate as to obtain a few ounces of goat-meat, it is cut -into small pieces, and roasted on wooden skewers. The inhabitants are -indolent, and those who are neither sailors nor soldiers, mechanics -nor merchants, are miserably poor. Beggars are every where, and it is -even a more remarkable place for blind people than Mocha; they are -seen in groups at the corners of the streets, crying out in the most -piteous manner, for the love of Allah, the holy prophet, and all the -santons, to give them something to relieve their wretched condition. -The lanes, or rather slits, between the buildings, are very irregular, -encumbered with filth and rubbish; and the houses are similar in -construction to those of Mocha. The city, within the walls, is reported -to contain about twelve thousand inhabitants, and as every foot of -ground is covered with buildings, (there being neither gardens nor open -squares,) I suppose this number not to be exaggerated, notwithstanding -the circumference of the walls does not exceed a mile. The larger -part of the inhabitants are Arabs; the remainder are from various -parts of Hindostan, Persians, Scindians, Abyssinians, and negro slaves -from the coast of Zanzibar; all reposing in safety under the mild -and equitable government of a very worthy prince. The population of -the suburbs is estimated at five thousand. Here may be seen weavers -manufacturing fine check cloth, with red and yellow silk ends, which -form the turbans, universally worn by all who are born within the -kingdom of Aman, whether the sultan or the subject. The weavers dig a -hole in the ground, for their feet, and form a seat a step higher, to -sit on; they use a very primitive loom, and the web is extended but a -few inches above the ground, a light date-leaf shed serving to protect -them against the rays of the sun. A few blacksmiths, coppersmiths, -ropemakers, carpenters, and sandal-makers, are almost the only trades -that are carried on to any extent. The mechanic arts are conducted -in the streets, under open sheds. The bellows of the smiths are of a -very primitive construction; two skins are so arranged, that while one -is filling with air, they blow with the other; with a hand placed on -each, they are alternately depressed and filled. A hole in the ground -serves for a fireplace, and another for water; a stone serves for an -anvil, and with clumsy hammers, and sitting on their hams, they carry -on, in a very slow manner, their imperfect trade. The slave-bazar -is near the landing-place, and a sale is made every evening towards -sunset; the slaves are well oiled, to show a smooth skin, and they are -decently dressed; the males with a waistcloth, and the females have, -in addition, a breastcloth. The auctioneer parades them through the -streets on the day of sale, and, if a higher price is not offered at -_public_ sale, than was bid privately, they are then delivered to -the highest private bidder. Goods are hawked out about the streets -in the same way; to wit, Cashmere shawls, swords, spears, rhinoceros -shields, &c., &c. The slave-bazar is a great resort for Arab dandies; -decorated with fine sabres and silver-hilted crooked daggers, which -are worn in the shawls which encircle their waists; their long beards -well perfumed, and their turbans arranged according to the prevailing -fashion, they examine females as well as males, with little regard to -delicacy, or even to common decency. In passing through the streets, -we constantly met Arab, Abyssinian, and negro women with masks, having -in them oblong eye-holes; they were made of black cloth or silk, some -being bound with gold lace; their dress a black, blue, or dark robe, -with trousers of the same, or else made of cross-barred silk. Very -few of them turned their faces to the wall when we passed, but they -stopped and took a full view of us. Hindoo barbers carry on their trade -generally in the street. After having shaved the head, a part of the -face, and over the _eyelids_, extracted the hairs from the nose and -ears, trimmed the mustaches, and perfumed the beard with sweet-scented -Arab oil, they conclude by cutting the finger and toe nails; the whole -being done with an air of much gravity and importance. It is said they -have the same characteristic marks here, that they do in many other -parts of the world; being great tattlers, newsmongers, politicians, -and story-tellers. The Arabs stain their feet black or red, nearly to -the ankles; and the hands and nails of the fingers and feet with red -henna, as well as a narrow black stripe along the outer edge of one or -both eyelashes, with antimony, to give a more pleasing expression, and -sparkling effect to the eye. - -Small fish being very abundant about the ship, the fishermen came in -great numbers to throw their nets. They are of a circular form, and -probably fifteen feet in diameter, loaded with small weights at the -extremities, having a line fastened to the centre to draw it up; when -thrown in it sinks gradually, the weights being light; when it has sunk -to the depth of eight or ten feet, two divers jump overboard to drive -the fish within the net; when they wish to draw it up, the weights -close the bottom, and so secure all that are within its meshes. - -Several divers were employed to find a sword which by an accident was -lost overboard in eight fathoms, where the ship was anchored; two of -them went down several times, and the greatest length of time either -remained under water, was _two_ minutes and _five_ seconds. The ship's -bottom being very foul, two large gangs of divers were employed to -cleanse it, which was thoroughly effected with scrapers and rubbers -in the course of four hours, taking off oysters of the size nearly of -the palm of the hand, and barnacles also of a very large size; this -was done at an expense of twenty-five dollars. It had a very ludicrous -effect to see so many venerable long beards, white, grizzled and black, -thus employed, and constantly popping their bare heads and dripping -beards out of the water. - -[Sidenote: MUSCAT TOM--BEDOUIN ARABS.] - -We were many times in the day amused to see two very large fin-back -whales fishing alongside, and under the bows and stern of the ship. -The male has been a daily visiter in this harbour for upward of twenty -years, and goes by the name of "Muscat Tom." Formerly the cove was much -infested with sharks, so that no person would venture into the water; -but after he took possession, it was freed entirely of these pests, -these sea-manduleens, (mandarins,) as the Chinese fishermen call them, -in derision of the all-grasping _land mandarins_. A few years since he -was missing for many days; the sharks ascertained by some means that he -was "not at home" to pay _particular_ attention to his _visiters_ and -invite them _in_; they therefore intruded upon his quarters, and not -only banqueted upon his larder, which was filled with a great variety -of fine fish, but actually invited and _sore pressed_ some of the land -bipeds to _follow_ them; as they are equally as well pleased with flesh -as with fish, the consequence was, the _natives_ refused to join any -other _jamb_ or _crush_ of the usurpers, and took a great dislike to -_aquatic parties_. Happily at length, bold Tom returned, and every -thing was restored to its proper order; for he had been like "Celebs -in search of a wife;" and if he did not bring her home under his arm, -he brought her under his fin, and "she was a helpmeet unto him;" and -together they made a clear _sweep_ of all the pests and incumbrances of -their household, to the great joy of the land-animals, who again paid -them frequent visits. - -They have never been known _wilfully_ to injure them; but occasionally -when they were in full chase after a _school_ of _small fry_ who were -playing truant within their submarine garden, they would unluckily -upset the water carriage of their neighbours; however, as no offence -was intended, an apology was deemed wholly unnecessary, and the natives -acted a very wise part by not showing a useless resentment to their -benefactors. Hourly the happy pair may be seen moving along very -lovingly together "cheek by jowl," occasionally sinking to the bottom, -but not in search, as some may foolishly imagine, for---- - - "Wedges of gold, great anchors, heaps of pearl, - Inestimable stones, unvalued jewels, - All scattered in the bottom of the sea, - Some lying in dead men's sculls; and in those holes - Where eyes did once inhabit, there were crept - As 'twere in scorn of eyes:"-- - -but after something more useful; they are now seen rising with -great swiftness perpendicularly half their length out of water, and -with wide expanded jaws, catching all that comes within the vortex, -filling the enormous sacks under their throats full to overflowing; -and "thereby suck they _in_ no small advantage." Whenever the water -is too shallow to rise in this manner, they dash forward with the -rapidity of lightning, making a great breach; their ponderous body -being thrown frequently entirely out of water. Many fishermen follow -them to catch the fish they kill, but do not swallow; and by these -means obtain during the day a great number. Muscat Tom and his wife -are never known to sleep in the harbour, having sufficient sagacity to -know, that they might be cast on shore by the current, and so caught -_napping_. I observed that the same silly custom prevails here with -the fishermen, as in many parts of the United States and elsewhere, by -spitting on their bait to _insure good luck_. During our stay about two -thousand Bedwin (Bedouin) Arabs arrived by order of the sultan; they -were to be embarked on board the ships-of-war at the commencement of -the northeast monsoon for Mombas, and other parts in Africa; they are a -little darker coloured than the Arabs of Mocha, slender built, of good -open countenances, and with fine sparkling eyes: the hair dressed in -small-sized spiral curls, and profusely oiled, wearing a bandage around -the head to confine it. They had no covering to the head, were naked -excepting the waist, and were generally armed with spears. - -There are a great number of small villages within a small distance -of Muscat, wherever a tolerably level spot can be found between the -precipitous rocks. The principal one of six, lying around the shore -of Muttrah harbour, is the walled town of Muttrah, which is said -to contain about eight thousand inhabitants, including a colony of -Belooches, or Scindians, from the banks of the renowned Indus. They -occupy a walled town within the walls of Muttrah, having sentries -constantly posted at their only gate, which fronts the beach. The -principal business transacted at Muttrah, is building and repairing -of vessels. The poorer inhabitants of all these towns are very filthy -and nearly naked, and not abundantly supplied with food, even of the -meanest kind. They are very civil in their demeanour; but by no means -deficient in curiosity. It is about two miles from Muscat to Muttrah. -The passes between the rocks being very narrow, and exceedingly -difficult, and the heat overpowering, the communication is kept up by -means of canoes, neatly painted, having a temporary date-leaf roof, -and a mat to sit on. Large droves of camels and dromedaries, from the -interior, arrive daily, laden with wheat, dates, grapes, &c. - -All religions, within the sultan's dominions, are not merely tolerated, -but they are protected by his highness; and there is no obstacle -whatever to prevent the Christian, the Jew, or the Gentile, from -preaching their peculiar doctrines, or erecting temples. The principal -part of his subjects are of the sect of the Mahometans, called the -Bee-asis: they profess to abstain from the use of tobacco, spirits, -and all fermented liquors, and from every description of pomp and -magnificence, in their dress, their houses, or their mosques. (The -latter are very ordinary buildings, being destitute of all ornaments, -and without minarets.) They do not grant pre-eminence to the -descendants of Mahomet, but maintain that all who are Mussulmans by -birth, are eligible for any employment in church or state. I was of the -opinion, until I became better acquainted with these people, that they -were more strict than the other sects, both in precept and practice; -but their religious prejudices are broken down, the form only is left; -and away from Muscat, or those who are not in the immediate employ of -the sultan, and are therefore not in daily attendance upon his person, -they use tobacco, as well as all intoxicating liquors, freely. This -is frankly acknowledged by the sultan's own officers. Several small -craft arrived from the Bahrein islands, bringing a deputation from -the principal ruler, requesting assistance and protection against -the Wahabees or Joassames, who had again collected a large army, and -threatened to take possession of their islands. It was said, they were -in arrears for three or four years' tribute-money, which they were -first commanded to pay. A compromise was attempted by the deputies; but -it was not settled when we left there. The vessels wore a striped flag, -either of red and green or red and white. - -[Sidenote: HORSES--FRUITS--VEGETABLES.] - -The sultan possesses a very fine stud of Arab horses. I saw, at -different times, about two hundred. He is the owner, as I was informed -by the colonel, or commander of the Bedwin cavalry, of all the horses -in Muscat, or the neighbouring towns. He was very desirous of sending -to the President of the United States, two stallions and two mares -of the best blood; but it was declined, because the ship was not of -sufficient size to carry them, comfortably and safely, through the -tempestuous weather usually encountered from the entrance of the -Mozambique channel to the cape of Good Hope. The sultan's horses are -fed upon lucerne and dates; and it is said that most of the cattle, -sheep, and goats, are fed upon dates and fish. The coarsest kind of -grass, and rushes even, are difficult to be obtained at any price, and -all the lucerne belongs to the sultan. - -We found the mutton here very excellent, the sheep costing two dollars, -and goats at various prices: fowls from one dollar to two and a half -per dozen: bullocks, very fat and very palatable, at ten dollars -each. But there were no hogs, turkeys, geese, or ducks. Fish was very -abundant and cheap, and generally good flavoured. Both white and purple -grapes were supplied us daily, and in profusion, by the sultan. The -pomegranates were much superior to any I have ever seen. There were -but few mangoes, the season for them having passed. The oranges were -insipid, and tasted like the sweet lemon. Limes were very plentiful. -The muskmelons gave out a fine perfume, but they were very tasteless. -The dates, when not too ripe, had the flavour of a very sweet green -chestnut. Pistachios, almonds, raisins, and kismisses, (or seedless -raisins,) were plenty. Of vegetables, there were the long purple -egg-plant, potatoes, onions, okra, and parsley. The date molasses was -very good; wheat sold for one dollar and a quarter for one hundred -English pounds; and a French brig was lading with it and jacks, for the -Mauritius. The water, which supplies the shipping and the principal -part of the inhabitants, is drawn from a very deep well outside the -walls of Muscat, by a buffalo, up an inclined plane, and then brought -in skins, on men's backs, to the landing. - -The sole object of our visit to Muscat, was to effect a commercial -treaty with his highness, Syed Syeed bin Sultan, and to obtain a -reduction of the duties and port-charges, heretofore paid on our -commerce, so as to place it upon a footing with the most favoured -nations. The sultan appointed an audience in the afternoon of the day -subsequent to our arrival. I landed, in company with Captain Geisinger -and Lieutenant-Commandant Shields, of the Boxer. We found the sultan, -with his eldest son the governor of Burha, and ten gentlemen, composing -his divan or council, sitting in the veranda, facing the harbour. -The governor and the counsellors were sitting on chairs facing each -other, and the sultan was seated about ten or twelve feet from them -in a corner. He immediately arose, on our entrance, and walked to -the edge of the raised floor, between the courtiers, and received -us very graciously, shaking us by the hand. Here was to be seen no -abasing crawling, and couching, and "knocking head," like a parcel of -slaves; but all was manly, and every one stood on his feet. The usual -congratulatory compliments and inquiries were made; and coffee and -sherbet were introduced. I was seated near to, and on the right hand of -his highness; and we entered into a private conversation, through the -interpreter, Captain Calfaun, relative to the object of the mission, -(after having presented my credentials.) The sultan at once acceded to -my wishes, by admitting our commerce into his ports upon the same terms -of his most favoured friends, the British, to wit: by paying a duty of -five per cent. on the cargo _landed_, and free from every other charge -whatever, either on imports or exports, or even the charge of pilotage. -When the fifth article of the proposed treaty was read, which related -to shipwrecked seamen, he at once objected to that part of it relating -to a remuneration for expenses, which would be necessarily incurred -in supporting and forwarding them to the United States, and said, -the article he wished so altered as to make it incumbent upon him to -protect, maintain, and return them to their own country, free of every -charge. He remarked, that it would be contrary to the usage of Arabs, -and to the rights of hospitality, which have ever been practised among -them; and this clause was also inserted, at his request. The sultan -is of a mild and peaceable demeanour, of unquestionable bravery, as -was evinced during the Wahabee war, where he was severely wounded in -endeavouring to save an English artilleryman. He is a strict lover of -justice, possessing a humane disposition, and greatly beloved by his -subjects. He possesses just and liberal views in regard to commerce, -not only throwing no obstacles in the way to impede its advancement, -but encouraging foreigners as well as his own subjects. - -[Sidenote: SULTAN OF MUSCAT.] - -The sultan of Muscat is a very powerful prince; he possesses a more -efficient naval force than all the native princes combined from the -cape of Good Hope to Japan. His resources are more than adequate to his -wants: they are derived from commerce, owning himself a great number -of merchant vessels: from duties on foreign merchandise, and from -tribute-money, and presents received from various princes, all of which -produce a large sum: a small tithe also is taken on wheat and dates, -but more on houses or lands. - -His possessions in Africa, stretch from cape Delgado to cape Guardafui: -and from cape Aden in Arabia, to Ras el Haud, and from Ras el Haud they -extend along the northern coast of Arabia, (or the coast Aman) to the -entrance of the Persian gulf: and he claims also all the seacoast and -islands _within_ the Persian gulf, including the Bahrein islands, and -pearl-fishery contiguous to them, with the northern part of the gulf as -low down as Seindy. It is true that only a small part of this immense -territory is garrisoned by his troops, but all is tributary to him. - -In Africa, he owns the ports of Monghow, or Mongallow, Lyndy, Quiloa, -(Keelwah,) Melinda, Lamo, Patta, Brava, Magadosha, (alias Magadshe,) -and the valuable islands of Monfeea or Mafeea, Zanzibar, Pemba, -Socotra, alias Socotera, &c., &c. - -From Africa are exported, gum-copal, aloes, gum-arabic, columbo-root, -and a great variety of other drugs. Ivory, tortoise-shell, rhinoceros -horns, hides, beeswax, cocoa-nut oil, rice, millett, ghee, &c. - -The exports from Muscat are wheat, dates, horses, raisins, salt, dried -fish, and a great variety of drugs, &c., &c. Muscat, being the key to -the Persian gulf is a place of great resort in the winter months, for -vessels from the Persian gulf and the western parts of India. - -The productions of Africa, of the Red sea, the coast of Arabia, and the -countries bordering on the Persian gulf, may be had there. - -Their vessels trade not only to the countries named, but also to -Guzzerat, Surat, Demaun, Bombay, Bay of Bengal, Ceylon, Sumatra, Java, -the Mauritius, the Comoro islands, to Madagascar, and the Portuguese -possessions in East Africa; bringing Indian, African, and European -articles. - -[Sidenote: NAVAL FORCE OF MUSCAT.] - -The number of vessels employed on these voyages I was unable to -ascertain with any degree of exactness: but no number named was less -than two thousand; of this a very large proportion are small craft, -having but a few ships and brigs. The naval force of the sultan is very -respectable in point of numbers, and they are daily becoming better -_ship_ sailors. - -The officers practise the lunar observations, and possess excellent -chronometers. His force is sufficient to give him entire control over -all the ports in East Africa, the Red sea, the coast of Abyssinia, and -the Persian gulf. He has an abundance of sailors and although he has -but a small number of regular troops, yet he can command any number of -Bedouin (Bedwin) Arabs he may want, by furnishing them with provisions -and clothing. This force consists of between seventy and eighty sail -of vessels, carrying from four to seventy-four guns. I have added a -statement which shows the names of his largest vessels, with the names -of some of the smaller classes: the rate of each: where built, and -where stationed in the month of October last, as given by Capt. Seydlin -Calfaun, the sultan's English interpreter and translator, and a naval -commander. - -Previous to the conclusion of the treaty, American vessels paid -generally _seven and a half_ per cent. upon imports, and seven and a -half per cent. upon exports, with anchorage money and presents. The -governor of the out ports claimed the right of pre-emption in both -cases, and they resorted to the most nefarious practices to accumulate -wealth. - -The commerce of the United States, under the treaty, is entirely freed -from _all_ inconvenient restrictions, and pays but _one_ charge, namely -_five_ per cent. on all _merchandise landed_, and it is freed from the -charge of pilotage, as every port has pilots which are kept in pay by -the sultan. - -The currency of Muscat differs materially from that of the Persian -gulf, or Africa; it is as follows, viz.: twenty gass-rauz-auz or -rauhzee, make one mamoody; one hundred and forty-two pise or pesos, -make one Spanish dollar; but it varies from one hundred and twenty to -one hundred and fifty;[A] three and a quarter Persian rupees make one -Spanish dollar at present; two and a quarter Bombay rupees, (less five -pise,) one Spanish dollar; two and a quarter Surat rupees, (less five -pise,) one Spanish dollar. - -[A] The value of a Spanish dollar in this copper coin is styled a -"black mamoody." The abovenamed copper coin is the quarter _Ana_ of -the British East India Company; eleven and a half "white mamoodies" -constitute one Spanish dollar, (this is invariable.) It is a nominal -money or money of account. - -The Spanish doublon is worth from fourteen to sixteen dollars according -to weight, but more than fifteen dollars is readily obtained. - -The weights of Muscat are as follows, viz.: twenty-four rials make one -maund; the custom-house maund is eight and three fourths pounds; the -bazar-maund is eight, eight and a fourth, and eight and a half pounds. - - _The following exhibits a Statement of the Naval Force of the - Sultan of Muscat, showing the names of his largest vessels, with - some of the smaller classes--the rates of each; where built, and - where stationed in the month of October, 1833._ - - NAMES. RATES. WHERE BUILT. WHERE STATIONED. - - Liverpool, 74, Bombay, Zanzibar. - Shah Alum, 56, Bombay, Zanzibar. - Caroline, 40, Ramgoon, Muscat. - Prince of Wales, 36, Demaun, Muscat. - Hemingshaw, 36, Cochin, Calcutta. - Piedmontese, 32, Muscat, Muscat. - Mossafa, 24, Cochin, Muscat. - Rahmani, 22, Bombay, Muscat. - Fulke, 18, Demaun, Bombay. - Soliman Shah, 18, Muscat, Muscat. - Curlew, (brig,) 12, Bombay, Muscat. - Psyche, (brig,) 12, Cochin, Muscat. - Tage, (yacht,) 6, Malabar coast, Zanzibar. - Vestal, 6, Muscat, Muscat. - Elphinstone, 6, Bombay, Bombay. - - Also fifty baghelas carrying from eight to eighteen guns, and ten - balits carrying from four to six guns. The baghela is a one-masted - vessel, from two hundred to three hundred tons. The balit is also a - one-masted vessel, from one to two hundred tons. Part of his naval - force was employed in convoying vessels up the Persian gulf, some - in Africa, &c., &c. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - - DEPARTURE FROM MUSCAT--ARRIVAL AT QUINTANGONY AND - MOZAMBIQUE--EXPORTS FROM MOZAMBIQUE--IMPORTS--DEPARTURE FROM - MOZAMBIQUE--ARRIVAL AT TABLE BAY--CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. - - -Our voyage from Muscat to Mozambique was not marked by any particular -occurrence, excepting the death of a very young and valuable officer. -The southwest monsoon having ended, we were in daily expectation -of the advent of the northeast monsoon; but on the morning of the -seventh of October, without waiting for a change of wind, as we were -ready for sea, we weighed anchor again, in company with our consort, -depending mostly upon the assistance of the current; for there was -scarcely "a breath, the blue wave to curl." As soon as the anchor was -"apeek," and the topsails sheeted home and hoisted up, eighteen guns -were fired, as a parting salute to the hospitable sultan, (sooltaun,) -which was returned with twenty-one. Not wishing to be behind-hand in -an act of courtesy, three more were fired. The effect produced by the -echo, among the serrated and cavernous rocks and mountains about the -cove of Muscat, and the neighbouring hills, was surpassingly fine; -loud, distinct, and repeated charges were heard, apparently, for the -space of several minutes, until the reverberations died away, in -faint echoes, among the distant hills in the southeast, west, and -northwestern quarters. The winds were very light, from the southward -and eastward, the first part of the passage, until we arrived in about -5° south, when it changed gradually to the northward and eastward, -and continued so until we arrived at Mozambique. We had abundance of -rain about the equator, accompanied by light squalls and calms; the -currents setting generally to the southward and westward; they also -set to the southward and eastward, and to the northward and eastward, -due west, and to the northwest. A short distance to the northward -and eastward of the island of Socotra, (Socotera,) it set in for -three successive days, about 70° west, eighty-six miles, and for the -seven successive days to the southward and westward, two hundred and -sixty-five miles. The particulars of each day, I omit, as it can only -interest the navigator; but what I have stated, will serve to show -the absolute necessity of having firstrate chronometers, or the lunar -observations carefully attended to; and never omitted to be taken -when practicable. On our passage through the channel, we entered the -small port Quintangony, seeing the Portuguese flag flying on a fort, -mistaking it for Mozambique, as the bearings answered to its situation, -and the table-land being north of it. We weighed anchor forthwith, and -in two hours afterward, on the afternoon of the seventh of November, we -discovered the island of St. George, which has a flag-staff and a small -battery, and to the southward of it, the island of St. Jago; and at -the same time the island of Mozambique, lying to the westward, distant -about three miles, with its formidable castle and its neat white -houses, appeared in view. - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL AT MOZAMBIQUE.] - -Before the sun had sunk behind the forest of palm-trees, which clothe -the mainland of Africa, we found ourselves snugly at anchor, in a fine -harbour, surrounded by twenty or thirty coasting craft, and several -large Brazilian and Lisbon vessels. The town presented the most -respectable and pleasing appearance; our cares were lulled to rest, -for the present, being most grateful to the Giver of all good, for -having conducted us thus far in safety, though sickness and sorrow, -anxiety and death, had caused sad havoc among us--making the ocean -the grave and the winding-sheet of many a brave and worthy heart, -although clothed with a rough exterior--leaving a sad chasm among -companions and friends, among parents and wives, and poor fatherless -children. The last death which took place among us, was that of a -most worthy and excellent young man, Midshipman Lewis H. Roumfert -of Mount Holly, Pennsylvania. Had he lived, he would have been an -ornament to his profession, and a most useful member of society; but -God willed it otherwise, and, therefore, we ought not to complain. A -short distance to the eastward of the island of Socotra, in the Indian -ocean, he was laid in his watery grave. The solemn and sublime service -of the Protestant Episcopal church was read by our worthy surgeon, -Dr. Ticknor; the main-topsail being aback, and the colours hoisted -half-mast. The topsails being filled again, we left him, poor fellow, -sinking down into an earthless grave: - - "Down, down through waters fathomless," - -_there_ to remain, until the last trump shall sound, and the sea shall -disgorge its mighty dead. - -We had scarcely dropped anchor, before an official visit was made by a -lieutenant. A salute was fired in the morning, which was returned by -an equal number of guns from the castle. The commandant of the castle, -Juan Alexander de Almedia, and the acting-governor, was desirous of -receiving us at the fort with military honours, and a message was sent -to that effect, but which was declined; and at noon we landed, and were -received by the commandant at the grand entrance, with a double file -of soldiers with "present arms." This noble fort was built by Juan de -Castro, in 1518, and it is certainly, for the most part, in a fine -state of preservation. It is called Santo Sebastiano, and it appears -capable of resisting any force which probably will ever be sent against -it, notwithstanding the honeycombed state of many of the iron cannon, -and the very weak state of the garrison. It is of a quadrangular form, -having an extensive bomb-proof citadel, capable of protecting all the -inhabitants of the town, in case of a siege, with sufficient magazines -for munitions of war and provisions. - -An immense cistern stands in the middle of the parade, which is filled -by the annual rains. The inhabitants are supplied from this cistern, -whenever the rainy season fails, as well as the shipping; the latter -being obliged to pay one dollar per cask. Ships-of-war, of all nations, -are furnished from it gratis. Our little squadron was supplied from it -by means of pipes, made of condemned iron guns, which lead outside the -gate. The fort and two water-batteries adjoining it, on the extreme -point, mount one hundred and thirty guns, of all calibers, of brass and -iron, in all stages of decay, and apparently of all ages, excepting the -modern. Some of the large brass ones are highly ornamented, and of a -handsome mould. Two of the heaviest enfilade the entrance, and throw -each a hundred and five pounds of stone shot, which I should only have -expected to meet with at the Dardanelles. The oldest chapel on the -island, fronts the grand parade. It is now in a state of dilapidation, -being rent through the centre of the stone roof by an earthquake. A -small new chapel has been built outside the walls, within a water -battery, on the northern side. - -In consequence of the death of the governor, the government is now -administered by a junta, consisting of the civil, ecclesiastical, and -military orders. - -Joaquim Xavier Dinir Costa is the acting-governor, although second in -the council. Trei Antonio da Maià, bishop, being the first member, and -Colonel Francisco Heririquer Ferraò, being the third. We visited the -acting-governor, who offered every assistance in his power, and sent -us very generously, out of a scanty supply, as well as the commandant, -fruit, vegetables, &c. - -A council, consisting of such heterogenous materials, never did and -never will amalgamate well together. It is like an attempt to combine -vinegar with oil, which has never yet been effected, and so it was with -these gentlemen; no two could ever agree upon any essential point, -excepting always, to find "ways and means" to obtain their salaries. I -omitted to state, that, in examining the magazines within the castle, -they showed us a great number of flying-artillery, &c. Our curiosity -was highly gratified by the sight of some ancient armour, consisting -of helmets, cuirasses, and lances, which were deposited there in -bygone days, soon after the fort was built, being brought by Juan de -Castro from Portugal. There are two fortifications built at the other -extremity of the island, to protect the southern and western passages. -The officers in these forts are Canaveens, or natives of Goa and of -East Africa, born of Portuguese parents, who, in the lapse of several -generations, have become black, although they have no wool or negro -features. A more deadly affront could not be offered them than to say -they are not _white_. In the castle, they are from Portugal and Brazil. -The island has a coral foundation, and is covered with white sand. -It is about a mile and a half in length, and averages less than half -a mile in width; it is almost wholly unproductive of vegetation: the -inhabitants depending on Cabaceira and Mesuril, on the main, for their -daily supplies of fruits, and vegetables, and meat. - -[Sidenote: PRODUCTS.] - -The harbour abounds with fish; but they are nearly destitute of boats, -(although not from the want of wood or workmen.) Not a single fish was -offered us for sale, although the inhabitants have become wretchedly -poor, and are overburdened with slaves whose present low rate, from -three to eight dollars, and often at half the price I name, holds out -a temptation to purchase; although they have but a scanty meal for -themselves, and yet, a quarter of a mile from their doors, the waters -swarm with food. Such is the curse of the indolent habits produced by -slavery. But as a happier day is dawning on them slowly, agriculture is -taking place of this vile traffic. It is now said, that coffee, cotton, -sugar, &c., may be cultivated from Da Lagoa bay to cape Delgado, with -the utmost facility; and that tens of thousands of cattle, and sheep, -and goats, may be raised, where the forest occupies the ground, and -the wild beasts roam at large. Instead of being dependant upon foreign -supplies for almost their daily food, they may become exporters to an -enormous amount, in the various products of the forest, the field, -the ocean; in timber, in ivory, in cotton and coffee, sugar, drugs, -salt, rice. Cocoa-nut oil might be made in any quantity along their -coast, yet not a gallon is exported. Already the beneficial efforts -made, begin to develop themselves, in the increased quantity of various -articles from the interior, more particularly in elephant's tusks, -which have amounted this year to upward of ten thousand Portuguese -arrobas, equal to four hundred and thirty thousand pounds; besides the -ivory from hippopotami, which is in great abundance. A large proportion -of the ivory from elephants, comes from the country of the Majonas, -at a distance of about fifty days journey inland. Since slavery has -been abolished, the natives come to the seacoast with little fear of -being kidnapped. Their confidence is daily gaining ground; and a brisk -and praiseworthy trade will take the place of villany and barbarity. -I observed previously that they were almost dependant upon foreign -supplies for the necessaries of life. It is a fact, that a fortnight -previous to our arrival, not a pound of flour, wheaten bread, coffee, -sugar, salted beef or pork, or a bottle of wine or foreign spirits, -could be purchased in the place; but the very fortunate arrival of -several Brazilian and Lisbon vessels, laden with every variety of -articles (put up in small packages,) relieved them from great distress. - -The landing place is in front of the palace square, having the -government-house and a church adjoining, on one side, and the -custom-house on the other. This last is a building, which reflects -great credit upon the place, being neat, commodious, and substantial. -The pier is built on arches of faced stone, and extends to low-water -mark, and is, at all times, an excellent landing. The streets are -narrow, but the principal ones are chunamed on the sides, and some -entirely, where the banyans (the principal traders) inhabit. Many of -the houses are lofty and flat-roofed; but the larger portion of them -are only one story. They show that the inhabitants were once opulent, -but are now fast sinking into poverty and distress. The moral and -religious character of the people is at the lowest ebb possible. It -wants the besom of destruction to pass over the land, to clean out -this Augean stable from the filth and pollution which characterize -this modern Sodom, giving the innocent a warning, which shall be heard -in a voice of thunder. And such is the character of the people, in -the present day generally, from Portugal and Macao. The colony in -East Africa has been entirely neglected by the parent-country for the -last three years, owing to its distressed situation, being wholly -unproductive to the crown of Portugal. Hundreds of unhappy exiles are -dragging out a miserable existence in this most destructive climate, -banished for supposed political offences, without means to live, -excepting by a precarious and scanty subsistence, picked up from day -to day; separated from their distressed families, denied the solitary -comfort of writing, to inform them they are still dragging out a -lengthening chain, or receiving a line from them, if, by chance, they -ascertain where they are to be found; and as if the diabolical malice -of the government knew no bounds, they are banished from the seacoast -to the interior, to prevent their escape, or engaging in insurrections. -I was informed that there are innumerable instances of persons being -taken from their beds at midnight, in Lisbon and elsewhere, hurried -on shipboard, and sent to the Portuguese possessions in East and West -Africa, without a form of trial, or knowing any cause for this outrage -on justice and humanity. Many hundreds have died on the passage from -sickness, brought on by distress of mind; others have been obliged to -beg their daily bread, and finally died of starvation; while hundreds -of others have fallen victims to a destructive climate. - -[Sidenote: HISTORY OF MOZAMBIQUE.] - -A gentleman, now residing at Mozambique, told me, that he and his -brother were taken from their beds at midnight, without being suffered -to hold any communication with their families, with nothing but their -clothes on their backs, and hurried on board two different vessels, -one to West Africa, to Benguela, and the other to East Africa, to -Mozambique; and to make it the more heart-rending, all near relations -were separated in this manner. We heard similar distressing accounts, -when at the Cape de Verd islands and at Macao. The bitter curses -which have ascended to Heaven, against the Braganza family, for the -last three hundred years, from the exiles of Portugal, to South -America, Africa, and India, from aged parents, heart-broken wives, and -fatherless children, will shortly sweep from the earth this destructive -scourge, and leave on record but a small part of the vile doings of -the most heartless, worthless, lascivious, and diabolical monarch, -which ever disgraced the face of the earth. When this place was first -visited by Vasco de Gama, in the latter part of the fourteenth century, -the crescent was flying instead of the cross, and he was welcomed by -the Arabs with music and dancing. But the attempt to plant, rather too -abruptly, the standard of our holy religion, was received with disgust; -and the followers of the prophet flew to arms, but were discomfited -by their more warlike foes. In fact, they at length submitted to the -conquerors, who then made great exactions of provisions and of every -thing else, of which they stood in need. It is stated, that at that -time, every part of the country, capable of cultivation, was well -attended to; that their flocks and herds were peacefully grazing upon -the plains; that the slave-trade had barely a name; and that the people -were trading to various parts of the coast, to Zofar, or Zofal, the -Sofala of modern days--supposed by some to be the land of gold--the -Ophir of King Solomon, to the Red and to the Erythrean sea, or Persian -gulf. - -From the time the Portuguese took possession of it, till the -suppression of the slave-trade, a short time since, peace was banished -from the land. The Mocouas, their immediate neighbours, were seized -and sold, like beasts of the forest; the lands were made desolate, the -palm, the mango, the casheu, (alia acajou,) soon covered the fields; -and the wild elephants, the hippopotami, the rhinoceros, and the tiger, -were to be seen roaming at large, as they are at this day, where peace, -and happiness, and contentment had taken up their abode. The cross, the -emblem of our holy religion, instead of proving a blessing, carrying -with it, as it does, when duly propagated, a balmy influence, and -bearing healing on its wings, has proved calamitous in its tendency. -It has blasted the hopes of millions, confirmed the superstition of -idolaters, and fixed more deeply the rooted prejudices of the Moslem. -Thus the cross has, unfortunately, proved in the Brazil, in East and -West Africa, in Arabia, in the East Indies, in China, and Japan; so -that the name of Christian has become a by-word and a curse, whereever -its doctrines have been propagated by the Portuguese or Spaniards. -Every engine, which brutal force could apply, has been used without the -slightest compunction. Humanity appears to have had no place in their -adamantine breasts, and the mild and peaceful doctrines, expressly -laid down by our Saviour, have never been inculcated; but fire and -the sword, assisted by a detestable and horrible inquisition, have -been preferred in _their_ place, and oppression, fraud, and cruelty -have been resorted to in every shape, to answer the most nefarious -purposes of the government and its religion, and the sordid views of -unprincipled individuals. What might not have been the state of things, -if the liberal views of the founder of the Roman Catholic religion, -in Maryland, had been propagated, and they had been blessed with a -government founded on just and equitable principles! Look at Maryland, -and the Roman Catholic religion, as it exists in our own blessed -country, and behold the contrast!!! Look at our political institutions, -and the happy and prosperous situation of a settlement, begun upward -of one hundred years after the Portuguese took possession of their -present miserable colonies, by a noble, but persecuted band of English -settlers--and see the present situation of Portugal and its conquests. -With the exception of Brazil, which has just slipped her leading -strings, what can be more wretched? To prove the unappeasable hostility -of the nations, in East Africa, towards their oppressors, and every -one who wears straight _hair_, it is a fact well known by all who are -well acquainted with the state of things here, and substantiated by the -Portuguese themselves, that they dare not go half a dozen miles into -the country, without an armed guard. And this is the state of things, -from Da Lagoa bay (alias Lorenzo Marques) to cape Delgado, after having -had possession of the coast upward of three hundred years; and so it -is at Bissaõ, Saint Paul de Loando, Benguela, &c., in West Africa. The -Portuguese, under a liberal form of government, unshackled by a state -religion, known to be corrupt beyond measure, would prove themselves -to be, as they once were, a noble people, zealous in all good works. - -As it regards the first circumnavigator of the cape of Good Hope and -the discoverer of South and East Africa, the world seems willing to -award the whole merit of the discovery to Vasco de Gama, and he is held -forth in bold relief, at the expense of others, who are entitled at -least to a small share of it. In looking into ancient history, there is -much light shed upon it. According to Herodotus, it seems that one of -the most illustrious of native Egyptian kings, "actuated by the spirit -of a great man, which raised him superior to the age in which he lived, -eagerly sought the solution of the grand mystery, that involved the -_form_ and termination of Africa." In furtherance of this noble project -and to ensure it success if practicable, he employed the boldest of -navigators in those days, to wit, certain Phenicians. Having obtained -vessels which were thought suitable for the enterprise, they proceeded -down the Red sea and boldly launched out into the Indian ocean, and -after a voyage of three years, they made the complete circuit of -the continent, passing through the Pillars of Hercules (straits of -Gibraltar) and up the Mediteranean to Egypt. - -They stated that in passing the most southern coast of Africa, they -were surprised by observing the sun on their _right hand_, or to the -north of them, a statement which the historian rejected as impossible. -This very circumstance, which threw an air of discredit over the -whole transaction, was the strongest proof that could be adduced in -confirmation of what is known to every one in the present day, that to -the south of the equator this must necessarily have taken place.--Some -writers have deemed it impossible for other reasons, because of the -smallness and weakness of their vessels--but as we see thousands -of small craft, in the China, Java, Red and Arabian seas, and from -cape Guardafui to Da Lagoa bay, of not more than fifteen to twenty -tons burden and some even less, open amidships, or having merely a -palmleaf-covering, _sowed_ together with coir spun-yarn the seams -being calked with the same stuff and chunamed outside, the _rudders_ -being _tied_ on, where we use braces and pintles, which are always -unshipped in port, and secured again by the crew who are expert -divers--without even pumps, the water being bailed up amidships and -poured into a spout which leads from side to side--the wonder rather -ceases, and it is certainly a strong and convincing proof that the -_craft_ of the Phenician navigators was no obstacle to the enterprise. -Added to this, all small vessels as well as more large ones in the -seas I have named, always keep in _shore_ and never quit it unless -from necessity--and furthermore, by far the greater part do not use -compasses. And if further confirmation is wanted, look at the numerous -enterprises projected by the Malegashes (people of Madagascar) a few -years since, against the Comoro islands and various places in Africa, -against the Portuguese settlement and those of the sultan of Muscat, -in open _canoes, without compass or sails_, being propelled by paddles -and carrying sometimes upward of six thousand warriors. This shows the -practicability of exploring the coast even in more unsafe vessels, and -of a much smaller description, for the Malegashes were necessarily out -sight of land from two to three days occasionally, as the distance from -Grand Comoro to the Querimba islands on the main, where they landed -several times, is not less than one hundred and thirty-five miles. -Look at the hardy sons of New England also, navigating the Atlantic -ocean on vessels of thirty or forty tons, visiting every creek and nook -in the Falkland islands, South Shetland and Cape Horn, in search of -seals. Furthermore, there was the voyage of Pedro de Cavalho, and he -transmitted his description to Portugal. - -Now if the account of Herodotus is untrue, still Diaz's discovery of -the cape and Cavalho's voyage to Soffala, left de Gama but the short -distance of one thousand two hundred miles to explore, and therefore -he is only entitled to a small share of the credit which threw so much -lustre on the Portuguese name, in effecting a passage by sea to the -East Indies, which was previously performed by a most circuitous and -tedious route by land and by water; for de Gama, on his arrival at -Quilmany, obtained pilots to Mozambique, and from thence onward all -obstructions were removed. - -All that vast tract of country lying between the cape of Good Hope -and cape Guardafui, may now be said to be parcelled out among three -nations. The English are gradually or rather rapidly settling that -whole tract of country lying between the cape district (cape of Good -Hope) and Da Lagoa bay. There is a considerable settlement at Fish -river, about six hundred miles east of the cape, and there is a small -one begun at port Natal, about two hundred and seventy miles to the -north and eastward of it, on the coast of Natal, which is about the -same distance to Da Lagoa bay, still further to the eastward; and -they claim part of Da Lagoa bay by gift from a negro king, Mayetta, -the sovereign of Temba. This brings them to the borders of the -Portuguese settlements. The Portuguese claim from Da Lagoa bay to the -cape Delgado, lying in about 10° south. From the latter cape to cape -Guardafui, it is claimed (with all the islands adjacent to the coast) -by the sultan of Muscat. - -The exports from Mozambique do not exceed half a million of dollars, -(since the suppression of the slave-trade.) These consist in elephant -and hippopotamus ivory, gold dust, tortoise-shell, ambergris, -columbo-root, drugs, cowries, rhinoceros-horns, and hides, &c., &c. -This is certainly a very meager account of the value of its exports, -to which may be added, pearls of a superior quality, there being an -abundance about the Bazaruto islands; but its resources are yet to -be developed, and I have stated previously of what they may consist, -provided the government will throw off all shackles which embarrass -trade, and have a duty not exceeding that which is now imposed by the -sultan of Muscat, to wit: a duty of five per cent. only, on goods -landed and sold, without any other charge whatever. If this is not -done, all trade among foreigners must necessarily proceed to the -sultan's dominions, in East Africa. The duties and exactions on foreign -commerce are so exorbitant, but more particularly on the American -trade, that our flag has almost entirely deserted all the Portuguese -ports in West as well as in East Africa. The Americans pay twenty-four -per cent. and the English fifteen, on imports, exclusive of an almost -endless number of fees, besides export duties. - -Imports consist of coarse cotton goods, white, brown, blue, and -striped, as well as some fine cottons, and a small quantity of light -quality woollen cloth, principally blue, suitable for the army. Powder, -arms, beads, sugar, tea, coffee, wine, spirits, &c.; in fact, every -article useful to eat, or to drink, or to clothe themselves. - -[Sidenote: DEPARTURE FROM MOZAMBIQUE.] - -Our passage from Mozambique to Table bay, was marked with storms and -tempests, violent and sudden gales, accompanied with a mountainous -sea. After passing the dangerous reef of rocks, called the Bassas -de India, in the southern part of the Mozambique channel, we were -assailed by one gale, with the rapidity of lightning, in the latitude -twenty-eight, and longitude thirty-four east, taking the ship -"_flat-aback_" instantaneously, and placing us in a most dangerous -and critical situation. It was a doubtful case, for some minutes, -whether she would not overset, or go down stern foremost. But "_He_ -who holds the winds in his power, the waters in the hollow of his -hand," mercifully decreed that we should once more see the living -objects of our affections, and be restored in safety to our beloved -country--"to the land of the brave, and the home of the free;" for -the ship's head "_payed off_," and she was got before the wind, all -sail being taken in, and drove before this furious hurricane for the -space of eight hours, under _bare poles_, the captain not daring to -loosen an inch of canvass to the tempest during that time. The first -three or four hours, she went at the rate of twelve miles per hour, -and when her rate had diminished to about eight knots, having had, in -the meantime, every article that would lessen the weight on the spar -and gun-decks, placed in the hold and on the berth-deck, she was "hove -to." It would have been done in the commencement of the gale, but as -the ship was very light, and the stock of provisions nearly expended, -it was apprehended, in bringing her "to the wind," she would overset, -when all would inevitably have perished. We touched on the northeastern -edge of bank Agulhas, for the purpose of taking advantage of the strong -southerly and westerly current, and we were by no means disappointed, -for the ship was set to the extraordinary distance of one hundred and -twenty-three miles, in twenty-four hours, south, 71° west, between the -twenty-sixth and twenty-seventh of November, from the latitude of 32° -36´, and longitude 25° 16´, to the latitude of 35° 21´ and longitude -23° 8´; but it was accompanied by a tremendous wrecking sea. As we -had three excellent chronometers, and made the land at daybreak the -following morning, about the bay of St. Sebastian; we ascertained, both -then and afterward, there was no error; and yet, on the twenty-sixth -and twenty-eighth, the current was very feeble, not exceeding thirteen -miles in the two days. On the thirtieth, we made the most southern land -of Africa, being cape Agulhas. It is a low flat point, the sea always -breaking over it. We saw, in the course of the day, cape Hanglip, -and the cape of Good Hope also, which bound the entrance into False -bay. Heavy gales of wind, between west and northwest, continued until -the fourth of December, when we made Table mount, and stood into the -bay in a violent southeast gale. We then saw, for the first time, -the phenomenon of the cloud-capped mount, which is always seen when -the wind is from that quarter. One looks with astonishment, at what -seems always to be the same cloud, sideling along from east to west, -apparently remaining stationary, without being instantly dispersed by -the furious tempest; but Doctor Arnott thus accounts for the singular -beauty and density of the clouds, which frequently envelop the mount, -and the cause of its creation and final dispersion: "The reason of the -phenomenon is, that the air, constituting the wind from the northeast, -having passed over the vast southern ocean, comes charged with as much -invisible moisture as the temperature can sustain. In rising up the -side of the mountain, it is rising in the atmosphere, and is therefore -gradually escaping from a part of the former pressure; and on attaining -the summit, it has dilated so much, and has consequently become so much -colder, that it lets go part of its moisture: and it no sooner falls -over the edge of the mountain and again descends in the atmosphere to -where it is pressed, and condensed and heated as before, than it is -re-dissolved and disappears: the magnificent apparition dwelling only -on the mountain-top." - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL AT TABLE BAY.] - -The ship came to anchor, about one mile from the landing, soon after -sunrise, and a beautiful _home scene_ was presented to our view. The -town is on a sloping plane, and rises gradually to the foot of the -celebrated Table mountain, a distance of about three miles, the height -of this precipitous mountain being three thousand six hundred feet. -The town is seen stretching out also on the right towards the Lion's -Head, which is at an elevation of two thousand eight hundred feet, and -again to the extreme right towards the Lion's Rump, which is at an -elevation of one thousand one hundred and forty feet. Around the base -of this hill, which is called Green Point, are a great many neat villas -and cottages. On this point stands the light-house, containing two -excellent lights on the same level. On the left again, farmhouses are -scattered about the base of the Devil's Peak, which is three thousand -three hundred feet high; the road leading to Wynberg is seen winding -round it. The vine-fields were beautifully verdant, the grape just -beginning to fill out, and the fruit and ornamental trees appeared to -be abundant in the city and about the cottages; but still the general -appearance of the country was far from being verdant, and the few -trees called the protea dispersed about the elevated and uncultivated -parts of the land, disappoint an American eye, being deficient in -noble forest-trees. The violent southeast gale of the previous day -having subsided, ushered forth a day redolent with sweets to the weary -mariner, being calm, mild and beautiful; the smoke was ascending from -a thousand fires in the town, preparing the early meal; a school or -church bell was heard in the distance; the people who visited us, -speaking the English language, forcibly reminded us of home and a -thousand endearing and painful recollections, after an absence of -nearly two years; but our cares were once more hushed, and the stormy -Indian ocean and its ten thousand perils were almost obliterated from -our memories, like the forms of last year's clouds; and with grateful -hearts we found ourselves again within the pale of civilization, in a -bracing and healthy climate which we had long and ardently desired to -meet, to recruit our debilitated frames, which were nearly exhausted -by the baneful climates of Java and Manila, Siam and Muscat, Mocha -and Mozambique. An interchange of salutes took place on our arrival, -but the effect of the echo, was not comparable to that produced by -the amphitheatre of rocky hills and caverns which encompass Muscat. -In passing up from the landing, we went through the water street of -every seaport town, across the grand parade to George's hotel, in the -street called Heeregracht, through the centre of which is a canal -which conducts off the waste water flowing from the base of Table -mount. From the same source the town and shipping are supplied, the -fountain-head being at the beautiful seat of Mt. Breda, by means of -iron pipes which conduct it to the jetty: hose being led into the casks -from the conductors, boats are enabled to load with great ease. The -canal is shaded on either side by the cape oak; it also passes through -a fine shaded walk which is still called the public garden, although -a very large portion of it is appropriated, most ignominiously, to -the culture of vegetables: it is probably two thirds of a mile in -length. The town is regularly laid out, is said to contain about -twenty-two thousand inhabitants, and has a neat appearance; there are -shops in abundance, but prices are extravagantly high. The houses are -generally made flat-roofed, so that the violence of the winds may -less affect them: they are built of ordinary brick and stuccoed; the -interior arrangements of the richer class, are similar to those in -larger cities. One is very much reminded of a Dutch American town in -the state of New York, excepting that soldiers are stationed at every -principal place, as though the inhabitants were not trustworthy; they -are seen before courts of justice, the government-house, postoffice, -and custom-house, but they are never seen in my own country, even -before the _palace_ of the President. - -[Sidenote: CLIMATE--FRUITS.] - -The climate of Cape Town is unquestionably very healthy, and not -surpassed in equability and in the agreeableness of its temperature. -In fact, the transition from heat to cold is very inconsiderable, in -comparison with many other climates. It seems, from a meteorological -table, kept for several years, that the mean temperature of Cape Town, -was at 67¼° of Fahrenheit; the mean temperature, for the coldest winter -month, was 57°, the hottest, 79°, and the least heat during summer -was 63. Although the proportion of deaths is more than double that of -Portsmouth, in New Hampshire, yet this number is greatly augmented by -invalids from India, who there find their graves; but in the other -districts it is about in the same ratio as Portsmouth, averaging -about one and a half per centum. It was truly refreshing, to see the -rosy-cheeked children, and the healthy appearance of the inhabitants -generally, after having spent many months among the pale, sallow -complexioned and dying East Indians. Here an Indian may renovate his -exhausted frame, and be cured (if it be possible) of that never-ending -source of complaint, a diseased liver. There are good roads, pleasant -country-seats, fine horses, and good carriages; and he must be very -fastidious in his taste, who cannot be suited in his viands, for here -are fish, flesh, and fowl, in great variety. As to fruit, the quality -is excellent; the prices are very low, and the variety is certainly -extraordinary--for in January there are plums, apricots, peaches, -almonds, strawberries, mulberries, grapes, apples, oranges, lemons, -figs, muskmelons, and watermelons. In February the same. In March the -same, adding thereto lemons and pomegranates. In April, add pears, -limes, and quinces. In May, medlars, jambos or rose-apple, loquats, -a Chinese fruit, &c. In June, add shaddocks and citron, with various -kinds of apples and pears. In July, August, and September, the same, -adding oranges to the last month. In October, adding guavas, &c. In -November, early figs, strawberries, green almonds, and the fruits of -September and October. In December the same. And as to vegetables, -they are in every variety, almost at all seasons of the year. And who -could be so devoid of taste, as not to be gratified with the sight -of the immense variety of flowers, shrubs, and parasitical plants -which greet the eye at every step? It may, therefore, truly be called -Florida, or the Land of Flowers. The luxuries of Europe, of America, of -India, of China, and Australia--in short, of the world, are here; and -as to the inhabitants, so far as I had the pleasure of being acquainted -with the English part of them, they deserve every commendation -it is in my power to bestow, for their hospitality and unwearied -kindness--more particularly the acting-governor, Lieutenant-Colonel -Wade, the Honourable Mr. Justice Menzies, A. Oliphant, Esq., the -attorney-general, J. B. Edwards, Captain Bance, and the officers of the -seventy-second Highlanders; Captain Stevens, the commander, and the -officers of the ninety-eighth regiment. - -The articles of export of the most importance, are aloes, oil, raisins, -and other dried fruits; salt, tallow, and wool. There is exported also -excellent salted beef and butter, and bread, but no pork. The following -prices were paid for sundry articles, purchased by Mr. Stockton, -the purser, for the Peacock:--ale, two Spanish dollars per dozen, -(Cape made;) geese, one dollar; sheep, two dollars; fowls, fifteen -rix dollars; per dozen; flour, averages generally from ten to eleven -dollars, it is rarely as low as eight dollars fifty cents, frequently -at twelve Spanish dollars per barrel, of one hundred and ninety-six -pounds; hams and bacon, from Europe, twenty-three to thirty-five cents -per pound; butter, (Cape,) thirty-one and a quarter cents, including -keg; potatoes, six dollars per barrel, including barrel; pork, (Irish,) -twenty-five dollars; salt beef, (Cape,) eleven dollars per barrel, -two hundred pounds, including barrel, or four and a quarter cents -per pound without; beef, (fresh,) five cents; biscuit, five cents, -including bags; bread, (soft,) four cents; cheese, (Dutch,) twenty-one -cents; brandy, (Cape,) including pipe, which costs ten dollars, -sixty cents per gallon; Cape Madeira wine is from five to eighteen -pounds sterling per pipe of one hundred and ten gallons, according to -quality and ripeness; cordage, sixty shillings per one hundred English -pounds; ratline and spunyarn, fifty-four shillings; Stockholm tar, -fifty-four shillings per barrel; blocks eight-pence per inch; sperm -oil, seven and sixpence per gallon; linseed oil, seven shillings; -nails, ninepence sterling per pound; fir-plank, four-pence halfpenny -per foot; carpenters, six shillings per day; spirits of turpentine, -seven shillings and sixpence per gallon; pump-leather, five shillings -per pound; three and a half sides, tanned leather, cost sixty shillings -sterling; houseline, seven shillings and sixpence per dozen. The four -kinds of the celebrated Constantia are sold as follows:-- - -[Sidenote: PRICES OF WINES.] - - £ _s._ _d._ - - Frontignac, per half aum of 19 gallons 13 2 6 - White ditto ditto 11 5 0 - Red ditto ditto 9 7 6 - Pontac, the richest, ditto ditto 22 10 0 - -The last costing nearly six dollars per gallon. There will probably -be added to the list of exports in a few years, olive-oil, cocoa, -figs, almonds, nuts, dried, pickled and smoked fish, raw silk, cotton, -tobacco, grapes and currants. If the British government would impose -a reasonable duty on _cape_ produce _at home_, the quantity of wine, -brandy, dried fruits, &c., would be vastly increased, and many a barren -field and neglected hill would blossom like the rose, and pour forth -riches inexhaustible. That any duty at all should be paid, seems most -strange and unnatural to an American, but that it should amount to a -prohibition (as on wine) is unbearable. At their own sister-colonies, -they are obliged to pay as follows; at Mauritius, six per cent. at New -South Wales, five, and at Hobart town, Van Diemen's land, fifteen per -cent.: whereas in Brazil they pay only the latter duty. What would -seem more strange to an American planter in Louisiana, than to have -his produce most extravagantly taxed, or taxed at all in the state of -Maine, but most fortunately it is prohibited by the constitution of the -United States. No less a duty than two shillings and six pence sterling -per gallon is paid on cape wine in England, and dried fruits are -extravagantly taxed. Taxation without _representation_ was one of the -causes of revolution, and the stamp act was another, with both of which -their colonies are burdened. It matters not whether they tax their -colonists, on the spot where there domicil is, or whether it is done in -England on their produce. The duty on imports and exports is the most -important branch of the revenue of the cape. Great Britain requires the -colony to pay the whole expense of her establishments, except the army -and navy, and yet all important offices are filled by the crown. As -it respects the local taxes they are almost innumerable. Among these -enumerated, I find every male or female, bond or free, who has arrived -at the age of sixteen, pays an annual tax of six shillings sterling -each, and ten shillings more on every servant, besides a tax on horses -and carriages, on the productions of the farm, wine, brandy, &c., &c. -In reference to household expenses, meat, fish and bread are cheap, but -wood is extravagantly high, and ever will be, as no coal has ever yet -been found in this, or in any other part of Africa; it is frequently as -high as six to seven pounds ten shilling sterling per chaldron. Sydney -can furnish it at a much cheaper rate, and it will probably soon be -brought altogether from that quarter. Servants' wages are higher here -than in any other country, and house rent is at about the same rate as -in New York. It seems almost incredible, yet it is unquestionably true, -that the contract price for fresh beef and mutton (for 1833) to supply -the garrison at the cape, should be at a fraction _less_ than a penny -per pound, and that bread should be furnished at a penny per pound; but -I presume it is made of barley and oats, and probably a proportion of -beans, as it is frequently in England, for it cannot be made of wheat -for three times the price. This information is derived from Governor -Wade. It is most surprising, that not a single whale-ship belongs to -the cape, when whales are so abundant, even within sight of their -harbours. There are two small boat-whaling establishments in False bay, -one at Cape Town, one in Algoa, and one in Plettenberg's bay. The boats -are mostly of a bad construction, and too small; they fish only for cow -whale, when they come into still water to calve, and cleanse themselves -with sand; but this kind of fishery is very destructive to the species, -and they have greatly diminished in numbers, so that the business is -scarcely worth following. Neither do they dry, pickle or smoke fish for -exportation, and yet the bays swarm with them, and there is a mine of -wealth yet untouched on the bank of Agulhas. The Brazil and La Plata, -the Mauritius, &c., would furnish good markets, and a fine hardy set of -seamen would be raised for commercial and other purposes. The fishing -on the bank is not so hazardous as that of Newfoundland, and they save -a tedious voyage, in going and returning; in fact, it may be said they -may be always in sight of their own homes. Salt is abundant, and the -weather never cold, they can make their own lines and leads, lead being -found in the colony, and they can raise cotton and make their sails -and cordage, and there is a plenty of timber on the east and northeast -coast. There are but eleven vessels belonging to the cape, of all -descriptions, which are principally employed in coasting voyages to -Port Elizabeth; they are from forty to one hundred and seventy tons, -and their united tonnage is but one thousand one hundred and four -tons. The colony has been represented to me, by many gentlemen, who -have visited all the districts, as being poor, the soil generally very -light and thin, and very deficient in water, the rivers being deep -seated, which drains off the moisture from the surrounding country, -subject to long and destructive droughts, and cursed with locusts -and grasshoppers, and the karras or plains being very extensive, and -totally unfit for cultivation, and withal very mountainous. But still, -I am convinced, that abundance of grain can be raised to advantage, -and wool, raw silk, wine, dried fruits, beef, &c., &c., besides the -products of the ocean, can be exported to a large amount, but Saxony or -Merino wool must become the most prominent article among the exports. -The farmers are wisely rooting out the wire-haired, _big-tailed_ cape -sheep, and substituting those which have _wool on their backs_. It is -not an article of luxury like wine, subject to fluctuations from mere -change of fashion. If his late majesty, George the fourth, had taken a -fancy to cape, instead of xeres, (sherry,) as he did a few years since, -it would have been a fortunate circumstance for the colony: the hills -would have been clothed with vines, instead of a green patch, here and -there, dotting the surface like the oases in a desert. - -[Sidenote: CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.] - -The cape of Good Hope, from its fine geographical position, being -placed on the highway between the world's nations, must become a place -of great importance, when the India and China trade is left free and -unrestricted, as it ought and must be. It is a most convenient stopping -place for the interchange of commodities, or to touch for supplies, or -to obtain information; all they now want is an unshackled commerce, and -a moderate duty laid on their produce in the parent-country, and by -their sister-colonies. Without this reasonable aid, their agriculture, -fisheries and commerce, will make but slow progress, and if the -colony does not become a burden, it can never be of much advantage to -England, excepting to draw off a part of her surplus population, or in -case of a war. But the commerce of the Cape has latterly increased, -notwithstanding burdens and the neglect of the parent-country. The -number of foreign arrivals in Table bay (which was in every month in -the year) from December seventeenth, 1831, to thirtieth November, -1832, was one hundred and ninety-seven; and at Simon's bay thirty-six, -including ships-of-war. At the time the Dutch held the Cape, no vessels -lay in Table bay during the winter months, but now I am informed, no -difference is made in the premium of insurance, between the winter and -summer months. Hempen cables of an extreme size (and anchors of course -in proportion) are always preferable to chain cables in any roadstead, -where there is a heavy swell and violent gales from the ocean; but the -first few fathoms from the anchor, should be chain to guard against -rocks and other obstructions and anchors, and it can readily be secured -to the hempen one. But still no cable is equal to _coir_, having three -valuable properties, being strong, buoyant and exceedingly elastic. -In the La Plata and elsewhere, it has been found, that riding by two -or more hemp cables in one string, in a violent gale and heavy sea, -enables the ship to rise with buoyancy, but if a great length of chain -is veered out, it lies upon the bottom and operates against the rise -of the vessel, and she therefore feels the full force of the sea, -which causes her to plunge deeply, or the sea to break over her, and -consequently there is more danger of foundering. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - - ALGOA BAY--IMPORTS--POPULATION OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE--PUBLIC - INSTITUTIONS--NEWS-PAPERS--DEPARTURE FROM THE CAPE--ARRIVAL - AT RIO JANEIRO--DEPARTURE FROM RIO JANEIRO--ARRIVAL AT BOSTON - HARBOUR--STATISTICAL TABLE. - - -The village in Algoa bay now called Port Elizabeth, is rising into -importance most rapidly. Twelve years since, it contained four houses, -and now it has upward of one hundred, and its residents are rated at -above twelve hundred persons. It is one of the most prominent portions -of the Cape colony, a place of resort for vessels to or from India. -Subscriptions to the amount of five thousand pounds have been raised, -for the purpose of building a lighthouse on cape Receife, and a jetty -for the landing of goods. There are five ships connected with the -direct trade to Europe. The number of vessels which have visited the -port this year is about fifty. There is a good road leading to Graham's -Town, ninety miles in length; it is in the Albany district, and is -said to contain upward of six thousand inhabitants. All imports and -exports by sea, from Graham's Town, &c., and the adjacent district of -Uitenhage, are from this port. The imports in 1828 were fifty-five -thousand two hundred and one pounds, and had increased in 1832 to one -hundred and twelve thousand eight hundred and forty-five pounds, and -the exports from forty-one thousand two hundred and ninety pounds, to -eighty-six thousand nine hundred and thirty-one pounds. Provisions -of all sorts are in abundance, and ships can be watered with great -facility by pipes, leading from a pump to the sea. The exports are -wine, brandy, vinegar, ivory, hides, skins, leather, tallow, butter, -soap, wool, ostrich-feathers, salted beef, wheat, candles, aloes, -barley, &c., &c. - -Plettenberg's bay is another place of resort for vessels in the winter -season, bound home from India. The roadstead is open to southeast, -but the anchorage is good, in eight, nine, and ten fathoms. The bay -is spacious, with sufficient room to beat out, in southeast gales. -The number of inhabitants is about four hundred, upward of one half -being white. Cattle and sheep are plentiful, and it is noted for the -excellence of its butter; and the timber is abundant. - -There is no port of consequence lying between Plettenberg's bay and Da -Lagoa excepting port Natal, and this has but thirteen feet of water at -its entrance; but it is well sheltered from prevailing winds. A few -English traders are only to be found there at present, but there is no -doubt that the British government will have a small garrison stationed -there in the course of 1834. The merchants at Cape Town are preparing -to take immediate advantage of this well-situated port, and protection -from the government follows of course. The traders now penetrate one -hundred and fifty miles along the southern coast beyond Natal, and far -into the interior, in a northerly direction. There are no other ports, -suitable for large ships to visit, than those already named, lying -between False bay and Da Lagoa. The country about Natal is represented -as being very fertile, well wooded and watered, and the climate -healthy; it was exceedingly populous until the modern Attila, _Chaka_, -took possession of it, and slaughtered most of the inhabitants. It -abounds in cattle, and ivory is abundant. The Kowie and great Fish -rivers, where there is a great number of English settlers, may be -made good ports, whenever suitable improvements are made at their -embouchures; they are barred like most of the rivers from the Cape to -Da Lagoa, or I may as well say all the rivers in Southern, Eastern and -Northeastern Africa, or from the cape of Good Hope to cape Guardafui. - -The whole line of North Africa, or the coast leading from the cape of -Good Hope to Benguela, is represented as being worthless, Saldunha -bay, and the coast lying between it and Cape Town, being the only part -where European settlers are found. Saldunah bay is well sheltered from -violent winds, having a sufficient depth of water, but the country is -very sandy and agriculture but little attended to; a few cattle and -sheep are raised among the scanty herbage. Except one or two bays where -whales resort, the remaining part offers no inducements to adventurers. - -[Sidenote: IMPORTS AND EXPORTS.] - -I herewith present the amount of the imports and exports into Table, -Simon's, and Algoa bays, for the year 1831:-- - - Pounds sterling. - The imports into Table bay, from Great Britain, were 271,687 - " " " British colonies 35,620 - " " " Foreign states 35,833 - " " " United States of America 1,207 - --------- - 332,527 - Pounds sterling - The imports into Simon's bay, from Great Britain 120 10 0 - " " " British colonies 1,352 5 0 - " " " Foreign states 628 5 0 - --------- 2,101 - Ditto, ditto, Algoa bay, port Elizabeth, from Great - Britain 9,458 5 0 - " " " British colonies 778 15 0 - " " " Foreign states 187 0 0 - 10,244 - --------- - The whole amount of imports into the Cape of Good Hope colonies £345,052 - --------- - The exports from Table Bay to Great Britain were 100,509 - " " " British colonies 64,596 - " " " Foreign states 11,513 - ---------- - £176,618 - Ditto, ditto, Simon's Bay to Great Britain 2,941 0 0 - " " " British colonies 1,561 0 0 - " " " Foreign states 1,296 0 0 - " " " Navy supplies 5,476 0 0 - ---------- - 11,277 - Ditto, ditto, Algoa Bay, port Elizabeth to Great - Britain 24,019 0 0 - " " " British colonies 4,800 0 0 - " " " Foreign states 1,892 0 0 - ----------- - 30,711 - --------- - £218,606 - -In the amount of exports, from the three ports named, twenty-nine -thousand and thirty-six pounds were articles of foreign growth or -manufacture, leaving the sum of one hundred and eighty-nine thousand, -five hundred and seventy pounds, being the value of articles of -colonial produce for the year 1831. - - The value of exports to Port Elizabeth, in 1831, - from Table Bay, was £44,672 - Value of imports, in return, from Port Elizabeth 34,640 - -These sums not being included in the above statements, must be added -to the aggregate of these ports respectively. Since April, 1832, Cape -Town and Simon's Town have been declared "_free warehousing ports_;" -and Port Elizabeth was declared a "free port" only--all goods of every -description whatever, the growth, productions, or manufacture of Great -Britain, or any of the possessions of the British crown, pay a duty -of three pounds per centum. All goods being the growth, produce, or -manufacture of any of the East India company's possessions, pay ten -pounds per centum. Any foreign nation, at peace with Great Britain, -may import, in foreign ships, any goods, being the growth, produce, -or manufacture of such foreign nation, ten pounds per cent., and they -may export any goods to any country, &c. All casks, barrels, staves, -heading, or hoops, to be used as wine casks, _duty free_. - -No gunpowder, arms, ammunition, or utensils of war, or fresh or -salted beef, pork, dried or salted fish, train oil, blubber, fins, or -skins of creatures living in the sea, can be imported, except from -Great Britain, or some British possession in America. No _tea_ can be -imported, except by the East India company, or some British possession -in America. - -Accounts are kept in pounds, shillings, pence, and farthings, or rix -dollars, skillings, and stivers. One stiver is equal to three eighths -of a penny; six stivers, two and one fourth, or one skilling; _eight_ -skillings, eighteen pence, or one rix dollar. Three shillings and -ninepence is the par value of the Spanish dollar, but they were sold by -the purser of the Peacock at four shillings; and doubloons, at sixteen -dollars, or three pounds four shillings. Bills on England were three -shillings and eleven pence sterling per dollar. - -The weights made use of in this colony, are derived from the standard -pound of Amsterdam, and the pieces permitted to be assized, are from -fifty pounds down to one loot, or the thirty-second part of a pound, -which is regarded as unity. - -Proportions between colonial and British weights and measures. Weights: -ninety-one pounds and four fifths, Dutch, are equal to one hundred -pounds English, avoirdupois. Measures: corn, four Dutch schepels are -equal to one Dutch muid, one hundred and seven ditto, to eighty-two. - -Winchester bushels. A load of ten muids is equal to thirty bushels, two -pecks, one gallon, and one pint English; eight bushels make a quarter -English. - -One ell of cloth is equal to twenty-seven Rhynland inches; one hundred -and thirty-three, fifty-one hundredths, Dutch ells, are equal to one -hundred English yards. - -The truth is, that all articles of produce are sold by English weight, -and not Dutch, unless by a special agreement. - -[Sidenote: POPULATION.] - -The colony of the cape of Good Hope is divided into ten districts. -Herewith, I present a table, showing the whole amount of the population -for 1831-1832; the number of births, marriages, and deaths. Mr. -Greig, the editor and publisher of the South African Almanac, says, -"It is compiled from tax and rolls, and there is an omission of the -itinerants' and Hottentots' settlement at Kat river, &c., to the number -of between fifteen and sixteen thousand;" and Cape Town is supposed to -contain about twenty-two thousand, in December, 1833, instead of the -number stated. - - -------------+-----------------+-----------------+----------------- - | Free Persons, | | - |white & coloured.| Slaves. | Total. - Districts. +--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------- - | Males. |Females.| Males. |Females.| Males. |Females. - -------------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------- - Cape Town | 6,410 | 6,949 | 2,921 | 2,906 | 9,331 | 9,855 - Cape District| 3,703 | 2,977 | 2,709 | 1,473 | 6,412 | 4,450 - Stellenbosch | 3,854 | 3,677 | 4,724 | 4,108 | 8,578 | 7,785 - Worcester | 5,758 | 5,655 | 2,667 | 2,135 | 8,425 | 7,790 - Swellendam | 6,063 | 7,867 | 1,650 | 1,381 | 7,713 | 7,248 - George | 3,286 | 2,740 | 1,106 | 1,068 | 4,392 | 3,808 - Uitenhage | 5,135 | 4,485 | 677 | 616 | 5,812 | 5,101 - Albany | 3,572 | 2,705 | 72 | 67 | 3,644 | 2,772 - Somerset | 4,494 | 4,375 | 781 | 623 | 5,275 | 4,998 - Graff Reinet | 6,397 | 4,613 | 1,505 | 944 | 7,902 | 5,557 - -------------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------- - Total | 48,672 | 44,043 | 18,812 | 15,321 | 67,484 | 59,364 - - -------------+--------+--------+-------- - | | | - | | | - Districts. | Births.| Mar. | Deaths. - | | | - -------------+--------+--------+-------- - Cape Town | 644 | 138 | 638 - Cape District| 123 | 28 | 98 - Stellenbosch | 296 | 102 | 189 - Worcester | 577 | 67 | 261 - Swellendam | 606 | 49 | 325 - George | 219 | 46 | 60 - Uitenhage | 300 | 60 | 81 - Albany | 177 | 34 | 89 - Somerset | 384 | 119 | 107 - Graff Reinet | 156 | 127 | 74 - -------------+--------+--------+-------- - Total | 3,482 | 770 | 1,922 - - Total 126,848 - Add for the army 2,500 - ------- - 129,348 - Add omissions, say 15,652 - ------- - Making a grand total of 145,000 - ------- - -This settlement, which was founded by the Dutch, under Governor -Riebeck, in 1652, contained in 1832 but a little upward of one hundred -and forty thousand, there not being so many inhabitants as there are -in the city of New York or Philadelphia, whereas the first English -settlement of Puritans, which landed in New England but thirty-two -years previous, now numbers upward of two millions, and the United -States not less than fifteen millions. The Dutch held it from 1692 -to 1795, when it was placed under the protection of the British -government, by order of the prince of Orange. It was restored to the -Batavian government in the commencement of 1803. In January, 1806, it -capitulated to the English arms under General Sir D. Baird, and it is -now an integral part of the British empire. - -On a calm and beautiful morning, before the sun had tinged the -mountains of Hottentots' Holland, or Table mount, we were preparing for -a ride to the celebrated vineyard of Constantia and to Simon's town. -J. B. Ebden, Esq., Captain Geisinger and myself, went in an excellent -carriage, having six fine horses, accompanied by Captain Shields of the -Boxer, Lieut. Craver of the Peacock, Mr. Poor of the Boxer, &c., on -horseback. A pleasant ride of five miles brought us to the beautiful -village of Wynberg, passing on the right of the Devil's Peak. This -village is adorned with a great number of gentlemen's seats, and neat -cottages, the avenues leading to them having well-trimmed hedges of -myrtle and oak, and over shadowed by pine, oak or fruit trees, the -grounds being ornamented with flowers and shrubs, and the porches -shaded with luxuriant grape-vines. A small but very pretty new church, -belonging to the Episcopalians, graces a rising ground on the right. -We proceeded on about five miles further, where the road branches to -the left and to the right, the former being the direct road to Simon's -town, and the latter leading to Constantia, &c. We breakfasted at the -picturesque seat of the late Governor Cole, at Protea, with Mr. Scott -of Bengal. From thence we went about three miles out of the direct -road, passing the Newlands, a celebrated seat of a former governor, -Lord Somerset, who lavished some eighty thousand pounds sterling upon -it, at the expense of the British government. We passed through a noble -avenue of ancient oaks, which led to Great Constantia, where we found a -very substantial Dutch dwelling-house, having extensive out-buildings -on the right, with the wine-store in the rear. We were very kindly -and hospitably received, and treated to a taste of four kinds of very -old, rich wine, drawn out of some of the immense leaguers, which line -both sides of an extensive building. Every thing about the place is in -excellent order; the variety of fruits, flowers, shrubs and creeping -plants, and live hedges, made it truly enchanting. - -[Sidenote: CONSTANTIA.] - -A fine stream of water runs through it, from the range of mountains, -on the decline of which the vineyard is situated. From this estate -two other vineyards have been formed, viz.: high and low Constantia, -so called from their relative positions to the mountains. There is -a most commanding view from the upper garden, the mountains about -Hottentots' Holland, cape Hanglip and the range of mountains leading -towards the celebrated cape of Good Hope, as well as False bay and the -Indian ocean, and had we ascended to the top of the mountains, which -overlook Constantia, about three thousand feet, we could have seen both -oceans at one view, the Indian and South Atlantic. The vines, which -were hanging thick with clusters of fruit, are kept as low as three -feet; only two fruit-bearing shoots of three eyes are left of the last -year's growth. The grapes are trodden out with the feet, as well as -pressed out, the former being preferred, as in ancient times. There was -but little to gratify the sight after leaving this hospitable place, -till our arrival at Simon's town. On the left is a low sandy isthmus, -(having on it many lagoons,) which connects the cape district with -Hottentots' Holland; it is about twelve miles in length, and separates -Table from False bay; there can be no doubt but that cape district was -once separated from the main land, and this plain was formed by the -accumulation of sand, thrown in by the gales from the Atlantic and -Indian oceans. A few miserable hovels are scattered here and there, -over this dreary isthmus, and on the right toward the mountains, there -were a few ordinary cottages, and a solitary shepherd watching his -flock, but scarcely a tree was seen in any direction, excepting a few -Proteas, or those about the farm-houses. We wound round the base of -Mysenberg, which is about two thousand feet high, passing through a -dreary and uncomfortable looking fishing village of the same name. -Proceeding on, we came next to Fishhook bay, where there is a poor -village, having a small whaling establishment. At this place we came to -a low, sandy isthmus, which is mostly covered at high water, and leads -to Chapman's bay, on the west; this isthmus separates in nearly equal -divisions the northern from the southern range of mountains, they being -in length twenty-nine miles, from the Lion's Rump to the cape of Good -Hope. - -About two miles from the latter village is Elsey peak, about twelve -hundred feet high, round which the road passes, the base being washed -by the sea, and then we came to the bay and village of the same name, -having another small whaling establishment; but the inhabitants had -shaken hands with poverty, and these three villages are evidently fast -going to ruin. Two miles further brought us to Simon's town; it was -suddenly presented to our view on winding round the base of a mountain, -with its naval arsenal and pretty white houses, having altogether a -neat and cheerful appearance. A frigate, a merchant-ship and a sheer -hulk, were riding quietly at anchor on the glassy bosom of the bay. We -stopped at a neat hotel, and after a visit to Admiral F. Warren and -family, by whom we were very kindly and hospitably received, we visited -the arsenal, this being the cape rendezvous for British ships-of-war on -this station, and found every thing in fine order and well arranged, -viz.: suits of sails, boats, blocks, rigging, masts, chain and hemp -cables, anchors, &c.; all in readiness for use from a seventy-four-gun -ship to a sloop. The streets were in good order, and the houses very -convenient and well built of stone or brick, and stuccoed, and the -whole aspect of the place was favourable, and had an air of comfort -and cleanliness, although bounded by barren, woodless and precipitous -mountains and hills, with only here and there a few scattered fruit or -forest trees about private enclosures. The town is represented to have -a population of one thousand seven hundred inhabitants. - -False bay is easy of access to vessels of the greatest depth of water, -having but few dangers and those visible. No harbour can surpass that -of Simon's bay in point of security, having a sufficient depth of water -for ships of any burden; the winds may be said never to blow from the -east, which is the only point from which vessels are exposed. The winds -most prevalent in False bay, are from the southeast, and Simon's bay is -completely sheltered from their violence; and in the winter from the -north, which does not affect vessels materially, which are properly -secured. Boats can always land, and refreshments of all kinds may be -had, excellent fresh beef and mutton, and salted cape beef, with -bread, biscuit, vegetables, wine, butter, &c., &c. - -The bay abounds with fish, and if there is any deficiency of articles -in the town, they may always be procured from Cape Town by the wagons. -Horses and carriages are always to be had, and the mail runs twice a -week to the capitol, during the warm months, and three times during the -cool part of the season; the distance is twenty-one miles. Within the -district there are plenty of cattle, and sheep, and wheat raised, and -wine and brandy made in abundance. It is every way a most convenient -and safe port for refreshments, and to repair vessels, and a most -desirable haven for shelter to the way-worn mariner, who has been -buffeting the storms of winter about this "cape of torments." Our -return occupied the space of three hours, and was performed by the same -set of horses throughout, with perfect ease. - -[Sidenote: PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.] - -The following public institutions are established at Cape Town: -The _South African library_, in a building at one end of the Grand -Parade, is at once the pride and boast of the colony. It contains -about ten thousand volumes in all departments of literature, and is -highly creditable to the place. The South African college, founded -in 1829, is spoken of in high terms by the inhabitants, although a -large portion of the sons of wealthy parents are sent to England to -complete their education. It has a professor of classical and English -literature, as well as one for Dutch, and one for mathematics and the -principles of astronomy. It has also a Dutch assistant and teacher of -German, an English assistant, a mathematical assistant, writing-master, -and drawing-master. There is also a society for promoting Christian -knowledge, a philanthropic society for the diminution of slavery -in the colony, and a royal observatory, having an astronomer, an -assistant-astronomer, and a chronometer and instrument maker; a Bible -union instituted in 1818; a South African infant school; a savings -bank; a South African literary and scientific institution, to which -is attached an excellent museum; a medical society, a "European and -burial society;" this society was formed in 1795, for supporting poor -and unfortunate fellow-countrymen, during their illness, and in the -event of their death, to cause them to be respectably interred. It is -a Dutch institution, and now possesses considerable funds. A "Saint -Andrews," friendly society, for the benefit of the Scotch, founded in -1820, to afford relief in sickness, and medical assistance. A widows' -and old women's fund; a widows' private fund to afford relief to the -widows of deceased members; a South African missionary society; a -London missionary society, established in 1795; a Wesley missionary -station society for Southern Africa. The school of industry, for -the instructing female children of all denominations in reading and -needlework; there is also a Sunday school attached to it. There are -also a ladies' benevolent society, an English choral society, and eight -Sunday schools. - -The commercial exchange is a handsome commodious edifice, having -a lofty and spacious centre-hall: the tables are furnished with -newspapers, and there is a good supply of mercantile works of reference -with maps, &c. Most of the public meetings are held here; the north -wing is used by the South African public library; a masonic hall is -held in another room, and it has a ball-room, fifty-eight feet by -twenty-four. - -There are also a _colonial insurance company_ and an _agricultural -society_, which are likely to be highly useful, not only to Cape Town -but the whole colony, branches being already established in most of -the districts. There are a temperance society, having nine branches, -in almost every district; an _orphan house_, and two "_free schools_," -besides other institutions. There is an English church now building, -called St. George's church, at a probable expense of sixteen thousand -pounds sterling; the Rev. George Hough is the chaplain; the service is -at present performed in the Dutch reformed church, at noon, after the -Dutch society has retired. The new church is calculated to hold one -thousand persons, of which three hundred seats are reserved for the -poor. A Lutheran church: St. Andrew's church (Presbyterian:) a Roman -Catholic chapel, and a Wesleyan and Methodist chapel, &c., &c. - -There are four newspapers printed in the colony, three at Cape Town and -one at Graham's town, the Government Gazette being one of them. There -has also been published since June, 1830, a monthly publication called -the Cape of Good Hope Literary Gazette; each number contains twelve -quarto pages. It is a most respectable periodical, and contains a great -deal of original matter, on general and local topics: it is independent -in its tone, liberal in its doctrines, and deserving of encouragement. -The "South African Almanac and Directory," for 1833, possesses very -high merit, and I am deeply indebted to it, for no inconsiderable -portion of statistical matter, &c., relative to the colony of the cape -of Good Hope. - -[Sidenote: MUSEUM.] - -Attached to the South African literary and scientific institution -is a museum; no museum I have yet seen, will compare with this, in -the superior arrangement of the birds and beasts; nothing can be in -finer order than the first: it would require many years of study and -observation, and a fine tact, to be able to arrange them in their -natural state as they are--to catch, in fact, the "living beauty," -when sporting among the wilds of his native bowers. There are many -hundreds in the highest state of preservation; the beauty of their -plumage is unsurpassed. There is also a small but valuable collection -of shells, minerals, fossils, coral, sponge, &c., &c. A French -gentleman is the artist, the preserver and arranger of this beautiful -museum. I regretted much, that an hour was all I had to devote to these -beautifully arranged objects of nature. There are a noble lion and a -lioness at the upper end of the public garden, belonging to government. -There were for sale in Cape Town a number of zebras from the Snow-berg -mountains; these were in fine order and appeared to be very tractable, -and several were mounted without any difficulty. This animal is so -well known that it is unnecessary to attempt giving any description -of it; their coats were in such good order, and the yellow ground and -black stripes so bright, distinct, and perfect, that one can scarcely -believe it is other than a work of man's fancy; it differs from the -zebra of the plains, by having black rings upon the legs. The price was -ninety pounds sterling per pair; they are built very compactly, and -are said to be a very hardy animal; there was an "_ant bear_," but it -differed materially from one I saw at Buenos Ayres; the body and nose -of the latter were longer, and the bristles on the back also of greater -length, and more rigid and wiry: he was very harmless, and suffered -any one to handle him: a spring-bock-springer, antelope, or showy-bock -was also for sale: he had a cavity about the lower part of the rump, -adjoining the tail, the hair being quite white: when he bounded in the -air this spot dilated by the effort, and closed again on descending. -The above animals, as well as birds, reptiles, &c., were for sale by -Mr. Reid, in Roland street--a "collector of curiosities" as he styles -himself on his card. - -Mr. Villet in Long street has a very great collection of animals living -and dead: the living ones are at his garden at Green Point. He is also -a nursery seedsman and florist: prepares birds, skins, insects, &c. -There are many other "collectors of curiosities." The enormous prices -paid by the English generally, put all the traders on the frontier upon -the "qui vive;" and the shell-collectors at Table and Simon's bay, &c., -find a ready sale and high prices for paper-nautilus, beautiful limpits -in great variety, as well as scaly chitons, &c. - -Dr. Smith has in his possession a stuffed Hottentot woman, formerly a -well-known notoriously bad character in Cape Town; she was skinned in -a very complete manner, excepting the head, hands and feet, the fleshy -part being taken away, and then preserved and stuffed and placed in -a standing position; it is almost the first attempt ever made: the -features are the same as when living: she was about thirty years of -age, of middle height, and well made, having close set and small tufted -twists of hair; apparently no bridge to the nose, thin lips, with -the extraordinary projection behind, which is common to her nation. -The Hottentots are unquestionably a distinct race, from the rest of -mankind, with the peculiarities well known. - -There is a race-course at Green point; the horses have a high -celebrity for swiftness, strength and beauty. It has been found that -the racehorses imported from England cannot compete with them. It is -probable they never fully recover from the fatigues of a tedious voyage. - -The oil which is preferred, is taken from the top of the tail of the -cape sheep; it burns without smoke or smell. The acorns are preserved -in fresh water, and the cattle fed on them as well as grass. - -There are regular mails to twenty-five different towns. The rate -of postage for a single letter, is from twopence to thirteen pence -sterling. - -There are stationed within the colony three regiments of soldiers, -the seventy-second Highlanders, the ninety-fifth and seventy-fifth -regiments; the two first named are at Cape Town and vicinity, the -seventy-second being stationed in various parts of the colony. I will -only say they are in the finest order possible, and the officers of the -royal artillery and royal engineers, are gentlemen that would honour -any situation in which they might be placed. - -Robbin island is low land, raised but a few feet above the level of -the sea, and can only be seen at a short distance, lying parallel with -the main and devoid of trees. It seems on the first view to be a part -of the continent; it is the Botany bay of the cape, and has a small -garrison; there is a good anchorage on the southeastern side, and a -safe passage between it and the continent. - -[Sidenote: EXPEDITION TO AFRICA.] - -There is an expedition preparing for discoveries in the interior of -Africa, to consist of about forty persons, under the direction of a -most worthy and scientific man, Dr. A. Smith. It was to leave Graff -Reinet, being the most convenient place of rendezvous, on the first of -June, 1834. At that place there can easily be procured oxen, wagons and -attendants. It is in contemplation to penetrate as far as the equator, -in a northeasterly direction, but the course will be varied according -to circumstances; the time it will occupy will probably be two years. -The objects in view are to enlarge the geographical knowledge of the -extensive and unknown regions to the northward of this settlement, to -obtain scientific information, especially as it regards the branches -of meteorology, geology and magnetism; to collect botanical specimens, -and those of natural history, and to ascertain what prospects the -productions of the country, and the disposition of the native tribes, -hold out to commercial enterprise, are the chief aims of the intended -experiment. There is to be a botanist, a surveyor and a draftsman, -capable of delineating landscape and portraying objects of natural -history, and a person capable of conducting the trading department -of the expedition. It seems there are to be seven wagons, with one -European, and four Hottentots, to each, and one hundred and twenty -crew, and it is probable that two sergeants and ten soldiers will -be added to the number. The cost of the expedition will amount, -probably, to not less than two thousand pounds, exclusive of the -necessary instruments, maps, &c. Lieutenant Edie of the ninety-eighth -regiment will assume the command, in case of accident to Dr. Smith. -Both of these gentlemen lately returned from a journey to Natal. May -every success attend so laudable an undertaking: it is fraught with -innumerable dangers, from sickly climates, _savage_ beasts, and still -more savage men. - -It is in contemplation to build a break-water, into the bay, commencing -near the Chavonne battery, and a survey has been completed. If a double -railway is made from the quarries on the side of the hill called -the Lion's Rump, which is at a very short distance, the full cars on -descending could be made to return the empty, and then it would be done -at a small expense, considering the importance of the object. - -On the twenty-first, our stock of provisions being replenished, we took -leave of our hospitable friends. The ship tacked and stood in shore, -and then tacked again and stood off, the main-topsail being aback; a -salute of twenty-one guns was fired, the English flag being hoisted at -the main. The compliment was returned by the castle, the ship "filled -away," and we passed between Robbin island and the main, owing to the -wind being light, from the northward and westward. The convict-houses -on the island are on the eastern side. The neatness of the officers' -quarters and the soldiers' barracks, gave some relief to a very barren -spot. The verdant vine-fields, the pleasant town, and the cloud-capped -Table mount, gradually receded from our view, as we approached the -land about Saldanha bay. The weather was fine, the temperature of the -air was delightful; a smooth sea, with light breezes, accompanied us -to the coast of Brazil, so that the smallest boat in the ship could -have performed the passage with perfect ease and safety. We did not -attempt to make much westing until the ship had arrived in the latitude -of about eighteen, and in the longitude of about eight west, owing to -the baffling and uncertain winds which are always experienced in a -higher latitude, as an approach is made toward the sea, midway between -the two continents, and toward the coast of America. And we derived -but little benefit from northerly and westerly currents, which only -assisted us about one hundred and fifty miles. On the seventeenth -January, (1834,) we once more were _blessed_ with the sight of "Lord -Hood's gigantic nose," and the Vac d'Assucar, and anchored the next -morning in Rio harbour. Having been deprived nearly twenty months of -letters from home, great anxiety was expressed by all for the return -of the boat, which had been despatched on shore and to the Natchez to -procure them--hopes and fears rushed on the fancy of all, as the return -boat approached the ship--the budget at length arrived, and was opened -and distributed, the seats torn asunder, and the contents read with the -utmost rapidity, and in a few minutes the delightful sound that "all's -well" was heard from the cabin to the ward-room, and from the steerage -to the berth, gun, and spar decks, repaying all for the thousand -perils they had encountered from stormy oceans, treacherous reefs, and -baneful climates. Such is the delight most painfully earned by a long, -protracted absence from our country, and our friends. - -The Boxer having parted company soon after leaving Table bay, and -keeping more to the westward than the Peacock, caused a delay of two -days in her passage beyond ours. I remained at Rio until the arrival -from "the river" of the Lexington, commanded by Captain M'Keever. - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL AT BOSTON.] - -Having taken leave of many worthy friends on board the Peacock, I -embarked on board the Lexington, and on the first day of March we -were cheered with the welcome sound of the first lieutenant's voice, -ordering the capstan bars to be manned. The band immediately struck up -the cheering tune of "Homeward bound," the capstan bars flew round like -a top, and in a few minutes, the ponderous anchor was at the bows, and -as we "filled away," every countenance seemed exultingly to say, "Our -next anchorage ground will be within sight of home, and friends, and -our dear native shore." Light and unfavourable winds annoyed us for -the first fortnight, until we stretched as far to the eastward as 28°, -and latitude 19°, when the northeasterly wind began to prevail more -steadily. On the twenty-seventh day, we crossed the equator and passed -between cape St. Roque and the island of Fernand de Noronha. The whole -passage was marked with light winds, until we arrived in the latitude -of Bermudas, when strong gales from the northward caused us to suffer -severely from the cold. On the twenty-fourth of April we caught the -first sight of land at cape Cod, and that evening, after "battling the -watch" all day with a furious northwester off cape Ann, we put into -Boston harbour and anchored near the light-house. On quitting the ship -and her worthy commander and officers, the next morning, the music -played, "Home, Sweet Home," which I was upon the eve of visiting, after -a painful absence of twenty-six months. - - _A Table, showing the names of the various places visited in - rotation, on board the United States ships-of-war, Peacock and - Lexington, from the eighth of March, 1832, to the twenty-fourth of - April, 1834; together with the distances between each place, and - the number of days at sea._ - - --------------------------------------------------------------------- - | |Distance | Number - From | To | in miles | of days - | |per log. | at sea. - -----------------+-----------------------------+----------+---------- - Boston | Port Praya | 3,672 | 31 - Port Praya | Rio de Janeiro | 2,641 | 22 - Rio Janeiro | Montevideo | 1,159 | 13 - Montevideo | Buenos Ayres | 110 | 2 - Buenos Ayres | Montevideo | 133 | 3 - Montevideo | Bencoolen | 9,215 | 63 - Bencoolen | Crokatoa and Angier | 593 | 9 - Angier | Manila | 1,631 | 19 - Manila |{ Macao }Canton | 589 | 7 - |{ Linting } | | - Linting | Phuyen bay and Cochin-China| 718 | 7 - Phuyen bay | Siam | 950 | 10 - Siam | Singapore | 1,028 | 25 - Singapore | Batavia | 920 | 26 - Batavia | Angier | -- | 2 - Angier | Red Sea | 4,694 | 38 - Red Sea | Persian Gulf | 1,416 | 17 - Muscat | Quintangony and Mozambique | 2,782 | 30 - Mozambique | Cape of Good Hope | 2,306 | 24 - Cape of Good Hope| Rio de Janeiro | 3,673 | 27 - |----------+---------- - Peacock, miles | 38,230 | 370 days. - Lexington, from Rio de Janeiro to } | | - Boston } | 6,948 | 54 do. - |----------+---------- - Whole _distance_ of miles, exclusive} | 45,178 | 424 do. - of currents } | | - - - - -APPENDIX. - - -_State of Commerce in the year 1833, at Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; -Condensed and brought into Form from Various Documents._ - -There _arrived_ 1704 national vessels, and _departed_ 1629; and -_arrived_ 696 foreign vessels, and _departed_ 617. - -The _exports_ consisted of the following articles, viz.:-- - - Valuation. - Coffee, 577,764 bags and barrels 10,494,576 000 - Sugar, 15,000 boxes, 11,204 barrels, - and 7,217 bags 1,459,513 500 - Hides, 187,530 754,048 880 - Horns, 380,242 48,922 340 - Rice, 14,248 bags 80,276 000 - Rum, 3,492 pipes 192,928 000 - Tobacco, 15,919 rolls 158,584 500 - Ipecacuanha, 458 barrels and bundles 59,880 000 - Tapioca, 937 barrels and bags 3,002 000 - Cotton, 196 bales 1,488 000 - Timber, 1,633 dozens 40,860 000 - Tanned half hides, 5,210 20,987 000 - Gold, diamonds, &c. 2,400,000 000 - -------------- - Valued at 15,715,060 820 - -------------- - Mil Reis. Rs. - The _imports_ were valued at 16,560,372 752 - The _revenue_ amounted to the sum of 4,847,952 550 - -There were imported 184,000 barrels of flour, including 13,000 barrels -on hand, on the first of January; and there were exported 48,500; and -there were on hand, the first of January, 1834, 35,000, which gave -100,500 barrels consumed--164,185 barrels were imported from the United -States, and 6,815 barrels from Europe and elsewhere. - -The number of foreign vessels despatched during the year, were 565, -measuring 149,746 tons, of which, - - 208 were English, measuring 53,985 tons. - 167 " American " 50,410 " - 7 " Austrian " 1,771 " - 5 " Belgian " 1,149 " - 16 " Danish " 4,688 " - 26 " French " 7,252 " - 6 " Spanish " 1,059 " - 3 " Dutch " 1,225 " - 13 " Hamburgh " 3,919 " - 6 " Montevideo " 1,054 " - 4 " Neapolitan " 815 " - 40 " Portuguese " 7,327 " - 26 " Sardinian " 5,661 " - 21 " Swedish " 5,496 " - 2 " Tuscan " 382 " - 2 " Russian " 1,366 " - 3 " Bremen " 904 " - 1 " Roman " 158 " - 9 " Argentine " 1,116 " - -There were shipped, by American vessels to the United States, 236,708 -bags of coffee, and to Europe, 67,043 bags; making 303,751 bags, &c., -which is upward of one half of the whole quantity exported. - -Production of coffee throughout the world, in 1833:-- - - Pounds. - - Brazil 92,432,240 - Java 40,000,000 - Rest of India and Arabia 30,000,000 - Cuba 50,000,000 - Porto Rico 15,000,000 - St. Domingo 40,000,000 - British West Indies 20,000,000 - French " 15,000,000 - Dutch " 10,000,000 - Spanish " 10,000,000 - ----------- - Total pounds 322,432,240 - -Consumption of coffee in 1833, copied from an Antwerp newspaper:-- - - Pounds. - Low Countries 90,000,000 - Germany and the Baltic 70,000,000 - Spain, Portugal, and the Mediterranean 65,000,000 - England and Ireland 25,000,000 - France 24,000,000 - United States 80,000,000 - ----------- - 354,000,000 - ----------- - - Pounds. - In 1830, Brazil produced 391,785 bags 62,685,600 - " 1831, " " 430,672 " 68,907,530 - " 1832, " " 513,296 " 82,127,360 - " 1833, " " 577,764 " 92,432,240 - -Being an increase of nearly fifty per cent., from 1830 to 1833. - -Coffee consumed in the world:-- - - Tons. - The consumption in Great Britain, is about 10,000 - " " France " 20,000 - " " Netherlands " 40,000 - " " Spain and Portugal " 10,000 - " " Germany and the Baltic " 32,000 - " " United States " 15,000 - ------- - 127,000 - -This quantity is produced as follows:-- - - British West India Islands 13,390 - Java 20,000 - Cuba 15,000 - St. Domingo 16,000 - Dutch West India Colonies 5,000 - French ditto and Bourbon 8,000 - Brazil and S. Main 32,000 - ------- - 109,390 - -Population of Brazil in 1819, continued:-- - - Whites 843,000 - Indians 259,400 - Free casts 426,000 - Ditto blacks 150,500 - Black slaves 1,728,000 - --------- - 3,406,900 - --------- - - Produce: 100,000 cases sugar, of 15 qtt., of 128 pounds each. - 150,000 bales of cotton, 12,500,000 pounds. - Between 12 and 13 millions pounds of coffee. - - -[A] - -_Of the Aboriginal Inhabitants of the Malayan Peninsula, and -particularly of the Negroes called Semang._ - -This subject has afforded matter of curious and interesting -speculation, to several writers of modern date. Marsden, Leydon, -Raffles and Crawfurd have alternately bestowed a slight attention upon -it; but it is one which requires more minute investigation, and would -amply repay the labours of the philosopher. - -Of the _interior parts_ of the Malayan peninsula, which is the Suvarna -or Gold island, one of the three sacred isles of the Hindoos [a] and -the _grand depot_ for souls after death, [b] there is little known -even at the present day, and the researches which have hitherto been -made, regarding the Aboriginals of this portion of the East, have as -yet been exceedingly defective, and unattended with any satisfactory -result. "In our present state of knowledge," as a late author observes, -"I fear we must pronounce that the origin of the nations which inhabit -the Indian islands seems buried in unfathomable obscurity, and hardly -appears less mysterious than that of indigenous plants and animals of -the country they inhabit." [c] Mr. Marsden, in the introduction to -his Malayan grammar, has quoted the opinion of Sir S. Raffles, (then -Mr. Raffles, secretary to the governor of Prince of Wales island,) -who published a paper on the Malay nation, in the twelfth volume of -the Asiatic Researches, relative to the Aborigines of the peninsula. -"The Malays," observes this author, "seem to have occupied a country -previously unappropriated, for, if we except an inconsiderable race -of Caffrees who are occasionally found near the mountains, and a few -tribes of the Orang-Benua, there does not exist a vestige of a nation -anterior to the Malays in the whole peninsula. As the population of the -peninsula has excited much interest, my attention has been particularly -directed to the various tribes stated to be scattered over the country. -Those on the hills are usually called Semang and are woolly headed; -those on the plains, Orang-Benua, or people belonging to the country; -the word Benua being applied by the Malays to any extensive country, -as Benua China, Benua Kling, but it appears to be only a sort of Malay -plural to the Arabic word Ben or Beni, signifying a tribe." [d] This -hypothesis, however, is satisfactorily confuted by Marsden, who asserts -that Benua is a genuine Malay word signifying country, region, land, -and that a slight variation of the word, as Whennua or Fennua is -found in the Bisagan dialects of the Philippines, and the languages -of the South Sea islands, bearing a precisely similar signification. -In my inquiries among the Malays, I have not been able, however, to -discover that the term Orang-Benua (which is literally Aborigines -or people of the land) is ever applied to any particular race of -the Malayan peninsula, the supposed Aboriginal tribes being styled -Sakei or Orang-Bukit, Orang-Laut or Semang. According to the Malayan -legends, indeed, there is a race of wild people said to be found in -the interior of Buman, the boundary between the states of Perak and -Salengore, designated Tuah-Benua [e] by the Salagorians, and known at -Quedah by the name of Mawas. They are represented as bearing a strong -resemblance to the Mawa or long-armed gibbon, and instead of having -a bone in the lower part of the arm, they have a piece of sharp iron -which serves the double purpose of an arm and a cleaver for cutting -wood. There is another savage race, according to the Malays, called -Bilian, who are covered with hair, and have nails of extraordinary -length. Their principal occupation is said to be tending the tigers, -which are their peculiar flock, as the buffaloes are of the Malays. In -rainy nights, they are represented by the Malays as sometimes coming -to their residence and demanding fire, which those who are acquainted -with their savage disposition, hand them upon the point of a sumpit -or arrow tube, or at the extremity of a sword; as were the person to -present it with his hand, he would inevitably be seized and devoured by -the savage monster, a fate, which the credulous Malay firmly believes, -has befallen many. It is admirable how the Mahometans of the present -day even, assign to these regions inhabitants so aptly coinciding with -the mythological superstitions of the Hindoos. Fitter subjects could -not indeed be attributed to the sovereign of darkness, whose abode -is said to be in the peninsula of Malacca, than the Mawas and Bilian -races above described; whose appearance is quite consistent with what -some intelligent Christians even, consider as the imps of the infernal -regions, and it is still more remarkable that the supposed residence of -the Mawa species is, according to the Malays, in the very neighbourhood -of the city of the Hindoos, yama-pari, or the _grand depot_ for _souls_ -after death. Another circumstance deserving of notice is, that the -Menang-Kebans of Sumatra, supposed to be the primitive Malays, "deduce -their origin from two brothers named Perapati See Batang and Kei -Tumunggungan, who are described as being among the forty companions of -Noah in the ark, and whose landing at Palembang, or at a small islet -near it named Lauha Pura, (probably the small island of Lucepara) is -attended with the circumstance of the dry land being first discovered -by the resting upon it of a bird (Perapati is literally a pigeon) that -flew from _the vessel_. From thence they proceeded to the mountain -named Sigantang-Gantang, and afterward to Priangan in the neighbourhood -of the great volcano, which at this day is spoken of as the capital -of Menang-Kaban." [f] There is a mountain called Gunon-Gantang in -the Perak country, the supposed Yama-puri, and what is still more -extraordinary, the king of Perak, in opposing the claims of the Siamese -to a Boonga-Mas or Golden Flower, in a letter to a friend, says, "I am -he who holds the royal sword and the dragon Betel Stand, and the shell -fish which came out of the sea, which came from the hill of Segantang." -I do not profess myself to be sufficiently conversant with the subject, -to reason farther on this singular coincidence, but it appears to me -that many curious inferences might be drawn from it, and I shall leave -the matter for the investigation of a more scientific pen. - -[a] Sir S. Raffles remarks: "Farther investigation may, perhaps, -establish Java and Sumatra, or rather the Malayan ports, (in which -general term, we may include all the islands containing the Malayan -ports,) as not only the Taprobane or Taprovana of the ancients, but -also the sacred isles of the Hindoos." See History of Java, vol. i., -page 5. - -[b] "As Ptolemy places Ma-Lancapuri in the same longitude with the -Pauranies, he must have used the same data, which he had, probably, -received from the Hindoos, whom he conversed with at Alexandria. -Ma-Lanca being, according to the Pauranies, in the centre of the -peninsula, it must be of course in about four degrees of latitude -north, and there it is placed by Abul Fayil, and in 4°. 20´, by -Ptolemy. Ma-Lanca is called, in the Pauranies, Yamala and Malaya, which -last denomination it still retains. It is styled also Chanchan-apuda, -or with the Golden Skirts. It may be translated the country of the -Golden Feet, a title assumed by the emperor of Ava, and other kings -of that part of the world: and the Malayan _breeze_ is as famous in -the East, as the _Sabaean_ in the west, and its capital was also -called Saba or Zaba. In the beginning of the Brahmanda-purans, it is -declared, that the stronghold of Yama Tri-_cuta_, that is to say, the -peninsula of Malacca, is one hundred yo-janas long, and thirty broad, -which is sufficiently accurate. Ptolemy mentions, there is a place, -called Malaioncolou, probably, from the Sanscrit, Malaya-Culum, which -implies a place on the borders or shores of Malaya; the same is called -Maletur by Marco Polo; Malayatir and Malaya-Culom, are synonymous.[A] -It is singular, that the city of Canca-Nagera, or Ma-Lancapuri, is -placed by Ptolemy in the exact latitude of the river Dinding, in the -Perak territory, (which is known as the _Temala_, or Land of Tin, -of the same author,) and which is, no doubt, the same city alluded -to in the Sejara Malaya, or Malayan Annals, written in the year of -the Hajeirat, 1021, or a little more than two centuries ago. It is -therein mentioned, that Rajah Suran Padshah, (said to be a descendant -of Alexander the Great,) formed the design of subjugating China, and -for this purpose his men-at-arms, and the rajahs dependant on him, -assembled from every quarter, with their hosts, to the number of one -thousand and two lacs. With this prodigious host, he advanced against -China, and in his course, forests were converted into open plains--the -earth shook, and the thickets moved--the lofty grounds became level, -and the rocks flew off in shivers, and the large rivers dried up. -Two months he marched on without delay, and the darkest night was -illuminated by the light of their armour, like the lustre of the full -moon; and the noise of the thunder could not be heard for the loud -noise of champions and warriors, mixed with the cries of the horses and -elephants. Every country which Rajah Suran approached, he subdued and -reduced under his subjection, till at last he approached the country of -Gangga Nagara, the rajah of which was named Ganggi Shah Juana, which -city is situated on a hill of very steep approach in front, but of -easy access in the rear.[B] Its fort was situated on the banks of the -river Dinding, in the vicinity of Perak." It is also worthy of notice, -that there are two rivers under this mountain, which bear the name of -Sangah Kechil and Sangah Besar, or the small and great Laugah. It will -also be observed, by a reference to any of the charts of the straits -of Malacca, that there is an island, called Callum, or Collong, which -forms the straits of the same name, and which are about a day's sail -from the Dindings. There is a river of the same name on the main, from -which much tin is exported, and which is, perhaps, the Malaion-Colon of -Ptolemy, and Malaya-Culum of the Sanscrit, notwithstanding the powerful -arguments against such a supposition. It must not be omitted to notice -besides, that there is another river to the southward of Colong, called -Langar, which bears such a striking affinity to Lanca. An intelligent -author (Mr. Crawford) asserts, that 'The word Kolon is, without any -alteration, Javanese, and means the west, and the compound word, -Malayu-Kolon, exactly in the order in which it stands, means, 'Malays -of the west;' and there is an unanswerable objection against supposing -Malayu-Kolon to be on the Malayan peninsula, or supposing this to be -the Golden Chersonesus or Khruse, at all, which will occur at once to -every one familiar with the well-known history of the Malays. It is -this--in the age of Ptolemy, and for many ages after it, the Malayan -peninsula was uninhabited, or inhabited only by a few negro savages, -resembling the cannibals of Andaman, wretched beings, with whom there -could have been no intercourse, or at least no commerce. Malays did not -emigrate from Sumatra, their parent-country, and settle in the Malayan -peninsula, until the comparatively modern period of 1160, a thousand -years after the time of Ptolemy, while Malacca was not founded until -1252, and every other Malay state, on the peninsula, is of a still more -recent foundation.'--History of the Archipelago, vol. iii. p. 190, 191. - -[A] Major Milford's Essay on Asiatic Researches, vol. x., pp. 144, 145, -146, 147. - -[B] Forrest alludes to a remarkable mountain in this quarter: "Gunang -Jantong, hanging hill, is remarkable, near Laroot river." - -[c] Crawford's Archipelago, vol. i. p. 36. - -[d] We are informed by Marsden, that the Sumatrans are firmly persuaded -that various particular persons are what they term "betuah," (sacred, -invulnerable, not liable to accident.) The belief which prevails -in that island, however, among the Malays, of the transmigration -of souls, does not extend to the Malays of the peninsula, who have -spirits and imaginary beings of their own, among which we may safely -reckon the Mawas and Bilian. Mr. Marsden says of the Sumatrans: "They -have an imperfect notion of a metempsychosis, but not in any degree -systematic, nor considered as an article of religious faith. Popular -stories prevail among them, of such a particular man being changed -into a tiger, or other beast. They seem to think, indeed, that tigers, -in general, are actuated with the spirits of departed men, and no -consideration will prevail on a countryman to catch or to wound one, -but in self-defence, or immediately after the act of destroying a -friend or relation. They speak of them with a degree of awe, and -hesitate about calling them by their common name, (ariman or machang,) -terming them respectfully sewa, the wild animals, or even nenck, -(ancestors,) as really believing them such, or by way of soothing them, -as our ignorant country-folks call the fairies 'the good people.'" - -[e] In the history of Sumatra, there is a description of two races -of wild people on that island, called Orang Kubu and Orang Gugu; the -latter of whom seems to correspond with the description of the Bilian -of the peninsula. "In the course of my inquiries among the natives," -observes Mr. Marsden, "concerning the Aborigines of the island, I have -been informed of two different species of people, dispersed in the -woods, and avoiding all communication with other inhabitants. These -they call Orang Kubu and Orang Gugu. The former are said to be pretty -numerous, especially in that part of the country which lies between -Palembang and Jambi. Some have, at times, been caught, and kept as -slaves, in Labun; and a man of that place is now married to a tolerably -Kubu girl, who was carried off by a party that discovered their huts. -They have a language quite peculiar to themselves, and they eat -promiscuously whatever the woods afford, as deer, elephants, wild hogs, -snakes, or monkeys. The Gugu are much scarcer than these, differing in -little, but the use of speech, from the Orang Utau of Borneo, their -bodies being covered with long hair. There have not been above two or -three instances of their being met with by people of Labun, (from whom -any information is derived,) and one of these was entrapped many years -ago, in much the same manner as the carpenter, in Pelpay's fables, -caught the monkey. He had children by a Labun woman, which also were -more hairy than the common race, but the third generation are not to -be distinguished from others. The reader will bestow what measure of -faith he thinks due to this relation, the veracity of which I do not -pretend to vouch for. It has, probably, some foundation in truth, but -is exaggerated in the circumstances."--See History of Sumatra, p. 41. - -[f] See History of Sumatra, pp. 332, 333. - -At Perak, the principal tin country of the peninsula, there are two -distinct races of wild people in the interior, the one called Semang, -resembling those of Quedah in personal appearance, but speaking a -different dialect, somewhat more civilized, and fond of collecting -silver and gold, with which they ornament their spears and knives, -which they obtain in exchange for the products of the wood; the others -are called Orang-Sakei by some, and Orang-Bukit or hill-people by -others. [g] They are much darker complexioned than the Malays, but -fairer than the Semangs, and speak a distinct language of their own. -They are not so timid as the Semangs, and sometimes come down to the -Malayan villages to amuse the inhabitants by their peculiar dances and -music. Their ordinary dress consists of pieces of bark beat out, tied -round their middle, but in their woods they are frequently met quite -naked. Both tribes are reported to be pretty numerous on the hills -which divide the Perak from the Patani states, and they are often -engaged in hostilities with each other. They are not so untractable as -the Semangs, and some of their children are trained up as domestics in -the Malayan families. - -[g] This race of people seem to correspond in their appearance and -habits with a tribe called Jokong, which Sir S. Raffles describes as -being found near Malacca, (Asiatic Researches, vol. xii., p. 109): -"I had an opportunity," remarks this author, in his paper on the -Malay nation, "of seeing two of these people, from a tribe in the -neighbourhood of Malacca; it consisted of about sixty people, and -the tribe was called Jakoons. These people, from their occasional -intercourse with the Malayan villages, dependant on Malacca, speak -the language well to be generally understood. They relate, that -there are two other tribes, the Orang Benna and the Orang Udai. The -former appears to be the most interesting, as composing the majority; -the latter is only another name for the Semang or Caffres. They are -not circumcised, and they appear to have received some instruction -regarding Nabi Isu, or as they pronounce it, Nabi Isher. They, -however, have no books, nor any word for God, whom they designate by -the Portuguese word Deos. The men are well formed, or rather short, -resembling the Malay in countenance, but having a sharper and smaller -nose. They marry but one wife, whether rich or poor, and appear to -observe no particular ceremony at their nuptials; the consent of the -girl and the parents being obtained, the couple are considered as man -and wife." - -The Orang-Laut is a race of people resembling the Malays in appearance, -who live almost entirely on the water; they are certainly the -Ichthyophagi of the East, and they subsist wholly upon fish. Dr. -Leyden supposes the Battas of Sumatra to be the Ichthyophagi described -by Herodotus; but there are several circumstances in his description -which would seem to contradict such a supposition. The same author -also, in alluding to the Batta Anthropophagi or cannibals of Sumatra, -says: [h] "This inhuman custom is not however without a precedent in -history, for Herodotus positively asserts that the Padang or Pedasi, -about five hundred years before our era, were not only addicted to the -eating of raw flesh, but accustomed to kill and eat their relations -when they grew old." Now it is curious that Batta or Battey, for the -name is written both ways, seems to be the very word which in Greek, -is rendered Padasi, the letter P being almost always pronounced B -among several of the Indo Chinese nations, as in the word Pali, which -is almost always pronounced Bali. The following is the account which -Herodotus gives us of the Paday or Padasi:--"Another Indian nation, who -dwell to the _eastward_ of these, (the Indian Ichthyophagi,) are of -Nomadic habits and eat raw flesh; they are called Paday and are said to -practise such customs as the following: whoever of the community, be he -man or woman, happens to fall sick, his most familiar friends, if it is -a man, kill him, saying, that by his pining in sickness, his _flesh_ -will be spoiled for them, and though he deny that he is sick, they do -not attend to him, but put him to death and feast on him. When a woman -falls sick, she is treated in like manner by her most intimate female -associates. They also sacrifice and feast on him who arrives at old -age, and this is the reason that so few ever attain it, for they kill -every one who falls sick, before that period." [i] Although this account -corresponds in some particulars with the habits of the Battas, yet it -differs materially in others. The Battas, it is well known, inhabit -the _central_ parts of Sumatra and but rarely approach the _seashore_; -they could not therefore be termed Ichthyophagi, as they scarcely _see -fish_. The Orang-Laut of the present day are not known to be addicted -to cannibalism, though it is extremely probable they were in former -times, as they _yet_ retain all the characteristics of the most savage -life. They rove about from one island to another, and are found in -greatest numbers about the Lancavy group of islands opposite Quedah, -and likewise in the straits of Singapore, Dryon, Banca and Belitong. -They subsist wholly by fishing, and are very expert at striking fish -with the spear; they live principally in small canoes: sometimes when -the weather is boisterous, or their little barks require repair, they -erect temporary huts on the seashore: they are almost all covered with -ring-worms and scorbutic eruptions, and have altogether a most squalid, -wretched look; they are sometimes, when chance throws them in the way -and they have become a little civilized, employed by the Malays to pull -an oar, at which from their continual practice, they are very expert; -"their religion is," (as Symes says of the Andamaners,) "the genuine -homage of nature," offering up a hasty petition to the sun and moon. -Of the origin of that most singular and curious race called Semang, -[j] the Malays possess no tradition: certain it is, however, that -the tribes of them which inhabited various parts on both sides of the -peninsula, were much more numerous before many of the Malayan colonies -were founded by emigrants from Sumatra. The Semangs are designated by -the Malays Semang Paya, Bukit, Bakow and Bila. The Semang Paya are -those who reside on the plains and borders of morasses; the Semang -Bukit whose abode is on the _hills_, and the Semang Bakow are so -called from their frequenting the _seashore_, and occasionally taking -up their quarters in the mangrove jungles; the Semang Bila are those -who have been somewhat reclaimed from their savage habits and have -had intercourse with the Malays. A similar race of people are said to -have formerly inhabited all the islands of the Archipelago, and small -parties are still to be found on many of them. To the eastward they -are called Dyake, and on the east coast of the Peninsula, Pangan. They -are at present most numerous in the interior of Jan, a small river to -the northward of Mirlow, near the lofty mountain Jerei, in the Quedah -territory. There are small parties also in the mountains inland of -Jooroo and Krian, opposite Pinang. Their huts are temporary dwellings, -(for they have no fixed habitations, and rove about like the beasts of -the forest,) consist of two posts stuck into the ground, with a small -cross-piece, and a few leaves or branches of trees laid over to secure -them from the weather; some of them indeed, in the thicker parts of the -forest, where the elephants, tigers, and other wild animals are most -abundant, make their temporary dwellings upon the cliffs, and branches -of the large trees; their clothing consists chiefly of the inner bark -of trees, having no manufactures of their own; a few who have ventured -to approach the Malayan villages, however, obtain a little cloth in -exchange for elephant's teeth, gahru, dammer and canes, which they -procure in the forest, but of the intrinsic value of which they possess -little knowledge, and are imposed upon by the crafty Malay. From the -Malays also, they procure their arms, knives and tobacco, of which -last they make great use; they in turn frequently impose upon the -superstitious Malays, when they have no products to barter and wish -to procure a supply of tobacco, by presenting them with the medicines -derived from particular shrubs and trees, which they represent as -efficacious for the cure of headaches and other complaints. The Semangs -subsist upon the birds and beasts of the forest and upon roots; they -eat elephants, rhinoceroses, monkeys, and rats, and with the exception -of the partial and scanty supplies which they obtain from the Malays, -they have no rice nor salt: they are very expert with the sompit, and -poison their darts with the ipoh, procured from the juice of various -trees, which are deadly poison; they handle the bow and spear with -wonderful dexterity, and destroy the largest and most powerful animals -by ingenious contrivances. They seldom suffer by beasts of prey, as -they are extremely sharpsighted, and as agile in ascending trees as -the monkeys. Their mode of destroying elephants, in order to procure -their ivory or their flesh, is most extraordinary and ingenious; small -parties of two and three lie in wait, when they perceive any elephants -ascend a hill, and as they descend again, (which they usually do at -a slow pace, plucking the branches as they move along,) while the -hind legs are lifted up, the Semang, cautiously approaching behind, -drives a sharp-pointed bambic or piece of weebong, which has been -previously well hardened in the fire, and touched with poison, into -the sole of the elephant's foot, with all his force, which effectually -lames the animal and most commonly causes him to fall, when the whole -party rush upon him with spears and sharp-pointed sticks, and soon -despatch him. The rhinoceros they obtain with even less difficulty. -This animal, which is of solitary habits, is found frequently in -marshy places, with its whole body immersed in mud, and part of the -head only projecting. The Malays call them bodak tapa, or the recluse -rhinoceros. Toward the close of the rainy season, they are said to bury -themselves in this manner in different places, and upon the dry weather -setting in, and from the powerful effects of a vertical sun, the mud -becomes hard and crusted, and the rhinoceros cannot effect its escape -without considerable difficulty and exertion; the Semangs then prepare -themselves with large quantities of combustible materials, with which -they quietly approach the animal, who is aroused from his revery by an -immense fire over him, which being kept well supplied with fresh fuel, -soon completes his destruction and renders him in a fit state to make a -meal of; the projecting horn on the snout is carefully preserved, being -supposed to be possessed of medical properties, and highly prized by -the Malays, to whom they barter it for tobacco and other articles. - -[h] On the language and literature of the Indu Chinese nations. (As. -Res. vol. 10, 202, 203.) - -[i] Herodotus, Lib. 3, s. 99. - -[j] Dr. Leyden, in his disquisition on the language and literature of -the East, makes mention of the negro-tribes as follows: "The Papuas, -termed by themselves Inglote, but by the Spaniards of the Philippine -islands, 'Nigritos del Monte,' from their colour of woolly hair, are -the second race of Aborigines in the Eastern isles, in several of -which they are still to be found, and in all which they seem to have -originally existed. Some of these divisions have formed small savage -states, and made some advances towards civilization; but the greater -part of them, even with the example of more civilized races before -their eyes, have betrayed no symptoms, either of a taste or capacity -for improvement, and continue in their primary state of nakedness, -sleeping on trees, devoid of houses or clothing, and subsisting on -the spontaneous products of the forest, or the precarious success -of their hunting and fishing. The Papuas, or Oriental negroes, seem -to be all divided into very small states, or rather societies, very -little connected with each other. Hence their language is broken into -a multitude of dialects, which, in process of time, by separation, -accident, and oral corruption, have nearly lost all resemblance. The -Malays of the peninsula consider the language of the blacks of the -hills as a mere jargon, which can only be compared to the chattering of -large birds, and the Papua dialects in many of the Eastern isles, are -generally viewed in the same light." See As. Res. vol. x. p. 218. - -A more simple and natural mode of bestowing names cannot well be -imagined, than that adopted by the Semangs: they are called after -particular trees: that is, if a child is born under or near a -cocoa-nut, or durian, or any particular tree in the forest, it is -named accordingly. They have chiefs among them, but all property -is in common; they worship the sun. Some years ago, I am told, the -bindahava or general of Quedah, sent two of these people for the -inspection of some of his English friends, at Penang; but shortly -after leaving Quedah, one of them, whose fears could not be appeased, -became very obstreperous, and endeavoured to upset the small boat, in -which they embarked; the Malays, therefore, with their usual apathy -and indifference about human life, put the poor creature to death, -and threw him overboard; the other arrived in safety, was kindly -treated, and received many presents of spades, hatchets, and other -implements, which he appeared to prize above every thing else. On his -return to Jan, he built himself a small hut, and began to cultivate -maize, sugar-cane, and yams, and it is said that he is still there, -and is a quiet inoffensive man. This man was, at the time of his visit -to Penang, according to report, about thirty years of age, four feet -nine inches in height: his hair was woolly and tufted, and of a glossy -jet-black; [k] his lips were thick, his nose flat, and belly very -protuberant, resembling exactly the natives of the Andaman islands. -The Semangs are found also at Tringand, on the eastern side of the -peninsula. I am informed by the Malays that the dialect of that tribe -is different from those of Quedah, but much the same as of those near -Malacca: they are not of such a jet-black, glossy appearance as the -Semangs from Quedah, nor as the Andamans. There is little doubt that -the degenerate inhabitants of the Andaman islands, in the bay of -Bengal, are descended from the same parent stock as the Semangs, and -it is extraordinary that they have preserved the same uniformity of -manners and habits, through such a series of ages. It will be seen by -a reference to the following specimen of the Semang language, that -there is a very material difference in many of the words collected by -Colonel M'Lunes, (late Malay translator at Penang,) from a Semang or -Jan, and published by Mr. Crawfurd, and those collected by Mr. Maingy, -the president of Province Wellesley, (government of Penang,) from the -Semang of Jooroo, and that the Andaman language bears no resemblance to -either. - -[k] "The East Insular Negro," says Crawford, "is a distinct variety -of the human species, and evidently a very inferior one. Their puny -stature and feeble frames cannot be ascribed to the poverty of their -food, or the hardships of their condition, for the lank-haired -races, living under circumstances equally precarious, have vigorous -constitutions. Some islands they enjoy almost exclusively to -themselves, yet they have in no instance ever risen above the most -abject state of barbarism. Wherever they are encountered by the fair -races, they are hunted down like wild animals of the forest, and driven -to the mountains and fastnesses, incapable of resistance." (Crawford's -Archipelago, vol., i. p. 26.) Sir Everard Home gives the following -description of a Papua negro, carried to England by Sir S. Raffles, -Hist. of Java, vol. ii., Appendix, p. 235: "The Papua differs from the -African negro in the following particulars: his skin is of a lighter -colour, the woolly hair grows in small tufts, and each hair has a -spiral twist. The forehead is higher, and the hind head is not so much -cut off. The nose projects more from the face, the upper lip is longer -and more prominent, the lower lip projects forward from the lower jaw -to such an extent that the chin forms no part of the face, the lower -part of which is formed by the mouth; the buttocks are so much lower -than the negro as to form a striking mark of distinction, but the calf -of the leg is as high as in the negro." - - -_Specimens of the Semang Language in two Dialects, and of the Andaman._ - - English. Semang Jooroo. Sensing Jan or Andaman. - Quedah. - - Earthquake Talila - Land Teh Karmon Teh Tatonguangu - Mountain Maidap Tabing Chubak - Plain Teh Haita - Sand Pasain - Island Paloo - Road Ha - Water Ho Bateao Migway - Sea Lawat Lant - River Sungei Sungai - Flood Pasing - Ebb Suit - Sun Milkatok Milkatok Allag - Moon Bulan Kachit Tabei - Stag Binting - Rain Ujar Oye - Fire Us Mona - Smoke E'el - Lightning Kilat - Thunder Kai - Wind Bioh - Cloud Miga - Dark Tin, Amea - Light Cha hai - Cold Gun, Amad Choma - Hot Pedee Mooloo - Black Belteng Belting Cheegheoga - Charcoal Auggu Mannying - Ashes Tebut Tapip - Cloth Budbud Panzah - Tree Kuing Chuck - Leaf Klee - Rattan Latei - Bough Teboa - Flower Bungei - Rice Bei Bayas - Salt Ceam Siyah - Milk Boo - Teeth Kabis - Life Gamas - Sick Myi - Fever Maa - Smallpox Champang - Man Tumbal Teunkal Camolon - Woman Mabei Badon - Virgin Kedah - Father Kan Ai - Mother Boh Mak - Brother Tobai Inak - Sister Wan-Ku-Man - Infant Wang Wanganeg - Husband Tee - Marriage Goon - Body Pee - Mine Eng - Flesh See - Bone Gehee Aieng Geetonggy - Blood Muhum Cochengohee - Head Kula Kuyi Kai Tabay - Face Mid - Ear Pal Anting Quaka - Mouth Tenut Ban - Tooth Lemum Yus Maboy - Tongue Litig - Belly Koad Cheong Napoy - Nipple Bou Chas - Hand Tong - Fingers Wantung Momay - Thumb Boaling - Hair Saa - Nail of the - hand Tiku Tong - Arm Belang Pilei - Foot Chan - Nail of the - foot Tiku Chan - Toe Wong Chan - Eye Meda Tabay - Nose Muck Neak Mellee - Tiger Chiai Taiyo - Hog Tuban, Badai - Dog Wan Ek - Deer San Rusak - Elephant Ta-Meen-da Gazah - Crow Eghail - Peacock Mah - Monkey Jayo - Buffalo Kebao - Rat Tikus - Cow Lemboh Lembok - Fowl Kawao - Duck Itek - Fish Ikam Nabohee - Snake Ekob - Bee Galu - Crab Kandun - Ant Kesub Les - Egg Mahu - Nest S'am - - -TEA. - -It is well known wherever tea is used, that there are two descriptions -of it, the _black_ and the _green_. In the account of the _domestic_ -commerce of China heretofore mentioned, it is shown that the _black_ -teas are brought from the province of _Tuh-keen_, (which lies at the -distance of about four hundred miles from Canton,) and the _green_ teas -from _Keang-nan_, (at the distance of about eight hundred miles.) The -hilly upland districts of these provinces are the native and favourite -soils of the tea-tree. It has not been supposed that these leading -kinds of tea, as an article of wide consumption, were the produce of -the same tree--but it has been and still is questioned, whether the -black and the green teas are the produce of plants _specifically_ -differing, or whether these differences of colour, flavour, &c., are -the result of the action of soil and sun on the same original tree. -Botanists have never been permitted to traverse these provinces, and -so decide this question; we believe however, that their opinion now -is, that there must and do exist differences sufficiently great to be -denominated _specific_, between the black-tea tree and the green-tea -tree. - -Beside this region producing the real tea of commerce, the greater -part of the Chinese provinces, and even Cochin-China and Japan, have -their tea-tree. The provincial tea of China is a widely different, and -very inferior article, though used by the poorer local population; -and sometimes when prices are high, it is used to adulterate, before -exportation, the _true_ tea. Perhaps the grape is the only plant whose -produce can be compared for singular diversity of flavour, &c., to -the tea of the tea-tree. The delicious "Woolung" differs as totally -from the common Souchong, as does the "Vin ordinaire" of the worst -districts, from the "Chambertin of Burgundy." - -We are not aware that there is any thing peculiar in the cultivation -of the tea-tree, except that, like the mulberry, it is kept down to a -sapling size, to secure a tenderer leaf, and to render its gathering -the more easy. It is said to be cultivated by small proprietors, who -sell the produce of their tea-groves to collectors, called at Canton -"teamen." These collectors leave Canton in the winter and spring with -their own, and perhaps a loaned capital, and after purchasing, curing -and packing, as much tea as their means will command, return with it -to Canton in the autumn. In the curing of tea, we are not aware that -any unwholesome methods are regularly resorted to--it is certain, -however, that _iron filings_ have sometimes been detected in black -teas, and that the colour of the green is sometimes attempted to be -heightened by a little "Prussian blue." It is perhaps from a few cases -of this kind, that prejudices have been excited against this wholesome, -temperate and social beverage. The green tea, when arrived at Canton, -is spoken of in the market as a "Sunglo," or a "Hyson" tea; the _black_ -tea is called a "Mohea," or an "Anki" tea. These names, derived from -the districts where the tea is grown, are used as general distinctions -of flavour and quality--the "Hyson" and "Mohea" being _sweeter_ and -more _valuable_--the "Sunglo" and "Anki," more _astringent_ and _less -esteemed_ teas. These names are however almost unknown to the consumers -in Europe and America. The names with which they are familiar, are -found under both these general distinctions in tea. The Hyson--Hyson -Skin--Young Hyson--Gunpowder and Imperial, all green, may be either -Sunglo or Hyson teas. These names, viz.: Hyson, Hyson Skin, &c., -merely designate the sortings, or siftings of the green leaf into its -different _sizes_, or _stages of growth_, but _plucked from the same -tree_. The Hyson, being the full-grown, mature leaf, has hitherto been -in much the greatest quantity; but the increasing demand for Young -Hyson, Gunpowder and Imperial--_younger leaves_--will no doubt be -followed by a corresponding effort to increase by a different time of -gathering, the proportion of these kinds of tea. - -There is not so much care taken in sorting the produce of the black-tea -tree. Its rougher, coarser leaf cannot be made to curl or roll when -dried, like that of the green-tea tree. In the spring, the first -sproutings of its twigs and tender leaves are gathered--these make -the _Pecco_ tea; they may be distinguished by the _white down_ which -covers them, as it does the spring shoots of other plants; hence the -name "_Pih-haou_," white down. In the course of the summer, there are -three other gatherings, each less valuable than the preceding, of the -leaves of the _black-tea_ tree. The "_Congo_," the great article for -the English market, is made from one of the _early_ gatherings, without -any mixture of inferior tea. The "_Campoi_," though not at the present -day a favourite article, or a very inferior one, has a large clean -leaf, and should be, as its name signifies, a "selected" tea. It is -not correct to say that the "Souchong" is an _inferior_ tea. Its name -merely designates it as a "_small-leafed_" tea; its different qualities -take in a wide range of flavour and value. Its first gatherings, from -favourable soils, are delicious teas; while the third crop, "Souchong," -is superior only to Bohea. The "_Pouchong_" is only a peculiarly -_packed_ tea; a clean unbroken black tea is chosen and tied up in -small papers to make Pouchong tea; its name signifies "_enveloped_," -or a "packed tea." The very inferior article called "_Bohea_," is at -the present time, rather a manufacture than a growth of tea. Its name -is corrupted from "Woo-E" the hills bearing the black tea. It is now -prepared either in the country, by mixing the refuse of the Souchong, -or with "Wa-ping," a neighbouring provincial tea, or at Canton by -adding farther, the tea which has been damaged on its passage from the -interior, and all the leaves within reach of collection, which have -been _once infused_ and dried again. - -The "teamen" are in the habit of affixing the same name, year after -year, to the tea which they bring to market; this name given to their -whole parcel, or to each of the qualities it may contain, is called -the "Chop" name. The foreign resident at Canton has little or no -intercourse with the "teamen." The "hong" merchants, or the merchants -trading through the hongs, are the medium of sale; they often, however, -purchase largely on their own account and judgment from the "teamen." - -The Dutch learned the use of tea at Bantam from the Chinese, and first -introduced it into Europe in 1610. It was not known in England until -after 1650; and from 1700 to 1710, there was imported less than eight -hundred thousand pounds; but from 1710 to 1810, it amounted to seven -hundred and fifty millions of pounds: between the years 1810 and 1828, -the total importation exceeded four hundred and twenty-seven millions, -being on an average of between twenty-three and twenty-four millions a -year. In the year 1831, the quantity amounted to twenty-six millions, -forty-three thousand, two hundred and twenty-three pounds; and in -the season of 1832-33, the export of the English Company was thirty -millions, thirty-six thousand, and four hundred pounds. The expiration -of the English East India Company's charter, and the ill success of -the Netherlands Trading Company, are now turning the commerce in this -valuable article into private hands. At the close of the company's -charter, (in 1834,) the consumption of tea in the United Kingdom, was -estimated at thirty-two millions of pounds. Under the free trade now -opening, it may be estimated at thirty-five millions. The consumption -of the rest of Europe, imported almost entirely through Hamburgh and -Holland, may be estimated at _five_ millions of pounds. The quantity -imported into Russia by land from China is not included. - -The _American_ trade to China commenced in 1784-5; and that season, -eight hundred and eighty thousand, one hundred pounds, were exported. -In the next season, six hundred and ninety-five thousand pounds were -taken. In 1786-7, five ships were engaged in the trade, and they -exported one million, one hundred and eighty-six thousand, eight -hundred and sixty pounds; but in the season of 1832-3, _fifty-nine_ -vessels exported thirteen millions, two hundred and fifty thousand, one -hundred and eighty-five pounds of the following descriptions:-- - - Catties. - - Bohea, 13,665 quarter chests of 50 catties each, making 683,255 - Souchg. and Pouchg. 39,538 chests 50 catties " 1,876,900 - H. Skin and Tonkay, 36,608 " 52 " " 1,903,616 - Young Hyson, 51,363 " 70 " " 3,595,410 - Gunpowder and Imp. 12,583 " 83 " " 1,041,899 - Hyson, 14,248 " 49 " " 710,972 - Pecco, 2,563 " 49 " " 125,587 - ---------- - Catties, 9,937,639 - Equal to pounds, 13,250,185 - -The consumption of the United States, and the ports supplied from the -commerce of the United States, may be estimated for 1834, at _fifteen_ -millions of pounds. - -We have therefore a total annual consumption, on this side of the -Cape of Good Hope, of this great staple of China, of FIFTY-FIVE -millions of pounds. This amount will in a few years be increased to -sixty millions. The quantity of tea exported by the Dutch cannot be -accurately estimated. Some seasons there are five or six ships engaged -in the trade, and in other seasons there are none: when there is any -deficiency it has been supplied by the Americans. The quantity exported -to British India averages about _two_ millions, three hundred thousand -pounds annually. The export by vessels of other nations is very -inconsiderable. - -The Portuguese, notwithstanding their direct, early, and intimate -connexion with China, neglected to import it, being very indifferent -to its use; they, as well as the Spaniards, place but little value on -it even to this day; coffee and chocolate being preferred in Spain and -Portugal, as well as in South America, Mexico, Cuba and Porto Rico, -with the addition of the Yerba de Paraguay or Maté, the favourite -beverage of the Spaniards of La Plata, Paraguay, Chili, and other parts -of South America. - - -_Comparative Estimate of the principal Exports from Canton to the -United States._ - - ------------------------+---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - | 1822-23.| 1823-24.| 1824-25.| 1825-26.| 1826-27. - | | | | | - ------------------------+---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Bohea, one fourth chests| 10,018| 2,413| 5,795| 3,340| 1,095 - Souchong & Pouchong | 37,828| 29,296| 31,566| 24,527| 27,405 - Hyson skin & Tonkay | 37,134| 32,426| 56,788| 45,299| 29,395 - Young hyson | 22,165| 31,217| 39,303| 45,461| 28,487 - Gunpowder & imperial | 4,899| 5,587| 6,817| 8,019| 5,992 - Hyson | 14,703| 11,562| 14,501| 19,072| 8,915 - Pecco | 175| 315| 215| 368| 377 - +---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Total chests | 127,022| 112,816| 154,985| 146,086| 101,666 - +---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Cassia, peculs | 7,773| 6,459| 8,624| 9,023| 4,035 - _Silks_--Crape, pieces | 91,447| 55,616| 103,236| 46,703| 29,615 - " Crape shawls | 156,631| 142,425| 220,635| 264,630| 104,060 - " Crape scarfs | 45,264| 8,683| 8,100| 15,800| 4,160 - " Crape dresses | 32,457| 23,298| 46,500| 58,050| 32,940 - " Florentines | 4,295| 3,846| 2,879| 1,025| 750 - " Sarsnets | 46,264| 45,384| 64,231| 62,662| 20,474 - " Senshaws | 24,145| 12,302| 10,919| 7,740| 9,485 - " Pongees | 5,649| 2,850| 2,967| 2,145| 5,369 - " Handkerchiefs | 92,338| 37,877| 80,979| 90,985| 42,635 - " Satins | 8,150| 5,614| 7,384| 7,880| 10,881 - " Levantines | 10,944| 8,645| 9,600| 6,280| 7,657 - " Camlets | -- |-- | -- | -- | 1,477 - " Droguets | -- |-- | -- | -- | 425 - Sewing silk, peculs | 75| 58| 75| 41| 18 - Raw silk | -- |-- | -- | -- | 210 - Nankeens, pieces |1,070,707| 259,506| 765,000| 664,000| 267,405 - | | | | | - | $ | $ | $ | $ | $ - Total value $|6,760,582|5,006,243|7,716,444|7,650,938|3,806,708 - - ------------------------+---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - | 1827-28.| 1828-29.| 1829-30.| 1830-31.| 1831-32 - | | | | | - ------------------------+---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Bohea, one fourth chests| 1,100| 901| 1,904| 3,592| 12,182 - Souchong & Pouchong | 24,775| 17,216| 25,428| 17,514| 39,596 - Hyson skin & Tonkay | 33,926| 18,097| 68,134| 5,447| 20,883 - Young hyson | 31,085| 26,192| 29,476| 25,528| 40,065 - Gunpowder & imperial | 6,614| 4,888| 6,289| 3,953| 9,117 - Hyson | 14,963| 11,264| 11,197| 7,147| 9,346 - Pecco | -- | 191| 366| 205| 517 - +---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Total chests | 112,463| 78,749| 102,794| 63,386| 131,706 - +---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Cassia, peculs | 7,209| 2,916| 2,888| 1,828| 3,541 - _Silks_--Crape, pieces | 69,028| 24,605| 9,660| 5,881| 9,507 - " Crape shawls | | | | | 77,570 - " Crape scarfs | 57,293| 101,425| 87,304| 102,162| - " Crape dresses | | | | | - " Florentines | 2,135| 850| 400| -- | -- - " Sarsnets | 23,489| 17,295| 25,439| 53,385| 27,455 - " Senshaws | 14,957| 11,340| 10,113| 25,810| 22,292 - " Pongees | 13,530| 16,087| 10,491| 41,439| 44,578 - " Handkerchiefs | 76,569| 24,314| 14,662| 14,189| 23,157 - " Satins | 18,606| 4,836| 5,154| 8,985| 6,965 - " Levantines | 13,497| 7,382| 4,356| 6,155| 13,643 - " Camlets | 2,620| 2,465| 310| 990| 3,500 - " Droguets | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- - Sewing silk, peculs | 184| 144| 164| 354| 350 - Raw silk | 157| 68| 230| 285| 109 - Nankeens, pieces | 524,500| 392,900| 305,568| 118,774| 122,285 - | | | | | - | $ | $ | $ | $ | $ - Total value $|5,318,966|3,337,480|3,629,722|3,356,551|5,577,731 - - ------------------------+---------+-------- - | 1832-33.| Catties - | | each. - ------------------------+---------+-------- - Bohea, one fourth chests| 13,665| 50 - Souchong & Pouchong | 39,538| 50 - Hyson skin & Tonkay | 36,608| 52 - Young hyson | 51,363| 70 - Gunpowder & imperial | 12,553| 83 - Hyson | 14,248| 49 - Pecco | 2,563| 49 - +---------+-------- - Total chests | 170,538| - +---------+-------- - Cassia, peculs | 7,428| - _Silks_--Crape, pieces | 4,559| - " Crape shawls | 77,876| - " Crape scarfs | -- | - " Crape dresses | | - " Florentines | -- | - " Sarsnets | 22,289| - " Senshaws | 13,172| - " Pongees | 48,741| - " Handkerchiefs | 27,274| - " Satins | 7,201| - " Levantines | 6,351| - " Camlets | 1,091| - " Droguets | -- | - Sewing silk, peculs | 72| - Raw silk | 144| - Nankeens, pieces | 31,500| - | | - | $ | - Total value $|6,691,412| - - _Average Prices for Teas._ - - -------------+--------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+---- - |1822-23.|1823|1824|1825|1826|1827|1828|1829|1830|1831|1832 - | |-24.|-25.|-26.|-27.|-28.|-29.|-30.|-31.|-32.|-33. - +--------+----+----+--- +----+----+----+----+----+----+---- - | | | | | | | | | | | - Bohea tea | 11 | -- | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 11 - Souchong | 22 | -- | 25 | 20 | 18 | 18 | 17 | 17 | 16 | 18 | 20 - Pouchong | -- | -- | -- | -- | 18 | 18 | 17 | 24 | 20 | 20 | 25 - Hyson skin | 21 | -- | 28 | 27 | 18 | 21 | 21 | 18 | 18 | 24 | 27 - Tonkay | -- | -- | -- | -- | 18 | 23 | 24 | 22 | 20 | 24 | 30 - Young hyson | 33 | -- | 40 | 40 | 25 | 33 | 30 | 32 | 30 | 44 | 47 - Gunpowder & | | | | | | | | | | | - imperial | 55 | -- | 50 | 50 | 55 | 50 | 45 | 48 | 49 | 56 | 58 - Hyson | 40 | -- | 40 | 45 | 40 | 40 | 40 | 42 | 42 | 46 | 49 - Pecco | 55 | -- | 50 | 60 | 60 | 60 | 60 | 60 | 80 | 50 | 55 - - _Export of Teas for Account of the English Company, - to London, season 1832-1833._ - - Bohea Peculs 52,844 Cost Tales 837,556 - Congo 139,640 " 3,315,811 - Souchong 2,321 " 86,482 - Tonkay 23,103 " 631,866 - Hyson 6,579 " 342,947 - Hyson Skin 786 " 21,450 - ------- - 225,273 - 133-1/3 - ---------- - Pounds[A] 30,036,400 {on account of the English Company, - { exported during the season 1832-33 - 13,250,185 by vessels of the United States. - ---------- - 43,286,585 {Pounds of tea exported by American - { and English vessels, from Canton, - { in the season 1832-1833. - -[A] The Company's agents, in Canton, do not give the number of chests -in their returns of teas shipped. - -_Annual Revenue obtained by the Government of Siam from Farms and -Duties._ - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Names. |Annual quantity.|Prices in ticals. |Duties. |Revenues. - ----------------+----------------+------------------+----------+--------- - Paddy and rice |1,696,424 coyans| | | Ticals. - | of 23 picul |1st sort 16 ticals|} | - " " | " " |2d " 14 " |} | 862,358 - " " | " " |3d " 12 " |} | - Orchards | 68,235 in No. | | | 545,880 - Vegetables | 4,251 | | | 17,800 - Samsoo or spirit| | | | - shops | Bang-kok | | | 104,900 - " " | Sieuthaja | | | 16,000 - " " | Bangxang | | | 8,000 - " " | Suraburi | | | 4,000 - " " | Krungtaphan | | | 4,000 - Bazars | Bang-kok | | | 39,200 - " | Sieuthaja | | | 12,800 - " | Suraburi | | | 1,600 - " | Bangxang | | | 1,600 - Duty on floating| | | | - houses | | | | 36,000 - Chinese gambling| | | | 64,000 - Siamese, ditto | | | | 58,000 - Teak wood | 127,000 trees | | | 56,000 - Sapan wood | 200,000 piculs |1st sort 3½ to 3 |} | - " " | " " |2d " 2½ to 2 |} | 84,000 - " " | " " |3d " 1½ to 1 |} | - Cocoanut oil | 600,000 " | 7½ to 8 |1¼ | 56,000 - | | |to 1½ | - Sugar, 1st | 10,000 " | 8½ to 9 } | | - " 2d | 60,000 " | 7 to 7½ } | | - " 3d | 20,000 " | 6 to 6½ } |1½ | 40,000 - " black | 1,000 " | 2½ to 3 } | | - " candy | 5,000 " | 16 to 17 } |½ | - Jaggery | 150,000 jars | 18 tcls. p. 100 | | - | | jrs.|2 tcls | 8,000 - Salt | 8,000 coyans | 2½ to 3 |6 | 32,000 - Pepper | 38,000 piculs | 10 to 11 |1½ | 23,200 - Bastard | | | | - cardamums | 4,000 " | 32 to 40 |6 tcls | 16,000 - Cardamums | 1st. 100 " | 360 to 380 } | " | - " | 2d. 150 " | 280 to 300 } |16 " | 5,400 - " | 3d. 300 " | 200 to 220 } | " | - Sticlac | 8,000 " | 12 13 14 |1¼ | 9,500 - Tin | 1,200 " | 24 26 28 |3 tcls | 18,200 - Iron | 20,000 " | 4 5 6 | " | 54,000 - Ivory | 300 " | 160 170 180 |12 ditto | 2,500 - Gamboge | 1st 50 to 60 | 75 to 80 } | | - " | 2d 150 " | 55 to 60 } |6 ditto | 1,200 - " | 3d 50 " | 40 to 45 } | | - Rhinoceros horns| 50 to 60 | 800 per picul |32 per | - | | | picul| 1,600 - Benjamin | 100 " | 50 to 55 | | 400 - Bird's-nests } | | 1st srt. 10,000} | | - " " } | 10 to 12 | 2d " 6,000} |6 ticals | 32,000 - " " } | | 3d " 4,000} | | - Young deer's | | | | - horns | 26,000 pairs | 1½ to 2 |10 per 100| 3,600 - Old, ditto, | | | | - ditto |200 piculs | 8 to 9 per pecul |½ | - - -------------+----------------------+-----------------+---------+-------- - Names | Annual quantity |Prices in ticals | Duties |Revenues. - -------------+----------------------+-----------------+---------+-------- - Buffalo, | | | | - ditto| 200 piculs |3 to 4 per picul |¼ | Ticals. - Deers' nerves| 200 " |16 to 20 | 1½ | - Rhinoceros | | | | - skins| 200 " |7 to 8 |½ | 800 - Tigers' bones| 50 to 60 |50 to 60 | 3 ticals| - Buffalo hides| 500 " |8 to 10 |½ | - Deers' ditto | 100,000 " |20, 25, and 30 | 3 ticals| 1,600 - White dried | | | | - fish | 4,000 " |8 to 9 |½ | - Black, ditto | 15,000 " |7 to 8 |½ | 18,000 - Small dried | | | | - fish | 60,000 " |3 to 4 |¼ | - Dried shrimps| 10,000 " |30 to 35 | 3 " | 4,600 - Balachang | 15,000 coyans |50 to 60 | 12 " | 8,000 - Wood oil | 15,000 piculs |3 to 5 |½ | 5,600 - Pitch | 10,000 " |3 to 4 |½ | 6,000 - Torches | 200,000 bundles |5 ticals per 100 |½ | 5,600 - Rattans | 200,000 " |4 " " |½ | 14,000 - Firewood | | | | - Wooden posts |1st. 500 to 600 in No.|1 per 4 ticals } | 10 per | - | | | 100| 8,000 - " " |2d. 3,000 " |1 per 2 do. } | 5 " | - " " |3d. 200,000 " |100 per 25 30 } | " " | - | | 40 } | 10 " | 8,000 - Bamboos |600,000,000 in No. |3 ticals per 100 | 15 | - | | | 100| 3,000 - Attaps |95,000,000,000 " |3 ticals per 1000| 20 " | 1,600 - Rose wood |200,000 " |342 per picul | 10 " | - Bark |200,000 bundles |100 per 6 ticals | | 1,600 - - Ticals. - Provinces under the superintendance of the crommahathai, - or 1st minister 32,000 - Ditto ditto ditto of the croomkallahom, - or 2d ditto 24,000 - Ditto ditto ditto of the crommatha, - or 3d ditto 12,000 - Revenue of Justice under the Crammamuang 4,800 - " of the Tribunal 8,000 - " derived from the gold in the province called Bangtaphan, - 180 ticals weight of gold. - " " " in the province called Pipri - 60 ticals weight of gold. - Tribute which the Malays pay for gold mines, 216 ticals weight of gold. - - -EXPENDITURE. - - Salaries which the king pays to the government officers - annually 618,800 - Alms to the Talapoins and the poor 87,600 - Monthly allowances to the sons of the late and present kings, - and the second king 29,000 - Annual salaries of all the princes employed, and the minors 47,400 - Annual pay of the Talapoins 18,240 - -_Statement of Annual Consumption and Value of Indian Opium in China, -for the following Seasons_:-- - - --------+---------------------------------------------+ - | Patna and Benares. | - | | - |Chests. Price. Value. | - Seasons.| | | | | | - | | Lowest.|Highest.|Average.| | - --------+-------+--------+--------+--------+----------+ - 1816-17 | 2610 | 1080 | 1320 | 1200 |3,132,000 | - 1817-18 | 2530 | 1200 | 1330 | 1265 |3,200,450 | - 1818-19 | 3050 | 800 | 1200 | 1000 |3,050,000 | - 1819-20 | 2970 | 1150 | 1320 | 1235 |3,667,950 | - 1820-21 | 3050 | 1300 | 2500 | 1900 |5,795,000 | - 1821-22 | 2910 | 1650 | 2500 | 2075 |6,038,250 | - 1822-23 | 1822 | 1180 | 2550 | 1552 |2,828,930 | - 1823-24 | 2910 | 1100 | 1900 | 1600 |4,656,000 | - 1824-25 | 2655 | 900 | 1450 | 1175 |3,119,625 | - 1825-26 | 3442 | 800 | 1150 | 913 |3,141,755 | - 1826-27 | 3661 | 800 | 1250 | 1002 |3,668,565 | - 1827-28 | 5134 | 815 | 1220 | 998 |5,125,155 | - 1828-29 | 5965 | 880 | 1100 | 940 |5,604,235 | - 1829-30 | 7143 | 805 | 1000 | 860 |6,149,577 | - 1830-31 | 6660 | 790 | 1050 | 870 |5,790,204 | - 1831-32 | 6060 | | | 953 |4,234,815 | - 1832-33 | 6931 | | | 798 |4,459,170 | - - -------------------------------------------+------------------- - Malva. | Total. - | - Chests. Price. Value. |Chests. Value. - | | | | | | - |Lowest.|Highest.|Average.| | | - ------ +--------+--------+---------+-------+------------------- - 600 | 800 | 950 | 875 | 525,000| 3210 | 3,657,000 - 1150 | 600 | 800 | 612 | 703,800| 3680 | 3,904,250 - 1530 | 600 | 850 | 725 |1,109,250| 4580 | 4,159,250 - 1630 | 950 | 1400 | 1175 |1,915,250| 4600 | 5,583,200 - 1720 | 1230 | 1800 | 1515 |2,605,800| 4770 | 8,400,800 - 1718 | 1050 | 1600 | 1325 |2,276,350| 4628 | 8,314,600 - 4000 | 1080 | 1500 | 1290 |5,160,000| 5822 | 7,988,930 - 4172 | 800 | 1050 | 925 |3,859,100| 7082 | 8,515,100 - 6000 | 550 | 950 | 750 |4,500,000| 8655 | 7,619,625 - 6179 | 560 | 850 | 723 |4,466,450| 9621 | 7,608,205 - 6308 | 860 | 1060 | 942 |5,941,520| 9969 | 9,610,085 - 4401 | 950 | 1420 | 1204 |5,299,920| 9535 | 10,425,075 - 7771 | 750 | 1250 | 968 |6,928,880| 13132 | 12,533,115 - 6857 | 740 | 1030 | 862 |5,907,580| 14000 | 12,057,157 - 12100 | 520 | 760 | 588 |7,114,059| 18760 | 12,904,263 - 8265 | | | 704 |5,818,574| 14225 | 11,501,584 - 14454 | | | 570 |8,258,155| 21385 | 13,757,290 - -_Average Consumption of fifteen years, ending 31st March, 1832._ - - Catties. - Chests of Patna and Benares, 19,954 chests, weighing 1,995,400 - Or candareens of extract of 50 touch 1,596,320,000 - Chests of Malva 24,600 weighing catties 2,460,000 - Or candareens of extract of 75 touch 2,952,000,000 - - Total chests. - 44,554. - - Total candareens of extract. - 45,466,320,000. - - Number of smokers, at 3 17-40 candareens per day. - 4,152,716. - - -_Tumbah Tuah's Letter of Thanks to Captain Geisinger, Bencoolen, August -31st, 1832._ - -The commander of the United States ship-of-war Peacock, during our -short stay at Bencoolen, presented one of the principal rajahs of that -place some American tobacco, and the following letter of thanks was -sent, written in the Malayan character, which, being translated into -English, is as follows:-- - - "BY THE MERCY OF GOD: - -"This friendly epistle is the dictate of a heart very white, and a face -very clean, written under a sense of the greatest respect and most -exalted love, permanent and unchangeable as the courses of the sun and -moon; this is to say from me--a gentleman--Tumbah Tuah of Bencoolen, -the Paseer Marlborough. Now may God the Holy and Almighty cause this to -arrive before the face of his glorious excellency, Colonel Geisinger, -the head man who commands in the American ship-of-war, which is now at -anchor off Rat island, in the harbour of Bencoolen. - -"Furthermore, after this, the object of this letter is to acknowledge -the present of American tobacco sent to me, and which I have duly -received through the love of Knoerle the resident of Bencoolen; this is -the message [present] of your lordship to me rajah, &c., [two names.] -Wherefore I return praise to God, and my expressions of gratitude--thus -much. - -"Besides this, I can only pray the Lord your God to grant you peace and -long life. Amen. - - "The gentleman, - "TUMBAH TUAH. - -"Bencoolen, the 31st day of the month of August in the year 1832." - -The superscription was as follows:-- - -"Presenting itself before the visage of his Excellency Colonel -Geisinger, commanding the American ship-of-war." - - -_Translation of a Letter from the Sultan of Muscat to the President of -the United States._ - - "IN THE NAME OF GOD, AMEN. - -"To the most high and mighty Andrew Jackson, President of the United -States of America, whose name shines with so much splendour throughout -the world. I pray most sincerely that on the receipt of this letter -it may find his Highness, the President of the United States, in high -health, and that his happiness may be constantly on the increase. On -a most fortunate day and at a happy hour, I had the honour to receive -your Highness's letter, every word of which is clear and distinct as -the sun at noonday, and every letter shone forth as brilliantly as -the stars in the heavens. Your Highness's letter was received by your -faithful and highly honourable representative and ambassador Edmund -Roberts, who made me supremely happy in explaining the object of his -mission, and I have complied in every respect with the wishes of -your honourable ambassador, in concluding a treaty of friendship and -commerce between our respective countries, which shall be faithfully -observed by myself and my successors, as long as the world endures. -And his Highness may depend that all American vessels resorting to -the ports within my dominions, shall know no difference, in point of -good treatment, between my country and that of his own most happy and -fortunate country, where felicity ever dwells. I most fervently hope -that his Highness the President may ever consider me as his firm and -true friend, and that I will ever hold the President of the United -States very near and dear to my heart, and my friendship shall never -know any diminution, but shall continue to increase till time is no -more. I offer, most sincerely and truly, to his Highness the President, -my entire and devoted services, to execute any wishes the President -may have within my dominions, or within any ports or places wherein I -possess the slightest influence. - - "_This_ is from your most beloved friend, - "SYEED BIN SULTAN. - -"Written on the twenty-second day of the Moon, Jamada Alawel, in the -year Alhajira 1249,[A] at the Royal Palace in the city of Muscat. - -[A] Corresponding to seventh of October, 1833. - -"This letter is to have the address of being presented to the most high -and mighty Andrew Jackson, President of the United States of America, -whose name shines with so much brilliancy throughout the world." - - - _Translation of the "Chinese Chop," relative to the United States' - Sloop-of-war Peacock, D. Geisinger, Commander, and sent to the - Hong-Merchants at Canton._ - - "Chung, Imperial Commissioner at the Port of Canton, Tsunhwan of - Jeho, &c., &c., hereby issues an order to the Hong-Merchants:-- - -"The Custom officers at Macao have reported, saying: On the sixteenth -day of the present Moon, [November ninth, 1832,] the pilot, Leu Kefang -reported, that on the sixteenth, the American cruiser Geisinger[A] -came and anchored off the Nine islands; that immediately he went and -inquired why he came and anchored, and that the captain of the said -ship replied, that he sailed from his own country to Manila, and a gale -having driven him hither, he had anchored for a short time; but that -when the wind should become fair he would set sail and depart. Now on -examination it is ascertained that there are in the ship two hundred -foreign seamen, twenty-four cannon, one hundred muskets, one hundred -swords, nine hundred catties of powder, and nine hundred balls. Uniting -these circumstances they are forthwith reported. Having obtained this -information, we ordered the pilots to keep a strict watch and guard -(against the ship.) Moreover, as it is right, we send up this report. - -[A] The Chinese always omit the name of the ship, and insert the name -of the captain. - -"_This_ coming before me, the hoppo, and having ascertained that the -said cruiser is not a merchant-ship, nor a convoy, and that she has -on board an unusual number of seamen, cannon and weapons, she is -not allowed, under any pretext, to anchor, and create disturbances. -Wherefore, _Let her be driven away_. And let the "hong-merchants," on -receiving this order, act in obedience thereto, and enjoin it upon -the said nation's Tae-pan,[B] that he order and compel the said ship -to depart and return home. He is not allowed to frame excuses, linger -about, and create disturbances, and so involve offences, that would -be examined into and punished. Let the day fixed for her departure be -reported. _Haste! haste!_ A special order. - -[B] Consul. - - "TAOU KWANG. - -"Twelfth year, twenty-second day of the ninth intercalary moon."[C] - -[C] November sixteenth, 1832. - -NOTE.--The truth of the matter is, the pilot, who came in the -mandarin-boat, was informed, that the Peacock was on a cruise and last -from Manila, and came there for provisions, and when she was supplied, -and otherwise ready, she would proceed to sea. But nothing was said to -him that she was driven there in a gale of wind from Manila. An order -was issued commanding the Peacock to quit the waters of China, but no -notice was taken of it, for the ship remained at Linting for six weeks -after. So inefficient is the _navy_ of China in the present day, that -the Peacock alone could destroy the whole "_imperial fleet_," and have -passed up to Canton and back with a _leading wind_, without receiving -any material injury from the forts, as their guns are firmly imbedded -in stone and mortar, and they can only be fired in one direction. - - -THE END. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber's Note - - -Duplicate headings have been removed. - -The following apparent printing errors have been corrected: - -p. 9 "Cavite" changed to "Cavité" - -p. 9 "Cavite" changed to "Cavité" - -p. 10 "Hue" changed to "Hué" - -p. 20 "ever house" changed to "every house" - -p. 31 "Malborough" changed to "Marlborough" - -p. 35 "who who were busily" changed to "who were busily" - -p. 40 "'Some" changed to ""Some" - -p. 44 "seeming delight" changed to "seeming delight." - -p. 47 "American consul," changed to "American consul." - -p. 51 "CAVITE" changed to "CAVITÉ" - -p. 57 "CAVITE" changed to "CAVITÉ" - -p. 65 "peloto?" changed to "peloto?"" - -p. 85 "if she" changed to ""if she" - -p. 96 ""it is a villa" changed to "it is a villa" - -p. 101 "of taxes." changed to "of taxes."" - -p. 104 "Nan-hae-heen che-heen" changed to "Nan-hae-heen-che-heen" - -p. 132 "crosing" changed to "crossing" - -p. 133 "POPULATION" changed to "POPULATION." - -p. 134 "the earth" changed to "the earth." - -p. 138 "longtitude" changed to "longitude" - -p. 142 "grand son" changed to "grandson" - -p. 144 "1618" changed to "1681" - -p. 147 "twenty six" changed to "twenty-six" - -p. 169 "mandarin, ducks" changed to "mandarin ducks" - -p. 178 "I am" changed to ""I am" - -p. 178 "at Hué?" changed to "at Hué?"" - -p. 181 "navigation,'" changed to "navigation,"" - -pp. 189 and 191 "HUE" changed to "HUÉ" - -p. 190 "confectionary" changed to "confectionary." - -p. 193 "before hey" changed to "before they" - -p. 198 "Hitherto all" changed to ""Hitherto all" - -p. 198 "places." changed to "places."" - -p. 200 ""_liberal treatment_?"" changed to "'_liberal treatment_?'"" - -p. 203 "I have now" changed to ""I have now" - -p. 213 "MANDARINES'" changed to "MANDARINS'" - -p. 216 "to Hue" changed to "to Hué" - -p. 216 "can.'" changed to "can."" - -p. 224 "peacocks,," changed to "peacocks," - -p. 227 "STRENTH" changed to "STRENGTH" - -p. 266 "wh take" changed to "who take" - -p. 273 "the iron" changed to "the iron." - -p. 274 "Chinese" changed to "Chinese." - -p. 282 "case, i" changed to "case, is" - -p. 282 "less tha" changed to "less than" - -p. 290 "cocks' with horses bodies" changed to "cocks with horses' -bodies" - -p. 296 "orginally" changed to "originally" - -p. 298 "Phanlcon" changed to "Phaulcon" (two instances) - -p. 302 "third rank)" changed to "third rank,)" - -p. 302 "rank,) &c," changed to "rank,) &c.," - -p. 308 "witnesses" changed to "witnesses." - -p. 313 "a star," changed to "a star." - -p. 317 "2d do 6,000." changed to "2d do. 6,000." - -p. 318 "32 to 40 do" changed to "32 to 40 do." - -p. 326 "expenses of the prahu" changed to "expenses of the prahu" - -p. 327 "midnight" changed to "midnight." - -p. 341 "region" changed to "region." - -p. 368 "curiases" changed to "cuirasses" - -p. 371 "pla as" changed to "place was" - -p. 374 "Guardafui,may" changed to "Guardafui, may" - -p. 378 "us,speaking" changed to "us, speaking" - -p. 390 "Wynberb" changed to "Wynberg" - -p. 398 "longtitude" changed to "longitude" - -p. 408 "Sakci" changed to "Sakei" - -p. 409 "Gantang,and" changed to "Gantang, and" - -p. 409 "extraordinary,the" changed to "extraordinary, the" - -p. 417 (note) "190, 191."" changed to "190, 191." - -p. 418 (note) "202, 203." changed to "202, 203.)" - -p. 419 "vol. ii" changed to "vol. ii." - -p. 431 (note) "the captain" changed to "the captain." - - -Many archaic, inconsistent, and variant spellings, as well as -inconsistent hyphenation, have not been changed. The following possible -mistakes have also been left as printed: - -p. 97 the passage beginning "says: "The gates" has no ending quotation -mark. The quotation continues to the words "and "Odyssey."". - -p. 136 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -On p. 204, there are reference to 1833 as both the fifty-sixth and -fifty-seventh year of independence. - -p. 279 they but most of them - -p. 372 "Bissaõ" - -p. 381 "the spot where there domicil is" - -p. 387 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 389 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 400 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 403 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 423 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 424 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 428 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 406 "Free casts" - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Embassy to the Eastern Courts of -Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat, by Edmund Roberts - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EMBASSY TO THE EASTERN COURTS *** - -***** This file should be named 44075-8.txt or 44075-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/0/7/44075/ - -Produced by Henry Flower and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Embassy to the Eastern Courts of Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat - In the U. S. Sloop-of-war Peacock, David Geisinger, - Commander, During the Years 1832-3-4 - -Author: Edmund Roberts - -Release Date: October 30, 2013 [EBook #44075] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EMBASSY TO THE EASTERN COURTS *** - - - - -Produced by Henry Flower and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - - - - - -</pre> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 44075 ***</div> <div class="transnote covernote center"> <p>The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.</p> @@ -18205,384 +18165,6 @@ mistakes have also been left as printed:</p> </div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Embassy to the Eastern Courts of -Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat, by Edmund Roberts - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EMBASSY TO THE EASTERN COURTS *** - -***** This file should be named 44075-h.htm or 44075-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/0/7/44075/ - -Produced by Henry Flower and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Embassy to the Eastern Courts of Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat - In the U. S. Sloop-of-war Peacock, David Geisinger, - Commander, During the Years 1832-3-4 - -Author: Edmund Roberts - -Release Date: October 30, 2013 [EBook #44075] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EMBASSY TO THE EASTERN COURTS *** - - - - -Produced by Henry Flower and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - - - - - - - - - EMBASSY - TO THE - EASTERN COURTS - OF - COCHIN-CHINA, SIAM, AND MUSCAT; - - IN THE - U. S. SLOOP-OF-WAR PEACOCK, - DAVID GEISINGER, COMMANDER, - DURING THE YEARS 1832-3-4. - - BY - EDMUND ROBERTS. - - NEW YORK: - HARPER & BROTHERS. - - 1837. - - - - -Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1837, - -In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of -New York. - - - - - TO THE - HON. LEVI WOODBURY, - THIS VOLUME IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, - - BY - HIS FRIEND AND FELLOW-CITIZEN, - THE AUTHOR. - - - - -INTRODUCTION. - - -Having some years since become acquainted with the commerce of Asia and -Eastern Africa, the information produced on my mind a conviction that -considerable benefit would result from effecting treaties with some of -the native powers bordering on the Indian ocean. - -With a view to effect an object apparently so important, I addressed a -letter to the Hon. Levi Woodbury, then a Senator in Congress from the -state of New Hampshire, detailing the neglected state of our commerce -with certain eastern princes, and showing that the difference between -the duties paid on English and American commerce, in their dominions, -constituted of itself a very important item in profit, in favour of the -former. - -Subsequently to this period, Mr. Woodbury was appointed to the -secretaryship of the Navy, and consequently became more deeply -interested in the success of our floating commerce. - -Scarcely had his appointment been confirmed before the melancholy news -arrived, that the ship Friendship, of Salem, Mass., had been plundered, -and a great portion of her crew murdered, by the natives of Qualah -Battu. - -As an important branch of our commerce to the pepper ports on the -western coast of Sumatra was endangered, by the successful and hostile -act of these barbarians, it was deemed necessary that the piratical -outrage should be promptly noticed by a national demand for the -surrender and punishment of the aggressors. - -About this period, the U. S. ship-of-war Potomac was nearly ready to -proceed to her station on the western coast of South America, by way of -Cape Horn, but her destination was immediately changed for the western -coast of Sumatra, accompanied by instructions to carry into effect the -measures of government against the inhabitants of Qualah Battu. - -As our government was anxious to guard against any casualty which -might befall the Potomac in fulfilling her directions, it resolved to -despatch the United States' sloop-of-war Peacock and schooner Boxer, to -carry into effect, if necessary, the orders of the first-named vessel, -and also to convey to the courts of Cochin-China, Siam and Muscat, -a mission charged to effect, if practicable, treaties with those -respective powers which would place American commerce on a surer basis, -and on an equality with that of the most favoured nations trading to -those kingdoms. - -A special or confidential agent being necessary to carry into effect -the new measures of government, I had the honour to be selected for -that duty, at the particular recommendation of the secretary of the -Navy. - -The summary chastisement of the inhabitants of Qualah Battu, and the -complete success of Com. Downes, in the performance of the duties -assigned by government, rendered a visit from the Peacock to that -place unnecessary, and thus left the objects of the mission more fully -open to a complete and minute investigation. How far they have been -faithfully accomplished, I leave to the candid and impartial judgment -of those who peruse the details of the Embassy, in the following pages. - -At the period of my visit to the courts of Siam and Muscat, American -commerce was placed on a most precarious footing, subject to every -species of imposition which avarice might think proper to inflict, as -the price of an uncertain protection. - -Nor was it to pecuniary extortions alone that the uncontrolled hand of -power extended. The _person_ of the American citizen, in common with -that of other foreigners, was subject to the penalties of a law which -gave the creditor an absolute power over the _life_, equally with -the property, of the debtor, at the court of Siam. As an American, -I could not fail to be deeply impressed with the barbarity of this -legal enactment, and its abrogation, in relation to my own countrymen, -detailed in the Embassy, I consider as not the least among the benefits -resulting from the mission. - -With the courts of Siam and Muscat, it will be seen, I was enabled to -effect the most friendly relation, and to place our commerce on a basis -in which the excessive export and import duties, previously demanded, -were reduced fifteen per cent. - -If in the attainment of these benefits some sacrifice of personal -feeling was at times made for the advantage of American commerce, the -dignity of my country was never lost sight of, nor her honour jeoparded -by humiliating and degrading concessions to eastern etiquette. - -The insulting formalities required as preliminaries to the treaty, by -the ministers from the capital of Cochin-China, left me no alternative, -save that of terminating a protracted correspondence, singularly marked -from its commencement to its termination by duplicity and prevarication -in the official servants of the emperor. The detail of the various -conversations, admissions and denials, on the part of these eastern -ministers, in the pages of the Embassy, exhibits their diplomatic -character in true, but not favourable colours. - -The unprotected state of our trade from the Cape of Good Hope to the -eastern coast of Japan, including our valuable whale-fishery, was -painfully impressed on my attention in the course of the Embassy. Not -a single vessel-of-war is to be seen waving the national flag over -our extensive commerce from the west of Africa to the east of Japan: -our merchantmen, trading to Java, Sumatra and the Philippine islands, -are totally unprotected. The extent of this commerce may be estimated -from the fact that there arrived in two ports in Java during one year, -one hundred and one ships, the united tonnage of which, amounted to -_thirty-eight thousand, eight hundred and seventy-seven tons_. To this -may be added the whale-fishery on the Japanese coast, which likewise -calls loudly for succour, and protection from the government. The -hardy whaler--the fearless adventurer on the deep--yielding an immense -revenue to his country, amid sufferings and privations of no common -order, certainly claims at the hand of that country, protection from -the savage pirate of the Pacific. Among this class of citizens too, -we may look for those bold and determined spirits who would form the -bulwark of our national navy. The protection of this important and -prolific branch of commerce is, in every point of view, a political -and moral advantage. I indulge the hope that it will become the object -of special legislation, and that the hardy sons of the ocean, while -filling the coffers of their country, may enjoy the protection of her -flag. - -The various tables relative to exports, imports, currencies, weights -and measures, in the various places visited by the Embassy, will, I -trust, be found greatly beneficial to the commercial enterprise which, -yearly, extends from the Cape of Good Hope to the China sea. They -have been compiled in some instances from direct observation, and in -others, from the best authority which could be obtained. While it has -been my special object to render the pages of the Embassy a guide -to the best interests of commerce, I have not been unmindful of the -claims which the general reader may have on a work embracing a view -of that interesting quarter of the world, the eastern and southern -portion of the eastern hemisphere; its natural scenery, productions, -language, manners, ceremonies, and internal political regulations, -will be found in the Embassy. The picture may not be at all times of a -pleasing character; it has rather been my object to give the original -impression, than to decorate it with any factitious colouring. When -visible demonstration could be obtained, I have always resorted to -it, in drawing my conclusions; and in those cases in which this best -auxiliary was denied me, I have given the testimony of travellers from -other countries, who preceded me in visiting the courts touched at by -the Embassy, and whose details have received the sanction of the world. - -The abject condition of morals among the inhabitants of the Indian -ocean, will naturally interest the philanthropist: while rejoicing in -the high moral tone of society which distinguishes his own happy land, -he will look with an eye of compassion on those regions where the -worship of the Supreme Being gives place to the mysterious idolatry of -Budha, or the external ceremonies of Confucius. - -The searcher after literary information will find in the account of -the literary institutions of China much interesting and useful matter -for observation and reflection. In relation to the strictness of her -collegiate examinations, and the high grade of learning necessary to -secure their honours, some useful hints may be derived to our own -collegiate institutions. - -In the appendix will be found a curious literary document in relation -to the aborigines of the Malay peninsula, particularly of the negroes -called Semang, accompanied by specimens of the Semang language in two -dialects, for which due credit has been given in the Embassy. - -The philologist will doubtless receive this accession to the common -stock of inquiries into the origin of language, with considerable -gratification. A philosophical investigation of the relationship -existing between the varied families of the earth, and their common -origin, may perhaps yet be based on the analogy existing between their -language and dialects. - -The phraseology of the epistolary document from the Sultan of Muscat -to the President of the United States, with that contained in the -letter from Tumbah Tuah to Captain Geisinger, at Bencoolen, furnishes -specimens of that figurative and high-wrought diction, for which the -Oriental nations are distinguished. - -As I am about to undertake another voyage to exchange the ratifications -of the treaties alluded to in the Embassy, to form others in places not -yet visited, and to extend, if possible, our commerce on advantageous -terms, still farther east than India or Cochin-China, I beg my readers -will consider the present volume as a prelude to much further and -varied information to be derived under more favourable auspices--more -intimate knowledge of eastern forms--and that caution which should ever -be the child of experience. - -In concluding my introductory remarks, I would freely acknowledge -my obligation to the works of those authors who have preceded me in -visiting the nations to which the Embassy was directed. I deemed it -important that no useful information, from whatever source derived, -should be withheld from my countrymen. Wherever ocular or audible -demonstration could be had, I have recorded the facts as they were -presented, in the most simple and unadorned manner; I had not in -view the flights of rhetorical composition, but the detail of useful -intelligence. - -My country claimed at my hands, the faithful fulfilment of arduous and -responsible duties. If, in the information furnished in the Embassy, -her requirements have been accomplished, my ambition is satisfied. - - E. R. - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - CHAPTER I. - PAGE - - Sailing from Boston; Arrival at St. Jago; Description; Exports; - Great Drought; Fogo; Fortifications; Sailing for Brazil; - Description of the Coast; Harbour of Rio and Distant Views; the - City; Public Garden; Boto Fogo; Botanic Garden; Population; - Public Buildings; Senate and House of Representatives 13 - - CHAPTER II. - - Sailing from Montevideo; Description of the Island of Tristan - D'Acunha; St. Pauls; Engano; Arrival at Bencoolen and - Description 29 - - CHAPTER III. - - Sailing from Bencoolen; Arrival at Crokatoa and Forsaken - Islands; Scenery; Beautiful Submarine Garden; British Frigate; - Arrival at Angier; Sailing from Angier; Bay and City of Manila; - Buildings; Population; Provisions; Labour 39 - - CHAPTER IV. - - Manila, continued; Calzada; Sea-Cucumber; Cigar-Factory at - Binondo; Exports; Duties; Weights and Currency; Exchange; - Imports; Luzon; Cavite; Hurricane; Lago de Bria; Pina; Indian - and Buffalo; Visits to the Alcade 51 - - CHAPTER V. - - Departure from Manila: Cholera; Cape Bolina; Chinese Vessels; - Pilot; Macao; Linting, Village; Whampoa; Jos Houses; Sacrifice; - Arrival at Canton; River and Boats; Description of Canton; Great - Idol Temple; Legend of the Jos House; Religious Ceremonies; - Minor Temples 63 - - CHAPTER VI. - - Budhism; Tombs of Ancestors; Ceremonies; Origin of Tumuli or - Tombs; Sacrifices to Confucius; Pan-Hwny-Pan; Infanticide; - Charitable Institutions; Government Gratuities 75 - - CHAPTER VII. - - Description of Canton; Sacking of the City; Place of Honour; - Mourning; Compass; Materials for Buildings; Houses; Principal - Offices; Duties and Penalties of Governor; Fires; Governor's - Salary; Division of Power 89 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - Literary Institutions of China; Examinations; Schools; Teachers; - School-room Ceremonies; Colleges; Domestic Commerce; Population - of the Provinces; Imports; Exports 109 - - CHAPTER IX. - - Early Commerce of China; American Trade; Hong-Merchants; - Translators; Linguists; Foreign Factories; Style of Living; - Manufactories and Trade; Physicians; Egg-Boats; Manufacturers; - Mechanics; Population of Canton 123 - - CHAPTER X. - - Weights and Measures; Money Weights; Commercial Weights; Opium; - Opium-Smokers; Mantchou Dynasty 135 - - CHAPTER XI. - - Death; Ceremonies of Imperial Mourning; Population of the - Chinese Empire; Knock-head Ceremony; Beggars; Cat and Dog - Market; Dr. B. and the China-man; Barbers; Dress of the Chinese; - the Dragon God; Slavery 147 - - CHAPTER XII. - - Climate of Canton and Macao; Meteorological Averages; Departure - from Canton for Macao and Linting; Macao; Population; - Superstitious Ceremony 162 - - CHAPTER XIII. - - Sailing from Linting to Vung-Lam Harbour, in the Province of - Fooyan, or Phuyen; Government of Shundai; Assistant Keeper of - Vung-lam; Letters to the King of Cochin-China; Catholic Priest; - Deputies from Shundai 171 - - CHAPTER XIV. - - Present of a Feast to the Embassy; Description of Arrangement; - Deputies of Hue; Extraordinary Demands--Refusal to Forward - Despatches to the Emperor; Letter of the Envoy to the Minister - of Commerce; President's Letter; Unconditional Requirements of - the Deputies 189 - - CHAPTER XV. - - Suspension of Intercourse; Failure of Mission; Departure of - Embassy from Vung-Lam Bay; Envoy's Titles; Mode of Husking - Rice; Tombs of the Dead; Fishing Boats; Absence of Priests and - Temples; Superstitions; Wild Animals; Mandarins' House; Mode of - taking Leave; Government of Cochin-China; Grades of Rank 213 - - CHAPTER XVI. - - Passage from Cochin-China to the Gulf of Siam; Arrival at - the Mouth of the River Menam; Packnam; Procession to the - Government-House; Reception; Governor; Siamese Temples; - Interview with the Siamese Foreign Minister; Prima Donna; Feats - of Strength; Siamese Females; Fire at Bang-kok; White Elephants; - Embalming; Shaving-head Ceremony and Feast; Fox-bats 227 - - CHAPTER XVII. - - Presentation at the Palace of Bang-kok; Description; Royal - Elephant; White Elephants; King of Siam; Great Temple of - Guatama; City of Bang-kok; Temple of Wat-chan-tong, and Figure - of Budha; Banyan Tree; Fire-feeders; Missionaries 253 - - CHAPTER XVIII. - - Chinese Junks; Mechanic Arts of Siam; Amusements; Dancing - Snakes; Annual Oath of Allegiance; Description of the Capital; - Embassy from Cochin-China; Education in Siam; Palace 271 - - CHAPTER XIX. - - Procession to the Funeral Pile of Wang-na, or Second King; - Origin of Budhism in Siam; Sommona Kodom; Atheistical Principles - of Budhism; Budhist Commandments; History of Siam; Government; - Titles of the King; Officers of the Government 289 - - CHAPTER XX. - - Ancient Laws of Siam; Legal Oaths; Punishment for Debt; - Divorces; Population of Siam; Stature and Complexion of the - Siamese; Division of Time; Boundaries and Possessions of Siam; - Marine of Siam; Imports; Inland Trade; Currency; Treaty of - Commerce; Table of Exports 305 - - CHAPTER XXI. - - Departure from Bang-kok for Singapore; Singapore; Commerce; - Bugis; Maritime Laws; Departure from Singapore; Straits of - Gaspar; Island of Java; Population of Java; Clothing; Dying; - Stamping; Fruits; Birds 319 - - CHAPTER XXII. - - Batavia; Burying-Grounds; Servants' Wages; Academy of Arts; - Departure from Batavia; Arrival at Angier; Departure from - Angier; Red Sea; Arrival at Mocha; Turkie Ben Al Mas; Palace of - Mocha; Currency at Mocha; Transparent Stone; Colour of the Red - Sea 336 - - CHAPTER XXIII. - - Departure from the Red Sea; Cape Rosselgate; Arrival at Muscat; - Blind Beggars; Fin-back Whales; Bedouin Arabs; Pearl Islanders; - Arab Houses; Currency of Muscat; Naval Force of Muscat 351 - - CHAPTER XXIV. - - Departure from Muscat; Arrival at Quintangony and Mozambique; - Exports from Mozambique; Imports; Departure from Mozambique; - Arrival at Table Bay; Cape of Good Hope 365 - - CHAPTER XXV. - - Algoa Bay; Imports; Population of the Cape of Good Hope; Public - Institutions; Newspapers; Departure from the Cape; Arrival at - Rio Janeiro; Departure from Rio Janeiro; Arrival at Boston - Harbour; Statistical Table 386 - - APPENDIX. - - Various Documents connected with the Work 403 - - - - -EMBASSY TO THE EAST. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - - SAILING FROM BOSTON--ARRIVAL AT ST. - JAGO--DESCRIPTION--EXPORTS--GREAT - DROUGHT--FOGO--FORTIFICATIONS--SAILING FOR BRAZIL--DESCRIPTION - OF THE COAST--HARBOUR OF RIO AND DISTANT VIEWS--THE CITY--PUBLIC - GARDEN--BOTO FOGO--BOTANIC GARDEN--POPULATION--PUBLIC - BUILDINGS--SENATE AND HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES. - - -The Executive having, in the year 1832, resolved on an attempt to place -our commercial relations, with some of the native powers of Asia, on a -sure and advantageous basis, orders were issued to prepare the United -States' ship Peacock, and the schooner Boxer, for that special object. - -The commanders of these vessels were required to visit certain ports -on the southeastern coast of Asia, and to make a general report on -the condition of our commerce, in relation to its security from -piratical, or other hostile acts in the Indian seas. I was honoured by -the President of the United States with the station of special agent -or envoy to the courts of Cochin China, Siam, and Muscat, for the -purpose of effecting treaties which should place our commerce in those -countries on an equality with that enjoyed by the most favoured nations. - -The Boxer, having orders to proceed on a voyage to Liberia and from -thence to join the Peacock off the coast of Brazil, left Boston harbour -about the middle of February, 1832; and on the following March we -sailed from the same port, in the latter-named vessel, for Rio Janeiro; -having on board F. Baylies, Esq., whom we were carrying to that place -on his way to Buenos Ayres, to which Republic he had received the -appointment of charge d'affaires from the government of the United -States. No circumstance, worthy of record, occurred until the eighth -day of April, when at daybreak we discovered the isle of Sal, one of -the Cape de Verds, and ere evening closed, St. Nicholas and Bonavista -appeared in sight. We lay to on that night under the lee of Mayo and on -the following morning cast anchor in the roadstead of Porto Prayo, in -the island of St. Jago. - -The customary salute of thirteen guns, given to the town, was -immediately returned with a corresponding number. Of the weather, -considering the season, we had no reason to complain. The thermometer -ranged between 40 deg. and 72 deg., rarely exceeding the one or falling below -the other; the lowest point, when we passed St. George's Bank, being -37 deg., and the highest, at the time the northeast tradewind first met us, -being 71 deg., in latitude 19 deg., and longitude 26 deg.. The barometer ranged -from 29 deg., 97', to 30 deg., 45'. - -The most perfect order and regularity prevailed on board the ship, in -every department of duty; each individual having his duties so defined -as to prevent confusion among the crew, should any of the seamen be -called suddenly to quarters, or to make, take in, or reef sails. -Among the acquisitions most useful and instructive, were an excellent -library, presented by the government to the officers, and a second -selection of books, purchased by the officers and crew, jointly. It -was a gratifying sight to behold men who might, otherwise, have been -occupied in relating idle stories, singing immoral songs, quarrelling, -or creating a mutinous spirit among their fellows, drawing useful -information from the great sources of knowledge, and extracting from -the page of history, at the same time, a fund of information and a code -of morals. - -The Cape de Verd islands belong to the kingdom of Portugal, and are ten -in number. They were discovered by Noel, in the year 1440, and contain -a population, as follows: Sal, four hundred; Mayo, two thousand five -hundred; St. Vincent, three hundred and fifty-six; St. Nicholas, five -thousand; St. Jago, thirty thousand; Fogo, ten thousand; St. Antonio, -twenty-four thousand; Brava, eight thousand; Bonavista, four thousand; -St. Lucia, uninhabited; total, eighty-four thousand. - -[Sidenote: CAPE DE VERDS--EXPORTS.] - -Among the principal articles of export from the abovementioned islands -is orchilla, a species of lichen. It is used for dying any shade of -purple or crimson, and is superior to the same kind of moss found in -Italy or the Canaries. This vegetable product glitters, as a sparkling -gem, in the royal diadem of Portugal, having been monopolized by the -crown, to which it yields an annual revenue of $200,000. The right -of purchase claimed by the crown, allows only five cents per pound. -Were it not for this unjust monopoly, orchilla would readily sell at -twenty-five cents the pound. It is exported to Lisbon, and there sold, -by the agents of the royal trader, to foreign merchants, who re-export -it to their respective countries. Salt is produced at these islands, -in large quantities, and furnishes a considerable article of export -for the United States' markets; being used for the salting of beef, -butter, &c. Heavy cargoes of it are exported, principally by Americans, -to Rio Grande and La Plata, for the curing of jerked or dried beef, -which finds a ready sale in the market of Havana. It is also purchased -by American sealers to salt the skins. In the list of fruits on this -cluster of islands, the red and black grape are conspicuous. They -furnish, converted into wine, a considerable article of internal -commerce. St. Antonio alone, says Mr. Masters, of Sal, produces, -annually, from fifteen hundred to two thousand pipes of wine. Owing to -the ignorance of the inhabitants in the process of fermentation, it is -of ordinary quality, generally unfit for transportation, and may be -purchased at the rate of ten or twelve dollars per pipe. - -If there be truth in the often-repeated assertion, that volcanic -countries produce the best wines, Fogo will export, at a future day, -a very superior article. Since the year 1827, coffee, nearly equal in -flavour to that of Mocha, has been cultivated with success. Previously -to that period, the crown had laid an almost prohibitory duty on the -importation of this article from its empoverished islanders, in order -to encourage the agricultural produce of its more extensive southern -possessions, in the vast territory of Brazil. Every planter, now, looks -on his plantation as a source of increasing profit, and within five -or six years, coffee will become the leading article of commerce from -the Cape de Verd islands. It now realizes ten cents per pound. The -remaining articles for export, are hides, skins, goats, and asses. - -We found the inhabitants, on several of these islands, suffering -extreme distress from a want of provisions, occasioned by a failure in -the periodical rains, for two successive years. At Fogo, many died from -starvation. The inhabitants of this island have, long since, annually -exported ten or twelve small cargoes of corn to Madeira, and in this, -their day of suffering, the inhabitants of that sister-island received -them by hundreds with every mark of kindness and attention. Some small -relief was likewise administered from the Peacock. - -The whole appearance of the Cape de Verds, in consequence of this -long-continued drought, was exceedingly arid; the grass assumed a -dark brown colour, similar to that which may be seen on our western -prairies, when a fire has passed over them. Nothing green was visible -in the vicinity of Porto Praya, save in the deep valleys, lying on the -outskirts of the town, where some moisture yet remained, and where -water was obtained for the suffering population. - -[Sidenote: PORTO PRAYA--FOGO.] - -The town of Porto Praya, is situated on an eminence of considerable -height, and may be approached, in front of the harbour, by two roads; -the one being on the eastern and the other on the western side. These -roads exhibit marks of great labour, bestowed in their construction; -they have been, for the most part, blasted out of the solid rock, and -extend up the side of a precipitous hill. Forty-five pieces of cannon, -of various caliber, pointed towards the roadstead, serve, at once, as a -fortification to the town and a protection to the harbour. - -Vessels bound to Western Africa, South America, or the East Indies, -generally take in refreshments at this port, which affords a safe -anchorage for vessels at all seasons of the year, excepting the month -of September. During this month it is visited by a violent gale from -the south, that would place in the most imminent danger any vessel -which might seek for security beneath the bold and rocky precipice that -rises in many places, nearly perpendicularly, one hundred and twenty -feet above the shore. - -At the summit of this rocky acclivity is the plain on which Porto -Praya is built, and where a large open square, from which three or -four streets diverge, serves as a market-place. Within this square -is a building used for a jail. On its eastern side are situated the -governor's house and a church; the latter being the only place for -religious worship in the town. - -At the request of the governor, Capt. G. and myself paid him a visit. -We were received with courtesy and affability. He is of noble family, -not quite thirty years of age; and on this occasion was bedecked -with six orders of merit, which he frequently gazed on with apparent -satisfaction and delight. The houses here are generally built of -stone: those facing the public square are two stories in height, and -well stuccoed; on the western side, many of them commodious, well -finished and furnished, and fastidiously neat in their appearance. A -gallery, resting on a precipice seventy or eighty feet high, extends -along their rear, and commands a prospect of neat gardens, securely -walled in, and laden with tropical fruits, vegetables, and flowers. We -observed several negro girls, in the valley beneath, drawing water for -the inhabitants of the town, and, with well filled jars, winding their -way up the side of a zig-zag and dangerous path on the hillside. As the -eye followed their ascent up the fearful height, from which a false -step would have dashed them in pieces, we could not but admire the -seeming ease with which they balanced their vessels, and the apparent -disregard of danger displayed by them as they frequently bent, in -wanton sportiveness, over the projecting crags of the precipice. - -The population of Porto Praya is said to amount to fifteen hundred or -two thousand, nineteen twentieths of which are black or of doubtful -origin. As a suitable return for the hospitality we had received -from the inhabitants, a supper and dance were given to them on the -quarter-deck of the Peacock, which was fancifully decorated with -evergreens and flags; that of Portugal holding a conspicuous station. - -We found fish in abundance in the waters around Porto Praya, and by the -help of a seine obtained a good supply, among which we found the mullet -and red grouper. Two lancet-fish were also taken: these singular fishes -are furnished on each side of the tail with a weapon resembling the -spring lancet, which they use both in defence and attack. The date-palm -flourishes in the valleys, and all the intertropical fruits may be -obtained in abundance in their proper season, and vegetables at all -seasons. - -Having replenished our diminished sea-stock, we sailed from Porto -Praya on the thirteenth of April. After clearing the roadstead, we -had a clear view, to the west, of Fogo; its towering altitude rising -thousands of feet above the bosom of the ocean in which its base was -laid. This ocean-mountain bears evident marks of its volcanic origin. -Volumes of smoke were seen issuing from its numerous craters, so long -as its bold outline was distinctly defined. Ere sunset, the Cape de -Verds were completely hid from the view, and we stood south, inclining -to the eastward, until the eighteenth, when we reached the latitude -of 3 deg. 31' north, and 21 deg. 41' west longitude. We now shaped our course -more to the westward, and on the nineteenth, being in latitude 2 deg. -22' north and 22 deg. 8' west longitude, we took in a light breeze from -the south and east, and crossed the equator on the twenty-second, in -longitude 23 deg. 30'. The usual ceremonies of a visit from Neptune, which -not unfrequently terminate in quarrels and fights, were judiciously -dispensed with. An attempt was, however, made to play a trick on the -uninitiated, which for a short time afforded much mirth and amusement. -A hair was placed across the centre of a telescope-glass, and handed -round, for the purpose of _seeing_ the equatorial _line_; but a young -midshipman having obtained another glass, _in which he could not see -the line_, the trick became at once discovered. To make some amends -to the crew for the loss of their usual frolic on crossing the line, -a modicum of good punch was served out in the evening, when it was -found that out of the whole number there was one-eighth (or twenty-one -men) belonging to the "total abstinence" society; a proportion which -I suppose to be as large as could be found among the same number of -landsmen. - -With pleasant breezes and moderate weather, we proceeded on our course, -keeping the ship one point from the wind, so that a foretop studding -would draw. At day-dawn on the third of May, we discovered Cape Frio, -and at ten o'clock, A. M., the Sugar-loaf at the entrance to the -harbour of Rio Janeiro. From the time we discovered the cape until the -following evening, a most perfect and, to us, annoying calm prevailed. -A brisk gale at length sprung up from the southwest, accompanied by -thunder, lightning, and rain: so stormy, dark, and tempestuous was -the evening, that we only occasionally obtained a glimpse of the -fine revolving light on Raza island: at intervals, a vivid flash of -lightning would disclose to us the Sugar-loaf mountain and a small -twinkling light at Santa Cruz. The bearings of the principal points of -land having been obtained, before the evening closed, notwithstanding -the war of elements, we dashed onward in fine style under three -topsails. As we came abreast Santa Cruz, we were hailed, and answered; -but not heaving to, three guns were fired, followed by the burning of -as many "blue-lights." We now proceeded up the harbour, and cast anchor -at ten o'clock. The city was saluted the following day, and the salute -answered by an equal number of guns. - -[Sidenote: RIO DE JANEIRO--HARBOUR.] - -The seacoast from Cape Frio to Rio is remarkable for the boldness -of its features, possessing various obtuse peaks and mountains; but -southward of the harbour is a remarkable range of hills, presenting a -rough profile of a human countenance lying with its face upward. It is -formed by a table-mountain and two jagged hills: the resemblance is so -striking at the first view that no force of imagination is necessary to -complete the picture. - -No one can enter this harbour without admiring the beautiful panorama -which is spread before him. At the entrance, called the Pao de -Assucar, the celebrated granite peak is seen, piercing the clouds, -at an altitude of thirteen hundred feet, and the prospect is every -where varied and magnificent. Nature seems, here, to have spread a -banquet for her adoring admirers. Every spot is covered with beautiful -flowers; even the rocks are festooned with various parasitical plants, -which exhibit a perennial bloom. The harbour is surrounded with wooded -hills, studded here and there with a chapel, a venerable church, or -a beautiful villa. The imagination has free scope to picture forth -scenes of bliss in the numerous valleys, where peaceful cottages lie -partially concealed amid groves of orange and lemon, lime and citron. -On the bosom of this spacious harbour may be seen, tranquilly reposing, -the vessels of all nations; and the water is dotted in every direction -with boats issuing from the numerous inlets and islands, from the -first blush of morn to dusky night, laden with passengers for the -city-market and the shipping. These boats are managed by slaves. This -harbour, called by the natives Nitherohy, was discovered on the first -day of January, 1531, by De Souza, and named Janeiro, or January river, -as he supposed it to be an outlet to a great river, from the extent -of its bay. It will probably ever retain, as at present, its name, -notwithstanding the extreme absurdity of calling a bay a river: for it -was soon ascertained by discovery, that no large body of water emptied -into it. - -The city of St. Sebastian, better known to the commercial world by the -name of Rio de Janeiro, lies on the southern shore, skirting the base -of several prominent hills and occupying the valleys between them; from -Boto Fogo to its western extremity it measures nearly eight miles. The -most conspicuous buildings are the numerous churches and chapels--the -bishop's palace--the theatre--and the royal palace, fronting the -harbour, at the great landing for boats and vessels from Rio Grande, -the town on the opposite shore. The streets, regularly laid out, -intersecting each other at right angles, are not more than twenty feet -wide, and wretchedly paved. The sidewalks are narrow and inconvenient -for a town thronged with people. The houses are generally built of -unhewn granite, and are from one to three stories high; they are -furnished with balconies, which are much resorted to by the ladies, who -seldom visit the streets during the daytime, excepting in sedan chairs, -when they attend to their devotional exercises. - -Owing to the extreme heat of the climate, the encumbered state of the -streets, and a due regard to the Portuguese custom which forbids their -walking abroad during the day, the ladies of the city take the evening -for visiting. In beauty, elegance and accomplishments, they sink in the -comparison with their neighbours of Buenos Ayres and Montevideo. - -The houses, excepting those occupied by the richer classes, are dark, -narrow, and filthy; and if this Augean stable be not cleansed from the -accumulated filth of ages, ere the cholera shall visit it, thousands -will be swept away. - -A stranger is surprised, in passing through the streets, at the immense -number of shops which occupy the ground floor of nearly every house -in the city; yet there are said to be but few failures among their -occupants. The extravagant price charged for every article, retail, may -perhaps account for this fact. - -One of the most celebrated objects of curiosity in Rio is the -celebrated aqueduct, which is seen winding its way from the Corcovado -along the base of many hills, intersecting the streets with its double -arches, and passing over the roofs of houses to the various fountains, -which are constantly thronged with negroes, carrying jars of water -to the dwellings of their masters for culinary purposes--the kitchen -being, in many cases, in the upper story, while the ground-floor is -occupied for magazines or stables. At some of the fountains are stone -troughs, for the use of the negro washer-women, which are constantly -thronged with them, making most vociferous cries: a greater confusion -of tongues could not have been heard at the dispersion of the builders -at Babel; for there is a mixture of all the languages of Africa, from -Senegal to Angola, and from Da Lagoa Bay to Zanzibar--with Portuguese, -Spanish, French and English, and various Indian languages: making, in -the sum total, an olla not to be surpassed by the Lingua Franca of the -Mediterranean, or the bazars of British India. - -[Sidenote: RIO--SLAVERY--POPULATION.] - -Every kind of labour is here done by slaves; the heaviest burdens are -dragged by them on ill-constructed drays over a rough pavement: some of -them (principally criminals or runagates) are seen chained in various -ways, and bending under the weight of packages too heavy for their -strength. - -Slavery appears here in all its worst features and most disgusting -deformities. Notwithstanding blacks may be seen at the altars, -administering the rites of religion,--as commanders of companies or -regiments, or as custom-house officers--yet poor friendless creatures -(white and black) are seen at every step, nearly naked, covered -with loathsome diseases, badly fed, having only the steps of some -church-door or the pavement for their bed, or lying exposed to the -intense heat of a tropical sun. - -I visited many of the churches, but found them sadly shorn of their -former splendour, having in them only a few aged priests, and, -excepting on particular days, a very limited number of devotees: the -passers-by rarely lift their hats and make the sign of the cross, as -they were wont to do, when passing the sacred doors; the same neglect -is apparent when the vesper-bell strikes a few slow and solemn sounds -at the decline of day. Formerly, when its tones were heard, every -kind of labour and amusement were instantly suspended, every head was -uncovered, a silent thanksgiving offered to the Giver of all good for -mercies received during the day, and His divine aid and protection were -implored for the ensuing night. Now, almost every species of religious -observance has departed, in the overthrow of a notoriously debauched -and overgrown priesthood. - -The population of Rio is estimated from one hundred and twenty to two -hundred thousand, of which a very large proportion are blacks. No -correct census has yet been taken, owing to the jealousy of the people, -who suppose that the object of government is to impose, in such an -estimate, a capitation tax. There is a great admixture of blood among -them, from the jet black African with his curly wool, to the pure white -with flaxen locks. - -The _French residents_ are numerous, if a traveller may judge from the -names on the signs, and the endless _Parisian nothings_ exposed for -sale in the Rua d'Ovidor and the Rua d'Quitanda. Here and there are -interspersed English, German, or Italian names. Since the abdication -of the late emperor in favour of his little son Don Pedro the second, -and the breaking up of his splendid court, numerous carriages have -disappeared, and only a few humble volantes or cabriolets are seen -drawn by two mules, or perhaps by a horse and a mule. - -The _National Museum_ is situated on each side of the Campo -d'Acclamacao, and is open to the public on Thursdays. It occupies at -present but three rooms, having been sadly plundered of its contents by -Don Pedro. The specimens of minerals are numerous and scientifically -arranged; but the entomological department is meager, considering the -immense numbers and beautiful varieties of insects for which this -country is so justly celebrated: there are many private collections -in the city which far surpass this, in numbers and brilliancy. In -addition to the abovenamed department are several cases, divided -into compartments, showing, in miniature, implements of trade and -manufactures. - -The _Senate House_, on the opposite side of the square, is a very plain -edifice, badly built, and propped up in every direction with long -pieces of timber. - -On the day when the minister of the interior delivered in his budget, -I visited the _House of Representatives_. The gallery and four private -boxes were crowded. We occupied one of the latter. There were about -seventy members present, highly respectable in their appearance, -although some were of a doubtful white, and others quite black. They -were dignified in deportment, graceful in action, and spoke with great -fluency. - -_Education_ has made great progress throughout Brazil within the last -fifteen or twenty years. Beside several Lancasterian schools, supported -by government, to which are admitted, gratuitously, children of all -colours, (slaves excepted,) primary schools are to be found throughout -the city; and private schools also, in which are taught the higher -branches of education. There are also a _surgical_ and a _medical_ -academy, an academy of fine arts, and ecclesiastical seminaries. - -[Sidenote: SCENERY--PUBLIC GARDENS.] - -The city has two public libraries; one of them contains between sixty -and seventy thousand volumes, in all languages. The other is at the -Convent of St. Benedict. I visited that institution when the librarian -was absent, but was amply compensated for the tiresome walk up the -steep hill, on a hot day, over a very rough pavement, by the beautiful -views exhibited in every direction. There, were seen mountain, hill, -and dale, cultivated and in a state of nature--an ocean, a bay, a -river, and on their surfaces were floating noble line-of-battle ships, -merchant vessels, and an abundance of little skiffs. At my feet lay -the city, with its busy throng, and at every important point were -fortresses and castles, showing forth rows of formidable cannon. The -day shone forth with great brilliancy; not a cloud was seen hanging -over the Payo d'Assucar, the Corcovado or the Tejuco; numberless -vessels were seen far at sea, pressing for the port, under a cloud of -white canvass, during the continuance of the breeze. On the left lay -the palace of St. Christovao; and, in the far west, a noble range of -hills, terminated by the spiked tops of the organ mountains, rendered -the picture enchanting and unrivalled. At the foot of the hill is the -arsenal; being deficient in room, the wall of the convent, on that -side, was taken down, and the rocks being blown away, a secret entrance -was discovered under the church, so ingeniously contrived as to be hid -from observation--it appeared like the rocks in which it was formed. - -_Public Gardens._--On the bay shore, commencing near the Praya or Beach -do Flamingo, is a pleasant garden, surrounded by a high wall, and -guarded at its various entrances by soldiers. It is much resorted to -by the inhabitants after sunset. The avenues are of good width, well -gravelled, kept clean, and are finely shaded by native and foreign -trees, and with hedges of flowers indigenous to the climate; but the -pure and wholesome breezes, and a view of the bay, are obstructed by a -mound, thrown up unnecessarily high, to protect this retreat against an -ever-rolling surf. - -Looking to the right at the further extremity of the beach, along -which is a range of good houses guarded by a high granite wall, lies -the beautiful Gloria hill, having a small white turreted chapel, Nossa -Senora de Gloria, or our Lady of Glory. It is of an octagonal shape, -lies partially concealed amid noble forest and fruit trees, and is -adorned with hedges of myrtle, interspersed with jasmine: and there, - - "Weak with nice sense, the chaste Mimosa stands, - From each rude touch withdraws her timid hands; - Oft as light clouds o'erpass the summer glade, - Alarmed, she trembles at the moving shade, - And feels alive, through all her tender form, - The whispered murmurs of the gathering storm; - Shuts her sweet eyelids to approaching night, - And hails with freshened charms the rising light." - -I was much gratified with two visits made to the Botanic garden, -situated about eight miles from the palace. The first visit was by -water, as far as Boto Fogo. From thence it is probably three miles -by land over a tolerably good road, lying principally amid mountain -scenery, the Corcovado being on the right. - -This mountain, on its eastern side, is one immense mass of granite, -rising perpendicularly to the height of two thousand feet. On either -hand are plantations and gentlemen's villas. The road was overhung -with various fruits--the coffee-tree showing its red berries and the -cotton-tree its yellow bulb; or, having burst its outward covering, -displaying the contents of its little pod, as white and pure as the -new-fallen snow; the hedges were beautifully decorated by the hand -of nature with roses, myrtles and jasmines, intertwined with a great -variety of creeping plants. On the left, we passed a small brackish -piece of water, called Lake Frietas, formed by an encroachment of the -sea; which, in heavy gales and during high tides, forces itself over -the sandy barrier between the low lands and its waters. - -We arrived at noon--an unpropitious hour, for the garden was shut until -three, in the afternoon. Being desirous to employ our spare time to the -best advantage, we strolled on several miles farther to the seabeach, -through sandy plantations, covered entirely with pine-apple, then in -a green state and very small. Our toil was unrewarded, as we did not -obtain a single shell, (the shore being too sandy,) nor did we see any -object worthy of note. - -On our return, we visited the garden, and found it a delicious retreat -and in fine condition. The broad wide avenues are kept in neat order -and lined with trees of various kinds. A fine stream of water conducted -from the adjacent mountains, along neat canals, over pebbly beds, -passes through the garden and divides the compartments of exotics from -the avenues. The servants in attendance explained the endless variety -of trees, shrubs and plants, and permitted us to take specimens of -every thing we fancied. - -This delightful spot is situated at the base of the Corcovado, on a -rich plain, fronting the little lake and comprises about seventy acres. -Here are many square plots of ground, containing altogether about six -acres of tea, both black and green, of which there are said to be ten -or twelve varieties. The plant is in height about ten feet, and bears -a small, delicate, white flower; it was in a healthy and flourishing -condition. The dried tea may be obtained in the city. The amboyna and -cayenne cloves grow here; the former being much more fragrant than the -latter. We also found the nutmeg--cinnamon of several kinds, pepper, -pimento, cardamoms, the camphor and sago palm, the bread-fruit in full -bearing, many varieties of the anana or pine-apple, the orange, limes, -sweet and sour lemons, citron, the mamoon, marrow or mamee apple, the -mango and delicious mangusteen of Java, the jack and the shaddock, the -banana, the plantain, the calambolla, &c., &c. The last is a sub-acid -fruit, of an oblong form and light straw colour, when ripe; it is -deeply grooved or ridged with sharp edges and is very refreshing and -agreeable to the taste. A beautiful arbour of a square form, having -vacant openings in imitation of doors and windows, stands in the centre -of the garden, furnished with a table; it is a place of great resort -for pic-nic parties and is ascended by artificial steps, made of the -green-sward. - -The situation of Boto Fogo impresses every one who visits it, most -agreeably--it is a delightful retreat from the hot and unwholesome air -of the city and is, like the Praya Flamingo and the Gloria hill, the -residence of many respectable foreigners. The little bay, fronting the -pretty sandy beach, seems like a tranquil lake embossed in magnificent -mountain-scenery. Having replenished our partially-exhausted stock of -sea-stores, and the commodore being with the squadron at La Plata, we -were compelled, reluctantly, to proceed to that place and set sail -accordingly, on the twentieth of May. The situation of our squadron -at La Plata, arose out of difficulties which existed between the -Argentine Republic and that of the United States, consequent upon the -unlawful and unfriendly capture of American vessels, sealing among the -Falkland islands, by order of Vernet, the governor; and from the proper -and spirited conduct of Captain Duncan, commander of the Lexington, -in removing the colony to Montevideo, and thereby, most effectually -cutting off all further depredations upon our commerce. - -[Sidenote: MONTEVIDEO.] - -We received the customary assistance of boats, from the various men of -war, in towing the ship out of the harbour. As we passed the British -line-of-battle ship Plantagenet, the band of musicians struck up -our national air of "Hail Columbia." On the thirtieth, we made St. -Marys, being the northern cape at the entrance of the river. A brisk -breeze the day following, accompanied with misty weather, wafted us, -at midnight, within four miles of the isle of Flores, on which we -found an excellent revolving light--and the weather clearing up, we -saw the dull light which crowned the hill called Montevideo. Sail was -then shortened to maintain our position until daylight; but in the -course of three hours, a strong current running out of the river, had -forced us into four and a half fathoms of water, on the edge of the -English bank. We anchored, on the second of June, in the roadstead -of Montevideo, near the United States' ship Lexington. On the next -morning, we again sailed, with a strong easterly gale, for Buenos -Ayres, and at noon anchored in three and a half fathoms of water, off -Pinta de India, in thick weather and a bad sea. In the afternoon, it -became sufficiently clear for us to obtain a glimpse of the tops of -some trees; sail was again made and on the fifth, we came too, in -the outer Balissas, near to the United States' ship Warren, under -the command of Acting-Commodore Cooper, and the schooner Enterprise, -commanded by Lieutenant-Commodore Downing. Having landed Mr. Baylies -and family, and taken in provisions for our voyage across the South -Atlantic and Indian oceans, we sailed on the nineteenth, and in four -days arrived at Montevideo. As we passed to our anchorage ground, H. -B. M. frigate Druid, A. R. Hamilton, commander, complimented our flag -by her musicians playing "Hail Columbia," which cheered our hearts and -created a kindly feeling in us towards our English brethren. Many years -previous to this visit to La Plata, I had resided many months at Buenos -Ayres, and had become acquainted with a number of worthy men and lovely -females, who then shone with great brilliancy at the Tertulias, in the -Bolero and Pas-a-pie, but time had changed the faces and condition of -the living--death had been busy among all classes and many a friend -and acquaintance had gone to the eternal world, amidst the various -revolutions. The splendid churches were shorn of their ornaments and -a few solitary priests, superannuated and on the brink of the grave, -were seen tottering through the deserted aisles and cloisters, where -hundreds had once been, and where the resounding of my own footsteps -now made me start, and look back to see if any of the departed had -returned to wander within their former haunts, and deplore, though they -were wont to be called holy, their numerous imperfections. A regal -government has now given place to one of another stamp; but the great -number of armed men in the streets and about the public buildings, have -divested it of much of its republican character. A Protestant church -is now erected, and English names are frequently seen over the doors -of buildings where once a foreign merchant was not permitted to dwell. -To me, it seemed like traversing a vast sepulchre--so many had closed -their eyes in death, while others appeared like spectres of former -days. It was like a city once in ruins, but which had been freed of its -incumbrances, and was again ushered into light and life, peopled by a -new generation. - -Montevideo also had met with unparalleled sufferings from the time -that it was besieged by the British to the present hour. The beautiful -cathedral was disfigured by marks of cannon-balls--the walls were -partly demolished--the gates broken down--the cannon removed, and not a -solitary sentinel was on the lookout from the battlements; the streets -were broken up, and full of unsightly and dangerous holes. Death, the -all-consuming hand of time, and squalid poverty, had laid a whole city -in ruins; it was like a vast cemetery; for all I once knew had been -swept away; even their names had been obliterated for ever. I therefore -left it, better satisfied to wander ten thousand miles over a trackless -and stormy ocean, than to remain in a city whose former inhabitants -were spread in dust amid its ruins. - - - - -CHAPTER II. - - SAILING FROM MONTEVIDEO--DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF TRISTAN - D'ACUNHA--ST. PAULS--ENGANO--ARRIVAL AT BENCOOLEN AND DESCRIPTION. - - -Agreeably to orders from the navy department, the commander of the -Peacock was required to proceed to the west coast of Sumatra, to -ascertain whether Commodore Downes had obtained redress for the murders -and robbery committed on board the ship Friendship, of Salem, by the -natives of Qualah Battu; and if it should appear that from any cause -such redress had not been effected, then the Peacock, in conjunction -with the United States' schooner Boxer, was to proceed to Qualah Battu, -and, if possible, to obtain possession of the murderers, and transport -them to the United States for trial; and also to demand indemnification -for the heavy losses sustained by the owner. If these demands were not -complied with, the town was to be destroyed. - -The Boxer not having yet joined us, orders were left for her commander -to proceed to Bencoolen, in the island of Sumatra. On the evening of -the twenty-fifth of June, the ship got under way, from the bay of -Montevideo. As we slowly receded from the port, the feeble light on the -mount shone like a distant star through the hazy atmosphere; and the -thousand lights in the unfortunate town of San Felipe appeared like -the glimmerings of the firefly in a midsummer's night, revelling amid -the light vapours arising from marshy ground; the brilliant light on -the Flores also was in full view, throwing its extended beams far and -wide over the tremulous sea. Our progress during the night was very -slow--Flores and Lobos, and the serrated mountains of Maldonado, found -us at the dawn of day, fanning along slowly, with an air which scarcely -ruffled the ocean's surface. Nothing occurred to us beyond what -generally befalls the sons of the ocean, in running down ten thousand -miles of coasting. Scarcely were we clear from the muddy waters of La -Plata, and had launched amid the waves of the great Southern ocean, -when squally weather assailed us, and close-reefed topsails were -resorted to rather more frequently than is pleasant even to those who -live upon the mountain-wave. The ship was at one time rolling her -channels in before a strong westerly wind; at another, lying with her -broadside deeply submerged by severe squalls from the northwestern -quarter, the gun-deck being ankle-deep in water, and washing from side -to side. _Life-lines_ were secured from gun to gun to support the -constant passing of men fore and aft the deck. On the fifteenth of -July, the snow-clad mountains of Tristan d'Acunha appeared, lighted by -a brilliant morning-sun, and towering to a height estimated at between -nine and ten thousand feet. - -This island is occasionally resorted to for water, live stock, fruit, -vegetables, butter, &c.; the former may be had in abundance on the -northeast side, where, in a clear day, it may be seen rushing from -above, white as the snow on the mountain-top, and dashing on the beach, -from a cataract of fifty feet in height. Owing to the steepness of -the anchorage-ground and the frequency of sudden squalls, it is most -safe "to lay off and on," and send a boat on shore. Vessels which -prefer anchoring, run in until the watering-place bears southwest by -south, about one mile distant, where they find seventeen fathoms, in a -gravelly bottom, mixed with broken shells. - -This place was originally settled in 1811, by the unfortunate Jonathan -Lambert, of Salem, who was drowned in going to Inaccessible island. It -has ever since been occupied by an English sergeant and family, from -the Cape of Good Hope, by order of the British government, who took -possession of it, as was said, with the ostensible motive of keeping it -as an outpost to St. Helena, at the time of Bonaparte's imprisonment -there. - -It may be doubted whether a desire to prevent the Americans from -resorting to the island, as a place of rendezvous in the event of -another war, was not the real motive which actuated the British to take -it within their protection. - -On the nineteenth, having then been out twenty-three days, we -obtained soundings in sixty fathoms water, on bank Lagullus, off -the Cape of Good Hope. Dashing onward through storm and tempest, -endeavouring to keep about latitude 38 deg. or 39 deg., on the sixth of -August, forty-one days from our departure from the bay of Montevideo, -we descried on the northeast the uninhabited island of St. Pauls. -As we approached from the southward and westward, it bore the exact -resemblance of a long-nosed porpoise; but when passing its eastern -extremity, and bearing off about four miles north, it appeared like a -spermaceti whale, the head being to the eastward: fronting it was a -moderately-high conical peak: its highest point would scarcely exceed -five hundred feet. Three or four days subsequently, we encountered a -very heavy gale from northnortheast, accompanied by a tremendous swell -of the ocean; during its violence, a sea of uncommon height and volume -struck the ship, and threw her nearly on her beam ends, completely -overwhelmed the gig in the starboard-quarter, crushed it into atoms -in a moment, and buried the first three ratlines of the mizen-shrouds -under water. - -It was fortunate that we escaped without further danger, as it came -thundering onward "mountains high." A universal silence prevailed -during its threatening approach: after it had passed, great -apprehensions were expressed that it would "break on board," and -completely sweep the deck. - -As we proceeded along and gradually made northings from longitude -about 90 deg. east, the winds began to be variable and the weather warm; -greatcoats and peajackets disappeared from among the crew, and finally -white duck trousers and shirts were alone seen. The southeast tradewind -did not unequivocally set in until we had arrived in the latitude of -16 deg., and longitude 102 deg.. - -[Sidenote: ENGANO--BENCOOLEN.] - -On the twenty-third of August we made the island of Engano, the -southernmost of the chain of islands which runs parallel with the west -coast of Sumatra, and which is inhabited by a vile race. From Engano, -the winds were very light and variable from the southeast, accompanied -with lightning, thunder, and rain, till the twenty-eighth, when we -anchored in the bay of Bencoolen; about midway between the Ratones or -Rat island and the point on which the Doosoon, or village of Bencoolen -or Marlborough is situated, and about three and a half miles from -either place. - -This settlement was ceded by the English to the Dutch government, -with all the British possessions in Sumatra, by the treaty of the -Netherlands in 1824, in exchange for Malacca and the claims of the -Dutch to the island of Singapore. Rat island basin is resorted to by -vessels intending to remain some time, more particularly during the -prevalence of the northwest gales from October to March; but coasting -craft always resort there during the southeast winds, which last -through the other half of the year. - -A boat, with acting Lieutenant Sinclair, was despatched to the town, -and in a short time a very polite invitation was received from J. H. -Knoerle, Esq., the Dutch resident, to breakfast with him the next -morning, and to Captain G. and myself to reside with him during the -ship's stay. By this boat we heard of the entire destruction of Qualah -Battu, by the Potomac, which happily precluded the necessity of an -unpleasant visit, and saved the officers and crew the painful duty -which would otherwise have devolved on the Peacock. The demolition of -this place struck terror into the inhabitants of all the native ports -on the coast, and will doubtless produce a salutary effect. - -[Sidenote: RAT ISLAND.] - -In the afternoon, we took a boat, and landed at Rat island. Two acres -of dry land would cover it; the coral reefs, which extend northward -and southward, are very extensive and dangerous. The island contains -four or five wretched huts, including a stone building now in a state -of much dilapidation, and a godown or magazine at the building, which -is open at the sides. In heavy westerly gales, the spray of the sea -breaks over this speck in the ocean. Fish is the chief food of the -inhabitants. The teeth of these islanders (possessed by few of them) -are of a deep black colour, and show that they are frequently employed -in chewing areca, &c. The chief man, called Rajah Mundo, is a Malay, -about seventy years of age, but still active and healthy, with features -so brown and deeply furrowed as to resemble a piece of soleleather. -When we entered his abode, a stone building, it reminded me of -Hogarth's picture of the last day, when every thing has fallen into -decay. The steps were nearly all broken down; one of the two wooden -pillars which supported the portico was decayed, and had fallen; the -roof was gone, and the walls were falling; two half-starved monkeys -stood as sentries, at the door, having something which was intended as -an apology for a tail. The other articles of furniture in this abode -consisted of two Chama gigas, or the great giant clams, the root of a -tree for seats, two broken earthen pots for cooking, and a joint of -bamboo instead of a water-bucket, which latter served likewise the -purpose of a drinking-vessel, as we found in asking for some water. -The floor, apparently, had never been washed; the ceiling was of -coal-black; and centipedes, lizards, and snails, were crawling in every -direction over the walls. In the only dry corner, lay a sick daughter, -between two mats; but the mother of the rajah formed the consummation -of this dreadful picture: at the back door stood what I suppose must -be called a human being. We started back in amazement on seeing this -frightful object, thinking her to be deranged; the horror of Macbeth, -on seeing his chair occupied in the banquet-scene, by the ghost of -the murdered Banquo, could not have been surpassed by our own on this -occasion. The words of the royal thane rushed upon my memory, and I -instinctively uttered-- - - "Avaunt and quit my sight! let the earth hide thee: - Thy bones are marrowless! - Thou hast no speculation in those eyes. - Which thou dost glare with." - - "Take any shape but that, and my firm nerves shall never tremble." - -The only article of dress on this singular being was a filthy, ragged -waist-cloth, apparently covered with vermin, from the belt of which was -suspended a long knife; her gray elf-locks scattered by the wind--her -eyes running with rheum--her face and hands covered with dirt--her body -loathsome with leprous spots; contrasted with her dark Malay skin, gave -her a truly hideous appearance; added to this, a solitary long black -tooth projected over her under lip, and her trembling and attenuated -frame displayed the influence of that baneful narcotic, opium, to -which she was addicted. Wretchedness could not portray a more faithful -picture: imagination had nothing to conceive. We gladly left this -loathsome habitation, upon a ramble about the coral reefs for shells, -and shortly embarked for the ship, rejoiced at being removed from a -horrid object, which long after haunted my imagination by night and -day. I have since learned that she is a fiend in human shape, living by -means the most diabolical. - -[Sidenote: BENCOOLEN--NUTMEGS.] - -The next morning we landed at Bencoolen, and found in waiting a -neat carriage, in which we were conveyed into a handsome park, and -subsequently to the government-house. Here we were received, at the -lower end of a long staircase, by the resident, and ushered up stairs -into the great hall, through two lines of soldiers, as fierce in -appearance as were ever exhibited on a stage: they consisted of Malays, -Sumatrans, and Javanese, from Neas and Borneo, and from the bay of -Bengal, turbaned, whiskered and mustachoed, and in some cases furnished -with long beards, armed with swords, the cris or crooked dagger, -pistols and muskets. - -A most substantial breakfast was quickly served in great variety, and -placed in the verandah, for the benefit of the air. With a cloudless -sky above, the most beautiful scenery surrounding us, and a hospitable -reception, we had nothing more to desire. The government house is -situated in a park, embosomed in flowers, fruit, and forest-trees, -guarded by line hedges and a neat bamboo fence. The road around -the grounds was lined with the male and female nutmeg-trees, the -clove-tree, and the graceful areca-palm, laden with its yellow fruit, -hanging in large clusters under the branches. Here and there were -interspersed beautiful flowering trees in great variety, and creeping -plants intertwined among the branches. The female nutmeg was loaded -with fruit resembling, in colour, a straw-coloured peach, but pointed -slightly towards the stalk, like a pear. The fruit which had become -ripe, had burst about half an inch of its outer-covering, and displayed -a beautiful network of scarlet mace, covering a black shining hard -thick shell, in which lay concealed the nutmeg itself. The bark of the -nutmeg-tree is smooth, and of a brownish-gray colour; the branches are -handsome and spreading; the leaves, elliptical and pointed, afford a -very grateful aromatic odour: on the same tree may be seen the fruit in -its progressive stages to maturity, and the white blossoms hanging in -clusters, encircled by the yellow leaves from which they have burst. -From the centre of the flower proceeds an oblong reddish knob, which is -the fruit. I was told that a tree which produces, daily, throughout the -year, one nutmeg, is considered very productive and profitable, even at -the present low prices. At the Dutch company's late sales, they brought -from fifty-two to fifty-six dollars the pecul, equal to one hundred -and thirty-three and one third pounds avoirdupois; and the mace, -from ninety-two to ninety-five dollars. The male nutmeg-tree, being -necessary to the propagation of the fruit, cannot be dispensed with; -it is generally filled with white blossoms, and interspersed among its -female companions. The operation of loosening the inner shell of the -nutmeg is a tedious process, and is performed over a slow fire; when -the shells are sufficiently loose to rattle they are broken, assorted, -soaked several times in water and lime--then placed in dry boxes or -small rooms to sweat; and finally, are packed in dry chunana or lime -made from seashells. The small and oblong fruit is not merchantable; -the best kind is large, round, heavy and firm, of a lightish-gray -colour on the outside; a strong fragrant smell; and when pricked, the -oil should readily ooze out. - -Very extensive plantations of this great article in commerce, are in -the vicinity of Bencoolen. Those which belong to the Dutch government -are twelve miles distant, on a fine road extending towards the -mountains, about one hundred miles long. I visited some Parsees, who -were busily employed in curing nutmegs and mace. Large quantities of -the latter were spread on mats, exposed to the sun, where they remain -to dry, from six to ten, and from four to six o'clock. The extreme heat -of the day dries them too much and renders them brittle and deficient -in fragrance; if placed in too moist an air they are subject to decay -and will breed worms; they should be chosen fresh, tough, oleaginous, -of an extremely fragrant smell and of a bright reddish-yellow. The -rind of the nutmeg when not too dry, is preserved in sirup and the -entire fruit, when nearly ripe, made into a delicious and ornamental -sweetmeat; it is cut part of the way down, at regular intervals and -fancifully ornamented by neat scollops, peaks, and leaves, showing at -one view the straw-coloured outer-covering, the scarlet mace, and the -inner black shell, covering the nucleus of the whole, the nutmeg. - -Pepper, another article of export to a great extent, is cultivated -throughout the island. It is propagated by cuttings or layers, as we -raise grape-vines: if suffered to trail on the ground, it produces no -fruit, and support is consequently necessary: it climbs from twelve to -twenty feet high: the blossom is white; the berries, when at maturity, -are red and much resemble branches of red currants. In a favourable -season it produces two crops. - -The only fortification which Bencoolen possesses, is at Fort -Marlborough--it is in excellent order, and situated but a short -distance from the landing-place. There are not more than fifty or -sixty Dutch soldiers in the place. The town is built on a point of -land named Onjong Carang: it is of moderate elevation--falls back -into low swampy ground, and is at times severely visited by that -fatal disease, the jungle fever: the liver complaint is also very -general. Bencoolen and the ten doosoons or villages, contain about -eighteen thousand inhabitants, consisting of a few Dutch, some of the -descendants of Englishmen, who speak the English language--Chinese, -Javanese, Bengalees, Parsees, Sumatrans, Malays, &c. The Chinese occupy -an enclosure in the centre of the town, and have a Budhist or temple: -they bear the same characteristic marks here as elsewhere, being -industrious, frugal, and thrifty. Each doosoon is governed by a rajah, -who is chosen from among themselves, and if approved by the residents, -he cannot lose his office during life, unless for the commission of -some flagrant crime. The residents and a certain number of Rajahs form -a court for the trial of all cases requiring legal investigation. If -a criminal is condemned to suffer death, a copy of the trial is sent -to the governor-general of Java, and if approved by him, the sentence -is carried into execution. It is degrading to humanity to see the -abject air with which the resident is addressed by the lower order of -Sumatrans. They stand, when they enter his presence, with an aspect -of humble submission: their bodies are bent--the palms of their hands -are seen resting on their knees, and fear is strangely marked on their -countenances. - -The Dutch Government has two schools here--they are conducted upon -the Lancasterian plan; the first, which is kept in an outer room of -the government-house, contains about twenty-five scholars. The pupils -were learning arithmetic, to write on sand, and to read from certain -portions of the New Testament printed in the Malayan language. The -translation was made and published, many years since, at the expense of -the pious and well-known philanthropist, Robert Boyle, when the place -was under the jurisdiction of the British Government, and was sent -forth into various parts of the island. The second school is in the -orphan-house, about a mile from the resident, on a piece of high ground -sloping towards the bay, of which it has a fine view: in front of this -building are several acres of land, substantially walled in with brick, -and covered with fruit-trees and vegetables. The boys are educated in -this school for agents, writers, &c. The principal articles of export -from Bencoolen, to which may be added Trippany or Bichos do Mar, and -some edible bird's-nests, have already been named. Coffee and rice are -raised here only in small quantities; they are imported from Padang for -home-consumption, and consequently are not articles for export. - -All the fruits common to tropical climates, and many which I am assured -are not known in any other part of India, flourish here in great -abundance. The animal used for domestic labour is the carbou, called -here carboo: he resembles the buffalo without any hump between the -fore-shoulders: although naturally of a dull, obstinate and capricious -nature, he acquires a habit of surprising docility; at the command of -his master, he lifts the shafts of the cart with his horns, places -the half yoke (which is secured at the end) across his neck, and then -stands quietly until he is secured. - -I have several times been amused to see three or four children climbing -on his neck, and seating themselves on his back, to take a ride. He was -easily governed, after they were seated, by a rope which passed through -the cartilage of the nose. He is a stout-built and strong animal, but -cannot endure much fatigue, and has shorter legs and larger hoofs than -the ox, with a thick sinewy neck. The horns of this animal are very -large and generally turn backward, being nearly square at the base. -Like the hog, he is fond of wallowing in the mire, and embraces every -opportunity to cover himself with it--being thus cooled and protected -from the heat of the sun, and from troublesome insects. - -The bay of Bencoolen is extensive, and so much exposed that, when -the sea-breeze commences, it throws in a heavy sea, and renders -it impossible to carry off sufficient water for a large number of -hands without causing a long delay. Owing to this cause, we were -unable readily to obtain the required supply of water; and yams and -bread-fruit being scarce, both of which we much needed, we took our -departure, leaving instructions for the "Boxer" to follow us to Manila. - -[Sidenote: DEATH OF THE RESIDENT.] - -Having taken leave of the very kind and hospitable Mr. Knoerle, the -resident, and of his companion, the Rev. W. C. Slingerland Conradi, -pastor of the Dutch Church, I shortly found myself once more on board. -I have lately received the afflicting intelligence that Mr. Knoerle, -while on a journey to Palembang, was murdered at the instigation of -some of the principal rajahs of Bencoolen. His body was literally cut -in pieces, and then burnt with great exultation, by the perpetrators -and their friends. The question naturally occurs, what could have -incited the rajahs to commit so atrocious and fiend-like an act? The -answer is--_revenge_, which is always deeply seated in the heart of a -Malay. - -Mr. Knoerle, imprudently, injured the happiness of many families by his -unrestrained passions, and thereby sealed his horrid fate. He should -ever have borne in mind that he lived among - - "Souls made of fire, and children of the sun, - With whom revenge is virtue." - - - - -CHAPTER III. - - SAILING FROM BENCOOLEN--ARRIVAL AT CROKATOA AND FORSAKEN - ISLANDS--SCENERY--BEAUTIFUL SUBMARINE GARDEN--BRITISH - FRIGATE--ARRIVAL AT ANGIER--SAILING FROM ANGIER--BAY AND CITY OF - MANILA--BUILDINGS--POPULATION--PROVISIONS--LABOUR. - - -On the last day of August, we weighed anchor at nine o'clock in the -evening, from Bencoolen bay, and aided by the current and a land -breeze, about midnight we once more found ourselves at sea. Owing to -light head-winds from the southeast, calms, contrary winds, and violent -squalls from the high mountains of Sumatra, accompanied with thunder -and lightning, we did not arrive at our anchorage ground, off the north -end of the island of Crokatoa, in the straits of Sunda, until the -eighth day after our departure from the bay. - -At daybreak the following morning, a boat was despatched in search of -inhabitants, fresh water, and yams; but, after three or four hours' -search, returned unsuccessful. Two other boats were then sent under -the command of the first lieutenant Mr. Cunningham: after a fruitless -search, that officer returned at sunset, after visiting Long Island -and Crokatoa. It was found difficult to effect a landing any where, -owing to a heavy surf and to the coral having extended itself to a -considerable distance from the shore. Hot springs only were found on -the eastern side of the latter island, one hundred and fifty feet from -the shore, boiling furiously up, through many fathoms of water. Early -on the succeeding morning, Capt. Geissinger, Lieutenant Fowler of the -marines, and myself, left the ship, on a visit to Forsaken island: we -flattered ourselves, as we approached the island, that the grateful -sound of many a murmuring rill, trickling down its steep and woody -sides, was heard by us--but we also were doomed to disappointment; -for, on landing, the sound was found to proceed from the singing of -locusts, which had obtained undisturbed possession of the island, and -were making sad ravages among the tender herbage. "No human footsteps -marked the trackless sand." - -In reconnoitring between Forsaken and Crokatoa islands, we were struck -with admiration at the great variety, both in form and colour, of an -extensive and highly beautiful submarine garden, over which the boat -was smoothly and slowly gliding. Corals of every shape and hue were -there--some resembling sunflowers and mushrooms; others, cabbages -from an inch to three feet in diameter: while a third bore a striking -likeness to the rose. - - "Some present - Large growth of what may seem the sparkling trees, - And shrubs of fairy land: while others shine - Conspicuous, and, in light apparel clad, - And fledged with snowy feathers, nod superb." - -The water was clear as crystal; not the slightest breeze ruffled its -glassy surface: the morning sun, having just freed the noble peak of -Crokatoa from its misty covering, shone forth with unusual splendour; -the sides of the hills, to their lofty summits, were clothed with -all the variety of fruit, forest, and flowering trees common to -intertropical climates: large flocks of parrots, shaking the dew of -night from their downy pinions, were seen wending their way towards -the palm-trees, in search of daily food; and monkeys in great variety -were commencing their lively gambols amid the wild-mango and orange -groves:--again, gazing in delighted wonder beneath us, we viewed the -superb scene of plants and flowers of every description, glowing in -vivid teints of purple, red, blue, brown, and green--equalling, in -richness and variety, the gayest parterre. A variety of small fish, -spotted, striped, and ringed, possessing every colour and shade, were -sporting in these regions of unsurpassed brilliancy and beauty. It was, -apparently, a great gala day; for they were revelling in great ease -and luxury, playing all sorts of gambols in their bright sea-homes, -unconscious of danger, and taking a full measure of enjoyment, in -their unrivalled retreats. That nothing might be wanting to complete -this gay scene of Nature's own choosing, shells of great variety and -shelves of coral, possessing every variety in colour, studded the -bottom; the superb Harpa, with its ribbed sides and straw-coloured -dress, slightly tinged with red and black; the Cyprea or Cowry of -almost every variety, covered with an epidermis or thin membrane to -protect its highly-polished surface; and many others, which might rival -the most delicate porcelain in whiteness and smoothness: there lay the -warlike Chiton, encased in his black coat-of-mail, ready for battle, -or adhering to the shell of a large Triton--the latter having closed -the entrance to his castle by a thick marble valve, which Nature had -provided as a protection against an enemy, or a barrier against the -rough beatings of a boisterous sea. Above, beneath, around us--all was -in harmony. - -A solemn stillness--broken only occasionally by the diving of a huge -turtle, the harsh note of the wild seabird, the singing of locusts, -or the shrill cry of the tiger-cat--reigned every where in the narrow -strait which separates the two islands. Disappointed in receiving the -so-much-needed supply of water and provisions, we weighed anchor the -same evening for Angier, in Java, and before daybreak, came to in -its roadstead. On our passage across, about midnight, we observed a -large ship bearing down for us. Immediately all hands were piped to -quarters--the battle-lanterns lit, fore and aft--the gun-deck cleared -of hammocks--the two-and-thirties loaded with round and grape shot, and -run out--the slow matches lighted and placed in their tubs--the marines -ranged along the quarter-deck, and the powder boys stationed from the -magazine to the gun-deck--the surgeons in the cockpit were displaying a -fearful array of bandages; and in five minutes the ship was ready for -action. As the vessel neared us, we found her to be no enemy, but his -Britannic majesty's ship Magicienne, from Batavia, bound to Bengal. So -we parted as we met--_friends_. May we never meet as enemies! - -[Sidenote: VISIT OF THE JAVANESE.] - -Day had scarcely made its appearance, ere the ship was surrounded -with Javanese canoes of all sizes, having outriggers to prevent their -oversetting, bringing fruits and vegetables, fowls, eggs, goats, -musk-deer, civet-cats, coloured and green doves; monkeys in great -variety; parrots, Java sparrows, having slate-coloured plumage and pink -bills, hats, shells, &c., for sale. Their strange mode of speaking the -English language, afforded much amusement to the whole crew: "Capetan, -you buy me fowl? Ib gotty fivety ten fowl, Capetan, he be great -biggy one; you buy Japa sparrow? Ib got uby, uby, yam, yam, plenty, -plenty, bery good; egg fowl, Capetan; fowl egg, Capetan, he be largy -one, biggy, biggy, all same as dat larangy, (pointing to a basket of -oranges,) I gib you Capetan, one hundred, five, ten, egg, (meaning one -hundred and fifteen,) sposey Capetan you gib me one dollar and one -quart;" (one dollar and a quarter.) - -All this was spoken with great rapidity and amid forcible -gesticulations. They were not at all abashed in asking a double price -for their articles, and stale eggs; the latter, they always endeavoured -to impose on us as new and fresh. The greatest curiosity I have yet -met with, is the musk-deer; it is in height nine and a half inches, -and twenty inches in length, from the top of the nose to the tail; has -large protruding round eyes, moderate-sized ears and a sleek, grayish, -dun-coloured coat, with beautiful slender legs and small hoofs. In -its shape it is a perfect deer, but has no horns. I have, at times, -seen this animal possessed of two scythe-shaped teeth, projecting from -the upper jaw and placed near the extremity of the mouth, pointing -recurvated backward. When irritated it would cut deeply with them and -strike with great rapidity. - -No covering beyond that of a waistcloth, was worn by the Javanese -boatmen, and but an additional breastcloth, by the females. An -odd-looking hat, which is in general use throughout the eastern seas, -is worn by both sexes; it is made of bamboo or palm-leaf, is impervious -to water, and may be likened to an old-fashioned painted dishcover, -divested of its brim. Both sexes chewed the areca-root to excess, and -were much disappointed that we could not supply them with opium, though -the penalty inflicted on them for its purchase, is slavery for life. -We paid a visit to Mr. Vogel, the commander of the Dutch fort, and met -with a very hospitable reception. - -[Sidenote: MARRIAGE CEREMONY.] - -The Camprongoe village of Angier contains about fourteen hundred -inhabitants, composed almost entirely of Javanese and Malays; it is -built on low ground, verging on a swamp, in the midst of palm-trees. -The houses, excepting perhaps a dozen, are of bamboo, roofed with -palm-leaf, and enclosed by a slight paling of wood. A bamboo bridge, -thrown across a ditch, conducted us to a very neat fortification; the -parade-ground on each side being shaded by rows of trees and having a -very pretty garden tastefully laid out and full of flowers, in front -of the commandant's house. During the two days which we remained, a -marriage-festival was in progress; when the seven days of public -rejoicing were finished the parties were to be united. These festivals -only take place among the children of the rajahs, or very rich men. -Every person who chooses to join the procession, is feasted at a house -provided for that purpose, during the festival. Were it not for the -presents of rice, bullocks, &c., sent by the friends of the betrothed, -the expense would be too burdensome; as many hundreds attend, even from -the neighbouring villages. - -The procession consisted of ladies and gentlemen, seated in separate -carts, persons on horseback and on foot, dressed in the gayest -habiliments which they could procure, carrying a great number of flags -of various colours and devices; and children dressed in yellow satin -trousers, their faces painted yellow, with large curved eyebrows and -fantastical caps. Great numbers of noisy instruments accompanied the -motley group, and the whole village was in an uproar, which ended only -with the setting sun. As we were passing the house of feasting, a -servant was sent out to solicit the honour of our company; we entered -the premises through two bands of musicians, who played on about thirty -instruments, which being struck by small hammers, made a tinkling sound. - -The master of the ceremonies received us with great politeness and -with much ceremony; he was habited in a robe of crimson, figured with -velvet, having a silk scarf thrown over his shoulders, and wearing a -turban; his teeth were of a deep black, owing to his excessive use of -areca and phunam, and his lips and gums were of a livid hue. Scarcely -were we seated, at a table set apart for our own use, in the midst of -many hundred hungry native revellers, ere twenty-seven dishes, composed -chiefly of sweetmeats, (there not being a particle of meat or fish,) -were upon the table. After tasting a little of each, to show that we -were gratified with the _whole_ entertainment, and partaking of a cup -of tea, we took our leave; areca was offered, as is customary, on our -entry and departure. During the repast, four Javanese stepped out -between the orchestra and danced for our amusement; their movements -were slow, but very graceful, the head looking downward, and the arms -as much in motion as the feet; the former being extended occasionally -rather above the head, and the palms being generally opened outward and -placed in every position, excepting that of closing or clenching. - -Two well-constructed piers at this place, running out from a shallow -creek, make a convenient harbour for small-craft, and near its upper -part, is an excellent place for procuring water, which is obtained by -a simple and expeditious process: a hose is connected with casks in -a boat beneath, the latter are filled in a few minutes, so that in -twenty-four hours the ship obtained twelve thousand gallons of water. - -Yams, sweet-potatoes, goats, fowls, and fruit were purchased in -abundance, but neither _flour_ or _bread_ could be obtained. Several -monkeys were purchased by the crew at Angiers. After the ship had -weighed anchor a female animal of this tribe, having a young one -clinging closely to the under part of her body, broke loose, ran with -great swiftness to the end of the spankerboom, and plunged into the -sea; a Javanese boat, towing astern, took them in; but not in time to -save the life of the younger; the female was then secured but refused -to eat, and remained till next morning in a state of melancholy. -Believing the animal would die, she was unloosed and running with -great precipitancy to the end of the boom, looked into the sea; but -not finding the object of her solicitude there, she looked overboard, -from every part of the ship, moaning most piteously. About this time, -she observed a small gray monkey, differing in species from herself, -having a very long tail; she at once seized the latter and hugged it -with great, seeming delight. The attempt to remove it from her would -have been in vain, had any one been disposed to make the trial; when -any of the sailors or the monkeys approached her, she would hug her -new object of affection with greater tenacity, run out her head, pout -disdainfully, and show a formidable row of white ivory; chattering and -scolding, at the same time most vehemently; occasionally she would -allow it to wander a few steps, holding on by the tip of the tail, -during the time; when too far, she would pull it backward, but if it -attempted to go beyond the length of its leading-string, (the tail,) -she would quickly drag it to her, box its ears, closely embrace it, and -after being reconciled, would feed it with some dainty morsel, stowed -away in her pouch. - -On a cold, stormy day, during our passage from La Plata to Sumatra, the -gun-deck being deluged with water, a Porto Praya monkey, a favourite -of mine, came to the cabin-door, and in its most expressive manner -solicited permission to enter; it stood shivering in the doorway, -dripping with saltwater, and looking the picture of distress, at -the same time snuffing up the warm air, proceeding from a stove; I -called it in, at length; the first object of its attention was the -stove, (never having seen one before,) but approaching too near, it -slightly burnt its nose, and quickly retreated, looking with much -astonishment at the cause; finally it sprung to the top of the table -and skipping about from one place to another, unfortunately alighted on -the stove, where it danced for a second or two, jumped precipitately -down, and came to me, showing its paws, (which were scorched white,) -and apparently asking for relief. I rubbed them with oil, at which the -animal appeared to be relieved; it then quietly took its station as -close to me as possible, testifying unquestionably, as much silent -gratitude as any human being could have done in a similar situation. - -[Sidenote: SAILING FROM ANGIER.] - -We sailed from Angier roadstead, for Manila, on the afternoon of -the following day, but owing to light airs we made slow progress -to the island of Lucepara; here we were obliged to anchor to find -sufficient depth of water to carry the ship into the straits of Banca. -After sounding with several boats, there was, at length, found a -channel, having about three feet more water than the ship drew. When -passing through the straits we were compelled frequently to anchor, -in consequence of the soundings disagreeing much with our miserable -charts. A fine breeze wafted us through these waters with great -rapidity, as far as Pulo Aor; from thence, until we were fairly to -the northward of the great group of shoals, lying towards the coast -of Palawan, we were more indebted to the current. On our passage from -Sumatra to the Philippines we passed through a considerable portion of -the archipelago of the east, where lie Borneo, Java, and Sumatra, the -Molucca and Philippine islands; where the sea is like a smooth bed on -which the islands seem to sleep in bliss--islands, in which the spice -and perfume gardens of the world, are embosomed; where the bird of -paradise, the golden pheasant, and a hundred other birds of brilliant -plumage, have their homes amid thickets so luxuriant, and scenery so -picturesque, that European strangers there find the fairy lands of -their youthful dreams. But our pleasing anticipations were at times -blighted with the apprehension of striking on some unknown shoal, or -encountering one of those tremendous typhoons for which the northern -coast of China, in the latter part of September, about the changing of -the monsoons, is so notorious. - -Thick squally weather attended by variable winds blowing sometimes from -the northern, and again from the southern quarter, wafted us rapidly to -the eastward, after doubling the shoals. We proceeded onward, assisted -by a strong current, until two o'clock in the morning of the thirtieth -of September, when a slight gleam of light appearing through the -mist, discovered to us mount and point Calavite, on the northwestern -extremity of Mendora islands. Shortly afterward, we descried Luban -and Cabia or (Goat) islands. At ten in the morning, we dropped anchor -between the island of Corregidor, and the mountain of Marivales on the -island of Luconia or Luzon. - -Our chronometers being useless, we were obliged for some time -previously to entering the China sea, to depend on our "dead -reckoning;" notwithstanding twenty-five or thirty miles a day was -allowed for a current setting to the eastward, after passing Pulo -Sapata, the allowance proved insufficient, as we had gained forty-five -miles over our reckoning. During the past month, the diarrhoea prevailed -among the crew, probably occasioned by a change of climate from cold to -extreme heat, from rainy weather, excess in fruit, and frequent change -in diet, but more particularly from the compulsory substitution of yams -for bread. - -Before we anchored, the ship was boarded by a Spanish officer, -despatched by the Corregidor to make the usual inquiries. Our arrival -was communicated by telegraph to Manila. The officer's boat was rowed -by sixteen Indians, and armed with four neat, small brass swivels, -small-arms, pikes, &c., to enable them to combat with the pirates who -occasionally frequent the bay, and to capture smugglers. - -Having previously paid the commandant and family a visit, by whom we -were received in a most hospitable manner, we landed in the morning -at the base of Marivales, in search of adventure. The ship anchored -the following afternoon, in the roadstead of Manila, about four miles -from the low-stone lighthouse, situated at the embouchure of the river -Pasig, and being only twenty miles from our first anchorage-ground. On -the succeeding morning, the captain of the port paid the usual visita, -(visit,) accompanied by Mr. Henry Sturgis, of the very respectable -American house of Russell and Sturgis, and Mr. Edwards, the American -consul. Having received a kind invitation from these gentlemen, to take -up our abode with them, I moved on shore, bag and baggage, to the house -of the latter gentleman, finely situated at St. Cruz, opposite the city -of Manila, and directly upon the banks of that beautiful river. - -[Sidenote: MANILA.] - -The noble bay of Manila is about forty-five leagues in circumference -and nearly free from dangers; the scenery is of a varied character: -mountains and hills are discernible in the distance, from Marivales, -sweeping in a circle around the bay, till the most lofty form the -eastern boundary of the island, the shores of which are washed, on one -side, by the ocean, and on the other, by the waters of Lago de Bria; -from the lake flows that rapid steam, the Pasig, (pronounced Parseek,) -into the bay, at the distance of twelve miles, watering a rich extent -of low land. - -The city of Manila lies on the south side of the river, and is enclosed -by dark stone-walls, having a broad and deep ditch; so high are the -city-walls, that only the red tiled-houses, and the towers and domes -of churches, can be seen in the distance above them. On entering the -city, you are struck with the stillness and gloomy appearance of the -streets, interrupted only occasionally by the march of soldiers going -to relieve guard in this garrisoned town, the rumbling of a solitary -carriage, the tinkling of a bell, announcing the approach of the host -on its way to administer the last religious rites to a dying sinner, -or a distant convent-bell summoning the religious to prayers. The -streets, although narrow, are kept clean, and have good "trottoirs;" -the great square in the centre of the city contains a fine bronze -statue of Charles the Fourth of Spain, erected by his _dutiful_ and -_affectionate son_, Ferdinand the beloved, so says the inscription on -the pedestal; three sides of the square are occupied by the cathedral -or church of the "Immaculate Conception," the consistorial palace, and -the palace of the governor-general. Manila contains about ten thousand -souls, and is garrisoned by two regiments of soldiers; at Binonda, -St. Cruz, and the villages in the vicinity, three more are stationed, -besides three thousand placed in different parts of the island. Of -these, twelve hundred only are Europeans, the remainder being Indians; -they are well clothed, fed, lodged, drilled, and paid. The houses are -built in a quadrangular form and are very massive, having covered -balconies, from the second story, projecting over the street; they are -generally spacious, well-furnished, and neat; the ground-floor, called -the "bodega," or "godown," is occupied as a magazine for goods, as a -stable, and for other purposes. Instead of lattice-work or glass, the -_mya_ shell is used, set in frames about four inches square; it affords -a very agreeable light, equal to that passing through ground-glass; the -windows thus formed extend round the house, can be slid at pleasure, -and render the dwellings light and airy; the second story is of thin -brick, or light framework, and plastered; the roof is covered with -tile, the framework being so constructed that it will readily yield to -the shock of an earthquake, (which is of very frequent occurrence,) -without being easily thrown down. A very large proportion of the -buildings, in the towns and villages, are in the native style, being -for the most part, owing to the low swampy ground, erected on piles -from three to six feet high, and are constructed with the bamboo or -palm-leaf; the interior is much exposed to view, as the windows made -with palm-leaf or bamboo lattice, occupy three fourths of their fronts -and are let down at daylight. - -Within them may be seen, in the evening, the Holy Virgin, surrounded -by lights and placed in a glass-case, dressed in a gay attire, holding -in her arms the infant Saviour; around her are seen the whole family, -at prayers, before retiring to rest, thanking her for the blessing -bestowed during the day and imploring her guardianship from all enemies -during the night; at other times, the inmates are chewing buyo or -areca nut, &c., smoking cigars, (of which they are immoderately fond,) -combing and oiling their long thick hair, or thrumming on the guitar -and singing. Sewing is but little attended to, as their dresses are -simple and their children are permitted to run about naked. They cook -twice daily on the outside of their houses; their fare consisting -principally of rice and some fruit, with an addition perhaps of a -fowl, some fish or _locusts_. All their washing is done at the river, -where they bathe daily. Every man among the Indians owns a game-cock, -and he frequently loses all he has, even to his waistcloth, in that -barbarous species of gambling, cock-fighting; the birds are armed with -scythe-shaped spurs, and one or both expire, generally, during the -first few rounds. The immense number of licensed cock-pits which are -found in every town and village, serves to show the prevalence of the -passion for this amusement. - -Manila is connected with the towns on the right bank of the river, by -means of a single bridge, built very neatly of stone, the arch of which -was thrown down a few years since by an earthquake, and is rebuilt of -wood. The commerce of the city is carried on at the right side of the -river, at Binondo, St. Cruz, &c.; that side having the advantage of -numerous natural canals or branches, from the main river, on which are -situated extensive warehouses, so that the cascoes, which are large -boats, having moveable or sliding roofs, in sections of about six -feet in length, can land their goods immediately at the wharf without -exposure to the weather. - -The city of Manila, within the walls, was computed by a census taken -in 1818, to contain a population of six thousand eight hundred and -seventy-five, exclusive of the military. Buildings which rent from -five to fourteen hundred dollars per annum, in Binondo, contiguous to -the river and its branches, will not in Manila, rent for more than -one fourth of that sum, owing to its want of water communication, yet -the government have very inconveniently placed the new and extensive -custom-house close to the city-walls. There are about seven thousand -Chinese settled here; all the Europeans, including the military, do -not exceed twenty-five hundred; the rest are Indians, who, were they -aware of their strength, might easily wipe from the face of existence, -the handful of Europeans and other foreigners, who hold them and their -lands in subjection. - -Provisions are so low in value, that it is said four dollars -will furnish a labourer, in rice, &c., sufficient for his yearly -consumption. Labour is exceedingly low; the wages for a servant-man, -being from one to one and a half dollars per month. Rice has been -sold here for three quarters of a dollar the caban of one hundred and -thirty pounds: at this time it is double that price, in consequence of -vast quantities having been shipped to Canton. A person possessing the -immense sum of twenty-five dollars is considered, among the Indians, -as "passing rich," and immediately quits labour to _keep shop_ in the -street, with a moveable stall, or in front of his bamboo-hut; the -_goods_ usually consist of burgo, alias areca nut, and betel-leaf, -well prepared with liquid chunam for immediate mastication, cocoa-nut -oil, a little coarse pottery, wooden shoes, palm-leaf hats, and -perhaps a few mats. A great number of the shops contain only the -first-named article, and the stock in trade may possibly amount to the -sum of two rials, (twenty-five cents;) here they sit cross-legged, -during the whole day, or, desiring a change, sideways, on a gridiron -bamboo-seat. I have frequently feared the whole stock in trade, would -be ejected into the street by their insatiable masticatory powers, but -occasionally seeing the havoc they are making, and fearful of becoming -bankrupts, they thrust a corner of one of the handspike cigars (which -are in common use) into their mouths and finish off the evening with -it. - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - - MANILA CONTINUED--CALZADA--SEA-CUCUMBER--CIGAR-FACTORY - AT BINONDO--EXPORTS--DUTIES--WEIGHTS AND - CURRENCY--EXCHANGE--IMPORTS--LUZON--CAVITE--HURRICANES--LAGO DE - BRIA--PINA--INDIAN AND BUFFALO--VISITS TO THE ALCADE. - - -There is a fashionable drive in Manila, called the Calzada, -encompassing, probably, two thirds of the circumference of Manila: -it passes over a low, level piece of ground, bordering on the fosse -or ditch of the city on one side, and on the open country and -parade-ground fronting the bay, on the other. Along this drive, -carriages may be seen rolling, filled with well-dressed ladies, but -mostly of a dark complexion, (Mestizoes,) smoking cigars with most -perfect nonchalance: some are puffing paper cigars--others, those which -resemble, in size, Havanas; and again others, a ponderous article which -would occupy an indefatigable smoker a week or ten days. - -There are no public houses in the neighbourhood, and the only amusement -is a dull drive at sunset, day after day, over the same grounds, in -preference to others infinitely more pleasant, stopping occasionally -to light a cigar from a slow match: this latter article is carried by -boys, who infest the road, making loud and frequent vociferations, -going upon the full run. The market is abundantly supplied with beef, -fish, fowls, ducks, turkeys, geese, fruit, and vegetables. A large -proportion of the labouring class take their meals in the street, -from the innumerable venders which occupy the sidewalks, to the great -annoyance of pedestrians. Among the strange articles exposed for sale -in every street are fried locusts, made into a curry. That disgusting -looking fish, called by some ichthyologists, Holothurial--sea-cucumber -and sea-slug by the English--Bichos do Mar by the Portuguese--Tripango -or Trippany by the Javanese--Swala by the Sumatrans--and Balate by the -Philippine islanders, is in common use among the Chinese and Europeans. -I have eaten it made into a soup or stew: it has a taste between the -green fat of a turtle and the soft gristle of boiled beef, and is said -to be very nutritious, but not equal to the edible bird's-nests, or -nests of the sea-swallow of these seas. No less than five thousand, -four hundred and eighty-six piculs of one hundred and thirty-seven -pounds each, equal to seven hundred and sixty-eight thousand and forty -pounds, were shipped from this port to Canton last year, as appears by -the custom-house returns, besides a large quantity smuggled. By far -the larger portion is brought here by American vessels from the Fejee -islands. These fish resemble, when contracted, a cucumber, and it is -difficult to discover the eyes and mouth: some are black, others white, -gray, &c.: they are, at present, sold at fourteen dollars per picul, -the cargo. - -The land in the vicinity, for many miles, is low and marshy, but neatly -cultivated with rice. It is surprising that health should be enjoyed at -all in the midst of rice-swamps, in this sultry climate: thousands of -huts are built in the midst of them, when it would prove fatal to the -whole population in almost any other country. The healthiness of the -climate, I think, must be attributed to the narrowness of that part of -the island, and to the constant and refreshing breezes which dissipate -its miasma. The bamboo is one of the most useful among the vegetable -creation--houses, chairs, fences, settees, buckets, boxes, baskets, -hats, drinking-cups, fans, mats for boats, spear-handles, sails, &c., -are made of its wood; while the tender root is served up at the table, -boiled and roasted, used as a pickle and as a sweetmeat. I visited the -celebrated great cigar-factory at Binondo; about five thousand females -are employed in it, and about six hundred men: it is a royal monopoly. -Every person is searched twice a day to see if he pilfers any of his -majesty's tobacco--he being the sole owner and master of the factory. - -[Sidenote: MANILA--EXPORTS.] - -The principal articles exported, (except gold and silver,) were indigo, -sugar, rice, hemp or abacia, cotton, cocoa-nut oil, sulphur, balate, or -bichos do mar, coffee, wax and hides, in the following proportions:-- - -Indigo, thirty-one thousand, one hundred and nineteen arrobas, of -which twenty-five thousand were agua rose or liquid, in jars; sugar, -six hundred and seventeen thousand, seven hundred and thirty-eight -arrobas, excepting eighteen thousand arrobas of the first quality; -rice, one million, seventy-four thousand, one hundred and seventy -arrobas, including two hundred thousand, uncleaned; hemp, or abacia, -one hundred and fifty-three thousand, four hundred and forty-seven -arrobas--it is of two qualities, and is called, in the United States, -Manila-grass or hemp; cotton, four thousand one hundred and ninety-five -arrobas; cocoa-nut oil, six thousand, nine hundred and sixty-four -arrobas; sulphur, two thousand, four hundred and eighty arrobas; balate -or bichos do mar, five thousand, four hundred and eighty-six arrobas; -coffee, fourteen thousand, six hundred and twenty-five arrobas; hides, -twenty-nine thousand, nine hundred and fifty-eight arrobas. - -The minor articles of export are dried shark's fins, oysters, muscles, -shrimps and other dried fish, oil of sesamum, edible bird's-nests, -ploughs, hatchets, knives, cowries, rattans, canes, sail-cloth of -yeacos, dammer or pitch, tortoise-shell, horns, mother-of-pearl, -shells, tallow, shoes and boots, chocolate, soap, cigars, tobacco, -saltpetre, lard, dried deer and ox sinews, birds of paradise, wheat, -flour and bread, mats and palm hats, cigar-cases, rum, molasses, -sugar-candy, sweetmeats, groundnuts, gomuti or sagwire, cabinet -furniture, ebony and Japan woods, and Agal, a species of sea-weed, -or rather dulse, dissoluble into a glutinous substance, and used in -China as a valuable paste: also sinamaya, a fine cloth, made from the -avaca; and pina, which is a narrow cloth, made from the fibres of the -pineapple; it is, deservedly, considered as one of the most beautiful -fabrics in the world--is transparent, of a great variety of beautiful -patterns, and equal in the fineness of its texture to cobweb-muslin. -A large portion of the rice is exported to Canton by Americans, to -save the measurement duty, or to Lintin when they proceed elsewhere to -purchase other than China goods. Occasionally the export is prohibited, -either from scarcity or the caprice of the government. - -The export of hemp, abaca or avaca, in the year 1829, was eight -thousand, four hundred and one piculs: in 1832, it had increased to -thirty-seven thousand, five hundred:--this article is the fibrous bark -of a wild banana, (musa textilis,) which grows abundantly in all the -Philippine islands. Gomuti or sagwire is exported in its natural state, -or made into cables, &c.: it resembles very coarse black horse-hair--is -the produce of the borassus gomuti or aren palm, which yields the -sagwire for cordage, and is found lying between the trunk and the -branches, on a soft gossamer-like texture, which is used in calking the -seams of ships: it also makes a useful tinder for kindling fire--grows -luxuriantly, away from the seacoast, but never produces more than two -crops of the sagwire. - -The cocoa-nut oil is mostly shipped to Singapore, and from thence to -England, where it is manufactured into candles: it is of two qualities; -the best is boiled from the green nut--the ordinary kind is ground -from nuts, broken and exposed some days to the sun: the first quality, -only, is bought for shipping; as casks cannot be obtained, it is sold -in jars, and readily congeals when the thermometer is at 70 deg.. Wheat -is raised in abundance, and ship-bread, of a very superior quality, -is generally sold at from four to five dollars the hundred pounds. As -salted beef, pork, butter, and hams, are purchased only by foreign -captains, they are of very slow and uncertain sale. - -The _Import Duty_ in foreign vessels is fourteen per centum, Spanish; -the _Export Duty_, three per centum, excepting on hemp, which is free. -The importations for the year 1831 amounted to one million, seven -hundred and ninety-four thousand, three hundred and seventy-nine -dollars; the exports for the same period, to one million, four hundred -and fourteen thousand, seven hundred and ten dollars. - -The gold and silver imported, amounted to three hundred and -thirty-seven thousand, two hundred and eighty-seven dollars, and the -amount exported, on which duties were paid, was forty-nine thousand, -two hundred and nineteen dollars. A large sum in gold, silver, and -in the dust produced in the island, is smuggled out of the country, -principally by the Chinese. - -_Weights._--The quintal is four Spanish arrobas of twenty-five pounds. -The picul is here one hundred and thirty-seven pounds, Spanish, or one -hundred and forty pounds, English. - -The _currency_ of the island is dollars and their parts, and doubloons; -the latter being worth sixteen dollars. _Exchange_ on London was four -and a half prem.; on Canton, two per cent. discount: but it necessarily -fluctuates very materially. - -The _imports_ are British, India, and China goods, wines, sheathing -copper and nails, iron and steel, cocoa from Peru, &c. During the -southwest or foul monsoon, the shipping lies at Cavite, and in the -northeast or fair monsoon, (from October to April,) from three to five -miles from the entrance to Pasig, below the bridge which unites Manila -with Binondo. - -[Sidenote: POPULATION--TAXES.] - -The _population_ of the archipelago of the Philippine islands, -according to the returns made, in the year 1792, was one million, four -hundred thousand, four hundred and sixty-five; in 1805, one million, -seven hundred and thirty-nine thousand, two hundred and five; in -1812, one million, nine hundred and eleven thousand, five hundred -and thirty-five; in 1815, one million, nine hundred and twenty-seven -thousand, eight hundred and forty; in 1817, two millions, sixty-three -thousand, three hundred and ninety-five; in 1818, two millions, two -hundred and forty-nine thousand, eight hundred and fifty-two. - -The increase in twenty-six years, from 1792 to 1818, was about sixty -per cent.; if to this be added thirty-seven per cent. for the increase -in sixteen years, from 1818 to 1834, the population at present amounts -to three millions, one hundred and twelve thousand, two hundred and -ninety-seven. The island of Luzon had a population of one hundred and -forty-nine thousand, six hundred and ninety-five: if to this we add -thirty-seven per cent. up to 1834, it will give two hundred and five -thousand and eighty two. Of this number, nearly one half is within -a circuit of twelve miles of the capital. The number of the negro -race, called Aetes, Ygorzotes, or Papuas, was estimated at seventeen -thousand, three hundred and fifty-five: this number does not include -many thousands, probably, who live among the fastnesses of the -mountains. - -The principal object of the Spanish government in ascertaining the -number of inhabitants, was to levy a capitation tax; in some cases as -low as one rial per head--in others, twelve rials. The Chinese pay a -much higher tax than any other foreigners; the traders, in 1832, paid -six dollars per annum--the common labourers, half that amount. The -latter tax forced many of the poorer class to emigrate: the Spanish -government is afraid of them, and wishes also to employ the natives of -the country; it therefore laid this heavy impost for the purpose of -driving them away. - -No foreigners have permission to remain there, even to this day, as -permanent settlers: they are liable to be ordered out of the country -by the governor at any moment, and this right is not unfrequently -exercised. - -The island of Luzon, which derives its name from Luzong, a large -wooden mortar used by the natives for cleaning rice, was discovered -in 1521, and in 1571, Manila was founded. The discoverers found the -country about Manila thickly settled with an active people called -Tagalor; at the north of this nation they met with and conquered -the Pampangoes, Zambales, Pangasinanes, Yloeds, and Cagayanes: at -the eastward of the Tagaloes were the Camarines. Each of these was -a distinct people, having a particular language. None of them had a -sovereign or chief magistrate; they were divided into a great number -of small villages, containing from fifty to one hundred families, -each governed by a chief, who was chosen for his wisdom and his deeds -in arms. These petty states were continually at war with each other, -making slaves of their unfortunate prisoners--the mountains were then, -as now, inhabited by the negro race, common to many of the islands in -the eastern archipelago. These different races of people, with the -exception of about ten thousand, still form the population of the -island. - -[Sidenote: CAVITE--PASIG.] - -Three leagues from Manila is Cavite, called by the natives Caveit, -because it is a crooked point of land extending into the sea. (Here is -a small arsenal, and some small vessels are built, and occasionally a -ship of war. It was formerly the resort of the Acapulco ships, before -South America freed herself and commerce from the shackles which -deprived her of all participation in a free trade.) The natives were -found to have all the necessaries of life--rice, beans, millet, camote, -a species of potato, pine-apples, oranges, mangoes, hogs, ducks, fowls, -goats, and buffaloes, were in abundance. The island abounded in deer, -wild pigeons, and other game; the gomuti-palm yielded them, when fresh, -a pleasant beverage--when fermented, an intoxicating liquor: the pith -furnished with sugar--when the liquor was properly boiled down, a -farina, inferior to sago, and of the inside of its triangular-shaped -fruit a sweetmeat was made. The cocoa-palm afforded a delicious -beverage, and oil for cooking or burning: the areca-palm with its nut, -and the betel-leaf, produced their favourite buyo. The lakes, rivers, -bays, and ocean, swarmed with myriads of fish, which they ensnared in -the most ingenious manner, with nets, lines, &c. - -The island is traversed by a chain of mountains, extending from north -to south, from which others branch out; some are found isolated, in the -midst of plains, while others are surrounded by water. Volcanoes are -found in various parts; between the provinces of Albay and Camorines -is the Mayon, shaped like an obtuse peak; it forms a good landmark for -navigators; there is also at Taal a similarly-shaped mountain in the -midst of a lagoon; it is called Bombou. Hot springs are found in many -places. The island suffers at times from the effects of tremendous -earthquakes, which destroy massive buildings, rend asunder the solid -walls of Manila, and shake the mountain in the ocean, to its centre. -The volcanoes, also, overwhelm whole villages with ashes, stones, -sand, and water; making steril, verdant fields; carrying ruin within -its influence, and destroying the hopes of the poor husbandman. It is -subject also to desolating typhoons or hurricanes, sweeping in their -erratic course, hundreds of slight-built huts, prostrating the largest -trees, dismasting or foundering at their anchor, numerous vessels, and -driving on shore or wrecking others, for nothing moveable at times can -withstand these mighty winds. The hopes of the planter are also, in a -few hours, destroyed by devastating clouds of locusts, which infest the -land, devouring in their course every green thing. - -Possessing a humid and warm atmosphere, the soil naturally yields an -abundance of the necessaries of life, but the seasons generate many -fatal diseases. - -[Sidenote: PASIG.] - -On Manila Sunday, (our Monday,) a party of eight, one beautiful -morning, before sunrise, proceeded in three veloches (carriages of -a certain description) to the village of Santa Anna, distant about -three miles over a fine road and highly-cultivated country, where we -embarked on board two large bankas of about eight-and-thirty feet in -length, dug out of a tree, having a light bamboo-roof which could be -elevated or depressed at pleasure, and paddled by four Indians. Between -eight and nine o'clock, we arrived at the town of Pasig, situated -about three miles from the entrance of the lake; the passage up was -delightful--the land bordering on the river was low but well cultivated -with rice, sugar-cane, &c., and fruit; it was one continuous village on -either bank. Being a holyday, the natives were well and gayly dressed; -hundreds of canoes passed us, laden with fish from the lake; others -with fruit, vegetables, eggs, areca-nut and betel-leaf, beef, pork, -fowls, ducks, geese, turkeys, cocoa-nut oil, molasses and sugar, cloth, -of various kinds, baskets, mats, hats, &c., made of bamboo, all under -cover of the moveable roof; they were paddled by an equal number of -men and women, all apparently, in good spirits, and having always at -hand a joke, to bandy with our canoe-men, in the Taga language; they -were hurrying on to the great markets at Manila and Binonda, to dispose -of their various articles. On the shores, men, women, and children -were fishing with every sort of contrivance that can be named, in -the shape of nets, hooks, and lines; some men with nets scraping up -the mud from the bottom to obtain shrimps, which they found in great -abundance; others taking very large craw-fish. Hundreds were bathing -in the river, near the banks; whole families were seen together, from -the grand-mother to the grand-daughter, washing their long black hair -with vegetable soap, called by the natives gogo, being the inner-rind -of a tree growing here in great plenty. Many of the palm and bamboo -cottages were erected on piles close to the bank of the river, and -some canoes were made fast to the ladder ready for any of the family -to take an excursion, when they wished to go to the village-church, -or to gossip with a neighbour and partake of his hospitalities, which -consist of Burgo and a cigar, a fishing-party, a main of fighting-cocks -or a boat-race. The fronts of the houses being open, all the operations -of the various families could be distinctly seen. We met with many -hotels, alias eating-shops, placed on piles some distance from the -shore, where our boatmen stopped to obtain their breakfast, which -consisted of rice, shrimp and other fish, in abundance, for which they -paid about two cents per head. Many loungers were reposing on the -bamboo-flooring, smoking or chewing burgo, flirting with the young -damsels, who were indulging themselves in the same luxury as their -beaux; at the same time, perhaps, combing out and oiling their hair, -which generally reaches to the waist, and occasionally adjusting -their tapa or outer-cloth, which is either of striped silk or cotton, -extending halfway below the knee; some wore a nicely-laced embroidered -muslin handkerchief on their heads and shoulders; their feet, or rather -toes, are covered with scant and showy slippers, having no heels nor -any quarters, cut down within an inch and a half of the end; these -were well bespangled, and some of them bound with a stripe of gold or -silver lace; they are only worn on special occasions, by particular -individuals; a large proportion of the people go barefooted, or wear a -high wooden shoe, plain or ornamented with brocaded or spangled-velvet, -or gilt-leather. Every man who is able, wears shirts of the truly -beautiful pina, or cloth made of the fibres of the pine-apple, which -is manufactured on the island. The shirts, made from this cloth, -as fine as cobweb-muslin, beautifully embroidered about the bosom, -collar, and wristbands, are worn by all the Indians and Mestizoes, -on the outside of the trousers; the latter are made of pina, or fine -grass-cloth, (called siramaya,) according to the ability of the owner. -As for stockings, they are about as useful to a young Tagalo girl, as -knee-breeches to a Scotch-highlander. - -Reclining on our gay pillow, stretched at ease, full length, on a -clean mat, laid on a raised bamboo-floor, discussing the merits of -cold roast fowl, ham, and tongue; a bottle of claret, and a bottle of -porter for our breakfast, I thought there were not many persons in the -world more comfortably situated for the time being. We stayed for a -short time at the house of the alcade of Pasig, a native gentleman of -Tagola parentage, and were hospitably invited to dinner. Having walked -through the town, visited the church and bazar, (which we found well -stocked with rice and fish,) we returned to the lake. The late heavy -rains had so swollen its waters that our canoes were paddled across -extensive paddy fields, where we met with others, fishing; we passed -close to several large craft, having two masts but no bowsprits, with -large mat sails, cables, and wooden anchors of various shapes. They -were clumsily constructed and badly rigged, but gayly painted on their -high bow-boards and on each quarter; the high stern was also painted -with flowers and a figure of the patron-saint after which the vessel -was named, in the gayest colours. There was nothing to be seen, on this -part of the excursion, excepting a wide expanse of water; mountains and -hills, in the distance, and fishing-snares placed in every direction. -Game of various kinds abounds among the hills, affording fine hunting. -Boa-constrictors and other reptiles may be found in abundance, and in -the creeks, alligators of an immense size. In the lake there are said -to be one hundred different varieties of fish; but it requires a week's -leisure, a suitable banka, with many et ceteras, to enjoy the manifold -beauties with which this sheet of water is reputed to be surrounded. -We were much amused when on our passage to the lake, in discovering, -at a distance, a man floating with the stream and seated upright in -the water; we were unable immediately to discover what supported him -in that position, but shortly after we descried the projecting nose of -an enormous carabou or Indian buffalo. The Indian appeared to be quite -at his ease, sitting astride the ponderous animal, smoking one of the -immense-sized cigars I have before mentioned, and which would last out -a reasonable cruise. With the left hand he grasped the animal's tail, -to support him in the current, and a rope passed through the nose (the -usual custom here) served to direct the _figure-head_ to any part to -which he fancied to go. He was hailed by our Indians and asked where he -was bound; he replied he was on his way to pay visits to some Senoritas -down the river, and, subsequently, was going to Manila, to sell his -carabou, (a distance of about ten miles.) - -[Sidenote: PATERO.] - -The scene was occasionally enlivened by the sound of a guitar, -proceeding from a canoe or a cottage on the shore. Rafts of cocoa-nuts, -containing many thousands, guided by a single man standing in the -centre of them, holding a long pole, with other rafts, of bamboo and -timber, were constantly passing us. On our return from the lakes we -visited several small streams on the left hand of the river, on which -is situated an extensive village called Patero, alias Duck-town--a -very appropriate name for the place, for I never before saw so many -ducks together; the cottages were standing very near to each other, and -thousands of these birds were feeding on the river, being secured by -a slight fence made of bamboo. Raising ducks and fishing seemed to be -the only employment. Every thing about the inhabitants wore a rustic -appearance, which was heightened, in a certain degree, by the plantain -and mango trees, overshadowing their picturesque habitations: some were -washing clothes in the stream, others, cooking in the open air--many -were stretched out at full length, asleep; children were hanging in -cots under the shadowy branches of the trees, soothed by gentle breezes -which rocked them to sleep--others, of a larger growth, in a state of -nudity, were playing with the ducks, sailing mimic boats, or making -_dirt-puddings_--not a few in number were diverting themselves with -cock-fighting--others were endeavouring to make a little musick, and -some were playing the game of draughts, with small stones. A portion -of the young Indian girls (Tagalos) were decorating or anointing -their pretty persons--others were paddling about in small canoes, -which they would occasionally upset to create a hearty laugh and -then, like dripping Naiads, again scrambling into them, would repeat -the same frolic. This village, or a succession of villages, extends -several miles along various outlets from the main river, from which no -portion of it can be seen, being completely hidden by the trees on the -banks; it contained, in 1818, three thousand, eight hundred and forty -inhabitants, all Indians; at this period, 1834, it has, probably, four -thousand, five hundred souls. - -We returned to the hospitable alcade's house about two, being only -a couple of miles from Patero, where we found a sumptuous dinner, -consisting of not less than twelve dishes of fish and meat, with a -variety of sweetmeats, fruit and coffee, (but no wine or spirits,) and -then cigars and buyo, for those who chose them. We did ample justice -to this repast, although nearly burnt up with a hot sun. This town, or -rather cluster of villages, is inhabited wholly by Indians, principally -Tagalos, and contained in 1818, twelve thousand, one hundred and forty -souls; at the present period, it has probably a population of fifteen -thousand; the houses are mostly built of bamboo and palm, and stand -on piles. In violent typhoons it is found necessary to secure them -with ropes, passed over the roofs, and fastened to strong posts. Their -elevation on piles is found a necessary security against the lake, -which occasionally, after violent rains, spreads its wide stream over -all the lowlands bordering upon it. The inhabitants raise cane and rice -in large quantities, with some wheat, Indian corn, fruits, &c. Fishing, -more or less, is the occupation of every one; they, apparently, live in -great simplicity and comfort, wanting nothing. A considerable quantity -of sugar is made here, there being several extensive buildings for -that purpose. Having taken leave of our kind host, we proceeded down -the river to Manila, and again were much delighted with the richness, -beauty and variety of the scenery. The mango with its umbrageous arms, -affording a delightful shade to the weary traveller--the plantain -and the banana, disputing every foot of ground, on the banks of the -river, the tall and graceful bamboo overtopping every thing around -it--extensive fields of cane, waving gently their green leaves to the -passing breeze, with fields of paddy, exhibiting the green spiral -leaf of the plant above the flooded meadows; numberless cottages were -seen, deeply seated in the midst of luxuriant fruit-trees, and a -massive church or convent was always in view, in some delightful spot. -Again we met Indians, of both sexes, fishing or bathing, going upon a -water-excursion, or to a ball, to chew buyo, to have a little chit-chat -or scandal with a neighbour, or visit a holy friar of a neighbouring -convent. These rapid and varied scenes, with our agreeable company, -afforded us much pleasure as we lay in our bankas, enjoying the rapid -passing views, which lapse of years cannot efface, exhibiting a rural -picture of great simplicity and beauty; the principal actors being a -race of Indians noted for the mildness of their tempers and for their -great hospitality. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - - DEPARTURE FROM MANILA--CHOLERA--CAPE BOLINA--CHINESE - VESSELS--PILOT--MACAO--LINTING--VILLAGE--WHAMPOA--JOS - HOUSES--SACRIFICE--ARRIVAL AT CANTON--RIVER AND BOATS--DESCRIPTION - OF CANTON--GREAT IDOL TEMPLE--LEGEND OF THE JOS HOUSE--RELIGIOUS - CEREMONIES--MINOR TEMPLES. - - -We had spent a fortnight most pleasantly at Manila, when the painful -intelligence was received, that the Asiatic or spasmodic cholera had -suddenly made its appearance on board the Peacock. It has been already -stated that the diarrhoea and dysentery were prevalent among the crew, -on the passage from Angier to Manila. These diseases were ascribed, -among other causes, to the want of bread and the substitution of yams, -&c. The cholera could not have arisen from any want of cleanliness, -for our ship, from her keelson to her royal truck, was kept thoroughly -clean and in the finest order, both at sea and in port. The united -causes which produced this malady were, probably, change of food, -the great quantities of fruit used by the crew, and the arrival of -the season of the year, (about the change of the monsoons in the -bay,) which is generally unhealthy. The first case was in a sailor, -named Peterson, sixty-three years old. He had made a hearty meal on -bean soup, with pork, and about an hour afterward the first symptoms -made their appearance; the evacuations became copious, coldness and -insensibility supervened; the pulse became scarcely perceptible; the -countenance livid, ghastly, and sunken; spasms attacked the lower -extremities; and the surface was covered with a cold, clammy sweat. The -surgeon administered six grains of opium, in three doses; bad symptoms -increasing, fifteen drops of cajeput oil were given in brandy and -water, and repeated in half an hour. After the last dose of opium there -were no evacuations, but the spasms had increased, extended to the -abdominal muscles, and caused such extreme distress, that it required -three or four men to hold the sufferer in his hammock; his groanings -and screamings were violent and frightful. In three or four hours -the spasms ceased. Notwithstanding the internal and external use of -the most powerful stimulants, the prostration increased, and, at four -o'clock in the morning, he was happily relieved from all the pains and -troubles of this life. Another case, was that of a seaman, named North; -he was found at eight o'clock in the evening, lying on deck, totally -unable to rise, from extreme prostration. Death had, apparently, -struck an instantaneous and a heavy blow; the victim was already -clutched in its most loathsome and terrific embraces; the evacuations -were of the usual character; in a few minutes, the pulse was scarce -perceptible; the surface, cold and covered with a viscid perspiration; -the countenance, dreadfully sunken, livid, and cadaverous; respiration -became laborious, and the sufferer was tortured with severe spasms, in -all his limbs and the abdominal muscles, which caused indescribable -distress. Notwithstanding every known remedy was applied, the spasms -became more general and severe; the respiration more difficult; -the distress more insupportable; the prostration increased until -insensibility supervened, and death finally closed the terrific scene, -eleven hours after the attack. I have selected but two, out of many -cases, which will serve to show the terrific and appalling effects -produced by one of the greatest scourges that ever visited the world. - -Finding the disease fast spreading, and fearful that it might sweep -off a large portion of the crew, orders were given to get the ship -ready for sea, when sufficient provisions could be obtained, and to -seek a more salubrious air and the chances of health, in the China sea. -To be compelled to leave a comparatively healthy and pleasant abode -on shore, for a floating hospital, tainted with a highly infectious -atmosphere, was painful and dangerous, but such was our lot; for thirty -sick-hammocks were slung on the starboard side of the gun-deck, when we -weighed anchor, and a panic was visible in the countenances of nearly -the whole crew. We finally, lost seven men, but many of those who were -attacked and recovered, suffered from impaired constitutions, became -the victims to other diseases, and eventually died. - -We got under way towards sunset, on the second of November, and having -passed close under the stern of his Britannic majesty's ship Alligator, -to take leave of Captain Lambert, her amiable and worthy commander, -together with our friends, Messrs. Strachan, Sturges, and Edwards, of -Manila, who were assembled on her quarter-deck for that purpose, the -British flag being run up at our main; during this exchange of friendly -salutations, we filled away with a fine breeze, and in about three -hours, passed the island of Correjidor, and stood out to sea. For the -two following days the wind was very light; on the third, we made cape -Bolina. - -[Sidenote: CHINESE VESSELS.] - -Returning health was very visible among the crew in this short space of -time: no new case of cholera occurred after we inhaled the invigorating -and healthy ocean air. On the fifth day our _barbarian eyes_ were -_blessed_ with a sight of the _celestial empire_, consisting of several -islands. Seventy or eighty miles from land, we fell in with a great -number of fishing junks, of clumsy construction, having the appearance -of the antediluvian vessels exhibited in the old bibles, with mat or -bamboo sails; they were always observed in pairs, having whole families -of the "celestials" in them, dressed in the ordinary garb of common, -dirty fishermen; generally without any covering to the head--but little -to the back, and that in a most filthy condition. When within two -leagues of the Lemma or Ladrone islands, a junk lowered her sails close -to us, and in about five minutes, two of the "heavenly creatures" came -on board, in a small skiff, offering themselves as pilots, being as -guiltless of any knowledge of our language as we were of theirs; they -were dressed in tan-coloured jackets and immense wide breeches, or -rather petticoat trousers, reaching just below the knee, and wearing -a greasy woollen cap--shirts have never been in fashion with them. -They were very uncleanly in their persons, stout built, and healthy. -Having stepped on board, the first words they uttered, were, "Capetany -me peloto--you wanty peloto?" "Yes," said the captain. "How muchy, how -muchy, capetany, you gib?" taking at the same time, from the waistband -of his trousers, twenty Chinese cash, and counting them in his hand, -he said, "Dollar, dollar, so muchy, so muchy." The captain counted out -one half the number, which was the usual pilotage to Macao roads. The -"celestial" then added three to the number, making thirteen, and the -bargain was made, he not forgetting to ask, as is usual, for a bottle -of samshew, (rum,) which he snugly stowed away in his bosom. Scarcely -had he taken half a dozen strides up and down the deck, and pointed to -steer more to port, before he asked for chow, chow, meaning something -to eat, which, to his astonished eyes, was furnished forthwith, in a -lordly dish, on a chest on the quarter-deck. He pointed occasionally -to starboard or larboard, through the labyrinths of islands. In the -course of four or five hours we anchored under the mountainous island -of Lautavee, during the night. The pilot, having received his money -next morning, with a countenance indicative of extreme happiness, and -ascertained carefully, that every dollar was good, took his leave, -having been almost useless. I went over to Macao the next morning, -passing through a fleet of sampans, (small boats,) navigated by -damsels, that one might almost deem amphibious, in which dwell whole -families, in a most miserable condition. I landed close to the quay, -leading to the Beach Hotel, kept by Markwick, an Englishman, fronting -on Pria Grande, a public walk, without trees, facing the outer harbour -and islands. The ship finally anchored at Linting, (Ling-ting,) which -is eighteen miles from Macao, and twenty-five from the Bogue, or mouth -of the river. This island was scarcely inhabited till 1814, when, in -consequence of a dispute between the British and Chinese, the company's -ships remained here for some time. Population increasing, supplies of -vegetables and beef became plentiful, and induced American and other -ships to make it a place of rendezvous; but the importation of opium -being prohibited, both at Canton and Macao, at this time, the vessels -engaged in importing that article, repaired to this anchorage, when -they found every facility through Chinese boats, to smuggle or to -purchase it. This was the origin of the opium go-downs, as they are -technically called, or receiving ships, for this and other articles -for the Canton market. There are now, in 1832, from seven to eight -ships engaged in this illegal traffic. Among this number there is one -American vessel, the Linting, and occasionally there are two. In the -commencement of the northeast monsoon, in October, ships repair to this -place, where they usually lie to the end of April; when the southwest -monsoon commencing, they remove to the north end of the island, where -they stay six weeks, and then remove to Cap-sin-moon, (Cap-shuy-moon,) -a more secure, but less convenient anchorage.[A] There are now six -villages in Linting; in 1814, there were not more than sixty persons on -the island; in 1821, not quite two thousand, and now, the estimate is -upward of five thousand. - -[A] Goods are trans-shipped from these places, without government -deriving any advantage. - -We found here, at anchor, about thirty sail of fine English and -American ships. The next afternoon we landed on Linting, with a small -party, at a miserable filthy village. From the hills, on the back part -of the village, we obtained an extensive view of the bay, the extended -surface of which was dotted with thousands of boats. The islands around -are miserably barren, worn into deep furrows, along their broken, -hilly sides; and, excepting a few terraces, formed along their base, -on which upland rice and a few vegetables are grown, have altogether -a desolate appearance. When we entered the village, (containing about -twenty or thirty huts,) every man, woman, and child, turned out to see -the barbarian ladies and gentlemen. A more ragged, filthy assemblage -was, perhaps, never before seen. We hurried through, obliging them not -to press too closely upon us, fearful some of their old acquaintance, -apparently the rightful inheritors of their persons, might, contrary -to our wishes, transfer themselves to us. The next evening, Captain -Geisinger and myself went to Whampoa. Nothing worthy of notice took -place on our passage, excepting that sacrifice was made at every Jos -House we passed, by burning sacred paper at the bows of the boat, so -that we might be favoured with a fair wind. The same ceremony was -performed with the boats passing down, so that the god, or jos, was -completely puzzled; and therefore it was occasionally calm. The wind, -to show the impartiality of its director, would, at times, blow down -the Taho, or Tigris, against us, then die away, and give us a partially -fair wind. - -As soon as the captain of the boat found it was coming aft, he placed -some oranges before a hideous painted god, in the little altar, which -all boats, ships, and shops, possess, lighted it up well, put some -odoriferous matches in a vessel of sand, and set them on fire. "Now," -said he, "we sail hab fair win. Spose me tak care for Jos, Jos tak care -for me." I really thought the bargain a fair one; and both parties held -honestly to their agreement, for we had a fair wind the remainder of -the passage; but Jos, having a bad appetite, we "turned to" and eat up -his supper, very much to the discomfiture of the captain. - -[Sidenote: WHAMPOA ISLAND.] - -It being Sunday, we attended a Bethel-meeting on board the ship -Superior; the service being performed by the Rev. Mr. Stevens, who had -just arrived from New Haven. We found, lying in Whampoa-reach, a great -number of English and American vessels, extending from two to three -miles. Whampoa, where the ships anchor, is between Dane and French -islands, and part of the island of Whampoa. Foreigners are allowed to -visit Danes' island, but they are not allowed to visit the city of -Whampoa, the suburbs being filled with vile wretches, who endeavour, -upon every occasion, to create a quarrel, by using insulting language -and throwing stones; and when they outnumber the foreigners, a hundred -to one, they beat them with long bamboos, to the great risk of their -lives. The land on Whampoa island, is generally very low, and banked, -to keep out the tide. It is well cultivated with rice, cane, savo-root, -and other vegetables. Several pagodas are in sight from the anchorage, -and one that has been built "time out of mind," is near the town of -Whampoa, nine stories high. - -[Sidenote: CITY OF CANTON.] - -At noon, we left the shipping for Canton, and in three hours arrived -at the factories, situated near the river, in the suburbs of the city -of Canton. The river was thickly covered with boats going in all -directions, from the humble sampan to the gay and splendid mandarin -boats, having streamers flying, gongs beating, and manned with a great -number of oars. Numberless boats were fishing, with every sort of -apparatus; others conveying the harvest of rice home, sculled by two -long oars, each manned by six stout fellows, the perspiration running -down their almost naked bodies in streams. - -Every foot of land is cultivated or covered with buildings; boats, -without number, are moored along its banks the whole distance; but -within three or four miles of the factories, the crowd of vessels was -prodigious. Large men-of-war junks, of a most unwieldly and primitive -construction; flower-boats, kept for infamous purposes; pleasure-boats; -marriage-boats; and boats which carry bands of comedians, were lying in -all directions. Many of them have beautiful lattice-work sides, painted -green, and gilt with good taste. All the vessels on the river have one -distinguishing mark, an immense large eye on each side of the bow. "How -can you see," say the Chinese, "spose hab no eye?" Small ferry-boats, -the residence of whole families, are constantly plying between the -city, or rather the suburbs, and Houani; also, boats laden with tea and -silk goods, from the interior or going to Whampoa; market, victualling, -and pedlars' boats; boats of a peculiar construction, laden with oil in -bulk; others filled with coarse China ware, bamboo hats, and baskets; -umbrellas, and beautiful lanterns, covered with various devices; -and every thing that can be named, from silks and teas to fat pups, -fish-maws, and trussed rats. - -The factories, or hongs, for foreign merchants, are pleasantly -situated, fronting the only open space of ground within the suburbs. -They are generally built in a neat style, but with slight pretensions -to architecture. - -The city of Canton is built on a plain, encircled by a high wall, at -the foot of barren hills. I looked into the city through three of -the gates; the streets present a corresponding appearance to those -in the suburbs, being extremely narrow, and paved with hewn granite; -the tops of the houses nearly united, so that bamboo poles are laid -across from roof to roof, on which awnings are spread to protect -the inhabitants from the intense heat of the sun. The common houses -are extremely filthy; there is no circulation of air through them. -Notwithstanding the extreme narrowness of the streets, (only two -persons can conveniently pass,) fish-mongers and butchers, victuallers, -and venders of Jos paper and Jos sticks, &c., are permitted to encumber -them; so that when a lady, or lordly mandarin passes, in a sedan-chair, -or a cooly, with his burden, the cry of ly, ly, (make room, make -room,) is constantly ringing in your ears, to the great annoyance of -the passengers in the extremely thronged alleys. Oblong signs, of a -vermilion colour, with large golden letters, line both sides of the -streets, so as to hide the lower parts of the buildings: they make, -notwithstanding, a very gay appearance. The basement story of every -house, seems to have in it a shop filled with merchandise; and every -third house, I believe, has some eatables for sale: bird's-nests, -fish-maws, shark-fins, dried oysters, muscles, deer-sinews, fish of all -kinds, pork, beef, &c. - -All kinds of strange compounds are cooked in the streets and are -frequently made of vile materials, such as are never sold in any other -country. Vast numbers of shops are filled with gilt paper--paper -men, women, and beasts, of all sorts, with or without horns, and of -frightful shapes; some with moveable goggle eyes, and moveable heads, -painted of all colours, with mouths extending from ear to ear, intended -for offerings to a temple or Jos-house. A small oven is built at every -shop-door, in which to burn incense to their penates or household -gods, and in every shop, house, boat, and junk, altars are erected, -surrounded by a frightful paper Jos, ornamented with painted and gilt -paper, and having odoriferous matches burning before it. - -In company with an American missionary, the highly respectable and -Reverend Mr. Bridgham, who has made great proficiency in the Chinese -language, and is extending his researches in various ways, more -especially in teaching a number of Chinese youths, &c., I paid a visit -to the great idol temple of Honam, opposite the city, on the south -side of the river, which is here about fifty rods wide.[A] This great -temple and monastery contain one hundred and seventy-four priests. The -general character given of these, by the Chinese, is, that they are -great debauchees, gamblers, and common mendicants; like the criminals, -their heads are close shaven, they not being suffered to wear the -long braided queue; and they are held in no manner of respect by the -people. The temple is said to be immensely wealthy. These priests are -of the sect of Firk, or Budha, and the temple, or rather succession -of temples, would, including the gardens, in which they raise large -quantities of vegetable and other fruits, cover an area of twelve -acres. Their diet is composed of fruits and vegetables. Meat and fowls -being expressly forbidden them. - -[A] The legend of the _Jos House_, Hoe-chong-sze or Idol temple of -Honam:-- - -Jos is a corruption of the Portuguese word Deos, God. Every idol -temple is here called a Jos House; to worship any superior being is -expressed by, to Chin-chen-Jos. This great temple was, originally, -a garden, belonging to the family of Ko; about eight hundred years -since, a small Budha temple was built and named, Tseen-tsow-sze, "the -temple of ten thousand autumns." It remained an obscure place till -about the year 1600, when a priest of eminent devotion raised its -character, and his disciple "Oh-tzze," by his superior talents and -sanctity, together with a concurrence of extraordinary circumstances, -raised the temple to its present magnificence and extent. During the -reign of Kang He, the second of the reigning Tartar dynasty, in the -year 1700, Canton province was not fully subjugated; and the emperor's -son-in-law, entitled Ping-naw-wong, "the subjugator of the south," -reduced the whole to his father's sway, and took up his headquarters -in the Honam temple, according to the Tartar and Chinese usage. -There were, on the island, thirteen villages which he had orders to -exterminate. Previously to carrying into effect this order, the king, -a blood-thirsty man, cast his eyes on Oh-tzze, a fat, happy, priest, -and remarked, that were he to live on a vegetable diet, he could not -be so fat--he must be a hypocrite, and should be punished with death. -He drew his sword to put in effect the sentence; but the limb suddenly -withered, and thus prevented its execution. That night a divine person -appeared to him in a dream, and warned him that Oh-tzze was a holy -man, and must not, unjustly, be killed. The following morning the king -presented himself before Oh-tzze, confessed his crime, and immediately -his arm was restored. He then did obeisance to the priest, took him for -his preceptor and guide, and, morning and evening, waited on him as a -servant. The thirteen villages heard of this miracle and solicited the -priest to intercede in their behalf: he complied with their request, -was successful, and the Honam villages were saved. Their gratitude to -the priest was unbounded; and estates, incense, and money, were poured -upon him. The king also persuaded his officers to make donations to the -temple, and it became affluent from that day. A hall for the celestial -kings was still wanting, and by seizing a fishpond belonging to a -wealthy man who had refused to sell it, sufficient ground was obtained -upon which to build it. The pond was filled up and built upon within -the short space of thirty days. It is sometimes called the Lok-wa-sze, -"the green temple." - -[Sidenote: GREAT IDOL TEMPLE.] - -Entering under a gateway, guarded by strong wooden bars, we passed -over a paved flagging, to what is called, "Hill Gate." It retains this -name, because the Budha priests affect to separate themselves from -the rest of mankind, and to live among hills and mountains--hence, -although a monastery be on a level plain, as it is here, the first -gate leading thereto, is always called "Hill Gate." From "Hill Gate," -we proceeded to the "Sea screen," and from thence to the "Angler's -eminence;" the origin of the latter name, I could not ascertain. We -proceeded onward to a building, having a roof similar to that seen on -China ware, and which was placed transversely across the passage. The -first objects which saluted our eyes, were two immense statues, in a -standing position, occupying each side of the passage; they are called, -"Huay Ha," warriors; are not less than fifteen feet high, and present -a most threatening aspect, having eyes nearly the size of a hat-crown, -with a mouth of immense width, showing a long protruding fiery tongue; -these frightful objects were painted in gaudy colours and gilt; before -them were placed in white copper vessels--odoriferous matches in -sand. They are thus placed, as guards to the temple of Budha. After -passing a court-yard, similar to the first, I entered the pavilion or -palace of the great celestial kings, containing four colossal statues, -in a sitting posture, upward of twenty feet high, and gilt most -fantastically, but having placid countenances. The roof is supported -by thirty-two highly lacquered pillars. On the right and left, in two -small pavilions, are two military demi-gods, guarding, as I suppose, -the wings of the "great temple." The principal hall or pavilion, which -I now entered, is called "The great, powerful, precious palace," and -the "Golden coloured region;" fronting the entrance is the "Precious -Budhas," "The past," "present," and "to come," being three large gilt -images of Budha, called, in Chinese, Sam, Pow, and Fat. They are -moderate in size, compared with the monsters in the rear of them. The -artist aimed at giving them a benign aspect, and if immensely swollen -cheeks, sleepy eyes, and a drunkard's countenance, form the true -expression of the milder virtues, it may here be seen to perfection. -On each side of the hall, eighteen disciples of Budha, are arranged; -they are kept well dressed, by the gilder and painter, and appear to -be very attentive to certain tablets placed before them, covered with -inscriptions. - -Religious ceremonies are performed daily by the priests, before these -divinities, dressed, generally, in long scarlet cloaks, with hoods, -(similar in shape to those worn by the Roman Catholic priests when -saying mass,) praying and kneeling occasionally, doing reverence with -both hands, closed together flat, raised to the head, or lowered to -the breast and waist; and sometimes prostrating themselves to perform -the ko-tow or knock-head ceremony, by striking their foreheads on the -ground. During the time, incense is burning before the altar, in the -shape of economical matches, highly odoriferous, being as slender as -a knitting-needle, and are placed in white copper vessels. The roof -of this great temple is supported by forty-two red lacquered pillars, -having on them gilt inscriptions. The ceiling and rafters are so -painted as to give an agreeable effect. The hall is about a hundred -feet square. Another temple, to which we proceeded, stands in the -rear of the great hall; here is a single image of Amida Budha, in the -Chinese language, called, "Omb-to-Fat." In the rear of the hall is a -white marble obelisk, having various idols carved upon it; in the room, -immediately behind this, is the palace of the goddess "Koon-Yan," who -is much adored; she is considered Budha; for, as in Bengal, Budha is -of either sex, according to the statues or images. This hall or palace -has in it the same number of pillars as that possessed by the great -temple--forty-two. There are four buildings erected on the right wing -of these temples, and five on the left, but all detached. First, and on -the right, is the place of a military demi-god; the second building, -is a place for keeping alive domestic animals, pigs, fowls, ducks, -and geese, agreeably to the leading doctrine of the sect, that no -animal should be deprived of life; the devout send these animals to -the temple, when they make or pay vows, or return thanks, for favours -received. It is evident that the pious depositor of the hogs could not -have been a descendant of the ancient tribes of Israel, or he would -not have shown so much affection, as to put them out to board within -the precincts of the holy temple, and keep a number of "celestials" -in constant pay to attend to them. The third building contains the -bookroom and printing-office. In the fourth, in an upper room, are more -idols. The first, on the left, is a pavilion, containing a military -demi-god; the second is a reception-room for visiters; the third -contains the idol of "Te-song-Wang," the king of Hades; the fourth -holds the great bell; and the fifth is the chief priests' apartments. -In these, Lord Amherst and his suite were lodged, 1816 and 1817, on his -return from an unsuccessful embassy to the court of Peking. Three other -buildings close up the rear of the buildings, on the left wing, the -book-house, treasury, and refectory; the latter was dark and dirty, and -sent forth a compound of unpleasant smells. The kitchen, the utensils -of which, experience has taught them the inutility of cleaning, from -their after liability to dirt, resembled, in condition, the refectory, -which latter contained only long wooden tables and benches. In the -rear of the last temple, is the kitchen-garden, and a small pavilion, -erected to the memory of a deer, attached to its master. On the left is -a mausoleum, in which the ashes of burnt priests are deposited once a -year; near to which is a little shabby house, where the ashes are kept -in jars, till the time of the opening of the mausoleum. Farther on, in -the garden, is the place in which the bodies of the priests are burned, -in a small temple. Some priests, who possess a little property, direct -their remains shall be buried and not burnt. The cloisters in the -building, on the right and left of the temple, are small and gloomy; -the walls are any thing but white, having a table, with a small altar, -and a gayly-painted, ugly divinity on it; a wooden stool completed the -furniture. - -In one room a great number of tailors were at work, not for the poor -and naked, but for these idle vagabonds. Passing through a small room, -we were invited by a member of the _holy_ priesthood, to take tea, -which was served up to us in the Chinese style, being made in the same -cup from which we drank it, and taken without sugar or milk. Eight or -ten sweetmeats formed the repast, the holy brotherhood standing around -us during the time, "thick as autumnal leaves in Vallambrosa," curious, -doubtless, to know if _mortals_ and _barbarians_ ate in the same way as -the "celestials." - -[Sidenote: MINOR TEMPLES.] - -There are not less than one hundred and twenty-four large and small -temples in Canton; and in the province, thirteen hundred and -twenty-seven. Public altars are here, in great number, dedicated to -the gods of the land and of grain, of the wind and clouds, of thunder -and rain, of hills, rivers, &c. At these, as in all the temples, -sacrifices and offerings, consisting of various animals, fish, fowls, -fruits, sweetmeats, cakes, and wines, are frequently presented, both -by government officers and by private citizens. Numerous attendants -are placed at the altars, within these temples of sacrifice, whose -lives are devoted to the service of the idols. On the birthday of the -gods, and at other times, processions are fitted out at the various -temples; the images are borne in state through the principal streets in -the city, attended by bands of musicians, priests, lads on horseback, -girls riding in open sedans, old men and boys, bearing lanterns, -incense, pots, flags, and other insignia; by lictors, with rattans, -and soldiers, with wooden swords. In addition to these processions, -the different streets and trades have their religious festivals, which -they celebrate with illuminations, bonfires, songs, and theatrical -exhibitions. Much extravagance is displayed on these occasions, -each company and street striving to excel all its neighbours. The -private and domestic altars, shrines crowded with household gods -and daily offerings, of gilt paper, candles, incense, &c.; together -with numberless ceremonies, occasioned by nuptials, or the burial -of the dead, complete the long catalogue of the religious rites and -institutions, which are supported by the people of Canton. The whole -number of priests and nuns, (there are said to be a thousand of the -latter,) is, probably, not less than three thousand, and the annual -expense of the one hundred and twenty-four temples, may be put down, on -a moderate estimate, at two hundred thousand dollars. An equal sum is -required to support the annual monthly and semi-monthly festivals and -daily rites, which are observed by the people, in honour of their gods. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - - BUDHISM--TOMBS OF ANCESTORS--CEREMONIES--ORIGIN - OF TUMULI OR TOMBS--SACRIFICES TO - CONFUCIUS--PAN-HWNY-PAN--INFANTICIDE--CHARITABLE - INSTITUTIONS--GOVERNMENT GRATUITIES. - - -[Sidenote: BUDHISM.] - -Having given a description of the principal temples, &c., I shall now -state some particulars relative to the introduction of the Budhism -religion into China, and show what are the principles professed by its -disciples, at the present day. - -In the sixty-fifth year of the Christian era, the emperor Ming-te -invited the first priests; they were probably natives of Ceylon.--The -invitation was given in consequence of dreams, which informed him that -the "Holy One" was in the West. - -The ancient Chinese worshippers retained some knowledge of a Supreme -Being, yet the worship they paid to the visible heavens, the earth, -rivers, bulls, and above all, to dragons and the gods of lands, was -open idolatry. Subsequently, Confucius arose; he inculcated the -necessity of reverencing those whom the ancients had worshipped. -His wish was to promote the social happiness of his countrymen, -independently of the influence which religion exerts over a nation; his -great aim was the introduction of decorum and order into all the duties -of life; and to the strict observance of _external_ ceremonies, he -reduced the whole of religion. His system being found very deficient, -Taou-tze, the mystic philosopher, stepped forward to supply the wants -of the multitude by his abstruse speculations. According to his system, -all nature is filled with demons and genii, who constantly influence -the fate of man. He increased the number of idol gods to an enormous -amount, and attempted to define with scholastic precision, their nature -and offices. His demonology wanted perspicuity and contained too many -palpable absurdities to be generally received. Some of the emperors, -though declaring themselves believers in Taouism, could never introduce -a general acquiescence in doctrines which no one understood. China -wanted a creed which every man might understand; and the Budhists -supplied the desideratum;--accommodating their doctrines to all -existing superstitions, they opened the door to every description of -convert, who might retain as many of his old prejudices as he chose: -they were not rigorous in enforcing the obligations of morality; to -expiate sins, offerings to the idols and priests were sufficient. A -temple built in honour of any idol and richly endowed, would suffice -to blot out every stain of guilt and serve as a portal to the blessed -mansions of Budha. When death approached, they promised to each of -their votaries, speedy promotion in the scale of metempsychosis until -he should be absorbed in Nirupan or Nirvana--nonentity. With these -prospects, the poor deluded victim left the world. To facilitate his -release from purgatory, the ghostly hypocrites said mass, and supplied -the wants of the hungry departed spirit with rich offerings of food, of -which the latter enjoyed only the odour, while the priests devoured the -substance. As Confucius had raised the veneration for ancestors into -idolatrous worship, these priests were ready to perform their pious -offices before the tablets of the dead. Thus they became ingratiated -with the credulous multitude, who were too happy to avail themselves -of their cheap services. But notwithstanding the accommodating spirit -of their creed, the Chinese government has at times disapproved of -it. As the sanctity of marriage has been acknowledged in China from -time immemorial and almost every person at years of maturity has been -obliged to enter into that state, the celibacy of the priesthood of -Budha was considered as a very dangerous custom. - -Budha regarded contemplation and exemption from worldly cares, as the -nearest approach to bliss; his followers, therefore, in imitation of -their master, passed and inculcated lives of indolence, and practised -begging, as the proper means of maintaining themselves. This mode of -livelihood was diametrically opposed to the political institutions of -China, where even the emperor does not disdain to plough. It was also -in opposition to the actual condition and wants of the people; a system -of idleness, in the immense population of the empire, would have been -followed by actual starvation, and a consequent serious diminution in -the number of inhabitants; for it is by the utmost exertion that they -are able to subsist. These serious objections to the foreign creed, -furnished its enemies with weapons by which to destroy it. It was -proscribed as a dangerous heresy, and a cruel persecution followed; but -it had taken too deep root to be easily eradicated. Among some of the -emperors too, it found abettors and disciples. Yet it never became a -religion of the state, nor were its priests ever able to exercise any -permanent influence over the populace. The Chinese are too rational -a people to believe, implicitly, all the Budhistic fables, nor can -they persuade themselves that the numerous images are gods. When we -add to this, their national apathy towards every thing connected with -religion, they being entirely engrossed with the things of this life, -we can easily account for their disesteem of Budhism. Nor can we wonder -that they worship at one time, the divinities they despise at another, -for ancient custom bids them follow in the track of their ancestors, -without inquiry or doubt, even when they cannot but ridicule its -absurdities. - -The priests of Budha are a very despised class, and spring chiefly -from the lowest and most ignorant of the people. Their morals are -notoriously bad, and pinching poverty has made them cringing and -servile. They wander abroad in search of some trifling gift, and often -encounter a very harsh refusal. - -Those temples which are well endowed by their founders, are crowded -with priests, so that only a few among the higher orders of them -can be rich. Stupidity, with a few exceptions, is their reigning -characteristic; neither skill nor learning is to be found among -them. Budha seems to have intimated that stupidity brings the votary -nearer to the blissful state of apathy, and therefore a knowledge -of his institutions is considered as the only requisite to form an -accomplished priest. The Budhists have no schools or seminaries, for -the instruction of their believers, seldom strive for literary honours, -and are even excluded from the list of candidates, so long as they -remain priests. Few among them are serious in the practice of their own -religion; they are in the most complete sense of the words, sullen and -misanthropic, and live a very secluded life. But religious abstraction -and deep contemplation, with utter oblivion of existence, appear to -be out of vogue. The halls of contemplation are the haunts of every -vice. Such effects must follow where the mind is unoccupied, and the -hands unemployed in any good work. The nuns are less numerous and more -industrious than the priests. It is a general observation that nearly -all the temples of Budha are in a dilapidated state; the contributions -of devotees not meeting the expenses of repairs. These erections are -very numerous; there is scarcely a small village that has not one, and -few romantic and beautiful spots can be found free from these seats of -idolatry. - -The similarity of the rites of this superstition with those of papacy, -are striking: every one who visits the monasteries can at once discover -the resemblance. That they should count their prayers by means of a -rosary, and chant masses both for the living and the dead, live in a -state of celibacy and shave their hair, &c., might perhaps be accounted -for by a mere coincidence of errors into which men are prone to fall; -but their divine adoration of Teenhow, "the queen of heaven," must be a -tenet engrafted upon Budhism from foreign traditions. We are unable to -fix the exact period at which this deity was adopted. There is a legend -of modern date among the people of Farh-keen, which tells us that she -was a virgin of that province, who, in a dream, saw her kindred in -danger of being wrecked, and boldly rescued them; but this affords no -satisfactory solution; neither is "the queen of heaven," among the -deities which the Siamese Budhists worship, though they possess the -whole orthodox code of demons. It is probable that some degenerate -Nestorian Christians amalgamated with their faith and ceremonies, the -prevailing errors of China, and persuaded the priests of Budha to adopt -many of their rites. - -Though the Siamese priesthood resembles the papal clergy, it does not -exhibit so striking a similarity as the Chinese. Moreover, the Budhists -of China have received all the sages which have been canonized by the -emperors or by public credulity. Mr. Gutzlaff says he saw, in one -instance, a marble bust of Napoleon, which they had placed in a temple, -and before which they burned incense; hence it would not be surprising -if they had also adopted among their gods so conspicuous an object -of worship as the "virgin," who was adored by so many millions of -Christians. The present dynasty seems to have declared itself in favour -of the great Da-lai-lama of Thibet. As the Mongols on the northern -frontier are much devoted to the rites of Shamanism, and worship its -presiding deity, it was perhaps with a view to conciliate the good -will and keep in subjection these wild hordes, that the preference -was manifested. The religion of these barbarians being a modification -of Budhism, we might expect that the Chinese government would equally -extend its benevolence to the Budhist of China. Such does not appear -to be the fact; they are tolerated but receive no stated support from -the government; to some temples the emperors may extend his individual -charity, but this is not governmental patronage. If the high offices -of the state occasionally favour this sect, they never openly avow it; -such a disclosure would derogate from their fame and expose them to the -ridicule of their colleagues. In the midst of all these difficulties -a numerous priesthood do find subsistence. On certain festivals the -temples are crowded to excess, and the exclamation, "O-me-to-fuh" is -familiar to the ear of every one who visits them. I have thus given -a sketch of Budhism, a religion which strikes at the root of human -society, in enjoining celibacy as the nearest approach to perfection, -and in commanding its disciples to abandon relatives and friends, -without fulfilling their duties as citizens, parents and children. -We are bound to concede that this unnatural restraint is the source -of vice and crime; at the same time we must in justice admit that -Budhism does not sanction shocking rites, or Bacchanalian orgies, like -other idolatrous systems in Asia; nor have we to complain of that -indecency in its idol exhibitions, which is common to the religion -of the Hindoos; the wooden deities are hideous, but never repulsive -to the feelings of modesty. The temples are open to all, and serve -occasionally for theatres, gambling-houses and taverns. The Chinese -Budhists are a temporizing sect; their abstinence from animal food is -not very strict. They seldom defend their idols, or appear much annoyed -when they are treated with contempt;--their toleration arises from -indifference; all religions, with them, are equally safe, but theirs -is the best. They have no desire to proselyte, their numbers being -already too great, and are far from spiritualizing their idolatrous -systems. They talk of hungry demons and of the spiritual presence of -the idols in their statues, but this is all. To assert they adore one -Supreme Being in their idolatrous representations of his attributes, is -to state an opinion that never found a place in their thoughts, or in -their canonical works. They are without God in the world, and estranged -from the divine life, worshipping the works of their own hands, to the -disgrace of human reason. - -[Sidenote: CEREMONIES.] - -Having previously alluded to the superstitious rites performed by the -Chinese, at the tombs of their ancestors, parents and friends, I here -give a more detailed description of this idolatrous custom, together -with an account of the gluttonous and drunken feast, which is the -finale of what is misnamed a _religious_ observance. The description is -translated from an original Chinese composition:-- - -That this custom did not exist anterior to the age of Confucius is -inferred from the words of Mericius, who affirms that in the preceding -ages men did not even inter their deceased kindred but threw their -dead bodies into ditches, by the roadside. As they had no tombs there -could be no sacrifices performed at them. Confucius directed _tumuli_ -to be raised, in order to mark the place of interment; this is the -first intimation of tombs, given among the Chinese. In raising these -_tumuli_ there was probably no other intention than that of erecting -a mark to the abodes of the dead. It is also known that children, in -that early age, would remain in temporary sheds, for years near the -grave of a parent, to "sorrow as those without hope." But we proceed to -exhibit the _present_ state of these ceremonies as being all that is -of practical utility, in deciding the question at issue. The Chinese -visit the tombs, twice a year, in spring, and in autumn. The first -visit is called _tsing-ming_, "clear bright," in reference to the fine -weather, which is then expected: the second is called _tsew-tse_, "the -autumnal sacrifice." The rites performed during _tsing-ming_, are -those most generally attended by the Chinese. Their governors teach -that the prosperity of individuals and of families depends greatly -on the position, dryness, and good repair of their parents' graves. -Therefore, "to sweep" and repair them, to mark their limits, and to see -that they are not encroached upon by others, are the objects of visits -to the tombs. When there are large clans, which have descended from -the same ancestors, living in the same neighbourhood, they repair in -great numbers, to the performance of the sacrificial rites. Rich and -poor, all assemble. Even beggars repair to the tombs, to kneel down and -worship. This usage is known by the phrases _saou-fun-moo_, "sweeping -the tombs," and _paeshan_, "worshipping the _tumuli_." To omit these -observances, is considered a great offence against moral propriety, -and a breach of filial duty. The common belief is that good fortune, -domestic prosperity, honours and riches, all depend on an impulse -given at the tombs of ancestors. Hence, the practice is universal; and -when the men are absent from their families, the women go to perform -the rites. - -On some of these occasions, even where there are two or three thousand -members of a clan, some possessing great wealth, and others holding -high rank in the state, all, old and young, rich and poor, are summoned -to meet at the _tsoo-tsung tsze-tang_, "the ancestral hall." Pigs -are slaughtered; sheep are slain; and all sorts of offerings and -sacrifices are provided in abundance. The processions from the hall -to the tombs, on these occasions, are formed in the most grand style, -which the official rank of the principal persons will admit--with -banners, tablets, gongs, &c., &c., &c. All present, old men and -boys, are dressed in the best robes which they can procure; and thus -escorting the victims for sacrifice, and carrying wine for oblations, -they proceed to the tombs of their ancestors, and arrange the whole -in order, preparatory to the grand ceremony. There is a _choo tse_, -"lord of the sacrifice," appointed to officiate as priest, a master of -ceremonies, to give the word of command, and two stewards to aid in the -performance of the rites. There is also a reader to recite the prayer; -and a band of musicians, drummers, gong-beaters, &c. - -After all things are in readiness, the whole party stands still till -the "master" gives the word. He first cries with a loud voice: "Let the -official persons take their places:" this is immediately done, and the -ceremonies proceed. - -_Master._ "Strike up the softer music." Here the smaller instruments -begin to play. - -_Master._ "Kneel." The priest then kneels in a central place, fronting -the grave, and behind him, arranged in order, the aged and the -honourable, the children and grandchildren, all kneel down. - -_Master._ "Present the incense." Here the stewards take three sticks of -incense, and present them to the priest. He rises, makes a bow towards -the grave, and then plants one of the sticks in an immense vase, in -front of the tombstone. The same form is repeated a second and a third -time. - -_Master._ "Rise up." The priest and the party stand up. - -_Master._ "Kneel." Again the priest and all the people kneel down. - -_Master._ "Knock head." Here all bending forward, and leaning on their -hands, knock their foreheads against the ground. - -_Master._ "Again knock head." This is forthwith done. - -_Master._ "Knock head a third time." This is also done. Then he also -calls out: Rise up; kneel; knock head;--till the three kneelings, and -the nine knockings are completed. All this is done in the same manner -as the highest act of homage is paid to the emperor, or of worship, to -the supreme powers, heaven and earth. This being ended, the ceremonies -proceed. - -_Master._ "Fall prostrate." This is done by touching the ground with -his knees, hands and forehead. - -_Master._ "Read the prayer." Here the reader approaches the front -of the tomb, holding in his hands a piece of white paper, on which -is written one of the sacrificial forms of prayer. These forms are -generally much the same; differing slightly according to the wish of -the composer. The form states the time; the name of the clan which -come to worship and offer sacrifice; beseeches the shades to descend -and enjoy the sacrifice, to grant protection and prosperity to their -descendants, that in all succeeding generations they may wear official -caps, may enjoy riches, and honours, and never become extinct, that by -the help of the souls in hades, the departed spirits, and the living -on earth may be happy, and illustrious throughout myriads of ages. The -prayer being finished, the master cries: "Offer up the gold and the -precious things." Here one of the stewards presents gilt papers to the -priest, and he bowing towards the grave, lays them down before it. - -_Master._ "Strike up the grand music." Here gongs, drums, trumpets, -&c., are beaten and blown to make a noise as loud as possible. - -_Master._ "Burn the gold and silver, and precious things." Here all -the young men and children burn the gilt papers, fire off crackers, -rockets, &c. - -Such is the sum of a grand sacrifice at the tombs of ancestors. But to -many, the best part of the ceremony is to come, which is the _feast_ of -the sacrifice. The roast pigs, rice, fowls, fish, fruits, and liquors, -are carried back to the ancestral hall; where according to age and -dignity, the whole party sit down to eat, drink and play. The grandees -discuss the condition of the hall, and other topics connected with the -honour of the clan; the young men carouse, and provoke each other to -"drink deep." Some set out for home with a catty or two of the divine -flesh, which had been used in sacrifice; others stay till they wrangle -and fight, and night puts an end to the entertainment. - -Those who live remote from the tombs, or who have no ancestral hall, -eat their sacrifice on the ground at the sepulchres. The poor imitate -their superiors, at an humble distance. Although they have no hall, -no procession or music, they provide three sorts of victims, a pig, a -goose, and a fish; some fruits, and a little distilled liquors--for -spirituous liquors are used on all these occasions. After presenting -these at the tomb, they kneel, knock head, and orally or mentally pray -for the aid of their ancestors' souls to make the existing and all -future generations of descendants, rich and prosperous. - -In these rites there is some difference in the wording of the prayer, -according as it is presented to remote ancestors or to lately deceased -parents or friends; but the general import is the same. - -[Sidenote: SACRIFICES TO CONFUCIUS.] - -Further to illustrate the modes "in which the Chinese worship Confucius -and the deceased," we subjoin the following extracts, from the -_Indo-Chinese Gleaner_:-- - -From the Shing-meaou-che, volume first, page second, it appears that -there are, in China, more than _one thousand, five hundred and sixty_ -temples dedicated to Confucius. At the spring and autumnal sacrifices -offered to him, it is calculated in the above-named work, that -there are immolated (on the two occasions) annually, six bullocks, -twenty-seven thousand pigs, five thousand eight hundred sheep, two -thousand eight hundred deer, and twenty-seven thousand rabbits. - -Thus, there are annually sacrificed to Confucius, in China, _sixty-two -thousand, six hundred and six victims_; it is added, there are offered -at the same time, _twenty-seven thousand, six hundred_ pieces of silk. -What becomes of these does not appear. - -[Sidenote: CHINESE WOMEN.] - -It has justly been remarked that a nation's civilization may -be estimated by the rank which females hold in society. If the -civilization of China be judged of by this test, she is far from -occupying that first place which she so strongly claims. Females have -always been regarded with contempt by the Chinese. Their ancient sages -seem to have considered them scarcely worthy of their attention. The -sum of the duties they require of them is, to submit to the will -of their masters. The lady, say they, who is to be betrothed to a -husband, ought to follow blindly the wishes of her parents, yielding -implicit obedience to their will. From the moment when she is joined in -wedlock, she ceases to exist; her whole being is absorbed in that of -her lord; she ought to know nothing but his will, and to deny herself -in order to please him. _Pan-hwny-pan_, who is much admired as an -historian, composed a book of instructions for her own sex, in which -she treats of their proper station in society, the deportment they -should exhibit, and the duties they ought to perform. She teaches them -that they "hold the lowest rank among mankind, and that employments -the least honourable, ought to be, and in fact are, their lot." She -inculcates entire submission to their husbands, and tells them in very -plain terms that they ought to become abject slaves, in order to become -good wives. We cannot expect that these doctrines, inculcated as they -are, by a _lady_, who ought to advocate the cause of her sex, and by -one held in so high repute as is _Pan-hwny-pan_, will be overlooked by -the "lords of creation;" especially as they accord so perfectly with -their domineering disposition, in China. - -Confucius, the prince of letters, _divorced his wife without assigning -any cause for so doing_; and his followers have invariably adopted -similar arbitrary measures in their treatment of females. The price -which is paid to the parents of the bride, constitutes her at once a -saleable commodity, and causes her to be regarded as differing little -from a mere slave. In the choice of a partner for life, she is entirely -passive, is carried to the house of the bridegroom, and there disposed -of, for life, by her parents. - -The birth of a female is a matter of grief in China. The father and -mother, who had already hoped in the unborn babe to embrace a son, -feel disappointed at the sight of a daughter. Many vows and offerings -are made before their idols in order to propitiate their favour, and -secure the birth of a son. The mercy of the compassionate Kuan-yin, -especially, is implored to obtain this precious gift; but after they -have spent large sums of money in this pious work, the inexorable -goddess fills the house with mourning at the birth of a daughter. -"Anciently," says _Pan-hwny-pan_, "the female infant was thrown upon -some old rags, by the side of its mother's bed, and for three days -was scarcely spoken or thought of. At the end of that time it was -carried to a temple by a father, accompanied by attendants with bricks -and tiles in their hands. The bricks and tiles," says Pan-hwny-pan, -in her comment on these facts, "signify the contempt and suffering -which are to be her companions and her portion--bricks are of no use -except to form enclosures and to be _trodden under foot_; tiles are -useless except when they are exposed to the injuries of the air." The -_Sheking_, one of the venerated books, says, - - "----When a daughter is born, - She sleeps on the ground, - She is clothed with a wrapper: - She plays with a tile: - She is incapable either of evil or good." - -This last assertion is thus explained; "if she does ill she is not a -woman--and if she does well she is not a woman; a slavish submission -is her duty and her highest praise." At the present day, as well as -anciently, the female infant is not unfrequently an object of disgust -to its parents, and of contempt to all the inmates of the family. -As she grows up, her feet are so confined and cramped that they can -never exceed the size of infancy. This process entirely incapacitates -her from walking with ease or safety. Small feet, that badge of -bondage which deprives the Chinese females of the power of locomotion, -confines them to the inner apartments, except when poverty forces -them to earn their livelihood abroad by labour, which is rendered -exceedingly difficult and painful if accompanied by walking. Females -of the higher class seldom leave the house, except in sedan-chairs. -Their lives are but an honourable captivity. They have few or no real -enjoyments--are exceedingly ignorant--very few of them being able to -read. They live and die little more than ciphers in human society. -Pale and emaciated, they spend the greatest part of their lives in -embellishing their persons; while females of the poorer classes, whose -feet are necessarily permitted to grow to the size which the God of -nature designed, perform all the drudgery of husbandry and other kinds -of work. These last are in general very industrious, and prove to be -helpmates to their husbands. Being remarkable for their good, sound -understanding, they manage their families with a care and prudence, -and so far as industry and economy are concerned, they are exemplary -mothers. Nothwithstanding the degradation in which they are held, they -are generally far superior in intellect to the common cast of Asiatic -women--are very ingenious in their needlework, &c. To be a good -mother, in the estimation of this class of the Chinese, a woman must be -a weaver. It is to be regretted, that they have very little regard for -the cleanliness either of their persons or houses; their children crawl -in the dirt, and the few articles of furniture in their dwellings are -covered with filth. - -Infanticide of females is not unknown among the Chinese. They are far -from regarding this crime with the horror it deserves. "It is only a -female," is the answer generally given when they are reproved for it. - -The account of the _Charitable Institutions_ of Canton is brief. They -are few in number, of small extent, and of recent origin:-- - -First: Yuh-ying-tang, or the "foundling hospital." This institution -was founded in 1698, and it was rebuilt and considerably enlarged -in 1732. It stands without the walls of the city, on the east--has -accommodations for two or three hundred children, and is maintained at -an annual expense of two thousand, five hundred and twenty-two taels. - -Second: Yang-tse-yuen.--This is a retreat for poor, aged and infirm, or -blind people, who have no friends to support them. It stands near the -foundling hospital, and like it, enjoys imperial patronage, receiving -annually, five thousand, one hundred taels. Both this sum, and that for -yuh-ying-tang, are received in part, or wholly, from duties, paid by -those _foreign_ ships which bring rice to Canton. Every such ship must -pay the sum of six hundred and twenty taels, which, by imperial order, -is appropriated to these two hospitals. The number of "rice-ships," -last year, was twenty-eight, yielding the sum of seventeen thousand, -three hundred and sixty taels. The English, American, Dutch, Spanish, -and Portuguese, are the only foreign vessels that bring rice to Canton. - -Third: Ma-fung-yuen, or the "hospital for lepers." This is also on the -east side of the city; the number of patients in it, is three hundred -and forty-one, who are supported at an expense of three hundred taels -per annum! The condition of the three hospitals, if such they may be -called, is wretched in the extreme. The foundlings are often those -children which have been exposed; and who, when grown up, are often -sold, and not unfrequently, for the worst of purposes. Such is a -specimen of the benevolent institutions of the celestial empire! - -[Sidenote: GOVERNMENT GRATUITIES.] - -The government, in times of calamity and scarcity, grant small -gratuities to the distressed, but the amount is so trifling, the -difficulty of obtaining it so great, that it is not worth the time lost -in seeking for it. During the month of August, 1833, owing to heavy -gales, accompanied with much rain, the rivers overflowed their banks, -and these united calamities destroyed a vast number of the humble -dwellings of the poor. The government, knowing the great distress of -many thousands, sent surveyors to take a list of the sufferers. About -_five_ months afterward, the two magistrates who divide the city of -Canton between them, gave public notice, that the sums subscribed by -the _public_ for their relief, would be paid out in the following -proportions, viz.: "To the poor, who were unable to rebuild their -houses--two mace, five candareens," (about forty cents,) and if they -were _altogether destitute_, two months' food in addition, viz., for -every "big mouth," two mace and seven candareens: to every "little -mouth," (child's,) one half of that sum. The aged and feeble who are -unable to reach the distributing officer without several days' hard -struggle, are frequently obliged to give up the scanty pittance, and -depend upon the cold charities of the world, or otherwise find their -grave on the roadside in a loathsome ditch. - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - - DESCRIPTION Of CANTON--SACKING OF THE CITY--PLACE - OF HONOUR--MOURNING--COMPASS--MATERIALS FOR - BUILDINGS--HOUSES--PRINCIPAL OFFICES--DUTIES AND PENALTIES OF - GOVERNOR--FIRES--GOVERNOR'S SALARY--DIVISION OF POWER. - - -[Sidenote: DESCRIPTION OF CANTON.] - -The name of Canton on Chinese maps, is written Kwang-tung-sang-ching, -that is, the capital of the province of Kwang-tung, but when speaking -of the city, the natives call it san-ching, the "provincial city," -or the "capital of the province." It is built on the north bank of -Choo-keang or Pearl river, stands inland and is in a direct line, about -sixty miles from "the great sea." The scenery around the city, in the -adjacent country, is rich and diversified, but deficient in boldness or -grandeur. - -On the north and northeast of the city, the country is hilly and -mountainous. In every other direction a wide prospect opens to the view -of the beholder. The rivers and canals, which are very numerous, abound -with fish, and are covered with a great variety of boats, which are -continually passing to and from the neighbouring towns and villages. -Southward from the city, as far as the eye can see, the waters -cover a considerable portion, perhaps a third of the whole surface. -Rice-fields, and gardens, occupy the lowlands, which are diversified -with a few hills, rising here and there, to relieve the otherwise -unbroken aspect. The extent of the city, including all within and -without the walls, is not very great; though very populous, it derives -its chief importance from its extensive domestic and foreign trade. -Canton is one of the oldest cities in this part of the empire; since -the foundations were first laid, it has undergone numerous changes. - -It is not easy, perhaps impossible, to determine its original site and -name, or to ascertain the time in which it was first built. Although -either of the questions is unimportant to the reader, a brief account -of what the Chinese themselves narrate, respecting one of their -largest and most populous cities, may interest him. Their classics -speak of Canton being in existence four thousand years since; that it -was then called Nan-keaon, and Ming-too, "the splendid capital." It -first began to pay tribute to the emperors of China in the year B. C. -1123. The historians of the empire are only able to trace the origin -of Canton to the last emperors of the Chow dynasty, two thousand years -since; it was then surrounded by a stockade, composed of bamboo and -mud. We find it was but little visited by foreign vessels till the -year one thousand before Christ, when they held intercourse with eight -"barbarous" nations, from Teeu-chuh (India.) - -In the time of the western or Han dynasty, two hundred years previously -to the Christian era, persons came from Canton, Loo-whang-che and -other nations in the south. The nearest nation was about ten days' -_journey_ and the most remote, five months'; their territories were -large and populous and they possessed rare commodities. In the year -one hundred and seventy-six of Christ, vessels from India and Egypt, -or Arabia, "came with tribute;" from this time trade was carried on -with foreigners, at Canton. In the year seven hundred, an imperial -commissioner was first appointed to receive "fixed duties;" ninety-five -years subsequently, all foreign vessels (owing to gross extortion) -resorted to Cochin-China. After the fall of the Tang dynasty, A. -D. 906, five dynasties arose, reigned and fell, within a period of -fifty-three years. A tribute in gold, silver, ivory and other valuable -commodities, was sent to the successor of Tang, to the amount of five -millions of taels. In consequence of this acknowledgment, the emperor -created Lewyen, "King of Canton" or "King of the Southern sea." At -this period, the court of Canton was cruel in the extreme--criminals -were flayed, boiled and roasted, thrown on spikes, and forced to -fight with tigers and elephants. The city was freed from the monster, -(Lewyen,) by the founder of the Shang dynasty, in the year of the -Christian era, nine hundred and sixty-four; it subsequently became more -prosperous and beautiful; witches and wizards were prohibited; sorcery -was interdicted; the temples which had been built for the practice -of superstitious rites, were thrown down; the people were forbidden -to offer the sacrifice of human life, to demons; they were enjoined -to relieve the sufferers from noxious diseases which are prevalent; -dispensaries of medicine were established; useless and extravagant -articles of apparel were discountenanced, and pearls and ornaments for -head-dresses were disallowed. In the year one thousand and sixty seven, -a wall, about two English miles in circumference, enclosed the city -to protect it against the Cochin-Chinese. In the year twelve hundred, -"_foreigners resident_" received metals, silks, &c., and in return, -they gave rhinoceros's horns, elephant's teeth, coral, pearls, gems, -crystals, foreign cloth, pepper, red-wood, and drugs. In the year -fourteen hundred, one hundred and twenty houses were built for the -accommodation of foreigners.--In sixteen hundred and forty seven, the -present Tartar family came into power; Canton was summoned to submit -to its new master; on refusing, its walls were beaten down with great -cannon, and on the twenty-fourth of November, sixteen hundred and -fifty, it was taken:--for six days the inhabitants "were given to the -sword," the city was plundered--and upward of seven hundred thousand -persons were slain, during the siege, and six days' slaughter: "every -house was left desolate!" only one house remains standing which was -built before the sacking of the old city. That part of the city which -is walled in is nearly square, and divided by a partition-wall, running -from east to west; the northern, much the largest part, is called the -"old city;" the southern portion, more recently built, the "new city." - -The circuit of the wall does not exceed six miles: its southern part, -running east and west, is parallel with the river, from which it is -removed about fifteen or twenty rods: on this side are the "_Foreign -Factories_;" on the north, the city rests on the brow of the hill, and -is at its highest point about two hundred and fifty feet above the -surface of the river. The foundation and lower part of the wall, the -arches and the gates, are formed of coarse sandstone; its remaining -portion is built with soft brick. The walls are from twenty-five to -forty feet high, and from twenty to twenty-five feet thick; the north -side being the most substantial; on the east side the elements have -made great havoc: a line of battlements with embrasures surmounts -the walls, in the rear of which is a broad pathway. Two short walls, -designed to block up the narrow space between the main wall and the -ditches of the city, extend from its southeast and southwest corners; -through each of these there is a gate. - -The city has sixteen gates, of which twelve are outer, and four open -through the wall which separates the old from the new city; they are -all guarded by soldiers, closed at an early hour in the evening, and -opened at dawn of day. The streets and buildings in the suburbs are -similar to those in the city, the houses of which occupy the whole -space between the _wall and the river_ on its southern side; on its -eastern quarter they are much less extensive; and in its northern -division there are only a few solitary huts. The houses on the south -are generally built against the wall which they overlook. - -The suburbs are scarcely less extensive and populous than the city, -in which there are upward of six hundred streets, flagged with large -stones, chiefly of granite; they vary in width from two to sixteen -feet, the medium and most usual breadth being from six to eight. - -These narrow streets are usually thronged by a numerous motley group; -through many of them, the pedestrian in the rear is liable to tread -on the heels of the leader; the stout, half-naked, vociferating -porters, carrying every description of merchandise, and the nimble -sedan-bearers, make up, in noise and bustle, for the deficiency of -carts and carriages: these, together with the numerous travellers, -various kinds of retailers, pedlars, and beggars, present before the -spectator a scene of great animation and endless variety. Many of the -visiters and much of the merchandise are conveyed into the city by -means of canals or ditches, of which there are several; one of the -largest extends along the whole length of the wall on the east, and -another on the west side of the city, so that boats can pass through -and out by either canal. The eastern, western, and southern suburbs of -the city are also furnished with large canals, into which a number of -smaller tributaries flow: the Chinese term these ditches "the veins of -the city." Reservoirs are found here, but none of them are extensive: -much of the water is supplied from the river and canals; wells are not -unfrequent, and rainwater is used for making tea, &c.; fine wholesome -water is also furnished from numerous springs, which rise in the north -of the city, both within and without the walls. Several bridges (some -of which are of stone) are thrown over the canals. - -The Chinese of the present day have seldom ventured or desired to step -beyond the limits which circumscribed the efforts of their remote -ancestors; they have been equally slow and unwilling to adopt or -imitate the usages and improvements of distant foreigners, and glory -in this, their prominent characteristic: hence without much claim to -originality, they are exceedingly unlike the nations of the West. - -[Sidenote: PLACE OF HONOR.] - -In giving a description of this people, or any thing which appertains -to them, we must not therefore form our estimate by the criterion of -European taste or usage. With the Chinese the left, as the place of -honour, takes precedence of the right; white is the badge of mourning. -From the peculiar construction of their compass, called Chenan, chay, -"a chariot pointing towards the south," they do not number the cardinal -points in our order, but almost always mention the south before the -north; the west before the east; instead of saying north, they say, -west-north; west-south, &c. Without attempting to account for this -contrariety, it is obvious that the fact itself should be kept in mind, -while surveying the various works, occupations, institutions and habits -of the Chinese. - -It is generally supposed that the remote ancestors of this people, in -the migration eastward, dwelt in _tents_; their circumstances would -require such habitations; when they became stationary, their wants -would prompt them to seek a more substantial covering; but their -houses, pagodas, and temples, of the present day, bear evident proofs -that this early covering from the heat and storm, was the only model -which presented itself for imitation, in the erection of more secure -and permanent habitations. The roof, concave on its upper side; and the -veranda, with its slender columns, show most distinctly the original -features of the tent; the whole fabric of the ordinary buildings is -light and slender, retaining the outlines of its primeval simplicity. -They therefore, will seek in vain, who expect to find here stately -edifices, built after the Grecian or the Gothic model. - -Barrow, after having visited the imperial palaces, and travelled from -north to south, through the whole breadth of the empire, affirms, that -all the buildings of the Chinese are without elegance or convenience -of design, without any settled proportion; mean in their appearance, -and clumsy in their workmanship. Macartney was much better pleased -with their architecture; though it is totally unlike any other, and -irreconcilable to our rules, yet, in perfect consistence with its own, -it frequently produces a most pleasing effect. - -The buildings of Canton present as great a variety in structure and -style as can be found in the whole empire. - -A large part of the city and suburbs, is built on low ground or flats. -Special care is therefore required to secure a solid basis, for houses -and temples. - -Near the river, and in all the most loose and muddy situations, houses -are raised on wooden piles, which make the foundation as secure as -brick or stone, perhaps, even more so. In some cases the piles rise -above the surface of the ground, the buildings constructed of wood, -resting directly upon them: in other instances, the piles reach only -within a few feet of the surface, and the remaining part of the -foundation is made of mud, brick, or stone; when this is finished, the -walls are usually carried up and completed with the same material. Many -of the houses are nearly baseless, or have only a slender foundation -composed of mud, of which also the walls are composed; hence, in -severe rain, storms, and overflowings of the river, of which some have -recently taken place, many of the walls are thrown down. - -Bricks are in most general use for the walls of houses; three fifths of -those in the whole city are composed of them; the remaining part being -mostly constructed of mud; most of the Tartars in the old city are said -to inhabit dwellings of the latter kind. - -Stone and wood are rarely employed in erecting the walls of houses: -the first is frequently employed in making gate-ways and door-posts, -and the second for columns, beams, and rafters. Many of the floors in -houses and temples are formed of indurated mud; marble flags and tiles -are likewise used for roofs; they are laid in rows on the rafters, -alternately concave and convex, forming ridges and furrows, luted by a -cement of clay. - -Windows are small and rarely supplied with glass; paper, mica, shell, -or some other translucent substance, supplies its place; very little -iron is employed in building. - -The materials above named, for buildings, are procured here at moderate -prices and in great abundance. Wood, usually a species of the fir, is -floated down the rivers, and brought to the city in large rafts. Bricks -are made in the neighbourhood of Canton, brought hither in boats, and -sold at various prices, from three to eight shillings a thousand. -These bricks are of a leaden blue or of a pale brown colour; a few -being red; the variation of teint is produced by the different modes -of drying and burning them; the red bricks are those most thoroughly -burned; the leaden blue have received only a partial action of the -fire, the pale brown, the sun's action alone. - -Excellent stone for building is found in the hilly country on the north -of the province, and also in several of the islands, south of the city. -Granite and sandstone are those principally found and in great variety. - -Such is the general style and usual material of the buildings in -Canton. In passing through the city, the spectator is struck with the -great contrast between them, though this diversity does by no means -fully exhibit the relative condition and circumstances of the people: a -few only are rich, and the external appearance of their houses does not -exceed, in elegance, the dwellings of the middle class; many are very -poor--and the aspect of their abodes affords abundant evidence of their -abject state. - -[Sidenote: STATE OF THE POOR.] - -The poorest people are to be found in the extreme parts of the suburbs, -along the banks of the canals, and in the northern part of the old -city; their houses are mere mud-hovels; low, narrow, dark, unclean, -and without any division of apartments. A whole family, consisting of -six, eight, ten, and sometimes twice the number, is crowded into one -of these dreary abodes; yet we meet with individuals, enjoying health -and long life under these circumstances. To pass through the streets or -lanes of such a neighbourhood, is sufficient to reconcile a person to -any ordinary condition of life. - -Neither intelligence or industry could ever be confined in such -miserable cells. In habitations, a little more spacious and cleanly -than these, perhaps one third part of the people in Canton have their -abodes: these stand close on the street, and have usually but a single -entrance, which is closed by a bamboo screen, suspended from the top -of the door; within these houses, there are no superfluous apartments: -a single room is allotted to each branch of the family, while a third, -which completes the number within the whole enclosure, is used by all -the household as a common eating-room. - -[Sidenote: HOUSES.] - -Chinese houses usually open towards the south; but in these, as also in -the poorer kind, this favourite position is disregarded. Dwellings of -this description, are rented at four or five dollars a month. Another -class of houses, inhabited by a more wealthy but less numerous part of -the community, are the residences of those in easy circumstances, who -enjoy plenty without any of the accompaniments of luxury; these houses -together with the plot of ground on which they stand are surrounded by -a wall, twelve or fourteen feet high, that rises and fronts the street, -so as completely to conceal all the buildings from the traveller, as he -passes by. - -The prospect, in passing along the narrow streets which are lined with -these houses, is very cheerless. If allowed to enter some of these -dwellings more pleasing scenes will be presented. A stranger enters the -outer enclosure through a large folding door into an open court, thence -he is conducted by a servant to the visiters' hall; which is usually a -small apartment, furnished with chairs, sofas, tea-stands, &c.; here -the host presents himself to introduce his guest to the younger members -of the family. - -These halls are open on one side, the others being ornamented with -carved work, or hung with various scrolls presenting in large and -elegant characters, the moral maxims of their sages: or perhaps, -exhibiting rude landscapes, or paintings of birds and flowers. The -remaining portion of the enclosure is occupied with the domestic -apartments; a garden and, perhaps, a small school-room. - -The houses occupied by a few of the most opulent in Canton are by -no means inferior to the imperial palaces, excepting it be in the -space which they fill. The family residences of some among those -merchants, who are licensed by government to trade with foreigners, -furnish good specimens of this description of buildings. The seat of -the late Consequa, now half in ruins, was once superb; that of the -present senior hong-merchant, is on a scale of great magnificence; it -is a villa or rather palace, divided into suites of apartments, which -are highly and tastefully decorated. The dwellings occupied by the -government offices, and the numerous temples of the city, need not -be particularized in this place; suffice it to remark, that they are -usually more spacious than private houses, and that, at present, most -of them are in a very ordinary condition; very few of the houses or -temples in Canton, have more than one story, the halls of which are of -the whole height of the fabric, without any concealment of the beams or -rafters of the house. Terraces are often built above the roofs, and -when surrounded by a breastwork, afford in the cool of the day, a very -pleasant and secure retreat, to which the inmates can ascend, in order -to breathe a pure air, enjoy a wider prospect, or to witness any event -that transpires in the neighbourhood. These terraces are not perhaps -unlike the _flat-roofs_ of other orientals. In some other points there -is also a coincidence between the houses of the Chinese, and those -which are noticed in the sacred writings. - -Professor Jahn in his Biblical Archaeology, when referring to the -buildings described in the Scriptures, says: "The gates not only of -houses, but of cities, were customarily adorned with an inscription -which was to be extracted from the law of Moses; a practice in which -may be found the origin of the _modern_ Mezuzaw or piece of parchment -inscribed with sacred texts, and fastened to the door-posts. The gates -were always shut, and one of the servants acted the part of a porter: -the space immediately inside of the gate, called the porch, is square, -and on one side of it is erected a seat for the accommodation of -those strangers who are not to be admitted into the interior of the -house. From the porch we are introduced through a second door into -the court, which is commonly paved with marble, and surrounded on all -sides. Sometimes however only one side is enclosed, with a peristyle or -covered walk, over which, if the house has more than one story, there -is a gallery of the same dimensions, supported by columns and protected -by a balustrade. - -In the church, large companies are received at nuptials and feasts: on -such occasions, a large veil of thick cloth is extended by ropes over -the whole court, to exclude the sun's heat. The back part of the house, -called in Arabic, the harem, and in Hebrew, by way of eminence, _the -palace_, is allotted to the females. Behind the "harem," is a garden -into which the women can enjoy the pleasure of looking from their -apartments. In the smaller houses the females occupy the upper story; -the place assigned them also, by Homer in the "Iliad" and "Odyssey." - -In the buildings of the Chinese, the various inscriptions are seen -on the door-posts: the porter at the outer gate; the porch and court -within; the peristyle with its columns and perhaps a gallery above; -the palace, Kin-tee or "forbidden ground," with its garden, bears a -striking resemblance to those of the above description. The inner -apartments of the emperor are in like manner, by way of eminence, -called _Kung-teen_, or the "palace." - -[Sidenote: DUTIES OF GOVERNOR.] - -The government of Canton now claims our notice. Here, as in every other -place throughout the dominions of the Mantchow Chinese, all power -emanates from one man, honoured as the vicegerent of "High heaven;" -hence the present line of monarchs have not been satisfied with the -dignity of sovereigns but have laid claim to the character of sages. - -The sovereign of men, say they, "is heaven's son; nobles and statesmen -are the sovereign's children; the people are the children of nobles -and statesmen. The sovereign should serve heaven as a father, never -forgetting to cherish reverential thoughts, but exciting himself to -illustrate his virtues, and looking up to receive from heaven, the -vast patrimony which it confers; thus the emperors will daily increase -in felicity and glory. Nobles and ministers of state should serve -their sovereign as a father, never forgetting to cherish reverential -thoughts, not harbouring covetous and sordid desires, nor engaging in -wicked and clandestine thoughts, but faithfully and justly exerting -themselves; thus their noble rank will be preserved. The people should -never forget to cherish reverential thoughts towards the nobles and -ministers of state, to obey and keep the laws; to excite no secret or -open rebellion; then no great calamity will befall their persons." - -In accordance with these views, a spacious hall called _Wan-show-kung_ -is dedicated to the emperor, in every province of the empire, the walls -and appertenances of which are _yellow_, which is the imperial colour. -In Canton the _Wan-show-kung_ stands near the southeast corner of the -new city, within the walls. It is used solely for the honour of the -emperor and his family, and, annually, three days prior and subsequent -to the imperial birth days, all the civil and military officers of -the government, together with the principal inhabitants of the city, -assemble in it, and there pay him adoration. - -The same solemnities are required on these occasions as if the monarch -were present; no seats are allowed in the sacred place; every one -who repairs there, takes with him a cushion upon which he sits, -cross-legged, on the ground. So much is done for _absent_ majesty. - -Among the principal officers, who exercise authority in the -city of Canton is first, Tsung-tuh: this officer is styled -Leang-kwang-tsung-tuh, or the governor of the province of Kwang-tung -and Kwang-se. He is clothed with high authority, and in many cases -independent of all the other officers within the limits of his -jurisdiction; usually, however, he acts in concert and confers with -them who like himself, have been sent hither from the capital. He has -no power to originate or carry into execution any law or regulation, -without the sanction of the emperor, and is required to act according -to precedents and existing statutes. In certain cases pointed out by -law, he can, with the concurrence of foo-yuen, inflict immediate death. - -New regulations are frequently proposed to the emperor by the governor -and his council; when these have received the imperial sanction, -(which they generally do,) they have the force of law. The governor is -ex-officio, an honorary president of the supreme tribunal at Peking, -and occasionally, a member of the imperial cabinet. His commands are -most peremptory, and his authority can never be slighted or resisted -with impunity. The responsibilities of his office are great: he is -accountable to the emperor for the good management of all affairs in -the two provinces; the prosperity of the people and the fruitfulness -of the seasons are also items in the vast account which he must render -to his sovereign: he is required to make a faithful report of every -calamity which may come within the pale of his jurisdiction, whether -occasioned by fire, pestilence, earthquake, or famine, to the emperor -and the supreme tribunal, under penalty of being dismissed from office. -Any real or supposed deficiency in his capacity, subjects him to the -most severe punishment. The late governor of the province, Le, may be -adduced to prove this fact, who, during the last year for the "untoward -affair" of Leen-chow, was deprived of all rank and honours, chained, -imprisoned, condemned, and sent into banishment. - -In case of fire breaking out in the provincial city, and consuming more -than ten houses, the governor is fined nine months' pay; if more than -thirty houses are consumed, he forfeits one year's salary, if three -hundred are destroyed, he is degraded one degree. - -Fires occurring in the suburbs, do not subject him to the same -punishments. All the principal officers and a few of the most -respectable private citizens, frequently wait on his excellency. These -"calls" are visits of business or ceremony, according to circumstances, -and more or less frequent, as the disposition of the parties may -direct. On certain occasions, such as the arrival of a new governor, -all the civil and military officers of both provinces, are required to -send to him "an accurate and conspicuous account of themselves, their -term of service, and the condition of their respective districts." -"But whoever," said one of the late governors, "of the superior or -inferior officers, or the salt or hong merchants, or any other persons, -shall represent himself to be intimate with me and in my confidence, -or if persons shall write to each other to that effect, or shall -suffer themselves to be thus deceived; he or they shall be arrested -and brought to trial; and those who conceal such reports shall be -considered as equally guilty with those who give rise to them." - -All ultimate appeals in the two provinces, are made to the governor. -At the gate of his palace are placed six tablets, in which are written -appropriate inscriptions for those who wish to appeal to his authority; -the _first_ is for those who have been wronged by covetous, corrupt, or -sordid officers: the _second_, for those who have suffered by thieves -or robbers; the _third_ for such as have been falsely accused; the -_fourth_, for those who have been injured by swindlers and gamesters; -the _fifth_, for such as have suffered by wicked persons of any -description, and the _sixth_ is for those who wish to give information -concerning any secret schemes or machinations. - -On the _third_ and _eighth_, the _thirteenth_ and _eighteenth_, the -_twenty-third_ and _twenty-eighth_ days of each month, the people are -allowed to take these tablets in their hands, and to enter one of the -outer apartments of the palace, where they may, in person, present -their complaints to his excellency. This mode of proceeding is however -seldom adopted: to send or carry up a petition to his gate, is the most -common method of seeking redress from the hands of the governors. When -all these means fail, an appeal may be made to Peking. - -The mode of appeal by entering the gate of the magistrate, is allowed -also at the offices of foo-yuen, and an-cha-sze. - -The governor's house stands in the new city, near the yew-lan gate; it -is spacious and belongs to the government. The salary of this officer -is fifteen thousand taels, annually. It is generally believed that -his extra emoluments during the same period, amount to more than -twelve times that sum; although presents of every kind, to officers of -government, are disallowed. - -Loo-kwan, the present governor, is an aged man, and a native of one of -the northern provinces. He seems to belong to that class of persons -who are fond of ease and pleasure, very ambitious--but desirous that -all under their authority should know their places and perform their -respective duties. He has a large number of persons employed about him, -as advisers, secretaries, servants, &c. A small number of troops, who -serve as a body-guard, are also attached to him, and at the same time, -constitute a part of the city-police. - -Foo-yuen, the second officer, who is also called seun-foo, is usually -styled, by foreigners, "lieutenant-governor." His jurisdiction is -confined to this province, in which he is second in authority. The -title of _Choo_, the present foo-yuen, as it appears in the government -papers, runs thus: "An attendant officer of the military board; a -member of the court of universal examiners; an imperial censor; -patrolling soother of Canton; a guide of military affairs and a -controller of taxes." - -[Sidenote: DIVISION OF POWER.] - -Division of power, when it is to be intrusted to those who have been -selected from the people, is the policy of the Mantchow family. The -foo-yuen, though second to the governor, is not under his control; and -in certain cases, acts independently of him. - -They often confer together, and in matters in which they cannot agree, -refer for a decision to Peking. The foo-yuen holds the _wang-ming_, -"king's order," or death warrant, by virtue of which criminals, in -cases of great emergency, can be put to the sword without a reference -to the emperor. His residence is in the old city, in a palace built -in the reign of Shwn-che, by one of the Tartar generals, who was sent -hither to "pacify" the rebellious subjects of the South. Choo is a -native of Keeang-soo and a thorough-bred son of Han--stern, resolute, -and even obstinate--rather careless about emolument, a comtemner of -bribes--a terror to bandits, a hater of "divine vagabonds"--respected -by few, and feared by all. In his person, he is tall and well formed; -his looks show that he has "gone hither and thither," discharging the -functions of public life, without toil and anxiety. His origin is very -humble and he has grown old in the service of his country. He has one -son who is a source of grief to his parent; like the governor, he has -a small body of soldiers under his command, but the number of persons -kept in his immediate employ, is small. In his habits of living--we -have his own word for it--the patrolling soother of Canton is both -simple and an example to the people. - -Tseang-keun, the third officer, usually denominated the Tartar general, -is commander of the Tartar troops in Canton, and is answerable for -the defence of the city. In most cases he acts independently of the -tsung-tuh and foo-yuen. The soldiers under his immediate command, -except a small detachment stationed on the river, are quartered in the -old city, where the general keeps his court and camp. He is always, -we believe, a mantchow and not unfrequently a member of the imperial -family. - -Subordinate to the tseang-keun, there are two foo-too-tungs or -lieutenant-generals, and a great number of inferior officers, who rank -as majors, captains, lieutenants, &c. His house, which was built by -Tsing-nan-wang, is said to exhibit some of the finest specimens of -architecture that can be found in the provincial city. - -Hae-kwan-keen-tuh, the fourth officer, is known to foreigners and -often addressed by them as, "the grand hoppo of the port of Canton." -He is generally a member of the imperial household, and receives -his appointment direct from the emperor. His jurisdiction (he being -commissioner of customs) is limited to the maritime commerce of Canton. -We shall have occasion, subsequently, to speak of this department, when -the commerce of the city is referred to. - -Heo-yuen, the fifth officer, holds the highest literary appointment -in the province; he is usually spoken of, as "the literary chancellor -of Canton." His office is one of great influence and respectability, -inasmuch as literary rank, of which he is judge and dispenser, is -necessary for preferment to all civil offices in the state. He has -a general supervision of all public schools, colleges, and literary -examinations, within the province. On some occasions his authority -extends to the military department. - -The sixth officer, Poo-ching-sze, is the controller of the revenue -of the province; under the foo-yuen, he directs the appointment and -removal of all the subordinate officers of the local government. The -principal officers under him, are the king-leih or secretary, and a -koo-ta-sze or keeper of the treasury. - -Gan-cha-sze or an-cha-sze, the seventh officer, is criminal judge of -the province; all the criminal cases which occur within its limits, -are brought before him for trial. Sometimes he sits in judgment alone; -but in cases involving the life of the accused, he is usually assisted -by other chief officers of the province. A degree of civil power, at -times, appertains to him in conjunction with the poo-ching-sze. The -government posts are under his control;--among other officers attached -to this department, there is a sze-yo who has the general management of -the provincial prisoners; his rank and his duties are similar to those -of the keeper of a state-prison. - -Yen-yun-sze, the eighth officer, has the superintendence of the state -department: there are, under him, a yun-tung who attends to the -transportation of salt from one place to another, and several other -minor officers. - -The salt-trade is a government monopoly, the duties upon which form an -important branch of the imperial revenue. This trade is limited to a -small number of licensed merchants, who are generally very rich, and -are often called upon to make liberal grants towards the support of the -provincial government. - -The ninth officer, Tuh-leang-taou, has the control of all the public -granaries in the province; their superintendents are subject to his -direction and inspection. Canton and the suburbs contain fourteen -public granaries; these are required to be kept filled in order to -furnish supplies for the people, in times of scarcity. - -Kwang-chow-foo-chee-foo, or a magistrate of the department of -Kwang-chow-foo, is the tenth officer in Canton; his title is often -abridged, sometimes to Kwang-chow, at others, to Che-foo: Kwang-chow -is simply the name of the foo. Chee-foo means, literally, "known of -the department (or foo)," and denotes that it is the office or duty of -this magistrate to be fully acquainted with the portion of territory -over which he is placed. Either term is sufficient to denote, pretty -nearly, what is the authority of an officer placed at the head of all -the affairs of such a division of the province. There are numerous -civil officers placed in various parts of the department, all of whom -are under his immediate inspection. He has also under his authority -a sze-yo, whose duties, as superintendent of the prisoners of the -department, are similar to those of chief jailer in a county-prison. - -The eleventh principal officer in the province is -Nan-hae-heen-che-heen; this officer is subordinate to the che-foo, and -is to the district of Nan-hae what the che-foo is to the department of -Kwang-chow. As che-heen, he is required to know all the affairs of the -district. The department of Kwang-chow is divided into fourteen heens -or districts, of which Nan-hae and Pwan-yu are two of the principal, -and include the city of Canton. - -The last officer whom we shall particularize, is Pwan-yu-heen-che-heen; -the rank and duties of this magistrate are the same in the district -of Pwan-yu as are the last-named officers in the district of Nan-hae: -their titles, like that of the che-foo, are commonly abridged; thus, -when speaking of the Nan-hae magistrate, the people say, Nan-hae-heen; -and when it is not necessary to mention the district, they simply say -che-heen, designating by each of their phrases, the magistrate of the -district of Nan-hae. - -We have named and characterized as far as our limits will admit, and -the nature of the subject requires, the principal officers who exercise -authority in Canton; the reader will doubtless find it difficult, as -we have done, to determine the exact limitation of their respective -spheres, which, like the courses of the planets, often seem to -intersect each other. At first sight of so many bodies, all in motion -within limits so narrow, we feel surprised that they do not come -into collision, destroy each other and carry destruction through the -empire. On a close inspection, however, we are able to discover some -of the secret laws which govern this complicated system, preserve it -in being, and keep it in motion. Two influences, the one military, and -the other literary, are perhaps the principal forces which regulate and -control the measures of the Chinese government. Religion, which often -has a gigantic power over governments, is here blended with civil and -state ceremonies, and exerts but a feeble, and usually a most baneful -influence on the political destinies of the nation. - -All the officers enumerated in the foregoing list, excepting the -two che-heens, the che-foo, and the tseang-keun, are general -officers--their jurisdiction extending to all other parts of the -province, as well as over the metropolis. There are likewise two other -officers, commanders-in-chief of the land and naval forces, who, like -the other members of the provincial government, act alone in certain -cases, and sometimes in concert with the other general officers. The -government is despotic as well as military; and so constructed, that -those who form the provincial government, shall, while they enjoy a -degree of independence, serve as mutual checks; while at the same -time, each superior officer is held responsible for those who are -subordinate, and accountable for himself. Even in the location of -these officers, there has been a cautious reference to "division and -balance of power." For example: the tsung-tuh is stationed in the new -city, almost within a stone's-throw of his majesty's most faithful -"slave," the hoppo; the foo-yuen and the tsang-kuen are placed in -similar positions in reference to each other: these two last are so -located in the old city, that, should circumstances require, they -could act against the two first, in the new city. The same principle -is observable likewise, if we mistake not, in the disposition which -is made of the troops. The whole land and naval force throughout the -province, has been estimated (nominally) at about one hundred thousand -men; all of whom are with fixed limitations, under the control of the -governor; he has, however, the immediate and sole command of only five -thousand, and these are stationed at a distance from the city. On all -ordinary occasions, except when he goes to a distance from Canton, -he is escorted by a detachment from the kwang-chow-hee, (the chief -military officer of Kwang-chow,) which, in the absence of his own -troops, serves him for a body-guard, and constitutes, at the same time, -a part of the police of the city. The foo-yuen has only two thousand -at his command; while the tseang-keun has five thousand, which, in -an extreme case, would enable him to become master of the city. The -proper seat of the governor is at Shaou-king-foo, several miles west of -this city; but on account of the superior advantages of Canton, he is -allowed to reside here; he cannot, however, bring his troops hither, -lest, in conjunction with the foo-yuen, they should prove more than a -match for the Tartar general-commandant and his five thousand fighting -men. It should be remarked here, that no individual can hold an office -in any province, department, or district of the empire, that includes -the place of his nativity, or that extends within several hundred _le_ -of it. - -The whole number of soldiers, ordinarily quartered in the city, does -not probably exceed seven thousand. There are in the immediate vicinity -of Canton, a few small forts, and the city itself is intended to be a -stronghold; but neither is in such a state that they would serve any -very valuable purposes of defence. Even the late rain-storm carried -away one of the gates of the city, and opened a wide breach in the -walls. Most of the forts are dismantled and defenceless, and present -nothing more formidable than the frightful paintings of tiger's heads, -on the wooden lids which block up their port-holes. The two _follies_, -Dutch and French _follies_ as they are called, are situated in the -river opposite to the city, and are fair specimens of the forts about -Canton; there are likewise for the defence of the city, what have been -called cavalry, and artillery; but of these, we have heard little, and -seen nothing. Of the Tartar troops, there are two hundred chosen men, -who on state occasions, appear well clad and warlike; but, generally, -the soldiers are badly equipped, and poorly disciplined. All their -armour and accoutrements, consisting of shields and helmets, bows -and arrows, spears and javelins, short-swords and matlocks, seem ill -fitted either for defence or attack; the heavy losses sustained by the -troops of Canton, during the late highland war at Seen-chow, fully -confirm these remarks; as do also recent imperial edicts, in which the -soldiery are accused of idleness and lazy habits, and of "indulging -in all the softness of civilians;" the police of the city is on the -whole, vigilant and efficient. Besides those who act in the capacity of -constables, thief-takers, &c., constituting the regular police, there -are many neighbourhoods, as well as private individuals, which make -arrangements for a constant nocturnal watch during the night; almost -all the streets of the city are shut up by strong gates at each end; -near one of which there is usually a guard-house. The night-watches -are distinguished by bells, or some similar instruments kept by the -watchmen, in the winter months, when there is great danger from fire, -as well as thieves. Watch-towers are built on bamboo poles, high above -the roofs of the houses; thus constituting a double watch. When thieves -are discovered, or when a fire breaks out in any part of the city, the -alarm by means of the watchmen, spreads quickly from one extremity of -the city to the other. When riotous assemblies collect in the streets, -they are, in most cases, speedily dissolved by a vigorous application -of the bamboo or whip; many, doubtless, "shove by justice," and to -the day of their death go unpunished; yet the number who are arrested -and brought to trial, annually, is very great; justice is often -administered in the most summary manner; not unfrequently, in minor -cases, the man receives the punishment, and again goes free, the same -hour in which he commits the crime. - -[Sidenote: JUSTICE--JAILS.] - -The forms of trial are simple: there is no jury, no pleading; the -criminal kneels before the magistrate, who hears the witnesses and -passes sentence; he is then remanded to prison, or sent to the place of -execution. Seldom is he acquitted; when witnesses are wanting, he is -sometimes tortured until he gives evidence against himself. - -There are four jails in Canton; which together contain several hundred -prisoners; the jail is called te-yo, _hell_, or literally "earth's -prison." All capital offenders suffer just without the southern gates, -near the river; hundreds die there annually. When brought to the -fatal spot, they kneel with their faces towards the emperor's court, -and bending forward in the attitude of submission and thanksgiving, -suddenly expire beneath the bloody sword of the executioner. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - - LITERARY INSTITUTIONS OF - CHINA--EXAMINATIONS--SCHOOLS--TEACHERS--SCHOOL-ROOM - CEREMONIES--COLLEGES--DOMESTIC COMMERCE--POPULATION OF THE - PROVINCES--IMPORTS--EXPORTS. - - -The _Literary Institutions_ of China, are the pillars that give -stability to the government. Her military forces are utterly inadequate -to hold together the numerous and extensive provinces and territories, -that constitute the wide dominions of the reigning dynasty. With great -difficulty the Tartar troops overrun the country; conquering province -after province, and gradually extending their authority over the -territories on the west of China Proper. But for a long period both the -discipline and the energies of the Chinese soldiery have been on the -wane: and at this moment the imperial hosts present nothing formidable -but their numerical amount; the recent insurrections at Leen-chow and -Formosa, have afforded the most complete evidence of this imbecility. -Not only in this part of the empire, but along the whole coast up to -the great wall on the north, and even beyond that in Mantchou Tartary, -both the land and naval forces have become so exceedingly enervated and -dissolute, that they exercise no salutary influence or control, except -over a few, who are equally debased with themselves. As police-men, -in the capacity of lictors, thief-takers, and executioners, they are -not less detested than feared by the common people; they are in fact, -for all purposes of defence, little better than _dead men_; were they -stricken from the catalogue of the living, we can scarcely doubt that -the stability of the empire would remain unimpaired. - -There are many who look with astonishment at the magnitude of this -empire, and believe it strong and immoveable as the everlasting hills. -But an examination of its history and present organization, would show -them that it has been frequently rent and broken by rebel chieftains, -ambitious statesmen, and haughty kings; and that its present greatness -is chiefly attributable to its peculiar literary institutions. These, -though they are the glory and strength of the nation, are, except for -mere purposes of government, amazingly deficient; and it is their -relative rather than intrinsic value, that renders them worthy of -special notice. Wealth and patronage have great influence here; they -often control the acts of government, stay the course of justice, cover -the guilty, and confer honours and emoluments on the undeserving. -But as a general rule, _learning_, while it is an indispensable -prerequisite for all those who aspire to places of trust and authority -in the state, is sure to command respect, influence, and distinction. - -Thus, without the dreadful alternative of overthrowing the powers that -be, a way is opened to ambitious youth, by which he may reach the -highest station in the empire; the throne only excepted. Usually the -most distinguished statesmen are those who have risen to eminence by -intellectual efforts: they are at once the philosophers, the teachers, -and rulers of the land. These distinctions they cannot however -maintain, without yielding implicit obedience to the will of the -monarch, which is most absolute and uncontrolled. Let them honour and -obey the power that is over them, and they stand; dependant indeed on -the one hand, but on the other, in proud and envied distinction. - -[Sidenote: LITERARY EXAMINATIONS.] - -High rank in the state is the brightest glory to which this people -aspire; with them, learning derives its chief value from the simple -fact, that it brings them within the reach of that dazzling prize. -Strict examinations, regulated by a fixed code of laws, have been -instituted and designed solely to elicit from the body of the community -the "_true talent_" of the people, with the ulterior intention of -applying it to purposes of government. At these examinations, which -are open to all except menial servants, lictors, players, and priests, -it is determined who shall rise to distinction and shed glory on their -ancestors and posterity--who shall live on in obscurity and die and be -forgotten. The competitors of the Olympic games never entered the arena -before the assembled thousands of their countrymen, with deeper emotion -than that which agitates the bosoms of those who contest the palm of -these literary combats. The days on which they are held, and their -results published in Canton, are the proudest which its inhabitants -ever witnessed. A brief notice of them may be interesting to the -reader, and at the same time enable him to understand more fully the -nature and object of the schools and colleges of the provincial city. - -The highest literary examinations in the empire are triennial, and take -place at Peking. Besides these, there are also occasional examinations -granted by special favour of the emperor. Up to these contests, the -most distinguished scholars go, from all the provinces. This privilege -is not gained without long, patient, and successful endeavour; the -examinations at which it is determined who shall enjoy it, occur also -triennially and are held in the metropolis of each province. These -examinations are of incomparable interest to great multitudes of the -people, in every department and district of the empire. High honours, -rich emoluments, and in a word, every thing that the young aspirant -and his numerous kindred most esteem, are at stake; a long season of -preparation has been endured, heavy expenses incurred; and now the -decisive hour approaches. - -Two examiners are chosen from distinguished officers at Peking, under -the immediate superintendance of the emperor; within five days after -they are chosen, they must leave the capital. They are allowed the use -of the post-horses belonging to government. Upon those who come to -Canton six hundred taels are conferred, to defray their expenses while -on the road; two hundred of which are paid when they commence their -journey from Peking, and the remainder by the governor of the province, -when they are about to return after the examination is completed. - -The above examiners are assisted by ten others, who are selected from -the local officers over whom the foo-yuen presides. Besides these there -are many inferior officers, who are employed as inspectors, guards, -&c. All these, together with the candidates, their attendants, &c., -amounting to ten thousand and upward, assemble at the Kung-yuen, a -large and spacious building designed solely for these occasions. It -contains numerous apartments, so that each candidate may be seated -separately from his competitors. All the seats are numbered. The -apartments are low and narrow, have only a single entrance, and no -furniture except a chair and a narrow writing-desk. - -The number of candidates who assemble in Canton is between seven and -eight thousand. They are often attended by their friends, and continue -here for several weeks, and sometimes for months; during which time the -hum and bustle of the city are greatly increased, and every kind of -mercantile business receives a new impulse. These candidates are always -persons of some distinction, which they must have gained, either at -previous examinations or by the payment of large sums of money. They -are all called _sew-tsae_, a title not unlike that of master of arts; -they are divided into several classes; those who have purchased their -degree are often despised by the others, and are generally regarded -with less respect than those who have gained it by their own merits. -They meet on equal terms, and their "true nobility" is to be determined -by personal efforts, which are to be made during a fixed period and -under fixed circumstances. The candidates assemble on the eighth moon; -but none are allowed to enter the examination except those who have -been previously enrolled by the literary chancellor of the province. -The age, features, place of residence, and lineage, of each candidate -must be given in the chancellor's list, and a copy of it lodged in the -office of the "foo-yuen." They must all attend at the examinations in -their native province; and those who give in a false account of their -family and lineage, or place of nativity, are expelled and degraded; -for no candidate can be admitted at any place without proving that his -family has been resident there for three generations. - -The examination continues for several days, and each student must -undergo a series of trials. The first is on the ninth of the moon, -the second on the twenty-second, and the third on the fifteenth. -The candidates are required to enter their apartments, on the day -preceding the examination, and are not allowed to leave them until the -day after it has closed. Thus they must pass two nights in close and -solitary confinement. On the first day of their examination, _three_ -themes, which are selected from the "_Four books_," are proposed to -them, and they are required to give the meaning and scope of each, -to which a fourth is added, on which they must compose a short _poem -in rhyme_. On the second day, a theme is given them from each of the -"_Five classics_;" and on the third day, five questions, which shall -refer to the history or political economy of the country. The themes -must be sententious, and have a meaning which is refined and profound. -They must not be such as have often been discussed. Those which are -given out for poetry, must be grave and important. In the themes for -essays on political economy, the chief topics must be concerning things -of real importance, the principles of which are clear and evidently -of a correct nature. "There is no occasion to search and inquire -into devious and unimportant subjects." All questions concerning the -character and learning of statesmen of the present dynasty, as well as -all topics which relate to its policy, must be carefully avoided. The -paper on which the themes and essays are written is prepared with great -care; and must be inspected at the office of the poo-ching-sze. It is -firm and thick, and the only kind that may be used. The price of it is -fixed by authority. The number of characters, both in the themes and -essays, is limited. The lines must be straight, and all the characters -full and fair. At the close of every paper, containing elegant -composition, verses, or answers to questions, it must be stated by the -students how many characters have been blotted out or altered; if the -number exceed one hundred, the writer is tsee-chuh, "pasted out;" which -means, that his name is pasted up at the gate of the hall, as having -violated the rules of the examination, and he is forthwith excluded -from that year's examination. - -There are usually a hundred or more persons at every examination in -Canton subject to this punishment, for breaking this, or some other -of the regulations. The candidates are not allowed "to get drunk" -and "behave disorderly" during the examination. All intercourse of -civility between the examiners and the relations of the students -must be discontinued; and there must be no interchange of letters, -food, &c. On entering the outer gate of the kung-yuen, each candidate -must write his name in a register, kept for that purpose; if it is -afterward discovered that the name was erroneously written, then the -officer superintending the register, if it be found that he is an -accomplice in registering a spurious essay, shall, with the candidate -for literary honours who has violated the law, be tried and punished. -Moreover, the student, on entering the hall of examination, must be -searched; and if it be discovered that he has with him any precomposed -essay, or miniature copy of the classics, he shall be punished by -wearing a wooden collar, degraded from the rank of sew-tsae, and for -ever incapacitated to stand as a candidate for literary honours; and -the father and tutor of the delinquent shall both be prosecuted and -punished. All the furniture and utensils, such as the writing-desks, -inkstands, &c., in the apartments where the students write their -essays, must be searched; and also, each and all of the managers, -copyists, attendant officers, servants, porters, &c. If, in any manner, -a learned person, who is to decide on the papers, be admitted to the -apartments of the students, dressed as a servant, he shall be punished; -and the chief examiner delivered over to a court of inquiry. A watch, -composed of military officers and soldiers, is maintained day and -night, both in the inner and outer courts of the hall; and if any of -these men are guilty of conveying papers to the candidates, concealed -with their food, or in any other way, they shall be punished. - -There are many other regulations and precautions which have been -adopted to prevent fraud, but a sufficient number have been stated to -show somewhat of the interest which gathers around these examinations, -and the schemes which are formed to gain distinction, without the toil -and fatigue of hard study. Of the thousands of candidates assembled at -these examinations in Canton, only seventy-one can obtain the degree -of Kew-jing; the names of the successful essayists are published by -a proclamation, which is issued on or before the tenth of the ninth -moon, and within twenty-five days subsequent to the closing of the -examination. This time is allowed to the examiners to read the essays, -and prepare their report. The proclamation, which contains the name -of the successful candidates, after it has received its appropriate -signatures, is pasted up at the office of the foo-yuen. - -At a given hour three guns are fired; and the foo-yuen at the same -time comes forth from his palace, accompanying the official paper; it -is forthwith pasted up, and again a salute of three guns is fired; -his excellency then advances, and bows three times towards the names -of the "promoted men," (hin-jir), and finally retires under another -salute of three guns. Ten thousand minds are now relieved from their -long suspense. Swift messengers are despatched by those who have -won the prize, to announce to their friends the happy result of the -long trial which they have undergone; while the _many_ return with -disappointment to their homes, the successful _few_ are loaded with -encomiums and congratulations, and their names with their essays sent -up to the emperor. To crown the whole, a banquet is prepared for these -newly-promoted men, of which the examiners and all the civil officers -of rank in the province partake. Gold and silver cups for the occasion -must be provided by the provincial treasurer. The chief examiner, -from Peking, presides; the foo-yuen, at whose palace the banquet is -given, and who is present as visiter, is seated on the right, and the -assistant-examiner on his left. The governor of the province is also -present, a train of inferior officers wait as servants, and two lads, -dressed like _naiads_, holding in their hands branches of olive, grace -the scene with a song from their ancient classics. - -There are three other examinations in Canton, which occur twice in -three years, and are attended by great numbers of aspirants. At the -first, which is attended by the students of Nan-hae and Pwanyu, the -che-heens preside; at the second, which is attended by candidates from -all the districts of Kwang-chow-foo, the che-foo presides; but the -third is conducted by the literary chancellor of the province, whose -prerogative it is to confer the degree of sew-tsae upon a limited -number of the most distinguished competitors. - -[Sidenote: LITERARY INSTITUTIONS.] - -These are preparatory to the triennial examination, and inferior to -it in interest; they need not, therefore, be further particularized. -It may be remarked, however, that they are open to persons of all -ages; and a case very recently occurred where a hoary head of eighty, -accompanied by a son and grandson, attended the examination; all of -them were candidates for the same literary honours. To qualify the -young for these examinations, and thereby prepare them for rank and -office in the state, is a leading object of the higher schools and -colleges among the Chinese. But a great majority of the schools in -Canton are designed only to prepare youth for the common duties of -private life. These latter, as well as many of the higher schools, -are _private_ establishments. And though there are teachers appointed -by government, in all the districts of the empire, yet there are no -public or charity-schools for the benefit of the great mass of the -community. Whatever may be his object and final distinction, almost -every scholar in Canton commences his course at some one of the private -schools. These, among the numerous inhabitants of this city, assume a -great variety of form and character, according to the peculiar fancy -of individuals. The opulent, who are desirous of pushing forward -their sons rapidly, provide for them able teachers, who shall devote -the whole time to the instruction of two, three, or four pupils. A -school of this description we have repeatedly visited; it is in a hall -belonging to merchants from Ning-po, and is kept by an old man, who has -three lads under his care; one five, another seven, and a third nine -years old: he instructs them in the learned dialects, and the youngest -has already made greater proficiency than is usually accomplished by -boys at the age of ten. Sometimes the inhabitants of a single street, -or a few families who are related to each other, unite, have a teacher, -and fit up a school-room, each defraying a stipulated part of the -expenses. At other times, the teacher publishes the rules and terms on -which he will conduct his school, and seeks for scholars wherever he -can find them. Children are not generally sent to school until they -are seven or eight years old; they enter, usually, for a whole year, -and must pay for that term whether they attend regularly or not. The -wages of the teachers vary greatly: in some instances (and they are not -unfrequent in the country) the lads pay only two or three dollars, but -generally fifteen or twenty per annum. When the teacher devotes his -whole time to two or three pupils, he often receives a hundred dollars -from each. - -The ordinary school-room, with all its defects, presents an interesting -scene. At the head of it there is a tablet, on which the name of the -sage--"_the teacher and pattern for myriads of ages_"--is written in -large capital letters; a small altar is placed before it, upon which -incense and candles are kept constantly burning. Every morning, when -the scholar enters the room, he bows first before the tablet, and -then to his teacher; the former is not merely a tribute of respect, -but an act of worship, which he is taught, nay, compelled, to pay to -Confucius. The boys usually continue in school from six o'clock in the -morning until six in the evening, except two or three hours, which they -are allowed for their meals. When in school, they all study aloud, -each raising his voice at the same time, and striving to outdo his -fellows, the noise of which is very great. Upon those who are idle or -disobedient, the teacher plies the _rattan_, with woful severity. Every -lesson must be committed perfectly to memory, and the lad who fails in -this, is obliged to bow down, and learn it upon his knees; those who -are the most incorrigible are made to kneel on gravel, small stones, -or something of the kind, in order to enhance their punishment. The -San-tse-king, the famous "three-character classics," is the first book -which is put into the hands of the learner. Though written expressly -for infant minds, it is scarcely better fitted for them than the -propositions of Euclid would be, were they thrown into rhyme. But, "it -is not to be understood" at first; and the tyro, when he can rehearse -it from beginning to end, takes up the Four books, and masters them in -the same manner. Thus far the young learners go, without understanding -aught, or but little, of what they recite; and here those who are not -destined to a literary course, after having learned to write a few -characters, must close their education. The others now commence the -commentary on the Four books, and commit it to memory in the same -way; and then pass on to the other classics. The study of arithmetic, -geography, history, &c., forms no part of a "common-school" education. - -The high schools and colleges are numerous, but none of them are -richly endowed, or well fitted for the purposes of education. The high -schools, which are _fourteen_ in number, are somewhat similar to the -private grammar-schools in England and America; with this difference, -that the former are nearly destitute of pupils. There are _thirty_ -colleges; most of which were founded many centuries since. Several of -them are now deserted, and falling to ruins. Three of the largest have -about two hundred students each, and, like all the others, only one or -two professors. We have sought long and diligently, but thus far in -vain, for some definite information concerning the existing discipline -and regulations of these colleges; should we affirm that they are -without rules and order, we should say what we do not doubt, but -cannot prove. All those systems of instruction which have sprung up in -modern times, and are now accomplishing so much for the nations of the -West, are here entirely unknown. There are a few books in the Chinese -language which contain excellent maxims on the subject of education, -give numerous rules to facilitate the acquisition of knowledge, and -detail systems of gymnastic exercises for the preservation of health. - -Of the whole population of Canton, not more than one half are able -to read. Perhaps not one boy out of ten is left entirely destitute -of instruction, yet, of the other sex, not one in ten ever learns to -read or write. There is scarcely a school for girls in the whole city. -Public sentiment--immemorial usage--and many passages in the classics, -are against female education; the consequence is, that females are -left uninstructed, and sink far below that point in the scale of -being, for which they are fitted, and which they ought ever to hold. -The degradation into which the fairest half of the human species is -here thrown, affords cause for loud complaint against the wisdom and -philosophy of the sages and legislators of the celestial empire. We do -not knowingly detract from the merits of the Chinese; in comparison -with other Asiatics, they are a learned and polished race. Those who -have been educated are generally remarkably fond of books: and though -there are no public libraries in Canton, yet the establishments for -manufacturing and vending books are numerous. To supply those who are -unable to purchase for themselves the works they need, a great number -of circulating libraries are kept constantly in motion. - -While the purest moral maxims are found mixed up at times, in the -Chinese language, as in ours, with gross licentiousness, the charge -does not lie against works comprising the library of the youthful -students, which, in this particular, is wholly unexceptionable. - -The situation of Canton and the policy of the Chinese government, -together with various other causes, have made it the scene of a very -extensive _domestic_ and _foreign_ commerce. With the exception of -the Russian caravans which traverse the northern frontiers of China, -and the Portuguese and Spanish ships which visit Macao, the whole -trade between the Chinese empire and the nations of the West centres -at this place. Here the productions of every part of China are found, -and a very brisk and lucrative commerce is carried on by merchants -and factors from all the provinces. Merchandise is brought here from -Tonquin, (Tung-king) Cochin-China, Camboja, Siam, Malaca, or the Malay -peninsula, the eastern Archipelago, the ports of India, the nations -of Europe, the different states of North and South America, and the -islands of the Pacific. We shall briefly notice the several branches of -this extensive commerce, enumerate some of the principal commodities -which are brought to this city, as well as those which are carried from -it, and add such remarks concerning the situation and circumstances of -the trade, and those who conduct it, as seem necessary to exhibit its -full magnitude and importance. - -[Sidenote: DOMESTIC COMMERCE.] - -Concerning the _domestic_ commerce, we can do little more than mention -the articles which are here bought and sold for the several provinces; -each of which we shall notice separately, that we may, by taking a -view of their position and number of inhabitants at the same time, see -to what advantage the present trade is conducted, and the probability -of its future increase or diminution. The maritime provinces claim -priority of notice, after which, those on the northern, western, and -southern frontiers will pass under review, and finally, those in the -centre of China proper. The colonial trade is, in the present view, -omitted. - -From _Fuh-keen_, come the black teas, camphor, sugar, indigo, tobacco, -paper, lacquered ware, excellent grass-cloth, and a few mineral -productions. Woollen and cotton cloths of various kinds, wines, -watches, &c., are sent to that province; which, with its population of -fourteen millions, might, in different circumstances, receive a far -greater amount of foreign manufactures and productions in exchange -for its own. The trade of the province is carried on under great -disadvantages. It has been shown by an accurate and detailed comparison -between the expense of conveying black teas from the country where they -are produced, to Canton, and of their conveyance from thence to the -port of Fuh-chow in Fuh-keen, that the privilege of admission to the -latter port would be attended with a saving to the East India Company -of L150,000 annually, in the purchase of black teas alone. - -_Che-keang_ sends to Canton the best of silks and paper; also, -fans, pencils, wines, dates, "golden-flowered" hams, and -"_lung-tsingcha_"--an excellent and very costly tea. This province -has a population of twenty-six millions, and makes large demands for -foreign imports; these, however, by way of Canton, go to that province -at no small expense to the consumer. - -_Keang-nan_, which is now divided into the two provinces of Keang-soo -and Gan-hwuy, with a population of _seventy-two_ millions, has the -resources as well as the wants of a kingdom. Notwithstanding its -distance from Canton, large quantities of produce are annually sent -hither, and exchanged for the productions and manufactures of the -western world. Green teas and silks are the principal articles of -traffic, which are brought to Canton; and they usually yield the -merchant a great profit. - -From _Shan-tung_, fruits, vegetables, drugs, wines, and skins, are -brought down the coast to Canton; and coarse fabrics for clothing are -sent back in return. The carrying of foreign exports from Canton to -Shan-tung, whether over land or up the coast in native vessels, makes -them so expensive as to preclude their use among the great majority -of the inhabitants, who are poor and numerous. The population of -_Shan-tung_ is twenty-eight millions. From Chih-le, ginseng, raisins, -dates, skins, deer's flesh, wines, drugs, and tobacco, are sent hither; -and sundry other foreign imports go back in return. The population, -amounting to twenty-seven millions, is in a great degree, dependant on -the productions of other provinces and countries for the necessaries of -life. - -_Shan-se_ sends skins, wines, ardent spirits, and musk. Among its -fourteen millions of inhabitants, there are many capitalists who come -to Canton to increase their property by loaning money. Various kinds of -cloths, European skins, watches, and native books, are sent up to the -province of Shan-se. - -_Shen-se_ also supports a large money trade in Canton, sends hither -brass, iron, precious stones, and drugs; and takes back woollen and -cotton cloths, books and wines. The population is about ten millions. - -_Kean-suh_ sends to Canton gold, quicksilver, musk, tobacco, &c., and -receives in return, for its fifteen millions of inhabitants, a small -amount of European goods. - -_Sze-chuen_ sends gold, brass, iron, tin, musk and a great variety -of other drugs; and receives in exchange, European cloths, lacquered -ware, looking-glasses, &c. Sze-chuen is the largest of the eighteen -provinces, and has a population of twenty-one millions. - -_Yun-nan_ yields, for the shops of Canton, brass, tin, precious stones, -musk, betel-nut, birds, and peacock's feathers; and receives silks, -woollen and cotton cloths, various kinds of provisions, tobacco and -books in return. The population is five millions. - -_Kuang-we_ has a population of seven millions, and furnishes the -provincial city with large quantities of rice, cassia, iron, lead, -fans, and wood of various kinds; and takes in return many native -productions, and most of the articles that come to Canton from beyond -sea. - -From _Kwei-chow_, one of the central provinces, are brought gold, -quicksilver, iron, lead, tobacco, incense, and drugs; a few articles, -chiefly foreign goods, find their way back to that province. Its -population is five millions. - -From the two provinces, _Hoo-nan_ and _Hoo-pih_, come large quantities -of rhubarb; also musk, tobacco, honey, hemp, and a great variety of -singing-birds; the number of inhabitants is five millions. They make -very considerable demands on the merchants of Canton, both for native -productions and foreign imports. - -_Keang se_ sends to this market, coarse cloths, hemp, china-ware, and -drugs; and receives in return woollens and native books. The population -is twenty-three millions. _Ho-nan_ has an equal number of inhabitants, -and sends hither rhubarb, musk, almonds, honey, indigo, &c.; woollens, -and a few other foreign goods are received in return. - -[Sidenote: OPIUM.] - -This account of the domestic commerce of Canton, is taken from native -manuscript. We have sought long, but in vain, for some official -document which would show at once, the different kinds, and the amount -of merchandise, which are annually brought from, and carried to, the -several provinces of the empire. The account which has been given must -be regarded only as an approximation to the truth. Some articles, -doubtless, have been omitted, which ought to have been noticed, and -vice versa; one commodity in particular, opium, known to be carried -into all the provinces, and used to the amount of more than fifteen -millions annually, is not even mentioned. Still, the statement which -we have brought into view, shows that there is, in every part of the -empire, a greater or less demand for foreign productions; a demand -which, so long as the commerce is confined to this port, will be -supplied very disadvantageously, both for the foreigner and the native; -but while it does remain thus restricted, there is reason to suppose -that it will, under all its disadvantages, gradually increase; and even -if the northern ports of the empire should be immediately thrown open, -it will not soon cease to be important. - -Though the merchants and factors from the other provinces enjoy a -considerable share of the commerce of Canton, yet they do not confine -themselves to the domestic trade; they participate largely in that -to Tung-king, Cochin-China, Siam, and the islands of the eastern -Archipelago. The whole number of Chinese vessels, annually visiting -foreign ports south of Canton, is not probably less than one hundred; -of these, one third belong to Canton; six or eight go to Tung-king; -eighteen or twenty to Cochin-China, Camboja, and Siam; four or five -visit the ports of Singapore, Java, Sumatra, and Penang; and as many -more find their way to the Celebes, Borneo, and the Philippine islands. -These vessels make only one voyage in the year, and always move with -the monsoon. Many of the vessels, from Fuh-keen and the northern ports -of China, which go south, touch at Canton, both when outward and -homeward bound. But the whole amount of trade to foreign ports, carried -on by the Chinese merchants of Canton, is not very great; this is not -the case with that which is in the hands of foreigners, which we shall -notice in the following chapter. - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - - EARLY COMMERCE OF CHINA--AMERICAN - TRADE--HONG-MERCHANTS--TRANSLATORS--LINGUISTS--FOREIGN - FACTORIES--STYLE OF LIVING--MANUFACTORIES AND - TRADE--PHYSICIANS--EGG-BOATS--MANUFACTURERS--MECHANICS--POPULATION - OF CANTON. - - -Portugal, Spain, France, Holland, Sweden, Denmark, Russia, England, and -the United States, share in the commerce of Canton. - -The Portuguese ships led the way to China in the year 1576, but, -difficulties occurring, they were restricted to Macao, to which place -they have ever since been limited, excepting at short intervals, when -they have been allowed to visit other ports. - -The Chinese annals say, that in 1550, the Portuguese borrowed -Haon-king-gaon, (Macao,) which is situated in the midst of dashing -waves, where immense fish rise up, and again plunge into the deep! -the clouds hover over it, and the prospect is really beautiful--that -they (the Portuguese) passed over the ocean, myriads of miles, in a -wonderful manner; and small and great ranged themselves under the -renovating influence imparted by the glorious sun of the celestial -empire. - -Spanish vessels enjoy greater privileges than those of any other -nation: they trade at Macao, a privilege denied to all other -foreigners, excepting the Portuguese; at Canton, and at Amoy. - -The Falanke (French) reached Canton, in 1520; they entered the Tiger's -mouth (the Bogue) abruptly, but were driven away, because the loud -report of their guns frightened the inhabitants. Their trade has never -been very extensive, though it has continued to the present time. -During the few past years, they have employed annually, two, three, -or four ships in this trade. In the seasons 1832-33, there were three -French ships in port. - -The Ho-lan-kwo-jin (Dutch) arrived at China, in the year 1601: they -inhabited, in ancient times, a wild territory, and arrived at Macao -in two or three large ships. Their clothes and hair were red, they -had tall bodies, and blue, deeply sunken eyes, their feet were one -cubit and two tenths long, and they frightened the people with their -strange appearance; notwithstanding tribute was brought by them, they -had, in commencing trade, to struggle with many difficulties; and -their commerce, during two centuries, has fluctuated exceedingly. Its -present prospects are improving. A few years since, they had only -three or four ships, annually employed in this trade. During the year -1832, seventeen, from Holland and Java, arrived in China. The value -of _imports_, was four hundred and fifty-seven thousand, one hundred -and twenty-eight dollars. The _exports_ amounted to six hundred and -fifty-six thousand, six hundred and forty-five dollars, exclusive of -the private trade of the commanders. - -_Sweden_ has never, we believe, in one season, sent more than two -or three ships to China. The trade opened in 1732: during the first -fifteen subsequent years, twenty-two ships were despatched to China, of -which four were lost. - -Peter Osbeck, who was here in 1750-51, as chaplain of the Prince -Charles, a Swedish East Indiaman, relates, that there were at that -season, eighteen European ships in port: one Danish, two Swedish, two -French, four Dutch, and nine English. For the last fifteen years, no -Swedish ships have visited China. - -The _Danes_ preceded the Swedes in their visits to China, but we could -not ascertain the date of the year in which their trade began. During -twelve years, commencing in 1732, they sent thirty-two ships to China, -twenty-seven of which only returned. Their flag was called Hwang-ke, -"the imperial flag," which name it has retained to this day. Their -trade has never been extensive, though it has continued to the present -time. - -The _Russian_ trading vessels are excluded from the Chinese ports; -their trade being confined to the northern provinces, by land. - -The _English_ did not reach the coast of China, till about 1635. The -whole number of arrivals, during the year 1832, was eighty-seven; ten -of this number performed two or three voyages from China. Of the whole -number, nine were from London, and sixty-two from ports in India. The -vessels brought to China, broadcloths, long-ells, camlets, British -calicoes, worsted and cotton yarn, cotton piece goods, Bombay, Madras -and Bengal cotton, opium, sandal-wood, black-wood, rattans, betel-nut, -putchuck, pepper, cloves, saltpetre, cochineal, olibanum skins, ivory, -amber, pearls, cornelians, watches and clocks, lead, iron, tin, -quicksilver, shark's fins, fishmaws, stock-fish, &c. In return, they -were laden with teas, silk, sugar, silk piece goods, cassia, camphor, -vermilion, rhubarb, alum, musk and various other articles. The value of -these exports and imports is as follows:-- - -In 1828-29, imports, twenty-one millions, three hundred and thirteen -thousand, five hundred and twenty-six dollars; exports, nineteen -millions, three and sixty thousand, six hundred and twenty-five -dollars: in 1829-30, imports, twenty-two millions, nine hundred and -thirty-one thousand, three hundred and seventy-two dollars; exports, -twenty-one millions, two hundred and fifty-seven thousand, two hundred -and fifty-seven dollars: in 1830-31, imports, twenty-one millions, -nine hundred sixty-one thousand, seven hundred and fifty-four dollars; -exports, twenty millions, four hundred and forty-six thousand, six -hundred and ninety-nine dollars: in 1831-32, imports, twenty millions, -five hundred and thirty-six thousand, two hundred and twenty-seven -dollars; exports, seventeen millions, seven hundred and sixty-seven -thousand, four hundred and eighty-six dollars: in 1832-33, imports, -twenty-two millions, three hundred and four thousand, seven hundred -and fifty-three dollars; exports, eighteen millions, three hundred and -thirty-two thousand, seven hundred and sixty dollars. - -[Sidenote: AMERICAN TRADE.] - -The _American_ trade to China, is of very recent origin; it commenced -after the revolutionary war. The first recorded facts which we are able -to obtain, carry back the trade only to the season of 1784-5, in which -two American ships were sent, laden, to Canton. In their return-cargo, -they carried eight hundred and eighty thousand, one hundred pounds of -tea: in the following season, but one vessel was sent, which exported -six hundred and ninety-five thousand pounds: in 1786-7, there were -five American ships, engaged in the trade: they exported one million, -one hundred and eighty-one thousand, eight hundred and sixty pounds of -this plant. One of these ships, was the "Hope:" other ships, which were -in port during this, and the following season, were the "Washington," -"Asia," and "Canton;" the last two, from Philadelphia. - -The number of American vessels, which arrived in China, during the -seasons of 1832-33, ending in June, 1833, was fifty-nine. Some of these -ships did not, however, take in cargoes at this port. - -These vessels brought quicksilver, lead, iron, South American copper, -spelter, tin plates, Turkey opium, ginseng, rice, broadcloths, -camlets, chintzes, long ells, long cloths, cambrics, domestics, -velvets, bombazettes, handkerchiefs, linen, cotton drillings, yarn and -prints, land and sea otter-skins, fox-skins, seal-skins, pearl-shells, -sandal-wood, cochineal, musical-boxes, clocks, watches, and sundry -other articles. - -In return, they were laden with teas, silks, cassia, camphor, rhubarb, -vermilion, china-ware, &c. These articles were carried to the United -States, Europe, South America, Sandwich islands, and Manila. The -following statement will afford some idea of the progress in that -trade, and show its present amount:-- - -In 1805-6, imports, five millions, three hundred and twenty-six -thousand, three hundred and fifty-eight dollars; exports, five -millions, one hundred and twenty-seven thousand dollars: in 1815-16, -imports, two millions, five hundred and twenty-seven thousand, five -hundred dollars; exports, four millions, two hundred and twenty -thousand dollars: in 1825-26, imports, three millions, eight hundred -and forty-three thousand, seven hundred and seventeen dollars; -exports, four millions, three hundred and sixty-three thousand, seven -hundred and eighty-eight dollars: in 1830-31, imports, four millions, -two-hundred and twenty-three thousand, four hundred and seventy-six -dollars; exports, four millions, three hundred and forty-four thousand, -five hundred and forty-eight dollars: in 1831-32, imports, five -millions, five hundred and thirty-one thousand, eight hundred and -six dollars; exports, five millions, nine hundred and ninety-nine -thousand, seven hundred and thirty-one dollars: in 1832-33, imports, -eight millions, three hundred and sixty-two thousand, nine hundred and -seventy-one dollars; exports, eight millions, three hundred and seventy -two thousand, one hundred and seventy-five dollars. - -[Sidenote: COMMERCE.] - -It appears, from the foregoing statements, that the China trade, -employing, annually, one hundred and forty first-rate vessels, and a -large amount of capital, constitutes a very important branch of modern -commerce: this trade has always been carried on, and still exists, -under circumstances peculiar to itself: it is secured by no commercial -treaties, regulated by no stipulated rules: mandates, and edicts not -a few, there are on "record," but these all emanate from one party; -still, the trade lives, and, by that imperial favour which extends to -"the four seas," flourishes and enjoys no small degree of protection. - -All vessels arriving on the coast of China, are, unless destined for -the harbour of Macao, or the port of Canton, considered by the Chinese -authorities, as intruders, and as such, must instantly depart. Year -after year, however, vessels have found a safe and convenient anchorage -at Lintin and its vicinity, where a large amount of business, including -nearly the whole of the opium-trade, is transacted. - -Those vessels that are to enter the Bogue, must procure a permit, and -a pilot, at the Chinese custom-house, near Macao: the pilots, having -received license to act, must proceed on board immediately, and conduct -the vessel to the anchorage, at Whampoa. - -As soon as the ship is officially reported at Canton, arrangements are -made for discharging and receiving cargo, the whole business of which -is sometimes accomplished in three weeks, but usually, it extends to -two or three months. Before this business can proceed, the consignee, -or the owner of the ship, must obtain for her a _security merchant_, a -_linguist_, and a comprador; and a declaration must be given, except by -those of the East India Company, that she has no opium on board. The -security merchant, or individual who gives security to government for -the payment of her duties, and for the conduct of the crew, must be a -member of the _co-hong_; this company is composed at present, of twelve -individuals, usually called _hong-merchants_: some of these men rank -among the most wealthy and respectable inhabitants of Canton: they pay -largely for the privilege of entering the co-hong: when they have once -joined that body, they are seldom allowed to retire from the station, -and, at all times, are liable to heavy exactions, from the provincial -government. Formerly, the whole, or nearly the whole foreign trade, -was in their hands: within a few years, it has extended to others who -are not included in the co-hong; and who are commonly called _outside -merchants_. - -The linguists, so called, hold the rank of interpreters: they procure -permits for delivering and taking in cargo; transact all business at -the custom-house, keep account of the duties, &c. - -The comprador provides stores, and all the necessary provisions for the -ship, while she remains in port. - -The _port-charges_ consist of measurement-duty, cumshaw, pilotage, -linguist and comprador's fees. The measurement-duty varies: on a vessel -of three hundred tons, it is about six hundred and fifty dollars, -and on a vessel of about thirteen hundred tons, it is about three -thousand dollars: the tonnage, however, affords no fixed criterion for -the amount of measurement-duty. But, for all ships, the _cumshaw_, -_pilotage_, _linguist_ and comprador's fees, are the same, amounting to -two thousand, five hundred and seventy-three dollars. - -Those vessels that enter the port, _laden only with rice_, are not -required to pay the measurement-duty and cumshaw, but they are liable -to other irregular fees, amounting to nearly one thousand dollars. - -The management and general supervision of the port-charges, are -intrusted to an imperial commissioner, who is sent hither from the -court of Peking. In Chinese, he is called hae-kwan-keen-tuh, but, by -foreigners, he is usually styled the hoppo: his regular salary is about -three thousand taels per annum, but his annual income is supposed to be -no less than one hundred thousand dollars. - -The arrangements between the native and foreign merchants of Canton for -the transaction of business are, on the whole, convenient and pretty -well calculated to promote despatch, and to secure confidence in the -respective parties. - -The Chinese merchants have a well-earned reputation as shrewd dealers: -they have little confidence in each other; every contract of importance -must be "fixed," and made sure by the payment of a stipulated sum: but -they place the most unlimited confidence in the integrity of their -foreign customers. - -Among the _outside_ merchants the trade is very limited, and their -number being unlimited, there is often much competition between them. -The whole of the East India company's business, a large portion of the -English private trade, and that of other foreigners, are confined to -the hong-merchants and those who transact business in connexion with -them. - -The establishments of the principal hong-merchants are extensive; they -have numerous and convenient ware-houses in which they store goods, and -from whence export-cargoes are conveyed, in lighters, to the shipping -at Whampoa. - -The names of the hong-merchants are Howqua, Mowqua, Puankhequa, Goqua, -Fatqua, Kingqua, Sunshing, Mingqua, Saoqua, and Punhoqua. The Rev. -Robert Morrison, D. D., is Chinese translator to the British East India -company, and Mr. G. R. Morrison, his son, to those termed the _outside -British merchants_. The four linguists are named, Atom, Achow, Atung, -and Akang. - -[Sidenote: FOREIGN FACTORIES.] - -The _foreign factories_, the situation of which has already been -noticed, are neat and commodious buildings: the plot of ground on which -they stand is circumscribed by narrow limits, extending about sixty -rods from east to west, and forty rods from north to south: it is -owned, in common with most of the factories, by the hong-merchants. - -The factories are called shih-san-hang, "the thirteen factories;" -with the exception of two or three narrow streets, they form a solid -block; each factory extends in length, through the whole breadth of the -block, and has its own proper name which, if not always appropriate, -is intended to be indicative of good fortune: the first, commencing -on the east, is e-ho-hang, the factory of "justice and peace;" it -communicates with the city ditch: the second is the Dutch; it is -called paon-ho-hong, "the factory that ensures tranquillity:" Hog-lane -separates this from the fourth, which is called fung-tae-hang, "the -great and affluent or chow-chow factory;" it derives the latter name -from its mixture of inhabitants, viz.:--Parsees, Moormen, &c.: the -fifth, being the old English factory, is named bung-shan-hong: the -sixth, the Swedish factory, is called suy-hang: the seventh, commonly -called the imperial factory, ma-ying-hang: the eighth, paon-shun-hang, -or "the precious and prosperous factory:" the ninth, the American -factory, is termed kwang-yuen-hang, "the factory of wide fountains." -A broad street, called China-street, separates kwang-yuen-hang from -the tenth factory, which is occupied by one of the hong merchants: the -eleventh is the French factory: the twelfth, the Spanish factory: the -thirteenth, and last, is the Danish factory. The twelfth and thirteenth -are separated by a street occupied by Chinese merchants, generally -called New China-street. - -Each factory is divided into three, four, or more houses, of which -each factor occupies one or more, according to circumstances. Brick or -granite is the material used in the erection of these buildings, which -are two stories high, and present a moderately substantial front. They -form, with the foreign flags which wave above them, a pleasing contrast -to the national banner and architecture of the celestial empire. - -Besides the British East India company's establishment, there are -nine British merchants and agents, seven American, one French, and -one Dutch. Between Canton, Macao, and on board the stationary ships -at Linting, there are distributed one hundred and forty residents, -exclusive of twenty-five belonging to the East India company's -establishment, viz.: Sixty-three British, thirty-one Asiatic British -subjects, twenty Americans, eleven Portuguese, three Dutch, four -Danish, three Swedish, three Spanish, one French, and one Genoese. - -Messrs. Markwick and Lane keep a European bazar, and the British hotel -is kept by C. Markwick in the imperial hong; the European ware-house -and hotel is kept by Robert Edwards, in the American hong. - -Two newspapers are printed in the English language, the "Canton -Register," and the "Chinese Courier;" the first, half-monthly, and the -second, weekly, accompanied by price-currents. There is also, printed -in English, a very useful and praiseworthy work, called the "Chinese -Repository," to which I am indebted for a considerable portion of the -information relative to Canton, its commerce, &c. - -The difficulty, which formerly existed in visiting and communicating -with Macao, Linting, and Cap-shuy-moon, is now happily removed by the -establishment of two excellent cutters, under British colours, which -have very convenient accommodations. Chinese boats also may be had -in abundance, either for the outer ship channel to or from Linting, -Cap-shuy-moon, or Macao, or the _inner_ passage to and from Macao, and -which foreign boats are not allowed to use. - -The style of living in China (we refer to foreign society) is similar -to that of India, except that here man is deprived of that "help" -appointed to him by a divine decree, which no human authority can -justly abrogate, and enjoyed by him in every land save this. - -A gentleman, fitting up an establishment in Canton, must first obtain -a _comprador_; this is an individual permitted, by special license, -to act as head-servant; to him belong the general superintendance -of domestic household affairs, the procuring of other servants, -purchasing provisions, &c., according to the wishes of his employer. -Visiters to Canton usually speak in high terms of the domestic -arrangements of the residents. - -This place presents few objects of much interest to the mere man of -pleasure. Considering the latitude, the climate is agreeable and -healthy; provisions of good quality and great variety are abundant; but -the want of a purer air, and wider range, than are enjoyed in the midst -of the densely populated metropolis, to which the residents are here -confined, often makes them impatient to leave the provincial city. - -[Sidenote: MANUFACTORIES.] - -The _manufactories_ and trades of Canton are numerous: there is no -machinery, properly so called, consequently there are no extensive -manufacturing establishments similar to those which, in modern times, -and under the power of machinery, have grown up in Europe. The Chinese -know nothing of the economy of time. Much of the manufacturing business -required to supply the commercial houses of Canton, is performed at -Fuh-shan, a large town situated a few miles westward of the city; -still, the number of hands employed, and the amount of labour performed -here, are by no means inconsiderable. - -There are annually about seventeen thousand persons, men, women, and -children, engaged in weaving silk; their looms are simple, and their -work is generally executed with neatness. The number of persons engaged -in manufacturing cloth of all kinds, is about fifty thousand; when the -demand is pressing for work, the number of labourers is considerably -increased; the workmen occupy about two thousand, five hundred shops, -averaging, usually, twenty in each. - -We have heard it said, that some of the Chinese females, who devote -their time to embroidering the choicest of the fabrics, secure a profit -of twenty and sometimes even twenty-five dollars per month. Shoemakers -are numerous and support an extensive trade, the number of workmen -being about four thousand, two hundred. The number of those who work -in brass, wood, iron, stone, and various other materials, is likewise -large. Those who engage in each of these occupations form, to a certain -degree, a separate community, having their distinct laws and rules for -the regulation of business. - -The book-trade of Canton is important, but we have not been able to -obtain particulars in relation to its extent. The _barbers_ form a -separate department, and no one is allowed to perform the duties of -tonsor until he has obtained a license. - -According to their records, the number of this fraternity in Canton, at -the present time, is seven thousand, three hundred! - -There is another body of men, which we know not how to designate or -describe; the _medical community_; which must not be passed over -without notice. That these men command high respect and esteem whenever -they show themselves skilled in their profession, there can be no -doubt; it is generally admitted, also, that individuals do now and -then, by long experience and observation, become able practitioners; -but, as a community, they are anything rather than masters of the -"healing art." About two thousand of these "physicians" dwell in Canton. - -No inconsiderable part of the multitude which composes the population -of Canton lives in boats. There are officers appointed by government -to regulate and control this portion of the city's inhabitants. Every -boat, of all the various sizes and descriptions that are seen here, is -registered; and it appears that the whole number on the river, adjacent -to the city, is eighty-four thousand. A great majority of these are -tankea (egg-house) boats, called by some, sampans; these are generally -not more than twelve or fifteen feet long, about six broad, and so low -that a person can scarcely stand up in them: their covering, made of -bamboo, is very light, and can be easily adjusted to the state of the -weather. Whole families live in these boats, and in coops lashed on the -outside of them they often rear large broods of ducks and chickens, -designed to supply the city-markets. Passage-boats which daily move to -and from the city-hamlets, ferry-boats which are constantly crossing -and recrossing the river, huge canal-boats, laden with produce from -the country, cruisers, pleasure-boats, &c. complete the list of these -floating habitations, and present to the stranger a very interesting -scene. - -[Sidenote: POPULATION.] - -There has been considerable diversity of opinion in relation to the -population of Canton. The division of the city which brings a part of -it into Nan-hae, and a part into Pwang-yu, precludes the possibility of -ascertaining the exact amount of population. The facts which we have -brought into view in the preceding pages, perhaps will afford the best -data for making an accurate estimate of the number of inhabitants -in the city. There are, we have already seen, fifty thousand persons -engaged in the manufacture of cloth, seven thousand, three hundred -barbers, and four thousand, two hundred shoemakers; but these three -occupations employing sixty-one thousand, five hundred individuals, do -not, probably, include more than one fourth of the craftsmen in the -city; allowing this to be the fact, the whole number of mechanics will -amount to two hundred and forty-six thousand; these, we suppose, are a -fourth part of the whole population, exclusive of those who live on the -rivers. In each of the eighty-four thousand boats, there are not less, -on an average, than three individuals; making a total of two hundred -and forty-two thousand; if to them we add two hundred and forty-six -thousand, (which is the number of mechanics,) the amount will be one -million, two hundred and thirty-six thousand, as the probable number of -inhabitants in Canton. - -This number may possibly be incorrect; no one, however, who has had an -opportunity of passing through the streets of the city, and viewing the -multitudes that throng them, will think the estimate below one million. - -It only remains to remark, briefly, in conclusion, the influence which -Canton is exerting on the character and destinies of this empire. -Intelligent natives admit that more luxury, dissipation, and crime, -exist here, than in any other portion of the empire; they maintain, -at the same time, that more enterprise, enlarged views, and general -information, prevail among the higher class of the inhabitants of -Canton, than are found in most of the other large cities; the bad -qualities are the result of a thrifty commerce acting on a large -population, in the absence of high moral principles; the good, which -exist in a very limited degree, result from an intercourse with -"distant barbarians." - -The contempt and hatred which the Chinese have often exhibited towards -foreigners, and the indifference and disdain with which the nation -has looked down upon every thing not its own, ought to be thoroughly -reprobated; on the other hand, the feelings which foreigners have -cherished, and the disposition and conduct which they have too -frequently manifested towards this people, are such as never should -have existed. Notwithstanding all these disadvantages, we think the -intercourse between the Chinese and the people of the western world, -beneficial to the former; and hitherto this intercourse has been -purely commercial; science, literature, and all friendly and social -offices, have been disregarded. We trust fervently, that such a -period has departed, that men are beginning to feel they have moral -obligations to discharge, and that they are bound by the most sacred -ties to interest themselves in the intellectual, moral, and religious -improvement of their various brethren in the distant nations of the -earth. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -WEIGHTS AND MEASURES--MONEY WEIGHTS--COMMERCIAL -WEIGHTS--OPIUM--OPIUM-SMOKERS--MANTCHOU DYNASTY. - - -Among the _exports_ and _imports to_ and _from China_, are certain -articles, which are not generally known to merchants not engaged in -commerce to the eastward of the cape of Good Hope, among which are:-- - -_Agar-agar_: this article is a species of seaweed, imported from New -Holland, New Guinea, &c. It makes a valuable paste, and is extensively -used in the manufacture of silks and paper. It is also used as a -sweetmeat. There are several species of _fucus_ imported, which are -eaten both in a crude state, and cooked, by the lower classes. - -_Amomum_: these seeds have a strong pungent taste, and a penetrating -aromatic smell; they are used to season sweet dishes. - -_Anise-seed stars_ are so called from the manner in which they grow; -they are used also, to season sweet dishes, have an aromatic taste, and -from them is extracted a volatile oil. - -_Capoor cretchery_ is the root of a plant: it has a pungent and -bitterish taste, and a slightly aromatic smell. It is exported to -Bombay, and is used for medical purposes, and to preserve clothes. - -_Coral_ is valuable according to the colour, density, and size of the -fragments: when made into buttons, it is used among the Chinese as an -insignia of office. - -_Cutch_ or _Terra Japonica_ is a gummy resin, and is imported from -Bombay and Bengal. - -_Gambier_ is similar to cutch, although the produce of two different -plants: it is chewed with areca-nut, and is used also in China, for -tanning; but it renders the leather porous and rotten. - -_Galengal_ is used principally in cookery; it has a hot, acrid, peppery -taste, and an aromatic smell. - -The Chinese weigh all articles which are bought and sold, that are -weighable; as _money_, _wood_, _vegetables_, _liquids_, &c. This -renders their dealings more simple than those of other nations, -who buy and sell commodities, with more reference to the articles -themselves. Their divisions of weights and measures are into _money_ -and _commercial_ weights, and _long_, and _land_ measures, &c. - -The circulating medium between foreigners and Chinese, is broken -Spanish dollars, the value of which is usually computed by their -weight. Dollars bearing the stamp of Ferdinand, have usually borne a -premium of one, to one and a half per cent., while those of Carolus -have risen as high as seven or eight per cent., but are subject to a -considerable variation, according to the season, and _different times_ -of the season. Those coins bearing the stamp of the letter G, are not -received by the Chinese, except at a discount. Mexican and United -States' dollars, do not pass among the Chinese, but are taken _at -par_, by foreigners: every individual coin has the mark of the person, -through whose hands it passes, stamped upon it. - -As the number of these marks soon becomes very numerous, the coin -is quickly broken in pieces; and, this process of stamping being -continually repeated, the fragments gradually become very small, and -are paid away entirely by weight. The highest weight used in reckoning -money, is _tael_, (leang,) which is divided into _mace_, (tseen,) -_candareens_, (fun,) and _cash_, (le.) The relative value of these -terms, both among the Chinese, and in foreign money, can be seen by the -following table. It should be observed here, that these terms, _taels_, -_mace_, _candareens_, _cash_, _peculs_, and _catties_, _covids_, -_punts_, &c., are not Chinese words, and are never used by the Chinese -among themselves; and, the reason of their employment by foreigners, -instead of the legitimate terms, is difficult to conjecture. - - Ounce Grains - Tael. Mace. Candareens. Cash. troy. troy. Sterling. Dollars. - - 1 10 100 1000 1,208 579.84 6s. 8d. 1,389 _a_ 1,398 - 1 10 100 57.984 8d. 138 _a_ 0,139 - 1 5.7984 8d. - -The value here given for the tael, in sterling money and dollars, is -not the exact value: and it is difficult to ascertain, owing to the -ignorance of the Chinese, of such money among other nations. The value -given to the tael in the sterling money, is that which is found on -the books of the East India company: that given to the dollar, is the -extremes of its value. - -[Sidenote: COIN.] - -The only coin of the Chinese, is called _cash_, (or _le_,) which is -made of six parts of copper, and four of lead. The coins are thin and -circular, and nearly an inch in diameter, having a square hole in the -centre, for the convenience of tying them together, with a raised edge, -both around the outside, and the hole. Those now in use, have the -name of the emperor stamped upon them, in whose reign they were cast. -Notwithstanding their little value, they are much adulterated with -spelter; yet, on account of their convenience in paying small sums, and -for common use, they generally bear a premium, and but eight hundred -and fifty can commonly be obtained for a tael. The use of silver coin, -however, appears to be increasing among the Chinese, as by recent -accounts, we learn that silver dollars have been made in Fuh-keen and -other places, contrary to the laws of the empire. - -Bullion is rated by its fineness, which is expressed by dividing the -weight into a hundred parts, called touches. If gold is said to be -ninety-four or ninety-eight touches, it is known to have one or two -parts of alloy; the remainder is pure silver metal; is estimated in the -same manner; and without alloy or nearly so, is called sycee, which -bears a premium according to its purity; the most pure sycees are equal -in fineness to the _plata-pina_ of Peru, which is now principally -imported by vessels of the United States, engaged in commerce to -the Spanish ports on the Pacific. It is cast into ingots, (by the -Chinese, called shoes, from their shape,) stamped with the mark of the -office that issued them, and the date of their emission. It is used -to pay government taxes and duties, and the salaries of officers. The -ingots weigh from one half, to one hundred taels, and bear a value -accordingly. _Sycee_ silver is the only approach among the Chinese to -a silver currency; gold ingots are made, weighing ten taels each, and -are worth between twenty two and twenty-three dollars; but neither -gold ingots, nor doubloons, nor any other gold coin, are used as money -among the Chinese. Great caution should be used in purchasing ingots or -bars of silver, as they are subject to many adulterations, and are not -unfrequently cast hollow, and filled with lead, to complete the weight. -In fact, every species of fraud is practised by the dealers in bullion. - -The only weights in use among the Chinese, besides those of money, are -the _pecul_, (tan,) _catty_, (kin,) and _tael_, (leang.) The proportion -these bear to each other, and to English weights, is exhibited in the -following table:-- - - Pecul. Catties. Taels. Lbs. avoir. Cat. Lbs. troy. - 1 100 1600 1331/2 1.0.21-1/3 162.0.8.1 - 1 16 1-1/3 - -Usage has established a difference between the tael of commercial -weights, which, at the rate of one hundred and thirty-three and a third -pounds to the pecul, weighs five hundred and eighty-three and a half -troy grains, and the tael of money weight, of which the old standard -is 579.84 grains troy. By the above table, it appears, that one ton -is equal to sixteen peculs, and eighty catties; one hundred weight -to eighty-four catties; one pound, avoirdupois to three fourths of -a catty, or twelve taels. The Portuguese at Macao, have a pecul for -weighing cotton, and valuable articles; a second for coarse goods; and -again, a different one for rice. But the Chinese, among themselves, -know no difference, either in the weight of a pecul for different -articles, or in the tael, whether used for money or goods. - -The principal measures in use among the Chinese, are three; namely, -long measure, land measure, and dry measure. - -The principal measure of length, is the _covid_, (chih,) which is -divided into ten _punts_, (tsun.) The _covid_ varies considerably, -according as it is used for measuring cloths, distances, or vessels. -That determined upon by the mathematical tribunal, is 13.125 English -inches; that used by tradesmen, at Canton, is about 14.625 inches; the -one by which distances are usually rated, is nearly 12.1 inches, and -that employed by engineers, for public works, 12.7 inches. The _le_ -or mile, is also an uncertain measure, varying more than the covid -or foot. Its common measure is three hundred, sixteen, and a quarter -fathoms, or one thousand, eight hundred, ninety-seven and a half -English feet; it is the usual term, in which length is estimated. The -Chinese reckon one hundred, ninety-two and a half _le_, for a degree -of latitude and longitude; but the Jesuits divided the degree into two -hundred and fifty _le_, each _le_ being one thousand eight hundred -and twenty-six English feet, or the tenth part of a French league, -which is the established measure at present. A _le_, according to this -measurement, is a little more than one third of an English mile. - -_Land measure_ has also varied considerably, but is at present -established by authority. By this rule, one thousand, two hundred -covids make an acre or _more_, which contains about six thousand, six -hundred square feet. - -Rice, or paddy, is the only article measured in vessels the dimensions -of which have been fixed by law or usage; but as even rice and paddy -are usually weighed when sold in large quantities, the vessels for -measuring these commodities are but little used. - -To perform these calculations, the Chinese have an arithmetical board, -or abacus, called _swan-pan_, or "_counting-board_," on which, by -constant practice, they will perform calculations in numbers with -surprising facility. It consists of an oblong frame of wood, having a -bar running lengthwise about two thirds of its width from one side. -Through this bar, at right angles, are inserted a number of parallel -wires, having moveable balls on them, five on one side, and two on the -other. The principle on which computations are made, is this; that -any ball in the larger compartment, being placed against the bar and -called unity, decreases or increases by tenths, hundredths, &c.; and -the corresponding balls in the smaller divisions, by fifths, fiftieths, -&c.: if one in the smaller compartment is placed against the middle -bar, the opposite unit or integer, which may be any one of the digits, -is multiplied by five. - -[Sidenote: OPIUM.] - -Having heretofore cursorily alluded to the vast sum annually expended -in the importation of opium, I now proceed to give a more particular -statement concerning the trade, the number of smokers, &c., &c. -The opium-trade, which scarcely attracted the notice of merchants -previously to the year 1816, has now swollen into great importance, by -the rapid and extensive sale of one of the most destructive narcotics -which the world ever knew, and which is used in China as a pernicious -indulgence, by smoking. The government has passed the most rigorous -laws to prevent its importation and use, but as the officers of the -revenue boats, from Linting and Cap-shuy-moon to Canton, are bribed, -and receive a stipulated fee on every chest of opium, and every other -article illegally imported, smuggling is no longer fraught with any -material risk, and has at length assumed the appearance of a regular -branch of commerce. Once in two or three years, the Chinese admiral is -ordered to proceed to the smuggling depots at the island of Linting, -(alias Ling-ting) the "Solitary Vail," or the "Destitute Orphan," or -to Cap-sin-moon, alias, Cap-shuy-moon, or the "Swift water passage," -and exterminate the "foreign barbarians." He goes down in formidable -array, with an immense number of flags flying; and the sound proceeding -from an endless number of great gongs and other noisy instruments, -is heard, with a favourable wind, long before his fleet "heaves in -sight;" the smugglers are previously informed of his coming, (for -public notice is given many weeks, perhaps months, before he arrives;) -the imperial fleet is then hove to, at a safe distance, far beyond the -reach of cannon-shot, from three to five miles; the gongs are then -beaten with the utmost fury, the trumpets blown, and the thousands -of warriors shout and bellow with loud vociferations, to frighten -away the monsters, and a cannon-shot or two is fired, perhaps; the -"_barbarians_" then get under way very leisurely with a topsail or two -bent, and proceed towards the Ladrone, or Rogues islands, called by the -Chinese "Low man-shan," or the "old ten thousand hills;" this satisfies -the commander, who returns back, and sounds far and wide, his valorous -deeds in _alms_, (arms,) (for he is one of the beggars who asks a -douceur.) Forthwith a courier is despatched to the imperial court, -announcing, that the Fankwai, or "Foreign white devils" are blown into -"ten thousand atoms," and that their carcasses have been given to the -fish, and to birds of prey. As soon as the Chinese fleet "about ship" -to return, which is done immediately if possible, down drop the anchors -of the "Fankwai," the sails are unbent, the smuggling boats are laden -again as usual; and thus ends this ridiculous farce. - -To show the destructive tendency of this trade in every point of view, -to the Chinese empire, a statement is herewith presented, setting forth -the alarming increase of the imports from 1817, to 1833: - -In the season ending in 1817, three thousand, two hundred and ten -chests of Patna, Benares, and Malva opium, containing one hundred -and five catties, or one hundred and forty pounds each chest, were -imported, which sold for the sum of three millions, six hundred and -fifty-seven thousand dollars: in the season ending in 1833, fifteen -thousand six hundred and sixty-two chests from India were imported, -which sold for thirteen millions, seven hundred and fifty-seven -thousand, two hundred and ninety dollars; the whole value of the known -importations during the time named, being seventeen years only, was -the enormous sum of one hundred and fifty millions, one hundred and -thirty four thousand, six hundred and sixty-eight dollars: the number -of smokers, allowing three candareens of 17.40 grains troy, per day -to each, had increased from about one hundred thousand, to about one -million, four hundred and seventy-five thousand, seven hundred and -twenty-six. If to the quantity already stated, there is added the -importation of Turkey opium, of which we have no regular account, as -well as the quantity smuggled by Chinese junks from Singapore, &c., -all of which may be fairly estimated at one third more; the number of -chests imported in the year 1833, would be about twenty-one thousand, -which probably sold for the sum of twenty millions of dollars: the -number of smokers may be estimated at nearly two millions. The crude -opium undergoes a very expensive process by boiling, or seething and -straining, not less than twice, before it is fit for use; it is then -made into small pills, or put into the pipe, in a semi-fluid state, -and taken off, at _two_ or _three whiffs_, the smoke being vented very -slowly through the nostrils, the recipient lying at the same time in a -recumbent posture. Although the Chinese are well aware of its baneful -effects, and that it is yearly draining the country of the value of -many millions of dollars, yet they say, "it is a Josh Pigeon," (meaning -that God hath so decreed it,) and they cannot prevent it. A chest of -opium, which cost eight hundred dollars, is said to quadruple in price, -when prepared for use. - -Opium is vended as openly as teas, by the foreign merchants; the -quantity disposed of, and on hand, and the average price, are printed -and published monthly, and are in the possession of every dealer; -and the chits, or orders given on the commanders of the ships, are -generally sold like scrip, to a great number of persons on speculation, -before the delivery is finally completed. - -[Sidenote: OPIUM-SMOKERS.] - -The tremendous and horrible effects upon the personal appearance of -its votaries, may be seen daily, about the suburbs of Canton, and of -all the pitiable objects the eye ever saw, a confirmed opium-smoker is -apparently the most degraded and worthless. When he has once passed the -Rubicon, reformation seems to be impossible, the sting of death which -is sin, has seized upon him, his feet are already within the precincts -of the grave, and he has sunk like Lucifer, "never to rise again." -When the effect has subsided, an emaciated, nerveless wretch is seen, -with a cadaverous skin, eyeballs wildly protruding from their sockets, -the step faltering, the voice weak and feeble, and the countenance -idiotic; but when an opium-smoker lies under the baneful influence of -the narcotic, the images which flit before his diseased imagination, -are exquisite, brilliant, heavenly: it is the Nepenthe, prepared by the -hands of the fair Helen, which so exhilarated the spirits of all who -had the happiness to partake of it, that all care was banished for the -time being, from their benighted recollections. - -[Sidenote: MANTCHOU DYNASTY.] - -The Mantchou historians have endeavoured to conceal their very modern -rise as a kingdom, by veiling their origin in fables, and deducing -their descent from a divinity; through these fables, however, it is not -difficult to ascertain with a considerable degree of accuracy, their -real descent. Their nation is evidently formed by the union of several -Toungouse tribes, occupying the country, to the north of Corea, and on -the banks of the river Amour. These tribes had by their former unions -rendered themselves formidable to their neighbours; and in the time of -the Sung dynasty, from A.D. 960 to 1278, had, under the Chinese name -of the Kin, or golden dynasty, answering to the Mantchou name Aisin, -subdued several northern districts of China. Their farther progress -was interrupted by the Mongols, under Agodai Khan, grandson of Genghis -Khan, who, in the thirteenth century, destroyed both the Sung dynasty, -and its enemies, and founded the Yuen dynasty. The kingdom of Kin, or -Aisin, being thus destroyed, its tribes returned to their original -country, where they continued more or less independent of each other, -and of their Mongol conquerors. Among the chiefs of their tribes, -was one Aisin Keolo, or Gioro, whom the Mantchous make the son of a -divine virgin, who became pregnant of him by eating a fruit, brought -to her in the bill of a magpie. This Aisin Gioro, at first, ruled over -three tribes; but subsequently, others submitted to him, and he became -king of a nation, to which he gave the name of Mantchou, or Manchow, -which signifies "the full or well-peopled country." At this point, -the thread of Mantchou history is broken, and even names disappear -for three or four generations; nor is the history resumed, till the -close of the sixteenth century, when the chief, who then governed the -Mantchous, incensed at the murder of his father, and grandfather, by -a tribe which had revolted from them, and become confederate with -the Chinese dynasty of Ming, began to wage war against the latter. -After thirty-three years, he had gained such power, and ruled over so -many tribes, as well Mantchou as Mongol, that in the year 1616, he -took the title of emperor, and adopted "Teenming, Heaven's decree," -as his Kwo-haou or title. Previous to this event, in the year 1599, -he appointed persons to form an alphabet for the use of his people, -for, up to that period, the Mantchous possessed no written language. -The alphabet which they adopted, was derived from, and improved upon -the Ouigour and Mongol alphabets, the Mongol being a modification of -the Ouigour, a derivative of the Syriac. During the rest of his reign, -which continued eleven years longer, Teenming was at constant war with -the Chinese, and dying, left the throne to his eighth son, who first -adopted the title of Teentsung, which he retained for nine years, and -then that of Tsungtih, which continued till his death in 1643; though -not of so warlike a disposition as his father, he continued the war -during the whole of his reign; owing to the dissensions which prevailed -among the Chinese princes of the Ming dynasty, and the numerous -revolts, which took place throughout the empire, he was enabled with -little trouble, to take possession of Peking, the capital, and to found -a new dynasty in China. - -This monarch died while yet on the field of victory, leaving the throne -to his ninth son, a child of six years old, to whom was given, the -title of Kwohaou of Shunche. The young monarch was, immediately after -his father's death, carried into the city of Peking, and proclaimed -emperor, amid the acclamations of the people. His reign, and the -commencement of the Mantchou or Ya-tsing dynasty, dated from the year -1644. - -When about fourteen years of age, one of the regents dying, and some -dispute arising, as to who should take his place, Shunche laid aside -his minority, and assumed all the functions of imperial power. He made -few alterations in the old system of government, being fully occupied -in strengthening the dominion, which had been obtained for him; for -many Chinese princes still possessed parts of the empire, and assumed -the imperial title. - -The last of these named Yungleih, was not slain, till the closing year -of Shunche's reign, nor did his death put an end to all fears, for -Chingchingkung, known to Europeans, under the name of Koxinga, still -hovered about the coast, with a large fleet. - -At Shunche's death, in the year 1661, his third son succeeded to the -throne, at the age of eight years, a regency of four chief ministers -being appointed to govern during his minority. The new monarch's -Kwo-haou was Kanghe. - -Soon after Kanghe's accession, the regency compelled all the -inhabitants of the maritime districts throughout China to retire thirty -Chinese miles from the east; by which means the power of Koxinga was -much weakened; but at the same time a great number of families were -reduced to want. In the 12th year of his reign, 1673, there was a -general revolt of the Chinese princes, who were yet living, but from -their dissensions and petty jealousies among themselves, they were -unable to effect any thing. It was not, however, till 1681, that they -were finally subdued. In the following year, 1682, the western part of -Formosa was wrested from the grandson of Koxinga, and has since that -time remained in the hands of the Chinese. - -The conquest of China being firmly established, Kanghe was now able -to turn his attention to his own country, which he visited, attended -by his whole court and an army of sixty thousand men. He also sent -ambassadors to the frontiers, to settle with the Russians the limits of -the two empires--nor did he confine himself to the possessions already -obtained, but under pretence of assisting the Mongols, many of whom had -become tributary to the Mantchou monarchs, previously to the conquest -of China, he extended his possessions northeastward, into the country -of the Soungarians, whom, as well as some of the tribes of Turkestan -and of Thibet, he entirely subdued. - -After a long and glorious reign of sixty-one years, Kanghe died in -1722, in the sixty-ninth year of his age, leaving the succession to -his fourth son; but his fourteenth son taking advantage of his elder -brother's absence from the capital, seized on the billet of succession, -and having changed the number four to fourteen, assumed the throne and -the Kwo-haou of Yung-ching. - -Yung-ching's reign is chiefly remarkable for his persecution of the -Roman Catholic missionaries, most of whom were sent out of the country. -He showed neither the literary nor the military talents displayed by -his father, Kanghe, and by his son and successor Keentung; but he was -attentive to the business of the government, and to the people. In the -fourth year of his reign, the treaty of peace, now existing between -the Russian and Chinese empires, was ratified. By this instrument, the -Russians, among other privileges, are permitted to have an academy -and church, with an archimandrite, three inferior priests, and six -scholars, at Pekin. The time fixed for their stay there is ten years. -Yung-ching reigned thirteen years, and died in the year 1735, leaving -the succession to his fourth son who took the Kwohaou or title of -Keentung. - -Keentung's reign produced many literary works, or rather compilations; -it is remarkable for some brilliant conquests in Eastern Tartary or -Turkestan and Thibet. The Soungarians having revolted, he entirely -annihilated them as a nation, and peopled their country with the -inhabitants of more peaceful districts and with Chinese. - -On the south of Soungaria he extended his boundary beyond Cashgar, -and rendered several of the neighbouring tribes tributary. In the -fifty-eighth year of his reign, 1793-94, the first British embassy to -China under Lord Macartney, reached Peking. The war in Thibet being -brought to a happy conclusion about the same period, is supposed to -have had a bad effect on the interests of that embassy. Two years -afterward, Keentung, after a reign of sixty years, placed one of -his sons on the throne, with the Kwohaou of Keaking, and shortly -after died. Keaking ascended the throne in the thirty-sixth year of -his age. During his reign numerous insurrections occurred among the -Chinese, and much discontent existed throughout the empire. In the -year 1805-06, the tenth of Keaking's reign, the Russian embassy under -Count Golovkin, failed in obtaining an interview with the emperor, in -consequence of refusing to submit to the Kotow, or ceremony of thrice -kneeling and nine times bowing the head to the ground. In the year -1816, the twenty-first year of his reign, the British embassy, under -Lord Amherst, was sent back from Peking, in a similar manner. During -the latter years of his life, Keaking was extremely indolent and -inattentive to government, being wholly devoted to the gratification of -his vicious desires. He died in August, 1820, in the sixty-first year -of his age, and the twenty-fifth of his reign. - -Taoukwang is the Kwohaou of the reigning emperor, who succeeded to -his father Keaking in the thirty-ninth year of his age. The chief -occurrences which have taken place during his reign, are the revolts -in Turkestan or little Bukharia. In figure, Taoukwang is said to be -tall, thin, and of a dark complexion. He is of a generous disposition, -diligent, attentive to government and economical in his expenditures. -He has also avoided through life, the vices to which his younger -brothers are addicted. - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - - DEATH--CEREMONIES OF IMPERIAL MOURNING--POPULATION OF THE CHINESE - EMPIRE--KNOCK-HEAD CEREMONY--BEGGARS--CAT AND DOG MARKET--DR. - B. AND THE CHINA-MAN--BARBERS--DRESS OF THE CHINESE--THE DRAGON - GOD--SLAVERY. - - -The Chinese having a great horror of the word "_death_," they -substitute in its place various periphrases, such as "absent," -"rambling among the genii," "he being sick, occasioned a vacancy," -i. e., dead. The empress having died during the month of June, 1833, -an imperial mandate was published, stating that "her _departure took -place_ at four o'clock on the sixteenth of the month." His majesty says -he was married to Tung-kea twenty-six years previously; that she was -the _principal person_ in the _middle harem_, that she was ever full -of tenderness, filial piety, and was most obedient--but being attacked -by an inveterate dysentery, she had taken the "long departure," and -that it caused him much pain at the loss of his "domestic helper"--his -"interior assistant." His majesty set forth her great virtues, ever -since she had been consort to _heaven_, (i. e. the emperor,) during the -thirteen years that she had held the relative situation of _earth_ to -imperial heaven. An edict was published at her death, ordering, that no -officer should have his head shaved during one hundred days, nor have -any marriage in his family during twenty-seven days, nor play on any -musical instrument during one year; and that the soldiers and people -should not shave their heads for one month, nor engage in marriages -during seven days, nor play on any musical instrument during one -hundred days. - -Other marks of mourning, are the use of blue ink in the public offices -in the place of red, and the removal of the red fringe which usually -ornaments the Chinese caps. - -[Sidenote: IMPERIAL MOURNING.] - -The following is the translation of the "Order of rites observed in -receiving the imperial mandate, raising lamentation, and laying aside -the mourning clothes, on occasion of the grand ceremony following the -demise of an empress." It was circulated in Canton as a supplement -to the daily court circular. When the imperial mandate, written on -yellow paper, comes down the river, an officer is immediately deputed -to receive and guard it at the imperial landing place. The master of -ceremonies leads the officer, and directs him to receive the mandate -with uplifted hands; land and deposite it safely in the _dragon dome_, -(a kind of carriage borne by sixteen or thirty-two men,) and spread it -out in proper form. The civil and military officers in plain dresses, -then kneel down in order, in the "Sunny-side pavillion," and so remain -until the mandate has passed. When they have risen, the officer leads -the procession to the grand gate of the examination court; the civil -and military officers then first enter the "most public hall," and -there kneel down, the civilians on the east side, and the military -on the west, until the dragon-dome has passed; after which they rise -and wait till the dome has entered the hall of the constellation -Kwei. In this hall an embroidered yellow curtain and incense-table, -must previously be prepared, and an officer be sent to receive, with -reverence, the imperial mandate and safely lay it on the table. When -this has been done all the officers enter; upon which the master of -ceremonies cries out: "Range yourselves in order, perform the ceremony -of thrice kneeling, and nine times knocking the head." He then requests -to have the mandate read aloud; and the public official reader raises -up the mandate to read it. - -_Master of Ceremonies._ "Officers--all kneel--hear the proclamation -read--(and when the reading is concluded he continues)--rise--raise -lamentation." The officers do so accordingly. After the lamentation, -the reader places the mandate on the yellow table, and the master of -ceremonies calls out: "Deliver the imperial mandate." An officer is -then sent to the yellow table, who raises up the mandate, and delivers -it to the governor, kneeling. The governor having received it, rises, -and delivers it to the Poo-ching-sze, also kneeling; the latter -officer in turn rises, and delivers it to his chief clerk, likewise -kneeling. The clerk rises and takes it to the hall of Tsze-wei, (in the -Poo-ching-sze's office,) to be printed on yellow paper. - -_Master of Ceremonies._ "Officers--all put on mourning dresses." The -officers then retire; when they have changed their dresses, the -master of ceremonies leads them back, and gives the order: "Arrange -yourselves, thrice kneel and nine times knock head--rise--raise -lamentation--(after lamentation)--eat." The officers then go out to the -hall of abstinence, where they eat a little, the civil and military -each taking their respective sides. The master of ceremonies then -cries: "Retire." They retire to the "public place," and in the evening -reassemble, and perform the same ceremonies. At night, they sleep in -the public place, separate from their families. The same ceremonies are -performed in the morning and evening of the two following days, after -which the officers return to their ordinary duties. - -When the mandate has been copied, an officer is sent with it to the -hall of the constellation Kwei, to place it on the yellow table, and -another is sent to burn incense and keep respectful charge of it for -twenty-seven days; after which it is delivered to the Poo-ching-sze, -and sent back to the board of rites. On the twenty-seventh day, -the officers assemble as before, and, after the same ceremonies of -lamentation have been gone through, the master of ceremonies gives the -order: "Take off mourning--put on plain clothes--remove the table of -incense." All then return home and the mourning ceremonies are at an -end. - -The population contained in the eighteen provinces of the Chinese -empire, according to the census taken in the eighteenth year of the -emperor Keenlung, (corresponding to the year 1812,) amounted to three -hundred and sixty-one millions, six hundred and ninety-eight thousand, -eight hundred and seventy-nine souls. This statement is taken from -a work called the "Ta-tsing-hwny-teen," a collection of statutes of -the "Ta-tsing dynasty," published by government, in sixteen duodecimo -volumes, for the use of its own officers; it furnishes the data on -which the government acts in levying taxes, &c. All the people are -included excepting, we believe, those who are employed in the civil -and military service of the emperor. The mode of taking the census -is very minute and particular; every province is divided into _foos_ -and _chows_; these are subdivided into _heens_; from the _heen_ the -sub-division is carried down to the _kea_, which consists of only ten -families. Ten _keas_ make a _paou_, or neighbourhood of _one hundred_ -families, which has a headman or constable, whose duty it is to watch -over the whole; and among other things, to keep a list of all the -families and individuals within his jurisdiction; it is also the duty -of this constable to report the names of those within his limits to the -chief officer of the heen; who reports to the chief officer foo; he -again to the treasurer of the province; who in his turn, annually, on -the tenth moon, reports to the board of revenue at Peking. Such is the -division and the order required by the laws of the land. This system -certainly enables the government to know, and to state accurately, the -number of individuals, not only in every province, but in any given -district of each or any one of the provinces. - -The Chinese empire having remained undisturbed by wars, or by internal -commotions of much importance, for more than one hundred and twenty -years, an accumulation has taken place on a comparatively small spot, -of a moiety of all the human beings which are now in existence. On a -first view of this immense, this incomprehensible number of living -beings, we can scarcely believe the evidence of our senses or conceive -how it is possible that sustenance can be procured for such an -assemblage; but when we have ascertained that the country is nearly -destitute of flocks and herds, that the ground is almost exclusively -appropriated to the feeding and clothing of its inhabitants, that -there are a less number of souls, by seventy to the square mile, than -is found in the dutchy of Lucca, and but five more in the same space -than in the Netherlands, which contains two hundred and seventy-five, -our wonder in a great degree ceases, and we are compelled to believe -that the Chinese government has published as accurate a statement -of its population as any European government, or that of the United -States: nor can we conceive what object the government can have in -deceiving its own subjects, for the work is evidently not published -for the use of curious inquirers abroad. It is also well known, that -the inhabitants live in the most frugal manner, that a bowl of rice -with a few vegetables, or perhaps a little fish or fowl, which is very -abundant, is the entire provision of multitudes. - -Large portions of the country yield two crops annually, and those -generally very abundant; the inhabitants also obtain provisions -from the Persian gulf to the bay of Bengal, from Burmah, Siam and -Cochin-China, and from every important island throughout the great -Indian Archipelago. Every animal and vegetable substance is also an -edible with one class or other of the people. Large quantities of -vegetable produce, which in any other country would be devoured by the -flocks and herds, are here consumed by human beings. If we regard the -produce of the soil, and the manner in which the people live, we have -strong presumptive evidence of a very numerous population. - -[Sidenote: HABITS OF THE CHINESE.] - -The Chinese of the present day are grossly superstitious; they offer -sacrifices to the manes of deceased relatives and friends, and emblems -of money and clothes are consumed on the supposition that a substantial -benefit will be transferred to the individual in the world of spirits. - -In their habits they are most depraved and vicious; gambling is -universal and is carried to a most ruinous and criminal extent; -they use the most pernicious drugs as well as the most intoxicating -liquors to produce intoxication; they are also gross gluttons; every -thing that runs, walks, creeps, flies, or swims, in fact, every thing -that will supply the place of food, whether of the sea, or the land, -and articles most disgusting to other people, are by them greedily -devoured. The government has a code of laws, written in blood; the -most horrid tortures are used to force confessions, and the judges are -noted for being grossly corrupt; the variety and ingenuity displayed in -prolonging the tortures of miserable criminals who are finally intended -to be deprived of life, can only be conceived by a people refined in -cruelty, blood-thirsty, and inhuman. - -Ancient Chinese books in speaking of their character, say: "Their -natural disposition is light and ostentatious, fond of talk, artfully -specious, with little truth or sincerity--the people of Canton are -silly, light, weak in body and in mind, and without any ability to -fight. The Chinese believe in sorcery and demons, and lay stress on -a multiplicity of sacrifices--they have tattooed bodies, and short -hair." Of these ancient features of their character, they still retain -a fondness of talk, are specious, crafty and insincere; their timidity -and weakness, also still remain; they believe in sorcery and demons, -and lay stress on a multiplicity of sacrifices. Sir Thomas Herbert in -his quaint language, says: "The Chinese are no quarrellers, albeit -voluptuous, costly in their sports, great gamesters, and in trading, -too subtle for young merchants; oft-times so wedded to deceiving, that -after they have lost their whole estate, wife and children are staked; -yet in a little time, Jewlike, by gleaning here and there, they are -able to redeem their loss; and if not at the promised day, wife and -children are then sold in the market." The Chinese settlers throughout -the Indian Archipelago, are described as being at once enterprising, -keen, laborious, luxurious, sensual, debauched, and pusillanimous; they -are generally engaged in trade, in which they are equally speculative, -expert, and judicious. Their superior intelligence and activity have -placed in their hands the management of the public revenue, in almost -every country of the Archipelago, whether ruled by native or European: -the traffic of the Archipelago, with the surrounding foreign states, is -almost wholly conducted by them. - -There is scarcely a government gazette published at Peking; almost -daily, placards are posted at the principal places about Canton and -its suburbs, giving accounts of murders, and insurrections, robberies, -shocking and unnatural crimes of kidnapping, infanticides, suicides, -and of all the beastly and unnatural crimes of which the world ever -heard or read. The various modes of punishment resorted to by the -government, and the unequal distribution of justice, are revolting to -humanity, and most disgusting and loathsome in the recital. I will -relate one case to show, that, in modern times, the Chinese are not -less refined in their cruelties, than when Ta-he, the queen of Chow, -among many other horrible inventions, caused brazen rollers to be -heated, and then smeared with an unctuous matter, so that she might -have the supreme pleasure of seeing miserable culprits, fruitlessly -endeavouring to pass this burning bridge, and continually slipping into -a tremendous fire, there to meet with a death horrible in the extreme. -The case to which I have alluded, took place in the year 1813, when the -emperor of China convicted a eunuch of being concerned in a treasonable -conspiracy. The victim had been a favourite servant of the emperor's -father, Keen-lung, who had conferred upon him many favours. The poor -wretch was bound round with cords and canvass, to which was added a -quantity of tallow and other combustible matter, so as to convert him -into a _gigantic candle_, and he was slowly consumed at his father's -grave: the wretched being died in tortures the most excruciating that -imagination can conceive! - -[Sidenote: COURT CEREMONIES.] - -As our departure from hence will be for the kingdoms of Cochin-China, -and Siam, to effect suitable commercial treaties with those countries, -and as similar court ceremonies are there used as at the court of -Pekin, I herewith present a memoir, written by a most worthy and highly -respectable clergyman, the Reverend Doctor Morrison of Canton, upon -the subject of court ceremonies, observed from the lower to the higher -dignitaries throughout the Chinese empire, from the simple joining of -the hands and raising them before the breast, to the climax of all that -is debasing, the ceremony called the _San-kwei-kew-kow_, or "kneeling -three different times, and at each time knocking the head thrice -against the ground."--"What are called ceremonies, sometimes affect -materially the idea of equality. They are not always mere forms, but -revelations of a language, as intelligible as words. Some ceremonies -are perfectly indifferent, as whether the form of salutation be taking -off the hat and bowing the head, or keeping it on and bowing it low, -with the hands folded below the breast; these, the one English, and -the other Chinese, are equally good. There is, however, a difference -of submission and devotedness, expressed by different postures of the -body; and some nations feel an almost instinctive reluctance to the -stronger expression of submission. Standing and bending the head, -for instance, are less than kneeling on one knee, that is less so -than kneeling on both knees; and the latter posture less humiliating -than kneeling on two knees, and putting the hands and forehead to the -ground; doing this once, is, in the apprehension of the Chinese, less -than doing it three, six, or nine times. - -"Waiving the question, whether it be proper for one human being to -use such strong expressions of submission to another or not; when -any, even the strongest of these forms are reciprocal, they do not -destroy the idea of equality, or of mutual independence; if they are -not reciprocally performed, the last of the forms expresses in the -strongest manner, the submission and homage of one person or state to -another; and, in this light, the Tartar family, now on the throne of -China, consider the ceremony called _San-kwei-kew-kow_ thrice kneeling, -and nine times beating the head against the ground. Those nations of -Europe who consider themselves tributary and yielding homage to China, -should perform the Tartar ceremony; those who do not so consider -themselves, should not perform it. The English ambassador, Macartney, -appears to have understood correctly the meaning of the ceremony, and -proposed the only alternative which could enable him to perform it; -viz., a Chinese of equal rank performing it to the king of England's -picture. - -"Perhaps a promise from the Chinese court, that should an ambassador -ever go from thence to England, he would perform it in the king's -presence, might have enabled him to do it. These remarks will probably -convince the reader that the English government acts as every civilized -government ought to act, when she endeavours to cultivate a good -understanding, and liberal intercourse with China, while, using those -endeavours, she never contemplates yielding homage, and wisely refuses -to perform by her ambassador, that ceremony which is the expression of -homage. - -"The lowest form by which respect is shown in China at this day, is -_kung-show_, that is, joining the hands and raising them before the -breast. The next is _tsa-yih_, that is, bowing low with the hands -joined. The third is _ta-tseen_, bending the knee as if about to kneel. -The fourth is _kwei_, to kneel. The fifth is _ko-tow_, kneeling and -striking the head against the ground. The sixth, _san-kow_, striking -the head three times against the earth before rising from the knees. -The seventh, _luh-kow_, that is, kneeling and striking the forehead -three times; rising on the feet, kneeling down again, and striking the -head, again, three times on the earth. The climax is closed by the -_sun-kwei-kew-kow_, kneeling three different times, and at each time -knocking the head thrice against the ground. Some of the gods of China -are entitled only to the _san-kow_; others to the _luh-kow_; the _teen_ -(heaven) and the emperor, are worshipped with the _san-kwei-kew-kow_." - -[Sidenote: BEGGARS.] - -_Beggars_ are licensed by the government, confined within particular -districts, and are under the control of certain officers. If any are -found wandering beyond their designated limits, they are liable to -be punished by the officer who has charge over them; in addition to -this, they seldom escape being severely beaten by the mendicants whose -district they invade. They are all registered, and receive a small -monthly allowance of rice, which, together with the alms they obtain, -barely suffices to keep them from starving. Great numbers die in the -streets, in the winter, from cold and want of food, and are buried -at the public expense. A beggar is seldom forcibly driven away from -a door; for, should that occur, a complaint would be instantly made -to the proper officer, and the offender would be punished, or be -_squeezed_, as the Chinese term it, or mulct in a heavy fine. On the -28th November, 1832, public notice was given, for the beggars of a -certain district, to assemble in front of the foreign factories, "upon -important measures, touching the interests of the fraternity." It was -stated, that certain impostors, from other districts, had been guilty -of the great crime of begging within their limits; and it was therefore -necessary that the name of each person should be ascertained, that -he might be brought before the proper officer for punishment, and be -driven into his own proper district. Great numbers assembled, toward -sunset, after the regular begging hours were over. I had the curiosity -to visit this _horrible_ group of unfortunates for a few moments, and -the recollection of the scene can never be effaced from my memory. The -blind, halt, and lame, were there, of all ages and of both sexes; a -more motley group, or a more disgusting spectacle, was never before -seen. They were squalid and ragged, filthy, and covered with vermin. -Many a blind Bartelmy, and many a Lazarus, were lying there, literally -covered with sores. I returned home, sincerely thanking God that I was -not thus wretched, and that I stood in no need of a temporal physician -to cure me of any loathsome disease. - -Blindness is a very common misfortune in China; it is said to be caused -generally by depriving the head of almost its entire natural covering, -by being closely shaven, and using no effectual guard to protect it -from the extremes of the weather: none wear turbans, and but few hats -or umbrellas; slight paper fans being in general use. We were informed, -that many a child was made blind by the use of caustic, applied by its -parents, or by those who purchased it, for the purpose of exciting -compassion, in order to increase their gains in the practice of -soliciting alms. There are few sights so ridiculously amusing, in the -suburbs of Canton, as these untiring vagabonds: they are an excessive -annoyance to shop-keepers: a stranger cannot walk without seeing a -number of them assembled in the shop of some obstinate fellow, who -apparently seems determined to tire them out. - -I have frequently seen from three to six assembled, some sitting in the -doorway, some lying down, and others standing at the counter, each of -them beating most violently on two stout pieces of bamboo, and making a -most insufferable noise. - -Occasionally, a whole family of "singing beggars" are met with, making -the most horrible discord, and singing at the very top of their voices; -the rough music from marrow-bones, cleavers, and frying-pans, is vastly -preferable to it. Again, others are seen, who are either more rich, or -possess greater privileges of annoyance, being allowed to carry all -sorts of musical instruments, viz.: a drum, secured to the waist; a -small gong, suspended from the neck; and a trumpet, in the mouth. Now -and then, a sturdy, self-willed shopman, would pay no attention to -the vile pest: forthwith a loud thump was given on the drum, then a -thundering noise from the gong, followed by a horrible blast from the -trumpet. It would provoke the risibles of a saint, to see the gravity -of countenance exhibited by both parties. The shopman, attending to his -goods, apparently unconscious of the presence of the other, while the -beggar is pursuing his vocation as though his very existence depended -upon his making such a noise, as would awake the seven sleepers of -Christendom. As no customer is willing to enter a shop where he cannot -be heard, the master is at length, most unwillingly, compelled to give -him one cash, (about the eight-hundredth part of a dollar;) if this -should not be perfect in every respect, it is returned, and a good -one absolutely _demanded_, or a repetition of all that is horrible in -discord, and all that is unbearable in vile sounds is repeated. So it -proceeds from early dawn to setting-sun: as fast as one beggar-customer -is gone, another and another make their appearance; but the donor can -expel them if they call oftener than once a day. - -[Sidenote: CAT AND DOG MARKET.] - -Near the entrance of Old China-street, between Minqua's hong, and the -American hong of Messrs. Oliphant & Co., called, "Kwan yueng hang," or, -"The factory of wide fountains," (where I had the pleasure of spending -a couple of months,) there is the mart for the sale of cats and dogs. -The venders regularly meet, daily, from one to three, (_high-change -hours_ being about two.) Here may be seen, arranged along the pavement -in regular order, baskets and cages of these animals, the latter being -used for poor puss only, who seemed always to be out of place. - -Being within a half dozen steps of the venders, I overlooked them -from the balcony, and saw their daily operations; and, as trifling -as it may seem to others, I acknowledge that I was much amused with -the examinations that the poor animals underwent. Poor puss, as a -sailor would say, was "thoroughly overhauled, from clue to ear-ring," -to see if she was sound in health; if she had a handsome, smooth, -glossy coat, suitable for ornamenting some garment; if she was free -from "cow-licks," or the hair growing the wrong way; if her limbs -were sound, and suitable for making penny whistles, and other small -articles; and if she was plump, well-fatted, fit for culinary purposes, -and not blown out by injecting air into the body: a common Chinese -trick, and which is not tolerated by _fair, grave merchants_. Young -she-cats were preferred for breeders, and commanded double the price of -tom-cats. The puppies (for there were but few full grown dogs offered -for sale) were likewise thoroughly examined, to ascertain if their -outward garment was in good condition--if they were fat, sleek, free -from a musky or strong smell, and fit to make a rich press-soup, of -which the Chinese are extravagantly fond; if their limbs were sound and -not distorted, and if they were the true Chinese breed of prick-eared -curs, having black palates and black tongues, with a well-curved -feathery tail. The sluts brought generally, I found, more than double -the price of the males. The pedigree (being an important matter always -in monarchical governments) was also particularly inquired into. - -It may perhaps, by some, be thought that I have been unnecessarily -particular in making the above statements, in reference to an -insignificant portion of the brute creation; but, as I was anxious to -give every particular in reference to the internal, as well as external -commerce of China, the reader will perhaps excuse the detail given -above. - -I cannot take my leave of the canine species, without relating a -provoking loss which befel Dr. M. B--ghs, of Philadelphia, during my -stay in China. The gentleman had purchased, at a high price, a fine -pup, on Change, for the purpose of carrying it to the United States. -The dog being rather troublesome in running about the house, he told -a Chinese servant, who spoke English, to tie him up. The doctor went -out, as usual, in search of curiosities, such as rare birds, &c., -which he skinned and prepared. On his return, he inquired of the -servant if he had tied up the dog and secured him. "Yez," said he, -"hab done, hab done." Well, said the doctor, where is he "Up loom, -up loom," meaning up in the doctor's room; for a China-man cannot -pronounce the letter _r_. He immediately ushered the way up stairs, -threw open the chamber-door suddenly, and exhibited the dog tied up, -but strangled, having hung him! "Can do? can do?" said he, with an air -perfectly unconscious of having done wrong. "Can do?" said the doctor, -echoing back his words in a tone which indicated any thing rather than -satisfaction, "I wish you were there tied up in his stead." - -In front of the foreign factories, there are assembled regularly, every -morning, at an early hour, the "Barbers," with their basins and snug -seats, for the use of their customers. They wield a very short, clumsy -razor, having a round wooden handle, without a particle of superfluous -wood about it: the blade is two and a half inches long, one and a half -inches broad at the end, and tapering to less than half an inch toward -the handle; it is three eighths of an inch in thickness, for about an -inch and a half of its length; the handle is of wood, round, and three -eighths of an inch in diameter, and the length of the instrument is six -inches. - -Strict economy is observed in shaving; water only being used to soften -the hair. The head is shaved, leaving only a long lock, which is -plaited or braided, and if the tail fails to reach the heels, it is -eked out with black riband. Generally speaking, all the hair is shaved -from the face, nose, and the _eye-lids_; for a China-man will always -have the full worth of his money, although he pays but three or four -cash (equal to about a half cent) to the operator; the eyebrows are -then adjusted, and the hair eradicated from the ears and nostrils with -tweezers; the nail and corn cutter is then resorted to, who repairs and -polishes the nails of the hands and feet: the China-man is in prime -order--a small scull-cap, or palm-leaf pointed hat, is then put on, -or he protects his head with an ordinary looking paper fan, having on -it some moral sentences. At ten and at four he goes to his dark hole, -where he exercises his "chop-sticks" with great dexterity, regaling -himself with rice and vegetables, deluged with the fat of pork, if he -can obtain it. A draught of water, and a dram of shewhing, (arrack,) a -pipe of tobacco, and a piece of areca-nut, place him at once among the -celestials; but if to these, a pipe or two of refined opium be added, -not that exquisite of all pleasures, in the opinion of the country -bumpkin, of swinging on a gate all day, and eating bountifully of -mush and molasses, can bear any comparison with this care-killing and -unparalleled pleasure. - -Of all uncouth figures, that strut their little hour upon the stage -of life, a China-man is surely the most grotesque animal. A loose -shirt for his outer and principal garment--his bagging breeks, added -to his white slouching stockings, made of cotton cloth, filled with -wrinkles--his black cloth slippers, with a white sole half an inch -thick--his shaved head, with his long plaited cue, streaming out -when he runs, like a ship's pennant in a brisk breeze--his elongated -and stupid eyes; a fan in one hand, and a long wooden pipe in the -other--his enormous spectacles, without bows, astride on the tip of his -nose, and his mouth upon the full gape, standing for hours in front of -the factory of "wide fountains," looking at the fan-kweis, (the foreign -white devils,) present him as the most unprepossessing figure ever -beheld--the most awkward looking biped in the universe. - -[Sidenote: SLAVERY.] - -Chang-ling, the great hero of Cashgar, has memorialized his majesty, -and informed him, that, during the late attack of the rebels on that -city, they endeavored to inundate it by cutting a channel and entering -the course of the adjoining river; but the Lung-shin, (Dragon-god,) -who presides over rivers and seas, prevented the design from being -effected. For this "_divine manifestation_" in favour of the imperial -cause, the emperor has ordered a _new title_ to be given to the god, a -_new temple_ to be built, and a _new tablet_ to _adorn_ it. Slavery, -in China, presents its worst features; the children of the slaves are -born slaves; and the children of free masters enjoy their rights over -them throughout all generations. There have been cases in which the -masters have become poor, and allowed their slaves to go and provide -for themselves; they have become rich, but being again found by their -masters, the latter have seized all the property. There are slaves of -another class, who are not bought outright, but with the condition that -they may be redeemed. Good masters admit the claim, when made agreeably -to contract; but bad ones use every expedient to prevent the claim of -redemption. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - - CLIMATE OF CANTON AND MACAO--METEOROLOGICAL AVERAGES--DEPARTURE - FROM CANTON FOR MACAO AND LINTING--MACAO--POPULATION--SUPERSTITIOUS - CEREMONY. - - -[Sidenote: CLIMATE.] - -The coast of China being similarly situated to that of the United -States, having a vast continent stretching from the south and northwest -to the northeast, possesses a climate nearly of the same character and -temperature. From the gulf of Tung-hing to the vicinity of Canton, it -may well be compared to the coast stretching from the Mississippi to -North Carolina, and the coast extending from Canton to that of Tartary, -to the states from North Carolina to Maine. - -The climate of Peking is salubrious, and like that of the middle and -northern states of the union. The water is frozen from December until -March. Violent storms occur in the spring; the heat in summer is great, -and the autumnal months of September, October and November are the most -pleasant part of the year. But my principal object is to delineate -the climate of Canton and Macao, which lie between the latitudes of -twenty-two and twenty-three north; the statement is copied from the -Canton Register. I have added thereto several tables of meteorological -averages. Canton is regarded by the Chinese, as one of the most -unhealthy portions of their country, yet it is a more healthy climate -than that of most other places, situated in the same degree of latitude. - -The weather during the month of January, is dry, cold, and bracing, -differing but little, if at all, from the two preceding months, -November and December. The wind blows generally from the north, -occasionally inclining to northeast or northwest. Any change to -the south, causes considerable variation in the temperature of the -atmosphere. - -During the month of _February_ the thermometer continues low; but the -dry, bracing cold of the three preceding months is changed for a damp -and chilly atmosphere: the number of fine days is much diminished, and -cloudy or foggy weather of more frequent recurrence in February and -March than in any other months. At Macao, the fog is often so dense as -to render objects invisible at a few yards' distance. - -The weather in the month of _March_, as stated above, is damp and -foggy; but the temperature of the atmosphere becomes considerably -warmer. To preserve articles from damp, it is requisite to continue the -use of fires and closed rooms, which the heat of the atmosphere renders -very unpleasant. From this month the thermometer rises until July and -August, when the heat is at its maximum. - -The thick fogs which begin to disappear towards the close of _March_, -are, in April, seldom if ever seen. The atmosphere, however, continues -damp, and rainy days are not unfrequent; the thermometer at the same -time, gradually rises, and the nearer approach of the sun, renders -its heat more perceptible. In this, and the following summer months, -southeasterly winds generally prevail. - -In the month of _May_, summer is fully set in, and the heat, -particularly in Canton, is often oppressive; the more so from the -closeness of the atmosphere, the winds being usually light and -variable. This is the most rainy month in the year, averaging fifteen -days and a half of heavy rain; cloudy days, without rain, are, however, -of unfrequent occurrence; and one half of the month averages fine sunny -weather. - -_June_ is also a very wet month, yet, taking the aggregate, the number -of rainy days is less than in the other summer months. The thermometer -in this month rises several degrees higher than in May, and falls -but little at night. It is this latter circumstance chiefly, which -occasions the exhaustion often felt in this country from the heat of -summer. - -The month of _July_ is the hottest in the year, the thermometer -reaching eighty-eight in the shade, at noon, both at Canton and Macao. -This month is also subject to frequent heavy showers of rain, and, like -the month of August, to storms of thunder and lightning. The winds blow -almost unintermittingly from southeast or south. - -In the month of _August_ the heat is generally as oppressive as in -July, and often more so, although the thermometer usually stands lower. -Towards the close of the month, the summer begins to break up, the wind -occasionally veering from southeast, to north and northwest. Typhoons -seldom occur earlier than this month or later than the end of September. - -In _September_ the monsoon is generally broken up, and northerly winds -begin to blow, but with little alleviation of heat. This is the period -most exposed to the description of hurricanes called typhoons, the -range of which extends southward, over about one half of the Chinese -sea, but not far northward; they are most severe in the gulf of Tonquin. - -Northerly winds prevail throughout the month of _October_, occasionally -veering to northeast or northwest; but the temperature of the -atmosphere is neither so cold nor dry as in the following months, nor -does the northerly wind blow so constantly, a few days of southerly -wind frequently intervening. The winter usually sets in with three or -four days of light drizzling rain. - -_November_, and the following months, are the most pleasant in the -year, at least to the feelings of persons from more northern climes. -Though the thermometer is not often below forty, and seldom so low -as thirty, the cold of the Chinese winter is often very severe. Ice -often forms about one eighth of an inch thick; but this is usually in -December or January. - -The months of _December_ and _January_ are remarkably free from rain; -the average fall, in each month, being under one inch; and the average -number of rainy days being only three and a half. On the whole, the -climate of Canton, but more especially of Macao, may be considered -superior to that of most other places situated between the tropics. - -Tables of observations on the thermometer and barometer for the year -1831. The averages at Canton are taken from the Canton Register. The -averages at Macao, from a private diary, kept by Mr. Blettersnan. - - Column headings: - - ad: aver. noon. - an: aver. night. - h: highest. - l: lowest. - am: aver. 7 a. m. - pm: aver. 2 p. m. - mh: mean height. - - Table I. Table II. Table III. Table IV. - Thermometer at Thermometer at Barometer at Barometer at - Canton. Macao. Canton. Macao. - --------------------+--------------+-----------------+----------------- - ad an h l |am pm h l | mh h l | mh h l - -----+--------------+--------------+-----------------+----------------- - Jan. |64 50 74 29|62 65 72 53|30.22 30.50 30.00|30.26 30.50 30.05 - Feb. |57 49 78 38|59 59 71 49|30.13 30.50 29.60|30.13 30.40 29.97 - March|72 60 82 44|66 69 77 55|30.17 30.50 29.95|30.20 30.48 30.05 - April|77 68 86 55|73 75 83 66|30.03 30.25 29.85|30.08 30.27 29.93 - May |78 72 88 64|77 78 85 71|29.92 30.10 29.80|29.95 30.06 29.85 - June |85 79 90 74|82 84 89 74|29.88 30.00 29.75|29.92 30.00 29.85 - July |88 81 94 79|84 88 92 81|29.83 30.00 29.60|29.87 30.01 29.60 - Aug. |85 78 90 75|82 85 90 79|29.85 30.00 29.55|29.88 30.02 29.56 - Sept.|83 76 88 70|81 84 88 76|29.91 30.10 29.70|29.91 30.05 29.35 - Oct. |77 69 85 57|75 78 86 61|30.01 30.20 29.50|30.03 30.19 29.45 - Nov. |67 57 80 40|65 68 80 57|30.16 30.55 29.95|30.14 30.36 29.95 - Dec. |62 52 70 45|62 65 70 57|30.23 30.35 30.15|30.23 30.31 30.15 - -The average of rain is the mean of its fall at Macao, during sixteen -years, furnished by Mr. Beale. The number of rainy days and continuance -of winds, are the mean of four years at Canton, taken from the Canton -Register. - - Column headings: - - a: average. - h: high. - l: low. - mq: mean quantity in inches. - mn: mean number of rainy days. - - |Table V. | Table VI.| Table VII. - |Hygrom. | Rain at | Continuance of Winds at Canton, the - |at Macao.| Canton. | mean of four years. - +---------+----------+--------------------------------------- - |a h l | mq mn | days. - +---------+----------+--------------------------------------- - | | | N. NE. E. SE. S. SW. W. NW. - Jan. |76 95 46 | 0.63/4 31/2|11 2 21/4 4 4 01/2 0 7 - Feb. |82 96 76 | 1.7 7 |11 11/2 21/4 51/4 11/2 01/4 0 61/4 - March|78 97 30 | 2.11/2 6 | 53/4 13/4 33/4 103/4 21/2 0 01/2 3 - April|81 95 50 | 5.63/4 10 | 61/4 1 4 143/4 1 01/2 0 31/2 - May |81 95 57 |11.81/2 151/2| 43/4 21/2 31/2 161/4 11/4 01/4 01/4 21/2 - June |80 95 70 |11.1 9 | 13/4 03/4 2 211/4 3 03/4 0 01/2 - July |83 96 70 | 7.71/2 10 | 11/4 1 13/4 21 3 13/4 01/4 1 - Aug. |84 97 70 | 9.9 121/2| 3 2 3 18 11/4 01/4 01/2 3 - Sept.|84 95 50 |10.91/4 10 |10-3/8 4 3-1/8 83/4 0 0 0 23/4 - Oct. |75 95 20 | 5.5 5 |12 31/4 3-1/8 5-7/8 13/4 01/2 0-1/8 53/4 - Nov. |61 96 20 | 2.41/2 3 |23 01/2 0-3/8 11/4 1-7/8 0 0 3 - Dec. |71 90 30 | 0.93/4 31/2|181/2 2-7/8 1-1/8 2 23/4 0 0-1/8 3-5/8 - -After remaining nearly two months at Canton, I took passage in a fine -cutter, under English colours, for Macao, via Linting, and anchored in -about twenty-four hours, within half a mile of the landing, at Pria -Grande. Immediately on our nearing the harbour, a race took place among -the amphibious damsels that inhabit the numerous sampans, tanka or -egg-boats, which always lie within a short distance of the shore. Whole -families inhabit them, and they are extremely encumbered with children, -and the various articles used by the family. Their length is from -twelve to eighteen feet, and the breadth is about one half the length. -They have oval, sliding roofs, made of bamboo or mats, in two or three -sections, which are extended occasionally the whole length of the -boat. The occupants are extremely poor and miserable; they wear slight -dresses, consisting of a long frock and trousers, of tan-coloured -cotton. Except when heavy gales prevail, they rarely sleep on shore. - -[Sidenote: MACAO.] - -The town of Macao presents a pretty appearance from the roadstead. A -spacious semi-circular bay is encompassed with hills, crowned with -forts, convents, churches, and private buildings: the houses being -kept well whitewashed, it gives the town quite a neat appearance. The -streets are generally narrow, but they are exceedingly so through the -Chinese bazar, &c., not exceeding, perhaps, six or eight feet. Most of -the houses are built in the Portuguese style; but the Chinese houses -are, with very few exceptions, dark, filthy, and uncomfortable. Macao -is the summer residence of the foreign merchants of Canton; and it -is reputed to be one of the most immoral places in the world. It is -a rocky peninsula, about eight English miles in circumference; its -greatest length is about three, and its breadth less than one mile. -It forms part of the island of Heong-shan-nne, and was renowned, long -before the Portuguese were settled there, for its safe and commodious -inner harbour, and a temple consecrated to Ama. This settlement was -formerly called Amangas, that is, the port of Ama; and first took the -name of A-macao; but, in time, the first letter was suppressed, and -the place has ever since been called Macao by the Portuguese, and Moon -by the Chinese. The Portuguese had _temporary_ abodes at this place, -for about twenty years, by giving bribes to the authorities to erect -huts, under the false pretext of drying damaged goods, until they were -expelled by mal-conduct, in 1558, from Ningpa and Chinchew, when they -induced the local officers of Macao, by their old system of bribery, to -erect permanent dwellings. - -[Sidenote: POPULATION OF MACAO.] - -The population from that time, rapidly increased; a temporary -government was established, and a great influx of priests followed. In -the year 1573, the wall across the isthmus was erected by the Chinese -government, to prevent the _kidnapping of children_, as well as the -sale of them by their wretched parents to over-zealous missionaries, -who adopted every means, however infamous, to make converts to their -religion, and to prevent the ingress of the Chinese; but it has been -long disregarded by the latter. The wall is now in a ruinous state near -the bay, being partly broken down by the encroachment of the sea; but -still no foreigners are allowed to cross it; and all provisions must -come to the gate, where a market is still held at daybreak. - -It was supposed by the world, that Portugal exercised sovereign -authority over Macao, till 1802, when a British military detachment -arrived and offered to defend it, in conjunction with the Portuguese, -against an apprehended attack from the French; knowing if they obtained -possession of it, the British commerce with Canton would be destroyed: -the Portuguese governor could not accept of their assistance, because -the Chinese authorities would not permit it. In 1808, although a -British force obtained possession of three forts, by the connivance -of the Macao government, the Chinese authorities ordered them to quit -their territories, or they would put a stop to the British trade at -Canton, and drive the Portuguese from Macao, for suffering foreign -troops to land there, without first obtaining permission of the -emperor. Macao, therefore, is still part of the Chinese empire. This is -acknowledged by the Portuguese, who still pay an annual ground-rent, -which has varied at different times, but is now limited to five hundred -taels. The Portuguese and Chinese are both governed by their respective -laws and officers; but in case of collision between two persons of -the different nations, the Chinese always dictate to the former in -what way the affair must be settled. For fifty or sixty years, the -Portuguese enjoyed the exclusive trade to China and Japan. In 1717, -and again in 1732, the Chinese government offered to make Macao the -emporium for all foreign trade, and to receive all duties on imports; -but, by a strange infatuation, the Portuguese government refused, and -its decline is dated from that period. In 1686, when all vessels of -the Chinese empire were prohibited from navigating the southern sea, -their shipping and commerce declined rapidly, till, in 1704, only two -ships remained, which could neither be manned nor fitted out. This -prohibition was, some time after, annulled. The vessels that belonged -to the port in 1832, consisted of only fifteen, (being ten less than -is allowed by the Chinese government;) their united tonnage being -four thousand five hundred and sixty-nine tons. In 1833, the number -had diminished to twelve. These vessels are principally chartered -for foreign ports by Chinese adventurers, the owners generally being -destitute of means to load them. The whole income from the customs, in -1830, was only sixty-nine thousand one hundred and thirty-eight taels; -and of this sum, thirty thousand one hundred and thirty-two taels were -paid on one thousand eight hundred and thirty-three and a half chests -of opium. The disbursements were: to the military, twenty-nine thousand -six hundred and twenty-two; civil servants, twenty-four thousand four -hundred and seventy; and to the church establishment, eight thousand -seven hundred and thirty. The extraordinary expenses were forty-six -thousand six hundred and twenty-nine, making a deficiency of about -forty thousand eight hundred taels, which must be supplied from Goa. -The population of Macao was estimated, in 1830, at four thousand six -hundred and twenty-eight, viz.: one thousand two hundred and two -white men; two thousand one hundred and forty-nine white women; three -hundred and fifty male slaves; seven hundred and seventy-nine female -slaves; and thirty-nine men, and one hundred and eighteen women, of -different castes, who are all Roman Catholics. The Chinese population -is estimated at thirty thousand. The European Portuguese consist of -only sixty-two persons. - -Macao is walled on one side, and has six forts; twelve churches, -including the church and college of St. Joseph; five small chapels, -and one Budhist temple: without the walls are three additional -temples. There is one school, where children are taught to read and -write correct Portuguese, (for this language, as spoken at Macao, is -exceedingly corrupt;) and another, where the Portuguese and Latin -grammar are taught. These are supported by royal bounty. There are an -English opthalmic hospital, and a small museum. - -I visited a _Budhist temple_, facing the inner harbour, situated in -the midst of a number of large rocks, trees being seen growing out of -their crevices. It was really composed of a number of small temples, -seated on terraces, communicating with each other by means of steps -cut out of the rock. All the buildings, wall, and steps, leading to -it, are of hewn granite, very neatly wrought, and having ornamental -work, finished in a masterly manner. This temple is a place of great -resort for mariners; and near the landing, are various offerings of -anchors, ropes, and spars. The devotees were constantly passing in -and out from the temple to the priests' houses, seated in a court. -There were several priests in attendance, and others were lounging -about the altars, with some old women, who appeared to be attached -to the premises. This temple is called "_Neang-ma-ho_," a temple of -the "Queen of heaven." The origin of it is said to be this: A number -of Fokein fishermen were about sailing from that province, when a -lady made her appearance, and told them they would all be lost in a -storm, unless they deferred it for some days. They paid no heed to her -advice, (excepting the crew of one boat,) and they were all lost in -a "ta-fung-pao," or "great tempest." The lady embarked on board the -remaining boat, when the storm had subsided, and safely landed near to -the spot where the temple now is; from that moment she was never seen -again. She is esteemed as holy, and is invoked as the protectress of -all Chinese mariners. - -[Sidenote: BIRDS.] - -I here witnessed a piece of superstition, which reminded me of drawing -lots, or cards, or opening the Bible in search of a cheering text -of Scripture, which is practised by superstitious people, in some -_Christian_ countries, for _good luck_. It was this: Many Chinese, of -both sexes, drew from a box on an altar, after considerable hesitation, -a bamboo slip, having Chinese characters marked on the end; which, I -was informed, was done by every one before they undertook any great -enterprise, and often in the minor affairs of life. They were asking a -sign from the gods; their request was to be answered favourably or not, -by carrying the mark on the stick to the priest, and ascertaining what -the corresponding mark decided. I went down near to the priest's house, -and saw many return with cheerful countenances, and a light, elastic -step, having received a favourable decision; while others walked out -very slowly and despondingly, as though good fortune and themselves had -for ever parted company. The view of the inner harbour, from this spot, -and the beautiful garden, in which is found the celebrated cave, as -it is called, of Camoens, (which, by the by, is no cave, but a narrow -passage between two very large masses of rock; and on their apex, is -placed a summer-house,) is highly picturesque. The garden is extensive, -and laid out in a picturesque style; most of the walks are chunamed, -and it is suffering by neglect. The ascent to the higher grounds is -steep; but I was amply repaid by the fine scenery which it disclosed. -I had the pleasure of seeing the celebrated aviary of Mr. Beale. -There, for the first time, I saw one of the several species of the bird -of Paradise; also the silver pheasant, mandarin ducks, and a great -variety of the rarest birds, all in a most thriving condition, and -under the immediate superintendence of their worthy owner. - -Mr. John R. Morrison, son of the Rev. Dr. Morrison, here joined me, -for the purpose of acting in the capacity of Chinese translator, -interpreter, and private secretary, on the mission to Cochin-China and -Siam, and to return to China from Singapore. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII. - - SAILING FROM LINTING TO VUNG-LAM HARBOUR, IN THE PROVINCE OF - FOOYAN, OR PHUYEN--GOVERNMENT OF SHUNDAI--ASSISTANT KEEPER - OF VUNG-LAM--LETTERS TO THE KING OF COCHIN-CHINA--CATHOLIC - PRIEST--DEPUTIES FROM SHUNDAI. - - -After enduring several days of rainy and squally weather, we weighed -anchor, and proceeded towards Turan bay, on the northern coast of -Cochin-China, being the nearest and best point to hold communication -with the capital, called Hue, from which it is distant about fifty -miles; it being impossible to anchor off the bar of Hue during the -northeast monsoon. The weather during the passage, with the exception -of one day, was misty or rainy; and on the first day of January, 1833, -we found ourselves off the bay of Turan: but the weather was very -thick, with a heavy sea running, and the wind shifting nearly every -half hour, from northwest to northeast. - -[Sidenote: VUNG-LAM HARBOUR.] - -Finding it unsafe to run nearer to the land, we endeavoured to hold our -station, as well as we could, till the weather cleared up sufficiently -to see our way in; but it continued nearly the same till the fifth, -the wind remaining most of the time in the northwest quarter: daily we -lost ground, by contrary winds, and a strong current setting to the -southward and eastward along the coast. The very mountainous land about -the bay, was first lost sight of; in two or three days following, the -group of islands called Champella, or Cham Callao; afterward the island -of False Champella. Finding ourselves at length drifted down to Pulo -Cambir, and losing ground on every tack, we were under the unpleasant -necessity of bearing away for the most suitable and nearest harbour, -which was done at sunset on the fifth, calculating the distance to -the united harbours of Shundai, Vung-chao, and Vung-lam, (represented -by Horsburg to be very safe, and having sufficient depth of water,) -at one hundred and twenty miles. The wind, during most of the night, -was light from the northeast; and we had run, by the log accurately -kept, at seven the next morning, a distance not exceeding seventy to -seventy-five miles. At daybreak, the ship's head was directed towards -the coast, but not seeing any very conspicuous landmarks, we kept -along shore till eight; having, within an hour, passed an island, and -a group of small jagged rocks, standing so near the coast that we at -first supposed the island to be part of the main land; it was, however, -Pulo Cambir, lying to the north of our port of destination. Seeing, -to the southward of us, a large fleet of fishing boats; a very high -conical mountain, which we supposed must be mount Epervier; and the -land, extending far to the eastward, which we were satisfied must be -cape Averella, or Pagoda cape; and, at the same time, discovering the -island of Maignia, a short distance to the southward of the harbour, -we stood boldly in, and, at twelve, came to anchor, in six and a half -fathoms water, in the fine harbour of Vung-lam; the village of that -name, bearing to the southwest, distant a mile and a half, and within -three quarters of a mile of a small, uninhabited, and unnamed island, -bearing south, called, by us, Peacock island. The beautiful harbour -of Vung-chao, being open to our view, in the northeast, two miles -distant; and the harbour, or roadstead, of Shundai, with Nest island, -bearing east, about the same distance. It will be seen, by the distance -per log, that we were currented along, in fifteen hours, fifty miles; -nearly equal to three and a half miles per hour. - -To the southward of Cambir, lies a sand-beach, extending up a rising -ground, which, together with a more extensive plot near the southern -entrance, but to the southward of the island of Maignia, assist, as a -leading mark, in running in. - -This is, truly, one of the finest harbours in the world, and free from -all obstructions, save a rock, called the buoy rock, within one and a -half miles of our anchorage, the top of which is above water. - -The country around is apparently well cultivated, being laid out in -small patches, resembling gardens. It is beautifully picturesque and -bold, frequently running into hills, from one to fifteen hundred feet -high; the verdure of which extends, in many places, to the water's -edge. The hand of the workman has here been busy on every spot -susceptible of cultivation. Villages were seen among the palm-trees, -near the sandy beaches, and on the cultivated swells of land, for many -miles around us. - -In the afternoon of the day on which we anchored, an old man came on -board; though raggedly dressed and dirty, he appeared to be somewhat -superior to the fishermen who brought him off. Not being offered a -seat at first, he seemed rather disconcerted, and expressed a desire -to leave; but, having learned that he was an official personage, he -was invited down to the gun-deck, and there seated. Being interrogated -more particularly, in relation to his rank in the village, he stated -himself to be a Keep-tu (literally, assistant keeper) of Vung-lam and -King-chow, and the principal person in the village; but that he had a -superior, or commandant, at Shundai, under whom is also another officer -of equal rank with himself. - -In reply to questions about the names of places, he said that the -southernmost, or principal town or village, was called Shun-dai; -that the central one, opposite which we lay, is Vung-lam; that the -most northern is Vung-chao. Shundai, he said, formed one part, and -Vung-lam and Vung-chao, another. He was asked whether there were any -fortifications on shore; and it was explained to him that a salute -would be fired in honour of the king, if there were any guns on shore -to return it. He said there was no fortification at Vung-lam, but that -there was a fort at Shundai. He was then informed, that, on the next -morning, a salute would be fired; which was accordingly done, with -thirteen guns. Upon inquiring whether the vessel was come to trade, -or for public business, he was informed that she was a ship of war, -sent out by the President of the United States, containing a special -envoy, with a letter for the King of Cochin-China. It was explained to -him, also, that the envoy wished to go to the capital, as speedily as -possible, in order to have an audience, and to present the President's -letter. He seemed desirous to have some written paper, which he might -present to his superior: but no such paper was in readiness for him. -It was told him, that the special agent would himself write to the -capital, to announce his arrival, and desire an audience. - -In order to obtain a better idea of what measures would be requisite, -to expedite the application to Hue, various questions were asked -respecting the government, &c. He stated that the government of Shundai -and its dependancies, are immediately subordinate to the supreme -provincial government of Fooyan (or Phuyen). That the provincial -government consists of a Tongdok or governor who presides over two -provinces, and is now in the adjoining province, to the north, a Bo -chang-sue, or treasurer and sub-governor, and Au-tat-sue, or judge; and -that the seat of government is within a day's journey. The name of -the capital he said, is Tuea-tien-pu; that of the king is Ming-meng. -Speaking of the capital, he said that the ship might return northward -to it in three or four days. Attention to other points prevented any -reply being made to this remark at the time, and it was afterward -forgotten. He inquired the name of the envoy, and the number of men on -board. He then took leave after having drunk a little wine. The old man -was throughout lively and cheerful. As he wrote Chinese pretty well, it -was easy to hold intercourse with him. - -_January sixth._ Towards evening, a large party came on board, -consisting of the old head-man of Vung-lam, who visited us yesterday, -two persons despatched by the commandant of Shundai, and two Chinese -interpreters, with a number of attendants anxious to satisfy their -curiosity. The Chinese being able to speak the Mandarin as well as -their own provincial dialect, (that of Canton,) conversation was kept -up with greater facility than yesterday, little of it being held in -writing. They stated that two officers of the ninth rank, deputed by -the chiefs of the provincial government, had arrived about noon, and -had sent them to ascertain where the ship was from, and what was the -object in coming. They were answered that she was a ship of war, and -sent by the President of the United States of America, and that she -brought a special envoy, bearing a letter to the king of Cochin-China. -They were told, also, that the envoy wished to repair speedily to the -capital, and intended to send a letter himself to announce his arrival. -They requested a written paper to enable them to report to their -superiors. The following paper was therefore given them, in Chinese and -English. After receiving it they returned to the shore:-- - -"This is a ship of war of the United States of America. This ship is -called the Peacock. The captain's name is David Geisinger. This ship -has been sent here by the president of the United States, he wishing to -form a treaty of friendly intercourse with the king of Cochin China. - -"There is on board the ship a special envoy, Edmund Roberts, bearing a -letter from the president of the United States, which he is to present -personally to the king of Cochin-China. The number of persons on board, -including both officers and men, is one hundred and sixty-six. - -"The ship at first intended going into Tonquin bay, but not being able -on account of the current, she came here. - -"January sixth, 1833." - -Before they left, inquiries were made respecting provisions, and they -were told, that it was desirable they should tell the people to bring -things off to the ship to sell. They replied that the market was open -to go and purchase any thing. On this occasion, as well as yesterday, -no restriction was imposed on our visiting the shore, although to -prevent offence being taken, they were informed that we should do so. - -_January seventh._ This morning, the same party as yesterday came -off again, with the addition of the two deputies from the seat of -government, and their retinue, consisting of umbrella-bearers, -trumpeters, and sword-bearers. The two deputies appeared anxious -to make as much as possible of themselves. They ran over various -questions of the same nature as those put by their precursors; which -having been briefly answered, they were told that the envoy was then -preparing a despatch for the king, and that in about an hour, it would -be taken on shore by a naval officer; when they must be prepared to -receive and forward it immediately to the capital of the province, or -wherever else it might be necessary for them to send it, in the first -instance. They then entered upon a number of impertinent queries, -such as, whether there were any presents for the king; what were the -contents of the letter to him; asking to see a copy of the envoy's -despatch to the capital, and the envoy and captain's commissions. -In all these inquiries they were immediately checked, and with some -difficulty, brought to answer the questions, whether they were willing -to receive and forward the despatch or not. Having answered in the -affirmative, they were told that was satisfactory--that the despatch -was being completed--that in the meanwhile they should return and make -preparations to receive the officer who bore it. - -The subject of provisions and particularly _water_, was again -introduced, but nothing satisfactory was elicited in reply; the market, -they said, was open. - -A little after noon, the despatch was carried on shore by Lieutenant -Brent. It was a letter in the form of a Chinese memorial, from the -envoy to the king of Cochin-China, and was written both in Chinese and -English. The following is a copy:-- - - "To his majesty, the king of Cochin-China:-- - - "The undersigned, Edmund Roberts, has the honour to inform your - majesty, that Andrew Jackson, president of the United States of - America, being desirous of opening a friendly intercourse with the - king of Cochin-China, has despatched the United States' ship-of-war - Peacock, commanded by Captain David Geisinger, to your majesty's - dominions. The president of the United States of America has - despatched the undersigned, his special envoy, to your majesty's - court, intrusting him with a letter to your majesty, and has - clothed him with full power to treat with your majesty, for the - important objects which the president of the United States has in - view. He therefore requests that your majesty will grant him an - interview, with the least possible loss of time. - - It was the intention of the commander of the said United States' - ship-of-war, to have entered the bay of Turan; but having been - driven from thence, after repeated attempts, by adverse winds and - currents, he has been compelled at length to enter this port. As - contrary winds and currents now prevail, it is rendered impossible - for the envoy to proceed to Turan bay. The undersigned must, - therefore, await your Majesty's answer here. - - Dated on board the United States' ship Peacock, in Vung-lam roads, - province of Fooyan, Cochin-China, the seventh day of January, A. D. - 1833, the fifty-seventh year of Independence. - - (Signed) EDMUND ROBERTS - -Not being well acquainted with the Cochin-Chinese forms, the letter was -simply folded up in paper and sealed, being enclosed in vellum, and -addressed-- - - TO HIS MAJESTY, - The King of Cochin-China, &c., &c., &c. - -The two deputies had made considerable parade, opposite the low and -dirty hut, in which they were waiting to receive the despatch. There -was a party of soldiers, with pikes fixed in the sand, at regular -distances; three elephants, with small riding-boxes on their backs; -palanquins, or travelling conveyances, of the kind used in the country; -and several ponies. The village generally has a dirty and miserable -appearance. There are a few neat little brick and wood houses, with -tiled roofs; the rest are all of mat, or the kind of leaf called -_attap_, little better than mere sheds. - -After the despatch had been received by them, with a promise -that it should be forwarded immediately, several questions were -asked respecting the roads, the conveniences for travelling, and -accommodations between this and Hue. Answers were elicited from them -with considerable trouble. One of them, who admitted that he had twice -followed the road, saying that he had forgot all about it. They seemed -desirous to give as bad an idea as possible of the road, as though -they considered it not quite impossible for the ship to go further -north, and thus to relieve them of all trouble and responsibility. The -road, they said, was big with numerous dangers and difficulties; few -stopping-places or accommodations, and those few bad. The conveyance -for baggage, cumbrous, being on men's shoulders. Houses were, however, -numerous on the road, and provisions abundant. - -Their answers respecting provisions and their prices were -unsatisfactory; nor could they be induced to make any arrangements -for the natives to bring things off to the ship. Every thing appears -much dearer here than we expected to find it; even rice and sugar, -which we supposed the chief productions, are not much cultivated in -this neighbourhood. But the country around seems well fitted to afford -abundance of cheap provisions, did commerce hold out any inducement to -produce more than is needed for personal use. They stated the number of -inhabitants in Vung-lam to be about three thousand, and rather less in -each of the other places. - -Before leaving, they were again requested to forward the despatch for -the king speedily; and, at the same time, to report to their superiors -that the envoy would require to be accompanied by a party of at least -fifteen or sixteen persons, and considerable baggage. As the boat -pulled off, they set out, with their retinue of elephants, palanquins, -and ponies; and, as we afterward found, returned at once to their -superiors, at the capital of Foo-yan. - -[Sidenote: CATHOLIC PRIEST.] - -_January eighth._ In the forenoon, a Cochin-Chinese Roman Catholic -priest came off, and held a written conversation, in Latin, with Dr. -Ticknor, of which the following is the substance:-- - -_Priest._ "I am a Catholic priest. The prefect (or governor) has sent -me to inquire whether you are Catholics, and of what nation you are, -whether French or English?" - -_Answer._ "A few of us are Catholics. We are from North America." - -_Priest._ "On what business has your king sent you? On business to our -king, or for the purpose of trade?" - -_Ans._ "Our business is with your king. This is a ship-of-war, (or -king's ship,) not a merchant's ship." - -_Priest._ "Have you any presents?" - -_Ans._ "I cannot answer that question." - -_Priest._ "Do you remain here, or go to our king at Hue?" - -_Ans._ "We shall go to your king, at Hue, when we hear from him." - -_Priest._ "The prefect sent me to learn whether you have business with -our king, what it is, and of what nation you are?" - -_Ans._ "Our business has been communicated to your king, and it is with -him alone. We are from the United States of North America. Have you any -knowledge of North America?" - -_Priest._ "I have no knowledge of North America. I know England, -France, Spain, &c. Will you tell me whether you have a minister -(_nuncium ad visitandum et cognoscendum_) authorized to negociate." - -_Ans._ "We have a minister (_nuncium_) to your king, to be acknowledged -by him." - -_Priest._ "Has your king sent you to our king with presents or -empty-handed?" - -_Ans._ "This is a question which I am not permitted to answer." - -_Priest._ "Is your visit here friendly?" - -_Ans._ "We have come here with the most friendly motives." - -He laughed and said--"A ship-of-war come with friendly motives!" - -Here the conversation ended; he said he would return to the prefect who -sent him. The priest's age was probably about sixty-five. He said he -was educated at the college of Jadent. He was attended by six persons. - -_January ninth._ Going on shore to-day, Mr. Morrison was informed that -two deputies had left, the same evening they received the letter for -the king, and that the old head-man of the town, who first came on -board, was under arrest, for not having been sufficiently alert in -reporting the ship's arrival. In reply to a question concerning the -priest who was on board yesterday, he was informed that he had been -sent by the governor of the province. He was informed, also, that two -or three Chinese junks, from Hainan, visit this port annually. - -Some anxiety, too, was shown, to prevent any one walking beyond the -beach. The market-time was found to commence between two and three -o'clock, and to end about sunset. - -_January fourteenth._ Mr. Morrison went on shore to make inquiries -respecting the trade, &c., of the place, from the principal of the two -Chinese interpreters who had been on board on the sixth and following -days; and who had since been employed as comprador for the ship. On -most points this Chinese appeared ignorant; a little information was, -however, obtained from him. - -[Sidenote: COMMERCE OF VUNG-LAM.] - -He stated that from one to three Chinese junks, annually visit -Vung-lam, about the month of January. They come from Hainan, and -import, almost solely, tea and paper. The former, if of good quality, -sells for two _kwan_ (or about eighty cents) a catty, if inferior, for -about half that price. They take back fah-sang, or ground-nut oil, -manure, and a few small articles. The oil costs about twenty-five kwan -a pecul. Cocoa-nut oil is made, but to a very small amount. It costs -about half a kwan a catty. The coasting-boats trade chiefly in rice, -which they import from the south, Ne-hats-ang. There seem to be from -twenty-five to forty of these boats in Vung-lam and the surrounding -anchorages, and not less than one hundred and fifty or two hundred -fishing-boats. The Chinese trade at Quin-hone, or Kwei-nyun, does not -exceed, he said, four or five junks annually. This is the capital of -the province of Pring-ding, on the north of Fooyan. The capital of -the province of Fooyan is not large. Its name is Tui-yan. It does -not possess much trade, and of that none is maritime, the city being -some miles from the coast. The truth of this statement seems somewhat -doubtful. The provinces of Fooyan and Pring-ding are under the same -dsong-dok or governor. - -_January sixteenth._ This evening the old head-man of Vung-lam made -his appearance again, somewhat altered in his dress, for the better, -and seemingly alarmed at his arrest and punishment, the cause of which -he professed to be ignorant of. He came to request that the paper, on -which the conversation held with him the first day had been written, -might be given up to him, which was accordingly done. - -He then expressed a desire that every one should remain on board, and -that none should go on shore, except to market; speaking, at the same -time, of "vexing and annoying the people." He was asked to explain, -and said the people were alarmed. This, he was told, their behaviour -contradicted; and no molestation had been given to any of them, while -some of the soldiers had been very troublesome to those who went on -shore; even urging and almost forcing Mr. Roberts to return to the -ship, when it was evident he was waiting for the arrival of a boat. - -Two instances of vexatious behaviour were particularly mentioned; to -which he replied, that he was ignorant of the circumstances, but would -inquire respecting them. He then left. - -[Sidenote: DEPUTIES.] - -_January seventeenth._ Increased difficulties having been met with in -the purchase of provisions required for the ship, Mr. Morrison went -on shore in the afternoon, to try the effect of remonstrance with the -old head-man. On reaching the shore, he met a large travelling retinue -coming into the town; and was informed that two deputies, Mandarins, -from Hue, had arrived, and were accompanied by the anchasze or judge -(the under-governor) of the province. He therefore returned to the -ship, whither he was shortly followed by the newly-arrived officers, in -a large galley, rowed by thirty-two soldiers, wearing red, lacquered, -peaked caps, with very ordinary waist clothes. The boat was about sixty -feet in length and twelve in breadth, and built most substantially and -neatly. She was decked with loose plank, a small cabin was erected -amid-ships, covered with palm-leaf. She had neither masts nor sails; -as the stern-post raked more than a whale-boat, she would not readily -answer her helm; a man was therefore placed at each bow with a -broad-bladed paddle, to assist her steering. The men rowed in unison, -standing up and facing the bows. An officer was placed amid-ships, -beating time by striking against two pieces of bamboo, which was -answered by the rowers by a sharp quick cry when their oars touched the -water. A small red square flag was hoisted on an ornamented staff at -the tafferel, and many long spears bristled along the quarters. She had -no projecting stem, a bluff bow, and was sharp aft. - -The deputies were dressed in their robes of ceremony, consisting of -very stout figured or plain satin dresses, of blue, open on the sides -at the bottom, the sleeves very wide; short satin trousers of yellow or -red; black crape turbans, and Chinese shoes; but the cotton underdress -was exceedingly dirty. They all wore long thin beards and mustaches. - -They had quick black eyes, with a lively expressive countenance. Three -most filthy servants attended them, each bearing boxes containing -areca-nuts, betel, chunam, and paper cigars; and they were continually -employed in scratching and picking off vermin. There were three -umbrella-bearers, some soldiers, &c., and two men dressed in long -blue woollen garments, bound with a wide strip of red cloth about -the neck and on the lower part of the sides, and of the same height -in front. They wore a low, red, peaked cap, secured to the head by -means of strings passing from the sides across the forehead and back -of the head, over a black turban--the cap only covered the head to -the top of the ears. These men bore ornamented ivory sticks, with red -silk tassels; but, contrary to the custom of those who had previously -visited us, these officers left the majority of their attendants -behind. The anchasze's office designated him as of the third rank; -while the two deputies, it was afterward ascertained, were of the -fifth rank. They were preceded by two interpreters, one of whom spoke -fluently the corrupt Portuguese dialect of Macao, and also a little -French; the other, having been for some years in a British frigate, had -a pretty good knowledge of the English, so long as the conversation -was confined to what was commonplace. The Portuguese interpreter was a -native Christian, named Miguel, and had acquired a knowledge, both of -speaking and reading, at Macao. The quondam man-of-war's man, was named -Joseph, when in the British service. - -From the nature of the conversation with the two deputies, it was -chiefly kept up in writing, notwithstanding the presence of the two -interpreters. The deputies commenced by stating, that they had been -commissioned by the "minister of commerce and navigation," at Hue, to -come, in company with a provincial officer, to inquire respecting -the ship, and attend to her wants. They wished to know, therefore, -if she stood in need of any thing. They were thanked, and informed -that she was not in want; at the same time, they were requested to -publish permission for the people to bring provisions alongside for -sale. They replied that they would do so. They then inquired to what -country the ship belonged, and produced a large sheet, containing -representations of every known national flag, with the names of the -countries attached, in French and in Chinese characters. The flag of -the United States was pointed out to them, and they were informed that -the ship was a man-of-war. They then put some complimentary questions, -respecting the health of our "king," and of the individuals on board, -&c., which were answered and reciprocated. They had long, they said, -heard of the country, as a good and happy one; and were now rejoiced -at the meeting. They inquired the purpose of our coming, a species of -question which every new comer repeated, as though ignorant of any -previous intercourse with the officers of government. The necessary -answer being given, they were asked respecting the letter from the -envoy to the king, whether it had reached the capital before they left. -They replied it had; but the address on the cover was erroneous; and -therefore the minister of commerce and navigation, (whom they afterward -stated to be the chief minister,) could not venture to hand it to the -king. The country, they said, is not now called Annam, as formerly, -but Wietman, (in Mandarin dialect, Yuenan;) and it is ruled, not by -a king, (wang,) but by an emperor, (hwang-te.)[A] They said, also, -that they had received orders to pay particular attention, and examine -every thing, so as to prevent any farther miscarriage or delay in the -business of the mission. It was explained to them, that the errors -they mentioned did not arise from any disrespect towards the king, -(or emperor,) but from the ignorance of their forms, which want of -intercourse occasioned. They were asked to point out in what manner the -address should be altered, and replied, that it would be preferable to -address a letter to the minister of commerce and navigation, informing -him of the ship's arrival and object of coming; and requesting him -to state the same to the king. They desired to be allowed to see the -letter, in order to prevent the admission of "interdicted words," -that is, expressions which, according to the Chinese punctilios of -writing, are considered inadmissible in official correspondence with -the higher ranks of officers. The letter to the king was then returned, -at the desire of the envoy; and the deputies expressed a wish to know -the contents of the President's letter, as well as the particular and -specific object of the mission. They were informed that the President's -letter was an introduction of the envoy to the king, and that the envoy -was prepared to negotiate respecting the particular objects of this -mission, after his arrival at Hue; but that the one general object, a -treaty of friendly intercourse, was inclusive of all other objects. -This answer was far from being satisfactory, and they repeatedly -returned to the same point, till, finding they could obtain no other -reply, they at length desisted. Being now requested to give an explicit -address for the letter to be written to the minister, they drew a short -letter to the following effect:-- - -[A] Yet the prince, who assumes this latter title, is said to have -received investiture from China, as a tributary king. - -[Sidenote: ENVOY'S LETTER.] - -"Edmund Roberts, envoy from the United States of America, desires to -state to your excellency, that he has received the commands of his -president, deputing him, a petty officer,[A] to bring a public letter -to this effect: 'I have long regarded the fame of your kingdoms with -a desire for friendly intercourse; but I have not previously had an -opportunity for obtaining it. I now entreat earnestly for a friendly -intercourse. Beyond this, there is no other point I desire.' - -[A] This is an expression used by inferior officers, in corresponding -with superiors, when referring to themselves. - -"The said envoy presumes to make this statement, praying you to report -it to the emperor, that having glanced thereat, he may happily allow -him to repair speedily to the capital, and respectfully present the -letter," &c. - -The tone of this letter is extremely objectionable, for, besides the -servileness of particular expressions, the general language is that -of an inferior, (the same idea being often expressed in Chinese by -different words, according to the respective ranks of the writer, -and the person he addresses;) the letter was therefore immediately -rejected; and some of the most offensive expressions, such as "petty -officer" and "earnest entreaty," were pointed out and animadverted on. -With the effrontery of falsehood common among the Chinese, they denied -that the expressions were those of an inferior; but truth does not -form a part of their creed. They were then informed that a letter would -be written by the envoy the next day, and that the expressions should -be respectful, but not mean or servile. They repeated their desire -to see the letter before it was closed, in order to expunge improper -words; and insisted on the necessity of their so doing. They were told, -that they might see the letter; but that no material corrections could -be made at their suggestions, after a fair copy of the letter had been -prepared. After some further conversation and dispute concerning points -of small import, they returned to the shore, at about eleven o'clock -in the afternoon. The old judge had left early in the evening, having -become seasick. - -_January eighteenth._ This morning, the deputies came on board by -appointment, to receive the letter from the envoy to the minister. -They were again accompanied by the judge, who had recovered from his -seasickness. Some refreshments were brought, consisting of a bullock, -a hog, a few poultry, some rice and wine, which were presented to the -envoy and captain, with felicitations on their arrival. - -There being some doubt whether the minister of commerce and navigation -was the chief minister of state, (although they had asserted he was,) -the address of the chief minister was now asked. Before they answered -this question, they wished to see the letter; but this being refused, -they eventually gave an address the same as yesterday, viz.: "To the -minister of commerce and navigation of Cochin-China." This address -was therefore inserted without alteration in the Chinese copy of the -letter. In the English, it was altered to "the minister for foreign -affairs, commerce and navigation;" he being the same minister called by -Mr. Crawford, the "Mandarin of strangers." The letter was then shown -to them, and after a few trivial alterations of single words in the -Chinese translation, which were acceded to, they expressed themselves -satisfied; it was therefore sealed, and delivered to them to forward. -The following is a copy:-- - - "To the minister for foreign affairs, commerce and navigation, - Hue:-- - - "Edmund Roberts, special envoy from the United States of America, - desires to inform your excellency that Andrew Jackson, the - president of the United States, wishing to open a friendly - intercourse with the emperor of Cochin-China, has sent the United - States' ship-of-war Peacock, commanded by Captain David Geisinger, - to his majesty's dominions. - - "And the president of the said United States of America has deputed - me his special envoy to his majesty's court, intrusting me with - a letter to his majesty; and has clothed me with full powers to - treat, on behalf of the president of the United States, for the - important objects which he has in view. I therefore request your - excellency to state this to his majesty; and hope that an interview - will be granted with the least possible loss of time. - - "It was the intention of the commander of the said United States' - ship-of-war to have entered the bay of Turan; but having been - driven from thence, after repeated attempts, by adverse winds - and currents, he has been compelled at length to enter this - port of Vung-lam. As contrary winds and currents still prevail, - it is rendered impossible for him to proceed to Turan bay. The - undersigned therefore awaits his majesty's answer here. - - "Signed and sealed on board the United States' ship Peacock, in - Vung-lam roads, province of Fooyan, Cochin-China, the eighteenth - day of January, A. D., 1833, and of the Independence of the United - States, the fifty-seventh. - - EDMUND ROBERTS." - -A little general conversation ensued, at the conclusion of this -business; they having promised that an answer should be received in -seven or eight days. - -They asked several questions respecting America and Europe, for -instance, what is the meaning of "the fifty-seventh year of -independence?"--"Is England now at peace with France?"--"Has France -recovered peace since the last revolution? and where is the dethroned -king living?"--"Is America at war with any country?" &c. These and -other questions of a similar nature having been answered, they took -their leave, inviting Mr. Roberts, Captain Geisinger, and the other -gentlemen on board, to call on them. They were at the same time invited -to visit the ship whenever they wished. - -_January nineteenth._ Three of the gentlemen went on shore, about noon, -to visit the deputies, taking an excuse for Mr. Roberts and Captain -Geisinger. They were found residing in a neat little brick house, -situated in a small garden of areca and betel plants; the latter being -generally twined round the smooth round trunk of the areca-tree. The -house is the most respectable in the place, and appears to be a private -residence hired for the occasion. The conversation was for the most -part common-place. The judge, they informed us, had returned to the -capital of the province, to attend to the duties of his office. - -A little information was obtained respecting provisions, firewood, -and the nature of their mission to Hue. On the latter subject, they -confirmed for the most part, the account previously obtained from the -two first deputies, and insisted on making a present of some fire wood, -saying they would send a person next day to show where it could be cut. -They were requested to give permission to shoot and ride, but declined -doing either. Shooting, they said, is prohibited by law. During the -conversation, they stated, that there is an American named _Leemesay_ -(probably Lindsay) engaged as a pilot on board one of their ships. -This is an Englishman who finds it more convenient to pass among these -people as American than as English. On leaving, the deputies said -they would call on board the following day. A present of firewood was -brought along-side in the evening. - -_January twentieth._ This morning, another present of firewood came -off, and with it the Portuguese interpreter Miguel. He brought a note -in French, addressed to the younger M. Vanier, whose mother being -Cochin-Chinese, he remains in the country, although his father has -returned to France. M. Vanier is now employed as a pilot, and is about -to go to the straits of Malacca, with a cargo of sugar from Turan. He -will be joined by a vessel from Ahiatrang, laden with rice, and piloted -by Leemesay, (or Lindsay,) the American whom the deputies spoke of -yesterday. Miguel informed us that the Roman Catholics are persecuted -under the present religion; and that the few French, Spanish, and -Italian priests, who are living in the country, are obliged to conceal -themselves. - -Pere Jacard, a Frenchman, is confined wholly to the precincts of the -palace, where he is employed in the care of the king's European books, -charts, mathematical instruments, &c. It is difficult for foreigners -(excepting Chinese) to gain admission; legal permission must be -obtained from the chief officers of the provincial government, in that -part of the country, where admission is sought. - -About noon, the deputies made their appearance. The conversation was -short and common-place. They requested to be shown the ship's voyage, -on a chart, and were curious to know why China was visited before -coming to Cochin-China, it being more to the north. They desired to -be shown about the ship, and then took their leave promising to send -their barge (a large boat, manned with thirty oars) to cut and bring -off firewood, the next morning. As they spoke of tigers, they were told -that guns must be taken as a defence; and they at length gave their -consent to shooting. As they left, they particularly invited the envoy -and Captain Geisinger to visit them the following day. Their invitation -was accepted, being desirous of not giving offence. - -_January twenty-first._ The weather being unfavourable, an excuse was -sent, deferring the visit until better weather. - -[Sidenote: YUEN AND LE.] - -_January twenty-third._ Notwithstanding the weather continued -unfavourable and rainy, another visit was received this morning from -the two deputies, whose names were now found to be Yuen and Le. They -asked numerous questions respecting Europe and America, seeming -particularly desirous to know the affairs of England, and the nature -of the United Slates government. In answer to their inquiries about -the President, they were informed that he is elected by the people, -once in four years. They asked also a few questions respecting American -productions, particularly ginseng, of which they knew something; they -repeated their inquiries as to the object of visiting Canton, and -the time spent there, and whether there were any presents from the -president, &c. - -In reply to questions put to them, they stated, that the tribunals -and officers at court, and the titles of their ministers and other -officers, are the same as in China; but they evaded telling the names -of any of the ministers, saying, that they could not remember them all. -They declined some trifles offered to them, on the plea that they dare -not receive any presents. They then repeated their invitation to Mr. -Roberts and Captain Geisinger, to visit them on shore, and promised -assistance in procuring provisions. They urged, that the ports were -already open to trade, and therefore the mission unnecessary. They were -told in reply that the regulations of trade were not known, and the -charges on ships were so high, it was found impossible to trade--that -the mission was not destined to apply to _them_ but to the court; and -that whatever might be the state of the case, speedy measures should -have been taken to enable the mission to proceed to Hue. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV. - - PRESENT OF A FEAST TO THE EMBASSY--DESCRIPTION OF - ARRANGEMENT--DEPUTIES FROM HUE--EXTRAORDINARY DEMANDS--REFUSAL - TO FORWARD DESPATCHES TO THE EMPEROR--LETTER OF THE ENVOY TO - THE MINISTER OF COMMERCE--PRESIDENT'S LETTER--UNCONDITIONAL - REQUIREMENTS OF THE DEPUTIES. - - -On this morning, January twenty-fourth, Captain G. and myself visited -the deputies: their residence was somewhat improved, since the previous -visit paid to them; considering the filthy habits of the people, it -was neat and comfortable. Our conversation was short and common-place. -The deputies informed us that they had been to Bengal, a year or two -before, and also to Manila. - -_January twenty-sixth._ One of the officers, who had come from the -capital of the province on our first arrival, appeared again to-day, -accompanied by another whom we had not before seen, and the two -interpreters, bringing complimentary messages to the envoy, and -refreshments, which, they said, were sent by order of the king. They -consisted of a feast, (comprising fifty-one dishes,) two bullocks, four -dogs, five sacks of rice, five jars of native liquor, thirty ducks, -thirty fowls, eggs, and a variety of fruits. - -As it would have given offence, and impeded, if not wholly destroyed -the object of the mission, to have refused the present, it was -immediately accepted with thanks; and the officers, who brought it off, -were informed, that a salute of thirteen guns would be fired in honour -of the king, as the present was said to have come from him. The feast -was brought on the board in handsomely varnished and gilded cases; to -all outward appearance, it was very neat and cleanly; but we could -not divest ourselves of the idea, that it was cooked in the uncleanly -vessels we had seen on shore, and that it had come in contact with -the filthy paws, dirty nails, and heads filled with vermin, which we -had seen on shore: we, therefore, barely tasted of one article, the -confectionary. A complimentary toast was drunk to the emperor, in a -glass of their favourite rice wine. - -The mandarin, who came to present the feast, was dressed in a robe of -ceremony, of very stout, light blue, flowered silk. He was invited to -partake of the feast, but politely excused himself, saying, "I dare -not partake of a feast presented by the emperor." He was therefore -furnished with other refreshments. - -The feast was arranged in the cabin, by a servant sent with it, -assisted by several others: it was served up in China, and consisted of -fifty-one articles, (exclusive of fruits,) arranged in the following -order: At the head was placed an entire tortoise, jellied on the -outside, and filled with rice, &c.; then followed a leg of fresh boiled -pork; two roasted ducks; one roasted fowl; a deep saucer of roasted -pork, cut in square pieces; and three stewed pigeons in a bowl, with -sauce. The preceding seven articles were arranged from the head to -the foot of the table, in the centre, and were flanked with seventeen -bowls, each containing a different article. One contained stewed eels, -whether of the hedge or ditch, I am not able to determine; another was -filled with stewed mullet. One had within it a piece of stewed fish, -with sauce; a fourth held fish pickle, or the essence of balachang, -emitting a most unsavoury smell. Seven of the bowls were covered with -yellow paper, and ten with red: they contained chow-chow, or mixed -meats, deers' sinews--which latter were particularly recommended. - -The name and contents of each article were inscribed in Chinese -characters, on its cover. The remaining portion of the dishes, -consisted of two bowls of boiled ducks' eggs, and one of fowls; one of -boiled crabs; three of red, yellow, and white rice; two of sausages; -three of rice pilau; one of stewed fowl; one of shrimps; one of bitter -cucumbers; two of sponge-cake; and the rest were forced-meat pasties -and confectionary. They were cooked with ground-nut oil, or the fat -of fresh pork; and were, generally, very insipid, and totally without -seasoning. - -These refreshments had been sent in consequence of the receipt, at Hue, -of the envoy's letter to the minister, and the officers said that a -reply might be expected in two or three days, at farthest. - -In the afternoon, the deputies' barge came alongside, and the -interpreters said there were two mandarins on board: but, seeing that -the ship rolled very much, they would defer the visit until the next -morning. - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL FROM HUE.] - -This morning, January the twenty-seventh, the two interpreters -appeared, to say, that two officers had arrived from Hue, but that -the vessel was so unsteady they were afraid to come on board, lest -seasickness should prevent them from fulfilling, to the full extent, -their mission. They, therefore, requested Mr. Roberts to visit, and to -converse with them on shore. - -This attempt to make the envoy wait on them, could not, they were told, -be complied with; but Mr. Morrison would go on shore, if they desired -it, to ascertain their business. - -Mr. M. accordingly went on shore, immediately after breakfast, and -found the two former deputies, accompanied by two others, said to be of -higher rank, who were far less prepossessing in their appearance, and -much ruder in their manners. - -The following conversation took place with them:-- - -_Mr. M._ "Is there any letter from Hue?" - -_Deputies._ "No; we two officers have been deputed by the minister to -come here." - -_Mr. M._ "Will there be any letter?" - -_Dep._ "No; we are sent in place of a letter." - -_Mr. M._ "What message do you bring from Hue?" - -_Dep._ "The minister of commerce and navigation has received the letter -sent by the envoy; the contents being respectful and reasonable, he -gave directions to the local officers to prepare a feast for the -envoy. With regard to shooting, although it is contrary to the laws, -permission is granted, in the present instance, for a few to shoot at a -time, in consideration that you know how to regard the laws." - -_Mr. M._ "Shooting is not the business on which the envoy has come -here. That is a trivial matter, not worth mentioning again. The envoy -has come on important national business, with a letter for the emperor: -he wishes to know what message you have from the emperor." - -_Dep._ "Though the shooting is a trivial matter, we have mentioned -it, because you formerly made a request on the subject. As to the -business of the letter, we require to converse respecting it with the -official gentlemen:" meaning the envoy and those who they supposed were -associated with him; for the Cochin-Chinese, like the Chinese, seldom -send officers singly on any special business. - -_Mr. M._ "It would be contrary to all etiquette, for the envoy to come -on shore, to converse with you on this subject. If you have any thing -to communicate, tell it to me, or (which would be better) go on board -and tell it." - -_Dep._ "We like your regard for etiquette, and have now come with the -wish to conduct your business according to etiquette, and to conclude -it speedily. Yesterday we were prevented going on board by the wind: as -you have now come, we will enter on the business with you at once. - -"The minister of commerce and navigation desires us to communicate -to the envoy the necessity of his having a copy and a translation of -the president's letter to lay before the emperor; also to state, that -without full and complete information, the minister dare not report -to his majesty. Having come so great a distance, you are doubtless -anxious for the speedy conclusion of the business of your mission. It -is on this account we have been sent; for our laws are strict, and -demand implicit obedience: therefore, we are directed to show you how -to conform to them. What ought now to be done, is to give a copy and -translation of the President's letter. - -"Further, in the letter from the envoy, mention is made of the -important objects which the President has in view. Without knowing what -these important objects are, the minister can make no report to the -emperor. Were he to do so, and the emperor should make any particular -inquiries of him, respecting the mission, he would be unable to reply. -If you will give a copy of the letter, and information with regard to -these objects, four or five days will be sufficient to come to some -determination respecting your mission." - -_Mr. M._ "Letters between the rulers of nations ought not to be -submitted to the inspection of their ministers and people, but must -first be delivered to the rulers to whom they are addressed. Of the -President's letter, there is both an original and a translation; which -will be delivered, together, to the emperor, after the envoy has -reached the capital." - -_Dep._ "If you will allow us to see a copy of the translation, your -business may then be advanced. - -"In the intercourse of China with France, England, &c., copies of their -letters must first be shown to the minister or his deputies, before -they can make any report to the emperor. Otherwise, being ignorant of -the contents of the letter, they dare not report." - -_Mr. M._ "We know not the etiquette of China, but that of Europe, -and all the nations of the west. Letters are first presented to the -rulers, to whom they are addressed. Copies are not first shown to their -ministers." - -_Dep._ "France and England have sent envoys here, who did not refuse to -show copies of the letters which they brought." - -_Mr. M._ "I have heard that the English envoy, who complied with this -demand, had no audience." - -_Dep._ "The governor-general (Ta-ping-t'how, great military headman) -of Bengal, sent an envoy here, with a letter to the minister, and he -concluded the business satisfactorily. Would we treat the English well -and you ill?" - -_Mr. M._ "You are, indeed, putting difficulties in the way. It has -never been customary with us to show copies of letters previously to -presenting the originals." - -_Dep._ "We are all the servants of our respective rulers, and we -desire, equally with you, to bring your business to a satisfactory -conclusion. We request you to think what object we can have in raising -difficulties?" - -[Sidenote: DIPLOMATIC DELAYS.] - -Not being able to come to any conclusion on this point, they were asked -if they had any thing else to say, when they pointed to what they had -before written, respecting the important objects which the President -had in view. They then wrote again: "You should return to the ship, and -get the directions of the envoy and captain, on these two important -points, viz.:-- - -"1st. To show a copy of the President's letter. - -"2d. To state clearly the particular objects of the mission. In the -evening come again, and inform us of the result." - -"Our country wishes to receive and treat you in a liberal manner. -France and England did not refuse to show copies of their letters. -Why do you? We have been sent by the minister with these orders, and -wish you to act in accordance with the advice we have now given. Your -business will then be soon finished, which will afford the minister -pleasure also." - -_Mr. M._ "If these are the orders you have received, I fear we must -soon leave." - -_Dep._ "Why do you say so? Our endeavour is to bring your business to a -speedy conclusion. All envoys must desire to bring their business to a -satisfactory conclusion. We wish to aid you in doing so. Of what use is -it to talk of returning? What object will be effected if you do so?" - -_Mr. M._ "If such points are insisted upon, we must consider that the -emperor desires no intercourse with our country; in which case there is -nothing left for us but to return." - -This view of the matter was strongly objected to by the deputies, whom -Mr. Morrison left with an understanding that he would probably visit -them again in the afternoon. - -In the afternoon, accordingly, Mr. Morrison, having received farther -instructions, went on shore and recommenced the conversation, saying:-- - -"I have now received directions from the envoy to tell you, that what -you insisted upon this morning, cannot be complied with; for it would -be disallowed by our government. The letter is sealed, and cannot now -be opened; but must either be carried by the envoy to the capital, or -must be carried back, and the cause stated to the President." - -The deputies now inquired if there were _really_ a translation of the -President's letter, in a manner which implied distrust and unbelief -of what they had been told. Being assured that a translation _really_ -existed, they returned to their former point, desiring a copy--not, -however, of the translation, but of the general scope of it. Compliance -with this request was refused, unless they could show directions to -that effect from the emperor. - -_Dep._ "If there is, indeed, a Chinese translation, it is requisite to -show a copy of it, before a report can be made to, or an order received -from, the emperor. Being foreigners, how can you refuse to have your -business conducted by us, who are the appointed deputies? or how can -you insist on going at once to the capital to present the letter -personally?" - -_Mr. M._ "Without seeing an order from the emperor, the letter cannot -be shown to any one; nor can the envoy stay here much longer. In a few -days, either he must repair to the capital, or the ship must leave this -port and go to sea. Two of you have been already informed of this, -when you received the envoy's letter to the minister. As we have been -detained here nearly a month, without any thing having been done, it is -now repeated to you all." - -_Dep._ "This delay is owing to your own mismanagement, in not having -given a translation of the President's letter, stating the objects -of the mission. It is in consequence of this mismanagement, that the -minister has been unable to state your arrival and object to the -emperor. Hence the delay, which has in no way arisen from any want -of kind reception on the minister's part, or of attention on ours. -Our laws are very strict, and the forms required by our etiquette, -numerous. Were we to offend against either, the offence would not be -considered slight. We have now been sent to see that every thing be -done according to etiquette and law, and this requisition must, indeed, -be acceded to, before you can obtain permission to proceed to Hue." - -_Mr. M._ "A letter between the sovereigns of two nations, cannot be -carelessly and inconsiderately shown to any or every one. As to the -letter and the objects of the mission, should the envoy go to Hue, -the former can then be presented, and the negotiation of the business -entered upon. But, should the envoy not go to Hue, it will be needless -to speak of either." - -_Dep._ "We, the officers specially deputed by the minister alone, -require to see the letter. How can it be careless or inconsiderate -to show it to us? If every thing is left unexplained, then, although -you should go to the capital, the minister would still have to depute -officers to obtain a clear knowledge of your business, before he could -make any report to the emperor!" - -_Mr. M._ "Was the envoy's letter to the minister received?" - -_Dep._ "It was; but the expression, 'important objects,' was not -explained, nor was there a translation of the President's letter; -hence, he could not venture to make any report. He has, therefore, sent -us to repeat these inquiries; that, after he has learned the result -from us, he may report to the emperor." - -_Mr. M._ "If the envoy were at the capital, he would then make all -requisite explanations to the minister. If he cannot go to the capital -without making such explanations to you, the ship will have to go to -sea. - -"Is the minister of commerce the same as the minister of elephants? - -"If he received the letter, why is there no written answer from him?" - -_Dep._ "The minister of commerce is a great minister, who directs the -affairs of all foreign vessels that come here. In the letter sent to -him, there was much that was not explained. Therefore, we have been -sent to arrange and explain every thing; after which he will be able to -report. Of what use would it be to give any previous written reply?" - -_Mr. M._ "You had better make a speedy report of to-day's conversation; -for if the envoy does not shortly obtain leave to go to Hue, he will be -necessitated to leave. The envoy is not likely to retract what he says." - -_Dep._ "Your ship has crossed a wide sea to bring an envoy from your -country; and the minister has acted towards you according to his -majesty's gracious wishes of tenderness towards foreigners. He wishes -to conclude your business speedily and satisfactorily for you; but you -also must act according to our laws and etiquette: then you will not -fail in your object. Return, and tell the two gentlemen (meaning Mr. R. -and Capt. G.) that they may think maturely on the subject; to-morrow we -will visit the ship." - -_Mr. M._ "The subject has been already fully thought on; I request you -to think it over once more." - -They then again insisted on the necessity of every thing being fully -explained, before another step could be taken; and, addressing Mr. -Morrison personally, they said: "As you have read Chinese literature, -you are acquainted with our forms of etiquette, and what is right -and proper. Explain these to the envoy, that he may follow them; the -success of the mission will then be owing to your efforts; whereas, by -refusing to do so, the blame of failure will rest entirely on you." - -To this absurd language no reply was returned. They were told, that the -envoy came with a desire to open a friendly intercourse, and would be -sorry to return without having effected that object: but that he would -not act contrary to the rules of his own country; and that he thought, -if the emperor were informed of the circumstances, he would not desire -any previous copy of the letter to be given. The conversation then -ended, the deputies refusing to answer questions on any other subjects. - -_January twenty-eighth._ This morning, early, the four deputies came -on board, as they had yesterday stated their intention of doing. The -conversation was commenced by asking the object of their visit, as -they had yesterday been told, that the envoy could not give up the -President's letter, nor enter into any further particulars respecting -the objects of the mission. They were at the same time told not to -speak of "two gentlemen," as the business of the mission rested wholly -with the envoy. - -_Dep._ "The letter which the envoy sent to the minister, spoke of -very important objects, but did not explain what those objects were; -therefore, the minister being unable to speak to the emperor, has sent -us to inquire particularly; that when we have informed him of the -objects, he may make his report, and conclude the business of your -mission speedily." - -_The Envoy._ "Two of your number have already asked repeated questions -on this subject, and have been as often told, that the subject cannot -be treated of before the mission proceeds to Hue. As this has been -often told you, why do you now delay the mission with repetitions of -the same questions? The minister is fully aware that my mission is -for the purpose of opening a friendly intercourse between the two -countries. Why, then, does he not make report thereof to the emperor? -and why is there no order from the emperor, either permitting me to go -to Hue, or directing my return? This line of conduct certainly appears -uncivil; I must, therefore, conclude that the emperor is unwilling to -admit our intercourse. If you have any thing further to speak of, say -it; but do not go over yesterday's conversation again." - -_Dep._ "Our country wishes to receive and treat you with liberality; -but there is an appearance of secrecy in the letter to the minister, -which requires explanation. Our conduct is in accordance with true -politeness. How say you we are uncivil?" - -_Envoy._ "If, when the ship arrived, the minister of commerce had -immediately reported to the emperor the arrival of a United States' -vessel, with a special envoy on board, bearing a letter from the -President to the emperor, and had requested leave for the mission to -proceed forthwith to the capital, such conduct would have been open, -polite, and becoming. But to profess that he dare not report to the -emperor, and detain the mission here for a long period, refusing to -let it proceed at once to the capital, is, indeed, extremely rude." - -_Dep._ "Hitherto all envoys bringing letters here, from whatever -country, have stated their contents and the objects of their mission, -through officers deputed, like us, to receive such information. This -has always been necessary before a report could be made. We have -heard of you as a just, polite, and well-demeaned nation; and the -minister, when he heard of your arrival, was much pleased, and desirous -of bringing your business to a satisfactory conclusion, in order to -establish a friendly intercourse with you. [They were here told that -the minister was required to make no such request.] What answer would -he be able to give, should the emperor inquire about particulars?" - -Here they were pointed to Mr. Crawford's account of his mission to -Siam and Cochin-China, page 269; where he received what amounted -to a reprimand, for having shown to the governor of Saigon the -governor-general's letter, when the minister of elephants told him: "It -is his majesty's wish, when the governor-general writes again, that -the letter may be sealed, for this is the custom of Cochin-China." And -again, "It is not agreeable to the customs of the country, that any -should inspect letters addressed to his majesty, before they reach his -own presence." - -They did not appear, or choose not to appear, acquainted with the -circumstances of Mr. Crawford's mission, and did not want, they said, -the original letter, but a translation. - -_Envoy._ "If I return, and report to the President that, when I came -here to propose a friendly intercourse between our countries, the -ministers of Cochin-China refused to report my arrival to the emperor; -took upon themselves to treat me rudely, and, after having detained -me a whole month, forced me to leave, without obtaining admission to -the capital; when this is told, what, think you, will be the world's -opinion of your country? Its opinion will be, that you are an extremely -rude nation. If permission be not soon given for me to proceed to the -capital, I shall be necessitated to leave; for within the present year -I have to go to eight or nine other places." - -The latter part of this reply was intended to remove an error they -seemed to have fallen into, in supposing that the ship had come from -the United States, solely to negotiate a treaty with Cochin-China. - -_Dep._ "Every thing in our country must be done according to etiquette. -Hitherto all countries, whether far or near, have paid regard to this -rule. The etiquette to be observed by ministers of government, is to -report no business, until they have obtained complete knowledge of it. -We have been desirous to effect for you the objects of your mission, -but you have been obstinate in your determinations. Pray, what would -you think of an envoy from any other country coming here, and refusing -to have any thing done through the medium of officers deputed, like us, -for the purpose of arranging the business of his mission, and insisting -on immediate admission to the emperor's presence? If the circumstances -be told to all the world, the right and wrong will then be known. Our -country has always received other nations liberally, without deriving -any advantage from them. - -"Before," they continued, "you said there was no translation of the -President's letter; now you say there is:--before, you said the vessel -was going to no other place; now you say she is going to nine other -places. What are we to understand by this?" - -As not the slightest hint had been given to favour either of these -assertions, they were immediately contradicted. They had never been -told, either that the President's letter was not translated, or that -the envoy had business in Cochin-China alone. - -They now stated they did not want the letter opened; they only -required to know what was desired; whether land to build factories on, -privileges of trade, or what? - -_Envoy._ "No favours or privileges are asked for. Our government does -not build factories. Friendly intercourse alone is desired." - -_Dep._ "Is commerce desired?" - -_Envoy._ "That is necessarily included in friendly intercourse between -the two countries; which will be for the advantage, not of one, but of -both." - -_Dep._ "You have now come over an extensive ocean as an envoy. The -minister has acted according to the emperor's gracious wishes of -tenderness towards foreigners. He wishes to conclude your affairs -happily and satisfactorily; but you persist and determine, of your own -accord, to return unsuccessful. Say not that you were not received -well and liberally. The fault lies with you!" - -_Envoy._ "As you refuse our intercourse, and I cannot obtain permission -to go to Hue, I must leave shortly. The fault lies not with me, but in -the minister's uncivil treatment. On my return, I shall have to report, -that the minister had the presumption to take the business of the -mission into his own hands, without making any report to the emperor. -How call you such conduct '_liberal treatment_?'" - -_Dep._ "We too have been sent to bring the business of your mission to -a determinate point; but your obstinacy leaves us at a loss what to do. -We will return in a day or two to the capital, and make a report of the -circumstances." - -This was said by the two who had arrived on the twenty-sixth. - -In reply, they were told that the envoy could have nothing to do with -their movements; that when quite ready he would leave; but that, when -he did so, he would write a protest against the manner in which he had -been treated, and would send a copy of such protest to the emperor, and -copies to other princes also. At first, not seeming to understand what -was meant, they desired that it should be sent to the minister instead -of the emperor; but this, they were told, was out of the question. - -_January twenty-ninth._ Some gentlemen who had been on shore in the -course of yesterday, having been asked when the ship would sail, Mr. -Morrison visited the deputies this morning, with the following written -communication:-- - - "I hear that you inquired last evening when our ship would sail. I - am directed by the envoy to tell you, that if, within six days, the - imperial permission be not received for the mission to go to Hue, - the vessel will then sail. - - "The envoy does not act inconsiderately, as deeming this an affair - of a trivial nature: but he is necessitated to leave, because the - business confided to him, in other places, will not admit of a long - delay. - - "Nor does he consider it a thing of small import, that the minister - of commerce, &c., refuses to report his arrival to the emperor, or - to afford him the means of presenting the letter." - -In reply, the two deputies who had first arrived, (for the other two, -though not yet on their way for Hue, did not appear,) returned to their -former position, that they were desirous of bringing the business to -an amicable and satisfactory conclusion, but were prevented by the -obstinacy of the envoy. If a translation of the President's letter, and -a complete statement of the objects of the mission, were delivered to -them, then some conclusion might be come to. - -They were told it was useless talking thus, as the determination of -the envoy had already been communicated to them. Should the envoy go -to Hue, on his arrival there, the minister might receive a copy of the -President's letter, and what explanations he might desire as to the -objects of the mission. Similar conversation was kept up for a few -minutes, during which the deputies received a written paper from the -other two, who were within. They then wrote, that "the President, being -elected and promoted by the people, and not possessing the actual title -of king, it behooved him to write in a manner properly decorous and -respectful; on which account it was requisite for the translation to be -examined, in order to expunge improper words." - -In reply to this insulting language, they were told that the President -was inferior to no king or emperor, and were then left. - -[Sidenote: DEPUTIES' FALSEHOODS.] - -In consequence of the insult thus offered to the President, Mr. -Morrison again went on shore in the afternoon, in company with Mr. -Fowler, for the purpose either of obtaining an apology, or of handing -the deputies, for the information of the minister, a protest from the -envoy against the adoption of such language. They now withdrew what -they had said in the morning; and, having previously torn up the paper -on which they had written, they denied that they had said what was -attributed to them. "The other day," said they, "you told us that your -President is elected by the people; we asked, therefore, whether he -was really a king or not: and letters, we said, should be humble and -decorous." - -Had there been any doubt (which there was not) of the real sense of -what they said in the morning, the total incoherency of what they -now advanced would afford strong presumption against its truth; for -who could write in one sentence, the question, "Whether or not the -President is a real king;" and the assertion that "letters should be -humble and decorous," with other than the insulting views attributed -to them in the morning? But, as they denied having spoken by command -of their master the minister, and wholly disclaimed any intention of -insult, the apology was thought sufficient, and the envoy's protest was -not handed to them. They were again told that, though the President -did not bear the title of king, yet he was equal to any king or -emperor, and was so acknowledged by all with whom the United States had -intercourse. - -This point being set to rest, a list of the refreshments, which had -been received from them at different times, was handed to them, with -a request that they would say whether it was correct or not. They -were then told, that if the business of the mission were to end -unsuccessfully, the refreshments they had sent could not be accepted as -presents, but must be paid for. This they strenuously resisted, saying, -repeatedly, that the things were of small value. "Nothing," they were -answered, "of the smallest value, could be accepted, if the mission -ended without going to Hue. Should the mission proceed thither, they -would be accepted as tokens of a friendly disposition between the two -countries; but otherwise, no friendly intercourse being established, -every thing must be paid for." - -As the feast, when brought on board, had been represented as coming -from the emperor, it was now asked how that could be the case, since -the emperor was not yet apprized of the vessel's arrival? The deputies -replied, that it was customary to present such refreshments to foreign -vessels on their arrival; therefore it was considered as coming from -the emperor, although prepared by the provincial officers, at the -direction of the minister. - -They were then asked what the minister's object was in thus delaying -the business of the mission, and refusing to report to the emperor. -They replied, as usual, that their wish was to expedite, not to retard -the business of the mission; which was hindered, they said, only by the -envoy's refusal to act according to their advice. It was argued, that -if any one had business with them, he would not stay to explain his -business to their servants, but would require to speak with themselves -at once. Arguments, however, proved useless. They either could or would -not comprehend them. The two deputies, who were returning to Hue, had -not left, but were to start the same evening. - -[Sidenote: ENVOY'S LETTER.] - -_January thirtieth._ The deputies appearing to act under specific -orders, from which they could not deviate in the least, the envoy now -addressed a letter to the minister of commerce, specifying the objects -of the mission, and enclosing a copy of the President's letter, with a -Chinese translation of it. The following are copies of the documents:-- - - _Letter from Edmund Roberts, Esq., special envoy from the United - States of America, to the Cochin-Chinese minister of foreign - affairs, commerce, &c._:-- - - "Edmund Roberts, special envoy from the United States of America, - desires to inform your excellency, that he wrote, on the eighteenth - of the present month, acquainting your excellency with the wish - entertained by the President of the United States to open a - friendly intercourse with the emperor of Cochin-China; and with - his consequent appointment of myself to be the bearer of a letter - which I am to present to his majesty; having, at the same time, - full powers to treat, on behalf of the President, for the important - objects which he has in view. - - "I have now the pleasure to enclose copies of the original, and a - translation in Chinese, of the President's letter to the emperor, - for your excellency's inspection. The important objects of the - President, mentioned in the letter, are solely to ascertain, if the - emperor is willing to admit the American commercial intercourse on - the same terms as those of the most favoured nations; or on what - conditions he will admit it, and into what ports. No exclusive - privileges are asked for. And the envoy is not charged with any - other matter or thing, excepting to establish a suitable commercial - treaty between the two nations. These are the only objects of the - mission. - - "Had your excellency sent a written answer, requesting the - above information, the envoy would have given these particulars - previously; but certain persons inquired the object of the vessel's - coming, and asked for a copy of the President's letter, to whom - this information could not be given, as they could show no document - or authority from your excellency. - - "The envoy has already been here some time, and will be unable to - delay much longer. He therefore requests your excellency to provide - the means for himself, and others who are to accompany him, to - proceed to Hue speedily. For unless, within seven days, permission - be received, from the emperor, to proceed thither at once, the - vessel must go to sea. - - "Signed and sealed on board the U. S. ship-of-war Peacock, in the - roadstead of Vung-lam, in the province of Fooyan, this thirtieth - day of January, A. D., 1833, and of independence, the fifty-seventh. - - (Signed,) - "EDMUND ROBERTS." - - "Andrew Jackson, President of the United States of America, to - his majesty the emperor of Cochin-China:-- - - "Great and good friend-- - - "This will be delivered to your majesty by Edmund Roberts, a - respectable citizen of these United States, who has been appointed - special agent, on the part of this government, to transact - important business with your majesty. I pray your majesty to - protect him in the exercise of the duties which are thus confided - to him, and to treat him with kindness and confidence; placing - entire reliance upon what he shall say to you in our behalf, - especially when he shall repeat the assurances of our perfect amity - and good will towards your majesty. I pray God to have you, great - and good friend, under his safe and holy keeping. - - "Written at the city of Washington, the twentieth day of January, - A. D. 1833, and in the fifty-sixth year of independence. - - "Your good and faithful friend, - - (Signed) - "ANDREW JACKSON." - - "By the President. - - (Signed) - "EDWARD LIVINGSTON, Sec'ry of State." - - "The foregoing is a true copy of the original now in my possession. - - (Signed) - "EDMUND ROBERTS." - -[Sidenote: INCREASING DEMANDS.] - -These documents being completed, the packet was sealed up, and taken on -shore by Mr. Morrison; but now a new and unexpected difficulty arose. -The letter (which, they were told, though addressed to the minister, -was intended to be seen by the emperor) must be opened, submitted to -their inspection, and corrected entirely according to their taste, ere -they would receive or forward it. - -This unheard-of and arrogant requisition was strongly objected to. -"What is the cause," they were asked, "of such behaviour? Here are -four officers of whose names and rank we are equally ignorant. (For -their rank they had evaded telling, when asked, and their names, -though told by two of them, were not suffered to be written down.) -These officers require full information, respecting the objects of -our mission, and refuse to forward our official letters. In no other -country, we have been to, is an envoy thus treated." - -With the deputies, however, nothing that could be said was of any -use. They acted apparently on specific and peremptory orders, and -evinced a total disregard for every thing but a complete concession -to all their demands. On the present occasion they refused to write -an answer to what was said to them. Through the interpreter they -repeated the same language they had before so often used, respecting -their own and the minister's anxiety to conclude the business of the -mission satisfactorily; the necessity of conforming to the customs and -etiquette of the country, and the obstinacy of the envoy, &c. - -"Were a letter," they were asked, "sent to you, would a copy be first -shown to your servants?" - -"No," they replied, "but the case is not parallel. Your envoy is like -one standing at the door of a house." - -"Admitting that, suppose me coming to the door of your house, on -business with you, should I have to inform your servants what my -business was before I could enter?" - -The quick little interpreter, Miguel, said that this was agreeable to -reason, a point which the deputies were less ready to admit. They could -not allow the comparison. "Such," said they, "are our laws. They must -be implicitly obeyed." - -"Had there been an imperial order," it was resumed, "or a written -answer from the minister, then the business of the mission might be -communicated to you; but how can it be communicated to persons of -whose names and rank we are ignorant? The objects of the mission have, -therefore, been stated in the letter, which it will be well for you to -forward. This obstinacy in requiring to know our objects is insulting." - -Mr. Morrison was now pressed to return to the ship, to receive the -envoy's permission for them to see the contents of the packet, and -correct the phraseology of the letters. Finding them determined not -to receive it as it was, he accordingly left, after having repeated -the necessity of paying for their presents, should their continual -opposition cause the failure of the mission. They appeared personally -desirous of conciliation, though their national vanity and prejudices -would not suffer them to see any thing absurd or improper in the -conduct which their orders obliged them to adopt. - -In the evening Mr. Morrison again went on shore, with Chinese copies of -the President's letter to the emperor, and the envoy's letter to the -minister. Having required that the crowd of attendants, who usually -stood round, listening to the conversation, should be dismissed, the -envoy's letter was shown to the deputies. They immediately proceeded -to criticise every word and sentence, making several alterations -and corrections, which, though of small importance, and generally -unobjectionable, occupied considerable time. During the conversation, -which the remarks, made on various parts of the letter, occasioned, -the interpreter Miguel, apparently of his own accord, though probably -prompted by his employers, remarked, that the President was equal to -a _king_; but that the emperor was superior to a king. The natural -inference, that the emperor of Cochin-China is superior to the -President of the United States, he left to be deduced by others. The -remark arose from an endeavour, on the part of the deputies, to have -the President's title placed lower than that of the emperor; not, they -would have it believed, from an idea of inequality, but on account of -the humbler style, which they insisted, the writing party must adopt -in speaking of themselves. The envoy, it was answered, had taken -that station, which courtesy to the person he addressed, required; -but to place the President lower than the emperor, was a point of a -different nature--a point which courtesy did not require, and which, -the President and emperor being in every respect equal in rank, could -never be complied with. Having at length concluded with the letter to -the minister, every correction which could be considered derogatory or -mean having been rejected, the deputies now desired to see a copy of -the President's letter. This was for some time objected to; and the -impropriety of the demand, as well as the unpleasantness of compliance -pointed out. They were resolved, however, to see it, and at length it -was shown to them; but as they were proceeding to make alterations in -it also, they were stopped, and told that the President's letter could -not be altered. Without making alterations in it, they insisted that -the letter could not be forwarded; nor would they consent to receive -it at all, unless, after seeing every correction made in both letters -that they wished, the packet should be sealed before their eyes. They -were told this want of confidence was offensive, and required a similar -discredit of their authority, as their names and rank were unknown, and -they had shown no credentials. They thereupon stated their names and -rank, said they had no credentials; and argued that they too had been -shown no credentials by the envoy. The envoy, it was replied, would -show his powers to the proper individuals in fit time and place. - -They still insisted on correcting the President's letter. Mr. Morrison -therefore returned, about nine, P. M., leaving the sealed package, -addressed to the minister, in charge of the deputies. - -[Sidenote: REMONSTRANCE.] - -_January thirty-first._ Mr. Morrison, having made a copy of the envoy's -letter to the minister, with the corrections which were last night -agreed to, as being immaterial, repaired on shore, in the forenoon, -with authority to make such trivial alterations, in the translation -of the President's letter, as the deputies might desire. He first -inquired if the packet that was left on shore had been sent to the -minister; and was answered, that, not being corrected, it could not be -forwarded. The deputies then repeated their unchanging expressions of -a desire, on the part of the minister who had sent them, to arrange -matters speedily, and on a friendly footing. Such conversation being -little likely to lead to any good result, it was avoided; and they were -requested, as they would not forward the packet, to return it. This -was accordingly done; and the envelope being removed, the translation -of the President's letter was laid before them, accompanied with a -remonstrance against their conduct, in insisting that it should be -altered before they would forward it. About two hours were now spent in -objecting to particular words and sentences, either as being improper -and contrary to etiquette, or as being unintelligible. They also made -particular inquiries respecting the original letter, whether it was -sealed or not, and whether the Chinese translation was signed by the -President. They put some questions, also, respecting the signature -of the Secretary of State, what was his rank, &c.; and asked if the -original letter was kept on board; and if the one shown to them was -only a copy. When told, "of course," they said, "that is right." - -Among other points, they professed not to understand the expression, -"Great and good friend;" and they interpreted it according to their -preconceived ideas, as a "request for a friendly intercourse." -The expression was explained to them, and shown to be perfectly -intelligible, (for it was only their astonishment at such familiar -language, that prevented their understanding it.) But still they -considered it quite inadmissible; the common word _yew_, a friend, -was unsuitable and improper between two great powers. The only thing -that would satisfy such hairbreadth distinguishers, was to say, "Your -country and mine have amicable intercourse." Wherever the simple and -_common_ word _I_ (wo) occurred, it became necessary to substitute -some other word, having a similar meaning, (as pun.) And for _he_ or -_him_, (ta,) referring to the envoy, they required in substitution of -kae-yuen, "the said officer." Where the President says, "I pray your -majesty to protect him, and to treat him with kindness and confidence," -they wished to introduce a request for "deep condescension" on the part -of the emperor, which was rejected; and, to satisfy them, a slight -change was made in the phraseology of the translation, but without -permitting any thing servile. The President's letter concludes with -this expression:--"I pray God to have you always, great and good -friend, under his safe and holy keeping." This they wished to change -into a prayer to "imperial heaven, for the continual peace of your -majesty's sacred person." In opposition to this proposed change, which -would present the President in the light of an idolater, the Christian -notion of the Deity, as "one God, the Supreme Ruler of heaven and -earth, of the nations and their sovereigns," was explained to them; -and the divinity of heaven and earth, believed by the Chinese and -Cochin-Chinese, was denied. They then proposed, by another change of -the term used to express the Deity, to make the President pray to the -"Gods of heaven." But this point they were obliged also to give up. - -Having thus gone over the whole letter, without the admission of any -degrading terms, though some expressions which they wished to have -adopted were still of a doubtful nature, they were informed, that -if, after consideration, it should appear right to make the proposed -alterations, a copy would be taken on shore in the evening. As they -insisted on having the packet closed before their eyes, it was agreed -that the despatch should then be sealed up, and given them to forward -to the minister. But they were not yet satisfied. After suffering -the letter to the minister to pass muster, (which they did with some -reluctance,) they re-examined the President's letter, and pointed out -how much the words, emperor, Cochin-China, &c., should, as indicative -of respect, be elevated above the head margin of the page; and finally, -they decided that it would be very improper for the President to -address his letter simply to the emperor, (te che;) it must, they -said, be transmitted either _with silent awe_, (suh te,) or _with -uplifted hands_, (fung, or te shang)--terms in frequent use among the -Chinese, and their humble imitators, the Cochin-Chinese, in addresses -from subjects to their sovereigns. These expressions were, therefore, -rejected, and Mr. Morrison returned on board, to consider the other -expressions, and explain them to the envoy. They were told that a -translation must be faithful to the original. They said it should give -the sense without adhering to the words of the original. This was -admitted; but if a different tone were adopted, they were told, the -sense could not be preserved. - -[Sidenote: FRESH INTERROGATORIES.] - -Shortly after Mr. Morrison had reached the ship, he was followed by one -of the deputies, the other being kept back probably by his liability -to sea-sickness. The former came furnished with written directions, -to which he at times referred, having neglected to gain satisfactory -knowledge of two _important_ points, viz.:--whether there were any -presents for the emperor, "as a token of sincerity;" and whether the -envoy was prepared to submit to the etiquette of the court, at an -audience of the emperor--this point being rendered very doubtful by the -previous resistance shown to their numerous requisitions. - -In reply to the first question, the deputy was told, that as the -subject was not mentioned in the letter from the President, it was -unnecessary to refer to it, before the conclusion of a treaty. Should -the emperor desire any thing particular, it might be sent at his -request. - -_Deputy._ "The emperor's coffers are full and overflowing, well -provided with every thing curious and valuable; how can he desire -any thing from you? But you have come to seek trade and intercourse. -Although the emperor is tender and kind to strangers, and willing to -admit them--yet, consider, if it appears well to come without presents -and empty handed." - -_Envoy._ "My country asks no favours or 'tenderness' from any; but I -desire to know how the emperor is willing to admit our merchants to -trade; whether on the same footing as the Chinese, &c., or not. Our -ships are found every where, but we seek favours from none." - -_Dep._ "I have heard that it is customary among the nations of the -west, to send presents, when seeking intercourse with the dominions of -others. On this account I ask the question, not because the emperor -wants any thing." - -_Envoy._ "As the emperor does not want presents, why do you speak of -them? Should a treaty be concluded, this is a minor matter, which can -then be spoken of; but which does not require any previous attention." -To this the deputy assented. - -The ceremony of presentation was easily dismissed, by informing the -deputy, that nothing beyond a bow, as to the President, would be -performed. The ceremony of the country was then asked. He said, that it -was to make five prostrations, touching the ground with the forehead; -and asked if five distinct bows would be acceded to without the -prostrations. To this the envoy replied, yes; he would make five, ten, -or as many bows as they desired; but the kneeling posture is becoming -only in the worship of the Creator. - -[Sidenote: FARTHER DELAYS.] - -The deputy now urged the necessity of proper regard being paid to the -elevation of the words emperor, Cochin-China, &c., and to the use of -"humble and decorous expressions." To this advice he endeavoured to -give greater force, by saying, that in the correspondence held by -the kings of An-nam, before the assumption of the present title of -emperor, such humble phraseology was made use of. This argument would -imply inferiority in the President, to one who bears the high title -of emperor, and was, therefore, instantly repelled as insulting. -The deputy denied its being insulting, maintained the propriety of -his argument, and insisted on the use, at the commencement of the -President's letter, of one or other of the derogatory terms already -mentioned, viz.: that the letter was sent with "silent awe," or that it -was presented with "_uplifted hands_." He was admonished not to repeat -so insulting a demand; for that the President stands on a footing of -perfect equality with the highest emperor, and cannot, therefore, use -any term that may make him appear in the light of one inferior to -the emperor of Cochin-China. The same term, it was added, will be -used as it is used in the letter from the envoy to the minster, which -term implies equality, without any disrespectful arrogation of it. -Such demands, he was told, far from being amicable, were of a very -unfriendly nature. - -In reply, he said, that unless this requisition was complied with, -he and his fellow-officers dare not forward the despatch, enclosing -the copy of the President's letter, nor dare they, he added, -forward the letter to the minister, without the President's letter, -although the mention made in it of the latter should be erased. As -this determination left no alternative, but complete failure or -dishonourable concessions, he was required to repeat the refusal, which -he did more than once, and then returned to the shore. - - - - -CHAPTER XV. - - SUSPENSION OF INTERCOURSE--FAILURE OF MISSION--DEPARTURE OF - EMBASSY FROM VUNG-LAM BAY--ENVOY'S TITLES--MODE OF HUSKING - RICE--TOMBS OF THE DEAD--FISHING BOATS--ABSENCE OF PRIESTS AND - TEMPLES--SUPERSTITIONS--WILD ANIMALS--MANDARINS' HOUSE--MODE OF - TAKING LEAVE--GOVERNMENT OF COCHIN-CHINA--GRADES OF RANK. - - -Two days having elapsed, on the third of February, without any -official intercourse with the shore, the junior deputy again appeared; -his colleague still remaining on shore on account of sickness. The -professed object of his coming, was a mere visit; the _real_ one, to -propose another word to be used at the commencement of the President's -letter, if the words previously suggested would not be adopted. This -word was kin, implying reverence, solemnity, and veneration, &c., not -differing materially from that which had before been proposed: it was -also rejected. The expression as it already stood, contained, he was -told, nothing disrespectful, and was a plain and simple version of the -original. He was determined, however, that without the adoption of some -derogatory expression, the letter should not be sent on to Hue; so that -the business of the mission remained at a stand. - -The deputy now shifted his position, as indeed none of his fellows -scrupled to do when needful, by adopting a false assertion: "While -on shore," he said, "every word was assented to; why is the use of -these words now refused?" This shows the convenient deafness or -forgetfulness, which these little-minded politicians can assume, when -occasion requires; for it had been specifically stated, that not a word -would be altered without farther consideration, and the permission of -the envoy. - -Thus baffled, he said that the obstinate determination of the envoy -left him at a loss in what way to act. - -"There is but one way," he was answered, "in which you can act. Take -the President's letter without these alterations. If you insist on -them, the business of the mission is at an end. The vessel will, -however, stay the time already mentioned, till she is quite ready -to leave. But you must not suppose she can wait to receive farther -refusals to fresh applications for permission to go to Hue." - -When leaving, it was carelessly said to him, that as he had said -American vessels were at liberty to trade, he should give a copy of the -regulations of commerce. This he refused. - -The next day, some similar questions respecting commerce, which were -asked during a short complimentary visit, were received uncourteously, -and answered by the deputies with professions of ignorance. - -[Sidenote: FAILURE OF MISSION.] - -_February seventh._ Eight days having now elapsed since the return of -the deputies to Hue, and nothing having been heard relative to the -mission, the two remaining deputies were informed, that the vessel -would go to sea on the morrow; and Mr. Morrison was about to pay a -farewell visit, and urge the receipt of payment for the refreshments, -at different times sent off, when the younger deputy came on board. - -After a few compliments had passed, he was told, that if the wind were -favourable, the ship would go to sea in the morning. He was asked, -also, if there was any news. - -The native Christian, Miguel, before interpreting what was said, -asked if the ship would not wait till something was heard from Hue. -But the deputy, who was more cautious of expressing his feelings, -simply replied, that he had no news. Had he heard from Hue, he would -immediately have come to report the news. He requested that no offence -would be taken, nor any unpleasant feeling be entertained, on account -of the manner in which the mission left; as the failure was entirely -owing to the difference of custom in the two countries. He hoped that -all unfriendliness would be dismissed, and that American vessels would -frequent the Cochin-Chinese harbours, as much as if the mission had -succeeded. - -In reply to what he said respecting the difference of customs, he -was told, that it could not be the custom of the country to exact -professions of inferiority from other countries, as the minister had -endeavoured to do in the present instance. The emperor, he said, -would have used the same phraseology, as that proposed to be used in -the letter, if addressing, by his envoy, the President of the United -States. This, he was told, would not be desired in the United States; -and, on the contrary, would only be subject to ridicule. He replied: -"Though _you_ might not require it, _our_ customs would!" It was -rejoined: "Since you would adhere to your own customs, if on a mission -to the United States, it stands to reason that the envoy of the United -States should adhere to his customs here." - -He now shifted his ground, and, while admitting that the expression -proposed was a strong one, maintained, nevertheless, that it was not -indicative of inferiority. Its use, by inferiors in addressing their -superiors, was pointed out to him; and he was asked, why, as the -word first used was far from disrespectful, he should wish it to be -changed? being, at the same time, again assured, that the words he -had suggested, should not be adopted. "If you have so determined," he -rejoined, "I cannot receive this letter. But though the mission fail, -that will not prevent your vessels coming to trade." - -"The trade," it was replied, "is on so bad a footing, the regulations -being unknown, and the government-charges and duties unascertained, -that vessels cannot come here." - -"All nations that come here," he answered, "for instance, the English -and French, are on the same footing with you. They do not inquire about -the laws; and none dare extort from them more than the regular charges." - -"This," he was told, "is not true; for the Chinese are on a different -footing, being able to go to many places where the English and French -cannot go. England and France have endeavoured to form treaties, but -without success. We know the regulations of the English and French -trade, but do not know any for the American trade: hence our mission." - -Being thus driven from one untenable position to another, he at length -pleaded ignorance. Admitting the fact, that the Chinese are allowed to -trade in Tonquin and other places, he however knew only the regulations -of Hue and Turan, and knew nothing of the laws in other places. - -"The mission," it was answered, "is not sent to you, but to the -emperor. He knows what the regulations are in every place." - -"The minister," he replied, "would know all, if the letter were sent -to Hue: but without the change of phraseology already pointed out, it -could not be sent. The envoys of Burmah and Siam have used the same -expressions as those proposed to you." - -"This," he was answered, "can be of no avail with the envoy of the -United States. If the envoys of Burmah and Siam have assented, either -ignorantly or with full knowledge, to adopt expressions of a servile -nature, that can have no influence on this mission." - -"Without the letter," repeated the deputy, "the minister cannot report -to the emperor." - -_Envoy._ "If he will, he can." - -_Dep._ "As I have not received any notice from Hue, I cannot say what -he has done." - -_Envoy._ "Eight days have elapsed since the two deputies have returned -to the capital." - -_Dep._ "Only five days have elapsed since your last letter to the -minister was shown us." - -The deputy was now requested to receive payment for the refreshments -sent to the envoy and the ship, as it was unpleasant to accept any -thing in the form of presents, the envoy not having obtained the -objects of his mission. He was urged not to refuse payment, and assured -that the envoy was sorry he was obliged to leave, without having -brought about a friendly intercourse between the two nations. He -refused, however, all payment as strenuously as it was urged upon him. -The things, he said, were mere trifles, and he could not accept any -thing for them. Nor in this did he say wrong; for they probably cost -the government very much less than their real value, small as that was. - -Before leaving, the deputy drank the health of the President; and the -health of the emperor of Cochin-China was drunk in return. He then took -leave, wishing us health and a pleasant voyage, and a speedy return. He -was thanked and told that he must not expect to see us again. - -The next morning, the ship got under weigh; and though all day slowly -beating out of the harbour, nothing more was seen of the Cochin-Chinese. - -[Sidenote: TITLES OF ENVOY.] - -During the discussion with the Mandarins relative to the letter which -was to be written to the minister, I refused to consider him in any -other light than my equal in rank, as they were so strongly disposed -to exalt him, and debase me if possible. The deputies expressed some -surprise at this observation, and demanded upon what ground I claimed -an equality with them; they were answered, as the representative of an -independent power. They then asked what were my titles; if they were -of as much importance as the minister's, and if they were as numerous. -They were told that there was no order of nobility in the United -States, and so they had been previously informed; still they insisted -that there must be something equivalent to it, and that, as I held an -important office under the government, I should not be without titles -of some sort. Finding the gentlemen were so extremely desirous that I -should have an appendage to my name, and as they would not be satisfied -with a denial, I at once concluded to humour them. I replied that I -would comply with their wishes, and furnish them with the greatest -abundance of titles. As they had been extremely unwilling to give the -titles of the emperor or the minister, or their own, they probably -concluded that I was actuated by the same motives as themselves in -withholding mine, whatever they were. The gentlemen belonging to -the ship who were in the cabin, looked very much astonished at this -reply, wondering how I was to extricate myself from this seeming -difficulty; but they were speedily relieved. The principal deputy -having prepared his Chinese pencil and half a sheet of paper, sat -down to write. I immediately observed to him, that it was necessary -to commence with a whole sheet, at which he expressed some surprise, -and said that the minister's titles would not occupy one fourth of it. -Having determined to give them, in the first place, the names of all -the counties, and the two hundred and odd towns in my native state, -as well as the mountains, rivers, and lakes, which would supply the -places of titles, and then, if they were not satisfied, to proceed -_in the same manner_ with all the other states in the Union, which, -by giving first the names of the several states, then the counties, -towns, &c., would probably occupy them for some days, if they had had -sufficient perseverance to proceed _to the end_ of what _I intended -should be endless_. I then commenced as follows, Mr. Morrison acting as -interpreter and frequently translator: - -Edmund Roberts, a special envoy from the United States, and a citizen -of Portsmouth, in the state of New Hampshire. I then proceeded with the -counties of Rockingham, Strafford, Merrimack, Hillsborough, Grafton, -Cheshire, Sullivan, and Coos. When he had written thus far, which -occupied much time, owing to the almost insurmountable difficulties in -rendering them into Chinese, he expressed strong signs of impatience -and asked if there were any more; I requested him not to be impatient, -as I was very desirous that not one should be omitted, as it was a -matter of primary importance in all governments where titles were -used. He remarked, that already they were greater in number than were -possessed by any prince of the empire. However, he dipped his pencil -in the ink, and recommenced as follows: I first took Gosport, in the -Isles of Shoals, being farthest at sea, and then went on with the towns -on the seacoast; with Hampton and Seabrook, Rye and New Castle, and -then Newington, Stratham, and Exeter. Having proceeded thus far, and -finding difficulties succeeding difficulties, at every syllable and at -every word, he laid down his pencil, seemingly exhausted, and asked if -there were any more, as he had then filled a sheet of Chinese paper. -I answered, he had scarcely made a commencement: at this he said it -was unnecessary to record the rest; and that he never heard or read -of any person possessing a like number. He complained of a headache -and sickness, owing to the rolling of the ship. I then begged he -would desist, for that time, and call on board as _early_ as he could -make it convenient on the following morning, for I was exceedingly -anxious he should have them _all_; then there would be no hesitation -in acknowledging that I was not presumptuous, when I stated that the -prime minister could not be considered my superior in point of rank, -as he did not possess so many titles. It was now very evident that -he began to be alarmed at the extent of my titles, lest they should -totally eclipse those of the minister, and that I might be desirous of -ascending a step _higher_ than his excellency. He replied that he was -fully satisfied that I was every way equal to him in point of rank. I -urged him to proceed, but without effect, for he refused very firmly, -but politely, and therefore _most reluctantly_ I was obliged to accede -to his wishes. - -The whole scene was certainly most ludicrous. Some of the gentlemen -could with much difficulty restrain their risible faculties, while -others walked out of the cabin, being utterly unable to refrain from -laughter, while I kept a most imperturbable countenance until the whole -matter was concluded. I renewed the attempt the next morning, when he -came on board, but he looked quite aghast at the mere request, and thus -ended this farcical scene. - -[Sidenote: NATIONAL USAGES.] - -It may be thought by those who are for submitting to every -species of degradation, to gain commercial advantages, that I was -unnecessarily fastidious in the course I adopted in the negotiation -with Cochin-China; but when it is known that there is no end to the -doctrine of submission with the ultra-Gangetic nations; and all past -negotiations of European powers will fully confirm what I now state, -that neither privileges, nor immunities, nor advantages of any kind, -are to be gained by submission, condescension, conciliation, or by -flattery, (they despise the former as a proof of weakness--the latter -as arguing a want of spirit;) that threats and aggressions are neither -justifiable nor necessary, a dignified, yet unassuming conduct, jealous -of its own honour, open and disinterested, seeking its own advantage, -but willing to promote that of others, will doubtless effect much with -nations of this stamp and character, and must in the end be able to -accomplish the object desired. - -Previous to visiting Cochin-China, I had laid down certain rules of -conduct, which I had resolved to adopt towards these people, as well -as the Siamese. In the first place, I had determined to adhere most -strictly to the truth, however detrimental it might be to the interest -of our commerce at _present_, or however unpalatable it might be to -either of the nations. I had further resolved, not to submit to any -degrading ceremonies, by performing the Ko-tow, uncovering the feet, -&c., &c. My answer to such requisitions would be: We do not come here -to change the customs of your court with its own statesmen, but we -come as independent people, for a short interview. Let your statesmen -preserve their customs, and we will preserve ours. Still, it may be -answered: You come to us, we do not go to you: my reply then would be: -When you come to us, you shall be allowed your own customs, in the mode -of presentation to the President. Reasoning with these people, must not -be founded on the ground of lord and vassal, but reciprocity. National -usages should be avoided as much as possible, and _natural reason_, -common sense, the reciprocal rights of men, be taken as the foundation -of intercourse. There is no end to the doctrine of _submission to law_, -where every worthless justice of peace tells you with a bare-faced lie -in his mouth, that his will and present declaration are the law of the -land. Seeing the gross impositions practised, by apparently friendly -nations, with other negotiators, I had further determined never to -repose any confidence in their advice, but to let my own judgment be -the guide of what was just and right. Furthermore, to be kind and -courteous to all; but after some little formalities, to reveal as -little to inferior officers as possible; and lastly, to use some state -and show, as they are useful auxiliaries in making an impression upon -the uncivilized mind. - -I deem it best, here to remark, that in my negotiations with Asiatics, -all apparent acknowledgments of inferiority, which precedes signatures -to letters, as "your humble servant," &c., are always construed -literally, and of course have an injurious effect upon a conceited -and arrogant people; and great nicety should be observed in preparing -documents on parchment, to which should be attached a large seal, -incased in a gold box, having the envelope of rich yellow silk or -satin, or otherwise it will give offence. - -To all outward appearance the country surrounding this noble bay is in -a highly flourishing condition, but on a more close examination this -beautiful vision is not realized. The inhabitants are without exception -the most filthy people in the world. As soon as the boat touches the -strand, out rush from their palm-leaf huts, men and women, and naked -children and dogs, all having a mangy appearance; being covered with -some scorbutic disease, the itch or small-pox, and frequently with -white leprous spots. The teeth, even of the children who are seven or -eight years old, are of a coal black, their lips and gums are deeply -stained with chewing areca, &c., their faces are nasty, their hands -unwashed, and their whole persons most offensive to the sight and -smell; for the most part the comb has never touched the children's -heads, and a whole village may be seen scratching at the same time -from head to foot. They are apparently brought up in utter idleness; -not a school is to be found, and they are seen playing all day long at -hide-and-go-seek under the boats, lounging among the palm-trees, or -sleeping on the bare ground in the shade or sun, as they find it most -convenient. The dress of the men and women is nearly the same, being -a wide long shirt, buttoned generally on the right side, with a pair -of short simple trousers, made of cotton. Those who are able, wear a -turban of black crape, and every man who makes any pretensions to -gentility, has a pair of reticules or broad-mouthed purses, in which -he puts areca and tobacco: these are thrown over the shoulders, and -are generally neatly made; some are wrought extensively in gold, some -embroidered with silk; others are of plain silk or satin, and generally -of their favourite colour, blue: those of an ordinary kind are worn -about the waist, or carried in the hand. But the dress of nineteen -twentieths of the inhabitants is merely a waist-cloth, which is kept in -a most filthy condition. - -[Sidenote: PRODUCTS.] - -In the course of a whole month, the period of our residence here, I -have not seen a person bathe, although beaches abound every where: the -Cochin-Chinese appear to have an utter aversion to cleanliness, and one -would be apt to infer that they all had a touch of the hydrophobia, -from their aversion to water. From the highly flourishing appearance of -the land, the immense number of fishing and coasting boats constantly -employed, it would be reasonable to conclude that great quantities of -sugar, coffee, cotton and fish were exported, and that provisions of -all kinds could be had in abundance; but such is not the fact: from -one to three small miserable junks, from the island of Hainan, visit -here annually, bringing coarse tea and some paper, and take in return, -ground-nut-oil, a small quantity of wax, and some colambac, here called -kinam; being a resinous aromatic concretion, and generally said to be -taken from the heart of the aloe wood. Sapan wood is occasionally to -be bought. The terrace culture is resorted to, in raising upland rice. -In fact, not enough rice is raised for the use of the inhabitants, and -they are obliged to import part of this necessary article of food from -Nhiatrang, and other parts of the kingdom. - -Their mode of freeing rice from the husk, is by means of a long beam -having a pestle at one extremity; the beam plays on a pivot secured -between two parallel upright posts, a large mortar being firmly fixed -in the ground; the beam is elevated by the operator placing his foot -upon the other end; this is a primitive, and a very slow method of -freeing the husk from the kernel, and it causes it to be much broken. -Indian corn appears to thrive well, but they obtain but a scanty -supply: if more attention was paid to agriculture, and a less number -of people were employed in fishing, exports to a large amount might -be made within a few years; they import rice and tea, when they might -raise both in abundance, as well as coffee. - -Elephants appear to be used here for domestic purposes; they are said -to be found in great numbers. Buffaloes, having a hump between the -fore shoulders, are used in the plough as well as the common ox; the -price given for the former for the use of the ship, has been from ten -to fifteen dollars. A small fleet horse, or rather pony, is here much -used, the price being about twenty quans, equal to eleven dollars. -Fowls, ducks and pigs, are by no means plentiful, and are only bought -at high prices; they will offer two, three or four of the two former -for a Spanish dollar or for a couple of common jackknives, which they -much prefer. The fruits which have been thus far offered for sale, -are the custard-apple and the jack, limes, oranges, pomegranates, -watermelons, lemons of immense size, and a great variety of the -plantain and banana, in one kind of which I found a great many seeds; -they were disposed of in horizontal layers in six compartments, having -a small pith running through them; there are about fifty seeds in -each, of an irregular shape, pointed slightly, and white at the apex; -immediately beneath them was a black ring, extending about one fourth -of the way down. Never having seen any seed-bearing plantain, I am -induced to note it; when ripe, the outside is of a reddish yellow, and -the fruit pleasant to the taste. The vegetables are few in number, and -all we have yet seen, are beans, the egg-plant, and the sweet potato. - -[Sidenote: FISHING-BOATS.] - -Great care appears to be taken of the remains of the dead--some are -placed in tombs of stone, neatly built and plastered, having a small -wicker-work house placed in the centre--others are deposited in a -common grave, having a basket-work roof which is placed there to -protect them from wild beasts. The inhabitants are civil, but sometimes -troublesome in approaching too near--they seem desirous of handling -every part of the dress--but the sad condition they are in, makes -it necessary frequently to use coercive measures to keep them at a -_wholesome_ distance. The naval button, with an eagle and an anchor on -it, demands universal admiration. A few small junks are built of wood -and many are repaired at Vunglam. Fishing occupies a large portion of -the time of the inhabitants, and from one hundred to one hundred and -fifty boats are seen issuing out of the bay every morning at sunrise -from the various villages. Some of them carry lug sails, and others are -of a triangular shape, &c., &c., and some have two masts and others -three; the largest mast being stepped in the centre, the next being -equi-distant between that and the smallest one, which is stepped as -near to the bows as possible; the sail on the middle mast is less than -one half the size of the mainmast, and the forward one about half the -size of the second. They are built very sharp forward; the bottom is -of basket-work, very closely woven, and stretched on a frame, and -dammer or pitch is used freely both within and without; the upper works -are of wood, and oil is frequently applied to the bottom. There are -a few built entirely of wood and very little iron, being generally -tree-nailed on to the timbers. The sails are of matting, neatly woven, -and generally well cut in a seamanlike manner. The cables are of -cocoa-nut fibres, and the anchors of a species of very heavy wood. -Chunam is used on the vessels, having wooden bottoms; and the upper -works are blacked with a substance resembling lacquer. The largest -class may carry forty or fifty tons. - -Trees of a large growth are very scarce, being cut away to the tops of -the highest hills; they are therefore obliged to resort further inland -for ship-timber; a few planks of forty feet in length and about four -inches in thickness, of a very hard wood, were seen in the ship-yards, -sawed out quite roughly. Temples or houses for religious worship and -priests, there are none; they are said to be prone to superstitious -rites--this assertion has been fully confirmed in many instances. - -In passing along between the village of Vunglam and the beach, I saw -a shed erected, having within it some characters written on a board -resembling the Chinese, but being blended so much together, they could -not be understood; the picture of a frightful object was also there. -A Chinese, who was with us, said it was placed there to guard against -evil spirits, which greatly infested that place. In another part of the -village was erected a similar shed, under which was a board, on which -was inscribed in Chinese characters, only the word _God_, it therefore -reminded me at once of what St. Paul found written on an altar at -Athens, "To the unknown God." I suppose those more refined barbarians -and these poor Cochin-Chinese, are alike ignorant of _Him_ who made -and governs all things. Traversing the beach near Vung-chow, we saw a -small cell erected on posts, in the middle of a grove of trees; looking -into it, we found two chalk-fish painted green, suspended from the -roof, and some pots containing half-burnt joss-sticks. When they wish -for success in fishing, offerings are made to the presiding Deity. -Great quantities of sea-shells were scattered about the place, and -fires were evidently frequently made; thus they present the essence -of their feasts only to the Neptunian Deity, while the pious devotee -devours the substance. In another similar place about four miles from -thence, we found another cell or box erected on posts, but it was -more neatly constructed--in it were two paintings in water colours, -evidently Chinese, each having one large and two small female figures; -before them were half-burnt incense rods and on one side a horse's head -wrapped in a cloth, which, on opening, we found filled with maggots: a -great number of small green glazed pots were scattered about. - -Tigers abound throughout the country: a few nights since one came into -the village of Vunglam, and carried off into the jungle a good-sized -pig. The woods abound with wild hogs, goats, deer, peacocks, &c., &c., -and the wild elephant is also abundant in the forests. About two miles -from hence is a large barrack, containing a number of soldiers: the -only arm I have yet seen them to possess is a very long spear, having -a small flag or tassel attached to it. I was introduced to an old man, -the commander of two thousand, the other day; himself and attendants -were on horses of a small size, or rather ponies; they sat on saddles -of a peculiar construction, the hinder part being the lowest; the -saddle-cloth being fancifully painted, a rope used instead of a bit -and bridle, and a string of small ornamented bells placed around the -neck: the commander was dressed in a long robe of blue satin, and -wore a black crape turban. He endeavoured to show every civility by -dismounting and walking. - -[Sidenote: MANDARINS' HOUSE.] - -It has been heretofore stated, that, after repeated requests, we -returned the ceremonious calls of two of the mandarins. On approaching -the house, towards the outer gate, we found twelve long spears, bearing -small flags, placed perpendicularly in the ground, in two lines. A -wattled fence separated the dwelling from the beach: in passing through -the outward entrance, we found a short neat avenue, of the graceful -areca-palm, intertwined with the piper-betel leaf. We then passed -through the inner entrance to the court-yard, which was in neat order. -The mandarins received us with much politeness: a temporary arbour -had been erected, and a table spread, having on it rice-wine, cakes, -sweetmeats, fruits--tea being also served. At each end of the arbour, -were suspended, from the roof, two elegantly embroidered cloths, having -silk tassels and worked lappels: Chinese characters were wrought on -them, the purport of which could not be ascertained, as they were so -much blended together. Two brass tripods, for burning incense, were -placed on the table, ornamented with a lion couchant, from the mouth -of which and the open-work cover, issued the grateful perfume of the -kinnam or calembac, which was kept well replenished. Paper cigars, -pipes, and areca, completed the regale. The house was of brick, with -a neat tiled roof. Flowers, in pots, were neatly arranged around the -court-yard. - -Many of the natives stood looking on, and behaved with perfect -propriety. The mandarin, or chief of the village of Vung-lam, who -paid us the first visit on our arrival, was in attendance, standing -at my left hand, and served us, in common with the interpreters. -The mandarins were dressed in their robes of ceremony. Three houses -occupied as many sides of the court-yard. The mandarins and guards -attended us to our boats. - -When the discussion was going on relative to the letter to the -minister, which occupied many hours, they finally approved of every -sentence, and every word, except "_friendly_," which they thought was -rather too familiar a word to be used between nations; and therefore -they proposed substituting the word "neighbourly," which would read, -"neighbourly intercourse." Seeing that I was rather amused at the -proposed alteration, they were desirous of knowing the cause. Being -told, that, as we lived some twenty thousand miles apart, we could not -hold a _very neighbourly intercourse_, they were much amused by the -gross blunder committed by their ignorance, and replied, it was very -true, and therefore they would be satisfied with the word friendly, -as proposed by me. They were not aware, however, of the distance -between the two countries, neither did they know the situation of North -America, but supposed it to be in Europe, as we afterward ascertained. - -When they take leave, they always place our right hand between theirs, -bow their heads very slowly, and as low down as possible. - -The government of Cochin-China is thoroughly despotic, being framed in -close imitation of that of China. The sovereign, who, till lately, bore -the title of king, and who still pays a nominal tribute to China under -that title, assumes, among his own subjects, and with all foreign -countries, except China, the Chinese title of hwang-te, (or emperor,) -with the peculiar attribute, "sacred," "divine," &c., commonly used -by the court of Peking. The name, or epithet, by which the present -monarch is designated, (which name was taken by the monarch himself, -at his accession to the throne,) is ming-ming; it signifies, "emperor -appointed by the brilliant decree of heaven." - -According to the account of the deputies, who visited the ship at -Vung-lam, the _administration_ is also formed in imitation of the -Chinese--consisting of a council of four principal, and two secondary -ministers. The chief of these, (whom Mr. Crawford, the British envoy, -calls the minister of elephants, or of strangers,) was said to be the -minister of commerce, navigation, &c. - -The provincial government is also formed in imitation of the Chinese. -Two or more provinces are governed by a toung-tuh, (tsong-dok,) or -governor; under whom, the principal officers, in each province, -are two, viz.: a pooching-sze, (bo-chang-sze,) or treasurer and -land-officer: and an anchasze, or judge. Subordinate to these, are -magistrates, called che-foos, che-keens, &c., presiding over the -districts into which each province is divided. In Cochin-China, as -in China, there are nine grades of rank, each of which is divided -into a principal and secondary class. Every officer, employed in the -government, is of one of these grades: thus, the ministers of the -council are of the first grade, principal class; and the governors of -provinces, are of the first grade, secondary class. - -This is all the information respecting the government of Cochin-China, -that could be obtained from the natives. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI. - - PASSAGE FROM COCHIN-CHINA TO THE GULF OF SIAM--ARRIVAL AT - THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER MENAM--PACKNAM--PROCESSION TO THE - GOVERNMENT-HOUSE--RECEPTION--GOVERNOR--SIAMESE TEMPLES--INTERVIEW - WITH THE SIAMESE FOREIGN MINISTER--PRIMA DONNA--FEATS - OF STRENGTH--SIAMESE FEMALES--FIRE AT BANG-KOK--WHITE - ELEPHANTS--EMBALMING--SHAVING-HEAD CEREMONY AND FEAST--FOX-BATS. - - -We weighed anchor on the eighth of February, for the gulf of Siam; -light winds and calms detained us nearly two days, within sight of the -bay, in which lies Vunglam, &c., &c. We kept near to the coast, and -found it bold and free from dangers; the land was hilly and frequently -broken into mountains, more particularly between that bold promontory, -called Cape Varela, and Cape Padaran. We passed the latter within -three miles; from thence the land gradually dwindled into a gently -undulating country, and then into low land. We finally lost sight of -it off the numerous mouths of the great river, Kamboja. On the same -afternoon, being the twelfth, we passed Padaran, and saw Pulo Cica de -Terre and Lagan point. At meridian, on the following day, Pulo Condore -was in sight, and the islands to the westward, called the Brothers. -At daylight, the next morning, we beheld Pulo Ubi, or Yam island, -which lies to the southward of cape Camboja. On the fourteenth, the -islands and islets called Pulo Panjang, and ascertained their correct -position to be in latitude 9 deg. north, by a meridian observation, and -by the chronometers, in 104 deg. 32', east longitude. At daylight, on -the following morning, we found ourselves in the midst of a group of -islands, lying so peacefully amid the glassy surface of the gulf, that -Dana's beautiful description of "Quiet Islands," was at once brought to -my recollection, from which I have made the following extract:-- - - "The island lies nine leagues away, - Along its solitary shore, - Of craggy rocks and sandy bay, - No sound but ocean's roar, - Save where the bold, wild sea-bird makes her home, - Her shrill cry, coming through the sparkling foam; - - "But when the light winds lie at rest, - And on the glassy, heaving sea, - The black duck, with her glossy breast, - Sits swinging silently, - How beautiful! no ripples break the reach, - And silvery waves roll noiseless up the beach." - -These islands are uninhabited, excepting when they are used as a -place of resort by Malay pirates. They are six in number, and a rocky -islet. As they are not laid down in any of our charts, they were -named the "_Woodbury Group_," in honour of my friend, the Honourable -Levi Woodbury, the secretary of the navy. The northernmost island was -called "_Geisinger_;" the most southern and eastern, "_Roberts_;" -the centre one, between the two, "_Peacock_;" and that one lying -farthest to the westward, and nearly in latitude of Roberts island, -was named "_Boxer_:" the others were left unnamed. Their latitudes and -longitudes, from three chronometers and a meridian observation, are as -follows:--Two of them are about two miles long; one is in latitude 10 deg. -16' N., and longitude, 102 deg. 43' E., and the other in 10 deg. 7' and 103 deg.. -Two small islands and a rocky islet to the westward of them, lie in -10 deg. 25' and 103 deg.. Two narrow islands, four or five miles in length, -one in latitude 10 deg. 19' and 103 deg. 12' E., and the other in 10 deg. 15', and -103 deg. 21' E. On the sixteenth February, at noon, we were abreast of cape -Liant and the islands in its vicinity; the latter are high and bold of -approach. Their latitude and longitude are laid down in the charts too -far to the southward and eastward. On the eighteenth we came to anchor -in four fathoms of water, about ten miles from the mouth of the river -Menam. - -The Ko Si-Chang islands bore as follows: The most southern and westward -of the group, S. S. E. 3/4 E.; centre, S. E. 1/2 S. The mountain of -Bang-pa-soe, on the main land, E. S. E. The entrance of the eastern -or main branch of the Menam, and the easternmost land in sight, W. -S. W. The land is very low, even with the water's edge, and covered -with trees; that at the entrance, on the starboard hand, is a little -more elevated. On the nineteenth, the tide had fallen to nineteen. We -weighed again, and stood a mile or two to the southward, and anchored -in five fathoms. The latitude and longitude of the anchorage is in -latitude 13 deg. 26' N., and longitude 100 deg. 33' E., as was ascertained by -frequent lunar observations and by four chronometers. During the height -of the river, when it is swollen by the periodical rains, sixteen feet -of water may be found on the bar. At high spring tides, in the dry -season, twelve to thirteen feet, and eight to nine in common tides. -The above-named islands, by some navigators called the Dutch islands, -possess a safe and beautiful harbour, formed between the principal, or -Si-Chang island, and the next in magnitude, called Koh-kam. They are -inhabited only by a few fishermen, and produce _some_ yams, bananas, -capsicums, gourds, and cucumbers. A boat was despatched to them to -obtain water, if possible, but it could not be found in sufficient -quantities to furnish the ship. We had no other resource, but to send -upward of forty miles for it, to Bang-kok, or else to take the brackish -water of Packnam. Water, we were informed, could only be had at the -Si-Changs during the rainy season. - -[Sidenote: PACKNAM.] - -A boat was sent to the governor of Packnam on the eighteenth, to inform -him of the arrival of the ship, &c., and a letter was sent to the -minister for foreign affairs, announcing the arrival of the mission. On -the following day, an interpreter came on board, who asked among the -first questions if there were any presents for the king, but received -no satisfactory answer. A vast number of questions were also put to -Mr. Morrison by the governor. A Cochin-Chinese ambassador arrived at -Packnam on the same day, with several small filthy junks laden with -merchandise. It was said to be only an annual mission sent by the -emperor, while others stated that it was to honour the ceremony of -burning the body of the "second king" who died some months since at -the capital. On the twentieth, the captain of the port came on board, -who said he was sent by the praklang or prime minister, by order of -the king, to congratulate us on our arrival; that his majesty was much -gratified at the good news, and very desirous of having a friendly -commercial intercourse with the United States. After making similar -inquiries, as the governor of Packnam, he returned. The day following, -the praklang sent some fruit as a token of regard, with a complimentary -message to me. - -On Sunday the twenty-fourth, three large boats came to anchor near the -ship, under the charge of the captain of the port of Bang-kok, Mr. -Josef Piedade, a Christian Portuguese born at Bang-kok. He stated that -preparations were made at Packnam by the governor for the reception -of the mission, that a feast was there prepared by order of the king, -that we should be under the necessity of remaining there that night, -for it was customary for all foreign ministers to stop there, and -notice to be given of their arrival; in congressional language, to -"report progress." The vessel in which I embarked was from seventy to -eighty feet in length, and perhaps eight or nine in breadth, sharp -built; having three long brass cannon, highly ornamented with silver, -inlaid in fanciful devices. One was placed forward, between the bows, -the vessel having no bowsprit; one aft, and two long swivels mounted -on fixtures, between the fore and main mast, and between the main and -mizen mast. She had three fore-and-aft sails made of light canvass, and -cordage made of hemp, with good iron anchors, which are rarely seen on -board native vessels in the China seas, wooden ones being in general -use. The vessel was propelled with forty short oars, manned by as many -Burmese slaves, dressed in the king's uniform; being a coarse red -cotton long jacket, a cap of the same material, trimmed with white, and -a blue waist-cloth. The boat had two rudders, one under each quarter; -and from having two helmsmen, it was either "hard up, or hard down," -continually; consequently, she "_yawed_" not a little. There were no -less than seven red flags; one to each peak, two to each bow, and two -to each quarter. A small house on deck was appropriated solely for the -use of the envoy. It was covered with a carpet, and furnished with a -pillow to recline on. The boat was neatly built and painted, and the -house slightly decorated with carving and gilding. The passengers in -the two boats consisted of Capt. Geisinger, Second-Lieut. Purveyance, -Lieut. Fowler of the Marine Corps, Acting-Lieut. Brent, Doctor Ticknor, -Midshipmen Carrol, Thomas, Crawford and Wells, and Mr. J. R. Morrison -of Macao, Secretary and Chinese Interpreter, and four servants. -The other was, in all respects, a similar vessel, but manned with -thirty-six oars; rowed by Malay slaves dressed in blue, with caps of -the same, trimmed with white. The ship lay in five and a half fathoms -water, and not less than fifteen miles from Packnam, which is situated -about two miles from the mouth of the river Menam: Packnam means the -river's mouth or embochure. The shores are every where very low, and as -flat as the south side of La Plata, or Arkansas on the Mississippi, and -in the rainy season are completely submerged. The entrance to the river -on the starboard hand is rather more elevated than on the left, which -is quite sunken, mangrove and other trees only appearing out of the -water. The river takes a sharp turn to the northward, at the entrance; -the left bank running parallel, gives it the appearance of being closed -at the mouth. - -[Sidenote: PROCESSION.] - -We arrived at Packnam, on the left bank of the river, about eight, -and found there, waiting for us, the captain of the port, and a -great number of slaves at the landing, with torches in hand, and -fastened also to temporary posts, to light us on the way to the -government-house, situated just without an extensive fortification. -There was a narrow way paved with broad bricks, which led to the -governor's. The gentlemen composing the company, the servants on each -flank with their numerous flambeaux, with many hundred lookers-on, -preserving the utmost decorum, made no small show, and produced, upon -the whole, rather an imposing effect, for this was the first envoy ever -sent to the "magnificent king of Siam," from the United States. - -We were ushered into the best house in the village, enclosed by a -bamboo-fence and guarded by soldiers with long wooden poles, pointed -with iron. The houses are erected as all the houses are here, from five -to seven feet above the ground, on substantial posts; the sides are -covered with attap, a species of palm growing abundantly on the banks -of the Menam; they have a double roof, one of tile and another of attap -to moderate the intensity of the heat. We ascended a stairway and were -ushered into "the presence" through lines of _prostrate_ slaves, from -thence to a raised platform. - -The governor was sitting cross-legged on an elevated seat, under a -broad canopy, surrounded, a little beneath him, by his sword and -silver-stick bearers, and a man holding a long fan made of feathers, -which was kept in constant motion to keep him cool and to drive off -the myriads of moschetoes. His menials were all prostrate, resting on -their knees and elbows, coming in and going out in the same attitude, -always keeping their faces turned towards him. He was smoking a long -pipe, having before him areca-nut, chunam, ceri (siri) or betel-leaf, -and tobacco, all of which were deposited in several large gold cups or -goblets. His dress consisted of a _waist-cloth_--his head was shaved -excepting on the crown, "a la Siamese." He received us very graciously, -courteously, and hospitably, shaking us heartily by the hand; chairs -were prepared for us and the best viands the place could afford, -consisting of at least a dozen dishes, were shortly ordered in, well -cooked in the Portuguese fashion, clean and neat with porter, cocoa-nut -water, and a square Dutch bottle of gin--there were clean table-cloth, -knives, forks, plates and spoons, and the floor was covered with a neat -woollen carpet. The usual inquiries were made for our healths, ages, -children, &c., &c. He congratulated us on our arrival, and said the -mission was not only gratifying to him personally but to the country, -as he was informed by the praklang or principal minister. - -Supper being ended, bamboo-chairs covered with mats, some mattresses -and pillows, were prepared, and the raised canopy or throne was -assigned to me. Three fourths of two sides of the room were open to the -air, protected from rain only by the long projecting attap roof--we -were guarded during the night by soldiers and excessively annoyed by -moschetoes. By daylight, all were upon the "qui vive," glad to escape -from the torments of the night. An early ramble carried us to a pagoda, -neat in appearance, decorated with carved work and gilding--it was -built of brick and neatly plastered--figures of non-descript animals -were about it, which were probably intended for lions, cut from -granite, and there were small pra-chades or single spires built of -brick and plastered, the whole being enclosed by a wall; the doors -were shut so that we could not obtain an entrance; the ground every -where was very low and swampy, and the houses mean; the people appeared -to be wretchedly poor, diseased and dirty, but still cleaner than -the Cochin-Chinese. Breakfast ended, we took leave of the hospitable -governor and proceeded up the river. - -Very extensive fortifications are here to be seen on both sides of the -river, having water batteries, apparently of great strength. A great -number of soldiers manned the walls in compliment to us, all dressed -in the royal red uniform. We proceeded on with the flood tide, cheered -by the passing scene. Occasionally, we met a single hut or a group of -huts, having a boat at the door, and a ladder to ascend into their -only room; this ladder is taken away at night, making their habitations -more secure against wild beasts and reptiles, which are in great -abundance in the swamps. Their principal neighbours are tigers and -leopards, snakes of various sizes from the boa-constrictor and venomous -cobra de cappello to the more deadly viper, which they say is black, -about four or five inches in length, and has two short legs. Alligators -bask in the sun at the foot of the ladder or under their building, and -moschetoes bear the palm here over the swamps of Louisiana and Texas, -coming in myriads so as partially to obscure the sun. - -We passed on to Pack-lac situated on the right bank, where we again -found very extensive fortifications; but we were unable to ascertain -the number of guns either here or at Packnam, which is probably about -ten or twelve miles below. The ebb tide here met us, and the slaves -made but slow progress in rowing--a breeze occasionally helped us, but -the remainder of the passage was rendered tedious by the great heat of -the sun. The river has a great many bends, so that it is nearly double -the distance, by water, from Packnam to the capital, being from thirty -to thirty-five miles, and only twenty by land. The shores are upon a -level with the river at high spring tides, even at Bang-kok, and as I -am informed, a long distance above Jutaya the ancient capital. - -Not until we were within a dozen miles of the capital, were there many -clusters of huts to be seen; but, from thence, they gradually increased -in number till we arrived at the city. The graceful and favourite -areca-palm, with its tall slender trunk and brush-like head, and the -towering bamboo and cocoa-nut, were to be seen every where along the -banks, interspersed with a great variety of fruit and forest trees; -and the water's edge was bounded by the attap, or cocos-nypa, which -is in universal use as a thatch for their huts. As we approached the -capital, we began to see pagodas, some houses with tiled roofs, and -a great many large junks, building in dry docks, which consist of a -simple excavation made on the banks, the water being drained out by an -ordinary barrier of plank, well banked with clay. Many of these junks -were upward of a thousand tons. From two to three hundred were lying in -the river. - -[Sidenote: BUDHIST TEMPLES.] - -Numerous temples of Budha were now seen, covered with neat coloured -tiles, some blue, and others green or yellow. Tall single spires, or -prah-chadis, were observed every where. The temples present a very -splendid appearance, having highly ornamented carved work in front, and -literally blazing in gold. There is something very novel in their style -of architecture, which can only be made clear to the understanding by -drawings. Fruit and palm-trees overshadow their houses, interspersed -with the sacred fig-tree, giving to them a cool and tropical-like -appearance. Floating houses, resting on rafts of bamboo secured to -piles, line both banks of the river, which seem to be occupied by -industrious Chinese, as their long narrow red signs indicate: the -latter serve to show the various articles they have for sale, &c. -The Chinese are easily distinguished by their complexion, being more -yellow than the Siamese; but they have generally _docked_ the _entail_ -to their heads, and dress a la Siamese, with a circle of hair on the -_roof_. But few of the "long tails," the distinguishing appendage to a -Chinaman's head, are to be seen. - -We were upward of nine hours in reaching the landing,[A] in front -of the house assigned to us by the king. We landed, and formed a -procession to the house; the officers being dressed in their uniforms, -and the servants bringing up the rear. We were ushered in by the -pia-visa, or general of artillery, benedetts de arguelleria, and some -other of the king's officers, to the finest looking house we had seen -on the river, having the front view entirely unobstructed. Passing -through a neat white gateway, having a well-built stuccoed wall, over -a grass-plot, through the inner gate, we found ourselves within an -extensive area, between two long rows of buildings, having large trees -in the centre; an outside staircase conducted us to a saloon, where -we found a table set, and shortly after supper was announced. It was -cooked in the European and Indian style, having a variety of curries -of fish and fowl. It was well served, and in profusion; and followed -by a great variety of sweetmeats, and fruits of the season. Certain -king's officers attended, and ordered every thing; bedsteads and beds -were brought; and, in a day or two, moscheto-nets, &c., &c. A cook was -provided, and a purveyor, who partially supplied us with provisions. -There was, also, a superintendant of the household, a Siamese -Portuguese by birth, Domingo by name, having four other servants to do -the ordinary work of the house; and these, again, are all under the -orders of Piedade, the captain of the port, who receives his orders -from the praklang, or prime minister for foreign affairs. - -[A] On the right bank of the river, which is called Bang-kok--the word -Bang-kok is derived from ban, a house, and kok, a garden. Most of the -fruit used at the old capital, came from this place. - -Every day or two, presents of sweetmeats, fruit, or more substantial -food is sent, by the praklang, served up in glass dishes, and sent -on gold and silver salvers. When brought in, the servants kneel down -and present them, in a more humble manner than suits our republican -notions. Our residence has two ranges of buildings, running back -about one hundred and fifty feet, exclusive of the front yard, with a -wide area between them. It is built of brick and stuccoed, having a -neat tiled roof. A long covered gallery conducts to the dormitories, -consisting of eight on each side, which are about twenty feet square, -with wooden floors; underneath are magazines, or offices; between -the two ranges of building, and connected with them by a high wall, -is the dining-hall, open so as freely to admit the air, commanding a -fine view of the capital and suburbs, on the left bank: underneath the -dining-hall, is a private go-down, or magazine. The river at all times -has a great number of boats upon it; but in the morning, when the bazar -is being made ready, there are many hundreds, probably thousands, going -in all directions, from the smallest canoe, scarcely able to contain -a single person, to others which are nearly a hundred feet in length, -and made from a single teak-tree: they are paddled by a great number of -men, having a house in the centre, or a palm-leaf roof; the passengers -reclining on a raised platform, covered with mats, carpets, and pillows. - -[Sidenote: WATER-PEDLARS.] - -Water-pedlars, of both sexes, but principally women, are in abundance, -carrying tin and brass ware, English, and China, and India goods. Rice, -oil, dried and fresh fish, balachang, eggs, fowls, areca, siri-leaf, -chunam, pork, fruit, vegetables, &c.; indeed every thing that is -wanted, or supposed necessary for the comfort, convenience, or luxury -of the inhabitants. Budhist priests, with their yellow waist-cloths, -mantles, shaven heads and eyebrows, are seen in great numbers, going -their daily rounds among the inhabitants, in canoes, for food and -clothing. Women, also, use the oar, in great numbers, and with equal -dexterity as the men. - -Although the Siamese are not a cleanly people, they are far superior -to the Cochin-Chinese; they bathe frequently, their skins are clear -and free of eruptions, and they do not everlastingly scratch, scratch, -and keep scratching, like the people of Vunglam; but their coal-black -teeth are excessively disgusting, and the saliva created by chewing -areca, siri-leaf, and tobacco, is constantly issuing in a red stream, -from their mouths. Fishing being farmed out, there are not the same -lively scenes exhibited here as on the Pasig. I have seen but a very -few occupied in that way since my arrival. Every floating house has -necessarily a boat to go visiting, from place to place, or to transact -business. The front parts of all these houses are shops, having their -wares neatly arranged on shelves and terraces. These buildings are of -one story only, and are used as a bedroom at night, or to take a siesta -when the heat of the day, low water, and want of customers, give to -their inmates a temporary respite. - -The river here is about fifteen hundred feet wide, and very deep, -probably fifty or sixty feet, and the stream rapid on the flood and -ebb; the water is notwithstanding, fresh, and is used for all domestic -purposes, filthy as it is. The upper stratum of the banks of the river -is alluvial, and the under, where exposed, shows a stiff strong clay. -The houses on the land, with very few exceptions, are of one story, -built on high piles, made of plank or bamboo, and roofed with tile or -attap. - -[Sidenote: RECEPTION OF ENVOY.] - -Having expressed a desire to the praklang, through the interpreter, to -enter as early as possible on the subject of the mission, I received -an invitation early the next morning, from the minister of foreign -affairs, to meet him the same afternoon at five. He sent me word at -the same time, that it was always customary for foreign ministers to -pay him the first visit. Suitable boats were sent in due time, and -Captain Geisinger and his officers, and Mr. Morrison, accompanied me, -dressed in their uniforms. A few minutes brought us to his house. -Numerous people were present to attend our landing, a large portion of -whom came, probably, from motives of curiosity only. The house being -but a short distance from the river, we were soon within his gates, -and entered by a flight of steps into the audience hall. In the centre -was a raised seat, on which the minister reclined. He is a very heavy -unwieldy man, weighing, probably, nearly three hundred pounds, and -about fifty-five years of age; his only dress was a waist-cloth of -silk; he was resting on a new crimson velvet cushion, supported on the -back by one of triangular shape. In front, on the seat, were utensils -of gold, handsomely wrought, containing areca, chunam, betel-leaf, -&c., the gift of the king. The front of the hall was entirely open, -the room decorated with a great number of very ordinary oval gilt -looking-glasses, placed near to the ceiling, on the pillars which -supported the roof; common English prints of battles, rural scenery, -&c., were closely placed along the walls. Instead of wooden panels, -painted Chinese glass was placed in compartments of about four feet -in height, with a profusion of blue and gold, and outre figures of -Chinese men, animals, &c. Brass chandeliers and common glass lamps were -suspended from the roof. On the left of the praklang, being the seat of -honour in the East, and at the distance of a dozen feet, were placed -two chairs for Captain Geisinger and myself. I was requested to occupy -the one nearest to the minister. A short distance from us, parallel -with the praklang's seat, chairs were placed for the officers of the -Peacock and Mr. Morrison. On the right, on a raised platform, but lower -than the minister's or our seat, and fronting Captain Geisinger and -myself, were Mr. Piedade and other interpreters, secretaries, &c., to -the number of six or seven, closely wedged together; they were all -crouching, in a brute-like attitude, on their knees and elbows. On -the left, between me and the minister, were two of his younger sons, -decorated with a profusion of golden necklaces, set with large stones, -having beautiful golden coronets around the tuft of hair, on the top -of the head, and a large golden bodkin secured the hair on their -crown; a silken waist-cloth covered their loins, and silver bangles -or rings decorated their wrists and ankles. Their skins were stained -with turmerick, sandal-wood, or saffron. A sword-bearer, resting on -his shoulder a sword, having a rich and highly-finished and ornamented -gold sheath; another slave, with a long feathered fan, to keep his -excellency cool, if possible, with others, were all prostrate on the -floor, like the interpreters; without, in the court-yard, were a -great number of people, all in this humiliating posture. His sons, -when called, crawled as well as the others, and went backward in the -same attitude, always facing their lord and master. One of them was -ordered to bring us palm-leaf cigars; he came crawling on, poor fellow, -bowed his head to the ground, and presented them; he then went to the -officers, but stood up, after leaving Captain Geisinger and myself; -he afterward crawled back to his station, on the left of his father. -We all made a bow in the usual style of our country, on entering and -retiring, and were presented with tea, sweetmeats, and fruit. - -The minister congratulated us on our arrival, inquired, as is customary -here, as to our ages, children, &c., what ports we had been to, the -object of the mission, all of which he previously knew by a letter -received from me, dated on the day of our arrival off the mouth of the -Menam. Having got through with this interview, and appointed the next -evening for a conference, we took leave. I observe that the greater -chiefs within sight of our habitation, have high poles erected close to -their houses, on which small flags are displayed, and at night large -lanterns are hoisted at the top, as a distinguishing mark, over their -less fortunate neighbours. Every sort of humiliation is practised by -the lower to the higher classes, according to their rank: from that -of making a simple obeisance by uniting their hands, and raising them -to the forehead, and bowing the head low, to kneeling, and the entire -prostration of the body. - -We went by invitation, on the sixth of March, to the house of the -praklang's brother, to attend the celebration of the feats given, in -consequence of cutting the tuft of hair on his son's head, which is -done between the ages of ten and fifteen. The principal part of this -evening's entertainment was comic acting and posture dancing, which -consists in graceful attitudes of the body, and in slow movements of -the arms and legs, particularly of the former, even to the distinct -motions of the hands and fingers. The actors consisted of a king and -queen, and male and female attendants, amounting to a dozen, all -glittering in gold and tinsel, barefooted and barelegged, their faces -painted white, and having silver guards to their nails, not less than -six inches long, pointed at the end, and recurvated: singing in rather -a melancholy strain, not altogether unmusical. There were about a -hundred beating sticks on a long board, which were changed occasionally -for another stick, which, when struck, sounded like castanets: two -drums beaten by the hands, trumpets, small horns, and an instrument -called a ranat: it is made in Lao or Laos, of graduated pieces of -bamboo, which give a sweet sound when struck with a sort of wooden -hammer covered with pieces of coarse cotton thread: it has eighteen -keys or bars, each fifteen inches long, two inches broad, strung -together, and suspended over a wooden boat-shaped box; the top part -being left open. There was another instrument also, the khong-nong; -being a series of small cymbals in a bamboo-frame, forming a large -segment of a circle. - -[Sidenote: THE PRIMA DONNA.] - -During the posture-dances, and through a considerable part of the -divertisement, the principal singer to all splendid entertainments, the -prima donna, squalled to the very top of her voice, various ditties -in a melancholy strain, until I thought she would have swooned from -exhaustion: but I was mistaken; for she was made of tougher materials, -than ever fell to the lot of any other female. She was seated on the -ground, and dressed in a dingy cotton waist and breast cloth, and her -hair arranged "a la Siamese;" it being all shaved off excepting on the -crown, which was combed perpendicularly, standing "like quills upon -the fretful porcupine." Her teeth were as black as ebony, and her lips -and gums were of a livid red: out of the corners of her mouth issued -a stream of dark coloured saliva, which, ever and anon, she wiped off -with the back of her hand, and which was finally deposited on the -waist-cloth behind: the saliva was produced by masticating areca, -siri, chunam and tobacco; the latter projecting from the right corner -of her mouth, according to the disgusting practice of the Javanese -and Siamese. A Catalani, a Sontag or a Garcia, could not feel much -flattered by this addition to their sisterhood. When the actors enter -on the floor, it is in a crouching or kneeling position, till they come -in front of the master of the feast; then all kneel, bow their heads, -and at the same time touch their foreheads with their united hands, and -then slowly lower them to the waist. The second night's entertainment -consisted mostly of representations of gladiators engaged in combat, -fighting with swords and sticks, while numerous Chinese crackers were -let off in imitation of musketry: there were pugilistic contests also -with the fists, and slapping with the flat of the hand; but there was -no real "set-to." There was also a most excellent company of vaulters -and tumblers; some of the feats were truly surprising, as the following -description will show: it was a feat of strength, which surpassed every -thing of the kind that I ever witnessed. Four men placed themselves in -a solid square, two others then got up and stood upon their shoulders, -and another man again upon theirs; a very athletic young man apparently -about sixteen years of age, by the assistance of a ladder, placed -himself in a similar position, on the shoulders of the last man, -standing however only on one foot, occasionally shifted; a boy of about -twelve, then mounting a ladder high enough for the top man to seize him -by a belt round the waist, he was raised at arms' length with perfect -ease, standing on one leg, and occasionally shifting it to the other. -After balancing him for a minute or two he threw his burden from him, -who descending turned a somerset and came without harm on his feet, -being pitched from an elevation of about twenty-four feet. There were a -great many hundred spectators all sitting on the floor, excepting the -wives and relations of the master of the feast, who sat in a narrow -gallery. Chairs were used only by our party, consisting of eleven. - -A handsome entertainment was served up to us, in a very neat large -room, to which we ascended by a flight of four stairs, leading from a -court open on two sides. The supper consisted of a great variety of -sweetmeats and fruit, served up in a very neat pretty style, on silver -salvers, placed on half a dozen tables--the chairs being borrowed -expressly for our use; the head of the table was assigned to me; -cocoa-nut water was the only drink, which was taken from the shell. -The room was decorated, at one end, with an elegant canopy, rich in -gold and silk, under which were displayed elegant glass, China ware, -and gold and silver utensils, arranged on a wooden-terraced frame, -highly gilt, painted, and varnished, flowers being interspersed here -and there. The canopy was brilliantly lighted with coloured lamps, -and made a handsome, rich, unique, but rather tawdry appearance. As -I cannot tell a Siamese man from a woman, when numbers are seated -together, so it is out of my power to say whether any females were -present, excepting the young actresses, who were all barefooted young -girls. The hair of the Siamese women is cut like that of the men; their -countenances are, in fact, more masculine than those of the males: -they are generally very fat, having very stout lower limbs and arms; -are excessively ugly; and when they open their mouths, truly hideous; -resembling the inside of a black painted sepulchre. - -[Sidenote: FIRE AT BANGKOK.] - -On the eleventh, a large fire took place, in the Christian Portuguese -company, of Santa Cruz, immediately in our neighbourhood, which -stopped at our premises. It blazed with great fury, the houses being -roofed with attap, and the bamboo-frames being covered with the same -combustible material: it produced great distress among the poor -people: their houses were probably all their property, their beds being -only a mat, and their cooking utensils, small earthen pots and a water -jar; a waist-cloth or two, and a few trifles, were easily saved; but -plunderers, in great numbers, stole their few miserable trifles as fast -as they were conveyed to the rear. About one hundred and fifty huts -were burnt, and some fifty or sixty of the sufferers took shelter in -and about our house, and some of the unoccupied rooms; and, for many -days, we supplied most of them with food. The king and the praklang -ordered them to be assisted with bamboo, &c., to rebuild their houses; -and rice, and other small articles, were sent to them by their more -fortunate neighbours. As soon as the fire commenced, every person who -could use a long-handled scoop, made of closely woven basket-work, -began throwing water on their houses, even on the opposite side of -the river. The floating houses moored along the shore near the fire, -were cast off, and it being the first of the ebb, they moved down the -river in great numbers. As many of them were on fire, they exhibited -a very novel but painful scene: four, unfortunately, were consumed, -with all their goods, and two China-men were burnt to death. On the -next flood, the river was filled with the floating houses returning. It -was predicted, by a superstitious Siamese, some days previously, that -a fire would take place, as a vulture was seen to alight on the house -of the port-captain. This officer's house, situated close to the Roman -Catholic church, was burnt--the latter building receiving no injury, -as the walls only are up; and, I suppose, from the great poverty of -the Catholic Christians, it will take many years to finish it. The old -Catholic church, in the rear, built of wood and attap, is in a very -dilapidated condition. There are four other churches at Bangkok and the -suburbs, and only one at Jutia--the rest have fallen into ruins. - -We landed, on the thirteenth, near the walls of the city, at the point -where one of the white elephants is confined: he was in a large, airy -stable, and had a great number of attendants. His colour is dusky, or -rather yellowish white, and he was far from being clean; his skin was -scurfy, and his eye very small, and of a bluish or light-gray tinge. On -account of his unruly temper, he is secured by a cable around his right -fore leg; the two fore feet are also well secured. One tusk is entirely -broken, and the other partly destroyed. He is annually confined, for -about three months, during the rutting season. We entered the city, -and saw part of the king's elephants. In one place were six noble -animals, males and females; two of the largest sized males had several -massive silver rings on their tusks; they were kept clean, and were in -fine order. There were many other elephant-stables, bordering on two -streets, which we visited. - -The streets, through which we passed, were from sixty to eighty feet in -breadth; the houses, generally, ordinary in appearance, built of boards -or brick, stuccoed, with tile roofs, or with bamboo with attap roofs. -Most of them are raised on posts, and stand five or six feet from the -ground. The streets are paved with very large-sized bricks. Stalls are -kept in front of most of the buildings, where are sold fowls and pork, -fruit and vegetables. The China, and Indian, and European goods, are -sold mostly in the floating bazars. There were few people to be seen. - -Our object in visiting the left bank of the river, was, to see an -immense edifice, in the form of a temple, which was erecting for the -purpose of burning the wang-na, generally called the second king, -who died about six months since; and whose body has been embalmed, -according to the imperfect knowledge of the Siamese in this art. The -body is first washed, and then a large quantity of crude mercury -or honey is poured into the mouth; it is then placed in a kneeling -posture, and the hands are brought together before the face in the -attitude of devotion; strips of cloth are then bound tightly round the -extremities, and the body is compressed in a similar manner, for the -purpose of squeezing out the moisture. It is then put into an air-tight -vessel, more or less expensive, according to the rank of the deceased; -(some of the vessels are even made of gold;) a hollow tube is inserted -into the mouth, passes through the upper part of the box and the roof -of the house, to convey away the effluvia; a similar tube is placed in -the bottom, which communicates with a vessel, placed there to receive -the draining from the body. The sordes thus collected, if they belong -to a prince, are conveyed, with many ceremonies, below the city, and -there emptied into the river. Should they belong to the king, they are -boiled until an oil separates, and this is used on certain occasions, -(as when his family or his descendants pay their devotions to his -departed spirit,) to anoint the singular image, called Seina, which is -generally placed in a temple, after his death. By the process, named -above, the body, in a few weeks, becomes quite dry and shrivelled. - -[Sidenote: IMMENSE TEMPLE.] - -I am fully sensible that any description I can give of the building -to which I have alluded, will fall far short of the reality; in fact -no language can convey an adequate description of it. The "_tout -ensemble_," when viewed at a distance, glittering in gold and flowers, -recalls to our recollection the brilliant and splendid castles of -fairy-land, so bewitchingly set forth in many an idle work of former -days. Many hundreds of people have been employed in its erection ever -since his death; the centre building is a large open dome, and probably -reaches to the height of eighty or ninety feet; it is supported by -immense wooden pillars of teak all in one piece--the roof is of various -indescribable forms, and differs from any I have ever seen--the parts -rise one above another till it comes to a point; from the centre rises -a high slender spire, and from the base to its apex cannot be less than -one hundred and fifty feet; the roof is covered with brass leaf, which -gives it a splendid appearance at a distance: it has a great number -of projections with various singular ornaments on their edges and the -inside of the roof is dome-shaped: beneath it was erected a small -temple, in the same form, having in the centre a high platform, to -which we ascended by a flight of steps, over which was a small spire: -it is supported upon four pillars and cannot be less than thirty-five -feet high--the roof is ornamented with neat carved work and richly -gilt--on the platform the body is to be burnt. The whole inside of -the building was painted to resemble flowers, profusely gilded, and -otherwise richly decorated with gold and silver leaf--the walls were -made of matting covered with paper and secured to bamboo-frames, as -well as the outer covering, which was painted brown, decorated with -large flowers made of brass or copper leaf and pasted on, which gave it -a brilliant appearance. Eight temples, one fourth of the size of the -great temple, stand about one hundred feet from it, so that the whole -forms a complete square, of rather less than five hundred feet on each -side; these are similarly gilt and painted, and are connected with each -other by a corridor inside; the covering outside is similar to the -great centre temple, being painted brown and overlaid with flowers. -Around the base of all these buildings are projections of about three -feet, like the base of a column, having imitation mouldings: these -are overlaid again with sheets of brass leaf, as well as the cornices -and architraves. The entrances to all the doors have a profusion of -gilt and painted ornaments as well as the base, shaft, capital, and -architrave of all the columns. The great building was surrounded at -proper intervals (so as not to appear crowded) with small temples -or sheds standing on four columns, and neatly gilt and ornamented. -A wide space on the east side was left open, on which were erected -very high narrow stages, neatly built, for the use of musicians, for -the exhibition of rope dancers, tumblers, and gladiators, or sword -fighters, pugilists, &c. At regular intervals were raised conical -umbrellas or a series of canopies, the lower one being about six feet -in diameter and each covering gradually lessening to the top, which -terminated in a point--they were about thirty feet in height and -alternately were of silver-leaf and brass-leaf, gilt, and ornamented -with flowers. The whole ground and passages were covered in with -bamboo framework, as well as the passage leading to the king's palace; -the latter had a covered walk or roof of the same material extending -the whole distance to the entrance within the enclosure. There were -four entrances through long passages to the temple-altar or place of -burning, and the whole building was surrounded with hideous images of -men about a foot high, low dwarf-trees being interspersed between them, -protected again by a low neat network railing of iron. - -[Sidenote: VISIT TO THE PRAKLANG.] - -On the fourteenth, we went to partake of a feast at the praklang's, in -company with Mr. Silveiro, the Portuguese consul, and Captain Geisinger -and the officers. This invitation was given about ten days since, -and renewed from time to time. It was conveniently arranged by the -praklang, as this day was set apart for shaving the heads of two of his -sons and a nephew. The feast could not have taken place without our -assistance, for they borrowed one of our cooks, the tables, tumblers, -wine-glasses, tureens, ladle, spoons, &c. We were informed they had no -wine, and, therefore, requested me to furnish the requisite quantity. -At three, covered barges were in waiting for us, and in a few minutes, -we found ourselves seated in the hall of audience; the praklang was -sitting in all his majesty, on a raised seat. The dinner was already -on the table. As soon as the usual compliments were over, and we had -sat down to dinner, music struck up within the house, accompanied by -female voices, which were good and natural, and the songs were not -unmusical, being rather of a plaintive cast. The court-yard, during the -feast, was thronged with people, who came, I suppose, "to see us eat," -and to see the officers in their uniforms; they were very orderly and -quiet, crouching to the ground. I have seen no instance, thus far, of -the slightest degree of rudeness, which was much and justly complained -of by Mr. Crawford and others, but quite the contrary: every mark of -respect has been shown. - -The dinner was dressed "a la Siamese and Portuguese." A stage was -erected in the court-yard for vaulters and tumblers; when the dessert -was produced, which consisted of some thirty dishes of confectionary -and fruit, they commenced their surprising feats. They consisted of -about a dozen, belong to the step-brother of the king, the prince -Cha-fa-Nooi, or Mum-fa-Nooi, and are the same that were exhibited at -the praklang's brother's, a few nights since. After the cloth was -removed, the king of Siam was given, as a toast by me, all standing; -and in return, the praklang proposed the President of the United -States, which was drunk likewise, all standing up. Two or three -complimentary toasts then followed. The tumblers continued their sports -for two hours, until sunset; then twelve young actors and actresses, -very richly clad, made their appearance, and performed pantomimes -and posture-dances, till past nine, when our party, being heartily -tired of the performances, begged leave to retire. Their sports, we -understood, were continued till after midnight; the music was the same -we had before. The three curtains, which conceal the entrances into -the interior of the house, were raised; when the players began, each -door appeared to be full of the minister's numerous wives, and in front -some dozens of his children, all bedecked with necklaces, bangles, -&c.; their skins being coloured with saffron or turmeric, for it is -considered here a great desideratum to have the skin of a light yellow. -The women were not generally so masculine in appearance as those we -saw abroad, and were of a lighter complexion, being less exposed. Some -of them appeared but a shade or two less than white. They were clad in -sombre-coloured silk waist and breast cloths, but wore no jewels; the -teeth of even the youngest were black as jet, and their lips and gums -of a livid hue. - -On the cutting of the hair from the crown of the male children, a -display is made by every person, however humble, from the firing of two -or three muskets to feasting, fireworks, dancing, music, and acting, -in all their varieties; presents are expected from all relatives, -acquaintances, and friends, which constitute a fund for the boy. A -similar amount of gifts is expected in return, upon a like occasion; -but a man high in office always has the best of the bargain. - -[Sidenote: PRESENTS.] - -To show the extreme indelicacy, in truth, grossness, of these people, -even among the higher classes, the captain of the port, Piedade, -was sent to me from the praklang, to say that the envoy from the -United States would of course make a present, as Mr. Crawford and -the Portuguese consul had done on a similar occasion; being placed -in rather a delicate situation, in regard to the treaty, having two -troublesome points unsettled, I complied with this piece of spunging, -and gave a hundred silver dollars, which were presented to the praklang -in the course of the afternoon, in a gold vase, by the general of -artillery, Benedito, with a complimentary message from me, wishing -that his children might be useful members of society, virtuous and -happy, &c. It was highly ludicrous, yet most disgusting, to see the -general of the eleven ranks of nobility, who stands second in order, -viz.: a _phaya_, crawling like a dog on all fours, dressed in a -striped silk cloak, bound round with heavy gold lace, of the fashion -of the fifteenth century, shoving the vase before him, till he came to -the praklang, and delivering it, making his obeisance to the ground -with hands united; then _backing out_ of "the presence," in the same -degrading position, till he reached me, to return the great man's -thanks. The vase was then taken just beyond our table, (one step below, -for every step, in fact, has its appropriate rank,) and delivered to -two persons, one of whom, I suppose, was the treasurer, the other the -Moorish or Chuliah secretary, who always makes his appearance, crawling -on all fours, with his black paper, slate, and pencil, whenever there -is any business to be transacted. The money was counted within our -sight, and reported to the praklang to be _all right_!!! It was but a -few days previous to this, that an elegant gold watch, set in pearls, -two cases of silks, and four elegant fillagreed silver baskets, edged -with gold, and ornamented with enamelled figures, had been presented by -me to the praklang, which I intended to deliver at the conclusion of -the treaty; but he having obtained information, by some means, that I -had a present for him, sent Piedade to inquire of what it consisted, -_and the cost_; the next day he returned, with the eldest son of the -praklang, who is one of the four household officers of the king, being -the second in rank, and called, "Luang-nai-Sit," requesting to have -them examined and an inventory taken, which was done; a hint was then -thrown out by the captain of the port, that it would facilitate my -business, if the praklang had his presents. It was evidently improper -to give them, until those intended for the king were presented; but I -complied with it, satisfied in my own mind it was done _by command_. -They were presented the same afternoon, on gold vases, when I went to -discuss certain points in the treaty. - -The king's presents, consisting of silks, elegant watches set in -pearls, and very superior silver fillagreed baskets, with gold rims, -and enamelled with birds and flowers, were shown at the same time, -at their request, and an inventory of them taken also; again they -inquired the cost of them, made some remarks respecting the colour of -the silk, and said that some other colour would have suited the king -better; that the reason why they were ordered to examine the articles -was, to know if they were _suitable_ presents to give the king. Having -expressed some slight degree of indignation at their gross conduct, -they said, such were their orders from the praklang, and that Major -Burney--who succeeded Mr. Crawford, in finally making a better treaty -with them than was ever made before, although it was effected after a -long negotiation, by the sacrifice of the personal liberty of the king -of Quedah, and their great fear of the English government, who possess -the key of their country, in holding possession of most of the strong -holds of the Burman empire, as well as Malacca and Singapore, and their -possessions at Pulo Penang--brought, among other articles, a parcel -of painted boxes, &c., which they rejected. After a slight personal -knowledge of three weeks only with this people, I infer that they are -extremely disingenuous and fickle-minded, because many articles of the -treaty, passed and agreed upon in the evening, have the following day -been subverted, or the strength of the language so materially weakened, -as to take away nearly its whole force. That they are great intriguers, -past history will confirm: the present king, the illegitimate son -of the late monarch, by the sudden death of his father, aided by -bribes, placed himself on the throne, to the exclusion of the eldest -legitimate son, who, on the death of his father, fled the place, and -became a Talapoy to save his life. Cha-fa-Nooi, the next in succession, -has a small stipend allowed him, and lives in what is called the -Portuguese fort, opposite the city: his life is safe, as long as his -eldest brother lives. - -That these people are highly superstitious, is shown by their constant -watching for the flight of vultures, and the worshipping of idols; -and the ten thousand follies attached to the Budhist religion, is -sufficient evidence. That they are servile, is a necessary consequence, -arising out of their despotic government. Subordination of rank is -carried to a most degrading and revolting point; true politeness -therefore is destroyed; they are abject in the extreme to superiors, -and most insolent and disdainful to inferiors. It appears to be -impossible for an inferior, to stand erect and manly, in presence of a -superior: they are sluggish, ignoble and crouching. A people who are -habitually crawling upon their knees and elbows, and performing "the -knock-head ceremony," cannot be otherwise than ungraceful and inelegant -in their manners. If they were allowed to carry arms, they would be -constrained to be civil and polite to each other; but custom sanctions -the right of avenging private wrongs. They are a most extravagantly -vain people; are reputed to be very deficient in courage; excessively -lascivious and immoral; of which proofs are presented at every step. -Temporary marriages are so notorious, that to sell a daughter wholly to -a stranger, or for a stipulated term of time, is as common among the -middling and lower classes of people, as to sell any common commodity, -usually to be found in a bazar. Custom has also fixed a certain price -for a certain rank. It is said by Mr. Gutzlaff, that they are in -expectation of the coming of the Saviour of mankind, and that the -people who are to effect a change in their religion, are to come from -the West, (meaning Europe and America.) - -If the overturn of an idle, superstitious and debauched priesthood -like the Talapoys, (or Talapoins,) who are said to amount to upward -of ten thousand generally, in Bang-kok and its neighbourhood, can be -effected, what a glorious field will there be opened, to enlighten a -nation who are not blood-thirsty or revengeful, but naturally mild and -tractable, and exceedingly charitable to distressed objects. They are -willing to be instructed, and gladly accept of any books in their own -language, which are presented to them. A better form of government -would of course make them a better people, but they are now bowed down -by oppression, and their highly productive soil is almost untilled, -because the hard earnings of the labourer are wrung from him by the -rapacious cruelty of his rulers. I omitted to say, that during the -evening's entertainment at the praklang's, a brown, highly varnished, -and gilt seat, was brought in and covered with carpets, cushions, &c., -and placed on the floor a short distance from where we were sitting, -and shortly after, (preceded by crawling slaves,) a sword-bearer, -others carrying highly wrought gold vases, containing areca and a -water goblet, a small tea apparatus, &c.; then followed the prince -Cha-fa-Nooi, or Mom-fa Nooi, and, without any ceremony whatever, took -possession of the seat without noticing in any degree the praklang: -when the prince entered, the praklang left his usual seat, which was of -the same height as the prince's, and seated himself on the floor, with -his feet resting on a broad landing, leading to the upper floor: this -is an acknowledgment of inferiority in rank. On this landing, at his -feet, reposed the praklang's son and brother, and a step below, were -his chubah, secretary, &c., &c.: actors beneath the last, and a host of -crawlers. The prince retired after sitting a short time, but without -noticing his host, who immediately returned to the upper or highest -seat. - -During the afternoon of the feast of the entertainment, the supercargo, -a Chuliah, belonging to the English brig Highland Chief, Captain Henry, -from Madras, came crawling in on all fours from the inner gate, and -presented, on salvers, some coarse Indian calicoes and lawns. They -were received with a sullen air, and I could not perceive that the -slightest notice was taken of them, when the praklang was informed of -the present. This same supercargo was one of the crouchers, placed on -the seat with the captain of the port, when we paid the introductory -visit to the minister. - -[Sidenote: FOX-BATS.] - -I went to visit the great resort of the fox-bats, on a branch of the -river leading to the sea. We found them in immense numbers within the -grounds owned by mendicant Talapoys, whereon were many temples in a -state of ruin. These birds were hanging by their claws, head downward, -where they remain during the day, occupying the limbs of many hundreds -of large trees. Having procured some, we measured one, and found it -was forty-three inches in length, measuring from one extremity of its -wings to the other: it has the head of a fox; the body is covered with -long hair, and it has a most unsavoury, strong, foxy smell; it uses its -teeth when fighting, but its main defence is in a hooked claw, placed -at the middle joint of the wings, by which it occasionally suspends -itself. In walking about the grounds of the pagodas, we observed -hundreds of small conical mounds, which had been moulded by a form made -of plantain stock, and surmounted by small paper flags fastened to a -slender rod; these were said to be offerings made by some votaries of -Budhistical nonsense. - -In passing up the river a day or two since, we saw a snake of about -twelve feet in length, and about eight inches in circumference; he was -swimming about close to our boat, and did not appear to notice us, -excepting when we struck at him with a paddle. Crows, vultures, and -sparrows, abound every where, and we find the former very annoying to -us, occupying the trees in the area of our house, pouncing upon the -cooks' premises, continually, and carrying off large pieces of meat -or fish. The most common reptiles about our premises are lizards; -several beautiful species are found every where. We have, among -others, the tokay or ghecko in great numbers. This name is given to -it here from its singular harsh and monotonous cry, which sounds -like its name, to-kay. Throughout the night, these noises are made -at intervals, probably of half an hour, commencing with a loud cry, -and gradually growing weaker, making pauses of perhaps five or six -seconds, between the cries; they are repeated from three to nine or -ten times before exhaustion takes place. These reptiles are frequently -seen eighteen inches in length, having red and light-green spots, -with many tubercles. Fish are abundant in the Menam, and the Siamese, -notwithstanding their pretended aversion to taking animal life, do -not hesitate to eat fish, flesh, or fowl, if it is killed for them. -All these articles are sold daily. Beef is not to be had but there is -plenty of pork. Fruit is by no means abundant here at this season, -although this is said to be the greatest fruit country in all Asia. -A few small mangoes have made their appearance, but the stones are -so large that little fruit is to be found on them. We have seen no -oranges excepting those brought by China junks--a few poor watermelons -and guavas, which are a tasteless fruit, and plantains, bananas, and -cocoa-nuts: the latter are in abundance, and the water from the young -ones is very refreshing. - -[Sidenote: FRUITS.] - -Here, for the first time, I tasted the water of a certain delicious -kind of cocoa-nut, which was frequently sent by his majesty; it was -highly flavoured, and tasted like burnt almonds. Oil is made in large -quantities, and is used, when fresh, for cooking, burning, and for -anointing the skin, and nourishing the hair. A little later, and -the delicious mangosteen will be ripe, the orange, the durian, the -pineapple, and lichi, will be in abundance, besides all the other -tropical fruits common to this climate. The only vegetables we have yet -seen on our table are the sweet potatoe, yam, garlic, onion, Indian -corn, beans, peas, and _celery_, which latter is used in soups only. - -The valley of the Menam produces marsh-rice, of various qualities, and -in the greatest abundance; it is often exported in large quantities, -by license from the king. Rice is almost the only article of food used -by the inhabitants; this vegetable is mixed with a little balachang -and compound of shrimps, or the spawn of shrimps, or small fish, mixed -with salt, and dried in the sun, and then moistened with fish-pickle: -it is not only unsavoury to Europeans, but some of it is most offensive -to the smell. The inhabitants have but two meals a day, in the morning -and evening; the richer add tea, which is drunk in great quantities, -without sugar or milk, during the day. Chewing areca and smoking -cigars, are common to all, even among small children, and both are -constantly used during their waking hours. - - - - -CHAPTER XVII. - - PRESENTATION AT THE PALACE OF BANG-KOK--DESCRIPTION--ROYAL - ELEPHANT--WHITE ELEPHANTS--KING OF SIAM--GREAT TEMPLE OF - GUATAMA--CITY OF BANG-KOK--TEMPLE OF WAT-CHAN-TONG, AND FIGURE OF - BUDHA--BANYAN TREE--FIRE-FEEDERS--MISSIONARIES. - - -[Sidenote: PRESENTATION AT THE PALACE.] - -On Monday, the eighteenth, arrangements having been previously made, -three large boats were sent by the praklang, to convey us to the -palace, for the purpose of being presented to his majesty. On the -previous evening, the second praklang, or the phaya-phiphat kossa, -with a long train of attendants, came to visit us, with the ostensible -object of talking farther respecting certain articles, which the -praklang wished to have altered in the treaty. After a few minutes' -conversation upon this subject, the audience of the king was spoken -of, and he said that certain ceremonies, according to court etiquette, -must be observed on our visit. I replied, that every proper respect -would, of course, be shown to his majesty; but that nothing mean or -servile must be expected. He then said, on our entrance into the hall -of audience, on passing the screen, three bows were expected in the -European style; that, on sitting down, in the Asiatic style, (as no -chairs are there ever used,) our feet must be placed behind us, that -three bows were then to be made, by uniting the hands and touching the -forehead, and lowering them to the breast. Seeing nothing unreasonable -or degrading in this formality, it was agreed to, excepting that we -refused to bow the head, like the Siamese. On the king's naming us -personally, we were to bow in the usual style of recognisance with -us; and when the curtain was drawn on his appearance, we were to make -three such bows, as might suit us. This was all very well; and I was -glad to find the taking off the shoes was not spoken of, and entering -in a stooping position, which could not have been complied with, as -it was by Mr. Crawford, when on a mission a few years since, who, to -effect his purpose, (in which he totally failed,) complied with their -insulting demands. The Siamese amuse themselves with talking upon -this subject even now, and say, that the gentlemen belonging to the -mission, were obliged to walk ankle deep in mud and water; that some -of them lost their shoes, they being thrown away purposely by the -Siamese servants; of course, by order of their masters. Once or twice, -the subject was named to me, and I severely reproved them for their -disgraceful conduct. Major Burney, it seems, on a more recent mission, -agreed to comply with the demand of taking off his shoes, but on the -condition that he kept on his hat: they, however, preferred he should -keep on his shoes, and take off his hat. - -Our mode of conveyance from the water-side to the palace, was agreed -upon previously, viz.: A palanquin, with eight bearers, dressed in red -uniforms, and caps to correspond, was to be provided for myself, and -ten horses for the other gentlemen, properly caparisoned, according -to rank. We embarked at nine o'clock, and were, in a few minutes, at -the palace-stairs. Spectators were numerous, in the floating houses -and boats, on our way; and on landing, the place was thronged with -them, leaving sufficient space, however, for the procession, there -being officers in attendance to keep the multitude in order. However, -every thing was well conducted, and without noise. Excellent horses, -handsomely caparisoned, with elegant saddles and silk bridles, -breastplate and head-stall, ornamented with various-coloured gems, -decked in rich embroidery, were provided: each horse was led by one of -the king's servants. - -The procession moved on, the envoy being placed in front, through two -long streets, passing a gate of the city, and finally arrived at one of -the gates to the palace-yard, where we found a guard, dressed in red -broadcloth coats, and waist-cloths of every colour, with and without -hats and caps, bearing muskets with black barrels and red stocks. We -proceeded to the hall of justice, where we dismounted. - -Fronting the building, were ten large elephants, well caparisoned, -having a guide on their necks, with his hook and spear fixed to a -staff, while another sat on the rump with a similar weapon; and in -the centre, a standard-bearer, having a spear, to which was attached -a long tassel of elephant's hair: these men wore red turbans and -neat parti-coloured dresses, well fitted to the shape. We ascended -two or three steps to a landing, which was crowded with people of -various descriptions: from this we advanced one step, which led to the -floor, being escorted by the officers in waiting, by Col. Pasqual, -and others. We were desired to wait a short time, till his majesty -had arrived in the hall, which was at a short distance. The floor was -covered with a good Persian carpet, apparently made for the place. -Among others present, were ten Pequan officers of rank, sitting on the -landing, outside the pillars which supported the roof, for none were -permitted to be on the floor where we were but the interpreters, and -these, according to etiquette, sat on the floor. The Pequan officers -were dressed in gold-flowered crimson silk, and long jackets, reaching -below the knee, and turbans of silk of the same colour, trimmed with -gold fringe: all were sitting in the Asiatic style. Having waited some -time, we were told the king was ready to receive us. In proceeding to -the hall, through a very spacious and extensive yard, we saw, on our -right, drawn out, standing on a grass-plot, under high canopies, eight -other elephants, richly caparisoned, having no riders, but plenty of -attendants. We passed on--preceded by a number of Chuliahs, or Moors, -having elegant silk dresses, reaching to the feet, and turbans, some -of flowered crimson: others with white silk having gold flowers, and -turbans of the same--through several hundred musicians, in red coats -and caps. In the rear were soldiers, placed in pens, in a crouching -posture, armed with spears and shields, with the interpreters and -peace-officers. The music, consisting of drums, brass horns, trumpets, -&c., &c., struck up a most deafening noise, on our entering within -their lines, which ceased when we arrived within the walls of the hall. - -Every thing was conducted with the utmost decorum. Just before reaching -the hall, we passed a most noble spotted elephant--he had four massive -gold rings, which must have weighed several pounds each, studded with -jewels, secured around each tusk: a raised seat, a foot or two above -the ground, was fixed for him to stand on, because he was a royal -elephant, and could only be mounted by the king: a servant was feeding -him with fresh cut grass and bananas. Facing us was part of the king's -stud of fine Arabian horses, placed under a high shed, richly, and -in fact, superbly dressed, attended by their keepers, which we were -requested to admire. The spectacle thus far was quite imposing, and it -seems every thing had been arranged to make a favourable impression. -The elephants were placed in those positions, where they would show -to the greatest advantage--as well as the king's stud of horses, the -immense number of military with a vast many officers richly clad, many -of them being most splendidly dressed--the singular unique style of -architecture of the king's palace--a large number of cannon placed -under open sided sheds, the hall of audience, &c., &c., illumined by a -brilliant sun and an unclouded sky, gave to every thing an Asiatic and -novel appearance. - -[Sidenote: AUDIENCE OF KING.] - -We entered at length the vestibule through a line of soldiers, and -passed to the right of a Chinese screen of painted glass, into the -presence of his majesty. There lay prostrate, or rather on all fours -resting on their knees and elbows, with hands united and head bowed -low, all the princes and nobility of the land: it was an impressive -but an abasing sight, such as no freeman could look on, with any other -feelings than those of indignation and disgust. We halted in front of -the presents which were delivered the day previous, being piles of -silks, rich fillagreed silver baskets, elegant gold watches studded -with large pearls: they were well disposed to make a show. Having gone -through the first ceremony of bowing, we sat down on a carpet: on our -being seated the prostrate slaves around us (being the great men of -the land) bowed simultaneously three times to the ground, in a slow -solemn manner, and we joined in the ceremony as had been previously -agreed upon. The king was seated under a canopy, in the Asiatic style, -on a cushion of red silk velvet, on the lower and more advanced of -the two thrones, which occupied the upper end of the apartment: this -was a square seat raised some half dozen feet from the floor. Every -thing was blazing in gold, in and about the two thrones: the larger -and unoccupied one was of an hexagonal shape, and resembled a church -pulpit, so that the king's person when seated in it, can be visible -only through the open spaces, in the form of Gothic windows, about four -feet in height by one and a half and two in width. One of these windows -is in front, and one on each side of the throne. A pair of curtains of -gold cloth formed a partition between him and several individuals of -the royal family, who lay crouching just without, on separate carpets, -leaving a wide open space between the throne and the two interpreters, -who were midway of the hall. Before the curtain and on either side, -were eight or ten umbrellas of various sizes: these consist of a series -of canopies of eight or ten tiers, decreasing in size upward. - -His majesty is a very stout fleshy man, apparently about forty-five -years of age, of a pleasing countenance. He was dressed in a cloth of -gold tissue around the waist, while a mantle was thrown gracefully -over the left shoulder. Four noblemen's sons were seated at the base -of the throne, at the rear and sides, having long-handled pear-shaped -fans, richly gilt, which they kept in constant motion. A few questions -were addressed by the king in an audible voice: they were repeated -in a lower tone by the phaya phiphat, or second praklang, to the -phaya churat, or chief of the Chuliahs, by whom they were whispered -to the captain of the port, who interpreted them to us in the same -low tone--the answers were returned through the same channels by us; -inquiring, in the first place, as to the health of the President -and all the great men in our country--our own healths--those of the -officers and crew--how long we had been from America--where we had -been, and whence bound--desiring me to acquaint the praklang with all -my wants, that they might be supplied, &c., &c., &c. The curtain was -now drawn and his majesty disappeared; the court made three solemn -kotows, and we our three salams, and then retired. The hall is probably -one hundred and twenty feet in length by sixty in breadth, and has -seven or eight stout square pillars on each side, probably built of -brick and stuccoed, which support the roof; the highest part of the -ceiling must be thirty-five or forty feet, is painted vermillion, -having gilt starlike ornaments: the pillars and sides of the wall -were painted so as to resemble paper hangings, and were altogether in -bad taste: common looking-glasses, and ordinary European paintings of -men with frizzled and powdered hair, were placed against the wall. -The floor was covered with a new kidderminster carpet, such as may be -bought in the United States for about a dollar and a quarter a yard; in -fact there was no richness or elegance displayed; excepting about the -throne there were neither jewels nor costly workmanship: the dress of -the king himself was by no means extraordinary. - -We were surrounded by Siamese, Cambojans, Burmese, Pequans, Malays, -Chinese, Cochin-Chinese, Moors, and people of Lao, dressed all in -the costumes of their respective countries, but all of them at the -disposal of the "master of lives," as the king of Siam is styled. It -was before observed, that the princes were nearest the throne, on a -separate carpet; behind them, on another carpet, were the praklang and -the higher officers of state, as precedence is decided here by relative -vicinity to the throne: the lowest officers admitted, are those at the -very entrance of the hall. When the courtiers enter, they crawl in on -all fours, and, when dismissed, crawl out again backward, "a la crab," -or "a la lobster;" and when the numbers are great, their appearance is -most ludicrous. During the audience the utmost silence was observed by -the courtiers; not an eye was even cast toward us until it was ended. -One would suppose that all who were there present, were assembled -before the throne of Him who is to _sit_ in judgment at the latter day, -rather than before a temporal monarch; there were such a stillness and -solemnity at times, that the scene was quite oppressive. The audience, -which lasted about half an hour, being ended, his majesty ordered us to -be shown the white and other elephants, the temples, &c., within the -palace-walls. - -On our exit from the building, the music again struck up and ended -when we passed the lines. We were first conducted by the interpreters -and some half dozen officers, to the stables of the more valuable -elephants, kept within the enclosure. The first shown to us was the -sacred white elephant, a more gentle and peaceable character than the -one secured without the walls, near the river; he was much whiter -also, but this might be owing to his being kept cleaner, his eyes were -larger, sound, and healthy in appearance, and the skin free from scurf. -I was particularly requested to feed him with bananas and sugar-cane, -which he received from my hands most gently, rubbing his long proboscis -once over the back of my hand and then made three salams with his -trunk. Fresh cut grass was placed in small bundles before him, and when -annoyed by the flies and moschetoes, he would take a wisp and brush -his legs, throwing it afterward on his back. In this stall was a white -monkey, of the size of a small dog, a perfect Albino, the iris, pink, -&c., &c.; he was kept in a cage, and appeared never to be quiet for -a single second. We passed on to four other stalls, which contained -spotted elephants; they are noble animals, and I consider them more -worthy of notice than the white ones. We passed on to the great temple -of the palace, which was repairing, where Budha sat enthroned on high, -of a gigantic size, shining with gold and yellow cloths, and protected -with a yellow umbrella. The walls were covered with historical -paintings, relative to the wanderings of Rama; and the outer courts -were filled with descript and non-descript animals of all sorts, in -plaster, stone, and marble. Within the columns, plates of artificial -fruits were placed; the favourite lotus was growing in large ornamented -stone and porcelain vases, and there were artificial ones in stone. Two -warriors, of immense size, guarded the entrance as usual. The doors -were splendidly adorned with mother-of-pearl, inlaid so as to represent -flowers and fruit of various elegant devices. The thermometer being at -nearly a hundred, we remained but a short time, being much exhausted by -fatigue and the intense heat of the sun. We returned in the same order -in which we came, being much gratified with our reception, and rejoiced -that it was at an end. - -[Sidenote: PRIESTS--INUNDATIONS.] - -I have frequently asked the question, How many priests there are -belonging to the different pagodas? The answer has been always, -sometimes ten, and sometimes twenty thousand; there is no particular -number. Pray, what is the cause of this great difference in numbers, -at different times? Oh! it depends altogether upon the price of rice; -if rice is abundant, priests are fewer in number than when it is -scarce; for a great number of them enter the priesthood for a short -time only, when they have nothing to eat: this is the reason, why there -are so many small boys dressed in yellow, because their parents have -no food for them. During the great inundation of 1831, the number of -priests doubled, in consequence of the scarcity of provisions. This -vicinity was, until that time, remarkable for the great abundance and -variety of its excellent fruit. In the course of three months, during -which the country was so submerged, it was almost totally destroyed, -as well as the crops of rice and cane. In speaking one day of the -extreme servility of the lower classes to the higher, I was informed, -that the praklang, in coming out of his house during the overflow of -the river, always had the usual homage paid to him by the people, of -kneeling or stooping when he passed them; and that they have been -frequently seen so deeply immersed in water, as to be obliged to rise -a little to prevent its entering their mouths, and suffocating them. -This degrading homage, I have seen frequently paid him by his eldest -son, Luang-nai-Sit, crawling on all fours into his father's presence, -and bowing his head to the ground, with united hands. He is about -twenty-five years of age--has several wives and many children; he is -of an inquiring mind, but said to be very intriguing and cringing to -those who can promote his interests. He says, "his father frequently -sends for him to breakfast, and the constrained position in which he -is placed (on all fours) prevents his eating much, he, therefore, -unfortunately suffers before he can obtain his dinner." - -Among the queer articles of export from this place to China, are -snake-skins, which are there used for musical instruments principally, -and also for medicinal purposes. Many of the reptiles, from which these -are taken, are of large size; and it is said are upward of thirty feet -in length, and wide in proportion. The floating houses on the river, -when sunk nearly to the water's edge, by the decaying of the bamboos -on which they rest, are frequently annoyed with them, for they are -always in search of poultry. Among other methods of taking them, is -this: a chicken is placed at the further end of a bamboo coop, near -the door, over-night; a hole is made in this coop of a sufficient size -to admit the entrance of a snake of fifteen or twenty feet in length; -if the reptile enter, after having gorged himself with his prey, he is -unable to get out, and is then easily killed. The skin is then dried, -and rolls of it are found suspended from the ceiling of the floating -shops. The entire carcasses of tigers are also exported to China, -for the people of that country ignorantly suppose them to possess -great medicinal qualities. Last year, sixty carcasses paid duties on -exportation, besides a large number smuggled; they are generally in a -very putrid state long before they are shipped. - -The thick hide of the rhinoceros is also another article of export to -the same country, and by a peculiar process, it is made into, and used -as a nutritious jelly. - -[Sidenote: BUDHA--CANALS.] - -_March twenty-seventh._ Reconnoitring in my boat yesterday evening, -on the left bank of the river, up one of the numerous canals, we saw -under a common shed, a short distance from a wat or temple, a number -of idols. We stepped on shore to examine them, and at the feet of the -great idol, lay a poor wretch, dying with the confluent small-pox; -his bloated features and his person, covered with pustules, made him -a disgusting object; he had crawled thither that morning, and had -brought half a dozen saucers of sweetmeats, cooked rice, and fruit, and -placed them on the lap of Budha, praying no doubt most fervently, that -he would be pleased to cure him of his foul disease: but his cries were -of no avail to this gilded block of wood, although they lasted from -morning until eventide; for he died that night, at the feet of Budha. - -_March twenty-eighth._ This morning, it being very high water, we -entered on the canal which runs near to the southern wall of the city; -passing along it, about a mile and a quarter, we turned to the left, -and proceeding along about the same distance, we again shot out into -the main river: thus taking a complete circuit of the city. The wall -is about twenty feet in height; not a piece of cannon was seen, nor -even a solitary sentry taking his weary round; but a number of canals -passed under the wall, and were filled with market-boats: there are no -portcullises ready to drop, in case of a rebellion, or the invasion of -an enemy; these canals, therefore, offer a ready and easy entrance. The -houses in the suburbs in many places, are built immediately against -the walls. No defence could be made, against even a small disciplined -force, for there is no regular military force in the kingdom; the -soldiers are never drilled with muskets, the government being unwilling -to trust them with arms in their hands: their mode of warfare is -altogether desultory. Many parts of the canal which surrounds the -city, were much crowded with pedlars' boats, containing coarse cloth, -paper, brass, and iron utensils, &c.; others with salt, sapan-wood, -cotton in small baskets, areca-nut, siri-leaf, chunam, coloured with -turmeric, dried fish, oil, sugar, balachang, fresh pork, fish, fruit, -and vegetables. - -The back of the city bore, altogether, a rural appearance; the banks -were thickly settled, people of all ages were bathing, washing at the -same time their simple dresses; children were seen asleep in short -square-net hammocks, and the mother lying at full length on a mat, -chewing areca-nut, or smoking a cigar, propelling with her foot the -hanging cradle; the cat and dog lay stretched also at full length on -the platform, overcome with the intense heat of the day; the banks -were, however, well shaded by the many trees which occupied every -vacant place. The mango, now fully laden with its oblong green fruit; -the religious fig-tree with its broad and pointed leaf; the plantain -bending beneath the weight of its fruit; the areca-palm with its -slender and regular stem, and brush-like head; and the useful cocoa-nut -and bamboo, were seen towering in every direction. We visited a number -of the king's boat-houses, and saw a canoe one hundred and five feet -long, made from a single teak-tree, excepting the high curved stem and -stern; we saw also, hundreds of useless boats, most of them intended -for war, while others were for pleasure, being neatly gilded about each -quarter. The war-boats would be altogether useless in a sea-fight. - -[Sidenote: TEMPLE OF WAT-CHAN-TONG.] - -_March thirtieth._ Yesterday we visited a wat or pagoda, built by -the present king, when he was prince Chroma Chiat; it is called -wat-chan-tong, or "the temple of the golden sandal tree;" it is -situated about six or seven miles from the outlet of Bang-kok Yai, -into the Menam. The company consisted of the Rev. Mr. Jones, and -Doctor Ticknor; a boat and rowers were sent to us by the praklang. -The buildings are more substantial, and in better order, than any -I have heretofore seen; hewn granite steps and pillars were about -the principal entrances; the floors of the temples were of marble -tessellated; the walls leading to the temples, and the dwellings of -the Talapoys, were of square pieces of split granite; and there was a -greater air of neatness about them, than any we have yet viewed. Noble -banyan, and the religious fig-tree, shaded the walks; large porcelain -figures of men, and non-descript beasts, embellished the fronts of -churches, the entrances into the outer courts. - -There are two islets near to the landing place, having on them -miniature temples, and small images, overshadowed by noble banyan -trees, which are to be found in great abundance every where in the -vicinity of Bang-kok. It is one of the most curious of nature's -productions: each full-sized tree is a grove; for every branch, on -reaching the ground, vegetates and increases to a large trunk, and -these again send forth others, till, from old age and exhaustion, the -parent dies, and the progeny gradually decay for want of sustenance, -leaving a forest in ruins. It affords most beautiful walks, vistas, -and cool recesses; and bears a small fig, which is scarlet when ripe, -and affords a luxuriant repast to monkeys and peacocks, and other -birds, which inhabit this father of trees, that shades and protects -their young, in cool recesses, from a burning sun, where they sport -and idle their leisure hours away, free from cares, excepting from -the mischievous monkey, which robs them of their eggs, or the wily -serpent, that beguiles them of their tender progeny. - -The principal wat is occupied by a colossal figure of Budha, lying on -his right side, supported by the elbow and hand, and seven square and -triangular pillows, with ornamented ends of coloured glass. It is of -the enormous length of _sixty-three_ feet, having on its head a high -peaked cap. The "phra-bat," or "holy feet," are each six feet nine -inches in length, having five toes, all of equal length, being one less -than the Budha of the Burmese. It is made of brick and stuccoed; but -overlaid with heavy gilding, highly burnished. It was covered, on its -exposed or left side, with yellow, or talapoy cloth, and canopied by -an enormous yellow umbrella. Many priests and young students of the -monastery accompanied us. They were asked why the idol was protected -with cloths, and the umbrella? They replied, that the great Budha -would be offended if neglected, and he ought to be kept warm. As the -thermometer was little short of one hundred, and we were panting for -breath, with the perspiration running from us in streams, they were -told that all clothing was oppressive; but they said, they dared not -neglect him. They were also asked, how long he was to lie? They said, -about three thousand years, when Budha would be annihilated, or his -authority rather would cease. - -The ceiling of the wat was painted of a rich vermillion, and "thickly -inlaid with patines of bright gold." The walls, and inside of the doors -and window-shutters, were entirely covered with rural and aquatic -scenes, birds, flowers, &c., &c.; all rich with gold and beautiful -colours, highly varnished, displaying a cultivated taste. The doors, -at the entrance, were most splendidly inlaid with mother-of-pearl, -wrought into various and elegant devices. Surrounding the wall of the -court-yard, was an extensive corridor, containing eighty Budhas, of -about four feet high, in a sitting posture generally, while others -were standing. At the feet of each were two smaller sized devotees, -kneeling and facing them, with their hands spread out and united in -the attitude of prayer. These, together with a group of eight in one -corner, made, altogether, two hundred and forty-six images, being all -highly burnished with gold. Other images, of women, are scattered about -the court; and the two gigantic warriors, as usual, placed as guards at -its common entrance. The Indian lotus was growing in handsome vases of -granite, porcelain, and marble. There was also a large gilt image in a -sitting posture, made of a composition of copper, tin, and zinc. The -ceiling, walls, &c., were nearly similarly painted to the other, having -a tessellated marble pavement; but the doors were painted black, with -borders of richly gilded flowers. A devotee had taken up his lodging -within the temple, near one of the doors, and was then praying at the -feet of the image. He passed his days there, and at night watered his -couch with his tears, in the vain expectation that, at his death, Budha -would cause his soul to be transmigrated into a higher and holier state -of existence. - -There were about one hundred and fifty Talapoys generally at this -monastery. Here, also, was a small deep bathing place, having in it a -number of small alligators--they are common. We passed a great number -of temples, and counted twenty-five on this route. The banks were -thickly inhabited, having a low but rich country; and the various fruit -and flowering forest trees, by which it was overshadowed, contributed -greatly to its beautiful scenery. Boats were continually passing in -great numbers, variously laden. The fronts of the cottages being open, -all the domestic operations were fully seen. At the foot of the ladder, -childhood and old age were seen, bathing in the turbid waters of this -tributary of the Menam, all seemingly happy, although living under one -of the most despotic governments in the world. - -On our return, observing an artificial mound near a small wat with a -gilded front, we were induced to stop and examine it; it was in height -about twenty feet, built of brick and overlaid with rough pieces of -rock. We entered by a flight of steps into some dark winding passages -in imitation of caverns--on the step was a small temple court and a -relic of gautama, which we were unable to see owing to the Talapoy who -had charge of it being asleep. The thermometer being at ninety-five, -with a dead oven-like heat, we were glad to retreat to some cooler -place. Proceeding on by another route, we saw a number of Talapoys, -collected near to a place for the burning of the dead, under a high -pyramidal shed placed amid a grove of the religious fig-tree: we landed -and proceeded to the spot. In the centre of the building, on a brick -platform, was placed a bier of seven or eight feet in height--the sides -which concealed the body were covered with white muslin and the top, -&c., ornamented with yellow tinsel; the bier, I suppose, was of wood, -but it was neatly covered with plantain stock, and being fresh cut -resembled ivory with a slight tinge of yellow: fanciful devices were -cut in the sides and red paper inserted, which gave it a very neat -and finished appearance. In each corner were raised platforms, and -on one of them sat fifteen or twenty Talapoys, having before them a -feast of nice things, such as rice cooked in various ways, sweetmeats -and fruits, and a pile of yellow cloth, all of which were presents, -from the parents of a dead daughter, lying before these senseless -worshippers of idols. They were talking aloud and laughing, apparently -insensible to the solemn occasion for which they were assembled: being -disgusted with their conduct, and finding that the ceremony would not -take place until three in the afternoon, we left the place intending to -return in due time. - -[Sidenote: FIRE-FEEDERS.] - -At the appointed hour, we were again there, but the burning had -commenced half an hour previously: a part of the scull was remaining, -the head having separated from the body: the back bone was nearly -entire as well as part of the limbs; two grim looking fellows were -replenishing and stirring the fire with three-pronged forks, smoking -cigars, and laughing as though they were attending a baker's oven. They -were constantly employed in going from this funeral pile to another, -situated in the open air, a short distance off, where was consuming the -body of a dead slave. - -Besides the "fire-feeders," there was assembled a party of young -females, acquaintances of the deceased girl, waiting to collect the -unconsumed bones, that they might be conveyed to the mourning parents: -they were decent in their behaviour, but there were no visible signs -of grief on their countenances at this sad spectacle; they were seated -on one of the raised platforms, chewing areca-nut, and talking with -considerable earnestness--but the instant they saw us, they started on -their feet, and exhibited very strong symptoms of curiosity; probably, -many of them had never seen a white person before, and our dress, of -course, appeared strange to those who were only accustomed to the sight -of a waist-cloth. They inquired of a gentleman who spoke Siamese and -English, if we came to see a body burnt, or what was the object of our -visit: we told them it was to see a body burnt, and to view the temple -near by. They asked us to look at the remains, on the funeral pile, and -see if we could tell whether it was a male or female, (for the natives -are under the impression that Europeans know every thing, and all the -European race even if born in America, are called Europeans.) They were -told after taking a view of them, that they were those of a female. At -this answer, they held up their hands, and appeared to be exceedingly -astonished, for they were not aware that we had ascertained this fact -in the morning. We immediately left them, not wishing to be questioned -further, and they are under the delusion without doubt, that we do, -indeed, "know every thing." - -The poor slave who has just been mentioned, must have had a friend who -was willing to pay the expenses of the burning to the Talapoys, or -_alias_ the phratais or phra-bo-coots as they are called in Siamese, -otherwise he would have been thrown without ceremony into the Menam and -become food for fish or alligators. A worthless priesthood, who _daily_ -spunge the most abject in society of their scanty pittance of rice, -clothing, or fruit, refuse even a few sticks of wood to consume the -dead bodies of their poor benefactors, and to recite a few heathenish -prayers without being amply paid for their trouble; but the priests of -Budha are not the only ones who exact payment for what is obviously -their bounden duty. Some of the Christian churches, even in this -vicinity, as well as those of other countries, will be paid for burying -their dead, and saying mass for the repose of departed souls. - -[Sidenote: BURNING THE DEAD.] - -The ceremony of burning the dead may be witnessed almost daily, between -noon and three o'clock, within the precincts of the temples. During the -ceremony, music of a most discordant kind is frequently introduced. The -instruments are noisy and consist of gongs, drums, &c., &c. Prayers, -written in the Pah language on slips of palm-leaf, are first read by a -priest from a pulpit; females and males set beneath it each holding a -taper: the language is probably unintelligible to every one present, -for most of the priests can barely read it, and few of them understand -it. - -These places are generally thronged with idle persons, who take no part -in the ceremonies, and walk in and out talking and smoking cigars, &c., -&c. At the head of the coffin is a piece of white cloth; a number of -priests take hold of it on each side, reciting certain prayers--this -being ended, the coffin and bier are dismantled, the body is washed by -one of the servants of the pagoda, who is always paid a small fee for -this most disgusting piece of service. Bodies are frequently kept for -days in this sultry climate, and then the office is no sinecure--it -is truly loathsome. The ablution being concluded, a layer of wet earth -is laid on the bier and dry wood is piled upon it--the body is then -replaced in the coffin, and carried three successive times around the -altar by the nearest male relatives, and afterward deposited upon -the pile; tapers and incense rods are distributed to all who will -receive them; a priest delivers a final prayer, then sets fire to the -funeral pile, and is followed by all who receive tapers and rods for -that purpose. The scull is always broken with a heavy bar of iron, -to prevent, as they say, an explosion and scattering of the bones -and brains. Small pieces of money are now distributed to objects of -charity, who are always in waiting at these places at the usual hours, -and are disappointed if there are no rich victims ready for the funeral -pile; sometimes the male relatives throw bundles of cloth over the -pile--those on the opposite side carefully catch them, and in other -cases it is dispensed with. - -No explanation of this singular piece of ceremony could ever be -obtained. I ought to have mentioned, previously, a horrible custom -which occasionally prevails here: many Siamese give directions that -their dead bodies shall be stripped of the flesh and given to dogs, and -carniverous birds, which infest the neighbourhood of the altars, and -the bones only are burnt. This is considered to be both laudable and -charitable. The unconsumed bones are carefully collected, prayers are -recited over them, and various ceremonies are performed by the priests. -They are then burnt to ashes, reduced into a paste with water, and then -formed into a small figure of Budha, and gilded; the latter is then -placed among the household gods, or deposited in a temple of Budha. If -any important branch of the family die, it is carried in procession, -and this is called "the procession of the bones of their ancestors." -But as the priests are very exorbitant in their demands for this small -piece of service, none but the richer class can afford the expense. - -[Sidenote: MISSIONARIES.] - -I omitted to mention the arrival, some days since, from Singapore, of -the English schooner _Reliance_, commanded by an American, Captain -Burgess of Maine, and owned by Robert Hunter, a Scotch gentleman, who -has been trading for eight or nine years past between Singapore and -some of the ports on the eastern side of the Malay peninsula, but more -particularly with this place. In this vessel came an American Baptist -missionary, the Reverend John Taylor Jones--wife, child, and servants: -he has been residing for about two years past at Maulmein, in Burmah, -but latterly at Rangoon. He had been expected for some months, and a -house was preparing for him by the very respectable Mr. Silveiro, the -Portuguese consul at Cokai, near a campong of Burmese. I immediately -wrote a note and sent it to the roads, about forty or fifty miles -distant, offering them every accommodation in our extensive house, -until they should be able to take possession of their own. Two days -afterward, the family arrived with the exception of Mr. Jones, who came -the following day, and remained with us till every thing was arranged. -Their house is a tolerably comfortable one for the climate; they appear -to be well satisfied with it, and their contiguity to Mr. Silveiro, who -speaks French, English, and Siamese, and is able to give every sort -of information relative to the people and the country, having resided -here about thirteen years. The house is situated a short distance back -from the river, amidst palm and other trees, and is surrounded by a -dense population. The house formerly occupied by the Reverend Mr. -Tompkin, an Englishman, Mr. Gutzlaff, a Prussian, and Mr. Abeel an -American, all missionaries, residing here within the last few years, is -a short distance from it, and immediately on the banks of the Menam; -it is a very small cottage, fit only for humble dwellers, and the very -appearance of it, with the very respectable men who occupied it, will -convince any one, that a life of luxury and indolence was not their -object in leaving their country and their homes, and all that was dear -to them; but to go about doing good in the cause of Christ, according -to their best abilities. - -These worthy men did much good when they were here, by administering -medicines to the sick, and in many instances, no doubt, in distributing -useful and religious tracts in the Siamese and Chinese languages; but -the injudicious though well-meant zeal of Mr. Gutzlaff in the very -outset, within the first two days of his arrival, gave great cause of -offence to the government; for he immediately threw many thousands -of tracts into every floating house, boat and junk, as well as into -cottages. An order was issued for his immediate expulsion from the -country, and that his tracts should be collected and burnt; and had -it not been for the friendly interference and good management of Mr. -Hunter, who was a favourite with the praklang, the order would have -been executed. - -The king ordered a translation of the tracts to be made, which was done -very fairly; he read them and said candidly and openly that there was -nothing objectionable in them, but he preferred his own religion. The -government raise no objections to Christian missionaries residing in -the country, and it is as favourably disposed toward them as can be -expected, considering the great influence of the Budha priests; but -missionaries must never suffer their zeal to transport them beyond -the bounds of common prudence. A certain sect of Christians here are -very inimical to Protestant missionaries, much more so, I am credibly -informed, than the Talapoys, who believe themselves so firmly seated -that they do not trouble themselves about the Protestant preachers. As -a convincing proof that the government is far from being unfriendly to -missionaries, the praklang sent down a good covered boat, expressly to -convey Mr. Jones and his family to their new residence, at Cokai, two -miles distant from our house. Mr. Jones was introduced by Mr. Hunter to -the praklang, who received him with apparent kindness. - -It it said, by some, that this favourable reception is owing to his -being an American citizen, and because of the friendly terms existing -between the government of Siam and the United States. It is true, -without doubt, that the king openly expressed much gratification, that -an American man-of-war had arrived with an envoy, for the purpose of -forming a treaty of amity and commerce. This fact was named to me -repeatedly, by the praklang and by others, who daily attend the court. -His Siamese majesty immediately ordered his best unoccupied building to -be prepared for us, (and it certainly is the best on the river;) two -of his best war-boats to be sent to bring us to the city, and a feast -to be prepared by the governor of Packnam; and on our arrival at the -house, every comfort and every luxury were spread on the table; and -cook, purveyor, servants, interpreters, and guards, at our service. The -praklang was ordered to facilitate the speedy execution of the treaty, -&c. - -All this was very gratifying; but, under the frequent delays and -obstructions thrown in the way of the treaty by the praklang, -influenced, probably, by the preference which the government people -of Siam were said to have for my countrymen, it is said by Mr. S. -and by many others, to have been the most extraordinary instance of -despatch ever known in the history of diplomacy in this country, -even when an enemy was at their door. Their friendly disposition -towards us was confirmed by Major Burney, who was sent to Siam, by -the governor-general of India, about six years since, now ambassador -at the court of Ava. He informed Mr. Jones, that the Americans were -decidedly preferred to any other foreigners. He was detained here -about seven months, and met with a thousand vexations. He was not -more successful in his negotiations than we were, although aided by -the sacrifice of the king of Quedah, and the fears the Siamese have -of their English neighbours in Burmah, and the Malay peninsula. Mr. -Crawford, his predecessor, likewise, who came here for a similar -purpose, in 1812, was detained several months, treated with insult, and -dismissed without obtaining a single commercial advantage. I omitted -to mention that Mr. Abeel is held here in the highest estimation, by -those who have the pleasure of his acquaintance. He possesses talents -of a very superior order, and acquirements that do great credit to his -industry; is mild and conciliating in his manners, forcible in his -arguments, yet possessing a sufficient degree of zeal, never giving -offence to the government, nor creating dislike by being over-zealous, -and thereby disgusting the natives; but the bad state of his health -would not permit him to remain on this good missionary ground, which -may be made, in a few years, ready for the harvest. Missionary stations -should never be left vacant, and several teachers should be on the spot -at the same time, so as to be able to relieve each other occasionally. -The language of the country must first be learned, and at least a -partial knowledge obtained of the Mandarin and Fo-kien languages of -China. Missionaries should also be well acquainted with the peculiar -doctrines of the Budhists, which they are labouring to subvert: free -schools should be established; a printing-press put in operation, and -those children should be preferred who have never attended the schools -of the Talapoys. Although a good wife contributes in a thousand ways to -the comfort and convenience of the missionary, yet the prejudices of -the people they visit should be consulted, at least for the present; -for the Siamese are firm in their opinion, that the vow of perpetual -celibacy should be observed by all who bear the title of priests, of -Christians as well as worshippers of Budha. All missionaries should -also have some knowledge of medicine and surgery. - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII. - - CHINESE JUNKS--MECHANIC ARTS OF SIAM--AMUSEMENTS--DANCING - SNAKES--ANNUAL OATH OF ALLEGIANCE--DESCRIPTION OF THE - CAPITAL--EMBASSY FROM COCHIN-CHINA--EDUCATION IN SIAM--PALACE. - - -The climate of Siam is more healthy than that of Batavia. -Notwithstanding the great heat of the climate, and the vast quantity -of uncleaned and undrained land, epidemics do not often prevail; yet -the spasmodic cholera, a few years since, swept off upward of sixty -thousand inhabitants. - -During our stay, the weather has been clear and serene, a breeze -visiting us about the middle of the day; yet the thermometer has -ranged 93 deg., and has frequently been 94 deg. and 95 deg.. No one has been sick, -excepting of complaints in the bowels, occasioned by a change of diet. - -The profuse perspiration under which we suffered, day and night, -considerably exhausted our strength. Those pests of all swampy -countries, moschetoes and other insects, have not appeared in such -vast quantities as they do in the rainy season, nor reptiles, which -then abound every where; nor is the heat so great as it will be within -the next four or five months, when the thermometer will rise from 100 deg. -to 103 deg.; yet, it is said, the climate then is not more unhealthy than -it is at present. Where the ship lies, the thermometer has not risen -above 84 deg., and prevailing winds have been from the southward, blowing -fresh the most part of the time, with a considerable sea. During the -heat of the day, notwithstanding bathing is resorted to, and the -natives are often seen with a wet cloth on their shoulders, to keep -them cool and mitigate the effects of a scorching sun; yet it is a rare -circumstance to see any of them with a covering on the head, excepting -the women-pedlars on the river, who wear a palm-leaf hat, the exact -shape of a milk-pan reversed; this is kept on the head by means of a -frame-work, made of split rattan; their dress also is different from -other women's being a tight cotton jacket, with sleeves, and the usual -waist-cloth worn by both sexes. - -It is surprising how few of the mechanic arts are here practised, -excepting those which are connected with the building of junks and -boats; and in this case, strickly speaking, there are but two or three -employed. The carpenter, who builds the vessel, makes the masts and -wooden anchors, and the very few blocks that are used; pumps are not -known, for the water is bailed out from vessels of one thousand tons -burden. They go to market and buy their mats to make sails, which are -spread out on the ground within certain pegs, which give the proper -dimensions and shape; the bolt-rope is then sowed on, being made of -a species of very coarse strong grass, abounding every where; and -the sailmakers, being the sailors of the vessel, make the cordage -generally, and assist in making the immense cables. Blacksmiths are -necessarily employed to make bolts, and calkers are indispensable. - -[Sidenote: CHINESE JUNKS.] - -A true Chinese junk is a great curiosity; the model must have been -taken originally from a bread-trough, being broad and square at both -ends--when light, (I speak of a large one,) it is full thirty feet -from the surface of the water to the tafferel, or the highest part of -the poop. Forward, a wide clear space intervenes, where the cable is -worked, there being a stage erected, some twelve or fifteen feet above -the forecastle, on which they help to work and keep a lookout for sail. -The mainmast is a most enormous stick of teak or other hard wood, big -enough for a line-of-battle ship, on which they hoist an enormous sail, -which generally takes all the crew, consisting of at least a hundred or -a hundred and fifty men; when they wish to lower it, it is necessary -to send a number of men on the bamboo poles, which stretch from side -to side, to assist in its descent. A small mast, the after or mizen -mast, is placed on one side, not in the centre as in other vessels, -but stepped or secured on the deck. The enormous cable is hove up by -a common windlass, without the assistance of pauls, stretching from -side to side of the vessel, through the bulwarks. The centre of the -vessel is at least fifteen or twenty feet lower than the tafferel, -open for the most part amidships, planks being placed here and there -to step on. There is tier upon tier of cabins aft. The hold is divided -into compartments and made water proof; these are hired or owned by -the shippers, so that each one keeps his goods separately; and in case -the vessel spring a leak, in any particular part, it is more easily -repaired. The caboose is on one side; and their meals, as at home, are -made of rice and salt or fresh vegetables, and perhaps a little fish, -and of every cheap article, however unsavoury, served up in a great -number of small saucers. - -The vessels are kept in a most filthy condition, and can be scented a -long way off. Scenes of the grossest debauchery are practised on board -these junks; and gambling is carried on to a great extent. They are -called either male or female, according to the shape--the former being -sharp aft, if not forward; but these are considered to be illegitimate -upstarts of modern date, and are not the true Chinese junk. The female -has an enormous broad convex stern, there being a hollow or cavity, -where the broad, clumsy, grating-like rudder is placed; it probably -recedes two feet from the quarters to the sternpost. They are generally -painted white and red, perhaps blue, and the two enormous eyes of -vigilance are ever to be seen on each bow. On the stern, all the art of -the painter is exhausted by a profusion of meretricious ornaments--an -eagle, or what is intended for one, occupies the centre of the stern, -surrounded by all sorts of non-descript figures, and on one side of the -counter is a Josh, or god of wealth, resembling in shape Toby Filpot, -besides a great variety of indescribable nothings. - -The boat is exceedingly stout and clumsy, and an exact counterpart of -the junk, being of an oblong square, nearly flat, and propelled by a -long oar, placed on a swivel. - -Another kind of mechanics, are tin and leather-dressers, which, -strange to say, are always to be found in the same shop. The makers of -qualtahs, or iron pots and pans, which are a very neat, light article, -and little liable to be broken, owing to the ductility or toughness of -the iron. These pots are sold at a cheap rate, and are preferred to all -cast-iron vessels imported from Europe. Some iron is also made into -small bars or pieces. There are also makers of sandals, which articles -are worn only by the Chinese. The tin-ware is very neatly made, and -the patterns show a good deal of taste; but it is useless to put on -the fire, as there is no alloy mixed with it. The leather is died a -common red, made of deer-skin, and smoothed by a black stone, the size -of a brick; it is used for mattresses, pillows, &c. House-carpenters, -canoe, and boat builders, and a few makers of musical instruments, with -a little coarse pottery, and a few ordinary knives and locks, comprise -all the mechanic arts that have fallen within my knowledge. Gold and -silversmiths, I have nowhere seen; if there were any, who possessed -such ingenuity, they would be seized upon by the king or his officers, -and employed in their service. The gold vessels, containing areca, -cigars, &c., &c., are carried to every place they visit, by the princes -and higher officers of government, are made at the palace, and can only -be used by the king's favourites. I have seen a few rude hand-looms in -operation; but the fabrics, both of silk and cotton, were very ordinary. - -They import their brass ware and silk stuffs from China and Surat, -and their cotton and woollen goods, cutlery, &c., principally from -Singapore. Even the Talapoys' razors for shaving their heads, are -imported from Canton: they are made of thin brass, of a curved shape, -about two inches wide throughout, and six inches long, fixed into a -coarse wooden handle. The mechanic arts are carried on almost wholly -by the industrious Chinese. The common houses are of bamboo, with -attap roofs; some are built of wood, and few of brick; but with few -exceptions, they all stand upon high piles. They are thus raised, in -consequence of the inundation of the river, to make them more secure -against depredations, to keep them dry, and to avoid the numerous -reptiles. The bridges which cross the canals, are generally a single -plank; some few have timbers laid on apartments of wood or brick, -planked, and about six feet wide, but an arched bridge is nowhere to -be seen. Roads there are none; and the only carriages are those owned -by the king, which are brought out only on some great occasions, and -are never seen beyond the walls of the city; of course, there is -scarcely any use for horses or elephants. The Menam with its thousands -of boats, and the numerous canals and branches of the river, make the -communication every where cheap and easy, and compensate in a great -measure, for the want of roads. - -The principal amusement of the inhabitants, within their houses, is -singing and playing on musical instruments, of various kinds: their -singing is of a plaintive and melancholy cast, and they display -considerable taste in its execution: but there is too much monotony, -too much sameness in it; still they have got beyond the point of being -pleased with mere sound, like the Chinese. Their musical instruments -are very numerous: I have been able to describe but few; the music -produced by them is very different from the vocal, being cheerful -and lively. Playing chess is also a pastime. Dancing girls are kept -for the amusement of the women of the higher classes. Tumblers, -rope-dancers and actors, are considered necessary appendages for a -complete establishment. Gambling is carried to great excess by the -Siamese and Chinese; and the revenue derived from it, as will be seen -in a statement of the revenue, is of considerable importance to the -government. Flying kites is a favourite amusement with all, especially -with the Talapoys, and a great number of them may be seen employed, -in this way, at all hours of the day. Playing shuttlecock with their -feet, three on a side, is much practised by them, as well as the laity; -and in their houses, and even within their temples, they spend a large -portion of their time at chess. These amusements, together with chewing -areca, smoking cigars, begging, and sleeping, leave but little time for -devotion and study. - -[Sidenote: DANCING SNAKES.] - -A few days since, a Siamese came into the yard, and desired to exhibit -some dancing snakes; he uncovered a basket, and drew out with his naked -hand several of a large size, and of the most venomous kind known in -India, the cobra de capello--they were full six feet in length, and -large in proportion; he had eight in the basket, and took out three or -four at a time, and suffered them to run about: he would then touch one -slightly on the body, as he was retreating, which caused him instantly -to turn his head backward toward the tail. The head, from being round -and small in proportion to the body, was quickly expanded to the width -of full three, and probably five inches in length, showing a crown or -circle in the centre; the head was nearly flat, his forked tongue was -thrust out with great rapidity, and he kept vibrating from side to -side, and his keen fiery eye shot forth most terrific glances; but he -made a most noble and graceful, although frightful appearance. - -The exhibitor kept a cloth moving, a short distance in front of his -eyes, and the snake, in endeavouring to elude it, so that he might -spring upon his adversary, kept in a dancing motion. Having tied two or -three of the largest round his neck, and put the head of one of them -in his mouth, the exhibition ended. Being satisfied that the fangs -were extracted, or otherwise they could not be handled with impunity, I -suffered two of them to run between my feet, but they did not offer to -molest me or any one else. - -The water used for domestic purposes is taken, with all its impurities, -from the river, in water-tight buckets, neatly and strongly woven; it -is put into unglazed earthen jars of thirty or forty gallons, and is -suffered to settle in the best way it can, without any foreign aid. -The filth of half a million of people, which is all emptied into the -river, renders it most impure, and dead bodies are frequently thrown -in to save the expense of burning. In a family, where no garments -are mended--in which there is no baking or ironing of clothes; no -stocking nor shoes worn, and the washing and drying of their simple -garments, done at the river, does not occupy a month in a year--no -books read, and no writing done--a large portion of the time of the -females must, of course, be spent in sleep and idleness. This is the -life led by the Siamese women of a good condition, they having in fact -no occupation--this must be the true "dolce farniente" of the Italians, -and a sorry one it is. - -They wear no jewels, these being used altogether by the children, -their dress consisting only of a waist and breast cloth of dark silk. -A little music, the dancing girls, actors, and tumblers, occasionally -exhibited, chess, colouring their skin yellow with turmeric, and -anointing the tuft of unshorn hair on the top of their head; scandal, -with frequent dissensions, the natural consequence of a plurality -of wives; no riding out, seldom paying visits, and rarely diverting -themselves with shopping, the almost unvaried repetition, from day -to day, of the same dull round of occupations and amusements, cause -their lives to drag on wearily, heavily, and listlessly. Long nails -being considered a sort of patent of nobility by the Siamese, as well -as the Chinese and Cochin-Chinese, draw a certain line of distinction -between the vulgar, who are obliged to wear short ones and work -for their living, and the higher orders. Those of the latter are -carefully preserved from being broken, but not quite so much pains -being taken to keep them clean, they are generally disgusting in their -appearance--some of them are full two inches in length, and are put -into cases of bamboo or metal on retiring to rest. The female actresses -wear silver-pointed cases to them, which curve backward with a high -sweep, nearly touching the wrist. - -The higher orders of nobility, in fact, all who are allowed to crawl -as far as the lowest place within the palace, and all the officers -of state, must pay a morning and an evening visit to the "Lord of -the White Elephant," to his "_golden-footed majesty_," "the master -of all men's lives." Not to attend regularly, is considered a mark -of disrespect and disaffection to the king: sickness, or some great -calamity, only, is good cause for excuse. - -Regularly, at half past eight in the morning, the praklang passed the -mission house, having about a dozen paddles to his long canoe, sitting -cross-legged or sidewise under the palm-leaf awning, or reclining on a -carpet and cushions, a slave crouching on all fours in front of him, -administering to his comforts in lighting a cigar, or helping him to -areca. His palanquin (or rather a lacquered hand-barrow) protected -from the rays of the sun by a large umbrella, was carried in the same -boat, so as to be in readiness, on landing, to carry his unwieldy -person to the palace. About noon, he returned. Between six and seven, -he again regularly passed, and returned again usually about midnight. -The paddlers on the numerous boats crouched low when he passed, as -they all do when passing by the king's bathing-house on the river: he -never notices, in the slightest degree, their obeisance, but wo to them -if they omit it. The bath-house is of great length, painted red, and -decorated in front with numerous dwarf-trees and shrubs, and is used, -it is said, daily, by his hundreds of (some say, eight hundred) wives -and many scores of children, with their countless attendants. - -[Sidenote: ANNUAL OATH OF ALLEGIANCE.] - -Annually, every public officer renews his oath of allegiance to his -majesty, in the most horrid and revolting terms, calling down upon -himself every curse and punishment in the present and future world, -should he prove disloyal. At the commencement of the Chinese year, -every governor, or other important officer, even of the most distant -province, is obliged, on pain of death, to present himself at the -krong, or capital, for this purpose. - -A few days after our arrival, the venerable bishop of the Roman -Catholic church sent a deputation to wait upon me, consisting of a -young French priest, who has been in the country about two years, and -a native Portuguese priest. The bishop sent an excuse for not paying a -visit in person, owing to his advanced age and great infirmities, and -requested me to call upon him, which I accordingly did in a few days -thereafter, in company with Mr. Silveira and Doctor Ticknor. He made -but few inquiries respecting his own country, which he had apparently -almost forgotten. He said he was born at Avignon, in 1760, left France -in the year 1786, and, with the exception of the time occupied by a -tedious passage, three months passed at Macao, and six months at Hue, -the capital of Cochin-China, he had been ever since in Siam. He was -very infirm, and in his second childhood: sans teeth, sight dim, sans -every thing. The house he lived in was very old and far from being -clean. The church was built of brick and stuccoed, having a very gaudy -and ordinary altar-piece, and destitute of images. It has been finished -but a few years, and is called Santa Assomption. - -A college, erected within a few years since the church, and neatly -built of wood, stands near it, having about twenty students. It is -erected on high posts, and is one story high. This Christian campong -stands in the midst of palm and forest trees; and the situation is -altogether very rural and pleasant. It will bear no comparison with -its neighbours, the rich and gorgeous temples of Budha. The Catholic -churches in this country, since the first bishop arrived, in 1662, -have scarcely made any progress: the descendants of the Portuguese -constitute, I may say with propriety, all the Christians in the -kingdom; so say the Catholics themselves. All that can now be found -here, and in the vicinity, do not exceed, according to the most -zealous of that sect, thirteen hundred; but, according to a Protestant -Christian missionary, who resided here nearly three years, and numbered -them with considerable accuracy, they do not exceed four hundred. There -are four churches in this vicinity; three of them are merely long -sheds, in a wretched condition. In the campong of Santa Cruz, the walls -of a brick one are erected, near to the old shed of that name; but the -building will never be finished, for there are, already, evident signs -of dilapidation in many parts of it. - -Of the splendid churches that once adorned the old capital of Jutaya, -there is but a small one now remaining, built out of the ruins of the -others; and in Camboja, where the Catholics once had a strong foothold, -they have dwindled to a mere name. The descendants of the Portuguese, -in whose veins courses the blood of the courageous adventurers with the -bold and fearless Vasco de Gama, who had the temerity first to double -the cape of Good Hope, and the cruel Albuquerque, are now crouching -slaves before the nobles of the country; and are employed only in -menial offices, with the exception of two, which give them a bare -subsistence. - -[Sidenote: BUDHIST TEMPLES.] - -The number of temples erected in the city and vicinity, I was unable -to ascertain: that they amount to several hundreds, (some report -from four to five hundred,) there cannot be a doubt. They occupy the -most conspicuous and beautiful spots on the bank of the Menam, on -its tributaries and numerous canals: you never lose sight of them; -frequently eight or ten are in view at the same moment. In the most -sequestered rural spots, they are always to be found; and wherever -a brick pathway leads into the depths of the forest, it is a sure -indication that there is a temple to be found. They are erected by -pious individuals generally, believing that it will be the means of -their souls being transmigrated into a higher and holier state of -existence, than would otherwise enjoy; they but most of them are built -from ostentatious motives. - -They are of brick, and plastered; are one story in height, having -neither arch nor dome; of a square form, and the roof is covered with -neat coloured tiles, which gives them a gay appearance. At a first -view, one is deceived, by supposing that there are three or four roofs -to every building, as there are a series of them, which gradually -diminish in size, to the main roof. The fronts, or gable ends, are -laboriously and elegantly carved, with fanciful devices, and richly -gilded. The eaves, doors, and window-frames, are, more or less, -carved and gilt, painted and varnished. The doors and windows greatly -resemble the pointed, or Gothic style of architecture. A figure of -Budha, generally in a sitting posture, wearing the peaked crown, and -having the soles of his holy feet turned upward, occupies nearly one -entire end of the building, and is usually surrounded by votaries of -a small size. He is partially covered with yellow cloths, having a -high umbrella suspended over his head. Incense is occasionally burnt -before him. The ceiling of the roof, which is flat, is painted with -vermillion, ornamented with gilded stars. The entire sides, doors, -and window-shutters, are covered with figures, fruit, and fancy work -of various kinds--painted, varnished, and gilt. The floors of most of -the buildings are of cement, having neither galleries, benches, nor -seats of any kind, and scarcely a mat to kneel on. There are but few -public temples. The front and rear of all have a portico. China plates, -saucers, and common English crockery, stuck into plaster, intended -as ornaments, are seen on many of them; bits of coloured glass, also, -make up part of the ornaments around the doors and windows. The images -are either of brass or iron--brick plastered, and wood; but all richly -gilt and burnished. Two temples, of a lesser size, stand on either -side of the principal: they are generally not so highly ornamented. -Small pyramidal pagodas, of six or seven feet in height, and open -at the sides, surround these buildings, and contain two stones, or -rather slabs, standing about six inches apart; they are of the exact -shape of a bishop's mitre. I repeatedly asked the use of them, or what -they were intended to resemble; but all professed their ignorance of -their origin. In them were generally found palm-leaves, containing -characters, written in the sacred or Bali and Siamese languages, strung -together in the centre, at a proper distance. - -Small temples, or rather buildings, for various purposes, occupy the -fronts and sides, among which, in a distinct building, is the belfry, -which is ascended by a flight of steps, containing generally five or -six bells, having no tongues, but being sounded by means of a heavy -stick, or piece of metal. - -Early in the morning, "when dying clouds contend with growing light;" -when the fox-bat is returning from his nightly wanderings, to suspend -himself on the holy fig trees, which lie scattered about the temples of -Budha, and like the midnight marauder, shrinks from the sacred light of -day; the tokay has ceased to send forth his harsh, loud, and monotonous -cry; the prowling tiger has retired to his lair; the tuneful birds have -chanted forth their first matins, or the labourer has returned to his -daily task; when every thing is hushed in the solemnity of night, in -the stillness of a temporary death, you are suddenly aroused by the din -of the pagan bells, sounding far and wide through the depths of the -surrounding palm-forests, summoning the worshippers of Gautama to early -prayers. In the confusion of the moment, between slumbering and waking, -you are transported, in imagination, to far distant lands, where the -Sabbath bell calls forth its votaries. But how great the contrast! One -summons to the worship of an imaginary god; the other to the worship of -the everlasting and true God, the Lord of all things--of light and life. - -Pra-chadis, or thin tall spires, from twenty to sixty feet in height, -are in great numbers; and there is one at the krong or capital, which -towers to the height, probably, of a hundred and fifty feet. The houses -of the Talapoys are contiguous to the temples, and are generally -shaded by fruit and forest trees. Small temples, having a high roof, -and four wide avenues leading to the centre, for the burning of the -richer sort, and a raised platform in the open air, for those who can -only pay small fees, are placed at the most convenient spot near the -water. A long bath, or small pond, containing young alligators, seems -to be a necessary appendage to all temples. The grounds about the -front of many of the richer temples, are neatly and prettily laid out -with avenues, clumps of trees, shrubbery, &c. The priests derive a -considerable revenue by making small images, either of the unconsumed -bones of certain deceased persons, or else of common clay, gilt; and -also by writing on palm-trees, certain moral or religious sentences, -in the sacred language. The Indian lotus, with its broad leaf, is -nowhere neglected, but is found about every temple, growing from large -porcelain or stone vases, neatly, and sometimes elaborately wrought. -Every Siamese temple is not only a place for worship, but it is -likewise a monastery: females are in them, old and worn out, and their -characters are far from being respected. They only do menial offices, -dress in white, and have nothing to do with the worship in the temples. -As rice, their chief support, is abundant, it is but just that the -Talapoys should support them in their old age. - -The spot on which the present capital stands, and the country in its -vicinity, on both banks of the river for a considerable distance, were -formerly, before the removal of the court to its present situation, -called Bang-kok; but since that time, and for nearly sixty years past, -it has been named Sia yuthia, (pronounced See-ah you-te-ah, and by the -natives, Krung, that is, the capital;) it is called by both names here, -but never Bang-kok; and they always correct foreigners when the latter -make this mistake. The villages which occupy the right hand of the -river, opposite to the capital, pass under the general name of Bang-kok. - -[Sidenote: COCHIN-CHINESE AMBASSADOR.] - -A Cochin-Chinese ambassador, with several junks, arrived here from -Longuar (alias Saigon) a few days before our arrival, being the same -mentioned previously. Ambassadors' junks of both nations, whenever they -visit each other's country, or pay their annual tribute to China, are -always well laden with goods, out and home, on account of the king or -his ministers; it is in part a trading expedition, and the secret is, -they are allowed to go duty free, as I have before stated. - -[Sidenote: COCHIN-CHINA AND SIAM.] - -The object of the emperor of Cochin-China, in this case, is blended -with a more serious piece of business; it is no less than to demand the -delivery, to them, of the person of the first minister of state, and -superintendant of Pegu, and the principalities of Laus and Camboja, -whose title is "Chan-phaya-bodin-desha;" he is a "meh-tap," or -commander of the Siamese forces now in Camboja. It seems, in 1827, the -Siamese government oppressed the subjects of one of the Laos tributary -princes, Chow-vin-chan, to such a degree, that he was obliged to take -up arms in defence of his rights, against the neighbouring Siamese -government; this was the point to which the Siamese government wished -to force him, for the purpose of taking into possession his territory. -Hordes of soldiers were sent among them under the command of the said -Chan-phaya-bodin-desha, and they committed all sorts of enormities; -the country was stripped of its riches, and the inhabitants, fleeing -from the enemy, were shot down indiscriminately like wild beasts; this -process being found too tedious, thousands were packed into houses -and blown up with gunpowder; the younger women became the prey of -a licentious soldiery, and the smoking ruins of a peaceable people -marked the track of a band of savages, whose knives were steeped to -the hilt in the blood of their fathers and mothers, husbands, wives, -and children. Those who escaped were sent to the capital and sold as -slaves; thousands and thousands died on the rafts which floated them -down the Menam, with wounds, sickness, and starvation. In fact, the -country was made desolate, was in ruins: "He made a solitude and called -it peace." The survivors were never more to see their country; their -soil was given to their savage invaders. In the midst of these horrible -excesses, an ambassador from the emperor of Cochin-China was sent to -the general in command, with the ostensible object of interposing -in behalf of Chow-vin-chan and his family, who had fled into their -territory--not from motives of compassion, I conceive, for the present -emperor of Cochin-China is an ignorant, blood-thirsty savage, and -pursues his enemy, where he dares, with an unrelenting hand. The -object was, in truth, to prevent the conquest of the kingdom of Laos -by Siam, which would give the Siamese a better chance of obtaining -a larger slice at a future day, which they had long contemplated -with eager and with gloating eyes. The Siamese commander, smarting -with all his wounds, and red-hot from the bloody battle-field, or to -speak less hyperbolically, not having filled a heavy purse from the -spoils of the conquered, anticipating a golden harvest from the onward -march, and feeling deeply indignant at the insidious policy of his -wily neighbours, ordered an instantaneous massacre of the envoy and -his suite of a hundred men, with the exception of one, who was sent -back to say, "I alone am left out of all my brethren." Highly enraged -as was the emperor at the fell swoop of the embassy, and the gross -violation of the law of nations, he dissembled, not daring to wage a -war or revenge cruelty by cruelly; for his crazy, disjointed, and puny -government would probably crumble into atoms, the moment a large force -should quit the kingdom. - -The Cochin-Chinese government are aware that the Tung-kinese, on the -north, are watching keenly for the first possible chance which offers -of freeing themselves from their despotic oppressors; the Cambojans on -the south are desirous also of measuring the length of their swords -with their hard task-masters, and the lower class of Cochin-Chinese, -which comprise nine hundred and ninety-nine of the thousand, are ripe -for a revolt; being ground to the earth by the higher orders. They are -ragged, filthy, and starving, from the gulf of Tung-king to the gulf -of Siam, and from the coast washed by the China sea, to the boundaries -of his "golden-footed majesty." Year after year this demand has been -made and evaded, and so far from his Siamese majesty ever intending to -comply with it, he has lately sent this same "Meh-tap" into that part -of Camboja which fell to his majesty's share in the division of that -kingdom with Cochin-China, to receive, and to protect from capture, the -many thousands of Cambojans, who have recently fled into the Siamese -territory. The ambassador paid his first visit a few days after his -arrival, to the chow-pia-praklang, and was treated with bare civility; -he was told, by order of his majesty, that a copy of the same letter -which was sent to his majesty the last year, was all the answer which -would be returned to the letter received from the emperor through -his hands. His audience with the king, which took place a few days -previously to ours, was marked by no distinguished honours; the pomp -and parade exhibited to us were dispensed with upon that occasion. It -is said by Mr. Silveira, and all others, that no embassy from a foreign -country ever had so favourable and honourable a reception as ours, -marked at the same time with the most extraordinary despatch ever known. - -This same emperor of Cochin-China, this deep sympathizer in the wrongs -of the people of Lao, has lately persecuted to death a handful of poor -Roman Catholics, all who would not trample on the cross and renounce -Christianity. To conclude, the Chow-vin-chan and family were betrayed -into the hands of the Siamese. Sickness, distress of mind, and long -exposure to the elements, fortunately put an end to the prince. He -died in a cage, a few days before his cruel oppressors intended to -put him and his family to the most excruciating tortures; the heir -apparent escaped, but committed suicide by throwing himself from the -roof of a temple to the ground, rather than fall into the hands of his -blood-thirsty pursuers. The female part of the family receive a scanty -subsistance from the government and remain in the capital. Thus ended -the dynasty of Chow-vin-chan, adding another victim to the millions -that have heretofore perished, from the effect of inordinate ambition. - -The barbarous conduct of the Siamese last year, in the Malay peninsula, -in sending hordes of soldiers, or rather common coolies, under the -command of the chow-pia praklang, which destroyed Patani, Singora, &c., -plundering them of their property, and sending nearly five thousand -prisoners as slaves to this place, which had been given away, or "sold -in lots to suit purchasers;" the thousands that died from wounds, bad -treatment, and starvation--deserve the bitter execration of every -friend of humanity. - -Education is carried to a very limited extent; a mere smattering -only is generally diffused among the Siamese, in reading, writing, -and arithmetic. The suan-pawn is in general use as an assistant in -making calculations. Those who wish to attain to a greater degree of -knowledge, more particularly in the Pali or sacred language, resort to -the monasteries of the Talapoys. In their composition, (if I may be -allowed to judge from the various articles of the treaty, being again -and again altered to make them clear and perspicuous,) they are fond -of being ambiguous in all their forms of expression. There was always -a disposition evinced to hint obscurely at things, like the Chinese, -rather than express their full meaning. - -[Sidenote: HABITS OF THE SIAMESE.] - -A plain unmasked style, in speaking or writing, is totally unknown -to a cringing people, born under a despotic government; but they -are rapidly becoming wiser. Their intercourse with the English and -Americans is gradually bringing about a more honest, manly, and open -mode of expressing themselves, both in speaking and writing; but it can -never be thoroughly effected under such a form of government as the -present. The lower classes of the people are obliged to make use of -gross flattery and adulation to their superiors, who again treat them -as slaves, using high authoritative language. Subordination in rank -is so strongly marked, that not the slightest appearance of equality -is to be seen. They attach a ridiculous importance to mere form and -ceremony. A Siamese, in the presence of a superior, either crouches to -the ground, or walks with his body bent. It seems utterly impossible -for him to sit or walk in an upright posture. Women are allowed more -freedom here, than in any other country where polygamy is tolerated. -They wear no veils, and almost hourly boat-loads of the wives of the -nobility were seen to pass; the curtains were drawn aside to satisfy -their curiosity, which always appeared to be more ardent than ours. The -lower orders of women, apparently, do most of the labours of the field, -and are employed in the boats on the river in great numbers. They are -the principal traders, and are said to be very shrewd and cunning. - -The most conspicuous objects which strike the eye of the traveller -on the Menam, besides the splendid wats, are the new palace, a large -watch-tower, and a prachade or tall thin spire, which is many feet -higher than any other building; all are situated within the walls -of the city. The palace itself, with its pagodas, and many other -buildings, is surrounded by a high wall, having strong gates, and -a guard of a miserable and undisciplined militia. The palace is a -handsome and extensive building of brick, and stuccoed; the doors and -windows are similar in style, taste, and outward decorations to the -better class of temples, and bear a strong resemblance to the Gothic -style of architecture. It has a high cupola, formed by a series of -roofs, or it rather resembles a conical umbrella diminishing in size -to the spire, which is without decorations, and rises to the height, -perhaps, of one hundred and sixty feet. The roof of the building has -also a diminishing series of roofs like the pagodas, and it is covered -with very neat coloured tiles. The cupola appears to be gilded upon -copper, or more probably slabs of tin. - -The watchtower is of the height of the palace, and is an oblong square -building; the base is probably one hundred feet square, built of brick -and plastered, having a guard-house and strong gates; fifty feet -from the base commences the first look-out room, and there are two -others above it. In them are gongs and bells, which give notice of an -enemy, or a fire, or an insurrection of the people. The inhabitants -are at once informed by the sound of one of these instruments, of -the calamity which assails them, each one being appropriated to one -of these particular objects. A few days before the procession of -the wang-na took place, there arrived the governor of Ligor, whose -title is chow-phay-a-lakhow, alias Ligor; he commands one of the most -important provinces belonging to the Siamese, in the Malay peninsula, -is a Siamese by birth, a man of powerful talents, fond of Europeans, -and adopts all their improvements in the mechanic arts. His boats -are handsomely modelled, carrying two or three fore and aft sails; -they are coppered, carry a suitable number of cannon, and every thing -about them is in excellent order. The model is superior to that of the -king's, having a greater breadth of beam, and they are of a greater -length. The soldiers are well and uniformly clothed, and well drilled -with the musket and the use of the bayonet, according to the tactics -of the Europeans. There is some trade from the port of Ligor, in what -is generally called the Malayan produce, viz.:--tins, black pepper, -rattans, rice, sapan-woods, &c., and several small cargoes of cotton -are taken away annually by Chinese junks. Four of his sons govern other -provinces in the peninsula; the eldest is governor of Quedah, the -former king of which now remains at Pulo Penang, or Prince of Wales -island. - -Although the British agreed by treaty, on the cession to the Pulo -Penang, to protect him and his kingdom against any invasion by the -Siamese, yet the latter were suffered to capture Quedah, and the -British violated their treaty, for they offered no assistance. The -king fled to Penang for protection, demanded to be reinstated, and -was refused. Major Burney, in order to obtain a favourable commercial -treaty with the Siamese, agreed to keep him a prisoner, and he is now -in durance, living upon a small salary, under British protection. The -cause of the failure of Mr. Crawford's mission, was his refusal to -deliver him to the Siamese, or confine him as a close prisoner. - -The governor of Ligor was ordered here to attend the procession and -burning of the wang-na; and it was also necessary he should be here -at the commencement of the new year, to renew his oath of allegiance. -He is a powerful chief; the government is alarmed at the extent of -his power, but they dare not dispossess him of his government, or do -his person any violence, for his sons would most certainly avenge -his cause, and the king's possessions in the Malay peninsula, would -probably be lost to him. - -[Sidenote: TEA--RAINS.] - -The Chinese, who are noted every where for their villanous tricks, -import large quantities of ordinary goods here, as well as those of a -good quality--among other articles is tea. A story I heard almost daily -in Canton, respecting the gross imposition practised upon foreigners in -this article, here proved to be true. It is a well-known fact, that all -the tea used in China, particularly about Canton, is bought up again, -"_fired anew_," as it is termed, and coloured green; even black teas, -it is said, are thus coloured, by the use of smalts, and then exported -to various countries. Tea of a good quality is exceedingly scarce here, -and at a high price, notwithstanding the proximity to China, and the -great number of junks which enter here from all the maritime provinces -of that empire. - -Until the ascension of the present king to the throne, it was a -custom with the sovereigns of the country to hold the plough at the -commencement of the rains, which generally take place at the latter end -of April or beginning of May; this is now dispensed with, and one of -the nobility is appointed instead of the monarch. - -The rains continue till September, when the lower part of the Menam -begins to rise, and it is at its utmost height in November and -December: it then begins to subside. Its rise is generally from -twelve to sixteen feet, but two years since it rose to the height of -twenty-one feet. - -The thermometer is occasionally as low as 73 deg. in the months of December -and January, during the height of the northeast monsoon. - -Vast numbers of boats and rafts, bringing in the productions of the -upper country, visited the capital during the flood above alluded to. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX. - - PROCESSION TO THE FUNERAL PILE OF WANG-NA OR SECOND KING--ORIGIN - OF BUDHISM IN SIAM--SOMMONA KODOM--ATHEISTICAL PRINCIPLES OF - BUDHISM--BUDHIST COMMANDMENTS--HISTORY OF SIAM--GOVERNMENT--TITLES - OF THE KING--OFFICERS OF THE GOVERNMENT. - - -[Sidenote: FUNERAL PROCESSION.] - -_April second._ Having received an invitation from his majesty through -the praklang, some days since, to witness the procession of the remains -of the late second king to the funeral pile, and this day being set -apart for that purpose, a suitable boat was sent to us early by the -praklang, and soon after seven in the morning, we proceeded across the -river to the city. - -The party in the praklang's boat consisted of Mr. Hunter, Dr. Ticknor, -Lt. Fowler, Mr. Morrison and myself--and in my boat were Midshipmen -Rumfort, Weed and Wells, Mr. Robinson, &c., &c., and Raymondo the -Portuguese interpreter. We landed near one of the city-gates and passed -through it to the place assigned us, a great concourse of people being -collected in the principal street through which the procession was to -pass. - -Finding the place by no means convenient to see the procession, owing -to the lowness of the roof of the building, and being annoyed in some -degree by the concourse of people who came to have a sight of us, -(although they were altogether civil in their conduct,) I made known -to the interpreter that we must remove from that place to one more -commodious. Shortly after we went near to a part of the king's palace: -it was an open building standing on columns of about twenty feet -square, having a tiled roof; mats were spread on a part of it for our -accommodation. The praklang was there and a prince of Lao, &c., &c. -The former shortly took leave to attend the procession, having seen -that we were properly accommodated. At nine, or rather at three, in -Siamese time, the procession commenced and continued about an hour and -a quarter, in the following order:-- - -First: several hundred standard bearers (three hundred and -eighty-four,) dressed in red embroidered cloth, wearing caps of the -same material; the banners were of silk richly embroidered with gold -of a triangular shape, bearing devices of dragons, serpents, &c., -all neatly embroidered also. A band of music, consisting of drums, -harmonicon and small hautboys, accompanied them. - -Second: a young rhinoceros of about four feet in height, drawn by a -party of soldiers dressed in embroidered blue cloth long jackets, on a -sledge or low carriage, having on his back a small gilded castle and -containing in the centre a small bundle of Talapoy or yellow cloths. - -Third: two horses having two pairs of wings, about five feet in height, -bearing similar castles with Talapoy cloths; one of them was spotted -with red and the other with blue. - -Fourth: two gigantic cocks, with demons' heads, having four wings, -castles, &c., of various colours. - -Fifth: two four-winged elephants, full size, one white and one green, -bearing castles and cloth, followed by a band of music. - -Sixth: two gigantic cocks with cocks' heads, four wings, beasts' tails, -and partly human bodies, castles, &c., accompanied by a band of music; -colours of these nondescripts were various. - -Seventh: two more with cocks' bodies and tails, four wings, with -elephants' trunks and tusks, gilt castles and cloth. - -Eighth: two more cocks with four wings, castles, &c., but a little -different from the seventh. - -Ninth: two cocks with griffin-legs and human arms, four wings, castle -and cloth. - -Tenth: two cocks with long snouts, four wings, castle and cloth. - -Eleventh: two horses with dragons' tails, four wings, castles, &c. -Then came one hundred and twenty men carrying flowers made of yellow -or Talapoy cloth, having artificial green leaves: they were of the -shape of a sunflower and attached to bamboo-poles ten or twelve feet in -length. - -Twelfth: two horses' bodies, with elephants' heads and snakes' tails, -four wings, castles, &c. - -Thirteenth: two cocks with horses' bodies, four wings, castles, &c. - -Fourteenth: two lions, with deers' horns, wings, castles, &c. - -Fifteenth: two lions, with horses' bodies, long tails, wings, &c. - -Sixteenth: two leopards, with elephants' heads and tusks, wings, &c., -&c. - -Seventeenth: two elephants' bodies, with non-descript heads, wings, -&c., &c., colour, a dark ground with white spots. - -Eighteenth: two horses, covered with green circles, cocks' crests, -lions' tails, wings, &c., &c. - -Nineteenth: two striped and spotted leopards, with wings, castles, &c. - -All the above animals were from four to six feet in height; they were -made of bamboo frame and covered with paper; the different pairs were -variously painted and gilt, striped, spotted, in circles, &c., &c. -They were drawn on low sledges, sometimes by men alone, dressed in -blue or green cloth, embroidered with the figure of a tiger, and caps -to correspond, with waist-cloths of all colours; others by men and -horses: all the animals were in pairs, and about twenty feet apart: -they had four wings each, and bore small gilded towers on their backs, -containing on a salver, cloths of yellow, intended as offerings to the -Talapoys. - -Then followed one hundred and thirty men with tom-toms or drums, which -they struck occasionally with a covered stick. They were dressed in -coarse red cotton jackets, caps, and drawers reaching to the knee. - -These were followed by seven hundred men representing angels, dressed -in long white frocks, having white high peaked caps in the style of -the royal crown of Siam. These represented celestial messengers, and -were to show the soul of the deceased the way to heaven: each one -bore the sacred Indian lotus and leaf, artificially made: these were -accompanied by a great number of musicians, having trumpets and small -brass horns, making a great discord: then sixty-four conical umbrellas, -each consisting of five separate pieces: they were about fifteen feet -high, the lowest part being about four feet in diameter and were made -of cloth of gold and embroidered. - -Between each two of these men, was carried what resembled a section of -a bishop's mitre, similar in appearance to those placed in front of all -the wats. They were fastened to the tops of staves, of about nine or -ten feet in length, and were flat, broad, neatly ornamented, and gilt. - -Following these, came the san-krat, or Siamese bishop, apparently -reciting prayers, in a car about twenty feet high. This carriage was -broad at the base, gradually lessening to the seat; neatly carved -and gilt, and sparkling with various coloured glass. The carriage was -drawn by six horses, and led by servants. Then came, dressed in a robe -of gold tissue, one of the youngest sons of the deceased, wearing a -royal gilt cap, in a car nearly similar to the last, and drawn in like -manner. An immense white umbrella was held over him, conical umbrellas -at each corner, and four long gold fans, pear-shaped: these are a sign -of royalty. Then came another son of the deceased king, wearing the -royal peaked cap, in a carriage like the last, drawn by one hundred -men, in embroidered green dresses and red caps, assisted by five horses -richly caparisoned, holding in his hand the end of a broad sash of -silver tissue, which was connected with the funeral car of his father, -being about thirty, forty, or fifty feet distant. This latter car was -about twenty-five feet in height. It was elegantly decorated with -carved work, superior to its predecessors, and highly gilt. The body -was seated in a square gilt tower, having gilt network sides, and was -supported by two angels, kneeling, in front and rear. The car was drawn -by angels dressed similarly to the former, and also by horses. Many -of the high officers of state walked in single files by the side of -the carriage, dressed in white muslin, and peaked caps, carrying white -wands. - -The body was placed in a sitting posture, with the knees drawn up to -the chin, and the hands united in the attitude of prayer: it was said -to be embalmed. - -Eight hundred angels next followed, in two lines, succeeded by a large -carriage, containing Agila, and other odoriferous woods, for consuming -the remains of the deceased. - -The preceding carriages were all similar in structure, and from -eighteen to twenty-five feet in height to the top of the towers, -fifteen feet in length, and ten feet in width. The wheels were of a -solid piece of wood, and about two feet in diameter, similar to those -used in buffalo-carts in Manila, Sumatra, and Java: the carriage being -broad at the base, and gradually lessening to the tower, and of an -oblong form. - -Following the foregoing, came six open carriages, covered with -beautifully figured cloth of gold, containing Talapoy cloths. - -Fifty-six umbrella towers, of a very large size, being a series of -canopies, gradually lessening to the top, covered with rich gold cloth, -having tassels of green, red, &c., &c. - -One hundred men with green and gilt drums, or tom-toms, wearing red -cotton frocks and caps. - -One hundred and fifty men bearing artificial yellow flowers, made of -Talapoy cloth, similar to those already described. On each flank were -men carrying artificial yellow flowers, like those before named. Then -followed:-- - -Three pairs of horses' bodies, with non-descript heads, cocks' crests, -lions' tails, &c. - -Two pairs, with giants' heads and bodies, cocks' tails and legs, in -green and gold. - -Two pairs, with cocks' legs and fishes' tails, in white and gold. - -Two pairs, with gorgons' heads, human bodies, lions' tails, in white -and gold. - -Two pairs lions, painted blue. - -Two pairs, yellow, with horns. - -Two pairs, blue, with horns. - -Two pairs, yellow, no horns: All having gilt towers, containing Talapoy -cloths. - -Fifty men, carrying rich silk embroidered pennants. - -Then followed on horseback, in pairs, four princes, two and two, -wearing the gold-peaked crown, and dressed in long robes of silver -tissue: following them, eight more, of a lower rank. These were -succeeded by a great number of slaves or attendants, dressed in white -waist-cloths. The horses were richly caparisoned, with gold housings, -bridles, &c., and led by slaves. At every few steps they would stop, -and the attendants in front would kneel down, facing their masters, as -well as those in the rear. - -Preceding every prince, went a man, bearing a bundle of rods, like a -Roman lictor. In the rear were open palanquins, having gold, or richly -gilt supporters on the sides, and rich velvet cushions. Then followed a -vast concourse of people, but all preserving good order. - -There was an immense multitude convened to witness this splendid -funeral procession. Governors and rajahs from distant provinces of the -empire, came, by order of his majesty, each one bringing a gift to -assist in paying the enormous expenses attending this idle and useless -ceremony. Here were assembled persons of all nations. From the western -hemisphere, Americans; from the east, Indians, Arabs, Bengalese, -Burmese, Pequans, Malays, Sumatrans, Javanese, Cochin-Chinese, -Cambojans, the Chans, or people of Lao, Siamese, &c.; and among the -whole of them no serious impression could possibly have been made. It -could only be considered a fine farcical scene, a pretty raree show, -got up as a benefit for the king and his ministers, (for it is expected -that every one, who is able, will contribute something,) to show the -public that splendid mausoleums are only fit for the great of the land, -and that the vulgar herd must be burnt in the common way, either under -a shed, or else on a raised platform in the open air: to impress their -minds with the magnificence of majesty, and, at the same time, to -strike them with awe and fear, so that they may be more easily ruled by -the iron hand of despotism. - -This whole assembled multitude (with the exception of our party) -crouched to the ground like base slaves, whenever any of the higher -ranks passed. Along an extensive street, on one side, were play-houses -erected, open to public use, in which were exhibited shows of all -kinds, and fireworks might be seen nightly, within the enclosure -surrounding the temporary funeral pile. His majesty was desirous we -should witness the burning of the body on the funeral pile, which was -to take place the seventh day after the procession;[A] but the ship -was in want of provisions; the southwest monsoon was about commencing, -which is generally attended with violent squalls and heavy rains, the -ship was riding at anchor ten or twelve miles from the mouth of the -river, in five and a half fathoms' water, in a very exposed situation; -and it was necessary to bring our water some forty miles, near the -city, besides which, the only provisions to be obtained, were fowls, -pork, and rice. - -[A] One of the sons of the wang-na watches at the temple, near the -funeral pile, night and day, till the body is consumed; the ashes of -the consumed body are then thrown into the river with many ceremonies; -and the unconsumed bones are then delivered to the priests, and made -into household gods. - -[Sidenote: BUDHISM IN SIAM.] - -The Budhist religion of Siam, according to historians, originated in -Magadha, the modern Behar, in the sixth century, (or 542,) the founder -being Gautama, the son of a prince, called Sudhodana. After many -centuries it was introduced into Ceylon; and in the seventh century of -the Christian era, first into Camboja, and from thence into Lao; and -lastly, into Siam. Sommona Kodom, the cattle stealer, a Singalese, was -the missionary who first propagated this religion in those countries. -He is described as being benevolent in the _extreme_. He even carried -his zeal so far, as to murder his whole family, (considering them as -encumbrances upon his country,) so that he might maintain a greater -number of priests. He was renowned for the daily mortifications of -his body, his fastings, his prayers, his miracles, and the fantastic -appearance he could assume--now swelling to the size of a mountain, -and again shrinking to a mere atom. But notwithstanding he possessed -great supernatural powers, he could not resist the cravings of an -un-saint-like appetite; for eating a large quantity of pork one day, he -died in a fit of anger, because he had transgressed one of his rules, -and thereby set a bad example to his disciples. - -All professors of Budhism, whether of Tartary or Magadha origin, are -atheists. They do not believe in one God, the creator of the universe. -The leading doctrine of this religion, is that of the transmigration of -souls. - -After being purged of all their sins, by being punished in some one or -all of their numerous _hells_, having practised the regular number of -virtues, they believe that they will at length reach the highest of all -their more numerous heavens, and then no longer come into existence or -die; that then they are emancipated from all the cares and passions -which belong to our natures, and sink into annihilation. - -Here they will enjoy the company of the blessed Guatama, who occupies -the uppermost seat, and that of many worthies who will there be found; -yet the existence of the founder of their religion is limited to a term -of five thousand years, and nearly one half of that time has actually -expired. The Budhists say the world was created by chance; it will be -destroyed and reproduced, and destroyed again and again. - -The founder of this religion--seeing that all mankind was in a state -of gross ignorance and barbarism, ferocious, their feet swift to shed -blood, that they were given up to a life of rapine--persuaded them that -it was a sin to shed the blood of any living creature; that they must -cultivate the soil, and live in peace and harmony with all mankind. - -He, therefore, enjoined on his converts the following moral precepts, -viz.:--First: Thou shalt not kill any living creature. Second: Steal -not. Third: Commit not adultery. Fourth: Thou shalt not lie or -prevaricate. Fifth: Thou shalt not be guilty of drunkenness, or use -any intoxicating drugs. Sixth: Eat not after noonday. Seventh: Frequent -not play-houses, or any place of amusement. Eighth: Use no personal -amusements. Ninth: Sleep on a clean mat, and use no costly, soft, rich, -or elevated beds. Tenth: Do not borrow or run in debt. - -The first commandment is violated in every war that takes place; and -how many instances have we on record of blood being poured out in -profusion, to make clear the path for the ascension to the throne of -a lawful sovereign or a usurper, or for some more trivial object. The -clergy and laity also daily partake of fish, flesh, and fowl; but they -consider the crime of killing them as attached to the vender only, -although they may hire him to commit the act. The second and third are -but little attended to. As it regards the fifth, the large revenue, -derived from the distilling of arrack, is a convincing proof of its -general use; and wine and spirits form a part of the cargo of every -English and American vessel, which are sold at a good profit; and -the use of opium is likewise rapidly increasing, notwithstanding its -use is prohibited by their laws and religion. As for the last five -commandments, they are imperative on Talapoys only, and they do, or do -not, observe them, as it suits their inclination. As for the fourth, -it is considered quite obsolete; I believe, it is observed or not, as -it may subserve the interests or convenience of either the clergy or -the laity. If there were not so great a number of Talapoys employed in -cutting grass for the king's elephants, one would be led to suppose -that the third commandment was _originally_ intended to be observed -more strictly among them than it now is, but he must first be stripped -of his sacerdotal vestments, before he can be punished by the secular -arm. - -[Sidenote: TALAPOYS OR PRIESTS.] - -All _spiritual concerns_ are delegated to the priests. A strict -observance of religious duties is not expected from the laity; if -they administer to the daily necessities of the clergy, pay them the -customary honours, and strictly attend to the observance of the holy -day, &c., they consider that they have fully acquitted themselves -of every essential part of their duty. Almost every freeman in Siam -is, for a longer or shorter period of time, a priest. If married, he -must be divorced, having previously made a suitable provision for his -family. If he enters the priesthood a second time, it is for life. -There are six grades of priests; they enter as noviciates, and are -promoted according to their respective merits. Above all, is the -san-krat, bishop or high-priest, who receives his appointment from the -king. - -The sovereign is the pope, or real head of the religion of the country, -and the priests depend wholly upon him for promotion, and in a great -measure for subsistence; he is always deemed holy, and must have been -truly virtuous in a former life, to have attained his present eminence. -Eighty-four thousand six hundred bats or ticals, equal to the sum of -about fifty-three thousand five hundred dollars, are placed down among -the items of the expenditures of the government, for the year 1832, -as given in alms to the priests by the king. The Talapoys cannot be -engaged in any of the temporal concerns of life; they must not trade -or do any kind of manual labour, for the sake of a reward; they are -not allowed to _insult_ the earth by digging it. Having no tie, which -unites their interests with those of the people, they are ready, at all -times, with spiritual arms, to enforce obedience to the will of the -sovereign. - -No Talapoy can ordain a layman, without first obtaining a license from -the san-krat, and all classes of people pay him unbounded honours. -Secular persons must make obeisance to Talapoys--even parents to -their children; this mark of homage is considered as their due, and, -therefore, they never return the salutation. One strong inducement to -enter the priesthood, is an exemption from the conscription law, which -bears so heavily upon the people; to avoid paying taxes, and to obtain -an easy livelihood. - -Their time must be spent in studying the sacred Pali or Bali language, -in reading hymns, prayers, and moral discourses, and begging: for they -must not lay in a store of food, nor make any arrangement for preparing -it for use, but still they employ others for that purpose. - -They are forbid to be burdensome to beast or tree; but it seems -they may be so to their own species. Twice in the month, the head -and eyebrows must be shaved, as a token of mortification, and to -render them less captivating to the _fair_ Siamese. Attached to all -temples are monasteries, slenderly endowed by the government or rich -individuals--yet by far the largest part of their support is derived -from casual alms and gifts. Early in the morning, they may be seen in -great numbers, sallying forth in their yellow dresses, which are either -of silk or cotton; some carrying a large bason, and others with their -scrip, suspended over the left shoulder by a band of yellow cloth; -this is made of a composition of iron and sand, and it is exceedingly -brittle. These pots are manufactured just without the walls of the -city, on the south side. They are covered with a material more or less -rich, according to the ability of the owner. Great numbers of Talapoys -are seen rowing their little boats, in search of alms, having then -no protection for their closely shaven heads against the heat of a -powerful sun. But when they go out for exercise, or to pay a visit, -they use a long neat pear-shaped palm-leaf fan, called talapat. When -they present themselves at the foot of a ladder, or in front of a -floating-house, they never ask for charity, but wait patiently till -they are supplied with clothing or food: it is received in silence, and -they never return thanks to the donor. - -[Sidenote: HISTORY OF SIAM.] - -Siam appears to have no place in history, prior to the introduction of -the Budhist religion, in the year of Christ, 638, when a sovereign by -the name of Krek governed the country. In 1521, their first intercourse -with Europeans (the Portuguese) took place. There were two revolutions, -and the country was conquered by the Burmans, and recovered again its -independence between A. D. 1547 and 1596. In the year 1612, the first -English ship made her appearance, and ascended the river to Yuthia, -the ancient capital, about fifty miles above the present seat of -government. In the year 1621, a Portuguese mission was sent to Siam, -by the Portuguese viceroy of Goa; and in the same year, some Roman -Catholic missionaries first made their appearance. In 1627, another -revolution took place, which placed a new dynasty on the throne. In -1684, the son of the usurper was instigated by Constantine Phaulcon, -a Greek adventurer, to send an embassy to Louis XIV. In 1685, the -Chevalier Chaumont was sent there, at the head of a splendid embassy, -which was the cause, in 1687, of sending a second mission, with a -squadron of ships and five hundred soldiers. The total destruction -of the English took place at Magni, this year, in consequence, it is -said, of their overbearing and insolent conduct; and, in the year -following, their factory at Yuthia was removed. In 1690, a revolution -took place, and the reigning family lost the throne; the minister, -Phaulcon, lost his life, and the French were expelled from the -country, which destroyed their hopes of establishing a French empire in -the East, until the year 1787, when they made that famous treaty with -Cochin-China, ceding the peninsula of Haw, the bay of Turam, &c.; but -which failed in consequence of the troublesome state of public affairs -in France, at that period, followed by the revolution. Since that time, -and within the last five years, the French government sent a frigate to -Cochin-China, and endeavoured, but without effect, to have the treaty -ratified. The dynasty of 1690 reigned till the capture of the capital -by the Burmans, under Shembuan, the second son of Alompia, which took -place in 1767, when the king was killed at the entrance of his palace. - -The Burman army retired with great plunder, after destroying vast -numbers of the inhabitants, making slaves of others, destroying the -temples, and committing every sort of excess. The Siamese immediately -rose upon the Burmans who remained, and massacred them and their -partisans. - -A chief, of Chinese descent, Pla-tah, alias, Phria-metah, in 1767, -seized upon the throne, and proclaimed himself king. In the early part -of his reign, he behaved with moderation, good sense, and discernment, -and his courage was unquestionable. He reconquered Piseluk and Ligor, -which had declared themselves independent, during the Burmese invasion: -but in the last year of his reign, he ruled in so strange a manner, -that it was generally believed he was insane. His tyrannical and -capricious conduct, in 1782, was the cause of a formidable rebellion, -under the chakri, so called, being the title of a great officer of -state: it ended in the dethronement and death of the king, in the -same year, at the present capital. The chakri reigned in his stead, -until his death, in 1809. His eldest son then mounted the throne, but -not without opposition, for there was a large party in favour of his -nephew, the prince Chow Fa, (or Chaou Pha.) He commenced his reign by -committing an act of great atrocity, ordering, within thirty-six hours -after the death of his father, the execution of upward of a hundred -persons, supposed to be inimical to his right to the throne, including -his nephew. - -After the committal of this sanguinary act, he ruled with great -moderation. Nothing of much importance occurred. Three abortive -attempts at insurrection took place during his reign; one was by the -Talapoys, occasioned by an attempt to force a large number of their -order into the ranks of the army. - -The acquisition of the fertile and extensive province of Batalang, in -Camboja, took place the same year he ascended the throne. The year -following, their implacable enemy, the Burmese, captured the island -Junti Ceylon, on the western coast of the Malay peninsula, which was -shortly after recaptured by the Siamese, attended with scenes of great -barbarity. Since the conquest of the Burman empire by the British, the -Siamese have lost all dread of their ancient enemy. - -In July, 1824, the father of the present king died _very suddenly_, -it was said of stranguary, but not without strong suspicions of his -being poisoned; in fact, it is said, by every one, that this was -the cause of his death. His eldest, but illegitimate son, Chromas -Chit, ascended the throne the same day, without bloodshed, to the -exclusion of the rightful heir, prince Chow-Pha-Yai, who immediately -embraced the priesthood, in order to save his life, or his liberty, -or because he would not do homage to a usurper. His younger brother -_Chow-Phoi-Noi_,[A] otherwise _Mom-fa-Noi_, was the next legitimate -heir to the throne. He lives at the Portuguese fort, on the right bank -of the river, opposite to the palace, and is now about twenty-five -years of age. - -[A] He speaks and writes the English language with considerable -fluency, and his pronunciation is very correct. - -Joined to a playful disposition, he possesses considerable abilities; -he is a friend to the mechanic arts, and to the sciences; and very -friendly disposed, as well as his elder brother, towards foreigners. -He seems solicitous to become acquainted with all the Europeans and -Americans; and not a day or evening passed, during our stay there, -but his boat was sent, desiring the company of some of the gentlemen -residing at the mission house. In the night-time, by stealth, he went -down the river and visited the Peacock, having previously received -letters from Captain G. to his first officer. He examined the ship -throughout; the men were mustered to quarters, and went through the -exercise of the great guns, small arms, &c. Never having seen a -man-of-war before, he appeared to be astonished at the neatness of the -ship, the order, regularity, and activity, of the men when at quarters; -and stated, after his return, he was exceedingly surprised at every -thing he saw, and highly gratified with his visit. A strict secresy -was enjoined upon every one, not to divulge this visit, or it might -cost him his liberty, or, perhaps, his life. He made application, -afterward, through the praklang, to the king, to pay a visit, which was -granted; but there was not time; he was obliged to be present at all -the ceremonies attending the burning of the second king.[A] - -[A] The present king is very desirous of encouraging foreign commerce -to enter his ports, and the perplexities and endless changes which -formerly annoyed them, are now removed. As long as the present king -lives, this wise policy will be pursued. The amount of imports is -rapidly rising in importance. A historiographer is regularly employed -at the court of Siam, and the recorded events are deposited in the -public archives. - -[Sidenote: GOVERNMENT OF SIAM.] - -The government of Siam is a despotism, subject to no restraint except -the apprehension of popular tumult or foreign invasion. The fact of -being in high station, is regarded as sufficient evidence of exalted -merit in a former state of existence. The king is therefore considered -almost, if not altogether, equal to a deity; and is always addressed -as such. His most common designations are Chaocheveet, "the lord of -lives," Khun-luang, "the owner of all," Phra-putty-chao-jahooa, "the -sacred lord of heads," and numerous others of the same nature. His -more formal title, as translated in the treaty with the British, -concluded by Captain Burney, is the following: "The great lord who is -in possession of every good and every dignity, the God Bood'h, who -dwells over every head in the city of the sacred and great kingdom of -Sia-yoo-thya, incomprehensible to the head and brain." The Siamese, -when they possess titles, cease to be designated by any personal names; -hence the king is never spoken of except by the abovementioned or other -similar titles. - -[Sidenote: OFFICERS OF GOVERNMENT.] - -Next in rank and station to the king, is the wang-na, commonly called, -by Europeans, the second king. This high officer is always one of the -most exalted of the princes, and is chosen by the king at the time of -his accession to the throne. When he survives the king he commonly -succeeds him on the throne; but when the wang-na dies first, it is -seldom that another is appointed to fill his place, during the reign of -the same king. Hence there was no one who held the office at the time -of our arrival, the one chosen on the accession of the present king -having died about ten months before. - -At the head of the Siamese administration is the supreme council, -consisting of the following officers:-- - -First: A president, a prince of high rank. When the mission was in the -country, this office was held by the prince Khroma-luang-rah. - -Second: Chao-phaya-bodin-deeha or khroma-ha-thai, formerly called -Chao-phaya-chakri. He has the general superintendance of the northern -provinces adjoining Pegue, and of the principalities of Laos and -Camboja. - -Third: Chao-phaya-maha-sena, or khroma-ka-la-hom; he is of equal rank -with the lastmentioned, and holds the office of commander-in-chief of -all the land and sea forces, with the general superintendance of the -southwestern provinces, even to the last tributary Malay rajah. - -Fourth: Chao-phaya, praklang or khromatha, the minister of commerce and -foreign affairs, who also has the superintendance of the southeastern -provinces adjoining Cochin-China. This office and the lastmentioned, -are at present held by one individual. - -Fifth: Chao-phaya-jomarat, or khroma-muang, minister of criminal -justice. - -Sixth: Chao-phaya-phollathep, or khrom-na, minister of agriculture and -produce. - -Seventh: Chao-phaya-therama-terat, or chroma-wang, governor of the -royal palace. - -The mission, during its stay in the country, had intercourse only with -the praklang, and the subordinate officers of his department. These -were:-- - -First: Chao-phaya praklang: Chao-phaya is the first in order of -the honorary titles. Praklang is said to signify, "lord of the -store-houses," and is the title of the office. This signification -corresponds with the title given to him by the Chinese, viz.: "Great -minister of the treasuries or store-houses." - -Second: Phaya-si-piphat. This office is held by one of the brothers of -the praklang. Phaya is the second honorary title. - -Third: Phaya-piphat-kossa, called by the Portuguese, the second -praklang. - -The other officers in this department, consisting of four phayas, two -pras, (or officers of the third rank,) eleven luangs, (of the fourth -rank,) &c., were never met with by the mission, except when in the -presence, and acting under the orders, of their superiors. - -Connected with this department is that of the Farang-khroma-tha, -"Frank (or European) commercial board," under the direction of the -Luang-sura-sakhon, chief of the Linguists, or captain of the port. This -office is at present held by Sur-Jose-da-Piedade. - -The commander of the artillery, Phaya-viset, Song-khiam, is also often -brought in connexion with foreign missions. This office is held by -Sur-Beneditto-de-Arvellegeria, a Cambojan Portuguese, who, with his -brother, Sur-Pascoal, has been for many years in the employ of the king -of Siam. The governors of all provinces, whether great or small, are of -the second rank, or phayas, with one exception, that of the governor of -Ligore, called Chao-phaya-lahhon. Their subordinate officers are not -known. - - - - -CHAPTER XX. - - ANCIENT LAWS OF SIAM--LEGAL OATHS--PUNISHMENT FOR - DEBT--DIVORCES--POPULATION OF SIAM--STATURE AND COMPLEXION OF - THE SIAMESE--DIVISION OF TIME--BOUNDARIES AND POSSESSIONS OF - SIAM--MARINE OF SIAM--IMPORTS--INLAND TRADE--CURRENCY--TREATY OF - COMMERCE--TABLE OF EXPORTS. - - -The Siamese have written _laws_, which are dated as far back as 561 of -Christ; and others are referred to in their courts, to the years of -1053-1614 and 1773. - -The higher officers of state are the justices and magistrates, but -the final decision rests with the principal local authority within -whose district the delinquent resides. Where the government is a -perfect despotism, and the channels of justice are polluted by corrupt -propounders of the law, equity and justice are but empty names, and -good laws a mere mockery. Oaths are administered to witnesses only on -formal and solemn occasions: the following being the form used in their -courts as translated by Capt. Lowe:-- - -"I, who have been brought here as an evidence in this matter, do now, -in the presence of the divine Prah-Phutt hi-rop (Budha,) declare that -I am wholly unprejudiced against either party, and uninfluenced in -any way by the opinions or advice of others, and that no prospects of -pecuniary advantage, or of advancement to office, have been held out to -me; I also declare that I have not received any bribe on this occasion. -If what I have now spoken be false, or if in my further averments I -should colour or pervert the truth, so as to lead the judgment of -others astray, may the three Holy Existences, viz.: Budha, the Bali -(personified,) and the three priests, before whom I now stand, together -with the glorious Dewatas (demi-gods) of the twenty-two firmaments, -punish me. - -"If I have not seen, yet shall I say I have seen; if I shall say that -I know that which I do not know, then may I be thus punished. Should -innumerable descents of the Deity happen for the regeneration and -salvation of mankind, may my erring and migrating soul be found beyond -the pale of their mercy--wherever I go, may I be encompassed with -dangers, and not escape from them, whether arising from murderers, -robbers, spirits of the earth, of the woods, of water, or of air, or -from all the divinities who adore Budha, or from the gods of the four -elements, and all other spirits. - -"May blood flow out of every pore of my body, that my crime may be -made manifest to the world; may all or any of these evils overtake me -within three days, or may I never stir from the spot on which I now -stand, or may the _hatsani_, or lash of the sky, (lightning,) cut me -in two, so that I may be exposed to the derision of the people; or if -I should be walking abroad, may I be torn to pieces by either of the -four supernaturally endowed lions, or destroyed by poisonous herbs or -venomous snakes. If when in the waters of the rivers or ocean, may -supernatural crocodiles or great fishes devour me, or may the winds -and waves overwhelm me; or may the dread of such evils keep me, during -life, a prisoner at home, estranged from every pleasure, or may I be -afflicted with the intolerable oppressions of my superiors, or may a -plague cause my death; after which may I be precipitated into hell, -there to go through innumerable stages of torture, among which may I -be condemned to carry water over the flaming regions in open wicker -baskets, to assuage the heat felt by Than-Wetsuan, when he enters the -infernal hall of justice, and thereafter may I fall into the lowest -pit of hell; or if these miseries should not ensue, may I after death -migrate into the body of a slave, and suffer all the hardships and -pains attending the worst state of such a being, during a period of -years, measured by the sand of four seas; or may I animate the body -of an animal, or beast, during five hundred generations; or be born -an hermaphrodite five hundred times, or endure in the body of a deaf, -blind, dumb, houseless beggar, every species of loathsome disease -during the same number of generations, and then may I be hurried to -varah, or hell, and there be crucified by Phria-yam, one of the kings -of hell." - -The Siamese are extremely capricious, in the standard value of -witnesses; the oath of priests and men in office, bearing a preference -over all others, while there are not less than twenty-eight in number, -who are excluded, and declared to be incompetent; they are as follows: -contemners of religion, persons in debt, the slaves of a party to a -suit, intimate friends, idiots, those who do not hold in abhorrence the -cardinal sins, among which are enumerated, besides theft and murder, -drinking spirits, breaking prescribed fasts, and reposing on the mat -or couch of a priest or parent, gamblers, vagrants, executioners, -quack-doctors, play-actors, hermaphrodites, strolling musicians, -prostitutes, blacksmiths, persons labouring under incurable disorders, -persons under seven or above seventy, bachelors, insane persons, -persons of violent passions, shoemakers, beggars, braziers, midwives, -and sorcerers. - -Tortures are resorted to in cases of treason or atrocious robbery, -and even among debtors where property is supposed to be concealed, as -well as the ordeal by water and immersing the hands in boiling oil or -melted tin. He who remains the longest under water, and the hand which -comes forth unscathed, are pronounced to be innocent. A debtor may be -punished by stripes and imprisonment, or dried, as it is termed by the -Siamese, that is exsiccated by being exposed to the direct rays of a -burning sun, suffering in addition the torments from myriads of noxious -insects, and finally to be sold as a slave if he is unable to discharge -his debt. - -A great number of debtors are seen in irons about the bazars, whose -only mode of subsistence is by begging; and they seldom ask in vain of -a people who are pre-eminently charitable. - -[Sidenote: PUNISHMENTS.] - -Theft is punished with the bamboo and with imprisonment, and even hard -labour for life, in aggravated cases. Murder, counterfeiting coin, and -forging the royal signet, with imprisonment for life, and the severest -punishment of the bamboo; and in cases of cruel and deliberate murder, -with death, by decapitation. A breach of the marriage-vow is not deemed -a highly criminal act, and it is easily commuted by paying a fine, -according to the rank or standing of the parties, from the sum of two -hundred and seventy to ninety dollars. Marriage is a civil contract, -and the Talapoins are not considered, in any way, necessary to legalize -the contract; but their prayers and benedictions are occasionally -bestowed. Insults are punished, from an inferior to a superior, -according to the aggravation of the offence, by a fine, and even by -corporal punishment, when a priest is the aggrieved party. - -If a priest commits a criminal act, he is divested of the sacerdotal -habit, and is punished generally with more severity than a layman. -Divorces are easily obtained, and each party receives back whatever -was contributed to the common stock. The minor male children go to the -mother, and the female to the father. Property can only be given to -the wife and children, and daughters receive from a half to a whole -share more than the sons. Wills must be made in the presence of four -witnesses. - -Siam appears to be a place of refuge for the surrounding nations, -and is composed of a great variety of people, viz.: Siamese, Laos, -Cambojans, Malays, Kariangs, Lawas, Kas, Chongs and Semangs, Chinese, -Mohammedans, and Hindoos of western India, Peguans, and Portuguese. -The population of the whole empire, including their late conquests in -the Malay peninsula, does not probably exceed three millions and six -hundred thousand, (although many Siamese rate it, in round numbers, -at five millions.) Of this number, I am led to believe, from frequent -conversations held with men in office, that the Siamese do not exceed -one million and six hundred thousand. The native population of Lao, -about one million and two hundred thousand. The Chinese at not less -than half a million, there being nearly three hundred and forty -thousand in the capital and the villages which compose Bang-kok. The -Malays, probably, amount to three hundred and twenty thousand; and -the remainder are natives of western India. Peguans, Cambojans and -Portuguese, the latter from pretty correct authority, do not exceed -fourteen hundred in the whole Siamese dominions. The Kariangs, the -Lawas, the Kas, and the Chongs, are wild and migratory races; the -three first inhabit the mountains and fastnesses of Lao, from the -Burman dominions to Camboja. The Chongs inhabit the hilly country, -bordering on the eastern side of the Siamese gulf. The Semangs are a -race of savage negroes, dwelling in the mountainous regions of the -Malay peninsula, of which a very curious and particular statement -was published by J. Anderson, Esq., included in his account of the -"Aboriginal Inhabitants of the Malay Peninsula," which I have subjoined -at the end of my Journal on Siam.[A] - -[A] See Appendix A. - -By actual admeasurement of a great number of Siamese, it is ascertained -that the average height does not exceed five feet and four inches. -Their skin is darker then the Chinese, yet they are several shades -lighter than the Malays; their complexion is rather a dark shade of -yellow or a yellowish brown. All classes delight in heightening it, -by using turmeric. A light yellow is considered to be the "ne plus -ultra" of all colours and all shades. This taste is derived, probably, -from the numerous Chinese who reside there. Owing to their frequent -bathing, and daily using a clean waist-cloth, their skin is remarkably -smooth, soft, and shining. They are inclined to obesity, have large -lower limbs and stout long arms; yet they are by no means a strong or -robust people. The _face_ is broad and flat--the cheek-bones round, -but prominent--the _nose_ rather small, round at the point, and rather -hollow at the bridge--they have large mouths and rather thick lips--the -lower jaw is long and full at the extremities, and the countenance -apparently square--the eyes are small and black, the white tinged with -a yellow cast--the forehead, although broad in a lateral direction, is -generally low--the beard is very scanty. The diameter of the head is -remarkably short from the front, backward; the top is unusually flat, -and from the crown to the nape of the neck, (in a large proportion of -them,) is nearly in a straight line. The hair is always black, thick, -coarse, and lank. - -[Sidenote: DIVISION OF TIME.] - -The Siamese week consists of seven days; the months, alternately, of -twenty-nine and thirty days; and twelve months, or three hundred and -fifty-four days, make a year. The year being solar, an intercalary -month of thirty days is added every third year after the eighth month. -The month is divided into a dark and a bright half, as the moon is upon -the increase or the wane. The Siamese new year corresponds with that -of the Chinese, which commences _after_ the last half of the month of -January, or the sun's entrance into Aquarius. It is very certain, that -in forming their calendar, they depend upon that constructed at Peking. -There is also a greater division of time, consisting of twelve years, -each year taking the name of some animal, thus:-- - - _Siamese._ _English._ - - First year Chuat Rat. - Second " Chabu Ox or cow. - Third " Khan Tiger. - Fourth " Tho Hare. - Fifth " Marong Dragon, or great snake. - Sixth " Maseng Snake, or lesser serpent. - Seventh " Ma-mia Horse. - Eighth " Ma-mee Goat. - Ninth " Wock, or Vock Monkey, or ape. - Tenth " Ray-ka, or Raka Cock, or fowl. - Eleventh " Cho, or Cho-Cho Dog. - Twelfth " Khan, or Kun Pig, or hog. - -The Siamese have two epochs, sacred and popular. The _sacred_ era dates -from the death of Gautama, and the year 1833 corresponded to the 2376 -year. The vulgar era was instituted when the worship of Gautama was -first introduced; and the year 1833 corresponded with the year 1194, -and was the fifth, or dragon year. - -Siam proper extends from about the latitude of 23 deg. north, to the -gulf of that name, and is bounded, west by the Burman empire, and -east by the Lao (Lau) mountains. This is the valley of the Menam, -the "Mother of waters," the country of the true Siamese. The Menam, -after watering the low, flat land, by its annual deposites, empties -itself, by three channels, into the gulf of Siam. The boundaries of the -Siamese dominions on the bay of Bengal, extend from the Burman, (or -more correctly speaking, in the present day,) the _English_ Burmese -dominions, as far south as the boundary line between the petty states -of Perak and Quedah, in the straits of Malacca, in about the latitude -of 5 deg. north, in which is included the valuable island of Junk, Ceylon -or Salung, containing a vast body of tin ore. It then extends nearly -east, across the Malay peninsula, in about the same latitude, between -the provinces of Tungano and Pakhang, the shores of which are bathed -by the China sea: it then extends north to the head of the gulf of -Siam. The Siamese government, during the year 1832, brought under their -immediate subjection, nearly the whole of the tributary states in the -Malay peninsula. They possess, also, a large part of the late kingdom -of Lao, including the former capital of the empire, called Lau-chang, -situated on the great river Camboja, in about the sixteenth degree of -north latitude, and which is represented to be very populous. They hold -also (with the exception of a small portion of the southern part) the -province of Batabang, in Camboja. Their eastern boundary line is in -about the longitude of 105 deg., and extends north to the latitude of 15 deg., -being the dividing line between Lao and Camboja, and extending south -to the Siamese gulf, the boundary being the island of Kong, (alias Ko -Kong,) situate in north latitude 10 deg. 43', and longitude 103 deg. 17' east. -Extending north, on the east coast of the gulf, lies Chautabun, once a -part of the ancient kingdom of Camboja. It is well known as a rich and -valuable possession of Siam. - -The Siamese possess no ships of war, but they have an immense number -(probably not less than five hundred) of war-canoes; some of them being -over a hundred feet in length, and made of a single teak-tree: they -have also, probably, fifty or sixty vessels, having two or three masts, -using fore and aft sails, and carrying from three to eight brass guns: -the largest do not exceed a hundred tons' burden: these are neatly and -strongly built, and many of them are even elegant models. The whole -number of mariners employed in foreign and coasting voyages, may be -fairly estimated as amounting to not less than thirteen thousand. - -[Sidenote: PRODUCTS--IMPORTS.] - -Siam is a very fertile country, and abounds in productions suited for -foreign trade, beyond any other with which I am acquainted to the -eastward of the cape of Good Hope. It is no less distinguished for the -variety and abundance of its mineral, than it is acknowledged to be -for its vegetable productions. I have annexed a statement, showing the -exports of 1832, the quantities of each article, the prices, &c., &c. - -To the Siamese trade may be added that of ship building, which is -carried on very extensively. A great number of Chinese junks are built -here annually; the timbers are of a very hard wood called marbao, and -the plank is of the finest teak in the world. Many of these vessels are -of a thousand tons' burden. - -The imports consist of British piece goods, white and printed, with -some woollens. India goods, of all descriptions, the coarser from -Bengal, and the finer and more expensive, from Surak. From China are -brought silks and teas, porcelain, quicksilver, and almost every other -article exported from that country. From other sources powder, arms, -and cannon; glass ware, and crockery; cutlery; some drugs; arrack; -wine, &c., &c. Opium is strictly prohibited; but the Chinese and -others introduce, clandestinely, large quantities for sale. There -is an immense trade carried on at the capital, called Si-a-Yuthia, -(pronounced See-ah-you-te-ah,) and on the opposite, or right bank of -the river, at Bang-kok. - -_Cotton twist_ is daily increasing in demand, more particularly low -numbers, from twenty to thirty. Twist, of a bright red, (not narrow,) -from number forty to fifty, always sells well; yellow and green are -died in the country, as well as ordinary red. Not more than twenty -peculs should be sent by one vessel. - -_Siamese dresses_ should be of small star patterns, on red, blue, and -green grounds, with a few chocolate grounds: the _red_ grounds must be -_bright_; they should be in the proportion of _four_ to _one_ of the -others. Each case should contain twenty corges, containing four hundred -dresses. - -_Prints_, generally called seven eighths, find a ready market. They -must be all of the star pattern, bright ground and narrow. The -proportion is, two pieces of red to one of black or blue, in a case of -a hundred pieces. Some on cloth, of thirty-four to thirty-six inches, -would also sell. - -_Chintz._ Large pattern furniture chintz is saleable. It is used for -curtains and screens. Patterns running lengthwise, are preferred. - -_Ells._ Long ells find a ready sale. The consumption of _red_ is very -great. There should be one hundred pieces of red to twenty of green. - -_Woollens._ _Thin_ ladies' cloths only are in demand; heavy, thick -broadcloths will not sell. From September to December, there is a -demand for them. Red and green are the favourite colours. In a bale of -twelve pieces, each seventeen and a half to eighteen yards in length, -there should be five of red, four of green, one of yellow, one of light -blue, one of light purple. - -_Steel_, in tubs of a small size, sells readily in small parcels.[A] - -[A] Samples of goods should be in readiness, which will save great -trouble. - -The inland trade is a very important branch, especially with Lau, and -the Chinese province of Yunan, &c. This domestic traffic is carried -on, on the Menam, in flat-boats, and on bamboo-rafts. Boats leave Lau -in August and September, when the river is swollen by the periodical -rains, and arrive at Bang-kok in November and December. They bring -stic-lac, benzoin, raw silk, ivory, beeswax, horns, hides, timber, -&c., &c. The articles of merchandise exported into China, through -Lau, consist of coarse woollens, broadcloths, cutlery, gold, copper, -lead, &c., &c. The Chinese are the principal foreign traders. The -Siamese prosecute a large foreign and coasting trade to China, Camboja, -Cochin-China, the Malay peninsula, to Singapore, to the eastern coast -of Sumatra, to the bay of Bengal, &c., &c. The traffic between the -countries lying on the shores of the straits of Malacca and the bay of -Bengal, is generally conducted by three different routes, across the -Malay peninsula; and then reshipped, in boats, on the gulf of Siam, -to the capital: the imports being British and Indian goods, opium, -esculent swallows' nests, &c., &c. - -The population of the capital and Bang-kok, with their suburbs, may -fairly be rated at four hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, I -deem it best to state this fact, so that it may be seen that, in a -commercial point of view, it is a place of great importance. - -[Sidenote: COINS AND WEIGHTS.] - -The Siamese coin no money strictly speaking; they use _bent_ bars of -silver, made nearly round and stamped with a star. Those of the largest -size are called baats, and by Europeans _ticals_. They are of the value -of _sixty-one_ cents and a small fraction. The halves are denominated -two salings, the quarters one saling; there are also eighths, called -one tuang. They have a gold currency formed in the same manner and of -various values; they have no copper or tin coin: occasionally, some of -the latter may be seen brought from Calantin, &c.: cowries or bias are -used in their stead. - -The _currency_ is as follows: one thousand and fifty cowries or bias -make one tuang; two tuangs, one saling; four salings, one baat or tical. - -Imaginary or money of account: four baats, one tamling; twenty -tamlings, one catty or eighty baats; fifty catties, one pecul or one -thousand baats.[A] - -[A] The baat or tical has been assayed in Calcutta and valued at two -shillings and sixpence sterling. I have given it the same value as the -European traders--viz., sixty-one cents. - -The _weights_ are the same as in China, being the pecul and catty; one -hundred catties making one pecul; one catty, one and a third pounds -avoirdupois. The fathom is the measure in most frequent use, being -six feet, six inches; also, twelve finger-breadths make one span; two -spans, one cubit; four cubits, one fathom; twenty fathoms, one sen; one -hundred sens, one yuta or yut. - -[Sidenote: TREATY WITH SIAM.] - -On the twentieth day of March, 1833, corresponding to Wednesday, -the last of the fourth month of the year 1194, called -_Pi-ma-rong-chat-tava-sok_, (or the year of the dragon,) the final -articles of the first commercial treaty between Siam and the United -States were concluded after a negotiation of twenty-two days, and on -the first day of April they were signed and sealed; but only a single -copy of the treaty could be obtained, notwithstanding the promise of -the chao-phaya praklang, one of the first ministers of state, that two -copies should be furnished me. No other reason was assigned for this -breach of promise, than that it was not customary. - -It is written in four languages, viz.: Siamese, Chinese, Portuguese, -and English, and is of the great length of nine feet and seven inches. -Previously to the signing of the treaty, the charges were not defined -and fixed; now, all obstacles and impositions are removed, and but a -single charge is made of seventeen hundred ticals on every Siamese -fathom of seventy-eight inches on the breadth of the vessel, if -merchandise is imported, and fifteen hundred if specie only is brought. -This charge is in full of all import and export duties either on -vessel or cargo. The sixth article of the treaty relates to debtors. -As foreigners were equally liable to the penalties with the natives, -I deemed it most proper to guard against the barbarity, which gave -the creditor in fact the power of life and death over his debtor, -and therefore in the early stage of the negotiation, I proposed an -article (which was agreed to) which released the American citizen -only, from all pains and penalties, by delivering to his creditors all -the property he possessed. About a fortnight after its conclusion, -the minister inserted an additional clause, making it reciprocal, so -that the Siamese debtor might receive the same benefit of the American -creditor. He was told it would have an unequal operation, as it would -very rarely occur that an American would incur a debt to a Siamese; -but he insisted that it should remain as it was, although I proposed -nullifying the whole article. But still if any American feels disposed -to take advantage of a code of laws written in blood, it will readily -suggest to him that a transfer of his debt to a responsible Siamese, -will give him a free and unimpeded course to hunt down a prostrate -victim. - -An attempt was made to reduce the measurement-duty on vessels bringing -specie _only_, to eight hundred ticals (instead of fifteen hundred) but -it did not prove successful, and a similar failure was the result of -another proposition to admit vessels wishing to purchase a part of a -cargo only, by paying a proportionate part of the measurement-duty. - -The treaty has removed all obstacles to a lucrative and important -branch of our commerce; the merchant being left free to sell or -purchase where and of whom he pleases. Prior to this period, the -American merchant was not allowed to sell to a private individual the -cargo he imported, nor purchase a return cargo. The king claimed the -exclusive right of purchase and sale in both cases; and furthermore, -such parts of the imported cargoes as were most saleable, were selected -and taken at his own valuation, which was always at prices far below -the market value, as _profit_ was the sole object in making the -purchases. - -Secondly: he also fixed the prices of the articles wanted for return -cargoes, and no individual dared offer any competition either in buying -or selling. - -Thirdly: the American merchant not only did not obtain a fair value for -his merchandise, but it is notorious that he had to pay from twenty to -thirty per cent. more for the produce of the country than he could have -purchased it for from private hands. - -Fourthly: the vexations occasioned by delay were a matter of serious -complaint. It was no uncommon circumstance to be delayed from two to -four months beyond the stipulated time. The loss sustained, say for -three months' charter, and interest on the capital employed for that -time, &c., &c., amounted to several thousand dollars. In addition to -all these evils the merchant was frequently obliged to take payment in -_inferior_ articles, at the _highest_ market value for the _best_, and -even _unsaleable_ merchandise at high prices. - -Fifthly: the duties on imports were not permanent; they varied from -eight to fifteen per centum. - -Sixthly: the export duty on sugar of the first quality, was one dollar -and a half (Spanish) per pecul, which was not less than from 25 to 30 -per centum upon the first cost, and other articles were charged in the -same proportion. - -Seventhly: port-charges and other exactions were not defined and fixed, -but they generally amounted to not less than three and a half (Spanish) -dollars per ton. - -Eighthly: Presents were expected, and in fact exacted, from the king to -the lowest custom-house officer, according to the usages of Asiatics; -there were but a few vessels that did not pay upward of a thousand -dollars, if they had a valuable cargo. The difference, therefore, in -exactions and impositions, prior and subsequent to the conclusion of -the treaty, may be stated on a vessel of two hundred and fifty tons, -having a twenty-five feet beam, as follows: The duties, _formerly_, -were from eight to fifteen per cent. on _imports_; the average rate was -not less than ten per cent. - - Now, on a cargo of $40,000, it would give the sum of $4,000 - - _Add_ to this $1,50 per pecul on sugar exported, - which was equal, at the lowest calculation, to twenty-five - per cent., on $40,000, which gives 10,000 - - _Also_, $3,50 per ton for charges 975 - - And presents, say 1,000 - - If there is added the _difference_ in the sale of the - imported cargo to the king or to individuals, the estimate - cannot be less than twenty per cent., and probably - twice that amount would not cover the loss, 8,000 - - _Add_ to this an additional price paid to the king on - the produce exported, say it was twenty per cent., is 8,000 - - Three months' charter, arising from detention, at - $900 per month 2,700 - - Three months' loss of interest is 600 - ------- - $35,275 - - From this amount deduct the _single charge_ of - 1,700 ticals per each Siamese fathom on the _breadth_ - of vessels bringing merchandise. If only specie were - brought, 1,500 ticals. - - Sixty-eight thousand ticals at sixty-one cents, on - seventy-five feet beam, is 4,275 - ------- - Making a difference of not less than $31,000 - -The result is, that the treaty has secured to us a valuable branch -of commerce which was entirely destroyed, and which will continue to -increase vastly, as the Siamese recover from the serious disasters -which resulted from the inundation of the valley of the Menam, for -upward of three months, during the year 1831. - - -_Exports from the river Menam (Siam) during the year 1832, showing the -quantity and market value of each article._ - - NAMES OF EXPORTS. QUANTITY. PRICES. - - Pepper, 38,000 peculs, 10 ticals per pecul. - Sugar, 96,000 peculs, 15,000 1st sort, 8 do. do. - 60,000 2d do. 7 a. 71/2 do. do. - 20,000 3d sort, 6 a. 61/2 ticals per pcl. - 1,000 Preto or - black, 21/2 a. 31/2 do. do. - Sugar candy, 5,000 peculs, 15 16 do. do. - Tin, 1,600,000 lbs., 1,200 do. 20 22 do. do. - Tobacco, 3,500 do. 100 bundles, 4 ticals. - Benzoin, 100 do. 50 a. 55 peculs. - Cardamom, 73,150 lbs., 550 1st sort, 100 a. 360 a. 380. - do. 2d do. 150 a. 280 300. - 3d do. 300 200 220. - Ivory, 40,000 lbs., 300 peculs, 160 a. 180. - Bar-iron, 2,260,000 lbs., 20,000 do. 31/2 a. 4. - Kwalahs or iron pans, - 60,000, 1st size, 4 ticals per peculs. - 2d do. 3 do. do. - 3d do. 21/2 do. do. - 4th do. 2 do. do. - 5th do. 2 do. do. - 6th do. 11/2 do. do. - 7th do. 11/4 do. do. - Aguils or eagle-wood, 10 a. 12 do. 1st sort, 400 ticals. - 2d and 3d, 250 and 200. - Cotton, 30 a. 40,000 26 clear, 8 in seed. - Swallows' nest, - (esculent,) 10 a. 12 1st sort, 10,000. - 2d do. 6,000. - 3d do. 4,000. - Bichos do Mar or Tripang, - Camphire, Malayan, - Wax, yellow, 1,800, do. 55 a. 60. - Gamboge, 250, 6 quantities averaging from 40 to 80 - p. p. - Varnish, 500, 50 per pecul. - Salt, 8,000 peculs, 21/2 a. 31/2 per pecul. - Dried fish, 60,000, 3 a. 4 do. do. - Hog's lard, 14 or 15 do. do. - Sapan-wood, 200,000, from 1 a. 31/2 salings per pec. - Teak-timber, 127,000 logs, - Rose-wood, 200,000 peculs, 3 salings per pecul. - Barks, Mangrove, &c., 200,000 bundles, 6 ticals per 100 bundles. - Leather, Deer, 100,000, 20 a. 25 per 100. - Iron-wood, (ebony) 1,500 peculs, 21/2 peculs. - Dried meat, 1,600, 6 per do. - Copper 300, 50 a. 55. - Rhinoceros skins, not ascertained. - Buffalo do. 1,500, 8 a. 10. - Ox do. 300, 7 a. 8. - Elephant do. not ascertained. - Tiger do. do. - Leopard do. do. - Bear do. do. - Snake do. do. - Civet-cat do. do. - " " Drug, not ascertained. - Dragons' blood, do. - Sharks' fins, 65 to 70 peculs, a. 65 per peculs. - Buffalo and ox horns, 300 do. 3 a. 4 per do. - Deers' antlers, do. soft, 26,000 pairs, 11/2 a. 2 ticals per pair. - do. horns, do. 3,000 peculs, 8 a. 9 per pecul. - Ox and Buffalo bones, 300, 1 do. - Elephant do. 450, 7 do. - Rhinoceros do. do. - do. horns, do. - Tiger, the entire bodies - for China market, 56 a. 60 do. - Peacock's tails, 1,200 trains, 7 a. 8 per pecul. - Raw silk, (from Lao) 200 peculs, 200 ticals per do. - Rough pitch, 10,000, 3 to 8 do. do. - Wood oil, 15,000, 3 to 6 do. do. - Takan, an inferior or - bastard Cardamom, 4,000, 32 to 40 do. do. - Feathers, 4,000 pairs of - wings, 65 a. 100 do. do. - Large feathers for fans, 100 to 150 pairs, 30 ticals per pecul. - Fish skins, 1,800 peculs, 30 do. do. - Jagra or palm-sugar, 150,000 pots, 4 to 6 pots 1 tical. - Rattans, 200,000 bundles, 4 ticals per 100 bundles. - - The foregoing is the quantity ascertained by the government for - 1832, to which may be added a considerable quantity for each - article smuggled, and principally by the Chinese. The exports, - therefore, for the year 1832, taking the foregoing statement to be - correct, amount to a sum not less than _four_ and a _half millions - of dollars_. - - - - -CHAPTER XXI. - - DEPARTURE FROM BANG-KOK FOR - SINGAPORE--SINGAPORE--COMMERCE--BUGIS--MARITIME LAWS--DEPARTURE - FROM SINGAPORE--STRAITS OF GASPAR--ISLAND OF JAVA--POPULATION OF - JAVA--CLOTHING--DYING--STAMPING--FRUITS--BIRDS. - - -Having brought my mission to a close in a very satisfactory manner, -I was, on the evening of the third of April, invited to wait upon -the praklang. The principal object of the visit was to reiterate his -assurances, that every facility should be granted to American commerce, -both in selling their cargoes, and in collecting their debts. And, -furthermore, to state, that the presents the king and himself desired, -should be returned with the ratified treaty. - -The following list was then given of the presents desired by the king -and the praklang:-- - -For the king: Five pairs of stone statues of men and women; some of the -natural and some of the larger size, _clothed in various costumes of -the United States_. Ten pair of vase lamps, of the largest size, plain -glass. One pair of swords, with gold hilt and scabbards; the latter of -_gold_, not _gilt_--shape of blade, a little curved. - -For the praklang: One mirror, (or pair of mirrors,) three cubits long -by two broad, fixed in a stand, so as to form a screen; frame, carved -and gilt; back, painted green. Soft, hairy carpeting, of certain -dimensions; and some flower and fruit trees, planted, or in seed, with -flower-pots. - -I then took leave, after many demonstrations of good-will. - -Some presents of the productions of the country, were sent to me, of -very mean quality, and of inconsiderable value. - -On the fourth, the same boats being in readiness, which brought us to -the city, in the evening we embarked, reached the ship in the morning, -and the day following, made sail down the gulf. - -Our passage to Singapore (a distance of less than a thousand miles) -occupied us till the first of May; the winds being very light and -adverse, and constantly shifting between the south and southeast -points. On the nineteenth, we made the group of islands, called the -"Great Redangs." On the twenty-second, when Pulo Brala was in sight, we -spoke a Portuguese brig from Singapore, having on board an assistant -Roman Catholic bishop for Siam, and a new consul, to take the place -of Mr. Silviera; two days subsequently, we fell in with two small -Cochin-Chinese junks, from the province of Nhiatrang, for Singapore, -who sent a boat alongside, and asked most beseechingly for water, -having been, as they said, destitute of any for the last six days, as -they had brought only an earthen pot or two, for the supply of two -vessels; being apparently wretchedly poor, a full cask was given them, -after they had drunk to satiety. We successively fell in with Pulo -Timoan and Pulo Aor. The vicinity of these islands is remarkable, as -well as the southeastern point of the Malay peninsula, for piratical -vessels, which are constantly cruising about in search of small trading -vessels. On the thirtieth, we were swept by the violence of the current -on the Romania bank, where we anchored in nine and three quarters -fathoms of water; the following day we anchored about two miles from -Singapore, near to our old friend, Captain Lambert, of his Britannic -majesty's frigate, Alligator. - -[Sidenote: SINGAPORE.] - -We called upon governor Ibbetson, who presides over this island, -Malacca, and Pulo Penang, and were received by him and the Honourable -Mr. Bonham with much hospitality and kindness; and subsequently, by -the Honourable Sir Benjamin H. Malhin, the recorder, and lady. The -situation of the governor's house is upon a hill, which overlooks the -town and the numerous islands in the straits. It is a most delightful -situation; the approach to it, from the base of the hill, is lined on -the right side, by nutmeg and other spice trees, &c., being the garden -belonging to the government; but owing to some cause, they do not -succeed well--the fruit does not arrive at maturity. The country in -the immediate neighbourhood of the town, excepting in the direction of -the new harbour, and a few other spots, is still in a state of nature, -the soil giving an ungrateful return for the labour of the husbandman. -Fruit succeeds well, even the delicate mangusteen; but wheat, coffee, -and pepper have repeatedly failed, or the crops have been so -inconsiderable, as to be unworthy of attention. Gambir, alias catechu -or terra japonica, succeeds well; it is used as a die, or chewed with -areca. Esculent plants and farinaceous roots, natural to a tropical -climate, are here in perfection. This island is about twenty-seven -miles long, and from five to fifteen miles in breadth. It is separated -from the Malay peninsula by the old strait of its own name, being from -one fourth to a mile and half in width. - -About three leagues south of the settlement is an extensive chain of -islands, very thinly inhabited by a race of savages. This open space -of water is a continuation of the straits of Malacca, and is called -the strait of Singapore; it is the high road of commerce between the -eastern and western parts of Asia. The town of Singapore was founded -by the British in 1819, and was then only the resort of fishermen and -pirates; and was carefully avoided by the regular traders. The year -following its occupation, it was visited by nearly seventy thousand -tons of shipping, and of this amount, about one fifth were native -vessels, belonging principally to the various islands in the Indian -Archipelago. The establishment of this as a free port, most seriously -affects the commerce of Batavia; it has drawn from it a most valuable -native trade. - -The town is formed upon a regular plan, the streets intersecting each -other at right angles; the streets and roads are in excellent order, -the former having sidewalks. There is a great number of well-built -houses of brick, which are stuccoed, and have tile roofs. Many of the -houses have galleries or porticoes, and the grounds are prettily laid -out with trees and shrubbery. On the less valuable streets, the houses -and shops are built of wood, and covered with tile. On the outskirts, -the houses are thatched, and more particularly those inhabited by the -Bugis and Balinese, and the poorest class of Chinese. A good wooden -bridge connects the peninsula or western part with the eastern. On -this creek, or arm of the sea, into which empties a rivulet, are -situated the principal warehouses; and here small vessels discharge -their cargoes into very convenient and well arranged buildings. The -quays are built of stone, with very convenient slips, and good cranes -for landing goods. The island being situate within a degree and a half -of the equator, no material change takes place--a perpetual summer -reigns--flowers never cease blowing, and fruits are ever in blossom -or progressing towards maturity. It is an old saying, that not a day -passes at Singapore without rain; but it has been well ascertained -that the rainy and fair days are about equal in number throughout the -year; although in some years it has rained about two hundred and forty -days, or two thirds of the year. November and December are the coolest -and most rainy months; the thermometer then falls occasionally as low -as 72 deg., and in the hot and dry months of April and May, it attains to -90 deg.. The climate is remarkably salubrious, and fevers and dysentery, -which are so fatal within the tropics, are here of rare occurrence, -owing, it is supposed, to the free current of air which passes through -the straits; but wherever its beneficial influence is excluded, those -diseases are very fatal; and this is the case about that beautiful and -romantic spot, the new harbour, situate but a few miles to the westward -of the town. The island is also free of those dreadful scourges, storms -and hurricanes, and violent gusts of wind. - -I visited (in company with Captain Lambert, and the commander of the -Peacock) the person who is styled the sultan of Johore, who ceded -this and other islands to the British, for the sum of sixty thousand -dollars, and an annuity of twenty-four thousand per year. He was -formerly chief judge to Sultan Mahomet, of Johore. At his decease, -he seized upon this part of his possessions. The sultan's residence -is surrounded by a high brick wall, having strong gates, guarded by -soldiers. Within it is a new mosque; a hall of audience, neatly built; -with many other houses of brick and thatch. We were conducted into the -hall, which is used as a banqueting place also; and shortly after, -we heard the loud breathing of a person who seemed in deep distress, -endeavouring to ascend the staircase; finally the sultan made his -appearance, and with great difficulty reached the centre of the room. -I verily thought he would have died within the first ten minutes, of -suffocation. He was most grossly, or rather beastly fat, and reminded -us of the Anthropophagi, or men whose heads do grow beneath their -shoulders; for neck, he had none. His eyes were enormously large, and -they had the terrific appearance of having started from their sockets. -He was truly a most disgusting and frightful object. After he was -able to breathe a little freely, the usual compliments passed, and -inquiries made, a feast was brought in, consisting of a great variety -of articles, which were neatly served up by numerous waiters. Two fine -lads, his sons, accompanied him; they were handsomely dressed, wearing -turbans, and armed with daggers. The sultan expressed himself gratified -with the visit, and we then took leave. - -[Sidenote: POPULATION OF SINGAPORE.] - -The population, on the first of January, 1833, was ascertained to -amount to twenty thousand nine hundred and seventy-eight persons. Of -these, fifteen thousand one hundred and eighty-one were males, and -_only_ five thousand nine hundred and ninety-seven _females_. This -motley group are made up of--one hundred and nineteen Europeans; ninety -Indo British; three hundred native Christians; thirty-five Armenians; -two Jews; ninety-six Arabs; seven thousand one hundred and thirty-one -Malays; eight thousand five hundred and seventeen Chinese; one thousand -eight hundred and nineteen natives of Coromandel; five hundred and -five Hindoos; six hundred and forty-five Javanese; one thousand nine -hundred and twenty-six Bugis, Balanese, &c.; thirty-seven Caffrees; -two Parsees. The country and plantations contain seven thousand three -hundred and sixty-two; the islands, which form a dependancy, of which -there are about fifty, contain one thousand and seventy-two; total, -eight thousand four hundred and thirty-four: which leave for the town -of Singapore, twelve thousand five hundred and forty-four, exclusive of -the military and convicts, which amount to about one thousand. - -Singapore is merely a mart for the exchange of merchandise for the -products of Europe, India, and China, the Indian Archipelago, and of -the neighbouring states--the imports from one part forming the exports -to another. The total value of _imports_, for the years 1831 and 1832, -was seventeen millions, eight hundred and nine thousand nine hundred -and forty-eight sicca rupees; and the exports, fifteen millions, -fifty-one thousand five hundred and seventy-three. Of this amount, -nearly one eighth, or about nine hundred thousand dollars in value, -was conducted by native vessels. The fixed exchange of sicca rupees, -is two hundred and ten and a half for one hundred Spanish dollars. The -currency is the Spanish dollar divided into cents. The common weight -is the pecul, of one hundred and thirty-three and a third pounds, -avoirdupois, divided into one hundred catties. The English gross -hundred is also used, as well as the neat hundred. Salt, rice, and -coarse, or unpearled sago, by the koyan, of about forty peculs. - -In the harbour, there may be frequently seen vessels from England, -France, Holland, and other parts of Europe; from the Brazils, Cape -of Good Hope, Mauritius, New South Wales; from Arabia, and various -parts of British and Portuguese India; from Siam, the Malay peninsula, -Camboja, and various ports in Cochin-China, from the gulf of Siam -to the gulf of Tonquin, (Tung-king;) from Macao, and various parts -of the provinces of Canton and Tokien, the former being called the -"Red-headed Junks," and the latter the "Green-headed," owing to their -being distinguished in this manner by being painted with these colours; -from Manila, Dutch and native craft from Java, Banca, and Bulembang; -and by Malay craft only, from the river Campar, and other eastern ports -in Sumatra. But the most important branch of the trade with the Indian -islanders, is that conducted by the _Bugis_ of Wajo, a state of the -Celebes. - -The Bugis write and speak a different language from either of the other -tribes of the Celebes, either of Macassar, Mandar, or Kaili. They have -a code of civil and criminal law, referring to a state of government -and society, of a patriarchal character; and they have also a code -of maritime laws, dated in the year 1087, of the Hejera, (Hegira,) -from which I have made some extracts. Wajo is situated nearly in the -centre of the Celebes, and the Bugis live on the northern banks of an -extensive lake, about twenty-four miles in breadth. The outlet of the -lake is a river, which falls into the bay of Boni, and is navigable -for boats of twenty tons. This people are the sole native carriers of -the Archipelago, possessing an industry and enterprise far beyond the -generality of the Malayan tribes. They carry on an extensive trade with -all the ports in the Celebes; to Bonivati; to the eastern and western -coasts of Borneo; to the islands of Lombok, Bali, Sumbawa, Flores, -Sandal Wood, Ceram, Timor, the Arrows, New Guinea, &c. These bring -gold-dust, bird's-nests, tortoise-shell, camphor, paddy, bichos do -mar, rattans, pepper, shark's-fins, fish-maws, agar-agar, (sea-weed,) -garro-wood, mats, pamore, iron, striped and Tartan cotton cloths, oil, -tallow, mother-of-pearl, shells, &c., &c. Their cargoes are valuable, -and vary from ten to forty thousand dollars. They take, in return, -opium, British and Indian piece-goods, fire-arms, powder, Siamese -iron-pans, &c.; Chinese coarse earthenware, &c., &c. - -[Sidenote: MARITIME LAWS.] - -Maritime laws were established (as stated in a pamphlet published -in the year 1832) by Matorvei Father Gapa, (a practitioner in law,) -at Macassar, in the Hejera 1087, on Monday, the seventeenth day of -Moharain. The first _five_ sections relate to the rate of freight and -passage-money, to and from various places, and explaining a mode of -trade, existing to the present day, in the east. A person having goods, -either natural produce or manufactured, puts his articles on board a -prahu, going to any place where he can find a market: these goods pay a -per centage freight, as laid down by the law, and the passage-money is -included in that charge; and during the voyage, he takes part in rowing -or sailing the prahu, &c., &c. - -The _sixth_ treats on the freight of money. If the amount is one -hundred and ten real, or less, it pays no freight; but if it exceeds -that sum, it pays one half the charge on goods to the same place. -The people of the prow (prahu) are not allowed to land if the master -does not receive the full freight; and further, they must assist in -bailing the water out and fastening the boat: nor are they to be freed -from their charge till she is laid up for the season. The seventh, -eighth, ninth, and tenth sections, treat on a mode of shares in trade -and shipping, viz.:--Seventh: if the owner of the prahu send a man in -charge of her, or if he let her to any one in the season, and furnish -the turobatu and turomudi, together with crew, and arms and stores -sufficient, and the boat should be damaged or lost, through the neglect -of the crew, &c., in that case they must make good the damages, or loss -of the boat: the shares of the turobatu and turomudi, and the expenses -of the prahu, being first paid. Eighth: if the person who sails the -prahu, also furnish the turomudi, turobatu, the crew and arms, then the -owner and the captain go equal shares, after the turomudi, turobatu, -and the expenses of the outfit, are adjusted. - -Ninth: if the owner of the prahu gives her in charge to a captain and -the latter provide turomudi, turobatu and the crew, then the profit -is divided into three equal shares; two are taken by the owner of the -prahu, and one by the captain or person who charters her for the trip; -but previous to the division of the profits, the shares of turomudi, -turobatu and expenses of the prahu are always paid. - -Tenth: if the owner of the prahu furnish the turomudi, and the captain -provide the turobatu, and both go equal shares in the expenses of -the crew, arms, and outfit, &c., in that case the profits are divided -into two equal shares, between the owner and the captain, after the -turomudi, turobatu, and expenses of the prahu are paid. If the persons -who sail the prahu furnish the turomudi, turobatu and crew, arms, -&c., then the profits are divided into three shares: two shares go -to the person who navigates her, and one to the owner. The turomudi, -turobatu and expenses of the prahu being first paid; if there be a -previous contract or agreement between the owner and the navigator, in -that case, the law takes no cognizance in the matter: if not, the law -directs as stated above.[A] - -[A] The turomudi and turobatu have the principal management in -navigating the boat; the _former_ has charge of the after part of the -prahu and seeing the water bailed out, which is done by a bucket and -pulley; the _latter_, that of the rigging and forward part, under the -direction of the turomudi. - -The eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth sections regulating the amount -of passage money, have, no doubt been framed principally, if not -exclusively, in consideration of the practice of carrying slaves -to distant parts for sale, since women are included, who otherwise -never travel by water. The fourteenth and last section, lays down the -principle of a court of native admiralty law, but the latter part is -vague, as well as arbitrary; it is as follows: the captain is king -while at sea, and his will is absolute law, from which there is no -appeal; but if the turomudi, turobatu and the whole crew unite without -one dissentient voice, they can overrule the will of the captain. The -turomudi and turobatu hold the rank of prime ministers while on board -the prahu. If any matter of difference arise between the crew, the -captain, and turomudi, and turobatu, shall sit in council, and give -judgment in the case; and if they should pass the sentence of death -it must be executed; nor can any judgment given at sea be disannulled -after the prahu is returned to port. If an affray or murder should take -place among the crew, and the king's son be involved, or if a freeman -should kill a king's son, in either case the captain is not held -responsible on his arrival into port, by virtue of the power delegated -to him by the king. - -We sailed from Singapore at midnight, on the eleventh of May, intending -to pass through the straits of Rhio, and to touch at the Dutch port -of that name in the island of Bintang. This port is the resort of -American vessels; being excluded from Singapore, they are obliged to -carry on their trade by means of coasting craft, between the two -ports, which causes an additional expense of about two and a half -per centum. The wind being contrary from the southern quarter, and -the strait very narrow, we were compelled to pass again through the -straits of Singapore, between the Malay peninsula and Pedra Branca -(white rock) into the China sea. The current being at times strongly -against us, and the wind very light between S. W. and S. S. E., the -ship was frequently brought to anchor in the China sea, which we found -generally very smooth. On the eighteenth, we saw Pulo Toty--on the day -following, the "Gooning" mountains on Banca. On the twenty-second, we -anchored near the woody island of Gaspar, and sent a boat on shore, but -not an inhabitant was discovered, it being only an occasional place of -resort for pirates. On the twenty-fourth, we anchored in the straits of -Gaspar, between the islands of Leat and Banca, and remained there till -the thirtieth, the wind being from the southward, and contrary, and the -current setting to the northward, from half a knot to three miles per -hour; it being rather feeble between eight and ten, in the morning, and -strongest towards midnight. - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL AT BATAVIA.] - -On the evening we anchored in the straits, we discovered twenty-one -piratical proas off the north end of Pulo Leat, and fourteen off -the southern point; rockets were thrown up by vessels stationed -midway between the squadrons, during the night. The ship being in -readiness for action, it is probable they discovered lights from -the battle-lanterns on the gun-deck, during the night, for in the -morning only a few scattered vessels were to be seen. We were at -length released from this unpleasant strait, which has shipwrecked so -many lives, either by being drowned, or else murdered by the savages -which infest them, by a fine leading breeze, passed safely into the -Java sea, through the great group called the "Thousand Islands," and -anchored on the fifth of June in the unhealthy roadstead of Batavia, -where at length we found the United States' schooner Boxer, Lieut. -Comdt. Shields, at anchor awaiting our arrival. Having received a -very hospitable invitation from Mr. Forrestice, an American merchant, -of the first respectability, to reside with him at "Fancy Farm," his -beautiful country-seat, three miles from the city, I accepted his kind -offer and remained there for nearly two months. According to history, -the Portuguese first visited Java in 1511, an ambassador having been -sent there from Malacca. The Dutch arrived in 1596, settling first -at Bantam, but they afterward removed to Jacatia and in 1618 it was -seized by them, and all the inhabitants put to the sword who did not -seek safety in flight; the walls of the ancient city were razed to the -ground, the town burnt, and nothing remained but the name. On this spot -was the present city of Batavia founded. The island, with the exception -of five years, from 1811 to 1816, when it was in the possession of the -British, has been held by no European nation, but the Dutch. The island -of Java, called generally by the natives Jawa, is in a straight line -to its extreme points six hundred and sixty-six statute miles: and in -breadth, from fifty-six to one hundred and thirteen. - -The origin of its name remains still in great uncertainty. The northern -coast is low, and generally swampy and unhealthy. The southern coast, -on the contrary, consists of a series of perpendicular rocks, but, -generally speaking, it is low and swampy; in some places suddenly -rising into hills, as about Angier. The largest mountains have an -elevation of from five to twelve thousand feet--they plainly show -their volcanic origin. The western part is called the Sunda country; -and the eastern the Javan, or the country of the true Javanese. They -occupy nearly equal parts; different languages are spoken in the two -districts, mixed a good deal with Malay, which is almost wholly spoken -on the seacoast. Java, like most mountainous countries, is extremely -well watered; but the size of the island precludes the possibility of -there being any large rivers. The rain commences with the westerly -winds, in October, is at its height in December and January, gradually -subsides in March or April, and is succeeded by easterly winds and fair -weather. - -During the rainy season, the whole of the extensive swamp, on which -Batavia stands, is completely submerged, and the roads to the city -are then nearly impassable; this is the season when reptiles abound, -and moschetoes and insects bear sovereign sway. This is not the most -unhealthy part of the year; but when the rains are subsiding, and -expose an immense surface covered with vegetable matter, in a state of -putridity, fevers, dysenteries, &c., &c., are then uplifted by every -breeze, and borne on every wind. - -The principal harbour of the island is Surabaya, which is formed by the -approaching extremities of the eastern part of Java, and the island -of Madura. The second river in size, in Java, empties itself into the -sea at this place. The next in importance, is Batavia; the roadstead is -sheltered by several islands, in the outer part of the bay. - -The population of Java and Madura, in 1815, amounted to four millions, -six hundred and fifteen thousand, two hundred and seventy, of which -ninety-four thousand four hundred and forty-one were Chinese; and the -island of Madura contained two hundred and eighteen thousand, six -hundred and seventy-nine. The population of the principal capitals -was estimated as follows:--Batavia and its extensive suburbs have a -circumference of about twenty-four miles, and contain about three -hundred and fifteen thousand souls; Semarang, is calculated at twenty -thousand; and Surabaya, at twenty-five thousand. - -I herewith present a comparative statement of exports from Java, during -ten years, according to the report of the customs:-- - -[Sidenote: TABLES OF EXPORTS.] - - --------+-------------+------------+-------------+------+----------- - | [A]Coffee. | Pepper. | Indigo. | Arak.| Hides. - --------+-------------+------------+-------------+------+----------- - | Piculs. | Piculs. | Pounds. | Leag.| Ticals. - +-------------+------------+-------------+------+----------- - 1823 | 285,000,000 | 3,000,000 | -- | 605 | 37,000,000 - 1824 | 242,000,000 | 3,000,000 | -- | 468 | 58,000,000 - 1825 | 278,000,000 | 8,000,000 | 6,000,000 | 175 | 45,000,000 - 1826 | 340,000,000 | 4,000,000 | 9,000,000 | 433 | 75,000,000 - 1827 | 400,000,000 | 4,000,000 | 8,000,000 | 464 | 60,000,000 - 1828 | 416,000,000 | 8,000,000 | 23,000,000 | 534 | 47,000,000 - 1829 | 282,000,000 | 6,000,000 | 46,000,000 | 1400 | 44,000,000 - 1830 | 389,000,000 | 6,000,000 | 22,000,000 | 1900 | 30,000,000 - 1831 | 300,000,000 | 6,000,000 | 43,000,000 | 1500 | 63,000,000 - 1832 | 314,000,000 | 7,000,000 | 168,000,000 | 2000 | 82,000,000 - ---------+---------+----------+---------+-------------+----------- - | Mace. | Nutmegs. | Cloves. | Sugar. | Tin. ---------+---------+----------+---------+-------------+----------- - | Piculs. | Piculs. | Piculs. | Piculs. | Piculs. - +---------+----------+---------+-------------+----------- - 1823 | 428 | 1341 | 1726 | 53,000,000 | 12,000,000 - 1824 | 1500 | 3327 | 1750 | 47,000,000 | 30,000,000 - 1825 | 735 | 3471 | 1930 | 16,000,000 | 9,000,000 - 1826 | 556 | 2237 | 542 | 20,000,000 | 14,000,000 - 1827 | 1085 | 6000 | 777 | 32,000,000 | 16,000,000 - 1828 | 600 | 1650 | 1832 | 26,000,000 | 20,000,090 - 1829 | 180 | 1160 | 2431 | 77,000,000 | 24,000,000 - 1830 | 177 | 1300 | 803 | 109,000,000 | 21,000,000 - 1831 | 745 | 2550 | 1531 | 120,000,000 | 30,000,000 - 1832 | 949 | 3850 | 5144 | 246,000,000 | 40,000,000 - -[A] The culture of coffee was first introduced into Java in 1723. - - -----+------------+------------+-------- - | Rice. | Rattans. | Tortsi. - +------------+------------+-------- - | Koy. | Piculs. | Piculs. - 1823 | 4,000,000 | 5,000,000 | 26 - 1824 | 3,000,000 | 2,000,000 | 47 - 1825 | 8,000,000 | 4,000,000 | 22 - 1826 | 6,000,000 | 4,000,000 | 28 - 1827 | 10,000,000 | 15,000,000 | 19 - 1828 | 16,000,000 | 31,000,000 | 37 - 1829 | 15,000,000 | 30,000,000 | 83 - 1830 | 15,000,000 | 5,000,000 | 43 - 1831 | 10,000,000 | 5,000,000 | 95 - 1832 | 23,000,000 | 14,000,000 | 141 - -Java exports, besides the articles named, camphire from Sumatra and -the Celebes. Edible bird's-nests, beeswax, gold dust, precious stones, -saltpetre, teak and other timber, and cabinet woods, tobacco, stic-lac, -brass, European, India and China goods; tin, from Banka, &c.; benzoin, -bichos do mar, rattans, die-woods from Borneo and Sumatra, sandal and -other fine woods, pungent oils, horses, Bali clothes, elephants' teeth, -Japan, copper, leather, areca-nuts, cubebs, boots, shoes, &c. - - ------------+----------------+---------------- - | Imports during | Imports during - | 1831. | 1832. - +----------------+---------------- - Merchandise | 13,500,000 | 12,000,000 - Specie | 1,100,000 | 900,000 - +----------------+---------------- - | 14,600,000 | 12,900,000 - - ------------+----------------+---------------- - | Exports during | Exports during - | 1831. | 1832. - +----------------+---------------- - Produce | 14,100,000 | 21,100,000 - Specie | 600,000 | 950,000 - +----------------+---------------- - | 14,700,000 | 22,050,000 - -Passing the straits of Sunda, not touching at Angier, there arrived -at Batavia, in one year, ending the first of July, 1833, twenty-nine -American vessels, containing eleven thousand one hundred and -thirty-eight tons; and touched at Angier, eighty-two American vessels, -containing twenty-seven thousand one hundred and thirty-nine tons; of -these, twenty-four went to Batavia, the remainder to Canton, Manila, -&c., &c. - -[Sidenote: JAVA.] - -To show the importance, in part, of American commerce, trading to the -eastward of the cape of Good Hope, I herewith subjoin the following -statement of arrivals at two ports in Java. It appears, by the -custom-house returns, that there arrived at Batavia, in one year, -ending the first of July, 1833, twenty-nine American vessels, amounting -to eleven thousand one hundred and thirty-eight tons; and that -eighty-two American vessels, having a tonnage of twenty-seven thousand -seven hundred and thirty-nine tons, touched at Angier during one year, -ending the first of June of the same year. This latter statement does -not show all the vessels that passed through the straits of Sunda, -and from the China and Java seas. If to this statement is added, the -great and valuable conveyance to Sumatra, the bay of Bengal, &c., who -will say it does not deserve the fostering and protecting hand of the -government of the United States? - -With the exception of two vessels, sent out on a special mission, the -Peacock and Boxer, to Asia, &c., the visit of the Potomac to Qualah -Battu, to punish an act of piracy and murder; with the hurried return -of one or two vessels from the western coast of South America, which -barely touch at Manila or Java for refreshments, this most valuable -part of our commerce has been extremely neglected. - -[Sidenote: EMBASSY TO THE EAST.] - -We have also a valuable whale-fishery on the coast of Japan; and -accounts often reach us of American vessels being cast on shore, on the -islands and reefs in the vast Indian Archipelago, the crew being either -murdered or made slaves, until a ransom is paid for them, unless they -are relieved by some humane merchantman or foreign man-of-war: there is -not a single armed vessel of the United States to relieve or protect -them. Our vast commerce to the eastward of the cape of Good Hope, most -assuredly, should not be so overlooked, and left unprotected; at least, -it deserves an occasional visit from our vessels of war, to Madagascar -and the Comoro islands; the ports in east Africa, as far as Zanzibar -and Mombos; to Mocha, in the Red sea, and the western coasts of India. -They should also visit, once in two or three months, the native trading -ports in Sumatra, and proceed as far as the western coast of Japan, -and among the islands of the Indian Archipelago, showing their flag, -and conciliating, by every possible means, the natives they may meet, -by giving them suitable presents occasionally, which would cost but a -small sum. These visits ought to be paid once or twice during each and -every subsequent year. - -The totally unprotected state of our commerce, from the cape of Good -Hope to Japan, deserves the _immediate_ and _constant_ protection and -attention of the American government. The silkworm has never succeeded -well, owing to the want of common information or gross negligence; -therefore the chief material of Javan clothing is cotton. The favourite -cloth made in the country is called batik, of which they make their -sarongs, or loose clothes, which extend from the waist nearly to the -ankles. If it is intended to ornament the cloth with one or more -patterns, it is first steeped in cunjee, or rice-water, to prevent the -colours from running; it is then dried and calendered; hot wax is then -distributed over it, from a vessel, running through a small tube; the -pattern is then formed by being traced, or etched over with a pointed -stick. Every part which is intended to be white, is left covered with -wax. It is then dipped once or more in the die, or else the die is -placed on with a pencil. If two or more colours are intended, every -part of the ground, excepting the new figure, is covered with wax, and -so on till the whole figure is finished: the wax is then melted off -in hot water. The figures have a velvet appearance, the edges of the -different colours lessening in brightness. The only permanent colours -are blue and scarlet, or red. They stamp palempores, or coverlids, with -carved wooden blocks. - -The English imitation cottons, readily fading, have been brought into -disrepute. The kris, or kreese, is universally worn; and the value and -beauty of the weapon, are a test of the rank or wealth of the wearer. -In full dress, two are frequently worn, and sometimes even four: it -seems to be an indispensable part of their dress. It is an instrument -more suitable for assassination than for war. - -Neither the nutmeg, clove, nor cinnamon, is indigenous; those which -have been cultivated, are found to have thriven very well. But it does -not comport with the views of the government to extend the cultivation -of spices in Java: it is even in contemplation to destroy the rice -plantations on Sumatra, in the neighbourhood of Bencoolen. The vine -was extensively cultivated in some of the eastern provinces; but the -growth of it was discouraged by the government, as it interfered, at -that time, with the Dutch possessions at the cape of Good Hope. The -soap-tree, of which the kernel is used in washing; the cotton-tree, the -wax and caoutchouc, or the tree which yields the gum-elastic, and the -bamboo and rattan, are common. The cocoa-nut, and gomuti-palms, are -also very abundant, &c., &c. - -[Sidenote: FRUITS OF JAVA.] - -No region of the earth, says Marsden, can boast an equal abundance -and variety of indigenous fruits as Java; but the Mangusteen bears -the pre-eminence among Indian fruits, and, in the opinion of most -foreigners, is superior to the cherrapayer of Lima, or any other known -fruit; it suits the greatest diversity of tastes: is mildly acid, -of a most delicate flavour, by no means luscious or cloying to the -appetite; the shape is globular, the rind about a fourth of an inch in -thickness, and it is as large as a good-sized apple; the shell is of a -deep crimson or rather purple and quite brittle; disrobing it of its -purple coat, there is displayed to view a snow-white pulp, distributed -in three or four cloves; they are soft, very juicy, and occasionally -touched with imperial purple, a colour once thought worthy of royalty -only, and had it been known in ancient days, it would have been called -the royal fruit; within this truly delicate pulp lies the seed. But in -the opinion of the natives and _many_ foreigners who have long resided -in the East, the _durian_ has the highest rank: the odour is peculiarly -offensive to _most_ foreigners, savouring of roasted onions: it has the -appearance of bread-fruit, but the spires of the husk are larger: it -is of a spherical shape, generally, and the size of a man's head, some -being larger; when ripe they are yellow, and crack like a ripe melon, -at the stalk end: they are generally split into quarters, each one -having several small cells, that enclose the fruit, which is covered -with a pellicle or skin, and encloses a stone covered also with a skin; -these are roasted and eaten, and partake of the flavour of chestnuts; -the fruit is the size of a small egg, white as milk but sometimes -tinged with yellow, and as soft as cream; it can only be eaten when -at maturity; it grows on the body or greater branches of the tree, is -the product only of the Indian islands, and does not grow in Siam or -Cochin-China; it is always more expensive than any other fruit. I do -not deem it necessary to name any other fruits, excepting the wild -raspberry, which grows in the mountains, and the fruits named in the -account of Buitenzorg. - -Of esculent vegetables which contribute to the food and sustenance of -man, rice is the most important, of which it is said there are upward -of a hundred varieties. Maize or Indian corn ranks next. They cultivate -also wheat, the sweet and the American or European potato, the yam or -ubi, and pulse in a great variety; the bread-fruit also, and most of -the vegetables of colder climates, the seed being imported continually -from the cape of Good Hope. - -Neither milk, nor any preparation from it, is prized by the natives; -salted eggs are an important article of food: they are covered with -equal parts of salt and ashes, or salt and brick-dust, made into a -thick paste: it preserves them for many months. - -The chewing of areca-nut, as well as siri or betel-leaf, tobacco -and gambir, is common to all classes. Every person who is able owns -a siri-box, more or less valuable; opium is exceedingly coveted by -them, and is both chewed and smoked; added to these is the disgusting -practice of holding tobacco between the lips, and at one corner of the -mouth, the saliva from it staining the lips, and running over the chin; -they use, also, arrack, and an intoxicating liquor made from the gomuti -palm. - -There are no metals or precious stones, but there are many minerals. - -They possess a fine breed of horses, strong, fleet, and well made, of -about thirteen hands high--also the ox, buffalo, goats, some sheep, and -the hog. Of wild beasts, there are several species of tiger, cat, the -jackall, wild dog, rhinoceros or wild Javan ox, the wild hog and the -stag, the rib-faced and axis deer, the weasel, squirrel, and a variety -of monkeys. The turkey, goose, duck, fowls; also, two kinds of parrots: -the peacock, falcon, carrion-crow, and the owl. The number of birds of -distinct species are said not much to exceed two hundred. - - - - -CHAPTER XXII. - - BATAVIA--BURYING-GROUNDS--SERVANTS' WAGES--ACADEMY OF - ARTS--DEPARTURE FROM BATAVIA--ARRIVAL AT ANGIER--DEPARTURE FROM - ANGIER--RED SEA--ARRIVAL AT MOCHA--TURKIE BEN AL MAS--PALACE OF - MOCHA--CURRENCY AT MOCHA--TRANSPARENT STONE--COLOUR OF THE RED SEA. - - -[Sidenote: BATAVIA.] - -I now proceed to give some account of Batavia, &c. Although this -city is situated in the midst of low, marshy ground, abounding in -rice-swamps, and considered as the most unhealthy spot in the world, -yet it is, nevertheless, a great commercial place, and is much -frequented by vessels bound to or from the China sea, Hindostan, -Sumatra, Singapore, &c., &c.; and it is the only place in the world -which has any trade to Japan, with the exception of China. It is -most conveniently situated to obtain commercial information, and -for refreshments. Before Singapore was made a free port, it was the -principal mart for the country trade of the East Indies. Subsequently -it has much diminished, and the very valuable trade with the Bugis, -or natives of the Celebes, and other islanders of the Indian -Archipelago, has been entirely diverted to Singapore, where the traders -can always obtain a ready sale for their cargoes, and receive, in -return, European, India, and Chinese goods, at more moderate prices, -without having to pay any duties, or be subject to those inconvenient -restrictions, which are so annoying in Dutch ports. - -The immense ware-houses, running from street to street, situated on the -great canal and river, leading into the bay, which were once burdened -with merchandise, are now scantily filled, or nearly empty; and there -are but few places so large as Batavia, in the present day, which show -less signs of an active commerce, less bustle on the quays, or exhibit -a greater degree of dulness, and want of bustle in the streets. This is -owing, in part, to the belligerent attitude of Holland and Belgium; -the alarming war with the Sumatrans; the establishment of a free port -by the British; but more particularly, to the narrow-contracted views -of the government, in regard to commerce. The Dutch government wish -to drive all foreign commerce from their ports in Netherlands' India, -with the exception of the native traders of the Indian isles; and -to extend, if it be possible, their unjust and iniquitous system of -monopolies, and of forced cultivation, upon the natives, which have -so often driven them to despair and revolt, causing whole districts, -containing many thousands, to abandon their lands and their homes, -and fly to the fastnesses of the mountains, or to what are called the -native provinces--preferring a very precarious mode of living, to being -made the worst of slaves to the worst of masters, by being forced to -cultivate coffee, and then to sell it for about half its fair market -value, to the Dutch company, leaving them, in fact, no means of support. - -Old Batavia is but the shadow of what it was in former days. It was -once called the "Queen of the East;" her merchants were "princes of the -earth," in point of wealth, and lived in a style of magnificence, which -far surpassed every other to the eastward of the cape of Good Hope, -with the exception, in more modern days, of Calcutta. A traveller, -visiting Batavia at the present day, inquires for the splendid palaces, -noble avenues of trees, and neat canals, with the gay pleasure-boats, -which used to be seen sporting on their surface, accompanied with -music, and graced with numberless enchanting females. He then visits -the most fashionable streets of former days, and a truly painful sight -is presented at every step: of choked canals covered with slime, and -green stagnant pools, a resort of frogs and snakes, and other reptiles. -The noble avenues of trees, which led to splendid habitations, and the -heavy, massive gateways, are still seen; but the houses are either -crumbling in the dust, or else a miserable palm-leaf hovel encumbers -the space they once ornamented. But the gay inhabitants, who once gave -life and animation to these fair scenes, where are they? Alas! fled -with "the years beyond the flood." Their bodies lie mouldering, not -only in the tens of thousands, or even the hundreds of thousands, but -in the millions of graves which occupy, for many miles in extent, the -city and its suburbs. - -They present a most painful and humiliating spectacle to every -beholder, whose feelings are not wholly callous to so sad a scene. The -tenantable houses which remain, are occupied by a squalid and sickly -race of Chinese, Malays and Bugis, who are generally very poor, and -live upon the scantiest substance, being _unable_ to remove to a better -country, away from the pestiferous air which destroys their health, -occasioned by deleterious swamps, stagnant pools, and the miasma which -is constantly generating from the decomposition of vegetable matter. - -It may be thought that I have given an exaggerated statement of the -frightful mortality which _has_ prevailed, and frequently _does_ -prevail at Batavia--which clothes the ground with graves, and encumbers -it with monuments; but the returns of the Dutch records, according -to Raynal, give the deaths of _eighty-seven_ thousand sailors and -soldiers, in the hospitals, from 1714 to 1776; and upward of one -million of inhabitants, in the very short space of twenty-two years, -from 1730 to 1752, which can no longer leave any doubts as to its -perfect correctness. - -Since the walls of the city were demolished by the British, and a great -number of filthy and useless canals have been filled up, the general -opinion is, (and more particularly within the last half dozen years,) -that the old town is rather less sickly than formerly; however, no new -houses are being erected within the city proper, but are extending -altogether beyond the old barrier, in a southerly and easterly -direction towards the country, from two to five miles, where it has -been found much more healthy. - -Stately avenues of trees line the roads, and the few canals remaining -are kept more clean than formerly. The modern houses are airy and -spacious, generally of one story in height, and surrounded generally, -with very wide piazzas. The avenues leading to the houses are kept -neatly gravelled; and the grounds are adorned with trees, shrubs, -and flowers: showing a correct taste which seems (to make use of -a mercantile phrase) to have been imported from England, for it -is quite at variance with the general style of laying out Dutch -pleasure-grounds. In fact, there is an air of neatness and comfort -displayed, which serves to divert the mind from dwelling too much on -the fact, that you are living in the midst of this store-house of -disease, where you are constantly warned by the inhabitants to keep -away from every partial draft of air, for if the perspiration is -checked, a fever or diarrhoea, or more fatal dysentery will ensue; and -you are again warned, if the sea-breeze should set in _early_, before -the sun has had time to absorb the exhalations, the malaria of the -marshes, to keep within your room with closed doors. The night air is -also highly deleterious, and the fervid rays of a noonday sun not less -fatal, so that no person who is able fails to keep a carriage. Constant -and profuse perspiration soon impairs the digestive organs, loss of -appetite follows and debility ensues: mental and bodily exertion -becomes painful, and the health is soon impaired. - -These are a _few_ among the _many, many_ drawbacks of an unhealthy -tropical climate; yet every climate is to be found in Java, from -the most unhealthy to the most salubrious, from swamps teeming with -exhalations in the highest degree noxious, to the pure mountain-breeze, -which brings health on its wings, and is redolent with the sweets -wafted from a thousand fragrant flowers. - -The merchants go to the city about nine, take tiffin at their -counting-houses at twelve, return to the country about four, and dine -between six and seven. As soon as the lights appear on the table, it -is the signal for the sport of myriads of moschetoes and midges. Boots -are then indispensable, unless the feet and ankles are otherwise well -covered; when the knife and fork do not claim the attention, your hands -are industriously employed in driving off these eternal pests from the -exposed parts of the body. - -The hospitality of the English, Scotch, and Americans, is proverbial, -and they live upon the most amicable terms; there is none of that petty -jealousy, and bad feeling, which is seen to exist among rival houses, -in many other places. - -The custom-house stands on the brink of the great canal, which leads -into the bay, and where it once terminated, it probably extends now -three quarters of a mile beyond it, to the barrier or break-water, -which has lately been erected at its entrance; it is extremely shallow, -suitable only for very small craft, and as it is constantly filling up -by accumulations of filth from the city, and by mud and sand thrown in -by the sea-breeze, it is probable it will within a few years, extend -as far again into the bay. As a baneful monopolizing spirit seems to -pervade this government in almost every particular, even the poor -fishermen are not exempt, who labour continually in a broiling sun, or -a deluge of rain, following their vocation far at sea. Their fish are -sold at public auction at two o'clock every afternoon, so that the -government may take their share of the "_fishes_" which fall to their -lot; the "_loaves_" are obtained from the poor cultivators of the soil. -The retailers, mostly Chinese, buy and hawk them about in baskets every -where, at a very considerably advanced price. - -The criminals repairing and extending the canal, may be hourly seen -in the water, among caymans or huge alligators, and are said never -to have been molested by them, but in one instance, while a white -man is certain to be seized at once. If the alligator show a decided -preference for the whites, the buffaloes throughout India show a very -strong aversion to them, and either attack them or run from them in -dismay; yet the smallest Indian boy has them under complete control. - -The buffaloes, on the great western prairies in the United States, -show the same aversion to the whites, or probably to all hunters, -and, whenever they see them, they fly in great terror; the hunters, -therefore, always go to leeward of the herd. - -[Sidenote: BURYING-GROUNDS.] - -The Chinese burying-grounds occupy a vast extent of land in the -suburbs; I may say, with truth, of many miles. Near one of them is an -old temple, in which are deposited, probably, fifteen or twenty idols, -principally made of granite, dug up at various times, on the island. -They are said to be of Javanese origin, but they must have been brought -thither by Bramins in bygone days. The Chinese worship them, as they -do every thing else that bears the remotest appearance to "the human -face divine," or any of the hideous images representing the demon of -mischief--any thing, but the one, great, invisible Being. The public -archives are kept in the extensive building, called the palace, at -Weltevoredem. - -The governor does not occupy this building, when in town, but a much -smaller one, on the street of which the "Genootschap," or academy of -arts and sciences occupies one part, in the building kept for public -parties, called the "Harmonic." - -The palace is a noble building, and kept in good order. In the audience -hall are about forty pictures, of the Dutch governor-generals of -Netherlands' India. Some of them are dressed in very quaint costume, -and if their countenances are faithfully represented, I must say, no -man would willingly change faces with the greater part of them. There -are a few, however, of noble and manly features, who have nothing -savouring of the "thumbscrew" in their countenances. _Generally_, the -paintings are bad--some four or five are very valuable. A full-length -portrait of his present majesty is placed at the head of the room. - -The wages paid to servants have nearly doubled within a few years; the -present rate is from six to twelve guilders (equal to two dollars, -forty cents, or four dollars, eighty cents) per month, out of which -they furnish their provisions in part, which consist principally of -rice, it being a very cheap article in Java. Considering that each -servant attends to but one piece of duty--that one bujong attends to -the cutting of grass only, for two horses, which occupies but a small -part of the day, and that the larger portion of the time of the almost -innumerable servants is spent in idleness, labour is excessively high, -compared with that of any other country, even the dearest parts of the -United States. The house-servants, with few exceptions, are Malays, who -speak no English. - -The Genootschap, or Academy of Arts and Sciences, has a small library -of a few hundred volumes. With the exception of a model of a bridge, -a Javanese lion, some half dozen miniature models of Japanese houses, -warlike instruments, a few coins, and a few common shells, there is -nothing worth naming. - -Our kind Batavian friends accompanied us on board, and on the -twenty-second of July we sailed for Angier, where we arrived the -following day. During our stay the thermometer ranged in the roadstead -from 83 deg. to 89 deg., and the barometer between 29.75 to 29.95. There were -only five days on which it rained, and then only light showers. There -were some cases of dysentery, diarrhoea, and fevers, but there were no -deaths among the crew. There were about two cases of dysentery to one -of fever. - -Toward midnight, on the twenty-eighth of July, as the moon was gently -sinking behind the mountains which overlook the campong of Angier, a -light land-breeze suddenly sprung up. Orders were immediately given to -weigh anchor. The shrill whistle of the boatswain and his two mates, -followed by their deep grum voices, calling all hands, "roused many a -heavy sleeper, unwillingly from his hammock," wishing the boatswain, -and his call together, in Davy Jones's locker. We were under way in -a few minutes, in company with the Boxer, proceeding through the -straits of Sunda, having once more launched into the Indian ocean. -The lofty peak, of Crokatoa, the mountainous island of Tamarind, -and the lesser islands of Thwart, the Way, the Button, and the Cap, -with part of the coast of Sumatra, were distinctly visible. Before -losing sight of Prince's island, the wind came from the southward and -eastward, accompanied with fine weather, which continued to waft us -rapidly over the rolling billows to the westward, till the sixteenth -of August, having run our westing down mostly between the latitude -of 10 deg. 11'' to secure strong breezes; being then in latitude about -2 deg. south and 52'' east longitude, the wind veered to the southwest, -but without any diminution of strength, or any alteration of the fine -weather we had previously enjoyed. It continued until the evening of -the twentieth, when we descried, first, the most easterly land on the -continent of Africa, cape Orfui, otherwise called, by the Arabs, Ras -Hafoon; then the mountains lying to the northward of this cape, called -Gebel Jordafoon; and then cape Guardafui, or the cape of burials; the -northeast extremity of Africa, and the southernmost cape of the gulf -of Arabia. The land appeared like the outline of a well-defined cloud, -high in the heavens. The next morning, we doubled close round this -bold promontory, which was so formidable in ancient times to the timid -Arabian mariner. - -[Sidenote: BURNT ISLAND.] - -"The shrill spirit of the storm sat not dim upon the bluff brow," "nor -enjoyed the death of the mariner," for the morning was bright, and -fair, and joyous. The loud roaring of the sea shamed not the thunder, -as it was wont to do, for it was almost unruffled. The tremendous sound -of the mysterious bell, which was wont to be heard high above the loud -surges of the ocean, warning the mariner of his fate, if he approached -too boldly, was hushed; and the bodiless hand, which was seen to give -it motion, had disappeared in the lapse of ages. We kept close to the -northern shore, as far as Mette, or Burnt island, to take the benefit -of a current setting to the westward. - -Being so near the land, we suffered severely from the hot, suffocating -air of this inhospitable region. Clothes were a burden, sleep fled -from us, and the slightest exertion was painful. The whole aspect of -the land was most dreary and most desolate. Mountains and plains of -sand, only, were presented to our view, looking "like drifted gold -in summer's cloudless beam." Not a tree, nor a shrub, nor scarcely a -blade of grass, to relieve the eye of the extreme aridity of this vast -wilderness. Here and there, at great intervals, were a few miserable -huts, in a gully, formed by the washing away of the sand; and the -great comfort derived from the "shadow of a high rock in a hot and -dreary land," would have been felt here as an inestimable blessing. -Now and then, a naked and poverty-stricken fisherman was seen stealing -along the shore, propelling, with his double-bladed paddle, a frail -catamaran, made of two or three sticks of wood, sitting to his waist -in water, having a rush sack to put his fish in, and liable to be made -the prey of the voracious blue shark, which abounds in these waters. He -was in search of what could not be found on the land, to wit, something -edible; something to nourish his own frail body, or satisfy the -cravings of a famishing wife, and a brood of naked, starving, helpless -children. - -We were a few days in accomplishing the short distance of two hundred -and forty miles, from the cape to Mette, and then shaped our course for -cape Aden in Arabia Felix, which we descried the following morning, -presenting a bold, broken outline. We continued coasting along the -shore till the twenty-ninth, when we spoke an East India company's -cruiser, the Nautilus, the same brig which the Peacock captured at the -termination of the late war with Great Britain. She had under convoy -four brigs from Mocha, bound to Surat. They were very much crowded with -_good_ mussulmans, from Mecca, who had been on a pilgrimage to the holy -city, and were purified of all their sins, past, present, and to come, -by the waters of the miraculous well of Zemzen, &c., and were now sure -of admission into the sensual paradise of the prophet. - -The triple and quadruple mountains of Yemen were distinctly visible, -and the sandy coast was interrupted at intervals by high land, till -we made the broken hill which forms the celebrated cape of Death, or -cape of Tears, Babel Mandeb, better known to the world as Babel Mandel. -The passage between this headland and the island of Perim, and Babel -Mandeb, is less than a mile and a half wide according to the chart of -Sir Home Popham. It is called by modern navigators the lesser Bab, or -Gate. - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL AT MOCHA.] - -Head winds and adverse currents obliged us to enter the Red sea through -the great channel formed between Perim and the group of islands, called -"Souamba," or the Eight Brothers, lying on the Abyssinian shore. We -therefore had on either hand Africa and Asia in full view, both -equally steril and lofty in the interior. Although the distance is but -forty miles to Mocha, from the straits, yet it occupied the remaining -two days of the month to effect it, owing to contrary currents and -winds. We anchored in five fathoms water, at the distance of two miles -from the shore; immediately on anchoring, a lieutenant (Brent) was sent -on shore to the dowlah or governor, to say that a salute of fifteen -guns should be given, if an equal number were returned; this was -promptly complied with. We found Mocha in possession of a Turkish rebel -chieftain, Turkie ben al Mas by name, who it seems has held it for the -last seven months; he was an officer in the service of Mehemet Ali the -celebrated pacha of Egypt, and being discontented with his situation -he thought it best to carve out for himself, with the assistance of -his sword, a little good fortune, in the shape of a governor over a -few cities; he collected together a number of followers, soldiers of -fortune, who are always to be found in Egypt, as well as in Turkey and -elsewhere, ready to draw the sword for those who will pay the best and -make the largest promises. These troops consisted of Turks, Copts or -Egyptians, Bedouin and other Arabs, and Abyssinians. It seems on his -march from Grand Cairo, where the expedition was planned, he conquered -the principal places, lying on the Arabian side of the Red sea; meeting -with some opposition at Judda alias Djidda, the port of disembarkation -for pilgrims going to the holy city of Mecca, it was plundered and -many of the inhabitants were slain. Here he found seven large East -India built ships, armed and equipped, belonging to his late master; -of these, he took forcible possession, putting on board some troops, -and ordering them to Mocha to co-operate with his army which proceeded -by land. He marched on with about three thousand men, capturing on his -way Hodeida, Loheia, &c., till he came to Zebid, better known as Waled -Zebid: here he met with considerable opposition, but finally it was -obliged to submit to the "strong arm." Exasperated at the resistance -made by the dowlah, he ordered him to be put to the most cruel -death--such a one as could only enter into the imagination of a fiend -of darkness. A copper cap was made, heated red hot, then fitted to his -head, and his brains were literally fried out, he dying in the most -excruciating tortures. This place (Mocha) capitulated after some slight -skirmishing, on condition that the dowlah and the garrison should be -suffered to depart unmolested, with their arms, accoutrements and -baggage, to the interior; this was faithfully complied with as it -regarded the troops; they were suffered to depart without molestation -to the mountains of Yemen. The dowlah was promised every indulgence, -and the conqueror apparently took a deep interest in his welfare. He -was asked, with great seeming kindness, if he had a family, wives -and children, in the interior, and if he did not wish to see them -speedily. He answered in the affirmative, and expressed himself in very -forcible and affectionate terms--such as may be supposed to emanate -from a man of ardent temperament, and one whose feelings are centred -in the bosom of his family. He was informed that all his fears should -be speedily hushed, that he should depart for the mountains, and be -allowed a body-guard for his protection. On the second night after -their departure, as they drew near the first rise of mountains, and -within sight of the hills which overlooked the home of his children, -anticipating the delightful pleasure of once more beholding and -embracing them, as he was resting on the ground and partaking an humble -meal, he was most treacherously and cruelly shot, in two places, -through the back, and there left to be a prey for the eagle and jackall -of the mountains; while his poor and fatherless children were daily and -hourly looking from their tent-doors into the valleys, wondering why -he tarried so long, and complaining of his tardiness; but, alas, their -eyes were never destined to behold him more. - -[Sidenote: VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR.] - -By a particular invitation, we visited the conqueror. We landed at a -stone-pier, and shortly passed through one of the city-gates. After -winding through extremely narrow and crooked streets, which were as -hot as the blast from a "baker's oven," we arrived at a building -dignified with the name of "the palace," fronting an open space of -ground on one side, and on another, overlooking the harbour. There -were, lounging about the grand entrance, a goodly number of his -cut-throats, whose trade and pastime are blood, armed to the teeth, -and ready for service. We were conducted through long dark passages, -up a precipitous staircase, wide enough only for one person to advance -at a time. Landing places were frequent, and heavy doors at each, so -as to cut off all communication: wherever a soldier could be placed -on the narrow landings or passages, either above or below, there was -no space left empty. In passing through the entrance, up this narrow -stairway, the scene of so much bloodshed at different times, we were -strongly impressed with the idea, that the lumps of dirt and the spots -on the walls, were the blood and brains of many a victim; and however -erroneous the opinion might be, we imagined every thing about the -palace smelt of blood, as though it were the shambles of wretched human -beings. - -We passed through the anteroom, filled with his body guard, and -found him reclining on a raised settee, covered with Turkey carpets. -Captain G. and myself were requested to take seats on each side of -him--he placing himself in the corner of the settee, probably as a -precautionary means against treachery. He was a stout, noble looking -man, having a bushy black beard and mustaches; his aspect was by no -means ferocious. He was rather plainly dressed, in dark striped silk, -and wore the red cloth cap. - -He treated us with great affability and kindness, expressed himself -highly gratified at the sight of two American men-of-war, (being the -first, as we understood, that had ever entered the port.) He offered -every assistance in his power, and sent to the ship a present of some -bullocks, sheep, and vegetables. Our conversation related principally -to the difference in charges paid on English and American vessels. It -seems the English vessels pay a duty of two and a quarter per cent., -without any other charges, while the Americans pay three per cent. -Anchorage money, which was one hundred and eighty, has been increased -as high as three hundred and fifty dollars on the largest vessels, -although it has been lessened lately to two hundred and fifty: the -harbour-master, also, is paid twenty-three dollars: there are, besides, -some smaller impositions. He promised to do all that lay in his power, -to equalize the charges on English and American vessels; but said -that the government was in a very unsettled state at present; that he -had sent despatches to the sultan of Stamboul, alias, Constantinople, -announcing the conquest of this and other places in his name, and that -he was now awaiting his orders, &c. - -The wide anteroom-doors being open, the guard was within a few feet of -us, and heard all our conversation. They were principally Turks: some -wore the turban, and others the red military cap. They were heavily -armed about the waist, with two pair of horse-pistols, a cimeter, and -perhaps with one or two daggers; the handles of all being fancifully -inlaid with silver. Their complexions were generally of a light olive, -with black eyes and long beards. Some were quite white, having small -very light blue eyes. They were fine looking men, possessing stout -muscular frames. The sleeves of many were tucked up to the shoulder, -showing a very brawny arm. They stood in a respectful attitude, but -not cringing, like a Siamese or Cochin-Chinese, in the presence of a -superior. They were indolent in their appearance, yet the ferocity -of the tiger lurked in their countenances. A sign or a nod; a word, -or even a wink, was sufficient for these blood-hounds to lay us dead -at their master's feet. But such fears were far from us, or that the -delicious coffee of Yemen, which we were sipping, was imbued with -poison. - -Part of his fine stud of Arabian horses were handsomely caparisoned -and brought to the door, for us to ride through the town and into the -suburbs, to see the extensive villages of the Arabs, Sommanlis, or -Abyssinians. The village, occupied formerly by the Jews, was deserted; -what had become of them, we could not learn. Two slaves were placed at -the stirrup of each horse to accompany the party: for the most part of -the way they kept pace with the riders. These villages are situated, -generally, in the midst of extensive date-groves. The houses of the -Sommanlis have neat conical roofs, made of date-leaves, or coarse -rushes, and the sides are of the same material, or of mats. They have -woolly hair mostly, extremely black skins, but prominent noses, limbs -well formed, fine teeth, and rather pleasant countenances: they are as -straight built as the young areca. - -There is a strange fashion prevailing among the fops of this village; -that of changing the colour of their wool to a light brown or yellow; -but as the colouring of gray hair, among a more civilized people, is by -no means uncommon, they are not, therefore, altogether singular. These -fops had no other covering to boast of than a waist-cloth. - -[Sidenote: MOCHA--BEGGARS.] - -The lofty mountains of Yemen afford great relief to the inland -prospect; but in the immediate vicinity of Mocha, there is only an -extensive date-grove; elsewhere every thing is desolate and steril: -the eye wanders in vain for an oasis, for some green spot, and sees -only tufts of coarse brown grass, and a plain of sand. The town has a -very neat and substantial appearance from the roadstead, presenting to -the view a compact mass of white buildings, mosques, minarets, and -castles, breaking only the uniformity of the scene. They are lofty, so -as to catch every breeze which passes over the walls--are flat-roofed, -and the inhabitants sleep on them in consequence of the excessive -heat. They are protected, in part, against the baneful effects arising -from heavy dews, and from the power of the moon, by a light leaf roof; -are clumsily built, mostly of brick baked in the sun; and there is no -appearance that a level was ever used. The floors are undulating, like -the waves of the sea. Crooked, dark, and narrow passages, and steep -staircases, with strong doors at every landing, ready to be barricaded -in case of an insurrection, or an enemy making his appearance, are -common in every house: in fact, every dwelling is a strong castle. On -entering within the city walls, all idea of comfort instantly vanishes; -dirty, intricate streets are every where lumbered with the rubbish -from ruined buildings; turbaned heads, the red military cap, and loose -floating garments, are seen at every step, all being heavily armed -about the waist, "ready to do battle;" women, with closely veiled -faces; porters, sweating most profusely, under heavy loads of luscious -dates, oozing through the meshes of the slight mat covering; strings -of camels, laden with coffee, &c., from Yemen, lying in the streets, -munching their allotted portion of hard brown beans, or bearing about -skins of water for sale; asses, without number, laden variously; -small droves of miserable cattle, or rather frames set up ready for -filling out, if sufficient encouragement should be given to effect -it. Abyssinian sheep, covered with hair instead of wool, having broad -tails, hanging nearly to the ground: they are mostly black-headed, -affording delicious mutton: goats, every where, grown fat even upon the -coarsest rushes, and the twigs and leaves of the common thorn. But the -most distressing sight is that of the poor, blind, diseased, and lame -beggars, which meet you every where, in the streets and in the bazars, -at the mosque-doors and at the doors of the palace, in the suburbs -and at the gates of the city, begging most earnestly for the smallest -pittance, for even one or two commassees, (a small copper coin, being -three hundred and eighty to the dollar,) or a few cowries. Some of them -were mere walking skeletons; their frames being covered with shrivelled -brown parchment, stretched over what resembled bunches of dried catgut, -being the muscular parts of the body. They had deep sunken cheeks, -hollow to the bones, and sharp noses; the nostrils being so nipped -in as to present only the mark of an orifice, like an old closed and -deep-cut wound, badly united: not a particle of flesh was on their -legs, arms, or their collapsed bodies. Some could walk, but how it was -effected, in their extremely emaciated condition, was a mystery of -wonder; the slightest breath of wind would almost overpower them; and I -was, several times, upon the eve of holding out my hands to save these -shadows from being dashed to the ground. Death stared them in the face, -and only suffered them to remain in misery a few moments longer, that -they might complete, perhaps, their allotted task of penance, for the -vile deeds done in the body. - -We passed through extensive covered bazars, which appeared to be well -supplied with goods. The size of some of the shops, or rather closets, -was extremely small, the vender sitting with his legs under him, having -every thing within reach of his hands. There was but little fruit and -vegetables for sale, but fish and fowls, goats, sheep, and bullocks, -in abundance; plenty of dates; some highly-flavoured, but extremely -small oblong grapes; raisins, without seed; and ordinary pomegranates. -Occasionally, there may be had water-melons, sweet potatoes, onions, a -superior kind of sorrel, and some long gourds. - -About the coffee-houses, (or rather sheds,) were seen, in groups, -soldiers, smoking their chebouks, and sipping their small cups -(resembling egg-cups) of coffee, made from the husk of the berry, -without the addition of sugar or milk. They were generally reclining on -rough-made settees, covered with the strong leaf of the date-palm. They -were of all shades, from the deep black to the brown Bedouin, and to -the unadulterated white from Georgia and the Caucasian mountains. They -were, with scarcely an exception, men of noble features: their dresses -were as various as the nations they came from. They pay only three or -four commassees for their refreshments. This small coin, and cowries, -are the only currency used in the bazars for small transactions; but -Spanish dollars and German crowns are almost wholly used in larger -ones; and Persian rupees, and those of Bombay and Surat, and foreign -gold, are no strangers. During the time I was examining this motley -group of strange beings, the hour of evening prayer drew nigh. As the -sun disappeared behind the mountains of Abyssinia, a loud cry was -heard--"Hark!" cried many voices:-- - - "Hark, from the mosque, the nightly solemn sound, - The Muezzin's call doth shake the minaret; - 'There is no God but God: to prayer--lo! God is great.'" - -Each one then spread his garment, or a mat, upon the ground, and -instantly the assembled multitude of Mussulmans were on their knees, -facing to the north towards Mecca, and praying to Allah with low -prostrations, and every outward demonstration of intense devotion. It -was a pleasing sight even to a "Giaour," to one who never doubted the -founder of their religion was not the "true prophet;" but still, it -must be acknowledged, he was of infinite service in turning millions -from gross idolatry, to the worship of "one true and ever-living God." - -[Sidenote: EXPORTS FROM MOCHA.] - -The export of coffee from this place, annually, is about eight thousand -bales, of three hundred and five pounds each; and the price, at -present, is said to be from twenty-nine to thirty-two dollars per bale; -but we paid at the rate of thirty-six dollars for some bales of the -very first quality. A small part of this goes to the Persian gulf, to -Surat, and Bombay, probably making, altogether, one half; the remainder -is taken by the Americans. From the other ports in the Red sea, as high -up as Djedda, (Judda,) it is carried to El Coseir, or Kooseir, Suez, -&c.; and so on to Egypt, Turkey, &c. Gum Arabic, myrrh, frankincense, -dates, and a few smaller articles, may be added to the list of exports. -The difficulty of egress, during the northeast monsoon, the wind and -current adverse and very strong, which commences about the latter -part of September, is a great obstacle in trading to this port. If it -was possible to direct the trade to Aden, situated a hundred miles to -the eastward of cape Babel Mandeb, which is furnished with two good -harbours, this very serious obstacle would be obviated. In no part of -the world have I seen fish in greater abundance; they go in immense -shoals, and appear, to an inexperienced eye, like low breakers over -spits of sand, or a barred harbour. Birds are, in great numbers, -hovering over them, waiting with impatience for their portion of food. -Rock-weed is seen floating down the Red sea in great quantities. The -only boat used for fishing, is the catamaran, similar to those already -described. The stationary number of inhabitants in the city, is said -not to exceed five thousand; but, at present, there are probably about -ten thousand, in addition, including the soldiers, women and children, -and other followers of the army. In the environs of the city, are seen -thousands of miserable beings, lying on mats or on the sand, having a -slight tent made of the date-leaf, a mat or two, or some rags tacked -together, possessing little or no covering for the body, and apparently -scarcely any thing on which to feed it, to prevent the immortal part -from deserting the mortal. - -I observed, in several houses, the "transparent stone," which is placed -over the tops of the latticed windows; there was as much light shed -through it as through ground glass. - -The colour of the Red sea has long given occasion to a variety of -conjectures and speculations. Doctor Ehrenberg discovered that it was -owing to small animalcules, which he names, "oscillatoria," which hold -a rank midway between plants and animals. This colour may hold good, as -it regards the more northern part of the sea, but at Mocha it is of a -light sea-green. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIII. - - DEPARTURE FROM THE RED SEA--CAPE ROSSELGATE--ARRIVAL AT - MUSCAT--BLIND BEGGARS--FIN BACK WHALES--BEDOUIN ARABS--PEARL - ISLANDERS--ARAB ROBBERS--CURRENCY OF MUSCAT--NAVAL FORCE OF MUSCAT. - - -We remained in Mocha roads only two days, and then sailed, on the -evening of the first of September, for Muscat. Owing to light winds, we -did not pass the "Lesser Bab," or the narrow straits of Babel Mandel, -till three o'clock in the morning of the third, having drifted through -them by the help of the current, in a night resplendently beautiful, -and "in silence" passed we "through the Gate of Tears." - -[Sidenote: MUSCAT.] - -[Sidenote: SLAVE-BAZARS--BARBERS.] - -Nothing remarkable occurred on our passage through the gulf and sea -of Arabia, till the thirteenth, when we made Ras el Had, or cape -Rosselgate, being the extreme northeastern limit of Arabia, having -had the winds, during the passage, very light, from the southward and -westward. Ras el Had is a low sandy point. A range of high mountains -form the background of the landscape, which have an altitude of -nearly seven thousand feet; this is a link in a chain of mountains, -which extend as far as the Devil's Gap and Kuriat, and are known by -the name of Jeebel Huthera, or the Green mountains. Off the cape, -were a great number of small boats fishing, principally with spears -and grains; the harpooner standing in the bow, who, immediately on -striking a fish, sprung into the water, more effectually to secure -his prey. Sharks appeared to be their object, which are dried and -shipped to various places; and the fins reserved solely for the China -market. The surface of the water was red with myriads of crabs, which -were sent forth by the _Great Provider_ of all things, to sustain the -larger fish. The day previous to our arrival, as we lay at anchor, a -few miles from Muscat, a boat was despatched, under the command of -Acting-Lieutenant Brent, to the sultan, to inform him of our arrival, -and the object of the visit. The boat returned laden with abundance of -exquisite _grapes_, of four different kinds, and ripe _dates_, just -plucked from the trees, and strung together like large golden beads, -refreshing to the taste, and by no means too luscious or cloying to -the appetite. There were other fruits also sent, such as the season -afforded, with a number of goats and sheep, being presents from the -sultan; bringing also complimentary messages, and congratulating us -on our safe arrival, and expressing himself highly flattered, that, -at length, United States' ships-of-war should, for the first time, -visit his ports, and more especially for the object of the mission. -On the evening of the eighteenth, we anchored in Muscat cove, in -company with the Boxer. The winds from the cape, were very light, from -between southwest and southeast; and the current constantly against -us, setting out of the Persian gulf. The coast appeared to be nearly -as steril as that of Abyssinia or Somauli, being mountainous, barren, -rocky, and sandy; but villages were much oftener to be seen, and -frequently of a large size, in the midst of groves of the date-palm. -Boats also were in great numbers, and well built, instead of the frail -catamaran; they were provided with cotton sails, and the owners were, -apparently, better fed than those about the Red sea, and wore most -venerable long beards, quite outstripping any of the goat family. -The waters were teeming with food--fish were in greater abundance, -if it be possible, than about Mocha. In the morning, an interchange -of salutes took place. The harbour, or rather cove of Muscat, is -extremely limited in its dimensions; it does not exceed three fourths -of a mile in depth, from its entrance at the small islet, called the -Fishers' Rock, lying off the northern part of the Muscat island, and -its width, between the fort on the island, and another fort on the -main, on the western shore, is scarcely one half its depth. It is open -to the north, and during the prevalence of northerly and westerly -gales, in the winter, a heavy sea is thrown in. The cove is bounded -by very precipitous black rocks, running up to the height of three or -four hundred feet, being much jagged or serrated; and on the higher -parts are perched small circular towers, which are said to have been -placed there by the Portuguese, in the "olden-time," when they held -possession of the place. They are, apparently, inaccessible to every -thing, but hawks, gulls, and sea-swallows, which abound in its caverns -and fissures. No place (excepting always a plain of sand) presents a -more forbidding aspect than this; not a green thing is to be seen, -whether tree, shrub, or plant, from the roadstead. The town and its -two castles, which crown the tops of very high rocks, to the east and -to the north, and which are evidently intended as much to overawe and -defend the town, as the harbour, together with the two forts and its -towers, are the only objects (if I may except a few white stone houses) -which at all relieve the dreary prospect. Unless the wind blows from -the northward, or a strong breeze from the southward and eastward, -through the narrow gap, which separates Muscat island from the main -land, the heat is excessive, for there is not the slightest degree of -elasticity in the air; and the heated rocks are never cooled during -three fourths of the year, and the sun seems to dart forth its rays -with great malignity. During our stay, the night wind occasionally blew -from the land, and then the heat was almost insupportable; every one -complained of its suffocating effects, the perspiration poured from -the body like rain, and the strength was at once prostrate. The town -lies at the bottom of the cove, at the only level spot to be seen, -between very high ridges of rocks in the southwestern quarter. It is -walled, excepting the part fronting the harbour, having round towers -at the principal angles. With the exception of the sultan's palace, -whose walls are bathed on the harbour side by "Oman's green waters," -and on another side by the bazar, a narrow, dark covered street, and a -few other decent looking houses, miserably built of stone, and coated -with chunam, the larger portion are small, dark, and filthy, made of -palm-branches only, or at best covered with mats, or coated with mud, -so that the periodical rains frequently demolish a considerable portion -of the city, and they are then seen floating in fragments through the -streets, which are converted into so many canals, by the torrents of -water which descend from the circumjacent mountains. A mat laid on -the bare earth, is the bed of the occupants, and their hands pillow -their heads; an earthen pot is their only cooking utensil, and dried -camel's dung and palm-branches their fuel. Dates and fish, in scanty -quantities, twice a day, form generally their meals; and when they -are so fortunate as to obtain a few ounces of goat-meat, it is cut -into small pieces, and roasted on wooden skewers. The inhabitants are -indolent, and those who are neither sailors nor soldiers, mechanics -nor merchants, are miserably poor. Beggars are every where, and it is -even a more remarkable place for blind people than Mocha; they are -seen in groups at the corners of the streets, crying out in the most -piteous manner, for the love of Allah, the holy prophet, and all the -santons, to give them something to relieve their wretched condition. -The lanes, or rather slits, between the buildings, are very irregular, -encumbered with filth and rubbish; and the houses are similar in -construction to those of Mocha. The city, within the walls, is reported -to contain about twelve thousand inhabitants, and as every foot of -ground is covered with buildings, (there being neither gardens nor open -squares,) I suppose this number not to be exaggerated, notwithstanding -the circumference of the walls does not exceed a mile. The larger -part of the inhabitants are Arabs; the remainder are from various -parts of Hindostan, Persians, Scindians, Abyssinians, and negro slaves -from the coast of Zanzibar; all reposing in safety under the mild -and equitable government of a very worthy prince. The population of -the suburbs is estimated at five thousand. Here may be seen weavers -manufacturing fine check cloth, with red and yellow silk ends, which -form the turbans, universally worn by all who are born within the -kingdom of Aman, whether the sultan or the subject. The weavers dig a -hole in the ground, for their feet, and form a seat a step higher, to -sit on; they use a very primitive loom, and the web is extended but a -few inches above the ground, a light date-leaf shed serving to protect -them against the rays of the sun. A few blacksmiths, coppersmiths, -ropemakers, carpenters, and sandal-makers, are almost the only trades -that are carried on to any extent. The mechanic arts are conducted -in the streets, under open sheds. The bellows of the smiths are of a -very primitive construction; two skins are so arranged, that while one -is filling with air, they blow with the other; with a hand placed on -each, they are alternately depressed and filled. A hole in the ground -serves for a fireplace, and another for water; a stone serves for an -anvil, and with clumsy hammers, and sitting on their hams, they carry -on, in a very slow manner, their imperfect trade. The slave-bazar -is near the landing-place, and a sale is made every evening towards -sunset; the slaves are well oiled, to show a smooth skin, and they are -decently dressed; the males with a waistcloth, and the females have, -in addition, a breastcloth. The auctioneer parades them through the -streets on the day of sale, and, if a higher price is not offered at -_public_ sale, than was bid privately, they are then delivered to -the highest private bidder. Goods are hawked out about the streets -in the same way; to wit, Cashmere shawls, swords, spears, rhinoceros -shields, &c., &c. The slave-bazar is a great resort for Arab dandies; -decorated with fine sabres and silver-hilted crooked daggers, which -are worn in the shawls which encircle their waists; their long beards -well perfumed, and their turbans arranged according to the prevailing -fashion, they examine females as well as males, with little regard to -delicacy, or even to common decency. In passing through the streets, -we constantly met Arab, Abyssinian, and negro women with masks, having -in them oblong eye-holes; they were made of black cloth or silk, some -being bound with gold lace; their dress a black, blue, or dark robe, -with trousers of the same, or else made of cross-barred silk. Very -few of them turned their faces to the wall when we passed, but they -stopped and took a full view of us. Hindoo barbers carry on their trade -generally in the street. After having shaved the head, a part of the -face, and over the _eyelids_, extracted the hairs from the nose and -ears, trimmed the mustaches, and perfumed the beard with sweet-scented -Arab oil, they conclude by cutting the finger and toe nails; the whole -being done with an air of much gravity and importance. It is said they -have the same characteristic marks here, that they do in many other -parts of the world; being great tattlers, newsmongers, politicians, -and story-tellers. The Arabs stain their feet black or red, nearly to -the ankles; and the hands and nails of the fingers and feet with red -henna, as well as a narrow black stripe along the outer edge of one or -both eyelashes, with antimony, to give a more pleasing expression, and -sparkling effect to the eye. - -Small fish being very abundant about the ship, the fishermen came in -great numbers to throw their nets. They are of a circular form, and -probably fifteen feet in diameter, loaded with small weights at the -extremities, having a line fastened to the centre to draw it up; when -thrown in it sinks gradually, the weights being light; when it has sunk -to the depth of eight or ten feet, two divers jump overboard to drive -the fish within the net; when they wish to draw it up, the weights -close the bottom, and so secure all that are within its meshes. - -Several divers were employed to find a sword which by an accident was -lost overboard in eight fathoms, where the ship was anchored; two of -them went down several times, and the greatest length of time either -remained under water, was _two_ minutes and _five_ seconds. The ship's -bottom being very foul, two large gangs of divers were employed to -cleanse it, which was thoroughly effected with scrapers and rubbers -in the course of four hours, taking off oysters of the size nearly of -the palm of the hand, and barnacles also of a very large size; this -was done at an expense of twenty-five dollars. It had a very ludicrous -effect to see so many venerable long beards, white, grizzled and black, -thus employed, and constantly popping their bare heads and dripping -beards out of the water. - -[Sidenote: MUSCAT TOM--BEDOUIN ARABS.] - -We were many times in the day amused to see two very large fin-back -whales fishing alongside, and under the bows and stern of the ship. -The male has been a daily visiter in this harbour for upward of twenty -years, and goes by the name of "Muscat Tom." Formerly the cove was much -infested with sharks, so that no person would venture into the water; -but after he took possession, it was freed entirely of these pests, -these sea-manduleens, (mandarins,) as the Chinese fishermen call them, -in derision of the all-grasping _land mandarins_. A few years since he -was missing for many days; the sharks ascertained by some means that he -was "not at home" to pay _particular_ attention to his _visiters_ and -invite them _in_; they therefore intruded upon his quarters, and not -only banqueted upon his larder, which was filled with a great variety -of fine fish, but actually invited and _sore pressed_ some of the land -bipeds to _follow_ them; as they are equally as well pleased with flesh -as with fish, the consequence was, the _natives_ refused to join any -other _jamb_ or _crush_ of the usurpers, and took a great dislike to -_aquatic parties_. Happily at length, bold Tom returned, and every -thing was restored to its proper order; for he had been like "Celebs -in search of a wife;" and if he did not bring her home under his arm, -he brought her under his fin, and "she was a helpmeet unto him;" and -together they made a clear _sweep_ of all the pests and incumbrances of -their household, to the great joy of the land-animals, who again paid -them frequent visits. - -They have never been known _wilfully_ to injure them; but occasionally -when they were in full chase after a _school_ of _small fry_ who were -playing truant within their submarine garden, they would unluckily -upset the water carriage of their neighbours; however, as no offence -was intended, an apology was deemed wholly unnecessary, and the natives -acted a very wise part by not showing a useless resentment to their -benefactors. Hourly the happy pair may be seen moving along very -lovingly together "cheek by jowl," occasionally sinking to the bottom, -but not in search, as some may foolishly imagine, for---- - - "Wedges of gold, great anchors, heaps of pearl, - Inestimable stones, unvalued jewels, - All scattered in the bottom of the sea, - Some lying in dead men's sculls; and in those holes - Where eyes did once inhabit, there were crept - As 'twere in scorn of eyes:"-- - -but after something more useful; they are now seen rising with -great swiftness perpendicularly half their length out of water, and -with wide expanded jaws, catching all that comes within the vortex, -filling the enormous sacks under their throats full to overflowing; -and "thereby suck they _in_ no small advantage." Whenever the water -is too shallow to rise in this manner, they dash forward with the -rapidity of lightning, making a great breach; their ponderous body -being thrown frequently entirely out of water. Many fishermen follow -them to catch the fish they kill, but do not swallow; and by these -means obtain during the day a great number. Muscat Tom and his wife -are never known to sleep in the harbour, having sufficient sagacity to -know, that they might be cast on shore by the current, and so caught -_napping_. I observed that the same silly custom prevails here with -the fishermen, as in many parts of the United States and elsewhere, by -spitting on their bait to _insure good luck_. During our stay about two -thousand Bedwin (Bedouin) Arabs arrived by order of the sultan; they -were to be embarked on board the ships-of-war at the commencement of -the northeast monsoon for Mombas, and other parts in Africa; they are a -little darker coloured than the Arabs of Mocha, slender built, of good -open countenances, and with fine sparkling eyes: the hair dressed in -small-sized spiral curls, and profusely oiled, wearing a bandage around -the head to confine it. They had no covering to the head, were naked -excepting the waist, and were generally armed with spears. - -There are a great number of small villages within a small distance -of Muscat, wherever a tolerably level spot can be found between the -precipitous rocks. The principal one of six, lying around the shore -of Muttrah harbour, is the walled town of Muttrah, which is said -to contain about eight thousand inhabitants, including a colony of -Belooches, or Scindians, from the banks of the renowned Indus. They -occupy a walled town within the walls of Muttrah, having sentries -constantly posted at their only gate, which fronts the beach. The -principal business transacted at Muttrah, is building and repairing -of vessels. The poorer inhabitants of all these towns are very filthy -and nearly naked, and not abundantly supplied with food, even of the -meanest kind. They are very civil in their demeanour; but by no means -deficient in curiosity. It is about two miles from Muscat to Muttrah. -The passes between the rocks being very narrow, and exceedingly -difficult, and the heat overpowering, the communication is kept up by -means of canoes, neatly painted, having a temporary date-leaf roof, -and a mat to sit on. Large droves of camels and dromedaries, from the -interior, arrive daily, laden with wheat, dates, grapes, &c. - -All religions, within the sultan's dominions, are not merely tolerated, -but they are protected by his highness; and there is no obstacle -whatever to prevent the Christian, the Jew, or the Gentile, from -preaching their peculiar doctrines, or erecting temples. The principal -part of his subjects are of the sect of the Mahometans, called the -Bee-asis: they profess to abstain from the use of tobacco, spirits, -and all fermented liquors, and from every description of pomp and -magnificence, in their dress, their houses, or their mosques. (The -latter are very ordinary buildings, being destitute of all ornaments, -and without minarets.) They do not grant pre-eminence to the -descendants of Mahomet, but maintain that all who are Mussulmans by -birth, are eligible for any employment in church or state. I was of the -opinion, until I became better acquainted with these people, that they -were more strict than the other sects, both in precept and practice; -but their religious prejudices are broken down, the form only is left; -and away from Muscat, or those who are not in the immediate employ of -the sultan, and are therefore not in daily attendance upon his person, -they use tobacco, as well as all intoxicating liquors, freely. This -is frankly acknowledged by the sultan's own officers. Several small -craft arrived from the Bahrein islands, bringing a deputation from -the principal ruler, requesting assistance and protection against -the Wahabees or Joassames, who had again collected a large army, and -threatened to take possession of their islands. It was said, they were -in arrears for three or four years' tribute-money, which they were -first commanded to pay. A compromise was attempted by the deputies; but -it was not settled when we left there. The vessels wore a striped flag, -either of red and green or red and white. - -[Sidenote: HORSES--FRUITS--VEGETABLES.] - -The sultan possesses a very fine stud of Arab horses. I saw, at -different times, about two hundred. He is the owner, as I was informed -by the colonel, or commander of the Bedwin cavalry, of all the horses -in Muscat, or the neighbouring towns. He was very desirous of sending -to the President of the United States, two stallions and two mares -of the best blood; but it was declined, because the ship was not of -sufficient size to carry them, comfortably and safely, through the -tempestuous weather usually encountered from the entrance of the -Mozambique channel to the cape of Good Hope. The sultan's horses are -fed upon lucerne and dates; and it is said that most of the cattle, -sheep, and goats, are fed upon dates and fish. The coarsest kind of -grass, and rushes even, are difficult to be obtained at any price, and -all the lucerne belongs to the sultan. - -We found the mutton here very excellent, the sheep costing two dollars, -and goats at various prices: fowls from one dollar to two and a half -per dozen: bullocks, very fat and very palatable, at ten dollars -each. But there were no hogs, turkeys, geese, or ducks. Fish was very -abundant and cheap, and generally good flavoured. Both white and purple -grapes were supplied us daily, and in profusion, by the sultan. The -pomegranates were much superior to any I have ever seen. There were -but few mangoes, the season for them having passed. The oranges were -insipid, and tasted like the sweet lemon. Limes were very plentiful. -The muskmelons gave out a fine perfume, but they were very tasteless. -The dates, when not too ripe, had the flavour of a very sweet green -chestnut. Pistachios, almonds, raisins, and kismisses, (or seedless -raisins,) were plenty. Of vegetables, there were the long purple -egg-plant, potatoes, onions, okra, and parsley. The date molasses was -very good; wheat sold for one dollar and a quarter for one hundred -English pounds; and a French brig was lading with it and jacks, for the -Mauritius. The water, which supplies the shipping and the principal -part of the inhabitants, is drawn from a very deep well outside the -walls of Muscat, by a buffalo, up an inclined plane, and then brought -in skins, on men's backs, to the landing. - -The sole object of our visit to Muscat, was to effect a commercial -treaty with his highness, Syed Syeed bin Sultan, and to obtain a -reduction of the duties and port-charges, heretofore paid on our -commerce, so as to place it upon a footing with the most favoured -nations. The sultan appointed an audience in the afternoon of the day -subsequent to our arrival. I landed, in company with Captain Geisinger -and Lieutenant-Commandant Shields, of the Boxer. We found the sultan, -with his eldest son the governor of Burha, and ten gentlemen, composing -his divan or council, sitting in the veranda, facing the harbour. -The governor and the counsellors were sitting on chairs facing each -other, and the sultan was seated about ten or twelve feet from them -in a corner. He immediately arose, on our entrance, and walked to -the edge of the raised floor, between the courtiers, and received -us very graciously, shaking us by the hand. Here was to be seen no -abasing crawling, and couching, and "knocking head," like a parcel of -slaves; but all was manly, and every one stood on his feet. The usual -congratulatory compliments and inquiries were made; and coffee and -sherbet were introduced. I was seated near to, and on the right hand of -his highness; and we entered into a private conversation, through the -interpreter, Captain Calfaun, relative to the object of the mission, -(after having presented my credentials.) The sultan at once acceded to -my wishes, by admitting our commerce into his ports upon the same terms -of his most favoured friends, the British, to wit: by paying a duty of -five per cent. on the cargo _landed_, and free from every other charge -whatever, either on imports or exports, or even the charge of pilotage. -When the fifth article of the proposed treaty was read, which related -to shipwrecked seamen, he at once objected to that part of it relating -to a remuneration for expenses, which would be necessarily incurred -in supporting and forwarding them to the United States, and said, -the article he wished so altered as to make it incumbent upon him to -protect, maintain, and return them to their own country, free of every -charge. He remarked, that it would be contrary to the usage of Arabs, -and to the rights of hospitality, which have ever been practised among -them; and this clause was also inserted, at his request. The sultan -is of a mild and peaceable demeanour, of unquestionable bravery, as -was evinced during the Wahabee war, where he was severely wounded in -endeavouring to save an English artilleryman. He is a strict lover of -justice, possessing a humane disposition, and greatly beloved by his -subjects. He possesses just and liberal views in regard to commerce, -not only throwing no obstacles in the way to impede its advancement, -but encouraging foreigners as well as his own subjects. - -[Sidenote: SULTAN OF MUSCAT.] - -The sultan of Muscat is a very powerful prince; he possesses a more -efficient naval force than all the native princes combined from the -cape of Good Hope to Japan. His resources are more than adequate to his -wants: they are derived from commerce, owning himself a great number -of merchant vessels: from duties on foreign merchandise, and from -tribute-money, and presents received from various princes, all of which -produce a large sum: a small tithe also is taken on wheat and dates, -but more on houses or lands. - -His possessions in Africa, stretch from cape Delgado to cape Guardafui: -and from cape Aden in Arabia, to Ras el Haud, and from Ras el Haud they -extend along the northern coast of Arabia, (or the coast Aman) to the -entrance of the Persian gulf: and he claims also all the seacoast and -islands _within_ the Persian gulf, including the Bahrein islands, and -pearl-fishery contiguous to them, with the northern part of the gulf as -low down as Seindy. It is true that only a small part of this immense -territory is garrisoned by his troops, but all is tributary to him. - -In Africa, he owns the ports of Monghow, or Mongallow, Lyndy, Quiloa, -(Keelwah,) Melinda, Lamo, Patta, Brava, Magadosha, (alias Magadshe,) -and the valuable islands of Monfeea or Mafeea, Zanzibar, Pemba, -Socotra, alias Socotera, &c., &c. - -From Africa are exported, gum-copal, aloes, gum-arabic, columbo-root, -and a great variety of other drugs. Ivory, tortoise-shell, rhinoceros -horns, hides, beeswax, cocoa-nut oil, rice, millett, ghee, &c. - -The exports from Muscat are wheat, dates, horses, raisins, salt, dried -fish, and a great variety of drugs, &c., &c. Muscat, being the key to -the Persian gulf is a place of great resort in the winter months, for -vessels from the Persian gulf and the western parts of India. - -The productions of Africa, of the Red sea, the coast of Arabia, and the -countries bordering on the Persian gulf, may be had there. - -Their vessels trade not only to the countries named, but also to -Guzzerat, Surat, Demaun, Bombay, Bay of Bengal, Ceylon, Sumatra, Java, -the Mauritius, the Comoro islands, to Madagascar, and the Portuguese -possessions in East Africa; bringing Indian, African, and European -articles. - -[Sidenote: NAVAL FORCE OF MUSCAT.] - -The number of vessels employed on these voyages I was unable to -ascertain with any degree of exactness: but no number named was less -than two thousand; of this a very large proportion are small craft, -having but a few ships and brigs. The naval force of the sultan is very -respectable in point of numbers, and they are daily becoming better -_ship_ sailors. - -The officers practise the lunar observations, and possess excellent -chronometers. His force is sufficient to give him entire control over -all the ports in East Africa, the Red sea, the coast of Abyssinia, and -the Persian gulf. He has an abundance of sailors and although he has -but a small number of regular troops, yet he can command any number of -Bedouin (Bedwin) Arabs he may want, by furnishing them with provisions -and clothing. This force consists of between seventy and eighty sail -of vessels, carrying from four to seventy-four guns. I have added a -statement which shows the names of his largest vessels, with the names -of some of the smaller classes: the rate of each: where built, and -where stationed in the month of October last, as given by Capt. Seydlin -Calfaun, the sultan's English interpreter and translator, and a naval -commander. - -Previous to the conclusion of the treaty, American vessels paid -generally _seven and a half_ per cent. upon imports, and seven and a -half per cent. upon exports, with anchorage money and presents. The -governor of the out ports claimed the right of pre-emption in both -cases, and they resorted to the most nefarious practices to accumulate -wealth. - -The commerce of the United States, under the treaty, is entirely freed -from _all_ inconvenient restrictions, and pays but _one_ charge, namely -_five_ per cent. on all _merchandise landed_, and it is freed from the -charge of pilotage, as every port has pilots which are kept in pay by -the sultan. - -The currency of Muscat differs materially from that of the Persian -gulf, or Africa; it is as follows, viz.: twenty gass-rauz-auz or -rauhzee, make one mamoody; one hundred and forty-two pise or pesos, -make one Spanish dollar; but it varies from one hundred and twenty to -one hundred and fifty;[A] three and a quarter Persian rupees make one -Spanish dollar at present; two and a quarter Bombay rupees, (less five -pise,) one Spanish dollar; two and a quarter Surat rupees, (less five -pise,) one Spanish dollar. - -[A] The value of a Spanish dollar in this copper coin is styled a -"black mamoody." The abovenamed copper coin is the quarter _Ana_ of -the British East India Company; eleven and a half "white mamoodies" -constitute one Spanish dollar, (this is invariable.) It is a nominal -money or money of account. - -The Spanish doublon is worth from fourteen to sixteen dollars according -to weight, but more than fifteen dollars is readily obtained. - -The weights of Muscat are as follows, viz.: twenty-four rials make one -maund; the custom-house maund is eight and three fourths pounds; the -bazar-maund is eight, eight and a fourth, and eight and a half pounds. - - _The following exhibits a Statement of the Naval Force of the - Sultan of Muscat, showing the names of his largest vessels, with - some of the smaller classes--the rates of each; where built, and - where stationed in the month of October, 1833._ - - NAMES. RATES. WHERE BUILT. WHERE STATIONED. - - Liverpool, 74, Bombay, Zanzibar. - Shah Alum, 56, Bombay, Zanzibar. - Caroline, 40, Ramgoon, Muscat. - Prince of Wales, 36, Demaun, Muscat. - Hemingshaw, 36, Cochin, Calcutta. - Piedmontese, 32, Muscat, Muscat. - Mossafa, 24, Cochin, Muscat. - Rahmani, 22, Bombay, Muscat. - Fulke, 18, Demaun, Bombay. - Soliman Shah, 18, Muscat, Muscat. - Curlew, (brig,) 12, Bombay, Muscat. - Psyche, (brig,) 12, Cochin, Muscat. - Tage, (yacht,) 6, Malabar coast, Zanzibar. - Vestal, 6, Muscat, Muscat. - Elphinstone, 6, Bombay, Bombay. - - Also fifty baghelas carrying from eight to eighteen guns, and ten - balits carrying from four to six guns. The baghela is a one-masted - vessel, from two hundred to three hundred tons. The balit is also a - one-masted vessel, from one to two hundred tons. Part of his naval - force was employed in convoying vessels up the Persian gulf, some - in Africa, &c., &c. - - - - -CHAPTER XXIV. - - DEPARTURE FROM MUSCAT--ARRIVAL AT QUINTANGONY AND - MOZAMBIQUE--EXPORTS FROM MOZAMBIQUE--IMPORTS--DEPARTURE FROM - MOZAMBIQUE--ARRIVAL AT TABLE BAY--CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. - - -Our voyage from Muscat to Mozambique was not marked by any particular -occurrence, excepting the death of a very young and valuable officer. -The southwest monsoon having ended, we were in daily expectation -of the advent of the northeast monsoon; but on the morning of the -seventh of October, without waiting for a change of wind, as we were -ready for sea, we weighed anchor again, in company with our consort, -depending mostly upon the assistance of the current; for there was -scarcely "a breath, the blue wave to curl." As soon as the anchor was -"apeek," and the topsails sheeted home and hoisted up, eighteen guns -were fired, as a parting salute to the hospitable sultan, (sooltaun,) -which was returned with twenty-one. Not wishing to be behind-hand in -an act of courtesy, three more were fired. The effect produced by the -echo, among the serrated and cavernous rocks and mountains about the -cove of Muscat, and the neighbouring hills, was surpassingly fine; -loud, distinct, and repeated charges were heard, apparently, for the -space of several minutes, until the reverberations died away, in -faint echoes, among the distant hills in the southeast, west, and -northwestern quarters. The winds were very light, from the southward -and eastward, the first part of the passage, until we arrived in about -5 deg. south, when it changed gradually to the northward and eastward, -and continued so until we arrived at Mozambique. We had abundance of -rain about the equator, accompanied by light squalls and calms; the -currents setting generally to the southward and westward; they also -set to the southward and eastward, and to the northward and eastward, -due west, and to the northwest. A short distance to the northward -and eastward of the island of Socotra, (Socotera,) it set in for -three successive days, about 70 deg. west, eighty-six miles, and for the -seven successive days to the southward and westward, two hundred and -sixty-five miles. The particulars of each day, I omit, as it can only -interest the navigator; but what I have stated, will serve to show -the absolute necessity of having firstrate chronometers, or the lunar -observations carefully attended to; and never omitted to be taken -when practicable. On our passage through the channel, we entered the -small port Quintangony, seeing the Portuguese flag flying on a fort, -mistaking it for Mozambique, as the bearings answered to its situation, -and the table-land being north of it. We weighed anchor forthwith, and -in two hours afterward, on the afternoon of the seventh of November, we -discovered the island of St. George, which has a flag-staff and a small -battery, and to the southward of it, the island of St. Jago; and at -the same time the island of Mozambique, lying to the westward, distant -about three miles, with its formidable castle and its neat white -houses, appeared in view. - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL AT MOZAMBIQUE.] - -Before the sun had sunk behind the forest of palm-trees, which clothe -the mainland of Africa, we found ourselves snugly at anchor, in a fine -harbour, surrounded by twenty or thirty coasting craft, and several -large Brazilian and Lisbon vessels. The town presented the most -respectable and pleasing appearance; our cares were lulled to rest, -for the present, being most grateful to the Giver of all good, for -having conducted us thus far in safety, though sickness and sorrow, -anxiety and death, had caused sad havoc among us--making the ocean -the grave and the winding-sheet of many a brave and worthy heart, -although clothed with a rough exterior--leaving a sad chasm among -companions and friends, among parents and wives, and poor fatherless -children. The last death which took place among us, was that of a -most worthy and excellent young man, Midshipman Lewis H. Roumfert -of Mount Holly, Pennsylvania. Had he lived, he would have been an -ornament to his profession, and a most useful member of society; but -God willed it otherwise, and, therefore, we ought not to complain. A -short distance to the eastward of the island of Socotra, in the Indian -ocean, he was laid in his watery grave. The solemn and sublime service -of the Protestant Episcopal church was read by our worthy surgeon, -Dr. Ticknor; the main-topsail being aback, and the colours hoisted -half-mast. The topsails being filled again, we left him, poor fellow, -sinking down into an earthless grave: - - "Down, down through waters fathomless," - -_there_ to remain, until the last trump shall sound, and the sea shall -disgorge its mighty dead. - -We had scarcely dropped anchor, before an official visit was made by a -lieutenant. A salute was fired in the morning, which was returned by -an equal number of guns from the castle. The commandant of the castle, -Juan Alexander de Almedia, and the acting-governor, was desirous of -receiving us at the fort with military honours, and a message was sent -to that effect, but which was declined; and at noon we landed, and were -received by the commandant at the grand entrance, with a double file -of soldiers with "present arms." This noble fort was built by Juan de -Castro, in 1518, and it is certainly, for the most part, in a fine -state of preservation. It is called Santo Sebastiano, and it appears -capable of resisting any force which probably will ever be sent against -it, notwithstanding the honeycombed state of many of the iron cannon, -and the very weak state of the garrison. It is of a quadrangular form, -having an extensive bomb-proof citadel, capable of protecting all the -inhabitants of the town, in case of a siege, with sufficient magazines -for munitions of war and provisions. - -An immense cistern stands in the middle of the parade, which is filled -by the annual rains. The inhabitants are supplied from this cistern, -whenever the rainy season fails, as well as the shipping; the latter -being obliged to pay one dollar per cask. Ships-of-war, of all nations, -are furnished from it gratis. Our little squadron was supplied from it -by means of pipes, made of condemned iron guns, which lead outside the -gate. The fort and two water-batteries adjoining it, on the extreme -point, mount one hundred and thirty guns, of all calibers, of brass and -iron, in all stages of decay, and apparently of all ages, excepting the -modern. Some of the large brass ones are highly ornamented, and of a -handsome mould. Two of the heaviest enfilade the entrance, and throw -each a hundred and five pounds of stone shot, which I should only have -expected to meet with at the Dardanelles. The oldest chapel on the -island, fronts the grand parade. It is now in a state of dilapidation, -being rent through the centre of the stone roof by an earthquake. A -small new chapel has been built outside the walls, within a water -battery, on the northern side. - -In consequence of the death of the governor, the government is now -administered by a junta, consisting of the civil, ecclesiastical, and -military orders. - -Joaquim Xavier Dinir Costa is the acting-governor, although second in -the council. Trei Antonio da Maia, bishop, being the first member, and -Colonel Francisco Heririquer Ferrao, being the third. We visited the -acting-governor, who offered every assistance in his power, and sent -us very generously, out of a scanty supply, as well as the commandant, -fruit, vegetables, &c. - -A council, consisting of such heterogenous materials, never did and -never will amalgamate well together. It is like an attempt to combine -vinegar with oil, which has never yet been effected, and so it was with -these gentlemen; no two could ever agree upon any essential point, -excepting always, to find "ways and means" to obtain their salaries. I -omitted to state, that, in examining the magazines within the castle, -they showed us a great number of flying-artillery, &c. Our curiosity -was highly gratified by the sight of some ancient armour, consisting -of helmets, cuirasses, and lances, which were deposited there in -bygone days, soon after the fort was built, being brought by Juan de -Castro from Portugal. There are two fortifications built at the other -extremity of the island, to protect the southern and western passages. -The officers in these forts are Canaveens, or natives of Goa and of -East Africa, born of Portuguese parents, who, in the lapse of several -generations, have become black, although they have no wool or negro -features. A more deadly affront could not be offered them than to say -they are not _white_. In the castle, they are from Portugal and Brazil. -The island has a coral foundation, and is covered with white sand. -It is about a mile and a half in length, and averages less than half -a mile in width; it is almost wholly unproductive of vegetation: the -inhabitants depending on Cabaceira and Mesuril, on the main, for their -daily supplies of fruits, and vegetables, and meat. - -[Sidenote: PRODUCTS.] - -The harbour abounds with fish; but they are nearly destitute of boats, -(although not from the want of wood or workmen.) Not a single fish was -offered us for sale, although the inhabitants have become wretchedly -poor, and are overburdened with slaves whose present low rate, from -three to eight dollars, and often at half the price I name, holds out -a temptation to purchase; although they have but a scanty meal for -themselves, and yet, a quarter of a mile from their doors, the waters -swarm with food. Such is the curse of the indolent habits produced by -slavery. But as a happier day is dawning on them slowly, agriculture is -taking place of this vile traffic. It is now said, that coffee, cotton, -sugar, &c., may be cultivated from Da Lagoa bay to cape Delgado, with -the utmost facility; and that tens of thousands of cattle, and sheep, -and goats, may be raised, where the forest occupies the ground, and -the wild beasts roam at large. Instead of being dependant upon foreign -supplies for almost their daily food, they may become exporters to an -enormous amount, in the various products of the forest, the field, -the ocean; in timber, in ivory, in cotton and coffee, sugar, drugs, -salt, rice. Cocoa-nut oil might be made in any quantity along their -coast, yet not a gallon is exported. Already the beneficial efforts -made, begin to develop themselves, in the increased quantity of various -articles from the interior, more particularly in elephant's tusks, -which have amounted this year to upward of ten thousand Portuguese -arrobas, equal to four hundred and thirty thousand pounds; besides the -ivory from hippopotami, which is in great abundance. A large proportion -of the ivory from elephants, comes from the country of the Majonas, -at a distance of about fifty days journey inland. Since slavery has -been abolished, the natives come to the seacoast with little fear of -being kidnapped. Their confidence is daily gaining ground; and a brisk -and praiseworthy trade will take the place of villany and barbarity. -I observed previously that they were almost dependant upon foreign -supplies for the necessaries of life. It is a fact, that a fortnight -previous to our arrival, not a pound of flour, wheaten bread, coffee, -sugar, salted beef or pork, or a bottle of wine or foreign spirits, -could be purchased in the place; but the very fortunate arrival of -several Brazilian and Lisbon vessels, laden with every variety of -articles (put up in small packages,) relieved them from great distress. - -The landing place is in front of the palace square, having the -government-house and a church adjoining, on one side, and the -custom-house on the other. This last is a building, which reflects -great credit upon the place, being neat, commodious, and substantial. -The pier is built on arches of faced stone, and extends to low-water -mark, and is, at all times, an excellent landing. The streets are -narrow, but the principal ones are chunamed on the sides, and some -entirely, where the banyans (the principal traders) inhabit. Many of -the houses are lofty and flat-roofed; but the larger portion of them -are only one story. They show that the inhabitants were once opulent, -but are now fast sinking into poverty and distress. The moral and -religious character of the people is at the lowest ebb possible. It -wants the besom of destruction to pass over the land, to clean out -this Augean stable from the filth and pollution which characterize -this modern Sodom, giving the innocent a warning, which shall be heard -in a voice of thunder. And such is the character of the people, in -the present day generally, from Portugal and Macao. The colony in -East Africa has been entirely neglected by the parent-country for the -last three years, owing to its distressed situation, being wholly -unproductive to the crown of Portugal. Hundreds of unhappy exiles are -dragging out a miserable existence in this most destructive climate, -banished for supposed political offences, without means to live, -excepting by a precarious and scanty subsistence, picked up from day -to day; separated from their distressed families, denied the solitary -comfort of writing, to inform them they are still dragging out a -lengthening chain, or receiving a line from them, if, by chance, they -ascertain where they are to be found; and as if the diabolical malice -of the government knew no bounds, they are banished from the seacoast -to the interior, to prevent their escape, or engaging in insurrections. -I was informed that there are innumerable instances of persons being -taken from their beds at midnight, in Lisbon and elsewhere, hurried -on shipboard, and sent to the Portuguese possessions in East and West -Africa, without a form of trial, or knowing any cause for this outrage -on justice and humanity. Many hundreds have died on the passage from -sickness, brought on by distress of mind; others have been obliged to -beg their daily bread, and finally died of starvation; while hundreds -of others have fallen victims to a destructive climate. - -[Sidenote: HISTORY OF MOZAMBIQUE.] - -A gentleman, now residing at Mozambique, told me, that he and his -brother were taken from their beds at midnight, without being suffered -to hold any communication with their families, with nothing but their -clothes on their backs, and hurried on board two different vessels, -one to West Africa, to Benguela, and the other to East Africa, to -Mozambique; and to make it the more heart-rending, all near relations -were separated in this manner. We heard similar distressing accounts, -when at the Cape de Verd islands and at Macao. The bitter curses -which have ascended to Heaven, against the Braganza family, for the -last three hundred years, from the exiles of Portugal, to South -America, Africa, and India, from aged parents, heart-broken wives, and -fatherless children, will shortly sweep from the earth this destructive -scourge, and leave on record but a small part of the vile doings of -the most heartless, worthless, lascivious, and diabolical monarch, -which ever disgraced the face of the earth. When this place was first -visited by Vasco de Gama, in the latter part of the fourteenth century, -the crescent was flying instead of the cross, and he was welcomed by -the Arabs with music and dancing. But the attempt to plant, rather too -abruptly, the standard of our holy religion, was received with disgust; -and the followers of the prophet flew to arms, but were discomfited -by their more warlike foes. In fact, they at length submitted to the -conquerors, who then made great exactions of provisions and of every -thing else, of which they stood in need. It is stated, that at that -time, every part of the country, capable of cultivation, was well -attended to; that their flocks and herds were peacefully grazing upon -the plains; that the slave-trade had barely a name; and that the people -were trading to various parts of the coast, to Zofar, or Zofal, the -Sofala of modern days--supposed by some to be the land of gold--the -Ophir of King Solomon, to the Red and to the Erythrean sea, or Persian -gulf. - -From the time the Portuguese took possession of it, till the -suppression of the slave-trade, a short time since, peace was banished -from the land. The Mocouas, their immediate neighbours, were seized -and sold, like beasts of the forest; the lands were made desolate, the -palm, the mango, the casheu, (alia acajou,) soon covered the fields; -and the wild elephants, the hippopotami, the rhinoceros, and the tiger, -were to be seen roaming at large, as they are at this day, where peace, -and happiness, and contentment had taken up their abode. The cross, the -emblem of our holy religion, instead of proving a blessing, carrying -with it, as it does, when duly propagated, a balmy influence, and -bearing healing on its wings, has proved calamitous in its tendency. -It has blasted the hopes of millions, confirmed the superstition of -idolaters, and fixed more deeply the rooted prejudices of the Moslem. -Thus the cross has, unfortunately, proved in the Brazil, in East and -West Africa, in Arabia, in the East Indies, in China, and Japan; so -that the name of Christian has become a by-word and a curse, whereever -its doctrines have been propagated by the Portuguese or Spaniards. -Every engine, which brutal force could apply, has been used without the -slightest compunction. Humanity appears to have had no place in their -adamantine breasts, and the mild and peaceful doctrines, expressly -laid down by our Saviour, have never been inculcated; but fire and -the sword, assisted by a detestable and horrible inquisition, have -been preferred in _their_ place, and oppression, fraud, and cruelty -have been resorted to in every shape, to answer the most nefarious -purposes of the government and its religion, and the sordid views of -unprincipled individuals. What might not have been the state of things, -if the liberal views of the founder of the Roman Catholic religion, -in Maryland, had been propagated, and they had been blessed with a -government founded on just and equitable principles! Look at Maryland, -and the Roman Catholic religion, as it exists in our own blessed -country, and behold the contrast!!! Look at our political institutions, -and the happy and prosperous situation of a settlement, begun upward -of one hundred years after the Portuguese took possession of their -present miserable colonies, by a noble, but persecuted band of English -settlers--and see the present situation of Portugal and its conquests. -With the exception of Brazil, which has just slipped her leading -strings, what can be more wretched? To prove the unappeasable hostility -of the nations, in East Africa, towards their oppressors, and every -one who wears straight _hair_, it is a fact well known by all who are -well acquainted with the state of things here, and substantiated by the -Portuguese themselves, that they dare not go half a dozen miles into -the country, without an armed guard. And this is the state of things, -from Da Lagoa bay (alias Lorenzo Marques) to cape Delgado, after having -had possession of the coast upward of three hundred years; and so it -is at Bissao, Saint Paul de Loando, Benguela, &c., in West Africa. The -Portuguese, under a liberal form of government, unshackled by a state -religion, known to be corrupt beyond measure, would prove themselves -to be, as they once were, a noble people, zealous in all good works. - -As it regards the first circumnavigator of the cape of Good Hope and -the discoverer of South and East Africa, the world seems willing to -award the whole merit of the discovery to Vasco de Gama, and he is held -forth in bold relief, at the expense of others, who are entitled at -least to a small share of it. In looking into ancient history, there is -much light shed upon it. According to Herodotus, it seems that one of -the most illustrious of native Egyptian kings, "actuated by the spirit -of a great man, which raised him superior to the age in which he lived, -eagerly sought the solution of the grand mystery, that involved the -_form_ and termination of Africa." In furtherance of this noble project -and to ensure it success if practicable, he employed the boldest of -navigators in those days, to wit, certain Phenicians. Having obtained -vessels which were thought suitable for the enterprise, they proceeded -down the Red sea and boldly launched out into the Indian ocean, and -after a voyage of three years, they made the complete circuit of -the continent, passing through the Pillars of Hercules (straits of -Gibraltar) and up the Mediteranean to Egypt. - -They stated that in passing the most southern coast of Africa, they -were surprised by observing the sun on their _right hand_, or to the -north of them, a statement which the historian rejected as impossible. -This very circumstance, which threw an air of discredit over the -whole transaction, was the strongest proof that could be adduced in -confirmation of what is known to every one in the present day, that to -the south of the equator this must necessarily have taken place.--Some -writers have deemed it impossible for other reasons, because of the -smallness and weakness of their vessels--but as we see thousands -of small craft, in the China, Java, Red and Arabian seas, and from -cape Guardafui to Da Lagoa bay, of not more than fifteen to twenty -tons burden and some even less, open amidships, or having merely a -palmleaf-covering, _sowed_ together with coir spun-yarn the seams -being calked with the same stuff and chunamed outside, the _rudders_ -being _tied_ on, where we use braces and pintles, which are always -unshipped in port, and secured again by the crew who are expert -divers--without even pumps, the water being bailed up amidships and -poured into a spout which leads from side to side--the wonder rather -ceases, and it is certainly a strong and convincing proof that the -_craft_ of the Phenician navigators was no obstacle to the enterprise. -Added to this, all small vessels as well as more large ones in the -seas I have named, always keep in _shore_ and never quit it unless -from necessity--and furthermore, by far the greater part do not use -compasses. And if further confirmation is wanted, look at the numerous -enterprises projected by the Malegashes (people of Madagascar) a few -years since, against the Comoro islands and various places in Africa, -against the Portuguese settlement and those of the sultan of Muscat, -in open _canoes, without compass or sails_, being propelled by paddles -and carrying sometimes upward of six thousand warriors. This shows the -practicability of exploring the coast even in more unsafe vessels, and -of a much smaller description, for the Malegashes were necessarily out -sight of land from two to three days occasionally, as the distance from -Grand Comoro to the Querimba islands on the main, where they landed -several times, is not less than one hundred and thirty-five miles. -Look at the hardy sons of New England also, navigating the Atlantic -ocean on vessels of thirty or forty tons, visiting every creek and nook -in the Falkland islands, South Shetland and Cape Horn, in search of -seals. Furthermore, there was the voyage of Pedro de Cavalho, and he -transmitted his description to Portugal. - -Now if the account of Herodotus is untrue, still Diaz's discovery of -the cape and Cavalho's voyage to Soffala, left de Gama but the short -distance of one thousand two hundred miles to explore, and therefore -he is only entitled to a small share of the credit which threw so much -lustre on the Portuguese name, in effecting a passage by sea to the -East Indies, which was previously performed by a most circuitous and -tedious route by land and by water; for de Gama, on his arrival at -Quilmany, obtained pilots to Mozambique, and from thence onward all -obstructions were removed. - -All that vast tract of country lying between the cape of Good Hope -and cape Guardafui, may now be said to be parcelled out among three -nations. The English are gradually or rather rapidly settling that -whole tract of country lying between the cape district (cape of Good -Hope) and Da Lagoa bay. There is a considerable settlement at Fish -river, about six hundred miles east of the cape, and there is a small -one begun at port Natal, about two hundred and seventy miles to the -north and eastward of it, on the coast of Natal, which is about the -same distance to Da Lagoa bay, still further to the eastward; and -they claim part of Da Lagoa bay by gift from a negro king, Mayetta, -the sovereign of Temba. This brings them to the borders of the -Portuguese settlements. The Portuguese claim from Da Lagoa bay to the -cape Delgado, lying in about 10 deg. south. From the latter cape to cape -Guardafui, it is claimed (with all the islands adjacent to the coast) -by the sultan of Muscat. - -The exports from Mozambique do not exceed half a million of dollars, -(since the suppression of the slave-trade.) These consist in elephant -and hippopotamus ivory, gold dust, tortoise-shell, ambergris, -columbo-root, drugs, cowries, rhinoceros-horns, and hides, &c., &c. -This is certainly a very meager account of the value of its exports, -to which may be added, pearls of a superior quality, there being an -abundance about the Bazaruto islands; but its resources are yet to -be developed, and I have stated previously of what they may consist, -provided the government will throw off all shackles which embarrass -trade, and have a duty not exceeding that which is now imposed by the -sultan of Muscat, to wit: a duty of five per cent. only, on goods -landed and sold, without any other charge whatever. If this is not -done, all trade among foreigners must necessarily proceed to the -sultan's dominions, in East Africa. The duties and exactions on foreign -commerce are so exorbitant, but more particularly on the American -trade, that our flag has almost entirely deserted all the Portuguese -ports in West as well as in East Africa. The Americans pay twenty-four -per cent. and the English fifteen, on imports, exclusive of an almost -endless number of fees, besides export duties. - -Imports consist of coarse cotton goods, white, brown, blue, and -striped, as well as some fine cottons, and a small quantity of light -quality woollen cloth, principally blue, suitable for the army. Powder, -arms, beads, sugar, tea, coffee, wine, spirits, &c.; in fact, every -article useful to eat, or to drink, or to clothe themselves. - -[Sidenote: DEPARTURE FROM MOZAMBIQUE.] - -Our passage from Mozambique to Table bay, was marked with storms and -tempests, violent and sudden gales, accompanied with a mountainous -sea. After passing the dangerous reef of rocks, called the Bassas -de India, in the southern part of the Mozambique channel, we were -assailed by one gale, with the rapidity of lightning, in the latitude -twenty-eight, and longitude thirty-four east, taking the ship -"_flat-aback_" instantaneously, and placing us in a most dangerous -and critical situation. It was a doubtful case, for some minutes, -whether she would not overset, or go down stern foremost. But "_He_ -who holds the winds in his power, the waters in the hollow of his -hand," mercifully decreed that we should once more see the living -objects of our affections, and be restored in safety to our beloved -country--"to the land of the brave, and the home of the free;" for -the ship's head "_payed off_," and she was got before the wind, all -sail being taken in, and drove before this furious hurricane for the -space of eight hours, under _bare poles_, the captain not daring to -loosen an inch of canvass to the tempest during that time. The first -three or four hours, she went at the rate of twelve miles per hour, -and when her rate had diminished to about eight knots, having had, in -the meantime, every article that would lessen the weight on the spar -and gun-decks, placed in the hold and on the berth-deck, she was "hove -to." It would have been done in the commencement of the gale, but as -the ship was very light, and the stock of provisions nearly expended, -it was apprehended, in bringing her "to the wind," she would overset, -when all would inevitably have perished. We touched on the northeastern -edge of bank Agulhas, for the purpose of taking advantage of the strong -southerly and westerly current, and we were by no means disappointed, -for the ship was set to the extraordinary distance of one hundred and -twenty-three miles, in twenty-four hours, south, 71 deg. west, between the -twenty-sixth and twenty-seventh of November, from the latitude of 32 deg. -36', and longitude 25 deg. 16', to the latitude of 35 deg. 21' and longitude -23 deg. 8'; but it was accompanied by a tremendous wrecking sea. As we -had three excellent chronometers, and made the land at daybreak the -following morning, about the bay of St. Sebastian; we ascertained, both -then and afterward, there was no error; and yet, on the twenty-sixth -and twenty-eighth, the current was very feeble, not exceeding thirteen -miles in the two days. On the thirtieth, we made the most southern land -of Africa, being cape Agulhas. It is a low flat point, the sea always -breaking over it. We saw, in the course of the day, cape Hanglip, -and the cape of Good Hope also, which bound the entrance into False -bay. Heavy gales of wind, between west and northwest, continued until -the fourth of December, when we made Table mount, and stood into the -bay in a violent southeast gale. We then saw, for the first time, -the phenomenon of the cloud-capped mount, which is always seen when -the wind is from that quarter. One looks with astonishment, at what -seems always to be the same cloud, sideling along from east to west, -apparently remaining stationary, without being instantly dispersed by -the furious tempest; but Doctor Arnott thus accounts for the singular -beauty and density of the clouds, which frequently envelop the mount, -and the cause of its creation and final dispersion: "The reason of the -phenomenon is, that the air, constituting the wind from the northeast, -having passed over the vast southern ocean, comes charged with as much -invisible moisture as the temperature can sustain. In rising up the -side of the mountain, it is rising in the atmosphere, and is therefore -gradually escaping from a part of the former pressure; and on attaining -the summit, it has dilated so much, and has consequently become so much -colder, that it lets go part of its moisture: and it no sooner falls -over the edge of the mountain and again descends in the atmosphere to -where it is pressed, and condensed and heated as before, than it is -re-dissolved and disappears: the magnificent apparition dwelling only -on the mountain-top." - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL AT TABLE BAY.] - -The ship came to anchor, about one mile from the landing, soon after -sunrise, and a beautiful _home scene_ was presented to our view. The -town is on a sloping plane, and rises gradually to the foot of the -celebrated Table mountain, a distance of about three miles, the height -of this precipitous mountain being three thousand six hundred feet. -The town is seen stretching out also on the right towards the Lion's -Head, which is at an elevation of two thousand eight hundred feet, and -again to the extreme right towards the Lion's Rump, which is at an -elevation of one thousand one hundred and forty feet. Around the base -of this hill, which is called Green Point, are a great many neat villas -and cottages. On this point stands the light-house, containing two -excellent lights on the same level. On the left again, farmhouses are -scattered about the base of the Devil's Peak, which is three thousand -three hundred feet high; the road leading to Wynberg is seen winding -round it. The vine-fields were beautifully verdant, the grape just -beginning to fill out, and the fruit and ornamental trees appeared to -be abundant in the city and about the cottages; but still the general -appearance of the country was far from being verdant, and the few -trees called the protea dispersed about the elevated and uncultivated -parts of the land, disappoint an American eye, being deficient in -noble forest-trees. The violent southeast gale of the previous day -having subsided, ushered forth a day redolent with sweets to the weary -mariner, being calm, mild and beautiful; the smoke was ascending from -a thousand fires in the town, preparing the early meal; a school or -church bell was heard in the distance; the people who visited us, -speaking the English language, forcibly reminded us of home and a -thousand endearing and painful recollections, after an absence of -nearly two years; but our cares were once more hushed, and the stormy -Indian ocean and its ten thousand perils were almost obliterated from -our memories, like the forms of last year's clouds; and with grateful -hearts we found ourselves again within the pale of civilization, in a -bracing and healthy climate which we had long and ardently desired to -meet, to recruit our debilitated frames, which were nearly exhausted -by the baneful climates of Java and Manila, Siam and Muscat, Mocha -and Mozambique. An interchange of salutes took place on our arrival, -but the effect of the echo, was not comparable to that produced by -the amphitheatre of rocky hills and caverns which encompass Muscat. -In passing up from the landing, we went through the water street of -every seaport town, across the grand parade to George's hotel, in the -street called Heeregracht, through the centre of which is a canal -which conducts off the waste water flowing from the base of Table -mount. From the same source the town and shipping are supplied, the -fountain-head being at the beautiful seat of Mt. Breda, by means of -iron pipes which conduct it to the jetty: hose being led into the casks -from the conductors, boats are enabled to load with great ease. The -canal is shaded on either side by the cape oak; it also passes through -a fine shaded walk which is still called the public garden, although -a very large portion of it is appropriated, most ignominiously, to -the culture of vegetables: it is probably two thirds of a mile in -length. The town is regularly laid out, is said to contain about -twenty-two thousand inhabitants, and has a neat appearance; there are -shops in abundance, but prices are extravagantly high. The houses are -generally made flat-roofed, so that the violence of the winds may -less affect them: they are built of ordinary brick and stuccoed; the -interior arrangements of the richer class, are similar to those in -larger cities. One is very much reminded of a Dutch American town in -the state of New York, excepting that soldiers are stationed at every -principal place, as though the inhabitants were not trustworthy; they -are seen before courts of justice, the government-house, postoffice, -and custom-house, but they are never seen in my own country, even -before the _palace_ of the President. - -[Sidenote: CLIMATE--FRUITS.] - -The climate of Cape Town is unquestionably very healthy, and not -surpassed in equability and in the agreeableness of its temperature. -In fact, the transition from heat to cold is very inconsiderable, in -comparison with many other climates. It seems, from a meteorological -table, kept for several years, that the mean temperature of Cape Town, -was at 671/4 deg. of Fahrenheit; the mean temperature, for the coldest winter -month, was 57 deg., the hottest, 79 deg., and the least heat during summer -was 63. Although the proportion of deaths is more than double that of -Portsmouth, in New Hampshire, yet this number is greatly augmented by -invalids from India, who there find their graves; but in the other -districts it is about in the same ratio as Portsmouth, averaging -about one and a half per centum. It was truly refreshing, to see the -rosy-cheeked children, and the healthy appearance of the inhabitants -generally, after having spent many months among the pale, sallow -complexioned and dying East Indians. Here an Indian may renovate his -exhausted frame, and be cured (if it be possible) of that never-ending -source of complaint, a diseased liver. There are good roads, pleasant -country-seats, fine horses, and good carriages; and he must be very -fastidious in his taste, who cannot be suited in his viands, for here -are fish, flesh, and fowl, in great variety. As to fruit, the quality -is excellent; the prices are very low, and the variety is certainly -extraordinary--for in January there are plums, apricots, peaches, -almonds, strawberries, mulberries, grapes, apples, oranges, lemons, -figs, muskmelons, and watermelons. In February the same. In March the -same, adding thereto lemons and pomegranates. In April, add pears, -limes, and quinces. In May, medlars, jambos or rose-apple, loquats, -a Chinese fruit, &c. In June, add shaddocks and citron, with various -kinds of apples and pears. In July, August, and September, the same, -adding oranges to the last month. In October, adding guavas, &c. In -November, early figs, strawberries, green almonds, and the fruits of -September and October. In December the same. And as to vegetables, -they are in every variety, almost at all seasons of the year. And who -could be so devoid of taste, as not to be gratified with the sight -of the immense variety of flowers, shrubs, and parasitical plants -which greet the eye at every step? It may, therefore, truly be called -Florida, or the Land of Flowers. The luxuries of Europe, of America, of -India, of China, and Australia--in short, of the world, are here; and -as to the inhabitants, so far as I had the pleasure of being acquainted -with the English part of them, they deserve every commendation -it is in my power to bestow, for their hospitality and unwearied -kindness--more particularly the acting-governor, Lieutenant-Colonel -Wade, the Honourable Mr. Justice Menzies, A. Oliphant, Esq., the -attorney-general, J. B. Edwards, Captain Bance, and the officers of the -seventy-second Highlanders; Captain Stevens, the commander, and the -officers of the ninety-eighth regiment. - -The articles of export of the most importance, are aloes, oil, raisins, -and other dried fruits; salt, tallow, and wool. There is exported also -excellent salted beef and butter, and bread, but no pork. The following -prices were paid for sundry articles, purchased by Mr. Stockton, -the purser, for the Peacock:--ale, two Spanish dollars per dozen, -(Cape made;) geese, one dollar; sheep, two dollars; fowls, fifteen -rix dollars; per dozen; flour, averages generally from ten to eleven -dollars, it is rarely as low as eight dollars fifty cents, frequently -at twelve Spanish dollars per barrel, of one hundred and ninety-six -pounds; hams and bacon, from Europe, twenty-three to thirty-five cents -per pound; butter, (Cape,) thirty-one and a quarter cents, including -keg; potatoes, six dollars per barrel, including barrel; pork, (Irish,) -twenty-five dollars; salt beef, (Cape,) eleven dollars per barrel, -two hundred pounds, including barrel, or four and a quarter cents -per pound without; beef, (fresh,) five cents; biscuit, five cents, -including bags; bread, (soft,) four cents; cheese, (Dutch,) twenty-one -cents; brandy, (Cape,) including pipe, which costs ten dollars, -sixty cents per gallon; Cape Madeira wine is from five to eighteen -pounds sterling per pipe of one hundred and ten gallons, according to -quality and ripeness; cordage, sixty shillings per one hundred English -pounds; ratline and spunyarn, fifty-four shillings; Stockholm tar, -fifty-four shillings per barrel; blocks eight-pence per inch; sperm -oil, seven and sixpence per gallon; linseed oil, seven shillings; -nails, ninepence sterling per pound; fir-plank, four-pence halfpenny -per foot; carpenters, six shillings per day; spirits of turpentine, -seven shillings and sixpence per gallon; pump-leather, five shillings -per pound; three and a half sides, tanned leather, cost sixty shillings -sterling; houseline, seven shillings and sixpence per dozen. The four -kinds of the celebrated Constantia are sold as follows:-- - -[Sidenote: PRICES OF WINES.] - - L _s._ _d._ - - Frontignac, per half aum of 19 gallons 13 2 6 - White ditto ditto 11 5 0 - Red ditto ditto 9 7 6 - Pontac, the richest, ditto ditto 22 10 0 - -The last costing nearly six dollars per gallon. There will probably -be added to the list of exports in a few years, olive-oil, cocoa, -figs, almonds, nuts, dried, pickled and smoked fish, raw silk, cotton, -tobacco, grapes and currants. If the British government would impose -a reasonable duty on _cape_ produce _at home_, the quantity of wine, -brandy, dried fruits, &c., would be vastly increased, and many a barren -field and neglected hill would blossom like the rose, and pour forth -riches inexhaustible. That any duty at all should be paid, seems most -strange and unnatural to an American, but that it should amount to a -prohibition (as on wine) is unbearable. At their own sister-colonies, -they are obliged to pay as follows; at Mauritius, six per cent. at New -South Wales, five, and at Hobart town, Van Diemen's land, fifteen per -cent.: whereas in Brazil they pay only the latter duty. What would -seem more strange to an American planter in Louisiana, than to have -his produce most extravagantly taxed, or taxed at all in the state of -Maine, but most fortunately it is prohibited by the constitution of the -United States. No less a duty than two shillings and six pence sterling -per gallon is paid on cape wine in England, and dried fruits are -extravagantly taxed. Taxation without _representation_ was one of the -causes of revolution, and the stamp act was another, with both of which -their colonies are burdened. It matters not whether they tax their -colonists, on the spot where there domicil is, or whether it is done in -England on their produce. The duty on imports and exports is the most -important branch of the revenue of the cape. Great Britain requires the -colony to pay the whole expense of her establishments, except the army -and navy, and yet all important offices are filled by the crown. As -it respects the local taxes they are almost innumerable. Among these -enumerated, I find every male or female, bond or free, who has arrived -at the age of sixteen, pays an annual tax of six shillings sterling -each, and ten shillings more on every servant, besides a tax on horses -and carriages, on the productions of the farm, wine, brandy, &c., &c. -In reference to household expenses, meat, fish and bread are cheap, but -wood is extravagantly high, and ever will be, as no coal has ever yet -been found in this, or in any other part of Africa; it is frequently as -high as six to seven pounds ten shilling sterling per chaldron. Sydney -can furnish it at a much cheaper rate, and it will probably soon be -brought altogether from that quarter. Servants' wages are higher here -than in any other country, and house rent is at about the same rate as -in New York. It seems almost incredible, yet it is unquestionably true, -that the contract price for fresh beef and mutton (for 1833) to supply -the garrison at the cape, should be at a fraction _less_ than a penny -per pound, and that bread should be furnished at a penny per pound; but -I presume it is made of barley and oats, and probably a proportion of -beans, as it is frequently in England, for it cannot be made of wheat -for three times the price. This information is derived from Governor -Wade. It is most surprising, that not a single whale-ship belongs to -the cape, when whales are so abundant, even within sight of their -harbours. There are two small boat-whaling establishments in False bay, -one at Cape Town, one in Algoa, and one in Plettenberg's bay. The boats -are mostly of a bad construction, and too small; they fish only for cow -whale, when they come into still water to calve, and cleanse themselves -with sand; but this kind of fishery is very destructive to the species, -and they have greatly diminished in numbers, so that the business is -scarcely worth following. Neither do they dry, pickle or smoke fish for -exportation, and yet the bays swarm with them, and there is a mine of -wealth yet untouched on the bank of Agulhas. The Brazil and La Plata, -the Mauritius, &c., would furnish good markets, and a fine hardy set of -seamen would be raised for commercial and other purposes. The fishing -on the bank is not so hazardous as that of Newfoundland, and they save -a tedious voyage, in going and returning; in fact, it may be said they -may be always in sight of their own homes. Salt is abundant, and the -weather never cold, they can make their own lines and leads, lead being -found in the colony, and they can raise cotton and make their sails -and cordage, and there is a plenty of timber on the east and northeast -coast. There are but eleven vessels belonging to the cape, of all -descriptions, which are principally employed in coasting voyages to -Port Elizabeth; they are from forty to one hundred and seventy tons, -and their united tonnage is but one thousand one hundred and four -tons. The colony has been represented to me, by many gentlemen, who -have visited all the districts, as being poor, the soil generally very -light and thin, and very deficient in water, the rivers being deep -seated, which drains off the moisture from the surrounding country, -subject to long and destructive droughts, and cursed with locusts -and grasshoppers, and the karras or plains being very extensive, and -totally unfit for cultivation, and withal very mountainous. But still, -I am convinced, that abundance of grain can be raised to advantage, -and wool, raw silk, wine, dried fruits, beef, &c., &c., besides the -products of the ocean, can be exported to a large amount, but Saxony or -Merino wool must become the most prominent article among the exports. -The farmers are wisely rooting out the wire-haired, _big-tailed_ cape -sheep, and substituting those which have _wool on their backs_. It is -not an article of luxury like wine, subject to fluctuations from mere -change of fashion. If his late majesty, George the fourth, had taken a -fancy to cape, instead of xeres, (sherry,) as he did a few years since, -it would have been a fortunate circumstance for the colony: the hills -would have been clothed with vines, instead of a green patch, here and -there, dotting the surface like the oases in a desert. - -[Sidenote: CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.] - -The cape of Good Hope, from its fine geographical position, being -placed on the highway between the world's nations, must become a place -of great importance, when the India and China trade is left free and -unrestricted, as it ought and must be. It is a most convenient stopping -place for the interchange of commodities, or to touch for supplies, or -to obtain information; all they now want is an unshackled commerce, and -a moderate duty laid on their produce in the parent-country, and by -their sister-colonies. Without this reasonable aid, their agriculture, -fisheries and commerce, will make but slow progress, and if the -colony does not become a burden, it can never be of much advantage to -England, excepting to draw off a part of her surplus population, or in -case of a war. But the commerce of the Cape has latterly increased, -notwithstanding burdens and the neglect of the parent-country. The -number of foreign arrivals in Table bay (which was in every month in -the year) from December seventeenth, 1831, to thirtieth November, -1832, was one hundred and ninety-seven; and at Simon's bay thirty-six, -including ships-of-war. At the time the Dutch held the Cape, no vessels -lay in Table bay during the winter months, but now I am informed, no -difference is made in the premium of insurance, between the winter and -summer months. Hempen cables of an extreme size (and anchors of course -in proportion) are always preferable to chain cables in any roadstead, -where there is a heavy swell and violent gales from the ocean; but the -first few fathoms from the anchor, should be chain to guard against -rocks and other obstructions and anchors, and it can readily be secured -to the hempen one. But still no cable is equal to _coir_, having three -valuable properties, being strong, buoyant and exceedingly elastic. -In the La Plata and elsewhere, it has been found, that riding by two -or more hemp cables in one string, in a violent gale and heavy sea, -enables the ship to rise with buoyancy, but if a great length of chain -is veered out, it lies upon the bottom and operates against the rise -of the vessel, and she therefore feels the full force of the sea, -which causes her to plunge deeply, or the sea to break over her, and -consequently there is more danger of foundering. - - - - -CHAPTER XXV. - - ALGOA BAY--IMPORTS--POPULATION OF THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE--PUBLIC - INSTITUTIONS--NEWS-PAPERS--DEPARTURE FROM THE CAPE--ARRIVAL - AT RIO JANEIRO--DEPARTURE FROM RIO JANEIRO--ARRIVAL AT BOSTON - HARBOUR--STATISTICAL TABLE. - - -The village in Algoa bay now called Port Elizabeth, is rising into -importance most rapidly. Twelve years since, it contained four houses, -and now it has upward of one hundred, and its residents are rated at -above twelve hundred persons. It is one of the most prominent portions -of the Cape colony, a place of resort for vessels to or from India. -Subscriptions to the amount of five thousand pounds have been raised, -for the purpose of building a lighthouse on cape Receife, and a jetty -for the landing of goods. There are five ships connected with the -direct trade to Europe. The number of vessels which have visited the -port this year is about fifty. There is a good road leading to Graham's -Town, ninety miles in length; it is in the Albany district, and is -said to contain upward of six thousand inhabitants. All imports and -exports by sea, from Graham's Town, &c., and the adjacent district of -Uitenhage, are from this port. The imports in 1828 were fifty-five -thousand two hundred and one pounds, and had increased in 1832 to one -hundred and twelve thousand eight hundred and forty-five pounds, and -the exports from forty-one thousand two hundred and ninety pounds, to -eighty-six thousand nine hundred and thirty-one pounds. Provisions -of all sorts are in abundance, and ships can be watered with great -facility by pipes, leading from a pump to the sea. The exports are -wine, brandy, vinegar, ivory, hides, skins, leather, tallow, butter, -soap, wool, ostrich-feathers, salted beef, wheat, candles, aloes, -barley, &c., &c. - -Plettenberg's bay is another place of resort for vessels in the winter -season, bound home from India. The roadstead is open to southeast, -but the anchorage is good, in eight, nine, and ten fathoms. The bay -is spacious, with sufficient room to beat out, in southeast gales. -The number of inhabitants is about four hundred, upward of one half -being white. Cattle and sheep are plentiful, and it is noted for the -excellence of its butter; and the timber is abundant. - -There is no port of consequence lying between Plettenberg's bay and Da -Lagoa excepting port Natal, and this has but thirteen feet of water at -its entrance; but it is well sheltered from prevailing winds. A few -English traders are only to be found there at present, but there is no -doubt that the British government will have a small garrison stationed -there in the course of 1834. The merchants at Cape Town are preparing -to take immediate advantage of this well-situated port, and protection -from the government follows of course. The traders now penetrate one -hundred and fifty miles along the southern coast beyond Natal, and far -into the interior, in a northerly direction. There are no other ports, -suitable for large ships to visit, than those already named, lying -between False bay and Da Lagoa. The country about Natal is represented -as being very fertile, well wooded and watered, and the climate -healthy; it was exceedingly populous until the modern Attila, _Chaka_, -took possession of it, and slaughtered most of the inhabitants. It -abounds in cattle, and ivory is abundant. The Kowie and great Fish -rivers, where there is a great number of English settlers, may be -made good ports, whenever suitable improvements are made at their -embouchures; they are barred like most of the rivers from the Cape to -Da Lagoa, or I may as well say all the rivers in Southern, Eastern and -Northeastern Africa, or from the cape of Good Hope to cape Guardafui. - -The whole line of North Africa, or the coast leading from the cape of -Good Hope to Benguela, is represented as being worthless, Saldunha -bay, and the coast lying between it and Cape Town, being the only part -where European settlers are found. Saldunah bay is well sheltered from -violent winds, having a sufficient depth of water, but the country is -very sandy and agriculture but little attended to; a few cattle and -sheep are raised among the scanty herbage. Except one or two bays where -whales resort, the remaining part offers no inducements to adventurers. - -[Sidenote: IMPORTS AND EXPORTS.] - -I herewith present the amount of the imports and exports into Table, -Simon's, and Algoa bays, for the year 1831:-- - - Pounds sterling. - The imports into Table bay, from Great Britain, were 271,687 - " " " British colonies 35,620 - " " " Foreign states 35,833 - " " " United States of America 1,207 - --------- - 332,527 - Pounds sterling - The imports into Simon's bay, from Great Britain 120 10 0 - " " " British colonies 1,352 5 0 - " " " Foreign states 628 5 0 - --------- 2,101 - Ditto, ditto, Algoa bay, port Elizabeth, from Great - Britain 9,458 5 0 - " " " British colonies 778 15 0 - " " " Foreign states 187 0 0 - 10,244 - --------- - The whole amount of imports into the Cape of Good Hope colonies L345,052 - --------- - The exports from Table Bay to Great Britain were 100,509 - " " " British colonies 64,596 - " " " Foreign states 11,513 - ---------- - L176,618 - Ditto, ditto, Simon's Bay to Great Britain 2,941 0 0 - " " " British colonies 1,561 0 0 - " " " Foreign states 1,296 0 0 - " " " Navy supplies 5,476 0 0 - ---------- - 11,277 - Ditto, ditto, Algoa Bay, port Elizabeth to Great - Britain 24,019 0 0 - " " " British colonies 4,800 0 0 - " " " Foreign states 1,892 0 0 - ----------- - 30,711 - --------- - L218,606 - -In the amount of exports, from the three ports named, twenty-nine -thousand and thirty-six pounds were articles of foreign growth or -manufacture, leaving the sum of one hundred and eighty-nine thousand, -five hundred and seventy pounds, being the value of articles of -colonial produce for the year 1831. - - The value of exports to Port Elizabeth, in 1831, - from Table Bay, was L44,672 - Value of imports, in return, from Port Elizabeth 34,640 - -These sums not being included in the above statements, must be added -to the aggregate of these ports respectively. Since April, 1832, Cape -Town and Simon's Town have been declared "_free warehousing ports_;" -and Port Elizabeth was declared a "free port" only--all goods of every -description whatever, the growth, productions, or manufacture of Great -Britain, or any of the possessions of the British crown, pay a duty -of three pounds per centum. All goods being the growth, produce, or -manufacture of any of the East India company's possessions, pay ten -pounds per centum. Any foreign nation, at peace with Great Britain, -may import, in foreign ships, any goods, being the growth, produce, -or manufacture of such foreign nation, ten pounds per cent., and they -may export any goods to any country, &c. All casks, barrels, staves, -heading, or hoops, to be used as wine casks, _duty free_. - -No gunpowder, arms, ammunition, or utensils of war, or fresh or -salted beef, pork, dried or salted fish, train oil, blubber, fins, or -skins of creatures living in the sea, can be imported, except from -Great Britain, or some British possession in America. No _tea_ can be -imported, except by the East India company, or some British possession -in America. - -Accounts are kept in pounds, shillings, pence, and farthings, or rix -dollars, skillings, and stivers. One stiver is equal to three eighths -of a penny; six stivers, two and one fourth, or one skilling; _eight_ -skillings, eighteen pence, or one rix dollar. Three shillings and -ninepence is the par value of the Spanish dollar, but they were sold by -the purser of the Peacock at four shillings; and doubloons, at sixteen -dollars, or three pounds four shillings. Bills on England were three -shillings and eleven pence sterling per dollar. - -The weights made use of in this colony, are derived from the standard -pound of Amsterdam, and the pieces permitted to be assized, are from -fifty pounds down to one loot, or the thirty-second part of a pound, -which is regarded as unity. - -Proportions between colonial and British weights and measures. Weights: -ninety-one pounds and four fifths, Dutch, are equal to one hundred -pounds English, avoirdupois. Measures: corn, four Dutch schepels are -equal to one Dutch muid, one hundred and seven ditto, to eighty-two. - -Winchester bushels. A load of ten muids is equal to thirty bushels, two -pecks, one gallon, and one pint English; eight bushels make a quarter -English. - -One ell of cloth is equal to twenty-seven Rhynland inches; one hundred -and thirty-three, fifty-one hundredths, Dutch ells, are equal to one -hundred English yards. - -The truth is, that all articles of produce are sold by English weight, -and not Dutch, unless by a special agreement. - -[Sidenote: POPULATION.] - -The colony of the cape of Good Hope is divided into ten districts. -Herewith, I present a table, showing the whole amount of the population -for 1831-1832; the number of births, marriages, and deaths. Mr. -Greig, the editor and publisher of the South African Almanac, says, -"It is compiled from tax and rolls, and there is an omission of the -itinerants' and Hottentots' settlement at Kat river, &c., to the number -of between fifteen and sixteen thousand;" and Cape Town is supposed to -contain about twenty-two thousand, in December, 1833, instead of the -number stated. - - -------------+-----------------+-----------------+----------------- - | Free Persons, | | - |white & coloured.| Slaves. | Total. - Districts. +--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------- - | Males. |Females.| Males. |Females.| Males. |Females. - -------------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------- - Cape Town | 6,410 | 6,949 | 2,921 | 2,906 | 9,331 | 9,855 - Cape District| 3,703 | 2,977 | 2,709 | 1,473 | 6,412 | 4,450 - Stellenbosch | 3,854 | 3,677 | 4,724 | 4,108 | 8,578 | 7,785 - Worcester | 5,758 | 5,655 | 2,667 | 2,135 | 8,425 | 7,790 - Swellendam | 6,063 | 7,867 | 1,650 | 1,381 | 7,713 | 7,248 - George | 3,286 | 2,740 | 1,106 | 1,068 | 4,392 | 3,808 - Uitenhage | 5,135 | 4,485 | 677 | 616 | 5,812 | 5,101 - Albany | 3,572 | 2,705 | 72 | 67 | 3,644 | 2,772 - Somerset | 4,494 | 4,375 | 781 | 623 | 5,275 | 4,998 - Graff Reinet | 6,397 | 4,613 | 1,505 | 944 | 7,902 | 5,557 - -------------+--------+--------+--------+--------+--------+-------- - Total | 48,672 | 44,043 | 18,812 | 15,321 | 67,484 | 59,364 - - -------------+--------+--------+-------- - | | | - | | | - Districts. | Births.| Mar. | Deaths. - | | | - -------------+--------+--------+-------- - Cape Town | 644 | 138 | 638 - Cape District| 123 | 28 | 98 - Stellenbosch | 296 | 102 | 189 - Worcester | 577 | 67 | 261 - Swellendam | 606 | 49 | 325 - George | 219 | 46 | 60 - Uitenhage | 300 | 60 | 81 - Albany | 177 | 34 | 89 - Somerset | 384 | 119 | 107 - Graff Reinet | 156 | 127 | 74 - -------------+--------+--------+-------- - Total | 3,482 | 770 | 1,922 - - Total 126,848 - Add for the army 2,500 - ------- - 129,348 - Add omissions, say 15,652 - ------- - Making a grand total of 145,000 - ------- - -This settlement, which was founded by the Dutch, under Governor -Riebeck, in 1652, contained in 1832 but a little upward of one hundred -and forty thousand, there not being so many inhabitants as there are -in the city of New York or Philadelphia, whereas the first English -settlement of Puritans, which landed in New England but thirty-two -years previous, now numbers upward of two millions, and the United -States not less than fifteen millions. The Dutch held it from 1692 -to 1795, when it was placed under the protection of the British -government, by order of the prince of Orange. It was restored to the -Batavian government in the commencement of 1803. In January, 1806, it -capitulated to the English arms under General Sir D. Baird, and it is -now an integral part of the British empire. - -On a calm and beautiful morning, before the sun had tinged the -mountains of Hottentots' Holland, or Table mount, we were preparing for -a ride to the celebrated vineyard of Constantia and to Simon's town. -J. B. Ebden, Esq., Captain Geisinger and myself, went in an excellent -carriage, having six fine horses, accompanied by Captain Shields of the -Boxer, Lieut. Craver of the Peacock, Mr. Poor of the Boxer, &c., on -horseback. A pleasant ride of five miles brought us to the beautiful -village of Wynberg, passing on the right of the Devil's Peak. This -village is adorned with a great number of gentlemen's seats, and neat -cottages, the avenues leading to them having well-trimmed hedges of -myrtle and oak, and over shadowed by pine, oak or fruit trees, the -grounds being ornamented with flowers and shrubs, and the porches -shaded with luxuriant grape-vines. A small but very pretty new church, -belonging to the Episcopalians, graces a rising ground on the right. -We proceeded on about five miles further, where the road branches to -the left and to the right, the former being the direct road to Simon's -town, and the latter leading to Constantia, &c. We breakfasted at the -picturesque seat of the late Governor Cole, at Protea, with Mr. Scott -of Bengal. From thence we went about three miles out of the direct -road, passing the Newlands, a celebrated seat of a former governor, -Lord Somerset, who lavished some eighty thousand pounds sterling upon -it, at the expense of the British government. We passed through a noble -avenue of ancient oaks, which led to Great Constantia, where we found a -very substantial Dutch dwelling-house, having extensive out-buildings -on the right, with the wine-store in the rear. We were very kindly -and hospitably received, and treated to a taste of four kinds of very -old, rich wine, drawn out of some of the immense leaguers, which line -both sides of an extensive building. Every thing about the place is in -excellent order; the variety of fruits, flowers, shrubs and creeping -plants, and live hedges, made it truly enchanting. - -[Sidenote: CONSTANTIA.] - -A fine stream of water runs through it, from the range of mountains, -on the decline of which the vineyard is situated. From this estate -two other vineyards have been formed, viz.: high and low Constantia, -so called from their relative positions to the mountains. There is -a most commanding view from the upper garden, the mountains about -Hottentots' Holland, cape Hanglip and the range of mountains leading -towards the celebrated cape of Good Hope, as well as False bay and the -Indian ocean, and had we ascended to the top of the mountains, which -overlook Constantia, about three thousand feet, we could have seen both -oceans at one view, the Indian and South Atlantic. The vines, which -were hanging thick with clusters of fruit, are kept as low as three -feet; only two fruit-bearing shoots of three eyes are left of the last -year's growth. The grapes are trodden out with the feet, as well as -pressed out, the former being preferred, as in ancient times. There was -but little to gratify the sight after leaving this hospitable place, -till our arrival at Simon's town. On the left is a low sandy isthmus, -(having on it many lagoons,) which connects the cape district with -Hottentots' Holland; it is about twelve miles in length, and separates -Table from False bay; there can be no doubt but that cape district was -once separated from the main land, and this plain was formed by the -accumulation of sand, thrown in by the gales from the Atlantic and -Indian oceans. A few miserable hovels are scattered here and there, -over this dreary isthmus, and on the right toward the mountains, there -were a few ordinary cottages, and a solitary shepherd watching his -flock, but scarcely a tree was seen in any direction, excepting a few -Proteas, or those about the farm-houses. We wound round the base of -Mysenberg, which is about two thousand feet high, passing through a -dreary and uncomfortable looking fishing village of the same name. -Proceeding on, we came next to Fishhook bay, where there is a poor -village, having a small whaling establishment. At this place we came to -a low, sandy isthmus, which is mostly covered at high water, and leads -to Chapman's bay, on the west; this isthmus separates in nearly equal -divisions the northern from the southern range of mountains, they being -in length twenty-nine miles, from the Lion's Rump to the cape of Good -Hope. - -About two miles from the latter village is Elsey peak, about twelve -hundred feet high, round which the road passes, the base being washed -by the sea, and then we came to the bay and village of the same name, -having another small whaling establishment; but the inhabitants had -shaken hands with poverty, and these three villages are evidently fast -going to ruin. Two miles further brought us to Simon's town; it was -suddenly presented to our view on winding round the base of a mountain, -with its naval arsenal and pretty white houses, having altogether a -neat and cheerful appearance. A frigate, a merchant-ship and a sheer -hulk, were riding quietly at anchor on the glassy bosom of the bay. We -stopped at a neat hotel, and after a visit to Admiral F. Warren and -family, by whom we were very kindly and hospitably received, we visited -the arsenal, this being the cape rendezvous for British ships-of-war on -this station, and found every thing in fine order and well arranged, -viz.: suits of sails, boats, blocks, rigging, masts, chain and hemp -cables, anchors, &c.; all in readiness for use from a seventy-four-gun -ship to a sloop. The streets were in good order, and the houses very -convenient and well built of stone or brick, and stuccoed, and the -whole aspect of the place was favourable, and had an air of comfort -and cleanliness, although bounded by barren, woodless and precipitous -mountains and hills, with only here and there a few scattered fruit or -forest trees about private enclosures. The town is represented to have -a population of one thousand seven hundred inhabitants. - -False bay is easy of access to vessels of the greatest depth of water, -having but few dangers and those visible. No harbour can surpass that -of Simon's bay in point of security, having a sufficient depth of water -for ships of any burden; the winds may be said never to blow from the -east, which is the only point from which vessels are exposed. The winds -most prevalent in False bay, are from the southeast, and Simon's bay is -completely sheltered from their violence; and in the winter from the -north, which does not affect vessels materially, which are properly -secured. Boats can always land, and refreshments of all kinds may be -had, excellent fresh beef and mutton, and salted cape beef, with -bread, biscuit, vegetables, wine, butter, &c., &c. - -The bay abounds with fish, and if there is any deficiency of articles -in the town, they may always be procured from Cape Town by the wagons. -Horses and carriages are always to be had, and the mail runs twice a -week to the capitol, during the warm months, and three times during the -cool part of the season; the distance is twenty-one miles. Within the -district there are plenty of cattle, and sheep, and wheat raised, and -wine and brandy made in abundance. It is every way a most convenient -and safe port for refreshments, and to repair vessels, and a most -desirable haven for shelter to the way-worn mariner, who has been -buffeting the storms of winter about this "cape of torments." Our -return occupied the space of three hours, and was performed by the same -set of horses throughout, with perfect ease. - -[Sidenote: PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.] - -The following public institutions are established at Cape Town: -The _South African library_, in a building at one end of the Grand -Parade, is at once the pride and boast of the colony. It contains -about ten thousand volumes in all departments of literature, and is -highly creditable to the place. The South African college, founded -in 1829, is spoken of in high terms by the inhabitants, although a -large portion of the sons of wealthy parents are sent to England to -complete their education. It has a professor of classical and English -literature, as well as one for Dutch, and one for mathematics and the -principles of astronomy. It has also a Dutch assistant and teacher of -German, an English assistant, a mathematical assistant, writing-master, -and drawing-master. There is also a society for promoting Christian -knowledge, a philanthropic society for the diminution of slavery -in the colony, and a royal observatory, having an astronomer, an -assistant-astronomer, and a chronometer and instrument maker; a Bible -union instituted in 1818; a South African infant school; a savings -bank; a South African literary and scientific institution, to which -is attached an excellent museum; a medical society, a "European and -burial society;" this society was formed in 1795, for supporting poor -and unfortunate fellow-countrymen, during their illness, and in the -event of their death, to cause them to be respectably interred. It is -a Dutch institution, and now possesses considerable funds. A "Saint -Andrews," friendly society, for the benefit of the Scotch, founded in -1820, to afford relief in sickness, and medical assistance. A widows' -and old women's fund; a widows' private fund to afford relief to the -widows of deceased members; a South African missionary society; a -London missionary society, established in 1795; a Wesley missionary -station society for Southern Africa. The school of industry, for -the instructing female children of all denominations in reading and -needlework; there is also a Sunday school attached to it. There are -also a ladies' benevolent society, an English choral society, and eight -Sunday schools. - -The commercial exchange is a handsome commodious edifice, having -a lofty and spacious centre-hall: the tables are furnished with -newspapers, and there is a good supply of mercantile works of reference -with maps, &c. Most of the public meetings are held here; the north -wing is used by the South African public library; a masonic hall is -held in another room, and it has a ball-room, fifty-eight feet by -twenty-four. - -There are also a _colonial insurance company_ and an _agricultural -society_, which are likely to be highly useful, not only to Cape Town -but the whole colony, branches being already established in most of -the districts. There are a temperance society, having nine branches, -in almost every district; an _orphan house_, and two "_free schools_," -besides other institutions. There is an English church now building, -called St. George's church, at a probable expense of sixteen thousand -pounds sterling; the Rev. George Hough is the chaplain; the service is -at present performed in the Dutch reformed church, at noon, after the -Dutch society has retired. The new church is calculated to hold one -thousand persons, of which three hundred seats are reserved for the -poor. A Lutheran church: St. Andrew's church (Presbyterian:) a Roman -Catholic chapel, and a Wesleyan and Methodist chapel, &c., &c. - -There are four newspapers printed in the colony, three at Cape Town and -one at Graham's town, the Government Gazette being one of them. There -has also been published since June, 1830, a monthly publication called -the Cape of Good Hope Literary Gazette; each number contains twelve -quarto pages. It is a most respectable periodical, and contains a great -deal of original matter, on general and local topics: it is independent -in its tone, liberal in its doctrines, and deserving of encouragement. -The "South African Almanac and Directory," for 1833, possesses very -high merit, and I am deeply indebted to it, for no inconsiderable -portion of statistical matter, &c., relative to the colony of the cape -of Good Hope. - -[Sidenote: MUSEUM.] - -Attached to the South African literary and scientific institution -is a museum; no museum I have yet seen, will compare with this, in -the superior arrangement of the birds and beasts; nothing can be in -finer order than the first: it would require many years of study and -observation, and a fine tact, to be able to arrange them in their -natural state as they are--to catch, in fact, the "living beauty," -when sporting among the wilds of his native bowers. There are many -hundreds in the highest state of preservation; the beauty of their -plumage is unsurpassed. There is also a small but valuable collection -of shells, minerals, fossils, coral, sponge, &c., &c. A French -gentleman is the artist, the preserver and arranger of this beautiful -museum. I regretted much, that an hour was all I had to devote to these -beautifully arranged objects of nature. There are a noble lion and a -lioness at the upper end of the public garden, belonging to government. -There were for sale in Cape Town a number of zebras from the Snow-berg -mountains; these were in fine order and appeared to be very tractable, -and several were mounted without any difficulty. This animal is so -well known that it is unnecessary to attempt giving any description -of it; their coats were in such good order, and the yellow ground and -black stripes so bright, distinct, and perfect, that one can scarcely -believe it is other than a work of man's fancy; it differs from the -zebra of the plains, by having black rings upon the legs. The price was -ninety pounds sterling per pair; they are built very compactly, and -are said to be a very hardy animal; there was an "_ant bear_," but it -differed materially from one I saw at Buenos Ayres; the body and nose -of the latter were longer, and the bristles on the back also of greater -length, and more rigid and wiry: he was very harmless, and suffered -any one to handle him: a spring-bock-springer, antelope, or showy-bock -was also for sale: he had a cavity about the lower part of the rump, -adjoining the tail, the hair being quite white: when he bounded in the -air this spot dilated by the effort, and closed again on descending. -The above animals, as well as birds, reptiles, &c., were for sale by -Mr. Reid, in Roland street--a "collector of curiosities" as he styles -himself on his card. - -Mr. Villet in Long street has a very great collection of animals living -and dead: the living ones are at his garden at Green Point. He is also -a nursery seedsman and florist: prepares birds, skins, insects, &c. -There are many other "collectors of curiosities." The enormous prices -paid by the English generally, put all the traders on the frontier upon -the "qui vive;" and the shell-collectors at Table and Simon's bay, &c., -find a ready sale and high prices for paper-nautilus, beautiful limpits -in great variety, as well as scaly chitons, &c. - -Dr. Smith has in his possession a stuffed Hottentot woman, formerly a -well-known notoriously bad character in Cape Town; she was skinned in -a very complete manner, excepting the head, hands and feet, the fleshy -part being taken away, and then preserved and stuffed and placed in -a standing position; it is almost the first attempt ever made: the -features are the same as when living: she was about thirty years of -age, of middle height, and well made, having close set and small tufted -twists of hair; apparently no bridge to the nose, thin lips, with -the extraordinary projection behind, which is common to her nation. -The Hottentots are unquestionably a distinct race, from the rest of -mankind, with the peculiarities well known. - -There is a race-course at Green point; the horses have a high -celebrity for swiftness, strength and beauty. It has been found that -the racehorses imported from England cannot compete with them. It is -probable they never fully recover from the fatigues of a tedious voyage. - -The oil which is preferred, is taken from the top of the tail of the -cape sheep; it burns without smoke or smell. The acorns are preserved -in fresh water, and the cattle fed on them as well as grass. - -There are regular mails to twenty-five different towns. The rate -of postage for a single letter, is from twopence to thirteen pence -sterling. - -There are stationed within the colony three regiments of soldiers, -the seventy-second Highlanders, the ninety-fifth and seventy-fifth -regiments; the two first named are at Cape Town and vicinity, the -seventy-second being stationed in various parts of the colony. I will -only say they are in the finest order possible, and the officers of the -royal artillery and royal engineers, are gentlemen that would honour -any situation in which they might be placed. - -Robbin island is low land, raised but a few feet above the level of -the sea, and can only be seen at a short distance, lying parallel with -the main and devoid of trees. It seems on the first view to be a part -of the continent; it is the Botany bay of the cape, and has a small -garrison; there is a good anchorage on the southeastern side, and a -safe passage between it and the continent. - -[Sidenote: EXPEDITION TO AFRICA.] - -There is an expedition preparing for discoveries in the interior of -Africa, to consist of about forty persons, under the direction of a -most worthy and scientific man, Dr. A. Smith. It was to leave Graff -Reinet, being the most convenient place of rendezvous, on the first of -June, 1834. At that place there can easily be procured oxen, wagons and -attendants. It is in contemplation to penetrate as far as the equator, -in a northeasterly direction, but the course will be varied according -to circumstances; the time it will occupy will probably be two years. -The objects in view are to enlarge the geographical knowledge of the -extensive and unknown regions to the northward of this settlement, to -obtain scientific information, especially as it regards the branches -of meteorology, geology and magnetism; to collect botanical specimens, -and those of natural history, and to ascertain what prospects the -productions of the country, and the disposition of the native tribes, -hold out to commercial enterprise, are the chief aims of the intended -experiment. There is to be a botanist, a surveyor and a draftsman, -capable of delineating landscape and portraying objects of natural -history, and a person capable of conducting the trading department -of the expedition. It seems there are to be seven wagons, with one -European, and four Hottentots, to each, and one hundred and twenty -crew, and it is probable that two sergeants and ten soldiers will -be added to the number. The cost of the expedition will amount, -probably, to not less than two thousand pounds, exclusive of the -necessary instruments, maps, &c. Lieutenant Edie of the ninety-eighth -regiment will assume the command, in case of accident to Dr. Smith. -Both of these gentlemen lately returned from a journey to Natal. May -every success attend so laudable an undertaking: it is fraught with -innumerable dangers, from sickly climates, _savage_ beasts, and still -more savage men. - -It is in contemplation to build a break-water, into the bay, commencing -near the Chavonne battery, and a survey has been completed. If a double -railway is made from the quarries on the side of the hill called -the Lion's Rump, which is at a very short distance, the full cars on -descending could be made to return the empty, and then it would be done -at a small expense, considering the importance of the object. - -On the twenty-first, our stock of provisions being replenished, we took -leave of our hospitable friends. The ship tacked and stood in shore, -and then tacked again and stood off, the main-topsail being aback; a -salute of twenty-one guns was fired, the English flag being hoisted at -the main. The compliment was returned by the castle, the ship "filled -away," and we passed between Robbin island and the main, owing to the -wind being light, from the northward and westward. The convict-houses -on the island are on the eastern side. The neatness of the officers' -quarters and the soldiers' barracks, gave some relief to a very barren -spot. The verdant vine-fields, the pleasant town, and the cloud-capped -Table mount, gradually receded from our view, as we approached the -land about Saldanha bay. The weather was fine, the temperature of the -air was delightful; a smooth sea, with light breezes, accompanied us -to the coast of Brazil, so that the smallest boat in the ship could -have performed the passage with perfect ease and safety. We did not -attempt to make much westing until the ship had arrived in the latitude -of about eighteen, and in the longitude of about eight west, owing to -the baffling and uncertain winds which are always experienced in a -higher latitude, as an approach is made toward the sea, midway between -the two continents, and toward the coast of America. And we derived -but little benefit from northerly and westerly currents, which only -assisted us about one hundred and fifty miles. On the seventeenth -January, (1834,) we once more were _blessed_ with the sight of "Lord -Hood's gigantic nose," and the Vac d'Assucar, and anchored the next -morning in Rio harbour. Having been deprived nearly twenty months of -letters from home, great anxiety was expressed by all for the return -of the boat, which had been despatched on shore and to the Natchez to -procure them--hopes and fears rushed on the fancy of all, as the return -boat approached the ship--the budget at length arrived, and was opened -and distributed, the seats torn asunder, and the contents read with the -utmost rapidity, and in a few minutes the delightful sound that "all's -well" was heard from the cabin to the ward-room, and from the steerage -to the berth, gun, and spar decks, repaying all for the thousand -perils they had encountered from stormy oceans, treacherous reefs, and -baneful climates. Such is the delight most painfully earned by a long, -protracted absence from our country, and our friends. - -The Boxer having parted company soon after leaving Table bay, and -keeping more to the westward than the Peacock, caused a delay of two -days in her passage beyond ours. I remained at Rio until the arrival -from "the river" of the Lexington, commanded by Captain M'Keever. - -[Sidenote: ARRIVAL AT BOSTON.] - -Having taken leave of many worthy friends on board the Peacock, I -embarked on board the Lexington, and on the first day of March we -were cheered with the welcome sound of the first lieutenant's voice, -ordering the capstan bars to be manned. The band immediately struck up -the cheering tune of "Homeward bound," the capstan bars flew round like -a top, and in a few minutes, the ponderous anchor was at the bows, and -as we "filled away," every countenance seemed exultingly to say, "Our -next anchorage ground will be within sight of home, and friends, and -our dear native shore." Light and unfavourable winds annoyed us for -the first fortnight, until we stretched as far to the eastward as 28 deg., -and latitude 19 deg., when the northeasterly wind began to prevail more -steadily. On the twenty-seventh day, we crossed the equator and passed -between cape St. Roque and the island of Fernand de Noronha. The whole -passage was marked with light winds, until we arrived in the latitude -of Bermudas, when strong gales from the northward caused us to suffer -severely from the cold. On the twenty-fourth of April we caught the -first sight of land at cape Cod, and that evening, after "battling the -watch" all day with a furious northwester off cape Ann, we put into -Boston harbour and anchored near the light-house. On quitting the ship -and her worthy commander and officers, the next morning, the music -played, "Home, Sweet Home," which I was upon the eve of visiting, after -a painful absence of twenty-six months. - - _A Table, showing the names of the various places visited in - rotation, on board the United States ships-of-war, Peacock and - Lexington, from the eighth of March, 1832, to the twenty-fourth of - April, 1834; together with the distances between each place, and - the number of days at sea._ - - --------------------------------------------------------------------- - | |Distance | Number - From | To | in miles | of days - | |per log. | at sea. - -----------------+-----------------------------+----------+---------- - Boston | Port Praya | 3,672 | 31 - Port Praya | Rio de Janeiro | 2,641 | 22 - Rio Janeiro | Montevideo | 1,159 | 13 - Montevideo | Buenos Ayres | 110 | 2 - Buenos Ayres | Montevideo | 133 | 3 - Montevideo | Bencoolen | 9,215 | 63 - Bencoolen | Crokatoa and Angier | 593 | 9 - Angier | Manila | 1,631 | 19 - Manila |{ Macao }Canton | 589 | 7 - |{ Linting } | | - Linting | Phuyen bay and Cochin-China| 718 | 7 - Phuyen bay | Siam | 950 | 10 - Siam | Singapore | 1,028 | 25 - Singapore | Batavia | 920 | 26 - Batavia | Angier | -- | 2 - Angier | Red Sea | 4,694 | 38 - Red Sea | Persian Gulf | 1,416 | 17 - Muscat | Quintangony and Mozambique | 2,782 | 30 - Mozambique | Cape of Good Hope | 2,306 | 24 - Cape of Good Hope| Rio de Janeiro | 3,673 | 27 - |----------+---------- - Peacock, miles | 38,230 | 370 days. - Lexington, from Rio de Janeiro to } | | - Boston } | 6,948 | 54 do. - |----------+---------- - Whole _distance_ of miles, exclusive} | 45,178 | 424 do. - of currents } | | - - - - -APPENDIX. - - -_State of Commerce in the year 1833, at Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; -Condensed and brought into Form from Various Documents._ - -There _arrived_ 1704 national vessels, and _departed_ 1629; and -_arrived_ 696 foreign vessels, and _departed_ 617. - -The _exports_ consisted of the following articles, viz.:-- - - Valuation. - Coffee, 577,764 bags and barrels 10,494,576 000 - Sugar, 15,000 boxes, 11,204 barrels, - and 7,217 bags 1,459,513 500 - Hides, 187,530 754,048 880 - Horns, 380,242 48,922 340 - Rice, 14,248 bags 80,276 000 - Rum, 3,492 pipes 192,928 000 - Tobacco, 15,919 rolls 158,584 500 - Ipecacuanha, 458 barrels and bundles 59,880 000 - Tapioca, 937 barrels and bags 3,002 000 - Cotton, 196 bales 1,488 000 - Timber, 1,633 dozens 40,860 000 - Tanned half hides, 5,210 20,987 000 - Gold, diamonds, &c. 2,400,000 000 - -------------- - Valued at 15,715,060 820 - -------------- - Mil Reis. Rs. - The _imports_ were valued at 16,560,372 752 - The _revenue_ amounted to the sum of 4,847,952 550 - -There were imported 184,000 barrels of flour, including 13,000 barrels -on hand, on the first of January; and there were exported 48,500; and -there were on hand, the first of January, 1834, 35,000, which gave -100,500 barrels consumed--164,185 barrels were imported from the United -States, and 6,815 barrels from Europe and elsewhere. - -The number of foreign vessels despatched during the year, were 565, -measuring 149,746 tons, of which, - - 208 were English, measuring 53,985 tons. - 167 " American " 50,410 " - 7 " Austrian " 1,771 " - 5 " Belgian " 1,149 " - 16 " Danish " 4,688 " - 26 " French " 7,252 " - 6 " Spanish " 1,059 " - 3 " Dutch " 1,225 " - 13 " Hamburgh " 3,919 " - 6 " Montevideo " 1,054 " - 4 " Neapolitan " 815 " - 40 " Portuguese " 7,327 " - 26 " Sardinian " 5,661 " - 21 " Swedish " 5,496 " - 2 " Tuscan " 382 " - 2 " Russian " 1,366 " - 3 " Bremen " 904 " - 1 " Roman " 158 " - 9 " Argentine " 1,116 " - -There were shipped, by American vessels to the United States, 236,708 -bags of coffee, and to Europe, 67,043 bags; making 303,751 bags, &c., -which is upward of one half of the whole quantity exported. - -Production of coffee throughout the world, in 1833:-- - - Pounds. - - Brazil 92,432,240 - Java 40,000,000 - Rest of India and Arabia 30,000,000 - Cuba 50,000,000 - Porto Rico 15,000,000 - St. Domingo 40,000,000 - British West Indies 20,000,000 - French " 15,000,000 - Dutch " 10,000,000 - Spanish " 10,000,000 - ----------- - Total pounds 322,432,240 - -Consumption of coffee in 1833, copied from an Antwerp newspaper:-- - - Pounds. - Low Countries 90,000,000 - Germany and the Baltic 70,000,000 - Spain, Portugal, and the Mediterranean 65,000,000 - England and Ireland 25,000,000 - France 24,000,000 - United States 80,000,000 - ----------- - 354,000,000 - ----------- - - Pounds. - In 1830, Brazil produced 391,785 bags 62,685,600 - " 1831, " " 430,672 " 68,907,530 - " 1832, " " 513,296 " 82,127,360 - " 1833, " " 577,764 " 92,432,240 - -Being an increase of nearly fifty per cent., from 1830 to 1833. - -Coffee consumed in the world:-- - - Tons. - The consumption in Great Britain, is about 10,000 - " " France " 20,000 - " " Netherlands " 40,000 - " " Spain and Portugal " 10,000 - " " Germany and the Baltic " 32,000 - " " United States " 15,000 - ------- - 127,000 - -This quantity is produced as follows:-- - - British West India Islands 13,390 - Java 20,000 - Cuba 15,000 - St. Domingo 16,000 - Dutch West India Colonies 5,000 - French ditto and Bourbon 8,000 - Brazil and S. Main 32,000 - ------- - 109,390 - -Population of Brazil in 1819, continued:-- - - Whites 843,000 - Indians 259,400 - Free casts 426,000 - Ditto blacks 150,500 - Black slaves 1,728,000 - --------- - 3,406,900 - --------- - - Produce: 100,000 cases sugar, of 15 qtt., of 128 pounds each. - 150,000 bales of cotton, 12,500,000 pounds. - Between 12 and 13 millions pounds of coffee. - - -[A] - -_Of the Aboriginal Inhabitants of the Malayan Peninsula, and -particularly of the Negroes called Semang._ - -This subject has afforded matter of curious and interesting -speculation, to several writers of modern date. Marsden, Leydon, -Raffles and Crawfurd have alternately bestowed a slight attention upon -it; but it is one which requires more minute investigation, and would -amply repay the labours of the philosopher. - -Of the _interior parts_ of the Malayan peninsula, which is the Suvarna -or Gold island, one of the three sacred isles of the Hindoos [a] and -the _grand depot_ for souls after death, [b] there is little known -even at the present day, and the researches which have hitherto been -made, regarding the Aboriginals of this portion of the East, have as -yet been exceedingly defective, and unattended with any satisfactory -result. "In our present state of knowledge," as a late author observes, -"I fear we must pronounce that the origin of the nations which inhabit -the Indian islands seems buried in unfathomable obscurity, and hardly -appears less mysterious than that of indigenous plants and animals of -the country they inhabit." [c] Mr. Marsden, in the introduction to -his Malayan grammar, has quoted the opinion of Sir S. Raffles, (then -Mr. Raffles, secretary to the governor of Prince of Wales island,) -who published a paper on the Malay nation, in the twelfth volume of -the Asiatic Researches, relative to the Aborigines of the peninsula. -"The Malays," observes this author, "seem to have occupied a country -previously unappropriated, for, if we except an inconsiderable race -of Caffrees who are occasionally found near the mountains, and a few -tribes of the Orang-Benua, there does not exist a vestige of a nation -anterior to the Malays in the whole peninsula. As the population of the -peninsula has excited much interest, my attention has been particularly -directed to the various tribes stated to be scattered over the country. -Those on the hills are usually called Semang and are woolly headed; -those on the plains, Orang-Benua, or people belonging to the country; -the word Benua being applied by the Malays to any extensive country, -as Benua China, Benua Kling, but it appears to be only a sort of Malay -plural to the Arabic word Ben or Beni, signifying a tribe." [d] This -hypothesis, however, is satisfactorily confuted by Marsden, who asserts -that Benua is a genuine Malay word signifying country, region, land, -and that a slight variation of the word, as Whennua or Fennua is -found in the Bisagan dialects of the Philippines, and the languages -of the South Sea islands, bearing a precisely similar signification. -In my inquiries among the Malays, I have not been able, however, to -discover that the term Orang-Benua (which is literally Aborigines -or people of the land) is ever applied to any particular race of -the Malayan peninsula, the supposed Aboriginal tribes being styled -Sakei or Orang-Bukit, Orang-Laut or Semang. According to the Malayan -legends, indeed, there is a race of wild people said to be found in -the interior of Buman, the boundary between the states of Perak and -Salengore, designated Tuah-Benua [e] by the Salagorians, and known at -Quedah by the name of Mawas. They are represented as bearing a strong -resemblance to the Mawa or long-armed gibbon, and instead of having -a bone in the lower part of the arm, they have a piece of sharp iron -which serves the double purpose of an arm and a cleaver for cutting -wood. There is another savage race, according to the Malays, called -Bilian, who are covered with hair, and have nails of extraordinary -length. Their principal occupation is said to be tending the tigers, -which are their peculiar flock, as the buffaloes are of the Malays. In -rainy nights, they are represented by the Malays as sometimes coming -to their residence and demanding fire, which those who are acquainted -with their savage disposition, hand them upon the point of a sumpit -or arrow tube, or at the extremity of a sword; as were the person to -present it with his hand, he would inevitably be seized and devoured by -the savage monster, a fate, which the credulous Malay firmly believes, -has befallen many. It is admirable how the Mahometans of the present -day even, assign to these regions inhabitants so aptly coinciding with -the mythological superstitions of the Hindoos. Fitter subjects could -not indeed be attributed to the sovereign of darkness, whose abode -is said to be in the peninsula of Malacca, than the Mawas and Bilian -races above described; whose appearance is quite consistent with what -some intelligent Christians even, consider as the imps of the infernal -regions, and it is still more remarkable that the supposed residence of -the Mawa species is, according to the Malays, in the very neighbourhood -of the city of the Hindoos, yama-pari, or the _grand depot_ for _souls_ -after death. Another circumstance deserving of notice is, that the -Menang-Kebans of Sumatra, supposed to be the primitive Malays, "deduce -their origin from two brothers named Perapati See Batang and Kei -Tumunggungan, who are described as being among the forty companions of -Noah in the ark, and whose landing at Palembang, or at a small islet -near it named Lauha Pura, (probably the small island of Lucepara) is -attended with the circumstance of the dry land being first discovered -by the resting upon it of a bird (Perapati is literally a pigeon) that -flew from _the vessel_. From thence they proceeded to the mountain -named Sigantang-Gantang, and afterward to Priangan in the neighbourhood -of the great volcano, which at this day is spoken of as the capital -of Menang-Kaban." [f] There is a mountain called Gunon-Gantang in -the Perak country, the supposed Yama-puri, and what is still more -extraordinary, the king of Perak, in opposing the claims of the Siamese -to a Boonga-Mas or Golden Flower, in a letter to a friend, says, "I am -he who holds the royal sword and the dragon Betel Stand, and the shell -fish which came out of the sea, which came from the hill of Segantang." -I do not profess myself to be sufficiently conversant with the subject, -to reason farther on this singular coincidence, but it appears to me -that many curious inferences might be drawn from it, and I shall leave -the matter for the investigation of a more scientific pen. - -[a] Sir S. Raffles remarks: "Farther investigation may, perhaps, -establish Java and Sumatra, or rather the Malayan ports, (in which -general term, we may include all the islands containing the Malayan -ports,) as not only the Taprobane or Taprovana of the ancients, but -also the sacred isles of the Hindoos." See History of Java, vol. i., -page 5. - -[b] "As Ptolemy places Ma-Lancapuri in the same longitude with the -Pauranies, he must have used the same data, which he had, probably, -received from the Hindoos, whom he conversed with at Alexandria. -Ma-Lanca being, according to the Pauranies, in the centre of the -peninsula, it must be of course in about four degrees of latitude -north, and there it is placed by Abul Fayil, and in 4 deg.. 20', by -Ptolemy. Ma-Lanca is called, in the Pauranies, Yamala and Malaya, which -last denomination it still retains. It is styled also Chanchan-apuda, -or with the Golden Skirts. It may be translated the country of the -Golden Feet, a title assumed by the emperor of Ava, and other kings -of that part of the world: and the Malayan _breeze_ is as famous in -the East, as the _Sabaean_ in the west, and its capital was also -called Saba or Zaba. In the beginning of the Brahmanda-purans, it is -declared, that the stronghold of Yama Tri-_cuta_, that is to say, the -peninsula of Malacca, is one hundred yo-janas long, and thirty broad, -which is sufficiently accurate. Ptolemy mentions, there is a place, -called Malaioncolou, probably, from the Sanscrit, Malaya-Culum, which -implies a place on the borders or shores of Malaya; the same is called -Maletur by Marco Polo; Malayatir and Malaya-Culom, are synonymous.[A] -It is singular, that the city of Canca-Nagera, or Ma-Lancapuri, is -placed by Ptolemy in the exact latitude of the river Dinding, in the -Perak territory, (which is known as the _Temala_, or Land of Tin, -of the same author,) and which is, no doubt, the same city alluded -to in the Sejara Malaya, or Malayan Annals, written in the year of -the Hajeirat, 1021, or a little more than two centuries ago. It is -therein mentioned, that Rajah Suran Padshah, (said to be a descendant -of Alexander the Great,) formed the design of subjugating China, and -for this purpose his men-at-arms, and the rajahs dependant on him, -assembled from every quarter, with their hosts, to the number of one -thousand and two lacs. With this prodigious host, he advanced against -China, and in his course, forests were converted into open plains--the -earth shook, and the thickets moved--the lofty grounds became level, -and the rocks flew off in shivers, and the large rivers dried up. -Two months he marched on without delay, and the darkest night was -illuminated by the light of their armour, like the lustre of the full -moon; and the noise of the thunder could not be heard for the loud -noise of champions and warriors, mixed with the cries of the horses and -elephants. Every country which Rajah Suran approached, he subdued and -reduced under his subjection, till at last he approached the country of -Gangga Nagara, the rajah of which was named Ganggi Shah Juana, which -city is situated on a hill of very steep approach in front, but of -easy access in the rear.[B] Its fort was situated on the banks of the -river Dinding, in the vicinity of Perak." It is also worthy of notice, -that there are two rivers under this mountain, which bear the name of -Sangah Kechil and Sangah Besar, or the small and great Laugah. It will -also be observed, by a reference to any of the charts of the straits -of Malacca, that there is an island, called Callum, or Collong, which -forms the straits of the same name, and which are about a day's sail -from the Dindings. There is a river of the same name on the main, from -which much tin is exported, and which is, perhaps, the Malaion-Colon of -Ptolemy, and Malaya-Culum of the Sanscrit, notwithstanding the powerful -arguments against such a supposition. It must not be omitted to notice -besides, that there is another river to the southward of Colong, called -Langar, which bears such a striking affinity to Lanca. An intelligent -author (Mr. Crawford) asserts, that 'The word Kolon is, without any -alteration, Javanese, and means the west, and the compound word, -Malayu-Kolon, exactly in the order in which it stands, means, 'Malays -of the west;' and there is an unanswerable objection against supposing -Malayu-Kolon to be on the Malayan peninsula, or supposing this to be -the Golden Chersonesus or Khruse, at all, which will occur at once to -every one familiar with the well-known history of the Malays. It is -this--in the age of Ptolemy, and for many ages after it, the Malayan -peninsula was uninhabited, or inhabited only by a few negro savages, -resembling the cannibals of Andaman, wretched beings, with whom there -could have been no intercourse, or at least no commerce. Malays did not -emigrate from Sumatra, their parent-country, and settle in the Malayan -peninsula, until the comparatively modern period of 1160, a thousand -years after the time of Ptolemy, while Malacca was not founded until -1252, and every other Malay state, on the peninsula, is of a still more -recent foundation.'--History of the Archipelago, vol. iii. p. 190, 191. - -[A] Major Milford's Essay on Asiatic Researches, vol. x., pp. 144, 145, -146, 147. - -[B] Forrest alludes to a remarkable mountain in this quarter: "Gunang -Jantong, hanging hill, is remarkable, near Laroot river." - -[c] Crawford's Archipelago, vol. i. p. 36. - -[d] We are informed by Marsden, that the Sumatrans are firmly persuaded -that various particular persons are what they term "betuah," (sacred, -invulnerable, not liable to accident.) The belief which prevails -in that island, however, among the Malays, of the transmigration -of souls, does not extend to the Malays of the peninsula, who have -spirits and imaginary beings of their own, among which we may safely -reckon the Mawas and Bilian. Mr. Marsden says of the Sumatrans: "They -have an imperfect notion of a metempsychosis, but not in any degree -systematic, nor considered as an article of religious faith. Popular -stories prevail among them, of such a particular man being changed -into a tiger, or other beast. They seem to think, indeed, that tigers, -in general, are actuated with the spirits of departed men, and no -consideration will prevail on a countryman to catch or to wound one, -but in self-defence, or immediately after the act of destroying a -friend or relation. They speak of them with a degree of awe, and -hesitate about calling them by their common name, (ariman or machang,) -terming them respectfully sewa, the wild animals, or even nenck, -(ancestors,) as really believing them such, or by way of soothing them, -as our ignorant country-folks call the fairies 'the good people.'" - -[e] In the history of Sumatra, there is a description of two races -of wild people on that island, called Orang Kubu and Orang Gugu; the -latter of whom seems to correspond with the description of the Bilian -of the peninsula. "In the course of my inquiries among the natives," -observes Mr. Marsden, "concerning the Aborigines of the island, I have -been informed of two different species of people, dispersed in the -woods, and avoiding all communication with other inhabitants. These -they call Orang Kubu and Orang Gugu. The former are said to be pretty -numerous, especially in that part of the country which lies between -Palembang and Jambi. Some have, at times, been caught, and kept as -slaves, in Labun; and a man of that place is now married to a tolerably -Kubu girl, who was carried off by a party that discovered their huts. -They have a language quite peculiar to themselves, and they eat -promiscuously whatever the woods afford, as deer, elephants, wild hogs, -snakes, or monkeys. The Gugu are much scarcer than these, differing in -little, but the use of speech, from the Orang Utau of Borneo, their -bodies being covered with long hair. There have not been above two or -three instances of their being met with by people of Labun, (from whom -any information is derived,) and one of these was entrapped many years -ago, in much the same manner as the carpenter, in Pelpay's fables, -caught the monkey. He had children by a Labun woman, which also were -more hairy than the common race, but the third generation are not to -be distinguished from others. The reader will bestow what measure of -faith he thinks due to this relation, the veracity of which I do not -pretend to vouch for. It has, probably, some foundation in truth, but -is exaggerated in the circumstances."--See History of Sumatra, p. 41. - -[f] See History of Sumatra, pp. 332, 333. - -At Perak, the principal tin country of the peninsula, there are two -distinct races of wild people in the interior, the one called Semang, -resembling those of Quedah in personal appearance, but speaking a -different dialect, somewhat more civilized, and fond of collecting -silver and gold, with which they ornament their spears and knives, -which they obtain in exchange for the products of the wood; the others -are called Orang-Sakei by some, and Orang-Bukit or hill-people by -others. [g] They are much darker complexioned than the Malays, but -fairer than the Semangs, and speak a distinct language of their own. -They are not so timid as the Semangs, and sometimes come down to the -Malayan villages to amuse the inhabitants by their peculiar dances and -music. Their ordinary dress consists of pieces of bark beat out, tied -round their middle, but in their woods they are frequently met quite -naked. Both tribes are reported to be pretty numerous on the hills -which divide the Perak from the Patani states, and they are often -engaged in hostilities with each other. They are not so untractable as -the Semangs, and some of their children are trained up as domestics in -the Malayan families. - -[g] This race of people seem to correspond in their appearance and -habits with a tribe called Jokong, which Sir S. Raffles describes as -being found near Malacca, (Asiatic Researches, vol. xii., p. 109): -"I had an opportunity," remarks this author, in his paper on the -Malay nation, "of seeing two of these people, from a tribe in the -neighbourhood of Malacca; it consisted of about sixty people, and -the tribe was called Jakoons. These people, from their occasional -intercourse with the Malayan villages, dependant on Malacca, speak -the language well to be generally understood. They relate, that -there are two other tribes, the Orang Benna and the Orang Udai. The -former appears to be the most interesting, as composing the majority; -the latter is only another name for the Semang or Caffres. They are -not circumcised, and they appear to have received some instruction -regarding Nabi Isu, or as they pronounce it, Nabi Isher. They, -however, have no books, nor any word for God, whom they designate by -the Portuguese word Deos. The men are well formed, or rather short, -resembling the Malay in countenance, but having a sharper and smaller -nose. They marry but one wife, whether rich or poor, and appear to -observe no particular ceremony at their nuptials; the consent of the -girl and the parents being obtained, the couple are considered as man -and wife." - -The Orang-Laut is a race of people resembling the Malays in appearance, -who live almost entirely on the water; they are certainly the -Ichthyophagi of the East, and they subsist wholly upon fish. Dr. -Leyden supposes the Battas of Sumatra to be the Ichthyophagi described -by Herodotus; but there are several circumstances in his description -which would seem to contradict such a supposition. The same author -also, in alluding to the Batta Anthropophagi or cannibals of Sumatra, -says: [h] "This inhuman custom is not however without a precedent in -history, for Herodotus positively asserts that the Padang or Pedasi, -about five hundred years before our era, were not only addicted to the -eating of raw flesh, but accustomed to kill and eat their relations -when they grew old." Now it is curious that Batta or Battey, for the -name is written both ways, seems to be the very word which in Greek, -is rendered Padasi, the letter P being almost always pronounced B -among several of the Indo Chinese nations, as in the word Pali, which -is almost always pronounced Bali. The following is the account which -Herodotus gives us of the Paday or Padasi:--"Another Indian nation, who -dwell to the _eastward_ of these, (the Indian Ichthyophagi,) are of -Nomadic habits and eat raw flesh; they are called Paday and are said to -practise such customs as the following: whoever of the community, be he -man or woman, happens to fall sick, his most familiar friends, if it is -a man, kill him, saying, that by his pining in sickness, his _flesh_ -will be spoiled for them, and though he deny that he is sick, they do -not attend to him, but put him to death and feast on him. When a woman -falls sick, she is treated in like manner by her most intimate female -associates. They also sacrifice and feast on him who arrives at old -age, and this is the reason that so few ever attain it, for they kill -every one who falls sick, before that period." [i] Although this account -corresponds in some particulars with the habits of the Battas, yet it -differs materially in others. The Battas, it is well known, inhabit -the _central_ parts of Sumatra and but rarely approach the _seashore_; -they could not therefore be termed Ichthyophagi, as they scarcely _see -fish_. The Orang-Laut of the present day are not known to be addicted -to cannibalism, though it is extremely probable they were in former -times, as they _yet_ retain all the characteristics of the most savage -life. They rove about from one island to another, and are found in -greatest numbers about the Lancavy group of islands opposite Quedah, -and likewise in the straits of Singapore, Dryon, Banca and Belitong. -They subsist wholly by fishing, and are very expert at striking fish -with the spear; they live principally in small canoes: sometimes when -the weather is boisterous, or their little barks require repair, they -erect temporary huts on the seashore: they are almost all covered with -ring-worms and scorbutic eruptions, and have altogether a most squalid, -wretched look; they are sometimes, when chance throws them in the way -and they have become a little civilized, employed by the Malays to pull -an oar, at which from their continual practice, they are very expert; -"their religion is," (as Symes says of the Andamaners,) "the genuine -homage of nature," offering up a hasty petition to the sun and moon. -Of the origin of that most singular and curious race called Semang, -[j] the Malays possess no tradition: certain it is, however, that -the tribes of them which inhabited various parts on both sides of the -peninsula, were much more numerous before many of the Malayan colonies -were founded by emigrants from Sumatra. The Semangs are designated by -the Malays Semang Paya, Bukit, Bakow and Bila. The Semang Paya are -those who reside on the plains and borders of morasses; the Semang -Bukit whose abode is on the _hills_, and the Semang Bakow are so -called from their frequenting the _seashore_, and occasionally taking -up their quarters in the mangrove jungles; the Semang Bila are those -who have been somewhat reclaimed from their savage habits and have -had intercourse with the Malays. A similar race of people are said to -have formerly inhabited all the islands of the Archipelago, and small -parties are still to be found on many of them. To the eastward they -are called Dyake, and on the east coast of the Peninsula, Pangan. They -are at present most numerous in the interior of Jan, a small river to -the northward of Mirlow, near the lofty mountain Jerei, in the Quedah -territory. There are small parties also in the mountains inland of -Jooroo and Krian, opposite Pinang. Their huts are temporary dwellings, -(for they have no fixed habitations, and rove about like the beasts of -the forest,) consist of two posts stuck into the ground, with a small -cross-piece, and a few leaves or branches of trees laid over to secure -them from the weather; some of them indeed, in the thicker parts of the -forest, where the elephants, tigers, and other wild animals are most -abundant, make their temporary dwellings upon the cliffs, and branches -of the large trees; their clothing consists chiefly of the inner bark -of trees, having no manufactures of their own; a few who have ventured -to approach the Malayan villages, however, obtain a little cloth in -exchange for elephant's teeth, gahru, dammer and canes, which they -procure in the forest, but of the intrinsic value of which they possess -little knowledge, and are imposed upon by the crafty Malay. From the -Malays also, they procure their arms, knives and tobacco, of which -last they make great use; they in turn frequently impose upon the -superstitious Malays, when they have no products to barter and wish -to procure a supply of tobacco, by presenting them with the medicines -derived from particular shrubs and trees, which they represent as -efficacious for the cure of headaches and other complaints. The Semangs -subsist upon the birds and beasts of the forest and upon roots; they -eat elephants, rhinoceroses, monkeys, and rats, and with the exception -of the partial and scanty supplies which they obtain from the Malays, -they have no rice nor salt: they are very expert with the sompit, and -poison their darts with the ipoh, procured from the juice of various -trees, which are deadly poison; they handle the bow and spear with -wonderful dexterity, and destroy the largest and most powerful animals -by ingenious contrivances. They seldom suffer by beasts of prey, as -they are extremely sharpsighted, and as agile in ascending trees as -the monkeys. Their mode of destroying elephants, in order to procure -their ivory or their flesh, is most extraordinary and ingenious; small -parties of two and three lie in wait, when they perceive any elephants -ascend a hill, and as they descend again, (which they usually do at -a slow pace, plucking the branches as they move along,) while the -hind legs are lifted up, the Semang, cautiously approaching behind, -drives a sharp-pointed bambic or piece of weebong, which has been -previously well hardened in the fire, and touched with poison, into -the sole of the elephant's foot, with all his force, which effectually -lames the animal and most commonly causes him to fall, when the whole -party rush upon him with spears and sharp-pointed sticks, and soon -despatch him. The rhinoceros they obtain with even less difficulty. -This animal, which is of solitary habits, is found frequently in -marshy places, with its whole body immersed in mud, and part of the -head only projecting. The Malays call them bodak tapa, or the recluse -rhinoceros. Toward the close of the rainy season, they are said to bury -themselves in this manner in different places, and upon the dry weather -setting in, and from the powerful effects of a vertical sun, the mud -becomes hard and crusted, and the rhinoceros cannot effect its escape -without considerable difficulty and exertion; the Semangs then prepare -themselves with large quantities of combustible materials, with which -they quietly approach the animal, who is aroused from his revery by an -immense fire over him, which being kept well supplied with fresh fuel, -soon completes his destruction and renders him in a fit state to make a -meal of; the projecting horn on the snout is carefully preserved, being -supposed to be possessed of medical properties, and highly prized by -the Malays, to whom they barter it for tobacco and other articles. - -[h] On the language and literature of the Indu Chinese nations. (As. -Res. vol. 10, 202, 203.) - -[i] Herodotus, Lib. 3, s. 99. - -[j] Dr. Leyden, in his disquisition on the language and literature of -the East, makes mention of the negro-tribes as follows: "The Papuas, -termed by themselves Inglote, but by the Spaniards of the Philippine -islands, 'Nigritos del Monte,' from their colour of woolly hair, are -the second race of Aborigines in the Eastern isles, in several of -which they are still to be found, and in all which they seem to have -originally existed. Some of these divisions have formed small savage -states, and made some advances towards civilization; but the greater -part of them, even with the example of more civilized races before -their eyes, have betrayed no symptoms, either of a taste or capacity -for improvement, and continue in their primary state of nakedness, -sleeping on trees, devoid of houses or clothing, and subsisting on -the spontaneous products of the forest, or the precarious success -of their hunting and fishing. The Papuas, or Oriental negroes, seem -to be all divided into very small states, or rather societies, very -little connected with each other. Hence their language is broken into -a multitude of dialects, which, in process of time, by separation, -accident, and oral corruption, have nearly lost all resemblance. The -Malays of the peninsula consider the language of the blacks of the -hills as a mere jargon, which can only be compared to the chattering of -large birds, and the Papua dialects in many of the Eastern isles, are -generally viewed in the same light." See As. Res. vol. x. p. 218. - -A more simple and natural mode of bestowing names cannot well be -imagined, than that adopted by the Semangs: they are called after -particular trees: that is, if a child is born under or near a -cocoa-nut, or durian, or any particular tree in the forest, it is -named accordingly. They have chiefs among them, but all property -is in common; they worship the sun. Some years ago, I am told, the -bindahava or general of Quedah, sent two of these people for the -inspection of some of his English friends, at Penang; but shortly -after leaving Quedah, one of them, whose fears could not be appeased, -became very obstreperous, and endeavoured to upset the small boat, in -which they embarked; the Malays, therefore, with their usual apathy -and indifference about human life, put the poor creature to death, -and threw him overboard; the other arrived in safety, was kindly -treated, and received many presents of spades, hatchets, and other -implements, which he appeared to prize above every thing else. On his -return to Jan, he built himself a small hut, and began to cultivate -maize, sugar-cane, and yams, and it is said that he is still there, -and is a quiet inoffensive man. This man was, at the time of his visit -to Penang, according to report, about thirty years of age, four feet -nine inches in height: his hair was woolly and tufted, and of a glossy -jet-black; [k] his lips were thick, his nose flat, and belly very -protuberant, resembling exactly the natives of the Andaman islands. -The Semangs are found also at Tringand, on the eastern side of the -peninsula. I am informed by the Malays that the dialect of that tribe -is different from those of Quedah, but much the same as of those near -Malacca: they are not of such a jet-black, glossy appearance as the -Semangs from Quedah, nor as the Andamans. There is little doubt that -the degenerate inhabitants of the Andaman islands, in the bay of -Bengal, are descended from the same parent stock as the Semangs, and -it is extraordinary that they have preserved the same uniformity of -manners and habits, through such a series of ages. It will be seen by -a reference to the following specimen of the Semang language, that -there is a very material difference in many of the words collected by -Colonel M'Lunes, (late Malay translator at Penang,) from a Semang or -Jan, and published by Mr. Crawfurd, and those collected by Mr. Maingy, -the president of Province Wellesley, (government of Penang,) from the -Semang of Jooroo, and that the Andaman language bears no resemblance to -either. - -[k] "The East Insular Negro," says Crawford, "is a distinct variety -of the human species, and evidently a very inferior one. Their puny -stature and feeble frames cannot be ascribed to the poverty of their -food, or the hardships of their condition, for the lank-haired -races, living under circumstances equally precarious, have vigorous -constitutions. Some islands they enjoy almost exclusively to -themselves, yet they have in no instance ever risen above the most -abject state of barbarism. Wherever they are encountered by the fair -races, they are hunted down like wild animals of the forest, and driven -to the mountains and fastnesses, incapable of resistance." (Crawford's -Archipelago, vol., i. p. 26.) Sir Everard Home gives the following -description of a Papua negro, carried to England by Sir S. Raffles, -Hist. of Java, vol. ii., Appendix, p. 235: "The Papua differs from the -African negro in the following particulars: his skin is of a lighter -colour, the woolly hair grows in small tufts, and each hair has a -spiral twist. The forehead is higher, and the hind head is not so much -cut off. The nose projects more from the face, the upper lip is longer -and more prominent, the lower lip projects forward from the lower jaw -to such an extent that the chin forms no part of the face, the lower -part of which is formed by the mouth; the buttocks are so much lower -than the negro as to form a striking mark of distinction, but the calf -of the leg is as high as in the negro." - - -_Specimens of the Semang Language in two Dialects, and of the Andaman._ - - English. Semang Jooroo. Sensing Jan or Andaman. - Quedah. - - Earthquake Talila - Land Teh Karmon Teh Tatonguangu - Mountain Maidap Tabing Chubak - Plain Teh Haita - Sand Pasain - Island Paloo - Road Ha - Water Ho Bateao Migway - Sea Lawat Lant - River Sungei Sungai - Flood Pasing - Ebb Suit - Sun Milkatok Milkatok Allag - Moon Bulan Kachit Tabei - Stag Binting - Rain Ujar Oye - Fire Us Mona - Smoke E'el - Lightning Kilat - Thunder Kai - Wind Bioh - Cloud Miga - Dark Tin, Amea - Light Cha hai - Cold Gun, Amad Choma - Hot Pedee Mooloo - Black Belteng Belting Cheegheoga - Charcoal Auggu Mannying - Ashes Tebut Tapip - Cloth Budbud Panzah - Tree Kuing Chuck - Leaf Klee - Rattan Latei - Bough Teboa - Flower Bungei - Rice Bei Bayas - Salt Ceam Siyah - Milk Boo - Teeth Kabis - Life Gamas - Sick Myi - Fever Maa - Smallpox Champang - Man Tumbal Teunkal Camolon - Woman Mabei Badon - Virgin Kedah - Father Kan Ai - Mother Boh Mak - Brother Tobai Inak - Sister Wan-Ku-Man - Infant Wang Wanganeg - Husband Tee - Marriage Goon - Body Pee - Mine Eng - Flesh See - Bone Gehee Aieng Geetonggy - Blood Muhum Cochengohee - Head Kula Kuyi Kai Tabay - Face Mid - Ear Pal Anting Quaka - Mouth Tenut Ban - Tooth Lemum Yus Maboy - Tongue Litig - Belly Koad Cheong Napoy - Nipple Bou Chas - Hand Tong - Fingers Wantung Momay - Thumb Boaling - Hair Saa - Nail of the - hand Tiku Tong - Arm Belang Pilei - Foot Chan - Nail of the - foot Tiku Chan - Toe Wong Chan - Eye Meda Tabay - Nose Muck Neak Mellee - Tiger Chiai Taiyo - Hog Tuban, Badai - Dog Wan Ek - Deer San Rusak - Elephant Ta-Meen-da Gazah - Crow Eghail - Peacock Mah - Monkey Jayo - Buffalo Kebao - Rat Tikus - Cow Lemboh Lembok - Fowl Kawao - Duck Itek - Fish Ikam Nabohee - Snake Ekob - Bee Galu - Crab Kandun - Ant Kesub Les - Egg Mahu - Nest S'am - - -TEA. - -It is well known wherever tea is used, that there are two descriptions -of it, the _black_ and the _green_. In the account of the _domestic_ -commerce of China heretofore mentioned, it is shown that the _black_ -teas are brought from the province of _Tuh-keen_, (which lies at the -distance of about four hundred miles from Canton,) and the _green_ teas -from _Keang-nan_, (at the distance of about eight hundred miles.) The -hilly upland districts of these provinces are the native and favourite -soils of the tea-tree. It has not been supposed that these leading -kinds of tea, as an article of wide consumption, were the produce of -the same tree--but it has been and still is questioned, whether the -black and the green teas are the produce of plants _specifically_ -differing, or whether these differences of colour, flavour, &c., are -the result of the action of soil and sun on the same original tree. -Botanists have never been permitted to traverse these provinces, and -so decide this question; we believe however, that their opinion now -is, that there must and do exist differences sufficiently great to be -denominated _specific_, between the black-tea tree and the green-tea -tree. - -Beside this region producing the real tea of commerce, the greater -part of the Chinese provinces, and even Cochin-China and Japan, have -their tea-tree. The provincial tea of China is a widely different, and -very inferior article, though used by the poorer local population; -and sometimes when prices are high, it is used to adulterate, before -exportation, the _true_ tea. Perhaps the grape is the only plant whose -produce can be compared for singular diversity of flavour, &c., to -the tea of the tea-tree. The delicious "Woolung" differs as totally -from the common Souchong, as does the "Vin ordinaire" of the worst -districts, from the "Chambertin of Burgundy." - -We are not aware that there is any thing peculiar in the cultivation -of the tea-tree, except that, like the mulberry, it is kept down to a -sapling size, to secure a tenderer leaf, and to render its gathering -the more easy. It is said to be cultivated by small proprietors, who -sell the produce of their tea-groves to collectors, called at Canton -"teamen." These collectors leave Canton in the winter and spring with -their own, and perhaps a loaned capital, and after purchasing, curing -and packing, as much tea as their means will command, return with it -to Canton in the autumn. In the curing of tea, we are not aware that -any unwholesome methods are regularly resorted to--it is certain, -however, that _iron filings_ have sometimes been detected in black -teas, and that the colour of the green is sometimes attempted to be -heightened by a little "Prussian blue." It is perhaps from a few cases -of this kind, that prejudices have been excited against this wholesome, -temperate and social beverage. The green tea, when arrived at Canton, -is spoken of in the market as a "Sunglo," or a "Hyson" tea; the _black_ -tea is called a "Mohea," or an "Anki" tea. These names, derived from -the districts where the tea is grown, are used as general distinctions -of flavour and quality--the "Hyson" and "Mohea" being _sweeter_ and -more _valuable_--the "Sunglo" and "Anki," more _astringent_ and _less -esteemed_ teas. These names are however almost unknown to the consumers -in Europe and America. The names with which they are familiar, are -found under both these general distinctions in tea. The Hyson--Hyson -Skin--Young Hyson--Gunpowder and Imperial, all green, may be either -Sunglo or Hyson teas. These names, viz.: Hyson, Hyson Skin, &c., -merely designate the sortings, or siftings of the green leaf into its -different _sizes_, or _stages of growth_, but _plucked from the same -tree_. The Hyson, being the full-grown, mature leaf, has hitherto been -in much the greatest quantity; but the increasing demand for Young -Hyson, Gunpowder and Imperial--_younger leaves_--will no doubt be -followed by a corresponding effort to increase by a different time of -gathering, the proportion of these kinds of tea. - -There is not so much care taken in sorting the produce of the black-tea -tree. Its rougher, coarser leaf cannot be made to curl or roll when -dried, like that of the green-tea tree. In the spring, the first -sproutings of its twigs and tender leaves are gathered--these make -the _Pecco_ tea; they may be distinguished by the _white down_ which -covers them, as it does the spring shoots of other plants; hence the -name "_Pih-haou_," white down. In the course of the summer, there are -three other gatherings, each less valuable than the preceding, of the -leaves of the _black-tea_ tree. The "_Congo_," the great article for -the English market, is made from one of the _early_ gatherings, without -any mixture of inferior tea. The "_Campoi_," though not at the present -day a favourite article, or a very inferior one, has a large clean -leaf, and should be, as its name signifies, a "selected" tea. It is -not correct to say that the "Souchong" is an _inferior_ tea. Its name -merely designates it as a "_small-leafed_" tea; its different qualities -take in a wide range of flavour and value. Its first gatherings, from -favourable soils, are delicious teas; while the third crop, "Souchong," -is superior only to Bohea. The "_Pouchong_" is only a peculiarly -_packed_ tea; a clean unbroken black tea is chosen and tied up in -small papers to make Pouchong tea; its name signifies "_enveloped_," -or a "packed tea." The very inferior article called "_Bohea_," is at -the present time, rather a manufacture than a growth of tea. Its name -is corrupted from "Woo-E" the hills bearing the black tea. It is now -prepared either in the country, by mixing the refuse of the Souchong, -or with "Wa-ping," a neighbouring provincial tea, or at Canton by -adding farther, the tea which has been damaged on its passage from the -interior, and all the leaves within reach of collection, which have -been _once infused_ and dried again. - -The "teamen" are in the habit of affixing the same name, year after -year, to the tea which they bring to market; this name given to their -whole parcel, or to each of the qualities it may contain, is called -the "Chop" name. The foreign resident at Canton has little or no -intercourse with the "teamen." The "hong" merchants, or the merchants -trading through the hongs, are the medium of sale; they often, however, -purchase largely on their own account and judgment from the "teamen." - -The Dutch learned the use of tea at Bantam from the Chinese, and first -introduced it into Europe in 1610. It was not known in England until -after 1650; and from 1700 to 1710, there was imported less than eight -hundred thousand pounds; but from 1710 to 1810, it amounted to seven -hundred and fifty millions of pounds: between the years 1810 and 1828, -the total importation exceeded four hundred and twenty-seven millions, -being on an average of between twenty-three and twenty-four millions a -year. In the year 1831, the quantity amounted to twenty-six millions, -forty-three thousand, two hundred and twenty-three pounds; and in -the season of 1832-33, the export of the English Company was thirty -millions, thirty-six thousand, and four hundred pounds. The expiration -of the English East India Company's charter, and the ill success of -the Netherlands Trading Company, are now turning the commerce in this -valuable article into private hands. At the close of the company's -charter, (in 1834,) the consumption of tea in the United Kingdom, was -estimated at thirty-two millions of pounds. Under the free trade now -opening, it may be estimated at thirty-five millions. The consumption -of the rest of Europe, imported almost entirely through Hamburgh and -Holland, may be estimated at _five_ millions of pounds. The quantity -imported into Russia by land from China is not included. - -The _American_ trade to China commenced in 1784-5; and that season, -eight hundred and eighty thousand, one hundred pounds, were exported. -In the next season, six hundred and ninety-five thousand pounds were -taken. In 1786-7, five ships were engaged in the trade, and they -exported one million, one hundred and eighty-six thousand, eight -hundred and sixty pounds; but in the season of 1832-3, _fifty-nine_ -vessels exported thirteen millions, two hundred and fifty thousand, one -hundred and eighty-five pounds of the following descriptions:-- - - Catties. - - Bohea, 13,665 quarter chests of 50 catties each, making 683,255 - Souchg. and Pouchg. 39,538 chests 50 catties " 1,876,900 - H. Skin and Tonkay, 36,608 " 52 " " 1,903,616 - Young Hyson, 51,363 " 70 " " 3,595,410 - Gunpowder and Imp. 12,583 " 83 " " 1,041,899 - Hyson, 14,248 " 49 " " 710,972 - Pecco, 2,563 " 49 " " 125,587 - ---------- - Catties, 9,937,639 - Equal to pounds, 13,250,185 - -The consumption of the United States, and the ports supplied from the -commerce of the United States, may be estimated for 1834, at _fifteen_ -millions of pounds. - -We have therefore a total annual consumption, on this side of the -Cape of Good Hope, of this great staple of China, of FIFTY-FIVE -millions of pounds. This amount will in a few years be increased to -sixty millions. The quantity of tea exported by the Dutch cannot be -accurately estimated. Some seasons there are five or six ships engaged -in the trade, and in other seasons there are none: when there is any -deficiency it has been supplied by the Americans. The quantity exported -to British India averages about _two_ millions, three hundred thousand -pounds annually. The export by vessels of other nations is very -inconsiderable. - -The Portuguese, notwithstanding their direct, early, and intimate -connexion with China, neglected to import it, being very indifferent -to its use; they, as well as the Spaniards, place but little value on -it even to this day; coffee and chocolate being preferred in Spain and -Portugal, as well as in South America, Mexico, Cuba and Porto Rico, -with the addition of the Yerba de Paraguay or Mate, the favourite -beverage of the Spaniards of La Plata, Paraguay, Chili, and other parts -of South America. - - -_Comparative Estimate of the principal Exports from Canton to the -United States._ - - ------------------------+---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - | 1822-23.| 1823-24.| 1824-25.| 1825-26.| 1826-27. - | | | | | - ------------------------+---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Bohea, one fourth chests| 10,018| 2,413| 5,795| 3,340| 1,095 - Souchong & Pouchong | 37,828| 29,296| 31,566| 24,527| 27,405 - Hyson skin & Tonkay | 37,134| 32,426| 56,788| 45,299| 29,395 - Young hyson | 22,165| 31,217| 39,303| 45,461| 28,487 - Gunpowder & imperial | 4,899| 5,587| 6,817| 8,019| 5,992 - Hyson | 14,703| 11,562| 14,501| 19,072| 8,915 - Pecco | 175| 315| 215| 368| 377 - +---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Total chests | 127,022| 112,816| 154,985| 146,086| 101,666 - +---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Cassia, peculs | 7,773| 6,459| 8,624| 9,023| 4,035 - _Silks_--Crape, pieces | 91,447| 55,616| 103,236| 46,703| 29,615 - " Crape shawls | 156,631| 142,425| 220,635| 264,630| 104,060 - " Crape scarfs | 45,264| 8,683| 8,100| 15,800| 4,160 - " Crape dresses | 32,457| 23,298| 46,500| 58,050| 32,940 - " Florentines | 4,295| 3,846| 2,879| 1,025| 750 - " Sarsnets | 46,264| 45,384| 64,231| 62,662| 20,474 - " Senshaws | 24,145| 12,302| 10,919| 7,740| 9,485 - " Pongees | 5,649| 2,850| 2,967| 2,145| 5,369 - " Handkerchiefs | 92,338| 37,877| 80,979| 90,985| 42,635 - " Satins | 8,150| 5,614| 7,384| 7,880| 10,881 - " Levantines | 10,944| 8,645| 9,600| 6,280| 7,657 - " Camlets | -- |-- | -- | -- | 1,477 - " Droguets | -- |-- | -- | -- | 425 - Sewing silk, peculs | 75| 58| 75| 41| 18 - Raw silk | -- |-- | -- | -- | 210 - Nankeens, pieces |1,070,707| 259,506| 765,000| 664,000| 267,405 - | | | | | - | $ | $ | $ | $ | $ - Total value $|6,760,582|5,006,243|7,716,444|7,650,938|3,806,708 - - ------------------------+---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - | 1827-28.| 1828-29.| 1829-30.| 1830-31.| 1831-32 - | | | | | - ------------------------+---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Bohea, one fourth chests| 1,100| 901| 1,904| 3,592| 12,182 - Souchong & Pouchong | 24,775| 17,216| 25,428| 17,514| 39,596 - Hyson skin & Tonkay | 33,926| 18,097| 68,134| 5,447| 20,883 - Young hyson | 31,085| 26,192| 29,476| 25,528| 40,065 - Gunpowder & imperial | 6,614| 4,888| 6,289| 3,953| 9,117 - Hyson | 14,963| 11,264| 11,197| 7,147| 9,346 - Pecco | -- | 191| 366| 205| 517 - +---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Total chests | 112,463| 78,749| 102,794| 63,386| 131,706 - +---------+---------+---------+---------+--------- - Cassia, peculs | 7,209| 2,916| 2,888| 1,828| 3,541 - _Silks_--Crape, pieces | 69,028| 24,605| 9,660| 5,881| 9,507 - " Crape shawls | | | | | 77,570 - " Crape scarfs | 57,293| 101,425| 87,304| 102,162| - " Crape dresses | | | | | - " Florentines | 2,135| 850| 400| -- | -- - " Sarsnets | 23,489| 17,295| 25,439| 53,385| 27,455 - " Senshaws | 14,957| 11,340| 10,113| 25,810| 22,292 - " Pongees | 13,530| 16,087| 10,491| 41,439| 44,578 - " Handkerchiefs | 76,569| 24,314| 14,662| 14,189| 23,157 - " Satins | 18,606| 4,836| 5,154| 8,985| 6,965 - " Levantines | 13,497| 7,382| 4,356| 6,155| 13,643 - " Camlets | 2,620| 2,465| 310| 990| 3,500 - " Droguets | -- | -- | -- | -- | -- - Sewing silk, peculs | 184| 144| 164| 354| 350 - Raw silk | 157| 68| 230| 285| 109 - Nankeens, pieces | 524,500| 392,900| 305,568| 118,774| 122,285 - | | | | | - | $ | $ | $ | $ | $ - Total value $|5,318,966|3,337,480|3,629,722|3,356,551|5,577,731 - - ------------------------+---------+-------- - | 1832-33.| Catties - | | each. - ------------------------+---------+-------- - Bohea, one fourth chests| 13,665| 50 - Souchong & Pouchong | 39,538| 50 - Hyson skin & Tonkay | 36,608| 52 - Young hyson | 51,363| 70 - Gunpowder & imperial | 12,553| 83 - Hyson | 14,248| 49 - Pecco | 2,563| 49 - +---------+-------- - Total chests | 170,538| - +---------+-------- - Cassia, peculs | 7,428| - _Silks_--Crape, pieces | 4,559| - " Crape shawls | 77,876| - " Crape scarfs | -- | - " Crape dresses | | - " Florentines | -- | - " Sarsnets | 22,289| - " Senshaws | 13,172| - " Pongees | 48,741| - " Handkerchiefs | 27,274| - " Satins | 7,201| - " Levantines | 6,351| - " Camlets | 1,091| - " Droguets | -- | - Sewing silk, peculs | 72| - Raw silk | 144| - Nankeens, pieces | 31,500| - | | - | $ | - Total value $|6,691,412| - - _Average Prices for Teas._ - - -------------+--------+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+---- - |1822-23.|1823|1824|1825|1826|1827|1828|1829|1830|1831|1832 - | |-24.|-25.|-26.|-27.|-28.|-29.|-30.|-31.|-32.|-33. - +--------+----+----+--- +----+----+----+----+----+----+---- - | | | | | | | | | | | - Bohea tea | 11 | -- | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 12 | 11 | 11 - Souchong | 22 | -- | 25 | 20 | 18 | 18 | 17 | 17 | 16 | 18 | 20 - Pouchong | -- | -- | -- | -- | 18 | 18 | 17 | 24 | 20 | 20 | 25 - Hyson skin | 21 | -- | 28 | 27 | 18 | 21 | 21 | 18 | 18 | 24 | 27 - Tonkay | -- | -- | -- | -- | 18 | 23 | 24 | 22 | 20 | 24 | 30 - Young hyson | 33 | -- | 40 | 40 | 25 | 33 | 30 | 32 | 30 | 44 | 47 - Gunpowder & | | | | | | | | | | | - imperial | 55 | -- | 50 | 50 | 55 | 50 | 45 | 48 | 49 | 56 | 58 - Hyson | 40 | -- | 40 | 45 | 40 | 40 | 40 | 42 | 42 | 46 | 49 - Pecco | 55 | -- | 50 | 60 | 60 | 60 | 60 | 60 | 80 | 50 | 55 - - _Export of Teas for Account of the English Company, - to London, season 1832-1833._ - - Bohea Peculs 52,844 Cost Tales 837,556 - Congo 139,640 " 3,315,811 - Souchong 2,321 " 86,482 - Tonkay 23,103 " 631,866 - Hyson 6,579 " 342,947 - Hyson Skin 786 " 21,450 - ------- - 225,273 - 133-1/3 - ---------- - Pounds[A] 30,036,400 {on account of the English Company, - { exported during the season 1832-33 - 13,250,185 by vessels of the United States. - ---------- - 43,286,585 {Pounds of tea exported by American - { and English vessels, from Canton, - { in the season 1832-1833. - -[A] The Company's agents, in Canton, do not give the number of chests -in their returns of teas shipped. - -_Annual Revenue obtained by the Government of Siam from Farms and -Duties._ - - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Names. |Annual quantity.|Prices in ticals. |Duties. |Revenues. - ----------------+----------------+------------------+----------+--------- - Paddy and rice |1,696,424 coyans| | | Ticals. - | of 23 picul |1st sort 16 ticals|} | - " " | " " |2d " 14 " |} | 862,358 - " " | " " |3d " 12 " |} | - Orchards | 68,235 in No. | | | 545,880 - Vegetables | 4,251 | | | 17,800 - Samsoo or spirit| | | | - shops | Bang-kok | | | 104,900 - " " | Sieuthaja | | | 16,000 - " " | Bangxang | | | 8,000 - " " | Suraburi | | | 4,000 - " " | Krungtaphan | | | 4,000 - Bazars | Bang-kok | | | 39,200 - " | Sieuthaja | | | 12,800 - " | Suraburi | | | 1,600 - " | Bangxang | | | 1,600 - Duty on floating| | | | - houses | | | | 36,000 - Chinese gambling| | | | 64,000 - Siamese, ditto | | | | 58,000 - Teak wood | 127,000 trees | | | 56,000 - Sapan wood | 200,000 piculs |1st sort 31/2 to 3 |} | - " " | " " |2d " 21/2 to 2 |} | 84,000 - " " | " " |3d " 11/2 to 1 |} | - Cocoanut oil | 600,000 " | 71/2 to 8 |11/4 | 56,000 - | | |to 11/2 | - Sugar, 1st | 10,000 " | 81/2 to 9 } | | - " 2d | 60,000 " | 7 to 71/2 } | | - " 3d | 20,000 " | 6 to 61/2 } |11/2 | 40,000 - " black | 1,000 " | 21/2 to 3 } | | - " candy | 5,000 " | 16 to 17 } |1/2 | - Jaggery | 150,000 jars | 18 tcls. p. 100 | | - | | jrs.|2 tcls | 8,000 - Salt | 8,000 coyans | 21/2 to 3 |6 | 32,000 - Pepper | 38,000 piculs | 10 to 11 |11/2 | 23,200 - Bastard | | | | - cardamums | 4,000 " | 32 to 40 |6 tcls | 16,000 - Cardamums | 1st. 100 " | 360 to 380 } | " | - " | 2d. 150 " | 280 to 300 } |16 " | 5,400 - " | 3d. 300 " | 200 to 220 } | " | - Sticlac | 8,000 " | 12 13 14 |11/4 | 9,500 - Tin | 1,200 " | 24 26 28 |3 tcls | 18,200 - Iron | 20,000 " | 4 5 6 | " | 54,000 - Ivory | 300 " | 160 170 180 |12 ditto | 2,500 - Gamboge | 1st 50 to 60 | 75 to 80 } | | - " | 2d 150 " | 55 to 60 } |6 ditto | 1,200 - " | 3d 50 " | 40 to 45 } | | - Rhinoceros horns| 50 to 60 | 800 per picul |32 per | - | | | picul| 1,600 - Benjamin | 100 " | 50 to 55 | | 400 - Bird's-nests } | | 1st srt. 10,000} | | - " " } | 10 to 12 | 2d " 6,000} |6 ticals | 32,000 - " " } | | 3d " 4,000} | | - Young deer's | | | | - horns | 26,000 pairs | 11/2 to 2 |10 per 100| 3,600 - Old, ditto, | | | | - ditto |200 piculs | 8 to 9 per pecul |1/2 | - - -------------+----------------------+-----------------+---------+-------- - Names | Annual quantity |Prices in ticals | Duties |Revenues. - -------------+----------------------+-----------------+---------+-------- - Buffalo, | | | | - ditto| 200 piculs |3 to 4 per picul |1/4 | Ticals. - Deers' nerves| 200 " |16 to 20 | 11/2 | - Rhinoceros | | | | - skins| 200 " |7 to 8 |1/2 | 800 - Tigers' bones| 50 to 60 |50 to 60 | 3 ticals| - Buffalo hides| 500 " |8 to 10 |1/2 | - Deers' ditto | 100,000 " |20, 25, and 30 | 3 ticals| 1,600 - White dried | | | | - fish | 4,000 " |8 to 9 |1/2 | - Black, ditto | 15,000 " |7 to 8 |1/2 | 18,000 - Small dried | | | | - fish | 60,000 " |3 to 4 |1/4 | - Dried shrimps| 10,000 " |30 to 35 | 3 " | 4,600 - Balachang | 15,000 coyans |50 to 60 | 12 " | 8,000 - Wood oil | 15,000 piculs |3 to 5 |1/2 | 5,600 - Pitch | 10,000 " |3 to 4 |1/2 | 6,000 - Torches | 200,000 bundles |5 ticals per 100 |1/2 | 5,600 - Rattans | 200,000 " |4 " " |1/2 | 14,000 - Firewood | | | | - Wooden posts |1st. 500 to 600 in No.|1 per 4 ticals } | 10 per | - | | | 100| 8,000 - " " |2d. 3,000 " |1 per 2 do. } | 5 " | - " " |3d. 200,000 " |100 per 25 30 } | " " | - | | 40 } | 10 " | 8,000 - Bamboos |600,000,000 in No. |3 ticals per 100 | 15 | - | | | 100| 3,000 - Attaps |95,000,000,000 " |3 ticals per 1000| 20 " | 1,600 - Rose wood |200,000 " |342 per picul | 10 " | - Bark |200,000 bundles |100 per 6 ticals | | 1,600 - - Ticals. - Provinces under the superintendance of the crommahathai, - or 1st minister 32,000 - Ditto ditto ditto of the croomkallahom, - or 2d ditto 24,000 - Ditto ditto ditto of the crommatha, - or 3d ditto 12,000 - Revenue of Justice under the Crammamuang 4,800 - " of the Tribunal 8,000 - " derived from the gold in the province called Bangtaphan, - 180 ticals weight of gold. - " " " in the province called Pipri - 60 ticals weight of gold. - Tribute which the Malays pay for gold mines, 216 ticals weight of gold. - - -EXPENDITURE. - - Salaries which the king pays to the government officers - annually 618,800 - Alms to the Talapoins and the poor 87,600 - Monthly allowances to the sons of the late and present kings, - and the second king 29,000 - Annual salaries of all the princes employed, and the minors 47,400 - Annual pay of the Talapoins 18,240 - -_Statement of Annual Consumption and Value of Indian Opium in China, -for the following Seasons_:-- - - --------+---------------------------------------------+ - | Patna and Benares. | - | | - |Chests. Price. Value. | - Seasons.| | | | | | - | | Lowest.|Highest.|Average.| | - --------+-------+--------+--------+--------+----------+ - 1816-17 | 2610 | 1080 | 1320 | 1200 |3,132,000 | - 1817-18 | 2530 | 1200 | 1330 | 1265 |3,200,450 | - 1818-19 | 3050 | 800 | 1200 | 1000 |3,050,000 | - 1819-20 | 2970 | 1150 | 1320 | 1235 |3,667,950 | - 1820-21 | 3050 | 1300 | 2500 | 1900 |5,795,000 | - 1821-22 | 2910 | 1650 | 2500 | 2075 |6,038,250 | - 1822-23 | 1822 | 1180 | 2550 | 1552 |2,828,930 | - 1823-24 | 2910 | 1100 | 1900 | 1600 |4,656,000 | - 1824-25 | 2655 | 900 | 1450 | 1175 |3,119,625 | - 1825-26 | 3442 | 800 | 1150 | 913 |3,141,755 | - 1826-27 | 3661 | 800 | 1250 | 1002 |3,668,565 | - 1827-28 | 5134 | 815 | 1220 | 998 |5,125,155 | - 1828-29 | 5965 | 880 | 1100 | 940 |5,604,235 | - 1829-30 | 7143 | 805 | 1000 | 860 |6,149,577 | - 1830-31 | 6660 | 790 | 1050 | 870 |5,790,204 | - 1831-32 | 6060 | | | 953 |4,234,815 | - 1832-33 | 6931 | | | 798 |4,459,170 | - - -------------------------------------------+------------------- - Malva. | Total. - | - Chests. Price. Value. |Chests. Value. - | | | | | | - |Lowest.|Highest.|Average.| | | - ------ +--------+--------+---------+-------+------------------- - 600 | 800 | 950 | 875 | 525,000| 3210 | 3,657,000 - 1150 | 600 | 800 | 612 | 703,800| 3680 | 3,904,250 - 1530 | 600 | 850 | 725 |1,109,250| 4580 | 4,159,250 - 1630 | 950 | 1400 | 1175 |1,915,250| 4600 | 5,583,200 - 1720 | 1230 | 1800 | 1515 |2,605,800| 4770 | 8,400,800 - 1718 | 1050 | 1600 | 1325 |2,276,350| 4628 | 8,314,600 - 4000 | 1080 | 1500 | 1290 |5,160,000| 5822 | 7,988,930 - 4172 | 800 | 1050 | 925 |3,859,100| 7082 | 8,515,100 - 6000 | 550 | 950 | 750 |4,500,000| 8655 | 7,619,625 - 6179 | 560 | 850 | 723 |4,466,450| 9621 | 7,608,205 - 6308 | 860 | 1060 | 942 |5,941,520| 9969 | 9,610,085 - 4401 | 950 | 1420 | 1204 |5,299,920| 9535 | 10,425,075 - 7771 | 750 | 1250 | 968 |6,928,880| 13132 | 12,533,115 - 6857 | 740 | 1030 | 862 |5,907,580| 14000 | 12,057,157 - 12100 | 520 | 760 | 588 |7,114,059| 18760 | 12,904,263 - 8265 | | | 704 |5,818,574| 14225 | 11,501,584 - 14454 | | | 570 |8,258,155| 21385 | 13,757,290 - -_Average Consumption of fifteen years, ending 31st March, 1832._ - - Catties. - Chests of Patna and Benares, 19,954 chests, weighing 1,995,400 - Or candareens of extract of 50 touch 1,596,320,000 - Chests of Malva 24,600 weighing catties 2,460,000 - Or candareens of extract of 75 touch 2,952,000,000 - - Total chests. - 44,554. - - Total candareens of extract. - 45,466,320,000. - - Number of smokers, at 3 17-40 candareens per day. - 4,152,716. - - -_Tumbah Tuah's Letter of Thanks to Captain Geisinger, Bencoolen, August -31st, 1832._ - -The commander of the United States ship-of-war Peacock, during our -short stay at Bencoolen, presented one of the principal rajahs of that -place some American tobacco, and the following letter of thanks was -sent, written in the Malayan character, which, being translated into -English, is as follows:-- - - "BY THE MERCY OF GOD: - -"This friendly epistle is the dictate of a heart very white, and a face -very clean, written under a sense of the greatest respect and most -exalted love, permanent and unchangeable as the courses of the sun and -moon; this is to say from me--a gentleman--Tumbah Tuah of Bencoolen, -the Paseer Marlborough. Now may God the Holy and Almighty cause this to -arrive before the face of his glorious excellency, Colonel Geisinger, -the head man who commands in the American ship-of-war, which is now at -anchor off Rat island, in the harbour of Bencoolen. - -"Furthermore, after this, the object of this letter is to acknowledge -the present of American tobacco sent to me, and which I have duly -received through the love of Knoerle the resident of Bencoolen; this is -the message [present] of your lordship to me rajah, &c., [two names.] -Wherefore I return praise to God, and my expressions of gratitude--thus -much. - -"Besides this, I can only pray the Lord your God to grant you peace and -long life. Amen. - - "The gentleman, - "TUMBAH TUAH. - -"Bencoolen, the 31st day of the month of August in the year 1832." - -The superscription was as follows:-- - -"Presenting itself before the visage of his Excellency Colonel -Geisinger, commanding the American ship-of-war." - - -_Translation of a Letter from the Sultan of Muscat to the President of -the United States._ - - "IN THE NAME OF GOD, AMEN. - -"To the most high and mighty Andrew Jackson, President of the United -States of America, whose name shines with so much splendour throughout -the world. I pray most sincerely that on the receipt of this letter -it may find his Highness, the President of the United States, in high -health, and that his happiness may be constantly on the increase. On -a most fortunate day and at a happy hour, I had the honour to receive -your Highness's letter, every word of which is clear and distinct as -the sun at noonday, and every letter shone forth as brilliantly as -the stars in the heavens. Your Highness's letter was received by your -faithful and highly honourable representative and ambassador Edmund -Roberts, who made me supremely happy in explaining the object of his -mission, and I have complied in every respect with the wishes of -your honourable ambassador, in concluding a treaty of friendship and -commerce between our respective countries, which shall be faithfully -observed by myself and my successors, as long as the world endures. -And his Highness may depend that all American vessels resorting to -the ports within my dominions, shall know no difference, in point of -good treatment, between my country and that of his own most happy and -fortunate country, where felicity ever dwells. I most fervently hope -that his Highness the President may ever consider me as his firm and -true friend, and that I will ever hold the President of the United -States very near and dear to my heart, and my friendship shall never -know any diminution, but shall continue to increase till time is no -more. I offer, most sincerely and truly, to his Highness the President, -my entire and devoted services, to execute any wishes the President -may have within my dominions, or within any ports or places wherein I -possess the slightest influence. - - "_This_ is from your most beloved friend, - "SYEED BIN SULTAN. - -"Written on the twenty-second day of the Moon, Jamada Alawel, in the -year Alhajira 1249,[A] at the Royal Palace in the city of Muscat. - -[A] Corresponding to seventh of October, 1833. - -"This letter is to have the address of being presented to the most high -and mighty Andrew Jackson, President of the United States of America, -whose name shines with so much brilliancy throughout the world." - - - _Translation of the "Chinese Chop," relative to the United States' - Sloop-of-war Peacock, D. Geisinger, Commander, and sent to the - Hong-Merchants at Canton._ - - "Chung, Imperial Commissioner at the Port of Canton, Tsunhwan of - Jeho, &c., &c., hereby issues an order to the Hong-Merchants:-- - -"The Custom officers at Macao have reported, saying: On the sixteenth -day of the present Moon, [November ninth, 1832,] the pilot, Leu Kefang -reported, that on the sixteenth, the American cruiser Geisinger[A] -came and anchored off the Nine islands; that immediately he went and -inquired why he came and anchored, and that the captain of the said -ship replied, that he sailed from his own country to Manila, and a gale -having driven him hither, he had anchored for a short time; but that -when the wind should become fair he would set sail and depart. Now on -examination it is ascertained that there are in the ship two hundred -foreign seamen, twenty-four cannon, one hundred muskets, one hundred -swords, nine hundred catties of powder, and nine hundred balls. Uniting -these circumstances they are forthwith reported. Having obtained this -information, we ordered the pilots to keep a strict watch and guard -(against the ship.) Moreover, as it is right, we send up this report. - -[A] The Chinese always omit the name of the ship, and insert the name -of the captain. - -"_This_ coming before me, the hoppo, and having ascertained that the -said cruiser is not a merchant-ship, nor a convoy, and that she has -on board an unusual number of seamen, cannon and weapons, she is -not allowed, under any pretext, to anchor, and create disturbances. -Wherefore, _Let her be driven away_. And let the "hong-merchants," on -receiving this order, act in obedience thereto, and enjoin it upon -the said nation's Tae-pan,[B] that he order and compel the said ship -to depart and return home. He is not allowed to frame excuses, linger -about, and create disturbances, and so involve offences, that would -be examined into and punished. Let the day fixed for her departure be -reported. _Haste! haste!_ A special order. - -[B] Consul. - - "TAOU KWANG. - -"Twelfth year, twenty-second day of the ninth intercalary moon."[C] - -[C] November sixteenth, 1832. - -NOTE.--The truth of the matter is, the pilot, who came in the -mandarin-boat, was informed, that the Peacock was on a cruise and last -from Manila, and came there for provisions, and when she was supplied, -and otherwise ready, she would proceed to sea. But nothing was said to -him that she was driven there in a gale of wind from Manila. An order -was issued commanding the Peacock to quit the waters of China, but no -notice was taken of it, for the ship remained at Linting for six weeks -after. So inefficient is the _navy_ of China in the present day, that -the Peacock alone could destroy the whole "_imperial fleet_," and have -passed up to Canton and back with a _leading wind_, without receiving -any material injury from the forts, as their guns are firmly imbedded -in stone and mortar, and they can only be fired in one direction. - - -THE END. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber's Note - - -Duplicate headings have been removed. - -The following apparent printing errors have been corrected: - -p. 9 "Cavite" changed to "Cavite" - -p. 9 "Cavite" changed to "Cavite" - -p. 10 "Hue" changed to "Hue" - -p. 20 "ever house" changed to "every house" - -p. 31 "Malborough" changed to "Marlborough" - -p. 35 "who who were busily" changed to "who were busily" - -p. 40 "'Some" changed to ""Some" - -p. 44 "seeming delight" changed to "seeming delight." - -p. 47 "American consul," changed to "American consul." - -p. 51 "CAVITE" changed to "CAVITE" - -p. 57 "CAVITE" changed to "CAVITE" - -p. 65 "peloto?" changed to "peloto?"" - -p. 85 "if she" changed to ""if she" - -p. 96 ""it is a villa" changed to "it is a villa" - -p. 101 "of taxes." changed to "of taxes."" - -p. 104 "Nan-hae-heen che-heen" changed to "Nan-hae-heen-che-heen" - -p. 132 "crosing" changed to "crossing" - -p. 133 "POPULATION" changed to "POPULATION." - -p. 134 "the earth" changed to "the earth." - -p. 138 "longtitude" changed to "longitude" - -p. 142 "grand son" changed to "grandson" - -p. 144 "1618" changed to "1681" - -p. 147 "twenty six" changed to "twenty-six" - -p. 169 "mandarin, ducks" changed to "mandarin ducks" - -p. 178 "I am" changed to ""I am" - -p. 178 "at Hue?" changed to "at Hue?"" - -p. 181 "navigation,'" changed to "navigation,"" - -pp. 189 and 191 "HUE" changed to "HUE" - -p. 190 "confectionary" changed to "confectionary." - -p. 193 "before hey" changed to "before they" - -p. 198 "Hitherto all" changed to ""Hitherto all" - -p. 198 "places." changed to "places."" - -p. 200 ""_liberal treatment_?"" changed to "'_liberal treatment_?'"" - -p. 203 "I have now" changed to ""I have now" - -p. 213 "MANDARINES'" changed to "MANDARINS'" - -p. 216 "to Hue" changed to "to Hue" - -p. 216 "can.'" changed to "can."" - -p. 224 "peacocks,," changed to "peacocks," - -p. 227 "STRENTH" changed to "STRENGTH" - -p. 266 "wh take" changed to "who take" - -p. 273 "the iron" changed to "the iron." - -p. 274 "Chinese" changed to "Chinese." - -p. 282 "case, i" changed to "case, is" - -p. 282 "less tha" changed to "less than" - -p. 290 "cocks' with horses bodies" changed to "cocks with horses' -bodies" - -p. 296 "orginally" changed to "originally" - -p. 298 "Phanlcon" changed to "Phaulcon" (two instances) - -p. 302 "third rank)" changed to "third rank,)" - -p. 302 "rank,) &c," changed to "rank,) &c.," - -p. 308 "witnesses" changed to "witnesses." - -p. 313 "a star," changed to "a star." - -p. 317 "2d do 6,000." changed to "2d do. 6,000." - -p. 318 "32 to 40 do" changed to "32 to 40 do." - -p. 326 "expenses of the prahu" changed to "expenses of the prahu" - -p. 327 "midnight" changed to "midnight." - -p. 341 "region" changed to "region." - -p. 368 "curiases" changed to "cuirasses" - -p. 371 "pla as" changed to "place was" - -p. 374 "Guardafui,may" changed to "Guardafui, may" - -p. 378 "us,speaking" changed to "us, speaking" - -p. 390 "Wynberb" changed to "Wynberg" - -p. 398 "longtitude" changed to "longitude" - -p. 408 "Sakci" changed to "Sakei" - -p. 409 "Gantang,and" changed to "Gantang, and" - -p. 409 "extraordinary,the" changed to "extraordinary, the" - -p. 417 (note) "190, 191."" changed to "190, 191." - -p. 418 (note) "202, 203." changed to "202, 203.)" - -p. 419 "vol. ii" changed to "vol. ii." - -p. 431 (note) "the captain" changed to "the captain." - - -Many archaic, inconsistent, and variant spellings, as well as -inconsistent hyphenation, have not been changed. The following possible -mistakes have also been left as printed: - -p. 97 the passage beginning "says: "The gates" has no ending quotation -mark. The quotation continues to the words "and "Odyssey."". - -p. 136 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -On p. 204, there are reference to 1833 as both the fifty-sixth and -fifty-seventh year of independence. - -p. 279 they but most of them - -p. 372 "Bissao" - -p. 381 "the spot where there domicil is" - -p. 387 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 389 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 400 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 403 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 423 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 424 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 428 the values in the table are inconsistent. - -p. 406 "Free casts" - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Embassy to the Eastern Courts of -Cochin-China, Siam, and Muscat, by Edmund Roberts - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK EMBASSY TO THE EASTERN COURTS *** - -***** This file should be named 44075.txt or 44075.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/4/0/7/44075/ - -Produced by Henry Flower and the Online Distributed -Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was -produced from images generously made available by The -Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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