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diff --git a/43909-8.txt b/43909-0.txt index 1bdacbe..3518c8b 100644 --- a/43909-8.txt +++ b/43909-0.txt @@ -1,36 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sometub's Cruise on the C. & O. Canal, by -John Pryor Cowan - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Sometub's Cruise on the C. & O. Canal - The narrative of a motorboat vacation in the heart of Maryland - -Author: John Pryor Cowan - -Release Date: October 8, 2013 [EBook #43909] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOMETUB'S CRUISE ON THE C&O CANAL *** - - - - -Produced by Emmy and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43909 *** [Transcriber's Note: As this is a narrative, all spelling errors were retained as printed.] @@ -140,7 +108,7 @@ claim for it, and more, too! with the Brooks plan by constructing a bulkhead which enclosed five feet of the bow. This left a 10-foot cockpit, over which was erected a portable canopy top. Curtains that hung on the sides of the canopy made -a snug cabin 10 × 3½ feet. For motive power we use an Evinrude motor. +a snug cabin 10 × 3½ feet. For motive power we use an Evinrude motor. By the way, it is one of those coffee mill affairs that you screw on the stern of a skiff or rowboat. "Sometub" was designed for this very sort of equipment and the theory worked out beautifully--until the @@ -1562,360 +1530,4 @@ the footsteps of the greatest American. End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sometub's Cruise on the C. & O. Canal, by John Pryor Cowan -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOMETUB'S CRUISE ON THE C&O CANAL *** - -***** This file should be named 43909-8.txt or 43909-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/9/0/43909/ - -Produced by Emmy and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Canal, by John P. Cowan. @@ -125,46 +125,7 @@ line-height:0.85em; </style> </head> <body> - - -<pre> - -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sometub's Cruise on the C. & O. Canal, by -John Pryor Cowan - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Sometub's Cruise on the C. & O. Canal - The narrative of a motorboat vacation in the heart of Maryland - -Author: John Pryor Cowan - -Release Date: October 8, 2013 [EBook #43909] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOMETUB'S CRUISE ON THE C&O CANAL *** - - - - -Produced by Emmy and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43909 ***</div> <p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p> @@ -335,7 +296,7 @@ beam. We took liberties with the Brooks plan by constructing a bulkhead which enclosed five feet of the bow. This left a 10-foot cockpit, over which was erected a portable canopy top. Curtains that hung on the sides -of the canopy made a snug cabin 10 × 3½ feet. For motive +of the canopy made a snug cabin 10 × 3½ feet. For motive power we use an Evinrude motor. By the way, it is one of those coffee mill affairs that you screw on the stern of a skiff or rowboat. "Sometub" was designed for this @@ -2153,382 +2114,6 @@ the footsteps of the greatest American.</p> <img src="images/i044.png" width="158" height="136" alt="drawing of scroll and quill pen" /> </div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sometub's Cruise on the C. & O. Canal, by -John Pryor Cowan - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOMETUB'S CRUISE ON THE C&O CANAL *** - -***** This file should be named 43909-h.htm or 43909-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/9/0/43909/ - -Produced by Emmy and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. - - -</pre> - +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43909 ***</div> </body> </html> diff --git a/43909.txt b/43909.txt deleted file mode 100644 index b2e0bf6..0000000 --- a/43909.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,1921 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Sometub's Cruise on the C. & O. Canal, by -John Pryor Cowan - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Sometub's Cruise on the C. & O. Canal - The narrative of a motorboat vacation in the heart of Maryland - -Author: John Pryor Cowan - -Release Date: October 8, 2013 [EBook #43909] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SOMETUB'S CRUISE ON THE C&O CANAL *** - - - - -Produced by Emmy and the Online Distributed Proofreading -Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from -images generously made available by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -[Transcriber's Note: As this is a narrative, all spelling errors were -retained as printed.] - - - -SOMETUB'S CRUISE ON THE C. & O. CANAL - -[Illustration] - - _The Narrative of a Motorboat - Vacation in the Heart - of Maryland_ - -[Illustration] - - BY - JOHN P. COWAN - 1916 - - _Copyright, 1916, by John P. Cowan_ - - - - -[Illustration] - - _This Edition is Limited to - 200 Copies of Which This - is No._ - -[Illustration] - - -[Illustration] - - -THIS is a story of the initial cruise of "Sometub"--a narrative of the -voyage of the newest type boat on America's oldest improved waterway. -We exalted 30 cent gasoline and eased our conscience by following in -the patriotic footsteps of George Washington. - -Amid nature's most magnificent scenery we linked the romance of -yesterday with the humdrum of the workaday present. We established a -new maxim, namely: To avoid the beaten path take the towpath! - -We enjoyed to the superlative degree the rare privilege of "Seeing -America First," because we saw it as the first American saw it. - - J. P. C. - - Pittsburgh, Pa., - December 7th, 1916. - -[Illustration: Sunlight Vista on the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal] - - - - -I. - - -[Illustration] - -THE cruise of the "Sometub" began at Oakmont on the Allegheny river -in Pennsylvania and ended in Rock Creek in the shadow of the national -capitol in the District of Columbia. In a total distance of 347 -miles the little craft traversed six navigable waterways. Of course, -there was a portage of 150 miles, but this was accomplished without -inconvenience and provided a seasonable period to re-provision the -boat. Moreover, the 150-mile trip overland demonstrated the advantage -of a portable cruiser--of which "Sometub" has the distinction of being -the first in its class. - -"Sometub" narrowly escaped being christened "Kitchen Maid." It is -literally a kitchen-made craft, that is, it was put together in -the kitchen after its knockdown frame was received from a Michigan -boatbuilder. When culinary activities in the aforesaid kitchen were -partially suspended it afforded an ideal boatyard, but the fact that -a kitchen would be put to such extraordinary use there was attracted -thither a constant line of spectators, the majority of whom had as -little nautical knowledge as the builders. Propped up on a stepladder -the bony frame of the future boat looked like one of those uncanny -paleontological specimens in the Carnegie museum, and drew from the -visitors a flow of remarks entirely irrelevant to boatbuilding. Nearly -everyone doubted that the thing would be made to float, but a few who -were too polite to express their views went to the opposite extreme -and indulged in a line of flattery that was more irritating than the -skeptcism of the doubting Thomases. - -"Well, that's some tub!" The oft repeated phrase trickled away -somewhere into the damaged wall paper of the kitchen or into the big -paint spot that ruined the linoleum, and when the time came to name -the boat the words came back sufficiently anglicized and properly -compounded--"Sometub." And it stuck! - -"Sometub" has been laughed at by hundreds of persons who will never -know how it received its name. It looks less tub-like than the majority -of motorboats. The Brooks Manufacturing Company up in Saginaw, from -whom I bought the knockdown frame, doubtless would object to the -innuendo suggesting tubbiness because they boast of it as one of their -latest and most graceful models--a semi-V bottom shape which is -especially noted both for speed and seaworthiness. And it is all they -claim for it, and more, too! - -"Sometub" is 15 feet long by 43 inches on the beam. We took liberties -with the Brooks plan by constructing a bulkhead which enclosed five -feet of the bow. This left a 10-foot cockpit, over which was erected a -portable canopy top. Curtains that hung on the sides of the canopy made -a snug cabin 10 x 31/2 feet. For motive power we use an Evinrude motor. -By the way, it is one of those coffee mill affairs that you screw on -the stern of a skiff or rowboat. "Sometub" was designed for this very -sort of equipment and the theory worked out beautifully--until the -motor went wrong. And there lies the key to all the villainy that will -be divulged in this plain tale of the cruise of "Sometub" from Oakmont -to Washington. - -On account of the 150-mile portage from Pittsburgh to Cumberland, Md., -it is advisable to allow seven days from the time of your departure -on the Allegheny until your expected sailing from the other terminal -of the portage. In these seven days you will make the run down to the -Pittsburgh Baltimore & Ohio freight station at Water street, pack your -engine and duffle, bail out the boat, cart it to the Cumberland local -freight car, see it stowed away and spend four days hoping that it -will arrive in Cumberland before you and your cargo. Of course, your -hopes will be blasted, but to hope is human. Anyhow, you might as well -realize at the outset that cross-country cruising is to be an intensely -human experience. - -There was no ceremony when we backed out of a stall at the Oakmont Boat -Club in the late afternoon of the 9th of last July and picked our way -between the bathers, canoes and rowboats that clustered there. Even -if there had been occasion for ceremony, the thought that we had to -reach the Aspinwall lock before 6 o'clock or wait another hour, "on the -hour," caused us to lay a course straight for Nine-mile Island. With -its balky Evinrude five miles an hour is "Sometub's" best speed. Past -colonies of summer camps on the O'Hara township bank of the Allegheny -we continued our way hearing a giggle now and then as a maid in a canoe -or on shore caught sight of the aluminum letters on our bow and spelled -out "S-o-m-e-t-u-b." The tables were turned when we passed the "Ye -Gauds" camp. Phonetic spelling is epidemic among river campers. Their's -is not simplified, but rather perplexified spelling. - -For a mile above Aspinwall dam the Allegheny in breezy weather has -all the choppiness of a landlocked lake and affords the exhileration -of boating that is enjoyed on a much larger body of water. Here we -witnessed a scene that was in strange contrast with the gayety farther -up the river. Below the mouth of Squaw Run a group of terrifed children -stood on the bank intently watching a skiff which was being rowed -slowly down stream. At the oars was a youth vainly trying to look brave -while at the stern a grizzled riverman dragged a grappling iron. It was -the sequel to an old story. They were searching for the body of a boy -who had been drowned an hour before while trying to exchange seats in a -canoe. - -To make the Aspinwall lock on schedule time is always cause for joy -by the humble owner of a motorboat. If he is not there "on the hour" -he must wait until another 60 minutes have elapsed before the opening -of the gates, unless a towboat should happen along. The same rule is -in force at Lock No. 1 at Herr's Island. Here we arrived "in between -times," but the gates were open and we started in. A lock tender caught -sight of "Sometub" and waved frantically for us to get out and tie up -alongside a barge which lay near the shore. Astern was the towboat -Crucible making her way into the lock with a steel boat in tow. We -followed the locktender's directions, but when the big craft approached -and the pilot had sized us up, he stepped out on the hurricane deck -and pointed a place for us to tie in the lock. When our motor began to -sputter and he saw the name of the boat he laughed heartily and seemed -to share our delight in getting into the lock chamber ahead of the -Crucible. We soon chugged out and 15 minutes later rounded the Point, -anointing "Sometub" for the first time with the waters of the Ohio. -Running up the Monongahela in the twilight we moored at the motorboat -landing at the foot of Smithfield street. Here the boat was taken from -the water and shipped to Cumberland. - -I have said that we eased our conscience by following the patriotic -footsteps of George Washington. We struck the sacred trail in the first -hour of our cruise when, running down the Allegheny we scudded under -the decrepit Forty-third street bridge and past the historic point that -once was separated from the mainland and was known as Wainwright's -Island. From this point until the end of the journey we were constantly -on ground intimately associated with the life of Washington. - -Indeed if it had not been for the enterprise of Washington the cruise -never would have been possible; if it had not been for Washington the -Chesapeake and Ohio canal would not have been projected, and without -this pioneer waterway the valley of the upper Potomac would be a -solitary wilderness. The Baltimore and Ohio railroad only followed its -aquatic pacemaker and was pushed westward over the identical route -Washington had laid out for his canal to connect the waters of the -Potomac with those of the tributaries of the Ohio, the eastern link of -the intercontinental route which he dreamed would some day connect the -Atlantic seaboard with the great lakes, and the Mississippi valley. The -Lake Erie and Ohio river ship canal is but a revival of Washington's -gigantic project. "The Father of His Country" was a century and a half -ahead of the times in his comprehension of the transportation problem. - -The history of the construction of this canal is a commercial romance -replete with many a fascinating chapter involving personal peril, -adventures, triumphs, failures and political intrigue; for four bloody -years during the Civil war its right of way was held alternately by the -Union and the Confederate armies, and many a grim tragedy was enacted -there; today it is one of the few places in the country where the -oldtime canal boat is to be seen in practical operation. - -But the story of the canal will come further along. It is essential -in the narrative of the initial cruise of "Sometub" because its -towpath, worn by 20 successive progenies of mules, is the path that -paradoxically leads far, far away from the beaten path of modern travel. - -On Saturday evening, July 15th, we reached Cumberland. Rain was falling -but this did not deter us from launching "Sometub" in the waters of -the canal. We had made up our minds that rain must be disregarded--and -subsequent experience proved that this step toward resignation to -the elements was well taken. Before the voyage was three days old we -realized that Jupiter Pluvius was a stowaway with us. For 100 miles -we were the harbingers of showers, the advance agents of thunder, -lightning, rain and cloudbursts. - -We had hoped to leave Cumberland before sunset and tie up for the -night far from the noise of the city, but the best we could do between -showers was to put everything in shipshape and wait for the dawn. Rain -pattered down all night long and came in repeated gusts during the -day. In the meantime we sat on the hospitable porch of a retired canal -boat skipper and listened to his reminiscences of the "good old days." -Our delay just now was due to our failure to procure our waybill, -a document which gave us the right of way through the locks from -Cumberland to Georgetown. In this document "Sometub" was put down as a -motor-propelled craft of one ton net register and stipulated that it -should proceed at a speed not exceeding four miles an hour. The waybill -cost $5.10. - -Late in the afternoon we were informed that a deputy collector of the -port, who lived "down the canal beyond the bridge," would hand us our -waybill as we passed. Simultaneously with this good news the rain -ceased and the sun came out in radiant glory. In two minutes we were -away and broke the speed limit with the impunity of a motor driver -who knows that if he does not exceed the legal speed his machine will -stop altogether. We made a dash for the waybill. "Pshaw!" exclaimed the -collector. "It's too bad I didn't know the name of your boat. I just -wrote 'launch.' If I had known it had a name like that I would have put -it down, sure." - -"What are the rules?" we asked him. - -"Keep to the left--always--that's all. Tie up on the berm side (to the -left) and don't let yourself get dragged into the flume by the current -at the locks." We thanked him and started again. We rounded the big -bend of the Potomac, turning to the eastward where the blue horizon -of the mountains melted into the blue-gray mists and clouds of the -weeping sky. In what seemed an increditably short time we had left the -city behind and glided along the vine-fringed, ribbon-like pool that -wound its way into sequestered solitudes among the towering hills. Here -and there a farmhouse was visible in the distance on the uplands and -occasionally a lonely cabin squatted among the willows and dank weeds -that grew in the marshy places, but for the greater part of our run on -this level we hugged close to the hillside or proceeded through courses -of broad meadows. - -It was the first time an outboard motor cruiser had been seen on -the canal, and for that matter in the Potomac valley, and "Sometub" -attracted much attention among the country folk and the crews of the -boats. We passed our first canal boat beyond South Cumberland at a -point where the channel was scarcely 30 feet wide and narrowly escaped -rasping off our propeller on a ledge of rocks that formed the berm -bank, our danger being due to the provokingly deliberate action of -the steersman on the big mule-drawn hulk. After that we waited for -sufficient leeway before attempting to pass canal boats in narrow -channels. - -At sunset a whitewashed log house came into view and as we approached -we recognized the huge arms of the lock gates. Beyond the locktender's -cabin we saw the roofs of the houses in the little village of North -Branch, Md. Here was our first lock, the first of the 75 in 184 miles -on the canal between Cumberland and Georgetown. We were curious to -know how "Sometub" would behave in an old-fashioned lock with leaky -gates and were anxious to push on to the tunnel some 30 miles east -of Cumberland where the canal for nearly a mile of its course passes -underneath one of the lofty ridges of the Alleghanies. Ominous clouds -in the west hastened the approaching night. The proximity of a shelter -in case of a heavy rainstorm caused us to accept the locktender's -hospitality to tie up for the night alongside the flume at the head of -the lock. - -[Illustration: Left--"Sometub" Emerging from Mile-Long Tunnel Under -Alleghany Mountains. - -Above--Head of Navigation of Chesapeake and Ohio Canal at Cumberland, -Md. - -Below--"Sometub" Leaving Oakmont on Allegheny River.] - -Making the boat fast to the lockhouse we lighted our oil lantern, -dropped the side curtains and disregarded the returning rain while we -prepared dinner on two small stoves formed by a pair of tripod rings -containing cans of solid alcohol. Motor boating creates a genuine -appetite and we had all the facilities for preparing a good dinner -in the smallest possible space. The deck of "Sometub" provided a dry -place for the storing of bedding, dishes and supplies and there was -no crowding at mealtime. After dinner we wrote up the log, spread a -mattress in the bottom of the boat, fastened down the curtains and -retired early. - -The night was inky dark. The lights in the locktender's dwelling were -extinguished before 9 o'clock and the denizens of the village of North -Branch, several hundred yards away, seemed to seek repose at the same -hour. The solitude of the place grew oppressive. About midnight we were -aroused by a shriek that pierced the night air and echoed back from the -mountains across the river. Parting the curtains, we saw two sheeted -forms on the towpath, their ghostly outlines standing out against -the cloudy sky, while the waters of the canal reflected a pair of -shimmering specters which at first glance were calculated to make the -average stranger wish that he made this trip in a Pullman car. - -Again the shrieking broke forth and the sheeted forms began to move. We -were undergoing our initiation in night traveling on the canal, but we -didn't realize it at the time. - - - - -II. - - -OF THOSE ghosts that are simply ghosts I have no fear. Some persons -whistle when they pass country graveyards after dark in order, they -say, to keep up courage; for the same reason I sometimes whistle -on Broadway. Specters are harmless if they do not assume material -form. The apparitions on the Chesapeake and Ohio canal towpath soon -lost their ethereal quality in our vision and the unearthly noise -that accompanied their manifestation translated itself into "you -black-hearted, ornery, low-lifed beggar--geddap!" - -There was a familiar rattle of harness. The specters moved again, but -more quickly this time. Against the black infiniteness of the mountains -across the river were the shadowy forms of a pair of gray mules hitched -in tandem. Wearily they plodded off, and moving slowly, tediously, -silently behind them a canal boat followed along at the end of an -invisible towline. - -A canal boat at night is a great hulk of hush. Its silence is -positively uncanny. A few ripples momentarily disturb the placid -surface of the water but as they swirl around the craft they seem to -beckon a state of funereal quietude. You can hardly blame the midnight -driver of the canal boat for his profane vociferousness in addressing -his mules. His voice alone breaks the death-like stillness. After the -lock has been passed and the patient animals take up their gait, even -he is overcome by the environment and relapses into drowsy silence. - -At intervals through the night other specters appeared over there -on the towpath and their advent invariably was heralded by the same -hair-raising shouts. The noise of cussing the poor mules followed -as certainly as the agonizing "low music" during tense moments in a -melodrama. - -Tardy dawn ushered in a gloomy day. We placed our "canned heat" range -on a lumber pile beside the North Branch lockhouse and had our coffee -and bacon progressing satisfactorily toward the proper elements of an -al fresco breakfast when rain began to fall. We retreated to the boat. -The rain continued unabated and we breakfasted on board. Inasmuch as -we were obliged to keep the curtains down and tuck the baggage under a -poncho, it was impracticable--we thought--to proceed on our journey. - -The locktender's office at North Branch has seen service for more than -half a century. We can testify to this because after we had sought its -shelter and read all the magazines bought on the beginning of the trip -we turned to a perusal of the lockmaster's records. These books date -back to the 60's and it was fascinating to read on the faded pages -the entries for the boats and cargoes of a by-gone era. The boats now -operating are distinguished by numbers from 1 to 100, but in the old -days they bore names, suggestive, no doubt, of their architecture and -other characteristics, or of the ambition of their owners. - -Noon brought no cessation of the rain. We ate luncheon in the office. -"Star boarders" could not have reported more promptly at meal time. -Good appetites were the most encouraging features of this portion of -the trip. At 2 o'clock in the afternoon the skies cleared slightly -and in a few minutes we resumed our voyage. The three locks at North -Branch, Nos. 75, 74 and 73, respectively, were negotiated in less than -15 minutes and we found ourselves on "Oldtown level." - -In the language of the boatmen and the denizens of the canal country -all geographical distinctions are made strictly "on the level." A -"level," we learned, is that stretch of the canal between two given -locks. From Cumberland to Georgetown (Washington) there are 75 locks, -and consequently the same number of levels, plus one. - -There is an ancient and honorable superstition to the effect that the -person who sets out on a journey and turns back is certain to meet -with disappointment. Ten minutes after we departed from North Branch -we remembered that we had left our maps behind in the lockmaster's -office. The maps, United States Geological Survey quadrangles, -were indispensable and we turned back. Prompt and speedy came our -disappointment. - - * * * * * - -OLDTOWN LEVEL is about 10 miles long. We estimated that we could reach -Oldtown village in about two hours. While the idle hours had dragged -along in the sleepy hamlet of North Branch we looked forward longingly -to Oldtown. The name sounded enchanting and moreover we were told -that we could procure gasoline, groceries and our favorite brands of -confectionery there. After running merrily about seven miles our motor -stopped cold. No amount of coaxing would make it run. Gathering clouds -betokened a resumption of the rain. No human habitation was in sight. - -The motor's affliction was difficult of diagnosis, but its trouble -appeared to be serious. I had just made up my mind that the boat would -have to be paddled or towed to the end of the level when Canal Boat -No. 14 eased along. The skipper inquired we were "in trouble." It was -mere charity and politeness of him to ask, because the expression on -our faces must have told him that we regarded our condition as one of -dire distress. - -"His en-jine's done busted," shouted the little ragged muleteer as he -passed us on his plodding animals. - -"Ketch the line," advised the skipper, while we grasped the piece of -rope he tossed toward us. Making his rope fast to a cleat on the bow we -saw "Sometub" humiliated by being towed at the stern of a slow-moving -freight boat towed in turn by two decrepit mules. "Sometub" felt the -disgrace keenly and jerked about like an unbroken colt that feels a -rein for the first time. Only strenuous use of the paddle as a steering -oar kept the proud little boat in the channel. In this way we moved -stupidly into Oldtown. An hour and a half was required to go less than -three miles. - -On reaching the lock at Oldtown it was apparent that there would not -be room between the gates to accommodate both the canal boat and -"Sometub," and the skipper cast us off in a fashion so uncermonious -that we floated in his wake feeling like unbidden guests at a feast. -The big freight boat glided away, leaving us on the wrong side of the -gate. You know how sometimes you turn and drive away the homeless dog -that sheepishly follows you down the street? Well, we felt placed in -the situation of the homeless dog. - -It was the first time in my life that I experienced a sincere desire to -embrace the teachings of anarchy. After the canal boat had started on -its way Mr. Carter, the lockmaster, returned to inquire into our wants. - -"What are you going to do with us?" I asked him. - -"Lock you through," he answered. "Give me your line and I'll tow you -in. Then you can tie up over there and stop at my house all night. -My wife will have a nice hot supper for you. The gentleman who runs -the store up on the hill has an automobile and knows a lot about gas -engines. I know he'll be delighted to fix up your machine." - -It was hard to believe that he meant what he said. He had enunciated -that kind of hospitality which I had thought no longer existed except -in books that sell at $1.08. My wife, however, did not share my -skepticism. Here was good old-fashioned southern hospitality and she -emphasized the fact with some pride that we were now well over the -Mason & Dixon line and might expect cordiality to be something more -than a meaningless phrase. She rushed across the towpath to chat with -the lockmaster's wife and daughters while Mr. Carter towed "Sometub" -through the lock and found a suitable place to tie up on the berm bank -of the short level. - - * * * * * - -OLDTOWN, I believe, was called Oldtown even in its younger days. I -believe also that now in its boast of municipal veneration it looks -younger than it did in its youth. The wrinkled visage of great age is -in strange contrast with its modern affectations. Personify it and you -would have the picture of a centenarian doing a fox trot. Oldtown is -one of the oldest settlements in western Maryland and it dwelt on in -a kind of proud senility until West Virginia went "dry." Being on the -border Oldtown possessed a situation of peculiar strategic value. It -afforded the opportunity for the establishment of an exceedingly "wet" -outpost, and the opportunity did not go begging. In consequence the -chief enterprise of Oldtown is slaking the thirsts of West Virginians -from many miles up and down the Potomac. The structures that domicile -these establishments form a cluster of new buildings that gives Oldtown -something of the appearance of a boom town in the west. A sincere -opponent of the liquor traffic would be justified in saying that -Oldtown is in its second childhood. - -With many thanks we declined the hospitality of the whole-souled -lockmaster and his family and cooked our dinner in a drizzling rain -and "tinkered" on the motor until after midnight. The knowledge that -we were among friends enabled us to make ourselves comfortable for the -night regardless of the weather. - -In the morning we were awakened by a call from Mr. Carter. He came -to give me "a lift" with the motor. As a last forlorn hope I gave -the flywheel a twirl--and it went! We made all haste to depart and -before the sun had reached the mountain tops we were under way. With -good behavior on the part of the motor "Sometub" is the spryest young -boat you ever saw, and on this Tuesday, July 18th, we made our record -run. The sky was cloudless and out in the meadows we watched farmers -and harvest hands sweltering in the broiling sun, but in the shade of -the stately trees that form an arch over the canal in this region we -enjoyed a delightful atmosphere. Steep cliffs enclose the north bank -of the canal and over these in luxuriant profusion were seemingly -endless brambles of blackberry vines burdened with luscious ripe fruit. -For luncheon we skirted the cliffs and picked a dish of berries which -with crackers and tea enabled us to have a unique and delicious repast -without tying up the boat. - -Our logbook for this day contains nevertheless many entries of enforced -stops. Wild grass growing up in the bottom of the canal checked us -frequently and necessitated removing long coils that choked the -propeller. Shortly after noon we reached the tunnel which carries the -waters of the canal for seven-eighths of a mile under one of the lofty -ridges of the Alleghanies. The channel is barely wide enough to allow -the passage of a single craft and we knew that we must hold the right -of way or back out in case we should meet a canal boat. The tunnel has -no lights and when you get into its depths it is a veritable black hole -in the ground. - -Fixing our red and green running lights we started bravely in, but -after going a dozen yards we struck windrows of grass and weeds which -made it impossible for our propeller to turn. There was but one thing -to do, and I climbed out on the narrow shelf of a towpath and took the -end of the line while my better, and on this occasion, less nervous -half, caught up the paddle and steered. The towpath in the tunnel is -intended only for mules. In many places are mountain springs whose -icy waters trickle down through the old brick walls and transform the -towpath into soft mire that is knee deep. It was the longest seven -furlongs I ever trod and I came out of the tunnel with a feeling of -profound respect for the canal boat mule. - -Our cruise during the remainder of the afternoon was delightful. Here -is the wildest scenery in the upper Potomac valley and there are few -settlements. The locktenders were the only persons we saw for hours -at a time and the locks were few. Likewise on this part of our run -we passed no boats. We felt real neighborly toward the train crews -on the Baltimore and Ohio and Western Maryland railroads when they -condescended to look at us as they sped past. For miles, however, no -railroad was in sight. - - * * * * * - -A COUNTRY store keeper at Little Orleans, who dealt in everything from -women's "fashionable gowns" to fresh fish and from "near beer" to -gasoline, enabled us to continue our voyage without delay. From him we -purchased a supply of gasoline, oil and tobacco--three important items -for the "engine room." When the motor is out of order the consumption -of tobacco is particularly heavy. - -In the twilight we passed the village of Pearre and at dark drew up -alongside the dock of the Woodmont Hunting and Fishing Club. Dinner -was late this night but the weather was perfect and no fashionable -restaurant could have offered more inviting surroundings for the diner -with an appetite whetted by a day of toil in the great outdoors. We -sat in the boat and used the dock for a table. And we would not have -exchanged the privilege for the finest mahogany ever turned out! - -We were in Dixie now, sure enough. On the clubhouse porch up on the -hill a party of young people were holding a dance which was enlivened -by singing oldtime songs that recalled our presence in the beloved -Southland. As two tired voyagers dropped off to slumber they heard the -sweet strains of an inspiring melody that floated on the still night -air far across the Potomac hills-- - - _For life and death, for woe and weal, - Thy peerless chivalry reveal, - And gird thy beauteous limbs with steel, - Maryland, my Maryland!_ - - - - -III. - - -"THE HEART OF MARYLAND" is quite as elusive, geographically, as the -phrase is trite. After being lulled to sleep at Woodmont by the old -wartime song and awakened on a sunny morning by the carols of thrush -and mockingbird, we felt that the enchanted land of romance in the old -Cavalier commonwealth must indeed be near at hand. - -We made no haste to leave the hospitable dock at Woodmont. The day was -ideal and our camera was chaffing under long idleness. I had passed -this point a score of times on daylight trains of the Baltimore and -Ohio railroad and longed for an opportunity to tarry here. On our -voyage in "Sometub" we realized the oft-repeated wish and made the most -of it. - -A heartless motor, however, robbed the "heart of Maryland" of much of -its heartsomeness--for us. Leaving Woodmont about the middle of the -forenoon on Wednesday, July 19, we ran past the ancient settlement -of Sir John's Run, proceeded on under the shadow of Round Mountain, -in Maryland, and picturesque Lover's Leap, in West Virginia, and -glided into the prosperous looking town of Hancock shortly after 2 -o'clock. Hancock gained fame in the winter of 1861-62 when Stonewall -Jackson, from the hills south of the Potomac, deigned to throw a few -shells into this Maryland village. It was not a sanguinary battle, -but at that early period in the war it was considered a bold thing -for the Confederate leader to do, and for the time being disturbed -the "alls-quiet-along-the-Potomac" that had become stereotyped in the -reports of the military situation farther down the stream. At Hancock -a short spur of the Baltimore and Ohio runs up to Berkley Springs, a -watering place that boasts of patronage by Virginia aristocrats back in -George Washington's time. - -Resolved that we would forego the luxury of luncheon on board, we -tied up under the highway bridge, left "Sometub" in charge of the -toll-keeper and strolled into town. At the hotel we were too late -for dinner and were told that the dining room would not be open for -the service of supper until 6 o'clock. In desperation we sought a -restaurant--and in two minutes regretted that we had not prepared our -own luncheon on the boat. - -[Illustration: Picturesque Water Mill Beside the Potomac] - -Isn't it peculiar how the smallest trifles will alter the most -elaborate plans? A trifling ham sandwich in a two by four restaurant -caused us to evacuate Hancock forthwith. We had intended to remain here -a day or longer, run over to Berkley Springs and perhaps go fishing. -Instead we left town so precipitately that we forgot to stop at the -postoffice and ask if our mail had been forwarded. - - * * * * * - -A FEW miles east of Hancock is a wide-water a mile long in the canal -known as Little Pool, the channel being about the width of the -Monongahela river at the Smithfield street bridge. From Hancock to -this point we were obliged to stop frequently on account of grass that -clogged the propeller, and on entering Little Pool the obstruction -was so great that it was necessary to get out and tow several hundred -yards. When clear water was regained the motor began to show signs of -balking, and after a heart-rending effort to repair it on the towpath, -we threw the thing into the boat and paddled our way through the rural -hamlet of Millstone where housewives, milking their cows on the bank -of the canal, stared at us pityingly as we labored by. Cow stables and -pig stys on the berm bank offered no mooring place in the town, and we -plied the paddle until we reached a secluded stretch of woodland where -we could be alone in our chagrin over the obstinacy of the motor. - -When we lighted our lantern we were annoyed for the first time by a -swarm of mosquitoes. We had been warned before the trip that these -insects on the canal were related to the Jersey "man-eaters" and would -make life miserable on our cruise. We were prepared for their ravages, -but fortunately a little breeze sprang up after nightfall and they gave -us no more trouble. They were the only militant mosquitoes that we saw -between Cumberland and Georgetown. - -As if gloating over our discomfiture in having lost our motive power, a -double-bass bullfrog started in to make the night hideous. His favorite -singing dias was in the pool right under the bow of the boat. When a -stone was thrown in his direction he retreated into deep water, but -invariably returned. Late in the night I hit upon the expedient of -pouring a pint of 30-cent gasoline on the water. The croaker croaked no -more. - -In the morning a little tinkering was rewarded by the motor showing -signs of renewing operations and we started in high hopes, but after -a few hundred rods it was apparent that we were making little speed -and we limped into the tiny hamlet of Ernestville where we stopped for -supplies and fresh water. Ernestville is a poor shopping center and -fresh water and kerosene were about all we could obtain. - -Along this stretch of the canal it is paralleled for a considerable -distance by the old National Pike, which on this particular morning -was thronged by automobile tourists. As they sped by we knew that they -would be in Hagerstown in an hour. We wondered if we would reach there -in a day. It was apparent now that we must take our crippled motor to a -garage and Hagerstown was the nearest point where we could obtain the -services of a mechanic skilled in repairing marine engines. To reach -Hagerstown from the canal we decided to stop at Williamsport and this -was now our goal. - - * * * * * - -BIG POOL is a widewater where the canal broadens into a beautiful lake -nearly a mile wide and more than a mile long. Our balky motor pushed -us into this big sheet of water and then stopped with a derisive -screech. It was the ultimatum of a dry bearing and it was inexorable. -While we were floundering in the breeze and trying to paddle ashore, -a motorboat came alongside and its occupants inspected our equipment. -"Sometub" they liked immensely, but the engine perplexed them. We were -looking for neither advice nor sympathy and the stranger who acted very -superior and said, "I have a Koban," didn't improve his favor in our -eyes. - -Then into our lives came a heroic figure. Just at that moment he -appeared the greatest man in the world--philanthropist, navigator, -philosopher! He was the skipper of Canal Boat No. 18 which swept -majestically down the pool. His boat appeared as big and formidable as -the new superdreadnaught Pennsylvania. Dexterous work with the paddle -enabled us to get in its lee. Up there on his quarterdeck stood the -skipper. I since believe that he must have resembled Noah, but to we -two--we felt like castaways--he was indeed a mighty admiral. But he was -the admiral of a friendly power and amid all his dignity there was a -benign expression also of stern consideration for a brother mariner in -distress. We gazed at him and his noble craft in mute appeal. - -"Ketch the line!" - -Like spent swimmers grasping for a straw, we seized the line and made -it fast. For the second time "Sometub" was humiliated by being towed by -a prosaic freight boat. - -[Illustration: Above--Upper Level at Four Locks - -Below--Old-Time Mill] - -Two miles an hour is top speed for a laden canal boat and No. 18's -tired mules kept well inside this limit. At the end of the towline -we nosed along in perfect complacency. We chatted with the skipper, -admired the scenery, examined our maps of the route, chaffed the -villagers, ate our luncheon, jogged the motor, read a little, took -short naps and made ourselves absolutely comfortable. Our only effort -was to keep on the shady side of the boat, for the weather was the -hottest we had endured. As a remedy for tired nerves I can testify to -the curative qualities of canalboating. - -The skipper was a man of parts. He had run the canal for more than -20 years. He had walked every inch of the towpath from Cumberland to -Washington every hour of the day and night and he declared that he -could pace those 184 miles with his eyes blindfolded. He recognized -every hill and house and tree and could tell their history. He knew all -the neighborhood gossip, and all the neighbors knew him. - -Toward the end of the drowsy afternoon we floated into the little -village of Four Locks which takes its name from the fact that a chain -of four locks are here. No. 18 cast us off and we prepared to paddle -through. To our surprise the motor condescended to run. At the time I -was ready to believe that it heard the mule driver's sublime cussing -and was frightened into obedience. - -With the motor running again we soon passed No. 18 and snorted off -around a sharp bend, through Two Locks where we were lowered into the -waters of the Potomac. I say "snorted" advisedly. "Sometub" exhibited -colt-like behavior when unleashed from the slow-moving canal craft. -The towpath follows the northern bank of the river and the boats hug -the shore closely, but we careened far out into the stream. "Sometub" -had found a nautical playground more spacious than it had ever enjoyed -before. - -After a two-mile run on the river we entered another lock and once more -were confined to the comparatively narrow channel of the canal. We -found all conditions favorable and at sunset we crossed the great stone -aqueduct over the winding Conococheague and a few minutes later tied up -at the Williamsport lock. - -I was now on familiar ground. Eleven years before I had visited -historic Williamsport in quest of newspaper "feature stories," and a -decade had witnessed but little change in the place. In the early days -of the Federal government Williamsport was a pretentious bidder as -the seat for the national capital. In the Civil War it was a sort of -Pryzmyl, having been taken and retaken by the armies of both the north -and the south, but the town itself was of no importance except as the -key to strategic positions beyond. Here in June, 1863, the vanguard -of Lee's conquering legions crossed the Potomac when they swept down -the Shenandoah and crossed triumphantly into Pennsylvania, and here -less than a month later their ragged columns made a bold stand against -Meade's victorious forces while the retreating Confederates waited for -the flood to subside so that they could withdraw into Virginia. Along -the street that leads down to the river are many of the old houses -whose walls resounded with the tread of those valiant armies--Union and -Confederate. In those houses, too, many a soldier suffered the agony -of wounds received in the desperate charges at Gettysburg. Of those -southern heroes who raced with death from that immortal field, scores -gave up their lives here in sight of their native Virginia hills. - -Williamsport today is another of those outposts for supplying alcoholic -drinks to bleary-eyed pilgrims from West Virginia and in consequence -does not afford hotel accommodations for the ordinary traveler. After -trying in vain to get dinner, we boarded a trolley car and 40 minutes -later reached Hagerstown where we stopped for the night, enjoying the -solid luxury of a "room with bath connecting." - - * * * * * - -AMONG Hagerstown's well known business men is Mr. Walter E. Pattison, a -former Pittsburgher. We sent him a grape-vine telegram of our advent in -town and on coming down from breakfast in the morning he hailed us with -a motorcar and an invitation for a drive through Greater Hagerstown. We -accepted with alacrity, remembering the tedious hours of the previous -day, and made no objection when the chauffeur cut up didoes with the -Maryland speed limit. - -Mr. Pattison accompanied us to Williamsport in the afternoon to see -"Sometub" and to join a little reunion with Col. George W. McCardell, -the veteran editor of the Williamsport _Leader_. Editor McCardell had -been looking for me for eleven years and we were somewhat in doubt as -to the outcome of the interview. The reason for his desire to lay hands -on me was, as nearly as I can remember, the following paragraph which -was printed over my name in the Pittsburgh _Gazette_ in the summer of -1905: - - The Williamsport Leader is more than a journalistic - enterprise--it is a well founded institution. It is the - oracle of rockribbed Democracy, the unflinching champion of - pure Jeffersonism and unfaltering Andyjacksonism.... The - editor will take two pairs of Maryland frying-size chickens - on subscription, but of his Virginia subscribers he requires - three pairs in advance because, he says, the Maryland - pullets are better and more tender. - -I resolved to meet the editor and finish the argument. Mr. Pattison -led the way to a new and prosperously attractive sanctum. It was -publication day--Friday--and Col. McCardell, after a strenuous week, -stood with folded arms beside an imposing stone with type still wet -from the day's "run." My wife, who embodies the traditions of five -generations of the editor's brand of politics but who stood ready to -defend the quality of Virginia chicken against the world, was the first -to enter the den of the journalistic lion. It was a clever ruse on -Mr. Pattison's part, for first of all Col. McCardell is a chivalrous -southern gentleman. Why, of course, Virginia fried chicken is the -finest in the land. And Virginia women compose the very flower of -American womanhood. Their presence here is welcomed like the May-time -sunshine. The Potomac ripples softly when they cross the river and in -the trees on the Maryland shore the summer zephyrs sing sweet benisons -to the fair daughters of the Old Dominion. - -And when I entered the feud of eleven years had vanished. I could only -blush and bow my acknowledgements. - -With fond good-byes to Col. McCardell and Mr. Pattison we departed in -the mid-afternoon bound for Mercerville by twilight in the hope that -we would have the following day to spend on Antietam battlefield. But -we had not reckoned with the elements. Four miles below Williamsport -a terrific storm burst upon us. So sudden was the tempest that we -were obliged to tie to the towpath bank to prevent the furious gales -of wind from capsizing the boat. For a few minutes it seemed that our -canopy would be torn to tatters. Our lines gave way and I climbed out -to steady the heaving craft. Then it rained in such torrents that -it momentarily took away my breath. Vivid flashes of lightning and -deafening thunder followed in instant succession. The wind wrenched big -sycamores from their roots and they crashed across the miry towpath -like jackstraws thrown by an angry giant. The storm lasted more than -an hour but a steady patter of rain followed. Our supplies stored -under the deck and protected by the poncho were dry, but our clothes -were dripping and the temperature had turned chill and raw. Darkness -was coming on and we prepared to tie up for the night. How bright and -warm looked the blue flame from the canned alcohol while we boiled our -coffee! - -It was a gloomy outlook, but southern hospitality which proved the -silver lining to every dark cloud on our cruise, once more intervened. -A farmer rode down the towpath and invited us to go to his house for -the night. Our good Samaritan was Mr. J. H. Wine, whose home nestles -snugly under the mountain beside the canal. We accepted with haste that -we hoped would indicate our extreme gratitude and soon had our dripping -duds spread out on the backs of chairs before the range in the spacious -kitchen. Mr. and Mrs. Wine tendered us the guest room and we sought -slumber early. Only the outdoor enthusiast would have been worthy of -the frugal breakfast in the morning. We thanked our good hosts and -prepared to depart. The question of remuneration for favors invariably -was spurned by the hospitable people on the canal. - -The sun came out gloriously and we hoped to reach Mercerville by -noon. We did, but there the motor balked again and we spent two hours -trying to fix it. We gave up the thought of visiting Antietam and -about the time the shadows began to lengthen, started solemnly toward -Shepherdstown, five honest miles down the canal. We paddled and towed -alternately, making even slower progress than in the wake of No. 18. -Darkness came on and we were still on the lonely path. About 9 o'clock -we reached a lock and were told that Shepherdstown was still a mile -beyond. A storm was gathering and the lockmaster invited us to tie up -and spend the night in his house notwithstanding that it would place -several members of his large family at an inconvenience. We agreed to -leave the boat, but insisted on going to Shepherdstown where we could -find a hotel and a garage mechanic. - - * * * * * - -AGAINST the protests of the lockmaster and his wife we lighted our -lantern and started down the lonely towpath. Black clouds obscured the -sky and we stumbled along at times having difficulty in keeping on the -path. Flashes of lightning and rumbling thunder betokened a storm that -would rival the one on the previous night. Our lantern's flickering -light only intensified the darkness but the lightning frequently -assisted us when its glare illuminated the entire landscape. - -In our race with the storm we were the first under the wire. Fleeing -across the bridge over the Potomac we breathlessly climbed the hill -and along a dark street to the center of the town whither we had -been directed to the hotel. Suddenly we rounded a corner into an -electric-lighted thoroughfare and stood before the entrance of the -Rumsey House. Our clothes were wrinkled and we were splashed with -mud from head to foot. We still carried our lighted lantern and the -crowd at the hotel gazed at us with expressions twixt curiosity and -amazement. The proprietor was moved to commiseration. - -"Come in here, you-all, right away," he said. - - - - -IV. - - -THE hallowed notes of church chimes awakened us on our first morning -in Shepherdstown and before the day was an hour older we felt grateful -to the motor for compelling our stop-over in this quaint community. -Geographically Shepherdstown is in West Virginia, but politically, -socially and traditionally it leans toward the Old Dominion. It lies -in Jefferson county at the foot of the beautiful Shenandoah valley -and is essentially southern. Its whole atmosphere and the sympathy -of its people belong distinctly to Piedmont Virginia. It is the -Alsace-Lorraine of America. - -Next to Alexandria, Shepherdstown is perhaps the oldest important -settlement in the Potomac valley. It is one of the few old towns in the -country that has not been defaced by too much present day progress. -Shepherdstown has always been a substantial prosperous place and does -not affect the gewgaws of the new rich municipality. In some respects -it resembles Concord, Massachusetts. Its streets have many features -in common with the thoroughfares of the old-time New England towns. -In many of the residences are preserved some of the most striking -characteristics of chaste colonial architecture. - -It was a restful place to spend Sunday and in the evening we joined -the villagers in a stroll through the shady streets and out on the -bluff overlooking the Potomac. Here on the edge of the cliffs on a -natural base of limestone rock is an imposing shaft lately erected -to the memory of James Rumsey, Shepherdstown pioneer and inventor of -the steamboat. Rumsey, you know, was the Langley of steam navigation. -While Prof. Langley originated the idea of the heavier than air system -of aeronautic transportation, his aeroplane, upon which experiments -were made on this same Potomac river, was not perfected to the point -of standing the practical test. Two bicycle mechanics in Dayton, Ohio, -were destined to make a crowning achievement where the scientist had -failed. Posterity will demand that the Wright brothers share their fame -with Langley. - -[Illustration: Antietam Battlefield at Dunker Church (right) and -Cornfield (left) Across Hagerstown Pike] - -Although Robert Fulton is popularly credited with the invention of -the steamboat, he only perfected the work which was started by Rumsey -in the waters of the Potomac at Shepherdstown in September, 1784. In -the presence of George Washington a boat which ascended the stream by -mechanical appliances was exhibited by Rumsey 23 years before Fulton's -Clermont made its memorable voyage on the Hudson. - -The house in which Rumsey lived is one of the historic landmarks of -Shepherdstown. The inventor went to Europe and built a new boat which -made a successful trip on the Thames in December, 1792. A few weeks -later sudden death in the very prime of life cut short Rumsey's career. - -In the Civil War Shepherdstown endured the agony but shared little of -the glory of battle. It is about eight miles north of Harper's Ferry -and less than four miles west of Antietam. Skirmishes took place here -early in the war and in September, 1862, it saw Stonewall Jackson's -famous foot cavalry sprint through this corner of Jefferson county in -his encircling movement for the capture of Harper's Ferry. A week later -echoes of the guns engaged in the bloody work at Antietam reverberated -against the hills around Shepherdstown and on the afternoon of that -17th day of September hundreds of mutilated men were carried into the -village and committed to the care of the townspeople. - -The wounded were Confederate soldiers and from the majority of homes in -Shepherdstown had gone fathers, sons, brothers to fight under Lee or -Jackson. Marie Blunt, one of the heroic women who assisted caring for -the wounded, in describing that melancholy day, said: - -"We went about our work with pale faces and trembling hands, yet trying -to appear composed for the sake of our patients, who were much excited. -We could hear the incessant explosions of artillery, the shrieking -whistling of the shells, and the sharper, deadlier, more thrilling roll -of musketry: while every now and then the echo of some charging cheer -would come, borne by the wind, and as the human voice pierced that -demoniacal clangor we would catch our breath and listen, and try not to -sob, and turn back to forlorn hospitals, to the suffering at our feet -and before our eyes, while imagination fainted at the thought of those -other scenes hidden from us beyond the Potomac. - -"On our side of the river there were noise, confusion, dust; throngs -of stragglers; horsemen galloping about; wagons blocking each other, -and teamsters wrangling; and a continued din of shouting, swearing -and rumbling, in the midst of which men were dying, fresh wounded -arriving, surgeons amputating limbs and dressing wounds, women going in -and out with bandages, lint, medicines, food. An everpresent sense of -anguish, dread, pity, and, I fear, hatred--these are my recollections -of Antietam." - - * * * * * - -LEAVING our invalid motor in care of a garage mechanic we boarded a -Norfolk & Western train Monday morning to visit Antietam battlefield. -It is a ride of less than 10 minutes from Shepherdstown to the station -of Antietam which is adjacent to the village of Sharpsburg. The half a -century that has passed since the war has witnessed but slight change -here. Nearly all the houses are of the antebellum type. The woods -have been cleared at various places over the field, but otherwise the -landscape has changed but little when compared with wartime photographs -and sketches of the battle. - -A walk through the town and the national cemetery brought us to the -Hagerstown pike which parallels the battle lines on the northern half -of the field. Threatening weather called for haste and I was obliged -to forego the pleasure of a ramble to familiar scenes around the -picturesque Burnside bridge which I had photographed 11 years before. -We were interested in two parts of the field--the line of Anderson's -Confederate division and the position occupied by Hooker on the Union -right. In locating the former we soon found ourselves in Piper's lane -and walked down to the gray stone barn which stands as solid today as -on that Wednesday afternoon when Hill and Sumner struggled for the -mastery of this blood-drenched farmstead. - -Less than a mile beyond is the little whitewashed Dunker church which -marks the key to Stonewall Jackson's position. It stands in the woods -at the west side of the Hagerstown pike at the intersection of the -Smoketown road. On the east side of the pike was the famous cornfield -where the Union soldiers under Hooker and Mansfield engaged in deadly -combat with Jackson's men. In an area covering a few acres the losses -on both sides in less than four hours' fighting on the morning of -September 17th probably exceeded 5,000 killed and wounded. - -All the important positions occupied by the troops on both sides -have been marked by tablets erected by the Federal government and -many memorials have been placed by the various states. One of the -most interesting monuments is that of the State of Maryland to her -sons--Union and Confederate--who perished at Antietam. It stands on a -knoll a short distance east of the pike opposite the Dunker church. - -At 11 o'clock on Tuesday morning, July 25, our motor having been -pronounced "cured," we slipped "Sometub's" moorings and after adieus to -hospitable friends in Shepherdstown, started on the second half of our -journey. A mile and a half below the town we passed the ford over which -Lee's army retreated from Antietam and saw the cliff where the Corn -Exchange regiment came to grief in its pursuit of the Confederates. -A little farther on we noted what we supposed was the site of Camp -McAuley where the One Hundred and Fifty-fifth Pennsylvania regiment -from Pittsburgh spent many a chilly bivouac in the autumn of 1862. - -The scenery on the canal between Shepherdstown and Harper's Ferry is -not rivaled anywhere in the country for its variety, abounding in -pastoral beauty, historic interest and sublime grandeur. Our motor, -being on its good behavior, the trip was uneventful. Across the river -among the trees we descried the little hamlet of Falling Waters where -occurred one of the first conflicts of the Civil War. We glided over -Antietam creek through a picturesque aqueduct and continued for miles -on through the trees at the base of the lofty cliffs of Maryland -Heights. - -After several stops to catch the pictures that presented themselves at -every turn, we reached the lock opposite Harper's Ferry about 4 o'clock -in the afternoon. We threw "Sometub's" line to a picket fence beside -the canal and hastened across to the town to call at the postoffice to -receive an accumulation of 10 days' mail that had been forwarded from -point to point all the way from Hancock. - -This is a late day to describe Harper's Ferry. Thomas Jefferson more -than 100 years ago wrote a description of the place and stole the -thunder from his successors for all time to come. In October, 1859, old -John Brown in a different manner gave fresh fame to the locality, and -on a gallows over the hills at Charles Town paid the penalty with his -life. Harper's Ferry got into the headlines soon after Fort Sumter was -fired upon and kept in the limelight till the very close of the war. -Since that time the Baltimore and Ohio railroad has appropriated the -old town, mountains, rivers, scenery, historic associations and all and -has overlooked no opportunity to exploit its beauty and its traditions. - -We had expected to have a veritable field day here with our camera, -but when we came from the postoffice clouds rolled down from the -mountains like great avalanches of snowy feathers, the village grew -misty and rain began to fall. With no immediate prospect of clear -weather we decided to continue our voyage. It would be heresy, however, -not to present a picture of Harper's Ferry, and we are indebted to -Mr. J. Hampton Baumgartner, of the Baltimore and Ohio railroad, for -the one presented here. The railroad has acted the pious antiquarian -in preserving this historic shrine and the fame of the sacred spot is -perpetuated largely through the services of this corporation. Railroads -more frequently are ruthless vandals in their treatment of historic -landmarks, but not so with the Baltimore and Ohio. This portion of the -railroad is itself a talisman of history worthy of every patriotic -American's interest and study. - -[Illustration: Harper's Ferry, from Maryland Heights] - -Rain was falling in torrents when we unleashed "Sometub" from the -picket fence and started through the lock. By the time the one-armed -locktender had opened the gates and we chugged out under the Baltimore -and Ohio bridge at the entrance of the Maryland Heights tunnel the -storm had grown to the proportions of a cloudburst. We found ourselves -in a canyon of concrete with a sharp curve ahead. It was a perilous -place to meet a canal boat and we continued on through the blinding -storm. At the end of the canyon we moored to the towpath bank for a -time, but with darkness approaching and the rain continuing unabated, -we resolved to resume the voyage. - -At dusk we reached Brunswick. Everything above board on the boat, -including ourselves was drenched. Scrambling out on the towpath I waded -through the mud to inquire of the locktender for a place to tie up. -Despite the rain, we had decided to spend the night on "Sometub." We -had become so attached to the little craft by this time that it seemed -like ingratitude to go to a comfortable hotel and leave it out there in -the storm and the night. - -But this was not to be. - - - - -V. - - -THERE must have been something about the appearance of our outfit or -ourselves, or both, on the arrival of the bedraggled "Sometub" at -Brunswick calculated to awaken the deepest sympathy of the kind-hearted -folk who watched us approach through the chilly rain. When I asked the -lockmaster for a suitable place to tie up for the night he pointed to -a dilapidated dock on the berm bank adjacent to an ancient and densely -populated pig pen. - -"It would be very fine, except for the neighbors," I told him. "Pigs -have a habit of getting up too early in the morning to suit us." This -was not quite the reason for our objection to mooring beside a pig -pen, but I aimed to be diplomatic. Perhaps they might be his pigs. -"Crackey!" exclaimed the lockmaster, "You-all don't intend to spend the -night in that boat, do you?" - -"Yes," I answered. "We have the most comfortable cabin you ever saw." - -Before the lockmaster could answer another man, who hastened over from -the railroad yards, at once assumed the role of superintendent of the -harbor, collector of the port, quarantine officer or whatever you would -choose to call him. He spoke with the air of a person clothed with -absolute authority. - -"Yes, yes; tie up over there and I'll----" he began. - -"I have just told the lockmaster that I'll not tie up over there," I -interposed. But our new friend disregarded me entirely and continued: - -"----I'll have an automobile here in five minutes to take you and the -missus up to the hotel. Your boat will be safe till morning. Come from -Pittsburgh, eh? How in Sam Hill did you get into the canal? I used to -work in Pittsburgh, but that was a good while ago. Pretty big place -now, I suppose--" - -He was true to his word. An automobile oozed through the mud and the -chauffeur announced that he was ready to take "the lady and gentleman -to the hotel." In the presence of such an example of prompt service -we reconsidered our resolution to spend the night in the boat and -taking our baggage, we went to the hotel in our khakis. The people in -the lobby must have thought that unkempt members of a band of gypsies -had invaded the place when we rushed through to our room. However, -the opinions of bystanders as to the appearance of our traveling duds -gave us little concern. We put on dry clothes and in a few minutes it -was announced that the dining room had been opened for our especial -benefit. The young wife of the proprietor cooked and served a bountiful -repast. She must have felt repaid for the effort by the manner in which -we dispatched all the good things she had prepared. - -The rain lasted through the night but Wednesday, July 26th, dawned with -clear skies. We prepared to depart early, but first stocked "Sometub" -with provisions and fuel, Brunswick being the last large town on the -canal on the way to Washington. Before us for a distance of nearly 50 -miles lay a stretch of sparsely settled country. From Brunswick to -Point of Rocks the Baltimore and Ohio railroad runs close beside the -towpath and in the early morning, "Sometub" was greeted several times -by passengers on the observation cars of the Royal Blue express trains -which dashed by at a mile-a-minute speed. We wondered if the people who -were fluttering handkerchiefs and waving hats envied us. It was while -riding on the observation car several years ago on this same route -that we had planned our voyage. In its realization we regretted that -more vacation tourists could not share the pleasure of our trip over -the mountains--by water. We did not stop to consider that the majority -of summer travelers desire speed, luxury and the least discomfort and -would balk at the petty annoyances we endured through an obstinate -motor and the omniesence of Jupiter Pluvius. - -Under the shadow of old Catoctin mountain we passed the Point of Rocks, -famous in the Civil War as the place where Lee's army crossed for the -invasion of Maryland in the Antietam campaign. A few miles beyond the -course of the river turns from southeast to southwest and we sheered -off sharply from the railroad. We crossed on the famous stone aqueduct -over the Monocacy river. The character of the scenery changed quite -as preceptibly as the direction of the stream. Through the drooping -branches of the trees we saw on the north the rugged outlines of old -Sugar Loaf peak and across the Potomac the undulating ridge of the -southern spur of Catoctin, and when heights faded in the blue haze of -a midsummer day, we bade farewell to the mountains. Henceforth our way -ran through the lowlands down to the sea, the hills and river bluffs -reaching an altitude of only a few hundred feet. - -At Edwards Ferry we saw the wooded face of Ball's Bluff which gave name -to a Civil War conflict which was second only to Bull Run in causing -discomfiture to the people of the North. In this little fight the -country lost a notable figure in the person of General Edward D. Baker, -first United States senator from Oregon. - -For miles along this portion of our route we ran without seeing a human -habitation. A dense strip of woodland concealed the river from view and -bluffs or marshy thickets interposed between the canal and the country -to the north. Occasionally through the trees we caught a fleeting -glimpse of beautiful meadows and cornfields of the Maryland farmlands, -but these vistas were rare. - -At White's Ferry, where on September 5th, 1862, Stonewall Jackson's -army forded the Potomac, and while singing "My Maryland," marched -gallantly on toward Frederick, we stopped under the highway bridge that -spans the canal to replenish our supply of gasoline. Leaning over the -rail of the bridge stood a native whose face was obscured by the shadow -of a straw hat of immense brim. Over his shoulder was a fishing-pole -of a length of thirty feet or more. He ignored our salutation when we -approached, but after we had drifted under the bridge he crossed to the -rail on the other side and inquired: - -"Stranger, whar did you put that tub in this ditch?" - -"Cumberland." - -"By crackey!" And he sauntered down the road. - -The history of this "ditch" is a commercial romance closely linked -with the political developments of the last one hundred and fifty -years. During the period immediately preceding the Revolutionary War -Washington devoted his chief attention toward the opening of the west -to colonization and for a cheap transportation route foresaw that -navigation on the waters of the upper Potomac would offer a direct -outlet for the products of the agricultural regions of the western -country to the Atlantic seaboard. The alarm from Lexington in 1775, of -course, put an end to all immediate plans for the internal improvement -among the colonies, but after Burgoyne had been cut off at Saratoga and -Cornwallis had been bagged at Yorktown, Gen Washington again turned his -attention to the transportation problem. Before peace was restored he -left the camp of the patriot army at Newburg and inspected the future -route of the Erie canal through the Mohawk valley. - -Washington shrewdly divined that a canal between Lake Erie near -Niagara, connecting it with the Mohawk and the Hudson would open up a -route that would be a dangerous competitor to the southern colonies in -their trade with the west. Soon after he was relieved from his military -duties he made a tour of exploration with a view of locating a route -connecting the Potomac with the Ohio and the Great Lakes. His journal -sets forth clearly his wonderful farsightedness and broad comprehension -of the situation. Here is Washington's report of his transportation -line from Detroit to Alexandria, Va.: (The spelling is Washington's). - - To Cuyahoga River 125 Miles - Up same to Portage 60 Miles - Portage to Bever Ck 8 Miles - Down Bever Ck to the Ohio 85 Miles - Up the Ohio to Fort Pitt 25 Miles - Mouth of Yohiogany 15 Miles - Falls to Ditto 50 Miles - Portage 1 Mile - Three Forks or Turkey foot 8 Miles - Ft. Cumberland or Wills Creek 30 Miles - Alexandria 200 Miles - ---- - Total 607 Miles - -Bear in mind that the "mouth of the Yohiogany" is now McKeesport, that -the "falls to ditto" indicates Ohio Pyle and that "Three Forks" means -the present locality of Confluence, and compare the distances with -present day surveys. They will not vary a mile on the entire stretch. -Ask the eminent engineers of the Lake Erie & Ohio River Canal if they -can add much to Washington's ideas. Their answer will give you added -reasons for celebrating on the 22nd of next February. - -In February, 1785, the laws were passed by the legislatures of Maryland -and Virginia authorizing the formation of a company for the improvement -of the Potomac river and books for the subscription of stock were -opened at once. The total shares were 403 and the capital of the new -Potomac Company was 40,300 pounds. Washington was elected its president -and James Rumsey, the inventor, whose monument we saw at Shepherdstown, -was general manager. In the summer of 1785 the work of blasting rock -and other obstructions was begun between Great Falls and Harper's Ferry. - -The work was prosecuted with vigor, but during the winter of 1786-87 -there came a hint of labor troubles. Common laborers were paid 32 -shillings (about $8.00) a month "with the usual ration except spirits, -and with such reasonable allowance of spirits as the manager may from -time to time think proper." The question of spirits seems to have been -the chief cause of the trouble, for it is recorded that the company -contracted for the supply of rum at "two shillings per gallon." It must -have been the same kind of stuff that is peddled across the river to -"dry" Virginians today. - -In 1787 Washington withdrew from active work in the company to accept -the presidency of the Republic. His retirement sealed the fate of the -corporation. Its affairs languished for years and in 1823 was declared -defunct. - -In the same year--1823 a date since famous for the promulgation of -the Monroe doctrine--the navigation project was again revived in the -Maryland legislature. It was estimated that the proposed work of -cutting a canal from tide-water (Washington, D. C.) up the Potomac, -across the mountains to a branch of the Ohio, and down the same, at -$1,500,000, of which Virginia, Maryland and the District of Columbia -were each to subscribe one-third. The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Company -was incorporated by the Maryland legislature in 1825 with a capital -stock of $6,000,000, Congress having previously made an appropriation -of $30,000 for preliminary surveys. The route selected for the canal -alarmed the citizens of Baltimore. They saw that it would divert trade -from their city. About this time Philip E. Thomas, a Baltimore banker, -and George Brown, an enterprising resident of that city, took earnest -counsel between themselves to save the traffic for their town. On the -19th of February, 1827, they held a meeting with their townsmen which -was destined to become memorable in the whole history of transportation. - -[Illustration: Tom Thumb--B. & O. 1830] - -Up in Quincy, Mass., and in Maunch Chaunk, Pa., for a year or two -wagons had been operated on rails, and Mr. Thomas inquired of his -confreres why a "rail road" would not be practicable from Baltimore -to the Ohio. The whole world knows the answer: On February 28, 1828, -a charter was granted to the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Company, Mr. -Thomas resigned the presidency of the Machanics' Bank in Baltimore to -become the head of the first American railway system. - - * * * * * - -THEN began a memorable commercial race between canal and railroad. -Their prospective routes were parallel and both sought the same -destination--the Ohio river at Pittsburgh. Early in 1826 both -companies were in the field surveying for their respective highways. -On the fourth of July succeeding celebrations were planned by the -rival corporations. In Washington on that day President John Quincy -Adams, the members of his cabinet, foreign ambassadors, survivors of -the Revolutionary War and a great throng of citizens proceeded up -the Potomac to Great Falls where the first spadeful of earth in the -construction of the canal was turned by the President of the United -States. - -Over in Baltimore at the same hour the venerable Charles Carroll -of Carrollton, the only surviving signer of the Declaration of -Independence lifted a spadeful of earth in placing the foundation -stone to commemorate the commencement of the building of the Baltimore -and Ohio Railroad. The railroad was completed to the Maryland shore -opposite Harper's Ferry in 1834 and was opened to operation December -1, the work on the canal at that time having proceeded more rapidly, -despite injunctions, financial embarrassments and a multitude of -obstacles that interfered with the work. The canal finally was -completed to Cumberland February 17, 1851. - -In the meantime the railroad had struggled to success in spite of -similar obstacles. The Baltimore and Ohio was opened to the public May -22, 1830, and was received with approbation of the public. At this time -the line extended from Baltimore to Ellicott's Mills, a distance of 12 -miles. It was advertised that "brigades of cars left Baltimore at 6 and -10 a. m. and 3 and 4 p. m." These "brigades" of cars first were hauled -by horses and mules and later a brother of President Thomas invented -a car which moved by sails. The superintendent of motive power, -nevertheless, was enterprising and steam was soon applied. As early -as 1831 the company offered a prize of $4,000 for the best locomotive -offered for trial on the road. It is a curious fact that a watchmaker -of York, Pa., built the first practicable models. - -One of these, the "Atlantic," on August 25, 1835, drew the first train -into Washington amid the applause of President Andrew Jackson and a -distinguished assemblage. This "grasshopper" locomotive was in use -a generation later when it hauled the vanguard of Union soldiers to -save the national capital in 1861. It developed a speed of 30 miles an -hour which was regarded as suicidal in the early days of railroading. -Although superannuated, the "Atlantic" is still in a good state of -preservation and can be operated under its own power. - -The canal and railroad are no longer competitors. The bonds of the -former company are held by the railroad. The canal is in operation -during the season of navigation and more than 100 boats are engaged in -providing low-priced transportation for coal from Cumberland to the -seaboard. On the railroad "brigades of cars" are seen at intervals of -a few minutes dashing along behind locomotives that weight more than -twenty times that of the little old "Atlantic." - -[Illustration: "Atlantic" Engine--B. & O. 1832] - - - - -VI. - - -THROUGH the sultry afternoon of Wednesday, July 25th, "Sometub" ran for -hours under the willows that fringe the Maryland meadows in Montgomery -county. Across the river the Virginia shore presented an endless -panorama of wooded hills that grew less rugged in their outlines as we -proceeded down the stream. At sunset we were running through a marshy -region and decided to keep on rather than invite malaria by spending -the night on the border of a swamp. We were happy when, in the receding -twilight, we espied the hills of Seneca creek and knew by consulting -our topographical maps that we would have a more healthy mooring place. -At Seneca a widewater covers about ten acres and under a big sycamore -tree beside the little lake we tied "Sometub," preparing dinner on our -"canned heat" range and serving it on our poncho which was spread on -the soft, green turf. - -The dying embers of a campfire were visible across an arm of the lake -and after dinner we went to pay a neighborly call. Beside the fire was -a tiny "pup" tent supported by two canoe paddles. On our approach three -young men greeted us. A week before, they told us, they had started out -from their homes in Washington on a fishing trip up the river. In the -Potomac the bass were not biting but the mosquitoes were and betwixt -hope and desperation they had turned into the canal. Now they were -having fairly good luck and were comfortable. - -Our new friends punctilously returned the call. One of the youths was -the son of a naval officer and expressed much interest in "Sometub," -and its unique cabin arrangement. We sat in the lantern light till -midnight swapping motorboat experiences for fish stories. In this we -had the better of the deal. - -Thursday dawned clear and hot. Our neighbors, the fishermen, were out -before sunrise and had breakfasted on their catch of perch, catfish -and "sunnies" before we were stirring. Old Sol drank up the dew within -a few minutes after his appearance over the Virginia hills and we -made an excursion into a blackberry thicket where we picked a dish -of luscious fruit for breakfast. It was our last berry feast of the -season. After reciprocating photographs of our respective "camps," we -headed for Seneca lock and were lowered through it by members of a -troop of Washington Boy Scouts who volunteered their assistance to the -lockmaster. - -At noon we reached Great Falls. Here are 13 locks in a series of two, -seven chambers in the first and six in the second. The actual time in -making the descent was considerably less than two hours. We stopped -at the first lock, and upon payment of a small fee to the lockmaster, -were admitted to the private park surrounding the Great Falls of the -Potomac. Crossing a swinging bridge to an island in the river we -obtained a magnificent view of the cataract. The stream was at flood -stage and the scene rivaled the rapids of the lower Niagara. - -In the late summer and autumn of 1861 the Union and Confederate pickets -frequently exchanged compliments at short range from behind the rocks -and boulders along this stretch of the Potomac. If you have any friends -among the survivors of the Pennsylvania Reserves, ask them to tell -you of their experiences during the open season for snipers in those -exciting days. - -In the middle of the afternoon we passed Cabin John bridge and moored -"Sometub" at the lock at the foot of Glen Echo park. In the shade of -the trees everything looked cool and refreshing and we decided to -spend the evening with friends in Washington, but a few minutes after -we stepped off the boat we realized that it was the hottest day of -the summer. The lockmaster's wife invited us to go into her house and -assigned us "spare rooms" to change our clothes. Going to Washington -by trolley, we found the heat in the city almost intolerable after -our fortnight in the open air of the mountains. After dinner in town -against the protests of friends we returned to the boat and were lulled -to slumber by the music in the dancing pavilion of the park. - - * * * * * - -JUPITER PLUVIUS had been on hand at the beginning of the voyage and now -at its close he was in evidence again. Rain interrupted us at breakfast -and continued through the forenoon. Disregarding the showers we started -on the last lap of our cruise and at 11 o'clock reached Lock No. 1, -or, according to our count, No. 75 from Cumberland. We surrendered -our waybill with the request that the canal company would return it -to us to keep as a souvenir. After a pleasant chat to the lockmaster -during which time we took refuge from a particularly annoying shower, -"Sometub" was lowered to the Georgetown level. A few minutes later -the lofty towers supporting the arials of the naval radio station at -Arlington were visible and rounding a majestic curve to the eastward, -we beheld the fantastic skyline of the National Capital. - -[Illustration: "BACK HOME"] - -Threading our way between a fleet of canal boats, tugs, skiffs and -nondescript craft we reached the coal wharf in Georgetown and ran -"Sometub" into the mud at the ancient lock which connects the canal -with Rock creek, its outlet into the waters of the Potomac. The -waterfront at Georgetown is no prepossessing place and the attitude -of the bystanders was not calculated to lead the boatman to leave his -property unguarded. Asking the obliging lockmaster to "keep an eye" -on "Sometub" I went up a side street to the office of the Chesapeake -and Ohio Canal Company to report our arrival and to meet in person Mr. -A. Sahli, the secretary, with whom I had had an interesting telephone -conversation last winter when in Washington arranging for the voyage. - -Mr. Sahli had been most obliging and we felt grateful for his advice. -He told me that a short distance below the lock at the railroad yards -I could take the boat from the water and ship it back to Pittsburgh. -It seemed that every possible convenience was provided for the skipper -directing a "portable cruise." - -I cannot describe my feelings when I returned to the wharf. We refused -to realize that our voyage was at an end. It seemed that to take down -the canopy, pack our stores and utensils and lift "Sometub" from the -water would leave us absolutely homeless. It was still raining. For -a long time we sat in the boat debating what to do. It was Friday -and we had three days remaining on our hands. The little boat never -looked more friendly, cozy and hospitable than just now. We had been -companions on a most interesting journey and to leave it to pursue our -own pleasure was like parting with a faithful partner in adversity. - -We compromised by exploring new waters. Giving the signal to the -lockmaster, we were lowered into Rock creek and started up that winding -stream toward Rock Creek park where we hoped to find a quiet place -to tie up. We ran under the arched bridge of Pennsylvania avenue and -under the trees to a point at the foot of the hill below DuPont circle -but here shoal water checked our progress. Reluctantly we turned back -and ran out to the dam where the creek empties into the Potomac. Here -our cruise came near terminating in a tragedy. We were within 30 yards -of the dam before we saw that water to a depth of a foot or more was -pouring over its crest into the swirling river 15 feet below. The motor -refused to reverse. We were caught in the current and drifted broadside -toward the dam. - -Then we learned that a spruce canoe paddle is the most reliable of all -motors for a small boat in moments of emergency. It was impossible to -stem the current, but we succeeded in edging off from the middle of the -stream and when almost at the edge of the dam caught some wisps of -willows and held "Sometub" until a line was thrown ashore. - -After extricating ourselves from this predicament we ran back to the -entrance of the canal and met a great, whole-souled man in the person -of Mr. Michael O'Leary, night watchman in a machine shop on the river -front and the owner of a houseboat in Rock Creek. True to all the -virtues of his nationality, Mr. O'Leary possesses a generous heart and -bountiful hospitality. Shure, it would be all right to tie up to his -boat and he would be plased to keep an eye on the wee tub. - -Honesty was written all over his face and we left "Sometub" in his -care, going downtown to spend another evening with friends but returned -at night to our cabin. Saturday morning we were confronted by the -inevitable necessity of "taking down" the superstructure of the boat -and packing our baggage. Mr. O'Leary was on hand with a group of -longshoremen who lifted "Sometub" from the water and carried it to a -freight car as if it were a toy. We felt homeless now indeed. Only the -refreshing good humor of Michael O'Leary mellowed our regret that our -voyage was at an end. - -"Sometub" in its freight car berth started that night on its return to -Pittsburgh for many subsequent weekend excursions on the Allegheny, but -we tarried a day longer. On Sunday morning we crossed over to Virginia -and went to old Christ Church in Alexandria. There in that historic -temple of worship, with its sacred memories of George Washington, we -rounded our fortnight's journey. From first to last we had followed in -the footsteps of the greatest American. - -[Illustration] - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Sometub's Cruise on the C. & O. 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