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diff --git a/43454-0.txt b/43454-0.txt index a40b40c..ecf8d38 100644 --- a/43454-0.txt +++ b/43454-0.txt @@ -1,41 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Peeps at many lands: Sweden, by -William Liddle and Mrs. Liddle - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Peeps at many lands: Sweden - -Author: William Liddle - Mrs. Liddle - -Illustrator: Anders Zorn - Carl Larsson - -Release Date: August 12, 2013 [EBook #43454] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PEEPS AT MANY LANDS: SWEDEN *** - - - - -Produced by Ann Jury, Matthew Wheaton and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43454 *** VOLUMES UNIFORM WITH THIS @@ -2606,361 +2569,4 @@ PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Peeps at many lands: Sweden - -Author: William Liddle - Mrs. Liddle - -Illustrator: Anders Zorn - Carl Larsson - -Release Date: August 12, 2013 [EBook #43454] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PEEPS AT MANY LANDS: SWEDEN *** - - - - -Produced by Ann Jury, Matthew Wheaton and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - VOLUMES UNIFORM WITH THIS - - - PEEPS AT MANY LANDS AND CITIES - - EACH CONTAINING 12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR - - AUSTRALIA - BELGIUM - BERLIN - BURMA - CANADA - CEYLON - CHINA - CORSICA - DENMARK - EDINBURGH - EGYPT - ENGLAND - FINLAND - FRANCE - GERMANY - GREECE - HOLLAND - HOLY LAND - HUNGARY - ICELAND - INDIA - IRELAND - ITALY - JAMAICA - JAPAN - KASHMIR - KOREA - LONDON - MOROCCO - NEW YORK - NEW ZEALAND - NORWAY - PARIS - PORTUGAL - ROME - RUSSIA - SCOTLAND - SIAM - SOUTH AFRICA - SOUTH SEAS - SPAIN - SWEDEN - SWITZERLAND - TURKEY - WALES - - - PEEPS AT NATURE - - WILD FLOWERS AND THEIR WONDERFUL WAYS - BRITISH LAND MAMMALS - BIRD LIFE OF THE SEASONS - THE HEAVENS - - - PEEPS AT HISTORY - - CANADA - INDIA - JAPAN - SCOTLAND - - - PEEPS AT GREAT RAILWAYS - - THE LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY - THE NORTH-EASTERN AND GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAYS - - - PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK - SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. - - - AGENTS - - AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY - 64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK - - AUSTRALASIA OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS - 205 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE - - CANADA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD. - ST. MARTIN'S HOUSE, 70 BOND STREET, TORONTO - - INDIA MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD. - MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY - 309 BOW BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA - - - PEEPS AT MANY LANDS - - - SWEDEN - - [Illustration: A FLODA GIRL. _Anders Zorn._] - - - PEEPS AT MANY LANDS - - - - - SWEDEN - - BY - - REV. WM. LIDDLE, M.A., B.D. - - AND - - MRS. LIDDLE - - - WITH TWELVE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR - - BY - - ANDERS ZORN, CARL LARSSON, - AND OTHERS - - - LONDON - ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK - 1911 - - - Transcriber's Note: Author's spelling, though often incorrect - has been maintained. - - - CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - - I. SWEDISH HISTORY 1 - II. GOTHENBURG 10 - III. A SUMMER HOLIDAY AT MARSTRAND 15 - IV. ACROSS SWEDEN BY WATER 21 - V. STOCKHOLM--I. 26 - VI. STOCKHOLM--II. 31 - VII. THE SWEDES AT WORK 36 - VIII. THE SWEDES AT PLAY 40 - IX. EDUCATION IN SWEDEN 47 - X. DALECARLIA 52 - XI. CUSTOMS 57 - XII. THE ISLAND OF GOTHLAND AND TOWN OF VISBY 63 - XIII. FAIRY-TALES 69 - XIV. JUL, OR CHRISTMAS 75 - XV. MIDSUMMER 80 - XVI. SOME WELL-KNOWN SWEDES 84 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - ARTIST. - - A FLODA GIRL _Anders Zorn_ _frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - - OUR COUNTRY _Otto Hesselbom_ 9 - - A SWEDISH SHEPHERDESS _Anders Zorn_ 16 - - SUMMER EVENING ON THE - WEST COAST OF SWEDEN _Oscar Hullgren_ 25 - - GUSTAVUS VASA'S ENTRY INTO - STOCKHOLM, MIDSUMMER, 1523 _Carl Larsson_ 32 - - A SUMMER DAY IN NORTH SWEDEN _Carl Johansson_ 41 - - A SKI-RUNNER _Hallström_ 48 - - "BRASKULLA," A PEASANT GIRL - FROM MORA _Anders Zorn_ 57 - - IN DAYS OF OLD _Ankarcrona_ 64 - - A GIRL WITH "KICKER" _Carl Larsson_ 73 - - DANCE ON MIDSUMMER'S EVE _Anders Zorn_ 80 - - A GIRL FROM RÄTTVIK " _on the cover_ - - _Sketch-Map of Sweden on p. viii._ - - - [Illustration: SKETCH-MAP OF SWEDEN.] - - - - -SWEDEN - - - - -CHAPTER I - -SWEDISH HISTORY - - -In one of the most beautiful and romantic districts of Sweden there is -one of the oldest copper-mines in the world. It is situated at Falun -in Dalecarlia. About 400 years ago a young man might have been seen -looking into the open mine. He was full of thought and anxiety, for -was not his country in the hands of the Danish King, Christian II., a -cruel tyrant? and was not he himself being pursued and driven to seek -concealment, as he was a direct descendant of the ancient Kings of -Sweden? He had suffered much, but had never given up hope. He stood -there thinking of his country's down-trodden condition, hopeful, -trustful, and resolute, resolving to deliver his native land from the -foreign yoke. He remembered how the miners had fought in days of old -for their country. He would rouse them so that they would do it again. -He donned the peasant costume, and became as one of themselves. He -worked alongside them in the mines, and soon became a great favourite -because of his bright, winning manner. He took every opportunity of -speaking to them of the subject that lay nearest to his heart--the -freedom of their native land. He told them of the massacre of many -nobles at Stockholm, of ladies of rank being thrown into the sea, of -boys being whipped to death, and of peasants hanged for the slightest -offence at the order of King Christian, the Nero of the North. - -After working in the mine for some time, he was recognized. He then -took service with an old college friend, Anders Persson, of Rankhytta, -who sympathized with him, but was unable to help him. He sent him to -Squire Arendt Persson, who, eager to win the reward offered for -Gustavus Vasa's capture, betrayed him to the Danish soldiers. Arendt's -wife suspected treachery, and let the young man down with a towel from -a window in the loft to the snow-covered ground outside, where a -trusty servant was waiting with a sledge to convey him to a place of -safety. When Persson arrived next morning with soldiers, he found the -bird flown. - -On another occasion he took refuge in a hut in the forest. The Danes -had so entirely encircled the district, that Gustavus seemed -completely in their power. A friend, however, hid him in a load of -straw, and proceeded towards Rättvik. They were surrounded by Danish -soldiers, who stopped the cart and roughly thrust their sharp pikes -into the straw. Gustavus was pierced in the side by a spear. The pain -was great, but he endured it without a groan. Satisfied he could not -be there, the soldiers rode on. Blood, however, was seen on the -ground. To account for this, the driver had cut his horse's leg close -down to the hoof. - -As soon as he recovered from this wound, he went with renewed vigour -and zeal from hut to hut, exhorting the people to rise and throw off -the Danish yoke. This led him into great difficulties and great -suffering. He was often in want of food, and afraid to ask shelter. At -one time he had scarcely a moment to conceal himself under a fallen -tree before a party of Danish soldiers galloped up. - -At last he made his way to Dalecarlia, where he had made his first -venture. The Danish soldiers again got on his track. He rushed to the -house of a peasant, and found the wife at her spinning-wheel. When she -knew who he was, she put him into a dark cellar underneath the -kitchen-floor, and covered the trap-door with a large brewing vat. -The soldiers were baffled, and although they were strongly of opinion -that Gustavus was there, left without him, but not without having been -entertained by the good woman, who had never lost her presence of -mind. - -Gustavus Vasa, after many trials and disappointments, seemed to think -that he must give up his scheme, and resolved to leave the country for -Norway. He was away in a lonely spot, and preparing to cross the -mountains, when he heard voices calling to him. He turned round, and -saw some Dalecarlians on skis, who had been sent by their companions -to recall him, as they had resolved to rise against the Danes under -his leadership. Gladly he agreed to their request, and returned to -Mora, where, on a Sunday after church, he addressed the men, -recounting the miseries and sufferings of the land under the Danes. -"He has a manly voice, and a winning tongue," said an old man, "and -see the north wind blows. Let us attend to what he says." The north -wind blowing was considered a good omen--a sign that God would be -gracious. Gustavus was soon chosen lord and chieftain over Dalecarlia, -and the whole realm of Sweden. After he had collected an army of -several hundred men, he marched to Falun, seized the property of the -Danish and German merchants, and distributed it among his men. -Infected by his enthusiasm and encouraged by his early success, the -Swedes assembled round his banner in large numbers. The Danes were -struck by their courage and hardihood. On one occasion a Danish -General asked how a large force of Swedes could be supported in so -wild a country. A Swede, hearing the remark, said that the -Dalecarlians were content to drink water, and, if need be, eat bread -made from the bark of a tree. Thereupon the Dane said: "A people who -eat wood and drink water, the devil himself cannot subdue," much less -any other. The Swedes at first were poorly armed, but with bows and -arrows, axes, and clubs, used with an intense love of Gustavus and -country, they repeatedly defeated the Danes, who, after two years' -hard fighting, were driven out of Sweden. On Midsummer's Eve, June 23, -1523, Gustavus made a triumphant entry into Stockholm as King. He -reigned for thirty years. His memory is fresh to-day in Sweden as the -liberator of the country from the Danish yoke. - -Another name that is honoured by every true Swede, and by many who are -not Swedes, is Gustavus Adolphus I. He is chiefly and justly held in -honour because of what he did for the Protestant cause in Europe. The -Protestant Princes had lost heart, as they had suffered very much at -the hands of Generals Tilly and Wallenstein. Gustavus resolved to go -to the aid of the Princes. With only 13,000 Swedes he set sail, but as -soon as he reached Germany, large numbers of men joined his army. -Emperor Ferdinand, when he heard of his arrival, said: "Oh, we have -another little enemy come against us!" His courtiers replied with a -laugh, and said: "The Snow King will melt as he approaches the -southern sun." He did not melt, but proved an iron King, as he drove -everyone before him. Soon he rallied the Protestant forces, and made -his power felt from the Polar Sea to the Alps. - -The Emperor's Generals found in him more than a match. He was cut off, -however, very early in life. He was with his devoted men before Lützen -preparing for a great battle. As usual, they prepared by worshipping -God. They sang the King's hymn, "Fear not, little flock," and then -engaged in prayer. The next day the King mounted his horse to lead his -army. When his officers saw him, he was without his armour. They urged -him to put it on. "God is my cuirass," said the King, and galloped -into the thick of the fight. It was a desperate fight, and a critical -moment, when his riderless horse was seen rushing madly out of the -fray. Gustavus Adolphus was dead. He had died in the hour of victory. -He was not only a great man, but also a good man. He believed in God's -willingness to help the right. "To pray often is almost to conquer," -was a favourite saying of his. - -Charles XII. was another warrior-King of Sweden, and was one of -Europe's greatest and youngest of soldiers. At the age of fifteen, -when most boys are thinking of amusement, he ascended the throne of -Sweden after the death of his father, and a few months later took the -reins of government into his hand and placed himself at the head of -his army. He was possessed of great energy, very courageous--perhaps -oftentimes foolhardy--but too ambitious of winning glory. Within -twelve months, when he was only nineteen years of age, he had to -encounter Denmark, Russia, and Poland. He first so attacked Denmark -that the King had to sue for peace. On a November morning, with 8,000 -Swedes, he attacked 50,000 Russians under the walls of Narva, and -inflicted on them a great defeat. He then dethroned the King of Poland -and put another in his place. His hatred of Russia was his downfall. -In 1708 he again invaded that country. He spent the winter in an -impoverished and hostile land, and when the Czar, Peter the Great, -with 70,000 men, attacked him, he had but 23,000 worn-out and -destitute men. He was defeated, and fled to Turkey, where he found a -refuge; but at the end of 1715 he returned to Sweden. Notwithstanding -his reverses, his passion for fighting led him to attack Norway in -1716 and 1718, when he was killed at Frederikshald at the early age of -thirty-six. - -He is one of the heroes of Sweden. He called upon his men to suffer -much, which they did willingly, as they were devoted to him, because -of his courage, his sympathy with them, and his ever-cheerful -countenance. He, however, exhausted the country, as the wars he -carried on drained her of her best blood, and emptied her treasury. -From this date Sweden was no longer one of the great military powers. -It was of Charles that Dr. Johnson wrote, in his "Vanity of Human -Wishes," the celebrated lines: - - "His fall was destin'd to a barren strand, - A petty fortress, and a dubious hand. - He left the name at which the world grew pale - To point a moral or adorn a tale." - -The last of this line of Kings was Charles XIII. He was an old, -infirm, and childless man when the question arose who should succeed -him. Napoleon Bonaparte was then carrying everything before him, -and among his Generals was one Bernadotte, who had risen from the -ranks, and proved himself to be one of the greatest powers in France -at that time. The Swedes chose him as Crown Prince, very much against -Napoleon's wish, who, no doubt, did not desire to lose so able a -General, but at last, probably thinking that Bernadotte would help him -in his schemes, said, "Well, go! may our fates be fulfilled." -Bernadotte soon after this took a leading part in Napoleon's -overthrow, and in 1818 ascended the throne of Sweden as Charles XIV. -He reigned for twenty-six years, and proved a wise ruler. His -great-grandson is the present King. - - [Illustration: OUR COUNTRY. _Otto Hesselbom._] - -The following is a list of Kings in our country contemporary with the -Swedish ones of whom a brief sketch has been given: - - SWEDEN. ENGLAND. SCOTLAND. - - Gustavus Vasa, {Henry VIII., 1509-1547} James V., 1513-1542 - 1523-1560 {Edward VI., 1547-1553} Mary, 1542-1567 - \ / - -----------v------------- - Gustavus Adolphus, {James I., 1603-1625 - 1611-1632 {Charles I., 1625-1649 - - Charles XII., {William and Mary, 1688-1702 - 1697-1718 {Anne, 1702-1714 - {George I., 1714-1727 - - {George III., 1760-1820 - Charles XIV., {George IV., 1820-1830 - 1818-1844 {William IV., 1830-1837 - {Victoria, 1837-1901 - - - - -CHAPTER II - -GOTHENBURG - - -Sweden is a country that is not very well known, but is one that is -most interesting to visit, because of the kindliness of the people and -beauty of the scenery as well as many historical associations. As soon -as you have reached the little island of Winga, with its lighthouse, -you are led to think of those days, long, long ago, when the Goths -left these shores in their Viking ships, to sweep the seas and found -kingdoms, or of those days when Gustavus Adolphus gathered the young -able-bodied men of the country, that they might go with him to Germany -to fight for the faith he loved, while the old men and women were left -to till the land. In many places you come across beautiful castles -containing great treasures which Gustavus and his Generals brought -home from the war. These were days when the Swedes were known -everywhere as heroes in the battle-field. Now, you do not think of -them so much as a warlike nation, but as one peaceful and industrious, -seeking to win honour and renown in the more peaceful field of -science, industry, and art. The poet Tegner says: - - "We have conquered a world at the point of our sword, - Let us now win the world by our song and our thought." - -The rough seas of the ocean are past. The calm waters of the Göta have -been entered. You have still some hours to journey before you reach -Gothenburg, the second city of Sweden. The steamer threads its way -through a crowd of rocky islands, very bare, barren, and desolate, -with scarcely any vegetation. Here and there can be seen a lonely -fisherman's hut, painted red, and perhaps an occasional lighthouse. If -it be a Sunday afternoon or a holiday, there is plenty of life. There -in summer can be seen hundreds of men and women bathing in the water, -or basking in the open air on the banks of the river or on the -islands. Every now and then you meet steamers crowded with -pleasure-seekers, who are to spend the day at Marstrand, Lysekil, or -one of the numerous watering-places in this northern archipelago. -These islands, bare as they are, have a wonderful fascination. Spend a -short time on one of them, and you have a desire to repeat your visit. -There is the restfulness of the lonely island with the clear water -dashing upon the rocky shore. What glorious sunsets, as the sun sinks -into the ocean beyond Winga! - -As the steamer wends her way up the river, among other places you pass -Styrso, with its baths, sea-bathing, and many fine villas built by -Gothenburg merchants, and Långedrag, another of the numerous -sea-resorts. Your curiosity is aroused by the sight of large tin cans, -similar in appearance to those that convey the milk from the farms to -the towns in our country. These are water-cans. They have no fresh -water suitable for drinking in many of the islands, so that it has to -be carried every day from a town. Now you come to Elfsborg, an -abandoned and dismantled fort situated on an island rock in the -channel. The church of Majorna looks down upon you from the top of a -cliff. Then, after you pass the ship-building yard and factories, you -arrive at the Harbour of Gothenburg, the fortress of the Göta. - -The origin of all towns is interesting. How did Gothenburg come into -existence? It dates back from the time of Gustavus Adolphus, who -founded it in 1619. We are told that he came on a visit to this -neighbourhood to decide upon the site of a new city. As he stood on -the top of the Mountain Otterhällen, surrounded by his advisers and -officers, a small bird, chased by an eagle, flew to the feet of the -King for refuge. The King thought this was a message from heaven, and -there and then decided that the new city should be built at the foot -of the mountain. To keep the memory of the founder fresh, the -inhabitants have erected a statue of King Gustavus Adolphus in one of -the squares. It represents him with big boots, military cloak, hat -with feathers, and finger pointing out the site of the city. - -The steamer has arrived earlier than was expected. You cannot leave -the ship, as your friends are coming for you. You need not remain on -board because you cannot speak Swedish. Nearly every intelligent -inhabitant of Gothenburg can converse fluently in English. Wait -patiently for a little and the captain will allow you to telephone to -your friends from the ship. Very many ships have the telephone. By the -time the custom-house officer has examined and chalked your luggage, -the telephone connection has been made. It saves one's friends many a -long and weary wait for the uncertain arrival of a steamer. - -Thus you are introduced to one of the striking features of Swedish -life. The telephone is universal. Every place of business, of course, -has one, but also every private house, every farm, and even the little -kiosks on the street can boast of a connection. - -After landing, as you drive through the streets you are struck by the -Dutch appearance of the city. Canals intersect the streets. This is -because the first inhabitants were chiefly Dutch merchants, called -into the country by the King. - -The city makes a splendid impression on one, as the streets are well -laid out and the houses well built. - -How bright and fresh everything appears in the King's Port Avenue or -the Allée, lined, as they both are, with rows of spreading trees and -stately buildings! These are the fashionable streets and favourite -promenades, where can be seen the youth and beauty of Gothenburg. - -The visitor must also see a large public park--Slottskögen--where the -working-men, with their wives and children, listen to the music of the -band. Then there are the Botanic Gardens, which are also a -pleasure-resort. - -You should not miss the market where you buy your fish alive. Near by -is the fruit-market, where you see the old women behind their stalls -of flowers, fruits, and vegetables. One wonders how they move, they -are enveloped in so much clothing. There, too, can be seen the little -boat with its load of firewood. Near by are tables laden with sausages -and hams. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -A SUMMER HOLIDAY AT MARSTRAND - - -I must now give you an idea how a holiday is spent at the seaside in -Sweden. Early in the year the question is, Where shall we spend the -summer? Three whole months of liberty and sunshine--this is what every -boy and girl looks forward to in Sweden, as the public schools all -close on the last days of May, or first days of June, and do not -reopen till the first day of September. - -This summer we decide to go to Marstrand, and I will try to give you -an idea how a day is spent there. On a fine morning in the first week -of June we board the pretty steamer _St. Erik_, and although we have -come early, we find it already crowded with families hurrying off to -the seaside, so great is the rush from town as soon as the schools are -closed. We have to sit wedged in between beds and perambulators, so -many and varied are the things it is necessary to take to a Swedish -watering-place. - -After the steamer has threaded its course for about two hours between -the numerous rocks and islands, we suddenly get a glimpse of the tower -of Marstrand's fortress, dominating the whole island, and overlooking -the stormy Kattegat, whose waves beat on its shores from all sides. -Then we steam up through a very narrow passage, cut in the rocks years -ago, to allow the gunboats of that day to retreat under the guns of -the fortress. - -Many a time, as a child, I used to watch with anxiety the progress of -the steamer when in that narrow canal, as the boat almost touches the -cliffs on either side, and it needs great skill to pilot her through -safely. - -Having passed through, we are in full view of Marstrand. What a -glamour rests over that sunny island to many a holiday-seeker! - -But as your eyes gaze upon it, you look in vain for any handsome -buildings or hotels; what you see is a lot of nicely-built houses with -red tiled roofs, all clustered closely together at the foot of the -fortress, which is built on the highest hill of the island. A -prominent feature is the white church with its square tower. The town -was founded in 1220 by the Norwegian King Hakon Hakonson. During the -sixteenth century it rose into importance as one of the best herring -fisheries of the North, but in these days it depends almost entirely -on the support of its summer visitors. We have now arrived at -Marstrand quay, which is crowded with happy, chattering people, -everyone eager to welcome some friend; or it may be they have just -come down to watch the arrival of the steamer, this being one of the -excitements of the island. - - [Illustration: A SWEDISH SHEPHERDESS. _Anders Zorn._] - -How delicious and soft the air is, full of the briny smell of the sea! -Excitement runs high amongst the young people, as they think of all -the delights of a summer at Marstrand, which are chiefly summed up in -the three words, bathing, sailing, and fishing. We soon get settled -into our home for the summer, a large, airy villa, standing in a shady -garden, not far from the battery, and having a fine view of the sea. - -Our first fishing expedition is planned to take place the day after -our arrival. We are wakened early in the morning, between five and six -o'clock. With eagerness we jump out of bed, and as we mean business -and not only pleasure, we don an old serge skirt, as we know we shall -get many a soaking of salt water from the spray of the waves as well -as from the dripping fish. After a hurried breakfast we rush down to -the quay, where we find our faithful old skipper Anders in his large, -comfortable sailing-boat, waiting for us. - -We sail right out into the open sea, where we drop anchor, and now the -sport begins. The fishing-lines are unwound, each line often having -about six hooks. These we bait with mussels. When luck is good, one -has not long to wait; we were soon all busy pulling up and letting -down our lines again as fast as we could, often getting two whiting or -plaice at a time. - -What fun it is to feel the tug and pull of the fish, but after a -couple of hours we are ready to return home, feeling almost giddy with -the strong air and the rocking of the boat; but we have enjoyed the -morning immensely, and come back full of joy and spirits. - -Another pleasure at Marstrand is the sailing. Along the quay -are moored several large boats with their white sails hoisted, -bearing various Northern names, such as _Thor_, _Balder_, _Gudrun_, -_Ingeborg_, etc. - -One hires these boats by the hour; the favourite sail is to the -well-known "Paternoster" ledges, a group of rocky islets distant four -miles from Marstrand, in beautiful open sea. These islands are much -dreaded by sailors, and on Hamnskär, the largest of them, there is a -lighthouse, and below it is the light-keeper's house, a low stone -building, the only human dwelling-place on the island. There are also -two little towers; one holds the fog-bell, and the other the windmill -which winds the clock which gives the warning to the vessels that -pass near those fatal rocks. - -Often these pleasure sailings are extended for a whole day; the boats -are large and comfortable, and the skippers are skilful, reliable men. - -On the one half of Marstrand the town is built. It looks very quaint -and old with its narrow, cobbled streets. There are two parks, one -named Paradicet (the Paradise). This used to be the favourite -meeting-place for the visitors, but lately the park which surrounds -the Society House is the rendezvous, and near it are the public -bathing-houses. - -The sea-bathing house is built in a circle, and covers a good deal of -water, the depth of the water being about 3 feet. From the enclosure -there are doors that open out into the open sea for the more able -swimmers. Each bather has a small room to undress in, and all these -rooms lead out on to a gallery that runs entirely round the basin of -water, into which steps descend at convenient intervals. - -There is always a teacher of swimming to give lessons to those who do -not know how to swim, and there are not many boys and girls in Sweden -who do not learn this accomplishment very early. - -The climate of Marstrand is very mild and balmy. There is scarcely any -difference in the temperature between night and day; consequently, -the temperature of the sea is very even, and sea-bathing is enjoyed -till late in September. - -For the sight-seer the fortress "Carlsten," of Marstrand, is an object -of interest. It is still in a perfectly preserved condition. In some -places the walls are blasted out of the cliffs; in others built of -granite. From its high ramparts one gets a fine view of all the -surrounding islands and sea. - -Marstrand itself is all grey rock, with a very few trees. A favourite -walk is round the island. At one place you pass between high cliffs, a -very narrow passage called the Needle's Eye. The extreme point of the -island is called Tå Udden--the Cape of the Toe. This is a favourite -resort, as here you gaze right out on the sea, and when it is stormy -you see the grand spectacle of the waves dashing against the low -rocks. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -ACROSS SWEDEN BY WATER - - -An interesting and comfortable way of reaching Stockholm from -Gothenburg is by canal. Between these two cities are many lakes, -including Vener, Vetter, Hjelmär, and Malar. These are so linked -together by canals, that they form a waterway across Sweden through -which fairly large passenger and cargo-boats can go from the North Sea -to the Baltic. - -Travelling by canal-boat is, as a rule, tedious. It is interesting in -this case. The steamer passes through a country which has many towns, -churches, and castles that make you think of long, long ago, and also -many factories and workshops that speak of the present. You rarely -lose sight of vast expanses of water and great stretches of forest. In -the distance you can see a whitewashed parish church glistening in the -sun, here and there farmhouses and woodmen's huts nestling among the -trees, and sometimes the castle where the nobleman of the district -lives. How comfortable is the steamer, ever fresh-looking with its -white paint, with its nice dining-room, clean and tidy cabins, food -beautifully cooked, and well served by smart waitresses. Both mind and -body have enough to make the time pass pleasantly. - -To avoid the monotony of the first part of the journey, many join the -steamer at Gothenburg about midnight, and arrive at Trollhättan early -in the morning. After morning coffee with _kringlor_ (ring-twisted) -biscuits, you leave the steamer while it passes through the locks, -eleven in number, and walk along the shaded paths until you come to -the falls. They consist of a series of six rapids, and are noted not -on account of their heights, but because of the volume of water. They -are playing a large part in the industrial life of the country, and -are destined to do much more. - -In a very short distance the steamer has ascended 144 feet, and once -more enters the Göta River, along which it travels until it enters -Lake Vener, the largest lake in Scandinavia. It is very picturesque -and beautiful, with many houses and villages on its banks. More than -thirty rivers run into it. You very often meet steamers and -sailing-vessels, and for their safety a great many lighthouses have -been erected. It is not till you have passed through this lake that -you enter the Göta Canal. - -The canal owes its origin to a desire in the sixteenth century to -connect Lake Vener with the Baltic. It was not until 1808 that Baltzar -von Platen, with the assistance of the English engineer Telford, -staked out the course, and the work was completed in 1820 at a cost of -about £1,000,000. Very many soldiers were engaged on it. The whole -distance is about 125 miles, which is a long distance to travel by -canal steamer, especially as passing through locks is slow, but the -beauty and variety of the scenery, as well as the sights, ancient and -modern, always keep up the interest. - -After entering the canal at Sjötorp, the steamer proceeds very slowly, -always ascending, until it reaches Lake Vetter, 308 feet above the -Baltic. Next morning, when you come on deck, you find that you have -entered the lake itself. Away to the south is Sweden's greatest -fortress. You can see it in the distance with the tower surmounted by -the national flag. Lake Vetter is clear and blue and is beautiful to -look upon, but every mariner dreads it, as, without any warning, -violent storms arise. Sailing across in a south-easterly direction, -you come to a famous old town--Vadstena. How times have changed! -Before you rise the massive castle with its towers and spire. It was -built by Gustavus Vasa, who when fifty-eight years of age brought -here his third wife, Katarina Stenboch, who was only sixteen and a -very unwilling bride. The lake comes up to the walls and fills the -moat, which is used as a harbour. - -There are here remains of two churches, which owed their origin, as -the town did, to a convent founded by S. Brigitta in the sixteenth -century. She was a splendid woman, and drew to her side ladies of -noble birth from many countries. Life was very strict in the convent, -no one could possess any wealth, no intercourse was allowed with old -friends except on rare occasions. Every nun was driven out at the -Reformation, and not much is left to tell of their having lived there, -but in the town many women make beautiful lace of the old patterns the -nuns used to work. Often on board the steamer a woman brings a -basketful to sell. The steamer re-enters the canal at Motala, where -there are very large engineering works, at which all the science of -modern times is employed in turning out all sorts of engines and -mechanical appliances. - -When the steamer is entering Lake Roxen, we are again carried back to -the old days. Here is Vreta Closter, where of old kings were buried, -and here, too, can be seen several coffins in one of the chapels. -These contain the remains of members of the Douglas family, who fought -under Gustavus Adolphus. Their descendants have a high place among -Swedish nobility at the present day. - - [Illustration: SUMMER EVENING ON THE WEST COAST OF SWEDEN. - _Oscar Hullgren._] - -Lake Roxen is a beautiful sheet of clear crystal water, with steep, -rocky, and wooded shores on the one side, and fertile plains on the -other. There are many old ruins that command our attention. - -On the last morning of our trip, we wake up to find ourselves among -those pretty islands that dot the Baltic Sea off the Swedish coast. We -have, however, to pass through the Sodertelie Canal, which is entered -at a village of that name. Of this you can make no mistake, for on -board come women and children with baskets full of ring-twisted -biscuits, which are known all over the world. At last we enter Lake -Malar, surely one of the most beautiful of lakes, and with a warm sun -and blue sky overhead, no one can but feel at peace and full of -happiness. Soon the spires of Stockholm are visible, and the canal -voyage is over when we moor at the Riddarholm quay. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -STOCKHOLM--I - - -There are many beautiful cities in the world, and among them should be -placed Stockholm, the Venice of the North. This is due not only to the -enterprise of the people, but also very largely to its situation. What -a lovely picture, or series of pictures, the traveller sees as he -approaches Stockholm from the sea. The steamer wends its way among -hundreds of small islands, covered with luxuriant verdure and foliage. -On each of these islands brightly painted wooden houses are seen, -surrounded by pretty gardens of flowers. These are the country -residences of Stockholm's business men. Every such house has its -landing-stage, at which small but swift steamers call every morning -and evening, and it is a never-failing source of pleasure to see the -meetings and partings of father and family. The Swedes are very -demonstrative, and speed the parting guest with waving of handkerchief -until he is out of sight, although he may be returning in a few hours. - -As the steamer passes through Lake Malar, towards Stockholm, the -interest ever increases, as on its shores you see towns and villages, -old castles and modern villas, farm and meadow alternating with -huge masses of rock, while ever and anon you meet steamers and -sailing-ships on their way to and from the sea. At last the towers and -spires of Stockholm are in sight. - -The history of Stockholm is most interesting. There are many legends -that tell of the founding of the city. Here is one. In the twelfth -century some robbers, who came from the East, entered Lake Malar, -plundering and destroying the ancient city Sigtuna. The inhabitants -gathered together what was left them of their jewels, and having -placed them in a boat, made out of a log of wood (Swedish "stock"), -set it adrift on Lake Malar. Away down towards the Baltic it floated, -the despoiled ones following and wondering where it would find a -harbour. At last the log or stock landed at the island of Agne's Näs. -Here the gods had decided their new home should be, and the "holm" -where the "stock" harboured was named Stockholm. - -There is, however, more accurate information than this legend. In the -days when might was right, the Vikings made Lake Malar their -stronghold. Its great length, with its numerous arms, made a secure -anchorage for their ships. Thence they made forays in the Baltic. They -were often successful, but many a time were pursued in turn. To -prevent the entry of the pursuers, they built a fortress on the -central island which commands the entrance to the lake. This was in -the eleventh century. From this time Stockholm dates its origin. - -Around the fortress they built houses for the Vikings and their -families. Alongside these were built houses and stores for traders and -merchants. - -By the middle of the twelfth century there were a considerable number -of people gathered together round the fortress for commerce and -protection. - -There is one man honoured by the people of Stockholm as the founder of -the city. This was Birger Jarl, who was a King in all but name. He -built walls and towers round the houses on the largest island, gave it -the name and privileges of a city, and styled it the capital of -Sweden. As he was a man of great power and influence, many more people -were attracted to it. This city then took the place of Upsala, which -before had been the seat of government. Birger Jarl's son, Waldemar, -completed the work of his father, and enclosed the three islands -within one large fortification. It soon became the centre of trade in -Sweden, but could not possibly increase much in area, as the rovers -did not encourage any building on the mainland, and would give no -protection to anyone who dwelt outside the city walls. - -Stockholm had many ups and downs, and when Gustavus Vasa, the -Liberator of Sweden, entered the city on Midsummer's Day, 1523, he -found it in ruins, and only 308 families left to form the population. -Under his care life became more secure, and from this time the -population gradually increased, until it became, as it is now, a very -large and thickly populated city. - -Now the city has extended its boundaries north and south of the site -of the ancient fortress, and where it stood the Royal Palace now -stands, and commands the whole city, as its predecessor did of old. It -presents a very pleasing aspect, as the streets are very broad and the -squares very deep. There are many handsome public buildings and -private dwelling-houses. You see here what, in a marked degree, is a -special feature of Swedish towns, large areas planted with trees and -flowers, for the Stockholmers are very fond of what is beautiful in -nature. They are always, when opportunity affords, adding to their -planted spaces. Nearly one half of the area of the whole city is -utilized as parks and gardens. The city has a great many flower-shops, -and the flower-trade is one of the most thriving of all its trades. - -In the summer, with the forest, which extends right up to the city -boundary, and the gardens and parks presenting a great wealth of -colour, a charming picture meets your eye. - -Another feature of Stockholm is her waterways. Wherever you go, you -are continually getting a peep of them. Every street seems to lead to -a quay. Thus, while trams are numerous, little steamboats are seen in -great numbers. They take you quickly from one place to another, and -more directly than the tram. In winter, when the whole lake is frozen -over, they form a most direct means of communication between the -different parts of the city, as well as a large playground for those -who indulge in skating. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -STOCKHOLM--II - - -We have been reading about the rise of the city. Let us have a look at -some of the sights. - -First of all we must visit the Royal Palace. It is a most imposing -building as it stands on a height overlooking a very deep square. It -is very large, as anyone can tell from the fact that when the late -King had his Jubilee in 1897, all the foreign princes with their -retinues were accommodated in it. The King and Queen and the Crown -Prince, when in Stockholm, live here. - -Every Tuesday forenoon the King gives an audience to any of his -subjects who may desire it. If anyone has any grievance to complain -of, or any request to make, he can do it in private to the King. - -When the King is in the country in the summer months, many of the -rooms can be seen by the public. They are, as one would expect, large -and beautifully decorated. To most people the Armoury and Royal Robe -Chamber are the most interesting, as there you can see so many relics -and robes which belonged to famous Kings and Queens of days gone by. -Here are the blood-stained shirt worn by Gustavus Adolphus when he -was killed at Lützen, and the uniform and hat worn by Charles XII. -when he was shot at Frederikshald. - -During the Thirty Years' War, a great many went from England and -Scotland to fight in the army of Gustavus Adolphus. You are reminded -of this when you look at the walls of the Riddarhus (House of Nobles), -which are covered with the coats of arms of the Swedish nobility. -Amongst them can be seen a very large number of English and Scotch -names. The nobles used to meet here as a chamber on the affairs of the -country. They no longer do so. There is still to be seen the Speaker's -chair presented to Gustavus Vasa in 1527. It is made of ivory, and in -it several Bible scenes are inlaid with ebony. - -We have seen that Sweden was at one time a great military power in -Europe. We notice this if we visit the Riddarholm Church. The interior -is adorned with 6,000 flags and trophies taken in war. This is the -burial-place of the Kings of Sweden. - -Very many years ago, when Stockholm was built chiefly of wood, St. -Jacob's Church was a kind of signal station. There used to be in its -tower a watchman, who would sing out the hours of night: - - "The hour is ten: - God's mighty hand - Preserve our town - From fire and brand: - The hour is ten." - -If he saw any sign of fire, instead of his rhyme he sounded a rattle -as a warning. - - [Illustration: GUSTAVUS VASA'S ENTRY INTO STOCKHOLM, MIDSUMMER, - 1532. _Carl Larsson._] - -Things are now altering all over the country. Many old customs are -passing away. To remind the young Swede of the past, Dr. Hazelius -conceived the idea of a museum in which would be preserved old Swedish -costumes, furniture, and other things which speak of the past. This -has been arranged in a very large building. In connection with it -there is a large open-air museum called Skansen. It encloses about 40 -acres. It is a Sweden in miniature. - -Buildings have been brought from every part of Sweden. You can see -peasants, farms, and houses, summer houses of different centuries, and -a Lapp encampment, where real Lapps live during the summer. The -attendants are dressed in the old national costumes. On several days -of the week you can see the graceful national dances and games. There -are animals, wild and domestic, from all parts of Scandinavia, and -plants and flowers are well represented. It is a most interesting -place to visit, and gives a peep into the whole of Sweden. - -Let us now visit the streets, and see something of the life of the -people. They live chiefly in flats, and the street-door is generally -shut. When the bell is rung, the porter, who is within, touches a -spring, which opens the door mechanically. There are lifts as well as -broad staircases to the different flats. The houses are heated in -winter by means of large porcelain stoves, in which wood is burned. -The wood is brought to the harbour in boats from the surrounding -districts, and some houses have a man whose daily rôle is to go to the -boat, buy the wood, cut it into pieces, and feed the stoves. Very -often he is a Dalecarlian, and wears his native costume. - -There are many open-air markets. Let us visit the fish-market. Here -the fish is brought alive in tanks in the boats. We may see the owner -of the boat, as we pass along, lift up fish for our inspection. As a -rule, fish is sold alive. - -The boys of this country are accustomed to see at railway-stations -automatic machines for the sale of chocolates and a few other small -things. In Sweden you find automatic restaurants. They require no -waiters. There is a large room with tables, and on each wall are -labels over different slots, such as "Tea," "Coffee," "Milk," etc. You -put your coin in, and, putting your cup or tumbler under a tap, get -what you want. There are some restaurants that also supply a hot lunch -after the same manner. These are very popular, as they save time and -tips. - -In the winter there are in the squares of Stockholm huge cisterns -containing hot milk, which is sold in the same automatic way. - -The Swedes are very fond of music, and in their beautiful Opera-House -one can hear the finest concerts for a comparatively low price. - -Altogether Stockholm is a most attractive city. The beauty of its -situation, combined with the culture and friendliness of its people, -are bound to awake our admiration. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -THE SWEDES AT WORK - - -Let us now have a peep at the Swede at work, for, although he is very -fond of pleasure, he is very hard-working and industrious, and is -taking a foremost place among the manufacturers of the world. - -Although only about one-tenth of the country is under cultivation, -nearly one-half of the people are engaged in the fields. The people -are very much devoted to the land. In most cases the farmer owns the -farm, and, with the aid of his family, he is able to cultivate all his -ground. Farming has changed very much of late years. A great deal of -grain used to be grown, but nowadays more attention is being paid to -rearing horses and cattle, and dairying. - -The farmers are very intelligent and well educated, and employ the -latest methods in their work. They have made the export of butter one -of their chief industries, and in most districts have erected -cooperative dairies. The carts go to the farms, collect the produce, -and take it to a central dairy, where the butter is made. This is -exported in large quantities, with eggs, to Denmark and Britain. They -employ the finest machinery, and have well-constructed dairies. Most -of their appliances are made in Sweden. In Stockholm they manufacture -a separator which is sent to every part of the world. It was invented -by a Swede--Gustaf de Laval--and separates the cream from the milk. - -In some parts of Sweden farmers have to be very economical as well as -industrious. Sometimes you will see little yellow bundles hanging on -trees; these are birch twigs, and when they are thoroughly dried, they -are used as fodder for the sheep. In the Far North, the sun is not -sufficiently strong to make hay, so they erect poles which look like -fences, and as soon as the grass is cut, they hang it on these poles, -and allow it to remain until it is cured. - -As you sail round the coast and call at the various ports, you see -great piles of timber, and ships from many countries loading planks; -also huge ponds full of logs, and close at hand sawmills cutting them. -You are here reminded that one of Sweden's greatest industries is the -timber trade. You would expect this if you travel through the country, -for everywhere you see large forests, especially in the Norrland. More -than half of the country is covered with forest. This industry is -greatly helped by the many rivers. Men go up in the winter to these -forests to cut down the trees, which they haul over the snow, when it -is deep upon the ground, to the rivers. They have to make special -roads in the woods for this, and in the spring the logs are allowed to -float down the river to its mouth, where the sawmills are. Sometimes -they take months, sometimes they take years. Very few are lost. At -other times the logs are formed into huge rafts, which are kept in the -centre of the stream by men with long poles. They usually try to get -them done before the end of the summer, or they will need to return -the following year, as the rivers are usually frozen every winter. As -soon as they arrive at the river's mouth, they are taken to the -sawmills, and cut into planks of various sizes. - -What is done with all this timber? A large number of the thin, short -logs are sent to Britain to be props in the pits. Perhaps, when you -are travelling in the train, the sleepers on which the rails are laid -may have come from Sweden. A great deal of the timber is crushed into -pulp, and then used for the making of paper. The Swedes make doors and -windows for us. They even export wooden houses. - -Another great industry is match-making. They do a wonderful thing in -this industry. A Swede invented a so-called "complete machine," which -reduces the manual labour very much. The match material, which is -first cut by other machines, is placed into the "complete machine" at -one end, and comes out at the other ready made and packed in boxes, -without a workman having to touch them. A machine can turn out 40,000 -boxes in eleven hours. - -These are but a few of the occupations of the Swedes. Very many are -employed at iron and steel works. There are great ore-mines in the -North. Swedish steel is considered the best in the world, and is used -greatly in Sheffield for the well-known cutlery. Employment is found -for great numbers of men in granite quarries, in manufacturing -machinery, and in weaving cloth. Glass-works are numerous, and a great -deal of very fine cut glass is exported. It would take too long to -mention all the industries. Enough has been said to show that Sweden -is not a poor but a rich and progressive country. There is work for -all. The one drawback is the want of coal, which has all to be -imported, but the Swedes are trying to utilize the waterfalls, and -make them provide the power to drive machinery. When that is -accomplished they will be able to take a place in the front rank of -iron and steel-producing countries. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -THE SWEDES AT PLAY - - -The Swedes are very fond of pleasure, and enter into all kinds of -indoor and outdoor games with great spirit. They have many similar to -ours, but there are some which our boys and girls might enjoy. - -Blind-man's buff is played in several ways. Here is one. The person -who has been blindfolded is placed in the middle of the room with a -cane in his hand, while all the company form a ring round him with -joined hands. The blind man points towards one in the ring. This one -must rise and put his mouth to one end of the cane, while the blind -man puts his to the other. They hold a conversation with one another -as if speaking through the telephone. The blind man guesses who has -been talking to him, and if successful, changes places with his -victim. - -Sometimes the company sit on chairs in a circle. The blind man walks -round and round, and at last sits down in the lap of someone who, if -he guesses the name correctly, is blindfolded in turn. If not -correct, the one on whose lap he is sitting gives him a slap and -sends him on, but no words are spoken. - - [Illustration: A SUMMER DAY IN NORTH SWEDEN. _Carl Johansson._] - -Still another game: it is called _Låna låna eld_. All the company -except one are again seated in a circle. Then the one standing walks -up to one of the company, and rapping on the ground with a cane, says: -"Låna, låna, eld" (Lend, lend fire). The other replies: "Gå till nästa -grannen" (Go to the next neighbour). He goes on doing this time after -time, and always getting the same reply. While he is doing this the -company are exchanging chairs with one another by rushing across the -room. The questioner has to watch his chance to get into a chair that -is vacant. The one deprived of the chair has then to get the cane and -go in search of fire. - -The Swedes, like all Scandinavians, have a great love of dancing, and -very many of their games take the form of a simple dance. On a summer -evening you can see the villagers of all ages, men and women, boys and -girls, playing at dancing games on the village green to the -accompaniment of a fiddle or accordion. A very pretty picture they -present if they are, as often happens in Dalecarlia, dressed in their -bright native costume. While dancing they generally sing a description -of each movement as they perform it. One dance has been handed down -from time immemorial. It is named _Väfva Vadmal_ (Weaving Homespun). -No doubt it arose from the fact that the Swedish women used to weave -the cloth for all their clothes. The players imitate the weaving of -cloth at the old handloom. Some represent the bobbins; others the warp -and woof. In and out they go until they form a bale. Then they stand -still for a time, after which they reverse, unwind themselves, and -then disperse. This is a peculiarly Swedish game, and is enjoyed by -every rank of Swedish society. - -There is another dancing game called _Skära Hafre_ (Reaping Oats). In -this they tell in word and gesture how the farmer sows the seed, cuts -the grain, binds it into sheaves, and threshes it. - -Another favourite game is _Enke-leken_ (The Widower's Game). This is -played in the open air, as a rule, by children and young people. They -stand in pairs, a boy and girl, in a long row, one pair behind the -other. There is an odd one who represents the widower. He stands in -front with his back to the rest, so that he cannot see them. When he -calls, "Enke-leken, enke-leken, sista paret ut" (The widower game, -last pair out), this pair separate and run forward in a wide circle. -The widower runs forward at the same time with a view to catching the -girl, but as he is not allowed to look backward, he does not know on -which side she may come. Very often the pair change places, and the -widower comes in contact with the boy instead of the girl. If he -succeed, however, in catching the girl, the other boy takes his place; -if not, he has to try again. The pair that has just been out join the -ranks at the front. - -In all these games there is never seen any roughness, and the players -gain a great deal of health and pleasure in a very simple and natural -way. - -Then there are what one might call the manly sports. The Swedes have -ever excelled in these. The old Viking warriors are spoken of in the -old legends as being often engaged in feats of strength and skill with -the sword and javelin, bow and arrow, in jumping and wrestling, and -other favourite sports. They have handed down this trait to the -present generation. Nowadays the Swedes practise curling, football, -acquired from other countries, and a system of gymnastics invented by -a Swede, which is being used by nearly every nation in the world. - -The summer sports are very much the same as found in other countries, -but it is in winter sports that most interest is taken. - -There is the national sport of skating. The Swedes excel all others -in the rapidity and gracefulness of their skating. This is owing to -the large number of lakes and rivers, and the severe winters, when the -boys and girls have every opportunity of learning to skate. But see! -What are these boys going to do? They have a pair of skates and a -piece of canvas rolled upon poles. They are skate-sailors. They -stretch the canvas on the poles, and putting the cross-bar over the -shoulder, have a sail which enables them to go before the wind or tack -as they wish, just as the sailor does at sea. They can sometimes go at -the rate of forty miles an hour with great ease. They present a most -beautiful sight as the white sails flit here and there over the ice, -and gleam in the rays of the winter's sun. Sometimes you see -ice-yachts gliding over the frozen water guided by a powerful rudder. - -There is also tobogganing. Wherever there is a hill, you see a large -number of boys and girls enjoying themselves. Down the slope they come -at a rapid rate on a little sledge, which the owner guides with his -foot used as a rudder behind. Sometimes, in the public parks, there -are specially prepared ice-courses, which require great skill to ride -on, or the consequences may be serious. - -The most popular and a very useful form of sport is skiing. The skis -are two long pieces of thin wood, which are fastened to the boots. By -means of these the peasant can travel very quickly from one farm to -another, when there is sufficient depth of snow. As a sport it is most -exhilarating, but it must be acquired when one is young. Hear those -shouts from the woods! Some young men and women have come from the -town. They have gone up the slope in a zigzag manner, and along the -crest of the hill. Now they are coming down, slowly at first, then -faster and faster. See how gracefully they glide with feet placed -closely together. They have ever to be on the lookout, for they have -often to sweep round a bush, bend under an overhanging branch, or jump -a precipice. Those who are able to ski can take many short cuts, as -they do not need to keep to the roads, but can often go to their -destination as the crow flies. The speed is very great. Very many of -the soldiers are trained regularly to go on skis. - -A common form of sport is for ski-runners, gliding on their skis, to -be drawn along by a horse. They hold on to a rope attached to the -traces, and as there is little weight on the horse, a speed of ten -miles an hour can be kept up for long distances. Sometimes eight or -ten soldiers may be seen moving quickly along the road by means of -ropes attached to the saddle of a mounted soldier. - -The Lapps are the best ski-runners in the world. They are all trained -from their very early days to travel by this means. A Lapp, under -favourable conditions, can travel 162 miles in twenty-four hours. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -EDUCATION IN SWEDEN - - -No children are more fortunate than the Swedish in education. They -have everything done to make their schooldays bright and happy, as -well as useful. Their teachers are highly educated, and are very much -respected, if they do not get large salaries. The school-house in -every town is a very important and conspicuous building. - -Unless a child is very well educated at home, he must go to the public -school. He does not pay any fees. All education is free, even at the -University, but not everyone can go there. Only those who can pass a -very stiff examination are allowed to enter. The children go at the -age of seven and remain at school until they are fourteen. They get a -very thorough training in very much the same subjects as in our -schools. There are no holidays on Saturdays for Swedish children. -Thirty-six hours every week they must attend. When parents are found -to be careless so that their children are suffering, the State -sometimes takes the little ones to train and educate. - -In the districts where the population is very scattered, a teacher -comes for four months in the year, and then proceeds to another -district. There is no district where education is not provided. - -There are some features that may be of interest to a stranger. In many -of the schools there are splendid libraries. No doubt most of the -books are printed in Swedish, but there are also a large number in -English, French, and German. They are not there for appearance, but -are actually read, as the children begin at a very early age to learn -these languages. The Swedes are splendid linguists, and are very proud -of being able to speak English. - -They are known all over the world as being very good gymnasts, and -every school has a completely equipped gymnasium. Very often the -instructor is a military officer. Their system is being universally -adopted, and many readers of this book will have learned the same -exercises as the Swedish boys and girls. - -One of the most interesting features of school-life is the study of -nature. No doubt this is because one of the greatest botanists that -ever lived was a Swede--Linnæus. He devised the system of botany, -which is in use throughout the whole world. From a very early age -the children go out into the woods and collect plants, flowers, and -leaves of trees. They are taught not only the names of the different -plants, but also the science of botany. The result is that from -childhood they are taught to take an intelligent interest in nature, -and learn to love what is beautiful in gardens, field, and forest. - - [Illustration: GUNNAR HALLSTRÖM. MARS 1904 Björnö A SKI-RUNNER - _Gunnar Hallström._] - -The Swedes are also taught to be cleanly. Everywhere can be seen a -great many lakes, and in the bright summer days the children bathe and -learn to swim in them. In the winter this is impossible, as the cold -is very great and the lakes are frozen over. In some schools a large -room is set apart as a bathroom. There is no large bath or swimming -pond, but a very simple arrangement of a number of tubs in a circle. A -child goes into each. They wash and scrub one another. It is a method -for securing cleanliness easily carried out, and does not cost much. -The result is health. The children never look shabby. A Swedish mother -may be poor, but she takes a pride in seeing her children neat and -tidy. - -Nor does she forget to teach them politeness. Every boy is taught to -be very respectful to his elders. On the street he lifts his cap to -anyone he knows, whether he be rich or poor. - -When the boy is fifteen, he may choose to go to a trade, or to a -higher school with a view to entering a learned profession. - -At this age, if he intends to become a Government servant, lawyer, -doctor, or minister, he must be confirmed. This is a very important -step in his life. On the day of confirmation he is examined in the -church, and has publicly to answer questions. It is a great day for -him. He is now a man, and is very proud of being looked upon as such. - -After he has been at the higher school for some years, and wishes to -enter the University, he must pass a very hard examination, and when -he learns that he has been successful, he is very happy and bright. He -comes out of the school wearing the white cap which all students have, -and decked with wreaths and flowers bestowed on him by doting parents -and admiring friends. - -There are large Universities in Sweden both at Upsala and Lund. The -former is the larger and older of the two, but they are both well -known. The student has the same long and hard course as at school. -Very few students finish their course till they are between -twenty-five and thirty years of age, and up to this time, if they wish -to be successful, must be faithful to their study. There are no very -young doctors in Sweden. They generally do not begin to practise till -they are about twenty-eight years of age. Still, they find some time -for social life at the University towns. They enter into the gaiety of -the place, and are great favourites with the townspeople. The students -from each district or nation have a club-room for social gatherings. -They are very proud of their own district, and in processions march -together with a banner in front. They are very fond of singing. The -students of Upsala have a world-wide reputation, as at the Paris -Exhibition of 1897 they took the first prize when choirs from every -part of the world were competing. - -The Swedes as a class are intelligent and polite, and are taking a -prominent part in the world's affairs. We should expect this when we -know how well they are educated. - - - - -CHAPTER X - -DALECARLIA - - -No one touring in Sweden should omit a visit to the province of -Dalecarlia. It is a most lovely district, inhabited by a people who -stick to their old customs and national dress. They are very proud and -manly, and have done a great deal for the freedom of their country. - -The chief town is Falun, which is well known because of its copper -mine, said to be the oldest in Europe, as it has been worked more than -600 years. It is named the Treasury of Sweden. More than £5,000,000 -worth of copper has been extracted. It was here Gustavus Vasa worked -when he was in hiding from the Danes, and got his men and money to -fight against them. The fumes from the works have spoiled the -vegetation in the neighbourhood; but travel in the train a short -distance, and you soon get a sight of what the Dalecarlians are very -proud of--Lake Siljan, the Eye of Dalecarlia. Down the slopes of the -mountain the train proceeds until it reaches Rättvik on the edge of -the lake. You seem in a new world, for you see young and old, men, -women, and children, going about in costumes similar to what their -grandfathers and grandmothers wore. In some parts of Sweden you see -people wearing these costumes on Sundays and gala-days, but in -Dalecarlia they wear them at church and at market. The men have a long -coat which extends below the knee, knee-breeches, white woollen -stockings, and shoes. On the head they wear a low-crowned felt hat. -From the neck there hangs a long leather apron. The women wear a skirt -of a blue colour with a green border. The bodice is of a dark colour, -and is only as high as a broad belt, laced together in front with -bright red ribbons, the eyelets being of silver. They have also a -white blouse. Round the neck is a red kerchief with a bright pattern, -fastened at the throat with an old-fashioned silver brooch. The apron -is dark, with transverse stripes of blue, red, yellow, and white. The -cap is a black, peaked one, with red trimming round it, and red -tassels hanging down. It is something in shape like a helmet. In -winter they wear a short jacket made of sheepskin. Their clothes-store -is a treasure-house. - -In days gone by the sound of the shuttle used to be heard in every -Dalecarlian home, as the women used to spin and weave all the cloth -required for the clothes of the family. They now buy from the -merchant. The Dalecarlians are of a mechanical turn of mind. They make -watches and baskets, and the women do hair-work. The natives travel -over the country to sell their wares. The Rättvikians excel chiefly as -painters, and they cover the walls of their houses with paintings -instead of putting up hangings. - -The traveller usually proceeds by steamer from Rättvik to Leksand, -where on a Sunday a most interesting sight is seen. - -Looking across the lake, you see many large boats, driven through the -water by means of eight or ten pairs of oars. Each of them may contain -forty, sixty, or eighty men, women, and children. They present a very -picturesque appearance with their national costumes. They are very -similar to the Rättvikians, except that the women wear a tight-fitting -cap--that of the married women white, of the unmarried red. The little -boys are dressed in yellow-coloured clothes, and the little girls in -the same as their older sisters. They soon land and wend their way to -church through a beautiful avenue of trees. Here they are joined by -others, who have walked or driven in carts for perhaps ten miles. They -are regular church-goers. The church is not only a religious, but -also a social centre. Sunday is newspaper day. The gossip of the -whole district is then retailed. The men meet in crowds in the avenue, -and the women and children wander in the churchyard until the service -begins. It is like fairyland to see the bright costumes moving among -the luxuriant foliage on a Swedish summer day. - -The church at Leksand is an imposing structure, in the shape of a -Greek cross, with a Russian ball-spire. It was built by some Swedes -who had been prisoners in Russia, and it holds about 5,000 people. The -sight is most impressive when it is crowded, men and women sitting -apart. The sermons must at one time have been longer or the people not -so devout, as in some country churches can be seen a relic of bygone -days in a long stick, with which an official, "the church awakener," -used to poke anyone who fell asleep. When the service is over, the -horses are yoked, the boats pushed into the water, and the vast crowd -is soon scattered. - -There is, however, one place of interest that must not be passed -over--Mora, a quiet little spot on the northern shore of Lake Siljan. -It was here that the standard of revolt against the Danes was raised -by the men of Mora under Gustavus Vasa. Near the church is the mound -where he made his famous speech that roused them to action. Dear to -the heart of the Swede is the national memorial at Mora. It is -situated about a mile from the village, and is a little square -building lit from the roof. In the middle of the stone floor is the -cellar in which Gustavus Vasa hid when the Danes were pursuing him. -The walls are covered with paintings of scenes in the life of the -patriot, and one of them represents what took place here. You see the -open trap-door, Gustavus Vasa descending into the cellar with an axe -in his hand, the woman lifting a tub to cover the trap, and through -the window you can see the Danes in the distance on horseback. - -No one need be at a loss as to the meaning of any of the pictures. The -custodian has a description written in English, French, and German. He -usually succeeds in finding out the nationality of the visitor, and -gives him the proper copy. - -It is with reluctance one leaves Dalecarlia, with its proud and -independent people, and its bright and smiling valleys. - - [Illustration: "BRASKULLA" _Anders Zorn._ (A PEASANT GIRL FROM - MORA).] - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -CUSTOMS - - -The Swedes are a most hospitable and kindly people, and enjoy -entertaining. They do not mask their feelings, for as soon as a -visitor arrives, he is made to feel at home with the words, "Välkommen -till oss" (Welcome to us). - -If it should be about the hour for dinner, he will be invited to -partake with the family. If he be a foreigner, a surprise awaits him, -for, on entering the dining-room, instead of sitting down at once to -dinner, he is led up to a side-table. On this he sees bread, butter, -and cheese, and numerous small dishes with anchovies, smoked salmon, -caviare, and different kinds of meats, hot and cold, too numerous to -mention. This is called _smörgosbord_. He is expected to take a piece -of bread and butter and whatever of the other dishes he may feel -inclined for. This is considered an appetizer for the proper meal, -which no stranger must forget. - -Then the company assembles round the dinnertable behind the chairs, -and a very nice custom is observed. One of the children, perhaps one -who can only lisp a prayer, asks God's blessing on the food, at which -the gentlemen bow, and the ladies curtsey. After dinner there is -another beautiful custom, when the children go up to the parents, kiss -their hands, and say: "Tack för maten" (Thanks for food). If the guest -is present, he shakes hands with the host and hostess, at the same -time expressing his thanks for the meal. - -Weddings in every country are always looked upon with interest, but a -Swedish country wedding is one especially interesting and picturesque. -It is an event which demands the attention of the district for several -days. A large number of people are invited. This means considerable -expense, but the heads of the several families invited make a -contribution of provisions. - -If the wedding be in the church, the bride, with a silver crown on her -head and pearls round her neck, goes there on horseback. She is -escorted during the festivities by a number of musicians and young men -also mounted. The hats of the men are decorated with ribbons of bright -colours and with flowers. Some of them carry guns, which they -frequently fire, and this is supposed to be a reminiscence of those -days when a bride had to be protected from the attack of a hostile -clan. The rest of the company follow in carriages or on foot. At the -church there is a triumphal arch through which all pass. After the -ceremony is over, the procession returns to the bride's home for the -rejoicings. Here again is a triumphal arch of green boughs. The young -men ride three times furiously round a maypole, while whips are -cracked and guns are fired. - -Then comes a banquet, which usually lasts for three or four hours, -after which there come games and dancing, not for a few hours, but -often for three days and three nights, during which the festivities -continue without a break. Among the more wealthy they may last five or -six days. If the provisions are exhausted, the hostess introduces a -highly spiced rice-pudding. This information is understood, and soon, -after great cheering, the company separates. The feasting is not yet -over, as the young couple are expected to entertain all who have been -present. - -A pretty custom observed in some districts is "dancing the crown off -the head of the bride." The bride is blindfolded. The maidens present -form a ring and dance round her, until she takes the crown off her -head and places it haphazard on the head of one of the girls. She on -whom this honour has been conferred will be the next to wear a crown -at her own wedding. The girl places it on the head of another, and so -on, till it has rested on the head of everyone. - -If you enter a Swedish peasant's home, you will see one or more long -poles attached to the roof. On these are strung a number of very thin -round discs. This is the rye bread, which is the only kind eaten by -the peasant, and is also found at the King's table. The peasantry do -not eat much new bread. They only bake four times a year, and each -baking lasts for three months. - -A very common dish in a Swedish peasant's house is solid sour milk. It -is placed on the table in a wooden dish. After the housewife has added -some sugar, all sit round the table with wooden spoons, and each marks -out for himself what he considers his rightful share. After this they -all set to work, and do not move until the whole is eaten. - -The Swedes are very fond of open-air life. They practically spend the -summer out of doors. Where you find a band, there is usually a large -crowd of men, women, and children, sitting at little tables drinking -their punch, beer, and coffee. The Swedes are very fond of family -life. The father, mother, and children usually go out together. On -Sunday afternoons and feast-days every town is a scene of gaiety. All -the inhabitants give themselves up to pleasure. There is no rowdyism, -but a great deal of enjoyment. The innate refinement of the Swede -checks any inclination there might be for anything rough or uncouth. -He shows this when he goes into a shop. Very many of those behind the -counters are young women. The Swede takes off his hat to them, and -wishes them "Good-morning" as pleasantly as he would to his greatest -lady-friends. - -One thing a Swede is never without, and that is his coffee. You may -not always get good tea, but you will always get good coffee. The -peasants will drink it as often as five times a day. They are also -fond of sugar. They have a strange custom of putting a piece of sugar -between the teeth, and sweetening the coffee as it passes through the -sugar into their mouths. They call this _dricka på bit_. They seem to -think they get more enjoyment from the sugar in this way than if it -were dissolved in the coffee. - -There is one other custom that people in England would like to know -about. It is the festival of Santa Lucia. There are several stories as -to its origin. Some say that it refers to the shortest day, though it -falls on December 13. Lucia night, according to the peasants, is so -long that the ox from hunger bites the crib. "Lucia night is mortal -long," said the cow. "It's as good as two," replied the ram. "That's -true," put in the goat; "it's a pity it exists." Some speak of a -beautiful virgin named Lucia, who was about to be married. She had -given all her dowry to the Christians because of their courage. When -her lover heard of this, he informed against her. She was condemned in -the end to death by burning. When the fire was placed around her, she -remained unhurt, and did not die until a sword was thrust into her -throat. - -The day is observed in a very quaint fashion. At a very early hour in -the morning, perhaps as early as three or four, the sleeper is -awakened, to find a maiden dressed in white standing by the bedside. -Her hair is streaming down her back. On her head, which is encircled -with a wreath of green leaves, are a number of lighted tapers. In her -hands are a salver with coffee and cakes, which must be partaken of in -bed. After this, in some houses, all get out of bed and sit down to a -big feast. Afterwards they shoot a fish by the aid of a torch composed -of slips of dry and resinous wood. - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -THE ISLAND OF GOTHLAND AND TOWN OF VISBY - - -"In the days of old," says the saga, "a fair and beautiful island, low -and dim, floated on the sea by night, and the people beheld it as they -sailed to and fro; but each morning at sunrise it disappeared beneath -the waves, until the waning twilight had come again, when it would -rise and float over the surface of the Östersjön (Baltic) as before." - -No one dared to land upon it, though the belief was general that it -would become fixed if a fire was lighted there. - -Thjelvar, with his men, finally landed in a little bay of the floating -island, and lighted a fire, and the island became stationary. The name -of this daring man, Thjelvar, means "the Industrious." - -Those with him seemed to be possessed with the same spirit, for in a -short time they were building ships and trading with every part of -Europe. They soon became wealthy, not only by fair means but also by -foul, as they did not hesitate to plunder whenever they had an -opportunity. Their forays led to reprisals. Their wealth excited envy. -They did not feel strong enough of themselves, and, as Sweden was the -nearest country, they proposed to put themselves under her protection, -and sent an ambassador to negotiate. When he arrived at Upsala, then -the capital of Sweden, the King and Queen were sitting at meat. He was -not received at once, nor even asked to sit down. After he had been -standing some time at the entrance, the King said: "What news from -Gothland?" "Nothing," replied the ambassador, "except that a mare on -the island has foaled three colts at a birth." "Ah," said the King, -"what does the third colt do when the other two are sucking?" "He does -as I do," replied the ambassador, "He stands and looks on." Thereupon -the King laughed loudly, and invited the ambassador to share the meal. -In the end a treaty was arranged, and Gothland became a part of -Sweden. - -This was in 890. In 1030 Olaf compelled the inhabitants of the island -to become Christian, and be baptized, but by this time a city had -sprung up where the heathens of old used to offer up sacrifices. This -city was named Visby, "the city of the place of sacrifice." It is -situated on the west side of the island, and gradually rose in -importance, until it became the chief trading centre of Europe. There -was a great trade with Russia, and by means of the rivers of that -country the treasures of the East were brought to Visby. The fame and -the stories of her wealth and commerce spread far and wide. Soon -merchants came from all parts of Europe to share her wealth. Very many -of them removed their business entirely to Visby. - - [Illustration: IN DAYS OF OLD. _Ankarcrona._] - -The wealth of the city was fabulous. The common saying was that the -merchants used to weigh their gold with 20 pound weights, and play -with choicest jewels. The women spun with silver distaffs. The pigs -ate out of silver troughs. - -Their houses, of which many are remaining to this day, were narrow and -lofty, with their gable-ends to the streets. Their rooms were large -with high ceilings, and most beautifully decorated. In one house can -be seen a room with walls and roof completely covered with scenes from -the Bible. The doors in many cases were made of copper, and the -window-frames gilded. - -The merchants lived most luxuriously, and were most exclusive in their -social life. No artisans, except bakers and goldsmiths, were allowed -to live within the city walls. - -Their wealth and commerce gave them great authority, so that their -sea-laws were adopted by European countries generally. They form the -basis of the laws of the sea of the present day. - -These were rough times, when might was right, and the inhabitants of -Visby had always to be prepared for an attack upon the city, for the -surrounding nations looked upon her wealth with an envious eye. One of -the sorest experiences she had to undergo was at the hand of King -Waldemar of Denmark. He defeated them in battle, tore down a part of -the walls, entered with his army in battle array, and, placing three -very large ale-vats in the square, commanded that these be filled with -gold and silver within three hours. This was done with remarkable -rapidity, and King Waldemar sailed with his gold and silver, as well -as much spoil from the churches. The booty, however, never reached -Denmark, as the vessels carrying it foundered in a storm. From this -hour Visby began to decline in importance, and is now known chiefly as -a summer resort and haunt of tourists who wish to learn something of -this medieval town. - -Notwithstanding all their love of wealth, the inhabitants of Visby did -not seem to be stingy in giving to the Church, as no less than sixteen -churches were built. All still exist, but are in ruins except one, the -Cathedral or St. Mary's Church which is quite complete. They are all -large buildings. In the great square can be seen the Church of St. -Catherine, which belonged to the abbey of a Franciscan Order. In the -nave are twelve pillars, not in a straight line. They make a lasting -impression on the visitor, they are so delicate in their tracery and -overgrown with the ivy and the vine. The roof of the chancel has -fallen, and now only the arches which unite the pillars to each other -and to the outer walls remain. - -Not very far from here are seen two churches. They are called -_syskonkyrkorna_, or sister-churches, built side by side. They each -possess immense towers, which are supposed to have been fitted up at -one time for defence. If the story is true, the sisters did not love -one another; indeed, it is said that they hated one another so much -that they could not worship God in the same church, and each had to -have a separate place of worship built for herself. - -The largest of all the churches is St. Nicholas. On the western gable -of it can be seen two twelve-leaved rosette-like bricks. They look -like windows. In the centre of each, tradition says, were set most -precious carbuncle stones, that shone in the dark like fire. These -served as guides to the sailors on the Baltic. Soldiers guarded them -night and day, and no one was allowed to approach them after sunset on -pain of death. King Waldemar, when he sacked Visby, removed the sacred -carbuncles. Over the spot where the ship that conveyed them went -down, a remarkable gleam is said to be seen. The Gothland fishermen -say that it is the radiance of the carbuncles now lying in the depths -of the sea. - -Another remarkable feature of Visby is the city wall. It completely -encircles the city, and is the only example in Scandinavia that has -lasted to our time. It dates from early in the thirteenth century. It -was gradually made stronger by adding to its height and its thickness, -and also by building thirty-six towers, two to guard each gate. Many -of these have a name. The powder-tower was named Silfverhättan -(Silver-cap). Its shining roof is now replaced by dull tiles. One is -used as a prison, and is named "Cæsar." Another is called Jungfru -Tornet (the Maiden's Tower). It is said that a young girl betrayed -this city to King Waldemar. As a punishment she was built into the -wall of the tower. Near a gate on the south side of the city can be -seen a cross put up to the memory of the 1,800 men of Visby who were -killed when that King took the city. On it is an inscription in Latin, -still legible--"In the year 1361, the Tuesday after St. James's day, -the Gothlanders fell before the gates of Visby by the hands of the -Danes. They lie buried here. Pray for them." - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -FAIRY-TALES - - -I wonder how children would do without fairy-tales. Every country and -every age has these, and devours them eagerly, old as they are. -Perhaps it would be interesting to inquire how they arose. It is said -that a Queen saw her children looking very sad, although they had -everything that she could think of for their happiness. The truth was -they did not know what they wanted. She said, "If only I were a child -again, I would know what is the secret of a child's happiness." While -she was thinking a bird flew into her lap, but only for a moment. As -soon as it had gone, she saw a golden egg. "Perhaps," she thought, -"this egg will contain what will give my children contentment, and -remove their sadness." She broke the egg, and out came the wonderful -bird, Imagination, the Popular Tale. Now the children were happy and -bright. For the tale took them far away, but brought them home again -as soon as they desired. So it came about that not only children, but -those who are older in years, found a peculiar joy and happiness in -reading the story, provided they come in the spirit of the child. Here -is one well known to Swedish children: - - -THE CRAFTY BOY AND THE STUPID GIANT - -Once upon a time there was a boy who watched goats in the forest. He -was alone, and one day had to pass a large dwelling. He had been -enjoying himself, shouting and singing, as boys will do when in the -woods, when suddenly he saw coming from the house a giant, of great -size and fierce to look upon. The giant was very angry because he had -been disturbed in his sleep, and the boy became so frightened that he -at once took to his heels, and never stopped running till he got home. -In the evening his mother had been making cheese, and he took a piece -that was newly made, and put it in his wallet. Next morning he had -again to pass the giant's house. The giant, when he saw him, took up a -piece of stone, crushed it into atoms, let it fall upon the ground, -and said: "If you again disturb me with your noise, I will crush you -as I have crushed this stone." The boy, who was by this time quite -bold, took up the cheese he had brought in his wallet, and squeezing -the whey out of it, said to the giant: "I will squeeze thee as I -squeeze the water out of this stone." When the giant found out that -the boy was so strong, he went away in great fear and trembling to his -abode. - -However, they soon met again, and then the boy suggested a trial of -strength. The test was who could throw an axe so high in the air that -it would never fall down again. The giant tried many times, but the -axe always fell down again. The boy began to mock him, saying: "I -thought you were a very strong man, but you are not. See how I can -throw the axe." With that he took the axe and swinging it as if with -great force, very cleverly let it slide into the wallet on his back. -The giant did not see the trick, and, looking in vain for the axe -falling down again, thought the boy must be wonderfully strong. - -The giant was so much impressed with the boy's strength, that he asked -him to enter his service. The boy's first duty was to assist with the -felling of a tree. "I will hold while you fell," said the boy. But as -the boy was not tall enough to reach to the top of the trunk, the -giant bent it down to the level of the boy. As soon as the boy seized -it, the tree at once rebounded and carried the boy out of sight. In a -short time he came back lame, but saying nothing. "Why did you not -hold?" said the giant. "Would you be brave enough to make a jump like -that?" said the boy. "No," replied the giant. "Well, then, if you are -so afraid you can hold and cut for yourself." - -Soon the giant had cut down the tree. How was it to be carried home? -It was arranged that the giant should carry the thin end, and the boy -the thick one. The giant went in front, and raised his end on his -shoulder. The boy behind called him to move it farther forward. Soon -the giant had it so balanced on his shoulder, that he had the whole -weight of it. After walking for some time, he shouted: "Are you not -tired yet?" The boy, who had seated himself on his end of the tree, -answered: "Certainly not." When they arrived at the house, the giant -was quite worn out. "Are you not tired even yet?" said the giant. The -boy answered: "You must not think so little tires me. I could quite -easily have carried it myself." - -The giant was amazed, and wondered what he would try next. He -suggested they should thresh grain. "Let us do it very early in the -morning, before we get our breakfast," said the boy. The giant agreed. -When they began the boy received a flail he could not lift, so he took -up a stick and beat the ground while the giant threshed. As they had -been working in the dark, the boy's device had not been seen, and -to escape detection, when daylight was approaching, he suggested that -they should cease work for breakfast. "Yes," said the giant, "it has -been very hard work." - - [Illustration: A GIRL WITH "KICKER." _Carl Larsson._] - -Some time after the giant sent the boy to plough, and told him that -when the dog came, he was to loose the oxen, bring them home, and put -them in their stable. He brought them home, but as there was no -entrance, he did not know how to get them in. As he could not lift the -house like the giant, he made up his mind to kill the oxen, cut up -their carcases, and put them in in this way. On his return the giant -asked if he had put the oxen in the stall. "Yes," said the boy, "I got -them in, although I divided them." - -The giant now began to think the boy was too dangerous to have in the -house, and, on the advice of his wife, resolved to put him to death -while he slept. The boy was suspicious that something was going to -happen, and when night came, put the churn in the bed, while he -himself hid behind the door. In came the giant; down came the club, so -that the cream from the churn bespattered all his face. "Ha, ha, ha! I -have struck him so that his brains have bespattered the wall," said -the giant afterwards to his wife. The two now lay down to rest in -peace, believing they had rid themselves for ever of this terrible -boy. - -What a surprise they got next morning, when the boy appeared as if -nothing had happened. "What," said the giant, "art thou not dead? I -thought I had killed thee with my club." The boy answered: "Now that -explains it. I had imagined that I felt a flea biting me in the -night-time." - -At the close of the day a large basin of porridge was placed between -them. "What do you say to our trying to see who will eat most?" said -the boy. The giant was quite willing. The boy was too cunning. He had -tied a large bag before his chest, and let large quantities of the -porridge fall into it. When the giant came to a standstill, he saw the -boy still continuing with as good an appetite as when he began. "How -can a little fellow like you eat so much?" said the giant. "Father, I -will soon show you. When I have eaten as much as I can, I do so, and -begin again." He then ripped up the bag, and the porridge ran out. The -giant took up a knife in imitation of the boy, but was soon dead. - -Then the boy gathered all the money he could get, and left by night. -So ends the story of the crafty boy and the stupid giant. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -JUL, OR CHRISTMAS - - -Jul is the great festival in Sweden. The festivities begin on -Christmas Eve--Julafton--and continue for thirteen days. Since early -autumn everyone has been sewing and embroidering beautiful presents. -Amongst young girls there is a custom that for one night before Jul -they should sit up the whole night and sew. This is looked forward to -as a special pleasure, and two or three friends are invited to join -the party. - -A few days before Christmas the streets begin to be crowded, and young -and old throng the shops. - -In the market-place you find stalls containing all sorts of -things--toys, clothing, and confectionery. Amongst the latter are -special ginger-cakes, shaped like different animals, especially pigs, -to commemorate the old boar that was sacrificed in heathen times. -These stalls are greatly patronized by the country people. - -Rich and poor, during Jul, are anxious to be kind and liberal to their -family and friends, remembering each member with some token of their -thought and love. Even the animal world is not forgotten. Horses and -cows get a special feed in their stalls, and on every house in the -country, as well as many in the towns, you will see a pole erected, to -which is fixed a sheaf of unthreshed grain as a treat for small birds -that, in this hard season, have great difficulty in getting food. -There is a saying in Sweden that on the anniversary of the coming of -our Lord into the world all creatures should have cause to rejoice. - -Within doors great preparations are being made. Servants are busy -cleaning and scrubbing everything that can be scrubbed. In the kitchen -a great amount of cooking is taking place, and six or seven different -kinds of bread have to be baked, as, in the country, each servant and -tenant are presented with a pile of special Jul-bread. - -Jul at the present day, as in olden times, is a great festival with -the Swedish peasantry. They have a special reverence for this season. -No work that can be avoided will be done on this day. - -"There is a belief which has existed for ages that, during Christmas, -there is a second of time when not only the sun itself, but everything -movable in creation, becomes stationary, and in consequence, at that -particular moment, which no one can foretell, if a person should be -occupied in any way, that which he is then about is sure to go -wrong." - -On Christmas Eve, to show good feeling in a practical way, it is -customary for the whole family to assemble in the kitchen, where a -large pot is boiling, containing ham and sausages highly spiced. -Mingling with the servants, you walk along plate in hand, and taking a -slice of Christmas-bread, you dip it in the boiling fat in the pot, -and eat together. This is called _doppa i grytan_ (to dip in the pot). - -In the afternoon the older members of the family are engaged in -decorating the Christmas-tree, which is done in great secrecy from the -children. Bright golden and silver stars, coloured glass globes, and -confectionery are hung on the tree, as well as baskets made of -coloured paper, containing raisins and almonds. Then, to every branch -and twig, a taper is fastened. The national flag waves from the top, -and the other nations are represented by smaller flags fixed here and -there over the tree. When all is ready, and the many tapers on the -tree are lit, as well as the chandeliers and lamps in the room, the -great moment arrives for the children. When the door is opened, they -are almost dazzled by the sea of light, and in rapture they rush to -gaze at the beautiful tree, which rises from floor to ceiling, a mass -of light and beauty. Their attention is somewhat divided, as their -eyes are constantly turning to the door, as if they expected someone -to arrive. Before long the door opens, and a small, old man and woman -enter. These are the Christmas gnomes. The man has a long white beard -and a red cowl, and carries in his hand a bell, which he rings, and -the old woman carries a large basket containing parcels neatly tied up -and sealed, addressed to different persons, but with no name of the -givers. Often there are poetry and amusing rhymes written on the -parcels. The old woman hands the parcels to those to whom they are -addressed, much to the amusement of the whole company. There is much -guessing as to who the donor may be, and the excitement is tremendous -as the old pair vanish from the room to return with fresh supplies. At -last the children are sent off to the servants' quarters, each -carrying a load of parcels for them. When the _Jul-klappan_ (Christmas -presents) have been duly admired, refreshments are brought in, such as -fruits and confects, and after this music and games are indulged in, -and later on all join hands and dance in a ring round the tree, -singing lustily. Between nine and ten the company sit down to a -Christmas supper. The first course is _lut_-fish, which is ling or -cod-fish, specially prepared weeks before in lime. When cooked and -ready, it is white and transparent, almost like a jelly. Seasoned with -pepper and salt, and eaten with potatoes and melted butter, it is -delicious. The next course is always pig in some form or other, either -head or ham. Then is produced a large fat goose. Last of all comes the -all-important rice-porridge, in which is hidden an almond, and whoever -gets it will be lucky for the next year. From the King's palace to the -peasant's hut you will find the very same kind of supper. However poor -people may be, they always find means for a small Christmas-tree. - -On Christmas morning, before daybreak, crowds flock to church for -early service. In the country it is the custom for people to join -together and form a procession, each carrying a torch. This makes a -pretty sight, especially in hilly districts, when you are able to see -at the same time several processions wending their way to church. On -arriving there, all the torches are flung in a heap, which lights up -the churchyard. The church is brilliantly illuminated by hundreds of -candles, even the pews having their own candles. After the service is -over the people make a rush for home. You ask why? It is an old -superstition that he who arrives home first will reap his grain first. - -The rest of the day is spent quietly in the home circle. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -MIDSUMMER - - -The festival of Midsummer, like that of Jul, has come down from old -heathen times, and next to Christmas is the greatest festival of the -year in Scandinavia. - -On this day the sun is at the height of its grandeur, conquering -darkness. The night is the shortest in the year, just a glorious -twilight, which, in a few hours, is merged into dawn. - -Summer and winter have each their special enjoyments for those who -know where to look for them. In Sweden, Midsummer Day is looked -forward to especially by the young people. - -Great preparations are made in town and country. In the country the -houses have to undergo a special cleaning, and the rooms are decorated -with branches of trees and flowers. In Stockholm there is what is -called a "Leaf-market," where not only boughs and flowers are exposed, -but also May-poles. In the harbour can be seen a large number of boats -laden with branches. - -It is a wonderful sight you see on this day. The houses, both -inside and out, are decorated with green branches. Every train, -steamer, and vehicle is dressed in the same fashion, and even every -horse has its head ornamented with branches of leaves. Little children -all have bunches of flowers in their hands, and very often a small -May-pole, while older ones go out early in the morning to picnic, and -return for the dancing in the evening. - - [Illustration: DANCE ON MIDSUMMER'S EVE. _Anders Zorn._] - -The centre of attraction is the May-pole, similar to what is found in -many English villages in the month of May, to celebrate the return of -spring; but the Swedish word _Maj_ does not in this instance refer to -the month May, it means green leaf. - -What a bustle there has been to get this pole ready! It has to be -decorated. Early in the morning the young girls awaken with the birds, -and hurry into the woods to gather flowers and boughs of the silver -birch, to bind wreaths and garlands for the May-pole. The birch is the -queen of the forest in the summer, just as the dark, sombre fir is the -queen of the winter. - -The raising of the pole is an important event in the day's -proceedings, and amidst shouting and music it is put into position. -The people form themselves in a large ring round it, and to the sound -of the violin or accordion, they dance the whole night long. How -happy they look! They forget everything--all their troubles, and even -the old grandmother may be seen dancing in the ring with her little -grandchild of three years. By-and-by they sit down to supper, and one -might think the festivities were drawing to an end; but no! the meal -is no sooner over than the dancing is resumed and continued with more -or less energy through the night. No one ever seems to think of going -to bed. - -There are a number of superstitions and customs in connection with -this festival. - -On the hills in the neighbourhood of towns in North Sweden people -light fires at this season. These are but a reminiscence of the -"pyre," built on consecrated hills by the old heathen priests, and -fired on Midsummer Eve in honour of the sun-god, the mild and -beautiful Balder. Nowadays these fires are not in honour of Balder, -but to prepare coffee. Many families do this. Each family has its own -fire. They put the coffee on the fire when the sun is setting, but, as -in these northern regions at this season of the year the sun takes -little rest, he has risen again before the coffee has boiled. - -Sometimes people gather different kinds of flowers to make up into a -bouquet called a Midsummer _qvost_. Whoever does it, usually a young -girl, must go alone. If she should encounter anyone, she must only -answer by signs, and must not open her mouth under any circumstances -until she gets home again. She places the bouquet under her pillow, -and never fails to see in her dream her future lover. - -This _qvost_ has many wonderful qualities. It is hung up in the -cattle-house, and if allowed to remain there protects the animals for -a whole year against the _troll_ (witches). - -In some places a medicine is made from it, which will cure all -diseases. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -SOME WELL-KNOWN SWEDES - - -Carl Linnæus was the son of a poor clergyman, and was born at Råshult, -in the province of Småland, in 1707. His father wished him to become a -clergyman, but from infancy he showed a great love for flowers, and -made up his mind to study medicine. He was a student at Upsala, where -he underwent great privations, as his father allowed him only eight -pounds per year. He so persevered that he attracted the attention of -the professors, and was commissioned to study the plant-life of -Swedish Lapland. - -Poverty drove him to Holland for his degree as doctor of medicine. He -found a friend there in a Dutch banker, Clifford, who enabled him to -publish many works, in one of which he made known his classification -of plants. At this time he visited London, and when walking on a -common near the City saw furze for the first time. He was so attracted -by the golden bloom of the flower that he fell down on his knees and -admired it. He tried in vain to cultivate it in Sweden. On his return -to Stockholm, he gained a reputation as a physician, but gave up his -profession to be professor of botany in the University where he had -studied. He attracted students from all parts, and gained a world-wide -reputation, his class increasing from five to hundreds. He was made a -noble, and when he died, aged seventy-one years, the King spoke from -the throne of his death as being a national calamity. - -Another man of whom Sweden is justly proud is Baron Johan Jakob -Berzelius, one of the greatest of modern chemists. He is said to rank -next to Linnæus in science in Sweden. He introduced a set of symbols -on which those in use at the present day are based. The science of -chemistry owes a great deal to the accuracy and extent of his -researches. It is the wonder of many how he could accomplish so much -as he did. He had, like Linnæus, the gift of perseverance. - -Another well-known Swede is Alfred Nobel, who was born in Stockholm in -1833, and died in 1896. When young, he went with his father to Russia -to help him in the manufacture of submarine mines and torpedoes. He -took out patents for a gasometer and for an apparatus for measuring -liquid. He will, however, always be remembered as the inventor of -dynamite. Many precious lives were lost in the process. It was finally -produced as dynamite gum in 1876. When one thinks of dynamite, -immediately there are brought to the mind war, with all its horrors, -and anarchism, with its bombs and nefarious practices; but it has been -one of the greatest aids to man in his engineering triumphs. By its -aid mountains have been tunnelled and rocks under the water more -easily removed. - -To show how extensively it is being used, in 1870 the total world's -output did not exceed eleven tons. At the present day it annual -tonnage is to be reckoned by the hundred thousand. Works for its -manufacture are all over the world. - -Alfred Nobel left a large fortune, and so arranged that a large sum -should be set aside for five annual prizes of £8,000 each for men who -had distinguished themselves in science, literature, and the promotion -of peace. Men from all parts of the world can compete, and the awards -are made by a committee of Scandinavians. - -Mention must be made of Baron Adolf Nordenskiold (1832-1907), who -reached the highest latitude in the Arctic region till then attained -by any ship, and in the _Vega_ spent two years accomplishing the -North-East Passage. Otto Nordenskiold, a nephew of Baron Adolf, also -sailed in the northern seas, and after two years' exploration -discovered King Oscar Land; and Sven Hedin, who traversed the -countries of Central Asia, and brought to light the secrets of past -ages. - -Sweden stands high in music and song. She has produced many gifted -musicians, but none greater than Jenny Lind, the Swedish Nightingale. -She was born in Stockholm of very humble parentage. One day she, as a -child, was heard singing to her cat. The listener was so entranced -that she was the means of Jenny Lind being brought to the director of -the Royal Opera House, who saw the quality of her voice, and arranged -that she should be educated at Government expense. At the age of -eighteen she made her first appearance. Wherever she went she -captivated the people. She became the favourite of Stockholm, London, -Berlin, and New York. Only eleven years did she remain in opera, and -from religious convictions she resolved to confine herself to the -concert-room. She is known as a singer, but her generosity and -unselfishness will never be forgotten. In one tour in America her -share of the profits was £35,000. More than half of that she spent in -charity in her native land. In one year she raised £10,000 in England -to help deserving institutions. - -Many touching anecdotes of her life are told, to show the character of -the woman. A young man was very ill in Copenhagen when Jenny Lind was -filling the city with excitement. His young wife was full of regrets -that her husband should not hear her. Jenny heard of the desire, and -went on a Sunday afternoon and charmed the two young people with her -voice. - -As she was sitting one day on the sands, with her Bible on her knee, -and looking at the setting sun, a friend said to her: "Oh, how is it -that you ever came to abandon the stage at the very height of your -success?" "When every day," was the quiet answer, "it made me think -less of _this_" (laying a finger on the Bible), "and nothing at all of -_that_" (pointing out to the sunset), "what else could I do?" The -spiritual was the supreme in her. She died a naturalized British -subject in her country-home in the Malvern Hills in 1887. - - -BILLING AND SONS, LTD., PRINTERS, GUILDFORD - - - * * * * * - - -BEAUTIFUL BOOKS FOR - -BOYS & GIRLS - -WITH ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR SIMILAR TO THOSE IN THIS VOLUME - -PRICE 1/= NET EACH - -"TALES OF ENGLISH MINSTERS" SERIES - -By ELIZABETH GRIERSON - -EACH VOLUME CONTAINING 6 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS - -(2 OF THEM IN COLOUR) - -_Large crown 8vo., paper boards, with picture in colour on the cover_ - - CANTERBURY - DURHAM - ELY - LINCOLN - ST. ALBANS - ST. PAUL'S - YORK - - -PRICE 1/6 NET EACH - -RED CAP TALES FROM SCOTT - -STOLEN FROM THE TREASURE-CHEST OF THE WIZARD OF THE NORTH - -By S. R. CROCKETT - -EACH VOLUME CONTAINING 8 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR - -_Large crown 8vo., cloth, with picture in colour on the cover_ - - WAVERLEY - GUY MANNERING - THE ANTIQUARY - ROB ROY - IVANHOE - THE PIRATE, and - A LEGEND OF MONTROSE - FORTUNES OF NIGEL - QUENTIN DURWARD - -PUBLISHED BY A. AND C. 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BLACK, SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W.</p> <img src="images/inside_cover_b.jpg" width="395" height="600" alt="" /> </div> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Peeps at many lands: Sweden, by -William Liddle and Mrs. Liddle - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PEEPS AT MANY LANDS: SWEDEN *** - -***** This file should be named 43454-h.htm or 43454-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/4/5/43454/ - -Produced by Ann Jury, Matthew Wheaton and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Peeps at many lands: Sweden - -Author: William Liddle - Mrs. Liddle - -Illustrator: Anders Zorn - Carl Larsson - -Release Date: August 12, 2013 [EBook #43454] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PEEPS AT MANY LANDS: SWEDEN *** - - - - -Produced by Ann Jury, Matthew Wheaton and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - VOLUMES UNIFORM WITH THIS - - - PEEPS AT MANY LANDS AND CITIES - - EACH CONTAINING 12 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR - - AUSTRALIA - BELGIUM - BERLIN - BURMA - CANADA - CEYLON - CHINA - CORSICA - DENMARK - EDINBURGH - EGYPT - ENGLAND - FINLAND - FRANCE - GERMANY - GREECE - HOLLAND - HOLY LAND - HUNGARY - ICELAND - INDIA - IRELAND - ITALY - JAMAICA - JAPAN - KASHMIR - KOREA - LONDON - MOROCCO - NEW YORK - NEW ZEALAND - NORWAY - PARIS - PORTUGAL - ROME - RUSSIA - SCOTLAND - SIAM - SOUTH AFRICA - SOUTH SEAS - SPAIN - SWEDEN - SWITZERLAND - TURKEY - WALES - - - PEEPS AT NATURE - - WILD FLOWERS AND THEIR WONDERFUL WAYS - BRITISH LAND MAMMALS - BIRD LIFE OF THE SEASONS - THE HEAVENS - - - PEEPS AT HISTORY - - CANADA - INDIA - JAPAN - SCOTLAND - - - PEEPS AT GREAT RAILWAYS - - THE LONDON AND NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY - THE NORTH-EASTERN AND GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAYS - - - PUBLISHED BY ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK - SOHO SQUARE, LONDON, W. - - - AGENTS - - AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY - 64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK - - AUSTRALASIA OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS - 205 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE - - CANADA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD. - ST. MARTIN'S HOUSE, 70 BOND STREET, TORONTO - - INDIA MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD. - MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY - 309 BOW BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA - - - PEEPS AT MANY LANDS - - - SWEDEN - - [Illustration: A FLODA GIRL. _Anders Zorn._] - - - PEEPS AT MANY LANDS - - - - - SWEDEN - - BY - - REV. WM. LIDDLE, M.A., B.D. - - AND - - MRS. LIDDLE - - - WITH TWELVE FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS IN COLOUR - - BY - - ANDERS ZORN, CARL LARSSON, - AND OTHERS - - - LONDON - ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK - 1911 - - - Transcriber's Note: Author's spelling, though often incorrect - has been maintained. - - - CONTENTS - - - CHAPTER PAGE - - I. SWEDISH HISTORY 1 - II. GOTHENBURG 10 - III. A SUMMER HOLIDAY AT MARSTRAND 15 - IV. ACROSS SWEDEN BY WATER 21 - V. STOCKHOLM--I. 26 - VI. STOCKHOLM--II. 31 - VII. THE SWEDES AT WORK 36 - VIII. THE SWEDES AT PLAY 40 - IX. EDUCATION IN SWEDEN 47 - X. DALECARLIA 52 - XI. CUSTOMS 57 - XII. THE ISLAND OF GOTHLAND AND TOWN OF VISBY 63 - XIII. FAIRY-TALES 69 - XIV. JUL, OR CHRISTMAS 75 - XV. MIDSUMMER 80 - XVI. SOME WELL-KNOWN SWEDES 84 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - - ARTIST. - - A FLODA GIRL _Anders Zorn_ _frontispiece_ - - FACING PAGE - - OUR COUNTRY _Otto Hesselbom_ 9 - - A SWEDISH SHEPHERDESS _Anders Zorn_ 16 - - SUMMER EVENING ON THE - WEST COAST OF SWEDEN _Oscar Hullgren_ 25 - - GUSTAVUS VASA'S ENTRY INTO - STOCKHOLM, MIDSUMMER, 1523 _Carl Larsson_ 32 - - A SUMMER DAY IN NORTH SWEDEN _Carl Johansson_ 41 - - A SKI-RUNNER _Hallstroem_ 48 - - "BRASKULLA," A PEASANT GIRL - FROM MORA _Anders Zorn_ 57 - - IN DAYS OF OLD _Ankarcrona_ 64 - - A GIRL WITH "KICKER" _Carl Larsson_ 73 - - DANCE ON MIDSUMMER'S EVE _Anders Zorn_ 80 - - A GIRL FROM RAeTTVIK " _on the cover_ - - _Sketch-Map of Sweden on p. viii._ - - - [Illustration: SKETCH-MAP OF SWEDEN.] - - - - -SWEDEN - - - - -CHAPTER I - -SWEDISH HISTORY - - -In one of the most beautiful and romantic districts of Sweden there is -one of the oldest copper-mines in the world. It is situated at Falun -in Dalecarlia. About 400 years ago a young man might have been seen -looking into the open mine. He was full of thought and anxiety, for -was not his country in the hands of the Danish King, Christian II., a -cruel tyrant? and was not he himself being pursued and driven to seek -concealment, as he was a direct descendant of the ancient Kings of -Sweden? He had suffered much, but had never given up hope. He stood -there thinking of his country's down-trodden condition, hopeful, -trustful, and resolute, resolving to deliver his native land from the -foreign yoke. He remembered how the miners had fought in days of old -for their country. He would rouse them so that they would do it again. -He donned the peasant costume, and became as one of themselves. He -worked alongside them in the mines, and soon became a great favourite -because of his bright, winning manner. He took every opportunity of -speaking to them of the subject that lay nearest to his heart--the -freedom of their native land. He told them of the massacre of many -nobles at Stockholm, of ladies of rank being thrown into the sea, of -boys being whipped to death, and of peasants hanged for the slightest -offence at the order of King Christian, the Nero of the North. - -After working in the mine for some time, he was recognized. He then -took service with an old college friend, Anders Persson, of Rankhytta, -who sympathized with him, but was unable to help him. He sent him to -Squire Arendt Persson, who, eager to win the reward offered for -Gustavus Vasa's capture, betrayed him to the Danish soldiers. Arendt's -wife suspected treachery, and let the young man down with a towel from -a window in the loft to the snow-covered ground outside, where a -trusty servant was waiting with a sledge to convey him to a place of -safety. When Persson arrived next morning with soldiers, he found the -bird flown. - -On another occasion he took refuge in a hut in the forest. The Danes -had so entirely encircled the district, that Gustavus seemed -completely in their power. A friend, however, hid him in a load of -straw, and proceeded towards Raettvik. They were surrounded by Danish -soldiers, who stopped the cart and roughly thrust their sharp pikes -into the straw. Gustavus was pierced in the side by a spear. The pain -was great, but he endured it without a groan. Satisfied he could not -be there, the soldiers rode on. Blood, however, was seen on the -ground. To account for this, the driver had cut his horse's leg close -down to the hoof. - -As soon as he recovered from this wound, he went with renewed vigour -and zeal from hut to hut, exhorting the people to rise and throw off -the Danish yoke. This led him into great difficulties and great -suffering. He was often in want of food, and afraid to ask shelter. At -one time he had scarcely a moment to conceal himself under a fallen -tree before a party of Danish soldiers galloped up. - -At last he made his way to Dalecarlia, where he had made his first -venture. The Danish soldiers again got on his track. He rushed to the -house of a peasant, and found the wife at her spinning-wheel. When she -knew who he was, she put him into a dark cellar underneath the -kitchen-floor, and covered the trap-door with a large brewing vat. -The soldiers were baffled, and although they were strongly of opinion -that Gustavus was there, left without him, but not without having been -entertained by the good woman, who had never lost her presence of -mind. - -Gustavus Vasa, after many trials and disappointments, seemed to think -that he must give up his scheme, and resolved to leave the country for -Norway. He was away in a lonely spot, and preparing to cross the -mountains, when he heard voices calling to him. He turned round, and -saw some Dalecarlians on skis, who had been sent by their companions -to recall him, as they had resolved to rise against the Danes under -his leadership. Gladly he agreed to their request, and returned to -Mora, where, on a Sunday after church, he addressed the men, -recounting the miseries and sufferings of the land under the Danes. -"He has a manly voice, and a winning tongue," said an old man, "and -see the north wind blows. Let us attend to what he says." The north -wind blowing was considered a good omen--a sign that God would be -gracious. Gustavus was soon chosen lord and chieftain over Dalecarlia, -and the whole realm of Sweden. After he had collected an army of -several hundred men, he marched to Falun, seized the property of the -Danish and German merchants, and distributed it among his men. -Infected by his enthusiasm and encouraged by his early success, the -Swedes assembled round his banner in large numbers. The Danes were -struck by their courage and hardihood. On one occasion a Danish -General asked how a large force of Swedes could be supported in so -wild a country. A Swede, hearing the remark, said that the -Dalecarlians were content to drink water, and, if need be, eat bread -made from the bark of a tree. Thereupon the Dane said: "A people who -eat wood and drink water, the devil himself cannot subdue," much less -any other. The Swedes at first were poorly armed, but with bows and -arrows, axes, and clubs, used with an intense love of Gustavus and -country, they repeatedly defeated the Danes, who, after two years' -hard fighting, were driven out of Sweden. On Midsummer's Eve, June 23, -1523, Gustavus made a triumphant entry into Stockholm as King. He -reigned for thirty years. His memory is fresh to-day in Sweden as the -liberator of the country from the Danish yoke. - -Another name that is honoured by every true Swede, and by many who are -not Swedes, is Gustavus Adolphus I. He is chiefly and justly held in -honour because of what he did for the Protestant cause in Europe. The -Protestant Princes had lost heart, as they had suffered very much at -the hands of Generals Tilly and Wallenstein. Gustavus resolved to go -to the aid of the Princes. With only 13,000 Swedes he set sail, but as -soon as he reached Germany, large numbers of men joined his army. -Emperor Ferdinand, when he heard of his arrival, said: "Oh, we have -another little enemy come against us!" His courtiers replied with a -laugh, and said: "The Snow King will melt as he approaches the -southern sun." He did not melt, but proved an iron King, as he drove -everyone before him. Soon he rallied the Protestant forces, and made -his power felt from the Polar Sea to the Alps. - -The Emperor's Generals found in him more than a match. He was cut off, -however, very early in life. He was with his devoted men before Luetzen -preparing for a great battle. As usual, they prepared by worshipping -God. They sang the King's hymn, "Fear not, little flock," and then -engaged in prayer. The next day the King mounted his horse to lead his -army. When his officers saw him, he was without his armour. They urged -him to put it on. "God is my cuirass," said the King, and galloped -into the thick of the fight. It was a desperate fight, and a critical -moment, when his riderless horse was seen rushing madly out of the -fray. Gustavus Adolphus was dead. He had died in the hour of victory. -He was not only a great man, but also a good man. He believed in God's -willingness to help the right. "To pray often is almost to conquer," -was a favourite saying of his. - -Charles XII. was another warrior-King of Sweden, and was one of -Europe's greatest and youngest of soldiers. At the age of fifteen, -when most boys are thinking of amusement, he ascended the throne of -Sweden after the death of his father, and a few months later took the -reins of government into his hand and placed himself at the head of -his army. He was possessed of great energy, very courageous--perhaps -oftentimes foolhardy--but too ambitious of winning glory. Within -twelve months, when he was only nineteen years of age, he had to -encounter Denmark, Russia, and Poland. He first so attacked Denmark -that the King had to sue for peace. On a November morning, with 8,000 -Swedes, he attacked 50,000 Russians under the walls of Narva, and -inflicted on them a great defeat. He then dethroned the King of Poland -and put another in his place. His hatred of Russia was his downfall. -In 1708 he again invaded that country. He spent the winter in an -impoverished and hostile land, and when the Czar, Peter the Great, -with 70,000 men, attacked him, he had but 23,000 worn-out and -destitute men. He was defeated, and fled to Turkey, where he found a -refuge; but at the end of 1715 he returned to Sweden. Notwithstanding -his reverses, his passion for fighting led him to attack Norway in -1716 and 1718, when he was killed at Frederikshald at the early age of -thirty-six. - -He is one of the heroes of Sweden. He called upon his men to suffer -much, which they did willingly, as they were devoted to him, because -of his courage, his sympathy with them, and his ever-cheerful -countenance. He, however, exhausted the country, as the wars he -carried on drained her of her best blood, and emptied her treasury. -From this date Sweden was no longer one of the great military powers. -It was of Charles that Dr. Johnson wrote, in his "Vanity of Human -Wishes," the celebrated lines: - - "His fall was destin'd to a barren strand, - A petty fortress, and a dubious hand. - He left the name at which the world grew pale - To point a moral or adorn a tale." - -The last of this line of Kings was Charles XIII. He was an old, -infirm, and childless man when the question arose who should succeed -him. Napoleon Bonaparte was then carrying everything before him, -and among his Generals was one Bernadotte, who had risen from the -ranks, and proved himself to be one of the greatest powers in France -at that time. The Swedes chose him as Crown Prince, very much against -Napoleon's wish, who, no doubt, did not desire to lose so able a -General, but at last, probably thinking that Bernadotte would help him -in his schemes, said, "Well, go! may our fates be fulfilled." -Bernadotte soon after this took a leading part in Napoleon's -overthrow, and in 1818 ascended the throne of Sweden as Charles XIV. -He reigned for twenty-six years, and proved a wise ruler. His -great-grandson is the present King. - - [Illustration: OUR COUNTRY. _Otto Hesselbom._] - -The following is a list of Kings in our country contemporary with the -Swedish ones of whom a brief sketch has been given: - - SWEDEN. ENGLAND. SCOTLAND. - - Gustavus Vasa, {Henry VIII., 1509-1547} James V., 1513-1542 - 1523-1560 {Edward VI., 1547-1553} Mary, 1542-1567 - \ / - -----------v------------- - Gustavus Adolphus, {James I., 1603-1625 - 1611-1632 {Charles I., 1625-1649 - - Charles XII., {William and Mary, 1688-1702 - 1697-1718 {Anne, 1702-1714 - {George I., 1714-1727 - - {George III., 1760-1820 - Charles XIV., {George IV., 1820-1830 - 1818-1844 {William IV., 1830-1837 - {Victoria, 1837-1901 - - - - -CHAPTER II - -GOTHENBURG - - -Sweden is a country that is not very well known, but is one that is -most interesting to visit, because of the kindliness of the people and -beauty of the scenery as well as many historical associations. As soon -as you have reached the little island of Winga, with its lighthouse, -you are led to think of those days, long, long ago, when the Goths -left these shores in their Viking ships, to sweep the seas and found -kingdoms, or of those days when Gustavus Adolphus gathered the young -able-bodied men of the country, that they might go with him to Germany -to fight for the faith he loved, while the old men and women were left -to till the land. In many places you come across beautiful castles -containing great treasures which Gustavus and his Generals brought -home from the war. These were days when the Swedes were known -everywhere as heroes in the battle-field. Now, you do not think of -them so much as a warlike nation, but as one peaceful and industrious, -seeking to win honour and renown in the more peaceful field of -science, industry, and art. The poet Tegner says: - - "We have conquered a world at the point of our sword, - Let us now win the world by our song and our thought." - -The rough seas of the ocean are past. The calm waters of the Goeta have -been entered. You have still some hours to journey before you reach -Gothenburg, the second city of Sweden. The steamer threads its way -through a crowd of rocky islands, very bare, barren, and desolate, -with scarcely any vegetation. Here and there can be seen a lonely -fisherman's hut, painted red, and perhaps an occasional lighthouse. If -it be a Sunday afternoon or a holiday, there is plenty of life. There -in summer can be seen hundreds of men and women bathing in the water, -or basking in the open air on the banks of the river or on the -islands. Every now and then you meet steamers crowded with -pleasure-seekers, who are to spend the day at Marstrand, Lysekil, or -one of the numerous watering-places in this northern archipelago. -These islands, bare as they are, have a wonderful fascination. Spend a -short time on one of them, and you have a desire to repeat your visit. -There is the restfulness of the lonely island with the clear water -dashing upon the rocky shore. What glorious sunsets, as the sun sinks -into the ocean beyond Winga! - -As the steamer wends her way up the river, among other places you pass -Styrso, with its baths, sea-bathing, and many fine villas built by -Gothenburg merchants, and Langedrag, another of the numerous -sea-resorts. Your curiosity is aroused by the sight of large tin cans, -similar in appearance to those that convey the milk from the farms to -the towns in our country. These are water-cans. They have no fresh -water suitable for drinking in many of the islands, so that it has to -be carried every day from a town. Now you come to Elfsborg, an -abandoned and dismantled fort situated on an island rock in the -channel. The church of Majorna looks down upon you from the top of a -cliff. Then, after you pass the ship-building yard and factories, you -arrive at the Harbour of Gothenburg, the fortress of the Goeta. - -The origin of all towns is interesting. How did Gothenburg come into -existence? It dates back from the time of Gustavus Adolphus, who -founded it in 1619. We are told that he came on a visit to this -neighbourhood to decide upon the site of a new city. As he stood on -the top of the Mountain Otterhaellen, surrounded by his advisers and -officers, a small bird, chased by an eagle, flew to the feet of the -King for refuge. The King thought this was a message from heaven, and -there and then decided that the new city should be built at the foot -of the mountain. To keep the memory of the founder fresh, the -inhabitants have erected a statue of King Gustavus Adolphus in one of -the squares. It represents him with big boots, military cloak, hat -with feathers, and finger pointing out the site of the city. - -The steamer has arrived earlier than was expected. You cannot leave -the ship, as your friends are coming for you. You need not remain on -board because you cannot speak Swedish. Nearly every intelligent -inhabitant of Gothenburg can converse fluently in English. Wait -patiently for a little and the captain will allow you to telephone to -your friends from the ship. Very many ships have the telephone. By the -time the custom-house officer has examined and chalked your luggage, -the telephone connection has been made. It saves one's friends many a -long and weary wait for the uncertain arrival of a steamer. - -Thus you are introduced to one of the striking features of Swedish -life. The telephone is universal. Every place of business, of course, -has one, but also every private house, every farm, and even the little -kiosks on the street can boast of a connection. - -After landing, as you drive through the streets you are struck by the -Dutch appearance of the city. Canals intersect the streets. This is -because the first inhabitants were chiefly Dutch merchants, called -into the country by the King. - -The city makes a splendid impression on one, as the streets are well -laid out and the houses well built. - -How bright and fresh everything appears in the King's Port Avenue or -the Allee, lined, as they both are, with rows of spreading trees and -stately buildings! These are the fashionable streets and favourite -promenades, where can be seen the youth and beauty of Gothenburg. - -The visitor must also see a large public park--Slottskoegen--where the -working-men, with their wives and children, listen to the music of the -band. Then there are the Botanic Gardens, which are also a -pleasure-resort. - -You should not miss the market where you buy your fish alive. Near by -is the fruit-market, where you see the old women behind their stalls -of flowers, fruits, and vegetables. One wonders how they move, they -are enveloped in so much clothing. There, too, can be seen the little -boat with its load of firewood. Near by are tables laden with sausages -and hams. - - - - -CHAPTER III - -A SUMMER HOLIDAY AT MARSTRAND - - -I must now give you an idea how a holiday is spent at the seaside in -Sweden. Early in the year the question is, Where shall we spend the -summer? Three whole months of liberty and sunshine--this is what every -boy and girl looks forward to in Sweden, as the public schools all -close on the last days of May, or first days of June, and do not -reopen till the first day of September. - -This summer we decide to go to Marstrand, and I will try to give you -an idea how a day is spent there. On a fine morning in the first week -of June we board the pretty steamer _St. Erik_, and although we have -come early, we find it already crowded with families hurrying off to -the seaside, so great is the rush from town as soon as the schools are -closed. We have to sit wedged in between beds and perambulators, so -many and varied are the things it is necessary to take to a Swedish -watering-place. - -After the steamer has threaded its course for about two hours between -the numerous rocks and islands, we suddenly get a glimpse of the tower -of Marstrand's fortress, dominating the whole island, and overlooking -the stormy Kattegat, whose waves beat on its shores from all sides. -Then we steam up through a very narrow passage, cut in the rocks years -ago, to allow the gunboats of that day to retreat under the guns of -the fortress. - -Many a time, as a child, I used to watch with anxiety the progress of -the steamer when in that narrow canal, as the boat almost touches the -cliffs on either side, and it needs great skill to pilot her through -safely. - -Having passed through, we are in full view of Marstrand. What a -glamour rests over that sunny island to many a holiday-seeker! - -But as your eyes gaze upon it, you look in vain for any handsome -buildings or hotels; what you see is a lot of nicely-built houses with -red tiled roofs, all clustered closely together at the foot of the -fortress, which is built on the highest hill of the island. A -prominent feature is the white church with its square tower. The town -was founded in 1220 by the Norwegian King Hakon Hakonson. During the -sixteenth century it rose into importance as one of the best herring -fisheries of the North, but in these days it depends almost entirely -on the support of its summer visitors. We have now arrived at -Marstrand quay, which is crowded with happy, chattering people, -everyone eager to welcome some friend; or it may be they have just -come down to watch the arrival of the steamer, this being one of the -excitements of the island. - - [Illustration: A SWEDISH SHEPHERDESS. _Anders Zorn._] - -How delicious and soft the air is, full of the briny smell of the sea! -Excitement runs high amongst the young people, as they think of all -the delights of a summer at Marstrand, which are chiefly summed up in -the three words, bathing, sailing, and fishing. We soon get settled -into our home for the summer, a large, airy villa, standing in a shady -garden, not far from the battery, and having a fine view of the sea. - -Our first fishing expedition is planned to take place the day after -our arrival. We are wakened early in the morning, between five and six -o'clock. With eagerness we jump out of bed, and as we mean business -and not only pleasure, we don an old serge skirt, as we know we shall -get many a soaking of salt water from the spray of the waves as well -as from the dripping fish. After a hurried breakfast we rush down to -the quay, where we find our faithful old skipper Anders in his large, -comfortable sailing-boat, waiting for us. - -We sail right out into the open sea, where we drop anchor, and now the -sport begins. The fishing-lines are unwound, each line often having -about six hooks. These we bait with mussels. When luck is good, one -has not long to wait; we were soon all busy pulling up and letting -down our lines again as fast as we could, often getting two whiting or -plaice at a time. - -What fun it is to feel the tug and pull of the fish, but after a -couple of hours we are ready to return home, feeling almost giddy with -the strong air and the rocking of the boat; but we have enjoyed the -morning immensely, and come back full of joy and spirits. - -Another pleasure at Marstrand is the sailing. Along the quay -are moored several large boats with their white sails hoisted, -bearing various Northern names, such as _Thor_, _Balder_, _Gudrun_, -_Ingeborg_, etc. - -One hires these boats by the hour; the favourite sail is to the -well-known "Paternoster" ledges, a group of rocky islets distant four -miles from Marstrand, in beautiful open sea. These islands are much -dreaded by sailors, and on Hamnskaer, the largest of them, there is a -lighthouse, and below it is the light-keeper's house, a low stone -building, the only human dwelling-place on the island. There are also -two little towers; one holds the fog-bell, and the other the windmill -which winds the clock which gives the warning to the vessels that -pass near those fatal rocks. - -Often these pleasure sailings are extended for a whole day; the boats -are large and comfortable, and the skippers are skilful, reliable men. - -On the one half of Marstrand the town is built. It looks very quaint -and old with its narrow, cobbled streets. There are two parks, one -named Paradicet (the Paradise). This used to be the favourite -meeting-place for the visitors, but lately the park which surrounds -the Society House is the rendezvous, and near it are the public -bathing-houses. - -The sea-bathing house is built in a circle, and covers a good deal of -water, the depth of the water being about 3 feet. From the enclosure -there are doors that open out into the open sea for the more able -swimmers. Each bather has a small room to undress in, and all these -rooms lead out on to a gallery that runs entirely round the basin of -water, into which steps descend at convenient intervals. - -There is always a teacher of swimming to give lessons to those who do -not know how to swim, and there are not many boys and girls in Sweden -who do not learn this accomplishment very early. - -The climate of Marstrand is very mild and balmy. There is scarcely any -difference in the temperature between night and day; consequently, -the temperature of the sea is very even, and sea-bathing is enjoyed -till late in September. - -For the sight-seer the fortress "Carlsten," of Marstrand, is an object -of interest. It is still in a perfectly preserved condition. In some -places the walls are blasted out of the cliffs; in others built of -granite. From its high ramparts one gets a fine view of all the -surrounding islands and sea. - -Marstrand itself is all grey rock, with a very few trees. A favourite -walk is round the island. At one place you pass between high cliffs, a -very narrow passage called the Needle's Eye. The extreme point of the -island is called Ta Udden--the Cape of the Toe. This is a favourite -resort, as here you gaze right out on the sea, and when it is stormy -you see the grand spectacle of the waves dashing against the low -rocks. - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -ACROSS SWEDEN BY WATER - - -An interesting and comfortable way of reaching Stockholm from -Gothenburg is by canal. Between these two cities are many lakes, -including Vener, Vetter, Hjelmaer, and Malar. These are so linked -together by canals, that they form a waterway across Sweden through -which fairly large passenger and cargo-boats can go from the North Sea -to the Baltic. - -Travelling by canal-boat is, as a rule, tedious. It is interesting in -this case. The steamer passes through a country which has many towns, -churches, and castles that make you think of long, long ago, and also -many factories and workshops that speak of the present. You rarely -lose sight of vast expanses of water and great stretches of forest. In -the distance you can see a whitewashed parish church glistening in the -sun, here and there farmhouses and woodmen's huts nestling among the -trees, and sometimes the castle where the nobleman of the district -lives. How comfortable is the steamer, ever fresh-looking with its -white paint, with its nice dining-room, clean and tidy cabins, food -beautifully cooked, and well served by smart waitresses. Both mind and -body have enough to make the time pass pleasantly. - -To avoid the monotony of the first part of the journey, many join the -steamer at Gothenburg about midnight, and arrive at Trollhaettan early -in the morning. After morning coffee with _kringlor_ (ring-twisted) -biscuits, you leave the steamer while it passes through the locks, -eleven in number, and walk along the shaded paths until you come to -the falls. They consist of a series of six rapids, and are noted not -on account of their heights, but because of the volume of water. They -are playing a large part in the industrial life of the country, and -are destined to do much more. - -In a very short distance the steamer has ascended 144 feet, and once -more enters the Goeta River, along which it travels until it enters -Lake Vener, the largest lake in Scandinavia. It is very picturesque -and beautiful, with many houses and villages on its banks. More than -thirty rivers run into it. You very often meet steamers and -sailing-vessels, and for their safety a great many lighthouses have -been erected. It is not till you have passed through this lake that -you enter the Goeta Canal. - -The canal owes its origin to a desire in the sixteenth century to -connect Lake Vener with the Baltic. It was not until 1808 that Baltzar -von Platen, with the assistance of the English engineer Telford, -staked out the course, and the work was completed in 1820 at a cost of -about L1,000,000. Very many soldiers were engaged on it. The whole -distance is about 125 miles, which is a long distance to travel by -canal steamer, especially as passing through locks is slow, but the -beauty and variety of the scenery, as well as the sights, ancient and -modern, always keep up the interest. - -After entering the canal at Sjoetorp, the steamer proceeds very slowly, -always ascending, until it reaches Lake Vetter, 308 feet above the -Baltic. Next morning, when you come on deck, you find that you have -entered the lake itself. Away to the south is Sweden's greatest -fortress. You can see it in the distance with the tower surmounted by -the national flag. Lake Vetter is clear and blue and is beautiful to -look upon, but every mariner dreads it, as, without any warning, -violent storms arise. Sailing across in a south-easterly direction, -you come to a famous old town--Vadstena. How times have changed! -Before you rise the massive castle with its towers and spire. It was -built by Gustavus Vasa, who when fifty-eight years of age brought -here his third wife, Katarina Stenboch, who was only sixteen and a -very unwilling bride. The lake comes up to the walls and fills the -moat, which is used as a harbour. - -There are here remains of two churches, which owed their origin, as -the town did, to a convent founded by S. Brigitta in the sixteenth -century. She was a splendid woman, and drew to her side ladies of -noble birth from many countries. Life was very strict in the convent, -no one could possess any wealth, no intercourse was allowed with old -friends except on rare occasions. Every nun was driven out at the -Reformation, and not much is left to tell of their having lived there, -but in the town many women make beautiful lace of the old patterns the -nuns used to work. Often on board the steamer a woman brings a -basketful to sell. The steamer re-enters the canal at Motala, where -there are very large engineering works, at which all the science of -modern times is employed in turning out all sorts of engines and -mechanical appliances. - -When the steamer is entering Lake Roxen, we are again carried back to -the old days. Here is Vreta Closter, where of old kings were buried, -and here, too, can be seen several coffins in one of the chapels. -These contain the remains of members of the Douglas family, who fought -under Gustavus Adolphus. Their descendants have a high place among -Swedish nobility at the present day. - - [Illustration: SUMMER EVENING ON THE WEST COAST OF SWEDEN. - _Oscar Hullgren._] - -Lake Roxen is a beautiful sheet of clear crystal water, with steep, -rocky, and wooded shores on the one side, and fertile plains on the -other. There are many old ruins that command our attention. - -On the last morning of our trip, we wake up to find ourselves among -those pretty islands that dot the Baltic Sea off the Swedish coast. We -have, however, to pass through the Sodertelie Canal, which is entered -at a village of that name. Of this you can make no mistake, for on -board come women and children with baskets full of ring-twisted -biscuits, which are known all over the world. At last we enter Lake -Malar, surely one of the most beautiful of lakes, and with a warm sun -and blue sky overhead, no one can but feel at peace and full of -happiness. Soon the spires of Stockholm are visible, and the canal -voyage is over when we moor at the Riddarholm quay. - - - - -CHAPTER V - -STOCKHOLM--I - - -There are many beautiful cities in the world, and among them should be -placed Stockholm, the Venice of the North. This is due not only to the -enterprise of the people, but also very largely to its situation. What -a lovely picture, or series of pictures, the traveller sees as he -approaches Stockholm from the sea. The steamer wends its way among -hundreds of small islands, covered with luxuriant verdure and foliage. -On each of these islands brightly painted wooden houses are seen, -surrounded by pretty gardens of flowers. These are the country -residences of Stockholm's business men. Every such house has its -landing-stage, at which small but swift steamers call every morning -and evening, and it is a never-failing source of pleasure to see the -meetings and partings of father and family. The Swedes are very -demonstrative, and speed the parting guest with waving of handkerchief -until he is out of sight, although he may be returning in a few hours. - -As the steamer passes through Lake Malar, towards Stockholm, the -interest ever increases, as on its shores you see towns and villages, -old castles and modern villas, farm and meadow alternating with -huge masses of rock, while ever and anon you meet steamers and -sailing-ships on their way to and from the sea. At last the towers and -spires of Stockholm are in sight. - -The history of Stockholm is most interesting. There are many legends -that tell of the founding of the city. Here is one. In the twelfth -century some robbers, who came from the East, entered Lake Malar, -plundering and destroying the ancient city Sigtuna. The inhabitants -gathered together what was left them of their jewels, and having -placed them in a boat, made out of a log of wood (Swedish "stock"), -set it adrift on Lake Malar. Away down towards the Baltic it floated, -the despoiled ones following and wondering where it would find a -harbour. At last the log or stock landed at the island of Agne's Naes. -Here the gods had decided their new home should be, and the "holm" -where the "stock" harboured was named Stockholm. - -There is, however, more accurate information than this legend. In the -days when might was right, the Vikings made Lake Malar their -stronghold. Its great length, with its numerous arms, made a secure -anchorage for their ships. Thence they made forays in the Baltic. They -were often successful, but many a time were pursued in turn. To -prevent the entry of the pursuers, they built a fortress on the -central island which commands the entrance to the lake. This was in -the eleventh century. From this time Stockholm dates its origin. - -Around the fortress they built houses for the Vikings and their -families. Alongside these were built houses and stores for traders and -merchants. - -By the middle of the twelfth century there were a considerable number -of people gathered together round the fortress for commerce and -protection. - -There is one man honoured by the people of Stockholm as the founder of -the city. This was Birger Jarl, who was a King in all but name. He -built walls and towers round the houses on the largest island, gave it -the name and privileges of a city, and styled it the capital of -Sweden. As he was a man of great power and influence, many more people -were attracted to it. This city then took the place of Upsala, which -before had been the seat of government. Birger Jarl's son, Waldemar, -completed the work of his father, and enclosed the three islands -within one large fortification. It soon became the centre of trade in -Sweden, but could not possibly increase much in area, as the rovers -did not encourage any building on the mainland, and would give no -protection to anyone who dwelt outside the city walls. - -Stockholm had many ups and downs, and when Gustavus Vasa, the -Liberator of Sweden, entered the city on Midsummer's Day, 1523, he -found it in ruins, and only 308 families left to form the population. -Under his care life became more secure, and from this time the -population gradually increased, until it became, as it is now, a very -large and thickly populated city. - -Now the city has extended its boundaries north and south of the site -of the ancient fortress, and where it stood the Royal Palace now -stands, and commands the whole city, as its predecessor did of old. It -presents a very pleasing aspect, as the streets are very broad and the -squares very deep. There are many handsome public buildings and -private dwelling-houses. You see here what, in a marked degree, is a -special feature of Swedish towns, large areas planted with trees and -flowers, for the Stockholmers are very fond of what is beautiful in -nature. They are always, when opportunity affords, adding to their -planted spaces. Nearly one half of the area of the whole city is -utilized as parks and gardens. The city has a great many flower-shops, -and the flower-trade is one of the most thriving of all its trades. - -In the summer, with the forest, which extends right up to the city -boundary, and the gardens and parks presenting a great wealth of -colour, a charming picture meets your eye. - -Another feature of Stockholm is her waterways. Wherever you go, you -are continually getting a peep of them. Every street seems to lead to -a quay. Thus, while trams are numerous, little steamboats are seen in -great numbers. They take you quickly from one place to another, and -more directly than the tram. In winter, when the whole lake is frozen -over, they form a most direct means of communication between the -different parts of the city, as well as a large playground for those -who indulge in skating. - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -STOCKHOLM--II - - -We have been reading about the rise of the city. Let us have a look at -some of the sights. - -First of all we must visit the Royal Palace. It is a most imposing -building as it stands on a height overlooking a very deep square. It -is very large, as anyone can tell from the fact that when the late -King had his Jubilee in 1897, all the foreign princes with their -retinues were accommodated in it. The King and Queen and the Crown -Prince, when in Stockholm, live here. - -Every Tuesday forenoon the King gives an audience to any of his -subjects who may desire it. If anyone has any grievance to complain -of, or any request to make, he can do it in private to the King. - -When the King is in the country in the summer months, many of the -rooms can be seen by the public. They are, as one would expect, large -and beautifully decorated. To most people the Armoury and Royal Robe -Chamber are the most interesting, as there you can see so many relics -and robes which belonged to famous Kings and Queens of days gone by. -Here are the blood-stained shirt worn by Gustavus Adolphus when he -was killed at Luetzen, and the uniform and hat worn by Charles XII. -when he was shot at Frederikshald. - -During the Thirty Years' War, a great many went from England and -Scotland to fight in the army of Gustavus Adolphus. You are reminded -of this when you look at the walls of the Riddarhus (House of Nobles), -which are covered with the coats of arms of the Swedish nobility. -Amongst them can be seen a very large number of English and Scotch -names. The nobles used to meet here as a chamber on the affairs of the -country. They no longer do so. There is still to be seen the Speaker's -chair presented to Gustavus Vasa in 1527. It is made of ivory, and in -it several Bible scenes are inlaid with ebony. - -We have seen that Sweden was at one time a great military power in -Europe. We notice this if we visit the Riddarholm Church. The interior -is adorned with 6,000 flags and trophies taken in war. This is the -burial-place of the Kings of Sweden. - -Very many years ago, when Stockholm was built chiefly of wood, St. -Jacob's Church was a kind of signal station. There used to be in its -tower a watchman, who would sing out the hours of night: - - "The hour is ten: - God's mighty hand - Preserve our town - From fire and brand: - The hour is ten." - -If he saw any sign of fire, instead of his rhyme he sounded a rattle -as a warning. - - [Illustration: GUSTAVUS VASA'S ENTRY INTO STOCKHOLM, MIDSUMMER, - 1532. _Carl Larsson._] - -Things are now altering all over the country. Many old customs are -passing away. To remind the young Swede of the past, Dr. Hazelius -conceived the idea of a museum in which would be preserved old Swedish -costumes, furniture, and other things which speak of the past. This -has been arranged in a very large building. In connection with it -there is a large open-air museum called Skansen. It encloses about 40 -acres. It is a Sweden in miniature. - -Buildings have been brought from every part of Sweden. You can see -peasants, farms, and houses, summer houses of different centuries, and -a Lapp encampment, where real Lapps live during the summer. The -attendants are dressed in the old national costumes. On several days -of the week you can see the graceful national dances and games. There -are animals, wild and domestic, from all parts of Scandinavia, and -plants and flowers are well represented. It is a most interesting -place to visit, and gives a peep into the whole of Sweden. - -Let us now visit the streets, and see something of the life of the -people. They live chiefly in flats, and the street-door is generally -shut. When the bell is rung, the porter, who is within, touches a -spring, which opens the door mechanically. There are lifts as well as -broad staircases to the different flats. The houses are heated in -winter by means of large porcelain stoves, in which wood is burned. -The wood is brought to the harbour in boats from the surrounding -districts, and some houses have a man whose daily role is to go to the -boat, buy the wood, cut it into pieces, and feed the stoves. Very -often he is a Dalecarlian, and wears his native costume. - -There are many open-air markets. Let us visit the fish-market. Here -the fish is brought alive in tanks in the boats. We may see the owner -of the boat, as we pass along, lift up fish for our inspection. As a -rule, fish is sold alive. - -The boys of this country are accustomed to see at railway-stations -automatic machines for the sale of chocolates and a few other small -things. In Sweden you find automatic restaurants. They require no -waiters. There is a large room with tables, and on each wall are -labels over different slots, such as "Tea," "Coffee," "Milk," etc. You -put your coin in, and, putting your cup or tumbler under a tap, get -what you want. There are some restaurants that also supply a hot lunch -after the same manner. These are very popular, as they save time and -tips. - -In the winter there are in the squares of Stockholm huge cisterns -containing hot milk, which is sold in the same automatic way. - -The Swedes are very fond of music, and in their beautiful Opera-House -one can hear the finest concerts for a comparatively low price. - -Altogether Stockholm is a most attractive city. The beauty of its -situation, combined with the culture and friendliness of its people, -are bound to awake our admiration. - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -THE SWEDES AT WORK - - -Let us now have a peep at the Swede at work, for, although he is very -fond of pleasure, he is very hard-working and industrious, and is -taking a foremost place among the manufacturers of the world. - -Although only about one-tenth of the country is under cultivation, -nearly one-half of the people are engaged in the fields. The people -are very much devoted to the land. In most cases the farmer owns the -farm, and, with the aid of his family, he is able to cultivate all his -ground. Farming has changed very much of late years. A great deal of -grain used to be grown, but nowadays more attention is being paid to -rearing horses and cattle, and dairying. - -The farmers are very intelligent and well educated, and employ the -latest methods in their work. They have made the export of butter one -of their chief industries, and in most districts have erected -cooperative dairies. The carts go to the farms, collect the produce, -and take it to a central dairy, where the butter is made. This is -exported in large quantities, with eggs, to Denmark and Britain. They -employ the finest machinery, and have well-constructed dairies. Most -of their appliances are made in Sweden. In Stockholm they manufacture -a separator which is sent to every part of the world. It was invented -by a Swede--Gustaf de Laval--and separates the cream from the milk. - -In some parts of Sweden farmers have to be very economical as well as -industrious. Sometimes you will see little yellow bundles hanging on -trees; these are birch twigs, and when they are thoroughly dried, they -are used as fodder for the sheep. In the Far North, the sun is not -sufficiently strong to make hay, so they erect poles which look like -fences, and as soon as the grass is cut, they hang it on these poles, -and allow it to remain until it is cured. - -As you sail round the coast and call at the various ports, you see -great piles of timber, and ships from many countries loading planks; -also huge ponds full of logs, and close at hand sawmills cutting them. -You are here reminded that one of Sweden's greatest industries is the -timber trade. You would expect this if you travel through the country, -for everywhere you see large forests, especially in the Norrland. More -than half of the country is covered with forest. This industry is -greatly helped by the many rivers. Men go up in the winter to these -forests to cut down the trees, which they haul over the snow, when it -is deep upon the ground, to the rivers. They have to make special -roads in the woods for this, and in the spring the logs are allowed to -float down the river to its mouth, where the sawmills are. Sometimes -they take months, sometimes they take years. Very few are lost. At -other times the logs are formed into huge rafts, which are kept in the -centre of the stream by men with long poles. They usually try to get -them done before the end of the summer, or they will need to return -the following year, as the rivers are usually frozen every winter. As -soon as they arrive at the river's mouth, they are taken to the -sawmills, and cut into planks of various sizes. - -What is done with all this timber? A large number of the thin, short -logs are sent to Britain to be props in the pits. Perhaps, when you -are travelling in the train, the sleepers on which the rails are laid -may have come from Sweden. A great deal of the timber is crushed into -pulp, and then used for the making of paper. The Swedes make doors and -windows for us. They even export wooden houses. - -Another great industry is match-making. They do a wonderful thing in -this industry. A Swede invented a so-called "complete machine," which -reduces the manual labour very much. The match material, which is -first cut by other machines, is placed into the "complete machine" at -one end, and comes out at the other ready made and packed in boxes, -without a workman having to touch them. A machine can turn out 40,000 -boxes in eleven hours. - -These are but a few of the occupations of the Swedes. Very many are -employed at iron and steel works. There are great ore-mines in the -North. Swedish steel is considered the best in the world, and is used -greatly in Sheffield for the well-known cutlery. Employment is found -for great numbers of men in granite quarries, in manufacturing -machinery, and in weaving cloth. Glass-works are numerous, and a great -deal of very fine cut glass is exported. It would take too long to -mention all the industries. Enough has been said to show that Sweden -is not a poor but a rich and progressive country. There is work for -all. The one drawback is the want of coal, which has all to be -imported, but the Swedes are trying to utilize the waterfalls, and -make them provide the power to drive machinery. When that is -accomplished they will be able to take a place in the front rank of -iron and steel-producing countries. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -THE SWEDES AT PLAY - - -The Swedes are very fond of pleasure, and enter into all kinds of -indoor and outdoor games with great spirit. They have many similar to -ours, but there are some which our boys and girls might enjoy. - -Blind-man's buff is played in several ways. Here is one. The person -who has been blindfolded is placed in the middle of the room with a -cane in his hand, while all the company form a ring round him with -joined hands. The blind man points towards one in the ring. This one -must rise and put his mouth to one end of the cane, while the blind -man puts his to the other. They hold a conversation with one another -as if speaking through the telephone. The blind man guesses who has -been talking to him, and if successful, changes places with his -victim. - -Sometimes the company sit on chairs in a circle. The blind man walks -round and round, and at last sits down in the lap of someone who, if -he guesses the name correctly, is blindfolded in turn. If not -correct, the one on whose lap he is sitting gives him a slap and -sends him on, but no words are spoken. - - [Illustration: A SUMMER DAY IN NORTH SWEDEN. _Carl Johansson._] - -Still another game: it is called _Lana lana eld_. All the company -except one are again seated in a circle. Then the one standing walks -up to one of the company, and rapping on the ground with a cane, says: -"Lana, lana, eld" (Lend, lend fire). The other replies: "Ga till naesta -grannen" (Go to the next neighbour). He goes on doing this time after -time, and always getting the same reply. While he is doing this the -company are exchanging chairs with one another by rushing across the -room. The questioner has to watch his chance to get into a chair that -is vacant. The one deprived of the chair has then to get the cane and -go in search of fire. - -The Swedes, like all Scandinavians, have a great love of dancing, and -very many of their games take the form of a simple dance. On a summer -evening you can see the villagers of all ages, men and women, boys and -girls, playing at dancing games on the village green to the -accompaniment of a fiddle or accordion. A very pretty picture they -present if they are, as often happens in Dalecarlia, dressed in their -bright native costume. While dancing they generally sing a description -of each movement as they perform it. One dance has been handed down -from time immemorial. It is named _Vaefva Vadmal_ (Weaving Homespun). -No doubt it arose from the fact that the Swedish women used to weave -the cloth for all their clothes. The players imitate the weaving of -cloth at the old handloom. Some represent the bobbins; others the warp -and woof. In and out they go until they form a bale. Then they stand -still for a time, after which they reverse, unwind themselves, and -then disperse. This is a peculiarly Swedish game, and is enjoyed by -every rank of Swedish society. - -There is another dancing game called _Skaera Hafre_ (Reaping Oats). In -this they tell in word and gesture how the farmer sows the seed, cuts -the grain, binds it into sheaves, and threshes it. - -Another favourite game is _Enke-leken_ (The Widower's Game). This is -played in the open air, as a rule, by children and young people. They -stand in pairs, a boy and girl, in a long row, one pair behind the -other. There is an odd one who represents the widower. He stands in -front with his back to the rest, so that he cannot see them. When he -calls, "Enke-leken, enke-leken, sista paret ut" (The widower game, -last pair out), this pair separate and run forward in a wide circle. -The widower runs forward at the same time with a view to catching the -girl, but as he is not allowed to look backward, he does not know on -which side she may come. Very often the pair change places, and the -widower comes in contact with the boy instead of the girl. If he -succeed, however, in catching the girl, the other boy takes his place; -if not, he has to try again. The pair that has just been out join the -ranks at the front. - -In all these games there is never seen any roughness, and the players -gain a great deal of health and pleasure in a very simple and natural -way. - -Then there are what one might call the manly sports. The Swedes have -ever excelled in these. The old Viking warriors are spoken of in the -old legends as being often engaged in feats of strength and skill with -the sword and javelin, bow and arrow, in jumping and wrestling, and -other favourite sports. They have handed down this trait to the -present generation. Nowadays the Swedes practise curling, football, -acquired from other countries, and a system of gymnastics invented by -a Swede, which is being used by nearly every nation in the world. - -The summer sports are very much the same as found in other countries, -but it is in winter sports that most interest is taken. - -There is the national sport of skating. The Swedes excel all others -in the rapidity and gracefulness of their skating. This is owing to -the large number of lakes and rivers, and the severe winters, when the -boys and girls have every opportunity of learning to skate. But see! -What are these boys going to do? They have a pair of skates and a -piece of canvas rolled upon poles. They are skate-sailors. They -stretch the canvas on the poles, and putting the cross-bar over the -shoulder, have a sail which enables them to go before the wind or tack -as they wish, just as the sailor does at sea. They can sometimes go at -the rate of forty miles an hour with great ease. They present a most -beautiful sight as the white sails flit here and there over the ice, -and gleam in the rays of the winter's sun. Sometimes you see -ice-yachts gliding over the frozen water guided by a powerful rudder. - -There is also tobogganing. Wherever there is a hill, you see a large -number of boys and girls enjoying themselves. Down the slope they come -at a rapid rate on a little sledge, which the owner guides with his -foot used as a rudder behind. Sometimes, in the public parks, there -are specially prepared ice-courses, which require great skill to ride -on, or the consequences may be serious. - -The most popular and a very useful form of sport is skiing. The skis -are two long pieces of thin wood, which are fastened to the boots. By -means of these the peasant can travel very quickly from one farm to -another, when there is sufficient depth of snow. As a sport it is most -exhilarating, but it must be acquired when one is young. Hear those -shouts from the woods! Some young men and women have come from the -town. They have gone up the slope in a zigzag manner, and along the -crest of the hill. Now they are coming down, slowly at first, then -faster and faster. See how gracefully they glide with feet placed -closely together. They have ever to be on the lookout, for they have -often to sweep round a bush, bend under an overhanging branch, or jump -a precipice. Those who are able to ski can take many short cuts, as -they do not need to keep to the roads, but can often go to their -destination as the crow flies. The speed is very great. Very many of -the soldiers are trained regularly to go on skis. - -A common form of sport is for ski-runners, gliding on their skis, to -be drawn along by a horse. They hold on to a rope attached to the -traces, and as there is little weight on the horse, a speed of ten -miles an hour can be kept up for long distances. Sometimes eight or -ten soldiers may be seen moving quickly along the road by means of -ropes attached to the saddle of a mounted soldier. - -The Lapps are the best ski-runners in the world. They are all trained -from their very early days to travel by this means. A Lapp, under -favourable conditions, can travel 162 miles in twenty-four hours. - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -EDUCATION IN SWEDEN - - -No children are more fortunate than the Swedish in education. They -have everything done to make their schooldays bright and happy, as -well as useful. Their teachers are highly educated, and are very much -respected, if they do not get large salaries. The school-house in -every town is a very important and conspicuous building. - -Unless a child is very well educated at home, he must go to the public -school. He does not pay any fees. All education is free, even at the -University, but not everyone can go there. Only those who can pass a -very stiff examination are allowed to enter. The children go at the -age of seven and remain at school until they are fourteen. They get a -very thorough training in very much the same subjects as in our -schools. There are no holidays on Saturdays for Swedish children. -Thirty-six hours every week they must attend. When parents are found -to be careless so that their children are suffering, the State -sometimes takes the little ones to train and educate. - -In the districts where the population is very scattered, a teacher -comes for four months in the year, and then proceeds to another -district. There is no district where education is not provided. - -There are some features that may be of interest to a stranger. In many -of the schools there are splendid libraries. No doubt most of the -books are printed in Swedish, but there are also a large number in -English, French, and German. They are not there for appearance, but -are actually read, as the children begin at a very early age to learn -these languages. The Swedes are splendid linguists, and are very proud -of being able to speak English. - -They are known all over the world as being very good gymnasts, and -every school has a completely equipped gymnasium. Very often the -instructor is a military officer. Their system is being universally -adopted, and many readers of this book will have learned the same -exercises as the Swedish boys and girls. - -One of the most interesting features of school-life is the study of -nature. No doubt this is because one of the greatest botanists that -ever lived was a Swede--Linnaeus. He devised the system of botany, -which is in use throughout the whole world. From a very early age -the children go out into the woods and collect plants, flowers, and -leaves of trees. They are taught not only the names of the different -plants, but also the science of botany. The result is that from -childhood they are taught to take an intelligent interest in nature, -and learn to love what is beautiful in gardens, field, and forest. - - [Illustration: GUNNAR HALLSTROeM. MARS 1904 Bjoernoe A SKI-RUNNER - _Gunnar Hallstroem._] - -The Swedes are also taught to be cleanly. Everywhere can be seen a -great many lakes, and in the bright summer days the children bathe and -learn to swim in them. In the winter this is impossible, as the cold -is very great and the lakes are frozen over. In some schools a large -room is set apart as a bathroom. There is no large bath or swimming -pond, but a very simple arrangement of a number of tubs in a circle. A -child goes into each. They wash and scrub one another. It is a method -for securing cleanliness easily carried out, and does not cost much. -The result is health. The children never look shabby. A Swedish mother -may be poor, but she takes a pride in seeing her children neat and -tidy. - -Nor does she forget to teach them politeness. Every boy is taught to -be very respectful to his elders. On the street he lifts his cap to -anyone he knows, whether he be rich or poor. - -When the boy is fifteen, he may choose to go to a trade, or to a -higher school with a view to entering a learned profession. - -At this age, if he intends to become a Government servant, lawyer, -doctor, or minister, he must be confirmed. This is a very important -step in his life. On the day of confirmation he is examined in the -church, and has publicly to answer questions. It is a great day for -him. He is now a man, and is very proud of being looked upon as such. - -After he has been at the higher school for some years, and wishes to -enter the University, he must pass a very hard examination, and when -he learns that he has been successful, he is very happy and bright. He -comes out of the school wearing the white cap which all students have, -and decked with wreaths and flowers bestowed on him by doting parents -and admiring friends. - -There are large Universities in Sweden both at Upsala and Lund. The -former is the larger and older of the two, but they are both well -known. The student has the same long and hard course as at school. -Very few students finish their course till they are between -twenty-five and thirty years of age, and up to this time, if they wish -to be successful, must be faithful to their study. There are no very -young doctors in Sweden. They generally do not begin to practise till -they are about twenty-eight years of age. Still, they find some time -for social life at the University towns. They enter into the gaiety of -the place, and are great favourites with the townspeople. The students -from each district or nation have a club-room for social gatherings. -They are very proud of their own district, and in processions march -together with a banner in front. They are very fond of singing. The -students of Upsala have a world-wide reputation, as at the Paris -Exhibition of 1897 they took the first prize when choirs from every -part of the world were competing. - -The Swedes as a class are intelligent and polite, and are taking a -prominent part in the world's affairs. We should expect this when we -know how well they are educated. - - - - -CHAPTER X - -DALECARLIA - - -No one touring in Sweden should omit a visit to the province of -Dalecarlia. It is a most lovely district, inhabited by a people who -stick to their old customs and national dress. They are very proud and -manly, and have done a great deal for the freedom of their country. - -The chief town is Falun, which is well known because of its copper -mine, said to be the oldest in Europe, as it has been worked more than -600 years. It is named the Treasury of Sweden. More than L5,000,000 -worth of copper has been extracted. It was here Gustavus Vasa worked -when he was in hiding from the Danes, and got his men and money to -fight against them. The fumes from the works have spoiled the -vegetation in the neighbourhood; but travel in the train a short -distance, and you soon get a sight of what the Dalecarlians are very -proud of--Lake Siljan, the Eye of Dalecarlia. Down the slopes of the -mountain the train proceeds until it reaches Raettvik on the edge of -the lake. You seem in a new world, for you see young and old, men, -women, and children, going about in costumes similar to what their -grandfathers and grandmothers wore. In some parts of Sweden you see -people wearing these costumes on Sundays and gala-days, but in -Dalecarlia they wear them at church and at market. The men have a long -coat which extends below the knee, knee-breeches, white woollen -stockings, and shoes. On the head they wear a low-crowned felt hat. -From the neck there hangs a long leather apron. The women wear a skirt -of a blue colour with a green border. The bodice is of a dark colour, -and is only as high as a broad belt, laced together in front with -bright red ribbons, the eyelets being of silver. They have also a -white blouse. Round the neck is a red kerchief with a bright pattern, -fastened at the throat with an old-fashioned silver brooch. The apron -is dark, with transverse stripes of blue, red, yellow, and white. The -cap is a black, peaked one, with red trimming round it, and red -tassels hanging down. It is something in shape like a helmet. In -winter they wear a short jacket made of sheepskin. Their clothes-store -is a treasure-house. - -In days gone by the sound of the shuttle used to be heard in every -Dalecarlian home, as the women used to spin and weave all the cloth -required for the clothes of the family. They now buy from the -merchant. The Dalecarlians are of a mechanical turn of mind. They make -watches and baskets, and the women do hair-work. The natives travel -over the country to sell their wares. The Raettvikians excel chiefly as -painters, and they cover the walls of their houses with paintings -instead of putting up hangings. - -The traveller usually proceeds by steamer from Raettvik to Leksand, -where on a Sunday a most interesting sight is seen. - -Looking across the lake, you see many large boats, driven through the -water by means of eight or ten pairs of oars. Each of them may contain -forty, sixty, or eighty men, women, and children. They present a very -picturesque appearance with their national costumes. They are very -similar to the Raettvikians, except that the women wear a tight-fitting -cap--that of the married women white, of the unmarried red. The little -boys are dressed in yellow-coloured clothes, and the little girls in -the same as their older sisters. They soon land and wend their way to -church through a beautiful avenue of trees. Here they are joined by -others, who have walked or driven in carts for perhaps ten miles. They -are regular church-goers. The church is not only a religious, but -also a social centre. Sunday is newspaper day. The gossip of the -whole district is then retailed. The men meet in crowds in the avenue, -and the women and children wander in the churchyard until the service -begins. It is like fairyland to see the bright costumes moving among -the luxuriant foliage on a Swedish summer day. - -The church at Leksand is an imposing structure, in the shape of a -Greek cross, with a Russian ball-spire. It was built by some Swedes -who had been prisoners in Russia, and it holds about 5,000 people. The -sight is most impressive when it is crowded, men and women sitting -apart. The sermons must at one time have been longer or the people not -so devout, as in some country churches can be seen a relic of bygone -days in a long stick, with which an official, "the church awakener," -used to poke anyone who fell asleep. When the service is over, the -horses are yoked, the boats pushed into the water, and the vast crowd -is soon scattered. - -There is, however, one place of interest that must not be passed -over--Mora, a quiet little spot on the northern shore of Lake Siljan. -It was here that the standard of revolt against the Danes was raised -by the men of Mora under Gustavus Vasa. Near the church is the mound -where he made his famous speech that roused them to action. Dear to -the heart of the Swede is the national memorial at Mora. It is -situated about a mile from the village, and is a little square -building lit from the roof. In the middle of the stone floor is the -cellar in which Gustavus Vasa hid when the Danes were pursuing him. -The walls are covered with paintings of scenes in the life of the -patriot, and one of them represents what took place here. You see the -open trap-door, Gustavus Vasa descending into the cellar with an axe -in his hand, the woman lifting a tub to cover the trap, and through -the window you can see the Danes in the distance on horseback. - -No one need be at a loss as to the meaning of any of the pictures. The -custodian has a description written in English, French, and German. He -usually succeeds in finding out the nationality of the visitor, and -gives him the proper copy. - -It is with reluctance one leaves Dalecarlia, with its proud and -independent people, and its bright and smiling valleys. - - [Illustration: "BRASKULLA" _Anders Zorn._ (A PEASANT GIRL FROM - MORA).] - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -CUSTOMS - - -The Swedes are a most hospitable and kindly people, and enjoy -entertaining. They do not mask their feelings, for as soon as a -visitor arrives, he is made to feel at home with the words, "Vaelkommen -till oss" (Welcome to us). - -If it should be about the hour for dinner, he will be invited to -partake with the family. If he be a foreigner, a surprise awaits him, -for, on entering the dining-room, instead of sitting down at once to -dinner, he is led up to a side-table. On this he sees bread, butter, -and cheese, and numerous small dishes with anchovies, smoked salmon, -caviare, and different kinds of meats, hot and cold, too numerous to -mention. This is called _smoergosbord_. He is expected to take a piece -of bread and butter and whatever of the other dishes he may feel -inclined for. This is considered an appetizer for the proper meal, -which no stranger must forget. - -Then the company assembles round the dinnertable behind the chairs, -and a very nice custom is observed. One of the children, perhaps one -who can only lisp a prayer, asks God's blessing on the food, at which -the gentlemen bow, and the ladies curtsey. After dinner there is -another beautiful custom, when the children go up to the parents, kiss -their hands, and say: "Tack foer maten" (Thanks for food). If the guest -is present, he shakes hands with the host and hostess, at the same -time expressing his thanks for the meal. - -Weddings in every country are always looked upon with interest, but a -Swedish country wedding is one especially interesting and picturesque. -It is an event which demands the attention of the district for several -days. A large number of people are invited. This means considerable -expense, but the heads of the several families invited make a -contribution of provisions. - -If the wedding be in the church, the bride, with a silver crown on her -head and pearls round her neck, goes there on horseback. She is -escorted during the festivities by a number of musicians and young men -also mounted. The hats of the men are decorated with ribbons of bright -colours and with flowers. Some of them carry guns, which they -frequently fire, and this is supposed to be a reminiscence of those -days when a bride had to be protected from the attack of a hostile -clan. The rest of the company follow in carriages or on foot. At the -church there is a triumphal arch through which all pass. After the -ceremony is over, the procession returns to the bride's home for the -rejoicings. Here again is a triumphal arch of green boughs. The young -men ride three times furiously round a maypole, while whips are -cracked and guns are fired. - -Then comes a banquet, which usually lasts for three or four hours, -after which there come games and dancing, not for a few hours, but -often for three days and three nights, during which the festivities -continue without a break. Among the more wealthy they may last five or -six days. If the provisions are exhausted, the hostess introduces a -highly spiced rice-pudding. This information is understood, and soon, -after great cheering, the company separates. The feasting is not yet -over, as the young couple are expected to entertain all who have been -present. - -A pretty custom observed in some districts is "dancing the crown off -the head of the bride." The bride is blindfolded. The maidens present -form a ring and dance round her, until she takes the crown off her -head and places it haphazard on the head of one of the girls. She on -whom this honour has been conferred will be the next to wear a crown -at her own wedding. The girl places it on the head of another, and so -on, till it has rested on the head of everyone. - -If you enter a Swedish peasant's home, you will see one or more long -poles attached to the roof. On these are strung a number of very thin -round discs. This is the rye bread, which is the only kind eaten by -the peasant, and is also found at the King's table. The peasantry do -not eat much new bread. They only bake four times a year, and each -baking lasts for three months. - -A very common dish in a Swedish peasant's house is solid sour milk. It -is placed on the table in a wooden dish. After the housewife has added -some sugar, all sit round the table with wooden spoons, and each marks -out for himself what he considers his rightful share. After this they -all set to work, and do not move until the whole is eaten. - -The Swedes are very fond of open-air life. They practically spend the -summer out of doors. Where you find a band, there is usually a large -crowd of men, women, and children, sitting at little tables drinking -their punch, beer, and coffee. The Swedes are very fond of family -life. The father, mother, and children usually go out together. On -Sunday afternoons and feast-days every town is a scene of gaiety. All -the inhabitants give themselves up to pleasure. There is no rowdyism, -but a great deal of enjoyment. The innate refinement of the Swede -checks any inclination there might be for anything rough or uncouth. -He shows this when he goes into a shop. Very many of those behind the -counters are young women. The Swede takes off his hat to them, and -wishes them "Good-morning" as pleasantly as he would to his greatest -lady-friends. - -One thing a Swede is never without, and that is his coffee. You may -not always get good tea, but you will always get good coffee. The -peasants will drink it as often as five times a day. They are also -fond of sugar. They have a strange custom of putting a piece of sugar -between the teeth, and sweetening the coffee as it passes through the -sugar into their mouths. They call this _dricka pa bit_. They seem to -think they get more enjoyment from the sugar in this way than if it -were dissolved in the coffee. - -There is one other custom that people in England would like to know -about. It is the festival of Santa Lucia. There are several stories as -to its origin. Some say that it refers to the shortest day, though it -falls on December 13. Lucia night, according to the peasants, is so -long that the ox from hunger bites the crib. "Lucia night is mortal -long," said the cow. "It's as good as two," replied the ram. "That's -true," put in the goat; "it's a pity it exists." Some speak of a -beautiful virgin named Lucia, who was about to be married. She had -given all her dowry to the Christians because of their courage. When -her lover heard of this, he informed against her. She was condemned in -the end to death by burning. When the fire was placed around her, she -remained unhurt, and did not die until a sword was thrust into her -throat. - -The day is observed in a very quaint fashion. At a very early hour in -the morning, perhaps as early as three or four, the sleeper is -awakened, to find a maiden dressed in white standing by the bedside. -Her hair is streaming down her back. On her head, which is encircled -with a wreath of green leaves, are a number of lighted tapers. In her -hands are a salver with coffee and cakes, which must be partaken of in -bed. After this, in some houses, all get out of bed and sit down to a -big feast. Afterwards they shoot a fish by the aid of a torch composed -of slips of dry and resinous wood. - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -THE ISLAND OF GOTHLAND AND TOWN OF VISBY - - -"In the days of old," says the saga, "a fair and beautiful island, low -and dim, floated on the sea by night, and the people beheld it as they -sailed to and fro; but each morning at sunrise it disappeared beneath -the waves, until the waning twilight had come again, when it would -rise and float over the surface of the Oestersjoen (Baltic) as before." - -No one dared to land upon it, though the belief was general that it -would become fixed if a fire was lighted there. - -Thjelvar, with his men, finally landed in a little bay of the floating -island, and lighted a fire, and the island became stationary. The name -of this daring man, Thjelvar, means "the Industrious." - -Those with him seemed to be possessed with the same spirit, for in a -short time they were building ships and trading with every part of -Europe. They soon became wealthy, not only by fair means but also by -foul, as they did not hesitate to plunder whenever they had an -opportunity. Their forays led to reprisals. Their wealth excited envy. -They did not feel strong enough of themselves, and, as Sweden was the -nearest country, they proposed to put themselves under her protection, -and sent an ambassador to negotiate. When he arrived at Upsala, then -the capital of Sweden, the King and Queen were sitting at meat. He was -not received at once, nor even asked to sit down. After he had been -standing some time at the entrance, the King said: "What news from -Gothland?" "Nothing," replied the ambassador, "except that a mare on -the island has foaled three colts at a birth." "Ah," said the King, -"what does the third colt do when the other two are sucking?" "He does -as I do," replied the ambassador, "He stands and looks on." Thereupon -the King laughed loudly, and invited the ambassador to share the meal. -In the end a treaty was arranged, and Gothland became a part of -Sweden. - -This was in 890. In 1030 Olaf compelled the inhabitants of the island -to become Christian, and be baptized, but by this time a city had -sprung up where the heathens of old used to offer up sacrifices. This -city was named Visby, "the city of the place of sacrifice." It is -situated on the west side of the island, and gradually rose in -importance, until it became the chief trading centre of Europe. There -was a great trade with Russia, and by means of the rivers of that -country the treasures of the East were brought to Visby. The fame and -the stories of her wealth and commerce spread far and wide. Soon -merchants came from all parts of Europe to share her wealth. Very many -of them removed their business entirely to Visby. - - [Illustration: IN DAYS OF OLD. _Ankarcrona._] - -The wealth of the city was fabulous. The common saying was that the -merchants used to weigh their gold with 20 pound weights, and play -with choicest jewels. The women spun with silver distaffs. The pigs -ate out of silver troughs. - -Their houses, of which many are remaining to this day, were narrow and -lofty, with their gable-ends to the streets. Their rooms were large -with high ceilings, and most beautifully decorated. In one house can -be seen a room with walls and roof completely covered with scenes from -the Bible. The doors in many cases were made of copper, and the -window-frames gilded. - -The merchants lived most luxuriously, and were most exclusive in their -social life. No artisans, except bakers and goldsmiths, were allowed -to live within the city walls. - -Their wealth and commerce gave them great authority, so that their -sea-laws were adopted by European countries generally. They form the -basis of the laws of the sea of the present day. - -These were rough times, when might was right, and the inhabitants of -Visby had always to be prepared for an attack upon the city, for the -surrounding nations looked upon her wealth with an envious eye. One of -the sorest experiences she had to undergo was at the hand of King -Waldemar of Denmark. He defeated them in battle, tore down a part of -the walls, entered with his army in battle array, and, placing three -very large ale-vats in the square, commanded that these be filled with -gold and silver within three hours. This was done with remarkable -rapidity, and King Waldemar sailed with his gold and silver, as well -as much spoil from the churches. The booty, however, never reached -Denmark, as the vessels carrying it foundered in a storm. From this -hour Visby began to decline in importance, and is now known chiefly as -a summer resort and haunt of tourists who wish to learn something of -this medieval town. - -Notwithstanding all their love of wealth, the inhabitants of Visby did -not seem to be stingy in giving to the Church, as no less than sixteen -churches were built. All still exist, but are in ruins except one, the -Cathedral or St. Mary's Church which is quite complete. They are all -large buildings. In the great square can be seen the Church of St. -Catherine, which belonged to the abbey of a Franciscan Order. In the -nave are twelve pillars, not in a straight line. They make a lasting -impression on the visitor, they are so delicate in their tracery and -overgrown with the ivy and the vine. The roof of the chancel has -fallen, and now only the arches which unite the pillars to each other -and to the outer walls remain. - -Not very far from here are seen two churches. They are called -_syskonkyrkorna_, or sister-churches, built side by side. They each -possess immense towers, which are supposed to have been fitted up at -one time for defence. If the story is true, the sisters did not love -one another; indeed, it is said that they hated one another so much -that they could not worship God in the same church, and each had to -have a separate place of worship built for herself. - -The largest of all the churches is St. Nicholas. On the western gable -of it can be seen two twelve-leaved rosette-like bricks. They look -like windows. In the centre of each, tradition says, were set most -precious carbuncle stones, that shone in the dark like fire. These -served as guides to the sailors on the Baltic. Soldiers guarded them -night and day, and no one was allowed to approach them after sunset on -pain of death. King Waldemar, when he sacked Visby, removed the sacred -carbuncles. Over the spot where the ship that conveyed them went -down, a remarkable gleam is said to be seen. The Gothland fishermen -say that it is the radiance of the carbuncles now lying in the depths -of the sea. - -Another remarkable feature of Visby is the city wall. It completely -encircles the city, and is the only example in Scandinavia that has -lasted to our time. It dates from early in the thirteenth century. It -was gradually made stronger by adding to its height and its thickness, -and also by building thirty-six towers, two to guard each gate. Many -of these have a name. The powder-tower was named Silfverhaettan -(Silver-cap). Its shining roof is now replaced by dull tiles. One is -used as a prison, and is named "Caesar." Another is called Jungfru -Tornet (the Maiden's Tower). It is said that a young girl betrayed -this city to King Waldemar. As a punishment she was built into the -wall of the tower. Near a gate on the south side of the city can be -seen a cross put up to the memory of the 1,800 men of Visby who were -killed when that King took the city. On it is an inscription in Latin, -still legible--"In the year 1361, the Tuesday after St. James's day, -the Gothlanders fell before the gates of Visby by the hands of the -Danes. They lie buried here. Pray for them." - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -FAIRY-TALES - - -I wonder how children would do without fairy-tales. Every country and -every age has these, and devours them eagerly, old as they are. -Perhaps it would be interesting to inquire how they arose. It is said -that a Queen saw her children looking very sad, although they had -everything that she could think of for their happiness. The truth was -they did not know what they wanted. She said, "If only I were a child -again, I would know what is the secret of a child's happiness." While -she was thinking a bird flew into her lap, but only for a moment. As -soon as it had gone, she saw a golden egg. "Perhaps," she thought, -"this egg will contain what will give my children contentment, and -remove their sadness." She broke the egg, and out came the wonderful -bird, Imagination, the Popular Tale. Now the children were happy and -bright. For the tale took them far away, but brought them home again -as soon as they desired. So it came about that not only children, but -those who are older in years, found a peculiar joy and happiness in -reading the story, provided they come in the spirit of the child. Here -is one well known to Swedish children: - - -THE CRAFTY BOY AND THE STUPID GIANT - -Once upon a time there was a boy who watched goats in the forest. He -was alone, and one day had to pass a large dwelling. He had been -enjoying himself, shouting and singing, as boys will do when in the -woods, when suddenly he saw coming from the house a giant, of great -size and fierce to look upon. The giant was very angry because he had -been disturbed in his sleep, and the boy became so frightened that he -at once took to his heels, and never stopped running till he got home. -In the evening his mother had been making cheese, and he took a piece -that was newly made, and put it in his wallet. Next morning he had -again to pass the giant's house. The giant, when he saw him, took up a -piece of stone, crushed it into atoms, let it fall upon the ground, -and said: "If you again disturb me with your noise, I will crush you -as I have crushed this stone." The boy, who was by this time quite -bold, took up the cheese he had brought in his wallet, and squeezing -the whey out of it, said to the giant: "I will squeeze thee as I -squeeze the water out of this stone." When the giant found out that -the boy was so strong, he went away in great fear and trembling to his -abode. - -However, they soon met again, and then the boy suggested a trial of -strength. The test was who could throw an axe so high in the air that -it would never fall down again. The giant tried many times, but the -axe always fell down again. The boy began to mock him, saying: "I -thought you were a very strong man, but you are not. See how I can -throw the axe." With that he took the axe and swinging it as if with -great force, very cleverly let it slide into the wallet on his back. -The giant did not see the trick, and, looking in vain for the axe -falling down again, thought the boy must be wonderfully strong. - -The giant was so much impressed with the boy's strength, that he asked -him to enter his service. The boy's first duty was to assist with the -felling of a tree. "I will hold while you fell," said the boy. But as -the boy was not tall enough to reach to the top of the trunk, the -giant bent it down to the level of the boy. As soon as the boy seized -it, the tree at once rebounded and carried the boy out of sight. In a -short time he came back lame, but saying nothing. "Why did you not -hold?" said the giant. "Would you be brave enough to make a jump like -that?" said the boy. "No," replied the giant. "Well, then, if you are -so afraid you can hold and cut for yourself." - -Soon the giant had cut down the tree. How was it to be carried home? -It was arranged that the giant should carry the thin end, and the boy -the thick one. The giant went in front, and raised his end on his -shoulder. The boy behind called him to move it farther forward. Soon -the giant had it so balanced on his shoulder, that he had the whole -weight of it. After walking for some time, he shouted: "Are you not -tired yet?" The boy, who had seated himself on his end of the tree, -answered: "Certainly not." When they arrived at the house, the giant -was quite worn out. "Are you not tired even yet?" said the giant. The -boy answered: "You must not think so little tires me. I could quite -easily have carried it myself." - -The giant was amazed, and wondered what he would try next. He -suggested they should thresh grain. "Let us do it very early in the -morning, before we get our breakfast," said the boy. The giant agreed. -When they began the boy received a flail he could not lift, so he took -up a stick and beat the ground while the giant threshed. As they had -been working in the dark, the boy's device had not been seen, and -to escape detection, when daylight was approaching, he suggested that -they should cease work for breakfast. "Yes," said the giant, "it has -been very hard work." - - [Illustration: A GIRL WITH "KICKER." _Carl Larsson._] - -Some time after the giant sent the boy to plough, and told him that -when the dog came, he was to loose the oxen, bring them home, and put -them in their stable. He brought them home, but as there was no -entrance, he did not know how to get them in. As he could not lift the -house like the giant, he made up his mind to kill the oxen, cut up -their carcases, and put them in in this way. On his return the giant -asked if he had put the oxen in the stall. "Yes," said the boy, "I got -them in, although I divided them." - -The giant now began to think the boy was too dangerous to have in the -house, and, on the advice of his wife, resolved to put him to death -while he slept. The boy was suspicious that something was going to -happen, and when night came, put the churn in the bed, while he -himself hid behind the door. In came the giant; down came the club, so -that the cream from the churn bespattered all his face. "Ha, ha, ha! I -have struck him so that his brains have bespattered the wall," said -the giant afterwards to his wife. The two now lay down to rest in -peace, believing they had rid themselves for ever of this terrible -boy. - -What a surprise they got next morning, when the boy appeared as if -nothing had happened. "What," said the giant, "art thou not dead? I -thought I had killed thee with my club." The boy answered: "Now that -explains it. I had imagined that I felt a flea biting me in the -night-time." - -At the close of the day a large basin of porridge was placed between -them. "What do you say to our trying to see who will eat most?" said -the boy. The giant was quite willing. The boy was too cunning. He had -tied a large bag before his chest, and let large quantities of the -porridge fall into it. When the giant came to a standstill, he saw the -boy still continuing with as good an appetite as when he began. "How -can a little fellow like you eat so much?" said the giant. "Father, I -will soon show you. When I have eaten as much as I can, I do so, and -begin again." He then ripped up the bag, and the porridge ran out. The -giant took up a knife in imitation of the boy, but was soon dead. - -Then the boy gathered all the money he could get, and left by night. -So ends the story of the crafty boy and the stupid giant. - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -JUL, OR CHRISTMAS - - -Jul is the great festival in Sweden. The festivities begin on -Christmas Eve--Julafton--and continue for thirteen days. Since early -autumn everyone has been sewing and embroidering beautiful presents. -Amongst young girls there is a custom that for one night before Jul -they should sit up the whole night and sew. This is looked forward to -as a special pleasure, and two or three friends are invited to join -the party. - -A few days before Christmas the streets begin to be crowded, and young -and old throng the shops. - -In the market-place you find stalls containing all sorts of -things--toys, clothing, and confectionery. Amongst the latter are -special ginger-cakes, shaped like different animals, especially pigs, -to commemorate the old boar that was sacrificed in heathen times. -These stalls are greatly patronized by the country people. - -Rich and poor, during Jul, are anxious to be kind and liberal to their -family and friends, remembering each member with some token of their -thought and love. Even the animal world is not forgotten. Horses and -cows get a special feed in their stalls, and on every house in the -country, as well as many in the towns, you will see a pole erected, to -which is fixed a sheaf of unthreshed grain as a treat for small birds -that, in this hard season, have great difficulty in getting food. -There is a saying in Sweden that on the anniversary of the coming of -our Lord into the world all creatures should have cause to rejoice. - -Within doors great preparations are being made. Servants are busy -cleaning and scrubbing everything that can be scrubbed. In the kitchen -a great amount of cooking is taking place, and six or seven different -kinds of bread have to be baked, as, in the country, each servant and -tenant are presented with a pile of special Jul-bread. - -Jul at the present day, as in olden times, is a great festival with -the Swedish peasantry. They have a special reverence for this season. -No work that can be avoided will be done on this day. - -"There is a belief which has existed for ages that, during Christmas, -there is a second of time when not only the sun itself, but everything -movable in creation, becomes stationary, and in consequence, at that -particular moment, which no one can foretell, if a person should be -occupied in any way, that which he is then about is sure to go -wrong." - -On Christmas Eve, to show good feeling in a practical way, it is -customary for the whole family to assemble in the kitchen, where a -large pot is boiling, containing ham and sausages highly spiced. -Mingling with the servants, you walk along plate in hand, and taking a -slice of Christmas-bread, you dip it in the boiling fat in the pot, -and eat together. This is called _doppa i grytan_ (to dip in the pot). - -In the afternoon the older members of the family are engaged in -decorating the Christmas-tree, which is done in great secrecy from the -children. Bright golden and silver stars, coloured glass globes, and -confectionery are hung on the tree, as well as baskets made of -coloured paper, containing raisins and almonds. Then, to every branch -and twig, a taper is fastened. The national flag waves from the top, -and the other nations are represented by smaller flags fixed here and -there over the tree. When all is ready, and the many tapers on the -tree are lit, as well as the chandeliers and lamps in the room, the -great moment arrives for the children. When the door is opened, they -are almost dazzled by the sea of light, and in rapture they rush to -gaze at the beautiful tree, which rises from floor to ceiling, a mass -of light and beauty. Their attention is somewhat divided, as their -eyes are constantly turning to the door, as if they expected someone -to arrive. Before long the door opens, and a small, old man and woman -enter. These are the Christmas gnomes. The man has a long white beard -and a red cowl, and carries in his hand a bell, which he rings, and -the old woman carries a large basket containing parcels neatly tied up -and sealed, addressed to different persons, but with no name of the -givers. Often there are poetry and amusing rhymes written on the -parcels. The old woman hands the parcels to those to whom they are -addressed, much to the amusement of the whole company. There is much -guessing as to who the donor may be, and the excitement is tremendous -as the old pair vanish from the room to return with fresh supplies. At -last the children are sent off to the servants' quarters, each -carrying a load of parcels for them. When the _Jul-klappan_ (Christmas -presents) have been duly admired, refreshments are brought in, such as -fruits and confects, and after this music and games are indulged in, -and later on all join hands and dance in a ring round the tree, -singing lustily. Between nine and ten the company sit down to a -Christmas supper. The first course is _lut_-fish, which is ling or -cod-fish, specially prepared weeks before in lime. When cooked and -ready, it is white and transparent, almost like a jelly. Seasoned with -pepper and salt, and eaten with potatoes and melted butter, it is -delicious. The next course is always pig in some form or other, either -head or ham. Then is produced a large fat goose. Last of all comes the -all-important rice-porridge, in which is hidden an almond, and whoever -gets it will be lucky for the next year. From the King's palace to the -peasant's hut you will find the very same kind of supper. However poor -people may be, they always find means for a small Christmas-tree. - -On Christmas morning, before daybreak, crowds flock to church for -early service. In the country it is the custom for people to join -together and form a procession, each carrying a torch. This makes a -pretty sight, especially in hilly districts, when you are able to see -at the same time several processions wending their way to church. On -arriving there, all the torches are flung in a heap, which lights up -the churchyard. The church is brilliantly illuminated by hundreds of -candles, even the pews having their own candles. After the service is -over the people make a rush for home. You ask why? It is an old -superstition that he who arrives home first will reap his grain first. - -The rest of the day is spent quietly in the home circle. - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -MIDSUMMER - - -The festival of Midsummer, like that of Jul, has come down from old -heathen times, and next to Christmas is the greatest festival of the -year in Scandinavia. - -On this day the sun is at the height of its grandeur, conquering -darkness. The night is the shortest in the year, just a glorious -twilight, which, in a few hours, is merged into dawn. - -Summer and winter have each their special enjoyments for those who -know where to look for them. In Sweden, Midsummer Day is looked -forward to especially by the young people. - -Great preparations are made in town and country. In the country the -houses have to undergo a special cleaning, and the rooms are decorated -with branches of trees and flowers. In Stockholm there is what is -called a "Leaf-market," where not only boughs and flowers are exposed, -but also May-poles. In the harbour can be seen a large number of boats -laden with branches. - -It is a wonderful sight you see on this day. The houses, both -inside and out, are decorated with green branches. Every train, -steamer, and vehicle is dressed in the same fashion, and even every -horse has its head ornamented with branches of leaves. Little children -all have bunches of flowers in their hands, and very often a small -May-pole, while older ones go out early in the morning to picnic, and -return for the dancing in the evening. - - [Illustration: DANCE ON MIDSUMMER'S EVE. _Anders Zorn._] - -The centre of attraction is the May-pole, similar to what is found in -many English villages in the month of May, to celebrate the return of -spring; but the Swedish word _Maj_ does not in this instance refer to -the month May, it means green leaf. - -What a bustle there has been to get this pole ready! It has to be -decorated. Early in the morning the young girls awaken with the birds, -and hurry into the woods to gather flowers and boughs of the silver -birch, to bind wreaths and garlands for the May-pole. The birch is the -queen of the forest in the summer, just as the dark, sombre fir is the -queen of the winter. - -The raising of the pole is an important event in the day's -proceedings, and amidst shouting and music it is put into position. -The people form themselves in a large ring round it, and to the sound -of the violin or accordion, they dance the whole night long. How -happy they look! They forget everything--all their troubles, and even -the old grandmother may be seen dancing in the ring with her little -grandchild of three years. By-and-by they sit down to supper, and one -might think the festivities were drawing to an end; but no! the meal -is no sooner over than the dancing is resumed and continued with more -or less energy through the night. No one ever seems to think of going -to bed. - -There are a number of superstitions and customs in connection with -this festival. - -On the hills in the neighbourhood of towns in North Sweden people -light fires at this season. These are but a reminiscence of the -"pyre," built on consecrated hills by the old heathen priests, and -fired on Midsummer Eve in honour of the sun-god, the mild and -beautiful Balder. Nowadays these fires are not in honour of Balder, -but to prepare coffee. Many families do this. Each family has its own -fire. They put the coffee on the fire when the sun is setting, but, as -in these northern regions at this season of the year the sun takes -little rest, he has risen again before the coffee has boiled. - -Sometimes people gather different kinds of flowers to make up into a -bouquet called a Midsummer _qvost_. Whoever does it, usually a young -girl, must go alone. If she should encounter anyone, she must only -answer by signs, and must not open her mouth under any circumstances -until she gets home again. She places the bouquet under her pillow, -and never fails to see in her dream her future lover. - -This _qvost_ has many wonderful qualities. It is hung up in the -cattle-house, and if allowed to remain there protects the animals for -a whole year against the _troll_ (witches). - -In some places a medicine is made from it, which will cure all -diseases. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -SOME WELL-KNOWN SWEDES - - -Carl Linnaeus was the son of a poor clergyman, and was born at Rashult, -in the province of Smaland, in 1707. His father wished him to become a -clergyman, but from infancy he showed a great love for flowers, and -made up his mind to study medicine. He was a student at Upsala, where -he underwent great privations, as his father allowed him only eight -pounds per year. He so persevered that he attracted the attention of -the professors, and was commissioned to study the plant-life of -Swedish Lapland. - -Poverty drove him to Holland for his degree as doctor of medicine. He -found a friend there in a Dutch banker, Clifford, who enabled him to -publish many works, in one of which he made known his classification -of plants. At this time he visited London, and when walking on a -common near the City saw furze for the first time. He was so attracted -by the golden bloom of the flower that he fell down on his knees and -admired it. He tried in vain to cultivate it in Sweden. On his return -to Stockholm, he gained a reputation as a physician, but gave up his -profession to be professor of botany in the University where he had -studied. He attracted students from all parts, and gained a world-wide -reputation, his class increasing from five to hundreds. He was made a -noble, and when he died, aged seventy-one years, the King spoke from -the throne of his death as being a national calamity. - -Another man of whom Sweden is justly proud is Baron Johan Jakob -Berzelius, one of the greatest of modern chemists. He is said to rank -next to Linnaeus in science in Sweden. He introduced a set of symbols -on which those in use at the present day are based. The science of -chemistry owes a great deal to the accuracy and extent of his -researches. It is the wonder of many how he could accomplish so much -as he did. He had, like Linnaeus, the gift of perseverance. - -Another well-known Swede is Alfred Nobel, who was born in Stockholm in -1833, and died in 1896. When young, he went with his father to Russia -to help him in the manufacture of submarine mines and torpedoes. He -took out patents for a gasometer and for an apparatus for measuring -liquid. He will, however, always be remembered as the inventor of -dynamite. Many precious lives were lost in the process. It was finally -produced as dynamite gum in 1876. When one thinks of dynamite, -immediately there are brought to the mind war, with all its horrors, -and anarchism, with its bombs and nefarious practices; but it has been -one of the greatest aids to man in his engineering triumphs. By its -aid mountains have been tunnelled and rocks under the water more -easily removed. - -To show how extensively it is being used, in 1870 the total world's -output did not exceed eleven tons. At the present day it annual -tonnage is to be reckoned by the hundred thousand. Works for its -manufacture are all over the world. - -Alfred Nobel left a large fortune, and so arranged that a large sum -should be set aside for five annual prizes of L8,000 each for men who -had distinguished themselves in science, literature, and the promotion -of peace. Men from all parts of the world can compete, and the awards -are made by a committee of Scandinavians. - -Mention must be made of Baron Adolf Nordenskiold (1832-1907), who -reached the highest latitude in the Arctic region till then attained -by any ship, and in the _Vega_ spent two years accomplishing the -North-East Passage. Otto Nordenskiold, a nephew of Baron Adolf, also -sailed in the northern seas, and after two years' exploration -discovered King Oscar Land; and Sven Hedin, who traversed the -countries of Central Asia, and brought to light the secrets of past -ages. - -Sweden stands high in music and song. She has produced many gifted -musicians, but none greater than Jenny Lind, the Swedish Nightingale. -She was born in Stockholm of very humble parentage. One day she, as a -child, was heard singing to her cat. The listener was so entranced -that she was the means of Jenny Lind being brought to the director of -the Royal Opera House, who saw the quality of her voice, and arranged -that she should be educated at Government expense. At the age of -eighteen she made her first appearance. Wherever she went she -captivated the people. She became the favourite of Stockholm, London, -Berlin, and New York. Only eleven years did she remain in opera, and -from religious convictions she resolved to confine herself to the -concert-room. She is known as a singer, but her generosity and -unselfishness will never be forgotten. In one tour in America her -share of the profits was L35,000. More than half of that she spent in -charity in her native land. In one year she raised L10,000 in England -to help deserving institutions. - -Many touching anecdotes of her life are told, to show the character of -the woman. A young man was very ill in Copenhagen when Jenny Lind was -filling the city with excitement. His young wife was full of regrets -that her husband should not hear her. Jenny heard of the desire, and -went on a Sunday afternoon and charmed the two young people with her -voice. - -As she was sitting one day on the sands, with her Bible on her knee, -and looking at the setting sun, a friend said to her: "Oh, how is it -that you ever came to abandon the stage at the very height of your -success?" "When every day," was the quiet answer, "it made me think -less of _this_" (laying a finger on the Bible), "and nothing at all of -_that_" (pointing out to the sunset), "what else could I do?" The -spiritual was the supreme in her. 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