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diff --git a/43314-0.txt b/43314-0.txt index 2c7f95e..a6247b2 100644 --- a/43314-0.txt +++ b/43314-0.txt @@ -1,24 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Adventures on the Roof of the World, by -Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Adventures on the Roof of the World - -Author: Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -Release Date: July 26, 2013 [EBook #43314] - -Language: English - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 43314 *** Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This @@ -8171,366 +8151,4 @@ Kaisserbrunn, 292=> Kaiserbrunn, 292 {index} End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Adventures on the Roof of the World, by Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - -***** This file should be named 43314-8.txt or 43314-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/3/1/43314/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Adventures on the Roof of the World - -Author: Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -Release Date: July 26, 2013 [EBook #43314] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF OF - THE WORLD - - - - - SOME - BOOKS ON MOUNTAINEERING - - - =The Annals of Mont Blanc=: A Monograph. By C. E. MATHEWS, sometime - President of the Alpine Club. With Map, 6 Swan-types and other - Illustrations, and Facsimiles. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s. net. - - =The Life of Man on the High Alps=: Studies made on Monte Rosa. By - ANGELO MOSSO. Translated from the Second Edition of the Italian by - E. LOUGH KIESOW, in collaboration with F. KIESOW. With numerous - Illustrations and Diagrams. Royal 8vo, cloth, 21s. - - =The Early Mountaineers=: The Stories of their Lives. By FRANCIS - GRIBBLE. Fully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s. - - =The Climbs of Norman-Neruda.= Edited, with an Account of his last - Climb, by MAY NORMAN-NERUDA. Demy 8vo, cloth, 21s. - - =In the Ice World of Himalaya.= By FANNY BULLOCK WORKMAN and WILLIAM - HUNTER WORKMAN. With four large Maps and nearly 100 Illustrations. - Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 16s. Also a 6s. Edition. - - =From the Alps to the Andes.= By MATHIAS ZURBRIGGEN. Demy 8vo, cloth, - 10s. 6d. net. - - =Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada.= By CLARENCE KING. Crown 8vo, - cloth, 6s. net. - - =True Tales of Mountain Adventure= (for Non-Climbers, Young and Old). - By Mrs AUBREY LE BLOND (Mrs Main). Demy 8vo, cloth, 10s. 6d. net. - -LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN. - -[Illustration: THE FINDING OF THE LAST BIVOUAC OF MESSRS. DONKIN AND FOX -IN THE CAUCASUS. (P. 116.) - -From a drawing by Mr. Willink after a sketch by Captain Powell. Taken, -by kind permission of Mr. Douglas Freshfield, from "The Exploration of -the Caucasus." - -_Frontispiece._] - - - - - ADVENTURES ON THE - ROOF OF THE WORLD - - BY - MRS AUBREY LE BLOND - (MRS MAIN) - - AUTHOR OF - "MY HOME IN THE ALPS," "TRUE TALES OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE," ETC. - - _ILLUSTRATED_ - - [Illustration: colophon] - - LONDON - T. FISHER UNWIN - PATERNOSTER SQUARE - 1904 - - (_All rights reserved._) - - - - - TO - - JOSEPH IMBODEN - - MY GUIDE AND FRIEND FOR TWENTY YEARS, - - I dedicate - - THESE RECORDS OF A PASTIME IN WHICH I OWE - - MY SHARE TO HIS SKILL, COURAGE, AND - - HELPFUL COMPANIONSHIP. - - - - -PREFACE - - -"Dear heart," said Tommy, when Mr Barlow had finished his narrative, -"what a number of accidents people are subject to in this world!" - -"It is very true," answered Mr Barlow, "but as that is the case, it is -necessary to improve ourselves in every possible manner, so that we may -be able to struggle against them." - -Thus quoted, from _Sandford and Merton_, a president of the Alpine Club. -The following True Tales from the Hills, if they serve to emphasise not -only the perils of mountaineering but the means by which they can be -lessened, will have accomplished the aim of their editor. - -This book is not intended for the climber. To him most of the tales will -be familiar in the volumes on the shelves of his library or on the lips -of his companions during restful hours in the Alps. But the non-climber -rarely sees _The Alpine Journal_ and the less popular books on -mountaineering, nor would he probably care to search in their pages for -narratives likely to interest him. - -To seek out tales of adventure easily intelligible to the non-climber, -to edit them in popular form, to point out the lessons which most -adventures can teach to those who may climb themselves one day, has -occupied many pleasant hours, rendered doubly so by the feeling that I -shall again come into touch with the readers who gave so kindly a -greeting to my _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_. In that work I tried -to explain the principles of mountaineering and something of the nature -of glaciers and avalanches. Those chapters will, I think, be found -helpful by non-climbers who read the present volume. - -For much kindly advice and help in compiling this work I am indebted to -Mr Henry Mayhew, of the British Museum, and to Mr Clinton Dent. Mrs -Maund has enabled me to quote from a striking article by her late -husband. Sir W. Martin Conway, Sir H. Seymour King, Messrs Tuckett, G. -E. Foster, Cecil Slingsby, Harold Spender, and Edward Fitzgerald have -been good enough to allow me to make long extracts from their writings. -Messrs Newnes have generously permitted me to quote from articles which -appeared in their publications, and the editor of _The Cornhill_ has -sanctioned my reprinting portions of a paper from his magazine. I am -also indebted to the editor of _M'Clure's Magazine_ for a similar -courtesy. - -Mons. A. Campagne, Inspector of Water and Forests (France), allows me to -make use of two very interesting photographs from his work on the Valley -of Barge. Several friends have lent me photographs for reproduction in -this work, and their names appear under each of the illustrations I owe -to them. Messrs Spooner have kindly allowed me to use several by the -late Mr W. F. Donkin. When not otherwise stated, the photographs are -from my own negatives. - -I take this opportunity of heartily thanking those climbers, some of -them personally unknown to me, whose assistance has rendered this work -possible. - -E. LE BLOND. - -67 THE DRIVE, -BRIGHTON, _December 1903_. - - - - -CONTENTS - - -CHAP. PAGE - - PREFACE ix - - I. SOME TALES OF ALPINE GUIDES 1 - - II. TWO DAYS ON AN ICE-SLOPE 23 - - III. SOME AVALANCHE ADVENTURES 51 - - IV. A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE 65 - - V. A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE (_continued_) 81 - - VI. AN EXCITING CAUCASIAN ASCENT 99 - - VII. A MELANCHOLY QUEST 116 - -VIII. SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND FATAL ACCIDENTS 124 - - IX. A NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE DENT BLANCHE 152 - - X. ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE 167 - - XI. A STIRRING DAY ON THE ROSETTA 182 - - XII. THE ZINAL ROTHHORN TWICE IN ONE DAY 195 - -XIII. BENIGHTED ON A SNOW PEAK 208 - - XIV. THE STORY OF A BIG JUMP 222 - - XV. A PERILOUS FIRST ASCENT 235 - -XVI. THUNDERSTORMS IN THE ALPS 257 - -XVII. LANDSLIPS IN THE MOUNTAINS 275 - -XVIII. SOME TERRIBLE EXPERIENCES 291 - -XIX. FALLING STONES AND FALLING BODIES 310 - -GLOSSARY 327 - -INDEX 329 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - -The last bivouac of Messrs Donkin and Fox -in the Caucasus _Frontispiece_ - -Christian Almer, Joseph Imboden, Jean -Antoine Carrel, Alexander Burgener _To face page_ 3 - -The last steep bit near the top--At the end -of a hot day--An instant's halt to choose -the best way up a steep wall of rock--The -ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, -to be brought up by the last man " " 6 - -Auguste Gentinetta--Auguste Gentinetta -on the way to the Matterhorn--The -beginning of the climb up the Matterhorn--The -spot where was the _bergschrund_ -into which Mr Sloggett's party -fell " " 8 - -Auguste Gentinetta on a mountain-top--The -ice-cliffs over which Mr Sloggett's party -would have fallen had they not been -dashed into the _bergschrund_--The -ruined chapel by the Schwarzsee--The -last resting-place at Zermatt of some -English climbers " " 11 - -On a snow ridge--A halt for lunch above -the snow-line--Mrs Aubrey Le Blond " " 51 - -A cutting through an avalanche--The -remains of an avalanche--An avalanche -of stones--A mountain chapel " " 59 - -A mountain path--Peasants of the -mountains--A village buried beneath an -avalanche--Terraces planted to -prevent avalanches " " 65 - -A typical Caucasian landscape " " 105 - -Melchior Anderegg, his son and grandchild " " 124 - -Crevasses and sracs--On the border of a -crevasse--A snow bridge--Soft snow in -the afternoon " " 133 - -The Btemps Hut--Ski-ing--A fall on Skis--A -great crevasse " " 137 - -The balloon "Stella" getting ready to start -(p. 301)--A bivouac in the olden days--Boulder -practice--The last rocks -descending " " 148 - -Provisions for a mountain hotel--An outlook -over rock and snow--Dent Blanche -from Schwarzsee (winter)--Dent Blanche -from Theodule Glacier (summer) " " 152 - -Hut on Col de Brtol--Ascending the -Aiguilles Rouges--Summit of the Dent -Blanche--Cornice on the Dent Blanche " " 156 - -Ambrose Supersax (p. 209)--View from the -Rosetta " " 182 - -Climbing party leaving Zermatt--The -Gandegg Hut--The Trift Hotel--Zinal -Rothhorn from Trift Valley " " 195 - -Zinal Rothhorn--Top of a Chamonix Aiguille--A -steep face of rock--"Leading -strings" " " 202 - -A _bergschrund_--Homewards over the snow-slopes " " 230 - -The Ecrins--Clouds breaking over a ridge--Summit -of the Jungfrau--Wind-blown -snow " " 235 - -The Ecrins from the Glacier Blanc " " 247 - -Slab climbing--A rock ridge--On the Dent -du Gant--The top at last " " 252 - -The second largest glacier in the Alps--On -a ridge in the Oberland " " 259 - -Thirteen thousand feet above the sea--On -the Furggen Grat--A "personally -conducted" party on the Breithorn--Packing -the knapsack " " 269 - -Monte Rosa from the Furggen Grat--The -Matterhorn from the Wellenkuppe " " 272 - -A glacier lake--Amongst the sracs--Taking -off the rope--Water at last! " " 297 - -The balloon "Stella" starting from Zermatt--A -moment after " " 298 - -The Matterhorn from the Hrnli Ridge--The -Matterhorn from the Furgg Glacier--Joseph -Biner--The Matterhorn Hut " " 302 - -A hot day on a mountain-top--A summit -near Saas--Luncheon _en route_ (winter)--Luncheon -on a glacier pass (summer) " " 310 - -A tedious snow-slope--A sitting glissade--A -glacier-capped summit--On the -frontier " " 312 - -Unpleasant going--On the crest of an old -moraine " " 317 - -An awkward bit of climbing--Guides at -Zermatt--The Boval Hut--_Au revoir!_ " " 322 - - - - -ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF OF THE WORLD - - - - -CHAPTER I - -SOME TALES OF ALPINE GUIDES - - -In a former work, I have given some details of the training of an Alpine -guide, so I will not repeat them here. - -The mountain guides of Switzerland form a class unlike any other, yet in -the high standard of honour and devotion they display towards those in -their charge, one is reminded of two bodies of men especially deserving -of respect and confidence, namely, the Civil Guards of Spain and the -Royal Irish Constabulary. Like these, the Alpine guide oftentimes risks -his health, strength--even his life--for persons who are sometimes in -themselves the cause of the peril encountered. Like these, mere bodily -strength and the best will in the world need to be associated with -intelligence and foresight. Like these, also, keen, fully-developed -powers of observation are essential. A certain climber of early days has -wittily related in _The Alpine Journal_ a little anecdote which bears on -this point. "Some years ago," writes the late Mr F. Craufurd Grove, "a -member of this Club was ascending a small and easy peak in company with -a famous Oberland guide. Part of their course lay over a snow-field -sinking gradually on one side, sharply ended by a precipice on the -other. The two were walking along, not far from the edge of this -precipice, when the Englishman, thinking that an easier path might be -made by going still nearer the edge, diverged a little from his -companion's track. To his considerable surprise, the guide immediately -caught hold of him, and pulled him back with a great deal more vigour -than ceremony, well-nigh throwing him down in the operation. Wrathful, -and not disinclined to return the compliment, the Englishman -remonstrated. The guide's only answer was to point to a small crack, -apparently like scores of other cracks in the _nv_, which ran for some -distance parallel to the edge of the precipice, and about 15 feet from -it. - -[Illustration: JEAN ANTOINE CARREL OF VALOURNANCHE. - -By Signor Vittorio Sella.] - -[Illustration: CHRISTIAN ALMER OF GRINDELWALD.] - -[Illustration: ALEXANDER BURGENER OF EISTEN (SAASTHAL).] - -[Illustration: JOSEPH IMBODEN OF ST. NICHOLAS. - -_To face p. 3._] - -"The traveller was not satisfied, but he was too wise a man to spend -time in arguing and disputing, while a desired summit was still some -distance above him. They went on their way, gained the top, and the -traveller's equanimity was restored by a splendid view. When, on the -descent, the scene of the morning's incident was reached, the guide -pointed to the little crack in the _nv_, which had grown perceptibly -wider. 'This marks,' he said, 'the place where the true snow-field ends. -I feel certain that the ice from here to the edge is nothing but an -unsupported cornice hanging over the tremendous precipice beneath. It -might possibly have borne your weight in the early morning, though I -don't think it would. As to what it will bear now that a powerful sun -has been on it for some time--why, let us see.' Therewith he struck the -_nv_ on the further side of the ice sharply with his axe. A huge mass, -some 20 or 30 feet long, immediately broke away, and went roaring down -the cliff in angry avalanche. Whereat the traveller was full of -amazement and admiration, and thought how there, on an easy mountain and -in smiling weather, he had not been very far from making himself into an -avalanche, to his own great discomfort and to the infinite tribulation -of the Alpine Club." - -A fatal accident was only narrowly averted by the skill of the famous -guide Zurbriggen when making an ascent in the New Zealand Alps with Mr -Edward Fitzgerald. I am indebted to this gentleman for permission to -quote the account from his article in _The Alpine Journal_. - -The party were making the ascent of Mount Sefton, and were much troubled -by the looseness of the rock on the almost vertical face which they had -to climb. However, at last they reached a ridge, "along which," writes -Mr Fitzgerald, "we proceeded between two precipices, descending to the -Copland and to the Mueller valleys--some 6000 feet sheer drop on either -hand. - -"We had next to climb about 300 feet of almost perpendicular cliff. The -rocks were peculiarly insecure, and we were obliged to move by turns, -wherever possible throwing down such rocks as seemed most dangerous. At -times even this resource was denied us, so dangerous was the violent -concussion with which these falling masses would shake the ridge to -which we clung. I carried both the ice axes, so as to leave Zurbriggen -both hands free to test each rock as he slowly worked his way upwards, -while I did my utmost to avoid being in a position vertically beneath -him. - -"Suddenly, as I was coming up a steep bit, while Zurbriggen waited for -me a few steps above, a large boulder, which I touched with my right -hand, gave way with a crash and fell, striking my chest. I had been just -on the point of passing up the two ice axes to Zurbriggen, that he might -place them in a cleft of rock a little higher up, and thus leave me -both hands free for my climb. He was in the act of stooping and -stretching out his arms to take them from my uplifted left hand, and the -slack rope between us lay coiled at his feet. The falling boulder hurled -me down head foremost, and I fell about 8 feet, turning a complete -somersault in the air. Suddenly I felt the rope jerk, and I struck -against the side of the mountain with great force. I feared I should be -stunned and drop the two ice axes, and I knew that on these our lives -depended. Without them we should never have succeeded in getting down -the glacier, through all the intricate ice-fall. - -"After the rope had jerked me up I felt it again slip and give way, and -I came down slowly for a couple of yards. I took this to mean that -Zurbriggen was being wrenched from his foot-hold, and I was just -contemplating how I should feel dashing down the 6000 feet below, and -wondering vaguely how many times I should strike the rocks on the way. I -saw the block that I had dislodged going down in huge bounds; it struck -the side three or four times, and then, taking an enormous plunge of -about 2000 feet, embedded itself in the glacier now called the Tuckett -Glacier. - -"I felt the rope stop and pull me up short. I called to Zurbriggen and -asked him if he were solidly placed. I was now swinging in the air like -a pendulum, with my back to the mountain, scarcely touching the rock -face. It would have required a great effort to turn round and grasp the -rock, and I was afraid the strain which would thus necessarily be placed -on the rope might dislodge Zurbriggen. - -"His first fear was that I had been half killed, for he saw the rock -fall almost on top of me; but, as a matter of fact, after striking my -chest it had glanced off to the right and passed under my right arm; it -had started from a point so very near to me that it had not time to gain -sufficient impetus to strike me with great force. Zurbriggen's first -words were, 'Are you very much hurt?' I answered, 'No,' and again I -asked him whether he were firmly placed. 'No,' he replied, 'I am very -badly situated here. Turn round as soon as you can; I cannot hold you -much longer.' I gave a kick at the rocks with one foot, and with a great -effort managed to swing myself round. - -"Luckily there was a ledge near me, and so, getting some hand-hold, I -was soon able to ease the strain on the rope. A few moments later I -struggled a little way up, and at last handed to Zurbriggen the ice -axes, which I had managed to keep hold of throughout my fall. In fact, -my thoughts had been centred on them during the whole of the time. We -were in too bad a place to stop to speak to one another; but -Zurbriggen, climbing up a bit further, got himself into a firm position, -and I scrambled up after him, so that in about ten minutes we had passed -this steep bit. - -[Illustration: The last steep bit near the top.] - -[Illustration: An instant's halt to choose the best way up a steep wall -of rock.] - -[Illustration: At the end of a hot day.] - -[Illustration: The ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, to be brought up -by the last man. - -_To face p. 6._] - -"We now sat for a moment to recover ourselves, for our nerves had been -badly shaken by what had so nearly proved a fatal accident. At the time -everything happened so rapidly that we had not thought much of it, more -especially as we knew that we needed to keep our nerve and take -immediate action; but once it was all over we both felt the effects, and -sat for about half an hour before we could even move again. I learned -that Zurbriggen, the moment I fell, had snatched up the coil of rope -which lay at his feet, and had luckily succeeded in getting hold of the -right end first, so that he was soon able to bring me nearly to rest; -but the pull upon him was so great, and he was so badly placed, that he -had to let the rope slip through his fingers, removing all the skin, in -order to ease the strain while he braced himself in a better position, -from which he was able finally to stop me. He told me that had I not -been able to turn and grasp the rocks he must inevitably have been -dragged from his foot-hold, as the ledge upon which he stood was -literally crumbling away beneath his feet. We discovered that two -strands of the rope had been cut through by the falling rock, so that I -had been suspended in mid-air by a single strand." - -The remainder of the way was far from easy, but without further mishap -the party eventually gained the summit. - -That there are many grades of Alpine guides was amusingly exemplified -once upon a time at the Montanvert, where in front of the hotel stood -the famous Courmazeur guide, Emil Rey (afterwards killed on the Dent du -Gant), talking to the Duke of Abruzzi and other first-rate climbers, -while a little way off lounged some extremely indifferent specimens of -the Chamonix _Societ des Guides_. Presently a tourist, got up with much -elegance, and leaning on a tall stick surmounted by a chamois horn, -appeared upon the scene, and addressed himself to Emil Rey. "Combien -pour traverser la Mer de Glace?" he enquired. - -"Monsieur," replied Rey, removing his hat with one hand and with the -other indicating the group hard by, "voila les guides pour la Mer de -Glace! Moi, je suis pour la grande montagne!" - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta, of Zermatt, 1903.] - -[Illustration: The climb up the Matterhorn by the ordinary Swiss route -begins at the rocky corner to the left of the picture.] - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta on the way to the Matterhorn.] - -[Illustration: The BERGSCHRUND, open when the accident to Mr. Sloggett's -party took place, was above the ice cliff below which the man is -standing. - -_To face p. 8._] - -One of the most wonderful escapes in the whole annals of mountaineering -was that of a young Englishman, Mr Sloggett, and the well-known guide, -Auguste Gentinetta, the second guide, Alphons Frrer, being killed on -the spot. They had made a successful ascent of the Matterhorn on 27th -July 1900, and were the first of three parties on the descent. When -nearly down the mountain, not far from the Hrnli ridge, an avalanche of -stones and rocks swept them off their feet. Frrer's skull was smashed, -and he was killed immediately, and the three, roped together, were -precipitated down a wall of ice. Their axes were wrenched from their -grasp, and they could do nothing to check themselves. Gentinetta -retained full consciousness during the whole of that awful descent, and -while without the slightest hope that they could escape with their -lives, he in no way lost his presence of mind. About 800 feet below the -spot where their fall commenced was a small _Bergschrund_, or crack -across the ice. This was full of stones and sand, and into it the -helpless climbers were flung; had they shot over it nothing in this -world could have saved them. Gentinetta, though much bruised and knocked -about, had no bones broken, and he at once took means to prevent an even -worse disaster than that which had already happened, for Mr Sloggett had -fallen head downwards, with his face buried in sand, and was on the -point of suffocation. Well was it for him that his guide was a man of -promptness and courage. Without losing an instant Gentinetta pulled up -his traveller and got his face free, clearing the sand out of his mouth, -and doing all that mortal could for him. Mr Sloggett's jaw and two of -his teeth were broken, but his other injuries were far less than might -have been expected. Nevertheless, the position of the two survivors was -still a most perilous one. They were exactly at the spot on to which -almost every stone which detached itself from that side of the mountain -was sure to fall, and their ice axes were lost, rendering it almost -impossible for them to work their way to a place of safety. Still, to -his infinite credit, the guide did not lose heart. By some means, which -he now declares he is unable to understand, he contrived to climb, and -to assist his gentleman, up that glassy, blood-stained wall, which even -for a party uninjured, and properly equipped, it would have been no -light task to surmount. This desperate achievement was rendered doubly -trying by Gentinetta's being perfectly aware that if any more stones -fell the two mountaineers must inevitably be swept away for the second -time. At last they gained their tracks and sought a sheltered spot, -where they could safely rest a little. Here they were joined by the -other parties, who rendered invaluable help during the rest of the -descent. The two sufferers finally arrived at the Schwarzsee Hotel, -whence they were carried down the same evening to Zermatt. - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta on a Mountain Top, 1903.] - -[Illustration: The ruined Chapel by the Schwarzsee.] - -[Illustration: The cliff of ice over which Mr. Sloggett's party must -have precipitated if they had not been dashed into the BERGSCHRUND.] - -[Illustration: The last resting place at Zermatt of some English -climbers. - -_To face p. 11._] - -The next day a strong party started for the scene of the accident to -recover the body of the dead guide, Frrer. It was a difficult and a -dangerous task, and those who examined the wall down which the fall -took place expressed their amazement that two wounded men, without axes, -should have performed what seemed the incredible feat of getting up it. - -Both Mr Sloggett and Gentinetta made an excellent recovery, though they -were laid up for many weeks after their memorable descent of the -Matterhorn. - -The qualities found in a first-class guide include not only skill in -climbing, but the ability to form a sound conclusion when overtaken by -storm and mist. The following experience which took place in 1874, and -which I am permitted by Mrs Maund to quote from her late husband's -article in _The Alpine Journal_, proves, by its happy termination, that -Maurer's judgment in a critical position was thoroughly to be relied on. -Mr Maund had just arrived at La Brarde, in Dauphin, and he writes:-- - -"The morning of the 29th broke wet and stormy, and Rodier strongly -advised me not to start; this, however, was out of the question, as I -was due at La Grave on that day to keep my appointment with Mr -Middlemore. After waiting an hour, to give the weather a chance, we -started in drizzling rain at 5 A.M. Desolate as the Val des tanons -must always look, it appeared doubly gloomy that morning, with its -never-ending monotony of rock and moraine unrelieved by a single patch -of green. As we neared the glacier, the weather fortunately cleared, -and the clouds, which till then had enveloped everything, began to mount -with that marvellous rapidity only noticeable in mountain districts, -leaving half revealed the mighty cliffs of the Meije towering 5000 feet -almost sheer above us. As the wind caught and carried into the air the -frozen sheets of snow on his summit, the old mountain looked like some -giant bill distributer throwing his advertisements about. Entirely -protected from the wind, we whiled away an hour and a half, searching -with our telescope for any feasible line of attack. Having satisfied -ourselves that on this side the mountain presented enormous, if not -insurmountable, difficulties, we shouldered our packs and made tracks -for the Brche, which we reached at 11.45. - -"Meanwhile the weather had become worse again, and during the last part -of the ascent it was snowing heavily; the wind too, from which we had -been protected on the south side of the col, was so strong that we were -absolutely obliged to crawl over to the north side. Our position was by -no means a pleasant one; neither Martin nor I knew anything of the pass, -and Rodier, who had told us overnight that he had crossed it more than -once, seemed to know no more, and although sure of the exact bearing of -La Grave, we could not, owing to the fast falling snow, see further -than 300 or 400 yards in advance; added to this, it was intensely cold. -Having paid Rodier 20 francs (a perfect waste of money, as it is -impossible to mistake the way to the Brche from the Val des tanons, -and, as I have said, he could not give us the least clue to the descent -on the La Grave side), we dismissed him, hoping devoutly that he might -break his--well, his ice axe, we'll say--on the way down. By keeping -away to the right of the Brche and down a steep slope, we crossed the -crevasses which lay at its base without difficulty. We then bore to the -left across a plateau, on which the snow lay very deep; floundering -through this sometimes waist deep, we reached the upper ice-fall of the -glacier, and after crossing several crevasses became involved in a -perfect net-work of them. After a consultation, we determined to try to -the right, but met with no better success, as again we were checked by -an absolute labyrinth. At last, about five o'clock, we took to some -rocks which divide the glacier into two branches. Meanwhile the snow was -falling thicker and thicker, and, driven by the strong N.W. wind which -caught up and eddied about what had already fallen, it appeared to come -from every quarter at once. It was impossible to see more than a few -yards in advance, and the rocks which under ordinary circumstances -would have been easy, were, with their coating of at least 4 inches of -snow, much the reverse, as it was quite impossible to see where to put -hand or foot. Our only trust was in our compass, which assured us that -while keeping to the backbone of this ridge we were descending in an -almost direct line towards La Grave. - -"We had at most two hours of daylight before us, but there was still a -hope that by following our present line we should get off the glacier -before dark. How I regretted now the time lost in the morning. A little -before seven we were brought to a standstill; our further direct descent -was cut off by a precipice, while the rocks on either side fell almost -sheer to the glaciers beneath. It was too late to think of looking for -another road, so nothing now remained but to find the best shelter we -could and bivouac for the night. We re-ascended to a small platform we -had passed a short time before, and selecting the biggest and most -sheltered bit of rock on it, we piled up the few movable stones there -were about, to form the outside wall to our shelter, and having cleared -away as much of the snow as we could from the inside, laid our ice axes -across the top as rafters, with a sodden mackintosh--ironically called a -waterproof by Mr Carter--over all for a roof. Despite this garment, I -was wet to the skin. Luckily, we had each of us a spare flannel shirt -and stockings in our knapsacks, but as the meagre dimensions of our -shelter would not admit of the struggles attendant on a change, we were -obliged to go through the operation outside. I tried to be cheerful, and -Martin tried to be facetious as we wrung out our wet shirts while the -snow beat on our bare backs, but both attempts were lamentable failures. -If up to the present time my readers have not stripped in a snow-storm, -let me strongly advise them never to attempt it. Having got through the -performance as quickly as possible, we crawled into our shelter, but -here again my ill luck followed me, for in entering I managed to tread -on the tin wine-flask which Martin had thrown aside, and, my weight -forcing out the cork, every drop of wine escaped. After packing myself -away as well as I could in the shape of a pot-hook, Martin followed, and -pot-hooked himself alongside me. We were obliged to assume this -elementary shape, as the size of our shelter would not admit of our -lying straight. All the provisions that remained were then produced. -They consisted of a bit of bread about the size of a breakfast-roll, -one-third of a small pot of preserved meat, about two ounces of raw -bacon with the hide on, and half a small flask of a filthy compound -called Genpie, a sort of liqueur; besides this, we mustered between us -barely a pipe-full of tobacco, and eight matches in a metal-box. The -provisions I divided into three equal parts--one-third for that night's -supper, and the remaining two-thirds for the next day. I need not -enlarge on the miseries of that night. The wind blew through the chinks -between the stones, bringing the snow with it, until the place seemed -all chinks; then the mackintosh with its weight of snow would come in -upon us, and we had with infinite difficulty to prop it up again, only -to go through the same operation an hour later; at last, in sheer -despair, we let it lie where it fell, and found to our relief it kept us -warmer in that position. The snow never ceased one moment although the -wind had fallen, and when morning broke there must have been nearly a -foot of it around and over us. A more desolate picture than that dawn I -have never seen. Snow everywhere. The rocks buried in it, and not a -point peeping out to relieve the unbroken monotony. The sky full of it, -without a break to relieve its leaden sameness, and the heavy flakes -falling with that persistent silence which adds so much to the -desolation of such a scene. - -"I was all for starting; for making some attempt either to get down, or -to recross the col. Martin was dead against it--and I think now he was -right. First of all, we could not have seen more than a few yards ahead; -the rocks would have been considerably worse than they were the evening -before, and if we had once got involved amongst the crevasses it was on -the cards that we shouldn't get clear of them again; added to this, even -if we could hit off the col, what with want of sleep and food, and the -fatigue consequent on several hours' floundering in deep snow, we might -not have strength to reach it. At any rate, we decided not to start -until it cleared sufficiently to let us see where we were going. Our -meagre stock of provisions was redivided into three parts, one of which -we ate for breakfast. I then produced the pipe, but to our horror we -found the matches were still damp. Martin, who is a man of resource, -immediately opened his shirt and put the box containing them under his -arm to dry. Meanwhile the snow never ceased, and the day wore on without -a sign of the weather breaking. If it had not been for the excitement of -those matches, I do not know how we should have got through that day; at -last, however, after about six hours of Martin's fond embrace, one -consented to burn, and I succeeded in lighting the pipe. We took turns -at twelve whiffs each, and no smoke, I can conscientiously say, have I -ever enjoyed like that one. During this never-ending day we got a few -snatches of sleep, but the cold consequent on our wet clothes was so -great, our position so cramped, and the rocks on which we lay so -abominably sharp, that these naps were of the shortest duration. - -"A little before six the snow ceased, and for a moment the sun tried to -wink at us through a chink in his snow-charged blanket, before he went -to bed--long enough, however, for us to see La Grave far below, with -every alp almost down to the village itself covered with its white -mantle. - -"And then, as our second night closes in, the snow recommences, and we -draw closer together even than before; for we feel that during the long -hours to come we must economise to the fullest the little animal heat -left in us. - -"That night I learnt to shiver, not the ordinary shivers, but fits -lasting a quarter of an hour, during which no amount of moral persuasion -could keep your limbs under control; and it was so catching! If either -of us began a solo, the other was sure to join in, and we shivered a -duet until quite exhausted. As we had nothing to drink, I had swallowed -a considerable quantity of snow to quench my thirst, and this, acting on -an almost empty stomach, produced burning heat within, while the cold, -which was now intense, acting externally, induced fever and -light-headedness, and once or twice I caught myself rambling. Martin, -too, was affected in the same way. The long hours wore on, and still -there was no sign of better weather. Towards midnight things looked very -serious. Martin, who had behaved like a brick, thought 'it was very hard -to perish like this in the flower of his age,' and I, too, thought of -writing a line as well as I was able in my pocket-book, bequeathing its -contents to my finder, then of sleeping if I could and waking up with -the Houris; but I had the laugh of him afterwards, because he thought -aloud and I to myself. However, this mood did not last long, and after -shaking hands, I do not quite know why, because we had not quarrelled, -we cuddled up again, and determined, whatever the weather, to start at -daybreak. In half an hour the snow ceased, the wind backed to the S., -and the temperature rose as if by magic; while the snow melting above -trickled down in little streams upon us. We cleared the snow off the -mackintosh, and putting it over us again, slept like logs in comparative -warmth. When I awoke the sun was well up, and on looking round I could -hardly realise the scene. Not a cloud in the sky! Not a breath of wind! -The rocks around us, which yesterday were absolutely buried, were -showing their black heads everywhere, and only a few inches of snow -remained, so rapid had been the thaw; while far away to the N. the -snow-capped summits of the Pennine Alps stood out in bold relief against -the cloudless sky. - -"I woke Martin, and at a quarter to six, after thirty-five hours' -burial, we crawled out of our shelter. At first neither of us could -stand, so chilled were we by long exposure, and so cramped by our -enforced position, but after a good thaw in the hot sun we managed to -hobble about, and pack the knapsacks. After eating the few scraps that -remained, we started at seven o'clock up the ridge that we had descended -two days before. - -"We were very shaky on our legs at first, but at each step the stiffness -seemed to wear off, and after half an hour we quite recovered their use; -but there remained an all-pervading sense of emptiness inside that was -not exhilarating. After ascending a short distance, and with my -telescope carefully examining the rocks, we determined to descend to the -glacier below us (the western branch), and crossing this get on to some -more rocks beneath the lower ice-fall. If we could get down these our -way seemed clear. - -"I won't trouble you with the details of the descent: suffice it to say -that, without encountering any difficulty, we stepped on to grass about -twelve o'clock, and descending green slopes, still patched here and -there with snow (which would have provided sufficient Edelweiss for all -the hats of the S.A.C.), we arrived safely at La Grave, after a pleasant -little outing of fifty-six hours. Mr Middlemore, despairing of my -coming, had started for England the night before, and had left Jaun to -await my arrival. - -"After a hot bath, and some bread-crumbs soaked in warm wine, I went to -bed, and the next morning I awoke as well as I am now, with the -exception of stiffness in the knees, and a slight frost-bite on one -hand. Martin, however, who, I suspect, had eaten a good deal on his -arrival, was seized with severe cramp, and for some hours was very ill. - -"Two days' rest put us all to rights again." - -Though rivalry may be keen between first-class guides, and bitter things -be said now and then in the heat of the struggle for first place, yet -when a great guide has passed away, it is seldom that one hears anything -but good of him. A pretty story is told--and I believe it is true--of -the son of old Maquignaz of Valtournanche, which exemplifies this -chivalrous trait. Maquignaz and Jean Antoine Carrel were often in -competition in the early days of systematic climbing, and if not -enemies, they were at any rate hardly bosom friends. Carrel's tragic and -noble death on the Matterhorn will be recalled by readers of my _True -Tales of Mountain Adventure_. Not very long ago a French climber was -making an ascent of the Italian side of the Matterhorn, with "young" -Maquignaz as guide. "Where did Carrel fall?" he innocently enquired, as -they ascended the precipitous cliffs on the Breuil side of the mountain. -Young Maquignaz turned sharply to him and exclaimed: "Carrel n'est pas -tomb! _Il est mort!_" - - - - -CHAPTER II - -TWO DAYS ON AN ICE-SLOPE - - -There are few instances so striking of the capacity of a party of -thoroughly experienced mountaineers to get out of a really tight place, -as was the outcome of the two days spent by Messrs Mummery, Slingsby, -and Ellis Carr, on an ice slope in the Mont Blanc district. The party -intended trying to ascend the Aiguille du Plan direct from the Chamonix -valley. Mr Ellis Carr has generously given me permission to make use of -his account, which I quote from _The Alpine Journal_. He relates the -adventures of himself and his two friends, whose names are household -words to climbers, as follows:-- - -"Mummery, Slingsby, and I started at 4 P.M., with a porter carrying the -material for our camp. This comprised a silk tent of Mummery's pattern, -only weighing 1 to 2 lbs.; three eider-down sleeping-bags, 9 lbs.; -cooking apparatus of thin tin, 1 lbs.; or, with ropes, rucksacks, and -sundries, about 25 lbs., in addition to the weight of the provisions. -Though not unduly burdened, the porter found the valley of boulders -exceedingly troublesome, and in spite of three distinct varieties of -advice as to the easiest route across them, made such miserably slow -progress, often totally disappearing amongst the rocks like a -water-logged ship in a trough of the sea, that we were forced to pitch -our tents on the right moraine of the Nantillons Glacier, instead of -near the base of our peak, as intended. The _gte_, built up with stones -on the slope of the moraine, with earth raked into the interstices, was -sufficiently comfortable to afford Mummery and myself some sleep. A -stone, however, far surpassing the traditional _gte_ lump in aggressive -activity, seemed, most undeservedly, to have singled out Slingsby as its -innocent victim, and, judging by the convulsions of his sleeping-bag, -and the sighs and thumps which were in full swing every time I woke up, -it must have kept him pretty busy all night dodging its attacks from -side to side. His account of his sufferings next morning, when Mummery -and I were admittedly awake, fully confirmed and explained these -phenomena, but on going for the enemy by daylight, he had the -satisfaction of finding that he had suffered quite needlessly, the stone -being loose and easily removed. We used Mummery's silk tent for the -first time, and found that it afforded ample room for three men to lie -at full length without crowding. The night, however, was too fine and -still to test the weather-resisting power of the material, and as this -was thin enough to admit sufficient moonlight to illuminate the interior -of the tent, and make candle or lamp superfluous, we inferred that it -might possibly prove to be equally accommodating in the case of rain and -wind. It was necessary, moreover, on entering or leaving the tent, to -adopt that form of locomotion to which the serpent was condemned to -avoid the risk of unconsciously carrying away the whole structure on -one's back. We started next morning about three o'clock, leaving the -camp kit ready packed for the porter, whom we had instructed to fetch it -during the day, and pushed on to the glacier at the foot of our mountain -at a steady pace, maintained in my case with much greater ease than -would have otherwise been possible by virtue of some long, -single-pointed screw spikes inserted overnight in my boot soles; and I -may here venture to remark that a few of these spikes, screwed into the -boots before starting on an expedition where much ice-work is expected, -appear to offer a welcome compromise between ponderous crampons and -ordinary nails. They do not, I think, if not too numerous, interfere -with rock-climbing, and can be repeatedly renewed when worn down. A -slight modification in the shape would further facilitate their being -screwed in with a box key made to fit.[1] - -"Leaving the rock buttress, the scene of our reconnaissance on the 11th, -on the right, we struck straight up the glacier basin between it and the -Aiguille de Blaitire, which glacier appeared to me to be largely -composed of broken fragments of ice mixed with avalanche snow from the -hanging glaciers and slopes above. Keeping somewhat to the left, we -reached the _bergschrund_, which proved to be of considerable size, -extending along the whole base of the couloir, and crossed it at a point -immediately adjoining the rocks on the left. The axe at once came into -requisition, and we cut steadily in hard ice up and across the couloir -towards the small rib or island of rock before-mentioned as dividing it -higher up into two portions. The rocks at the base of this rib, though -steep, gritty, and loose, offered more rapid going than the ice, and we -climbed then to a gap on the ridge above, commanding a near view of the -perpendicular country in front of us. Far above us, and immediately over -the top of the right-hand section of the couloir, towered the ice cliffs -of the hanging glacier we had tried to reach on the 11th, and beyond -these again, in the grey morning light, we caught the glimpse of a -second and even a third rank of _sracs_ in lofty vista higher up the -mountain. As before observed, this section of the couloir seemed -admirably placed for receiving ice-falls, and we now saw that it formed -part of the natural channel for snow and _dbris_ from each and all of -these glaciers. We therefore directed our attention to our friend on the -left, and after a halt for breakfast, traversed the still remaining -portion of the dividing ridge, turning a small rock pinnacle on its -right, and recommenced cutting steps in the hard ice which faced us. As -has been before remarked, it is difficult to avoid over-estimating the -steepness of ice-slopes, but, allowing for any tendency towards -exaggeration, I do not think I am wrong in fixing the angle of the -couloir from this point as not less than 50. We kept the axe steadily -going, and with an occasional change of leader, after some hours' -unceasing work, found ourselves approaching the base of the upper -portion of the couloir, which from below had appeared perpendicular. We -paused to consider the situation. For at least 80 to 100 feet the ice -rose at an angle of 60 to 70, cutting off all view of the face above, -with no flanking wall of rock on the right, but bounded on the left by -an overhanging cliff, which dripped slightly with water from melting -snow above. The morning was well advanced, and we kept a sharp look-out -aloft for any stray stones which might fancy a descent in our direction. -None came, and we felt gratified at this confirmation of our judgment -as to the safety of this part of the couloir. However, the time for -chuckling had not yet come. As I stated, we had halted to inspect the -problem before us. Look as we might we could discover no possibility of -turning the ice wall either to the right or left, and though, as we -fondly believed and hoped, it formed the only barrier to easier going -above, the terrible straightness and narrowness of the way was -sufficient to make the very boldest pause to consider the strength of -his resources. - -"How long _I_ should have paused before beating a retreat, if asked to -lead the way up such a place, I will not stop to enquire, but I clearly -remember that my efforts to form some estimate of the probable demand on -my powers such a feat would involve were cut short by Mummery's quiet -announcement that he was ready to make the attempt. Let me here state -that amongst Mummery's other mountaineering qualifications not the least -remarkable is his power of inspiring confidence in those who are -climbing with him, and that both Slingsby and I experienced this is -proved by the fact that we at once proceeded, without misgiving or -hesitation, to follow his lead. We had hitherto used an 80-feet rope, -but now, by attaching a spare 100-feet length of thin rope, used double, -we afforded the leader an additional 50 feet. Mummery commenced -cutting, and we soon approached the lower portion of the actual ice -wall, where the angle of the slope cannot have been less than 60. - -"I am not aware that any authority has fixed the exact degree of -steepness at which it becomes impossible to use the ice axe with both -hands, but, whatever portion of a right angle the limit may be, Mummery -very soon reached it, and commenced excavating with his right hand caves -in the ice, each with an internal lateral recess by which to support his -weight with his left. Slingsby and I, meanwhile possessing our souls in -patience, stood in our respective steps, as on a ladder, and watched his -steady progress with admiration, so far as permitted us by the falling -ice dislodged by the axe. - -"Above our heads the top of the wall was crowned by a single projecting -stone towards which the leader cut, and which, when reached, just -afforded sufficient standing-room for both feet. The ice immediately -below this stone, for a height of 12 or 14 feet, was practically -perpendicular, and Slingsby's definition of it as a 'frozen waterfall' -is the most appropriate I can find. Here and there Mummery found it -necessary to cut through its entire thickness, exposing the face of the -rock behind. - -"On reaching the projecting stone the leader was again able to use the -axe with both hands, and slowly disappeared from view; thus completing, -without pause or hitch of any kind, the most extraordinary feat of -mountaineering skill and nerve it has ever been my privilege to witness. - -"The top of the wall surmounted, Slingsby and I expected every moment to -hear the welcome summons to follow to easier realms above. None came. -Time passed, the only sounds besides the occasional drip of water from -the rocks on our left, or the growl of a distant avalanche, being that -of the axe and the falling chips of ice, as they whizzed by or struck -our heads or arms with increasing force. The sounds of the axe strokes -gradually became inaudible, but the shower continued to pound us without -mercy for more than an hour of inaction, perhaps more trying to the -nerves, in such a position, than the task of leading. The monotony was -to some extent varied by efforts to ward off from our heads the blows of -the falling ice, and by the excitement, at intervals, of seeing the -slack rope hauled up a foot or so at a time. It had almost become taut, -and we were preparing to follow, when a shout from above, which sounded -from where we stood muffled and far away, for more rope, kept us in our -places. It was all very well to demand more rope, but not so easy to -comply. The only possible way to give extra length was to employ the 100 -feet of thin rope single, instead of double, at which we hesitated at -first, but, as Mummery shouted that it was absolutely necessary, we -managed to make the change, though it involved Slingsby's getting out of -the rope entirely during the operation. To any one who has not tried it -I should hardly venture to recommend, as an enjoyable diversion, the -process, which must necessarily occupy both hands, of removing and -re-adjusting 180 feet of rope on an ice slope exceeding 60 at the top -of a steep couloir some 1000 feet high. The task accomplished, we had -not much longer to wait before the shout to come on announced the -termination of our martyrdom. We went on, but, on passing in turn the -projecting stone, and catching sight of the slope above, we saw at a -glance that our hopes of easy going must, for the present, be postponed. -Mummery, who had halted at the full extent of his tether of about 120 -feet of rope, was standing in his steps on an ice slope quite as steep -as that below the foot of the wall we had just surmounted. He had been -cutting without intermission for two hours, and suggested a change. -Being last on the rope, I therefore went ahead, cutting steps to pass, -and took up the work with the axe. The ice here was occasionally in -double layer, the outer one some 3 or 4 inches in thickness, which, when -cut through, revealed a space of about equal depth behind, an -arrangement at times very convenient, as affording good hand-holes -without extra labour. I went on for some time cutting pigeon-holes on -the right side of the couloir, and, at the risk of being unorthodox, I -would venture to point out what appears to me the advantages of this -kind of step on very steep ice. Cut in two perpendicular rows, -alternately for each foot, the time lost in zigzags is saved, and no -turning steps are necessary; they do not require the ice to be cut away -so much for the leg as in the case of lateral steps, and are therefore -less easily filled up by falling chips and snow. Being on account of -their shape more protected from the sun's heat, they are less liable to -be spoiled by melting, and have the further advantage of keeping the -members of the party in the same perpendicular line, and consequently in -a safer position. They also may serve as hand-holds. To cut such steps -satisfactorily it is necessary that the axe be provided with a point -long enough to penetrate to the full depth required for the -accommodation of the foot up to the instep, without risk of injury to -the shaft by repeated contact with the ice. - -"As we had now been going for several hours without food, and since -leaving the rock rib, where we had breakfasted, had come across no ledge -or irregularity of any kind affording a resting-place, it was with no -little satisfaction that I descried, on the opposite side of the -couloir, at a spot about 30 or 40 feet above, where the cliff on our -left somewhat receded, several broken fragments of rock cropping out of -the ice, of size and shape to provide seats for the whole party. We cut -up and across to them, and sat down, or rather hooked ourselves on, for -a second breakfast. We were here approximately on a level with the -summit of our rock buttress of the 11th, and saw that it was only -connected with the mountain by a broken and dangerous-looking ridge of -ice and _nv_ running up to an ice-slope at the foot of the glacier -cliffs. The gap in the latter was not visible from our position. The -tower we had tried to turn appeared far below, and the intervening rocks -of the buttress, though not jagged, were steep and smooth like a roof. -The first gleams of sunshine now arrived to cheer us, and, getting under -way once more, we pushed on hopefully, as the couloir was rapidly -widening and the face of the mountain almost in full view. We had also -surmounted the rock wall which had so long shut out the prospect on our -left, and it was at this point that, happening to glance across the -slabs, we caught sight of a large flat rock rapidly descending. It did -not bound nor roll, but slid quietly down with a kind of stealthy haste, -as if it thought, though rather late, it might still catch us, and was -anxious not to alarm us prematurely. It fell harmlessly into the -couloir, striking the ice near the rock rib within a few feet of our -tracks, and we saw no other falling stones while we were on the -mountain. - -"Leaving the welcome resting-place, Mummery again took the lead, and cut -up and across the couloir, now becoming less steep, to a rib or patch of -rocks higher up on the right, which we climbed to its upper extremity, a -distance of some 70 or 80 feet. - -"Here, taking to the ice once more, we soon approached the foot of the -first great snow-slope on the face, and rejoiced in the near prospect of -easier going. At the top of this slope, several hundred feet straight -before us, was a low cliff or band of rocks, for which we decided to -aim, there being throughout the entire length of the intervening slope -no suspicious grey patches to indicate ice. The angle was, moreover, -much less severe, and it being once more my turn to lead, I went at it -with the zealous intention of making up time. My ardour was, however, -considerably checked at finding, when but a short distance up the slope, -that the coating of _nv_ was so exceedingly thin as to be insufficient -for good footing without cutting through the hard ice below. Instead, -therefore, of continuing in a straight line for the rocks, we took an -oblique course to the right, towards one of the hanging glaciers before -referred to, and crossing a longitudinal crevasse, climbed without much -difficulty up its sloping bank of _nv_. Hurrah! here was good snow at -last, only requiring at most a couple of slashes with the adze end of -the axe for each step. If this continued we had a comparatively easy -task before us, as the rocks above, though smooth and steep, were broken -up here and there by bands and streaks of snow. Taking full advantage of -this our first opportunity for making speed, we cut as fast as possible -and made height rapidly. We still aimed to strike the band of rocks -before described, though at a point much more to the right, and nearer -to where its extremity was bounded by the ice-cliffs of another hanging -glacier; but, alas! as we approached nearer and nearer to the base of -the cliffs, looming apparently higher and higher over our heads, the -favouring _nv_, over which we had been making such rapid progress, -again began to fail, and before we could reach the top of the once more -steepening slope the necessity of again resorting to the pick end of the -axe brought home the unwelcome conviction that our temporary respite had -come to an end, and that, instead of snow above, and apart from what -help the smooth rocks might afford, nothing was to be expected but hard, -unmitigated ice. - -"We immediately felt that, as it was already past noon, the -establishment of this fact would put a totally different complexion on -our prospects of success, and, instead of reaching the summit, we might -have to content ourselves with merely crossing the ridge. We continued -cutting, however, and reached the rocks, the last part of the slope -having once more become exceedingly steep. To turn the cliff, here -unclimbable, we first spent over half an hour in prospecting to the -right, where a steep ice-gully appeared between the rocks and the -hanging glacier; but, abandoning this, we struck off to the left, -cutting a long traverse, during which we were able to hitch the rope to -rocks cropping out through the ice. The traverse landed us in a kind of -gully, where, taking to the rocks whenever practicable, though climbing -chiefly by the ice, we reached a broken stony ledge, large and flat -enough to serve as a luncheon place, the only spot we had come across -since leaving the rock rib, where it was possible really to rest -sitting. Luncheon over, we proceeded as before, choosing the rocks as -far as possible by way of change, though continually obliged to take to -the ice-streaks by which they were everywhere intersected. This went on -all the rest of the afternoon, till, when daylight began to wane, we had -attained an elevation considerably above the gap between our mountain -and the Aiguille de Blaitire, or more than 10,900 feet above the sea. - -"The persistent steepness and difficulty of the mountain had already put -our reaching the ridge before dark entirely out of the question, though -we decided to keep going as long as daylight lasted, so as to leave as -little work as possible for the morrow. - -"The day had been gloriously fine, practically cloudless throughout, and -I shall never forget the weird look of the ice-slopes beneath, turning -yellow in the evening light, and plunging down and disappearing far -below in the mists which were gathering at the base of the mountain; -also, far, far away, we caught a glimpse of the Lake of Geneva, -somewhere near Lausanne. I had turned away from the retrospect, when an -exclamation from Slingsby called me to look once more. A gap had -appeared in the mists, and there, some 2700 feet below us, as it were on -an inferior stage of the world, we caught a glimpse of the snow-field at -the very foot of the mountain, dusky yellow in the last rays of the sun. -Mummery was in the meantime continuing the everlasting chopping, in the -intervals of crawling up disobliging slabs of rock, till twilight began -to deepen into darkness, and we had to look about for a perch on which -to roost for the night. The only spot we could find, sufficiently large -for all three of us to sit, was a small patch of lumps of rocks, more or -less loose, some 20 or 30 feet below where we stood, and we succeeded, -just as the light failed, or about 8.30 P.M., and after some -engineering, in seating ourselves side by side upon it. Our boots were -wet through by long standing in ice-steps, and we took them off and -wrung the water out of our stockings. The others put theirs on again, -but, as a precaution against frost-bite, having pocketed my stockings, I -put my feet, wrapped in a woollen cap, inside the rucksack, with the -result that they remained warm through the night. The half hour which it -took me next morning to pull on the frozen boots proved, however, an -adequate price for the privilege of having warm feet. As a precaution -against falling off our shelf we hitched the rope over a rock above and -passed it round us, and to make sure of not losing my boots (awful -thought!), I tied them to it by the laces. - -"After dinner we settled down to spend the evening. The weather -fortunately remained perfect, and the moon had risen, though hidden from -us by our mountain. Immediately below lay Chamonix, like a cheap -illumination, gradually growing more patchy as the night advanced and -the candles went out one by one, while above the stars looked down as -if silently wondering why in the world we were sitting there. The first -two hours were passed without very much discomfort, but having left -behind our extra wraps to save weight, as time wore on the cold began to -make itself felt, and though fortunately never severe enough to be -dangerous, made us sufficiently miserable. Packed as we were, we were -unable to indulge in those exercises generally adopted to induce warmth, -and we shivered so vigorously at intervals that, when all vibrating in -unison, we wondered how it might affect the stability of our perch. -Sudden cramp in a leg, too, could only be relieved by concerted action, -it being necessary for the whole party to rise solemnly together like a -bench of judges, while the limb was stretched out over the valley of -Chamonix till the pain abated, and it could be folded up and packed away -once more. We sang songs, told anecdotes, and watched the ghostly effect -of the moonlight on a subsidiary pinnacle of the mountain, the -illuminated point of which, in reality but a short distance away, looked -like a phantom Matterhorn seen afar off over an inky black _arte_ -formed by the shadow thrown across its base by the adjoining ridge. We -had all solemnly vowed not to drop asleep, and for me this was -essential, as my centre of gravity was only just within the base of -support; but while endeavouring to give effect to another chorus, in -spite of the very troublesome _vibrato_ before referred to, I was -grieved and startled at the sudden superfluous interpolation of two -sustained melancholy bass notes, each in a different key and ominously -suggestive of snoring. The pensive attitude of my companions' heads -being in keeping with their song, in accordance with a previous -understanding, I imparted to Mummery, who sat next to me, a judicious -shock, but, as in the case of a row of billiard balls in contact, the -effect was most noticeable at the far end, and _Slingsby_ awoke, -heartily agreeing with me how weak it was of Mummery to give way thus. -The frequent necessity for repeating this operation, with strengthening -variations as the effect wore off, soon stopped the chorus which, like -Sullivan's 'Lost Chord,' trembled away into silence. - -"The lights of Chamonix had by this time shrunk to a mere moth-eaten -skeleton of their earlier glory, and I became weakly conscious of a sort -of resentment at the callous selfishness of those who could thus sneak -into their undeserved beds, without a thought of the three devoted -explorers gazing down at them from their eyrie on the icy rocks. - -"From 2 to 4 o'clock the cold became more intense, aggravated by a -slight 'breeze of morning,' and while waiting for dawn we noticed that -it was light enough to see. - -"Daylight, however, did not help Mummery to find his hat, and we -concluded it had retired into the _bergschrund_ under cover of darkness. - -"We helped each other into a standing position, and decided to start for -the next patch of rocks above, from there to determine what chance of -success there might be in making a dash for the summit, or, failing -this, of simply crossing the ridge and descending to the Col du Gant. -There was very little food left, and, as we had brought no wine, -breakfast was reduced to a slight sketch, executed with little taste and -in a few very dry touches. Owing to the time required to disentangle -virulently kinked and frozen ropes, etc., the sun was well above the -horizon when we once more started upwards, though unfortunately, just at -this time, when his life-giving rays would have been most acceptable, -they were entirely intercepted by the ridge of the Blaitire. We started -on the line of steps cut the night before, but soon after Mummery had -recommenced cutting, the cold, or rather the impossibility, owing to the -enforced inaction, to get warm, produced such an overpowering feeling of -drowsiness that Slingsby and I, at Mummery's suggestion, returned to the -perch, and jamming ourselves into the space which had before -accommodated our six legs, endeavoured to have it out in forty winks. -Mummery meanwhile continued step-cutting, and at the end of about half -an hour, during which Slingsby and I were somewhat restored by a fitful -dose, returned, and we tied on again for another attempt. - -"Surmounting the patches of rock immediately above our dormitory, we -arrived at the foot of another slope of terribly steep, hard ice, some -200 feet in height. At the top of this again was a vertical crag 14 or -15 feet high, forming the outworks of the next superior band of rocks, -which was interspersed with ice-streaks as before. A few feet from the -base of this crag was a narrow ledge about 1 foot in width, where we -were able to sit after scraping it clear of snow. Slingsby gave Mummery -a leg up round a very nasty corner, and he climbed to a point above the -crag, whence he was able to assist us with the rope up a still higher -and narrower ledge. Beyond was another steep slope of hard ice, topped -by a belt of rocks, as before. - -"Before reaching this point the cold had again begun to tell upon me, -and I bitterly regretted the mistaken policy of leaving behind our extra -wraps, especially as the coat I was wearing was not lined. As there was -no probability of a change for the better in the nature of the going -before the ridge was reached, I began to doubt the wisdom of proceeding, -affected as I was, where a false step might send the whole party into -the _bergschrund_ 3000 feet below; but it was very hard, with the summit -in view and the most laborious part of the ascent already accomplished, -to be the first to cry 'Hold!' I hesitated for some time before doing -so, and the others meanwhile had proceeded up the slope. The rope was -almost taut when I shouted to them the state of the case, and called a -council of war. They returned to me, and we discussed what was -practically something of the nature of a dilemma. To go on at the same -slow rate of progress and without the sun's warmth meant, on the one -hand, the possible collapse of at least one of the party from cold, -while, on the other hand, to turn back involved the descent of nearly -3000 feet of ice, and the passage, if we could not turn it, of the -couloir and its ghastly ice-wall. Partly, I think, to delay for a time -the adoption of the latter formidable alternative, partly to set at rest -any doubt which might still remain as to the nature of the going above, -Mummery volunteered to ascend alone to the rocks at the summit of the -ice-slope, though the chance of their offering any improved conditions -was generally felt to be a forlorn hope. He untied the rope, threw the -end down to us, and retraced his steps up the slope, in due time -reaching the rocks some 100 or 130 feet above, but, after prospecting in -more than one direction, returned to us with the report that they -offered no improvement, and that the intersecting streaks were nothing -but hard ice. He, however, was prepared to continue the attempt if we -felt equal to the task. If we could at that moment have commanded a cup -of hot soup or tea, or the woollen jackets which in our confidence in -being able to reach the ridge we had left behind, I am convinced I -should have been quite able to proceed, and that the day and the -mountain would have been ours; but in the absence of these reviving -influences and that of the sun, I was conscious that in my own case, at -any rate, it would be folly to persist, so gave my vote for descending. -As the food was practically exhausted, the others agreed that it would -be wiser to face the terrible ordeal which retracing our steps involved -(we did not then know that it meant recutting them), rather than -continue the ascent with weakened resources and without absolute -certainty of the accessibility of the summit ridge. - -"As Slingsby on the previous day had insisted on being regarded merely -as a passenger, and had therefore not shared in the step-cutting, it was -now arranged that he should lead, while Mummery, as a tower of strength, -brought up the rear. Though it was past five o'clock, and of course -broad daylight, a bright star could be seen just over the ridge of our -mountain, not far from the summit--alas! the only one anywhere near it -on that day. We started downwards at a steady pace, and soon were -rejoicing in the returning warmth induced by the more continuous -movement. Before we had gone far, however, we found that most of the -steps were partially filled up with ice, water having flowed into them -during the previous afternoon, and the work of trimming or practically -recutting these was at times exceedingly trying, owing to their distance -apart, and the consequent necessity of working in a stooping and cramped -position. - -"But if the work was tough the worker, fortunately, was tougher still, -and Mummery and I congratulated ourselves on being able to send such -powerful reserves to the front. - -"The morning was well advanced before the sun surmounted the cold screen -of the Blaitire, but having once got to work he certainly made up by -intensity for his tardy appearance. - -"The provisions, with the exception of a scrap or two of cheese and a -morsel of chocolate, being exhausted, and having, as before stated, -nothing with us in the form of drink, nothing was to be gained by a -halt, though, as we descended with as much speed as possible, we kept a -sharp look-out for any signs of trickling water with which to quench the -thirst, which was becoming distressing. - -"Since finally deciding to return, we had cherished the hope that it -might still be possible to turn the ice-wall by way of the great rock -buttress, and made up our minds at any rate to inspect it from above. -With this in view, when the point was reached where we had on the -previous day struck the flank of the hanging glacier instead of -continuing in the tracks which trended to the right across the long -ice-slope, we cut straight down by the side of the glacier to its foot, -and over the slope below, in the direction of the _sracs_ immediately -crowning the summit of the buttress. - -"On nearer approach, however, it was manifest that even if by hours of -step-cutting a passage from the ice to the rocky crest below could be -successfully forced, descent by the latter was more than doubtful, while -the consequences of failure were not to be thought of. - -"Driven, therefore, finally to descend by the couloir, we cut a -horizontal traverse which brought us back into the old tracks, a short -way above the point where the ice began to steepen for the final plunge, -where we braced ourselves for the last and steepest 1000 feet of ice. -Slingsby still led, and, on arriving at the spot below our second -breakfast-place, where I had last cut pigeon-holes, joyfully announced -that one of them contained water. He left his drinking cup in an -adjoining step for our use as we passed the spot in turn, and the fact -that it was only visible when on a level with our faces may give some -idea of the steepness of the descent. The delight of that drink was -something to remember, though only obtainable in thimblefuls, and I -continued dipping so long that Mummery became alarmed, being under the -impression that the cup was filled each time. - -"Mummery had previously volunteered, in case we were driven to return by -the couloir, to descend first, and recut the steps and hand-holes in the -ice-wall, and as we approached the brink we looked about for some -projecting stone or knob of rock which might serve as a hitch for the -rope during the operation. The only available projection was a pointed -stone of doubtful security, somewhat removed from the line of descent, -standing out of the ice at the foot of a smooth vertical slab of rock on -the left. Round this we hitched the rope, Slingsby untying to give the -necessary length. With our feet firmly planted, each in its own -ice-step, we paid out the rope as Mummery descended and disappeared over -the edge. It was an hour before he re-appeared, and this period of -enforced inaction was to me, and I think to Slingsby, the most trying of -the whole expedition. The want of food was beginning to tell on our -strength, the overpowering drowsiness returned, and though it was -absolutely essential for the safety of the party to stand firmly in the -ice-steps, it required a strong effort to avoid dropping off to sleep in -that position. We were fortunately able to steady ourselves by grasping -the upper edge of the ice where it adjoined the rocky slab under which -we stood. This weariness, however, must have been quite as much mental -as physical from the long-continued monotony of the work, for when -Mummery at last reappeared we felt perfectly equal to the task of -descending. The rope was passed behind a boss of _nv_ ingeniously -worked by Mummery as a hitch to keep it perpendicular, and I descended -first, but had no occasion to rely upon it for more than its moral -support, as the steps and hand-holds had been so carefully cut. I -climbed cautiously down the icy cataract till I reached a point where -hand-holds were not essential to maintain the balance, and waited with -my face almost against the ice till Slingsby joined me. Mummery soon -followed, and rather than leave the spare rope behind detached it from -the stone and descended without its aid, his nerve being to all -appearance unimpaired by the fatigues he had gone through. I had before -had evidence of his indifference while on the mountains to all forms of -food or drink, with the single exception, by the way, of strawberry jam, -on the production of which he generally capitulates. - -"Rejoicing at having successfully passed the steepest portion of the -ice-wall without the smallest hitch of the wrong sort, we steadily -descended the face of the couloir. - -"Here and there, where a few of the steps had been hewn unusually far -apart, I was fain to cut a notch or two for the fingers before lowering -myself into the next one below. At last the rock rib was reached, and we -indulged in a rest for the first time since turning to descend. - -"Time, however, was precious, and we were soon under way again, -retracing our steps over the steep loose rocks at the base of the rib -till forced again on to the ice. - -"Oh, that everlasting hard ice-slope, so trustworthy yet so relentlessly -exacting! - -"Before we could clear the rocks, and as if by way of hint that the -mountain had had enough of us, and of me in particular (I could have -assured it the feeling was mutual), a flick of the rope sent my hat and -goggles flying down to keep company with Mummery's in the _bergschrund_, -and a sharp rolling stone, which I foolishly extended my hand to check, -gashed me so severely as to put climbing out of the question for more -than a week. As small pieces of ice had been whizzing down for some time -from above, though we saw no stones, it was satisfactory to find our -steps across the lower part of the couloir in sufficiently good order to -allow of our putting on a good pace, and we soon reached the sheltering -rock on the opposite side and the slopes below the _bergschrund_ wherein -our hats, after losing their heads, had found a grave. The intense -feeling of relief on regaining, at 5.55 P.M., safe and easy ground, -where the lives of the party were not staked on every step, is difficult -to describe, and was such as I had never before experienced. I think the -others felt something like the same sensation. Fatigue, kept at bay so -long as the stern necessity for caution lasted, seemed to come upon us -with a rush, though tempered with the sense of freedom from care -aforesaid, and I fancy our progress down the glacier snow was for a time -rather staggery. Though tired, we were by no means exhausted, and after -a short rest on a flat rock and a drink from a glacier runnel, found -ourselves sufficiently vigorous to make good use of the remaining -daylight to cross the intervening glaciers, moraines, and valley of -boulders, before commencing to skirt the tedious and, in the dark, -exasperating stony wastes of the Charmoz ridge. Sternly disregarding the -allurements of numerous stonemen, which here seem to grow wild, to the -confusion of those weak enough to trust them, we stumbled along amongst -the stones to the brow of the hill overlooking the hotel, where shouts -from friends greeted the appearance of our lantern, and, descending by -the footpath, we arrived among them at 10.30 P.M., more than fifty-four -hours after our departure on the 12th." - -[Illustration: ON A SNOW RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: MRS. AUBREY LE BLOND, 1903. By Royston Le Blond.] - -[Illustration: A HALT FOR LUNCH ABOVE THE SNOW LINE.] - -[Illustration: MRS. AUBREY LE BLOND. By Joseph Imboden. - -_To face_ p. 51.] - - - - -CHAPTER III - -SOME AVALANCHE ADVENTURES - - -We should never have got into such a position, but when definite orders -are not carried out the General must not be blamed. The adventure might -easily have cost all three of us our lives. - -This is how we came to be imperilling our necks on an incoherent -snow-ridge 13,000 feet above the sea. It was the end of September, and -my two guides and I were waiting at Zermatt to try the Dent Blanche, a -proceeding which, later on, was amply justified by success. Much fresh -snow had recently fallen, and the slopes of the mountains were running -down towards the valleys faster than the most active chamois could have -galloped up them. Idleness is an abomination to the keen climber, and -doubly so if he be an enthusiastic photographer, and the sun shone each -day from a cloudless sky. Something had to be done, but what could we -choose? All the safe second-class ascents up which one might wade -through fresh snow without risk, we had accomplished over and over -again. Something new to us was what we wanted, and what eventually we -found in the stately Hohberghorn. Now this peak is seldom ascended. It -is overtopped by two big neighbours, and until these have been done, no -one is likely to climb the less imposing peak. Furthermore, the -Hohberghorn is a grind, and though we got enough excitement and to spare -out of it, yet in our case the circumstances were peculiar. The view was -certain to be grand, and, _faute de mieux_, we decided to start for it. - -On this occasion, in addition to my guide of many years' standing, the -famous Joseph Imboden of St Nicholas, I had a second man, who had a -great local reputation in his native valley at the other end of -Switzerland (and deservedly so, as far as his actual climbing ability -was concerned), but who had never been on a rope with Imboden before. -This was the cause of the appalling risk we ran during our expedition. -We arrived in good time at the hut, and found another party, who -proposed going up the Dom, the highest mountain entirely in Switzerland -(14,900 feet) next day. Our way lay together for a couple of hours over -the great glacier, and we proceeded the following morning in magnificent -weather towards our respective peaks. - -It was heavy work ploughing our way through the soft new snow, and we -could not advance except very slowly. As a result, it was already -mid-day when we gained the ridge of the Hohberghorn, not far below the -summit. The sun streamed pitilessly down, the snow cracked and slipped -at every step. To understand what followed, our position must now be -made clear. Imboden, who led, was on the very crest of the ridge. Next -to him on the rope, at a distance of about 20 feet, was my place, also -on the ridge. At an equal distance behind me was the second guide. He -was a trifle below the ridge, on the side to our left. We stood still -for a moment, and then Imboden distinctly but very quietly remarked to -the other man, "Be on your guard. At any moment now we may expect an -avalanche." I never to this day can understand how he failed to grasp -what this meant. It should have been obvious that it was a warning to -look out, and at the first sign of approaching danger to step down on to -the other side of the ridge. Had not this been a perfectly simple thing -to do, we should not have continued the ascent, but the second guide -failed us hopelessly when the critical moment came. Imboden, to avoid a -small cornice or overhanging eave of snow to our right, now took a few -steps along and below the ridge to the left, while the man behind me -came in the tracks to the crest, and I followed the leader. From this -position the last man could in an instant have been down the slope to -his right, and have held us with the greatest ease. - -We advanced a yard or two further, and then the entire surface upon -which we stood commenced to move! A moment more and we were struggling -for our lives, dashing our axes through the rushing snow, and -endeavouring to arrest our wild career, which, unless checked at once, -would cause us to be precipitated down the entire face of the mountain, -to the glacier below. Then it was that the firm bed of snow beneath the -newer layer stood us in good stead. Our axes held, and, breathless, -bruised and startled, we found ourselves clinging to the slope, while -the avalanche, momentarily increasing in volume, thundered down towards -the snow-fields below, where at length, heaped high against the -mountain-side, it came to rest. - -We now took stock of the position. We were practically unhurt, but so -confused and rapid had been the slip that the rope was entangled round -us in a manner wonderful to behold. There was nothing to prevent us -reaching the summit, for every atom of fresh snow had been swept away -from the slope, so we continued our climb, and soon were able to rest on -the top. To this day, Imboden and I always look back to our adventure -on the Hohberghorn as the greatest peril either of us has ever faced. - -More than one instance has been recorded where, owing to the prompt -action of the last man on the rope, fatal accidents on snow-ridges have -been avoided. The two most famous occasions in Alpine annals[2] were -when Hans Grass saved his party on Piz Pal, and when Ulrich Almer -performed his marvellous feat on the Gabelhorn. It is true that in both -these cases the risk was due to the breaking away of a snow-cornice, but -the remedy was exactly the same as it ought to have been when our -avalanche was started. - -I have only to add that we found the other party at the hut, much -exhausted by their unsuccessful attempt on the Dom, and very anxious on -our account, as they both heard and saw the avalanche which had so -nearly ended our mountaineering career. - -The famous climber, Mr Tuckett, has very kindly allowed me to quote from -_Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers_, the following description of a narrow -escape from an avalanche while descending the Aletschhorn: - -"We had accomplished in safety a distance of scarcely more than 150 -yards when, as I was looking at the Jungfrau, my attention was -attracted by a sudden exclamation from Victor, who appeared to stagger -and all but lose his balance. At first, the idea of some sort of seizure -or an attack of giddiness presented itself, but, without stopping to -enquire, I at once turned round, drove my good 8-foot ash-pole as deeply -as possible through the surface layer of fresh snow into the firmer -stratum beneath, tightened the rope to give Victor support, and shouted -to Peter to do the same. All this was the work of an instant, and a -glance at once showed me what had happened. Victor was safe for the -moment, but a layer or _couche_ of snow, 10 inches to a foot in -thickness, had given way exactly beneath his feet, and first gently, and -then fleet as an arrow, went gliding down, with that unpleasant sound -somewhat resembling the escape of steam, which is so trying to the -nerves of the bravest man, when he knows its full and true significance. -At first a mass 80 to 100 yards in breadth and 10 or 15 in length alone -gave way, but the contagion spread, and ere another minute had elapsed -the slopes right and left of us for an extent of at least half a mile, -were in movement, and, like a frozen Niagara, went crashing down the -ice-precipices and _sracs_ that still lay between us and the Aletsch -glacier, 1800 to 2000 feet below. The spectacle was indescribably -sublime, and the suspense for a moment rather awful, as we were -clinging to an incline at least as steep as that on the Grindelwald side -of the Strahleck--to name a familiar example--and it was questionable -whether escape would be possible, if the layer of snow on the portion of -the slope we had just been traversing should give way before we could -retrace our steps. - -"Not a moment was to be lost; no word was spoken after the first -exclamation, and hastily uttered, 'Au col! et vite!' and then in dead -silence, with _btons_ held aloft like harpoons, ready to be plunged -into the lower and older layers of snow, we stole quietly but rapidly up -towards the now friendly-looking _corniche_, and in a few minutes stood -once more in safety on the ridge, with feelings of gratitude for our -great deliverance, which, though they did not find utterance in words, -were, I believe, none the less sincerely felt by all of us. 'Il n'a -manqu que peu un grand malheur,' quietly remarked Victor, who looked -exhausted, as well he might be after what he had gone through; but a -_goutte_ of cognac all round soon set us right again, and shouting to -Bennen, who was still in sight, though dwindled in size to a mere point, -we were soon beside him, running down the _nv_ of our old friend, the -Aren Glacier. The snow was now soft and the heat tremendous, and both -Bennen and Bohren showed signs of fatigue; but a rapid pace was still -maintained in spite of the frequent crevasses. Some were cleared in a -series of flying leaps, whilst into others which the snow concealed, one -and another would occasionally sink, amid shouts of laughter from his -companions, who, in their turn, underwent a similar fate. To the -carefully secured rope, which, with the alpenstock and ice axe, are the -mountaineer's best friends, we owed it that these sudden immersions were -a mere matter of joke; but even the sense of security which it confers -does not altogether prevent a 'creepy' sensation from being experienced, -as the legs dangle in vacancy, and the sharp metallic ring of the icy -fragments is heard as they clatter down into the dark blue depths -below." - -The higher and more snow-laden the mountain chain, the more risk is -there from avalanches. It seems practically certain that Mr Mummery met -his death in the Himalayas from an avalanche, and that Messrs Donkin and -Fox and their two Swiss guides perished in the Caucasus from a like -cause. Sir W. Martin Conway, in his book on the Himalayas, makes several -allusions to avalanches, and on at least one occasion, some members of -his party had a narrow escape. He relates the adventure as follows: - -[Illustration: A cutting through an immense avalanche which fell some -months previously.] - -[Illustration: The remains of a large avalanche.] - -[Illustration: An avalanche of stones.] - -[Illustration: A mountain chapel near Zermatt where special prayers are -offered for defence against avalanche. - -_To face_ p. 59.] - -"Zurbriggen and I had no more than set foot upon the grass, when we -beheld a huge avalanche-cloud descending over the whole width of the -ice-fall, utterly enveloping both it and a small rock-rib and couloir -beside it. Bruce and the Gurkhas were below the rib, and could only see -up the couloir. They thought the avalanche was a small one confined to -it, and so they turned back and ran towards the foot of the ice-fall. -This was no improvement in position, and there was nothing for them to -do then but to run straight away from it, and get as far out to the flat -glacier as they could. The fall started from the very top of the Lower -Burchi peak, and tumbled on to the plateau above the ice-fall; it flowed -over this, and came down the ice-fall itself. We saw the cloud before we -heard the noise, and then it only reached us as a distant rumble. We had -no means of guessing the amount of solid snow and ice that there might -be in the heart of the cloud. The rumble increased in loudness, and was -soon a thunder that swallowed up our puny shouts, so that Bruce could -not hear our warning. Had he heard he could easily have reached the -sheltered position we gained before the cloud came on him. Zurbriggen -and I cast ourselves upon our faces, but only the edge of the cloud and -an ordinary strong wind reached us. Our companions were entirely -enveloped in it. They afterwards described to us how they raced away -like wild men, jumping crevasses which they could not have cleared in -cold blood. When the snow just enveloped them, the wind raised by it -cast them headlong on the ice. This, however, was the worst that -happened. The snow peppered them all over, and soaked them to the skin, -but the solid part of the avalanche was happily arrested in the midst of -the ice-fall, and never came in sight. When the fog cleared they were -all so out of breath that for some minutes they could only stand and -regard one another in panting silence. They presently rejoined us, and -we halted for a time on the pleasant grass." - -In the olden days, before the great Alpine lines had tunnelled beneath -the mountains and made a journey from one side of the range to the other -in midwinter as safe and as comfortable as a run from London to -Brighton, passengers obliged to cross the Alps in winter or spring were -exposed to very real peril from avalanches. Messrs Newnes have -courteously allowed me to make a short extract from an article which -appeared in one of their publications, and in which is described the -adventures of two English ladies who were obliged to return home -suddenly from Innsbruck on account of the illness of a near relative. -Their shortest route was by _diligence_ to Constance, over the Arlberg -Pass, and although it was considered extremely dangerous at that time of -year--the beginning of May 1880--they resolved to make the attempt. Much -anxiety with regard to avalanches was felt in neighbouring villages, as -the sun had lately been very hot, and the snow had become rotten and -undermined. Owing to heavy falls during the previous winter, the -accumulation of snow was enormous, and thus the two travellers set out -under the worst possible auspices. The conductor of the _diligence_ -warned them of the danger, and told them on no account to open a window -or to make any movement which could shake the coach. He got in with them -and sat opposite, looking very worried and anxious. They reached the -critical part of their journey, and, to quote Mrs Brewer's words: - -"Suddenly a low, booming sound, like that of a cannon on a battlefield -or a tremendous peal of thunder, broke on our ears, swelling into a -deafening crash; and in a moment we were buried in a vast mass of snow. -One of the immense piles from the mountain above had crashed down upon -us, carrying everything with it. At the same moment we felt a violent -jerk of the coach, and heard a kind of sound which expressed terror; -but, happily, our vehicle did not turn over, as it seemed likely to do -for a minute or so. There we sat--for how long I know not--scarcely -able to breathe, the snow pressing heavily against the windows, and -utterly blocking out light and air, so that breathing was a painful -effort. And now came a curious sensation. It was an utter suspension of -thought, and of every mental and physical faculty. - -"True, in a sort of unconscious way I became aware that the guard was -sobbing out a prayer for his wife and children; but it had not the -slightest effect on me. - -"We might have been buried days and nights for all I knew, for I kept no -count of time. In reality, I believe it was but a couple of hours -between the fall of the avalanche and the first moment of hope, which -came in the form of men striking with pickaxes. The sound seemed to come -from a long distance--almost, as it were, from another world. - -"The guard, roused by the noise, said earnestly: 'Ach Gott! I thank -Thee.' And then, speaking to us, he said: 'Ladies, help is near!' - -"Gradually the sound of the digging and the voices of the men grew -nearer, till at length one window was open--the one overlooking the -valley; and the life-giving air stole softly in upon us. Even now, -however, we were told not to move; not that we had any inclination to do -so, for we were in a dazed, half-conscious condition. When at length we -used our eyes, it was to note that the valley did not seem so deep, and -that the villages with their church spires had disappeared; the meaning -of it was not far to seek. - -"We were both good German scholars, and knew several of the dialects, so -that we were able to learn a good deal of what had happened by listening -to the men's talk. The school inspector in his terror had lost all -self-control, and forgetful of the warnings given him, threw himself off -the seat and leaped into space, thereby endangering the safety of all. -He mercifully fell into one of the clumps of trees some distance down -the slope, and so escaped without very much damage to himself, except -shock to the system and bruises. The poor horses, however, fared -infinitely worse. The weight of the snow lifted the rings from the hooks -on the carriage, and at the same time carried the poor brutes down with -it into the valley--never again to do a day's work. - -"The difficulties still before us were very serious. We could neither go -backward nor forward, and there was danger of more avalanches falling. -The next posting village was still far ahead, and there was no chance of -our advancing a step until the brave body of men could cut a way through -or make a clearance, and even then time would be required to bring back -horses." - -The ladies were at last extricated from their still dangerous position, -and amid a scene of the greatest excitement, arrived at a little -Tyrolese village. The people could not do enough to welcome them, and -every kindness was shown to them. Thus ended a wonderfully narrow escape -for all who were concerned in the adventure. - -[Illustration: A mountain path.] - -[Illustration: A village completely buried beneath an avalanche.] - -[Illustration: Peasants of the mountains.] - -[Illustration: Terraces cut on the hill sides and planted with trees to -prevent the fall of avalanches. - -_To face_ p. 65.] - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE - - -One of the treasures of collectors of Alpine books is a small volume in -Italian by Ignazio Somis. The British Museum has not only a copy of the -original, but also a couple of translations, from one of which, -published in 1768, I take the following account. I have left the quaint -old spelling and punctuation just as they were; they accentuate the -vividness and evident truth of this "True and Particular Account of the -most Surprising preservation and happy deliverance of three women," who -were buried for a month under an avalanche. The occurrence was fully -investigated by Ignazio Somis, who visited the village of Bergemoletto, -and obtained his narrative from the lips of one of the survivors. - -"In the month of February and March of the year 1755, we had in Turin, a -great fall of rain, the sky having been almost constantly overcast from -the ninth of February till the twenty-fourth of March. During this -interval, it rained almost every day, but snowed only on the morning of -the twenty-first of February, when the liquor of Reaumur's thermometer -stood but one degree above the freezing point. Now, as it often snows in -the mountains, when it only rains in the plain; it cannot appear -surprising that during this interval, there fell vast quantities of snow -in the mountains that surround us, and in course, several valancas[3] -were formed. In fact, there happened so many in different places on the -side of Aosta, Lanzo, Susa, Savoy, and the county of Nice, that by the -end of March, no less than two hundred persons had the misfortune of -losing their lives by them. Of these overwhelmed by these valancas, -three persons, however, Mary Anne Roccia Bruno, Anne Roccia, and -Margaret Roccia, had reason to think themselves in other respects, -extremely happy, having been dug alive on the twenty-fifth of April, out -of a stable, under the ruins of which, they had been buried, the -nineteenth of March, about nine in the morning, by a valanca of snow, -forty-two feet higher than the roof, to the incredible surprise of all -those who saw them, and afterwards heard them relate how they lived all -this while, with death, as we may say, continually staring them in the -face. - -"The road from Demonte to the higher valley of Stura, runs amidst many -mountains, which, joining one another, and sometimes rising to a great -height, form a part of those Alps, by historians and geographers, called -maritime Alps, separating the valley of Stura and Piedmont, from -Dauphiny and the county of Nice. Towards the middle of the road leading -to the top of these mountains, and on the left of the river Stura, we -meet with a village called Bergemolo, passing through which village, and -still keeping the road through the said valley, we, at about a mile -distance, arrive at a little hamlet called Bergemoletto, containing -about one hundred and fifty souls. From this place there run two narrow -lanes, both to the right and left, one less steep and fatiguing than the -other, and in some measure along two valleys, to the mountains. The -summit of the mountain makes the horizon an angle much greater than 45, -and so much greater in some places, as to be in a manner perpendicular, -so that it is a very difficult matter to climb it, even by a winding -path. Now it was from the summit of the aforesaid mountains that fell -the valancas of snow, which did so much mischief, and almost entirely -destroyed the hamlet of Bergemoletto. - -"The bad weather which prevailed in so many other places, prevailed -likewise in the Foresta of Bergemoletto. By this word Foresta, the -Alpineers understand the villages dispersed over the vallies covered -with small trees and bushes, and surrounded with high mountains; for it -began to snow early in March, and the fall increased so much on the 16, -17, 18 and 19, that many of the inhabitants began to apprehend, and not -without reason, that the weight of that which was already fallen, and -still continued to fall, might crush their houses, built with stones -peculiar to the country, cemented by nothing but mud, and a very small -portion of lime, and covered with thatch laid on a roof of shingles and -large thin stones, supported by thick beams. They, therefore, got upon -their roofs to lighten them of the snow. At a little distance from the -church, stood the house of Joseph Roccia, a man of about fifty, husband -of Mary Anne, born in Demonte, of the family of Bruno; who, with his son -James, a lad of fifteen, had, like his neighbours, got upon the roof of -his house on the 19th in the morning in order to lessen the weight on -it, and thereby prevent its destruction. In the meantime the clergyman -who lived in the neighbourhood, and was about leaving home, in order to -repair to the church, and gather his people together to hear mass; -perceiving a noise towards the top of the mountains, and turning his -trembling eyes towards the quarter from whence he thought it came, -discovered two valancas driving headlong towards the village. Wherefore -raising his voice he gave Joseph notice, instantly to come down from -the roof, to avoid the impending danger, and then immediately retreated -himself into his own house. - -"These two valancas met and united, so as to form but one valanca which -continued to descend towards the valley, where, on account of the -increase of its bulk, the diminution of its velocity and the insensible -declivity of the plane it stopped and arrested by the neighbouring -mountain, though it covered a large tract of land, did no damage either -to the houses or the inhabitants. Joseph Roccia, who had formerly -observed that the fall of one valanca was often attended with that of -others, immediately came off the roof at the priest's notice, and with -his son fled as hard as he could towards the church, without well -knowing, however, which way he went; as is usually the case with the -Alpineers, when they guess by the report in the air, that some valanca -is falling or seeing it fall with their own eyes. The poor man had -scarce advanced forty steps, when hearing his son fall just at his -heels, he turned about to assist him, and taking him up, saw the spot on -which his house, his stable, and those of some of his neighbours stood, -converted into a huge heap of snow, without the least sign of either -walls or roofs. Such was his agony at this sight, and at the thoughts -of having lost in an instant, his wife, his sister, his family, and all -the little he had saved, with many years increasing labour and economy, -that hale and hearty, as he was, he immediately, as if heaven and earth -were come together, lost his senses, swooned away, and tumbled upon the -snow. His son now helped him, and he came to himself little by little; -till at last, by leaning upon him, he found himself in a condition to -get on the valanca, and, in order to re-establish his health there, set -out for the house of his friend, Spirito Roccia, about one hundred feet -distant from the spot, where he fell. Mary Anne, his wife, who was -standing with her sister-in-law Anne, her daughter Margaret, and her son -Anthony, a little boy two years old, at the door of the stable, looking -at the people throwing the snow from off the houses, and waiting for the -ringing of the bell that was to call them to prayers, was about taking a -turn to the house, in order to light a fire, and air a shirt for her -husband, who could not but want that refreshment after his hard labour. -But before she could set out, she heard the priest cry out to them to -come down quickly, and raising her trembling eyes, saw the foresaid -valancas set off, and roll down the side of the mountain, and at the -same instant heard a horrible report from another quarter, which made -her retreat back quickly with her family, and shut the door of the -stable. Happy it was for her, that she had time to do so; this noise -being occasioned by another immense valanca, the whole cause of all the -misery and distress, she had to suffer for so long a time. And it was -this very valanca, over which Joseph, her husband was obliged to pass -after his fit, in his way to the house of Spirito Roccia. - -"Some minutes after the fall of the valanca another huge one broke off -driving along the valley and beat down the houses which it met in its -course. This valanca increased greatly, by the snow over which it -passed, in its headlong course, and soon reached with so much -impetuosity, the first fallen valanca, it carried away great part of it; -then returning back with this reinforcement, it demolished the houses, -stopping in the valley which it had already overwhelmed in its first -progress. So that the height of the snow, Paris measure, amounted to -more than seventy-seven feet; the length of it to more than four hundred -and twenty-seven and the breadth above ninety-four. Some people affirm -that the concussion of the air occasioned by this valanca, was so great, -that it was heard at Bergemolo, and even burst open some doors and -windows at that place. This I know that nothing escaped it in -Bergemoletto, but a few houses, the church, and the house of John -Arnaud. - -"Being therefore gathered together, in order to sum up their -misfortunes, the inhabitants first counted thirty houses overwhelmed; -and then every one calling over those he knew, twenty-two souls were -missing, of which number, was D. Giulio Caesare Emanuel, their parish -priest, who had lived among them forty years. The news of this terrible -disaster, soon spread itself over the neighbourhood, striking all those -who heard it, with grief and compassion. All the friends and relations -of the sufferers, and many others, flocked of their own accord, from -Bergemolo and Demonte; and many were dispatched by the magistrates of -these places, to try if they could give any relief to so many poor -creatures, who, perhaps, were already suffocated by the vast heap of -snow that lay upon them; so that by the day following, the number -assembled on this melancholy occasion amounted to three hundred. Joseph -Roccia, notwithstanding his great love for his wife and family, and his -desire to recover part of what he had lost, was in no condition to -assist them for five days, owing to the great fright and grief, -occasioned by so shocking an event, and the swoon which overtook him at -the first sight of it. In the meantime, the rest were trying, if, by -driving iron-rods through the hardened snow, they could discover any -roofs; but they tried in vain. The great solidity and compactness of the -valanca, the vast extent of it in length, breadth and heighth, together -with the snow, that still continued to fall in great quantities, eluded -all their efforts; so that after some days' labour, they thought proper -to desist from their trials, finding that it was throwing away their -time and trouble to no purpose. The husband of poor Mary Anne, no sooner -recovered his strength, than in company with his son, and Anthony and -Joseph Bruno, his brothers-in-law who had come to his assistance from -Demonte, where they lived, did all that lay in his power to discover the -spot, under which his house, and the stable belonging to it, were -situated. But neither himself, nor his relations, could make any -discovery capable of affording them the smallest ray of comfort; though -they worked hard for many days, now in one place, and now in another, -unable to give up the thoughts of knowing for certain, whether any of -their family was still alive, or if they had under the snow and the -ruins of the stable, found, at once, both death and a grave. But it was -all labour lost, so that, at length, he thought proper to return to the -house of Spirito Roccia, and there wait, till, the weather growing -milder, the melting of the snow should give him an opportunity of paying -the last duty to his family, and recovering what little of his substance -might have escaped this terrible calamity. - -"Towards the end of March, the weather, through the lengthening of the -days, and the setting in of the warm winds, which continued to blow till -about the twentieth of April, began to grow mild and warm; and, of -course, the great valanca to fall away by the melting of the snow and -ice that composed it; so that little by little, the valley began to -assume its pristine form. This change was very sensible, especially by -the eighteenth of April, so that the time seemed to be at hand for the -surviving inhabitants of Bergemoletto to resume their interrupted -labours, with some certainty of recovering a good part of what they had -lost on the unfortunately memorable morning of the nineteenth of March. -Accordingly, they dispersed themselves over the valanca, some trying in -one place, and some in another, now with long spades, and another time -with thick rods of iron, and other instruments proper to break the -indurated snow. One of the first houses they discovered by this means, -was that of Louisa Roccia, in which they found her dead body, and that -of one of her sons. Next day, in the house called the confreria, that -had two rooms on the ground floor, and one above them, they found the -body of D. Giulio Caesare Emanuel, with his beads in his hand. Joseph -Roccia, animated by these discoveries, set himself with new spirits -about discovering the situation of his house, and the stable belonging -to it; and with spades and iron crows, made several and deep holes in -the snow, throwing great quantities of earth into them; earth mixed -with water, being very powerful in destroying the strong cohesion of -snow and ice. On the twenty-fourth, having made himself an opening two -feet deep into the valanca, he began to find the snow softer and less -difficult to penetrate; wherefore, driving down a long stick, he had the -good fortune of touching the ground with it. - -"It was no small addition to Joseph's strength and spirit, to be thus -able to reach the bottom; so that he would have joyfully continued his -labour, and might perhaps on that very day, had it not been too far -advanced, have recovered some part of what he was looking for, and found -that which, assuredly, he by no means expected to meet with. When, -therefore, he desisted for that time, it was with much greater -reluctance than he had done any of the preceding days. The anxiety of -Joseph, during the following night, may well be compared to that of the -weather-beaten mariner, who finding himself, after a long voyage, at the -mouth of his desired port, is yet, by the coming on of night obliged to -remain on the inconstant waves till next morning. Wherefore, at the -first gleam of light, he, with his son, hastened back to the spot, where -the preceding day he had reached the ground with the stick, and began to -work upon it again; but he had not worked long, when lo, to his great -surprise, who should he see coming to his assistance but his two -brothers-in-law Joseph and Anthony Bruno. - -"Anthony, it seems, the night between the preceding Thursday and Friday, -being then in Delmonte, dreamed that there appeared to him, with a pale -and troubled countenance, his sister Mary Anne Roccia, who, with an -earnestness intermixed with grief and hope, called upon him for -assistance in the following words: - -"'Anthony, though you all look upon me as dead in the stable where the -valanca of snow overwhelmed me on the nineteenth of March, God has kept -me alive. Hasten therefore to my assistance, and to relieve me from my -present wretched condition; in you, my brother, have I placed all my -hopes, dont abandon me; help, help I beseech you.' Anthony's -imagination, was so affected by the thoughts of thus seeing his sister, -and hearing her utter these piteous words, that he immediately started -up, and calling out to his brother Joseph, he acquainted him with what -he had seen and heard. They both, therefore, as soon as it was day, set -out for Bergemoletto, where they arrived a little before eight, tired -and out of breath, for they seemed to have their sister continually -before their eyes, pressing them for help and assistance. Having -therefore taken a little rest and refreshment, they set out again for -the place, where Joseph Roccia, and many others, were hard at work in -looking for the wrecks of their houses. Joseph had left the spot, where, -the day before he thought he had reached the ground, and was trying to -reach it in other places. His brothers-in-law immediately fell to work -with him, and making many new holes in the snow, the interior parts of -which were not so very hard, with the same iron rods, with earth and -with long poles, they at last, about ten, discovered the so long sought -for house, but found no dead bodies in it. Knowing that the stable did -not lie one hundred feet from the house, they immediately directed their -search towards it, and proceeding in the same manner, about noon, they -got a long pole through a hole, from whence issued a hoarse and languid -voice, which seemed to say: 'help, my dear husband, help, my dear -brother, help.' The husband and brother thunderstruck, and at the same -time encouraged by these words, fell to their work with redoubled -ardour, in order to clear away the snow, and open a sufficient way for -themselves, to the place from whence the voice came, and which grew more -and more distinct as the work advanced. It was not long, therefore, -before they had made a pretty large opening, through which (none minding -the danger he exposed himself to) Anthony descended, as into a dark -pit, asking who it was, that could be alive in such a place. Mary Anne -knew him by his voice, and answered with a trembling and broken accent, -intermixed with tears of joy. 'Tis I, my dear brother, who am still -alive in company with my daughter and my sister-in-law, who are at my -elbow. God, in whom I have always trusted, still hoping that he would -inspire you with the thought of coming to our assistance, has been -graciously pleased to keep us alive.' God, who had preserved them to -this moment, and was willing they should live, inspired Anthony with -such strength and spirits, that, notwithstanding the surprise and -tenderness with which so joyful and at the same time so sad a sight must -have affected him, had presence of mind enough to acquaint his -fellow-labourers, all anxiously waiting for the report of his success, -that Mary Anne, Margaret, and Anne Roccia were still alive. Whereupon -Joseph Roccia, and Joseph Bruno, enlarging the passage as well as they -could, immediately followed him into the ruins; whilst the other -Alpineers, scattered over the valanca in quest of their lost substance, -and the dead bodies of their relations, on the son's calling out to -them, flocked round the mouth of the pit, to behold so extraordinary a -sight; not a little heightened by that of two live goats scampering out -of the opening. In the meantime, those who had descended into the hole, -were contriving how to take out of it the poor and more than half dead -prisoners, and convey them to some place, where they might recover -themselves. The first thing they did was to raise them up, and take them -out of the manger in which they had been so long stowed. They then -placed them one by one on their shoulders, and lifted them up to those -who stood round the mouth of the pit, who with very great difficulty -took hold of them by the arms, and drew them out of their dark -habitation. Mary Anne, on being exposed to the open air, and seeing the -light, was attacked by a very acute pain in the eyes, which greatly -weakened her sight, and was attended with so violent a fainting fit, -that she had almost like to have lost, in the first moment of her -deliverance, that life, which she had so long and with such difficulty -preserved. But this was a consequence that might be easily foreseen. She -had been thirty-seven days, secluded, in a manner entirely, from the -open air; nor had the least ray of light, in all that time, penetrated -her pupils. - -"Her son found means to bring her to herself with a little melted snow, -there being nothing else at hand fit for the purpose, and the accident -that happened her was improved into a rule for treating the companions -of her misfortune. They, therefore, covered all their faces, and wrapped -them up so well, as to leave them but just room to breathe, and in this -condition took them to the house of John Arnaud, where Mary Anne was -entirely recovered from her fit, by a little generous wine. They then -directly placed them in some little beds put up in the stable, which was -moderately warm, and almost entirely without light, and prepared for -them a mess of rye meal gruel, mixed with a little butter; but they -could swallow but very little of it." - - - - -CHAPTER V - -A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE--(_continued_) - - -"It is now proper I should say something of the most marvellous -circumstance, attending this very singular and surprising accident, I -mean their manner of supporting life, during so long and close a -confinement. I shall relate what I have heard of it from their own -mouths, being the same, in substance, with what Count Nicholas de -Brandizzo, intendant of the city and province of Cuneo, heard from them -on the sixteenth of May, when, by order of our most benevolent -sovereign, he repaired to Bergemoletto, effectually to relieve these -poor women, and the rest of the inhabitants, who had suffered by the -valanca. - -"To begin then; on the morning of the twenty-ninth of March, our three -poor women, expecting every minute to hear the bell toll for prayers, -had in the mean time, taken shelter from the rigour of the weather, in a -stable built with stones, such as are usually found in these quarters, -with a roof composed of large thin stones, not unlike slate, laid on a -beam ten inches square, and covered with a small quantity of straw, and -with a pitch sufficient to carry off the rain, hail or snow, that might -fall upon it. In the same stable were six goats, (four of which I heard -nothing of) an ass and some hens. Adjoining to this stable, was a little -room, in which they had fixed a bed, and used to lay up some provisions, -in order to sleep in it in bad weather without being obliged to go for -anything to the dwelling-house, which lay about one hundred feet from -it. I have already taken notice, that Mary Anne was looking from the -door of the stable at her husband and son, who were clearing the roof of -its snow, when warned by a horrible noise, the signal by which the -Alpineer knows the tumbling of the valancas, she immediately took -herself in with her sister-in-law, her daughter, and her little boy of -two years old, and shut the door, telling them the reason for doing it -in such a hurry. Soon after they heard a great part of the roof give -way, and some stones fall on the ground, and found themselves involved -on all sides with a pitchy darkness; all which they attributed, and with -good reason, to the fall of some valanca. Upon this, they for some time -thought proper to keep a profound silence, to try if they could hear any -noise, and by that means have the comfort of knowing that help was at -hand, but they could hear nothing. They therefore set themselves to -grope about the stable, but without being able to meet with anything -but solid snow. Anne light upon the door, and opened it, hoping she had -found out the way to escape the imminent danger they thought they were -in of the buildings tumbling about their ears; but she could not -distinguish the least ray of light, nor feel any thing but a hard and -impenetrable wall of snow, with which she acquainted her fellow -prisoners. They, therefore, immediately began to bawl out with all their -might; 'help, help, we are still alive'; repeating it several times; but -not hearing any answer, Anne put the door to again. They continued to -grope about the stable, and Mary Anne having light upon the manger, it -occurred to her, that, as it was full of hay, they might take up their -quarters there, and enjoy some repose, till it should please the -Almighty to send them assistance. The manger was about twenty inches -broad, and lay along a wall, which, by being on one side supported by an -arch, was enabled to withstand the shock, and upheld the chief beam of -the roof, in such a manner, as to prevent the poor women from being -crushed to pieces by the ruins. Mary Anne placed herself in the manger, -putting her son by her, and then advised her daughter and her -sister-in-law to do so too. Upon this, the ass which was tied to the -manger, frightened by the noise, began to bray and prance at a great -rate; so that, fearing lest he should bring the parapet of the manger, -or even the wall itself about their ears; they immediately untied the -halter, and turned him adrift. In going from the manger, he stumbled -upon a kettle that happened to lie in the middle of the stable, which -put Mary Anne upon picking it up, and laying it by her, as it might -serve to melt the snow in for their drink, in case they should happen to -be confined long enough to want that resource. Anne, approving this -thought, got down, and groping on the floor till she had found it, came -back to the manger. - -"In this situation the good women continued many hours, every moment -expecting to be relieved from it; but, at last, being too well -convinced, that they had no immediate relief to expect, they began to -consider how they might support life, and what provisions they had with -them for that purpose. Anne recollected that the day before she had put -some chestnuts into her pocket, but, on counting them, found they -amounted only to fifteen. Their chief hopes, therefore, and with great -reason now rested on thirty or forty cakes, which two days before had -been laid up in the adjoining room. The reader may well imagine, though -Anne had never told me a word of it, with what speed and alertness she -must, on recollecting these cakes, have got out of the manger, to see -and find out the door of the room where they lay; but it was to no -purpose; she roved and roved about the stable to find out what she -wanted, so that she was obliged to come as she went, and take up her -seat again amongst her fellow-sufferers, who still comforted themselves -with the hopes of being speedily delivered from that dark and narrow -prison. In the mean while, finding their appetite return, they had -recourse to their chestnuts. The rest of the chestnuts they reserved for -a future occasion. They then addressed themselves to God, humbly -beseeching him to take compassion on them, and vouchsafe in his great -mercy to rescue them from their dark grave, and from the great miseries -they must unavoidably suffer, in case it did not please him to send them -immediate assistance. They spent many hours in ejaculations of this -kind, and then thinking it must be night, they endeavoured to compose -themselves. Margaret and the little boy, whose tender years prevented -their having any idea of what they had to suffer in their wretched -situation, or any thought of death, and of what they must suffer, before -they could be relieved, fell asleep. But it was otherwise with Mary Anne -and Anne, who could not get the least rest, and spent the whole night in -prayer, or in speaking of their wretched condition, and comforting one -another with the hopes of being speedily delivered from it. As it seemed -to them, after many hours, that it was day again, they endeavoured to -keep up their spirits with the thoughts, that Joseph with the rest of -their friends and relations not getting any intelligence of their -situation, would not fail of doing all that lay in their power to come -at them. The sensation of hunger was earliest felt by the two youngest; -and the little boy crying out for something to eat, and there being -nothing for him but the chestnuts, Anne gave him three. - -"I said, that these women seemed to have some notion of the approach of -day and night, but I should never have dreamed in what manner this idea -could be excited in them, shut up as they were in a body of ice, -impervious to the least ray of light, had not they themselves related it -to me. The hens shut up in the same prison, were it seems the clocks, -which by their clucking all together, made them think the first day that -it was night, and then again after some interval that it was day again. -This is all the notion they had of day and night for two weeks together; -after which, not hearing the hens make any more noise, they no longer -knew when it was day or night. - -"This day the poor women and the boy supported themselves with their -chestnuts; and at the return of the usual signal of night, the boy and -Margaret went to sleep; while the mother and aunt spent it in -conversation and prayer. On the next day the ass by his braying, gave -now and then, for the last time, some signs of life. On the other hand, -the poor prisoners had something to comfort themselves with; for they -discovered two goats making up to the manger. This, therefore, was a -joyful event, and they gave the goats some of the hay they sat upon in -the manger, shrunk up with their knees to their noses. It then came into -Anne's head to try if she could not get some milk from the milch goat; -and recollecting that they used to keep a porringer under the manger for -that purpose, she immediately got down to look for it, and happily found -it. The goat suffered herself to be milked, and yielded almost enough to -fill the cup which contained above a pint. On this they lived the third -day. The night following the boy and the girl slept as usual, while -neither of the two others closed their eyes. Who can imagine how long -the time must have appeared to them, and how impatient they must have -been to see an end to their sufferings? This, after offering their -prayers to the Almighty, was the constant subject of their conversation. -'O, my husband,' Mary Anne used to cry out, 'if you two are not buried -under some of the valancas and dead; why do not you make haste to give -me, your sister, and children, that assistance which we so much stand in -need of? We are thank God, still alive, but cannot hold out much longer, -so it will soon be too late to think of us.' 'Ah, my dear brother,' -added Anne, 'in you next to God, have we placed all our trust. We are -alive, indeed, and it depends upon you to preserve our lives, by digging -us out of the snow and the ruins, in which we lie buried.' 'But let us -still hope,' both of them added, 'that as God has been pleased to spare -our lives, and provide us with the means of prolonging it, he will still -in his great mercy put it into the hearts of our friends and relations -to use all their endeavours to save us.' To this discourse succeeded new -prayers, after which they composed themselves as well as they could, in -order to get, if possible, a little sleep. - -"The hens having given the usual signal of the return of day, they began -again to think on the means of spinning out their lives. Mary Anne -bethought herself anew of the cakes put up in the adjacent room; and -upon which, could they but get at them, they might subsist a great while -without any other nourishment. On the first day of their confinement, -they had found in the manger a pitch fork, which they knew used to be -employed in cleaning out the stable, and drawing down hay through a -large hole in the hay-loft, which lay over the vault. Anne observed, -that such an instrument might be of service in breaking the snow, and -getting at the cakes, could they but recover the door leading into the -little room. She, therefore, immediately got out of the manger, from -which she had not stirred since the first day, and groping about, -sometimes meeting with nothing but snow, sometimes with the wall, and -sometimes loose stones, she, at length, light upon a door, which she -took for the stable door, and endeavoured to open it as she had done the -first day, but without success; an evident sign that the superincumbent -snow had acquired a greater degree of density, and pressed more forcibly -against it. She, therefore, made step by step, the best of her way back -to the manger, all the time conversing with her fellow-sufferers; and -taking the fork with her, continued to rove and grope about, till at -last she light upon a smooth and broad piece of wood, which to the touch -had so much the appearance of the little door, as to make her hope she -had at last found what she had been so earnestly looking for. She then -endeavoured to open it with her hand, but finding it impossible, told -the rest that she had a mind to employ the pitch fork; but Mary Anne -dissuaded her from doing so. 'Let us,' said she, 'leave the cakes where -they are a little longer, and not endanger our lives any further, by -endeavouring to preserve them. Who knows but with the fork, you might -make such destruction, as to bring down upon our heads, that part of the -stable that still continues together, and which, in its fall, could not -fail of crushing us to pieces. No, God keep us from that misfortune. -Lay down your fork Anne, and come back to us, submitting yourself to the -holy will of the Almighty, and patiently accept at his hands whatever he -may please to send us.' Anne, moved by such sound and affecting -arguments and reasons, immediately let the fork fall out of her hands, -and returned to the manger. 'Let us,' continued Mary Anne, 'let us make -as much as we can of our nursing goats, and endeavour to keep them alive -by supplying them with hay. Here is a good deal in the manger, and it -occurs to me, that when that is gone, we may supply them from another -quarter, for by putting up my hand, trying what was above me, I have -discovered that there is hay in the loft, and that the hole to it is -open, and just over our heads; so that we have nothing to do, but to -pull it down for the goats, whose milk we may subsist upon, till it -shall please God to dispose otherwise of us." - -This reasoning was not only sound in itself, but supported by facts; for -ever since their confinement, they had heard stones fall from time to -time upon the ground, and these stones could be no others than those of -the building, which the shock of the valanca had first loosened, and -which the weight it every day acquired by encreasing in density, -afterwards enabled it to displace. Wherefore, had she happened to -disturb with the pitch-fork, as there was the greatest reason to fear -she might, any of those parts, which, united together, served to keep -up the beam that supported the great body of snow, under which they lay -buried, the fall of the stable, and their own destruction, must have -infallibly been the consequence of it. - -"This day the sensation of hunger was more and more lively and -troublesome, without their having anything to allay it with but snow, -and the milk yielded them by one of the goats their fellow prisoners. I -say one of the goats for as yet they had milked but one of them, -thinking it would be useless, or rather hurtful, even if they could, to -take any milk from that in kid. Anne had recourse to the other, and in -the whole day, got from her about two pints of milk, on which, with the -addition of a little snow, they subsisted." - -The little boy, unable to struggle against the terrible conditions, grew -rapidly weaker and weaker, and the time had now come when he passed -painlessly away. - -"The death of this poor child proved the severest trial that the three -women, the two eldest especially, had to suffer during their long -confinement; and from this unfortunate day, the fear of death, which -they considered as at no great distance, began to haunt them more and -more. The little nourishment, which the goat yielded the poor women, had -made them suffer greatly on the preceding days; they were, besides, -benumbed, or rather frozen with the intense cold. Add to this the -necessary, but inconvenient and tormenting posture of their feet, knees, -and every other part of their bodies; the snow, which melting over their -heads, perpetually trickled down their backs, so that their clothes, and -their whole bodies were perfectly drenched with it: they were often on -the point of swooning away, and obliged to keep themselves from -fainting, by handling the snow, and putting some of it into their -mouths; the thirst with which their mouths were constantly burnt up; the -thoughts, that in all this time no one had been at the pains to look for -and relieve them; the consideration, that all they had hitherto -suffered, was nothing in comparison of what they had still to suffer -before they could recover their liberty, or sink under the weight of all -the evils which encompassed them; all these, certainly, were -circumstances sufficient to render them to the last degree, wretched and -miserable. Add to this, that the milk of their fond and loving nurse, -fell away little by little, till at length, instead of about two pints, -which she, in the beginning used to yield, they could not now get so -much as a pint from her. The hay that lay in the manger was all out, and -it was but little the poor women could draw out of the hole which lay -above them; so that as the goats had but little fodder, little -sustenance could be expected from that which they thought proper to -milk. These animals were become so tame and familiar, in consequence of -the fondness shewn them, that they always came on the first call to the -person that was to milk them, affectionately licking her face and hands. -Anne, encouraged by this tameness of theirs, bethought herself of -accustoming them to leap upon the manger, and from thence upon her -shoulders, so as to reach the hole of the hay-loft, and feed themselves; -so apt is hard necessity to inspire strength and ingenuity. She began by -the goat that yielded them milk, helping her up into the manger, and -then putting her upon her shoulders. This had the desired effect, the -animal being thereby enabled to reach much further with its head, than -they could with their hands. They did then the same by the other goat, -from whom, as soon as she should drop her kid, they expected new relief. -She, too, in the same manner, found means to get at the hay, which -afforded the poor women some relief in the midst of their pressing -necessity. After this day, the goats required no further assistance, -they so soon learned to leap of themselves on the manger, and from -thence on the women's shoulders. But we must not conclude that hunger -was the chief of the poor women's sufferings; far from it. After the -first days, during which it proved a sore torment to them, they through -necessity, grew so accustomed to very little and very light nourishment, -that they no longer felt any sensation of that kind, but lived -contentedly on the small quantity of milk they could get from their -goat, mixed with a little snow. Their breath was what gave them most -uneasiness; for it began to be very difficult on the fifth or sixth day, -every inspiration being attended with the sensation of a very heavy and -almost insupportable load upon them. - -"They now had lost all means of guessing at the returns of night and -day, and their only employment was to recommend themselves fervently to -God, beseeching him to take compassion of them, and at length, put an -end to their miseries, which increased from day to day. At last, their -nurse growing dry, they found themselves without any milk, and obliged -to live upon snow alone for two or three days, Mary Anne not approving -an expedient proposed by her sister. This was to endeavour to find the -carcasses of the hens; for as they had not heard them for some days -past, they had sufficient reason to think they were dead; and then eat -them, as the only thing with which they could prolong life. But Mary -Anne, rightly judging that it would be almost impossible to strip them -clean of their feathers, and that besides, the flesh might be so far -putrified, as to do them more harm than good, thought proper to dissuade -her sister from having recourse to this expedient. But the unspeakable -providence of God, whose will it was that they should live, provided -them with new means of subsistence, when least they expected it, by the -kidding of the other goat. By this event, they judged themselves to be -about the middle of April; wherefore, after offering God their most -humble thanks, for having preserved them so long, in the midst of so -many, and such great difficulties they again beseeched him to assist -them effectually, till they could find an opportunity of escaping their -doleful prison, and see an end to their great sufferings. Their hopes of -this their humble supplication being heard, were raised on the -appearance of this new supply, and on their reflecting that the snow -begins to thaw in April, in consequence of which that about the stable -would soon dissolve enough to let some ray of light break in upon them. -Mary Anne told me, that, though she was thoroughly sensible of the -badness of her condition, in which it was impossible for her to hold out -much longer, and saw it every day grow worse and worse; she never, -however, despaired of her living to be delivered. For my part, I cannot -sufficiently admire the courage and intrepidity of Anne, who told me, -that in all this time she never let a tear escape her but once. This was -on its occurring to her, that, as they must at length perish for want, -it might fall to her lot to die last. For the thought of finding herself -amidst the dead bodies of her sister and her niece, herself too in a -dying condition, terrified and afflicted her to such a degree, that she -could no longer command her tears, but wept bitterly. - -"I observed, that the goat had kidded. This event afforded the poor -women a new supply of milk, Anne for a while getting two porringers at a -time from her, with which they recruited themselves a little. But as the -goats began to fall short of hay, the milk of the only one that gave -them any, began to lessen in proportion, so that at length they saw -themselves reduced to a single, and even half a porringer. It was, -therefore, happy for them, that the time drew nigh, in which God had -purposed to rescue them from their horrible prison and confinement, and -put an end to their sufferings. One time they thought they could hear a -noise of some continuance at no great distance from them. This was -probably the 20th, when the parish priest's body was found. And, upon -it, they all together raised their weak and hoarse voices, crying out, -'Help, help!' but the noise ceased, and they this time neither saw nor -heard anything else that might serve as a token of their deliverance -being at hand. However, this noise alone was sufficient to make them -address God with greater fervour than ever, beseeching him to have -compassion on them, and to confirm them still more and more in their -warm hopes, that the end of their long misery was not far off. In fact, -they again heard another noise, and that nearer them, as though -something had fallen to the ground. On this they again raised their -voices, and again cried out, 'Help, help': but no one answered, and soon -after the noise itself entirely ceased. Their opinion concerning this -noise, and in this they certainly were not mistaken, was that it came -from the people, who were at work to find them, and who left off at the -approach of night, and went home with a design to return to their labour -the next morning. After the noise of the body fallen to the ground in -their neighbourhood, they seemed for the first time to perceive some -glimpse of light. The appearance of it scared Anne and Margaret to the -last degree, as they took it for a sure fore-runner of death, and -thought it was occasioned by the dead bodies; for it is a common opinion -with the peasants that those wandering wild-fires, which one frequently -sees in the open country, are a sure presage of death to the persons -constantly attended by them, which ever way they turn themselves; and -they accordingly call them death fires. But Mary Anne, was very far -from giving in to so silly a notion. On the contrary the light inspired -her with new courage, and she did all that lay in her power to dissipate -the fears of her sister and daughter, revive their hopes in God, and -persuade them that their deliverance and the end of all their sufferings -was at hand; insisting that this light could be no other than the light -of heaven, which had, at last, reached the stable, in consequence of the -valanca's melting, and still more in consequence of the constant boring -and digging into it by their relations, in order to come at their dead -bodies. Mary Anne guessed right for it was the next day that Anthony -descended into the ruins of the stable, and to his unspeakable surprise -found the poor women alive, blessing and exalting the most high, and -restored them from darkness to light, from danger to security, from -death to life, by drawing them out of the manger, and removing them to -the house of Joseph Arnaud, where they continued to the end of July. - -"Thirty-seven entire days did these poor women live in the most horrible -sufferings occasioned no less by filth and the disagreeable posture they -were confined to, than by cold and hunger; but the Lord was with them. -He kept them alive, and they are still living, in a new cottage built -the same year in the Foresta of Bergemoletto, at no great distance from -their former habitation." - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -AN EXCITING CAUCASIAN ASCENT - - -The following account of the ascent of Gestola, in the Central Caucasus, -is taken from _The Alpine Journal_, and the author, Mr C. T. Dent, has -most kindly revised it for this work, and has added a note as follows: - -"At the time (1886) when this expedition was made, the topography of the -district was very imperfectly understood. The mountain climbed was -originally described as Tetnuld Tau--Tau = Mountain. Since the -publication of the original paper a new survey of the whole district has -been carried out by the Russian Government and the nomenclature much -altered. The peak of Tetnuld is really to the south of Gestola. The -nomenclature has in the following extract been altered so as to -correspond with that at present in use and officially sanctioned." - -The party consisted of Mr Dent, the late Mr W. F. Donkin, and two Swiss -guides. They had safely accomplished the first part of their ascent of a -hitherto unclimbed peak, and were on the ridge and face to face with -the problem of how to reach the highest point. After describing the -glorious scenery which lay around them, Mr Dent writes: - -"Woven in between all these peaks lay a wilderness of crevassed slopes, -jagged rock ridges, and stretching glaciers, bewildering in their beauty -and complexity. To see the wondrous sights that were crowded into those -few minutes while we remained on the ridge, we would willingly have gone -five times further and fared ten times worse. In high spirits we turned -to the left (S.S.E.), and began our journey along the ridge which was to -lead us to Gestola, ever keeping an eye on the snowy form of Tetnuld, -and marvelling whether it would overtop our peak or not. For a few -steps, and for a few only, all went well. The snow was in good order on -the ridge, but we had to leave this almost immediately and make S.W. in -order to skirt the heights which still intervened between us and our -peak. The ice began to change its character. Two or three steps were cut -with a few strokes of the axe, and then all went well again for a time. -Then more steps, and a more ringing sound as the axe fell. We seemed, -too, however we might press on, to make no impression on this first -slope. Our doubt returned; the leader paused, drew up the rope, and bit -at a fragment of ice as he gazed anxiously upwards over the face. No! we -were on the right track, and must stick to it if we would succeed. For -an hour and a quarter we kept at it in silence, save for the constant -ringing blows of the axe. Our courage gradually oozed out, for when we -had worked back to the ridge again, we seemed to have made no progress -at all. The top of the mountain far above was already swathed in cloud, -and a distant storm on the south side was only too obvious. Another -little peak was won before we looked about again, but the summit seemed -no nearer. The exertion had begun to tell and the pace became slower. -Some one remarked that he felt hungry, and we all thereupon realised our -empty state, so we fortified ourselves for further efforts on a dainty -repast of steinbock, black bread a week old, and water--invigorating -victuals and exhilarating drink, rather appropriate to the treadmill -kind of exercise demanded. It is under conditions such as these that -strange diet tells on the climber; but even more trying and more -weakening than the poor quality of the food was the want of sleep from -which we had suffered for a good many nights. In the language of -science, our vital force and nervous energy were becoming rather rapidly -exhausted, or, to put it more colloquially and briefly, we were awfully -done. Three hours more at least was the estimate, and meanwhile the -weather was growing worse and worse. Reflecting that all points fall to -him who knows how to wait and stick to it, we pressed on harder to -escape from the dispiriting thoughts that suggested themselves, and -almost of a sudden recognised that the last of the deceptive little tops -had been left behind us, and that we were fighting our way up the final -peak. Better still, Tetnuld, which for so long had seemed to tower above -us, was fast sinking in importance, and there really seemed now, as we -measured the peak with the clinometer between the intervals of -step-cutting, to be little difference between the two points. The air -was so warm and oppressive that we were able to dispense with gloves. -One of the guides suffered from intense headache, but the rest of us, I -fancy, felt only in much the same condition as a man does at the finish -of a hard-run mile race. The clouds parted above us for a while, -mysteriously, as it seemed, for there was no wind to move them; but we -could only see the slope stretching upwards, and still upwards. Yet we -could not be far off now. Again we halted for a few seconds, and as we -glanced above, we mentally took stock of our strength, for there was no -question the pleasure had been laborious. Some one moved, and we were -all ready on the instant. To it once more, and to the very last victory -was doubtful. True, the summit had seemed close enough when the last -break in the swirling clouds had enabled us to catch a glimpse of what -still towered above; but our experience of Swiss snow mountains was -long enough to make us sceptical as to apparent tops, and possibly the -Caucasian giants were as prone to deceive as the human pigmies that -crawled and burrowed at their bases. - -"Still anxious, still questioning success, we stepped on, and the pace -increased as the doubt persisted. It is often said to be impossible, by -those who don't try, to explain why the second ascent of a mountain -always appears so much easier than the first; some explanation may be -found in the fact that on a virgin peak the uncertainty is really -increasing during the whole time, and the climax comes in the last few -seconds. Every step upwards make success more probable, and at the same -time, would make failure more disappointing. In fact, the only periods -when we are morally certain of success on a new expedition are before -the start and when victory is actually won. Still, we could hardly -believe that any insuperable obstacle would now turn us back; yet all -was new and uncertain, and the conditions of weather intensified the -anxiety. The heavy stillness of the air seemed unnatural, and made the -mind work quicker. The sensibility became so acute that if we ceased -working and moving for a moment the silence around was unendurable, and -seemed to seize hold of us. A distant roll of thunder came almost as a -relief. A step or two had to be cut, and the delay appeared -interminable. Suddenly, a glimpse of a dark patch of rocks appeared -above looming through the mist. The slope of the ridge became more -gentle for a few yards. Our attention was all fixed above, and we -ascended some distance without noticing the change. Another short rise, -and we were walking quickly along the ridge. We stopped suddenly; the -rocks we had seen so recently, had sunk below us on our left, while in -front the _arte_ could be followed with the eye, sloping away gradually -for a few yards, and then plunging sharply down to a great depth. It was -all over; through fair weather and through foul we had succeeded; and -there was yet another peak to the credit of the Alpine Club. - -[Illustration: A TYPICAL CAUCASIAN LANDSCAPE. - -_To face_ p. 105. - -By Signor Vittorio Sella.] - -"It was not a time for words. Burgener turned to us and touched the snow -with his hand, and we sat down in silence. Almost on the instant as we -took our places a great burst of thunder rolled and echoed around--a -grim salvo of Nature's artillery. The sudden sense of rest heightened -the effect of the oppressive stillness that followed. Never have I felt -the sense of isolation so complete. Gazing in front into the thin mists, -the very presence of my companions seemed an unreality. The veil of -wreathing vapour screened the huge panorama of the ice-world from our -sight. The black thunderclouds drifting sullenly shut out the world -below. No man knew where we were; we had reached our furthest point -in a strange land. We were alone with Nature, far from home, and far -from all that we were familiar with. Strange emotions thrilled the frame -and quickened the pulse. Weird thoughts crowded through the mind--it was -not a time for words. Believe me, under such conditions a man will see -further across the threshold of the unknown than all the book-reading or -psychological speculation in the world will ever reveal to him. - -"Coming back to considerations more prosaic and practical, we found that -it was 1.15 P.M. We realised, too, that the ascent had been very -laborious and exhausting, while there was no doubt that evil times were -in store for us. There were no rocks at hand to build a cairn, but we -reflected that the snow was soft, and that our footsteps would easily be -seen on the morrow. The aneroid marked the height we had attained as -16,550 feet.[4] A momentary break in the mist gave us a view of Dych -Tau, and we had just time to get a compass observation. After a stay of -fifteen minutes we rose and girded ourselves for the descent. I think we -all felt that the chief difficulty was yet to come, but we had little -idea of what was actually to follow. Directly after we had left the -summit a few puffs of wind began to play around and some light snow -fell. Still, it was not very cold, and if the storm would only keep its -distance all might be well. Down the first slope we made our way rapidly -enough, and could have gone faster had we not deemed it wise to husband -our strength as much as possible. In an hour and twenty minutes we -reached the place where we had left the provisions and the camera. The -feast was spread, but did not find favour. Never did food look so -revolting. The bread seemed to have turned absolutely black, while the -steinbock meat looked unfit to keep company with garbage in a gutter; so -we packed it up again at once, more from a desire to hide it from our -eyes than from any idea that it might look more appetising later on. -Andenmatten's headache had become much worse, and he could scarcely at -starting stand steady in his steps. Possibly his suffering was due to an -hour or two of intensely hot sun, which had struck straight down on us -during the ascent. I could not at the moment awaken much professional -interest in his case, but the symptoms, so far as I could judge, were -more like those experienced by people in diving-bells--were pressure -effects in short--for the pain was chiefly in the skull cavities. I may -not here enter into technical details, and can only remark now that -though Andenmatten suffered the most it by no means followed on that -account that his head was emptier than anybody else's. In due course we -came to the ice-slope up and across which we had cut our way so -laboriously in the morning; here, at least, we thought we should make -good progress with little trouble; but the sun had struck full on this -part of the mountain, and all the steps were flattened out and useless. -Every single step ought to have been worked at with as much labour as in -the morning, but it was impossible to do more than just scratch out a -slight foothold, as we made our way round again to the ridge. Below, on -the west side, the slope plunged down into the Ewigkeit, and our very -best attention had to be given in order to avoid doing the same. It was -one of the worst snow faces I ever found myself on, perhaps, under the -conditions, the worst. The direction in which we were travelling and the -angle of the slope made the rope utterly useless. Close attention is -very exhausting: much more exertion is required to walk ten steps, -bestowing the utmost possible care on each movement, than to walk a -hundred up or down a much steeper incline when the angle demands a more -accustomed balance. Not for an instant might we relax our vigilance -till, at 5.30 P.M., we reached once more the ridge close to the place -where we had forced our way through the cornice in the morning. - -"We had little time to spare, and hurrying up to the point, looked -anxiously down the snow wall. A glance was sufficient to show that the -whole aspect of the snow had entirely altered since the morning. -Burgener's expression changed suddenly, and a startled exclamation, -which I trust was allowed to pass unrecorded, escaped from him. -Andenmatten brought up some stones and rolled them down over the edge; -each missile carried down a broad hissing band of the encrusting snow -which had given us foot-hold in the morning, and swept the ice-slope -beneath as black and bare as a frozen pond; here and there near rocks -the stones stopped and sank deeply and gently into the soft, treacherous -compound. The light had begun to fail, and snow was falling more heavily -as we pressed on to try for some other line of descent. A hundred yards -further along the ridge we looked over again; the condition of the snow -was almost the same, but the wall was steeper, and looked at its very -worst as seen through the mist. Some one now suggested that we might -work to the north-west end of the ridge and make our way down to the -pass by the ice-fall. We tramped on as hard as possible, only to find at -the end of our journey that the whole mass seemed abruptly cut away far -above the Adine Col, and no line of descent whatever was visible. We -doubled back on our tracks till we came within a few yards of the summit -of a small peak on the ridge, the height of which was probably not less -than 15,000 feet. Already the cold was numbing and our wet clothes began -to stiffen; again we peered over the wall, but the rocks were glazed, -snow-covered, and impossible. The leader stopped, looked right and left -along the ridge, and said, 'I don't know what to do!' For the moment we -seemed hopelessly entrapped; the only conceivable place of shelter for -the night was a patch of rocks close to the summit of the peak near at -hand, and for these we made. It was an utter waste of time. Apart from -sleeping, we could not have remained there an hour, for we met the full -force of the wind, which by this time had risen considerably, and was -whirling the driving snow into every crack and cranny. What might have -begun as a temporary rest would infallibly have ended in a permanent -occupation. Indeed, the cold would have been far too intense that night -for us to have lived on any part of the bleak ridge. The situation was -becoming desperate. 'We must get down off the ridge and out of the -wind.' 'Ay,' said Burgener, 'we must, I know; but where?' The -circumstances did not call for reasonable answers, and so we said, -'Anywhere! To stay up here now means that we shall never get down at -all.' Burgener looked up quickly as if to say no, but hesitated, and -then muttered, 'That is true. Then what will you do? There is no way -down anywhere along the wall with the snow as it is now. There are great -ice-slopes a little way down.' As he spoke he leant over and looked -along the wall for confirmation of his opinions. A little way off a rib -of rock, blacker than the rest, showed through the mist. We both saw it -at the same time; Burgener hesitated, looked at it again, and then -facing round glanced at the prospect above. The wind was stronger and -colder and the snow was driving more heavily. There was no room for -doubt. We must put it to the touch and take the risk. We turned again, -and in a few minutes had squeezed ourselves through the cornice, and -were fairly launched on the descent. - -"We were now at a much higher level on the ridge than at the point we -had struck in ascending. It was only possible to see a few yards down; -the rocks looked appallingly steep, glazed, and grizzly, and we knew not -what we were coming to. But at any rate we were moving, and in a stiller -atmosphere soon forgot the cold. We went fast, but only by means of -doing all we knew, for the climbing was really difficult. It was a case -of every man for himself, and every man for the rest of the party. Now -was the time to utilise all that we had ever learned of mountain craft. -Never before, speaking for myself only, have I felt so keenly the -pleasure of being united to thoroughly trustworthy and good -mountaineers; it was like the rush of an eight-oar, where the sense of -motion and the swish through the water alone are sufficient to make -every member of the crew put all his strength into each stroke. The mind -was too active to appreciate the pain of fatigue, and so we seemed -strong again. Now on the rocks, which were loose and crumbly in parts, -elsewhere big and glazed, now in deep snow, now on hard crusts, we -fought our way down. So rapid was the descent that, when the opportunity -offered, we looked anxiously through the mist in the hope of seeing the -glacier beneath. Surely we had hit on a possible line of descent to the -very bottom. But there was not a moment for the grateful repose so often -engendered by enquiring minds on the mountains. We were racing against -time, or at least against the malevolent powers of darkness. Down a -narrow flat couloir of rock of no slight difficulty we seemed to go with -perfect ease, but the rocks suddenly ceased and gave way to an -ill-favoured snow-slope. The leader stopped abruptly and turned sharp to -the right. A smooth ice-gully some 30 feet wide separated us from the -next ridge of rock. The reason for the change of direction was evident -enough when Burgener pointed it out. As long as the line of descent kept -to the side that was more sheltered during the day from the sun, so -long was the snow fairly good. Our leader judged quickly, and with the -soundest reasoning, as it proved directly afterwards, that the line we -had been following would infallibly lead, if pursued further, to snow as -treacherous as that with which we were now so familiar. Across the -ice-slope then we must cut, perhaps a dozen or fifteen steps. - -"The first two or three Burgener made vigorously enough, but when within -10 or 15 feet of the rocks the extra effort told. He faltered suddenly; -his blow fell listlessly, and he leant against the slope, resting hands -and head on his axe. 'I am almost exhausted,' he said faintly, as he -turned round to us, while his quivering hands and white lips bore -evidence to the severity of the exertion. So for a minute or two we -stood in our tracks. A word of encouragement called up what seemed -almost a last effort, some little notches were cut, and we gained the -rocks again. A trickling stream of water was coursing down a slab of -rock, and at this we gulped as eagerly as a fevered patient. Standing on -the projecting buttress, we looked anxiously down, and caught sight at -last of the glacier. It seemed close to us; the first few steps showed -that Burgener's judgment was right; he had changed the line of descent -at exactly the right moment, and at the best possible place. Down the -last few hundred feet we were able to go as fast as before. The level -glacier beneath seemed in the darkness to rise up suddenly and meet us. -We tumbled over the _bergschrund_, ran down a short slope on the farther -side of it, and stood in safety on the glacier, saved by as fine a piece -of guiding as I have ever seen in the mountains. We looked up at the -slope. To our astonishment all was clear, and I daresay had been so for -long. Above, in a blue-black frosty sky, the stars were winking merrily; -the mists had all vanished as by magic. No doubt the cold, which would -have settled us had we stayed on the ridge, assisted us materially in -the descent by improving the snow. - -"There seemed still just light enough to search for our tracks of the -morning across the glacier, and we bore well to the right in the hope of -crossing them. I fancy that the marks would have been really of little -use, but, anyhow, we could not find them, and so made a wide sweep -across the upper part of the snow basin. As a result we were soon in -difficulty with the crevasses, and often enough it seemed probable that -we should spend the rest of the night in wandering up and down searching -for snow bridges. But we reached at last a patch of shale and rock, -which we took to be the right bank of the little glacier we had crossed -in the morning. Our clothes were wet, and the cold was becoming so sharp -that it was wisely decided, against my advice, to push on if possible -to the tent at once. For some three or four hours did we blunder and -stumble over the moraine, experiencing not a few tolerably severe falls -as we did so. Andenmatten selected his own line of descent, and in a few -minutes we had entirely lost sight of him. It was too dark to find our -way across the glacier, and we could only hope by following the loose -stone ridge to make our way to the right place. So we stuck to the -rocks, occasionally falling and nearly sticking on their detestably -sharp points. Even a Caucasian moraine leads somewhere if you keep to it -long enough, and as we turned a corner, the huge glimmering mass of Dych -Tau, towering up in front, showed that the end of our journey was not -far off. Presently the little white outline of the tent appeared, but we -regarded it with apathy, and made no effort to quicken our movements, -although the goal was in sight; it seemed to require, in our -semi-comatose condition, almost an effort to stop. As we threw open the -door of the tent the welcome sight of divers packets, neatly arranged in -a corner, met our gaze. The head policeman had proved himself an honour -to his sex, an exception to his compatriots, and a credit to the force. -There were bread, sugar, rice, meat, and firewood--yet we neither spoke -nor were moved. Andenmatten spurned the parcels with his foot and -revealed the lowermost. A scream of delight went up, for they had found -a packet of tobacco. The spell was broken, and once more all were -radiant. Such is man. A strange compound--I refer to the tobacco--it -proved to be, that would neither light nor smoke, and possessed as its -sole property the power of violently disagreeing with the men. It was -past midnight before the expedition was over. There were few -preliminaries observed before going to bed. I don't think that even -Donkin took more than a quarter of an hour in arranging a couch to his -satisfaction, and placing a very diminutive air-cushion on anatomical -principles in exactly the right place, while Andenmatten was fast asleep -in two minutes, his head pillowed gently on some cold mutton, and his -boots reposing under the small of his back. Something weighed on our -minds as we too lay down and tried to sleep. The towering cone of -Tetnuld, the distant view of Uschba, Elbruz, and the giant Dych Tau, the -rock and snow-slopes, pictured themselves one after another as -dissolving views on the white walls of the tent. The expedition was -over, but the pleasure and the impressions it had evoked were not. -Faster and faster followed the visions as in delirium. I sat up, and in -the excitement of the moment dealt a great blow at the nearest object, -which, as it chanced, was Andenmatten's ribs. I shouted out to my -companion. A muffled 'hulloa' was the response, and he too rose up. -'What is it?' 'By Heavens! it is the finest climb we have ever made.' -And so it was." - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -A MELANCHOLY QUEST - - -The accident in the Caucasus in 1888, by which Messrs Donkin and Fox and -their two Swiss guides lost their lives, was one of the saddest that has -ever happened in the annals of mountaineering. I will not dwell on it, -but will rather pass on to the search expedition, a short account of -whose operations will serve to illustrate how a thorough knowledge of -mountaineering may be utilised in finding a conjectured spot in an -unmapped region in the snow world. - -The year after the accident--for the season when it occurred was too -advanced for a thorough search to be then undertaken--a party of four -Englishmen, Messrs Douglas Freshfield, Clinton Dent, Hermann Woolley, -and Captain Powell, with Maurer of the Bernese Oberland as leading -guide, set out from England to try and ascertain how the accident -happened, and, if possible, recover the remains. They succeeded, in the -course of a profoundly interesting journey, in finding the last camp of -their friends, and from Mr Clinton Dent's fine description in _The -Alpine Journal_ I make, with his kind consent, the following extracts. -They show how well the old school of climbers learnt all the routine of -their art, and how superior is the trained mountaineer of any -nationality to the inexperienced dweller amongst mountains, who is -utterly unable to advance a single step upon them. - -Having journeyed to the district and got over all the easier ground at -first met with, the party was now fairly embarked in the region of ice -and snow. - -"The day was well advanced," writes Mr Dent, "and it is only on rare -occasions in the Central Caucasus that the valleys and sky are free from -cloud at such an hour. But not a vestige of mist was to be seen. The -conditions were not merely of good omen, but were also in the hightest -degree fortunate, for the object of our search seemed very minute in the -presence of such gigantic surroundings. The air was clear and soft, and -the snow in perfect order for walking. We worked our way due west, and -gradually, as we turned the buttress of rock, a steep and broad -ice-gully came into view, leading up to the pass. This consisted of a -broad snow-topped depression, from 1500 to 1800 feet above the -snow-field. On the right or east of the pass the ridge ran sharply up to -the pinnacle already mentioned, while on the left the ridge, broken up -on its crest by great towers of rock, stretched away to the summit of -Dych Tau, the peak of which from our point of view was not visible. A -careful inspection of the rocks with the telescope revealed nothing. A -possible place for a bivouac might have been found at any point on the -rocks below the pass, but no particularly likely spot was evident. It -was conceivable too, of course, that the travellers had discovered a -more suitable place on the Ullu Auz side, close to the summit of the -pass. In any case our plan of action was clear, and we set forth without -delay to ascend the wall. Two long ribs of rock lying on the right of -the ice-gully offered the best means of access. Both looked feasible, -but it was only after a moment's hesitation that the left-hand one was -selected, as it seemed more broken, was broader, and ran up higher. If -the right-hand rib had been chosen, we might conceivably have missed the -object of our search altogether. We made our way up the rocks without -any great difficulty. Half-melted masses of snow constantly hissed down -the ice-gully as we ascended, and the great chasm that extends along the -base of the cliff was choked for the most part with avalanche snow. The -rocks were steep, but so broken as to offer good hand-and foot-hold. -Still, the mind was sufficiently occupied in attending to the details of -climbing to prevent the thoughts from wandering. Insensibly, we began -to think little save of the view that would be revealed from the top of -the pass. From time to time an opportunity would be found of gazing to -the right or left, but progress was tolerably continuous. Maurer, who -was leading, looked upwards now and again, as he worked out the best -line of ascent, but the rocks were so steep that he could only see a -very few feet. Just about mid-day, as he stopped for a moment to look -upwards, I saw his expression suddenly change. 'Herr Gott!' he gasped -out, 'der Schlafplatz!'[5] I think I shall never forget the thrill the -words sent through me. We sprang up, scrambling over the few feet that -still intervened, and in a moment were grouped on a little ledge just -outside the bivouac. There was little enough to be seen at the first -glance save a low horse-shoe shaped wall of stones, measuring some 6 -feet by 8, and carefully built against an overhanging rock. The -enclosure was full of drifted snow, raised up into a hump at the back, -where it covered a large rcksack. On a ledge formed by one of the -stones, a little tin snow spectacle-box caught the eye as it reflected -the rays of the sun. For a few moments all was excitement as the -presence of one object after another was revealed. 'See here,' cried -Maurer, as he scooped away the snow with his hands, 'the sleeping-bags!' -'And here a rcksack,' said another. 'Look, they made a fire there,' -called out a third, 'and here is the cooking kettle and the revolver.' -Then came somewhat of a reaction, and for a few minutes we could but -gaze silently at the place that told so clear a tale, and endeavour to -realise to the full the evidence that had come upon us with such -overwhelming suddenness. - - * * * * * - -"It is most probable that the accident occurred on the south side of the -cliffs forming the eastern ridge of Dych Tau. The party must have been -roped at the moment, and it is very reasonable to suppose that they were -engaged in traversing one of the many ice and snow covered slopes that -exist on this side. What the exact nature of the accident was matters -little; but it may be remembered that the snow on such slopes and ledges -often binds very lightly, and that there are no mountains, perhaps, -where these places are more numerous or more treacherous than in the -Caucasus. It was possibly one of those rare instances in which the rope -was a source of danger and not of security to the party as a whole. Yet -the rule is clear, and it amounts to this: if a place is too dangerous -to cross with a party roped, lest the slip of one drag down all, then it -is too dangerous to cross at all. So steep are the cliffs that a fall -must have meant instantaneous death. As an example, a torn sleeping-bag -which was thrown over the bivouac wall fell to the very bottom of the -slope, and we saw it just above the _bergschrund_ as we descended. It -was necessary to take down some of the articles discovered, for we might -otherwise have found difficulty in convincing the natives of the success -of the expedition, and this was an important point. The height of the -pass is 14,350 feet, and of the bivouac about 14,000 feet. We left the -bivouac at 3.30 P.M., the day being still perfectly cloudless. The -ice-fall offered some little difficulty, one or two of the bridges by -which we had crossed in the morning having broken down. Still we were -able to keep to almost the same line as that adopted in ascending. - - * * * * * - -"No one familiar with the Caucasus would be willing to believe that any -native could have reached the bivouac. The people are still very -timorous on ice, and are wholly incapable of facing an ice-fall, much -less of making any way through one. No native could have been got to the -place even if in the train of competent mountaineers; alone, he would -not have set foot on the glacier at all. - -"A day or two later we made our way down to the collection of villages -known as Balkar, a good three and a half hours' walk from Karaoul. The -place is not well spoken of, but we were hospitably received and -entertained. In this, as in many other villages subsequently, the story -of our search excited much interest. On every occasion the proceedings -were almost exactly identical. As usual in the Caucasus, the natives all -crowded into our apartment soon after arrival. Powell would then select -some Russian-speaking man in authority, and announce through him that -the results of our expedition would be made known to all who cared to -hear them. The whole story was then told, and admirably Powell used to -narrate it, winding up by pointing out how the people of the district -were now exonerated from any suspicion that may have lain on them. Such -suspicion, he used to add, had never been entertained by any English -people. The account was always listened to in breathless silence. At the -conclusion it was repeated by the chief to the natives in their own -language. Then the rcksack was brought in and the articles found shown. -These were always instantly accepted as absolute proof; the rusty -revolver especially excited attention. Expressions of sorrow and brief -interjections were always heard on all sides. Then the chief spoke to -some such effect as follows: 'We are indeed rejoiced that you have found -these traces. It relieves our people from an irksome and unjust -suspicion. It is well that Englishmen came to our country for this -search, for we believe that no others could have accomplished what you -have done. We are all very grateful to you. Englishmen are always most -welcome in our country. We are glad to receive them. Our houses are -theirs, and the best we can do shall always be done for your -countrymen.' In several places--at Chegem, for instance--words were -added to this effect: 'We remember well Donkin and Fox; they were brave -and good men, and we loved them. It is very sad to us to think that they -are lost.'" - -A more detailed account of this melancholy quest will be found in Messrs -Douglas Freshfield's and Vittorio Sella's work, _The Exploration of the -Caucasus_. It is from this, the most beautifully illustrated of any book -on mountaineering, that, with Mr Freshfield's kind permission and that -of Mr Willink, I take the picture of the sleeping-place. The finished -drawing was made by Mr Willink from a sketch by Captain Powell. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND FATAL ACCIDENTS - - -Probably not half the narrow escapes experienced by climbers are ever -described, even in the pages of the various publications of English and -foreign Alpine Clubs, though when an accident by the breaking of a -snow-cornice is just avoided, the incident is so terribly impressive -that several accounts have found their way into print. Scarcely anything -more startling than a certain occurrence on a ridge of the Mnch, which -happened to the late Mr Moore and his two guides, Melchior and Jacob -Anderegg, has ever been related. The party had succeeded in making the -ascent of the Mnch from the Wengern Alp, it being only the third -occasion when this long and difficult climb was accomplished, each of -their predecessors spending _three days and three nights_ on the -expedition. - -[Illustration: MELCHIOR ANDEREGG, OF MEIRINGEN.] - -[Illustration: A SON AND A GRANDCHILD OF MELCHIOR ANDEREGG, 1903. - -_To face_ p. 124.] - -Having gained the summit, the party proceeded to go down by the usual -route towards the Trugberg. This follows a very narrow _arte_. "On the -left hand," says Mr Moore in _The Alpine Journal_, "is an absolute -precipice; on the right a slope, which might be called precipitous, -falls to the Aletsch Glacier. The quantity of snow on the ridge was -enormous, and the sun had begun to tell upon it. We knew too much to -attempt to approach the upper edge, and kept at a distance of some 12 -feet below it on the Aletsch side; lower down we dared not go, owing to -the steepness of the slope and the danger of starting an avalanche. With -Melchior in front it is unnecessary to say that we moved with the -greatest caution. No man is more alive than he to the danger arising -from a snow-cornice. He sounded with his axe at every step, and we went -steadily along, anxious, but with every reason to believe that we were -giving the cornice a wide berth. Suddenly came a startling cry from -Melchior. At the same instant I felt myself stagger, and, instinctively -swinging ever so slightly to the right, found myself the next moment -sitting astride on the ridge. With a thundering roar the cornice on our -left for a distance of some 200 yards went crashing down to the depths -below, sending up clouds of snow-dust which completely concealed my -companions from me. It was only by the absence of all strain on the rope -that I knew--though at the moment I scarcely realised the fact--that -they were, like myself, safe. As the dust cleared off, Melchior, also -sitting astride of the ridge, turned towards me, his face white as the -snow which covered us. That it was no personal fear which had blanched -our leader's sunburnt cheeks his first words, when he could find -utterance, showed. 'God be thanked!' said he; 'I never thought to see -either of you there.' We had, in fact, escaped destruction by a -hand's-breadth. As I believe, our right feet had been on the ridge, our -left on the cornice; we had thus just sufficient firm standing-ground to -enable us to make that instinctive movement to the right which had -landed us _ cheval_, for Jacob had fallen in the same position as -Melchior and myself. Few words were said; but words poorly express the -emotions at such a moment. Melchior's axe had been carried down with the -cornice as it fell, but had fortunately lodged on the face of the -precipice 50 feet below. It was too precious to leave behind, so we let -him down by the rope, and descending in a cat-like way peculiar to -first-class guides when not hampered by _Herrshaft_, he regained it -without difficulty. - -"Our further descent was uneventful." - -One of the greatest dangers of mountaineering is from falling stones, -yet the number of fatal accidents from this cause is as few as the -narrow escapes are many. As exciting an experience as can well be -imagined took place on the Aiguille du Midi at Chamonix in 1871. The -party consisted of Messrs Horace Walker and G. E. Foster. The latter -wrote a graphic account in _The Alpine Journal_, and kindly allows me -to make the following extracts. The guides were Jacob Anderegg and Hans -Baumann, and the climbers wished to ascend from the Montanvert and be -the first to go down the steep face of the mountain on the Chamonix -side. - -After some difficulty in finding the route, for both the guides were -unacquainted with the district, and Mr Walker alone knew in a vague sort -of way that the peak was somewhere in the neighbourhood of the Gant -ice-fall, they eventually stood on the top. It had taken them ten hours, -and they sat for some time on the more sheltered Chamonix side, debating -by what route they should descend. The slopes below were very steep, so -they decided to retrace their steps to the foot of the rocks, and then, -turning over on to the Chamonix side of the mountain, make their way as -best they could down ice-filled gullies and precipitous rocks. All at -first went well, and soon they commenced to cross the face of the cliff -to gain a rocky buttress that offered a likely route some hundred feet -below the top of the wall. "Jacob was leading," writes Mr Foster, -"Walker next, I followed, and Baumann brought up the rear. Only one was -moving at a time, and every one had the rope as taut as possible between -himself and his neighbour. Jacob was crossing a narrow gully, when -suddenly, without any warning, as though he had trod on the keystone of -the wall, the whole face for some 30 or 40 feet above him peeled off, -and with a crash like thunder, hundreds of tons of rocks precipitated -themselves on him. In an instant he was torn from his hold, and hurled -down the precipice with them. Fortunately, Walker was able to hold on, -though the strain on him was something awful. As the uproar ceased, and -silence even more impressive succeeded, we looked in one another's faces -with blank dismay. From our position it was impossible to see what had -become of Jacob, and only the tight rope told us that his body at least, -living or dead, was still fastened to us. In a voice singularly unlike -his own, Walker at length cried out, 'Jacob,' and our hearts sank within -us as it passed without response. 'Jacob! Ach Jacob!' Walker repeated; -and I trust none of my readers may ever know the relief we felt when the -reply came back, 'Ich lebe noch.'[6] - -"From where I was I could not see him, but Walker craned over a rock, -and then turned round. 'I see him. He is awfully hurt, and bleeding -frightfully.' I then contrived to shift my position, and saw that he was -indeed hurt. His face was black with blood and dirt, the skin torn from -his bleeding hands, while his clothes in ribands threatened worse -injuries still unseen. After a moment, he managed to recover his -footing, and then untied the rope with trembling fingers, and crawled -along the face of the cliff to the other side of the gully, where some -snow offered means to stanch his wounds. - -"As soon as he was safe, Baumann called on us to stand still, and -clambered carefully over the spot where the rocks had given way, our -only road lying there. I followed, and then Walker, knotting up the rope -to which Jacob had hung, crossed last. With Jacob below us, care was -necessary in climbing so as to send no more loose fragments on his head, -but we at last reached the spot where he was standing. Thanks to the -snow, the bleeding had already stopped to a great extent, and with the -aid of some sticking-plaster Walker had with him, and some torn strips -from a pocket-handkerchief, we bound up his wounds as well as we could. -He had had a marvellous escape; no fragment had struck him fully, the -rock that had grazed his face having missed knocking out his brains from -his presence of mind in throwing back his head. Fortunately, no bones -were broken, though he was badly bruised all over, and after a quarter -of an hour's rest and a good pull at the brandy-flask, he said he was -ready to start again. - -"On taking hold of the rope to tie him on again, we were awestruck to -find all its strands but one had been severed, so that his whole weight -had hung literally on a thread. Strange as it may appear, the rock that -had done this had probably saved his life by jerking him out of the line -of fire. Still, all honour to Messrs Buckingham for their good -workmanship, to which, and Walker's holding powers, we owe our escape -from a miserable ending of our day's work. As it was, poor Walker's ribs -had suffered sadly, and with two wounded men we recommenced our descent. - -"Naturally, our trust in the rocks was gone, and we took as soon as -possible to the steep snow of the couloir. This, however, lay so thin on -the ice, that we found we had only exchanged one danger for another. -Baumann led and we followed, driving in our axe-heads at every step, but -were soon forced to descend into a narrow gully, cut by avalanches, -where the snow was deep enough to give better footing. The sides of this -were above our heads, and the bottom not more than a foot wide, so that -the danger from avalanches was very great, but for a time we descended -safely. Then a startled shout from Walker warned me that something was -wrong, and driving my axe desperately into the side, I found myself up -to the neck in a snow avalanche. For a moment I thought all was up, but -held on to the best of my powers. Then finding the stream did not stop, -I looked back, and found Walker and Jacob had contrived to get out of -the gully. With a shout to Baumann, I gave a desperate struggle, and -followed their example, and instantly saw the snow I had held up surge -over Baumann's head. For a moment he held on, then climbed out on my -side. We waited till the avalanche had passed, two of us on one side of -the gully and two on the other, and then Walker and Jacob jumped into it -with a groan, as it shook their bruised bones, and climbed up to our -side, and with an occasional look for Baumann's hat, which the avalanche -had carried off with it, pursued our way. - -"So long and steep was the couloir, so thin and treacherous the snow -layer on the ice, that a good hour elapsed before we reached the bottom, -where a formidable _bergschrund_ cut off access to the glacier. Only at -one point could we find a bridge, and that was where our old enemy, the -avalanche gully, terminated, choking the crevasse with its snows, and -spreading in a fan-like mass below. With some hesitation, as our -recollection of it was not pleasant, and it was here all hard ice, -Baumann cut his way down into it. We were scarcely all fairly in it, -when we heard a tremendous crash above. Clearly, another avalanche was -descending, this time composed of rocks. As it was 2000 feet above us, -and would take some time to clear the distance, a short race for life -ensued. Baumann cut steps with amazing rapidity. Fortunately, some half -dozen only were necessary. With one eye on him and one keeping a sharp -look-out for the advent of the unwelcome stranger, we hastened down, -crossed the bridge, scampered down a slope, and merely stooping down to -pick up Baumann's hat, which turned up here, got out of the way just in -time, as an enormous mass of snow and rocks dashed over where we had -stood not a minute before." - -This was the last adventure the party had that day from avalanches, but -their troubles were as yet by no means over. Some formidable glacier -work had to be accomplished before all was plain sailing. "Though we -were now tolerably reckless, the difficulties in our way nearly beat -us," Mr Foster goes on to say. "Three times we tried, and thrice in -vain, though knife edges of the most revolting description were passed, -and crevasses of fabulous width and depth jumped or got over as seemed -best. Again and again we were forced to return. At length, when we were -almost in despair, a way was found, and at 6.30, drenched by the storm -which by this time had burst upon us, we reached the little hotel at the -Pierrepointue." - -There are no climbing dangers which skill and care can more surely avert -than those which are ever present on a crevassed, but snow-covered -glacier. - -[Illustration: CREVASSES AND SRACS ON THE LOWER PART OF A GLACIER.] - -[Illustration: A SNOW BRIDGE OVER A CREVASSE.] - -[Illustration: ON THE BORDER OF A CREVASSE ABOVE THE SNOW LINE.] - -[Illustration: SOFT SNOW IN THE AFTERNOON ON A GLACIER. - -By Signor R. Cajrati Crivelli Mesmer. - -_To face_ p. 133.] - -Should a party fail to arrest the fall of one of its members, and have -difficulty in pulling him above ground, however, the position may -become most serious. If another party is within hail, matters are -generally simple enough, yet even for four or five people it is not -always the easiest thing in the world to haul up a companion who has -disappeared into the bowels of the earth, especially if the folly of -walking unroped has been indulged in. - -A good description of what might have been a serious business but for -the skill and resource of a member of the party is given in the course -of a description of some climbs in the Rocky Mountains. The writer, Mr -Harold B. Dixon, says in _The Alpine Journal_: "A snow-covered crevasse -crossed our route at right angles. The party in front, who were without -ropes, saw the crevasse, and proceeded to leap it. All crossed in safety -but the last man, who broke through the snow and disappeared. Through -the hole the wide mouth of the crevasse was revealed, showing the danger -of trusting to the frail bridge. It was obviously dangerous to recross -without a rope, so his companions signalled to us for help, but for some -time we failed to observe their signals. - -"Though stunned by the fall our friend was not materially damaged, but -he was in a sufficiently awkward fix. Jammed between the narrowing walls -of ice, he was unable to move a limb except his right arm. The crevasse -did not drop perpendicularly, but the ice-wall bulged out from the side -we stood on, and then curved over out of sight; we could not see down -more than 18 feet. We stood in a little semicircle at the hole, and one -short sentence was spoken: 'Some one must go down.' We looked at each -other. Sahrbach and Baker are large and heavy men: it was obvious they -must 'pass.' I am of lighter build; I proclaimed my 11 stone and -readiness to go. But Collie went better. 'I am 9 stone 6,' was his -deliberate statement. There was no means of seeing if this was a bluff, -so we threw up our hands--the trick was his. Tying a stirrup loop for -one foot and a noose round his waist, Collie attached himself to one -rope, which was then joined to a second. Meanwhile the Americans were -brought across the crevasse by the aid of another rope, and axes were -fixed deep in the snow in suitable positions to fasten the rope to. Then -we let Collie down as far as he would go. An anxious moment followed. 'I -can't reach him,' came Collie's voice from below. Then, after a few -minutes, 'Send down a slip knot on the other rope.' We made the knot and -lowered the rope. How Collie managed it I don't know, for he could not -reach his man, but he threw the loop round the prisoner's right arm, and -then called on us to pull. At the second haul we felt something give, -and our friend was pulled into an upright position, when Collie could -just reach him with his left hand, and with this he tied a knot above -the elbow of his right arm. By this knot we hauled him out of the narrow -crevasse and on to the bulge of ice without difficulty. But as we pulled -the rope cut into the snow, and we could not raise our burden within 6 -feet of the surface. Then, while the rope was held taut, one of us -worked the handle of an axe along under the rope by sitting on the snow -and pushing it forward with his feet. In this way the rope was loosened, -and we could haul up another 3 feet, and then Sahrbach, leaning over, -reached his collar, and our half-frozen friend was deposited on the snow -with an assortment of flasks, while we fished out Collie from his -uncomfortable position. They were both very wet and cold, but no bones -were broken." - -Here we see that even with a large party of competent people, it was no -easy matter to rescue a comrade from his icy prison. The details are -well given, and may be useful to any one so unfortunate as to require by -personal experience a knowledge of what should be done under similar -circumstances. - -The danger of crossing snow-covered glaciers when the party does not -number more than two was brought home to those who heard of it by one of -the most tragical events which has ever been recorded in the annals of -mountaineering. A German, Dr Schffer, had been celebrating his golden -wedding at a small place on the Brenner on 22nd August 1900. He engaged -a guide, by name Johann Offerer, and, sleeping at a hut, started early -next morning. They reached the Wildlahner Glacier in an hour and a half -from their sleeping quarters, and after traversing it for some distance -came to a large crevasse. This the guide crossed safely on a snow -bridge, but the tourist, a much heavier man, broke through, and pulled -his companion down with him. They fell about 100 feet, with the result -that the guide had a broken thigh and arm, while Dr Schffer only -bruised his knee. He put his coat round Offerer and left food beside -him, and then tried to get out of the crevasse. After hours of toil and -pain he managed to reach a ledge not very far below the mouth of the -crevasse, but further he could not get. At last he gave up all hope, and -sat down to die, first, however, writing a full account of the accident, -and leaving a sum of money for the widow of his guide. It is to this -pathetic last effort of his life that we owe our knowledge of what -happened. The only other instance at all like it is the terrible -accident on Mont Blanc in 1870, when eleven persons perished in a -snow-storm, one of their number, Mr Bean, leaving details in his diary -of the events immediately preceding the catastrophe. - -[Illustration: THE BETMPS HUT.] - -[Illustration: SKI-ING.] - -[Illustration: HOW A BEGINNER USUALLY ENDS A RUN.] - -[Illustration: A GREAT CREVASSE IN THE UPPER SNOW FIELDS. - -_To face_ p. 137.] - -It was only on 5th September, after a long search, that the remains of -the two unfortunate men were discovered. - -The following is of special interest, because, of late years, the -Norwegian sport of ski-ing has become exceedingly popular in Alpine -winter resorts. It is impossible, however, owing to the great length of -the ski, to go in difficult places on them, and therefore mountaineers -have only used them when intending to ascend to points accessible -entirely over snow-slopes, not much broken up by crevasses. The first -fatal accident to a climbing party on ski took place in 1902, and may -serve as a warning to those intending to traverse glaciers in winter on -skis, or indeed even without them. I take my account from a translation -from the Italian, which appeared in _The Alpine Journal_. The comments -by the editor should be laid to heart. - -"A party of five gentlemen and four Zermatt guides left Zermatt on 24th -February for the Btemp Hut, with the intention of ascending the -Signalkuppe and the Zumstein, _via_ the Grenz Glacier and the Capanna -Margherita. - -"The 25th was spent in ski practice in the neighbourhood of the hut. On -the 26th the whole party, with the exception of one guide who had -brought a defective pair of skis, left the hut at 3.30 A.M. in weather -marked by no adverse conditions of any kind. The Grenz Glacier was -reached somewhat west of the point marked 3344 mtres on the Siegfried -map. The party unroped, proceeded upwards on their skis towards the -point marked 3496 mtres, the surface of the glacier, covered with deep -snow, showing no crevasses nor the indications of any. About midway -between 3300 mtres and the point 3344 mtres the caravan found itself -on a gentle slope, when a muffled crack was heard, and Herr Koenig, Herr -Flender, and one of the guides, Hermann Perren, were seen to sink almost -simultaneously into a concealed crevasse about 6 feet in width, which -ran in a direction parallel with the glacier, carrying with them a mass -of snow about 65 feet in length and over 14 feet in thickness. -Obviously, no amount of probing would have indicated the presence of the -crevasse, and thus by an unfortunate coincidence the three men were -standing at the same time over the hidden abyss without knowing it. One -of the other guides was instantly lowered into the crevasse by the only -available rope (the other being on Herr Flender's back), which proved to -be just too short to reach Hermann Perren, who had fallen about 90 feet, -and was standing upright against the side of the crevasse, held fast in -a mass of snow which had left his head and one arm free. Two of the -party hurried down to fetch another rope from the Btemps Hut. In the -meanwhile Perren had managed, after a struggle of two and a half hours, -almost to set himself free, and was eventually drawn out safely, -practically uninjured, save a slightly frost-bitten hand. The dead body -of Herr Flender, found with his neck broken, partially covered with some -2 feet of hard snow, was then extricated, but in spite of persistent -efforts the body of Herr Koenig was not recovered until the next day, -when he was found lying face downwards under a mass of compact snow over -10 feet thick. Death in his case was instantaneous, caused by -suffocation, the body bearing no signs whatever of external injury. Herr -Koenig was laid to rest in the English cemetery at Zermatt, while the -body of Herr Flender was conveyed by his relatives to its last -resting-place at Dsseldorf. This is, we think, the first fatal accident -which has occurred to a party of climbers on skis bound on a serious -climbing expedition. The party on this occasion cannot with justice be -accused of recklessness, for the apparent neglect of the usual -precaution of putting on the rope on a snow-covered glacier will not be -misunderstood by those accustomed to the use of skis, who will readily -understand that the rope is practically impossible, and even dangerous, -for a party on skis. - -"A remarkable feature of the accident was the thickness of the mass of -snow which gave way under the three men, and demonstrates the extreme -insecurity of winter snow on a crevassed glacier. It is possible that -the three men were perhaps too close to each other at the time of the -accident. - -"It is evident that winter climbers who wish to use skis must carry -their lives in their own hands, and perhaps the safer plan for future -expeditions of this kind will be to make the ascent roped in the usual -way on snow _racquettes_ carrying the skis on the back. On the descent -the risk of breaking through the snow covering during the rapid progress -on skis would of course be very much less than on the ascent." - -One of the most fruitful causes of accidents on mountains is the -underrating of difficulties by ignorant persons who, having been hauled -up and let down precipices by a couple of sturdy guides in fine weather, -proceed to inform their friends and acquaintances that "Nowadays the -Matterhorn is mere child's play, don't cher know." - -A sorry tale is told by the famous climber, Mr Cecil Slingsby, who, -himself accustomed to undertake the hardest climbs without guides, would -be the first to discourage imitation in any unfit to follow in his -steps. - -Writing of Skagastldstind, in Norway, of which he made the first -ascent, and which is still considered the most difficult of the -fashionable climbs in that country, he says in _The Alpine Journal_: - -"In 1880 a young tourist, son of a rich banker, whom I will call Nils, -desirous of emulating our exploits, attempted the mountain, and with the -assistance of two good climbers, who shoved and hauled him up the rocks, -succeeded in reaching the summit. Unfortunately, he afterwards wrote a -pamphlet of sixty-six pages about the mountain, in which he underrated -its difficulties. This pamphlet, I unhesitatingly assert, has been the -main cause of a terrible tragedy which took place on Skagastldstind. It -was in this manner. At one of the series of huts built by the tourist -club a young man, named Tnsberg, who had been partially deranged, was -staying with his wife, and was deriving much benefit from the mountain -air. Here he read this pamphlet, and inferred that though -Skagastldstind was undoubtedly a very fine mountain, yet the -difficulties of its ascent had been much exaggerated, and that any one -might make it. Upon this he set off with a lad seventeen years of age, -at 9.30 P.M., in vile weather; walked through the night (in the middle -of summer it is never dark), and reached a saetor (or chlet) at 3 A.M.; -here they found Peter, one of Nils' guides, who refused to have anything -more to do with the mountain. At last, by means of bribes, and by -promising to turn back at once if the mountain should prove -impracticable, Peter was persuaded to go forward; and at 6 o'clock they -sallied out into the wet. Wind and snow soon assailed them, but -Tnsberg would persist in his rash work. At 11 they reached the actual -base of the peak, 4100 feet below the top. The lad was frost-bitten and -could go no further; neither could Peter. They tried to tie the man with -ropes, but he was too strong for them, and used his alpenstock against -them, and it was no good. Soon afterwards he left them in the mist, and -in twenty strides was out of sight. A month or five weeks after this his -remains were found in a deep chasm between a glacier and the rocks, -amidst crags at least 2000 feet higher up on the mountain. I may add -that the valley Midt Maradal, out of which Skagastldstind rises, is so -difficult to approach, that though it contains rich pasturage at its -lower end--a mine of wealth in Norway--its owner, a man of forty-five -years, who has overlooked it hundreds of times and lives within three -miles of it as the crow flies, had never been in it when I saw him last, -and has asked me several times to guide him into it." - -Referring to an expedition from Mouvoison, which began, as do most -climbs, over grass slopes, Mr Clinton Dent remarks in _Above the Snow -Line_: - -"One ascent over a grass slope is very much like another, and -description in detail would be as wearisome as the slopes themselves -often prove. Yet it is worthy of notice that there is an art to be -acquired even in climbing grass slopes. We had more than one -opportunity on the present occasion of seeing that persons look -supremely ridiculous if they stumble about, and we noticed also that, -like a bowler when he has delivered a long hop to the off for the third -time in one over, the stumbler invariably inspects the nails in his -boots, a proceeding which deceives no one. It is quite easy to judge of -a man's real mountaineering capacity by the way in which he attacks a -steep grass slope. The unskilful person, who fancies himself perfectly -at home among the intricacies of an ice-fall, will often candidly admit -that he never can walk with well-balanced equilibrium on grass, a form -of vegetable which it might be thought in many instances of -self-sufficient mountaineers, would naturally suit them. There is often -real danger in such places, and not infrequently the wise man will -demand the use of the rope, especially when there are any tired members -among the party. There is no better way of learning how to preserve a -proper balance on a slope than by practising on declivities of moderate -steepness, and it is astonishing to find how often those who think they -have little to learn, or, still worse, that there is nothing to learn, -will find themselves in difficulties on a mountain-side, and forced to -realise that they have got themselves into a rather humiliating -position. We may have seen, before now, all of us, distinguished -cragsmen to whom an ascent of the Weisshorn or Matterhorn was but a mere -stroll, utterly pounded in botanical expeditions after Edelweiss, and -compelled to regain a position of security by very ungraceful sprawls, -or, worse still, have to resort to the unpardonable alternative of -asking for assistance." - -The following accounts of adventures on grass slopes, taken from _The -Alpine Journal_, may serve to bear out the truth of Mr Dent's remarks: - -"On Monday, 31st August, Mr J. F. C. Devas, aged 26, accompanied by a -friend, Mr A. G. Ferard, proceeded after lunch to take a stroll from the -Riffel-Haus towards the Gorner Glacier by the Thodule path. Before -reaching the glacier they returned, Mr Ferard by the ordinary route. Mr -Devas, leaving the path to the left, attempted a short cut by climbing -some wet and slippery rocks leading to a grass slope above. He reached a -difficult place, immediately below the slope, beyond which he was unable -to go. Mr Ferard made his way as speedily as possible to the grass slope -and to within a few yards of his friend. While Mr Ferard was -endeavouring to render assistance, Mr Devas, in trying to pull himself -up, lost his footing and slid down about 70 feet to a ledge covered with -turf, which it might have been hoped would have arrested his fall. -Unfortunately, the impetus was sufficient to carry him over the ledge to -a further distance of about 70 feet below. His friend hastened to the -Riffel-Haus for assistance, and a number of guides and porters, -accompanied by Mr Ferard and a French gentleman, hurried to the scene of -the accident. Mr Devas, who had sustained a severe fracture of the -skull, was brought back to the Riffel-Haus about 5 P.M., where he -received the most unremitting care from M. Seiler's staff of servants. -He was unconscious from the moment of the accident till he died at noon -of the following day." - -Another writer gives an account of an adventure on a grass slope which, -happily, had a less serious ending. He also attempted to make a short -cut. - -"I entangled myself in an adventure which, as nearly as possible, ended -in a catastrophe. Not caring to turn back, I followed a track past the -chlets of Cavrera, in hope of being able to find a direct ascent over -the steep lower ground that enclosed the head of the valley. It seemed -as I advanced that among the ledges of rock and grass at the left-hand -corner there would be access to the path above. A dubious and attenuated -track which led me up in this direction after giving evidence of design -in a few steps notched in the great gneiss slabs, vanished, leaving me -to choose between the slabs which sloped up in front and a line of -juniper bushes on the left of them. As the slabs at this spot could be -walked upon, and higher up seemed to ease off again, I kept to the rocks -without investigating the juniper belt. But walking exchanged itself for -climbing, and I continued to ascend under the impression that I should -shortly gain the inclination above. I came to a spot where I had to -raise myself on to a small rounded knob of rock with a slight effort, -there being no hand-hold above. From this vantage-ground I was able to -repeat the process, still buoyed up with the belief that the easy part -would be reached above, and to hoist myself on to the only remaining -hold in the neighbourhood--a strong tuft of grass in a sort of half -corner in the slabs--which supported one foot well, but one foot only. I -now found I could go no further. The strata inclined downwards, so that -the smooth and crackless slabs overlay one another like the slates on a -house-roof, and there was no more hold for hand or foot apparent, while -the slabs were far too steep for unsupported progression. The next -discovery was a much more alarming one; I looked below, wondered why on -earth I had come up such a place, and saw at a glance that I could not -get down again. If I fell, moreover, it would not be by the line of my -ascent, but down steeper rocks and to a lower depth. Generally in a -dilemma in climbing there is a sort of instinctive feeling that an -escape will be made at last, but now, for the first time, I was seized -with a sentiment akin to despair. One chance only remained, and that was -to take off my boots and stockings and try the slabs above. - -"The stories of extraordinary predicaments in the Alps one is apt to -receive with some incredulity. I never altogether accepted the tale of -the chamois-hunter's gashing his feet, and, needless to say, it did not -occur to me to imitate him in this particular. For the rest, I can only -promise the literal narration of circumstances _as they presented -themselves to me at the time_. It is, indeed, sufficiently sensational -without exaggeration. Well, it appeared at first impossible to take my -boots off; I was facing the rocks with one toe on the turf, and the -necessary manipulation could not be accomplished. What was to be done? -This was, perhaps, the worst moment of the whole, as far as sensation -went. However, by turning round, and planting my heel on the tuft and my -back on the rock, I found myself in a secure and tolerably comfortable -position. I now set to work and slung my boots separately round my neck -as I took them off, pocketing the socks. All was done with deliberation; -the laces were as usual untied with the button-hook in my cherished -knife, and the latter was carefully returned to my pocket with the -thought that if it went down it should be in my company. Meantime the -necessary rigidity of position had to be preserved; there was only room -in the turf for one heel, and for the point of my ice-axe, for which -there was no other possible resting-place. Its preservation, indeed, -that day was wonderful; at one time I felt a momentary temptation to -throw it down in order to better the hold with the hand, but this would -not bear a second thought. - -"I now lost no time in placing myself on the slabs. I found that I dare -not move on them in an upright position, and had to seek support with -both hands. My condition was not an enviable one, and in no direction -could an effort to proceed be made without danger. The situation was as -follows: If I could manage to advance in front, I should, eventually, -reach the more easily inclined slabs, on which I could walk; but then it -was some way. If I could cross the much shorter interval (some 15 feet) -to the right, I should reach a grass band below the rocks at the side; -but then there intervened a broad, black, glistening streak, where -waters oozed down and where to tread was fatal. Suddenly, without any -warning, I found myself going down. I remember no slip, but rather that -it was as if all hold gave way at once under the too potent force of -gravity. Anyhow I was sliding down the rocks, and that helplessly I -made, I believe, little or no attempt to obtain fresh hold; I simply -remained rigid in the position in which I was, waiting for the fatal -momentum to come which should dash me below. The instants passed, and at -each I expected the momentum to begin. I felt quite a surprise when, -instead, the sliding mass slowly pulled up and came to a stoppage. The -scales of fate had been most delicately balanced, and a hair's weight in -the right one decided that this paper should be written. Had I -floundered, like a non-swimmer out of his depth, I must have gone down; -but the first moments of despondency past the opening for action had -once for all brought with it that species of mechanical coolness which -is the happy concomitant of so many forms of habitual physical -occupation. - -[Illustration: The balloon "Stella" getting ready to start from Zermatt -for the first balloon passage of the Alps, September, 1903. - -(_P. 301._)] - -[Illustration: A bivouac in the Alps in the olden days. By the late Mr. -W. F. Donkin.] - -[Illustration: Boulder practice on an off day. - -_To face_ p 148.] - -[Illustration: The last rocks on the descent.] - -"If it be asked, what were my thoughts when I was going down, I can only -reply that they chiefly amounted to a sort of dull feeling that I was -actually in for a fall, being concentrated on waiting for its inevitable -commencement; and that there was no such terror or disagreeable -realisation of the situation as people are apt to assign to such -moments. Such realisations exist most deeply in the imaginations of the -non-combatants outside the fray. During the whole affair my attention -was mainly directed to the physical combating with difficulties, and the -passing reflections were partly indifferent, partly frivolous. A sort -of acceptance of the position, indeed, possessed me, which almost -amounted to a melancholy complacency, and, at most, perhaps, the -customary 'When I get out of this' was changed as fast as it rose up in -my imagination into a sadder 'If ever.' It was the feeling of the -gamester or the soldier surprised at last by adverse odds, intent on his -craft as at other times, but with a new and melancholy consciousness. - -"My first thought when I came to a standstill--I cannot have gone more -than a couple of feet at most--was what I could do even then, with no -more hold than before? But I placed myself again in my old position on -the tuft; and reflecting that if I had been intended to go down I should -have gone then, and almost feeling as if, having escaped that extremity -of risk, I had a sort of security for the rest, I resolved without -further hesitation to make a determined effort. I once more raised -myself on my feet and decided to make a push across the slabs to the -grass belt at all hazards; possibly, in case of slipping on the way, I -might be able to make a desperate sort of rush for it. I now found two -unevennesses in succession, which would allow the side of the foot to -rest in them with some chance of staying, while I moved my body along, -there being at no time hold for the hand. The second of these slight -hollows was fortunately in the dread bank of moisture itself. Below, -the rocks shelved away to a steep fall; in front, the grass tufts smiled -on me nearer and nearer. While I was feeling along the slabs with the -hand that held my ice-axe, the latter by chance fixed itself in a cavity -that would otherwise have escaped my notice. It was just about the size -and depth of a half-crown, and could not have been caught by the -fingers, but the rigid iron stuck in it. This was perhaps the first bit -of direct hold I had. A yard further on was another of the same size. -But now I had passed the wet rock and was nearing the grass, and -carefully launching my ice-axe, so as not to disturb my balance, I -hooked it in the grass, and in another moment had reached its hospitable -tufts. Creeping up the side, I at last found _terra firma_." - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -A NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE DENT BLANCHE - - -Mr Cecil Slingsby has kindly allowed me to extract the following -admirable account of a guideless ascent with two friends of the Dent -Blanche. It will be noticed that during a very cold night they "avoided" -their "brandy-flask like poison." When a climber is exhausted and help -is near a flask of brandy is invaluable, but when a party has to spend a -bitterly cold night in the open, it is madness to touch spirits at all. -The effect of a stimulant is to quicken the action of the heart and -drive the blood with increased rapidity to the surface. Here it is -continually cooled, and before long the heart finds it has to work -double hard to keep up the circulation. Therefore to take brandy in -order to resist the cold for hours together is like stirring up a cup of -hot fluid, whereby fresh surfaces are continually brought in contact -with the air and cooled with far greater rapidity than if left quiet. -The best companion a climber can have during a night out above the -snow-line is a small spirit-lamp. With this he can amuse and fortify -himself at intervals, melting snow and making tea or soup, which will be -of real help in enabling the party to pass without injury through the -ordeal. Doctors and climbers of experience will, I know, bear out what I -say. The truth of it was once more shown not very long ago under the -following circumstances: - -[Illustration: PROVISIONS FOR A MOUNTAIN HOTEL. By Royston Le Blond. - -_To face p. 152._] - -[Illustration: THE DENT BLANCHE FROM THE THEODULE GLACIER IN SUMMER.] - -[Illustration: AN OUTLOOK OVER ROCK AND SNOW.] - -[Illustration: THE DENT BLANCHE FROM THE SCHWARZSEE IN WINTER.] - -In August 1902 two French tourists with a guide and a porter set out to -ascend Mont Blanc. The weather became very bad, nevertheless they -pressed on, hoping to reach that veritable death-trap, the Vallot Hut. -In this they failed, and as the hour was late they took the fatal course -of digging a hole in the snow in which to pass the night. They were -provided with brandy, and, doubtless in ignorance of the results it was -sure to cause, they shared all they had. Both travellers died before -morning, and the guides then attempted to descend to Chamonix. They seem -to have been dazed, and to have lost their heads, and within a few -minutes of each other each fell into a crevasse. The porter was killed -on the spot, the guide was rescued, but little injured, after six hours' -imprisonment. - -Will people ever realise that Mont Blanc, by reason of the very facility -by which it may be ascended, is the most dangerous mountain a beginner -can ascend? He is almost certain to chance on incompetent guides, and -these, if the weather becomes bad, have not the moral force--indeed a -first-class man would have something even more compelling--to insist on -an immediate return. The size of the mountain is so great that to be -lost on it is a risk a really good guide would simply refuse to face. - -To turn now to Mr Slingsby's narrative. His party had reached the -_arte_ of the Dent Blanche without incident, and he writes: - -"The rocks on the crest of the ridge were in perfect order. The day was -magnificent, and there was not the remotest sign of a storm. Climbers -who were on neighbouring mountains on this day all speak of the fine -weather. My friend, Mr Eric Greenwood, who was on the Rothhorn, told me -that that peak was in capital condition, but that there was a strong -N.W. wind blowing at the top. We had perfect calm. Mr Greenwood stopped -on the snow _arte_ till a late hour in the afternoon, taking -photographs, and neither his guides nor he had the slightest expectation -of a thunderstorm. - -"We stuck faithfully to the ridge, and climbed up, and as nearly as -possible over, each point as we reached it, because of the ice which -shrouded the rocks almost everywhere on the west face. - -"We were forced on to the face of one little pinnacle, and had to use -the greatest care. - -"Nowhere did we come to any place where we felt that our powers were -overtaxed; still, the work was difficult, though not supremely so. - -"A few days later I met Mr Conway at Breuil, and I asked him what he -meant in this case by the term, 'following the _arte_.' His -interpretation, which is rather an elastic one, is this: 'Climb over the -pinnacles if it is convenient to do so. If not convenient, shirk them by -passing below their western bases.' This latter method was most probably -impracticable on the occasion of our ascent, which fully accounts for -the great difference between Mr Conway's 'times' and our own, as we -certainly climbed at least as quickly as an average party on the Dent -Blanche during the whole of our ascent. - -"The time sped merrily and quickly by, and the difficulties decreased as -we hastened onward. Just as we left the last rocks a light filmy cloud, -sailing up from the north, hovered for an instant over the top of the -mountain, and then settled upon it; otherwise, though it had then become -exceedingly cold, the sky was clear and the day perfect, and we could -not help comparing our good fortune with that of those early climbers -who fought their way upwards, step by step, against most ferocious -gales. - -"After some tiring step-cutting on the gentler slopes above the rocks, -which, like the west face, were sheathed in ice, we reached at last the -south end of the little flat ridge which forms the summit of the Dent -Blanche, where a small flagstaff is usually to be seen. Here there was -an enormous snow cornice which overhung the eastern side. The little -cloud merely clung to the cornice on the ridge, and evidently had no -malice in it at all. None of us put down the time at which we reached -the top. One of us thinks that it was just after four o'clock, but the -memory of the two others is clear that it was between three and four; at -any rate, of this we are all agreed, that it was not so late as 4.12, -the hour when the author of _Scrambles in the Alps_ reached the summit -in bad weather. My watch, being out of order, was left at Zermatt. - -"We left directly, and in less than a minute were out of the little -cloud, which was uncommonly cold, and again we revelled in bright -sunshine. We were under no apprehension of danger, nor had we any reason -whatever to be anxious, as our way was clear enough: there was no doubt -about that. We were in capital training, and we had, most certainly, a -sufficiency of daylight still left to allow us to get well beyond every -difficulty upon the mountain. Moreover, Solly, with his usual -instinctive thoughtfulness, carried a lantern in his pocket, and we had -left another lower down. Thus we had a most reasonable expectation of -reaching the Stockje that evening, and Zermatt early the next morning. - -[Illustration: The hut on the Col de Bertol, where climbers now often -sleep for the ascent of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: A party ascending the Aiguilles Rouges (Arolla). The -people can be seen on the sky-line to the left, at the top of the white -streak. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: The summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: Cornice on the summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard -Rawlence. - -_To face p. 156._] - -"When we had come down for about an hour, we saw an occasional flash of -lightning playing about the Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla. This was the -first indication that we had of foul weather. Soon afterwards a dark -cloud crept up ominously over the shoulder of Mont Collon, and on to the -Pigne d'Arolla. Still no cloud seemed to threaten us, but we hurried on -very quickly. - -"On arriving at the col, just above the great rock tower, we turned down -a little gully on the west face. Here, though the work was exceedingly -difficult, we lost no time whatever, and undoubtedly we chose the best -route. The storm, meanwhile, had crossed over the east Arolla ridge, and -we saw the lightning flashing about the Aiguille de la Za and Dent -Perroc, and the clouds, as they advanced, grew more and more angry -looking. - -"We were advancing as quickly as the nature of the ground would allow on -a buttress which supports the great tower on the west. It was then about -six o'clock. We had, at the most, only 150 feet of difficult ground to -get over, when a dark and dense cloud fell upon us, and it became, -suddenly and almost without any warning, prematurely dark. Our axes -emitted electric sparks, or rather faint but steady little flames, on -both the adze and pick part; so also did our gloves, the hair of which -stood out quite straight. A handkerchief, which I had tied over my hat, -was like a tiara of light. This was very uncanny, but still deeply -interesting. The sparks, when touched by the bare hand or the cheek, -gave out no heat. There was no hissing to be heard on our axes or on the -rocks, but Solly felt a sort of vibration about the spectacles which -were on his forehead that he did not at all like, so he put them under -his hat. - -"Under ordinary circumstances we should have put away our axes until the -storm should had passed away. Of course we did not do this, nor indeed -would any other member of the Alpine Club have done so if he had had the -good fortune to be with us. We wished to get across the 150 feet which -was the only difficulty yet remaining before us. Each one of us was -quite capable of undertaking the work, and, in spite of the unusual -darkness, we had sufficient light for the purpose. - -"Solly was leading across a difficult bit of rock, and clearing away the -ice; Haskett-Smith was paying out the rope as required; I was perched -firmly at the bottom end of a narrow and steep ledge round the corner of -a crag above them with the rope firmly hitched. We were all working -steadily and most carefully, and hoped in a few minutes to clear our -last difficulty. All at once the whole mountain side seemed to be -ablaze, and at the same time there was a muzzled, muffled, or suppressed -peal of thunder, apparently coming out of the interior of the -mountain--so much so that, if a great crevice had been opened in the -rocks and fire had burst out from it, we should hardly have been more -surprised than we were. Solly and Haskett-Smith each exclaimed, 'My axe -was struck,' and each of them, naturally enough, let his axe go. Where -to none knew. Solly, describing this, says, 'At the moment I was -standing with my face towards the mountain, with my right arm stretched -out, feeling for a firm foothold with my axe, which I held just under -its head. For perhaps a minute the lightning was coming very fast; then -came the noise, and I saw a curve of flame on the head of my axe. I -involuntarily let it go. The whole place seemed one blaze of light, and -I could distinguish nothing. The thought that rushed through my mind -was--Am I blinded? the intensity of the light was so terrible. It is -difficult to put such events in any order of time; but I think the noise -or explosion came first, before the blaze of light, and the light seemed -to flicker as if a series of flashes were coming. I hardly know whether -my body or any part of my clothing was actually struck. My axe certainly -was, and I think the rocks just by me were.' - -"Haskett-Smith said that his neck was burnt, and we saw later that a -dark-brown band, an inch and a quarter wide, had been burnt exactly half -way round his neck. I was untouched. All the sparks disappeared with -the flash. - -"Now the matter was serious enough, as we had only one axe, and we felt -that we had had a most providential escape. There is little doubt that, -if this had occurred upon the crest of the ridge above us, the electric -current would have been much stronger, and the consequences much worse. - -"My two companions then climbed up to the little ledge where I was -sitting, to wait at least until the storm should pass away. Whilst Solly -was doing this, a tremendous gust of wind swept up from the N.W., and -nearly carried him off his feet. - -"The storm lasted much longer than we expected it to do, and by the time -it had vanished it was quite dark. All climbers will readily agree with -me when I say that the storm, seen from such a point of view, where the -mountain forms are so wild, and their guardian glaciers so vast and -glittering, was indescribably grand--so much so that, even under our -circumstances, there was a kind of grim enjoyment which we could not -help feeling. - -"I put my axe upon a higher ledge for safety's sake. When the storm had -gone by we took stock of our goods. Solly had a lantern. We each had two -shirts, scarfs, and unusually warm clothing. We had plenty of food, some -cold tea, and a flask of brandy. We knew well that we must stop where we -were until morning. It was hard luck certainly, as there was only one -narrow prison moat between us and freedom. Once over these 150 feet, we -could have reached the Stockje by lantern light. Of this I am certain. -But no man living could cross the moat except in daylight. - -"Haskett-Smith, who is a marvellous man for making all sort of hitches, -knots, and nooses, managed to get a capital hitch for our rope, and -lashed us to the rock most skilfully. The ledge was steep, and varied -from 1 to 2 feet wide. As we could not sit back to back, which is the -best plan when possible, we did the next best thing, and sat, squatted, -or leaned, face to back. Solly, who sat at the bottom, had a loose piece -of friable rock which supported one foot. I was in the middle, with my -knees up to my chin, on a steep slope, but was supported by Solly's back -and by a singularly sharp little stone on which I squatted. -Haskett-Smith leaned with his back against a corner, and with his knees -against my back. Each of us had a rcksack, which helped to keep out the -cold. We made a good meal of potted meat, bread, chocolate, and an -orange, and left a box of sardines and other food for the morning. - -"Several short but heavy snow and hail showers fell after the -thunderstorm had subsided, but we were thankful that there was no rain. -The wind got up too, and whistled wildly through the crags above us. -Fortunately, a screen of rock above our ledge partly sheltered us. We -faced a grim and grisly little pinnacle on the west face of the -mountain, which became, hour after hour, if possible, more ghostly. How -we did hate it, to be sure. A light in a chlet near Ferpcle shone like -a beacon for some hours, which was a pleasant contrast to the near view -of the ghost, but it seemed to be a terribly long way off. We kept up -our spirits capitally, and from previous experience I, at least, knew -how thankful we ought to be that no member of our party was of a -pessimistic turn of mind. At the same time, we were fully aware how -serious the matter was, but we were determined to get well through it, -helped, we trusted, by a power not our own. - -"Our greatest trouble during the night arose from the consciousness that -Mr Schuster, Herr Seiler, and other friends at Zermatt would be very -anxious about us, and we often spoke of it with regret. - -"We were most careful to keep moving our hands and feet all the night, -and, though the temptation to indulge in sleep was very great, we denied -ourselves this luxury. After two o'clock an increased vigilance was -necessary, as the sky became clearer, and the cold much more intense. Mr -Aitkin's guides, who were then bivouacking above the Stockje, -'complained much of the cold.' We probably suffered less than they did, -as, at our great altitude, the air was doubtless much drier than below. -At the same time, gentlemen who were occupying comfortable beds in -luxurious hotels in the Vispthal thought the night was unusually warm. -Haskett-Smith imagined the whole night that Solly was another member of -the A.C., and invariably addressed him by the wrong name. This -hallucination was, no doubt, the result of the electric shock. - -"Shortly before 5 A.M. we opened our sardine-box, which was no easy -task, as our outer gloves were like iron gauntlets. We made a good meal -of petrified fish, frozen oranges, and bread. We avoided our -brandy-flask like poison on the whole expedition. - -"We soon discovered the lost axes below us, half embedded in hard snow. -Then we began to move. Solly took my axe, and with much difficulty, and -at the expense of a good deal of time, cut down to and recovered one of -the missing ones. We found, however, that it was then far too cold, and -we were too benumbed to work safely, so we returned to our ledge again -until eight o'clock. Long before this hour the ghostly pinnacle was -gilded by the morning sun, and, if possible, we hated it more than ever, -as no warm rays could reach the place where we were for hours to come. -On telling several of the leading guides in Zermatt about waiting until -eight o'clock on the ledge, they all said that it was quite early -enough for us to move after spending a night out in the cold, and that -they had done exactly the same under similar circumstances. We were sure -we were right; still their testimony is valuable. Messrs Kennedy and -Hardy, when they had their 'Night Adventure on the Bristenstock,' say -they were 'obliged to stamp about for some twenty minutes in order to -restore circulation, or we should not have had sufficient steadiness to -have continued our descent in safety.' Well, these gentlemen had neither -waistcoats nor neckties, and had only a lump of bread and one bottle of -wine. We were at least well fed and warmly clad, but we had no room to -stamp about. Having now two axes, we were able to work again with -renewed confidence in our powers. We saw the third axe lying half -imbedded in the snow a long way below us, and about a rope's length from -some firm rocks. The hail and snow, which had partly covered the rocks, -increased the difficulty, and the ice in which we had to cut steps was -unusually hard. In fact, our 150 feet were gained with much difficulty, -and, by the exercise of great caution and severe labour, at last, after -much time and manoeuvring, we recovered the third axe, and were indeed -happy. - -"Two minutes later we stood in bright sunshine, and such was its -invigorating power that in ten minutes all our stiffness had vanished. -My hat blew off here, and rolled on its stiffened brim at a tremendous -pace down a couloir of ice. Fortunately, I had a woollen helmet which -Miss Richardson had knitted for me. We hastened on very quickly in order -to relieve, as soon as possible, the anxiety which we well knew our -friends at Zermatt were enduring. - -"When on the snow ridge between points 3912 mtres and 3729 mtres we -heard voices far below us on the west, and soon saw what we knew -afterwards to be Mr Aitkin, Imboden, and a porter. They had abandoned -their intention of climbing the Dent Blanche 'on account of bad -weather.' Indeed, Miss Richardson, who had spent the night at the -Stockje, was told by Imboden that 'in such weather it would be -impossible, and probably would remain so for a day or two; therefore, -they might as well go to Ferpcle and do another col the next day.' - -"Seeing that the party were above the route to Ferpcle, we knew at once -that they were looking for us. Imboden shouted out to us, 'Where do you -come from?' We pointed to the Dent Blanche, and they immediately turned -towards Zermatt, and we only missed them by about five minutes at the -usual breakfast place. - -"Now, as we knew that there was no need for us to hurry, we rested, and -made a most hearty breakfast, as we had left on the rocks a whole -chicken, some ham, bread, plums, and a bottle of white wine. - -"On crossing the glacier to the Wandfluh rocks our axes and rcksacks -hissed like serpents for a long time, while we saw in the distance the -storm which overtook Mr Macdonald on the Lyskamm that very morning; and -none of us liked the renewal of electric energy, which may well be -believed. A heavy mist also threatened us. Mr Aitkin had a similar -experience to ours. - -"We descended by way of the Wandfluh, and above the Stockje untied the -rope which we had had on for thirty-eight hours; and such is the virtue -of the Alpine knot that we were as firmly tied at the end of this time -as we were when we first put on the rope. - -"On the Zmutt Glacier we bathed our hands repeatedly in the glacier -pools as a safeguard against possible frost-bites with entirely -satisfactory results. On the glacier we were delighted to meet Mr E. T. -Hartley, who welcomed us most warmly, and told us of the anxiety of our -friends; he, however, and one good lady in Zermatt said all the time -that we should return safe and sound again. Just off the glacier we met -three porters provided with blankets and provisions sent by the kind -thoughtfulness of Mr Schuster and Herr Seiler. - -"We rested at the Staffel Alp, where we had some most refreshing tea, -and reached Zermatt in the evening." - - - - -CHAPTER X - -ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE - - -I am indebted to Mr Harold Spender, the author of a fine description of -the accident in 1899 on the Dent Blanche, for permission to reprint the -greater portion of it, and also to the proprietors of _McClure's -Magazine_ and of _The Strand Magazine_, in which publications it first -appeared. The safe return of one of the party is alluded to in _The -Alpine Journal_ as one of the most wonderful escapes in the whole annals -of mountaineering. - -"Mr F. W. Hill, whose narrative in _The Alpine Journal_ necessarily -forms the best evidence as to the incidents, says that it was Glynne -Jones who wanted to climb the Dent Blanche by its western _arte_--a -notably difficult undertaking, and one that has probably only twice been -achieved. - -"Glynne Jones had discussed the possibilities of the undertaking with -his own guide, Elias Furrer, of Stalden, and they had come to the -conclusion that the conditions were never likely to be more favourable -than in this August of 1899. Glynne Jones, therefore, asked Mr Hill to -accompany them, and to bring along with him his own guide, Jean -Vuignier, of Evolena. Both guides knew their climbers very well; for -Furrer had been with Glynne Jones on and off for five years, and -Vuignier had climbed at Zermatt with Hill the year before. But Mr Hill, -who had promised to take his wife to Zermatt over the Col d'Herens, -refused to go. Glynne Jones accordingly secured a second guide in -Clemens Zurbriggen, of Saas-Fe, a young member of a great climbing -clan. Vuignier, however, was so disappointed at his employer's refusal, -that Mr Hill, finding that his wife made no objection, finally consented -to join the party. Thus, with the addition of Mr Hill and his guide, the -expedition numbered five members. They left Arolla on Sunday morning, -27th August, with a porter carrying blankets. They intended to sleep on -the rocks below the _arte_. Arriving at the Bricolla chlets, a few -shepherds' huts high up the mountain, at four in the afternoon, they -changed their minds, sent the blankets down to Arolla, and slept in the -huts. - -"They started at three o'clock in the morning in two parties, the first -consisting of Furrer, Zurbriggen, and Jones, roped in that order, and -the second of Vuignier and Hill. They crossed the glacier and reached -the ridge in good time. 'It was soon very evident,' says Mr Hill in his -narrative, 'that the climbing was going to be difficult, as the rocks -were steep slabs, broken and easy occasionally, but, on the whole, far -too smooth.' Rock-climbers do not particularly care how steep a rock may -be so long as it is broken up into fissures which will give hold to the -feet and hands. In the steepest mountains of the Dolomite region, for -instance, the rocks are thus broken, and therefore mountains can be -climbed easily which, from their bases, look absolutely inaccessible. - -"As they progressed up and along the ridge the climbing became more and -more difficult. They had to go slowly and with extreme caution, and -often they were in doubt as to the best way to proceed. Sometimes, -indeed, there seemed no possible route. In these places Furrer, who -seems to have been accepted as the leader of the party, would detach -himself from the rope and go forward to find a passage. - -"On entering upon this part of the climb the two parties had joined -ropes, and were now advancing as one, and roped in this order--Furrer, -Zurbriggen, Glynne Jones, Vuignier, and Hill. - -"It is evident that between nine o'clock and ten climbing had become -exceedingly arduous. 'In two or three places,' says Mr Hill, 'the only -possible way was over an overhanging rock up which the leader had to be -pushed and the others helped from above and below.' This gives us a -graphic picture of the nature of the climb. Nothing is more fatiguing -than to climb over a rock which is in the least degree overhanging. Mr -Hill tells me that Furrer showed him his finger-tips at -breakfast-time--9 A.M.--and that they were severely cut. - -"Yet no one must imagine for an instant that the party was in the least -degree puzzled or vexed. There is nothing so exhilarating as the -conflict with danger, and it generally happens in climbing a mountain -that the party is merriest at the most difficult places. Mr Hill, -indeed, tells us that they were in the 'highest spirits.' 'Climbing -carefully,' he says, 'but in the highest spirits, we made good progress, -for at ten o'clock it was agreed we were within an hour of the summit.' -It was at this point and time that the accident occurred. - -"They had been forced below the ridge by the difficulty of the rocks, -and had come to a place where their obvious route lay up a narrow gully, -or sloping chimney. On an ordinary day it is possible that they would -have found no difficulty in going forward, but a few days before there -had been rain, and probably snow, on these high rock summits. At any -rate, the rocks were 'glazed'; covered, that is, with a film of ice, -probably snow melted and re-frozen, just sufficiently thick to adhere, -and sufficiently slippery to make the fingers 'slither' over the rocks. -If the climber cannot clear away the ice with his ice-axe, he must go -round another way, and if the rocks are steep the first course becomes -obviously impossible. That was the condition of affairs at ten o'clock -on the morning of 28th August 1899. - -"In a party of five roped together, with 30 feet of rope between each -member, the amount of space covered by the party will obviously be 40 -yards; and it frequently happens that those who are roped last cannot -see the leaders. Mr Hill, as we have seen, was roped last, and by the -time he reached the level of the other climbers Furrer had already -turned away from the gully and was attempting to climb to the ridge by -another route. To the left of the gully in front of them was a vertical -rock face stretching for about 30 feet. Beyond this was a smooth-looking -buttress some 10 feet high, by climbing which the party could regain the -ridge. When Hill came up with the rest, Furrer was already attempting to -climb this buttress. - -"But the buttress was quite smooth, and Furrer was at a loss to find a -hold. Unable to support himself, he called to Zurbriggen to place an axe -under his feet for him to stand on. In this way he might be able to -reach with his hands to the top of the buttress. There was nothing -unusual in this method of procedure. In climbing difficult rocks, when -the hand-holds are far up, it is frequently the custom to help the -climber by placing an ice-axe under his feet. But in this case Furrer -discovered that he could not climb the buttress with the help of -Zurbriggen alone, and he would probably have done more wisely if he had -abandoned the attempt. But, instead of that, he called Glynne Jones to -help Zurbriggen in holding him up. - -"'Apparently,' says Mr Hill, 'he did not feel safe, for he turned his -head and spoke to Glynne Jones, who then went to hold the axe steady.' - -"From Mr Hill's own explanations the situation was as follows: The -leading climber, Furrer, was grasping the rock face, standing on an -ice-axe held vertically by Zurbriggen and Glynne Jones. These two were -forced, in order to hold the ice-axe securely, to crouch down with their -faces to the ground, and were, therefore oblivious of what was going on -above them. But the important point is, that their four hands were -occupied in holding the ice-axe, and that as they were standing on a -narrow ledge, with a very sharp slope immediately below, these two men -were in a helpless position. They were unready to stand a shock. Thus, -at the critical moment, out of a party of five climbers, three had -virtually cast everything on a single die! - -"Mr Hill, standing level with the rest of the party, could see quite -clearly what was happening. He was about 60 feet distant from them, the -guide Vuignier being roped between them at an equal distance of some 30 -feet from each. Furrer could now stand upright on the axe, which was -firmly held by four strong hands, and could reach with his own fingers -to the top of the buttress. It was a perilous moment. It is the rule -with skilled climbers that you should never leave your foot-hold until -you have secured your hand-hold. The natural issue would have been that -Furrer, finding it impossible to secure on the smooth rock a steady grip -with his hands, should have declined to trust himself. But the science -of the study is one thing and the art of the mountain another. There are -moments when a man does not know whether he has secured a steady grip or -an unsteady, and the question can only be answered by making the -attempt. If the party blundered at all, it was in allowing the second -and third men to be so completely occupied with holding the axe that -there was no reserve of power to hold up Furrer in case of a slip. But -it is easy to speak after the event. - -"What Hill now saw was this: He saw Furrer reach his hands to the top of -the buttress, take a grip, and attempt to pull himself up. But his feet -never left the ice-axe beneath, for in the process of gripping his hands -slipped. And then, as Hill looked, Furrer's body slowly fell back. It -seemed, he has told himself, to take quite a long time falling. Furrer -fell backwards, right on to the two oblivious men beneath him, causing -them to collapse instantly, knocking them off their standing-place, and -carrying them with him in his fall from the ridge. 'All three,' says Mr -Hill in his narrative, 'fell together.' Instinctively he turned to the -wall to get a better hold of the rock, and therefore did not see the -next incident in the fatal sequence. Vuignier, as we have seen, was -standing 30 feet from the first three, and the weight of three human -bodies swinging at the end of the rope must have come directly on him. -He was, apparently, taken by surprise, and immediately pulled off the -rock. Hill heard that terrible sound--the scuffle and rattle of stones -that meant the dragging of a helpless human being into space--and he -knew, or thought he knew, that his own turn would come in a moment; but -as he clung there to the rock, waiting for the inevitable end, there was -a pause. Nothing happened. - -"After a few endless seconds of time he faced round and found himself -alone. Looking down, he saw his four companions sliding down the -precipitous slopes at a terrific rate, without a cry, but with arms -outstretched, helplessly falling into the abyss. Between him and them, -and from his waist, there hung 30 feet of rope swinging slowly to and -fro. The faithful Vuignier had probably fastened the rope securely -round some point of rock to protect his master. The full weight of the -four bodies had probably expended itself on the rock-fastening of the -rope, and thereby saved the life of the fifth climber. Dazed and -astonished to find himself still in the land of the living, Mr Hill -stood for some time watching his comrades fall, until, sickened, he -turned away to face his own situation. - -"It was not very promising. He was without food, drink, or warm -clothing. No man alone could climb down by the ridge up which those five -experts had climbed in the morning. And in front lay a difficulty which -had already destroyed his friends when attempting to overcome it by -mutual help. It seemed impossible. - -"Perhaps it was fortunate that Hill was not only a mathematician, but a -man of characteristic mathematical temperament--cool, unemotional, -long-headed. Most men in his situation would have gone mad. Some would -have waited right there till starvation overcame them or a rescue party -arrived. But there was little or no chance of a rescue party, and Mr -Hill was certainly not the man to wait for starvation. It was a curious -irony that probably at that very moment there was a party on the summit -of the Dent Blanche. Mr Hill's party had seen two climbers on the south -_arte_ at half-past eight o'clock, and again about an hour later. At -this moment they were probably at the summit. But Mr Hill had no means -of communicating with them, and the hour's climb which lay between him -and them might as well have been the length of Europe. An hour later he -himself heard a faint 'cooey' (the party were probably on the way -down)--a jovial, generous hail from men unconscious of any catastrophe. - -"Mr Hill's immediate task was to regain the ridge and reach the summit. -At the moment of the accident he was some 60 feet from the fatal -buttress, and now wisely made no attempt to get near it. Instead, he -moved to circumvent the glazed gully from its other side. After long and -tedious efforts, lasting for a period of time which he cannot now even -approximately estimate, he succeeded in his flanking movement, and -finally, with great labour and peril, climbed back to the ridge by a -slope of frozen snow and ice broken with rocks. It would be difficult to -imagine anything more terrible than this lonely climb over ice-covered -rocks, the painful cutting of steps up an almost precipitous wall, with -a precipice many thousand feet deep at his back, down which the smallest -slip would send him to certain death. But at last he regained the ridge, -and the difficulties of ascent were now mainly overcome. In about -another hour he found himself on the summit--a solitary, mournful -victor. It was there he heard the shout from the other party. But he -could not see them or make them hear, and so he made his way down with -all reasonable speed, hoping to overtake them. - -"Hill had climbed the Dent Blanche in the previous year with a guided -party, and therefore, to some extent, knew the route. Without much -difficulty he was able to follow the ridge as far as possible down to -the lowest _gendarme_, a pile of rock with a deep, narrow fissure. Then -a sudden mist hid everything from view, and it was impossible to see the -way off the _gendarme_. He tried several routes downward in the mist, -but at last wisely resolved to wait till it lifted. While he was -searching, a snow-storm and a cold wind came up. 'They drove me,' says -Mr Hill in his plain way, 'to seek shelter in the lee of the rocks.' -There he tied himself with his rope, and, to avoid the danger of falling -off in a moment of sleep, still further secured himself by an ice-axe -wedged firmly in front of him--poor protections to a man absolutely -without food or wraps, clinging to the side of an abyss in the searching -cold and stormy darkness of mist and snow, wedged under the eave of an -overhanging rock, and only able to sit in a cramped posture. But Mr Hill -was no ordinary man. If the Fates were asking for his life he determined -to sell it dearly, sustained in his resolve by the thought of that -waiting wife, unconscious of ill, below in Zermatt. - -"It must have been, at this time, past mid-day on Monday, 28th August. - -"The storm lasted all that Monday, and Monday night, and Tuesday -morning. All through those dreadful hours of darkness Hill sat in the -cleft of rock, sleeping most of the time, but always half-frozen with -the cold, and whenever he awoke obliged to beat himself to regain his -natural warmth. Happily, he was well protected against the falling snow -by the eave of the overhanging rock, but it covered his knees and boots, -causing him intense cold in the feet. - -"At last, at mid-day on Tuesday, the mist cleared and the sun shone -again in a sky of perfect blue. He could now resume his descent. To -climb over snow-covered rocks in a roped party is difficult enough, but -to do it alone is to risk your life many times over. But there was no -alternative. - -"At last the rocks ended and the worst of the peril was over. He had -reached the snow _arte_, where not even the heavy fall of snow had -quite obliterated the tracks of those who had gone in front of him. -These helped him to find his way. But the steps had mostly to be recut, -and that must have been very fatiguing after his previous experiences. -The next difficulty was the lower part of the Wandfluh, a bold wall of -rock which leads down first to the Schonbuhl and then to the Zmutt -Glaciers, and which, at its base, ends in a steep precipice that can be -descended only by one gully. Here Mr Hill's memory failed him. He could -not remember which was the right gully. This was, perhaps, the most -terrible trial of all. If he could find that gully his task was almost -accomplished. The rest of the descent to Zermatt is little more than a -walk. But hour after hour passed; he descended gully after gully, only -to find himself blocked below by one precipice after another. In one of -these attempts he dropped his ice-axe, without which he could never hope -to return alive. Unless he could recover it he was a dead man. But, no, -it was not quite lost. There it lay, far below him, on the rocks. Slowly -and painfully he descended the gully to fetch it. At last he reached it. -In this quest he wasted a whole hour! - -"At last he discovered a series of chimneys to the extreme right of the -Wandfluh and leading down to the glacier. Letting himself down these -steep chimneys, he found himself at last, on Tuesday evening, on the -high moraines of the Zmutt Glacier. He must have reached the glacier -about six o'clock, but he had only the sun to reckon by. Here the steep -descent ends, and there is but a stony walk of two and a half hours down -the glacier by a path which leads to the Staffel Alp Inn. The sun set -while he was still on the moraine, and he has a vivid recollection of -seeing the red 'Alpengluh' on Monte Rosa. But as the darkness grew it -became more and more difficult to keep to the path. - -"Here at last his marvellous strength began to fail him. He had no -snow-glasses, and his eyes were suffering from the prolonged glare of -the snow. A sort of waking trance fell on him. As he stumbled forward, -over the stones of that horrible moraine, he imagined that his -companions were still alive and with him. He kept calling to them to -'come along.' 'It is getting late, you fellows,' he shouted; 'come -along.' - -"At last he was brought up by a great rock. In the darkness he had -wandered below the path. The rock entirely barred his way. He had a -vague illusion that it was a chlet, and wandered round it searching for -a door. At last he settled down by it in a semi-conscious condition. -Then he must have fallen asleep, probably about ten o'clock. The sleep -lasted about twelve hours, and was better than meat and drink. To most -men it would have ended in death. - -"When he woke up at ten o'clock on Wednesday morning, in broad daylight, -he soon saw that he had been sleeping quite near the path. A few -minutes' scramble brought him back to it, and he soon came to a little -wooden refreshment-house, about an hour below the Staffel Inn, which he -had passed in the darkness. He went up to the woman at the hut and asked -for some beer! He had only fifty centimes in his pocket; one of his dead -companions had held the purse. He volunteered no complaint; but the -woman was sympathetic, and soon found out whence he came. She then gave -him a little milk and some dry bread--all she had. After a short rest he -resumed his way to Zermatt, distant about half an hour, and reached the -village at 11.30. As he was walking down the main street past the church -he met his wife. - -"He told her simply what had happened. Then he had lunch. 'I was now -ravenous,' he says, 'and devoured a beefsteak, with the help of a glass -of whisky and soda, and a bottle of champagne.' Within an hour or two he -was entirely recovered." - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -A STIRRING DAY ON THE ROSETTA - - -Amongst the many rock scrambles in the neighbourhood of St Martino in -the Dolomites of Tyrol, the Rosetta when ascended by the western face -can be counted on to awaken an interest in the most stolid of climbers. -I am indebted to the courtesy of a girl friend for the loan of her -mountaineering diary, and permission to make extracts from its very -interesting contents, of which her account of an ascent of the Rosetta -will, I feel sure, be read with keen enjoyment by climbers and -non-climbers alike. That a young English girl on her first visit to the -mountains should carry out with such success so difficult an expedition, -is much to the credit of both herself and her guides. Her brother -accompanied her, and the climb took place on 10th August 1898. - -[Illustration: AMBROSE SUPERSAX. (P. 209.)] - -[Illustration: FROM THE ROSETTA. By Signor Vittorio Sella. - -_To face_ p. 182.] - -"A cautious bang at my door, a faint 'Si!' from me, and steps departing. -Then I lit a candle and dressed. But it was the critical moment when the -dawn comes quickly, and I blew it out in five minutes and watched the -blue light brighten on the dusky outlines of the white church and -houses. The Cimone was growing pink as I got on my heavy hob-nailed -boots, and, taking my tennis shoes also, I tramped softly down to -breakfast. Bettega, our leading guide, was there, with his cordial smile -and hand-shake, and G---- and Tavernaro soon appeared. We were off -before long, taking with us a porter in addition to the two guides, and -G---- and I let Bettega see plainly that we thought this a little -superfluous, but later on we were glad we had him. I must admit that I -never met such good-natured and thoughtful guides, nor such excellent -ones. After passing through forest, we had to ascend up steep shingle, -and as this steepened I reeled a little, my feet being not as yet well -used to this sort of work. Bettega, however, put his hand behind him, I -crooked my fingers into his, and that gave me all the balance I needed. -Finally we crossed some snow, and sitting on a little platform under a -towering rock, we perceived that the way we were to ascend the Rosetta -would be a very different experience to the climb by the ordinary route. - -"At this point I took off my skirt, and removed my boots, putting on -tennis shoes instead. The rubber soles of these are far safer than nails -on the smooth and slabby Dolomite rock. - -"The guides jabbered between themselves; Bettega smiled sublimely and -looked utterly in his element, but Tavernaro seemed rather subdued; he -is under the moral influence of Bettega, for though Tavernaro may have -more education and cleverness he rounds upon his comrade at times owing -to his excitable disposition. But on the mountains he slinks at -Bettega's elbow, as the two roll along with the peculiar mountaineer's -bending stride on level ground, and Tavernaro never asks a price or -arranges for an excursion without consulting Bettega. But, on the other -hand, Bettega lives in fear of Tavernaro's lively tongue, so it is about -balanced! - -"Having finished our meal, we set off. I was roped to Bettega, who led. -After about five minutes Bettega, who till then had held in his hand all -the rope we were not using, dropped it in a big coil, and told me to -'Remain firm' where I was. He then climbed upwards for a few minutes, -but I did not watch, for though my head had not swum at all as yet, I -wasn't too sure of it, and the rock face was very sheer, so I neither -looked up nor down, but sat with my cheek against the rock and held on! -But all went merrily. Tavernaro occasionally placed one of my feet, -which was placeless, and we got up the first _camino_, or rocky chimney, -fairly well. 'Wait a moment, signorina,' said Bettega, and then he -disappeared overhead--literally disappeared, for he was quite hidden -when he cried cheerily, 'Come! Come!' I got up, and found a very small -_posto_ or tiny platform on which to wait, with a disagreeably obtrusive -precipice below it. Above was a second _camino_, which looked smooth and -gloomy. I leant affectionately against the rock, pondering deeply of -anything except 'empty space.' 'The signorina is all right there?' -enquired Bettega solicitously. 'To be sure she is!' cried Tavernaro -gaily, as he leant over me against the rock. Then up clomb Bettega, and -G---- advanced slowly and surely from below. As the minutes went by I -shut my eyes, and was gloomily thankful when the summons came from -above. Looking up, I could just see Bettega's bushy black head and -flannel cap couched amongst the rocks. Fifteen feet up the _camino_ a -big stone was wedged, and between this and the back of the chimney one -had to pass, emerging above at the top of the wall. G---- having now -reached the _posto_, I began to go up, with Tavernaro closely following -me. Bit by bit I climbed; a grab, a hoist, a foot tucked into a crevice -on either side of the _camino_, a long reach with my arm, a steady -pull--and likewise, it must be confessed, a pull from the rope!--and so -up, up again. The rock wall was abominably straight and holeless. Under -the stone, with the three members placed on ledges or in cracks, I in -vain sought a point of rest for the fourth before hauling. 'Good -heavens!' I exclaimed in melancholy undertones, and a gurgling chuckle -from below showed that Tavernaro sympathised. 'Here you are, signorina,' -he said, giving me his shoulder for a momentary foot-hold. With that -instant of support I swung up on to the stone, and so to the next _posto -sicuro_, or safe spot. G---- came up without help, but he assured me -that it was a really hard place. - -"Of course I don't pretend I did it all myself. Quite half a dozen times -I doubt if I could have got up without material aid from the cord, or -from Tavernaro below. Once, in a _camino_, the latter gave me a butt -with his head, which made me reflect how great a man was lost to the -game of football, while the way he placed my feet was a great help to -one who, as a novice, had not yet learnt to study the foot-holds in -advance. - -"We now reached a place where a third _camino_ ran up above us, while an -awkward traverse led to another on the right. Here I heard Tavernaro -remonstrate with Bettega on the route he had taken, but the latter said, -very decidedly, that he intended going straight on, so Tavernaro, as -usual, subsided, but became very quiet. He had never before ascended -this _camino_, which was a discovery of Bettega's, but no doubt he had -heard about it. - -"We began to climb it, Bettega first and I following him closely. It -had rained heavily the previous day, and all the loose stones had been -washed to the very edge of the ledges. Not having been cautioned about -these, and intent on getting up, I let several fall. 'Hi! Gently with -the stones!' gasped Tavernaro from below, and when he reached my side I -saw that his knuckles were bleeding. 'Have you hurt yourself?' I -enquired. 'No, it is you who have done it, and you've twice nearly -killed your brother,' he replied, but G---- told me to tell Tavernaro he -had sent down a much worse stone than any of mine, whereat he looked -resigned, and remarked, 'Oh, yes, these things can't always be avoided.' - -"'Stay quietly where you are, and wait till I tell you to come on,' -Bettega now remarked. I crouched in a very narrow chimney for a little, -watched not--a hundred pities--and heard Bettega go up beyond. Not more -than three minutes elapsed before his deep voice sang out: 'Now, come -up!' and though I replied: 'I'm coming,' I wondered how I was to do it. -We were near the top of the chimney. Further up, it became too narrow -for any human form to squeeze into. One had therefore to come out of it -to the right and climb up and over a huge bulging mass of rock about 15 -feet high, which overhung the precipice. This mass of gently bulging -rock was worn smooth by rain and stones. There was no proper foot-hold, -hardly the tiniest crack. _How_ had Bettega managed it? I got up the -cold, damp chimney as far as I could, leant gasping against the rock, -and felt near the end of my courage. Tavernaro was stowed away yards -below, G---- also out of sight, Bettega invisible above. There was just -the cord, pulling me away from the inhospitable rocks, and at my very -heels an abyss of 2000 feet. I made one bold grab on the smooth wall, -but speedily retired to the end of the _camino_, and feebly yelled, -'Wait! Ah, I can't do it!' 'All right! Catch hold of this cord!' came -the answer, and a loop of rope was let slowly down. I seized it, -contrived to get one foot on to a tiny, weeny point, came out of the -chimney, and heard Bettega call, 'To the right, signorina!' 'To the -right; that's all very well!' I muttered fiercely, and felt my hand -slipping; my foot gave, my fingers ran down the rope, the cord round my -waist tightened, I pushed my arm through the loop of the free rope with -one last effort, and then finding no support of any kind for my feet, -was ignominiously pulled, kicking, up the precipice by Bettega, who, -firmly fixed with both feet against rocks, hauled me up most joyously -hand over hand. - -"'But, Michele, how did _you_ manage to get up?' I panted, as I sank on -a ledge, and gazed in awed admiration at him. 'Well, not like that, -signorina!' he said, with his honest laugh; 'I really came up by -pressure. There are no hand-grips, so you have to do without.' 'It's -marvellous! It's stupendous!' murmured I, really awed by the man's -power. Then we both listened for Tavernaro's coming, and a proper little -comedy, for us two at least, ensued. Of course one could see nothing, -the rock bulged too much, but one could hear Tavernaro's voice some 20 -feet below, as he groped about, swearing softly. Five minutes went by -and all was still, so Bettega began haranguing him. 'More to the right, -Tony; you must come out, don't go too high in the chimney!' Then--'Look -out, Tony, I'll send you the rope-end!' But an ominous '_No_,' quickly -answered this proposal. A guide's honour is very sensitive on this -point. Another three or four minutes passed. 'How is Tavernaro getting -on?' I whispered, and Bettega replied, smiling broadly, 'He wishes to -try.' - -"Some gasps from the direction of the chimney were now heard, and -Bettega again expostulated gently. 'Look here, Tony, we are old friends; -take the rope!' '_No_' in gloomy defiance. 'Oh, if we were alone it -would be different, but we must not keep the rest of the party waiting, -and the signorina may take cold.' This was all in _patois_, but I caught -some of it, and here struck in quickly, 'Oh, not at all!' Bettega looked -surprised, and resumed more energetically his exhortations to Tony to -pocket his pride and accept the loop of rope. At last Tony, who must -have been within 10 feet of the top and so at the worst spot, suddenly -jerked on to the proffered cord, and was up the next moment, hatless, -with huge beads of sweat on his forehead and his black hair as straight -as matches. There was a great rent in the side of one of his hands, -which bled profusely. What struck me most, however, was the expression -of suffering and shaken confidence on his face. Tavernaro ranks only -second to Bettega and Zecchini, and was asked to go to the Caucasus and -other distant mountains. He just stumbled to a safe spot, wrung his left -hand, and panted out, 'Jesu Maria! it was cruel!' I fear that Bettega's -smile was more triumphant than sympathetic. Nevertheless, he enquired -kindly for Tavernaro's hand, but for fully two minutes the latter's -loquaciousness was lost. The look of anguish on his face meant, I think, -that he had seen death pretty near to him. He told us that he went far -too much into the crack on the left, and had remained sticking in it -till his hands got so cold he feared he would lose his grip. If he had, -he was lost, and probably G---- also, so he had actually held on with his -head and left his cap jammed in the crack. I called to G---- to hook the -rope over a point of rock in case Tavernaro fell, and this he had done, -but even so the frightful jerk might have torn him down, and in any -case Tavernaro must have been either killed or frightfully hurt, as he -had, I should think, about 30 feet of rope out. - -"While I was in the throes of the difficult part, Papa's cap fell off my -head, but Tavernaro caught it and brought it up. He was in an awful -state of mind about his own cap, which had his guide's badge, etc., on -it, and begged me to call down to my brother about it. I did so, but -G---- replied several times with some asperity that he had enough to do -to get himself up. 'Why can't he bring it up in his mouth?' cried -Tavernaro excitedly, and, in the end, G---- brought it in his belt. - -"My opinion is that both G---- and Tavernaro ran a great risk, and that -Tavernaro was fully aware of it, and, for a few minutes after, was not a -little shaken. - -"After half an hour at this notable spot Bettega resumed the ascent. 'I -hope we shall have nothing more so difficult,' I said eagerly, and -Bettega replied soothingly that it became 'much less arduous,' but the -chimney we were now in was gloomy and slippery, at best very sheer. The -guides had resumed their coats, which they had taken off for the bad -bit. At the end of the chimney we came to a high overhanging wall, at -the foot of which Tavernaro and I reposed, while Bettega climbed over it -and disappeared. 'Come!' and I rose wearily. Bettega kept that cord -very tight on me, and it certainly, as Tavernaro afterwards said, -inclined to pull me to the right, away from the best holds, for the wall -was comparatively easy, though perpendicular, and I ought not to have -swung out quite free from it! But that is what I did. As I rose from the -second grip with the right hand, my muscles suddenly relaxed, I lost -hold, gave a sigh to signify 'It's no good!' and swung clear out, -dangling over 2000 feet of precipice on a single cord which nearly cut -me in two. G---- and Tavernaro were much excited below, suddenly seeing -me appear hurtling overhead. Of course, in a moment, I swung in again, -grabbed afresh, and with terrific tightening of the rope from Bettega, -got up in no time. As I swung in the air, I remember G----, in a -curiously calm voice, asking, 'Are you all right?' and Tavernaro crying, -'Don't be afraid, signorina, it's all right!' - -"Five minutes later we left the huge iron walls of rock, and emerged -suddenly on to the flat. Here one realised what breadth and width meant, -as opposed to height and profundity. In two seconds Bettega and I romped -to the top, where the cairn of stones marking the highest point rose, -and shaking hands heartily I gasped with intense feeling, 'O Michele, -how grateful I am to you! Twice to-day I owe you my life!' a debt he -utterly disclaimed, remarking that whatever he had done was merely in -the day's work, and that on him rested the responsibility of bringing us -up that way; as of course it did. Our porter was waiting for us on the -summit, and we sat down there, while Bettega and Tavernaro, still -looking impressed, knelt attentively to take off our light shoes and put -on our nailed boots instead." - -The party descended by the ordinary route, a pleasant change after all -the difficult work they had accomplished during the upward climb. - -The foregoing account gives what is rare amongst the descriptions -beginners usually furnish of anything particularly hard they may have -undertaken, for the writer has obviously jotted down, within a few hours -of her return, an exact impression of how things struck her during the -day. It is refreshing to find some one who admits that at certain points -her courage nearly gave out, and at others that her guide had to assist -her with the rope, for we know that while the very best climbers have -had to train their nerves and muscles before they became what they are, -some of the very worst are most ready to exclaim that they never felt -fear or accepted assistance, and that a certain mountain up which they -were heaved like sacks of corn and let down like buckets in a well is "a -perfect swindle; any fool could go up it!" Unluckily, every fool does, -and each one prepares the way for an appallingly increasing death-roll. - -The ascent of the Rosetta by the western face must not be condemned as -an imprudent expedition on the occasion just mentioned. True, there was -a novice in the party, but she was the only inexperienced member of it. -They had ample guiding power, they were properly equipped, and they had -good weather. Tavernaro had an offer of help at the critical moment, and -availed himself of it when he saw there was real danger. It will be -noticed that the four climbers were on two separate ropes. This is usual -in the Dolomites, but the majority of experienced mountaineers condemn -the practice even on rocks, while on snow it is positive madness. It was -owing to this, that, as related in the foregoing narrative, the lady's -brother and Tavernaro ran a greater risk than was at all necessary. - -[Illustration: A CLIMBING PARTY STARTING FROM ZERMATT FOR THE HUT.] - -[Illustration: THE TRIFT HOTEL.] - -[Illustration: THE GANDEGG HUT, NEAR ZERMATT.] - -[Illustration: THE ZINAL ROTHHORN (to the right) FROM THE TRIFT VALLEY. - -_To face p. 195._] - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -THE ZINAL ROTHHORN TWICE IN ONE DAY - - -Ignorance of what the future has in store is often not a bad thing. Had -I realised that at the hour when we ought to have been at Zinal we -should be sitting--and for the second time in one day--on the top of the -Rothhorn, we should hardly have set out in so light-hearted a fashion -from the little inn in the Trift Valley, above Zermatt, at 4 A.M. on -14th September 1895. - -The party consisted of my two guides, Joseph and Roman Imboden, father -and son, and myself, and our idea was to cross the fine peak of the -Rothhorn, 13,855 feet high, from Zermatt to Zinal. I had been up that -mountain before, and so, on many previous occasions, had Imboden, but, -oddly enough, he had never been down the other side. Roman, however, had -once or twice made the traverse, and, in any case, we knew quite enough -about the route from hearsay to feel sure we could hit it off even -without Roman's experience. - -Some fresh snow had fallen a few days previously, and the slabby part -of the Rothhorn on the north side was unpleasantly white, besides which -there was a strong and bitterly cold wind. We pretty well abandoned all -idea of getting down on the other side when we saw how unfavourably -things were turning out, and though I felt greatly disappointed I never -have and never would urge a guide in whom I have confidence to undertake -what he considers imprudent. We left the matter open till the last -minute, however, and took both the knapsacks to the top, where we -arrived at 9.15. - -Warming ourselves in a sunny and sheltered corner of the by no means -inhospitable summit, we had some food and a pleasant rest. I cannot say -if the meal and the cheering effects of the sunshine made things look -different, but it is a fact that after, perhaps, an hour's halt, Imboden -shouldered his knapsack and remarked to me, "Come along, ma'am, as far -as the end of the ridge; we will just have a look." Hope awakened in me, -and scrambling to my feet I followed him. The wind was certainly high; I -had difficulty even on those easy rocks in keeping my footing; how, I -wondered, should we manage when the real climbing began? I had read of -an _arte_ of rock, little broader than one of the blunt knives we had -used at breakfast, and the idea of passing along it with a shrieking -gale trying to tear us from our perch was not alluring. Presently we -reached the spot where one quits the gentle slope and comparatively -broad ridge, and embarks on the profile of a slender and precipitous -face of rock, with nearly vertical forehead and small and infrequent -cracks for hands and feet. We were going to do more than look at it, -apparently; we were about to descend it, for without any further remark -Imboden began to get ready, letting Roman pass ahead. Taking hold of the -rope between his son and himself he told me to stand aside while he -gradually paid it out as Roman went down. The first yard or two -consisted of slabs, set at a high angle. Then the ridge abruptly curved -over and one saw nothing but air till the eye rested on the glacier -thousands of feet below. In a few minutes Roman had disappeared, and the -steady paying out of the rope alone indicated that he was climbing -downwards. After a time he reached almost the end of his tether of about -30 feet--for we were on a very long rope--and his father called out, -"Rope up!" "Let the lady come to the edge and give me a little more," -came a voice from far down. Putting the final loop into my hand and -bidding me sit down, Imboden held me hard by the cord behind until the -tautness of the piece between Roman and me showed it was time to be -moving. I then advanced very cautiously to what seemed like the edge of -the world. Turning round with my face to the rock I had my first glance -below. Far down was the top of Roman's hat, and as he saw the advancing -soles of my boots he grinned with appreciation, feeling that now we -really were embarked on the enterprise. "There's a good place down here, -ma'am, come along!" he called up, with one toe on a ledge 3 inches wide, -two fingers thrust into a crack, and the rope held out of his way by -being put, the remark concluded, between his teeth. I had no doubt it -was a nice place when one got there, but meanwhile I had to make the -best use I could of my eyes to find a suitable assortment of hand-and -foot-holes. Soon I, too, was clinging to the face of the precipice, and -Imboden was left above out of sight and before long almost out of -hearing. The wind here was far less trying as we were sheltered by the -topmost pinnacle of the mountain. To me the feeling of danger from a -gale on a rock peak is due even more to the difficulty of hearing what -one's companions are saying than to the risk of one's balance being -upset. It is extremely disconcerting, when a climber, descending steep -rocks and anxious to make a long but perhaps an easy step downwards to -good foot-hold, calls for more rope, and is promptly swung clear out -into space by an invisible guide above, who has misunderstood his -orders. When a party is accustomed to work together, this sort of thing -seldom happens, still it makes all the difference in the pleasure of -negotiating difficult rocks if the air is calm. - -Our only trouble now was owing to the fresh snow, but this had partially -consolidated, and we got down steadily and safely, gradually leaving -behind the cold wind which whistled amongst the crags above. - -It was early in the day, and we went slowly, stopping once or twice to -photograph where warm and sheltered resting-places of comfortable -proportions tempted us to linger. The rocky knife edge was unpleasantly -sharp for the arms bent over it, but useful ledges down the side helped -to distribute the weight and amuse and occupy the mind. When finally we -reached the end of the rocks, and had nothing but snow between us and -the Mountet Hut, we considered ourselves as good as there, and made a -long halt on the last stones. - -We were wrong, however. "My boy, I will go ahead now," remarked Imboden, -stepping off into the snow. He went a few paces, and then looked first -all round him and lastly at us. "_Blue ice!_" he muttered, with intense -disgust. "Blue ice right down to the bottom!" We shrugged our shoulders; -Imboden was ahead doing the work; we could afford to be philosophical. I -should not like to say how many strokes of the axe each step required, -but the slope was steep, a slip could not be risked, and Imboden hewed -out great foot-holds in the slippery wall. After this had gone on for -some time he paused. "Upon my word," remarked he, "it will take us the -rest of the day to get down at this rate! I shall try another way." So -we turned and remounted the slope, and sitting down once more on the -stones, Imboden traced out a possible route down the face of the -mountain, bearing diagonally across it. It looked dullish; besides, -thought I, after all, we don't particularly want to go to Zinal. Roman -put into words what, I think, sprung simultaneously into both our minds. -"Let us go back to Zermatt over the top of the Rothhorn again!" "Yes, -let us do that!" I exclaimed. Imboden gazed from one to the other of us -in amazement. "Go back over the top of the Rothhorn?" he repeated. "Why, -we should simply be out all night!" Roman didn't answer, but his eyes -wandered persistently up the _arte_. His father now began to calculate, -and by some strange process of arithmetic he came to the conclusion that -if we hurried very much it was just possible that we might get off the -difficult part of the peak before night overtook us. Still, he was far -from reconciled to the idea, while every moment Roman and I liked it -better. Imboden saw how keen we were, and presently exclaimed: "Well, -I'll go if you both want it, but we must be quick; if we spend the night -on the top of the Rothhorn and a storm comes on, we may simply lose our -lives!" There was no need however, to tell Roman to be quick. He was -told off to lead, and I followed, with Imboden last. The memory of that -ascent has remained in my mind as a confused dream. Every scrap of my -attention was given to holding on and pulling myself upwards, never -pausing, except in the very worst places, to see what either of the -guides was doing, and, with every foot-and hand-hold fresh in my memory, -I was full of a delightful sense of security which muscles in -first-class condition and complete absence of any sensation of fatigue -fully justified. We rose at an incredible pace, and after an hour and -twenty-five minutes of splendid exercise, we threw ourselves once more -on the flat little top of the Rothhorn. We had now only the descent by -the ordinary route between us and Zermatt, and this seemed a small -matter compared to what we had accomplished that day. - -We did not remain long on the summit, and the first part of the descent -was quickly ended. We had now reached that point on the mountain where -it is necessary to leave the ridge and go down for some distance on the -precipitous north face. This bit of the climb, always requiring great -care on account of the smoothness and steepness of the rock, was on this -occasion particularly difficult because of the powdery snow which -covered everything, and the bitterly cold wind to which here, and, -luckily for us, here only, we were exposed. The associations of these -slabs are not of a nature to reassure the timid climber. Many years ago, -in fact on the very first occasion when the Rothhorn was ascended from -the Zermatt side, a startling incident took place near this spot. The -party consisted of Messrs Dent and Passingham, with Alexander Burgener, -Ferdinand Imseng, and Franz Andermatten as guides, and they were -descending the mountain when the exciting occurrence described by Mr -Dent happened.[7] He has kindly allowed me to reprint his account. - -[Illustration: THE ZINAL ROTHHORN FROM THE BREAKFAST PLACE ON THE -WELLENKUPPE.] - -[Illustration: A STEEP FACE OF ROCK. - -_To face p. 202._] - -[Illustration: THE TOP OF A CHAMONIX AIGUILLE. By Signor Cajrati -Crivelli Mesmer] - -[Illustration: "LEADING STRINGS."] - -"Down the first portion of the steep rock slope we passed with great -caution, some of the blocks of stone being treacherously loose, or only -lightly frozen to the face. We had arrived at the most difficult part of -the whole climb, and at a rock passage which at that time we considered -was the nastiest we had ever encountered. The smooth, almost unbroken -face of the slope scarcely afforded any foot-hold, and our security -almost entirely depended on the rope we had laid down in our ascent. Had -not the rope been in position we should have varied our route, and no -doubt found a line of descent over this part much easier than the one we -actually made for, even without any help from the fixed cord. Imseng was -far below, working his way back to the _arte_, while the rest of the -party were holding on, moving but slowly, with their faces to the -mountain. Suddenly I heard a shout from above; those below glanced up at -once: a large flat slab of rock, that had afforded us good hold in -ascending, but proved now to have been only frozen in to a shallow basin -of ice, had been dislodged by the slightest touch from one of the party -above, and was sliding down straight at us. It seemed an age, though the -stone could not have had to fall more than 10 feet or so, before it -reached us. Just above me it turned its course slightly; Franz, who was -just below, more in its direct line of descent, attempted to stop the -mass, but it ground his hands against the rock and swept by straight at -Imseng. A yell from us hardly awoke him to the danger; the slab slid on -faster and faster, but just as we expected to see our guide swept away, -the rock gave a bound for the first time, and as, with a startled -expression, he flung himself against the rock face, it leapt up, and, -flying by within a few inches of his head, thundered down below. A -moment or two of silence followed, and then a modified cheer from -Imseng, as subdued as that of a 'super' welcoming a theatrical king, -announced his safety, and he looked up at us with a serious expression -on his face. Franz's escape had been a remarkably lucky one, but his -hands were badly cut about and bruised. In fact, it was a near thing for -all of us, and the mere recollection will still call up that odd sort of -thrill a man experiences on suddenly recollecting at 11 P.M. that he -ought to have dined out that evening with some very particular people. -Had not the rock turned its course just before it reached Franz, and -bounded from the face of the mountain over Imseng's head, one or more of -the party must unquestionably have been swept away. The place was rather -an exceptional one, and the rock glided a remarkably long distance -without a bound, but still the incident may serve to show that falling -stones are not a wholly imaginary danger." - -A far more serious occurrence, however, took place on the north side of -the Rothhorn in 1894, involving the loss of a life, the rest of the -party escaping in a miraculous manner. - -I take my account of the disaster from _The Alpine Journal_. - -"On 20th September an accident occurred on the Zinal Rothhorn, in which -Joseph Marie Biner, a well-known Zermatt guide, lost his life. The other -members of the party were Dr Peter Horrocks and Peter Perren, both of -whom are to be congratulated on their very narrow escape. The party had -already effected the ascent of the mountain, and were descending towards -Zermatt. On reaching the well-known _Blatte_ overlooking the Durand -Glacier, the usual precautions were observed. Biner, who was leading, -crossed the awkward slab, and planted himself firmly on the opposite -side. Perren, who was last, was standing behind and holding on to a -fair-sized rock, round which he was paying out the rope; while Dr -Horrocks crossed the slab, and Biner gradually pulled in the slack. -Suddenly, the rock in which Perren placed such confidence came out, and -bounded down the mountain side. Perren slid rapidly down the steep -rocks; Dr Horrocks, who had no foot-hold and very little hand-hold, was -jerked from his position, turning a somersault, and becoming momentarily -stunned from his head striking against the rock. The strain on the rope -was too great for Biner to withstand, and he was dragged down too. The -whole party half tumbled, half slid, down the very steep smooth rocks -for 30 feet or 40 feet, when the rope between Dr Horrocks and Perren -caught behind a projecting rock, and brought them both to a standstill. -Perren found himself landed in a small patch of soft snow some 15 feet -below the rock, which had so fortunately engaged the rope, while Dr -Horrocks, some 7 feet higher up, though at first suspended with his back -to the steep rocks, was very soon able to get more or less foot-hold. -Poor Biner had the extra length of his own rope still to fall, and, when -the strain came, the rope broke, according to one account, half-way -between him and Dr Horrocks; according to another, rather nearer to the -latter. Biner fell down on to the Durand Glacier, some 2000 feet below, -whence his mutilated body was recovered by a search party which crossed -the Trift Pass, carried the body down to Zinal, and so by road and train -brought it to Zermatt, where the funeral took place. Dr Horrocks and -Perren were rescued from their dangerous position some ten or twelve -minutes after the accident occurred, by the guides Emile Gentinetta and -Edouard Julen, who were following down the mountain with another party." - -To return to ourselves. We steadily progressed down the cold and snowy -face, with rope kept taut and paid out slowly as, one by one, we moved -lower. I need not follow our climb, which was without incident, and -while it was still daylight, we reached the snow ridge, on the stones -just below, which in ascending it is usual to pause for breakfast. We -were particularly anxious to be off the stony rocks below and to gain -the little glacier and pass over the moraine before dark, but this we -could not manage, so in spite of our lantern we wandered about on those -odious rocks for hours before we found the gully by which alone it is -possible to get off them. Our various attempts entailed the descent of -slippery chimneys leading to the top of black precipices, with nothing -to be done but scramble up again, merely to embark in other chimneys -with precisely similar consequences. I got so sick of the whole thing -that I would gladly have dozed under a rock and awaited daylight. The -guides, however, stuck to the business, and after a positive nightmare -of gullies they at last hit off the right and only one. I have seldom -felt greater satisfaction than when I stepped off those detestable rocks -on to the snow, shimmering beneath our feet in the starlight. We had now -only to cross the glacier and make our way down an exceedingly steep but -well-defined foot-path over the sharply-crested moraine. Once we had -left this behind us we had nothing more than grass-slopes between us and -the Trift Inn. As soon as we reached this final stage in our day's work, -we selected the most comfortable-looking hollow, and hanging the lantern -to an axe stuck upright in the ground, we prepared, at a somewhat -unorthodox hour and within only thirty minutes of the hotel, to enjoy a -well-earned meal. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -BENIGHTED ON A SNOW PEAK - - -In a most interesting account of a mountain adventure which, by the -courtesy of the writer, Sir H. Seymour King, I am enabled to reprint -from _The Alpine Journal_, we are once more reminded that a party of -thoroughly competent and robust mountaineers can come without evil -after-effects out of a night of great hardship which would have -undoubtedly proved fatal to ill-equipped and inexperienced amateurs and -guides, such as those accompanying Mr Burckhardt, who perished from -exposure on the Matterhorn.[8] - -After describing a previous ascent, Sir H. Seymour King goes on to say: - -"A few days later we went to Mrren, with the intention of carrying out -a long-cherished plan of mine and testing the possibility of ascending -the Silberhorn from the Roththal. Previous ascents had proved so -lengthy, necessitating, I think, in nearly every case, the passing of a -night on the rocks or the glacier, that I thought it would be highly -desirable if some shorter route could be discovered. I had an idea that -the route by the western _arte_ would prove to be the one sought for. -Unfortunately, we were delayed in making an attempt by bad weather until -the 23rd of September, which is undoubtedly too late in the year for so -difficult an expedition. - -"I left the Htel Silberhorn with Ambrose Supersax and Louis Zurbrcken -as guides, and a porter, at ten o'clock on the morning of the 23rd of -September, and followed for some distance the usual path to the Jungfrau -Hut; at length, leaving the Roththal path on the right, we struck off -into a goat track, which leads by narrow ledges round the shoulder of -the great bluffs forming the northern boundary of the Roththal. In this -way gaining the face of the alp fronting Mrren, we made our way to the -base of the 'Strahlplatten,' where we had determined to encamp for the -night. - -"The nights were already lengthening out, and where we were it was not -light before six, and it was not possible to move earlier than five; -punctually at that hour we started. We took only one knapsack with us, -leaving the rest of the things with the porter, whom we instructed to -stay where he was until he saw whether we were going to return the same -way or not, as we thought it was quite possible we might have to pass -another night at the same place. We therefore arranged with him that -when we got to a certain point on the ridge, if we intended to return, -we would wave our hats; but if we made no sign, he might pack up his -things and go home, as in that case he might understand that we had -determined either to descend from the Silberhorn across the glacier to -the Wengern Alp, or else make our way over the Jungfrau, and pass the -night in the Bergli Hut. - -"Now let me try for a moment to describe the appearance of the rock face -up which we purposed making our way on to the _arte_. From where we -were the _arte_ appeared to run nearly due east and west. At the west -it terminated in the precipices which face Mrren, and at the east with -the peak whence we had arranged to signal to our porter. From this peak -a ridge descended towards the valley bounding the side facing us. On -that side the rock face itself was divided into two compartments by a -well-marked ridge running down the middle, giving the appearance of two -couloirs leading to the _arte_; the whole side was composed of -extremely smooth rocks, with very little foot-hold or hand-hold which -would be extremely dangerous, if not impossible, to attempt, if they -were not dry. Fortunately, we found them perfectly free from either -water or ice, and, with the exception of one difficult piece, which it -took us some little time to surmount, we found nothing to check us -until we were just under the _arte_. We ascended by the right-hand -couloir, if I may so term it, and then made for the gap on the ridge at -the extreme westerly end. Just below this gap we experienced some -difficulty, owing to the excessive smoothness of the rocks, but finally -reached the gap I have mentioned a little before nine. - -"I need not say that our hopes rose high, and that we were in the very -best of spirits, and when we finally stood in the gap itself we began to -think the worst part of the work was over. We soon found, however, that -it had hardly begun; it was all very well being in the gap, but the -problem was how to get from there on to the _arte_ itself; for, though -the latter was not more than 20 feet above us, the peculiar formation of -the rocks rendered every attempt to get on to it fruitless. The rocks -hung over on every side. We exhausted ourselves in vain attempts to -surmount them. An hour soon passed away, and after each of us in turn -had failed, we sat down disconsolately to consider the situation under -the lee of the ridge, so as to be out of the way of the biting north -wind which was blowing. Looking round as we sat mournfully consuming -some breakfast, I spied a bottle in a crevice, and found it contained -the names of Mr C. E. Matthews and Herr E. von Fellenberg, with -Melchior Anderegg and two other guides; it was undated, but recounted -how they had reached this spot and had been obliged to return without -achieving their object, which apparently was identical with our own. -This was the last straw, and exasperated Ambrose to the highest degree. -That we should have gone through so much only to have gained the same -spot where another party several years before had arrived was too much -for his equanimity. He vowed he would never go back, and nothing under -heaven should turn him back, he would get on to the ridge. We might do -as we liked, he meant to stay there until he had. All of which I pointed -out to him was very fine talk, but, as men were at present constructed, -it did not appear to me possible to climb an acute angle. Ambrose, -however, persisted that he would make another attempt to get on to the -ridge, and, as it was quite hopeless anywhere on the side by which we -had ascended, he roped himself, and insisted on being let down the -northern face of the mountain. - -"With great skill he managed to work himself along the face for the full -length of the rope, and the first 100 feet being exhausted, a second of -80 feet was tied to it, and this again paid out to its utmost length; -still he could find no way up to the ridge. He thereupon demanded that -the rope should be let go, and, in spite of our remonstrances at the -danger he was running, he pulled it in, slung it on his back, and -proceeded, while we sat down and waited with no little anxiety lest some -accident should befall him. - -"For half an hour we neither saw nor heard anything of him, and our -shouts remained unanswered. Zurbrcken muttered at intervals something -about 'Dummheit,' and was evidently very uneasy. Suddenly we heard a -shout from above, which told us he had succeeded in ascending the wall -above him, and getting on to the ridge, down which he was actually -coming at the moment, and the next minute he was peering over the point -where we had been stuck. - -"It was really a magnificent exhibition both of pluck and skill, and -Ambrose deserves the highest credit for his success. Letting the rope -over, and fastening it well to a piece of rock, he first hauled up the -ice axes and knapsacks, and then we each in turn were half hauled, and -half climbed to the place where he stood. I know when I arrived at the -top I was nearly speechless from the terrible exertion it was necessary -to make, and the pressure of the rope on my ribs; I could only lie on my -back and gasp feebly for brandy! - -"However, it was imperative to proceed; more than two hours had been -wasted here, and it was nearly eleven o'clock. The way in front of us -looked fairly plain and easy, and our hopes once again began to rise; -but soon, as we proceeded along the ridge, it became narrower and -narrower, until from walking we were reduced to kneeling, and at last -could only proceed _ cheval_; in this elegant position we struggled -along for some little distance, until the _arte_ widening out again -permitted us once more to stand up; but here we found the rocks much -more difficult, and finally absolutely impossible. At the foot of the -peak at the easterly end of the ridge which I have before mentioned we -were forced off the _arte_ on to a wall of ice which led to the summit; -the slope was at a very sharp angle, the ice very hard and blue, and at -last became so steep that we were forced back on to the rocks, and with -some considerable difficulty reached the summit; from there we could see -the Silberhorn in front of us jutting out like a great white promontory -into a frozen sea. It being then one o'clock, we saw there was no -possibility of our getting back the same way that evening, so we made no -sign to our porter, whom we could see watching us far down below. - -"The formation of the ridge here is somewhat curious. After a slight -descent it broadens out into a small and much crevassed glacier, shut in -on the further side by a level snow wall, the promontory which I have -mentioned above. The _arte_ of this wall appears to run level from the -rock ridge to its northern termination; indeed, I am of opinion that the -highest point is on the rock ridge itself, and that the extreme end of -the ridge facing the Wengern Alp is a few feet lower than the rocks -overlooking the Roththal. - -"We speedily crossed the little intervening glacier, or snow-field, and -commenced to ascend diagonally the snow wall, but found the snow in such -a dangerous condition, lying as it was loosely on the surface of ice, -that from the fear of starting an avalanche we once more made our way -back to the ridge which formed the continuation of the _arte_ along -which we had been climbing. Here the rocks were extremely difficult, -being interspersed with ice and very rotten. I think this was one of the -most difficult parts of the expedition. It was half-past three when we -reached the final summit, and then made our way along the snow ridge -nearly to its extremity. The snow _arte_ was very narrow, and in its -then condition not very pleasant to traverse; the day too was far -advanced, and we had no time to spend in much exploration, so we -returned as quickly as we could to the ridge which leads down to the -Silberlcke; we were already getting very doubtful as to whether we -should get any shelter for the night. We had reached the narrow rock -_arte_ joining the Silberhorn with the precipices of the Jungfrau; in -the middle was the narrow gap called the Silberlcke, and to that we -crawled down and halted a moment to consider whether it would not be -better to descend on to the glacier and strike across to the Wengern -Alp; but we knew from the results of previous expeditions that crossing -the glacier would probably take four, if not five hours. None of us had -ever been across it; it was then four o'clock, and it would be dark at -six. Our only hope lay in getting across the Jungfrau before the -daylight finally died out. In the gap we found a ladder left by some -previous explorer, and two or three pieces of wood; and after debating -whether we had not better pass the night there, finally decided to push -on for the Jungfrau. - -"Our chance of escaping a night in the open air depended mainly on two -points: first, whether the snow leading to the Jungfrau was in fairly -good condition; and, secondly, whether anybody whose steps we could make -use of for descending had been on the mountain that day. A few minutes -settled the first question; we found that the slopes leading up to the -upper snow-field which circles round the base of the Jungfrau were hard -as ice, and we were soon laboriously cutting steps upwards. We pushed on -with all speed, but step-cutting is at the best a slow operation, and -before we got into the Roththal track the lengthening shadows had almost -overtaken us. We hurried on and managed to get across the _bergschrund_ -before the last rays of sunlight left the summit of the Jungfrau. As we -surmounted the final rocks I turned for a minute to look across -Switzerland, and was rewarded by one of the most beautiful spectacles it -has ever been my good fortune to witness. The valleys were filled with -mist, but the setting sun tinged their surface with a deep crimson glow; -the last rays were still lingering round Mont Blanc and one or two of -the higher mountains; where we stood was still filled with golden light -from the last rays of the sinking sun. The sky was perfectly clear, and -the panorama which unrolled itself before our eyes with its mingled -light and shadow was one of the most wonderful that lover of mountain -scenery could desire to gaze on. A justification for the erection of a -hut on the summit of the Jungfrau might almost be found in the -possibility of obtaining such a view. - -"But we had no time for indulging in rhapsodies; a bitter north wind was -still blowing so keenly, that the upper leather of our boots had frozen -stiff as boards while we walked. The moon was well up, and if only our -second hope were realised, and some one had been on the mountain that -day, we might find a refuge from the wind in the Bergli or Concordia -Huts. We tumbled rather than scrambled down the rocks by the flickering -moonlight, until we reached the well-known point where it is necessary -to strike across the face just above the Roththal Sattel. Our last hope -was dashed to the ground. No one had been there that day, and if we were -to get down it must be by our own efforts. So Ambrose at once set to -work to cut steps across the face. We had been there a fortnight before, -and gone up and down the Jungfrau without cutting hardly a step; now the -face was all blue ice, and in five minutes I made up my mind that the -risk of such a descent was too much to take. - -"The wall above the great _bergschrund_ was in shadow, the _bergschrund_ -last year was especially formidable, and we were all too exhausted -safely to face the freezing wind on such a steep ice-slope in the dark. -We returned, therefore, to the rocks, and, after a brief consultation, -decided to pass the night there as best we could. We managed to find a -corner shut in on two sides by rock about 5 feet high, from the floor of -which we set to work to rake out the snow with our axes. The snow had -drifted to a considerable depth, and its excavation gave us a good -quantity of heat to start the night with, but our boots refused to thaw, -and do what we would our feet would not get warm. - -"Our provisions being nearly exhausted, we agreed only to take a -mouthful of brandy and a little bread that night, and keep the bulk of -the provisions until next morning, when we expected to be in a more or -less exhausted condition, as the cold was very great, and it was obvious -that we had a pretty severe ordeal before us. It was by this time -half-past seven o'clock. We put on our gloves and gaiters, buttoned up -our coats, and after making a seat apiece out of three smooth stones, -sat down as close together as we could, and commenced to smoke. - -"The night was beautifully clear, but far away to the south we could see -a great thunderstorm raging over the Italian hills, and were in no -little trepidation lest it should be coming up in our direction, as -indeed a storm had done in exactly a similar way a week before; but the -north wind kept it at bay, and we luckily had not a snow-storm to face -in addition to the other discomforts. - -"The night passed slowly enough; it was necessary to keep shuffling our -feet and beating our arms together the whole night long without -cessation, in order to prevent being frost-bitten, and it was even more -difficult to keep awake. The hours, however, passed somehow, and at -half-past four the first primrose streaks in the sky heralded the coming -day. By five o'clock the welcome face of the sun peeped over the -Trugberg, and we began to prepare for a start. - -"Our first thought was breakfast, but this solace was denied us; the -wine and brandy had frozen during the night, and were solid lumps of -ice; the bread required nothing less than an ice-axe to cut it, and then -probably would have flown into chips like a log of wood; the three -remaining eggs we possessed had been converted during the night into -icicles; there was nothing for it, therefore, but to start hungry and -thirsty. Ambrose proposed that he and Zurbrcken should first cut the -steps, and then come back for me, but after a very few minutes' exposure -to the wind they were obliged to return and wait until the sun had -warmed them a little, the biting cold of the night and exhaustion from -want of sleep rendered it impossible to face the work of step-cutting in -such a bitter wind. We resumed our seats, therefore, and waited another -hour, and then commenced our descent to the _bergschrund_. We had to cut -steps the whole way down, and very glad I was we had not attempted it in -the dark, as I think it would have been almost impossible to get over -without an accident. - -"We pushed on steadily, but the night had taken all the spurt out of us, -and our progress across the Jungfrau Firn was not very rapid. We hoped -to find water under the Mnch Joch, where we had found a good supply a -fortnight previously, but the wind had prevented the snow melting at the -time we reached the spot, and there was nothing for it but to press on -to Grindelwald, and it was not until we reached the end of the Viescher -Glacier that we found any water to drink. At the Bregg we got some -ginger nuts to eat, and by three o'clock in the afternoon were being -hospitably welcomed by the Bosses at the 'Br,' whose welcome was never -more appreciated. These estimable hosts soon had an excellent dinner -ready, and by half-past four I was driving to Interlaken to rejoin the -rest of my party." - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -THE STORY OF A BIG JUMP - - -Through the kindness of Dr Kennedy, I am enabled to reprint from his new -edition of _The Alps in 1864_, by the late Mr A. W. Moore, an admirable -account of the first passage of the Col de la Pilatte in Dauphin. This -expedition has become classical, thanks to Mr Whymper's fine description -of it,[9] so it is interesting to read what impression the adventures of -the day made on another member of the party. The first part of the -expedition was easy, but, wrote Mr Moore, "before getting near the foot -of the couloir, we had something to do in threading a way up and through -the huge chasms into which the glacier was broken. Croz was here -thoroughly in his element, and led the way with great skill and -determination, passing one obstacle after another, and bearing gradually -to the left towards the enemy. At every step we took, it became more -apparent that nature had never intended any one to pass this way, and -had accordingly taken more than usual pains to render the approach to -the couloir difficult and dangerous. Below the highest _bergschrund_ -were a series of smaller ones, arranged systematically one above the -other, stretching completely across a very steep slope, so that they -could not be turned, but must each in succession be attacked _en face_. -Fortunately at this early period of the season, and with so much snow, -the difficulty was less considerable than it would have been under other -circumstances, and, exercising every precaution, we finally passed the -last of the outer lines of defence, and had nothing but a short steep -slope between us and the final _schrund_, above which the couloir rose -more unfriendly than ever, as we approached it nearer. I had been sorely -puzzled in my mind how we were going to get across this chasm, as from -below it appeared to have a uniform width of about 10 feet, the upper -edge, as usual, much higher than the lower, and no visible bridge at any -point. On getting up to it, however, we found that on the extreme right -it had been choked by a considerable mass of snow, the small remains of -which at one point formed a narrow, rotten, and most insecure bridge, -over which Croz cautiously passed, and made himself firm in the soft -snow above. Walker, Whymper, Mons. Renaud, myself, and Almer, then -followed, as if we were treading on eggs, and all got safely over, much -to our relief, as there really appeared no small chance of the bridge -going to grief before we were all across, which would have been awkward -for those on the wrong side. - -"It was just 9.30 when we fairly took to this extraordinary gully, -which, above the _bergschrund_ was certainly not more than 12 feet wide, -and gradually narrowed in its upward course. For the first few steps we -trod in a sufficiency of soft snow in good condition, but, to our -dismay, this soon sensibly diminished both in quantity and quality, -until at last there was nothing but the old, disgusting, powdery snow -resting on hard ice. The axe accordingly came into play; but if steps -were cut of the ordinary size, we should never get to the top till -night, so Croz just hacked out sufficient space for the feet to cling -to, and worked away as fast as possible, cautioning us emphatically to -look out, and to hold on well with our axes while each step was being -cut. Another argument in favour of rapid progress arose from the -palpable danger in which we were. The centre of the couloir was occupied -by a deeply-scored trough, evidently a channel for stones and -avalanches, while the space on either side was so narrow that in case of -a large fall we could scarcely expect to escape unharmed. Looking up to -see what was likely to come down, we discovered at the very head of the -couloir a perpendicular or slightly overhanging wall of _nv_, some 30 -feet in height, and lower down, projecting over the rocks on our left, -an enormous mass of icicles, on which the sun was playing, and, of -course, momentarily loosening their tenure to the rocks. At the moment -we were exactly in the line which they must follow, if they fell, as -they evidently would before long, so we lost no time in crossing the -stone channel to the other side, where the great mass was scarcely -likely to come, and we might probably ward off any stray fragments. I -received a lively hint as to the effect of a _large_ mass of ice coming -suddenly down on one's head, by the effect of a blow from a -comparatively small piece, which Croz hewed out from one of the steps. -Being so far down in the line, it had time to gain momentum before it -struck me, which it did on the head with such violence that for a few -moments I felt quite sick and stupid. The incident will give a very good -idea of the steepness of the slope on which we were. I had too much to -think of to measure it with a clinometer, but it was certainly steeper -than any part of the couloir leading to the Col des Ecrins, the greatest -inclination of which was 54. At one point a little water trickled over -the rocks, which the two front men managed to get a suck at, but those -behind were out of reach, and the footing was too precarious for more -than a minute's halt, not to mention occasional volleys of small stones -which shot by us, and might be the precursors of large ones. I don't -think that I ever experienced a greater feeling of insecurity than -during the whole of this ascent, which was unavoidably long. What with -the extreme steepness of the slope, and the necessary vagueness of the -steps, which were made additionally unsafe by the powdery snow which -filled them up as soon as they were cut, I felt that a slip was a by no -means unlikely contingency, and was glad enough upon occasions to find -Almer's hand behind, giving me a friendly push whenever a particularly -long stride had to be made. When we were nearing the top, our attention -was attracted by a tremendous uproar behind us, and, looking round, we -were just in time to see a prodigious avalanche falling over the cliffs -of the Pic de Bonvoisin, on the other side of the valley. It was at -least a quarter of a mile in length, and many minutes elapsed before the -last echoes of its fall died away. We were now so near the great -snow-wall that it was time to begin to circumvent it; so, crossing the -couloir again, we clambered up the rocks on that side in order to get -out of it, hoping to be able from them to get on to the main ridge to -the left of the wall, which itself was quite impassable. As Almer had -expected, the snow was here very thin over the rocks, and what little -there was, was converted into ice, so that the climbing was most -difficult and perilous, and we had no small trouble to get on at all. -However, we managed to scramble up, and found ourselves overlooking a -gully running parallel, and of a similar character, to the one we had -been ascending, but free from snow and ice, and much more precipitous. -On our side it was quite impossible to get on to the main ridge as an -impracticable rock rose above our heads, and it was, therefore, -necessary to step across this second couloir. I never made a nastier -step; the stride was exceedingly long, there was nothing in particular -to stand on, and nothing at all but a smooth face of rock to hold on by, -so that we had literally to trust to the natural adhesiveness of our -hands. Fortunately, there was sufficient rope to allow the man in front -to cross and get on to the main ridge, and make himself fast before his -successor followed, so we attacked the difficulty in turn. I got over -somehow, but did not like it at all; lifted myself on to the ridge, -Almer followed, and at 10.45 A.M., the Col was gained. - -"During our ascent of the couloir, the weather, though doubtful, had not -been unfavourable, but, just as we got on to the ridge, a cloud swooped -down, and enveloped us in its dense folds, and at the same moment it -began to snow violently. Luckily Croz, who was first on the top, had -been able to satisfy himself that we _were_ above the Glacier de la -Pilatte, and got a glimpse of what lay between us and it; but the state -of the atmosphere was, nevertheless, sufficiently disappointing, as we -were unable to fix with accuracy the exact position of our gap with -reference to the peak of Les Bans, and the highest point of the Boeufs -Rouges, or to determine its height. From the Brche de la Meije, we had -seen clearly that we were then considerably lower than any point on the -ridge south of the Glacier de la Pilatte, and, taking this into -consideration, together with the apparent height of our gap, seen from -the valley below, we estimated the height of the Col, which we proposed -to call Col de la Pilatte, at about 11,500 feet. It is certainly not -much below this, and is, therefore, probably the highest pass yet -effected in the Dauphin Alps. - -[Illustration: A VERY TAME BERGSCHRUND. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: HOMEWARD OVER THE SNOW-SLOPES.] - -"It was no less provoking to have missed the view of the Ecrins and -Ailefroide, which we had expected to be particularly fine. But there was -no help for it, and no prospect of immediate improvement; so, without -halting for a minute, we commenced the descent in the same order as -before. All we could see was a steep ice-wall, stretching downwards from -our feet, the actual ridge not being more than a couple of feet wide. -What was the length of the wall, or what lay below it, we could not -discover, but had a shrewd suspicion that we should anyhow find a -considerable _bergschrund_. Croz steered to the left, and began cutting -steps diagonally downwards. The snow was in a much worse condition than -it had been in the couloir; there was more of it, but it was so -exceedingly soft, that our feet pressed through it to the hard ice, as -though it had been water, and we were very rarely able to trust to it -without cutting a step. We should have been better pleased had there -been no snow at all, as the whole slope, the angle of which was about -50, was in just the proper condition for an avalanche. I never saw -Almer so nervous, and with reason; for, as he himself said, while he -implored us not to move from one step into another before we felt that -one foot at least was secured, this was just one of those places where -no amount of skill on the part of Croz or himself could entirely prevent -the chance of a serious accident. It was a wonder how we did manage to -stick to some of the steps, the objectionable character of which was -increased from their being cut along the side of the slope, a position -in which it is always more difficult to get from one to the other than -when they are cut straight up or down. As we got lower down there was -more snow, which, though softer than ever, was so steep that we could -tread tolerably secure steps on it, by help of which we worked down, -until we found ourselves brought up short on the upper edge of the -expected _bergschrund_. Croz had hoped to hit this at a point where it -was partially choked, but he was disappointed, as the chasm yawned below -us, entirely unbridged. A glance right and left showed that there was no -more assailable point within reach, so Croz gave out the unwelcome -intelligence that if we wished to get over we must jump and take our -chance. The obstacle appeared to be about 10 feet wide, of uncomfortable -depth, and the drop from the upper to the lower edge about 15 feet. From -the lower edge the glacier sloped away, only less steep than the wall on -which we were, of which it was a continuation, but cut off by this -sudden break. There was, however, so much soft snow that we should fall -easy, and the only difficulty, therefore, was to take a sufficiently -fair spring to clear the chasm; for, good as I believed my rope to be, I -should have been sorry to see any one suspended by it, with a sudden -jerk, over such a gulf as that we had beneath us. Walker was untied, so -as to give rope enough to Croz, who then boldly sprung over, and landed -heavily on the lower edge in the snow, where he stood to receive the -rest of the party. Walker followed, and then Whymper, leaving Mons. -Renaud, myself, and Almer above. Mons. Renaud advanced to the edge, -looked, hesitated, drew back, and finally declared that he could not -jump it; he felt perfectly convinced that he should be unable to clear -the distance, and should jump in instead of over. We encouraged him, -but without effect, and at last proposed to lower him down, when the -others would hook hold of his legs somehow and pull him across. Almer -and I, therefore, made our footing as secure as possible, anchored -ourselves with our axes, and made all ready to lower our friend, but his -courage failed him at the last moment, and he refused to go. We were now -obliged to use stronger arguments, as it was snowing fast, and time was -passing, so we pointed out that, if we wished to return ever so much, we -could not get the others back across the _schrund_, and that, in point -of fact, there was no chance--over he _must_ go. Again did he advance to -the edge, again draw back, but finally, with a despairing groan, leaped, -and just landed clear of the chasm, but, instead of letting his rope -hang loose, he held it in one hand, and thereby nearly pulled me over -head foremost. Then came my turn, and I must confess that, when I stood -in the last step from which I had to spring, I did not like the look of -the place at all, and, in fact, felt undeniably nervous. But I had not -been one of the least backward in objurgating Mons. Renaud, so felt -constrained to manifest no hesitation myself, whatever might be my -private feelings. I, therefore, threw over my axe and spectacles, -gathered myself up, and took the leap. The sensation was most peculiar. -I had not the faintest idea whether I should or should not clear the -chasm, but the doubt was soon solved by my landing heavily on the -further side, rather to the right of the rest of the party. The heavy -load on my back sent me forwards on my face, and I shot down the slope -with tremendous velocity, head foremost, until I was suddenly stopped by -the tightening round my waist of the rope, the other end of which was -held by Almer above. My first impression was, that half my ribs were -crushed in; as it was, my wind was so completely bagged by the severity -of the jerk that I could not speak, but laughed hysterically, until -nature's bellows had replenished my unlucky carcass. The incident was so -far satisfactory that it showed the enormous strength of the rope, and -also how severe a shock a man like Almer, standing in a most insecure -position, can bear unmoved when he is prepared for it. My weight, -unloaded, is 10 stone, and the strain on the rope was certainly nearly -as great as though I _had_ jumped into the crevasse. Almer now followed -us over, and at 11.35 we were all together without accident below the -_schrund_, which, with the wall above it, was as ugly-looking a place as -I would wish to see. - -"We now floundered down the slope of soft snow, without taking much -care, as we imagined that henceforward it was all plain sailing, but -were abruptly checked in our pace by coming upon a huge crevasse, of -great length and breadth, but covered over in places. Several attempts -were made to cross at one of these points, but without success, as the -breadth was too great, and the snow unsubstantial in the extreme, and a -long _dtour_ was necessary before we were able to get over near its -eastern extremity. This proved to be the beginning of a new series of -troubles, as the chasms became more and more numerous and complicated, -until the slope which we had imagined would be so easy, resolved itself -into a wall of gigantic _sracs_, the passage of which tasked our -energies to the utmost. The difficulty of the position was increased by -our still being enveloped in a mist so thick that we could not see a -distance of 20 feet below us, and were in a happy state of ignorance as -to whether we were steering properly, or were only plunging deeper into -the mire. Nothing, however, could exceed the energy and skill with which -Croz threaded his way through the labyrinth which surrounded us. He -never once had to retrace his steps, but, cutting along the sides of -some crevasses and underneath others, he steadily gained ground. In -spite of the generally deep snow, a good deal of step-cutting was -necessary here and there, and we had nearly an hour of most exciting -work before the inclination of the glacier diminished, and at 12.30 -P.M., for the first time since leaving the Col, we stood at ease upon a -flat plain of snow. But how long would it last? A fog on an unknown -glacier always suggests to my desponding mind the probability of -marching round and round in a circle, and finally having to pass the -night in a crevasse, so that I, personally, was particularly relieved -when, just as we emerged from the _sracs_, the mist suddenly lifted -sufficiently to let us see a long way over the glacier in front, which -displayed itself to our admiring eyes perfectly level and -uncrevassed." - -[Illustration: THE ECRINS FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE GRANDE RUINE.] - -[Illustration: _The summit of the Jungfrau._ (_P. 217._) - -_To face p. 235._] - -[Illustration: CLOUDS BREAKING LIKE A GIANT WATERFALL ON A MOUNTAIN -RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: SNOW (NOT CLOUD) BLOWN BY A TERRIFIC WIND FROM A MOUNTAIN -RIDGE.] - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -A PERILOUS FIRST ASCENT - - -Mr Whymper has also immortalised the first ascent of the Ecrins. Here is -the account Mr Moore wrote in his diary of that eventful day: - -"It must be confessed that the higher we climbed, the greater became our -contempt for our peak. It certainly seemed that, once over the -_bergschrund_, we ought very soon to be on the top, and so persuaded was -I of this, that I hazarded the opinion that by 9.30 we should be seated -on the highest point. Whymper alone was less sanguine; and, probably -encouraged by the result of his former bet, on hearing my opinion, -offered to bet Walker and myself two francs that we should not get up at -all, an offer which we promptly accepted. We were now sufficiently near -to the _bergschrund_ to be able to form some idea of its nature and -difficulty. It certainly was a formidable-looking obstacle running -completely along the base of the final peak, or rather ridge from which -the peak itself rose. For a long distance the chasm was of great width, -and, with its upper edge rising in a wall of ice, fringed with icicles, -to a height of, perhaps, 30 feet above the lower edge, was obviously -quite impassable. But on the extreme right (looking up), the two lips so -nearly met that we thought we might be able to get over, and on the -extreme left, it seemed possible, by a considerable _dtour_, to -circumvent the enemy, and get round his flank. We finally determined on -the latter course, as, to the right, the slope above the chasm seemed to -be steeper than at any other point. After the first start, we had been -steering tolerably straight forwards up the centre of the glacier, and -were now approaching the _bergschrund_, just under the highest peak of -the mountain, at about its most impracticable point. The more direct -course would have been to attack it on the right, but, for the reason -above stated, we chose the opposite end, so had to strike well away to -the left diagonally up the slope. We here first began to suspect that -our progress would not be quite so easy and rapid as we had hoped, as -the snow became less abundant, and the use of the axe necessary. Still -we worked away steadily, until, at 8.10 A.M., in one hour and forty -minutes from the Col, we turned the _bergschrund_, and were fairly on -its upper edge, clinging to an ice-step which promised to be only the -first of an unpleasantly long series. - -"Above us the slope stretched up to some rocks, which continued without -interruption to the main ridge, a prominent point on which was just -above our heads. The rocks looked quite easy, and it seemed that, by -making for them just under the small peak, we should be able to work -round the latter, and get on to the main ridge to the right of it -without serious difficulty. Almer led, and wielded his axe with his -usual vigour, but the ice was fearfully hard, and he found the work very -severe, as the steps had to be cut sufficiently large and good to serve -for our retreat, if need be. After each blow, he showered down storms of -fragments which came upon the hands and legs of his followers with a -violence that rendered their position the reverse of pleasant. Still the -rocks kept their distance, and it was a long time before we scrambled on -to the lowest of them, only to find that, although from below they had -appeared quite easy, they were in reality very steep, and so smooth that -it was scarcely possible to get along them at all, the hold for hands -and feet being almost nil. The rocky peak, too, above us turned out to -be much further off than we had supposed, and, to reach the point on the -main ridge to the right of it, we had before us a long and difficult -climb up and along the face of the rocks. The prospect was not pleasant, -but we scrambled along the lower part of the rocks for a short time, and -then Almer started off alone to reconnoitre, leaving us rather -disconsolate, and Walker and myself beginning to think that there was a -considerable probability of our francs, after all, finding their way -into Whymper's pocket. Croz did not approve of the rocks at all, and -strongly urged the propriety of getting down on to the ice-slope again, -and cutting along it above the _bergschrund_ until we should be -immediately under the peak, and then strike straight up towards it. He -accordingly cast loose the rope, and crawling cautiously down, began -cutting. I am not very nervous, but, as I saw him creeping alone over -the ice-covered rocks, I felt an unpleasant qualm, which I was doomed to -experience several times before the end of the day. Just as Croz had -begun to work Almer returned, and reported that things ahead were -decidedly bad, but that he thought we could get on to the _arte_ by -keeping up the rocks. We passed his opinion down to Croz, and, while he -was digesting it, we communicated to Almer what Croz had been saying to -us. Now, up to the present time no two men could have got on better, nor -more thoroughly agreed with each other, than Croz and Almer. We had been -slightly afraid that the natural antipathy between an Oberlander and a -Chamouniard would break out upon every occasion, and that a constant -series of squabbles would be our daily entertainment. We were, however, -agreeably disappointed, as Almer displayed such an utter abnegation of -self, and such deference to Croz's opinion, that had the latter been the -worst-tempered fellow in the world, instead of the really good fellow -that he was, he could not have found a cause of quarrel. Upon this -occasion, although Almer adhered to his own opinion that it would be -better to keep to the rocks, he begged us to follow the advice of Croz, -who was equally strong in favour of the ice, should he, on further -consideration, prefer that course. Croz protested emphatically against -the rocks, but left it to us to decide, but in such a manner that it was -plain that a decision adverse to his wishes would produce a rumpus. The -position was an awkward one. The idea of cutting along a -formidably-steep slope of hard ice immediately above a prodigious -_bergschrund_ was most revolting to us, not only on account of the -inevitable danger of the proceeding, but also because of the frightful -labour which such a course must entail on the two men. On the other -hand, a serious difference with Croz would probably destroy all chance -of success in our attempt. So convinced, however, were we that the rocks -offered the most advisable route that we determined to try the -experiment on Croz's temper, and announced our decision accordingly. The -effect was electric; Croz came back again in the steps which he had cut, -anger depicted on his countenance, giving free vent to the ejaculations -of his native land, and requesting us to understand that, as we had so -chosen, we might do the work ourselves, that he would do no more. -Affairs were evidently serious, so each of us cried _peccavi_, and, to -calm his irritation, agreed, it must be confessed against our better -judgment, to adopt his route. Almer was more amused than annoyed, and -concurred without a word, so the storm blew over; the sky was again -clear, and we resumed our labours, which, during the discussion, had -been suspended for a few minutes. - -"The half-dozen steps that led us to the ice were about the most -unpleasant I ever took. The rocks were glazed with ice; there was -nothing in particular to hold on by, and without the trusty rope I -should have looked a long time before trusting myself to move. As it -was, I was very considerably relieved when we were all standing in the -steps, and Croz, again roped on to us, began at 9.35 to cut in front. I -must do him the justice to say that, so soon as we were committed to his -line of march, he worked splendidly, bringing the whole force of his arm -to bear in the blows with which he hewed the steps. Never halting for a -moment nor hesitating, he hacked away, occasionally taking a glance -behind to see that all was right. We could not but admire the -determination with which he laboured, but the exertion was fearful, and -we became momentarily more of opinion that our original decision was the -wisest. The slope on which we were was inclined at an angle of 50, -never less, sometimes more, for the most part of hard blue ice, bare of -snow. This was bad enough; but far worse were places which we -occasionally came to, where there was a layer of soft, dry, powdery -snow, without cohesion, so that it gave no footing, and steps had to be -cut through it into the ice below, steps which were filled up almost as -soon as cut, and which each man had to clear out with his hands before -trusting his feet in them. All the time the great _bergschrund_ yawned -about 100 feet below us, and the knowledge of this fact kept us well on -the alert, although, from the steepness of the slope below, the chasm -itself was not visible. One hears people talk occasionally of places -where the rope should not be used, because one person slipping might -entail the loss of the whole party; but I never heard a guide give vent -to any such idea, and certain I am that had any one of us now proposed -to take off the rope and go alone on that account, Almer and Croz would -never have allowed it, and, indeed, would not have advanced another -step. It must be admitted, however, that all along this slope, had one -of us unfortunately slipped, the chance of the others being able to hold -him up would have been very small, and the probability of the party in -their fall being shot over, instead of into, the _bergschrund_, still -smaller. But, in my opinion, the use of the rope on such places gives so -much more confidence, if it is no real protection, that the chances of a -slip are much diminished, and certainly a party can progress more -rapidly. For an hour Croz kept on his way unwearied, cutting the steps -for the most part beautifully, but occasionally giving us rather a long -stride, where every one held on like grim death, while each man in -succession passed. But at last even his powerful frame required rest; so -Almer relieved him, and went to the front. - -"All this time we had risen but little, but we were now very nearly -under the highest peak, and it was necessary to think of getting on to -the ridge; so we at last fairly turned our faces to the slope, and began -cutting straight up what appeared to be a great central couloir. Unlike -most couloirs, this one did not run without interruption to the ridge -above, but came to an abrupt termination at a considerable distance -below it, leaving an intervening space of rock, which promised some -trouble. But we were yet far from the lowest point of these rocks, and -every step towards them cost no small amount of time and labour. I have -rarely been on harder ice, and, as blow after blow fell with so little -apparent result in raising us towards our goal, an inexpressible -weariness of spirit and a feeling of despair took possession of me. -Nevertheless we _did_ mount, and at 11.30, after two hours of terribly -hard work (for the guides), we grasped with our hands the lowest of the -crags. To get on them, however, was no easy task, as they were -exceedingly smooth, and coated with ice. Almer scrambled up, how I know -not, and, taking as much rope as possible, crawled on until he was -_fest_, when, by a combined operation of pulling from above and pushing -from below, each of us in turn was raised a few steps. We hoped that -this might be an exceptional bit, and that higher up matters would -improve. But it was a vain hope; the first few steps were but a -foretaste of what was to follow, and every foot of height was gained -with the greatest difficulty and exertion. As we climbed with the tips -of our fingers in some small crevice, and the tips of our toes just -resting on some painfully minute ledge, probably covered with ice or -snow, one question gradually forced itself upon us, almost to the -exclusion of the previously absorbing one, whether we should get to the -top of the mountain, and this was, how on earth we should ever get down -again--get down, that is to say, in any other state than that of -_dbris_. The idea that it would be possible to descend these rocks -again, except with a rush in the shape of an avalanche, seemed rather -absurd; and at last, some one propounded the question to Almer and Croz, -but those worthies shirked the answer, and gave us one of those oracular -replies which a good guide always has at the tip of his tongue when he -is asked a question to which he does not wish to give a straightforward -response, to the effect that we should probably get down somehow. They -were, perhaps, of opinion that one thing at a time was sufficient, and -that they had work enough to settle the question of how we were to get -up. Our progress was unavoidably slow, and the positions in which one -was detained, while the man in front was going the full length of his -tether, were far from agreeable; while hanging on by my eyelids, the -view, seen between my legs, of the smooth wall of rock and ice on which -we had been so long engaged, struck me as being singularly impressive, -and gave me some occupation in discussing mentally where I should stop, -if in an oblivious moment I chanced to let go. But to all things must -come an end, and, at 12.30 P.M., with a great sigh of relief, we lifted -ourselves by a final effort on to the main ridge, which had so long -mocked at our efforts to reach it, and, to our huge delight, saw the -summit of the mountain on our right, led up to by a very steep _arte_ -of rocks, but evidently within our reach. - -"The work of the last four hours and a half had been so exciting that -we had forgotten to eat, and, indeed, had not felt the want of food; but -now the voice of nature made itself heard, and we disposed ourselves in -various positions on the ridge, which in many places we might have -straddled, and turned our attention to the provisions. As we sat facing -the final peak of the Ecrins, we had on our left the precipice which -falls to the head of the Glacier Noir. Without any exaggeration, I never -saw so sheer a wall; it was so smooth and regular that it might have -been cut with a knife, as a cheese is cut in two. Looking over, we saw -at once that, as we had thought probable, had we been able to get from -La Brarde on to the ridge at the head of the Glacier du Vallon, it -would have been impossible to get down on to the Glacier Noir, as the -cliffs are almost as precipitous as those down which we were looking. On -the right bank of the Glacier Noir towered the dark crags of the -Pelvoux, Crte du Pelvoux, and Ailefroide, a most glorious sight, -presenting a combination of, perhaps, the finest rock-forms in the Alps; -I certainly never saw so long and steep a line of cliffs, rising so -abruptly from a glacier. - -"At 12.50 we started again, Almer leading. We had first to cross a very -short but very narrow neck of snow, and Almer had scarcely set foot on -this, when a great mass of snow, which had appeared quite firm and part -of the ridge, suddenly gave way, and fell with a roar to the Glacier -Noir below. Almer's left foot was actually on this snow when it gave -way. He staggered, and we all thought he was over, but he recovered -himself and managed to keep steady on the firm ridge. It is true he was -roped; but the idea of a man being dropped with a sudden jerk, and then -allowed to hang suspended, over that fearful abyss, was almost too much -for my equanimity, and for the second time a shudder ran through my -veins. This little isthmus crossed, we tackled the rocks which rose very -steeply above our heads, and climbed steadily up along the _arte_, -generally rather below the edge on the side of the Glacier de l'Encula. -The work was hard enough, but easier than what we had gone through -below, as the rocks were free from ice, and the hold for hands and feet -was much better, so that there was no fear of slipping. I don't think a -word was said from the time we quitted our halting-place until we were -close to the top, when the guides tried to persuade us to go in front, -so as to be the first to set foot on the summit. But this we declined; -they had done the work, let them be the first to reap the reward. It was -finally settled that we should all go on together as much as possible, -as neither party would give way in this amicable contest. A sharp -scramble in breathless excitement ensued, until, at 1.25 P.M., the last -step was taken, and we stood on the top of the Ecrins, the worthy -monarch of the Dauphin Alps. - -[Illustration: THE ECRINS (IN THE CENTRE) FROM THE GLACIER BLANC. By -Signor Vittorio Sella. - -_To face p. 247._] - -"In that supreme moment all our toils and dangers were forgotten in the -blissful consciousness of success, and the thrill of exultation that ran -through me, as I stood, in my turn, on the very highest point of the -higher pinnacle--a little peak of rock with a cap of snow--was cheaply -purchased by what we had gone through. Close to us was a precisely -similar point, of much the same height, which scarcely came up to the -rank of a second summit. It could have been reached in a few seconds -from our position, but, as our point was actually the higher of the two, -and was also more convenient for sitting down, we remained where we -were. I must confess to a total inability to describe the wonderful -panorama that lay extended before us. I am not one of those happily -constituted individuals who, after many hours of excitement, can calmly -sit on the apex of a mountain, and discuss simultaneously cold chicken -and points of topography. I am not ashamed to confess that I was far too -excited to study, as I ought to have done, the details of a view which, -for extent and variety, is altogether without a parallel in my Alpine -experience. Suffice it to say that over the whole sky there was not one -single cloud, and that we were sitting on the most elevated summit south -of Mont Blanc, and it may fairly be left to the imagination to conceive -what we saw, as, at an elevation of 13,462 feet, we basked in the sun, -without the cold wind usually attendant at these heights. There was not -a breath of air, and the flame of a candle would have burnt steadily -without a flicker. In our immediate neighbourhood, after the range of -the Pelvoux, before described, the most striking object was the great -wall of the Meije, the western summit of which, from here, came out -distinctly the highest. The Aiguilles d'Arves stood out exceedingly -well, and, although 2000 feet lower than our position, looked amazingly -high. Almost the only trace of civilisation we could distinctly make out -was the Lautaret road, a portion of which, probably near the entrance of -the valley leading to the Glacier d'Arsines, was plainly visible. On the -side of the mountain towards La Brarde, what principally struck us was -a very great and extensive glacier, apparently not marked on the map, -which appeared to be an arm of the Glacier du Vallon, but far more -considerable itself than the whole glacier is depicted on the French -map. Of the extent of the view, and the wonderfully favourable condition -of the atmosphere, a fair idea may be gained from the fact that we -clearly identified the forms and ridges of the Matterhorn and Weisshorn, -the latter at a distance of 120 miles, as the crow flies, and that -those were by no means the most distant objects visible. - -[Illustration: SLAB CLIMBING. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: A NARROW ROCK RIDGE. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: ON THE DENT DU GANT. By the late Mr. W. F. Donkin.] - -[Illustration: THE TOP AT LAST! - -_To face p. 252._] - -"So soon as the first excitement consequent on success had subsided, we -began seriously to meditate upon what during the ascent had frequently -troubled us, viz. the descent. With one consent we agreed that unless no -other route could be found, it would be most unadvisable to attempt to -go down the way we had mounted. The idea of the rocks, to be followed by -the ice-slope below--in a doubly dangerous state after being exposed all -day to the scorching sun--was not to be entertained without a shudder. -The only alternative route lay along the opposite _arte_ to that which -had led us to the top, and, although we could not see far in this -direction, we determined, after very little discussion, to try it. -Accordingly, after twenty minutes' halt, we each pocketed a small -fragment of the stone that was lying on the snow, and, regretting that -we had no bottle to leave, and no materials with which to construct a -cairn, took our departure at 1.45 from the lofty perch which, I fancy, -is not likely to receive many subsequent visitors. Passing immediately -below the second point before mentioned, so that our hands almost rested -on it, and also several similar pinnacles, our work commenced. I never, -before or since, was on so narrow an _arte_ of rock, and really from -step to step I was at a loss to imagine how we were to get on any -further. We kept, as a rule, just below the edge, as before, on the side -of the Glacier de l'Encula, along a series of ledges of the narrowest -and most insecure character; but we were always sufficiently near the -top to be able to look over the ridge, down the appalling precipices -which overhang, first the Glacier Noir, and later, the Glacier du -Vallon. Of course, every single step had to be taken with the greatest -care, only one person moving in turn, and the rest holding on for dear -life, Croz coming last to hold all up. In spite of the great difficulty -of the route, the obstacles were only such as required more or less time -to surmount, and although the slightest nervousness on the part of any -one of us would have endangered the whole party and delayed us -indefinitely, in the absence of that drawback we got on pretty well. We -were beginning to hope that the worst was over, when Almer suddenly -stopped short, and looked about him uneasily. On our asking him what was -the matter, he answered vaguely that things ahead looked bad, and that -he was not sure that we could pass. Croz accordingly undid the rope, as -also did Almer, and the two went forward a little, telling us to remain -where we were. We could _not_ see what was the nature of the difficulty, -but we _could_ see the countenances of the men, which sufficiently -showed us that the hitch was serious. Under any other circumstances we -should have been amused at Almer's endeavours to communicate his views -to Croz in an amazing mixture of pantomime, bad German, and worse -French. He evidently was trying to persuade Croz of something, which -Croz was not inclined to agree to, and we soon made out that the point -at issue was, whether we could get over this particular place, or -whether we must return to the summit, and go down the way we had come. -Croz was of the latter opinion, while Almer obstinately maintained that, -bad as the place was, we _could_ get over it, and proceeded to perform -some manoeuvres, which we could not clearly see, by way of showing the -correctness of his opinion. Croz, however, was unconvinced, and came -back to us, declaring plainly that we should have to return. We shouted -to Almer, who was still below, but he evidently had not the slightest -intention of returning, and in a few moments called upon us to come on, -an injunction which we cheerfully obeyed as, in our opinion, anything -would be preferable to a retreat, and Croz perforce followed. A very few -steps showed us the nature of the difficulty. The _arte_ suddenly -narrowed to a mere knife-edge of _rock_, while on one side a smooth -wall, some 4000 feet in height, fell sheer towards the Glacier du -Vallon, and on the other side, above the Glacier de l'Encula, the slope -was not much less steep and equally smooth. To pass below the ridge on -either side was obviously quite impossible; to walk along the ridge, -which was by no means level, was equally so, and the only way of getting -over the difficulty, therefore, was to straddle it, an operation which -the sharpness of the ridge, putting aside all other considerations, -would render the reverse of agreeable. However, there, perched in the -middle of this fiendish place, sat Almer, with one leg over Glacier du -Vallon and the other over the Glacier de l'Encula, calm and unmoved, as -if the position was quite an everyday one. He had not got the rope on, -and as he began moving along the ridge we shrieked at him to take care, -to which he responded with a '_ja, gewiss!_' and a chuckle of -satisfaction. We threw him the end of the rope, and then cautiously -moved, one at a time, towards him. I must confess that when I found -myself actually astride on this dizzy height I felt more inclined to -remain there for ever, contemplating the Glacier du Vallon, on to which -I might have dropped a stone, than to make my way along it. The -encouraging voice of Almer, however, urged me on, and I gradually worked -myself along with my hands until I was close up to him and Walker, with -no damage save to the seat of my trousers. Whymper and Croz followed. -From this point forwards we had for half-an-hour, without exception, the -most perilous climbing, I ever did. We crept along the cliffs, -sometimes on one side of the ridge, sometimes on the other, frequently -passing our arms over the summit, with our feet resting on rather less -than nothing. Almer led with wonderful skill and courage, and gradually -brought us over the worst portion of the _arte_, below which the -climbing was bad enough, but not quite such nervous work as before, and -we were able to get along rather quicker. At length, at 3.45, in two -hours from the top, we were not far above the well-marked gap in the -ridge, between the highest peak and the one marked on the French map -3980 mtres, or 13,058 feet. There we thankfully left the _arte_, and, -turning to the right, struck straight down the ice-slope towards the -_bergschrund_. Almost every step had to be cut, but, in spite of all he -had done, Almer's vigour seemed unimpaired, and resolutely declining -Croz's offers to come to the front, he hacked away, so that we descended -steadily, if slowly. We could not see the _bergschrund_, and were -therefore uncertain for what exact point to steer, for we knew that at -only one place would it be possible to get over it at all, where from -below we had seen that the two edges nearly met--at all others the -breadth and height would be far too great for a jump. For some distance -we kept straight down, but after a time bore rather to the left, cutting -diagonally along the slope, which was inclined at an angle of 52, and, -below us, curled over so rapidly, that we _could_ see the glacier on to -which we wished to descend, but _could not_ see what lay between us and -it. Passing over a patch of ice-covered rocks which projected very -slightly from the general level of the slope, we were certain that we -could not be far above the _schrund_, but did not quite see how we were -to get down any further without knowing whether we _were_ above a -practicable point or not. It was suggested that one of the party should -be let down with a rope, but, while we were discussing who should be the -one, Almer cut a few steps more, and then, stooping down and craning -over, gave a yell of exultation, and exclaimed that it was all right, -and that we might jump over. By a marvellous bit of intuition, or good -luck, he had led us to the only point where the two edges of the chasm -so nearly met that we could get across. He cut down as low as possible, -and then, from the last step, each man, in turn, sprang without -difficulty on to the lower edge of the crevasse, and at 4.45 the problem -of getting off the mountain was solved. - -"The return from this point was uneventful." - -A few days later Mr Moore had an amusing conversation with a chance -acquaintance, who made a remark that has since been often quoted. Mr -Moore relates it as follows:-- - -"At the door of the hotel was standing a young Frenchman, with whom we -got into conversation, observing that we had just made the ascent of the -highest mountain in the country. 'Oh,' replied he, 'sans doute, le Pic -de Belledonne'; a rather elevated Rigi in the neighbourhood. We informed -him that our conquest was not the Pic de Belladonne, but the Pic des -Ecrins, on hearing which he smiled blandly, never having heard the name -before, and, evidently meditating how he might avoid showing his -ignorance, finally contented himself with a spasmodic 'Ah!' After a -short pause, he inquired whether we had been up Mont Blanc, and, on _my_ -replying in the negative, went on to say that _he_ had, about ten days -before. We were astonished, as, without wishing to reflect on the -appearance of the worthy Gaul, I must say that he did not give us the -idea of a man capable of such a performance. However, we, in our turn, -smiled blandly, and inquired whether, so early in the season, he had -found the ascent difficult, and whether he had had a good view from the -_summit_. 'From the summit!' said he; 'I did not go to the summit.' We -ventured to inquire how high his wanderings had reached. 'Mon Dieu!' -replied he, 'jusqu'au Montanvert!' Our politeness was not proof against -this, so we broke off the conversation abruptly, and retired to indulge -our merriment unchecked." - -The Ecrins is now frequently climbed. A new way up the rocky south side -was discovered by a Frenchman, and is now usually taken for the ascent, -the descent being accomplished by the north face which the party that -included Mr Moore went up by and which has just been described. The -route is now well known, and thus it is possible to hit off the easiest -passages, but the traverse of what is known to the guides as 'the -Couloir Whymper' always requires the greatest care. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -THUNDERSTORMS IN THE ALPS - - -The fatal accident caused by lightning on the Wetterhorn in 1902 has -emphasized the curious fact that, except on that occasion, and once -before, many years ago, when Mrs Arbuthnot was killed on the -Schildthorn, no lives[10] have been lost in a thunderstorm on the Alps. -This is the more remarkable when we glance through books on -mountaineering, and notice how often climbers have been exposed to the -full fury of summer storms, and what narrow escapes they have had. In -July 1863, Mr and Mrs Spence Watson, with two friends and two guides, -made an excursion from the ggischhorn to the high glacier pass of the -Jungfraujoch, an admirable account of the day's adventures having been -contributed by Mr Watson to _The Alpine Journal_, from which I extract -the following details. - -After starting on a lovely morning, the weather changed, and when they -got to the pass they encountered a severe storm of wind, snow, and hail. -They quickly turned to descend, the snow falling so heavily that they -could not for a time see their old tracks. Suddenly a loud peal of -thunder was heard, "and shortly after," writes Mr Watson, "I observed -that a strange singing sound like that of a kettle was issuing from my -alpenstock. We halted, and finding that all the axes and stocks emitted -the same sound, stuck them into the snow. The guide from the hotel now -pulled off his cap, shouting that his head burned, and his hair seemed -to have a similar appearance to that which it would have presented had -he been on an insulated stool under a powerful electrical machine. We -all of us experienced the sensation of pricking or burning in some part -of the body, more especially in the head and face, my hair also standing -on end in an uncomfortable but very amusing manner. The snow gave out a -hissing sound, as though a shower of hail were falling; the veil in the -wide-awake of one of the party stood upright in the air; and on waving -our hands, the singing sound issued loudly from the fingers. Whenever a -peal of thunder was heard the phenomenon ceased, to be resumed before -its echoes had died away. At these times we felt shocks, more or less -violent, in those portions of the body which were most affected. By one -of these shocks my right arm was paralysed so completely that I could -neither use nor raise it for several minutes, nor, indeed, till it had -been severely rubbed by Claret, and I suffered much pain in it at the -shoulder joint for some hours. At half-past twelve the clouds began -to pass away, and the phenomenon finally ceased, having lasted -twenty-five minutes. We saw no lightning, and were puzzled at first as -to whether we should be afraid or amused. The young guide was very much -alarmed, but Claret, who had twice previously heard the singing -(unaccompanied by the other symptoms), laughed so heartily at the whole -affair that he kept up our spirits." - -[Illustration: ON A RIDGE IN THE OBERLAND.] - -[Illustration: THE SECOND LARGEST GLACIER IN THE ALPS. By Royston Le -Blond. - -_To face p. 259._] - -The position of the party, was, however, by no means safe, yet though I -have often heard the buzzing of ice-axes and rocks when in a -thunderstorm on the mountains, I have never seen any ill effects from -it. - -A little later another description appears in _The Alpine Journal_, by -Mr C. Packe, who, during the descent of a peak in the Pyrenees, was -astonished to hear a curious creaking sound proceeding from behind him. -He was carrying various heavy articles at the time, and imagined that -the noise was due to the straining of the straps of his knapsack. He -presently unslung his load, and was amazed to find a strange buzzing -noise proceeding from his rifle, "as though it had been an air gun -trying to discharge itself. As I held it away from me, pointed upwards," -he continues, "the noise became stronger, and as I in vain sought to -account for it, I thought it possible that some large insect--a bee or -beetle--might have got down the barrel, and be trying to escape. I held -the barrel downwards, with a view to shake it out; but on lowering the -gun the sound at once ceased, but was renewed as often as I raised it." -It then began to occur to Mr Packe that the sound was electrical, and he -felt sure this was so when he found that his alpenstock had joined in -the buzzing. He therefore made a hasty retreat out of the highly charged -upper regions. Several peals of thunder had previously been heard but no -lightning was seen. A violent storm had, however, been experienced in a -neighbouring district. That similar conditions may seem delightful to -one man and entirely odious to another will strike whoever reads the -following short extract from an account of a climb in the Pyrenees made -by Mons. Henri Brulle. It was translated by Count Russell for _The -Alpine Journal_, and runs as follows: - -"Another time I crossed the Vignemale alone, _en col_, under conditions -which made this expedition the pleasantest of my souvenirs. A furious -storm was raging. Enveloped in the morning in a dense fog, annoyed in -the steep couloirs of the Cerbillonas by vultures which swept over me -like avalanches, just grazing me with their long wings, assailed during -three hours by hailstones of such size that they bruised and stunned me, -deafened by thunder, and so electrified that I was hissing and -crepitating, I notwithstanding reached the summit at half-past four in -the evening, amidst incessant detonations. In descending the glacier I -got lost in a labyrinth of crevasses, and while balancing myself on an -ice-wave I nearly dropped my ice-axe. As a climax, night came on as -black as ink, and I had to grope and feel my way down the endless valley -of Ossoue. It was eleven o'clock at night when I reached Gavarnie, -almost starved and quite exhausted, but having lived the crowning day of -my life." - -Here is indeed Mark Tapley in the flesh! - -Captain E. Clayton relates in _The Alpine Journal_ an adventure that -nearly cost him his life. - -"On 17th August last I left the Hochjoch Haus with Gabriel -Spechtenhauser with the intention of ascending the Weisskugel at the -head of the Oetzthal. The weather for the past week had been very -changeable, but when we started at 3 A.M. it was fine and starlight. A -German gentleman with two guides and two others with two guides started -at the same time. As long as the aid of a lantern was desirable we kept -together, but as it grew light Gabriel and I gradually drew ahead. As -day broke clouds began to gather, and when we halted for breakfast at -6.10 A.M. they hung so heavy on the Weisskugel that after breakfast, -instead of going straight on, we diverged to the top of the rocks -leading down towards Kurzras, with the intention of waiting a short -time to see what the weather would do, and if it did not mend, of going -down to Kurzras, where a friend was awaiting me. - -"At these rocks we were overtaken by the single German gentleman with -his guides, who had outstripped the other party. Before long the weather -seemed to improve, the clouds on the Weisskugel got lighter, the sky -seemed bright to the north, and we thought that very soon everything -would be quite clear. The German quickly made a fresh start, but Gabriel -and I waited to finish our pipes. However, we soon passed the other -party, and, passing over a minor summit, where we left the rope, reached -the real summit at 8.30 A.M. We had heard one or two peals of thunder on -the way, but none appeared very close, and they seemed to be getting -more distant. The summit was still in cloud, but it did not seem thick, -and I thought it would soon blow away. But almost directly we reached -the top it began to hail, and we went down a few steps on the rocky -ridge that falls towards the Langtauferer Glacier, to be somewhat -sheltered. - -"Here I remember handing Gabriel my map to put in his pocket to keep -dry, and knew nothing more till I woke to the consciousness that he was -lifting me up from where I was lying on the rocks, some 20 feet, I -suppose, lower than the point where we had been standing. I was -bleeding from a cut on the head, and my right arm was very painful, and -turned out afterwards to be broken. Gabriel said that he had been -knocked down also, but not rendered insensible, and, falling on his -hands towards the upward slope, was not hurt. He also said that he was -to a certain extent conscious of there having been a sudden glare and -explosion, but I knew nothing of it. The German and his two guides, who -at the time were just below the first summit, but not within sight of -us, were so alarmed at the lightning and thunder, that they turned at -once and never stopped till they reached Kurzras. The other party, who -had not got beyond the rocks where we halted during the ascent, waited -there for us, and Joseph Spechtenhauser, one of their guides, came to -meet us and see if we wanted assistance. However, I was quite myself -when I came to, which was directly Gabriel lifted me up, and the -mountain is so easy that my disabled arm was of little consequence. I -did not notice any more thunder or lightning after the flash that -knocked us down, and the day cleared up to a lovely one. I have every -reason to be pleased with Gabriel's kindness and attention to me without -regard to himself, and very much regret that my accident prevented me -from carrying out any of the other expeditions which I had promised -myself the pleasure of making in his company." - -One of the most exciting accounts of an adventure in the Alps is Mr -Tuckett's description of "A Race for Life,"[11] on the Eiger. Hardly -less stirring is a paper in _The Alpine Journal_ by the same famous -climber, from which he most kindly allows me to give a long quotation, -telling of a narrow escape during one of the most appalling -thunderstorms that could be experienced. The party were making the -ascent of the Roche Melon, a peak 11,593 feet high not far from the Mont -Cenis. The weather was unsettled, and grew worse as they mounted. - -"Proceeding very cautiously through the whirling wreaths of vapour lest -we should suddenly drop over upon Italy and hurt it--or ourselves--we -struck up the 'final incline'--as an American companion of mine once -dubbed the cone of Vesuvius as we looked down upon it from its rim--and -at 11.15 stood beside the ruins of the signal and enjoyed a very -magnificent view of nothing in particular. As we had plenty of time at -our disposal--three and a half hours sufficing for the descent to -Susa--and the wind was keen and damp, our first proceeding was to search -for the chapel, which we knew must be quite close to the summit of the -peak; and, about 30 feet lower down, on the southern side, which was -entirely free from snow, we came upon a tight little wooden building, -some 6 or 7 feet long and high by 5 broad, very carefully constructed, -with flat bands of thin iron on the outside covering the lines of -junction of the planks, so as effectually to keep out both wind and -moisture. Opposite the door, which we found carefully bolted, was a -wooden shelf against the wall serving as an altar, on which stood a -small bronze statuette of the Virgin, whilst on either hand hung the -usual curious medley of votive paintings, engravings, crosses, tapers -etc., not to mention certain pious scribblings. Taking great care to -disturb nothing, we arranged a loose board and our packs on the rather -damp floor so as to form a seat, and waited for the clouds to disperse -and disclose the superb panorama that we knew should here be visible. - -"Here I may be allowed to mention that a chapel, said to have been -originally excavated in the rock, and subsequently buried under ice or -snow, was here dedicated to the Virgin by a crusader of Asti, Boniface -by name, of the house of Rovero, in fulfilment of a vow made whilst a -captive in the hands of the Saracens. More recently the present wooden -structure has taken its place, and every year, on 5th August, pilgrims -resort to it in considerable numbers. Lower down on the Susa side is a -much more substantial structure, at a height of 9396 feet, called the C -d'Asti, in allusion to the circumstances of its foundation. The last is -a solidly, not to say massively, constructed circular edifice of stone -and mortar, some 15 or 16 feet in diameter, and perhaps rather more in -height, with a vaulted roof of solid masonry covered externally with -tiles, and surmounted by an iron cross. Seen from below, it stands out -boldly on a mass of crags which conceal the actual summit of the Roche -Melon, and close by are some low sheds, which appear ordinarily to serve -as shelter for flocks of sheep browsing on the grassy slopes around, but -on the night preceding the festa of 5th August, furnish sleeping -quarters for the assembled pilgrims, who attend mass in the adjoining -chapel, if the weather, as frequently happens, does not permit of its -being celebrated on the summit of the mountain, in what is probably the -most elevated shrine in Europe. - - * * * * * - -"The Roche Melon stands just in the track of the great storms which, -brewed in the heated plains of Lombardy and Piedmont, come surging up -through the valley of the Dora Riparia, and burst, hurling and crashing -over the depression of Mont Cenis, to find or make a watery grave in the -valley of the Arc. Of their combined fierceness and grandeur we were -soon to have only too favourable an opportunity of judging, for scarcely -more than five minutes after we had comfortably established ourselves -under shelter, suddenly, without a moment's warning, a perfect -_mitraille_ of hail smote the roof above us, tore through the mist like -grape-shot through battle-smoke, and whitened the ground like snow. We -closed the door carefully, for now came flash after flash of brilliant -lightning, with sharp, angry, snapping thunder, which, if we had been a -quarter of an hour later, would have made our position on the exposed -northern side anything but pleasant. We congratulated ourselves on our -good fortune, but were glad to pitch our axes amongst the _dbris_ of -rock above us and await patiently the hoped-for dispersal of the fog. In -a few minutes the hail ceased, the mist became somewhat brighter, rifts -appeared in all directions, and, issuing forth, we were amply rewarded -by such glimpses of the wonderful view as, if not fully satisfactory for -topographical purposes, were, in a picturesque and artistic point of -view, indescribably grand and interesting. The extent of level country -visible is a remarkable feature in the view from the Roche Melon, as -also in that from the summit of the Pourri, where Imseng not a little -amused me on first catching sight of the plains of France stretching -away till lost in the haze, by shouting in a fit of uncontrollable -enthusiasm, 'Ach! Das ist wunderschn!--ganz eben!'[12] - -"We had not had more than time enough to seize the general features of -the panorama and admire the special effects with their ever-changing and -kaleidoscopic combinations, when the mist once more swooped upon us, -again to be followed by hail, lightning, and thunder, and a fresh -clearance. But this second visitation left behind it a further souvenir -in the shape of a phenomenon with which most mountaineers are probably -more or less familiar, but which I never met with to the same extent -before--I allude to an electrified condition of the summit of the -mountain and all objects on its surface by conduction. As the clouds -swept by, every rock, every loose stone, the uprights of the rude -railing outside the chapel, the ruined signal, our axes, my lorgnette -and flask, and even my fingers and elbows, set up - - "'a dismal universal hiss.' - -It was as though we were in a vast nest of excited snakes, or a battery -of frying-pans, or listening at a short distance to the sustained note -of a band of _cigali_ in a chestnut wood--a mixture of comparisons which -may serve sufficiently to convey the impression that the general effect -was indescribable. I listened and looked and tried experiments for some -time, but suddenly it burst out with an energy that suggested a coming -explosion, or some equally unpleasant _dnouement_, and, dropping my -axe, to whose performance I had been listening, I fairly bolted for -the chapel. - -[Illustration: 13,300 FEET ABOVE THE SEA.] - -[Illustration: ON THE FURGGEN GRAT.] - -[Illustration: A "PERSONALLY CONDUCTED" PARTY ON THE BREITHORN.] - -[Illustration: PACKING THE KNAPSACK AFTER LUNCH. - -_To face p. 269._] - -"We had now spent a couple of hours on the summit, and had succeeded in -getting, bit by bit, a sight of most of the principal features of the -very remarkable view, with the exception of Monte Viso, which -persistently sulked; so at 1.15, as there seemed a probability of the -weather becoming worse before it improved, we quitted our excellent -shelter, and, after putting everything in order and carefully closing -and bolting the door, sallied forth into the mist, which was again -enshrouding the mountain, apparently as the advance guard of the -fiercest storm in the neighbourhood, which we had for some time been -watching as it swept solemnly towards us down the valley of the Dora. - -"There is a sort of track, rather than well-defined path, down the bare, -rocky, and _dbris_-covered southern face of the mountain, but in the -fog and momentarily increasing gloom of the coming tempest it was not -always very easy to distinguish it. Still, we descended rapidly, and in -less than half an hour had dropped down some 2000 feet to a point where, -during an instant's lift, we descried the outline of the C d'Asti five -minutes below us, just as the edge of the coming hail smote us with a -fury which it was hard at times to face. We dashed on--it was a regular -_sauve qui peut_--blinded and staggering under the pitiless pelting and -the fury of the blast, gained the door of the chapel, which faced the -storm, deposited our axes outside, and darted in, thankful again to find -ourselves under so good a roof just when it was most needed. - -"For, if there had been at times wild goings on upon the summit during -the morning, they were merely a faint prelude to the elemental strife -which now raged around. The wind roared and the hail hissed in fiendish -rivalry, and yet both seemed silenced when the awful crashes of thunder -burst above and about us. We were in the very central track and focus of -the storm, and, as we sat crouched upon the floor, the ground and the -building seemed to reel beneath the roar of the detonations, and our -heads almost to swim with the fierce glare of the lightning. I had -carefully closed the door, not only to keep the wind and hail out, but -also because lightning is apt to follow a current of air, and, to the -right on entering, at about the height of a man, was a small unglazed -window some 2 feet square. Opposite the door was the altar, on the step -of which I seated myself. Imseng took a place by my side, between me and -the window, whilst Christian perched himself on the coil of rope with -his back to the wall, not far from the door, and between it and the -window. A quarter of a hour may have gone by when a flash of intense -vividness seemed almost to dart through the window, and so affected -Imseng's nerves that he hastily quitted his seat by me and coiled -himself up near Christian, remarking that 'that was rather too close to -be pleasant.' Then came four more really awful flashes, followed all but -instantaneously by sharp, crackling thunder, which sounded like a volley -of bullets against a metal target, and then a fifth with a slightly -increased interval between it and the report. I was just remarking to -Christian that I thought the worst was past, and that we should soon be -liberated, adding, 'How fortunate we are for the second time to-day to -get such shelter just in the nick of time,' when--crash! went -everything, it seemed, all at once: - - "'No warning of the approach of flame, - Swiftly like sudden death it came.' - -If some one had struck me from behind on the bump of firmness with a -sledge-hammer, or if we had been in the interior of a gigantic -percussion shell which an external blow had suddenly exploded, I fancy -the sensation might have resembled that which I for the first instant -experienced. We were blinded, deafened, smothered, and struck, all in a -breath. The place seemed filled with fire, our ears rang with the -report, fragments of what looked like incandescent matter rained down -upon us as though a meteorite had burst, and a suffocating sulphurous -odour--probably due to the sudden production of ozone in large -quantities--almost choked us. For an instant we reeled as though -stunned, but each sprang to his feet and instinctively made for the -door. What my companions' ideas were I cannot tell; mine were few and -simple--I had been struck, or was being struck, or both; the roof would -be down upon us in another moment; inside was death, outside our only -safety. The door opened inwards, and our simultaneous rush delayed our -escape; but it was speedily thrown back, and, dashing out into the -blinding hail, we plunged, dazed and almost stupefied, into the nearest -shed. For the next few minutes the lightning continued to play about us -in so awful a manner that we were in no mood calmly to investigate the -nature or extent of our injuries. It was enough that we were still among -the living, though I must own that, at first, I had a fearful suspicion -that poor Imseng was seriously wounded. He held his head between his -hands, and rolled it about in so daft a manner, and was so odd and -unnatural in his movements generally, that it struck me his brain might -have received some injury. I, for my part, was painfully conscious of a -good deal of pain in the region of the right instep, and I saw that one -of Christian's hands was bleeding, and that he was holding both his -thighs as if in suffering. - -[Illustration: MONTE ROSA FROM THE FURGGEN GRAT.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE WELLENKUPPE. - -_To face p. 272_.] - -"Gradually the storm drew off towards the Mont Cenis, and, with minds -free from the tension of imminent peril, we had time to take stock of -our condition. It was a relief to see Imseng let go his head and -observe that it remained erect; to hear Christian say that his thighs -were getting better; and to find, on examining my foot, that the -mischief was nothing more than a flesh wound, which was bleeding but -slightly. My hat, indeed, was knocked in, my pockets filled with stones -and plaster, and my heart, it may be, somewhat nearer my mouth than -usual, but otherwise we could congratulate ourselves, with deep -thankfulness on a most marvellous escape from serious harm. - -"On comparing our impressions, Imseng declared that the lightning had -entered through the window, struck the altar, glanced off from it to the -wall, and then vanished, whilst Christian and I agreed in the belief -that the roof had been the part struck, and the flash had descended -almost vertically upon us. Quitting our place of refuge and repairing to -the chapel, we encountered a scene of ruin which at once confirmed the -correctness of our views. The lightning had evidently first struck the -iron cross outside and smashed in the roof, dashing fragments of stone -and plaster upon us which, brilliantly illuminated, looked to our dazed -and confused vision like flakes of fiery matter. It had then encountered -the altar, overturning the iron cross and wooden candlesticks only 3 -feet from the back of my head as I sat on the step, tearing the wreath -of artificial flowers or worsted rosettes strung on copper wire which -surrounded the figure of the Virgin, and scattering the fragments in all -directions. Next it glanced against the wall, tore down, or otherwise -damaged, some of the votive pictures (engravings), and splintered -portions of their frames into 'matchwood.' The odour of ozone was still -strong, the water from the melting hail was coming freely through the -roof, and the walls were in two places cracked to within 5 feet of the -ground. In fact, as a chapel, the building was ruined, though showing -little traces, externally, of the damage done, so that it is -possible--unless a stray shepherd happened to look in--that its -condition would for the first time become known upon the arrival of the -pilgrims on the eve of 5th August. - -"We stood long watching our departing foe, and then three very sobered -men dropped down silently and quickly that afternoon upon Susa, thinking -of what might have been our fate." - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -LANDSLIPS IN THE MOUNTAINS - - -"Sir W. Martin Conway has been good enough to allow me to extract from -_The Alps from End to End_ the following account of the destruction of -Elm. Mountain falls have a special interest for all who travel in -Switzerland, where the remains of so many are visible. - -"The Himalayas are, from a geological point of view, a young set of -mountain ranges; they still tumble about on an embarrassingly large -scale. The fall, which recently made such a stir, began on 6th September -1893. That day the Maithana Hill (11,000 feet), a spur of a large -mountain mass, pitched bodily rather than slid, into the valley. - -"'Little could be seen of the terrible occurrence, for clouds of dust -instantly arose, which darkened the neighbourhood and fell for miles -around, whitening the ground and the trees until all seemed to be snow -covered. The foot of the hill had been undermined by springs until there -was no longer an adequate base, and in the twinkling of an eye a large -part of the mountain slid down, pushed forward, and shot across the -valley, presenting to the little river a lofty and impervious wall, -against which its waters afterwards gathered. Masses of rocks were -hurled a mile away, and knocked down trees on the slopes across the -valley. Many blocks of dolomitic limestone, weighing from 30 to 50 tons, -were sent like cannon-shots through the air. The noise was terrific, and -the frightened natives heard the din repeated at intervals for several -days, for the first catastrophe was succeeded by a number of smaller -slides. Even five months after the mountain gave way, every rainy day -was succeeded by falls of rocks. A careful computation gives the weight -of the enormous pile of rubbish at 800,000,000 tons.' - -"The Himalayas are indeed passing through their dramatic geological -period, when they give rise to such landslips as this at relatively -frequent intervals. Plenty of landslips quite as big have been recorded -in the last half-century, and, amongst the remote and uninhabited -regions of the great ranges, numbers more of which no record is made -constantly happen. The catastrophic period has ended for the Alps. -Landslips on a great scale seldom occur there now; when they do occur, -the cause of them is oftener the activity of man than of natural forces. -But of a great landslip in the Alps details are sure to be observed, and -we are enabled to form a picture of the occurrence. When the Alps -tremble the nations quake; the Himalayas may shudder in their solitudes, -but the busy occidental world pays scant attention, unless gathering -waters threaten to spread ruin afar. Of the Gohna Lake we have been told -much, but little of the fall that caused it. Eye-witnesses appear not to -have been articulate. We can, however, form some idea of what it was -like from the minute and accurate account we possess of a great and -famous Alpine landslip. I refer to that which buried part of the village -of Elm, in Canton Glarus, on 11th September 1881.[13] - -"Elm is the highest village in the Sernf Valley. Its position is fixed -by the proximity of a meadow-flat of considerable extent. Above this -three minor valleys radiate, two of which are separated from one another -by a mountain mass, whose last buttress was the Plattenbergkopf, a hill -with a precipitous side and a flat and wooded summit, which used to face -the traveller coming up the main valley. It was this hill that fell. - -"The cause of the fall was simple, and reflects little credit on Swiss -communal government. About half-way up the hill there dips into it a bed -of fine slate, excellent for school-slates. In the year 1868 concessions -were given by the commune for working this slate for ten years without -any stipulation as to the method to be employed. Immense masses of the -rock were removed. A hole was made 180 mtres wide, and no supports were -left for the roof. It was pushed into the mountain to a depth of 65 -mtres! In 1878, when the concessions lapsed, the commune, by a small -majority, decided to work the quarry itself. Every burgher considered -that he had a right to work in the quarry when the weather was -unsuitable for farm labour. The place was therefore overcrowded on wet -days, and burdened with unskilful hands. The quarry, of course, did not -pay, and became a charge on the rates, but between eighty and one -hundred men drew wages from it intermittently. - -"The roof by degrees became visibly rotten. Lumps of rock used to fall -from it, and many fatal accidents occurred. The mass of the mountain -above the quarry showed a tendency to grow unstable, yet blasting went -forward merrily, and no precautions were taken. Cracks opened overhead -in all directions; water and earth used to ooze down through them. -Fifteen hundred feet higher up, above the top of the Plattenbergkopf, -the ground began to be rifted. In 1876 a large crack split the rock -across above the quarry roof, and four years later the mass thus -outlined fell away. In 1879 serious signs were detected of coming ruin -on a large scale. A great crack split the mountain across behind the -top of the hill. The existence of this crack was well known to the -villagers, who had a special name for it. It steadily lengthened and -widened. By August 1881 it was over four mtres wide, and swallowed up -all the surface drainage. Every one seems then to have agreed that the -mountain would ultimately fall, but no one was anxious. The last part of -August and the first days of September were very wet. On 7th September -masses of rock began to fall from the hill; more fell on the 8th, and -strange sounds were heard in the body of the rock; work was at last -suspended in the quarry. On the 10th a commission of incompetent people -investigated the hill, and pronounced that there was no immediate -danger. They, however, ordered that work should cease in the quarry till -the following spring, whereat the workmen murmured. All through the 10th -and the morning of the 11th falls of rock occurred every quarter of an -hour or so. Some were large. They kept coming from new places. The -mountain groaned and rumbled incessantly, and there was no longer any -doubt that it was rotten through and through. - -"The 11th of September was a wet Sunday. Rocks and rock-masses kept -falling from the Plattenberg. The boys of the village were all agog with -excitement, and could hardly be prevented by their parents from going -too near the hill. In the afternoon a number of men gathered at an inn -in the upper village, just at the foot of the labouring rocks, to watch -the falls. They called to Meinrad Rhyner, as he passed, carrying a -cheese from an alp, to join them, but he refused, 'not fearing for -himself, but for the cheese.' Another group of persons assembled in a -relative's house to celebrate a christening. A few houses immediately -below the quarry were emptied, but the people from them did not move -far. At four o'clock Schoolmaster Wyss was standing at his window, watch -in hand, registering the falls and the time of their occurrence. -Huntsman Elmer was on his doorstep looking at the quarry through a -telescope. Every one was more or less on the _qui vive_, but none -foresaw danger to himself. - -"Many of the people in the lower village, called Msli, which was the -best part of a mile distant from the quarry, and separated from it by a -large flat area, were quite uninterested. They were making coffee, -milking cows, and doing the like small domestic business. - -"Suddenly, at a quarter past five, a mass of the mountain broke away -from the Plattenbergkopf. The ground bent and broke up, the trees upon -it nodded, and folded together, and the rock engulfed them in its bosom -as it crashed down over the quarry, shot across the streams, dashing -their water in the air, and spread itself out upon the flat. A -greyish-black cloud hovered for a while over the ruin, and slowly passed -away. No one was killed by this fall, though the _dbris_ reached within -a dozen yards of the inn where the sightseers were gathered. The -inhabitants of the upper village now began to be a little frightened. -They made preparations for moving the aged and sick persons, and some of -their effects. People also came up from the lower villages to help, and -to see the extent of the calamity. Others came together to talk, and the -visitors who had quitted the inn returned to it. Some went into their -houses to shut the windows and keep out the dust. No one was in any -hurry. - -"This first fall came from the east side of the Plattenbergkopf; -seventeen minutes later a second and larger fall descended from the west -side. The gashes made by the two united below the peak, and left its -enormous mass isolated and without support. The second fall must have -been of a startling character, for Schoolmaster Wyss forgot his watch -after it. It overwhelmed the inn and four other houses, killed a score -of persons, and drove terror into all beholders, so that they started -running up the opposite hill. Oswald Kubli, one of the last to leave the -inn, saw this fall from close at hand. He was standing outside the inn -when he heard some one cry out: 'My God, here comes the whole thing -down!' Every one fled, most making for the Dniberg. 'I made four or -five strides, and then a stone struck Geiger and he fell without a word. -Pieces from the ruined inn flew over my head. My brother Jacob was -knocked down by them.' Again a dark cloud of dust enveloped the ruin. As -it cleared off, Huntsman Elmer could see, through his glass, the people -racing up the hill (the Dniberg) 'like a herd of terrified chamois.' -When they had reached a certain height most of them stood still and -looked back. Some halted to help their friends, others to take breath. - -"'Of those who were before me,' relates Meinrad Rhyner, 'some were for -turning back to the valley to render help, but I called to them to fly. -Heinrich Elmer was carrying boxes, and was only twenty paces behind me -when he was killed. There were also an old man and woman, who were -helping along their brother, eighty years old; they might have been -saved if they had left him. I ran by them, and urged them to hasten.' - -"Of all who took refuge on the Dniberg, only six escaped destruction by -the third fall, and they held on their way, and went empty-handed. Ruin -overtook the kind and the covetous together. - -"At this time, before the third fall, fear came also upon the cattle. A -cow, grazing far down the valley, bellowed aloud and started running for -the hillside with tail out-straightened. She reached a place of safety -before her meadow was overwhelmed. Cats and chickens likewise saved -themselves, and two goats sought and found salvation on the steps of the -parsonage. - -"During the four minutes that followed the second fall every one seems -to have been running about, with a tendency, as the moments passed, to -conclude that the worst was over. Then those who were watching the -mountain from a distance beheld the whole upper portion of the -Plattenbergkopf, 10,000,000 cubic mtres of rock, suddenly shoot from -the hillside. The forest upon it bent 'like a field of corn in the -wind,' before being swallowed up. 'The trees became mingled together -like a flock of sheep.' The hillside was all in movement, and 'all its -parts were playing together.' The mass slid, or rather shot down, with -extraordinary velocity, till its foot reached the quarry. Then the upper -part pitched forward horizontally, straight across the valley and on to -the Dniberg. People in suitable positions could at this moment clearly -see through beneath it to the hillside beyond. They also saw the people -in the upper village, and on the Dniberg, racing about wildly. No -individual masses of rock could be seen in the avalanche, except from -near at hand; it was a dense cloud of stone, sharply outlined below, -rounded above. The falling mass looked so vast that Schoolmaster Wyss -thought it was going to fill up the whole valley. A cloud of dust -accompanied it, and a great wind was flung before it. This wind swept -across the valley and overthrew the houses in its path 'like haycocks.' -The roofs were lifted first, and carried far, then the wooden portions -of the houses were borne bodily through the air, 'just as an autumn -storm first drives off the leaves and then the dead branches themselves -from the trees.' In many cases wooden ruins were dropped from the air on -to the top of the stone _dbris_ when the fall was at an end. -Eye-witnesses say that trees were blown about 'like matches,' that -houses were 'lifted through the air like feathers,' and 'thrown like -cards against the hillside,' 'that they bent, trembled, and then broke -up like little toys' before the avalanche came to them. Hay, furniture, -and the bodies of men were mixed with the house-ruins in the air. Some -persons were cast down by the blast and raised again. Others were -carried through the air and deposited in safe positions; others, again, -were hurled upward to destruction and dropped in a shattered state as -much as a hundred mtres away. Huntsman Elmer relates as follows: - -"'My son Peter was in Msli (nearly a mile from the quarry) with his -wife and child. He sought to escape with them by running. On coming to a -wall, he took the child from his wife and leaped over. Turning round, he -saw the woman reach out her hand to another child. At that moment the -wind lifted him, and he was borne up the hillside. My married daughter, -also in Msli, fled with two children. She held the younger in her arms -and led the other. This one was snatched away from her, but she found -herself, not knowing how, some distance up the hillside, lying on the -ground face downwards, with the baby beneath her, both uninjured.' - -"The avalanche, as has been said, shot with incredible swiftness -horizontally across the valley. It pitched on to the Dniberg, struck it -obliquely, and was thus deflected down the level and fertile -valley-floor, which it covered in a few seconds, to the distance of -nearly a mile and over its whole width, with a mass of rock _dbris_ -more than 30 feet thick. Most of the people on the hillside were -instantly killed, the avalanche falling on to them and crushing them -flat, 'as an insect is crushed into a red streak under a man's foot.' -Only six persons here escaped. Two of them were almost reached by the -rocks, the others were whirled aloft through the air and deposited in -different directions. One survivor describes how the dust-cloud overtook -him, 'and came between him and his breath!' He sank face downwards on -the ground, feeling powerless to go further. Looking back, he saw -'stones flying above the dust-cloud. In a moment all seemed to be over. -I stood up and climbed a few yards to a spring of water to wash out the -dust, which filled my mouth and nose' (all survivors on the Dniberg had -the same experience). 'All round was dark and buried in dust.' - -"It was only when the avalanche had struck the Dniberg and began to -turn aside from it--the work of a second or two--that the people in the -lower village, far down along the level plain, had any suspicion that -they were in danger. Twenty seconds later all was over. Some of them who -were on a bridge had just time to run aside, not a hundred yards, and -were saved, but most were killed where they stood. The avalanche swept -away half the village. Its sharply defined edge cut one house in two. -All within the edge were destroyed, all without were saved. Almost the -only persons wounded were those in the bisected house. Huntsman Elmer -with his telescope, and Schoolmaster Wyss with his watch, whose houses -were just beyond the area of ruin, beheld the dust-cloud come rolling -along, 'like smoke from a cannon's mouth, but black,' filling the whole -width of the flat valley to about twice the height of a house. The din -seemed to them not very great, and the wind, which, in front of the -cloud, carried the houses away like matchwood, did not reach them. -Others describe the crash and thunder of the fall as terrific; it -affected people differently. All agree that it swallowed up every other -sound, so that shrieks of persons near at hand were inaudible. The mass -seemed to slide or shoot along the ground rather than to roll. One or -two men had a race for life and won it, but most failed to escape who -were not already in a place of safety. Fridolin Rhyner, an -eleven-year-old boy, kept his head better than any one else in the -village, and succeeded in eluding the fall. He saw, too, 'how Kaspar -Zentner reached the bridge as the fall took place, and how he started -running as fast as he could, but was caught by the flood of rocks near -Rhyner's house; he jumped aside, however, into a field, limped across -it, got over the wall into the road, and so just escaped.' - -"The last phase of the catastrophe is the hardest to imagine, and was -the most difficult to foresee. The actual facts are these. Ten million -cubic mtres of rock fell down a depth (on an average) of about 450 -mtres, shot across the valley and up the opposite (Dniberg) slope to a -height of 100 mtres, where they were bent 25 out of their first -direction, and poured, almost like a liquid, over a horizontal plane, -covering it, uniformly, throughout a distance of 1500 mtres and over an -area of about 900,000 square mtres to a depth of from 10 to 20 mtres. -The internal friction of the mass and the friction between it and the -ground were insignificant forces compared with the tremendous momentum -that was generated by the fall. The stuff flowed like a liquid. No -wonder the parson, seeing the dust-cloud rolling down the valley, -thought it was only dust that went so far. His horror, when the cloud -cleared off and he beheld the solid grey carpet, beneath which one -hundred and fifteen of his flock were buried with their houses and their -fields, may be imagined. He turned his eyes to the hills, and lo! the -familiar Plattenbergkopf had vanished and a hole was in its place. - -"The roar of the fall ceased suddenly. Silence and stillness supervened. -Survivors stood stunned where they were. Nothing moved. Then a great cry -and wailing arose in the part of the village that was left. People began -to run wildly about, some down the valley, some up. As the dust-cloud -grew thinner the wall-like side of the ruin appeared. It was quite dry. -All the grass and trees in the neighbourhood were white with dust. Those -who beheld the catastrophe from a distance hurried down to look for -their friends. Amongst them was Burkhard Rhyner, whose house was -untouched at the edge of the _dbris_. He ran to it and found, he said, -'the doors open, a fire burning in the kitchen, the table laid, and -coffee hot in the coffee-pot, but no living soul was left.' All had run -forth to help or see, and been overwhelmed--wife, daughter, son, son's -wife, and two grandchildren. 'I am the sole survivor of my family.' Few -were the wounded requiring succour; few the dead whose bodies could be -recovered. Here and there lay a limb or a trunk. On the top of one of -the highest _dbris_ mounds was a head severed from its body, but -otherwise uninjured. Every dead face that was not destroyed wore a look -of utmost terror. The crushed remains of a youth still guarded with -fragmentary arms the body of a little child. There were horrors enough -for the survivors to endure. The memory of them is fresh in their minds -to the present day. - -"Such was the great catastrophe of Elm. The hollow in the hills, whence -the avalanche fell, can still be seen, and the pile of ruin against and -below the Dniberg; but almost all the rest of the _dbris_-covered area -has been reclaimed and now carries fields, which were ripening to -harvest when I saw them. The fallen rocks, some big as houses, have been -blasted level; soil has been carried from afar and spread over the ruin. -A channel, 40 feet deep or more, has been cut through it for the river, -so that the structure of the rock-blanket can still be seen. The roots -of young trees now grasp stones that took part in that appalling flight -from their old bed of thousands of years to their present place of -repose. The valley has its harvests again, and the villagers go about -their work as their forefathers did, but they remember the day of their -visitation, and to the stranger coming amongst them they tell the tragic -tale with tears in their eyes and white horror upon their faces." - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -SOME TERRIBLE EXPERIENCES - - -All must have noticed, summer after summer, in the daily papers, a -recital from time to time under some such heading as, "Perils of the -Alps," of a variety of disasters to Germans or Austrians on mountains -the names of which are unfamiliar to English people or even to English -climbers. Many young men, of little leisure and of slight means, develop -a passionate love for the peaks of their native land. The minor ranges -of Austria and Germany offer few difficulties to really first-class, -properly equipped parties, but nasty places can be found on most of -them, and the very fact that they do not boast of glaciers removes the -chief argument against solitary ascents. - -The Rax, near Vienna, is a mountain which can be reached in a few hours -from that city, and while a good path has been laid out to the summit, -many other routes requiring climbing--by climbing I mean the use of the -hands--are available for the hardier class of tourists. One route in -particular, that from the Kaiserbrunn through the Wolfsthal, appears to -be really difficult, and is unfit for a man to ascend alone unless he is -a climber of great skill. A terrible experience fell to the lot of a -young Viennese compositor, employed on the _Neue Freie Presse_, and by -name Emil Habl. He set out by himself to make the expedition referred -to, and, having fallen and broken his leg, he managed, thanks to his -pluck and endurance, to escape with his life. "Despite injuries which -made it impossible for him to stand," says a writer in one of Messrs -Newnes' publications, from which I am courteously permitted to quote, -"he yet succeeded in conveying himself from the scene of his accident -into the valley in the neighbourhood of human dwellings. Three dreadful -days and three awful nights lasted that memorable descent--a descent -which can easily be made in two hours by any one able to walk. It may -almost certainly be said that the case is without a parallel in the -annals of Alpine accidents." - -Herr Habl had ascended the Rax on previous occasions, and twice before -by the Wolfsthal. It is the custom on many of the easier Austrian -mountains to mark the way by painted strips on the rocks. These are -sometimes very useful, but occasionally they tempt the tourist into -tracks which may be beyond his powers, or lure him on till, at last, -losing sight of them, he is induced to strike out a route--and perhaps -an impracticable one--for himself. The Wolfsthal route up the Rax is -marked in green, but the paint had worn off in many places, and after a -time Herr Habl could no longer trace it. At last the way was barred by a -precipice, but while pausing in uncertainty beneath it, the climber -noticed two iron clamps fixed far apart on the face of the cliff, and -argued that they must at one time have supported ladders and formed, -perhaps, part of a hunter's path. He made an attempt to scramble up the -rock, in spite of the absence of the ladder, but when more than 30 feet -up saw that it was impossible to scale it. He therefore determined to -return, but a loose stone, giving way beneath him, he was precipitated -from his precarious hold, and fell with a crash straight to the bottom. -This happened at about 7.30 A.M., and for a long time he lay -unconscious. When he came to himself again he was suffering greatly. - -"The first thing I noticed," he says, "was a terrible pain in my right -leg, my head, and left side; I was also bleeding profusely from several -wounds. At the same time, considering the fearful fall I had had, I felt -thankful I had not been killed outright. On trying to get up I -discovered, to my utter horror, that I had broken my right shin-bone. It -was quite impossible to rise. The break was about 6 inches below the -knee, and at the first glance I knew it to be a very bad fracture. It -was what the doctors call an 'open' fracture--that is, the bone -projected through the skin." - -It was in vain that he shouted for help. Tourists seldom pass that way, -and it was useless to expect any one to hear him. To make matters worse, -the weather had changed, and rain now fell heavily. But Herr Habl did -not lose courage. He writes: "Unless I wanted miserably to die a -long-drawn-out, hideous death from hunger and thirst, I knew _I must -save myself_. I decided not to lose another moment in fruitless -brooding, and waiting, and shouting, but to act at once. - -"I perceived that first of all I must set my broken leg and bandage it -in some rough fashion. In spite of the agony it caused me, I rolled over -and over the ground in different directions like a bale of goods--a few -yards here and a few yards there--until I had collected a sufficient -quantity of fallen branches, bits of fir and moss; this strange -collecting process took me some hours. The next thing was to tear off -the sleeves of my shirt and such other parts of my underwear as I could -spare. On my mountain excursions I always took with me a box containing -iodoform gauze and cambric; and now these things were more than welcome. - -"At last, then, I was ready to begin the operation. But, good heavens, -what agony! My deadliest enemy I would not wish such excruciating pains -as I suffered when setting the poor splintered bone--which, be it -remembered, was not broken straight across. The dreadful splinters, -indeed, dug deep into my flesh. Not regarding the pain (although nearly -fainting therewith) I exerted my whole force, and at last succeeded in -getting the bone into what, as far as I could judge, was its right -position. Then I wound the iodoform gauze round it, and over that I put -the cambric, the bits of underclothing, and a layer of moss. Next in the -queer operation came my alpenstock and some boughs in place of splints; -and finally I tied the whole together with the string, my hat-line, and -neck-tie." - -During the rest of the day the agonising descent continued, down rocks -which were difficult even for a sound man to ascend. As evening -approached Herr Habl bethought him of the need of food, but, alas! all -was gone from his knapsack, doubtless left at the spot where the -bandages had been put on. To regain this point was out of the question, -so berries and leaves were resorted to, to appease the craving of -hunger. - -That night was passed in pain and weariness. The rain never ceased, the -poor wounded man was soaked to the skin. The next day, from dawn to dark -the fearful descent continued, and was followed by another night of -indescribable misery. The morning after Herr Habl could hardly drag -himself a yard, and the temptation to lie down and await the end was -very great. Still, for the sake of his parents at home, he continued his -efforts, though bleeding now from the contact of the sharp rocks over -which he pushed himself in a half-lying, half-sitting posture. By four -o'clock that afternoon it seemed as if human endurance could bear no -more, and for two hours he lay in an awful apathy he could not shake -off. Then, when all hope seemed over, help came, for he heard the sound -of human voices, and this so stirred him that once more he began to -crawl downward, though unable to obtain any reply to his cries for -assistance. Another night passed, and during it, for the first time, he -got some sleep. The next morning, he once more dragged his poor -lacerated body downwards and at last came in sight of some houses. -Calling feebly for help, he was delighted beyond measure to receive an -answer, and soon he was carried to Htel Kaiserbrunn, and the same -evening transported to the hospital at Vienna. He concludes his most -interesting account by remarking: "I do not think that my accident, -terrible as it is, has cured me of my love of mountaineering. But -certainly the remembrance of those three terrible days and nights will -deter me from again undertaking difficult climbs by myself." - -[Illustration: A GLACIER LAKE. By Royston Le Blond.] - -[Illustration: TAKING OFF THE ROPE AT THE END OF THE CLIMB.] - -[Illustration: AMONGST THE SRACS.] - -[Illustration: WATER AT LAST. - -_To face p. 297._] - -An adventure, having a happier termination, befell some friends of mine -in the Bregaglia group, owing to the marking of a route with paint. -The district was but little known to them, so they were glad to follow -where the marks led. One of the party, writing in _The Alpine Journal_, -says: - -"The descent began by a grass ledge. After a few yards this was suddenly -closed by overhanging rocks. Franois, who was first, appeared to us to -plunge down a precipice. He answered our criticism by pointing to the -red triangles. They indicated the only means of advance. It was -requisite to go down a dozen feet of nearly vertical rock by the help of -two grass tufts, and then for several yards to walk across a horizontal -crack which gave foot-hold varying from 2 inches to nothing. Nominal -support--help in balance--could be gained at first by digging axes into -grass overhead; further on hand-hold was obtainable. Franois walked -across without a moment's hesitation, but we did not despise the rope. -This _mauvais pas_ would not, perhaps, trouble younger cragsmen. It came -upon us unprepared and when somewhat tired. But to indicate a route -including such an obstacle to unsuspecting tourists as a Station Path is -surely rash. A practical joke that may lead to fatal results should only -be resorted to under exceptional circumstances--as, for example, in the -case of an hotel bore. There can be little doubt that in this instance -the Milanese section entrusted their paint-pot to a conscious, if -unconscientious, humorist; for we found afterwards that he had continued -his triangles through the village, along the high road, and finished up -only on the ticket office." - -The following terrible experience did not, it is true, happen to a party -of mountaineers, but as _The Alpine Journal_, from which I take my -account, has considered a notice of it appropriate to its pages, I -include it amongst my tales. - -"A distinguished aeronaut, Captain Charbonnet, of Lyons, married a young -girl from Turin. On the evening of their wedding, in October, 1893, they -set out in Captain Charbonnet's balloon 'Stella,' and covered about 10 -miles on their way towards Lyons. - -"Next morning, accompanied by two young Italians named Durando and -Botto, one of whom had made many previous ascents with Captain -Charbonnet, they started again. Stormy weather seemed to be brewing, and -after rising to a height of 3000 mtres they were caught in a current. -At Saluggia they nearly touched ground, then leapt up again to 4000, and -presently to 6000 mtres. About 2.30 P.M. the balloon began to descend -rapidly, and they had some difficulty in stopping it at 3000 mtres. - -[Illustration: The balloon "Stella" starting from Zermatt to make the -first passage of the Alps by balloon. - -_To face page 293._] - -[Illustration: A moment after the balloon started.] - -"Here they were in dense clouds, and bitterly cold; quite ignorant, -moreover, of their position. Captain Charbonnet made his crew lie -down in the car, himself leaning out in order to try if he could catch a -glimpse of any point from which he could learn his bearings. The balloon -was drifting at a great rate, and nothing could be done to check it. -Presently there was a shock, and Captain Charbonnet was thrown to the -bottom of the car, by a heavy blow over his left eye. - -"The balloon rebounded, and dashing across a gully struck the other side -of it, and it finally settled down on a steep rocky spur on the east -side of the Bessanese (3632 mtres = 11,917 feet), just above the small -glacier of Salau. It had struck the wall of the mountain which faces the -Rifugio Gastaldi, at a height of about 3000 mtres (9843 feet). - -"The aeronauts reached the ground a good deal shaken and bruised, but -none of them, except the leader, suffering from any serious injuries.... -Their sole provision was one bottle of wine; but they were fairly well -off for covering, and they cut up the balloon to supply deficiencies. In -the night a violent storm came on, to add to their misery. In spite of -his injuries, Captain Charbonnet kept up the spirits of his companions -as well as might be, but towards morning his powers failed, and when day -dawned his young wife, a girl of eighteen, had some difficulty in -bringing him round. - -"They started to descend the snow-slope, Durando going first, and making -steps to the best of his power with his feet 'and with a long key which -he happened to have in his pocket.' Of course they had neither nails nor -poles; and, by a fatal imprudence, they did not tie themselves together, -though ropes must have been in plenty in the wreck of the balloon. - -"Presently Charbonnet slipped. He was held up by his wife and Botto; but -a few minutes later he disappeared into a hidden crevasse. The others -could see him far below, but as he neither moved nor answered their -call, they rightly assumed that he was beyond the reach of any human -help, and proceeded downwards. - -"With infinite difficulty, owing to their utter ignorance of the -country, and after another night spent in the open air, they found a -path which brought them to the hut under the Rocca Venoni. Thence a -shepherd guided them to the Cantina della Mussa, where they were at -first taken for deserters or spies; the lady, it should be said, had -been obliged to put on a suit of her husband's clothes, her own having -been torn to pieces. - -"The sight of her hair and bracelets convinced the inhabitants of the -true state of the case; a telegram was sent to Turin, and a message to -Balme, and a search party came up from the latter place in the -afternoon. Captain Charbonnet's body was recovered the next day. It was -found at the bottom of a crevasse more than 60 feet deep, and completely -doubled up; but medical examination showed that his death was primarily -due to the injury received when the balloon first struck." - -The first passage of the Alps by balloon was made in September 1903, by -Captain Spelterini, of Zrich, accompanied by Dr Hermann Seiler and -another friend. They started from Zermatt, crossed the Mischabel group, -passed over the valley of Saas, then rose above the Weissmies range, and -approached the Lago Maggiore so closely that they were able to converse -with the passengers of a steamer. They then rose again and spent the -night above the mountains not far from the Gotthard. The next day it -would have been possible to clear the Bernese Alps and descend somewhere -near Lucerne, but though Dr Seiler, who is a climber and was fully -equipped for a descent above the snow line, urged the attempt being made -to cross the chain, Captain Spelterini and his friend, unused to the -aspect of the higher peaks, considered it more prudent to descend, and -so the expedition came to an end after twenty hours aloft, during which -no discomfort from cold was experienced. - -When an accident happens in the Alps involving loss of life, it is not -difficult to learn whatever facts may be known with regard to it, but -when climbers have a narrow escape from death the occurrence is often -hushed up and nothing said or written about the matter. And yet it is -just the narrow escapes that furnish the most interesting Alpine -narratives. Amongst them are few more exciting than a mishap on the -Matterhorn which happened in 1895, and is admirably described by an -onlooker, Mr Ernest Elliot Stock, in the pages of one of Messrs Newnes' -periodicals, from which I am courteously permitted to quote a portion of -the tale. - -Mr Stock's party consisted of himself, his sister, Mr Grogan (the -well-known traveller who first crossed Africa from South to North), Mr -Broadbent, and the guides, P. A. and Alois Biner, Peter Perrin, and -Zurmatter. An American of no climbing experience, with Joseph Biner and -Felix Julen, was on the mountain at the same time, and both parties -having made the ascent by the ordinary route, were coming down the same -way, and had descended in safety to just below "Moseley's Platte" when -the incident which so nearly cost them their lives took place. They were -on a steep slope, and the American party was slightly in advance. Mr -Stock writes: - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE HRNLI RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE FURGG GLACIER.] - -[Illustration: JOSEPH BINER.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN HUT. - -_To face p. 302_] - -"We had been working slowly, and at a slight zig-zag, down this for some -150 feet, only one member of the party moving at a time, and keeping -carefully within the steps cut by the leader, when suddenly a flat -stone, some 6 inches across, became detached from a small pile either to -the side of or directly behind me--possibly loosened by our passage or -picked up by the rope as it tautened between myself and Peter Biner, who -came next. Peter's cry of warning was echoed by his brother at the tail -of the party, and I half turned to see it slipping past on the right. - -"Reaching out with my axe I endeavoured to stop it, but its impetus had -become too great. Getting upon its edge it rolled and struck a small -rock; then jumped some 20 feet down the ice-slope, narrowly missing -Perrin and 'America,' and struck again upon a larger and flatter rock, -when, amidst a flight of smaller stones, it bounded outwards and -downwards, striking the leading guide, Joseph Biner, full and square on -the head. He fell as though he had been shot, dragging 'America' after -him amidst a perfect shower of snow and stones. Julen, who came third, -with the greatest presence of mind drove his ice-axe hard and deep into -the ice, took a turn round it with his left arm, and, though dragged -violently from his steps, to our intense relief held on. - -"But we were in an awkward plight. Poor Joseph half lay, half hung, -without movement, at the end of some 30 feet of rope, bleeding copiously -from a deep gash in the head and another across the forehead caused by -his fall; 'America' clung to a small rock projecting from the snow, -beating a tattoo with his boots on the ice and wailing dismally; Julen -held the two by favour of his ice-axe and firmly planted feet only. For -a space no one moved, excepting to get such anchorage as was possible -upon the spur of the moment, each expecting a rope-jerk, the forerunner -of a swift and battered end in the ice-fall of the Furgg Glacier -thousands of feet below. - -"The guides for a time seemed utterly stunned by the catastrophe, and to -all suggestions could only reply with muttered prayers and exclamations. -So exasperating did this become at last, with the thought of the man -below bleeding to death, if not dead already, that Mr Grogan, who had -vainly been endeavouring to bring the guides to a sense of the position, -quietly slipped the rope, and, amid a storm of protest from them, -traversed out some distance to avoid a patch of loose stones, and -descended inwards again, cutting his steps as he went, till he reached a -spot immediately below the wounded man. Poor Joseph hung with his head -buried in a patch of snow, and in an extremely awkward position to reach -from above. Mr Grogan, however, refused to be daunted by the -difficulties, and we were treated to a fine piece of ice-craft during -his descent." - -After a little time Mr Grogan managed to cut a seat in the slope of ice -and placing the still breathing but insensible man in it, he bandaged -the wounds on his head, and before long had the satisfaction of seeing -him recover his senses. With great difficulty, as he was very weak and -shaken, poor Joseph was helped down the mountain, and at last every one -arrived safe and sound at the lower hut. - -There is no doubt that Joseph owed his life to Mr Grogan's skill, -promptness, and courage. Had the travellers in the party following -"America's" been of the usual type of tourist, who is hauled up and let -down the Matterhorn, one dare not think what would probably have been -the result, for the description Mr Stock gives of the behaviour of his -guides seems in no way exaggerated. I edit this account in sight of the -very spot where the accident occurred, and I have made careful enquiries -here as to the accuracy of the story, and am assured that it is true in -every detail. It is a pleasure to feel that a fellow-countryman should -show so brilliant an example to those who were not willing and probably -would have hardly been able to rescue their comrade, although to attempt -such a task was one of the prior obligations of their profession. - -To be bombarded by falling stones in the Alps is bad enough. To be -hurled from one's foot-hold by a flock of eagles seems to me even more -appalling. Though on one occasion, when on the slopes of a bleak and -rocky peak in Lapland, in company with my husband, a pair of eagles came -screaming so close to us that we drove them away by brandishing our -ice-axes and throwing stones at them, I did not till recently believe -that there could be positive danger to a climbing party from an -onslaught by these birds. It was only a few weeks ago that taking up one -of Messrs Newnes' publications I came upon an account of a tragedy in -the Maritime Alps caused by an attack from eagles. On applying to the -editor of the magazine in question, he kindly allowed me to make some -extracts from a striking article by Mons. Antoine Neyssel. This -gentleman with a friend, Mons. Joseph Monand, was making a series of -ascents in the Maritime Alps with Sospello as their headquarters. From -here they took a couple of guides and got all ready for a climb on the -following morning, 23rd July. During the evening the amazing news -reached them that a postman, while crossing a high pass, had been -attacked and nearly killed by eagles. They at once went into the cottage -where the poor man lay unconscious on two chairs, a pool of blood -beneath him and his clothes torn to ribbons. A few days later he died -from the terrible injuries he had received. - -Though much shocked at the sad event, the climbers believed that their -party of four would be quite safe, for each man had an ice-axe and some -carried rifles. So the next morning they set out, and, ascending higher -and higher, reached the glacier and put on the rope. They had forgotten -all about the ferocious birds when suddenly, as they traversed the upper -edge of a crevasse near the summit of their peak, the leading guide -stopped with an exclamation of horror. Close to them the ground was -strewn with feathers and marked with blood, doubtless the spot where the -postman was attacked. They passed on, however, and remembering that they -were a party of four, felt reassured. But soon after weird cries came to -their ears from below, followed by the whirr and beating of great wings. -Looking cautiously over the abyss, they saw a fight of eagles in -progress; feathers flew in the air and strange sounds came out of the -seething mass. It seemed to rise towards them, and in their insecure -position on the edge of a crevasse, they were badly placed to resist an -attack. The foot-hold was of frozen and slippery snow. Suddenly the -eagles burst up and around them. The guides immediately cut the rope and -each person did what he could to save himself. "Wherever possible," says -Mons. Neyssel, "we simply raced over the frozen snow like maniacs. In -another moment they dashed upon us like an avalanche. I heard a shot--I -suppose Monand fired, but I did not: I do not know why. The attack was -quite too dreadful for words. Speaking for myself, I remember that the -eagles struck me with stunning force with their wings, their hooked -beaks, and strong talons. Every part of my body seemed to be assailed -simultaneously. It was a fierce struggle for life or death. Strangely -enough, I remember nothing of what happened to my companions. I neither -saw nor heard anything of them after the first great rush of the eagles. -It is a miracle I was not hurled to death into the crevasse. - -"Do not ask me how long this weird battle lasted. It may have been five -or six minutes, or a quarter of an hour. I do not know. I grew feebler, -and felt almost inclined to give up the struggle, when the blood began -to trickle down my face and nearly blinded me. I knew that every moment -might be my last, and that I might be hurled into the crevasse. -Strangely enough, the prospect did not appal me. From this time onward I -defended myself almost mechanically, inclined every moment to give up -and lie down. - -"I gave no thought to the guides and my poor friend Monand. If I am -judged harshly for this, I regret it; but I could not help it. All at -once I heard loud, excited voices, but thought that these were merely -fantastic creations of my own brain. In a moment or two, however, I -could distinguish a number of men laying about them fiercely with -sticks, and beating off the eagles." - -The villagers, having watched the ascent through a telescope had come to -the rescue and had saved the lives of the writer and his two guides. His -poor friend, however, was dashed into the crevasse, at the bottom of -which his body was found five days later. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -FALLING STONES AND FALLING BODIES - - -I am indebted to the editor of _The Cornhill_ and the author of an -article entitled "The Cup and the Lip" for permission to reprint -portions of a paper containing much shrewd wisdom, several accounts of -narrow escapes, and withal of a wittiness and freshness that brings to -the reader a keen blast of Alpine air and the memory, if by chance he be -a climber, of his own early days upon the mountains. - -[Illustration: A HOT DAY IN SUMMER ON A MOUNTAIN TOP.] - -[Illustration: A SUMMIT NEAR SAAS.] - -[Illustration: LUNCHEON ON THE WAY TO THE HUT IN WINTER.] - -[Illustration: LUNCHEON IN SUMMER ON THE TOP OF A GLACIER PASS. - -_To face p. 310._] - -The writer, after remarking that even in these days when the traveller, -by the purchase of a few climbing requisites, is inclined to consider -himself a mountaineer before he has ever set foot on a peak, goes on to -say that, in reality, "for the most of us the craft is long to learn, -the conquering hard. And in the experience of many there are two -distinct phases. There is the time when, flushed with youth and victory, -you seem to go on from strength to strength, faster from year to year, -more confident in foot and hand, more scornful of the rope which you -have seen so often used, not as a means of safety, but as an -assistance to the progression of the weaker brethren, until one day your -foot unaccountably finds the step too small, or the bit of rock comes -away in your hand, or the outraged spirit of the mountains smites you -suddenly with a stone, and all is changed. Henceforth every well-worn -and half-despised precaution has a new meaning for you; it becomes a -point of honour to walk circumspectly, to turn the rope round every -helpful projection when the leader moves, and to mark and keep your -distance; and you begin to catch a little of the wisdom of your fathers. -It is not until the slip comes--as it comes to all--that you believe a -slip is possible; and were it not for slips the continual advance of cup -to lip might become in time monotonous and irksome, and mountaineering -nothing but a more laborious and elaborate form of walking up a damp -flight of stairs. But when it has come, and there has passed away the -result of the consequent shock to your self-esteem, and to other even -more sensitive portions of your person, there succeeds a new pride of -achievement, and you will have the advantages of the converted sinner -over the ninety-and-nine just persons whose knickerbockers are still -unriven. Furthermore, you will have commenced the graduate stage of your -mountaineering education. Unlucky, too, will you be if your experience -has not given you something more than a juster estimate of your own -moral and physical excellence; for your misfortune, if you have chosen -your companions aright, will suddenly turn your grumbling hireling into -a friend as gentle and as patient as a nurse, and disclose in those who -were your friends qualities of calm and steadfastness never revealed in -the fret of the valley; while, if you need wine and oil for your wounds, -when you reach home again, you will find in the inn some English doctor, -asking nothing better than to devote the best part of his holiday to the -gratuitous healing of the stranger. - -[Illustration: A TEDIOUS SNOW SLOPE TO ASCEND.] - -[Illustration: A SITTING GLISSADE AND A QUICK DESCENT.] - -[Illustration: A GLACIER-CAPPED SUMMIT.] - -[Illustration: ITALY TO THE LEFT, SWITZERLAND TO THE RIGHT. - -_To face p. 312._] - -"The form of my own awakening was not such as to require wine or oil or -consolation, and indeed, had I spoken of it at the time, would have -scarcely escaped ridicule. We had reached the summit of our pass, and -the guides and myself had decided that the steep wall of snow on the -further side was an admirable place for a glissade. Accordingly, we went -through the inevitable ritual of the summit, consumed as much sour bread -and wine as we could, with unerring inaccuracy applied the wrong names -to all the newly disclosed mountain-tops, adjusted the rope and prepared -for the descent. Unfortunately, we omitted to explain the particular -form of pleasure in which we were about to indulge to my companion, who -was ignorant alike of mountaineering and the German tongue. The result -was simple: the second guide, who was in front, set off with his feet -together and his axe behind him; I followed in as correct an imitation -of his attitude as I could induce my body to assume; but the novice -stood still on the crest of the pass to 'await in fitting silence the -event,' and the rope tightened. The jerk, after nearly cutting me in -two, laid me on my back in the snow, and was then transmitted to the -guide, who was also pulled off his feet and plunged head foremost down. -Our combined weights drew after us both my companion and the chief -guide, who was taken unawares, and both came crushing upon me. We rolled -over and over, mutually pounding one another as we rolled; hats and -spectacles and axes preceded us, and huge snowballs followed in our -wake, until, breathless and humiliated, we had cleared the _schrund_, -and came to an ignominious halt on the flat snow below. - -"This was no very rude introduction to my climbing deficiencies, but -before the end of the season I had felt fear at the pit of my stomach. -We (that is A. T. and myself) had scrambled up an Austrian mountain, -and, on our way down, had come to where the little glacier intervenes -between the precipice and the little moraine heaps above the forest. The -glacier would hardly deserve the name in any other part of the Alps, so -small is it; but it makes up for what it lacks in size by its exceeding -steepness; the hardness of its ice, and the ferocity (if one may -attribute personal characteristics to Nature) of the rock walls which -keep in its stream on either hand, hem it in so closely that I think it -must be always in deep shadow, even in the middle of a June day. - -"Here you must cross it very nearly on a level, and then skirt down its -further side between ice and rock for a few feet before you come to a -suitable place for the crossing of the big crevasse below you; and then -a short slide down old avalanche _dbris_ shoots you deliciously into -the sun again. The crossing of the glacier in the steps cut by the -numerous parties who have passed on previous days is an extremely simple -affair. But you must not hurry, for a slip could not be checked, and -would probably finish in the before-mentioned crevasse. We started, -however, in some fear; for a party ascending the mountains favoured us -with continual showers of stones of all sizes, and the higher they -climbed the more viciously came their artillery. Hence I was nervous and -apt to go carelessly when we reached the middle of the ice, and here the -noise began. I heard a strange, whizzing, whirring noise which sounded -strangely familiar, accompanied by a physical shiver on my part and a -curious knocking together of the knees; again and again it came, -followed each time by a slight dull thud; and, looking at the rocks -below us on each side, I saw a little white puff of dust rising at -every concussion. Then I knew why the sound seemed familiar. I was -reminded how, as a panting schoolboy, I had toiled up a long dusty road -to a certain down with a rifle much too large for me, in the vain hope -of shooting my third-class, and how, as we bruised our shoulders at the -200 yards' range, another young gentleman firing at the 400 yards at the -parallel range on the left, had mistaken his mark and fired across our -heads at the target beyond us on the right. Everything was present: the -indescribable whirring of the bullet, its horrible invisibility while it -flew, and the grey little cloud as it flattened itself on the white -paint of the target. The sensation was horrible, the tendency to hurry -irresistible, and but for my companion I should have risked slip and -crevasse and everything to get out of the line of fire. But my companion -remained absolutely steady; while he poured forth curses in every -language and every _patois_ ever spoken in the Italian Tyrol, he still -moved his feet as deliberately, improved the steps with as much care and -minuteness as if he were a Chamonix guide conducting a Frenchman on the -Mer de Glace. I know he felt the position as acutely as I did, for when, -a week later, we had to cross the same place under a similar fire, and -the third member of the party was sent on in front with a large rope to -recut the steps, he turned to me with impressive simplicity, and said, -'_Adesso quello in grande pericolo_. If he is hit, we cannot save -him.' How long we took to cross I do not know. But when at last we -reached the other bank we cast the rope off with one impulse, and, -bending under the shelter of the rocks, ran where I had found climbing -hard in the morning, jumped the _bergschrund_, fell and rolled down the -snow under a final volley from the mountain, and lay long by the stream -panting and safe. - -"I suspect the danger here was far more apparent than real. My next -adventure with a falling stone was more real than I like to think of. -Four of us had been scrambling round the rocks beside the Ventina -Glacier, and were returning to our camp to lunch. By bad luck, as it -turned out, I reached level ground first, and, lying on my back amongst -great boulders, watched with amusement the struggles of my companions -who were about a hundred feet above me, apparently unable to get up or -down. They were screaming to me, but the torrent drowned their voices, -and I smoked my pipe in contentment. _Suave mari magno._ At last they -moved, and with them the huge rock which they had been endeavouring to -uphold and shouting to me to beware of. It crashed down towards me, but -I determined to stop where I was. The roughness of the ground would have -hindered my escape to any distance, and I calculated on stepping quickly -aside when my enemy had declared himself for any particular path of -attack. So I did, but the stone at that moment broke in pieces, and, -quick as I was with desperation, one fragment was quicker still. It -caught me, glancing as I turned between the shoulder and the elbow, only -just touching me, as I suppose, for the bone was quite unhurt. Up I went -into the air and down I came among the stones, with all the wind knocked -out of me, large bruises all over me, not hurt, but very much -frightened. - -[Illustration: UNPLEASANT GOING OVER LOOSE STONES.] - -[Illustration: ON THE CREST OF AN OLD MORAINE. - -_To face p. 317._] - -"Such experiences as this leave no very lasting impression, and might -just as easily happen were the party accompanied by the best of guides. -But I hardly think that any guide would have been crack-brained enough -to take part in two expeditions which taught me what it feels like to -slip on rock and ice respectively. The first slip took place during the -winter. With one companion I was climbing in a long and not very -difficult gully on a Welsh mountain. The frost had just broken, and -there was more water in the pitches than was quite pleasant. It was very -cold water, and my hands, which had been frost-bitten the week before, -were still swathed in bandages. Hence progress was very slow, and at -last my friend took the lead to spare me. He was climbing over a big -overhanging stone jammed between the walls of the gully and forming an -excellent spout for the water, which was thus poured conveniently down -his neck. I stood on the shelving floor of the gully in perfect safety, -and watched the shower-bath, which was gradually exhausting him. He -asked for his axe, and I, in a moment of madness, came near and handed -it up; his legs, which were all I could then see of him, were kicking in -the water about 5 feet above my head. What happened next I do not know, -but I shall always maintain that, seeing an eligible blade of grass -above him, he plunged the adze in and hauled with both hands. The blade -resented such treatment, and came out. Anyhow he fell on my head, and we -commenced a mad career down the way we had ascended, rather rolling than -falling, striking our heads and backs against the rocks, and apparently -destined for the stony valley upon which we had looked down between our -legs for hours. People who have escaped drowning say that, in what was -their struggle for life, their minds travelled back over their whole -history. I know that my brain at this moment suddenly acquired an -unusual strength. In a few seconds we were safe, but in those seconds -there was time for centuries of regret. There was no fear; that was to -come later. But I felt vividly that I was present as a spectator of my -own suicide, and thought myself a feeble kind of fool. Had it been on -the Dru or the Meije, I thought, it might have been worth it, but, -half-drowned, to plunge a poor 40 feet over the next pitch on a hill -not 3000 feet high, with a carriage road in sight, and a girl driving in -the cows for milking in Nant Francon! We did not roll far, and stuck -between the walls of the gully, where they narrowed. Then I arose and -shook myself, unhurt. My companion made me light his pipe, which cheered -me very much, and we each partook of an enormous mutton sandwich. Help -was near, for another party of three was climbing in the next gully, and -came to our shouts; one ran down to the farm for a hurdle, the rest -began the descent. For hours we seemed to toil, for my companion, though -with admirable fortitude he supported the pain of movement, had -temporarily no power over his legs and the lower part of his body. I -could do little, but the others worked like blacks, and just at dark we -reached the farm and the ministrations of a Welsh doctor, who told my -friend, quite erroneously, that there was nothing the matter with him, -pointed out a swelling on my face as big as a pigeon's egg, which, he -said, would probably lead to erysipelas, and then departed into the -darkness. - -"A fall on ice has something in it more relentless, though, until the -last catastrophe, less violent. We had all been victims to the -flesh-pots of the valley, and were, perhaps, hardly fit for a long -ice-slope, when we began to cut up the last few feet to gain the _arte_ -of our mountain. The incline seemed to me very steep, and, third on the -rope, I was watching the leader at his labours, half pitying him for his -exertions, half envying him his immunity from the ice fragments which he -was sending down to me. Below me the fourth man had barely left the -great flat rock on which we had breakfasted; there was no reason to -think of danger; when to my horror I saw the leader cut a step, put out -his foot slowly, and then very slowly and deliberately sway over and -fall forwards and downwards against the ice. We were in a diagonal line, -but almost immediately beneath one another, and he swung quietly round -like a pendulum, his axe holding him to the slope, until he was -immediately beneath the second man. Very slowly, as it seemed, the rope -grew taut; the weight began to tug at his waist; and then he, too, -slowly and reflectively in the most correct mountaineering attitude, as -though he were embarking upon a well-considered journey, began to slide. -Now was the time for me to put into practice years of patient training. -I dug my toes in and stiffened my back, anchored myself to the ice, and -waited for the strain. It was an unconscionable time coming, and, when -it came, I still had time to think that I could bear it. Then the weight -of 27 stone in a remorseless way quietly pulled me from my standpoint, -as though my resistance were an impudence. Still, like the others, I -held my axe against the ice and struggled like a cat on a polished -floor, always seeing the big flat rock, and thinking of the bump with -which we should bound from it, and begin our real career through the -air; when suddenly the bump came and we all fell together in a heap on -to the rock and the fourth man, who had stepped back upon it, my -crampons running into his leg, and my axe, released from the pressure, -going off through the air on the very journey which I had anticipated -for us all. The others were for a fresh attack on the malicious -mountain; but I was of milder mood, and very soon, torn and wiser, we -were off on a slower but more convenient path to the valley than had -seemed destined for us a few minutes before. But our cup was not yet -full. Having no axe with which to check a slip, I was placed at the head -of the line, and led slowly down, floundering a good deal for want of my -usual support. The great couloir was seamed across with a gigantic -crevasse, the angle of the slope being so sharp that the upper half -overhung, and we had only crossed in the morning by standing on the -lower lip, cutting hand-holes in the upper, and shoving up the leader -from the shoulder of the second man: hence, in descending, our position -was similar to that of a man on the mantel-shelf who should wish to -climb down into the fire itself. We chose the obvious alternative of a -jump to the curb, which was, I suppose, about 15 feet below us and made -of steep ice with a deep and deceptive covering of snow. I jumped and -slid away with this covering, to be arrested in my course by a rude -jerk. I turned round indignant; but my companions were beyond my -reproaches. One by one, full of snow, eloquent, and bruised, they issued -slowly from the crevasse into which I had hurled them, and, heedless of -the humour of the situation, gloomily urged me downwards. - -"Some hours still passed before we reached our friendly Italian hut, -left some days before for a raid into Swiss territory; there on the -table were our provisions and shirts as we had left them, and a solemn -array of bottles full of milk carried up during our absence by our -shepherd friends; and there, on the pile, in stinging comment on our -late proceedings, lay a slip of paper, the tribute of some Italian -tourist, bearing the inscription 'Omaggio ai bravi Inglesi ignoti.' We -felt very much ashamed. - -"When the soup has been eaten and the pipes are lighted, and you sit -down outside your hut for the last talk before bed, you will find your -guides' tongues suddenly acquire a new eloquence, and, if you are a -novice at the craft, will be almost overwhelmed by the catalogue of -misfortune which they will repeat to you. And so, too, upon us in the -winter months comes the temptation to dwell on things done long ago and -ill done, and, as we write of the sport for others, we give a false -impression of peril and hardihood in things that were little more than -matter for a moment's laughter. I too must plead guilty to a well-meant -desire to make your flesh creep. - -[Illustration: AN AWKWARD BIT OF CLIMBING.] - -[Illustration: GUIDES AT ZERMATT.] - -[Illustration: A LARGE PARTY FOR A SMALL HUT.] - -[Illustration: AU REVOIR. - -_To face p. 322._] - -"Mountaineering by skilled mountaineers is about as dangerous as hunting -in a fair country, and requires about as much pluck as to cross from the -Temple to the Law Courts at midday. Difficult mountaineering is for the -unskilled about as dangerous as riding a vicious horse in a steeplechase -for a man who has never learnt to ride. But the tendency in those who -speak or write of it for the outer world who are not mountaineers is to -conceal a deficiency of charm of style by an attempt to slog in the -melodramatic, and I plead guilty at once. - -"So we think and write as though to us our passion for the hills were a -fancy of the summer, a mere flirtation. Yet no one has lost the first -bloom of his delight in Alpine adventure before the element of sternness -has come to mar his memory and bind more closely his affections. You -find the mildly Horatian presence of death somewhere near you, and that -at a moment when, whatever your age and strength, and whatever your -infirmities, you are at the full burst of youth; when Nature has been -kindest she has been most capricious, and has flaunted her relentless -savagery just when she has bent to kiss you. The weirdest rocks rise -from Italian gardens, and the forms of hill seem oldest when you are -most exultant--immortal age beside immortal youth. Yet is it not this, -'the sense of tears,' in things which are not mortal which must mark -your Alpine paths with memories as heavy and as definite as those -inscriptions which tell of obscure and sudden death on every hillside, -and invite your prayers for the woodcutter and the shepherd? You too -will have seen friends go out into the morning whom you have never -welcomed home. There is a danger, sometimes encountered recklessly, -sometimes ignorantly, but sometimes--hard as it may be to understand the -mood--not in the mere spirit of the idle youth, but met with and -overcome, or overcoming, in a resolution which knows no pleasure in -conquest save when the essay is fierce, and is calmly willing to pay the -penalty of failure. While for ourselves we enjoy the struggle none the -less because we have taken every care that we shall win, they freely -give all; and for such there is surely no law. While by every precept -and example we impress the old rules of the craft on our companions and -our successors, how can we find words of blame for those who have at -least paid the extreme forfeit, and found 'the sleep that is among the -lonely hills'? - -"The penalty for failure is death; not always exacted at the first -slip, for Nature is merciful and ofttimes doth relent; but surely -waiting for those who scorn the experience of others and slight her -majesty in wilfulness, in ignorance, in the obstinate following of a -fancy, in the vain pursuit of notoriety. The rules are known, and those -who break them, and by precept and example tempt to break them those -whom they should teach, wrong the sport which they profess to love. - -"In this game as in any other, it should be a point of honour for us not -to make the sport more difficult for others, and not to bring -unnecessary sorrow upon the peasants, who help us to play it, and upon -their families. It should be a point of honour to play the game, and, if -disaster comes in playing it, we have at least, done our best." - - - - -GLOSSARY - - -ALP A mountain pasture, usually with chalets - tenanted only in summer. - -ARTE A ridge. - -BERGSCHRUND A crevasse between the snow adhering to - the rocks and the lower portion of the - glacier. - -COL A pass between two peaks. - - -COULOIR A gully, usually filled with snow or stones. - -CREVASSE A crack in a glacier, caused by the movement - of the ice over an uneven bed or - round a corner. - - -FIRN The snow of the upper regions, which is - slowly changing into glacier ice. - -GRAT A ridge. - -JOCH A pass between two peaks. - -KAMM A summit ridge. - -MORAINE An accumulation of stones and sand which - has fallen from bordering slopes on to - a glacier. Medial moraines are formed - by the junction of glaciers, their lateral - moraines joining. - -MOULIN A glacier mill, or shaft through the ice, - formed by a stream which has met a - crevasse in its course, and plunging - into its depths has bored a hole right - through the glacier and often into the - rock beneath. - -NV The French of _Firn_. (See Firn.) - -RCKSACK The bag type of canvas knapsack now invariably - used by guides and climbers. - -SCHRUND A crevasse. (See Crevasse.) - -SRAC A cube of ice, formed by transverse crevasses, - and found where a glacier passes over - steep rocks. This part of a glacier is - called an ice-fall. - - - - -INDEX - - -A - -Abruzzi, Duke of, 8 - -Adine Col, 108 - -ggischhorn, 257 - -Ailefroide, 228, 245 - -Aitkins, Mr, 162 - -Aletsch Glacier, 125 - -Aletschhorn, avalanche on, 55 - -Almer, Christian, 223, 237 - -Almer, Ulrich, 55 - -Andenmatten, 108 - -Anderegg, Jacob, 126, 127 - -Anderegg, Melchior, 125, 212 - -Andermatten, Franz, 202 - -Arbuthnot, Mrs, 257 - -Arc, Valley of, 266 - -Aren Glacier, 57, 61 - -Arlberg Pass, 61 - -Arolla, 168 - -Arves, Aiguilles d', 248 - -Asti, 265 - - -B - -Baker, Mr, 134 - -Balloon (crossing Alps), 298 - -Balme, 300 - -Bans, Les, 228 - -Baumann, Hans, 127 - -Bean, Mr, 136 - -Bennen, 57 - -Bergemoletto, 65 - -Bergli Hut, 210 - -Bessanese, 299 - -Bettega, 183 - -Biner, Alois and P., 302 - -Biner, Joseph, 204, 302 - -Blaitire, Aiguille de, 26, 37 - -Blanc, Mont, 136, 153 - -Blanche, Dent, 51, 152, 167 - -Boeufs Rouges, 228 - -Bohren, 58 - -Boniface, 265 - -Bonvoison, Pic de, 226 - -Botto, 298 - -Bregaglia group, 296 - -Brenner, 136 - -Brewer, Mrs, 61 - -Bricolla chlets, 168 - -Bristenstock, 164 - -Broadbent, Mr, 302 - -Bruce, Major, 59 - -Brulle, Mons. H., 260 - -Burckhardt, Mr, 208 - -Burchi peak, 59 - -Burgener, Alexander, 104, 202 - - -C - -C d'Asti, 265 - -Carr, Mr Ellis, 23 - -Carrel, J. A., 21 - -Caucasus, 58, 99, 116 - -Cenis, Mont, 264 - -Cerbillonas, the, 260 - -Chamonix, 8, 23, 126, 153 - -Charbonnet, Captain, 298 - -Charmoz ridge, 50 - -Claret, 258 - -Clayton, Captain, 261 - -Collie, Dr Norman, 134 - -Constance, 60 - -Conway, Sir W. M., 155, 275 - -Copland Valley, 4 - -Croz, Michel, 222, 238 - - -D - -Dauphin, 11 - -Dent, Mr C. T., 99, 116, 142, 202 - -Devas, Mr J. F. C., 144 - -Dixon, Mr H. B., 133 - -Dolomites, 182 - -Dom, 52 - -Donkin, Mr W. F., 58, 99, 116 - -Dora Riparia, Valley of, 266 - -Dniberg, 282 - -Durand Glacier, 204 - -Durando, 298 - -Dych Tau, 105 - - -E - -Ecrins, 228, 235 - -Ecrins, Col des, 225 - -Eiger, 264 - -Elbruz, 115 - -Elm, landslip of, 275 - -Elmer, Huntsman, 280 - -Encula, Glacier de l', 246 - -tanons, Val des, 11 - - -F - -Fellenberg, E. Von, 212 - -Ferard, Mr A. G., 144 - -Fitzgerald, Mr E., 3 - -Flender, Herr, 138 - -Foster, Mr G. E., 126 - -Fox, Mr, 116 - -Freshfield, Mr Douglas, 116 - -Frrer, Alphons, 8 - -Furrer, Elias, 167 - - -G - -Gabelhorn, Ober, 55 - -Gastaldi, Rifugio, 299 - -Gavarnie, 261 - -Gant, Dent du, 257 - -Geneva, Lake of, 37 - -Gentinetta, A., 8 - -Gentinetta, E., 206 - -Gestola, 99 - -Glace, Mer de, 8 - -Glarus, Canton, 277 - -Gohna Lake, 277 - -Grass, Hans, 55 - -Greenwood, Mr Eric, 154 - -Grogan, Mr, 302 - -Grove, F. Craufurd, 2 - -Gurkhas, 59 - - -H - -Habl, Herr Emil, 292 - -Hardy, Mr, 164 - -Hartley, Mr E. T., 166 - -Hill, Mr, 167 - -Himalayas, 58, 275 - -Hochjoch Haus, 261 - -Hohberghorn, 52 - -Hrnli, 9 - -Horrocks, D. P., 204 - - -I - -Imboden, Joseph, 52, 165, 195 - -Imboden, Roman, 195 - -Imseng, Ferdinand, 202, 267 - -Innsbruck, 60 - -Interlaken, 221 - - -J - -Jones, Mr Glynne, 167 - -Julen, Edouard, 206 - -Julen, Felix, 302 - -Jungfrau, 55, 210 - -Jungfrau Hut, 209 - - -K - -Kaiserbrunn, 292 - -Kennedy, Dr, 164, 222 - -King, Sir H. S., 208 - -Koenig, Herr, 138 - -Kubli, Herr Oswald, 281 - -Kurzras, 261 - - -L - -La Brarde, 11, 245 - -La Grave, 11 - -Langtauferer Glacier, 262 - -Lapland, 306 - -Lausanne, 37 - -Lucerne, 301 - -Lyons, 298 - - -M - -Maggiore, Lago, 301 - -Maithana Hill, fall of, 275 - -Maquignaz, 21 - -Maritime Alps, 305 - -Martino, St, 182 - -Matthews, Mr E. C., 211 - -Matterhorn, 8, 21, 248, 302 - -Maund, Mr, 11 - -Maund, Mrs, 11 - -Maurer, 11, 116 - -Meije, 12, 248 - -Meije, Brche de la, 12, 228 - -Middlemore, Mr, 11 - -Midi, Aiguille du, 126 - -Mischabel group, 301 - -Monand, Mons. J., 306 - -Mnch, 124 - -Montanvert, 8 - -Moore, Mr A. W., 124, 222, 235 - -"Moseley's Platte," 302 - -Mouvoison, 142 - -Mueller Valley, 4 - -Mummery, Mr, 23, 58 - -Mrren, 208 - -Msli, 280 - -Mussa, Cantina della, 300 - - -N - -Nant Francon, 319 - -Nantillons Glacier, 24 - -Neyssel, Mons. Antoine, 306 - -Noir, Glacier, 245 - - -O - -Oetzthal, 261 - -Offerer, J., 136 - -Ossoue, Valley of, 261 - - -P - -Pal, Piz, 55 - -Passingham, Mr, 202 - -Packe, Mr C., 259 - -Pelvoux, 245 - -Pelvoux, Crte du, 245 - -Perren, H., 138 - -Perren, P., 204 - -Pilatte, Col de la, 222 - -Plan, Aiguille du, 23 - -Plattenbergkopf, 277 - -Pourri, Mont, 267 - -Powell, Captain, 116, 123 - -Pyrenees, 259 - - -R - -Rax, the, 291 - -Renaud, Mons., 223 - -Rey, Emil, 8 - -Rhyner, Fridolin, 287 - -Rhyner, Meinrad, 280 - -Richardson, Miss, 165 - -Rocca Venoni, 300 - -Roccia, Family of, 68 - -Roche Melon, 264 - -Rocky Mountains, 133 - -Rodier, 11 - -Rosetta, 182 - -Rothhorn, Zinal, 195 - - -S - -Saas, Valley of, 301 - -Sahrbach, 134 - -Schffer, Dr, 136 - -Schildthorn, 257 - -Schuster, Mr, 162 - -Schwarzsee Hotel, 10 - -Sefton, Mount, 4 - -Seiler, Herr, 145, 162 - -Seiler, D. H., 301 - -Sernf Valley, 277 - -Silberhorn, 208 - -Skagastldstind, 140 - -Ski accident, 137 - -Slingsby, Mr Cecil, 23, 140, 152 - -Sloggett, Mr, 8 - -Smith, Mr Haskett-, 158 - -Solly, Mr, 156 - -Somis, Ignazio, 65 - -Sospello, 306 - -Spechtenhauser, 261 - -Spelterini, Captain, 301 - -Spender, Mr H., 167 - -Strahlplatten, 209 - -Stock, Mr E. E., 302 - -Stockje, 156 - -Supersax, Ambrose, 209 - -Susa, 265 - - -T - -Tavernaro, 183 - -Tetnuld Tau, 99 - -Tnsberg, 141 - -Trift Valley, 195 - -Tuckett, Mr F., 55, 264 - -Tuckett Glacier, 5 - -Turin, 298 - - -U - -Uschba, 115 - - -V - -Vallon, Glacier du, 245 - -Vallot Hut, 153 - -Valtournanche, 21 - -Ventina Glacier, 316 - -Vignemale, 260 - -Viso, Monte, 269 - -Vuignier, Jean, 168 - - -W - -Walker, Mr, 223, 235 - -Walker, Mr Horace, 126 - -Wandfluh, 166, 179 - -Watson, Mr and Mrs, 257 - -Weisshorn, 248 - -Weisskugel, 261 - -Weissmies, 301 - -Wengern Alp, 124, 210 - -Willink, Mr, 123 - -Wildlahner Glacier, 136 - -Wolfsthal, 292 - -Woolley, Mr H., 116 - -Whymper, Mr E., 222, 235 - -Wyss, Schoolmaster, 280 - - -Z - -Zentner, Kaspar, 287 - -Zermatt, 10, 51, 139, 181, 301 - -Zmutt Glacier, 166, 179 - -Zurbriggen, 3, 59 - -Zurbriggen, Clemens, 168 - -Zurbrcken, Louis, 209 - -Zurmatter, 302 - - PRINTED AT THE EDINBURGH PRESS, - - 9 AND 11 YOUNG STREET - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] These are now known as Mummery nails, and are often used by climbers. - -[2] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, pp. 42 and 43. - -[3] Or, in modern phraseology, "avalanches." - -[4] Mountain aneroids generally overstate the heights. The height of -Gestola is now computed at 15,932 feet, and that of Tetnuld at 15,918 -feet. - -[5] "Good God! The Sleeping-place!" - -[6] "I am still living." - -[7] _Above the Snow Line_, by Clinton Dent. - -[8] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, p. 269. - -[9] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, p. 134. - -[10] At the moment of going to press, I must note a fatal accident on -the mountains due to lightning, namely, the death of the guide, Joseph -Simond, on the Dent du Gant. This I had overlooked. - -[11] See _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_. - -[12] "Ah! That is really wonderfully beautiful!" - -[13] All details connected with this avalanche were collected on the -spot, and shortly afterwards published in a volume, _Der Bergsturz von -Elm_, by E. Buss and A. Heim. Zrich, 1881. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -The baloon "Stella"=> The balloon "Stella" {pg xiv} - -sufficient to carry of the=> sufficient to carry off the {pg 82} - -Kaisserbrunn, 292=> Kaiserbrunn, 292 {index} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Adventures on the Roof of the World, by -Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - -***** This file should be named 43314-8.txt or 43314-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/3/1/43314/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Donations are accepted in a number of other -ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations. -To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate - - -Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic -works. - -Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm -concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared -with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project -Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. - - -Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed -editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. -unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily -keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. - - -Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: - - http://www.gutenberg.org - -This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, -including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary -Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to -subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/43314-8.zip b/43314-8.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index 37e5244..0000000 --- a/43314-8.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/43314-h.zip b/43314-h.zip Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index b618c50..0000000 --- a/43314-h.zip +++ /dev/null diff --git a/43314.txt b/43314.txt deleted file mode 100644 index 2dc72f5..0000000 --- a/43314.txt +++ /dev/null @@ -1,8538 +0,0 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Adventures on the Roof of the World, by -Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Adventures on the Roof of the World - -Author: Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -Release Date: July 26, 2013 [EBook #43314] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF OF - THE WORLD - - - - - SOME - BOOKS ON MOUNTAINEERING - - - =The Annals of Mont Blanc=: A Monograph. By C. E. MATHEWS, sometime - President of the Alpine Club. With Map, 6 Swan-types and other - Illustrations, and Facsimiles. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s. net. - - =The Life of Man on the High Alps=: Studies made on Monte Rosa. By - ANGELO MOSSO. Translated from the Second Edition of the Italian by - E. LOUGH KIESOW, in collaboration with F. KIESOW. With numerous - Illustrations and Diagrams. Royal 8vo, cloth, 21s. - - =The Early Mountaineers=: The Stories of their Lives. By FRANCIS - GRIBBLE. Fully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s. - - =The Climbs of Norman-Neruda.= Edited, with an Account of his last - Climb, by MAY NORMAN-NERUDA. Demy 8vo, cloth, 21s. - - =In the Ice World of Himalaya.= By FANNY BULLOCK WORKMAN and WILLIAM - HUNTER WORKMAN. With four large Maps and nearly 100 Illustrations. - Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 16s. Also a 6s. Edition. - - =From the Alps to the Andes.= By MATHIAS ZURBRIGGEN. Demy 8vo, cloth, - 10s. 6d. net. - - =Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada.= By CLARENCE KING. Crown 8vo, - cloth, 6s. net. - - =True Tales of Mountain Adventure= (for Non-Climbers, Young and Old). - By Mrs AUBREY LE BLOND (Mrs Main). Demy 8vo, cloth, 10s. 6d. net. - -LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN. - -[Illustration: THE FINDING OF THE LAST BIVOUAC OF MESSRS. DONKIN AND FOX -IN THE CAUCASUS. (P. 116.) - -From a drawing by Mr. Willink after a sketch by Captain Powell. Taken, -by kind permission of Mr. Douglas Freshfield, from "The Exploration of -the Caucasus." - -_Frontispiece._] - - - - - ADVENTURES ON THE - ROOF OF THE WORLD - - BY - MRS AUBREY LE BLOND - (MRS MAIN) - - AUTHOR OF - "MY HOME IN THE ALPS," "TRUE TALES OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE," ETC. - - _ILLUSTRATED_ - - [Illustration: colophon] - - LONDON - T. FISHER UNWIN - PATERNOSTER SQUARE - 1904 - - (_All rights reserved._) - - - - - TO - - JOSEPH IMBODEN - - MY GUIDE AND FRIEND FOR TWENTY YEARS, - - I dedicate - - THESE RECORDS OF A PASTIME IN WHICH I OWE - - MY SHARE TO HIS SKILL, COURAGE, AND - - HELPFUL COMPANIONSHIP. - - - - -PREFACE - - -"Dear heart," said Tommy, when Mr Barlow had finished his narrative, -"what a number of accidents people are subject to in this world!" - -"It is very true," answered Mr Barlow, "but as that is the case, it is -necessary to improve ourselves in every possible manner, so that we may -be able to struggle against them." - -Thus quoted, from _Sandford and Merton_, a president of the Alpine Club. -The following True Tales from the Hills, if they serve to emphasise not -only the perils of mountaineering but the means by which they can be -lessened, will have accomplished the aim of their editor. - -This book is not intended for the climber. To him most of the tales will -be familiar in the volumes on the shelves of his library or on the lips -of his companions during restful hours in the Alps. But the non-climber -rarely sees _The Alpine Journal_ and the less popular books on -mountaineering, nor would he probably care to search in their pages for -narratives likely to interest him. - -To seek out tales of adventure easily intelligible to the non-climber, -to edit them in popular form, to point out the lessons which most -adventures can teach to those who may climb themselves one day, has -occupied many pleasant hours, rendered doubly so by the feeling that I -shall again come into touch with the readers who gave so kindly a -greeting to my _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_. In that work I tried -to explain the principles of mountaineering and something of the nature -of glaciers and avalanches. Those chapters will, I think, be found -helpful by non-climbers who read the present volume. - -For much kindly advice and help in compiling this work I am indebted to -Mr Henry Mayhew, of the British Museum, and to Mr Clinton Dent. Mrs -Maund has enabled me to quote from a striking article by her late -husband. Sir W. Martin Conway, Sir H. Seymour King, Messrs Tuckett, G. -E. Foster, Cecil Slingsby, Harold Spender, and Edward Fitzgerald have -been good enough to allow me to make long extracts from their writings. -Messrs Newnes have generously permitted me to quote from articles which -appeared in their publications, and the editor of _The Cornhill_ has -sanctioned my reprinting portions of a paper from his magazine. I am -also indebted to the editor of _M'Clure's Magazine_ for a similar -courtesy. - -Mons. A. Campagne, Inspector of Water and Forests (France), allows me to -make use of two very interesting photographs from his work on the Valley -of Barege. Several friends have lent me photographs for reproduction in -this work, and their names appear under each of the illustrations I owe -to them. Messrs Spooner have kindly allowed me to use several by the -late Mr W. F. Donkin. When not otherwise stated, the photographs are -from my own negatives. - -I take this opportunity of heartily thanking those climbers, some of -them personally unknown to me, whose assistance has rendered this work -possible. - -E. LE BLOND. - -67 THE DRIVE, -BRIGHTON, _December 1903_. - - - - -CONTENTS - - -CHAP. PAGE - - PREFACE ix - - I. SOME TALES OF ALPINE GUIDES 1 - - II. TWO DAYS ON AN ICE-SLOPE 23 - - III. SOME AVALANCHE ADVENTURES 51 - - IV. A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE 65 - - V. A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE (_continued_) 81 - - VI. AN EXCITING CAUCASIAN ASCENT 99 - - VII. A MELANCHOLY QUEST 116 - -VIII. SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND FATAL ACCIDENTS 124 - - IX. A NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE DENT BLANCHE 152 - - X. ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE 167 - - XI. A STIRRING DAY ON THE ROSETTA 182 - - XII. THE ZINAL ROTHHORN TWICE IN ONE DAY 195 - -XIII. BENIGHTED ON A SNOW PEAK 208 - - XIV. THE STORY OF A BIG JUMP 222 - - XV. A PERILOUS FIRST ASCENT 235 - -XVI. THUNDERSTORMS IN THE ALPS 257 - -XVII. LANDSLIPS IN THE MOUNTAINS 275 - -XVIII. SOME TERRIBLE EXPERIENCES 291 - -XIX. FALLING STONES AND FALLING BODIES 310 - -GLOSSARY 327 - -INDEX 329 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - -The last bivouac of Messrs Donkin and Fox -in the Caucasus _Frontispiece_ - -Christian Almer, Joseph Imboden, Jean -Antoine Carrel, Alexander Burgener _To face page_ 3 - -The last steep bit near the top--At the end -of a hot day--An instant's halt to choose -the best way up a steep wall of rock--The -ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, -to be brought up by the last man " " 6 - -Auguste Gentinetta--Auguste Gentinetta -on the way to the Matterhorn--The -beginning of the climb up the Matterhorn--The -spot where was the _bergschrund_ -into which Mr Sloggett's party -fell " " 8 - -Auguste Gentinetta on a mountain-top--The -ice-cliffs over which Mr Sloggett's party -would have fallen had they not been -dashed into the _bergschrund_--The -ruined chapel by the Schwarzsee--The -last resting-place at Zermatt of some -English climbers " " 11 - -On a snow ridge--A halt for lunch above -the snow-line--Mrs Aubrey Le Blond " " 51 - -A cutting through an avalanche--The -remains of an avalanche--An avalanche -of stones--A mountain chapel " " 59 - -A mountain path--Peasants of the -mountains--A village buried beneath an -avalanche--Terraces planted to -prevent avalanches " " 65 - -A typical Caucasian landscape " " 105 - -Melchior Anderegg, his son and grandchild " " 124 - -Crevasses and seracs--On the border of a -crevasse--A snow bridge--Soft snow in -the afternoon " " 133 - -The Betemps Hut--Ski-ing--A fall on Skis--A -great crevasse " " 137 - -The balloon "Stella" getting ready to start -(p. 301)--A bivouac in the olden days--Boulder -practice--The last rocks -descending " " 148 - -Provisions for a mountain hotel--An outlook -over rock and snow--Dent Blanche -from Schwarzsee (winter)--Dent Blanche -from Theodule Glacier (summer) " " 152 - -Hut on Col de Bertol--Ascending the -Aiguilles Rouges--Summit of the Dent -Blanche--Cornice on the Dent Blanche " " 156 - -Ambrose Supersax (p. 209)--View from the -Rosetta " " 182 - -Climbing party leaving Zermatt--The -Gandegg Hut--The Trift Hotel--Zinal -Rothhorn from Trift Valley " " 195 - -Zinal Rothhorn--Top of a Chamonix Aiguille--A -steep face of rock--"Leading -strings" " " 202 - -A _bergschrund_--Homewards over the snow-slopes " " 230 - -The Ecrins--Clouds breaking over a ridge--Summit -of the Jungfrau--Wind-blown -snow " " 235 - -The Ecrins from the Glacier Blanc " " 247 - -Slab climbing--A rock ridge--On the Dent -du Geant--The top at last " " 252 - -The second largest glacier in the Alps--On -a ridge in the Oberland " " 259 - -Thirteen thousand feet above the sea--On -the Furggen Grat--A "personally -conducted" party on the Breithorn--Packing -the knapsack " " 269 - -Monte Rosa from the Furggen Grat--The -Matterhorn from the Wellenkuppe " " 272 - -A glacier lake--Amongst the seracs--Taking -off the rope--Water at last! " " 297 - -The balloon "Stella" starting from Zermatt--A -moment after " " 298 - -The Matterhorn from the Hoernli Ridge--The -Matterhorn from the Furgg Glacier--Joseph -Biner--The Matterhorn Hut " " 302 - -A hot day on a mountain-top--A summit -near Saas--Luncheon _en route_ (winter)--Luncheon -on a glacier pass (summer) " " 310 - -A tedious snow-slope--A sitting glissade--A -glacier-capped summit--On the -frontier " " 312 - -Unpleasant going--On the crest of an old -moraine " " 317 - -An awkward bit of climbing--Guides at -Zermatt--The Boval Hut--_Au revoir!_ " " 322 - - - - -ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF OF THE WORLD - - - - -CHAPTER I - -SOME TALES OF ALPINE GUIDES - - -In a former work, I have given some details of the training of an Alpine -guide, so I will not repeat them here. - -The mountain guides of Switzerland form a class unlike any other, yet in -the high standard of honour and devotion they display towards those in -their charge, one is reminded of two bodies of men especially deserving -of respect and confidence, namely, the Civil Guards of Spain and the -Royal Irish Constabulary. Like these, the Alpine guide oftentimes risks -his health, strength--even his life--for persons who are sometimes in -themselves the cause of the peril encountered. Like these, mere bodily -strength and the best will in the world need to be associated with -intelligence and foresight. Like these, also, keen, fully-developed -powers of observation are essential. A certain climber of early days has -wittily related in _The Alpine Journal_ a little anecdote which bears on -this point. "Some years ago," writes the late Mr F. Craufurd Grove, "a -member of this Club was ascending a small and easy peak in company with -a famous Oberland guide. Part of their course lay over a snow-field -sinking gradually on one side, sharply ended by a precipice on the -other. The two were walking along, not far from the edge of this -precipice, when the Englishman, thinking that an easier path might be -made by going still nearer the edge, diverged a little from his -companion's track. To his considerable surprise, the guide immediately -caught hold of him, and pulled him back with a great deal more vigour -than ceremony, well-nigh throwing him down in the operation. Wrathful, -and not disinclined to return the compliment, the Englishman -remonstrated. The guide's only answer was to point to a small crack, -apparently like scores of other cracks in the _neve_, which ran for some -distance parallel to the edge of the precipice, and about 15 feet from -it. - -[Illustration: JEAN ANTOINE CARREL OF VALOURNANCHE. - -By Signor Vittorio Sella.] - -[Illustration: CHRISTIAN ALMER OF GRINDELWALD.] - -[Illustration: ALEXANDER BURGENER OF EISTEN (SAASTHAL).] - -[Illustration: JOSEPH IMBODEN OF ST. NICHOLAS. - -_To face p. 3._] - -"The traveller was not satisfied, but he was too wise a man to spend -time in arguing and disputing, while a desired summit was still some -distance above him. They went on their way, gained the top, and the -traveller's equanimity was restored by a splendid view. When, on the -descent, the scene of the morning's incident was reached, the guide -pointed to the little crack in the _neve_, which had grown perceptibly -wider. 'This marks,' he said, 'the place where the true snow-field ends. -I feel certain that the ice from here to the edge is nothing but an -unsupported cornice hanging over the tremendous precipice beneath. It -might possibly have borne your weight in the early morning, though I -don't think it would. As to what it will bear now that a powerful sun -has been on it for some time--why, let us see.' Therewith he struck the -_neve_ on the further side of the ice sharply with his axe. A huge mass, -some 20 or 30 feet long, immediately broke away, and went roaring down -the cliff in angry avalanche. Whereat the traveller was full of -amazement and admiration, and thought how there, on an easy mountain and -in smiling weather, he had not been very far from making himself into an -avalanche, to his own great discomfort and to the infinite tribulation -of the Alpine Club." - -A fatal accident was only narrowly averted by the skill of the famous -guide Zurbriggen when making an ascent in the New Zealand Alps with Mr -Edward Fitzgerald. I am indebted to this gentleman for permission to -quote the account from his article in _The Alpine Journal_. - -The party were making the ascent of Mount Sefton, and were much troubled -by the looseness of the rock on the almost vertical face which they had -to climb. However, at last they reached a ridge, "along which," writes -Mr Fitzgerald, "we proceeded between two precipices, descending to the -Copland and to the Mueller valleys--some 6000 feet sheer drop on either -hand. - -"We had next to climb about 300 feet of almost perpendicular cliff. The -rocks were peculiarly insecure, and we were obliged to move by turns, -wherever possible throwing down such rocks as seemed most dangerous. At -times even this resource was denied us, so dangerous was the violent -concussion with which these falling masses would shake the ridge to -which we clung. I carried both the ice axes, so as to leave Zurbriggen -both hands free to test each rock as he slowly worked his way upwards, -while I did my utmost to avoid being in a position vertically beneath -him. - -"Suddenly, as I was coming up a steep bit, while Zurbriggen waited for -me a few steps above, a large boulder, which I touched with my right -hand, gave way with a crash and fell, striking my chest. I had been just -on the point of passing up the two ice axes to Zurbriggen, that he might -place them in a cleft of rock a little higher up, and thus leave me -both hands free for my climb. He was in the act of stooping and -stretching out his arms to take them from my uplifted left hand, and the -slack rope between us lay coiled at his feet. The falling boulder hurled -me down head foremost, and I fell about 8 feet, turning a complete -somersault in the air. Suddenly I felt the rope jerk, and I struck -against the side of the mountain with great force. I feared I should be -stunned and drop the two ice axes, and I knew that on these our lives -depended. Without them we should never have succeeded in getting down -the glacier, through all the intricate ice-fall. - -"After the rope had jerked me up I felt it again slip and give way, and -I came down slowly for a couple of yards. I took this to mean that -Zurbriggen was being wrenched from his foot-hold, and I was just -contemplating how I should feel dashing down the 6000 feet below, and -wondering vaguely how many times I should strike the rocks on the way. I -saw the block that I had dislodged going down in huge bounds; it struck -the side three or four times, and then, taking an enormous plunge of -about 2000 feet, embedded itself in the glacier now called the Tuckett -Glacier. - -"I felt the rope stop and pull me up short. I called to Zurbriggen and -asked him if he were solidly placed. I was now swinging in the air like -a pendulum, with my back to the mountain, scarcely touching the rock -face. It would have required a great effort to turn round and grasp the -rock, and I was afraid the strain which would thus necessarily be placed -on the rope might dislodge Zurbriggen. - -"His first fear was that I had been half killed, for he saw the rock -fall almost on top of me; but, as a matter of fact, after striking my -chest it had glanced off to the right and passed under my right arm; it -had started from a point so very near to me that it had not time to gain -sufficient impetus to strike me with great force. Zurbriggen's first -words were, 'Are you very much hurt?' I answered, 'No,' and again I -asked him whether he were firmly placed. 'No,' he replied, 'I am very -badly situated here. Turn round as soon as you can; I cannot hold you -much longer.' I gave a kick at the rocks with one foot, and with a great -effort managed to swing myself round. - -"Luckily there was a ledge near me, and so, getting some hand-hold, I -was soon able to ease the strain on the rope. A few moments later I -struggled a little way up, and at last handed to Zurbriggen the ice -axes, which I had managed to keep hold of throughout my fall. In fact, -my thoughts had been centred on them during the whole of the time. We -were in too bad a place to stop to speak to one another; but -Zurbriggen, climbing up a bit further, got himself into a firm position, -and I scrambled up after him, so that in about ten minutes we had passed -this steep bit. - -[Illustration: The last steep bit near the top.] - -[Illustration: An instant's halt to choose the best way up a steep wall -of rock.] - -[Illustration: At the end of a hot day.] - -[Illustration: The ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, to be brought up -by the last man. - -_To face p. 6._] - -"We now sat for a moment to recover ourselves, for our nerves had been -badly shaken by what had so nearly proved a fatal accident. At the time -everything happened so rapidly that we had not thought much of it, more -especially as we knew that we needed to keep our nerve and take -immediate action; but once it was all over we both felt the effects, and -sat for about half an hour before we could even move again. I learned -that Zurbriggen, the moment I fell, had snatched up the coil of rope -which lay at his feet, and had luckily succeeded in getting hold of the -right end first, so that he was soon able to bring me nearly to rest; -but the pull upon him was so great, and he was so badly placed, that he -had to let the rope slip through his fingers, removing all the skin, in -order to ease the strain while he braced himself in a better position, -from which he was able finally to stop me. He told me that had I not -been able to turn and grasp the rocks he must inevitably have been -dragged from his foot-hold, as the ledge upon which he stood was -literally crumbling away beneath his feet. We discovered that two -strands of the rope had been cut through by the falling rock, so that I -had been suspended in mid-air by a single strand." - -The remainder of the way was far from easy, but without further mishap -the party eventually gained the summit. - -That there are many grades of Alpine guides was amusingly exemplified -once upon a time at the Montanvert, where in front of the hotel stood -the famous Courmazeur guide, Emil Rey (afterwards killed on the Dent du -Geant), talking to the Duke of Abruzzi and other first-rate climbers, -while a little way off lounged some extremely indifferent specimens of -the Chamonix _Societe des Guides_. Presently a tourist, got up with much -elegance, and leaning on a tall stick surmounted by a chamois horn, -appeared upon the scene, and addressed himself to Emil Rey. "Combien -pour traverser la Mer de Glace?" he enquired. - -"Monsieur," replied Rey, removing his hat with one hand and with the -other indicating the group hard by, "voila les guides pour la Mer de -Glace! Moi, je suis pour la grande montagne!" - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta, of Zermatt, 1903.] - -[Illustration: The climb up the Matterhorn by the ordinary Swiss route -begins at the rocky corner to the left of the picture.] - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta on the way to the Matterhorn.] - -[Illustration: The BERGSCHRUND, open when the accident to Mr. Sloggett's -party took place, was above the ice cliff below which the man is -standing. - -_To face p. 8._] - -One of the most wonderful escapes in the whole annals of mountaineering -was that of a young Englishman, Mr Sloggett, and the well-known guide, -Auguste Gentinetta, the second guide, Alphons Fuerrer, being killed on -the spot. They had made a successful ascent of the Matterhorn on 27th -July 1900, and were the first of three parties on the descent. When -nearly down the mountain, not far from the Hoernli ridge, an avalanche of -stones and rocks swept them off their feet. Fuerrer's skull was smashed, -and he was killed immediately, and the three, roped together, were -precipitated down a wall of ice. Their axes were wrenched from their -grasp, and they could do nothing to check themselves. Gentinetta -retained full consciousness during the whole of that awful descent, and -while without the slightest hope that they could escape with their -lives, he in no way lost his presence of mind. About 800 feet below the -spot where their fall commenced was a small _Bergschrund_, or crack -across the ice. This was full of stones and sand, and into it the -helpless climbers were flung; had they shot over it nothing in this -world could have saved them. Gentinetta, though much bruised and knocked -about, had no bones broken, and he at once took means to prevent an even -worse disaster than that which had already happened, for Mr Sloggett had -fallen head downwards, with his face buried in sand, and was on the -point of suffocation. Well was it for him that his guide was a man of -promptness and courage. Without losing an instant Gentinetta pulled up -his traveller and got his face free, clearing the sand out of his mouth, -and doing all that mortal could for him. Mr Sloggett's jaw and two of -his teeth were broken, but his other injuries were far less than might -have been expected. Nevertheless, the position of the two survivors was -still a most perilous one. They were exactly at the spot on to which -almost every stone which detached itself from that side of the mountain -was sure to fall, and their ice axes were lost, rendering it almost -impossible for them to work their way to a place of safety. Still, to -his infinite credit, the guide did not lose heart. By some means, which -he now declares he is unable to understand, he contrived to climb, and -to assist his gentleman, up that glassy, blood-stained wall, which even -for a party uninjured, and properly equipped, it would have been no -light task to surmount. This desperate achievement was rendered doubly -trying by Gentinetta's being perfectly aware that if any more stones -fell the two mountaineers must inevitably be swept away for the second -time. At last they gained their tracks and sought a sheltered spot, -where they could safely rest a little. Here they were joined by the -other parties, who rendered invaluable help during the rest of the -descent. The two sufferers finally arrived at the Schwarzsee Hotel, -whence they were carried down the same evening to Zermatt. - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta on a Mountain Top, 1903.] - -[Illustration: The ruined Chapel by the Schwarzsee.] - -[Illustration: The cliff of ice over which Mr. Sloggett's party must -have precipitated if they had not been dashed into the BERGSCHRUND.] - -[Illustration: The last resting place at Zermatt of some English -climbers. - -_To face p. 11._] - -The next day a strong party started for the scene of the accident to -recover the body of the dead guide, Fuerrer. It was a difficult and a -dangerous task, and those who examined the wall down which the fall -took place expressed their amazement that two wounded men, without axes, -should have performed what seemed the incredible feat of getting up it. - -Both Mr Sloggett and Gentinetta made an excellent recovery, though they -were laid up for many weeks after their memorable descent of the -Matterhorn. - -The qualities found in a first-class guide include not only skill in -climbing, but the ability to form a sound conclusion when overtaken by -storm and mist. The following experience which took place in 1874, and -which I am permitted by Mrs Maund to quote from her late husband's -article in _The Alpine Journal_, proves, by its happy termination, that -Maurer's judgment in a critical position was thoroughly to be relied on. -Mr Maund had just arrived at La Berarde, in Dauphine, and he writes:-- - -"The morning of the 29th broke wet and stormy, and Rodier strongly -advised me not to start; this, however, was out of the question, as I -was due at La Grave on that day to keep my appointment with Mr -Middlemore. After waiting an hour, to give the weather a chance, we -started in drizzling rain at 5 A.M. Desolate as the Val des Etancons -must always look, it appeared doubly gloomy that morning, with its -never-ending monotony of rock and moraine unrelieved by a single patch -of green. As we neared the glacier, the weather fortunately cleared, -and the clouds, which till then had enveloped everything, began to mount -with that marvellous rapidity only noticeable in mountain districts, -leaving half revealed the mighty cliffs of the Meije towering 5000 feet -almost sheer above us. As the wind caught and carried into the air the -frozen sheets of snow on his summit, the old mountain looked like some -giant bill distributer throwing his advertisements about. Entirely -protected from the wind, we whiled away an hour and a half, searching -with our telescope for any feasible line of attack. Having satisfied -ourselves that on this side the mountain presented enormous, if not -insurmountable, difficulties, we shouldered our packs and made tracks -for the Breche, which we reached at 11.45. - -"Meanwhile the weather had become worse again, and during the last part -of the ascent it was snowing heavily; the wind too, from which we had -been protected on the south side of the col, was so strong that we were -absolutely obliged to crawl over to the north side. Our position was by -no means a pleasant one; neither Martin nor I knew anything of the pass, -and Rodier, who had told us overnight that he had crossed it more than -once, seemed to know no more, and although sure of the exact bearing of -La Grave, we could not, owing to the fast falling snow, see further -than 300 or 400 yards in advance; added to this, it was intensely cold. -Having paid Rodier 20 francs (a perfect waste of money, as it is -impossible to mistake the way to the Breche from the Val des Etancons, -and, as I have said, he could not give us the least clue to the descent -on the La Grave side), we dismissed him, hoping devoutly that he might -break his--well, his ice axe, we'll say--on the way down. By keeping -away to the right of the Breche and down a steep slope, we crossed the -crevasses which lay at its base without difficulty. We then bore to the -left across a plateau, on which the snow lay very deep; floundering -through this sometimes waist deep, we reached the upper ice-fall of the -glacier, and after crossing several crevasses became involved in a -perfect net-work of them. After a consultation, we determined to try to -the right, but met with no better success, as again we were checked by -an absolute labyrinth. At last, about five o'clock, we took to some -rocks which divide the glacier into two branches. Meanwhile the snow was -falling thicker and thicker, and, driven by the strong N.W. wind which -caught up and eddied about what had already fallen, it appeared to come -from every quarter at once. It was impossible to see more than a few -yards in advance, and the rocks which under ordinary circumstances -would have been easy, were, with their coating of at least 4 inches of -snow, much the reverse, as it was quite impossible to see where to put -hand or foot. Our only trust was in our compass, which assured us that -while keeping to the backbone of this ridge we were descending in an -almost direct line towards La Grave. - -"We had at most two hours of daylight before us, but there was still a -hope that by following our present line we should get off the glacier -before dark. How I regretted now the time lost in the morning. A little -before seven we were brought to a standstill; our further direct descent -was cut off by a precipice, while the rocks on either side fell almost -sheer to the glaciers beneath. It was too late to think of looking for -another road, so nothing now remained but to find the best shelter we -could and bivouac for the night. We re-ascended to a small platform we -had passed a short time before, and selecting the biggest and most -sheltered bit of rock on it, we piled up the few movable stones there -were about, to form the outside wall to our shelter, and having cleared -away as much of the snow as we could from the inside, laid our ice axes -across the top as rafters, with a sodden mackintosh--ironically called a -waterproof by Mr Carter--over all for a roof. Despite this garment, I -was wet to the skin. Luckily, we had each of us a spare flannel shirt -and stockings in our knapsacks, but as the meagre dimensions of our -shelter would not admit of the struggles attendant on a change, we were -obliged to go through the operation outside. I tried to be cheerful, and -Martin tried to be facetious as we wrung out our wet shirts while the -snow beat on our bare backs, but both attempts were lamentable failures. -If up to the present time my readers have not stripped in a snow-storm, -let me strongly advise them never to attempt it. Having got through the -performance as quickly as possible, we crawled into our shelter, but -here again my ill luck followed me, for in entering I managed to tread -on the tin wine-flask which Martin had thrown aside, and, my weight -forcing out the cork, every drop of wine escaped. After packing myself -away as well as I could in the shape of a pot-hook, Martin followed, and -pot-hooked himself alongside me. We were obliged to assume this -elementary shape, as the size of our shelter would not admit of our -lying straight. All the provisions that remained were then produced. -They consisted of a bit of bread about the size of a breakfast-roll, -one-third of a small pot of preserved meat, about two ounces of raw -bacon with the hide on, and half a small flask of a filthy compound -called Genepie, a sort of liqueur; besides this, we mustered between us -barely a pipe-full of tobacco, and eight matches in a metal-box. The -provisions I divided into three equal parts--one-third for that night's -supper, and the remaining two-thirds for the next day. I need not -enlarge on the miseries of that night. The wind blew through the chinks -between the stones, bringing the snow with it, until the place seemed -all chinks; then the mackintosh with its weight of snow would come in -upon us, and we had with infinite difficulty to prop it up again, only -to go through the same operation an hour later; at last, in sheer -despair, we let it lie where it fell, and found to our relief it kept us -warmer in that position. The snow never ceased one moment although the -wind had fallen, and when morning broke there must have been nearly a -foot of it around and over us. A more desolate picture than that dawn I -have never seen. Snow everywhere. The rocks buried in it, and not a -point peeping out to relieve the unbroken monotony. The sky full of it, -without a break to relieve its leaden sameness, and the heavy flakes -falling with that persistent silence which adds so much to the -desolation of such a scene. - -"I was all for starting; for making some attempt either to get down, or -to recross the col. Martin was dead against it--and I think now he was -right. First of all, we could not have seen more than a few yards ahead; -the rocks would have been considerably worse than they were the evening -before, and if we had once got involved amongst the crevasses it was on -the cards that we shouldn't get clear of them again; added to this, even -if we could hit off the col, what with want of sleep and food, and the -fatigue consequent on several hours' floundering in deep snow, we might -not have strength to reach it. At any rate, we decided not to start -until it cleared sufficiently to let us see where we were going. Our -meagre stock of provisions was redivided into three parts, one of which -we ate for breakfast. I then produced the pipe, but to our horror we -found the matches were still damp. Martin, who is a man of resource, -immediately opened his shirt and put the box containing them under his -arm to dry. Meanwhile the snow never ceased, and the day wore on without -a sign of the weather breaking. If it had not been for the excitement of -those matches, I do not know how we should have got through that day; at -last, however, after about six hours of Martin's fond embrace, one -consented to burn, and I succeeded in lighting the pipe. We took turns -at twelve whiffs each, and no smoke, I can conscientiously say, have I -ever enjoyed like that one. During this never-ending day we got a few -snatches of sleep, but the cold consequent on our wet clothes was so -great, our position so cramped, and the rocks on which we lay so -abominably sharp, that these naps were of the shortest duration. - -"A little before six the snow ceased, and for a moment the sun tried to -wink at us through a chink in his snow-charged blanket, before he went -to bed--long enough, however, for us to see La Grave far below, with -every alp almost down to the village itself covered with its white -mantle. - -"And then, as our second night closes in, the snow recommences, and we -draw closer together even than before; for we feel that during the long -hours to come we must economise to the fullest the little animal heat -left in us. - -"That night I learnt to shiver, not the ordinary shivers, but fits -lasting a quarter of an hour, during which no amount of moral persuasion -could keep your limbs under control; and it was so catching! If either -of us began a solo, the other was sure to join in, and we shivered a -duet until quite exhausted. As we had nothing to drink, I had swallowed -a considerable quantity of snow to quench my thirst, and this, acting on -an almost empty stomach, produced burning heat within, while the cold, -which was now intense, acting externally, induced fever and -light-headedness, and once or twice I caught myself rambling. Martin, -too, was affected in the same way. The long hours wore on, and still -there was no sign of better weather. Towards midnight things looked very -serious. Martin, who had behaved like a brick, thought 'it was very hard -to perish like this in the flower of his age,' and I, too, thought of -writing a line as well as I was able in my pocket-book, bequeathing its -contents to my finder, then of sleeping if I could and waking up with -the Houris; but I had the laugh of him afterwards, because he thought -aloud and I to myself. However, this mood did not last long, and after -shaking hands, I do not quite know why, because we had not quarrelled, -we cuddled up again, and determined, whatever the weather, to start at -daybreak. In half an hour the snow ceased, the wind backed to the S., -and the temperature rose as if by magic; while the snow melting above -trickled down in little streams upon us. We cleared the snow off the -mackintosh, and putting it over us again, slept like logs in comparative -warmth. When I awoke the sun was well up, and on looking round I could -hardly realise the scene. Not a cloud in the sky! Not a breath of wind! -The rocks around us, which yesterday were absolutely buried, were -showing their black heads everywhere, and only a few inches of snow -remained, so rapid had been the thaw; while far away to the N. the -snow-capped summits of the Pennine Alps stood out in bold relief against -the cloudless sky. - -"I woke Martin, and at a quarter to six, after thirty-five hours' -burial, we crawled out of our shelter. At first neither of us could -stand, so chilled were we by long exposure, and so cramped by our -enforced position, but after a good thaw in the hot sun we managed to -hobble about, and pack the knapsacks. After eating the few scraps that -remained, we started at seven o'clock up the ridge that we had descended -two days before. - -"We were very shaky on our legs at first, but at each step the stiffness -seemed to wear off, and after half an hour we quite recovered their use; -but there remained an all-pervading sense of emptiness inside that was -not exhilarating. After ascending a short distance, and with my -telescope carefully examining the rocks, we determined to descend to the -glacier below us (the western branch), and crossing this get on to some -more rocks beneath the lower ice-fall. If we could get down these our -way seemed clear. - -"I won't trouble you with the details of the descent: suffice it to say -that, without encountering any difficulty, we stepped on to grass about -twelve o'clock, and descending green slopes, still patched here and -there with snow (which would have provided sufficient Edelweiss for all -the hats of the S.A.C.), we arrived safely at La Grave, after a pleasant -little outing of fifty-six hours. Mr Middlemore, despairing of my -coming, had started for England the night before, and had left Jaun to -await my arrival. - -"After a hot bath, and some bread-crumbs soaked in warm wine, I went to -bed, and the next morning I awoke as well as I am now, with the -exception of stiffness in the knees, and a slight frost-bite on one -hand. Martin, however, who, I suspect, had eaten a good deal on his -arrival, was seized with severe cramp, and for some hours was very ill. - -"Two days' rest put us all to rights again." - -Though rivalry may be keen between first-class guides, and bitter things -be said now and then in the heat of the struggle for first place, yet -when a great guide has passed away, it is seldom that one hears anything -but good of him. A pretty story is told--and I believe it is true--of -the son of old Maquignaz of Valtournanche, which exemplifies this -chivalrous trait. Maquignaz and Jean Antoine Carrel were often in -competition in the early days of systematic climbing, and if not -enemies, they were at any rate hardly bosom friends. Carrel's tragic and -noble death on the Matterhorn will be recalled by readers of my _True -Tales of Mountain Adventure_. Not very long ago a French climber was -making an ascent of the Italian side of the Matterhorn, with "young" -Maquignaz as guide. "Where did Carrel fall?" he innocently enquired, as -they ascended the precipitous cliffs on the Breuil side of the mountain. -Young Maquignaz turned sharply to him and exclaimed: "Carrel n'est pas -tombe! _Il est mort!_" - - - - -CHAPTER II - -TWO DAYS ON AN ICE-SLOPE - - -There are few instances so striking of the capacity of a party of -thoroughly experienced mountaineers to get out of a really tight place, -as was the outcome of the two days spent by Messrs Mummery, Slingsby, -and Ellis Carr, on an ice slope in the Mont Blanc district. The party -intended trying to ascend the Aiguille du Plan direct from the Chamonix -valley. Mr Ellis Carr has generously given me permission to make use of -his account, which I quote from _The Alpine Journal_. He relates the -adventures of himself and his two friends, whose names are household -words to climbers, as follows:-- - -"Mummery, Slingsby, and I started at 4 P.M., with a porter carrying the -material for our camp. This comprised a silk tent of Mummery's pattern, -only weighing 11/2 to 2 lbs.; three eider-down sleeping-bags, 9 lbs.; -cooking apparatus of thin tin, 11/2 lbs.; or, with ropes, rucksacks, and -sundries, about 25 lbs., in addition to the weight of the provisions. -Though not unduly burdened, the porter found the valley of boulders -exceedingly troublesome, and in spite of three distinct varieties of -advice as to the easiest route across them, made such miserably slow -progress, often totally disappearing amongst the rocks like a -water-logged ship in a trough of the sea, that we were forced to pitch -our tents on the right moraine of the Nantillons Glacier, instead of -near the base of our peak, as intended. The _gite_, built up with stones -on the slope of the moraine, with earth raked into the interstices, was -sufficiently comfortable to afford Mummery and myself some sleep. A -stone, however, far surpassing the traditional _gite_ lump in aggressive -activity, seemed, most undeservedly, to have singled out Slingsby as its -innocent victim, and, judging by the convulsions of his sleeping-bag, -and the sighs and thumps which were in full swing every time I woke up, -it must have kept him pretty busy all night dodging its attacks from -side to side. His account of his sufferings next morning, when Mummery -and I were admittedly awake, fully confirmed and explained these -phenomena, but on going for the enemy by daylight, he had the -satisfaction of finding that he had suffered quite needlessly, the stone -being loose and easily removed. We used Mummery's silk tent for the -first time, and found that it afforded ample room for three men to lie -at full length without crowding. The night, however, was too fine and -still to test the weather-resisting power of the material, and as this -was thin enough to admit sufficient moonlight to illuminate the interior -of the tent, and make candle or lamp superfluous, we inferred that it -might possibly prove to be equally accommodating in the case of rain and -wind. It was necessary, moreover, on entering or leaving the tent, to -adopt that form of locomotion to which the serpent was condemned to -avoid the risk of unconsciously carrying away the whole structure on -one's back. We started next morning about three o'clock, leaving the -camp kit ready packed for the porter, whom we had instructed to fetch it -during the day, and pushed on to the glacier at the foot of our mountain -at a steady pace, maintained in my case with much greater ease than -would have otherwise been possible by virtue of some long, -single-pointed screw spikes inserted overnight in my boot soles; and I -may here venture to remark that a few of these spikes, screwed into the -boots before starting on an expedition where much ice-work is expected, -appear to offer a welcome compromise between ponderous crampons and -ordinary nails. They do not, I think, if not too numerous, interfere -with rock-climbing, and can be repeatedly renewed when worn down. A -slight modification in the shape would further facilitate their being -screwed in with a box key made to fit.[1] - -"Leaving the rock buttress, the scene of our reconnaissance on the 11th, -on the right, we struck straight up the glacier basin between it and the -Aiguille de Blaitiere, which glacier appeared to me to be largely -composed of broken fragments of ice mixed with avalanche snow from the -hanging glaciers and slopes above. Keeping somewhat to the left, we -reached the _bergschrund_, which proved to be of considerable size, -extending along the whole base of the couloir, and crossed it at a point -immediately adjoining the rocks on the left. The axe at once came into -requisition, and we cut steadily in hard ice up and across the couloir -towards the small rib or island of rock before-mentioned as dividing it -higher up into two portions. The rocks at the base of this rib, though -steep, gritty, and loose, offered more rapid going than the ice, and we -climbed then to a gap on the ridge above, commanding a near view of the -perpendicular country in front of us. Far above us, and immediately over -the top of the right-hand section of the couloir, towered the ice cliffs -of the hanging glacier we had tried to reach on the 11th, and beyond -these again, in the grey morning light, we caught the glimpse of a -second and even a third rank of _seracs_ in lofty vista higher up the -mountain. As before observed, this section of the couloir seemed -admirably placed for receiving ice-falls, and we now saw that it formed -part of the natural channel for snow and _debris_ from each and all of -these glaciers. We therefore directed our attention to our friend on the -left, and after a halt for breakfast, traversed the still remaining -portion of the dividing ridge, turning a small rock pinnacle on its -right, and recommenced cutting steps in the hard ice which faced us. As -has been before remarked, it is difficult to avoid over-estimating the -steepness of ice-slopes, but, allowing for any tendency towards -exaggeration, I do not think I am wrong in fixing the angle of the -couloir from this point as not less than 50 deg.. We kept the axe steadily -going, and with an occasional change of leader, after some hours' -unceasing work, found ourselves approaching the base of the upper -portion of the couloir, which from below had appeared perpendicular. We -paused to consider the situation. For at least 80 to 100 feet the ice -rose at an angle of 60 deg. to 70 deg., cutting off all view of the face above, -with no flanking wall of rock on the right, but bounded on the left by -an overhanging cliff, which dripped slightly with water from melting -snow above. The morning was well advanced, and we kept a sharp look-out -aloft for any stray stones which might fancy a descent in our direction. -None came, and we felt gratified at this confirmation of our judgment -as to the safety of this part of the couloir. However, the time for -chuckling had not yet come. As I stated, we had halted to inspect the -problem before us. Look as we might we could discover no possibility of -turning the ice wall either to the right or left, and though, as we -fondly believed and hoped, it formed the only barrier to easier going -above, the terrible straightness and narrowness of the way was -sufficient to make the very boldest pause to consider the strength of -his resources. - -"How long _I_ should have paused before beating a retreat, if asked to -lead the way up such a place, I will not stop to enquire, but I clearly -remember that my efforts to form some estimate of the probable demand on -my powers such a feat would involve were cut short by Mummery's quiet -announcement that he was ready to make the attempt. Let me here state -that amongst Mummery's other mountaineering qualifications not the least -remarkable is his power of inspiring confidence in those who are -climbing with him, and that both Slingsby and I experienced this is -proved by the fact that we at once proceeded, without misgiving or -hesitation, to follow his lead. We had hitherto used an 80-feet rope, -but now, by attaching a spare 100-feet length of thin rope, used double, -we afforded the leader an additional 50 feet. Mummery commenced -cutting, and we soon approached the lower portion of the actual ice -wall, where the angle of the slope cannot have been less than 60 deg.. - -"I am not aware that any authority has fixed the exact degree of -steepness at which it becomes impossible to use the ice axe with both -hands, but, whatever portion of a right angle the limit may be, Mummery -very soon reached it, and commenced excavating with his right hand caves -in the ice, each with an internal lateral recess by which to support his -weight with his left. Slingsby and I, meanwhile possessing our souls in -patience, stood in our respective steps, as on a ladder, and watched his -steady progress with admiration, so far as permitted us by the falling -ice dislodged by the axe. - -"Above our heads the top of the wall was crowned by a single projecting -stone towards which the leader cut, and which, when reached, just -afforded sufficient standing-room for both feet. The ice immediately -below this stone, for a height of 12 or 14 feet, was practically -perpendicular, and Slingsby's definition of it as a 'frozen waterfall' -is the most appropriate I can find. Here and there Mummery found it -necessary to cut through its entire thickness, exposing the face of the -rock behind. - -"On reaching the projecting stone the leader was again able to use the -axe with both hands, and slowly disappeared from view; thus completing, -without pause or hitch of any kind, the most extraordinary feat of -mountaineering skill and nerve it has ever been my privilege to witness. - -"The top of the wall surmounted, Slingsby and I expected every moment to -hear the welcome summons to follow to easier realms above. None came. -Time passed, the only sounds besides the occasional drip of water from -the rocks on our left, or the growl of a distant avalanche, being that -of the axe and the falling chips of ice, as they whizzed by or struck -our heads or arms with increasing force. The sounds of the axe strokes -gradually became inaudible, but the shower continued to pound us without -mercy for more than an hour of inaction, perhaps more trying to the -nerves, in such a position, than the task of leading. The monotony was -to some extent varied by efforts to ward off from our heads the blows of -the falling ice, and by the excitement, at intervals, of seeing the -slack rope hauled up a foot or so at a time. It had almost become taut, -and we were preparing to follow, when a shout from above, which sounded -from where we stood muffled and far away, for more rope, kept us in our -places. It was all very well to demand more rope, but not so easy to -comply. The only possible way to give extra length was to employ the 100 -feet of thin rope single, instead of double, at which we hesitated at -first, but, as Mummery shouted that it was absolutely necessary, we -managed to make the change, though it involved Slingsby's getting out of -the rope entirely during the operation. To any one who has not tried it -I should hardly venture to recommend, as an enjoyable diversion, the -process, which must necessarily occupy both hands, of removing and -re-adjusting 180 feet of rope on an ice slope exceeding 60 deg. at the top -of a steep couloir some 1000 feet high. The task accomplished, we had -not much longer to wait before the shout to come on announced the -termination of our martyrdom. We went on, but, on passing in turn the -projecting stone, and catching sight of the slope above, we saw at a -glance that our hopes of easy going must, for the present, be postponed. -Mummery, who had halted at the full extent of his tether of about 120 -feet of rope, was standing in his steps on an ice slope quite as steep -as that below the foot of the wall we had just surmounted. He had been -cutting without intermission for two hours, and suggested a change. -Being last on the rope, I therefore went ahead, cutting steps to pass, -and took up the work with the axe. The ice here was occasionally in -double layer, the outer one some 3 or 4 inches in thickness, which, when -cut through, revealed a space of about equal depth behind, an -arrangement at times very convenient, as affording good hand-holes -without extra labour. I went on for some time cutting pigeon-holes on -the right side of the couloir, and, at the risk of being unorthodox, I -would venture to point out what appears to me the advantages of this -kind of step on very steep ice. Cut in two perpendicular rows, -alternately for each foot, the time lost in zigzags is saved, and no -turning steps are necessary; they do not require the ice to be cut away -so much for the leg as in the case of lateral steps, and are therefore -less easily filled up by falling chips and snow. Being on account of -their shape more protected from the sun's heat, they are less liable to -be spoiled by melting, and have the further advantage of keeping the -members of the party in the same perpendicular line, and consequently in -a safer position. They also may serve as hand-holds. To cut such steps -satisfactorily it is necessary that the axe be provided with a point -long enough to penetrate to the full depth required for the -accommodation of the foot up to the instep, without risk of injury to -the shaft by repeated contact with the ice. - -"As we had now been going for several hours without food, and since -leaving the rock rib, where we had breakfasted, had come across no ledge -or irregularity of any kind affording a resting-place, it was with no -little satisfaction that I descried, on the opposite side of the -couloir, at a spot about 30 or 40 feet above, where the cliff on our -left somewhat receded, several broken fragments of rock cropping out of -the ice, of size and shape to provide seats for the whole party. We cut -up and across to them, and sat down, or rather hooked ourselves on, for -a second breakfast. We were here approximately on a level with the -summit of our rock buttress of the 11th, and saw that it was only -connected with the mountain by a broken and dangerous-looking ridge of -ice and _neve_ running up to an ice-slope at the foot of the glacier -cliffs. The gap in the latter was not visible from our position. The -tower we had tried to turn appeared far below, and the intervening rocks -of the buttress, though not jagged, were steep and smooth like a roof. -The first gleams of sunshine now arrived to cheer us, and, getting under -way once more, we pushed on hopefully, as the couloir was rapidly -widening and the face of the mountain almost in full view. We had also -surmounted the rock wall which had so long shut out the prospect on our -left, and it was at this point that, happening to glance across the -slabs, we caught sight of a large flat rock rapidly descending. It did -not bound nor roll, but slid quietly down with a kind of stealthy haste, -as if it thought, though rather late, it might still catch us, and was -anxious not to alarm us prematurely. It fell harmlessly into the -couloir, striking the ice near the rock rib within a few feet of our -tracks, and we saw no other falling stones while we were on the -mountain. - -"Leaving the welcome resting-place, Mummery again took the lead, and cut -up and across the couloir, now becoming less steep, to a rib or patch of -rocks higher up on the right, which we climbed to its upper extremity, a -distance of some 70 or 80 feet. - -"Here, taking to the ice once more, we soon approached the foot of the -first great snow-slope on the face, and rejoiced in the near prospect of -easier going. At the top of this slope, several hundred feet straight -before us, was a low cliff or band of rocks, for which we decided to -aim, there being throughout the entire length of the intervening slope -no suspicious grey patches to indicate ice. The angle was, moreover, -much less severe, and it being once more my turn to lead, I went at it -with the zealous intention of making up time. My ardour was, however, -considerably checked at finding, when but a short distance up the slope, -that the coating of _neve_ was so exceedingly thin as to be insufficient -for good footing without cutting through the hard ice below. Instead, -therefore, of continuing in a straight line for the rocks, we took an -oblique course to the right, towards one of the hanging glaciers before -referred to, and crossing a longitudinal crevasse, climbed without much -difficulty up its sloping bank of _neve_. Hurrah! here was good snow at -last, only requiring at most a couple of slashes with the adze end of -the axe for each step. If this continued we had a comparatively easy -task before us, as the rocks above, though smooth and steep, were broken -up here and there by bands and streaks of snow. Taking full advantage of -this our first opportunity for making speed, we cut as fast as possible -and made height rapidly. We still aimed to strike the band of rocks -before described, though at a point much more to the right, and nearer -to where its extremity was bounded by the ice-cliffs of another hanging -glacier; but, alas! as we approached nearer and nearer to the base of -the cliffs, looming apparently higher and higher over our heads, the -favouring _neve_, over which we had been making such rapid progress, -again began to fail, and before we could reach the top of the once more -steepening slope the necessity of again resorting to the pick end of the -axe brought home the unwelcome conviction that our temporary respite had -come to an end, and that, instead of snow above, and apart from what -help the smooth rocks might afford, nothing was to be expected but hard, -unmitigated ice. - -"We immediately felt that, as it was already past noon, the -establishment of this fact would put a totally different complexion on -our prospects of success, and, instead of reaching the summit, we might -have to content ourselves with merely crossing the ridge. We continued -cutting, however, and reached the rocks, the last part of the slope -having once more become exceedingly steep. To turn the cliff, here -unclimbable, we first spent over half an hour in prospecting to the -right, where a steep ice-gully appeared between the rocks and the -hanging glacier; but, abandoning this, we struck off to the left, -cutting a long traverse, during which we were able to hitch the rope to -rocks cropping out through the ice. The traverse landed us in a kind of -gully, where, taking to the rocks whenever practicable, though climbing -chiefly by the ice, we reached a broken stony ledge, large and flat -enough to serve as a luncheon place, the only spot we had come across -since leaving the rock rib, where it was possible really to rest -sitting. Luncheon over, we proceeded as before, choosing the rocks as -far as possible by way of change, though continually obliged to take to -the ice-streaks by which they were everywhere intersected. This went on -all the rest of the afternoon, till, when daylight began to wane, we had -attained an elevation considerably above the gap between our mountain -and the Aiguille de Blaitiere, or more than 10,900 feet above the sea. - -"The persistent steepness and difficulty of the mountain had already put -our reaching the ridge before dark entirely out of the question, though -we decided to keep going as long as daylight lasted, so as to leave as -little work as possible for the morrow. - -"The day had been gloriously fine, practically cloudless throughout, and -I shall never forget the weird look of the ice-slopes beneath, turning -yellow in the evening light, and plunging down and disappearing far -below in the mists which were gathering at the base of the mountain; -also, far, far away, we caught a glimpse of the Lake of Geneva, -somewhere near Lausanne. I had turned away from the retrospect, when an -exclamation from Slingsby called me to look once more. A gap had -appeared in the mists, and there, some 2700 feet below us, as it were on -an inferior stage of the world, we caught a glimpse of the snow-field at -the very foot of the mountain, dusky yellow in the last rays of the sun. -Mummery was in the meantime continuing the everlasting chopping, in the -intervals of crawling up disobliging slabs of rock, till twilight began -to deepen into darkness, and we had to look about for a perch on which -to roost for the night. The only spot we could find, sufficiently large -for all three of us to sit, was a small patch of lumps of rocks, more or -less loose, some 20 or 30 feet below where we stood, and we succeeded, -just as the light failed, or about 8.30 P.M., and after some -engineering, in seating ourselves side by side upon it. Our boots were -wet through by long standing in ice-steps, and we took them off and -wrung the water out of our stockings. The others put theirs on again, -but, as a precaution against frost-bite, having pocketed my stockings, I -put my feet, wrapped in a woollen cap, inside the rucksack, with the -result that they remained warm through the night. The half hour which it -took me next morning to pull on the frozen boots proved, however, an -adequate price for the privilege of having warm feet. As a precaution -against falling off our shelf we hitched the rope over a rock above and -passed it round us, and to make sure of not losing my boots (awful -thought!), I tied them to it by the laces. - -"After dinner we settled down to spend the evening. The weather -fortunately remained perfect, and the moon had risen, though hidden from -us by our mountain. Immediately below lay Chamonix, like a cheap -illumination, gradually growing more patchy as the night advanced and -the candles went out one by one, while above the stars looked down as -if silently wondering why in the world we were sitting there. The first -two hours were passed without very much discomfort, but having left -behind our extra wraps to save weight, as time wore on the cold began to -make itself felt, and though fortunately never severe enough to be -dangerous, made us sufficiently miserable. Packed as we were, we were -unable to indulge in those exercises generally adopted to induce warmth, -and we shivered so vigorously at intervals that, when all vibrating in -unison, we wondered how it might affect the stability of our perch. -Sudden cramp in a leg, too, could only be relieved by concerted action, -it being necessary for the whole party to rise solemnly together like a -bench of judges, while the limb was stretched out over the valley of -Chamonix till the pain abated, and it could be folded up and packed away -once more. We sang songs, told anecdotes, and watched the ghostly effect -of the moonlight on a subsidiary pinnacle of the mountain, the -illuminated point of which, in reality but a short distance away, looked -like a phantom Matterhorn seen afar off over an inky black _arete_ -formed by the shadow thrown across its base by the adjoining ridge. We -had all solemnly vowed not to drop asleep, and for me this was -essential, as my centre of gravity was only just within the base of -support; but while endeavouring to give effect to another chorus, in -spite of the very troublesome _vibrato_ before referred to, I was -grieved and startled at the sudden superfluous interpolation of two -sustained melancholy bass notes, each in a different key and ominously -suggestive of snoring. The pensive attitude of my companions' heads -being in keeping with their song, in accordance with a previous -understanding, I imparted to Mummery, who sat next to me, a judicious -shock, but, as in the case of a row of billiard balls in contact, the -effect was most noticeable at the far end, and _Slingsby_ awoke, -heartily agreeing with me how weak it was of Mummery to give way thus. -The frequent necessity for repeating this operation, with strengthening -variations as the effect wore off, soon stopped the chorus which, like -Sullivan's 'Lost Chord,' trembled away into silence. - -"The lights of Chamonix had by this time shrunk to a mere moth-eaten -skeleton of their earlier glory, and I became weakly conscious of a sort -of resentment at the callous selfishness of those who could thus sneak -into their undeserved beds, without a thought of the three devoted -explorers gazing down at them from their eyrie on the icy rocks. - -"From 2 to 4 o'clock the cold became more intense, aggravated by a -slight 'breeze of morning,' and while waiting for dawn we noticed that -it was light enough to see. - -"Daylight, however, did not help Mummery to find his hat, and we -concluded it had retired into the _bergschrund_ under cover of darkness. - -"We helped each other into a standing position, and decided to start for -the next patch of rocks above, from there to determine what chance of -success there might be in making a dash for the summit, or, failing -this, of simply crossing the ridge and descending to the Col du Geant. -There was very little food left, and, as we had brought no wine, -breakfast was reduced to a slight sketch, executed with little taste and -in a few very dry touches. Owing to the time required to disentangle -virulently kinked and frozen ropes, etc., the sun was well above the -horizon when we once more started upwards, though unfortunately, just at -this time, when his life-giving rays would have been most acceptable, -they were entirely intercepted by the ridge of the Blaitiere. We started -on the line of steps cut the night before, but soon after Mummery had -recommenced cutting, the cold, or rather the impossibility, owing to the -enforced inaction, to get warm, produced such an overpowering feeling of -drowsiness that Slingsby and I, at Mummery's suggestion, returned to the -perch, and jamming ourselves into the space which had before -accommodated our six legs, endeavoured to have it out in forty winks. -Mummery meanwhile continued step-cutting, and at the end of about half -an hour, during which Slingsby and I were somewhat restored by a fitful -dose, returned, and we tied on again for another attempt. - -"Surmounting the patches of rock immediately above our dormitory, we -arrived at the foot of another slope of terribly steep, hard ice, some -200 feet in height. At the top of this again was a vertical crag 14 or -15 feet high, forming the outworks of the next superior band of rocks, -which was interspersed with ice-streaks as before. A few feet from the -base of this crag was a narrow ledge about 1 foot in width, where we -were able to sit after scraping it clear of snow. Slingsby gave Mummery -a leg up round a very nasty corner, and he climbed to a point above the -crag, whence he was able to assist us with the rope up a still higher -and narrower ledge. Beyond was another steep slope of hard ice, topped -by a belt of rocks, as before. - -"Before reaching this point the cold had again begun to tell upon me, -and I bitterly regretted the mistaken policy of leaving behind our extra -wraps, especially as the coat I was wearing was not lined. As there was -no probability of a change for the better in the nature of the going -before the ridge was reached, I began to doubt the wisdom of proceeding, -affected as I was, where a false step might send the whole party into -the _bergschrund_ 3000 feet below; but it was very hard, with the summit -in view and the most laborious part of the ascent already accomplished, -to be the first to cry 'Hold!' I hesitated for some time before doing -so, and the others meanwhile had proceeded up the slope. The rope was -almost taut when I shouted to them the state of the case, and called a -council of war. They returned to me, and we discussed what was -practically something of the nature of a dilemma. To go on at the same -slow rate of progress and without the sun's warmth meant, on the one -hand, the possible collapse of at least one of the party from cold, -while, on the other hand, to turn back involved the descent of nearly -3000 feet of ice, and the passage, if we could not turn it, of the -couloir and its ghastly ice-wall. Partly, I think, to delay for a time -the adoption of the latter formidable alternative, partly to set at rest -any doubt which might still remain as to the nature of the going above, -Mummery volunteered to ascend alone to the rocks at the summit of the -ice-slope, though the chance of their offering any improved conditions -was generally felt to be a forlorn hope. He untied the rope, threw the -end down to us, and retraced his steps up the slope, in due time -reaching the rocks some 100 or 130 feet above, but, after prospecting in -more than one direction, returned to us with the report that they -offered no improvement, and that the intersecting streaks were nothing -but hard ice. He, however, was prepared to continue the attempt if we -felt equal to the task. If we could at that moment have commanded a cup -of hot soup or tea, or the woollen jackets which in our confidence in -being able to reach the ridge we had left behind, I am convinced I -should have been quite able to proceed, and that the day and the -mountain would have been ours; but in the absence of these reviving -influences and that of the sun, I was conscious that in my own case, at -any rate, it would be folly to persist, so gave my vote for descending. -As the food was practically exhausted, the others agreed that it would -be wiser to face the terrible ordeal which retracing our steps involved -(we did not then know that it meant recutting them), rather than -continue the ascent with weakened resources and without absolute -certainty of the accessibility of the summit ridge. - -"As Slingsby on the previous day had insisted on being regarded merely -as a passenger, and had therefore not shared in the step-cutting, it was -now arranged that he should lead, while Mummery, as a tower of strength, -brought up the rear. Though it was past five o'clock, and of course -broad daylight, a bright star could be seen just over the ridge of our -mountain, not far from the summit--alas! the only one anywhere near it -on that day. We started downwards at a steady pace, and soon were -rejoicing in the returning warmth induced by the more continuous -movement. Before we had gone far, however, we found that most of the -steps were partially filled up with ice, water having flowed into them -during the previous afternoon, and the work of trimming or practically -recutting these was at times exceedingly trying, owing to their distance -apart, and the consequent necessity of working in a stooping and cramped -position. - -"But if the work was tough the worker, fortunately, was tougher still, -and Mummery and I congratulated ourselves on being able to send such -powerful reserves to the front. - -"The morning was well advanced before the sun surmounted the cold screen -of the Blaitiere, but having once got to work he certainly made up by -intensity for his tardy appearance. - -"The provisions, with the exception of a scrap or two of cheese and a -morsel of chocolate, being exhausted, and having, as before stated, -nothing with us in the form of drink, nothing was to be gained by a -halt, though, as we descended with as much speed as possible, we kept a -sharp look-out for any signs of trickling water with which to quench the -thirst, which was becoming distressing. - -"Since finally deciding to return, we had cherished the hope that it -might still be possible to turn the ice-wall by way of the great rock -buttress, and made up our minds at any rate to inspect it from above. -With this in view, when the point was reached where we had on the -previous day struck the flank of the hanging glacier instead of -continuing in the tracks which trended to the right across the long -ice-slope, we cut straight down by the side of the glacier to its foot, -and over the slope below, in the direction of the _seracs_ immediately -crowning the summit of the buttress. - -"On nearer approach, however, it was manifest that even if by hours of -step-cutting a passage from the ice to the rocky crest below could be -successfully forced, descent by the latter was more than doubtful, while -the consequences of failure were not to be thought of. - -"Driven, therefore, finally to descend by the couloir, we cut a -horizontal traverse which brought us back into the old tracks, a short -way above the point where the ice began to steepen for the final plunge, -where we braced ourselves for the last and steepest 1000 feet of ice. -Slingsby still led, and, on arriving at the spot below our second -breakfast-place, where I had last cut pigeon-holes, joyfully announced -that one of them contained water. He left his drinking cup in an -adjoining step for our use as we passed the spot in turn, and the fact -that it was only visible when on a level with our faces may give some -idea of the steepness of the descent. The delight of that drink was -something to remember, though only obtainable in thimblefuls, and I -continued dipping so long that Mummery became alarmed, being under the -impression that the cup was filled each time. - -"Mummery had previously volunteered, in case we were driven to return by -the couloir, to descend first, and recut the steps and hand-holes in the -ice-wall, and as we approached the brink we looked about for some -projecting stone or knob of rock which might serve as a hitch for the -rope during the operation. The only available projection was a pointed -stone of doubtful security, somewhat removed from the line of descent, -standing out of the ice at the foot of a smooth vertical slab of rock on -the left. Round this we hitched the rope, Slingsby untying to give the -necessary length. With our feet firmly planted, each in its own -ice-step, we paid out the rope as Mummery descended and disappeared over -the edge. It was an hour before he re-appeared, and this period of -enforced inaction was to me, and I think to Slingsby, the most trying of -the whole expedition. The want of food was beginning to tell on our -strength, the overpowering drowsiness returned, and though it was -absolutely essential for the safety of the party to stand firmly in the -ice-steps, it required a strong effort to avoid dropping off to sleep in -that position. We were fortunately able to steady ourselves by grasping -the upper edge of the ice where it adjoined the rocky slab under which -we stood. This weariness, however, must have been quite as much mental -as physical from the long-continued monotony of the work, for when -Mummery at last reappeared we felt perfectly equal to the task of -descending. The rope was passed behind a boss of _neve_ ingeniously -worked by Mummery as a hitch to keep it perpendicular, and I descended -first, but had no occasion to rely upon it for more than its moral -support, as the steps and hand-holds had been so carefully cut. I -climbed cautiously down the icy cataract till I reached a point where -hand-holds were not essential to maintain the balance, and waited with -my face almost against the ice till Slingsby joined me. Mummery soon -followed, and rather than leave the spare rope behind detached it from -the stone and descended without its aid, his nerve being to all -appearance unimpaired by the fatigues he had gone through. I had before -had evidence of his indifference while on the mountains to all forms of -food or drink, with the single exception, by the way, of strawberry jam, -on the production of which he generally capitulates. - -"Rejoicing at having successfully passed the steepest portion of the -ice-wall without the smallest hitch of the wrong sort, we steadily -descended the face of the couloir. - -"Here and there, where a few of the steps had been hewn unusually far -apart, I was fain to cut a notch or two for the fingers before lowering -myself into the next one below. At last the rock rib was reached, and we -indulged in a rest for the first time since turning to descend. - -"Time, however, was precious, and we were soon under way again, -retracing our steps over the steep loose rocks at the base of the rib -till forced again on to the ice. - -"Oh, that everlasting hard ice-slope, so trustworthy yet so relentlessly -exacting! - -"Before we could clear the rocks, and as if by way of hint that the -mountain had had enough of us, and of me in particular (I could have -assured it the feeling was mutual), a flick of the rope sent my hat and -goggles flying down to keep company with Mummery's in the _bergschrund_, -and a sharp rolling stone, which I foolishly extended my hand to check, -gashed me so severely as to put climbing out of the question for more -than a week. As small pieces of ice had been whizzing down for some time -from above, though we saw no stones, it was satisfactory to find our -steps across the lower part of the couloir in sufficiently good order to -allow of our putting on a good pace, and we soon reached the sheltering -rock on the opposite side and the slopes below the _bergschrund_ wherein -our hats, after losing their heads, had found a grave. The intense -feeling of relief on regaining, at 5.55 P.M., safe and easy ground, -where the lives of the party were not staked on every step, is difficult -to describe, and was such as I had never before experienced. I think the -others felt something like the same sensation. Fatigue, kept at bay so -long as the stern necessity for caution lasted, seemed to come upon us -with a rush, though tempered with the sense of freedom from care -aforesaid, and I fancy our progress down the glacier snow was for a time -rather staggery. Though tired, we were by no means exhausted, and after -a short rest on a flat rock and a drink from a glacier runnel, found -ourselves sufficiently vigorous to make good use of the remaining -daylight to cross the intervening glaciers, moraines, and valley of -boulders, before commencing to skirt the tedious and, in the dark, -exasperating stony wastes of the Charmoz ridge. Sternly disregarding the -allurements of numerous stonemen, which here seem to grow wild, to the -confusion of those weak enough to trust them, we stumbled along amongst -the stones to the brow of the hill overlooking the hotel, where shouts -from friends greeted the appearance of our lantern, and, descending by -the footpath, we arrived among them at 10.30 P.M., more than fifty-four -hours after our departure on the 12th." - -[Illustration: ON A SNOW RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: MRS. AUBREY LE BLOND, 1903. By Royston Le Blond.] - -[Illustration: A HALT FOR LUNCH ABOVE THE SNOW LINE.] - -[Illustration: MRS. AUBREY LE BLOND. By Joseph Imboden. - -_To face_ p. 51.] - - - - -CHAPTER III - -SOME AVALANCHE ADVENTURES - - -We should never have got into such a position, but when definite orders -are not carried out the General must not be blamed. The adventure might -easily have cost all three of us our lives. - -This is how we came to be imperilling our necks on an incoherent -snow-ridge 13,000 feet above the sea. It was the end of September, and -my two guides and I were waiting at Zermatt to try the Dent Blanche, a -proceeding which, later on, was amply justified by success. Much fresh -snow had recently fallen, and the slopes of the mountains were running -down towards the valleys faster than the most active chamois could have -galloped up them. Idleness is an abomination to the keen climber, and -doubly so if he be an enthusiastic photographer, and the sun shone each -day from a cloudless sky. Something had to be done, but what could we -choose? All the safe second-class ascents up which one might wade -through fresh snow without risk, we had accomplished over and over -again. Something new to us was what we wanted, and what eventually we -found in the stately Hohberghorn. Now this peak is seldom ascended. It -is overtopped by two big neighbours, and until these have been done, no -one is likely to climb the less imposing peak. Furthermore, the -Hohberghorn is a grind, and though we got enough excitement and to spare -out of it, yet in our case the circumstances were peculiar. The view was -certain to be grand, and, _faute de mieux_, we decided to start for it. - -On this occasion, in addition to my guide of many years' standing, the -famous Joseph Imboden of St Nicholas, I had a second man, who had a -great local reputation in his native valley at the other end of -Switzerland (and deservedly so, as far as his actual climbing ability -was concerned), but who had never been on a rope with Imboden before. -This was the cause of the appalling risk we ran during our expedition. -We arrived in good time at the hut, and found another party, who -proposed going up the Dom, the highest mountain entirely in Switzerland -(14,900 feet) next day. Our way lay together for a couple of hours over -the great glacier, and we proceeded the following morning in magnificent -weather towards our respective peaks. - -It was heavy work ploughing our way through the soft new snow, and we -could not advance except very slowly. As a result, it was already -mid-day when we gained the ridge of the Hohberghorn, not far below the -summit. The sun streamed pitilessly down, the snow cracked and slipped -at every step. To understand what followed, our position must now be -made clear. Imboden, who led, was on the very crest of the ridge. Next -to him on the rope, at a distance of about 20 feet, was my place, also -on the ridge. At an equal distance behind me was the second guide. He -was a trifle below the ridge, on the side to our left. We stood still -for a moment, and then Imboden distinctly but very quietly remarked to -the other man, "Be on your guard. At any moment now we may expect an -avalanche." I never to this day can understand how he failed to grasp -what this meant. It should have been obvious that it was a warning to -look out, and at the first sign of approaching danger to step down on to -the other side of the ridge. Had not this been a perfectly simple thing -to do, we should not have continued the ascent, but the second guide -failed us hopelessly when the critical moment came. Imboden, to avoid a -small cornice or overhanging eave of snow to our right, now took a few -steps along and below the ridge to the left, while the man behind me -came in the tracks to the crest, and I followed the leader. From this -position the last man could in an instant have been down the slope to -his right, and have held us with the greatest ease. - -We advanced a yard or two further, and then the entire surface upon -which we stood commenced to move! A moment more and we were struggling -for our lives, dashing our axes through the rushing snow, and -endeavouring to arrest our wild career, which, unless checked at once, -would cause us to be precipitated down the entire face of the mountain, -to the glacier below. Then it was that the firm bed of snow beneath the -newer layer stood us in good stead. Our axes held, and, breathless, -bruised and startled, we found ourselves clinging to the slope, while -the avalanche, momentarily increasing in volume, thundered down towards -the snow-fields below, where at length, heaped high against the -mountain-side, it came to rest. - -We now took stock of the position. We were practically unhurt, but so -confused and rapid had been the slip that the rope was entangled round -us in a manner wonderful to behold. There was nothing to prevent us -reaching the summit, for every atom of fresh snow had been swept away -from the slope, so we continued our climb, and soon were able to rest on -the top. To this day, Imboden and I always look back to our adventure -on the Hohberghorn as the greatest peril either of us has ever faced. - -More than one instance has been recorded where, owing to the prompt -action of the last man on the rope, fatal accidents on snow-ridges have -been avoided. The two most famous occasions in Alpine annals[2] were -when Hans Grass saved his party on Piz Palue, and when Ulrich Almer -performed his marvellous feat on the Gabelhorn. It is true that in both -these cases the risk was due to the breaking away of a snow-cornice, but -the remedy was exactly the same as it ought to have been when our -avalanche was started. - -I have only to add that we found the other party at the hut, much -exhausted by their unsuccessful attempt on the Dom, and very anxious on -our account, as they both heard and saw the avalanche which had so -nearly ended our mountaineering career. - -The famous climber, Mr Tuckett, has very kindly allowed me to quote from -_Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers_, the following description of a narrow -escape from an avalanche while descending the Aletschhorn: - -"We had accomplished in safety a distance of scarcely more than 150 -yards when, as I was looking at the Jungfrau, my attention was -attracted by a sudden exclamation from Victor, who appeared to stagger -and all but lose his balance. At first, the idea of some sort of seizure -or an attack of giddiness presented itself, but, without stopping to -enquire, I at once turned round, drove my good 8-foot ash-pole as deeply -as possible through the surface layer of fresh snow into the firmer -stratum beneath, tightened the rope to give Victor support, and shouted -to Peter to do the same. All this was the work of an instant, and a -glance at once showed me what had happened. Victor was safe for the -moment, but a layer or _couche_ of snow, 10 inches to a foot in -thickness, had given way exactly beneath his feet, and first gently, and -then fleet as an arrow, went gliding down, with that unpleasant sound -somewhat resembling the escape of steam, which is so trying to the -nerves of the bravest man, when he knows its full and true significance. -At first a mass 80 to 100 yards in breadth and 10 or 15 in length alone -gave way, but the contagion spread, and ere another minute had elapsed -the slopes right and left of us for an extent of at least half a mile, -were in movement, and, like a frozen Niagara, went crashing down the -ice-precipices and _seracs_ that still lay between us and the Aletsch -glacier, 1800 to 2000 feet below. The spectacle was indescribably -sublime, and the suspense for a moment rather awful, as we were -clinging to an incline at least as steep as that on the Grindelwald side -of the Strahleck--to name a familiar example--and it was questionable -whether escape would be possible, if the layer of snow on the portion of -the slope we had just been traversing should give way before we could -retrace our steps. - -"Not a moment was to be lost; no word was spoken after the first -exclamation, and hastily uttered, 'Au col! et vite!' and then in dead -silence, with _batons_ held aloft like harpoons, ready to be plunged -into the lower and older layers of snow, we stole quietly but rapidly up -towards the now friendly-looking _corniche_, and in a few minutes stood -once more in safety on the ridge, with feelings of gratitude for our -great deliverance, which, though they did not find utterance in words, -were, I believe, none the less sincerely felt by all of us. 'Il n'a -manque que peu a un grand malheur,' quietly remarked Victor, who looked -exhausted, as well he might be after what he had gone through; but a -_goutte_ of cognac all round soon set us right again, and shouting to -Bennen, who was still in sight, though dwindled in size to a mere point, -we were soon beside him, running down the _neve_ of our old friend, the -Aren Glacier. The snow was now soft and the heat tremendous, and both -Bennen and Bohren showed signs of fatigue; but a rapid pace was still -maintained in spite of the frequent crevasses. Some were cleared in a -series of flying leaps, whilst into others which the snow concealed, one -and another would occasionally sink, amid shouts of laughter from his -companions, who, in their turn, underwent a similar fate. To the -carefully secured rope, which, with the alpenstock and ice axe, are the -mountaineer's best friends, we owed it that these sudden immersions were -a mere matter of joke; but even the sense of security which it confers -does not altogether prevent a 'creepy' sensation from being experienced, -as the legs dangle in vacancy, and the sharp metallic ring of the icy -fragments is heard as they clatter down into the dark blue depths -below." - -The higher and more snow-laden the mountain chain, the more risk is -there from avalanches. It seems practically certain that Mr Mummery met -his death in the Himalayas from an avalanche, and that Messrs Donkin and -Fox and their two Swiss guides perished in the Caucasus from a like -cause. Sir W. Martin Conway, in his book on the Himalayas, makes several -allusions to avalanches, and on at least one occasion, some members of -his party had a narrow escape. He relates the adventure as follows: - -[Illustration: A cutting through an immense avalanche which fell some -months previously.] - -[Illustration: The remains of a large avalanche.] - -[Illustration: An avalanche of stones.] - -[Illustration: A mountain chapel near Zermatt where special prayers are -offered for defence against avalanche. - -_To face_ p. 59.] - -"Zurbriggen and I had no more than set foot upon the grass, when we -beheld a huge avalanche-cloud descending over the whole width of the -ice-fall, utterly enveloping both it and a small rock-rib and couloir -beside it. Bruce and the Gurkhas were below the rib, and could only see -up the couloir. They thought the avalanche was a small one confined to -it, and so they turned back and ran towards the foot of the ice-fall. -This was no improvement in position, and there was nothing for them to -do then but to run straight away from it, and get as far out to the flat -glacier as they could. The fall started from the very top of the Lower -Burchi peak, and tumbled on to the plateau above the ice-fall; it flowed -over this, and came down the ice-fall itself. We saw the cloud before we -heard the noise, and then it only reached us as a distant rumble. We had -no means of guessing the amount of solid snow and ice that there might -be in the heart of the cloud. The rumble increased in loudness, and was -soon a thunder that swallowed up our puny shouts, so that Bruce could -not hear our warning. Had he heard he could easily have reached the -sheltered position we gained before the cloud came on him. Zurbriggen -and I cast ourselves upon our faces, but only the edge of the cloud and -an ordinary strong wind reached us. Our companions were entirely -enveloped in it. They afterwards described to us how they raced away -like wild men, jumping crevasses which they could not have cleared in -cold blood. When the snow just enveloped them, the wind raised by it -cast them headlong on the ice. This, however, was the worst that -happened. The snow peppered them all over, and soaked them to the skin, -but the solid part of the avalanche was happily arrested in the midst of -the ice-fall, and never came in sight. When the fog cleared they were -all so out of breath that for some minutes they could only stand and -regard one another in panting silence. They presently rejoined us, and -we halted for a time on the pleasant grass." - -In the olden days, before the great Alpine lines had tunnelled beneath -the mountains and made a journey from one side of the range to the other -in midwinter as safe and as comfortable as a run from London to -Brighton, passengers obliged to cross the Alps in winter or spring were -exposed to very real peril from avalanches. Messrs Newnes have -courteously allowed me to make a short extract from an article which -appeared in one of their publications, and in which is described the -adventures of two English ladies who were obliged to return home -suddenly from Innsbruck on account of the illness of a near relative. -Their shortest route was by _diligence_ to Constance, over the Arlberg -Pass, and although it was considered extremely dangerous at that time of -year--the beginning of May 1880--they resolved to make the attempt. Much -anxiety with regard to avalanches was felt in neighbouring villages, as -the sun had lately been very hot, and the snow had become rotten and -undermined. Owing to heavy falls during the previous winter, the -accumulation of snow was enormous, and thus the two travellers set out -under the worst possible auspices. The conductor of the _diligence_ -warned them of the danger, and told them on no account to open a window -or to make any movement which could shake the coach. He got in with them -and sat opposite, looking very worried and anxious. They reached the -critical part of their journey, and, to quote Mrs Brewer's words: - -"Suddenly a low, booming sound, like that of a cannon on a battlefield -or a tremendous peal of thunder, broke on our ears, swelling into a -deafening crash; and in a moment we were buried in a vast mass of snow. -One of the immense piles from the mountain above had crashed down upon -us, carrying everything with it. At the same moment we felt a violent -jerk of the coach, and heard a kind of sound which expressed terror; -but, happily, our vehicle did not turn over, as it seemed likely to do -for a minute or so. There we sat--for how long I know not--scarcely -able to breathe, the snow pressing heavily against the windows, and -utterly blocking out light and air, so that breathing was a painful -effort. And now came a curious sensation. It was an utter suspension of -thought, and of every mental and physical faculty. - -"True, in a sort of unconscious way I became aware that the guard was -sobbing out a prayer for his wife and children; but it had not the -slightest effect on me. - -"We might have been buried days and nights for all I knew, for I kept no -count of time. In reality, I believe it was but a couple of hours -between the fall of the avalanche and the first moment of hope, which -came in the form of men striking with pickaxes. The sound seemed to come -from a long distance--almost, as it were, from another world. - -"The guard, roused by the noise, said earnestly: 'Ach Gott! I thank -Thee.' And then, speaking to us, he said: 'Ladies, help is near!' - -"Gradually the sound of the digging and the voices of the men grew -nearer, till at length one window was open--the one overlooking the -valley; and the life-giving air stole softly in upon us. Even now, -however, we were told not to move; not that we had any inclination to do -so, for we were in a dazed, half-conscious condition. When at length we -used our eyes, it was to note that the valley did not seem so deep, and -that the villages with their church spires had disappeared; the meaning -of it was not far to seek. - -"We were both good German scholars, and knew several of the dialects, so -that we were able to learn a good deal of what had happened by listening -to the men's talk. The school inspector in his terror had lost all -self-control, and forgetful of the warnings given him, threw himself off -the seat and leaped into space, thereby endangering the safety of all. -He mercifully fell into one of the clumps of trees some distance down -the slope, and so escaped without very much damage to himself, except -shock to the system and bruises. The poor horses, however, fared -infinitely worse. The weight of the snow lifted the rings from the hooks -on the carriage, and at the same time carried the poor brutes down with -it into the valley--never again to do a day's work. - -"The difficulties still before us were very serious. We could neither go -backward nor forward, and there was danger of more avalanches falling. -The next posting village was still far ahead, and there was no chance of -our advancing a step until the brave body of men could cut a way through -or make a clearance, and even then time would be required to bring back -horses." - -The ladies were at last extricated from their still dangerous position, -and amid a scene of the greatest excitement, arrived at a little -Tyrolese village. The people could not do enough to welcome them, and -every kindness was shown to them. Thus ended a wonderfully narrow escape -for all who were concerned in the adventure. - -[Illustration: A mountain path.] - -[Illustration: A village completely buried beneath an avalanche.] - -[Illustration: Peasants of the mountains.] - -[Illustration: Terraces cut on the hill sides and planted with trees to -prevent the fall of avalanches. - -_To face_ p. 65.] - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE - - -One of the treasures of collectors of Alpine books is a small volume in -Italian by Ignazio Somis. The British Museum has not only a copy of the -original, but also a couple of translations, from one of which, -published in 1768, I take the following account. I have left the quaint -old spelling and punctuation just as they were; they accentuate the -vividness and evident truth of this "True and Particular Account of the -most Surprising preservation and happy deliverance of three women," who -were buried for a month under an avalanche. The occurrence was fully -investigated by Ignazio Somis, who visited the village of Bergemoletto, -and obtained his narrative from the lips of one of the survivors. - -"In the month of February and March of the year 1755, we had in Turin, a -great fall of rain, the sky having been almost constantly overcast from -the ninth of February till the twenty-fourth of March. During this -interval, it rained almost every day, but snowed only on the morning of -the twenty-first of February, when the liquor of Reaumur's thermometer -stood but one degree above the freezing point. Now, as it often snows in -the mountains, when it only rains in the plain; it cannot appear -surprising that during this interval, there fell vast quantities of snow -in the mountains that surround us, and in course, several valancas[3] -were formed. In fact, there happened so many in different places on the -side of Aosta, Lanzo, Susa, Savoy, and the county of Nice, that by the -end of March, no less than two hundred persons had the misfortune of -losing their lives by them. Of these overwhelmed by these valancas, -three persons, however, Mary Anne Roccia Bruno, Anne Roccia, and -Margaret Roccia, had reason to think themselves in other respects, -extremely happy, having been dug alive on the twenty-fifth of April, out -of a stable, under the ruins of which, they had been buried, the -nineteenth of March, about nine in the morning, by a valanca of snow, -forty-two feet higher than the roof, to the incredible surprise of all -those who saw them, and afterwards heard them relate how they lived all -this while, with death, as we may say, continually staring them in the -face. - -"The road from Demonte to the higher valley of Stura, runs amidst many -mountains, which, joining one another, and sometimes rising to a great -height, form a part of those Alps, by historians and geographers, called -maritime Alps, separating the valley of Stura and Piedmont, from -Dauphiny and the county of Nice. Towards the middle of the road leading -to the top of these mountains, and on the left of the river Stura, we -meet with a village called Bergemolo, passing through which village, and -still keeping the road through the said valley, we, at about a mile -distance, arrive at a little hamlet called Bergemoletto, containing -about one hundred and fifty souls. From this place there run two narrow -lanes, both to the right and left, one less steep and fatiguing than the -other, and in some measure along two valleys, to the mountains. The -summit of the mountain makes the horizon an angle much greater than 45 deg., -and so much greater in some places, as to be in a manner perpendicular, -so that it is a very difficult matter to climb it, even by a winding -path. Now it was from the summit of the aforesaid mountains that fell -the valancas of snow, which did so much mischief, and almost entirely -destroyed the hamlet of Bergemoletto. - -"The bad weather which prevailed in so many other places, prevailed -likewise in the Foresta of Bergemoletto. By this word Foresta, the -Alpineers understand the villages dispersed over the vallies covered -with small trees and bushes, and surrounded with high mountains; for it -began to snow early in March, and the fall increased so much on the 16, -17, 18 and 19, that many of the inhabitants began to apprehend, and not -without reason, that the weight of that which was already fallen, and -still continued to fall, might crush their houses, built with stones -peculiar to the country, cemented by nothing but mud, and a very small -portion of lime, and covered with thatch laid on a roof of shingles and -large thin stones, supported by thick beams. They, therefore, got upon -their roofs to lighten them of the snow. At a little distance from the -church, stood the house of Joseph Roccia, a man of about fifty, husband -of Mary Anne, born in Demonte, of the family of Bruno; who, with his son -James, a lad of fifteen, had, like his neighbours, got upon the roof of -his house on the 19th in the morning in order to lessen the weight on -it, and thereby prevent its destruction. In the meantime the clergyman -who lived in the neighbourhood, and was about leaving home, in order to -repair to the church, and gather his people together to hear mass; -perceiving a noise towards the top of the mountains, and turning his -trembling eyes towards the quarter from whence he thought it came, -discovered two valancas driving headlong towards the village. Wherefore -raising his voice he gave Joseph notice, instantly to come down from -the roof, to avoid the impending danger, and then immediately retreated -himself into his own house. - -"These two valancas met and united, so as to form but one valanca which -continued to descend towards the valley, where, on account of the -increase of its bulk, the diminution of its velocity and the insensible -declivity of the plane it stopped and arrested by the neighbouring -mountain, though it covered a large tract of land, did no damage either -to the houses or the inhabitants. Joseph Roccia, who had formerly -observed that the fall of one valanca was often attended with that of -others, immediately came off the roof at the priest's notice, and with -his son fled as hard as he could towards the church, without well -knowing, however, which way he went; as is usually the case with the -Alpineers, when they guess by the report in the air, that some valanca -is falling or seeing it fall with their own eyes. The poor man had -scarce advanced forty steps, when hearing his son fall just at his -heels, he turned about to assist him, and taking him up, saw the spot on -which his house, his stable, and those of some of his neighbours stood, -converted into a huge heap of snow, without the least sign of either -walls or roofs. Such was his agony at this sight, and at the thoughts -of having lost in an instant, his wife, his sister, his family, and all -the little he had saved, with many years increasing labour and economy, -that hale and hearty, as he was, he immediately, as if heaven and earth -were come together, lost his senses, swooned away, and tumbled upon the -snow. His son now helped him, and he came to himself little by little; -till at last, by leaning upon him, he found himself in a condition to -get on the valanca, and, in order to re-establish his health there, set -out for the house of his friend, Spirito Roccia, about one hundred feet -distant from the spot, where he fell. Mary Anne, his wife, who was -standing with her sister-in-law Anne, her daughter Margaret, and her son -Anthony, a little boy two years old, at the door of the stable, looking -at the people throwing the snow from off the houses, and waiting for the -ringing of the bell that was to call them to prayers, was about taking a -turn to the house, in order to light a fire, and air a shirt for her -husband, who could not but want that refreshment after his hard labour. -But before she could set out, she heard the priest cry out to them to -come down quickly, and raising her trembling eyes, saw the foresaid -valancas set off, and roll down the side of the mountain, and at the -same instant heard a horrible report from another quarter, which made -her retreat back quickly with her family, and shut the door of the -stable. Happy it was for her, that she had time to do so; this noise -being occasioned by another immense valanca, the whole cause of all the -misery and distress, she had to suffer for so long a time. And it was -this very valanca, over which Joseph, her husband was obliged to pass -after his fit, in his way to the house of Spirito Roccia. - -"Some minutes after the fall of the valanca another huge one broke off -driving along the valley and beat down the houses which it met in its -course. This valanca increased greatly, by the snow over which it -passed, in its headlong course, and soon reached with so much -impetuosity, the first fallen valanca, it carried away great part of it; -then returning back with this reinforcement, it demolished the houses, -stopping in the valley which it had already overwhelmed in its first -progress. So that the height of the snow, Paris measure, amounted to -more than seventy-seven feet; the length of it to more than four hundred -and twenty-seven and the breadth above ninety-four. Some people affirm -that the concussion of the air occasioned by this valanca, was so great, -that it was heard at Bergemolo, and even burst open some doors and -windows at that place. This I know that nothing escaped it in -Bergemoletto, but a few houses, the church, and the house of John -Arnaud. - -"Being therefore gathered together, in order to sum up their -misfortunes, the inhabitants first counted thirty houses overwhelmed; -and then every one calling over those he knew, twenty-two souls were -missing, of which number, was D. Giulio Caesare Emanuel, their parish -priest, who had lived among them forty years. The news of this terrible -disaster, soon spread itself over the neighbourhood, striking all those -who heard it, with grief and compassion. All the friends and relations -of the sufferers, and many others, flocked of their own accord, from -Bergemolo and Demonte; and many were dispatched by the magistrates of -these places, to try if they could give any relief to so many poor -creatures, who, perhaps, were already suffocated by the vast heap of -snow that lay upon them; so that by the day following, the number -assembled on this melancholy occasion amounted to three hundred. Joseph -Roccia, notwithstanding his great love for his wife and family, and his -desire to recover part of what he had lost, was in no condition to -assist them for five days, owing to the great fright and grief, -occasioned by so shocking an event, and the swoon which overtook him at -the first sight of it. In the meantime, the rest were trying, if, by -driving iron-rods through the hardened snow, they could discover any -roofs; but they tried in vain. The great solidity and compactness of the -valanca, the vast extent of it in length, breadth and heighth, together -with the snow, that still continued to fall in great quantities, eluded -all their efforts; so that after some days' labour, they thought proper -to desist from their trials, finding that it was throwing away their -time and trouble to no purpose. The husband of poor Mary Anne, no sooner -recovered his strength, than in company with his son, and Anthony and -Joseph Bruno, his brothers-in-law who had come to his assistance from -Demonte, where they lived, did all that lay in his power to discover the -spot, under which his house, and the stable belonging to it, were -situated. But neither himself, nor his relations, could make any -discovery capable of affording them the smallest ray of comfort; though -they worked hard for many days, now in one place, and now in another, -unable to give up the thoughts of knowing for certain, whether any of -their family was still alive, or if they had under the snow and the -ruins of the stable, found, at once, both death and a grave. But it was -all labour lost, so that, at length, he thought proper to return to the -house of Spirito Roccia, and there wait, till, the weather growing -milder, the melting of the snow should give him an opportunity of paying -the last duty to his family, and recovering what little of his substance -might have escaped this terrible calamity. - -"Towards the end of March, the weather, through the lengthening of the -days, and the setting in of the warm winds, which continued to blow till -about the twentieth of April, began to grow mild and warm; and, of -course, the great valanca to fall away by the melting of the snow and -ice that composed it; so that little by little, the valley began to -assume its pristine form. This change was very sensible, especially by -the eighteenth of April, so that the time seemed to be at hand for the -surviving inhabitants of Bergemoletto to resume their interrupted -labours, with some certainty of recovering a good part of what they had -lost on the unfortunately memorable morning of the nineteenth of March. -Accordingly, they dispersed themselves over the valanca, some trying in -one place, and some in another, now with long spades, and another time -with thick rods of iron, and other instruments proper to break the -indurated snow. One of the first houses they discovered by this means, -was that of Louisa Roccia, in which they found her dead body, and that -of one of her sons. Next day, in the house called the confreria, that -had two rooms on the ground floor, and one above them, they found the -body of D. Giulio Caesare Emanuel, with his beads in his hand. Joseph -Roccia, animated by these discoveries, set himself with new spirits -about discovering the situation of his house, and the stable belonging -to it; and with spades and iron crows, made several and deep holes in -the snow, throwing great quantities of earth into them; earth mixed -with water, being very powerful in destroying the strong cohesion of -snow and ice. On the twenty-fourth, having made himself an opening two -feet deep into the valanca, he began to find the snow softer and less -difficult to penetrate; wherefore, driving down a long stick, he had the -good fortune of touching the ground with it. - -"It was no small addition to Joseph's strength and spirit, to be thus -able to reach the bottom; so that he would have joyfully continued his -labour, and might perhaps on that very day, had it not been too far -advanced, have recovered some part of what he was looking for, and found -that which, assuredly, he by no means expected to meet with. When, -therefore, he desisted for that time, it was with much greater -reluctance than he had done any of the preceding days. The anxiety of -Joseph, during the following night, may well be compared to that of the -weather-beaten mariner, who finding himself, after a long voyage, at the -mouth of his desired port, is yet, by the coming on of night obliged to -remain on the inconstant waves till next morning. Wherefore, at the -first gleam of light, he, with his son, hastened back to the spot, where -the preceding day he had reached the ground with the stick, and began to -work upon it again; but he had not worked long, when lo, to his great -surprise, who should he see coming to his assistance but his two -brothers-in-law Joseph and Anthony Bruno. - -"Anthony, it seems, the night between the preceding Thursday and Friday, -being then in Delmonte, dreamed that there appeared to him, with a pale -and troubled countenance, his sister Mary Anne Roccia, who, with an -earnestness intermixed with grief and hope, called upon him for -assistance in the following words: - -"'Anthony, though you all look upon me as dead in the stable where the -valanca of snow overwhelmed me on the nineteenth of March, God has kept -me alive. Hasten therefore to my assistance, and to relieve me from my -present wretched condition; in you, my brother, have I placed all my -hopes, dont abandon me; help, help I beseech you.' Anthony's -imagination, was so affected by the thoughts of thus seeing his sister, -and hearing her utter these piteous words, that he immediately started -up, and calling out to his brother Joseph, he acquainted him with what -he had seen and heard. They both, therefore, as soon as it was day, set -out for Bergemoletto, where they arrived a little before eight, tired -and out of breath, for they seemed to have their sister continually -before their eyes, pressing them for help and assistance. Having -therefore taken a little rest and refreshment, they set out again for -the place, where Joseph Roccia, and many others, were hard at work in -looking for the wrecks of their houses. Joseph had left the spot, where, -the day before he thought he had reached the ground, and was trying to -reach it in other places. His brothers-in-law immediately fell to work -with him, and making many new holes in the snow, the interior parts of -which were not so very hard, with the same iron rods, with earth and -with long poles, they at last, about ten, discovered the so long sought -for house, but found no dead bodies in it. Knowing that the stable did -not lie one hundred feet from the house, they immediately directed their -search towards it, and proceeding in the same manner, about noon, they -got a long pole through a hole, from whence issued a hoarse and languid -voice, which seemed to say: 'help, my dear husband, help, my dear -brother, help.' The husband and brother thunderstruck, and at the same -time encouraged by these words, fell to their work with redoubled -ardour, in order to clear away the snow, and open a sufficient way for -themselves, to the place from whence the voice came, and which grew more -and more distinct as the work advanced. It was not long, therefore, -before they had made a pretty large opening, through which (none minding -the danger he exposed himself to) Anthony descended, as into a dark -pit, asking who it was, that could be alive in such a place. Mary Anne -knew him by his voice, and answered with a trembling and broken accent, -intermixed with tears of joy. 'Tis I, my dear brother, who am still -alive in company with my daughter and my sister-in-law, who are at my -elbow. God, in whom I have always trusted, still hoping that he would -inspire you with the thought of coming to our assistance, has been -graciously pleased to keep us alive.' God, who had preserved them to -this moment, and was willing they should live, inspired Anthony with -such strength and spirits, that, notwithstanding the surprise and -tenderness with which so joyful and at the same time so sad a sight must -have affected him, had presence of mind enough to acquaint his -fellow-labourers, all anxiously waiting for the report of his success, -that Mary Anne, Margaret, and Anne Roccia were still alive. Whereupon -Joseph Roccia, and Joseph Bruno, enlarging the passage as well as they -could, immediately followed him into the ruins; whilst the other -Alpineers, scattered over the valanca in quest of their lost substance, -and the dead bodies of their relations, on the son's calling out to -them, flocked round the mouth of the pit, to behold so extraordinary a -sight; not a little heightened by that of two live goats scampering out -of the opening. In the meantime, those who had descended into the hole, -were contriving how to take out of it the poor and more than half dead -prisoners, and convey them to some place, where they might recover -themselves. The first thing they did was to raise them up, and take them -out of the manger in which they had been so long stowed. They then -placed them one by one on their shoulders, and lifted them up to those -who stood round the mouth of the pit, who with very great difficulty -took hold of them by the arms, and drew them out of their dark -habitation. Mary Anne, on being exposed to the open air, and seeing the -light, was attacked by a very acute pain in the eyes, which greatly -weakened her sight, and was attended with so violent a fainting fit, -that she had almost like to have lost, in the first moment of her -deliverance, that life, which she had so long and with such difficulty -preserved. But this was a consequence that might be easily foreseen. She -had been thirty-seven days, secluded, in a manner entirely, from the -open air; nor had the least ray of light, in all that time, penetrated -her pupils. - -"Her son found means to bring her to herself with a little melted snow, -there being nothing else at hand fit for the purpose, and the accident -that happened her was improved into a rule for treating the companions -of her misfortune. They, therefore, covered all their faces, and wrapped -them up so well, as to leave them but just room to breathe, and in this -condition took them to the house of John Arnaud, where Mary Anne was -entirely recovered from her fit, by a little generous wine. They then -directly placed them in some little beds put up in the stable, which was -moderately warm, and almost entirely without light, and prepared for -them a mess of rye meal gruel, mixed with a little butter; but they -could swallow but very little of it." - - - - -CHAPTER V - -A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE--(_continued_) - - -"It is now proper I should say something of the most marvellous -circumstance, attending this very singular and surprising accident, I -mean their manner of supporting life, during so long and close a -confinement. I shall relate what I have heard of it from their own -mouths, being the same, in substance, with what Count Nicholas de -Brandizzo, intendant of the city and province of Cuneo, heard from them -on the sixteenth of May, when, by order of our most benevolent -sovereign, he repaired to Bergemoletto, effectually to relieve these -poor women, and the rest of the inhabitants, who had suffered by the -valanca. - -"To begin then; on the morning of the twenty-ninth of March, our three -poor women, expecting every minute to hear the bell toll for prayers, -had in the mean time, taken shelter from the rigour of the weather, in a -stable built with stones, such as are usually found in these quarters, -with a roof composed of large thin stones, not unlike slate, laid on a -beam ten inches square, and covered with a small quantity of straw, and -with a pitch sufficient to carry off the rain, hail or snow, that might -fall upon it. In the same stable were six goats, (four of which I heard -nothing of) an ass and some hens. Adjoining to this stable, was a little -room, in which they had fixed a bed, and used to lay up some provisions, -in order to sleep in it in bad weather without being obliged to go for -anything to the dwelling-house, which lay about one hundred feet from -it. I have already taken notice, that Mary Anne was looking from the -door of the stable at her husband and son, who were clearing the roof of -its snow, when warned by a horrible noise, the signal by which the -Alpineer knows the tumbling of the valancas, she immediately took -herself in with her sister-in-law, her daughter, and her little boy of -two years old, and shut the door, telling them the reason for doing it -in such a hurry. Soon after they heard a great part of the roof give -way, and some stones fall on the ground, and found themselves involved -on all sides with a pitchy darkness; all which they attributed, and with -good reason, to the fall of some valanca. Upon this, they for some time -thought proper to keep a profound silence, to try if they could hear any -noise, and by that means have the comfort of knowing that help was at -hand, but they could hear nothing. They therefore set themselves to -grope about the stable, but without being able to meet with anything -but solid snow. Anne light upon the door, and opened it, hoping she had -found out the way to escape the imminent danger they thought they were -in of the buildings tumbling about their ears; but she could not -distinguish the least ray of light, nor feel any thing but a hard and -impenetrable wall of snow, with which she acquainted her fellow -prisoners. They, therefore, immediately began to bawl out with all their -might; 'help, help, we are still alive'; repeating it several times; but -not hearing any answer, Anne put the door to again. They continued to -grope about the stable, and Mary Anne having light upon the manger, it -occurred to her, that, as it was full of hay, they might take up their -quarters there, and enjoy some repose, till it should please the -Almighty to send them assistance. The manger was about twenty inches -broad, and lay along a wall, which, by being on one side supported by an -arch, was enabled to withstand the shock, and upheld the chief beam of -the roof, in such a manner, as to prevent the poor women from being -crushed to pieces by the ruins. Mary Anne placed herself in the manger, -putting her son by her, and then advised her daughter and her -sister-in-law to do so too. Upon this, the ass which was tied to the -manger, frightened by the noise, began to bray and prance at a great -rate; so that, fearing lest he should bring the parapet of the manger, -or even the wall itself about their ears; they immediately untied the -halter, and turned him adrift. In going from the manger, he stumbled -upon a kettle that happened to lie in the middle of the stable, which -put Mary Anne upon picking it up, and laying it by her, as it might -serve to melt the snow in for their drink, in case they should happen to -be confined long enough to want that resource. Anne, approving this -thought, got down, and groping on the floor till she had found it, came -back to the manger. - -"In this situation the good women continued many hours, every moment -expecting to be relieved from it; but, at last, being too well -convinced, that they had no immediate relief to expect, they began to -consider how they might support life, and what provisions they had with -them for that purpose. Anne recollected that the day before she had put -some chestnuts into her pocket, but, on counting them, found they -amounted only to fifteen. Their chief hopes, therefore, and with great -reason now rested on thirty or forty cakes, which two days before had -been laid up in the adjoining room. The reader may well imagine, though -Anne had never told me a word of it, with what speed and alertness she -must, on recollecting these cakes, have got out of the manger, to see -and find out the door of the room where they lay; but it was to no -purpose; she roved and roved about the stable to find out what she -wanted, so that she was obliged to come as she went, and take up her -seat again amongst her fellow-sufferers, who still comforted themselves -with the hopes of being speedily delivered from that dark and narrow -prison. In the mean while, finding their appetite return, they had -recourse to their chestnuts. The rest of the chestnuts they reserved for -a future occasion. They then addressed themselves to God, humbly -beseeching him to take compassion on them, and vouchsafe in his great -mercy to rescue them from their dark grave, and from the great miseries -they must unavoidably suffer, in case it did not please him to send them -immediate assistance. They spent many hours in ejaculations of this -kind, and then thinking it must be night, they endeavoured to compose -themselves. Margaret and the little boy, whose tender years prevented -their having any idea of what they had to suffer in their wretched -situation, or any thought of death, and of what they must suffer, before -they could be relieved, fell asleep. But it was otherwise with Mary Anne -and Anne, who could not get the least rest, and spent the whole night in -prayer, or in speaking of their wretched condition, and comforting one -another with the hopes of being speedily delivered from it. As it seemed -to them, after many hours, that it was day again, they endeavoured to -keep up their spirits with the thoughts, that Joseph with the rest of -their friends and relations not getting any intelligence of their -situation, would not fail of doing all that lay in their power to come -at them. The sensation of hunger was earliest felt by the two youngest; -and the little boy crying out for something to eat, and there being -nothing for him but the chestnuts, Anne gave him three. - -"I said, that these women seemed to have some notion of the approach of -day and night, but I should never have dreamed in what manner this idea -could be excited in them, shut up as they were in a body of ice, -impervious to the least ray of light, had not they themselves related it -to me. The hens shut up in the same prison, were it seems the clocks, -which by their clucking all together, made them think the first day that -it was night, and then again after some interval that it was day again. -This is all the notion they had of day and night for two weeks together; -after which, not hearing the hens make any more noise, they no longer -knew when it was day or night. - -"This day the poor women and the boy supported themselves with their -chestnuts; and at the return of the usual signal of night, the boy and -Margaret went to sleep; while the mother and aunt spent it in -conversation and prayer. On the next day the ass by his braying, gave -now and then, for the last time, some signs of life. On the other hand, -the poor prisoners had something to comfort themselves with; for they -discovered two goats making up to the manger. This, therefore, was a -joyful event, and they gave the goats some of the hay they sat upon in -the manger, shrunk up with their knees to their noses. It then came into -Anne's head to try if she could not get some milk from the milch goat; -and recollecting that they used to keep a porringer under the manger for -that purpose, she immediately got down to look for it, and happily found -it. The goat suffered herself to be milked, and yielded almost enough to -fill the cup which contained above a pint. On this they lived the third -day. The night following the boy and the girl slept as usual, while -neither of the two others closed their eyes. Who can imagine how long -the time must have appeared to them, and how impatient they must have -been to see an end to their sufferings? This, after offering their -prayers to the Almighty, was the constant subject of their conversation. -'O, my husband,' Mary Anne used to cry out, 'if you two are not buried -under some of the valancas and dead; why do not you make haste to give -me, your sister, and children, that assistance which we so much stand in -need of? We are thank God, still alive, but cannot hold out much longer, -so it will soon be too late to think of us.' 'Ah, my dear brother,' -added Anne, 'in you next to God, have we placed all our trust. We are -alive, indeed, and it depends upon you to preserve our lives, by digging -us out of the snow and the ruins, in which we lie buried.' 'But let us -still hope,' both of them added, 'that as God has been pleased to spare -our lives, and provide us with the means of prolonging it, he will still -in his great mercy put it into the hearts of our friends and relations -to use all their endeavours to save us.' To this discourse succeeded new -prayers, after which they composed themselves as well as they could, in -order to get, if possible, a little sleep. - -"The hens having given the usual signal of the return of day, they began -again to think on the means of spinning out their lives. Mary Anne -bethought herself anew of the cakes put up in the adjacent room; and -upon which, could they but get at them, they might subsist a great while -without any other nourishment. On the first day of their confinement, -they had found in the manger a pitch fork, which they knew used to be -employed in cleaning out the stable, and drawing down hay through a -large hole in the hay-loft, which lay over the vault. Anne observed, -that such an instrument might be of service in breaking the snow, and -getting at the cakes, could they but recover the door leading into the -little room. She, therefore, immediately got out of the manger, from -which she had not stirred since the first day, and groping about, -sometimes meeting with nothing but snow, sometimes with the wall, and -sometimes loose stones, she, at length, light upon a door, which she -took for the stable door, and endeavoured to open it as she had done the -first day, but without success; an evident sign that the superincumbent -snow had acquired a greater degree of density, and pressed more forcibly -against it. She, therefore, made step by step, the best of her way back -to the manger, all the time conversing with her fellow-sufferers; and -taking the fork with her, continued to rove and grope about, till at -last she light upon a smooth and broad piece of wood, which to the touch -had so much the appearance of the little door, as to make her hope she -had at last found what she had been so earnestly looking for. She then -endeavoured to open it with her hand, but finding it impossible, told -the rest that she had a mind to employ the pitch fork; but Mary Anne -dissuaded her from doing so. 'Let us,' said she, 'leave the cakes where -they are a little longer, and not endanger our lives any further, by -endeavouring to preserve them. Who knows but with the fork, you might -make such destruction, as to bring down upon our heads, that part of the -stable that still continues together, and which, in its fall, could not -fail of crushing us to pieces. No, God keep us from that misfortune. -Lay down your fork Anne, and come back to us, submitting yourself to the -holy will of the Almighty, and patiently accept at his hands whatever he -may please to send us.' Anne, moved by such sound and affecting -arguments and reasons, immediately let the fork fall out of her hands, -and returned to the manger. 'Let us,' continued Mary Anne, 'let us make -as much as we can of our nursing goats, and endeavour to keep them alive -by supplying them with hay. Here is a good deal in the manger, and it -occurs to me, that when that is gone, we may supply them from another -quarter, for by putting up my hand, trying what was above me, I have -discovered that there is hay in the loft, and that the hole to it is -open, and just over our heads; so that we have nothing to do, but to -pull it down for the goats, whose milk we may subsist upon, till it -shall please God to dispose otherwise of us." - -This reasoning was not only sound in itself, but supported by facts; for -ever since their confinement, they had heard stones fall from time to -time upon the ground, and these stones could be no others than those of -the building, which the shock of the valanca had first loosened, and -which the weight it every day acquired by encreasing in density, -afterwards enabled it to displace. Wherefore, had she happened to -disturb with the pitch-fork, as there was the greatest reason to fear -she might, any of those parts, which, united together, served to keep -up the beam that supported the great body of snow, under which they lay -buried, the fall of the stable, and their own destruction, must have -infallibly been the consequence of it. - -"This day the sensation of hunger was more and more lively and -troublesome, without their having anything to allay it with but snow, -and the milk yielded them by one of the goats their fellow prisoners. I -say one of the goats for as yet they had milked but one of them, -thinking it would be useless, or rather hurtful, even if they could, to -take any milk from that in kid. Anne had recourse to the other, and in -the whole day, got from her about two pints of milk, on which, with the -addition of a little snow, they subsisted." - -The little boy, unable to struggle against the terrible conditions, grew -rapidly weaker and weaker, and the time had now come when he passed -painlessly away. - -"The death of this poor child proved the severest trial that the three -women, the two eldest especially, had to suffer during their long -confinement; and from this unfortunate day, the fear of death, which -they considered as at no great distance, began to haunt them more and -more. The little nourishment, which the goat yielded the poor women, had -made them suffer greatly on the preceding days; they were, besides, -benumbed, or rather frozen with the intense cold. Add to this the -necessary, but inconvenient and tormenting posture of their feet, knees, -and every other part of their bodies; the snow, which melting over their -heads, perpetually trickled down their backs, so that their clothes, and -their whole bodies were perfectly drenched with it: they were often on -the point of swooning away, and obliged to keep themselves from -fainting, by handling the snow, and putting some of it into their -mouths; the thirst with which their mouths were constantly burnt up; the -thoughts, that in all this time no one had been at the pains to look for -and relieve them; the consideration, that all they had hitherto -suffered, was nothing in comparison of what they had still to suffer -before they could recover their liberty, or sink under the weight of all -the evils which encompassed them; all these, certainly, were -circumstances sufficient to render them to the last degree, wretched and -miserable. Add to this, that the milk of their fond and loving nurse, -fell away little by little, till at length, instead of about two pints, -which she, in the beginning used to yield, they could not now get so -much as a pint from her. The hay that lay in the manger was all out, and -it was but little the poor women could draw out of the hole which lay -above them; so that as the goats had but little fodder, little -sustenance could be expected from that which they thought proper to -milk. These animals were become so tame and familiar, in consequence of -the fondness shewn them, that they always came on the first call to the -person that was to milk them, affectionately licking her face and hands. -Anne, encouraged by this tameness of theirs, bethought herself of -accustoming them to leap upon the manger, and from thence upon her -shoulders, so as to reach the hole of the hay-loft, and feed themselves; -so apt is hard necessity to inspire strength and ingenuity. She began by -the goat that yielded them milk, helping her up into the manger, and -then putting her upon her shoulders. This had the desired effect, the -animal being thereby enabled to reach much further with its head, than -they could with their hands. They did then the same by the other goat, -from whom, as soon as she should drop her kid, they expected new relief. -She, too, in the same manner, found means to get at the hay, which -afforded the poor women some relief in the midst of their pressing -necessity. After this day, the goats required no further assistance, -they so soon learned to leap of themselves on the manger, and from -thence on the women's shoulders. But we must not conclude that hunger -was the chief of the poor women's sufferings; far from it. After the -first days, during which it proved a sore torment to them, they through -necessity, grew so accustomed to very little and very light nourishment, -that they no longer felt any sensation of that kind, but lived -contentedly on the small quantity of milk they could get from their -goat, mixed with a little snow. Their breath was what gave them most -uneasiness; for it began to be very difficult on the fifth or sixth day, -every inspiration being attended with the sensation of a very heavy and -almost insupportable load upon them. - -"They now had lost all means of guessing at the returns of night and -day, and their only employment was to recommend themselves fervently to -God, beseeching him to take compassion of them, and at length, put an -end to their miseries, which increased from day to day. At last, their -nurse growing dry, they found themselves without any milk, and obliged -to live upon snow alone for two or three days, Mary Anne not approving -an expedient proposed by her sister. This was to endeavour to find the -carcasses of the hens; for as they had not heard them for some days -past, they had sufficient reason to think they were dead; and then eat -them, as the only thing with which they could prolong life. But Mary -Anne, rightly judging that it would be almost impossible to strip them -clean of their feathers, and that besides, the flesh might be so far -putrified, as to do them more harm than good, thought proper to dissuade -her sister from having recourse to this expedient. But the unspeakable -providence of God, whose will it was that they should live, provided -them with new means of subsistence, when least they expected it, by the -kidding of the other goat. By this event, they judged themselves to be -about the middle of April; wherefore, after offering God their most -humble thanks, for having preserved them so long, in the midst of so -many, and such great difficulties they again beseeched him to assist -them effectually, till they could find an opportunity of escaping their -doleful prison, and see an end to their great sufferings. Their hopes of -this their humble supplication being heard, were raised on the -appearance of this new supply, and on their reflecting that the snow -begins to thaw in April, in consequence of which that about the stable -would soon dissolve enough to let some ray of light break in upon them. -Mary Anne told me, that, though she was thoroughly sensible of the -badness of her condition, in which it was impossible for her to hold out -much longer, and saw it every day grow worse and worse; she never, -however, despaired of her living to be delivered. For my part, I cannot -sufficiently admire the courage and intrepidity of Anne, who told me, -that in all this time she never let a tear escape her but once. This was -on its occurring to her, that, as they must at length perish for want, -it might fall to her lot to die last. For the thought of finding herself -amidst the dead bodies of her sister and her niece, herself too in a -dying condition, terrified and afflicted her to such a degree, that she -could no longer command her tears, but wept bitterly. - -"I observed, that the goat had kidded. This event afforded the poor -women a new supply of milk, Anne for a while getting two porringers at a -time from her, with which they recruited themselves a little. But as the -goats began to fall short of hay, the milk of the only one that gave -them any, began to lessen in proportion, so that at length they saw -themselves reduced to a single, and even half a porringer. It was, -therefore, happy for them, that the time drew nigh, in which God had -purposed to rescue them from their horrible prison and confinement, and -put an end to their sufferings. One time they thought they could hear a -noise of some continuance at no great distance from them. This was -probably the 20th, when the parish priest's body was found. And, upon -it, they all together raised their weak and hoarse voices, crying out, -'Help, help!' but the noise ceased, and they this time neither saw nor -heard anything else that might serve as a token of their deliverance -being at hand. However, this noise alone was sufficient to make them -address God with greater fervour than ever, beseeching him to have -compassion on them, and to confirm them still more and more in their -warm hopes, that the end of their long misery was not far off. In fact, -they again heard another noise, and that nearer them, as though -something had fallen to the ground. On this they again raised their -voices, and again cried out, 'Help, help': but no one answered, and soon -after the noise itself entirely ceased. Their opinion concerning this -noise, and in this they certainly were not mistaken, was that it came -from the people, who were at work to find them, and who left off at the -approach of night, and went home with a design to return to their labour -the next morning. After the noise of the body fallen to the ground in -their neighbourhood, they seemed for the first time to perceive some -glimpse of light. The appearance of it scared Anne and Margaret to the -last degree, as they took it for a sure fore-runner of death, and -thought it was occasioned by the dead bodies; for it is a common opinion -with the peasants that those wandering wild-fires, which one frequently -sees in the open country, are a sure presage of death to the persons -constantly attended by them, which ever way they turn themselves; and -they accordingly call them death fires. But Mary Anne, was very far -from giving in to so silly a notion. On the contrary the light inspired -her with new courage, and she did all that lay in her power to dissipate -the fears of her sister and daughter, revive their hopes in God, and -persuade them that their deliverance and the end of all their sufferings -was at hand; insisting that this light could be no other than the light -of heaven, which had, at last, reached the stable, in consequence of the -valanca's melting, and still more in consequence of the constant boring -and digging into it by their relations, in order to come at their dead -bodies. Mary Anne guessed right for it was the next day that Anthony -descended into the ruins of the stable, and to his unspeakable surprise -found the poor women alive, blessing and exalting the most high, and -restored them from darkness to light, from danger to security, from -death to life, by drawing them out of the manger, and removing them to -the house of Joseph Arnaud, where they continued to the end of July. - -"Thirty-seven entire days did these poor women live in the most horrible -sufferings occasioned no less by filth and the disagreeable posture they -were confined to, than by cold and hunger; but the Lord was with them. -He kept them alive, and they are still living, in a new cottage built -the same year in the Foresta of Bergemoletto, at no great distance from -their former habitation." - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -AN EXCITING CAUCASIAN ASCENT - - -The following account of the ascent of Gestola, in the Central Caucasus, -is taken from _The Alpine Journal_, and the author, Mr C. T. Dent, has -most kindly revised it for this work, and has added a note as follows: - -"At the time (1886) when this expedition was made, the topography of the -district was very imperfectly understood. The mountain climbed was -originally described as Tetnuld Tau--Tau = Mountain. Since the -publication of the original paper a new survey of the whole district has -been carried out by the Russian Government and the nomenclature much -altered. The peak of Tetnuld is really to the south of Gestola. The -nomenclature has in the following extract been altered so as to -correspond with that at present in use and officially sanctioned." - -The party consisted of Mr Dent, the late Mr W. F. Donkin, and two Swiss -guides. They had safely accomplished the first part of their ascent of a -hitherto unclimbed peak, and were on the ridge and face to face with -the problem of how to reach the highest point. After describing the -glorious scenery which lay around them, Mr Dent writes: - -"Woven in between all these peaks lay a wilderness of crevassed slopes, -jagged rock ridges, and stretching glaciers, bewildering in their beauty -and complexity. To see the wondrous sights that were crowded into those -few minutes while we remained on the ridge, we would willingly have gone -five times further and fared ten times worse. In high spirits we turned -to the left (S.S.E.), and began our journey along the ridge which was to -lead us to Gestola, ever keeping an eye on the snowy form of Tetnuld, -and marvelling whether it would overtop our peak or not. For a few -steps, and for a few only, all went well. The snow was in good order on -the ridge, but we had to leave this almost immediately and make S.W. in -order to skirt the heights which still intervened between us and our -peak. The ice began to change its character. Two or three steps were cut -with a few strokes of the axe, and then all went well again for a time. -Then more steps, and a more ringing sound as the axe fell. We seemed, -too, however we might press on, to make no impression on this first -slope. Our doubt returned; the leader paused, drew up the rope, and bit -at a fragment of ice as he gazed anxiously upwards over the face. No! we -were on the right track, and must stick to it if we would succeed. For -an hour and a quarter we kept at it in silence, save for the constant -ringing blows of the axe. Our courage gradually oozed out, for when we -had worked back to the ridge again, we seemed to have made no progress -at all. The top of the mountain far above was already swathed in cloud, -and a distant storm on the south side was only too obvious. Another -little peak was won before we looked about again, but the summit seemed -no nearer. The exertion had begun to tell and the pace became slower. -Some one remarked that he felt hungry, and we all thereupon realised our -empty state, so we fortified ourselves for further efforts on a dainty -repast of steinbock, black bread a week old, and water--invigorating -victuals and exhilarating drink, rather appropriate to the treadmill -kind of exercise demanded. It is under conditions such as these that -strange diet tells on the climber; but even more trying and more -weakening than the poor quality of the food was the want of sleep from -which we had suffered for a good many nights. In the language of -science, our vital force and nervous energy were becoming rather rapidly -exhausted, or, to put it more colloquially and briefly, we were awfully -done. Three hours more at least was the estimate, and meanwhile the -weather was growing worse and worse. Reflecting that all points fall to -him who knows how to wait and stick to it, we pressed on harder to -escape from the dispiriting thoughts that suggested themselves, and -almost of a sudden recognised that the last of the deceptive little tops -had been left behind us, and that we were fighting our way up the final -peak. Better still, Tetnuld, which for so long had seemed to tower above -us, was fast sinking in importance, and there really seemed now, as we -measured the peak with the clinometer between the intervals of -step-cutting, to be little difference between the two points. The air -was so warm and oppressive that we were able to dispense with gloves. -One of the guides suffered from intense headache, but the rest of us, I -fancy, felt only in much the same condition as a man does at the finish -of a hard-run mile race. The clouds parted above us for a while, -mysteriously, as it seemed, for there was no wind to move them; but we -could only see the slope stretching upwards, and still upwards. Yet we -could not be far off now. Again we halted for a few seconds, and as we -glanced above, we mentally took stock of our strength, for there was no -question the pleasure had been laborious. Some one moved, and we were -all ready on the instant. To it once more, and to the very last victory -was doubtful. True, the summit had seemed close enough when the last -break in the swirling clouds had enabled us to catch a glimpse of what -still towered above; but our experience of Swiss snow mountains was -long enough to make us sceptical as to apparent tops, and possibly the -Caucasian giants were as prone to deceive as the human pigmies that -crawled and burrowed at their bases. - -"Still anxious, still questioning success, we stepped on, and the pace -increased as the doubt persisted. It is often said to be impossible, by -those who don't try, to explain why the second ascent of a mountain -always appears so much easier than the first; some explanation may be -found in the fact that on a virgin peak the uncertainty is really -increasing during the whole time, and the climax comes in the last few -seconds. Every step upwards make success more probable, and at the same -time, would make failure more disappointing. In fact, the only periods -when we are morally certain of success on a new expedition are before -the start and when victory is actually won. Still, we could hardly -believe that any insuperable obstacle would now turn us back; yet all -was new and uncertain, and the conditions of weather intensified the -anxiety. The heavy stillness of the air seemed unnatural, and made the -mind work quicker. The sensibility became so acute that if we ceased -working and moving for a moment the silence around was unendurable, and -seemed to seize hold of us. A distant roll of thunder came almost as a -relief. A step or two had to be cut, and the delay appeared -interminable. Suddenly, a glimpse of a dark patch of rocks appeared -above looming through the mist. The slope of the ridge became more -gentle for a few yards. Our attention was all fixed above, and we -ascended some distance without noticing the change. Another short rise, -and we were walking quickly along the ridge. We stopped suddenly; the -rocks we had seen so recently, had sunk below us on our left, while in -front the _arete_ could be followed with the eye, sloping away gradually -for a few yards, and then plunging sharply down to a great depth. It was -all over; through fair weather and through foul we had succeeded; and -there was yet another peak to the credit of the Alpine Club. - -[Illustration: A TYPICAL CAUCASIAN LANDSCAPE. - -_To face_ p. 105. - -By Signor Vittorio Sella.] - -"It was not a time for words. Burgener turned to us and touched the snow -with his hand, and we sat down in silence. Almost on the instant as we -took our places a great burst of thunder rolled and echoed around--a -grim salvo of Nature's artillery. The sudden sense of rest heightened -the effect of the oppressive stillness that followed. Never have I felt -the sense of isolation so complete. Gazing in front into the thin mists, -the very presence of my companions seemed an unreality. The veil of -wreathing vapour screened the huge panorama of the ice-world from our -sight. The black thunderclouds drifting sullenly shut out the world -below. No man knew where we were; we had reached our furthest point -in a strange land. We were alone with Nature, far from home, and far -from all that we were familiar with. Strange emotions thrilled the frame -and quickened the pulse. Weird thoughts crowded through the mind--it was -not a time for words. Believe me, under such conditions a man will see -further across the threshold of the unknown than all the book-reading or -psychological speculation in the world will ever reveal to him. - -"Coming back to considerations more prosaic and practical, we found that -it was 1.15 P.M. We realised, too, that the ascent had been very -laborious and exhausting, while there was no doubt that evil times were -in store for us. There were no rocks at hand to build a cairn, but we -reflected that the snow was soft, and that our footsteps would easily be -seen on the morrow. The aneroid marked the height we had attained as -16,550 feet.[4] A momentary break in the mist gave us a view of Dych -Tau, and we had just time to get a compass observation. After a stay of -fifteen minutes we rose and girded ourselves for the descent. I think we -all felt that the chief difficulty was yet to come, but we had little -idea of what was actually to follow. Directly after we had left the -summit a few puffs of wind began to play around and some light snow -fell. Still, it was not very cold, and if the storm would only keep its -distance all might be well. Down the first slope we made our way rapidly -enough, and could have gone faster had we not deemed it wise to husband -our strength as much as possible. In an hour and twenty minutes we -reached the place where we had left the provisions and the camera. The -feast was spread, but did not find favour. Never did food look so -revolting. The bread seemed to have turned absolutely black, while the -steinbock meat looked unfit to keep company with garbage in a gutter; so -we packed it up again at once, more from a desire to hide it from our -eyes than from any idea that it might look more appetising later on. -Andenmatten's headache had become much worse, and he could scarcely at -starting stand steady in his steps. Possibly his suffering was due to an -hour or two of intensely hot sun, which had struck straight down on us -during the ascent. I could not at the moment awaken much professional -interest in his case, but the symptoms, so far as I could judge, were -more like those experienced by people in diving-bells--were pressure -effects in short--for the pain was chiefly in the skull cavities. I may -not here enter into technical details, and can only remark now that -though Andenmatten suffered the most it by no means followed on that -account that his head was emptier than anybody else's. In due course we -came to the ice-slope up and across which we had cut our way so -laboriously in the morning; here, at least, we thought we should make -good progress with little trouble; but the sun had struck full on this -part of the mountain, and all the steps were flattened out and useless. -Every single step ought to have been worked at with as much labour as in -the morning, but it was impossible to do more than just scratch out a -slight foothold, as we made our way round again to the ridge. Below, on -the west side, the slope plunged down into the Ewigkeit, and our very -best attention had to be given in order to avoid doing the same. It was -one of the worst snow faces I ever found myself on, perhaps, under the -conditions, the worst. The direction in which we were travelling and the -angle of the slope made the rope utterly useless. Close attention is -very exhausting: much more exertion is required to walk ten steps, -bestowing the utmost possible care on each movement, than to walk a -hundred up or down a much steeper incline when the angle demands a more -accustomed balance. Not for an instant might we relax our vigilance -till, at 5.30 P.M., we reached once more the ridge close to the place -where we had forced our way through the cornice in the morning. - -"We had little time to spare, and hurrying up to the point, looked -anxiously down the snow wall. A glance was sufficient to show that the -whole aspect of the snow had entirely altered since the morning. -Burgener's expression changed suddenly, and a startled exclamation, -which I trust was allowed to pass unrecorded, escaped from him. -Andenmatten brought up some stones and rolled them down over the edge; -each missile carried down a broad hissing band of the encrusting snow -which had given us foot-hold in the morning, and swept the ice-slope -beneath as black and bare as a frozen pond; here and there near rocks -the stones stopped and sank deeply and gently into the soft, treacherous -compound. The light had begun to fail, and snow was falling more heavily -as we pressed on to try for some other line of descent. A hundred yards -further along the ridge we looked over again; the condition of the snow -was almost the same, but the wall was steeper, and looked at its very -worst as seen through the mist. Some one now suggested that we might -work to the north-west end of the ridge and make our way down to the -pass by the ice-fall. We tramped on as hard as possible, only to find at -the end of our journey that the whole mass seemed abruptly cut away far -above the Adine Col, and no line of descent whatever was visible. We -doubled back on our tracks till we came within a few yards of the summit -of a small peak on the ridge, the height of which was probably not less -than 15,000 feet. Already the cold was numbing and our wet clothes began -to stiffen; again we peered over the wall, but the rocks were glazed, -snow-covered, and impossible. The leader stopped, looked right and left -along the ridge, and said, 'I don't know what to do!' For the moment we -seemed hopelessly entrapped; the only conceivable place of shelter for -the night was a patch of rocks close to the summit of the peak near at -hand, and for these we made. It was an utter waste of time. Apart from -sleeping, we could not have remained there an hour, for we met the full -force of the wind, which by this time had risen considerably, and was -whirling the driving snow into every crack and cranny. What might have -begun as a temporary rest would infallibly have ended in a permanent -occupation. Indeed, the cold would have been far too intense that night -for us to have lived on any part of the bleak ridge. The situation was -becoming desperate. 'We must get down off the ridge and out of the -wind.' 'Ay,' said Burgener, 'we must, I know; but where?' The -circumstances did not call for reasonable answers, and so we said, -'Anywhere! To stay up here now means that we shall never get down at -all.' Burgener looked up quickly as if to say no, but hesitated, and -then muttered, 'That is true. Then what will you do? There is no way -down anywhere along the wall with the snow as it is now. There are great -ice-slopes a little way down.' As he spoke he leant over and looked -along the wall for confirmation of his opinions. A little way off a rib -of rock, blacker than the rest, showed through the mist. We both saw it -at the same time; Burgener hesitated, looked at it again, and then -facing round glanced at the prospect above. The wind was stronger and -colder and the snow was driving more heavily. There was no room for -doubt. We must put it to the touch and take the risk. We turned again, -and in a few minutes had squeezed ourselves through the cornice, and -were fairly launched on the descent. - -"We were now at a much higher level on the ridge than at the point we -had struck in ascending. It was only possible to see a few yards down; -the rocks looked appallingly steep, glazed, and grizzly, and we knew not -what we were coming to. But at any rate we were moving, and in a stiller -atmosphere soon forgot the cold. We went fast, but only by means of -doing all we knew, for the climbing was really difficult. It was a case -of every man for himself, and every man for the rest of the party. Now -was the time to utilise all that we had ever learned of mountain craft. -Never before, speaking for myself only, have I felt so keenly the -pleasure of being united to thoroughly trustworthy and good -mountaineers; it was like the rush of an eight-oar, where the sense of -motion and the swish through the water alone are sufficient to make -every member of the crew put all his strength into each stroke. The mind -was too active to appreciate the pain of fatigue, and so we seemed -strong again. Now on the rocks, which were loose and crumbly in parts, -elsewhere big and glazed, now in deep snow, now on hard crusts, we -fought our way down. So rapid was the descent that, when the opportunity -offered, we looked anxiously through the mist in the hope of seeing the -glacier beneath. Surely we had hit on a possible line of descent to the -very bottom. But there was not a moment for the grateful repose so often -engendered by enquiring minds on the mountains. We were racing against -time, or at least against the malevolent powers of darkness. Down a -narrow flat couloir of rock of no slight difficulty we seemed to go with -perfect ease, but the rocks suddenly ceased and gave way to an -ill-favoured snow-slope. The leader stopped abruptly and turned sharp to -the right. A smooth ice-gully some 30 feet wide separated us from the -next ridge of rock. The reason for the change of direction was evident -enough when Burgener pointed it out. As long as the line of descent kept -to the side that was more sheltered during the day from the sun, so -long was the snow fairly good. Our leader judged quickly, and with the -soundest reasoning, as it proved directly afterwards, that the line we -had been following would infallibly lead, if pursued further, to snow as -treacherous as that with which we were now so familiar. Across the -ice-slope then we must cut, perhaps a dozen or fifteen steps. - -"The first two or three Burgener made vigorously enough, but when within -10 or 15 feet of the rocks the extra effort told. He faltered suddenly; -his blow fell listlessly, and he leant against the slope, resting hands -and head on his axe. 'I am almost exhausted,' he said faintly, as he -turned round to us, while his quivering hands and white lips bore -evidence to the severity of the exertion. So for a minute or two we -stood in our tracks. A word of encouragement called up what seemed -almost a last effort, some little notches were cut, and we gained the -rocks again. A trickling stream of water was coursing down a slab of -rock, and at this we gulped as eagerly as a fevered patient. Standing on -the projecting buttress, we looked anxiously down, and caught sight at -last of the glacier. It seemed close to us; the first few steps showed -that Burgener's judgment was right; he had changed the line of descent -at exactly the right moment, and at the best possible place. Down the -last few hundred feet we were able to go as fast as before. The level -glacier beneath seemed in the darkness to rise up suddenly and meet us. -We tumbled over the _bergschrund_, ran down a short slope on the farther -side of it, and stood in safety on the glacier, saved by as fine a piece -of guiding as I have ever seen in the mountains. We looked up at the -slope. To our astonishment all was clear, and I daresay had been so for -long. Above, in a blue-black frosty sky, the stars were winking merrily; -the mists had all vanished as by magic. No doubt the cold, which would -have settled us had we stayed on the ridge, assisted us materially in -the descent by improving the snow. - -"There seemed still just light enough to search for our tracks of the -morning across the glacier, and we bore well to the right in the hope of -crossing them. I fancy that the marks would have been really of little -use, but, anyhow, we could not find them, and so made a wide sweep -across the upper part of the snow basin. As a result we were soon in -difficulty with the crevasses, and often enough it seemed probable that -we should spend the rest of the night in wandering up and down searching -for snow bridges. But we reached at last a patch of shale and rock, -which we took to be the right bank of the little glacier we had crossed -in the morning. Our clothes were wet, and the cold was becoming so sharp -that it was wisely decided, against my advice, to push on if possible -to the tent at once. For some three or four hours did we blunder and -stumble over the moraine, experiencing not a few tolerably severe falls -as we did so. Andenmatten selected his own line of descent, and in a few -minutes we had entirely lost sight of him. It was too dark to find our -way across the glacier, and we could only hope by following the loose -stone ridge to make our way to the right place. So we stuck to the -rocks, occasionally falling and nearly sticking on their detestably -sharp points. Even a Caucasian moraine leads somewhere if you keep to it -long enough, and as we turned a corner, the huge glimmering mass of Dych -Tau, towering up in front, showed that the end of our journey was not -far off. Presently the little white outline of the tent appeared, but we -regarded it with apathy, and made no effort to quicken our movements, -although the goal was in sight; it seemed to require, in our -semi-comatose condition, almost an effort to stop. As we threw open the -door of the tent the welcome sight of divers packets, neatly arranged in -a corner, met our gaze. The head policeman had proved himself an honour -to his sex, an exception to his compatriots, and a credit to the force. -There were bread, sugar, rice, meat, and firewood--yet we neither spoke -nor were moved. Andenmatten spurned the parcels with his foot and -revealed the lowermost. A scream of delight went up, for they had found -a packet of tobacco. The spell was broken, and once more all were -radiant. Such is man. A strange compound--I refer to the tobacco--it -proved to be, that would neither light nor smoke, and possessed as its -sole property the power of violently disagreeing with the men. It was -past midnight before the expedition was over. There were few -preliminaries observed before going to bed. I don't think that even -Donkin took more than a quarter of an hour in arranging a couch to his -satisfaction, and placing a very diminutive air-cushion on anatomical -principles in exactly the right place, while Andenmatten was fast asleep -in two minutes, his head pillowed gently on some cold mutton, and his -boots reposing under the small of his back. Something weighed on our -minds as we too lay down and tried to sleep. The towering cone of -Tetnuld, the distant view of Uschba, Elbruz, and the giant Dych Tau, the -rock and snow-slopes, pictured themselves one after another as -dissolving views on the white walls of the tent. The expedition was -over, but the pleasure and the impressions it had evoked were not. -Faster and faster followed the visions as in delirium. I sat up, and in -the excitement of the moment dealt a great blow at the nearest object, -which, as it chanced, was Andenmatten's ribs. I shouted out to my -companion. A muffled 'hulloa' was the response, and he too rose up. -'What is it?' 'By Heavens! it is the finest climb we have ever made.' -And so it was." - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -A MELANCHOLY QUEST - - -The accident in the Caucasus in 1888, by which Messrs Donkin and Fox and -their two Swiss guides lost their lives, was one of the saddest that has -ever happened in the annals of mountaineering. I will not dwell on it, -but will rather pass on to the search expedition, a short account of -whose operations will serve to illustrate how a thorough knowledge of -mountaineering may be utilised in finding a conjectured spot in an -unmapped region in the snow world. - -The year after the accident--for the season when it occurred was too -advanced for a thorough search to be then undertaken--a party of four -Englishmen, Messrs Douglas Freshfield, Clinton Dent, Hermann Woolley, -and Captain Powell, with Maurer of the Bernese Oberland as leading -guide, set out from England to try and ascertain how the accident -happened, and, if possible, recover the remains. They succeeded, in the -course of a profoundly interesting journey, in finding the last camp of -their friends, and from Mr Clinton Dent's fine description in _The -Alpine Journal_ I make, with his kind consent, the following extracts. -They show how well the old school of climbers learnt all the routine of -their art, and how superior is the trained mountaineer of any -nationality to the inexperienced dweller amongst mountains, who is -utterly unable to advance a single step upon them. - -Having journeyed to the district and got over all the easier ground at -first met with, the party was now fairly embarked in the region of ice -and snow. - -"The day was well advanced," writes Mr Dent, "and it is only on rare -occasions in the Central Caucasus that the valleys and sky are free from -cloud at such an hour. But not a vestige of mist was to be seen. The -conditions were not merely of good omen, but were also in the hightest -degree fortunate, for the object of our search seemed very minute in the -presence of such gigantic surroundings. The air was clear and soft, and -the snow in perfect order for walking. We worked our way due west, and -gradually, as we turned the buttress of rock, a steep and broad -ice-gully came into view, leading up to the pass. This consisted of a -broad snow-topped depression, from 1500 to 1800 feet above the -snow-field. On the right or east of the pass the ridge ran sharply up to -the pinnacle already mentioned, while on the left the ridge, broken up -on its crest by great towers of rock, stretched away to the summit of -Dych Tau, the peak of which from our point of view was not visible. A -careful inspection of the rocks with the telescope revealed nothing. A -possible place for a bivouac might have been found at any point on the -rocks below the pass, but no particularly likely spot was evident. It -was conceivable too, of course, that the travellers had discovered a -more suitable place on the Ullu Auz side, close to the summit of the -pass. In any case our plan of action was clear, and we set forth without -delay to ascend the wall. Two long ribs of rock lying on the right of -the ice-gully offered the best means of access. Both looked feasible, -but it was only after a moment's hesitation that the left-hand one was -selected, as it seemed more broken, was broader, and ran up higher. If -the right-hand rib had been chosen, we might conceivably have missed the -object of our search altogether. We made our way up the rocks without -any great difficulty. Half-melted masses of snow constantly hissed down -the ice-gully as we ascended, and the great chasm that extends along the -base of the cliff was choked for the most part with avalanche snow. The -rocks were steep, but so broken as to offer good hand-and foot-hold. -Still, the mind was sufficiently occupied in attending to the details of -climbing to prevent the thoughts from wandering. Insensibly, we began -to think little save of the view that would be revealed from the top of -the pass. From time to time an opportunity would be found of gazing to -the right or left, but progress was tolerably continuous. Maurer, who -was leading, looked upwards now and again, as he worked out the best -line of ascent, but the rocks were so steep that he could only see a -very few feet. Just about mid-day, as he stopped for a moment to look -upwards, I saw his expression suddenly change. 'Herr Gott!' he gasped -out, 'der Schlafplatz!'[5] I think I shall never forget the thrill the -words sent through me. We sprang up, scrambling over the few feet that -still intervened, and in a moment were grouped on a little ledge just -outside the bivouac. There was little enough to be seen at the first -glance save a low horse-shoe shaped wall of stones, measuring some 6 -feet by 8, and carefully built against an overhanging rock. The -enclosure was full of drifted snow, raised up into a hump at the back, -where it covered a large ruecksack. On a ledge formed by one of the -stones, a little tin snow spectacle-box caught the eye as it reflected -the rays of the sun. For a few moments all was excitement as the -presence of one object after another was revealed. 'See here,' cried -Maurer, as he scooped away the snow with his hands, 'the sleeping-bags!' -'And here a ruecksack,' said another. 'Look, they made a fire there,' -called out a third, 'and here is the cooking kettle and the revolver.' -Then came somewhat of a reaction, and for a few minutes we could but -gaze silently at the place that told so clear a tale, and endeavour to -realise to the full the evidence that had come upon us with such -overwhelming suddenness. - - * * * * * - -"It is most probable that the accident occurred on the south side of the -cliffs forming the eastern ridge of Dych Tau. The party must have been -roped at the moment, and it is very reasonable to suppose that they were -engaged in traversing one of the many ice and snow covered slopes that -exist on this side. What the exact nature of the accident was matters -little; but it may be remembered that the snow on such slopes and ledges -often binds very lightly, and that there are no mountains, perhaps, -where these places are more numerous or more treacherous than in the -Caucasus. It was possibly one of those rare instances in which the rope -was a source of danger and not of security to the party as a whole. Yet -the rule is clear, and it amounts to this: if a place is too dangerous -to cross with a party roped, lest the slip of one drag down all, then it -is too dangerous to cross at all. So steep are the cliffs that a fall -must have meant instantaneous death. As an example, a torn sleeping-bag -which was thrown over the bivouac wall fell to the very bottom of the -slope, and we saw it just above the _bergschrund_ as we descended. It -was necessary to take down some of the articles discovered, for we might -otherwise have found difficulty in convincing the natives of the success -of the expedition, and this was an important point. The height of the -pass is 14,350 feet, and of the bivouac about 14,000 feet. We left the -bivouac at 3.30 P.M., the day being still perfectly cloudless. The -ice-fall offered some little difficulty, one or two of the bridges by -which we had crossed in the morning having broken down. Still we were -able to keep to almost the same line as that adopted in ascending. - - * * * * * - -"No one familiar with the Caucasus would be willing to believe that any -native could have reached the bivouac. The people are still very -timorous on ice, and are wholly incapable of facing an ice-fall, much -less of making any way through one. No native could have been got to the -place even if in the train of competent mountaineers; alone, he would -not have set foot on the glacier at all. - -"A day or two later we made our way down to the collection of villages -known as Balkar, a good three and a half hours' walk from Karaoul. The -place is not well spoken of, but we were hospitably received and -entertained. In this, as in many other villages subsequently, the story -of our search excited much interest. On every occasion the proceedings -were almost exactly identical. As usual in the Caucasus, the natives all -crowded into our apartment soon after arrival. Powell would then select -some Russian-speaking man in authority, and announce through him that -the results of our expedition would be made known to all who cared to -hear them. The whole story was then told, and admirably Powell used to -narrate it, winding up by pointing out how the people of the district -were now exonerated from any suspicion that may have lain on them. Such -suspicion, he used to add, had never been entertained by any English -people. The account was always listened to in breathless silence. At the -conclusion it was repeated by the chief to the natives in their own -language. Then the ruecksack was brought in and the articles found shown. -These were always instantly accepted as absolute proof; the rusty -revolver especially excited attention. Expressions of sorrow and brief -interjections were always heard on all sides. Then the chief spoke to -some such effect as follows: 'We are indeed rejoiced that you have found -these traces. It relieves our people from an irksome and unjust -suspicion. It is well that Englishmen came to our country for this -search, for we believe that no others could have accomplished what you -have done. We are all very grateful to you. Englishmen are always most -welcome in our country. We are glad to receive them. Our houses are -theirs, and the best we can do shall always be done for your -countrymen.' In several places--at Chegem, for instance--words were -added to this effect: 'We remember well Donkin and Fox; they were brave -and good men, and we loved them. It is very sad to us to think that they -are lost.'" - -A more detailed account of this melancholy quest will be found in Messrs -Douglas Freshfield's and Vittorio Sella's work, _The Exploration of the -Caucasus_. It is from this, the most beautifully illustrated of any book -on mountaineering, that, with Mr Freshfield's kind permission and that -of Mr Willink, I take the picture of the sleeping-place. The finished -drawing was made by Mr Willink from a sketch by Captain Powell. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND FATAL ACCIDENTS - - -Probably not half the narrow escapes experienced by climbers are ever -described, even in the pages of the various publications of English and -foreign Alpine Clubs, though when an accident by the breaking of a -snow-cornice is just avoided, the incident is so terribly impressive -that several accounts have found their way into print. Scarcely anything -more startling than a certain occurrence on a ridge of the Moench, which -happened to the late Mr Moore and his two guides, Melchior and Jacob -Anderegg, has ever been related. The party had succeeded in making the -ascent of the Moench from the Wengern Alp, it being only the third -occasion when this long and difficult climb was accomplished, each of -their predecessors spending _three days and three nights_ on the -expedition. - -[Illustration: MELCHIOR ANDEREGG, OF MEIRINGEN.] - -[Illustration: A SON AND A GRANDCHILD OF MELCHIOR ANDEREGG, 1903. - -_To face_ p. 124.] - -Having gained the summit, the party proceeded to go down by the usual -route towards the Trugberg. This follows a very narrow _arete_. "On the -left hand," says Mr Moore in _The Alpine Journal_, "is an absolute -precipice; on the right a slope, which might be called precipitous, -falls to the Aletsch Glacier. The quantity of snow on the ridge was -enormous, and the sun had begun to tell upon it. We knew too much to -attempt to approach the upper edge, and kept at a distance of some 12 -feet below it on the Aletsch side; lower down we dared not go, owing to -the steepness of the slope and the danger of starting an avalanche. With -Melchior in front it is unnecessary to say that we moved with the -greatest caution. No man is more alive than he to the danger arising -from a snow-cornice. He sounded with his axe at every step, and we went -steadily along, anxious, but with every reason to believe that we were -giving the cornice a wide berth. Suddenly came a startling cry from -Melchior. At the same instant I felt myself stagger, and, instinctively -swinging ever so slightly to the right, found myself the next moment -sitting astride on the ridge. With a thundering roar the cornice on our -left for a distance of some 200 yards went crashing down to the depths -below, sending up clouds of snow-dust which completely concealed my -companions from me. It was only by the absence of all strain on the rope -that I knew--though at the moment I scarcely realised the fact--that -they were, like myself, safe. As the dust cleared off, Melchior, also -sitting astride of the ridge, turned towards me, his face white as the -snow which covered us. That it was no personal fear which had blanched -our leader's sunburnt cheeks his first words, when he could find -utterance, showed. 'God be thanked!' said he; 'I never thought to see -either of you there.' We had, in fact, escaped destruction by a -hand's-breadth. As I believe, our right feet had been on the ridge, our -left on the cornice; we had thus just sufficient firm standing-ground to -enable us to make that instinctive movement to the right which had -landed us _a cheval_, for Jacob had fallen in the same position as -Melchior and myself. Few words were said; but words poorly express the -emotions at such a moment. Melchior's axe had been carried down with the -cornice as it fell, but had fortunately lodged on the face of the -precipice 50 feet below. It was too precious to leave behind, so we let -him down by the rope, and descending in a cat-like way peculiar to -first-class guides when not hampered by _Herrshaft_, he regained it -without difficulty. - -"Our further descent was uneventful." - -One of the greatest dangers of mountaineering is from falling stones, -yet the number of fatal accidents from this cause is as few as the -narrow escapes are many. As exciting an experience as can well be -imagined took place on the Aiguille du Midi at Chamonix in 1871. The -party consisted of Messrs Horace Walker and G. E. Foster. The latter -wrote a graphic account in _The Alpine Journal_, and kindly allows me -to make the following extracts. The guides were Jacob Anderegg and Hans -Baumann, and the climbers wished to ascend from the Montanvert and be -the first to go down the steep face of the mountain on the Chamonix -side. - -After some difficulty in finding the route, for both the guides were -unacquainted with the district, and Mr Walker alone knew in a vague sort -of way that the peak was somewhere in the neighbourhood of the Geant -ice-fall, they eventually stood on the top. It had taken them ten hours, -and they sat for some time on the more sheltered Chamonix side, debating -by what route they should descend. The slopes below were very steep, so -they decided to retrace their steps to the foot of the rocks, and then, -turning over on to the Chamonix side of the mountain, make their way as -best they could down ice-filled gullies and precipitous rocks. All at -first went well, and soon they commenced to cross the face of the cliff -to gain a rocky buttress that offered a likely route some hundred feet -below the top of the wall. "Jacob was leading," writes Mr Foster, -"Walker next, I followed, and Baumann brought up the rear. Only one was -moving at a time, and every one had the rope as taut as possible between -himself and his neighbour. Jacob was crossing a narrow gully, when -suddenly, without any warning, as though he had trod on the keystone of -the wall, the whole face for some 30 or 40 feet above him peeled off, -and with a crash like thunder, hundreds of tons of rocks precipitated -themselves on him. In an instant he was torn from his hold, and hurled -down the precipice with them. Fortunately, Walker was able to hold on, -though the strain on him was something awful. As the uproar ceased, and -silence even more impressive succeeded, we looked in one another's faces -with blank dismay. From our position it was impossible to see what had -become of Jacob, and only the tight rope told us that his body at least, -living or dead, was still fastened to us. In a voice singularly unlike -his own, Walker at length cried out, 'Jacob,' and our hearts sank within -us as it passed without response. 'Jacob! Ach Jacob!' Walker repeated; -and I trust none of my readers may ever know the relief we felt when the -reply came back, 'Ich lebe noch.'[6] - -"From where I was I could not see him, but Walker craned over a rock, -and then turned round. 'I see him. He is awfully hurt, and bleeding -frightfully.' I then contrived to shift my position, and saw that he was -indeed hurt. His face was black with blood and dirt, the skin torn from -his bleeding hands, while his clothes in ribands threatened worse -injuries still unseen. After a moment, he managed to recover his -footing, and then untied the rope with trembling fingers, and crawled -along the face of the cliff to the other side of the gully, where some -snow offered means to stanch his wounds. - -"As soon as he was safe, Baumann called on us to stand still, and -clambered carefully over the spot where the rocks had given way, our -only road lying there. I followed, and then Walker, knotting up the rope -to which Jacob had hung, crossed last. With Jacob below us, care was -necessary in climbing so as to send no more loose fragments on his head, -but we at last reached the spot where he was standing. Thanks to the -snow, the bleeding had already stopped to a great extent, and with the -aid of some sticking-plaster Walker had with him, and some torn strips -from a pocket-handkerchief, we bound up his wounds as well as we could. -He had had a marvellous escape; no fragment had struck him fully, the -rock that had grazed his face having missed knocking out his brains from -his presence of mind in throwing back his head. Fortunately, no bones -were broken, though he was badly bruised all over, and after a quarter -of an hour's rest and a good pull at the brandy-flask, he said he was -ready to start again. - -"On taking hold of the rope to tie him on again, we were awestruck to -find all its strands but one had been severed, so that his whole weight -had hung literally on a thread. Strange as it may appear, the rock that -had done this had probably saved his life by jerking him out of the line -of fire. Still, all honour to Messrs Buckingham for their good -workmanship, to which, and Walker's holding powers, we owe our escape -from a miserable ending of our day's work. As it was, poor Walker's ribs -had suffered sadly, and with two wounded men we recommenced our descent. - -"Naturally, our trust in the rocks was gone, and we took as soon as -possible to the steep snow of the couloir. This, however, lay so thin on -the ice, that we found we had only exchanged one danger for another. -Baumann led and we followed, driving in our axe-heads at every step, but -were soon forced to descend into a narrow gully, cut by avalanches, -where the snow was deep enough to give better footing. The sides of this -were above our heads, and the bottom not more than a foot wide, so that -the danger from avalanches was very great, but for a time we descended -safely. Then a startled shout from Walker warned me that something was -wrong, and driving my axe desperately into the side, I found myself up -to the neck in a snow avalanche. For a moment I thought all was up, but -held on to the best of my powers. Then finding the stream did not stop, -I looked back, and found Walker and Jacob had contrived to get out of -the gully. With a shout to Baumann, I gave a desperate struggle, and -followed their example, and instantly saw the snow I had held up surge -over Baumann's head. For a moment he held on, then climbed out on my -side. We waited till the avalanche had passed, two of us on one side of -the gully and two on the other, and then Walker and Jacob jumped into it -with a groan, as it shook their bruised bones, and climbed up to our -side, and with an occasional look for Baumann's hat, which the avalanche -had carried off with it, pursued our way. - -"So long and steep was the couloir, so thin and treacherous the snow -layer on the ice, that a good hour elapsed before we reached the bottom, -where a formidable _bergschrund_ cut off access to the glacier. Only at -one point could we find a bridge, and that was where our old enemy, the -avalanche gully, terminated, choking the crevasse with its snows, and -spreading in a fan-like mass below. With some hesitation, as our -recollection of it was not pleasant, and it was here all hard ice, -Baumann cut his way down into it. We were scarcely all fairly in it, -when we heard a tremendous crash above. Clearly, another avalanche was -descending, this time composed of rocks. As it was 2000 feet above us, -and would take some time to clear the distance, a short race for life -ensued. Baumann cut steps with amazing rapidity. Fortunately, some half -dozen only were necessary. With one eye on him and one keeping a sharp -look-out for the advent of the unwelcome stranger, we hastened down, -crossed the bridge, scampered down a slope, and merely stooping down to -pick up Baumann's hat, which turned up here, got out of the way just in -time, as an enormous mass of snow and rocks dashed over where we had -stood not a minute before." - -This was the last adventure the party had that day from avalanches, but -their troubles were as yet by no means over. Some formidable glacier -work had to be accomplished before all was plain sailing. "Though we -were now tolerably reckless, the difficulties in our way nearly beat -us," Mr Foster goes on to say. "Three times we tried, and thrice in -vain, though knife edges of the most revolting description were passed, -and crevasses of fabulous width and depth jumped or got over as seemed -best. Again and again we were forced to return. At length, when we were -almost in despair, a way was found, and at 6.30, drenched by the storm -which by this time had burst upon us, we reached the little hotel at the -Pierrepointue." - -There are no climbing dangers which skill and care can more surely avert -than those which are ever present on a crevassed, but snow-covered -glacier. - -[Illustration: CREVASSES AND SERACS ON THE LOWER PART OF A GLACIER.] - -[Illustration: A SNOW BRIDGE OVER A CREVASSE.] - -[Illustration: ON THE BORDER OF A CREVASSE ABOVE THE SNOW LINE.] - -[Illustration: SOFT SNOW IN THE AFTERNOON ON A GLACIER. - -By Signor R. Cajrati Crivelli Mesmer. - -_To face_ p. 133.] - -Should a party fail to arrest the fall of one of its members, and have -difficulty in pulling him above ground, however, the position may -become most serious. If another party is within hail, matters are -generally simple enough, yet even for four or five people it is not -always the easiest thing in the world to haul up a companion who has -disappeared into the bowels of the earth, especially if the folly of -walking unroped has been indulged in. - -A good description of what might have been a serious business but for -the skill and resource of a member of the party is given in the course -of a description of some climbs in the Rocky Mountains. The writer, Mr -Harold B. Dixon, says in _The Alpine Journal_: "A snow-covered crevasse -crossed our route at right angles. The party in front, who were without -ropes, saw the crevasse, and proceeded to leap it. All crossed in safety -but the last man, who broke through the snow and disappeared. Through -the hole the wide mouth of the crevasse was revealed, showing the danger -of trusting to the frail bridge. It was obviously dangerous to recross -without a rope, so his companions signalled to us for help, but for some -time we failed to observe their signals. - -"Though stunned by the fall our friend was not materially damaged, but -he was in a sufficiently awkward fix. Jammed between the narrowing walls -of ice, he was unable to move a limb except his right arm. The crevasse -did not drop perpendicularly, but the ice-wall bulged out from the side -we stood on, and then curved over out of sight; we could not see down -more than 18 feet. We stood in a little semicircle at the hole, and one -short sentence was spoken: 'Some one must go down.' We looked at each -other. Sahrbach and Baker are large and heavy men: it was obvious they -must 'pass.' I am of lighter build; I proclaimed my 11 stone and -readiness to go. But Collie went better. 'I am 9 stone 6,' was his -deliberate statement. There was no means of seeing if this was a bluff, -so we threw up our hands--the trick was his. Tying a stirrup loop for -one foot and a noose round his waist, Collie attached himself to one -rope, which was then joined to a second. Meanwhile the Americans were -brought across the crevasse by the aid of another rope, and axes were -fixed deep in the snow in suitable positions to fasten the rope to. Then -we let Collie down as far as he would go. An anxious moment followed. 'I -can't reach him,' came Collie's voice from below. Then, after a few -minutes, 'Send down a slip knot on the other rope.' We made the knot and -lowered the rope. How Collie managed it I don't know, for he could not -reach his man, but he threw the loop round the prisoner's right arm, and -then called on us to pull. At the second haul we felt something give, -and our friend was pulled into an upright position, when Collie could -just reach him with his left hand, and with this he tied a knot above -the elbow of his right arm. By this knot we hauled him out of the narrow -crevasse and on to the bulge of ice without difficulty. But as we pulled -the rope cut into the snow, and we could not raise our burden within 6 -feet of the surface. Then, while the rope was held taut, one of us -worked the handle of an axe along under the rope by sitting on the snow -and pushing it forward with his feet. In this way the rope was loosened, -and we could haul up another 3 feet, and then Sahrbach, leaning over, -reached his collar, and our half-frozen friend was deposited on the snow -with an assortment of flasks, while we fished out Collie from his -uncomfortable position. They were both very wet and cold, but no bones -were broken." - -Here we see that even with a large party of competent people, it was no -easy matter to rescue a comrade from his icy prison. The details are -well given, and may be useful to any one so unfortunate as to require by -personal experience a knowledge of what should be done under similar -circumstances. - -The danger of crossing snow-covered glaciers when the party does not -number more than two was brought home to those who heard of it by one of -the most tragical events which has ever been recorded in the annals of -mountaineering. A German, Dr Schaeffer, had been celebrating his golden -wedding at a small place on the Brenner on 22nd August 1900. He engaged -a guide, by name Johann Offerer, and, sleeping at a hut, started early -next morning. They reached the Wildlahner Glacier in an hour and a half -from their sleeping quarters, and after traversing it for some distance -came to a large crevasse. This the guide crossed safely on a snow -bridge, but the tourist, a much heavier man, broke through, and pulled -his companion down with him. They fell about 100 feet, with the result -that the guide had a broken thigh and arm, while Dr Schaeffer only -bruised his knee. He put his coat round Offerer and left food beside -him, and then tried to get out of the crevasse. After hours of toil and -pain he managed to reach a ledge not very far below the mouth of the -crevasse, but further he could not get. At last he gave up all hope, and -sat down to die, first, however, writing a full account of the accident, -and leaving a sum of money for the widow of his guide. It is to this -pathetic last effort of his life that we owe our knowledge of what -happened. The only other instance at all like it is the terrible -accident on Mont Blanc in 1870, when eleven persons perished in a -snow-storm, one of their number, Mr Bean, leaving details in his diary -of the events immediately preceding the catastrophe. - -[Illustration: THE BETEMPS HUT.] - -[Illustration: SKI-ING.] - -[Illustration: HOW A BEGINNER USUALLY ENDS A RUN.] - -[Illustration: A GREAT CREVASSE IN THE UPPER SNOW FIELDS. - -_To face_ p. 137.] - -It was only on 5th September, after a long search, that the remains of -the two unfortunate men were discovered. - -The following is of special interest, because, of late years, the -Norwegian sport of ski-ing has become exceedingly popular in Alpine -winter resorts. It is impossible, however, owing to the great length of -the ski, to go in difficult places on them, and therefore mountaineers -have only used them when intending to ascend to points accessible -entirely over snow-slopes, not much broken up by crevasses. The first -fatal accident to a climbing party on ski took place in 1902, and may -serve as a warning to those intending to traverse glaciers in winter on -skis, or indeed even without them. I take my account from a translation -from the Italian, which appeared in _The Alpine Journal_. The comments -by the editor should be laid to heart. - -"A party of five gentlemen and four Zermatt guides left Zermatt on 24th -February for the Betemp Hut, with the intention of ascending the -Signalkuppe and the Zumstein, _via_ the Grenz Glacier and the Capanna -Margherita. - -"The 25th was spent in ski practice in the neighbourhood of the hut. On -the 26th the whole party, with the exception of one guide who had -brought a defective pair of skis, left the hut at 3.30 A.M. in weather -marked by no adverse conditions of any kind. The Grenz Glacier was -reached somewhat west of the point marked 3344 metres on the Siegfried -map. The party unroped, proceeded upwards on their skis towards the -point marked 3496 metres, the surface of the glacier, covered with deep -snow, showing no crevasses nor the indications of any. About midway -between 3300 metres and the point 3344 metres the caravan found itself -on a gentle slope, when a muffled crack was heard, and Herr Koenig, Herr -Flender, and one of the guides, Hermann Perren, were seen to sink almost -simultaneously into a concealed crevasse about 6 feet in width, which -ran in a direction parallel with the glacier, carrying with them a mass -of snow about 65 feet in length and over 14 feet in thickness. -Obviously, no amount of probing would have indicated the presence of the -crevasse, and thus by an unfortunate coincidence the three men were -standing at the same time over the hidden abyss without knowing it. One -of the other guides was instantly lowered into the crevasse by the only -available rope (the other being on Herr Flender's back), which proved to -be just too short to reach Hermann Perren, who had fallen about 90 feet, -and was standing upright against the side of the crevasse, held fast in -a mass of snow which had left his head and one arm free. Two of the -party hurried down to fetch another rope from the Betemps Hut. In the -meanwhile Perren had managed, after a struggle of two and a half hours, -almost to set himself free, and was eventually drawn out safely, -practically uninjured, save a slightly frost-bitten hand. The dead body -of Herr Flender, found with his neck broken, partially covered with some -2 feet of hard snow, was then extricated, but in spite of persistent -efforts the body of Herr Koenig was not recovered until the next day, -when he was found lying face downwards under a mass of compact snow over -10 feet thick. Death in his case was instantaneous, caused by -suffocation, the body bearing no signs whatever of external injury. Herr -Koenig was laid to rest in the English cemetery at Zermatt, while the -body of Herr Flender was conveyed by his relatives to its last -resting-place at Duesseldorf. This is, we think, the first fatal accident -which has occurred to a party of climbers on skis bound on a serious -climbing expedition. The party on this occasion cannot with justice be -accused of recklessness, for the apparent neglect of the usual -precaution of putting on the rope on a snow-covered glacier will not be -misunderstood by those accustomed to the use of skis, who will readily -understand that the rope is practically impossible, and even dangerous, -for a party on skis. - -"A remarkable feature of the accident was the thickness of the mass of -snow which gave way under the three men, and demonstrates the extreme -insecurity of winter snow on a crevassed glacier. It is possible that -the three men were perhaps too close to each other at the time of the -accident. - -"It is evident that winter climbers who wish to use skis must carry -their lives in their own hands, and perhaps the safer plan for future -expeditions of this kind will be to make the ascent roped in the usual -way on snow _racquettes_ carrying the skis on the back. On the descent -the risk of breaking through the snow covering during the rapid progress -on skis would of course be very much less than on the ascent." - -One of the most fruitful causes of accidents on mountains is the -underrating of difficulties by ignorant persons who, having been hauled -up and let down precipices by a couple of sturdy guides in fine weather, -proceed to inform their friends and acquaintances that "Nowadays the -Matterhorn is mere child's play, don't cher know." - -A sorry tale is told by the famous climber, Mr Cecil Slingsby, who, -himself accustomed to undertake the hardest climbs without guides, would -be the first to discourage imitation in any unfit to follow in his -steps. - -Writing of Skagastoeldstind, in Norway, of which he made the first -ascent, and which is still considered the most difficult of the -fashionable climbs in that country, he says in _The Alpine Journal_: - -"In 1880 a young tourist, son of a rich banker, whom I will call Nils, -desirous of emulating our exploits, attempted the mountain, and with the -assistance of two good climbers, who shoved and hauled him up the rocks, -succeeded in reaching the summit. Unfortunately, he afterwards wrote a -pamphlet of sixty-six pages about the mountain, in which he underrated -its difficulties. This pamphlet, I unhesitatingly assert, has been the -main cause of a terrible tragedy which took place on Skagastoeldstind. It -was in this manner. At one of the series of huts built by the tourist -club a young man, named Toensberg, who had been partially deranged, was -staying with his wife, and was deriving much benefit from the mountain -air. Here he read this pamphlet, and inferred that though -Skagastoeldstind was undoubtedly a very fine mountain, yet the -difficulties of its ascent had been much exaggerated, and that any one -might make it. Upon this he set off with a lad seventeen years of age, -at 9.30 P.M., in vile weather; walked through the night (in the middle -of summer it is never dark), and reached a saetor (or chalet) at 3 A.M.; -here they found Peter, one of Nils' guides, who refused to have anything -more to do with the mountain. At last, by means of bribes, and by -promising to turn back at once if the mountain should prove -impracticable, Peter was persuaded to go forward; and at 6 o'clock they -sallied out into the wet. Wind and snow soon assailed them, but -Toensberg would persist in his rash work. At 11 they reached the actual -base of the peak, 4100 feet below the top. The lad was frost-bitten and -could go no further; neither could Peter. They tried to tie the man with -ropes, but he was too strong for them, and used his alpenstock against -them, and it was no good. Soon afterwards he left them in the mist, and -in twenty strides was out of sight. A month or five weeks after this his -remains were found in a deep chasm between a glacier and the rocks, -amidst crags at least 2000 feet higher up on the mountain. I may add -that the valley Midt Maradal, out of which Skagastoeldstind rises, is so -difficult to approach, that though it contains rich pasturage at its -lower end--a mine of wealth in Norway--its owner, a man of forty-five -years, who has overlooked it hundreds of times and lives within three -miles of it as the crow flies, had never been in it when I saw him last, -and has asked me several times to guide him into it." - -Referring to an expedition from Mouvoison, which began, as do most -climbs, over grass slopes, Mr Clinton Dent remarks in _Above the Snow -Line_: - -"One ascent over a grass slope is very much like another, and -description in detail would be as wearisome as the slopes themselves -often prove. Yet it is worthy of notice that there is an art to be -acquired even in climbing grass slopes. We had more than one -opportunity on the present occasion of seeing that persons look -supremely ridiculous if they stumble about, and we noticed also that, -like a bowler when he has delivered a long hop to the off for the third -time in one over, the stumbler invariably inspects the nails in his -boots, a proceeding which deceives no one. It is quite easy to judge of -a man's real mountaineering capacity by the way in which he attacks a -steep grass slope. The unskilful person, who fancies himself perfectly -at home among the intricacies of an ice-fall, will often candidly admit -that he never can walk with well-balanced equilibrium on grass, a form -of vegetable which it might be thought in many instances of -self-sufficient mountaineers, would naturally suit them. There is often -real danger in such places, and not infrequently the wise man will -demand the use of the rope, especially when there are any tired members -among the party. There is no better way of learning how to preserve a -proper balance on a slope than by practising on declivities of moderate -steepness, and it is astonishing to find how often those who think they -have little to learn, or, still worse, that there is nothing to learn, -will find themselves in difficulties on a mountain-side, and forced to -realise that they have got themselves into a rather humiliating -position. We may have seen, before now, all of us, distinguished -cragsmen to whom an ascent of the Weisshorn or Matterhorn was but a mere -stroll, utterly pounded in botanical expeditions after Edelweiss, and -compelled to regain a position of security by very ungraceful sprawls, -or, worse still, have to resort to the unpardonable alternative of -asking for assistance." - -The following accounts of adventures on grass slopes, taken from _The -Alpine Journal_, may serve to bear out the truth of Mr Dent's remarks: - -"On Monday, 31st August, Mr J. F. C. Devas, aged 26, accompanied by a -friend, Mr A. G. Ferard, proceeded after lunch to take a stroll from the -Riffel-Haus towards the Gorner Glacier by the Theodule path. Before -reaching the glacier they returned, Mr Ferard by the ordinary route. Mr -Devas, leaving the path to the left, attempted a short cut by climbing -some wet and slippery rocks leading to a grass slope above. He reached a -difficult place, immediately below the slope, beyond which he was unable -to go. Mr Ferard made his way as speedily as possible to the grass slope -and to within a few yards of his friend. While Mr Ferard was -endeavouring to render assistance, Mr Devas, in trying to pull himself -up, lost his footing and slid down about 70 feet to a ledge covered with -turf, which it might have been hoped would have arrested his fall. -Unfortunately, the impetus was sufficient to carry him over the ledge to -a further distance of about 70 feet below. His friend hastened to the -Riffel-Haus for assistance, and a number of guides and porters, -accompanied by Mr Ferard and a French gentleman, hurried to the scene of -the accident. Mr Devas, who had sustained a severe fracture of the -skull, was brought back to the Riffel-Haus about 5 P.M., where he -received the most unremitting care from M. Seiler's staff of servants. -He was unconscious from the moment of the accident till he died at noon -of the following day." - -Another writer gives an account of an adventure on a grass slope which, -happily, had a less serious ending. He also attempted to make a short -cut. - -"I entangled myself in an adventure which, as nearly as possible, ended -in a catastrophe. Not caring to turn back, I followed a track past the -chalets of Cavrera, in hope of being able to find a direct ascent over -the steep lower ground that enclosed the head of the valley. It seemed -as I advanced that among the ledges of rock and grass at the left-hand -corner there would be access to the path above. A dubious and attenuated -track which led me up in this direction after giving evidence of design -in a few steps notched in the great gneiss slabs, vanished, leaving me -to choose between the slabs which sloped up in front and a line of -juniper bushes on the left of them. As the slabs at this spot could be -walked upon, and higher up seemed to ease off again, I kept to the rocks -without investigating the juniper belt. But walking exchanged itself for -climbing, and I continued to ascend under the impression that I should -shortly gain the inclination above. I came to a spot where I had to -raise myself on to a small rounded knob of rock with a slight effort, -there being no hand-hold above. From this vantage-ground I was able to -repeat the process, still buoyed up with the belief that the easy part -would be reached above, and to hoist myself on to the only remaining -hold in the neighbourhood--a strong tuft of grass in a sort of half -corner in the slabs--which supported one foot well, but one foot only. I -now found I could go no further. The strata inclined downwards, so that -the smooth and crackless slabs overlay one another like the slates on a -house-roof, and there was no more hold for hand or foot apparent, while -the slabs were far too steep for unsupported progression. The next -discovery was a much more alarming one; I looked below, wondered why on -earth I had come up such a place, and saw at a glance that I could not -get down again. If I fell, moreover, it would not be by the line of my -ascent, but down steeper rocks and to a lower depth. Generally in a -dilemma in climbing there is a sort of instinctive feeling that an -escape will be made at last, but now, for the first time, I was seized -with a sentiment akin to despair. One chance only remained, and that was -to take off my boots and stockings and try the slabs above. - -"The stories of extraordinary predicaments in the Alps one is apt to -receive with some incredulity. I never altogether accepted the tale of -the chamois-hunter's gashing his feet, and, needless to say, it did not -occur to me to imitate him in this particular. For the rest, I can only -promise the literal narration of circumstances _as they presented -themselves to me at the time_. It is, indeed, sufficiently sensational -without exaggeration. Well, it appeared at first impossible to take my -boots off; I was facing the rocks with one toe on the turf, and the -necessary manipulation could not be accomplished. What was to be done? -This was, perhaps, the worst moment of the whole, as far as sensation -went. However, by turning round, and planting my heel on the tuft and my -back on the rock, I found myself in a secure and tolerably comfortable -position. I now set to work and slung my boots separately round my neck -as I took them off, pocketing the socks. All was done with deliberation; -the laces were as usual untied with the button-hook in my cherished -knife, and the latter was carefully returned to my pocket with the -thought that if it went down it should be in my company. Meantime the -necessary rigidity of position had to be preserved; there was only room -in the turf for one heel, and for the point of my ice-axe, for which -there was no other possible resting-place. Its preservation, indeed, -that day was wonderful; at one time I felt a momentary temptation to -throw it down in order to better the hold with the hand, but this would -not bear a second thought. - -"I now lost no time in placing myself on the slabs. I found that I dare -not move on them in an upright position, and had to seek support with -both hands. My condition was not an enviable one, and in no direction -could an effort to proceed be made without danger. The situation was as -follows: If I could manage to advance in front, I should, eventually, -reach the more easily inclined slabs, on which I could walk; but then it -was some way. If I could cross the much shorter interval (some 15 feet) -to the right, I should reach a grass band below the rocks at the side; -but then there intervened a broad, black, glistening streak, where -waters oozed down and where to tread was fatal. Suddenly, without any -warning, I found myself going down. I remember no slip, but rather that -it was as if all hold gave way at once under the too potent force of -gravity. Anyhow I was sliding down the rocks, and that helplessly I -made, I believe, little or no attempt to obtain fresh hold; I simply -remained rigid in the position in which I was, waiting for the fatal -momentum to come which should dash me below. The instants passed, and at -each I expected the momentum to begin. I felt quite a surprise when, -instead, the sliding mass slowly pulled up and came to a stoppage. The -scales of fate had been most delicately balanced, and a hair's weight in -the right one decided that this paper should be written. Had I -floundered, like a non-swimmer out of his depth, I must have gone down; -but the first moments of despondency past the opening for action had -once for all brought with it that species of mechanical coolness which -is the happy concomitant of so many forms of habitual physical -occupation. - -[Illustration: The balloon "Stella" getting ready to start from Zermatt -for the first balloon passage of the Alps, September, 1903. - -(_P. 301._)] - -[Illustration: A bivouac in the Alps in the olden days. By the late Mr. -W. F. Donkin.] - -[Illustration: Boulder practice on an off day. - -_To face_ p 148.] - -[Illustration: The last rocks on the descent.] - -"If it be asked, what were my thoughts when I was going down, I can only -reply that they chiefly amounted to a sort of dull feeling that I was -actually in for a fall, being concentrated on waiting for its inevitable -commencement; and that there was no such terror or disagreeable -realisation of the situation as people are apt to assign to such -moments. Such realisations exist most deeply in the imaginations of the -non-combatants outside the fray. During the whole affair my attention -was mainly directed to the physical combating with difficulties, and the -passing reflections were partly indifferent, partly frivolous. A sort -of acceptance of the position, indeed, possessed me, which almost -amounted to a melancholy complacency, and, at most, perhaps, the -customary 'When I get out of this' was changed as fast as it rose up in -my imagination into a sadder 'If ever.' It was the feeling of the -gamester or the soldier surprised at last by adverse odds, intent on his -craft as at other times, but with a new and melancholy consciousness. - -"My first thought when I came to a standstill--I cannot have gone more -than a couple of feet at most--was what I could do even then, with no -more hold than before? But I placed myself again in my old position on -the tuft; and reflecting that if I had been intended to go down I should -have gone then, and almost feeling as if, having escaped that extremity -of risk, I had a sort of security for the rest, I resolved without -further hesitation to make a determined effort. I once more raised -myself on my feet and decided to make a push across the slabs to the -grass belt at all hazards; possibly, in case of slipping on the way, I -might be able to make a desperate sort of rush for it. I now found two -unevennesses in succession, which would allow the side of the foot to -rest in them with some chance of staying, while I moved my body along, -there being at no time hold for the hand. The second of these slight -hollows was fortunately in the dread bank of moisture itself. Below, -the rocks shelved away to a steep fall; in front, the grass tufts smiled -on me nearer and nearer. While I was feeling along the slabs with the -hand that held my ice-axe, the latter by chance fixed itself in a cavity -that would otherwise have escaped my notice. It was just about the size -and depth of a half-crown, and could not have been caught by the -fingers, but the rigid iron stuck in it. This was perhaps the first bit -of direct hold I had. A yard further on was another of the same size. -But now I had passed the wet rock and was nearing the grass, and -carefully launching my ice-axe, so as not to disturb my balance, I -hooked it in the grass, and in another moment had reached its hospitable -tufts. Creeping up the side, I at last found _terra firma_." - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -A NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE DENT BLANCHE - - -Mr Cecil Slingsby has kindly allowed me to extract the following -admirable account of a guideless ascent with two friends of the Dent -Blanche. It will be noticed that during a very cold night they "avoided" -their "brandy-flask like poison." When a climber is exhausted and help -is near a flask of brandy is invaluable, but when a party has to spend a -bitterly cold night in the open, it is madness to touch spirits at all. -The effect of a stimulant is to quicken the action of the heart and -drive the blood with increased rapidity to the surface. Here it is -continually cooled, and before long the heart finds it has to work -double hard to keep up the circulation. Therefore to take brandy in -order to resist the cold for hours together is like stirring up a cup of -hot fluid, whereby fresh surfaces are continually brought in contact -with the air and cooled with far greater rapidity than if left quiet. -The best companion a climber can have during a night out above the -snow-line is a small spirit-lamp. With this he can amuse and fortify -himself at intervals, melting snow and making tea or soup, which will be -of real help in enabling the party to pass without injury through the -ordeal. Doctors and climbers of experience will, I know, bear out what I -say. The truth of it was once more shown not very long ago under the -following circumstances: - -[Illustration: PROVISIONS FOR A MOUNTAIN HOTEL. By Royston Le Blond. - -_To face p. 152._] - -[Illustration: THE DENT BLANCHE FROM THE THEODULE GLACIER IN SUMMER.] - -[Illustration: AN OUTLOOK OVER ROCK AND SNOW.] - -[Illustration: THE DENT BLANCHE FROM THE SCHWARZSEE IN WINTER.] - -In August 1902 two French tourists with a guide and a porter set out to -ascend Mont Blanc. The weather became very bad, nevertheless they -pressed on, hoping to reach that veritable death-trap, the Vallot Hut. -In this they failed, and as the hour was late they took the fatal course -of digging a hole in the snow in which to pass the night. They were -provided with brandy, and, doubtless in ignorance of the results it was -sure to cause, they shared all they had. Both travellers died before -morning, and the guides then attempted to descend to Chamonix. They seem -to have been dazed, and to have lost their heads, and within a few -minutes of each other each fell into a crevasse. The porter was killed -on the spot, the guide was rescued, but little injured, after six hours' -imprisonment. - -Will people ever realise that Mont Blanc, by reason of the very facility -by which it may be ascended, is the most dangerous mountain a beginner -can ascend? He is almost certain to chance on incompetent guides, and -these, if the weather becomes bad, have not the moral force--indeed a -first-class man would have something even more compelling--to insist on -an immediate return. The size of the mountain is so great that to be -lost on it is a risk a really good guide would simply refuse to face. - -To turn now to Mr Slingsby's narrative. His party had reached the -_arete_ of the Dent Blanche without incident, and he writes: - -"The rocks on the crest of the ridge were in perfect order. The day was -magnificent, and there was not the remotest sign of a storm. Climbers -who were on neighbouring mountains on this day all speak of the fine -weather. My friend, Mr Eric Greenwood, who was on the Rothhorn, told me -that that peak was in capital condition, but that there was a strong -N.W. wind blowing at the top. We had perfect calm. Mr Greenwood stopped -on the snow _arete_ till a late hour in the afternoon, taking -photographs, and neither his guides nor he had the slightest expectation -of a thunderstorm. - -"We stuck faithfully to the ridge, and climbed up, and as nearly as -possible over, each point as we reached it, because of the ice which -shrouded the rocks almost everywhere on the west face. - -"We were forced on to the face of one little pinnacle, and had to use -the greatest care. - -"Nowhere did we come to any place where we felt that our powers were -overtaxed; still, the work was difficult, though not supremely so. - -"A few days later I met Mr Conway at Breuil, and I asked him what he -meant in this case by the term, 'following the _arete_.' His -interpretation, which is rather an elastic one, is this: 'Climb over the -pinnacles if it is convenient to do so. If not convenient, shirk them by -passing below their western bases.' This latter method was most probably -impracticable on the occasion of our ascent, which fully accounts for -the great difference between Mr Conway's 'times' and our own, as we -certainly climbed at least as quickly as an average party on the Dent -Blanche during the whole of our ascent. - -"The time sped merrily and quickly by, and the difficulties decreased as -we hastened onward. Just as we left the last rocks a light filmy cloud, -sailing up from the north, hovered for an instant over the top of the -mountain, and then settled upon it; otherwise, though it had then become -exceedingly cold, the sky was clear and the day perfect, and we could -not help comparing our good fortune with that of those early climbers -who fought their way upwards, step by step, against most ferocious -gales. - -"After some tiring step-cutting on the gentler slopes above the rocks, -which, like the west face, were sheathed in ice, we reached at last the -south end of the little flat ridge which forms the summit of the Dent -Blanche, where a small flagstaff is usually to be seen. Here there was -an enormous snow cornice which overhung the eastern side. The little -cloud merely clung to the cornice on the ridge, and evidently had no -malice in it at all. None of us put down the time at which we reached -the top. One of us thinks that it was just after four o'clock, but the -memory of the two others is clear that it was between three and four; at -any rate, of this we are all agreed, that it was not so late as 4.12, -the hour when the author of _Scrambles in the Alps_ reached the summit -in bad weather. My watch, being out of order, was left at Zermatt. - -"We left directly, and in less than a minute were out of the little -cloud, which was uncommonly cold, and again we revelled in bright -sunshine. We were under no apprehension of danger, nor had we any reason -whatever to be anxious, as our way was clear enough: there was no doubt -about that. We were in capital training, and we had, most certainly, a -sufficiency of daylight still left to allow us to get well beyond every -difficulty upon the mountain. Moreover, Solly, with his usual -instinctive thoughtfulness, carried a lantern in his pocket, and we had -left another lower down. Thus we had a most reasonable expectation of -reaching the Stockje that evening, and Zermatt early the next morning. - -[Illustration: The hut on the Col de Bertol, where climbers now often -sleep for the ascent of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: A party ascending the Aiguilles Rouges (Arolla). The -people can be seen on the sky-line to the left, at the top of the white -streak. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: The summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: Cornice on the summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard -Rawlence. - -_To face p. 156._] - -"When we had come down for about an hour, we saw an occasional flash of -lightning playing about the Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla. This was the -first indication that we had of foul weather. Soon afterwards a dark -cloud crept up ominously over the shoulder of Mont Collon, and on to the -Pigne d'Arolla. Still no cloud seemed to threaten us, but we hurried on -very quickly. - -"On arriving at the col, just above the great rock tower, we turned down -a little gully on the west face. Here, though the work was exceedingly -difficult, we lost no time whatever, and undoubtedly we chose the best -route. The storm, meanwhile, had crossed over the east Arolla ridge, and -we saw the lightning flashing about the Aiguille de la Za and Dent -Perroc, and the clouds, as they advanced, grew more and more angry -looking. - -"We were advancing as quickly as the nature of the ground would allow on -a buttress which supports the great tower on the west. It was then about -six o'clock. We had, at the most, only 150 feet of difficult ground to -get over, when a dark and dense cloud fell upon us, and it became, -suddenly and almost without any warning, prematurely dark. Our axes -emitted electric sparks, or rather faint but steady little flames, on -both the adze and pick part; so also did our gloves, the hair of which -stood out quite straight. A handkerchief, which I had tied over my hat, -was like a tiara of light. This was very uncanny, but still deeply -interesting. The sparks, when touched by the bare hand or the cheek, -gave out no heat. There was no hissing to be heard on our axes or on the -rocks, but Solly felt a sort of vibration about the spectacles which -were on his forehead that he did not at all like, so he put them under -his hat. - -"Under ordinary circumstances we should have put away our axes until the -storm should had passed away. Of course we did not do this, nor indeed -would any other member of the Alpine Club have done so if he had had the -good fortune to be with us. We wished to get across the 150 feet which -was the only difficulty yet remaining before us. Each one of us was -quite capable of undertaking the work, and, in spite of the unusual -darkness, we had sufficient light for the purpose. - -"Solly was leading across a difficult bit of rock, and clearing away the -ice; Haskett-Smith was paying out the rope as required; I was perched -firmly at the bottom end of a narrow and steep ledge round the corner of -a crag above them with the rope firmly hitched. We were all working -steadily and most carefully, and hoped in a few minutes to clear our -last difficulty. All at once the whole mountain side seemed to be -ablaze, and at the same time there was a muzzled, muffled, or suppressed -peal of thunder, apparently coming out of the interior of the -mountain--so much so that, if a great crevice had been opened in the -rocks and fire had burst out from it, we should hardly have been more -surprised than we were. Solly and Haskett-Smith each exclaimed, 'My axe -was struck,' and each of them, naturally enough, let his axe go. Where -to none knew. Solly, describing this, says, 'At the moment I was -standing with my face towards the mountain, with my right arm stretched -out, feeling for a firm foothold with my axe, which I held just under -its head. For perhaps a minute the lightning was coming very fast; then -came the noise, and I saw a curve of flame on the head of my axe. I -involuntarily let it go. The whole place seemed one blaze of light, and -I could distinguish nothing. The thought that rushed through my mind -was--Am I blinded? the intensity of the light was so terrible. It is -difficult to put such events in any order of time; but I think the noise -or explosion came first, before the blaze of light, and the light seemed -to flicker as if a series of flashes were coming. I hardly know whether -my body or any part of my clothing was actually struck. My axe certainly -was, and I think the rocks just by me were.' - -"Haskett-Smith said that his neck was burnt, and we saw later that a -dark-brown band, an inch and a quarter wide, had been burnt exactly half -way round his neck. I was untouched. All the sparks disappeared with -the flash. - -"Now the matter was serious enough, as we had only one axe, and we felt -that we had had a most providential escape. There is little doubt that, -if this had occurred upon the crest of the ridge above us, the electric -current would have been much stronger, and the consequences much worse. - -"My two companions then climbed up to the little ledge where I was -sitting, to wait at least until the storm should pass away. Whilst Solly -was doing this, a tremendous gust of wind swept up from the N.W., and -nearly carried him off his feet. - -"The storm lasted much longer than we expected it to do, and by the time -it had vanished it was quite dark. All climbers will readily agree with -me when I say that the storm, seen from such a point of view, where the -mountain forms are so wild, and their guardian glaciers so vast and -glittering, was indescribably grand--so much so that, even under our -circumstances, there was a kind of grim enjoyment which we could not -help feeling. - -"I put my axe upon a higher ledge for safety's sake. When the storm had -gone by we took stock of our goods. Solly had a lantern. We each had two -shirts, scarfs, and unusually warm clothing. We had plenty of food, some -cold tea, and a flask of brandy. We knew well that we must stop where we -were until morning. It was hard luck certainly, as there was only one -narrow prison moat between us and freedom. Once over these 150 feet, we -could have reached the Stockje by lantern light. Of this I am certain. -But no man living could cross the moat except in daylight. - -"Haskett-Smith, who is a marvellous man for making all sort of hitches, -knots, and nooses, managed to get a capital hitch for our rope, and -lashed us to the rock most skilfully. The ledge was steep, and varied -from 11/2 to 2 feet wide. As we could not sit back to back, which is the -best plan when possible, we did the next best thing, and sat, squatted, -or leaned, face to back. Solly, who sat at the bottom, had a loose piece -of friable rock which supported one foot. I was in the middle, with my -knees up to my chin, on a steep slope, but was supported by Solly's back -and by a singularly sharp little stone on which I squatted. -Haskett-Smith leaned with his back against a corner, and with his knees -against my back. Each of us had a ruecksack, which helped to keep out the -cold. We made a good meal of potted meat, bread, chocolate, and an -orange, and left a box of sardines and other food for the morning. - -"Several short but heavy snow and hail showers fell after the -thunderstorm had subsided, but we were thankful that there was no rain. -The wind got up too, and whistled wildly through the crags above us. -Fortunately, a screen of rock above our ledge partly sheltered us. We -faced a grim and grisly little pinnacle on the west face of the -mountain, which became, hour after hour, if possible, more ghostly. How -we did hate it, to be sure. A light in a chalet near Ferpecle shone like -a beacon for some hours, which was a pleasant contrast to the near view -of the ghost, but it seemed to be a terribly long way off. We kept up -our spirits capitally, and from previous experience I, at least, knew -how thankful we ought to be that no member of our party was of a -pessimistic turn of mind. At the same time, we were fully aware how -serious the matter was, but we were determined to get well through it, -helped, we trusted, by a power not our own. - -"Our greatest trouble during the night arose from the consciousness that -Mr Schuster, Herr Seiler, and other friends at Zermatt would be very -anxious about us, and we often spoke of it with regret. - -"We were most careful to keep moving our hands and feet all the night, -and, though the temptation to indulge in sleep was very great, we denied -ourselves this luxury. After two o'clock an increased vigilance was -necessary, as the sky became clearer, and the cold much more intense. Mr -Aitkin's guides, who were then bivouacking above the Stockje, -'complained much of the cold.' We probably suffered less than they did, -as, at our great altitude, the air was doubtless much drier than below. -At the same time, gentlemen who were occupying comfortable beds in -luxurious hotels in the Vispthal thought the night was unusually warm. -Haskett-Smith imagined the whole night that Solly was another member of -the A.C., and invariably addressed him by the wrong name. This -hallucination was, no doubt, the result of the electric shock. - -"Shortly before 5 A.M. we opened our sardine-box, which was no easy -task, as our outer gloves were like iron gauntlets. We made a good meal -of petrified fish, frozen oranges, and bread. We avoided our -brandy-flask like poison on the whole expedition. - -"We soon discovered the lost axes below us, half embedded in hard snow. -Then we began to move. Solly took my axe, and with much difficulty, and -at the expense of a good deal of time, cut down to and recovered one of -the missing ones. We found, however, that it was then far too cold, and -we were too benumbed to work safely, so we returned to our ledge again -until eight o'clock. Long before this hour the ghostly pinnacle was -gilded by the morning sun, and, if possible, we hated it more than ever, -as no warm rays could reach the place where we were for hours to come. -On telling several of the leading guides in Zermatt about waiting until -eight o'clock on the ledge, they all said that it was quite early -enough for us to move after spending a night out in the cold, and that -they had done exactly the same under similar circumstances. We were sure -we were right; still their testimony is valuable. Messrs Kennedy and -Hardy, when they had their 'Night Adventure on the Bristenstock,' say -they were 'obliged to stamp about for some twenty minutes in order to -restore circulation, or we should not have had sufficient steadiness to -have continued our descent in safety.' Well, these gentlemen had neither -waistcoats nor neckties, and had only a lump of bread and one bottle of -wine. We were at least well fed and warmly clad, but we had no room to -stamp about. Having now two axes, we were able to work again with -renewed confidence in our powers. We saw the third axe lying half -imbedded in the snow a long way below us, and about a rope's length from -some firm rocks. The hail and snow, which had partly covered the rocks, -increased the difficulty, and the ice in which we had to cut steps was -unusually hard. In fact, our 150 feet were gained with much difficulty, -and, by the exercise of great caution and severe labour, at last, after -much time and manoeuvring, we recovered the third axe, and were indeed -happy. - -"Two minutes later we stood in bright sunshine, and such was its -invigorating power that in ten minutes all our stiffness had vanished. -My hat blew off here, and rolled on its stiffened brim at a tremendous -pace down a couloir of ice. Fortunately, I had a woollen helmet which -Miss Richardson had knitted for me. We hastened on very quickly in order -to relieve, as soon as possible, the anxiety which we well knew our -friends at Zermatt were enduring. - -"When on the snow ridge between points 3912 metres and 3729 metres we -heard voices far below us on the west, and soon saw what we knew -afterwards to be Mr Aitkin, Imboden, and a porter. They had abandoned -their intention of climbing the Dent Blanche 'on account of bad -weather.' Indeed, Miss Richardson, who had spent the night at the -Stockje, was told by Imboden that 'in such weather it would be -impossible, and probably would remain so for a day or two; therefore, -they might as well go to Ferpecle and do another col the next day.' - -"Seeing that the party were above the route to Ferpecle, we knew at once -that they were looking for us. Imboden shouted out to us, 'Where do you -come from?' We pointed to the Dent Blanche, and they immediately turned -towards Zermatt, and we only missed them by about five minutes at the -usual breakfast place. - -"Now, as we knew that there was no need for us to hurry, we rested, and -made a most hearty breakfast, as we had left on the rocks a whole -chicken, some ham, bread, plums, and a bottle of white wine. - -"On crossing the glacier to the Wandfluh rocks our axes and ruecksacks -hissed like serpents for a long time, while we saw in the distance the -storm which overtook Mr Macdonald on the Lyskamm that very morning; and -none of us liked the renewal of electric energy, which may well be -believed. A heavy mist also threatened us. Mr Aitkin had a similar -experience to ours. - -"We descended by way of the Wandfluh, and above the Stockje untied the -rope which we had had on for thirty-eight hours; and such is the virtue -of the Alpine knot that we were as firmly tied at the end of this time -as we were when we first put on the rope. - -"On the Zmutt Glacier we bathed our hands repeatedly in the glacier -pools as a safeguard against possible frost-bites with entirely -satisfactory results. On the glacier we were delighted to meet Mr E. T. -Hartley, who welcomed us most warmly, and told us of the anxiety of our -friends; he, however, and one good lady in Zermatt said all the time -that we should return safe and sound again. Just off the glacier we met -three porters provided with blankets and provisions sent by the kind -thoughtfulness of Mr Schuster and Herr Seiler. - -"We rested at the Staffel Alp, where we had some most refreshing tea, -and reached Zermatt in the evening." - - - - -CHAPTER X - -ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE - - -I am indebted to Mr Harold Spender, the author of a fine description of -the accident in 1899 on the Dent Blanche, for permission to reprint the -greater portion of it, and also to the proprietors of _McClure's -Magazine_ and of _The Strand Magazine_, in which publications it first -appeared. The safe return of one of the party is alluded to in _The -Alpine Journal_ as one of the most wonderful escapes in the whole annals -of mountaineering. - -"Mr F. W. Hill, whose narrative in _The Alpine Journal_ necessarily -forms the best evidence as to the incidents, says that it was Glynne -Jones who wanted to climb the Dent Blanche by its western _arete_--a -notably difficult undertaking, and one that has probably only twice been -achieved. - -"Glynne Jones had discussed the possibilities of the undertaking with -his own guide, Elias Furrer, of Stalden, and they had come to the -conclusion that the conditions were never likely to be more favourable -than in this August of 1899. Glynne Jones, therefore, asked Mr Hill to -accompany them, and to bring along with him his own guide, Jean -Vuignier, of Evolena. Both guides knew their climbers very well; for -Furrer had been with Glynne Jones on and off for five years, and -Vuignier had climbed at Zermatt with Hill the year before. But Mr Hill, -who had promised to take his wife to Zermatt over the Col d'Herens, -refused to go. Glynne Jones accordingly secured a second guide in -Clemens Zurbriggen, of Saas-Fee, a young member of a great climbing -clan. Vuignier, however, was so disappointed at his employer's refusal, -that Mr Hill, finding that his wife made no objection, finally consented -to join the party. Thus, with the addition of Mr Hill and his guide, the -expedition numbered five members. They left Arolla on Sunday morning, -27th August, with a porter carrying blankets. They intended to sleep on -the rocks below the _arete_. Arriving at the Bricolla chalets, a few -shepherds' huts high up the mountain, at four in the afternoon, they -changed their minds, sent the blankets down to Arolla, and slept in the -huts. - -"They started at three o'clock in the morning in two parties, the first -consisting of Furrer, Zurbriggen, and Jones, roped in that order, and -the second of Vuignier and Hill. They crossed the glacier and reached -the ridge in good time. 'It was soon very evident,' says Mr Hill in his -narrative, 'that the climbing was going to be difficult, as the rocks -were steep slabs, broken and easy occasionally, but, on the whole, far -too smooth.' Rock-climbers do not particularly care how steep a rock may -be so long as it is broken up into fissures which will give hold to the -feet and hands. In the steepest mountains of the Dolomite region, for -instance, the rocks are thus broken, and therefore mountains can be -climbed easily which, from their bases, look absolutely inaccessible. - -"As they progressed up and along the ridge the climbing became more and -more difficult. They had to go slowly and with extreme caution, and -often they were in doubt as to the best way to proceed. Sometimes, -indeed, there seemed no possible route. In these places Furrer, who -seems to have been accepted as the leader of the party, would detach -himself from the rope and go forward to find a passage. - -"On entering upon this part of the climb the two parties had joined -ropes, and were now advancing as one, and roped in this order--Furrer, -Zurbriggen, Glynne Jones, Vuignier, and Hill. - -"It is evident that between nine o'clock and ten climbing had become -exceedingly arduous. 'In two or three places,' says Mr Hill, 'the only -possible way was over an overhanging rock up which the leader had to be -pushed and the others helped from above and below.' This gives us a -graphic picture of the nature of the climb. Nothing is more fatiguing -than to climb over a rock which is in the least degree overhanging. Mr -Hill tells me that Furrer showed him his finger-tips at -breakfast-time--9 A.M.--and that they were severely cut. - -"Yet no one must imagine for an instant that the party was in the least -degree puzzled or vexed. There is nothing so exhilarating as the -conflict with danger, and it generally happens in climbing a mountain -that the party is merriest at the most difficult places. Mr Hill, -indeed, tells us that they were in the 'highest spirits.' 'Climbing -carefully,' he says, 'but in the highest spirits, we made good progress, -for at ten o'clock it was agreed we were within an hour of the summit.' -It was at this point and time that the accident occurred. - -"They had been forced below the ridge by the difficulty of the rocks, -and had come to a place where their obvious route lay up a narrow gully, -or sloping chimney. On an ordinary day it is possible that they would -have found no difficulty in going forward, but a few days before there -had been rain, and probably snow, on these high rock summits. At any -rate, the rocks were 'glazed'; covered, that is, with a film of ice, -probably snow melted and re-frozen, just sufficiently thick to adhere, -and sufficiently slippery to make the fingers 'slither' over the rocks. -If the climber cannot clear away the ice with his ice-axe, he must go -round another way, and if the rocks are steep the first course becomes -obviously impossible. That was the condition of affairs at ten o'clock -on the morning of 28th August 1899. - -"In a party of five roped together, with 30 feet of rope between each -member, the amount of space covered by the party will obviously be 40 -yards; and it frequently happens that those who are roped last cannot -see the leaders. Mr Hill, as we have seen, was roped last, and by the -time he reached the level of the other climbers Furrer had already -turned away from the gully and was attempting to climb to the ridge by -another route. To the left of the gully in front of them was a vertical -rock face stretching for about 30 feet. Beyond this was a smooth-looking -buttress some 10 feet high, by climbing which the party could regain the -ridge. When Hill came up with the rest, Furrer was already attempting to -climb this buttress. - -"But the buttress was quite smooth, and Furrer was at a loss to find a -hold. Unable to support himself, he called to Zurbriggen to place an axe -under his feet for him to stand on. In this way he might be able to -reach with his hands to the top of the buttress. There was nothing -unusual in this method of procedure. In climbing difficult rocks, when -the hand-holds are far up, it is frequently the custom to help the -climber by placing an ice-axe under his feet. But in this case Furrer -discovered that he could not climb the buttress with the help of -Zurbriggen alone, and he would probably have done more wisely if he had -abandoned the attempt. But, instead of that, he called Glynne Jones to -help Zurbriggen in holding him up. - -"'Apparently,' says Mr Hill, 'he did not feel safe, for he turned his -head and spoke to Glynne Jones, who then went to hold the axe steady.' - -"From Mr Hill's own explanations the situation was as follows: The -leading climber, Furrer, was grasping the rock face, standing on an -ice-axe held vertically by Zurbriggen and Glynne Jones. These two were -forced, in order to hold the ice-axe securely, to crouch down with their -faces to the ground, and were, therefore oblivious of what was going on -above them. But the important point is, that their four hands were -occupied in holding the ice-axe, and that as they were standing on a -narrow ledge, with a very sharp slope immediately below, these two men -were in a helpless position. They were unready to stand a shock. Thus, -at the critical moment, out of a party of five climbers, three had -virtually cast everything on a single die! - -"Mr Hill, standing level with the rest of the party, could see quite -clearly what was happening. He was about 60 feet distant from them, the -guide Vuignier being roped between them at an equal distance of some 30 -feet from each. Furrer could now stand upright on the axe, which was -firmly held by four strong hands, and could reach with his own fingers -to the top of the buttress. It was a perilous moment. It is the rule -with skilled climbers that you should never leave your foot-hold until -you have secured your hand-hold. The natural issue would have been that -Furrer, finding it impossible to secure on the smooth rock a steady grip -with his hands, should have declined to trust himself. But the science -of the study is one thing and the art of the mountain another. There are -moments when a man does not know whether he has secured a steady grip or -an unsteady, and the question can only be answered by making the -attempt. If the party blundered at all, it was in allowing the second -and third men to be so completely occupied with holding the axe that -there was no reserve of power to hold up Furrer in case of a slip. But -it is easy to speak after the event. - -"What Hill now saw was this: He saw Furrer reach his hands to the top of -the buttress, take a grip, and attempt to pull himself up. But his feet -never left the ice-axe beneath, for in the process of gripping his hands -slipped. And then, as Hill looked, Furrer's body slowly fell back. It -seemed, he has told himself, to take quite a long time falling. Furrer -fell backwards, right on to the two oblivious men beneath him, causing -them to collapse instantly, knocking them off their standing-place, and -carrying them with him in his fall from the ridge. 'All three,' says Mr -Hill in his narrative, 'fell together.' Instinctively he turned to the -wall to get a better hold of the rock, and therefore did not see the -next incident in the fatal sequence. Vuignier, as we have seen, was -standing 30 feet from the first three, and the weight of three human -bodies swinging at the end of the rope must have come directly on him. -He was, apparently, taken by surprise, and immediately pulled off the -rock. Hill heard that terrible sound--the scuffle and rattle of stones -that meant the dragging of a helpless human being into space--and he -knew, or thought he knew, that his own turn would come in a moment; but -as he clung there to the rock, waiting for the inevitable end, there was -a pause. Nothing happened. - -"After a few endless seconds of time he faced round and found himself -alone. Looking down, he saw his four companions sliding down the -precipitous slopes at a terrific rate, without a cry, but with arms -outstretched, helplessly falling into the abyss. Between him and them, -and from his waist, there hung 30 feet of rope swinging slowly to and -fro. The faithful Vuignier had probably fastened the rope securely -round some point of rock to protect his master. The full weight of the -four bodies had probably expended itself on the rock-fastening of the -rope, and thereby saved the life of the fifth climber. Dazed and -astonished to find himself still in the land of the living, Mr Hill -stood for some time watching his comrades fall, until, sickened, he -turned away to face his own situation. - -"It was not very promising. He was without food, drink, or warm -clothing. No man alone could climb down by the ridge up which those five -experts had climbed in the morning. And in front lay a difficulty which -had already destroyed his friends when attempting to overcome it by -mutual help. It seemed impossible. - -"Perhaps it was fortunate that Hill was not only a mathematician, but a -man of characteristic mathematical temperament--cool, unemotional, -long-headed. Most men in his situation would have gone mad. Some would -have waited right there till starvation overcame them or a rescue party -arrived. But there was little or no chance of a rescue party, and Mr -Hill was certainly not the man to wait for starvation. It was a curious -irony that probably at that very moment there was a party on the summit -of the Dent Blanche. Mr Hill's party had seen two climbers on the south -_arete_ at half-past eight o'clock, and again about an hour later. At -this moment they were probably at the summit. But Mr Hill had no means -of communicating with them, and the hour's climb which lay between him -and them might as well have been the length of Europe. An hour later he -himself heard a faint 'cooey' (the party were probably on the way -down)--a jovial, generous hail from men unconscious of any catastrophe. - -"Mr Hill's immediate task was to regain the ridge and reach the summit. -At the moment of the accident he was some 60 feet from the fatal -buttress, and now wisely made no attempt to get near it. Instead, he -moved to circumvent the glazed gully from its other side. After long and -tedious efforts, lasting for a period of time which he cannot now even -approximately estimate, he succeeded in his flanking movement, and -finally, with great labour and peril, climbed back to the ridge by a -slope of frozen snow and ice broken with rocks. It would be difficult to -imagine anything more terrible than this lonely climb over ice-covered -rocks, the painful cutting of steps up an almost precipitous wall, with -a precipice many thousand feet deep at his back, down which the smallest -slip would send him to certain death. But at last he regained the ridge, -and the difficulties of ascent were now mainly overcome. In about -another hour he found himself on the summit--a solitary, mournful -victor. It was there he heard the shout from the other party. But he -could not see them or make them hear, and so he made his way down with -all reasonable speed, hoping to overtake them. - -"Hill had climbed the Dent Blanche in the previous year with a guided -party, and therefore, to some extent, knew the route. Without much -difficulty he was able to follow the ridge as far as possible down to -the lowest _gendarme_, a pile of rock with a deep, narrow fissure. Then -a sudden mist hid everything from view, and it was impossible to see the -way off the _gendarme_. He tried several routes downward in the mist, -but at last wisely resolved to wait till it lifted. While he was -searching, a snow-storm and a cold wind came up. 'They drove me,' says -Mr Hill in his plain way, 'to seek shelter in the lee of the rocks.' -There he tied himself with his rope, and, to avoid the danger of falling -off in a moment of sleep, still further secured himself by an ice-axe -wedged firmly in front of him--poor protections to a man absolutely -without food or wraps, clinging to the side of an abyss in the searching -cold and stormy darkness of mist and snow, wedged under the eave of an -overhanging rock, and only able to sit in a cramped posture. But Mr Hill -was no ordinary man. If the Fates were asking for his life he determined -to sell it dearly, sustained in his resolve by the thought of that -waiting wife, unconscious of ill, below in Zermatt. - -"It must have been, at this time, past mid-day on Monday, 28th August. - -"The storm lasted all that Monday, and Monday night, and Tuesday -morning. All through those dreadful hours of darkness Hill sat in the -cleft of rock, sleeping most of the time, but always half-frozen with -the cold, and whenever he awoke obliged to beat himself to regain his -natural warmth. Happily, he was well protected against the falling snow -by the eave of the overhanging rock, but it covered his knees and boots, -causing him intense cold in the feet. - -"At last, at mid-day on Tuesday, the mist cleared and the sun shone -again in a sky of perfect blue. He could now resume his descent. To -climb over snow-covered rocks in a roped party is difficult enough, but -to do it alone is to risk your life many times over. But there was no -alternative. - -"At last the rocks ended and the worst of the peril was over. He had -reached the snow _arete_, where not even the heavy fall of snow had -quite obliterated the tracks of those who had gone in front of him. -These helped him to find his way. But the steps had mostly to be recut, -and that must have been very fatiguing after his previous experiences. -The next difficulty was the lower part of the Wandfluh, a bold wall of -rock which leads down first to the Schonbuhl and then to the Zmutt -Glaciers, and which, at its base, ends in a steep precipice that can be -descended only by one gully. Here Mr Hill's memory failed him. He could -not remember which was the right gully. This was, perhaps, the most -terrible trial of all. If he could find that gully his task was almost -accomplished. The rest of the descent to Zermatt is little more than a -walk. But hour after hour passed; he descended gully after gully, only -to find himself blocked below by one precipice after another. In one of -these attempts he dropped his ice-axe, without which he could never hope -to return alive. Unless he could recover it he was a dead man. But, no, -it was not quite lost. There it lay, far below him, on the rocks. Slowly -and painfully he descended the gully to fetch it. At last he reached it. -In this quest he wasted a whole hour! - -"At last he discovered a series of chimneys to the extreme right of the -Wandfluh and leading down to the glacier. Letting himself down these -steep chimneys, he found himself at last, on Tuesday evening, on the -high moraines of the Zmutt Glacier. He must have reached the glacier -about six o'clock, but he had only the sun to reckon by. Here the steep -descent ends, and there is but a stony walk of two and a half hours down -the glacier by a path which leads to the Staffel Alp Inn. The sun set -while he was still on the moraine, and he has a vivid recollection of -seeing the red 'Alpengluh' on Monte Rosa. But as the darkness grew it -became more and more difficult to keep to the path. - -"Here at last his marvellous strength began to fail him. He had no -snow-glasses, and his eyes were suffering from the prolonged glare of -the snow. A sort of waking trance fell on him. As he stumbled forward, -over the stones of that horrible moraine, he imagined that his -companions were still alive and with him. He kept calling to them to -'come along.' 'It is getting late, you fellows,' he shouted; 'come -along.' - -"At last he was brought up by a great rock. In the darkness he had -wandered below the path. The rock entirely barred his way. He had a -vague illusion that it was a chalet, and wandered round it searching for -a door. At last he settled down by it in a semi-conscious condition. -Then he must have fallen asleep, probably about ten o'clock. The sleep -lasted about twelve hours, and was better than meat and drink. To most -men it would have ended in death. - -"When he woke up at ten o'clock on Wednesday morning, in broad daylight, -he soon saw that he had been sleeping quite near the path. A few -minutes' scramble brought him back to it, and he soon came to a little -wooden refreshment-house, about an hour below the Staffel Inn, which he -had passed in the darkness. He went up to the woman at the hut and asked -for some beer! He had only fifty centimes in his pocket; one of his dead -companions had held the purse. He volunteered no complaint; but the -woman was sympathetic, and soon found out whence he came. She then gave -him a little milk and some dry bread--all she had. After a short rest he -resumed his way to Zermatt, distant about half an hour, and reached the -village at 11.30. As he was walking down the main street past the church -he met his wife. - -"He told her simply what had happened. Then he had lunch. 'I was now -ravenous,' he says, 'and devoured a beefsteak, with the help of a glass -of whisky and soda, and a bottle of champagne.' Within an hour or two he -was entirely recovered." - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -A STIRRING DAY ON THE ROSETTA - - -Amongst the many rock scrambles in the neighbourhood of St Martino in -the Dolomites of Tyrol, the Rosetta when ascended by the western face -can be counted on to awaken an interest in the most stolid of climbers. -I am indebted to the courtesy of a girl friend for the loan of her -mountaineering diary, and permission to make extracts from its very -interesting contents, of which her account of an ascent of the Rosetta -will, I feel sure, be read with keen enjoyment by climbers and -non-climbers alike. That a young English girl on her first visit to the -mountains should carry out with such success so difficult an expedition, -is much to the credit of both herself and her guides. Her brother -accompanied her, and the climb took place on 10th August 1898. - -[Illustration: AMBROSE SUPERSAX. (P. 209.)] - -[Illustration: FROM THE ROSETTA. By Signor Vittorio Sella. - -_To face_ p. 182.] - -"A cautious bang at my door, a faint 'Si!' from me, and steps departing. -Then I lit a candle and dressed. But it was the critical moment when the -dawn comes quickly, and I blew it out in five minutes and watched the -blue light brighten on the dusky outlines of the white church and -houses. The Cimone was growing pink as I got on my heavy hob-nailed -boots, and, taking my tennis shoes also, I tramped softly down to -breakfast. Bettega, our leading guide, was there, with his cordial smile -and hand-shake, and G---- and Tavernaro soon appeared. We were off -before long, taking with us a porter in addition to the two guides, and -G---- and I let Bettega see plainly that we thought this a little -superfluous, but later on we were glad we had him. I must admit that I -never met such good-natured and thoughtful guides, nor such excellent -ones. After passing through forest, we had to ascend up steep shingle, -and as this steepened I reeled a little, my feet being not as yet well -used to this sort of work. Bettega, however, put his hand behind him, I -crooked my fingers into his, and that gave me all the balance I needed. -Finally we crossed some snow, and sitting on a little platform under a -towering rock, we perceived that the way we were to ascend the Rosetta -would be a very different experience to the climb by the ordinary route. - -"At this point I took off my skirt, and removed my boots, putting on -tennis shoes instead. The rubber soles of these are far safer than nails -on the smooth and slabby Dolomite rock. - -"The guides jabbered between themselves; Bettega smiled sublimely and -looked utterly in his element, but Tavernaro seemed rather subdued; he -is under the moral influence of Bettega, for though Tavernaro may have -more education and cleverness he rounds upon his comrade at times owing -to his excitable disposition. But on the mountains he slinks at -Bettega's elbow, as the two roll along with the peculiar mountaineer's -bending stride on level ground, and Tavernaro never asks a price or -arranges for an excursion without consulting Bettega. But, on the other -hand, Bettega lives in fear of Tavernaro's lively tongue, so it is about -balanced! - -"Having finished our meal, we set off. I was roped to Bettega, who led. -After about five minutes Bettega, who till then had held in his hand all -the rope we were not using, dropped it in a big coil, and told me to -'Remain firm' where I was. He then climbed upwards for a few minutes, -but I did not watch, for though my head had not swum at all as yet, I -wasn't too sure of it, and the rock face was very sheer, so I neither -looked up nor down, but sat with my cheek against the rock and held on! -But all went merrily. Tavernaro occasionally placed one of my feet, -which was placeless, and we got up the first _camino_, or rocky chimney, -fairly well. 'Wait a moment, signorina,' said Bettega, and then he -disappeared overhead--literally disappeared, for he was quite hidden -when he cried cheerily, 'Come! Come!' I got up, and found a very small -_posto_ or tiny platform on which to wait, with a disagreeably obtrusive -precipice below it. Above was a second _camino_, which looked smooth and -gloomy. I leant affectionately against the rock, pondering deeply of -anything except 'empty space.' 'The signorina is all right there?' -enquired Bettega solicitously. 'To be sure she is!' cried Tavernaro -gaily, as he leant over me against the rock. Then up clomb Bettega, and -G---- advanced slowly and surely from below. As the minutes went by I -shut my eyes, and was gloomily thankful when the summons came from -above. Looking up, I could just see Bettega's bushy black head and -flannel cap couched amongst the rocks. Fifteen feet up the _camino_ a -big stone was wedged, and between this and the back of the chimney one -had to pass, emerging above at the top of the wall. G---- having now -reached the _posto_, I began to go up, with Tavernaro closely following -me. Bit by bit I climbed; a grab, a hoist, a foot tucked into a crevice -on either side of the _camino_, a long reach with my arm, a steady -pull--and likewise, it must be confessed, a pull from the rope!--and so -up, up again. The rock wall was abominably straight and holeless. Under -the stone, with the three members placed on ledges or in cracks, I in -vain sought a point of rest for the fourth before hauling. 'Good -heavens!' I exclaimed in melancholy undertones, and a gurgling chuckle -from below showed that Tavernaro sympathised. 'Here you are, signorina,' -he said, giving me his shoulder for a momentary foot-hold. With that -instant of support I swung up on to the stone, and so to the next _posto -sicuro_, or safe spot. G---- came up without help, but he assured me -that it was a really hard place. - -"Of course I don't pretend I did it all myself. Quite half a dozen times -I doubt if I could have got up without material aid from the cord, or -from Tavernaro below. Once, in a _camino_, the latter gave me a butt -with his head, which made me reflect how great a man was lost to the -game of football, while the way he placed my feet was a great help to -one who, as a novice, had not yet learnt to study the foot-holds in -advance. - -"We now reached a place where a third _camino_ ran up above us, while an -awkward traverse led to another on the right. Here I heard Tavernaro -remonstrate with Bettega on the route he had taken, but the latter said, -very decidedly, that he intended going straight on, so Tavernaro, as -usual, subsided, but became very quiet. He had never before ascended -this _camino_, which was a discovery of Bettega's, but no doubt he had -heard about it. - -"We began to climb it, Bettega first and I following him closely. It -had rained heavily the previous day, and all the loose stones had been -washed to the very edge of the ledges. Not having been cautioned about -these, and intent on getting up, I let several fall. 'Hi! Gently with -the stones!' gasped Tavernaro from below, and when he reached my side I -saw that his knuckles were bleeding. 'Have you hurt yourself?' I -enquired. 'No, it is you who have done it, and you've twice nearly -killed your brother,' he replied, but G---- told me to tell Tavernaro he -had sent down a much worse stone than any of mine, whereat he looked -resigned, and remarked, 'Oh, yes, these things can't always be avoided.' - -"'Stay quietly where you are, and wait till I tell you to come on,' -Bettega now remarked. I crouched in a very narrow chimney for a little, -watched not--a hundred pities--and heard Bettega go up beyond. Not more -than three minutes elapsed before his deep voice sang out: 'Now, come -up!' and though I replied: 'I'm coming,' I wondered how I was to do it. -We were near the top of the chimney. Further up, it became too narrow -for any human form to squeeze into. One had therefore to come out of it -to the right and climb up and over a huge bulging mass of rock about 15 -feet high, which overhung the precipice. This mass of gently bulging -rock was worn smooth by rain and stones. There was no proper foot-hold, -hardly the tiniest crack. _How_ had Bettega managed it? I got up the -cold, damp chimney as far as I could, leant gasping against the rock, -and felt near the end of my courage. Tavernaro was stowed away yards -below, G---- also out of sight, Bettega invisible above. There was just -the cord, pulling me away from the inhospitable rocks, and at my very -heels an abyss of 2000 feet. I made one bold grab on the smooth wall, -but speedily retired to the end of the _camino_, and feebly yelled, -'Wait! Ah, I can't do it!' 'All right! Catch hold of this cord!' came -the answer, and a loop of rope was let slowly down. I seized it, -contrived to get one foot on to a tiny, weeny point, came out of the -chimney, and heard Bettega call, 'To the right, signorina!' 'To the -right; that's all very well!' I muttered fiercely, and felt my hand -slipping; my foot gave, my fingers ran down the rope, the cord round my -waist tightened, I pushed my arm through the loop of the free rope with -one last effort, and then finding no support of any kind for my feet, -was ignominiously pulled, kicking, up the precipice by Bettega, who, -firmly fixed with both feet against rocks, hauled me up most joyously -hand over hand. - -"'But, Michele, how did _you_ manage to get up?' I panted, as I sank on -a ledge, and gazed in awed admiration at him. 'Well, not like that, -signorina!' he said, with his honest laugh; 'I really came up by -pressure. There are no hand-grips, so you have to do without.' 'It's -marvellous! It's stupendous!' murmured I, really awed by the man's -power. Then we both listened for Tavernaro's coming, and a proper little -comedy, for us two at least, ensued. Of course one could see nothing, -the rock bulged too much, but one could hear Tavernaro's voice some 20 -feet below, as he groped about, swearing softly. Five minutes went by -and all was still, so Bettega began haranguing him. 'More to the right, -Tony; you must come out, don't go too high in the chimney!' Then--'Look -out, Tony, I'll send you the rope-end!' But an ominous '_No_,' quickly -answered this proposal. A guide's honour is very sensitive on this -point. Another three or four minutes passed. 'How is Tavernaro getting -on?' I whispered, and Bettega replied, smiling broadly, 'He wishes to -try.' - -"Some gasps from the direction of the chimney were now heard, and -Bettega again expostulated gently. 'Look here, Tony, we are old friends; -take the rope!' '_No_' in gloomy defiance. 'Oh, if we were alone it -would be different, but we must not keep the rest of the party waiting, -and the signorina may take cold.' This was all in _patois_, but I caught -some of it, and here struck in quickly, 'Oh, not at all!' Bettega looked -surprised, and resumed more energetically his exhortations to Tony to -pocket his pride and accept the loop of rope. At last Tony, who must -have been within 10 feet of the top and so at the worst spot, suddenly -jerked on to the proffered cord, and was up the next moment, hatless, -with huge beads of sweat on his forehead and his black hair as straight -as matches. There was a great rent in the side of one of his hands, -which bled profusely. What struck me most, however, was the expression -of suffering and shaken confidence on his face. Tavernaro ranks only -second to Bettega and Zecchini, and was asked to go to the Caucasus and -other distant mountains. He just stumbled to a safe spot, wrung his left -hand, and panted out, 'Jesu Maria! it was cruel!' I fear that Bettega's -smile was more triumphant than sympathetic. Nevertheless, he enquired -kindly for Tavernaro's hand, but for fully two minutes the latter's -loquaciousness was lost. The look of anguish on his face meant, I think, -that he had seen death pretty near to him. He told us that he went far -too much into the crack on the left, and had remained sticking in it -till his hands got so cold he feared he would lose his grip. If he had, -he was lost, and probably G---- also, so he had actually held on with his -head and left his cap jammed in the crack. I called to G---- to hook the -rope over a point of rock in case Tavernaro fell, and this he had done, -but even so the frightful jerk might have torn him down, and in any -case Tavernaro must have been either killed or frightfully hurt, as he -had, I should think, about 30 feet of rope out. - -"While I was in the throes of the difficult part, Papa's cap fell off my -head, but Tavernaro caught it and brought it up. He was in an awful -state of mind about his own cap, which had his guide's badge, etc., on -it, and begged me to call down to my brother about it. I did so, but -G---- replied several times with some asperity that he had enough to do -to get himself up. 'Why can't he bring it up in his mouth?' cried -Tavernaro excitedly, and, in the end, G---- brought it in his belt. - -"My opinion is that both G---- and Tavernaro ran a great risk, and that -Tavernaro was fully aware of it, and, for a few minutes after, was not a -little shaken. - -"After half an hour at this notable spot Bettega resumed the ascent. 'I -hope we shall have nothing more so difficult,' I said eagerly, and -Bettega replied soothingly that it became 'much less arduous,' but the -chimney we were now in was gloomy and slippery, at best very sheer. The -guides had resumed their coats, which they had taken off for the bad -bit. At the end of the chimney we came to a high overhanging wall, at -the foot of which Tavernaro and I reposed, while Bettega climbed over it -and disappeared. 'Come!' and I rose wearily. Bettega kept that cord -very tight on me, and it certainly, as Tavernaro afterwards said, -inclined to pull me to the right, away from the best holds, for the wall -was comparatively easy, though perpendicular, and I ought not to have -swung out quite free from it! But that is what I did. As I rose from the -second grip with the right hand, my muscles suddenly relaxed, I lost -hold, gave a sigh to signify 'It's no good!' and swung clear out, -dangling over 2000 feet of precipice on a single cord which nearly cut -me in two. G---- and Tavernaro were much excited below, suddenly seeing -me appear hurtling overhead. Of course, in a moment, I swung in again, -grabbed afresh, and with terrific tightening of the rope from Bettega, -got up in no time. As I swung in the air, I remember G----, in a -curiously calm voice, asking, 'Are you all right?' and Tavernaro crying, -'Don't be afraid, signorina, it's all right!' - -"Five minutes later we left the huge iron walls of rock, and emerged -suddenly on to the flat. Here one realised what breadth and width meant, -as opposed to height and profundity. In two seconds Bettega and I romped -to the top, where the cairn of stones marking the highest point rose, -and shaking hands heartily I gasped with intense feeling, 'O Michele, -how grateful I am to you! Twice to-day I owe you my life!' a debt he -utterly disclaimed, remarking that whatever he had done was merely in -the day's work, and that on him rested the responsibility of bringing us -up that way; as of course it did. Our porter was waiting for us on the -summit, and we sat down there, while Bettega and Tavernaro, still -looking impressed, knelt attentively to take off our light shoes and put -on our nailed boots instead." - -The party descended by the ordinary route, a pleasant change after all -the difficult work they had accomplished during the upward climb. - -The foregoing account gives what is rare amongst the descriptions -beginners usually furnish of anything particularly hard they may have -undertaken, for the writer has obviously jotted down, within a few hours -of her return, an exact impression of how things struck her during the -day. It is refreshing to find some one who admits that at certain points -her courage nearly gave out, and at others that her guide had to assist -her with the rope, for we know that while the very best climbers have -had to train their nerves and muscles before they became what they are, -some of the very worst are most ready to exclaim that they never felt -fear or accepted assistance, and that a certain mountain up which they -were heaved like sacks of corn and let down like buckets in a well is "a -perfect swindle; any fool could go up it!" Unluckily, every fool does, -and each one prepares the way for an appallingly increasing death-roll. - -The ascent of the Rosetta by the western face must not be condemned as -an imprudent expedition on the occasion just mentioned. True, there was -a novice in the party, but she was the only inexperienced member of it. -They had ample guiding power, they were properly equipped, and they had -good weather. Tavernaro had an offer of help at the critical moment, and -availed himself of it when he saw there was real danger. It will be -noticed that the four climbers were on two separate ropes. This is usual -in the Dolomites, but the majority of experienced mountaineers condemn -the practice even on rocks, while on snow it is positive madness. It was -owing to this, that, as related in the foregoing narrative, the lady's -brother and Tavernaro ran a greater risk than was at all necessary. - -[Illustration: A CLIMBING PARTY STARTING FROM ZERMATT FOR THE HUT.] - -[Illustration: THE TRIFT HOTEL.] - -[Illustration: THE GANDEGG HUT, NEAR ZERMATT.] - -[Illustration: THE ZINAL ROTHHORN (to the right) FROM THE TRIFT VALLEY. - -_To face p. 195._] - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -THE ZINAL ROTHHORN TWICE IN ONE DAY - - -Ignorance of what the future has in store is often not a bad thing. Had -I realised that at the hour when we ought to have been at Zinal we -should be sitting--and for the second time in one day--on the top of the -Rothhorn, we should hardly have set out in so light-hearted a fashion -from the little inn in the Trift Valley, above Zermatt, at 4 A.M. on -14th September 1895. - -The party consisted of my two guides, Joseph and Roman Imboden, father -and son, and myself, and our idea was to cross the fine peak of the -Rothhorn, 13,855 feet high, from Zermatt to Zinal. I had been up that -mountain before, and so, on many previous occasions, had Imboden, but, -oddly enough, he had never been down the other side. Roman, however, had -once or twice made the traverse, and, in any case, we knew quite enough -about the route from hearsay to feel sure we could hit it off even -without Roman's experience. - -Some fresh snow had fallen a few days previously, and the slabby part -of the Rothhorn on the north side was unpleasantly white, besides which -there was a strong and bitterly cold wind. We pretty well abandoned all -idea of getting down on the other side when we saw how unfavourably -things were turning out, and though I felt greatly disappointed I never -have and never would urge a guide in whom I have confidence to undertake -what he considers imprudent. We left the matter open till the last -minute, however, and took both the knapsacks to the top, where we -arrived at 9.15. - -Warming ourselves in a sunny and sheltered corner of the by no means -inhospitable summit, we had some food and a pleasant rest. I cannot say -if the meal and the cheering effects of the sunshine made things look -different, but it is a fact that after, perhaps, an hour's halt, Imboden -shouldered his knapsack and remarked to me, "Come along, ma'am, as far -as the end of the ridge; we will just have a look." Hope awakened in me, -and scrambling to my feet I followed him. The wind was certainly high; I -had difficulty even on those easy rocks in keeping my footing; how, I -wondered, should we manage when the real climbing began? I had read of -an _arete_ of rock, little broader than one of the blunt knives we had -used at breakfast, and the idea of passing along it with a shrieking -gale trying to tear us from our perch was not alluring. Presently we -reached the spot where one quits the gentle slope and comparatively -broad ridge, and embarks on the profile of a slender and precipitous -face of rock, with nearly vertical forehead and small and infrequent -cracks for hands and feet. We were going to do more than look at it, -apparently; we were about to descend it, for without any further remark -Imboden began to get ready, letting Roman pass ahead. Taking hold of the -rope between his son and himself he told me to stand aside while he -gradually paid it out as Roman went down. The first yard or two -consisted of slabs, set at a high angle. Then the ridge abruptly curved -over and one saw nothing but air till the eye rested on the glacier -thousands of feet below. In a few minutes Roman had disappeared, and the -steady paying out of the rope alone indicated that he was climbing -downwards. After a time he reached almost the end of his tether of about -30 feet--for we were on a very long rope--and his father called out, -"Rope up!" "Let the lady come to the edge and give me a little more," -came a voice from far down. Putting the final loop into my hand and -bidding me sit down, Imboden held me hard by the cord behind until the -tautness of the piece between Roman and me showed it was time to be -moving. I then advanced very cautiously to what seemed like the edge of -the world. Turning round with my face to the rock I had my first glance -below. Far down was the top of Roman's hat, and as he saw the advancing -soles of my boots he grinned with appreciation, feeling that now we -really were embarked on the enterprise. "There's a good place down here, -ma'am, come along!" he called up, with one toe on a ledge 3 inches wide, -two fingers thrust into a crack, and the rope held out of his way by -being put, the remark concluded, between his teeth. I had no doubt it -was a nice place when one got there, but meanwhile I had to make the -best use I could of my eyes to find a suitable assortment of hand-and -foot-holes. Soon I, too, was clinging to the face of the precipice, and -Imboden was left above out of sight and before long almost out of -hearing. The wind here was far less trying as we were sheltered by the -topmost pinnacle of the mountain. To me the feeling of danger from a -gale on a rock peak is due even more to the difficulty of hearing what -one's companions are saying than to the risk of one's balance being -upset. It is extremely disconcerting, when a climber, descending steep -rocks and anxious to make a long but perhaps an easy step downwards to -good foot-hold, calls for more rope, and is promptly swung clear out -into space by an invisible guide above, who has misunderstood his -orders. When a party is accustomed to work together, this sort of thing -seldom happens, still it makes all the difference in the pleasure of -negotiating difficult rocks if the air is calm. - -Our only trouble now was owing to the fresh snow, but this had partially -consolidated, and we got down steadily and safely, gradually leaving -behind the cold wind which whistled amongst the crags above. - -It was early in the day, and we went slowly, stopping once or twice to -photograph where warm and sheltered resting-places of comfortable -proportions tempted us to linger. The rocky knife edge was unpleasantly -sharp for the arms bent over it, but useful ledges down the side helped -to distribute the weight and amuse and occupy the mind. When finally we -reached the end of the rocks, and had nothing but snow between us and -the Mountet Hut, we considered ourselves as good as there, and made a -long halt on the last stones. - -We were wrong, however. "My boy, I will go ahead now," remarked Imboden, -stepping off into the snow. He went a few paces, and then looked first -all round him and lastly at us. "_Blue ice!_" he muttered, with intense -disgust. "Blue ice right down to the bottom!" We shrugged our shoulders; -Imboden was ahead doing the work; we could afford to be philosophical. I -should not like to say how many strokes of the axe each step required, -but the slope was steep, a slip could not be risked, and Imboden hewed -out great foot-holds in the slippery wall. After this had gone on for -some time he paused. "Upon my word," remarked he, "it will take us the -rest of the day to get down at this rate! I shall try another way." So -we turned and remounted the slope, and sitting down once more on the -stones, Imboden traced out a possible route down the face of the -mountain, bearing diagonally across it. It looked dullish; besides, -thought I, after all, we don't particularly want to go to Zinal. Roman -put into words what, I think, sprung simultaneously into both our minds. -"Let us go back to Zermatt over the top of the Rothhorn again!" "Yes, -let us do that!" I exclaimed. Imboden gazed from one to the other of us -in amazement. "Go back over the top of the Rothhorn?" he repeated. "Why, -we should simply be out all night!" Roman didn't answer, but his eyes -wandered persistently up the _arete_. His father now began to calculate, -and by some strange process of arithmetic he came to the conclusion that -if we hurried very much it was just possible that we might get off the -difficult part of the peak before night overtook us. Still, he was far -from reconciled to the idea, while every moment Roman and I liked it -better. Imboden saw how keen we were, and presently exclaimed: "Well, -I'll go if you both want it, but we must be quick; if we spend the night -on the top of the Rothhorn and a storm comes on, we may simply lose our -lives!" There was no need however, to tell Roman to be quick. He was -told off to lead, and I followed, with Imboden last. The memory of that -ascent has remained in my mind as a confused dream. Every scrap of my -attention was given to holding on and pulling myself upwards, never -pausing, except in the very worst places, to see what either of the -guides was doing, and, with every foot-and hand-hold fresh in my memory, -I was full of a delightful sense of security which muscles in -first-class condition and complete absence of any sensation of fatigue -fully justified. We rose at an incredible pace, and after an hour and -twenty-five minutes of splendid exercise, we threw ourselves once more -on the flat little top of the Rothhorn. We had now only the descent by -the ordinary route between us and Zermatt, and this seemed a small -matter compared to what we had accomplished that day. - -We did not remain long on the summit, and the first part of the descent -was quickly ended. We had now reached that point on the mountain where -it is necessary to leave the ridge and go down for some distance on the -precipitous north face. This bit of the climb, always requiring great -care on account of the smoothness and steepness of the rock, was on this -occasion particularly difficult because of the powdery snow which -covered everything, and the bitterly cold wind to which here, and, -luckily for us, here only, we were exposed. The associations of these -slabs are not of a nature to reassure the timid climber. Many years ago, -in fact on the very first occasion when the Rothhorn was ascended from -the Zermatt side, a startling incident took place near this spot. The -party consisted of Messrs Dent and Passingham, with Alexander Burgener, -Ferdinand Imseng, and Franz Andermatten as guides, and they were -descending the mountain when the exciting occurrence described by Mr -Dent happened.[7] He has kindly allowed me to reprint his account. - -[Illustration: THE ZINAL ROTHHORN FROM THE BREAKFAST PLACE ON THE -WELLENKUPPE.] - -[Illustration: A STEEP FACE OF ROCK. - -_To face p. 202._] - -[Illustration: THE TOP OF A CHAMONIX AIGUILLE. By Signor Cajrati -Crivelli Mesmer] - -[Illustration: "LEADING STRINGS."] - -"Down the first portion of the steep rock slope we passed with great -caution, some of the blocks of stone being treacherously loose, or only -lightly frozen to the face. We had arrived at the most difficult part of -the whole climb, and at a rock passage which at that time we considered -was the nastiest we had ever encountered. The smooth, almost unbroken -face of the slope scarcely afforded any foot-hold, and our security -almost entirely depended on the rope we had laid down in our ascent. Had -not the rope been in position we should have varied our route, and no -doubt found a line of descent over this part much easier than the one we -actually made for, even without any help from the fixed cord. Imseng was -far below, working his way back to the _arete_, while the rest of the -party were holding on, moving but slowly, with their faces to the -mountain. Suddenly I heard a shout from above; those below glanced up at -once: a large flat slab of rock, that had afforded us good hold in -ascending, but proved now to have been only frozen in to a shallow basin -of ice, had been dislodged by the slightest touch from one of the party -above, and was sliding down straight at us. It seemed an age, though the -stone could not have had to fall more than 10 feet or so, before it -reached us. Just above me it turned its course slightly; Franz, who was -just below, more in its direct line of descent, attempted to stop the -mass, but it ground his hands against the rock and swept by straight at -Imseng. A yell from us hardly awoke him to the danger; the slab slid on -faster and faster, but just as we expected to see our guide swept away, -the rock gave a bound for the first time, and as, with a startled -expression, he flung himself against the rock face, it leapt up, and, -flying by within a few inches of his head, thundered down below. A -moment or two of silence followed, and then a modified cheer from -Imseng, as subdued as that of a 'super' welcoming a theatrical king, -announced his safety, and he looked up at us with a serious expression -on his face. Franz's escape had been a remarkably lucky one, but his -hands were badly cut about and bruised. In fact, it was a near thing for -all of us, and the mere recollection will still call up that odd sort of -thrill a man experiences on suddenly recollecting at 11 P.M. that he -ought to have dined out that evening with some very particular people. -Had not the rock turned its course just before it reached Franz, and -bounded from the face of the mountain over Imseng's head, one or more of -the party must unquestionably have been swept away. The place was rather -an exceptional one, and the rock glided a remarkably long distance -without a bound, but still the incident may serve to show that falling -stones are not a wholly imaginary danger." - -A far more serious occurrence, however, took place on the north side of -the Rothhorn in 1894, involving the loss of a life, the rest of the -party escaping in a miraculous manner. - -I take my account of the disaster from _The Alpine Journal_. - -"On 20th September an accident occurred on the Zinal Rothhorn, in which -Joseph Marie Biner, a well-known Zermatt guide, lost his life. The other -members of the party were Dr Peter Horrocks and Peter Perren, both of -whom are to be congratulated on their very narrow escape. The party had -already effected the ascent of the mountain, and were descending towards -Zermatt. On reaching the well-known _Blatte_ overlooking the Durand -Glacier, the usual precautions were observed. Biner, who was leading, -crossed the awkward slab, and planted himself firmly on the opposite -side. Perren, who was last, was standing behind and holding on to a -fair-sized rock, round which he was paying out the rope; while Dr -Horrocks crossed the slab, and Biner gradually pulled in the slack. -Suddenly, the rock in which Perren placed such confidence came out, and -bounded down the mountain side. Perren slid rapidly down the steep -rocks; Dr Horrocks, who had no foot-hold and very little hand-hold, was -jerked from his position, turning a somersault, and becoming momentarily -stunned from his head striking against the rock. The strain on the rope -was too great for Biner to withstand, and he was dragged down too. The -whole party half tumbled, half slid, down the very steep smooth rocks -for 30 feet or 40 feet, when the rope between Dr Horrocks and Perren -caught behind a projecting rock, and brought them both to a standstill. -Perren found himself landed in a small patch of soft snow some 15 feet -below the rock, which had so fortunately engaged the rope, while Dr -Horrocks, some 7 feet higher up, though at first suspended with his back -to the steep rocks, was very soon able to get more or less foot-hold. -Poor Biner had the extra length of his own rope still to fall, and, when -the strain came, the rope broke, according to one account, half-way -between him and Dr Horrocks; according to another, rather nearer to the -latter. Biner fell down on to the Durand Glacier, some 2000 feet below, -whence his mutilated body was recovered by a search party which crossed -the Trift Pass, carried the body down to Zinal, and so by road and train -brought it to Zermatt, where the funeral took place. Dr Horrocks and -Perren were rescued from their dangerous position some ten or twelve -minutes after the accident occurred, by the guides Emile Gentinetta and -Edouard Julen, who were following down the mountain with another party." - -To return to ourselves. We steadily progressed down the cold and snowy -face, with rope kept taut and paid out slowly as, one by one, we moved -lower. I need not follow our climb, which was without incident, and -while it was still daylight, we reached the snow ridge, on the stones -just below, which in ascending it is usual to pause for breakfast. We -were particularly anxious to be off the stony rocks below and to gain -the little glacier and pass over the moraine before dark, but this we -could not manage, so in spite of our lantern we wandered about on those -odious rocks for hours before we found the gully by which alone it is -possible to get off them. Our various attempts entailed the descent of -slippery chimneys leading to the top of black precipices, with nothing -to be done but scramble up again, merely to embark in other chimneys -with precisely similar consequences. I got so sick of the whole thing -that I would gladly have dozed under a rock and awaited daylight. The -guides, however, stuck to the business, and after a positive nightmare -of gullies they at last hit off the right and only one. I have seldom -felt greater satisfaction than when I stepped off those detestable rocks -on to the snow, shimmering beneath our feet in the starlight. We had now -only to cross the glacier and make our way down an exceedingly steep but -well-defined foot-path over the sharply-crested moraine. Once we had -left this behind us we had nothing more than grass-slopes between us and -the Trift Inn. As soon as we reached this final stage in our day's work, -we selected the most comfortable-looking hollow, and hanging the lantern -to an axe stuck upright in the ground, we prepared, at a somewhat -unorthodox hour and within only thirty minutes of the hotel, to enjoy a -well-earned meal. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -BENIGHTED ON A SNOW PEAK - - -In a most interesting account of a mountain adventure which, by the -courtesy of the writer, Sir H. Seymour King, I am enabled to reprint -from _The Alpine Journal_, we are once more reminded that a party of -thoroughly competent and robust mountaineers can come without evil -after-effects out of a night of great hardship which would have -undoubtedly proved fatal to ill-equipped and inexperienced amateurs and -guides, such as those accompanying Mr Burckhardt, who perished from -exposure on the Matterhorn.[8] - -After describing a previous ascent, Sir H. Seymour King goes on to say: - -"A few days later we went to Muerren, with the intention of carrying out -a long-cherished plan of mine and testing the possibility of ascending -the Silberhorn from the Roththal. Previous ascents had proved so -lengthy, necessitating, I think, in nearly every case, the passing of a -night on the rocks or the glacier, that I thought it would be highly -desirable if some shorter route could be discovered. I had an idea that -the route by the western _arete_ would prove to be the one sought for. -Unfortunately, we were delayed in making an attempt by bad weather until -the 23rd of September, which is undoubtedly too late in the year for so -difficult an expedition. - -"I left the Hotel Silberhorn with Ambrose Supersax and Louis Zurbruecken -as guides, and a porter, at ten o'clock on the morning of the 23rd of -September, and followed for some distance the usual path to the Jungfrau -Hut; at length, leaving the Roththal path on the right, we struck off -into a goat track, which leads by narrow ledges round the shoulder of -the great bluffs forming the northern boundary of the Roththal. In this -way gaining the face of the alp fronting Muerren, we made our way to the -base of the 'Strahlplatten,' where we had determined to encamp for the -night. - -"The nights were already lengthening out, and where we were it was not -light before six, and it was not possible to move earlier than five; -punctually at that hour we started. We took only one knapsack with us, -leaving the rest of the things with the porter, whom we instructed to -stay where he was until he saw whether we were going to return the same -way or not, as we thought it was quite possible we might have to pass -another night at the same place. We therefore arranged with him that -when we got to a certain point on the ridge, if we intended to return, -we would wave our hats; but if we made no sign, he might pack up his -things and go home, as in that case he might understand that we had -determined either to descend from the Silberhorn across the glacier to -the Wengern Alp, or else make our way over the Jungfrau, and pass the -night in the Bergli Hut. - -"Now let me try for a moment to describe the appearance of the rock face -up which we purposed making our way on to the _arete_. From where we -were the _arete_ appeared to run nearly due east and west. At the west -it terminated in the precipices which face Muerren, and at the east with -the peak whence we had arranged to signal to our porter. From this peak -a ridge descended towards the valley bounding the side facing us. On -that side the rock face itself was divided into two compartments by a -well-marked ridge running down the middle, giving the appearance of two -couloirs leading to the _arete_; the whole side was composed of -extremely smooth rocks, with very little foot-hold or hand-hold which -would be extremely dangerous, if not impossible, to attempt, if they -were not dry. Fortunately, we found them perfectly free from either -water or ice, and, with the exception of one difficult piece, which it -took us some little time to surmount, we found nothing to check us -until we were just under the _arete_. We ascended by the right-hand -couloir, if I may so term it, and then made for the gap on the ridge at -the extreme westerly end. Just below this gap we experienced some -difficulty, owing to the excessive smoothness of the rocks, but finally -reached the gap I have mentioned a little before nine. - -"I need not say that our hopes rose high, and that we were in the very -best of spirits, and when we finally stood in the gap itself we began to -think the worst part of the work was over. We soon found, however, that -it had hardly begun; it was all very well being in the gap, but the -problem was how to get from there on to the _arete_ itself; for, though -the latter was not more than 20 feet above us, the peculiar formation of -the rocks rendered every attempt to get on to it fruitless. The rocks -hung over on every side. We exhausted ourselves in vain attempts to -surmount them. An hour soon passed away, and after each of us in turn -had failed, we sat down disconsolately to consider the situation under -the lee of the ridge, so as to be out of the way of the biting north -wind which was blowing. Looking round as we sat mournfully consuming -some breakfast, I spied a bottle in a crevice, and found it contained -the names of Mr C. E. Matthews and Herr E. von Fellenberg, with -Melchior Anderegg and two other guides; it was undated, but recounted -how they had reached this spot and had been obliged to return without -achieving their object, which apparently was identical with our own. -This was the last straw, and exasperated Ambrose to the highest degree. -That we should have gone through so much only to have gained the same -spot where another party several years before had arrived was too much -for his equanimity. He vowed he would never go back, and nothing under -heaven should turn him back, he would get on to the ridge. We might do -as we liked, he meant to stay there until he had. All of which I pointed -out to him was very fine talk, but, as men were at present constructed, -it did not appear to me possible to climb an acute angle. Ambrose, -however, persisted that he would make another attempt to get on to the -ridge, and, as it was quite hopeless anywhere on the side by which we -had ascended, he roped himself, and insisted on being let down the -northern face of the mountain. - -"With great skill he managed to work himself along the face for the full -length of the rope, and the first 100 feet being exhausted, a second of -80 feet was tied to it, and this again paid out to its utmost length; -still he could find no way up to the ridge. He thereupon demanded that -the rope should be let go, and, in spite of our remonstrances at the -danger he was running, he pulled it in, slung it on his back, and -proceeded, while we sat down and waited with no little anxiety lest some -accident should befall him. - -"For half an hour we neither saw nor heard anything of him, and our -shouts remained unanswered. Zurbruecken muttered at intervals something -about 'Dummheit,' and was evidently very uneasy. Suddenly we heard a -shout from above, which told us he had succeeded in ascending the wall -above him, and getting on to the ridge, down which he was actually -coming at the moment, and the next minute he was peering over the point -where we had been stuck. - -"It was really a magnificent exhibition both of pluck and skill, and -Ambrose deserves the highest credit for his success. Letting the rope -over, and fastening it well to a piece of rock, he first hauled up the -ice axes and knapsacks, and then we each in turn were half hauled, and -half climbed to the place where he stood. I know when I arrived at the -top I was nearly speechless from the terrible exertion it was necessary -to make, and the pressure of the rope on my ribs; I could only lie on my -back and gasp feebly for brandy! - -"However, it was imperative to proceed; more than two hours had been -wasted here, and it was nearly eleven o'clock. The way in front of us -looked fairly plain and easy, and our hopes once again began to rise; -but soon, as we proceeded along the ridge, it became narrower and -narrower, until from walking we were reduced to kneeling, and at last -could only proceed _a cheval_; in this elegant position we struggled -along for some little distance, until the _arete_ widening out again -permitted us once more to stand up; but here we found the rocks much -more difficult, and finally absolutely impossible. At the foot of the -peak at the easterly end of the ridge which I have before mentioned we -were forced off the _arete_ on to a wall of ice which led to the summit; -the slope was at a very sharp angle, the ice very hard and blue, and at -last became so steep that we were forced back on to the rocks, and with -some considerable difficulty reached the summit; from there we could see -the Silberhorn in front of us jutting out like a great white promontory -into a frozen sea. It being then one o'clock, we saw there was no -possibility of our getting back the same way that evening, so we made no -sign to our porter, whom we could see watching us far down below. - -"The formation of the ridge here is somewhat curious. After a slight -descent it broadens out into a small and much crevassed glacier, shut in -on the further side by a level snow wall, the promontory which I have -mentioned above. The _arete_ of this wall appears to run level from the -rock ridge to its northern termination; indeed, I am of opinion that the -highest point is on the rock ridge itself, and that the extreme end of -the ridge facing the Wengern Alp is a few feet lower than the rocks -overlooking the Roththal. - -"We speedily crossed the little intervening glacier, or snow-field, and -commenced to ascend diagonally the snow wall, but found the snow in such -a dangerous condition, lying as it was loosely on the surface of ice, -that from the fear of starting an avalanche we once more made our way -back to the ridge which formed the continuation of the _arete_ along -which we had been climbing. Here the rocks were extremely difficult, -being interspersed with ice and very rotten. I think this was one of the -most difficult parts of the expedition. It was half-past three when we -reached the final summit, and then made our way along the snow ridge -nearly to its extremity. The snow _arete_ was very narrow, and in its -then condition not very pleasant to traverse; the day too was far -advanced, and we had no time to spend in much exploration, so we -returned as quickly as we could to the ridge which leads down to the -Silberluecke; we were already getting very doubtful as to whether we -should get any shelter for the night. We had reached the narrow rock -_arete_ joining the Silberhorn with the precipices of the Jungfrau; in -the middle was the narrow gap called the Silberluecke, and to that we -crawled down and halted a moment to consider whether it would not be -better to descend on to the glacier and strike across to the Wengern -Alp; but we knew from the results of previous expeditions that crossing -the glacier would probably take four, if not five hours. None of us had -ever been across it; it was then four o'clock, and it would be dark at -six. Our only hope lay in getting across the Jungfrau before the -daylight finally died out. In the gap we found a ladder left by some -previous explorer, and two or three pieces of wood; and after debating -whether we had not better pass the night there, finally decided to push -on for the Jungfrau. - -"Our chance of escaping a night in the open air depended mainly on two -points: first, whether the snow leading to the Jungfrau was in fairly -good condition; and, secondly, whether anybody whose steps we could make -use of for descending had been on the mountain that day. A few minutes -settled the first question; we found that the slopes leading up to the -upper snow-field which circles round the base of the Jungfrau were hard -as ice, and we were soon laboriously cutting steps upwards. We pushed on -with all speed, but step-cutting is at the best a slow operation, and -before we got into the Roththal track the lengthening shadows had almost -overtaken us. We hurried on and managed to get across the _bergschrund_ -before the last rays of sunlight left the summit of the Jungfrau. As we -surmounted the final rocks I turned for a minute to look across -Switzerland, and was rewarded by one of the most beautiful spectacles it -has ever been my good fortune to witness. The valleys were filled with -mist, but the setting sun tinged their surface with a deep crimson glow; -the last rays were still lingering round Mont Blanc and one or two of -the higher mountains; where we stood was still filled with golden light -from the last rays of the sinking sun. The sky was perfectly clear, and -the panorama which unrolled itself before our eyes with its mingled -light and shadow was one of the most wonderful that lover of mountain -scenery could desire to gaze on. A justification for the erection of a -hut on the summit of the Jungfrau might almost be found in the -possibility of obtaining such a view. - -"But we had no time for indulging in rhapsodies; a bitter north wind was -still blowing so keenly, that the upper leather of our boots had frozen -stiff as boards while we walked. The moon was well up, and if only our -second hope were realised, and some one had been on the mountain that -day, we might find a refuge from the wind in the Bergli or Concordia -Huts. We tumbled rather than scrambled down the rocks by the flickering -moonlight, until we reached the well-known point where it is necessary -to strike across the face just above the Roththal Sattel. Our last hope -was dashed to the ground. No one had been there that day, and if we were -to get down it must be by our own efforts. So Ambrose at once set to -work to cut steps across the face. We had been there a fortnight before, -and gone up and down the Jungfrau without cutting hardly a step; now the -face was all blue ice, and in five minutes I made up my mind that the -risk of such a descent was too much to take. - -"The wall above the great _bergschrund_ was in shadow, the _bergschrund_ -last year was especially formidable, and we were all too exhausted -safely to face the freezing wind on such a steep ice-slope in the dark. -We returned, therefore, to the rocks, and, after a brief consultation, -decided to pass the night there as best we could. We managed to find a -corner shut in on two sides by rock about 5 feet high, from the floor of -which we set to work to rake out the snow with our axes. The snow had -drifted to a considerable depth, and its excavation gave us a good -quantity of heat to start the night with, but our boots refused to thaw, -and do what we would our feet would not get warm. - -"Our provisions being nearly exhausted, we agreed only to take a -mouthful of brandy and a little bread that night, and keep the bulk of -the provisions until next morning, when we expected to be in a more or -less exhausted condition, as the cold was very great, and it was obvious -that we had a pretty severe ordeal before us. It was by this time -half-past seven o'clock. We put on our gloves and gaiters, buttoned up -our coats, and after making a seat apiece out of three smooth stones, -sat down as close together as we could, and commenced to smoke. - -"The night was beautifully clear, but far away to the south we could see -a great thunderstorm raging over the Italian hills, and were in no -little trepidation lest it should be coming up in our direction, as -indeed a storm had done in exactly a similar way a week before; but the -north wind kept it at bay, and we luckily had not a snow-storm to face -in addition to the other discomforts. - -"The night passed slowly enough; it was necessary to keep shuffling our -feet and beating our arms together the whole night long without -cessation, in order to prevent being frost-bitten, and it was even more -difficult to keep awake. The hours, however, passed somehow, and at -half-past four the first primrose streaks in the sky heralded the coming -day. By five o'clock the welcome face of the sun peeped over the -Trugberg, and we began to prepare for a start. - -"Our first thought was breakfast, but this solace was denied us; the -wine and brandy had frozen during the night, and were solid lumps of -ice; the bread required nothing less than an ice-axe to cut it, and then -probably would have flown into chips like a log of wood; the three -remaining eggs we possessed had been converted during the night into -icicles; there was nothing for it, therefore, but to start hungry and -thirsty. Ambrose proposed that he and Zurbruecken should first cut the -steps, and then come back for me, but after a very few minutes' exposure -to the wind they were obliged to return and wait until the sun had -warmed them a little, the biting cold of the night and exhaustion from -want of sleep rendered it impossible to face the work of step-cutting in -such a bitter wind. We resumed our seats, therefore, and waited another -hour, and then commenced our descent to the _bergschrund_. We had to cut -steps the whole way down, and very glad I was we had not attempted it in -the dark, as I think it would have been almost impossible to get over -without an accident. - -"We pushed on steadily, but the night had taken all the spurt out of us, -and our progress across the Jungfrau Firn was not very rapid. We hoped -to find water under the Moench Joch, where we had found a good supply a -fortnight previously, but the wind had prevented the snow melting at the -time we reached the spot, and there was nothing for it but to press on -to Grindelwald, and it was not until we reached the end of the Viescher -Glacier that we found any water to drink. At the Baeregg we got some -ginger nuts to eat, and by three o'clock in the afternoon were being -hospitably welcomed by the Bosses at the 'Baer,' whose welcome was never -more appreciated. These estimable hosts soon had an excellent dinner -ready, and by half-past four I was driving to Interlaken to rejoin the -rest of my party." - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -THE STORY OF A BIG JUMP - - -Through the kindness of Dr Kennedy, I am enabled to reprint from his new -edition of _The Alps in 1864_, by the late Mr A. W. Moore, an admirable -account of the first passage of the Col de la Pilatte in Dauphine. This -expedition has become classical, thanks to Mr Whymper's fine description -of it,[9] so it is interesting to read what impression the adventures of -the day made on another member of the party. The first part of the -expedition was easy, but, wrote Mr Moore, "before getting near the foot -of the couloir, we had something to do in threading a way up and through -the huge chasms into which the glacier was broken. Croz was here -thoroughly in his element, and led the way with great skill and -determination, passing one obstacle after another, and bearing gradually -to the left towards the enemy. At every step we took, it became more -apparent that nature had never intended any one to pass this way, and -had accordingly taken more than usual pains to render the approach to -the couloir difficult and dangerous. Below the highest _bergschrund_ -were a series of smaller ones, arranged systematically one above the -other, stretching completely across a very steep slope, so that they -could not be turned, but must each in succession be attacked _en face_. -Fortunately at this early period of the season, and with so much snow, -the difficulty was less considerable than it would have been under other -circumstances, and, exercising every precaution, we finally passed the -last of the outer lines of defence, and had nothing but a short steep -slope between us and the final _schrund_, above which the couloir rose -more unfriendly than ever, as we approached it nearer. I had been sorely -puzzled in my mind how we were going to get across this chasm, as from -below it appeared to have a uniform width of about 10 feet, the upper -edge, as usual, much higher than the lower, and no visible bridge at any -point. On getting up to it, however, we found that on the extreme right -it had been choked by a considerable mass of snow, the small remains of -which at one point formed a narrow, rotten, and most insecure bridge, -over which Croz cautiously passed, and made himself firm in the soft -snow above. Walker, Whymper, Mons. Renaud, myself, and Almer, then -followed, as if we were treading on eggs, and all got safely over, much -to our relief, as there really appeared no small chance of the bridge -going to grief before we were all across, which would have been awkward -for those on the wrong side. - -"It was just 9.30 when we fairly took to this extraordinary gully, -which, above the _bergschrund_ was certainly not more than 12 feet wide, -and gradually narrowed in its upward course. For the first few steps we -trod in a sufficiency of soft snow in good condition, but, to our -dismay, this soon sensibly diminished both in quantity and quality, -until at last there was nothing but the old, disgusting, powdery snow -resting on hard ice. The axe accordingly came into play; but if steps -were cut of the ordinary size, we should never get to the top till -night, so Croz just hacked out sufficient space for the feet to cling -to, and worked away as fast as possible, cautioning us emphatically to -look out, and to hold on well with our axes while each step was being -cut. Another argument in favour of rapid progress arose from the -palpable danger in which we were. The centre of the couloir was occupied -by a deeply-scored trough, evidently a channel for stones and -avalanches, while the space on either side was so narrow that in case of -a large fall we could scarcely expect to escape unharmed. Looking up to -see what was likely to come down, we discovered at the very head of the -couloir a perpendicular or slightly overhanging wall of _neve_, some 30 -feet in height, and lower down, projecting over the rocks on our left, -an enormous mass of icicles, on which the sun was playing, and, of -course, momentarily loosening their tenure to the rocks. At the moment -we were exactly in the line which they must follow, if they fell, as -they evidently would before long, so we lost no time in crossing the -stone channel to the other side, where the great mass was scarcely -likely to come, and we might probably ward off any stray fragments. I -received a lively hint as to the effect of a _large_ mass of ice coming -suddenly down on one's head, by the effect of a blow from a -comparatively small piece, which Croz hewed out from one of the steps. -Being so far down in the line, it had time to gain momentum before it -struck me, which it did on the head with such violence that for a few -moments I felt quite sick and stupid. The incident will give a very good -idea of the steepness of the slope on which we were. I had too much to -think of to measure it with a clinometer, but it was certainly steeper -than any part of the couloir leading to the Col des Ecrins, the greatest -inclination of which was 54 deg.. At one point a little water trickled over -the rocks, which the two front men managed to get a suck at, but those -behind were out of reach, and the footing was too precarious for more -than a minute's halt, not to mention occasional volleys of small stones -which shot by us, and might be the precursors of large ones. I don't -think that I ever experienced a greater feeling of insecurity than -during the whole of this ascent, which was unavoidably long. What with -the extreme steepness of the slope, and the necessary vagueness of the -steps, which were made additionally unsafe by the powdery snow which -filled them up as soon as they were cut, I felt that a slip was a by no -means unlikely contingency, and was glad enough upon occasions to find -Almer's hand behind, giving me a friendly push whenever a particularly -long stride had to be made. When we were nearing the top, our attention -was attracted by a tremendous uproar behind us, and, looking round, we -were just in time to see a prodigious avalanche falling over the cliffs -of the Pic de Bonvoisin, on the other side of the valley. It was at -least a quarter of a mile in length, and many minutes elapsed before the -last echoes of its fall died away. We were now so near the great -snow-wall that it was time to begin to circumvent it; so, crossing the -couloir again, we clambered up the rocks on that side in order to get -out of it, hoping to be able from them to get on to the main ridge to -the left of the wall, which itself was quite impassable. As Almer had -expected, the snow was here very thin over the rocks, and what little -there was, was converted into ice, so that the climbing was most -difficult and perilous, and we had no small trouble to get on at all. -However, we managed to scramble up, and found ourselves overlooking a -gully running parallel, and of a similar character, to the one we had -been ascending, but free from snow and ice, and much more precipitous. -On our side it was quite impossible to get on to the main ridge as an -impracticable rock rose above our heads, and it was, therefore, -necessary to step across this second couloir. I never made a nastier -step; the stride was exceedingly long, there was nothing in particular -to stand on, and nothing at all but a smooth face of rock to hold on by, -so that we had literally to trust to the natural adhesiveness of our -hands. Fortunately, there was sufficient rope to allow the man in front -to cross and get on to the main ridge, and make himself fast before his -successor followed, so we attacked the difficulty in turn. I got over -somehow, but did not like it at all; lifted myself on to the ridge, -Almer followed, and at 10.45 A.M., the Col was gained. - -"During our ascent of the couloir, the weather, though doubtful, had not -been unfavourable, but, just as we got on to the ridge, a cloud swooped -down, and enveloped us in its dense folds, and at the same moment it -began to snow violently. Luckily Croz, who was first on the top, had -been able to satisfy himself that we _were_ above the Glacier de la -Pilatte, and got a glimpse of what lay between us and it; but the state -of the atmosphere was, nevertheless, sufficiently disappointing, as we -were unable to fix with accuracy the exact position of our gap with -reference to the peak of Les Bans, and the highest point of the Boeufs -Rouges, or to determine its height. From the Breche de la Meije, we had -seen clearly that we were then considerably lower than any point on the -ridge south of the Glacier de la Pilatte, and, taking this into -consideration, together with the apparent height of our gap, seen from -the valley below, we estimated the height of the Col, which we proposed -to call Col de la Pilatte, at about 11,500 feet. It is certainly not -much below this, and is, therefore, probably the highest pass yet -effected in the Dauphine Alps. - -[Illustration: A VERY TAME BERGSCHRUND. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: HOMEWARD OVER THE SNOW-SLOPES.] - -"It was no less provoking to have missed the view of the Ecrins and -Ailefroide, which we had expected to be particularly fine. But there was -no help for it, and no prospect of immediate improvement; so, without -halting for a minute, we commenced the descent in the same order as -before. All we could see was a steep ice-wall, stretching downwards from -our feet, the actual ridge not being more than a couple of feet wide. -What was the length of the wall, or what lay below it, we could not -discover, but had a shrewd suspicion that we should anyhow find a -considerable _bergschrund_. Croz steered to the left, and began cutting -steps diagonally downwards. The snow was in a much worse condition than -it had been in the couloir; there was more of it, but it was so -exceedingly soft, that our feet pressed through it to the hard ice, as -though it had been water, and we were very rarely able to trust to it -without cutting a step. We should have been better pleased had there -been no snow at all, as the whole slope, the angle of which was about -50 deg., was in just the proper condition for an avalanche. I never saw -Almer so nervous, and with reason; for, as he himself said, while he -implored us not to move from one step into another before we felt that -one foot at least was secured, this was just one of those places where -no amount of skill on the part of Croz or himself could entirely prevent -the chance of a serious accident. It was a wonder how we did manage to -stick to some of the steps, the objectionable character of which was -increased from their being cut along the side of the slope, a position -in which it is always more difficult to get from one to the other than -when they are cut straight up or down. As we got lower down there was -more snow, which, though softer than ever, was so steep that we could -tread tolerably secure steps on it, by help of which we worked down, -until we found ourselves brought up short on the upper edge of the -expected _bergschrund_. Croz had hoped to hit this at a point where it -was partially choked, but he was disappointed, as the chasm yawned below -us, entirely unbridged. A glance right and left showed that there was no -more assailable point within reach, so Croz gave out the unwelcome -intelligence that if we wished to get over we must jump and take our -chance. The obstacle appeared to be about 10 feet wide, of uncomfortable -depth, and the drop from the upper to the lower edge about 15 feet. From -the lower edge the glacier sloped away, only less steep than the wall on -which we were, of which it was a continuation, but cut off by this -sudden break. There was, however, so much soft snow that we should fall -easy, and the only difficulty, therefore, was to take a sufficiently -fair spring to clear the chasm; for, good as I believed my rope to be, I -should have been sorry to see any one suspended by it, with a sudden -jerk, over such a gulf as that we had beneath us. Walker was untied, so -as to give rope enough to Croz, who then boldly sprung over, and landed -heavily on the lower edge in the snow, where he stood to receive the -rest of the party. Walker followed, and then Whymper, leaving Mons. -Renaud, myself, and Almer above. Mons. Renaud advanced to the edge, -looked, hesitated, drew back, and finally declared that he could not -jump it; he felt perfectly convinced that he should be unable to clear -the distance, and should jump in instead of over. We encouraged him, -but without effect, and at last proposed to lower him down, when the -others would hook hold of his legs somehow and pull him across. Almer -and I, therefore, made our footing as secure as possible, anchored -ourselves with our axes, and made all ready to lower our friend, but his -courage failed him at the last moment, and he refused to go. We were now -obliged to use stronger arguments, as it was snowing fast, and time was -passing, so we pointed out that, if we wished to return ever so much, we -could not get the others back across the _schrund_, and that, in point -of fact, there was no chance--over he _must_ go. Again did he advance to -the edge, again draw back, but finally, with a despairing groan, leaped, -and just landed clear of the chasm, but, instead of letting his rope -hang loose, he held it in one hand, and thereby nearly pulled me over -head foremost. Then came my turn, and I must confess that, when I stood -in the last step from which I had to spring, I did not like the look of -the place at all, and, in fact, felt undeniably nervous. But I had not -been one of the least backward in objurgating Mons. Renaud, so felt -constrained to manifest no hesitation myself, whatever might be my -private feelings. I, therefore, threw over my axe and spectacles, -gathered myself up, and took the leap. The sensation was most peculiar. -I had not the faintest idea whether I should or should not clear the -chasm, but the doubt was soon solved by my landing heavily on the -further side, rather to the right of the rest of the party. The heavy -load on my back sent me forwards on my face, and I shot down the slope -with tremendous velocity, head foremost, until I was suddenly stopped by -the tightening round my waist of the rope, the other end of which was -held by Almer above. My first impression was, that half my ribs were -crushed in; as it was, my wind was so completely bagged by the severity -of the jerk that I could not speak, but laughed hysterically, until -nature's bellows had replenished my unlucky carcass. The incident was so -far satisfactory that it showed the enormous strength of the rope, and -also how severe a shock a man like Almer, standing in a most insecure -position, can bear unmoved when he is prepared for it. My weight, -unloaded, is 101/2 stone, and the strain on the rope was certainly nearly -as great as though I _had_ jumped into the crevasse. Almer now followed -us over, and at 11.35 we were all together without accident below the -_schrund_, which, with the wall above it, was as ugly-looking a place as -I would wish to see. - -"We now floundered down the slope of soft snow, without taking much -care, as we imagined that henceforward it was all plain sailing, but -were abruptly checked in our pace by coming upon a huge crevasse, of -great length and breadth, but covered over in places. Several attempts -were made to cross at one of these points, but without success, as the -breadth was too great, and the snow unsubstantial in the extreme, and a -long _detour_ was necessary before we were able to get over near its -eastern extremity. This proved to be the beginning of a new series of -troubles, as the chasms became more and more numerous and complicated, -until the slope which we had imagined would be so easy, resolved itself -into a wall of gigantic _seracs_, the passage of which tasked our -energies to the utmost. The difficulty of the position was increased by -our still being enveloped in a mist so thick that we could not see a -distance of 20 feet below us, and were in a happy state of ignorance as -to whether we were steering properly, or were only plunging deeper into -the mire. Nothing, however, could exceed the energy and skill with which -Croz threaded his way through the labyrinth which surrounded us. He -never once had to retrace his steps, but, cutting along the sides of -some crevasses and underneath others, he steadily gained ground. In -spite of the generally deep snow, a good deal of step-cutting was -necessary here and there, and we had nearly an hour of most exciting -work before the inclination of the glacier diminished, and at 12.30 -P.M., for the first time since leaving the Col, we stood at ease upon a -flat plain of snow. But how long would it last? A fog on an unknown -glacier always suggests to my desponding mind the probability of -marching round and round in a circle, and finally having to pass the -night in a crevasse, so that I, personally, was particularly relieved -when, just as we emerged from the _seracs_, the mist suddenly lifted -sufficiently to let us see a long way over the glacier in front, which -displayed itself to our admiring eyes perfectly level and -uncrevassed." - -[Illustration: THE ECRINS FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE GRANDE RUINE.] - -[Illustration: _The summit of the Jungfrau._ (_P. 217._) - -_To face p. 235._] - -[Illustration: CLOUDS BREAKING LIKE A GIANT WATERFALL ON A MOUNTAIN -RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: SNOW (NOT CLOUD) BLOWN BY A TERRIFIC WIND FROM A MOUNTAIN -RIDGE.] - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -A PERILOUS FIRST ASCENT - - -Mr Whymper has also immortalised the first ascent of the Ecrins. Here is -the account Mr Moore wrote in his diary of that eventful day: - -"It must be confessed that the higher we climbed, the greater became our -contempt for our peak. It certainly seemed that, once over the -_bergschrund_, we ought very soon to be on the top, and so persuaded was -I of this, that I hazarded the opinion that by 9.30 we should be seated -on the highest point. Whymper alone was less sanguine; and, probably -encouraged by the result of his former bet, on hearing my opinion, -offered to bet Walker and myself two francs that we should not get up at -all, an offer which we promptly accepted. We were now sufficiently near -to the _bergschrund_ to be able to form some idea of its nature and -difficulty. It certainly was a formidable-looking obstacle running -completely along the base of the final peak, or rather ridge from which -the peak itself rose. For a long distance the chasm was of great width, -and, with its upper edge rising in a wall of ice, fringed with icicles, -to a height of, perhaps, 30 feet above the lower edge, was obviously -quite impassable. But on the extreme right (looking up), the two lips so -nearly met that we thought we might be able to get over, and on the -extreme left, it seemed possible, by a considerable _detour_, to -circumvent the enemy, and get round his flank. We finally determined on -the latter course, as, to the right, the slope above the chasm seemed to -be steeper than at any other point. After the first start, we had been -steering tolerably straight forwards up the centre of the glacier, and -were now approaching the _bergschrund_, just under the highest peak of -the mountain, at about its most impracticable point. The more direct -course would have been to attack it on the right, but, for the reason -above stated, we chose the opposite end, so had to strike well away to -the left diagonally up the slope. We here first began to suspect that -our progress would not be quite so easy and rapid as we had hoped, as -the snow became less abundant, and the use of the axe necessary. Still -we worked away steadily, until, at 8.10 A.M., in one hour and forty -minutes from the Col, we turned the _bergschrund_, and were fairly on -its upper edge, clinging to an ice-step which promised to be only the -first of an unpleasantly long series. - -"Above us the slope stretched up to some rocks, which continued without -interruption to the main ridge, a prominent point on which was just -above our heads. The rocks looked quite easy, and it seemed that, by -making for them just under the small peak, we should be able to work -round the latter, and get on to the main ridge to the right of it -without serious difficulty. Almer led, and wielded his axe with his -usual vigour, but the ice was fearfully hard, and he found the work very -severe, as the steps had to be cut sufficiently large and good to serve -for our retreat, if need be. After each blow, he showered down storms of -fragments which came upon the hands and legs of his followers with a -violence that rendered their position the reverse of pleasant. Still the -rocks kept their distance, and it was a long time before we scrambled on -to the lowest of them, only to find that, although from below they had -appeared quite easy, they were in reality very steep, and so smooth that -it was scarcely possible to get along them at all, the hold for hands -and feet being almost nil. The rocky peak, too, above us turned out to -be much further off than we had supposed, and, to reach the point on the -main ridge to the right of it, we had before us a long and difficult -climb up and along the face of the rocks. The prospect was not pleasant, -but we scrambled along the lower part of the rocks for a short time, and -then Almer started off alone to reconnoitre, leaving us rather -disconsolate, and Walker and myself beginning to think that there was a -considerable probability of our francs, after all, finding their way -into Whymper's pocket. Croz did not approve of the rocks at all, and -strongly urged the propriety of getting down on to the ice-slope again, -and cutting along it above the _bergschrund_ until we should be -immediately under the peak, and then strike straight up towards it. He -accordingly cast loose the rope, and crawling cautiously down, began -cutting. I am not very nervous, but, as I saw him creeping alone over -the ice-covered rocks, I felt an unpleasant qualm, which I was doomed to -experience several times before the end of the day. Just as Croz had -begun to work Almer returned, and reported that things ahead were -decidedly bad, but that he thought we could get on to the _arete_ by -keeping up the rocks. We passed his opinion down to Croz, and, while he -was digesting it, we communicated to Almer what Croz had been saying to -us. Now, up to the present time no two men could have got on better, nor -more thoroughly agreed with each other, than Croz and Almer. We had been -slightly afraid that the natural antipathy between an Oberlander and a -Chamouniard would break out upon every occasion, and that a constant -series of squabbles would be our daily entertainment. We were, however, -agreeably disappointed, as Almer displayed such an utter abnegation of -self, and such deference to Croz's opinion, that had the latter been the -worst-tempered fellow in the world, instead of the really good fellow -that he was, he could not have found a cause of quarrel. Upon this -occasion, although Almer adhered to his own opinion that it would be -better to keep to the rocks, he begged us to follow the advice of Croz, -who was equally strong in favour of the ice, should he, on further -consideration, prefer that course. Croz protested emphatically against -the rocks, but left it to us to decide, but in such a manner that it was -plain that a decision adverse to his wishes would produce a rumpus. The -position was an awkward one. The idea of cutting along a -formidably-steep slope of hard ice immediately above a prodigious -_bergschrund_ was most revolting to us, not only on account of the -inevitable danger of the proceeding, but also because of the frightful -labour which such a course must entail on the two men. On the other -hand, a serious difference with Croz would probably destroy all chance -of success in our attempt. So convinced, however, were we that the rocks -offered the most advisable route that we determined to try the -experiment on Croz's temper, and announced our decision accordingly. The -effect was electric; Croz came back again in the steps which he had cut, -anger depicted on his countenance, giving free vent to the ejaculations -of his native land, and requesting us to understand that, as we had so -chosen, we might do the work ourselves, that he would do no more. -Affairs were evidently serious, so each of us cried _peccavi_, and, to -calm his irritation, agreed, it must be confessed against our better -judgment, to adopt his route. Almer was more amused than annoyed, and -concurred without a word, so the storm blew over; the sky was again -clear, and we resumed our labours, which, during the discussion, had -been suspended for a few minutes. - -"The half-dozen steps that led us to the ice were about the most -unpleasant I ever took. The rocks were glazed with ice; there was -nothing in particular to hold on by, and without the trusty rope I -should have looked a long time before trusting myself to move. As it -was, I was very considerably relieved when we were all standing in the -steps, and Croz, again roped on to us, began at 9.35 to cut in front. I -must do him the justice to say that, so soon as we were committed to his -line of march, he worked splendidly, bringing the whole force of his arm -to bear in the blows with which he hewed the steps. Never halting for a -moment nor hesitating, he hacked away, occasionally taking a glance -behind to see that all was right. We could not but admire the -determination with which he laboured, but the exertion was fearful, and -we became momentarily more of opinion that our original decision was the -wisest. The slope on which we were was inclined at an angle of 50 deg., -never less, sometimes more, for the most part of hard blue ice, bare of -snow. This was bad enough; but far worse were places which we -occasionally came to, where there was a layer of soft, dry, powdery -snow, without cohesion, so that it gave no footing, and steps had to be -cut through it into the ice below, steps which were filled up almost as -soon as cut, and which each man had to clear out with his hands before -trusting his feet in them. All the time the great _bergschrund_ yawned -about 100 feet below us, and the knowledge of this fact kept us well on -the alert, although, from the steepness of the slope below, the chasm -itself was not visible. One hears people talk occasionally of places -where the rope should not be used, because one person slipping might -entail the loss of the whole party; but I never heard a guide give vent -to any such idea, and certain I am that had any one of us now proposed -to take off the rope and go alone on that account, Almer and Croz would -never have allowed it, and, indeed, would not have advanced another -step. It must be admitted, however, that all along this slope, had one -of us unfortunately slipped, the chance of the others being able to hold -him up would have been very small, and the probability of the party in -their fall being shot over, instead of into, the _bergschrund_, still -smaller. But, in my opinion, the use of the rope on such places gives so -much more confidence, if it is no real protection, that the chances of a -slip are much diminished, and certainly a party can progress more -rapidly. For an hour Croz kept on his way unwearied, cutting the steps -for the most part beautifully, but occasionally giving us rather a long -stride, where every one held on like grim death, while each man in -succession passed. But at last even his powerful frame required rest; so -Almer relieved him, and went to the front. - -"All this time we had risen but little, but we were now very nearly -under the highest peak, and it was necessary to think of getting on to -the ridge; so we at last fairly turned our faces to the slope, and began -cutting straight up what appeared to be a great central couloir. Unlike -most couloirs, this one did not run without interruption to the ridge -above, but came to an abrupt termination at a considerable distance -below it, leaving an intervening space of rock, which promised some -trouble. But we were yet far from the lowest point of these rocks, and -every step towards them cost no small amount of time and labour. I have -rarely been on harder ice, and, as blow after blow fell with so little -apparent result in raising us towards our goal, an inexpressible -weariness of spirit and a feeling of despair took possession of me. -Nevertheless we _did_ mount, and at 11.30, after two hours of terribly -hard work (for the guides), we grasped with our hands the lowest of the -crags. To get on them, however, was no easy task, as they were -exceedingly smooth, and coated with ice. Almer scrambled up, how I know -not, and, taking as much rope as possible, crawled on until he was -_fest_, when, by a combined operation of pulling from above and pushing -from below, each of us in turn was raised a few steps. We hoped that -this might be an exceptional bit, and that higher up matters would -improve. But it was a vain hope; the first few steps were but a -foretaste of what was to follow, and every foot of height was gained -with the greatest difficulty and exertion. As we climbed with the tips -of our fingers in some small crevice, and the tips of our toes just -resting on some painfully minute ledge, probably covered with ice or -snow, one question gradually forced itself upon us, almost to the -exclusion of the previously absorbing one, whether we should get to the -top of the mountain, and this was, how on earth we should ever get down -again--get down, that is to say, in any other state than that of -_debris_. The idea that it would be possible to descend these rocks -again, except with a rush in the shape of an avalanche, seemed rather -absurd; and at last, some one propounded the question to Almer and Croz, -but those worthies shirked the answer, and gave us one of those oracular -replies which a good guide always has at the tip of his tongue when he -is asked a question to which he does not wish to give a straightforward -response, to the effect that we should probably get down somehow. They -were, perhaps, of opinion that one thing at a time was sufficient, and -that they had work enough to settle the question of how we were to get -up. Our progress was unavoidably slow, and the positions in which one -was detained, while the man in front was going the full length of his -tether, were far from agreeable; while hanging on by my eyelids, the -view, seen between my legs, of the smooth wall of rock and ice on which -we had been so long engaged, struck me as being singularly impressive, -and gave me some occupation in discussing mentally where I should stop, -if in an oblivious moment I chanced to let go. But to all things must -come an end, and, at 12.30 P.M., with a great sigh of relief, we lifted -ourselves by a final effort on to the main ridge, which had so long -mocked at our efforts to reach it, and, to our huge delight, saw the -summit of the mountain on our right, led up to by a very steep _arete_ -of rocks, but evidently within our reach. - -"The work of the last four hours and a half had been so exciting that -we had forgotten to eat, and, indeed, had not felt the want of food; but -now the voice of nature made itself heard, and we disposed ourselves in -various positions on the ridge, which in many places we might have -straddled, and turned our attention to the provisions. As we sat facing -the final peak of the Ecrins, we had on our left the precipice which -falls to the head of the Glacier Noir. Without any exaggeration, I never -saw so sheer a wall; it was so smooth and regular that it might have -been cut with a knife, as a cheese is cut in two. Looking over, we saw -at once that, as we had thought probable, had we been able to get from -La Berarde on to the ridge at the head of the Glacier du Vallon, it -would have been impossible to get down on to the Glacier Noir, as the -cliffs are almost as precipitous as those down which we were looking. On -the right bank of the Glacier Noir towered the dark crags of the -Pelvoux, Crete du Pelvoux, and Ailefroide, a most glorious sight, -presenting a combination of, perhaps, the finest rock-forms in the Alps; -I certainly never saw so long and steep a line of cliffs, rising so -abruptly from a glacier. - -"At 12.50 we started again, Almer leading. We had first to cross a very -short but very narrow neck of snow, and Almer had scarcely set foot on -this, when a great mass of snow, which had appeared quite firm and part -of the ridge, suddenly gave way, and fell with a roar to the Glacier -Noir below. Almer's left foot was actually on this snow when it gave -way. He staggered, and we all thought he was over, but he recovered -himself and managed to keep steady on the firm ridge. It is true he was -roped; but the idea of a man being dropped with a sudden jerk, and then -allowed to hang suspended, over that fearful abyss, was almost too much -for my equanimity, and for the second time a shudder ran through my -veins. This little isthmus crossed, we tackled the rocks which rose very -steeply above our heads, and climbed steadily up along the _arete_, -generally rather below the edge on the side of the Glacier de l'Encula. -The work was hard enough, but easier than what we had gone through -below, as the rocks were free from ice, and the hold for hands and feet -was much better, so that there was no fear of slipping. I don't think a -word was said from the time we quitted our halting-place until we were -close to the top, when the guides tried to persuade us to go in front, -so as to be the first to set foot on the summit. But this we declined; -they had done the work, let them be the first to reap the reward. It was -finally settled that we should all go on together as much as possible, -as neither party would give way in this amicable contest. A sharp -scramble in breathless excitement ensued, until, at 1.25 P.M., the last -step was taken, and we stood on the top of the Ecrins, the worthy -monarch of the Dauphine Alps. - -[Illustration: THE ECRINS (IN THE CENTRE) FROM THE GLACIER BLANC. By -Signor Vittorio Sella. - -_To face p. 247._] - -"In that supreme moment all our toils and dangers were forgotten in the -blissful consciousness of success, and the thrill of exultation that ran -through me, as I stood, in my turn, on the very highest point of the -higher pinnacle--a little peak of rock with a cap of snow--was cheaply -purchased by what we had gone through. Close to us was a precisely -similar point, of much the same height, which scarcely came up to the -rank of a second summit. It could have been reached in a few seconds -from our position, but, as our point was actually the higher of the two, -and was also more convenient for sitting down, we remained where we -were. I must confess to a total inability to describe the wonderful -panorama that lay extended before us. I am not one of those happily -constituted individuals who, after many hours of excitement, can calmly -sit on the apex of a mountain, and discuss simultaneously cold chicken -and points of topography. I am not ashamed to confess that I was far too -excited to study, as I ought to have done, the details of a view which, -for extent and variety, is altogether without a parallel in my Alpine -experience. Suffice it to say that over the whole sky there was not one -single cloud, and that we were sitting on the most elevated summit south -of Mont Blanc, and it may fairly be left to the imagination to conceive -what we saw, as, at an elevation of 13,462 feet, we basked in the sun, -without the cold wind usually attendant at these heights. There was not -a breath of air, and the flame of a candle would have burnt steadily -without a flicker. In our immediate neighbourhood, after the range of -the Pelvoux, before described, the most striking object was the great -wall of the Meije, the western summit of which, from here, came out -distinctly the highest. The Aiguilles d'Arves stood out exceedingly -well, and, although 2000 feet lower than our position, looked amazingly -high. Almost the only trace of civilisation we could distinctly make out -was the Lautaret road, a portion of which, probably near the entrance of -the valley leading to the Glacier d'Arsines, was plainly visible. On the -side of the mountain towards La Berarde, what principally struck us was -a very great and extensive glacier, apparently not marked on the map, -which appeared to be an arm of the Glacier du Vallon, but far more -considerable itself than the whole glacier is depicted on the French -map. Of the extent of the view, and the wonderfully favourable condition -of the atmosphere, a fair idea may be gained from the fact that we -clearly identified the forms and ridges of the Matterhorn and Weisshorn, -the latter at a distance of 120 miles, as the crow flies, and that -those were by no means the most distant objects visible. - -[Illustration: SLAB CLIMBING. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: A NARROW ROCK RIDGE. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: ON THE DENT DU GEANT. By the late Mr. W. F. Donkin.] - -[Illustration: THE TOP AT LAST! - -_To face p. 252._] - -"So soon as the first excitement consequent on success had subsided, we -began seriously to meditate upon what during the ascent had frequently -troubled us, viz. the descent. With one consent we agreed that unless no -other route could be found, it would be most unadvisable to attempt to -go down the way we had mounted. The idea of the rocks, to be followed by -the ice-slope below--in a doubly dangerous state after being exposed all -day to the scorching sun--was not to be entertained without a shudder. -The only alternative route lay along the opposite _arete_ to that which -had led us to the top, and, although we could not see far in this -direction, we determined, after very little discussion, to try it. -Accordingly, after twenty minutes' halt, we each pocketed a small -fragment of the stone that was lying on the snow, and, regretting that -we had no bottle to leave, and no materials with which to construct a -cairn, took our departure at 1.45 from the lofty perch which, I fancy, -is not likely to receive many subsequent visitors. Passing immediately -below the second point before mentioned, so that our hands almost rested -on it, and also several similar pinnacles, our work commenced. I never, -before or since, was on so narrow an _arete_ of rock, and really from -step to step I was at a loss to imagine how we were to get on any -further. We kept, as a rule, just below the edge, as before, on the side -of the Glacier de l'Encula, along a series of ledges of the narrowest -and most insecure character; but we were always sufficiently near the -top to be able to look over the ridge, down the appalling precipices -which overhang, first the Glacier Noir, and later, the Glacier du -Vallon. Of course, every single step had to be taken with the greatest -care, only one person moving in turn, and the rest holding on for dear -life, Croz coming last to hold all up. In spite of the great difficulty -of the route, the obstacles were only such as required more or less time -to surmount, and although the slightest nervousness on the part of any -one of us would have endangered the whole party and delayed us -indefinitely, in the absence of that drawback we got on pretty well. We -were beginning to hope that the worst was over, when Almer suddenly -stopped short, and looked about him uneasily. On our asking him what was -the matter, he answered vaguely that things ahead looked bad, and that -he was not sure that we could pass. Croz accordingly undid the rope, as -also did Almer, and the two went forward a little, telling us to remain -where we were. We could _not_ see what was the nature of the difficulty, -but we _could_ see the countenances of the men, which sufficiently -showed us that the hitch was serious. Under any other circumstances we -should have been amused at Almer's endeavours to communicate his views -to Croz in an amazing mixture of pantomime, bad German, and worse -French. He evidently was trying to persuade Croz of something, which -Croz was not inclined to agree to, and we soon made out that the point -at issue was, whether we could get over this particular place, or -whether we must return to the summit, and go down the way we had come. -Croz was of the latter opinion, while Almer obstinately maintained that, -bad as the place was, we _could_ get over it, and proceeded to perform -some manoeuvres, which we could not clearly see, by way of showing the -correctness of his opinion. Croz, however, was unconvinced, and came -back to us, declaring plainly that we should have to return. We shouted -to Almer, who was still below, but he evidently had not the slightest -intention of returning, and in a few moments called upon us to come on, -an injunction which we cheerfully obeyed as, in our opinion, anything -would be preferable to a retreat, and Croz perforce followed. A very few -steps showed us the nature of the difficulty. The _arete_ suddenly -narrowed to a mere knife-edge of _rock_, while on one side a smooth -wall, some 4000 feet in height, fell sheer towards the Glacier du -Vallon, and on the other side, above the Glacier de l'Encula, the slope -was not much less steep and equally smooth. To pass below the ridge on -either side was obviously quite impossible; to walk along the ridge, -which was by no means level, was equally so, and the only way of getting -over the difficulty, therefore, was to straddle it, an operation which -the sharpness of the ridge, putting aside all other considerations, -would render the reverse of agreeable. However, there, perched in the -middle of this fiendish place, sat Almer, with one leg over Glacier du -Vallon and the other over the Glacier de l'Encula, calm and unmoved, as -if the position was quite an everyday one. He had not got the rope on, -and as he began moving along the ridge we shrieked at him to take care, -to which he responded with a '_ja, gewiss!_' and a chuckle of -satisfaction. We threw him the end of the rope, and then cautiously -moved, one at a time, towards him. I must confess that when I found -myself actually astride on this dizzy height I felt more inclined to -remain there for ever, contemplating the Glacier du Vallon, on to which -I might have dropped a stone, than to make my way along it. The -encouraging voice of Almer, however, urged me on, and I gradually worked -myself along with my hands until I was close up to him and Walker, with -no damage save to the seat of my trousers. Whymper and Croz followed. -From this point forwards we had for half-an-hour, without exception, the -most perilous climbing, I ever did. We crept along the cliffs, -sometimes on one side of the ridge, sometimes on the other, frequently -passing our arms over the summit, with our feet resting on rather less -than nothing. Almer led with wonderful skill and courage, and gradually -brought us over the worst portion of the _arete_, below which the -climbing was bad enough, but not quite such nervous work as before, and -we were able to get along rather quicker. At length, at 3.45, in two -hours from the top, we were not far above the well-marked gap in the -ridge, between the highest peak and the one marked on the French map -3980 metres, or 13,058 feet. There we thankfully left the _arete_, and, -turning to the right, struck straight down the ice-slope towards the -_bergschrund_. Almost every step had to be cut, but, in spite of all he -had done, Almer's vigour seemed unimpaired, and resolutely declining -Croz's offers to come to the front, he hacked away, so that we descended -steadily, if slowly. We could not see the _bergschrund_, and were -therefore uncertain for what exact point to steer, for we knew that at -only one place would it be possible to get over it at all, where from -below we had seen that the two edges nearly met--at all others the -breadth and height would be far too great for a jump. For some distance -we kept straight down, but after a time bore rather to the left, cutting -diagonally along the slope, which was inclined at an angle of 52 deg., and, -below us, curled over so rapidly, that we _could_ see the glacier on to -which we wished to descend, but _could not_ see what lay between us and -it. Passing over a patch of ice-covered rocks which projected very -slightly from the general level of the slope, we were certain that we -could not be far above the _schrund_, but did not quite see how we were -to get down any further without knowing whether we _were_ above a -practicable point or not. It was suggested that one of the party should -be let down with a rope, but, while we were discussing who should be the -one, Almer cut a few steps more, and then, stooping down and craning -over, gave a yell of exultation, and exclaimed that it was all right, -and that we might jump over. By a marvellous bit of intuition, or good -luck, he had led us to the only point where the two edges of the chasm -so nearly met that we could get across. He cut down as low as possible, -and then, from the last step, each man, in turn, sprang without -difficulty on to the lower edge of the crevasse, and at 4.45 the problem -of getting off the mountain was solved. - -"The return from this point was uneventful." - -A few days later Mr Moore had an amusing conversation with a chance -acquaintance, who made a remark that has since been often quoted. Mr -Moore relates it as follows:-- - -"At the door of the hotel was standing a young Frenchman, with whom we -got into conversation, observing that we had just made the ascent of the -highest mountain in the country. 'Oh,' replied he, 'sans doute, le Pic -de Belledonne'; a rather elevated Rigi in the neighbourhood. We informed -him that our conquest was not the Pic de Belladonne, but the Pic des -Ecrins, on hearing which he smiled blandly, never having heard the name -before, and, evidently meditating how he might avoid showing his -ignorance, finally contented himself with a spasmodic 'Ah!' After a -short pause, he inquired whether we had been up Mont Blanc, and, on _my_ -replying in the negative, went on to say that _he_ had, about ten days -before. We were astonished, as, without wishing to reflect on the -appearance of the worthy Gaul, I must say that he did not give us the -idea of a man capable of such a performance. However, we, in our turn, -smiled blandly, and inquired whether, so early in the season, he had -found the ascent difficult, and whether he had had a good view from the -_summit_. 'From the summit!' said he; 'I did not go to the summit.' We -ventured to inquire how high his wanderings had reached. 'Mon Dieu!' -replied he, 'jusqu'au Montanvert!' Our politeness was not proof against -this, so we broke off the conversation abruptly, and retired to indulge -our merriment unchecked." - -The Ecrins is now frequently climbed. A new way up the rocky south side -was discovered by a Frenchman, and is now usually taken for the ascent, -the descent being accomplished by the north face which the party that -included Mr Moore went up by and which has just been described. The -route is now well known, and thus it is possible to hit off the easiest -passages, but the traverse of what is known to the guides as 'the -Couloir Whymper' always requires the greatest care. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -THUNDERSTORMS IN THE ALPS - - -The fatal accident caused by lightning on the Wetterhorn in 1902 has -emphasized the curious fact that, except on that occasion, and once -before, many years ago, when Mrs Arbuthnot was killed on the -Schildthorn, no lives[10] have been lost in a thunderstorm on the Alps. -This is the more remarkable when we glance through books on -mountaineering, and notice how often climbers have been exposed to the -full fury of summer storms, and what narrow escapes they have had. In -July 1863, Mr and Mrs Spence Watson, with two friends and two guides, -made an excursion from the AEggischhorn to the high glacier pass of the -Jungfraujoch, an admirable account of the day's adventures having been -contributed by Mr Watson to _The Alpine Journal_, from which I extract -the following details. - -After starting on a lovely morning, the weather changed, and when they -got to the pass they encountered a severe storm of wind, snow, and hail. -They quickly turned to descend, the snow falling so heavily that they -could not for a time see their old tracks. Suddenly a loud peal of -thunder was heard, "and shortly after," writes Mr Watson, "I observed -that a strange singing sound like that of a kettle was issuing from my -alpenstock. We halted, and finding that all the axes and stocks emitted -the same sound, stuck them into the snow. The guide from the hotel now -pulled off his cap, shouting that his head burned, and his hair seemed -to have a similar appearance to that which it would have presented had -he been on an insulated stool under a powerful electrical machine. We -all of us experienced the sensation of pricking or burning in some part -of the body, more especially in the head and face, my hair also standing -on end in an uncomfortable but very amusing manner. The snow gave out a -hissing sound, as though a shower of hail were falling; the veil in the -wide-awake of one of the party stood upright in the air; and on waving -our hands, the singing sound issued loudly from the fingers. Whenever a -peal of thunder was heard the phenomenon ceased, to be resumed before -its echoes had died away. At these times we felt shocks, more or less -violent, in those portions of the body which were most affected. By one -of these shocks my right arm was paralysed so completely that I could -neither use nor raise it for several minutes, nor, indeed, till it had -been severely rubbed by Claret, and I suffered much pain in it at the -shoulder joint for some hours. At half-past twelve the clouds began -to pass away, and the phenomenon finally ceased, having lasted -twenty-five minutes. We saw no lightning, and were puzzled at first as -to whether we should be afraid or amused. The young guide was very much -alarmed, but Claret, who had twice previously heard the singing -(unaccompanied by the other symptoms), laughed so heartily at the whole -affair that he kept up our spirits." - -[Illustration: ON A RIDGE IN THE OBERLAND.] - -[Illustration: THE SECOND LARGEST GLACIER IN THE ALPS. By Royston Le -Blond. - -_To face p. 259._] - -The position of the party, was, however, by no means safe, yet though I -have often heard the buzzing of ice-axes and rocks when in a -thunderstorm on the mountains, I have never seen any ill effects from -it. - -A little later another description appears in _The Alpine Journal_, by -Mr C. Packe, who, during the descent of a peak in the Pyrenees, was -astonished to hear a curious creaking sound proceeding from behind him. -He was carrying various heavy articles at the time, and imagined that -the noise was due to the straining of the straps of his knapsack. He -presently unslung his load, and was amazed to find a strange buzzing -noise proceeding from his rifle, "as though it had been an air gun -trying to discharge itself. As I held it away from me, pointed upwards," -he continues, "the noise became stronger, and as I in vain sought to -account for it, I thought it possible that some large insect--a bee or -beetle--might have got down the barrel, and be trying to escape. I held -the barrel downwards, with a view to shake it out; but on lowering the -gun the sound at once ceased, but was renewed as often as I raised it." -It then began to occur to Mr Packe that the sound was electrical, and he -felt sure this was so when he found that his alpenstock had joined in -the buzzing. He therefore made a hasty retreat out of the highly charged -upper regions. Several peals of thunder had previously been heard but no -lightning was seen. A violent storm had, however, been experienced in a -neighbouring district. That similar conditions may seem delightful to -one man and entirely odious to another will strike whoever reads the -following short extract from an account of a climb in the Pyrenees made -by Mons. Henri Brulle. It was translated by Count Russell for _The -Alpine Journal_, and runs as follows: - -"Another time I crossed the Vignemale alone, _en col_, under conditions -which made this expedition the pleasantest of my souvenirs. A furious -storm was raging. Enveloped in the morning in a dense fog, annoyed in -the steep couloirs of the Cerbillonas by vultures which swept over me -like avalanches, just grazing me with their long wings, assailed during -three hours by hailstones of such size that they bruised and stunned me, -deafened by thunder, and so electrified that I was hissing and -crepitating, I notwithstanding reached the summit at half-past four in -the evening, amidst incessant detonations. In descending the glacier I -got lost in a labyrinth of crevasses, and while balancing myself on an -ice-wave I nearly dropped my ice-axe. As a climax, night came on as -black as ink, and I had to grope and feel my way down the endless valley -of Ossoue. It was eleven o'clock at night when I reached Gavarnie, -almost starved and quite exhausted, but having lived the crowning day of -my life." - -Here is indeed Mark Tapley in the flesh! - -Captain E. Clayton relates in _The Alpine Journal_ an adventure that -nearly cost him his life. - -"On 17th August last I left the Hochjoch Haus with Gabriel -Spechtenhauser with the intention of ascending the Weisskugel at the -head of the Oetzthal. The weather for the past week had been very -changeable, but when we started at 3 A.M. it was fine and starlight. A -German gentleman with two guides and two others with two guides started -at the same time. As long as the aid of a lantern was desirable we kept -together, but as it grew light Gabriel and I gradually drew ahead. As -day broke clouds began to gather, and when we halted for breakfast at -6.10 A.M. they hung so heavy on the Weisskugel that after breakfast, -instead of going straight on, we diverged to the top of the rocks -leading down towards Kurzras, with the intention of waiting a short -time to see what the weather would do, and if it did not mend, of going -down to Kurzras, where a friend was awaiting me. - -"At these rocks we were overtaken by the single German gentleman with -his guides, who had outstripped the other party. Before long the weather -seemed to improve, the clouds on the Weisskugel got lighter, the sky -seemed bright to the north, and we thought that very soon everything -would be quite clear. The German quickly made a fresh start, but Gabriel -and I waited to finish our pipes. However, we soon passed the other -party, and, passing over a minor summit, where we left the rope, reached -the real summit at 8.30 A.M. We had heard one or two peals of thunder on -the way, but none appeared very close, and they seemed to be getting -more distant. The summit was still in cloud, but it did not seem thick, -and I thought it would soon blow away. But almost directly we reached -the top it began to hail, and we went down a few steps on the rocky -ridge that falls towards the Langtauferer Glacier, to be somewhat -sheltered. - -"Here I remember handing Gabriel my map to put in his pocket to keep -dry, and knew nothing more till I woke to the consciousness that he was -lifting me up from where I was lying on the rocks, some 20 feet, I -suppose, lower than the point where we had been standing. I was -bleeding from a cut on the head, and my right arm was very painful, and -turned out afterwards to be broken. Gabriel said that he had been -knocked down also, but not rendered insensible, and, falling on his -hands towards the upward slope, was not hurt. He also said that he was -to a certain extent conscious of there having been a sudden glare and -explosion, but I knew nothing of it. The German and his two guides, who -at the time were just below the first summit, but not within sight of -us, were so alarmed at the lightning and thunder, that they turned at -once and never stopped till they reached Kurzras. The other party, who -had not got beyond the rocks where we halted during the ascent, waited -there for us, and Joseph Spechtenhauser, one of their guides, came to -meet us and see if we wanted assistance. However, I was quite myself -when I came to, which was directly Gabriel lifted me up, and the -mountain is so easy that my disabled arm was of little consequence. I -did not notice any more thunder or lightning after the flash that -knocked us down, and the day cleared up to a lovely one. I have every -reason to be pleased with Gabriel's kindness and attention to me without -regard to himself, and very much regret that my accident prevented me -from carrying out any of the other expeditions which I had promised -myself the pleasure of making in his company." - -One of the most exciting accounts of an adventure in the Alps is Mr -Tuckett's description of "A Race for Life,"[11] on the Eiger. Hardly -less stirring is a paper in _The Alpine Journal_ by the same famous -climber, from which he most kindly allows me to give a long quotation, -telling of a narrow escape during one of the most appalling -thunderstorms that could be experienced. The party were making the -ascent of the Roche Melon, a peak 11,593 feet high not far from the Mont -Cenis. The weather was unsettled, and grew worse as they mounted. - -"Proceeding very cautiously through the whirling wreaths of vapour lest -we should suddenly drop over upon Italy and hurt it--or ourselves--we -struck up the 'final incline'--as an American companion of mine once -dubbed the cone of Vesuvius as we looked down upon it from its rim--and -at 11.15 stood beside the ruins of the signal and enjoyed a very -magnificent view of nothing in particular. As we had plenty of time at -our disposal--three and a half hours sufficing for the descent to -Susa--and the wind was keen and damp, our first proceeding was to search -for the chapel, which we knew must be quite close to the summit of the -peak; and, about 30 feet lower down, on the southern side, which was -entirely free from snow, we came upon a tight little wooden building, -some 6 or 7 feet long and high by 5 broad, very carefully constructed, -with flat bands of thin iron on the outside covering the lines of -junction of the planks, so as effectually to keep out both wind and -moisture. Opposite the door, which we found carefully bolted, was a -wooden shelf against the wall serving as an altar, on which stood a -small bronze statuette of the Virgin, whilst on either hand hung the -usual curious medley of votive paintings, engravings, crosses, tapers -etc., not to mention certain pious scribblings. Taking great care to -disturb nothing, we arranged a loose board and our packs on the rather -damp floor so as to form a seat, and waited for the clouds to disperse -and disclose the superb panorama that we knew should here be visible. - -"Here I may be allowed to mention that a chapel, said to have been -originally excavated in the rock, and subsequently buried under ice or -snow, was here dedicated to the Virgin by a crusader of Asti, Boniface -by name, of the house of Rovero, in fulfilment of a vow made whilst a -captive in the hands of the Saracens. More recently the present wooden -structure has taken its place, and every year, on 5th August, pilgrims -resort to it in considerable numbers. Lower down on the Susa side is a -much more substantial structure, at a height of 9396 feet, called the Ca -d'Asti, in allusion to the circumstances of its foundation. The last is -a solidly, not to say massively, constructed circular edifice of stone -and mortar, some 15 or 16 feet in diameter, and perhaps rather more in -height, with a vaulted roof of solid masonry covered externally with -tiles, and surmounted by an iron cross. Seen from below, it stands out -boldly on a mass of crags which conceal the actual summit of the Roche -Melon, and close by are some low sheds, which appear ordinarily to serve -as shelter for flocks of sheep browsing on the grassy slopes around, but -on the night preceding the festa of 5th August, furnish sleeping -quarters for the assembled pilgrims, who attend mass in the adjoining -chapel, if the weather, as frequently happens, does not permit of its -being celebrated on the summit of the mountain, in what is probably the -most elevated shrine in Europe. - - * * * * * - -"The Roche Melon stands just in the track of the great storms which, -brewed in the heated plains of Lombardy and Piedmont, come surging up -through the valley of the Dora Riparia, and burst, hurling and crashing -over the depression of Mont Cenis, to find or make a watery grave in the -valley of the Arc. Of their combined fierceness and grandeur we were -soon to have only too favourable an opportunity of judging, for scarcely -more than five minutes after we had comfortably established ourselves -under shelter, suddenly, without a moment's warning, a perfect -_mitraille_ of hail smote the roof above us, tore through the mist like -grape-shot through battle-smoke, and whitened the ground like snow. We -closed the door carefully, for now came flash after flash of brilliant -lightning, with sharp, angry, snapping thunder, which, if we had been a -quarter of an hour later, would have made our position on the exposed -northern side anything but pleasant. We congratulated ourselves on our -good fortune, but were glad to pitch our axes amongst the _debris_ of -rock above us and await patiently the hoped-for dispersal of the fog. In -a few minutes the hail ceased, the mist became somewhat brighter, rifts -appeared in all directions, and, issuing forth, we were amply rewarded -by such glimpses of the wonderful view as, if not fully satisfactory for -topographical purposes, were, in a picturesque and artistic point of -view, indescribably grand and interesting. The extent of level country -visible is a remarkable feature in the view from the Roche Melon, as -also in that from the summit of the Pourri, where Imseng not a little -amused me on first catching sight of the plains of France stretching -away till lost in the haze, by shouting in a fit of uncontrollable -enthusiasm, 'Ach! Das ist wunderschoen!--ganz eben!'[12] - -"We had not had more than time enough to seize the general features of -the panorama and admire the special effects with their ever-changing and -kaleidoscopic combinations, when the mist once more swooped upon us, -again to be followed by hail, lightning, and thunder, and a fresh -clearance. But this second visitation left behind it a further souvenir -in the shape of a phenomenon with which most mountaineers are probably -more or less familiar, but which I never met with to the same extent -before--I allude to an electrified condition of the summit of the -mountain and all objects on its surface by conduction. As the clouds -swept by, every rock, every loose stone, the uprights of the rude -railing outside the chapel, the ruined signal, our axes, my lorgnette -and flask, and even my fingers and elbows, set up - - "'a dismal universal hiss.' - -It was as though we were in a vast nest of excited snakes, or a battery -of frying-pans, or listening at a short distance to the sustained note -of a band of _cigali_ in a chestnut wood--a mixture of comparisons which -may serve sufficiently to convey the impression that the general effect -was indescribable. I listened and looked and tried experiments for some -time, but suddenly it burst out with an energy that suggested a coming -explosion, or some equally unpleasant _denouement_, and, dropping my -axe, to whose performance I had been listening, I fairly bolted for -the chapel. - -[Illustration: 13,300 FEET ABOVE THE SEA.] - -[Illustration: ON THE FURGGEN GRAT.] - -[Illustration: A "PERSONALLY CONDUCTED" PARTY ON THE BREITHORN.] - -[Illustration: PACKING THE KNAPSACK AFTER LUNCH. - -_To face p. 269._] - -"We had now spent a couple of hours on the summit, and had succeeded in -getting, bit by bit, a sight of most of the principal features of the -very remarkable view, with the exception of Monte Viso, which -persistently sulked; so at 1.15, as there seemed a probability of the -weather becoming worse before it improved, we quitted our excellent -shelter, and, after putting everything in order and carefully closing -and bolting the door, sallied forth into the mist, which was again -enshrouding the mountain, apparently as the advance guard of the -fiercest storm in the neighbourhood, which we had for some time been -watching as it swept solemnly towards us down the valley of the Dora. - -"There is a sort of track, rather than well-defined path, down the bare, -rocky, and _debris_-covered southern face of the mountain, but in the -fog and momentarily increasing gloom of the coming tempest it was not -always very easy to distinguish it. Still, we descended rapidly, and in -less than half an hour had dropped down some 2000 feet to a point where, -during an instant's lift, we descried the outline of the Ca d'Asti five -minutes below us, just as the edge of the coming hail smote us with a -fury which it was hard at times to face. We dashed on--it was a regular -_sauve qui peut_--blinded and staggering under the pitiless pelting and -the fury of the blast, gained the door of the chapel, which faced the -storm, deposited our axes outside, and darted in, thankful again to find -ourselves under so good a roof just when it was most needed. - -"For, if there had been at times wild goings on upon the summit during -the morning, they were merely a faint prelude to the elemental strife -which now raged around. The wind roared and the hail hissed in fiendish -rivalry, and yet both seemed silenced when the awful crashes of thunder -burst above and about us. We were in the very central track and focus of -the storm, and, as we sat crouched upon the floor, the ground and the -building seemed to reel beneath the roar of the detonations, and our -heads almost to swim with the fierce glare of the lightning. I had -carefully closed the door, not only to keep the wind and hail out, but -also because lightning is apt to follow a current of air, and, to the -right on entering, at about the height of a man, was a small unglazed -window some 2 feet square. Opposite the door was the altar, on the step -of which I seated myself. Imseng took a place by my side, between me and -the window, whilst Christian perched himself on the coil of rope with -his back to the wall, not far from the door, and between it and the -window. A quarter of a hour may have gone by when a flash of intense -vividness seemed almost to dart through the window, and so affected -Imseng's nerves that he hastily quitted his seat by me and coiled -himself up near Christian, remarking that 'that was rather too close to -be pleasant.' Then came four more really awful flashes, followed all but -instantaneously by sharp, crackling thunder, which sounded like a volley -of bullets against a metal target, and then a fifth with a slightly -increased interval between it and the report. I was just remarking to -Christian that I thought the worst was past, and that we should soon be -liberated, adding, 'How fortunate we are for the second time to-day to -get such shelter just in the nick of time,' when--crash! went -everything, it seemed, all at once: - - "'No warning of the approach of flame, - Swiftly like sudden death it came.' - -If some one had struck me from behind on the bump of firmness with a -sledge-hammer, or if we had been in the interior of a gigantic -percussion shell which an external blow had suddenly exploded, I fancy -the sensation might have resembled that which I for the first instant -experienced. We were blinded, deafened, smothered, and struck, all in a -breath. The place seemed filled with fire, our ears rang with the -report, fragments of what looked like incandescent matter rained down -upon us as though a meteorite had burst, and a suffocating sulphurous -odour--probably due to the sudden production of ozone in large -quantities--almost choked us. For an instant we reeled as though -stunned, but each sprang to his feet and instinctively made for the -door. What my companions' ideas were I cannot tell; mine were few and -simple--I had been struck, or was being struck, or both; the roof would -be down upon us in another moment; inside was death, outside our only -safety. The door opened inwards, and our simultaneous rush delayed our -escape; but it was speedily thrown back, and, dashing out into the -blinding hail, we plunged, dazed and almost stupefied, into the nearest -shed. For the next few minutes the lightning continued to play about us -in so awful a manner that we were in no mood calmly to investigate the -nature or extent of our injuries. It was enough that we were still among -the living, though I must own that, at first, I had a fearful suspicion -that poor Imseng was seriously wounded. He held his head between his -hands, and rolled it about in so daft a manner, and was so odd and -unnatural in his movements generally, that it struck me his brain might -have received some injury. I, for my part, was painfully conscious of a -good deal of pain in the region of the right instep, and I saw that one -of Christian's hands was bleeding, and that he was holding both his -thighs as if in suffering. - -[Illustration: MONTE ROSA FROM THE FURGGEN GRAT.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE WELLENKUPPE. - -_To face p. 272_.] - -"Gradually the storm drew off towards the Mont Cenis, and, with minds -free from the tension of imminent peril, we had time to take stock of -our condition. It was a relief to see Imseng let go his head and -observe that it remained erect; to hear Christian say that his thighs -were getting better; and to find, on examining my foot, that the -mischief was nothing more than a flesh wound, which was bleeding but -slightly. My hat, indeed, was knocked in, my pockets filled with stones -and plaster, and my heart, it may be, somewhat nearer my mouth than -usual, but otherwise we could congratulate ourselves, with deep -thankfulness on a most marvellous escape from serious harm. - -"On comparing our impressions, Imseng declared that the lightning had -entered through the window, struck the altar, glanced off from it to the -wall, and then vanished, whilst Christian and I agreed in the belief -that the roof had been the part struck, and the flash had descended -almost vertically upon us. Quitting our place of refuge and repairing to -the chapel, we encountered a scene of ruin which at once confirmed the -correctness of our views. The lightning had evidently first struck the -iron cross outside and smashed in the roof, dashing fragments of stone -and plaster upon us which, brilliantly illuminated, looked to our dazed -and confused vision like flakes of fiery matter. It had then encountered -the altar, overturning the iron cross and wooden candlesticks only 3 -feet from the back of my head as I sat on the step, tearing the wreath -of artificial flowers or worsted rosettes strung on copper wire which -surrounded the figure of the Virgin, and scattering the fragments in all -directions. Next it glanced against the wall, tore down, or otherwise -damaged, some of the votive pictures (engravings), and splintered -portions of their frames into 'matchwood.' The odour of ozone was still -strong, the water from the melting hail was coming freely through the -roof, and the walls were in two places cracked to within 5 feet of the -ground. In fact, as a chapel, the building was ruined, though showing -little traces, externally, of the damage done, so that it is -possible--unless a stray shepherd happened to look in--that its -condition would for the first time become known upon the arrival of the -pilgrims on the eve of 5th August. - -"We stood long watching our departing foe, and then three very sobered -men dropped down silently and quickly that afternoon upon Susa, thinking -of what might have been our fate." - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -LANDSLIPS IN THE MOUNTAINS - - -"Sir W. Martin Conway has been good enough to allow me to extract from -_The Alps from End to End_ the following account of the destruction of -Elm. Mountain falls have a special interest for all who travel in -Switzerland, where the remains of so many are visible. - -"The Himalayas are, from a geological point of view, a young set of -mountain ranges; they still tumble about on an embarrassingly large -scale. The fall, which recently made such a stir, began on 6th September -1893. That day the Maithana Hill (11,000 feet), a spur of a large -mountain mass, pitched bodily rather than slid, into the valley. - -"'Little could be seen of the terrible occurrence, for clouds of dust -instantly arose, which darkened the neighbourhood and fell for miles -around, whitening the ground and the trees until all seemed to be snow -covered. The foot of the hill had been undermined by springs until there -was no longer an adequate base, and in the twinkling of an eye a large -part of the mountain slid down, pushed forward, and shot across the -valley, presenting to the little river a lofty and impervious wall, -against which its waters afterwards gathered. Masses of rocks were -hurled a mile away, and knocked down trees on the slopes across the -valley. Many blocks of dolomitic limestone, weighing from 30 to 50 tons, -were sent like cannon-shots through the air. The noise was terrific, and -the frightened natives heard the din repeated at intervals for several -days, for the first catastrophe was succeeded by a number of smaller -slides. Even five months after the mountain gave way, every rainy day -was succeeded by falls of rocks. A careful computation gives the weight -of the enormous pile of rubbish at 800,000,000 tons.' - -"The Himalayas are indeed passing through their dramatic geological -period, when they give rise to such landslips as this at relatively -frequent intervals. Plenty of landslips quite as big have been recorded -in the last half-century, and, amongst the remote and uninhabited -regions of the great ranges, numbers more of which no record is made -constantly happen. The catastrophic period has ended for the Alps. -Landslips on a great scale seldom occur there now; when they do occur, -the cause of them is oftener the activity of man than of natural forces. -But of a great landslip in the Alps details are sure to be observed, and -we are enabled to form a picture of the occurrence. When the Alps -tremble the nations quake; the Himalayas may shudder in their solitudes, -but the busy occidental world pays scant attention, unless gathering -waters threaten to spread ruin afar. Of the Gohna Lake we have been told -much, but little of the fall that caused it. Eye-witnesses appear not to -have been articulate. We can, however, form some idea of what it was -like from the minute and accurate account we possess of a great and -famous Alpine landslip. I refer to that which buried part of the village -of Elm, in Canton Glarus, on 11th September 1881.[13] - -"Elm is the highest village in the Sernf Valley. Its position is fixed -by the proximity of a meadow-flat of considerable extent. Above this -three minor valleys radiate, two of which are separated from one another -by a mountain mass, whose last buttress was the Plattenbergkopf, a hill -with a precipitous side and a flat and wooded summit, which used to face -the traveller coming up the main valley. It was this hill that fell. - -"The cause of the fall was simple, and reflects little credit on Swiss -communal government. About half-way up the hill there dips into it a bed -of fine slate, excellent for school-slates. In the year 1868 concessions -were given by the commune for working this slate for ten years without -any stipulation as to the method to be employed. Immense masses of the -rock were removed. A hole was made 180 metres wide, and no supports were -left for the roof. It was pushed into the mountain to a depth of 65 -metres! In 1878, when the concessions lapsed, the commune, by a small -majority, decided to work the quarry itself. Every burgher considered -that he had a right to work in the quarry when the weather was -unsuitable for farm labour. The place was therefore overcrowded on wet -days, and burdened with unskilful hands. The quarry, of course, did not -pay, and became a charge on the rates, but between eighty and one -hundred men drew wages from it intermittently. - -"The roof by degrees became visibly rotten. Lumps of rock used to fall -from it, and many fatal accidents occurred. The mass of the mountain -above the quarry showed a tendency to grow unstable, yet blasting went -forward merrily, and no precautions were taken. Cracks opened overhead -in all directions; water and earth used to ooze down through them. -Fifteen hundred feet higher up, above the top of the Plattenbergkopf, -the ground began to be rifted. In 1876 a large crack split the rock -across above the quarry roof, and four years later the mass thus -outlined fell away. In 1879 serious signs were detected of coming ruin -on a large scale. A great crack split the mountain across behind the -top of the hill. The existence of this crack was well known to the -villagers, who had a special name for it. It steadily lengthened and -widened. By August 1881 it was over four metres wide, and swallowed up -all the surface drainage. Every one seems then to have agreed that the -mountain would ultimately fall, but no one was anxious. The last part of -August and the first days of September were very wet. On 7th September -masses of rock began to fall from the hill; more fell on the 8th, and -strange sounds were heard in the body of the rock; work was at last -suspended in the quarry. On the 10th a commission of incompetent people -investigated the hill, and pronounced that there was no immediate -danger. They, however, ordered that work should cease in the quarry till -the following spring, whereat the workmen murmured. All through the 10th -and the morning of the 11th falls of rock occurred every quarter of an -hour or so. Some were large. They kept coming from new places. The -mountain groaned and rumbled incessantly, and there was no longer any -doubt that it was rotten through and through. - -"The 11th of September was a wet Sunday. Rocks and rock-masses kept -falling from the Plattenberg. The boys of the village were all agog with -excitement, and could hardly be prevented by their parents from going -too near the hill. In the afternoon a number of men gathered at an inn -in the upper village, just at the foot of the labouring rocks, to watch -the falls. They called to Meinrad Rhyner, as he passed, carrying a -cheese from an alp, to join them, but he refused, 'not fearing for -himself, but for the cheese.' Another group of persons assembled in a -relative's house to celebrate a christening. A few houses immediately -below the quarry were emptied, but the people from them did not move -far. At four o'clock Schoolmaster Wyss was standing at his window, watch -in hand, registering the falls and the time of their occurrence. -Huntsman Elmer was on his doorstep looking at the quarry through a -telescope. Every one was more or less on the _qui vive_, but none -foresaw danger to himself. - -"Many of the people in the lower village, called Muesli, which was the -best part of a mile distant from the quarry, and separated from it by a -large flat area, were quite uninterested. They were making coffee, -milking cows, and doing the like small domestic business. - -"Suddenly, at a quarter past five, a mass of the mountain broke away -from the Plattenbergkopf. The ground bent and broke up, the trees upon -it nodded, and folded together, and the rock engulfed them in its bosom -as it crashed down over the quarry, shot across the streams, dashing -their water in the air, and spread itself out upon the flat. A -greyish-black cloud hovered for a while over the ruin, and slowly passed -away. No one was killed by this fall, though the _debris_ reached within -a dozen yards of the inn where the sightseers were gathered. The -inhabitants of the upper village now began to be a little frightened. -They made preparations for moving the aged and sick persons, and some of -their effects. People also came up from the lower villages to help, and -to see the extent of the calamity. Others came together to talk, and the -visitors who had quitted the inn returned to it. Some went into their -houses to shut the windows and keep out the dust. No one was in any -hurry. - -"This first fall came from the east side of the Plattenbergkopf; -seventeen minutes later a second and larger fall descended from the west -side. The gashes made by the two united below the peak, and left its -enormous mass isolated and without support. The second fall must have -been of a startling character, for Schoolmaster Wyss forgot his watch -after it. It overwhelmed the inn and four other houses, killed a score -of persons, and drove terror into all beholders, so that they started -running up the opposite hill. Oswald Kubli, one of the last to leave the -inn, saw this fall from close at hand. He was standing outside the inn -when he heard some one cry out: 'My God, here comes the whole thing -down!' Every one fled, most making for the Dueniberg. 'I made four or -five strides, and then a stone struck Geiger and he fell without a word. -Pieces from the ruined inn flew over my head. My brother Jacob was -knocked down by them.' Again a dark cloud of dust enveloped the ruin. As -it cleared off, Huntsman Elmer could see, through his glass, the people -racing up the hill (the Dueniberg) 'like a herd of terrified chamois.' -When they had reached a certain height most of them stood still and -looked back. Some halted to help their friends, others to take breath. - -"'Of those who were before me,' relates Meinrad Rhyner, 'some were for -turning back to the valley to render help, but I called to them to fly. -Heinrich Elmer was carrying boxes, and was only twenty paces behind me -when he was killed. There were also an old man and woman, who were -helping along their brother, eighty years old; they might have been -saved if they had left him. I ran by them, and urged them to hasten.' - -"Of all who took refuge on the Dueniberg, only six escaped destruction by -the third fall, and they held on their way, and went empty-handed. Ruin -overtook the kind and the covetous together. - -"At this time, before the third fall, fear came also upon the cattle. A -cow, grazing far down the valley, bellowed aloud and started running for -the hillside with tail out-straightened. She reached a place of safety -before her meadow was overwhelmed. Cats and chickens likewise saved -themselves, and two goats sought and found salvation on the steps of the -parsonage. - -"During the four minutes that followed the second fall every one seems -to have been running about, with a tendency, as the moments passed, to -conclude that the worst was over. Then those who were watching the -mountain from a distance beheld the whole upper portion of the -Plattenbergkopf, 10,000,000 cubic metres of rock, suddenly shoot from -the hillside. The forest upon it bent 'like a field of corn in the -wind,' before being swallowed up. 'The trees became mingled together -like a flock of sheep.' The hillside was all in movement, and 'all its -parts were playing together.' The mass slid, or rather shot down, with -extraordinary velocity, till its foot reached the quarry. Then the upper -part pitched forward horizontally, straight across the valley and on to -the Dueniberg. People in suitable positions could at this moment clearly -see through beneath it to the hillside beyond. They also saw the people -in the upper village, and on the Dueniberg, racing about wildly. No -individual masses of rock could be seen in the avalanche, except from -near at hand; it was a dense cloud of stone, sharply outlined below, -rounded above. The falling mass looked so vast that Schoolmaster Wyss -thought it was going to fill up the whole valley. A cloud of dust -accompanied it, and a great wind was flung before it. This wind swept -across the valley and overthrew the houses in its path 'like haycocks.' -The roofs were lifted first, and carried far, then the wooden portions -of the houses were borne bodily through the air, 'just as an autumn -storm first drives off the leaves and then the dead branches themselves -from the trees.' In many cases wooden ruins were dropped from the air on -to the top of the stone _debris_ when the fall was at an end. -Eye-witnesses say that trees were blown about 'like matches,' that -houses were 'lifted through the air like feathers,' and 'thrown like -cards against the hillside,' 'that they bent, trembled, and then broke -up like little toys' before the avalanche came to them. Hay, furniture, -and the bodies of men were mixed with the house-ruins in the air. Some -persons were cast down by the blast and raised again. Others were -carried through the air and deposited in safe positions; others, again, -were hurled upward to destruction and dropped in a shattered state as -much as a hundred metres away. Huntsman Elmer relates as follows: - -"'My son Peter was in Muesli (nearly a mile from the quarry) with his -wife and child. He sought to escape with them by running. On coming to a -wall, he took the child from his wife and leaped over. Turning round, he -saw the woman reach out her hand to another child. At that moment the -wind lifted him, and he was borne up the hillside. My married daughter, -also in Muesli, fled with two children. She held the younger in her arms -and led the other. This one was snatched away from her, but she found -herself, not knowing how, some distance up the hillside, lying on the -ground face downwards, with the baby beneath her, both uninjured.' - -"The avalanche, as has been said, shot with incredible swiftness -horizontally across the valley. It pitched on to the Dueniberg, struck it -obliquely, and was thus deflected down the level and fertile -valley-floor, which it covered in a few seconds, to the distance of -nearly a mile and over its whole width, with a mass of rock _debris_ -more than 30 feet thick. Most of the people on the hillside were -instantly killed, the avalanche falling on to them and crushing them -flat, 'as an insect is crushed into a red streak under a man's foot.' -Only six persons here escaped. Two of them were almost reached by the -rocks, the others were whirled aloft through the air and deposited in -different directions. One survivor describes how the dust-cloud overtook -him, 'and came between him and his breath!' He sank face downwards on -the ground, feeling powerless to go further. Looking back, he saw -'stones flying above the dust-cloud. In a moment all seemed to be over. -I stood up and climbed a few yards to a spring of water to wash out the -dust, which filled my mouth and nose' (all survivors on the Dueniberg had -the same experience). 'All round was dark and buried in dust.' - -"It was only when the avalanche had struck the Dueniberg and began to -turn aside from it--the work of a second or two--that the people in the -lower village, far down along the level plain, had any suspicion that -they were in danger. Twenty seconds later all was over. Some of them who -were on a bridge had just time to run aside, not a hundred yards, and -were saved, but most were killed where they stood. The avalanche swept -away half the village. Its sharply defined edge cut one house in two. -All within the edge were destroyed, all without were saved. Almost the -only persons wounded were those in the bisected house. Huntsman Elmer -with his telescope, and Schoolmaster Wyss with his watch, whose houses -were just beyond the area of ruin, beheld the dust-cloud come rolling -along, 'like smoke from a cannon's mouth, but black,' filling the whole -width of the flat valley to about twice the height of a house. The din -seemed to them not very great, and the wind, which, in front of the -cloud, carried the houses away like matchwood, did not reach them. -Others describe the crash and thunder of the fall as terrific; it -affected people differently. All agree that it swallowed up every other -sound, so that shrieks of persons near at hand were inaudible. The mass -seemed to slide or shoot along the ground rather than to roll. One or -two men had a race for life and won it, but most failed to escape who -were not already in a place of safety. Fridolin Rhyner, an -eleven-year-old boy, kept his head better than any one else in the -village, and succeeded in eluding the fall. He saw, too, 'how Kaspar -Zentner reached the bridge as the fall took place, and how he started -running as fast as he could, but was caught by the flood of rocks near -Rhyner's house; he jumped aside, however, into a field, limped across -it, got over the wall into the road, and so just escaped.' - -"The last phase of the catastrophe is the hardest to imagine, and was -the most difficult to foresee. The actual facts are these. Ten million -cubic metres of rock fell down a depth (on an average) of about 450 -metres, shot across the valley and up the opposite (Dueniberg) slope to a -height of 100 metres, where they were bent 25 deg. out of their first -direction, and poured, almost like a liquid, over a horizontal plane, -covering it, uniformly, throughout a distance of 1500 metres and over an -area of about 900,000 square metres to a depth of from 10 to 20 metres. -The internal friction of the mass and the friction between it and the -ground were insignificant forces compared with the tremendous momentum -that was generated by the fall. The stuff flowed like a liquid. No -wonder the parson, seeing the dust-cloud rolling down the valley, -thought it was only dust that went so far. His horror, when the cloud -cleared off and he beheld the solid grey carpet, beneath which one -hundred and fifteen of his flock were buried with their houses and their -fields, may be imagined. He turned his eyes to the hills, and lo! the -familiar Plattenbergkopf had vanished and a hole was in its place. - -"The roar of the fall ceased suddenly. Silence and stillness supervened. -Survivors stood stunned where they were. Nothing moved. Then a great cry -and wailing arose in the part of the village that was left. People began -to run wildly about, some down the valley, some up. As the dust-cloud -grew thinner the wall-like side of the ruin appeared. It was quite dry. -All the grass and trees in the neighbourhood were white with dust. Those -who beheld the catastrophe from a distance hurried down to look for -their friends. Amongst them was Burkhard Rhyner, whose house was -untouched at the edge of the _debris_. He ran to it and found, he said, -'the doors open, a fire burning in the kitchen, the table laid, and -coffee hot in the coffee-pot, but no living soul was left.' All had run -forth to help or see, and been overwhelmed--wife, daughter, son, son's -wife, and two grandchildren. 'I am the sole survivor of my family.' Few -were the wounded requiring succour; few the dead whose bodies could be -recovered. Here and there lay a limb or a trunk. On the top of one of -the highest _debris_ mounds was a head severed from its body, but -otherwise uninjured. Every dead face that was not destroyed wore a look -of utmost terror. The crushed remains of a youth still guarded with -fragmentary arms the body of a little child. There were horrors enough -for the survivors to endure. The memory of them is fresh in their minds -to the present day. - -"Such was the great catastrophe of Elm. The hollow in the hills, whence -the avalanche fell, can still be seen, and the pile of ruin against and -below the Dueniberg; but almost all the rest of the _debris_-covered area -has been reclaimed and now carries fields, which were ripening to -harvest when I saw them. The fallen rocks, some big as houses, have been -blasted level; soil has been carried from afar and spread over the ruin. -A channel, 40 feet deep or more, has been cut through it for the river, -so that the structure of the rock-blanket can still be seen. The roots -of young trees now grasp stones that took part in that appalling flight -from their old bed of thousands of years to their present place of -repose. The valley has its harvests again, and the villagers go about -their work as their forefathers did, but they remember the day of their -visitation, and to the stranger coming amongst them they tell the tragic -tale with tears in their eyes and white horror upon their faces." - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -SOME TERRIBLE EXPERIENCES - - -All must have noticed, summer after summer, in the daily papers, a -recital from time to time under some such heading as, "Perils of the -Alps," of a variety of disasters to Germans or Austrians on mountains -the names of which are unfamiliar to English people or even to English -climbers. Many young men, of little leisure and of slight means, develop -a passionate love for the peaks of their native land. The minor ranges -of Austria and Germany offer few difficulties to really first-class, -properly equipped parties, but nasty places can be found on most of -them, and the very fact that they do not boast of glaciers removes the -chief argument against solitary ascents. - -The Rax, near Vienna, is a mountain which can be reached in a few hours -from that city, and while a good path has been laid out to the summit, -many other routes requiring climbing--by climbing I mean the use of the -hands--are available for the hardier class of tourists. One route in -particular, that from the Kaiserbrunn through the Wolfsthal, appears to -be really difficult, and is unfit for a man to ascend alone unless he is -a climber of great skill. A terrible experience fell to the lot of a -young Viennese compositor, employed on the _Neue Freie Presse_, and by -name Emil Habl. He set out by himself to make the expedition referred -to, and, having fallen and broken his leg, he managed, thanks to his -pluck and endurance, to escape with his life. "Despite injuries which -made it impossible for him to stand," says a writer in one of Messrs -Newnes' publications, from which I am courteously permitted to quote, -"he yet succeeded in conveying himself from the scene of his accident -into the valley in the neighbourhood of human dwellings. Three dreadful -days and three awful nights lasted that memorable descent--a descent -which can easily be made in two hours by any one able to walk. It may -almost certainly be said that the case is without a parallel in the -annals of Alpine accidents." - -Herr Habl had ascended the Rax on previous occasions, and twice before -by the Wolfsthal. It is the custom on many of the easier Austrian -mountains to mark the way by painted strips on the rocks. These are -sometimes very useful, but occasionally they tempt the tourist into -tracks which may be beyond his powers, or lure him on till, at last, -losing sight of them, he is induced to strike out a route--and perhaps -an impracticable one--for himself. The Wolfsthal route up the Rax is -marked in green, but the paint had worn off in many places, and after a -time Herr Habl could no longer trace it. At last the way was barred by a -precipice, but while pausing in uncertainty beneath it, the climber -noticed two iron clamps fixed far apart on the face of the cliff, and -argued that they must at one time have supported ladders and formed, -perhaps, part of a hunter's path. He made an attempt to scramble up the -rock, in spite of the absence of the ladder, but when more than 30 feet -up saw that it was impossible to scale it. He therefore determined to -return, but a loose stone, giving way beneath him, he was precipitated -from his precarious hold, and fell with a crash straight to the bottom. -This happened at about 7.30 A.M., and for a long time he lay -unconscious. When he came to himself again he was suffering greatly. - -"The first thing I noticed," he says, "was a terrible pain in my right -leg, my head, and left side; I was also bleeding profusely from several -wounds. At the same time, considering the fearful fall I had had, I felt -thankful I had not been killed outright. On trying to get up I -discovered, to my utter horror, that I had broken my right shin-bone. It -was quite impossible to rise. The break was about 6 inches below the -knee, and at the first glance I knew it to be a very bad fracture. It -was what the doctors call an 'open' fracture--that is, the bone -projected through the skin." - -It was in vain that he shouted for help. Tourists seldom pass that way, -and it was useless to expect any one to hear him. To make matters worse, -the weather had changed, and rain now fell heavily. But Herr Habl did -not lose courage. He writes: "Unless I wanted miserably to die a -long-drawn-out, hideous death from hunger and thirst, I knew _I must -save myself_. I decided not to lose another moment in fruitless -brooding, and waiting, and shouting, but to act at once. - -"I perceived that first of all I must set my broken leg and bandage it -in some rough fashion. In spite of the agony it caused me, I rolled over -and over the ground in different directions like a bale of goods--a few -yards here and a few yards there--until I had collected a sufficient -quantity of fallen branches, bits of fir and moss; this strange -collecting process took me some hours. The next thing was to tear off -the sleeves of my shirt and such other parts of my underwear as I could -spare. On my mountain excursions I always took with me a box containing -iodoform gauze and cambric; and now these things were more than welcome. - -"At last, then, I was ready to begin the operation. But, good heavens, -what agony! My deadliest enemy I would not wish such excruciating pains -as I suffered when setting the poor splintered bone--which, be it -remembered, was not broken straight across. The dreadful splinters, -indeed, dug deep into my flesh. Not regarding the pain (although nearly -fainting therewith) I exerted my whole force, and at last succeeded in -getting the bone into what, as far as I could judge, was its right -position. Then I wound the iodoform gauze round it, and over that I put -the cambric, the bits of underclothing, and a layer of moss. Next in the -queer operation came my alpenstock and some boughs in place of splints; -and finally I tied the whole together with the string, my hat-line, and -neck-tie." - -During the rest of the day the agonising descent continued, down rocks -which were difficult even for a sound man to ascend. As evening -approached Herr Habl bethought him of the need of food, but, alas! all -was gone from his knapsack, doubtless left at the spot where the -bandages had been put on. To regain this point was out of the question, -so berries and leaves were resorted to, to appease the craving of -hunger. - -That night was passed in pain and weariness. The rain never ceased, the -poor wounded man was soaked to the skin. The next day, from dawn to dark -the fearful descent continued, and was followed by another night of -indescribable misery. The morning after Herr Habl could hardly drag -himself a yard, and the temptation to lie down and await the end was -very great. Still, for the sake of his parents at home, he continued his -efforts, though bleeding now from the contact of the sharp rocks over -which he pushed himself in a half-lying, half-sitting posture. By four -o'clock that afternoon it seemed as if human endurance could bear no -more, and for two hours he lay in an awful apathy he could not shake -off. Then, when all hope seemed over, help came, for he heard the sound -of human voices, and this so stirred him that once more he began to -crawl downward, though unable to obtain any reply to his cries for -assistance. Another night passed, and during it, for the first time, he -got some sleep. The next morning, he once more dragged his poor -lacerated body downwards and at last came in sight of some houses. -Calling feebly for help, he was delighted beyond measure to receive an -answer, and soon he was carried to Hotel Kaiserbrunn, and the same -evening transported to the hospital at Vienna. He concludes his most -interesting account by remarking: "I do not think that my accident, -terrible as it is, has cured me of my love of mountaineering. But -certainly the remembrance of those three terrible days and nights will -deter me from again undertaking difficult climbs by myself." - -[Illustration: A GLACIER LAKE. By Royston Le Blond.] - -[Illustration: TAKING OFF THE ROPE AT THE END OF THE CLIMB.] - -[Illustration: AMONGST THE SERACS.] - -[Illustration: WATER AT LAST. - -_To face p. 297._] - -An adventure, having a happier termination, befell some friends of mine -in the Bregaglia group, owing to the marking of a route with paint. -The district was but little known to them, so they were glad to follow -where the marks led. One of the party, writing in _The Alpine Journal_, -says: - -"The descent began by a grass ledge. After a few yards this was suddenly -closed by overhanging rocks. Francois, who was first, appeared to us to -plunge down a precipice. He answered our criticism by pointing to the -red triangles. They indicated the only means of advance. It was -requisite to go down a dozen feet of nearly vertical rock by the help of -two grass tufts, and then for several yards to walk across a horizontal -crack which gave foot-hold varying from 2 inches to nothing. Nominal -support--help in balance--could be gained at first by digging axes into -grass overhead; further on hand-hold was obtainable. Francois walked -across without a moment's hesitation, but we did not despise the rope. -This _mauvais pas_ would not, perhaps, trouble younger cragsmen. It came -upon us unprepared and when somewhat tired. But to indicate a route -including such an obstacle to unsuspecting tourists as a Station Path is -surely rash. A practical joke that may lead to fatal results should only -be resorted to under exceptional circumstances--as, for example, in the -case of an hotel bore. There can be little doubt that in this instance -the Milanese section entrusted their paint-pot to a conscious, if -unconscientious, humorist; for we found afterwards that he had continued -his triangles through the village, along the high road, and finished up -only on the ticket office." - -The following terrible experience did not, it is true, happen to a party -of mountaineers, but as _The Alpine Journal_, from which I take my -account, has considered a notice of it appropriate to its pages, I -include it amongst my tales. - -"A distinguished aeronaut, Captain Charbonnet, of Lyons, married a young -girl from Turin. On the evening of their wedding, in October, 1893, they -set out in Captain Charbonnet's balloon 'Stella,' and covered about 10 -miles on their way towards Lyons. - -"Next morning, accompanied by two young Italians named Durando and -Botto, one of whom had made many previous ascents with Captain -Charbonnet, they started again. Stormy weather seemed to be brewing, and -after rising to a height of 3000 metres they were caught in a current. -At Saluggia they nearly touched ground, then leapt up again to 4000, and -presently to 6000 metres. About 2.30 P.M. the balloon began to descend -rapidly, and they had some difficulty in stopping it at 3000 metres. - -[Illustration: The balloon "Stella" starting from Zermatt to make the -first passage of the Alps by balloon. - -_To face page 293._] - -[Illustration: A moment after the balloon started.] - -"Here they were in dense clouds, and bitterly cold; quite ignorant, -moreover, of their position. Captain Charbonnet made his crew lie -down in the car, himself leaning out in order to try if he could catch a -glimpse of any point from which he could learn his bearings. The balloon -was drifting at a great rate, and nothing could be done to check it. -Presently there was a shock, and Captain Charbonnet was thrown to the -bottom of the car, by a heavy blow over his left eye. - -"The balloon rebounded, and dashing across a gully struck the other side -of it, and it finally settled down on a steep rocky spur on the east -side of the Bessanese (3632 metres = 11,917 feet), just above the small -glacier of Salau. It had struck the wall of the mountain which faces the -Rifugio Gastaldi, at a height of about 3000 metres (9843 feet). - -"The aeronauts reached the ground a good deal shaken and bruised, but -none of them, except the leader, suffering from any serious injuries.... -Their sole provision was one bottle of wine; but they were fairly well -off for covering, and they cut up the balloon to supply deficiencies. In -the night a violent storm came on, to add to their misery. In spite of -his injuries, Captain Charbonnet kept up the spirits of his companions -as well as might be, but towards morning his powers failed, and when day -dawned his young wife, a girl of eighteen, had some difficulty in -bringing him round. - -"They started to descend the snow-slope, Durando going first, and making -steps to the best of his power with his feet 'and with a long key which -he happened to have in his pocket.' Of course they had neither nails nor -poles; and, by a fatal imprudence, they did not tie themselves together, -though ropes must have been in plenty in the wreck of the balloon. - -"Presently Charbonnet slipped. He was held up by his wife and Botto; but -a few minutes later he disappeared into a hidden crevasse. The others -could see him far below, but as he neither moved nor answered their -call, they rightly assumed that he was beyond the reach of any human -help, and proceeded downwards. - -"With infinite difficulty, owing to their utter ignorance of the -country, and after another night spent in the open air, they found a -path which brought them to the hut under the Rocca Venoni. Thence a -shepherd guided them to the Cantina della Mussa, where they were at -first taken for deserters or spies; the lady, it should be said, had -been obliged to put on a suit of her husband's clothes, her own having -been torn to pieces. - -"The sight of her hair and bracelets convinced the inhabitants of the -true state of the case; a telegram was sent to Turin, and a message to -Balme, and a search party came up from the latter place in the -afternoon. Captain Charbonnet's body was recovered the next day. It was -found at the bottom of a crevasse more than 60 feet deep, and completely -doubled up; but medical examination showed that his death was primarily -due to the injury received when the balloon first struck." - -The first passage of the Alps by balloon was made in September 1903, by -Captain Spelterini, of Zuerich, accompanied by Dr Hermann Seiler and -another friend. They started from Zermatt, crossed the Mischabel group, -passed over the valley of Saas, then rose above the Weissmies range, and -approached the Lago Maggiore so closely that they were able to converse -with the passengers of a steamer. They then rose again and spent the -night above the mountains not far from the Gotthard. The next day it -would have been possible to clear the Bernese Alps and descend somewhere -near Lucerne, but though Dr Seiler, who is a climber and was fully -equipped for a descent above the snow line, urged the attempt being made -to cross the chain, Captain Spelterini and his friend, unused to the -aspect of the higher peaks, considered it more prudent to descend, and -so the expedition came to an end after twenty hours aloft, during which -no discomfort from cold was experienced. - -When an accident happens in the Alps involving loss of life, it is not -difficult to learn whatever facts may be known with regard to it, but -when climbers have a narrow escape from death the occurrence is often -hushed up and nothing said or written about the matter. And yet it is -just the narrow escapes that furnish the most interesting Alpine -narratives. Amongst them are few more exciting than a mishap on the -Matterhorn which happened in 1895, and is admirably described by an -onlooker, Mr Ernest Elliot Stock, in the pages of one of Messrs Newnes' -periodicals, from which I am courteously permitted to quote a portion of -the tale. - -Mr Stock's party consisted of himself, his sister, Mr Grogan (the -well-known traveller who first crossed Africa from South to North), Mr -Broadbent, and the guides, P. A. and Alois Biner, Peter Perrin, and -Zurmatter. An American of no climbing experience, with Joseph Biner and -Felix Julen, was on the mountain at the same time, and both parties -having made the ascent by the ordinary route, were coming down the same -way, and had descended in safety to just below "Moseley's Platte" when -the incident which so nearly cost them their lives took place. They were -on a steep slope, and the American party was slightly in advance. Mr -Stock writes: - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE HOeRNLI RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE FURGG GLACIER.] - -[Illustration: JOSEPH BINER.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN HUT. - -_To face p. 302_] - -"We had been working slowly, and at a slight zig-zag, down this for some -150 feet, only one member of the party moving at a time, and keeping -carefully within the steps cut by the leader, when suddenly a flat -stone, some 6 inches across, became detached from a small pile either to -the side of or directly behind me--possibly loosened by our passage or -picked up by the rope as it tautened between myself and Peter Biner, who -came next. Peter's cry of warning was echoed by his brother at the tail -of the party, and I half turned to see it slipping past on the right. - -"Reaching out with my axe I endeavoured to stop it, but its impetus had -become too great. Getting upon its edge it rolled and struck a small -rock; then jumped some 20 feet down the ice-slope, narrowly missing -Perrin and 'America,' and struck again upon a larger and flatter rock, -when, amidst a flight of smaller stones, it bounded outwards and -downwards, striking the leading guide, Joseph Biner, full and square on -the head. He fell as though he had been shot, dragging 'America' after -him amidst a perfect shower of snow and stones. Julen, who came third, -with the greatest presence of mind drove his ice-axe hard and deep into -the ice, took a turn round it with his left arm, and, though dragged -violently from his steps, to our intense relief held on. - -"But we were in an awkward plight. Poor Joseph half lay, half hung, -without movement, at the end of some 30 feet of rope, bleeding copiously -from a deep gash in the head and another across the forehead caused by -his fall; 'America' clung to a small rock projecting from the snow, -beating a tattoo with his boots on the ice and wailing dismally; Julen -held the two by favour of his ice-axe and firmly planted feet only. For -a space no one moved, excepting to get such anchorage as was possible -upon the spur of the moment, each expecting a rope-jerk, the forerunner -of a swift and battered end in the ice-fall of the Furgg Glacier -thousands of feet below. - -"The guides for a time seemed utterly stunned by the catastrophe, and to -all suggestions could only reply with muttered prayers and exclamations. -So exasperating did this become at last, with the thought of the man -below bleeding to death, if not dead already, that Mr Grogan, who had -vainly been endeavouring to bring the guides to a sense of the position, -quietly slipped the rope, and, amid a storm of protest from them, -traversed out some distance to avoid a patch of loose stones, and -descended inwards again, cutting his steps as he went, till he reached a -spot immediately below the wounded man. Poor Joseph hung with his head -buried in a patch of snow, and in an extremely awkward position to reach -from above. Mr Grogan, however, refused to be daunted by the -difficulties, and we were treated to a fine piece of ice-craft during -his descent." - -After a little time Mr Grogan managed to cut a seat in the slope of ice -and placing the still breathing but insensible man in it, he bandaged -the wounds on his head, and before long had the satisfaction of seeing -him recover his senses. With great difficulty, as he was very weak and -shaken, poor Joseph was helped down the mountain, and at last every one -arrived safe and sound at the lower hut. - -There is no doubt that Joseph owed his life to Mr Grogan's skill, -promptness, and courage. Had the travellers in the party following -"America's" been of the usual type of tourist, who is hauled up and let -down the Matterhorn, one dare not think what would probably have been -the result, for the description Mr Stock gives of the behaviour of his -guides seems in no way exaggerated. I edit this account in sight of the -very spot where the accident occurred, and I have made careful enquiries -here as to the accuracy of the story, and am assured that it is true in -every detail. It is a pleasure to feel that a fellow-countryman should -show so brilliant an example to those who were not willing and probably -would have hardly been able to rescue their comrade, although to attempt -such a task was one of the prior obligations of their profession. - -To be bombarded by falling stones in the Alps is bad enough. To be -hurled from one's foot-hold by a flock of eagles seems to me even more -appalling. Though on one occasion, when on the slopes of a bleak and -rocky peak in Lapland, in company with my husband, a pair of eagles came -screaming so close to us that we drove them away by brandishing our -ice-axes and throwing stones at them, I did not till recently believe -that there could be positive danger to a climbing party from an -onslaught by these birds. It was only a few weeks ago that taking up one -of Messrs Newnes' publications I came upon an account of a tragedy in -the Maritime Alps caused by an attack from eagles. On applying to the -editor of the magazine in question, he kindly allowed me to make some -extracts from a striking article by Mons. Antoine Neyssel. This -gentleman with a friend, Mons. Joseph Monand, was making a series of -ascents in the Maritime Alps with Sospello as their headquarters. From -here they took a couple of guides and got all ready for a climb on the -following morning, 23rd July. During the evening the amazing news -reached them that a postman, while crossing a high pass, had been -attacked and nearly killed by eagles. They at once went into the cottage -where the poor man lay unconscious on two chairs, a pool of blood -beneath him and his clothes torn to ribbons. A few days later he died -from the terrible injuries he had received. - -Though much shocked at the sad event, the climbers believed that their -party of four would be quite safe, for each man had an ice-axe and some -carried rifles. So the next morning they set out, and, ascending higher -and higher, reached the glacier and put on the rope. They had forgotten -all about the ferocious birds when suddenly, as they traversed the upper -edge of a crevasse near the summit of their peak, the leading guide -stopped with an exclamation of horror. Close to them the ground was -strewn with feathers and marked with blood, doubtless the spot where the -postman was attacked. They passed on, however, and remembering that they -were a party of four, felt reassured. But soon after weird cries came to -their ears from below, followed by the whirr and beating of great wings. -Looking cautiously over the abyss, they saw a fight of eagles in -progress; feathers flew in the air and strange sounds came out of the -seething mass. It seemed to rise towards them, and in their insecure -position on the edge of a crevasse, they were badly placed to resist an -attack. The foot-hold was of frozen and slippery snow. Suddenly the -eagles burst up and around them. The guides immediately cut the rope and -each person did what he could to save himself. "Wherever possible," says -Mons. Neyssel, "we simply raced over the frozen snow like maniacs. In -another moment they dashed upon us like an avalanche. I heard a shot--I -suppose Monand fired, but I did not: I do not know why. The attack was -quite too dreadful for words. Speaking for myself, I remember that the -eagles struck me with stunning force with their wings, their hooked -beaks, and strong talons. Every part of my body seemed to be assailed -simultaneously. It was a fierce struggle for life or death. Strangely -enough, I remember nothing of what happened to my companions. I neither -saw nor heard anything of them after the first great rush of the eagles. -It is a miracle I was not hurled to death into the crevasse. - -"Do not ask me how long this weird battle lasted. It may have been five -or six minutes, or a quarter of an hour. I do not know. I grew feebler, -and felt almost inclined to give up the struggle, when the blood began -to trickle down my face and nearly blinded me. I knew that every moment -might be my last, and that I might be hurled into the crevasse. -Strangely enough, the prospect did not appal me. From this time onward I -defended myself almost mechanically, inclined every moment to give up -and lie down. - -"I gave no thought to the guides and my poor friend Monand. If I am -judged harshly for this, I regret it; but I could not help it. All at -once I heard loud, excited voices, but thought that these were merely -fantastic creations of my own brain. In a moment or two, however, I -could distinguish a number of men laying about them fiercely with -sticks, and beating off the eagles." - -The villagers, having watched the ascent through a telescope had come to -the rescue and had saved the lives of the writer and his two guides. His -poor friend, however, was dashed into the crevasse, at the bottom of -which his body was found five days later. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -FALLING STONES AND FALLING BODIES - - -I am indebted to the editor of _The Cornhill_ and the author of an -article entitled "The Cup and the Lip" for permission to reprint -portions of a paper containing much shrewd wisdom, several accounts of -narrow escapes, and withal of a wittiness and freshness that brings to -the reader a keen blast of Alpine air and the memory, if by chance he be -a climber, of his own early days upon the mountains. - -[Illustration: A HOT DAY IN SUMMER ON A MOUNTAIN TOP.] - -[Illustration: A SUMMIT NEAR SAAS.] - -[Illustration: LUNCHEON ON THE WAY TO THE HUT IN WINTER.] - -[Illustration: LUNCHEON IN SUMMER ON THE TOP OF A GLACIER PASS. - -_To face p. 310._] - -The writer, after remarking that even in these days when the traveller, -by the purchase of a few climbing requisites, is inclined to consider -himself a mountaineer before he has ever set foot on a peak, goes on to -say that, in reality, "for the most of us the craft is long to learn, -the conquering hard. And in the experience of many there are two -distinct phases. There is the time when, flushed with youth and victory, -you seem to go on from strength to strength, faster from year to year, -more confident in foot and hand, more scornful of the rope which you -have seen so often used, not as a means of safety, but as an -assistance to the progression of the weaker brethren, until one day your -foot unaccountably finds the step too small, or the bit of rock comes -away in your hand, or the outraged spirit of the mountains smites you -suddenly with a stone, and all is changed. Henceforth every well-worn -and half-despised precaution has a new meaning for you; it becomes a -point of honour to walk circumspectly, to turn the rope round every -helpful projection when the leader moves, and to mark and keep your -distance; and you begin to catch a little of the wisdom of your fathers. -It is not until the slip comes--as it comes to all--that you believe a -slip is possible; and were it not for slips the continual advance of cup -to lip might become in time monotonous and irksome, and mountaineering -nothing but a more laborious and elaborate form of walking up a damp -flight of stairs. But when it has come, and there has passed away the -result of the consequent shock to your self-esteem, and to other even -more sensitive portions of your person, there succeeds a new pride of -achievement, and you will have the advantages of the converted sinner -over the ninety-and-nine just persons whose knickerbockers are still -unriven. Furthermore, you will have commenced the graduate stage of your -mountaineering education. Unlucky, too, will you be if your experience -has not given you something more than a juster estimate of your own -moral and physical excellence; for your misfortune, if you have chosen -your companions aright, will suddenly turn your grumbling hireling into -a friend as gentle and as patient as a nurse, and disclose in those who -were your friends qualities of calm and steadfastness never revealed in -the fret of the valley; while, if you need wine and oil for your wounds, -when you reach home again, you will find in the inn some English doctor, -asking nothing better than to devote the best part of his holiday to the -gratuitous healing of the stranger. - -[Illustration: A TEDIOUS SNOW SLOPE TO ASCEND.] - -[Illustration: A SITTING GLISSADE AND A QUICK DESCENT.] - -[Illustration: A GLACIER-CAPPED SUMMIT.] - -[Illustration: ITALY TO THE LEFT, SWITZERLAND TO THE RIGHT. - -_To face p. 312._] - -"The form of my own awakening was not such as to require wine or oil or -consolation, and indeed, had I spoken of it at the time, would have -scarcely escaped ridicule. We had reached the summit of our pass, and -the guides and myself had decided that the steep wall of snow on the -further side was an admirable place for a glissade. Accordingly, we went -through the inevitable ritual of the summit, consumed as much sour bread -and wine as we could, with unerring inaccuracy applied the wrong names -to all the newly disclosed mountain-tops, adjusted the rope and prepared -for the descent. Unfortunately, we omitted to explain the particular -form of pleasure in which we were about to indulge to my companion, who -was ignorant alike of mountaineering and the German tongue. The result -was simple: the second guide, who was in front, set off with his feet -together and his axe behind him; I followed in as correct an imitation -of his attitude as I could induce my body to assume; but the novice -stood still on the crest of the pass to 'await in fitting silence the -event,' and the rope tightened. The jerk, after nearly cutting me in -two, laid me on my back in the snow, and was then transmitted to the -guide, who was also pulled off his feet and plunged head foremost down. -Our combined weights drew after us both my companion and the chief -guide, who was taken unawares, and both came crushing upon me. We rolled -over and over, mutually pounding one another as we rolled; hats and -spectacles and axes preceded us, and huge snowballs followed in our -wake, until, breathless and humiliated, we had cleared the _schrund_, -and came to an ignominious halt on the flat snow below. - -"This was no very rude introduction to my climbing deficiencies, but -before the end of the season I had felt fear at the pit of my stomach. -We (that is A. T. and myself) had scrambled up an Austrian mountain, -and, on our way down, had come to where the little glacier intervenes -between the precipice and the little moraine heaps above the forest. The -glacier would hardly deserve the name in any other part of the Alps, so -small is it; but it makes up for what it lacks in size by its exceeding -steepness; the hardness of its ice, and the ferocity (if one may -attribute personal characteristics to Nature) of the rock walls which -keep in its stream on either hand, hem it in so closely that I think it -must be always in deep shadow, even in the middle of a June day. - -"Here you must cross it very nearly on a level, and then skirt down its -further side between ice and rock for a few feet before you come to a -suitable place for the crossing of the big crevasse below you; and then -a short slide down old avalanche _debris_ shoots you deliciously into -the sun again. The crossing of the glacier in the steps cut by the -numerous parties who have passed on previous days is an extremely simple -affair. But you must not hurry, for a slip could not be checked, and -would probably finish in the before-mentioned crevasse. We started, -however, in some fear; for a party ascending the mountains favoured us -with continual showers of stones of all sizes, and the higher they -climbed the more viciously came their artillery. Hence I was nervous and -apt to go carelessly when we reached the middle of the ice, and here the -noise began. I heard a strange, whizzing, whirring noise which sounded -strangely familiar, accompanied by a physical shiver on my part and a -curious knocking together of the knees; again and again it came, -followed each time by a slight dull thud; and, looking at the rocks -below us on each side, I saw a little white puff of dust rising at -every concussion. Then I knew why the sound seemed familiar. I was -reminded how, as a panting schoolboy, I had toiled up a long dusty road -to a certain down with a rifle much too large for me, in the vain hope -of shooting my third-class, and how, as we bruised our shoulders at the -200 yards' range, another young gentleman firing at the 400 yards at the -parallel range on the left, had mistaken his mark and fired across our -heads at the target beyond us on the right. Everything was present: the -indescribable whirring of the bullet, its horrible invisibility while it -flew, and the grey little cloud as it flattened itself on the white -paint of the target. The sensation was horrible, the tendency to hurry -irresistible, and but for my companion I should have risked slip and -crevasse and everything to get out of the line of fire. But my companion -remained absolutely steady; while he poured forth curses in every -language and every _patois_ ever spoken in the Italian Tyrol, he still -moved his feet as deliberately, improved the steps with as much care and -minuteness as if he were a Chamonix guide conducting a Frenchman on the -Mer de Glace. I know he felt the position as acutely as I did, for when, -a week later, we had to cross the same place under a similar fire, and -the third member of the party was sent on in front with a large rope to -recut the steps, he turned to me with impressive simplicity, and said, -'_Adesso e quello in grande pericolo_. If he is hit, we cannot save -him.' How long we took to cross I do not know. But when at last we -reached the other bank we cast the rope off with one impulse, and, -bending under the shelter of the rocks, ran where I had found climbing -hard in the morning, jumped the _bergschrund_, fell and rolled down the -snow under a final volley from the mountain, and lay long by the stream -panting and safe. - -"I suspect the danger here was far more apparent than real. My next -adventure with a falling stone was more real than I like to think of. -Four of us had been scrambling round the rocks beside the Ventina -Glacier, and were returning to our camp to lunch. By bad luck, as it -turned out, I reached level ground first, and, lying on my back amongst -great boulders, watched with amusement the struggles of my companions -who were about a hundred feet above me, apparently unable to get up or -down. They were screaming to me, but the torrent drowned their voices, -and I smoked my pipe in contentment. _Suave mari magno._ At last they -moved, and with them the huge rock which they had been endeavouring to -uphold and shouting to me to beware of. It crashed down towards me, but -I determined to stop where I was. The roughness of the ground would have -hindered my escape to any distance, and I calculated on stepping quickly -aside when my enemy had declared himself for any particular path of -attack. So I did, but the stone at that moment broke in pieces, and, -quick as I was with desperation, one fragment was quicker still. It -caught me, glancing as I turned between the shoulder and the elbow, only -just touching me, as I suppose, for the bone was quite unhurt. Up I went -into the air and down I came among the stones, with all the wind knocked -out of me, large bruises all over me, not hurt, but very much -frightened. - -[Illustration: UNPLEASANT GOING OVER LOOSE STONES.] - -[Illustration: ON THE CREST OF AN OLD MORAINE. - -_To face p. 317._] - -"Such experiences as this leave no very lasting impression, and might -just as easily happen were the party accompanied by the best of guides. -But I hardly think that any guide would have been crack-brained enough -to take part in two expeditions which taught me what it feels like to -slip on rock and ice respectively. The first slip took place during the -winter. With one companion I was climbing in a long and not very -difficult gully on a Welsh mountain. The frost had just broken, and -there was more water in the pitches than was quite pleasant. It was very -cold water, and my hands, which had been frost-bitten the week before, -were still swathed in bandages. Hence progress was very slow, and at -last my friend took the lead to spare me. He was climbing over a big -overhanging stone jammed between the walls of the gully and forming an -excellent spout for the water, which was thus poured conveniently down -his neck. I stood on the shelving floor of the gully in perfect safety, -and watched the shower-bath, which was gradually exhausting him. He -asked for his axe, and I, in a moment of madness, came near and handed -it up; his legs, which were all I could then see of him, were kicking in -the water about 5 feet above my head. What happened next I do not know, -but I shall always maintain that, seeing an eligible blade of grass -above him, he plunged the adze in and hauled with both hands. The blade -resented such treatment, and came out. Anyhow he fell on my head, and we -commenced a mad career down the way we had ascended, rather rolling than -falling, striking our heads and backs against the rocks, and apparently -destined for the stony valley upon which we had looked down between our -legs for hours. People who have escaped drowning say that, in what was -their struggle for life, their minds travelled back over their whole -history. I know that my brain at this moment suddenly acquired an -unusual strength. In a few seconds we were safe, but in those seconds -there was time for centuries of regret. There was no fear; that was to -come later. But I felt vividly that I was present as a spectator of my -own suicide, and thought myself a feeble kind of fool. Had it been on -the Dru or the Meije, I thought, it might have been worth it, but, -half-drowned, to plunge a poor 40 feet over the next pitch on a hill -not 3000 feet high, with a carriage road in sight, and a girl driving in -the cows for milking in Nant Francon! We did not roll far, and stuck -between the walls of the gully, where they narrowed. Then I arose and -shook myself, unhurt. My companion made me light his pipe, which cheered -me very much, and we each partook of an enormous mutton sandwich. Help -was near, for another party of three was climbing in the next gully, and -came to our shouts; one ran down to the farm for a hurdle, the rest -began the descent. For hours we seemed to toil, for my companion, though -with admirable fortitude he supported the pain of movement, had -temporarily no power over his legs and the lower part of his body. I -could do little, but the others worked like blacks, and just at dark we -reached the farm and the ministrations of a Welsh doctor, who told my -friend, quite erroneously, that there was nothing the matter with him, -pointed out a swelling on my face as big as a pigeon's egg, which, he -said, would probably lead to erysipelas, and then departed into the -darkness. - -"A fall on ice has something in it more relentless, though, until the -last catastrophe, less violent. We had all been victims to the -flesh-pots of the valley, and were, perhaps, hardly fit for a long -ice-slope, when we began to cut up the last few feet to gain the _arete_ -of our mountain. The incline seemed to me very steep, and, third on the -rope, I was watching the leader at his labours, half pitying him for his -exertions, half envying him his immunity from the ice fragments which he -was sending down to me. Below me the fourth man had barely left the -great flat rock on which we had breakfasted; there was no reason to -think of danger; when to my horror I saw the leader cut a step, put out -his foot slowly, and then very slowly and deliberately sway over and -fall forwards and downwards against the ice. We were in a diagonal line, -but almost immediately beneath one another, and he swung quietly round -like a pendulum, his axe holding him to the slope, until he was -immediately beneath the second man. Very slowly, as it seemed, the rope -grew taut; the weight began to tug at his waist; and then he, too, -slowly and reflectively in the most correct mountaineering attitude, as -though he were embarking upon a well-considered journey, began to slide. -Now was the time for me to put into practice years of patient training. -I dug my toes in and stiffened my back, anchored myself to the ice, and -waited for the strain. It was an unconscionable time coming, and, when -it came, I still had time to think that I could bear it. Then the weight -of 27 stone in a remorseless way quietly pulled me from my standpoint, -as though my resistance were an impudence. Still, like the others, I -held my axe against the ice and struggled like a cat on a polished -floor, always seeing the big flat rock, and thinking of the bump with -which we should bound from it, and begin our real career through the -air; when suddenly the bump came and we all fell together in a heap on -to the rock and the fourth man, who had stepped back upon it, my -crampons running into his leg, and my axe, released from the pressure, -going off through the air on the very journey which I had anticipated -for us all. The others were for a fresh attack on the malicious -mountain; but I was of milder mood, and very soon, torn and wiser, we -were off on a slower but more convenient path to the valley than had -seemed destined for us a few minutes before. But our cup was not yet -full. Having no axe with which to check a slip, I was placed at the head -of the line, and led slowly down, floundering a good deal for want of my -usual support. The great couloir was seamed across with a gigantic -crevasse, the angle of the slope being so sharp that the upper half -overhung, and we had only crossed in the morning by standing on the -lower lip, cutting hand-holes in the upper, and shoving up the leader -from the shoulder of the second man: hence, in descending, our position -was similar to that of a man on the mantel-shelf who should wish to -climb down into the fire itself. We chose the obvious alternative of a -jump to the curb, which was, I suppose, about 15 feet below us and made -of steep ice with a deep and deceptive covering of snow. I jumped and -slid away with this covering, to be arrested in my course by a rude -jerk. I turned round indignant; but my companions were beyond my -reproaches. One by one, full of snow, eloquent, and bruised, they issued -slowly from the crevasse into which I had hurled them, and, heedless of -the humour of the situation, gloomily urged me downwards. - -"Some hours still passed before we reached our friendly Italian hut, -left some days before for a raid into Swiss territory; there on the -table were our provisions and shirts as we had left them, and a solemn -array of bottles full of milk carried up during our absence by our -shepherd friends; and there, on the pile, in stinging comment on our -late proceedings, lay a slip of paper, the tribute of some Italian -tourist, bearing the inscription 'Omaggio ai bravi Inglesi ignoti.' We -felt very much ashamed. - -"When the soup has been eaten and the pipes are lighted, and you sit -down outside your hut for the last talk before bed, you will find your -guides' tongues suddenly acquire a new eloquence, and, if you are a -novice at the craft, will be almost overwhelmed by the catalogue of -misfortune which they will repeat to you. And so, too, upon us in the -winter months comes the temptation to dwell on things done long ago and -ill done, and, as we write of the sport for others, we give a false -impression of peril and hardihood in things that were little more than -matter for a moment's laughter. I too must plead guilty to a well-meant -desire to make your flesh creep. - -[Illustration: AN AWKWARD BIT OF CLIMBING.] - -[Illustration: GUIDES AT ZERMATT.] - -[Illustration: A LARGE PARTY FOR A SMALL HUT.] - -[Illustration: AU REVOIR. - -_To face p. 322._] - -"Mountaineering by skilled mountaineers is about as dangerous as hunting -in a fair country, and requires about as much pluck as to cross from the -Temple to the Law Courts at midday. Difficult mountaineering is for the -unskilled about as dangerous as riding a vicious horse in a steeplechase -for a man who has never learnt to ride. But the tendency in those who -speak or write of it for the outer world who are not mountaineers is to -conceal a deficiency of charm of style by an attempt to slog in the -melodramatic, and I plead guilty at once. - -"So we think and write as though to us our passion for the hills were a -fancy of the summer, a mere flirtation. Yet no one has lost the first -bloom of his delight in Alpine adventure before the element of sternness -has come to mar his memory and bind more closely his affections. You -find the mildly Horatian presence of death somewhere near you, and that -at a moment when, whatever your age and strength, and whatever your -infirmities, you are at the full burst of youth; when Nature has been -kindest she has been most capricious, and has flaunted her relentless -savagery just when she has bent to kiss you. The weirdest rocks rise -from Italian gardens, and the forms of hill seem oldest when you are -most exultant--immortal age beside immortal youth. Yet is it not this, -'the sense of tears,' in things which are not mortal which must mark -your Alpine paths with memories as heavy and as definite as those -inscriptions which tell of obscure and sudden death on every hillside, -and invite your prayers for the woodcutter and the shepherd? You too -will have seen friends go out into the morning whom you have never -welcomed home. There is a danger, sometimes encountered recklessly, -sometimes ignorantly, but sometimes--hard as it may be to understand the -mood--not in the mere spirit of the idle youth, but met with and -overcome, or overcoming, in a resolution which knows no pleasure in -conquest save when the essay is fierce, and is calmly willing to pay the -penalty of failure. While for ourselves we enjoy the struggle none the -less because we have taken every care that we shall win, they freely -give all; and for such there is surely no law. While by every precept -and example we impress the old rules of the craft on our companions and -our successors, how can we find words of blame for those who have at -least paid the extreme forfeit, and found 'the sleep that is among the -lonely hills'? - -"The penalty for failure is death; not always exacted at the first -slip, for Nature is merciful and ofttimes doth relent; but surely -waiting for those who scorn the experience of others and slight her -majesty in wilfulness, in ignorance, in the obstinate following of a -fancy, in the vain pursuit of notoriety. The rules are known, and those -who break them, and by precept and example tempt to break them those -whom they should teach, wrong the sport which they profess to love. - -"In this game as in any other, it should be a point of honour for us not -to make the sport more difficult for others, and not to bring -unnecessary sorrow upon the peasants, who help us to play it, and upon -their families. It should be a point of honour to play the game, and, if -disaster comes in playing it, we have at least, done our best." - - - - -GLOSSARY - - -ALP A mountain pasture, usually with chalets - tenanted only in summer. - -ARETE A ridge. - -BERGSCHRUND A crevasse between the snow adhering to - the rocks and the lower portion of the - glacier. - -COL A pass between two peaks. - - -COULOIR A gully, usually filled with snow or stones. - -CREVASSE A crack in a glacier, caused by the movement - of the ice over an uneven bed or - round a corner. - - -FIRN The snow of the upper regions, which is - slowly changing into glacier ice. - -GRAT A ridge. - -JOCH A pass between two peaks. - -KAMM A summit ridge. - -MORAINE An accumulation of stones and sand which - has fallen from bordering slopes on to - a glacier. Medial moraines are formed - by the junction of glaciers, their lateral - moraines joining. - -MOULIN A glacier mill, or shaft through the ice, - formed by a stream which has met a - crevasse in its course, and plunging - into its depths has bored a hole right - through the glacier and often into the - rock beneath. - -NEVE The French of _Firn_. (See Firn.) - -RUeCKSACK The bag type of canvas knapsack now invariably - used by guides and climbers. - -SCHRUND A crevasse. (See Crevasse.) - -SERAC A cube of ice, formed by transverse crevasses, - and found where a glacier passes over - steep rocks. This part of a glacier is - called an ice-fall. - - - - -INDEX - - -A - -Abruzzi, Duke of, 8 - -Adine Col, 108 - -AEggischhorn, 257 - -Ailefroide, 228, 245 - -Aitkins, Mr, 162 - -Aletsch Glacier, 125 - -Aletschhorn, avalanche on, 55 - -Almer, Christian, 223, 237 - -Almer, Ulrich, 55 - -Andenmatten, 108 - -Anderegg, Jacob, 126, 127 - -Anderegg, Melchior, 125, 212 - -Andermatten, Franz, 202 - -Arbuthnot, Mrs, 257 - -Arc, Valley of, 266 - -Aren Glacier, 57, 61 - -Arlberg Pass, 61 - -Arolla, 168 - -Arves, Aiguilles d', 248 - -Asti, 265 - - -B - -Baker, Mr, 134 - -Balloon (crossing Alps), 298 - -Balme, 300 - -Bans, Les, 228 - -Baumann, Hans, 127 - -Bean, Mr, 136 - -Bennen, 57 - -Bergemoletto, 65 - -Bergli Hut, 210 - -Bessanese, 299 - -Bettega, 183 - -Biner, Alois and P., 302 - -Biner, Joseph, 204, 302 - -Blaitiere, Aiguille de, 26, 37 - -Blanc, Mont, 136, 153 - -Blanche, Dent, 51, 152, 167 - -Boeufs Rouges, 228 - -Bohren, 58 - -Boniface, 265 - -Bonvoison, Pic de, 226 - -Botto, 298 - -Bregaglia group, 296 - -Brenner, 136 - -Brewer, Mrs, 61 - -Bricolla chalets, 168 - -Bristenstock, 164 - -Broadbent, Mr, 302 - -Bruce, Major, 59 - -Brulle, Mons. H., 260 - -Burckhardt, Mr, 208 - -Burchi peak, 59 - -Burgener, Alexander, 104, 202 - - -C - -Ca d'Asti, 265 - -Carr, Mr Ellis, 23 - -Carrel, J. A., 21 - -Caucasus, 58, 99, 116 - -Cenis, Mont, 264 - -Cerbillonas, the, 260 - -Chamonix, 8, 23, 126, 153 - -Charbonnet, Captain, 298 - -Charmoz ridge, 50 - -Claret, 258 - -Clayton, Captain, 261 - -Collie, Dr Norman, 134 - -Constance, 60 - -Conway, Sir W. M., 155, 275 - -Copland Valley, 4 - -Croz, Michel, 222, 238 - - -D - -Dauphine, 11 - -Dent, Mr C. T., 99, 116, 142, 202 - -Devas, Mr J. F. C., 144 - -Dixon, Mr H. B., 133 - -Dolomites, 182 - -Dom, 52 - -Donkin, Mr W. F., 58, 99, 116 - -Dora Riparia, Valley of, 266 - -Dueniberg, 282 - -Durand Glacier, 204 - -Durando, 298 - -Dych Tau, 105 - - -E - -Ecrins, 228, 235 - -Ecrins, Col des, 225 - -Eiger, 264 - -Elbruz, 115 - -Elm, landslip of, 275 - -Elmer, Huntsman, 280 - -Encula, Glacier de l', 246 - -Etancons, Val des, 11 - - -F - -Fellenberg, E. Von, 212 - -Ferard, Mr A. G., 144 - -Fitzgerald, Mr E., 3 - -Flender, Herr, 138 - -Foster, Mr G. E., 126 - -Fox, Mr, 116 - -Freshfield, Mr Douglas, 116 - -Fuerrer, Alphons, 8 - -Furrer, Elias, 167 - - -G - -Gabelhorn, Ober, 55 - -Gastaldi, Rifugio, 299 - -Gavarnie, 261 - -Geant, Dent du, 257 - -Geneva, Lake of, 37 - -Gentinetta, A., 8 - -Gentinetta, E., 206 - -Gestola, 99 - -Glace, Mer de, 8 - -Glarus, Canton, 277 - -Gohna Lake, 277 - -Grass, Hans, 55 - -Greenwood, Mr Eric, 154 - -Grogan, Mr, 302 - -Grove, F. Craufurd, 2 - -Gurkhas, 59 - - -H - -Habl, Herr Emil, 292 - -Hardy, Mr, 164 - -Hartley, Mr E. T., 166 - -Hill, Mr, 167 - -Himalayas, 58, 275 - -Hochjoch Haus, 261 - -Hohberghorn, 52 - -Hoernli, 9 - -Horrocks, D. P., 204 - - -I - -Imboden, Joseph, 52, 165, 195 - -Imboden, Roman, 195 - -Imseng, Ferdinand, 202, 267 - -Innsbruck, 60 - -Interlaken, 221 - - -J - -Jones, Mr Glynne, 167 - -Julen, Edouard, 206 - -Julen, Felix, 302 - -Jungfrau, 55, 210 - -Jungfrau Hut, 209 - - -K - -Kaiserbrunn, 292 - -Kennedy, Dr, 164, 222 - -King, Sir H. S., 208 - -Koenig, Herr, 138 - -Kubli, Herr Oswald, 281 - -Kurzras, 261 - - -L - -La Berarde, 11, 245 - -La Grave, 11 - -Langtauferer Glacier, 262 - -Lapland, 306 - -Lausanne, 37 - -Lucerne, 301 - -Lyons, 298 - - -M - -Maggiore, Lago, 301 - -Maithana Hill, fall of, 275 - -Maquignaz, 21 - -Maritime Alps, 305 - -Martino, St, 182 - -Matthews, Mr E. C., 211 - -Matterhorn, 8, 21, 248, 302 - -Maund, Mr, 11 - -Maund, Mrs, 11 - -Maurer, 11, 116 - -Meije, 12, 248 - -Meije, Breche de la, 12, 228 - -Middlemore, Mr, 11 - -Midi, Aiguille du, 126 - -Mischabel group, 301 - -Monand, Mons. J., 306 - -Moench, 124 - -Montanvert, 8 - -Moore, Mr A. W., 124, 222, 235 - -"Moseley's Platte," 302 - -Mouvoison, 142 - -Mueller Valley, 4 - -Mummery, Mr, 23, 58 - -Muerren, 208 - -Muesli, 280 - -Mussa, Cantina della, 300 - - -N - -Nant Francon, 319 - -Nantillons Glacier, 24 - -Neyssel, Mons. Antoine, 306 - -Noir, Glacier, 245 - - -O - -Oetzthal, 261 - -Offerer, J., 136 - -Ossoue, Valley of, 261 - - -P - -Palue, Piz, 55 - -Passingham, Mr, 202 - -Packe, Mr C., 259 - -Pelvoux, 245 - -Pelvoux, Crete du, 245 - -Perren, H., 138 - -Perren, P., 204 - -Pilatte, Col de la, 222 - -Plan, Aiguille du, 23 - -Plattenbergkopf, 277 - -Pourri, Mont, 267 - -Powell, Captain, 116, 123 - -Pyrenees, 259 - - -R - -Rax, the, 291 - -Renaud, Mons., 223 - -Rey, Emil, 8 - -Rhyner, Fridolin, 287 - -Rhyner, Meinrad, 280 - -Richardson, Miss, 165 - -Rocca Venoni, 300 - -Roccia, Family of, 68 - -Roche Melon, 264 - -Rocky Mountains, 133 - -Rodier, 11 - -Rosetta, 182 - -Rothhorn, Zinal, 195 - - -S - -Saas, Valley of, 301 - -Sahrbach, 134 - -Schaeffer, Dr, 136 - -Schildthorn, 257 - -Schuster, Mr, 162 - -Schwarzsee Hotel, 10 - -Sefton, Mount, 4 - -Seiler, Herr, 145, 162 - -Seiler, D. H., 301 - -Sernf Valley, 277 - -Silberhorn, 208 - -Skagastoeldstind, 140 - -Ski accident, 137 - -Slingsby, Mr Cecil, 23, 140, 152 - -Sloggett, Mr, 8 - -Smith, Mr Haskett-, 158 - -Solly, Mr, 156 - -Somis, Ignazio, 65 - -Sospello, 306 - -Spechtenhauser, 261 - -Spelterini, Captain, 301 - -Spender, Mr H., 167 - -Strahlplatten, 209 - -Stock, Mr E. E., 302 - -Stockje, 156 - -Supersax, Ambrose, 209 - -Susa, 265 - - -T - -Tavernaro, 183 - -Tetnuld Tau, 99 - -Toensberg, 141 - -Trift Valley, 195 - -Tuckett, Mr F., 55, 264 - -Tuckett Glacier, 5 - -Turin, 298 - - -U - -Uschba, 115 - - -V - -Vallon, Glacier du, 245 - -Vallot Hut, 153 - -Valtournanche, 21 - -Ventina Glacier, 316 - -Vignemale, 260 - -Viso, Monte, 269 - -Vuignier, Jean, 168 - - -W - -Walker, Mr, 223, 235 - -Walker, Mr Horace, 126 - -Wandfluh, 166, 179 - -Watson, Mr and Mrs, 257 - -Weisshorn, 248 - -Weisskugel, 261 - -Weissmies, 301 - -Wengern Alp, 124, 210 - -Willink, Mr, 123 - -Wildlahner Glacier, 136 - -Wolfsthal, 292 - -Woolley, Mr H., 116 - -Whymper, Mr E., 222, 235 - -Wyss, Schoolmaster, 280 - - -Z - -Zentner, Kaspar, 287 - -Zermatt, 10, 51, 139, 181, 301 - -Zmutt Glacier, 166, 179 - -Zurbriggen, 3, 59 - -Zurbriggen, Clemens, 168 - -Zurbruecken, Louis, 209 - -Zurmatter, 302 - - PRINTED AT THE EDINBURGH PRESS, - - 9 AND 11 YOUNG STREET - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] These are now known as Mummery nails, and are often used by climbers. - -[2] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, pp. 42 and 43. - -[3] Or, in modern phraseology, "avalanches." - -[4] Mountain aneroids generally overstate the heights. The height of -Gestola is now computed at 15,932 feet, and that of Tetnuld at 15,918 -feet. - -[5] "Good God! The Sleeping-place!" - -[6] "I am still living." - -[7] _Above the Snow Line_, by Clinton Dent. - -[8] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, p. 269. - -[9] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, p. 134. - -[10] At the moment of going to press, I must note a fatal accident on -the mountains due to lightning, namely, the death of the guide, Joseph -Simond, on the Dent du Geant. This I had overlooked. - -[11] See _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_. - -[12] "Ah! That is really wonderfully beautiful!" - -[13] All details connected with this avalanche were collected on the -spot, and shortly afterwards published in a volume, _Der Bergsturz von -Elm_, by E. Buss and A. Heim. Zuerich, 1881. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -The baloon "Stella"=> The balloon "Stella" {pg xiv} - -sufficient to carry of the=> sufficient to carry off the {pg 82} - -Kaisserbrunn, 292=> Kaiserbrunn, 292 {index} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Adventures on the Roof of the World, by -Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - -***** This file should be named 43314.txt or 43314.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/3/1/43314/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Adventures on the Roof of the World - -Author: Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -Release Date: July 26, 2013 [EBook #43314] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF OF - THE WORLD - - - - - SOME - BOOKS ON MOUNTAINEERING - - - =The Annals of Mont Blanc=: A Monograph. By C. E. MATHEWS, sometime - President of the Alpine Club. With Map, 6 Swan-types and other - Illustrations, and Facsimiles. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s. net. - - =The Life of Man on the High Alps=: Studies made on Monte Rosa. By - ANGELO MOSSO. Translated from the Second Edition of the Italian by - E. LOUGH KIESOW, in collaboration with F. KIESOW. With numerous - Illustrations and Diagrams. Royal 8vo, cloth, 21s. - - =The Early Mountaineers=: The Stories of their Lives. By FRANCIS - GRIBBLE. Fully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s. - - =The Climbs of Norman-Neruda.= Edited, with an Account of his last - Climb, by MAY NORMAN-NERUDA. Demy 8vo, cloth, 21s. - - =In the Ice World of Himalaya.= By FANNY BULLOCK WORKMAN and WILLIAM - HUNTER WORKMAN. With four large Maps and nearly 100 Illustrations. - Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 16s. Also a 6s. Edition. - - =From the Alps to the Andes.= By MATHIAS ZURBRIGGEN. Demy 8vo, cloth, - 10s. 6d. net. - - =Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada.= By CLARENCE KING. Crown 8vo, - cloth, 6s. net. - - =True Tales of Mountain Adventure= (for Non-Climbers, Young and Old). - By Mrs AUBREY LE BLOND (Mrs Main). Demy 8vo, cloth, 10s. 6d. net. - -LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN. - -[Illustration: THE FINDING OF THE LAST BIVOUAC OF MESSRS. DONKIN AND FOX -IN THE CAUCASUS. (P. 116.) - -From a drawing by Mr. Willink after a sketch by Captain Powell. Taken, -by kind permission of Mr. Douglas Freshfield, from "The Exploration of -the Caucasus." - -_Frontispiece._] - - - - - ADVENTURES ON THE - ROOF OF THE WORLD - - BY - MRS AUBREY LE BLOND - (MRS MAIN) - - AUTHOR OF - "MY HOME IN THE ALPS," "TRUE TALES OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE," ETC. - - _ILLUSTRATED_ - - [Illustration: colophon] - - LONDON - T. FISHER UNWIN - PATERNOSTER SQUARE - 1904 - - (_All rights reserved._) - - - - - TO - - JOSEPH IMBODEN - - MY GUIDE AND FRIEND FOR TWENTY YEARS, - - I dedicate - - THESE RECORDS OF A PASTIME IN WHICH I OWE - - MY SHARE TO HIS SKILL, COURAGE, AND - - HELPFUL COMPANIONSHIP. - - - - -PREFACE - - -"Dear heart," said Tommy, when Mr Barlow had finished his narrative, -"what a number of accidents people are subject to in this world!" - -"It is very true," answered Mr Barlow, "but as that is the case, it is -necessary to improve ourselves in every possible manner, so that we may -be able to struggle against them." - -Thus quoted, from _Sandford and Merton_, a president of the Alpine Club. -The following True Tales from the Hills, if they serve to emphasise not -only the perils of mountaineering but the means by which they can be -lessened, will have accomplished the aim of their editor. - -This book is not intended for the climber. To him most of the tales will -be familiar in the volumes on the shelves of his library or on the lips -of his companions during restful hours in the Alps. But the non-climber -rarely sees _The Alpine Journal_ and the less popular books on -mountaineering, nor would he probably care to search in their pages for -narratives likely to interest him. - -To seek out tales of adventure easily intelligible to the non-climber, -to edit them in popular form, to point out the lessons which most -adventures can teach to those who may climb themselves one day, has -occupied many pleasant hours, rendered doubly so by the feeling that I -shall again come into touch with the readers who gave so kindly a -greeting to my _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_. In that work I tried -to explain the principles of mountaineering and something of the nature -of glaciers and avalanches. Those chapters will, I think, be found -helpful by non-climbers who read the present volume. - -For much kindly advice and help in compiling this work I am indebted to -Mr Henry Mayhew, of the British Museum, and to Mr Clinton Dent. Mrs -Maund has enabled me to quote from a striking article by her late -husband. Sir W. Martin Conway, Sir H. Seymour King, Messrs Tuckett, G. -E. Foster, Cecil Slingsby, Harold Spender, and Edward Fitzgerald have -been good enough to allow me to make long extracts from their writings. -Messrs Newnes have generously permitted me to quote from articles which -appeared in their publications, and the editor of _The Cornhill_ has -sanctioned my reprinting portions of a paper from his magazine. I am -also indebted to the editor of _M'Clure's Magazine_ for a similar -courtesy. - -Mons. A. Campagne, Inspector of Water and Forests (France), allows me to -make use of two very interesting photographs from his work on the Valley -of Barge. Several friends have lent me photographs for reproduction in -this work, and their names appear under each of the illustrations I owe -to them. Messrs Spooner have kindly allowed me to use several by the -late Mr W. F. Donkin. When not otherwise stated, the photographs are -from my own negatives. - -I take this opportunity of heartily thanking those climbers, some of -them personally unknown to me, whose assistance has rendered this work -possible. - -E. LE BLOND. - -67 THE DRIVE, -BRIGHTON, _December 1903_. - - - - -CONTENTS - - -CHAP. PAGE - - PREFACE ix - - I. SOME TALES OF ALPINE GUIDES 1 - - II. TWO DAYS ON AN ICE-SLOPE 23 - - III. SOME AVALANCHE ADVENTURES 51 - - IV. A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE 65 - - V. A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE (_continued_) 81 - - VI. AN EXCITING CAUCASIAN ASCENT 99 - - VII. A MELANCHOLY QUEST 116 - -VIII. SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND FATAL ACCIDENTS 124 - - IX. A NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE DENT BLANCHE 152 - - X. ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE 167 - - XI. A STIRRING DAY ON THE ROSETTA 182 - - XII. THE ZINAL ROTHHORN TWICE IN ONE DAY 195 - -XIII. BENIGHTED ON A SNOW PEAK 208 - - XIV. THE STORY OF A BIG JUMP 222 - - XV. A PERILOUS FIRST ASCENT 235 - -XVI. THUNDERSTORMS IN THE ALPS 257 - -XVII. LANDSLIPS IN THE MOUNTAINS 275 - -XVIII. SOME TERRIBLE EXPERIENCES 291 - -XIX. FALLING STONES AND FALLING BODIES 310 - -GLOSSARY 327 - -INDEX 329 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - -The last bivouac of Messrs Donkin and Fox -in the Caucasus _Frontispiece_ - -Christian Almer, Joseph Imboden, Jean -Antoine Carrel, Alexander Burgener _To face page_ 3 - -The last steep bit near the top--At the end -of a hot day--An instant's halt to choose -the best way up a steep wall of rock--The -ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, -to be brought up by the last man " " 6 - -Auguste Gentinetta--Auguste Gentinetta -on the way to the Matterhorn--The -beginning of the climb up the Matterhorn--The -spot where was the _bergschrund_ -into which Mr Sloggett's party -fell " " 8 - -Auguste Gentinetta on a mountain-top--The -ice-cliffs over which Mr Sloggett's party -would have fallen had they not been -dashed into the _bergschrund_--The -ruined chapel by the Schwarzsee--The -last resting-place at Zermatt of some -English climbers " " 11 - -On a snow ridge--A halt for lunch above -the snow-line--Mrs Aubrey Le Blond " " 51 - -A cutting through an avalanche--The -remains of an avalanche--An avalanche -of stones--A mountain chapel " " 59 - -A mountain path--Peasants of the -mountains--A village buried beneath an -avalanche--Terraces planted to -prevent avalanches " " 65 - -A typical Caucasian landscape " " 105 - -Melchior Anderegg, his son and grandchild " " 124 - -Crevasses and sracs--On the border of a -crevasse--A snow bridge--Soft snow in -the afternoon " " 133 - -The Btemps Hut--Ski-ing--A fall on Skis--A -great crevasse " " 137 - -The balloon "Stella" getting ready to start -(p. 301)--A bivouac in the olden days--Boulder -practice--The last rocks -descending " " 148 - -Provisions for a mountain hotel--An outlook -over rock and snow--Dent Blanche -from Schwarzsee (winter)--Dent Blanche -from Theodule Glacier (summer) " " 152 - -Hut on Col de Brtol--Ascending the -Aiguilles Rouges--Summit of the Dent -Blanche--Cornice on the Dent Blanche " " 156 - -Ambrose Supersax (p. 209)--View from the -Rosetta " " 182 - -Climbing party leaving Zermatt--The -Gandegg Hut--The Trift Hotel--Zinal -Rothhorn from Trift Valley " " 195 - -Zinal Rothhorn--Top of a Chamonix Aiguille--A -steep face of rock--"Leading -strings" " " 202 - -A _bergschrund_--Homewards over the snow-slopes " " 230 - -The Ecrins--Clouds breaking over a ridge--Summit -of the Jungfrau--Wind-blown -snow " " 235 - -The Ecrins from the Glacier Blanc " " 247 - -Slab climbing--A rock ridge--On the Dent -du Gant--The top at last " " 252 - -The second largest glacier in the Alps--On -a ridge in the Oberland " " 259 - -Thirteen thousand feet above the sea--On -the Furggen Grat--A "personally -conducted" party on the Breithorn--Packing -the knapsack " " 269 - -Monte Rosa from the Furggen Grat--The -Matterhorn from the Wellenkuppe " " 272 - -A glacier lake--Amongst the sracs--Taking -off the rope--Water at last! " " 297 - -The balloon "Stella" starting from Zermatt--A -moment after " " 298 - -The Matterhorn from the Hrnli Ridge--The -Matterhorn from the Furgg Glacier--Joseph -Biner--The Matterhorn Hut " " 302 - -A hot day on a mountain-top--A summit -near Saas--Luncheon _en route_ (winter)--Luncheon -on a glacier pass (summer) " " 310 - -A tedious snow-slope--A sitting glissade--A -glacier-capped summit--On the -frontier " " 312 - -Unpleasant going--On the crest of an old -moraine " " 317 - -An awkward bit of climbing--Guides at -Zermatt--The Boval Hut--_Au revoir!_ " " 322 - - - - -ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF OF THE WORLD - - - - -CHAPTER I - -SOME TALES OF ALPINE GUIDES - - -In a former work, I have given some details of the training of an Alpine -guide, so I will not repeat them here. - -The mountain guides of Switzerland form a class unlike any other, yet in -the high standard of honour and devotion they display towards those in -their charge, one is reminded of two bodies of men especially deserving -of respect and confidence, namely, the Civil Guards of Spain and the -Royal Irish Constabulary. Like these, the Alpine guide oftentimes risks -his health, strength--even his life--for persons who are sometimes in -themselves the cause of the peril encountered. Like these, mere bodily -strength and the best will in the world need to be associated with -intelligence and foresight. Like these, also, keen, fully-developed -powers of observation are essential. A certain climber of early days has -wittily related in _The Alpine Journal_ a little anecdote which bears on -this point. "Some years ago," writes the late Mr F. Craufurd Grove, "a -member of this Club was ascending a small and easy peak in company with -a famous Oberland guide. Part of their course lay over a snow-field -sinking gradually on one side, sharply ended by a precipice on the -other. The two were walking along, not far from the edge of this -precipice, when the Englishman, thinking that an easier path might be -made by going still nearer the edge, diverged a little from his -companion's track. To his considerable surprise, the guide immediately -caught hold of him, and pulled him back with a great deal more vigour -than ceremony, well-nigh throwing him down in the operation. Wrathful, -and not disinclined to return the compliment, the Englishman -remonstrated. The guide's only answer was to point to a small crack, -apparently like scores of other cracks in the _nv_, which ran for some -distance parallel to the edge of the precipice, and about 15 feet from -it. - -[Illustration: JEAN ANTOINE CARREL OF VALOURNANCHE. - -By Signor Vittorio Sella.] - -[Illustration: CHRISTIAN ALMER OF GRINDELWALD.] - -[Illustration: ALEXANDER BURGENER OF EISTEN (SAASTHAL).] - -[Illustration: JOSEPH IMBODEN OF ST. NICHOLAS. - -_To face p. 3._] - -"The traveller was not satisfied, but he was too wise a man to spend -time in arguing and disputing, while a desired summit was still some -distance above him. They went on their way, gained the top, and the -traveller's equanimity was restored by a splendid view. When, on the -descent, the scene of the morning's incident was reached, the guide -pointed to the little crack in the _nv_, which had grown perceptibly -wider. 'This marks,' he said, 'the place where the true snow-field ends. -I feel certain that the ice from here to the edge is nothing but an -unsupported cornice hanging over the tremendous precipice beneath. It -might possibly have borne your weight in the early morning, though I -don't think it would. As to what it will bear now that a powerful sun -has been on it for some time--why, let us see.' Therewith he struck the -_nv_ on the further side of the ice sharply with his axe. A huge mass, -some 20 or 30 feet long, immediately broke away, and went roaring down -the cliff in angry avalanche. Whereat the traveller was full of -amazement and admiration, and thought how there, on an easy mountain and -in smiling weather, he had not been very far from making himself into an -avalanche, to his own great discomfort and to the infinite tribulation -of the Alpine Club." - -A fatal accident was only narrowly averted by the skill of the famous -guide Zurbriggen when making an ascent in the New Zealand Alps with Mr -Edward Fitzgerald. I am indebted to this gentleman for permission to -quote the account from his article in _The Alpine Journal_. - -The party were making the ascent of Mount Sefton, and were much troubled -by the looseness of the rock on the almost vertical face which they had -to climb. However, at last they reached a ridge, "along which," writes -Mr Fitzgerald, "we proceeded between two precipices, descending to the -Copland and to the Mueller valleys--some 6000 feet sheer drop on either -hand. - -"We had next to climb about 300 feet of almost perpendicular cliff. The -rocks were peculiarly insecure, and we were obliged to move by turns, -wherever possible throwing down such rocks as seemed most dangerous. At -times even this resource was denied us, so dangerous was the violent -concussion with which these falling masses would shake the ridge to -which we clung. I carried both the ice axes, so as to leave Zurbriggen -both hands free to test each rock as he slowly worked his way upwards, -while I did my utmost to avoid being in a position vertically beneath -him. - -"Suddenly, as I was coming up a steep bit, while Zurbriggen waited for -me a few steps above, a large boulder, which I touched with my right -hand, gave way with a crash and fell, striking my chest. I had been just -on the point of passing up the two ice axes to Zurbriggen, that he might -place them in a cleft of rock a little higher up, and thus leave me -both hands free for my climb. He was in the act of stooping and -stretching out his arms to take them from my uplifted left hand, and the -slack rope between us lay coiled at his feet. The falling boulder hurled -me down head foremost, and I fell about 8 feet, turning a complete -somersault in the air. Suddenly I felt the rope jerk, and I struck -against the side of the mountain with great force. I feared I should be -stunned and drop the two ice axes, and I knew that on these our lives -depended. Without them we should never have succeeded in getting down -the glacier, through all the intricate ice-fall. - -"After the rope had jerked me up I felt it again slip and give way, and -I came down slowly for a couple of yards. I took this to mean that -Zurbriggen was being wrenched from his foot-hold, and I was just -contemplating how I should feel dashing down the 6000 feet below, and -wondering vaguely how many times I should strike the rocks on the way. I -saw the block that I had dislodged going down in huge bounds; it struck -the side three or four times, and then, taking an enormous plunge of -about 2000 feet, embedded itself in the glacier now called the Tuckett -Glacier. - -"I felt the rope stop and pull me up short. I called to Zurbriggen and -asked him if he were solidly placed. I was now swinging in the air like -a pendulum, with my back to the mountain, scarcely touching the rock -face. It would have required a great effort to turn round and grasp the -rock, and I was afraid the strain which would thus necessarily be placed -on the rope might dislodge Zurbriggen. - -"His first fear was that I had been half killed, for he saw the rock -fall almost on top of me; but, as a matter of fact, after striking my -chest it had glanced off to the right and passed under my right arm; it -had started from a point so very near to me that it had not time to gain -sufficient impetus to strike me with great force. Zurbriggen's first -words were, 'Are you very much hurt?' I answered, 'No,' and again I -asked him whether he were firmly placed. 'No,' he replied, 'I am very -badly situated here. Turn round as soon as you can; I cannot hold you -much longer.' I gave a kick at the rocks with one foot, and with a great -effort managed to swing myself round. - -"Luckily there was a ledge near me, and so, getting some hand-hold, I -was soon able to ease the strain on the rope. A few moments later I -struggled a little way up, and at last handed to Zurbriggen the ice -axes, which I had managed to keep hold of throughout my fall. In fact, -my thoughts had been centred on them during the whole of the time. We -were in too bad a place to stop to speak to one another; but -Zurbriggen, climbing up a bit further, got himself into a firm position, -and I scrambled up after him, so that in about ten minutes we had passed -this steep bit. - -[Illustration: The last steep bit near the top.] - -[Illustration: An instant's halt to choose the best way up a steep wall -of rock.] - -[Illustration: At the end of a hot day.] - -[Illustration: The ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, to be brought up -by the last man. - -_To face p. 6._] - -"We now sat for a moment to recover ourselves, for our nerves had been -badly shaken by what had so nearly proved a fatal accident. At the time -everything happened so rapidly that we had not thought much of it, more -especially as we knew that we needed to keep our nerve and take -immediate action; but once it was all over we both felt the effects, and -sat for about half an hour before we could even move again. I learned -that Zurbriggen, the moment I fell, had snatched up the coil of rope -which lay at his feet, and had luckily succeeded in getting hold of the -right end first, so that he was soon able to bring me nearly to rest; -but the pull upon him was so great, and he was so badly placed, that he -had to let the rope slip through his fingers, removing all the skin, in -order to ease the strain while he braced himself in a better position, -from which he was able finally to stop me. He told me that had I not -been able to turn and grasp the rocks he must inevitably have been -dragged from his foot-hold, as the ledge upon which he stood was -literally crumbling away beneath his feet. We discovered that two -strands of the rope had been cut through by the falling rock, so that I -had been suspended in mid-air by a single strand." - -The remainder of the way was far from easy, but without further mishap -the party eventually gained the summit. - -That there are many grades of Alpine guides was amusingly exemplified -once upon a time at the Montanvert, where in front of the hotel stood -the famous Courmazeur guide, Emil Rey (afterwards killed on the Dent du -Gant), talking to the Duke of Abruzzi and other first-rate climbers, -while a little way off lounged some extremely indifferent specimens of -the Chamonix _Societ des Guides_. Presently a tourist, got up with much -elegance, and leaning on a tall stick surmounted by a chamois horn, -appeared upon the scene, and addressed himself to Emil Rey. "Combien -pour traverser la Mer de Glace?" he enquired. - -"Monsieur," replied Rey, removing his hat with one hand and with the -other indicating the group hard by, "voila les guides pour la Mer de -Glace! Moi, je suis pour la grande montagne!" - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta, of Zermatt, 1903.] - -[Illustration: The climb up the Matterhorn by the ordinary Swiss route -begins at the rocky corner to the left of the picture.] - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta on the way to the Matterhorn.] - -[Illustration: The BERGSCHRUND, open when the accident to Mr. Sloggett's -party took place, was above the ice cliff below which the man is -standing. - -_To face p. 8._] - -One of the most wonderful escapes in the whole annals of mountaineering -was that of a young Englishman, Mr Sloggett, and the well-known guide, -Auguste Gentinetta, the second guide, Alphons Frrer, being killed on -the spot. They had made a successful ascent of the Matterhorn on 27th -July 1900, and were the first of three parties on the descent. When -nearly down the mountain, not far from the Hrnli ridge, an avalanche of -stones and rocks swept them off their feet. Frrer's skull was smashed, -and he was killed immediately, and the three, roped together, were -precipitated down a wall of ice. Their axes were wrenched from their -grasp, and they could do nothing to check themselves. Gentinetta -retained full consciousness during the whole of that awful descent, and -while without the slightest hope that they could escape with their -lives, he in no way lost his presence of mind. About 800 feet below the -spot where their fall commenced was a small _Bergschrund_, or crack -across the ice. This was full of stones and sand, and into it the -helpless climbers were flung; had they shot over it nothing in this -world could have saved them. Gentinetta, though much bruised and knocked -about, had no bones broken, and he at once took means to prevent an even -worse disaster than that which had already happened, for Mr Sloggett had -fallen head downwards, with his face buried in sand, and was on the -point of suffocation. Well was it for him that his guide was a man of -promptness and courage. Without losing an instant Gentinetta pulled up -his traveller and got his face free, clearing the sand out of his mouth, -and doing all that mortal could for him. Mr Sloggett's jaw and two of -his teeth were broken, but his other injuries were far less than might -have been expected. Nevertheless, the position of the two survivors was -still a most perilous one. They were exactly at the spot on to which -almost every stone which detached itself from that side of the mountain -was sure to fall, and their ice axes were lost, rendering it almost -impossible for them to work their way to a place of safety. Still, to -his infinite credit, the guide did not lose heart. By some means, which -he now declares he is unable to understand, he contrived to climb, and -to assist his gentleman, up that glassy, blood-stained wall, which even -for a party uninjured, and properly equipped, it would have been no -light task to surmount. This desperate achievement was rendered doubly -trying by Gentinetta's being perfectly aware that if any more stones -fell the two mountaineers must inevitably be swept away for the second -time. At last they gained their tracks and sought a sheltered spot, -where they could safely rest a little. Here they were joined by the -other parties, who rendered invaluable help during the rest of the -descent. The two sufferers finally arrived at the Schwarzsee Hotel, -whence they were carried down the same evening to Zermatt. - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta on a Mountain Top, 1903.] - -[Illustration: The ruined Chapel by the Schwarzsee.] - -[Illustration: The cliff of ice over which Mr. Sloggett's party must -have precipitated if they had not been dashed into the BERGSCHRUND.] - -[Illustration: The last resting place at Zermatt of some English -climbers. - -_To face p. 11._] - -The next day a strong party started for the scene of the accident to -recover the body of the dead guide, Frrer. It was a difficult and a -dangerous task, and those who examined the wall down which the fall -took place expressed their amazement that two wounded men, without axes, -should have performed what seemed the incredible feat of getting up it. - -Both Mr Sloggett and Gentinetta made an excellent recovery, though they -were laid up for many weeks after their memorable descent of the -Matterhorn. - -The qualities found in a first-class guide include not only skill in -climbing, but the ability to form a sound conclusion when overtaken by -storm and mist. The following experience which took place in 1874, and -which I am permitted by Mrs Maund to quote from her late husband's -article in _The Alpine Journal_, proves, by its happy termination, that -Maurer's judgment in a critical position was thoroughly to be relied on. -Mr Maund had just arrived at La Brarde, in Dauphin, and he writes:-- - -"The morning of the 29th broke wet and stormy, and Rodier strongly -advised me not to start; this, however, was out of the question, as I -was due at La Grave on that day to keep my appointment with Mr -Middlemore. After waiting an hour, to give the weather a chance, we -started in drizzling rain at 5 A.M. Desolate as the Val des tanons -must always look, it appeared doubly gloomy that morning, with its -never-ending monotony of rock and moraine unrelieved by a single patch -of green. As we neared the glacier, the weather fortunately cleared, -and the clouds, which till then had enveloped everything, began to mount -with that marvellous rapidity only noticeable in mountain districts, -leaving half revealed the mighty cliffs of the Meije towering 5000 feet -almost sheer above us. As the wind caught and carried into the air the -frozen sheets of snow on his summit, the old mountain looked like some -giant bill distributer throwing his advertisements about. Entirely -protected from the wind, we whiled away an hour and a half, searching -with our telescope for any feasible line of attack. Having satisfied -ourselves that on this side the mountain presented enormous, if not -insurmountable, difficulties, we shouldered our packs and made tracks -for the Brche, which we reached at 11.45. - -"Meanwhile the weather had become worse again, and during the last part -of the ascent it was snowing heavily; the wind too, from which we had -been protected on the south side of the col, was so strong that we were -absolutely obliged to crawl over to the north side. Our position was by -no means a pleasant one; neither Martin nor I knew anything of the pass, -and Rodier, who had told us overnight that he had crossed it more than -once, seemed to know no more, and although sure of the exact bearing of -La Grave, we could not, owing to the fast falling snow, see further -than 300 or 400 yards in advance; added to this, it was intensely cold. -Having paid Rodier 20 francs (a perfect waste of money, as it is -impossible to mistake the way to the Brche from the Val des tanons, -and, as I have said, he could not give us the least clue to the descent -on the La Grave side), we dismissed him, hoping devoutly that he might -break his--well, his ice axe, we'll say--on the way down. By keeping -away to the right of the Brche and down a steep slope, we crossed the -crevasses which lay at its base without difficulty. We then bore to the -left across a plateau, on which the snow lay very deep; floundering -through this sometimes waist deep, we reached the upper ice-fall of the -glacier, and after crossing several crevasses became involved in a -perfect net-work of them. After a consultation, we determined to try to -the right, but met with no better success, as again we were checked by -an absolute labyrinth. At last, about five o'clock, we took to some -rocks which divide the glacier into two branches. Meanwhile the snow was -falling thicker and thicker, and, driven by the strong N.W. wind which -caught up and eddied about what had already fallen, it appeared to come -from every quarter at once. It was impossible to see more than a few -yards in advance, and the rocks which under ordinary circumstances -would have been easy, were, with their coating of at least 4 inches of -snow, much the reverse, as it was quite impossible to see where to put -hand or foot. Our only trust was in our compass, which assured us that -while keeping to the backbone of this ridge we were descending in an -almost direct line towards La Grave. - -"We had at most two hours of daylight before us, but there was still a -hope that by following our present line we should get off the glacier -before dark. How I regretted now the time lost in the morning. A little -before seven we were brought to a standstill; our further direct descent -was cut off by a precipice, while the rocks on either side fell almost -sheer to the glaciers beneath. It was too late to think of looking for -another road, so nothing now remained but to find the best shelter we -could and bivouac for the night. We re-ascended to a small platform we -had passed a short time before, and selecting the biggest and most -sheltered bit of rock on it, we piled up the few movable stones there -were about, to form the outside wall to our shelter, and having cleared -away as much of the snow as we could from the inside, laid our ice axes -across the top as rafters, with a sodden mackintosh--ironically called a -waterproof by Mr Carter--over all for a roof. Despite this garment, I -was wet to the skin. Luckily, we had each of us a spare flannel shirt -and stockings in our knapsacks, but as the meagre dimensions of our -shelter would not admit of the struggles attendant on a change, we were -obliged to go through the operation outside. I tried to be cheerful, and -Martin tried to be facetious as we wrung out our wet shirts while the -snow beat on our bare backs, but both attempts were lamentable failures. -If up to the present time my readers have not stripped in a snow-storm, -let me strongly advise them never to attempt it. Having got through the -performance as quickly as possible, we crawled into our shelter, but -here again my ill luck followed me, for in entering I managed to tread -on the tin wine-flask which Martin had thrown aside, and, my weight -forcing out the cork, every drop of wine escaped. After packing myself -away as well as I could in the shape of a pot-hook, Martin followed, and -pot-hooked himself alongside me. We were obliged to assume this -elementary shape, as the size of our shelter would not admit of our -lying straight. All the provisions that remained were then produced. -They consisted of a bit of bread about the size of a breakfast-roll, -one-third of a small pot of preserved meat, about two ounces of raw -bacon with the hide on, and half a small flask of a filthy compound -called Genpie, a sort of liqueur; besides this, we mustered between us -barely a pipe-full of tobacco, and eight matches in a metal-box. The -provisions I divided into three equal parts--one-third for that night's -supper, and the remaining two-thirds for the next day. I need not -enlarge on the miseries of that night. The wind blew through the chinks -between the stones, bringing the snow with it, until the place seemed -all chinks; then the mackintosh with its weight of snow would come in -upon us, and we had with infinite difficulty to prop it up again, only -to go through the same operation an hour later; at last, in sheer -despair, we let it lie where it fell, and found to our relief it kept us -warmer in that position. The snow never ceased one moment although the -wind had fallen, and when morning broke there must have been nearly a -foot of it around and over us. A more desolate picture than that dawn I -have never seen. Snow everywhere. The rocks buried in it, and not a -point peeping out to relieve the unbroken monotony. The sky full of it, -without a break to relieve its leaden sameness, and the heavy flakes -falling with that persistent silence which adds so much to the -desolation of such a scene. - -"I was all for starting; for making some attempt either to get down, or -to recross the col. Martin was dead against it--and I think now he was -right. First of all, we could not have seen more than a few yards ahead; -the rocks would have been considerably worse than they were the evening -before, and if we had once got involved amongst the crevasses it was on -the cards that we shouldn't get clear of them again; added to this, even -if we could hit off the col, what with want of sleep and food, and the -fatigue consequent on several hours' floundering in deep snow, we might -not have strength to reach it. At any rate, we decided not to start -until it cleared sufficiently to let us see where we were going. Our -meagre stock of provisions was redivided into three parts, one of which -we ate for breakfast. I then produced the pipe, but to our horror we -found the matches were still damp. Martin, who is a man of resource, -immediately opened his shirt and put the box containing them under his -arm to dry. Meanwhile the snow never ceased, and the day wore on without -a sign of the weather breaking. If it had not been for the excitement of -those matches, I do not know how we should have got through that day; at -last, however, after about six hours of Martin's fond embrace, one -consented to burn, and I succeeded in lighting the pipe. We took turns -at twelve whiffs each, and no smoke, I can conscientiously say, have I -ever enjoyed like that one. During this never-ending day we got a few -snatches of sleep, but the cold consequent on our wet clothes was so -great, our position so cramped, and the rocks on which we lay so -abominably sharp, that these naps were of the shortest duration. - -"A little before six the snow ceased, and for a moment the sun tried to -wink at us through a chink in his snow-charged blanket, before he went -to bed--long enough, however, for us to see La Grave far below, with -every alp almost down to the village itself covered with its white -mantle. - -"And then, as our second night closes in, the snow recommences, and we -draw closer together even than before; for we feel that during the long -hours to come we must economise to the fullest the little animal heat -left in us. - -"That night I learnt to shiver, not the ordinary shivers, but fits -lasting a quarter of an hour, during which no amount of moral persuasion -could keep your limbs under control; and it was so catching! If either -of us began a solo, the other was sure to join in, and we shivered a -duet until quite exhausted. As we had nothing to drink, I had swallowed -a considerable quantity of snow to quench my thirst, and this, acting on -an almost empty stomach, produced burning heat within, while the cold, -which was now intense, acting externally, induced fever and -light-headedness, and once or twice I caught myself rambling. Martin, -too, was affected in the same way. The long hours wore on, and still -there was no sign of better weather. Towards midnight things looked very -serious. Martin, who had behaved like a brick, thought 'it was very hard -to perish like this in the flower of his age,' and I, too, thought of -writing a line as well as I was able in my pocket-book, bequeathing its -contents to my finder, then of sleeping if I could and waking up with -the Houris; but I had the laugh of him afterwards, because he thought -aloud and I to myself. However, this mood did not last long, and after -shaking hands, I do not quite know why, because we had not quarrelled, -we cuddled up again, and determined, whatever the weather, to start at -daybreak. In half an hour the snow ceased, the wind backed to the S., -and the temperature rose as if by magic; while the snow melting above -trickled down in little streams upon us. We cleared the snow off the -mackintosh, and putting it over us again, slept like logs in comparative -warmth. When I awoke the sun was well up, and on looking round I could -hardly realise the scene. Not a cloud in the sky! Not a breath of wind! -The rocks around us, which yesterday were absolutely buried, were -showing their black heads everywhere, and only a few inches of snow -remained, so rapid had been the thaw; while far away to the N. the -snow-capped summits of the Pennine Alps stood out in bold relief against -the cloudless sky. - -"I woke Martin, and at a quarter to six, after thirty-five hours' -burial, we crawled out of our shelter. At first neither of us could -stand, so chilled were we by long exposure, and so cramped by our -enforced position, but after a good thaw in the hot sun we managed to -hobble about, and pack the knapsacks. After eating the few scraps that -remained, we started at seven o'clock up the ridge that we had descended -two days before. - -"We were very shaky on our legs at first, but at each step the stiffness -seemed to wear off, and after half an hour we quite recovered their use; -but there remained an all-pervading sense of emptiness inside that was -not exhilarating. After ascending a short distance, and with my -telescope carefully examining the rocks, we determined to descend to the -glacier below us (the western branch), and crossing this get on to some -more rocks beneath the lower ice-fall. If we could get down these our -way seemed clear. - -"I won't trouble you with the details of the descent: suffice it to say -that, without encountering any difficulty, we stepped on to grass about -twelve o'clock, and descending green slopes, still patched here and -there with snow (which would have provided sufficient Edelweiss for all -the hats of the S.A.C.), we arrived safely at La Grave, after a pleasant -little outing of fifty-six hours. Mr Middlemore, despairing of my -coming, had started for England the night before, and had left Jaun to -await my arrival. - -"After a hot bath, and some bread-crumbs soaked in warm wine, I went to -bed, and the next morning I awoke as well as I am now, with the -exception of stiffness in the knees, and a slight frost-bite on one -hand. Martin, however, who, I suspect, had eaten a good deal on his -arrival, was seized with severe cramp, and for some hours was very ill. - -"Two days' rest put us all to rights again." - -Though rivalry may be keen between first-class guides, and bitter things -be said now and then in the heat of the struggle for first place, yet -when a great guide has passed away, it is seldom that one hears anything -but good of him. A pretty story is told--and I believe it is true--of -the son of old Maquignaz of Valtournanche, which exemplifies this -chivalrous trait. Maquignaz and Jean Antoine Carrel were often in -competition in the early days of systematic climbing, and if not -enemies, they were at any rate hardly bosom friends. Carrel's tragic and -noble death on the Matterhorn will be recalled by readers of my _True -Tales of Mountain Adventure_. Not very long ago a French climber was -making an ascent of the Italian side of the Matterhorn, with "young" -Maquignaz as guide. "Where did Carrel fall?" he innocently enquired, as -they ascended the precipitous cliffs on the Breuil side of the mountain. -Young Maquignaz turned sharply to him and exclaimed: "Carrel n'est pas -tomb! _Il est mort!_" - - - - -CHAPTER II - -TWO DAYS ON AN ICE-SLOPE - - -There are few instances so striking of the capacity of a party of -thoroughly experienced mountaineers to get out of a really tight place, -as was the outcome of the two days spent by Messrs Mummery, Slingsby, -and Ellis Carr, on an ice slope in the Mont Blanc district. The party -intended trying to ascend the Aiguille du Plan direct from the Chamonix -valley. Mr Ellis Carr has generously given me permission to make use of -his account, which I quote from _The Alpine Journal_. He relates the -adventures of himself and his two friends, whose names are household -words to climbers, as follows:-- - -"Mummery, Slingsby, and I started at 4 P.M., with a porter carrying the -material for our camp. This comprised a silk tent of Mummery's pattern, -only weighing 1 to 2 lbs.; three eider-down sleeping-bags, 9 lbs.; -cooking apparatus of thin tin, 1 lbs.; or, with ropes, rucksacks, and -sundries, about 25 lbs., in addition to the weight of the provisions. -Though not unduly burdened, the porter found the valley of boulders -exceedingly troublesome, and in spite of three distinct varieties of -advice as to the easiest route across them, made such miserably slow -progress, often totally disappearing amongst the rocks like a -water-logged ship in a trough of the sea, that we were forced to pitch -our tents on the right moraine of the Nantillons Glacier, instead of -near the base of our peak, as intended. The _gte_, built up with stones -on the slope of the moraine, with earth raked into the interstices, was -sufficiently comfortable to afford Mummery and myself some sleep. A -stone, however, far surpassing the traditional _gte_ lump in aggressive -activity, seemed, most undeservedly, to have singled out Slingsby as its -innocent victim, and, judging by the convulsions of his sleeping-bag, -and the sighs and thumps which were in full swing every time I woke up, -it must have kept him pretty busy all night dodging its attacks from -side to side. His account of his sufferings next morning, when Mummery -and I were admittedly awake, fully confirmed and explained these -phenomena, but on going for the enemy by daylight, he had the -satisfaction of finding that he had suffered quite needlessly, the stone -being loose and easily removed. We used Mummery's silk tent for the -first time, and found that it afforded ample room for three men to lie -at full length without crowding. The night, however, was too fine and -still to test the weather-resisting power of the material, and as this -was thin enough to admit sufficient moonlight to illuminate the interior -of the tent, and make candle or lamp superfluous, we inferred that it -might possibly prove to be equally accommodating in the case of rain and -wind. It was necessary, moreover, on entering or leaving the tent, to -adopt that form of locomotion to which the serpent was condemned to -avoid the risk of unconsciously carrying away the whole structure on -one's back. We started next morning about three o'clock, leaving the -camp kit ready packed for the porter, whom we had instructed to fetch it -during the day, and pushed on to the glacier at the foot of our mountain -at a steady pace, maintained in my case with much greater ease than -would have otherwise been possible by virtue of some long, -single-pointed screw spikes inserted overnight in my boot soles; and I -may here venture to remark that a few of these spikes, screwed into the -boots before starting on an expedition where much ice-work is expected, -appear to offer a welcome compromise between ponderous crampons and -ordinary nails. They do not, I think, if not too numerous, interfere -with rock-climbing, and can be repeatedly renewed when worn down. A -slight modification in the shape would further facilitate their being -screwed in with a box key made to fit.[1] - -"Leaving the rock buttress, the scene of our reconnaissance on the 11th, -on the right, we struck straight up the glacier basin between it and the -Aiguille de Blaitire, which glacier appeared to me to be largely -composed of broken fragments of ice mixed with avalanche snow from the -hanging glaciers and slopes above. Keeping somewhat to the left, we -reached the _bergschrund_, which proved to be of considerable size, -extending along the whole base of the couloir, and crossed it at a point -immediately adjoining the rocks on the left. The axe at once came into -requisition, and we cut steadily in hard ice up and across the couloir -towards the small rib or island of rock before-mentioned as dividing it -higher up into two portions. The rocks at the base of this rib, though -steep, gritty, and loose, offered more rapid going than the ice, and we -climbed then to a gap on the ridge above, commanding a near view of the -perpendicular country in front of us. Far above us, and immediately over -the top of the right-hand section of the couloir, towered the ice cliffs -of the hanging glacier we had tried to reach on the 11th, and beyond -these again, in the grey morning light, we caught the glimpse of a -second and even a third rank of _sracs_ in lofty vista higher up the -mountain. As before observed, this section of the couloir seemed -admirably placed for receiving ice-falls, and we now saw that it formed -part of the natural channel for snow and _dbris_ from each and all of -these glaciers. We therefore directed our attention to our friend on the -left, and after a halt for breakfast, traversed the still remaining -portion of the dividing ridge, turning a small rock pinnacle on its -right, and recommenced cutting steps in the hard ice which faced us. As -has been before remarked, it is difficult to avoid over-estimating the -steepness of ice-slopes, but, allowing for any tendency towards -exaggeration, I do not think I am wrong in fixing the angle of the -couloir from this point as not less than 50. We kept the axe steadily -going, and with an occasional change of leader, after some hours' -unceasing work, found ourselves approaching the base of the upper -portion of the couloir, which from below had appeared perpendicular. We -paused to consider the situation. For at least 80 to 100 feet the ice -rose at an angle of 60 to 70, cutting off all view of the face above, -with no flanking wall of rock on the right, but bounded on the left by -an overhanging cliff, which dripped slightly with water from melting -snow above. The morning was well advanced, and we kept a sharp look-out -aloft for any stray stones which might fancy a descent in our direction. -None came, and we felt gratified at this confirmation of our judgment -as to the safety of this part of the couloir. However, the time for -chuckling had not yet come. As I stated, we had halted to inspect the -problem before us. Look as we might we could discover no possibility of -turning the ice wall either to the right or left, and though, as we -fondly believed and hoped, it formed the only barrier to easier going -above, the terrible straightness and narrowness of the way was -sufficient to make the very boldest pause to consider the strength of -his resources. - -"How long _I_ should have paused before beating a retreat, if asked to -lead the way up such a place, I will not stop to enquire, but I clearly -remember that my efforts to form some estimate of the probable demand on -my powers such a feat would involve were cut short by Mummery's quiet -announcement that he was ready to make the attempt. Let me here state -that amongst Mummery's other mountaineering qualifications not the least -remarkable is his power of inspiring confidence in those who are -climbing with him, and that both Slingsby and I experienced this is -proved by the fact that we at once proceeded, without misgiving or -hesitation, to follow his lead. We had hitherto used an 80-feet rope, -but now, by attaching a spare 100-feet length of thin rope, used double, -we afforded the leader an additional 50 feet. Mummery commenced -cutting, and we soon approached the lower portion of the actual ice -wall, where the angle of the slope cannot have been less than 60. - -"I am not aware that any authority has fixed the exact degree of -steepness at which it becomes impossible to use the ice axe with both -hands, but, whatever portion of a right angle the limit may be, Mummery -very soon reached it, and commenced excavating with his right hand caves -in the ice, each with an internal lateral recess by which to support his -weight with his left. Slingsby and I, meanwhile possessing our souls in -patience, stood in our respective steps, as on a ladder, and watched his -steady progress with admiration, so far as permitted us by the falling -ice dislodged by the axe. - -"Above our heads the top of the wall was crowned by a single projecting -stone towards which the leader cut, and which, when reached, just -afforded sufficient standing-room for both feet. The ice immediately -below this stone, for a height of 12 or 14 feet, was practically -perpendicular, and Slingsby's definition of it as a 'frozen waterfall' -is the most appropriate I can find. Here and there Mummery found it -necessary to cut through its entire thickness, exposing the face of the -rock behind. - -"On reaching the projecting stone the leader was again able to use the -axe with both hands, and slowly disappeared from view; thus completing, -without pause or hitch of any kind, the most extraordinary feat of -mountaineering skill and nerve it has ever been my privilege to witness. - -"The top of the wall surmounted, Slingsby and I expected every moment to -hear the welcome summons to follow to easier realms above. None came. -Time passed, the only sounds besides the occasional drip of water from -the rocks on our left, or the growl of a distant avalanche, being that -of the axe and the falling chips of ice, as they whizzed by or struck -our heads or arms with increasing force. The sounds of the axe strokes -gradually became inaudible, but the shower continued to pound us without -mercy for more than an hour of inaction, perhaps more trying to the -nerves, in such a position, than the task of leading. The monotony was -to some extent varied by efforts to ward off from our heads the blows of -the falling ice, and by the excitement, at intervals, of seeing the -slack rope hauled up a foot or so at a time. It had almost become taut, -and we were preparing to follow, when a shout from above, which sounded -from where we stood muffled and far away, for more rope, kept us in our -places. It was all very well to demand more rope, but not so easy to -comply. The only possible way to give extra length was to employ the 100 -feet of thin rope single, instead of double, at which we hesitated at -first, but, as Mummery shouted that it was absolutely necessary, we -managed to make the change, though it involved Slingsby's getting out of -the rope entirely during the operation. To any one who has not tried it -I should hardly venture to recommend, as an enjoyable diversion, the -process, which must necessarily occupy both hands, of removing and -re-adjusting 180 feet of rope on an ice slope exceeding 60 at the top -of a steep couloir some 1000 feet high. The task accomplished, we had -not much longer to wait before the shout to come on announced the -termination of our martyrdom. We went on, but, on passing in turn the -projecting stone, and catching sight of the slope above, we saw at a -glance that our hopes of easy going must, for the present, be postponed. -Mummery, who had halted at the full extent of his tether of about 120 -feet of rope, was standing in his steps on an ice slope quite as steep -as that below the foot of the wall we had just surmounted. He had been -cutting without intermission for two hours, and suggested a change. -Being last on the rope, I therefore went ahead, cutting steps to pass, -and took up the work with the axe. The ice here was occasionally in -double layer, the outer one some 3 or 4 inches in thickness, which, when -cut through, revealed a space of about equal depth behind, an -arrangement at times very convenient, as affording good hand-holes -without extra labour. I went on for some time cutting pigeon-holes on -the right side of the couloir, and, at the risk of being unorthodox, I -would venture to point out what appears to me the advantages of this -kind of step on very steep ice. Cut in two perpendicular rows, -alternately for each foot, the time lost in zigzags is saved, and no -turning steps are necessary; they do not require the ice to be cut away -so much for the leg as in the case of lateral steps, and are therefore -less easily filled up by falling chips and snow. Being on account of -their shape more protected from the sun's heat, they are less liable to -be spoiled by melting, and have the further advantage of keeping the -members of the party in the same perpendicular line, and consequently in -a safer position. They also may serve as hand-holds. To cut such steps -satisfactorily it is necessary that the axe be provided with a point -long enough to penetrate to the full depth required for the -accommodation of the foot up to the instep, without risk of injury to -the shaft by repeated contact with the ice. - -"As we had now been going for several hours without food, and since -leaving the rock rib, where we had breakfasted, had come across no ledge -or irregularity of any kind affording a resting-place, it was with no -little satisfaction that I descried, on the opposite side of the -couloir, at a spot about 30 or 40 feet above, where the cliff on our -left somewhat receded, several broken fragments of rock cropping out of -the ice, of size and shape to provide seats for the whole party. We cut -up and across to them, and sat down, or rather hooked ourselves on, for -a second breakfast. We were here approximately on a level with the -summit of our rock buttress of the 11th, and saw that it was only -connected with the mountain by a broken and dangerous-looking ridge of -ice and _nv_ running up to an ice-slope at the foot of the glacier -cliffs. The gap in the latter was not visible from our position. The -tower we had tried to turn appeared far below, and the intervening rocks -of the buttress, though not jagged, were steep and smooth like a roof. -The first gleams of sunshine now arrived to cheer us, and, getting under -way once more, we pushed on hopefully, as the couloir was rapidly -widening and the face of the mountain almost in full view. We had also -surmounted the rock wall which had so long shut out the prospect on our -left, and it was at this point that, happening to glance across the -slabs, we caught sight of a large flat rock rapidly descending. It did -not bound nor roll, but slid quietly down with a kind of stealthy haste, -as if it thought, though rather late, it might still catch us, and was -anxious not to alarm us prematurely. It fell harmlessly into the -couloir, striking the ice near the rock rib within a few feet of our -tracks, and we saw no other falling stones while we were on the -mountain. - -"Leaving the welcome resting-place, Mummery again took the lead, and cut -up and across the couloir, now becoming less steep, to a rib or patch of -rocks higher up on the right, which we climbed to its upper extremity, a -distance of some 70 or 80 feet. - -"Here, taking to the ice once more, we soon approached the foot of the -first great snow-slope on the face, and rejoiced in the near prospect of -easier going. At the top of this slope, several hundred feet straight -before us, was a low cliff or band of rocks, for which we decided to -aim, there being throughout the entire length of the intervening slope -no suspicious grey patches to indicate ice. The angle was, moreover, -much less severe, and it being once more my turn to lead, I went at it -with the zealous intention of making up time. My ardour was, however, -considerably checked at finding, when but a short distance up the slope, -that the coating of _nv_ was so exceedingly thin as to be insufficient -for good footing without cutting through the hard ice below. Instead, -therefore, of continuing in a straight line for the rocks, we took an -oblique course to the right, towards one of the hanging glaciers before -referred to, and crossing a longitudinal crevasse, climbed without much -difficulty up its sloping bank of _nv_. Hurrah! here was good snow at -last, only requiring at most a couple of slashes with the adze end of -the axe for each step. If this continued we had a comparatively easy -task before us, as the rocks above, though smooth and steep, were broken -up here and there by bands and streaks of snow. Taking full advantage of -this our first opportunity for making speed, we cut as fast as possible -and made height rapidly. We still aimed to strike the band of rocks -before described, though at a point much more to the right, and nearer -to where its extremity was bounded by the ice-cliffs of another hanging -glacier; but, alas! as we approached nearer and nearer to the base of -the cliffs, looming apparently higher and higher over our heads, the -favouring _nv_, over which we had been making such rapid progress, -again began to fail, and before we could reach the top of the once more -steepening slope the necessity of again resorting to the pick end of the -axe brought home the unwelcome conviction that our temporary respite had -come to an end, and that, instead of snow above, and apart from what -help the smooth rocks might afford, nothing was to be expected but hard, -unmitigated ice. - -"We immediately felt that, as it was already past noon, the -establishment of this fact would put a totally different complexion on -our prospects of success, and, instead of reaching the summit, we might -have to content ourselves with merely crossing the ridge. We continued -cutting, however, and reached the rocks, the last part of the slope -having once more become exceedingly steep. To turn the cliff, here -unclimbable, we first spent over half an hour in prospecting to the -right, where a steep ice-gully appeared between the rocks and the -hanging glacier; but, abandoning this, we struck off to the left, -cutting a long traverse, during which we were able to hitch the rope to -rocks cropping out through the ice. The traverse landed us in a kind of -gully, where, taking to the rocks whenever practicable, though climbing -chiefly by the ice, we reached a broken stony ledge, large and flat -enough to serve as a luncheon place, the only spot we had come across -since leaving the rock rib, where it was possible really to rest -sitting. Luncheon over, we proceeded as before, choosing the rocks as -far as possible by way of change, though continually obliged to take to -the ice-streaks by which they were everywhere intersected. This went on -all the rest of the afternoon, till, when daylight began to wane, we had -attained an elevation considerably above the gap between our mountain -and the Aiguille de Blaitire, or more than 10,900 feet above the sea. - -"The persistent steepness and difficulty of the mountain had already put -our reaching the ridge before dark entirely out of the question, though -we decided to keep going as long as daylight lasted, so as to leave as -little work as possible for the morrow. - -"The day had been gloriously fine, practically cloudless throughout, and -I shall never forget the weird look of the ice-slopes beneath, turning -yellow in the evening light, and plunging down and disappearing far -below in the mists which were gathering at the base of the mountain; -also, far, far away, we caught a glimpse of the Lake of Geneva, -somewhere near Lausanne. I had turned away from the retrospect, when an -exclamation from Slingsby called me to look once more. A gap had -appeared in the mists, and there, some 2700 feet below us, as it were on -an inferior stage of the world, we caught a glimpse of the snow-field at -the very foot of the mountain, dusky yellow in the last rays of the sun. -Mummery was in the meantime continuing the everlasting chopping, in the -intervals of crawling up disobliging slabs of rock, till twilight began -to deepen into darkness, and we had to look about for a perch on which -to roost for the night. The only spot we could find, sufficiently large -for all three of us to sit, was a small patch of lumps of rocks, more or -less loose, some 20 or 30 feet below where we stood, and we succeeded, -just as the light failed, or about 8.30 P.M., and after some -engineering, in seating ourselves side by side upon it. Our boots were -wet through by long standing in ice-steps, and we took them off and -wrung the water out of our stockings. The others put theirs on again, -but, as a precaution against frost-bite, having pocketed my stockings, I -put my feet, wrapped in a woollen cap, inside the rucksack, with the -result that they remained warm through the night. The half hour which it -took me next morning to pull on the frozen boots proved, however, an -adequate price for the privilege of having warm feet. As a precaution -against falling off our shelf we hitched the rope over a rock above and -passed it round us, and to make sure of not losing my boots (awful -thought!), I tied them to it by the laces. - -"After dinner we settled down to spend the evening. The weather -fortunately remained perfect, and the moon had risen, though hidden from -us by our mountain. Immediately below lay Chamonix, like a cheap -illumination, gradually growing more patchy as the night advanced and -the candles went out one by one, while above the stars looked down as -if silently wondering why in the world we were sitting there. The first -two hours were passed without very much discomfort, but having left -behind our extra wraps to save weight, as time wore on the cold began to -make itself felt, and though fortunately never severe enough to be -dangerous, made us sufficiently miserable. Packed as we were, we were -unable to indulge in those exercises generally adopted to induce warmth, -and we shivered so vigorously at intervals that, when all vibrating in -unison, we wondered how it might affect the stability of our perch. -Sudden cramp in a leg, too, could only be relieved by concerted action, -it being necessary for the whole party to rise solemnly together like a -bench of judges, while the limb was stretched out over the valley of -Chamonix till the pain abated, and it could be folded up and packed away -once more. We sang songs, told anecdotes, and watched the ghostly effect -of the moonlight on a subsidiary pinnacle of the mountain, the -illuminated point of which, in reality but a short distance away, looked -like a phantom Matterhorn seen afar off over an inky black _arte_ -formed by the shadow thrown across its base by the adjoining ridge. We -had all solemnly vowed not to drop asleep, and for me this was -essential, as my centre of gravity was only just within the base of -support; but while endeavouring to give effect to another chorus, in -spite of the very troublesome _vibrato_ before referred to, I was -grieved and startled at the sudden superfluous interpolation of two -sustained melancholy bass notes, each in a different key and ominously -suggestive of snoring. The pensive attitude of my companions' heads -being in keeping with their song, in accordance with a previous -understanding, I imparted to Mummery, who sat next to me, a judicious -shock, but, as in the case of a row of billiard balls in contact, the -effect was most noticeable at the far end, and _Slingsby_ awoke, -heartily agreeing with me how weak it was of Mummery to give way thus. -The frequent necessity for repeating this operation, with strengthening -variations as the effect wore off, soon stopped the chorus which, like -Sullivan's 'Lost Chord,' trembled away into silence. - -"The lights of Chamonix had by this time shrunk to a mere moth-eaten -skeleton of their earlier glory, and I became weakly conscious of a sort -of resentment at the callous selfishness of those who could thus sneak -into their undeserved beds, without a thought of the three devoted -explorers gazing down at them from their eyrie on the icy rocks. - -"From 2 to 4 o'clock the cold became more intense, aggravated by a -slight 'breeze of morning,' and while waiting for dawn we noticed that -it was light enough to see. - -"Daylight, however, did not help Mummery to find his hat, and we -concluded it had retired into the _bergschrund_ under cover of darkness. - -"We helped each other into a standing position, and decided to start for -the next patch of rocks above, from there to determine what chance of -success there might be in making a dash for the summit, or, failing -this, of simply crossing the ridge and descending to the Col du Gant. -There was very little food left, and, as we had brought no wine, -breakfast was reduced to a slight sketch, executed with little taste and -in a few very dry touches. Owing to the time required to disentangle -virulently kinked and frozen ropes, etc., the sun was well above the -horizon when we once more started upwards, though unfortunately, just at -this time, when his life-giving rays would have been most acceptable, -they were entirely intercepted by the ridge of the Blaitire. We started -on the line of steps cut the night before, but soon after Mummery had -recommenced cutting, the cold, or rather the impossibility, owing to the -enforced inaction, to get warm, produced such an overpowering feeling of -drowsiness that Slingsby and I, at Mummery's suggestion, returned to the -perch, and jamming ourselves into the space which had before -accommodated our six legs, endeavoured to have it out in forty winks. -Mummery meanwhile continued step-cutting, and at the end of about half -an hour, during which Slingsby and I were somewhat restored by a fitful -dose, returned, and we tied on again for another attempt. - -"Surmounting the patches of rock immediately above our dormitory, we -arrived at the foot of another slope of terribly steep, hard ice, some -200 feet in height. At the top of this again was a vertical crag 14 or -15 feet high, forming the outworks of the next superior band of rocks, -which was interspersed with ice-streaks as before. A few feet from the -base of this crag was a narrow ledge about 1 foot in width, where we -were able to sit after scraping it clear of snow. Slingsby gave Mummery -a leg up round a very nasty corner, and he climbed to a point above the -crag, whence he was able to assist us with the rope up a still higher -and narrower ledge. Beyond was another steep slope of hard ice, topped -by a belt of rocks, as before. - -"Before reaching this point the cold had again begun to tell upon me, -and I bitterly regretted the mistaken policy of leaving behind our extra -wraps, especially as the coat I was wearing was not lined. As there was -no probability of a change for the better in the nature of the going -before the ridge was reached, I began to doubt the wisdom of proceeding, -affected as I was, where a false step might send the whole party into -the _bergschrund_ 3000 feet below; but it was very hard, with the summit -in view and the most laborious part of the ascent already accomplished, -to be the first to cry 'Hold!' I hesitated for some time before doing -so, and the others meanwhile had proceeded up the slope. The rope was -almost taut when I shouted to them the state of the case, and called a -council of war. They returned to me, and we discussed what was -practically something of the nature of a dilemma. To go on at the same -slow rate of progress and without the sun's warmth meant, on the one -hand, the possible collapse of at least one of the party from cold, -while, on the other hand, to turn back involved the descent of nearly -3000 feet of ice, and the passage, if we could not turn it, of the -couloir and its ghastly ice-wall. Partly, I think, to delay for a time -the adoption of the latter formidable alternative, partly to set at rest -any doubt which might still remain as to the nature of the going above, -Mummery volunteered to ascend alone to the rocks at the summit of the -ice-slope, though the chance of their offering any improved conditions -was generally felt to be a forlorn hope. He untied the rope, threw the -end down to us, and retraced his steps up the slope, in due time -reaching the rocks some 100 or 130 feet above, but, after prospecting in -more than one direction, returned to us with the report that they -offered no improvement, and that the intersecting streaks were nothing -but hard ice. He, however, was prepared to continue the attempt if we -felt equal to the task. If we could at that moment have commanded a cup -of hot soup or tea, or the woollen jackets which in our confidence in -being able to reach the ridge we had left behind, I am convinced I -should have been quite able to proceed, and that the day and the -mountain would have been ours; but in the absence of these reviving -influences and that of the sun, I was conscious that in my own case, at -any rate, it would be folly to persist, so gave my vote for descending. -As the food was practically exhausted, the others agreed that it would -be wiser to face the terrible ordeal which retracing our steps involved -(we did not then know that it meant recutting them), rather than -continue the ascent with weakened resources and without absolute -certainty of the accessibility of the summit ridge. - -"As Slingsby on the previous day had insisted on being regarded merely -as a passenger, and had therefore not shared in the step-cutting, it was -now arranged that he should lead, while Mummery, as a tower of strength, -brought up the rear. Though it was past five o'clock, and of course -broad daylight, a bright star could be seen just over the ridge of our -mountain, not far from the summit--alas! the only one anywhere near it -on that day. We started downwards at a steady pace, and soon were -rejoicing in the returning warmth induced by the more continuous -movement. Before we had gone far, however, we found that most of the -steps were partially filled up with ice, water having flowed into them -during the previous afternoon, and the work of trimming or practically -recutting these was at times exceedingly trying, owing to their distance -apart, and the consequent necessity of working in a stooping and cramped -position. - -"But if the work was tough the worker, fortunately, was tougher still, -and Mummery and I congratulated ourselves on being able to send such -powerful reserves to the front. - -"The morning was well advanced before the sun surmounted the cold screen -of the Blaitire, but having once got to work he certainly made up by -intensity for his tardy appearance. - -"The provisions, with the exception of a scrap or two of cheese and a -morsel of chocolate, being exhausted, and having, as before stated, -nothing with us in the form of drink, nothing was to be gained by a -halt, though, as we descended with as much speed as possible, we kept a -sharp look-out for any signs of trickling water with which to quench the -thirst, which was becoming distressing. - -"Since finally deciding to return, we had cherished the hope that it -might still be possible to turn the ice-wall by way of the great rock -buttress, and made up our minds at any rate to inspect it from above. -With this in view, when the point was reached where we had on the -previous day struck the flank of the hanging glacier instead of -continuing in the tracks which trended to the right across the long -ice-slope, we cut straight down by the side of the glacier to its foot, -and over the slope below, in the direction of the _sracs_ immediately -crowning the summit of the buttress. - -"On nearer approach, however, it was manifest that even if by hours of -step-cutting a passage from the ice to the rocky crest below could be -successfully forced, descent by the latter was more than doubtful, while -the consequences of failure were not to be thought of. - -"Driven, therefore, finally to descend by the couloir, we cut a -horizontal traverse which brought us back into the old tracks, a short -way above the point where the ice began to steepen for the final plunge, -where we braced ourselves for the last and steepest 1000 feet of ice. -Slingsby still led, and, on arriving at the spot below our second -breakfast-place, where I had last cut pigeon-holes, joyfully announced -that one of them contained water. He left his drinking cup in an -adjoining step for our use as we passed the spot in turn, and the fact -that it was only visible when on a level with our faces may give some -idea of the steepness of the descent. The delight of that drink was -something to remember, though only obtainable in thimblefuls, and I -continued dipping so long that Mummery became alarmed, being under the -impression that the cup was filled each time. - -"Mummery had previously volunteered, in case we were driven to return by -the couloir, to descend first, and recut the steps and hand-holes in the -ice-wall, and as we approached the brink we looked about for some -projecting stone or knob of rock which might serve as a hitch for the -rope during the operation. The only available projection was a pointed -stone of doubtful security, somewhat removed from the line of descent, -standing out of the ice at the foot of a smooth vertical slab of rock on -the left. Round this we hitched the rope, Slingsby untying to give the -necessary length. With our feet firmly planted, each in its own -ice-step, we paid out the rope as Mummery descended and disappeared over -the edge. It was an hour before he re-appeared, and this period of -enforced inaction was to me, and I think to Slingsby, the most trying of -the whole expedition. The want of food was beginning to tell on our -strength, the overpowering drowsiness returned, and though it was -absolutely essential for the safety of the party to stand firmly in the -ice-steps, it required a strong effort to avoid dropping off to sleep in -that position. We were fortunately able to steady ourselves by grasping -the upper edge of the ice where it adjoined the rocky slab under which -we stood. This weariness, however, must have been quite as much mental -as physical from the long-continued monotony of the work, for when -Mummery at last reappeared we felt perfectly equal to the task of -descending. The rope was passed behind a boss of _nv_ ingeniously -worked by Mummery as a hitch to keep it perpendicular, and I descended -first, but had no occasion to rely upon it for more than its moral -support, as the steps and hand-holds had been so carefully cut. I -climbed cautiously down the icy cataract till I reached a point where -hand-holds were not essential to maintain the balance, and waited with -my face almost against the ice till Slingsby joined me. Mummery soon -followed, and rather than leave the spare rope behind detached it from -the stone and descended without its aid, his nerve being to all -appearance unimpaired by the fatigues he had gone through. I had before -had evidence of his indifference while on the mountains to all forms of -food or drink, with the single exception, by the way, of strawberry jam, -on the production of which he generally capitulates. - -"Rejoicing at having successfully passed the steepest portion of the -ice-wall without the smallest hitch of the wrong sort, we steadily -descended the face of the couloir. - -"Here and there, where a few of the steps had been hewn unusually far -apart, I was fain to cut a notch or two for the fingers before lowering -myself into the next one below. At last the rock rib was reached, and we -indulged in a rest for the first time since turning to descend. - -"Time, however, was precious, and we were soon under way again, -retracing our steps over the steep loose rocks at the base of the rib -till forced again on to the ice. - -"Oh, that everlasting hard ice-slope, so trustworthy yet so relentlessly -exacting! - -"Before we could clear the rocks, and as if by way of hint that the -mountain had had enough of us, and of me in particular (I could have -assured it the feeling was mutual), a flick of the rope sent my hat and -goggles flying down to keep company with Mummery's in the _bergschrund_, -and a sharp rolling stone, which I foolishly extended my hand to check, -gashed me so severely as to put climbing out of the question for more -than a week. As small pieces of ice had been whizzing down for some time -from above, though we saw no stones, it was satisfactory to find our -steps across the lower part of the couloir in sufficiently good order to -allow of our putting on a good pace, and we soon reached the sheltering -rock on the opposite side and the slopes below the _bergschrund_ wherein -our hats, after losing their heads, had found a grave. The intense -feeling of relief on regaining, at 5.55 P.M., safe and easy ground, -where the lives of the party were not staked on every step, is difficult -to describe, and was such as I had never before experienced. I think the -others felt something like the same sensation. Fatigue, kept at bay so -long as the stern necessity for caution lasted, seemed to come upon us -with a rush, though tempered with the sense of freedom from care -aforesaid, and I fancy our progress down the glacier snow was for a time -rather staggery. Though tired, we were by no means exhausted, and after -a short rest on a flat rock and a drink from a glacier runnel, found -ourselves sufficiently vigorous to make good use of the remaining -daylight to cross the intervening glaciers, moraines, and valley of -boulders, before commencing to skirt the tedious and, in the dark, -exasperating stony wastes of the Charmoz ridge. Sternly disregarding the -allurements of numerous stonemen, which here seem to grow wild, to the -confusion of those weak enough to trust them, we stumbled along amongst -the stones to the brow of the hill overlooking the hotel, where shouts -from friends greeted the appearance of our lantern, and, descending by -the footpath, we arrived among them at 10.30 P.M., more than fifty-four -hours after our departure on the 12th." - -[Illustration: ON A SNOW RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: MRS. AUBREY LE BLOND, 1903. By Royston Le Blond.] - -[Illustration: A HALT FOR LUNCH ABOVE THE SNOW LINE.] - -[Illustration: MRS. AUBREY LE BLOND. By Joseph Imboden. - -_To face_ p. 51.] - - - - -CHAPTER III - -SOME AVALANCHE ADVENTURES - - -We should never have got into such a position, but when definite orders -are not carried out the General must not be blamed. The adventure might -easily have cost all three of us our lives. - -This is how we came to be imperilling our necks on an incoherent -snow-ridge 13,000 feet above the sea. It was the end of September, and -my two guides and I were waiting at Zermatt to try the Dent Blanche, a -proceeding which, later on, was amply justified by success. Much fresh -snow had recently fallen, and the slopes of the mountains were running -down towards the valleys faster than the most active chamois could have -galloped up them. Idleness is an abomination to the keen climber, and -doubly so if he be an enthusiastic photographer, and the sun shone each -day from a cloudless sky. Something had to be done, but what could we -choose? All the safe second-class ascents up which one might wade -through fresh snow without risk, we had accomplished over and over -again. Something new to us was what we wanted, and what eventually we -found in the stately Hohberghorn. Now this peak is seldom ascended. It -is overtopped by two big neighbours, and until these have been done, no -one is likely to climb the less imposing peak. Furthermore, the -Hohberghorn is a grind, and though we got enough excitement and to spare -out of it, yet in our case the circumstances were peculiar. The view was -certain to be grand, and, _faute de mieux_, we decided to start for it. - -On this occasion, in addition to my guide of many years' standing, the -famous Joseph Imboden of St Nicholas, I had a second man, who had a -great local reputation in his native valley at the other end of -Switzerland (and deservedly so, as far as his actual climbing ability -was concerned), but who had never been on a rope with Imboden before. -This was the cause of the appalling risk we ran during our expedition. -We arrived in good time at the hut, and found another party, who -proposed going up the Dom, the highest mountain entirely in Switzerland -(14,900 feet) next day. Our way lay together for a couple of hours over -the great glacier, and we proceeded the following morning in magnificent -weather towards our respective peaks. - -It was heavy work ploughing our way through the soft new snow, and we -could not advance except very slowly. As a result, it was already -mid-day when we gained the ridge of the Hohberghorn, not far below the -summit. The sun streamed pitilessly down, the snow cracked and slipped -at every step. To understand what followed, our position must now be -made clear. Imboden, who led, was on the very crest of the ridge. Next -to him on the rope, at a distance of about 20 feet, was my place, also -on the ridge. At an equal distance behind me was the second guide. He -was a trifle below the ridge, on the side to our left. We stood still -for a moment, and then Imboden distinctly but very quietly remarked to -the other man, "Be on your guard. At any moment now we may expect an -avalanche." I never to this day can understand how he failed to grasp -what this meant. It should have been obvious that it was a warning to -look out, and at the first sign of approaching danger to step down on to -the other side of the ridge. Had not this been a perfectly simple thing -to do, we should not have continued the ascent, but the second guide -failed us hopelessly when the critical moment came. Imboden, to avoid a -small cornice or overhanging eave of snow to our right, now took a few -steps along and below the ridge to the left, while the man behind me -came in the tracks to the crest, and I followed the leader. From this -position the last man could in an instant have been down the slope to -his right, and have held us with the greatest ease. - -We advanced a yard or two further, and then the entire surface upon -which we stood commenced to move! A moment more and we were struggling -for our lives, dashing our axes through the rushing snow, and -endeavouring to arrest our wild career, which, unless checked at once, -would cause us to be precipitated down the entire face of the mountain, -to the glacier below. Then it was that the firm bed of snow beneath the -newer layer stood us in good stead. Our axes held, and, breathless, -bruised and startled, we found ourselves clinging to the slope, while -the avalanche, momentarily increasing in volume, thundered down towards -the snow-fields below, where at length, heaped high against the -mountain-side, it came to rest. - -We now took stock of the position. We were practically unhurt, but so -confused and rapid had been the slip that the rope was entangled round -us in a manner wonderful to behold. There was nothing to prevent us -reaching the summit, for every atom of fresh snow had been swept away -from the slope, so we continued our climb, and soon were able to rest on -the top. To this day, Imboden and I always look back to our adventure -on the Hohberghorn as the greatest peril either of us has ever faced. - -More than one instance has been recorded where, owing to the prompt -action of the last man on the rope, fatal accidents on snow-ridges have -been avoided. The two most famous occasions in Alpine annals[2] were -when Hans Grass saved his party on Piz Pal, and when Ulrich Almer -performed his marvellous feat on the Gabelhorn. It is true that in both -these cases the risk was due to the breaking away of a snow-cornice, but -the remedy was exactly the same as it ought to have been when our -avalanche was started. - -I have only to add that we found the other party at the hut, much -exhausted by their unsuccessful attempt on the Dom, and very anxious on -our account, as they both heard and saw the avalanche which had so -nearly ended our mountaineering career. - -The famous climber, Mr Tuckett, has very kindly allowed me to quote from -_Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers_, the following description of a narrow -escape from an avalanche while descending the Aletschhorn: - -"We had accomplished in safety a distance of scarcely more than 150 -yards when, as I was looking at the Jungfrau, my attention was -attracted by a sudden exclamation from Victor, who appeared to stagger -and all but lose his balance. At first, the idea of some sort of seizure -or an attack of giddiness presented itself, but, without stopping to -enquire, I at once turned round, drove my good 8-foot ash-pole as deeply -as possible through the surface layer of fresh snow into the firmer -stratum beneath, tightened the rope to give Victor support, and shouted -to Peter to do the same. All this was the work of an instant, and a -glance at once showed me what had happened. Victor was safe for the -moment, but a layer or _couche_ of snow, 10 inches to a foot in -thickness, had given way exactly beneath his feet, and first gently, and -then fleet as an arrow, went gliding down, with that unpleasant sound -somewhat resembling the escape of steam, which is so trying to the -nerves of the bravest man, when he knows its full and true significance. -At first a mass 80 to 100 yards in breadth and 10 or 15 in length alone -gave way, but the contagion spread, and ere another minute had elapsed -the slopes right and left of us for an extent of at least half a mile, -were in movement, and, like a frozen Niagara, went crashing down the -ice-precipices and _sracs_ that still lay between us and the Aletsch -glacier, 1800 to 2000 feet below. The spectacle was indescribably -sublime, and the suspense for a moment rather awful, as we were -clinging to an incline at least as steep as that on the Grindelwald side -of the Strahleck--to name a familiar example--and it was questionable -whether escape would be possible, if the layer of snow on the portion of -the slope we had just been traversing should give way before we could -retrace our steps. - -"Not a moment was to be lost; no word was spoken after the first -exclamation, and hastily uttered, 'Au col! et vite!' and then in dead -silence, with _btons_ held aloft like harpoons, ready to be plunged -into the lower and older layers of snow, we stole quietly but rapidly up -towards the now friendly-looking _corniche_, and in a few minutes stood -once more in safety on the ridge, with feelings of gratitude for our -great deliverance, which, though they did not find utterance in words, -were, I believe, none the less sincerely felt by all of us. 'Il n'a -manqu que peu un grand malheur,' quietly remarked Victor, who looked -exhausted, as well he might be after what he had gone through; but a -_goutte_ of cognac all round soon set us right again, and shouting to -Bennen, who was still in sight, though dwindled in size to a mere point, -we were soon beside him, running down the _nv_ of our old friend, the -Aren Glacier. The snow was now soft and the heat tremendous, and both -Bennen and Bohren showed signs of fatigue; but a rapid pace was still -maintained in spite of the frequent crevasses. Some were cleared in a -series of flying leaps, whilst into others which the snow concealed, one -and another would occasionally sink, amid shouts of laughter from his -companions, who, in their turn, underwent a similar fate. To the -carefully secured rope, which, with the alpenstock and ice axe, are the -mountaineer's best friends, we owed it that these sudden immersions were -a mere matter of joke; but even the sense of security which it confers -does not altogether prevent a 'creepy' sensation from being experienced, -as the legs dangle in vacancy, and the sharp metallic ring of the icy -fragments is heard as they clatter down into the dark blue depths -below." - -The higher and more snow-laden the mountain chain, the more risk is -there from avalanches. It seems practically certain that Mr Mummery met -his death in the Himalayas from an avalanche, and that Messrs Donkin and -Fox and their two Swiss guides perished in the Caucasus from a like -cause. Sir W. Martin Conway, in his book on the Himalayas, makes several -allusions to avalanches, and on at least one occasion, some members of -his party had a narrow escape. He relates the adventure as follows: - -[Illustration: A cutting through an immense avalanche which fell some -months previously.] - -[Illustration: The remains of a large avalanche.] - -[Illustration: An avalanche of stones.] - -[Illustration: A mountain chapel near Zermatt where special prayers are -offered for defence against avalanche. - -_To face_ p. 59.] - -"Zurbriggen and I had no more than set foot upon the grass, when we -beheld a huge avalanche-cloud descending over the whole width of the -ice-fall, utterly enveloping both it and a small rock-rib and couloir -beside it. Bruce and the Gurkhas were below the rib, and could only see -up the couloir. They thought the avalanche was a small one confined to -it, and so they turned back and ran towards the foot of the ice-fall. -This was no improvement in position, and there was nothing for them to -do then but to run straight away from it, and get as far out to the flat -glacier as they could. The fall started from the very top of the Lower -Burchi peak, and tumbled on to the plateau above the ice-fall; it flowed -over this, and came down the ice-fall itself. We saw the cloud before we -heard the noise, and then it only reached us as a distant rumble. We had -no means of guessing the amount of solid snow and ice that there might -be in the heart of the cloud. The rumble increased in loudness, and was -soon a thunder that swallowed up our puny shouts, so that Bruce could -not hear our warning. Had he heard he could easily have reached the -sheltered position we gained before the cloud came on him. Zurbriggen -and I cast ourselves upon our faces, but only the edge of the cloud and -an ordinary strong wind reached us. Our companions were entirely -enveloped in it. They afterwards described to us how they raced away -like wild men, jumping crevasses which they could not have cleared in -cold blood. When the snow just enveloped them, the wind raised by it -cast them headlong on the ice. This, however, was the worst that -happened. The snow peppered them all over, and soaked them to the skin, -but the solid part of the avalanche was happily arrested in the midst of -the ice-fall, and never came in sight. When the fog cleared they were -all so out of breath that for some minutes they could only stand and -regard one another in panting silence. They presently rejoined us, and -we halted for a time on the pleasant grass." - -In the olden days, before the great Alpine lines had tunnelled beneath -the mountains and made a journey from one side of the range to the other -in midwinter as safe and as comfortable as a run from London to -Brighton, passengers obliged to cross the Alps in winter or spring were -exposed to very real peril from avalanches. Messrs Newnes have -courteously allowed me to make a short extract from an article which -appeared in one of their publications, and in which is described the -adventures of two English ladies who were obliged to return home -suddenly from Innsbruck on account of the illness of a near relative. -Their shortest route was by _diligence_ to Constance, over the Arlberg -Pass, and although it was considered extremely dangerous at that time of -year--the beginning of May 1880--they resolved to make the attempt. Much -anxiety with regard to avalanches was felt in neighbouring villages, as -the sun had lately been very hot, and the snow had become rotten and -undermined. Owing to heavy falls during the previous winter, the -accumulation of snow was enormous, and thus the two travellers set out -under the worst possible auspices. The conductor of the _diligence_ -warned them of the danger, and told them on no account to open a window -or to make any movement which could shake the coach. He got in with them -and sat opposite, looking very worried and anxious. They reached the -critical part of their journey, and, to quote Mrs Brewer's words: - -"Suddenly a low, booming sound, like that of a cannon on a battlefield -or a tremendous peal of thunder, broke on our ears, swelling into a -deafening crash; and in a moment we were buried in a vast mass of snow. -One of the immense piles from the mountain above had crashed down upon -us, carrying everything with it. At the same moment we felt a violent -jerk of the coach, and heard a kind of sound which expressed terror; -but, happily, our vehicle did not turn over, as it seemed likely to do -for a minute or so. There we sat--for how long I know not--scarcely -able to breathe, the snow pressing heavily against the windows, and -utterly blocking out light and air, so that breathing was a painful -effort. And now came a curious sensation. It was an utter suspension of -thought, and of every mental and physical faculty. - -"True, in a sort of unconscious way I became aware that the guard was -sobbing out a prayer for his wife and children; but it had not the -slightest effect on me. - -"We might have been buried days and nights for all I knew, for I kept no -count of time. In reality, I believe it was but a couple of hours -between the fall of the avalanche and the first moment of hope, which -came in the form of men striking with pickaxes. The sound seemed to come -from a long distance--almost, as it were, from another world. - -"The guard, roused by the noise, said earnestly: 'Ach Gott! I thank -Thee.' And then, speaking to us, he said: 'Ladies, help is near!' - -"Gradually the sound of the digging and the voices of the men grew -nearer, till at length one window was open--the one overlooking the -valley; and the life-giving air stole softly in upon us. Even now, -however, we were told not to move; not that we had any inclination to do -so, for we were in a dazed, half-conscious condition. When at length we -used our eyes, it was to note that the valley did not seem so deep, and -that the villages with their church spires had disappeared; the meaning -of it was not far to seek. - -"We were both good German scholars, and knew several of the dialects, so -that we were able to learn a good deal of what had happened by listening -to the men's talk. The school inspector in his terror had lost all -self-control, and forgetful of the warnings given him, threw himself off -the seat and leaped into space, thereby endangering the safety of all. -He mercifully fell into one of the clumps of trees some distance down -the slope, and so escaped without very much damage to himself, except -shock to the system and bruises. The poor horses, however, fared -infinitely worse. The weight of the snow lifted the rings from the hooks -on the carriage, and at the same time carried the poor brutes down with -it into the valley--never again to do a day's work. - -"The difficulties still before us were very serious. We could neither go -backward nor forward, and there was danger of more avalanches falling. -The next posting village was still far ahead, and there was no chance of -our advancing a step until the brave body of men could cut a way through -or make a clearance, and even then time would be required to bring back -horses." - -The ladies were at last extricated from their still dangerous position, -and amid a scene of the greatest excitement, arrived at a little -Tyrolese village. The people could not do enough to welcome them, and -every kindness was shown to them. Thus ended a wonderfully narrow escape -for all who were concerned in the adventure. - -[Illustration: A mountain path.] - -[Illustration: A village completely buried beneath an avalanche.] - -[Illustration: Peasants of the mountains.] - -[Illustration: Terraces cut on the hill sides and planted with trees to -prevent the fall of avalanches. - -_To face_ p. 65.] - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE - - -One of the treasures of collectors of Alpine books is a small volume in -Italian by Ignazio Somis. The British Museum has not only a copy of the -original, but also a couple of translations, from one of which, -published in 1768, I take the following account. I have left the quaint -old spelling and punctuation just as they were; they accentuate the -vividness and evident truth of this "True and Particular Account of the -most Surprising preservation and happy deliverance of three women," who -were buried for a month under an avalanche. The occurrence was fully -investigated by Ignazio Somis, who visited the village of Bergemoletto, -and obtained his narrative from the lips of one of the survivors. - -"In the month of February and March of the year 1755, we had in Turin, a -great fall of rain, the sky having been almost constantly overcast from -the ninth of February till the twenty-fourth of March. During this -interval, it rained almost every day, but snowed only on the morning of -the twenty-first of February, when the liquor of Reaumur's thermometer -stood but one degree above the freezing point. Now, as it often snows in -the mountains, when it only rains in the plain; it cannot appear -surprising that during this interval, there fell vast quantities of snow -in the mountains that surround us, and in course, several valancas[3] -were formed. In fact, there happened so many in different places on the -side of Aosta, Lanzo, Susa, Savoy, and the county of Nice, that by the -end of March, no less than two hundred persons had the misfortune of -losing their lives by them. Of these overwhelmed by these valancas, -three persons, however, Mary Anne Roccia Bruno, Anne Roccia, and -Margaret Roccia, had reason to think themselves in other respects, -extremely happy, having been dug alive on the twenty-fifth of April, out -of a stable, under the ruins of which, they had been buried, the -nineteenth of March, about nine in the morning, by a valanca of snow, -forty-two feet higher than the roof, to the incredible surprise of all -those who saw them, and afterwards heard them relate how they lived all -this while, with death, as we may say, continually staring them in the -face. - -"The road from Demonte to the higher valley of Stura, runs amidst many -mountains, which, joining one another, and sometimes rising to a great -height, form a part of those Alps, by historians and geographers, called -maritime Alps, separating the valley of Stura and Piedmont, from -Dauphiny and the county of Nice. Towards the middle of the road leading -to the top of these mountains, and on the left of the river Stura, we -meet with a village called Bergemolo, passing through which village, and -still keeping the road through the said valley, we, at about a mile -distance, arrive at a little hamlet called Bergemoletto, containing -about one hundred and fifty souls. From this place there run two narrow -lanes, both to the right and left, one less steep and fatiguing than the -other, and in some measure along two valleys, to the mountains. The -summit of the mountain makes the horizon an angle much greater than 45, -and so much greater in some places, as to be in a manner perpendicular, -so that it is a very difficult matter to climb it, even by a winding -path. Now it was from the summit of the aforesaid mountains that fell -the valancas of snow, which did so much mischief, and almost entirely -destroyed the hamlet of Bergemoletto. - -"The bad weather which prevailed in so many other places, prevailed -likewise in the Foresta of Bergemoletto. By this word Foresta, the -Alpineers understand the villages dispersed over the vallies covered -with small trees and bushes, and surrounded with high mountains; for it -began to snow early in March, and the fall increased so much on the 16, -17, 18 and 19, that many of the inhabitants began to apprehend, and not -without reason, that the weight of that which was already fallen, and -still continued to fall, might crush their houses, built with stones -peculiar to the country, cemented by nothing but mud, and a very small -portion of lime, and covered with thatch laid on a roof of shingles and -large thin stones, supported by thick beams. They, therefore, got upon -their roofs to lighten them of the snow. At a little distance from the -church, stood the house of Joseph Roccia, a man of about fifty, husband -of Mary Anne, born in Demonte, of the family of Bruno; who, with his son -James, a lad of fifteen, had, like his neighbours, got upon the roof of -his house on the 19th in the morning in order to lessen the weight on -it, and thereby prevent its destruction. In the meantime the clergyman -who lived in the neighbourhood, and was about leaving home, in order to -repair to the church, and gather his people together to hear mass; -perceiving a noise towards the top of the mountains, and turning his -trembling eyes towards the quarter from whence he thought it came, -discovered two valancas driving headlong towards the village. Wherefore -raising his voice he gave Joseph notice, instantly to come down from -the roof, to avoid the impending danger, and then immediately retreated -himself into his own house. - -"These two valancas met and united, so as to form but one valanca which -continued to descend towards the valley, where, on account of the -increase of its bulk, the diminution of its velocity and the insensible -declivity of the plane it stopped and arrested by the neighbouring -mountain, though it covered a large tract of land, did no damage either -to the houses or the inhabitants. Joseph Roccia, who had formerly -observed that the fall of one valanca was often attended with that of -others, immediately came off the roof at the priest's notice, and with -his son fled as hard as he could towards the church, without well -knowing, however, which way he went; as is usually the case with the -Alpineers, when they guess by the report in the air, that some valanca -is falling or seeing it fall with their own eyes. The poor man had -scarce advanced forty steps, when hearing his son fall just at his -heels, he turned about to assist him, and taking him up, saw the spot on -which his house, his stable, and those of some of his neighbours stood, -converted into a huge heap of snow, without the least sign of either -walls or roofs. Such was his agony at this sight, and at the thoughts -of having lost in an instant, his wife, his sister, his family, and all -the little he had saved, with many years increasing labour and economy, -that hale and hearty, as he was, he immediately, as if heaven and earth -were come together, lost his senses, swooned away, and tumbled upon the -snow. His son now helped him, and he came to himself little by little; -till at last, by leaning upon him, he found himself in a condition to -get on the valanca, and, in order to re-establish his health there, set -out for the house of his friend, Spirito Roccia, about one hundred feet -distant from the spot, where he fell. Mary Anne, his wife, who was -standing with her sister-in-law Anne, her daughter Margaret, and her son -Anthony, a little boy two years old, at the door of the stable, looking -at the people throwing the snow from off the houses, and waiting for the -ringing of the bell that was to call them to prayers, was about taking a -turn to the house, in order to light a fire, and air a shirt for her -husband, who could not but want that refreshment after his hard labour. -But before she could set out, she heard the priest cry out to them to -come down quickly, and raising her trembling eyes, saw the foresaid -valancas set off, and roll down the side of the mountain, and at the -same instant heard a horrible report from another quarter, which made -her retreat back quickly with her family, and shut the door of the -stable. Happy it was for her, that she had time to do so; this noise -being occasioned by another immense valanca, the whole cause of all the -misery and distress, she had to suffer for so long a time. And it was -this very valanca, over which Joseph, her husband was obliged to pass -after his fit, in his way to the house of Spirito Roccia. - -"Some minutes after the fall of the valanca another huge one broke off -driving along the valley and beat down the houses which it met in its -course. This valanca increased greatly, by the snow over which it -passed, in its headlong course, and soon reached with so much -impetuosity, the first fallen valanca, it carried away great part of it; -then returning back with this reinforcement, it demolished the houses, -stopping in the valley which it had already overwhelmed in its first -progress. So that the height of the snow, Paris measure, amounted to -more than seventy-seven feet; the length of it to more than four hundred -and twenty-seven and the breadth above ninety-four. Some people affirm -that the concussion of the air occasioned by this valanca, was so great, -that it was heard at Bergemolo, and even burst open some doors and -windows at that place. This I know that nothing escaped it in -Bergemoletto, but a few houses, the church, and the house of John -Arnaud. - -"Being therefore gathered together, in order to sum up their -misfortunes, the inhabitants first counted thirty houses overwhelmed; -and then every one calling over those he knew, twenty-two souls were -missing, of which number, was D. Giulio Caesare Emanuel, their parish -priest, who had lived among them forty years. The news of this terrible -disaster, soon spread itself over the neighbourhood, striking all those -who heard it, with grief and compassion. All the friends and relations -of the sufferers, and many others, flocked of their own accord, from -Bergemolo and Demonte; and many were dispatched by the magistrates of -these places, to try if they could give any relief to so many poor -creatures, who, perhaps, were already suffocated by the vast heap of -snow that lay upon them; so that by the day following, the number -assembled on this melancholy occasion amounted to three hundred. Joseph -Roccia, notwithstanding his great love for his wife and family, and his -desire to recover part of what he had lost, was in no condition to -assist them for five days, owing to the great fright and grief, -occasioned by so shocking an event, and the swoon which overtook him at -the first sight of it. In the meantime, the rest were trying, if, by -driving iron-rods through the hardened snow, they could discover any -roofs; but they tried in vain. The great solidity and compactness of the -valanca, the vast extent of it in length, breadth and heighth, together -with the snow, that still continued to fall in great quantities, eluded -all their efforts; so that after some days' labour, they thought proper -to desist from their trials, finding that it was throwing away their -time and trouble to no purpose. The husband of poor Mary Anne, no sooner -recovered his strength, than in company with his son, and Anthony and -Joseph Bruno, his brothers-in-law who had come to his assistance from -Demonte, where they lived, did all that lay in his power to discover the -spot, under which his house, and the stable belonging to it, were -situated. But neither himself, nor his relations, could make any -discovery capable of affording them the smallest ray of comfort; though -they worked hard for many days, now in one place, and now in another, -unable to give up the thoughts of knowing for certain, whether any of -their family was still alive, or if they had under the snow and the -ruins of the stable, found, at once, both death and a grave. But it was -all labour lost, so that, at length, he thought proper to return to the -house of Spirito Roccia, and there wait, till, the weather growing -milder, the melting of the snow should give him an opportunity of paying -the last duty to his family, and recovering what little of his substance -might have escaped this terrible calamity. - -"Towards the end of March, the weather, through the lengthening of the -days, and the setting in of the warm winds, which continued to blow till -about the twentieth of April, began to grow mild and warm; and, of -course, the great valanca to fall away by the melting of the snow and -ice that composed it; so that little by little, the valley began to -assume its pristine form. This change was very sensible, especially by -the eighteenth of April, so that the time seemed to be at hand for the -surviving inhabitants of Bergemoletto to resume their interrupted -labours, with some certainty of recovering a good part of what they had -lost on the unfortunately memorable morning of the nineteenth of March. -Accordingly, they dispersed themselves over the valanca, some trying in -one place, and some in another, now with long spades, and another time -with thick rods of iron, and other instruments proper to break the -indurated snow. One of the first houses they discovered by this means, -was that of Louisa Roccia, in which they found her dead body, and that -of one of her sons. Next day, in the house called the confreria, that -had two rooms on the ground floor, and one above them, they found the -body of D. Giulio Caesare Emanuel, with his beads in his hand. Joseph -Roccia, animated by these discoveries, set himself with new spirits -about discovering the situation of his house, and the stable belonging -to it; and with spades and iron crows, made several and deep holes in -the snow, throwing great quantities of earth into them; earth mixed -with water, being very powerful in destroying the strong cohesion of -snow and ice. On the twenty-fourth, having made himself an opening two -feet deep into the valanca, he began to find the snow softer and less -difficult to penetrate; wherefore, driving down a long stick, he had the -good fortune of touching the ground with it. - -"It was no small addition to Joseph's strength and spirit, to be thus -able to reach the bottom; so that he would have joyfully continued his -labour, and might perhaps on that very day, had it not been too far -advanced, have recovered some part of what he was looking for, and found -that which, assuredly, he by no means expected to meet with. When, -therefore, he desisted for that time, it was with much greater -reluctance than he had done any of the preceding days. The anxiety of -Joseph, during the following night, may well be compared to that of the -weather-beaten mariner, who finding himself, after a long voyage, at the -mouth of his desired port, is yet, by the coming on of night obliged to -remain on the inconstant waves till next morning. Wherefore, at the -first gleam of light, he, with his son, hastened back to the spot, where -the preceding day he had reached the ground with the stick, and began to -work upon it again; but he had not worked long, when lo, to his great -surprise, who should he see coming to his assistance but his two -brothers-in-law Joseph and Anthony Bruno. - -"Anthony, it seems, the night between the preceding Thursday and Friday, -being then in Delmonte, dreamed that there appeared to him, with a pale -and troubled countenance, his sister Mary Anne Roccia, who, with an -earnestness intermixed with grief and hope, called upon him for -assistance in the following words: - -"'Anthony, though you all look upon me as dead in the stable where the -valanca of snow overwhelmed me on the nineteenth of March, God has kept -me alive. Hasten therefore to my assistance, and to relieve me from my -present wretched condition; in you, my brother, have I placed all my -hopes, dont abandon me; help, help I beseech you.' Anthony's -imagination, was so affected by the thoughts of thus seeing his sister, -and hearing her utter these piteous words, that he immediately started -up, and calling out to his brother Joseph, he acquainted him with what -he had seen and heard. They both, therefore, as soon as it was day, set -out for Bergemoletto, where they arrived a little before eight, tired -and out of breath, for they seemed to have their sister continually -before their eyes, pressing them for help and assistance. Having -therefore taken a little rest and refreshment, they set out again for -the place, where Joseph Roccia, and many others, were hard at work in -looking for the wrecks of their houses. Joseph had left the spot, where, -the day before he thought he had reached the ground, and was trying to -reach it in other places. His brothers-in-law immediately fell to work -with him, and making many new holes in the snow, the interior parts of -which were not so very hard, with the same iron rods, with earth and -with long poles, they at last, about ten, discovered the so long sought -for house, but found no dead bodies in it. Knowing that the stable did -not lie one hundred feet from the house, they immediately directed their -search towards it, and proceeding in the same manner, about noon, they -got a long pole through a hole, from whence issued a hoarse and languid -voice, which seemed to say: 'help, my dear husband, help, my dear -brother, help.' The husband and brother thunderstruck, and at the same -time encouraged by these words, fell to their work with redoubled -ardour, in order to clear away the snow, and open a sufficient way for -themselves, to the place from whence the voice came, and which grew more -and more distinct as the work advanced. It was not long, therefore, -before they had made a pretty large opening, through which (none minding -the danger he exposed himself to) Anthony descended, as into a dark -pit, asking who it was, that could be alive in such a place. Mary Anne -knew him by his voice, and answered with a trembling and broken accent, -intermixed with tears of joy. 'Tis I, my dear brother, who am still -alive in company with my daughter and my sister-in-law, who are at my -elbow. God, in whom I have always trusted, still hoping that he would -inspire you with the thought of coming to our assistance, has been -graciously pleased to keep us alive.' God, who had preserved them to -this moment, and was willing they should live, inspired Anthony with -such strength and spirits, that, notwithstanding the surprise and -tenderness with which so joyful and at the same time so sad a sight must -have affected him, had presence of mind enough to acquaint his -fellow-labourers, all anxiously waiting for the report of his success, -that Mary Anne, Margaret, and Anne Roccia were still alive. Whereupon -Joseph Roccia, and Joseph Bruno, enlarging the passage as well as they -could, immediately followed him into the ruins; whilst the other -Alpineers, scattered over the valanca in quest of their lost substance, -and the dead bodies of their relations, on the son's calling out to -them, flocked round the mouth of the pit, to behold so extraordinary a -sight; not a little heightened by that of two live goats scampering out -of the opening. In the meantime, those who had descended into the hole, -were contriving how to take out of it the poor and more than half dead -prisoners, and convey them to some place, where they might recover -themselves. The first thing they did was to raise them up, and take them -out of the manger in which they had been so long stowed. They then -placed them one by one on their shoulders, and lifted them up to those -who stood round the mouth of the pit, who with very great difficulty -took hold of them by the arms, and drew them out of their dark -habitation. Mary Anne, on being exposed to the open air, and seeing the -light, was attacked by a very acute pain in the eyes, which greatly -weakened her sight, and was attended with so violent a fainting fit, -that she had almost like to have lost, in the first moment of her -deliverance, that life, which she had so long and with such difficulty -preserved. But this was a consequence that might be easily foreseen. She -had been thirty-seven days, secluded, in a manner entirely, from the -open air; nor had the least ray of light, in all that time, penetrated -her pupils. - -"Her son found means to bring her to herself with a little melted snow, -there being nothing else at hand fit for the purpose, and the accident -that happened her was improved into a rule for treating the companions -of her misfortune. They, therefore, covered all their faces, and wrapped -them up so well, as to leave them but just room to breathe, and in this -condition took them to the house of John Arnaud, where Mary Anne was -entirely recovered from her fit, by a little generous wine. They then -directly placed them in some little beds put up in the stable, which was -moderately warm, and almost entirely without light, and prepared for -them a mess of rye meal gruel, mixed with a little butter; but they -could swallow but very little of it." - - - - -CHAPTER V - -A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE--(_continued_) - - -"It is now proper I should say something of the most marvellous -circumstance, attending this very singular and surprising accident, I -mean their manner of supporting life, during so long and close a -confinement. I shall relate what I have heard of it from their own -mouths, being the same, in substance, with what Count Nicholas de -Brandizzo, intendant of the city and province of Cuneo, heard from them -on the sixteenth of May, when, by order of our most benevolent -sovereign, he repaired to Bergemoletto, effectually to relieve these -poor women, and the rest of the inhabitants, who had suffered by the -valanca. - -"To begin then; on the morning of the twenty-ninth of March, our three -poor women, expecting every minute to hear the bell toll for prayers, -had in the mean time, taken shelter from the rigour of the weather, in a -stable built with stones, such as are usually found in these quarters, -with a roof composed of large thin stones, not unlike slate, laid on a -beam ten inches square, and covered with a small quantity of straw, and -with a pitch sufficient to carry off the rain, hail or snow, that might -fall upon it. In the same stable were six goats, (four of which I heard -nothing of) an ass and some hens. Adjoining to this stable, was a little -room, in which they had fixed a bed, and used to lay up some provisions, -in order to sleep in it in bad weather without being obliged to go for -anything to the dwelling-house, which lay about one hundred feet from -it. I have already taken notice, that Mary Anne was looking from the -door of the stable at her husband and son, who were clearing the roof of -its snow, when warned by a horrible noise, the signal by which the -Alpineer knows the tumbling of the valancas, she immediately took -herself in with her sister-in-law, her daughter, and her little boy of -two years old, and shut the door, telling them the reason for doing it -in such a hurry. Soon after they heard a great part of the roof give -way, and some stones fall on the ground, and found themselves involved -on all sides with a pitchy darkness; all which they attributed, and with -good reason, to the fall of some valanca. Upon this, they for some time -thought proper to keep a profound silence, to try if they could hear any -noise, and by that means have the comfort of knowing that help was at -hand, but they could hear nothing. They therefore set themselves to -grope about the stable, but without being able to meet with anything -but solid snow. Anne light upon the door, and opened it, hoping she had -found out the way to escape the imminent danger they thought they were -in of the buildings tumbling about their ears; but she could not -distinguish the least ray of light, nor feel any thing but a hard and -impenetrable wall of snow, with which she acquainted her fellow -prisoners. They, therefore, immediately began to bawl out with all their -might; 'help, help, we are still alive'; repeating it several times; but -not hearing any answer, Anne put the door to again. They continued to -grope about the stable, and Mary Anne having light upon the manger, it -occurred to her, that, as it was full of hay, they might take up their -quarters there, and enjoy some repose, till it should please the -Almighty to send them assistance. The manger was about twenty inches -broad, and lay along a wall, which, by being on one side supported by an -arch, was enabled to withstand the shock, and upheld the chief beam of -the roof, in such a manner, as to prevent the poor women from being -crushed to pieces by the ruins. Mary Anne placed herself in the manger, -putting her son by her, and then advised her daughter and her -sister-in-law to do so too. Upon this, the ass which was tied to the -manger, frightened by the noise, began to bray and prance at a great -rate; so that, fearing lest he should bring the parapet of the manger, -or even the wall itself about their ears; they immediately untied the -halter, and turned him adrift. In going from the manger, he stumbled -upon a kettle that happened to lie in the middle of the stable, which -put Mary Anne upon picking it up, and laying it by her, as it might -serve to melt the snow in for their drink, in case they should happen to -be confined long enough to want that resource. Anne, approving this -thought, got down, and groping on the floor till she had found it, came -back to the manger. - -"In this situation the good women continued many hours, every moment -expecting to be relieved from it; but, at last, being too well -convinced, that they had no immediate relief to expect, they began to -consider how they might support life, and what provisions they had with -them for that purpose. Anne recollected that the day before she had put -some chestnuts into her pocket, but, on counting them, found they -amounted only to fifteen. Their chief hopes, therefore, and with great -reason now rested on thirty or forty cakes, which two days before had -been laid up in the adjoining room. The reader may well imagine, though -Anne had never told me a word of it, with what speed and alertness she -must, on recollecting these cakes, have got out of the manger, to see -and find out the door of the room where they lay; but it was to no -purpose; she roved and roved about the stable to find out what she -wanted, so that she was obliged to come as she went, and take up her -seat again amongst her fellow-sufferers, who still comforted themselves -with the hopes of being speedily delivered from that dark and narrow -prison. In the mean while, finding their appetite return, they had -recourse to their chestnuts. The rest of the chestnuts they reserved for -a future occasion. They then addressed themselves to God, humbly -beseeching him to take compassion on them, and vouchsafe in his great -mercy to rescue them from their dark grave, and from the great miseries -they must unavoidably suffer, in case it did not please him to send them -immediate assistance. They spent many hours in ejaculations of this -kind, and then thinking it must be night, they endeavoured to compose -themselves. Margaret and the little boy, whose tender years prevented -their having any idea of what they had to suffer in their wretched -situation, or any thought of death, and of what they must suffer, before -they could be relieved, fell asleep. But it was otherwise with Mary Anne -and Anne, who could not get the least rest, and spent the whole night in -prayer, or in speaking of their wretched condition, and comforting one -another with the hopes of being speedily delivered from it. As it seemed -to them, after many hours, that it was day again, they endeavoured to -keep up their spirits with the thoughts, that Joseph with the rest of -their friends and relations not getting any intelligence of their -situation, would not fail of doing all that lay in their power to come -at them. The sensation of hunger was earliest felt by the two youngest; -and the little boy crying out for something to eat, and there being -nothing for him but the chestnuts, Anne gave him three. - -"I said, that these women seemed to have some notion of the approach of -day and night, but I should never have dreamed in what manner this idea -could be excited in them, shut up as they were in a body of ice, -impervious to the least ray of light, had not they themselves related it -to me. The hens shut up in the same prison, were it seems the clocks, -which by their clucking all together, made them think the first day that -it was night, and then again after some interval that it was day again. -This is all the notion they had of day and night for two weeks together; -after which, not hearing the hens make any more noise, they no longer -knew when it was day or night. - -"This day the poor women and the boy supported themselves with their -chestnuts; and at the return of the usual signal of night, the boy and -Margaret went to sleep; while the mother and aunt spent it in -conversation and prayer. On the next day the ass by his braying, gave -now and then, for the last time, some signs of life. On the other hand, -the poor prisoners had something to comfort themselves with; for they -discovered two goats making up to the manger. This, therefore, was a -joyful event, and they gave the goats some of the hay they sat upon in -the manger, shrunk up with their knees to their noses. It then came into -Anne's head to try if she could not get some milk from the milch goat; -and recollecting that they used to keep a porringer under the manger for -that purpose, she immediately got down to look for it, and happily found -it. The goat suffered herself to be milked, and yielded almost enough to -fill the cup which contained above a pint. On this they lived the third -day. The night following the boy and the girl slept as usual, while -neither of the two others closed their eyes. Who can imagine how long -the time must have appeared to them, and how impatient they must have -been to see an end to their sufferings? This, after offering their -prayers to the Almighty, was the constant subject of their conversation. -'O, my husband,' Mary Anne used to cry out, 'if you two are not buried -under some of the valancas and dead; why do not you make haste to give -me, your sister, and children, that assistance which we so much stand in -need of? We are thank God, still alive, but cannot hold out much longer, -so it will soon be too late to think of us.' 'Ah, my dear brother,' -added Anne, 'in you next to God, have we placed all our trust. We are -alive, indeed, and it depends upon you to preserve our lives, by digging -us out of the snow and the ruins, in which we lie buried.' 'But let us -still hope,' both of them added, 'that as God has been pleased to spare -our lives, and provide us with the means of prolonging it, he will still -in his great mercy put it into the hearts of our friends and relations -to use all their endeavours to save us.' To this discourse succeeded new -prayers, after which they composed themselves as well as they could, in -order to get, if possible, a little sleep. - -"The hens having given the usual signal of the return of day, they began -again to think on the means of spinning out their lives. Mary Anne -bethought herself anew of the cakes put up in the adjacent room; and -upon which, could they but get at them, they might subsist a great while -without any other nourishment. On the first day of their confinement, -they had found in the manger a pitch fork, which they knew used to be -employed in cleaning out the stable, and drawing down hay through a -large hole in the hay-loft, which lay over the vault. Anne observed, -that such an instrument might be of service in breaking the snow, and -getting at the cakes, could they but recover the door leading into the -little room. She, therefore, immediately got out of the manger, from -which she had not stirred since the first day, and groping about, -sometimes meeting with nothing but snow, sometimes with the wall, and -sometimes loose stones, she, at length, light upon a door, which she -took for the stable door, and endeavoured to open it as she had done the -first day, but without success; an evident sign that the superincumbent -snow had acquired a greater degree of density, and pressed more forcibly -against it. She, therefore, made step by step, the best of her way back -to the manger, all the time conversing with her fellow-sufferers; and -taking the fork with her, continued to rove and grope about, till at -last she light upon a smooth and broad piece of wood, which to the touch -had so much the appearance of the little door, as to make her hope she -had at last found what she had been so earnestly looking for. She then -endeavoured to open it with her hand, but finding it impossible, told -the rest that she had a mind to employ the pitch fork; but Mary Anne -dissuaded her from doing so. 'Let us,' said she, 'leave the cakes where -they are a little longer, and not endanger our lives any further, by -endeavouring to preserve them. Who knows but with the fork, you might -make such destruction, as to bring down upon our heads, that part of the -stable that still continues together, and which, in its fall, could not -fail of crushing us to pieces. No, God keep us from that misfortune. -Lay down your fork Anne, and come back to us, submitting yourself to the -holy will of the Almighty, and patiently accept at his hands whatever he -may please to send us.' Anne, moved by such sound and affecting -arguments and reasons, immediately let the fork fall out of her hands, -and returned to the manger. 'Let us,' continued Mary Anne, 'let us make -as much as we can of our nursing goats, and endeavour to keep them alive -by supplying them with hay. Here is a good deal in the manger, and it -occurs to me, that when that is gone, we may supply them from another -quarter, for by putting up my hand, trying what was above me, I have -discovered that there is hay in the loft, and that the hole to it is -open, and just over our heads; so that we have nothing to do, but to -pull it down for the goats, whose milk we may subsist upon, till it -shall please God to dispose otherwise of us." - -This reasoning was not only sound in itself, but supported by facts; for -ever since their confinement, they had heard stones fall from time to -time upon the ground, and these stones could be no others than those of -the building, which the shock of the valanca had first loosened, and -which the weight it every day acquired by encreasing in density, -afterwards enabled it to displace. Wherefore, had she happened to -disturb with the pitch-fork, as there was the greatest reason to fear -she might, any of those parts, which, united together, served to keep -up the beam that supported the great body of snow, under which they lay -buried, the fall of the stable, and their own destruction, must have -infallibly been the consequence of it. - -"This day the sensation of hunger was more and more lively and -troublesome, without their having anything to allay it with but snow, -and the milk yielded them by one of the goats their fellow prisoners. I -say one of the goats for as yet they had milked but one of them, -thinking it would be useless, or rather hurtful, even if they could, to -take any milk from that in kid. Anne had recourse to the other, and in -the whole day, got from her about two pints of milk, on which, with the -addition of a little snow, they subsisted." - -The little boy, unable to struggle against the terrible conditions, grew -rapidly weaker and weaker, and the time had now come when he passed -painlessly away. - -"The death of this poor child proved the severest trial that the three -women, the two eldest especially, had to suffer during their long -confinement; and from this unfortunate day, the fear of death, which -they considered as at no great distance, began to haunt them more and -more. The little nourishment, which the goat yielded the poor women, had -made them suffer greatly on the preceding days; they were, besides, -benumbed, or rather frozen with the intense cold. Add to this the -necessary, but inconvenient and tormenting posture of their feet, knees, -and every other part of their bodies; the snow, which melting over their -heads, perpetually trickled down their backs, so that their clothes, and -their whole bodies were perfectly drenched with it: they were often on -the point of swooning away, and obliged to keep themselves from -fainting, by handling the snow, and putting some of it into their -mouths; the thirst with which their mouths were constantly burnt up; the -thoughts, that in all this time no one had been at the pains to look for -and relieve them; the consideration, that all they had hitherto -suffered, was nothing in comparison of what they had still to suffer -before they could recover their liberty, or sink under the weight of all -the evils which encompassed them; all these, certainly, were -circumstances sufficient to render them to the last degree, wretched and -miserable. Add to this, that the milk of their fond and loving nurse, -fell away little by little, till at length, instead of about two pints, -which she, in the beginning used to yield, they could not now get so -much as a pint from her. The hay that lay in the manger was all out, and -it was but little the poor women could draw out of the hole which lay -above them; so that as the goats had but little fodder, little -sustenance could be expected from that which they thought proper to -milk. These animals were become so tame and familiar, in consequence of -the fondness shewn them, that they always came on the first call to the -person that was to milk them, affectionately licking her face and hands. -Anne, encouraged by this tameness of theirs, bethought herself of -accustoming them to leap upon the manger, and from thence upon her -shoulders, so as to reach the hole of the hay-loft, and feed themselves; -so apt is hard necessity to inspire strength and ingenuity. She began by -the goat that yielded them milk, helping her up into the manger, and -then putting her upon her shoulders. This had the desired effect, the -animal being thereby enabled to reach much further with its head, than -they could with their hands. They did then the same by the other goat, -from whom, as soon as she should drop her kid, they expected new relief. -She, too, in the same manner, found means to get at the hay, which -afforded the poor women some relief in the midst of their pressing -necessity. After this day, the goats required no further assistance, -they so soon learned to leap of themselves on the manger, and from -thence on the women's shoulders. But we must not conclude that hunger -was the chief of the poor women's sufferings; far from it. After the -first days, during which it proved a sore torment to them, they through -necessity, grew so accustomed to very little and very light nourishment, -that they no longer felt any sensation of that kind, but lived -contentedly on the small quantity of milk they could get from their -goat, mixed with a little snow. Their breath was what gave them most -uneasiness; for it began to be very difficult on the fifth or sixth day, -every inspiration being attended with the sensation of a very heavy and -almost insupportable load upon them. - -"They now had lost all means of guessing at the returns of night and -day, and their only employment was to recommend themselves fervently to -God, beseeching him to take compassion of them, and at length, put an -end to their miseries, which increased from day to day. At last, their -nurse growing dry, they found themselves without any milk, and obliged -to live upon snow alone for two or three days, Mary Anne not approving -an expedient proposed by her sister. This was to endeavour to find the -carcasses of the hens; for as they had not heard them for some days -past, they had sufficient reason to think they were dead; and then eat -them, as the only thing with which they could prolong life. But Mary -Anne, rightly judging that it would be almost impossible to strip them -clean of their feathers, and that besides, the flesh might be so far -putrified, as to do them more harm than good, thought proper to dissuade -her sister from having recourse to this expedient. But the unspeakable -providence of God, whose will it was that they should live, provided -them with new means of subsistence, when least they expected it, by the -kidding of the other goat. By this event, they judged themselves to be -about the middle of April; wherefore, after offering God their most -humble thanks, for having preserved them so long, in the midst of so -many, and such great difficulties they again beseeched him to assist -them effectually, till they could find an opportunity of escaping their -doleful prison, and see an end to their great sufferings. Their hopes of -this their humble supplication being heard, were raised on the -appearance of this new supply, and on their reflecting that the snow -begins to thaw in April, in consequence of which that about the stable -would soon dissolve enough to let some ray of light break in upon them. -Mary Anne told me, that, though she was thoroughly sensible of the -badness of her condition, in which it was impossible for her to hold out -much longer, and saw it every day grow worse and worse; she never, -however, despaired of her living to be delivered. For my part, I cannot -sufficiently admire the courage and intrepidity of Anne, who told me, -that in all this time she never let a tear escape her but once. This was -on its occurring to her, that, as they must at length perish for want, -it might fall to her lot to die last. For the thought of finding herself -amidst the dead bodies of her sister and her niece, herself too in a -dying condition, terrified and afflicted her to such a degree, that she -could no longer command her tears, but wept bitterly. - -"I observed, that the goat had kidded. This event afforded the poor -women a new supply of milk, Anne for a while getting two porringers at a -time from her, with which they recruited themselves a little. But as the -goats began to fall short of hay, the milk of the only one that gave -them any, began to lessen in proportion, so that at length they saw -themselves reduced to a single, and even half a porringer. It was, -therefore, happy for them, that the time drew nigh, in which God had -purposed to rescue them from their horrible prison and confinement, and -put an end to their sufferings. One time they thought they could hear a -noise of some continuance at no great distance from them. This was -probably the 20th, when the parish priest's body was found. And, upon -it, they all together raised their weak and hoarse voices, crying out, -'Help, help!' but the noise ceased, and they this time neither saw nor -heard anything else that might serve as a token of their deliverance -being at hand. However, this noise alone was sufficient to make them -address God with greater fervour than ever, beseeching him to have -compassion on them, and to confirm them still more and more in their -warm hopes, that the end of their long misery was not far off. In fact, -they again heard another noise, and that nearer them, as though -something had fallen to the ground. On this they again raised their -voices, and again cried out, 'Help, help': but no one answered, and soon -after the noise itself entirely ceased. Their opinion concerning this -noise, and in this they certainly were not mistaken, was that it came -from the people, who were at work to find them, and who left off at the -approach of night, and went home with a design to return to their labour -the next morning. After the noise of the body fallen to the ground in -their neighbourhood, they seemed for the first time to perceive some -glimpse of light. The appearance of it scared Anne and Margaret to the -last degree, as they took it for a sure fore-runner of death, and -thought it was occasioned by the dead bodies; for it is a common opinion -with the peasants that those wandering wild-fires, which one frequently -sees in the open country, are a sure presage of death to the persons -constantly attended by them, which ever way they turn themselves; and -they accordingly call them death fires. But Mary Anne, was very far -from giving in to so silly a notion. On the contrary the light inspired -her with new courage, and she did all that lay in her power to dissipate -the fears of her sister and daughter, revive their hopes in God, and -persuade them that their deliverance and the end of all their sufferings -was at hand; insisting that this light could be no other than the light -of heaven, which had, at last, reached the stable, in consequence of the -valanca's melting, and still more in consequence of the constant boring -and digging into it by their relations, in order to come at their dead -bodies. Mary Anne guessed right for it was the next day that Anthony -descended into the ruins of the stable, and to his unspeakable surprise -found the poor women alive, blessing and exalting the most high, and -restored them from darkness to light, from danger to security, from -death to life, by drawing them out of the manger, and removing them to -the house of Joseph Arnaud, where they continued to the end of July. - -"Thirty-seven entire days did these poor women live in the most horrible -sufferings occasioned no less by filth and the disagreeable posture they -were confined to, than by cold and hunger; but the Lord was with them. -He kept them alive, and they are still living, in a new cottage built -the same year in the Foresta of Bergemoletto, at no great distance from -their former habitation." - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -AN EXCITING CAUCASIAN ASCENT - - -The following account of the ascent of Gestola, in the Central Caucasus, -is taken from _The Alpine Journal_, and the author, Mr C. T. Dent, has -most kindly revised it for this work, and has added a note as follows: - -"At the time (1886) when this expedition was made, the topography of the -district was very imperfectly understood. The mountain climbed was -originally described as Tetnuld Tau--Tau = Mountain. Since the -publication of the original paper a new survey of the whole district has -been carried out by the Russian Government and the nomenclature much -altered. The peak of Tetnuld is really to the south of Gestola. The -nomenclature has in the following extract been altered so as to -correspond with that at present in use and officially sanctioned." - -The party consisted of Mr Dent, the late Mr W. F. Donkin, and two Swiss -guides. They had safely accomplished the first part of their ascent of a -hitherto unclimbed peak, and were on the ridge and face to face with -the problem of how to reach the highest point. After describing the -glorious scenery which lay around them, Mr Dent writes: - -"Woven in between all these peaks lay a wilderness of crevassed slopes, -jagged rock ridges, and stretching glaciers, bewildering in their beauty -and complexity. To see the wondrous sights that were crowded into those -few minutes while we remained on the ridge, we would willingly have gone -five times further and fared ten times worse. In high spirits we turned -to the left (S.S.E.), and began our journey along the ridge which was to -lead us to Gestola, ever keeping an eye on the snowy form of Tetnuld, -and marvelling whether it would overtop our peak or not. For a few -steps, and for a few only, all went well. The snow was in good order on -the ridge, but we had to leave this almost immediately and make S.W. in -order to skirt the heights which still intervened between us and our -peak. The ice began to change its character. Two or three steps were cut -with a few strokes of the axe, and then all went well again for a time. -Then more steps, and a more ringing sound as the axe fell. We seemed, -too, however we might press on, to make no impression on this first -slope. Our doubt returned; the leader paused, drew up the rope, and bit -at a fragment of ice as he gazed anxiously upwards over the face. No! we -were on the right track, and must stick to it if we would succeed. For -an hour and a quarter we kept at it in silence, save for the constant -ringing blows of the axe. Our courage gradually oozed out, for when we -had worked back to the ridge again, we seemed to have made no progress -at all. The top of the mountain far above was already swathed in cloud, -and a distant storm on the south side was only too obvious. Another -little peak was won before we looked about again, but the summit seemed -no nearer. The exertion had begun to tell and the pace became slower. -Some one remarked that he felt hungry, and we all thereupon realised our -empty state, so we fortified ourselves for further efforts on a dainty -repast of steinbock, black bread a week old, and water--invigorating -victuals and exhilarating drink, rather appropriate to the treadmill -kind of exercise demanded. It is under conditions such as these that -strange diet tells on the climber; but even more trying and more -weakening than the poor quality of the food was the want of sleep from -which we had suffered for a good many nights. In the language of -science, our vital force and nervous energy were becoming rather rapidly -exhausted, or, to put it more colloquially and briefly, we were awfully -done. Three hours more at least was the estimate, and meanwhile the -weather was growing worse and worse. Reflecting that all points fall to -him who knows how to wait and stick to it, we pressed on harder to -escape from the dispiriting thoughts that suggested themselves, and -almost of a sudden recognised that the last of the deceptive little tops -had been left behind us, and that we were fighting our way up the final -peak. Better still, Tetnuld, which for so long had seemed to tower above -us, was fast sinking in importance, and there really seemed now, as we -measured the peak with the clinometer between the intervals of -step-cutting, to be little difference between the two points. The air -was so warm and oppressive that we were able to dispense with gloves. -One of the guides suffered from intense headache, but the rest of us, I -fancy, felt only in much the same condition as a man does at the finish -of a hard-run mile race. The clouds parted above us for a while, -mysteriously, as it seemed, for there was no wind to move them; but we -could only see the slope stretching upwards, and still upwards. Yet we -could not be far off now. Again we halted for a few seconds, and as we -glanced above, we mentally took stock of our strength, for there was no -question the pleasure had been laborious. Some one moved, and we were -all ready on the instant. To it once more, and to the very last victory -was doubtful. True, the summit had seemed close enough when the last -break in the swirling clouds had enabled us to catch a glimpse of what -still towered above; but our experience of Swiss snow mountains was -long enough to make us sceptical as to apparent tops, and possibly the -Caucasian giants were as prone to deceive as the human pigmies that -crawled and burrowed at their bases. - -"Still anxious, still questioning success, we stepped on, and the pace -increased as the doubt persisted. It is often said to be impossible, by -those who don't try, to explain why the second ascent of a mountain -always appears so much easier than the first; some explanation may be -found in the fact that on a virgin peak the uncertainty is really -increasing during the whole time, and the climax comes in the last few -seconds. Every step upwards make success more probable, and at the same -time, would make failure more disappointing. In fact, the only periods -when we are morally certain of success on a new expedition are before -the start and when victory is actually won. Still, we could hardly -believe that any insuperable obstacle would now turn us back; yet all -was new and uncertain, and the conditions of weather intensified the -anxiety. The heavy stillness of the air seemed unnatural, and made the -mind work quicker. The sensibility became so acute that if we ceased -working and moving for a moment the silence around was unendurable, and -seemed to seize hold of us. A distant roll of thunder came almost as a -relief. A step or two had to be cut, and the delay appeared -interminable. Suddenly, a glimpse of a dark patch of rocks appeared -above looming through the mist. The slope of the ridge became more -gentle for a few yards. Our attention was all fixed above, and we -ascended some distance without noticing the change. Another short rise, -and we were walking quickly along the ridge. We stopped suddenly; the -rocks we had seen so recently, had sunk below us on our left, while in -front the _arte_ could be followed with the eye, sloping away gradually -for a few yards, and then plunging sharply down to a great depth. It was -all over; through fair weather and through foul we had succeeded; and -there was yet another peak to the credit of the Alpine Club. - -[Illustration: A TYPICAL CAUCASIAN LANDSCAPE. - -_To face_ p. 105. - -By Signor Vittorio Sella.] - -"It was not a time for words. Burgener turned to us and touched the snow -with his hand, and we sat down in silence. Almost on the instant as we -took our places a great burst of thunder rolled and echoed around--a -grim salvo of Nature's artillery. The sudden sense of rest heightened -the effect of the oppressive stillness that followed. Never have I felt -the sense of isolation so complete. Gazing in front into the thin mists, -the very presence of my companions seemed an unreality. The veil of -wreathing vapour screened the huge panorama of the ice-world from our -sight. The black thunderclouds drifting sullenly shut out the world -below. No man knew where we were; we had reached our furthest point -in a strange land. We were alone with Nature, far from home, and far -from all that we were familiar with. Strange emotions thrilled the frame -and quickened the pulse. Weird thoughts crowded through the mind--it was -not a time for words. Believe me, under such conditions a man will see -further across the threshold of the unknown than all the book-reading or -psychological speculation in the world will ever reveal to him. - -"Coming back to considerations more prosaic and practical, we found that -it was 1.15 P.M. We realised, too, that the ascent had been very -laborious and exhausting, while there was no doubt that evil times were -in store for us. There were no rocks at hand to build a cairn, but we -reflected that the snow was soft, and that our footsteps would easily be -seen on the morrow. The aneroid marked the height we had attained as -16,550 feet.[4] A momentary break in the mist gave us a view of Dych -Tau, and we had just time to get a compass observation. After a stay of -fifteen minutes we rose and girded ourselves for the descent. I think we -all felt that the chief difficulty was yet to come, but we had little -idea of what was actually to follow. Directly after we had left the -summit a few puffs of wind began to play around and some light snow -fell. Still, it was not very cold, and if the storm would only keep its -distance all might be well. Down the first slope we made our way rapidly -enough, and could have gone faster had we not deemed it wise to husband -our strength as much as possible. In an hour and twenty minutes we -reached the place where we had left the provisions and the camera. The -feast was spread, but did not find favour. Never did food look so -revolting. The bread seemed to have turned absolutely black, while the -steinbock meat looked unfit to keep company with garbage in a gutter; so -we packed it up again at once, more from a desire to hide it from our -eyes than from any idea that it might look more appetising later on. -Andenmatten's headache had become much worse, and he could scarcely at -starting stand steady in his steps. Possibly his suffering was due to an -hour or two of intensely hot sun, which had struck straight down on us -during the ascent. I could not at the moment awaken much professional -interest in his case, but the symptoms, so far as I could judge, were -more like those experienced by people in diving-bells--were pressure -effects in short--for the pain was chiefly in the skull cavities. I may -not here enter into technical details, and can only remark now that -though Andenmatten suffered the most it by no means followed on that -account that his head was emptier than anybody else's. In due course we -came to the ice-slope up and across which we had cut our way so -laboriously in the morning; here, at least, we thought we should make -good progress with little trouble; but the sun had struck full on this -part of the mountain, and all the steps were flattened out and useless. -Every single step ought to have been worked at with as much labour as in -the morning, but it was impossible to do more than just scratch out a -slight foothold, as we made our way round again to the ridge. Below, on -the west side, the slope plunged down into the Ewigkeit, and our very -best attention had to be given in order to avoid doing the same. It was -one of the worst snow faces I ever found myself on, perhaps, under the -conditions, the worst. The direction in which we were travelling and the -angle of the slope made the rope utterly useless. Close attention is -very exhausting: much more exertion is required to walk ten steps, -bestowing the utmost possible care on each movement, than to walk a -hundred up or down a much steeper incline when the angle demands a more -accustomed balance. Not for an instant might we relax our vigilance -till, at 5.30 P.M., we reached once more the ridge close to the place -where we had forced our way through the cornice in the morning. - -"We had little time to spare, and hurrying up to the point, looked -anxiously down the snow wall. A glance was sufficient to show that the -whole aspect of the snow had entirely altered since the morning. -Burgener's expression changed suddenly, and a startled exclamation, -which I trust was allowed to pass unrecorded, escaped from him. -Andenmatten brought up some stones and rolled them down over the edge; -each missile carried down a broad hissing band of the encrusting snow -which had given us foot-hold in the morning, and swept the ice-slope -beneath as black and bare as a frozen pond; here and there near rocks -the stones stopped and sank deeply and gently into the soft, treacherous -compound. The light had begun to fail, and snow was falling more heavily -as we pressed on to try for some other line of descent. A hundred yards -further along the ridge we looked over again; the condition of the snow -was almost the same, but the wall was steeper, and looked at its very -worst as seen through the mist. Some one now suggested that we might -work to the north-west end of the ridge and make our way down to the -pass by the ice-fall. We tramped on as hard as possible, only to find at -the end of our journey that the whole mass seemed abruptly cut away far -above the Adine Col, and no line of descent whatever was visible. We -doubled back on our tracks till we came within a few yards of the summit -of a small peak on the ridge, the height of which was probably not less -than 15,000 feet. Already the cold was numbing and our wet clothes began -to stiffen; again we peered over the wall, but the rocks were glazed, -snow-covered, and impossible. The leader stopped, looked right and left -along the ridge, and said, 'I don't know what to do!' For the moment we -seemed hopelessly entrapped; the only conceivable place of shelter for -the night was a patch of rocks close to the summit of the peak near at -hand, and for these we made. It was an utter waste of time. Apart from -sleeping, we could not have remained there an hour, for we met the full -force of the wind, which by this time had risen considerably, and was -whirling the driving snow into every crack and cranny. What might have -begun as a temporary rest would infallibly have ended in a permanent -occupation. Indeed, the cold would have been far too intense that night -for us to have lived on any part of the bleak ridge. The situation was -becoming desperate. 'We must get down off the ridge and out of the -wind.' 'Ay,' said Burgener, 'we must, I know; but where?' The -circumstances did not call for reasonable answers, and so we said, -'Anywhere! To stay up here now means that we shall never get down at -all.' Burgener looked up quickly as if to say no, but hesitated, and -then muttered, 'That is true. Then what will you do? There is no way -down anywhere along the wall with the snow as it is now. There are great -ice-slopes a little way down.' As he spoke he leant over and looked -along the wall for confirmation of his opinions. A little way off a rib -of rock, blacker than the rest, showed through the mist. We both saw it -at the same time; Burgener hesitated, looked at it again, and then -facing round glanced at the prospect above. The wind was stronger and -colder and the snow was driving more heavily. There was no room for -doubt. We must put it to the touch and take the risk. We turned again, -and in a few minutes had squeezed ourselves through the cornice, and -were fairly launched on the descent. - -"We were now at a much higher level on the ridge than at the point we -had struck in ascending. It was only possible to see a few yards down; -the rocks looked appallingly steep, glazed, and grizzly, and we knew not -what we were coming to. But at any rate we were moving, and in a stiller -atmosphere soon forgot the cold. We went fast, but only by means of -doing all we knew, for the climbing was really difficult. It was a case -of every man for himself, and every man for the rest of the party. Now -was the time to utilise all that we had ever learned of mountain craft. -Never before, speaking for myself only, have I felt so keenly the -pleasure of being united to thoroughly trustworthy and good -mountaineers; it was like the rush of an eight-oar, where the sense of -motion and the swish through the water alone are sufficient to make -every member of the crew put all his strength into each stroke. The mind -was too active to appreciate the pain of fatigue, and so we seemed -strong again. Now on the rocks, which were loose and crumbly in parts, -elsewhere big and glazed, now in deep snow, now on hard crusts, we -fought our way down. So rapid was the descent that, when the opportunity -offered, we looked anxiously through the mist in the hope of seeing the -glacier beneath. Surely we had hit on a possible line of descent to the -very bottom. But there was not a moment for the grateful repose so often -engendered by enquiring minds on the mountains. We were racing against -time, or at least against the malevolent powers of darkness. Down a -narrow flat couloir of rock of no slight difficulty we seemed to go with -perfect ease, but the rocks suddenly ceased and gave way to an -ill-favoured snow-slope. The leader stopped abruptly and turned sharp to -the right. A smooth ice-gully some 30 feet wide separated us from the -next ridge of rock. The reason for the change of direction was evident -enough when Burgener pointed it out. As long as the line of descent kept -to the side that was more sheltered during the day from the sun, so -long was the snow fairly good. Our leader judged quickly, and with the -soundest reasoning, as it proved directly afterwards, that the line we -had been following would infallibly lead, if pursued further, to snow as -treacherous as that with which we were now so familiar. Across the -ice-slope then we must cut, perhaps a dozen or fifteen steps. - -"The first two or three Burgener made vigorously enough, but when within -10 or 15 feet of the rocks the extra effort told. He faltered suddenly; -his blow fell listlessly, and he leant against the slope, resting hands -and head on his axe. 'I am almost exhausted,' he said faintly, as he -turned round to us, while his quivering hands and white lips bore -evidence to the severity of the exertion. So for a minute or two we -stood in our tracks. A word of encouragement called up what seemed -almost a last effort, some little notches were cut, and we gained the -rocks again. A trickling stream of water was coursing down a slab of -rock, and at this we gulped as eagerly as a fevered patient. Standing on -the projecting buttress, we looked anxiously down, and caught sight at -last of the glacier. It seemed close to us; the first few steps showed -that Burgener's judgment was right; he had changed the line of descent -at exactly the right moment, and at the best possible place. Down the -last few hundred feet we were able to go as fast as before. The level -glacier beneath seemed in the darkness to rise up suddenly and meet us. -We tumbled over the _bergschrund_, ran down a short slope on the farther -side of it, and stood in safety on the glacier, saved by as fine a piece -of guiding as I have ever seen in the mountains. We looked up at the -slope. To our astonishment all was clear, and I daresay had been so for -long. Above, in a blue-black frosty sky, the stars were winking merrily; -the mists had all vanished as by magic. No doubt the cold, which would -have settled us had we stayed on the ridge, assisted us materially in -the descent by improving the snow. - -"There seemed still just light enough to search for our tracks of the -morning across the glacier, and we bore well to the right in the hope of -crossing them. I fancy that the marks would have been really of little -use, but, anyhow, we could not find them, and so made a wide sweep -across the upper part of the snow basin. As a result we were soon in -difficulty with the crevasses, and often enough it seemed probable that -we should spend the rest of the night in wandering up and down searching -for snow bridges. But we reached at last a patch of shale and rock, -which we took to be the right bank of the little glacier we had crossed -in the morning. Our clothes were wet, and the cold was becoming so sharp -that it was wisely decided, against my advice, to push on if possible -to the tent at once. For some three or four hours did we blunder and -stumble over the moraine, experiencing not a few tolerably severe falls -as we did so. Andenmatten selected his own line of descent, and in a few -minutes we had entirely lost sight of him. It was too dark to find our -way across the glacier, and we could only hope by following the loose -stone ridge to make our way to the right place. So we stuck to the -rocks, occasionally falling and nearly sticking on their detestably -sharp points. Even a Caucasian moraine leads somewhere if you keep to it -long enough, and as we turned a corner, the huge glimmering mass of Dych -Tau, towering up in front, showed that the end of our journey was not -far off. Presently the little white outline of the tent appeared, but we -regarded it with apathy, and made no effort to quicken our movements, -although the goal was in sight; it seemed to require, in our -semi-comatose condition, almost an effort to stop. As we threw open the -door of the tent the welcome sight of divers packets, neatly arranged in -a corner, met our gaze. The head policeman had proved himself an honour -to his sex, an exception to his compatriots, and a credit to the force. -There were bread, sugar, rice, meat, and firewood--yet we neither spoke -nor were moved. Andenmatten spurned the parcels with his foot and -revealed the lowermost. A scream of delight went up, for they had found -a packet of tobacco. The spell was broken, and once more all were -radiant. Such is man. A strange compound--I refer to the tobacco--it -proved to be, that would neither light nor smoke, and possessed as its -sole property the power of violently disagreeing with the men. It was -past midnight before the expedition was over. There were few -preliminaries observed before going to bed. I don't think that even -Donkin took more than a quarter of an hour in arranging a couch to his -satisfaction, and placing a very diminutive air-cushion on anatomical -principles in exactly the right place, while Andenmatten was fast asleep -in two minutes, his head pillowed gently on some cold mutton, and his -boots reposing under the small of his back. Something weighed on our -minds as we too lay down and tried to sleep. The towering cone of -Tetnuld, the distant view of Uschba, Elbruz, and the giant Dych Tau, the -rock and snow-slopes, pictured themselves one after another as -dissolving views on the white walls of the tent. The expedition was -over, but the pleasure and the impressions it had evoked were not. -Faster and faster followed the visions as in delirium. I sat up, and in -the excitement of the moment dealt a great blow at the nearest object, -which, as it chanced, was Andenmatten's ribs. I shouted out to my -companion. A muffled 'hulloa' was the response, and he too rose up. -'What is it?' 'By Heavens! it is the finest climb we have ever made.' -And so it was." - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -A MELANCHOLY QUEST - - -The accident in the Caucasus in 1888, by which Messrs Donkin and Fox and -their two Swiss guides lost their lives, was one of the saddest that has -ever happened in the annals of mountaineering. I will not dwell on it, -but will rather pass on to the search expedition, a short account of -whose operations will serve to illustrate how a thorough knowledge of -mountaineering may be utilised in finding a conjectured spot in an -unmapped region in the snow world. - -The year after the accident--for the season when it occurred was too -advanced for a thorough search to be then undertaken--a party of four -Englishmen, Messrs Douglas Freshfield, Clinton Dent, Hermann Woolley, -and Captain Powell, with Maurer of the Bernese Oberland as leading -guide, set out from England to try and ascertain how the accident -happened, and, if possible, recover the remains. They succeeded, in the -course of a profoundly interesting journey, in finding the last camp of -their friends, and from Mr Clinton Dent's fine description in _The -Alpine Journal_ I make, with his kind consent, the following extracts. -They show how well the old school of climbers learnt all the routine of -their art, and how superior is the trained mountaineer of any -nationality to the inexperienced dweller amongst mountains, who is -utterly unable to advance a single step upon them. - -Having journeyed to the district and got over all the easier ground at -first met with, the party was now fairly embarked in the region of ice -and snow. - -"The day was well advanced," writes Mr Dent, "and it is only on rare -occasions in the Central Caucasus that the valleys and sky are free from -cloud at such an hour. But not a vestige of mist was to be seen. The -conditions were not merely of good omen, but were also in the hightest -degree fortunate, for the object of our search seemed very minute in the -presence of such gigantic surroundings. The air was clear and soft, and -the snow in perfect order for walking. We worked our way due west, and -gradually, as we turned the buttress of rock, a steep and broad -ice-gully came into view, leading up to the pass. This consisted of a -broad snow-topped depression, from 1500 to 1800 feet above the -snow-field. On the right or east of the pass the ridge ran sharply up to -the pinnacle already mentioned, while on the left the ridge, broken up -on its crest by great towers of rock, stretched away to the summit of -Dych Tau, the peak of which from our point of view was not visible. A -careful inspection of the rocks with the telescope revealed nothing. A -possible place for a bivouac might have been found at any point on the -rocks below the pass, but no particularly likely spot was evident. It -was conceivable too, of course, that the travellers had discovered a -more suitable place on the Ullu Auz side, close to the summit of the -pass. In any case our plan of action was clear, and we set forth without -delay to ascend the wall. Two long ribs of rock lying on the right of -the ice-gully offered the best means of access. Both looked feasible, -but it was only after a moment's hesitation that the left-hand one was -selected, as it seemed more broken, was broader, and ran up higher. If -the right-hand rib had been chosen, we might conceivably have missed the -object of our search altogether. We made our way up the rocks without -any great difficulty. Half-melted masses of snow constantly hissed down -the ice-gully as we ascended, and the great chasm that extends along the -base of the cliff was choked for the most part with avalanche snow. The -rocks were steep, but so broken as to offer good hand-and foot-hold. -Still, the mind was sufficiently occupied in attending to the details of -climbing to prevent the thoughts from wandering. Insensibly, we began -to think little save of the view that would be revealed from the top of -the pass. From time to time an opportunity would be found of gazing to -the right or left, but progress was tolerably continuous. Maurer, who -was leading, looked upwards now and again, as he worked out the best -line of ascent, but the rocks were so steep that he could only see a -very few feet. Just about mid-day, as he stopped for a moment to look -upwards, I saw his expression suddenly change. 'Herr Gott!' he gasped -out, 'der Schlafplatz!'[5] I think I shall never forget the thrill the -words sent through me. We sprang up, scrambling over the few feet that -still intervened, and in a moment were grouped on a little ledge just -outside the bivouac. There was little enough to be seen at the first -glance save a low horse-shoe shaped wall of stones, measuring some 6 -feet by 8, and carefully built against an overhanging rock. The -enclosure was full of drifted snow, raised up into a hump at the back, -where it covered a large rcksack. On a ledge formed by one of the -stones, a little tin snow spectacle-box caught the eye as it reflected -the rays of the sun. For a few moments all was excitement as the -presence of one object after another was revealed. 'See here,' cried -Maurer, as he scooped away the snow with his hands, 'the sleeping-bags!' -'And here a rcksack,' said another. 'Look, they made a fire there,' -called out a third, 'and here is the cooking kettle and the revolver.' -Then came somewhat of a reaction, and for a few minutes we could but -gaze silently at the place that told so clear a tale, and endeavour to -realise to the full the evidence that had come upon us with such -overwhelming suddenness. - - * * * * * - -"It is most probable that the accident occurred on the south side of the -cliffs forming the eastern ridge of Dych Tau. The party must have been -roped at the moment, and it is very reasonable to suppose that they were -engaged in traversing one of the many ice and snow covered slopes that -exist on this side. What the exact nature of the accident was matters -little; but it may be remembered that the snow on such slopes and ledges -often binds very lightly, and that there are no mountains, perhaps, -where these places are more numerous or more treacherous than in the -Caucasus. It was possibly one of those rare instances in which the rope -was a source of danger and not of security to the party as a whole. Yet -the rule is clear, and it amounts to this: if a place is too dangerous -to cross with a party roped, lest the slip of one drag down all, then it -is too dangerous to cross at all. So steep are the cliffs that a fall -must have meant instantaneous death. As an example, a torn sleeping-bag -which was thrown over the bivouac wall fell to the very bottom of the -slope, and we saw it just above the _bergschrund_ as we descended. It -was necessary to take down some of the articles discovered, for we might -otherwise have found difficulty in convincing the natives of the success -of the expedition, and this was an important point. The height of the -pass is 14,350 feet, and of the bivouac about 14,000 feet. We left the -bivouac at 3.30 P.M., the day being still perfectly cloudless. The -ice-fall offered some little difficulty, one or two of the bridges by -which we had crossed in the morning having broken down. Still we were -able to keep to almost the same line as that adopted in ascending. - - * * * * * - -"No one familiar with the Caucasus would be willing to believe that any -native could have reached the bivouac. The people are still very -timorous on ice, and are wholly incapable of facing an ice-fall, much -less of making any way through one. No native could have been got to the -place even if in the train of competent mountaineers; alone, he would -not have set foot on the glacier at all. - -"A day or two later we made our way down to the collection of villages -known as Balkar, a good three and a half hours' walk from Karaoul. The -place is not well spoken of, but we were hospitably received and -entertained. In this, as in many other villages subsequently, the story -of our search excited much interest. On every occasion the proceedings -were almost exactly identical. As usual in the Caucasus, the natives all -crowded into our apartment soon after arrival. Powell would then select -some Russian-speaking man in authority, and announce through him that -the results of our expedition would be made known to all who cared to -hear them. The whole story was then told, and admirably Powell used to -narrate it, winding up by pointing out how the people of the district -were now exonerated from any suspicion that may have lain on them. Such -suspicion, he used to add, had never been entertained by any English -people. The account was always listened to in breathless silence. At the -conclusion it was repeated by the chief to the natives in their own -language. Then the rcksack was brought in and the articles found shown. -These were always instantly accepted as absolute proof; the rusty -revolver especially excited attention. Expressions of sorrow and brief -interjections were always heard on all sides. Then the chief spoke to -some such effect as follows: 'We are indeed rejoiced that you have found -these traces. It relieves our people from an irksome and unjust -suspicion. It is well that Englishmen came to our country for this -search, for we believe that no others could have accomplished what you -have done. We are all very grateful to you. Englishmen are always most -welcome in our country. We are glad to receive them. Our houses are -theirs, and the best we can do shall always be done for your -countrymen.' In several places--at Chegem, for instance--words were -added to this effect: 'We remember well Donkin and Fox; they were brave -and good men, and we loved them. It is very sad to us to think that they -are lost.'" - -A more detailed account of this melancholy quest will be found in Messrs -Douglas Freshfield's and Vittorio Sella's work, _The Exploration of the -Caucasus_. It is from this, the most beautifully illustrated of any book -on mountaineering, that, with Mr Freshfield's kind permission and that -of Mr Willink, I take the picture of the sleeping-place. The finished -drawing was made by Mr Willink from a sketch by Captain Powell. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND FATAL ACCIDENTS - - -Probably not half the narrow escapes experienced by climbers are ever -described, even in the pages of the various publications of English and -foreign Alpine Clubs, though when an accident by the breaking of a -snow-cornice is just avoided, the incident is so terribly impressive -that several accounts have found their way into print. Scarcely anything -more startling than a certain occurrence on a ridge of the Mnch, which -happened to the late Mr Moore and his two guides, Melchior and Jacob -Anderegg, has ever been related. The party had succeeded in making the -ascent of the Mnch from the Wengern Alp, it being only the third -occasion when this long and difficult climb was accomplished, each of -their predecessors spending _three days and three nights_ on the -expedition. - -[Illustration: MELCHIOR ANDEREGG, OF MEIRINGEN.] - -[Illustration: A SON AND A GRANDCHILD OF MELCHIOR ANDEREGG, 1903. - -_To face_ p. 124.] - -Having gained the summit, the party proceeded to go down by the usual -route towards the Trugberg. This follows a very narrow _arte_. "On the -left hand," says Mr Moore in _The Alpine Journal_, "is an absolute -precipice; on the right a slope, which might be called precipitous, -falls to the Aletsch Glacier. The quantity of snow on the ridge was -enormous, and the sun had begun to tell upon it. We knew too much to -attempt to approach the upper edge, and kept at a distance of some 12 -feet below it on the Aletsch side; lower down we dared not go, owing to -the steepness of the slope and the danger of starting an avalanche. With -Melchior in front it is unnecessary to say that we moved with the -greatest caution. No man is more alive than he to the danger arising -from a snow-cornice. He sounded with his axe at every step, and we went -steadily along, anxious, but with every reason to believe that we were -giving the cornice a wide berth. Suddenly came a startling cry from -Melchior. At the same instant I felt myself stagger, and, instinctively -swinging ever so slightly to the right, found myself the next moment -sitting astride on the ridge. With a thundering roar the cornice on our -left for a distance of some 200 yards went crashing down to the depths -below, sending up clouds of snow-dust which completely concealed my -companions from me. It was only by the absence of all strain on the rope -that I knew--though at the moment I scarcely realised the fact--that -they were, like myself, safe. As the dust cleared off, Melchior, also -sitting astride of the ridge, turned towards me, his face white as the -snow which covered us. That it was no personal fear which had blanched -our leader's sunburnt cheeks his first words, when he could find -utterance, showed. 'God be thanked!' said he; 'I never thought to see -either of you there.' We had, in fact, escaped destruction by a -hand's-breadth. As I believe, our right feet had been on the ridge, our -left on the cornice; we had thus just sufficient firm standing-ground to -enable us to make that instinctive movement to the right which had -landed us _ cheval_, for Jacob had fallen in the same position as -Melchior and myself. Few words were said; but words poorly express the -emotions at such a moment. Melchior's axe had been carried down with the -cornice as it fell, but had fortunately lodged on the face of the -precipice 50 feet below. It was too precious to leave behind, so we let -him down by the rope, and descending in a cat-like way peculiar to -first-class guides when not hampered by _Herrshaft_, he regained it -without difficulty. - -"Our further descent was uneventful." - -One of the greatest dangers of mountaineering is from falling stones, -yet the number of fatal accidents from this cause is as few as the -narrow escapes are many. As exciting an experience as can well be -imagined took place on the Aiguille du Midi at Chamonix in 1871. The -party consisted of Messrs Horace Walker and G. E. Foster. The latter -wrote a graphic account in _The Alpine Journal_, and kindly allows me -to make the following extracts. The guides were Jacob Anderegg and Hans -Baumann, and the climbers wished to ascend from the Montanvert and be -the first to go down the steep face of the mountain on the Chamonix -side. - -After some difficulty in finding the route, for both the guides were -unacquainted with the district, and Mr Walker alone knew in a vague sort -of way that the peak was somewhere in the neighbourhood of the Gant -ice-fall, they eventually stood on the top. It had taken them ten hours, -and they sat for some time on the more sheltered Chamonix side, debating -by what route they should descend. The slopes below were very steep, so -they decided to retrace their steps to the foot of the rocks, and then, -turning over on to the Chamonix side of the mountain, make their way as -best they could down ice-filled gullies and precipitous rocks. All at -first went well, and soon they commenced to cross the face of the cliff -to gain a rocky buttress that offered a likely route some hundred feet -below the top of the wall. "Jacob was leading," writes Mr Foster, -"Walker next, I followed, and Baumann brought up the rear. Only one was -moving at a time, and every one had the rope as taut as possible between -himself and his neighbour. Jacob was crossing a narrow gully, when -suddenly, without any warning, as though he had trod on the keystone of -the wall, the whole face for some 30 or 40 feet above him peeled off, -and with a crash like thunder, hundreds of tons of rocks precipitated -themselves on him. In an instant he was torn from his hold, and hurled -down the precipice with them. Fortunately, Walker was able to hold on, -though the strain on him was something awful. As the uproar ceased, and -silence even more impressive succeeded, we looked in one another's faces -with blank dismay. From our position it was impossible to see what had -become of Jacob, and only the tight rope told us that his body at least, -living or dead, was still fastened to us. In a voice singularly unlike -his own, Walker at length cried out, 'Jacob,' and our hearts sank within -us as it passed without response. 'Jacob! Ach Jacob!' Walker repeated; -and I trust none of my readers may ever know the relief we felt when the -reply came back, 'Ich lebe noch.'[6] - -"From where I was I could not see him, but Walker craned over a rock, -and then turned round. 'I see him. He is awfully hurt, and bleeding -frightfully.' I then contrived to shift my position, and saw that he was -indeed hurt. His face was black with blood and dirt, the skin torn from -his bleeding hands, while his clothes in ribands threatened worse -injuries still unseen. After a moment, he managed to recover his -footing, and then untied the rope with trembling fingers, and crawled -along the face of the cliff to the other side of the gully, where some -snow offered means to stanch his wounds. - -"As soon as he was safe, Baumann called on us to stand still, and -clambered carefully over the spot where the rocks had given way, our -only road lying there. I followed, and then Walker, knotting up the rope -to which Jacob had hung, crossed last. With Jacob below us, care was -necessary in climbing so as to send no more loose fragments on his head, -but we at last reached the spot where he was standing. Thanks to the -snow, the bleeding had already stopped to a great extent, and with the -aid of some sticking-plaster Walker had with him, and some torn strips -from a pocket-handkerchief, we bound up his wounds as well as we could. -He had had a marvellous escape; no fragment had struck him fully, the -rock that had grazed his face having missed knocking out his brains from -his presence of mind in throwing back his head. Fortunately, no bones -were broken, though he was badly bruised all over, and after a quarter -of an hour's rest and a good pull at the brandy-flask, he said he was -ready to start again. - -"On taking hold of the rope to tie him on again, we were awestruck to -find all its strands but one had been severed, so that his whole weight -had hung literally on a thread. Strange as it may appear, the rock that -had done this had probably saved his life by jerking him out of the line -of fire. Still, all honour to Messrs Buckingham for their good -workmanship, to which, and Walker's holding powers, we owe our escape -from a miserable ending of our day's work. As it was, poor Walker's ribs -had suffered sadly, and with two wounded men we recommenced our descent. - -"Naturally, our trust in the rocks was gone, and we took as soon as -possible to the steep snow of the couloir. This, however, lay so thin on -the ice, that we found we had only exchanged one danger for another. -Baumann led and we followed, driving in our axe-heads at every step, but -were soon forced to descend into a narrow gully, cut by avalanches, -where the snow was deep enough to give better footing. The sides of this -were above our heads, and the bottom not more than a foot wide, so that -the danger from avalanches was very great, but for a time we descended -safely. Then a startled shout from Walker warned me that something was -wrong, and driving my axe desperately into the side, I found myself up -to the neck in a snow avalanche. For a moment I thought all was up, but -held on to the best of my powers. Then finding the stream did not stop, -I looked back, and found Walker and Jacob had contrived to get out of -the gully. With a shout to Baumann, I gave a desperate struggle, and -followed their example, and instantly saw the snow I had held up surge -over Baumann's head. For a moment he held on, then climbed out on my -side. We waited till the avalanche had passed, two of us on one side of -the gully and two on the other, and then Walker and Jacob jumped into it -with a groan, as it shook their bruised bones, and climbed up to our -side, and with an occasional look for Baumann's hat, which the avalanche -had carried off with it, pursued our way. - -"So long and steep was the couloir, so thin and treacherous the snow -layer on the ice, that a good hour elapsed before we reached the bottom, -where a formidable _bergschrund_ cut off access to the glacier. Only at -one point could we find a bridge, and that was where our old enemy, the -avalanche gully, terminated, choking the crevasse with its snows, and -spreading in a fan-like mass below. With some hesitation, as our -recollection of it was not pleasant, and it was here all hard ice, -Baumann cut his way down into it. We were scarcely all fairly in it, -when we heard a tremendous crash above. Clearly, another avalanche was -descending, this time composed of rocks. As it was 2000 feet above us, -and would take some time to clear the distance, a short race for life -ensued. Baumann cut steps with amazing rapidity. Fortunately, some half -dozen only were necessary. With one eye on him and one keeping a sharp -look-out for the advent of the unwelcome stranger, we hastened down, -crossed the bridge, scampered down a slope, and merely stooping down to -pick up Baumann's hat, which turned up here, got out of the way just in -time, as an enormous mass of snow and rocks dashed over where we had -stood not a minute before." - -This was the last adventure the party had that day from avalanches, but -their troubles were as yet by no means over. Some formidable glacier -work had to be accomplished before all was plain sailing. "Though we -were now tolerably reckless, the difficulties in our way nearly beat -us," Mr Foster goes on to say. "Three times we tried, and thrice in -vain, though knife edges of the most revolting description were passed, -and crevasses of fabulous width and depth jumped or got over as seemed -best. Again and again we were forced to return. At length, when we were -almost in despair, a way was found, and at 6.30, drenched by the storm -which by this time had burst upon us, we reached the little hotel at the -Pierrepointue." - -There are no climbing dangers which skill and care can more surely avert -than those which are ever present on a crevassed, but snow-covered -glacier. - -[Illustration: CREVASSES AND SRACS ON THE LOWER PART OF A GLACIER.] - -[Illustration: A SNOW BRIDGE OVER A CREVASSE.] - -[Illustration: ON THE BORDER OF A CREVASSE ABOVE THE SNOW LINE.] - -[Illustration: SOFT SNOW IN THE AFTERNOON ON A GLACIER. - -By Signor R. Cajrati Crivelli Mesmer. - -_To face_ p. 133.] - -Should a party fail to arrest the fall of one of its members, and have -difficulty in pulling him above ground, however, the position may -become most serious. If another party is within hail, matters are -generally simple enough, yet even for four or five people it is not -always the easiest thing in the world to haul up a companion who has -disappeared into the bowels of the earth, especially if the folly of -walking unroped has been indulged in. - -A good description of what might have been a serious business but for -the skill and resource of a member of the party is given in the course -of a description of some climbs in the Rocky Mountains. The writer, Mr -Harold B. Dixon, says in _The Alpine Journal_: "A snow-covered crevasse -crossed our route at right angles. The party in front, who were without -ropes, saw the crevasse, and proceeded to leap it. All crossed in safety -but the last man, who broke through the snow and disappeared. Through -the hole the wide mouth of the crevasse was revealed, showing the danger -of trusting to the frail bridge. It was obviously dangerous to recross -without a rope, so his companions signalled to us for help, but for some -time we failed to observe their signals. - -"Though stunned by the fall our friend was not materially damaged, but -he was in a sufficiently awkward fix. Jammed between the narrowing walls -of ice, he was unable to move a limb except his right arm. The crevasse -did not drop perpendicularly, but the ice-wall bulged out from the side -we stood on, and then curved over out of sight; we could not see down -more than 18 feet. We stood in a little semicircle at the hole, and one -short sentence was spoken: 'Some one must go down.' We looked at each -other. Sahrbach and Baker are large and heavy men: it was obvious they -must 'pass.' I am of lighter build; I proclaimed my 11 stone and -readiness to go. But Collie went better. 'I am 9 stone 6,' was his -deliberate statement. There was no means of seeing if this was a bluff, -so we threw up our hands--the trick was his. Tying a stirrup loop for -one foot and a noose round his waist, Collie attached himself to one -rope, which was then joined to a second. Meanwhile the Americans were -brought across the crevasse by the aid of another rope, and axes were -fixed deep in the snow in suitable positions to fasten the rope to. Then -we let Collie down as far as he would go. An anxious moment followed. 'I -can't reach him,' came Collie's voice from below. Then, after a few -minutes, 'Send down a slip knot on the other rope.' We made the knot and -lowered the rope. How Collie managed it I don't know, for he could not -reach his man, but he threw the loop round the prisoner's right arm, and -then called on us to pull. At the second haul we felt something give, -and our friend was pulled into an upright position, when Collie could -just reach him with his left hand, and with this he tied a knot above -the elbow of his right arm. By this knot we hauled him out of the narrow -crevasse and on to the bulge of ice without difficulty. But as we pulled -the rope cut into the snow, and we could not raise our burden within 6 -feet of the surface. Then, while the rope was held taut, one of us -worked the handle of an axe along under the rope by sitting on the snow -and pushing it forward with his feet. In this way the rope was loosened, -and we could haul up another 3 feet, and then Sahrbach, leaning over, -reached his collar, and our half-frozen friend was deposited on the snow -with an assortment of flasks, while we fished out Collie from his -uncomfortable position. They were both very wet and cold, but no bones -were broken." - -Here we see that even with a large party of competent people, it was no -easy matter to rescue a comrade from his icy prison. The details are -well given, and may be useful to any one so unfortunate as to require by -personal experience a knowledge of what should be done under similar -circumstances. - -The danger of crossing snow-covered glaciers when the party does not -number more than two was brought home to those who heard of it by one of -the most tragical events which has ever been recorded in the annals of -mountaineering. A German, Dr Schffer, had been celebrating his golden -wedding at a small place on the Brenner on 22nd August 1900. He engaged -a guide, by name Johann Offerer, and, sleeping at a hut, started early -next morning. They reached the Wildlahner Glacier in an hour and a half -from their sleeping quarters, and after traversing it for some distance -came to a large crevasse. This the guide crossed safely on a snow -bridge, but the tourist, a much heavier man, broke through, and pulled -his companion down with him. They fell about 100 feet, with the result -that the guide had a broken thigh and arm, while Dr Schffer only -bruised his knee. He put his coat round Offerer and left food beside -him, and then tried to get out of the crevasse. After hours of toil and -pain he managed to reach a ledge not very far below the mouth of the -crevasse, but further he could not get. At last he gave up all hope, and -sat down to die, first, however, writing a full account of the accident, -and leaving a sum of money for the widow of his guide. It is to this -pathetic last effort of his life that we owe our knowledge of what -happened. The only other instance at all like it is the terrible -accident on Mont Blanc in 1870, when eleven persons perished in a -snow-storm, one of their number, Mr Bean, leaving details in his diary -of the events immediately preceding the catastrophe. - -[Illustration: THE BETMPS HUT.] - -[Illustration: SKI-ING.] - -[Illustration: HOW A BEGINNER USUALLY ENDS A RUN.] - -[Illustration: A GREAT CREVASSE IN THE UPPER SNOW FIELDS. - -_To face_ p. 137.] - -It was only on 5th September, after a long search, that the remains of -the two unfortunate men were discovered. - -The following is of special interest, because, of late years, the -Norwegian sport of ski-ing has become exceedingly popular in Alpine -winter resorts. It is impossible, however, owing to the great length of -the ski, to go in difficult places on them, and therefore mountaineers -have only used them when intending to ascend to points accessible -entirely over snow-slopes, not much broken up by crevasses. The first -fatal accident to a climbing party on ski took place in 1902, and may -serve as a warning to those intending to traverse glaciers in winter on -skis, or indeed even without them. I take my account from a translation -from the Italian, which appeared in _The Alpine Journal_. The comments -by the editor should be laid to heart. - -"A party of five gentlemen and four Zermatt guides left Zermatt on 24th -February for the Btemp Hut, with the intention of ascending the -Signalkuppe and the Zumstein, _via_ the Grenz Glacier and the Capanna -Margherita. - -"The 25th was spent in ski practice in the neighbourhood of the hut. On -the 26th the whole party, with the exception of one guide who had -brought a defective pair of skis, left the hut at 3.30 A.M. in weather -marked by no adverse conditions of any kind. The Grenz Glacier was -reached somewhat west of the point marked 3344 mtres on the Siegfried -map. The party unroped, proceeded upwards on their skis towards the -point marked 3496 mtres, the surface of the glacier, covered with deep -snow, showing no crevasses nor the indications of any. About midway -between 3300 mtres and the point 3344 mtres the caravan found itself -on a gentle slope, when a muffled crack was heard, and Herr Koenig, Herr -Flender, and one of the guides, Hermann Perren, were seen to sink almost -simultaneously into a concealed crevasse about 6 feet in width, which -ran in a direction parallel with the glacier, carrying with them a mass -of snow about 65 feet in length and over 14 feet in thickness. -Obviously, no amount of probing would have indicated the presence of the -crevasse, and thus by an unfortunate coincidence the three men were -standing at the same time over the hidden abyss without knowing it. One -of the other guides was instantly lowered into the crevasse by the only -available rope (the other being on Herr Flender's back), which proved to -be just too short to reach Hermann Perren, who had fallen about 90 feet, -and was standing upright against the side of the crevasse, held fast in -a mass of snow which had left his head and one arm free. Two of the -party hurried down to fetch another rope from the Btemps Hut. In the -meanwhile Perren had managed, after a struggle of two and a half hours, -almost to set himself free, and was eventually drawn out safely, -practically uninjured, save a slightly frost-bitten hand. The dead body -of Herr Flender, found with his neck broken, partially covered with some -2 feet of hard snow, was then extricated, but in spite of persistent -efforts the body of Herr Koenig was not recovered until the next day, -when he was found lying face downwards under a mass of compact snow over -10 feet thick. Death in his case was instantaneous, caused by -suffocation, the body bearing no signs whatever of external injury. Herr -Koenig was laid to rest in the English cemetery at Zermatt, while the -body of Herr Flender was conveyed by his relatives to its last -resting-place at Dsseldorf. This is, we think, the first fatal accident -which has occurred to a party of climbers on skis bound on a serious -climbing expedition. The party on this occasion cannot with justice be -accused of recklessness, for the apparent neglect of the usual -precaution of putting on the rope on a snow-covered glacier will not be -misunderstood by those accustomed to the use of skis, who will readily -understand that the rope is practically impossible, and even dangerous, -for a party on skis. - -"A remarkable feature of the accident was the thickness of the mass of -snow which gave way under the three men, and demonstrates the extreme -insecurity of winter snow on a crevassed glacier. It is possible that -the three men were perhaps too close to each other at the time of the -accident. - -"It is evident that winter climbers who wish to use skis must carry -their lives in their own hands, and perhaps the safer plan for future -expeditions of this kind will be to make the ascent roped in the usual -way on snow _racquettes_ carrying the skis on the back. On the descent -the risk of breaking through the snow covering during the rapid progress -on skis would of course be very much less than on the ascent." - -One of the most fruitful causes of accidents on mountains is the -underrating of difficulties by ignorant persons who, having been hauled -up and let down precipices by a couple of sturdy guides in fine weather, -proceed to inform their friends and acquaintances that "Nowadays the -Matterhorn is mere child's play, don't cher know." - -A sorry tale is told by the famous climber, Mr Cecil Slingsby, who, -himself accustomed to undertake the hardest climbs without guides, would -be the first to discourage imitation in any unfit to follow in his -steps. - -Writing of Skagastldstind, in Norway, of which he made the first -ascent, and which is still considered the most difficult of the -fashionable climbs in that country, he says in _The Alpine Journal_: - -"In 1880 a young tourist, son of a rich banker, whom I will call Nils, -desirous of emulating our exploits, attempted the mountain, and with the -assistance of two good climbers, who shoved and hauled him up the rocks, -succeeded in reaching the summit. Unfortunately, he afterwards wrote a -pamphlet of sixty-six pages about the mountain, in which he underrated -its difficulties. This pamphlet, I unhesitatingly assert, has been the -main cause of a terrible tragedy which took place on Skagastldstind. It -was in this manner. At one of the series of huts built by the tourist -club a young man, named Tnsberg, who had been partially deranged, was -staying with his wife, and was deriving much benefit from the mountain -air. Here he read this pamphlet, and inferred that though -Skagastldstind was undoubtedly a very fine mountain, yet the -difficulties of its ascent had been much exaggerated, and that any one -might make it. Upon this he set off with a lad seventeen years of age, -at 9.30 P.M., in vile weather; walked through the night (in the middle -of summer it is never dark), and reached a saetor (or chlet) at 3 A.M.; -here they found Peter, one of Nils' guides, who refused to have anything -more to do with the mountain. At last, by means of bribes, and by -promising to turn back at once if the mountain should prove -impracticable, Peter was persuaded to go forward; and at 6 o'clock they -sallied out into the wet. Wind and snow soon assailed them, but -Tnsberg would persist in his rash work. At 11 they reached the actual -base of the peak, 4100 feet below the top. The lad was frost-bitten and -could go no further; neither could Peter. They tried to tie the man with -ropes, but he was too strong for them, and used his alpenstock against -them, and it was no good. Soon afterwards he left them in the mist, and -in twenty strides was out of sight. A month or five weeks after this his -remains were found in a deep chasm between a glacier and the rocks, -amidst crags at least 2000 feet higher up on the mountain. I may add -that the valley Midt Maradal, out of which Skagastldstind rises, is so -difficult to approach, that though it contains rich pasturage at its -lower end--a mine of wealth in Norway--its owner, a man of forty-five -years, who has overlooked it hundreds of times and lives within three -miles of it as the crow flies, had never been in it when I saw him last, -and has asked me several times to guide him into it." - -Referring to an expedition from Mouvoison, which began, as do most -climbs, over grass slopes, Mr Clinton Dent remarks in _Above the Snow -Line_: - -"One ascent over a grass slope is very much like another, and -description in detail would be as wearisome as the slopes themselves -often prove. Yet it is worthy of notice that there is an art to be -acquired even in climbing grass slopes. We had more than one -opportunity on the present occasion of seeing that persons look -supremely ridiculous if they stumble about, and we noticed also that, -like a bowler when he has delivered a long hop to the off for the third -time in one over, the stumbler invariably inspects the nails in his -boots, a proceeding which deceives no one. It is quite easy to judge of -a man's real mountaineering capacity by the way in which he attacks a -steep grass slope. The unskilful person, who fancies himself perfectly -at home among the intricacies of an ice-fall, will often candidly admit -that he never can walk with well-balanced equilibrium on grass, a form -of vegetable which it might be thought in many instances of -self-sufficient mountaineers, would naturally suit them. There is often -real danger in such places, and not infrequently the wise man will -demand the use of the rope, especially when there are any tired members -among the party. There is no better way of learning how to preserve a -proper balance on a slope than by practising on declivities of moderate -steepness, and it is astonishing to find how often those who think they -have little to learn, or, still worse, that there is nothing to learn, -will find themselves in difficulties on a mountain-side, and forced to -realise that they have got themselves into a rather humiliating -position. We may have seen, before now, all of us, distinguished -cragsmen to whom an ascent of the Weisshorn or Matterhorn was but a mere -stroll, utterly pounded in botanical expeditions after Edelweiss, and -compelled to regain a position of security by very ungraceful sprawls, -or, worse still, have to resort to the unpardonable alternative of -asking for assistance." - -The following accounts of adventures on grass slopes, taken from _The -Alpine Journal_, may serve to bear out the truth of Mr Dent's remarks: - -"On Monday, 31st August, Mr J. F. C. Devas, aged 26, accompanied by a -friend, Mr A. G. Ferard, proceeded after lunch to take a stroll from the -Riffel-Haus towards the Gorner Glacier by the Thodule path. Before -reaching the glacier they returned, Mr Ferard by the ordinary route. Mr -Devas, leaving the path to the left, attempted a short cut by climbing -some wet and slippery rocks leading to a grass slope above. He reached a -difficult place, immediately below the slope, beyond which he was unable -to go. Mr Ferard made his way as speedily as possible to the grass slope -and to within a few yards of his friend. While Mr Ferard was -endeavouring to render assistance, Mr Devas, in trying to pull himself -up, lost his footing and slid down about 70 feet to a ledge covered with -turf, which it might have been hoped would have arrested his fall. -Unfortunately, the impetus was sufficient to carry him over the ledge to -a further distance of about 70 feet below. His friend hastened to the -Riffel-Haus for assistance, and a number of guides and porters, -accompanied by Mr Ferard and a French gentleman, hurried to the scene of -the accident. Mr Devas, who had sustained a severe fracture of the -skull, was brought back to the Riffel-Haus about 5 P.M., where he -received the most unremitting care from M. Seiler's staff of servants. -He was unconscious from the moment of the accident till he died at noon -of the following day." - -Another writer gives an account of an adventure on a grass slope which, -happily, had a less serious ending. He also attempted to make a short -cut. - -"I entangled myself in an adventure which, as nearly as possible, ended -in a catastrophe. Not caring to turn back, I followed a track past the -chlets of Cavrera, in hope of being able to find a direct ascent over -the steep lower ground that enclosed the head of the valley. It seemed -as I advanced that among the ledges of rock and grass at the left-hand -corner there would be access to the path above. A dubious and attenuated -track which led me up in this direction after giving evidence of design -in a few steps notched in the great gneiss slabs, vanished, leaving me -to choose between the slabs which sloped up in front and a line of -juniper bushes on the left of them. As the slabs at this spot could be -walked upon, and higher up seemed to ease off again, I kept to the rocks -without investigating the juniper belt. But walking exchanged itself for -climbing, and I continued to ascend under the impression that I should -shortly gain the inclination above. I came to a spot where I had to -raise myself on to a small rounded knob of rock with a slight effort, -there being no hand-hold above. From this vantage-ground I was able to -repeat the process, still buoyed up with the belief that the easy part -would be reached above, and to hoist myself on to the only remaining -hold in the neighbourhood--a strong tuft of grass in a sort of half -corner in the slabs--which supported one foot well, but one foot only. I -now found I could go no further. The strata inclined downwards, so that -the smooth and crackless slabs overlay one another like the slates on a -house-roof, and there was no more hold for hand or foot apparent, while -the slabs were far too steep for unsupported progression. The next -discovery was a much more alarming one; I looked below, wondered why on -earth I had come up such a place, and saw at a glance that I could not -get down again. If I fell, moreover, it would not be by the line of my -ascent, but down steeper rocks and to a lower depth. Generally in a -dilemma in climbing there is a sort of instinctive feeling that an -escape will be made at last, but now, for the first time, I was seized -with a sentiment akin to despair. One chance only remained, and that was -to take off my boots and stockings and try the slabs above. - -"The stories of extraordinary predicaments in the Alps one is apt to -receive with some incredulity. I never altogether accepted the tale of -the chamois-hunter's gashing his feet, and, needless to say, it did not -occur to me to imitate him in this particular. For the rest, I can only -promise the literal narration of circumstances _as they presented -themselves to me at the time_. It is, indeed, sufficiently sensational -without exaggeration. Well, it appeared at first impossible to take my -boots off; I was facing the rocks with one toe on the turf, and the -necessary manipulation could not be accomplished. What was to be done? -This was, perhaps, the worst moment of the whole, as far as sensation -went. However, by turning round, and planting my heel on the tuft and my -back on the rock, I found myself in a secure and tolerably comfortable -position. I now set to work and slung my boots separately round my neck -as I took them off, pocketing the socks. All was done with deliberation; -the laces were as usual untied with the button-hook in my cherished -knife, and the latter was carefully returned to my pocket with the -thought that if it went down it should be in my company. Meantime the -necessary rigidity of position had to be preserved; there was only room -in the turf for one heel, and for the point of my ice-axe, for which -there was no other possible resting-place. Its preservation, indeed, -that day was wonderful; at one time I felt a momentary temptation to -throw it down in order to better the hold with the hand, but this would -not bear a second thought. - -"I now lost no time in placing myself on the slabs. I found that I dare -not move on them in an upright position, and had to seek support with -both hands. My condition was not an enviable one, and in no direction -could an effort to proceed be made without danger. The situation was as -follows: If I could manage to advance in front, I should, eventually, -reach the more easily inclined slabs, on which I could walk; but then it -was some way. If I could cross the much shorter interval (some 15 feet) -to the right, I should reach a grass band below the rocks at the side; -but then there intervened a broad, black, glistening streak, where -waters oozed down and where to tread was fatal. Suddenly, without any -warning, I found myself going down. I remember no slip, but rather that -it was as if all hold gave way at once under the too potent force of -gravity. Anyhow I was sliding down the rocks, and that helplessly I -made, I believe, little or no attempt to obtain fresh hold; I simply -remained rigid in the position in which I was, waiting for the fatal -momentum to come which should dash me below. The instants passed, and at -each I expected the momentum to begin. I felt quite a surprise when, -instead, the sliding mass slowly pulled up and came to a stoppage. The -scales of fate had been most delicately balanced, and a hair's weight in -the right one decided that this paper should be written. Had I -floundered, like a non-swimmer out of his depth, I must have gone down; -but the first moments of despondency past the opening for action had -once for all brought with it that species of mechanical coolness which -is the happy concomitant of so many forms of habitual physical -occupation. - -[Illustration: The balloon "Stella" getting ready to start from Zermatt -for the first balloon passage of the Alps, September, 1903. - -(_P. 301._)] - -[Illustration: A bivouac in the Alps in the olden days. By the late Mr. -W. F. Donkin.] - -[Illustration: Boulder practice on an off day. - -_To face_ p 148.] - -[Illustration: The last rocks on the descent.] - -"If it be asked, what were my thoughts when I was going down, I can only -reply that they chiefly amounted to a sort of dull feeling that I was -actually in for a fall, being concentrated on waiting for its inevitable -commencement; and that there was no such terror or disagreeable -realisation of the situation as people are apt to assign to such -moments. Such realisations exist most deeply in the imaginations of the -non-combatants outside the fray. During the whole affair my attention -was mainly directed to the physical combating with difficulties, and the -passing reflections were partly indifferent, partly frivolous. A sort -of acceptance of the position, indeed, possessed me, which almost -amounted to a melancholy complacency, and, at most, perhaps, the -customary 'When I get out of this' was changed as fast as it rose up in -my imagination into a sadder 'If ever.' It was the feeling of the -gamester or the soldier surprised at last by adverse odds, intent on his -craft as at other times, but with a new and melancholy consciousness. - -"My first thought when I came to a standstill--I cannot have gone more -than a couple of feet at most--was what I could do even then, with no -more hold than before? But I placed myself again in my old position on -the tuft; and reflecting that if I had been intended to go down I should -have gone then, and almost feeling as if, having escaped that extremity -of risk, I had a sort of security for the rest, I resolved without -further hesitation to make a determined effort. I once more raised -myself on my feet and decided to make a push across the slabs to the -grass belt at all hazards; possibly, in case of slipping on the way, I -might be able to make a desperate sort of rush for it. I now found two -unevennesses in succession, which would allow the side of the foot to -rest in them with some chance of staying, while I moved my body along, -there being at no time hold for the hand. The second of these slight -hollows was fortunately in the dread bank of moisture itself. Below, -the rocks shelved away to a steep fall; in front, the grass tufts smiled -on me nearer and nearer. While I was feeling along the slabs with the -hand that held my ice-axe, the latter by chance fixed itself in a cavity -that would otherwise have escaped my notice. It was just about the size -and depth of a half-crown, and could not have been caught by the -fingers, but the rigid iron stuck in it. This was perhaps the first bit -of direct hold I had. A yard further on was another of the same size. -But now I had passed the wet rock and was nearing the grass, and -carefully launching my ice-axe, so as not to disturb my balance, I -hooked it in the grass, and in another moment had reached its hospitable -tufts. Creeping up the side, I at last found _terra firma_." - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -A NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE DENT BLANCHE - - -Mr Cecil Slingsby has kindly allowed me to extract the following -admirable account of a guideless ascent with two friends of the Dent -Blanche. It will be noticed that during a very cold night they "avoided" -their "brandy-flask like poison." When a climber is exhausted and help -is near a flask of brandy is invaluable, but when a party has to spend a -bitterly cold night in the open, it is madness to touch spirits at all. -The effect of a stimulant is to quicken the action of the heart and -drive the blood with increased rapidity to the surface. Here it is -continually cooled, and before long the heart finds it has to work -double hard to keep up the circulation. Therefore to take brandy in -order to resist the cold for hours together is like stirring up a cup of -hot fluid, whereby fresh surfaces are continually brought in contact -with the air and cooled with far greater rapidity than if left quiet. -The best companion a climber can have during a night out above the -snow-line is a small spirit-lamp. With this he can amuse and fortify -himself at intervals, melting snow and making tea or soup, which will be -of real help in enabling the party to pass without injury through the -ordeal. Doctors and climbers of experience will, I know, bear out what I -say. The truth of it was once more shown not very long ago under the -following circumstances: - -[Illustration: PROVISIONS FOR A MOUNTAIN HOTEL. By Royston Le Blond. - -_To face p. 152._] - -[Illustration: THE DENT BLANCHE FROM THE THEODULE GLACIER IN SUMMER.] - -[Illustration: AN OUTLOOK OVER ROCK AND SNOW.] - -[Illustration: THE DENT BLANCHE FROM THE SCHWARZSEE IN WINTER.] - -In August 1902 two French tourists with a guide and a porter set out to -ascend Mont Blanc. The weather became very bad, nevertheless they -pressed on, hoping to reach that veritable death-trap, the Vallot Hut. -In this they failed, and as the hour was late they took the fatal course -of digging a hole in the snow in which to pass the night. They were -provided with brandy, and, doubtless in ignorance of the results it was -sure to cause, they shared all they had. Both travellers died before -morning, and the guides then attempted to descend to Chamonix. They seem -to have been dazed, and to have lost their heads, and within a few -minutes of each other each fell into a crevasse. The porter was killed -on the spot, the guide was rescued, but little injured, after six hours' -imprisonment. - -Will people ever realise that Mont Blanc, by reason of the very facility -by which it may be ascended, is the most dangerous mountain a beginner -can ascend? He is almost certain to chance on incompetent guides, and -these, if the weather becomes bad, have not the moral force--indeed a -first-class man would have something even more compelling--to insist on -an immediate return. The size of the mountain is so great that to be -lost on it is a risk a really good guide would simply refuse to face. - -To turn now to Mr Slingsby's narrative. His party had reached the -_arte_ of the Dent Blanche without incident, and he writes: - -"The rocks on the crest of the ridge were in perfect order. The day was -magnificent, and there was not the remotest sign of a storm. Climbers -who were on neighbouring mountains on this day all speak of the fine -weather. My friend, Mr Eric Greenwood, who was on the Rothhorn, told me -that that peak was in capital condition, but that there was a strong -N.W. wind blowing at the top. We had perfect calm. Mr Greenwood stopped -on the snow _arte_ till a late hour in the afternoon, taking -photographs, and neither his guides nor he had the slightest expectation -of a thunderstorm. - -"We stuck faithfully to the ridge, and climbed up, and as nearly as -possible over, each point as we reached it, because of the ice which -shrouded the rocks almost everywhere on the west face. - -"We were forced on to the face of one little pinnacle, and had to use -the greatest care. - -"Nowhere did we come to any place where we felt that our powers were -overtaxed; still, the work was difficult, though not supremely so. - -"A few days later I met Mr Conway at Breuil, and I asked him what he -meant in this case by the term, 'following the _arte_.' His -interpretation, which is rather an elastic one, is this: 'Climb over the -pinnacles if it is convenient to do so. If not convenient, shirk them by -passing below their western bases.' This latter method was most probably -impracticable on the occasion of our ascent, which fully accounts for -the great difference between Mr Conway's 'times' and our own, as we -certainly climbed at least as quickly as an average party on the Dent -Blanche during the whole of our ascent. - -"The time sped merrily and quickly by, and the difficulties decreased as -we hastened onward. Just as we left the last rocks a light filmy cloud, -sailing up from the north, hovered for an instant over the top of the -mountain, and then settled upon it; otherwise, though it had then become -exceedingly cold, the sky was clear and the day perfect, and we could -not help comparing our good fortune with that of those early climbers -who fought their way upwards, step by step, against most ferocious -gales. - -"After some tiring step-cutting on the gentler slopes above the rocks, -which, like the west face, were sheathed in ice, we reached at last the -south end of the little flat ridge which forms the summit of the Dent -Blanche, where a small flagstaff is usually to be seen. Here there was -an enormous snow cornice which overhung the eastern side. The little -cloud merely clung to the cornice on the ridge, and evidently had no -malice in it at all. None of us put down the time at which we reached -the top. One of us thinks that it was just after four o'clock, but the -memory of the two others is clear that it was between three and four; at -any rate, of this we are all agreed, that it was not so late as 4.12, -the hour when the author of _Scrambles in the Alps_ reached the summit -in bad weather. My watch, being out of order, was left at Zermatt. - -"We left directly, and in less than a minute were out of the little -cloud, which was uncommonly cold, and again we revelled in bright -sunshine. We were under no apprehension of danger, nor had we any reason -whatever to be anxious, as our way was clear enough: there was no doubt -about that. We were in capital training, and we had, most certainly, a -sufficiency of daylight still left to allow us to get well beyond every -difficulty upon the mountain. Moreover, Solly, with his usual -instinctive thoughtfulness, carried a lantern in his pocket, and we had -left another lower down. Thus we had a most reasonable expectation of -reaching the Stockje that evening, and Zermatt early the next morning. - -[Illustration: The hut on the Col de Bertol, where climbers now often -sleep for the ascent of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: A party ascending the Aiguilles Rouges (Arolla). The -people can be seen on the sky-line to the left, at the top of the white -streak. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: The summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: Cornice on the summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard -Rawlence. - -_To face p. 156._] - -"When we had come down for about an hour, we saw an occasional flash of -lightning playing about the Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla. This was the -first indication that we had of foul weather. Soon afterwards a dark -cloud crept up ominously over the shoulder of Mont Collon, and on to the -Pigne d'Arolla. Still no cloud seemed to threaten us, but we hurried on -very quickly. - -"On arriving at the col, just above the great rock tower, we turned down -a little gully on the west face. Here, though the work was exceedingly -difficult, we lost no time whatever, and undoubtedly we chose the best -route. The storm, meanwhile, had crossed over the east Arolla ridge, and -we saw the lightning flashing about the Aiguille de la Za and Dent -Perroc, and the clouds, as they advanced, grew more and more angry -looking. - -"We were advancing as quickly as the nature of the ground would allow on -a buttress which supports the great tower on the west. It was then about -six o'clock. We had, at the most, only 150 feet of difficult ground to -get over, when a dark and dense cloud fell upon us, and it became, -suddenly and almost without any warning, prematurely dark. Our axes -emitted electric sparks, or rather faint but steady little flames, on -both the adze and pick part; so also did our gloves, the hair of which -stood out quite straight. A handkerchief, which I had tied over my hat, -was like a tiara of light. This was very uncanny, but still deeply -interesting. The sparks, when touched by the bare hand or the cheek, -gave out no heat. There was no hissing to be heard on our axes or on the -rocks, but Solly felt a sort of vibration about the spectacles which -were on his forehead that he did not at all like, so he put them under -his hat. - -"Under ordinary circumstances we should have put away our axes until the -storm should had passed away. Of course we did not do this, nor indeed -would any other member of the Alpine Club have done so if he had had the -good fortune to be with us. We wished to get across the 150 feet which -was the only difficulty yet remaining before us. Each one of us was -quite capable of undertaking the work, and, in spite of the unusual -darkness, we had sufficient light for the purpose. - -"Solly was leading across a difficult bit of rock, and clearing away the -ice; Haskett-Smith was paying out the rope as required; I was perched -firmly at the bottom end of a narrow and steep ledge round the corner of -a crag above them with the rope firmly hitched. We were all working -steadily and most carefully, and hoped in a few minutes to clear our -last difficulty. All at once the whole mountain side seemed to be -ablaze, and at the same time there was a muzzled, muffled, or suppressed -peal of thunder, apparently coming out of the interior of the -mountain--so much so that, if a great crevice had been opened in the -rocks and fire had burst out from it, we should hardly have been more -surprised than we were. Solly and Haskett-Smith each exclaimed, 'My axe -was struck,' and each of them, naturally enough, let his axe go. Where -to none knew. Solly, describing this, says, 'At the moment I was -standing with my face towards the mountain, with my right arm stretched -out, feeling for a firm foothold with my axe, which I held just under -its head. For perhaps a minute the lightning was coming very fast; then -came the noise, and I saw a curve of flame on the head of my axe. I -involuntarily let it go. The whole place seemed one blaze of light, and -I could distinguish nothing. The thought that rushed through my mind -was--Am I blinded? the intensity of the light was so terrible. It is -difficult to put such events in any order of time; but I think the noise -or explosion came first, before the blaze of light, and the light seemed -to flicker as if a series of flashes were coming. I hardly know whether -my body or any part of my clothing was actually struck. My axe certainly -was, and I think the rocks just by me were.' - -"Haskett-Smith said that his neck was burnt, and we saw later that a -dark-brown band, an inch and a quarter wide, had been burnt exactly half -way round his neck. I was untouched. All the sparks disappeared with -the flash. - -"Now the matter was serious enough, as we had only one axe, and we felt -that we had had a most providential escape. There is little doubt that, -if this had occurred upon the crest of the ridge above us, the electric -current would have been much stronger, and the consequences much worse. - -"My two companions then climbed up to the little ledge where I was -sitting, to wait at least until the storm should pass away. Whilst Solly -was doing this, a tremendous gust of wind swept up from the N.W., and -nearly carried him off his feet. - -"The storm lasted much longer than we expected it to do, and by the time -it had vanished it was quite dark. All climbers will readily agree with -me when I say that the storm, seen from such a point of view, where the -mountain forms are so wild, and their guardian glaciers so vast and -glittering, was indescribably grand--so much so that, even under our -circumstances, there was a kind of grim enjoyment which we could not -help feeling. - -"I put my axe upon a higher ledge for safety's sake. When the storm had -gone by we took stock of our goods. Solly had a lantern. We each had two -shirts, scarfs, and unusually warm clothing. We had plenty of food, some -cold tea, and a flask of brandy. We knew well that we must stop where we -were until morning. It was hard luck certainly, as there was only one -narrow prison moat between us and freedom. Once over these 150 feet, we -could have reached the Stockje by lantern light. Of this I am certain. -But no man living could cross the moat except in daylight. - -"Haskett-Smith, who is a marvellous man for making all sort of hitches, -knots, and nooses, managed to get a capital hitch for our rope, and -lashed us to the rock most skilfully. The ledge was steep, and varied -from 1 to 2 feet wide. As we could not sit back to back, which is the -best plan when possible, we did the next best thing, and sat, squatted, -or leaned, face to back. Solly, who sat at the bottom, had a loose piece -of friable rock which supported one foot. I was in the middle, with my -knees up to my chin, on a steep slope, but was supported by Solly's back -and by a singularly sharp little stone on which I squatted. -Haskett-Smith leaned with his back against a corner, and with his knees -against my back. Each of us had a rcksack, which helped to keep out the -cold. We made a good meal of potted meat, bread, chocolate, and an -orange, and left a box of sardines and other food for the morning. - -"Several short but heavy snow and hail showers fell after the -thunderstorm had subsided, but we were thankful that there was no rain. -The wind got up too, and whistled wildly through the crags above us. -Fortunately, a screen of rock above our ledge partly sheltered us. We -faced a grim and grisly little pinnacle on the west face of the -mountain, which became, hour after hour, if possible, more ghostly. How -we did hate it, to be sure. A light in a chlet near Ferpcle shone like -a beacon for some hours, which was a pleasant contrast to the near view -of the ghost, but it seemed to be a terribly long way off. We kept up -our spirits capitally, and from previous experience I, at least, knew -how thankful we ought to be that no member of our party was of a -pessimistic turn of mind. At the same time, we were fully aware how -serious the matter was, but we were determined to get well through it, -helped, we trusted, by a power not our own. - -"Our greatest trouble during the night arose from the consciousness that -Mr Schuster, Herr Seiler, and other friends at Zermatt would be very -anxious about us, and we often spoke of it with regret. - -"We were most careful to keep moving our hands and feet all the night, -and, though the temptation to indulge in sleep was very great, we denied -ourselves this luxury. After two o'clock an increased vigilance was -necessary, as the sky became clearer, and the cold much more intense. Mr -Aitkin's guides, who were then bivouacking above the Stockje, -'complained much of the cold.' We probably suffered less than they did, -as, at our great altitude, the air was doubtless much drier than below. -At the same time, gentlemen who were occupying comfortable beds in -luxurious hotels in the Vispthal thought the night was unusually warm. -Haskett-Smith imagined the whole night that Solly was another member of -the A.C., and invariably addressed him by the wrong name. This -hallucination was, no doubt, the result of the electric shock. - -"Shortly before 5 A.M. we opened our sardine-box, which was no easy -task, as our outer gloves were like iron gauntlets. We made a good meal -of petrified fish, frozen oranges, and bread. We avoided our -brandy-flask like poison on the whole expedition. - -"We soon discovered the lost axes below us, half embedded in hard snow. -Then we began to move. Solly took my axe, and with much difficulty, and -at the expense of a good deal of time, cut down to and recovered one of -the missing ones. We found, however, that it was then far too cold, and -we were too benumbed to work safely, so we returned to our ledge again -until eight o'clock. Long before this hour the ghostly pinnacle was -gilded by the morning sun, and, if possible, we hated it more than ever, -as no warm rays could reach the place where we were for hours to come. -On telling several of the leading guides in Zermatt about waiting until -eight o'clock on the ledge, they all said that it was quite early -enough for us to move after spending a night out in the cold, and that -they had done exactly the same under similar circumstances. We were sure -we were right; still their testimony is valuable. Messrs Kennedy and -Hardy, when they had their 'Night Adventure on the Bristenstock,' say -they were 'obliged to stamp about for some twenty minutes in order to -restore circulation, or we should not have had sufficient steadiness to -have continued our descent in safety.' Well, these gentlemen had neither -waistcoats nor neckties, and had only a lump of bread and one bottle of -wine. We were at least well fed and warmly clad, but we had no room to -stamp about. Having now two axes, we were able to work again with -renewed confidence in our powers. We saw the third axe lying half -imbedded in the snow a long way below us, and about a rope's length from -some firm rocks. The hail and snow, which had partly covered the rocks, -increased the difficulty, and the ice in which we had to cut steps was -unusually hard. In fact, our 150 feet were gained with much difficulty, -and, by the exercise of great caution and severe labour, at last, after -much time and manoeuvring, we recovered the third axe, and were indeed -happy. - -"Two minutes later we stood in bright sunshine, and such was its -invigorating power that in ten minutes all our stiffness had vanished. -My hat blew off here, and rolled on its stiffened brim at a tremendous -pace down a couloir of ice. Fortunately, I had a woollen helmet which -Miss Richardson had knitted for me. We hastened on very quickly in order -to relieve, as soon as possible, the anxiety which we well knew our -friends at Zermatt were enduring. - -"When on the snow ridge between points 3912 mtres and 3729 mtres we -heard voices far below us on the west, and soon saw what we knew -afterwards to be Mr Aitkin, Imboden, and a porter. They had abandoned -their intention of climbing the Dent Blanche 'on account of bad -weather.' Indeed, Miss Richardson, who had spent the night at the -Stockje, was told by Imboden that 'in such weather it would be -impossible, and probably would remain so for a day or two; therefore, -they might as well go to Ferpcle and do another col the next day.' - -"Seeing that the party were above the route to Ferpcle, we knew at once -that they were looking for us. Imboden shouted out to us, 'Where do you -come from?' We pointed to the Dent Blanche, and they immediately turned -towards Zermatt, and we only missed them by about five minutes at the -usual breakfast place. - -"Now, as we knew that there was no need for us to hurry, we rested, and -made a most hearty breakfast, as we had left on the rocks a whole -chicken, some ham, bread, plums, and a bottle of white wine. - -"On crossing the glacier to the Wandfluh rocks our axes and rcksacks -hissed like serpents for a long time, while we saw in the distance the -storm which overtook Mr Macdonald on the Lyskamm that very morning; and -none of us liked the renewal of electric energy, which may well be -believed. A heavy mist also threatened us. Mr Aitkin had a similar -experience to ours. - -"We descended by way of the Wandfluh, and above the Stockje untied the -rope which we had had on for thirty-eight hours; and such is the virtue -of the Alpine knot that we were as firmly tied at the end of this time -as we were when we first put on the rope. - -"On the Zmutt Glacier we bathed our hands repeatedly in the glacier -pools as a safeguard against possible frost-bites with entirely -satisfactory results. On the glacier we were delighted to meet Mr E. T. -Hartley, who welcomed us most warmly, and told us of the anxiety of our -friends; he, however, and one good lady in Zermatt said all the time -that we should return safe and sound again. Just off the glacier we met -three porters provided with blankets and provisions sent by the kind -thoughtfulness of Mr Schuster and Herr Seiler. - -"We rested at the Staffel Alp, where we had some most refreshing tea, -and reached Zermatt in the evening." - - - - -CHAPTER X - -ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE - - -I am indebted to Mr Harold Spender, the author of a fine description of -the accident in 1899 on the Dent Blanche, for permission to reprint the -greater portion of it, and also to the proprietors of _McClure's -Magazine_ and of _The Strand Magazine_, in which publications it first -appeared. The safe return of one of the party is alluded to in _The -Alpine Journal_ as one of the most wonderful escapes in the whole annals -of mountaineering. - -"Mr F. W. Hill, whose narrative in _The Alpine Journal_ necessarily -forms the best evidence as to the incidents, says that it was Glynne -Jones who wanted to climb the Dent Blanche by its western _arte_--a -notably difficult undertaking, and one that has probably only twice been -achieved. - -"Glynne Jones had discussed the possibilities of the undertaking with -his own guide, Elias Furrer, of Stalden, and they had come to the -conclusion that the conditions were never likely to be more favourable -than in this August of 1899. Glynne Jones, therefore, asked Mr Hill to -accompany them, and to bring along with him his own guide, Jean -Vuignier, of Evolena. Both guides knew their climbers very well; for -Furrer had been with Glynne Jones on and off for five years, and -Vuignier had climbed at Zermatt with Hill the year before. But Mr Hill, -who had promised to take his wife to Zermatt over the Col d'Herens, -refused to go. Glynne Jones accordingly secured a second guide in -Clemens Zurbriggen, of Saas-Fe, a young member of a great climbing -clan. Vuignier, however, was so disappointed at his employer's refusal, -that Mr Hill, finding that his wife made no objection, finally consented -to join the party. Thus, with the addition of Mr Hill and his guide, the -expedition numbered five members. They left Arolla on Sunday morning, -27th August, with a porter carrying blankets. They intended to sleep on -the rocks below the _arte_. Arriving at the Bricolla chlets, a few -shepherds' huts high up the mountain, at four in the afternoon, they -changed their minds, sent the blankets down to Arolla, and slept in the -huts. - -"They started at three o'clock in the morning in two parties, the first -consisting of Furrer, Zurbriggen, and Jones, roped in that order, and -the second of Vuignier and Hill. They crossed the glacier and reached -the ridge in good time. 'It was soon very evident,' says Mr Hill in his -narrative, 'that the climbing was going to be difficult, as the rocks -were steep slabs, broken and easy occasionally, but, on the whole, far -too smooth.' Rock-climbers do not particularly care how steep a rock may -be so long as it is broken up into fissures which will give hold to the -feet and hands. In the steepest mountains of the Dolomite region, for -instance, the rocks are thus broken, and therefore mountains can be -climbed easily which, from their bases, look absolutely inaccessible. - -"As they progressed up and along the ridge the climbing became more and -more difficult. They had to go slowly and with extreme caution, and -often they were in doubt as to the best way to proceed. Sometimes, -indeed, there seemed no possible route. In these places Furrer, who -seems to have been accepted as the leader of the party, would detach -himself from the rope and go forward to find a passage. - -"On entering upon this part of the climb the two parties had joined -ropes, and were now advancing as one, and roped in this order--Furrer, -Zurbriggen, Glynne Jones, Vuignier, and Hill. - -"It is evident that between nine o'clock and ten climbing had become -exceedingly arduous. 'In two or three places,' says Mr Hill, 'the only -possible way was over an overhanging rock up which the leader had to be -pushed and the others helped from above and below.' This gives us a -graphic picture of the nature of the climb. Nothing is more fatiguing -than to climb over a rock which is in the least degree overhanging. Mr -Hill tells me that Furrer showed him his finger-tips at -breakfast-time--9 A.M.--and that they were severely cut. - -"Yet no one must imagine for an instant that the party was in the least -degree puzzled or vexed. There is nothing so exhilarating as the -conflict with danger, and it generally happens in climbing a mountain -that the party is merriest at the most difficult places. Mr Hill, -indeed, tells us that they were in the 'highest spirits.' 'Climbing -carefully,' he says, 'but in the highest spirits, we made good progress, -for at ten o'clock it was agreed we were within an hour of the summit.' -It was at this point and time that the accident occurred. - -"They had been forced below the ridge by the difficulty of the rocks, -and had come to a place where their obvious route lay up a narrow gully, -or sloping chimney. On an ordinary day it is possible that they would -have found no difficulty in going forward, but a few days before there -had been rain, and probably snow, on these high rock summits. At any -rate, the rocks were 'glazed'; covered, that is, with a film of ice, -probably snow melted and re-frozen, just sufficiently thick to adhere, -and sufficiently slippery to make the fingers 'slither' over the rocks. -If the climber cannot clear away the ice with his ice-axe, he must go -round another way, and if the rocks are steep the first course becomes -obviously impossible. That was the condition of affairs at ten o'clock -on the morning of 28th August 1899. - -"In a party of five roped together, with 30 feet of rope between each -member, the amount of space covered by the party will obviously be 40 -yards; and it frequently happens that those who are roped last cannot -see the leaders. Mr Hill, as we have seen, was roped last, and by the -time he reached the level of the other climbers Furrer had already -turned away from the gully and was attempting to climb to the ridge by -another route. To the left of the gully in front of them was a vertical -rock face stretching for about 30 feet. Beyond this was a smooth-looking -buttress some 10 feet high, by climbing which the party could regain the -ridge. When Hill came up with the rest, Furrer was already attempting to -climb this buttress. - -"But the buttress was quite smooth, and Furrer was at a loss to find a -hold. Unable to support himself, he called to Zurbriggen to place an axe -under his feet for him to stand on. In this way he might be able to -reach with his hands to the top of the buttress. There was nothing -unusual in this method of procedure. In climbing difficult rocks, when -the hand-holds are far up, it is frequently the custom to help the -climber by placing an ice-axe under his feet. But in this case Furrer -discovered that he could not climb the buttress with the help of -Zurbriggen alone, and he would probably have done more wisely if he had -abandoned the attempt. But, instead of that, he called Glynne Jones to -help Zurbriggen in holding him up. - -"'Apparently,' says Mr Hill, 'he did not feel safe, for he turned his -head and spoke to Glynne Jones, who then went to hold the axe steady.' - -"From Mr Hill's own explanations the situation was as follows: The -leading climber, Furrer, was grasping the rock face, standing on an -ice-axe held vertically by Zurbriggen and Glynne Jones. These two were -forced, in order to hold the ice-axe securely, to crouch down with their -faces to the ground, and were, therefore oblivious of what was going on -above them. But the important point is, that their four hands were -occupied in holding the ice-axe, and that as they were standing on a -narrow ledge, with a very sharp slope immediately below, these two men -were in a helpless position. They were unready to stand a shock. Thus, -at the critical moment, out of a party of five climbers, three had -virtually cast everything on a single die! - -"Mr Hill, standing level with the rest of the party, could see quite -clearly what was happening. He was about 60 feet distant from them, the -guide Vuignier being roped between them at an equal distance of some 30 -feet from each. Furrer could now stand upright on the axe, which was -firmly held by four strong hands, and could reach with his own fingers -to the top of the buttress. It was a perilous moment. It is the rule -with skilled climbers that you should never leave your foot-hold until -you have secured your hand-hold. The natural issue would have been that -Furrer, finding it impossible to secure on the smooth rock a steady grip -with his hands, should have declined to trust himself. But the science -of the study is one thing and the art of the mountain another. There are -moments when a man does not know whether he has secured a steady grip or -an unsteady, and the question can only be answered by making the -attempt. If the party blundered at all, it was in allowing the second -and third men to be so completely occupied with holding the axe that -there was no reserve of power to hold up Furrer in case of a slip. But -it is easy to speak after the event. - -"What Hill now saw was this: He saw Furrer reach his hands to the top of -the buttress, take a grip, and attempt to pull himself up. But his feet -never left the ice-axe beneath, for in the process of gripping his hands -slipped. And then, as Hill looked, Furrer's body slowly fell back. It -seemed, he has told himself, to take quite a long time falling. Furrer -fell backwards, right on to the two oblivious men beneath him, causing -them to collapse instantly, knocking them off their standing-place, and -carrying them with him in his fall from the ridge. 'All three,' says Mr -Hill in his narrative, 'fell together.' Instinctively he turned to the -wall to get a better hold of the rock, and therefore did not see the -next incident in the fatal sequence. Vuignier, as we have seen, was -standing 30 feet from the first three, and the weight of three human -bodies swinging at the end of the rope must have come directly on him. -He was, apparently, taken by surprise, and immediately pulled off the -rock. Hill heard that terrible sound--the scuffle and rattle of stones -that meant the dragging of a helpless human being into space--and he -knew, or thought he knew, that his own turn would come in a moment; but -as he clung there to the rock, waiting for the inevitable end, there was -a pause. Nothing happened. - -"After a few endless seconds of time he faced round and found himself -alone. Looking down, he saw his four companions sliding down the -precipitous slopes at a terrific rate, without a cry, but with arms -outstretched, helplessly falling into the abyss. Between him and them, -and from his waist, there hung 30 feet of rope swinging slowly to and -fro. The faithful Vuignier had probably fastened the rope securely -round some point of rock to protect his master. The full weight of the -four bodies had probably expended itself on the rock-fastening of the -rope, and thereby saved the life of the fifth climber. Dazed and -astonished to find himself still in the land of the living, Mr Hill -stood for some time watching his comrades fall, until, sickened, he -turned away to face his own situation. - -"It was not very promising. He was without food, drink, or warm -clothing. No man alone could climb down by the ridge up which those five -experts had climbed in the morning. And in front lay a difficulty which -had already destroyed his friends when attempting to overcome it by -mutual help. It seemed impossible. - -"Perhaps it was fortunate that Hill was not only a mathematician, but a -man of characteristic mathematical temperament--cool, unemotional, -long-headed. Most men in his situation would have gone mad. Some would -have waited right there till starvation overcame them or a rescue party -arrived. But there was little or no chance of a rescue party, and Mr -Hill was certainly not the man to wait for starvation. It was a curious -irony that probably at that very moment there was a party on the summit -of the Dent Blanche. Mr Hill's party had seen two climbers on the south -_arte_ at half-past eight o'clock, and again about an hour later. At -this moment they were probably at the summit. But Mr Hill had no means -of communicating with them, and the hour's climb which lay between him -and them might as well have been the length of Europe. An hour later he -himself heard a faint 'cooey' (the party were probably on the way -down)--a jovial, generous hail from men unconscious of any catastrophe. - -"Mr Hill's immediate task was to regain the ridge and reach the summit. -At the moment of the accident he was some 60 feet from the fatal -buttress, and now wisely made no attempt to get near it. Instead, he -moved to circumvent the glazed gully from its other side. After long and -tedious efforts, lasting for a period of time which he cannot now even -approximately estimate, he succeeded in his flanking movement, and -finally, with great labour and peril, climbed back to the ridge by a -slope of frozen snow and ice broken with rocks. It would be difficult to -imagine anything more terrible than this lonely climb over ice-covered -rocks, the painful cutting of steps up an almost precipitous wall, with -a precipice many thousand feet deep at his back, down which the smallest -slip would send him to certain death. But at last he regained the ridge, -and the difficulties of ascent were now mainly overcome. In about -another hour he found himself on the summit--a solitary, mournful -victor. It was there he heard the shout from the other party. But he -could not see them or make them hear, and so he made his way down with -all reasonable speed, hoping to overtake them. - -"Hill had climbed the Dent Blanche in the previous year with a guided -party, and therefore, to some extent, knew the route. Without much -difficulty he was able to follow the ridge as far as possible down to -the lowest _gendarme_, a pile of rock with a deep, narrow fissure. Then -a sudden mist hid everything from view, and it was impossible to see the -way off the _gendarme_. He tried several routes downward in the mist, -but at last wisely resolved to wait till it lifted. While he was -searching, a snow-storm and a cold wind came up. 'They drove me,' says -Mr Hill in his plain way, 'to seek shelter in the lee of the rocks.' -There he tied himself with his rope, and, to avoid the danger of falling -off in a moment of sleep, still further secured himself by an ice-axe -wedged firmly in front of him--poor protections to a man absolutely -without food or wraps, clinging to the side of an abyss in the searching -cold and stormy darkness of mist and snow, wedged under the eave of an -overhanging rock, and only able to sit in a cramped posture. But Mr Hill -was no ordinary man. If the Fates were asking for his life he determined -to sell it dearly, sustained in his resolve by the thought of that -waiting wife, unconscious of ill, below in Zermatt. - -"It must have been, at this time, past mid-day on Monday, 28th August. - -"The storm lasted all that Monday, and Monday night, and Tuesday -morning. All through those dreadful hours of darkness Hill sat in the -cleft of rock, sleeping most of the time, but always half-frozen with -the cold, and whenever he awoke obliged to beat himself to regain his -natural warmth. Happily, he was well protected against the falling snow -by the eave of the overhanging rock, but it covered his knees and boots, -causing him intense cold in the feet. - -"At last, at mid-day on Tuesday, the mist cleared and the sun shone -again in a sky of perfect blue. He could now resume his descent. To -climb over snow-covered rocks in a roped party is difficult enough, but -to do it alone is to risk your life many times over. But there was no -alternative. - -"At last the rocks ended and the worst of the peril was over. He had -reached the snow _arte_, where not even the heavy fall of snow had -quite obliterated the tracks of those who had gone in front of him. -These helped him to find his way. But the steps had mostly to be recut, -and that must have been very fatiguing after his previous experiences. -The next difficulty was the lower part of the Wandfluh, a bold wall of -rock which leads down first to the Schonbuhl and then to the Zmutt -Glaciers, and which, at its base, ends in a steep precipice that can be -descended only by one gully. Here Mr Hill's memory failed him. He could -not remember which was the right gully. This was, perhaps, the most -terrible trial of all. If he could find that gully his task was almost -accomplished. The rest of the descent to Zermatt is little more than a -walk. But hour after hour passed; he descended gully after gully, only -to find himself blocked below by one precipice after another. In one of -these attempts he dropped his ice-axe, without which he could never hope -to return alive. Unless he could recover it he was a dead man. But, no, -it was not quite lost. There it lay, far below him, on the rocks. Slowly -and painfully he descended the gully to fetch it. At last he reached it. -In this quest he wasted a whole hour! - -"At last he discovered a series of chimneys to the extreme right of the -Wandfluh and leading down to the glacier. Letting himself down these -steep chimneys, he found himself at last, on Tuesday evening, on the -high moraines of the Zmutt Glacier. He must have reached the glacier -about six o'clock, but he had only the sun to reckon by. Here the steep -descent ends, and there is but a stony walk of two and a half hours down -the glacier by a path which leads to the Staffel Alp Inn. The sun set -while he was still on the moraine, and he has a vivid recollection of -seeing the red 'Alpengluh' on Monte Rosa. But as the darkness grew it -became more and more difficult to keep to the path. - -"Here at last his marvellous strength began to fail him. He had no -snow-glasses, and his eyes were suffering from the prolonged glare of -the snow. A sort of waking trance fell on him. As he stumbled forward, -over the stones of that horrible moraine, he imagined that his -companions were still alive and with him. He kept calling to them to -'come along.' 'It is getting late, you fellows,' he shouted; 'come -along.' - -"At last he was brought up by a great rock. In the darkness he had -wandered below the path. The rock entirely barred his way. He had a -vague illusion that it was a chlet, and wandered round it searching for -a door. At last he settled down by it in a semi-conscious condition. -Then he must have fallen asleep, probably about ten o'clock. The sleep -lasted about twelve hours, and was better than meat and drink. To most -men it would have ended in death. - -"When he woke up at ten o'clock on Wednesday morning, in broad daylight, -he soon saw that he had been sleeping quite near the path. A few -minutes' scramble brought him back to it, and he soon came to a little -wooden refreshment-house, about an hour below the Staffel Inn, which he -had passed in the darkness. He went up to the woman at the hut and asked -for some beer! He had only fifty centimes in his pocket; one of his dead -companions had held the purse. He volunteered no complaint; but the -woman was sympathetic, and soon found out whence he came. She then gave -him a little milk and some dry bread--all she had. After a short rest he -resumed his way to Zermatt, distant about half an hour, and reached the -village at 11.30. As he was walking down the main street past the church -he met his wife. - -"He told her simply what had happened. Then he had lunch. 'I was now -ravenous,' he says, 'and devoured a beefsteak, with the help of a glass -of whisky and soda, and a bottle of champagne.' Within an hour or two he -was entirely recovered." - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -A STIRRING DAY ON THE ROSETTA - - -Amongst the many rock scrambles in the neighbourhood of St Martino in -the Dolomites of Tyrol, the Rosetta when ascended by the western face -can be counted on to awaken an interest in the most stolid of climbers. -I am indebted to the courtesy of a girl friend for the loan of her -mountaineering diary, and permission to make extracts from its very -interesting contents, of which her account of an ascent of the Rosetta -will, I feel sure, be read with keen enjoyment by climbers and -non-climbers alike. That a young English girl on her first visit to the -mountains should carry out with such success so difficult an expedition, -is much to the credit of both herself and her guides. Her brother -accompanied her, and the climb took place on 10th August 1898. - -[Illustration: AMBROSE SUPERSAX. (P. 209.)] - -[Illustration: FROM THE ROSETTA. By Signor Vittorio Sella. - -_To face_ p. 182.] - -"A cautious bang at my door, a faint 'Si!' from me, and steps departing. -Then I lit a candle and dressed. But it was the critical moment when the -dawn comes quickly, and I blew it out in five minutes and watched the -blue light brighten on the dusky outlines of the white church and -houses. The Cimone was growing pink as I got on my heavy hob-nailed -boots, and, taking my tennis shoes also, I tramped softly down to -breakfast. Bettega, our leading guide, was there, with his cordial smile -and hand-shake, and G---- and Tavernaro soon appeared. We were off -before long, taking with us a porter in addition to the two guides, and -G---- and I let Bettega see plainly that we thought this a little -superfluous, but later on we were glad we had him. I must admit that I -never met such good-natured and thoughtful guides, nor such excellent -ones. After passing through forest, we had to ascend up steep shingle, -and as this steepened I reeled a little, my feet being not as yet well -used to this sort of work. Bettega, however, put his hand behind him, I -crooked my fingers into his, and that gave me all the balance I needed. -Finally we crossed some snow, and sitting on a little platform under a -towering rock, we perceived that the way we were to ascend the Rosetta -would be a very different experience to the climb by the ordinary route. - -"At this point I took off my skirt, and removed my boots, putting on -tennis shoes instead. The rubber soles of these are far safer than nails -on the smooth and slabby Dolomite rock. - -"The guides jabbered between themselves; Bettega smiled sublimely and -looked utterly in his element, but Tavernaro seemed rather subdued; he -is under the moral influence of Bettega, for though Tavernaro may have -more education and cleverness he rounds upon his comrade at times owing -to his excitable disposition. But on the mountains he slinks at -Bettega's elbow, as the two roll along with the peculiar mountaineer's -bending stride on level ground, and Tavernaro never asks a price or -arranges for an excursion without consulting Bettega. But, on the other -hand, Bettega lives in fear of Tavernaro's lively tongue, so it is about -balanced! - -"Having finished our meal, we set off. I was roped to Bettega, who led. -After about five minutes Bettega, who till then had held in his hand all -the rope we were not using, dropped it in a big coil, and told me to -'Remain firm' where I was. He then climbed upwards for a few minutes, -but I did not watch, for though my head had not swum at all as yet, I -wasn't too sure of it, and the rock face was very sheer, so I neither -looked up nor down, but sat with my cheek against the rock and held on! -But all went merrily. Tavernaro occasionally placed one of my feet, -which was placeless, and we got up the first _camino_, or rocky chimney, -fairly well. 'Wait a moment, signorina,' said Bettega, and then he -disappeared overhead--literally disappeared, for he was quite hidden -when he cried cheerily, 'Come! Come!' I got up, and found a very small -_posto_ or tiny platform on which to wait, with a disagreeably obtrusive -precipice below it. Above was a second _camino_, which looked smooth and -gloomy. I leant affectionately against the rock, pondering deeply of -anything except 'empty space.' 'The signorina is all right there?' -enquired Bettega solicitously. 'To be sure she is!' cried Tavernaro -gaily, as he leant over me against the rock. Then up clomb Bettega, and -G---- advanced slowly and surely from below. As the minutes went by I -shut my eyes, and was gloomily thankful when the summons came from -above. Looking up, I could just see Bettega's bushy black head and -flannel cap couched amongst the rocks. Fifteen feet up the _camino_ a -big stone was wedged, and between this and the back of the chimney one -had to pass, emerging above at the top of the wall. G---- having now -reached the _posto_, I began to go up, with Tavernaro closely following -me. Bit by bit I climbed; a grab, a hoist, a foot tucked into a crevice -on either side of the _camino_, a long reach with my arm, a steady -pull--and likewise, it must be confessed, a pull from the rope!--and so -up, up again. The rock wall was abominably straight and holeless. Under -the stone, with the three members placed on ledges or in cracks, I in -vain sought a point of rest for the fourth before hauling. 'Good -heavens!' I exclaimed in melancholy undertones, and a gurgling chuckle -from below showed that Tavernaro sympathised. 'Here you are, signorina,' -he said, giving me his shoulder for a momentary foot-hold. With that -instant of support I swung up on to the stone, and so to the next _posto -sicuro_, or safe spot. G---- came up without help, but he assured me -that it was a really hard place. - -"Of course I don't pretend I did it all myself. Quite half a dozen times -I doubt if I could have got up without material aid from the cord, or -from Tavernaro below. Once, in a _camino_, the latter gave me a butt -with his head, which made me reflect how great a man was lost to the -game of football, while the way he placed my feet was a great help to -one who, as a novice, had not yet learnt to study the foot-holds in -advance. - -"We now reached a place where a third _camino_ ran up above us, while an -awkward traverse led to another on the right. Here I heard Tavernaro -remonstrate with Bettega on the route he had taken, but the latter said, -very decidedly, that he intended going straight on, so Tavernaro, as -usual, subsided, but became very quiet. He had never before ascended -this _camino_, which was a discovery of Bettega's, but no doubt he had -heard about it. - -"We began to climb it, Bettega first and I following him closely. It -had rained heavily the previous day, and all the loose stones had been -washed to the very edge of the ledges. Not having been cautioned about -these, and intent on getting up, I let several fall. 'Hi! Gently with -the stones!' gasped Tavernaro from below, and when he reached my side I -saw that his knuckles were bleeding. 'Have you hurt yourself?' I -enquired. 'No, it is you who have done it, and you've twice nearly -killed your brother,' he replied, but G---- told me to tell Tavernaro he -had sent down a much worse stone than any of mine, whereat he looked -resigned, and remarked, 'Oh, yes, these things can't always be avoided.' - -"'Stay quietly where you are, and wait till I tell you to come on,' -Bettega now remarked. I crouched in a very narrow chimney for a little, -watched not--a hundred pities--and heard Bettega go up beyond. Not more -than three minutes elapsed before his deep voice sang out: 'Now, come -up!' and though I replied: 'I'm coming,' I wondered how I was to do it. -We were near the top of the chimney. Further up, it became too narrow -for any human form to squeeze into. One had therefore to come out of it -to the right and climb up and over a huge bulging mass of rock about 15 -feet high, which overhung the precipice. This mass of gently bulging -rock was worn smooth by rain and stones. There was no proper foot-hold, -hardly the tiniest crack. _How_ had Bettega managed it? I got up the -cold, damp chimney as far as I could, leant gasping against the rock, -and felt near the end of my courage. Tavernaro was stowed away yards -below, G---- also out of sight, Bettega invisible above. There was just -the cord, pulling me away from the inhospitable rocks, and at my very -heels an abyss of 2000 feet. I made one bold grab on the smooth wall, -but speedily retired to the end of the _camino_, and feebly yelled, -'Wait! Ah, I can't do it!' 'All right! Catch hold of this cord!' came -the answer, and a loop of rope was let slowly down. I seized it, -contrived to get one foot on to a tiny, weeny point, came out of the -chimney, and heard Bettega call, 'To the right, signorina!' 'To the -right; that's all very well!' I muttered fiercely, and felt my hand -slipping; my foot gave, my fingers ran down the rope, the cord round my -waist tightened, I pushed my arm through the loop of the free rope with -one last effort, and then finding no support of any kind for my feet, -was ignominiously pulled, kicking, up the precipice by Bettega, who, -firmly fixed with both feet against rocks, hauled me up most joyously -hand over hand. - -"'But, Michele, how did _you_ manage to get up?' I panted, as I sank on -a ledge, and gazed in awed admiration at him. 'Well, not like that, -signorina!' he said, with his honest laugh; 'I really came up by -pressure. There are no hand-grips, so you have to do without.' 'It's -marvellous! It's stupendous!' murmured I, really awed by the man's -power. Then we both listened for Tavernaro's coming, and a proper little -comedy, for us two at least, ensued. Of course one could see nothing, -the rock bulged too much, but one could hear Tavernaro's voice some 20 -feet below, as he groped about, swearing softly. Five minutes went by -and all was still, so Bettega began haranguing him. 'More to the right, -Tony; you must come out, don't go too high in the chimney!' Then--'Look -out, Tony, I'll send you the rope-end!' But an ominous '_No_,' quickly -answered this proposal. A guide's honour is very sensitive on this -point. Another three or four minutes passed. 'How is Tavernaro getting -on?' I whispered, and Bettega replied, smiling broadly, 'He wishes to -try.' - -"Some gasps from the direction of the chimney were now heard, and -Bettega again expostulated gently. 'Look here, Tony, we are old friends; -take the rope!' '_No_' in gloomy defiance. 'Oh, if we were alone it -would be different, but we must not keep the rest of the party waiting, -and the signorina may take cold.' This was all in _patois_, but I caught -some of it, and here struck in quickly, 'Oh, not at all!' Bettega looked -surprised, and resumed more energetically his exhortations to Tony to -pocket his pride and accept the loop of rope. At last Tony, who must -have been within 10 feet of the top and so at the worst spot, suddenly -jerked on to the proffered cord, and was up the next moment, hatless, -with huge beads of sweat on his forehead and his black hair as straight -as matches. There was a great rent in the side of one of his hands, -which bled profusely. What struck me most, however, was the expression -of suffering and shaken confidence on his face. Tavernaro ranks only -second to Bettega and Zecchini, and was asked to go to the Caucasus and -other distant mountains. He just stumbled to a safe spot, wrung his left -hand, and panted out, 'Jesu Maria! it was cruel!' I fear that Bettega's -smile was more triumphant than sympathetic. Nevertheless, he enquired -kindly for Tavernaro's hand, but for fully two minutes the latter's -loquaciousness was lost. The look of anguish on his face meant, I think, -that he had seen death pretty near to him. He told us that he went far -too much into the crack on the left, and had remained sticking in it -till his hands got so cold he feared he would lose his grip. If he had, -he was lost, and probably G---- also, so he had actually held on with his -head and left his cap jammed in the crack. I called to G---- to hook the -rope over a point of rock in case Tavernaro fell, and this he had done, -but even so the frightful jerk might have torn him down, and in any -case Tavernaro must have been either killed or frightfully hurt, as he -had, I should think, about 30 feet of rope out. - -"While I was in the throes of the difficult part, Papa's cap fell off my -head, but Tavernaro caught it and brought it up. He was in an awful -state of mind about his own cap, which had his guide's badge, etc., on -it, and begged me to call down to my brother about it. I did so, but -G---- replied several times with some asperity that he had enough to do -to get himself up. 'Why can't he bring it up in his mouth?' cried -Tavernaro excitedly, and, in the end, G---- brought it in his belt. - -"My opinion is that both G---- and Tavernaro ran a great risk, and that -Tavernaro was fully aware of it, and, for a few minutes after, was not a -little shaken. - -"After half an hour at this notable spot Bettega resumed the ascent. 'I -hope we shall have nothing more so difficult,' I said eagerly, and -Bettega replied soothingly that it became 'much less arduous,' but the -chimney we were now in was gloomy and slippery, at best very sheer. The -guides had resumed their coats, which they had taken off for the bad -bit. At the end of the chimney we came to a high overhanging wall, at -the foot of which Tavernaro and I reposed, while Bettega climbed over it -and disappeared. 'Come!' and I rose wearily. Bettega kept that cord -very tight on me, and it certainly, as Tavernaro afterwards said, -inclined to pull me to the right, away from the best holds, for the wall -was comparatively easy, though perpendicular, and I ought not to have -swung out quite free from it! But that is what I did. As I rose from the -second grip with the right hand, my muscles suddenly relaxed, I lost -hold, gave a sigh to signify 'It's no good!' and swung clear out, -dangling over 2000 feet of precipice on a single cord which nearly cut -me in two. G---- and Tavernaro were much excited below, suddenly seeing -me appear hurtling overhead. Of course, in a moment, I swung in again, -grabbed afresh, and with terrific tightening of the rope from Bettega, -got up in no time. As I swung in the air, I remember G----, in a -curiously calm voice, asking, 'Are you all right?' and Tavernaro crying, -'Don't be afraid, signorina, it's all right!' - -"Five minutes later we left the huge iron walls of rock, and emerged -suddenly on to the flat. Here one realised what breadth and width meant, -as opposed to height and profundity. In two seconds Bettega and I romped -to the top, where the cairn of stones marking the highest point rose, -and shaking hands heartily I gasped with intense feeling, 'O Michele, -how grateful I am to you! Twice to-day I owe you my life!' a debt he -utterly disclaimed, remarking that whatever he had done was merely in -the day's work, and that on him rested the responsibility of bringing us -up that way; as of course it did. Our porter was waiting for us on the -summit, and we sat down there, while Bettega and Tavernaro, still -looking impressed, knelt attentively to take off our light shoes and put -on our nailed boots instead." - -The party descended by the ordinary route, a pleasant change after all -the difficult work they had accomplished during the upward climb. - -The foregoing account gives what is rare amongst the descriptions -beginners usually furnish of anything particularly hard they may have -undertaken, for the writer has obviously jotted down, within a few hours -of her return, an exact impression of how things struck her during the -day. It is refreshing to find some one who admits that at certain points -her courage nearly gave out, and at others that her guide had to assist -her with the rope, for we know that while the very best climbers have -had to train their nerves and muscles before they became what they are, -some of the very worst are most ready to exclaim that they never felt -fear or accepted assistance, and that a certain mountain up which they -were heaved like sacks of corn and let down like buckets in a well is "a -perfect swindle; any fool could go up it!" Unluckily, every fool does, -and each one prepares the way for an appallingly increasing death-roll. - -The ascent of the Rosetta by the western face must not be condemned as -an imprudent expedition on the occasion just mentioned. True, there was -a novice in the party, but she was the only inexperienced member of it. -They had ample guiding power, they were properly equipped, and they had -good weather. Tavernaro had an offer of help at the critical moment, and -availed himself of it when he saw there was real danger. It will be -noticed that the four climbers were on two separate ropes. This is usual -in the Dolomites, but the majority of experienced mountaineers condemn -the practice even on rocks, while on snow it is positive madness. It was -owing to this, that, as related in the foregoing narrative, the lady's -brother and Tavernaro ran a greater risk than was at all necessary. - -[Illustration: A CLIMBING PARTY STARTING FROM ZERMATT FOR THE HUT.] - -[Illustration: THE TRIFT HOTEL.] - -[Illustration: THE GANDEGG HUT, NEAR ZERMATT.] - -[Illustration: THE ZINAL ROTHHORN (to the right) FROM THE TRIFT VALLEY. - -_To face p. 195._] - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -THE ZINAL ROTHHORN TWICE IN ONE DAY - - -Ignorance of what the future has in store is often not a bad thing. Had -I realised that at the hour when we ought to have been at Zinal we -should be sitting--and for the second time in one day--on the top of the -Rothhorn, we should hardly have set out in so light-hearted a fashion -from the little inn in the Trift Valley, above Zermatt, at 4 A.M. on -14th September 1895. - -The party consisted of my two guides, Joseph and Roman Imboden, father -and son, and myself, and our idea was to cross the fine peak of the -Rothhorn, 13,855 feet high, from Zermatt to Zinal. I had been up that -mountain before, and so, on many previous occasions, had Imboden, but, -oddly enough, he had never been down the other side. Roman, however, had -once or twice made the traverse, and, in any case, we knew quite enough -about the route from hearsay to feel sure we could hit it off even -without Roman's experience. - -Some fresh snow had fallen a few days previously, and the slabby part -of the Rothhorn on the north side was unpleasantly white, besides which -there was a strong and bitterly cold wind. We pretty well abandoned all -idea of getting down on the other side when we saw how unfavourably -things were turning out, and though I felt greatly disappointed I never -have and never would urge a guide in whom I have confidence to undertake -what he considers imprudent. We left the matter open till the last -minute, however, and took both the knapsacks to the top, where we -arrived at 9.15. - -Warming ourselves in a sunny and sheltered corner of the by no means -inhospitable summit, we had some food and a pleasant rest. I cannot say -if the meal and the cheering effects of the sunshine made things look -different, but it is a fact that after, perhaps, an hour's halt, Imboden -shouldered his knapsack and remarked to me, "Come along, ma'am, as far -as the end of the ridge; we will just have a look." Hope awakened in me, -and scrambling to my feet I followed him. The wind was certainly high; I -had difficulty even on those easy rocks in keeping my footing; how, I -wondered, should we manage when the real climbing began? I had read of -an _arte_ of rock, little broader than one of the blunt knives we had -used at breakfast, and the idea of passing along it with a shrieking -gale trying to tear us from our perch was not alluring. Presently we -reached the spot where one quits the gentle slope and comparatively -broad ridge, and embarks on the profile of a slender and precipitous -face of rock, with nearly vertical forehead and small and infrequent -cracks for hands and feet. We were going to do more than look at it, -apparently; we were about to descend it, for without any further remark -Imboden began to get ready, letting Roman pass ahead. Taking hold of the -rope between his son and himself he told me to stand aside while he -gradually paid it out as Roman went down. The first yard or two -consisted of slabs, set at a high angle. Then the ridge abruptly curved -over and one saw nothing but air till the eye rested on the glacier -thousands of feet below. In a few minutes Roman had disappeared, and the -steady paying out of the rope alone indicated that he was climbing -downwards. After a time he reached almost the end of his tether of about -30 feet--for we were on a very long rope--and his father called out, -"Rope up!" "Let the lady come to the edge and give me a little more," -came a voice from far down. Putting the final loop into my hand and -bidding me sit down, Imboden held me hard by the cord behind until the -tautness of the piece between Roman and me showed it was time to be -moving. I then advanced very cautiously to what seemed like the edge of -the world. Turning round with my face to the rock I had my first glance -below. Far down was the top of Roman's hat, and as he saw the advancing -soles of my boots he grinned with appreciation, feeling that now we -really were embarked on the enterprise. "There's a good place down here, -ma'am, come along!" he called up, with one toe on a ledge 3 inches wide, -two fingers thrust into a crack, and the rope held out of his way by -being put, the remark concluded, between his teeth. I had no doubt it -was a nice place when one got there, but meanwhile I had to make the -best use I could of my eyes to find a suitable assortment of hand-and -foot-holes. Soon I, too, was clinging to the face of the precipice, and -Imboden was left above out of sight and before long almost out of -hearing. The wind here was far less trying as we were sheltered by the -topmost pinnacle of the mountain. To me the feeling of danger from a -gale on a rock peak is due even more to the difficulty of hearing what -one's companions are saying than to the risk of one's balance being -upset. It is extremely disconcerting, when a climber, descending steep -rocks and anxious to make a long but perhaps an easy step downwards to -good foot-hold, calls for more rope, and is promptly swung clear out -into space by an invisible guide above, who has misunderstood his -orders. When a party is accustomed to work together, this sort of thing -seldom happens, still it makes all the difference in the pleasure of -negotiating difficult rocks if the air is calm. - -Our only trouble now was owing to the fresh snow, but this had partially -consolidated, and we got down steadily and safely, gradually leaving -behind the cold wind which whistled amongst the crags above. - -It was early in the day, and we went slowly, stopping once or twice to -photograph where warm and sheltered resting-places of comfortable -proportions tempted us to linger. The rocky knife edge was unpleasantly -sharp for the arms bent over it, but useful ledges down the side helped -to distribute the weight and amuse and occupy the mind. When finally we -reached the end of the rocks, and had nothing but snow between us and -the Mountet Hut, we considered ourselves as good as there, and made a -long halt on the last stones. - -We were wrong, however. "My boy, I will go ahead now," remarked Imboden, -stepping off into the snow. He went a few paces, and then looked first -all round him and lastly at us. "_Blue ice!_" he muttered, with intense -disgust. "Blue ice right down to the bottom!" We shrugged our shoulders; -Imboden was ahead doing the work; we could afford to be philosophical. I -should not like to say how many strokes of the axe each step required, -but the slope was steep, a slip could not be risked, and Imboden hewed -out great foot-holds in the slippery wall. After this had gone on for -some time he paused. "Upon my word," remarked he, "it will take us the -rest of the day to get down at this rate! I shall try another way." So -we turned and remounted the slope, and sitting down once more on the -stones, Imboden traced out a possible route down the face of the -mountain, bearing diagonally across it. It looked dullish; besides, -thought I, after all, we don't particularly want to go to Zinal. Roman -put into words what, I think, sprung simultaneously into both our minds. -"Let us go back to Zermatt over the top of the Rothhorn again!" "Yes, -let us do that!" I exclaimed. Imboden gazed from one to the other of us -in amazement. "Go back over the top of the Rothhorn?" he repeated. "Why, -we should simply be out all night!" Roman didn't answer, but his eyes -wandered persistently up the _arte_. His father now began to calculate, -and by some strange process of arithmetic he came to the conclusion that -if we hurried very much it was just possible that we might get off the -difficult part of the peak before night overtook us. Still, he was far -from reconciled to the idea, while every moment Roman and I liked it -better. Imboden saw how keen we were, and presently exclaimed: "Well, -I'll go if you both want it, but we must be quick; if we spend the night -on the top of the Rothhorn and a storm comes on, we may simply lose our -lives!" There was no need however, to tell Roman to be quick. He was -told off to lead, and I followed, with Imboden last. The memory of that -ascent has remained in my mind as a confused dream. Every scrap of my -attention was given to holding on and pulling myself upwards, never -pausing, except in the very worst places, to see what either of the -guides was doing, and, with every foot-and hand-hold fresh in my memory, -I was full of a delightful sense of security which muscles in -first-class condition and complete absence of any sensation of fatigue -fully justified. We rose at an incredible pace, and after an hour and -twenty-five minutes of splendid exercise, we threw ourselves once more -on the flat little top of the Rothhorn. We had now only the descent by -the ordinary route between us and Zermatt, and this seemed a small -matter compared to what we had accomplished that day. - -We did not remain long on the summit, and the first part of the descent -was quickly ended. We had now reached that point on the mountain where -it is necessary to leave the ridge and go down for some distance on the -precipitous north face. This bit of the climb, always requiring great -care on account of the smoothness and steepness of the rock, was on this -occasion particularly difficult because of the powdery snow which -covered everything, and the bitterly cold wind to which here, and, -luckily for us, here only, we were exposed. The associations of these -slabs are not of a nature to reassure the timid climber. Many years ago, -in fact on the very first occasion when the Rothhorn was ascended from -the Zermatt side, a startling incident took place near this spot. The -party consisted of Messrs Dent and Passingham, with Alexander Burgener, -Ferdinand Imseng, and Franz Andermatten as guides, and they were -descending the mountain when the exciting occurrence described by Mr -Dent happened.[7] He has kindly allowed me to reprint his account. - -[Illustration: THE ZINAL ROTHHORN FROM THE BREAKFAST PLACE ON THE -WELLENKUPPE.] - -[Illustration: A STEEP FACE OF ROCK. - -_To face p. 202._] - -[Illustration: THE TOP OF A CHAMONIX AIGUILLE. By Signor Cajrati -Crivelli Mesmer] - -[Illustration: "LEADING STRINGS."] - -"Down the first portion of the steep rock slope we passed with great -caution, some of the blocks of stone being treacherously loose, or only -lightly frozen to the face. We had arrived at the most difficult part of -the whole climb, and at a rock passage which at that time we considered -was the nastiest we had ever encountered. The smooth, almost unbroken -face of the slope scarcely afforded any foot-hold, and our security -almost entirely depended on the rope we had laid down in our ascent. Had -not the rope been in position we should have varied our route, and no -doubt found a line of descent over this part much easier than the one we -actually made for, even without any help from the fixed cord. Imseng was -far below, working his way back to the _arte_, while the rest of the -party were holding on, moving but slowly, with their faces to the -mountain. Suddenly I heard a shout from above; those below glanced up at -once: a large flat slab of rock, that had afforded us good hold in -ascending, but proved now to have been only frozen in to a shallow basin -of ice, had been dislodged by the slightest touch from one of the party -above, and was sliding down straight at us. It seemed an age, though the -stone could not have had to fall more than 10 feet or so, before it -reached us. Just above me it turned its course slightly; Franz, who was -just below, more in its direct line of descent, attempted to stop the -mass, but it ground his hands against the rock and swept by straight at -Imseng. A yell from us hardly awoke him to the danger; the slab slid on -faster and faster, but just as we expected to see our guide swept away, -the rock gave a bound for the first time, and as, with a startled -expression, he flung himself against the rock face, it leapt up, and, -flying by within a few inches of his head, thundered down below. A -moment or two of silence followed, and then a modified cheer from -Imseng, as subdued as that of a 'super' welcoming a theatrical king, -announced his safety, and he looked up at us with a serious expression -on his face. Franz's escape had been a remarkably lucky one, but his -hands were badly cut about and bruised. In fact, it was a near thing for -all of us, and the mere recollection will still call up that odd sort of -thrill a man experiences on suddenly recollecting at 11 P.M. that he -ought to have dined out that evening with some very particular people. -Had not the rock turned its course just before it reached Franz, and -bounded from the face of the mountain over Imseng's head, one or more of -the party must unquestionably have been swept away. The place was rather -an exceptional one, and the rock glided a remarkably long distance -without a bound, but still the incident may serve to show that falling -stones are not a wholly imaginary danger." - -A far more serious occurrence, however, took place on the north side of -the Rothhorn in 1894, involving the loss of a life, the rest of the -party escaping in a miraculous manner. - -I take my account of the disaster from _The Alpine Journal_. - -"On 20th September an accident occurred on the Zinal Rothhorn, in which -Joseph Marie Biner, a well-known Zermatt guide, lost his life. The other -members of the party were Dr Peter Horrocks and Peter Perren, both of -whom are to be congratulated on their very narrow escape. The party had -already effected the ascent of the mountain, and were descending towards -Zermatt. On reaching the well-known _Blatte_ overlooking the Durand -Glacier, the usual precautions were observed. Biner, who was leading, -crossed the awkward slab, and planted himself firmly on the opposite -side. Perren, who was last, was standing behind and holding on to a -fair-sized rock, round which he was paying out the rope; while Dr -Horrocks crossed the slab, and Biner gradually pulled in the slack. -Suddenly, the rock in which Perren placed such confidence came out, and -bounded down the mountain side. Perren slid rapidly down the steep -rocks; Dr Horrocks, who had no foot-hold and very little hand-hold, was -jerked from his position, turning a somersault, and becoming momentarily -stunned from his head striking against the rock. The strain on the rope -was too great for Biner to withstand, and he was dragged down too. The -whole party half tumbled, half slid, down the very steep smooth rocks -for 30 feet or 40 feet, when the rope between Dr Horrocks and Perren -caught behind a projecting rock, and brought them both to a standstill. -Perren found himself landed in a small patch of soft snow some 15 feet -below the rock, which had so fortunately engaged the rope, while Dr -Horrocks, some 7 feet higher up, though at first suspended with his back -to the steep rocks, was very soon able to get more or less foot-hold. -Poor Biner had the extra length of his own rope still to fall, and, when -the strain came, the rope broke, according to one account, half-way -between him and Dr Horrocks; according to another, rather nearer to the -latter. Biner fell down on to the Durand Glacier, some 2000 feet below, -whence his mutilated body was recovered by a search party which crossed -the Trift Pass, carried the body down to Zinal, and so by road and train -brought it to Zermatt, where the funeral took place. Dr Horrocks and -Perren were rescued from their dangerous position some ten or twelve -minutes after the accident occurred, by the guides Emile Gentinetta and -Edouard Julen, who were following down the mountain with another party." - -To return to ourselves. We steadily progressed down the cold and snowy -face, with rope kept taut and paid out slowly as, one by one, we moved -lower. I need not follow our climb, which was without incident, and -while it was still daylight, we reached the snow ridge, on the stones -just below, which in ascending it is usual to pause for breakfast. We -were particularly anxious to be off the stony rocks below and to gain -the little glacier and pass over the moraine before dark, but this we -could not manage, so in spite of our lantern we wandered about on those -odious rocks for hours before we found the gully by which alone it is -possible to get off them. Our various attempts entailed the descent of -slippery chimneys leading to the top of black precipices, with nothing -to be done but scramble up again, merely to embark in other chimneys -with precisely similar consequences. I got so sick of the whole thing -that I would gladly have dozed under a rock and awaited daylight. The -guides, however, stuck to the business, and after a positive nightmare -of gullies they at last hit off the right and only one. I have seldom -felt greater satisfaction than when I stepped off those detestable rocks -on to the snow, shimmering beneath our feet in the starlight. We had now -only to cross the glacier and make our way down an exceedingly steep but -well-defined foot-path over the sharply-crested moraine. Once we had -left this behind us we had nothing more than grass-slopes between us and -the Trift Inn. As soon as we reached this final stage in our day's work, -we selected the most comfortable-looking hollow, and hanging the lantern -to an axe stuck upright in the ground, we prepared, at a somewhat -unorthodox hour and within only thirty minutes of the hotel, to enjoy a -well-earned meal. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -BENIGHTED ON A SNOW PEAK - - -In a most interesting account of a mountain adventure which, by the -courtesy of the writer, Sir H. Seymour King, I am enabled to reprint -from _The Alpine Journal_, we are once more reminded that a party of -thoroughly competent and robust mountaineers can come without evil -after-effects out of a night of great hardship which would have -undoubtedly proved fatal to ill-equipped and inexperienced amateurs and -guides, such as those accompanying Mr Burckhardt, who perished from -exposure on the Matterhorn.[8] - -After describing a previous ascent, Sir H. Seymour King goes on to say: - -"A few days later we went to Mrren, with the intention of carrying out -a long-cherished plan of mine and testing the possibility of ascending -the Silberhorn from the Roththal. Previous ascents had proved so -lengthy, necessitating, I think, in nearly every case, the passing of a -night on the rocks or the glacier, that I thought it would be highly -desirable if some shorter route could be discovered. I had an idea that -the route by the western _arte_ would prove to be the one sought for. -Unfortunately, we were delayed in making an attempt by bad weather until -the 23rd of September, which is undoubtedly too late in the year for so -difficult an expedition. - -"I left the Htel Silberhorn with Ambrose Supersax and Louis Zurbrcken -as guides, and a porter, at ten o'clock on the morning of the 23rd of -September, and followed for some distance the usual path to the Jungfrau -Hut; at length, leaving the Roththal path on the right, we struck off -into a goat track, which leads by narrow ledges round the shoulder of -the great bluffs forming the northern boundary of the Roththal. In this -way gaining the face of the alp fronting Mrren, we made our way to the -base of the 'Strahlplatten,' where we had determined to encamp for the -night. - -"The nights were already lengthening out, and where we were it was not -light before six, and it was not possible to move earlier than five; -punctually at that hour we started. We took only one knapsack with us, -leaving the rest of the things with the porter, whom we instructed to -stay where he was until he saw whether we were going to return the same -way or not, as we thought it was quite possible we might have to pass -another night at the same place. We therefore arranged with him that -when we got to a certain point on the ridge, if we intended to return, -we would wave our hats; but if we made no sign, he might pack up his -things and go home, as in that case he might understand that we had -determined either to descend from the Silberhorn across the glacier to -the Wengern Alp, or else make our way over the Jungfrau, and pass the -night in the Bergli Hut. - -"Now let me try for a moment to describe the appearance of the rock face -up which we purposed making our way on to the _arte_. From where we -were the _arte_ appeared to run nearly due east and west. At the west -it terminated in the precipices which face Mrren, and at the east with -the peak whence we had arranged to signal to our porter. From this peak -a ridge descended towards the valley bounding the side facing us. On -that side the rock face itself was divided into two compartments by a -well-marked ridge running down the middle, giving the appearance of two -couloirs leading to the _arte_; the whole side was composed of -extremely smooth rocks, with very little foot-hold or hand-hold which -would be extremely dangerous, if not impossible, to attempt, if they -were not dry. Fortunately, we found them perfectly free from either -water or ice, and, with the exception of one difficult piece, which it -took us some little time to surmount, we found nothing to check us -until we were just under the _arte_. We ascended by the right-hand -couloir, if I may so term it, and then made for the gap on the ridge at -the extreme westerly end. Just below this gap we experienced some -difficulty, owing to the excessive smoothness of the rocks, but finally -reached the gap I have mentioned a little before nine. - -"I need not say that our hopes rose high, and that we were in the very -best of spirits, and when we finally stood in the gap itself we began to -think the worst part of the work was over. We soon found, however, that -it had hardly begun; it was all very well being in the gap, but the -problem was how to get from there on to the _arte_ itself; for, though -the latter was not more than 20 feet above us, the peculiar formation of -the rocks rendered every attempt to get on to it fruitless. The rocks -hung over on every side. We exhausted ourselves in vain attempts to -surmount them. An hour soon passed away, and after each of us in turn -had failed, we sat down disconsolately to consider the situation under -the lee of the ridge, so as to be out of the way of the biting north -wind which was blowing. Looking round as we sat mournfully consuming -some breakfast, I spied a bottle in a crevice, and found it contained -the names of Mr C. E. Matthews and Herr E. von Fellenberg, with -Melchior Anderegg and two other guides; it was undated, but recounted -how they had reached this spot and had been obliged to return without -achieving their object, which apparently was identical with our own. -This was the last straw, and exasperated Ambrose to the highest degree. -That we should have gone through so much only to have gained the same -spot where another party several years before had arrived was too much -for his equanimity. He vowed he would never go back, and nothing under -heaven should turn him back, he would get on to the ridge. We might do -as we liked, he meant to stay there until he had. All of which I pointed -out to him was very fine talk, but, as men were at present constructed, -it did not appear to me possible to climb an acute angle. Ambrose, -however, persisted that he would make another attempt to get on to the -ridge, and, as it was quite hopeless anywhere on the side by which we -had ascended, he roped himself, and insisted on being let down the -northern face of the mountain. - -"With great skill he managed to work himself along the face for the full -length of the rope, and the first 100 feet being exhausted, a second of -80 feet was tied to it, and this again paid out to its utmost length; -still he could find no way up to the ridge. He thereupon demanded that -the rope should be let go, and, in spite of our remonstrances at the -danger he was running, he pulled it in, slung it on his back, and -proceeded, while we sat down and waited with no little anxiety lest some -accident should befall him. - -"For half an hour we neither saw nor heard anything of him, and our -shouts remained unanswered. Zurbrcken muttered at intervals something -about 'Dummheit,' and was evidently very uneasy. Suddenly we heard a -shout from above, which told us he had succeeded in ascending the wall -above him, and getting on to the ridge, down which he was actually -coming at the moment, and the next minute he was peering over the point -where we had been stuck. - -"It was really a magnificent exhibition both of pluck and skill, and -Ambrose deserves the highest credit for his success. Letting the rope -over, and fastening it well to a piece of rock, he first hauled up the -ice axes and knapsacks, and then we each in turn were half hauled, and -half climbed to the place where he stood. I know when I arrived at the -top I was nearly speechless from the terrible exertion it was necessary -to make, and the pressure of the rope on my ribs; I could only lie on my -back and gasp feebly for brandy! - -"However, it was imperative to proceed; more than two hours had been -wasted here, and it was nearly eleven o'clock. The way in front of us -looked fairly plain and easy, and our hopes once again began to rise; -but soon, as we proceeded along the ridge, it became narrower and -narrower, until from walking we were reduced to kneeling, and at last -could only proceed _ cheval_; in this elegant position we struggled -along for some little distance, until the _arte_ widening out again -permitted us once more to stand up; but here we found the rocks much -more difficult, and finally absolutely impossible. At the foot of the -peak at the easterly end of the ridge which I have before mentioned we -were forced off the _arte_ on to a wall of ice which led to the summit; -the slope was at a very sharp angle, the ice very hard and blue, and at -last became so steep that we were forced back on to the rocks, and with -some considerable difficulty reached the summit; from there we could see -the Silberhorn in front of us jutting out like a great white promontory -into a frozen sea. It being then one o'clock, we saw there was no -possibility of our getting back the same way that evening, so we made no -sign to our porter, whom we could see watching us far down below. - -"The formation of the ridge here is somewhat curious. After a slight -descent it broadens out into a small and much crevassed glacier, shut in -on the further side by a level snow wall, the promontory which I have -mentioned above. The _arte_ of this wall appears to run level from the -rock ridge to its northern termination; indeed, I am of opinion that the -highest point is on the rock ridge itself, and that the extreme end of -the ridge facing the Wengern Alp is a few feet lower than the rocks -overlooking the Roththal. - -"We speedily crossed the little intervening glacier, or snow-field, and -commenced to ascend diagonally the snow wall, but found the snow in such -a dangerous condition, lying as it was loosely on the surface of ice, -that from the fear of starting an avalanche we once more made our way -back to the ridge which formed the continuation of the _arte_ along -which we had been climbing. Here the rocks were extremely difficult, -being interspersed with ice and very rotten. I think this was one of the -most difficult parts of the expedition. It was half-past three when we -reached the final summit, and then made our way along the snow ridge -nearly to its extremity. The snow _arte_ was very narrow, and in its -then condition not very pleasant to traverse; the day too was far -advanced, and we had no time to spend in much exploration, so we -returned as quickly as we could to the ridge which leads down to the -Silberlcke; we were already getting very doubtful as to whether we -should get any shelter for the night. We had reached the narrow rock -_arte_ joining the Silberhorn with the precipices of the Jungfrau; in -the middle was the narrow gap called the Silberlcke, and to that we -crawled down and halted a moment to consider whether it would not be -better to descend on to the glacier and strike across to the Wengern -Alp; but we knew from the results of previous expeditions that crossing -the glacier would probably take four, if not five hours. None of us had -ever been across it; it was then four o'clock, and it would be dark at -six. Our only hope lay in getting across the Jungfrau before the -daylight finally died out. In the gap we found a ladder left by some -previous explorer, and two or three pieces of wood; and after debating -whether we had not better pass the night there, finally decided to push -on for the Jungfrau. - -"Our chance of escaping a night in the open air depended mainly on two -points: first, whether the snow leading to the Jungfrau was in fairly -good condition; and, secondly, whether anybody whose steps we could make -use of for descending had been on the mountain that day. A few minutes -settled the first question; we found that the slopes leading up to the -upper snow-field which circles round the base of the Jungfrau were hard -as ice, and we were soon laboriously cutting steps upwards. We pushed on -with all speed, but step-cutting is at the best a slow operation, and -before we got into the Roththal track the lengthening shadows had almost -overtaken us. We hurried on and managed to get across the _bergschrund_ -before the last rays of sunlight left the summit of the Jungfrau. As we -surmounted the final rocks I turned for a minute to look across -Switzerland, and was rewarded by one of the most beautiful spectacles it -has ever been my good fortune to witness. The valleys were filled with -mist, but the setting sun tinged their surface with a deep crimson glow; -the last rays were still lingering round Mont Blanc and one or two of -the higher mountains; where we stood was still filled with golden light -from the last rays of the sinking sun. The sky was perfectly clear, and -the panorama which unrolled itself before our eyes with its mingled -light and shadow was one of the most wonderful that lover of mountain -scenery could desire to gaze on. A justification for the erection of a -hut on the summit of the Jungfrau might almost be found in the -possibility of obtaining such a view. - -"But we had no time for indulging in rhapsodies; a bitter north wind was -still blowing so keenly, that the upper leather of our boots had frozen -stiff as boards while we walked. The moon was well up, and if only our -second hope were realised, and some one had been on the mountain that -day, we might find a refuge from the wind in the Bergli or Concordia -Huts. We tumbled rather than scrambled down the rocks by the flickering -moonlight, until we reached the well-known point where it is necessary -to strike across the face just above the Roththal Sattel. Our last hope -was dashed to the ground. No one had been there that day, and if we were -to get down it must be by our own efforts. So Ambrose at once set to -work to cut steps across the face. We had been there a fortnight before, -and gone up and down the Jungfrau without cutting hardly a step; now the -face was all blue ice, and in five minutes I made up my mind that the -risk of such a descent was too much to take. - -"The wall above the great _bergschrund_ was in shadow, the _bergschrund_ -last year was especially formidable, and we were all too exhausted -safely to face the freezing wind on such a steep ice-slope in the dark. -We returned, therefore, to the rocks, and, after a brief consultation, -decided to pass the night there as best we could. We managed to find a -corner shut in on two sides by rock about 5 feet high, from the floor of -which we set to work to rake out the snow with our axes. The snow had -drifted to a considerable depth, and its excavation gave us a good -quantity of heat to start the night with, but our boots refused to thaw, -and do what we would our feet would not get warm. - -"Our provisions being nearly exhausted, we agreed only to take a -mouthful of brandy and a little bread that night, and keep the bulk of -the provisions until next morning, when we expected to be in a more or -less exhausted condition, as the cold was very great, and it was obvious -that we had a pretty severe ordeal before us. It was by this time -half-past seven o'clock. We put on our gloves and gaiters, buttoned up -our coats, and after making a seat apiece out of three smooth stones, -sat down as close together as we could, and commenced to smoke. - -"The night was beautifully clear, but far away to the south we could see -a great thunderstorm raging over the Italian hills, and were in no -little trepidation lest it should be coming up in our direction, as -indeed a storm had done in exactly a similar way a week before; but the -north wind kept it at bay, and we luckily had not a snow-storm to face -in addition to the other discomforts. - -"The night passed slowly enough; it was necessary to keep shuffling our -feet and beating our arms together the whole night long without -cessation, in order to prevent being frost-bitten, and it was even more -difficult to keep awake. The hours, however, passed somehow, and at -half-past four the first primrose streaks in the sky heralded the coming -day. By five o'clock the welcome face of the sun peeped over the -Trugberg, and we began to prepare for a start. - -"Our first thought was breakfast, but this solace was denied us; the -wine and brandy had frozen during the night, and were solid lumps of -ice; the bread required nothing less than an ice-axe to cut it, and then -probably would have flown into chips like a log of wood; the three -remaining eggs we possessed had been converted during the night into -icicles; there was nothing for it, therefore, but to start hungry and -thirsty. Ambrose proposed that he and Zurbrcken should first cut the -steps, and then come back for me, but after a very few minutes' exposure -to the wind they were obliged to return and wait until the sun had -warmed them a little, the biting cold of the night and exhaustion from -want of sleep rendered it impossible to face the work of step-cutting in -such a bitter wind. We resumed our seats, therefore, and waited another -hour, and then commenced our descent to the _bergschrund_. We had to cut -steps the whole way down, and very glad I was we had not attempted it in -the dark, as I think it would have been almost impossible to get over -without an accident. - -"We pushed on steadily, but the night had taken all the spurt out of us, -and our progress across the Jungfrau Firn was not very rapid. We hoped -to find water under the Mnch Joch, where we had found a good supply a -fortnight previously, but the wind had prevented the snow melting at the -time we reached the spot, and there was nothing for it but to press on -to Grindelwald, and it was not until we reached the end of the Viescher -Glacier that we found any water to drink. At the Bregg we got some -ginger nuts to eat, and by three o'clock in the afternoon were being -hospitably welcomed by the Bosses at the 'Br,' whose welcome was never -more appreciated. These estimable hosts soon had an excellent dinner -ready, and by half-past four I was driving to Interlaken to rejoin the -rest of my party." - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -THE STORY OF A BIG JUMP - - -Through the kindness of Dr Kennedy, I am enabled to reprint from his new -edition of _The Alps in 1864_, by the late Mr A. W. Moore, an admirable -account of the first passage of the Col de la Pilatte in Dauphin. This -expedition has become classical, thanks to Mr Whymper's fine description -of it,[9] so it is interesting to read what impression the adventures of -the day made on another member of the party. The first part of the -expedition was easy, but, wrote Mr Moore, "before getting near the foot -of the couloir, we had something to do in threading a way up and through -the huge chasms into which the glacier was broken. Croz was here -thoroughly in his element, and led the way with great skill and -determination, passing one obstacle after another, and bearing gradually -to the left towards the enemy. At every step we took, it became more -apparent that nature had never intended any one to pass this way, and -had accordingly taken more than usual pains to render the approach to -the couloir difficult and dangerous. Below the highest _bergschrund_ -were a series of smaller ones, arranged systematically one above the -other, stretching completely across a very steep slope, so that they -could not be turned, but must each in succession be attacked _en face_. -Fortunately at this early period of the season, and with so much snow, -the difficulty was less considerable than it would have been under other -circumstances, and, exercising every precaution, we finally passed the -last of the outer lines of defence, and had nothing but a short steep -slope between us and the final _schrund_, above which the couloir rose -more unfriendly than ever, as we approached it nearer. I had been sorely -puzzled in my mind how we were going to get across this chasm, as from -below it appeared to have a uniform width of about 10 feet, the upper -edge, as usual, much higher than the lower, and no visible bridge at any -point. On getting up to it, however, we found that on the extreme right -it had been choked by a considerable mass of snow, the small remains of -which at one point formed a narrow, rotten, and most insecure bridge, -over which Croz cautiously passed, and made himself firm in the soft -snow above. Walker, Whymper, Mons. Renaud, myself, and Almer, then -followed, as if we were treading on eggs, and all got safely over, much -to our relief, as there really appeared no small chance of the bridge -going to grief before we were all across, which would have been awkward -for those on the wrong side. - -"It was just 9.30 when we fairly took to this extraordinary gully, -which, above the _bergschrund_ was certainly not more than 12 feet wide, -and gradually narrowed in its upward course. For the first few steps we -trod in a sufficiency of soft snow in good condition, but, to our -dismay, this soon sensibly diminished both in quantity and quality, -until at last there was nothing but the old, disgusting, powdery snow -resting on hard ice. The axe accordingly came into play; but if steps -were cut of the ordinary size, we should never get to the top till -night, so Croz just hacked out sufficient space for the feet to cling -to, and worked away as fast as possible, cautioning us emphatically to -look out, and to hold on well with our axes while each step was being -cut. Another argument in favour of rapid progress arose from the -palpable danger in which we were. The centre of the couloir was occupied -by a deeply-scored trough, evidently a channel for stones and -avalanches, while the space on either side was so narrow that in case of -a large fall we could scarcely expect to escape unharmed. Looking up to -see what was likely to come down, we discovered at the very head of the -couloir a perpendicular or slightly overhanging wall of _nv_, some 30 -feet in height, and lower down, projecting over the rocks on our left, -an enormous mass of icicles, on which the sun was playing, and, of -course, momentarily loosening their tenure to the rocks. At the moment -we were exactly in the line which they must follow, if they fell, as -they evidently would before long, so we lost no time in crossing the -stone channel to the other side, where the great mass was scarcely -likely to come, and we might probably ward off any stray fragments. I -received a lively hint as to the effect of a _large_ mass of ice coming -suddenly down on one's head, by the effect of a blow from a -comparatively small piece, which Croz hewed out from one of the steps. -Being so far down in the line, it had time to gain momentum before it -struck me, which it did on the head with such violence that for a few -moments I felt quite sick and stupid. The incident will give a very good -idea of the steepness of the slope on which we were. I had too much to -think of to measure it with a clinometer, but it was certainly steeper -than any part of the couloir leading to the Col des Ecrins, the greatest -inclination of which was 54. At one point a little water trickled over -the rocks, which the two front men managed to get a suck at, but those -behind were out of reach, and the footing was too precarious for more -than a minute's halt, not to mention occasional volleys of small stones -which shot by us, and might be the precursors of large ones. I don't -think that I ever experienced a greater feeling of insecurity than -during the whole of this ascent, which was unavoidably long. What with -the extreme steepness of the slope, and the necessary vagueness of the -steps, which were made additionally unsafe by the powdery snow which -filled them up as soon as they were cut, I felt that a slip was a by no -means unlikely contingency, and was glad enough upon occasions to find -Almer's hand behind, giving me a friendly push whenever a particularly -long stride had to be made. When we were nearing the top, our attention -was attracted by a tremendous uproar behind us, and, looking round, we -were just in time to see a prodigious avalanche falling over the cliffs -of the Pic de Bonvoisin, on the other side of the valley. It was at -least a quarter of a mile in length, and many minutes elapsed before the -last echoes of its fall died away. We were now so near the great -snow-wall that it was time to begin to circumvent it; so, crossing the -couloir again, we clambered up the rocks on that side in order to get -out of it, hoping to be able from them to get on to the main ridge to -the left of the wall, which itself was quite impassable. As Almer had -expected, the snow was here very thin over the rocks, and what little -there was, was converted into ice, so that the climbing was most -difficult and perilous, and we had no small trouble to get on at all. -However, we managed to scramble up, and found ourselves overlooking a -gully running parallel, and of a similar character, to the one we had -been ascending, but free from snow and ice, and much more precipitous. -On our side it was quite impossible to get on to the main ridge as an -impracticable rock rose above our heads, and it was, therefore, -necessary to step across this second couloir. I never made a nastier -step; the stride was exceedingly long, there was nothing in particular -to stand on, and nothing at all but a smooth face of rock to hold on by, -so that we had literally to trust to the natural adhesiveness of our -hands. Fortunately, there was sufficient rope to allow the man in front -to cross and get on to the main ridge, and make himself fast before his -successor followed, so we attacked the difficulty in turn. I got over -somehow, but did not like it at all; lifted myself on to the ridge, -Almer followed, and at 10.45 A.M., the Col was gained. - -"During our ascent of the couloir, the weather, though doubtful, had not -been unfavourable, but, just as we got on to the ridge, a cloud swooped -down, and enveloped us in its dense folds, and at the same moment it -began to snow violently. Luckily Croz, who was first on the top, had -been able to satisfy himself that we _were_ above the Glacier de la -Pilatte, and got a glimpse of what lay between us and it; but the state -of the atmosphere was, nevertheless, sufficiently disappointing, as we -were unable to fix with accuracy the exact position of our gap with -reference to the peak of Les Bans, and the highest point of the Boeufs -Rouges, or to determine its height. From the Brche de la Meije, we had -seen clearly that we were then considerably lower than any point on the -ridge south of the Glacier de la Pilatte, and, taking this into -consideration, together with the apparent height of our gap, seen from -the valley below, we estimated the height of the Col, which we proposed -to call Col de la Pilatte, at about 11,500 feet. It is certainly not -much below this, and is, therefore, probably the highest pass yet -effected in the Dauphin Alps. - -[Illustration: A VERY TAME BERGSCHRUND. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: HOMEWARD OVER THE SNOW-SLOPES.] - -"It was no less provoking to have missed the view of the Ecrins and -Ailefroide, which we had expected to be particularly fine. But there was -no help for it, and no prospect of immediate improvement; so, without -halting for a minute, we commenced the descent in the same order as -before. All we could see was a steep ice-wall, stretching downwards from -our feet, the actual ridge not being more than a couple of feet wide. -What was the length of the wall, or what lay below it, we could not -discover, but had a shrewd suspicion that we should anyhow find a -considerable _bergschrund_. Croz steered to the left, and began cutting -steps diagonally downwards. The snow was in a much worse condition than -it had been in the couloir; there was more of it, but it was so -exceedingly soft, that our feet pressed through it to the hard ice, as -though it had been water, and we were very rarely able to trust to it -without cutting a step. We should have been better pleased had there -been no snow at all, as the whole slope, the angle of which was about -50, was in just the proper condition for an avalanche. I never saw -Almer so nervous, and with reason; for, as he himself said, while he -implored us not to move from one step into another before we felt that -one foot at least was secured, this was just one of those places where -no amount of skill on the part of Croz or himself could entirely prevent -the chance of a serious accident. It was a wonder how we did manage to -stick to some of the steps, the objectionable character of which was -increased from their being cut along the side of the slope, a position -in which it is always more difficult to get from one to the other than -when they are cut straight up or down. As we got lower down there was -more snow, which, though softer than ever, was so steep that we could -tread tolerably secure steps on it, by help of which we worked down, -until we found ourselves brought up short on the upper edge of the -expected _bergschrund_. Croz had hoped to hit this at a point where it -was partially choked, but he was disappointed, as the chasm yawned below -us, entirely unbridged. A glance right and left showed that there was no -more assailable point within reach, so Croz gave out the unwelcome -intelligence that if we wished to get over we must jump and take our -chance. The obstacle appeared to be about 10 feet wide, of uncomfortable -depth, and the drop from the upper to the lower edge about 15 feet. From -the lower edge the glacier sloped away, only less steep than the wall on -which we were, of which it was a continuation, but cut off by this -sudden break. There was, however, so much soft snow that we should fall -easy, and the only difficulty, therefore, was to take a sufficiently -fair spring to clear the chasm; for, good as I believed my rope to be, I -should have been sorry to see any one suspended by it, with a sudden -jerk, over such a gulf as that we had beneath us. Walker was untied, so -as to give rope enough to Croz, who then boldly sprung over, and landed -heavily on the lower edge in the snow, where he stood to receive the -rest of the party. Walker followed, and then Whymper, leaving Mons. -Renaud, myself, and Almer above. Mons. Renaud advanced to the edge, -looked, hesitated, drew back, and finally declared that he could not -jump it; he felt perfectly convinced that he should be unable to clear -the distance, and should jump in instead of over. We encouraged him, -but without effect, and at last proposed to lower him down, when the -others would hook hold of his legs somehow and pull him across. Almer -and I, therefore, made our footing as secure as possible, anchored -ourselves with our axes, and made all ready to lower our friend, but his -courage failed him at the last moment, and he refused to go. We were now -obliged to use stronger arguments, as it was snowing fast, and time was -passing, so we pointed out that, if we wished to return ever so much, we -could not get the others back across the _schrund_, and that, in point -of fact, there was no chance--over he _must_ go. Again did he advance to -the edge, again draw back, but finally, with a despairing groan, leaped, -and just landed clear of the chasm, but, instead of letting his rope -hang loose, he held it in one hand, and thereby nearly pulled me over -head foremost. Then came my turn, and I must confess that, when I stood -in the last step from which I had to spring, I did not like the look of -the place at all, and, in fact, felt undeniably nervous. But I had not -been one of the least backward in objurgating Mons. Renaud, so felt -constrained to manifest no hesitation myself, whatever might be my -private feelings. I, therefore, threw over my axe and spectacles, -gathered myself up, and took the leap. The sensation was most peculiar. -I had not the faintest idea whether I should or should not clear the -chasm, but the doubt was soon solved by my landing heavily on the -further side, rather to the right of the rest of the party. The heavy -load on my back sent me forwards on my face, and I shot down the slope -with tremendous velocity, head foremost, until I was suddenly stopped by -the tightening round my waist of the rope, the other end of which was -held by Almer above. My first impression was, that half my ribs were -crushed in; as it was, my wind was so completely bagged by the severity -of the jerk that I could not speak, but laughed hysterically, until -nature's bellows had replenished my unlucky carcass. The incident was so -far satisfactory that it showed the enormous strength of the rope, and -also how severe a shock a man like Almer, standing in a most insecure -position, can bear unmoved when he is prepared for it. My weight, -unloaded, is 10 stone, and the strain on the rope was certainly nearly -as great as though I _had_ jumped into the crevasse. Almer now followed -us over, and at 11.35 we were all together without accident below the -_schrund_, which, with the wall above it, was as ugly-looking a place as -I would wish to see. - -"We now floundered down the slope of soft snow, without taking much -care, as we imagined that henceforward it was all plain sailing, but -were abruptly checked in our pace by coming upon a huge crevasse, of -great length and breadth, but covered over in places. Several attempts -were made to cross at one of these points, but without success, as the -breadth was too great, and the snow unsubstantial in the extreme, and a -long _dtour_ was necessary before we were able to get over near its -eastern extremity. This proved to be the beginning of a new series of -troubles, as the chasms became more and more numerous and complicated, -until the slope which we had imagined would be so easy, resolved itself -into a wall of gigantic _sracs_, the passage of which tasked our -energies to the utmost. The difficulty of the position was increased by -our still being enveloped in a mist so thick that we could not see a -distance of 20 feet below us, and were in a happy state of ignorance as -to whether we were steering properly, or were only plunging deeper into -the mire. Nothing, however, could exceed the energy and skill with which -Croz threaded his way through the labyrinth which surrounded us. He -never once had to retrace his steps, but, cutting along the sides of -some crevasses and underneath others, he steadily gained ground. In -spite of the generally deep snow, a good deal of step-cutting was -necessary here and there, and we had nearly an hour of most exciting -work before the inclination of the glacier diminished, and at 12.30 -P.M., for the first time since leaving the Col, we stood at ease upon a -flat plain of snow. But how long would it last? A fog on an unknown -glacier always suggests to my desponding mind the probability of -marching round and round in a circle, and finally having to pass the -night in a crevasse, so that I, personally, was particularly relieved -when, just as we emerged from the _sracs_, the mist suddenly lifted -sufficiently to let us see a long way over the glacier in front, which -displayed itself to our admiring eyes perfectly level and -uncrevassed." - -[Illustration: THE ECRINS FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE GRANDE RUINE.] - -[Illustration: _The summit of the Jungfrau._ (_P. 217._) - -_To face p. 235._] - -[Illustration: CLOUDS BREAKING LIKE A GIANT WATERFALL ON A MOUNTAIN -RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: SNOW (NOT CLOUD) BLOWN BY A TERRIFIC WIND FROM A MOUNTAIN -RIDGE.] - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -A PERILOUS FIRST ASCENT - - -Mr Whymper has also immortalised the first ascent of the Ecrins. Here is -the account Mr Moore wrote in his diary of that eventful day: - -"It must be confessed that the higher we climbed, the greater became our -contempt for our peak. It certainly seemed that, once over the -_bergschrund_, we ought very soon to be on the top, and so persuaded was -I of this, that I hazarded the opinion that by 9.30 we should be seated -on the highest point. Whymper alone was less sanguine; and, probably -encouraged by the result of his former bet, on hearing my opinion, -offered to bet Walker and myself two francs that we should not get up at -all, an offer which we promptly accepted. We were now sufficiently near -to the _bergschrund_ to be able to form some idea of its nature and -difficulty. It certainly was a formidable-looking obstacle running -completely along the base of the final peak, or rather ridge from which -the peak itself rose. For a long distance the chasm was of great width, -and, with its upper edge rising in a wall of ice, fringed with icicles, -to a height of, perhaps, 30 feet above the lower edge, was obviously -quite impassable. But on the extreme right (looking up), the two lips so -nearly met that we thought we might be able to get over, and on the -extreme left, it seemed possible, by a considerable _dtour_, to -circumvent the enemy, and get round his flank. We finally determined on -the latter course, as, to the right, the slope above the chasm seemed to -be steeper than at any other point. After the first start, we had been -steering tolerably straight forwards up the centre of the glacier, and -were now approaching the _bergschrund_, just under the highest peak of -the mountain, at about its most impracticable point. The more direct -course would have been to attack it on the right, but, for the reason -above stated, we chose the opposite end, so had to strike well away to -the left diagonally up the slope. We here first began to suspect that -our progress would not be quite so easy and rapid as we had hoped, as -the snow became less abundant, and the use of the axe necessary. Still -we worked away steadily, until, at 8.10 A.M., in one hour and forty -minutes from the Col, we turned the _bergschrund_, and were fairly on -its upper edge, clinging to an ice-step which promised to be only the -first of an unpleasantly long series. - -"Above us the slope stretched up to some rocks, which continued without -interruption to the main ridge, a prominent point on which was just -above our heads. The rocks looked quite easy, and it seemed that, by -making for them just under the small peak, we should be able to work -round the latter, and get on to the main ridge to the right of it -without serious difficulty. Almer led, and wielded his axe with his -usual vigour, but the ice was fearfully hard, and he found the work very -severe, as the steps had to be cut sufficiently large and good to serve -for our retreat, if need be. After each blow, he showered down storms of -fragments which came upon the hands and legs of his followers with a -violence that rendered their position the reverse of pleasant. Still the -rocks kept their distance, and it was a long time before we scrambled on -to the lowest of them, only to find that, although from below they had -appeared quite easy, they were in reality very steep, and so smooth that -it was scarcely possible to get along them at all, the hold for hands -and feet being almost nil. The rocky peak, too, above us turned out to -be much further off than we had supposed, and, to reach the point on the -main ridge to the right of it, we had before us a long and difficult -climb up and along the face of the rocks. The prospect was not pleasant, -but we scrambled along the lower part of the rocks for a short time, and -then Almer started off alone to reconnoitre, leaving us rather -disconsolate, and Walker and myself beginning to think that there was a -considerable probability of our francs, after all, finding their way -into Whymper's pocket. Croz did not approve of the rocks at all, and -strongly urged the propriety of getting down on to the ice-slope again, -and cutting along it above the _bergschrund_ until we should be -immediately under the peak, and then strike straight up towards it. He -accordingly cast loose the rope, and crawling cautiously down, began -cutting. I am not very nervous, but, as I saw him creeping alone over -the ice-covered rocks, I felt an unpleasant qualm, which I was doomed to -experience several times before the end of the day. Just as Croz had -begun to work Almer returned, and reported that things ahead were -decidedly bad, but that he thought we could get on to the _arte_ by -keeping up the rocks. We passed his opinion down to Croz, and, while he -was digesting it, we communicated to Almer what Croz had been saying to -us. Now, up to the present time no two men could have got on better, nor -more thoroughly agreed with each other, than Croz and Almer. We had been -slightly afraid that the natural antipathy between an Oberlander and a -Chamouniard would break out upon every occasion, and that a constant -series of squabbles would be our daily entertainment. We were, however, -agreeably disappointed, as Almer displayed such an utter abnegation of -self, and such deference to Croz's opinion, that had the latter been the -worst-tempered fellow in the world, instead of the really good fellow -that he was, he could not have found a cause of quarrel. Upon this -occasion, although Almer adhered to his own opinion that it would be -better to keep to the rocks, he begged us to follow the advice of Croz, -who was equally strong in favour of the ice, should he, on further -consideration, prefer that course. Croz protested emphatically against -the rocks, but left it to us to decide, but in such a manner that it was -plain that a decision adverse to his wishes would produce a rumpus. The -position was an awkward one. The idea of cutting along a -formidably-steep slope of hard ice immediately above a prodigious -_bergschrund_ was most revolting to us, not only on account of the -inevitable danger of the proceeding, but also because of the frightful -labour which such a course must entail on the two men. On the other -hand, a serious difference with Croz would probably destroy all chance -of success in our attempt. So convinced, however, were we that the rocks -offered the most advisable route that we determined to try the -experiment on Croz's temper, and announced our decision accordingly. The -effect was electric; Croz came back again in the steps which he had cut, -anger depicted on his countenance, giving free vent to the ejaculations -of his native land, and requesting us to understand that, as we had so -chosen, we might do the work ourselves, that he would do no more. -Affairs were evidently serious, so each of us cried _peccavi_, and, to -calm his irritation, agreed, it must be confessed against our better -judgment, to adopt his route. Almer was more amused than annoyed, and -concurred without a word, so the storm blew over; the sky was again -clear, and we resumed our labours, which, during the discussion, had -been suspended for a few minutes. - -"The half-dozen steps that led us to the ice were about the most -unpleasant I ever took. The rocks were glazed with ice; there was -nothing in particular to hold on by, and without the trusty rope I -should have looked a long time before trusting myself to move. As it -was, I was very considerably relieved when we were all standing in the -steps, and Croz, again roped on to us, began at 9.35 to cut in front. I -must do him the justice to say that, so soon as we were committed to his -line of march, he worked splendidly, bringing the whole force of his arm -to bear in the blows with which he hewed the steps. Never halting for a -moment nor hesitating, he hacked away, occasionally taking a glance -behind to see that all was right. We could not but admire the -determination with which he laboured, but the exertion was fearful, and -we became momentarily more of opinion that our original decision was the -wisest. The slope on which we were was inclined at an angle of 50, -never less, sometimes more, for the most part of hard blue ice, bare of -snow. This was bad enough; but far worse were places which we -occasionally came to, where there was a layer of soft, dry, powdery -snow, without cohesion, so that it gave no footing, and steps had to be -cut through it into the ice below, steps which were filled up almost as -soon as cut, and which each man had to clear out with his hands before -trusting his feet in them. All the time the great _bergschrund_ yawned -about 100 feet below us, and the knowledge of this fact kept us well on -the alert, although, from the steepness of the slope below, the chasm -itself was not visible. One hears people talk occasionally of places -where the rope should not be used, because one person slipping might -entail the loss of the whole party; but I never heard a guide give vent -to any such idea, and certain I am that had any one of us now proposed -to take off the rope and go alone on that account, Almer and Croz would -never have allowed it, and, indeed, would not have advanced another -step. It must be admitted, however, that all along this slope, had one -of us unfortunately slipped, the chance of the others being able to hold -him up would have been very small, and the probability of the party in -their fall being shot over, instead of into, the _bergschrund_, still -smaller. But, in my opinion, the use of the rope on such places gives so -much more confidence, if it is no real protection, that the chances of a -slip are much diminished, and certainly a party can progress more -rapidly. For an hour Croz kept on his way unwearied, cutting the steps -for the most part beautifully, but occasionally giving us rather a long -stride, where every one held on like grim death, while each man in -succession passed. But at last even his powerful frame required rest; so -Almer relieved him, and went to the front. - -"All this time we had risen but little, but we were now very nearly -under the highest peak, and it was necessary to think of getting on to -the ridge; so we at last fairly turned our faces to the slope, and began -cutting straight up what appeared to be a great central couloir. Unlike -most couloirs, this one did not run without interruption to the ridge -above, but came to an abrupt termination at a considerable distance -below it, leaving an intervening space of rock, which promised some -trouble. But we were yet far from the lowest point of these rocks, and -every step towards them cost no small amount of time and labour. I have -rarely been on harder ice, and, as blow after blow fell with so little -apparent result in raising us towards our goal, an inexpressible -weariness of spirit and a feeling of despair took possession of me. -Nevertheless we _did_ mount, and at 11.30, after two hours of terribly -hard work (for the guides), we grasped with our hands the lowest of the -crags. To get on them, however, was no easy task, as they were -exceedingly smooth, and coated with ice. Almer scrambled up, how I know -not, and, taking as much rope as possible, crawled on until he was -_fest_, when, by a combined operation of pulling from above and pushing -from below, each of us in turn was raised a few steps. We hoped that -this might be an exceptional bit, and that higher up matters would -improve. But it was a vain hope; the first few steps were but a -foretaste of what was to follow, and every foot of height was gained -with the greatest difficulty and exertion. As we climbed with the tips -of our fingers in some small crevice, and the tips of our toes just -resting on some painfully minute ledge, probably covered with ice or -snow, one question gradually forced itself upon us, almost to the -exclusion of the previously absorbing one, whether we should get to the -top of the mountain, and this was, how on earth we should ever get down -again--get down, that is to say, in any other state than that of -_dbris_. The idea that it would be possible to descend these rocks -again, except with a rush in the shape of an avalanche, seemed rather -absurd; and at last, some one propounded the question to Almer and Croz, -but those worthies shirked the answer, and gave us one of those oracular -replies which a good guide always has at the tip of his tongue when he -is asked a question to which he does not wish to give a straightforward -response, to the effect that we should probably get down somehow. They -were, perhaps, of opinion that one thing at a time was sufficient, and -that they had work enough to settle the question of how we were to get -up. Our progress was unavoidably slow, and the positions in which one -was detained, while the man in front was going the full length of his -tether, were far from agreeable; while hanging on by my eyelids, the -view, seen between my legs, of the smooth wall of rock and ice on which -we had been so long engaged, struck me as being singularly impressive, -and gave me some occupation in discussing mentally where I should stop, -if in an oblivious moment I chanced to let go. But to all things must -come an end, and, at 12.30 P.M., with a great sigh of relief, we lifted -ourselves by a final effort on to the main ridge, which had so long -mocked at our efforts to reach it, and, to our huge delight, saw the -summit of the mountain on our right, led up to by a very steep _arte_ -of rocks, but evidently within our reach. - -"The work of the last four hours and a half had been so exciting that -we had forgotten to eat, and, indeed, had not felt the want of food; but -now the voice of nature made itself heard, and we disposed ourselves in -various positions on the ridge, which in many places we might have -straddled, and turned our attention to the provisions. As we sat facing -the final peak of the Ecrins, we had on our left the precipice which -falls to the head of the Glacier Noir. Without any exaggeration, I never -saw so sheer a wall; it was so smooth and regular that it might have -been cut with a knife, as a cheese is cut in two. Looking over, we saw -at once that, as we had thought probable, had we been able to get from -La Brarde on to the ridge at the head of the Glacier du Vallon, it -would have been impossible to get down on to the Glacier Noir, as the -cliffs are almost as precipitous as those down which we were looking. On -the right bank of the Glacier Noir towered the dark crags of the -Pelvoux, Crte du Pelvoux, and Ailefroide, a most glorious sight, -presenting a combination of, perhaps, the finest rock-forms in the Alps; -I certainly never saw so long and steep a line of cliffs, rising so -abruptly from a glacier. - -"At 12.50 we started again, Almer leading. We had first to cross a very -short but very narrow neck of snow, and Almer had scarcely set foot on -this, when a great mass of snow, which had appeared quite firm and part -of the ridge, suddenly gave way, and fell with a roar to the Glacier -Noir below. Almer's left foot was actually on this snow when it gave -way. He staggered, and we all thought he was over, but he recovered -himself and managed to keep steady on the firm ridge. It is true he was -roped; but the idea of a man being dropped with a sudden jerk, and then -allowed to hang suspended, over that fearful abyss, was almost too much -for my equanimity, and for the second time a shudder ran through my -veins. This little isthmus crossed, we tackled the rocks which rose very -steeply above our heads, and climbed steadily up along the _arte_, -generally rather below the edge on the side of the Glacier de l'Encula. -The work was hard enough, but easier than what we had gone through -below, as the rocks were free from ice, and the hold for hands and feet -was much better, so that there was no fear of slipping. I don't think a -word was said from the time we quitted our halting-place until we were -close to the top, when the guides tried to persuade us to go in front, -so as to be the first to set foot on the summit. But this we declined; -they had done the work, let them be the first to reap the reward. It was -finally settled that we should all go on together as much as possible, -as neither party would give way in this amicable contest. A sharp -scramble in breathless excitement ensued, until, at 1.25 P.M., the last -step was taken, and we stood on the top of the Ecrins, the worthy -monarch of the Dauphin Alps. - -[Illustration: THE ECRINS (IN THE CENTRE) FROM THE GLACIER BLANC. By -Signor Vittorio Sella. - -_To face p. 247._] - -"In that supreme moment all our toils and dangers were forgotten in the -blissful consciousness of success, and the thrill of exultation that ran -through me, as I stood, in my turn, on the very highest point of the -higher pinnacle--a little peak of rock with a cap of snow--was cheaply -purchased by what we had gone through. Close to us was a precisely -similar point, of much the same height, which scarcely came up to the -rank of a second summit. It could have been reached in a few seconds -from our position, but, as our point was actually the higher of the two, -and was also more convenient for sitting down, we remained where we -were. I must confess to a total inability to describe the wonderful -panorama that lay extended before us. I am not one of those happily -constituted individuals who, after many hours of excitement, can calmly -sit on the apex of a mountain, and discuss simultaneously cold chicken -and points of topography. I am not ashamed to confess that I was far too -excited to study, as I ought to have done, the details of a view which, -for extent and variety, is altogether without a parallel in my Alpine -experience. Suffice it to say that over the whole sky there was not one -single cloud, and that we were sitting on the most elevated summit south -of Mont Blanc, and it may fairly be left to the imagination to conceive -what we saw, as, at an elevation of 13,462 feet, we basked in the sun, -without the cold wind usually attendant at these heights. There was not -a breath of air, and the flame of a candle would have burnt steadily -without a flicker. In our immediate neighbourhood, after the range of -the Pelvoux, before described, the most striking object was the great -wall of the Meije, the western summit of which, from here, came out -distinctly the highest. The Aiguilles d'Arves stood out exceedingly -well, and, although 2000 feet lower than our position, looked amazingly -high. Almost the only trace of civilisation we could distinctly make out -was the Lautaret road, a portion of which, probably near the entrance of -the valley leading to the Glacier d'Arsines, was plainly visible. On the -side of the mountain towards La Brarde, what principally struck us was -a very great and extensive glacier, apparently not marked on the map, -which appeared to be an arm of the Glacier du Vallon, but far more -considerable itself than the whole glacier is depicted on the French -map. Of the extent of the view, and the wonderfully favourable condition -of the atmosphere, a fair idea may be gained from the fact that we -clearly identified the forms and ridges of the Matterhorn and Weisshorn, -the latter at a distance of 120 miles, as the crow flies, and that -those were by no means the most distant objects visible. - -[Illustration: SLAB CLIMBING. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: A NARROW ROCK RIDGE. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: ON THE DENT DU GANT. By the late Mr. W. F. Donkin.] - -[Illustration: THE TOP AT LAST! - -_To face p. 252._] - -"So soon as the first excitement consequent on success had subsided, we -began seriously to meditate upon what during the ascent had frequently -troubled us, viz. the descent. With one consent we agreed that unless no -other route could be found, it would be most unadvisable to attempt to -go down the way we had mounted. The idea of the rocks, to be followed by -the ice-slope below--in a doubly dangerous state after being exposed all -day to the scorching sun--was not to be entertained without a shudder. -The only alternative route lay along the opposite _arte_ to that which -had led us to the top, and, although we could not see far in this -direction, we determined, after very little discussion, to try it. -Accordingly, after twenty minutes' halt, we each pocketed a small -fragment of the stone that was lying on the snow, and, regretting that -we had no bottle to leave, and no materials with which to construct a -cairn, took our departure at 1.45 from the lofty perch which, I fancy, -is not likely to receive many subsequent visitors. Passing immediately -below the second point before mentioned, so that our hands almost rested -on it, and also several similar pinnacles, our work commenced. I never, -before or since, was on so narrow an _arte_ of rock, and really from -step to step I was at a loss to imagine how we were to get on any -further. We kept, as a rule, just below the edge, as before, on the side -of the Glacier de l'Encula, along a series of ledges of the narrowest -and most insecure character; but we were always sufficiently near the -top to be able to look over the ridge, down the appalling precipices -which overhang, first the Glacier Noir, and later, the Glacier du -Vallon. Of course, every single step had to be taken with the greatest -care, only one person moving in turn, and the rest holding on for dear -life, Croz coming last to hold all up. In spite of the great difficulty -of the route, the obstacles were only such as required more or less time -to surmount, and although the slightest nervousness on the part of any -one of us would have endangered the whole party and delayed us -indefinitely, in the absence of that drawback we got on pretty well. We -were beginning to hope that the worst was over, when Almer suddenly -stopped short, and looked about him uneasily. On our asking him what was -the matter, he answered vaguely that things ahead looked bad, and that -he was not sure that we could pass. Croz accordingly undid the rope, as -also did Almer, and the two went forward a little, telling us to remain -where we were. We could _not_ see what was the nature of the difficulty, -but we _could_ see the countenances of the men, which sufficiently -showed us that the hitch was serious. Under any other circumstances we -should have been amused at Almer's endeavours to communicate his views -to Croz in an amazing mixture of pantomime, bad German, and worse -French. He evidently was trying to persuade Croz of something, which -Croz was not inclined to agree to, and we soon made out that the point -at issue was, whether we could get over this particular place, or -whether we must return to the summit, and go down the way we had come. -Croz was of the latter opinion, while Almer obstinately maintained that, -bad as the place was, we _could_ get over it, and proceeded to perform -some manoeuvres, which we could not clearly see, by way of showing the -correctness of his opinion. Croz, however, was unconvinced, and came -back to us, declaring plainly that we should have to return. We shouted -to Almer, who was still below, but he evidently had not the slightest -intention of returning, and in a few moments called upon us to come on, -an injunction which we cheerfully obeyed as, in our opinion, anything -would be preferable to a retreat, and Croz perforce followed. A very few -steps showed us the nature of the difficulty. The _arte_ suddenly -narrowed to a mere knife-edge of _rock_, while on one side a smooth -wall, some 4000 feet in height, fell sheer towards the Glacier du -Vallon, and on the other side, above the Glacier de l'Encula, the slope -was not much less steep and equally smooth. To pass below the ridge on -either side was obviously quite impossible; to walk along the ridge, -which was by no means level, was equally so, and the only way of getting -over the difficulty, therefore, was to straddle it, an operation which -the sharpness of the ridge, putting aside all other considerations, -would render the reverse of agreeable. However, there, perched in the -middle of this fiendish place, sat Almer, with one leg over Glacier du -Vallon and the other over the Glacier de l'Encula, calm and unmoved, as -if the position was quite an everyday one. He had not got the rope on, -and as he began moving along the ridge we shrieked at him to take care, -to which he responded with a '_ja, gewiss!_' and a chuckle of -satisfaction. We threw him the end of the rope, and then cautiously -moved, one at a time, towards him. I must confess that when I found -myself actually astride on this dizzy height I felt more inclined to -remain there for ever, contemplating the Glacier du Vallon, on to which -I might have dropped a stone, than to make my way along it. The -encouraging voice of Almer, however, urged me on, and I gradually worked -myself along with my hands until I was close up to him and Walker, with -no damage save to the seat of my trousers. Whymper and Croz followed. -From this point forwards we had for half-an-hour, without exception, the -most perilous climbing, I ever did. We crept along the cliffs, -sometimes on one side of the ridge, sometimes on the other, frequently -passing our arms over the summit, with our feet resting on rather less -than nothing. Almer led with wonderful skill and courage, and gradually -brought us over the worst portion of the _arte_, below which the -climbing was bad enough, but not quite such nervous work as before, and -we were able to get along rather quicker. At length, at 3.45, in two -hours from the top, we were not far above the well-marked gap in the -ridge, between the highest peak and the one marked on the French map -3980 mtres, or 13,058 feet. There we thankfully left the _arte_, and, -turning to the right, struck straight down the ice-slope towards the -_bergschrund_. Almost every step had to be cut, but, in spite of all he -had done, Almer's vigour seemed unimpaired, and resolutely declining -Croz's offers to come to the front, he hacked away, so that we descended -steadily, if slowly. We could not see the _bergschrund_, and were -therefore uncertain for what exact point to steer, for we knew that at -only one place would it be possible to get over it at all, where from -below we had seen that the two edges nearly met--at all others the -breadth and height would be far too great for a jump. For some distance -we kept straight down, but after a time bore rather to the left, cutting -diagonally along the slope, which was inclined at an angle of 52, and, -below us, curled over so rapidly, that we _could_ see the glacier on to -which we wished to descend, but _could not_ see what lay between us and -it. Passing over a patch of ice-covered rocks which projected very -slightly from the general level of the slope, we were certain that we -could not be far above the _schrund_, but did not quite see how we were -to get down any further without knowing whether we _were_ above a -practicable point or not. It was suggested that one of the party should -be let down with a rope, but, while we were discussing who should be the -one, Almer cut a few steps more, and then, stooping down and craning -over, gave a yell of exultation, and exclaimed that it was all right, -and that we might jump over. By a marvellous bit of intuition, or good -luck, he had led us to the only point where the two edges of the chasm -so nearly met that we could get across. He cut down as low as possible, -and then, from the last step, each man, in turn, sprang without -difficulty on to the lower edge of the crevasse, and at 4.45 the problem -of getting off the mountain was solved. - -"The return from this point was uneventful." - -A few days later Mr Moore had an amusing conversation with a chance -acquaintance, who made a remark that has since been often quoted. Mr -Moore relates it as follows:-- - -"At the door of the hotel was standing a young Frenchman, with whom we -got into conversation, observing that we had just made the ascent of the -highest mountain in the country. 'Oh,' replied he, 'sans doute, le Pic -de Belledonne'; a rather elevated Rigi in the neighbourhood. We informed -him that our conquest was not the Pic de Belladonne, but the Pic des -Ecrins, on hearing which he smiled blandly, never having heard the name -before, and, evidently meditating how he might avoid showing his -ignorance, finally contented himself with a spasmodic 'Ah!' After a -short pause, he inquired whether we had been up Mont Blanc, and, on _my_ -replying in the negative, went on to say that _he_ had, about ten days -before. We were astonished, as, without wishing to reflect on the -appearance of the worthy Gaul, I must say that he did not give us the -idea of a man capable of such a performance. However, we, in our turn, -smiled blandly, and inquired whether, so early in the season, he had -found the ascent difficult, and whether he had had a good view from the -_summit_. 'From the summit!' said he; 'I did not go to the summit.' We -ventured to inquire how high his wanderings had reached. 'Mon Dieu!' -replied he, 'jusqu'au Montanvert!' Our politeness was not proof against -this, so we broke off the conversation abruptly, and retired to indulge -our merriment unchecked." - -The Ecrins is now frequently climbed. A new way up the rocky south side -was discovered by a Frenchman, and is now usually taken for the ascent, -the descent being accomplished by the north face which the party that -included Mr Moore went up by and which has just been described. The -route is now well known, and thus it is possible to hit off the easiest -passages, but the traverse of what is known to the guides as 'the -Couloir Whymper' always requires the greatest care. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -THUNDERSTORMS IN THE ALPS - - -The fatal accident caused by lightning on the Wetterhorn in 1902 has -emphasized the curious fact that, except on that occasion, and once -before, many years ago, when Mrs Arbuthnot was killed on the -Schildthorn, no lives[10] have been lost in a thunderstorm on the Alps. -This is the more remarkable when we glance through books on -mountaineering, and notice how often climbers have been exposed to the -full fury of summer storms, and what narrow escapes they have had. In -July 1863, Mr and Mrs Spence Watson, with two friends and two guides, -made an excursion from the ggischhorn to the high glacier pass of the -Jungfraujoch, an admirable account of the day's adventures having been -contributed by Mr Watson to _The Alpine Journal_, from which I extract -the following details. - -After starting on a lovely morning, the weather changed, and when they -got to the pass they encountered a severe storm of wind, snow, and hail. -They quickly turned to descend, the snow falling so heavily that they -could not for a time see their old tracks. Suddenly a loud peal of -thunder was heard, "and shortly after," writes Mr Watson, "I observed -that a strange singing sound like that of a kettle was issuing from my -alpenstock. We halted, and finding that all the axes and stocks emitted -the same sound, stuck them into the snow. The guide from the hotel now -pulled off his cap, shouting that his head burned, and his hair seemed -to have a similar appearance to that which it would have presented had -he been on an insulated stool under a powerful electrical machine. We -all of us experienced the sensation of pricking or burning in some part -of the body, more especially in the head and face, my hair also standing -on end in an uncomfortable but very amusing manner. The snow gave out a -hissing sound, as though a shower of hail were falling; the veil in the -wide-awake of one of the party stood upright in the air; and on waving -our hands, the singing sound issued loudly from the fingers. Whenever a -peal of thunder was heard the phenomenon ceased, to be resumed before -its echoes had died away. At these times we felt shocks, more or less -violent, in those portions of the body which were most affected. By one -of these shocks my right arm was paralysed so completely that I could -neither use nor raise it for several minutes, nor, indeed, till it had -been severely rubbed by Claret, and I suffered much pain in it at the -shoulder joint for some hours. At half-past twelve the clouds began -to pass away, and the phenomenon finally ceased, having lasted -twenty-five minutes. We saw no lightning, and were puzzled at first as -to whether we should be afraid or amused. The young guide was very much -alarmed, but Claret, who had twice previously heard the singing -(unaccompanied by the other symptoms), laughed so heartily at the whole -affair that he kept up our spirits." - -[Illustration: ON A RIDGE IN THE OBERLAND.] - -[Illustration: THE SECOND LARGEST GLACIER IN THE ALPS. By Royston Le -Blond. - -_To face p. 259._] - -The position of the party, was, however, by no means safe, yet though I -have often heard the buzzing of ice-axes and rocks when in a -thunderstorm on the mountains, I have never seen any ill effects from -it. - -A little later another description appears in _The Alpine Journal_, by -Mr C. Packe, who, during the descent of a peak in the Pyrenees, was -astonished to hear a curious creaking sound proceeding from behind him. -He was carrying various heavy articles at the time, and imagined that -the noise was due to the straining of the straps of his knapsack. He -presently unslung his load, and was amazed to find a strange buzzing -noise proceeding from his rifle, "as though it had been an air gun -trying to discharge itself. As I held it away from me, pointed upwards," -he continues, "the noise became stronger, and as I in vain sought to -account for it, I thought it possible that some large insect--a bee or -beetle--might have got down the barrel, and be trying to escape. I held -the barrel downwards, with a view to shake it out; but on lowering the -gun the sound at once ceased, but was renewed as often as I raised it." -It then began to occur to Mr Packe that the sound was electrical, and he -felt sure this was so when he found that his alpenstock had joined in -the buzzing. He therefore made a hasty retreat out of the highly charged -upper regions. Several peals of thunder had previously been heard but no -lightning was seen. A violent storm had, however, been experienced in a -neighbouring district. That similar conditions may seem delightful to -one man and entirely odious to another will strike whoever reads the -following short extract from an account of a climb in the Pyrenees made -by Mons. Henri Brulle. It was translated by Count Russell for _The -Alpine Journal_, and runs as follows: - -"Another time I crossed the Vignemale alone, _en col_, under conditions -which made this expedition the pleasantest of my souvenirs. A furious -storm was raging. Enveloped in the morning in a dense fog, annoyed in -the steep couloirs of the Cerbillonas by vultures which swept over me -like avalanches, just grazing me with their long wings, assailed during -three hours by hailstones of such size that they bruised and stunned me, -deafened by thunder, and so electrified that I was hissing and -crepitating, I notwithstanding reached the summit at half-past four in -the evening, amidst incessant detonations. In descending the glacier I -got lost in a labyrinth of crevasses, and while balancing myself on an -ice-wave I nearly dropped my ice-axe. As a climax, night came on as -black as ink, and I had to grope and feel my way down the endless valley -of Ossoue. It was eleven o'clock at night when I reached Gavarnie, -almost starved and quite exhausted, but having lived the crowning day of -my life." - -Here is indeed Mark Tapley in the flesh! - -Captain E. Clayton relates in _The Alpine Journal_ an adventure that -nearly cost him his life. - -"On 17th August last I left the Hochjoch Haus with Gabriel -Spechtenhauser with the intention of ascending the Weisskugel at the -head of the Oetzthal. The weather for the past week had been very -changeable, but when we started at 3 A.M. it was fine and starlight. A -German gentleman with two guides and two others with two guides started -at the same time. As long as the aid of a lantern was desirable we kept -together, but as it grew light Gabriel and I gradually drew ahead. As -day broke clouds began to gather, and when we halted for breakfast at -6.10 A.M. they hung so heavy on the Weisskugel that after breakfast, -instead of going straight on, we diverged to the top of the rocks -leading down towards Kurzras, with the intention of waiting a short -time to see what the weather would do, and if it did not mend, of going -down to Kurzras, where a friend was awaiting me. - -"At these rocks we were overtaken by the single German gentleman with -his guides, who had outstripped the other party. Before long the weather -seemed to improve, the clouds on the Weisskugel got lighter, the sky -seemed bright to the north, and we thought that very soon everything -would be quite clear. The German quickly made a fresh start, but Gabriel -and I waited to finish our pipes. However, we soon passed the other -party, and, passing over a minor summit, where we left the rope, reached -the real summit at 8.30 A.M. We had heard one or two peals of thunder on -the way, but none appeared very close, and they seemed to be getting -more distant. The summit was still in cloud, but it did not seem thick, -and I thought it would soon blow away. But almost directly we reached -the top it began to hail, and we went down a few steps on the rocky -ridge that falls towards the Langtauferer Glacier, to be somewhat -sheltered. - -"Here I remember handing Gabriel my map to put in his pocket to keep -dry, and knew nothing more till I woke to the consciousness that he was -lifting me up from where I was lying on the rocks, some 20 feet, I -suppose, lower than the point where we had been standing. I was -bleeding from a cut on the head, and my right arm was very painful, and -turned out afterwards to be broken. Gabriel said that he had been -knocked down also, but not rendered insensible, and, falling on his -hands towards the upward slope, was not hurt. He also said that he was -to a certain extent conscious of there having been a sudden glare and -explosion, but I knew nothing of it. The German and his two guides, who -at the time were just below the first summit, but not within sight of -us, were so alarmed at the lightning and thunder, that they turned at -once and never stopped till they reached Kurzras. The other party, who -had not got beyond the rocks where we halted during the ascent, waited -there for us, and Joseph Spechtenhauser, one of their guides, came to -meet us and see if we wanted assistance. However, I was quite myself -when I came to, which was directly Gabriel lifted me up, and the -mountain is so easy that my disabled arm was of little consequence. I -did not notice any more thunder or lightning after the flash that -knocked us down, and the day cleared up to a lovely one. I have every -reason to be pleased with Gabriel's kindness and attention to me without -regard to himself, and very much regret that my accident prevented me -from carrying out any of the other expeditions which I had promised -myself the pleasure of making in his company." - -One of the most exciting accounts of an adventure in the Alps is Mr -Tuckett's description of "A Race for Life,"[11] on the Eiger. Hardly -less stirring is a paper in _The Alpine Journal_ by the same famous -climber, from which he most kindly allows me to give a long quotation, -telling of a narrow escape during one of the most appalling -thunderstorms that could be experienced. The party were making the -ascent of the Roche Melon, a peak 11,593 feet high not far from the Mont -Cenis. The weather was unsettled, and grew worse as they mounted. - -"Proceeding very cautiously through the whirling wreaths of vapour lest -we should suddenly drop over upon Italy and hurt it--or ourselves--we -struck up the 'final incline'--as an American companion of mine once -dubbed the cone of Vesuvius as we looked down upon it from its rim--and -at 11.15 stood beside the ruins of the signal and enjoyed a very -magnificent view of nothing in particular. As we had plenty of time at -our disposal--three and a half hours sufficing for the descent to -Susa--and the wind was keen and damp, our first proceeding was to search -for the chapel, which we knew must be quite close to the summit of the -peak; and, about 30 feet lower down, on the southern side, which was -entirely free from snow, we came upon a tight little wooden building, -some 6 or 7 feet long and high by 5 broad, very carefully constructed, -with flat bands of thin iron on the outside covering the lines of -junction of the planks, so as effectually to keep out both wind and -moisture. Opposite the door, which we found carefully bolted, was a -wooden shelf against the wall serving as an altar, on which stood a -small bronze statuette of the Virgin, whilst on either hand hung the -usual curious medley of votive paintings, engravings, crosses, tapers -etc., not to mention certain pious scribblings. Taking great care to -disturb nothing, we arranged a loose board and our packs on the rather -damp floor so as to form a seat, and waited for the clouds to disperse -and disclose the superb panorama that we knew should here be visible. - -"Here I may be allowed to mention that a chapel, said to have been -originally excavated in the rock, and subsequently buried under ice or -snow, was here dedicated to the Virgin by a crusader of Asti, Boniface -by name, of the house of Rovero, in fulfilment of a vow made whilst a -captive in the hands of the Saracens. More recently the present wooden -structure has taken its place, and every year, on 5th August, pilgrims -resort to it in considerable numbers. Lower down on the Susa side is a -much more substantial structure, at a height of 9396 feet, called the C -d'Asti, in allusion to the circumstances of its foundation. The last is -a solidly, not to say massively, constructed circular edifice of stone -and mortar, some 15 or 16 feet in diameter, and perhaps rather more in -height, with a vaulted roof of solid masonry covered externally with -tiles, and surmounted by an iron cross. Seen from below, it stands out -boldly on a mass of crags which conceal the actual summit of the Roche -Melon, and close by are some low sheds, which appear ordinarily to serve -as shelter for flocks of sheep browsing on the grassy slopes around, but -on the night preceding the festa of 5th August, furnish sleeping -quarters for the assembled pilgrims, who attend mass in the adjoining -chapel, if the weather, as frequently happens, does not permit of its -being celebrated on the summit of the mountain, in what is probably the -most elevated shrine in Europe. - - * * * * * - -"The Roche Melon stands just in the track of the great storms which, -brewed in the heated plains of Lombardy and Piedmont, come surging up -through the valley of the Dora Riparia, and burst, hurling and crashing -over the depression of Mont Cenis, to find or make a watery grave in the -valley of the Arc. Of their combined fierceness and grandeur we were -soon to have only too favourable an opportunity of judging, for scarcely -more than five minutes after we had comfortably established ourselves -under shelter, suddenly, without a moment's warning, a perfect -_mitraille_ of hail smote the roof above us, tore through the mist like -grape-shot through battle-smoke, and whitened the ground like snow. We -closed the door carefully, for now came flash after flash of brilliant -lightning, with sharp, angry, snapping thunder, which, if we had been a -quarter of an hour later, would have made our position on the exposed -northern side anything but pleasant. We congratulated ourselves on our -good fortune, but were glad to pitch our axes amongst the _dbris_ of -rock above us and await patiently the hoped-for dispersal of the fog. In -a few minutes the hail ceased, the mist became somewhat brighter, rifts -appeared in all directions, and, issuing forth, we were amply rewarded -by such glimpses of the wonderful view as, if not fully satisfactory for -topographical purposes, were, in a picturesque and artistic point of -view, indescribably grand and interesting. The extent of level country -visible is a remarkable feature in the view from the Roche Melon, as -also in that from the summit of the Pourri, where Imseng not a little -amused me on first catching sight of the plains of France stretching -away till lost in the haze, by shouting in a fit of uncontrollable -enthusiasm, 'Ach! Das ist wunderschn!--ganz eben!'[12] - -"We had not had more than time enough to seize the general features of -the panorama and admire the special effects with their ever-changing and -kaleidoscopic combinations, when the mist once more swooped upon us, -again to be followed by hail, lightning, and thunder, and a fresh -clearance. But this second visitation left behind it a further souvenir -in the shape of a phenomenon with which most mountaineers are probably -more or less familiar, but which I never met with to the same extent -before--I allude to an electrified condition of the summit of the -mountain and all objects on its surface by conduction. As the clouds -swept by, every rock, every loose stone, the uprights of the rude -railing outside the chapel, the ruined signal, our axes, my lorgnette -and flask, and even my fingers and elbows, set up - - "'a dismal universal hiss.' - -It was as though we were in a vast nest of excited snakes, or a battery -of frying-pans, or listening at a short distance to the sustained note -of a band of _cigali_ in a chestnut wood--a mixture of comparisons which -may serve sufficiently to convey the impression that the general effect -was indescribable. I listened and looked and tried experiments for some -time, but suddenly it burst out with an energy that suggested a coming -explosion, or some equally unpleasant _dnouement_, and, dropping my -axe, to whose performance I had been listening, I fairly bolted for -the chapel. - -[Illustration: 13,300 FEET ABOVE THE SEA.] - -[Illustration: ON THE FURGGEN GRAT.] - -[Illustration: A "PERSONALLY CONDUCTED" PARTY ON THE BREITHORN.] - -[Illustration: PACKING THE KNAPSACK AFTER LUNCH. - -_To face p. 269._] - -"We had now spent a couple of hours on the summit, and had succeeded in -getting, bit by bit, a sight of most of the principal features of the -very remarkable view, with the exception of Monte Viso, which -persistently sulked; so at 1.15, as there seemed a probability of the -weather becoming worse before it improved, we quitted our excellent -shelter, and, after putting everything in order and carefully closing -and bolting the door, sallied forth into the mist, which was again -enshrouding the mountain, apparently as the advance guard of the -fiercest storm in the neighbourhood, which we had for some time been -watching as it swept solemnly towards us down the valley of the Dora. - -"There is a sort of track, rather than well-defined path, down the bare, -rocky, and _dbris_-covered southern face of the mountain, but in the -fog and momentarily increasing gloom of the coming tempest it was not -always very easy to distinguish it. Still, we descended rapidly, and in -less than half an hour had dropped down some 2000 feet to a point where, -during an instant's lift, we descried the outline of the C d'Asti five -minutes below us, just as the edge of the coming hail smote us with a -fury which it was hard at times to face. We dashed on--it was a regular -_sauve qui peut_--blinded and staggering under the pitiless pelting and -the fury of the blast, gained the door of the chapel, which faced the -storm, deposited our axes outside, and darted in, thankful again to find -ourselves under so good a roof just when it was most needed. - -"For, if there had been at times wild goings on upon the summit during -the morning, they were merely a faint prelude to the elemental strife -which now raged around. The wind roared and the hail hissed in fiendish -rivalry, and yet both seemed silenced when the awful crashes of thunder -burst above and about us. We were in the very central track and focus of -the storm, and, as we sat crouched upon the floor, the ground and the -building seemed to reel beneath the roar of the detonations, and our -heads almost to swim with the fierce glare of the lightning. I had -carefully closed the door, not only to keep the wind and hail out, but -also because lightning is apt to follow a current of air, and, to the -right on entering, at about the height of a man, was a small unglazed -window some 2 feet square. Opposite the door was the altar, on the step -of which I seated myself. Imseng took a place by my side, between me and -the window, whilst Christian perched himself on the coil of rope with -his back to the wall, not far from the door, and between it and the -window. A quarter of a hour may have gone by when a flash of intense -vividness seemed almost to dart through the window, and so affected -Imseng's nerves that he hastily quitted his seat by me and coiled -himself up near Christian, remarking that 'that was rather too close to -be pleasant.' Then came four more really awful flashes, followed all but -instantaneously by sharp, crackling thunder, which sounded like a volley -of bullets against a metal target, and then a fifth with a slightly -increased interval between it and the report. I was just remarking to -Christian that I thought the worst was past, and that we should soon be -liberated, adding, 'How fortunate we are for the second time to-day to -get such shelter just in the nick of time,' when--crash! went -everything, it seemed, all at once: - - "'No warning of the approach of flame, - Swiftly like sudden death it came.' - -If some one had struck me from behind on the bump of firmness with a -sledge-hammer, or if we had been in the interior of a gigantic -percussion shell which an external blow had suddenly exploded, I fancy -the sensation might have resembled that which I for the first instant -experienced. We were blinded, deafened, smothered, and struck, all in a -breath. The place seemed filled with fire, our ears rang with the -report, fragments of what looked like incandescent matter rained down -upon us as though a meteorite had burst, and a suffocating sulphurous -odour--probably due to the sudden production of ozone in large -quantities--almost choked us. For an instant we reeled as though -stunned, but each sprang to his feet and instinctively made for the -door. What my companions' ideas were I cannot tell; mine were few and -simple--I had been struck, or was being struck, or both; the roof would -be down upon us in another moment; inside was death, outside our only -safety. The door opened inwards, and our simultaneous rush delayed our -escape; but it was speedily thrown back, and, dashing out into the -blinding hail, we plunged, dazed and almost stupefied, into the nearest -shed. For the next few minutes the lightning continued to play about us -in so awful a manner that we were in no mood calmly to investigate the -nature or extent of our injuries. It was enough that we were still among -the living, though I must own that, at first, I had a fearful suspicion -that poor Imseng was seriously wounded. He held his head between his -hands, and rolled it about in so daft a manner, and was so odd and -unnatural in his movements generally, that it struck me his brain might -have received some injury. I, for my part, was painfully conscious of a -good deal of pain in the region of the right instep, and I saw that one -of Christian's hands was bleeding, and that he was holding both his -thighs as if in suffering. - -[Illustration: MONTE ROSA FROM THE FURGGEN GRAT.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE WELLENKUPPE. - -_To face p. 272_.] - -"Gradually the storm drew off towards the Mont Cenis, and, with minds -free from the tension of imminent peril, we had time to take stock of -our condition. It was a relief to see Imseng let go his head and -observe that it remained erect; to hear Christian say that his thighs -were getting better; and to find, on examining my foot, that the -mischief was nothing more than a flesh wound, which was bleeding but -slightly. My hat, indeed, was knocked in, my pockets filled with stones -and plaster, and my heart, it may be, somewhat nearer my mouth than -usual, but otherwise we could congratulate ourselves, with deep -thankfulness on a most marvellous escape from serious harm. - -"On comparing our impressions, Imseng declared that the lightning had -entered through the window, struck the altar, glanced off from it to the -wall, and then vanished, whilst Christian and I agreed in the belief -that the roof had been the part struck, and the flash had descended -almost vertically upon us. Quitting our place of refuge and repairing to -the chapel, we encountered a scene of ruin which at once confirmed the -correctness of our views. The lightning had evidently first struck the -iron cross outside and smashed in the roof, dashing fragments of stone -and plaster upon us which, brilliantly illuminated, looked to our dazed -and confused vision like flakes of fiery matter. It had then encountered -the altar, overturning the iron cross and wooden candlesticks only 3 -feet from the back of my head as I sat on the step, tearing the wreath -of artificial flowers or worsted rosettes strung on copper wire which -surrounded the figure of the Virgin, and scattering the fragments in all -directions. Next it glanced against the wall, tore down, or otherwise -damaged, some of the votive pictures (engravings), and splintered -portions of their frames into 'matchwood.' The odour of ozone was still -strong, the water from the melting hail was coming freely through the -roof, and the walls were in two places cracked to within 5 feet of the -ground. In fact, as a chapel, the building was ruined, though showing -little traces, externally, of the damage done, so that it is -possible--unless a stray shepherd happened to look in--that its -condition would for the first time become known upon the arrival of the -pilgrims on the eve of 5th August. - -"We stood long watching our departing foe, and then three very sobered -men dropped down silently and quickly that afternoon upon Susa, thinking -of what might have been our fate." - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -LANDSLIPS IN THE MOUNTAINS - - -"Sir W. Martin Conway has been good enough to allow me to extract from -_The Alps from End to End_ the following account of the destruction of -Elm. Mountain falls have a special interest for all who travel in -Switzerland, where the remains of so many are visible. - -"The Himalayas are, from a geological point of view, a young set of -mountain ranges; they still tumble about on an embarrassingly large -scale. The fall, which recently made such a stir, began on 6th September -1893. That day the Maithana Hill (11,000 feet), a spur of a large -mountain mass, pitched bodily rather than slid, into the valley. - -"'Little could be seen of the terrible occurrence, for clouds of dust -instantly arose, which darkened the neighbourhood and fell for miles -around, whitening the ground and the trees until all seemed to be snow -covered. The foot of the hill had been undermined by springs until there -was no longer an adequate base, and in the twinkling of an eye a large -part of the mountain slid down, pushed forward, and shot across the -valley, presenting to the little river a lofty and impervious wall, -against which its waters afterwards gathered. Masses of rocks were -hurled a mile away, and knocked down trees on the slopes across the -valley. Many blocks of dolomitic limestone, weighing from 30 to 50 tons, -were sent like cannon-shots through the air. The noise was terrific, and -the frightened natives heard the din repeated at intervals for several -days, for the first catastrophe was succeeded by a number of smaller -slides. Even five months after the mountain gave way, every rainy day -was succeeded by falls of rocks. A careful computation gives the weight -of the enormous pile of rubbish at 800,000,000 tons.' - -"The Himalayas are indeed passing through their dramatic geological -period, when they give rise to such landslips as this at relatively -frequent intervals. Plenty of landslips quite as big have been recorded -in the last half-century, and, amongst the remote and uninhabited -regions of the great ranges, numbers more of which no record is made -constantly happen. The catastrophic period has ended for the Alps. -Landslips on a great scale seldom occur there now; when they do occur, -the cause of them is oftener the activity of man than of natural forces. -But of a great landslip in the Alps details are sure to be observed, and -we are enabled to form a picture of the occurrence. When the Alps -tremble the nations quake; the Himalayas may shudder in their solitudes, -but the busy occidental world pays scant attention, unless gathering -waters threaten to spread ruin afar. Of the Gohna Lake we have been told -much, but little of the fall that caused it. Eye-witnesses appear not to -have been articulate. We can, however, form some idea of what it was -like from the minute and accurate account we possess of a great and -famous Alpine landslip. I refer to that which buried part of the village -of Elm, in Canton Glarus, on 11th September 1881.[13] - -"Elm is the highest village in the Sernf Valley. Its position is fixed -by the proximity of a meadow-flat of considerable extent. Above this -three minor valleys radiate, two of which are separated from one another -by a mountain mass, whose last buttress was the Plattenbergkopf, a hill -with a precipitous side and a flat and wooded summit, which used to face -the traveller coming up the main valley. It was this hill that fell. - -"The cause of the fall was simple, and reflects little credit on Swiss -communal government. About half-way up the hill there dips into it a bed -of fine slate, excellent for school-slates. In the year 1868 concessions -were given by the commune for working this slate for ten years without -any stipulation as to the method to be employed. Immense masses of the -rock were removed. A hole was made 180 mtres wide, and no supports were -left for the roof. It was pushed into the mountain to a depth of 65 -mtres! In 1878, when the concessions lapsed, the commune, by a small -majority, decided to work the quarry itself. Every burgher considered -that he had a right to work in the quarry when the weather was -unsuitable for farm labour. The place was therefore overcrowded on wet -days, and burdened with unskilful hands. The quarry, of course, did not -pay, and became a charge on the rates, but between eighty and one -hundred men drew wages from it intermittently. - -"The roof by degrees became visibly rotten. Lumps of rock used to fall -from it, and many fatal accidents occurred. The mass of the mountain -above the quarry showed a tendency to grow unstable, yet blasting went -forward merrily, and no precautions were taken. Cracks opened overhead -in all directions; water and earth used to ooze down through them. -Fifteen hundred feet higher up, above the top of the Plattenbergkopf, -the ground began to be rifted. In 1876 a large crack split the rock -across above the quarry roof, and four years later the mass thus -outlined fell away. In 1879 serious signs were detected of coming ruin -on a large scale. A great crack split the mountain across behind the -top of the hill. The existence of this crack was well known to the -villagers, who had a special name for it. It steadily lengthened and -widened. By August 1881 it was over four mtres wide, and swallowed up -all the surface drainage. Every one seems then to have agreed that the -mountain would ultimately fall, but no one was anxious. The last part of -August and the first days of September were very wet. On 7th September -masses of rock began to fall from the hill; more fell on the 8th, and -strange sounds were heard in the body of the rock; work was at last -suspended in the quarry. On the 10th a commission of incompetent people -investigated the hill, and pronounced that there was no immediate -danger. They, however, ordered that work should cease in the quarry till -the following spring, whereat the workmen murmured. All through the 10th -and the morning of the 11th falls of rock occurred every quarter of an -hour or so. Some were large. They kept coming from new places. The -mountain groaned and rumbled incessantly, and there was no longer any -doubt that it was rotten through and through. - -"The 11th of September was a wet Sunday. Rocks and rock-masses kept -falling from the Plattenberg. The boys of the village were all agog with -excitement, and could hardly be prevented by their parents from going -too near the hill. In the afternoon a number of men gathered at an inn -in the upper village, just at the foot of the labouring rocks, to watch -the falls. They called to Meinrad Rhyner, as he passed, carrying a -cheese from an alp, to join them, but he refused, 'not fearing for -himself, but for the cheese.' Another group of persons assembled in a -relative's house to celebrate a christening. A few houses immediately -below the quarry were emptied, but the people from them did not move -far. At four o'clock Schoolmaster Wyss was standing at his window, watch -in hand, registering the falls and the time of their occurrence. -Huntsman Elmer was on his doorstep looking at the quarry through a -telescope. Every one was more or less on the _qui vive_, but none -foresaw danger to himself. - -"Many of the people in the lower village, called Msli, which was the -best part of a mile distant from the quarry, and separated from it by a -large flat area, were quite uninterested. They were making coffee, -milking cows, and doing the like small domestic business. - -"Suddenly, at a quarter past five, a mass of the mountain broke away -from the Plattenbergkopf. The ground bent and broke up, the trees upon -it nodded, and folded together, and the rock engulfed them in its bosom -as it crashed down over the quarry, shot across the streams, dashing -their water in the air, and spread itself out upon the flat. A -greyish-black cloud hovered for a while over the ruin, and slowly passed -away. No one was killed by this fall, though the _dbris_ reached within -a dozen yards of the inn where the sightseers were gathered. The -inhabitants of the upper village now began to be a little frightened. -They made preparations for moving the aged and sick persons, and some of -their effects. People also came up from the lower villages to help, and -to see the extent of the calamity. Others came together to talk, and the -visitors who had quitted the inn returned to it. Some went into their -houses to shut the windows and keep out the dust. No one was in any -hurry. - -"This first fall came from the east side of the Plattenbergkopf; -seventeen minutes later a second and larger fall descended from the west -side. The gashes made by the two united below the peak, and left its -enormous mass isolated and without support. The second fall must have -been of a startling character, for Schoolmaster Wyss forgot his watch -after it. It overwhelmed the inn and four other houses, killed a score -of persons, and drove terror into all beholders, so that they started -running up the opposite hill. Oswald Kubli, one of the last to leave the -inn, saw this fall from close at hand. He was standing outside the inn -when he heard some one cry out: 'My God, here comes the whole thing -down!' Every one fled, most making for the Dniberg. 'I made four or -five strides, and then a stone struck Geiger and he fell without a word. -Pieces from the ruined inn flew over my head. My brother Jacob was -knocked down by them.' Again a dark cloud of dust enveloped the ruin. As -it cleared off, Huntsman Elmer could see, through his glass, the people -racing up the hill (the Dniberg) 'like a herd of terrified chamois.' -When they had reached a certain height most of them stood still and -looked back. Some halted to help their friends, others to take breath. - -"'Of those who were before me,' relates Meinrad Rhyner, 'some were for -turning back to the valley to render help, but I called to them to fly. -Heinrich Elmer was carrying boxes, and was only twenty paces behind me -when he was killed. There were also an old man and woman, who were -helping along their brother, eighty years old; they might have been -saved if they had left him. I ran by them, and urged them to hasten.' - -"Of all who took refuge on the Dniberg, only six escaped destruction by -the third fall, and they held on their way, and went empty-handed. Ruin -overtook the kind and the covetous together. - -"At this time, before the third fall, fear came also upon the cattle. A -cow, grazing far down the valley, bellowed aloud and started running for -the hillside with tail out-straightened. She reached a place of safety -before her meadow was overwhelmed. Cats and chickens likewise saved -themselves, and two goats sought and found salvation on the steps of the -parsonage. - -"During the four minutes that followed the second fall every one seems -to have been running about, with a tendency, as the moments passed, to -conclude that the worst was over. Then those who were watching the -mountain from a distance beheld the whole upper portion of the -Plattenbergkopf, 10,000,000 cubic mtres of rock, suddenly shoot from -the hillside. The forest upon it bent 'like a field of corn in the -wind,' before being swallowed up. 'The trees became mingled together -like a flock of sheep.' The hillside was all in movement, and 'all its -parts were playing together.' The mass slid, or rather shot down, with -extraordinary velocity, till its foot reached the quarry. Then the upper -part pitched forward horizontally, straight across the valley and on to -the Dniberg. People in suitable positions could at this moment clearly -see through beneath it to the hillside beyond. They also saw the people -in the upper village, and on the Dniberg, racing about wildly. No -individual masses of rock could be seen in the avalanche, except from -near at hand; it was a dense cloud of stone, sharply outlined below, -rounded above. The falling mass looked so vast that Schoolmaster Wyss -thought it was going to fill up the whole valley. A cloud of dust -accompanied it, and a great wind was flung before it. This wind swept -across the valley and overthrew the houses in its path 'like haycocks.' -The roofs were lifted first, and carried far, then the wooden portions -of the houses were borne bodily through the air, 'just as an autumn -storm first drives off the leaves and then the dead branches themselves -from the trees.' In many cases wooden ruins were dropped from the air on -to the top of the stone _dbris_ when the fall was at an end. -Eye-witnesses say that trees were blown about 'like matches,' that -houses were 'lifted through the air like feathers,' and 'thrown like -cards against the hillside,' 'that they bent, trembled, and then broke -up like little toys' before the avalanche came to them. Hay, furniture, -and the bodies of men were mixed with the house-ruins in the air. Some -persons were cast down by the blast and raised again. Others were -carried through the air and deposited in safe positions; others, again, -were hurled upward to destruction and dropped in a shattered state as -much as a hundred mtres away. Huntsman Elmer relates as follows: - -"'My son Peter was in Msli (nearly a mile from the quarry) with his -wife and child. He sought to escape with them by running. On coming to a -wall, he took the child from his wife and leaped over. Turning round, he -saw the woman reach out her hand to another child. At that moment the -wind lifted him, and he was borne up the hillside. My married daughter, -also in Msli, fled with two children. She held the younger in her arms -and led the other. This one was snatched away from her, but she found -herself, not knowing how, some distance up the hillside, lying on the -ground face downwards, with the baby beneath her, both uninjured.' - -"The avalanche, as has been said, shot with incredible swiftness -horizontally across the valley. It pitched on to the Dniberg, struck it -obliquely, and was thus deflected down the level and fertile -valley-floor, which it covered in a few seconds, to the distance of -nearly a mile and over its whole width, with a mass of rock _dbris_ -more than 30 feet thick. Most of the people on the hillside were -instantly killed, the avalanche falling on to them and crushing them -flat, 'as an insect is crushed into a red streak under a man's foot.' -Only six persons here escaped. Two of them were almost reached by the -rocks, the others were whirled aloft through the air and deposited in -different directions. One survivor describes how the dust-cloud overtook -him, 'and came between him and his breath!' He sank face downwards on -the ground, feeling powerless to go further. Looking back, he saw -'stones flying above the dust-cloud. In a moment all seemed to be over. -I stood up and climbed a few yards to a spring of water to wash out the -dust, which filled my mouth and nose' (all survivors on the Dniberg had -the same experience). 'All round was dark and buried in dust.' - -"It was only when the avalanche had struck the Dniberg and began to -turn aside from it--the work of a second or two--that the people in the -lower village, far down along the level plain, had any suspicion that -they were in danger. Twenty seconds later all was over. Some of them who -were on a bridge had just time to run aside, not a hundred yards, and -were saved, but most were killed where they stood. The avalanche swept -away half the village. Its sharply defined edge cut one house in two. -All within the edge were destroyed, all without were saved. Almost the -only persons wounded were those in the bisected house. Huntsman Elmer -with his telescope, and Schoolmaster Wyss with his watch, whose houses -were just beyond the area of ruin, beheld the dust-cloud come rolling -along, 'like smoke from a cannon's mouth, but black,' filling the whole -width of the flat valley to about twice the height of a house. The din -seemed to them not very great, and the wind, which, in front of the -cloud, carried the houses away like matchwood, did not reach them. -Others describe the crash and thunder of the fall as terrific; it -affected people differently. All agree that it swallowed up every other -sound, so that shrieks of persons near at hand were inaudible. The mass -seemed to slide or shoot along the ground rather than to roll. One or -two men had a race for life and won it, but most failed to escape who -were not already in a place of safety. Fridolin Rhyner, an -eleven-year-old boy, kept his head better than any one else in the -village, and succeeded in eluding the fall. He saw, too, 'how Kaspar -Zentner reached the bridge as the fall took place, and how he started -running as fast as he could, but was caught by the flood of rocks near -Rhyner's house; he jumped aside, however, into a field, limped across -it, got over the wall into the road, and so just escaped.' - -"The last phase of the catastrophe is the hardest to imagine, and was -the most difficult to foresee. The actual facts are these. Ten million -cubic mtres of rock fell down a depth (on an average) of about 450 -mtres, shot across the valley and up the opposite (Dniberg) slope to a -height of 100 mtres, where they were bent 25 out of their first -direction, and poured, almost like a liquid, over a horizontal plane, -covering it, uniformly, throughout a distance of 1500 mtres and over an -area of about 900,000 square mtres to a depth of from 10 to 20 mtres. -The internal friction of the mass and the friction between it and the -ground were insignificant forces compared with the tremendous momentum -that was generated by the fall. The stuff flowed like a liquid. No -wonder the parson, seeing the dust-cloud rolling down the valley, -thought it was only dust that went so far. His horror, when the cloud -cleared off and he beheld the solid grey carpet, beneath which one -hundred and fifteen of his flock were buried with their houses and their -fields, may be imagined. He turned his eyes to the hills, and lo! the -familiar Plattenbergkopf had vanished and a hole was in its place. - -"The roar of the fall ceased suddenly. Silence and stillness supervened. -Survivors stood stunned where they were. Nothing moved. Then a great cry -and wailing arose in the part of the village that was left. People began -to run wildly about, some down the valley, some up. As the dust-cloud -grew thinner the wall-like side of the ruin appeared. It was quite dry. -All the grass and trees in the neighbourhood were white with dust. Those -who beheld the catastrophe from a distance hurried down to look for -their friends. Amongst them was Burkhard Rhyner, whose house was -untouched at the edge of the _dbris_. He ran to it and found, he said, -'the doors open, a fire burning in the kitchen, the table laid, and -coffee hot in the coffee-pot, but no living soul was left.' All had run -forth to help or see, and been overwhelmed--wife, daughter, son, son's -wife, and two grandchildren. 'I am the sole survivor of my family.' Few -were the wounded requiring succour; few the dead whose bodies could be -recovered. Here and there lay a limb or a trunk. On the top of one of -the highest _dbris_ mounds was a head severed from its body, but -otherwise uninjured. Every dead face that was not destroyed wore a look -of utmost terror. The crushed remains of a youth still guarded with -fragmentary arms the body of a little child. There were horrors enough -for the survivors to endure. The memory of them is fresh in their minds -to the present day. - -"Such was the great catastrophe of Elm. The hollow in the hills, whence -the avalanche fell, can still be seen, and the pile of ruin against and -below the Dniberg; but almost all the rest of the _dbris_-covered area -has been reclaimed and now carries fields, which were ripening to -harvest when I saw them. The fallen rocks, some big as houses, have been -blasted level; soil has been carried from afar and spread over the ruin. -A channel, 40 feet deep or more, has been cut through it for the river, -so that the structure of the rock-blanket can still be seen. The roots -of young trees now grasp stones that took part in that appalling flight -from their old bed of thousands of years to their present place of -repose. The valley has its harvests again, and the villagers go about -their work as their forefathers did, but they remember the day of their -visitation, and to the stranger coming amongst them they tell the tragic -tale with tears in their eyes and white horror upon their faces." - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -SOME TERRIBLE EXPERIENCES - - -All must have noticed, summer after summer, in the daily papers, a -recital from time to time under some such heading as, "Perils of the -Alps," of a variety of disasters to Germans or Austrians on mountains -the names of which are unfamiliar to English people or even to English -climbers. Many young men, of little leisure and of slight means, develop -a passionate love for the peaks of their native land. The minor ranges -of Austria and Germany offer few difficulties to really first-class, -properly equipped parties, but nasty places can be found on most of -them, and the very fact that they do not boast of glaciers removes the -chief argument against solitary ascents. - -The Rax, near Vienna, is a mountain which can be reached in a few hours -from that city, and while a good path has been laid out to the summit, -many other routes requiring climbing--by climbing I mean the use of the -hands--are available for the hardier class of tourists. One route in -particular, that from the Kaiserbrunn through the Wolfsthal, appears to -be really difficult, and is unfit for a man to ascend alone unless he is -a climber of great skill. A terrible experience fell to the lot of a -young Viennese compositor, employed on the _Neue Freie Presse_, and by -name Emil Habl. He set out by himself to make the expedition referred -to, and, having fallen and broken his leg, he managed, thanks to his -pluck and endurance, to escape with his life. "Despite injuries which -made it impossible for him to stand," says a writer in one of Messrs -Newnes' publications, from which I am courteously permitted to quote, -"he yet succeeded in conveying himself from the scene of his accident -into the valley in the neighbourhood of human dwellings. Three dreadful -days and three awful nights lasted that memorable descent--a descent -which can easily be made in two hours by any one able to walk. It may -almost certainly be said that the case is without a parallel in the -annals of Alpine accidents." - -Herr Habl had ascended the Rax on previous occasions, and twice before -by the Wolfsthal. It is the custom on many of the easier Austrian -mountains to mark the way by painted strips on the rocks. These are -sometimes very useful, but occasionally they tempt the tourist into -tracks which may be beyond his powers, or lure him on till, at last, -losing sight of them, he is induced to strike out a route--and perhaps -an impracticable one--for himself. The Wolfsthal route up the Rax is -marked in green, but the paint had worn off in many places, and after a -time Herr Habl could no longer trace it. At last the way was barred by a -precipice, but while pausing in uncertainty beneath it, the climber -noticed two iron clamps fixed far apart on the face of the cliff, and -argued that they must at one time have supported ladders and formed, -perhaps, part of a hunter's path. He made an attempt to scramble up the -rock, in spite of the absence of the ladder, but when more than 30 feet -up saw that it was impossible to scale it. He therefore determined to -return, but a loose stone, giving way beneath him, he was precipitated -from his precarious hold, and fell with a crash straight to the bottom. -This happened at about 7.30 A.M., and for a long time he lay -unconscious. When he came to himself again he was suffering greatly. - -"The first thing I noticed," he says, "was a terrible pain in my right -leg, my head, and left side; I was also bleeding profusely from several -wounds. At the same time, considering the fearful fall I had had, I felt -thankful I had not been killed outright. On trying to get up I -discovered, to my utter horror, that I had broken my right shin-bone. It -was quite impossible to rise. The break was about 6 inches below the -knee, and at the first glance I knew it to be a very bad fracture. It -was what the doctors call an 'open' fracture--that is, the bone -projected through the skin." - -It was in vain that he shouted for help. Tourists seldom pass that way, -and it was useless to expect any one to hear him. To make matters worse, -the weather had changed, and rain now fell heavily. But Herr Habl did -not lose courage. He writes: "Unless I wanted miserably to die a -long-drawn-out, hideous death from hunger and thirst, I knew _I must -save myself_. I decided not to lose another moment in fruitless -brooding, and waiting, and shouting, but to act at once. - -"I perceived that first of all I must set my broken leg and bandage it -in some rough fashion. In spite of the agony it caused me, I rolled over -and over the ground in different directions like a bale of goods--a few -yards here and a few yards there--until I had collected a sufficient -quantity of fallen branches, bits of fir and moss; this strange -collecting process took me some hours. The next thing was to tear off -the sleeves of my shirt and such other parts of my underwear as I could -spare. On my mountain excursions I always took with me a box containing -iodoform gauze and cambric; and now these things were more than welcome. - -"At last, then, I was ready to begin the operation. But, good heavens, -what agony! My deadliest enemy I would not wish such excruciating pains -as I suffered when setting the poor splintered bone--which, be it -remembered, was not broken straight across. The dreadful splinters, -indeed, dug deep into my flesh. Not regarding the pain (although nearly -fainting therewith) I exerted my whole force, and at last succeeded in -getting the bone into what, as far as I could judge, was its right -position. Then I wound the iodoform gauze round it, and over that I put -the cambric, the bits of underclothing, and a layer of moss. Next in the -queer operation came my alpenstock and some boughs in place of splints; -and finally I tied the whole together with the string, my hat-line, and -neck-tie." - -During the rest of the day the agonising descent continued, down rocks -which were difficult even for a sound man to ascend. As evening -approached Herr Habl bethought him of the need of food, but, alas! all -was gone from his knapsack, doubtless left at the spot where the -bandages had been put on. To regain this point was out of the question, -so berries and leaves were resorted to, to appease the craving of -hunger. - -That night was passed in pain and weariness. The rain never ceased, the -poor wounded man was soaked to the skin. The next day, from dawn to dark -the fearful descent continued, and was followed by another night of -indescribable misery. The morning after Herr Habl could hardly drag -himself a yard, and the temptation to lie down and await the end was -very great. Still, for the sake of his parents at home, he continued his -efforts, though bleeding now from the contact of the sharp rocks over -which he pushed himself in a half-lying, half-sitting posture. By four -o'clock that afternoon it seemed as if human endurance could bear no -more, and for two hours he lay in an awful apathy he could not shake -off. Then, when all hope seemed over, help came, for he heard the sound -of human voices, and this so stirred him that once more he began to -crawl downward, though unable to obtain any reply to his cries for -assistance. Another night passed, and during it, for the first time, he -got some sleep. The next morning, he once more dragged his poor -lacerated body downwards and at last came in sight of some houses. -Calling feebly for help, he was delighted beyond measure to receive an -answer, and soon he was carried to Htel Kaiserbrunn, and the same -evening transported to the hospital at Vienna. He concludes his most -interesting account by remarking: "I do not think that my accident, -terrible as it is, has cured me of my love of mountaineering. But -certainly the remembrance of those three terrible days and nights will -deter me from again undertaking difficult climbs by myself." - -[Illustration: A GLACIER LAKE. By Royston Le Blond.] - -[Illustration: TAKING OFF THE ROPE AT THE END OF THE CLIMB.] - -[Illustration: AMONGST THE SRACS.] - -[Illustration: WATER AT LAST. - -_To face p. 297._] - -An adventure, having a happier termination, befell some friends of mine -in the Bregaglia group, owing to the marking of a route with paint. -The district was but little known to them, so they were glad to follow -where the marks led. One of the party, writing in _The Alpine Journal_, -says: - -"The descent began by a grass ledge. After a few yards this was suddenly -closed by overhanging rocks. Franois, who was first, appeared to us to -plunge down a precipice. He answered our criticism by pointing to the -red triangles. They indicated the only means of advance. It was -requisite to go down a dozen feet of nearly vertical rock by the help of -two grass tufts, and then for several yards to walk across a horizontal -crack which gave foot-hold varying from 2 inches to nothing. Nominal -support--help in balance--could be gained at first by digging axes into -grass overhead; further on hand-hold was obtainable. Franois walked -across without a moment's hesitation, but we did not despise the rope. -This _mauvais pas_ would not, perhaps, trouble younger cragsmen. It came -upon us unprepared and when somewhat tired. But to indicate a route -including such an obstacle to unsuspecting tourists as a Station Path is -surely rash. A practical joke that may lead to fatal results should only -be resorted to under exceptional circumstances--as, for example, in the -case of an hotel bore. There can be little doubt that in this instance -the Milanese section entrusted their paint-pot to a conscious, if -unconscientious, humorist; for we found afterwards that he had continued -his triangles through the village, along the high road, and finished up -only on the ticket office." - -The following terrible experience did not, it is true, happen to a party -of mountaineers, but as _The Alpine Journal_, from which I take my -account, has considered a notice of it appropriate to its pages, I -include it amongst my tales. - -"A distinguished aeronaut, Captain Charbonnet, of Lyons, married a young -girl from Turin. On the evening of their wedding, in October, 1893, they -set out in Captain Charbonnet's balloon 'Stella,' and covered about 10 -miles on their way towards Lyons. - -"Next morning, accompanied by two young Italians named Durando and -Botto, one of whom had made many previous ascents with Captain -Charbonnet, they started again. Stormy weather seemed to be brewing, and -after rising to a height of 3000 mtres they were caught in a current. -At Saluggia they nearly touched ground, then leapt up again to 4000, and -presently to 6000 mtres. About 2.30 P.M. the balloon began to descend -rapidly, and they had some difficulty in stopping it at 3000 mtres. - -[Illustration: The balloon "Stella" starting from Zermatt to make the -first passage of the Alps by balloon. - -_To face page 293._] - -[Illustration: A moment after the balloon started.] - -"Here they were in dense clouds, and bitterly cold; quite ignorant, -moreover, of their position. Captain Charbonnet made his crew lie -down in the car, himself leaning out in order to try if he could catch a -glimpse of any point from which he could learn his bearings. The balloon -was drifting at a great rate, and nothing could be done to check it. -Presently there was a shock, and Captain Charbonnet was thrown to the -bottom of the car, by a heavy blow over his left eye. - -"The balloon rebounded, and dashing across a gully struck the other side -of it, and it finally settled down on a steep rocky spur on the east -side of the Bessanese (3632 mtres = 11,917 feet), just above the small -glacier of Salau. It had struck the wall of the mountain which faces the -Rifugio Gastaldi, at a height of about 3000 mtres (9843 feet). - -"The aeronauts reached the ground a good deal shaken and bruised, but -none of them, except the leader, suffering from any serious injuries.... -Their sole provision was one bottle of wine; but they were fairly well -off for covering, and they cut up the balloon to supply deficiencies. In -the night a violent storm came on, to add to their misery. In spite of -his injuries, Captain Charbonnet kept up the spirits of his companions -as well as might be, but towards morning his powers failed, and when day -dawned his young wife, a girl of eighteen, had some difficulty in -bringing him round. - -"They started to descend the snow-slope, Durando going first, and making -steps to the best of his power with his feet 'and with a long key which -he happened to have in his pocket.' Of course they had neither nails nor -poles; and, by a fatal imprudence, they did not tie themselves together, -though ropes must have been in plenty in the wreck of the balloon. - -"Presently Charbonnet slipped. He was held up by his wife and Botto; but -a few minutes later he disappeared into a hidden crevasse. The others -could see him far below, but as he neither moved nor answered their -call, they rightly assumed that he was beyond the reach of any human -help, and proceeded downwards. - -"With infinite difficulty, owing to their utter ignorance of the -country, and after another night spent in the open air, they found a -path which brought them to the hut under the Rocca Venoni. Thence a -shepherd guided them to the Cantina della Mussa, where they were at -first taken for deserters or spies; the lady, it should be said, had -been obliged to put on a suit of her husband's clothes, her own having -been torn to pieces. - -"The sight of her hair and bracelets convinced the inhabitants of the -true state of the case; a telegram was sent to Turin, and a message to -Balme, and a search party came up from the latter place in the -afternoon. Captain Charbonnet's body was recovered the next day. It was -found at the bottom of a crevasse more than 60 feet deep, and completely -doubled up; but medical examination showed that his death was primarily -due to the injury received when the balloon first struck." - -The first passage of the Alps by balloon was made in September 1903, by -Captain Spelterini, of Zrich, accompanied by Dr Hermann Seiler and -another friend. They started from Zermatt, crossed the Mischabel group, -passed over the valley of Saas, then rose above the Weissmies range, and -approached the Lago Maggiore so closely that they were able to converse -with the passengers of a steamer. They then rose again and spent the -night above the mountains not far from the Gotthard. The next day it -would have been possible to clear the Bernese Alps and descend somewhere -near Lucerne, but though Dr Seiler, who is a climber and was fully -equipped for a descent above the snow line, urged the attempt being made -to cross the chain, Captain Spelterini and his friend, unused to the -aspect of the higher peaks, considered it more prudent to descend, and -so the expedition came to an end after twenty hours aloft, during which -no discomfort from cold was experienced. - -When an accident happens in the Alps involving loss of life, it is not -difficult to learn whatever facts may be known with regard to it, but -when climbers have a narrow escape from death the occurrence is often -hushed up and nothing said or written about the matter. And yet it is -just the narrow escapes that furnish the most interesting Alpine -narratives. Amongst them are few more exciting than a mishap on the -Matterhorn which happened in 1895, and is admirably described by an -onlooker, Mr Ernest Elliot Stock, in the pages of one of Messrs Newnes' -periodicals, from which I am courteously permitted to quote a portion of -the tale. - -Mr Stock's party consisted of himself, his sister, Mr Grogan (the -well-known traveller who first crossed Africa from South to North), Mr -Broadbent, and the guides, P. A. and Alois Biner, Peter Perrin, and -Zurmatter. An American of no climbing experience, with Joseph Biner and -Felix Julen, was on the mountain at the same time, and both parties -having made the ascent by the ordinary route, were coming down the same -way, and had descended in safety to just below "Moseley's Platte" when -the incident which so nearly cost them their lives took place. They were -on a steep slope, and the American party was slightly in advance. Mr -Stock writes: - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE HRNLI RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE FURGG GLACIER.] - -[Illustration: JOSEPH BINER.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN HUT. - -_To face p. 302_] - -"We had been working slowly, and at a slight zig-zag, down this for some -150 feet, only one member of the party moving at a time, and keeping -carefully within the steps cut by the leader, when suddenly a flat -stone, some 6 inches across, became detached from a small pile either to -the side of or directly behind me--possibly loosened by our passage or -picked up by the rope as it tautened between myself and Peter Biner, who -came next. Peter's cry of warning was echoed by his brother at the tail -of the party, and I half turned to see it slipping past on the right. - -"Reaching out with my axe I endeavoured to stop it, but its impetus had -become too great. Getting upon its edge it rolled and struck a small -rock; then jumped some 20 feet down the ice-slope, narrowly missing -Perrin and 'America,' and struck again upon a larger and flatter rock, -when, amidst a flight of smaller stones, it bounded outwards and -downwards, striking the leading guide, Joseph Biner, full and square on -the head. He fell as though he had been shot, dragging 'America' after -him amidst a perfect shower of snow and stones. Julen, who came third, -with the greatest presence of mind drove his ice-axe hard and deep into -the ice, took a turn round it with his left arm, and, though dragged -violently from his steps, to our intense relief held on. - -"But we were in an awkward plight. Poor Joseph half lay, half hung, -without movement, at the end of some 30 feet of rope, bleeding copiously -from a deep gash in the head and another across the forehead caused by -his fall; 'America' clung to a small rock projecting from the snow, -beating a tattoo with his boots on the ice and wailing dismally; Julen -held the two by favour of his ice-axe and firmly planted feet only. For -a space no one moved, excepting to get such anchorage as was possible -upon the spur of the moment, each expecting a rope-jerk, the forerunner -of a swift and battered end in the ice-fall of the Furgg Glacier -thousands of feet below. - -"The guides for a time seemed utterly stunned by the catastrophe, and to -all suggestions could only reply with muttered prayers and exclamations. -So exasperating did this become at last, with the thought of the man -below bleeding to death, if not dead already, that Mr Grogan, who had -vainly been endeavouring to bring the guides to a sense of the position, -quietly slipped the rope, and, amid a storm of protest from them, -traversed out some distance to avoid a patch of loose stones, and -descended inwards again, cutting his steps as he went, till he reached a -spot immediately below the wounded man. Poor Joseph hung with his head -buried in a patch of snow, and in an extremely awkward position to reach -from above. Mr Grogan, however, refused to be daunted by the -difficulties, and we were treated to a fine piece of ice-craft during -his descent." - -After a little time Mr Grogan managed to cut a seat in the slope of ice -and placing the still breathing but insensible man in it, he bandaged -the wounds on his head, and before long had the satisfaction of seeing -him recover his senses. With great difficulty, as he was very weak and -shaken, poor Joseph was helped down the mountain, and at last every one -arrived safe and sound at the lower hut. - -There is no doubt that Joseph owed his life to Mr Grogan's skill, -promptness, and courage. Had the travellers in the party following -"America's" been of the usual type of tourist, who is hauled up and let -down the Matterhorn, one dare not think what would probably have been -the result, for the description Mr Stock gives of the behaviour of his -guides seems in no way exaggerated. I edit this account in sight of the -very spot where the accident occurred, and I have made careful enquiries -here as to the accuracy of the story, and am assured that it is true in -every detail. It is a pleasure to feel that a fellow-countryman should -show so brilliant an example to those who were not willing and probably -would have hardly been able to rescue their comrade, although to attempt -such a task was one of the prior obligations of their profession. - -To be bombarded by falling stones in the Alps is bad enough. To be -hurled from one's foot-hold by a flock of eagles seems to me even more -appalling. Though on one occasion, when on the slopes of a bleak and -rocky peak in Lapland, in company with my husband, a pair of eagles came -screaming so close to us that we drove them away by brandishing our -ice-axes and throwing stones at them, I did not till recently believe -that there could be positive danger to a climbing party from an -onslaught by these birds. It was only a few weeks ago that taking up one -of Messrs Newnes' publications I came upon an account of a tragedy in -the Maritime Alps caused by an attack from eagles. On applying to the -editor of the magazine in question, he kindly allowed me to make some -extracts from a striking article by Mons. Antoine Neyssel. This -gentleman with a friend, Mons. Joseph Monand, was making a series of -ascents in the Maritime Alps with Sospello as their headquarters. From -here they took a couple of guides and got all ready for a climb on the -following morning, 23rd July. During the evening the amazing news -reached them that a postman, while crossing a high pass, had been -attacked and nearly killed by eagles. They at once went into the cottage -where the poor man lay unconscious on two chairs, a pool of blood -beneath him and his clothes torn to ribbons. A few days later he died -from the terrible injuries he had received. - -Though much shocked at the sad event, the climbers believed that their -party of four would be quite safe, for each man had an ice-axe and some -carried rifles. So the next morning they set out, and, ascending higher -and higher, reached the glacier and put on the rope. They had forgotten -all about the ferocious birds when suddenly, as they traversed the upper -edge of a crevasse near the summit of their peak, the leading guide -stopped with an exclamation of horror. Close to them the ground was -strewn with feathers and marked with blood, doubtless the spot where the -postman was attacked. They passed on, however, and remembering that they -were a party of four, felt reassured. But soon after weird cries came to -their ears from below, followed by the whirr and beating of great wings. -Looking cautiously over the abyss, they saw a fight of eagles in -progress; feathers flew in the air and strange sounds came out of the -seething mass. It seemed to rise towards them, and in their insecure -position on the edge of a crevasse, they were badly placed to resist an -attack. The foot-hold was of frozen and slippery snow. Suddenly the -eagles burst up and around them. The guides immediately cut the rope and -each person did what he could to save himself. "Wherever possible," says -Mons. Neyssel, "we simply raced over the frozen snow like maniacs. In -another moment they dashed upon us like an avalanche. I heard a shot--I -suppose Monand fired, but I did not: I do not know why. The attack was -quite too dreadful for words. Speaking for myself, I remember that the -eagles struck me with stunning force with their wings, their hooked -beaks, and strong talons. Every part of my body seemed to be assailed -simultaneously. It was a fierce struggle for life or death. Strangely -enough, I remember nothing of what happened to my companions. I neither -saw nor heard anything of them after the first great rush of the eagles. -It is a miracle I was not hurled to death into the crevasse. - -"Do not ask me how long this weird battle lasted. It may have been five -or six minutes, or a quarter of an hour. I do not know. I grew feebler, -and felt almost inclined to give up the struggle, when the blood began -to trickle down my face and nearly blinded me. I knew that every moment -might be my last, and that I might be hurled into the crevasse. -Strangely enough, the prospect did not appal me. From this time onward I -defended myself almost mechanically, inclined every moment to give up -and lie down. - -"I gave no thought to the guides and my poor friend Monand. If I am -judged harshly for this, I regret it; but I could not help it. All at -once I heard loud, excited voices, but thought that these were merely -fantastic creations of my own brain. In a moment or two, however, I -could distinguish a number of men laying about them fiercely with -sticks, and beating off the eagles." - -The villagers, having watched the ascent through a telescope had come to -the rescue and had saved the lives of the writer and his two guides. His -poor friend, however, was dashed into the crevasse, at the bottom of -which his body was found five days later. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -FALLING STONES AND FALLING BODIES - - -I am indebted to the editor of _The Cornhill_ and the author of an -article entitled "The Cup and the Lip" for permission to reprint -portions of a paper containing much shrewd wisdom, several accounts of -narrow escapes, and withal of a wittiness and freshness that brings to -the reader a keen blast of Alpine air and the memory, if by chance he be -a climber, of his own early days upon the mountains. - -[Illustration: A HOT DAY IN SUMMER ON A MOUNTAIN TOP.] - -[Illustration: A SUMMIT NEAR SAAS.] - -[Illustration: LUNCHEON ON THE WAY TO THE HUT IN WINTER.] - -[Illustration: LUNCHEON IN SUMMER ON THE TOP OF A GLACIER PASS. - -_To face p. 310._] - -The writer, after remarking that even in these days when the traveller, -by the purchase of a few climbing requisites, is inclined to consider -himself a mountaineer before he has ever set foot on a peak, goes on to -say that, in reality, "for the most of us the craft is long to learn, -the conquering hard. And in the experience of many there are two -distinct phases. There is the time when, flushed with youth and victory, -you seem to go on from strength to strength, faster from year to year, -more confident in foot and hand, more scornful of the rope which you -have seen so often used, not as a means of safety, but as an -assistance to the progression of the weaker brethren, until one day your -foot unaccountably finds the step too small, or the bit of rock comes -away in your hand, or the outraged spirit of the mountains smites you -suddenly with a stone, and all is changed. Henceforth every well-worn -and half-despised precaution has a new meaning for you; it becomes a -point of honour to walk circumspectly, to turn the rope round every -helpful projection when the leader moves, and to mark and keep your -distance; and you begin to catch a little of the wisdom of your fathers. -It is not until the slip comes--as it comes to all--that you believe a -slip is possible; and were it not for slips the continual advance of cup -to lip might become in time monotonous and irksome, and mountaineering -nothing but a more laborious and elaborate form of walking up a damp -flight of stairs. But when it has come, and there has passed away the -result of the consequent shock to your self-esteem, and to other even -more sensitive portions of your person, there succeeds a new pride of -achievement, and you will have the advantages of the converted sinner -over the ninety-and-nine just persons whose knickerbockers are still -unriven. Furthermore, you will have commenced the graduate stage of your -mountaineering education. Unlucky, too, will you be if your experience -has not given you something more than a juster estimate of your own -moral and physical excellence; for your misfortune, if you have chosen -your companions aright, will suddenly turn your grumbling hireling into -a friend as gentle and as patient as a nurse, and disclose in those who -were your friends qualities of calm and steadfastness never revealed in -the fret of the valley; while, if you need wine and oil for your wounds, -when you reach home again, you will find in the inn some English doctor, -asking nothing better than to devote the best part of his holiday to the -gratuitous healing of the stranger. - -[Illustration: A TEDIOUS SNOW SLOPE TO ASCEND.] - -[Illustration: A SITTING GLISSADE AND A QUICK DESCENT.] - -[Illustration: A GLACIER-CAPPED SUMMIT.] - -[Illustration: ITALY TO THE LEFT, SWITZERLAND TO THE RIGHT. - -_To face p. 312._] - -"The form of my own awakening was not such as to require wine or oil or -consolation, and indeed, had I spoken of it at the time, would have -scarcely escaped ridicule. We had reached the summit of our pass, and -the guides and myself had decided that the steep wall of snow on the -further side was an admirable place for a glissade. Accordingly, we went -through the inevitable ritual of the summit, consumed as much sour bread -and wine as we could, with unerring inaccuracy applied the wrong names -to all the newly disclosed mountain-tops, adjusted the rope and prepared -for the descent. Unfortunately, we omitted to explain the particular -form of pleasure in which we were about to indulge to my companion, who -was ignorant alike of mountaineering and the German tongue. The result -was simple: the second guide, who was in front, set off with his feet -together and his axe behind him; I followed in as correct an imitation -of his attitude as I could induce my body to assume; but the novice -stood still on the crest of the pass to 'await in fitting silence the -event,' and the rope tightened. The jerk, after nearly cutting me in -two, laid me on my back in the snow, and was then transmitted to the -guide, who was also pulled off his feet and plunged head foremost down. -Our combined weights drew after us both my companion and the chief -guide, who was taken unawares, and both came crushing upon me. We rolled -over and over, mutually pounding one another as we rolled; hats and -spectacles and axes preceded us, and huge snowballs followed in our -wake, until, breathless and humiliated, we had cleared the _schrund_, -and came to an ignominious halt on the flat snow below. - -"This was no very rude introduction to my climbing deficiencies, but -before the end of the season I had felt fear at the pit of my stomach. -We (that is A. T. and myself) had scrambled up an Austrian mountain, -and, on our way down, had come to where the little glacier intervenes -between the precipice and the little moraine heaps above the forest. The -glacier would hardly deserve the name in any other part of the Alps, so -small is it; but it makes up for what it lacks in size by its exceeding -steepness; the hardness of its ice, and the ferocity (if one may -attribute personal characteristics to Nature) of the rock walls which -keep in its stream on either hand, hem it in so closely that I think it -must be always in deep shadow, even in the middle of a June day. - -"Here you must cross it very nearly on a level, and then skirt down its -further side between ice and rock for a few feet before you come to a -suitable place for the crossing of the big crevasse below you; and then -a short slide down old avalanche _dbris_ shoots you deliciously into -the sun again. The crossing of the glacier in the steps cut by the -numerous parties who have passed on previous days is an extremely simple -affair. But you must not hurry, for a slip could not be checked, and -would probably finish in the before-mentioned crevasse. We started, -however, in some fear; for a party ascending the mountains favoured us -with continual showers of stones of all sizes, and the higher they -climbed the more viciously came their artillery. Hence I was nervous and -apt to go carelessly when we reached the middle of the ice, and here the -noise began. I heard a strange, whizzing, whirring noise which sounded -strangely familiar, accompanied by a physical shiver on my part and a -curious knocking together of the knees; again and again it came, -followed each time by a slight dull thud; and, looking at the rocks -below us on each side, I saw a little white puff of dust rising at -every concussion. Then I knew why the sound seemed familiar. I was -reminded how, as a panting schoolboy, I had toiled up a long dusty road -to a certain down with a rifle much too large for me, in the vain hope -of shooting my third-class, and how, as we bruised our shoulders at the -200 yards' range, another young gentleman firing at the 400 yards at the -parallel range on the left, had mistaken his mark and fired across our -heads at the target beyond us on the right. Everything was present: the -indescribable whirring of the bullet, its horrible invisibility while it -flew, and the grey little cloud as it flattened itself on the white -paint of the target. The sensation was horrible, the tendency to hurry -irresistible, and but for my companion I should have risked slip and -crevasse and everything to get out of the line of fire. But my companion -remained absolutely steady; while he poured forth curses in every -language and every _patois_ ever spoken in the Italian Tyrol, he still -moved his feet as deliberately, improved the steps with as much care and -minuteness as if he were a Chamonix guide conducting a Frenchman on the -Mer de Glace. I know he felt the position as acutely as I did, for when, -a week later, we had to cross the same place under a similar fire, and -the third member of the party was sent on in front with a large rope to -recut the steps, he turned to me with impressive simplicity, and said, -'_Adesso quello in grande pericolo_. If he is hit, we cannot save -him.' How long we took to cross I do not know. But when at last we -reached the other bank we cast the rope off with one impulse, and, -bending under the shelter of the rocks, ran where I had found climbing -hard in the morning, jumped the _bergschrund_, fell and rolled down the -snow under a final volley from the mountain, and lay long by the stream -panting and safe. - -"I suspect the danger here was far more apparent than real. My next -adventure with a falling stone was more real than I like to think of. -Four of us had been scrambling round the rocks beside the Ventina -Glacier, and were returning to our camp to lunch. By bad luck, as it -turned out, I reached level ground first, and, lying on my back amongst -great boulders, watched with amusement the struggles of my companions -who were about a hundred feet above me, apparently unable to get up or -down. They were screaming to me, but the torrent drowned their voices, -and I smoked my pipe in contentment. _Suave mari magno._ At last they -moved, and with them the huge rock which they had been endeavouring to -uphold and shouting to me to beware of. It crashed down towards me, but -I determined to stop where I was. The roughness of the ground would have -hindered my escape to any distance, and I calculated on stepping quickly -aside when my enemy had declared himself for any particular path of -attack. So I did, but the stone at that moment broke in pieces, and, -quick as I was with desperation, one fragment was quicker still. It -caught me, glancing as I turned between the shoulder and the elbow, only -just touching me, as I suppose, for the bone was quite unhurt. Up I went -into the air and down I came among the stones, with all the wind knocked -out of me, large bruises all over me, not hurt, but very much -frightened. - -[Illustration: UNPLEASANT GOING OVER LOOSE STONES.] - -[Illustration: ON THE CREST OF AN OLD MORAINE. - -_To face p. 317._] - -"Such experiences as this leave no very lasting impression, and might -just as easily happen were the party accompanied by the best of guides. -But I hardly think that any guide would have been crack-brained enough -to take part in two expeditions which taught me what it feels like to -slip on rock and ice respectively. The first slip took place during the -winter. With one companion I was climbing in a long and not very -difficult gully on a Welsh mountain. The frost had just broken, and -there was more water in the pitches than was quite pleasant. It was very -cold water, and my hands, which had been frost-bitten the week before, -were still swathed in bandages. Hence progress was very slow, and at -last my friend took the lead to spare me. He was climbing over a big -overhanging stone jammed between the walls of the gully and forming an -excellent spout for the water, which was thus poured conveniently down -his neck. I stood on the shelving floor of the gully in perfect safety, -and watched the shower-bath, which was gradually exhausting him. He -asked for his axe, and I, in a moment of madness, came near and handed -it up; his legs, which were all I could then see of him, were kicking in -the water about 5 feet above my head. What happened next I do not know, -but I shall always maintain that, seeing an eligible blade of grass -above him, he plunged the adze in and hauled with both hands. The blade -resented such treatment, and came out. Anyhow he fell on my head, and we -commenced a mad career down the way we had ascended, rather rolling than -falling, striking our heads and backs against the rocks, and apparently -destined for the stony valley upon which we had looked down between our -legs for hours. People who have escaped drowning say that, in what was -their struggle for life, their minds travelled back over their whole -history. I know that my brain at this moment suddenly acquired an -unusual strength. In a few seconds we were safe, but in those seconds -there was time for centuries of regret. There was no fear; that was to -come later. But I felt vividly that I was present as a spectator of my -own suicide, and thought myself a feeble kind of fool. Had it been on -the Dru or the Meije, I thought, it might have been worth it, but, -half-drowned, to plunge a poor 40 feet over the next pitch on a hill -not 3000 feet high, with a carriage road in sight, and a girl driving in -the cows for milking in Nant Francon! We did not roll far, and stuck -between the walls of the gully, where they narrowed. Then I arose and -shook myself, unhurt. My companion made me light his pipe, which cheered -me very much, and we each partook of an enormous mutton sandwich. Help -was near, for another party of three was climbing in the next gully, and -came to our shouts; one ran down to the farm for a hurdle, the rest -began the descent. For hours we seemed to toil, for my companion, though -with admirable fortitude he supported the pain of movement, had -temporarily no power over his legs and the lower part of his body. I -could do little, but the others worked like blacks, and just at dark we -reached the farm and the ministrations of a Welsh doctor, who told my -friend, quite erroneously, that there was nothing the matter with him, -pointed out a swelling on my face as big as a pigeon's egg, which, he -said, would probably lead to erysipelas, and then departed into the -darkness. - -"A fall on ice has something in it more relentless, though, until the -last catastrophe, less violent. We had all been victims to the -flesh-pots of the valley, and were, perhaps, hardly fit for a long -ice-slope, when we began to cut up the last few feet to gain the _arte_ -of our mountain. The incline seemed to me very steep, and, third on the -rope, I was watching the leader at his labours, half pitying him for his -exertions, half envying him his immunity from the ice fragments which he -was sending down to me. Below me the fourth man had barely left the -great flat rock on which we had breakfasted; there was no reason to -think of danger; when to my horror I saw the leader cut a step, put out -his foot slowly, and then very slowly and deliberately sway over and -fall forwards and downwards against the ice. We were in a diagonal line, -but almost immediately beneath one another, and he swung quietly round -like a pendulum, his axe holding him to the slope, until he was -immediately beneath the second man. Very slowly, as it seemed, the rope -grew taut; the weight began to tug at his waist; and then he, too, -slowly and reflectively in the most correct mountaineering attitude, as -though he were embarking upon a well-considered journey, began to slide. -Now was the time for me to put into practice years of patient training. -I dug my toes in and stiffened my back, anchored myself to the ice, and -waited for the strain. It was an unconscionable time coming, and, when -it came, I still had time to think that I could bear it. Then the weight -of 27 stone in a remorseless way quietly pulled me from my standpoint, -as though my resistance were an impudence. Still, like the others, I -held my axe against the ice and struggled like a cat on a polished -floor, always seeing the big flat rock, and thinking of the bump with -which we should bound from it, and begin our real career through the -air; when suddenly the bump came and we all fell together in a heap on -to the rock and the fourth man, who had stepped back upon it, my -crampons running into his leg, and my axe, released from the pressure, -going off through the air on the very journey which I had anticipated -for us all. The others were for a fresh attack on the malicious -mountain; but I was of milder mood, and very soon, torn and wiser, we -were off on a slower but more convenient path to the valley than had -seemed destined for us a few minutes before. But our cup was not yet -full. Having no axe with which to check a slip, I was placed at the head -of the line, and led slowly down, floundering a good deal for want of my -usual support. The great couloir was seamed across with a gigantic -crevasse, the angle of the slope being so sharp that the upper half -overhung, and we had only crossed in the morning by standing on the -lower lip, cutting hand-holes in the upper, and shoving up the leader -from the shoulder of the second man: hence, in descending, our position -was similar to that of a man on the mantel-shelf who should wish to -climb down into the fire itself. We chose the obvious alternative of a -jump to the curb, which was, I suppose, about 15 feet below us and made -of steep ice with a deep and deceptive covering of snow. I jumped and -slid away with this covering, to be arrested in my course by a rude -jerk. I turned round indignant; but my companions were beyond my -reproaches. One by one, full of snow, eloquent, and bruised, they issued -slowly from the crevasse into which I had hurled them, and, heedless of -the humour of the situation, gloomily urged me downwards. - -"Some hours still passed before we reached our friendly Italian hut, -left some days before for a raid into Swiss territory; there on the -table were our provisions and shirts as we had left them, and a solemn -array of bottles full of milk carried up during our absence by our -shepherd friends; and there, on the pile, in stinging comment on our -late proceedings, lay a slip of paper, the tribute of some Italian -tourist, bearing the inscription 'Omaggio ai bravi Inglesi ignoti.' We -felt very much ashamed. - -"When the soup has been eaten and the pipes are lighted, and you sit -down outside your hut for the last talk before bed, you will find your -guides' tongues suddenly acquire a new eloquence, and, if you are a -novice at the craft, will be almost overwhelmed by the catalogue of -misfortune which they will repeat to you. And so, too, upon us in the -winter months comes the temptation to dwell on things done long ago and -ill done, and, as we write of the sport for others, we give a false -impression of peril and hardihood in things that were little more than -matter for a moment's laughter. I too must plead guilty to a well-meant -desire to make your flesh creep. - -[Illustration: AN AWKWARD BIT OF CLIMBING.] - -[Illustration: GUIDES AT ZERMATT.] - -[Illustration: A LARGE PARTY FOR A SMALL HUT.] - -[Illustration: AU REVOIR. - -_To face p. 322._] - -"Mountaineering by skilled mountaineers is about as dangerous as hunting -in a fair country, and requires about as much pluck as to cross from the -Temple to the Law Courts at midday. Difficult mountaineering is for the -unskilled about as dangerous as riding a vicious horse in a steeplechase -for a man who has never learnt to ride. But the tendency in those who -speak or write of it for the outer world who are not mountaineers is to -conceal a deficiency of charm of style by an attempt to slog in the -melodramatic, and I plead guilty at once. - -"So we think and write as though to us our passion for the hills were a -fancy of the summer, a mere flirtation. Yet no one has lost the first -bloom of his delight in Alpine adventure before the element of sternness -has come to mar his memory and bind more closely his affections. You -find the mildly Horatian presence of death somewhere near you, and that -at a moment when, whatever your age and strength, and whatever your -infirmities, you are at the full burst of youth; when Nature has been -kindest she has been most capricious, and has flaunted her relentless -savagery just when she has bent to kiss you. The weirdest rocks rise -from Italian gardens, and the forms of hill seem oldest when you are -most exultant--immortal age beside immortal youth. Yet is it not this, -'the sense of tears,' in things which are not mortal which must mark -your Alpine paths with memories as heavy and as definite as those -inscriptions which tell of obscure and sudden death on every hillside, -and invite your prayers for the woodcutter and the shepherd? You too -will have seen friends go out into the morning whom you have never -welcomed home. There is a danger, sometimes encountered recklessly, -sometimes ignorantly, but sometimes--hard as it may be to understand the -mood--not in the mere spirit of the idle youth, but met with and -overcome, or overcoming, in a resolution which knows no pleasure in -conquest save when the essay is fierce, and is calmly willing to pay the -penalty of failure. While for ourselves we enjoy the struggle none the -less because we have taken every care that we shall win, they freely -give all; and for such there is surely no law. While by every precept -and example we impress the old rules of the craft on our companions and -our successors, how can we find words of blame for those who have at -least paid the extreme forfeit, and found 'the sleep that is among the -lonely hills'? - -"The penalty for failure is death; not always exacted at the first -slip, for Nature is merciful and ofttimes doth relent; but surely -waiting for those who scorn the experience of others and slight her -majesty in wilfulness, in ignorance, in the obstinate following of a -fancy, in the vain pursuit of notoriety. The rules are known, and those -who break them, and by precept and example tempt to break them those -whom they should teach, wrong the sport which they profess to love. - -"In this game as in any other, it should be a point of honour for us not -to make the sport more difficult for others, and not to bring -unnecessary sorrow upon the peasants, who help us to play it, and upon -their families. It should be a point of honour to play the game, and, if -disaster comes in playing it, we have at least, done our best." - - - - -GLOSSARY - - -ALP A mountain pasture, usually with chalets - tenanted only in summer. - -ARTE A ridge. - -BERGSCHRUND A crevasse between the snow adhering to - the rocks and the lower portion of the - glacier. - -COL A pass between two peaks. - - -COULOIR A gully, usually filled with snow or stones. - -CREVASSE A crack in a glacier, caused by the movement - of the ice over an uneven bed or - round a corner. - - -FIRN The snow of the upper regions, which is - slowly changing into glacier ice. - -GRAT A ridge. - -JOCH A pass between two peaks. - -KAMM A summit ridge. - -MORAINE An accumulation of stones and sand which - has fallen from bordering slopes on to - a glacier. Medial moraines are formed - by the junction of glaciers, their lateral - moraines joining. - -MOULIN A glacier mill, or shaft through the ice, - formed by a stream which has met a - crevasse in its course, and plunging - into its depths has bored a hole right - through the glacier and often into the - rock beneath. - -NV The French of _Firn_. (See Firn.) - -RCKSACK The bag type of canvas knapsack now invariably - used by guides and climbers. - -SCHRUND A crevasse. (See Crevasse.) - -SRAC A cube of ice, formed by transverse crevasses, - and found where a glacier passes over - steep rocks. This part of a glacier is - called an ice-fall. - - - - -INDEX - - -A - -Abruzzi, Duke of, 8 - -Adine Col, 108 - -ggischhorn, 257 - -Ailefroide, 228, 245 - -Aitkins, Mr, 162 - -Aletsch Glacier, 125 - -Aletschhorn, avalanche on, 55 - -Almer, Christian, 223, 237 - -Almer, Ulrich, 55 - -Andenmatten, 108 - -Anderegg, Jacob, 126, 127 - -Anderegg, Melchior, 125, 212 - -Andermatten, Franz, 202 - -Arbuthnot, Mrs, 257 - -Arc, Valley of, 266 - -Aren Glacier, 57, 61 - -Arlberg Pass, 61 - -Arolla, 168 - -Arves, Aiguilles d', 248 - -Asti, 265 - - -B - -Baker, Mr, 134 - -Balloon (crossing Alps), 298 - -Balme, 300 - -Bans, Les, 228 - -Baumann, Hans, 127 - -Bean, Mr, 136 - -Bennen, 57 - -Bergemoletto, 65 - -Bergli Hut, 210 - -Bessanese, 299 - -Bettega, 183 - -Biner, Alois and P., 302 - -Biner, Joseph, 204, 302 - -Blaitire, Aiguille de, 26, 37 - -Blanc, Mont, 136, 153 - -Blanche, Dent, 51, 152, 167 - -Boeufs Rouges, 228 - -Bohren, 58 - -Boniface, 265 - -Bonvoison, Pic de, 226 - -Botto, 298 - -Bregaglia group, 296 - -Brenner, 136 - -Brewer, Mrs, 61 - -Bricolla chlets, 168 - -Bristenstock, 164 - -Broadbent, Mr, 302 - -Bruce, Major, 59 - -Brulle, Mons. H., 260 - -Burckhardt, Mr, 208 - -Burchi peak, 59 - -Burgener, Alexander, 104, 202 - - -C - -C d'Asti, 265 - -Carr, Mr Ellis, 23 - -Carrel, J. A., 21 - -Caucasus, 58, 99, 116 - -Cenis, Mont, 264 - -Cerbillonas, the, 260 - -Chamonix, 8, 23, 126, 153 - -Charbonnet, Captain, 298 - -Charmoz ridge, 50 - -Claret, 258 - -Clayton, Captain, 261 - -Collie, Dr Norman, 134 - -Constance, 60 - -Conway, Sir W. M., 155, 275 - -Copland Valley, 4 - -Croz, Michel, 222, 238 - - -D - -Dauphin, 11 - -Dent, Mr C. T., 99, 116, 142, 202 - -Devas, Mr J. F. C., 144 - -Dixon, Mr H. B., 133 - -Dolomites, 182 - -Dom, 52 - -Donkin, Mr W. F., 58, 99, 116 - -Dora Riparia, Valley of, 266 - -Dniberg, 282 - -Durand Glacier, 204 - -Durando, 298 - -Dych Tau, 105 - - -E - -Ecrins, 228, 235 - -Ecrins, Col des, 225 - -Eiger, 264 - -Elbruz, 115 - -Elm, landslip of, 275 - -Elmer, Huntsman, 280 - -Encula, Glacier de l', 246 - -tanons, Val des, 11 - - -F - -Fellenberg, E. Von, 212 - -Ferard, Mr A. G., 144 - -Fitzgerald, Mr E., 3 - -Flender, Herr, 138 - -Foster, Mr G. E., 126 - -Fox, Mr, 116 - -Freshfield, Mr Douglas, 116 - -Frrer, Alphons, 8 - -Furrer, Elias, 167 - - -G - -Gabelhorn, Ober, 55 - -Gastaldi, Rifugio, 299 - -Gavarnie, 261 - -Gant, Dent du, 257 - -Geneva, Lake of, 37 - -Gentinetta, A., 8 - -Gentinetta, E., 206 - -Gestola, 99 - -Glace, Mer de, 8 - -Glarus, Canton, 277 - -Gohna Lake, 277 - -Grass, Hans, 55 - -Greenwood, Mr Eric, 154 - -Grogan, Mr, 302 - -Grove, F. Craufurd, 2 - -Gurkhas, 59 - - -H - -Habl, Herr Emil, 292 - -Hardy, Mr, 164 - -Hartley, Mr E. T., 166 - -Hill, Mr, 167 - -Himalayas, 58, 275 - -Hochjoch Haus, 261 - -Hohberghorn, 52 - -Hrnli, 9 - -Horrocks, D. P., 204 - - -I - -Imboden, Joseph, 52, 165, 195 - -Imboden, Roman, 195 - -Imseng, Ferdinand, 202, 267 - -Innsbruck, 60 - -Interlaken, 221 - - -J - -Jones, Mr Glynne, 167 - -Julen, Edouard, 206 - -Julen, Felix, 302 - -Jungfrau, 55, 210 - -Jungfrau Hut, 209 - - -K - -Kaiserbrunn, 292 - -Kennedy, Dr, 164, 222 - -King, Sir H. S., 208 - -Koenig, Herr, 138 - -Kubli, Herr Oswald, 281 - -Kurzras, 261 - - -L - -La Brarde, 11, 245 - -La Grave, 11 - -Langtauferer Glacier, 262 - -Lapland, 306 - -Lausanne, 37 - -Lucerne, 301 - -Lyons, 298 - - -M - -Maggiore, Lago, 301 - -Maithana Hill, fall of, 275 - -Maquignaz, 21 - -Maritime Alps, 305 - -Martino, St, 182 - -Matthews, Mr E. C., 211 - -Matterhorn, 8, 21, 248, 302 - -Maund, Mr, 11 - -Maund, Mrs, 11 - -Maurer, 11, 116 - -Meije, 12, 248 - -Meije, Brche de la, 12, 228 - -Middlemore, Mr, 11 - -Midi, Aiguille du, 126 - -Mischabel group, 301 - -Monand, Mons. J., 306 - -Mnch, 124 - -Montanvert, 8 - -Moore, Mr A. W., 124, 222, 235 - -"Moseley's Platte," 302 - -Mouvoison, 142 - -Mueller Valley, 4 - -Mummery, Mr, 23, 58 - -Mrren, 208 - -Msli, 280 - -Mussa, Cantina della, 300 - - -N - -Nant Francon, 319 - -Nantillons Glacier, 24 - -Neyssel, Mons. Antoine, 306 - -Noir, Glacier, 245 - - -O - -Oetzthal, 261 - -Offerer, J., 136 - -Ossoue, Valley of, 261 - - -P - -Pal, Piz, 55 - -Passingham, Mr, 202 - -Packe, Mr C., 259 - -Pelvoux, 245 - -Pelvoux, Crte du, 245 - -Perren, H., 138 - -Perren, P., 204 - -Pilatte, Col de la, 222 - -Plan, Aiguille du, 23 - -Plattenbergkopf, 277 - -Pourri, Mont, 267 - -Powell, Captain, 116, 123 - -Pyrenees, 259 - - -R - -Rax, the, 291 - -Renaud, Mons., 223 - -Rey, Emil, 8 - -Rhyner, Fridolin, 287 - -Rhyner, Meinrad, 280 - -Richardson, Miss, 165 - -Rocca Venoni, 300 - -Roccia, Family of, 68 - -Roche Melon, 264 - -Rocky Mountains, 133 - -Rodier, 11 - -Rosetta, 182 - -Rothhorn, Zinal, 195 - - -S - -Saas, Valley of, 301 - -Sahrbach, 134 - -Schffer, Dr, 136 - -Schildthorn, 257 - -Schuster, Mr, 162 - -Schwarzsee Hotel, 10 - -Sefton, Mount, 4 - -Seiler, Herr, 145, 162 - -Seiler, D. H., 301 - -Sernf Valley, 277 - -Silberhorn, 208 - -Skagastldstind, 140 - -Ski accident, 137 - -Slingsby, Mr Cecil, 23, 140, 152 - -Sloggett, Mr, 8 - -Smith, Mr Haskett-, 158 - -Solly, Mr, 156 - -Somis, Ignazio, 65 - -Sospello, 306 - -Spechtenhauser, 261 - -Spelterini, Captain, 301 - -Spender, Mr H., 167 - -Strahlplatten, 209 - -Stock, Mr E. E., 302 - -Stockje, 156 - -Supersax, Ambrose, 209 - -Susa, 265 - - -T - -Tavernaro, 183 - -Tetnuld Tau, 99 - -Tnsberg, 141 - -Trift Valley, 195 - -Tuckett, Mr F., 55, 264 - -Tuckett Glacier, 5 - -Turin, 298 - - -U - -Uschba, 115 - - -V - -Vallon, Glacier du, 245 - -Vallot Hut, 153 - -Valtournanche, 21 - -Ventina Glacier, 316 - -Vignemale, 260 - -Viso, Monte, 269 - -Vuignier, Jean, 168 - - -W - -Walker, Mr, 223, 235 - -Walker, Mr Horace, 126 - -Wandfluh, 166, 179 - -Watson, Mr and Mrs, 257 - -Weisshorn, 248 - -Weisskugel, 261 - -Weissmies, 301 - -Wengern Alp, 124, 210 - -Willink, Mr, 123 - -Wildlahner Glacier, 136 - -Wolfsthal, 292 - -Woolley, Mr H., 116 - -Whymper, Mr E., 222, 235 - -Wyss, Schoolmaster, 280 - - -Z - -Zentner, Kaspar, 287 - -Zermatt, 10, 51, 139, 181, 301 - -Zmutt Glacier, 166, 179 - -Zurbriggen, 3, 59 - -Zurbriggen, Clemens, 168 - -Zurbrcken, Louis, 209 - -Zurmatter, 302 - - PRINTED AT THE EDINBURGH PRESS, - - 9 AND 11 YOUNG STREET - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] These are now known as Mummery nails, and are often used by climbers. - -[2] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, pp. 42 and 43. - -[3] Or, in modern phraseology, "avalanches." - -[4] Mountain aneroids generally overstate the heights. The height of -Gestola is now computed at 15,932 feet, and that of Tetnuld at 15,918 -feet. - -[5] "Good God! The Sleeping-place!" - -[6] "I am still living." - -[7] _Above the Snow Line_, by Clinton Dent. - -[8] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, p. 269. - -[9] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, p. 134. - -[10] At the moment of going to press, I must note a fatal accident on -the mountains due to lightning, namely, the death of the guide, Joseph -Simond, on the Dent du Gant. This I had overlooked. - -[11] See _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_. - -[12] "Ah! That is really wonderfully beautiful!" - -[13] All details connected with this avalanche were collected on the -spot, and shortly afterwards published in a volume, _Der Bergsturz von -Elm_, by E. Buss and A. Heim. Zrich, 1881. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -The baloon "Stella"=> The balloon "Stella" {pg xiv} - -sufficient to carry of the=> sufficient to carry off the {pg 82} - -Kaisserbrunn, 292=> Kaiserbrunn, 292 {index} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Adventures on the Roof of the World, by -Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - -***** This file should be named 43314-8.txt or 43314-8.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/3/1/43314/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Adventures on the Roof of the World - -Author: Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -Release Date: July 26, 2013 [EBook #43314] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - -</pre> - -<hr class="full" /> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/cover_lg.jpg"> -<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="374" height="550" alt="bookcover" title="bookcover" /></a> -</p> - -<p class="cb">ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF OF<br /> -THE WORLD</p> - -<div class="bbox"> - -<p class="sans"> -SOME<br /> -BOOKS ON MOUNTAINEERING<br /> -</p> - -<p class="c">———</p> - -<p class="hang"><b>The Annals of Mont Blanc</b>: A Monograph. By <span class="smcap">C. E. Mathews</span>, sometime -President of the Alpine Club. With Map, 6 Swan-types and other -Illustrations, and Facsimiles. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s. net.</p> - -<p class="hang"><b>The Life of Man on the High Alps</b>: Studies made on Monte Rosa. By -<span class="smcap">Angelo Mosso</span>. Translated from the Second Edition of the Italian by -<span class="smcap">E. Lough Kiesow</span>, in collaboration with <span class="smcap">F. Kiesow</span>. With numerous -Illustrations and Diagrams. Royal 8vo, cloth, 21s.</p> - -<p class="hang"><b>The Early Mountaineers</b>: The Stories of their Lives. By <span class="smcap">Francis -Gribble</span>. Fully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s.</p> - -<p class="hang"><b>The Climbs of Norman-Neruda.</b> Edited, with an Account of his last -Climb, by <span class="smcap">May Norman-Neruda</span>. Demy 8vo, cloth, 21s.</p> - -<p class="hang"><b>In the Ice World of Himalaya.</b> By <span class="smcap">Fanny Bullock Workman</span> and <span class="smcap">William -Hunter Workman</span>. With four large Maps and nearly 100 Illustrations. -Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 16s. Also a 6s. Edition.</p> - -<p class="hang"><b>From the Alps to the Andes.</b> By <span class="smcap">Mathias Zurbriggen</span>. Demy 8vo, cloth, -10s. 6d. net.</p> - -<p class="hang"><b>Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada.</b> By <span class="smcap">Clarence King</span>. Crown 8vo, -cloth, 6s. net.</p> - -<p class="hang"><b>True Tales of Mountain Adventure</b> (for Non-Climbers, Young and Old). -By Mrs <span class="smcap">Aubrey Le Blond</span> (Mrs Main). Demy 8vo, cloth, 10s. 6d. net.</p> - -<p class="c">———</p> - -<p class="c">LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN.</p> -</div> - -<p><a name="front" id="front"></a></p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/i_004_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_004_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_004_sml.jpg" width="430" height="606" alt="The finding of the last bivouac of Messrs. Donkin and Fox -in the Caucasus. (P. 116.) - -From a drawing by Mr. Willink after a sketch by Captain Powell. Taken, -by kind permission of Mr. Douglas Freshfield, from “The Exploration of -the Caucasus.” - -Frontispiece." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption"><span class="smcap">The finding of the last bivouac of Messrs. Donkin and Fox -in the Caucasus.</span> (<a href="#page_116">P. 116.</a>)<br /> - -From a drawing by Mr. Willink after a sketch by Captain Powell. Taken, -by kind permission of Mr. Douglas Freshfield,<br /> from “The Exploration of -the Caucasus.”<br /> -Frontispiece.</span> -</p> - -<h1>ADVENTURES ON THE<br /> -ROOF OF THE WORLD</h1> - -<p class="cb">BY<br /> -MRS AUBREY LE BLOND<br /> -(<span class="smcap">Mrs MAIN</span>)<br /> -<br /> -<small>AUTHOR OF<br /> -“MY HOME IN THE ALPS,” “TRUE TALES OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE,” ETC.</small><br /> -<br /> -<i>ILLUSTRATED</i><br /> -<br /> -<img src="images/colophon.png" -width="150" -height="146" -alt="colophon" -title="colophon" -/><br /> -<br /> -LONDON<br /> -T. FISHER UNWIN<br /> -PATERNOSTER SQUARE<br /> -1904<br /><br /><br /> -(<i>All rights reserved.</i>)</p> - -<p> </p> - -<p> </p> -<p class="c"> -TO<br /> -<br /> -<big><big>J O S E P H I M B O D E N</big></big><br /> -<br /> -MY GUIDE AND FRIEND FOR TWENTY YEARS,<br /> -<br /> -<span class="eng">I dedicate</span><br /> -<br /> -THESE RECORDS OF A PASTIME IN WHICH I OWE<br /> -<br /> -MY SHARE TO HIS SKILL, COURAGE, AND<br /> -<br /> -HELPFUL COMPANIONSHIP.<br /> -</p> - -<p> </p> -<p> <a name="page_ix" id="page_ix"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">“D</span>EAR HEART,” said Tommy, when Mr Barlow had finished his narrative, -“what a number of accidents people are subject to in this world!”</p> - -<p>“It is very true,” answered Mr Barlow, “but as that is the case, it is -necessary to improve ourselves in every possible manner, so that we may -be able to struggle against them.”</p> - -<p>Thus quoted, from <i>Sandford and Merton</i>, a president of the Alpine Club. -The following True Tales from the Hills, if they serve to emphasise not -only the perils of mountaineering but the means by which they can be -lessened, will have accomplished the aim of their editor.</p> - -<p>This book is not intended for the climber. To him most of the tales will -be familiar in the volumes on the shelves of his library or on the lips -of his companions during restful hours in the Alps. But the non-climber -rarely sees <i>The Alpine Journal</i> and the less popular books on -mountaineering, nor would he probably care to search in their pages for -narratives likely to interest him.</p> - -<p>To seek out tales of adventure easily intelligible to the non-climber, -to edit them in popular form, to point out the lessons which most -adventures can teach to those who may climb themselves one day, has -occupied many pleasant hours, rendered doubly so by the feeling that I -shall again come into touch with the readers who gave so kindly a -greeting to my <i>True Tales of Mountain Adventure</i>. In that work I tried -to explain the principles of mountaineering and something of the nature -of glaciers and avalanches. Those chapters will, I think, be found -helpful by non-climbers who read the present volume.</p> - -<p>For much kindly advice and help in compiling this work I am indebted to -Mr Henry Mayhew, of the British Museum, and to Mr Clinton Dent. Mrs -Maund has enabled me to quote from a striking article by her late -husband. Sir W. Martin Conway, Sir H. Seymour King, Messrs Tuckett, G. -E. Foster, Cecil Slingsby, Harold Spender, and Edward Fitzgerald have -been good enough to allow me to make long extracts from their writings. -Messrs Newnes have generously permitted me to quote from articles which -appeared in their publications, and the editor of <i>The Cornhill</i> has -sanctioned my reprinting portions of a paper from his magazine. I am -also indebted to the editor of <i>M‘Clure’s Magazine</i> for a similar -courtesy.</p> - -<p>Mons. A. Campagne, Inspector of Water and Forests (France), allows me to -make use of two very interesting photographs from his work on the Valley -of Barège. Several friends have lent me photographs for reproduction in -this work, and their names appear under each of the illustrations I owe -to them. Messrs Spooner have kindly allowed me to use several by the -late Mr W. F. Donkin. When not otherwise stated, the photographs are -from my own negatives.</p> - -<p>I take this opportunity of heartily thanking those climbers, some of -them personally unknown to me, whose assistance has rendered this work -possible.</p> - -<p class="r"> -E. LE BLOND.<br /> -</p> - -<p> -<span class="smcap">67 The Drive,<br /> -B<small>RIGHTON</small></span>, <i>December 1903</i>.<br /> -</p> - -<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> - -<tr><td align="right"><small>CHAP.</small></td><td> </td> -<td align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td>PREFACE</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_ix">ix</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">I.</a></td><td> SOME TALES OF ALPINE GUIDES</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_001">1</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">II.</a></td><td> TWO DAYS ON AN ICE-SLOPE</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_023">23</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">III.</a></td><td> SOME AVALANCHE ADVENTURES</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_051">51</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">IV.</a></td><td> A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_065">65</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">V.</a></td><td> A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE (<i>continued</i>)</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_081">81</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">VI.</a></td><td> AN EXCITING CAUCASIAN ASCENT</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_099">99</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">VII.</a></td><td> A MELANCHOLY QUEST</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_116">116</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">VIII.</a></td><td> SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND FATAL ACCIDENTS</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_124">124</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">IX.</a></td><td> A NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE DENT BLANCHE</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_152">152</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">X.</a></td><td> ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_167">167</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">XI.</a></td><td> A STIRRING DAY ON THE ROSETTA</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_182">182</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">XII.</a></td><td> THE ZINAL ROTHHORN TWICE IN ONE DAY</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_195">195</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">XIII.</a></td><td> BENIGHTED ON A SNOW PEAK</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_208">208</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">XIV.</a></td><td> THE STORY OF A BIG JUMP</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_222">222</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">XV.</a></td><td> A PERILOUS FIRST ASCENT</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_235">235</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">XVI.</a></td><td> THUNDERSTORMS IN THE ALPS</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_257">257</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">XVII.</a></td><td> LANDSLIPS IN THE MOUNTAINS</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_275">275</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">XVIII.</a></td><td> SOME TERRIBLE EXPERIENCES</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_291">291</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td align="right" valign="top"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">XIX.</a></td><td> FALLING STONES AND FALLING BODIES</td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_310">310</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td><a href="#GLOSSARY">GLOSSARY</a></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_327">327</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td> </td><td><a href="#INDEX">INDEX</a>:<small> -<a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Z">Z</a></small></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_329">329</a></td></tr> - -</table> - -<h2><a name="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> - -<table border="3" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto; max-width:50%;"> -<tr><td align="center" colspan="2">Some images have been moved from inside paragraphs for ease of reading. -(note of the etext transcriber.)</td></tr> -</table> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto; max-width:50%;"> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang">The last bivouac of Messrs Donkin and Fox -in the Caucasus</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#front"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang">Christian Almer, Joseph Imboden, Jean -Antoine Carrel, Alexander Burgener</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_003"><i>To face page</i> 3</a></td></tr> - - - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang">The last steep bit near the top—At the end -of a hot day—An instant’s halt to choose -the best way up a steep wall of rock—The -ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, -to be brought up by the last man</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_006"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 6</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Auguste Gentinetta—Auguste Gentinetta -on the way to the Matterhorn—The -beginning of the climb up the Matterhorn—The -spot where was the <i>bergschrund</i> -into which Mr Sloggett’s party -fell</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_008"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 8</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Auguste Gentinetta on a mountain-top—The -ice-cliffs over which Mr Sloggett’s party -would have fallen had they not been -dashed into the <i>bergschrund</i>—The -ruined chapel by the Schwarzsee—The -last resting-place at Zermatt of some -English climbers</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_011"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 11</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -On a snow ridge—A halt for lunch above -the snow-line—Mrs Aubrey Le Blond</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_051"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 51</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -A cutting through an avalanche—The -remains of an avalanche—An avalanche -of stones—A mountain chapel</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_059"> <span class="ditto">" "</span> 59</a></td></tr> - - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -A mountain path—Peasants of the -mountains—A village buried beneath an -avalanche—Terraces planted to -prevent avalanches</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_065"> <span class="ditto">" "</span> 65</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -A typical Caucasian landscape</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_105"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 105</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Melchior Anderegg, his son and grandchild</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_124"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 124</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Crevasses and séracs—On the border of a -crevasse—A snow bridge—Soft snow in -the afternoon</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_133"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 133</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -The Bétemps Hut—Ski-ing—A fall on Skis—A -great crevasse</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_137"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 137</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -The balloon “Stella” getting ready to start -(p. 301)—A bivouac in the olden days—Boulder -practice—The last rocks -descending</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_148"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 148</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Provisions for a mountain hotel—An outlook -over rock and snow—Dent Blanche -from Schwarzsee (winter)—Dent Blanche -from Theodule Glacier (summer)</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_152"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 152</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Hut on Col de Bértol—Ascending the -Aiguilles Rouges—Summit of the Dent -Blanche—Cornice on the Dent Blanche</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_156"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 156</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Ambrose Supersax (p. 209)—View from the -Rosetta</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_182"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 182</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Climbing party leaving Zermatt—The -Gandegg Hut—The Trift Hotel—Zinal -Rothhorn from Trift Valley</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_195"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 195</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Zinal Rothhorn—Top of a Chamonix Aiguille—A -steep face of rock—“Leading -strings”</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_202"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 202</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -A <i>bergschrund</i>—Homewards over the snow-slopes</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_230"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 230</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -The Ecrins—Clouds breaking over a ridge—Summit -of the Jungfrau—Wind-blown -snow</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_235"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 235</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -The Ecrins from the Glacier Blanc</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_247"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 247</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Slab climbing—A rock ridge—On the Dent -du Géant—The top at last</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_252"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 252</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -The second largest glacier in the Alps—On -a ridge in the Oberland</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_259"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 259</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Thirteen thousand feet above the sea—On -the Furggen Grat—A “personally -conducted” party on the Breithorn—Packing -the knapsack</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_269"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 269</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Monte Rosa from the Furggen Grat—The -Matterhorn from the Wellenkuppe</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_272"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 272</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -A glacier lake—Amongst the séracs—Taking -off the rope—Water at last!</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_297"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 297</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -The balloon “Stella” starting from Zermatt—A -moment after</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_298"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 298</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -The Matterhorn from the Hörnli Ridge—The -Matterhorn from the Furgg Glacier—Joseph -Biner—The Matterhorn Hut</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_302"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 302</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -A hot day on a mountain-top—A summit -near Saas—Luncheon <i>en route</i> (winter)—Luncheon -on a glacier pass (summer)</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_310"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 310</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -A tedious snow-slope—A sitting glissade—A -glacier-capped summit—On the -frontier</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_312"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 312</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -Unpleasant going—On the crest of an old -moraine</p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_317"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 317</a></td></tr> - -<tr><td valign="top"><p class="hang"> -An awkward bit of climbing—Guides at -Zermatt—The Boval Hut—<i>Au revoir!</i></p></td><td align="right" valign="bottom"><a href="#page_322"><span class="ditto">" "</span> 322</a></td></tr> - -</table> - -<p><a name="page_001" id="page_001"></a></p> - -<h1>ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF<br /> -OF THE WORLD</h1> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I<br /><br /> -<small>SOME TALES OF ALPINE GUIDES</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">I</span>N a former work, I have given some details of the training of an Alpine -guide, so I will not repeat them here.</p> - -<p>The mountain guides of Switzerland form a class unlike any other, yet in -the high standard of honour and devotion they display towards those in -their charge, one is reminded of two bodies of men especially deserving -of respect and confidence, namely, the Civil Guards of Spain and the -Royal Irish Constabulary. Like these, the Alpine guide oftentimes risks -his health, strength—even his life—for persons who are sometimes in -themselves the cause of the peril encountered. Like these, mere bodily -strength and the best will in the world<a name="page_002" id="page_002"></a> need to be associated with -intelligence and foresight. Like these, also, keen, fully-developed -powers of observation are essential. A certain climber of early days has -wittily related in <i>The Alpine Journal</i> a little anecdote which bears on -this point. “Some years ago,” writes the late Mr F. Craufurd Grove, “a -member of this Club was ascending a small and easy peak in company with -a famous Oberland guide. Part of their course lay over a snow-field -sinking gradually on one side, sharply ended by a precipice on the -other. The two were walking along, not far from the edge of this -precipice, when the Englishman, thinking that an easier path might be -made by going still nearer the edge, diverged a little from his -companion’s track. To his considerable surprise, the guide immediately -caught hold of him, and pulled him back with a great deal more vigour -than ceremony, well-nigh throwing him down in the operation. Wrathful, -and not disinclined to return the compliment, the Englishman -remonstrated. The guide’s only answer was to point to a small crack, -apparently like scores of other cracks in the <i>névé</i>, which ran for some -distance parallel to the edge of the precipice, and about 15 feet from -it.</p> - - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_022a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_022a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_022a_sml.jpg" width="248" height="329" alt="Jean Antoine Carrel of Valournanche. -By Signor Vittorio Sella." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Jean Antoine Carrel of Valournanche.<br /> -By Signor Vittorio Sella.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_022b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_022b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_022b_sml.jpg" width="244" height="252" alt="Christian Almer of Grindelwald." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Christian Almer of Grindelwald.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_022c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_022c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_022c_sml.jpg" width="223" height="327" alt="Alexander Burgener of Eisten (Saasthal)." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Alexander Burgener of Eisten (Saasthal).</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_022d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_022d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_022d_sml.jpg" width="222" height="354" alt="Joseph Imboden of St. Nicholas. -To face p. 3." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Joseph Imboden of St. Nicholas.<br />To face p. 3.</span> -</p> - -<p>“The traveller was not satisfied, but he was too wise a man to spend -time in arguing and disputing, while a desired summit was still some -distance<a name="page_003" id="page_003"></a> above him. They went on their way, gained the top, and the -traveller’s equanimity was restored by a splendid view. When, on the -descent, the scene of the morning’s incident was reached, the guide -pointed to the little crack in the <i>névé</i>, which had grown perceptibly -wider. ‘This marks,’ he said, ‘the place where the true snow-field ends. -I feel certain that the ice from here to the edge is nothing but an -unsupported cornice hanging over the tremendous precipice beneath. It -might possibly have borne your weight in the early morning, though I -don’t think it would. As to what it will bear now that a powerful sun -has been on it for some time—why, let us see.’ Therewith he struck the -<i>névé</i> on the further side of the ice sharply with his axe. A huge mass, -some 20 or 30 feet long, immediately broke away, and went roaring down -the cliff in angry avalanche. Whereat the traveller was full of -amazement and admiration, and thought how there, on an easy mountain and -in smiling weather, he had not been very far from making himself into an -avalanche, to his own great discomfort and to the infinite tribulation -of the Alpine Club.”</p> - -<p>A fatal accident was only narrowly averted by the skill of the famous -guide Zurbriggen when making an ascent in the New Zealand Alps with Mr -Edward Fitzgerald. I am indebted to this<a name="page_004" id="page_004"></a> gentleman for permission to -quote the account from his article in <i>The Alpine Journal</i>.</p> - -<p>The party were making the ascent of Mount Sefton, and were much troubled -by the looseness of the rock on the almost vertical face which they had -to climb. However, at last they reached a ridge, “along which,” writes -Mr Fitzgerald, “we proceeded between two precipices, descending to the -Copland and to the Mueller valleys—some 6000 feet sheer drop on either -hand.</p> - -<p>“We had next to climb about 300 feet of almost perpendicular cliff. The -rocks were peculiarly insecure, and we were obliged to move by turns, -wherever possible throwing down such rocks as seemed most dangerous. At -times even this resource was denied us, so dangerous was the violent -concussion with which these falling masses would shake the ridge to -which we clung. I carried both the ice axes, so as to leave Zurbriggen -both hands free to test each rock as he slowly worked his way upwards, -while I did my utmost to avoid being in a position vertically beneath -him.</p> - -<p>“Suddenly, as I was coming up a steep bit, while Zurbriggen waited for -me a few steps above, a large boulder, which I touched with my right -hand, gave way with a crash and fell, striking my chest. I had been just -on the point of passing up the two ice axes to Zurbriggen, that he might -place them<a name="page_005" id="page_005"></a> in a cleft of rock a little higher up, and thus leave me -both hands free for my climb. He was in the act of stooping and -stretching out his arms to take them from my uplifted left hand, and the -slack rope between us lay coiled at his feet. The falling boulder hurled -me down head foremost, and I fell about 8 feet, turning a complete -somersault in the air. Suddenly I felt the rope jerk, and I struck -against the side of the mountain with great force. I feared I should be -stunned and drop the two ice axes, and I knew that on these our lives -depended. Without them we should never have succeeded in getting down -the glacier, through all the intricate ice-fall.</p> - -<p>“After the rope had jerked me up I felt it again slip and give way, and -I came down slowly for a couple of yards. I took this to mean that -Zurbriggen was being wrenched from his foot-hold, and I was just -contemplating how I should feel dashing down the 6000 feet below, and -wondering vaguely how many times I should strike the rocks on the way. I -saw the block that I had dislodged going down in huge bounds; it struck -the side three or four times, and then, taking an enormous plunge of -about 2000 feet, embedded itself in the glacier now called the Tuckett -Glacier.</p> - -<p>“I felt the rope stop and pull me up short. I called to Zurbriggen and -asked him if he were solidly placed.<a name="page_006" id="page_006"></a> I was now swinging in the air like -a pendulum, with my back to the mountain, scarcely touching the rock -face. It would have required a great effort to turn round and grasp the -rock, and I was afraid the strain which would thus necessarily be placed -on the rope might dislodge Zurbriggen.</p> - -<p>“His first fear was that I had been half killed, for he saw the rock -fall almost on top of me; but, as a matter of fact, after striking my -chest it had glanced off to the right and passed under my right arm; it -had started from a point so very near to me that it had not time to gain -sufficient impetus to strike me with great force. Zurbriggen’s first -words were, ‘Are you very much hurt?’ I answered, ‘No,’ and again I -asked him whether he were firmly placed. ‘No,’ he replied, ‘I am very -badly situated here. Turn round as soon as you can; I cannot hold you -much longer.’ I gave a kick at the rocks with one foot, and with a great -effort managed to swing myself round.</p> - -<p>“Luckily there was a ledge near me, and so, getting some hand-hold, I -was soon able to ease the strain on the rope. A few moments later I -struggled a little way up, and at last handed to Zurbriggen the ice -axes, which I had managed to keep hold of throughout my fall. In fact, -my thoughts had been centred on them during the whole of the time. We -were in too bad a place to stop to speak to one<a name="page_007" id="page_007"></a> another; but -Zurbriggen, climbing up a bit further, got himself into a firm position, -and I scrambled up after him, so that in about ten minutes we had passed -this steep bit.</p> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_027a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_027a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_027a_sml.jpg" width="229" height="324" alt="The last steep bit near the top." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The last steep bit near the top.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_027c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_027c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_027c_sml.jpg" width="242" height="329" alt="At the end of a hot day." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">At the end of a hot day.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_027b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_027b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_027b_sml.jpg" width="239" height="326" alt="An instant’s halt to choose the best way up a steep wall -of rock." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">An instant’s halt to choose the best way up a steep wall -of rock.</span> -</div> - -<div class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_027d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_027d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_027d_sml.jpg" width="225" height="324" alt="The ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, to be brought up -by the last man. -To face p. 6." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, to be brought up -by the last man.<br /> - -To face p. 6.</span> -</div> - -<p>“We now sat for a moment to recover ourselves, for our nerves had been -badly shaken by what had so nearly proved a fatal accident. At the time -everything happened so rapidly that we had not thought much of it, more -especially as we knew that we needed to keep our nerve and take -immediate action; but once it was all over we both felt the effects, and -sat for about half an hour before we could even move again. I learned -that Zurbriggen, the moment I fell, had snatched up the coil of rope -which lay at his feet, and had luckily succeeded in getting hold of the -right end first, so that he was soon able to bring me nearly to rest; -but the pull upon him was so great, and he was so badly placed, that he -had to let the rope slip through his fingers, removing all the skin, in -order to ease the strain while he braced himself in a better position, -from which he was able finally to stop me. He told me that had I not -been able to turn and grasp the rocks he must inevitably have been -dragged from his foot-hold, as the ledge upon which he stood was -literally crumbling away beneath his feet. We discovered that two -strands of the rope had been cut through by the falling rock, so that<a name="page_008" id="page_008"></a> I -had been suspended in mid-air by a single strand.”</p> - -<p>The remainder of the way was far from easy, but without further mishap -the party eventually gained the summit.</p> - -<p>That there are many grades of Alpine guides was amusingly exemplified -once upon a time at the Montanvert, where in front of the hotel stood -the famous Courmazeur guide, Emil Rey (afterwards killed on the Dent du -Géant), talking to the Duke of Abruzzi and other first-rate climbers, -while a little way off lounged some extremely indifferent specimens of -the Chamonix <i>Societé des Guides</i>. Presently a tourist, got up with much -elegance, and leaning on a tall stick surmounted by a chamois horn, -appeared upon the scene, and addressed himself to Emil Rey. “Combien -pour traverser la Mer de Glace?” he enquired.</p> - -<p>“Monsieur,” replied Rey, removing his hat with one hand and with the -other indicating the group hard by, “voila les guides pour la Mer de -Glace! Moi, je suis pour la grande montagne!”</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_031a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_031a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_031a_sml.jpg" width="243" height="328" alt="Auguste Gentinetta, of Zermatt, 1903." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Auguste Gentinetta, of Zermatt, 1903.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_031c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_031c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_031c_sml.jpg" width="260" height="336" alt="Auguste Gentinetta on the way to the Matterhorn." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Auguste Gentinetta on the way to the Matterhorn.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_031b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_031b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_031b_sml.jpg" width="237" height="313" alt="The climb up the Matterhorn by the ordinary Swiss route -begins at the rocky corner to the left of the picture." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The climb up the Matterhorn by the ordinary Swiss route -begins at the rocky corner to the left of the picture.</span> -</p> - - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_031d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_031d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_031d_sml.jpg" width="238" height="318" alt="The Bergschrund, open when the accident to Mr. Sloggett’s -party took place, was above the ice cliff below which the man is -standing. - -To face p. 8." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The B<small>ERGSCHRUND</small>, open -when the accident to Mr. Sloggett’s -party took place, was above the ice cliff below which the man is -standing. -<br /> -To face p. 8.</span> -</p> - -<p>One of the most wonderful escapes in the whole annals of mountaineering -was that of a young Englishman, Mr Sloggett, and the well-known guide, -Auguste Gentinetta, the second guide, Alphons Fürrer, being killed on -the spot. They had made a successful ascent of the Matterhorn on 27th -July<a name="page_009" id="page_009"></a> 1900, and were the first of three parties on the descent. When -nearly down the mountain, not far from the Hörnli ridge, an avalanche of -stones and rocks swept them off their feet. Fürrer’s skull was smashed, -and he was killed immediately, and the three, roped together, were -precipitated down a wall of ice. Their axes were wrenched from their -grasp, and they could do nothing to check themselves. Gentinetta -retained full consciousness during the whole of that awful descent, and -while without the slightest hope that they could escape with their -lives, he in no way lost his presence of mind. About 800 feet below the -spot where their fall commenced was a small <i>Bergschrund</i>, or crack -across the ice. This was full of stones and sand, and into it the -helpless climbers were flung; had they shot over it nothing in this -world could have saved them. Gentinetta, though much bruised and knocked -about, had no bones broken, and he at once took means to prevent an even -worse disaster than that which had already happened, for Mr Sloggett had -fallen head downwards, with his face buried in sand, and was on the -point of suffocation. Well was it for him that his guide was a man of -promptness and courage. Without losing an instant Gentinetta pulled up -his traveller and got his face free, clearing the sand out of his mouth, -and doing all that mortal could for him. Mr Sloggett’s jaw and two of -his teeth were broken,<a name="page_010" id="page_010"></a> but his other injuries were far less than might -have been expected. Nevertheless, the position of the two survivors was -still a most perilous one. They were exactly at the spot on to which -almost every stone which detached itself from that side of the mountain -was sure to fall, and their ice axes were lost, rendering it almost -impossible for them to work their way to a place of safety. Still, to -his infinite credit, the guide did not lose heart. By some means, which -he now declares he is unable to understand, he contrived to climb, and -to assist his gentleman, up that glassy, blood-stained wall, which even -for a party uninjured, and properly equipped, it would have been no -light task to surmount. This desperate achievement was rendered doubly -trying by Gentinetta’s being perfectly aware that if any more stones -fell the two mountaineers must inevitably be swept away for the second -time. At last they gained their tracks and sought a sheltered spot, -where they could safely rest a little. Here they were joined by the -other parties, who rendered invaluable help during the rest of the -descent. The two sufferers finally arrived at the Schwarzsee Hotel, -whence they were carried down the same evening to Zermatt.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_036a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_036a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_036a_sml.jpg" width="309" height="246" alt="Auguste Gentinetta on a Mountain Top, 1903." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Auguste Gentinetta on a Mountain Top, 1903.</span> -</p> - - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_036c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_036c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_036c_sml.jpg" width="322" height="226" alt="The cliff of ice over which Mr. Sloggett’s party must -have precipitated if they had not been dashed into the Bergschrund." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The cliff of ice over which Mr. Sloggett’s party must -have precipitated if they had not been dashed into the Bergschrund.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_036b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_036b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_036b_sml.jpg" width="326" height="228" alt="The ruined Chapel by the Schwarzsee." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The ruined Chapel by the Schwarzsee.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_036d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_036d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_036d_sml.jpg" width="319" height="232" alt="The last resting place at Zermatt of some English -climbers. -To face p. 11." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The last resting place at Zermatt of some English -climbers.<br /> - -To face p. 11.</span> -</p> - -<p>The next day a strong party started for the scene of the accident to -recover the body of the dead guide, Fürrer. It was a difficult and a -dangerous task,<a name="page_011" id="page_011"></a> and those who examined the wall down which the fall -took place expressed their amazement that two wounded men, without axes, -should have performed what seemed the incredible feat of getting up it.</p> - -<p>Both Mr Sloggett and Gentinetta made an excellent recovery, though they -were laid up for many weeks after their memorable descent of the -Matterhorn.</p> - -<p>The qualities found in a first-class guide include not only skill in -climbing, but the ability to form a sound conclusion when overtaken by -storm and mist. The following experience which took place in 1874, and -which I am permitted by Mrs Maund to quote from her late husband’s -article in <i>The Alpine Journal</i>, proves, by its happy termination, that -Maurer’s judgment in a critical position was thoroughly to be relied on. -Mr Maund had just arrived at La Bérarde, in Dauphiné, and he writes:—</p> - -<p>“The morning of the 29th broke wet and stormy, and Rodier strongly -advised me not to start; this, however, was out of the question, as I -was due at La Grave on that day to keep my appointment with Mr -Middlemore. After waiting an hour, to give the weather a chance, we -started in drizzling rain at 5 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> Desolate as the Val des Étançons -must always look, it appeared doubly gloomy that morning, with its -never-ending monotony of rock and moraine unrelieved by a single patch -of green.<a name="page_012" id="page_012"></a> As we neared the glacier, the weather fortunately cleared, -and the clouds, which till then had enveloped everything, began to mount -with that marvellous rapidity only noticeable in mountain districts, -leaving half revealed the mighty cliffs of the Meije towering 5000 feet -almost sheer above us. As the wind caught and carried into the air the -frozen sheets of snow on his summit, the old mountain looked like some -giant bill distributer throwing his advertisements about. Entirely -protected from the wind, we whiled away an hour and a half, searching -with our telescope for any feasible line of attack. Having satisfied -ourselves that on this side the mountain presented enormous, if not -insurmountable, difficulties, we shouldered our packs and made tracks -for the Brèche, which we reached at 11.45.</p> - -<p>“Meanwhile the weather had become worse again, and during the last part -of the ascent it was snowing heavily; the wind too, from which we had -been protected on the south side of the col, was so strong that we were -absolutely obliged to crawl over to the north side. Our position was by -no means a pleasant one; neither Martin nor I knew anything of the pass, -and Rodier, who had told us overnight that he had crossed it more than -once, seemed to know no more, and although sure of the exact bearing of -La Grave, we could<a name="page_013" id="page_013"></a> not, owing to the fast falling snow, see further -than 300 or 400 yards in advance; added to this, it was intensely cold. -Having paid Rodier 20 francs (a perfect waste of money, as it is -impossible to mistake the way to the Brèche from the Val des Étançons, -and, as I have said, he could not give us the least clue to the descent -on the La Grave side), we dismissed him, hoping devoutly that he might -break his—well, his ice axe, we’ll say—on the way down. By keeping -away to the right of the Brèche and down a steep slope, we crossed the -crevasses which lay at its base without difficulty. We then bore to the -left across a plateau, on which the snow lay very deep; floundering -through this sometimes waist deep, we reached the upper ice-fall of the -glacier, and after crossing several crevasses became involved in a -perfect net-work of them. After a consultation, we determined to try to -the right, but met with no better success, as again we were checked by -an absolute labyrinth. At last, about five o’clock, we took to some -rocks which divide the glacier into two branches. Meanwhile the snow was -falling thicker and thicker, and, driven by the strong N.W. wind which -caught up and eddied about what had already fallen, it appeared to come -from every quarter at once. It was impossible to see more than a few -yards in advance, and the rocks which under<a name="page_014" id="page_014"></a> ordinary circumstances -would have been easy, were, with their coating of at least 4 inches of -snow, much the reverse, as it was quite impossible to see where to put -hand or foot. Our only trust was in our compass, which assured us that -while keeping to the backbone of this ridge we were descending in an -almost direct line towards La Grave.</p> - -<p>“We had at most two hours of daylight before us, but there was still a -hope that by following our present line we should get off the glacier -before dark. How I regretted now the time lost in the morning. A little -before seven we were brought to a standstill; our further direct descent -was cut off by a precipice, while the rocks on either side fell almost -sheer to the glaciers beneath. It was too late to think of looking for -another road, so nothing now remained but to find the best shelter we -could and bivouac for the night. We re-ascended to a small platform we -had passed a short time before, and selecting the biggest and most -sheltered bit of rock on it, we piled up the few movable stones there -were about, to form the outside wall to our shelter, and having cleared -away as much of the snow as we could from the inside, laid our ice axes -across the top as rafters, with a sodden mackintosh—ironically called a -waterproof by Mr Carter—over all for<a name="page_015" id="page_015"></a> a roof. Despite this garment, I -was wet to the skin. Luckily, we had each of us a spare flannel shirt -and stockings in our knapsacks, but as the meagre dimensions of our -shelter would not admit of the struggles attendant on a change, we were -obliged to go through the operation outside. I tried to be cheerful, and -Martin tried to be facetious as we wrung out our wet shirts while the -snow beat on our bare backs, but both attempts were lamentable failures. -If up to the present time my readers have not stripped in a snow-storm, -let me strongly advise them never to attempt it. Having got through the -performance as quickly as possible, we crawled into our shelter, but -here again my ill luck followed me, for in entering I managed to tread -on the tin wine-flask which Martin had thrown aside, and, my weight -forcing out the cork, every drop of wine escaped. After packing myself -away as well as I could in the shape of a pot-hook, Martin followed, and -pot-hooked himself alongside me. We were obliged to assume this -elementary shape, as the size of our shelter would not admit of our -lying straight. All the provisions that remained were then produced. -They consisted of a bit of bread about the size of a breakfast-roll, -one-third of a small pot of preserved meat, about two ounces of raw -bacon with the hide on, and half a small flask of a filthy<a name="page_016" id="page_016"></a> compound -called Genèpie, a sort of liqueur; besides this, we mustered between us -barely a pipe-full of tobacco, and eight matches in a metal-box. The -provisions I divided into three equal parts—one-third for that night’s -supper, and the remaining two-thirds for the next day. I need not -enlarge on the miseries of that night. The wind blew through the chinks -between the stones, bringing the snow with it, until the place seemed -all chinks; then the mackintosh with its weight of snow would come in -upon us, and we had with infinite difficulty to prop it up again, only -to go through the same operation an hour later; at last, in sheer -despair, we let it lie where it fell, and found to our relief it kept us -warmer in that position. The snow never ceased one moment although the -wind had fallen, and when morning broke there must have been nearly a -foot of it around and over us. A more desolate picture than that dawn I -have never seen. Snow everywhere. The rocks buried in it, and not a -point peeping out to relieve the unbroken monotony. The sky full of it, -without a break to relieve its leaden sameness, and the heavy flakes -falling with that persistent silence which adds so much to the -desolation of such a scene.</p> - -<p>“I was all for starting; for making some attempt either to get down, or -to recross the col. Martin was dead against it—and I think now he was<a name="page_017" id="page_017"></a> -right. First of all, we could not have seen more than a few yards ahead; -the rocks would have been considerably worse than they were the evening -before, and if we had once got involved amongst the crevasses it was on -the cards that we shouldn’t get clear of them again; added to this, even -if we could hit off the col, what with want of sleep and food, and the -fatigue consequent on several hours’ floundering in deep snow, we might -not have strength to reach it. At any rate, we decided not to start -until it cleared sufficiently to let us see where we were going. Our -meagre stock of provisions was redivided into three parts, one of which -we ate for breakfast. I then produced the pipe, but to our horror we -found the matches were still damp. Martin, who is a man of resource, -immediately opened his shirt and put the box containing them under his -arm to dry. Meanwhile the snow never ceased, and the day wore on without -a sign of the weather breaking. If it had not been for the excitement of -those matches, I do not know how we should have got through that day; at -last, however, after about six hours of Martin’s fond embrace, one -consented to burn, and I succeeded in lighting the pipe. We took turns -at twelve whiffs each, and no smoke, I can conscientiously say, have I -ever enjoyed like that one. During this never-ending day we got a few<a name="page_018" id="page_018"></a> -snatches of sleep, but the cold consequent on our wet clothes was so -great, our position so cramped, and the rocks on which we lay so -abominably sharp, that these naps were of the shortest duration.</p> - -<p>“A little before six the snow ceased, and for a moment the sun tried to -wink at us through a chink in his snow-charged blanket, before he went -to bed—long enough, however, for us to see La Grave far below, with -every alp almost down to the village itself covered with its white -mantle.</p> - -<p>“And then, as our second night closes in, the snow recommences, and we -draw closer together even than before; for we feel that during the long -hours to come we must economise to the fullest the little animal heat -left in us.</p> - -<p>“That night I learnt to shiver, not the ordinary shivers, but fits -lasting a quarter of an hour, during which no amount of moral persuasion -could keep your limbs under control; and it was so catching! If either -of us began a solo, the other was sure to join in, and we shivered a -duet until quite exhausted. As we had nothing to drink, I had swallowed -a considerable quantity of snow to quench my thirst, and this, acting on -an almost empty stomach, produced burning heat within, while the cold, -which was now intense, acting externally, induced fever and -light-headedness, and<a name="page_019" id="page_019"></a> once or twice I caught myself rambling. Martin, -too, was affected in the same way. The long hours wore on, and still -there was no sign of better weather. Towards midnight things looked very -serious. Martin, who had behaved like a brick, thought ‘it was very hard -to perish like this in the flower of his age,’ and I, too, thought of -writing a line as well as I was able in my pocket-book, bequeathing its -contents to my finder, then of sleeping if I could and waking up with -the Houris; but I had the laugh of him afterwards, because he thought -aloud and I to myself. However, this mood did not last long, and after -shaking hands, I do not quite know why, because we had not quarrelled, -we cuddled up again, and determined, whatever the weather, to start at -daybreak. In half an hour the snow ceased, the wind backed to the S., -and the temperature rose as if by magic; while the snow melting above -trickled down in little streams upon us. We cleared the snow off the -mackintosh, and putting it over us again, slept like logs in comparative -warmth. When I awoke the sun was well up, and on looking round I could -hardly realise the scene. Not a cloud in the sky! Not a breath of wind! -The rocks around us, which yesterday were absolutely buried, were -showing their black heads everywhere, and only a few inches of snow -remained, so rapid had been<a name="page_020" id="page_020"></a> the thaw; while far away to the N. the -snow-capped summits of the Pennine Alps stood out in bold relief against -the cloudless sky.</p> - -<p>“I woke Martin, and at a quarter to six, after thirty-five hours’ -burial, we crawled out of our shelter. At first neither of us could -stand, so chilled were we by long exposure, and so cramped by our -enforced position, but after a good thaw in the hot sun we managed to -hobble about, and pack the knapsacks. After eating the few scraps that -remained, we started at seven o’clock up the ridge that we had descended -two days before.</p> - -<p>“We were very shaky on our legs at first, but at each step the stiffness -seemed to wear off, and after half an hour we quite recovered their use; -but there remained an all-pervading sense of emptiness inside that was -not exhilarating. After ascending a short distance, and with my -telescope carefully examining the rocks, we determined to descend to the -glacier below us (the western branch), and crossing this get on to some -more rocks beneath the lower ice-fall. If we could get down these our -way seemed clear.</p> - -<p>“I won’t trouble you with the details of the descent: suffice it to say -that, without encountering any difficulty, we stepped on to grass about -twelve o’clock, and descending green slopes, still patched here and -there with snow (which would have provided<a name="page_021" id="page_021"></a> sufficient Edelweiss for all -the hats of the S.A.C.), we arrived safely at La Grave, after a pleasant -little outing of fifty-six hours. Mr Middlemore, despairing of my -coming, had started for England the night before, and had left Jaun to -await my arrival.</p> - -<p>“After a hot bath, and some bread-crumbs soaked in warm wine, I went to -bed, and the next morning I awoke as well as I am now, with the -exception of stiffness in the knees, and a slight frost-bite on one -hand. Martin, however, who, I suspect, had eaten a good deal on his -arrival, was seized with severe cramp, and for some hours was very ill.</p> - -<p>“Two days’ rest put us all to rights again.”</p> - -<p>Though rivalry may be keen between first-class guides, and bitter things -be said now and then in the heat of the struggle for first place, yet -when a great guide has passed away, it is seldom that one hears anything -but good of him. A pretty story is told—and I believe it is true—of -the son of old Maquignaz of Valtournanche, which exemplifies this -chivalrous trait. Maquignaz and Jean Antoine Carrel were often in -competition in the early days of systematic climbing, and if not -enemies, they were at any rate hardly bosom friends. Carrel’s tragic and -noble death on the Matterhorn will be recalled by readers of my <i>True -Tales of Mountain Adventure</i>. Not very long ago<a name="page_022" id="page_022"></a> a French climber was -making an ascent of the Italian side of the Matterhorn, with “young” -Maquignaz as guide. “Where did Carrel fall?” he innocently enquired, as -they ascended the precipitous cliffs on the Breuil side of the mountain. -Young Maquignaz turned sharply to him and exclaimed: “Carrel n’est pas -tombé! <i>Il est mort!</i>”<a name="page_023" id="page_023"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II<br /><br /> -<small>TWO DAYS ON AN ICE-SLOPE</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HERE are few instances so striking of the capacity of a party of -thoroughly experienced mountaineers to get out of a really tight place, -as was the outcome of the two days spent by Messrs Mummery, Slingsby, -and Ellis Carr, on an ice slope in the Mont Blanc district. The party -intended trying to ascend the Aiguille du Plan direct from the Chamonix -valley. Mr Ellis Carr has generously given me permission to make use of -his account, which I quote from <i>The Alpine Journal</i>. He relates the -adventures of himself and his two friends, whose names are household -words to climbers, as follows:—</p> - -<p>“Mummery, Slingsby, and I started at 4 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, with a porter carrying the -material for our camp. This comprised a silk tent of Mummery’s pattern, -only weighing 1½ to 2 lbs.; three eider-down sleeping-bags, 9 lbs.; -cooking apparatus of thin tin, 1½ lbs.; or, with ropes, rucksacks, and -sundries, about 25 lbs., in addition to the weight of the<a name="page_024" id="page_024"></a> provisions. -Though not unduly burdened, the porter found the valley of boulders -exceedingly troublesome, and in spite of three distinct varieties of -advice as to the easiest route across them, made such miserably slow -progress, often totally disappearing amongst the rocks like a -water-logged ship in a trough of the sea, that we were forced to pitch -our tents on the right moraine of the Nantillons Glacier, instead of -near the base of our peak, as intended. The <i>gîte</i>, built up with stones -on the slope of the moraine, with earth raked into the interstices, was -sufficiently comfortable to afford Mummery and myself some sleep. A -stone, however, far surpassing the traditional <i>gîte</i> lump in aggressive -activity, seemed, most undeservedly, to have singled out Slingsby as its -innocent victim, and, judging by the convulsions of his sleeping-bag, -and the sighs and thumps which were in full swing every time I woke up, -it must have kept him pretty busy all night dodging its attacks from -side to side. His account of his sufferings next morning, when Mummery -and I were admittedly awake, fully confirmed and explained these -phenomena, but on going for the enemy by daylight, he had the -satisfaction of finding that he had suffered quite needlessly, the stone -being loose and easily removed. We used Mummery’s silk tent for the -first time, and found that it afforded ample room for three<a name="page_025" id="page_025"></a> men to lie -at full length without crowding. The night, however, was too fine and -still to test the weather-resisting power of the material, and as this -was thin enough to admit sufficient moonlight to illuminate the interior -of the tent, and make candle or lamp superfluous, we inferred that it -might possibly prove to be equally accommodating in the case of rain and -wind. It was necessary, moreover, on entering or leaving the tent, to -adopt that form of locomotion to which the serpent was condemned to -avoid the risk of unconsciously carrying away the whole structure on -one’s back. We started next morning about three o’clock, leaving the -camp kit ready packed for the porter, whom we had instructed to fetch it -during the day, and pushed on to the glacier at the foot of our mountain -at a steady pace, maintained in my case with much greater ease than -would have otherwise been possible by virtue of some long, -single-pointed screw spikes inserted overnight in my boot soles; and I -may here venture to remark that a few of these spikes, screwed into the -boots before starting on an expedition where much ice-work is expected, -appear to offer a welcome compromise between ponderous crampons and -ordinary nails. They do not, I think, if not too numerous, interfere -with rock-climbing, and can be repeatedly renewed when worn down. A -slight modification in the shape<a name="page_026" id="page_026"></a> would further facilitate their being -screwed in with a box key made to fit.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> - -<p>“Leaving the rock buttress, the scene of our reconnaissance on the 11th, -on the right, we struck straight up the glacier basin between it and the -Aiguille de Blaitiére, which glacier appeared to me to be largely -composed of broken fragments of ice mixed with avalanche snow from the -hanging glaciers and slopes above. Keeping somewhat to the left, we -reached the <i>bergschrund</i>, which proved to be of considerable size, -extending along the whole base of the couloir, and crossed it at a point -immediately adjoining the rocks on the left. The axe at once came into -requisition, and we cut steadily in hard ice up and across the couloir -towards the small rib or island of rock before-mentioned as dividing it -higher up into two portions. The rocks at the base of this rib, though -steep, gritty, and loose, offered more rapid going than the ice, and we -climbed then to a gap on the ridge above, commanding a near view of the -perpendicular country in front of us. Far above us, and immediately over -the top of the right-hand section of the couloir, towered the ice cliffs -of the hanging glacier we had tried to reach on the 11th, and beyond -these again, in the grey morning light, we caught the glimpse of a -second and even a third<a name="page_027" id="page_027"></a> rank of <i>séracs</i> in lofty vista higher up the -mountain. As before observed, this section of the couloir seemed -admirably placed for receiving ice-falls, and we now saw that it formed -part of the natural channel for snow and <i>débris</i> from each and all of -these glaciers. We therefore directed our attention to our friend on the -left, and after a halt for breakfast, traversed the still remaining -portion of the dividing ridge, turning a small rock pinnacle on its -right, and recommenced cutting steps in the hard ice which faced us. As -has been before remarked, it is difficult to avoid over-estimating the -steepness of ice-slopes, but, allowing for any tendency towards -exaggeration, I do not think I am wrong in fixing the angle of the -couloir from this point as not less than 50°. We kept the axe steadily -going, and with an occasional change of leader, after some hours’ -unceasing work, found ourselves approaching the base of the upper -portion of the couloir, which from below had appeared perpendicular. We -paused to consider the situation. For at least 80 to 100 feet the ice -rose at an angle of 60° to 70°, cutting off all view of the face above, -with no flanking wall of rock on the right, but bounded on the left by -an overhanging cliff, which dripped slightly with water from melting -snow above. The morning was well advanced, and we kept a sharp look-out -aloft for any stray stones which might fancy a descent in our direction. -None came,<a name="page_028" id="page_028"></a> and we felt gratified at this confirmation of our judgment -as to the safety of this part of the couloir. However, the time for -chuckling had not yet come. As I stated, we had halted to inspect the -problem before us. Look as we might we could discover no possibility of -turning the ice wall either to the right or left, and though, as we -fondly believed and hoped, it formed the only barrier to easier going -above, the terrible straightness and narrowness of the way was -sufficient to make the very boldest pause to consider the strength of -his resources.</p> - -<p>“How long <i>I</i> should have paused before beating a retreat, if asked to -lead the way up such a place, I will not stop to enquire, but I clearly -remember that my efforts to form some estimate of the probable demand on -my powers such a feat would involve were cut short by Mummery’s quiet -announcement that he was ready to make the attempt. Let me here state -that amongst Mummery’s other mountaineering qualifications not the least -remarkable is his power of inspiring confidence in those who are -climbing with him, and that both Slingsby and I experienced this is -proved by the fact that we at once proceeded, without misgiving or -hesitation, to follow his lead. We had hitherto used an 80-feet rope, -but now, by attaching a spare 100-feet length of thin rope, used double, -we afforded the leader an additional 50 feet. Mummery commenced -cutting,<a name="page_029" id="page_029"></a> and we soon approached the lower portion of the actual ice -wall, where the angle of the slope cannot have been less than 60°.</p> - -<p>“I am not aware that any authority has fixed the exact degree of -steepness at which it becomes impossible to use the ice axe with both -hands, but, whatever portion of a right angle the limit may be, Mummery -very soon reached it, and commenced excavating with his right hand caves -in the ice, each with an internal lateral recess by which to support his -weight with his left. Slingsby and I, meanwhile possessing our souls in -patience, stood in our respective steps, as on a ladder, and watched his -steady progress with admiration, so far as permitted us by the falling -ice dislodged by the axe.</p> - -<p>“Above our heads the top of the wall was crowned by a single projecting -stone towards which the leader cut, and which, when reached, just -afforded sufficient standing-room for both feet. The ice immediately -below this stone, for a height of 12 or 14 feet, was practically -perpendicular, and Slingsby’s definition of it as a ‘frozen waterfall’ -is the most appropriate I can find. Here and there Mummery found it -necessary to cut through its entire thickness, exposing the face of the -rock behind.</p> - -<p>“On reaching the projecting stone the leader was again able to use the -axe with both hands, and slowly disappeared from view; thus completing,<a name="page_030" id="page_030"></a> -without pause or hitch of any kind, the most extraordinary feat of -mountaineering skill and nerve it has ever been my privilege to witness.</p> - -<p>“The top of the wall surmounted, Slingsby and I expected every moment to -hear the welcome summons to follow to easier realms above. None came. -Time passed, the only sounds besides the occasional drip of water from -the rocks on our left, or the growl of a distant avalanche, being that -of the axe and the falling chips of ice, as they whizzed by or struck -our heads or arms with increasing force. The sounds of the axe strokes -gradually became inaudible, but the shower continued to pound us without -mercy for more than an hour of inaction, perhaps more trying to the -nerves, in such a position, than the task of leading. The monotony was -to some extent varied by efforts to ward off from our heads the blows of -the falling ice, and by the excitement, at intervals, of seeing the -slack rope hauled up a foot or so at a time. It had almost become taut, -and we were preparing to follow, when a shout from above, which sounded -from where we stood muffled and far away, for more rope, kept us in our -places. It was all very well to demand more rope, but not so easy to -comply. The only possible way to give extra length was to employ the 100 -feet of thin rope single, instead of double, at which we hesitated<a name="page_031" id="page_031"></a> at -first, but, as Mummery shouted that it was absolutely necessary, we -managed to make the change, though it involved Slingsby’s getting out of -the rope entirely during the operation. To any one who has not tried it -I should hardly venture to recommend, as an enjoyable diversion, the -process, which must necessarily occupy both hands, of removing and -re-adjusting 180 feet of rope on an ice slope exceeding 60° at the top -of a steep couloir some 1000 feet high. The task accomplished, we had -not much longer to wait before the shout to come on announced the -termination of our martyrdom. We went on, but, on passing in turn the -projecting stone, and catching sight of the slope above, we saw at a -glance that our hopes of easy going must, for the present, be postponed. -Mummery, who had halted at the full extent of his tether of about 120 -feet of rope, was standing in his steps on an ice slope quite as steep -as that below the foot of the wall we had just surmounted. He had been -cutting without intermission for two hours, and suggested a change. -Being last on the rope, I therefore went ahead, cutting steps to pass, -and took up the work with the axe. The ice here was occasionally in -double layer, the outer one some 3 or 4 inches in thickness, which, when -cut through, revealed a space of about equal depth behind, an -arrangement at times very convenient,<a name="page_032" id="page_032"></a> as affording good hand-holes -without extra labour. I went on for some time cutting pigeon-holes on -the right side of the couloir, and, at the risk of being unorthodox, I -would venture to point out what appears to me the advantages of this -kind of step on very steep ice. Cut in two perpendicular rows, -alternately for each foot, the time lost in zigzags is saved, and no -turning steps are necessary; they do not require the ice to be cut away -so much for the leg as in the case of lateral steps, and are therefore -less easily filled up by falling chips and snow. Being on account of -their shape more protected from the sun’s heat, they are less liable to -be spoiled by melting, and have the further advantage of keeping the -members of the party in the same perpendicular line, and consequently in -a safer position. They also may serve as hand-holds. To cut such steps -satisfactorily it is necessary that the axe be provided with a point -long enough to penetrate to the full depth required for the -accommodation of the foot up to the instep, without risk of injury to -the shaft by repeated contact with the ice.</p> - -<p>“As we had now been going for several hours without food, and since -leaving the rock rib, where we had breakfasted, had come across no ledge -or irregularity of any kind affording a resting-place, it was with no -little satisfaction that I descried,<a name="page_033" id="page_033"></a> on the opposite side of the -couloir, at a spot about 30 or 40 feet above, where the cliff on our -left somewhat receded, several broken fragments of rock cropping out of -the ice, of size and shape to provide seats for the whole party. We cut -up and across to them, and sat down, or rather hooked ourselves on, for -a second breakfast. We were here approximately on a level with the -summit of our rock buttress of the 11th, and saw that it was only -connected with the mountain by a broken and dangerous-looking ridge of -ice and <i>névé</i> running up to an ice-slope at the foot of the glacier -cliffs. The gap in the latter was not visible from our position. The -tower we had tried to turn appeared far below, and the intervening rocks -of the buttress, though not jagged, were steep and smooth like a roof. -The first gleams of sunshine now arrived to cheer us, and, getting under -way once more, we pushed on hopefully, as the couloir was rapidly -widening and the face of the mountain almost in full view. We had also -surmounted the rock wall which had so long shut out the prospect on our -left, and it was at this point that, happening to glance across the -slabs, we caught sight of a large flat rock rapidly descending. It did -not bound nor roll, but slid quietly down with a kind of stealthy haste, -as if it thought, though rather late, it might still catch us, and was -anxious not to alarm<a name="page_034" id="page_034"></a> us prematurely. It fell harmlessly into the -couloir, striking the ice near the rock rib within a few feet of our -tracks, and we saw no other falling stones while we were on the -mountain.</p> - -<p>“Leaving the welcome resting-place, Mummery again took the lead, and cut -up and across the couloir, now becoming less steep, to a rib or patch of -rocks higher up on the right, which we climbed to its upper extremity, a -distance of some 70 or 80 feet.</p> - -<p>“Here, taking to the ice once more, we soon approached the foot of the -first great snow-slope on the face, and rejoiced in the near prospect of -easier going. At the top of this slope, several hundred feet straight -before us, was a low cliff or band of rocks, for which we decided to -aim, there being throughout the entire length of the intervening slope -no suspicious grey patches to indicate ice. The angle was, moreover, -much less severe, and it being once more my turn to lead, I went at it -with the zealous intention of making up time. My ardour was, however, -considerably checked at finding, when but a short distance up the slope, -that the coating of <i>névé</i> was so exceedingly thin as to be insufficient -for good footing without cutting through the hard ice below. Instead, -therefore, of continuing in a straight line for the rocks, we took an -oblique course to the right,<a name="page_035" id="page_035"></a> towards one of the hanging glaciers before -referred to, and crossing a longitudinal crevasse, climbed without much -difficulty up its sloping bank of <i>névé</i>. Hurrah! here was good snow at -last, only requiring at most a couple of slashes with the adze end of -the axe for each step. If this continued we had a comparatively easy -task before us, as the rocks above, though smooth and steep, were broken -up here and there by bands and streaks of snow. Taking full advantage of -this our first opportunity for making speed, we cut as fast as possible -and made height rapidly. We still aimed to strike the band of rocks -before described, though at a point much more to the right, and nearer -to where its extremity was bounded by the ice-cliffs of another hanging -glacier; but, alas! as we approached nearer and nearer to the base of -the cliffs, looming apparently higher and higher over our heads, the -favouring <i>névé</i>, over which we had been making such rapid progress, -again began to fail, and before we could reach the top of the once more -steepening slope the necessity of again resorting to the pick end of the -axe brought home the unwelcome conviction that our temporary respite had -come to an end, and that, instead of snow above, and apart from what -help the smooth rocks might afford, nothing was to be expected but hard, -unmitigated ice.<a name="page_036" id="page_036"></a></p> - -<p>“We immediately felt that, as it was already past noon, the -establishment of this fact would put a totally different complexion on -our prospects of success, and, instead of reaching the summit, we might -have to content ourselves with merely crossing the ridge. We continued -cutting, however, and reached the rocks, the last part of the slope -having once more become exceedingly steep. To turn the cliff, here -unclimbable, we first spent over half an hour in prospecting to the -right, where a steep ice-gully appeared between the rocks and the -hanging glacier; but, abandoning this, we struck off to the left, -cutting a long traverse, during which we were able to hitch the rope to -rocks cropping out through the ice. The traverse landed us in a kind of -gully, where, taking to the rocks whenever practicable, though climbing -chiefly by the ice, we reached a broken stony ledge, large and flat -enough to serve as a luncheon place, the only spot we had come across -since leaving the rock rib, where it was possible really to rest -sitting. Luncheon over, we proceeded as before, choosing the rocks as -far as possible by way of change, though continually obliged to take to -the ice-streaks by which they were everywhere intersected. This went on -all the rest of the afternoon, till, when daylight began to wane, we had -attained an elevation considerably<a name="page_037" id="page_037"></a> above the gap between our mountain -and the Aiguille de Blaitiére, or more than 10,900 feet above the sea.</p> - -<p>“The persistent steepness and difficulty of the mountain had already put -our reaching the ridge before dark entirely out of the question, though -we decided to keep going as long as daylight lasted, so as to leave as -little work as possible for the morrow.</p> - -<p>“The day had been gloriously fine, practically cloudless throughout, and -I shall never forget the weird look of the ice-slopes beneath, turning -yellow in the evening light, and plunging down and disappearing far -below in the mists which were gathering at the base of the mountain; -also, far, far away, we caught a glimpse of the Lake of Geneva, -somewhere near Lausanne. I had turned away from the retrospect, when an -exclamation from Slingsby called me to look once more. A gap had -appeared in the mists, and there, some 2700 feet below us, as it were on -an inferior stage of the world, we caught a glimpse of the snow-field at -the very foot of the mountain, dusky yellow in the last rays of the sun. -Mummery was in the meantime continuing the everlasting chopping, in the -intervals of crawling up disobliging slabs of rock, till twilight began -to deepen into darkness, and we had to look about for a perch on which<a name="page_038" id="page_038"></a> -to roost for the night. The only spot we could find, sufficiently large -for all three of us to sit, was a small patch of lumps of rocks, more or -less loose, some 20 or 30 feet below where we stood, and we succeeded, -just as the light failed, or about 8.30 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, and after some -engineering, in seating ourselves side by side upon it. Our boots were -wet through by long standing in ice-steps, and we took them off and -wrung the water out of our stockings. The others put theirs on again, -but, as a precaution against frost-bite, having pocketed my stockings, I -put my feet, wrapped in a woollen cap, inside the rucksack, with the -result that they remained warm through the night. The half hour which it -took me next morning to pull on the frozen boots proved, however, an -adequate price for the privilege of having warm feet. As a precaution -against falling off our shelf we hitched the rope over a rock above and -passed it round us, and to make sure of not losing my boots (awful -thought!), I tied them to it by the laces.</p> - -<p>“After dinner we settled down to spend the evening. The weather -fortunately remained perfect, and the moon had risen, though hidden from -us by our mountain. Immediately below lay Chamonix, like a cheap -illumination, gradually growing more patchy as the night advanced and -the candles<a name="page_039" id="page_039"></a> went out one by one, while above the stars looked down as -if silently wondering why in the world we were sitting there. The first -two hours were passed without very much discomfort, but having left -behind our extra wraps to save weight, as time wore on the cold began to -make itself felt, and though fortunately never severe enough to be -dangerous, made us sufficiently miserable. Packed as we were, we were -unable to indulge in those exercises generally adopted to induce warmth, -and we shivered so vigorously at intervals that, when all vibrating in -unison, we wondered how it might affect the stability of our perch. -Sudden cramp in a leg, too, could only be relieved by concerted action, -it being necessary for the whole party to rise solemnly together like a -bench of judges, while the limb was stretched out over the valley of -Chamonix till the pain abated, and it could be folded up and packed away -once more. We sang songs, told anecdotes, and watched the ghostly effect -of the moonlight on a subsidiary pinnacle of the mountain, the -illuminated point of which, in reality but a short distance away, looked -like a phantom Matterhorn seen afar off over an inky black <i>arête</i> -formed by the shadow thrown across its base by the adjoining ridge. We -had all solemnly vowed not to drop asleep, and for me this was -essential, as my centre of gravity was only just within the base of -support;<a name="page_040" id="page_040"></a> but while endeavouring to give effect to another chorus, in -spite of the very troublesome <i>vibrato</i> before referred to, I was -grieved and startled at the sudden superfluous interpolation of two -sustained melancholy bass notes, each in a different key and ominously -suggestive of snoring. The pensive attitude of my companions’ heads -being in keeping with their song, in accordance with a previous -understanding, I imparted to Mummery, who sat next to me, a judicious -shock, but, as in the case of a row of billiard balls in contact, the -effect was most noticeable at the far end, and <i>Slingsby</i> awoke, -heartily agreeing with me how weak it was of Mummery to give way thus. -The frequent necessity for repeating this operation, with strengthening -variations as the effect wore off, soon stopped the chorus which, like -Sullivan’s ‘Lost Chord,’ trembled away into silence.</p> - -<p>“The lights of Chamonix had by this time shrunk to a mere moth-eaten -skeleton of their earlier glory, and I became weakly conscious of a sort -of resentment at the callous selfishness of those who could thus sneak -into their undeserved beds, without a thought of the three devoted -explorers gazing down at them from their eyrie on the icy rocks.</p> - -<p>“From 2 to 4 o’clock the cold became more intense, aggravated by a -slight ‘breeze of morning,’ and<a name="page_041" id="page_041"></a> while waiting for dawn we noticed that -it was light enough to see.</p> - -<p>“Daylight, however, did not help Mummery to find his hat, and we -concluded it had retired into the <i>bergschrund</i> under cover of darkness.</p> - -<p>“We helped each other into a standing position, and decided to start for -the next patch of rocks above, from there to determine what chance of -success there might be in making a dash for the summit, or, failing -this, of simply crossing the ridge and descending to the Col du Géant. -There was very little food left, and, as we had brought no wine, -breakfast was reduced to a slight sketch, executed with little taste and -in a few very dry touches. Owing to the time required to disentangle -virulently kinked and frozen ropes, etc., the sun was well above the -horizon when we once more started upwards, though unfortunately, just at -this time, when his life-giving rays would have been most acceptable, -they were entirely intercepted by the ridge of the Blaitiére. We started -on the line of steps cut the night before, but soon after Mummery had -recommenced cutting, the cold, or rather the impossibility, owing to the -enforced inaction, to get warm, produced such an overpowering feeling of -drowsiness that Slingsby and I, at Mummery’s suggestion, returned to the -perch, and jamming ourselves into the space which had before -accommodated our six legs, endeavoured<a name="page_042" id="page_042"></a> to have it out in forty winks. -Mummery meanwhile continued step-cutting, and at the end of about half -an hour, during which Slingsby and I were somewhat restored by a fitful -dose, returned, and we tied on again for another attempt.</p> - -<p>“Surmounting the patches of rock immediately above our dormitory, we -arrived at the foot of another slope of terribly steep, hard ice, some -200 feet in height. At the top of this again was a vertical crag 14 or -15 feet high, forming the outworks of the next superior band of rocks, -which was interspersed with ice-streaks as before. A few feet from the -base of this crag was a narrow ledge about 1 foot in width, where we -were able to sit after scraping it clear of snow. Slingsby gave Mummery -a leg up round a very nasty corner, and he climbed to a point above the -crag, whence he was able to assist us with the rope up a still higher -and narrower ledge. Beyond was another steep slope of hard ice, topped -by a belt of rocks, as before.</p> - -<p>“Before reaching this point the cold had again begun to tell upon me, -and I bitterly regretted the mistaken policy of leaving behind our extra -wraps, especially as the coat I was wearing was not lined. As there was -no probability of a change for the better in the nature of the going -before the ridge was reached, I began to doubt the wisdom of proceeding, -affected as I was, where a false step might<a name="page_043" id="page_043"></a> send the whole party into -the <i>bergschrund</i> 3000 feet below; but it was very hard, with the summit -in view and the most laborious part of the ascent already accomplished, -to be the first to cry ‘Hold!’ I hesitated for some time before doing -so, and the others meanwhile had proceeded up the slope. The rope was -almost taut when I shouted to them the state of the case, and called a -council of war. They returned to me, and we discussed what was -practically something of the nature of a dilemma. To go on at the same -slow rate of progress and without the sun’s warmth meant, on the one -hand, the possible collapse of at least one of the party from cold, -while, on the other hand, to turn back involved the descent of nearly -3000 feet of ice, and the passage, if we could not turn it, of the -couloir and its ghastly ice-wall. Partly, I think, to delay for a time -the adoption of the latter formidable alternative, partly to set at rest -any doubt which might still remain as to the nature of the going above, -Mummery volunteered to ascend alone to the rocks at the summit of the -ice-slope, though the chance of their offering any improved conditions -was generally felt to be a forlorn hope. He untied the rope, threw the -end down to us, and retraced his steps up the slope, in due time -reaching the rocks some 100 or 130 feet above, but, after prospecting in -more than one direction, returned to us with the report that they<a name="page_044" id="page_044"></a> -offered no improvement, and that the intersecting streaks were nothing -but hard ice. He, however, was prepared to continue the attempt if we -felt equal to the task. If we could at that moment have commanded a cup -of hot soup or tea, or the woollen jackets which in our confidence in -being able to reach the ridge we had left behind, I am convinced I -should have been quite able to proceed, and that the day and the -mountain would have been ours; but in the absence of these reviving -influences and that of the sun, I was conscious that in my own case, at -any rate, it would be folly to persist, so gave my vote for descending. -As the food was practically exhausted, the others agreed that it would -be wiser to face the terrible ordeal which retracing our steps involved -(we did not then know that it meant recutting them), rather than -continue the ascent with weakened resources and without absolute -certainty of the accessibility of the summit ridge.</p> - -<p>“As Slingsby on the previous day had insisted on being regarded merely -as a passenger, and had therefore not shared in the step-cutting, it was -now arranged that he should lead, while Mummery, as a tower of strength, -brought up the rear. Though it was past five o’clock, and of course -broad daylight, a bright star could be seen just over the ridge of our -mountain, not far from the summit—alas! the only one anywhere near it -on that day. We started<a name="page_045" id="page_045"></a> downwards at a steady pace, and soon were -rejoicing in the returning warmth induced by the more continuous -movement. Before we had gone far, however, we found that most of the -steps were partially filled up with ice, water having flowed into them -during the previous afternoon, and the work of trimming or practically -recutting these was at times exceedingly trying, owing to their distance -apart, and the consequent necessity of working in a stooping and cramped -position.</p> - -<p>“But if the work was tough the worker, fortunately, was tougher still, -and Mummery and I congratulated ourselves on being able to send such -powerful reserves to the front.</p> - -<p>“The morning was well advanced before the sun surmounted the cold screen -of the Blaitiére, but having once got to work he certainly made up by -intensity for his tardy appearance.</p> - -<p>“The provisions, with the exception of a scrap or two of cheese and a -morsel of chocolate, being exhausted, and having, as before stated, -nothing with us in the form of drink, nothing was to be gained by a -halt, though, as we descended with as much speed as possible, we kept a -sharp look-out for any signs of trickling water with which to quench the -thirst, which was becoming distressing.</p> - -<p>“Since finally deciding to return, we had cherished the hope that it -might still be possible to turn the<a name="page_046" id="page_046"></a> ice-wall by way of the great rock -buttress, and made up our minds at any rate to inspect it from above. -With this in view, when the point was reached where we had on the -previous day struck the flank of the hanging glacier instead of -continuing in the tracks which trended to the right across the long -ice-slope, we cut straight down by the side of the glacier to its foot, -and over the slope below, in the direction of the <i>séracs</i> immediately -crowning the summit of the buttress.</p> - -<p>“On nearer approach, however, it was manifest that even if by hours of -step-cutting a passage from the ice to the rocky crest below could be -successfully forced, descent by the latter was more than doubtful, while -the consequences of failure were not to be thought of.</p> - -<p>“Driven, therefore, finally to descend by the couloir, we cut a -horizontal traverse which brought us back into the old tracks, a short -way above the point where the ice began to steepen for the final plunge, -where we braced ourselves for the last and steepest 1000 feet of ice. -Slingsby still led, and, on arriving at the spot below our second -breakfast-place, where I had last cut pigeon-holes, joyfully announced -that one of them contained water. He left his drinking cup in an -adjoining step for our use as we passed the spot in turn, and the fact -that it was only visible when on a level with our faces may give some -idea of the steepness of the descent. The delight of that<a name="page_047" id="page_047"></a> drink was -something to remember, though only obtainable in thimblefuls, and I -continued dipping so long that Mummery became alarmed, being under the -impression that the cup was filled each time.</p> - -<p>“Mummery had previously volunteered, in case we were driven to return by -the couloir, to descend first, and recut the steps and hand-holes in the -ice-wall, and as we approached the brink we looked about for some -projecting stone or knob of rock which might serve as a hitch for the -rope during the operation. The only available projection was a pointed -stone of doubtful security, somewhat removed from the line of descent, -standing out of the ice at the foot of a smooth vertical slab of rock on -the left. Round this we hitched the rope, Slingsby untying to give the -necessary length. With our feet firmly planted, each in its own -ice-step, we paid out the rope as Mummery descended and disappeared over -the edge. It was an hour before he re-appeared, and this period of -enforced inaction was to me, and I think to Slingsby, the most trying of -the whole expedition. The want of food was beginning to tell on our -strength, the overpowering drowsiness returned, and though it was -absolutely essential for the safety of the party to stand firmly in the -ice-steps, it required a strong effort to avoid dropping off to sleep in -that position. We were fortunately able to steady ourselves by grasping -the upper edge<a name="page_048" id="page_048"></a> of the ice where it adjoined the rocky slab under which -we stood. This weariness, however, must have been quite as much mental -as physical from the long-continued monotony of the work, for when -Mummery at last reappeared we felt perfectly equal to the task of -descending. The rope was passed behind a boss of <i>névé</i> ingeniously -worked by Mummery as a hitch to keep it perpendicular, and I descended -first, but had no occasion to rely upon it for more than its moral -support, as the steps and hand-holds had been so carefully cut. I -climbed cautiously down the icy cataract till I reached a point where -hand-holds were not essential to maintain the balance, and waited with -my face almost against the ice till Slingsby joined me. Mummery soon -followed, and rather than leave the spare rope behind detached it from -the stone and descended without its aid, his nerve being to all -appearance unimpaired by the fatigues he had gone through. I had before -had evidence of his indifference while on the mountains to all forms of -food or drink, with the single exception, by the way, of strawberry jam, -on the production of which he generally capitulates.</p> - -<p>“Rejoicing at having successfully passed the steepest portion of the -ice-wall without the smallest hitch of the wrong sort, we steadily -descended the face of the couloir.<a name="page_049" id="page_049"></a></p> - -<p>“Here and there, where a few of the steps had been hewn unusually far -apart, I was fain to cut a notch or two for the fingers before lowering -myself into the next one below. At last the rock rib was reached, and we -indulged in a rest for the first time since turning to descend.</p> - -<p>“Time, however, was precious, and we were soon under way again, -retracing our steps over the steep loose rocks at the base of the rib -till forced again on to the ice.</p> - -<p>“Oh, that everlasting hard ice-slope, so trustworthy yet so relentlessly -exacting!</p> - -<p>“Before we could clear the rocks, and as if by way of hint that the -mountain had had enough of us, and of me in particular (I could have -assured it the feeling was mutual), a flick of the rope sent my hat and -goggles flying down to keep company with Mummery’s in the <i>bergschrund</i>, -and a sharp rolling stone, which I foolishly extended my hand to check, -gashed me so severely as to put climbing out of the question for more -than a week. As small pieces of ice had been whizzing down for some time -from above, though we saw no stones, it was satisfactory to find our -steps across the lower part of the couloir in sufficiently good order to -allow of our putting on a good pace, and we soon reached the sheltering -rock on the opposite side and the slopes below the <i>bergschrund</i> wherein -our hats, after losing their heads,<a name="page_050" id="page_050"></a> had found a grave. The intense -feeling of relief on regaining, at 5.55 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, safe and easy ground, -where the lives of the party were not staked on every step, is difficult -to describe, and was such as I had never before experienced. I think the -others felt something like the same sensation. Fatigue, kept at bay so -long as the stern necessity for caution lasted, seemed to come upon us -with a rush, though tempered with the sense of freedom from care -aforesaid, and I fancy our progress down the glacier snow was for a time -rather staggery. Though tired, we were by no means exhausted, and after -a short rest on a flat rock and a drink from a glacier runnel, found -ourselves sufficiently vigorous to make good use of the remaining -daylight to cross the intervening glaciers, moraines, and valley of -boulders, before commencing to skirt the tedious and, in the dark, -exasperating stony wastes of the Charmoz ridge. Sternly disregarding the -allurements of numerous stonemen, which here seem to grow wild, to the -confusion of those weak enough to trust them, we stumbled along amongst -the stones to the brow of the hill overlooking the hotel, where shouts -from friends greeted the appearance of our lantern, and, descending by -the footpath, we arrived among them at 10.30 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, more than fifty-four -hours after our departure on the 12th.”<a name="page_051" id="page_051"></a></p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_078a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_078a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_078a_sml.jpg" width="325" height="226" alt="On a snow ridge." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">On a snow ridge.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_078c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_078c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_078c_sml.jpg" width="330" height="234" alt="A halt for lunch above the snow line." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A halt for lunch above the snow line.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_078b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_078b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_078b_sml.jpg" width="328" height="259" alt="Mrs. Aubrey le Blond, 1903. By Royston Le Blond." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Mrs. Aubrey le Blond, 1903. By Royston Le Blond.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_078d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_078d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_078d_sml.jpg" width="328" height="228" alt="Mrs. Aubrey le Blond. By Joseph Imboden. - -To face p. 51." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Mrs. Aubrey le Blond. By Joseph Imboden.<br /> -To face p. 51.</span> -</p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III<br /><br /> -<small>SOME AVALANCHE ADVENTURES</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">W</span>E should never have got into such a position, but when definite orders -are not carried out the General must not be blamed. The adventure might -easily have cost all three of us our lives.</p> - -<p>This is how we came to be imperilling our necks on an incoherent -snow-ridge 13,000 feet above the sea. It was the end of September, and -my two guides and I were waiting at Zermatt to try the Dent Blanche, a -proceeding which, later on, was amply justified by success. Much fresh -snow had recently fallen, and the slopes of the mountains were running -down towards the valleys faster than the most active chamois could have -galloped up them. Idleness is an abomination to the keen climber, and -doubly so if he be an enthusiastic photographer, and the sun shone each -day from a cloudless sky. Something had to be done, but what could we -choose? All the safe second-class ascents up which one might wade -through fresh<a name="page_052" id="page_052"></a> snow without risk, we had accomplished over and over -again. Something new to us was what we wanted, and what eventually we -found in the stately Hohberghorn. Now this peak is seldom ascended. It -is overtopped by two big neighbours, and until these have been done, no -one is likely to climb the less imposing peak. Furthermore, the -Hohberghorn is a grind, and though we got enough excitement and to spare -out of it, yet in our case the circumstances were peculiar. The view was -certain to be grand, and, <i>faute de mieux</i>, we decided to start for it.</p> - -<p>On this occasion, in addition to my guide of many years’ standing, the -famous Joseph Imboden of St Nicholas, I had a second man, who had a -great local reputation in his native valley at the other end of -Switzerland (and deservedly so, as far as his actual climbing ability -was concerned), but who had never been on a rope with Imboden before. -This was the cause of the appalling risk we ran during our expedition. -We arrived in good time at the hut, and found another party, who -proposed going up the Dom, the highest mountain entirely in Switzerland -(14,900 feet) next day. Our way lay together for a couple of hours over -the great glacier, and we proceeded the following morning in magnificent -weather towards our respective peaks.</p> - -<p>It was heavy work ploughing our way through<a name="page_053" id="page_053"></a> the soft new snow, and we -could not advance except very slowly. As a result, it was already -mid-day when we gained the ridge of the Hohberghorn, not far below the -summit. The sun streamed pitilessly down, the snow cracked and slipped -at every step. To understand what followed, our position must now be -made clear. Imboden, who led, was on the very crest of the ridge. Next -to him on the rope, at a distance of about 20 feet, was my place, also -on the ridge. At an equal distance behind me was the second guide. He -was a trifle below the ridge, on the side to our left. We stood still -for a moment, and then Imboden distinctly but very quietly remarked to -the other man, “Be on your guard. At any moment now we may expect an -avalanche.” I never to this day can understand how he failed to grasp -what this meant. It should have been obvious that it was a warning to -look out, and at the first sign of approaching danger to step down on to -the other side of the ridge. Had not this been a perfectly simple thing -to do, we should not have continued the ascent, but the second guide -failed us hopelessly when the critical moment came. Imboden, to avoid a -small cornice or overhanging eave of snow to our right, now took a few -steps along and below the ridge to the left, while the man behind me -came in the tracks to the crest, and I followed the leader. From<a name="page_054" id="page_054"></a> this -position the last man could in an instant have been down the slope to -his right, and have held us with the greatest ease.</p> - -<p>We advanced a yard or two further, and then the entire surface upon -which we stood commenced to move! A moment more and we were struggling -for our lives, dashing our axes through the rushing snow, and -endeavouring to arrest our wild career, which, unless checked at once, -would cause us to be precipitated down the entire face of the mountain, -to the glacier below. Then it was that the firm bed of snow beneath the -newer layer stood us in good stead. Our axes held, and, breathless, -bruised and startled, we found ourselves clinging to the slope, while -the avalanche, momentarily increasing in volume, thundered down towards -the snow-fields below, where at length, heaped high against the -mountain-side, it came to rest.</p> - -<p>We now took stock of the position. We were practically unhurt, but so -confused and rapid had been the slip that the rope was entangled round -us in a manner wonderful to behold. There was nothing to prevent us -reaching the summit, for every atom of fresh snow had been swept away -from the slope, so we continued our climb, and soon were able to rest on -the top. To this day, Imboden and I always look back to our adventure<a name="page_055" id="page_055"></a> -on the Hohberghorn as the greatest peril either of us has ever faced.</p> - -<p>More than one instance has been recorded where, owing to the prompt -action of the last man on the rope, fatal accidents on snow-ridges have -been avoided. The two most famous occasions in Alpine annals<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> were -when Hans Grass saved his party on Piz Palü, and when Ulrich Almer -performed his marvellous feat on the Gabelhorn. It is true that in both -these cases the risk was due to the breaking away of a snow-cornice, but -the remedy was exactly the same as it ought to have been when our -avalanche was started.</p> - -<p>I have only to add that we found the other party at the hut, much -exhausted by their unsuccessful attempt on the Dom, and very anxious on -our account, as they both heard and saw the avalanche which had so -nearly ended our mountaineering career.</p> - -<p>The famous climber, Mr Tuckett, has very kindly allowed me to quote from -<i>Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers</i>, the following description of a narrow -escape from an avalanche while descending the Aletschhorn:</p> - -<p>“We had accomplished in safety a distance of scarcely more than 150 -yards when, as I was looking at the Jungfrau, my attention was<a name="page_056" id="page_056"></a> -attracted by a sudden exclamation from Victor, who appeared to stagger -and all but lose his balance. At first, the idea of some sort of seizure -or an attack of giddiness presented itself, but, without stopping to -enquire, I at once turned round, drove my good 8-foot ash-pole as deeply -as possible through the surface layer of fresh snow into the firmer -stratum beneath, tightened the rope to give Victor support, and shouted -to Peter to do the same. All this was the work of an instant, and a -glance at once showed me what had happened. Victor was safe for the -moment, but a layer or <i>couche</i> of snow, 10 inches to a foot in -thickness, had given way exactly beneath his feet, and first gently, and -then fleet as an arrow, went gliding down, with that unpleasant sound -somewhat resembling the escape of steam, which is so trying to the -nerves of the bravest man, when he knows its full and true significance. -At first a mass 80 to 100 yards in breadth and 10 or 15 in length alone -gave way, but the contagion spread, and ere another minute had elapsed -the slopes right and left of us for an extent of at least half a mile, -were in movement, and, like a frozen Niagara, went crashing down the -ice-precipices and <i>séracs</i> that still lay between us and the Aletsch -glacier, 1800 to 2000 feet below. The spectacle was indescribably -sublime, and the<a name="page_057" id="page_057"></a> suspense for a moment rather awful, as we were -clinging to an incline at least as steep as that on the Grindelwald side -of the Strahleck—to name a familiar example—and it was questionable -whether escape would be possible, if the layer of snow on the portion of -the slope we had just been traversing should give way before we could -retrace our steps.</p> - -<p>“Not a moment was to be lost; no word was spoken after the first -exclamation, and hastily uttered, ‘Au col! et vite!’ and then in dead -silence, with <i>bâtons</i> held aloft like harpoons, ready to be plunged -into the lower and older layers of snow, we stole quietly but rapidly up -towards the now friendly-looking <i>corniche</i>, and in a few minutes stood -once more in safety on the ridge, with feelings of gratitude for our -great deliverance, which, though they did not find utterance in words, -were, I believe, none the less sincerely felt by all of us. ‘Il n’a -manqué que peu à un grand malheur,’ quietly remarked Victor, who looked -exhausted, as well he might be after what he had gone through; but a -<i>goutte</i> of cognac all round soon set us right again, and shouting to -Bennen, who was still in sight, though dwindled in size to a mere point, -we were soon beside him, running down the <i>névé</i> of our old friend, the -Aren Glacier. The snow was now soft and the heat<a name="page_058" id="page_058"></a> tremendous, and both -Bennen and Bohren showed signs of fatigue; but a rapid pace was still -maintained in spite of the frequent crevasses. Some were cleared in a -series of flying leaps, whilst into others which the snow concealed, one -and another would occasionally sink, amid shouts of laughter from his -companions, who, in their turn, underwent a similar fate. To the -carefully secured rope, which, with the alpenstock and ice axe, are the -mountaineer’s best friends, we owed it that these sudden immersions were -a mere matter of joke; but even the sense of security which it confers -does not altogether prevent a ‘creepy’ sensation from being experienced, -as the legs dangle in vacancy, and the sharp metallic ring of the icy -fragments is heard as they clatter down into the dark blue depths -below.”</p> - -<p>The higher and more snow-laden the mountain chain, the more risk is -there from avalanches. It seems practically certain that Mr Mummery met -his death in the Himalayas from an avalanche, and that Messrs Donkin and -Fox and their two Swiss guides perished in the Caucasus from a like -cause. Sir W. Martin Conway, in his book on the Himalayas, makes several -allusions to avalanches, and on at least one occasion, some members of -his party had a narrow escape. He relates the adventure as follows:<a name="page_059" id="page_059"></a></p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_088a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_088a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_088a_sml.jpg" width="329" height="228" alt="A cutting through an immense avalanche which fell some -months previously." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A cutting through an immense avalanche which fell some -months previously.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_088b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_088b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_088b_sml.jpg" width="327" height="226" alt="The remains of a large avalanche." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The remains of a large avalanche.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_088c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_088c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_088c_sml.jpg" width="327" height="232" alt="An avalanche of stones." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">An avalanche of stones.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_088d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_088d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_088d_sml.jpg" width="330" height="239" alt="A mountain chapel near Zermatt where special prayers are -offered for defence against avalanche. - -To face p. 59." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A mountain chapel near Zermatt where special prayers are -offered for defence against avalanche.<br /> - -To face p. 59.</span> -</p> - -<p>“Zurbriggen and I had no more than set foot upon the grass, when we -beheld a huge avalanche-cloud descending over the whole width of the -ice-fall, utterly enveloping both it and a small rock-rib and couloir -beside it. Bruce and the Gurkhas were below the rib, and could only see -up the couloir. They thought the avalanche was a small one confined to -it, and so they turned back and ran towards the foot of the ice-fall. -This was no improvement in position, and there was nothing for them to -do then but to run straight away from it, and get as far out to the flat -glacier as they could. The fall started from the very top of the Lower -Burchi peak, and tumbled on to the plateau above the ice-fall; it flowed -over this, and came down the ice-fall itself. We saw the cloud before we -heard the noise, and then it only reached us as a distant rumble. We had -no means of guessing the amount of solid snow and ice that there might -be in the heart of the cloud. The rumble increased in loudness, and was -soon a thunder that swallowed up our puny shouts, so that Bruce could -not hear our warning. Had he heard he could easily have reached the -sheltered position we gained before the cloud came on him. Zurbriggen -and I cast ourselves upon our faces, but only the edge of the cloud and -an ordinary strong wind reached us. Our companions were entirely -enveloped in it.<a name="page_060" id="page_060"></a> They afterwards described to us how they raced away -like wild men, jumping crevasses which they could not have cleared in -cold blood. When the snow just enveloped them, the wind raised by it -cast them headlong on the ice. This, however, was the worst that -happened. The snow peppered them all over, and soaked them to the skin, -but the solid part of the avalanche was happily arrested in the midst of -the ice-fall, and never came in sight. When the fog cleared they were -all so out of breath that for some minutes they could only stand and -regard one another in panting silence. They presently rejoined us, and -we halted for a time on the pleasant grass.”</p> - -<p>In the olden days, before the great Alpine lines had tunnelled beneath -the mountains and made a journey from one side of the range to the other -in midwinter as safe and as comfortable as a run from London to -Brighton, passengers obliged to cross the Alps in winter or spring were -exposed to very real peril from avalanches. Messrs Newnes have -courteously allowed me to make a short extract from an article which -appeared in one of their publications, and in which is described the -adventures of two English ladies who were obliged to return home -suddenly from Innsbruck on account of the illness of a near relative. -Their shortest route was by <i>diligence</i> to Constance, over<a name="page_061" id="page_061"></a> the Arlberg -Pass, and although it was considered extremely dangerous at that time of -year—the beginning of May 1880—they resolved to make the attempt. Much -anxiety with regard to avalanches was felt in neighbouring villages, as -the sun had lately been very hot, and the snow had become rotten and -undermined. Owing to heavy falls during the previous winter, the -accumulation of snow was enormous, and thus the two travellers set out -under the worst possible auspices. The conductor of the <i>diligence</i> -warned them of the danger, and told them on no account to open a window -or to make any movement which could shake the coach. He got in with them -and sat opposite, looking very worried and anxious. They reached the -critical part of their journey, and, to quote Mrs Brewer’s words:</p> - -<p>“Suddenly a low, booming sound, like that of a cannon on a battlefield -or a tremendous peal of thunder, broke on our ears, swelling into a -deafening crash; and in a moment we were buried in a vast mass of snow. -One of the immense piles from the mountain above had crashed down upon -us, carrying everything with it. At the same moment we felt a violent -jerk of the coach, and heard a kind of sound which expressed terror; -but, happily, our vehicle did not turn over, as it seemed likely to do -for a<a name="page_062" id="page_062"></a> minute or so. There we sat—for how long I know not—scarcely -able to breathe, the snow pressing heavily against the windows, and -utterly blocking out light and air, so that breathing was a painful -effort. And now came a curious sensation. It was an utter suspension of -thought, and of every mental and physical faculty.</p> - -<p>“True, in a sort of unconscious way I became aware that the guard was -sobbing out a prayer for his wife and children; but it had not the -slightest effect on me.</p> - -<p>“We might have been buried days and nights for all I knew, for I kept no -count of time. In reality, I believe it was but a couple of hours -between the fall of the avalanche and the first moment of hope, which -came in the form of men striking with pickaxes. The sound seemed to come -from a long distance—almost, as it were, from another world.</p> - -<p>“The guard, roused by the noise, said earnestly: ‘Ach Gott! I thank -Thee.’ And then, speaking to us, he said: ‘Ladies, help is near!’</p> - -<p>“Gradually the sound of the digging and the voices of the men grew -nearer, till at length one window was open—the one overlooking the -valley; and the life-giving air stole softly in upon us. Even now, -however, we were told not to move; not that we had any inclination to do -so, for we<a name="page_063" id="page_063"></a> were in a dazed, half-conscious condition. When at length we -used our eyes, it was to note that the valley did not seem so deep, and -that the villages with their church spires had disappeared; the meaning -of it was not far to seek.</p> - -<p>“We were both good German scholars, and knew several of the dialects, so -that we were able to learn a good deal of what had happened by listening -to the men’s talk. The school inspector in his terror had lost all -self-control, and forgetful of the warnings given him, threw himself off -the seat and leaped into space, thereby endangering the safety of all. -He mercifully fell into one of the clumps of trees some distance down -the slope, and so escaped without very much damage to himself, except -shock to the system and bruises. The poor horses, however, fared -infinitely worse. The weight of the snow lifted the rings from the hooks -on the carriage, and at the same time carried the poor brutes down with -it into the valley—never again to do a day’s work.</p> - -<p>“The difficulties still before us were very serious. We could neither go -backward nor forward, and there was danger of more avalanches falling. -The next posting village was still far ahead, and there was no chance of -our advancing a step until the brave body of men could cut a way through -or<a name="page_064" id="page_064"></a> make a clearance, and even then time would be required to bring back -horses.”</p> - -<p>The ladies were at last extricated from their still dangerous position, -and amid a scene of the greatest excitement, arrived at a little -Tyrolese village. The people could not do enough to welcome them, and -every kindness was shown to them. Thus ended a wonderfully narrow escape -for all who were concerned in the adventure.<a name="page_065" id="page_065"></a></p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_096a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_096a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_096a_sml.jpg" width="231" height="326" alt="A mountain path." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A mountain path.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_096b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_096b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_096b_sml.jpg" width="238" height="326" alt="A village completely buried beneath an avalanche." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A village completely buried beneath an avalanche.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_096c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_096c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_096c_sml.jpg" width="229" height="329" alt="Peasants of the mountains." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Peasants of the mountains.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_096d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_096d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_096d_sml.jpg" width="237" height="325" alt="Terraces cut on the hill sides and planted with trees to -prevent the fall of avalanches. -To face p. 65." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Terraces cut on the hill sides and planted with trees to -prevent the fall of avalanches.<br /> - -To face p. 65.</span> -</p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV<br /><br /> -<small>A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">O</span>NE of the treasures of collectors of Alpine books is a small volume in -Italian by Ignazio Somis. The British Museum has not only a copy of the -original, but also a couple of translations, from one of which, -published in 1768, I take the following account. I have left the quaint -old spelling and punctuation just as they were; they accentuate the -vividness and evident truth of this “True and Particular Account of the -most Surprising preservation and happy deliverance of three women,” who -were buried for a month under an avalanche. The occurrence was fully -investigated by Ignazio Somis, who visited the village of Bergemoletto, -and obtained his narrative from the lips of one of the survivors.</p> - -<p>“In the month of February and March of the year 1755, we had in Turin, a -great fall of rain, the sky having been almost constantly overcast from -the ninth of February till the twenty-fourth of March. During this -interval, it rained almost every<a name="page_066" id="page_066"></a> day, but snowed only on the morning of -the twenty-first of February, when the liquor of Reaumur’s thermometer -stood but one degree above the freezing point. Now, as it often snows in -the mountains, when it only rains in the plain; it cannot appear -surprising that during this interval, there fell vast quantities of snow -in the mountains that surround us, and in course, several valancas<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> -were formed. In fact, there happened so many in different places on the -side of Aosta, Lanzo, Susa, Savoy, and the county of Nice, that by the -end of March, no less than two hundred persons had the misfortune of -losing their lives by them. Of these overwhelmed by these valancas, -three persons, however, Mary Anne Roccia Bruno, Anne Roccia, and -Margaret Roccia, had reason to think themselves in other respects, -extremely happy, having been dug alive on the twenty-fifth of April, out -of a stable, under the ruins of which, they had been buried, the -nineteenth of March, about nine in the morning, by a valanca of snow, -forty-two feet higher than the roof, to the incredible surprise of all -those who saw them, and afterwards heard them relate how they lived all -this while, with death, as we may say, continually staring them in the -face.</p> - -<p>“The road from Demonte to the higher valley of Stura, runs amidst many -mountains, which, joining<a name="page_067" id="page_067"></a> one another, and sometimes rising to a great -height, form a part of those Alps, by historians and geographers, called -maritime Alps, separating the valley of Stura and Piedmont, from -Dauphiny and the county of Nice. Towards the middle of the road leading -to the top of these mountains, and on the left of the river Stura, we -meet with a village called Bergemolo, passing through which village, and -still keeping the road through the said valley, we, at about a mile -distance, arrive at a little hamlet called Bergemoletto, containing -about one hundred and fifty souls. From this place there run two narrow -lanes, both to the right and left, one less steep and fatiguing than the -other, and in some measure along two valleys, to the mountains. The -summit of the mountain makes the horizon an angle much greater than 45°, -and so much greater in some places, as to be in a manner perpendicular, -so that it is a very difficult matter to climb it, even by a winding -path. Now it was from the summit of the aforesaid mountains that fell -the valancas of snow, which did so much mischief, and almost entirely -destroyed the hamlet of Bergemoletto.</p> - -<p>“The bad weather which prevailed in so many other places, prevailed -likewise in the Foresta of Bergemoletto. By this word Foresta, the -Alpineers understand the villages dispersed over the vallies<a name="page_068" id="page_068"></a> covered -with small trees and bushes, and surrounded with high mountains; for it -began to snow early in March, and the fall increased so much on the 16, -17, 18 and 19, that many of the inhabitants began to apprehend, and not -without reason, that the weight of that which was already fallen, and -still continued to fall, might crush their houses, built with stones -peculiar to the country, cemented by nothing but mud, and a very small -portion of lime, and covered with thatch laid on a roof of shingles and -large thin stones, supported by thick beams. They, therefore, got upon -their roofs to lighten them of the snow. At a little distance from the -church, stood the house of Joseph Roccia, a man of about fifty, husband -of Mary Anne, born in Demonte, of the family of Bruno; who, with his son -James, a lad of fifteen, had, like his neighbours, got upon the roof of -his house on the 19th in the morning in order to lessen the weight on -it, and thereby prevent its destruction. In the meantime the clergyman -who lived in the neighbourhood, and was about leaving home, in order to -repair to the church, and gather his people together to hear mass; -perceiving a noise towards the top of the mountains, and turning his -trembling eyes towards the quarter from whence he thought it came, -discovered two valancas driving headlong towards the village. Wherefore -raising his voice<a name="page_069" id="page_069"></a> he gave Joseph notice, instantly to come down from -the roof, to avoid the impending danger, and then immediately retreated -himself into his own house.</p> - -<p>“These two valancas met and united, so as to form but one valanca which -continued to descend towards the valley, where, on account of the -increase of its bulk, the diminution of its velocity and the insensible -declivity of the plane it stopped and arrested by the neighbouring -mountain, though it covered a large tract of land, did no damage either -to the houses or the inhabitants. Joseph Roccia, who had formerly -observed that the fall of one valanca was often attended with that of -others, immediately came off the roof at the priest’s notice, and with -his son fled as hard as he could towards the church, without well -knowing, however, which way he went; as is usually the case with the -Alpineers, when they guess by the report in the air, that some valanca -is falling or seeing it fall with their own eyes. The poor man had -scarce advanced forty steps, when hearing his son fall just at his -heels, he turned about to assist him, and taking him up, saw the spot on -which his house, his stable, and those of some of his neighbours stood, -converted into a huge heap of snow, without the least sign of either -walls or roofs. Such was his agony at this sight, and at the<a name="page_070" id="page_070"></a> thoughts -of having lost in an instant, his wife, his sister, his family, and all -the little he had saved, with many years increasing labour and economy, -that hale and hearty, as he was, he immediately, as if heaven and earth -were come together, lost his senses, swooned away, and tumbled upon the -snow. His son now helped him, and he came to himself little by little; -till at last, by leaning upon him, he found himself in a condition to -get on the valanca, and, in order to re-establish his health there, set -out for the house of his friend, Spirito Roccia, about one hundred feet -distant from the spot, where he fell. Mary Anne, his wife, who was -standing with her sister-in-law Anne, her daughter Margaret, and her son -Anthony, a little boy two years old, at the door of the stable, looking -at the people throwing the snow from off the houses, and waiting for the -ringing of the bell that was to call them to prayers, was about taking a -turn to the house, in order to light a fire, and air a shirt for her -husband, who could not but want that refreshment after his hard labour. -But before she could set out, she heard the priest cry out to them to -come down quickly, and raising her trembling eyes, saw the foresaid -valancas set off, and roll down the side of the mountain, and at the -same instant heard a horrible report from another quarter, which made -her retreat back quickly with her family, and shut<a name="page_071" id="page_071"></a> the door of the -stable. Happy it was for her, that she had time to do so; this noise -being occasioned by another immense valanca, the whole cause of all the -misery and distress, she had to suffer for so long a time. And it was -this very valanca, over which Joseph, her husband was obliged to pass -after his fit, in his way to the house of Spirito Roccia.</p> - -<p>“Some minutes after the fall of the valanca another huge one broke off -driving along the valley and beat down the houses which it met in its -course. This valanca increased greatly, by the snow over which it -passed, in its headlong course, and soon reached with so much -impetuosity, the first fallen valanca, it carried away great part of it; -then returning back with this reinforcement, it demolished the houses, -stopping in the valley which it had already overwhelmed in its first -progress. So that the height of the snow, Paris measure, amounted to -more than seventy-seven feet; the length of it to more than four hundred -and twenty-seven and the breadth above ninety-four. Some people affirm -that the concussion of the air occasioned by this valanca, was so great, -that it was heard at Bergemolo, and even burst open some doors and -windows at that place. This I know that nothing escaped it in -Bergemoletto, but a few houses, the church, and the house of John -Arnaud.<a name="page_072" id="page_072"></a></p> - -<p>“Being therefore gathered together, in order to sum up their -misfortunes, the inhabitants first counted thirty houses overwhelmed; -and then every one calling over those he knew, twenty-two souls were -missing, of which number, was D. Giulio Caesare Emanuel, their parish -priest, who had lived among them forty years. The news of this terrible -disaster, soon spread itself over the neighbourhood, striking all those -who heard it, with grief and compassion. All the friends and relations -of the sufferers, and many others, flocked of their own accord, from -Bergemolo and Demonte; and many were dispatched by the magistrates of -these places, to try if they could give any relief to so many poor -creatures, who, perhaps, were already suffocated by the vast heap of -snow that lay upon them; so that by the day following, the number -assembled on this melancholy occasion amounted to three hundred. Joseph -Roccia, notwithstanding his great love for his wife and family, and his -desire to recover part of what he had lost, was in no condition to -assist them for five days, owing to the great fright and grief, -occasioned by so shocking an event, and the swoon which overtook him at -the first sight of it. In the meantime, the rest were trying, if, by -driving iron-rods through the hardened snow, they could discover any -roofs; but they tried in vain. The great solidity and compactness of the -valanca, the vast<a name="page_073" id="page_073"></a> extent of it in length, breadth and heighth, together -with the snow, that still continued to fall in great quantities, eluded -all their efforts; so that after some days’ labour, they thought proper -to desist from their trials, finding that it was throwing away their -time and trouble to no purpose. The husband of poor Mary Anne, no sooner -recovered his strength, than in company with his son, and Anthony and -Joseph Bruno, his brothers-in-law who had come to his assistance from -Demonte, where they lived, did all that lay in his power to discover the -spot, under which his house, and the stable belonging to it, were -situated. But neither himself, nor his relations, could make any -discovery capable of affording them the smallest ray of comfort; though -they worked hard for many days, now in one place, and now in another, -unable to give up the thoughts of knowing for certain, whether any of -their family was still alive, or if they had under the snow and the -ruins of the stable, found, at once, both death and a grave. But it was -all labour lost, so that, at length, he thought proper to return to the -house of Spirito Roccia, and there wait, till, the weather growing -milder, the melting of the snow should give him an opportunity of paying -the last duty to his family, and recovering what little of his substance -might have escaped this terrible calamity.</p> - -<p>“Towards the end of March, the weather, through<a name="page_074" id="page_074"></a> the lengthening of the -days, and the setting in of the warm winds, which continued to blow till -about the twentieth of April, began to grow mild and warm; and, of -course, the great valanca to fall away by the melting of the snow and -ice that composed it; so that little by little, the valley began to -assume its pristine form. This change was very sensible, especially by -the eighteenth of April, so that the time seemed to be at hand for the -surviving inhabitants of Bergemoletto to resume their interrupted -labours, with some certainty of recovering a good part of what they had -lost on the unfortunately memorable morning of the nineteenth of March. -Accordingly, they dispersed themselves over the valanca, some trying in -one place, and some in another, now with long spades, and another time -with thick rods of iron, and other instruments proper to break the -indurated snow. One of the first houses they discovered by this means, -was that of Louisa Roccia, in which they found her dead body, and that -of one of her sons. Next day, in the house called the confreria, that -had two rooms on the ground floor, and one above them, they found the -body of D. Giulio Caesare Emanuel, with his beads in his hand. Joseph -Roccia, animated by these discoveries, set himself with new spirits -about discovering the situation of his house, and the stable belonging -to it; and with spades and iron crows, made several and deep holes in -the snow,<a name="page_075" id="page_075"></a> throwing great quantities of earth into them; earth mixed -with water, being very powerful in destroying the strong cohesion of -snow and ice. On the twenty-fourth, having made himself an opening two -feet deep into the valanca, he began to find the snow softer and less -difficult to penetrate; wherefore, driving down a long stick, he had the -good fortune of touching the ground with it.</p> - -<p>“It was no small addition to Joseph’s strength and spirit, to be thus -able to reach the bottom; so that he would have joyfully continued his -labour, and might perhaps on that very day, had it not been too far -advanced, have recovered some part of what he was looking for, and found -that which, assuredly, he by no means expected to meet with. When, -therefore, he desisted for that time, it was with much greater -reluctance than he had done any of the preceding days. The anxiety of -Joseph, during the following night, may well be compared to that of the -weather-beaten mariner, who finding himself, after a long voyage, at the -mouth of his desired port, is yet, by the coming on of night obliged to -remain on the inconstant waves till next morning. Wherefore, at the -first gleam of light, he, with his son, hastened back to the spot, where -the preceding day he had reached the ground with the stick, and began to -work upon it again; but he had not worked long, when lo, to his great<a name="page_076" id="page_076"></a> -surprise, who should he see coming to his assistance but his two -brothers-in-law Joseph and Anthony Bruno.</p> - -<p>“Anthony, it seems, the night between the preceding Thursday and Friday, -being then in Delmonte, dreamed that there appeared to him, with a pale -and troubled countenance, his sister Mary Anne Roccia, who, with an -earnestness intermixed with grief and hope, called upon him for -assistance in the following words:</p> - -<p>“‘Anthony, though you all look upon me as dead in the stable where the -valanca of snow overwhelmed me on the nineteenth of March, God has kept -me alive. Hasten therefore to my assistance, and to relieve me from my -present wretched condition; in you, my brother, have I placed all my -hopes, dont abandon me; help, help I beseech you.’ Anthony’s -imagination, was so affected by the thoughts of thus seeing his sister, -and hearing her utter these piteous words, that he immediately started -up, and calling out to his brother Joseph, he acquainted him with what -he had seen and heard. They both, therefore, as soon as it was day, set -out for Bergemoletto, where they arrived a little before eight, tired -and out of breath, for they seemed to have their sister continually -before their eyes, pressing them for help and assistance. Having -therefore taken a little rest and refreshment,<a name="page_077" id="page_077"></a> they set out again for -the place, where Joseph Roccia, and many others, were hard at work in -looking for the wrecks of their houses. Joseph had left the spot, where, -the day before he thought he had reached the ground, and was trying to -reach it in other places. His brothers-in-law immediately fell to work -with him, and making many new holes in the snow, the interior parts of -which were not so very hard, with the same iron rods, with earth and -with long poles, they at last, about ten, discovered the so long sought -for house, but found no dead bodies in it. Knowing that the stable did -not lie one hundred feet from the house, they immediately directed their -search towards it, and proceeding in the same manner, about noon, they -got a long pole through a hole, from whence issued a hoarse and languid -voice, which seemed to say: ‘help, my dear husband, help, my dear -brother, help.’ The husband and brother thunderstruck, and at the same -time encouraged by these words, fell to their work with redoubled -ardour, in order to clear away the snow, and open a sufficient way for -themselves, to the place from whence the voice came, and which grew more -and more distinct as the work advanced. It was not long, therefore, -before they had made a pretty large opening, through which (none minding -the danger he<a name="page_078" id="page_078"></a> exposed himself to) Anthony descended, as into a dark -pit, asking who it was, that could be alive in such a place. Mary Anne -knew him by his voice, and answered with a trembling and broken accent, -intermixed with tears of joy. ‘Tis I, my dear brother, who am still -alive in company with my daughter and my sister-in-law, who are at my -elbow. God, in whom I have always trusted, still hoping that he would -inspire you with the thought of coming to our assistance, has been -graciously pleased to keep us alive.’ God, who had preserved them to -this moment, and was willing they should live, inspired Anthony with -such strength and spirits, that, notwithstanding the surprise and -tenderness with which so joyful and at the same time so sad a sight must -have affected him, had presence of mind enough to acquaint his -fellow-labourers, all anxiously waiting for the report of his success, -that Mary Anne, Margaret, and Anne Roccia were still alive. Whereupon -Joseph Roccia, and Joseph Bruno, enlarging the passage as well as they -could, immediately followed him into the ruins; whilst the other -Alpineers, scattered over the valanca in quest of their lost substance, -and the dead bodies of their relations, on the son’s calling out to -them, flocked round the mouth of the pit, to behold so extraordinary a -sight; not a little heightened by that of two live goats scampering out -of<a name="page_079" id="page_079"></a> the opening. In the meantime, those who had descended into the hole, -were contriving how to take out of it the poor and more than half dead -prisoners, and convey them to some place, where they might recover -themselves. The first thing they did was to raise them up, and take them -out of the manger in which they had been so long stowed. They then -placed them one by one on their shoulders, and lifted them up to those -who stood round the mouth of the pit, who with very great difficulty -took hold of them by the arms, and drew them out of their dark -habitation. Mary Anne, on being exposed to the open air, and seeing the -light, was attacked by a very acute pain in the eyes, which greatly -weakened her sight, and was attended with so violent a fainting fit, -that she had almost like to have lost, in the first moment of her -deliverance, that life, which she had so long and with such difficulty -preserved. But this was a consequence that might be easily foreseen. She -had been thirty-seven days, secluded, in a manner entirely, from the -open air; nor had the least ray of light, in all that time, penetrated -her pupils.</p> - -<p>“Her son found means to bring her to herself with a little melted snow, -there being nothing else at hand fit for the purpose, and the accident -that happened her was improved into a rule for treating the companions<a name="page_080" id="page_080"></a> -of her misfortune. They, therefore, covered all their faces, and wrapped -them up so well, as to leave them but just room to breathe, and in this -condition took them to the house of John Arnaud, where Mary Anne was -entirely recovered from her fit, by a little generous wine. They then -directly placed them in some little beds put up in the stable, which was -moderately warm, and almost entirely without light, and prepared for -them a mess of rye meal gruel, mixed with a little butter; but they -could swallow but very little of it.”<a name="page_081" id="page_081"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V<br /><br /> -<small>A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE—(<i>continued</i>)</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">“I</span>T is now proper I should say something of the most marvellous -circumstance, attending this very singular and surprising accident, I -mean their manner of supporting life, during so long and close a -confinement. I shall relate what I have heard of it from their own -mouths, being the same, in substance, with what Count Nicholas de -Brandizzo, intendant of the city and province of Cuneo, heard from them -on the sixteenth of May, when, by order of our most benevolent -sovereign, he repaired to Bergemoletto, effectually to relieve these -poor women, and the rest of the inhabitants, who had suffered by the -valanca.</p> - -<p>“To begin then; on the morning of the twenty-ninth of March, our three -poor women, expecting every minute to hear the bell toll for prayers, -had in the mean time, taken shelter from the rigour of the weather, in a -stable built with stones, such as are usually found in these quarters, -with a roof composed of large thin stones, not unlike slate, laid on a -beam ten<a name="page_082" id="page_082"></a> inches square, and covered with a small quantity of straw, and -with a pitch sufficient to carry off the rain, hail or snow, that might -fall upon it. In the same stable were six goats, (four of which I heard -nothing of) an ass and some hens. Adjoining to this stable, was a little -room, in which they had fixed a bed, and used to lay up some provisions, -in order to sleep in it in bad weather without being obliged to go for -anything to the dwelling-house, which lay about one hundred feet from -it. I have already taken notice, that Mary Anne was looking from the -door of the stable at her husband and son, who were clearing the roof of -its snow, when warned by a horrible noise, the signal by which the -Alpineer knows the tumbling of the valancas, she immediately took -herself in with her sister-in-law, her daughter, and her little boy of -two years old, and shut the door, telling them the reason for doing it -in such a hurry. Soon after they heard a great part of the roof give -way, and some stones fall on the ground, and found themselves involved -on all sides with a pitchy darkness; all which they attributed, and with -good reason, to the fall of some valanca. Upon this, they for some time -thought proper to keep a profound silence, to try if they could hear any -noise, and by that means have the comfort of knowing that help was at -hand, but they could hear nothing. They therefore set themselves to -grope about the stable, but without being<a name="page_083" id="page_083"></a> able to meet with anything -but solid snow. Anne light upon the door, and opened it, hoping she had -found out the way to escape the imminent danger they thought they were -in of the buildings tumbling about their ears; but she could not -distinguish the least ray of light, nor feel any thing but a hard and -impenetrable wall of snow, with which she acquainted her fellow -prisoners. They, therefore, immediately began to bawl out with all their -might; ‘help, help, we are still alive’; repeating it several times; but -not hearing any answer, Anne put the door to again. They continued to -grope about the stable, and Mary Anne having light upon the manger, it -occurred to her, that, as it was full of hay, they might take up their -quarters there, and enjoy some repose, till it should please the -Almighty to send them assistance. The manger was about twenty inches -broad, and lay along a wall, which, by being on one side supported by an -arch, was enabled to withstand the shock, and upheld the chief beam of -the roof, in such a manner, as to prevent the poor women from being -crushed to pieces by the ruins. Mary Anne placed herself in the manger, -putting her son by her, and then advised her daughter and her -sister-in-law to do so too. Upon this, the ass which was tied to the -manger, frightened by the noise, began to bray and prance at a great -rate; so that, fearing lest he should bring the parapet of the manger, -or<a name="page_084" id="page_084"></a> even the wall itself about their ears; they immediately untied the -halter, and turned him adrift. In going from the manger, he stumbled -upon a kettle that happened to lie in the middle of the stable, which -put Mary Anne upon picking it up, and laying it by her, as it might -serve to melt the snow in for their drink, in case they should happen to -be confined long enough to want that resource. Anne, approving this -thought, got down, and groping on the floor till she had found it, came -back to the manger.</p> - -<p>“In this situation the good women continued many hours, every moment -expecting to be relieved from it; but, at last, being too well -convinced, that they had no immediate relief to expect, they began to -consider how they might support life, and what provisions they had with -them for that purpose. Anne recollected that the day before she had put -some chestnuts into her pocket, but, on counting them, found they -amounted only to fifteen. Their chief hopes, therefore, and with great -reason now rested on thirty or forty cakes, which two days before had -been laid up in the adjoining room. The reader may well imagine, though -Anne had never told me a word of it, with what speed and alertness she -must, on recollecting these cakes, have got out of the manger, to see -and find out the door of the room where they lay; but it was to no -purpose; she roved and roved about the stable<a name="page_085" id="page_085"></a> to find out what she -wanted, so that she was obliged to come as she went, and take up her -seat again amongst her fellow-sufferers, who still comforted themselves -with the hopes of being speedily delivered from that dark and narrow -prison. In the mean while, finding their appetite return, they had -recourse to their chestnuts. The rest of the chestnuts they reserved for -a future occasion. They then addressed themselves to God, humbly -beseeching him to take compassion on them, and vouchsafe in his great -mercy to rescue them from their dark grave, and from the great miseries -they must unavoidably suffer, in case it did not please him to send them -immediate assistance. They spent many hours in ejaculations of this -kind, and then thinking it must be night, they endeavoured to compose -themselves. Margaret and the little boy, whose tender years prevented -their having any idea of what they had to suffer in their wretched -situation, or any thought of death, and of what they must suffer, before -they could be relieved, fell asleep. But it was otherwise with Mary Anne -and Anne, who could not get the least rest, and spent the whole night in -prayer, or in speaking of their wretched condition, and comforting one -another with the hopes of being speedily delivered from it. As it seemed -to them, after many hours, that it was day again, they endeavoured to -keep up their<a name="page_086" id="page_086"></a> spirits with the thoughts, that Joseph with the rest of -their friends and relations not getting any intelligence of their -situation, would not fail of doing all that lay in their power to come -at them. The sensation of hunger was earliest felt by the two youngest; -and the little boy crying out for something to eat, and there being -nothing for him but the chestnuts, Anne gave him three.</p> - -<p>“I said, that these women seemed to have some notion of the approach of -day and night, but I should never have dreamed in what manner this idea -could be excited in them, shut up as they were in a body of ice, -impervious to the least ray of light, had not they themselves related it -to me. The hens shut up in the same prison, were it seems the clocks, -which by their clucking all together, made them think the first day that -it was night, and then again after some interval that it was day again. -This is all the notion they had of day and night for two weeks together; -after which, not hearing the hens make any more noise, they no longer -knew when it was day or night.</p> - -<p>“This day the poor women and the boy supported themselves with their -chestnuts; and at the return of the usual signal of night, the boy and -Margaret went to sleep; while the mother and aunt spent it in -conversation and prayer. On the next day the ass by his braying, gave -now and then, for the<a name="page_087" id="page_087"></a> last time, some signs of life. On the other hand, -the poor prisoners had something to comfort themselves with; for they -discovered two goats making up to the manger. This, therefore, was a -joyful event, and they gave the goats some of the hay they sat upon in -the manger, shrunk up with their knees to their noses. It then came into -Anne’s head to try if she could not get some milk from the milch goat; -and recollecting that they used to keep a porringer under the manger for -that purpose, she immediately got down to look for it, and happily found -it. The goat suffered herself to be milked, and yielded almost enough to -fill the cup which contained above a pint. On this they lived the third -day. The night following the boy and the girl slept as usual, while -neither of the two others closed their eyes. Who can imagine how long -the time must have appeared to them, and how impatient they must have -been to see an end to their sufferings? This, after offering their -prayers to the Almighty, was the constant subject of their conversation. -‘O, my husband,’ Mary Anne used to cry out, ‘if you two are not buried -under some of the valancas and dead; why do not you make haste to give -me, your sister, and children, that assistance which we so much stand in -need of? We are thank God, still alive, but cannot hold out much longer, -so it will soon be too<a name="page_088" id="page_088"></a> late to think of us.’ ‘Ah, my dear brother,’ -added Anne, ‘in you next to God, have we placed all our trust. We are -alive, indeed, and it depends upon you to preserve our lives, by digging -us out of the snow and the ruins, in which we lie buried.’ ‘But let us -still hope,’ both of them added, ‘that as God has been pleased to spare -our lives, and provide us with the means of prolonging it, he will still -in his great mercy put it into the hearts of our friends and relations -to use all their endeavours to save us.’ To this discourse succeeded new -prayers, after which they composed themselves as well as they could, in -order to get, if possible, a little sleep.</p> - -<p>“The hens having given the usual signal of the return of day, they began -again to think on the means of spinning out their lives. Mary Anne -bethought herself anew of the cakes put up in the adjacent room; and -upon which, could they but get at them, they might subsist a great while -without any other nourishment. On the first day of their confinement, -they had found in the manger a pitch fork, which they knew used to be -employed in cleaning out the stable, and drawing down hay through a -large hole in the hay-loft, which lay over the vault. Anne observed, -that such an instrument might be of service in breaking the snow, and -getting at the cakes, could they but recover the door leading into the -little room.<a name="page_089" id="page_089"></a> She, therefore, immediately got out of the manger, from -which she had not stirred since the first day, and groping about, -sometimes meeting with nothing but snow, sometimes with the wall, and -sometimes loose stones, she, at length, light upon a door, which she -took for the stable door, and endeavoured to open it as she had done the -first day, but without success; an evident sign that the superincumbent -snow had acquired a greater degree of density, and pressed more forcibly -against it. She, therefore, made step by step, the best of her way back -to the manger, all the time conversing with her fellow-sufferers; and -taking the fork with her, continued to rove and grope about, till at -last she light upon a smooth and broad piece of wood, which to the touch -had so much the appearance of the little door, as to make her hope she -had at last found what she had been so earnestly looking for. She then -endeavoured to open it with her hand, but finding it impossible, told -the rest that she had a mind to employ the pitch fork; but Mary Anne -dissuaded her from doing so. ‘Let us,’ said she, ‘leave the cakes where -they are a little longer, and not endanger our lives any further, by -endeavouring to preserve them. Who knows but with the fork, you might -make such destruction, as to bring down upon our heads, that part of the -stable that still continues together, and which, in its fall, could not -fail of crushing us to pieces. No, God keep us from that<a name="page_090" id="page_090"></a> misfortune. -Lay down your fork Anne, and come back to us, submitting yourself to the -holy will of the Almighty, and patiently accept at his hands whatever he -may please to send us.’ Anne, moved by such sound and affecting -arguments and reasons, immediately let the fork fall out of her hands, -and returned to the manger. ‘Let us,’ continued Mary Anne, ‘let us make -as much as we can of our nursing goats, and endeavour to keep them alive -by supplying them with hay. Here is a good deal in the manger, and it -occurs to me, that when that is gone, we may supply them from another -quarter, for by putting up my hand, trying what was above me, I have -discovered that there is hay in the loft, and that the hole to it is -open, and just over our heads; so that we have nothing to do, but to -pull it down for the goats, whose milk we may subsist upon, till it -shall please God to dispose otherwise of us.”</p> - -<p>This reasoning was not only sound in itself, but supported by facts; for -ever since their confinement, they had heard stones fall from time to -time upon the ground, and these stones could be no others than those of -the building, which the shock of the valanca had first loosened, and -which the weight it every day acquired by encreasing in density, -afterwards enabled it to displace. Wherefore, had she happened to -disturb with the pitch-fork, as there was the greatest reason to fear -she might, any of those parts, which,<a name="page_091" id="page_091"></a> united together, served to keep -up the beam that supported the great body of snow, under which they lay -buried, the fall of the stable, and their own destruction, must have -infallibly been the consequence of it.</p> - -<p>“This day the sensation of hunger was more and more lively and -troublesome, without their having anything to allay it with but snow, -and the milk yielded them by one of the goats their fellow prisoners. I -say one of the goats for as yet they had milked but one of them, -thinking it would be useless, or rather hurtful, even if they could, to -take any milk from that in kid. Anne had recourse to the other, and in -the whole day, got from her about two pints of milk, on which, with the -addition of a little snow, they subsisted.”</p> - -<p>The little boy, unable to struggle against the terrible conditions, grew -rapidly weaker and weaker, and the time had now come when he passed -painlessly away.</p> - -<p>“The death of this poor child proved the severest trial that the three -women, the two eldest especially, had to suffer during their long -confinement; and from this unfortunate day, the fear of death, which -they considered as at no great distance, began to haunt them more and -more. The little nourishment, which the goat yielded the poor women, had -made them suffer greatly on the preceding days; they<a name="page_092" id="page_092"></a> were, besides, -benumbed, or rather frozen with the intense cold. Add to this the -necessary, but inconvenient and tormenting posture of their feet, knees, -and every other part of their bodies; the snow, which melting over their -heads, perpetually trickled down their backs, so that their clothes, and -their whole bodies were perfectly drenched with it: they were often on -the point of swooning away, and obliged to keep themselves from -fainting, by handling the snow, and putting some of it into their -mouths; the thirst with which their mouths were constantly burnt up; the -thoughts, that in all this time no one had been at the pains to look for -and relieve them; the consideration, that all they had hitherto -suffered, was nothing in comparison of what they had still to suffer -before they could recover their liberty, or sink under the weight of all -the evils which encompassed them; all these, certainly, were -circumstances sufficient to render them to the last degree, wretched and -miserable. Add to this, that the milk of their fond and loving nurse, -fell away little by little, till at length, instead of about two pints, -which she, in the beginning used to yield, they could not now get so -much as a pint from her. The hay that lay in the manger was all out, and -it was but little the poor women could draw out of the hole which lay -above them; so that as the goats had but little<a name="page_093" id="page_093"></a> fodder, little -sustenance could be expected from that which they thought proper to -milk. These animals were become so tame and familiar, in consequence of -the fondness shewn them, that they always came on the first call to the -person that was to milk them, affectionately licking her face and hands. -Anne, encouraged by this tameness of theirs, bethought herself of -accustoming them to leap upon the manger, and from thence upon her -shoulders, so as to reach the hole of the hay-loft, and feed themselves; -so apt is hard necessity to inspire strength and ingenuity. She began by -the goat that yielded them milk, helping her up into the manger, and -then putting her upon her shoulders. This had the desired effect, the -animal being thereby enabled to reach much further with its head, than -they could with their hands. They did then the same by the other goat, -from whom, as soon as she should drop her kid, they expected new relief. -She, too, in the same manner, found means to get at the hay, which -afforded the poor women some relief in the midst of their pressing -necessity. After this day, the goats required no further assistance, -they so soon learned to leap of themselves on the manger, and from -thence on the women’s shoulders. But we must not conclude that hunger -was the chief of the poor women’s sufferings; far from it. After the -first days, during<a name="page_094" id="page_094"></a> which it proved a sore torment to them, they through -necessity, grew so accustomed to very little and very light nourishment, -that they no longer felt any sensation of that kind, but lived -contentedly on the small quantity of milk they could get from their -goat, mixed with a little snow. Their breath was what gave them most -uneasiness; for it began to be very difficult on the fifth or sixth day, -every inspiration being attended with the sensation of a very heavy and -almost insupportable load upon them.</p> - -<p>“They now had lost all means of guessing at the returns of night and -day, and their only employment was to recommend themselves fervently to -God, beseeching him to take compassion of them, and at length, put an -end to their miseries, which increased from day to day. At last, their -nurse growing dry, they found themselves without any milk, and obliged -to live upon snow alone for two or three days, Mary Anne not approving -an expedient proposed by her sister. This was to endeavour to find the -carcasses of the hens; for as they had not heard them for some days -past, they had sufficient reason to think they were dead; and then eat -them, as the only thing with which they could prolong life. But Mary -Anne, rightly judging that it would be almost impossible to strip them -clean of their feathers, and that<a name="page_095" id="page_095"></a> besides, the flesh might be so far -putrified, as to do them more harm than good, thought proper to dissuade -her sister from having recourse to this expedient. But the unspeakable -providence of God, whose will it was that they should live, provided -them with new means of subsistence, when least they expected it, by the -kidding of the other goat. By this event, they judged themselves to be -about the middle of April; wherefore, after offering God their most -humble thanks, for having preserved them so long, in the midst of so -many, and such great difficulties they again beseeched him to assist -them effectually, till they could find an opportunity of escaping their -doleful prison, and see an end to their great sufferings. Their hopes of -this their humble supplication being heard, were raised on the -appearance of this new supply, and on their reflecting that the snow -begins to thaw in April, in consequence of which that about the stable -would soon dissolve enough to let some ray of light break in upon them. -Mary Anne told me, that, though she was thoroughly sensible of the -badness of her condition, in which it was impossible for her to hold out -much longer, and saw it every day grow worse and worse; she never, -however, despaired of her living to be delivered. For my part, I cannot -sufficiently admire the courage and intrepidity of Anne, who<a name="page_096" id="page_096"></a> told me, -that in all this time she never let a tear escape her but once. This was -on its occurring to her, that, as they must at length perish for want, -it might fall to her lot to die last. For the thought of finding herself -amidst the dead bodies of her sister and her niece, herself too in a -dying condition, terrified and afflicted her to such a degree, that she -could no longer command her tears, but wept bitterly.</p> - -<p>“I observed, that the goat had kidded. This event afforded the poor -women a new supply of milk, Anne for a while getting two porringers at a -time from her, with which they recruited themselves a little. But as the -goats began to fall short of hay, the milk of the only one that gave -them any, began to lessen in proportion, so that at length they saw -themselves reduced to a single, and even half a porringer. It was, -therefore, happy for them, that the time drew nigh, in which God had -purposed to rescue them from their horrible prison and confinement, and -put an end to their sufferings. One time they thought they could hear a -noise of some continuance at no great distance from them. This was -probably the 20th, when the parish priest’s body was found. And, upon -it, they all together raised their weak and hoarse voices, crying out, -‘Help, help!’ but the noise ceased, and they this time neither saw nor -heard anything else that might serve as a token of their deliverance -being at hand.<a name="page_097" id="page_097"></a> However, this noise alone was sufficient to make them -address God with greater fervour than ever, beseeching him to have -compassion on them, and to confirm them still more and more in their -warm hopes, that the end of their long misery was not far off. In fact, -they again heard another noise, and that nearer them, as though -something had fallen to the ground. On this they again raised their -voices, and again cried out, ‘Help, help’: but no one answered, and soon -after the noise itself entirely ceased. Their opinion concerning this -noise, and in this they certainly were not mistaken, was that it came -from the people, who were at work to find them, and who left off at the -approach of night, and went home with a design to return to their labour -the next morning. After the noise of the body fallen to the ground in -their neighbourhood, they seemed for the first time to perceive some -glimpse of light. The appearance of it scared Anne and Margaret to the -last degree, as they took it for a sure fore-runner of death, and -thought it was occasioned by the dead bodies; for it is a common opinion -with the peasants that those wandering wild-fires, which one frequently -sees in the open country, are a sure presage of death to the persons -constantly attended by them, which ever way they turn themselves; and -they accordingly call them death fires. But Mary Anne, was very far -from<a name="page_098" id="page_098"></a> giving in to so silly a notion. On the contrary the light inspired -her with new courage, and she did all that lay in her power to dissipate -the fears of her sister and daughter, revive their hopes in God, and -persuade them that their deliverance and the end of all their sufferings -was at hand; insisting that this light could be no other than the light -of heaven, which had, at last, reached the stable, in consequence of the -valanca’s melting, and still more in consequence of the constant boring -and digging into it by their relations, in order to come at their dead -bodies. Mary Anne guessed right for it was the next day that Anthony -descended into the ruins of the stable, and to his unspeakable surprise -found the poor women alive, blessing and exalting the most high, and -restored them from darkness to light, from danger to security, from -death to life, by drawing them out of the manger, and removing them to -the house of Joseph Arnaud, where they continued to the end of July.</p> - -<p>“Thirty-seven entire days did these poor women live in the most horrible -sufferings occasioned no less by filth and the disagreeable posture they -were confined to, than by cold and hunger; but the Lord was with them. -He kept them alive, and they are still living, in a new cottage built -the same year in the Foresta of Bergemoletto, at no great distance from -their former habitation.”<a name="page_099" id="page_099"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI<br /><br /> -<small>AN EXCITING CAUCASIAN ASCENT</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE following account of the ascent of Gestola, in the Central Caucasus, -is taken from <i>The Alpine Journal</i>, and the author, Mr C. T. Dent, has -most kindly revised it for this work, and has added a note as follows:</p> - -<p>“At the time (1886) when this expedition was made, the topography of the -district was very imperfectly understood. The mountain climbed was -originally described as Tetnuld Tau—Tau = Mountain. Since the -publication of the original paper a new survey of the whole district has -been carried out by the Russian Government and the nomenclature much -altered. The peak of Tetnuld is really to the south of Gestola. The -nomenclature has in the following extract been altered so as to -correspond with that at present in use and officially sanctioned.”</p> - -<p>The party consisted of Mr Dent, the late Mr W. F. Donkin, and two Swiss -guides. They had safely accomplished the first part of their ascent of a -hitherto unclimbed peak, and were on the ridge<a name="page_100" id="page_100"></a> and face to face with -the problem of how to reach the highest point. After describing the -glorious scenery which lay around them, Mr Dent writes:</p> - -<p>“Woven in between all these peaks lay a wilderness of crevassed slopes, -jagged rock ridges, and stretching glaciers, bewildering in their beauty -and complexity. To see the wondrous sights that were crowded into those -few minutes while we remained on the ridge, we would willingly have gone -five times further and fared ten times worse. In high spirits we turned -to the left (S.S.E.), and began our journey along the ridge which was to -lead us to Gestola, ever keeping an eye on the snowy form of Tetnuld, -and marvelling whether it would overtop our peak or not. For a few -steps, and for a few only, all went well. The snow was in good order on -the ridge, but we had to leave this almost immediately and make S.W. in -order to skirt the heights which still intervened between us and our -peak. The ice began to change its character. Two or three steps were cut -with a few strokes of the axe, and then all went well again for a time. -Then more steps, and a more ringing sound as the axe fell. We seemed, -too, however we might press on, to make no impression on this first -slope. Our doubt returned; the leader paused, drew up the rope, and bit -at a fragment of ice as he gazed anxiously upwards over the face. No! we -were on the right track, and must stick to it if we would<a name="page_101" id="page_101"></a> succeed. For -an hour and a quarter we kept at it in silence, save for the constant -ringing blows of the axe. Our courage gradually oozed out, for when we -had worked back to the ridge again, we seemed to have made no progress -at all. The top of the mountain far above was already swathed in cloud, -and a distant storm on the south side was only too obvious. Another -little peak was won before we looked about again, but the summit seemed -no nearer. The exertion had begun to tell and the pace became slower. -Some one remarked that he felt hungry, and we all thereupon realised our -empty state, so we fortified ourselves for further efforts on a dainty -repast of steinbock, black bread a week old, and water—invigorating -victuals and exhilarating drink, rather appropriate to the treadmill -kind of exercise demanded. It is under conditions such as these that -strange diet tells on the climber; but even more trying and more -weakening than the poor quality of the food was the want of sleep from -which we had suffered for a good many nights. In the language of -science, our vital force and nervous energy were becoming rather rapidly -exhausted, or, to put it more colloquially and briefly, we were awfully -done. Three hours more at least was the estimate, and meanwhile the -weather was growing worse and worse. Reflecting that all points fall to -him who knows how to wait and stick to it, we<a name="page_102" id="page_102"></a> pressed on harder to -escape from the dispiriting thoughts that suggested themselves, and -almost of a sudden recognised that the last of the deceptive little tops -had been left behind us, and that we were fighting our way up the final -peak. Better still, Tetnuld, which for so long had seemed to tower above -us, was fast sinking in importance, and there really seemed now, as we -measured the peak with the clinometer between the intervals of -step-cutting, to be little difference between the two points. The air -was so warm and oppressive that we were able to dispense with gloves. -One of the guides suffered from intense headache, but the rest of us, I -fancy, felt only in much the same condition as a man does at the finish -of a hard-run mile race. The clouds parted above us for a while, -mysteriously, as it seemed, for there was no wind to move them; but we -could only see the slope stretching upwards, and still upwards. Yet we -could not be far off now. Again we halted for a few seconds, and as we -glanced above, we mentally took stock of our strength, for there was no -question the pleasure had been laborious. Some one moved, and we were -all ready on the instant. To it once more, and to the very last victory -was doubtful. True, the summit had seemed close enough when the last -break in the swirling clouds had enabled us to catch a glimpse of what -still towered above; but our experience of<a name="page_103" id="page_103"></a> Swiss snow mountains was -long enough to make us sceptical as to apparent tops, and possibly the -Caucasian giants were as prone to deceive as the human pigmies that -crawled and burrowed at their bases.</p> - -<p>“Still anxious, still questioning success, we stepped on, and the pace -increased as the doubt persisted. It is often said to be impossible, by -those who don’t try, to explain why the second ascent of a mountain -always appears so much easier than the first; some explanation may be -found in the fact that on a virgin peak the uncertainty is really -increasing during the whole time, and the climax comes in the last few -seconds. Every step upwards make success more probable, and at the same -time, would make failure more disappointing. In fact, the only periods -when we are morally certain of success on a new expedition are before -the start and when victory is actually won. Still, we could hardly -believe that any insuperable obstacle would now turn us back; yet all -was new and uncertain, and the conditions of weather intensified the -anxiety. The heavy stillness of the air seemed unnatural, and made the -mind work quicker. The sensibility became so acute that if we ceased -working and moving for a moment the silence around was unendurable, and -seemed to seize hold of us. A distant roll of thunder came almost as a -relief. A step or two had to be cut, and the delay appeared -interminable.<a name="page_104" id="page_104"></a> Suddenly, a glimpse of a dark patch of rocks appeared -above looming through the mist. The slope of the ridge became more -gentle for a few yards. Our attention was all fixed above, and we -ascended some distance without noticing the change. Another short rise, -and we were walking quickly along the ridge. We stopped suddenly; the -rocks we had seen so recently, had sunk below us on our left, while in -front the <i>arête</i> could be followed with the eye, sloping away gradually -for a few yards, and then plunging sharply down to a great depth. It was -all over; through fair weather and through foul we had succeeded; and -there was yet another peak to the credit of the Alpine Club.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/i_105_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_105_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_105_sml.jpg" width="604" height="427" alt="A typical Caucasian landscape. - -To face p. 105. - -By Signor Vittorio Sella." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A typical Caucasian landscape.<br /> -To face p. 105. -<span style="margin-left: 10%;">By Signor Vittorio Sella.</span></span> -</p> - -<p>“It was not a time for words. Burgener turned to us and touched the snow -with his hand, and we sat down in silence. Almost on the instant as we -took our places a great burst of thunder rolled and echoed around—a -grim salvo of Nature’s artillery. The sudden sense of rest heightened -the effect of the oppressive stillness that followed. Never have I felt -the sense of isolation so complete. Gazing in front into the thin mists, -the very presence of my companions seemed an unreality. The veil of -wreathing vapour screened the huge panorama of the ice-world from our -sight. The black thunderclouds drifting sullenly shut out the world -below. No man knew where we were; we had reached our<a name="page_105" id="page_105"></a> furthest point -in a strange land. We were alone with Nature, far from home, and far -from all that we were familiar with. Strange emotions thrilled the frame -and quickened the pulse. Weird thoughts crowded through the mind—it was -not a time for words. Believe me, under such conditions a man will see -further across the threshold of the unknown than all the book-reading or -psychological speculation in the world will ever reveal to him.</p> - -<p>“Coming back to considerations more prosaic and practical, we found that -it was 1.15 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> We realised, too, that the ascent had been very -laborious and exhausting, while there was no doubt that evil times were -in store for us. There were no rocks at hand to build a cairn, but we -reflected that the snow was soft, and that our footsteps would easily be -seen on the morrow. The aneroid marked the height we had attained as -16,550 feet.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> A momentary break in the mist gave us a view of Dych -Tau, and we had just time to get a compass observation. After a stay of -fifteen minutes we rose and girded ourselves for the descent. I think we -all felt that the chief difficulty was yet to come, but we had little -idea of what was actually to follow. Directly after we had left the -summit a few puffs of wind<a name="page_106" id="page_106"></a> began to play around and some light snow -fell. Still, it was not very cold, and if the storm would only keep its -distance all might be well. Down the first slope we made our way rapidly -enough, and could have gone faster had we not deemed it wise to husband -our strength as much as possible. In an hour and twenty minutes we -reached the place where we had left the provisions and the camera. The -feast was spread, but did not find favour. Never did food look so -revolting. The bread seemed to have turned absolutely black, while the -steinbock meat looked unfit to keep company with garbage in a gutter; so -we packed it up again at once, more from a desire to hide it from our -eyes than from any idea that it might look more appetising later on. -Andenmatten’s headache had become much worse, and he could scarcely at -starting stand steady in his steps. Possibly his suffering was due to an -hour or two of intensely hot sun, which had struck straight down on us -during the ascent. I could not at the moment awaken much professional -interest in his case, but the symptoms, so far as I could judge, were -more like those experienced by people in diving-bells—were pressure -effects in short—for the pain was chiefly in the skull cavities. I may -not here enter into technical details, and can only remark now that -though Andenmatten suffered the most it by no means followed on that -account<a name="page_107" id="page_107"></a> that his head was emptier than anybody else’s. In due course we -came to the ice-slope up and across which we had cut our way so -laboriously in the morning; here, at least, we thought we should make -good progress with little trouble; but the sun had struck full on this -part of the mountain, and all the steps were flattened out and useless. -Every single step ought to have been worked at with as much labour as in -the morning, but it was impossible to do more than just scratch out a -slight foothold, as we made our way round again to the ridge. Below, on -the west side, the slope plunged down into the Ewigkeit, and our very -best attention had to be given in order to avoid doing the same. It was -one of the worst snow faces I ever found myself on, perhaps, under the -conditions, the worst. The direction in which we were travelling and the -angle of the slope made the rope utterly useless. Close attention is -very exhausting: much more exertion is required to walk ten steps, -bestowing the utmost possible care on each movement, than to walk a -hundred up or down a much steeper incline when the angle demands a more -accustomed balance. Not for an instant might we relax our vigilance -till, at 5.30 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, we reached once more the ridge close to the place -where we had forced our way through the cornice in the morning.</p> - -<p>“We had little time to spare, and hurrying up to<a name="page_108" id="page_108"></a> the point, looked -anxiously down the snow wall. A glance was sufficient to show that the -whole aspect of the snow had entirely altered since the morning. -Burgener’s expression changed suddenly, and a startled exclamation, -which I trust was allowed to pass unrecorded, escaped from him. -Andenmatten brought up some stones and rolled them down over the edge; -each missile carried down a broad hissing band of the encrusting snow -which had given us foot-hold in the morning, and swept the ice-slope -beneath as black and bare as a frozen pond; here and there near rocks -the stones stopped and sank deeply and gently into the soft, treacherous -compound. The light had begun to fail, and snow was falling more heavily -as we pressed on to try for some other line of descent. A hundred yards -further along the ridge we looked over again; the condition of the snow -was almost the same, but the wall was steeper, and looked at its very -worst as seen through the mist. Some one now suggested that we might -work to the north-west end of the ridge and make our way down to the -pass by the ice-fall. We tramped on as hard as possible, only to find at -the end of our journey that the whole mass seemed abruptly cut away far -above the Adine Col, and no line of descent whatever was visible. We -doubled back on our tracks till we came within a few yards of the summit -of a small peak on the<a name="page_109" id="page_109"></a> ridge, the height of which was probably not less -than 15,000 feet. Already the cold was numbing and our wet clothes began -to stiffen; again we peered over the wall, but the rocks were glazed, -snow-covered, and impossible. The leader stopped, looked right and left -along the ridge, and said, ‘I don’t know what to do!’ For the moment we -seemed hopelessly entrapped; the only conceivable place of shelter for -the night was a patch of rocks close to the summit of the peak near at -hand, and for these we made. It was an utter waste of time. Apart from -sleeping, we could not have remained there an hour, for we met the full -force of the wind, which by this time had risen considerably, and was -whirling the driving snow into every crack and cranny. What might have -begun as a temporary rest would infallibly have ended in a permanent -occupation. Indeed, the cold would have been far too intense that night -for us to have lived on any part of the bleak ridge. The situation was -becoming desperate. ‘We must get down off the ridge and out of the -wind.’ ‘Ay,’ said Burgener, ‘we must, I know; but where?’ The -circumstances did not call for reasonable answers, and so we said, -‘Anywhere! To stay up here now means that we shall never get down at -all.’ Burgener looked up quickly as if to say no, but hesitated, and -then muttered, ‘That is true. Then what will you do? There is<a name="page_110" id="page_110"></a> no way -down anywhere along the wall with the snow as it is now. There are great -ice-slopes a little way down.’ As he spoke he leant over and looked -along the wall for confirmation of his opinions. A little way off a rib -of rock, blacker than the rest, showed through the mist. We both saw it -at the same time; Burgener hesitated, looked at it again, and then -facing round glanced at the prospect above. The wind was stronger and -colder and the snow was driving more heavily. There was no room for -doubt. We must put it to the touch and take the risk. We turned again, -and in a few minutes had squeezed ourselves through the cornice, and -were fairly launched on the descent.</p> - -<p>“We were now at a much higher level on the ridge than at the point we -had struck in ascending. It was only possible to see a few yards down; -the rocks looked appallingly steep, glazed, and grizzly, and we knew not -what we were coming to. But at any rate we were moving, and in a stiller -atmosphere soon forgot the cold. We went fast, but only by means of -doing all we knew, for the climbing was really difficult. It was a case -of every man for himself, and every man for the rest of the party. Now -was the time to utilise all that we had ever learned of mountain craft. -Never before, speaking for myself only, have I felt so keenly the -pleasure of being united to thoroughly<a name="page_111" id="page_111"></a> trustworthy and good -mountaineers; it was like the rush of an eight-oar, where the sense of -motion and the swish through the water alone are sufficient to make -every member of the crew put all his strength into each stroke. The mind -was too active to appreciate the pain of fatigue, and so we seemed -strong again. Now on the rocks, which were loose and crumbly in parts, -elsewhere big and glazed, now in deep snow, now on hard crusts, we -fought our way down. So rapid was the descent that, when the opportunity -offered, we looked anxiously through the mist in the hope of seeing the -glacier beneath. Surely we had hit on a possible line of descent to the -very bottom. But there was not a moment for the grateful repose so often -engendered by enquiring minds on the mountains. We were racing against -time, or at least against the malevolent powers of darkness. Down a -narrow flat couloir of rock of no slight difficulty we seemed to go with -perfect ease, but the rocks suddenly ceased and gave way to an -ill-favoured snow-slope. The leader stopped abruptly and turned sharp to -the right. A smooth ice-gully some 30 feet wide separated us from the -next ridge of rock. The reason for the change of direction was evident -enough when Burgener pointed it out. As long as the line of descent kept -to the side that was more sheltered during the day from the sun,<a name="page_112" id="page_112"></a> so -long was the snow fairly good. Our leader judged quickly, and with the -soundest reasoning, as it proved directly afterwards, that the line we -had been following would infallibly lead, if pursued further, to snow as -treacherous as that with which we were now so familiar. Across the -ice-slope then we must cut, perhaps a dozen or fifteen steps.</p> - -<p>“The first two or three Burgener made vigorously enough, but when within -10 or 15 feet of the rocks the extra effort told. He faltered suddenly; -his blow fell listlessly, and he leant against the slope, resting hands -and head on his axe. ‘I am almost exhausted,’ he said faintly, as he -turned round to us, while his quivering hands and white lips bore -evidence to the severity of the exertion. So for a minute or two we -stood in our tracks. A word of encouragement called up what seemed -almost a last effort, some little notches were cut, and we gained the -rocks again. A trickling stream of water was coursing down a slab of -rock, and at this we gulped as eagerly as a fevered patient. Standing on -the projecting buttress, we looked anxiously down, and caught sight at -last of the glacier. It seemed close to us; the first few steps showed -that Burgener’s judgment was right; he had changed the line of descent -at exactly the right moment, and at the best possible place. Down the -last few hundred feet we were able to go as<a name="page_113" id="page_113"></a> fast as before. The level -glacier beneath seemed in the darkness to rise up suddenly and meet us. -We tumbled over the <i>bergschrund</i>, ran down a short slope on the farther -side of it, and stood in safety on the glacier, saved by as fine a piece -of guiding as I have ever seen in the mountains. We looked up at the -slope. To our astonishment all was clear, and I daresay had been so for -long. Above, in a blue-black frosty sky, the stars were winking merrily; -the mists had all vanished as by magic. No doubt the cold, which would -have settled us had we stayed on the ridge, assisted us materially in -the descent by improving the snow.</p> - -<p>“There seemed still just light enough to search for our tracks of the -morning across the glacier, and we bore well to the right in the hope of -crossing them. I fancy that the marks would have been really of little -use, but, anyhow, we could not find them, and so made a wide sweep -across the upper part of the snow basin. As a result we were soon in -difficulty with the crevasses, and often enough it seemed probable that -we should spend the rest of the night in wandering up and down searching -for snow bridges. But we reached at last a patch of shale and rock, -which we took to be the right bank of the little glacier we had crossed -in the morning. Our clothes were wet, and the cold was becoming so sharp -that it was wisely decided, against my advice, to push on if possible<a name="page_114" id="page_114"></a> -to the tent at once. For some three or four hours did we blunder and -stumble over the moraine, experiencing not a few tolerably severe falls -as we did so. Andenmatten selected his own line of descent, and in a few -minutes we had entirely lost sight of him. It was too dark to find our -way across the glacier, and we could only hope by following the loose -stone ridge to make our way to the right place. So we stuck to the -rocks, occasionally falling and nearly sticking on their detestably -sharp points. Even a Caucasian moraine leads somewhere if you keep to it -long enough, and as we turned a corner, the huge glimmering mass of Dych -Tau, towering up in front, showed that the end of our journey was not -far off. Presently the little white outline of the tent appeared, but we -regarded it with apathy, and made no effort to quicken our movements, -although the goal was in sight; it seemed to require, in our -semi-comatose condition, almost an effort to stop. As we threw open the -door of the tent the welcome sight of divers packets, neatly arranged in -a corner, met our gaze. The head policeman had proved himself an honour -to his sex, an exception to his compatriots, and a credit to the force. -There were bread, sugar, rice, meat, and firewood—yet we neither spoke -nor were moved. Andenmatten spurned the parcels with his foot and -revealed the lowermost. A scream of delight went up, for they had found -a packet of<a name="page_115" id="page_115"></a> tobacco. The spell was broken, and once more all were -radiant. Such is man. A strange compound—I refer to the tobacco—it -proved to be, that would neither light nor smoke, and possessed as its -sole property the power of violently disagreeing with the men. It was -past midnight before the expedition was over. There were few -preliminaries observed before going to bed. I don’t think that even -Donkin took more than a quarter of an hour in arranging a couch to his -satisfaction, and placing a very diminutive air-cushion on anatomical -principles in exactly the right place, while Andenmatten was fast asleep -in two minutes, his head pillowed gently on some cold mutton, and his -boots reposing under the small of his back. Something weighed on our -minds as we too lay down and tried to sleep. The towering cone of -Tetnuld, the distant view of Uschba, Elbruz, and the giant Dych Tau, the -rock and snow-slopes, pictured themselves one after another as -dissolving views on the white walls of the tent. The expedition was -over, but the pleasure and the impressions it had evoked were not. -Faster and faster followed the visions as in delirium. I sat up, and in -the excitement of the moment dealt a great blow at the nearest object, -which, as it chanced, was Andenmatten’s ribs. I shouted out to my -companion. A muffled ‘hulloa’ was the response, and he too rose up. -‘What is it?’ ‘By Heavens! it is the finest climb we have ever made.’ -And so it was.”<a name="page_116" id="page_116"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII<br /><br /> -<small>A MELANCHOLY QUEST</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE accident in the Caucasus in 1888, by which Messrs Donkin and Fox and -their two Swiss guides lost their lives, was one of the saddest that has -ever happened in the annals of mountaineering. I will not dwell on it, -but will rather pass on to the search expedition, a short account of -whose operations will serve to illustrate how a thorough knowledge of -mountaineering may be utilised in finding a conjectured spot in an -unmapped region in the snow world.</p> - -<p>The year after the accident—for the season when it occurred was too -advanced for a thorough search to be then undertaken—a party of four -Englishmen, Messrs Douglas Freshfield, Clinton Dent, Hermann Woolley, -and Captain Powell, with Maurer of the Bernese Oberland as leading -guide, set out from England to try and ascertain how the accident -happened, and, if possible, recover the remains. They succeeded, in the -course of a profoundly interesting journey, in finding the last camp of -their<a name="page_117" id="page_117"></a> friends, and from Mr Clinton Dent’s fine description in <i>The -Alpine Journal</i> I make, with his kind consent, the following extracts. -They show how well the old school of climbers learnt all the routine of -their art, and how superior is the trained mountaineer of any -nationality to the inexperienced dweller amongst mountains, who is -utterly unable to advance a single step upon them.</p> - -<p>Having journeyed to the district and got over all the easier ground at -first met with, the party was now fairly embarked in the region of ice -and snow.</p> - -<p>“The day was well advanced,” writes Mr Dent, “and it is only on rare -occasions in the Central Caucasus that the valleys and sky are free from -cloud at such an hour. But not a vestige of mist was to be seen. The -conditions were not merely of good omen, but were also in the hightest -degree fortunate, for the object of our search seemed very minute in the -presence of such gigantic surroundings. The air was clear and soft, and -the snow in perfect order for walking. We worked our way due west, and -gradually, as we turned the buttress of rock, a steep and broad -ice-gully came into view, leading up to the pass. This consisted of a -broad snow-topped depression, from 1500 to 1800 feet above the -snow-field. On the right or east of the pass the ridge ran sharply up to -the pinnacle already mentioned, while on the left the ridge, broken up<a name="page_118" id="page_118"></a> -on its crest by great towers of rock, stretched away to the summit of -Dych Tau, the peak of which from our point of view was not visible. A -careful inspection of the rocks with the telescope revealed nothing. A -possible place for a bivouac might have been found at any point on the -rocks below the pass, but no particularly likely spot was evident. It -was conceivable too, of course, that the travellers had discovered a -more suitable place on the Ullu Auz side, close to the summit of the -pass. In any case our plan of action was clear, and we set forth without -delay to ascend the wall. Two long ribs of rock lying on the right of -the ice-gully offered the best means of access. Both looked feasible, -but it was only after a moment’s hesitation that the left-hand one was -selected, as it seemed more broken, was broader, and ran up higher. If -the right-hand rib had been chosen, we might conceivably have missed the -object of our search altogether. We made our way up the rocks without -any great difficulty. Half-melted masses of snow constantly hissed down -the ice-gully as we ascended, and the great chasm that extends along the -base of the cliff was choked for the most part with avalanche snow. The -rocks were steep, but so broken as to offer good hand-and foot-hold. -Still, the mind was sufficiently occupied in attending to the details of -climbing to prevent the thoughts from wandering. Insensibly, we began<a name="page_119" id="page_119"></a> -to think little save of the view that would be revealed from the top of -the pass. From time to time an opportunity would be found of gazing to -the right or left, but progress was tolerably continuous. Maurer, who -was leading, looked upwards now and again, as he worked out the best -line of ascent, but the rocks were so steep that he could only see a -very few feet. Just about mid-day, as he stopped for a moment to look -upwards, I saw his expression suddenly change. ‘Herr Gott!’ he gasped -out, ‘der Schlafplatz!’<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> I think I shall never forget the thrill the -words sent through me. We sprang up, scrambling over the few feet that -still intervened, and in a moment were grouped on a little ledge just -outside the bivouac. There was little enough to be seen at the first -glance save a low horse-shoe shaped wall of stones, measuring some 6 -feet by 8, and carefully built against an overhanging rock. The -enclosure was full of drifted snow, raised up into a hump at the back, -where it covered a large rücksack. On a ledge formed by one of the -stones, a little tin snow spectacle-box caught the eye as it reflected -the rays of the sun. For a few moments all was excitement as the -presence of one object after another was revealed. ‘See here,’ cried -Maurer, as he scooped away the snow with his hands, ‘the sleeping-bags!’ -‘And here a rücksack,’ said<a name="page_120" id="page_120"></a> another. ‘Look, they made a fire there,’ -called out a third, ‘and here is the cooking kettle and the revolver.’ -Then came somewhat of a reaction, and for a few minutes we could but -gaze silently at the place that told so clear a tale, and endeavour to -realise to the full the evidence that had come upon us with such -overwhelming suddenness.</p> - -<p class="cb">. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . .</p> - -<p>“It is most probable that the accident occurred on the south side of the -cliffs forming the eastern ridge of Dych Tau. The party must have been -roped at the moment, and it is very reasonable to suppose that they were -engaged in traversing one of the many ice and snow covered slopes that -exist on this side. What the exact nature of the accident was matters -little; but it may be remembered that the snow on such slopes and ledges -often binds very lightly, and that there are no mountains, perhaps, -where these places are more numerous or more treacherous than in the -Caucasus. It was possibly one of those rare instances in which the rope -was a source of danger and not of security to the party as a whole. Yet -the rule is clear, and it amounts to this: if a place is too dangerous -to cross with a party roped, lest the slip of one drag down all, then it -is too dangerous to cross at all. So steep are the cliffs that a fall -must have meant instantaneous death. As an example, a torn sleeping-bag<a name="page_121" id="page_121"></a> -which was thrown over the bivouac wall fell to the very bottom of the -slope, and we saw it just above the <i>bergschrund</i> as we descended. It -was necessary to take down some of the articles discovered, for we might -otherwise have found difficulty in convincing the natives of the success -of the expedition, and this was an important point. The height of the -pass is 14,350 feet, and of the bivouac about 14,000 feet. We left the -bivouac at 3.30 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, the day being still perfectly cloudless. The -ice-fall offered some little difficulty, one or two of the bridges by -which we had crossed in the morning having broken down. Still we were -able to keep to almost the same line as that adopted in ascending.</p> - -<p class="cb">. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . .</p> - -<p>“No one familiar with the Caucasus would be willing to believe that any -native could have reached the bivouac. The people are still very -timorous on ice, and are wholly incapable of facing an ice-fall, much -less of making any way through one. No native could have been got to the -place even if in the train of competent mountaineers; alone, he would -not have set foot on the glacier at all.</p> - -<p>“A day or two later we made our way down to the collection of villages -known as Balkar, a good three and a half hours’ walk from Karaoul. The -place is not well spoken of, but we were hospitably received and -entertained. In this, as in many other villages<a name="page_122" id="page_122"></a> subsequently, the story -of our search excited much interest. On every occasion the proceedings -were almost exactly identical. As usual in the Caucasus, the natives all -crowded into our apartment soon after arrival. Powell would then select -some Russian-speaking man in authority, and announce through him that -the results of our expedition would be made known to all who cared to -hear them. The whole story was then told, and admirably Powell used to -narrate it, winding up by pointing out how the people of the district -were now exonerated from any suspicion that may have lain on them. Such -suspicion, he used to add, had never been entertained by any English -people. The account was always listened to in breathless silence. At the -conclusion it was repeated by the chief to the natives in their own -language. Then the rücksack was brought in and the articles found shown. -These were always instantly accepted as absolute proof; the rusty -revolver especially excited attention. Expressions of sorrow and brief -interjections were always heard on all sides. Then the chief spoke to -some such effect as follows: ‘We are indeed rejoiced that you have found -these traces. It relieves our people from an irksome and unjust -suspicion. It is well that Englishmen came to our country for this -search, for we believe that no others could have accomplished what you -have done. We<a name="page_123" id="page_123"></a> are all very grateful to you. Englishmen are always most -welcome in our country. We are glad to receive them. Our houses are -theirs, and the best we can do shall always be done for your -countrymen.’ In several places—at Chegem, for instance—words were -added to this effect: ‘We remember well Donkin and Fox; they were brave -and good men, and we loved them. It is very sad to us to think that they -are lost.’”</p> - -<p>A more detailed account of this melancholy quest will be found in Messrs -Douglas Freshfield’s and Vittorio Sella’s work, <i>The Exploration of the -Caucasus</i>. It is from this, the most beautifully illustrated of any book -on mountaineering, that, with Mr Freshfield’s kind permission and that -of Mr Willink, I take the picture of the sleeping-place. The finished -drawing was made by Mr Willink from a sketch by Captain Powell.<a name="page_124" id="page_124"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII<br /><br /> -<small>SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND FATAL ACCIDENTS</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">P</span>ROBABLY not half the narrow escapes experienced by climbers are ever -described, even in the pages of the various publications of English and -foreign Alpine Clubs, though when an accident by the breaking of a -snow-cornice is just avoided, the incident is so terribly impressive -that several accounts have found their way into print. Scarcely anything -more startling than a certain occurrence on a ridge of the Mönch, which -happened to the late Mr Moore and his two guides, Melchior and Jacob -Anderegg, has ever been related. The party had succeeded in making the -ascent of the Mönch from the Wengern Alp, it being only the third -occasion when this long and difficult climb was accomplished, each of -their predecessors spending <i>three days and three nights</i> on the -expedition.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/i_159a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_159a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_159a_sml.jpg" width="177" height="257" alt="Melchior Anderegg, of Meiringen." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Melchior Anderegg, of Meiringen.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/i_159b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_159b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_159b_sml.jpg" width="438" height="324" alt="A son and a grandchild of Melchior Anderegg, 1903. - -To face p. 124." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A son and a grandchild of Melchior Anderegg, 1903. -<br />To face p. 124.</span> -</p> - -<p>Having gained the summit, the party proceeded to go down by the usual -route towards the Trugberg. This follows a very narrow <i>arête</i>. “On the -left hand,” says Mr Moore in <i>The Alpine Journal</i>, “is an absolute<a name="page_125" id="page_125"></a> -precipice; on the right a slope, which might be called precipitous, -falls to the Aletsch Glacier. The quantity of snow on the ridge was -enormous, and the sun had begun to tell upon it. We knew too much to -attempt to approach the upper edge, and kept at a distance of some 12 -feet below it on the Aletsch side; lower down we dared not go, owing to -the steepness of the slope and the danger of starting an avalanche. With -Melchior in front it is unnecessary to say that we moved with the -greatest caution. No man is more alive than he to the danger arising -from a snow-cornice. He sounded with his axe at every step, and we went -steadily along, anxious, but with every reason to believe that we were -giving the cornice a wide berth. Suddenly came a startling cry from -Melchior. At the same instant I felt myself stagger, and, instinctively -swinging ever so slightly to the right, found myself the next moment -sitting astride on the ridge. With a thundering roar the cornice on our -left for a distance of some 200 yards went crashing down to the depths -below, sending up clouds of snow-dust which completely concealed my -companions from me. It was only by the absence of all strain on the rope -that I knew—though at the moment I scarcely realised the fact—that -they were, like myself, safe. As the dust cleared off, Melchior, also -sitting astride of the ridge, turned towards me, his face white as the -snow which covered us. That<a name="page_126" id="page_126"></a> it was no personal fear which had blanched -our leader’s sunburnt cheeks his first words, when he could find -utterance, showed. ‘God be thanked!’ said he; ‘I never thought to see -either of you there.’ We had, in fact, escaped destruction by a -hand’s-breadth. As I believe, our right feet had been on the ridge, our -left on the cornice; we had thus just sufficient firm standing-ground to -enable us to make that instinctive movement to the right which had -landed us <i>á cheval</i>, for Jacob had fallen in the same position as -Melchior and myself. Few words were said; but words poorly express the -emotions at such a moment. Melchior’s axe had been carried down with the -cornice as it fell, but had fortunately lodged on the face of the -precipice 50 feet below. It was too precious to leave behind, so we let -him down by the rope, and descending in a cat-like way peculiar to -first-class guides when not hampered by <i>Herrshaft</i>, he regained it -without difficulty.</p> - -<p>“Our further descent was uneventful.”</p> - -<p>One of the greatest dangers of mountaineering is from falling stones, -yet the number of fatal accidents from this cause is as few as the -narrow escapes are many. As exciting an experience as can well be -imagined took place on the Aiguille du Midi at Chamonix in 1871. The -party consisted of Messrs Horace Walker and G. E. Foster. The latter -wrote a graphic account in <i>The Alpine Journal</i>, and kindly<a name="page_127" id="page_127"></a> allows me -to make the following extracts. The guides were Jacob Anderegg and Hans -Baumann, and the climbers wished to ascend from the Montanvert and be -the first to go down the steep face of the mountain on the Chamonix -side.</p> - -<p>After some difficulty in finding the route, for both the guides were -unacquainted with the district, and Mr Walker alone knew in a vague sort -of way that the peak was somewhere in the neighbourhood of the Géant -ice-fall, they eventually stood on the top. It had taken them ten hours, -and they sat for some time on the more sheltered Chamonix side, debating -by what route they should descend. The slopes below were very steep, so -they decided to retrace their steps to the foot of the rocks, and then, -turning over on to the Chamonix side of the mountain, make their way as -best they could down ice-filled gullies and precipitous rocks. All at -first went well, and soon they commenced to cross the face of the cliff -to gain a rocky buttress that offered a likely route some hundred feet -below the top of the wall. “Jacob was leading,” writes Mr Foster, -“Walker next, I followed, and Baumann brought up the rear. Only one was -moving at a time, and every one had the rope as taut as possible between -himself and his neighbour. Jacob was crossing a narrow gully, when -suddenly, without any warning, as though he had trod on the keystone of -the wall,<a name="page_128" id="page_128"></a> the whole face for some 30 or 40 feet above him peeled off, -and with a crash like thunder, hundreds of tons of rocks precipitated -themselves on him. In an instant he was torn from his hold, and hurled -down the precipice with them. Fortunately, Walker was able to hold on, -though the strain on him was something awful. As the uproar ceased, and -silence even more impressive succeeded, we looked in one another’s faces -with blank dismay. From our position it was impossible to see what had -become of Jacob, and only the tight rope told us that his body at least, -living or dead, was still fastened to us. In a voice singularly unlike -his own, Walker at length cried out, ‘Jacob,’ and our hearts sank within -us as it passed without response. ‘Jacob! Ach Jacob!’ Walker repeated; -and I trust none of my readers may ever know the relief we felt when the -reply came back, ‘Ich lebe noch.’<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> - -<p>“From where I was I could not see him, but Walker craned over a rock, -and then turned round. ‘I see him. He is awfully hurt, and bleeding -frightfully.’ I then contrived to shift my position, and saw that he was -indeed hurt. His face was black with blood and dirt, the skin torn from -his bleeding hands, while his clothes in ribands threatened worse -injuries still unseen. After a moment, he managed to recover his -footing, and then untied the rope with trembling<a name="page_129" id="page_129"></a> fingers, and crawled -along the face of the cliff to the other side of the gully, where some -snow offered means to stanch his wounds.</p> - -<p>“As soon as he was safe, Baumann called on us to stand still, and -clambered carefully over the spot where the rocks had given way, our -only road lying there. I followed, and then Walker, knotting up the rope -to which Jacob had hung, crossed last. With Jacob below us, care was -necessary in climbing so as to send no more loose fragments on his head, -but we at last reached the spot where he was standing. Thanks to the -snow, the bleeding had already stopped to a great extent, and with the -aid of some sticking-plaster Walker had with him, and some torn strips -from a pocket-handkerchief, we bound up his wounds as well as we could. -He had had a marvellous escape; no fragment had struck him fully, the -rock that had grazed his face having missed knocking out his brains from -his presence of mind in throwing back his head. Fortunately, no bones -were broken, though he was badly bruised all over, and after a quarter -of an hour’s rest and a good pull at the brandy-flask, he said he was -ready to start again.</p> - -<p>“On taking hold of the rope to tie him on again, we were awestruck to -find all its strands but one had been severed, so that his whole weight -had hung literally on a thread. Strange as it may appear, the<a name="page_130" id="page_130"></a> rock that -had done this had probably saved his life by jerking him out of the line -of fire. Still, all honour to Messrs Buckingham for their good -workmanship, to which, and Walker’s holding powers, we owe our escape -from a miserable ending of our day’s work. As it was, poor Walker’s ribs -had suffered sadly, and with two wounded men we recommenced our descent.</p> - -<p>“Naturally, our trust in the rocks was gone, and we took as soon as -possible to the steep snow of the couloir. This, however, lay so thin on -the ice, that we found we had only exchanged one danger for another. -Baumann led and we followed, driving in our axe-heads at every step, but -were soon forced to descend into a narrow gully, cut by avalanches, -where the snow was deep enough to give better footing. The sides of this -were above our heads, and the bottom not more than a foot wide, so that -the danger from avalanches was very great, but for a time we descended -safely. Then a startled shout from Walker warned me that something was -wrong, and driving my axe desperately into the side, I found myself up -to the neck in a snow avalanche. For a moment I thought all was up, but -held on to the best of my powers. Then finding the stream did not stop, -I looked back, and found Walker and Jacob had contrived to get out of -the gully. With a shout to Baumann, I gave a desperate struggle, and -followed<a name="page_131" id="page_131"></a> their example, and instantly saw the snow I had held up surge -over Baumann’s head. For a moment he held on, then climbed out on my -side. We waited till the avalanche had passed, two of us on one side of -the gully and two on the other, and then Walker and Jacob jumped into it -with a groan, as it shook their bruised bones, and climbed up to our -side, and with an occasional look for Baumann’s hat, which the avalanche -had carried off with it, pursued our way.</p> - -<p>“So long and steep was the couloir, so thin and treacherous the snow -layer on the ice, that a good hour elapsed before we reached the bottom, -where a formidable <i>bergschrund</i> cut off access to the glacier. Only at -one point could we find a bridge, and that was where our old enemy, the -avalanche gully, terminated, choking the crevasse with its snows, and -spreading in a fan-like mass below. With some hesitation, as our -recollection of it was not pleasant, and it was here all hard ice, -Baumann cut his way down into it. We were scarcely all fairly in it, -when we heard a tremendous crash above. Clearly, another avalanche was -descending, this time composed of rocks. As it was 2000 feet above us, -and would take some time to clear the distance, a short race for life -ensued. Baumann cut steps with amazing rapidity. Fortunately, some half -dozen only were necessary. With one eye on<a name="page_132" id="page_132"></a> him and one keeping a sharp -look-out for the advent of the unwelcome stranger, we hastened down, -crossed the bridge, scampered down a slope, and merely stooping down to -pick up Baumann’s hat, which turned up here, got out of the way just in -time, as an enormous mass of snow and rocks dashed over where we had -stood not a minute before.”</p> - -<p>This was the last adventure the party had that day from avalanches, but -their troubles were as yet by no means over. Some formidable glacier -work had to be accomplished before all was plain sailing. “Though we -were now tolerably reckless, the difficulties in our way nearly beat -us,” Mr Foster goes on to say. “Three times we tried, and thrice in -vain, though knife edges of the most revolting description were passed, -and crevasses of fabulous width and depth jumped or got over as seemed -best. Again and again we were forced to return. At length, when we were -almost in despair, a way was found, and at 6.30, drenched by the storm -which by this time had burst upon us, we reached the little hotel at the -Pierrepointue.”</p> - -<p>There are no climbing dangers which skill and care can more surely avert -than those which are ever present on a crevassed, but snow-covered -glacier.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_170a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_170a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_170a_sml.jpg" width="325" height="215" alt="Crevasses and Séracs on the lower part of a glacier." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Crevasses and Séracs on the lower part of a glacier.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_170c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_170c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_170c_sml.jpg" width="325" height="225" alt="On the border of a crevasse above the snow line." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">On the border of a crevasse above the snow line.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_170b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_170b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_170b_sml.jpg" width="318" height="218" alt="A snow bridge over a crevasse." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A snow bridge over a crevasse.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_170d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_170d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_170d_sml.jpg" width="334" height="233" alt="Soft snow in the afternoon on a glacier. - -By Signor R. Cajrati Crivelli Mesmer. - -To face p. 133." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Soft snow in the afternoon on a glacier. - -By Signor R. Cajrati Crivelli Mesmer. - -To face p. 133.</span> -</p> - -<p>Should a party fail to arrest the fall of one of its members, and have -difficulty in pulling him<a name="page_133" id="page_133"></a> above ground, however, the position may -become most serious. If another party is within hail, matters are -generally simple enough, yet even for four or five people it is not -always the easiest thing in the world to haul up a companion who has -disappeared into the bowels of the earth, especially if the folly of -walking unroped has been indulged in.</p> - -<p>A good description of what might have been a serious business but for -the skill and resource of a member of the party is given in the course -of a description of some climbs in the Rocky Mountains. The writer, Mr -Harold B. Dixon, says in <i>The Alpine Journal</i>: “A snow-covered crevasse -crossed our route at right angles. The party in front, who were without -ropes, saw the crevasse, and proceeded to leap it. All crossed in safety -but the last man, who broke through the snow and disappeared. Through -the hole the wide mouth of the crevasse was revealed, showing the danger -of trusting to the frail bridge. It was obviously dangerous to recross -without a rope, so his companions signalled to us for help, but for some -time we failed to observe their signals.</p> - -<p>“Though stunned by the fall our friend was not materially damaged, but -he was in a sufficiently awkward fix. Jammed between the narrowing walls -of ice, he was unable to move a limb except his right arm. The crevasse -did not drop perpendicularly,<a name="page_134" id="page_134"></a> but the ice-wall bulged out from the side -we stood on, and then curved over out of sight; we could not see down -more than 18 feet. We stood in a little semicircle at the hole, and one -short sentence was spoken: ‘Some one must go down.’ We looked at each -other. Sahrbach and Baker are large and heavy men: it was obvious they -must ‘pass.’ I am of lighter build; I proclaimed my 11 stone and -readiness to go. But Collie went better. ‘I am 9 stone 6,’ was his -deliberate statement. There was no means of seeing if this was a bluff, -so we threw up our hands—the trick was his. Tying a stirrup loop for -one foot and a noose round his waist, Collie attached himself to one -rope, which was then joined to a second. Meanwhile the Americans were -brought across the crevasse by the aid of another rope, and axes were -fixed deep in the snow in suitable positions to fasten the rope to. Then -we let Collie down as far as he would go. An anxious moment followed. ‘I -can’t reach him,’ came Collie’s voice from below. Then, after a few -minutes, ‘Send down a slip knot on the other rope.’ We made the knot and -lowered the rope. How Collie managed it I don’t know, for he could not -reach his man, but he threw the loop round the prisoner’s right arm, and -then called on us to pull. At the second haul we felt something give, -and our friend was pulled into an upright position, when<a name="page_135" id="page_135"></a> Collie could -just reach him with his left hand, and with this he tied a knot above -the elbow of his right arm. By this knot we hauled him out of the narrow -crevasse and on to the bulge of ice without difficulty. But as we pulled -the rope cut into the snow, and we could not raise our burden within 6 -feet of the surface. Then, while the rope was held taut, one of us -worked the handle of an axe along under the rope by sitting on the snow -and pushing it forward with his feet. In this way the rope was loosened, -and we could haul up another 3 feet, and then Sahrbach, leaning over, -reached his collar, and our half-frozen friend was deposited on the snow -with an assortment of flasks, while we fished out Collie from his -uncomfortable position. They were both very wet and cold, but no bones -were broken.”</p> - -<p>Here we see that even with a large party of competent people, it was no -easy matter to rescue a comrade from his icy prison. The details are -well given, and may be useful to any one so unfortunate as to require by -personal experience a knowledge of what should be done under similar -circumstances.</p> - -<p>The danger of crossing snow-covered glaciers when the party does not -number more than two was brought home to those who heard of it by one of -the most tragical events which has ever been recorded in the annals of -mountaineering. A<a name="page_136" id="page_136"></a> German, Dr Schäffer, had been celebrating his golden -wedding at a small place on the Brenner on 22nd August 1900. He engaged -a guide, by name Johann Offerer, and, sleeping at a hut, started early -next morning. They reached the Wildlahner Glacier in an hour and a half -from their sleeping quarters, and after traversing it for some distance -came to a large crevasse. This the guide crossed safely on a snow -bridge, but the tourist, a much heavier man, broke through, and pulled -his companion down with him. They fell about 100 feet, with the result -that the guide had a broken thigh and arm, while Dr Schäffer only -bruised his knee. He put his coat round Offerer and left food beside -him, and then tried to get out of the crevasse. After hours of toil and -pain he managed to reach a ledge not very far below the mouth of the -crevasse, but further he could not get. At last he gave up all hope, and -sat down to die, first, however, writing a full account of the accident, -and leaving a sum of money for the widow of his guide. It is to this -pathetic last effort of his life that we owe our knowledge of what -happened. The only other instance at all like it is the terrible -accident on Mont Blanc in 1870, when eleven persons perished in a -snow-storm, one of their number, Mr Bean, leaving details in his diary -of the events immediately preceding the catastrophe.<a name="page_137" id="page_137"></a></p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_176a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_176a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_176a_sml.jpg" width="331" height="237" alt="The Betémps Hut." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Betémps Hut.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_176b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_176b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_176b_sml.jpg" width="328" height="249" alt="Ski-ing." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Ski-ing.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_176c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_176c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_176c_sml.jpg" width="320" height="227" alt="How a beginner usually ends a run." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">How a beginner usually ends a run.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_176d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_176d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_176d_sml.jpg" width="325" height="220" alt="A great crevasse in the upper snow fields. - -To face p. 137." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A great crevasse in the upper snow fields. -<br /> -To face p. 137.</span> -</p> - -<p>It was only on 5th September, after a long search, that the remains of -the two unfortunate men were discovered.</p> - -<p>The following is of special interest, because, of late years, the -Norwegian sport of ski-ing has become exceedingly popular in Alpine -winter resorts. It is impossible, however, owing to the great length of -the ski, to go in difficult places on them, and therefore mountaineers -have only used them when intending to ascend to points accessible -entirely over snow-slopes, not much broken up by crevasses. The first -fatal accident to a climbing party on ski took place in 1902, and may -serve as a warning to those intending to traverse glaciers in winter on -skis, or indeed even without them. I take my account from a translation -from the Italian, which appeared in <i>The Alpine Journal</i>. The comments -by the editor should be laid to heart.</p> - -<p>“A party of five gentlemen and four Zermatt guides left Zermatt on 24th -February for the Bétemp Hut, with the intention of ascending the -Signalkuppe and the Zumstein, <i>via</i> the Grenz Glacier and the Capanna -Margherita.</p> - -<p>“The 25th was spent in ski practice in the neighbourhood of the hut. On -the 26th the whole party, with the exception of one guide who had -brought a defective pair of skis, left the hut at 3.30 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> in weather -marked by no adverse conditions of any kind. The Grenz Glacier was -reached somewhat<a name="page_138" id="page_138"></a> west of the point marked 3344 mètres on the Siegfried -map. The party unroped, proceeded upwards on their skis towards the -point marked 3496 mètres, the surface of the glacier, covered with deep -snow, showing no crevasses nor the indications of any. About midway -between 3300 mètres and the point 3344 mètres the caravan found itself -on a gentle slope, when a muffled crack was heard, and Herr Koenig, Herr -Flender, and one of the guides, Hermann Perren, were seen to sink almost -simultaneously into a concealed crevasse about 6 feet in width, which -ran in a direction parallel with the glacier, carrying with them a mass -of snow about 65 feet in length and over 14 feet in thickness. -Obviously, no amount of probing would have indicated the presence of the -crevasse, and thus by an unfortunate coincidence the three men were -standing at the same time over the hidden abyss without knowing it. One -of the other guides was instantly lowered into the crevasse by the only -available rope (the other being on Herr Flender’s back), which proved to -be just too short to reach Hermann Perren, who had fallen about 90 feet, -and was standing upright against the side of the crevasse, held fast in -a mass of snow which had left his head and one arm free. Two of the -party hurried down to fetch another rope from the Bétemps Hut. In the -meanwhile Perren had managed, after a struggle of two and a half hours, -almost to set himself<a name="page_139" id="page_139"></a> free, and was eventually drawn out safely, -practically uninjured, save a slightly frost-bitten hand. The dead body -of Herr Flender, found with his neck broken, partially covered with some -2 feet of hard snow, was then extricated, but in spite of persistent -efforts the body of Herr Koenig was not recovered until the next day, -when he was found lying face downwards under a mass of compact snow over -10 feet thick. Death in his case was instantaneous, caused by -suffocation, the body bearing no signs whatever of external injury. Herr -Koenig was laid to rest in the English cemetery at Zermatt, while the -body of Herr Flender was conveyed by his relatives to its last -resting-place at Düsseldorf. This is, we think, the first fatal accident -which has occurred to a party of climbers on skis bound on a serious -climbing expedition. The party on this occasion cannot with justice be -accused of recklessness, for the apparent neglect of the usual -precaution of putting on the rope on a snow-covered glacier will not be -misunderstood by those accustomed to the use of skis, who will readily -understand that the rope is practically impossible, and even dangerous, -for a party on skis.</p> - -<p>“A remarkable feature of the accident was the thickness of the mass of -snow which gave way under the three men, and demonstrates the extreme -insecurity of winter snow on a crevassed glacier. It<a name="page_140" id="page_140"></a> is possible that -the three men were perhaps too close to each other at the time of the -accident.</p> - -<p>“It is evident that winter climbers who wish to use skis must carry -their lives in their own hands, and perhaps the safer plan for future -expeditions of this kind will be to make the ascent roped in the usual -way on snow <i>racquettes</i> carrying the skis on the back. On the descent -the risk of breaking through the snow covering during the rapid progress -on skis would of course be very much less than on the ascent.”</p> - -<p>One of the most fruitful causes of accidents on mountains is the -underrating of difficulties by ignorant persons who, having been hauled -up and let down precipices by a couple of sturdy guides in fine weather, -proceed to inform their friends and acquaintances that “Nowadays the -Matterhorn is mere child’s play, don’t cher know.”</p> - -<p>A sorry tale is told by the famous climber, Mr Cecil Slingsby, who, -himself accustomed to undertake the hardest climbs without guides, would -be the first to discourage imitation in any unfit to follow in his -steps.</p> - -<p>Writing of Skagastöldstind, in Norway, of which he made the first -ascent, and which is still considered the most difficult of the -fashionable climbs in that country, he says in <i>The Alpine Journal</i>:</p> - -<p>“In 1880 a young tourist, son of a rich banker,<a name="page_141" id="page_141"></a> whom I will call Nils, -desirous of emulating our exploits, attempted the mountain, and with the -assistance of two good climbers, who shoved and hauled him up the rocks, -succeeded in reaching the summit. Unfortunately, he afterwards wrote a -pamphlet of sixty-six pages about the mountain, in which he underrated -its difficulties. This pamphlet, I unhesitatingly assert, has been the -main cause of a terrible tragedy which took place on Skagastöldstind. It -was in this manner. At one of the series of huts built by the tourist -club a young man, named Tönsberg, who had been partially deranged, was -staying with his wife, and was deriving much benefit from the mountain -air. Here he read this pamphlet, and inferred that though -Skagastöldstind was undoubtedly a very fine mountain, yet the -difficulties of its ascent had been much exaggerated, and that any one -might make it. Upon this he set off with a lad seventeen years of age, -at 9.30 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, in vile weather; walked through the night (in the middle -of summer it is never dark), and reached a saetor (or châlet) at 3 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>; -here they found Peter, one of Nils’ guides, who refused to have anything -more to do with the mountain. At last, by means of bribes, and by -promising to turn back at once if the mountain should prove -impracticable, Peter was persuaded to go forward; and at 6 o’clock they -sallied out into the wet. Wind and snow soon<a name="page_142" id="page_142"></a> assailed them, but -Tönsberg would persist in his rash work. At 11 they reached the actual -base of the peak, 4100 feet below the top. The lad was frost-bitten and -could go no further; neither could Peter. They tried to tie the man with -ropes, but he was too strong for them, and used his alpenstock against -them, and it was no good. Soon afterwards he left them in the mist, and -in twenty strides was out of sight. A month or five weeks after this his -remains were found in a deep chasm between a glacier and the rocks, -amidst crags at least 2000 feet higher up on the mountain. I may add -that the valley Midt Maradal, out of which Skagastöldstind rises, is so -difficult to approach, that though it contains rich pasturage at its -lower end—a mine of wealth in Norway—its owner, a man of forty-five -years, who has overlooked it hundreds of times and lives within three -miles of it as the crow flies, had never been in it when I saw him last, -and has asked me several times to guide him into it.”</p> - -<p>Referring to an expedition from Mouvoison, which began, as do most -climbs, over grass slopes, Mr Clinton Dent remarks in <i>Above the Snow -Line</i>:</p> - -<p>“One ascent over a grass slope is very much like another, and -description in detail would be as wearisome as the slopes themselves -often prove. Yet it is worthy of notice that there is an art to be -acquired even in climbing grass slopes. We<a name="page_143" id="page_143"></a> had more than one -opportunity on the present occasion of seeing that persons look -supremely ridiculous if they stumble about, and we noticed also that, -like a bowler when he has delivered a long hop to the off for the third -time in one over, the stumbler invariably inspects the nails in his -boots, a proceeding which deceives no one. It is quite easy to judge of -a man’s real mountaineering capacity by the way in which he attacks a -steep grass slope. The unskilful person, who fancies himself perfectly -at home among the intricacies of an ice-fall, will often candidly admit -that he never can walk with well-balanced equilibrium on grass, a form -of vegetable which it might be thought in many instances of -self-sufficient mountaineers, would naturally suit them. There is often -real danger in such places, and not infrequently the wise man will -demand the use of the rope, especially when there are any tired members -among the party. There is no better way of learning how to preserve a -proper balance on a slope than by practising on declivities of moderate -steepness, and it is astonishing to find how often those who think they -have little to learn, or, still worse, that there is nothing to learn, -will find themselves in difficulties on a mountain-side, and forced to -realise that they have got themselves into a rather humiliating -position. We may<a name="page_144" id="page_144"></a> have seen, before now, all of us, distinguished -cragsmen to whom an ascent of the Weisshorn or Matterhorn was but a mere -stroll, utterly pounded in botanical expeditions after Edelweiss, and -compelled to regain a position of security by very ungraceful sprawls, -or, worse still, have to resort to the unpardonable alternative of -asking for assistance.”</p> - -<p>The following accounts of adventures on grass slopes, taken from <i>The -Alpine Journal</i>, may serve to bear out the truth of Mr Dent’s remarks:</p> - -<p>“On Monday, 31st August, Mr J. F. C. Devas, aged 26, accompanied by a -friend, Mr A. G. Ferard, proceeded after lunch to take a stroll from the -Riffel-Haus towards the Gorner Glacier by the Théodule path. Before -reaching the glacier they returned, Mr Ferard by the ordinary route. Mr -Devas, leaving the path to the left, attempted a short cut by climbing -some wet and slippery rocks leading to a grass slope above. He reached a -difficult place, immediately below the slope, beyond which he was unable -to go. Mr Ferard made his way as speedily as possible to the grass slope -and to within a few yards of his friend. While Mr Ferard was -endeavouring to render assistance, Mr Devas, in trying to pull himself -up, lost his footing and slid down about 70 feet to a ledge covered with -turf, which it might have been<a name="page_145" id="page_145"></a> hoped would have arrested his fall. -Unfortunately, the impetus was sufficient to carry him over the ledge to -a further distance of about 70 feet below. His friend hastened to the -Riffel-Haus for assistance, and a number of guides and porters, -accompanied by Mr Ferard and a French gentleman, hurried to the scene of -the accident. Mr Devas, who had sustained a severe fracture of the -skull, was brought back to the Riffel-Haus about 5 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, where he -received the most unremitting care from M. Seiler’s staff of servants. -He was unconscious from the moment of the accident till he died at noon -of the following day.”</p> - -<p>Another writer gives an account of an adventure on a grass slope which, -happily, had a less serious ending. He also attempted to make a short -cut.</p> - -<p>“I entangled myself in an adventure which, as nearly as possible, ended -in a catastrophe. Not caring to turn back, I followed a track past the -châlets of Cavrera, in hope of being able to find a direct ascent over -the steep lower ground that enclosed the head of the valley. It seemed -as I advanced that among the ledges of rock and grass at the left-hand -corner there would be access to the path above. A dubious and attenuated -track which led me up in this direction after giving evidence of design -in a few steps notched in the great gneiss slabs, vanished, leaving me -to choose between the<a name="page_146" id="page_146"></a> slabs which sloped up in front and a line of -juniper bushes on the left of them. As the slabs at this spot could be -walked upon, and higher up seemed to ease off again, I kept to the rocks -without investigating the juniper belt. But walking exchanged itself for -climbing, and I continued to ascend under the impression that I should -shortly gain the inclination above. I came to a spot where I had to -raise myself on to a small rounded knob of rock with a slight effort, -there being no hand-hold above. From this vantage-ground I was able to -repeat the process, still buoyed up with the belief that the easy part -would be reached above, and to hoist myself on to the only remaining -hold in the neighbourhood—a strong tuft of grass in a sort of half -corner in the slabs—which supported one foot well, but one foot only. I -now found I could go no further. The strata inclined downwards, so that -the smooth and crackless slabs overlay one another like the slates on a -house-roof, and there was no more hold for hand or foot apparent, while -the slabs were far too steep for unsupported progression. The next -discovery was a much more alarming one; I looked below, wondered why on -earth I had come up such a place, and saw at a glance that I could not -get down again. If I fell, moreover, it would not be by the line of my -ascent, but down steeper rocks and to a lower depth. Generally in a -dilemma<a name="page_147" id="page_147"></a> in climbing there is a sort of instinctive feeling that an -escape will be made at last, but now, for the first time, I was seized -with a sentiment akin to despair. One chance only remained, and that was -to take off my boots and stockings and try the slabs above.</p> - -<p>“The stories of extraordinary predicaments in the Alps one is apt to -receive with some incredulity. I never altogether accepted the tale of -the chamois-hunter’s gashing his feet, and, needless to say, it did not -occur to me to imitate him in this particular. For the rest, I can only -promise the literal narration of circumstances <i>as they presented -themselves to me at the time</i>. It is, indeed, sufficiently sensational -without exaggeration. Well, it appeared at first impossible to take my -boots off; I was facing the rocks with one toe on the turf, and the -necessary manipulation could not be accomplished. What was to be done? -This was, perhaps, the worst moment of the whole, as far as sensation -went. However, by turning round, and planting my heel on the tuft and my -back on the rock, I found myself in a secure and tolerably comfortable -position. I now set to work and slung my boots separately round my neck -as I took them off, pocketing the socks. All was done with deliberation; -the laces were as usual untied with the button-hook in my cherished -knife, and the latter was carefully returned to my pocket with the -thought that if it went down it should be<a name="page_148" id="page_148"></a> in my company. Meantime the -necessary rigidity of position had to be preserved; there was only room -in the turf for one heel, and for the point of my ice-axe, for which -there was no other possible resting-place. Its preservation, indeed, -that day was wonderful; at one time I felt a momentary temptation to -throw it down in order to better the hold with the hand, but this would -not bear a second thought.</p> - -<p>“I now lost no time in placing myself on the slabs. I found that I dare -not move on them in an upright position, and had to seek support with -both hands. My condition was not an enviable one, and in no direction -could an effort to proceed be made without danger. The situation was as -follows: If I could manage to advance in front, I should, eventually, -reach the more easily inclined slabs, on which I could walk; but then it -was some way. If I could cross the much shorter interval (some 15 feet) -to the right, I should reach a grass band below the rocks at the side; -but then there intervened a broad, black, glistening streak, where -waters oozed down and where to tread was fatal. Suddenly, without any -warning, I found myself going down. I remember no slip, but rather that -it was as if all hold gave way at once under the too potent force of -gravity. Anyhow I was sliding down the rocks, and that helplessly I -made, I<a name="page_149" id="page_149"></a> believe, little or no attempt to obtain fresh hold; I simply -remained rigid in the position in which I was, waiting for the fatal -momentum to come which should dash me below. The instants passed, and at -each I expected the momentum to begin. I felt quite a surprise when, -instead, the sliding mass slowly pulled up and came to a stoppage. The -scales of fate had been most delicately balanced, and a hair’s weight in -the right one decided that this paper should be written. Had I -floundered, like a non-swimmer out of his depth, I must have gone down; -but the first moments of despondency past the opening for action had -once for all brought with it that species of mechanical coolness which -is the happy concomitant of so many forms of habitual physical -occupation.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_189a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_189a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_189a_sml.jpg" width="228" height="322" alt="The balloon “Stella” getting ready to start from Zermatt -for the first balloon passage of the Alps, September, 1903. - -(P. 301.)" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The balloon “Stella” getting ready to start from Zermatt -for the first balloon passage of the Alps, September, 1903. -<br /> -(P. 301.)</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_189b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_189b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_189b_sml.jpg" width="218" height="326" alt="A bivouac in the Alps in the olden days. By the late Mr. -W. F. Donkin." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A bivouac in the Alps in the olden days. By the late Mr. -W. F. Donkin.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_189c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_189c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_189c_sml.jpg" width="224" height="318" alt="Boulder practice on an off day. - -To face p 148." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Boulder practice on an off day. -<br /> -To face p 148.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_189d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_189d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_189d_sml.jpg" width="234" height="318" alt="The last rocks on the descent." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The last rocks on the descent.</span> -</p> - -<p>“If it be asked, what were my thoughts when I was going down, I can only -reply that they chiefly amounted to a sort of dull feeling that I was -actually in for a fall, being concentrated on waiting for its inevitable -commencement; and that there was no such terror or disagreeable -realisation of the situation as people are apt to assign to such -moments. Such realisations exist most deeply in the imaginations of the -non-combatants outside the fray. During the whole affair my attention -was mainly directed to the physical combating with difficulties, and the -passing reflections were partly<a name="page_150" id="page_150"></a> indifferent, partly frivolous. A sort -of acceptance of the position, indeed, possessed me, which almost -amounted to a melancholy complacency, and, at most, perhaps, the -customary ‘When I get out of this’ was changed as fast as it rose up in -my imagination into a sadder ‘If ever.’ It was the feeling of the -gamester or the soldier surprised at last by adverse odds, intent on his -craft as at other times, but with a new and melancholy consciousness.</p> - -<p>“My first thought when I came to a standstill—I cannot have gone more -than a couple of feet at most—was what I could do even then, with no -more hold than before? But I placed myself again in my old position on -the tuft; and reflecting that if I had been intended to go down I should -have gone then, and almost feeling as if, having escaped that extremity -of risk, I had a sort of security for the rest, I resolved without -further hesitation to make a determined effort. I once more raised -myself on my feet and decided to make a push across the slabs to the -grass belt at all hazards; possibly, in case of slipping on the way, I -might be able to make a desperate sort of rush for it. I now found two -unevennesses in succession, which would allow the side of the foot to -rest in them with some chance of staying, while I moved my body along, -there being at no time hold for the hand. The second of these slight -hollows was<a name="page_151" id="page_151"></a> fortunately in the dread bank of moisture itself. Below, -the rocks shelved away to a steep fall; in front, the grass tufts smiled -on me nearer and nearer. While I was feeling along the slabs with the -hand that held my ice-axe, the latter by chance fixed itself in a cavity -that would otherwise have escaped my notice. It was just about the size -and depth of a half-crown, and could not have been caught by the -fingers, but the rigid iron stuck in it. This was perhaps the first bit -of direct hold I had. A yard further on was another of the same size. -But now I had passed the wet rock and was nearing the grass, and -carefully launching my ice-axe, so as not to disturb my balance, I -hooked it in the grass, and in another moment had reached its hospitable -tufts. Creeping up the side, I at last found <i>terra firma</i>.”<a name="page_152" id="page_152"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX<br /><br /> -<small>A NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE DENT BLANCHE</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">M</span>R CECIL SLINGSBY has kindly allowed me to extract the following -admirable account of a guideless ascent with two friends of the Dent -Blanche. It will be noticed that during a very cold night they “avoided” -their “brandy-flask like poison.” When a climber is exhausted and help -is near a flask of brandy is invaluable, but when a party has to spend a -bitterly cold night in the open, it is madness to touch spirits at all. -The effect of a stimulant is to quicken the action of the heart and -drive the blood with increased rapidity to the surface. Here it is -continually cooled, and before long the heart finds it has to work -double hard to keep up the circulation. Therefore to take brandy in -order to resist the cold for hours together is like stirring up a cup of -hot fluid, whereby fresh surfaces are continually brought in contact -with the air and cooled with far greater rapidity than if left quiet. -The best companion a climber can have during a night out above the -snow-line is a small spirit-lamp. With this he<a name="page_153" id="page_153"></a> can amuse and fortify -himself at intervals, melting snow and making tea or soup, which will be -of real help in enabling the party to pass without injury through the -ordeal. Doctors and climbers of experience will, I know, bear out what I -say. The truth of it was once more shown not very long ago under the -following circumstances:</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:370px;"> -<a href="images/i_195a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_195a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_195a_sml.jpg" width="364" height="248" alt="Provisions for a mountain hotel. By Royston Le Blond. - -To face p. 152." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Provisions for a mountain hotel. By Royston Le Blond. -<br /> -To face p. 152.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:370px;"> -<a href="images/i_195c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_195c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_195c_sml.jpg" width="365" height="251" alt="An outlook over rock and snow." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">An outlook over rock and snow.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:380px;"> -<a href="images/i_195b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_195b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_195b_sml.jpg" width="373" height="259" alt="The Dent Blanche from the Theodule Glacier in summer." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Dent Blanche from the Theodule Glacier in summer.</span> -</p> - - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:380px;"> -<a href="images/i_195d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_195d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_195d_sml.jpg" width="367" height="263" alt="The Dent Blanche from the Schwarzsee in winter." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Dent Blanche from the Schwarzsee in winter.</span> -</p> - -<p>In August 1902 two French tourists with a guide and a porter set out to -ascend Mont Blanc. The weather became very bad, nevertheless they -pressed on, hoping to reach that veritable death-trap, the Vallot Hut. -In this they failed, and as the hour was late they took the fatal course -of digging a hole in the snow in which to pass the night. They were -provided with brandy, and, doubtless in ignorance of the results it was -sure to cause, they shared all they had. Both travellers died before -morning, and the guides then attempted to descend to Chamonix. They seem -to have been dazed, and to have lost their heads, and within a few -minutes of each other each fell into a crevasse. The porter was killed -on the spot, the guide was rescued, but little injured, after six hours’ -imprisonment.</p> - -<p>Will people ever realise that Mont Blanc, by reason of the very facility -by which it may be ascended, is the most dangerous mountain a beginner -can ascend? He is almost certain to chance on incompetent guides, and -these, if the weather becomes bad, have not the<a name="page_154" id="page_154"></a> moral force—indeed a -first-class man would have something even more compelling—to insist on -an immediate return. The size of the mountain is so great that to be -lost on it is a risk a really good guide would simply refuse to face.</p> - -<p>To turn now to Mr Slingsby’s narrative. His party had reached the -<i>arête</i> of the Dent Blanche without incident, and he writes:</p> - -<p>“The rocks on the crest of the ridge were in perfect order. The day was -magnificent, and there was not the remotest sign of a storm. Climbers -who were on neighbouring mountains on this day all speak of the fine -weather. My friend, Mr Eric Greenwood, who was on the Rothhorn, told me -that that peak was in capital condition, but that there was a strong -N.W. wind blowing at the top. We had perfect calm. Mr Greenwood stopped -on the snow <i>arête</i> till a late hour in the afternoon, taking -photographs, and neither his guides nor he had the slightest expectation -of a thunderstorm.</p> - -<p>“We stuck faithfully to the ridge, and climbed up, and as nearly as -possible over, each point as we reached it, because of the ice which -shrouded the rocks almost everywhere on the west face.</p> - -<p>“We were forced on to the face of one little pinnacle, and had to use -the greatest care.</p> - -<p>“Nowhere did we come to any place where we<a name="page_155" id="page_155"></a> felt that our powers were -overtaxed; still, the work was difficult, though not supremely so.</p> - -<p>“A few days later I met Mr Conway at Breuil, and I asked him what he -meant in this case by the term, ‘following the <i>arête</i>.’ His -interpretation, which is rather an elastic one, is this: ‘Climb over the -pinnacles if it is convenient to do so. If not convenient, shirk them by -passing below their western bases.’ This latter method was most probably -impracticable on the occasion of our ascent, which fully accounts for -the great difference between Mr Conway’s ‘times’ and our own, as we -certainly climbed at least as quickly as an average party on the Dent -Blanche during the whole of our ascent.</p> - -<p>“The time sped merrily and quickly by, and the difficulties decreased as -we hastened onward. Just as we left the last rocks a light filmy cloud, -sailing up from the north, hovered for an instant over the top of the -mountain, and then settled upon it; otherwise, though it had then become -exceedingly cold, the sky was clear and the day perfect, and we could -not help comparing our good fortune with that of those early climbers -who fought their way upwards, step by step, against most ferocious -gales.</p> - -<p>“After some tiring step-cutting on the gentler slopes above the rocks, -which, like the west face, were sheathed in ice, we reached at last the -south<a name="page_156" id="page_156"></a> end of the little flat ridge which forms the summit of the Dent -Blanche, where a small flagstaff is usually to be seen. Here there was -an enormous snow cornice which overhung the eastern side. The little -cloud merely clung to the cornice on the ridge, and evidently had no -malice in it at all. None of us put down the time at which we reached -the top. One of us thinks that it was just after four o’clock, but the -memory of the two others is clear that it was between three and four; at -any rate, of this we are all agreed, that it was not so late as 4.12, -the hour when the author of <i>Scrambles in the Alps</i> reached the summit -in bad weather. My watch, being out of order, was left at Zermatt.</p> - -<p>“We left directly, and in less than a minute were out of the little -cloud, which was uncommonly cold, and again we revelled in bright -sunshine. We were under no apprehension of danger, nor had we any reason -whatever to be anxious, as our way was clear enough: there was no doubt -about that. We were in capital training, and we had, most certainly, a -sufficiency of daylight still left to allow us to get well beyond every -difficulty upon the mountain. Moreover, Solly, with his usual -instinctive thoughtfulness, carried a lantern in his pocket, and we had -left another lower down. Thus we had a most reasonable expectation of -reaching the Stockje that evening, and Zermatt early the next morning.<a name="page_157" id="page_157"></a></p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:380px;"> -<a href="images/i_201a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_201a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_201a_sml.jpg" width="247" height="322" alt="The hut on the Col de Bertol, where climbers now often -sleep for the ascent of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The hut on the Col de Bertol, where climbers now often -sleep for the ascent of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:380px;"> -<a href="images/i_201c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_201c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_201c_sml.jpg" width="251" height="329" alt="A party ascending the Aiguilles Rouges (Arolla). The -people can be seen on the sky-line to the left, at the top of the white -streak. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A party ascending the Aiguilles Rouges (Arolla). The -people can be seen on the sky-line to the left, at the top of the white -streak. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:380px;"> -<a href="images/i_201b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_201b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_201b_sml.jpg" width="241" height="317" alt="The summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:380px;"> -<a href="images/i_201d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_201d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_201d_sml.jpg" width="253" height="327" alt="Cornice on the summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard -Rawlence. - -To face p. 156." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Cornice on the summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard -Rawlence. -<br /> -To face p. 156.</span> -</p> - -<p>“When we had come down for about an hour, we saw an occasional flash of -lightning playing about the Aiguilles Rouges d’Arolla. This was the -first indication that we had of foul weather. Soon afterwards a dark -cloud crept up ominously over the shoulder of Mont Collon, and on to the -Pigne d’Arolla. Still no cloud seemed to threaten us, but we hurried on -very quickly.</p> - -<p>“On arriving at the col, just above the great rock tower, we turned down -a little gully on the west face. Here, though the work was exceedingly -difficult, we lost no time whatever, and undoubtedly we chose the best -route. The storm, meanwhile, had crossed over the east Arolla ridge, and -we saw the lightning flashing about the Aiguille de la Za and Dent -Perroc, and the clouds, as they advanced, grew more and more angry -looking.</p> - -<p>“We were advancing as quickly as the nature of the ground would allow on -a buttress which supports the great tower on the west. It was then about -six o’clock. We had, at the most, only 150 feet of difficult ground to -get over, when a dark and dense cloud fell upon us, and it became, -suddenly and almost without any warning, prematurely dark. Our axes -emitted electric sparks, or rather faint but steady little flames, on -both the adze and pick part; so also did our gloves, the hair of which -stood out quite straight. A handkerchief, which I had<a name="page_158" id="page_158"></a> tied over my hat, -was like a tiara of light. This was very uncanny, but still deeply -interesting. The sparks, when touched by the bare hand or the cheek, -gave out no heat. There was no hissing to be heard on our axes or on the -rocks, but Solly felt a sort of vibration about the spectacles which -were on his forehead that he did not at all like, so he put them under -his hat.</p> - -<p>“Under ordinary circumstances we should have put away our axes until the -storm should had passed away. Of course we did not do this, nor indeed -would any other member of the Alpine Club have done so if he had had the -good fortune to be with us. We wished to get across the 150 feet which -was the only difficulty yet remaining before us. Each one of us was -quite capable of undertaking the work, and, in spite of the unusual -darkness, we had sufficient light for the purpose.</p> - -<p>“Solly was leading across a difficult bit of rock, and clearing away the -ice; Haskett-Smith was paying out the rope as required; I was perched -firmly at the bottom end of a narrow and steep ledge round the corner of -a crag above them with the rope firmly hitched. We were all working -steadily and most carefully, and hoped in a few minutes to clear our -last difficulty. All at once the whole mountain side seemed to be -ablaze, and at the same time there was a muzzled, muffled, or suppressed -peal of thunder,<a name="page_159" id="page_159"></a> apparently coming out of the interior of the -mountain—so much so that, if a great crevice had been opened in the -rocks and fire had burst out from it, we should hardly have been more -surprised than we were. Solly and Haskett-Smith each exclaimed, ‘My axe -was struck,’ and each of them, naturally enough, let his axe go. Where -to none knew. Solly, describing this, says, ‘At the moment I was -standing with my face towards the mountain, with my right arm stretched -out, feeling for a firm foothold with my axe, which I held just under -its head. For perhaps a minute the lightning was coming very fast; then -came the noise, and I saw a curve of flame on the head of my axe. I -involuntarily let it go. The whole place seemed one blaze of light, and -I could distinguish nothing. The thought that rushed through my mind -was—Am I blinded? the intensity of the light was so terrible. It is -difficult to put such events in any order of time; but I think the noise -or explosion came first, before the blaze of light, and the light seemed -to flicker as if a series of flashes were coming. I hardly know whether -my body or any part of my clothing was actually struck. My axe certainly -was, and I think the rocks just by me were.’</p> - -<p>“Haskett-Smith said that his neck was burnt, and we saw later that a -dark-brown band, an inch and a quarter wide, had been burnt exactly half -way<a name="page_160" id="page_160"></a> round his neck. I was untouched. All the sparks disappeared with -the flash.</p> - -<p>“Now the matter was serious enough, as we had only one axe, and we felt -that we had had a most providential escape. There is little doubt that, -if this had occurred upon the crest of the ridge above us, the electric -current would have been much stronger, and the consequences much worse.</p> - -<p>“My two companions then climbed up to the little ledge where I was -sitting, to wait at least until the storm should pass away. Whilst Solly -was doing this, a tremendous gust of wind swept up from the N.W., and -nearly carried him off his feet.</p> - -<p>“The storm lasted much longer than we expected it to do, and by the time -it had vanished it was quite dark. All climbers will readily agree with -me when I say that the storm, seen from such a point of view, where the -mountain forms are so wild, and their guardian glaciers so vast and -glittering, was indescribably grand—so much so that, even under our -circumstances, there was a kind of grim enjoyment which we could not -help feeling.</p> - -<p>“I put my axe upon a higher ledge for safety’s sake. When the storm had -gone by we took stock of our goods. Solly had a lantern. We each had two -shirts, scarfs, and unusually warm clothing. We had plenty of food, some -cold tea, and a flask of brandy. We knew well that we must stop where we -were until<a name="page_161" id="page_161"></a> morning. It was hard luck certainly, as there was only one -narrow prison moat between us and freedom. Once over these 150 feet, we -could have reached the Stockje by lantern light. Of this I am certain. -But no man living could cross the moat except in daylight.</p> - -<p>“Haskett-Smith, who is a marvellous man for making all sort of hitches, -knots, and nooses, managed to get a capital hitch for our rope, and -lashed us to the rock most skilfully. The ledge was steep, and varied -from 1½ to 2 feet wide. As we could not sit back to back, which is the -best plan when possible, we did the next best thing, and sat, squatted, -or leaned, face to back. Solly, who sat at the bottom, had a loose piece -of friable rock which supported one foot. I was in the middle, with my -knees up to my chin, on a steep slope, but was supported by Solly’s back -and by a singularly sharp little stone on which I squatted. -Haskett-Smith leaned with his back against a corner, and with his knees -against my back. Each of us had a rücksack, which helped to keep out the -cold. We made a good meal of potted meat, bread, chocolate, and an -orange, and left a box of sardines and other food for the morning.</p> - -<p>“Several short but heavy snow and hail showers fell after the -thunderstorm had subsided, but we were thankful that there was no rain. -The wind got up too, and whistled wildly through the crags above us.<a name="page_162" id="page_162"></a> -Fortunately, a screen of rock above our ledge partly sheltered us. We -faced a grim and grisly little pinnacle on the west face of the -mountain, which became, hour after hour, if possible, more ghostly. How -we did hate it, to be sure. A light in a châlet near Ferpécle shone like -a beacon for some hours, which was a pleasant contrast to the near view -of the ghost, but it seemed to be a terribly long way off. We kept up -our spirits capitally, and from previous experience I, at least, knew -how thankful we ought to be that no member of our party was of a -pessimistic turn of mind. At the same time, we were fully aware how -serious the matter was, but we were determined to get well through it, -helped, we trusted, by a power not our own.</p> - -<p>“Our greatest trouble during the night arose from the consciousness that -Mr Schuster, Herr Seiler, and other friends at Zermatt would be very -anxious about us, and we often spoke of it with regret.</p> - -<p>“We were most careful to keep moving our hands and feet all the night, -and, though the temptation to indulge in sleep was very great, we denied -ourselves this luxury. After two o’clock an increased vigilance was -necessary, as the sky became clearer, and the cold much more intense. Mr -Aitkin’s guides, who were then bivouacking above the Stockje, -‘complained much of the cold.’ We probably suffered less than they did, -as, at our great altitude, the air<a name="page_163" id="page_163"></a> was doubtless much drier than below. -At the same time, gentlemen who were occupying comfortable beds in -luxurious hotels in the Vispthal thought the night was unusually warm. -Haskett-Smith imagined the whole night that Solly was another member of -the A.C., and invariably addressed him by the wrong name. This -hallucination was, no doubt, the result of the electric shock.</p> - -<p>“Shortly before 5 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> we opened our sardine-box, which was no easy -task, as our outer gloves were like iron gauntlets. We made a good meal -of petrified fish, frozen oranges, and bread. We avoided our -brandy-flask like poison on the whole expedition.</p> - -<p>“We soon discovered the lost axes below us, half embedded in hard snow. -Then we began to move. Solly took my axe, and with much difficulty, and -at the expense of a good deal of time, cut down to and recovered one of -the missing ones. We found, however, that it was then far too cold, and -we were too benumbed to work safely, so we returned to our ledge again -until eight o’clock. Long before this hour the ghostly pinnacle was -gilded by the morning sun, and, if possible, we hated it more than ever, -as no warm rays could reach the place where we were for hours to come. -On telling several of the leading guides in Zermatt about waiting until -eight o’clock on the ledge, they all said that it was quite<a name="page_164" id="page_164"></a> early -enough for us to move after spending a night out in the cold, and that -they had done exactly the same under similar circumstances. We were sure -we were right; still their testimony is valuable. Messrs Kennedy and -Hardy, when they had their ‘Night Adventure on the Bristenstock,’ say -they were ‘obliged to stamp about for some twenty minutes in order to -restore circulation, or we should not have had sufficient steadiness to -have continued our descent in safety.’ Well, these gentlemen had neither -waistcoats nor neckties, and had only a lump of bread and one bottle of -wine. We were at least well fed and warmly clad, but we had no room to -stamp about. Having now two axes, we were able to work again with -renewed confidence in our powers. We saw the third axe lying half -imbedded in the snow a long way below us, and about a rope’s length from -some firm rocks. The hail and snow, which had partly covered the rocks, -increased the difficulty, and the ice in which we had to cut steps was -unusually hard. In fact, our 150 feet were gained with much difficulty, -and, by the exercise of great caution and severe labour, at last, after -much time and manœuvring, we recovered the third axe, and were indeed -happy.</p> - -<p>“Two minutes later we stood in bright sunshine, and such was its -invigorating power that in ten minutes all our stiffness had vanished. -My hat<a name="page_165" id="page_165"></a> blew off here, and rolled on its stiffened brim at a tremendous -pace down a couloir of ice. Fortunately, I had a woollen helmet which -Miss Richardson had knitted for me. We hastened on very quickly in order -to relieve, as soon as possible, the anxiety which we well knew our -friends at Zermatt were enduring.</p> - -<p>“When on the snow ridge between points 3912 mètres and 3729 mètres we -heard voices far below us on the west, and soon saw what we knew -afterwards to be Mr Aitkin, Imboden, and a porter. They had abandoned -their intention of climbing the Dent Blanche ‘on account of bad -weather.’ Indeed, Miss Richardson, who had spent the night at the -Stockje, was told by Imboden that ‘in such weather it would be -impossible, and probably would remain so for a day or two; therefore, -they might as well go to Ferpécle and do another col the next day.’</p> - -<p>“Seeing that the party were above the route to Ferpécle, we knew at once -that they were looking for us. Imboden shouted out to us, ‘Where do you -come from?’ We pointed to the Dent Blanche, and they immediately turned -towards Zermatt, and we only missed them by about five minutes at the -usual breakfast place.</p> - -<p>“Now, as we knew that there was no need for us to hurry, we rested, and -made a most hearty breakfast, as we had left on the rocks a whole -chicken, some ham, bread, plums, and a bottle of white wine.<a name="page_166" id="page_166"></a></p> - -<p>“On crossing the glacier to the Wandfluh rocks our axes and rücksacks -hissed like serpents for a long time, while we saw in the distance the -storm which overtook Mr Macdonald on the Lyskamm that very morning; and -none of us liked the renewal of electric energy, which may well be -believed. A heavy mist also threatened us. Mr Aitkin had a similar -experience to ours.</p> - -<p>“We descended by way of the Wandfluh, and above the Stockje untied the -rope which we had had on for thirty-eight hours; and such is the virtue -of the Alpine knot that we were as firmly tied at the end of this time -as we were when we first put on the rope.</p> - -<p>“On the Zmutt Glacier we bathed our hands repeatedly in the glacier -pools as a safeguard against possible frost-bites with entirely -satisfactory results. On the glacier we were delighted to meet Mr E. T. -Hartley, who welcomed us most warmly, and told us of the anxiety of our -friends; he, however, and one good lady in Zermatt said all the time -that we should return safe and sound again. Just off the glacier we met -three porters provided with blankets and provisions sent by the kind -thoughtfulness of Mr Schuster and Herr Seiler.</p> - -<p>“We rested at the Staffel Alp, where we had some most refreshing tea, -and reached Zermatt in the evening.”<a name="page_167" id="page_167"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X<br /><br /> -<small>ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE</small></h2> - -<p class="nind">I AM indebted to Mr Harold Spender, the author of a fine description of -the accident in 1899 on the Dent Blanche, for permission to reprint the -greater portion of it, and also to the proprietors of <i>McClure’s -Magazine</i> and of <i>The Strand Magazine</i>, in which publications it first -appeared. The safe return of one of the party is alluded to in <i>The -Alpine Journal</i> as one of the most wonderful escapes in the whole annals -of mountaineering.</p> - -<p>“Mr F. W. Hill, whose narrative in <i>The Alpine Journal</i> necessarily -forms the best evidence as to the incidents, says that it was Glynne -Jones who wanted to climb the Dent Blanche by its western <i>arête</i>—a -notably difficult undertaking, and one that has probably only twice been -achieved.</p> - -<p>“Glynne Jones had discussed the possibilities of the undertaking with -his own guide, Elias Furrer, of Stalden, and they had come to the -conclusion that the conditions were never likely to be more favourable -than in this August of 1899. Glynne Jones,<a name="page_168" id="page_168"></a> therefore, asked Mr Hill to -accompany them, and to bring along with him his own guide, Jean -Vuignier, of Evolena. Both guides knew their climbers very well; for -Furrer had been with Glynne Jones on and off for five years, and -Vuignier had climbed at Zermatt with Hill the year before. But Mr Hill, -who had promised to take his wife to Zermatt over the Col d’Herens, -refused to go. Glynne Jones accordingly secured a second guide in -Clemens Zurbriggen, of Saas-Fée, a young member of a great climbing -clan. Vuignier, however, was so disappointed at his employer’s refusal, -that Mr Hill, finding that his wife made no objection, finally consented -to join the party. Thus, with the addition of Mr Hill and his guide, the -expedition numbered five members. They left Arolla on Sunday morning, -27th August, with a porter carrying blankets. They intended to sleep on -the rocks below the <i>arête</i>. Arriving at the Bricolla châlets, a few -shepherds’ huts high up the mountain, at four in the afternoon, they -changed their minds, sent the blankets down to Arolla, and slept in the -huts.</p> - -<p>“They started at three o’clock in the morning in two parties, the first -consisting of Furrer, Zurbriggen, and Jones, roped in that order, and -the second of Vuignier and Hill. They crossed the glacier and reached -the ridge in good time. ‘It was soon very evident,’ says Mr Hill in his -narrative, ‘that the<a name="page_169" id="page_169"></a> climbing was going to be difficult, as the rocks -were steep slabs, broken and easy occasionally, but, on the whole, far -too smooth.’ Rock-climbers do not particularly care how steep a rock may -be so long as it is broken up into fissures which will give hold to the -feet and hands. In the steepest mountains of the Dolomite region, for -instance, the rocks are thus broken, and therefore mountains can be -climbed easily which, from their bases, look absolutely inaccessible.</p> - -<p>“As they progressed up and along the ridge the climbing became more and -more difficult. They had to go slowly and with extreme caution, and -often they were in doubt as to the best way to proceed. Sometimes, -indeed, there seemed no possible route. In these places Furrer, who -seems to have been accepted as the leader of the party, would detach -himself from the rope and go forward to find a passage.</p> - -<p>“On entering upon this part of the climb the two parties had joined -ropes, and were now advancing as one, and roped in this order—Furrer, -Zurbriggen, Glynne Jones, Vuignier, and Hill.</p> - -<p>“It is evident that between nine o’clock and ten climbing had become -exceedingly arduous. ‘In two or three places,’ says Mr Hill, ‘the only -possible way was over an overhanging rock up which the leader had to be -pushed and the others helped from<a name="page_170" id="page_170"></a> above and below.’ This gives us a -graphic picture of the nature of the climb. Nothing is more fatiguing -than to climb over a rock which is in the least degree overhanging. Mr -Hill tells me that Furrer showed him his finger-tips at -breakfast-time—9 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>—and that they were severely cut.</p> - -<p>“Yet no one must imagine for an instant that the party was in the least -degree puzzled or vexed. There is nothing so exhilarating as the -conflict with danger, and it generally happens in climbing a mountain -that the party is merriest at the most difficult places. Mr Hill, -indeed, tells us that they were in the ‘highest spirits.’ ‘Climbing -carefully,’ he says, ‘but in the highest spirits, we made good progress, -for at ten o’clock it was agreed we were within an hour of the summit.’ -It was at this point and time that the accident occurred.</p> - -<p>“They had been forced below the ridge by the difficulty of the rocks, -and had come to a place where their obvious route lay up a narrow gully, -or sloping chimney. On an ordinary day it is possible that they would -have found no difficulty in going forward, but a few days before there -had been rain, and probably snow, on these high rock summits. At any -rate, the rocks were ‘glazed’; covered, that is, with a film of ice, -probably snow melted and re-frozen, just sufficiently thick to adhere, -and sufficiently slippery to make the fingers<a name="page_171" id="page_171"></a> ‘slither’ over the rocks. -If the climber cannot clear away the ice with his ice-axe, he must go -round another way, and if the rocks are steep the first course becomes -obviously impossible. That was the condition of affairs at ten o’clock -on the morning of 28th August 1899.</p> - -<p>“In a party of five roped together, with 30 feet of rope between each -member, the amount of space covered by the party will obviously be 40 -yards; and it frequently happens that those who are roped last cannot -see the leaders. Mr Hill, as we have seen, was roped last, and by the -time he reached the level of the other climbers Furrer had already -turned away from the gully and was attempting to climb to the ridge by -another route. To the left of the gully in front of them was a vertical -rock face stretching for about 30 feet. Beyond this was a smooth-looking -buttress some 10 feet high, by climbing which the party could regain the -ridge. When Hill came up with the rest, Furrer was already attempting to -climb this buttress.</p> - -<p>“But the buttress was quite smooth, and Furrer was at a loss to find a -hold. Unable to support himself, he called to Zurbriggen to place an axe -under his feet for him to stand on. In this way he might be able to -reach with his hands to the top of the buttress. There was nothing -unusual in this method of procedure. In climbing difficult rocks,<a name="page_172" id="page_172"></a> when -the hand-holds are far up, it is frequently the custom to help the -climber by placing an ice-axe under his feet. But in this case Furrer -discovered that he could not climb the buttress with the help of -Zurbriggen alone, and he would probably have done more wisely if he had -abandoned the attempt. But, instead of that, he called Glynne Jones to -help Zurbriggen in holding him up.</p> - -<p>“‘Apparently,’ says Mr Hill, ‘he did not feel safe, for he turned his -head and spoke to Glynne Jones, who then went to hold the axe steady.’</p> - -<p>“From Mr Hill’s own explanations the situation was as follows: The -leading climber, Furrer, was grasping the rock face, standing on an -ice-axe held vertically by Zurbriggen and Glynne Jones. These two were -forced, in order to hold the ice-axe securely, to crouch down with their -faces to the ground, and were, therefore oblivious of what was going on -above them. But the important point is, that their four hands were -occupied in holding the ice-axe, and that as they were standing on a -narrow ledge, with a very sharp slope immediately below, these two men -were in a helpless position. They were unready to stand a shock. Thus, -at the critical moment, out of a party of five climbers, three had -virtually cast everything on a single die!</p> - -<p>“Mr Hill, standing level with the rest of the party, could see quite -clearly what was happening. He<a name="page_173" id="page_173"></a> was about 60 feet distant from them, the -guide Vuignier being roped between them at an equal distance of some 30 -feet from each. Furrer could now stand upright on the axe, which was -firmly held by four strong hands, and could reach with his own fingers -to the top of the buttress. It was a perilous moment. It is the rule -with skilled climbers that you should never leave your foot-hold until -you have secured your hand-hold. The natural issue would have been that -Furrer, finding it impossible to secure on the smooth rock a steady grip -with his hands, should have declined to trust himself. But the science -of the study is one thing and the art of the mountain another. There are -moments when a man does not know whether he has secured a steady grip or -an unsteady, and the question can only be answered by making the -attempt. If the party blundered at all, it was in allowing the second -and third men to be so completely occupied with holding the axe that -there was no reserve of power to hold up Furrer in case of a slip. But -it is easy to speak after the event.</p> - -<p>“What Hill now saw was this: He saw Furrer reach his hands to the top of -the buttress, take a grip, and attempt to pull himself up. But his feet -never left the ice-axe beneath, for in the process of gripping his hands -slipped. And then, as Hill looked, Furrer’s body slowly fell back. It -seemed, he has told himself,<a name="page_174" id="page_174"></a> to take quite a long time falling. Furrer -fell backwards, right on to the two oblivious men beneath him, causing -them to collapse instantly, knocking them off their standing-place, and -carrying them with him in his fall from the ridge. ‘All three,’ says Mr -Hill in his narrative, ‘fell together.’ Instinctively he turned to the -wall to get a better hold of the rock, and therefore did not see the -next incident in the fatal sequence. Vuignier, as we have seen, was -standing 30 feet from the first three, and the weight of three human -bodies swinging at the end of the rope must have come directly on him. -He was, apparently, taken by surprise, and immediately pulled off the -rock. Hill heard that terrible sound—the scuffle and rattle of stones -that meant the dragging of a helpless human being into space—and he -knew, or thought he knew, that his own turn would come in a moment; but -as he clung there to the rock, waiting for the inevitable end, there was -a pause. Nothing happened.</p> - -<p>“After a few endless seconds of time he faced round and found himself -alone. Looking down, he saw his four companions sliding down the -precipitous slopes at a terrific rate, without a cry, but with arms -outstretched, helplessly falling into the abyss. Between him and them, -and from his waist, there hung 30 feet of rope swinging slowly to and -fro. The faithful Vuignier had probably fastened the<a name="page_175" id="page_175"></a> rope securely -round some point of rock to protect his master. The full weight of the -four bodies had probably expended itself on the rock-fastening of the -rope, and thereby saved the life of the fifth climber. Dazed and -astonished to find himself still in the land of the living, Mr Hill -stood for some time watching his comrades fall, until, sickened, he -turned away to face his own situation.</p> - -<p>“It was not very promising. He was without food, drink, or warm -clothing. No man alone could climb down by the ridge up which those five -experts had climbed in the morning. And in front lay a difficulty which -had already destroyed his friends when attempting to overcome it by -mutual help. It seemed impossible.</p> - -<p>“Perhaps it was fortunate that Hill was not only a mathematician, but a -man of characteristic mathematical temperament—cool, unemotional, -long-headed. Most men in his situation would have gone mad. Some would -have waited right there till starvation overcame them or a rescue party -arrived. But there was little or no chance of a rescue party, and Mr -Hill was certainly not the man to wait for starvation. It was a curious -irony that probably at that very moment there was a party on the summit -of the Dent Blanche. Mr Hill’s party had seen two climbers on the south -<i>arête</i> at half-past eight o’clock, and again about an hour later. At -this moment<a name="page_176" id="page_176"></a> they were probably at the summit. But Mr Hill had no means -of communicating with them, and the hour’s climb which lay between him -and them might as well have been the length of Europe. An hour later he -himself heard a faint ‘cooey’ (the party were probably on the way -down)—a jovial, generous hail from men unconscious of any catastrophe.</p> - -<p>“Mr Hill’s immediate task was to regain the ridge and reach the summit. -At the moment of the accident he was some 60 feet from the fatal -buttress, and now wisely made no attempt to get near it. Instead, he -moved to circumvent the glazed gully from its other side. After long and -tedious efforts, lasting for a period of time which he cannot now even -approximately estimate, he succeeded in his flanking movement, and -finally, with great labour and peril, climbed back to the ridge by a -slope of frozen snow and ice broken with rocks. It would be difficult to -imagine anything more terrible than this lonely climb over ice-covered -rocks, the painful cutting of steps up an almost precipitous wall, with -a precipice many thousand feet deep at his back, down which the smallest -slip would send him to certain death. But at last he regained the ridge, -and the difficulties of ascent were now mainly overcome. In about -another hour he found himself on the summit—a solitary, mournful -victor. It was there he heard the shout from the<a name="page_177" id="page_177"></a> other party. But he -could not see them or make them hear, and so he made his way down with -all reasonable speed, hoping to overtake them.</p> - -<p>“Hill had climbed the Dent Blanche in the previous year with a guided -party, and therefore, to some extent, knew the route. Without much -difficulty he was able to follow the ridge as far as possible down to -the lowest <i>gendarme</i>, a pile of rock with a deep, narrow fissure. Then -a sudden mist hid everything from view, and it was impossible to see the -way off the <i>gendarme</i>. He tried several routes downward in the mist, -but at last wisely resolved to wait till it lifted. While he was -searching, a snow-storm and a cold wind came up. ‘They drove me,’ says -Mr Hill in his plain way, ‘to seek shelter in the lee of the rocks.’ -There he tied himself with his rope, and, to avoid the danger of falling -off in a moment of sleep, still further secured himself by an ice-axe -wedged firmly in front of him—poor protections to a man absolutely -without food or wraps, clinging to the side of an abyss in the searching -cold and stormy darkness of mist and snow, wedged under the eave of an -overhanging rock, and only able to sit in a cramped posture. But Mr Hill -was no ordinary man. If the Fates were asking for his life he determined -to sell it dearly, sustained in his resolve by the<a name="page_178" id="page_178"></a> thought of that -waiting wife, unconscious of ill, below in Zermatt.</p> - -<p>“It must have been, at this time, past mid-day on Monday, 28th August.</p> - -<p>“The storm lasted all that Monday, and Monday night, and Tuesday -morning. All through those dreadful hours of darkness Hill sat in the -cleft of rock, sleeping most of the time, but always half-frozen with -the cold, and whenever he awoke obliged to beat himself to regain his -natural warmth. Happily, he was well protected against the falling snow -by the eave of the overhanging rock, but it covered his knees and boots, -causing him intense cold in the feet.</p> - -<p>“At last, at mid-day on Tuesday, the mist cleared and the sun shone -again in a sky of perfect blue. He could now resume his descent. To -climb over snow-covered rocks in a roped party is difficult enough, but -to do it alone is to risk your life many times over. But there was no -alternative.</p> - -<p>“At last the rocks ended and the worst of the peril was over. He had -reached the snow <i>arête</i>, where not even the heavy fall of snow had -quite obliterated the tracks of those who had gone in front of him. -These helped him to find his way. But the steps had mostly to be recut, -and that must have been very fatiguing after his previous experiences. -The next difficulty was the lower part<a name="page_179" id="page_179"></a> of the Wandfluh, a bold wall of -rock which leads down first to the Schonbuhl and then to the Zmutt -Glaciers, and which, at its base, ends in a steep precipice that can be -descended only by one gully. Here Mr Hill’s memory failed him. He could -not remember which was the right gully. This was, perhaps, the most -terrible trial of all. If he could find that gully his task was almost -accomplished. The rest of the descent to Zermatt is little more than a -walk. But hour after hour passed; he descended gully after gully, only -to find himself blocked below by one precipice after another. In one of -these attempts he dropped his ice-axe, without which he could never hope -to return alive. Unless he could recover it he was a dead man. But, no, -it was not quite lost. There it lay, far below him, on the rocks. Slowly -and painfully he descended the gully to fetch it. At last he reached it. -In this quest he wasted a whole hour!</p> - -<p>“At last he discovered a series of chimneys to the extreme right of the -Wandfluh and leading down to the glacier. Letting himself down these -steep chimneys, he found himself at last, on Tuesday evening, on the -high moraines of the Zmutt Glacier. He must have reached the glacier -about six o’clock, but he had only the sun to reckon by. Here the steep -descent ends, and there is but a stony walk of two and a half hours down -the glacier by a path<a name="page_180" id="page_180"></a> which leads to the Staffel Alp Inn. The sun set -while he was still on the moraine, and he has a vivid recollection of -seeing the red ‘Alpengluh’ on Monte Rosa. But as the darkness grew it -became more and more difficult to keep to the path.</p> - -<p>“Here at last his marvellous strength began to fail him. He had no -snow-glasses, and his eyes were suffering from the prolonged glare of -the snow. A sort of waking trance fell on him. As he stumbled forward, -over the stones of that horrible moraine, he imagined that his -companions were still alive and with him. He kept calling to them to -‘come along.’ ‘It is getting late, you fellows,’ he shouted; ‘come -along.’</p> - -<p>“At last he was brought up by a great rock. In the darkness he had -wandered below the path. The rock entirely barred his way. He had a -vague illusion that it was a châlet, and wandered round it searching for -a door. At last he settled down by it in a semi-conscious condition. -Then he must have fallen asleep, probably about ten o’clock. The sleep -lasted about twelve hours, and was better than meat and drink. To most -men it would have ended in death.</p> - -<p>“When he woke up at ten o’clock on Wednesday morning, in broad daylight, -he soon saw that he had been sleeping quite near the path. A few -minutes’ scramble brought him back to it, and he<a name="page_181" id="page_181"></a> soon came to a little -wooden refreshment-house, about an hour below the Staffel Inn, which he -had passed in the darkness. He went up to the woman at the hut and asked -for some beer! He had only fifty centimes in his pocket; one of his dead -companions had held the purse. He volunteered no complaint; but the -woman was sympathetic, and soon found out whence he came. She then gave -him a little milk and some dry bread—all she had. After a short rest he -resumed his way to Zermatt, distant about half an hour, and reached the -village at 11.30. As he was walking down the main street past the church -he met his wife.</p> - -<p>“He told her simply what had happened. Then he had lunch. ‘I was now -ravenous,’ he says, ‘and devoured a beefsteak, with the help of a glass -of whisky and soda, and a bottle of champagne.’ Within an hour or two he -was entirely recovered.”<a name="page_182" id="page_182"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI<br /><br /> -<small>A STIRRING DAY ON THE ROSETTA</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">A</span>MONGST the many rock scrambles in the neighbourhood of St Martino in -the Dolomites of Tyrol, the Rosetta when ascended by the western face -can be counted on to awaken an interest in the most stolid of climbers. -I am indebted to the courtesy of a girl friend for the loan of her -mountaineering diary, and permission to make extracts from its very -interesting contents, of which her account of an ascent of the Rosetta -will, I feel sure, be read with keen enjoyment by climbers and -non-climbers alike. That a young English girl on her first visit to the -mountains should carry out with such success so difficult an expedition, -is much to the credit of both herself and her guides. Her brother -accompanied her, and the climb took place on 10th August 1898.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:380px;"> -<a href="images/i_229a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_229a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_229a_sml.jpg" width="218" height="439" alt="Ambrose Supersax. (P. 209.)" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Ambrose Supersax.<br /> -<i>To face</i> p. 182 <span style="margin-left: 10%;">(P. 209.)</span></span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:380px;"> -<a href="images/i_229b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_229b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_229b_sml.jpg" width="432" height="324" alt="From the Rosetta. By Signor Vittorio Sella. - -To face p. 182." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">From the Rosetta. By Signor Vittorio Sella. -<br /> -To face p. 182.</span> -</p> - -<p>“A cautious bang at my door, a faint ‘Si!’ from me, and steps departing. -Then I lit a candle and dressed. But it was the critical moment when the -dawn comes quickly, and I<a name="page_183" id="page_183"></a> blew it out in five minutes and watched the -blue light brighten on the dusky outlines of the white church and -houses. The Cimone was growing pink as I got on my heavy hob-nailed -boots, and, taking my tennis shoes also, I tramped softly down to -breakfast. Bettega, our leading guide, was there, with his cordial smile -and hand-shake, and G—— and Tavernaro soon appeared. We were off -before long, taking with us a porter in addition to the two guides, and -G—— and I let Bettega see plainly that we thought this a little -superfluous, but later on we were glad we had him. I must admit that I -never met such good-natured and thoughtful guides, nor such excellent -ones. After passing through forest, we had to ascend up steep shingle, -and as this steepened I reeled a little, my feet being not as yet well -used to this sort of work. Bettega, however, put his hand behind him, I -crooked my fingers into his, and that gave me all the balance I needed. -Finally we crossed some snow, and sitting on a little platform under a -towering rock, we perceived that the way we were to ascend the Rosetta -would be a very different experience to the climb by the ordinary route.</p> - -<p>“At this point I took off my skirt, and removed my boots, putting on -tennis shoes instead. The rubber soles of these are far safer than nails -on the smooth and slabby Dolomite rock.<a name="page_184" id="page_184"></a></p> - -<p>“The guides jabbered between themselves; Bettega smiled sublimely and -looked utterly in his element, but Tavernaro seemed rather subdued; he -is under the moral influence of Bettega, for though Tavernaro may have -more education and cleverness he rounds upon his comrade at times owing -to his excitable disposition. But on the mountains he slinks at -Bettega’s elbow, as the two roll along with the peculiar mountaineer’s -bending stride on level ground, and Tavernaro never asks a price or -arranges for an excursion without consulting Bettega. But, on the other -hand, Bettega lives in fear of Tavernaro’s lively tongue, so it is about -balanced!</p> - -<p>“Having finished our meal, we set off. I was roped to Bettega, who led. -After about five minutes Bettega, who till then had held in his hand all -the rope we were not using, dropped it in a big coil, and told me to -‘Remain firm’ where I was. He then climbed upwards for a few minutes, -but I did not watch, for though my head had not swum at all as yet, I -wasn’t too sure of it, and the rock face was very sheer, so I neither -looked up nor down, but sat with my cheek against the rock and held on! -But all went merrily. Tavernaro occasionally placed one of my feet, -which was placeless, and we got up the first <i>camino</i>, or rocky chimney, -fairly well. ‘Wait a moment, signorina,’ said Bettega, and then<a name="page_185" id="page_185"></a> he -disappeared overhead—literally disappeared, for he was quite hidden -when he cried cheerily, ‘Come! Come!’ I got up, and found a very small -<i>posto</i> or tiny platform on which to wait, with a disagreeably obtrusive -precipice below it. Above was a second <i>camino</i>, which looked smooth and -gloomy. I leant affectionately against the rock, pondering deeply of -anything except ‘empty space.’ ‘The signorina is all right there?’ -enquired Bettega solicitously. ‘To be sure she is!’ cried Tavernaro -gaily, as he leant over me against the rock. Then up clomb Bettega, and -G—— advanced slowly and surely from below. As the minutes went by I -shut my eyes, and was gloomily thankful when the summons came from -above. Looking up, I could just see Bettega’s bushy black head and -flannel cap couched amongst the rocks. Fifteen feet up the <i>camino</i> a -big stone was wedged, and between this and the back of the chimney one -had to pass, emerging above at the top of the wall. G—— having now -reached the <i>posto</i>, I began to go up, with Tavernaro closely following -me. Bit by bit I climbed; a grab, a hoist, a foot tucked into a crevice -on either side of the <i>camino</i>, a long reach with my arm, a steady -pull—and likewise, it must be confessed, a pull from the rope!—and so -up, up again. The rock wall was abominably straight and holeless. Under -the stone, with the three members placed on ledges or in cracks, I in<a name="page_186" id="page_186"></a> -vain sought a point of rest for the fourth before hauling. ‘Good -heavens!’ I exclaimed in melancholy undertones, and a gurgling chuckle -from below showed that Tavernaro sympathised. ‘Here you are, signorina,’ -he said, giving me his shoulder for a momentary foot-hold. With that -instant of support I swung up on to the stone, and so to the next <i>posto -sicuro</i>, or safe spot. G—— came up without help, but he assured me -that it was a really hard place.</p> - -<p>“Of course I don’t pretend I did it all myself. Quite half a dozen times -I doubt if I could have got up without material aid from the cord, or -from Tavernaro below. Once, in a <i>camino</i>, the latter gave me a butt -with his head, which made me reflect how great a man was lost to the -game of football, while the way he placed my feet was a great help to -one who, as a novice, had not yet learnt to study the foot-holds in -advance.</p> - -<p>“We now reached a place where a third <i>camino</i> ran up above us, while an -awkward traverse led to another on the right. Here I heard Tavernaro -remonstrate with Bettega on the route he had taken, but the latter said, -very decidedly, that he intended going straight on, so Tavernaro, as -usual, subsided, but became very quiet. He had never before ascended -this <i>camino</i>, which was a discovery of Bettega’s, but no doubt he had -heard about it.</p> - -<p>“We began to climb it, Bettega first and I following<a name="page_187" id="page_187"></a> him closely. It -had rained heavily the previous day, and all the loose stones had been -washed to the very edge of the ledges. Not having been cautioned about -these, and intent on getting up, I let several fall. ‘Hi! Gently with -the stones!’ gasped Tavernaro from below, and when he reached my side I -saw that his knuckles were bleeding. ‘Have you hurt yourself?’ I -enquired. ‘No, it is you who have done it, and you’ve twice nearly -killed your brother,’ he replied, but G—— told me to tell Tavernaro he -had sent down a much worse stone than any of mine, whereat he looked -resigned, and remarked, ‘Oh, yes, these things can’t always be avoided.’</p> - -<p>“‘Stay quietly where you are, and wait till I tell you to come on,’ -Bettega now remarked. I crouched in a very narrow chimney for a little, -watched not—a hundred pities—and heard Bettega go up beyond. Not more -than three minutes elapsed before his deep voice sang out: ‘Now, come -up!’ and though I replied: ‘I’m coming,’ I wondered how I was to do it. -We were near the top of the chimney. Further up, it became too narrow -for any human form to squeeze into. One had therefore to come out of it -to the right and climb up and over a huge bulging mass of rock about 15 -feet high, which overhung the precipice. This mass of gently bulging -rock was worn smooth by rain and stones. There was no proper foot-hold, -hardly the tiniest crack. <i>How</i><a name="page_188" id="page_188"></a> had Bettega managed it? I got up the -cold, damp chimney as far as I could, leant gasping against the rock, -and felt near the end of my courage. Tavernaro was stowed away yards -below, G—— also out of sight, Bettega invisible above. There was just -the cord, pulling me away from the inhospitable rocks, and at my very -heels an abyss of 2000 feet. I made one bold grab on the smooth wall, -but speedily retired to the end of the <i>camino</i>, and feebly yelled, -‘Wait! Ah, I can’t do it!’ ‘All right! Catch hold of this cord!’ came -the answer, and a loop of rope was let slowly down. I seized it, -contrived to get one foot on to a tiny, weeny point, came out of the -chimney, and heard Bettega call, ‘To the right, signorina!’ ‘To the -right; that’s all very well!’ I muttered fiercely, and felt my hand -slipping; my foot gave, my fingers ran down the rope, the cord round my -waist tightened, I pushed my arm through the loop of the free rope with -one last effort, and then finding no support of any kind for my feet, -was ignominiously pulled, kicking, up the precipice by Bettega, who, -firmly fixed with both feet against rocks, hauled me up most joyously -hand over hand.</p> - -<p>“‘But, Michele, how did <i>you</i> manage to get up?’ I panted, as I sank on -a ledge, and gazed in awed admiration at him. ‘Well, not like that, -signorina!’ he said, with his honest laugh; ‘I really came up<a name="page_189" id="page_189"></a> by -pressure. There are no hand-grips, so you have to do without.’ ‘It’s -marvellous! It’s stupendous!’ murmured I, really awed by the man’s -power. Then we both listened for Tavernaro’s coming, and a proper little -comedy, for us two at least, ensued. Of course one could see nothing, -the rock bulged too much, but one could hear Tavernaro’s voice some 20 -feet below, as he groped about, swearing softly. Five minutes went by -and all was still, so Bettega began haranguing him. ‘More to the right, -Tony; you must come out, don’t go too high in the chimney!’ Then—‘Look -out, Tony, I’ll send you the rope-end!’ But an ominous ‘<i>No</i>,’ quickly -answered this proposal. A guide’s honour is very sensitive on this -point. Another three or four minutes passed. ‘How is Tavernaro getting -on?’ I whispered, and Bettega replied, smiling broadly, ‘He wishes to -try.’</p> - -<p>“Some gasps from the direction of the chimney were now heard, and -Bettega again expostulated gently. ‘Look here, Tony, we are old friends; -take the rope!’ ‘<i>No</i>’ in gloomy defiance. ‘Oh, if we were alone it -would be different, but we must not keep the rest of the party waiting, -and the signorina may take cold.’ This was all in <i>patois</i>, but I caught -some of it, and here struck in quickly, ‘Oh, not at all!’ Bettega looked -surprised, and resumed more energetically his exhortations to Tony to -pocket<a name="page_190" id="page_190"></a> his pride and accept the loop of rope. At last Tony, who must -have been within 10 feet of the top and so at the worst spot, suddenly -jerked on to the proffered cord, and was up the next moment, hatless, -with huge beads of sweat on his forehead and his black hair as straight -as matches. There was a great rent in the side of one of his hands, -which bled profusely. What struck me most, however, was the expression -of suffering and shaken confidence on his face. Tavernaro ranks only -second to Bettega and Zecchini, and was asked to go to the Caucasus and -other distant mountains. He just stumbled to a safe spot, wrung his left -hand, and panted out, ‘Jesu Maria! it was cruel!’ I fear that Bettega’s -smile was more triumphant than sympathetic. Nevertheless, he enquired -kindly for Tavernaro’s hand, but for fully two minutes the latter’s -loquaciousness was lost. The look of anguish on his face meant, I think, -that he had seen death pretty near to him. He told us that he went far -too much into the crack on the left, and had remained sticking in it -till his hands got so cold he feared he would lose his grip. If he had, -he was lost, and probably G—— also, so he had actually held on with his -head and left his cap jammed in the crack. I called to G—— to hook the -rope over a point of rock in case Tavernaro fell, and this he had done, -but even<a name="page_191" id="page_191"></a> so the frightful jerk might have torn him down, and in any -case Tavernaro must have been either killed or frightfully hurt, as he -had, I should think, about 30 feet of rope out.</p> - -<p>“While I was in the throes of the difficult part, Papa’s cap fell off my -head, but Tavernaro caught it and brought it up. He was in an awful -state of mind about his own cap, which had his guide’s badge, etc., on -it, and begged me to call down to my brother about it. I did so, but -G—— replied several times with some asperity that he had enough to do -to get himself up. ‘Why can’t he bring it up in his mouth?’ cried -Tavernaro excitedly, and, in the end, G—— brought it in his belt.</p> - -<p>“My opinion is that both G—— and Tavernaro ran a great risk, and that -Tavernaro was fully aware of it, and, for a few minutes after, was not a -little shaken.</p> - -<p>“After half an hour at this notable spot Bettega resumed the ascent. ‘I -hope we shall have nothing more so difficult,’ I said eagerly, and -Bettega replied soothingly that it became ‘much less arduous,’ but the -chimney we were now in was gloomy and slippery, at best very sheer. The -guides had resumed their coats, which they had taken off for the bad -bit. At the end of the chimney we came to a high overhanging wall, at -the foot of which Tavernaro and I reposed, while Bettega climbed over it -and<a name="page_192" id="page_192"></a> disappeared. ‘Come!’ and I rose wearily. Bettega kept that cord -very tight on me, and it certainly, as Tavernaro afterwards said, -inclined to pull me to the right, away from the best holds, for the wall -was comparatively easy, though perpendicular, and I ought not to have -swung out quite free from it! But that is what I did. As I rose from the -second grip with the right hand, my muscles suddenly relaxed, I lost -hold, gave a sigh to signify ‘It’s no good!’ and swung clear out, -dangling over 2000 feet of precipice on a single cord which nearly cut -me in two. G—— and Tavernaro were much excited below, suddenly seeing -me appear hurtling overhead. Of course, in a moment, I swung in again, -grabbed afresh, and with terrific tightening of the rope from Bettega, -got up in no time. As I swung in the air, I remember G——, in a -curiously calm voice, asking, ‘Are you all right?’ and Tavernaro crying, -‘Don’t be afraid, signorina, it’s all right!’</p> - -<p>“Five minutes later we left the huge iron walls of rock, and emerged -suddenly on to the flat. Here one realised what breadth and width meant, -as opposed to height and profundity. In two seconds Bettega and I romped -to the top, where the cairn of stones marking the highest point rose, -and shaking hands heartily I gasped with intense feeling, ‘O Michele, -how grateful I am to you! Twice to-day I owe you my life!’ a debt he -utterly<a name="page_193" id="page_193"></a> disclaimed, remarking that whatever he had done was merely in -the day’s work, and that on him rested the responsibility of bringing us -up that way; as of course it did. Our porter was waiting for us on the -summit, and we sat down there, while Bettega and Tavernaro, still -looking impressed, knelt attentively to take off our light shoes and put -on our nailed boots instead.”</p> - -<p>The party descended by the ordinary route, a pleasant change after all -the difficult work they had accomplished during the upward climb.</p> - -<p>The foregoing account gives what is rare amongst the descriptions -beginners usually furnish of anything particularly hard they may have -undertaken, for the writer has obviously jotted down, within a few hours -of her return, an exact impression of how things struck her during the -day. It is refreshing to find some one who admits that at certain points -her courage nearly gave out, and at others that her guide had to assist -her with the rope, for we know that while the very best climbers have -had to train their nerves and muscles before they became what they are, -some of the very worst are most ready to exclaim that they never felt -fear or accepted assistance, and that a certain mountain up which they -were heaved like sacks of corn and let down like buckets in a well is “a -perfect swindle; any fool could go up it!” Unluckily, every fool does, -and<a name="page_194" id="page_194"></a> each one prepares the way for an appallingly increasing death-roll.</p> - -<p>The ascent of the Rosetta by the western face must not be condemned as -an imprudent expedition on the occasion just mentioned. True, there was -a novice in the party, but she was the only inexperienced member of it. -They had ample guiding power, they were properly equipped, and they had -good weather. Tavernaro had an offer of help at the critical moment, and -availed himself of it when he saw there was real danger. It will be -noticed that the four climbers were on two separate ropes. This is usual -in the Dolomites, but the majority of experienced mountaineers condemn -the practice even on rocks, while on snow it is positive madness. It was -owing to this, that, as related in the foregoing narrative, the lady’s -brother and Tavernaro ran a greater risk than was at all necessary.<a name="page_195" id="page_195"></a></p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:320px;"> -<a href="images/i_244a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_244a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_244a_sml.jpg" width="319" height="221" alt="A climbing party starting from Zermatt for the hut." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A climbing party starting from Zermatt for the hut.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:320px;"> -<a href="images/i_244c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_244c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_244c_sml.jpg" width="313" height="231" alt="The Gandegg Hut, near Zermatt." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Gandegg Hut, near Zermatt.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_244b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_244b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_244b_sml.jpg" width="328" height="211" alt="The Trift Hotel." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Trift Hotel.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_244d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_244d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_244d_sml.jpg" width="329" height="215" alt="The Zinal Rothhorn (to the right) from the Trift Valley. - -To face p. 195." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Zinal Rothhorn (to the right) from the Trift Valley. -<br /> -To face p. 195.</span> -</p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII<br /><br /> -<small>THE ZINAL ROTHHORN TWICE IN ONE DAY</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">I</span>GNORANCE of what the future has in store is often not a bad thing. Had -I realised that at the hour when we ought to have been at Zinal we -should be sitting—and for the second time in one day—on the top of the -Rothhorn, we should hardly have set out in so light-hearted a fashion -from the little inn in the Trift Valley, above Zermatt, at 4 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> on -14th September 1895.</p> - -<p>The party consisted of my two guides, Joseph and Roman Imboden, father -and son, and myself, and our idea was to cross the fine peak of the -Rothhorn, 13,855 feet high, from Zermatt to Zinal. I had been up that -mountain before, and so, on many previous occasions, had Imboden, but, -oddly enough, he had never been down the other side. Roman, however, had -once or twice made the traverse, and, in any case, we knew quite enough -about the route from hearsay to feel sure we could hit it off even -without Roman’s experience.</p> - -<p>Some fresh snow had fallen a few days previously,<a name="page_196" id="page_196"></a> and the slabby part -of the Rothhorn on the north side was unpleasantly white, besides which -there was a strong and bitterly cold wind. We pretty well abandoned all -idea of getting down on the other side when we saw how unfavourably -things were turning out, and though I felt greatly disappointed I never -have and never would urge a guide in whom I have confidence to undertake -what he considers imprudent. We left the matter open till the last -minute, however, and took both the knapsacks to the top, where we -arrived at 9.15.</p> - -<p>Warming ourselves in a sunny and sheltered corner of the by no means -inhospitable summit, we had some food and a pleasant rest. I cannot say -if the meal and the cheering effects of the sunshine made things look -different, but it is a fact that after, perhaps, an hour’s halt, Imboden -shouldered his knapsack and remarked to me, “Come along, ma’am, as far -as the end of the ridge; we will just have a look.” Hope awakened in me, -and scrambling to my feet I followed him. The wind was certainly high; I -had difficulty even on those easy rocks in keeping my footing; how, I -wondered, should we manage when the real climbing began? I had read of -an <i>arête</i> of rock, little broader than one of the blunt knives we had -used at breakfast, and the idea of passing along it with a shrieking -gale trying to tear us from our perch was not alluring. Presently<a name="page_197" id="page_197"></a> we -reached the spot where one quits the gentle slope and comparatively -broad ridge, and embarks on the profile of a slender and precipitous -face of rock, with nearly vertical forehead and small and infrequent -cracks for hands and feet. We were going to do more than look at it, -apparently; we were about to descend it, for without any further remark -Imboden began to get ready, letting Roman pass ahead. Taking hold of the -rope between his son and himself he told me to stand aside while he -gradually paid it out as Roman went down. The first yard or two -consisted of slabs, set at a high angle. Then the ridge abruptly curved -over and one saw nothing but air till the eye rested on the glacier -thousands of feet below. In a few minutes Roman had disappeared, and the -steady paying out of the rope alone indicated that he was climbing -downwards. After a time he reached almost the end of his tether of about -30 feet—for we were on a very long rope—and his father called out, -“Rope up!” “Let the lady come to the edge and give me a little more,” -came a voice from far down. Putting the final loop into my hand and -bidding me sit down, Imboden held me hard by the cord behind until the -tautness of the piece between Roman and me showed it was time to be -moving. I then advanced very cautiously to what seemed like the edge of -the world. Turning round with my face to the rock I had my first glance -below.<a name="page_198" id="page_198"></a> Far down was the top of Roman’s hat, and as he saw the advancing -soles of my boots he grinned with appreciation, feeling that now we -really were embarked on the enterprise. “There’s a good place down here, -ma’am, come along!” he called up, with one toe on a ledge 3 inches wide, -two fingers thrust into a crack, and the rope held out of his way by -being put, the remark concluded, between his teeth. I had no doubt it -was a nice place when one got there, but meanwhile I had to make the -best use I could of my eyes to find a suitable assortment of hand-and -foot-holes. Soon I, too, was clinging to the face of the precipice, and -Imboden was left above out of sight and before long almost out of -hearing. The wind here was far less trying as we were sheltered by the -topmost pinnacle of the mountain. To me the feeling of danger from a -gale on a rock peak is due even more to the difficulty of hearing what -one’s companions are saying than to the risk of one’s balance being -upset. It is extremely disconcerting, when a climber, descending steep -rocks and anxious to make a long but perhaps an easy step downwards to -good foot-hold, calls for more rope, and is promptly swung clear out -into space by an invisible guide above, who has misunderstood his -orders. When a party is accustomed to work together, this sort of thing -seldom happens, still it makes all the difference<a name="page_199" id="page_199"></a> in the pleasure of -negotiating difficult rocks if the air is calm.</p> - -<p>Our only trouble now was owing to the fresh snow, but this had partially -consolidated, and we got down steadily and safely, gradually leaving -behind the cold wind which whistled amongst the crags above.</p> - -<p>It was early in the day, and we went slowly, stopping once or twice to -photograph where warm and sheltered resting-places of comfortable -proportions tempted us to linger. The rocky knife edge was unpleasantly -sharp for the arms bent over it, but useful ledges down the side helped -to distribute the weight and amuse and occupy the mind. When finally we -reached the end of the rocks, and had nothing but snow between us and -the Mountet Hut, we considered ourselves as good as there, and made a -long halt on the last stones.</p> - -<p>We were wrong, however. “My boy, I will go ahead now,” remarked Imboden, -stepping off into the snow. He went a few paces, and then looked first -all round him and lastly at us. “<i>Blue ice!</i>” he muttered, with intense -disgust. “Blue ice right down to the bottom!” We shrugged our shoulders; -Imboden was ahead doing the work; we could afford to be philosophical. I -should not like to say how many strokes of the axe each step required, -but the slope was steep, a slip could not be risked, and Imboden hewed -out great foot-holds in the slippery<a name="page_200" id="page_200"></a> wall. After this had gone on for -some time he paused. “Upon my word,” remarked he, “it will take us the -rest of the day to get down at this rate! I shall try another way.” So -we turned and remounted the slope, and sitting down once more on the -stones, Imboden traced out a possible route down the face of the -mountain, bearing diagonally across it. It looked dullish; besides, -thought I, after all, we don’t particularly want to go to Zinal. Roman -put into words what, I think, sprung simultaneously into both our minds. -“Let us go back to Zermatt over the top of the Rothhorn again!” “Yes, -let us do that!” I exclaimed. Imboden gazed from one to the other of us -in amazement. “Go back over the top of the Rothhorn?” he repeated. “Why, -we should simply be out all night!” Roman didn’t answer, but his eyes -wandered persistently up the <i>arête</i>. His father now began to calculate, -and by some strange process of arithmetic he came to the conclusion that -if we hurried very much it was just possible that we might get off the -difficult part of the peak before night overtook us. Still, he was far -from reconciled to the idea, while every moment Roman and I liked it -better. Imboden saw how keen we were, and presently exclaimed: “Well, -I’ll go if you both want it, but we must be quick; if we spend the night -on the top of the Rothhorn and a storm comes on, we may simply lose our -lives!”<a name="page_201" id="page_201"></a> There was no need however, to tell Roman to be quick. He was -told off to lead, and I followed, with Imboden last. The memory of that -ascent has remained in my mind as a confused dream. Every scrap of my -attention was given to holding on and pulling myself upwards, never -pausing, except in the very worst places, to see what either of the -guides was doing, and, with every foot-and hand-hold fresh in my memory, -I was full of a delightful sense of security which muscles in -first-class condition and complete absence of any sensation of fatigue -fully justified. We rose at an incredible pace, and after an hour and -twenty-five minutes of splendid exercise, we threw ourselves once more -on the flat little top of the Rothhorn. We had now only the descent by -the ordinary route between us and Zermatt, and this seemed a small -matter compared to what we had accomplished that day.</p> - -<p>We did not remain long on the summit, and the first part of the descent -was quickly ended. We had now reached that point on the mountain where -it is necessary to leave the ridge and go down for some distance on the -precipitous north face. This bit of the climb, always requiring great -care on account of the smoothness and steepness of the rock, was on this -occasion particularly difficult because of the powdery snow which -covered everything, and the bitterly cold wind to which here, and, -luckily for us, here<a name="page_202" id="page_202"></a> only, we were exposed. The associations of these -slabs are not of a nature to reassure the timid climber. Many years ago, -in fact on the very first occasion when the Rothhorn was ascended from -the Zermatt side, a startling incident took place near this spot. The -party consisted of Messrs Dent and Passingham, with Alexander Burgener, -Ferdinand Imseng, and Franz Andermatten as guides, and they were -descending the mountain when the exciting occurrence described by Mr -Dent happened.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a> He has kindly allowed me to reprint his account.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_253a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_253a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_253a_sml.jpg" width="228" height="324" alt="The Zinal Rothhorn from the breakfast place on the -Wellenkuppe." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Zinal Rothhorn from the breakfast place on the -Wellenkuppe.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_253b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_253b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_253b_sml.jpg" width="235" height="321" alt="A steep face of rock. - -To face p. 202." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A steep face of rock.<br /> -To face p. 202.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_253c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_253c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_253c_sml.jpg" width="246" height="347" alt="The top of a Chamonix Aiguille. By Signor Cajrati -Crivelli Mesmer" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The top of a Chamonix Aiguille. By Signor Cajrati -Crivelli Mesmer</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_253d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_253d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_253d_sml.jpg" width="232" height="329" alt="“Leading strings.”" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">“Leading strings.”</span> -</p> - -<p>“Down the first portion of the steep rock slope we passed with great -caution, some of the blocks of stone being treacherously loose, or only -lightly frozen to the face. We had arrived at the most difficult part of -the whole climb, and at a rock passage which at that time we considered -was the nastiest we had ever encountered. The smooth, almost unbroken -face of the slope scarcely afforded any foot-hold, and our security -almost entirely depended on the rope we had laid down in our ascent. Had -not the rope been in position we should have varied our route, and no -doubt found a line of descent over this part much easier than the one we -actually made for, even without any help from the fixed cord. Imseng was -far below, working his way back to the <i>arête</i>, while the rest of the -party were holding on, moving but slowly, with their faces<a name="page_203" id="page_203"></a> to the -mountain. Suddenly I heard a shout from above; those below glanced up at -once: a large flat slab of rock, that had afforded us good hold in -ascending, but proved now to have been only frozen in to a shallow basin -of ice, had been dislodged by the slightest touch from one of the party -above, and was sliding down straight at us. It seemed an age, though the -stone could not have had to fall more than 10 feet or so, before it -reached us. Just above me it turned its course slightly; Franz, who was -just below, more in its direct line of descent, attempted to stop the -mass, but it ground his hands against the rock and swept by straight at -Imseng. A yell from us hardly awoke him to the danger; the slab slid on -faster and faster, but just as we expected to see our guide swept away, -the rock gave a bound for the first time, and as, with a startled -expression, he flung himself against the rock face, it leapt up, and, -flying by within a few inches of his head, thundered down below. A -moment or two of silence followed, and then a modified cheer from -Imseng, as subdued as that of a ‘super’ welcoming a theatrical king, -announced his safety, and he looked up at us with a serious expression -on his face. Franz’s escape had been a remarkably lucky one, but his -hands were badly cut about and bruised. In fact, it was a near thing for -all of us, and the mere recollection will still call up that odd sort of -thrill a man experiences on suddenly recollecting<a name="page_204" id="page_204"></a> at 11 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> that he -ought to have dined out that evening with some very particular people. -Had not the rock turned its course just before it reached Franz, and -bounded from the face of the mountain over Imseng’s head, one or more of -the party must unquestionably have been swept away. The place was rather -an exceptional one, and the rock glided a remarkably long distance -without a bound, but still the incident may serve to show that falling -stones are not a wholly imaginary danger.”</p> - -<p>A far more serious occurrence, however, took place on the north side of -the Rothhorn in 1894, involving the loss of a life, the rest of the -party escaping in a miraculous manner.</p> - -<p>I take my account of the disaster from <i>The Alpine Journal</i>.</p> - -<p>“On 20th September an accident occurred on the Zinal Rothhorn, in which -Joseph Marie Biner, a well-known Zermatt guide, lost his life. The other -members of the party were Dr Peter Horrocks and Peter Perren, both of -whom are to be congratulated on their very narrow escape. The party had -already effected the ascent of the mountain, and were descending towards -Zermatt. On reaching the well-known <i>Blatte</i> overlooking the Durand -Glacier, the usual precautions were observed. Biner, who was leading, -crossed the awkward slab, and planted himself firmly on the opposite -side. Perren, who was<a name="page_205" id="page_205"></a> last, was standing behind and holding on to a -fair-sized rock, round which he was paying out the rope; while Dr -Horrocks crossed the slab, and Biner gradually pulled in the slack. -Suddenly, the rock in which Perren placed such confidence came out, and -bounded down the mountain side. Perren slid rapidly down the steep -rocks; Dr Horrocks, who had no foot-hold and very little hand-hold, was -jerked from his position, turning a somersault, and becoming momentarily -stunned from his head striking against the rock. The strain on the rope -was too great for Biner to withstand, and he was dragged down too. The -whole party half tumbled, half slid, down the very steep smooth rocks -for 30 feet or 40 feet, when the rope between Dr Horrocks and Perren -caught behind a projecting rock, and brought them both to a standstill. -Perren found himself landed in a small patch of soft snow some 15 feet -below the rock, which had so fortunately engaged the rope, while Dr -Horrocks, some 7 feet higher up, though at first suspended with his back -to the steep rocks, was very soon able to get more or less foot-hold. -Poor Biner had the extra length of his own rope still to fall, and, when -the strain came, the rope broke, according to one account, half-way -between him and Dr Horrocks; according to another, rather nearer to the -latter. Biner fell down on to the Durand Glacier, some 2000 feet below, -whence<a name="page_206" id="page_206"></a> his mutilated body was recovered by a search party which crossed -the Trift Pass, carried the body down to Zinal, and so by road and train -brought it to Zermatt, where the funeral took place. Dr Horrocks and -Perren were rescued from their dangerous position some ten or twelve -minutes after the accident occurred, by the guides Emile Gentinetta and -Edouard Julen, who were following down the mountain with another party.”</p> - -<p>To return to ourselves. We steadily progressed down the cold and snowy -face, with rope kept taut and paid out slowly as, one by one, we moved -lower. I need not follow our climb, which was without incident, and -while it was still daylight, we reached the snow ridge, on the stones -just below, which in ascending it is usual to pause for breakfast. We -were particularly anxious to be off the stony rocks below and to gain -the little glacier and pass over the moraine before dark, but this we -could not manage, so in spite of our lantern we wandered about on those -odious rocks for hours before we found the gully by which alone it is -possible to get off them. Our various attempts entailed the descent of -slippery chimneys leading to the top of black precipices, with nothing -to be done but scramble up again, merely to embark in other chimneys -with precisely similar consequences. I got so sick of the whole thing -that I would gladly have<a name="page_207" id="page_207"></a> dozed under a rock and awaited daylight. The -guides, however, stuck to the business, and after a positive nightmare -of gullies they at last hit off the right and only one. I have seldom -felt greater satisfaction than when I stepped off those detestable rocks -on to the snow, shimmering beneath our feet in the starlight. We had now -only to cross the glacier and make our way down an exceedingly steep but -well-defined foot-path over the sharply-crested moraine. Once we had -left this behind us we had nothing more than grass-slopes between us and -the Trift Inn. As soon as we reached this final stage in our day’s work, -we selected the most comfortable-looking hollow, and hanging the lantern -to an axe stuck upright in the ground, we prepared, at a somewhat -unorthodox hour and within only thirty minutes of the hotel, to enjoy a -well-earned meal.<a name="page_208" id="page_208"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII<br /><br /> -<small>BENIGHTED ON A SNOW PEAK</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">I</span>N a most interesting account of a mountain adventure which, by the -courtesy of the writer, Sir H. Seymour King, I am enabled to reprint -from <i>The Alpine Journal</i>, we are once more reminded that a party of -thoroughly competent and robust mountaineers can come without evil -after-effects out of a night of great hardship which would have -undoubtedly proved fatal to ill-equipped and inexperienced amateurs and -guides, such as those accompanying Mr Burckhardt, who perished from -exposure on the Matterhorn.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p> - -<p>After describing a previous ascent, Sir H. Seymour King goes on to say:</p> - -<p>“A few days later we went to Mürren, with the intention of carrying out -a long-cherished plan of mine and testing the possibility of ascending -the Silberhorn from the Roththal. Previous ascents had proved so -lengthy, necessitating, I think, in nearly every case, the passing of a -night on the rocks or<a name="page_209" id="page_209"></a> the glacier, that I thought it would be highly -desirable if some shorter route could be discovered. I had an idea that -the route by the western <i>arête</i> would prove to be the one sought for. -Unfortunately, we were delayed in making an attempt by bad weather until -the 23rd of September, which is undoubtedly too late in the year for so -difficult an expedition.</p> - -<p>“I left the Hôtel Silberhorn with Ambrose Supersax and Louis Zurbrücken -as guides, and a porter, at ten o’clock on the morning of the 23rd of -September, and followed for some distance the usual path to the Jungfrau -Hut; at length, leaving the Roththal path on the right, we struck off -into a goat track, which leads by narrow ledges round the shoulder of -the great bluffs forming the northern boundary of the Roththal. In this -way gaining the face of the alp fronting Mürren, we made our way to the -base of the ‘Strahlplatten,’ where we had determined to encamp for the -night.</p> - -<p>“The nights were already lengthening out, and where we were it was not -light before six, and it was not possible to move earlier than five; -punctually at that hour we started. We took only one knapsack with us, -leaving the rest of the things with the porter, whom we instructed to -stay where he was until he saw whether we were going to return the same -way or not, as we thought it was quite possible we might have to pass -another night at the same place. We<a name="page_210" id="page_210"></a> therefore arranged with him that -when we got to a certain point on the ridge, if we intended to return, -we would wave our hats; but if we made no sign, he might pack up his -things and go home, as in that case he might understand that we had -determined either to descend from the Silberhorn across the glacier to -the Wengern Alp, or else make our way over the Jungfrau, and pass the -night in the Bergli Hut.</p> - -<p>“Now let me try for a moment to describe the appearance of the rock face -up which we purposed making our way on to the <i>arête</i>. From where we -were the <i>arête</i> appeared to run nearly due east and west. At the west -it terminated in the precipices which face Mürren, and at the east with -the peak whence we had arranged to signal to our porter. From this peak -a ridge descended towards the valley bounding the side facing us. On -that side the rock face itself was divided into two compartments by a -well-marked ridge running down the middle, giving the appearance of two -couloirs leading to the <i>arête</i>; the whole side was composed of -extremely smooth rocks, with very little foot-hold or hand-hold which -would be extremely dangerous, if not impossible, to attempt, if they -were not dry. Fortunately, we found them perfectly free from either -water or ice, and, with the exception of one difficult piece, which it -took us some little time to<a name="page_211" id="page_211"></a> surmount, we found nothing to check us -until we were just under the <i>arête</i>. We ascended by the right-hand -couloir, if I may so term it, and then made for the gap on the ridge at -the extreme westerly end. Just below this gap we experienced some -difficulty, owing to the excessive smoothness of the rocks, but finally -reached the gap I have mentioned a little before nine.</p> - -<p>“I need not say that our hopes rose high, and that we were in the very -best of spirits, and when we finally stood in the gap itself we began to -think the worst part of the work was over. We soon found, however, that -it had hardly begun; it was all very well being in the gap, but the -problem was how to get from there on to the <i>arête</i> itself; for, though -the latter was not more than 20 feet above us, the peculiar formation of -the rocks rendered every attempt to get on to it fruitless. The rocks -hung over on every side. We exhausted ourselves in vain attempts to -surmount them. An hour soon passed away, and after each of us in turn -had failed, we sat down disconsolately to consider the situation under -the lee of the ridge, so as to be out of the way of the biting north -wind which was blowing. Looking round as we sat mournfully consuming -some breakfast, I spied a bottle in a crevice, and found it contained -the names of Mr C. E. Matthews and<a name="page_212" id="page_212"></a> Herr E. von Fellenberg, with -Melchior Anderegg and two other guides; it was undated, but recounted -how they had reached this spot and had been obliged to return without -achieving their object, which apparently was identical with our own. -This was the last straw, and exasperated Ambrose to the highest degree. -That we should have gone through so much only to have gained the same -spot where another party several years before had arrived was too much -for his equanimity. He vowed he would never go back, and nothing under -heaven should turn him back, he would get on to the ridge. We might do -as we liked, he meant to stay there until he had. All of which I pointed -out to him was very fine talk, but, as men were at present constructed, -it did not appear to me possible to climb an acute angle. Ambrose, -however, persisted that he would make another attempt to get on to the -ridge, and, as it was quite hopeless anywhere on the side by which we -had ascended, he roped himself, and insisted on being let down the -northern face of the mountain.</p> - -<p>“With great skill he managed to work himself along the face for the full -length of the rope, and the first 100 feet being exhausted, a second of -80 feet was tied to it, and this again paid out to its utmost length; -still he could find no way up to the ridge. He thereupon demanded that -the<a name="page_213" id="page_213"></a> rope should be let go, and, in spite of our remonstrances at the -danger he was running, he pulled it in, slung it on his back, and -proceeded, while we sat down and waited with no little anxiety lest some -accident should befall him.</p> - -<p>“For half an hour we neither saw nor heard anything of him, and our -shouts remained unanswered. Zurbrücken muttered at intervals something -about ‘Dummheit,’ and was evidently very uneasy. Suddenly we heard a -shout from above, which told us he had succeeded in ascending the wall -above him, and getting on to the ridge, down which he was actually -coming at the moment, and the next minute he was peering over the point -where we had been stuck.</p> - -<p>“It was really a magnificent exhibition both of pluck and skill, and -Ambrose deserves the highest credit for his success. Letting the rope -over, and fastening it well to a piece of rock, he first hauled up the -ice axes and knapsacks, and then we each in turn were half hauled, and -half climbed to the place where he stood. I know when I arrived at the -top I was nearly speechless from the terrible exertion it was necessary -to make, and the pressure of the rope on my ribs; I could only lie on my -back and gasp feebly for brandy!</p> - -<p>“However, it was imperative to proceed; more than two hours had been -wasted here, and it was<a name="page_214" id="page_214"></a> nearly eleven o’clock. The way in front of us -looked fairly plain and easy, and our hopes once again began to rise; -but soon, as we proceeded along the ridge, it became narrower and -narrower, until from walking we were reduced to kneeling, and at last -could only proceed <i>à cheval</i>; in this elegant position we struggled -along for some little distance, until the <i>arête</i> widening out again -permitted us once more to stand up; but here we found the rocks much -more difficult, and finally absolutely impossible. At the foot of the -peak at the easterly end of the ridge which I have before mentioned we -were forced off the <i>arête</i> on to a wall of ice which led to the summit; -the slope was at a very sharp angle, the ice very hard and blue, and at -last became so steep that we were forced back on to the rocks, and with -some considerable difficulty reached the summit; from there we could see -the Silberhorn in front of us jutting out like a great white promontory -into a frozen sea. It being then one o’clock, we saw there was no -possibility of our getting back the same way that evening, so we made no -sign to our porter, whom we could see watching us far down below.</p> - -<p>“The formation of the ridge here is somewhat curious. After a slight -descent it broadens out into a small and much crevassed glacier, shut in -on the further side by a level snow wall, the promontory<a name="page_215" id="page_215"></a> which I have -mentioned above. The <i>arête</i> of this wall appears to run level from the -rock ridge to its northern termination; indeed, I am of opinion that the -highest point is on the rock ridge itself, and that the extreme end of -the ridge facing the Wengern Alp is a few feet lower than the rocks -overlooking the Roththal.</p> - -<p>“We speedily crossed the little intervening glacier, or snow-field, and -commenced to ascend diagonally the snow wall, but found the snow in such -a dangerous condition, lying as it was loosely on the surface of ice, -that from the fear of starting an avalanche we once more made our way -back to the ridge which formed the continuation of the <i>arête</i> along -which we had been climbing. Here the rocks were extremely difficult, -being interspersed with ice and very rotten. I think this was one of the -most difficult parts of the expedition. It was half-past three when we -reached the final summit, and then made our way along the snow ridge -nearly to its extremity. The snow <i>arête</i> was very narrow, and in its -then condition not very pleasant to traverse; the day too was far -advanced, and we had no time to spend in much exploration, so we -returned as quickly as we could to the ridge which leads down to the -Silberlücke; we were already getting very doubtful as to whether we -should get any shelter for the night. We had reached the narrow rock -<i>arête</i> joining the<a name="page_216" id="page_216"></a> Silberhorn with the precipices of the Jungfrau; in -the middle was the narrow gap called the Silberlücke, and to that we -crawled down and halted a moment to consider whether it would not be -better to descend on to the glacier and strike across to the Wengern -Alp; but we knew from the results of previous expeditions that crossing -the glacier would probably take four, if not five hours. None of us had -ever been across it; it was then four o’clock, and it would be dark at -six. Our only hope lay in getting across the Jungfrau before the -daylight finally died out. In the gap we found a ladder left by some -previous explorer, and two or three pieces of wood; and after debating -whether we had not better pass the night there, finally decided to push -on for the Jungfrau.</p> - -<p>“Our chance of escaping a night in the open air depended mainly on two -points: first, whether the snow leading to the Jungfrau was in fairly -good condition; and, secondly, whether anybody whose steps we could make -use of for descending had been on the mountain that day. A few minutes -settled the first question; we found that the slopes leading up to the -upper snow-field which circles round the base of the Jungfrau were hard -as ice, and we were soon laboriously cutting steps upwards. We pushed on -with all speed, but step-cutting is at the best a slow operation, and -before we got into the Roththal track the lengthening shadows had almost -overtaken us.<a name="page_217" id="page_217"></a> We hurried on and managed to get across the <i>bergschrund</i> -before the last rays of sunlight left the summit of the Jungfrau. As we -surmounted the final rocks I turned for a minute to look across -Switzerland, and was rewarded by one of the most beautiful spectacles it -has ever been my good fortune to witness. The valleys were filled with -mist, but the setting sun tinged their surface with a deep crimson glow; -the last rays were still lingering round Mont Blanc and one or two of -the higher mountains; where we stood was still filled with golden light -from the last rays of the sinking sun. The sky was perfectly clear, and -the panorama which unrolled itself before our eyes with its mingled -light and shadow was one of the most wonderful that lover of mountain -scenery could desire to gaze on. A justification for the erection of a -hut on the summit of the Jungfrau might almost be found in the -possibility of obtaining such a view.</p> - -<p>“But we had no time for indulging in rhapsodies; a bitter north wind was -still blowing so keenly, that the upper leather of our boots had frozen -stiff as boards while we walked. The moon was well up, and if only our -second hope were realised, and some one had been on the mountain that -day, we might find a refuge from the wind in the Bergli or Concordia -Huts. We tumbled rather than scrambled down the rocks by the flickering -moonlight, until<a name="page_218" id="page_218"></a> we reached the well-known point where it is necessary -to strike across the face just above the Roththal Sattel. Our last hope -was dashed to the ground. No one had been there that day, and if we were -to get down it must be by our own efforts. So Ambrose at once set to -work to cut steps across the face. We had been there a fortnight before, -and gone up and down the Jungfrau without cutting hardly a step; now the -face was all blue ice, and in five minutes I made up my mind that the -risk of such a descent was too much to take.</p> - -<p>“The wall above the great <i>bergschrund</i> was in shadow, the <i>bergschrund</i> -last year was especially formidable, and we were all too exhausted -safely to face the freezing wind on such a steep ice-slope in the dark. -We returned, therefore, to the rocks, and, after a brief consultation, -decided to pass the night there as best we could. We managed to find a -corner shut in on two sides by rock about 5 feet high, from the floor of -which we set to work to rake out the snow with our axes. The snow had -drifted to a considerable depth, and its excavation gave us a good -quantity of heat to start the night with, but our boots refused to thaw, -and do what we would our feet would not get warm.</p> - -<p>“Our provisions being nearly exhausted, we agreed only to take a -mouthful of brandy and a little bread that night, and keep the bulk of -the provisions until<a name="page_219" id="page_219"></a> next morning, when we expected to be in a more or -less exhausted condition, as the cold was very great, and it was obvious -that we had a pretty severe ordeal before us. It was by this time -half-past seven o’clock. We put on our gloves and gaiters, buttoned up -our coats, and after making a seat apiece out of three smooth stones, -sat down as close together as we could, and commenced to smoke.</p> - -<p>“The night was beautifully clear, but far away to the south we could see -a great thunderstorm raging over the Italian hills, and were in no -little trepidation lest it should be coming up in our direction, as -indeed a storm had done in exactly a similar way a week before; but the -north wind kept it at bay, and we luckily had not a snow-storm to face -in addition to the other discomforts.</p> - -<p>“The night passed slowly enough; it was necessary to keep shuffling our -feet and beating our arms together the whole night long without -cessation, in order to prevent being frost-bitten, and it was even more -difficult to keep awake. The hours, however, passed somehow, and at -half-past four the first primrose streaks in the sky heralded the coming -day. By five o’clock the welcome face of the sun peeped over the -Trugberg, and we began to prepare for a start.</p> - -<p>“Our first thought was breakfast, but this solace was denied us; the -wine and brandy had frozen<a name="page_220" id="page_220"></a> during the night, and were solid lumps of -ice; the bread required nothing less than an ice-axe to cut it, and then -probably would have flown into chips like a log of wood; the three -remaining eggs we possessed had been converted during the night into -icicles; there was nothing for it, therefore, but to start hungry and -thirsty. Ambrose proposed that he and Zurbrücken should first cut the -steps, and then come back for me, but after a very few minutes’ exposure -to the wind they were obliged to return and wait until the sun had -warmed them a little, the biting cold of the night and exhaustion from -want of sleep rendered it impossible to face the work of step-cutting in -such a bitter wind. We resumed our seats, therefore, and waited another -hour, and then commenced our descent to the <i>bergschrund</i>. We had to cut -steps the whole way down, and very glad I was we had not attempted it in -the dark, as I think it would have been almost impossible to get over -without an accident.</p> - -<p>“We pushed on steadily, but the night had taken all the spurt out of us, -and our progress across the Jungfrau Firn was not very rapid. We hoped -to find water under the Mönch Joch, where we had found a good supply a -fortnight previously, but the wind had prevented the snow melting at the -time we reached the spot, and there was nothing for it but to press on -to Grindelwald, and it was not until<a name="page_221" id="page_221"></a> we reached the end of the Viescher -Glacier that we found any water to drink. At the Bäregg we got some -ginger nuts to eat, and by three o’clock in the afternoon were being -hospitably welcomed by the Bosses at the ‘Bär,’ whose welcome was never -more appreciated. These estimable hosts soon had an excellent dinner -ready, and by half-past four I was driving to Interlaken to rejoin the -rest of my party.”<a name="page_222" id="page_222"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV<br /><br /> -<small>THE STORY OF A BIG JUMP</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HROUGH the kindness of Dr Kennedy, I am enabled to reprint from his new -edition of <i>The Alps in 1864</i>, by the late Mr A. W. Moore, an admirable -account of the first passage of the Col de la Pilatte in Dauphiné. This -expedition has become classical, thanks to Mr Whymper’s fine description -of it,<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> so it is interesting to read what impression the adventures of -the day made on another member of the party. The first part of the -expedition was easy, but, wrote Mr Moore, “before getting near the foot -of the couloir, we had something to do in threading a way up and through -the huge chasms into which the glacier was broken. Croz was here -thoroughly in his element, and led the way with great skill and -determination, passing one obstacle after another, and bearing gradually -to the left towards the enemy. At every step we took, it became more -apparent that nature had never intended any one to pass this way, and -had accordingly<a name="page_223" id="page_223"></a> taken more than usual pains to render the approach to -the couloir difficult and dangerous. Below the highest <i>bergschrund</i> -were a series of smaller ones, arranged systematically one above the -other, stretching completely across a very steep slope, so that they -could not be turned, but must each in succession be attacked <i>en face</i>. -Fortunately at this early period of the season, and with so much snow, -the difficulty was less considerable than it would have been under other -circumstances, and, exercising every precaution, we finally passed the -last of the outer lines of defence, and had nothing but a short steep -slope between us and the final <i>schrund</i>, above which the couloir rose -more unfriendly than ever, as we approached it nearer. I had been sorely -puzzled in my mind how we were going to get across this chasm, as from -below it appeared to have a uniform width of about 10 feet, the upper -edge, as usual, much higher than the lower, and no visible bridge at any -point. On getting up to it, however, we found that on the extreme right -it had been choked by a considerable mass of snow, the small remains of -which at one point formed a narrow, rotten, and most insecure bridge, -over which Croz cautiously passed, and made himself firm in the soft -snow above. Walker, Whymper, Mons. Renaud, myself, and Almer, then -followed, as if we were treading on eggs, and all got safely over, much<a name="page_224" id="page_224"></a> -to our relief, as there really appeared no small chance of the bridge -going to grief before we were all across, which would have been awkward -for those on the wrong side.</p> - -<p>“It was just 9.30 when we fairly took to this extraordinary gully, -which, above the <i>bergschrund</i> was certainly not more than 12 feet wide, -and gradually narrowed in its upward course. For the first few steps we -trod in a sufficiency of soft snow in good condition, but, to our -dismay, this soon sensibly diminished both in quantity and quality, -until at last there was nothing but the old, disgusting, powdery snow -resting on hard ice. The axe accordingly came into play; but if steps -were cut of the ordinary size, we should never get to the top till -night, so Croz just hacked out sufficient space for the feet to cling -to, and worked away as fast as possible, cautioning us emphatically to -look out, and to hold on well with our axes while each step was being -cut. Another argument in favour of rapid progress arose from the -palpable danger in which we were. The centre of the couloir was occupied -by a deeply-scored trough, evidently a channel for stones and -avalanches, while the space on either side was so narrow that in case of -a large fall we could scarcely expect to escape unharmed. Looking up to -see what was likely to come down, we discovered at the very head of the -couloir a perpendicular or slightly overhanging<a name="page_225" id="page_225"></a> wall of <i>névé</i>, some 30 -feet in height, and lower down, projecting over the rocks on our left, -an enormous mass of icicles, on which the sun was playing, and, of -course, momentarily loosening their tenure to the rocks. At the moment -we were exactly in the line which they must follow, if they fell, as -they evidently would before long, so we lost no time in crossing the -stone channel to the other side, where the great mass was scarcely -likely to come, and we might probably ward off any stray fragments. I -received a lively hint as to the effect of a <i>large</i> mass of ice coming -suddenly down on one’s head, by the effect of a blow from a -comparatively small piece, which Croz hewed out from one of the steps. -Being so far down in the line, it had time to gain momentum before it -struck me, which it did on the head with such violence that for a few -moments I felt quite sick and stupid. The incident will give a very good -idea of the steepness of the slope on which we were. I had too much to -think of to measure it with a clinometer, but it was certainly steeper -than any part of the couloir leading to the Col des Ecrins, the greatest -inclination of which was 54°. At one point a little water trickled over -the rocks, which the two front men managed to get a suck at, but those -behind were out of reach, and the footing was too precarious for more -than a minute’s halt, not to mention occasional volleys of<a name="page_226" id="page_226"></a> small stones -which shot by us, and might be the precursors of large ones. I don’t -think that I ever experienced a greater feeling of insecurity than -during the whole of this ascent, which was unavoidably long. What with -the extreme steepness of the slope, and the necessary vagueness of the -steps, which were made additionally unsafe by the powdery snow which -filled them up as soon as they were cut, I felt that a slip was a by no -means unlikely contingency, and was glad enough upon occasions to find -Almer’s hand behind, giving me a friendly push whenever a particularly -long stride had to be made. When we were nearing the top, our attention -was attracted by a tremendous uproar behind us, and, looking round, we -were just in time to see a prodigious avalanche falling over the cliffs -of the Pic de Bonvoisin, on the other side of the valley. It was at -least a quarter of a mile in length, and many minutes elapsed before the -last echoes of its fall died away. We were now so near the great -snow-wall that it was time to begin to circumvent it; so, crossing the -couloir again, we clambered up the rocks on that side in order to get -out of it, hoping to be able from them to get on to the main ridge to -the left of the wall, which itself was quite impassable. As Almer had -expected, the snow was here very thin over the rocks, and what little -there was, was converted into ice, so that the climbing<a name="page_227" id="page_227"></a> was most -difficult and perilous, and we had no small trouble to get on at all. -However, we managed to scramble up, and found ourselves overlooking a -gully running parallel, and of a similar character, to the one we had -been ascending, but free from snow and ice, and much more precipitous. -On our side it was quite impossible to get on to the main ridge as an -impracticable rock rose above our heads, and it was, therefore, -necessary to step across this second couloir. I never made a nastier -step; the stride was exceedingly long, there was nothing in particular -to stand on, and nothing at all but a smooth face of rock to hold on by, -so that we had literally to trust to the natural adhesiveness of our -hands. Fortunately, there was sufficient rope to allow the man in front -to cross and get on to the main ridge, and make himself fast before his -successor followed, so we attacked the difficulty in turn. I got over -somehow, but did not like it at all; lifted myself on to the ridge, -Almer followed, and at 10.45 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, the Col was gained.</p> - -<p>“During our ascent of the couloir, the weather, though doubtful, had not -been unfavourable, but, just as we got on to the ridge, a cloud swooped -down, and enveloped us in its dense folds, and at the same moment it -began to snow violently. Luckily Croz, who was first on the top, had -been able to satisfy himself that we <i>were</i> above the<a name="page_228" id="page_228"></a> Glacier de la -Pilatte, and got a glimpse of what lay between us and it; but the state -of the atmosphere was, nevertheless, sufficiently disappointing, as we -were unable to fix with accuracy the exact position of our gap with -reference to the peak of Les Bans, and the highest point of the Boeufs -Rouges, or to determine its height. From the Brèche de la Meije, we had -seen clearly that we were then considerably lower than any point on the -ridge south of the Glacier de la Pilatte, and, taking this into -consideration, together with the apparent height of our gap, seen from -the valley below, we estimated the height of the Col, which we proposed -to call Col de la Pilatte, at about 11,500 feet. It is certainly not -much below this, and is, therefore, probably the highest pass yet -effected in the Dauphiné Alps.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/i_283a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_283a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_283a_sml.jpg" width="257" height="332" alt="A very tame Bergschrund. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A very tame Bergschrund.<br /> By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/i_283b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_283b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_283b_sml.jpg" width="261" height="333" alt="Homeward over the snow-slopes." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Homeward over the snow-slopes.</span> -</p> - -<p>“It was no less provoking to have missed the view of the Ecrins and -Ailefroide, which we had expected to be particularly fine. But there was -no help for it, and no prospect of immediate improvement; so, without -halting for a minute, we commenced the descent in the same order as -before. All we could see was a steep ice-wall, stretching downwards from -our feet, the actual ridge not being more than a couple of feet wide. -What was the length of the wall, or what lay below it, we could not -discover, but had a shrewd suspicion that we should anyhow find<a name="page_229" id="page_229"></a> a -considerable <i>bergschrund</i>. Croz steered to the left, and began cutting -steps diagonally downwards. The snow was in a much worse condition than -it had been in the couloir; there was more of it, but it was so -exceedingly soft, that our feet pressed through it to the hard ice, as -though it had been water, and we were very rarely able to trust to it -without cutting a step. We should have been better pleased had there -been no snow at all, as the whole slope, the angle of which was about -50°, was in just the proper condition for an avalanche. I never saw -Almer so nervous, and with reason; for, as he himself said, while he -implored us not to move from one step into another before we felt that -one foot at least was secured, this was just one of those places where -no amount of skill on the part of Croz or himself could entirely prevent -the chance of a serious accident. It was a wonder how we did manage to -stick to some of the steps, the objectionable character of which was -increased from their being cut along the side of the slope, a position -in which it is always more difficult to get from one to the other than -when they are cut straight up or down. As we got lower down there was -more snow, which, though softer than ever, was so steep that we could -tread tolerably secure steps on it, by help of which we worked down, -until we found ourselves brought up short on the upper edge of the -expected <i>bergschrund</i>. Croz had hoped to hit this at a point<a name="page_230" id="page_230"></a> where it -was partially choked, but he was disappointed, as the chasm yawned below -us, entirely unbridged. A glance right and left showed that there was no -more assailable point within reach, so Croz gave out the unwelcome -intelligence that if we wished to get over we must jump and take our -chance. The obstacle appeared to be about 10 feet wide, of uncomfortable -depth, and the drop from the upper to the lower edge about 15 feet. From -the lower edge the glacier sloped away, only less steep than the wall on -which we were, of which it was a continuation, but cut off by this -sudden break. There was, however, so much soft snow that we should fall -easy, and the only difficulty, therefore, was to take a sufficiently -fair spring to clear the chasm; for, good as I believed my rope to be, I -should have been sorry to see any one suspended by it, with a sudden -jerk, over such a gulf as that we had beneath us. Walker was untied, so -as to give rope enough to Croz, who then boldly sprung over, and landed -heavily on the lower edge in the snow, where he stood to receive the -rest of the party. Walker followed, and then Whymper, leaving Mons. -Renaud, myself, and Almer above. Mons. Renaud advanced to the edge, -looked, hesitated, drew back, and finally declared that he could not -jump it; he felt perfectly convinced that he should be unable to clear -the distance, and should jump in instead of over. We<a name="page_231" id="page_231"></a> encouraged him, -but without effect, and at last proposed to lower him down, when the -others would hook hold of his legs somehow and pull him across. Almer -and I, therefore, made our footing as secure as possible, anchored -ourselves with our axes, and made all ready to lower our friend, but his -courage failed him at the last moment, and he refused to go. We were now -obliged to use stronger arguments, as it was snowing fast, and time was -passing, so we pointed out that, if we wished to return ever so much, we -could not get the others back across the <i>schrund</i>, and that, in point -of fact, there was no chance—over he <i>must</i> go. Again did he advance to -the edge, again draw back, but finally, with a despairing groan, leaped, -and just landed clear of the chasm, but, instead of letting his rope -hang loose, he held it in one hand, and thereby nearly pulled me over -head foremost. Then came my turn, and I must confess that, when I stood -in the last step from which I had to spring, I did not like the look of -the place at all, and, in fact, felt undeniably nervous. But I had not -been one of the least backward in objurgating Mons. Renaud, so felt -constrained to manifest no hesitation myself, whatever might be my -private feelings. I, therefore, threw over my axe and spectacles, -gathered myself up, and took the leap. The sensation was most peculiar. -I had not the faintest idea whether I should or should not clear the -chasm, but the doubt was soon solved<a name="page_232" id="page_232"></a> by my landing heavily on the -further side, rather to the right of the rest of the party. The heavy -load on my back sent me forwards on my face, and I shot down the slope -with tremendous velocity, head foremost, until I was suddenly stopped by -the tightening round my waist of the rope, the other end of which was -held by Almer above. My first impression was, that half my ribs were -crushed in; as it was, my wind was so completely bagged by the severity -of the jerk that I could not speak, but laughed hysterically, until -nature’s bellows had replenished my unlucky carcass. The incident was so -far satisfactory that it showed the enormous strength of the rope, and -also how severe a shock a man like Almer, standing in a most insecure -position, can bear unmoved when he is prepared for it. My weight, -unloaded, is 10½ stone, and the strain on the rope was certainly nearly -as great as though I <i>had</i> jumped into the crevasse. Almer now followed -us over, and at 11.35 we were all together without accident below the -<i>schrund</i>, which, with the wall above it, was as ugly-looking a place as -I would wish to see.</p> - -<p>“We now floundered down the slope of soft snow, without taking much -care, as we imagined that henceforward it was all plain sailing, but -were abruptly checked in our pace by coming upon a huge crevasse, of -great length and breadth, but covered over in<a name="page_233" id="page_233"></a> places. Several attempts -were made to cross at one of these points, but without success, as the -breadth was too great, and the snow unsubstantial in the extreme, and a -long <i>détour</i> was necessary before we were able to get over near its -eastern extremity. This proved to be the beginning of a new series of -troubles, as the chasms became more and more numerous and complicated, -until the slope which we had imagined would be so easy, resolved itself -into a wall of gigantic <i>séracs</i>, the passage of which tasked our -energies to the utmost. The difficulty of the position was increased by -our still being enveloped in a mist so thick that we could not see a -distance of 20 feet below us, and were in a happy state of ignorance as -to whether we were steering properly, or were only plunging deeper into -the mire. Nothing, however, could exceed the energy and skill with which -Croz threaded his way through the labyrinth which surrounded us. He -never once had to retrace his steps, but, cutting along the sides of -some crevasses and underneath others, he steadily gained ground. In -spite of the generally deep snow, a good deal of step-cutting was -necessary here and there, and we had nearly an hour of most exciting -work before the inclination of the glacier diminished, and at 12.30 -<span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, for the first time since leaving the Col, we stood at ease upon a -flat plain of snow. But how long would it last? A fog on an unknown -glacier<a name="page_234" id="page_234"></a> always suggests to my desponding mind the probability of -marching round and round in a circle, and finally having to pass the -night in a crevasse, so that I, personally, was particularly relieved -when, just as we emerged from the <i>séracs</i>, the mist suddenly lifted -sufficiently to let us see a long way over the glacier in front, which -displayed itself to our admiring eyes perfectly level and -uncrevassed.”<a name="page_235" id="page_235"></a></p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_290a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_290a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_290a_sml.jpg" width="325" height="222" alt="The Ecrins from the summit of the Grande Ruine." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Ecrins from the summit of the Grande Ruine.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_290c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_290c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_290c_sml.jpg" width="334" height="230" alt="Clouds breaking like a giant waterfall on a mountain -ridge." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Clouds breaking like a giant waterfall on a mountain -ridge.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_290b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_290b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_290b_sml.jpg" width="328" height="192" alt="The summit of the Jungfrau. (P. 217.) - -To face p. 235." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The summit of the Jungfrau. (P. 217.) -<br /> -To face p. 235.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_290d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_290d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_290d_sml.jpg" width="312" height="220" alt="Snow (not cloud) blown by a terrific wind from a mountain -ridge." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Snow (not cloud) blown by a terrific wind from a mountain -ridge.</span> -</p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV<br /><br /> -<small>A PERILOUS FIRST ASCENT</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">M</span>R WHYMPER has also immortalised the first ascent of the Ecrins. Here is -the account Mr Moore wrote in his diary of that eventful day:</p> - -<p>“It must be confessed that the higher we climbed, the greater became our -contempt for our peak. It certainly seemed that, once over the -<i>bergschrund</i>, we ought very soon to be on the top, and so persuaded was -I of this, that I hazarded the opinion that by 9.30 we should be seated -on the highest point. Whymper alone was less sanguine; and, probably -encouraged by the result of his former bet, on hearing my opinion, -offered to bet Walker and myself two francs that we should not get up at -all, an offer which we promptly accepted. We were now sufficiently near -to the <i>bergschrund</i> to be able to form some idea of its nature and -difficulty. It certainly was a formidable-looking obstacle running -completely along the base of the final peak, or rather ridge from which -the peak itself<a name="page_236" id="page_236"></a> rose. For a long distance the chasm was of great width, -and, with its upper edge rising in a wall of ice, fringed with icicles, -to a height of, perhaps, 30 feet above the lower edge, was obviously -quite impassable. But on the extreme right (looking up), the two lips so -nearly met that we thought we might be able to get over, and on the -extreme left, it seemed possible, by a considerable <i>détour</i>, to -circumvent the enemy, and get round his flank. We finally determined on -the latter course, as, to the right, the slope above the chasm seemed to -be steeper than at any other point. After the first start, we had been -steering tolerably straight forwards up the centre of the glacier, and -were now approaching the <i>bergschrund</i>, just under the highest peak of -the mountain, at about its most impracticable point. The more direct -course would have been to attack it on the right, but, for the reason -above stated, we chose the opposite end, so had to strike well away to -the left diagonally up the slope. We here first began to suspect that -our progress would not be quite so easy and rapid as we had hoped, as -the snow became less abundant, and the use of the axe necessary. Still -we worked away steadily, until, at 8.10 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, in one hour and forty -minutes from the Col, we turned the <i>bergschrund</i>, and were fairly on -its upper edge, clinging to an ice-step which promised<a name="page_237" id="page_237"></a> to be only the -first of an unpleasantly long series.</p> - -<p>“Above us the slope stretched up to some rocks, which continued without -interruption to the main ridge, a prominent point on which was just -above our heads. The rocks looked quite easy, and it seemed that, by -making for them just under the small peak, we should be able to work -round the latter, and get on to the main ridge to the right of it -without serious difficulty. Almer led, and wielded his axe with his -usual vigour, but the ice was fearfully hard, and he found the work very -severe, as the steps had to be cut sufficiently large and good to serve -for our retreat, if need be. After each blow, he showered down storms of -fragments which came upon the hands and legs of his followers with a -violence that rendered their position the reverse of pleasant. Still the -rocks kept their distance, and it was a long time before we scrambled on -to the lowest of them, only to find that, although from below they had -appeared quite easy, they were in reality very steep, and so smooth that -it was scarcely possible to get along them at all, the hold for hands -and feet being almost nil. The rocky peak, too, above us turned out to -be much further off than we had supposed, and, to reach the point on the -main ridge to the right of it, we had before us a long<a name="page_238" id="page_238"></a> and difficult -climb up and along the face of the rocks. The prospect was not pleasant, -but we scrambled along the lower part of the rocks for a short time, and -then Almer started off alone to reconnoitre, leaving us rather -disconsolate, and Walker and myself beginning to think that there was a -considerable probability of our francs, after all, finding their way -into Whymper’s pocket. Croz did not approve of the rocks at all, and -strongly urged the propriety of getting down on to the ice-slope again, -and cutting along it above the <i>bergschrund</i> until we should be -immediately under the peak, and then strike straight up towards it. He -accordingly cast loose the rope, and crawling cautiously down, began -cutting. I am not very nervous, but, as I saw him creeping alone over -the ice-covered rocks, I felt an unpleasant qualm, which I was doomed to -experience several times before the end of the day. Just as Croz had -begun to work Almer returned, and reported that things ahead were -decidedly bad, but that he thought we could get on to the <i>arête</i> by -keeping up the rocks. We passed his opinion down to Croz, and, while he -was digesting it, we communicated to Almer what Croz had been saying to -us. Now, up to the present time no two men could have got on better, nor -more thoroughly agreed with each other, than Croz and Almer. We had been -slightly afraid that the<a name="page_239" id="page_239"></a> natural antipathy between an Oberlander and a -Chamouniard would break out upon every occasion, and that a constant -series of squabbles would be our daily entertainment. We were, however, -agreeably disappointed, as Almer displayed such an utter abnegation of -self, and such deference to Croz’s opinion, that had the latter been the -worst-tempered fellow in the world, instead of the really good fellow -that he was, he could not have found a cause of quarrel. Upon this -occasion, although Almer adhered to his own opinion that it would be -better to keep to the rocks, he begged us to follow the advice of Croz, -who was equally strong in favour of the ice, should he, on further -consideration, prefer that course. Croz protested emphatically against -the rocks, but left it to us to decide, but in such a manner that it was -plain that a decision adverse to his wishes would produce a rumpus. The -position was an awkward one. The idea of cutting along a -formidably-steep slope of hard ice immediately above a prodigious -<i>bergschrund</i> was most revolting to us, not only on account of the -inevitable danger of the proceeding, but also because of the frightful -labour which such a course must entail on the two men. On the other -hand, a serious difference with Croz would probably destroy all chance -of success in our attempt. So convinced, however, were we that the rocks -offered the most advisable route that we determined to try the<a name="page_240" id="page_240"></a> -experiment on Croz’s temper, and announced our decision accordingly. The -effect was electric; Croz came back again in the steps which he had cut, -anger depicted on his countenance, giving free vent to the ejaculations -of his native land, and requesting us to understand that, as we had so -chosen, we might do the work ourselves, that he would do no more. -Affairs were evidently serious, so each of us cried <i>peccavi</i>, and, to -calm his irritation, agreed, it must be confessed against our better -judgment, to adopt his route. Almer was more amused than annoyed, and -concurred without a word, so the storm blew over; the sky was again -clear, and we resumed our labours, which, during the discussion, had -been suspended for a few minutes.</p> - -<p>“The half-dozen steps that led us to the ice were about the most -unpleasant I ever took. The rocks were glazed with ice; there was -nothing in particular to hold on by, and without the trusty rope I -should have looked a long time before trusting myself to move. As it -was, I was very considerably relieved when we were all standing in the -steps, and Croz, again roped on to us, began at 9.35 to cut in front. I -must do him the justice to say that, so soon as we were committed to his -line of march, he worked splendidly, bringing the whole force of his arm -to bear in the blows with which he hewed the steps. Never halting for a -moment nor hesitating, he<a name="page_241" id="page_241"></a> hacked away, occasionally taking a glance -behind to see that all was right. We could not but admire the -determination with which he laboured, but the exertion was fearful, and -we became momentarily more of opinion that our original decision was the -wisest. The slope on which we were was inclined at an angle of 50°, -never less, sometimes more, for the most part of hard blue ice, bare of -snow. This was bad enough; but far worse were places which we -occasionally came to, where there was a layer of soft, dry, powdery -snow, without cohesion, so that it gave no footing, and steps had to be -cut through it into the ice below, steps which were filled up almost as -soon as cut, and which each man had to clear out with his hands before -trusting his feet in them. All the time the great <i>bergschrund</i> yawned -about 100 feet below us, and the knowledge of this fact kept us well on -the alert, although, from the steepness of the slope below, the chasm -itself was not visible. One hears people talk occasionally of places -where the rope should not be used, because one person slipping might -entail the loss of the whole party; but I never heard a guide give vent -to any such idea, and certain I am that had any one of us now proposed -to take off the rope and go alone on that account, Almer and Croz would -never have allowed it, and, indeed, would not have advanced another -step. It must be admitted, however, that<a name="page_242" id="page_242"></a> all along this slope, had one -of us unfortunately slipped, the chance of the others being able to hold -him up would have been very small, and the probability of the party in -their fall being shot over, instead of into, the <i>bergschrund</i>, still -smaller. But, in my opinion, the use of the rope on such places gives so -much more confidence, if it is no real protection, that the chances of a -slip are much diminished, and certainly a party can progress more -rapidly. For an hour Croz kept on his way unwearied, cutting the steps -for the most part beautifully, but occasionally giving us rather a long -stride, where every one held on like grim death, while each man in -succession passed. But at last even his powerful frame required rest; so -Almer relieved him, and went to the front.</p> - -<p>“All this time we had risen but little, but we were now very nearly -under the highest peak, and it was necessary to think of getting on to -the ridge; so we at last fairly turned our faces to the slope, and began -cutting straight up what appeared to be a great central couloir. Unlike -most couloirs, this one did not run without interruption to the ridge -above, but came to an abrupt termination at a considerable distance -below it, leaving an intervening space of rock, which promised some -trouble. But we were yet far from the lowest point of these rocks, and -every step towards them cost no small amount of time and labour. I have -rarely been on harder ice,<a name="page_243" id="page_243"></a> and, as blow after blow fell with so little -apparent result in raising us towards our goal, an inexpressible -weariness of spirit and a feeling of despair took possession of me. -Nevertheless we <i>did</i> mount, and at 11.30, after two hours of terribly -hard work (for the guides), we grasped with our hands the lowest of the -crags. To get on them, however, was no easy task, as they were -exceedingly smooth, and coated with ice. Almer scrambled up, how I know -not, and, taking as much rope as possible, crawled on until he was -<i>fest</i>, when, by a combined operation of pulling from above and pushing -from below, each of us in turn was raised a few steps. We hoped that -this might be an exceptional bit, and that higher up matters would -improve. But it was a vain hope; the first few steps were but a -foretaste of what was to follow, and every foot of height was gained -with the greatest difficulty and exertion. As we climbed with the tips -of our fingers in some small crevice, and the tips of our toes just -resting on some painfully minute ledge, probably covered with ice or -snow, one question gradually forced itself upon us, almost to the -exclusion of the previously absorbing one, whether we should get to the -top of the mountain, and this was, how on earth we should ever get down -again—get down, that is to say, in any other state than that of -<i>débris</i>. The idea that it would be possible to descend these rocks -again, except with a rush in the shape of an<a name="page_244" id="page_244"></a> avalanche, seemed rather -absurd; and at last, some one propounded the question to Almer and Croz, -but those worthies shirked the answer, and gave us one of those oracular -replies which a good guide always has at the tip of his tongue when he -is asked a question to which he does not wish to give a straightforward -response, to the effect that we should probably get down somehow. They -were, perhaps, of opinion that one thing at a time was sufficient, and -that they had work enough to settle the question of how we were to get -up. Our progress was unavoidably slow, and the positions in which one -was detained, while the man in front was going the full length of his -tether, were far from agreeable; while hanging on by my eyelids, the -view, seen between my legs, of the smooth wall of rock and ice on which -we had been so long engaged, struck me as being singularly impressive, -and gave me some occupation in discussing mentally where I should stop, -if in an oblivious moment I chanced to let go. But to all things must -come an end, and, at 12.30 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, with a great sigh of relief, we lifted -ourselves by a final effort on to the main ridge, which had so long -mocked at our efforts to reach it, and, to our huge delight, saw the -summit of the mountain on our right, led up to by a very steep <i>arête</i> -of rocks, but evidently within our reach.</p> - -<p>“The work of the last four hours and a half had<a name="page_245" id="page_245"></a> been so exciting that -we had forgotten to eat, and, indeed, had not felt the want of food; but -now the voice of nature made itself heard, and we disposed ourselves in -various positions on the ridge, which in many places we might have -straddled, and turned our attention to the provisions. As we sat facing -the final peak of the Ecrins, we had on our left the precipice which -falls to the head of the Glacier Noir. Without any exaggeration, I never -saw so sheer a wall; it was so smooth and regular that it might have -been cut with a knife, as a cheese is cut in two. Looking over, we saw -at once that, as we had thought probable, had we been able to get from -La Bérarde on to the ridge at the head of the Glacier du Vallon, it -would have been impossible to get down on to the Glacier Noir, as the -cliffs are almost as precipitous as those down which we were looking. On -the right bank of the Glacier Noir towered the dark crags of the -Pelvoux, Crête du Pelvoux, and Ailefroide, a most glorious sight, -presenting a combination of, perhaps, the finest rock-forms in the Alps; -I certainly never saw so long and steep a line of cliffs, rising so -abruptly from a glacier.</p> - -<p>“At 12.50 we started again, Almer leading. We had first to cross a very -short but very narrow neck of snow, and Almer had scarcely set foot on -this, when a great mass of snow, which had appeared quite firm and part -of the ridge, suddenly gave way,<a name="page_246" id="page_246"></a> and fell with a roar to the Glacier -Noir below. Almer’s left foot was actually on this snow when it gave -way. He staggered, and we all thought he was over, but he recovered -himself and managed to keep steady on the firm ridge. It is true he was -roped; but the idea of a man being dropped with a sudden jerk, and then -allowed to hang suspended, over that fearful abyss, was almost too much -for my equanimity, and for the second time a shudder ran through my -veins. This little isthmus crossed, we tackled the rocks which rose very -steeply above our heads, and climbed steadily up along the <i>arête</i>, -generally rather below the edge on the side of the Glacier de l’Encula. -The work was hard enough, but easier than what we had gone through -below, as the rocks were free from ice, and the hold for hands and feet -was much better, so that there was no fear of slipping. I don’t think a -word was said from the time we quitted our halting-place until we were -close to the top, when the guides tried to persuade us to go in front, -so as to be the first to set foot on the summit. But this we declined; -they had done the work, let them be the first to reap the reward. It was -finally settled that we should all go on together as much as possible, -as neither party would give way in this amicable contest. A sharp -scramble in breathless excitement ensued, until, at 1.25 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, the last -step was taken,<a name="page_247" id="page_247"></a> and we stood on the top of the Ecrins, the worthy -monarch of the Dauphiné Alps.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/i_304_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_304_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_304_sml.jpg" width="419" height="576" alt="The Ecrins (in the centre) from the Glacier Blanc. By -Signor Vittorio Sella. - -To face p. 247." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Ecrins (in the centre) from the Glacier Blanc.<br /> -By Signor Vittorio Sella. -<br /> -To face p. 247.</span> -</p> - -<p>“In that supreme moment all our toils and dangers were forgotten in the -blissful consciousness of success, and the thrill of exultation that ran -through me, as I stood, in my turn, on the very highest point of the -higher pinnacle—a little peak of rock with a cap of snow—was cheaply -purchased by what we had gone through. Close to us was a precisely -similar point, of much the same height, which scarcely came up to the -rank of a second summit. It could have been reached in a few seconds -from our position, but, as our point was actually the higher of the two, -and was also more convenient for sitting down, we remained where we -were. I must confess to a total inability to describe the wonderful -panorama that lay extended before us. I am not one of those happily -constituted individuals who, after many hours of excitement, can calmly -sit on the apex of a mountain, and discuss simultaneously cold chicken -and points of topography. I am not ashamed to confess that I was far too -excited to study, as I ought to have done, the details of a view which, -for extent and variety, is altogether without a parallel in my Alpine -experience. Suffice it to say that over the whole sky there was not one -single cloud, and that we were sitting on the most elevated summit south -of Mont<a name="page_248" id="page_248"></a> Blanc, and it may fairly be left to the imagination to conceive -what we saw, as, at an elevation of 13,462 feet, we basked in the sun, -without the cold wind usually attendant at these heights. There was not -a breath of air, and the flame of a candle would have burnt steadily -without a flicker. In our immediate neighbourhood, after the range of -the Pelvoux, before described, the most striking object was the great -wall of the Meije, the western summit of which, from here, came out -distinctly the highest. The Aiguilles d’Arves stood out exceedingly -well, and, although 2000 feet lower than our position, looked amazingly -high. Almost the only trace of civilisation we could distinctly make out -was the Lautaret road, a portion of which, probably near the entrance of -the valley leading to the Glacier d’Arsines, was plainly visible. On the -side of the mountain towards La Bérarde, what principally struck us was -a very great and extensive glacier, apparently not marked on the map, -which appeared to be an arm of the Glacier du Vallon, but far more -considerable itself than the whole glacier is depicted on the French -map. Of the extent of the view, and the wonderfully favourable condition -of the atmosphere, a fair idea may be gained from the fact that we -clearly identified the forms and ridges of the Matterhorn and Weisshorn, -the latter at a distance of 120 miles, as the crow flies, and that<a name="page_249" id="page_249"></a> -those were by no means the most distant objects visible.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_311a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_311a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_311a_sml.jpg" width="251" height="278" alt="Slab climbing. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Slab climbing. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_311c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_311c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_311c_sml.jpg" width="239" height="333" alt="A narrow rock ridge. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A narrow rock ridge.<br /> -By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_311b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_311b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_311b_sml.jpg" width="219" height="329" alt="On the Dent du Géant. By the late Mr. W. F. Donkin." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">On the Dent du Géant.<br /> -By the late Mr. W. F. Donkin.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_311d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_311d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_311d_sml.jpg" width="251" height="269" alt="The top at last! - -To face p. 252." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The top at last! -<br /> -To face p. 252.</span> -</p> - -<p>“So soon as the first excitement consequent on success had subsided, we -began seriously to meditate upon what during the ascent had frequently -troubled us, viz. the descent. With one consent we agreed that unless no -other route could be found, it would be most unadvisable to attempt to -go down the way we had mounted. The idea of the rocks, to be followed by -the ice-slope below—in a doubly dangerous state after being exposed all -day to the scorching sun—was not to be entertained without a shudder. -The only alternative route lay along the opposite <i>arête</i> to that which -had led us to the top, and, although we could not see far in this -direction, we determined, after very little discussion, to try it. -Accordingly, after twenty minutes’ halt, we each pocketed a small -fragment of the stone that was lying on the snow, and, regretting that -we had no bottle to leave, and no materials with which to construct a -cairn, took our departure at 1.45 from the lofty perch which, I fancy, -is not likely to receive many subsequent visitors. Passing immediately -below the second point before mentioned, so that our hands almost rested -on it, and also several similar pinnacles, our work commenced. I never, -before or since, was on so narrow an <i>arête</i> of rock, and really from -step to step I was at a loss<a name="page_250" id="page_250"></a> to imagine how we were to get on any -further. We kept, as a rule, just below the edge, as before, on the side -of the Glacier de l’Encula, along a series of ledges of the narrowest -and most insecure character; but we were always sufficiently near the -top to be able to look over the ridge, down the appalling precipices -which overhang, first the Glacier Noir, and later, the Glacier du -Vallon. Of course, every single step had to be taken with the greatest -care, only one person moving in turn, and the rest holding on for dear -life, Croz coming last to hold all up. In spite of the great difficulty -of the route, the obstacles were only such as required more or less time -to surmount, and although the slightest nervousness on the part of any -one of us would have endangered the whole party and delayed us -indefinitely, in the absence of that drawback we got on pretty well. We -were beginning to hope that the worst was over, when Almer suddenly -stopped short, and looked about him uneasily. On our asking him what was -the matter, he answered vaguely that things ahead looked bad, and that -he was not sure that we could pass. Croz accordingly undid the rope, as -also did Almer, and the two went forward a little, telling us to remain -where we were. We could <i>not</i> see what was the nature of the difficulty, -but we <i>could</i> see the countenances of the men, which sufficiently -showed us that the<a name="page_251" id="page_251"></a> hitch was serious. Under any other circumstances we -should have been amused at Almer’s endeavours to communicate his views -to Croz in an amazing mixture of pantomime, bad German, and worse -French. He evidently was trying to persuade Croz of something, which -Croz was not inclined to agree to, and we soon made out that the point -at issue was, whether we could get over this particular place, or -whether we must return to the summit, and go down the way we had come. -Croz was of the latter opinion, while Almer obstinately maintained that, -bad as the place was, we <i>could</i> get over it, and proceeded to perform -some manœuvres, which we could not clearly see, by way of showing the -correctness of his opinion. Croz, however, was unconvinced, and came -back to us, declaring plainly that we should have to return. We shouted -to Almer, who was still below, but he evidently had not the slightest -intention of returning, and in a few moments called upon us to come on, -an injunction which we cheerfully obeyed as, in our opinion, anything -would be preferable to a retreat, and Croz perforce followed. A very few -steps showed us the nature of the difficulty. The <i>arête</i> suddenly -narrowed to a mere knife-edge of <i>rock</i>, while on one side a smooth -wall, some 4000 feet in height, fell sheer towards the Glacier du -Vallon, and on the other side, above the Glacier de l’Encula,<a name="page_252" id="page_252"></a> the slope -was not much less steep and equally smooth. To pass below the ridge on -either side was obviously quite impossible; to walk along the ridge, -which was by no means level, was equally so, and the only way of getting -over the difficulty, therefore, was to straddle it, an operation which -the sharpness of the ridge, putting aside all other considerations, -would render the reverse of agreeable. However, there, perched in the -middle of this fiendish place, sat Almer, with one leg over Glacier du -Vallon and the other over the Glacier de l’Encula, calm and unmoved, as -if the position was quite an everyday one. He had not got the rope on, -and as he began moving along the ridge we shrieked at him to take care, -to which he responded with a ‘<i>ja, gewiss!</i>’ and a chuckle of -satisfaction. We threw him the end of the rope, and then cautiously -moved, one at a time, towards him. I must confess that when I found -myself actually astride on this dizzy height I felt more inclined to -remain there for ever, contemplating the Glacier du Vallon, on to which -I might have dropped a stone, than to make my way along it. The -encouraging voice of Almer, however, urged me on, and I gradually worked -myself along with my hands until I was close up to him and Walker, with -no damage save to the seat of my trousers. Whymper and Croz followed. -From this point forwards we had for half-an-hour, without exception, the -most<a name="page_253" id="page_253"></a> perilous climbing, I ever did. We crept along the cliffs, -sometimes on one side of the ridge, sometimes on the other, frequently -passing our arms over the summit, with our feet resting on rather less -than nothing. Almer led with wonderful skill and courage, and gradually -brought us over the worst portion of the <i>arête</i>, below which the -climbing was bad enough, but not quite such nervous work as before, and -we were able to get along rather quicker. At length, at 3.45, in two -hours from the top, we were not far above the well-marked gap in the -ridge, between the highest peak and the one marked on the French map -3980 mètres, or 13,058 feet. There we thankfully left the <i>arête</i>, and, -turning to the right, struck straight down the ice-slope towards the -<i>bergschrund</i>. Almost every step had to be cut, but, in spite of all he -had done, Almer’s vigour seemed unimpaired, and resolutely declining -Croz’s offers to come to the front, he hacked away, so that we descended -steadily, if slowly. We could not see the <i>bergschrund</i>, and were -therefore uncertain for what exact point to steer, for we knew that at -only one place would it be possible to get over it at all, where from -below we had seen that the two edges nearly met—at all others the -breadth and height would be far too great for a jump. For some distance -we kept straight down, but after a time bore rather to the left, cutting -diagonally along the slope, which was inclined at an angle of 52°, and,<a name="page_254" id="page_254"></a> -below us, curled over so rapidly, that we <i>could</i> see the glacier on to -which we wished to descend, but <i>could not</i> see what lay between us and -it. Passing over a patch of ice-covered rocks which projected very -slightly from the general level of the slope, we were certain that we -could not be far above the <i>schrund</i>, but did not quite see how we were -to get down any further without knowing whether we <i>were</i> above a -practicable point or not. It was suggested that one of the party should -be let down with a rope, but, while we were discussing who should be the -one, Almer cut a few steps more, and then, stooping down and craning -over, gave a yell of exultation, and exclaimed that it was all right, -and that we might jump over. By a marvellous bit of intuition, or good -luck, he had led us to the only point where the two edges of the chasm -so nearly met that we could get across. He cut down as low as possible, -and then, from the last step, each man, in turn, sprang without -difficulty on to the lower edge of the crevasse, and at 4.45 the problem -of getting off the mountain was solved.</p> - -<p>“The return from this point was uneventful.”</p> - -<p>A few days later Mr Moore had an amusing conversation with a chance -acquaintance, who made a remark that has since been often quoted. Mr -Moore relates it as follows:—</p> - -<p>“At the door of the hotel was standing a young<a name="page_255" id="page_255"></a> Frenchman, with whom we -got into conversation, observing that we had just made the ascent of the -highest mountain in the country. ‘Oh,’ replied he, ‘sans doute, le Pic -de Belledonne’; a rather elevated Rigi in the neighbourhood. We informed -him that our conquest was not the Pic de Belladonne, but the Pic des -Ecrins, on hearing which he smiled blandly, never having heard the name -before, and, evidently meditating how he might avoid showing his -ignorance, finally contented himself with a spasmodic ‘Ah!’ After a -short pause, he inquired whether we had been up Mont Blanc, and, on <i>my</i> -replying in the negative, went on to say that <i>he</i> had, about ten days -before. We were astonished, as, without wishing to reflect on the -appearance of the worthy Gaul, I must say that he did not give us the -idea of a man capable of such a performance. However, we, in our turn, -smiled blandly, and inquired whether, so early in the season, he had -found the ascent difficult, and whether he had had a good view from the -<i>summit</i>. ‘From the summit!’ said he; ‘I did not go to the summit.’ We -ventured to inquire how high his wanderings had reached. ‘Mon Dieu!’ -replied he, ‘jusqu’au Montanvert!’ Our politeness was not proof against -this, so we broke off the conversation abruptly, and retired to indulge -our merriment unchecked.”</p> - -<p>The Ecrins is now frequently climbed. A new way up the rocky south side -was discovered by a<a name="page_256" id="page_256"></a> Frenchman, and is now usually taken for the ascent, -the descent being accomplished by the north face which the party that -included Mr Moore went up by and which has just been described. The -route is now well known, and thus it is possible to hit off the easiest -passages, but the traverse of what is known to the guides as ‘the -Couloir Whymper’ always requires the greatest care.<a name="page_257" id="page_257"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI<br /><br /> -<small>THUNDERSTORMS IN THE ALPS</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">T</span>HE fatal accident caused by lightning on the Wetterhorn in 1902 has -emphasized the curious fact that, except on that occasion, and once -before, many years ago, when Mrs Arbuthnot was killed on the -Schildthorn, no lives<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> have been lost in a thunderstorm on the Alps. -This is the more remarkable when we glance through books on -mountaineering, and notice how often climbers have been exposed to the -full fury of summer storms, and what narrow escapes they have had. In -July 1863, Mr and Mrs Spence Watson, with two friends and two guides, -made an excursion from the Æggischhorn to the high glacier pass of the -Jungfraujoch, an admirable account of the day’s adventures having been -contributed by Mr Watson to <i>The Alpine Journal</i>, from which I extract -the following details.</p> - -<p>After starting on a lovely morning, the weather changed, and when they -got to the pass they encountered a severe storm of wind, snow, and hail. -They quickly turned to descend, the snow falling so<a name="page_258" id="page_258"></a> heavily that they -could not for a time see their old tracks. Suddenly a loud peal of -thunder was heard, “and shortly after,” writes Mr Watson, “I observed -that a strange singing sound like that of a kettle was issuing from my -alpenstock. We halted, and finding that all the axes and stocks emitted -the same sound, stuck them into the snow. The guide from the hotel now -pulled off his cap, shouting that his head burned, and his hair seemed -to have a similar appearance to that which it would have presented had -he been on an insulated stool under a powerful electrical machine. We -all of us experienced the sensation of pricking or burning in some part -of the body, more especially in the head and face, my hair also standing -on end in an uncomfortable but very amusing manner. The snow gave out a -hissing sound, as though a shower of hail were falling; the veil in the -wide-awake of one of the party stood upright in the air; and on waving -our hands, the singing sound issued loudly from the fingers. Whenever a -peal of thunder was heard the phenomenon ceased, to be resumed before -its echoes had died away. At these times we felt shocks, more or less -violent, in those portions of the body which were most affected. By one -of these shocks my right arm was paralysed so completely that I could -neither use nor raise it for several minutes, nor, indeed, till it had -been severely rubbed by Claret, and I suffered much pain in it at the -shoulder joint<a name="page_259" id="page_259"></a> for some hours. At half-past twelve the clouds began -to pass away, and the phenomenon finally ceased, having lasted -twenty-five minutes. We saw no lightning, and were puzzled at first as -to whether we should be afraid or amused. The young guide was very much -alarmed, but Claret, who had twice previously heard the singing -(unaccompanied by the other symptoms), laughed so heartily at the whole -affair that he kept up our spirits.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_320a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_320a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_320a_sml.jpg" width="242" height="328" alt="On a ridge in the Oberland." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">On a ridge in the Oberland.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_320b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_320b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_320b_sml.jpg" width="264" height="361" alt="The second largest glacier in the Alps. By Royston Le -Blond. - -To face p. 259." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The second largest glacier in the Alps. By Royston Le -Blond. -<br /> -To face p. 259.</span> -</p> - -<p>The position of the party, was, however, by no means safe, yet though I -have often heard the buzzing of ice-axes and rocks when in a -thunderstorm on the mountains, I have never seen any ill effects from -it.</p> - -<p>A little later another description appears in <i>The Alpine Journal</i>, by -Mr C. Packe, who, during the descent of a peak in the Pyrenees, was -astonished to hear a curious creaking sound proceeding from behind him. -He was carrying various heavy articles at the time, and imagined that -the noise was due to the straining of the straps of his knapsack. He -presently unslung his load, and was amazed to find a strange buzzing -noise proceeding from his rifle, “as though it had been an air gun -trying to discharge itself. As I held it away from me, pointed upwards,” -he continues, “the noise became stronger, and as I in vain sought to -account for it, I thought it possible that some large insect—a bee or -beetle—might have got down the barrel, and be trying to escape. I held<a name="page_260" id="page_260"></a> -the barrel downwards, with a view to shake it out; but on lowering the -gun the sound at once ceased, but was renewed as often as I raised it.” -It then began to occur to Mr Packe that the sound was electrical, and he -felt sure this was so when he found that his alpenstock had joined in -the buzzing. He therefore made a hasty retreat out of the highly charged -upper regions. Several peals of thunder had previously been heard but no -lightning was seen. A violent storm had, however, been experienced in a -neighbouring district. That similar conditions may seem delightful to -one man and entirely odious to another will strike whoever reads the -following short extract from an account of a climb in the Pyrenees made -by Mons. Henri Brulle. It was translated by Count Russell for <i>The -Alpine Journal</i>, and runs as follows:</p> - -<p>“Another time I crossed the Vignemale alone, <i>en col</i>, under conditions -which made this expedition the pleasantest of my souvenirs. A furious -storm was raging. Enveloped in the morning in a dense fog, annoyed in -the steep couloirs of the Cerbillonas by vultures which swept over me -like avalanches, just grazing me with their long wings, assailed during -three hours by hailstones of such size that they bruised and stunned me, -deafened by thunder, and so electrified that I was hissing and -crepitating, I notwithstanding reached the summit at<a name="page_261" id="page_261"></a> half-past four in -the evening, amidst incessant detonations. In descending the glacier I -got lost in a labyrinth of crevasses, and while balancing myself on an -ice-wave I nearly dropped my ice-axe. As a climax, night came on as -black as ink, and I had to grope and feel my way down the endless valley -of Ossoue. It was eleven o’clock at night when I reached Gavarnie, -almost starved and quite exhausted, but having lived the crowning day of -my life.”</p> - -<p>Here is indeed Mark Tapley in the flesh!</p> - -<p>Captain E. Clayton relates in <i>The Alpine Journal</i> an adventure that -nearly cost him his life.</p> - -<p>“On 17th August last I left the Hochjoch Haus with Gabriel -Spechtenhauser with the intention of ascending the Weisskugel at the -head of the Oetzthal. The weather for the past week had been very -changeable, but when we started at 3 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> it was fine and starlight. A -German gentleman with two guides and two others with two guides started -at the same time. As long as the aid of a lantern was desirable we kept -together, but as it grew light Gabriel and I gradually drew ahead. As -day broke clouds began to gather, and when we halted for breakfast at -6.10 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> they hung so heavy on the Weisskugel that after breakfast, -instead of going straight on, we diverged to the top of the rocks -leading down towards Kurzras, with the intention of waiting a short -time<a name="page_262" id="page_262"></a> to see what the weather would do, and if it did not mend, of going -down to Kurzras, where a friend was awaiting me.</p> - -<p>“At these rocks we were overtaken by the single German gentleman with -his guides, who had outstripped the other party. Before long the weather -seemed to improve, the clouds on the Weisskugel got lighter, the sky -seemed bright to the north, and we thought that very soon everything -would be quite clear. The German quickly made a fresh start, but Gabriel -and I waited to finish our pipes. However, we soon passed the other -party, and, passing over a minor summit, where we left the rope, reached -the real summit at 8.30 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> We had heard one or two peals of thunder on -the way, but none appeared very close, and they seemed to be getting -more distant. The summit was still in cloud, but it did not seem thick, -and I thought it would soon blow away. But almost directly we reached -the top it began to hail, and we went down a few steps on the rocky -ridge that falls towards the Langtauferer Glacier, to be somewhat -sheltered.</p> - -<p>“Here I remember handing Gabriel my map to put in his pocket to keep -dry, and knew nothing more till I woke to the consciousness that he was -lifting me up from where I was lying on the rocks, some 20 feet, I -suppose, lower than the point<a name="page_263" id="page_263"></a> where we had been standing. I was -bleeding from a cut on the head, and my right arm was very painful, and -turned out afterwards to be broken. Gabriel said that he had been -knocked down also, but not rendered insensible, and, falling on his -hands towards the upward slope, was not hurt. He also said that he was -to a certain extent conscious of there having been a sudden glare and -explosion, but I knew nothing of it. The German and his two guides, who -at the time were just below the first summit, but not within sight of -us, were so alarmed at the lightning and thunder, that they turned at -once and never stopped till they reached Kurzras. The other party, who -had not got beyond the rocks where we halted during the ascent, waited -there for us, and Joseph Spechtenhauser, one of their guides, came to -meet us and see if we wanted assistance. However, I was quite myself -when I came to, which was directly Gabriel lifted me up, and the -mountain is so easy that my disabled arm was of little consequence. I -did not notice any more thunder or lightning after the flash that -knocked us down, and the day cleared up to a lovely one. I have every -reason to be pleased with Gabriel’s kindness and attention to me without -regard to himself, and very much regret that my accident prevented me -from carrying out any of the other<a name="page_264" id="page_264"></a> expeditions which I had promised -myself the pleasure of making in his company.”</p> - -<p>One of the most exciting accounts of an adventure in the Alps is Mr -Tuckett’s description of “A Race for Life,”<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> on the Eiger. Hardly -less stirring is a paper in <i>The Alpine Journal</i> by the same famous -climber, from which he most kindly allows me to give a long quotation, -telling of a narrow escape during one of the most appalling -thunderstorms that could be experienced. The party were making the -ascent of the Roche Melon, a peak 11,593 feet high not far from the Mont -Cenis. The weather was unsettled, and grew worse as they mounted.</p> - -<p>“Proceeding very cautiously through the whirling wreaths of vapour lest -we should suddenly drop over upon Italy and hurt it—or ourselves—we -struck up the ‘final incline’—as an American companion of mine once -dubbed the cone of Vesuvius as we looked down upon it from its rim—and -at 11.15 stood beside the ruins of the signal and enjoyed a very -magnificent view of nothing in particular. As we had plenty of time at -our disposal—three and a half hours sufficing for the descent to -Susa—and the wind was keen and damp, our first proceeding was to search -for the chapel, which we knew must be quite close to the summit of the -peak; and, about 30 feet lower down, on the southern side, which was -entirely free from snow, we<a name="page_265" id="page_265"></a> came upon a tight little wooden building, -some 6 or 7 feet long and high by 5 broad, very carefully constructed, -with flat bands of thin iron on the outside covering the lines of -junction of the planks, so as effectually to keep out both wind and -moisture. Opposite the door, which we found carefully bolted, was a -wooden shelf against the wall serving as an altar, on which stood a -small bronze statuette of the Virgin, whilst on either hand hung the -usual curious medley of votive paintings, engravings, crosses, tapers -etc., not to mention certain pious scribblings. Taking great care to -disturb nothing, we arranged a loose board and our packs on the rather -damp floor so as to form a seat, and waited for the clouds to disperse -and disclose the superb panorama that we knew should here be visible.</p> - -<p>“Here I may be allowed to mention that a chapel, said to have been -originally excavated in the rock, and subsequently buried under ice or -snow, was here dedicated to the Virgin by a crusader of Asti, Boniface -by name, of the house of Rovero, in fulfilment of a vow made whilst a -captive in the hands of the Saracens. More recently the present wooden -structure has taken its place, and every year, on 5th August, pilgrims -resort to it in considerable numbers. Lower down on the Susa side is a -much more substantial structure, at a height of 9396 feet, called the Cà -d’Asti, in allusion to the circumstances of<a name="page_266" id="page_266"></a> its foundation. The last is -a solidly, not to say massively, constructed circular edifice of stone -and mortar, some 15 or 16 feet in diameter, and perhaps rather more in -height, with a vaulted roof of solid masonry covered externally with -tiles, and surmounted by an iron cross. Seen from below, it stands out -boldly on a mass of crags which conceal the actual summit of the Roche -Melon, and close by are some low sheds, which appear ordinarily to serve -as shelter for flocks of sheep browsing on the grassy slopes around, but -on the night preceding the festa of 5th August, furnish sleeping -quarters for the assembled pilgrims, who attend mass in the adjoining -chapel, if the weather, as frequently happens, does not permit of its -being celebrated on the summit of the mountain, in what is probably the -most elevated shrine in Europe.</p> - -<p class="cb">. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . . -. . . . .</p> - -<p>“The Roche Melon stands just in the track of the great storms which, -brewed in the heated plains of Lombardy and Piedmont, come surging up -through the valley of the Dora Riparia, and burst, hurling and crashing -over the depression of Mont Cenis, to find or make a watery grave in the -valley of the Arc. Of their combined fierceness and grandeur we were -soon to have only too favourable an opportunity of judging, for scarcely -more than five minutes after we had comfortably established<a name="page_267" id="page_267"></a> ourselves -under shelter, suddenly, without a moment’s warning, a perfect -<i>mitraille</i> of hail smote the roof above us, tore through the mist like -grape-shot through battle-smoke, and whitened the ground like snow. We -closed the door carefully, for now came flash after flash of brilliant -lightning, with sharp, angry, snapping thunder, which, if we had been a -quarter of an hour later, would have made our position on the exposed -northern side anything but pleasant. We congratulated ourselves on our -good fortune, but were glad to pitch our axes amongst the <i>débris</i> of -rock above us and await patiently the hoped-for dispersal of the fog. In -a few minutes the hail ceased, the mist became somewhat brighter, rifts -appeared in all directions, and, issuing forth, we were amply rewarded -by such glimpses of the wonderful view as, if not fully satisfactory for -topographical purposes, were, in a picturesque and artistic point of -view, indescribably grand and interesting. The extent of level country -visible is a remarkable feature in the view from the Roche Melon, as -also in that from the summit of the Pourri, where Imseng not a little -amused me on first catching sight of the plains of France stretching -away till lost in the haze, by shouting in a fit of uncontrollable -enthusiasm, ‘Ach! Das ist wunderschön!—ganz eben!’<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a></p> - -<p><a name="page_268" id="page_268"></a></p> - -<p>“We had not had more than time enough to seize the general features of -the panorama and admire the special effects with their ever-changing and -kaleidoscopic combinations, when the mist once more swooped upon us, -again to be followed by hail, lightning, and thunder, and a fresh -clearance. But this second visitation left behind it a further souvenir -in the shape of a phenomenon with which most mountaineers are probably -more or less familiar, but which I never met with to the same extent -before—I allude to an electrified condition of the summit of the -mountain and all objects on its surface by conduction. As the clouds -swept by, every rock, every loose stone, the uprights of the rude -railing outside the chapel, the ruined signal, our axes, my lorgnette -and flask, and even my fingers and elbows, set up</p> - -<p class="c"> -“‘a dismal universal hiss.’<br /> -</p> - -<p class="nind">It was as though we were in a vast nest of excited snakes, or a battery -of frying-pans, or listening at a short distance to the sustained note -of a band of <i>cigali</i> in a chestnut wood—a mixture of comparisons which -may serve sufficiently to convey the impression that the general effect -was indescribable. I listened and looked and tried experiments for some -time, but suddenly it burst out with an energy that suggested a coming -explosion, or some equally unpleasant <i>dénouement</i>, and, dropping my -axe, to<a name="page_269" id="page_269"></a> whose performance I had been listening, I fairly bolted for -the chapel.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_332a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_332a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_332a_sml.jpg" width="323" height="220" alt="13,300 feet above the sea." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">13,300 feet above the sea.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:380px;"> -<a href="images/i_332c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_332c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_332c_sml.jpg" width="376" height="255" alt="On the Furggen Grat." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">On the Furggen Grat.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_332b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_332b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_332b_sml.jpg" width="328" height="242" alt="A “personally conducted” party on the Breithorn." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A “personally conducted” party on the Breithorn.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_332d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_332d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_332d_sml.jpg" width="326" height="217" alt="Packing the knapsack after lunch. - -To face p. 269." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Packing the knapsack after lunch. -<br /> -To face p. 269.</span> -</p> - -<p>“We had now spent a couple of hours on the summit, and had succeeded in -getting, bit by bit, a sight of most of the principal features of the -very remarkable view, with the exception of Monte Viso, which -persistently sulked; so at 1.15, as there seemed a probability of the -weather becoming worse before it improved, we quitted our excellent -shelter, and, after putting everything in order and carefully closing -and bolting the door, sallied forth into the mist, which was again -enshrouding the mountain, apparently as the advance guard of the -fiercest storm in the neighbourhood, which we had for some time been -watching as it swept solemnly towards us down the valley of the Dora.</p> - -<p>“There is a sort of track, rather than well-defined path, down the bare, -rocky, and <i>débris</i>-covered southern face of the mountain, but in the -fog and momentarily increasing gloom of the coming tempest it was not -always very easy to distinguish it. Still, we descended rapidly, and in -less than half an hour had dropped down some 2000 feet to a point where, -during an instant’s lift, we descried the outline of the Cà d’Asti five -minutes below us, just as the edge of the coming hail smote us with a -fury which it was hard at times to face. We dashed on—it was a regular -<i>sauve qui peut</i>—blinded and staggering<a name="page_270" id="page_270"></a> under the pitiless pelting and -the fury of the blast, gained the door of the chapel, which faced the -storm, deposited our axes outside, and darted in, thankful again to find -ourselves under so good a roof just when it was most needed.</p> - -<p>“For, if there had been at times wild goings on upon the summit during -the morning, they were merely a faint prelude to the elemental strife -which now raged around. The wind roared and the hail hissed in fiendish -rivalry, and yet both seemed silenced when the awful crashes of thunder -burst above and about us. We were in the very central track and focus of -the storm, and, as we sat crouched upon the floor, the ground and the -building seemed to reel beneath the roar of the detonations, and our -heads almost to swim with the fierce glare of the lightning. I had -carefully closed the door, not only to keep the wind and hail out, but -also because lightning is apt to follow a current of air, and, to the -right on entering, at about the height of a man, was a small unglazed -window some 2 feet square. Opposite the door was the altar, on the step -of which I seated myself. Imseng took a place by my side, between me and -the window, whilst Christian perched himself on the coil of rope with -his back to the wall, not far from the door, and between it and the -window. A quarter of a hour may have gone by when a flash of intense -vividness seemed almost to dart through<a name="page_271" id="page_271"></a> the window, and so affected -Imseng’s nerves that he hastily quitted his seat by me and coiled -himself up near Christian, remarking that ‘that was rather too close to -be pleasant.’ Then came four more really awful flashes, followed all but -instantaneously by sharp, crackling thunder, which sounded like a volley -of bullets against a metal target, and then a fifth with a slightly -increased interval between it and the report. I was just remarking to -Christian that I thought the worst was past, and that we should soon be -liberated, adding, ‘How fortunate we are for the second time to-day to -get such shelter just in the nick of time,’ when—crash! went -everything, it seemed, all at once:</p> - -<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> -<span class="i0">“‘No warning of the approach of flame,<br /></span> -<span class="i2">Swiftly like sudden death it came.’<br /></span> -</div></div> - -<p class="nind">If some one had struck me from behind on the bump of firmness with a -sledge-hammer, or if we had been in the interior of a gigantic -percussion shell which an external blow had suddenly exploded, I fancy -the sensation might have resembled that which I for the first instant -experienced. We were blinded, deafened, smothered, and struck, all in a -breath. The place seemed filled with fire, our ears rang with the -report, fragments of what looked like incandescent matter rained down -upon us as though a meteorite had burst, and a suffocating sulphurous -odour—probably due to the sudden production of ozone in large -quantities—almost choked us. For<a name="page_272" id="page_272"></a> an instant we reeled as though -stunned, but each sprang to his feet and instinctively made for the -door. What my companions’ ideas were I cannot tell; mine were few and -simple—I had been struck, or was being struck, or both; the roof would -be down upon us in another moment; inside was death, outside our only -safety. The door opened inwards, and our simultaneous rush delayed our -escape; but it was speedily thrown back, and, dashing out into the -blinding hail, we plunged, dazed and almost stupefied, into the nearest -shed. For the next few minutes the lightning continued to play about us -in so awful a manner that we were in no mood calmly to investigate the -nature or extent of our injuries. It was enough that we were still among -the living, though I must own that, at first, I had a fearful suspicion -that poor Imseng was seriously wounded. He held his head between his -hands, and rolled it about in so daft a manner, and was so odd and -unnatural in his movements generally, that it struck me his brain might -have received some injury. I, for my part, was painfully conscious of a -good deal of pain in the region of the right instep, and I saw that one -of Christian’s hands was bleeding, and that he was holding both his -thighs as if in suffering.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:370px;"> -<a href="images/i_337a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_337a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_337a_sml.jpg" width="363" height="259" alt="Monte Rosa from the Furggen Grat." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Monte Rosa from the Furggen Grat.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:390px;"> -<a href="images/i_337b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_337b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_337b_sml.jpg" width="382" height="257" alt="The Matterhorn from the Wellenkuppe. - -To face p. 272." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Matterhorn from the Wellenkuppe. -<br /> -To face p. 272.</span> -</p> - -<p>“Gradually the storm drew off towards the Mont Cenis, and, with minds -free from the tension of imminent peril, we had time to take stock of -our<a name="page_273" id="page_273"></a> condition. It was a relief to see Imseng let go his head and -observe that it remained erect; to hear Christian say that his thighs -were getting better; and to find, on examining my foot, that the -mischief was nothing more than a flesh wound, which was bleeding but -slightly. My hat, indeed, was knocked in, my pockets filled with stones -and plaster, and my heart, it may be, somewhat nearer my mouth than -usual, but otherwise we could congratulate ourselves, with deep -thankfulness on a most marvellous escape from serious harm.</p> - -<p>“On comparing our impressions, Imseng declared that the lightning had -entered through the window, struck the altar, glanced off from it to the -wall, and then vanished, whilst Christian and I agreed in the belief -that the roof had been the part struck, and the flash had descended -almost vertically upon us. Quitting our place of refuge and repairing to -the chapel, we encountered a scene of ruin which at once confirmed the -correctness of our views. The lightning had evidently first struck the -iron cross outside and smashed in the roof, dashing fragments of stone -and plaster upon us which, brilliantly illuminated, looked to our dazed -and confused vision like flakes of fiery matter. It had then encountered -the altar, overturning the iron cross and wooden candlesticks only 3 -feet from the back of my head as I sat on the step, tearing the wreath -of artificial flowers or worsted<a name="page_274" id="page_274"></a> rosettes strung on copper wire which -surrounded the figure of the Virgin, and scattering the fragments in all -directions. Next it glanced against the wall, tore down, or otherwise -damaged, some of the votive pictures (engravings), and splintered -portions of their frames into ‘matchwood.’ The odour of ozone was still -strong, the water from the melting hail was coming freely through the -roof, and the walls were in two places cracked to within 5 feet of the -ground. In fact, as a chapel, the building was ruined, though showing -little traces, externally, of the damage done, so that it is -possible—unless a stray shepherd happened to look in—that its -condition would for the first time become known upon the arrival of the -pilgrims on the eve of 5th August.</p> - -<p>“We stood long watching our departing foe, and then three very sobered -men dropped down silently and quickly that afternoon upon Susa, thinking -of what might have been our fate.”<a name="page_275" id="page_275"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII<br /><br /> -<small>LANDSLIPS IN THE MOUNTAINS</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">“S</span>IR W. MARTIN CONWAY has been good enough to allow me to extract from -<i>The Alps from End to End</i> the following account of the destruction of -Elm. Mountain falls have a special interest for all who travel in -Switzerland, where the remains of so many are visible.</p> - -<p>“The Himalayas are, from a geological point of view, a young set of -mountain ranges; they still tumble about on an embarrassingly large -scale. The fall, which recently made such a stir, began on 6th September -1893. That day the Maithana Hill (11,000 feet), a spur of a large -mountain mass, pitched bodily rather than slid, into the valley.</p> - -<p>“‘Little could be seen of the terrible occurrence, for clouds of dust -instantly arose, which darkened the neighbourhood and fell for miles -around, whitening the ground and the trees until all seemed to be snow -covered. The foot of the hill had been undermined by springs until there -was no longer an adequate base, and in the twinkling of an eye a large -part of the<a name="page_276" id="page_276"></a> mountain slid down, pushed forward, and shot across the -valley, presenting to the little river a lofty and impervious wall, -against which its waters afterwards gathered. Masses of rocks were -hurled a mile away, and knocked down trees on the slopes across the -valley. Many blocks of dolomitic limestone, weighing from 30 to 50 tons, -were sent like cannon-shots through the air. The noise was terrific, and -the frightened natives heard the din repeated at intervals for several -days, for the first catastrophe was succeeded by a number of smaller -slides. Even five months after the mountain gave way, every rainy day -was succeeded by falls of rocks. A careful computation gives the weight -of the enormous pile of rubbish at 800,000,000 tons.’</p> - -<p>“The Himalayas are indeed passing through their dramatic geological -period, when they give rise to such landslips as this at relatively -frequent intervals. Plenty of landslips quite as big have been recorded -in the last half-century, and, amongst the remote and uninhabited -regions of the great ranges, numbers more of which no record is made -constantly happen. The catastrophic period has ended for the Alps. -Landslips on a great scale seldom occur there now; when they do occur, -the cause of them is oftener the activity of man than of natural forces. -But of a great landslip in the Alps details are sure to be observed, and -we are enabled to form a picture of the occurrence.<a name="page_277" id="page_277"></a> When the Alps -tremble the nations quake; the Himalayas may shudder in their solitudes, -but the busy occidental world pays scant attention, unless gathering -waters threaten to spread ruin afar. Of the Gohna Lake we have been told -much, but little of the fall that caused it. Eye-witnesses appear not to -have been articulate. We can, however, form some idea of what it was -like from the minute and accurate account we possess of a great and -famous Alpine landslip. I refer to that which buried part of the village -of Elm, in Canton Glarus, on 11th September 1881.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a></p> - -<p>“Elm is the highest village in the Sernf Valley. Its position is fixed -by the proximity of a meadow-flat of considerable extent. Above this -three minor valleys radiate, two of which are separated from one another -by a mountain mass, whose last buttress was the Plattenbergkopf, a hill -with a precipitous side and a flat and wooded summit, which used to face -the traveller coming up the main valley. It was this hill that fell.</p> - -<p>“The cause of the fall was simple, and reflects little credit on Swiss -communal government. About half-way up the hill there dips into it a bed -of fine slate, excellent for school-slates. In the year 1868 concessions -were given by the commune for working<a name="page_278" id="page_278"></a> this slate for ten years without -any stipulation as to the method to be employed. Immense masses of the -rock were removed. A hole was made 180 mètres wide, and no supports were -left for the roof. It was pushed into the mountain to a depth of 65 -mètres! In 1878, when the concessions lapsed, the commune, by a small -majority, decided to work the quarry itself. Every burgher considered -that he had a right to work in the quarry when the weather was -unsuitable for farm labour. The place was therefore overcrowded on wet -days, and burdened with unskilful hands. The quarry, of course, did not -pay, and became a charge on the rates, but between eighty and one -hundred men drew wages from it intermittently.</p> - -<p>“The roof by degrees became visibly rotten. Lumps of rock used to fall -from it, and many fatal accidents occurred. The mass of the mountain -above the quarry showed a tendency to grow unstable, yet blasting went -forward merrily, and no precautions were taken. Cracks opened overhead -in all directions; water and earth used to ooze down through them. -Fifteen hundred feet higher up, above the top of the Plattenbergkopf, -the ground began to be rifted. In 1876 a large crack split the rock -across above the quarry roof, and four years later the mass thus -outlined fell away. In 1879 serious signs were detected of coming ruin -on a large scale. A great<a name="page_279" id="page_279"></a> crack split the mountain across behind the -top of the hill. The existence of this crack was well known to the -villagers, who had a special name for it. It steadily lengthened and -widened. By August 1881 it was over four mètres wide, and swallowed up -all the surface drainage. Every one seems then to have agreed that the -mountain would ultimately fall, but no one was anxious. The last part of -August and the first days of September were very wet. On 7th September -masses of rock began to fall from the hill; more fell on the 8th, and -strange sounds were heard in the body of the rock; work was at last -suspended in the quarry. On the 10th a commission of incompetent people -investigated the hill, and pronounced that there was no immediate -danger. They, however, ordered that work should cease in the quarry till -the following spring, whereat the workmen murmured. All through the 10th -and the morning of the 11th falls of rock occurred every quarter of an -hour or so. Some were large. They kept coming from new places. The -mountain groaned and rumbled incessantly, and there was no longer any -doubt that it was rotten through and through.</p> - -<p>“The 11th of September was a wet Sunday. Rocks and rock-masses kept -falling from the Plattenberg. The boys of the village were all agog with -excitement, and could hardly be prevented by their parents<a name="page_280" id="page_280"></a> from going -too near the hill. In the afternoon a number of men gathered at an inn -in the upper village, just at the foot of the labouring rocks, to watch -the falls. They called to Meinrad Rhyner, as he passed, carrying a -cheese from an alp, to join them, but he refused, ‘not fearing for -himself, but for the cheese.’ Another group of persons assembled in a -relative’s house to celebrate a christening. A few houses immediately -below the quarry were emptied, but the people from them did not move -far. At four o’clock Schoolmaster Wyss was standing at his window, watch -in hand, registering the falls and the time of their occurrence. -Huntsman Elmer was on his doorstep looking at the quarry through a -telescope. Every one was more or less on the <i>qui vive</i>, but none -foresaw danger to himself.</p> - -<p>“Many of the people in the lower village, called Müsli, which was the -best part of a mile distant from the quarry, and separated from it by a -large flat area, were quite uninterested. They were making coffee, -milking cows, and doing the like small domestic business.</p> - -<p>“Suddenly, at a quarter past five, a mass of the mountain broke away -from the Plattenbergkopf. The ground bent and broke up, the trees upon -it nodded, and folded together, and the rock engulfed them in its bosom -as it crashed down over the quarry, shot across the streams, dashing -their water<a name="page_281" id="page_281"></a> in the air, and spread itself out upon the flat. A -greyish-black cloud hovered for a while over the ruin, and slowly passed -away. No one was killed by this fall, though the <i>débris</i> reached within -a dozen yards of the inn where the sightseers were gathered. The -inhabitants of the upper village now began to be a little frightened. -They made preparations for moving the aged and sick persons, and some of -their effects. People also came up from the lower villages to help, and -to see the extent of the calamity. Others came together to talk, and the -visitors who had quitted the inn returned to it. Some went into their -houses to shut the windows and keep out the dust. No one was in any -hurry.</p> - -<p>“This first fall came from the east side of the Plattenbergkopf; -seventeen minutes later a second and larger fall descended from the west -side. The gashes made by the two united below the peak, and left its -enormous mass isolated and without support. The second fall must have -been of a startling character, for Schoolmaster Wyss forgot his watch -after it. It overwhelmed the inn and four other houses, killed a score -of persons, and drove terror into all beholders, so that they started -running up the opposite hill. Oswald Kubli, one of the last to leave the -inn, saw this fall from close at hand. He was standing outside the inn<a name="page_282" id="page_282"></a> -when he heard some one cry out: ‘My God, here comes the whole thing -down!’ Every one fled, most making for the Düniberg. ‘I made four or -five strides, and then a stone struck Geiger and he fell without a word. -Pieces from the ruined inn flew over my head. My brother Jacob was -knocked down by them.’ Again a dark cloud of dust enveloped the ruin. As -it cleared off, Huntsman Elmer could see, through his glass, the people -racing up the hill (the Düniberg) ‘like a herd of terrified chamois.’ -When they had reached a certain height most of them stood still and -looked back. Some halted to help their friends, others to take breath.</p> - -<p>“‘Of those who were before me,’ relates Meinrad Rhyner, ‘some were for -turning back to the valley to render help, but I called to them to fly. -Heinrich Elmer was carrying boxes, and was only twenty paces behind me -when he was killed. There were also an old man and woman, who were -helping along their brother, eighty years old; they might have been -saved if they had left him. I ran by them, and urged them to hasten.’</p> - -<p>“Of all who took refuge on the Düniberg, only six escaped destruction by -the third fall, and they held on their way, and went empty-handed. Ruin -overtook the kind and the covetous together.</p> - -<p>“At this time, before the third fall, fear came<a name="page_283" id="page_283"></a> also upon the cattle. A -cow, grazing far down the valley, bellowed aloud and started running for -the hillside with tail out-straightened. She reached a place of safety -before her meadow was overwhelmed. Cats and chickens likewise saved -themselves, and two goats sought and found salvation on the steps of the -parsonage.</p> - -<p>“During the four minutes that followed the second fall every one seems -to have been running about, with a tendency, as the moments passed, to -conclude that the worst was over. Then those who were watching the -mountain from a distance beheld the whole upper portion of the -Plattenbergkopf, 10,000,000 cubic mètres of rock, suddenly shoot from -the hillside. The forest upon it bent ‘like a field of corn in the -wind,’ before being swallowed up. ‘The trees became mingled together -like a flock of sheep.’ The hillside was all in movement, and ‘all its -parts were playing together.’ The mass slid, or rather shot down, with -extraordinary velocity, till its foot reached the quarry. Then the upper -part pitched forward horizontally, straight across the valley and on to -the Düniberg. People in suitable positions could at this moment clearly -see through beneath it to the hillside beyond. They also saw the people -in the upper village, and on the Düniberg, racing about wildly. No -individual masses of rock could be seen in the avalanche,<a name="page_284" id="page_284"></a> except from -near at hand; it was a dense cloud of stone, sharply outlined below, -rounded above. The falling mass looked so vast that Schoolmaster Wyss -thought it was going to fill up the whole valley. A cloud of dust -accompanied it, and a great wind was flung before it. This wind swept -across the valley and overthrew the houses in its path ‘like haycocks.’ -The roofs were lifted first, and carried far, then the wooden portions -of the houses were borne bodily through the air, ‘just as an autumn -storm first drives off the leaves and then the dead branches themselves -from the trees.’ In many cases wooden ruins were dropped from the air on -to the top of the stone <i>débris</i> when the fall was at an end. -Eye-witnesses say that trees were blown about ‘like matches,’ that -houses were ‘lifted through the air like feathers,’ and ‘thrown like -cards against the hillside,’ ‘that they bent, trembled, and then broke -up like little toys’ before the avalanche came to them. Hay, furniture, -and the bodies of men were mixed with the house-ruins in the air. Some -persons were cast down by the blast and raised again. Others were -carried through the air and deposited in safe positions; others, again, -were hurled upward to destruction and dropped in a shattered state as -much as a hundred mètres away. Huntsman Elmer relates as follows:</p> - -<p>“‘My son Peter was in Müsli (nearly a mile from<a name="page_285" id="page_285"></a> the quarry) with his -wife and child. He sought to escape with them by running. On coming to a -wall, he took the child from his wife and leaped over. Turning round, he -saw the woman reach out her hand to another child. At that moment the -wind lifted him, and he was borne up the hillside. My married daughter, -also in Müsli, fled with two children. She held the younger in her arms -and led the other. This one was snatched away from her, but she found -herself, not knowing how, some distance up the hillside, lying on the -ground face downwards, with the baby beneath her, both uninjured.’</p> - -<p>“The avalanche, as has been said, shot with incredible swiftness -horizontally across the valley. It pitched on to the Düniberg, struck it -obliquely, and was thus deflected down the level and fertile -valley-floor, which it covered in a few seconds, to the distance of -nearly a mile and over its whole width, with a mass of rock <i>débris</i> -more than 30 feet thick. Most of the people on the hillside were -instantly killed, the avalanche falling on to them and crushing them -flat, ‘as an insect is crushed into a red streak under a man’s foot.’ -Only six persons here escaped. Two of them were almost reached by the -rocks, the others were whirled aloft through the air and deposited in -different directions. One survivor describes how the dust-cloud overtook -him,<a name="page_286" id="page_286"></a> ‘and came between him and his breath!’ He sank face downwards on -the ground, feeling powerless to go further. Looking back, he saw -‘stones flying above the dust-cloud. In a moment all seemed to be over. -I stood up and climbed a few yards to a spring of water to wash out the -dust, which filled my mouth and nose’ (all survivors on the Düniberg had -the same experience). ‘All round was dark and buried in dust.’</p> - -<p>“It was only when the avalanche had struck the Düniberg and began to -turn aside from it—the work of a second or two—that the people in the -lower village, far down along the level plain, had any suspicion that -they were in danger. Twenty seconds later all was over. Some of them who -were on a bridge had just time to run aside, not a hundred yards, and -were saved, but most were killed where they stood. The avalanche swept -away half the village. Its sharply defined edge cut one house in two. -All within the edge were destroyed, all without were saved. Almost the -only persons wounded were those in the bisected house. Huntsman Elmer -with his telescope, and Schoolmaster Wyss with his watch, whose houses -were just beyond the area of ruin, beheld the dust-cloud come rolling -along, ‘like smoke from a cannon’s mouth, but black,’ filling the whole -width of the flat valley to about twice the height of a<a name="page_287" id="page_287"></a> house. The din -seemed to them not very great, and the wind, which, in front of the -cloud, carried the houses away like matchwood, did not reach them. -Others describe the crash and thunder of the fall as terrific; it -affected people differently. All agree that it swallowed up every other -sound, so that shrieks of persons near at hand were inaudible. The mass -seemed to slide or shoot along the ground rather than to roll. One or -two men had a race for life and won it, but most failed to escape who -were not already in a place of safety. Fridolin Rhyner, an -eleven-year-old boy, kept his head better than any one else in the -village, and succeeded in eluding the fall. He saw, too, ‘how Kaspar -Zentner reached the bridge as the fall took place, and how he started -running as fast as he could, but was caught by the flood of rocks near -Rhyner’s house; he jumped aside, however, into a field, limped across -it, got over the wall into the road, and so just escaped.’</p> - -<p>“The last phase of the catastrophe is the hardest to imagine, and was -the most difficult to foresee. The actual facts are these. Ten million -cubic mètres of rock fell down a depth (on an average) of about 450 -mètres, shot across the valley and up the opposite (Düniberg) slope to a -height of 100 mètres, where they were bent 25° out of their first -direction, and poured, almost like a liquid, over a horizontal<a name="page_288" id="page_288"></a> plane, -covering it, uniformly, throughout a distance of 1500 mètres and over an -area of about 900,000 square mètres to a depth of from 10 to 20 mètres. -The internal friction of the mass and the friction between it and the -ground were insignificant forces compared with the tremendous momentum -that was generated by the fall. The stuff flowed like a liquid. No -wonder the parson, seeing the dust-cloud rolling down the valley, -thought it was only dust that went so far. His horror, when the cloud -cleared off and he beheld the solid grey carpet, beneath which one -hundred and fifteen of his flock were buried with their houses and their -fields, may be imagined. He turned his eyes to the hills, and lo! the -familiar Plattenbergkopf had vanished and a hole was in its place.</p> - -<p>“The roar of the fall ceased suddenly. Silence and stillness supervened. -Survivors stood stunned where they were. Nothing moved. Then a great cry -and wailing arose in the part of the village that was left. People began -to run wildly about, some down the valley, some up. As the dust-cloud -grew thinner the wall-like side of the ruin appeared. It was quite dry. -All the grass and trees in the neighbourhood were white with dust. Those -who beheld the catastrophe from a distance hurried down to look for -their friends. Amongst them was Burkhard Rhyner, whose house was -untouched<a name="page_289" id="page_289"></a> at the edge of the <i>débris</i>. He ran to it and found, he said, -‘the doors open, a fire burning in the kitchen, the table laid, and -coffee hot in the coffee-pot, but no living soul was left.’ All had run -forth to help or see, and been overwhelmed—wife, daughter, son, son’s -wife, and two grandchildren. ‘I am the sole survivor of my family.’ Few -were the wounded requiring succour; few the dead whose bodies could be -recovered. Here and there lay a limb or a trunk. On the top of one of -the highest <i>débris</i> mounds was a head severed from its body, but -otherwise uninjured. Every dead face that was not destroyed wore a look -of utmost terror. The crushed remains of a youth still guarded with -fragmentary arms the body of a little child. There were horrors enough -for the survivors to endure. The memory of them is fresh in their minds -to the present day.</p> - -<p>“Such was the great catastrophe of Elm. The hollow in the hills, whence -the avalanche fell, can still be seen, and the pile of ruin against and -below the Düniberg; but almost all the rest of the <i>débris</i>-covered area -has been reclaimed and now carries fields, which were ripening to -harvest when I saw them. The fallen rocks, some big as houses, have been -blasted level; soil has been carried from afar and spread over the ruin. -A channel, 40 feet deep or more, has been cut through it for the river, -so that the structure of the rock-blanket can still<a name="page_290" id="page_290"></a> be seen. The roots -of young trees now grasp stones that took part in that appalling flight -from their old bed of thousands of years to their present place of -repose. The valley has its harvests again, and the villagers go about -their work as their forefathers did, but they remember the day of their -visitation, and to the stranger coming amongst them they tell the tragic -tale with tears in their eyes and white horror upon their faces.”<a name="page_291" id="page_291"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII<br /><br /> -<small>SOME TERRIBLE EXPERIENCES</small></h2> - -<p class="nind"><span class="letra">A</span>LL must have noticed, summer after summer, in the daily papers, a -recital from time to time under some such heading as, “Perils of the -Alps,” of a variety of disasters to Germans or Austrians on mountains -the names of which are unfamiliar to English people or even to English -climbers. Many young men, of little leisure and of slight means, develop -a passionate love for the peaks of their native land. The minor ranges -of Austria and Germany offer few difficulties to really first-class, -properly equipped parties, but nasty places can be found on most of -them, and the very fact that they do not boast of glaciers removes the -chief argument against solitary ascents.</p> - -<p>The Rax, near Vienna, is a mountain which can be reached in a few hours -from that city, and while a good path has been laid out to the summit, -many other routes requiring climbing—by climbing I mean the use of the -hands—are available for the hardier class of tourists. One route in -particular, that from<a name="page_292" id="page_292"></a> the Kaiserbrunn through the Wolfsthal, appears to -be really difficult, and is unfit for a man to ascend alone unless he is -a climber of great skill. A terrible experience fell to the lot of a -young Viennese compositor, employed on the <i>Neue Freie Presse</i>, and by -name Emil Habl. He set out by himself to make the expedition referred -to, and, having fallen and broken his leg, he managed, thanks to his -pluck and endurance, to escape with his life. “Despite injuries which -made it impossible for him to stand,” says a writer in one of Messrs -Newnes’ publications, from which I am courteously permitted to quote, -“he yet succeeded in conveying himself from the scene of his accident -into the valley in the neighbourhood of human dwellings. Three dreadful -days and three awful nights lasted that memorable descent—a descent -which can easily be made in two hours by any one able to walk. It may -almost certainly be said that the case is without a parallel in the -annals of Alpine accidents.”</p> - -<p>Herr Habl had ascended the Rax on previous occasions, and twice before -by the Wolfsthal. It is the custom on many of the easier Austrian -mountains to mark the way by painted strips on the rocks. These are -sometimes very useful, but occasionally they tempt the tourist into -tracks which may be beyond his powers, or lure him on till, at last, -losing sight of them, he is induced to strike out a route—<a name="page_293" id="page_293"></a>and perhaps -an impracticable one—for himself. The Wolfsthal route up the Rax is -marked in green, but the paint had worn off in many places, and after a -time Herr Habl could no longer trace it. At last the way was barred by a -precipice, but while pausing in uncertainty beneath it, the climber -noticed two iron clamps fixed far apart on the face of the cliff, and -argued that they must at one time have supported ladders and formed, -perhaps, part of a hunter’s path. He made an attempt to scramble up the -rock, in spite of the absence of the ladder, but when more than 30 feet -up saw that it was impossible to scale it. He therefore determined to -return, but a loose stone, giving way beneath him, he was precipitated -from his precarious hold, and fell with a crash straight to the bottom. -This happened at about 7.30 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, and for a long time he lay -unconscious. When he came to himself again he was suffering greatly.</p> - -<p>“The first thing I noticed,” he says, “was a terrible pain in my right -leg, my head, and left side; I was also bleeding profusely from several -wounds. At the same time, considering the fearful fall I had had, I felt -thankful I had not been killed outright. On trying to get up I -discovered, to my utter horror, that I had broken my right shin-bone. It -was quite impossible to rise. The break was about 6 inches below the -knee, and at the first glance I knew it to be a very bad fracture. It -was what the doctors<a name="page_294" id="page_294"></a> call an ‘open’ fracture—that is, the bone -projected through the skin.”</p> - -<p>It was in vain that he shouted for help. Tourists seldom pass that way, -and it was useless to expect any one to hear him. To make matters worse, -the weather had changed, and rain now fell heavily. But Herr Habl did -not lose courage. He writes: “Unless I wanted miserably to die a -long-drawn-out, hideous death from hunger and thirst, I knew <i>I must -save myself</i>. I decided not to lose another moment in fruitless -brooding, and waiting, and shouting, but to act at once.</p> - -<p>“I perceived that first of all I must set my broken leg and bandage it -in some rough fashion. In spite of the agony it caused me, I rolled over -and over the ground in different directions like a bale of goods—a few -yards here and a few yards there—until I had collected a sufficient -quantity of fallen branches, bits of fir and moss; this strange -collecting process took me some hours. The next thing was to tear off -the sleeves of my shirt and such other parts of my underwear as I could -spare. On my mountain excursions I always took with me a box containing -iodoform gauze and cambric; and now these things were more than welcome.</p> - -<p>“At last, then, I was ready to begin the operation. But, good heavens, -what agony! My deadliest enemy I would not wish such excruciating pains -as I suffered<a name="page_295" id="page_295"></a> when setting the poor splintered bone—which, be it -remembered, was not broken straight across. The dreadful splinters, -indeed, dug deep into my flesh. Not regarding the pain (although nearly -fainting therewith) I exerted my whole force, and at last succeeded in -getting the bone into what, as far as I could judge, was its right -position. Then I wound the iodoform gauze round it, and over that I put -the cambric, the bits of underclothing, and a layer of moss. Next in the -queer operation came my alpenstock and some boughs in place of splints; -and finally I tied the whole together with the string, my hat-line, and -neck-tie.”</p> - -<p>During the rest of the day the agonising descent continued, down rocks -which were difficult even for a sound man to ascend. As evening -approached Herr Habl bethought him of the need of food, but, alas! all -was gone from his knapsack, doubtless left at the spot where the -bandages had been put on. To regain this point was out of the question, -so berries and leaves were resorted to, to appease the craving of -hunger.</p> - -<p>That night was passed in pain and weariness. The rain never ceased, the -poor wounded man was soaked to the skin. The next day, from dawn to dark -the fearful descent continued, and was followed by another night of -indescribable misery. The morning after Herr Habl could hardly drag -himself a yard,<a name="page_296" id="page_296"></a> and the temptation to lie down and await the end was -very great. Still, for the sake of his parents at home, he continued his -efforts, though bleeding now from the contact of the sharp rocks over -which he pushed himself in a half-lying, half-sitting posture. By four -o’clock that afternoon it seemed as if human endurance could bear no -more, and for two hours he lay in an awful apathy he could not shake -off. Then, when all hope seemed over, help came, for he heard the sound -of human voices, and this so stirred him that once more he began to -crawl downward, though unable to obtain any reply to his cries for -assistance. Another night passed, and during it, for the first time, he -got some sleep. The next morning, he once more dragged his poor -lacerated body downwards and at last came in sight of some houses. -Calling feebly for help, he was delighted beyond measure to receive an -answer, and soon he was carried to Hôtel Kaiserbrunn, and the same -evening transported to the hospital at Vienna. He concludes his most -interesting account by remarking: “I do not think that my accident, -terrible as it is, has cured me of my love of mountaineering. But -certainly the remembrance of those three terrible days and nights will -deter me from again undertaking difficult climbs by myself.”</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_364a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_364a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_364a_sml.jpg" width="324" height="226" alt="A glacier lake. By Royston Le Blond." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A glacier lake. By Royston Le Blond.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_364b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_364b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_364b_sml.jpg" width="329" height="225" alt="Taking off the rope at the end of the climb." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Taking off the rope at the end of the climb.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_364c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_364c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_364c_sml.jpg" width="319" height="239" alt="Amongst the Sèracs." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Amongst the Sèracs.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_364d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_364d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_364d_sml.jpg" width="327" height="227" alt="Water at last. - -To face p. 297." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Water at last. -<br /> -To face p. 297.</span> -</p> - -<p>An adventure, having a happier termination, befell some friends of mine -in the Bregaglia group,<a name="page_297" id="page_297"></a> owing to the marking of a route with paint. -The district was but little known to them, so they were glad to follow -where the marks led. One of the party, writing in <i>The Alpine Journal</i>, -says:</p> - -<p>“The descent began by a grass ledge. After a few yards this was suddenly -closed by overhanging rocks. François, who was first, appeared to us to -plunge down a precipice. He answered our criticism by pointing to the -red triangles. They indicated the only means of advance. It was -requisite to go down a dozen feet of nearly vertical rock by the help of -two grass tufts, and then for several yards to walk across a horizontal -crack which gave foot-hold varying from 2 inches to nothing. Nominal -support—help in balance—could be gained at first by digging axes into -grass overhead; further on hand-hold was obtainable. François walked -across without a moment’s hesitation, but we did not despise the rope. -This <i>mauvais pas</i> would not, perhaps, trouble younger cragsmen. It came -upon us unprepared and when somewhat tired. But to indicate a route -including such an obstacle to unsuspecting tourists as a Station Path is -surely rash. A practical joke that may lead to fatal results should only -be resorted to under exceptional circumstances—as, for example, in the -case of an hotel bore. There can be little doubt that in this instance -the Milanese section entrusted their paint-pot<a name="page_298" id="page_298"></a> to a conscious, if -unconscientious, humorist; for we found afterwards that he had continued -his triangles through the village, along the high road, and finished up -only on the ticket office.”</p> - -<p>The following terrible experience did not, it is true, happen to a party -of mountaineers, but as <i>The Alpine Journal</i>, from which I take my -account, has considered a notice of it appropriate to its pages, I -include it amongst my tales.</p> - -<p>“A distinguished aeronaut, Captain Charbonnet, of Lyons, married a young -girl from Turin. On the evening of their wedding, in October, 1893, they -set out in Captain Charbonnet’s balloon ‘Stella,’ and covered about 10 -miles on their way towards Lyons.</p> - -<p>“Next morning, accompanied by two young Italians named Durando and -Botto, one of whom had made many previous ascents with Captain -Charbonnet, they started again. Stormy weather seemed to be brewing, and -after rising to a height of 3000 mètres they were caught in a current. -At Saluggia they nearly touched ground, then leapt up again to 4000, and -presently to 6000 mètres. About 2.30 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> the balloon began to descend -rapidly, and they had some difficulty in stopping it at 3000 mètres.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:310px;"> -<a href="images/i_367a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_367a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_367a_sml.jpg" width="310" height="435" alt="The balloon “Stella” starting from Zermatt to make the -first passage of the Alps by balloon." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The balloon “Stella” starting from Zermatt to make the -first passage of the Alps by balloon.<br /> -<i>To face page</i> 293.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:380px;"> -<a href="images/i_367b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_367b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_367b_sml.jpg" width="372" height="265" alt="A moment after the balloon started. - -To face page 298." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A moment after the balloon started.</span> -</p> - -<p>“Here they were in dense clouds, and bitterly cold; quite ignorant, -moreover, of their position.<a name="page_299" id="page_299"></a> Captain Charbonnet made his crew lie -down in the car, himself leaning out in order to try if he could catch a -glimpse of any point from which he could learn his bearings. The balloon -was drifting at a great rate, and nothing could be done to check it. -Presently there was a shock, and Captain Charbonnet was thrown to the -bottom of the car, by a heavy blow over his left eye.</p> - -<p>“The balloon rebounded, and dashing across a gully struck the other side -of it, and it finally settled down on a steep rocky spur on the east -side of the Bessanese (3632 mètres = 11,917 feet), just above the small -glacier of Salau. It had struck the wall of the mountain which faces the -Rifugio Gastaldi, at a height of about 3000 mètres (9843 feet).</p> - -<p>“The aeronauts reached the ground a good deal shaken and bruised, but -none of them, except the leader, suffering from any serious injuries.... -Their sole provision was one bottle of wine; but they were fairly well -off for covering, and they cut up the balloon to supply deficiencies. In -the night a violent storm came on, to add to their misery. In spite of -his injuries, Captain Charbonnet kept up the spirits of his companions -as well as might be, but towards morning his powers failed, and when day -dawned his young wife, a girl of eighteen, had some difficulty in -bringing him round.<a name="page_300" id="page_300"></a></p> - -<p>“They started to descend the snow-slope, Durando going first, and making -steps to the best of his power with his feet ‘and with a long key which -he happened to have in his pocket.’ Of course they had neither nails nor -poles; and, by a fatal imprudence, they did not tie themselves together, -though ropes must have been in plenty in the wreck of the balloon.</p> - -<p>“Presently Charbonnet slipped. He was held up by his wife and Botto; but -a few minutes later he disappeared into a hidden crevasse. The others -could see him far below, but as he neither moved nor answered their -call, they rightly assumed that he was beyond the reach of any human -help, and proceeded downwards.</p> - -<p>“With infinite difficulty, owing to their utter ignorance of the -country, and after another night spent in the open air, they found a -path which brought them to the hut under the Rocca Venoni. Thence a -shepherd guided them to the Cantina della Mussa, where they were at -first taken for deserters or spies; the lady, it should be said, had -been obliged to put on a suit of her husband’s clothes, her own having -been torn to pieces.</p> - -<p>“The sight of her hair and bracelets convinced the inhabitants of the -true state of the case; a telegram was sent to Turin, and a message to -Balme, and a search party came up from the latter<a name="page_301" id="page_301"></a> place in the -afternoon. Captain Charbonnet’s body was recovered the next day. It was -found at the bottom of a crevasse more than 60 feet deep, and completely -doubled up; but medical examination showed that his death was primarily -due to the injury received when the balloon first struck.”</p> - -<p>The first passage of the Alps by balloon was made in September 1903, by -Captain Spelterini, of Zürich, accompanied by Dr Hermann Seiler and -another friend. They started from Zermatt, crossed the Mischabel group, -passed over the valley of Saas, then rose above the Weissmies range, and -approached the Lago Maggiore so closely that they were able to converse -with the passengers of a steamer. They then rose again and spent the -night above the mountains not far from the Gotthard. The next day it -would have been possible to clear the Bernese Alps and descend somewhere -near Lucerne, but though Dr Seiler, who is a climber and was fully -equipped for a descent above the snow line, urged the attempt being made -to cross the chain, Captain Spelterini and his friend, unused to the -aspect of the higher peaks, considered it more prudent to descend, and -so the expedition came to an end after twenty hours aloft, during which -no discomfort from cold was experienced.</p> - -<p>When an accident happens in the Alps involving<a name="page_302" id="page_302"></a> loss of life, it is not -difficult to learn whatever facts may be known with regard to it, but -when climbers have a narrow escape from death the occurrence is often -hushed up and nothing said or written about the matter. And yet it is -just the narrow escapes that furnish the most interesting Alpine -narratives. Amongst them are few more exciting than a mishap on the -Matterhorn which happened in 1895, and is admirably described by an -onlooker, Mr Ernest Elliot Stock, in the pages of one of Messrs Newnes’ -periodicals, from which I am courteously permitted to quote a portion of -the tale.</p> - -<p>Mr Stock’s party consisted of himself, his sister, Mr Grogan (the -well-known traveller who first crossed Africa from South to North), Mr -Broadbent, and the guides, P. A. and Alois Biner, Peter Perrin, and -Zurmatter. An American of no climbing experience, with Joseph Biner and -Felix Julen, was on the mountain at the same time, and both parties -having made the ascent by the ordinary route, were coming down the same -way, and had descended in safety to just below “Moseley’s Platte” when -the incident which so nearly cost them their lives took place. They were -on a steep slope, and the American party was slightly in advance. Mr -Stock writes:</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_373a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_373a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_373a_sml.jpg" width="236" height="328" alt="The Matterhorn from the Hörnli Ridge." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Matterhorn from the Hörnli Ridge.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_373c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_373c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_373c_sml.jpg" width="221" height="327" alt="The Matterhorn from the Furgg Glacier." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Matterhorn from the Furgg Glacier.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_373b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_373b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_373b_sml.jpg" width="224" height="348" alt="Joseph Biner." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Joseph Biner.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:300px;"> -<a href="images/i_373d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_373d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_373d_sml.jpg" width="242" height="331" alt="The Matterhorn Hut. - -To face p. 302" /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">The Matterhorn Hut. -<br /> -To face p. 302</span> -</p> - -<p>“We had been working slowly, and at a slight zig-zag, down this for some -150 feet, only one member of<a name="page_303" id="page_303"></a> the party moving at a time, and keeping -carefully within the steps cut by the leader, when suddenly a flat -stone, some 6 inches across, became detached from a small pile either to -the side of or directly behind me—possibly loosened by our passage or -picked up by the rope as it tautened between myself and Peter Biner, who -came next. Peter’s cry of warning was echoed by his brother at the tail -of the party, and I half turned to see it slipping past on the right.</p> - -<p>“Reaching out with my axe I endeavoured to stop it, but its impetus had -become too great. Getting upon its edge it rolled and struck a small -rock; then jumped some 20 feet down the ice-slope, narrowly missing -Perrin and ‘America,’ and struck again upon a larger and flatter rock, -when, amidst a flight of smaller stones, it bounded outwards and -downwards, striking the leading guide, Joseph Biner, full and square on -the head. He fell as though he had been shot, dragging ‘America’ after -him amidst a perfect shower of snow and stones. Julen, who came third, -with the greatest presence of mind drove his ice-axe hard and deep into -the ice, took a turn round it with his left arm, and, though dragged -violently from his steps, to our intense relief held on.</p> - -<p>“But we were in an awkward plight. Poor Joseph half lay, half hung, -without movement, at the end of some 30 feet of rope, bleeding copiously -from a deep<a name="page_304" id="page_304"></a> gash in the head and another across the forehead caused by -his fall; ‘America’ clung to a small rock projecting from the snow, -beating a tattoo with his boots on the ice and wailing dismally; Julen -held the two by favour of his ice-axe and firmly planted feet only. For -a space no one moved, excepting to get such anchorage as was possible -upon the spur of the moment, each expecting a rope-jerk, the forerunner -of a swift and battered end in the ice-fall of the Furgg Glacier -thousands of feet below.</p> - -<p>“The guides for a time seemed utterly stunned by the catastrophe, and to -all suggestions could only reply with muttered prayers and exclamations. -So exasperating did this become at last, with the thought of the man -below bleeding to death, if not dead already, that Mr Grogan, who had -vainly been endeavouring to bring the guides to a sense of the position, -quietly slipped the rope, and, amid a storm of protest from them, -traversed out some distance to avoid a patch of loose stones, and -descended inwards again, cutting his steps as he went, till he reached a -spot immediately below the wounded man. Poor Joseph hung with his head -buried in a patch of snow, and in an extremely awkward position to reach -from above. Mr Grogan, however, refused to be daunted by the -difficulties, and we were treated to a fine piece of ice-craft during -his descent.”</p> - -<p>After a little time Mr Grogan managed to cut a<a name="page_305" id="page_305"></a> seat in the slope of ice -and placing the still breathing but insensible man in it, he bandaged -the wounds on his head, and before long had the satisfaction of seeing -him recover his senses. With great difficulty, as he was very weak and -shaken, poor Joseph was helped down the mountain, and at last every one -arrived safe and sound at the lower hut.</p> - -<p>There is no doubt that Joseph owed his life to Mr Grogan’s skill, -promptness, and courage. Had the travellers in the party following -“America’s” been of the usual type of tourist, who is hauled up and let -down the Matterhorn, one dare not think what would probably have been -the result, for the description Mr Stock gives of the behaviour of his -guides seems in no way exaggerated. I edit this account in sight of the -very spot where the accident occurred, and I have made careful enquiries -here as to the accuracy of the story, and am assured that it is true in -every detail. It is a pleasure to feel that a fellow-countryman should -show so brilliant an example to those who were not willing and probably -would have hardly been able to rescue their comrade, although to attempt -such a task was one of the prior obligations of their profession.</p> - -<p>To be bombarded by falling stones in the Alps is bad enough. To be -hurled from one’s foot-hold by a flock of eagles seems to me even more -appalling. Though on one occasion, when on the slopes of a<a name="page_306" id="page_306"></a> bleak and -rocky peak in Lapland, in company with my husband, a pair of eagles came -screaming so close to us that we drove them away by brandishing our -ice-axes and throwing stones at them, I did not till recently believe -that there could be positive danger to a climbing party from an -onslaught by these birds. It was only a few weeks ago that taking up one -of Messrs Newnes’ publications I came upon an account of a tragedy in -the Maritime Alps caused by an attack from eagles. On applying to the -editor of the magazine in question, he kindly allowed me to make some -extracts from a striking article by Mons. Antoine Neyssel. This -gentleman with a friend, Mons. Joseph Monand, was making a series of -ascents in the Maritime Alps with Sospello as their headquarters. From -here they took a couple of guides and got all ready for a climb on the -following morning, 23rd July. During the evening the amazing news -reached them that a postman, while crossing a high pass, had been -attacked and nearly killed by eagles. They at once went into the cottage -where the poor man lay unconscious on two chairs, a pool of blood -beneath him and his clothes torn to ribbons. A few days later he died -from the terrible injuries he had received.</p> - -<p>Though much shocked at the sad event, the climbers believed that their -party of four would be<a name="page_307" id="page_307"></a> quite safe, for each man had an ice-axe and some -carried rifles. So the next morning they set out, and, ascending higher -and higher, reached the glacier and put on the rope. They had forgotten -all about the ferocious birds when suddenly, as they traversed the upper -edge of a crevasse near the summit of their peak, the leading guide -stopped with an exclamation of horror. Close to them the ground was -strewn with feathers and marked with blood, doubtless the spot where the -postman was attacked. They passed on, however, and remembering that they -were a party of four, felt reassured. But soon after weird cries came to -their ears from below, followed by the whirr and beating of great wings. -Looking cautiously over the abyss, they saw a fight of eagles in -progress; feathers flew in the air and strange sounds came out of the -seething mass. It seemed to rise towards them, and in their insecure -position on the edge of a crevasse, they were badly placed to resist an -attack. The foot-hold was of frozen and slippery snow. Suddenly the -eagles burst up and around them. The guides immediately cut the rope and -each person did what he could to save himself. “Wherever possible,” says -Mons. Neyssel, “we simply raced over the frozen snow like maniacs. In -another moment they dashed upon us like an avalanche. I heard a shot—I -suppose Monand fired, but I did not: I do not know why.<a name="page_308" id="page_308"></a> The attack was -quite too dreadful for words. Speaking for myself, I remember that the -eagles struck me with stunning force with their wings, their hooked -beaks, and strong talons. Every part of my body seemed to be assailed -simultaneously. It was a fierce struggle for life or death. Strangely -enough, I remember nothing of what happened to my companions. I neither -saw nor heard anything of them after the first great rush of the eagles. -It is a miracle I was not hurled to death into the crevasse.</p> - -<p>“Do not ask me how long this weird battle lasted. It may have been five -or six minutes, or a quarter of an hour. I do not know. I grew feebler, -and felt almost inclined to give up the struggle, when the blood began -to trickle down my face and nearly blinded me. I knew that every moment -might be my last, and that I might be hurled into the crevasse. -Strangely enough, the prospect did not appal me. From this time onward I -defended myself almost mechanically, inclined every moment to give up -and lie down.</p> - -<p>“I gave no thought to the guides and my poor friend Monand. If I am -judged harshly for this, I regret it; but I could not help it. All at -once I heard loud, excited voices, but thought that these were merely -fantastic creations of my own brain. In a moment or two, however, I -could distinguish a<a name="page_309" id="page_309"></a> number of men laying about them fiercely with -sticks, and beating off the eagles.”</p> - -<p>The villagers, having watched the ascent through a telescope had come to -the rescue and had saved the lives of the writer and his two guides. His -poor friend, however, was dashed into the crevasse, at the bottom of -which his body was found five days later.<a name="page_310" id="page_310"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX<br /><br /> -<small>FALLING STONES AND FALLING BODIES</small></h2> - -<p class="nind">I AM indebted to the editor of <i>The Cornhill</i> and the author of an -article entitled “The Cup and the Lip” for permission to reprint -portions of a paper containing much shrewd wisdom, several accounts of -narrow escapes, and withal of a wittiness and freshness that brings to -the reader a keen blast of Alpine air and the memory, if by chance he be -a climber, of his own early days upon the mountains.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_383a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_383a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_383a_sml.jpg" width="326" height="224" alt="A hot day in summer on a mountain top." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A hot day in summer on a mountain top.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_383c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_383c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_383c_sml.jpg" width="330" height="228" alt="A summit near Saas." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A summit near Saas.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_383b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_383b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_383b_sml.jpg" width="329" height="226" alt="Luncheon on the way to the hut in winter." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Luncheon on the way to the hut in winter.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_383d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_383d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_383d_sml.jpg" width="330" height="225" alt="Luncheon in summer on the top of a glacier pass. - -To face p. 310." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Luncheon in summer on the top of a glacier pass. -<br /> -To face p. 310.</span> -</p> - -<p>The writer, after remarking that even in these days when the traveller, -by the purchase of a few climbing requisites, is inclined to consider -himself a mountaineer before he has ever set foot on a peak, goes on to -say that, in reality, “for the most of us the craft is long to learn, -the conquering hard. And in the experience of many there are two -distinct phases. There is the time when, flushed with youth and victory, -you seem to go on from strength to strength, faster from year to year, -more confident in foot and hand, more scornful of the rope which you -have seen so often used, not as a means of<a name="page_311" id="page_311"></a> safety, but as an -assistance to the progression of the weaker brethren, until one day your -foot unaccountably finds the step too small, or the bit of rock comes -away in your hand, or the outraged spirit of the mountains smites you -suddenly with a stone, and all is changed. Henceforth every well-worn -and half-despised precaution has a new meaning for you; it becomes a -point of honour to walk circumspectly, to turn the rope round every -helpful projection when the leader moves, and to mark and keep your -distance; and you begin to catch a little of the wisdom of your fathers. -It is not until the slip comes—as it comes to all—that you believe a -slip is possible; and were it not for slips the continual advance of cup -to lip might become in time monotonous and irksome, and mountaineering -nothing but a more laborious and elaborate form of walking up a damp -flight of stairs. But when it has come, and there has passed away the -result of the consequent shock to your self-esteem, and to other even -more sensitive portions of your person, there succeeds a new pride of -achievement, and you will have the advantages of the converted sinner -over the ninety-and-nine just persons whose knickerbockers are still -unriven. Furthermore, you will have commenced the graduate stage of your -mountaineering education. Unlucky, too, will you be if your experience -has not given you something<a name="page_312" id="page_312"></a> more than a juster estimate of your own -moral and physical excellence; for your misfortune, if you have chosen -your companions aright, will suddenly turn your grumbling hireling into -a friend as gentle and as patient as a nurse, and disclose in those who -were your friends qualities of calm and steadfastness never revealed in -the fret of the valley; while, if you need wine and oil for your wounds, -when you reach home again, you will find in the inn some English doctor, -asking nothing better than to devote the best part of his holiday to the -gratuitous healing of the stranger.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_387a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_387a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_387a_sml.jpg" width="246" height="331" alt="A tedious snow slope to ascend." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A tedious snow slope to ascend.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_387c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_387c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_387c_sml.jpg" width="256" height="330" alt="A sitting glissade and a quick descent." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A sitting glissade and a quick descent.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_387b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_387b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_387b_sml.jpg" width="227" height="308" alt="A glacier-capped summit." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A glacier-capped summit.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:330px;"> -<a href="images/i_387d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_387d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_387d_sml.jpg" width="227" height="329" alt="Italy to the left, Switzerland to the right. - -To face p. 312." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Italy to the left, Switzerland to the right. -<br /> -To face p. 312.</span> -</p> - -<p>“The form of my own awakening was not such as to require wine or oil or -consolation, and indeed, had I spoken of it at the time, would have -scarcely escaped ridicule. We had reached the summit of our pass, and -the guides and myself had decided that the steep wall of snow on the -further side was an admirable place for a glissade. Accordingly, we went -through the inevitable ritual of the summit, consumed as much sour bread -and wine as we could, with unerring inaccuracy applied the wrong names -to all the newly disclosed mountain-tops, adjusted the rope and prepared -for the descent. Unfortunately, we omitted to explain the particular -form of pleasure in which we were about to indulge to my companion, who -was ignorant alike of mountaineering and the German tongue. The result -was<a name="page_313" id="page_313"></a> simple: the second guide, who was in front, set off with his feet -together and his axe behind him; I followed in as correct an imitation -of his attitude as I could induce my body to assume; but the novice -stood still on the crest of the pass to ‘await in fitting silence the -event,’ and the rope tightened. The jerk, after nearly cutting me in -two, laid me on my back in the snow, and was then transmitted to the -guide, who was also pulled off his feet and plunged head foremost down. -Our combined weights drew after us both my companion and the chief -guide, who was taken unawares, and both came crushing upon me. We rolled -over and over, mutually pounding one another as we rolled; hats and -spectacles and axes preceded us, and huge snowballs followed in our -wake, until, breathless and humiliated, we had cleared the <i>schrund</i>, -and came to an ignominious halt on the flat snow below.</p> - -<p>“This was no very rude introduction to my climbing deficiencies, but -before the end of the season I had felt fear at the pit of my stomach. -We (that is A. T. and myself) had scrambled up an Austrian mountain, -and, on our way down, had come to where the little glacier intervenes -between the precipice and the little moraine heaps above the forest. The -glacier would hardly deserve the name in any other part of the Alps, so -small is it; but it makes up for what it lacks in size by its exceeding -steepness;<a name="page_314" id="page_314"></a> the hardness of its ice, and the ferocity (if one may -attribute personal characteristics to Nature) of the rock walls which -keep in its stream on either hand, hem it in so closely that I think it -must be always in deep shadow, even in the middle of a June day.</p> - -<p>“Here you must cross it very nearly on a level, and then skirt down its -further side between ice and rock for a few feet before you come to a -suitable place for the crossing of the big crevasse below you; and then -a short slide down old avalanche <i>débris</i> shoots you deliciously into -the sun again. The crossing of the glacier in the steps cut by the -numerous parties who have passed on previous days is an extremely simple -affair. But you must not hurry, for a slip could not be checked, and -would probably finish in the before-mentioned crevasse. We started, -however, in some fear; for a party ascending the mountains favoured us -with continual showers of stones of all sizes, and the higher they -climbed the more viciously came their artillery. Hence I was nervous and -apt to go carelessly when we reached the middle of the ice, and here the -noise began. I heard a strange, whizzing, whirring noise which sounded -strangely familiar, accompanied by a physical shiver on my part and a -curious knocking together of the knees; again and again it came, -followed each time by a slight dull thud; and, looking at the rocks -below us on each side, I saw a<a name="page_315" id="page_315"></a> little white puff of dust rising at -every concussion. Then I knew why the sound seemed familiar. I was -reminded how, as a panting schoolboy, I had toiled up a long dusty road -to a certain down with a rifle much too large for me, in the vain hope -of shooting my third-class, and how, as we bruised our shoulders at the -200 yards’ range, another young gentleman firing at the 400 yards at the -parallel range on the left, had mistaken his mark and fired across our -heads at the target beyond us on the right. Everything was present: the -indescribable whirring of the bullet, its horrible invisibility while it -flew, and the grey little cloud as it flattened itself on the white -paint of the target. The sensation was horrible, the tendency to hurry -irresistible, and but for my companion I should have risked slip and -crevasse and everything to get out of the line of fire. But my companion -remained absolutely steady; while he poured forth curses in every -language and every <i>patois</i> ever spoken in the Italian Tyrol, he still -moved his feet as deliberately, improved the steps with as much care and -minuteness as if he were a Chamonix guide conducting a Frenchman on the -Mer de Glace. I know he felt the position as acutely as I did, for when, -a week later, we had to cross the same place under a similar fire, and -the third member of the party was sent on in front with a large rope to -recut the steps, he turned to me with impressive<a name="page_316" id="page_316"></a> simplicity, and said, -‘<i>Adesso è quello in grande pericolo</i>. If he is hit, we cannot save -him.’ How long we took to cross I do not know. But when at last we -reached the other bank we cast the rope off with one impulse, and, -bending under the shelter of the rocks, ran where I had found climbing -hard in the morning, jumped the <i>bergschrund</i>, fell and rolled down the -snow under a final volley from the mountain, and lay long by the stream -panting and safe.</p> - -<p>“I suspect the danger here was far more apparent than real. My next -adventure with a falling stone was more real than I like to think of. -Four of us had been scrambling round the rocks beside the Ventina -Glacier, and were returning to our camp to lunch. By bad luck, as it -turned out, I reached level ground first, and, lying on my back amongst -great boulders, watched with amusement the struggles of my companions -who were about a hundred feet above me, apparently unable to get up or -down. They were screaming to me, but the torrent drowned their voices, -and I smoked my pipe in contentment. <i>Suave mari magno.</i> At last they -moved, and with them the huge rock which they had been endeavouring to -uphold and shouting to me to beware of. It crashed down towards me, but -I determined to stop where I was. The roughness of the ground would have -hindered my escape to any distance, and I calculated on stepping quickly -aside when my enemy had<a name="page_317" id="page_317"></a> declared himself for any particular path of -attack. So I did, but the stone at that moment broke in pieces, and, -quick as I was with desperation, one fragment was quicker still. It -caught me, glancing as I turned between the shoulder and the elbow, only -just touching me, as I suppose, for the bone was quite unhurt. Up I went -into the air and down I came among the stones, with all the wind knocked -out of me, large bruises all over me, not hurt, but very much -frightened.</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/i_394a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_394a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_394a_sml.jpg" width="253" height="362" alt="Unpleasant going over loose stones." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Unpleasant going over loose stones.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter"> -<a href="images/i_394b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_394b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_394b_sml.jpg" width="264" height="380" alt="On the crest of an old moraine. - -To face p. 317." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">On the crest of an old moraine. -<br /> -To face p. 317.</span> -</p> - -<p>“Such experiences as this leave no very lasting impression, and might -just as easily happen were the party accompanied by the best of guides. -But I hardly think that any guide would have been crack-brained enough -to take part in two expeditions which taught me what it feels like to -slip on rock and ice respectively. The first slip took place during the -winter. With one companion I was climbing in a long and not very -difficult gully on a Welsh mountain. The frost had just broken, and -there was more water in the pitches than was quite pleasant. It was very -cold water, and my hands, which had been frost-bitten the week before, -were still swathed in bandages. Hence progress was very slow, and at -last my friend took the lead to spare me. He was climbing over a big -overhanging stone jammed between the walls of the gully and forming an -excellent spout for the water, which was thus poured<a name="page_318" id="page_318"></a> conveniently down -his neck. I stood on the shelving floor of the gully in perfect safety, -and watched the shower-bath, which was gradually exhausting him. He -asked for his axe, and I, in a moment of madness, came near and handed -it up; his legs, which were all I could then see of him, were kicking in -the water about 5 feet above my head. What happened next I do not know, -but I shall always maintain that, seeing an eligible blade of grass -above him, he plunged the adze in and hauled with both hands. The blade -resented such treatment, and came out. Anyhow he fell on my head, and we -commenced a mad career down the way we had ascended, rather rolling than -falling, striking our heads and backs against the rocks, and apparently -destined for the stony valley upon which we had looked down between our -legs for hours. People who have escaped drowning say that, in what was -their struggle for life, their minds travelled back over their whole -history. I know that my brain at this moment suddenly acquired an -unusual strength. In a few seconds we were safe, but in those seconds -there was time for centuries of regret. There was no fear; that was to -come later. But I felt vividly that I was present as a spectator of my -own suicide, and thought myself a feeble kind of fool. Had it been on -the Dru or the Meije, I thought, it might have been worth it, but, -half-drowned, to plunge a poor 40<a name="page_319" id="page_319"></a> feet over the next pitch on a hill -not 3000 feet high, with a carriage road in sight, and a girl driving in -the cows for milking in Nant Francon! We did not roll far, and stuck -between the walls of the gully, where they narrowed. Then I arose and -shook myself, unhurt. My companion made me light his pipe, which cheered -me very much, and we each partook of an enormous mutton sandwich. Help -was near, for another party of three was climbing in the next gully, and -came to our shouts; one ran down to the farm for a hurdle, the rest -began the descent. For hours we seemed to toil, for my companion, though -with admirable fortitude he supported the pain of movement, had -temporarily no power over his legs and the lower part of his body. I -could do little, but the others worked like blacks, and just at dark we -reached the farm and the ministrations of a Welsh doctor, who told my -friend, quite erroneously, that there was nothing the matter with him, -pointed out a swelling on my face as big as a pigeon’s egg, which, he -said, would probably lead to erysipelas, and then departed into the -darkness.</p> - -<p>“A fall on ice has something in it more relentless, though, until the -last catastrophe, less violent. We had all been victims to the -flesh-pots of the valley, and were, perhaps, hardly fit for a long -ice-slope, when we began to cut up the last few feet to gain the <i>arête</i> -of our mountain. The incline seemed to<a name="page_320" id="page_320"></a> me very steep, and, third on the -rope, I was watching the leader at his labours, half pitying him for his -exertions, half envying him his immunity from the ice fragments which he -was sending down to me. Below me the fourth man had barely left the -great flat rock on which we had breakfasted; there was no reason to -think of danger; when to my horror I saw the leader cut a step, put out -his foot slowly, and then very slowly and deliberately sway over and -fall forwards and downwards against the ice. We were in a diagonal line, -but almost immediately beneath one another, and he swung quietly round -like a pendulum, his axe holding him to the slope, until he was -immediately beneath the second man. Very slowly, as it seemed, the rope -grew taut; the weight began to tug at his waist; and then he, too, -slowly and reflectively in the most correct mountaineering attitude, as -though he were embarking upon a well-considered journey, began to slide. -Now was the time for me to put into practice years of patient training. -I dug my toes in and stiffened my back, anchored myself to the ice, and -waited for the strain. It was an unconscionable time coming, and, when -it came, I still had time to think that I could bear it. Then the weight -of 27 stone in a remorseless way quietly pulled me from my standpoint, -as though my resistance were an impudence. Still, like the others, I -held my axe against the ice<a name="page_321" id="page_321"></a> and struggled like a cat on a polished -floor, always seeing the big flat rock, and thinking of the bump with -which we should bound from it, and begin our real career through the -air; when suddenly the bump came and we all fell together in a heap on -to the rock and the fourth man, who had stepped back upon it, my -crampons running into his leg, and my axe, released from the pressure, -going off through the air on the very journey which I had anticipated -for us all. The others were for a fresh attack on the malicious -mountain; but I was of milder mood, and very soon, torn and wiser, we -were off on a slower but more convenient path to the valley than had -seemed destined for us a few minutes before. But our cup was not yet -full. Having no axe with which to check a slip, I was placed at the head -of the line, and led slowly down, floundering a good deal for want of my -usual support. The great couloir was seamed across with a gigantic -crevasse, the angle of the slope being so sharp that the upper half -overhung, and we had only crossed in the morning by standing on the -lower lip, cutting hand-holes in the upper, and shoving up the leader -from the shoulder of the second man: hence, in descending, our position -was similar to that of a man on the mantel-shelf who should wish to -climb down into the fire itself. We chose the obvious alternative of a -jump to the curb, which was, I suppose,<a name="page_322" id="page_322"></a> about 15 feet below us and made -of steep ice with a deep and deceptive covering of snow. I jumped and -slid away with this covering, to be arrested in my course by a rude -jerk. I turned round indignant; but my companions were beyond my -reproaches. One by one, full of snow, eloquent, and bruised, they issued -slowly from the crevasse into which I had hurled them, and, heedless of -the humour of the situation, gloomily urged me downwards.</p> - -<p>“Some hours still passed before we reached our friendly Italian hut, -left some days before for a raid into Swiss territory; there on the -table were our provisions and shirts as we had left them, and a solemn -array of bottles full of milk carried up during our absence by our -shepherd friends; and there, on the pile, in stinging comment on our -late proceedings, lay a slip of paper, the tribute of some Italian -tourist, bearing the inscription ‘Omaggio ai bravi Inglesi ignoti.’ We -felt very much ashamed.</p> - -<p>“When the soup has been eaten and the pipes are lighted, and you sit -down outside your hut for the last talk before bed, you will find your -guides’ tongues suddenly acquire a new eloquence, and, if you are a -novice at the craft, will be almost overwhelmed by the catalogue of -misfortune which they will repeat to you. And so, too, upon us in the -winter months comes the temptation to dwell on things done long ago and -ill done, and, as we write<a name="page_323" id="page_323"></a> of the sport for others, we give a false -impression of peril and hardihood in things that were little more than -matter for a moment’s laughter. I too must plead guilty to a well-meant -desire to make your flesh creep.</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:332px;"> -<a href="images/i_401a_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_401a_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_401a_sml.jpg" width="331" height="247" alt="An awkward bit of climbing." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">An awkward bit of climbing.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:332px;"> -<a href="images/i_401c_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_401c_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_401c_sml.jpg" width="321" height="238" alt="Guides at Zermatt." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Guides at Zermatt.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:332px;"> -<a href="images/i_401b_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_401b_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_401b_sml.jpg" width="324" height="228" alt="A large party for a small hut." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">A large party for a small hut.</span> -</p> - -<p class="figcenter" style="max-width:332px;"> -<a href="images/i_401d_lg.jpg"> -<img class="enlargeimage" -src="images/enlarge-image.jpg" -alt="enlarge-image" -title="enlarge-image" -width="18" -height="14" /> -</a><br /><a href="images/i_401d_lg.jpg"><br /> -<img src="images/i_401d_sml.jpg" width="328" height="225" alt="Au revoir. - -To face p. 322." /></a> -<br /> -<span class="caption">Au revoir. -<br /> -To face p. 322.</span> -</p> - -<p>“Mountaineering by skilled mountaineers is about as dangerous as hunting -in a fair country, and requires about as much pluck as to cross from the -Temple to the Law Courts at midday. Difficult mountaineering is for the -unskilled about as dangerous as riding a vicious horse in a steeplechase -for a man who has never learnt to ride. But the tendency in those who -speak or write of it for the outer world who are not mountaineers is to -conceal a deficiency of charm of style by an attempt to slog in the -melodramatic, and I plead guilty at once.</p> - -<p>“So we think and write as though to us our passion for the hills were a -fancy of the summer, a mere flirtation. Yet no one has lost the first -bloom of his delight in Alpine adventure before the element of sternness -has come to mar his memory and bind more closely his affections. You -find the mildly Horatian presence of death somewhere near you, and that -at a moment when, whatever your age and strength, and whatever your -infirmities, you are at the full burst of youth; when Nature has been -kindest she has been most capricious, and has flaunted her relentless -savagery just when she has<a name="page_324" id="page_324"></a> bent to kiss you. The weirdest rocks rise -from Italian gardens, and the forms of hill seem oldest when you are -most exultant—immortal age beside immortal youth. Yet is it not this, -‘the sense of tears,’ in things which are not mortal which must mark -your Alpine paths with memories as heavy and as definite as those -inscriptions which tell of obscure and sudden death on every hillside, -and invite your prayers for the woodcutter and the shepherd? You too -will have seen friends go out into the morning whom you have never -welcomed home. There is a danger, sometimes encountered recklessly, -sometimes ignorantly, but sometimes—hard as it may be to understand the -mood—not in the mere spirit of the idle youth, but met with and -overcome, or overcoming, in a resolution which knows no pleasure in -conquest save when the essay is fierce, and is calmly willing to pay the -penalty of failure. While for ourselves we enjoy the struggle none the -less because we have taken every care that we shall win, they freely -give all; and for such there is surely no law. While by every precept -and example we impress the old rules of the craft on our companions and -our successors, how can we find words of blame for those who have at -least paid the extreme forfeit, and found ‘the sleep that is among the -lonely hills’?</p> - -<p>“The penalty for failure is death; not always<a name="page_325" id="page_325"></a> exacted at the first -slip, for Nature is merciful and ofttimes doth relent; but surely -waiting for those who scorn the experience of others and slight her -majesty in wilfulness, in ignorance, in the obstinate following of a -fancy, in the vain pursuit of notoriety. The rules are known, and those -who break them, and by precept and example tempt to break them those -whom they should teach, wrong the sport which they profess to love.</p> - -<p>“In this game as in any other, it should be a point of honour for us not -to make the sport more difficult for others, and not to bring -unnecessary sorrow upon the peasants, who help us to play it, and upon -their families. It should be a point of honour to play the game, and, if -disaster comes in playing it, we have at least, done our best.”</p> - -<p><a name="page_326" id="page_326"></a></p> - -<p><a name="page_327" id="page_327"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="GLOSSARY" id="GLOSSARY"></a>GLOSSARY</h2> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;max-width:30em;"> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Alp</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">A mountain pasture, usually with chalets -tenanted only in summer.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Arête</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">A ridge.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Bergschrund</span> </p></td><td><p class="hang">A crevasse between the snow adhering to -the rocks and the lower portion of the -glacier.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Col</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">A pass between two peaks.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Couloir</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">A gully, usually filled with snow or stones.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Crevasse</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">A crack in a glacier, caused by the movement -of the ice over an uneven bed or -round a corner.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Firn</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">The snow of the upper regions, which is -slowly changing into glacier ice.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Grat</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">A ridge.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Joch</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">A pass between two peaks.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Kamm</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">A summit ridge.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Moraine</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">An accumulation of stones and sand which -has fallen from bordering slopes on to -a glacier. Medial moraines are formed -by the junction of glaciers, their lateral -moraines joining.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Moulin</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">A glacier mill, or shaft through the ice, -formed by a stream which has met a -crevasse in its course, and plunging -into its depths has bored a hole right -through the glacier and often into the -rock beneath.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Névé</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">The French of <i>Firn</i>. (See Firn.)</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Rücksack</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">The bag type of canvas knapsack now invariably -used by guides and climbers.</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Schrund</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">A crevasse. (See Crevasse.)</p></td></tr> - -<tr valign="top"><td><p><span class="smcap">Sêrac</span></p></td><td><p class="hang">A cube of ice, formed by transverse crevasses, -and found where a glacier passes over -steep rocks. This part of a glacier is -called an ice-fall.</p></td></tr> -</table> - -<p><a name="page_329" id="page_329"></a></p> - -<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> - -<p class="c"><a href="#A">A</a>, -<a href="#B">B</a>, -<a href="#C">C</a>, -<a href="#D">D</a>, -<a href="#E">E</a>, -<a href="#F">F</a>, -<a href="#G">G</a>, -<a href="#H">H</a>, -<a href="#I">I</a>, -<a href="#J">J</a>, -<a href="#K">K</a>, -<a href="#L">L</a>, -<a href="#M">M</a>, -<a href="#N">N</a>, -<a href="#O">O</a>, -<a href="#P">P</a>, -<a href="#R">R</a>, -<a href="#S">S</a>, -<a href="#T">T</a>, -<a href="#U">U</a>, -<a href="#V">V</a>, -<a href="#W">W</a>, -<a href="#Z">Z</a></p> - -<p class="nind"> -<span class="lettre">A</span><br /> -<a name="A" id="A"></a>Abruzzi, Duke of, <a href="#page_008">8</a><br /> -Adine Col, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> -Æggischhorn, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -Ailefroide, <a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_245">245</a><br /> -Aitkins, Mr, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> -Aletsch Glacier, <a href="#page_125">125</a><br /> -Aletschhorn, avalanche on, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> -Almer, Christian, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a><br /> -Almer, Ulrich, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> -Andenmatten, <a href="#page_108">108</a><br /> -Anderegg, Jacob, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> -Anderegg, Melchior, <a href="#page_125">125</a>, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> -Andermatten, Franz, <a href="#page_202">202</a><br /> -Arbuthnot, Mrs, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -Arc, Valley of, <a href="#page_266">266</a><br /> -Aren Glacier, <a href="#page_057">57</a>, <a href="#page_061">61</a><br /> -Arlberg Pass, <a href="#page_061">61</a><br /> -Arolla, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> -Arves, Aiguilles d’, <a href="#page_248">248</a><br /> -Asti, <a href="#page_265">265</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="B" id="B"></a><span class="lettre">B</span><br /> -Baker, Mr, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> -Balloon (crossing Alps), <a href="#page_298">298</a><br /> -Balme, <a href="#page_300">300</a><br /> -Bans, Les, <a href="#page_228">228</a><br /> -Baumann, Hans, <a href="#page_127">127</a><br /> -Bean, Mr, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> -Bennen, <a href="#page_057">57</a><br /> -Bergemoletto, <a href="#page_065">65</a><br /> -Bergli Hut, <a href="#page_210">210</a><br /> -Bessanese, <a href="#page_299">299</a><br /> -Bettega, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br /> -Biner, Alois and P., <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -Biner, Joseph, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -Blaitiére, Aiguille de, <a href="#page_026">26</a>, <a href="#page_037">37</a><br /> -Blanc, Mont, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> -Blanche, Dent, <a href="#page_051">51</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> -Boeufs Rouges, <a href="#page_228">228</a><br /> -Bohren, <a href="#page_058">58</a><br /> -Boniface, <a href="#page_265">265</a><br /> -Bonvoison, Pic de, <a href="#page_226">226</a><br /> -Botto, <a href="#page_298">298</a><br /> -Bregaglia group, <a href="#page_296">296</a><br /> -Brenner, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> -Brewer, Mrs, <a href="#page_061">61</a><br /> -Bricolla châlets, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> -Bristenstock, <a href="#page_164">164</a><br /> -Broadbent, Mr, <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -Bruce, Major,<a name="page_330" id="page_330"></a> <a href="#page_059">59</a><br /> -Brulle, Mons. H., <a href="#page_260">260</a><br /> -Burckhardt, Mr, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> -Burchi peak, <a href="#page_059">59</a><br /> -Burgener, Alexander, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="C" id="C"></a><span class="lettre">C</span><br /> -Cà d’Asti, <a href="#page_265">265</a><br /> -Carr, Mr Ellis, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> -Carrel, J. A., <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> -Caucasus, <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> -Cenis, Mont, <a href="#page_264">264</a><br /> -Cerbillonas, the, <a href="#page_260">260</a><br /> -Chamonix, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> -Charbonnet, Captain, <a href="#page_298">298</a><br /> -Charmoz ridge, <a href="#page_050">50</a><br /> -Claret, <a href="#page_258">258</a><br /> -Clayton, Captain, <a href="#page_261">261</a><br /> -Collie, Dr Norman, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> -Constance, <a href="#page_060">60</a><br /> -Conway, Sir W. M., <a href="#page_155">155</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a><br /> -Copland Valley, <a href="#page_004">4</a><br /> -Croz, Michel, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="D" id="D"></a><span class="lettre">D</span><br /> -Dauphiné, <a href="#page_011">11</a><br /> -Dent, Mr C. T., <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a><br /> -Devas, Mr J. F. C., <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> -Dixon, Mr H. B., <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> -Dolomites, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> -Dom, <a href="#page_052">52</a><br /> -Donkin, Mr W. F., <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_099">99</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> -Dora Riparia, Valley of, <a href="#page_266">266</a><br /> -Düniberg, <a href="#page_282">282</a><br /> -Durand Glacier, <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> -Durando, <a href="#page_298">298</a><br /> -Dych Tau, <a href="#page_105">105</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="E" id="E"></a><span class="lettre">E</span><br /> -Ecrins, <a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a><br /> -Ecrins, Col des, <a href="#page_225">225</a><br /> -Eiger, <a href="#page_264">264</a><br /> -Elbruz, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> -Elm, landslip of, <a href="#page_275">275</a><br /> -Elmer, Huntsman, <a href="#page_280">280</a><br /> -Encula, Glacier de l’, <a href="#page_246">246</a><br /> -Étançons, Val des, <a href="#page_011">11</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="F" id="F"></a><span class="lettre">F</span><br /> -Fellenberg, E. Von, <a href="#page_212">212</a><br /> -Ferard, Mr A. G., <a href="#page_144">144</a><br /> -Fitzgerald, Mr E., <a href="#page_003">3</a><br /> -Flender, Herr, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> -Foster, Mr G. E., <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -Fox, Mr, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> -Freshfield, Mr Douglas, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> -Fürrer, Alphons, <a href="#page_008">8</a><br /> -Furrer, Elias, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="G" id="G"></a><span class="lettre">G</span><br /> -Gabelhorn, Ober, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> -Gastaldi, Rifugio, <a href="#page_299">299</a><br /> -Gavarnie, <a href="#page_261">261</a><br /> -Géant, Dent du, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -Geneva, Lake of,<a name="page_331" id="page_331"></a><a href="#page_037">37</a><br /> -Gentinetta, A., <a href="#page_008">8</a><br /> -Gentinetta, E., <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> -Gestola, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> -Glace, Mer de, <a href="#page_008">8</a><br /> -Glarus, Canton, <a href="#page_277">277</a><br /> -Gohna Lake, <a href="#page_277">277</a><br /> -Grass, Hans, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> -Greenwood, Mr Eric, <a href="#page_154">154</a><br /> -Grogan, Mr, <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -Grove, F. Craufurd, <a href="#page_002">2</a><br /> -Gurkhas, <a href="#page_059">59</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="H" id="H"></a><span class="lettre">H</span><br /> -Habl, Herr Emil, <a href="#page_292">292</a><br /> -Hardy, Mr, <a href="#page_164">164</a><br /> -Hartley, Mr E. T., <a href="#page_166">166</a><br /> -Hill, Mr, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> -Himalayas, <a href="#page_058">58</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a><br /> -Hochjoch Haus, <a href="#page_261">261</a><br /> -Hohberghorn, <a href="#page_052">52</a><br /> -Hörnli, <a href="#page_009">9</a><br /> -Horrocks, D. P., <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="I" id="I"></a><span class="lettre">I</span><br /> -Imboden, Joseph, <a href="#page_052">52</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> -Imboden, Roman, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> -Imseng, Ferdinand, <a href="#page_202">202</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a><br /> -Innsbruck, <a href="#page_060">60</a><br /> -Interlaken, <a href="#page_221">221</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="J" id="J"></a><span class="lettre">J</span><br /> -Jones, Mr Glynne, <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> -Julen, Edouard, <a href="#page_206">206</a><br /> -Julen, Felix, <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -Jungfrau, <a href="#page_055">55</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a><br /> -Jungfrau Hut, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="K" id="K"></a><span class="lettre">K</span><br /> -Kaiserbrunn, <a href="#page_292">292</a><br /> -Kennedy, Dr, <a href="#page_164">164</a>, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> -King, Sir H. S., <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> -Koenig, Herr, <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> -Kubli, Herr Oswald, <a href="#page_281">281</a><br /> -Kurzras, <a href="#page_261">261</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="L" id="L"></a><span class="lettre">L</span><br /> -La Bérarde, <a href="#page_011">11</a>, <a href="#page_245">245</a><br /> -La Grave, <a href="#page_011">11</a><br /> -Langtauferer Glacier, <a href="#page_262">262</a><br /> -Lapland, <a href="#page_306">306</a><br /> -Lausanne, <a href="#page_037">37</a><br /> -Lucerne, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -Lyons, <a href="#page_298">298</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="M" id="M"></a><span class="lettre">M</span><br /> -Maggiore, Lago, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -Maithana Hill, fall of, <a href="#page_275">275</a><br /> -Maquignaz, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> -Maritime Alps, <a href="#page_305">305</a><br /> -Martino, St, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> -Matthews, Mr E. C., <a href="#page_211">211</a><br /> -Matterhorn, <a href="#page_008">8</a>, <a href="#page_021">21</a>, <a href="#page_248">248</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -Maund, Mr, <a href="#page_011">11</a><br /> -Maund, Mrs, <a href="#page_011">11</a><br /> -Maurer, <a href="#page_011">11</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> -Meije, <a href="#page_012">12</a>,<a name="page_332" id="page_332"></a> <a href="#page_248">248</a><br /> -Meije, Brèche de la, <a href="#page_012">12</a>, <a href="#page_228">228</a><br /> -Middlemore, Mr, <a href="#page_011">11</a><br /> -Midi, Aiguille du, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -Mischabel group, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -Monand, Mons. J., <a href="#page_306">306</a><br /> -Mönch, <a href="#page_124">124</a><br /> -Montanvert, <a href="#page_008">8</a><br /> -Moore, Mr A. W., <a href="#page_124">124</a>, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a><br /> -“Moseley’s Platte,” <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -Mouvoison, <a href="#page_142">142</a><br /> -Mueller Valley, <a href="#page_004">4</a><br /> -Mummery, Mr, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_058">58</a><br /> -Mürren, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> -Müsli, <a href="#page_280">280</a><br /> -Mussa, Cantina della, <a href="#page_300">300</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="N" id="N"></a><span class="lettre">N</span><br /> -Nant Francon, <a href="#page_319">319</a><br /> -Nantillons Glacier, <a href="#page_024">24</a><br /> -Neyssel, Mons. Antoine, <a href="#page_306">306</a><br /> -Noir, Glacier, <a href="#page_245">245</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="O" id="O"></a><span class="lettre">O</span><br /> -Oetzthal, <a href="#page_261">261</a><br /> -Offerer, J., <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> -Ossoue, Valley of, <a href="#page_261">261</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="P" id="P"></a><span class="lettre">P</span><br /> -Palü, Piz, <a href="#page_055">55</a><br /> -Passingham, Mr, <a href="#page_202">202</a><br /> -Packe, Mr C., <a href="#page_259">259</a><br /> -Pelvoux, <a href="#page_245">245</a><br /> -Pelvoux, Crête du, <a href="#page_245">245</a><br /> -Perren, H., <a href="#page_138">138</a><br /> -Perren, P., <a href="#page_204">204</a><br /> -Pilatte, Col de la, <a href="#page_222">222</a><br /> -Plan, Aiguille du, <a href="#page_023">23</a><br /> -Plattenbergkopf, <a href="#page_277">277</a><br /> -Pourri, Mont, <a href="#page_267">267</a><br /> -Powell, Captain, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_123">123</a><br /> -Pyrenees, <a href="#page_259">259</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="R" id="R"></a><span class="lettre">R</span><br /> -Rax, the, <a href="#page_291">291</a><br /> -Renaud, Mons., <a href="#page_223">223</a><br /> -Rey, Emil, <a href="#page_008">8</a><br /> -Rhyner, Fridolin, <a href="#page_287">287</a><br /> -Rhyner, Meinrad, <a href="#page_280">280</a><br /> -Richardson, Miss, <a href="#page_165">165</a><br /> -Rocca Venoni, <a href="#page_300">300</a><br /> -Roccia, Family of, <a href="#page_068">68</a><br /> -Roche Melon, <a href="#page_264">264</a><br /> -Rocky Mountains, <a href="#page_133">133</a><br /> -Rodier, <a href="#page_011">11</a><br /> -Rosetta, <a href="#page_182">182</a><br /> -Rothhorn, Zinal, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="S" id="S"></a><span class="lettre">S</span><br /> -Saas, Valley of, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -Sahrbach, <a href="#page_134">134</a><br /> -Schäffer, Dr, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> -Schildthorn, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -Schuster, Mr, <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> -Schwarzsee Hotel, <a href="#page_010">10</a><br /> -Sefton, Mount, <a href="#page_004">4</a><br /> -Seiler, Herr, <a href="#page_145">145</a>,<a name="page_333" id="page_333"></a> <a href="#page_162">162</a><br /> -Seiler, D. H., <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -Sernf Valley, <a href="#page_277">277</a><br /> -Silberhorn, <a href="#page_208">208</a><br /> -Skagastöldstind, <a href="#page_140">140</a><br /> -Ski accident, <a href="#page_137">137</a><br /> -Slingsby, Mr Cecil, <a href="#page_023">23</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a><br /> -Sloggett, Mr, <a href="#page_008">8</a><br /> -Smith, Mr Haskett-, <a href="#page_158">158</a><br /> -Solly, Mr, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> -Somis, Ignazio, <a href="#page_065">65</a><br /> -Sospello, <a href="#page_306">306</a><br /> -Spechtenhauser, <a href="#page_261">261</a><br /> -Spelterini, Captain, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -Spender, Mr H., <a href="#page_167">167</a><br /> -Strahlplatten, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> -Stock, Mr E. E., <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -Stockje, <a href="#page_156">156</a><br /> -Supersax, Ambrose, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> -Susa, <a href="#page_265">265</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="T" id="T"></a><span class="lettre">T</span><br /> -Tavernaro, <a href="#page_183">183</a><br /> -Tetnuld Tau, <a href="#page_099">99</a><br /> -Tönsberg, <a href="#page_141">141</a><br /> -Trift Valley, <a href="#page_195">195</a><br /> -Tuckett, Mr F., <a href="#page_055">55</a>, <a href="#page_264">264</a><br /> -Tuckett Glacier, <a href="#page_005">5</a><br /> -Turin, <a href="#page_298">298</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="U" id="U"></a><span class="lettre">U</span><br /> -Uschba, <a href="#page_115">115</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="V" id="V"></a><span class="lettre">V</span><br /> -Vallon, Glacier du, <a href="#page_245">245</a><br /> -Vallot Hut, <a href="#page_153">153</a><br /> -Valtournanche, <a href="#page_021">21</a><br /> -Ventina Glacier, <a href="#page_316">316</a><br /> -Vignemale, <a href="#page_260">260</a><br /> -Viso, Monte, <a href="#page_269">269</a><br /> -Vuignier, Jean, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="W" id="W"></a><span class="lettre">W</span><br /> -Walker, Mr, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a><br /> -Walker, Mr Horace, <a href="#page_126">126</a><br /> -Wandfluh, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> -Watson, Mr and Mrs, <a href="#page_257">257</a><br /> -Weisshorn, <a href="#page_248">248</a><br /> -Weisskugel, <a href="#page_261">261</a><br /> -Weissmies, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -Wengern Alp, <a href="#page_124">124</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a><br /> -Willink, Mr, <a href="#page_123">123</a><br /> -Wildlahner Glacier, <a href="#page_136">136</a><br /> -Wolfsthal, <a href="#page_292">292</a><br /> -Woolley, Mr H., <a href="#page_116">116</a><br /> -Whymper, Mr E., <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a><br /> -Wyss, Schoolmaster, <a href="#page_280">280</a><br /> -<br /> -<a name="Z" id="Z"></a><span class="lettre">Z</span><br /> -Zentner, Kaspar, <a href="#page_287">287</a><br /> -Zermatt, <a href="#page_010">10</a>, <a href="#page_051">51</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_301">301</a><br /> -Zmutt Glacier, <a href="#page_166">166</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a><br /> -Zurbriggen, <a href="#page_003">3</a>, <a href="#page_059">59</a><br /> -Zurbriggen, Clemens, <a href="#page_168">168</a><br /> -Zurbrücken, Louis, <a href="#page_209">209</a><br /> -Zurmatter, <a href="#page_302">302</a><br /> -</p> - -<p><a name="page_334" id="page_334"></a></p> - -<p><a name="page_335" id="page_335"></a></p> - -<p class="c"> -PRINTED AT THE EDINBURGH PRESS,<br /> -9 AND 11 YOUNG STREET<br /> -</p> - -<div class="footnotes"><p class="cb">FOOTNOTES:</p> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> These are now known as Mummery nails, and are often used by -climbers.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> <i>True Tales of Mountain Adventure</i>, pp. 42 and 43.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Or, in modern phraseology, “avalanches.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Mountain aneroids generally overstate the heights. The -height of Gestola is now computed at 15,932 feet, and that of Tetnuld at -15,918 feet.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> “Good God! The Sleeping-place!”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> “I am still living.”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> <i>Above the Snow Line</i>, by Clinton Dent.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> <i>True Tales of Mountain Adventure</i>, p. 269.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> <i>True Tales of Mountain Adventure</i>, p. 134.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> At the moment of going to press, I must note a fatal -accident on the mountains due to lightning, namely, the death of the -guide, Joseph Simond, on the Dent du Géant. This I had overlooked.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> See <i>True Tales of Mountain Adventure</i>.</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> “Ah! That is really wonderfully beautiful!”</p></div> - -<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> All details connected with this avalanche were collected -on the spot, and shortly afterwards published in a volume, <i>Der -Bergsturz von Elm</i>, by E. Buss and A. Heim. Zürich, 1881.</p></div> -</div> - -<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="" -style="padding:2%;border:3px dotted gray;"> -<tr><th align="center">Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:</th></tr> -<tr><td align="center">The <span class="errata">baloon</span> “Stella”=> The balloon “Stella” {pg xiv}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center">sufficient to carry <span class="errata">of</span> the=> sufficient to carry off the {pg 82}</td></tr> -<tr><td align="center"><span class="errata">Kaisserbrunn</span>, 292=> Kaiserbrunn, 292 {index}</td></tr> -</table> - -<hr class="full" /> - - - - - - - -<pre> - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Adventures on the Roof of the World, by -Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - -***** This file should be named 43314-h.htm or 43314-h.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/3/1/43314/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org/license - - -Title: Adventures on the Roof of the World - -Author: Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -Release Date: July 26, 2013 [EBook #43314] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - - - - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - - - - - - - - - ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF OF - THE WORLD - - - - - SOME - BOOKS ON MOUNTAINEERING - - - =The Annals of Mont Blanc=: A Monograph. By C. E. MATHEWS, sometime - President of the Alpine Club. With Map, 6 Swan-types and other - Illustrations, and Facsimiles. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s. net. - - =The Life of Man on the High Alps=: Studies made on Monte Rosa. By - ANGELO MOSSO. Translated from the Second Edition of the Italian by - E. LOUGH KIESOW, in collaboration with F. KIESOW. With numerous - Illustrations and Diagrams. Royal 8vo, cloth, 21s. - - =The Early Mountaineers=: The Stories of their Lives. By FRANCIS - GRIBBLE. Fully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s. - - =The Climbs of Norman-Neruda.= Edited, with an Account of his last - Climb, by MAY NORMAN-NERUDA. Demy 8vo, cloth, 21s. - - =In the Ice World of Himalaya.= By FANNY BULLOCK WORKMAN and WILLIAM - HUNTER WORKMAN. With four large Maps and nearly 100 Illustrations. - Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 16s. Also a 6s. Edition. - - =From the Alps to the Andes.= By MATHIAS ZURBRIGGEN. Demy 8vo, cloth, - 10s. 6d. net. - - =Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada.= By CLARENCE KING. Crown 8vo, - cloth, 6s. net. - - =True Tales of Mountain Adventure= (for Non-Climbers, Young and Old). - By Mrs AUBREY LE BLOND (Mrs Main). Demy 8vo, cloth, 10s. 6d. net. - -LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN. - -[Illustration: THE FINDING OF THE LAST BIVOUAC OF MESSRS. DONKIN AND FOX -IN THE CAUCASUS. (P. 116.) - -From a drawing by Mr. Willink after a sketch by Captain Powell. Taken, -by kind permission of Mr. Douglas Freshfield, from "The Exploration of -the Caucasus." - -_Frontispiece._] - - - - - ADVENTURES ON THE - ROOF OF THE WORLD - - BY - MRS AUBREY LE BLOND - (MRS MAIN) - - AUTHOR OF - "MY HOME IN THE ALPS," "TRUE TALES OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE," ETC. - - _ILLUSTRATED_ - - [Illustration: colophon] - - LONDON - T. FISHER UNWIN - PATERNOSTER SQUARE - 1904 - - (_All rights reserved._) - - - - - TO - - JOSEPH IMBODEN - - MY GUIDE AND FRIEND FOR TWENTY YEARS, - - I dedicate - - THESE RECORDS OF A PASTIME IN WHICH I OWE - - MY SHARE TO HIS SKILL, COURAGE, AND - - HELPFUL COMPANIONSHIP. - - - - -PREFACE - - -"Dear heart," said Tommy, when Mr Barlow had finished his narrative, -"what a number of accidents people are subject to in this world!" - -"It is very true," answered Mr Barlow, "but as that is the case, it is -necessary to improve ourselves in every possible manner, so that we may -be able to struggle against them." - -Thus quoted, from _Sandford and Merton_, a president of the Alpine Club. -The following True Tales from the Hills, if they serve to emphasise not -only the perils of mountaineering but the means by which they can be -lessened, will have accomplished the aim of their editor. - -This book is not intended for the climber. To him most of the tales will -be familiar in the volumes on the shelves of his library or on the lips -of his companions during restful hours in the Alps. But the non-climber -rarely sees _The Alpine Journal_ and the less popular books on -mountaineering, nor would he probably care to search in their pages for -narratives likely to interest him. - -To seek out tales of adventure easily intelligible to the non-climber, -to edit them in popular form, to point out the lessons which most -adventures can teach to those who may climb themselves one day, has -occupied many pleasant hours, rendered doubly so by the feeling that I -shall again come into touch with the readers who gave so kindly a -greeting to my _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_. In that work I tried -to explain the principles of mountaineering and something of the nature -of glaciers and avalanches. Those chapters will, I think, be found -helpful by non-climbers who read the present volume. - -For much kindly advice and help in compiling this work I am indebted to -Mr Henry Mayhew, of the British Museum, and to Mr Clinton Dent. Mrs -Maund has enabled me to quote from a striking article by her late -husband. Sir W. Martin Conway, Sir H. Seymour King, Messrs Tuckett, G. -E. Foster, Cecil Slingsby, Harold Spender, and Edward Fitzgerald have -been good enough to allow me to make long extracts from their writings. -Messrs Newnes have generously permitted me to quote from articles which -appeared in their publications, and the editor of _The Cornhill_ has -sanctioned my reprinting portions of a paper from his magazine. I am -also indebted to the editor of _M'Clure's Magazine_ for a similar -courtesy. - -Mons. A. Campagne, Inspector of Water and Forests (France), allows me to -make use of two very interesting photographs from his work on the Valley -of Barege. Several friends have lent me photographs for reproduction in -this work, and their names appear under each of the illustrations I owe -to them. Messrs Spooner have kindly allowed me to use several by the -late Mr W. F. Donkin. When not otherwise stated, the photographs are -from my own negatives. - -I take this opportunity of heartily thanking those climbers, some of -them personally unknown to me, whose assistance has rendered this work -possible. - -E. LE BLOND. - -67 THE DRIVE, -BRIGHTON, _December 1903_. - - - - -CONTENTS - - -CHAP. PAGE - - PREFACE ix - - I. SOME TALES OF ALPINE GUIDES 1 - - II. TWO DAYS ON AN ICE-SLOPE 23 - - III. SOME AVALANCHE ADVENTURES 51 - - IV. A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE 65 - - V. A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE (_continued_) 81 - - VI. AN EXCITING CAUCASIAN ASCENT 99 - - VII. A MELANCHOLY QUEST 116 - -VIII. SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND FATAL ACCIDENTS 124 - - IX. A NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE DENT BLANCHE 152 - - X. ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE 167 - - XI. A STIRRING DAY ON THE ROSETTA 182 - - XII. THE ZINAL ROTHHORN TWICE IN ONE DAY 195 - -XIII. BENIGHTED ON A SNOW PEAK 208 - - XIV. THE STORY OF A BIG JUMP 222 - - XV. A PERILOUS FIRST ASCENT 235 - -XVI. THUNDERSTORMS IN THE ALPS 257 - -XVII. LANDSLIPS IN THE MOUNTAINS 275 - -XVIII. SOME TERRIBLE EXPERIENCES 291 - -XIX. FALLING STONES AND FALLING BODIES 310 - -GLOSSARY 327 - -INDEX 329 - - - - -LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS - - -The last bivouac of Messrs Donkin and Fox -in the Caucasus _Frontispiece_ - -Christian Almer, Joseph Imboden, Jean -Antoine Carrel, Alexander Burgener _To face page_ 3 - -The last steep bit near the top--At the end -of a hot day--An instant's halt to choose -the best way up a steep wall of rock--The -ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, -to be brought up by the last man " " 6 - -Auguste Gentinetta--Auguste Gentinetta -on the way to the Matterhorn--The -beginning of the climb up the Matterhorn--The -spot where was the _bergschrund_ -into which Mr Sloggett's party -fell " " 8 - -Auguste Gentinetta on a mountain-top--The -ice-cliffs over which Mr Sloggett's party -would have fallen had they not been -dashed into the _bergschrund_--The -ruined chapel by the Schwarzsee--The -last resting-place at Zermatt of some -English climbers " " 11 - -On a snow ridge--A halt for lunch above -the snow-line--Mrs Aubrey Le Blond " " 51 - -A cutting through an avalanche--The -remains of an avalanche--An avalanche -of stones--A mountain chapel " " 59 - -A mountain path--Peasants of the -mountains--A village buried beneath an -avalanche--Terraces planted to -prevent avalanches " " 65 - -A typical Caucasian landscape " " 105 - -Melchior Anderegg, his son and grandchild " " 124 - -Crevasses and seracs--On the border of a -crevasse--A snow bridge--Soft snow in -the afternoon " " 133 - -The Betemps Hut--Ski-ing--A fall on Skis--A -great crevasse " " 137 - -The balloon "Stella" getting ready to start -(p. 301)--A bivouac in the olden days--Boulder -practice--The last rocks -descending " " 148 - -Provisions for a mountain hotel--An outlook -over rock and snow--Dent Blanche -from Schwarzsee (winter)--Dent Blanche -from Theodule Glacier (summer) " " 152 - -Hut on Col de Bertol--Ascending the -Aiguilles Rouges--Summit of the Dent -Blanche--Cornice on the Dent Blanche " " 156 - -Ambrose Supersax (p. 209)--View from the -Rosetta " " 182 - -Climbing party leaving Zermatt--The -Gandegg Hut--The Trift Hotel--Zinal -Rothhorn from Trift Valley " " 195 - -Zinal Rothhorn--Top of a Chamonix Aiguille--A -steep face of rock--"Leading -strings" " " 202 - -A _bergschrund_--Homewards over the snow-slopes " " 230 - -The Ecrins--Clouds breaking over a ridge--Summit -of the Jungfrau--Wind-blown -snow " " 235 - -The Ecrins from the Glacier Blanc " " 247 - -Slab climbing--A rock ridge--On the Dent -du Geant--The top at last " " 252 - -The second largest glacier in the Alps--On -a ridge in the Oberland " " 259 - -Thirteen thousand feet above the sea--On -the Furggen Grat--A "personally -conducted" party on the Breithorn--Packing -the knapsack " " 269 - -Monte Rosa from the Furggen Grat--The -Matterhorn from the Wellenkuppe " " 272 - -A glacier lake--Amongst the seracs--Taking -off the rope--Water at last! " " 297 - -The balloon "Stella" starting from Zermatt--A -moment after " " 298 - -The Matterhorn from the Hoernli Ridge--The -Matterhorn from the Furgg Glacier--Joseph -Biner--The Matterhorn Hut " " 302 - -A hot day on a mountain-top--A summit -near Saas--Luncheon _en route_ (winter)--Luncheon -on a glacier pass (summer) " " 310 - -A tedious snow-slope--A sitting glissade--A -glacier-capped summit--On the -frontier " " 312 - -Unpleasant going--On the crest of an old -moraine " " 317 - -An awkward bit of climbing--Guides at -Zermatt--The Boval Hut--_Au revoir!_ " " 322 - - - - -ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF OF THE WORLD - - - - -CHAPTER I - -SOME TALES OF ALPINE GUIDES - - -In a former work, I have given some details of the training of an Alpine -guide, so I will not repeat them here. - -The mountain guides of Switzerland form a class unlike any other, yet in -the high standard of honour and devotion they display towards those in -their charge, one is reminded of two bodies of men especially deserving -of respect and confidence, namely, the Civil Guards of Spain and the -Royal Irish Constabulary. Like these, the Alpine guide oftentimes risks -his health, strength--even his life--for persons who are sometimes in -themselves the cause of the peril encountered. Like these, mere bodily -strength and the best will in the world need to be associated with -intelligence and foresight. Like these, also, keen, fully-developed -powers of observation are essential. A certain climber of early days has -wittily related in _The Alpine Journal_ a little anecdote which bears on -this point. "Some years ago," writes the late Mr F. Craufurd Grove, "a -member of this Club was ascending a small and easy peak in company with -a famous Oberland guide. Part of their course lay over a snow-field -sinking gradually on one side, sharply ended by a precipice on the -other. The two were walking along, not far from the edge of this -precipice, when the Englishman, thinking that an easier path might be -made by going still nearer the edge, diverged a little from his -companion's track. To his considerable surprise, the guide immediately -caught hold of him, and pulled him back with a great deal more vigour -than ceremony, well-nigh throwing him down in the operation. Wrathful, -and not disinclined to return the compliment, the Englishman -remonstrated. The guide's only answer was to point to a small crack, -apparently like scores of other cracks in the _neve_, which ran for some -distance parallel to the edge of the precipice, and about 15 feet from -it. - -[Illustration: JEAN ANTOINE CARREL OF VALOURNANCHE. - -By Signor Vittorio Sella.] - -[Illustration: CHRISTIAN ALMER OF GRINDELWALD.] - -[Illustration: ALEXANDER BURGENER OF EISTEN (SAASTHAL).] - -[Illustration: JOSEPH IMBODEN OF ST. NICHOLAS. - -_To face p. 3._] - -"The traveller was not satisfied, but he was too wise a man to spend -time in arguing and disputing, while a desired summit was still some -distance above him. They went on their way, gained the top, and the -traveller's equanimity was restored by a splendid view. When, on the -descent, the scene of the morning's incident was reached, the guide -pointed to the little crack in the _neve_, which had grown perceptibly -wider. 'This marks,' he said, 'the place where the true snow-field ends. -I feel certain that the ice from here to the edge is nothing but an -unsupported cornice hanging over the tremendous precipice beneath. It -might possibly have borne your weight in the early morning, though I -don't think it would. As to what it will bear now that a powerful sun -has been on it for some time--why, let us see.' Therewith he struck the -_neve_ on the further side of the ice sharply with his axe. A huge mass, -some 20 or 30 feet long, immediately broke away, and went roaring down -the cliff in angry avalanche. Whereat the traveller was full of -amazement and admiration, and thought how there, on an easy mountain and -in smiling weather, he had not been very far from making himself into an -avalanche, to his own great discomfort and to the infinite tribulation -of the Alpine Club." - -A fatal accident was only narrowly averted by the skill of the famous -guide Zurbriggen when making an ascent in the New Zealand Alps with Mr -Edward Fitzgerald. I am indebted to this gentleman for permission to -quote the account from his article in _The Alpine Journal_. - -The party were making the ascent of Mount Sefton, and were much troubled -by the looseness of the rock on the almost vertical face which they had -to climb. However, at last they reached a ridge, "along which," writes -Mr Fitzgerald, "we proceeded between two precipices, descending to the -Copland and to the Mueller valleys--some 6000 feet sheer drop on either -hand. - -"We had next to climb about 300 feet of almost perpendicular cliff. The -rocks were peculiarly insecure, and we were obliged to move by turns, -wherever possible throwing down such rocks as seemed most dangerous. At -times even this resource was denied us, so dangerous was the violent -concussion with which these falling masses would shake the ridge to -which we clung. I carried both the ice axes, so as to leave Zurbriggen -both hands free to test each rock as he slowly worked his way upwards, -while I did my utmost to avoid being in a position vertically beneath -him. - -"Suddenly, as I was coming up a steep bit, while Zurbriggen waited for -me a few steps above, a large boulder, which I touched with my right -hand, gave way with a crash and fell, striking my chest. I had been just -on the point of passing up the two ice axes to Zurbriggen, that he might -place them in a cleft of rock a little higher up, and thus leave me -both hands free for my climb. He was in the act of stooping and -stretching out his arms to take them from my uplifted left hand, and the -slack rope between us lay coiled at his feet. The falling boulder hurled -me down head foremost, and I fell about 8 feet, turning a complete -somersault in the air. Suddenly I felt the rope jerk, and I struck -against the side of the mountain with great force. I feared I should be -stunned and drop the two ice axes, and I knew that on these our lives -depended. Without them we should never have succeeded in getting down -the glacier, through all the intricate ice-fall. - -"After the rope had jerked me up I felt it again slip and give way, and -I came down slowly for a couple of yards. I took this to mean that -Zurbriggen was being wrenched from his foot-hold, and I was just -contemplating how I should feel dashing down the 6000 feet below, and -wondering vaguely how many times I should strike the rocks on the way. I -saw the block that I had dislodged going down in huge bounds; it struck -the side three or four times, and then, taking an enormous plunge of -about 2000 feet, embedded itself in the glacier now called the Tuckett -Glacier. - -"I felt the rope stop and pull me up short. I called to Zurbriggen and -asked him if he were solidly placed. I was now swinging in the air like -a pendulum, with my back to the mountain, scarcely touching the rock -face. It would have required a great effort to turn round and grasp the -rock, and I was afraid the strain which would thus necessarily be placed -on the rope might dislodge Zurbriggen. - -"His first fear was that I had been half killed, for he saw the rock -fall almost on top of me; but, as a matter of fact, after striking my -chest it had glanced off to the right and passed under my right arm; it -had started from a point so very near to me that it had not time to gain -sufficient impetus to strike me with great force. Zurbriggen's first -words were, 'Are you very much hurt?' I answered, 'No,' and again I -asked him whether he were firmly placed. 'No,' he replied, 'I am very -badly situated here. Turn round as soon as you can; I cannot hold you -much longer.' I gave a kick at the rocks with one foot, and with a great -effort managed to swing myself round. - -"Luckily there was a ledge near me, and so, getting some hand-hold, I -was soon able to ease the strain on the rope. A few moments later I -struggled a little way up, and at last handed to Zurbriggen the ice -axes, which I had managed to keep hold of throughout my fall. In fact, -my thoughts had been centred on them during the whole of the time. We -were in too bad a place to stop to speak to one another; but -Zurbriggen, climbing up a bit further, got himself into a firm position, -and I scrambled up after him, so that in about ten minutes we had passed -this steep bit. - -[Illustration: The last steep bit near the top.] - -[Illustration: An instant's halt to choose the best way up a steep wall -of rock.] - -[Illustration: At the end of a hot day.] - -[Illustration: The ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, to be brought up -by the last man. - -_To face p. 6._] - -"We now sat for a moment to recover ourselves, for our nerves had been -badly shaken by what had so nearly proved a fatal accident. At the time -everything happened so rapidly that we had not thought much of it, more -especially as we knew that we needed to keep our nerve and take -immediate action; but once it was all over we both felt the effects, and -sat for about half an hour before we could even move again. I learned -that Zurbriggen, the moment I fell, had snatched up the coil of rope -which lay at his feet, and had luckily succeeded in getting hold of the -right end first, so that he was soon able to bring me nearly to rest; -but the pull upon him was so great, and he was so badly placed, that he -had to let the rope slip through his fingers, removing all the skin, in -order to ease the strain while he braced himself in a better position, -from which he was able finally to stop me. He told me that had I not -been able to turn and grasp the rocks he must inevitably have been -dragged from his foot-hold, as the ledge upon which he stood was -literally crumbling away beneath his feet. We discovered that two -strands of the rope had been cut through by the falling rock, so that I -had been suspended in mid-air by a single strand." - -The remainder of the way was far from easy, but without further mishap -the party eventually gained the summit. - -That there are many grades of Alpine guides was amusingly exemplified -once upon a time at the Montanvert, where in front of the hotel stood -the famous Courmazeur guide, Emil Rey (afterwards killed on the Dent du -Geant), talking to the Duke of Abruzzi and other first-rate climbers, -while a little way off lounged some extremely indifferent specimens of -the Chamonix _Societe des Guides_. Presently a tourist, got up with much -elegance, and leaning on a tall stick surmounted by a chamois horn, -appeared upon the scene, and addressed himself to Emil Rey. "Combien -pour traverser la Mer de Glace?" he enquired. - -"Monsieur," replied Rey, removing his hat with one hand and with the -other indicating the group hard by, "voila les guides pour la Mer de -Glace! Moi, je suis pour la grande montagne!" - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta, of Zermatt, 1903.] - -[Illustration: The climb up the Matterhorn by the ordinary Swiss route -begins at the rocky corner to the left of the picture.] - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta on the way to the Matterhorn.] - -[Illustration: The BERGSCHRUND, open when the accident to Mr. Sloggett's -party took place, was above the ice cliff below which the man is -standing. - -_To face p. 8._] - -One of the most wonderful escapes in the whole annals of mountaineering -was that of a young Englishman, Mr Sloggett, and the well-known guide, -Auguste Gentinetta, the second guide, Alphons Fuerrer, being killed on -the spot. They had made a successful ascent of the Matterhorn on 27th -July 1900, and were the first of three parties on the descent. When -nearly down the mountain, not far from the Hoernli ridge, an avalanche of -stones and rocks swept them off their feet. Fuerrer's skull was smashed, -and he was killed immediately, and the three, roped together, were -precipitated down a wall of ice. Their axes were wrenched from their -grasp, and they could do nothing to check themselves. Gentinetta -retained full consciousness during the whole of that awful descent, and -while without the slightest hope that they could escape with their -lives, he in no way lost his presence of mind. About 800 feet below the -spot where their fall commenced was a small _Bergschrund_, or crack -across the ice. This was full of stones and sand, and into it the -helpless climbers were flung; had they shot over it nothing in this -world could have saved them. Gentinetta, though much bruised and knocked -about, had no bones broken, and he at once took means to prevent an even -worse disaster than that which had already happened, for Mr Sloggett had -fallen head downwards, with his face buried in sand, and was on the -point of suffocation. Well was it for him that his guide was a man of -promptness and courage. Without losing an instant Gentinetta pulled up -his traveller and got his face free, clearing the sand out of his mouth, -and doing all that mortal could for him. Mr Sloggett's jaw and two of -his teeth were broken, but his other injuries were far less than might -have been expected. Nevertheless, the position of the two survivors was -still a most perilous one. They were exactly at the spot on to which -almost every stone which detached itself from that side of the mountain -was sure to fall, and their ice axes were lost, rendering it almost -impossible for them to work their way to a place of safety. Still, to -his infinite credit, the guide did not lose heart. By some means, which -he now declares he is unable to understand, he contrived to climb, and -to assist his gentleman, up that glassy, blood-stained wall, which even -for a party uninjured, and properly equipped, it would have been no -light task to surmount. This desperate achievement was rendered doubly -trying by Gentinetta's being perfectly aware that if any more stones -fell the two mountaineers must inevitably be swept away for the second -time. At last they gained their tracks and sought a sheltered spot, -where they could safely rest a little. Here they were joined by the -other parties, who rendered invaluable help during the rest of the -descent. The two sufferers finally arrived at the Schwarzsee Hotel, -whence they were carried down the same evening to Zermatt. - -[Illustration: Auguste Gentinetta on a Mountain Top, 1903.] - -[Illustration: The ruined Chapel by the Schwarzsee.] - -[Illustration: The cliff of ice over which Mr. Sloggett's party must -have precipitated if they had not been dashed into the BERGSCHRUND.] - -[Illustration: The last resting place at Zermatt of some English -climbers. - -_To face p. 11._] - -The next day a strong party started for the scene of the accident to -recover the body of the dead guide, Fuerrer. It was a difficult and a -dangerous task, and those who examined the wall down which the fall -took place expressed their amazement that two wounded men, without axes, -should have performed what seemed the incredible feat of getting up it. - -Both Mr Sloggett and Gentinetta made an excellent recovery, though they -were laid up for many weeks after their memorable descent of the -Matterhorn. - -The qualities found in a first-class guide include not only skill in -climbing, but the ability to form a sound conclusion when overtaken by -storm and mist. The following experience which took place in 1874, and -which I am permitted by Mrs Maund to quote from her late husband's -article in _The Alpine Journal_, proves, by its happy termination, that -Maurer's judgment in a critical position was thoroughly to be relied on. -Mr Maund had just arrived at La Berarde, in Dauphine, and he writes:-- - -"The morning of the 29th broke wet and stormy, and Rodier strongly -advised me not to start; this, however, was out of the question, as I -was due at La Grave on that day to keep my appointment with Mr -Middlemore. After waiting an hour, to give the weather a chance, we -started in drizzling rain at 5 A.M. Desolate as the Val des Etancons -must always look, it appeared doubly gloomy that morning, with its -never-ending monotony of rock and moraine unrelieved by a single patch -of green. As we neared the glacier, the weather fortunately cleared, -and the clouds, which till then had enveloped everything, began to mount -with that marvellous rapidity only noticeable in mountain districts, -leaving half revealed the mighty cliffs of the Meije towering 5000 feet -almost sheer above us. As the wind caught and carried into the air the -frozen sheets of snow on his summit, the old mountain looked like some -giant bill distributer throwing his advertisements about. Entirely -protected from the wind, we whiled away an hour and a half, searching -with our telescope for any feasible line of attack. Having satisfied -ourselves that on this side the mountain presented enormous, if not -insurmountable, difficulties, we shouldered our packs and made tracks -for the Breche, which we reached at 11.45. - -"Meanwhile the weather had become worse again, and during the last part -of the ascent it was snowing heavily; the wind too, from which we had -been protected on the south side of the col, was so strong that we were -absolutely obliged to crawl over to the north side. Our position was by -no means a pleasant one; neither Martin nor I knew anything of the pass, -and Rodier, who had told us overnight that he had crossed it more than -once, seemed to know no more, and although sure of the exact bearing of -La Grave, we could not, owing to the fast falling snow, see further -than 300 or 400 yards in advance; added to this, it was intensely cold. -Having paid Rodier 20 francs (a perfect waste of money, as it is -impossible to mistake the way to the Breche from the Val des Etancons, -and, as I have said, he could not give us the least clue to the descent -on the La Grave side), we dismissed him, hoping devoutly that he might -break his--well, his ice axe, we'll say--on the way down. By keeping -away to the right of the Breche and down a steep slope, we crossed the -crevasses which lay at its base without difficulty. We then bore to the -left across a plateau, on which the snow lay very deep; floundering -through this sometimes waist deep, we reached the upper ice-fall of the -glacier, and after crossing several crevasses became involved in a -perfect net-work of them. After a consultation, we determined to try to -the right, but met with no better success, as again we were checked by -an absolute labyrinth. At last, about five o'clock, we took to some -rocks which divide the glacier into two branches. Meanwhile the snow was -falling thicker and thicker, and, driven by the strong N.W. wind which -caught up and eddied about what had already fallen, it appeared to come -from every quarter at once. It was impossible to see more than a few -yards in advance, and the rocks which under ordinary circumstances -would have been easy, were, with their coating of at least 4 inches of -snow, much the reverse, as it was quite impossible to see where to put -hand or foot. Our only trust was in our compass, which assured us that -while keeping to the backbone of this ridge we were descending in an -almost direct line towards La Grave. - -"We had at most two hours of daylight before us, but there was still a -hope that by following our present line we should get off the glacier -before dark. How I regretted now the time lost in the morning. A little -before seven we were brought to a standstill; our further direct descent -was cut off by a precipice, while the rocks on either side fell almost -sheer to the glaciers beneath. It was too late to think of looking for -another road, so nothing now remained but to find the best shelter we -could and bivouac for the night. We re-ascended to a small platform we -had passed a short time before, and selecting the biggest and most -sheltered bit of rock on it, we piled up the few movable stones there -were about, to form the outside wall to our shelter, and having cleared -away as much of the snow as we could from the inside, laid our ice axes -across the top as rafters, with a sodden mackintosh--ironically called a -waterproof by Mr Carter--over all for a roof. Despite this garment, I -was wet to the skin. Luckily, we had each of us a spare flannel shirt -and stockings in our knapsacks, but as the meagre dimensions of our -shelter would not admit of the struggles attendant on a change, we were -obliged to go through the operation outside. I tried to be cheerful, and -Martin tried to be facetious as we wrung out our wet shirts while the -snow beat on our bare backs, but both attempts were lamentable failures. -If up to the present time my readers have not stripped in a snow-storm, -let me strongly advise them never to attempt it. Having got through the -performance as quickly as possible, we crawled into our shelter, but -here again my ill luck followed me, for in entering I managed to tread -on the tin wine-flask which Martin had thrown aside, and, my weight -forcing out the cork, every drop of wine escaped. After packing myself -away as well as I could in the shape of a pot-hook, Martin followed, and -pot-hooked himself alongside me. We were obliged to assume this -elementary shape, as the size of our shelter would not admit of our -lying straight. All the provisions that remained were then produced. -They consisted of a bit of bread about the size of a breakfast-roll, -one-third of a small pot of preserved meat, about two ounces of raw -bacon with the hide on, and half a small flask of a filthy compound -called Genepie, a sort of liqueur; besides this, we mustered between us -barely a pipe-full of tobacco, and eight matches in a metal-box. The -provisions I divided into three equal parts--one-third for that night's -supper, and the remaining two-thirds for the next day. I need not -enlarge on the miseries of that night. The wind blew through the chinks -between the stones, bringing the snow with it, until the place seemed -all chinks; then the mackintosh with its weight of snow would come in -upon us, and we had with infinite difficulty to prop it up again, only -to go through the same operation an hour later; at last, in sheer -despair, we let it lie where it fell, and found to our relief it kept us -warmer in that position. The snow never ceased one moment although the -wind had fallen, and when morning broke there must have been nearly a -foot of it around and over us. A more desolate picture than that dawn I -have never seen. Snow everywhere. The rocks buried in it, and not a -point peeping out to relieve the unbroken monotony. The sky full of it, -without a break to relieve its leaden sameness, and the heavy flakes -falling with that persistent silence which adds so much to the -desolation of such a scene. - -"I was all for starting; for making some attempt either to get down, or -to recross the col. Martin was dead against it--and I think now he was -right. First of all, we could not have seen more than a few yards ahead; -the rocks would have been considerably worse than they were the evening -before, and if we had once got involved amongst the crevasses it was on -the cards that we shouldn't get clear of them again; added to this, even -if we could hit off the col, what with want of sleep and food, and the -fatigue consequent on several hours' floundering in deep snow, we might -not have strength to reach it. At any rate, we decided not to start -until it cleared sufficiently to let us see where we were going. Our -meagre stock of provisions was redivided into three parts, one of which -we ate for breakfast. I then produced the pipe, but to our horror we -found the matches were still damp. Martin, who is a man of resource, -immediately opened his shirt and put the box containing them under his -arm to dry. Meanwhile the snow never ceased, and the day wore on without -a sign of the weather breaking. If it had not been for the excitement of -those matches, I do not know how we should have got through that day; at -last, however, after about six hours of Martin's fond embrace, one -consented to burn, and I succeeded in lighting the pipe. We took turns -at twelve whiffs each, and no smoke, I can conscientiously say, have I -ever enjoyed like that one. During this never-ending day we got a few -snatches of sleep, but the cold consequent on our wet clothes was so -great, our position so cramped, and the rocks on which we lay so -abominably sharp, that these naps were of the shortest duration. - -"A little before six the snow ceased, and for a moment the sun tried to -wink at us through a chink in his snow-charged blanket, before he went -to bed--long enough, however, for us to see La Grave far below, with -every alp almost down to the village itself covered with its white -mantle. - -"And then, as our second night closes in, the snow recommences, and we -draw closer together even than before; for we feel that during the long -hours to come we must economise to the fullest the little animal heat -left in us. - -"That night I learnt to shiver, not the ordinary shivers, but fits -lasting a quarter of an hour, during which no amount of moral persuasion -could keep your limbs under control; and it was so catching! If either -of us began a solo, the other was sure to join in, and we shivered a -duet until quite exhausted. As we had nothing to drink, I had swallowed -a considerable quantity of snow to quench my thirst, and this, acting on -an almost empty stomach, produced burning heat within, while the cold, -which was now intense, acting externally, induced fever and -light-headedness, and once or twice I caught myself rambling. Martin, -too, was affected in the same way. The long hours wore on, and still -there was no sign of better weather. Towards midnight things looked very -serious. Martin, who had behaved like a brick, thought 'it was very hard -to perish like this in the flower of his age,' and I, too, thought of -writing a line as well as I was able in my pocket-book, bequeathing its -contents to my finder, then of sleeping if I could and waking up with -the Houris; but I had the laugh of him afterwards, because he thought -aloud and I to myself. However, this mood did not last long, and after -shaking hands, I do not quite know why, because we had not quarrelled, -we cuddled up again, and determined, whatever the weather, to start at -daybreak. In half an hour the snow ceased, the wind backed to the S., -and the temperature rose as if by magic; while the snow melting above -trickled down in little streams upon us. We cleared the snow off the -mackintosh, and putting it over us again, slept like logs in comparative -warmth. When I awoke the sun was well up, and on looking round I could -hardly realise the scene. Not a cloud in the sky! Not a breath of wind! -The rocks around us, which yesterday were absolutely buried, were -showing their black heads everywhere, and only a few inches of snow -remained, so rapid had been the thaw; while far away to the N. the -snow-capped summits of the Pennine Alps stood out in bold relief against -the cloudless sky. - -"I woke Martin, and at a quarter to six, after thirty-five hours' -burial, we crawled out of our shelter. At first neither of us could -stand, so chilled were we by long exposure, and so cramped by our -enforced position, but after a good thaw in the hot sun we managed to -hobble about, and pack the knapsacks. After eating the few scraps that -remained, we started at seven o'clock up the ridge that we had descended -two days before. - -"We were very shaky on our legs at first, but at each step the stiffness -seemed to wear off, and after half an hour we quite recovered their use; -but there remained an all-pervading sense of emptiness inside that was -not exhilarating. After ascending a short distance, and with my -telescope carefully examining the rocks, we determined to descend to the -glacier below us (the western branch), and crossing this get on to some -more rocks beneath the lower ice-fall. If we could get down these our -way seemed clear. - -"I won't trouble you with the details of the descent: suffice it to say -that, without encountering any difficulty, we stepped on to grass about -twelve o'clock, and descending green slopes, still patched here and -there with snow (which would have provided sufficient Edelweiss for all -the hats of the S.A.C.), we arrived safely at La Grave, after a pleasant -little outing of fifty-six hours. Mr Middlemore, despairing of my -coming, had started for England the night before, and had left Jaun to -await my arrival. - -"After a hot bath, and some bread-crumbs soaked in warm wine, I went to -bed, and the next morning I awoke as well as I am now, with the -exception of stiffness in the knees, and a slight frost-bite on one -hand. Martin, however, who, I suspect, had eaten a good deal on his -arrival, was seized with severe cramp, and for some hours was very ill. - -"Two days' rest put us all to rights again." - -Though rivalry may be keen between first-class guides, and bitter things -be said now and then in the heat of the struggle for first place, yet -when a great guide has passed away, it is seldom that one hears anything -but good of him. A pretty story is told--and I believe it is true--of -the son of old Maquignaz of Valtournanche, which exemplifies this -chivalrous trait. Maquignaz and Jean Antoine Carrel were often in -competition in the early days of systematic climbing, and if not -enemies, they were at any rate hardly bosom friends. Carrel's tragic and -noble death on the Matterhorn will be recalled by readers of my _True -Tales of Mountain Adventure_. Not very long ago a French climber was -making an ascent of the Italian side of the Matterhorn, with "young" -Maquignaz as guide. "Where did Carrel fall?" he innocently enquired, as -they ascended the precipitous cliffs on the Breuil side of the mountain. -Young Maquignaz turned sharply to him and exclaimed: "Carrel n'est pas -tombe! _Il est mort!_" - - - - -CHAPTER II - -TWO DAYS ON AN ICE-SLOPE - - -There are few instances so striking of the capacity of a party of -thoroughly experienced mountaineers to get out of a really tight place, -as was the outcome of the two days spent by Messrs Mummery, Slingsby, -and Ellis Carr, on an ice slope in the Mont Blanc district. The party -intended trying to ascend the Aiguille du Plan direct from the Chamonix -valley. Mr Ellis Carr has generously given me permission to make use of -his account, which I quote from _The Alpine Journal_. He relates the -adventures of himself and his two friends, whose names are household -words to climbers, as follows:-- - -"Mummery, Slingsby, and I started at 4 P.M., with a porter carrying the -material for our camp. This comprised a silk tent of Mummery's pattern, -only weighing 11/2 to 2 lbs.; three eider-down sleeping-bags, 9 lbs.; -cooking apparatus of thin tin, 11/2 lbs.; or, with ropes, rucksacks, and -sundries, about 25 lbs., in addition to the weight of the provisions. -Though not unduly burdened, the porter found the valley of boulders -exceedingly troublesome, and in spite of three distinct varieties of -advice as to the easiest route across them, made such miserably slow -progress, often totally disappearing amongst the rocks like a -water-logged ship in a trough of the sea, that we were forced to pitch -our tents on the right moraine of the Nantillons Glacier, instead of -near the base of our peak, as intended. The _gite_, built up with stones -on the slope of the moraine, with earth raked into the interstices, was -sufficiently comfortable to afford Mummery and myself some sleep. A -stone, however, far surpassing the traditional _gite_ lump in aggressive -activity, seemed, most undeservedly, to have singled out Slingsby as its -innocent victim, and, judging by the convulsions of his sleeping-bag, -and the sighs and thumps which were in full swing every time I woke up, -it must have kept him pretty busy all night dodging its attacks from -side to side. His account of his sufferings next morning, when Mummery -and I were admittedly awake, fully confirmed and explained these -phenomena, but on going for the enemy by daylight, he had the -satisfaction of finding that he had suffered quite needlessly, the stone -being loose and easily removed. We used Mummery's silk tent for the -first time, and found that it afforded ample room for three men to lie -at full length without crowding. The night, however, was too fine and -still to test the weather-resisting power of the material, and as this -was thin enough to admit sufficient moonlight to illuminate the interior -of the tent, and make candle or lamp superfluous, we inferred that it -might possibly prove to be equally accommodating in the case of rain and -wind. It was necessary, moreover, on entering or leaving the tent, to -adopt that form of locomotion to which the serpent was condemned to -avoid the risk of unconsciously carrying away the whole structure on -one's back. We started next morning about three o'clock, leaving the -camp kit ready packed for the porter, whom we had instructed to fetch it -during the day, and pushed on to the glacier at the foot of our mountain -at a steady pace, maintained in my case with much greater ease than -would have otherwise been possible by virtue of some long, -single-pointed screw spikes inserted overnight in my boot soles; and I -may here venture to remark that a few of these spikes, screwed into the -boots before starting on an expedition where much ice-work is expected, -appear to offer a welcome compromise between ponderous crampons and -ordinary nails. They do not, I think, if not too numerous, interfere -with rock-climbing, and can be repeatedly renewed when worn down. A -slight modification in the shape would further facilitate their being -screwed in with a box key made to fit.[1] - -"Leaving the rock buttress, the scene of our reconnaissance on the 11th, -on the right, we struck straight up the glacier basin between it and the -Aiguille de Blaitiere, which glacier appeared to me to be largely -composed of broken fragments of ice mixed with avalanche snow from the -hanging glaciers and slopes above. Keeping somewhat to the left, we -reached the _bergschrund_, which proved to be of considerable size, -extending along the whole base of the couloir, and crossed it at a point -immediately adjoining the rocks on the left. The axe at once came into -requisition, and we cut steadily in hard ice up and across the couloir -towards the small rib or island of rock before-mentioned as dividing it -higher up into two portions. The rocks at the base of this rib, though -steep, gritty, and loose, offered more rapid going than the ice, and we -climbed then to a gap on the ridge above, commanding a near view of the -perpendicular country in front of us. Far above us, and immediately over -the top of the right-hand section of the couloir, towered the ice cliffs -of the hanging glacier we had tried to reach on the 11th, and beyond -these again, in the grey morning light, we caught the glimpse of a -second and even a third rank of _seracs_ in lofty vista higher up the -mountain. As before observed, this section of the couloir seemed -admirably placed for receiving ice-falls, and we now saw that it formed -part of the natural channel for snow and _debris_ from each and all of -these glaciers. We therefore directed our attention to our friend on the -left, and after a halt for breakfast, traversed the still remaining -portion of the dividing ridge, turning a small rock pinnacle on its -right, and recommenced cutting steps in the hard ice which faced us. As -has been before remarked, it is difficult to avoid over-estimating the -steepness of ice-slopes, but, allowing for any tendency towards -exaggeration, I do not think I am wrong in fixing the angle of the -couloir from this point as not less than 50 deg.. We kept the axe steadily -going, and with an occasional change of leader, after some hours' -unceasing work, found ourselves approaching the base of the upper -portion of the couloir, which from below had appeared perpendicular. We -paused to consider the situation. For at least 80 to 100 feet the ice -rose at an angle of 60 deg. to 70 deg., cutting off all view of the face above, -with no flanking wall of rock on the right, but bounded on the left by -an overhanging cliff, which dripped slightly with water from melting -snow above. The morning was well advanced, and we kept a sharp look-out -aloft for any stray stones which might fancy a descent in our direction. -None came, and we felt gratified at this confirmation of our judgment -as to the safety of this part of the couloir. However, the time for -chuckling had not yet come. As I stated, we had halted to inspect the -problem before us. Look as we might we could discover no possibility of -turning the ice wall either to the right or left, and though, as we -fondly believed and hoped, it formed the only barrier to easier going -above, the terrible straightness and narrowness of the way was -sufficient to make the very boldest pause to consider the strength of -his resources. - -"How long _I_ should have paused before beating a retreat, if asked to -lead the way up such a place, I will not stop to enquire, but I clearly -remember that my efforts to form some estimate of the probable demand on -my powers such a feat would involve were cut short by Mummery's quiet -announcement that he was ready to make the attempt. Let me here state -that amongst Mummery's other mountaineering qualifications not the least -remarkable is his power of inspiring confidence in those who are -climbing with him, and that both Slingsby and I experienced this is -proved by the fact that we at once proceeded, without misgiving or -hesitation, to follow his lead. We had hitherto used an 80-feet rope, -but now, by attaching a spare 100-feet length of thin rope, used double, -we afforded the leader an additional 50 feet. Mummery commenced -cutting, and we soon approached the lower portion of the actual ice -wall, where the angle of the slope cannot have been less than 60 deg.. - -"I am not aware that any authority has fixed the exact degree of -steepness at which it becomes impossible to use the ice axe with both -hands, but, whatever portion of a right angle the limit may be, Mummery -very soon reached it, and commenced excavating with his right hand caves -in the ice, each with an internal lateral recess by which to support his -weight with his left. Slingsby and I, meanwhile possessing our souls in -patience, stood in our respective steps, as on a ladder, and watched his -steady progress with admiration, so far as permitted us by the falling -ice dislodged by the axe. - -"Above our heads the top of the wall was crowned by a single projecting -stone towards which the leader cut, and which, when reached, just -afforded sufficient standing-room for both feet. The ice immediately -below this stone, for a height of 12 or 14 feet, was practically -perpendicular, and Slingsby's definition of it as a 'frozen waterfall' -is the most appropriate I can find. Here and there Mummery found it -necessary to cut through its entire thickness, exposing the face of the -rock behind. - -"On reaching the projecting stone the leader was again able to use the -axe with both hands, and slowly disappeared from view; thus completing, -without pause or hitch of any kind, the most extraordinary feat of -mountaineering skill and nerve it has ever been my privilege to witness. - -"The top of the wall surmounted, Slingsby and I expected every moment to -hear the welcome summons to follow to easier realms above. None came. -Time passed, the only sounds besides the occasional drip of water from -the rocks on our left, or the growl of a distant avalanche, being that -of the axe and the falling chips of ice, as they whizzed by or struck -our heads or arms with increasing force. The sounds of the axe strokes -gradually became inaudible, but the shower continued to pound us without -mercy for more than an hour of inaction, perhaps more trying to the -nerves, in such a position, than the task of leading. The monotony was -to some extent varied by efforts to ward off from our heads the blows of -the falling ice, and by the excitement, at intervals, of seeing the -slack rope hauled up a foot or so at a time. It had almost become taut, -and we were preparing to follow, when a shout from above, which sounded -from where we stood muffled and far away, for more rope, kept us in our -places. It was all very well to demand more rope, but not so easy to -comply. The only possible way to give extra length was to employ the 100 -feet of thin rope single, instead of double, at which we hesitated at -first, but, as Mummery shouted that it was absolutely necessary, we -managed to make the change, though it involved Slingsby's getting out of -the rope entirely during the operation. To any one who has not tried it -I should hardly venture to recommend, as an enjoyable diversion, the -process, which must necessarily occupy both hands, of removing and -re-adjusting 180 feet of rope on an ice slope exceeding 60 deg. at the top -of a steep couloir some 1000 feet high. The task accomplished, we had -not much longer to wait before the shout to come on announced the -termination of our martyrdom. We went on, but, on passing in turn the -projecting stone, and catching sight of the slope above, we saw at a -glance that our hopes of easy going must, for the present, be postponed. -Mummery, who had halted at the full extent of his tether of about 120 -feet of rope, was standing in his steps on an ice slope quite as steep -as that below the foot of the wall we had just surmounted. He had been -cutting without intermission for two hours, and suggested a change. -Being last on the rope, I therefore went ahead, cutting steps to pass, -and took up the work with the axe. The ice here was occasionally in -double layer, the outer one some 3 or 4 inches in thickness, which, when -cut through, revealed a space of about equal depth behind, an -arrangement at times very convenient, as affording good hand-holes -without extra labour. I went on for some time cutting pigeon-holes on -the right side of the couloir, and, at the risk of being unorthodox, I -would venture to point out what appears to me the advantages of this -kind of step on very steep ice. Cut in two perpendicular rows, -alternately for each foot, the time lost in zigzags is saved, and no -turning steps are necessary; they do not require the ice to be cut away -so much for the leg as in the case of lateral steps, and are therefore -less easily filled up by falling chips and snow. Being on account of -their shape more protected from the sun's heat, they are less liable to -be spoiled by melting, and have the further advantage of keeping the -members of the party in the same perpendicular line, and consequently in -a safer position. They also may serve as hand-holds. To cut such steps -satisfactorily it is necessary that the axe be provided with a point -long enough to penetrate to the full depth required for the -accommodation of the foot up to the instep, without risk of injury to -the shaft by repeated contact with the ice. - -"As we had now been going for several hours without food, and since -leaving the rock rib, where we had breakfasted, had come across no ledge -or irregularity of any kind affording a resting-place, it was with no -little satisfaction that I descried, on the opposite side of the -couloir, at a spot about 30 or 40 feet above, where the cliff on our -left somewhat receded, several broken fragments of rock cropping out of -the ice, of size and shape to provide seats for the whole party. We cut -up and across to them, and sat down, or rather hooked ourselves on, for -a second breakfast. We were here approximately on a level with the -summit of our rock buttress of the 11th, and saw that it was only -connected with the mountain by a broken and dangerous-looking ridge of -ice and _neve_ running up to an ice-slope at the foot of the glacier -cliffs. The gap in the latter was not visible from our position. The -tower we had tried to turn appeared far below, and the intervening rocks -of the buttress, though not jagged, were steep and smooth like a roof. -The first gleams of sunshine now arrived to cheer us, and, getting under -way once more, we pushed on hopefully, as the couloir was rapidly -widening and the face of the mountain almost in full view. We had also -surmounted the rock wall which had so long shut out the prospect on our -left, and it was at this point that, happening to glance across the -slabs, we caught sight of a large flat rock rapidly descending. It did -not bound nor roll, but slid quietly down with a kind of stealthy haste, -as if it thought, though rather late, it might still catch us, and was -anxious not to alarm us prematurely. It fell harmlessly into the -couloir, striking the ice near the rock rib within a few feet of our -tracks, and we saw no other falling stones while we were on the -mountain. - -"Leaving the welcome resting-place, Mummery again took the lead, and cut -up and across the couloir, now becoming less steep, to a rib or patch of -rocks higher up on the right, which we climbed to its upper extremity, a -distance of some 70 or 80 feet. - -"Here, taking to the ice once more, we soon approached the foot of the -first great snow-slope on the face, and rejoiced in the near prospect of -easier going. At the top of this slope, several hundred feet straight -before us, was a low cliff or band of rocks, for which we decided to -aim, there being throughout the entire length of the intervening slope -no suspicious grey patches to indicate ice. The angle was, moreover, -much less severe, and it being once more my turn to lead, I went at it -with the zealous intention of making up time. My ardour was, however, -considerably checked at finding, when but a short distance up the slope, -that the coating of _neve_ was so exceedingly thin as to be insufficient -for good footing without cutting through the hard ice below. Instead, -therefore, of continuing in a straight line for the rocks, we took an -oblique course to the right, towards one of the hanging glaciers before -referred to, and crossing a longitudinal crevasse, climbed without much -difficulty up its sloping bank of _neve_. Hurrah! here was good snow at -last, only requiring at most a couple of slashes with the adze end of -the axe for each step. If this continued we had a comparatively easy -task before us, as the rocks above, though smooth and steep, were broken -up here and there by bands and streaks of snow. Taking full advantage of -this our first opportunity for making speed, we cut as fast as possible -and made height rapidly. We still aimed to strike the band of rocks -before described, though at a point much more to the right, and nearer -to where its extremity was bounded by the ice-cliffs of another hanging -glacier; but, alas! as we approached nearer and nearer to the base of -the cliffs, looming apparently higher and higher over our heads, the -favouring _neve_, over which we had been making such rapid progress, -again began to fail, and before we could reach the top of the once more -steepening slope the necessity of again resorting to the pick end of the -axe brought home the unwelcome conviction that our temporary respite had -come to an end, and that, instead of snow above, and apart from what -help the smooth rocks might afford, nothing was to be expected but hard, -unmitigated ice. - -"We immediately felt that, as it was already past noon, the -establishment of this fact would put a totally different complexion on -our prospects of success, and, instead of reaching the summit, we might -have to content ourselves with merely crossing the ridge. We continued -cutting, however, and reached the rocks, the last part of the slope -having once more become exceedingly steep. To turn the cliff, here -unclimbable, we first spent over half an hour in prospecting to the -right, where a steep ice-gully appeared between the rocks and the -hanging glacier; but, abandoning this, we struck off to the left, -cutting a long traverse, during which we were able to hitch the rope to -rocks cropping out through the ice. The traverse landed us in a kind of -gully, where, taking to the rocks whenever practicable, though climbing -chiefly by the ice, we reached a broken stony ledge, large and flat -enough to serve as a luncheon place, the only spot we had come across -since leaving the rock rib, where it was possible really to rest -sitting. Luncheon over, we proceeded as before, choosing the rocks as -far as possible by way of change, though continually obliged to take to -the ice-streaks by which they were everywhere intersected. This went on -all the rest of the afternoon, till, when daylight began to wane, we had -attained an elevation considerably above the gap between our mountain -and the Aiguille de Blaitiere, or more than 10,900 feet above the sea. - -"The persistent steepness and difficulty of the mountain had already put -our reaching the ridge before dark entirely out of the question, though -we decided to keep going as long as daylight lasted, so as to leave as -little work as possible for the morrow. - -"The day had been gloriously fine, practically cloudless throughout, and -I shall never forget the weird look of the ice-slopes beneath, turning -yellow in the evening light, and plunging down and disappearing far -below in the mists which were gathering at the base of the mountain; -also, far, far away, we caught a glimpse of the Lake of Geneva, -somewhere near Lausanne. I had turned away from the retrospect, when an -exclamation from Slingsby called me to look once more. A gap had -appeared in the mists, and there, some 2700 feet below us, as it were on -an inferior stage of the world, we caught a glimpse of the snow-field at -the very foot of the mountain, dusky yellow in the last rays of the sun. -Mummery was in the meantime continuing the everlasting chopping, in the -intervals of crawling up disobliging slabs of rock, till twilight began -to deepen into darkness, and we had to look about for a perch on which -to roost for the night. The only spot we could find, sufficiently large -for all three of us to sit, was a small patch of lumps of rocks, more or -less loose, some 20 or 30 feet below where we stood, and we succeeded, -just as the light failed, or about 8.30 P.M., and after some -engineering, in seating ourselves side by side upon it. Our boots were -wet through by long standing in ice-steps, and we took them off and -wrung the water out of our stockings. The others put theirs on again, -but, as a precaution against frost-bite, having pocketed my stockings, I -put my feet, wrapped in a woollen cap, inside the rucksack, with the -result that they remained warm through the night. The half hour which it -took me next morning to pull on the frozen boots proved, however, an -adequate price for the privilege of having warm feet. As a precaution -against falling off our shelf we hitched the rope over a rock above and -passed it round us, and to make sure of not losing my boots (awful -thought!), I tied them to it by the laces. - -"After dinner we settled down to spend the evening. The weather -fortunately remained perfect, and the moon had risen, though hidden from -us by our mountain. Immediately below lay Chamonix, like a cheap -illumination, gradually growing more patchy as the night advanced and -the candles went out one by one, while above the stars looked down as -if silently wondering why in the world we were sitting there. The first -two hours were passed without very much discomfort, but having left -behind our extra wraps to save weight, as time wore on the cold began to -make itself felt, and though fortunately never severe enough to be -dangerous, made us sufficiently miserable. Packed as we were, we were -unable to indulge in those exercises generally adopted to induce warmth, -and we shivered so vigorously at intervals that, when all vibrating in -unison, we wondered how it might affect the stability of our perch. -Sudden cramp in a leg, too, could only be relieved by concerted action, -it being necessary for the whole party to rise solemnly together like a -bench of judges, while the limb was stretched out over the valley of -Chamonix till the pain abated, and it could be folded up and packed away -once more. We sang songs, told anecdotes, and watched the ghostly effect -of the moonlight on a subsidiary pinnacle of the mountain, the -illuminated point of which, in reality but a short distance away, looked -like a phantom Matterhorn seen afar off over an inky black _arete_ -formed by the shadow thrown across its base by the adjoining ridge. We -had all solemnly vowed not to drop asleep, and for me this was -essential, as my centre of gravity was only just within the base of -support; but while endeavouring to give effect to another chorus, in -spite of the very troublesome _vibrato_ before referred to, I was -grieved and startled at the sudden superfluous interpolation of two -sustained melancholy bass notes, each in a different key and ominously -suggestive of snoring. The pensive attitude of my companions' heads -being in keeping with their song, in accordance with a previous -understanding, I imparted to Mummery, who sat next to me, a judicious -shock, but, as in the case of a row of billiard balls in contact, the -effect was most noticeable at the far end, and _Slingsby_ awoke, -heartily agreeing with me how weak it was of Mummery to give way thus. -The frequent necessity for repeating this operation, with strengthening -variations as the effect wore off, soon stopped the chorus which, like -Sullivan's 'Lost Chord,' trembled away into silence. - -"The lights of Chamonix had by this time shrunk to a mere moth-eaten -skeleton of their earlier glory, and I became weakly conscious of a sort -of resentment at the callous selfishness of those who could thus sneak -into their undeserved beds, without a thought of the three devoted -explorers gazing down at them from their eyrie on the icy rocks. - -"From 2 to 4 o'clock the cold became more intense, aggravated by a -slight 'breeze of morning,' and while waiting for dawn we noticed that -it was light enough to see. - -"Daylight, however, did not help Mummery to find his hat, and we -concluded it had retired into the _bergschrund_ under cover of darkness. - -"We helped each other into a standing position, and decided to start for -the next patch of rocks above, from there to determine what chance of -success there might be in making a dash for the summit, or, failing -this, of simply crossing the ridge and descending to the Col du Geant. -There was very little food left, and, as we had brought no wine, -breakfast was reduced to a slight sketch, executed with little taste and -in a few very dry touches. Owing to the time required to disentangle -virulently kinked and frozen ropes, etc., the sun was well above the -horizon when we once more started upwards, though unfortunately, just at -this time, when his life-giving rays would have been most acceptable, -they were entirely intercepted by the ridge of the Blaitiere. We started -on the line of steps cut the night before, but soon after Mummery had -recommenced cutting, the cold, or rather the impossibility, owing to the -enforced inaction, to get warm, produced such an overpowering feeling of -drowsiness that Slingsby and I, at Mummery's suggestion, returned to the -perch, and jamming ourselves into the space which had before -accommodated our six legs, endeavoured to have it out in forty winks. -Mummery meanwhile continued step-cutting, and at the end of about half -an hour, during which Slingsby and I were somewhat restored by a fitful -dose, returned, and we tied on again for another attempt. - -"Surmounting the patches of rock immediately above our dormitory, we -arrived at the foot of another slope of terribly steep, hard ice, some -200 feet in height. At the top of this again was a vertical crag 14 or -15 feet high, forming the outworks of the next superior band of rocks, -which was interspersed with ice-streaks as before. A few feet from the -base of this crag was a narrow ledge about 1 foot in width, where we -were able to sit after scraping it clear of snow. Slingsby gave Mummery -a leg up round a very nasty corner, and he climbed to a point above the -crag, whence he was able to assist us with the rope up a still higher -and narrower ledge. Beyond was another steep slope of hard ice, topped -by a belt of rocks, as before. - -"Before reaching this point the cold had again begun to tell upon me, -and I bitterly regretted the mistaken policy of leaving behind our extra -wraps, especially as the coat I was wearing was not lined. As there was -no probability of a change for the better in the nature of the going -before the ridge was reached, I began to doubt the wisdom of proceeding, -affected as I was, where a false step might send the whole party into -the _bergschrund_ 3000 feet below; but it was very hard, with the summit -in view and the most laborious part of the ascent already accomplished, -to be the first to cry 'Hold!' I hesitated for some time before doing -so, and the others meanwhile had proceeded up the slope. The rope was -almost taut when I shouted to them the state of the case, and called a -council of war. They returned to me, and we discussed what was -practically something of the nature of a dilemma. To go on at the same -slow rate of progress and without the sun's warmth meant, on the one -hand, the possible collapse of at least one of the party from cold, -while, on the other hand, to turn back involved the descent of nearly -3000 feet of ice, and the passage, if we could not turn it, of the -couloir and its ghastly ice-wall. Partly, I think, to delay for a time -the adoption of the latter formidable alternative, partly to set at rest -any doubt which might still remain as to the nature of the going above, -Mummery volunteered to ascend alone to the rocks at the summit of the -ice-slope, though the chance of their offering any improved conditions -was generally felt to be a forlorn hope. He untied the rope, threw the -end down to us, and retraced his steps up the slope, in due time -reaching the rocks some 100 or 130 feet above, but, after prospecting in -more than one direction, returned to us with the report that they -offered no improvement, and that the intersecting streaks were nothing -but hard ice. He, however, was prepared to continue the attempt if we -felt equal to the task. If we could at that moment have commanded a cup -of hot soup or tea, or the woollen jackets which in our confidence in -being able to reach the ridge we had left behind, I am convinced I -should have been quite able to proceed, and that the day and the -mountain would have been ours; but in the absence of these reviving -influences and that of the sun, I was conscious that in my own case, at -any rate, it would be folly to persist, so gave my vote for descending. -As the food was practically exhausted, the others agreed that it would -be wiser to face the terrible ordeal which retracing our steps involved -(we did not then know that it meant recutting them), rather than -continue the ascent with weakened resources and without absolute -certainty of the accessibility of the summit ridge. - -"As Slingsby on the previous day had insisted on being regarded merely -as a passenger, and had therefore not shared in the step-cutting, it was -now arranged that he should lead, while Mummery, as a tower of strength, -brought up the rear. Though it was past five o'clock, and of course -broad daylight, a bright star could be seen just over the ridge of our -mountain, not far from the summit--alas! the only one anywhere near it -on that day. We started downwards at a steady pace, and soon were -rejoicing in the returning warmth induced by the more continuous -movement. Before we had gone far, however, we found that most of the -steps were partially filled up with ice, water having flowed into them -during the previous afternoon, and the work of trimming or practically -recutting these was at times exceedingly trying, owing to their distance -apart, and the consequent necessity of working in a stooping and cramped -position. - -"But if the work was tough the worker, fortunately, was tougher still, -and Mummery and I congratulated ourselves on being able to send such -powerful reserves to the front. - -"The morning was well advanced before the sun surmounted the cold screen -of the Blaitiere, but having once got to work he certainly made up by -intensity for his tardy appearance. - -"The provisions, with the exception of a scrap or two of cheese and a -morsel of chocolate, being exhausted, and having, as before stated, -nothing with us in the form of drink, nothing was to be gained by a -halt, though, as we descended with as much speed as possible, we kept a -sharp look-out for any signs of trickling water with which to quench the -thirst, which was becoming distressing. - -"Since finally deciding to return, we had cherished the hope that it -might still be possible to turn the ice-wall by way of the great rock -buttress, and made up our minds at any rate to inspect it from above. -With this in view, when the point was reached where we had on the -previous day struck the flank of the hanging glacier instead of -continuing in the tracks which trended to the right across the long -ice-slope, we cut straight down by the side of the glacier to its foot, -and over the slope below, in the direction of the _seracs_ immediately -crowning the summit of the buttress. - -"On nearer approach, however, it was manifest that even if by hours of -step-cutting a passage from the ice to the rocky crest below could be -successfully forced, descent by the latter was more than doubtful, while -the consequences of failure were not to be thought of. - -"Driven, therefore, finally to descend by the couloir, we cut a -horizontal traverse which brought us back into the old tracks, a short -way above the point where the ice began to steepen for the final plunge, -where we braced ourselves for the last and steepest 1000 feet of ice. -Slingsby still led, and, on arriving at the spot below our second -breakfast-place, where I had last cut pigeon-holes, joyfully announced -that one of them contained water. He left his drinking cup in an -adjoining step for our use as we passed the spot in turn, and the fact -that it was only visible when on a level with our faces may give some -idea of the steepness of the descent. The delight of that drink was -something to remember, though only obtainable in thimblefuls, and I -continued dipping so long that Mummery became alarmed, being under the -impression that the cup was filled each time. - -"Mummery had previously volunteered, in case we were driven to return by -the couloir, to descend first, and recut the steps and hand-holes in the -ice-wall, and as we approached the brink we looked about for some -projecting stone or knob of rock which might serve as a hitch for the -rope during the operation. The only available projection was a pointed -stone of doubtful security, somewhat removed from the line of descent, -standing out of the ice at the foot of a smooth vertical slab of rock on -the left. Round this we hitched the rope, Slingsby untying to give the -necessary length. With our feet firmly planted, each in its own -ice-step, we paid out the rope as Mummery descended and disappeared over -the edge. It was an hour before he re-appeared, and this period of -enforced inaction was to me, and I think to Slingsby, the most trying of -the whole expedition. The want of food was beginning to tell on our -strength, the overpowering drowsiness returned, and though it was -absolutely essential for the safety of the party to stand firmly in the -ice-steps, it required a strong effort to avoid dropping off to sleep in -that position. We were fortunately able to steady ourselves by grasping -the upper edge of the ice where it adjoined the rocky slab under which -we stood. This weariness, however, must have been quite as much mental -as physical from the long-continued monotony of the work, for when -Mummery at last reappeared we felt perfectly equal to the task of -descending. The rope was passed behind a boss of _neve_ ingeniously -worked by Mummery as a hitch to keep it perpendicular, and I descended -first, but had no occasion to rely upon it for more than its moral -support, as the steps and hand-holds had been so carefully cut. I -climbed cautiously down the icy cataract till I reached a point where -hand-holds were not essential to maintain the balance, and waited with -my face almost against the ice till Slingsby joined me. Mummery soon -followed, and rather than leave the spare rope behind detached it from -the stone and descended without its aid, his nerve being to all -appearance unimpaired by the fatigues he had gone through. I had before -had evidence of his indifference while on the mountains to all forms of -food or drink, with the single exception, by the way, of strawberry jam, -on the production of which he generally capitulates. - -"Rejoicing at having successfully passed the steepest portion of the -ice-wall without the smallest hitch of the wrong sort, we steadily -descended the face of the couloir. - -"Here and there, where a few of the steps had been hewn unusually far -apart, I was fain to cut a notch or two for the fingers before lowering -myself into the next one below. At last the rock rib was reached, and we -indulged in a rest for the first time since turning to descend. - -"Time, however, was precious, and we were soon under way again, -retracing our steps over the steep loose rocks at the base of the rib -till forced again on to the ice. - -"Oh, that everlasting hard ice-slope, so trustworthy yet so relentlessly -exacting! - -"Before we could clear the rocks, and as if by way of hint that the -mountain had had enough of us, and of me in particular (I could have -assured it the feeling was mutual), a flick of the rope sent my hat and -goggles flying down to keep company with Mummery's in the _bergschrund_, -and a sharp rolling stone, which I foolishly extended my hand to check, -gashed me so severely as to put climbing out of the question for more -than a week. As small pieces of ice had been whizzing down for some time -from above, though we saw no stones, it was satisfactory to find our -steps across the lower part of the couloir in sufficiently good order to -allow of our putting on a good pace, and we soon reached the sheltering -rock on the opposite side and the slopes below the _bergschrund_ wherein -our hats, after losing their heads, had found a grave. The intense -feeling of relief on regaining, at 5.55 P.M., safe and easy ground, -where the lives of the party were not staked on every step, is difficult -to describe, and was such as I had never before experienced. I think the -others felt something like the same sensation. Fatigue, kept at bay so -long as the stern necessity for caution lasted, seemed to come upon us -with a rush, though tempered with the sense of freedom from care -aforesaid, and I fancy our progress down the glacier snow was for a time -rather staggery. Though tired, we were by no means exhausted, and after -a short rest on a flat rock and a drink from a glacier runnel, found -ourselves sufficiently vigorous to make good use of the remaining -daylight to cross the intervening glaciers, moraines, and valley of -boulders, before commencing to skirt the tedious and, in the dark, -exasperating stony wastes of the Charmoz ridge. Sternly disregarding the -allurements of numerous stonemen, which here seem to grow wild, to the -confusion of those weak enough to trust them, we stumbled along amongst -the stones to the brow of the hill overlooking the hotel, where shouts -from friends greeted the appearance of our lantern, and, descending by -the footpath, we arrived among them at 10.30 P.M., more than fifty-four -hours after our departure on the 12th." - -[Illustration: ON A SNOW RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: MRS. AUBREY LE BLOND, 1903. By Royston Le Blond.] - -[Illustration: A HALT FOR LUNCH ABOVE THE SNOW LINE.] - -[Illustration: MRS. AUBREY LE BLOND. By Joseph Imboden. - -_To face_ p. 51.] - - - - -CHAPTER III - -SOME AVALANCHE ADVENTURES - - -We should never have got into such a position, but when definite orders -are not carried out the General must not be blamed. The adventure might -easily have cost all three of us our lives. - -This is how we came to be imperilling our necks on an incoherent -snow-ridge 13,000 feet above the sea. It was the end of September, and -my two guides and I were waiting at Zermatt to try the Dent Blanche, a -proceeding which, later on, was amply justified by success. Much fresh -snow had recently fallen, and the slopes of the mountains were running -down towards the valleys faster than the most active chamois could have -galloped up them. Idleness is an abomination to the keen climber, and -doubly so if he be an enthusiastic photographer, and the sun shone each -day from a cloudless sky. Something had to be done, but what could we -choose? All the safe second-class ascents up which one might wade -through fresh snow without risk, we had accomplished over and over -again. Something new to us was what we wanted, and what eventually we -found in the stately Hohberghorn. Now this peak is seldom ascended. It -is overtopped by two big neighbours, and until these have been done, no -one is likely to climb the less imposing peak. Furthermore, the -Hohberghorn is a grind, and though we got enough excitement and to spare -out of it, yet in our case the circumstances were peculiar. The view was -certain to be grand, and, _faute de mieux_, we decided to start for it. - -On this occasion, in addition to my guide of many years' standing, the -famous Joseph Imboden of St Nicholas, I had a second man, who had a -great local reputation in his native valley at the other end of -Switzerland (and deservedly so, as far as his actual climbing ability -was concerned), but who had never been on a rope with Imboden before. -This was the cause of the appalling risk we ran during our expedition. -We arrived in good time at the hut, and found another party, who -proposed going up the Dom, the highest mountain entirely in Switzerland -(14,900 feet) next day. Our way lay together for a couple of hours over -the great glacier, and we proceeded the following morning in magnificent -weather towards our respective peaks. - -It was heavy work ploughing our way through the soft new snow, and we -could not advance except very slowly. As a result, it was already -mid-day when we gained the ridge of the Hohberghorn, not far below the -summit. The sun streamed pitilessly down, the snow cracked and slipped -at every step. To understand what followed, our position must now be -made clear. Imboden, who led, was on the very crest of the ridge. Next -to him on the rope, at a distance of about 20 feet, was my place, also -on the ridge. At an equal distance behind me was the second guide. He -was a trifle below the ridge, on the side to our left. We stood still -for a moment, and then Imboden distinctly but very quietly remarked to -the other man, "Be on your guard. At any moment now we may expect an -avalanche." I never to this day can understand how he failed to grasp -what this meant. It should have been obvious that it was a warning to -look out, and at the first sign of approaching danger to step down on to -the other side of the ridge. Had not this been a perfectly simple thing -to do, we should not have continued the ascent, but the second guide -failed us hopelessly when the critical moment came. Imboden, to avoid a -small cornice or overhanging eave of snow to our right, now took a few -steps along and below the ridge to the left, while the man behind me -came in the tracks to the crest, and I followed the leader. From this -position the last man could in an instant have been down the slope to -his right, and have held us with the greatest ease. - -We advanced a yard or two further, and then the entire surface upon -which we stood commenced to move! A moment more and we were struggling -for our lives, dashing our axes through the rushing snow, and -endeavouring to arrest our wild career, which, unless checked at once, -would cause us to be precipitated down the entire face of the mountain, -to the glacier below. Then it was that the firm bed of snow beneath the -newer layer stood us in good stead. Our axes held, and, breathless, -bruised and startled, we found ourselves clinging to the slope, while -the avalanche, momentarily increasing in volume, thundered down towards -the snow-fields below, where at length, heaped high against the -mountain-side, it came to rest. - -We now took stock of the position. We were practically unhurt, but so -confused and rapid had been the slip that the rope was entangled round -us in a manner wonderful to behold. There was nothing to prevent us -reaching the summit, for every atom of fresh snow had been swept away -from the slope, so we continued our climb, and soon were able to rest on -the top. To this day, Imboden and I always look back to our adventure -on the Hohberghorn as the greatest peril either of us has ever faced. - -More than one instance has been recorded where, owing to the prompt -action of the last man on the rope, fatal accidents on snow-ridges have -been avoided. The two most famous occasions in Alpine annals[2] were -when Hans Grass saved his party on Piz Palue, and when Ulrich Almer -performed his marvellous feat on the Gabelhorn. It is true that in both -these cases the risk was due to the breaking away of a snow-cornice, but -the remedy was exactly the same as it ought to have been when our -avalanche was started. - -I have only to add that we found the other party at the hut, much -exhausted by their unsuccessful attempt on the Dom, and very anxious on -our account, as they both heard and saw the avalanche which had so -nearly ended our mountaineering career. - -The famous climber, Mr Tuckett, has very kindly allowed me to quote from -_Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers_, the following description of a narrow -escape from an avalanche while descending the Aletschhorn: - -"We had accomplished in safety a distance of scarcely more than 150 -yards when, as I was looking at the Jungfrau, my attention was -attracted by a sudden exclamation from Victor, who appeared to stagger -and all but lose his balance. At first, the idea of some sort of seizure -or an attack of giddiness presented itself, but, without stopping to -enquire, I at once turned round, drove my good 8-foot ash-pole as deeply -as possible through the surface layer of fresh snow into the firmer -stratum beneath, tightened the rope to give Victor support, and shouted -to Peter to do the same. All this was the work of an instant, and a -glance at once showed me what had happened. Victor was safe for the -moment, but a layer or _couche_ of snow, 10 inches to a foot in -thickness, had given way exactly beneath his feet, and first gently, and -then fleet as an arrow, went gliding down, with that unpleasant sound -somewhat resembling the escape of steam, which is so trying to the -nerves of the bravest man, when he knows its full and true significance. -At first a mass 80 to 100 yards in breadth and 10 or 15 in length alone -gave way, but the contagion spread, and ere another minute had elapsed -the slopes right and left of us for an extent of at least half a mile, -were in movement, and, like a frozen Niagara, went crashing down the -ice-precipices and _seracs_ that still lay between us and the Aletsch -glacier, 1800 to 2000 feet below. The spectacle was indescribably -sublime, and the suspense for a moment rather awful, as we were -clinging to an incline at least as steep as that on the Grindelwald side -of the Strahleck--to name a familiar example--and it was questionable -whether escape would be possible, if the layer of snow on the portion of -the slope we had just been traversing should give way before we could -retrace our steps. - -"Not a moment was to be lost; no word was spoken after the first -exclamation, and hastily uttered, 'Au col! et vite!' and then in dead -silence, with _batons_ held aloft like harpoons, ready to be plunged -into the lower and older layers of snow, we stole quietly but rapidly up -towards the now friendly-looking _corniche_, and in a few minutes stood -once more in safety on the ridge, with feelings of gratitude for our -great deliverance, which, though they did not find utterance in words, -were, I believe, none the less sincerely felt by all of us. 'Il n'a -manque que peu a un grand malheur,' quietly remarked Victor, who looked -exhausted, as well he might be after what he had gone through; but a -_goutte_ of cognac all round soon set us right again, and shouting to -Bennen, who was still in sight, though dwindled in size to a mere point, -we were soon beside him, running down the _neve_ of our old friend, the -Aren Glacier. The snow was now soft and the heat tremendous, and both -Bennen and Bohren showed signs of fatigue; but a rapid pace was still -maintained in spite of the frequent crevasses. Some were cleared in a -series of flying leaps, whilst into others which the snow concealed, one -and another would occasionally sink, amid shouts of laughter from his -companions, who, in their turn, underwent a similar fate. To the -carefully secured rope, which, with the alpenstock and ice axe, are the -mountaineer's best friends, we owed it that these sudden immersions were -a mere matter of joke; but even the sense of security which it confers -does not altogether prevent a 'creepy' sensation from being experienced, -as the legs dangle in vacancy, and the sharp metallic ring of the icy -fragments is heard as they clatter down into the dark blue depths -below." - -The higher and more snow-laden the mountain chain, the more risk is -there from avalanches. It seems practically certain that Mr Mummery met -his death in the Himalayas from an avalanche, and that Messrs Donkin and -Fox and their two Swiss guides perished in the Caucasus from a like -cause. Sir W. Martin Conway, in his book on the Himalayas, makes several -allusions to avalanches, and on at least one occasion, some members of -his party had a narrow escape. He relates the adventure as follows: - -[Illustration: A cutting through an immense avalanche which fell some -months previously.] - -[Illustration: The remains of a large avalanche.] - -[Illustration: An avalanche of stones.] - -[Illustration: A mountain chapel near Zermatt where special prayers are -offered for defence against avalanche. - -_To face_ p. 59.] - -"Zurbriggen and I had no more than set foot upon the grass, when we -beheld a huge avalanche-cloud descending over the whole width of the -ice-fall, utterly enveloping both it and a small rock-rib and couloir -beside it. Bruce and the Gurkhas were below the rib, and could only see -up the couloir. They thought the avalanche was a small one confined to -it, and so they turned back and ran towards the foot of the ice-fall. -This was no improvement in position, and there was nothing for them to -do then but to run straight away from it, and get as far out to the flat -glacier as they could. The fall started from the very top of the Lower -Burchi peak, and tumbled on to the plateau above the ice-fall; it flowed -over this, and came down the ice-fall itself. We saw the cloud before we -heard the noise, and then it only reached us as a distant rumble. We had -no means of guessing the amount of solid snow and ice that there might -be in the heart of the cloud. The rumble increased in loudness, and was -soon a thunder that swallowed up our puny shouts, so that Bruce could -not hear our warning. Had he heard he could easily have reached the -sheltered position we gained before the cloud came on him. Zurbriggen -and I cast ourselves upon our faces, but only the edge of the cloud and -an ordinary strong wind reached us. Our companions were entirely -enveloped in it. They afterwards described to us how they raced away -like wild men, jumping crevasses which they could not have cleared in -cold blood. When the snow just enveloped them, the wind raised by it -cast them headlong on the ice. This, however, was the worst that -happened. The snow peppered them all over, and soaked them to the skin, -but the solid part of the avalanche was happily arrested in the midst of -the ice-fall, and never came in sight. When the fog cleared they were -all so out of breath that for some minutes they could only stand and -regard one another in panting silence. They presently rejoined us, and -we halted for a time on the pleasant grass." - -In the olden days, before the great Alpine lines had tunnelled beneath -the mountains and made a journey from one side of the range to the other -in midwinter as safe and as comfortable as a run from London to -Brighton, passengers obliged to cross the Alps in winter or spring were -exposed to very real peril from avalanches. Messrs Newnes have -courteously allowed me to make a short extract from an article which -appeared in one of their publications, and in which is described the -adventures of two English ladies who were obliged to return home -suddenly from Innsbruck on account of the illness of a near relative. -Their shortest route was by _diligence_ to Constance, over the Arlberg -Pass, and although it was considered extremely dangerous at that time of -year--the beginning of May 1880--they resolved to make the attempt. Much -anxiety with regard to avalanches was felt in neighbouring villages, as -the sun had lately been very hot, and the snow had become rotten and -undermined. Owing to heavy falls during the previous winter, the -accumulation of snow was enormous, and thus the two travellers set out -under the worst possible auspices. The conductor of the _diligence_ -warned them of the danger, and told them on no account to open a window -or to make any movement which could shake the coach. He got in with them -and sat opposite, looking very worried and anxious. They reached the -critical part of their journey, and, to quote Mrs Brewer's words: - -"Suddenly a low, booming sound, like that of a cannon on a battlefield -or a tremendous peal of thunder, broke on our ears, swelling into a -deafening crash; and in a moment we were buried in a vast mass of snow. -One of the immense piles from the mountain above had crashed down upon -us, carrying everything with it. At the same moment we felt a violent -jerk of the coach, and heard a kind of sound which expressed terror; -but, happily, our vehicle did not turn over, as it seemed likely to do -for a minute or so. There we sat--for how long I know not--scarcely -able to breathe, the snow pressing heavily against the windows, and -utterly blocking out light and air, so that breathing was a painful -effort. And now came a curious sensation. It was an utter suspension of -thought, and of every mental and physical faculty. - -"True, in a sort of unconscious way I became aware that the guard was -sobbing out a prayer for his wife and children; but it had not the -slightest effect on me. - -"We might have been buried days and nights for all I knew, for I kept no -count of time. In reality, I believe it was but a couple of hours -between the fall of the avalanche and the first moment of hope, which -came in the form of men striking with pickaxes. The sound seemed to come -from a long distance--almost, as it were, from another world. - -"The guard, roused by the noise, said earnestly: 'Ach Gott! I thank -Thee.' And then, speaking to us, he said: 'Ladies, help is near!' - -"Gradually the sound of the digging and the voices of the men grew -nearer, till at length one window was open--the one overlooking the -valley; and the life-giving air stole softly in upon us. Even now, -however, we were told not to move; not that we had any inclination to do -so, for we were in a dazed, half-conscious condition. When at length we -used our eyes, it was to note that the valley did not seem so deep, and -that the villages with their church spires had disappeared; the meaning -of it was not far to seek. - -"We were both good German scholars, and knew several of the dialects, so -that we were able to learn a good deal of what had happened by listening -to the men's talk. The school inspector in his terror had lost all -self-control, and forgetful of the warnings given him, threw himself off -the seat and leaped into space, thereby endangering the safety of all. -He mercifully fell into one of the clumps of trees some distance down -the slope, and so escaped without very much damage to himself, except -shock to the system and bruises. The poor horses, however, fared -infinitely worse. The weight of the snow lifted the rings from the hooks -on the carriage, and at the same time carried the poor brutes down with -it into the valley--never again to do a day's work. - -"The difficulties still before us were very serious. We could neither go -backward nor forward, and there was danger of more avalanches falling. -The next posting village was still far ahead, and there was no chance of -our advancing a step until the brave body of men could cut a way through -or make a clearance, and even then time would be required to bring back -horses." - -The ladies were at last extricated from their still dangerous position, -and amid a scene of the greatest excitement, arrived at a little -Tyrolese village. The people could not do enough to welcome them, and -every kindness was shown to them. Thus ended a wonderfully narrow escape -for all who were concerned in the adventure. - -[Illustration: A mountain path.] - -[Illustration: A village completely buried beneath an avalanche.] - -[Illustration: Peasants of the mountains.] - -[Illustration: Terraces cut on the hill sides and planted with trees to -prevent the fall of avalanches. - -_To face_ p. 65.] - - - - -CHAPTER IV - -A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE - - -One of the treasures of collectors of Alpine books is a small volume in -Italian by Ignazio Somis. The British Museum has not only a copy of the -original, but also a couple of translations, from one of which, -published in 1768, I take the following account. I have left the quaint -old spelling and punctuation just as they were; they accentuate the -vividness and evident truth of this "True and Particular Account of the -most Surprising preservation and happy deliverance of three women," who -were buried for a month under an avalanche. The occurrence was fully -investigated by Ignazio Somis, who visited the village of Bergemoletto, -and obtained his narrative from the lips of one of the survivors. - -"In the month of February and March of the year 1755, we had in Turin, a -great fall of rain, the sky having been almost constantly overcast from -the ninth of February till the twenty-fourth of March. During this -interval, it rained almost every day, but snowed only on the morning of -the twenty-first of February, when the liquor of Reaumur's thermometer -stood but one degree above the freezing point. Now, as it often snows in -the mountains, when it only rains in the plain; it cannot appear -surprising that during this interval, there fell vast quantities of snow -in the mountains that surround us, and in course, several valancas[3] -were formed. In fact, there happened so many in different places on the -side of Aosta, Lanzo, Susa, Savoy, and the county of Nice, that by the -end of March, no less than two hundred persons had the misfortune of -losing their lives by them. Of these overwhelmed by these valancas, -three persons, however, Mary Anne Roccia Bruno, Anne Roccia, and -Margaret Roccia, had reason to think themselves in other respects, -extremely happy, having been dug alive on the twenty-fifth of April, out -of a stable, under the ruins of which, they had been buried, the -nineteenth of March, about nine in the morning, by a valanca of snow, -forty-two feet higher than the roof, to the incredible surprise of all -those who saw them, and afterwards heard them relate how they lived all -this while, with death, as we may say, continually staring them in the -face. - -"The road from Demonte to the higher valley of Stura, runs amidst many -mountains, which, joining one another, and sometimes rising to a great -height, form a part of those Alps, by historians and geographers, called -maritime Alps, separating the valley of Stura and Piedmont, from -Dauphiny and the county of Nice. Towards the middle of the road leading -to the top of these mountains, and on the left of the river Stura, we -meet with a village called Bergemolo, passing through which village, and -still keeping the road through the said valley, we, at about a mile -distance, arrive at a little hamlet called Bergemoletto, containing -about one hundred and fifty souls. From this place there run two narrow -lanes, both to the right and left, one less steep and fatiguing than the -other, and in some measure along two valleys, to the mountains. The -summit of the mountain makes the horizon an angle much greater than 45 deg., -and so much greater in some places, as to be in a manner perpendicular, -so that it is a very difficult matter to climb it, even by a winding -path. Now it was from the summit of the aforesaid mountains that fell -the valancas of snow, which did so much mischief, and almost entirely -destroyed the hamlet of Bergemoletto. - -"The bad weather which prevailed in so many other places, prevailed -likewise in the Foresta of Bergemoletto. By this word Foresta, the -Alpineers understand the villages dispersed over the vallies covered -with small trees and bushes, and surrounded with high mountains; for it -began to snow early in March, and the fall increased so much on the 16, -17, 18 and 19, that many of the inhabitants began to apprehend, and not -without reason, that the weight of that which was already fallen, and -still continued to fall, might crush their houses, built with stones -peculiar to the country, cemented by nothing but mud, and a very small -portion of lime, and covered with thatch laid on a roof of shingles and -large thin stones, supported by thick beams. They, therefore, got upon -their roofs to lighten them of the snow. At a little distance from the -church, stood the house of Joseph Roccia, a man of about fifty, husband -of Mary Anne, born in Demonte, of the family of Bruno; who, with his son -James, a lad of fifteen, had, like his neighbours, got upon the roof of -his house on the 19th in the morning in order to lessen the weight on -it, and thereby prevent its destruction. In the meantime the clergyman -who lived in the neighbourhood, and was about leaving home, in order to -repair to the church, and gather his people together to hear mass; -perceiving a noise towards the top of the mountains, and turning his -trembling eyes towards the quarter from whence he thought it came, -discovered two valancas driving headlong towards the village. Wherefore -raising his voice he gave Joseph notice, instantly to come down from -the roof, to avoid the impending danger, and then immediately retreated -himself into his own house. - -"These two valancas met and united, so as to form but one valanca which -continued to descend towards the valley, where, on account of the -increase of its bulk, the diminution of its velocity and the insensible -declivity of the plane it stopped and arrested by the neighbouring -mountain, though it covered a large tract of land, did no damage either -to the houses or the inhabitants. Joseph Roccia, who had formerly -observed that the fall of one valanca was often attended with that of -others, immediately came off the roof at the priest's notice, and with -his son fled as hard as he could towards the church, without well -knowing, however, which way he went; as is usually the case with the -Alpineers, when they guess by the report in the air, that some valanca -is falling or seeing it fall with their own eyes. The poor man had -scarce advanced forty steps, when hearing his son fall just at his -heels, he turned about to assist him, and taking him up, saw the spot on -which his house, his stable, and those of some of his neighbours stood, -converted into a huge heap of snow, without the least sign of either -walls or roofs. Such was his agony at this sight, and at the thoughts -of having lost in an instant, his wife, his sister, his family, and all -the little he had saved, with many years increasing labour and economy, -that hale and hearty, as he was, he immediately, as if heaven and earth -were come together, lost his senses, swooned away, and tumbled upon the -snow. His son now helped him, and he came to himself little by little; -till at last, by leaning upon him, he found himself in a condition to -get on the valanca, and, in order to re-establish his health there, set -out for the house of his friend, Spirito Roccia, about one hundred feet -distant from the spot, where he fell. Mary Anne, his wife, who was -standing with her sister-in-law Anne, her daughter Margaret, and her son -Anthony, a little boy two years old, at the door of the stable, looking -at the people throwing the snow from off the houses, and waiting for the -ringing of the bell that was to call them to prayers, was about taking a -turn to the house, in order to light a fire, and air a shirt for her -husband, who could not but want that refreshment after his hard labour. -But before she could set out, she heard the priest cry out to them to -come down quickly, and raising her trembling eyes, saw the foresaid -valancas set off, and roll down the side of the mountain, and at the -same instant heard a horrible report from another quarter, which made -her retreat back quickly with her family, and shut the door of the -stable. Happy it was for her, that she had time to do so; this noise -being occasioned by another immense valanca, the whole cause of all the -misery and distress, she had to suffer for so long a time. And it was -this very valanca, over which Joseph, her husband was obliged to pass -after his fit, in his way to the house of Spirito Roccia. - -"Some minutes after the fall of the valanca another huge one broke off -driving along the valley and beat down the houses which it met in its -course. This valanca increased greatly, by the snow over which it -passed, in its headlong course, and soon reached with so much -impetuosity, the first fallen valanca, it carried away great part of it; -then returning back with this reinforcement, it demolished the houses, -stopping in the valley which it had already overwhelmed in its first -progress. So that the height of the snow, Paris measure, amounted to -more than seventy-seven feet; the length of it to more than four hundred -and twenty-seven and the breadth above ninety-four. Some people affirm -that the concussion of the air occasioned by this valanca, was so great, -that it was heard at Bergemolo, and even burst open some doors and -windows at that place. This I know that nothing escaped it in -Bergemoletto, but a few houses, the church, and the house of John -Arnaud. - -"Being therefore gathered together, in order to sum up their -misfortunes, the inhabitants first counted thirty houses overwhelmed; -and then every one calling over those he knew, twenty-two souls were -missing, of which number, was D. Giulio Caesare Emanuel, their parish -priest, who had lived among them forty years. The news of this terrible -disaster, soon spread itself over the neighbourhood, striking all those -who heard it, with grief and compassion. All the friends and relations -of the sufferers, and many others, flocked of their own accord, from -Bergemolo and Demonte; and many were dispatched by the magistrates of -these places, to try if they could give any relief to so many poor -creatures, who, perhaps, were already suffocated by the vast heap of -snow that lay upon them; so that by the day following, the number -assembled on this melancholy occasion amounted to three hundred. Joseph -Roccia, notwithstanding his great love for his wife and family, and his -desire to recover part of what he had lost, was in no condition to -assist them for five days, owing to the great fright and grief, -occasioned by so shocking an event, and the swoon which overtook him at -the first sight of it. In the meantime, the rest were trying, if, by -driving iron-rods through the hardened snow, they could discover any -roofs; but they tried in vain. The great solidity and compactness of the -valanca, the vast extent of it in length, breadth and heighth, together -with the snow, that still continued to fall in great quantities, eluded -all their efforts; so that after some days' labour, they thought proper -to desist from their trials, finding that it was throwing away their -time and trouble to no purpose. The husband of poor Mary Anne, no sooner -recovered his strength, than in company with his son, and Anthony and -Joseph Bruno, his brothers-in-law who had come to his assistance from -Demonte, where they lived, did all that lay in his power to discover the -spot, under which his house, and the stable belonging to it, were -situated. But neither himself, nor his relations, could make any -discovery capable of affording them the smallest ray of comfort; though -they worked hard for many days, now in one place, and now in another, -unable to give up the thoughts of knowing for certain, whether any of -their family was still alive, or if they had under the snow and the -ruins of the stable, found, at once, both death and a grave. But it was -all labour lost, so that, at length, he thought proper to return to the -house of Spirito Roccia, and there wait, till, the weather growing -milder, the melting of the snow should give him an opportunity of paying -the last duty to his family, and recovering what little of his substance -might have escaped this terrible calamity. - -"Towards the end of March, the weather, through the lengthening of the -days, and the setting in of the warm winds, which continued to blow till -about the twentieth of April, began to grow mild and warm; and, of -course, the great valanca to fall away by the melting of the snow and -ice that composed it; so that little by little, the valley began to -assume its pristine form. This change was very sensible, especially by -the eighteenth of April, so that the time seemed to be at hand for the -surviving inhabitants of Bergemoletto to resume their interrupted -labours, with some certainty of recovering a good part of what they had -lost on the unfortunately memorable morning of the nineteenth of March. -Accordingly, they dispersed themselves over the valanca, some trying in -one place, and some in another, now with long spades, and another time -with thick rods of iron, and other instruments proper to break the -indurated snow. One of the first houses they discovered by this means, -was that of Louisa Roccia, in which they found her dead body, and that -of one of her sons. Next day, in the house called the confreria, that -had two rooms on the ground floor, and one above them, they found the -body of D. Giulio Caesare Emanuel, with his beads in his hand. Joseph -Roccia, animated by these discoveries, set himself with new spirits -about discovering the situation of his house, and the stable belonging -to it; and with spades and iron crows, made several and deep holes in -the snow, throwing great quantities of earth into them; earth mixed -with water, being very powerful in destroying the strong cohesion of -snow and ice. On the twenty-fourth, having made himself an opening two -feet deep into the valanca, he began to find the snow softer and less -difficult to penetrate; wherefore, driving down a long stick, he had the -good fortune of touching the ground with it. - -"It was no small addition to Joseph's strength and spirit, to be thus -able to reach the bottom; so that he would have joyfully continued his -labour, and might perhaps on that very day, had it not been too far -advanced, have recovered some part of what he was looking for, and found -that which, assuredly, he by no means expected to meet with. When, -therefore, he desisted for that time, it was with much greater -reluctance than he had done any of the preceding days. The anxiety of -Joseph, during the following night, may well be compared to that of the -weather-beaten mariner, who finding himself, after a long voyage, at the -mouth of his desired port, is yet, by the coming on of night obliged to -remain on the inconstant waves till next morning. Wherefore, at the -first gleam of light, he, with his son, hastened back to the spot, where -the preceding day he had reached the ground with the stick, and began to -work upon it again; but he had not worked long, when lo, to his great -surprise, who should he see coming to his assistance but his two -brothers-in-law Joseph and Anthony Bruno. - -"Anthony, it seems, the night between the preceding Thursday and Friday, -being then in Delmonte, dreamed that there appeared to him, with a pale -and troubled countenance, his sister Mary Anne Roccia, who, with an -earnestness intermixed with grief and hope, called upon him for -assistance in the following words: - -"'Anthony, though you all look upon me as dead in the stable where the -valanca of snow overwhelmed me on the nineteenth of March, God has kept -me alive. Hasten therefore to my assistance, and to relieve me from my -present wretched condition; in you, my brother, have I placed all my -hopes, dont abandon me; help, help I beseech you.' Anthony's -imagination, was so affected by the thoughts of thus seeing his sister, -and hearing her utter these piteous words, that he immediately started -up, and calling out to his brother Joseph, he acquainted him with what -he had seen and heard. They both, therefore, as soon as it was day, set -out for Bergemoletto, where they arrived a little before eight, tired -and out of breath, for they seemed to have their sister continually -before their eyes, pressing them for help and assistance. Having -therefore taken a little rest and refreshment, they set out again for -the place, where Joseph Roccia, and many others, were hard at work in -looking for the wrecks of their houses. Joseph had left the spot, where, -the day before he thought he had reached the ground, and was trying to -reach it in other places. His brothers-in-law immediately fell to work -with him, and making many new holes in the snow, the interior parts of -which were not so very hard, with the same iron rods, with earth and -with long poles, they at last, about ten, discovered the so long sought -for house, but found no dead bodies in it. Knowing that the stable did -not lie one hundred feet from the house, they immediately directed their -search towards it, and proceeding in the same manner, about noon, they -got a long pole through a hole, from whence issued a hoarse and languid -voice, which seemed to say: 'help, my dear husband, help, my dear -brother, help.' The husband and brother thunderstruck, and at the same -time encouraged by these words, fell to their work with redoubled -ardour, in order to clear away the snow, and open a sufficient way for -themselves, to the place from whence the voice came, and which grew more -and more distinct as the work advanced. It was not long, therefore, -before they had made a pretty large opening, through which (none minding -the danger he exposed himself to) Anthony descended, as into a dark -pit, asking who it was, that could be alive in such a place. Mary Anne -knew him by his voice, and answered with a trembling and broken accent, -intermixed with tears of joy. 'Tis I, my dear brother, who am still -alive in company with my daughter and my sister-in-law, who are at my -elbow. God, in whom I have always trusted, still hoping that he would -inspire you with the thought of coming to our assistance, has been -graciously pleased to keep us alive.' God, who had preserved them to -this moment, and was willing they should live, inspired Anthony with -such strength and spirits, that, notwithstanding the surprise and -tenderness with which so joyful and at the same time so sad a sight must -have affected him, had presence of mind enough to acquaint his -fellow-labourers, all anxiously waiting for the report of his success, -that Mary Anne, Margaret, and Anne Roccia were still alive. Whereupon -Joseph Roccia, and Joseph Bruno, enlarging the passage as well as they -could, immediately followed him into the ruins; whilst the other -Alpineers, scattered over the valanca in quest of their lost substance, -and the dead bodies of their relations, on the son's calling out to -them, flocked round the mouth of the pit, to behold so extraordinary a -sight; not a little heightened by that of two live goats scampering out -of the opening. In the meantime, those who had descended into the hole, -were contriving how to take out of it the poor and more than half dead -prisoners, and convey them to some place, where they might recover -themselves. The first thing they did was to raise them up, and take them -out of the manger in which they had been so long stowed. They then -placed them one by one on their shoulders, and lifted them up to those -who stood round the mouth of the pit, who with very great difficulty -took hold of them by the arms, and drew them out of their dark -habitation. Mary Anne, on being exposed to the open air, and seeing the -light, was attacked by a very acute pain in the eyes, which greatly -weakened her sight, and was attended with so violent a fainting fit, -that she had almost like to have lost, in the first moment of her -deliverance, that life, which she had so long and with such difficulty -preserved. But this was a consequence that might be easily foreseen. She -had been thirty-seven days, secluded, in a manner entirely, from the -open air; nor had the least ray of light, in all that time, penetrated -her pupils. - -"Her son found means to bring her to herself with a little melted snow, -there being nothing else at hand fit for the purpose, and the accident -that happened her was improved into a rule for treating the companions -of her misfortune. They, therefore, covered all their faces, and wrapped -them up so well, as to leave them but just room to breathe, and in this -condition took them to the house of John Arnaud, where Mary Anne was -entirely recovered from her fit, by a little generous wine. They then -directly placed them in some little beds put up in the stable, which was -moderately warm, and almost entirely without light, and prepared for -them a mess of rye meal gruel, mixed with a little butter; but they -could swallow but very little of it." - - - - -CHAPTER V - -A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE--(_continued_) - - -"It is now proper I should say something of the most marvellous -circumstance, attending this very singular and surprising accident, I -mean their manner of supporting life, during so long and close a -confinement. I shall relate what I have heard of it from their own -mouths, being the same, in substance, with what Count Nicholas de -Brandizzo, intendant of the city and province of Cuneo, heard from them -on the sixteenth of May, when, by order of our most benevolent -sovereign, he repaired to Bergemoletto, effectually to relieve these -poor women, and the rest of the inhabitants, who had suffered by the -valanca. - -"To begin then; on the morning of the twenty-ninth of March, our three -poor women, expecting every minute to hear the bell toll for prayers, -had in the mean time, taken shelter from the rigour of the weather, in a -stable built with stones, such as are usually found in these quarters, -with a roof composed of large thin stones, not unlike slate, laid on a -beam ten inches square, and covered with a small quantity of straw, and -with a pitch sufficient to carry off the rain, hail or snow, that might -fall upon it. In the same stable were six goats, (four of which I heard -nothing of) an ass and some hens. Adjoining to this stable, was a little -room, in which they had fixed a bed, and used to lay up some provisions, -in order to sleep in it in bad weather without being obliged to go for -anything to the dwelling-house, which lay about one hundred feet from -it. I have already taken notice, that Mary Anne was looking from the -door of the stable at her husband and son, who were clearing the roof of -its snow, when warned by a horrible noise, the signal by which the -Alpineer knows the tumbling of the valancas, she immediately took -herself in with her sister-in-law, her daughter, and her little boy of -two years old, and shut the door, telling them the reason for doing it -in such a hurry. Soon after they heard a great part of the roof give -way, and some stones fall on the ground, and found themselves involved -on all sides with a pitchy darkness; all which they attributed, and with -good reason, to the fall of some valanca. Upon this, they for some time -thought proper to keep a profound silence, to try if they could hear any -noise, and by that means have the comfort of knowing that help was at -hand, but they could hear nothing. They therefore set themselves to -grope about the stable, but without being able to meet with anything -but solid snow. Anne light upon the door, and opened it, hoping she had -found out the way to escape the imminent danger they thought they were -in of the buildings tumbling about their ears; but she could not -distinguish the least ray of light, nor feel any thing but a hard and -impenetrable wall of snow, with which she acquainted her fellow -prisoners. They, therefore, immediately began to bawl out with all their -might; 'help, help, we are still alive'; repeating it several times; but -not hearing any answer, Anne put the door to again. They continued to -grope about the stable, and Mary Anne having light upon the manger, it -occurred to her, that, as it was full of hay, they might take up their -quarters there, and enjoy some repose, till it should please the -Almighty to send them assistance. The manger was about twenty inches -broad, and lay along a wall, which, by being on one side supported by an -arch, was enabled to withstand the shock, and upheld the chief beam of -the roof, in such a manner, as to prevent the poor women from being -crushed to pieces by the ruins. Mary Anne placed herself in the manger, -putting her son by her, and then advised her daughter and her -sister-in-law to do so too. Upon this, the ass which was tied to the -manger, frightened by the noise, began to bray and prance at a great -rate; so that, fearing lest he should bring the parapet of the manger, -or even the wall itself about their ears; they immediately untied the -halter, and turned him adrift. In going from the manger, he stumbled -upon a kettle that happened to lie in the middle of the stable, which -put Mary Anne upon picking it up, and laying it by her, as it might -serve to melt the snow in for their drink, in case they should happen to -be confined long enough to want that resource. Anne, approving this -thought, got down, and groping on the floor till she had found it, came -back to the manger. - -"In this situation the good women continued many hours, every moment -expecting to be relieved from it; but, at last, being too well -convinced, that they had no immediate relief to expect, they began to -consider how they might support life, and what provisions they had with -them for that purpose. Anne recollected that the day before she had put -some chestnuts into her pocket, but, on counting them, found they -amounted only to fifteen. Their chief hopes, therefore, and with great -reason now rested on thirty or forty cakes, which two days before had -been laid up in the adjoining room. The reader may well imagine, though -Anne had never told me a word of it, with what speed and alertness she -must, on recollecting these cakes, have got out of the manger, to see -and find out the door of the room where they lay; but it was to no -purpose; she roved and roved about the stable to find out what she -wanted, so that she was obliged to come as she went, and take up her -seat again amongst her fellow-sufferers, who still comforted themselves -with the hopes of being speedily delivered from that dark and narrow -prison. In the mean while, finding their appetite return, they had -recourse to their chestnuts. The rest of the chestnuts they reserved for -a future occasion. They then addressed themselves to God, humbly -beseeching him to take compassion on them, and vouchsafe in his great -mercy to rescue them from their dark grave, and from the great miseries -they must unavoidably suffer, in case it did not please him to send them -immediate assistance. They spent many hours in ejaculations of this -kind, and then thinking it must be night, they endeavoured to compose -themselves. Margaret and the little boy, whose tender years prevented -their having any idea of what they had to suffer in their wretched -situation, or any thought of death, and of what they must suffer, before -they could be relieved, fell asleep. But it was otherwise with Mary Anne -and Anne, who could not get the least rest, and spent the whole night in -prayer, or in speaking of their wretched condition, and comforting one -another with the hopes of being speedily delivered from it. As it seemed -to them, after many hours, that it was day again, they endeavoured to -keep up their spirits with the thoughts, that Joseph with the rest of -their friends and relations not getting any intelligence of their -situation, would not fail of doing all that lay in their power to come -at them. The sensation of hunger was earliest felt by the two youngest; -and the little boy crying out for something to eat, and there being -nothing for him but the chestnuts, Anne gave him three. - -"I said, that these women seemed to have some notion of the approach of -day and night, but I should never have dreamed in what manner this idea -could be excited in them, shut up as they were in a body of ice, -impervious to the least ray of light, had not they themselves related it -to me. The hens shut up in the same prison, were it seems the clocks, -which by their clucking all together, made them think the first day that -it was night, and then again after some interval that it was day again. -This is all the notion they had of day and night for two weeks together; -after which, not hearing the hens make any more noise, they no longer -knew when it was day or night. - -"This day the poor women and the boy supported themselves with their -chestnuts; and at the return of the usual signal of night, the boy and -Margaret went to sleep; while the mother and aunt spent it in -conversation and prayer. On the next day the ass by his braying, gave -now and then, for the last time, some signs of life. On the other hand, -the poor prisoners had something to comfort themselves with; for they -discovered two goats making up to the manger. This, therefore, was a -joyful event, and they gave the goats some of the hay they sat upon in -the manger, shrunk up with their knees to their noses. It then came into -Anne's head to try if she could not get some milk from the milch goat; -and recollecting that they used to keep a porringer under the manger for -that purpose, she immediately got down to look for it, and happily found -it. The goat suffered herself to be milked, and yielded almost enough to -fill the cup which contained above a pint. On this they lived the third -day. The night following the boy and the girl slept as usual, while -neither of the two others closed their eyes. Who can imagine how long -the time must have appeared to them, and how impatient they must have -been to see an end to their sufferings? This, after offering their -prayers to the Almighty, was the constant subject of their conversation. -'O, my husband,' Mary Anne used to cry out, 'if you two are not buried -under some of the valancas and dead; why do not you make haste to give -me, your sister, and children, that assistance which we so much stand in -need of? We are thank God, still alive, but cannot hold out much longer, -so it will soon be too late to think of us.' 'Ah, my dear brother,' -added Anne, 'in you next to God, have we placed all our trust. We are -alive, indeed, and it depends upon you to preserve our lives, by digging -us out of the snow and the ruins, in which we lie buried.' 'But let us -still hope,' both of them added, 'that as God has been pleased to spare -our lives, and provide us with the means of prolonging it, he will still -in his great mercy put it into the hearts of our friends and relations -to use all their endeavours to save us.' To this discourse succeeded new -prayers, after which they composed themselves as well as they could, in -order to get, if possible, a little sleep. - -"The hens having given the usual signal of the return of day, they began -again to think on the means of spinning out their lives. Mary Anne -bethought herself anew of the cakes put up in the adjacent room; and -upon which, could they but get at them, they might subsist a great while -without any other nourishment. On the first day of their confinement, -they had found in the manger a pitch fork, which they knew used to be -employed in cleaning out the stable, and drawing down hay through a -large hole in the hay-loft, which lay over the vault. Anne observed, -that such an instrument might be of service in breaking the snow, and -getting at the cakes, could they but recover the door leading into the -little room. She, therefore, immediately got out of the manger, from -which she had not stirred since the first day, and groping about, -sometimes meeting with nothing but snow, sometimes with the wall, and -sometimes loose stones, she, at length, light upon a door, which she -took for the stable door, and endeavoured to open it as she had done the -first day, but without success; an evident sign that the superincumbent -snow had acquired a greater degree of density, and pressed more forcibly -against it. She, therefore, made step by step, the best of her way back -to the manger, all the time conversing with her fellow-sufferers; and -taking the fork with her, continued to rove and grope about, till at -last she light upon a smooth and broad piece of wood, which to the touch -had so much the appearance of the little door, as to make her hope she -had at last found what she had been so earnestly looking for. She then -endeavoured to open it with her hand, but finding it impossible, told -the rest that she had a mind to employ the pitch fork; but Mary Anne -dissuaded her from doing so. 'Let us,' said she, 'leave the cakes where -they are a little longer, and not endanger our lives any further, by -endeavouring to preserve them. Who knows but with the fork, you might -make such destruction, as to bring down upon our heads, that part of the -stable that still continues together, and which, in its fall, could not -fail of crushing us to pieces. No, God keep us from that misfortune. -Lay down your fork Anne, and come back to us, submitting yourself to the -holy will of the Almighty, and patiently accept at his hands whatever he -may please to send us.' Anne, moved by such sound and affecting -arguments and reasons, immediately let the fork fall out of her hands, -and returned to the manger. 'Let us,' continued Mary Anne, 'let us make -as much as we can of our nursing goats, and endeavour to keep them alive -by supplying them with hay. Here is a good deal in the manger, and it -occurs to me, that when that is gone, we may supply them from another -quarter, for by putting up my hand, trying what was above me, I have -discovered that there is hay in the loft, and that the hole to it is -open, and just over our heads; so that we have nothing to do, but to -pull it down for the goats, whose milk we may subsist upon, till it -shall please God to dispose otherwise of us." - -This reasoning was not only sound in itself, but supported by facts; for -ever since their confinement, they had heard stones fall from time to -time upon the ground, and these stones could be no others than those of -the building, which the shock of the valanca had first loosened, and -which the weight it every day acquired by encreasing in density, -afterwards enabled it to displace. Wherefore, had she happened to -disturb with the pitch-fork, as there was the greatest reason to fear -she might, any of those parts, which, united together, served to keep -up the beam that supported the great body of snow, under which they lay -buried, the fall of the stable, and their own destruction, must have -infallibly been the consequence of it. - -"This day the sensation of hunger was more and more lively and -troublesome, without their having anything to allay it with but snow, -and the milk yielded them by one of the goats their fellow prisoners. I -say one of the goats for as yet they had milked but one of them, -thinking it would be useless, or rather hurtful, even if they could, to -take any milk from that in kid. Anne had recourse to the other, and in -the whole day, got from her about two pints of milk, on which, with the -addition of a little snow, they subsisted." - -The little boy, unable to struggle against the terrible conditions, grew -rapidly weaker and weaker, and the time had now come when he passed -painlessly away. - -"The death of this poor child proved the severest trial that the three -women, the two eldest especially, had to suffer during their long -confinement; and from this unfortunate day, the fear of death, which -they considered as at no great distance, began to haunt them more and -more. The little nourishment, which the goat yielded the poor women, had -made them suffer greatly on the preceding days; they were, besides, -benumbed, or rather frozen with the intense cold. Add to this the -necessary, but inconvenient and tormenting posture of their feet, knees, -and every other part of their bodies; the snow, which melting over their -heads, perpetually trickled down their backs, so that their clothes, and -their whole bodies were perfectly drenched with it: they were often on -the point of swooning away, and obliged to keep themselves from -fainting, by handling the snow, and putting some of it into their -mouths; the thirst with which their mouths were constantly burnt up; the -thoughts, that in all this time no one had been at the pains to look for -and relieve them; the consideration, that all they had hitherto -suffered, was nothing in comparison of what they had still to suffer -before they could recover their liberty, or sink under the weight of all -the evils which encompassed them; all these, certainly, were -circumstances sufficient to render them to the last degree, wretched and -miserable. Add to this, that the milk of their fond and loving nurse, -fell away little by little, till at length, instead of about two pints, -which she, in the beginning used to yield, they could not now get so -much as a pint from her. The hay that lay in the manger was all out, and -it was but little the poor women could draw out of the hole which lay -above them; so that as the goats had but little fodder, little -sustenance could be expected from that which they thought proper to -milk. These animals were become so tame and familiar, in consequence of -the fondness shewn them, that they always came on the first call to the -person that was to milk them, affectionately licking her face and hands. -Anne, encouraged by this tameness of theirs, bethought herself of -accustoming them to leap upon the manger, and from thence upon her -shoulders, so as to reach the hole of the hay-loft, and feed themselves; -so apt is hard necessity to inspire strength and ingenuity. She began by -the goat that yielded them milk, helping her up into the manger, and -then putting her upon her shoulders. This had the desired effect, the -animal being thereby enabled to reach much further with its head, than -they could with their hands. They did then the same by the other goat, -from whom, as soon as she should drop her kid, they expected new relief. -She, too, in the same manner, found means to get at the hay, which -afforded the poor women some relief in the midst of their pressing -necessity. After this day, the goats required no further assistance, -they so soon learned to leap of themselves on the manger, and from -thence on the women's shoulders. But we must not conclude that hunger -was the chief of the poor women's sufferings; far from it. After the -first days, during which it proved a sore torment to them, they through -necessity, grew so accustomed to very little and very light nourishment, -that they no longer felt any sensation of that kind, but lived -contentedly on the small quantity of milk they could get from their -goat, mixed with a little snow. Their breath was what gave them most -uneasiness; for it began to be very difficult on the fifth or sixth day, -every inspiration being attended with the sensation of a very heavy and -almost insupportable load upon them. - -"They now had lost all means of guessing at the returns of night and -day, and their only employment was to recommend themselves fervently to -God, beseeching him to take compassion of them, and at length, put an -end to their miseries, which increased from day to day. At last, their -nurse growing dry, they found themselves without any milk, and obliged -to live upon snow alone for two or three days, Mary Anne not approving -an expedient proposed by her sister. This was to endeavour to find the -carcasses of the hens; for as they had not heard them for some days -past, they had sufficient reason to think they were dead; and then eat -them, as the only thing with which they could prolong life. But Mary -Anne, rightly judging that it would be almost impossible to strip them -clean of their feathers, and that besides, the flesh might be so far -putrified, as to do them more harm than good, thought proper to dissuade -her sister from having recourse to this expedient. But the unspeakable -providence of God, whose will it was that they should live, provided -them with new means of subsistence, when least they expected it, by the -kidding of the other goat. By this event, they judged themselves to be -about the middle of April; wherefore, after offering God their most -humble thanks, for having preserved them so long, in the midst of so -many, and such great difficulties they again beseeched him to assist -them effectually, till they could find an opportunity of escaping their -doleful prison, and see an end to their great sufferings. Their hopes of -this their humble supplication being heard, were raised on the -appearance of this new supply, and on their reflecting that the snow -begins to thaw in April, in consequence of which that about the stable -would soon dissolve enough to let some ray of light break in upon them. -Mary Anne told me, that, though she was thoroughly sensible of the -badness of her condition, in which it was impossible for her to hold out -much longer, and saw it every day grow worse and worse; she never, -however, despaired of her living to be delivered. For my part, I cannot -sufficiently admire the courage and intrepidity of Anne, who told me, -that in all this time she never let a tear escape her but once. This was -on its occurring to her, that, as they must at length perish for want, -it might fall to her lot to die last. For the thought of finding herself -amidst the dead bodies of her sister and her niece, herself too in a -dying condition, terrified and afflicted her to such a degree, that she -could no longer command her tears, but wept bitterly. - -"I observed, that the goat had kidded. This event afforded the poor -women a new supply of milk, Anne for a while getting two porringers at a -time from her, with which they recruited themselves a little. But as the -goats began to fall short of hay, the milk of the only one that gave -them any, began to lessen in proportion, so that at length they saw -themselves reduced to a single, and even half a porringer. It was, -therefore, happy for them, that the time drew nigh, in which God had -purposed to rescue them from their horrible prison and confinement, and -put an end to their sufferings. One time they thought they could hear a -noise of some continuance at no great distance from them. This was -probably the 20th, when the parish priest's body was found. And, upon -it, they all together raised their weak and hoarse voices, crying out, -'Help, help!' but the noise ceased, and they this time neither saw nor -heard anything else that might serve as a token of their deliverance -being at hand. However, this noise alone was sufficient to make them -address God with greater fervour than ever, beseeching him to have -compassion on them, and to confirm them still more and more in their -warm hopes, that the end of their long misery was not far off. In fact, -they again heard another noise, and that nearer them, as though -something had fallen to the ground. On this they again raised their -voices, and again cried out, 'Help, help': but no one answered, and soon -after the noise itself entirely ceased. Their opinion concerning this -noise, and in this they certainly were not mistaken, was that it came -from the people, who were at work to find them, and who left off at the -approach of night, and went home with a design to return to their labour -the next morning. After the noise of the body fallen to the ground in -their neighbourhood, they seemed for the first time to perceive some -glimpse of light. The appearance of it scared Anne and Margaret to the -last degree, as they took it for a sure fore-runner of death, and -thought it was occasioned by the dead bodies; for it is a common opinion -with the peasants that those wandering wild-fires, which one frequently -sees in the open country, are a sure presage of death to the persons -constantly attended by them, which ever way they turn themselves; and -they accordingly call them death fires. But Mary Anne, was very far -from giving in to so silly a notion. On the contrary the light inspired -her with new courage, and she did all that lay in her power to dissipate -the fears of her sister and daughter, revive their hopes in God, and -persuade them that their deliverance and the end of all their sufferings -was at hand; insisting that this light could be no other than the light -of heaven, which had, at last, reached the stable, in consequence of the -valanca's melting, and still more in consequence of the constant boring -and digging into it by their relations, in order to come at their dead -bodies. Mary Anne guessed right for it was the next day that Anthony -descended into the ruins of the stable, and to his unspeakable surprise -found the poor women alive, blessing and exalting the most high, and -restored them from darkness to light, from danger to security, from -death to life, by drawing them out of the manger, and removing them to -the house of Joseph Arnaud, where they continued to the end of July. - -"Thirty-seven entire days did these poor women live in the most horrible -sufferings occasioned no less by filth and the disagreeable posture they -were confined to, than by cold and hunger; but the Lord was with them. -He kept them alive, and they are still living, in a new cottage built -the same year in the Foresta of Bergemoletto, at no great distance from -their former habitation." - - - - -CHAPTER VI - -AN EXCITING CAUCASIAN ASCENT - - -The following account of the ascent of Gestola, in the Central Caucasus, -is taken from _The Alpine Journal_, and the author, Mr C. T. Dent, has -most kindly revised it for this work, and has added a note as follows: - -"At the time (1886) when this expedition was made, the topography of the -district was very imperfectly understood. The mountain climbed was -originally described as Tetnuld Tau--Tau = Mountain. Since the -publication of the original paper a new survey of the whole district has -been carried out by the Russian Government and the nomenclature much -altered. The peak of Tetnuld is really to the south of Gestola. The -nomenclature has in the following extract been altered so as to -correspond with that at present in use and officially sanctioned." - -The party consisted of Mr Dent, the late Mr W. F. Donkin, and two Swiss -guides. They had safely accomplished the first part of their ascent of a -hitherto unclimbed peak, and were on the ridge and face to face with -the problem of how to reach the highest point. After describing the -glorious scenery which lay around them, Mr Dent writes: - -"Woven in between all these peaks lay a wilderness of crevassed slopes, -jagged rock ridges, and stretching glaciers, bewildering in their beauty -and complexity. To see the wondrous sights that were crowded into those -few minutes while we remained on the ridge, we would willingly have gone -five times further and fared ten times worse. In high spirits we turned -to the left (S.S.E.), and began our journey along the ridge which was to -lead us to Gestola, ever keeping an eye on the snowy form of Tetnuld, -and marvelling whether it would overtop our peak or not. For a few -steps, and for a few only, all went well. The snow was in good order on -the ridge, but we had to leave this almost immediately and make S.W. in -order to skirt the heights which still intervened between us and our -peak. The ice began to change its character. Two or three steps were cut -with a few strokes of the axe, and then all went well again for a time. -Then more steps, and a more ringing sound as the axe fell. We seemed, -too, however we might press on, to make no impression on this first -slope. Our doubt returned; the leader paused, drew up the rope, and bit -at a fragment of ice as he gazed anxiously upwards over the face. No! we -were on the right track, and must stick to it if we would succeed. For -an hour and a quarter we kept at it in silence, save for the constant -ringing blows of the axe. Our courage gradually oozed out, for when we -had worked back to the ridge again, we seemed to have made no progress -at all. The top of the mountain far above was already swathed in cloud, -and a distant storm on the south side was only too obvious. Another -little peak was won before we looked about again, but the summit seemed -no nearer. The exertion had begun to tell and the pace became slower. -Some one remarked that he felt hungry, and we all thereupon realised our -empty state, so we fortified ourselves for further efforts on a dainty -repast of steinbock, black bread a week old, and water--invigorating -victuals and exhilarating drink, rather appropriate to the treadmill -kind of exercise demanded. It is under conditions such as these that -strange diet tells on the climber; but even more trying and more -weakening than the poor quality of the food was the want of sleep from -which we had suffered for a good many nights. In the language of -science, our vital force and nervous energy were becoming rather rapidly -exhausted, or, to put it more colloquially and briefly, we were awfully -done. Three hours more at least was the estimate, and meanwhile the -weather was growing worse and worse. Reflecting that all points fall to -him who knows how to wait and stick to it, we pressed on harder to -escape from the dispiriting thoughts that suggested themselves, and -almost of a sudden recognised that the last of the deceptive little tops -had been left behind us, and that we were fighting our way up the final -peak. Better still, Tetnuld, which for so long had seemed to tower above -us, was fast sinking in importance, and there really seemed now, as we -measured the peak with the clinometer between the intervals of -step-cutting, to be little difference between the two points. The air -was so warm and oppressive that we were able to dispense with gloves. -One of the guides suffered from intense headache, but the rest of us, I -fancy, felt only in much the same condition as a man does at the finish -of a hard-run mile race. The clouds parted above us for a while, -mysteriously, as it seemed, for there was no wind to move them; but we -could only see the slope stretching upwards, and still upwards. Yet we -could not be far off now. Again we halted for a few seconds, and as we -glanced above, we mentally took stock of our strength, for there was no -question the pleasure had been laborious. Some one moved, and we were -all ready on the instant. To it once more, and to the very last victory -was doubtful. True, the summit had seemed close enough when the last -break in the swirling clouds had enabled us to catch a glimpse of what -still towered above; but our experience of Swiss snow mountains was -long enough to make us sceptical as to apparent tops, and possibly the -Caucasian giants were as prone to deceive as the human pigmies that -crawled and burrowed at their bases. - -"Still anxious, still questioning success, we stepped on, and the pace -increased as the doubt persisted. It is often said to be impossible, by -those who don't try, to explain why the second ascent of a mountain -always appears so much easier than the first; some explanation may be -found in the fact that on a virgin peak the uncertainty is really -increasing during the whole time, and the climax comes in the last few -seconds. Every step upwards make success more probable, and at the same -time, would make failure more disappointing. In fact, the only periods -when we are morally certain of success on a new expedition are before -the start and when victory is actually won. Still, we could hardly -believe that any insuperable obstacle would now turn us back; yet all -was new and uncertain, and the conditions of weather intensified the -anxiety. The heavy stillness of the air seemed unnatural, and made the -mind work quicker. The sensibility became so acute that if we ceased -working and moving for a moment the silence around was unendurable, and -seemed to seize hold of us. A distant roll of thunder came almost as a -relief. A step or two had to be cut, and the delay appeared -interminable. Suddenly, a glimpse of a dark patch of rocks appeared -above looming through the mist. The slope of the ridge became more -gentle for a few yards. Our attention was all fixed above, and we -ascended some distance without noticing the change. Another short rise, -and we were walking quickly along the ridge. We stopped suddenly; the -rocks we had seen so recently, had sunk below us on our left, while in -front the _arete_ could be followed with the eye, sloping away gradually -for a few yards, and then plunging sharply down to a great depth. It was -all over; through fair weather and through foul we had succeeded; and -there was yet another peak to the credit of the Alpine Club. - -[Illustration: A TYPICAL CAUCASIAN LANDSCAPE. - -_To face_ p. 105. - -By Signor Vittorio Sella.] - -"It was not a time for words. Burgener turned to us and touched the snow -with his hand, and we sat down in silence. Almost on the instant as we -took our places a great burst of thunder rolled and echoed around--a -grim salvo of Nature's artillery. The sudden sense of rest heightened -the effect of the oppressive stillness that followed. Never have I felt -the sense of isolation so complete. Gazing in front into the thin mists, -the very presence of my companions seemed an unreality. The veil of -wreathing vapour screened the huge panorama of the ice-world from our -sight. The black thunderclouds drifting sullenly shut out the world -below. No man knew where we were; we had reached our furthest point -in a strange land. We were alone with Nature, far from home, and far -from all that we were familiar with. Strange emotions thrilled the frame -and quickened the pulse. Weird thoughts crowded through the mind--it was -not a time for words. Believe me, under such conditions a man will see -further across the threshold of the unknown than all the book-reading or -psychological speculation in the world will ever reveal to him. - -"Coming back to considerations more prosaic and practical, we found that -it was 1.15 P.M. We realised, too, that the ascent had been very -laborious and exhausting, while there was no doubt that evil times were -in store for us. There were no rocks at hand to build a cairn, but we -reflected that the snow was soft, and that our footsteps would easily be -seen on the morrow. The aneroid marked the height we had attained as -16,550 feet.[4] A momentary break in the mist gave us a view of Dych -Tau, and we had just time to get a compass observation. After a stay of -fifteen minutes we rose and girded ourselves for the descent. I think we -all felt that the chief difficulty was yet to come, but we had little -idea of what was actually to follow. Directly after we had left the -summit a few puffs of wind began to play around and some light snow -fell. Still, it was not very cold, and if the storm would only keep its -distance all might be well. Down the first slope we made our way rapidly -enough, and could have gone faster had we not deemed it wise to husband -our strength as much as possible. In an hour and twenty minutes we -reached the place where we had left the provisions and the camera. The -feast was spread, but did not find favour. Never did food look so -revolting. The bread seemed to have turned absolutely black, while the -steinbock meat looked unfit to keep company with garbage in a gutter; so -we packed it up again at once, more from a desire to hide it from our -eyes than from any idea that it might look more appetising later on. -Andenmatten's headache had become much worse, and he could scarcely at -starting stand steady in his steps. Possibly his suffering was due to an -hour or two of intensely hot sun, which had struck straight down on us -during the ascent. I could not at the moment awaken much professional -interest in his case, but the symptoms, so far as I could judge, were -more like those experienced by people in diving-bells--were pressure -effects in short--for the pain was chiefly in the skull cavities. I may -not here enter into technical details, and can only remark now that -though Andenmatten suffered the most it by no means followed on that -account that his head was emptier than anybody else's. In due course we -came to the ice-slope up and across which we had cut our way so -laboriously in the morning; here, at least, we thought we should make -good progress with little trouble; but the sun had struck full on this -part of the mountain, and all the steps were flattened out and useless. -Every single step ought to have been worked at with as much labour as in -the morning, but it was impossible to do more than just scratch out a -slight foothold, as we made our way round again to the ridge. Below, on -the west side, the slope plunged down into the Ewigkeit, and our very -best attention had to be given in order to avoid doing the same. It was -one of the worst snow faces I ever found myself on, perhaps, under the -conditions, the worst. The direction in which we were travelling and the -angle of the slope made the rope utterly useless. Close attention is -very exhausting: much more exertion is required to walk ten steps, -bestowing the utmost possible care on each movement, than to walk a -hundred up or down a much steeper incline when the angle demands a more -accustomed balance. Not for an instant might we relax our vigilance -till, at 5.30 P.M., we reached once more the ridge close to the place -where we had forced our way through the cornice in the morning. - -"We had little time to spare, and hurrying up to the point, looked -anxiously down the snow wall. A glance was sufficient to show that the -whole aspect of the snow had entirely altered since the morning. -Burgener's expression changed suddenly, and a startled exclamation, -which I trust was allowed to pass unrecorded, escaped from him. -Andenmatten brought up some stones and rolled them down over the edge; -each missile carried down a broad hissing band of the encrusting snow -which had given us foot-hold in the morning, and swept the ice-slope -beneath as black and bare as a frozen pond; here and there near rocks -the stones stopped and sank deeply and gently into the soft, treacherous -compound. The light had begun to fail, and snow was falling more heavily -as we pressed on to try for some other line of descent. A hundred yards -further along the ridge we looked over again; the condition of the snow -was almost the same, but the wall was steeper, and looked at its very -worst as seen through the mist. Some one now suggested that we might -work to the north-west end of the ridge and make our way down to the -pass by the ice-fall. We tramped on as hard as possible, only to find at -the end of our journey that the whole mass seemed abruptly cut away far -above the Adine Col, and no line of descent whatever was visible. We -doubled back on our tracks till we came within a few yards of the summit -of a small peak on the ridge, the height of which was probably not less -than 15,000 feet. Already the cold was numbing and our wet clothes began -to stiffen; again we peered over the wall, but the rocks were glazed, -snow-covered, and impossible. The leader stopped, looked right and left -along the ridge, and said, 'I don't know what to do!' For the moment we -seemed hopelessly entrapped; the only conceivable place of shelter for -the night was a patch of rocks close to the summit of the peak near at -hand, and for these we made. It was an utter waste of time. Apart from -sleeping, we could not have remained there an hour, for we met the full -force of the wind, which by this time had risen considerably, and was -whirling the driving snow into every crack and cranny. What might have -begun as a temporary rest would infallibly have ended in a permanent -occupation. Indeed, the cold would have been far too intense that night -for us to have lived on any part of the bleak ridge. The situation was -becoming desperate. 'We must get down off the ridge and out of the -wind.' 'Ay,' said Burgener, 'we must, I know; but where?' The -circumstances did not call for reasonable answers, and so we said, -'Anywhere! To stay up here now means that we shall never get down at -all.' Burgener looked up quickly as if to say no, but hesitated, and -then muttered, 'That is true. Then what will you do? There is no way -down anywhere along the wall with the snow as it is now. There are great -ice-slopes a little way down.' As he spoke he leant over and looked -along the wall for confirmation of his opinions. A little way off a rib -of rock, blacker than the rest, showed through the mist. We both saw it -at the same time; Burgener hesitated, looked at it again, and then -facing round glanced at the prospect above. The wind was stronger and -colder and the snow was driving more heavily. There was no room for -doubt. We must put it to the touch and take the risk. We turned again, -and in a few minutes had squeezed ourselves through the cornice, and -were fairly launched on the descent. - -"We were now at a much higher level on the ridge than at the point we -had struck in ascending. It was only possible to see a few yards down; -the rocks looked appallingly steep, glazed, and grizzly, and we knew not -what we were coming to. But at any rate we were moving, and in a stiller -atmosphere soon forgot the cold. We went fast, but only by means of -doing all we knew, for the climbing was really difficult. It was a case -of every man for himself, and every man for the rest of the party. Now -was the time to utilise all that we had ever learned of mountain craft. -Never before, speaking for myself only, have I felt so keenly the -pleasure of being united to thoroughly trustworthy and good -mountaineers; it was like the rush of an eight-oar, where the sense of -motion and the swish through the water alone are sufficient to make -every member of the crew put all his strength into each stroke. The mind -was too active to appreciate the pain of fatigue, and so we seemed -strong again. Now on the rocks, which were loose and crumbly in parts, -elsewhere big and glazed, now in deep snow, now on hard crusts, we -fought our way down. So rapid was the descent that, when the opportunity -offered, we looked anxiously through the mist in the hope of seeing the -glacier beneath. Surely we had hit on a possible line of descent to the -very bottom. But there was not a moment for the grateful repose so often -engendered by enquiring minds on the mountains. We were racing against -time, or at least against the malevolent powers of darkness. Down a -narrow flat couloir of rock of no slight difficulty we seemed to go with -perfect ease, but the rocks suddenly ceased and gave way to an -ill-favoured snow-slope. The leader stopped abruptly and turned sharp to -the right. A smooth ice-gully some 30 feet wide separated us from the -next ridge of rock. The reason for the change of direction was evident -enough when Burgener pointed it out. As long as the line of descent kept -to the side that was more sheltered during the day from the sun, so -long was the snow fairly good. Our leader judged quickly, and with the -soundest reasoning, as it proved directly afterwards, that the line we -had been following would infallibly lead, if pursued further, to snow as -treacherous as that with which we were now so familiar. Across the -ice-slope then we must cut, perhaps a dozen or fifteen steps. - -"The first two or three Burgener made vigorously enough, but when within -10 or 15 feet of the rocks the extra effort told. He faltered suddenly; -his blow fell listlessly, and he leant against the slope, resting hands -and head on his axe. 'I am almost exhausted,' he said faintly, as he -turned round to us, while his quivering hands and white lips bore -evidence to the severity of the exertion. So for a minute or two we -stood in our tracks. A word of encouragement called up what seemed -almost a last effort, some little notches were cut, and we gained the -rocks again. A trickling stream of water was coursing down a slab of -rock, and at this we gulped as eagerly as a fevered patient. Standing on -the projecting buttress, we looked anxiously down, and caught sight at -last of the glacier. It seemed close to us; the first few steps showed -that Burgener's judgment was right; he had changed the line of descent -at exactly the right moment, and at the best possible place. Down the -last few hundred feet we were able to go as fast as before. The level -glacier beneath seemed in the darkness to rise up suddenly and meet us. -We tumbled over the _bergschrund_, ran down a short slope on the farther -side of it, and stood in safety on the glacier, saved by as fine a piece -of guiding as I have ever seen in the mountains. We looked up at the -slope. To our astonishment all was clear, and I daresay had been so for -long. Above, in a blue-black frosty sky, the stars were winking merrily; -the mists had all vanished as by magic. No doubt the cold, which would -have settled us had we stayed on the ridge, assisted us materially in -the descent by improving the snow. - -"There seemed still just light enough to search for our tracks of the -morning across the glacier, and we bore well to the right in the hope of -crossing them. I fancy that the marks would have been really of little -use, but, anyhow, we could not find them, and so made a wide sweep -across the upper part of the snow basin. As a result we were soon in -difficulty with the crevasses, and often enough it seemed probable that -we should spend the rest of the night in wandering up and down searching -for snow bridges. But we reached at last a patch of shale and rock, -which we took to be the right bank of the little glacier we had crossed -in the morning. Our clothes were wet, and the cold was becoming so sharp -that it was wisely decided, against my advice, to push on if possible -to the tent at once. For some three or four hours did we blunder and -stumble over the moraine, experiencing not a few tolerably severe falls -as we did so. Andenmatten selected his own line of descent, and in a few -minutes we had entirely lost sight of him. It was too dark to find our -way across the glacier, and we could only hope by following the loose -stone ridge to make our way to the right place. So we stuck to the -rocks, occasionally falling and nearly sticking on their detestably -sharp points. Even a Caucasian moraine leads somewhere if you keep to it -long enough, and as we turned a corner, the huge glimmering mass of Dych -Tau, towering up in front, showed that the end of our journey was not -far off. Presently the little white outline of the tent appeared, but we -regarded it with apathy, and made no effort to quicken our movements, -although the goal was in sight; it seemed to require, in our -semi-comatose condition, almost an effort to stop. As we threw open the -door of the tent the welcome sight of divers packets, neatly arranged in -a corner, met our gaze. The head policeman had proved himself an honour -to his sex, an exception to his compatriots, and a credit to the force. -There were bread, sugar, rice, meat, and firewood--yet we neither spoke -nor were moved. Andenmatten spurned the parcels with his foot and -revealed the lowermost. A scream of delight went up, for they had found -a packet of tobacco. The spell was broken, and once more all were -radiant. Such is man. A strange compound--I refer to the tobacco--it -proved to be, that would neither light nor smoke, and possessed as its -sole property the power of violently disagreeing with the men. It was -past midnight before the expedition was over. There were few -preliminaries observed before going to bed. I don't think that even -Donkin took more than a quarter of an hour in arranging a couch to his -satisfaction, and placing a very diminutive air-cushion on anatomical -principles in exactly the right place, while Andenmatten was fast asleep -in two minutes, his head pillowed gently on some cold mutton, and his -boots reposing under the small of his back. Something weighed on our -minds as we too lay down and tried to sleep. The towering cone of -Tetnuld, the distant view of Uschba, Elbruz, and the giant Dych Tau, the -rock and snow-slopes, pictured themselves one after another as -dissolving views on the white walls of the tent. The expedition was -over, but the pleasure and the impressions it had evoked were not. -Faster and faster followed the visions as in delirium. I sat up, and in -the excitement of the moment dealt a great blow at the nearest object, -which, as it chanced, was Andenmatten's ribs. I shouted out to my -companion. A muffled 'hulloa' was the response, and he too rose up. -'What is it?' 'By Heavens! it is the finest climb we have ever made.' -And so it was." - - - - -CHAPTER VII - -A MELANCHOLY QUEST - - -The accident in the Caucasus in 1888, by which Messrs Donkin and Fox and -their two Swiss guides lost their lives, was one of the saddest that has -ever happened in the annals of mountaineering. I will not dwell on it, -but will rather pass on to the search expedition, a short account of -whose operations will serve to illustrate how a thorough knowledge of -mountaineering may be utilised in finding a conjectured spot in an -unmapped region in the snow world. - -The year after the accident--for the season when it occurred was too -advanced for a thorough search to be then undertaken--a party of four -Englishmen, Messrs Douglas Freshfield, Clinton Dent, Hermann Woolley, -and Captain Powell, with Maurer of the Bernese Oberland as leading -guide, set out from England to try and ascertain how the accident -happened, and, if possible, recover the remains. They succeeded, in the -course of a profoundly interesting journey, in finding the last camp of -their friends, and from Mr Clinton Dent's fine description in _The -Alpine Journal_ I make, with his kind consent, the following extracts. -They show how well the old school of climbers learnt all the routine of -their art, and how superior is the trained mountaineer of any -nationality to the inexperienced dweller amongst mountains, who is -utterly unable to advance a single step upon them. - -Having journeyed to the district and got over all the easier ground at -first met with, the party was now fairly embarked in the region of ice -and snow. - -"The day was well advanced," writes Mr Dent, "and it is only on rare -occasions in the Central Caucasus that the valleys and sky are free from -cloud at such an hour. But not a vestige of mist was to be seen. The -conditions were not merely of good omen, but were also in the hightest -degree fortunate, for the object of our search seemed very minute in the -presence of such gigantic surroundings. The air was clear and soft, and -the snow in perfect order for walking. We worked our way due west, and -gradually, as we turned the buttress of rock, a steep and broad -ice-gully came into view, leading up to the pass. This consisted of a -broad snow-topped depression, from 1500 to 1800 feet above the -snow-field. On the right or east of the pass the ridge ran sharply up to -the pinnacle already mentioned, while on the left the ridge, broken up -on its crest by great towers of rock, stretched away to the summit of -Dych Tau, the peak of which from our point of view was not visible. A -careful inspection of the rocks with the telescope revealed nothing. A -possible place for a bivouac might have been found at any point on the -rocks below the pass, but no particularly likely spot was evident. It -was conceivable too, of course, that the travellers had discovered a -more suitable place on the Ullu Auz side, close to the summit of the -pass. In any case our plan of action was clear, and we set forth without -delay to ascend the wall. Two long ribs of rock lying on the right of -the ice-gully offered the best means of access. Both looked feasible, -but it was only after a moment's hesitation that the left-hand one was -selected, as it seemed more broken, was broader, and ran up higher. If -the right-hand rib had been chosen, we might conceivably have missed the -object of our search altogether. We made our way up the rocks without -any great difficulty. Half-melted masses of snow constantly hissed down -the ice-gully as we ascended, and the great chasm that extends along the -base of the cliff was choked for the most part with avalanche snow. The -rocks were steep, but so broken as to offer good hand-and foot-hold. -Still, the mind was sufficiently occupied in attending to the details of -climbing to prevent the thoughts from wandering. Insensibly, we began -to think little save of the view that would be revealed from the top of -the pass. From time to time an opportunity would be found of gazing to -the right or left, but progress was tolerably continuous. Maurer, who -was leading, looked upwards now and again, as he worked out the best -line of ascent, but the rocks were so steep that he could only see a -very few feet. Just about mid-day, as he stopped for a moment to look -upwards, I saw his expression suddenly change. 'Herr Gott!' he gasped -out, 'der Schlafplatz!'[5] I think I shall never forget the thrill the -words sent through me. We sprang up, scrambling over the few feet that -still intervened, and in a moment were grouped on a little ledge just -outside the bivouac. There was little enough to be seen at the first -glance save a low horse-shoe shaped wall of stones, measuring some 6 -feet by 8, and carefully built against an overhanging rock. The -enclosure was full of drifted snow, raised up into a hump at the back, -where it covered a large ruecksack. On a ledge formed by one of the -stones, a little tin snow spectacle-box caught the eye as it reflected -the rays of the sun. For a few moments all was excitement as the -presence of one object after another was revealed. 'See here,' cried -Maurer, as he scooped away the snow with his hands, 'the sleeping-bags!' -'And here a ruecksack,' said another. 'Look, they made a fire there,' -called out a third, 'and here is the cooking kettle and the revolver.' -Then came somewhat of a reaction, and for a few minutes we could but -gaze silently at the place that told so clear a tale, and endeavour to -realise to the full the evidence that had come upon us with such -overwhelming suddenness. - - * * * * * - -"It is most probable that the accident occurred on the south side of the -cliffs forming the eastern ridge of Dych Tau. The party must have been -roped at the moment, and it is very reasonable to suppose that they were -engaged in traversing one of the many ice and snow covered slopes that -exist on this side. What the exact nature of the accident was matters -little; but it may be remembered that the snow on such slopes and ledges -often binds very lightly, and that there are no mountains, perhaps, -where these places are more numerous or more treacherous than in the -Caucasus. It was possibly one of those rare instances in which the rope -was a source of danger and not of security to the party as a whole. Yet -the rule is clear, and it amounts to this: if a place is too dangerous -to cross with a party roped, lest the slip of one drag down all, then it -is too dangerous to cross at all. So steep are the cliffs that a fall -must have meant instantaneous death. As an example, a torn sleeping-bag -which was thrown over the bivouac wall fell to the very bottom of the -slope, and we saw it just above the _bergschrund_ as we descended. It -was necessary to take down some of the articles discovered, for we might -otherwise have found difficulty in convincing the natives of the success -of the expedition, and this was an important point. The height of the -pass is 14,350 feet, and of the bivouac about 14,000 feet. We left the -bivouac at 3.30 P.M., the day being still perfectly cloudless. The -ice-fall offered some little difficulty, one or two of the bridges by -which we had crossed in the morning having broken down. Still we were -able to keep to almost the same line as that adopted in ascending. - - * * * * * - -"No one familiar with the Caucasus would be willing to believe that any -native could have reached the bivouac. The people are still very -timorous on ice, and are wholly incapable of facing an ice-fall, much -less of making any way through one. No native could have been got to the -place even if in the train of competent mountaineers; alone, he would -not have set foot on the glacier at all. - -"A day or two later we made our way down to the collection of villages -known as Balkar, a good three and a half hours' walk from Karaoul. The -place is not well spoken of, but we were hospitably received and -entertained. In this, as in many other villages subsequently, the story -of our search excited much interest. On every occasion the proceedings -were almost exactly identical. As usual in the Caucasus, the natives all -crowded into our apartment soon after arrival. Powell would then select -some Russian-speaking man in authority, and announce through him that -the results of our expedition would be made known to all who cared to -hear them. The whole story was then told, and admirably Powell used to -narrate it, winding up by pointing out how the people of the district -were now exonerated from any suspicion that may have lain on them. Such -suspicion, he used to add, had never been entertained by any English -people. The account was always listened to in breathless silence. At the -conclusion it was repeated by the chief to the natives in their own -language. Then the ruecksack was brought in and the articles found shown. -These were always instantly accepted as absolute proof; the rusty -revolver especially excited attention. Expressions of sorrow and brief -interjections were always heard on all sides. Then the chief spoke to -some such effect as follows: 'We are indeed rejoiced that you have found -these traces. It relieves our people from an irksome and unjust -suspicion. It is well that Englishmen came to our country for this -search, for we believe that no others could have accomplished what you -have done. We are all very grateful to you. Englishmen are always most -welcome in our country. We are glad to receive them. Our houses are -theirs, and the best we can do shall always be done for your -countrymen.' In several places--at Chegem, for instance--words were -added to this effect: 'We remember well Donkin and Fox; they were brave -and good men, and we loved them. It is very sad to us to think that they -are lost.'" - -A more detailed account of this melancholy quest will be found in Messrs -Douglas Freshfield's and Vittorio Sella's work, _The Exploration of the -Caucasus_. It is from this, the most beautifully illustrated of any book -on mountaineering, that, with Mr Freshfield's kind permission and that -of Mr Willink, I take the picture of the sleeping-place. The finished -drawing was made by Mr Willink from a sketch by Captain Powell. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII - -SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND FATAL ACCIDENTS - - -Probably not half the narrow escapes experienced by climbers are ever -described, even in the pages of the various publications of English and -foreign Alpine Clubs, though when an accident by the breaking of a -snow-cornice is just avoided, the incident is so terribly impressive -that several accounts have found their way into print. Scarcely anything -more startling than a certain occurrence on a ridge of the Moench, which -happened to the late Mr Moore and his two guides, Melchior and Jacob -Anderegg, has ever been related. The party had succeeded in making the -ascent of the Moench from the Wengern Alp, it being only the third -occasion when this long and difficult climb was accomplished, each of -their predecessors spending _three days and three nights_ on the -expedition. - -[Illustration: MELCHIOR ANDEREGG, OF MEIRINGEN.] - -[Illustration: A SON AND A GRANDCHILD OF MELCHIOR ANDEREGG, 1903. - -_To face_ p. 124.] - -Having gained the summit, the party proceeded to go down by the usual -route towards the Trugberg. This follows a very narrow _arete_. "On the -left hand," says Mr Moore in _The Alpine Journal_, "is an absolute -precipice; on the right a slope, which might be called precipitous, -falls to the Aletsch Glacier. The quantity of snow on the ridge was -enormous, and the sun had begun to tell upon it. We knew too much to -attempt to approach the upper edge, and kept at a distance of some 12 -feet below it on the Aletsch side; lower down we dared not go, owing to -the steepness of the slope and the danger of starting an avalanche. With -Melchior in front it is unnecessary to say that we moved with the -greatest caution. No man is more alive than he to the danger arising -from a snow-cornice. He sounded with his axe at every step, and we went -steadily along, anxious, but with every reason to believe that we were -giving the cornice a wide berth. Suddenly came a startling cry from -Melchior. At the same instant I felt myself stagger, and, instinctively -swinging ever so slightly to the right, found myself the next moment -sitting astride on the ridge. With a thundering roar the cornice on our -left for a distance of some 200 yards went crashing down to the depths -below, sending up clouds of snow-dust which completely concealed my -companions from me. It was only by the absence of all strain on the rope -that I knew--though at the moment I scarcely realised the fact--that -they were, like myself, safe. As the dust cleared off, Melchior, also -sitting astride of the ridge, turned towards me, his face white as the -snow which covered us. That it was no personal fear which had blanched -our leader's sunburnt cheeks his first words, when he could find -utterance, showed. 'God be thanked!' said he; 'I never thought to see -either of you there.' We had, in fact, escaped destruction by a -hand's-breadth. As I believe, our right feet had been on the ridge, our -left on the cornice; we had thus just sufficient firm standing-ground to -enable us to make that instinctive movement to the right which had -landed us _a cheval_, for Jacob had fallen in the same position as -Melchior and myself. Few words were said; but words poorly express the -emotions at such a moment. Melchior's axe had been carried down with the -cornice as it fell, but had fortunately lodged on the face of the -precipice 50 feet below. It was too precious to leave behind, so we let -him down by the rope, and descending in a cat-like way peculiar to -first-class guides when not hampered by _Herrshaft_, he regained it -without difficulty. - -"Our further descent was uneventful." - -One of the greatest dangers of mountaineering is from falling stones, -yet the number of fatal accidents from this cause is as few as the -narrow escapes are many. As exciting an experience as can well be -imagined took place on the Aiguille du Midi at Chamonix in 1871. The -party consisted of Messrs Horace Walker and G. E. Foster. The latter -wrote a graphic account in _The Alpine Journal_, and kindly allows me -to make the following extracts. The guides were Jacob Anderegg and Hans -Baumann, and the climbers wished to ascend from the Montanvert and be -the first to go down the steep face of the mountain on the Chamonix -side. - -After some difficulty in finding the route, for both the guides were -unacquainted with the district, and Mr Walker alone knew in a vague sort -of way that the peak was somewhere in the neighbourhood of the Geant -ice-fall, they eventually stood on the top. It had taken them ten hours, -and they sat for some time on the more sheltered Chamonix side, debating -by what route they should descend. The slopes below were very steep, so -they decided to retrace their steps to the foot of the rocks, and then, -turning over on to the Chamonix side of the mountain, make their way as -best they could down ice-filled gullies and precipitous rocks. All at -first went well, and soon they commenced to cross the face of the cliff -to gain a rocky buttress that offered a likely route some hundred feet -below the top of the wall. "Jacob was leading," writes Mr Foster, -"Walker next, I followed, and Baumann brought up the rear. Only one was -moving at a time, and every one had the rope as taut as possible between -himself and his neighbour. Jacob was crossing a narrow gully, when -suddenly, without any warning, as though he had trod on the keystone of -the wall, the whole face for some 30 or 40 feet above him peeled off, -and with a crash like thunder, hundreds of tons of rocks precipitated -themselves on him. In an instant he was torn from his hold, and hurled -down the precipice with them. Fortunately, Walker was able to hold on, -though the strain on him was something awful. As the uproar ceased, and -silence even more impressive succeeded, we looked in one another's faces -with blank dismay. From our position it was impossible to see what had -become of Jacob, and only the tight rope told us that his body at least, -living or dead, was still fastened to us. In a voice singularly unlike -his own, Walker at length cried out, 'Jacob,' and our hearts sank within -us as it passed without response. 'Jacob! Ach Jacob!' Walker repeated; -and I trust none of my readers may ever know the relief we felt when the -reply came back, 'Ich lebe noch.'[6] - -"From where I was I could not see him, but Walker craned over a rock, -and then turned round. 'I see him. He is awfully hurt, and bleeding -frightfully.' I then contrived to shift my position, and saw that he was -indeed hurt. His face was black with blood and dirt, the skin torn from -his bleeding hands, while his clothes in ribands threatened worse -injuries still unseen. After a moment, he managed to recover his -footing, and then untied the rope with trembling fingers, and crawled -along the face of the cliff to the other side of the gully, where some -snow offered means to stanch his wounds. - -"As soon as he was safe, Baumann called on us to stand still, and -clambered carefully over the spot where the rocks had given way, our -only road lying there. I followed, and then Walker, knotting up the rope -to which Jacob had hung, crossed last. With Jacob below us, care was -necessary in climbing so as to send no more loose fragments on his head, -but we at last reached the spot where he was standing. Thanks to the -snow, the bleeding had already stopped to a great extent, and with the -aid of some sticking-plaster Walker had with him, and some torn strips -from a pocket-handkerchief, we bound up his wounds as well as we could. -He had had a marvellous escape; no fragment had struck him fully, the -rock that had grazed his face having missed knocking out his brains from -his presence of mind in throwing back his head. Fortunately, no bones -were broken, though he was badly bruised all over, and after a quarter -of an hour's rest and a good pull at the brandy-flask, he said he was -ready to start again. - -"On taking hold of the rope to tie him on again, we were awestruck to -find all its strands but one had been severed, so that his whole weight -had hung literally on a thread. Strange as it may appear, the rock that -had done this had probably saved his life by jerking him out of the line -of fire. Still, all honour to Messrs Buckingham for their good -workmanship, to which, and Walker's holding powers, we owe our escape -from a miserable ending of our day's work. As it was, poor Walker's ribs -had suffered sadly, and with two wounded men we recommenced our descent. - -"Naturally, our trust in the rocks was gone, and we took as soon as -possible to the steep snow of the couloir. This, however, lay so thin on -the ice, that we found we had only exchanged one danger for another. -Baumann led and we followed, driving in our axe-heads at every step, but -were soon forced to descend into a narrow gully, cut by avalanches, -where the snow was deep enough to give better footing. The sides of this -were above our heads, and the bottom not more than a foot wide, so that -the danger from avalanches was very great, but for a time we descended -safely. Then a startled shout from Walker warned me that something was -wrong, and driving my axe desperately into the side, I found myself up -to the neck in a snow avalanche. For a moment I thought all was up, but -held on to the best of my powers. Then finding the stream did not stop, -I looked back, and found Walker and Jacob had contrived to get out of -the gully. With a shout to Baumann, I gave a desperate struggle, and -followed their example, and instantly saw the snow I had held up surge -over Baumann's head. For a moment he held on, then climbed out on my -side. We waited till the avalanche had passed, two of us on one side of -the gully and two on the other, and then Walker and Jacob jumped into it -with a groan, as it shook their bruised bones, and climbed up to our -side, and with an occasional look for Baumann's hat, which the avalanche -had carried off with it, pursued our way. - -"So long and steep was the couloir, so thin and treacherous the snow -layer on the ice, that a good hour elapsed before we reached the bottom, -where a formidable _bergschrund_ cut off access to the glacier. Only at -one point could we find a bridge, and that was where our old enemy, the -avalanche gully, terminated, choking the crevasse with its snows, and -spreading in a fan-like mass below. With some hesitation, as our -recollection of it was not pleasant, and it was here all hard ice, -Baumann cut his way down into it. We were scarcely all fairly in it, -when we heard a tremendous crash above. Clearly, another avalanche was -descending, this time composed of rocks. As it was 2000 feet above us, -and would take some time to clear the distance, a short race for life -ensued. Baumann cut steps with amazing rapidity. Fortunately, some half -dozen only were necessary. With one eye on him and one keeping a sharp -look-out for the advent of the unwelcome stranger, we hastened down, -crossed the bridge, scampered down a slope, and merely stooping down to -pick up Baumann's hat, which turned up here, got out of the way just in -time, as an enormous mass of snow and rocks dashed over where we had -stood not a minute before." - -This was the last adventure the party had that day from avalanches, but -their troubles were as yet by no means over. Some formidable glacier -work had to be accomplished before all was plain sailing. "Though we -were now tolerably reckless, the difficulties in our way nearly beat -us," Mr Foster goes on to say. "Three times we tried, and thrice in -vain, though knife edges of the most revolting description were passed, -and crevasses of fabulous width and depth jumped or got over as seemed -best. Again and again we were forced to return. At length, when we were -almost in despair, a way was found, and at 6.30, drenched by the storm -which by this time had burst upon us, we reached the little hotel at the -Pierrepointue." - -There are no climbing dangers which skill and care can more surely avert -than those which are ever present on a crevassed, but snow-covered -glacier. - -[Illustration: CREVASSES AND SERACS ON THE LOWER PART OF A GLACIER.] - -[Illustration: A SNOW BRIDGE OVER A CREVASSE.] - -[Illustration: ON THE BORDER OF A CREVASSE ABOVE THE SNOW LINE.] - -[Illustration: SOFT SNOW IN THE AFTERNOON ON A GLACIER. - -By Signor R. Cajrati Crivelli Mesmer. - -_To face_ p. 133.] - -Should a party fail to arrest the fall of one of its members, and have -difficulty in pulling him above ground, however, the position may -become most serious. If another party is within hail, matters are -generally simple enough, yet even for four or five people it is not -always the easiest thing in the world to haul up a companion who has -disappeared into the bowels of the earth, especially if the folly of -walking unroped has been indulged in. - -A good description of what might have been a serious business but for -the skill and resource of a member of the party is given in the course -of a description of some climbs in the Rocky Mountains. The writer, Mr -Harold B. Dixon, says in _The Alpine Journal_: "A snow-covered crevasse -crossed our route at right angles. The party in front, who were without -ropes, saw the crevasse, and proceeded to leap it. All crossed in safety -but the last man, who broke through the snow and disappeared. Through -the hole the wide mouth of the crevasse was revealed, showing the danger -of trusting to the frail bridge. It was obviously dangerous to recross -without a rope, so his companions signalled to us for help, but for some -time we failed to observe their signals. - -"Though stunned by the fall our friend was not materially damaged, but -he was in a sufficiently awkward fix. Jammed between the narrowing walls -of ice, he was unable to move a limb except his right arm. The crevasse -did not drop perpendicularly, but the ice-wall bulged out from the side -we stood on, and then curved over out of sight; we could not see down -more than 18 feet. We stood in a little semicircle at the hole, and one -short sentence was spoken: 'Some one must go down.' We looked at each -other. Sahrbach and Baker are large and heavy men: it was obvious they -must 'pass.' I am of lighter build; I proclaimed my 11 stone and -readiness to go. But Collie went better. 'I am 9 stone 6,' was his -deliberate statement. There was no means of seeing if this was a bluff, -so we threw up our hands--the trick was his. Tying a stirrup loop for -one foot and a noose round his waist, Collie attached himself to one -rope, which was then joined to a second. Meanwhile the Americans were -brought across the crevasse by the aid of another rope, and axes were -fixed deep in the snow in suitable positions to fasten the rope to. Then -we let Collie down as far as he would go. An anxious moment followed. 'I -can't reach him,' came Collie's voice from below. Then, after a few -minutes, 'Send down a slip knot on the other rope.' We made the knot and -lowered the rope. How Collie managed it I don't know, for he could not -reach his man, but he threw the loop round the prisoner's right arm, and -then called on us to pull. At the second haul we felt something give, -and our friend was pulled into an upright position, when Collie could -just reach him with his left hand, and with this he tied a knot above -the elbow of his right arm. By this knot we hauled him out of the narrow -crevasse and on to the bulge of ice without difficulty. But as we pulled -the rope cut into the snow, and we could not raise our burden within 6 -feet of the surface. Then, while the rope was held taut, one of us -worked the handle of an axe along under the rope by sitting on the snow -and pushing it forward with his feet. In this way the rope was loosened, -and we could haul up another 3 feet, and then Sahrbach, leaning over, -reached his collar, and our half-frozen friend was deposited on the snow -with an assortment of flasks, while we fished out Collie from his -uncomfortable position. They were both very wet and cold, but no bones -were broken." - -Here we see that even with a large party of competent people, it was no -easy matter to rescue a comrade from his icy prison. The details are -well given, and may be useful to any one so unfortunate as to require by -personal experience a knowledge of what should be done under similar -circumstances. - -The danger of crossing snow-covered glaciers when the party does not -number more than two was brought home to those who heard of it by one of -the most tragical events which has ever been recorded in the annals of -mountaineering. A German, Dr Schaeffer, had been celebrating his golden -wedding at a small place on the Brenner on 22nd August 1900. He engaged -a guide, by name Johann Offerer, and, sleeping at a hut, started early -next morning. They reached the Wildlahner Glacier in an hour and a half -from their sleeping quarters, and after traversing it for some distance -came to a large crevasse. This the guide crossed safely on a snow -bridge, but the tourist, a much heavier man, broke through, and pulled -his companion down with him. They fell about 100 feet, with the result -that the guide had a broken thigh and arm, while Dr Schaeffer only -bruised his knee. He put his coat round Offerer and left food beside -him, and then tried to get out of the crevasse. After hours of toil and -pain he managed to reach a ledge not very far below the mouth of the -crevasse, but further he could not get. At last he gave up all hope, and -sat down to die, first, however, writing a full account of the accident, -and leaving a sum of money for the widow of his guide. It is to this -pathetic last effort of his life that we owe our knowledge of what -happened. The only other instance at all like it is the terrible -accident on Mont Blanc in 1870, when eleven persons perished in a -snow-storm, one of their number, Mr Bean, leaving details in his diary -of the events immediately preceding the catastrophe. - -[Illustration: THE BETEMPS HUT.] - -[Illustration: SKI-ING.] - -[Illustration: HOW A BEGINNER USUALLY ENDS A RUN.] - -[Illustration: A GREAT CREVASSE IN THE UPPER SNOW FIELDS. - -_To face_ p. 137.] - -It was only on 5th September, after a long search, that the remains of -the two unfortunate men were discovered. - -The following is of special interest, because, of late years, the -Norwegian sport of ski-ing has become exceedingly popular in Alpine -winter resorts. It is impossible, however, owing to the great length of -the ski, to go in difficult places on them, and therefore mountaineers -have only used them when intending to ascend to points accessible -entirely over snow-slopes, not much broken up by crevasses. The first -fatal accident to a climbing party on ski took place in 1902, and may -serve as a warning to those intending to traverse glaciers in winter on -skis, or indeed even without them. I take my account from a translation -from the Italian, which appeared in _The Alpine Journal_. The comments -by the editor should be laid to heart. - -"A party of five gentlemen and four Zermatt guides left Zermatt on 24th -February for the Betemp Hut, with the intention of ascending the -Signalkuppe and the Zumstein, _via_ the Grenz Glacier and the Capanna -Margherita. - -"The 25th was spent in ski practice in the neighbourhood of the hut. On -the 26th the whole party, with the exception of one guide who had -brought a defective pair of skis, left the hut at 3.30 A.M. in weather -marked by no adverse conditions of any kind. The Grenz Glacier was -reached somewhat west of the point marked 3344 metres on the Siegfried -map. The party unroped, proceeded upwards on their skis towards the -point marked 3496 metres, the surface of the glacier, covered with deep -snow, showing no crevasses nor the indications of any. About midway -between 3300 metres and the point 3344 metres the caravan found itself -on a gentle slope, when a muffled crack was heard, and Herr Koenig, Herr -Flender, and one of the guides, Hermann Perren, were seen to sink almost -simultaneously into a concealed crevasse about 6 feet in width, which -ran in a direction parallel with the glacier, carrying with them a mass -of snow about 65 feet in length and over 14 feet in thickness. -Obviously, no amount of probing would have indicated the presence of the -crevasse, and thus by an unfortunate coincidence the three men were -standing at the same time over the hidden abyss without knowing it. One -of the other guides was instantly lowered into the crevasse by the only -available rope (the other being on Herr Flender's back), which proved to -be just too short to reach Hermann Perren, who had fallen about 90 feet, -and was standing upright against the side of the crevasse, held fast in -a mass of snow which had left his head and one arm free. Two of the -party hurried down to fetch another rope from the Betemps Hut. In the -meanwhile Perren had managed, after a struggle of two and a half hours, -almost to set himself free, and was eventually drawn out safely, -practically uninjured, save a slightly frost-bitten hand. The dead body -of Herr Flender, found with his neck broken, partially covered with some -2 feet of hard snow, was then extricated, but in spite of persistent -efforts the body of Herr Koenig was not recovered until the next day, -when he was found lying face downwards under a mass of compact snow over -10 feet thick. Death in his case was instantaneous, caused by -suffocation, the body bearing no signs whatever of external injury. Herr -Koenig was laid to rest in the English cemetery at Zermatt, while the -body of Herr Flender was conveyed by his relatives to its last -resting-place at Duesseldorf. This is, we think, the first fatal accident -which has occurred to a party of climbers on skis bound on a serious -climbing expedition. The party on this occasion cannot with justice be -accused of recklessness, for the apparent neglect of the usual -precaution of putting on the rope on a snow-covered glacier will not be -misunderstood by those accustomed to the use of skis, who will readily -understand that the rope is practically impossible, and even dangerous, -for a party on skis. - -"A remarkable feature of the accident was the thickness of the mass of -snow which gave way under the three men, and demonstrates the extreme -insecurity of winter snow on a crevassed glacier. It is possible that -the three men were perhaps too close to each other at the time of the -accident. - -"It is evident that winter climbers who wish to use skis must carry -their lives in their own hands, and perhaps the safer plan for future -expeditions of this kind will be to make the ascent roped in the usual -way on snow _racquettes_ carrying the skis on the back. On the descent -the risk of breaking through the snow covering during the rapid progress -on skis would of course be very much less than on the ascent." - -One of the most fruitful causes of accidents on mountains is the -underrating of difficulties by ignorant persons who, having been hauled -up and let down precipices by a couple of sturdy guides in fine weather, -proceed to inform their friends and acquaintances that "Nowadays the -Matterhorn is mere child's play, don't cher know." - -A sorry tale is told by the famous climber, Mr Cecil Slingsby, who, -himself accustomed to undertake the hardest climbs without guides, would -be the first to discourage imitation in any unfit to follow in his -steps. - -Writing of Skagastoeldstind, in Norway, of which he made the first -ascent, and which is still considered the most difficult of the -fashionable climbs in that country, he says in _The Alpine Journal_: - -"In 1880 a young tourist, son of a rich banker, whom I will call Nils, -desirous of emulating our exploits, attempted the mountain, and with the -assistance of two good climbers, who shoved and hauled him up the rocks, -succeeded in reaching the summit. Unfortunately, he afterwards wrote a -pamphlet of sixty-six pages about the mountain, in which he underrated -its difficulties. This pamphlet, I unhesitatingly assert, has been the -main cause of a terrible tragedy which took place on Skagastoeldstind. It -was in this manner. At one of the series of huts built by the tourist -club a young man, named Toensberg, who had been partially deranged, was -staying with his wife, and was deriving much benefit from the mountain -air. Here he read this pamphlet, and inferred that though -Skagastoeldstind was undoubtedly a very fine mountain, yet the -difficulties of its ascent had been much exaggerated, and that any one -might make it. Upon this he set off with a lad seventeen years of age, -at 9.30 P.M., in vile weather; walked through the night (in the middle -of summer it is never dark), and reached a saetor (or chalet) at 3 A.M.; -here they found Peter, one of Nils' guides, who refused to have anything -more to do with the mountain. At last, by means of bribes, and by -promising to turn back at once if the mountain should prove -impracticable, Peter was persuaded to go forward; and at 6 o'clock they -sallied out into the wet. Wind and snow soon assailed them, but -Toensberg would persist in his rash work. At 11 they reached the actual -base of the peak, 4100 feet below the top. The lad was frost-bitten and -could go no further; neither could Peter. They tried to tie the man with -ropes, but he was too strong for them, and used his alpenstock against -them, and it was no good. Soon afterwards he left them in the mist, and -in twenty strides was out of sight. A month or five weeks after this his -remains were found in a deep chasm between a glacier and the rocks, -amidst crags at least 2000 feet higher up on the mountain. I may add -that the valley Midt Maradal, out of which Skagastoeldstind rises, is so -difficult to approach, that though it contains rich pasturage at its -lower end--a mine of wealth in Norway--its owner, a man of forty-five -years, who has overlooked it hundreds of times and lives within three -miles of it as the crow flies, had never been in it when I saw him last, -and has asked me several times to guide him into it." - -Referring to an expedition from Mouvoison, which began, as do most -climbs, over grass slopes, Mr Clinton Dent remarks in _Above the Snow -Line_: - -"One ascent over a grass slope is very much like another, and -description in detail would be as wearisome as the slopes themselves -often prove. Yet it is worthy of notice that there is an art to be -acquired even in climbing grass slopes. We had more than one -opportunity on the present occasion of seeing that persons look -supremely ridiculous if they stumble about, and we noticed also that, -like a bowler when he has delivered a long hop to the off for the third -time in one over, the stumbler invariably inspects the nails in his -boots, a proceeding which deceives no one. It is quite easy to judge of -a man's real mountaineering capacity by the way in which he attacks a -steep grass slope. The unskilful person, who fancies himself perfectly -at home among the intricacies of an ice-fall, will often candidly admit -that he never can walk with well-balanced equilibrium on grass, a form -of vegetable which it might be thought in many instances of -self-sufficient mountaineers, would naturally suit them. There is often -real danger in such places, and not infrequently the wise man will -demand the use of the rope, especially when there are any tired members -among the party. There is no better way of learning how to preserve a -proper balance on a slope than by practising on declivities of moderate -steepness, and it is astonishing to find how often those who think they -have little to learn, or, still worse, that there is nothing to learn, -will find themselves in difficulties on a mountain-side, and forced to -realise that they have got themselves into a rather humiliating -position. We may have seen, before now, all of us, distinguished -cragsmen to whom an ascent of the Weisshorn or Matterhorn was but a mere -stroll, utterly pounded in botanical expeditions after Edelweiss, and -compelled to regain a position of security by very ungraceful sprawls, -or, worse still, have to resort to the unpardonable alternative of -asking for assistance." - -The following accounts of adventures on grass slopes, taken from _The -Alpine Journal_, may serve to bear out the truth of Mr Dent's remarks: - -"On Monday, 31st August, Mr J. F. C. Devas, aged 26, accompanied by a -friend, Mr A. G. Ferard, proceeded after lunch to take a stroll from the -Riffel-Haus towards the Gorner Glacier by the Theodule path. Before -reaching the glacier they returned, Mr Ferard by the ordinary route. Mr -Devas, leaving the path to the left, attempted a short cut by climbing -some wet and slippery rocks leading to a grass slope above. He reached a -difficult place, immediately below the slope, beyond which he was unable -to go. Mr Ferard made his way as speedily as possible to the grass slope -and to within a few yards of his friend. While Mr Ferard was -endeavouring to render assistance, Mr Devas, in trying to pull himself -up, lost his footing and slid down about 70 feet to a ledge covered with -turf, which it might have been hoped would have arrested his fall. -Unfortunately, the impetus was sufficient to carry him over the ledge to -a further distance of about 70 feet below. His friend hastened to the -Riffel-Haus for assistance, and a number of guides and porters, -accompanied by Mr Ferard and a French gentleman, hurried to the scene of -the accident. Mr Devas, who had sustained a severe fracture of the -skull, was brought back to the Riffel-Haus about 5 P.M., where he -received the most unremitting care from M. Seiler's staff of servants. -He was unconscious from the moment of the accident till he died at noon -of the following day." - -Another writer gives an account of an adventure on a grass slope which, -happily, had a less serious ending. He also attempted to make a short -cut. - -"I entangled myself in an adventure which, as nearly as possible, ended -in a catastrophe. Not caring to turn back, I followed a track past the -chalets of Cavrera, in hope of being able to find a direct ascent over -the steep lower ground that enclosed the head of the valley. It seemed -as I advanced that among the ledges of rock and grass at the left-hand -corner there would be access to the path above. A dubious and attenuated -track which led me up in this direction after giving evidence of design -in a few steps notched in the great gneiss slabs, vanished, leaving me -to choose between the slabs which sloped up in front and a line of -juniper bushes on the left of them. As the slabs at this spot could be -walked upon, and higher up seemed to ease off again, I kept to the rocks -without investigating the juniper belt. But walking exchanged itself for -climbing, and I continued to ascend under the impression that I should -shortly gain the inclination above. I came to a spot where I had to -raise myself on to a small rounded knob of rock with a slight effort, -there being no hand-hold above. From this vantage-ground I was able to -repeat the process, still buoyed up with the belief that the easy part -would be reached above, and to hoist myself on to the only remaining -hold in the neighbourhood--a strong tuft of grass in a sort of half -corner in the slabs--which supported one foot well, but one foot only. I -now found I could go no further. The strata inclined downwards, so that -the smooth and crackless slabs overlay one another like the slates on a -house-roof, and there was no more hold for hand or foot apparent, while -the slabs were far too steep for unsupported progression. The next -discovery was a much more alarming one; I looked below, wondered why on -earth I had come up such a place, and saw at a glance that I could not -get down again. If I fell, moreover, it would not be by the line of my -ascent, but down steeper rocks and to a lower depth. Generally in a -dilemma in climbing there is a sort of instinctive feeling that an -escape will be made at last, but now, for the first time, I was seized -with a sentiment akin to despair. One chance only remained, and that was -to take off my boots and stockings and try the slabs above. - -"The stories of extraordinary predicaments in the Alps one is apt to -receive with some incredulity. I never altogether accepted the tale of -the chamois-hunter's gashing his feet, and, needless to say, it did not -occur to me to imitate him in this particular. For the rest, I can only -promise the literal narration of circumstances _as they presented -themselves to me at the time_. It is, indeed, sufficiently sensational -without exaggeration. Well, it appeared at first impossible to take my -boots off; I was facing the rocks with one toe on the turf, and the -necessary manipulation could not be accomplished. What was to be done? -This was, perhaps, the worst moment of the whole, as far as sensation -went. However, by turning round, and planting my heel on the tuft and my -back on the rock, I found myself in a secure and tolerably comfortable -position. I now set to work and slung my boots separately round my neck -as I took them off, pocketing the socks. All was done with deliberation; -the laces were as usual untied with the button-hook in my cherished -knife, and the latter was carefully returned to my pocket with the -thought that if it went down it should be in my company. Meantime the -necessary rigidity of position had to be preserved; there was only room -in the turf for one heel, and for the point of my ice-axe, for which -there was no other possible resting-place. Its preservation, indeed, -that day was wonderful; at one time I felt a momentary temptation to -throw it down in order to better the hold with the hand, but this would -not bear a second thought. - -"I now lost no time in placing myself on the slabs. I found that I dare -not move on them in an upright position, and had to seek support with -both hands. My condition was not an enviable one, and in no direction -could an effort to proceed be made without danger. The situation was as -follows: If I could manage to advance in front, I should, eventually, -reach the more easily inclined slabs, on which I could walk; but then it -was some way. If I could cross the much shorter interval (some 15 feet) -to the right, I should reach a grass band below the rocks at the side; -but then there intervened a broad, black, glistening streak, where -waters oozed down and where to tread was fatal. Suddenly, without any -warning, I found myself going down. I remember no slip, but rather that -it was as if all hold gave way at once under the too potent force of -gravity. Anyhow I was sliding down the rocks, and that helplessly I -made, I believe, little or no attempt to obtain fresh hold; I simply -remained rigid in the position in which I was, waiting for the fatal -momentum to come which should dash me below. The instants passed, and at -each I expected the momentum to begin. I felt quite a surprise when, -instead, the sliding mass slowly pulled up and came to a stoppage. The -scales of fate had been most delicately balanced, and a hair's weight in -the right one decided that this paper should be written. Had I -floundered, like a non-swimmer out of his depth, I must have gone down; -but the first moments of despondency past the opening for action had -once for all brought with it that species of mechanical coolness which -is the happy concomitant of so many forms of habitual physical -occupation. - -[Illustration: The balloon "Stella" getting ready to start from Zermatt -for the first balloon passage of the Alps, September, 1903. - -(_P. 301._)] - -[Illustration: A bivouac in the Alps in the olden days. By the late Mr. -W. F. Donkin.] - -[Illustration: Boulder practice on an off day. - -_To face_ p 148.] - -[Illustration: The last rocks on the descent.] - -"If it be asked, what were my thoughts when I was going down, I can only -reply that they chiefly amounted to a sort of dull feeling that I was -actually in for a fall, being concentrated on waiting for its inevitable -commencement; and that there was no such terror or disagreeable -realisation of the situation as people are apt to assign to such -moments. Such realisations exist most deeply in the imaginations of the -non-combatants outside the fray. During the whole affair my attention -was mainly directed to the physical combating with difficulties, and the -passing reflections were partly indifferent, partly frivolous. A sort -of acceptance of the position, indeed, possessed me, which almost -amounted to a melancholy complacency, and, at most, perhaps, the -customary 'When I get out of this' was changed as fast as it rose up in -my imagination into a sadder 'If ever.' It was the feeling of the -gamester or the soldier surprised at last by adverse odds, intent on his -craft as at other times, but with a new and melancholy consciousness. - -"My first thought when I came to a standstill--I cannot have gone more -than a couple of feet at most--was what I could do even then, with no -more hold than before? But I placed myself again in my old position on -the tuft; and reflecting that if I had been intended to go down I should -have gone then, and almost feeling as if, having escaped that extremity -of risk, I had a sort of security for the rest, I resolved without -further hesitation to make a determined effort. I once more raised -myself on my feet and decided to make a push across the slabs to the -grass belt at all hazards; possibly, in case of slipping on the way, I -might be able to make a desperate sort of rush for it. I now found two -unevennesses in succession, which would allow the side of the foot to -rest in them with some chance of staying, while I moved my body along, -there being at no time hold for the hand. The second of these slight -hollows was fortunately in the dread bank of moisture itself. Below, -the rocks shelved away to a steep fall; in front, the grass tufts smiled -on me nearer and nearer. While I was feeling along the slabs with the -hand that held my ice-axe, the latter by chance fixed itself in a cavity -that would otherwise have escaped my notice. It was just about the size -and depth of a half-crown, and could not have been caught by the -fingers, but the rigid iron stuck in it. This was perhaps the first bit -of direct hold I had. A yard further on was another of the same size. -But now I had passed the wet rock and was nearing the grass, and -carefully launching my ice-axe, so as not to disturb my balance, I -hooked it in the grass, and in another moment had reached its hospitable -tufts. Creeping up the side, I at last found _terra firma_." - - - - -CHAPTER IX - -A NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE DENT BLANCHE - - -Mr Cecil Slingsby has kindly allowed me to extract the following -admirable account of a guideless ascent with two friends of the Dent -Blanche. It will be noticed that during a very cold night they "avoided" -their "brandy-flask like poison." When a climber is exhausted and help -is near a flask of brandy is invaluable, but when a party has to spend a -bitterly cold night in the open, it is madness to touch spirits at all. -The effect of a stimulant is to quicken the action of the heart and -drive the blood with increased rapidity to the surface. Here it is -continually cooled, and before long the heart finds it has to work -double hard to keep up the circulation. Therefore to take brandy in -order to resist the cold for hours together is like stirring up a cup of -hot fluid, whereby fresh surfaces are continually brought in contact -with the air and cooled with far greater rapidity than if left quiet. -The best companion a climber can have during a night out above the -snow-line is a small spirit-lamp. With this he can amuse and fortify -himself at intervals, melting snow and making tea or soup, which will be -of real help in enabling the party to pass without injury through the -ordeal. Doctors and climbers of experience will, I know, bear out what I -say. The truth of it was once more shown not very long ago under the -following circumstances: - -[Illustration: PROVISIONS FOR A MOUNTAIN HOTEL. By Royston Le Blond. - -_To face p. 152._] - -[Illustration: THE DENT BLANCHE FROM THE THEODULE GLACIER IN SUMMER.] - -[Illustration: AN OUTLOOK OVER ROCK AND SNOW.] - -[Illustration: THE DENT BLANCHE FROM THE SCHWARZSEE IN WINTER.] - -In August 1902 two French tourists with a guide and a porter set out to -ascend Mont Blanc. The weather became very bad, nevertheless they -pressed on, hoping to reach that veritable death-trap, the Vallot Hut. -In this they failed, and as the hour was late they took the fatal course -of digging a hole in the snow in which to pass the night. They were -provided with brandy, and, doubtless in ignorance of the results it was -sure to cause, they shared all they had. Both travellers died before -morning, and the guides then attempted to descend to Chamonix. They seem -to have been dazed, and to have lost their heads, and within a few -minutes of each other each fell into a crevasse. The porter was killed -on the spot, the guide was rescued, but little injured, after six hours' -imprisonment. - -Will people ever realise that Mont Blanc, by reason of the very facility -by which it may be ascended, is the most dangerous mountain a beginner -can ascend? He is almost certain to chance on incompetent guides, and -these, if the weather becomes bad, have not the moral force--indeed a -first-class man would have something even more compelling--to insist on -an immediate return. The size of the mountain is so great that to be -lost on it is a risk a really good guide would simply refuse to face. - -To turn now to Mr Slingsby's narrative. His party had reached the -_arete_ of the Dent Blanche without incident, and he writes: - -"The rocks on the crest of the ridge were in perfect order. The day was -magnificent, and there was not the remotest sign of a storm. Climbers -who were on neighbouring mountains on this day all speak of the fine -weather. My friend, Mr Eric Greenwood, who was on the Rothhorn, told me -that that peak was in capital condition, but that there was a strong -N.W. wind blowing at the top. We had perfect calm. Mr Greenwood stopped -on the snow _arete_ till a late hour in the afternoon, taking -photographs, and neither his guides nor he had the slightest expectation -of a thunderstorm. - -"We stuck faithfully to the ridge, and climbed up, and as nearly as -possible over, each point as we reached it, because of the ice which -shrouded the rocks almost everywhere on the west face. - -"We were forced on to the face of one little pinnacle, and had to use -the greatest care. - -"Nowhere did we come to any place where we felt that our powers were -overtaxed; still, the work was difficult, though not supremely so. - -"A few days later I met Mr Conway at Breuil, and I asked him what he -meant in this case by the term, 'following the _arete_.' His -interpretation, which is rather an elastic one, is this: 'Climb over the -pinnacles if it is convenient to do so. If not convenient, shirk them by -passing below their western bases.' This latter method was most probably -impracticable on the occasion of our ascent, which fully accounts for -the great difference between Mr Conway's 'times' and our own, as we -certainly climbed at least as quickly as an average party on the Dent -Blanche during the whole of our ascent. - -"The time sped merrily and quickly by, and the difficulties decreased as -we hastened onward. Just as we left the last rocks a light filmy cloud, -sailing up from the north, hovered for an instant over the top of the -mountain, and then settled upon it; otherwise, though it had then become -exceedingly cold, the sky was clear and the day perfect, and we could -not help comparing our good fortune with that of those early climbers -who fought their way upwards, step by step, against most ferocious -gales. - -"After some tiring step-cutting on the gentler slopes above the rocks, -which, like the west face, were sheathed in ice, we reached at last the -south end of the little flat ridge which forms the summit of the Dent -Blanche, where a small flagstaff is usually to be seen. Here there was -an enormous snow cornice which overhung the eastern side. The little -cloud merely clung to the cornice on the ridge, and evidently had no -malice in it at all. None of us put down the time at which we reached -the top. One of us thinks that it was just after four o'clock, but the -memory of the two others is clear that it was between three and four; at -any rate, of this we are all agreed, that it was not so late as 4.12, -the hour when the author of _Scrambles in the Alps_ reached the summit -in bad weather. My watch, being out of order, was left at Zermatt. - -"We left directly, and in less than a minute were out of the little -cloud, which was uncommonly cold, and again we revelled in bright -sunshine. We were under no apprehension of danger, nor had we any reason -whatever to be anxious, as our way was clear enough: there was no doubt -about that. We were in capital training, and we had, most certainly, a -sufficiency of daylight still left to allow us to get well beyond every -difficulty upon the mountain. Moreover, Solly, with his usual -instinctive thoughtfulness, carried a lantern in his pocket, and we had -left another lower down. Thus we had a most reasonable expectation of -reaching the Stockje that evening, and Zermatt early the next morning. - -[Illustration: The hut on the Col de Bertol, where climbers now often -sleep for the ascent of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: A party ascending the Aiguilles Rouges (Arolla). The -people can be seen on the sky-line to the left, at the top of the white -streak. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: The summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: Cornice on the summit of the Dent Blanche. By Mr. Leonard -Rawlence. - -_To face p. 156._] - -"When we had come down for about an hour, we saw an occasional flash of -lightning playing about the Aiguilles Rouges d'Arolla. This was the -first indication that we had of foul weather. Soon afterwards a dark -cloud crept up ominously over the shoulder of Mont Collon, and on to the -Pigne d'Arolla. Still no cloud seemed to threaten us, but we hurried on -very quickly. - -"On arriving at the col, just above the great rock tower, we turned down -a little gully on the west face. Here, though the work was exceedingly -difficult, we lost no time whatever, and undoubtedly we chose the best -route. The storm, meanwhile, had crossed over the east Arolla ridge, and -we saw the lightning flashing about the Aiguille de la Za and Dent -Perroc, and the clouds, as they advanced, grew more and more angry -looking. - -"We were advancing as quickly as the nature of the ground would allow on -a buttress which supports the great tower on the west. It was then about -six o'clock. We had, at the most, only 150 feet of difficult ground to -get over, when a dark and dense cloud fell upon us, and it became, -suddenly and almost without any warning, prematurely dark. Our axes -emitted electric sparks, or rather faint but steady little flames, on -both the adze and pick part; so also did our gloves, the hair of which -stood out quite straight. A handkerchief, which I had tied over my hat, -was like a tiara of light. This was very uncanny, but still deeply -interesting. The sparks, when touched by the bare hand or the cheek, -gave out no heat. There was no hissing to be heard on our axes or on the -rocks, but Solly felt a sort of vibration about the spectacles which -were on his forehead that he did not at all like, so he put them under -his hat. - -"Under ordinary circumstances we should have put away our axes until the -storm should had passed away. Of course we did not do this, nor indeed -would any other member of the Alpine Club have done so if he had had the -good fortune to be with us. We wished to get across the 150 feet which -was the only difficulty yet remaining before us. Each one of us was -quite capable of undertaking the work, and, in spite of the unusual -darkness, we had sufficient light for the purpose. - -"Solly was leading across a difficult bit of rock, and clearing away the -ice; Haskett-Smith was paying out the rope as required; I was perched -firmly at the bottom end of a narrow and steep ledge round the corner of -a crag above them with the rope firmly hitched. We were all working -steadily and most carefully, and hoped in a few minutes to clear our -last difficulty. All at once the whole mountain side seemed to be -ablaze, and at the same time there was a muzzled, muffled, or suppressed -peal of thunder, apparently coming out of the interior of the -mountain--so much so that, if a great crevice had been opened in the -rocks and fire had burst out from it, we should hardly have been more -surprised than we were. Solly and Haskett-Smith each exclaimed, 'My axe -was struck,' and each of them, naturally enough, let his axe go. Where -to none knew. Solly, describing this, says, 'At the moment I was -standing with my face towards the mountain, with my right arm stretched -out, feeling for a firm foothold with my axe, which I held just under -its head. For perhaps a minute the lightning was coming very fast; then -came the noise, and I saw a curve of flame on the head of my axe. I -involuntarily let it go. The whole place seemed one blaze of light, and -I could distinguish nothing. The thought that rushed through my mind -was--Am I blinded? the intensity of the light was so terrible. It is -difficult to put such events in any order of time; but I think the noise -or explosion came first, before the blaze of light, and the light seemed -to flicker as if a series of flashes were coming. I hardly know whether -my body or any part of my clothing was actually struck. My axe certainly -was, and I think the rocks just by me were.' - -"Haskett-Smith said that his neck was burnt, and we saw later that a -dark-brown band, an inch and a quarter wide, had been burnt exactly half -way round his neck. I was untouched. All the sparks disappeared with -the flash. - -"Now the matter was serious enough, as we had only one axe, and we felt -that we had had a most providential escape. There is little doubt that, -if this had occurred upon the crest of the ridge above us, the electric -current would have been much stronger, and the consequences much worse. - -"My two companions then climbed up to the little ledge where I was -sitting, to wait at least until the storm should pass away. Whilst Solly -was doing this, a tremendous gust of wind swept up from the N.W., and -nearly carried him off his feet. - -"The storm lasted much longer than we expected it to do, and by the time -it had vanished it was quite dark. All climbers will readily agree with -me when I say that the storm, seen from such a point of view, where the -mountain forms are so wild, and their guardian glaciers so vast and -glittering, was indescribably grand--so much so that, even under our -circumstances, there was a kind of grim enjoyment which we could not -help feeling. - -"I put my axe upon a higher ledge for safety's sake. When the storm had -gone by we took stock of our goods. Solly had a lantern. We each had two -shirts, scarfs, and unusually warm clothing. We had plenty of food, some -cold tea, and a flask of brandy. We knew well that we must stop where we -were until morning. It was hard luck certainly, as there was only one -narrow prison moat between us and freedom. Once over these 150 feet, we -could have reached the Stockje by lantern light. Of this I am certain. -But no man living could cross the moat except in daylight. - -"Haskett-Smith, who is a marvellous man for making all sort of hitches, -knots, and nooses, managed to get a capital hitch for our rope, and -lashed us to the rock most skilfully. The ledge was steep, and varied -from 11/2 to 2 feet wide. As we could not sit back to back, which is the -best plan when possible, we did the next best thing, and sat, squatted, -or leaned, face to back. Solly, who sat at the bottom, had a loose piece -of friable rock which supported one foot. I was in the middle, with my -knees up to my chin, on a steep slope, but was supported by Solly's back -and by a singularly sharp little stone on which I squatted. -Haskett-Smith leaned with his back against a corner, and with his knees -against my back. Each of us had a ruecksack, which helped to keep out the -cold. We made a good meal of potted meat, bread, chocolate, and an -orange, and left a box of sardines and other food for the morning. - -"Several short but heavy snow and hail showers fell after the -thunderstorm had subsided, but we were thankful that there was no rain. -The wind got up too, and whistled wildly through the crags above us. -Fortunately, a screen of rock above our ledge partly sheltered us. We -faced a grim and grisly little pinnacle on the west face of the -mountain, which became, hour after hour, if possible, more ghostly. How -we did hate it, to be sure. A light in a chalet near Ferpecle shone like -a beacon for some hours, which was a pleasant contrast to the near view -of the ghost, but it seemed to be a terribly long way off. We kept up -our spirits capitally, and from previous experience I, at least, knew -how thankful we ought to be that no member of our party was of a -pessimistic turn of mind. At the same time, we were fully aware how -serious the matter was, but we were determined to get well through it, -helped, we trusted, by a power not our own. - -"Our greatest trouble during the night arose from the consciousness that -Mr Schuster, Herr Seiler, and other friends at Zermatt would be very -anxious about us, and we often spoke of it with regret. - -"We were most careful to keep moving our hands and feet all the night, -and, though the temptation to indulge in sleep was very great, we denied -ourselves this luxury. After two o'clock an increased vigilance was -necessary, as the sky became clearer, and the cold much more intense. Mr -Aitkin's guides, who were then bivouacking above the Stockje, -'complained much of the cold.' We probably suffered less than they did, -as, at our great altitude, the air was doubtless much drier than below. -At the same time, gentlemen who were occupying comfortable beds in -luxurious hotels in the Vispthal thought the night was unusually warm. -Haskett-Smith imagined the whole night that Solly was another member of -the A.C., and invariably addressed him by the wrong name. This -hallucination was, no doubt, the result of the electric shock. - -"Shortly before 5 A.M. we opened our sardine-box, which was no easy -task, as our outer gloves were like iron gauntlets. We made a good meal -of petrified fish, frozen oranges, and bread. We avoided our -brandy-flask like poison on the whole expedition. - -"We soon discovered the lost axes below us, half embedded in hard snow. -Then we began to move. Solly took my axe, and with much difficulty, and -at the expense of a good deal of time, cut down to and recovered one of -the missing ones. We found, however, that it was then far too cold, and -we were too benumbed to work safely, so we returned to our ledge again -until eight o'clock. Long before this hour the ghostly pinnacle was -gilded by the morning sun, and, if possible, we hated it more than ever, -as no warm rays could reach the place where we were for hours to come. -On telling several of the leading guides in Zermatt about waiting until -eight o'clock on the ledge, they all said that it was quite early -enough for us to move after spending a night out in the cold, and that -they had done exactly the same under similar circumstances. We were sure -we were right; still their testimony is valuable. Messrs Kennedy and -Hardy, when they had their 'Night Adventure on the Bristenstock,' say -they were 'obliged to stamp about for some twenty minutes in order to -restore circulation, or we should not have had sufficient steadiness to -have continued our descent in safety.' Well, these gentlemen had neither -waistcoats nor neckties, and had only a lump of bread and one bottle of -wine. We were at least well fed and warmly clad, but we had no room to -stamp about. Having now two axes, we were able to work again with -renewed confidence in our powers. We saw the third axe lying half -imbedded in the snow a long way below us, and about a rope's length from -some firm rocks. The hail and snow, which had partly covered the rocks, -increased the difficulty, and the ice in which we had to cut steps was -unusually hard. In fact, our 150 feet were gained with much difficulty, -and, by the exercise of great caution and severe labour, at last, after -much time and manoeuvring, we recovered the third axe, and were indeed -happy. - -"Two minutes later we stood in bright sunshine, and such was its -invigorating power that in ten minutes all our stiffness had vanished. -My hat blew off here, and rolled on its stiffened brim at a tremendous -pace down a couloir of ice. Fortunately, I had a woollen helmet which -Miss Richardson had knitted for me. We hastened on very quickly in order -to relieve, as soon as possible, the anxiety which we well knew our -friends at Zermatt were enduring. - -"When on the snow ridge between points 3912 metres and 3729 metres we -heard voices far below us on the west, and soon saw what we knew -afterwards to be Mr Aitkin, Imboden, and a porter. They had abandoned -their intention of climbing the Dent Blanche 'on account of bad -weather.' Indeed, Miss Richardson, who had spent the night at the -Stockje, was told by Imboden that 'in such weather it would be -impossible, and probably would remain so for a day or two; therefore, -they might as well go to Ferpecle and do another col the next day.' - -"Seeing that the party were above the route to Ferpecle, we knew at once -that they were looking for us. Imboden shouted out to us, 'Where do you -come from?' We pointed to the Dent Blanche, and they immediately turned -towards Zermatt, and we only missed them by about five minutes at the -usual breakfast place. - -"Now, as we knew that there was no need for us to hurry, we rested, and -made a most hearty breakfast, as we had left on the rocks a whole -chicken, some ham, bread, plums, and a bottle of white wine. - -"On crossing the glacier to the Wandfluh rocks our axes and ruecksacks -hissed like serpents for a long time, while we saw in the distance the -storm which overtook Mr Macdonald on the Lyskamm that very morning; and -none of us liked the renewal of electric energy, which may well be -believed. A heavy mist also threatened us. Mr Aitkin had a similar -experience to ours. - -"We descended by way of the Wandfluh, and above the Stockje untied the -rope which we had had on for thirty-eight hours; and such is the virtue -of the Alpine knot that we were as firmly tied at the end of this time -as we were when we first put on the rope. - -"On the Zmutt Glacier we bathed our hands repeatedly in the glacier -pools as a safeguard against possible frost-bites with entirely -satisfactory results. On the glacier we were delighted to meet Mr E. T. -Hartley, who welcomed us most warmly, and told us of the anxiety of our -friends; he, however, and one good lady in Zermatt said all the time -that we should return safe and sound again. Just off the glacier we met -three porters provided with blankets and provisions sent by the kind -thoughtfulness of Mr Schuster and Herr Seiler. - -"We rested at the Staffel Alp, where we had some most refreshing tea, -and reached Zermatt in the evening." - - - - -CHAPTER X - -ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE - - -I am indebted to Mr Harold Spender, the author of a fine description of -the accident in 1899 on the Dent Blanche, for permission to reprint the -greater portion of it, and also to the proprietors of _McClure's -Magazine_ and of _The Strand Magazine_, in which publications it first -appeared. The safe return of one of the party is alluded to in _The -Alpine Journal_ as one of the most wonderful escapes in the whole annals -of mountaineering. - -"Mr F. W. Hill, whose narrative in _The Alpine Journal_ necessarily -forms the best evidence as to the incidents, says that it was Glynne -Jones who wanted to climb the Dent Blanche by its western _arete_--a -notably difficult undertaking, and one that has probably only twice been -achieved. - -"Glynne Jones had discussed the possibilities of the undertaking with -his own guide, Elias Furrer, of Stalden, and they had come to the -conclusion that the conditions were never likely to be more favourable -than in this August of 1899. Glynne Jones, therefore, asked Mr Hill to -accompany them, and to bring along with him his own guide, Jean -Vuignier, of Evolena. Both guides knew their climbers very well; for -Furrer had been with Glynne Jones on and off for five years, and -Vuignier had climbed at Zermatt with Hill the year before. But Mr Hill, -who had promised to take his wife to Zermatt over the Col d'Herens, -refused to go. Glynne Jones accordingly secured a second guide in -Clemens Zurbriggen, of Saas-Fee, a young member of a great climbing -clan. Vuignier, however, was so disappointed at his employer's refusal, -that Mr Hill, finding that his wife made no objection, finally consented -to join the party. Thus, with the addition of Mr Hill and his guide, the -expedition numbered five members. They left Arolla on Sunday morning, -27th August, with a porter carrying blankets. They intended to sleep on -the rocks below the _arete_. Arriving at the Bricolla chalets, a few -shepherds' huts high up the mountain, at four in the afternoon, they -changed their minds, sent the blankets down to Arolla, and slept in the -huts. - -"They started at three o'clock in the morning in two parties, the first -consisting of Furrer, Zurbriggen, and Jones, roped in that order, and -the second of Vuignier and Hill. They crossed the glacier and reached -the ridge in good time. 'It was soon very evident,' says Mr Hill in his -narrative, 'that the climbing was going to be difficult, as the rocks -were steep slabs, broken and easy occasionally, but, on the whole, far -too smooth.' Rock-climbers do not particularly care how steep a rock may -be so long as it is broken up into fissures which will give hold to the -feet and hands. In the steepest mountains of the Dolomite region, for -instance, the rocks are thus broken, and therefore mountains can be -climbed easily which, from their bases, look absolutely inaccessible. - -"As they progressed up and along the ridge the climbing became more and -more difficult. They had to go slowly and with extreme caution, and -often they were in doubt as to the best way to proceed. Sometimes, -indeed, there seemed no possible route. In these places Furrer, who -seems to have been accepted as the leader of the party, would detach -himself from the rope and go forward to find a passage. - -"On entering upon this part of the climb the two parties had joined -ropes, and were now advancing as one, and roped in this order--Furrer, -Zurbriggen, Glynne Jones, Vuignier, and Hill. - -"It is evident that between nine o'clock and ten climbing had become -exceedingly arduous. 'In two or three places,' says Mr Hill, 'the only -possible way was over an overhanging rock up which the leader had to be -pushed and the others helped from above and below.' This gives us a -graphic picture of the nature of the climb. Nothing is more fatiguing -than to climb over a rock which is in the least degree overhanging. Mr -Hill tells me that Furrer showed him his finger-tips at -breakfast-time--9 A.M.--and that they were severely cut. - -"Yet no one must imagine for an instant that the party was in the least -degree puzzled or vexed. There is nothing so exhilarating as the -conflict with danger, and it generally happens in climbing a mountain -that the party is merriest at the most difficult places. Mr Hill, -indeed, tells us that they were in the 'highest spirits.' 'Climbing -carefully,' he says, 'but in the highest spirits, we made good progress, -for at ten o'clock it was agreed we were within an hour of the summit.' -It was at this point and time that the accident occurred. - -"They had been forced below the ridge by the difficulty of the rocks, -and had come to a place where their obvious route lay up a narrow gully, -or sloping chimney. On an ordinary day it is possible that they would -have found no difficulty in going forward, but a few days before there -had been rain, and probably snow, on these high rock summits. At any -rate, the rocks were 'glazed'; covered, that is, with a film of ice, -probably snow melted and re-frozen, just sufficiently thick to adhere, -and sufficiently slippery to make the fingers 'slither' over the rocks. -If the climber cannot clear away the ice with his ice-axe, he must go -round another way, and if the rocks are steep the first course becomes -obviously impossible. That was the condition of affairs at ten o'clock -on the morning of 28th August 1899. - -"In a party of five roped together, with 30 feet of rope between each -member, the amount of space covered by the party will obviously be 40 -yards; and it frequently happens that those who are roped last cannot -see the leaders. Mr Hill, as we have seen, was roped last, and by the -time he reached the level of the other climbers Furrer had already -turned away from the gully and was attempting to climb to the ridge by -another route. To the left of the gully in front of them was a vertical -rock face stretching for about 30 feet. Beyond this was a smooth-looking -buttress some 10 feet high, by climbing which the party could regain the -ridge. When Hill came up with the rest, Furrer was already attempting to -climb this buttress. - -"But the buttress was quite smooth, and Furrer was at a loss to find a -hold. Unable to support himself, he called to Zurbriggen to place an axe -under his feet for him to stand on. In this way he might be able to -reach with his hands to the top of the buttress. There was nothing -unusual in this method of procedure. In climbing difficult rocks, when -the hand-holds are far up, it is frequently the custom to help the -climber by placing an ice-axe under his feet. But in this case Furrer -discovered that he could not climb the buttress with the help of -Zurbriggen alone, and he would probably have done more wisely if he had -abandoned the attempt. But, instead of that, he called Glynne Jones to -help Zurbriggen in holding him up. - -"'Apparently,' says Mr Hill, 'he did not feel safe, for he turned his -head and spoke to Glynne Jones, who then went to hold the axe steady.' - -"From Mr Hill's own explanations the situation was as follows: The -leading climber, Furrer, was grasping the rock face, standing on an -ice-axe held vertically by Zurbriggen and Glynne Jones. These two were -forced, in order to hold the ice-axe securely, to crouch down with their -faces to the ground, and were, therefore oblivious of what was going on -above them. But the important point is, that their four hands were -occupied in holding the ice-axe, and that as they were standing on a -narrow ledge, with a very sharp slope immediately below, these two men -were in a helpless position. They were unready to stand a shock. Thus, -at the critical moment, out of a party of five climbers, three had -virtually cast everything on a single die! - -"Mr Hill, standing level with the rest of the party, could see quite -clearly what was happening. He was about 60 feet distant from them, the -guide Vuignier being roped between them at an equal distance of some 30 -feet from each. Furrer could now stand upright on the axe, which was -firmly held by four strong hands, and could reach with his own fingers -to the top of the buttress. It was a perilous moment. It is the rule -with skilled climbers that you should never leave your foot-hold until -you have secured your hand-hold. The natural issue would have been that -Furrer, finding it impossible to secure on the smooth rock a steady grip -with his hands, should have declined to trust himself. But the science -of the study is one thing and the art of the mountain another. There are -moments when a man does not know whether he has secured a steady grip or -an unsteady, and the question can only be answered by making the -attempt. If the party blundered at all, it was in allowing the second -and third men to be so completely occupied with holding the axe that -there was no reserve of power to hold up Furrer in case of a slip. But -it is easy to speak after the event. - -"What Hill now saw was this: He saw Furrer reach his hands to the top of -the buttress, take a grip, and attempt to pull himself up. But his feet -never left the ice-axe beneath, for in the process of gripping his hands -slipped. And then, as Hill looked, Furrer's body slowly fell back. It -seemed, he has told himself, to take quite a long time falling. Furrer -fell backwards, right on to the two oblivious men beneath him, causing -them to collapse instantly, knocking them off their standing-place, and -carrying them with him in his fall from the ridge. 'All three,' says Mr -Hill in his narrative, 'fell together.' Instinctively he turned to the -wall to get a better hold of the rock, and therefore did not see the -next incident in the fatal sequence. Vuignier, as we have seen, was -standing 30 feet from the first three, and the weight of three human -bodies swinging at the end of the rope must have come directly on him. -He was, apparently, taken by surprise, and immediately pulled off the -rock. Hill heard that terrible sound--the scuffle and rattle of stones -that meant the dragging of a helpless human being into space--and he -knew, or thought he knew, that his own turn would come in a moment; but -as he clung there to the rock, waiting for the inevitable end, there was -a pause. Nothing happened. - -"After a few endless seconds of time he faced round and found himself -alone. Looking down, he saw his four companions sliding down the -precipitous slopes at a terrific rate, without a cry, but with arms -outstretched, helplessly falling into the abyss. Between him and them, -and from his waist, there hung 30 feet of rope swinging slowly to and -fro. The faithful Vuignier had probably fastened the rope securely -round some point of rock to protect his master. The full weight of the -four bodies had probably expended itself on the rock-fastening of the -rope, and thereby saved the life of the fifth climber. Dazed and -astonished to find himself still in the land of the living, Mr Hill -stood for some time watching his comrades fall, until, sickened, he -turned away to face his own situation. - -"It was not very promising. He was without food, drink, or warm -clothing. No man alone could climb down by the ridge up which those five -experts had climbed in the morning. And in front lay a difficulty which -had already destroyed his friends when attempting to overcome it by -mutual help. It seemed impossible. - -"Perhaps it was fortunate that Hill was not only a mathematician, but a -man of characteristic mathematical temperament--cool, unemotional, -long-headed. Most men in his situation would have gone mad. Some would -have waited right there till starvation overcame them or a rescue party -arrived. But there was little or no chance of a rescue party, and Mr -Hill was certainly not the man to wait for starvation. It was a curious -irony that probably at that very moment there was a party on the summit -of the Dent Blanche. Mr Hill's party had seen two climbers on the south -_arete_ at half-past eight o'clock, and again about an hour later. At -this moment they were probably at the summit. But Mr Hill had no means -of communicating with them, and the hour's climb which lay between him -and them might as well have been the length of Europe. An hour later he -himself heard a faint 'cooey' (the party were probably on the way -down)--a jovial, generous hail from men unconscious of any catastrophe. - -"Mr Hill's immediate task was to regain the ridge and reach the summit. -At the moment of the accident he was some 60 feet from the fatal -buttress, and now wisely made no attempt to get near it. Instead, he -moved to circumvent the glazed gully from its other side. After long and -tedious efforts, lasting for a period of time which he cannot now even -approximately estimate, he succeeded in his flanking movement, and -finally, with great labour and peril, climbed back to the ridge by a -slope of frozen snow and ice broken with rocks. It would be difficult to -imagine anything more terrible than this lonely climb over ice-covered -rocks, the painful cutting of steps up an almost precipitous wall, with -a precipice many thousand feet deep at his back, down which the smallest -slip would send him to certain death. But at last he regained the ridge, -and the difficulties of ascent were now mainly overcome. In about -another hour he found himself on the summit--a solitary, mournful -victor. It was there he heard the shout from the other party. But he -could not see them or make them hear, and so he made his way down with -all reasonable speed, hoping to overtake them. - -"Hill had climbed the Dent Blanche in the previous year with a guided -party, and therefore, to some extent, knew the route. Without much -difficulty he was able to follow the ridge as far as possible down to -the lowest _gendarme_, a pile of rock with a deep, narrow fissure. Then -a sudden mist hid everything from view, and it was impossible to see the -way off the _gendarme_. He tried several routes downward in the mist, -but at last wisely resolved to wait till it lifted. While he was -searching, a snow-storm and a cold wind came up. 'They drove me,' says -Mr Hill in his plain way, 'to seek shelter in the lee of the rocks.' -There he tied himself with his rope, and, to avoid the danger of falling -off in a moment of sleep, still further secured himself by an ice-axe -wedged firmly in front of him--poor protections to a man absolutely -without food or wraps, clinging to the side of an abyss in the searching -cold and stormy darkness of mist and snow, wedged under the eave of an -overhanging rock, and only able to sit in a cramped posture. But Mr Hill -was no ordinary man. If the Fates were asking for his life he determined -to sell it dearly, sustained in his resolve by the thought of that -waiting wife, unconscious of ill, below in Zermatt. - -"It must have been, at this time, past mid-day on Monday, 28th August. - -"The storm lasted all that Monday, and Monday night, and Tuesday -morning. All through those dreadful hours of darkness Hill sat in the -cleft of rock, sleeping most of the time, but always half-frozen with -the cold, and whenever he awoke obliged to beat himself to regain his -natural warmth. Happily, he was well protected against the falling snow -by the eave of the overhanging rock, but it covered his knees and boots, -causing him intense cold in the feet. - -"At last, at mid-day on Tuesday, the mist cleared and the sun shone -again in a sky of perfect blue. He could now resume his descent. To -climb over snow-covered rocks in a roped party is difficult enough, but -to do it alone is to risk your life many times over. But there was no -alternative. - -"At last the rocks ended and the worst of the peril was over. He had -reached the snow _arete_, where not even the heavy fall of snow had -quite obliterated the tracks of those who had gone in front of him. -These helped him to find his way. But the steps had mostly to be recut, -and that must have been very fatiguing after his previous experiences. -The next difficulty was the lower part of the Wandfluh, a bold wall of -rock which leads down first to the Schonbuhl and then to the Zmutt -Glaciers, and which, at its base, ends in a steep precipice that can be -descended only by one gully. Here Mr Hill's memory failed him. He could -not remember which was the right gully. This was, perhaps, the most -terrible trial of all. If he could find that gully his task was almost -accomplished. The rest of the descent to Zermatt is little more than a -walk. But hour after hour passed; he descended gully after gully, only -to find himself blocked below by one precipice after another. In one of -these attempts he dropped his ice-axe, without which he could never hope -to return alive. Unless he could recover it he was a dead man. But, no, -it was not quite lost. There it lay, far below him, on the rocks. Slowly -and painfully he descended the gully to fetch it. At last he reached it. -In this quest he wasted a whole hour! - -"At last he discovered a series of chimneys to the extreme right of the -Wandfluh and leading down to the glacier. Letting himself down these -steep chimneys, he found himself at last, on Tuesday evening, on the -high moraines of the Zmutt Glacier. He must have reached the glacier -about six o'clock, but he had only the sun to reckon by. Here the steep -descent ends, and there is but a stony walk of two and a half hours down -the glacier by a path which leads to the Staffel Alp Inn. The sun set -while he was still on the moraine, and he has a vivid recollection of -seeing the red 'Alpengluh' on Monte Rosa. But as the darkness grew it -became more and more difficult to keep to the path. - -"Here at last his marvellous strength began to fail him. He had no -snow-glasses, and his eyes were suffering from the prolonged glare of -the snow. A sort of waking trance fell on him. As he stumbled forward, -over the stones of that horrible moraine, he imagined that his -companions were still alive and with him. He kept calling to them to -'come along.' 'It is getting late, you fellows,' he shouted; 'come -along.' - -"At last he was brought up by a great rock. In the darkness he had -wandered below the path. The rock entirely barred his way. He had a -vague illusion that it was a chalet, and wandered round it searching for -a door. At last he settled down by it in a semi-conscious condition. -Then he must have fallen asleep, probably about ten o'clock. The sleep -lasted about twelve hours, and was better than meat and drink. To most -men it would have ended in death. - -"When he woke up at ten o'clock on Wednesday morning, in broad daylight, -he soon saw that he had been sleeping quite near the path. A few -minutes' scramble brought him back to it, and he soon came to a little -wooden refreshment-house, about an hour below the Staffel Inn, which he -had passed in the darkness. He went up to the woman at the hut and asked -for some beer! He had only fifty centimes in his pocket; one of his dead -companions had held the purse. He volunteered no complaint; but the -woman was sympathetic, and soon found out whence he came. She then gave -him a little milk and some dry bread--all she had. After a short rest he -resumed his way to Zermatt, distant about half an hour, and reached the -village at 11.30. As he was walking down the main street past the church -he met his wife. - -"He told her simply what had happened. Then he had lunch. 'I was now -ravenous,' he says, 'and devoured a beefsteak, with the help of a glass -of whisky and soda, and a bottle of champagne.' Within an hour or two he -was entirely recovered." - - - - -CHAPTER XI - -A STIRRING DAY ON THE ROSETTA - - -Amongst the many rock scrambles in the neighbourhood of St Martino in -the Dolomites of Tyrol, the Rosetta when ascended by the western face -can be counted on to awaken an interest in the most stolid of climbers. -I am indebted to the courtesy of a girl friend for the loan of her -mountaineering diary, and permission to make extracts from its very -interesting contents, of which her account of an ascent of the Rosetta -will, I feel sure, be read with keen enjoyment by climbers and -non-climbers alike. That a young English girl on her first visit to the -mountains should carry out with such success so difficult an expedition, -is much to the credit of both herself and her guides. Her brother -accompanied her, and the climb took place on 10th August 1898. - -[Illustration: AMBROSE SUPERSAX. (P. 209.)] - -[Illustration: FROM THE ROSETTA. By Signor Vittorio Sella. - -_To face_ p. 182.] - -"A cautious bang at my door, a faint 'Si!' from me, and steps departing. -Then I lit a candle and dressed. But it was the critical moment when the -dawn comes quickly, and I blew it out in five minutes and watched the -blue light brighten on the dusky outlines of the white church and -houses. The Cimone was growing pink as I got on my heavy hob-nailed -boots, and, taking my tennis shoes also, I tramped softly down to -breakfast. Bettega, our leading guide, was there, with his cordial smile -and hand-shake, and G---- and Tavernaro soon appeared. We were off -before long, taking with us a porter in addition to the two guides, and -G---- and I let Bettega see plainly that we thought this a little -superfluous, but later on we were glad we had him. I must admit that I -never met such good-natured and thoughtful guides, nor such excellent -ones. After passing through forest, we had to ascend up steep shingle, -and as this steepened I reeled a little, my feet being not as yet well -used to this sort of work. Bettega, however, put his hand behind him, I -crooked my fingers into his, and that gave me all the balance I needed. -Finally we crossed some snow, and sitting on a little platform under a -towering rock, we perceived that the way we were to ascend the Rosetta -would be a very different experience to the climb by the ordinary route. - -"At this point I took off my skirt, and removed my boots, putting on -tennis shoes instead. The rubber soles of these are far safer than nails -on the smooth and slabby Dolomite rock. - -"The guides jabbered between themselves; Bettega smiled sublimely and -looked utterly in his element, but Tavernaro seemed rather subdued; he -is under the moral influence of Bettega, for though Tavernaro may have -more education and cleverness he rounds upon his comrade at times owing -to his excitable disposition. But on the mountains he slinks at -Bettega's elbow, as the two roll along with the peculiar mountaineer's -bending stride on level ground, and Tavernaro never asks a price or -arranges for an excursion without consulting Bettega. But, on the other -hand, Bettega lives in fear of Tavernaro's lively tongue, so it is about -balanced! - -"Having finished our meal, we set off. I was roped to Bettega, who led. -After about five minutes Bettega, who till then had held in his hand all -the rope we were not using, dropped it in a big coil, and told me to -'Remain firm' where I was. He then climbed upwards for a few minutes, -but I did not watch, for though my head had not swum at all as yet, I -wasn't too sure of it, and the rock face was very sheer, so I neither -looked up nor down, but sat with my cheek against the rock and held on! -But all went merrily. Tavernaro occasionally placed one of my feet, -which was placeless, and we got up the first _camino_, or rocky chimney, -fairly well. 'Wait a moment, signorina,' said Bettega, and then he -disappeared overhead--literally disappeared, for he was quite hidden -when he cried cheerily, 'Come! Come!' I got up, and found a very small -_posto_ or tiny platform on which to wait, with a disagreeably obtrusive -precipice below it. Above was a second _camino_, which looked smooth and -gloomy. I leant affectionately against the rock, pondering deeply of -anything except 'empty space.' 'The signorina is all right there?' -enquired Bettega solicitously. 'To be sure she is!' cried Tavernaro -gaily, as he leant over me against the rock. Then up clomb Bettega, and -G---- advanced slowly and surely from below. As the minutes went by I -shut my eyes, and was gloomily thankful when the summons came from -above. Looking up, I could just see Bettega's bushy black head and -flannel cap couched amongst the rocks. Fifteen feet up the _camino_ a -big stone was wedged, and between this and the back of the chimney one -had to pass, emerging above at the top of the wall. G---- having now -reached the _posto_, I began to go up, with Tavernaro closely following -me. Bit by bit I climbed; a grab, a hoist, a foot tucked into a crevice -on either side of the _camino_, a long reach with my arm, a steady -pull--and likewise, it must be confessed, a pull from the rope!--and so -up, up again. The rock wall was abominably straight and holeless. Under -the stone, with the three members placed on ledges or in cracks, I in -vain sought a point of rest for the fourth before hauling. 'Good -heavens!' I exclaimed in melancholy undertones, and a gurgling chuckle -from below showed that Tavernaro sympathised. 'Here you are, signorina,' -he said, giving me his shoulder for a momentary foot-hold. With that -instant of support I swung up on to the stone, and so to the next _posto -sicuro_, or safe spot. G---- came up without help, but he assured me -that it was a really hard place. - -"Of course I don't pretend I did it all myself. Quite half a dozen times -I doubt if I could have got up without material aid from the cord, or -from Tavernaro below. Once, in a _camino_, the latter gave me a butt -with his head, which made me reflect how great a man was lost to the -game of football, while the way he placed my feet was a great help to -one who, as a novice, had not yet learnt to study the foot-holds in -advance. - -"We now reached a place where a third _camino_ ran up above us, while an -awkward traverse led to another on the right. Here I heard Tavernaro -remonstrate with Bettega on the route he had taken, but the latter said, -very decidedly, that he intended going straight on, so Tavernaro, as -usual, subsided, but became very quiet. He had never before ascended -this _camino_, which was a discovery of Bettega's, but no doubt he had -heard about it. - -"We began to climb it, Bettega first and I following him closely. It -had rained heavily the previous day, and all the loose stones had been -washed to the very edge of the ledges. Not having been cautioned about -these, and intent on getting up, I let several fall. 'Hi! Gently with -the stones!' gasped Tavernaro from below, and when he reached my side I -saw that his knuckles were bleeding. 'Have you hurt yourself?' I -enquired. 'No, it is you who have done it, and you've twice nearly -killed your brother,' he replied, but G---- told me to tell Tavernaro he -had sent down a much worse stone than any of mine, whereat he looked -resigned, and remarked, 'Oh, yes, these things can't always be avoided.' - -"'Stay quietly where you are, and wait till I tell you to come on,' -Bettega now remarked. I crouched in a very narrow chimney for a little, -watched not--a hundred pities--and heard Bettega go up beyond. Not more -than three minutes elapsed before his deep voice sang out: 'Now, come -up!' and though I replied: 'I'm coming,' I wondered how I was to do it. -We were near the top of the chimney. Further up, it became too narrow -for any human form to squeeze into. One had therefore to come out of it -to the right and climb up and over a huge bulging mass of rock about 15 -feet high, which overhung the precipice. This mass of gently bulging -rock was worn smooth by rain and stones. There was no proper foot-hold, -hardly the tiniest crack. _How_ had Bettega managed it? I got up the -cold, damp chimney as far as I could, leant gasping against the rock, -and felt near the end of my courage. Tavernaro was stowed away yards -below, G---- also out of sight, Bettega invisible above. There was just -the cord, pulling me away from the inhospitable rocks, and at my very -heels an abyss of 2000 feet. I made one bold grab on the smooth wall, -but speedily retired to the end of the _camino_, and feebly yelled, -'Wait! Ah, I can't do it!' 'All right! Catch hold of this cord!' came -the answer, and a loop of rope was let slowly down. I seized it, -contrived to get one foot on to a tiny, weeny point, came out of the -chimney, and heard Bettega call, 'To the right, signorina!' 'To the -right; that's all very well!' I muttered fiercely, and felt my hand -slipping; my foot gave, my fingers ran down the rope, the cord round my -waist tightened, I pushed my arm through the loop of the free rope with -one last effort, and then finding no support of any kind for my feet, -was ignominiously pulled, kicking, up the precipice by Bettega, who, -firmly fixed with both feet against rocks, hauled me up most joyously -hand over hand. - -"'But, Michele, how did _you_ manage to get up?' I panted, as I sank on -a ledge, and gazed in awed admiration at him. 'Well, not like that, -signorina!' he said, with his honest laugh; 'I really came up by -pressure. There are no hand-grips, so you have to do without.' 'It's -marvellous! It's stupendous!' murmured I, really awed by the man's -power. Then we both listened for Tavernaro's coming, and a proper little -comedy, for us two at least, ensued. Of course one could see nothing, -the rock bulged too much, but one could hear Tavernaro's voice some 20 -feet below, as he groped about, swearing softly. Five minutes went by -and all was still, so Bettega began haranguing him. 'More to the right, -Tony; you must come out, don't go too high in the chimney!' Then--'Look -out, Tony, I'll send you the rope-end!' But an ominous '_No_,' quickly -answered this proposal. A guide's honour is very sensitive on this -point. Another three or four minutes passed. 'How is Tavernaro getting -on?' I whispered, and Bettega replied, smiling broadly, 'He wishes to -try.' - -"Some gasps from the direction of the chimney were now heard, and -Bettega again expostulated gently. 'Look here, Tony, we are old friends; -take the rope!' '_No_' in gloomy defiance. 'Oh, if we were alone it -would be different, but we must not keep the rest of the party waiting, -and the signorina may take cold.' This was all in _patois_, but I caught -some of it, and here struck in quickly, 'Oh, not at all!' Bettega looked -surprised, and resumed more energetically his exhortations to Tony to -pocket his pride and accept the loop of rope. At last Tony, who must -have been within 10 feet of the top and so at the worst spot, suddenly -jerked on to the proffered cord, and was up the next moment, hatless, -with huge beads of sweat on his forehead and his black hair as straight -as matches. There was a great rent in the side of one of his hands, -which bled profusely. What struck me most, however, was the expression -of suffering and shaken confidence on his face. Tavernaro ranks only -second to Bettega and Zecchini, and was asked to go to the Caucasus and -other distant mountains. He just stumbled to a safe spot, wrung his left -hand, and panted out, 'Jesu Maria! it was cruel!' I fear that Bettega's -smile was more triumphant than sympathetic. Nevertheless, he enquired -kindly for Tavernaro's hand, but for fully two minutes the latter's -loquaciousness was lost. The look of anguish on his face meant, I think, -that he had seen death pretty near to him. He told us that he went far -too much into the crack on the left, and had remained sticking in it -till his hands got so cold he feared he would lose his grip. If he had, -he was lost, and probably G---- also, so he had actually held on with his -head and left his cap jammed in the crack. I called to G---- to hook the -rope over a point of rock in case Tavernaro fell, and this he had done, -but even so the frightful jerk might have torn him down, and in any -case Tavernaro must have been either killed or frightfully hurt, as he -had, I should think, about 30 feet of rope out. - -"While I was in the throes of the difficult part, Papa's cap fell off my -head, but Tavernaro caught it and brought it up. He was in an awful -state of mind about his own cap, which had his guide's badge, etc., on -it, and begged me to call down to my brother about it. I did so, but -G---- replied several times with some asperity that he had enough to do -to get himself up. 'Why can't he bring it up in his mouth?' cried -Tavernaro excitedly, and, in the end, G---- brought it in his belt. - -"My opinion is that both G---- and Tavernaro ran a great risk, and that -Tavernaro was fully aware of it, and, for a few minutes after, was not a -little shaken. - -"After half an hour at this notable spot Bettega resumed the ascent. 'I -hope we shall have nothing more so difficult,' I said eagerly, and -Bettega replied soothingly that it became 'much less arduous,' but the -chimney we were now in was gloomy and slippery, at best very sheer. The -guides had resumed their coats, which they had taken off for the bad -bit. At the end of the chimney we came to a high overhanging wall, at -the foot of which Tavernaro and I reposed, while Bettega climbed over it -and disappeared. 'Come!' and I rose wearily. Bettega kept that cord -very tight on me, and it certainly, as Tavernaro afterwards said, -inclined to pull me to the right, away from the best holds, for the wall -was comparatively easy, though perpendicular, and I ought not to have -swung out quite free from it! But that is what I did. As I rose from the -second grip with the right hand, my muscles suddenly relaxed, I lost -hold, gave a sigh to signify 'It's no good!' and swung clear out, -dangling over 2000 feet of precipice on a single cord which nearly cut -me in two. G---- and Tavernaro were much excited below, suddenly seeing -me appear hurtling overhead. Of course, in a moment, I swung in again, -grabbed afresh, and with terrific tightening of the rope from Bettega, -got up in no time. As I swung in the air, I remember G----, in a -curiously calm voice, asking, 'Are you all right?' and Tavernaro crying, -'Don't be afraid, signorina, it's all right!' - -"Five minutes later we left the huge iron walls of rock, and emerged -suddenly on to the flat. Here one realised what breadth and width meant, -as opposed to height and profundity. In two seconds Bettega and I romped -to the top, where the cairn of stones marking the highest point rose, -and shaking hands heartily I gasped with intense feeling, 'O Michele, -how grateful I am to you! Twice to-day I owe you my life!' a debt he -utterly disclaimed, remarking that whatever he had done was merely in -the day's work, and that on him rested the responsibility of bringing us -up that way; as of course it did. Our porter was waiting for us on the -summit, and we sat down there, while Bettega and Tavernaro, still -looking impressed, knelt attentively to take off our light shoes and put -on our nailed boots instead." - -The party descended by the ordinary route, a pleasant change after all -the difficult work they had accomplished during the upward climb. - -The foregoing account gives what is rare amongst the descriptions -beginners usually furnish of anything particularly hard they may have -undertaken, for the writer has obviously jotted down, within a few hours -of her return, an exact impression of how things struck her during the -day. It is refreshing to find some one who admits that at certain points -her courage nearly gave out, and at others that her guide had to assist -her with the rope, for we know that while the very best climbers have -had to train their nerves and muscles before they became what they are, -some of the very worst are most ready to exclaim that they never felt -fear or accepted assistance, and that a certain mountain up which they -were heaved like sacks of corn and let down like buckets in a well is "a -perfect swindle; any fool could go up it!" Unluckily, every fool does, -and each one prepares the way for an appallingly increasing death-roll. - -The ascent of the Rosetta by the western face must not be condemned as -an imprudent expedition on the occasion just mentioned. True, there was -a novice in the party, but she was the only inexperienced member of it. -They had ample guiding power, they were properly equipped, and they had -good weather. Tavernaro had an offer of help at the critical moment, and -availed himself of it when he saw there was real danger. It will be -noticed that the four climbers were on two separate ropes. This is usual -in the Dolomites, but the majority of experienced mountaineers condemn -the practice even on rocks, while on snow it is positive madness. It was -owing to this, that, as related in the foregoing narrative, the lady's -brother and Tavernaro ran a greater risk than was at all necessary. - -[Illustration: A CLIMBING PARTY STARTING FROM ZERMATT FOR THE HUT.] - -[Illustration: THE TRIFT HOTEL.] - -[Illustration: THE GANDEGG HUT, NEAR ZERMATT.] - -[Illustration: THE ZINAL ROTHHORN (to the right) FROM THE TRIFT VALLEY. - -_To face p. 195._] - - - - -CHAPTER XII - -THE ZINAL ROTHHORN TWICE IN ONE DAY - - -Ignorance of what the future has in store is often not a bad thing. Had -I realised that at the hour when we ought to have been at Zinal we -should be sitting--and for the second time in one day--on the top of the -Rothhorn, we should hardly have set out in so light-hearted a fashion -from the little inn in the Trift Valley, above Zermatt, at 4 A.M. on -14th September 1895. - -The party consisted of my two guides, Joseph and Roman Imboden, father -and son, and myself, and our idea was to cross the fine peak of the -Rothhorn, 13,855 feet high, from Zermatt to Zinal. I had been up that -mountain before, and so, on many previous occasions, had Imboden, but, -oddly enough, he had never been down the other side. Roman, however, had -once or twice made the traverse, and, in any case, we knew quite enough -about the route from hearsay to feel sure we could hit it off even -without Roman's experience. - -Some fresh snow had fallen a few days previously, and the slabby part -of the Rothhorn on the north side was unpleasantly white, besides which -there was a strong and bitterly cold wind. We pretty well abandoned all -idea of getting down on the other side when we saw how unfavourably -things were turning out, and though I felt greatly disappointed I never -have and never would urge a guide in whom I have confidence to undertake -what he considers imprudent. We left the matter open till the last -minute, however, and took both the knapsacks to the top, where we -arrived at 9.15. - -Warming ourselves in a sunny and sheltered corner of the by no means -inhospitable summit, we had some food and a pleasant rest. I cannot say -if the meal and the cheering effects of the sunshine made things look -different, but it is a fact that after, perhaps, an hour's halt, Imboden -shouldered his knapsack and remarked to me, "Come along, ma'am, as far -as the end of the ridge; we will just have a look." Hope awakened in me, -and scrambling to my feet I followed him. The wind was certainly high; I -had difficulty even on those easy rocks in keeping my footing; how, I -wondered, should we manage when the real climbing began? I had read of -an _arete_ of rock, little broader than one of the blunt knives we had -used at breakfast, and the idea of passing along it with a shrieking -gale trying to tear us from our perch was not alluring. Presently we -reached the spot where one quits the gentle slope and comparatively -broad ridge, and embarks on the profile of a slender and precipitous -face of rock, with nearly vertical forehead and small and infrequent -cracks for hands and feet. We were going to do more than look at it, -apparently; we were about to descend it, for without any further remark -Imboden began to get ready, letting Roman pass ahead. Taking hold of the -rope between his son and himself he told me to stand aside while he -gradually paid it out as Roman went down. The first yard or two -consisted of slabs, set at a high angle. Then the ridge abruptly curved -over and one saw nothing but air till the eye rested on the glacier -thousands of feet below. In a few minutes Roman had disappeared, and the -steady paying out of the rope alone indicated that he was climbing -downwards. After a time he reached almost the end of his tether of about -30 feet--for we were on a very long rope--and his father called out, -"Rope up!" "Let the lady come to the edge and give me a little more," -came a voice from far down. Putting the final loop into my hand and -bidding me sit down, Imboden held me hard by the cord behind until the -tautness of the piece between Roman and me showed it was time to be -moving. I then advanced very cautiously to what seemed like the edge of -the world. Turning round with my face to the rock I had my first glance -below. Far down was the top of Roman's hat, and as he saw the advancing -soles of my boots he grinned with appreciation, feeling that now we -really were embarked on the enterprise. "There's a good place down here, -ma'am, come along!" he called up, with one toe on a ledge 3 inches wide, -two fingers thrust into a crack, and the rope held out of his way by -being put, the remark concluded, between his teeth. I had no doubt it -was a nice place when one got there, but meanwhile I had to make the -best use I could of my eyes to find a suitable assortment of hand-and -foot-holes. Soon I, too, was clinging to the face of the precipice, and -Imboden was left above out of sight and before long almost out of -hearing. The wind here was far less trying as we were sheltered by the -topmost pinnacle of the mountain. To me the feeling of danger from a -gale on a rock peak is due even more to the difficulty of hearing what -one's companions are saying than to the risk of one's balance being -upset. It is extremely disconcerting, when a climber, descending steep -rocks and anxious to make a long but perhaps an easy step downwards to -good foot-hold, calls for more rope, and is promptly swung clear out -into space by an invisible guide above, who has misunderstood his -orders. When a party is accustomed to work together, this sort of thing -seldom happens, still it makes all the difference in the pleasure of -negotiating difficult rocks if the air is calm. - -Our only trouble now was owing to the fresh snow, but this had partially -consolidated, and we got down steadily and safely, gradually leaving -behind the cold wind which whistled amongst the crags above. - -It was early in the day, and we went slowly, stopping once or twice to -photograph where warm and sheltered resting-places of comfortable -proportions tempted us to linger. The rocky knife edge was unpleasantly -sharp for the arms bent over it, but useful ledges down the side helped -to distribute the weight and amuse and occupy the mind. When finally we -reached the end of the rocks, and had nothing but snow between us and -the Mountet Hut, we considered ourselves as good as there, and made a -long halt on the last stones. - -We were wrong, however. "My boy, I will go ahead now," remarked Imboden, -stepping off into the snow. He went a few paces, and then looked first -all round him and lastly at us. "_Blue ice!_" he muttered, with intense -disgust. "Blue ice right down to the bottom!" We shrugged our shoulders; -Imboden was ahead doing the work; we could afford to be philosophical. I -should not like to say how many strokes of the axe each step required, -but the slope was steep, a slip could not be risked, and Imboden hewed -out great foot-holds in the slippery wall. After this had gone on for -some time he paused. "Upon my word," remarked he, "it will take us the -rest of the day to get down at this rate! I shall try another way." So -we turned and remounted the slope, and sitting down once more on the -stones, Imboden traced out a possible route down the face of the -mountain, bearing diagonally across it. It looked dullish; besides, -thought I, after all, we don't particularly want to go to Zinal. Roman -put into words what, I think, sprung simultaneously into both our minds. -"Let us go back to Zermatt over the top of the Rothhorn again!" "Yes, -let us do that!" I exclaimed. Imboden gazed from one to the other of us -in amazement. "Go back over the top of the Rothhorn?" he repeated. "Why, -we should simply be out all night!" Roman didn't answer, but his eyes -wandered persistently up the _arete_. His father now began to calculate, -and by some strange process of arithmetic he came to the conclusion that -if we hurried very much it was just possible that we might get off the -difficult part of the peak before night overtook us. Still, he was far -from reconciled to the idea, while every moment Roman and I liked it -better. Imboden saw how keen we were, and presently exclaimed: "Well, -I'll go if you both want it, but we must be quick; if we spend the night -on the top of the Rothhorn and a storm comes on, we may simply lose our -lives!" There was no need however, to tell Roman to be quick. He was -told off to lead, and I followed, with Imboden last. The memory of that -ascent has remained in my mind as a confused dream. Every scrap of my -attention was given to holding on and pulling myself upwards, never -pausing, except in the very worst places, to see what either of the -guides was doing, and, with every foot-and hand-hold fresh in my memory, -I was full of a delightful sense of security which muscles in -first-class condition and complete absence of any sensation of fatigue -fully justified. We rose at an incredible pace, and after an hour and -twenty-five minutes of splendid exercise, we threw ourselves once more -on the flat little top of the Rothhorn. We had now only the descent by -the ordinary route between us and Zermatt, and this seemed a small -matter compared to what we had accomplished that day. - -We did not remain long on the summit, and the first part of the descent -was quickly ended. We had now reached that point on the mountain where -it is necessary to leave the ridge and go down for some distance on the -precipitous north face. This bit of the climb, always requiring great -care on account of the smoothness and steepness of the rock, was on this -occasion particularly difficult because of the powdery snow which -covered everything, and the bitterly cold wind to which here, and, -luckily for us, here only, we were exposed. The associations of these -slabs are not of a nature to reassure the timid climber. Many years ago, -in fact on the very first occasion when the Rothhorn was ascended from -the Zermatt side, a startling incident took place near this spot. The -party consisted of Messrs Dent and Passingham, with Alexander Burgener, -Ferdinand Imseng, and Franz Andermatten as guides, and they were -descending the mountain when the exciting occurrence described by Mr -Dent happened.[7] He has kindly allowed me to reprint his account. - -[Illustration: THE ZINAL ROTHHORN FROM THE BREAKFAST PLACE ON THE -WELLENKUPPE.] - -[Illustration: A STEEP FACE OF ROCK. - -_To face p. 202._] - -[Illustration: THE TOP OF A CHAMONIX AIGUILLE. By Signor Cajrati -Crivelli Mesmer] - -[Illustration: "LEADING STRINGS."] - -"Down the first portion of the steep rock slope we passed with great -caution, some of the blocks of stone being treacherously loose, or only -lightly frozen to the face. We had arrived at the most difficult part of -the whole climb, and at a rock passage which at that time we considered -was the nastiest we had ever encountered. The smooth, almost unbroken -face of the slope scarcely afforded any foot-hold, and our security -almost entirely depended on the rope we had laid down in our ascent. Had -not the rope been in position we should have varied our route, and no -doubt found a line of descent over this part much easier than the one we -actually made for, even without any help from the fixed cord. Imseng was -far below, working his way back to the _arete_, while the rest of the -party were holding on, moving but slowly, with their faces to the -mountain. Suddenly I heard a shout from above; those below glanced up at -once: a large flat slab of rock, that had afforded us good hold in -ascending, but proved now to have been only frozen in to a shallow basin -of ice, had been dislodged by the slightest touch from one of the party -above, and was sliding down straight at us. It seemed an age, though the -stone could not have had to fall more than 10 feet or so, before it -reached us. Just above me it turned its course slightly; Franz, who was -just below, more in its direct line of descent, attempted to stop the -mass, but it ground his hands against the rock and swept by straight at -Imseng. A yell from us hardly awoke him to the danger; the slab slid on -faster and faster, but just as we expected to see our guide swept away, -the rock gave a bound for the first time, and as, with a startled -expression, he flung himself against the rock face, it leapt up, and, -flying by within a few inches of his head, thundered down below. A -moment or two of silence followed, and then a modified cheer from -Imseng, as subdued as that of a 'super' welcoming a theatrical king, -announced his safety, and he looked up at us with a serious expression -on his face. Franz's escape had been a remarkably lucky one, but his -hands were badly cut about and bruised. In fact, it was a near thing for -all of us, and the mere recollection will still call up that odd sort of -thrill a man experiences on suddenly recollecting at 11 P.M. that he -ought to have dined out that evening with some very particular people. -Had not the rock turned its course just before it reached Franz, and -bounded from the face of the mountain over Imseng's head, one or more of -the party must unquestionably have been swept away. The place was rather -an exceptional one, and the rock glided a remarkably long distance -without a bound, but still the incident may serve to show that falling -stones are not a wholly imaginary danger." - -A far more serious occurrence, however, took place on the north side of -the Rothhorn in 1894, involving the loss of a life, the rest of the -party escaping in a miraculous manner. - -I take my account of the disaster from _The Alpine Journal_. - -"On 20th September an accident occurred on the Zinal Rothhorn, in which -Joseph Marie Biner, a well-known Zermatt guide, lost his life. The other -members of the party were Dr Peter Horrocks and Peter Perren, both of -whom are to be congratulated on their very narrow escape. The party had -already effected the ascent of the mountain, and were descending towards -Zermatt. On reaching the well-known _Blatte_ overlooking the Durand -Glacier, the usual precautions were observed. Biner, who was leading, -crossed the awkward slab, and planted himself firmly on the opposite -side. Perren, who was last, was standing behind and holding on to a -fair-sized rock, round which he was paying out the rope; while Dr -Horrocks crossed the slab, and Biner gradually pulled in the slack. -Suddenly, the rock in which Perren placed such confidence came out, and -bounded down the mountain side. Perren slid rapidly down the steep -rocks; Dr Horrocks, who had no foot-hold and very little hand-hold, was -jerked from his position, turning a somersault, and becoming momentarily -stunned from his head striking against the rock. The strain on the rope -was too great for Biner to withstand, and he was dragged down too. The -whole party half tumbled, half slid, down the very steep smooth rocks -for 30 feet or 40 feet, when the rope between Dr Horrocks and Perren -caught behind a projecting rock, and brought them both to a standstill. -Perren found himself landed in a small patch of soft snow some 15 feet -below the rock, which had so fortunately engaged the rope, while Dr -Horrocks, some 7 feet higher up, though at first suspended with his back -to the steep rocks, was very soon able to get more or less foot-hold. -Poor Biner had the extra length of his own rope still to fall, and, when -the strain came, the rope broke, according to one account, half-way -between him and Dr Horrocks; according to another, rather nearer to the -latter. Biner fell down on to the Durand Glacier, some 2000 feet below, -whence his mutilated body was recovered by a search party which crossed -the Trift Pass, carried the body down to Zinal, and so by road and train -brought it to Zermatt, where the funeral took place. Dr Horrocks and -Perren were rescued from their dangerous position some ten or twelve -minutes after the accident occurred, by the guides Emile Gentinetta and -Edouard Julen, who were following down the mountain with another party." - -To return to ourselves. We steadily progressed down the cold and snowy -face, with rope kept taut and paid out slowly as, one by one, we moved -lower. I need not follow our climb, which was without incident, and -while it was still daylight, we reached the snow ridge, on the stones -just below, which in ascending it is usual to pause for breakfast. We -were particularly anxious to be off the stony rocks below and to gain -the little glacier and pass over the moraine before dark, but this we -could not manage, so in spite of our lantern we wandered about on those -odious rocks for hours before we found the gully by which alone it is -possible to get off them. Our various attempts entailed the descent of -slippery chimneys leading to the top of black precipices, with nothing -to be done but scramble up again, merely to embark in other chimneys -with precisely similar consequences. I got so sick of the whole thing -that I would gladly have dozed under a rock and awaited daylight. The -guides, however, stuck to the business, and after a positive nightmare -of gullies they at last hit off the right and only one. I have seldom -felt greater satisfaction than when I stepped off those detestable rocks -on to the snow, shimmering beneath our feet in the starlight. We had now -only to cross the glacier and make our way down an exceedingly steep but -well-defined foot-path over the sharply-crested moraine. Once we had -left this behind us we had nothing more than grass-slopes between us and -the Trift Inn. As soon as we reached this final stage in our day's work, -we selected the most comfortable-looking hollow, and hanging the lantern -to an axe stuck upright in the ground, we prepared, at a somewhat -unorthodox hour and within only thirty minutes of the hotel, to enjoy a -well-earned meal. - - - - -CHAPTER XIII - -BENIGHTED ON A SNOW PEAK - - -In a most interesting account of a mountain adventure which, by the -courtesy of the writer, Sir H. Seymour King, I am enabled to reprint -from _The Alpine Journal_, we are once more reminded that a party of -thoroughly competent and robust mountaineers can come without evil -after-effects out of a night of great hardship which would have -undoubtedly proved fatal to ill-equipped and inexperienced amateurs and -guides, such as those accompanying Mr Burckhardt, who perished from -exposure on the Matterhorn.[8] - -After describing a previous ascent, Sir H. Seymour King goes on to say: - -"A few days later we went to Muerren, with the intention of carrying out -a long-cherished plan of mine and testing the possibility of ascending -the Silberhorn from the Roththal. Previous ascents had proved so -lengthy, necessitating, I think, in nearly every case, the passing of a -night on the rocks or the glacier, that I thought it would be highly -desirable if some shorter route could be discovered. I had an idea that -the route by the western _arete_ would prove to be the one sought for. -Unfortunately, we were delayed in making an attempt by bad weather until -the 23rd of September, which is undoubtedly too late in the year for so -difficult an expedition. - -"I left the Hotel Silberhorn with Ambrose Supersax and Louis Zurbruecken -as guides, and a porter, at ten o'clock on the morning of the 23rd of -September, and followed for some distance the usual path to the Jungfrau -Hut; at length, leaving the Roththal path on the right, we struck off -into a goat track, which leads by narrow ledges round the shoulder of -the great bluffs forming the northern boundary of the Roththal. In this -way gaining the face of the alp fronting Muerren, we made our way to the -base of the 'Strahlplatten,' where we had determined to encamp for the -night. - -"The nights were already lengthening out, and where we were it was not -light before six, and it was not possible to move earlier than five; -punctually at that hour we started. We took only one knapsack with us, -leaving the rest of the things with the porter, whom we instructed to -stay where he was until he saw whether we were going to return the same -way or not, as we thought it was quite possible we might have to pass -another night at the same place. We therefore arranged with him that -when we got to a certain point on the ridge, if we intended to return, -we would wave our hats; but if we made no sign, he might pack up his -things and go home, as in that case he might understand that we had -determined either to descend from the Silberhorn across the glacier to -the Wengern Alp, or else make our way over the Jungfrau, and pass the -night in the Bergli Hut. - -"Now let me try for a moment to describe the appearance of the rock face -up which we purposed making our way on to the _arete_. From where we -were the _arete_ appeared to run nearly due east and west. At the west -it terminated in the precipices which face Muerren, and at the east with -the peak whence we had arranged to signal to our porter. From this peak -a ridge descended towards the valley bounding the side facing us. On -that side the rock face itself was divided into two compartments by a -well-marked ridge running down the middle, giving the appearance of two -couloirs leading to the _arete_; the whole side was composed of -extremely smooth rocks, with very little foot-hold or hand-hold which -would be extremely dangerous, if not impossible, to attempt, if they -were not dry. Fortunately, we found them perfectly free from either -water or ice, and, with the exception of one difficult piece, which it -took us some little time to surmount, we found nothing to check us -until we were just under the _arete_. We ascended by the right-hand -couloir, if I may so term it, and then made for the gap on the ridge at -the extreme westerly end. Just below this gap we experienced some -difficulty, owing to the excessive smoothness of the rocks, but finally -reached the gap I have mentioned a little before nine. - -"I need not say that our hopes rose high, and that we were in the very -best of spirits, and when we finally stood in the gap itself we began to -think the worst part of the work was over. We soon found, however, that -it had hardly begun; it was all very well being in the gap, but the -problem was how to get from there on to the _arete_ itself; for, though -the latter was not more than 20 feet above us, the peculiar formation of -the rocks rendered every attempt to get on to it fruitless. The rocks -hung over on every side. We exhausted ourselves in vain attempts to -surmount them. An hour soon passed away, and after each of us in turn -had failed, we sat down disconsolately to consider the situation under -the lee of the ridge, so as to be out of the way of the biting north -wind which was blowing. Looking round as we sat mournfully consuming -some breakfast, I spied a bottle in a crevice, and found it contained -the names of Mr C. E. Matthews and Herr E. von Fellenberg, with -Melchior Anderegg and two other guides; it was undated, but recounted -how they had reached this spot and had been obliged to return without -achieving their object, which apparently was identical with our own. -This was the last straw, and exasperated Ambrose to the highest degree. -That we should have gone through so much only to have gained the same -spot where another party several years before had arrived was too much -for his equanimity. He vowed he would never go back, and nothing under -heaven should turn him back, he would get on to the ridge. We might do -as we liked, he meant to stay there until he had. All of which I pointed -out to him was very fine talk, but, as men were at present constructed, -it did not appear to me possible to climb an acute angle. Ambrose, -however, persisted that he would make another attempt to get on to the -ridge, and, as it was quite hopeless anywhere on the side by which we -had ascended, he roped himself, and insisted on being let down the -northern face of the mountain. - -"With great skill he managed to work himself along the face for the full -length of the rope, and the first 100 feet being exhausted, a second of -80 feet was tied to it, and this again paid out to its utmost length; -still he could find no way up to the ridge. He thereupon demanded that -the rope should be let go, and, in spite of our remonstrances at the -danger he was running, he pulled it in, slung it on his back, and -proceeded, while we sat down and waited with no little anxiety lest some -accident should befall him. - -"For half an hour we neither saw nor heard anything of him, and our -shouts remained unanswered. Zurbruecken muttered at intervals something -about 'Dummheit,' and was evidently very uneasy. Suddenly we heard a -shout from above, which told us he had succeeded in ascending the wall -above him, and getting on to the ridge, down which he was actually -coming at the moment, and the next minute he was peering over the point -where we had been stuck. - -"It was really a magnificent exhibition both of pluck and skill, and -Ambrose deserves the highest credit for his success. Letting the rope -over, and fastening it well to a piece of rock, he first hauled up the -ice axes and knapsacks, and then we each in turn were half hauled, and -half climbed to the place where he stood. I know when I arrived at the -top I was nearly speechless from the terrible exertion it was necessary -to make, and the pressure of the rope on my ribs; I could only lie on my -back and gasp feebly for brandy! - -"However, it was imperative to proceed; more than two hours had been -wasted here, and it was nearly eleven o'clock. The way in front of us -looked fairly plain and easy, and our hopes once again began to rise; -but soon, as we proceeded along the ridge, it became narrower and -narrower, until from walking we were reduced to kneeling, and at last -could only proceed _a cheval_; in this elegant position we struggled -along for some little distance, until the _arete_ widening out again -permitted us once more to stand up; but here we found the rocks much -more difficult, and finally absolutely impossible. At the foot of the -peak at the easterly end of the ridge which I have before mentioned we -were forced off the _arete_ on to a wall of ice which led to the summit; -the slope was at a very sharp angle, the ice very hard and blue, and at -last became so steep that we were forced back on to the rocks, and with -some considerable difficulty reached the summit; from there we could see -the Silberhorn in front of us jutting out like a great white promontory -into a frozen sea. It being then one o'clock, we saw there was no -possibility of our getting back the same way that evening, so we made no -sign to our porter, whom we could see watching us far down below. - -"The formation of the ridge here is somewhat curious. After a slight -descent it broadens out into a small and much crevassed glacier, shut in -on the further side by a level snow wall, the promontory which I have -mentioned above. The _arete_ of this wall appears to run level from the -rock ridge to its northern termination; indeed, I am of opinion that the -highest point is on the rock ridge itself, and that the extreme end of -the ridge facing the Wengern Alp is a few feet lower than the rocks -overlooking the Roththal. - -"We speedily crossed the little intervening glacier, or snow-field, and -commenced to ascend diagonally the snow wall, but found the snow in such -a dangerous condition, lying as it was loosely on the surface of ice, -that from the fear of starting an avalanche we once more made our way -back to the ridge which formed the continuation of the _arete_ along -which we had been climbing. Here the rocks were extremely difficult, -being interspersed with ice and very rotten. I think this was one of the -most difficult parts of the expedition. It was half-past three when we -reached the final summit, and then made our way along the snow ridge -nearly to its extremity. The snow _arete_ was very narrow, and in its -then condition not very pleasant to traverse; the day too was far -advanced, and we had no time to spend in much exploration, so we -returned as quickly as we could to the ridge which leads down to the -Silberluecke; we were already getting very doubtful as to whether we -should get any shelter for the night. We had reached the narrow rock -_arete_ joining the Silberhorn with the precipices of the Jungfrau; in -the middle was the narrow gap called the Silberluecke, and to that we -crawled down and halted a moment to consider whether it would not be -better to descend on to the glacier and strike across to the Wengern -Alp; but we knew from the results of previous expeditions that crossing -the glacier would probably take four, if not five hours. None of us had -ever been across it; it was then four o'clock, and it would be dark at -six. Our only hope lay in getting across the Jungfrau before the -daylight finally died out. In the gap we found a ladder left by some -previous explorer, and two or three pieces of wood; and after debating -whether we had not better pass the night there, finally decided to push -on for the Jungfrau. - -"Our chance of escaping a night in the open air depended mainly on two -points: first, whether the snow leading to the Jungfrau was in fairly -good condition; and, secondly, whether anybody whose steps we could make -use of for descending had been on the mountain that day. A few minutes -settled the first question; we found that the slopes leading up to the -upper snow-field which circles round the base of the Jungfrau were hard -as ice, and we were soon laboriously cutting steps upwards. We pushed on -with all speed, but step-cutting is at the best a slow operation, and -before we got into the Roththal track the lengthening shadows had almost -overtaken us. We hurried on and managed to get across the _bergschrund_ -before the last rays of sunlight left the summit of the Jungfrau. As we -surmounted the final rocks I turned for a minute to look across -Switzerland, and was rewarded by one of the most beautiful spectacles it -has ever been my good fortune to witness. The valleys were filled with -mist, but the setting sun tinged their surface with a deep crimson glow; -the last rays were still lingering round Mont Blanc and one or two of -the higher mountains; where we stood was still filled with golden light -from the last rays of the sinking sun. The sky was perfectly clear, and -the panorama which unrolled itself before our eyes with its mingled -light and shadow was one of the most wonderful that lover of mountain -scenery could desire to gaze on. A justification for the erection of a -hut on the summit of the Jungfrau might almost be found in the -possibility of obtaining such a view. - -"But we had no time for indulging in rhapsodies; a bitter north wind was -still blowing so keenly, that the upper leather of our boots had frozen -stiff as boards while we walked. The moon was well up, and if only our -second hope were realised, and some one had been on the mountain that -day, we might find a refuge from the wind in the Bergli or Concordia -Huts. We tumbled rather than scrambled down the rocks by the flickering -moonlight, until we reached the well-known point where it is necessary -to strike across the face just above the Roththal Sattel. Our last hope -was dashed to the ground. No one had been there that day, and if we were -to get down it must be by our own efforts. So Ambrose at once set to -work to cut steps across the face. We had been there a fortnight before, -and gone up and down the Jungfrau without cutting hardly a step; now the -face was all blue ice, and in five minutes I made up my mind that the -risk of such a descent was too much to take. - -"The wall above the great _bergschrund_ was in shadow, the _bergschrund_ -last year was especially formidable, and we were all too exhausted -safely to face the freezing wind on such a steep ice-slope in the dark. -We returned, therefore, to the rocks, and, after a brief consultation, -decided to pass the night there as best we could. We managed to find a -corner shut in on two sides by rock about 5 feet high, from the floor of -which we set to work to rake out the snow with our axes. The snow had -drifted to a considerable depth, and its excavation gave us a good -quantity of heat to start the night with, but our boots refused to thaw, -and do what we would our feet would not get warm. - -"Our provisions being nearly exhausted, we agreed only to take a -mouthful of brandy and a little bread that night, and keep the bulk of -the provisions until next morning, when we expected to be in a more or -less exhausted condition, as the cold was very great, and it was obvious -that we had a pretty severe ordeal before us. It was by this time -half-past seven o'clock. We put on our gloves and gaiters, buttoned up -our coats, and after making a seat apiece out of three smooth stones, -sat down as close together as we could, and commenced to smoke. - -"The night was beautifully clear, but far away to the south we could see -a great thunderstorm raging over the Italian hills, and were in no -little trepidation lest it should be coming up in our direction, as -indeed a storm had done in exactly a similar way a week before; but the -north wind kept it at bay, and we luckily had not a snow-storm to face -in addition to the other discomforts. - -"The night passed slowly enough; it was necessary to keep shuffling our -feet and beating our arms together the whole night long without -cessation, in order to prevent being frost-bitten, and it was even more -difficult to keep awake. The hours, however, passed somehow, and at -half-past four the first primrose streaks in the sky heralded the coming -day. By five o'clock the welcome face of the sun peeped over the -Trugberg, and we began to prepare for a start. - -"Our first thought was breakfast, but this solace was denied us; the -wine and brandy had frozen during the night, and were solid lumps of -ice; the bread required nothing less than an ice-axe to cut it, and then -probably would have flown into chips like a log of wood; the three -remaining eggs we possessed had been converted during the night into -icicles; there was nothing for it, therefore, but to start hungry and -thirsty. Ambrose proposed that he and Zurbruecken should first cut the -steps, and then come back for me, but after a very few minutes' exposure -to the wind they were obliged to return and wait until the sun had -warmed them a little, the biting cold of the night and exhaustion from -want of sleep rendered it impossible to face the work of step-cutting in -such a bitter wind. We resumed our seats, therefore, and waited another -hour, and then commenced our descent to the _bergschrund_. We had to cut -steps the whole way down, and very glad I was we had not attempted it in -the dark, as I think it would have been almost impossible to get over -without an accident. - -"We pushed on steadily, but the night had taken all the spurt out of us, -and our progress across the Jungfrau Firn was not very rapid. We hoped -to find water under the Moench Joch, where we had found a good supply a -fortnight previously, but the wind had prevented the snow melting at the -time we reached the spot, and there was nothing for it but to press on -to Grindelwald, and it was not until we reached the end of the Viescher -Glacier that we found any water to drink. At the Baeregg we got some -ginger nuts to eat, and by three o'clock in the afternoon were being -hospitably welcomed by the Bosses at the 'Baer,' whose welcome was never -more appreciated. These estimable hosts soon had an excellent dinner -ready, and by half-past four I was driving to Interlaken to rejoin the -rest of my party." - - - - -CHAPTER XIV - -THE STORY OF A BIG JUMP - - -Through the kindness of Dr Kennedy, I am enabled to reprint from his new -edition of _The Alps in 1864_, by the late Mr A. W. Moore, an admirable -account of the first passage of the Col de la Pilatte in Dauphine. This -expedition has become classical, thanks to Mr Whymper's fine description -of it,[9] so it is interesting to read what impression the adventures of -the day made on another member of the party. The first part of the -expedition was easy, but, wrote Mr Moore, "before getting near the foot -of the couloir, we had something to do in threading a way up and through -the huge chasms into which the glacier was broken. Croz was here -thoroughly in his element, and led the way with great skill and -determination, passing one obstacle after another, and bearing gradually -to the left towards the enemy. At every step we took, it became more -apparent that nature had never intended any one to pass this way, and -had accordingly taken more than usual pains to render the approach to -the couloir difficult and dangerous. Below the highest _bergschrund_ -were a series of smaller ones, arranged systematically one above the -other, stretching completely across a very steep slope, so that they -could not be turned, but must each in succession be attacked _en face_. -Fortunately at this early period of the season, and with so much snow, -the difficulty was less considerable than it would have been under other -circumstances, and, exercising every precaution, we finally passed the -last of the outer lines of defence, and had nothing but a short steep -slope between us and the final _schrund_, above which the couloir rose -more unfriendly than ever, as we approached it nearer. I had been sorely -puzzled in my mind how we were going to get across this chasm, as from -below it appeared to have a uniform width of about 10 feet, the upper -edge, as usual, much higher than the lower, and no visible bridge at any -point. On getting up to it, however, we found that on the extreme right -it had been choked by a considerable mass of snow, the small remains of -which at one point formed a narrow, rotten, and most insecure bridge, -over which Croz cautiously passed, and made himself firm in the soft -snow above. Walker, Whymper, Mons. Renaud, myself, and Almer, then -followed, as if we were treading on eggs, and all got safely over, much -to our relief, as there really appeared no small chance of the bridge -going to grief before we were all across, which would have been awkward -for those on the wrong side. - -"It was just 9.30 when we fairly took to this extraordinary gully, -which, above the _bergschrund_ was certainly not more than 12 feet wide, -and gradually narrowed in its upward course. For the first few steps we -trod in a sufficiency of soft snow in good condition, but, to our -dismay, this soon sensibly diminished both in quantity and quality, -until at last there was nothing but the old, disgusting, powdery snow -resting on hard ice. The axe accordingly came into play; but if steps -were cut of the ordinary size, we should never get to the top till -night, so Croz just hacked out sufficient space for the feet to cling -to, and worked away as fast as possible, cautioning us emphatically to -look out, and to hold on well with our axes while each step was being -cut. Another argument in favour of rapid progress arose from the -palpable danger in which we were. The centre of the couloir was occupied -by a deeply-scored trough, evidently a channel for stones and -avalanches, while the space on either side was so narrow that in case of -a large fall we could scarcely expect to escape unharmed. Looking up to -see what was likely to come down, we discovered at the very head of the -couloir a perpendicular or slightly overhanging wall of _neve_, some 30 -feet in height, and lower down, projecting over the rocks on our left, -an enormous mass of icicles, on which the sun was playing, and, of -course, momentarily loosening their tenure to the rocks. At the moment -we were exactly in the line which they must follow, if they fell, as -they evidently would before long, so we lost no time in crossing the -stone channel to the other side, where the great mass was scarcely -likely to come, and we might probably ward off any stray fragments. I -received a lively hint as to the effect of a _large_ mass of ice coming -suddenly down on one's head, by the effect of a blow from a -comparatively small piece, which Croz hewed out from one of the steps. -Being so far down in the line, it had time to gain momentum before it -struck me, which it did on the head with such violence that for a few -moments I felt quite sick and stupid. The incident will give a very good -idea of the steepness of the slope on which we were. I had too much to -think of to measure it with a clinometer, but it was certainly steeper -than any part of the couloir leading to the Col des Ecrins, the greatest -inclination of which was 54 deg.. At one point a little water trickled over -the rocks, which the two front men managed to get a suck at, but those -behind were out of reach, and the footing was too precarious for more -than a minute's halt, not to mention occasional volleys of small stones -which shot by us, and might be the precursors of large ones. I don't -think that I ever experienced a greater feeling of insecurity than -during the whole of this ascent, which was unavoidably long. What with -the extreme steepness of the slope, and the necessary vagueness of the -steps, which were made additionally unsafe by the powdery snow which -filled them up as soon as they were cut, I felt that a slip was a by no -means unlikely contingency, and was glad enough upon occasions to find -Almer's hand behind, giving me a friendly push whenever a particularly -long stride had to be made. When we were nearing the top, our attention -was attracted by a tremendous uproar behind us, and, looking round, we -were just in time to see a prodigious avalanche falling over the cliffs -of the Pic de Bonvoisin, on the other side of the valley. It was at -least a quarter of a mile in length, and many minutes elapsed before the -last echoes of its fall died away. We were now so near the great -snow-wall that it was time to begin to circumvent it; so, crossing the -couloir again, we clambered up the rocks on that side in order to get -out of it, hoping to be able from them to get on to the main ridge to -the left of the wall, which itself was quite impassable. As Almer had -expected, the snow was here very thin over the rocks, and what little -there was, was converted into ice, so that the climbing was most -difficult and perilous, and we had no small trouble to get on at all. -However, we managed to scramble up, and found ourselves overlooking a -gully running parallel, and of a similar character, to the one we had -been ascending, but free from snow and ice, and much more precipitous. -On our side it was quite impossible to get on to the main ridge as an -impracticable rock rose above our heads, and it was, therefore, -necessary to step across this second couloir. I never made a nastier -step; the stride was exceedingly long, there was nothing in particular -to stand on, and nothing at all but a smooth face of rock to hold on by, -so that we had literally to trust to the natural adhesiveness of our -hands. Fortunately, there was sufficient rope to allow the man in front -to cross and get on to the main ridge, and make himself fast before his -successor followed, so we attacked the difficulty in turn. I got over -somehow, but did not like it at all; lifted myself on to the ridge, -Almer followed, and at 10.45 A.M., the Col was gained. - -"During our ascent of the couloir, the weather, though doubtful, had not -been unfavourable, but, just as we got on to the ridge, a cloud swooped -down, and enveloped us in its dense folds, and at the same moment it -began to snow violently. Luckily Croz, who was first on the top, had -been able to satisfy himself that we _were_ above the Glacier de la -Pilatte, and got a glimpse of what lay between us and it; but the state -of the atmosphere was, nevertheless, sufficiently disappointing, as we -were unable to fix with accuracy the exact position of our gap with -reference to the peak of Les Bans, and the highest point of the Boeufs -Rouges, or to determine its height. From the Breche de la Meije, we had -seen clearly that we were then considerably lower than any point on the -ridge south of the Glacier de la Pilatte, and, taking this into -consideration, together with the apparent height of our gap, seen from -the valley below, we estimated the height of the Col, which we proposed -to call Col de la Pilatte, at about 11,500 feet. It is certainly not -much below this, and is, therefore, probably the highest pass yet -effected in the Dauphine Alps. - -[Illustration: A VERY TAME BERGSCHRUND. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: HOMEWARD OVER THE SNOW-SLOPES.] - -"It was no less provoking to have missed the view of the Ecrins and -Ailefroide, which we had expected to be particularly fine. But there was -no help for it, and no prospect of immediate improvement; so, without -halting for a minute, we commenced the descent in the same order as -before. All we could see was a steep ice-wall, stretching downwards from -our feet, the actual ridge not being more than a couple of feet wide. -What was the length of the wall, or what lay below it, we could not -discover, but had a shrewd suspicion that we should anyhow find a -considerable _bergschrund_. Croz steered to the left, and began cutting -steps diagonally downwards. The snow was in a much worse condition than -it had been in the couloir; there was more of it, but it was so -exceedingly soft, that our feet pressed through it to the hard ice, as -though it had been water, and we were very rarely able to trust to it -without cutting a step. We should have been better pleased had there -been no snow at all, as the whole slope, the angle of which was about -50 deg., was in just the proper condition for an avalanche. I never saw -Almer so nervous, and with reason; for, as he himself said, while he -implored us not to move from one step into another before we felt that -one foot at least was secured, this was just one of those places where -no amount of skill on the part of Croz or himself could entirely prevent -the chance of a serious accident. It was a wonder how we did manage to -stick to some of the steps, the objectionable character of which was -increased from their being cut along the side of the slope, a position -in which it is always more difficult to get from one to the other than -when they are cut straight up or down. As we got lower down there was -more snow, which, though softer than ever, was so steep that we could -tread tolerably secure steps on it, by help of which we worked down, -until we found ourselves brought up short on the upper edge of the -expected _bergschrund_. Croz had hoped to hit this at a point where it -was partially choked, but he was disappointed, as the chasm yawned below -us, entirely unbridged. A glance right and left showed that there was no -more assailable point within reach, so Croz gave out the unwelcome -intelligence that if we wished to get over we must jump and take our -chance. The obstacle appeared to be about 10 feet wide, of uncomfortable -depth, and the drop from the upper to the lower edge about 15 feet. From -the lower edge the glacier sloped away, only less steep than the wall on -which we were, of which it was a continuation, but cut off by this -sudden break. There was, however, so much soft snow that we should fall -easy, and the only difficulty, therefore, was to take a sufficiently -fair spring to clear the chasm; for, good as I believed my rope to be, I -should have been sorry to see any one suspended by it, with a sudden -jerk, over such a gulf as that we had beneath us. Walker was untied, so -as to give rope enough to Croz, who then boldly sprung over, and landed -heavily on the lower edge in the snow, where he stood to receive the -rest of the party. Walker followed, and then Whymper, leaving Mons. -Renaud, myself, and Almer above. Mons. Renaud advanced to the edge, -looked, hesitated, drew back, and finally declared that he could not -jump it; he felt perfectly convinced that he should be unable to clear -the distance, and should jump in instead of over. We encouraged him, -but without effect, and at last proposed to lower him down, when the -others would hook hold of his legs somehow and pull him across. Almer -and I, therefore, made our footing as secure as possible, anchored -ourselves with our axes, and made all ready to lower our friend, but his -courage failed him at the last moment, and he refused to go. We were now -obliged to use stronger arguments, as it was snowing fast, and time was -passing, so we pointed out that, if we wished to return ever so much, we -could not get the others back across the _schrund_, and that, in point -of fact, there was no chance--over he _must_ go. Again did he advance to -the edge, again draw back, but finally, with a despairing groan, leaped, -and just landed clear of the chasm, but, instead of letting his rope -hang loose, he held it in one hand, and thereby nearly pulled me over -head foremost. Then came my turn, and I must confess that, when I stood -in the last step from which I had to spring, I did not like the look of -the place at all, and, in fact, felt undeniably nervous. But I had not -been one of the least backward in objurgating Mons. Renaud, so felt -constrained to manifest no hesitation myself, whatever might be my -private feelings. I, therefore, threw over my axe and spectacles, -gathered myself up, and took the leap. The sensation was most peculiar. -I had not the faintest idea whether I should or should not clear the -chasm, but the doubt was soon solved by my landing heavily on the -further side, rather to the right of the rest of the party. The heavy -load on my back sent me forwards on my face, and I shot down the slope -with tremendous velocity, head foremost, until I was suddenly stopped by -the tightening round my waist of the rope, the other end of which was -held by Almer above. My first impression was, that half my ribs were -crushed in; as it was, my wind was so completely bagged by the severity -of the jerk that I could not speak, but laughed hysterically, until -nature's bellows had replenished my unlucky carcass. The incident was so -far satisfactory that it showed the enormous strength of the rope, and -also how severe a shock a man like Almer, standing in a most insecure -position, can bear unmoved when he is prepared for it. My weight, -unloaded, is 101/2 stone, and the strain on the rope was certainly nearly -as great as though I _had_ jumped into the crevasse. Almer now followed -us over, and at 11.35 we were all together without accident below the -_schrund_, which, with the wall above it, was as ugly-looking a place as -I would wish to see. - -"We now floundered down the slope of soft snow, without taking much -care, as we imagined that henceforward it was all plain sailing, but -were abruptly checked in our pace by coming upon a huge crevasse, of -great length and breadth, but covered over in places. Several attempts -were made to cross at one of these points, but without success, as the -breadth was too great, and the snow unsubstantial in the extreme, and a -long _detour_ was necessary before we were able to get over near its -eastern extremity. This proved to be the beginning of a new series of -troubles, as the chasms became more and more numerous and complicated, -until the slope which we had imagined would be so easy, resolved itself -into a wall of gigantic _seracs_, the passage of which tasked our -energies to the utmost. The difficulty of the position was increased by -our still being enveloped in a mist so thick that we could not see a -distance of 20 feet below us, and were in a happy state of ignorance as -to whether we were steering properly, or were only plunging deeper into -the mire. Nothing, however, could exceed the energy and skill with which -Croz threaded his way through the labyrinth which surrounded us. He -never once had to retrace his steps, but, cutting along the sides of -some crevasses and underneath others, he steadily gained ground. In -spite of the generally deep snow, a good deal of step-cutting was -necessary here and there, and we had nearly an hour of most exciting -work before the inclination of the glacier diminished, and at 12.30 -P.M., for the first time since leaving the Col, we stood at ease upon a -flat plain of snow. But how long would it last? A fog on an unknown -glacier always suggests to my desponding mind the probability of -marching round and round in a circle, and finally having to pass the -night in a crevasse, so that I, personally, was particularly relieved -when, just as we emerged from the _seracs_, the mist suddenly lifted -sufficiently to let us see a long way over the glacier in front, which -displayed itself to our admiring eyes perfectly level and -uncrevassed." - -[Illustration: THE ECRINS FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE GRANDE RUINE.] - -[Illustration: _The summit of the Jungfrau._ (_P. 217._) - -_To face p. 235._] - -[Illustration: CLOUDS BREAKING LIKE A GIANT WATERFALL ON A MOUNTAIN -RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: SNOW (NOT CLOUD) BLOWN BY A TERRIFIC WIND FROM A MOUNTAIN -RIDGE.] - - - - -CHAPTER XV - -A PERILOUS FIRST ASCENT - - -Mr Whymper has also immortalised the first ascent of the Ecrins. Here is -the account Mr Moore wrote in his diary of that eventful day: - -"It must be confessed that the higher we climbed, the greater became our -contempt for our peak. It certainly seemed that, once over the -_bergschrund_, we ought very soon to be on the top, and so persuaded was -I of this, that I hazarded the opinion that by 9.30 we should be seated -on the highest point. Whymper alone was less sanguine; and, probably -encouraged by the result of his former bet, on hearing my opinion, -offered to bet Walker and myself two francs that we should not get up at -all, an offer which we promptly accepted. We were now sufficiently near -to the _bergschrund_ to be able to form some idea of its nature and -difficulty. It certainly was a formidable-looking obstacle running -completely along the base of the final peak, or rather ridge from which -the peak itself rose. For a long distance the chasm was of great width, -and, with its upper edge rising in a wall of ice, fringed with icicles, -to a height of, perhaps, 30 feet above the lower edge, was obviously -quite impassable. But on the extreme right (looking up), the two lips so -nearly met that we thought we might be able to get over, and on the -extreme left, it seemed possible, by a considerable _detour_, to -circumvent the enemy, and get round his flank. We finally determined on -the latter course, as, to the right, the slope above the chasm seemed to -be steeper than at any other point. After the first start, we had been -steering tolerably straight forwards up the centre of the glacier, and -were now approaching the _bergschrund_, just under the highest peak of -the mountain, at about its most impracticable point. The more direct -course would have been to attack it on the right, but, for the reason -above stated, we chose the opposite end, so had to strike well away to -the left diagonally up the slope. We here first began to suspect that -our progress would not be quite so easy and rapid as we had hoped, as -the snow became less abundant, and the use of the axe necessary. Still -we worked away steadily, until, at 8.10 A.M., in one hour and forty -minutes from the Col, we turned the _bergschrund_, and were fairly on -its upper edge, clinging to an ice-step which promised to be only the -first of an unpleasantly long series. - -"Above us the slope stretched up to some rocks, which continued without -interruption to the main ridge, a prominent point on which was just -above our heads. The rocks looked quite easy, and it seemed that, by -making for them just under the small peak, we should be able to work -round the latter, and get on to the main ridge to the right of it -without serious difficulty. Almer led, and wielded his axe with his -usual vigour, but the ice was fearfully hard, and he found the work very -severe, as the steps had to be cut sufficiently large and good to serve -for our retreat, if need be. After each blow, he showered down storms of -fragments which came upon the hands and legs of his followers with a -violence that rendered their position the reverse of pleasant. Still the -rocks kept their distance, and it was a long time before we scrambled on -to the lowest of them, only to find that, although from below they had -appeared quite easy, they were in reality very steep, and so smooth that -it was scarcely possible to get along them at all, the hold for hands -and feet being almost nil. The rocky peak, too, above us turned out to -be much further off than we had supposed, and, to reach the point on the -main ridge to the right of it, we had before us a long and difficult -climb up and along the face of the rocks. The prospect was not pleasant, -but we scrambled along the lower part of the rocks for a short time, and -then Almer started off alone to reconnoitre, leaving us rather -disconsolate, and Walker and myself beginning to think that there was a -considerable probability of our francs, after all, finding their way -into Whymper's pocket. Croz did not approve of the rocks at all, and -strongly urged the propriety of getting down on to the ice-slope again, -and cutting along it above the _bergschrund_ until we should be -immediately under the peak, and then strike straight up towards it. He -accordingly cast loose the rope, and crawling cautiously down, began -cutting. I am not very nervous, but, as I saw him creeping alone over -the ice-covered rocks, I felt an unpleasant qualm, which I was doomed to -experience several times before the end of the day. Just as Croz had -begun to work Almer returned, and reported that things ahead were -decidedly bad, but that he thought we could get on to the _arete_ by -keeping up the rocks. We passed his opinion down to Croz, and, while he -was digesting it, we communicated to Almer what Croz had been saying to -us. Now, up to the present time no two men could have got on better, nor -more thoroughly agreed with each other, than Croz and Almer. We had been -slightly afraid that the natural antipathy between an Oberlander and a -Chamouniard would break out upon every occasion, and that a constant -series of squabbles would be our daily entertainment. We were, however, -agreeably disappointed, as Almer displayed such an utter abnegation of -self, and such deference to Croz's opinion, that had the latter been the -worst-tempered fellow in the world, instead of the really good fellow -that he was, he could not have found a cause of quarrel. Upon this -occasion, although Almer adhered to his own opinion that it would be -better to keep to the rocks, he begged us to follow the advice of Croz, -who was equally strong in favour of the ice, should he, on further -consideration, prefer that course. Croz protested emphatically against -the rocks, but left it to us to decide, but in such a manner that it was -plain that a decision adverse to his wishes would produce a rumpus. The -position was an awkward one. The idea of cutting along a -formidably-steep slope of hard ice immediately above a prodigious -_bergschrund_ was most revolting to us, not only on account of the -inevitable danger of the proceeding, but also because of the frightful -labour which such a course must entail on the two men. On the other -hand, a serious difference with Croz would probably destroy all chance -of success in our attempt. So convinced, however, were we that the rocks -offered the most advisable route that we determined to try the -experiment on Croz's temper, and announced our decision accordingly. The -effect was electric; Croz came back again in the steps which he had cut, -anger depicted on his countenance, giving free vent to the ejaculations -of his native land, and requesting us to understand that, as we had so -chosen, we might do the work ourselves, that he would do no more. -Affairs were evidently serious, so each of us cried _peccavi_, and, to -calm his irritation, agreed, it must be confessed against our better -judgment, to adopt his route. Almer was more amused than annoyed, and -concurred without a word, so the storm blew over; the sky was again -clear, and we resumed our labours, which, during the discussion, had -been suspended for a few minutes. - -"The half-dozen steps that led us to the ice were about the most -unpleasant I ever took. The rocks were glazed with ice; there was -nothing in particular to hold on by, and without the trusty rope I -should have looked a long time before trusting myself to move. As it -was, I was very considerably relieved when we were all standing in the -steps, and Croz, again roped on to us, began at 9.35 to cut in front. I -must do him the justice to say that, so soon as we were committed to his -line of march, he worked splendidly, bringing the whole force of his arm -to bear in the blows with which he hewed the steps. Never halting for a -moment nor hesitating, he hacked away, occasionally taking a glance -behind to see that all was right. We could not but admire the -determination with which he laboured, but the exertion was fearful, and -we became momentarily more of opinion that our original decision was the -wisest. The slope on which we were was inclined at an angle of 50 deg., -never less, sometimes more, for the most part of hard blue ice, bare of -snow. This was bad enough; but far worse were places which we -occasionally came to, where there was a layer of soft, dry, powdery -snow, without cohesion, so that it gave no footing, and steps had to be -cut through it into the ice below, steps which were filled up almost as -soon as cut, and which each man had to clear out with his hands before -trusting his feet in them. All the time the great _bergschrund_ yawned -about 100 feet below us, and the knowledge of this fact kept us well on -the alert, although, from the steepness of the slope below, the chasm -itself was not visible. One hears people talk occasionally of places -where the rope should not be used, because one person slipping might -entail the loss of the whole party; but I never heard a guide give vent -to any such idea, and certain I am that had any one of us now proposed -to take off the rope and go alone on that account, Almer and Croz would -never have allowed it, and, indeed, would not have advanced another -step. It must be admitted, however, that all along this slope, had one -of us unfortunately slipped, the chance of the others being able to hold -him up would have been very small, and the probability of the party in -their fall being shot over, instead of into, the _bergschrund_, still -smaller. But, in my opinion, the use of the rope on such places gives so -much more confidence, if it is no real protection, that the chances of a -slip are much diminished, and certainly a party can progress more -rapidly. For an hour Croz kept on his way unwearied, cutting the steps -for the most part beautifully, but occasionally giving us rather a long -stride, where every one held on like grim death, while each man in -succession passed. But at last even his powerful frame required rest; so -Almer relieved him, and went to the front. - -"All this time we had risen but little, but we were now very nearly -under the highest peak, and it was necessary to think of getting on to -the ridge; so we at last fairly turned our faces to the slope, and began -cutting straight up what appeared to be a great central couloir. Unlike -most couloirs, this one did not run without interruption to the ridge -above, but came to an abrupt termination at a considerable distance -below it, leaving an intervening space of rock, which promised some -trouble. But we were yet far from the lowest point of these rocks, and -every step towards them cost no small amount of time and labour. I have -rarely been on harder ice, and, as blow after blow fell with so little -apparent result in raising us towards our goal, an inexpressible -weariness of spirit and a feeling of despair took possession of me. -Nevertheless we _did_ mount, and at 11.30, after two hours of terribly -hard work (for the guides), we grasped with our hands the lowest of the -crags. To get on them, however, was no easy task, as they were -exceedingly smooth, and coated with ice. Almer scrambled up, how I know -not, and, taking as much rope as possible, crawled on until he was -_fest_, when, by a combined operation of pulling from above and pushing -from below, each of us in turn was raised a few steps. We hoped that -this might be an exceptional bit, and that higher up matters would -improve. But it was a vain hope; the first few steps were but a -foretaste of what was to follow, and every foot of height was gained -with the greatest difficulty and exertion. As we climbed with the tips -of our fingers in some small crevice, and the tips of our toes just -resting on some painfully minute ledge, probably covered with ice or -snow, one question gradually forced itself upon us, almost to the -exclusion of the previously absorbing one, whether we should get to the -top of the mountain, and this was, how on earth we should ever get down -again--get down, that is to say, in any other state than that of -_debris_. The idea that it would be possible to descend these rocks -again, except with a rush in the shape of an avalanche, seemed rather -absurd; and at last, some one propounded the question to Almer and Croz, -but those worthies shirked the answer, and gave us one of those oracular -replies which a good guide always has at the tip of his tongue when he -is asked a question to which he does not wish to give a straightforward -response, to the effect that we should probably get down somehow. They -were, perhaps, of opinion that one thing at a time was sufficient, and -that they had work enough to settle the question of how we were to get -up. Our progress was unavoidably slow, and the positions in which one -was detained, while the man in front was going the full length of his -tether, were far from agreeable; while hanging on by my eyelids, the -view, seen between my legs, of the smooth wall of rock and ice on which -we had been so long engaged, struck me as being singularly impressive, -and gave me some occupation in discussing mentally where I should stop, -if in an oblivious moment I chanced to let go. But to all things must -come an end, and, at 12.30 P.M., with a great sigh of relief, we lifted -ourselves by a final effort on to the main ridge, which had so long -mocked at our efforts to reach it, and, to our huge delight, saw the -summit of the mountain on our right, led up to by a very steep _arete_ -of rocks, but evidently within our reach. - -"The work of the last four hours and a half had been so exciting that -we had forgotten to eat, and, indeed, had not felt the want of food; but -now the voice of nature made itself heard, and we disposed ourselves in -various positions on the ridge, which in many places we might have -straddled, and turned our attention to the provisions. As we sat facing -the final peak of the Ecrins, we had on our left the precipice which -falls to the head of the Glacier Noir. Without any exaggeration, I never -saw so sheer a wall; it was so smooth and regular that it might have -been cut with a knife, as a cheese is cut in two. Looking over, we saw -at once that, as we had thought probable, had we been able to get from -La Berarde on to the ridge at the head of the Glacier du Vallon, it -would have been impossible to get down on to the Glacier Noir, as the -cliffs are almost as precipitous as those down which we were looking. On -the right bank of the Glacier Noir towered the dark crags of the -Pelvoux, Crete du Pelvoux, and Ailefroide, a most glorious sight, -presenting a combination of, perhaps, the finest rock-forms in the Alps; -I certainly never saw so long and steep a line of cliffs, rising so -abruptly from a glacier. - -"At 12.50 we started again, Almer leading. We had first to cross a very -short but very narrow neck of snow, and Almer had scarcely set foot on -this, when a great mass of snow, which had appeared quite firm and part -of the ridge, suddenly gave way, and fell with a roar to the Glacier -Noir below. Almer's left foot was actually on this snow when it gave -way. He staggered, and we all thought he was over, but he recovered -himself and managed to keep steady on the firm ridge. It is true he was -roped; but the idea of a man being dropped with a sudden jerk, and then -allowed to hang suspended, over that fearful abyss, was almost too much -for my equanimity, and for the second time a shudder ran through my -veins. This little isthmus crossed, we tackled the rocks which rose very -steeply above our heads, and climbed steadily up along the _arete_, -generally rather below the edge on the side of the Glacier de l'Encula. -The work was hard enough, but easier than what we had gone through -below, as the rocks were free from ice, and the hold for hands and feet -was much better, so that there was no fear of slipping. I don't think a -word was said from the time we quitted our halting-place until we were -close to the top, when the guides tried to persuade us to go in front, -so as to be the first to set foot on the summit. But this we declined; -they had done the work, let them be the first to reap the reward. It was -finally settled that we should all go on together as much as possible, -as neither party would give way in this amicable contest. A sharp -scramble in breathless excitement ensued, until, at 1.25 P.M., the last -step was taken, and we stood on the top of the Ecrins, the worthy -monarch of the Dauphine Alps. - -[Illustration: THE ECRINS (IN THE CENTRE) FROM THE GLACIER BLANC. By -Signor Vittorio Sella. - -_To face p. 247._] - -"In that supreme moment all our toils and dangers were forgotten in the -blissful consciousness of success, and the thrill of exultation that ran -through me, as I stood, in my turn, on the very highest point of the -higher pinnacle--a little peak of rock with a cap of snow--was cheaply -purchased by what we had gone through. Close to us was a precisely -similar point, of much the same height, which scarcely came up to the -rank of a second summit. It could have been reached in a few seconds -from our position, but, as our point was actually the higher of the two, -and was also more convenient for sitting down, we remained where we -were. I must confess to a total inability to describe the wonderful -panorama that lay extended before us. I am not one of those happily -constituted individuals who, after many hours of excitement, can calmly -sit on the apex of a mountain, and discuss simultaneously cold chicken -and points of topography. I am not ashamed to confess that I was far too -excited to study, as I ought to have done, the details of a view which, -for extent and variety, is altogether without a parallel in my Alpine -experience. Suffice it to say that over the whole sky there was not one -single cloud, and that we were sitting on the most elevated summit south -of Mont Blanc, and it may fairly be left to the imagination to conceive -what we saw, as, at an elevation of 13,462 feet, we basked in the sun, -without the cold wind usually attendant at these heights. There was not -a breath of air, and the flame of a candle would have burnt steadily -without a flicker. In our immediate neighbourhood, after the range of -the Pelvoux, before described, the most striking object was the great -wall of the Meije, the western summit of which, from here, came out -distinctly the highest. The Aiguilles d'Arves stood out exceedingly -well, and, although 2000 feet lower than our position, looked amazingly -high. Almost the only trace of civilisation we could distinctly make out -was the Lautaret road, a portion of which, probably near the entrance of -the valley leading to the Glacier d'Arsines, was plainly visible. On the -side of the mountain towards La Berarde, what principally struck us was -a very great and extensive glacier, apparently not marked on the map, -which appeared to be an arm of the Glacier du Vallon, but far more -considerable itself than the whole glacier is depicted on the French -map. Of the extent of the view, and the wonderfully favourable condition -of the atmosphere, a fair idea may be gained from the fact that we -clearly identified the forms and ridges of the Matterhorn and Weisshorn, -the latter at a distance of 120 miles, as the crow flies, and that -those were by no means the most distant objects visible. - -[Illustration: SLAB CLIMBING. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: A NARROW ROCK RIDGE. By Mr. Leonard Rawlence.] - -[Illustration: ON THE DENT DU GEANT. By the late Mr. W. F. Donkin.] - -[Illustration: THE TOP AT LAST! - -_To face p. 252._] - -"So soon as the first excitement consequent on success had subsided, we -began seriously to meditate upon what during the ascent had frequently -troubled us, viz. the descent. With one consent we agreed that unless no -other route could be found, it would be most unadvisable to attempt to -go down the way we had mounted. The idea of the rocks, to be followed by -the ice-slope below--in a doubly dangerous state after being exposed all -day to the scorching sun--was not to be entertained without a shudder. -The only alternative route lay along the opposite _arete_ to that which -had led us to the top, and, although we could not see far in this -direction, we determined, after very little discussion, to try it. -Accordingly, after twenty minutes' halt, we each pocketed a small -fragment of the stone that was lying on the snow, and, regretting that -we had no bottle to leave, and no materials with which to construct a -cairn, took our departure at 1.45 from the lofty perch which, I fancy, -is not likely to receive many subsequent visitors. Passing immediately -below the second point before mentioned, so that our hands almost rested -on it, and also several similar pinnacles, our work commenced. I never, -before or since, was on so narrow an _arete_ of rock, and really from -step to step I was at a loss to imagine how we were to get on any -further. We kept, as a rule, just below the edge, as before, on the side -of the Glacier de l'Encula, along a series of ledges of the narrowest -and most insecure character; but we were always sufficiently near the -top to be able to look over the ridge, down the appalling precipices -which overhang, first the Glacier Noir, and later, the Glacier du -Vallon. Of course, every single step had to be taken with the greatest -care, only one person moving in turn, and the rest holding on for dear -life, Croz coming last to hold all up. In spite of the great difficulty -of the route, the obstacles were only such as required more or less time -to surmount, and although the slightest nervousness on the part of any -one of us would have endangered the whole party and delayed us -indefinitely, in the absence of that drawback we got on pretty well. We -were beginning to hope that the worst was over, when Almer suddenly -stopped short, and looked about him uneasily. On our asking him what was -the matter, he answered vaguely that things ahead looked bad, and that -he was not sure that we could pass. Croz accordingly undid the rope, as -also did Almer, and the two went forward a little, telling us to remain -where we were. We could _not_ see what was the nature of the difficulty, -but we _could_ see the countenances of the men, which sufficiently -showed us that the hitch was serious. Under any other circumstances we -should have been amused at Almer's endeavours to communicate his views -to Croz in an amazing mixture of pantomime, bad German, and worse -French. He evidently was trying to persuade Croz of something, which -Croz was not inclined to agree to, and we soon made out that the point -at issue was, whether we could get over this particular place, or -whether we must return to the summit, and go down the way we had come. -Croz was of the latter opinion, while Almer obstinately maintained that, -bad as the place was, we _could_ get over it, and proceeded to perform -some manoeuvres, which we could not clearly see, by way of showing the -correctness of his opinion. Croz, however, was unconvinced, and came -back to us, declaring plainly that we should have to return. We shouted -to Almer, who was still below, but he evidently had not the slightest -intention of returning, and in a few moments called upon us to come on, -an injunction which we cheerfully obeyed as, in our opinion, anything -would be preferable to a retreat, and Croz perforce followed. A very few -steps showed us the nature of the difficulty. The _arete_ suddenly -narrowed to a mere knife-edge of _rock_, while on one side a smooth -wall, some 4000 feet in height, fell sheer towards the Glacier du -Vallon, and on the other side, above the Glacier de l'Encula, the slope -was not much less steep and equally smooth. To pass below the ridge on -either side was obviously quite impossible; to walk along the ridge, -which was by no means level, was equally so, and the only way of getting -over the difficulty, therefore, was to straddle it, an operation which -the sharpness of the ridge, putting aside all other considerations, -would render the reverse of agreeable. However, there, perched in the -middle of this fiendish place, sat Almer, with one leg over Glacier du -Vallon and the other over the Glacier de l'Encula, calm and unmoved, as -if the position was quite an everyday one. He had not got the rope on, -and as he began moving along the ridge we shrieked at him to take care, -to which he responded with a '_ja, gewiss!_' and a chuckle of -satisfaction. We threw him the end of the rope, and then cautiously -moved, one at a time, towards him. I must confess that when I found -myself actually astride on this dizzy height I felt more inclined to -remain there for ever, contemplating the Glacier du Vallon, on to which -I might have dropped a stone, than to make my way along it. The -encouraging voice of Almer, however, urged me on, and I gradually worked -myself along with my hands until I was close up to him and Walker, with -no damage save to the seat of my trousers. Whymper and Croz followed. -From this point forwards we had for half-an-hour, without exception, the -most perilous climbing, I ever did. We crept along the cliffs, -sometimes on one side of the ridge, sometimes on the other, frequently -passing our arms over the summit, with our feet resting on rather less -than nothing. Almer led with wonderful skill and courage, and gradually -brought us over the worst portion of the _arete_, below which the -climbing was bad enough, but not quite such nervous work as before, and -we were able to get along rather quicker. At length, at 3.45, in two -hours from the top, we were not far above the well-marked gap in the -ridge, between the highest peak and the one marked on the French map -3980 metres, or 13,058 feet. There we thankfully left the _arete_, and, -turning to the right, struck straight down the ice-slope towards the -_bergschrund_. Almost every step had to be cut, but, in spite of all he -had done, Almer's vigour seemed unimpaired, and resolutely declining -Croz's offers to come to the front, he hacked away, so that we descended -steadily, if slowly. We could not see the _bergschrund_, and were -therefore uncertain for what exact point to steer, for we knew that at -only one place would it be possible to get over it at all, where from -below we had seen that the two edges nearly met--at all others the -breadth and height would be far too great for a jump. For some distance -we kept straight down, but after a time bore rather to the left, cutting -diagonally along the slope, which was inclined at an angle of 52 deg., and, -below us, curled over so rapidly, that we _could_ see the glacier on to -which we wished to descend, but _could not_ see what lay between us and -it. Passing over a patch of ice-covered rocks which projected very -slightly from the general level of the slope, we were certain that we -could not be far above the _schrund_, but did not quite see how we were -to get down any further without knowing whether we _were_ above a -practicable point or not. It was suggested that one of the party should -be let down with a rope, but, while we were discussing who should be the -one, Almer cut a few steps more, and then, stooping down and craning -over, gave a yell of exultation, and exclaimed that it was all right, -and that we might jump over. By a marvellous bit of intuition, or good -luck, he had led us to the only point where the two edges of the chasm -so nearly met that we could get across. He cut down as low as possible, -and then, from the last step, each man, in turn, sprang without -difficulty on to the lower edge of the crevasse, and at 4.45 the problem -of getting off the mountain was solved. - -"The return from this point was uneventful." - -A few days later Mr Moore had an amusing conversation with a chance -acquaintance, who made a remark that has since been often quoted. Mr -Moore relates it as follows:-- - -"At the door of the hotel was standing a young Frenchman, with whom we -got into conversation, observing that we had just made the ascent of the -highest mountain in the country. 'Oh,' replied he, 'sans doute, le Pic -de Belledonne'; a rather elevated Rigi in the neighbourhood. We informed -him that our conquest was not the Pic de Belladonne, but the Pic des -Ecrins, on hearing which he smiled blandly, never having heard the name -before, and, evidently meditating how he might avoid showing his -ignorance, finally contented himself with a spasmodic 'Ah!' After a -short pause, he inquired whether we had been up Mont Blanc, and, on _my_ -replying in the negative, went on to say that _he_ had, about ten days -before. We were astonished, as, without wishing to reflect on the -appearance of the worthy Gaul, I must say that he did not give us the -idea of a man capable of such a performance. However, we, in our turn, -smiled blandly, and inquired whether, so early in the season, he had -found the ascent difficult, and whether he had had a good view from the -_summit_. 'From the summit!' said he; 'I did not go to the summit.' We -ventured to inquire how high his wanderings had reached. 'Mon Dieu!' -replied he, 'jusqu'au Montanvert!' Our politeness was not proof against -this, so we broke off the conversation abruptly, and retired to indulge -our merriment unchecked." - -The Ecrins is now frequently climbed. A new way up the rocky south side -was discovered by a Frenchman, and is now usually taken for the ascent, -the descent being accomplished by the north face which the party that -included Mr Moore went up by and which has just been described. The -route is now well known, and thus it is possible to hit off the easiest -passages, but the traverse of what is known to the guides as 'the -Couloir Whymper' always requires the greatest care. - - - - -CHAPTER XVI - -THUNDERSTORMS IN THE ALPS - - -The fatal accident caused by lightning on the Wetterhorn in 1902 has -emphasized the curious fact that, except on that occasion, and once -before, many years ago, when Mrs Arbuthnot was killed on the -Schildthorn, no lives[10] have been lost in a thunderstorm on the Alps. -This is the more remarkable when we glance through books on -mountaineering, and notice how often climbers have been exposed to the -full fury of summer storms, and what narrow escapes they have had. In -July 1863, Mr and Mrs Spence Watson, with two friends and two guides, -made an excursion from the AEggischhorn to the high glacier pass of the -Jungfraujoch, an admirable account of the day's adventures having been -contributed by Mr Watson to _The Alpine Journal_, from which I extract -the following details. - -After starting on a lovely morning, the weather changed, and when they -got to the pass they encountered a severe storm of wind, snow, and hail. -They quickly turned to descend, the snow falling so heavily that they -could not for a time see their old tracks. Suddenly a loud peal of -thunder was heard, "and shortly after," writes Mr Watson, "I observed -that a strange singing sound like that of a kettle was issuing from my -alpenstock. We halted, and finding that all the axes and stocks emitted -the same sound, stuck them into the snow. The guide from the hotel now -pulled off his cap, shouting that his head burned, and his hair seemed -to have a similar appearance to that which it would have presented had -he been on an insulated stool under a powerful electrical machine. We -all of us experienced the sensation of pricking or burning in some part -of the body, more especially in the head and face, my hair also standing -on end in an uncomfortable but very amusing manner. The snow gave out a -hissing sound, as though a shower of hail were falling; the veil in the -wide-awake of one of the party stood upright in the air; and on waving -our hands, the singing sound issued loudly from the fingers. Whenever a -peal of thunder was heard the phenomenon ceased, to be resumed before -its echoes had died away. At these times we felt shocks, more or less -violent, in those portions of the body which were most affected. By one -of these shocks my right arm was paralysed so completely that I could -neither use nor raise it for several minutes, nor, indeed, till it had -been severely rubbed by Claret, and I suffered much pain in it at the -shoulder joint for some hours. At half-past twelve the clouds began -to pass away, and the phenomenon finally ceased, having lasted -twenty-five minutes. We saw no lightning, and were puzzled at first as -to whether we should be afraid or amused. The young guide was very much -alarmed, but Claret, who had twice previously heard the singing -(unaccompanied by the other symptoms), laughed so heartily at the whole -affair that he kept up our spirits." - -[Illustration: ON A RIDGE IN THE OBERLAND.] - -[Illustration: THE SECOND LARGEST GLACIER IN THE ALPS. By Royston Le -Blond. - -_To face p. 259._] - -The position of the party, was, however, by no means safe, yet though I -have often heard the buzzing of ice-axes and rocks when in a -thunderstorm on the mountains, I have never seen any ill effects from -it. - -A little later another description appears in _The Alpine Journal_, by -Mr C. Packe, who, during the descent of a peak in the Pyrenees, was -astonished to hear a curious creaking sound proceeding from behind him. -He was carrying various heavy articles at the time, and imagined that -the noise was due to the straining of the straps of his knapsack. He -presently unslung his load, and was amazed to find a strange buzzing -noise proceeding from his rifle, "as though it had been an air gun -trying to discharge itself. As I held it away from me, pointed upwards," -he continues, "the noise became stronger, and as I in vain sought to -account for it, I thought it possible that some large insect--a bee or -beetle--might have got down the barrel, and be trying to escape. I held -the barrel downwards, with a view to shake it out; but on lowering the -gun the sound at once ceased, but was renewed as often as I raised it." -It then began to occur to Mr Packe that the sound was electrical, and he -felt sure this was so when he found that his alpenstock had joined in -the buzzing. He therefore made a hasty retreat out of the highly charged -upper regions. Several peals of thunder had previously been heard but no -lightning was seen. A violent storm had, however, been experienced in a -neighbouring district. That similar conditions may seem delightful to -one man and entirely odious to another will strike whoever reads the -following short extract from an account of a climb in the Pyrenees made -by Mons. Henri Brulle. It was translated by Count Russell for _The -Alpine Journal_, and runs as follows: - -"Another time I crossed the Vignemale alone, _en col_, under conditions -which made this expedition the pleasantest of my souvenirs. A furious -storm was raging. Enveloped in the morning in a dense fog, annoyed in -the steep couloirs of the Cerbillonas by vultures which swept over me -like avalanches, just grazing me with their long wings, assailed during -three hours by hailstones of such size that they bruised and stunned me, -deafened by thunder, and so electrified that I was hissing and -crepitating, I notwithstanding reached the summit at half-past four in -the evening, amidst incessant detonations. In descending the glacier I -got lost in a labyrinth of crevasses, and while balancing myself on an -ice-wave I nearly dropped my ice-axe. As a climax, night came on as -black as ink, and I had to grope and feel my way down the endless valley -of Ossoue. It was eleven o'clock at night when I reached Gavarnie, -almost starved and quite exhausted, but having lived the crowning day of -my life." - -Here is indeed Mark Tapley in the flesh! - -Captain E. Clayton relates in _The Alpine Journal_ an adventure that -nearly cost him his life. - -"On 17th August last I left the Hochjoch Haus with Gabriel -Spechtenhauser with the intention of ascending the Weisskugel at the -head of the Oetzthal. The weather for the past week had been very -changeable, but when we started at 3 A.M. it was fine and starlight. A -German gentleman with two guides and two others with two guides started -at the same time. As long as the aid of a lantern was desirable we kept -together, but as it grew light Gabriel and I gradually drew ahead. As -day broke clouds began to gather, and when we halted for breakfast at -6.10 A.M. they hung so heavy on the Weisskugel that after breakfast, -instead of going straight on, we diverged to the top of the rocks -leading down towards Kurzras, with the intention of waiting a short -time to see what the weather would do, and if it did not mend, of going -down to Kurzras, where a friend was awaiting me. - -"At these rocks we were overtaken by the single German gentleman with -his guides, who had outstripped the other party. Before long the weather -seemed to improve, the clouds on the Weisskugel got lighter, the sky -seemed bright to the north, and we thought that very soon everything -would be quite clear. The German quickly made a fresh start, but Gabriel -and I waited to finish our pipes. However, we soon passed the other -party, and, passing over a minor summit, where we left the rope, reached -the real summit at 8.30 A.M. We had heard one or two peals of thunder on -the way, but none appeared very close, and they seemed to be getting -more distant. The summit was still in cloud, but it did not seem thick, -and I thought it would soon blow away. But almost directly we reached -the top it began to hail, and we went down a few steps on the rocky -ridge that falls towards the Langtauferer Glacier, to be somewhat -sheltered. - -"Here I remember handing Gabriel my map to put in his pocket to keep -dry, and knew nothing more till I woke to the consciousness that he was -lifting me up from where I was lying on the rocks, some 20 feet, I -suppose, lower than the point where we had been standing. I was -bleeding from a cut on the head, and my right arm was very painful, and -turned out afterwards to be broken. Gabriel said that he had been -knocked down also, but not rendered insensible, and, falling on his -hands towards the upward slope, was not hurt. He also said that he was -to a certain extent conscious of there having been a sudden glare and -explosion, but I knew nothing of it. The German and his two guides, who -at the time were just below the first summit, but not within sight of -us, were so alarmed at the lightning and thunder, that they turned at -once and never stopped till they reached Kurzras. The other party, who -had not got beyond the rocks where we halted during the ascent, waited -there for us, and Joseph Spechtenhauser, one of their guides, came to -meet us and see if we wanted assistance. However, I was quite myself -when I came to, which was directly Gabriel lifted me up, and the -mountain is so easy that my disabled arm was of little consequence. I -did not notice any more thunder or lightning after the flash that -knocked us down, and the day cleared up to a lovely one. I have every -reason to be pleased with Gabriel's kindness and attention to me without -regard to himself, and very much regret that my accident prevented me -from carrying out any of the other expeditions which I had promised -myself the pleasure of making in his company." - -One of the most exciting accounts of an adventure in the Alps is Mr -Tuckett's description of "A Race for Life,"[11] on the Eiger. Hardly -less stirring is a paper in _The Alpine Journal_ by the same famous -climber, from which he most kindly allows me to give a long quotation, -telling of a narrow escape during one of the most appalling -thunderstorms that could be experienced. The party were making the -ascent of the Roche Melon, a peak 11,593 feet high not far from the Mont -Cenis. The weather was unsettled, and grew worse as they mounted. - -"Proceeding very cautiously through the whirling wreaths of vapour lest -we should suddenly drop over upon Italy and hurt it--or ourselves--we -struck up the 'final incline'--as an American companion of mine once -dubbed the cone of Vesuvius as we looked down upon it from its rim--and -at 11.15 stood beside the ruins of the signal and enjoyed a very -magnificent view of nothing in particular. As we had plenty of time at -our disposal--three and a half hours sufficing for the descent to -Susa--and the wind was keen and damp, our first proceeding was to search -for the chapel, which we knew must be quite close to the summit of the -peak; and, about 30 feet lower down, on the southern side, which was -entirely free from snow, we came upon a tight little wooden building, -some 6 or 7 feet long and high by 5 broad, very carefully constructed, -with flat bands of thin iron on the outside covering the lines of -junction of the planks, so as effectually to keep out both wind and -moisture. Opposite the door, which we found carefully bolted, was a -wooden shelf against the wall serving as an altar, on which stood a -small bronze statuette of the Virgin, whilst on either hand hung the -usual curious medley of votive paintings, engravings, crosses, tapers -etc., not to mention certain pious scribblings. Taking great care to -disturb nothing, we arranged a loose board and our packs on the rather -damp floor so as to form a seat, and waited for the clouds to disperse -and disclose the superb panorama that we knew should here be visible. - -"Here I may be allowed to mention that a chapel, said to have been -originally excavated in the rock, and subsequently buried under ice or -snow, was here dedicated to the Virgin by a crusader of Asti, Boniface -by name, of the house of Rovero, in fulfilment of a vow made whilst a -captive in the hands of the Saracens. More recently the present wooden -structure has taken its place, and every year, on 5th August, pilgrims -resort to it in considerable numbers. Lower down on the Susa side is a -much more substantial structure, at a height of 9396 feet, called the Ca -d'Asti, in allusion to the circumstances of its foundation. The last is -a solidly, not to say massively, constructed circular edifice of stone -and mortar, some 15 or 16 feet in diameter, and perhaps rather more in -height, with a vaulted roof of solid masonry covered externally with -tiles, and surmounted by an iron cross. Seen from below, it stands out -boldly on a mass of crags which conceal the actual summit of the Roche -Melon, and close by are some low sheds, which appear ordinarily to serve -as shelter for flocks of sheep browsing on the grassy slopes around, but -on the night preceding the festa of 5th August, furnish sleeping -quarters for the assembled pilgrims, who attend mass in the adjoining -chapel, if the weather, as frequently happens, does not permit of its -being celebrated on the summit of the mountain, in what is probably the -most elevated shrine in Europe. - - * * * * * - -"The Roche Melon stands just in the track of the great storms which, -brewed in the heated plains of Lombardy and Piedmont, come surging up -through the valley of the Dora Riparia, and burst, hurling and crashing -over the depression of Mont Cenis, to find or make a watery grave in the -valley of the Arc. Of their combined fierceness and grandeur we were -soon to have only too favourable an opportunity of judging, for scarcely -more than five minutes after we had comfortably established ourselves -under shelter, suddenly, without a moment's warning, a perfect -_mitraille_ of hail smote the roof above us, tore through the mist like -grape-shot through battle-smoke, and whitened the ground like snow. We -closed the door carefully, for now came flash after flash of brilliant -lightning, with sharp, angry, snapping thunder, which, if we had been a -quarter of an hour later, would have made our position on the exposed -northern side anything but pleasant. We congratulated ourselves on our -good fortune, but were glad to pitch our axes amongst the _debris_ of -rock above us and await patiently the hoped-for dispersal of the fog. In -a few minutes the hail ceased, the mist became somewhat brighter, rifts -appeared in all directions, and, issuing forth, we were amply rewarded -by such glimpses of the wonderful view as, if not fully satisfactory for -topographical purposes, were, in a picturesque and artistic point of -view, indescribably grand and interesting. The extent of level country -visible is a remarkable feature in the view from the Roche Melon, as -also in that from the summit of the Pourri, where Imseng not a little -amused me on first catching sight of the plains of France stretching -away till lost in the haze, by shouting in a fit of uncontrollable -enthusiasm, 'Ach! Das ist wunderschoen!--ganz eben!'[12] - -"We had not had more than time enough to seize the general features of -the panorama and admire the special effects with their ever-changing and -kaleidoscopic combinations, when the mist once more swooped upon us, -again to be followed by hail, lightning, and thunder, and a fresh -clearance. But this second visitation left behind it a further souvenir -in the shape of a phenomenon with which most mountaineers are probably -more or less familiar, but which I never met with to the same extent -before--I allude to an electrified condition of the summit of the -mountain and all objects on its surface by conduction. As the clouds -swept by, every rock, every loose stone, the uprights of the rude -railing outside the chapel, the ruined signal, our axes, my lorgnette -and flask, and even my fingers and elbows, set up - - "'a dismal universal hiss.' - -It was as though we were in a vast nest of excited snakes, or a battery -of frying-pans, or listening at a short distance to the sustained note -of a band of _cigali_ in a chestnut wood--a mixture of comparisons which -may serve sufficiently to convey the impression that the general effect -was indescribable. I listened and looked and tried experiments for some -time, but suddenly it burst out with an energy that suggested a coming -explosion, or some equally unpleasant _denouement_, and, dropping my -axe, to whose performance I had been listening, I fairly bolted for -the chapel. - -[Illustration: 13,300 FEET ABOVE THE SEA.] - -[Illustration: ON THE FURGGEN GRAT.] - -[Illustration: A "PERSONALLY CONDUCTED" PARTY ON THE BREITHORN.] - -[Illustration: PACKING THE KNAPSACK AFTER LUNCH. - -_To face p. 269._] - -"We had now spent a couple of hours on the summit, and had succeeded in -getting, bit by bit, a sight of most of the principal features of the -very remarkable view, with the exception of Monte Viso, which -persistently sulked; so at 1.15, as there seemed a probability of the -weather becoming worse before it improved, we quitted our excellent -shelter, and, after putting everything in order and carefully closing -and bolting the door, sallied forth into the mist, which was again -enshrouding the mountain, apparently as the advance guard of the -fiercest storm in the neighbourhood, which we had for some time been -watching as it swept solemnly towards us down the valley of the Dora. - -"There is a sort of track, rather than well-defined path, down the bare, -rocky, and _debris_-covered southern face of the mountain, but in the -fog and momentarily increasing gloom of the coming tempest it was not -always very easy to distinguish it. Still, we descended rapidly, and in -less than half an hour had dropped down some 2000 feet to a point where, -during an instant's lift, we descried the outline of the Ca d'Asti five -minutes below us, just as the edge of the coming hail smote us with a -fury which it was hard at times to face. We dashed on--it was a regular -_sauve qui peut_--blinded and staggering under the pitiless pelting and -the fury of the blast, gained the door of the chapel, which faced the -storm, deposited our axes outside, and darted in, thankful again to find -ourselves under so good a roof just when it was most needed. - -"For, if there had been at times wild goings on upon the summit during -the morning, they were merely a faint prelude to the elemental strife -which now raged around. The wind roared and the hail hissed in fiendish -rivalry, and yet both seemed silenced when the awful crashes of thunder -burst above and about us. We were in the very central track and focus of -the storm, and, as we sat crouched upon the floor, the ground and the -building seemed to reel beneath the roar of the detonations, and our -heads almost to swim with the fierce glare of the lightning. I had -carefully closed the door, not only to keep the wind and hail out, but -also because lightning is apt to follow a current of air, and, to the -right on entering, at about the height of a man, was a small unglazed -window some 2 feet square. Opposite the door was the altar, on the step -of which I seated myself. Imseng took a place by my side, between me and -the window, whilst Christian perched himself on the coil of rope with -his back to the wall, not far from the door, and between it and the -window. A quarter of a hour may have gone by when a flash of intense -vividness seemed almost to dart through the window, and so affected -Imseng's nerves that he hastily quitted his seat by me and coiled -himself up near Christian, remarking that 'that was rather too close to -be pleasant.' Then came four more really awful flashes, followed all but -instantaneously by sharp, crackling thunder, which sounded like a volley -of bullets against a metal target, and then a fifth with a slightly -increased interval between it and the report. I was just remarking to -Christian that I thought the worst was past, and that we should soon be -liberated, adding, 'How fortunate we are for the second time to-day to -get such shelter just in the nick of time,' when--crash! went -everything, it seemed, all at once: - - "'No warning of the approach of flame, - Swiftly like sudden death it came.' - -If some one had struck me from behind on the bump of firmness with a -sledge-hammer, or if we had been in the interior of a gigantic -percussion shell which an external blow had suddenly exploded, I fancy -the sensation might have resembled that which I for the first instant -experienced. We were blinded, deafened, smothered, and struck, all in a -breath. The place seemed filled with fire, our ears rang with the -report, fragments of what looked like incandescent matter rained down -upon us as though a meteorite had burst, and a suffocating sulphurous -odour--probably due to the sudden production of ozone in large -quantities--almost choked us. For an instant we reeled as though -stunned, but each sprang to his feet and instinctively made for the -door. What my companions' ideas were I cannot tell; mine were few and -simple--I had been struck, or was being struck, or both; the roof would -be down upon us in another moment; inside was death, outside our only -safety. The door opened inwards, and our simultaneous rush delayed our -escape; but it was speedily thrown back, and, dashing out into the -blinding hail, we plunged, dazed and almost stupefied, into the nearest -shed. For the next few minutes the lightning continued to play about us -in so awful a manner that we were in no mood calmly to investigate the -nature or extent of our injuries. It was enough that we were still among -the living, though I must own that, at first, I had a fearful suspicion -that poor Imseng was seriously wounded. He held his head between his -hands, and rolled it about in so daft a manner, and was so odd and -unnatural in his movements generally, that it struck me his brain might -have received some injury. I, for my part, was painfully conscious of a -good deal of pain in the region of the right instep, and I saw that one -of Christian's hands was bleeding, and that he was holding both his -thighs as if in suffering. - -[Illustration: MONTE ROSA FROM THE FURGGEN GRAT.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE WELLENKUPPE. - -_To face p. 272_.] - -"Gradually the storm drew off towards the Mont Cenis, and, with minds -free from the tension of imminent peril, we had time to take stock of -our condition. It was a relief to see Imseng let go his head and -observe that it remained erect; to hear Christian say that his thighs -were getting better; and to find, on examining my foot, that the -mischief was nothing more than a flesh wound, which was bleeding but -slightly. My hat, indeed, was knocked in, my pockets filled with stones -and plaster, and my heart, it may be, somewhat nearer my mouth than -usual, but otherwise we could congratulate ourselves, with deep -thankfulness on a most marvellous escape from serious harm. - -"On comparing our impressions, Imseng declared that the lightning had -entered through the window, struck the altar, glanced off from it to the -wall, and then vanished, whilst Christian and I agreed in the belief -that the roof had been the part struck, and the flash had descended -almost vertically upon us. Quitting our place of refuge and repairing to -the chapel, we encountered a scene of ruin which at once confirmed the -correctness of our views. The lightning had evidently first struck the -iron cross outside and smashed in the roof, dashing fragments of stone -and plaster upon us which, brilliantly illuminated, looked to our dazed -and confused vision like flakes of fiery matter. It had then encountered -the altar, overturning the iron cross and wooden candlesticks only 3 -feet from the back of my head as I sat on the step, tearing the wreath -of artificial flowers or worsted rosettes strung on copper wire which -surrounded the figure of the Virgin, and scattering the fragments in all -directions. Next it glanced against the wall, tore down, or otherwise -damaged, some of the votive pictures (engravings), and splintered -portions of their frames into 'matchwood.' The odour of ozone was still -strong, the water from the melting hail was coming freely through the -roof, and the walls were in two places cracked to within 5 feet of the -ground. In fact, as a chapel, the building was ruined, though showing -little traces, externally, of the damage done, so that it is -possible--unless a stray shepherd happened to look in--that its -condition would for the first time become known upon the arrival of the -pilgrims on the eve of 5th August. - -"We stood long watching our departing foe, and then three very sobered -men dropped down silently and quickly that afternoon upon Susa, thinking -of what might have been our fate." - - - - -CHAPTER XVII - -LANDSLIPS IN THE MOUNTAINS - - -"Sir W. Martin Conway has been good enough to allow me to extract from -_The Alps from End to End_ the following account of the destruction of -Elm. Mountain falls have a special interest for all who travel in -Switzerland, where the remains of so many are visible. - -"The Himalayas are, from a geological point of view, a young set of -mountain ranges; they still tumble about on an embarrassingly large -scale. The fall, which recently made such a stir, began on 6th September -1893. That day the Maithana Hill (11,000 feet), a spur of a large -mountain mass, pitched bodily rather than slid, into the valley. - -"'Little could be seen of the terrible occurrence, for clouds of dust -instantly arose, which darkened the neighbourhood and fell for miles -around, whitening the ground and the trees until all seemed to be snow -covered. The foot of the hill had been undermined by springs until there -was no longer an adequate base, and in the twinkling of an eye a large -part of the mountain slid down, pushed forward, and shot across the -valley, presenting to the little river a lofty and impervious wall, -against which its waters afterwards gathered. Masses of rocks were -hurled a mile away, and knocked down trees on the slopes across the -valley. Many blocks of dolomitic limestone, weighing from 30 to 50 tons, -were sent like cannon-shots through the air. The noise was terrific, and -the frightened natives heard the din repeated at intervals for several -days, for the first catastrophe was succeeded by a number of smaller -slides. Even five months after the mountain gave way, every rainy day -was succeeded by falls of rocks. A careful computation gives the weight -of the enormous pile of rubbish at 800,000,000 tons.' - -"The Himalayas are indeed passing through their dramatic geological -period, when they give rise to such landslips as this at relatively -frequent intervals. Plenty of landslips quite as big have been recorded -in the last half-century, and, amongst the remote and uninhabited -regions of the great ranges, numbers more of which no record is made -constantly happen. The catastrophic period has ended for the Alps. -Landslips on a great scale seldom occur there now; when they do occur, -the cause of them is oftener the activity of man than of natural forces. -But of a great landslip in the Alps details are sure to be observed, and -we are enabled to form a picture of the occurrence. When the Alps -tremble the nations quake; the Himalayas may shudder in their solitudes, -but the busy occidental world pays scant attention, unless gathering -waters threaten to spread ruin afar. Of the Gohna Lake we have been told -much, but little of the fall that caused it. Eye-witnesses appear not to -have been articulate. We can, however, form some idea of what it was -like from the minute and accurate account we possess of a great and -famous Alpine landslip. I refer to that which buried part of the village -of Elm, in Canton Glarus, on 11th September 1881.[13] - -"Elm is the highest village in the Sernf Valley. Its position is fixed -by the proximity of a meadow-flat of considerable extent. Above this -three minor valleys radiate, two of which are separated from one another -by a mountain mass, whose last buttress was the Plattenbergkopf, a hill -with a precipitous side and a flat and wooded summit, which used to face -the traveller coming up the main valley. It was this hill that fell. - -"The cause of the fall was simple, and reflects little credit on Swiss -communal government. About half-way up the hill there dips into it a bed -of fine slate, excellent for school-slates. In the year 1868 concessions -were given by the commune for working this slate for ten years without -any stipulation as to the method to be employed. Immense masses of the -rock were removed. A hole was made 180 metres wide, and no supports were -left for the roof. It was pushed into the mountain to a depth of 65 -metres! In 1878, when the concessions lapsed, the commune, by a small -majority, decided to work the quarry itself. Every burgher considered -that he had a right to work in the quarry when the weather was -unsuitable for farm labour. The place was therefore overcrowded on wet -days, and burdened with unskilful hands. The quarry, of course, did not -pay, and became a charge on the rates, but between eighty and one -hundred men drew wages from it intermittently. - -"The roof by degrees became visibly rotten. Lumps of rock used to fall -from it, and many fatal accidents occurred. The mass of the mountain -above the quarry showed a tendency to grow unstable, yet blasting went -forward merrily, and no precautions were taken. Cracks opened overhead -in all directions; water and earth used to ooze down through them. -Fifteen hundred feet higher up, above the top of the Plattenbergkopf, -the ground began to be rifted. In 1876 a large crack split the rock -across above the quarry roof, and four years later the mass thus -outlined fell away. In 1879 serious signs were detected of coming ruin -on a large scale. A great crack split the mountain across behind the -top of the hill. The existence of this crack was well known to the -villagers, who had a special name for it. It steadily lengthened and -widened. By August 1881 it was over four metres wide, and swallowed up -all the surface drainage. Every one seems then to have agreed that the -mountain would ultimately fall, but no one was anxious. The last part of -August and the first days of September were very wet. On 7th September -masses of rock began to fall from the hill; more fell on the 8th, and -strange sounds were heard in the body of the rock; work was at last -suspended in the quarry. On the 10th a commission of incompetent people -investigated the hill, and pronounced that there was no immediate -danger. They, however, ordered that work should cease in the quarry till -the following spring, whereat the workmen murmured. All through the 10th -and the morning of the 11th falls of rock occurred every quarter of an -hour or so. Some were large. They kept coming from new places. The -mountain groaned and rumbled incessantly, and there was no longer any -doubt that it was rotten through and through. - -"The 11th of September was a wet Sunday. Rocks and rock-masses kept -falling from the Plattenberg. The boys of the village were all agog with -excitement, and could hardly be prevented by their parents from going -too near the hill. In the afternoon a number of men gathered at an inn -in the upper village, just at the foot of the labouring rocks, to watch -the falls. They called to Meinrad Rhyner, as he passed, carrying a -cheese from an alp, to join them, but he refused, 'not fearing for -himself, but for the cheese.' Another group of persons assembled in a -relative's house to celebrate a christening. A few houses immediately -below the quarry were emptied, but the people from them did not move -far. At four o'clock Schoolmaster Wyss was standing at his window, watch -in hand, registering the falls and the time of their occurrence. -Huntsman Elmer was on his doorstep looking at the quarry through a -telescope. Every one was more or less on the _qui vive_, but none -foresaw danger to himself. - -"Many of the people in the lower village, called Muesli, which was the -best part of a mile distant from the quarry, and separated from it by a -large flat area, were quite uninterested. They were making coffee, -milking cows, and doing the like small domestic business. - -"Suddenly, at a quarter past five, a mass of the mountain broke away -from the Plattenbergkopf. The ground bent and broke up, the trees upon -it nodded, and folded together, and the rock engulfed them in its bosom -as it crashed down over the quarry, shot across the streams, dashing -their water in the air, and spread itself out upon the flat. A -greyish-black cloud hovered for a while over the ruin, and slowly passed -away. No one was killed by this fall, though the _debris_ reached within -a dozen yards of the inn where the sightseers were gathered. The -inhabitants of the upper village now began to be a little frightened. -They made preparations for moving the aged and sick persons, and some of -their effects. People also came up from the lower villages to help, and -to see the extent of the calamity. Others came together to talk, and the -visitors who had quitted the inn returned to it. Some went into their -houses to shut the windows and keep out the dust. No one was in any -hurry. - -"This first fall came from the east side of the Plattenbergkopf; -seventeen minutes later a second and larger fall descended from the west -side. The gashes made by the two united below the peak, and left its -enormous mass isolated and without support. The second fall must have -been of a startling character, for Schoolmaster Wyss forgot his watch -after it. It overwhelmed the inn and four other houses, killed a score -of persons, and drove terror into all beholders, so that they started -running up the opposite hill. Oswald Kubli, one of the last to leave the -inn, saw this fall from close at hand. He was standing outside the inn -when he heard some one cry out: 'My God, here comes the whole thing -down!' Every one fled, most making for the Dueniberg. 'I made four or -five strides, and then a stone struck Geiger and he fell without a word. -Pieces from the ruined inn flew over my head. My brother Jacob was -knocked down by them.' Again a dark cloud of dust enveloped the ruin. As -it cleared off, Huntsman Elmer could see, through his glass, the people -racing up the hill (the Dueniberg) 'like a herd of terrified chamois.' -When they had reached a certain height most of them stood still and -looked back. Some halted to help their friends, others to take breath. - -"'Of those who were before me,' relates Meinrad Rhyner, 'some were for -turning back to the valley to render help, but I called to them to fly. -Heinrich Elmer was carrying boxes, and was only twenty paces behind me -when he was killed. There were also an old man and woman, who were -helping along their brother, eighty years old; they might have been -saved if they had left him. I ran by them, and urged them to hasten.' - -"Of all who took refuge on the Dueniberg, only six escaped destruction by -the third fall, and they held on their way, and went empty-handed. Ruin -overtook the kind and the covetous together. - -"At this time, before the third fall, fear came also upon the cattle. A -cow, grazing far down the valley, bellowed aloud and started running for -the hillside with tail out-straightened. She reached a place of safety -before her meadow was overwhelmed. Cats and chickens likewise saved -themselves, and two goats sought and found salvation on the steps of the -parsonage. - -"During the four minutes that followed the second fall every one seems -to have been running about, with a tendency, as the moments passed, to -conclude that the worst was over. Then those who were watching the -mountain from a distance beheld the whole upper portion of the -Plattenbergkopf, 10,000,000 cubic metres of rock, suddenly shoot from -the hillside. The forest upon it bent 'like a field of corn in the -wind,' before being swallowed up. 'The trees became mingled together -like a flock of sheep.' The hillside was all in movement, and 'all its -parts were playing together.' The mass slid, or rather shot down, with -extraordinary velocity, till its foot reached the quarry. Then the upper -part pitched forward horizontally, straight across the valley and on to -the Dueniberg. People in suitable positions could at this moment clearly -see through beneath it to the hillside beyond. They also saw the people -in the upper village, and on the Dueniberg, racing about wildly. No -individual masses of rock could be seen in the avalanche, except from -near at hand; it was a dense cloud of stone, sharply outlined below, -rounded above. The falling mass looked so vast that Schoolmaster Wyss -thought it was going to fill up the whole valley. A cloud of dust -accompanied it, and a great wind was flung before it. This wind swept -across the valley and overthrew the houses in its path 'like haycocks.' -The roofs were lifted first, and carried far, then the wooden portions -of the houses were borne bodily through the air, 'just as an autumn -storm first drives off the leaves and then the dead branches themselves -from the trees.' In many cases wooden ruins were dropped from the air on -to the top of the stone _debris_ when the fall was at an end. -Eye-witnesses say that trees were blown about 'like matches,' that -houses were 'lifted through the air like feathers,' and 'thrown like -cards against the hillside,' 'that they bent, trembled, and then broke -up like little toys' before the avalanche came to them. Hay, furniture, -and the bodies of men were mixed with the house-ruins in the air. Some -persons were cast down by the blast and raised again. Others were -carried through the air and deposited in safe positions; others, again, -were hurled upward to destruction and dropped in a shattered state as -much as a hundred metres away. Huntsman Elmer relates as follows: - -"'My son Peter was in Muesli (nearly a mile from the quarry) with his -wife and child. He sought to escape with them by running. On coming to a -wall, he took the child from his wife and leaped over. Turning round, he -saw the woman reach out her hand to another child. At that moment the -wind lifted him, and he was borne up the hillside. My married daughter, -also in Muesli, fled with two children. She held the younger in her arms -and led the other. This one was snatched away from her, but she found -herself, not knowing how, some distance up the hillside, lying on the -ground face downwards, with the baby beneath her, both uninjured.' - -"The avalanche, as has been said, shot with incredible swiftness -horizontally across the valley. It pitched on to the Dueniberg, struck it -obliquely, and was thus deflected down the level and fertile -valley-floor, which it covered in a few seconds, to the distance of -nearly a mile and over its whole width, with a mass of rock _debris_ -more than 30 feet thick. Most of the people on the hillside were -instantly killed, the avalanche falling on to them and crushing them -flat, 'as an insect is crushed into a red streak under a man's foot.' -Only six persons here escaped. Two of them were almost reached by the -rocks, the others were whirled aloft through the air and deposited in -different directions. One survivor describes how the dust-cloud overtook -him, 'and came between him and his breath!' He sank face downwards on -the ground, feeling powerless to go further. Looking back, he saw -'stones flying above the dust-cloud. In a moment all seemed to be over. -I stood up and climbed a few yards to a spring of water to wash out the -dust, which filled my mouth and nose' (all survivors on the Dueniberg had -the same experience). 'All round was dark and buried in dust.' - -"It was only when the avalanche had struck the Dueniberg and began to -turn aside from it--the work of a second or two--that the people in the -lower village, far down along the level plain, had any suspicion that -they were in danger. Twenty seconds later all was over. Some of them who -were on a bridge had just time to run aside, not a hundred yards, and -were saved, but most were killed where they stood. The avalanche swept -away half the village. Its sharply defined edge cut one house in two. -All within the edge were destroyed, all without were saved. Almost the -only persons wounded were those in the bisected house. Huntsman Elmer -with his telescope, and Schoolmaster Wyss with his watch, whose houses -were just beyond the area of ruin, beheld the dust-cloud come rolling -along, 'like smoke from a cannon's mouth, but black,' filling the whole -width of the flat valley to about twice the height of a house. The din -seemed to them not very great, and the wind, which, in front of the -cloud, carried the houses away like matchwood, did not reach them. -Others describe the crash and thunder of the fall as terrific; it -affected people differently. All agree that it swallowed up every other -sound, so that shrieks of persons near at hand were inaudible. The mass -seemed to slide or shoot along the ground rather than to roll. One or -two men had a race for life and won it, but most failed to escape who -were not already in a place of safety. Fridolin Rhyner, an -eleven-year-old boy, kept his head better than any one else in the -village, and succeeded in eluding the fall. He saw, too, 'how Kaspar -Zentner reached the bridge as the fall took place, and how he started -running as fast as he could, but was caught by the flood of rocks near -Rhyner's house; he jumped aside, however, into a field, limped across -it, got over the wall into the road, and so just escaped.' - -"The last phase of the catastrophe is the hardest to imagine, and was -the most difficult to foresee. The actual facts are these. Ten million -cubic metres of rock fell down a depth (on an average) of about 450 -metres, shot across the valley and up the opposite (Dueniberg) slope to a -height of 100 metres, where they were bent 25 deg. out of their first -direction, and poured, almost like a liquid, over a horizontal plane, -covering it, uniformly, throughout a distance of 1500 metres and over an -area of about 900,000 square metres to a depth of from 10 to 20 metres. -The internal friction of the mass and the friction between it and the -ground were insignificant forces compared with the tremendous momentum -that was generated by the fall. The stuff flowed like a liquid. No -wonder the parson, seeing the dust-cloud rolling down the valley, -thought it was only dust that went so far. His horror, when the cloud -cleared off and he beheld the solid grey carpet, beneath which one -hundred and fifteen of his flock were buried with their houses and their -fields, may be imagined. He turned his eyes to the hills, and lo! the -familiar Plattenbergkopf had vanished and a hole was in its place. - -"The roar of the fall ceased suddenly. Silence and stillness supervened. -Survivors stood stunned where they were. Nothing moved. Then a great cry -and wailing arose in the part of the village that was left. People began -to run wildly about, some down the valley, some up. As the dust-cloud -grew thinner the wall-like side of the ruin appeared. It was quite dry. -All the grass and trees in the neighbourhood were white with dust. Those -who beheld the catastrophe from a distance hurried down to look for -their friends. Amongst them was Burkhard Rhyner, whose house was -untouched at the edge of the _debris_. He ran to it and found, he said, -'the doors open, a fire burning in the kitchen, the table laid, and -coffee hot in the coffee-pot, but no living soul was left.' All had run -forth to help or see, and been overwhelmed--wife, daughter, son, son's -wife, and two grandchildren. 'I am the sole survivor of my family.' Few -were the wounded requiring succour; few the dead whose bodies could be -recovered. Here and there lay a limb or a trunk. On the top of one of -the highest _debris_ mounds was a head severed from its body, but -otherwise uninjured. Every dead face that was not destroyed wore a look -of utmost terror. The crushed remains of a youth still guarded with -fragmentary arms the body of a little child. There were horrors enough -for the survivors to endure. The memory of them is fresh in their minds -to the present day. - -"Such was the great catastrophe of Elm. The hollow in the hills, whence -the avalanche fell, can still be seen, and the pile of ruin against and -below the Dueniberg; but almost all the rest of the _debris_-covered area -has been reclaimed and now carries fields, which were ripening to -harvest when I saw them. The fallen rocks, some big as houses, have been -blasted level; soil has been carried from afar and spread over the ruin. -A channel, 40 feet deep or more, has been cut through it for the river, -so that the structure of the rock-blanket can still be seen. The roots -of young trees now grasp stones that took part in that appalling flight -from their old bed of thousands of years to their present place of -repose. The valley has its harvests again, and the villagers go about -their work as their forefathers did, but they remember the day of their -visitation, and to the stranger coming amongst them they tell the tragic -tale with tears in their eyes and white horror upon their faces." - - - - -CHAPTER XVIII - -SOME TERRIBLE EXPERIENCES - - -All must have noticed, summer after summer, in the daily papers, a -recital from time to time under some such heading as, "Perils of the -Alps," of a variety of disasters to Germans or Austrians on mountains -the names of which are unfamiliar to English people or even to English -climbers. Many young men, of little leisure and of slight means, develop -a passionate love for the peaks of their native land. The minor ranges -of Austria and Germany offer few difficulties to really first-class, -properly equipped parties, but nasty places can be found on most of -them, and the very fact that they do not boast of glaciers removes the -chief argument against solitary ascents. - -The Rax, near Vienna, is a mountain which can be reached in a few hours -from that city, and while a good path has been laid out to the summit, -many other routes requiring climbing--by climbing I mean the use of the -hands--are available for the hardier class of tourists. One route in -particular, that from the Kaiserbrunn through the Wolfsthal, appears to -be really difficult, and is unfit for a man to ascend alone unless he is -a climber of great skill. A terrible experience fell to the lot of a -young Viennese compositor, employed on the _Neue Freie Presse_, and by -name Emil Habl. He set out by himself to make the expedition referred -to, and, having fallen and broken his leg, he managed, thanks to his -pluck and endurance, to escape with his life. "Despite injuries which -made it impossible for him to stand," says a writer in one of Messrs -Newnes' publications, from which I am courteously permitted to quote, -"he yet succeeded in conveying himself from the scene of his accident -into the valley in the neighbourhood of human dwellings. Three dreadful -days and three awful nights lasted that memorable descent--a descent -which can easily be made in two hours by any one able to walk. It may -almost certainly be said that the case is without a parallel in the -annals of Alpine accidents." - -Herr Habl had ascended the Rax on previous occasions, and twice before -by the Wolfsthal. It is the custom on many of the easier Austrian -mountains to mark the way by painted strips on the rocks. These are -sometimes very useful, but occasionally they tempt the tourist into -tracks which may be beyond his powers, or lure him on till, at last, -losing sight of them, he is induced to strike out a route--and perhaps -an impracticable one--for himself. The Wolfsthal route up the Rax is -marked in green, but the paint had worn off in many places, and after a -time Herr Habl could no longer trace it. At last the way was barred by a -precipice, but while pausing in uncertainty beneath it, the climber -noticed two iron clamps fixed far apart on the face of the cliff, and -argued that they must at one time have supported ladders and formed, -perhaps, part of a hunter's path. He made an attempt to scramble up the -rock, in spite of the absence of the ladder, but when more than 30 feet -up saw that it was impossible to scale it. He therefore determined to -return, but a loose stone, giving way beneath him, he was precipitated -from his precarious hold, and fell with a crash straight to the bottom. -This happened at about 7.30 A.M., and for a long time he lay -unconscious. When he came to himself again he was suffering greatly. - -"The first thing I noticed," he says, "was a terrible pain in my right -leg, my head, and left side; I was also bleeding profusely from several -wounds. At the same time, considering the fearful fall I had had, I felt -thankful I had not been killed outright. On trying to get up I -discovered, to my utter horror, that I had broken my right shin-bone. It -was quite impossible to rise. The break was about 6 inches below the -knee, and at the first glance I knew it to be a very bad fracture. It -was what the doctors call an 'open' fracture--that is, the bone -projected through the skin." - -It was in vain that he shouted for help. Tourists seldom pass that way, -and it was useless to expect any one to hear him. To make matters worse, -the weather had changed, and rain now fell heavily. But Herr Habl did -not lose courage. He writes: "Unless I wanted miserably to die a -long-drawn-out, hideous death from hunger and thirst, I knew _I must -save myself_. I decided not to lose another moment in fruitless -brooding, and waiting, and shouting, but to act at once. - -"I perceived that first of all I must set my broken leg and bandage it -in some rough fashion. In spite of the agony it caused me, I rolled over -and over the ground in different directions like a bale of goods--a few -yards here and a few yards there--until I had collected a sufficient -quantity of fallen branches, bits of fir and moss; this strange -collecting process took me some hours. The next thing was to tear off -the sleeves of my shirt and such other parts of my underwear as I could -spare. On my mountain excursions I always took with me a box containing -iodoform gauze and cambric; and now these things were more than welcome. - -"At last, then, I was ready to begin the operation. But, good heavens, -what agony! My deadliest enemy I would not wish such excruciating pains -as I suffered when setting the poor splintered bone--which, be it -remembered, was not broken straight across. The dreadful splinters, -indeed, dug deep into my flesh. Not regarding the pain (although nearly -fainting therewith) I exerted my whole force, and at last succeeded in -getting the bone into what, as far as I could judge, was its right -position. Then I wound the iodoform gauze round it, and over that I put -the cambric, the bits of underclothing, and a layer of moss. Next in the -queer operation came my alpenstock and some boughs in place of splints; -and finally I tied the whole together with the string, my hat-line, and -neck-tie." - -During the rest of the day the agonising descent continued, down rocks -which were difficult even for a sound man to ascend. As evening -approached Herr Habl bethought him of the need of food, but, alas! all -was gone from his knapsack, doubtless left at the spot where the -bandages had been put on. To regain this point was out of the question, -so berries and leaves were resorted to, to appease the craving of -hunger. - -That night was passed in pain and weariness. The rain never ceased, the -poor wounded man was soaked to the skin. The next day, from dawn to dark -the fearful descent continued, and was followed by another night of -indescribable misery. The morning after Herr Habl could hardly drag -himself a yard, and the temptation to lie down and await the end was -very great. Still, for the sake of his parents at home, he continued his -efforts, though bleeding now from the contact of the sharp rocks over -which he pushed himself in a half-lying, half-sitting posture. By four -o'clock that afternoon it seemed as if human endurance could bear no -more, and for two hours he lay in an awful apathy he could not shake -off. Then, when all hope seemed over, help came, for he heard the sound -of human voices, and this so stirred him that once more he began to -crawl downward, though unable to obtain any reply to his cries for -assistance. Another night passed, and during it, for the first time, he -got some sleep. The next morning, he once more dragged his poor -lacerated body downwards and at last came in sight of some houses. -Calling feebly for help, he was delighted beyond measure to receive an -answer, and soon he was carried to Hotel Kaiserbrunn, and the same -evening transported to the hospital at Vienna. He concludes his most -interesting account by remarking: "I do not think that my accident, -terrible as it is, has cured me of my love of mountaineering. But -certainly the remembrance of those three terrible days and nights will -deter me from again undertaking difficult climbs by myself." - -[Illustration: A GLACIER LAKE. By Royston Le Blond.] - -[Illustration: TAKING OFF THE ROPE AT THE END OF THE CLIMB.] - -[Illustration: AMONGST THE SERACS.] - -[Illustration: WATER AT LAST. - -_To face p. 297._] - -An adventure, having a happier termination, befell some friends of mine -in the Bregaglia group, owing to the marking of a route with paint. -The district was but little known to them, so they were glad to follow -where the marks led. One of the party, writing in _The Alpine Journal_, -says: - -"The descent began by a grass ledge. After a few yards this was suddenly -closed by overhanging rocks. Francois, who was first, appeared to us to -plunge down a precipice. He answered our criticism by pointing to the -red triangles. They indicated the only means of advance. It was -requisite to go down a dozen feet of nearly vertical rock by the help of -two grass tufts, and then for several yards to walk across a horizontal -crack which gave foot-hold varying from 2 inches to nothing. Nominal -support--help in balance--could be gained at first by digging axes into -grass overhead; further on hand-hold was obtainable. Francois walked -across without a moment's hesitation, but we did not despise the rope. -This _mauvais pas_ would not, perhaps, trouble younger cragsmen. It came -upon us unprepared and when somewhat tired. But to indicate a route -including such an obstacle to unsuspecting tourists as a Station Path is -surely rash. A practical joke that may lead to fatal results should only -be resorted to under exceptional circumstances--as, for example, in the -case of an hotel bore. There can be little doubt that in this instance -the Milanese section entrusted their paint-pot to a conscious, if -unconscientious, humorist; for we found afterwards that he had continued -his triangles through the village, along the high road, and finished up -only on the ticket office." - -The following terrible experience did not, it is true, happen to a party -of mountaineers, but as _The Alpine Journal_, from which I take my -account, has considered a notice of it appropriate to its pages, I -include it amongst my tales. - -"A distinguished aeronaut, Captain Charbonnet, of Lyons, married a young -girl from Turin. On the evening of their wedding, in October, 1893, they -set out in Captain Charbonnet's balloon 'Stella,' and covered about 10 -miles on their way towards Lyons. - -"Next morning, accompanied by two young Italians named Durando and -Botto, one of whom had made many previous ascents with Captain -Charbonnet, they started again. Stormy weather seemed to be brewing, and -after rising to a height of 3000 metres they were caught in a current. -At Saluggia they nearly touched ground, then leapt up again to 4000, and -presently to 6000 metres. About 2.30 P.M. the balloon began to descend -rapidly, and they had some difficulty in stopping it at 3000 metres. - -[Illustration: The balloon "Stella" starting from Zermatt to make the -first passage of the Alps by balloon. - -_To face page 293._] - -[Illustration: A moment after the balloon started.] - -"Here they were in dense clouds, and bitterly cold; quite ignorant, -moreover, of their position. Captain Charbonnet made his crew lie -down in the car, himself leaning out in order to try if he could catch a -glimpse of any point from which he could learn his bearings. The balloon -was drifting at a great rate, and nothing could be done to check it. -Presently there was a shock, and Captain Charbonnet was thrown to the -bottom of the car, by a heavy blow over his left eye. - -"The balloon rebounded, and dashing across a gully struck the other side -of it, and it finally settled down on a steep rocky spur on the east -side of the Bessanese (3632 metres = 11,917 feet), just above the small -glacier of Salau. It had struck the wall of the mountain which faces the -Rifugio Gastaldi, at a height of about 3000 metres (9843 feet). - -"The aeronauts reached the ground a good deal shaken and bruised, but -none of them, except the leader, suffering from any serious injuries.... -Their sole provision was one bottle of wine; but they were fairly well -off for covering, and they cut up the balloon to supply deficiencies. In -the night a violent storm came on, to add to their misery. In spite of -his injuries, Captain Charbonnet kept up the spirits of his companions -as well as might be, but towards morning his powers failed, and when day -dawned his young wife, a girl of eighteen, had some difficulty in -bringing him round. - -"They started to descend the snow-slope, Durando going first, and making -steps to the best of his power with his feet 'and with a long key which -he happened to have in his pocket.' Of course they had neither nails nor -poles; and, by a fatal imprudence, they did not tie themselves together, -though ropes must have been in plenty in the wreck of the balloon. - -"Presently Charbonnet slipped. He was held up by his wife and Botto; but -a few minutes later he disappeared into a hidden crevasse. The others -could see him far below, but as he neither moved nor answered their -call, they rightly assumed that he was beyond the reach of any human -help, and proceeded downwards. - -"With infinite difficulty, owing to their utter ignorance of the -country, and after another night spent in the open air, they found a -path which brought them to the hut under the Rocca Venoni. Thence a -shepherd guided them to the Cantina della Mussa, where they were at -first taken for deserters or spies; the lady, it should be said, had -been obliged to put on a suit of her husband's clothes, her own having -been torn to pieces. - -"The sight of her hair and bracelets convinced the inhabitants of the -true state of the case; a telegram was sent to Turin, and a message to -Balme, and a search party came up from the latter place in the -afternoon. Captain Charbonnet's body was recovered the next day. It was -found at the bottom of a crevasse more than 60 feet deep, and completely -doubled up; but medical examination showed that his death was primarily -due to the injury received when the balloon first struck." - -The first passage of the Alps by balloon was made in September 1903, by -Captain Spelterini, of Zuerich, accompanied by Dr Hermann Seiler and -another friend. They started from Zermatt, crossed the Mischabel group, -passed over the valley of Saas, then rose above the Weissmies range, and -approached the Lago Maggiore so closely that they were able to converse -with the passengers of a steamer. They then rose again and spent the -night above the mountains not far from the Gotthard. The next day it -would have been possible to clear the Bernese Alps and descend somewhere -near Lucerne, but though Dr Seiler, who is a climber and was fully -equipped for a descent above the snow line, urged the attempt being made -to cross the chain, Captain Spelterini and his friend, unused to the -aspect of the higher peaks, considered it more prudent to descend, and -so the expedition came to an end after twenty hours aloft, during which -no discomfort from cold was experienced. - -When an accident happens in the Alps involving loss of life, it is not -difficult to learn whatever facts may be known with regard to it, but -when climbers have a narrow escape from death the occurrence is often -hushed up and nothing said or written about the matter. And yet it is -just the narrow escapes that furnish the most interesting Alpine -narratives. Amongst them are few more exciting than a mishap on the -Matterhorn which happened in 1895, and is admirably described by an -onlooker, Mr Ernest Elliot Stock, in the pages of one of Messrs Newnes' -periodicals, from which I am courteously permitted to quote a portion of -the tale. - -Mr Stock's party consisted of himself, his sister, Mr Grogan (the -well-known traveller who first crossed Africa from South to North), Mr -Broadbent, and the guides, P. A. and Alois Biner, Peter Perrin, and -Zurmatter. An American of no climbing experience, with Joseph Biner and -Felix Julen, was on the mountain at the same time, and both parties -having made the ascent by the ordinary route, were coming down the same -way, and had descended in safety to just below "Moseley's Platte" when -the incident which so nearly cost them their lives took place. They were -on a steep slope, and the American party was slightly in advance. Mr -Stock writes: - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE HOeRNLI RIDGE.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE FURGG GLACIER.] - -[Illustration: JOSEPH BINER.] - -[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN HUT. - -_To face p. 302_] - -"We had been working slowly, and at a slight zig-zag, down this for some -150 feet, only one member of the party moving at a time, and keeping -carefully within the steps cut by the leader, when suddenly a flat -stone, some 6 inches across, became detached from a small pile either to -the side of or directly behind me--possibly loosened by our passage or -picked up by the rope as it tautened between myself and Peter Biner, who -came next. Peter's cry of warning was echoed by his brother at the tail -of the party, and I half turned to see it slipping past on the right. - -"Reaching out with my axe I endeavoured to stop it, but its impetus had -become too great. Getting upon its edge it rolled and struck a small -rock; then jumped some 20 feet down the ice-slope, narrowly missing -Perrin and 'America,' and struck again upon a larger and flatter rock, -when, amidst a flight of smaller stones, it bounded outwards and -downwards, striking the leading guide, Joseph Biner, full and square on -the head. He fell as though he had been shot, dragging 'America' after -him amidst a perfect shower of snow and stones. Julen, who came third, -with the greatest presence of mind drove his ice-axe hard and deep into -the ice, took a turn round it with his left arm, and, though dragged -violently from his steps, to our intense relief held on. - -"But we were in an awkward plight. Poor Joseph half lay, half hung, -without movement, at the end of some 30 feet of rope, bleeding copiously -from a deep gash in the head and another across the forehead caused by -his fall; 'America' clung to a small rock projecting from the snow, -beating a tattoo with his boots on the ice and wailing dismally; Julen -held the two by favour of his ice-axe and firmly planted feet only. For -a space no one moved, excepting to get such anchorage as was possible -upon the spur of the moment, each expecting a rope-jerk, the forerunner -of a swift and battered end in the ice-fall of the Furgg Glacier -thousands of feet below. - -"The guides for a time seemed utterly stunned by the catastrophe, and to -all suggestions could only reply with muttered prayers and exclamations. -So exasperating did this become at last, with the thought of the man -below bleeding to death, if not dead already, that Mr Grogan, who had -vainly been endeavouring to bring the guides to a sense of the position, -quietly slipped the rope, and, amid a storm of protest from them, -traversed out some distance to avoid a patch of loose stones, and -descended inwards again, cutting his steps as he went, till he reached a -spot immediately below the wounded man. Poor Joseph hung with his head -buried in a patch of snow, and in an extremely awkward position to reach -from above. Mr Grogan, however, refused to be daunted by the -difficulties, and we were treated to a fine piece of ice-craft during -his descent." - -After a little time Mr Grogan managed to cut a seat in the slope of ice -and placing the still breathing but insensible man in it, he bandaged -the wounds on his head, and before long had the satisfaction of seeing -him recover his senses. With great difficulty, as he was very weak and -shaken, poor Joseph was helped down the mountain, and at last every one -arrived safe and sound at the lower hut. - -There is no doubt that Joseph owed his life to Mr Grogan's skill, -promptness, and courage. Had the travellers in the party following -"America's" been of the usual type of tourist, who is hauled up and let -down the Matterhorn, one dare not think what would probably have been -the result, for the description Mr Stock gives of the behaviour of his -guides seems in no way exaggerated. I edit this account in sight of the -very spot where the accident occurred, and I have made careful enquiries -here as to the accuracy of the story, and am assured that it is true in -every detail. It is a pleasure to feel that a fellow-countryman should -show so brilliant an example to those who were not willing and probably -would have hardly been able to rescue their comrade, although to attempt -such a task was one of the prior obligations of their profession. - -To be bombarded by falling stones in the Alps is bad enough. To be -hurled from one's foot-hold by a flock of eagles seems to me even more -appalling. Though on one occasion, when on the slopes of a bleak and -rocky peak in Lapland, in company with my husband, a pair of eagles came -screaming so close to us that we drove them away by brandishing our -ice-axes and throwing stones at them, I did not till recently believe -that there could be positive danger to a climbing party from an -onslaught by these birds. It was only a few weeks ago that taking up one -of Messrs Newnes' publications I came upon an account of a tragedy in -the Maritime Alps caused by an attack from eagles. On applying to the -editor of the magazine in question, he kindly allowed me to make some -extracts from a striking article by Mons. Antoine Neyssel. This -gentleman with a friend, Mons. Joseph Monand, was making a series of -ascents in the Maritime Alps with Sospello as their headquarters. From -here they took a couple of guides and got all ready for a climb on the -following morning, 23rd July. During the evening the amazing news -reached them that a postman, while crossing a high pass, had been -attacked and nearly killed by eagles. They at once went into the cottage -where the poor man lay unconscious on two chairs, a pool of blood -beneath him and his clothes torn to ribbons. A few days later he died -from the terrible injuries he had received. - -Though much shocked at the sad event, the climbers believed that their -party of four would be quite safe, for each man had an ice-axe and some -carried rifles. So the next morning they set out, and, ascending higher -and higher, reached the glacier and put on the rope. They had forgotten -all about the ferocious birds when suddenly, as they traversed the upper -edge of a crevasse near the summit of their peak, the leading guide -stopped with an exclamation of horror. Close to them the ground was -strewn with feathers and marked with blood, doubtless the spot where the -postman was attacked. They passed on, however, and remembering that they -were a party of four, felt reassured. But soon after weird cries came to -their ears from below, followed by the whirr and beating of great wings. -Looking cautiously over the abyss, they saw a fight of eagles in -progress; feathers flew in the air and strange sounds came out of the -seething mass. It seemed to rise towards them, and in their insecure -position on the edge of a crevasse, they were badly placed to resist an -attack. The foot-hold was of frozen and slippery snow. Suddenly the -eagles burst up and around them. The guides immediately cut the rope and -each person did what he could to save himself. "Wherever possible," says -Mons. Neyssel, "we simply raced over the frozen snow like maniacs. In -another moment they dashed upon us like an avalanche. I heard a shot--I -suppose Monand fired, but I did not: I do not know why. The attack was -quite too dreadful for words. Speaking for myself, I remember that the -eagles struck me with stunning force with their wings, their hooked -beaks, and strong talons. Every part of my body seemed to be assailed -simultaneously. It was a fierce struggle for life or death. Strangely -enough, I remember nothing of what happened to my companions. I neither -saw nor heard anything of them after the first great rush of the eagles. -It is a miracle I was not hurled to death into the crevasse. - -"Do not ask me how long this weird battle lasted. It may have been five -or six minutes, or a quarter of an hour. I do not know. I grew feebler, -and felt almost inclined to give up the struggle, when the blood began -to trickle down my face and nearly blinded me. I knew that every moment -might be my last, and that I might be hurled into the crevasse. -Strangely enough, the prospect did not appal me. From this time onward I -defended myself almost mechanically, inclined every moment to give up -and lie down. - -"I gave no thought to the guides and my poor friend Monand. If I am -judged harshly for this, I regret it; but I could not help it. All at -once I heard loud, excited voices, but thought that these were merely -fantastic creations of my own brain. In a moment or two, however, I -could distinguish a number of men laying about them fiercely with -sticks, and beating off the eagles." - -The villagers, having watched the ascent through a telescope had come to -the rescue and had saved the lives of the writer and his two guides. His -poor friend, however, was dashed into the crevasse, at the bottom of -which his body was found five days later. - - - - -CHAPTER XIX - -FALLING STONES AND FALLING BODIES - - -I am indebted to the editor of _The Cornhill_ and the author of an -article entitled "The Cup and the Lip" for permission to reprint -portions of a paper containing much shrewd wisdom, several accounts of -narrow escapes, and withal of a wittiness and freshness that brings to -the reader a keen blast of Alpine air and the memory, if by chance he be -a climber, of his own early days upon the mountains. - -[Illustration: A HOT DAY IN SUMMER ON A MOUNTAIN TOP.] - -[Illustration: A SUMMIT NEAR SAAS.] - -[Illustration: LUNCHEON ON THE WAY TO THE HUT IN WINTER.] - -[Illustration: LUNCHEON IN SUMMER ON THE TOP OF A GLACIER PASS. - -_To face p. 310._] - -The writer, after remarking that even in these days when the traveller, -by the purchase of a few climbing requisites, is inclined to consider -himself a mountaineer before he has ever set foot on a peak, goes on to -say that, in reality, "for the most of us the craft is long to learn, -the conquering hard. And in the experience of many there are two -distinct phases. There is the time when, flushed with youth and victory, -you seem to go on from strength to strength, faster from year to year, -more confident in foot and hand, more scornful of the rope which you -have seen so often used, not as a means of safety, but as an -assistance to the progression of the weaker brethren, until one day your -foot unaccountably finds the step too small, or the bit of rock comes -away in your hand, or the outraged spirit of the mountains smites you -suddenly with a stone, and all is changed. Henceforth every well-worn -and half-despised precaution has a new meaning for you; it becomes a -point of honour to walk circumspectly, to turn the rope round every -helpful projection when the leader moves, and to mark and keep your -distance; and you begin to catch a little of the wisdom of your fathers. -It is not until the slip comes--as it comes to all--that you believe a -slip is possible; and were it not for slips the continual advance of cup -to lip might become in time monotonous and irksome, and mountaineering -nothing but a more laborious and elaborate form of walking up a damp -flight of stairs. But when it has come, and there has passed away the -result of the consequent shock to your self-esteem, and to other even -more sensitive portions of your person, there succeeds a new pride of -achievement, and you will have the advantages of the converted sinner -over the ninety-and-nine just persons whose knickerbockers are still -unriven. Furthermore, you will have commenced the graduate stage of your -mountaineering education. Unlucky, too, will you be if your experience -has not given you something more than a juster estimate of your own -moral and physical excellence; for your misfortune, if you have chosen -your companions aright, will suddenly turn your grumbling hireling into -a friend as gentle and as patient as a nurse, and disclose in those who -were your friends qualities of calm and steadfastness never revealed in -the fret of the valley; while, if you need wine and oil for your wounds, -when you reach home again, you will find in the inn some English doctor, -asking nothing better than to devote the best part of his holiday to the -gratuitous healing of the stranger. - -[Illustration: A TEDIOUS SNOW SLOPE TO ASCEND.] - -[Illustration: A SITTING GLISSADE AND A QUICK DESCENT.] - -[Illustration: A GLACIER-CAPPED SUMMIT.] - -[Illustration: ITALY TO THE LEFT, SWITZERLAND TO THE RIGHT. - -_To face p. 312._] - -"The form of my own awakening was not such as to require wine or oil or -consolation, and indeed, had I spoken of it at the time, would have -scarcely escaped ridicule. We had reached the summit of our pass, and -the guides and myself had decided that the steep wall of snow on the -further side was an admirable place for a glissade. Accordingly, we went -through the inevitable ritual of the summit, consumed as much sour bread -and wine as we could, with unerring inaccuracy applied the wrong names -to all the newly disclosed mountain-tops, adjusted the rope and prepared -for the descent. Unfortunately, we omitted to explain the particular -form of pleasure in which we were about to indulge to my companion, who -was ignorant alike of mountaineering and the German tongue. The result -was simple: the second guide, who was in front, set off with his feet -together and his axe behind him; I followed in as correct an imitation -of his attitude as I could induce my body to assume; but the novice -stood still on the crest of the pass to 'await in fitting silence the -event,' and the rope tightened. The jerk, after nearly cutting me in -two, laid me on my back in the snow, and was then transmitted to the -guide, who was also pulled off his feet and plunged head foremost down. -Our combined weights drew after us both my companion and the chief -guide, who was taken unawares, and both came crushing upon me. We rolled -over and over, mutually pounding one another as we rolled; hats and -spectacles and axes preceded us, and huge snowballs followed in our -wake, until, breathless and humiliated, we had cleared the _schrund_, -and came to an ignominious halt on the flat snow below. - -"This was no very rude introduction to my climbing deficiencies, but -before the end of the season I had felt fear at the pit of my stomach. -We (that is A. T. and myself) had scrambled up an Austrian mountain, -and, on our way down, had come to where the little glacier intervenes -between the precipice and the little moraine heaps above the forest. The -glacier would hardly deserve the name in any other part of the Alps, so -small is it; but it makes up for what it lacks in size by its exceeding -steepness; the hardness of its ice, and the ferocity (if one may -attribute personal characteristics to Nature) of the rock walls which -keep in its stream on either hand, hem it in so closely that I think it -must be always in deep shadow, even in the middle of a June day. - -"Here you must cross it very nearly on a level, and then skirt down its -further side between ice and rock for a few feet before you come to a -suitable place for the crossing of the big crevasse below you; and then -a short slide down old avalanche _debris_ shoots you deliciously into -the sun again. The crossing of the glacier in the steps cut by the -numerous parties who have passed on previous days is an extremely simple -affair. But you must not hurry, for a slip could not be checked, and -would probably finish in the before-mentioned crevasse. We started, -however, in some fear; for a party ascending the mountains favoured us -with continual showers of stones of all sizes, and the higher they -climbed the more viciously came their artillery. Hence I was nervous and -apt to go carelessly when we reached the middle of the ice, and here the -noise began. I heard a strange, whizzing, whirring noise which sounded -strangely familiar, accompanied by a physical shiver on my part and a -curious knocking together of the knees; again and again it came, -followed each time by a slight dull thud; and, looking at the rocks -below us on each side, I saw a little white puff of dust rising at -every concussion. Then I knew why the sound seemed familiar. I was -reminded how, as a panting schoolboy, I had toiled up a long dusty road -to a certain down with a rifle much too large for me, in the vain hope -of shooting my third-class, and how, as we bruised our shoulders at the -200 yards' range, another young gentleman firing at the 400 yards at the -parallel range on the left, had mistaken his mark and fired across our -heads at the target beyond us on the right. Everything was present: the -indescribable whirring of the bullet, its horrible invisibility while it -flew, and the grey little cloud as it flattened itself on the white -paint of the target. The sensation was horrible, the tendency to hurry -irresistible, and but for my companion I should have risked slip and -crevasse and everything to get out of the line of fire. But my companion -remained absolutely steady; while he poured forth curses in every -language and every _patois_ ever spoken in the Italian Tyrol, he still -moved his feet as deliberately, improved the steps with as much care and -minuteness as if he were a Chamonix guide conducting a Frenchman on the -Mer de Glace. I know he felt the position as acutely as I did, for when, -a week later, we had to cross the same place under a similar fire, and -the third member of the party was sent on in front with a large rope to -recut the steps, he turned to me with impressive simplicity, and said, -'_Adesso e quello in grande pericolo_. If he is hit, we cannot save -him.' How long we took to cross I do not know. But when at last we -reached the other bank we cast the rope off with one impulse, and, -bending under the shelter of the rocks, ran where I had found climbing -hard in the morning, jumped the _bergschrund_, fell and rolled down the -snow under a final volley from the mountain, and lay long by the stream -panting and safe. - -"I suspect the danger here was far more apparent than real. My next -adventure with a falling stone was more real than I like to think of. -Four of us had been scrambling round the rocks beside the Ventina -Glacier, and were returning to our camp to lunch. By bad luck, as it -turned out, I reached level ground first, and, lying on my back amongst -great boulders, watched with amusement the struggles of my companions -who were about a hundred feet above me, apparently unable to get up or -down. They were screaming to me, but the torrent drowned their voices, -and I smoked my pipe in contentment. _Suave mari magno._ At last they -moved, and with them the huge rock which they had been endeavouring to -uphold and shouting to me to beware of. It crashed down towards me, but -I determined to stop where I was. The roughness of the ground would have -hindered my escape to any distance, and I calculated on stepping quickly -aside when my enemy had declared himself for any particular path of -attack. So I did, but the stone at that moment broke in pieces, and, -quick as I was with desperation, one fragment was quicker still. It -caught me, glancing as I turned between the shoulder and the elbow, only -just touching me, as I suppose, for the bone was quite unhurt. Up I went -into the air and down I came among the stones, with all the wind knocked -out of me, large bruises all over me, not hurt, but very much -frightened. - -[Illustration: UNPLEASANT GOING OVER LOOSE STONES.] - -[Illustration: ON THE CREST OF AN OLD MORAINE. - -_To face p. 317._] - -"Such experiences as this leave no very lasting impression, and might -just as easily happen were the party accompanied by the best of guides. -But I hardly think that any guide would have been crack-brained enough -to take part in two expeditions which taught me what it feels like to -slip on rock and ice respectively. The first slip took place during the -winter. With one companion I was climbing in a long and not very -difficult gully on a Welsh mountain. The frost had just broken, and -there was more water in the pitches than was quite pleasant. It was very -cold water, and my hands, which had been frost-bitten the week before, -were still swathed in bandages. Hence progress was very slow, and at -last my friend took the lead to spare me. He was climbing over a big -overhanging stone jammed between the walls of the gully and forming an -excellent spout for the water, which was thus poured conveniently down -his neck. I stood on the shelving floor of the gully in perfect safety, -and watched the shower-bath, which was gradually exhausting him. He -asked for his axe, and I, in a moment of madness, came near and handed -it up; his legs, which were all I could then see of him, were kicking in -the water about 5 feet above my head. What happened next I do not know, -but I shall always maintain that, seeing an eligible blade of grass -above him, he plunged the adze in and hauled with both hands. The blade -resented such treatment, and came out. Anyhow he fell on my head, and we -commenced a mad career down the way we had ascended, rather rolling than -falling, striking our heads and backs against the rocks, and apparently -destined for the stony valley upon which we had looked down between our -legs for hours. People who have escaped drowning say that, in what was -their struggle for life, their minds travelled back over their whole -history. I know that my brain at this moment suddenly acquired an -unusual strength. In a few seconds we were safe, but in those seconds -there was time for centuries of regret. There was no fear; that was to -come later. But I felt vividly that I was present as a spectator of my -own suicide, and thought myself a feeble kind of fool. Had it been on -the Dru or the Meije, I thought, it might have been worth it, but, -half-drowned, to plunge a poor 40 feet over the next pitch on a hill -not 3000 feet high, with a carriage road in sight, and a girl driving in -the cows for milking in Nant Francon! We did not roll far, and stuck -between the walls of the gully, where they narrowed. Then I arose and -shook myself, unhurt. My companion made me light his pipe, which cheered -me very much, and we each partook of an enormous mutton sandwich. Help -was near, for another party of three was climbing in the next gully, and -came to our shouts; one ran down to the farm for a hurdle, the rest -began the descent. For hours we seemed to toil, for my companion, though -with admirable fortitude he supported the pain of movement, had -temporarily no power over his legs and the lower part of his body. I -could do little, but the others worked like blacks, and just at dark we -reached the farm and the ministrations of a Welsh doctor, who told my -friend, quite erroneously, that there was nothing the matter with him, -pointed out a swelling on my face as big as a pigeon's egg, which, he -said, would probably lead to erysipelas, and then departed into the -darkness. - -"A fall on ice has something in it more relentless, though, until the -last catastrophe, less violent. We had all been victims to the -flesh-pots of the valley, and were, perhaps, hardly fit for a long -ice-slope, when we began to cut up the last few feet to gain the _arete_ -of our mountain. The incline seemed to me very steep, and, third on the -rope, I was watching the leader at his labours, half pitying him for his -exertions, half envying him his immunity from the ice fragments which he -was sending down to me. Below me the fourth man had barely left the -great flat rock on which we had breakfasted; there was no reason to -think of danger; when to my horror I saw the leader cut a step, put out -his foot slowly, and then very slowly and deliberately sway over and -fall forwards and downwards against the ice. We were in a diagonal line, -but almost immediately beneath one another, and he swung quietly round -like a pendulum, his axe holding him to the slope, until he was -immediately beneath the second man. Very slowly, as it seemed, the rope -grew taut; the weight began to tug at his waist; and then he, too, -slowly and reflectively in the most correct mountaineering attitude, as -though he were embarking upon a well-considered journey, began to slide. -Now was the time for me to put into practice years of patient training. -I dug my toes in and stiffened my back, anchored myself to the ice, and -waited for the strain. It was an unconscionable time coming, and, when -it came, I still had time to think that I could bear it. Then the weight -of 27 stone in a remorseless way quietly pulled me from my standpoint, -as though my resistance were an impudence. Still, like the others, I -held my axe against the ice and struggled like a cat on a polished -floor, always seeing the big flat rock, and thinking of the bump with -which we should bound from it, and begin our real career through the -air; when suddenly the bump came and we all fell together in a heap on -to the rock and the fourth man, who had stepped back upon it, my -crampons running into his leg, and my axe, released from the pressure, -going off through the air on the very journey which I had anticipated -for us all. The others were for a fresh attack on the malicious -mountain; but I was of milder mood, and very soon, torn and wiser, we -were off on a slower but more convenient path to the valley than had -seemed destined for us a few minutes before. But our cup was not yet -full. Having no axe with which to check a slip, I was placed at the head -of the line, and led slowly down, floundering a good deal for want of my -usual support. The great couloir was seamed across with a gigantic -crevasse, the angle of the slope being so sharp that the upper half -overhung, and we had only crossed in the morning by standing on the -lower lip, cutting hand-holes in the upper, and shoving up the leader -from the shoulder of the second man: hence, in descending, our position -was similar to that of a man on the mantel-shelf who should wish to -climb down into the fire itself. We chose the obvious alternative of a -jump to the curb, which was, I suppose, about 15 feet below us and made -of steep ice with a deep and deceptive covering of snow. I jumped and -slid away with this covering, to be arrested in my course by a rude -jerk. I turned round indignant; but my companions were beyond my -reproaches. One by one, full of snow, eloquent, and bruised, they issued -slowly from the crevasse into which I had hurled them, and, heedless of -the humour of the situation, gloomily urged me downwards. - -"Some hours still passed before we reached our friendly Italian hut, -left some days before for a raid into Swiss territory; there on the -table were our provisions and shirts as we had left them, and a solemn -array of bottles full of milk carried up during our absence by our -shepherd friends; and there, on the pile, in stinging comment on our -late proceedings, lay a slip of paper, the tribute of some Italian -tourist, bearing the inscription 'Omaggio ai bravi Inglesi ignoti.' We -felt very much ashamed. - -"When the soup has been eaten and the pipes are lighted, and you sit -down outside your hut for the last talk before bed, you will find your -guides' tongues suddenly acquire a new eloquence, and, if you are a -novice at the craft, will be almost overwhelmed by the catalogue of -misfortune which they will repeat to you. And so, too, upon us in the -winter months comes the temptation to dwell on things done long ago and -ill done, and, as we write of the sport for others, we give a false -impression of peril and hardihood in things that were little more than -matter for a moment's laughter. I too must plead guilty to a well-meant -desire to make your flesh creep. - -[Illustration: AN AWKWARD BIT OF CLIMBING.] - -[Illustration: GUIDES AT ZERMATT.] - -[Illustration: A LARGE PARTY FOR A SMALL HUT.] - -[Illustration: AU REVOIR. - -_To face p. 322._] - -"Mountaineering by skilled mountaineers is about as dangerous as hunting -in a fair country, and requires about as much pluck as to cross from the -Temple to the Law Courts at midday. Difficult mountaineering is for the -unskilled about as dangerous as riding a vicious horse in a steeplechase -for a man who has never learnt to ride. But the tendency in those who -speak or write of it for the outer world who are not mountaineers is to -conceal a deficiency of charm of style by an attempt to slog in the -melodramatic, and I plead guilty at once. - -"So we think and write as though to us our passion for the hills were a -fancy of the summer, a mere flirtation. Yet no one has lost the first -bloom of his delight in Alpine adventure before the element of sternness -has come to mar his memory and bind more closely his affections. You -find the mildly Horatian presence of death somewhere near you, and that -at a moment when, whatever your age and strength, and whatever your -infirmities, you are at the full burst of youth; when Nature has been -kindest she has been most capricious, and has flaunted her relentless -savagery just when she has bent to kiss you. The weirdest rocks rise -from Italian gardens, and the forms of hill seem oldest when you are -most exultant--immortal age beside immortal youth. Yet is it not this, -'the sense of tears,' in things which are not mortal which must mark -your Alpine paths with memories as heavy and as definite as those -inscriptions which tell of obscure and sudden death on every hillside, -and invite your prayers for the woodcutter and the shepherd? You too -will have seen friends go out into the morning whom you have never -welcomed home. There is a danger, sometimes encountered recklessly, -sometimes ignorantly, but sometimes--hard as it may be to understand the -mood--not in the mere spirit of the idle youth, but met with and -overcome, or overcoming, in a resolution which knows no pleasure in -conquest save when the essay is fierce, and is calmly willing to pay the -penalty of failure. While for ourselves we enjoy the struggle none the -less because we have taken every care that we shall win, they freely -give all; and for such there is surely no law. While by every precept -and example we impress the old rules of the craft on our companions and -our successors, how can we find words of blame for those who have at -least paid the extreme forfeit, and found 'the sleep that is among the -lonely hills'? - -"The penalty for failure is death; not always exacted at the first -slip, for Nature is merciful and ofttimes doth relent; but surely -waiting for those who scorn the experience of others and slight her -majesty in wilfulness, in ignorance, in the obstinate following of a -fancy, in the vain pursuit of notoriety. The rules are known, and those -who break them, and by precept and example tempt to break them those -whom they should teach, wrong the sport which they profess to love. - -"In this game as in any other, it should be a point of honour for us not -to make the sport more difficult for others, and not to bring -unnecessary sorrow upon the peasants, who help us to play it, and upon -their families. It should be a point of honour to play the game, and, if -disaster comes in playing it, we have at least, done our best." - - - - -GLOSSARY - - -ALP A mountain pasture, usually with chalets - tenanted only in summer. - -ARETE A ridge. - -BERGSCHRUND A crevasse between the snow adhering to - the rocks and the lower portion of the - glacier. - -COL A pass between two peaks. - - -COULOIR A gully, usually filled with snow or stones. - -CREVASSE A crack in a glacier, caused by the movement - of the ice over an uneven bed or - round a corner. - - -FIRN The snow of the upper regions, which is - slowly changing into glacier ice. - -GRAT A ridge. - -JOCH A pass between two peaks. - -KAMM A summit ridge. - -MORAINE An accumulation of stones and sand which - has fallen from bordering slopes on to - a glacier. Medial moraines are formed - by the junction of glaciers, their lateral - moraines joining. - -MOULIN A glacier mill, or shaft through the ice, - formed by a stream which has met a - crevasse in its course, and plunging - into its depths has bored a hole right - through the glacier and often into the - rock beneath. - -NEVE The French of _Firn_. (See Firn.) - -RUeCKSACK The bag type of canvas knapsack now invariably - used by guides and climbers. - -SCHRUND A crevasse. (See Crevasse.) - -SERAC A cube of ice, formed by transverse crevasses, - and found where a glacier passes over - steep rocks. This part of a glacier is - called an ice-fall. - - - - -INDEX - - -A - -Abruzzi, Duke of, 8 - -Adine Col, 108 - -AEggischhorn, 257 - -Ailefroide, 228, 245 - -Aitkins, Mr, 162 - -Aletsch Glacier, 125 - -Aletschhorn, avalanche on, 55 - -Almer, Christian, 223, 237 - -Almer, Ulrich, 55 - -Andenmatten, 108 - -Anderegg, Jacob, 126, 127 - -Anderegg, Melchior, 125, 212 - -Andermatten, Franz, 202 - -Arbuthnot, Mrs, 257 - -Arc, Valley of, 266 - -Aren Glacier, 57, 61 - -Arlberg Pass, 61 - -Arolla, 168 - -Arves, Aiguilles d', 248 - -Asti, 265 - - -B - -Baker, Mr, 134 - -Balloon (crossing Alps), 298 - -Balme, 300 - -Bans, Les, 228 - -Baumann, Hans, 127 - -Bean, Mr, 136 - -Bennen, 57 - -Bergemoletto, 65 - -Bergli Hut, 210 - -Bessanese, 299 - -Bettega, 183 - -Biner, Alois and P., 302 - -Biner, Joseph, 204, 302 - -Blaitiere, Aiguille de, 26, 37 - -Blanc, Mont, 136, 153 - -Blanche, Dent, 51, 152, 167 - -Boeufs Rouges, 228 - -Bohren, 58 - -Boniface, 265 - -Bonvoison, Pic de, 226 - -Botto, 298 - -Bregaglia group, 296 - -Brenner, 136 - -Brewer, Mrs, 61 - -Bricolla chalets, 168 - -Bristenstock, 164 - -Broadbent, Mr, 302 - -Bruce, Major, 59 - -Brulle, Mons. H., 260 - -Burckhardt, Mr, 208 - -Burchi peak, 59 - -Burgener, Alexander, 104, 202 - - -C - -Ca d'Asti, 265 - -Carr, Mr Ellis, 23 - -Carrel, J. A., 21 - -Caucasus, 58, 99, 116 - -Cenis, Mont, 264 - -Cerbillonas, the, 260 - -Chamonix, 8, 23, 126, 153 - -Charbonnet, Captain, 298 - -Charmoz ridge, 50 - -Claret, 258 - -Clayton, Captain, 261 - -Collie, Dr Norman, 134 - -Constance, 60 - -Conway, Sir W. M., 155, 275 - -Copland Valley, 4 - -Croz, Michel, 222, 238 - - -D - -Dauphine, 11 - -Dent, Mr C. T., 99, 116, 142, 202 - -Devas, Mr J. F. C., 144 - -Dixon, Mr H. B., 133 - -Dolomites, 182 - -Dom, 52 - -Donkin, Mr W. F., 58, 99, 116 - -Dora Riparia, Valley of, 266 - -Dueniberg, 282 - -Durand Glacier, 204 - -Durando, 298 - -Dych Tau, 105 - - -E - -Ecrins, 228, 235 - -Ecrins, Col des, 225 - -Eiger, 264 - -Elbruz, 115 - -Elm, landslip of, 275 - -Elmer, Huntsman, 280 - -Encula, Glacier de l', 246 - -Etancons, Val des, 11 - - -F - -Fellenberg, E. Von, 212 - -Ferard, Mr A. G., 144 - -Fitzgerald, Mr E., 3 - -Flender, Herr, 138 - -Foster, Mr G. E., 126 - -Fox, Mr, 116 - -Freshfield, Mr Douglas, 116 - -Fuerrer, Alphons, 8 - -Furrer, Elias, 167 - - -G - -Gabelhorn, Ober, 55 - -Gastaldi, Rifugio, 299 - -Gavarnie, 261 - -Geant, Dent du, 257 - -Geneva, Lake of, 37 - -Gentinetta, A., 8 - -Gentinetta, E., 206 - -Gestola, 99 - -Glace, Mer de, 8 - -Glarus, Canton, 277 - -Gohna Lake, 277 - -Grass, Hans, 55 - -Greenwood, Mr Eric, 154 - -Grogan, Mr, 302 - -Grove, F. Craufurd, 2 - -Gurkhas, 59 - - -H - -Habl, Herr Emil, 292 - -Hardy, Mr, 164 - -Hartley, Mr E. T., 166 - -Hill, Mr, 167 - -Himalayas, 58, 275 - -Hochjoch Haus, 261 - -Hohberghorn, 52 - -Hoernli, 9 - -Horrocks, D. P., 204 - - -I - -Imboden, Joseph, 52, 165, 195 - -Imboden, Roman, 195 - -Imseng, Ferdinand, 202, 267 - -Innsbruck, 60 - -Interlaken, 221 - - -J - -Jones, Mr Glynne, 167 - -Julen, Edouard, 206 - -Julen, Felix, 302 - -Jungfrau, 55, 210 - -Jungfrau Hut, 209 - - -K - -Kaiserbrunn, 292 - -Kennedy, Dr, 164, 222 - -King, Sir H. S., 208 - -Koenig, Herr, 138 - -Kubli, Herr Oswald, 281 - -Kurzras, 261 - - -L - -La Berarde, 11, 245 - -La Grave, 11 - -Langtauferer Glacier, 262 - -Lapland, 306 - -Lausanne, 37 - -Lucerne, 301 - -Lyons, 298 - - -M - -Maggiore, Lago, 301 - -Maithana Hill, fall of, 275 - -Maquignaz, 21 - -Maritime Alps, 305 - -Martino, St, 182 - -Matthews, Mr E. C., 211 - -Matterhorn, 8, 21, 248, 302 - -Maund, Mr, 11 - -Maund, Mrs, 11 - -Maurer, 11, 116 - -Meije, 12, 248 - -Meije, Breche de la, 12, 228 - -Middlemore, Mr, 11 - -Midi, Aiguille du, 126 - -Mischabel group, 301 - -Monand, Mons. J., 306 - -Moench, 124 - -Montanvert, 8 - -Moore, Mr A. W., 124, 222, 235 - -"Moseley's Platte," 302 - -Mouvoison, 142 - -Mueller Valley, 4 - -Mummery, Mr, 23, 58 - -Muerren, 208 - -Muesli, 280 - -Mussa, Cantina della, 300 - - -N - -Nant Francon, 319 - -Nantillons Glacier, 24 - -Neyssel, Mons. Antoine, 306 - -Noir, Glacier, 245 - - -O - -Oetzthal, 261 - -Offerer, J., 136 - -Ossoue, Valley of, 261 - - -P - -Palue, Piz, 55 - -Passingham, Mr, 202 - -Packe, Mr C., 259 - -Pelvoux, 245 - -Pelvoux, Crete du, 245 - -Perren, H., 138 - -Perren, P., 204 - -Pilatte, Col de la, 222 - -Plan, Aiguille du, 23 - -Plattenbergkopf, 277 - -Pourri, Mont, 267 - -Powell, Captain, 116, 123 - -Pyrenees, 259 - - -R - -Rax, the, 291 - -Renaud, Mons., 223 - -Rey, Emil, 8 - -Rhyner, Fridolin, 287 - -Rhyner, Meinrad, 280 - -Richardson, Miss, 165 - -Rocca Venoni, 300 - -Roccia, Family of, 68 - -Roche Melon, 264 - -Rocky Mountains, 133 - -Rodier, 11 - -Rosetta, 182 - -Rothhorn, Zinal, 195 - - -S - -Saas, Valley of, 301 - -Sahrbach, 134 - -Schaeffer, Dr, 136 - -Schildthorn, 257 - -Schuster, Mr, 162 - -Schwarzsee Hotel, 10 - -Sefton, Mount, 4 - -Seiler, Herr, 145, 162 - -Seiler, D. H., 301 - -Sernf Valley, 277 - -Silberhorn, 208 - -Skagastoeldstind, 140 - -Ski accident, 137 - -Slingsby, Mr Cecil, 23, 140, 152 - -Sloggett, Mr, 8 - -Smith, Mr Haskett-, 158 - -Solly, Mr, 156 - -Somis, Ignazio, 65 - -Sospello, 306 - -Spechtenhauser, 261 - -Spelterini, Captain, 301 - -Spender, Mr H., 167 - -Strahlplatten, 209 - -Stock, Mr E. E., 302 - -Stockje, 156 - -Supersax, Ambrose, 209 - -Susa, 265 - - -T - -Tavernaro, 183 - -Tetnuld Tau, 99 - -Toensberg, 141 - -Trift Valley, 195 - -Tuckett, Mr F., 55, 264 - -Tuckett Glacier, 5 - -Turin, 298 - - -U - -Uschba, 115 - - -V - -Vallon, Glacier du, 245 - -Vallot Hut, 153 - -Valtournanche, 21 - -Ventina Glacier, 316 - -Vignemale, 260 - -Viso, Monte, 269 - -Vuignier, Jean, 168 - - -W - -Walker, Mr, 223, 235 - -Walker, Mr Horace, 126 - -Wandfluh, 166, 179 - -Watson, Mr and Mrs, 257 - -Weisshorn, 248 - -Weisskugel, 261 - -Weissmies, 301 - -Wengern Alp, 124, 210 - -Willink, Mr, 123 - -Wildlahner Glacier, 136 - -Wolfsthal, 292 - -Woolley, Mr H., 116 - -Whymper, Mr E., 222, 235 - -Wyss, Schoolmaster, 280 - - -Z - -Zentner, Kaspar, 287 - -Zermatt, 10, 51, 139, 181, 301 - -Zmutt Glacier, 166, 179 - -Zurbriggen, 3, 59 - -Zurbriggen, Clemens, 168 - -Zurbruecken, Louis, 209 - -Zurmatter, 302 - - PRINTED AT THE EDINBURGH PRESS, - - 9 AND 11 YOUNG STREET - - -FOOTNOTES: - -[1] These are now known as Mummery nails, and are often used by climbers. - -[2] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, pp. 42 and 43. - -[3] Or, in modern phraseology, "avalanches." - -[4] Mountain aneroids generally overstate the heights. The height of -Gestola is now computed at 15,932 feet, and that of Tetnuld at 15,918 -feet. - -[5] "Good God! The Sleeping-place!" - -[6] "I am still living." - -[7] _Above the Snow Line_, by Clinton Dent. - -[8] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, p. 269. - -[9] _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_, p. 134. - -[10] At the moment of going to press, I must note a fatal accident on -the mountains due to lightning, namely, the death of the guide, Joseph -Simond, on the Dent du Geant. This I had overlooked. - -[11] See _True Tales of Mountain Adventure_. - -[12] "Ah! That is really wonderfully beautiful!" - -[13] All details connected with this avalanche were collected on the -spot, and shortly afterwards published in a volume, _Der Bergsturz von -Elm_, by E. Buss and A. Heim. Zuerich, 1881. - - * * * * * - -Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber: - -The baloon "Stella"=> The balloon "Stella" {pg xiv} - -sufficient to carry of the=> sufficient to carry off the {pg 82} - -Kaisserbrunn, 292=> Kaiserbrunn, 292 {index} - - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Adventures on the Roof of the World, by -Mrs. Aubrey Le Blond - -*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES *** - -***** This file should be named 43314.txt or 43314.zip ***** -This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: - http://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/3/1/43314/ - -Produced by Melissa McDaniel, Chuck Greif and the Online -Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This -file was produced from images generously made available -by The Internet Archive) - - -Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions -will be renamed. - -Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no -one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation -(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without -permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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