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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/4329-h.zip b/4329-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8b92b77 --- /dev/null +++ b/4329-h.zip diff --git a/4329-h/4329-h.htm b/4329-h/4329-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a1d319 --- /dev/null +++ b/4329-h/4329-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,9528 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<HTML> +<HEAD> + +<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> + +<TITLE> +The Project Gutenberg E-text of Two Expeditions in the Interior of Southern Australia, Volume II, +by Charles Sturt +</TITLE> + +<STYLE TYPE="text/css"> +BODY { color: Black; + background: White; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; + text-align: justify } + +P {text-indent: 4% } + +P.noindent {text-indent: 0% } + +P.poem {text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-size: small } + +P.letter {text-indent: 0%; + font-size: small ; + margin-left: 10% ; + margin-right: 10% } + +P.footnote {font-size: small ; + text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 0% ; + margin-right: 0% } + +P.intro {font-size: small ; + text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 5% ; + margin-right: 5% } + +P.finis { font-size: larger ; + text-align: center ; + text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 0% ; + margin-right: 0% } + +</STYLE> + +</HEAD> + +<BODY> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Two Expeditions in the Interior of Southern +Australia, Volume II, by Charles Sturt + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Two Expeditions in the Interior of Southern Australia, Volume II + +Author: Charles Sturt + +Release Date: June 29, 2009 [EBook #4329] +Release Date: August, 2003 +First Posted: January 8, 2002 +Last Updated: July 28, 2002 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWO EXPEDITIONS--SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA *** + + + + +Produced by Col Choat. HTML version by Al Haines. + + + + + +</pre> + + +<BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR <BR> +OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA, +<BR> +VOLUME II +</H2> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +by +</H3> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +Charles Sturt +</H2> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA DURING THE<BR> +YEARS 1828, 1829, 1830, 1831 WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOIL, CLIMATE AND<BR> +GENERAL RESOURCES OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES. +<BR><BR> +IN TWO VOLUMES +</H4> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +VOLUME II. +</H2> + +<BR> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +"For though most men are contented only to see a river as it runs by +them, and talk of the changes in it as they happen; when it is +troubled, or when clear; when it drowns the country in a flood, or +forsakes it in a drought: yet he that would know the nature of the +water, and the causes of those accidents (so as to guess at their +continuance or return), must find out its source, and observe with what +strength it rises, what length it runs, and how many small streams fall +in, and feed it to such a height, as make it either delightful or +terrible to the eye, and useful or dangerous to the country about +it."...SIR WILLIAM TEMPLE'S NETHERLANDS. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME +</H2> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +EXPEDITION DOWN THE MORUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY RIVERS, <BR> +IN 1829, 1830 AND 1831. +</H3> + +<BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap01">CHAPTER I.</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Introductory—Remarks on the results of the former Expedition—The +fitting out of another determined on—Its objects—Provisions, +accoutrements, and retinue—Paper furnished by Mr. Kent—Causes that +have prevented the earlier appearance of the present work. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap02">CHAPTER II.</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Commencement of the expedition in November, 1829.—Joined by Mr. George +M'Leay—Appearance of the party—Breadalbane Plains—Hospitality of Mr. +O'Brien—Yass Plains—Hill of Pouni—Path of a hurricane—Character of +the country between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee—Appearance of that +river—Junction of the Dumot with it—Crossing and recrossing—Geological +character and general aspect of the country—Plain of Pondebadgery—Few +natives seen. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap03">CHAPTER III.</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Character of the Morumbidgee where it issues from the hilly +country—Appearance of approach to swamps—Hamilton Plains—Intercourse +with the natives—Their appearance, customs, &c.—Change in the +character of the river—Mirage—Dreariness of the country—Ride towards +the Lachlan river—Two boats built and launched on the Morumbidgee; and +the drays, with part of the men sent back to Goulburn Plains. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap04">CHAPTER IV.</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Embarkation of the party in the boats, and voyage down the +Morumbidgee—The skiff swamped by striking on a sunken tree—Recovery +of boat and its loading—Region of reeds—Dangers of the +navigation—Contraction of the channel—Reach the junction of a large +river—Intercourse with the natives on its banks—Character of the +country below the junction of the rivers—Descent of a dangerous +rapid—Warlike demonstrations of a tribe of natives—Unexpected +deliverance from a conflict with them—Junction of another river—Give +the name of the "Murray" to the principal stream. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap05">CHAPTER V.</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Character of the country—Damage of provisions—Adroitness of the +natives in catching fish—The skiff broken up—Stream from the +North-East supposed to be the Darling—Change of country in descending +the river—Intercourse with the natives—Prevalence of loathsome +diseases among them—Apparent populousness of the country—Junction of +several small streams—The Rufus, the Lindesay, &c.—Rainy and +tempestuous weather—Curious appearance of the banks—Troublesomeness +of the natives—Inhospitable and desolate aspect of the +country—Condition of the men—Change in the geological character of +the country—The river passes through a valley among hills. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap06">CHAPTER VI.</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Improvement in the aspect of the country—Increase of the river—Strong +westerly gales—Chronometer broken—A healthier tribe of +natives—Termination of the Murray in a large lake—Its extent and +environs—Passage across it—Hostile appearance of the natives—Beautiful +scenery—Channel from the lake to the sea at Encounter Bay—Reach the +beach—Large flocks of water fowl—Curious refraction—State of +provisions—Embarrassing situation—Inspection of the channel to the +ocean—Weak condition of the men—Difficulties of the return. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap07">CHAPTER VII.</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Valley of the Murray—Its character and capabilities—Laborious +progress up the river—Accident to the boat—Perilous collision with +the natives—Turbid current of the Rufus—Passage of the +Rapids—Assisted by the natives—Dangerous intercourse with +them—Re-enter the Morumbidgee—Verdant condition of its +banks—Nocturnal encounter with the natives—Interesting manifestation +of feeling in one family—Reach the spot where the party had embarked +on the river—Men begin to fail entirely—Determine to send two men +forward for relief—Their return—Excursion on horseback—Reach +Pondebadgery Plain, and meet the supplies from the colony—Cannibalism +of the natives—Return to Sydney—Concluding remarks. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +<A HREF="#chap08">CHAPTER VIII.</A> +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Environs of the lake Alexandrina—Appointment of Capt. Barker to make a +further survey of the coast near Encounter Bay—Narrative of his +proceedings—Mount Lofty, Mount Barker, and beautiful country +adjacent—Australian salmon—Survey of the coast—Outlet of lake to the +sea—Circumstances that led to the slaughter of Capt. Barker by the +natives—His character—Features of this part of the country and +capabilities of its coasts—Its adaptation for colonization—Suggestions +for the furtherance of future Expeditions. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +APPENDIX. +</H3> + +<H4> + No. I. <A HREF="#append1">Geological Specimens found to the south-west of Port Jackson</A><BR> + No. II. <A HREF="#append2">Official Report to the Colonial Government</A><BR> +</H4> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME +</H2> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +(Not included in this etext) +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> + View on the Morumbidgee River<BR> + Junction of the supposed Darling with the Murray<BR> + Palaeornis Melanura, or Black Tailed Paroquet<BR> + Pomatorhinus Temporalis<BR> + Pomatorhinus Superciliosus<BR> + Chart of Cape Jervis, and Encounter Bay<BR> + Mass of Fossils of the Tertiary Formation<BR> + Bulla<BR> + Conus<BR> + Genus Unknown<BR> + Chrystallized Selenite<BR> + Selenite<BR> + Single Fossils of the Tertiary Formation<BR> +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +EXPEDITION DOWN THE MORUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY RIVERS, <BR> +IN 1829, 1830 AND 1831. +</H2> + +<BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap01"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER I. +</H3> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +Introductory +</H4> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Remarks on the results of the former Expedition—The fitting out of +another determined on—Its objects—Provisions, accoutrements, and +retinue—Paper furnished by Mr. Kent—Causes that have prevented the +earlier appearance of the present work. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION. +</H4> + +<P> +The expedition of which we have just detailed the proceedings was so +far satisfactory in its results, that it not only set at rest the +hypothesis of the existence of an internal shoal sea in southern +Australia, and ascertained the actual termination of the rivers it had +been directed to trace, but also added very largely to our knowledge of +the country considerably to the westward of former discoveries. And +although no land had been traversed of a fertile description of +sufficient extent to invite the settler, the fact of a large river such +as the Darling lying at the back of our almost intertropical +settlements, gave a fresh importance to the distant interior. It was +evident that this river was the chief drain for carrying off the waters +falling westerly from the eastern coast, and as its course indicated a +decline of country diametrically opposite to that which had been +calculated upon, it became an object of great importance to ascertain +its further direction. Had not the saline quality of its waters been +accounted for, by the known existence of brine springs in its bed, it +would have been natural to have supposed that it communicated with some +mediterranean sea; but, under existing circumstances, it remained to be +proved whether this river held on a due south course, or whether it +ultimately turned westerly, and ran into the heart of the interior. In +order fully to determine this point, it would be necessary to regain it +banks, so far below the parallel to which it had been traced as to +leave no doubt of its identity; but it was difficult to fix upon a plan +for approaching that central stream without suffering from the want of +water, since it could hardly be expected that the Lachlan would afford +such means, as it was reasonable to presume that its termination was +very similar to that of the Macquarie. The attention of the government +was, consequently, fixed upon the Morumbidgee, a river stated to be of +considerable size and of impetuous current. Receiving its supplies from +the lofty ranges behind Mount Dromedary, it promised to hold a longer +course than those rivers which, depending on periodical rains alone for +existence, had been found so soon to exhaust themselves. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +PREPARATIONS. +</H4> + +<P> +The fitting out of another expedition was accordingly determined upon; +and about the end of September 1829, I received the Governor's +instructions to make the necessary preparations for a second descent +into the interior, for the purpose of tracing the Morumbidgee, or such +rivers as it might prove to be connected with, as far as practicable. +In the event of failure in this object, it was hoped that an attempt to +regain the banks of the Darling on a N.W. course from the point at +which the expedition might be thwarted in its primary views, would not +be unattended with success. Under any circumstances, however, by +pursuing these measures, an important part of the colony would +necessarily be traversed, of which the features were as yet altogether +unknown. +</P> + +<P> +It became my interest and my object to make the expedition as complete +as possible, and, as far as in me lay, to provide for every +contingency: and as it appeared to me that, in all likelihood, we +should in one stage or other of our journey have to trust entirely to +water conveyance, I determined on taking a whale-boat, whose dimensions +and strength should in some measure be proportioned to the service +required. I likewise constructed a small still for the distillation of +water, in the event of our finding the water of the Darling salt, when +we should reach its banks. The whale-boat, after being fitted, was +taken to pieces for more convenient carriage, as has been more +particularly detailed in the last chapter of the preceding volume. +</P> + +<P> +So little danger had been apprehended from the natives in the former +journey, that three firelocks had been considered sufficient for our +defence. On the present occasion, however, I thought it adviseable to +provide arms for each individual. +</P> + +<P> +Mr. Hume declined accompanying me, as the harvest was at hand. Mr. +George M'Leay therefore supplied his place, rather as a companion than +as an assistant; and of those who accompanied me down the banks of the +Macquarie, I again selected Harris (my body servant), Hopkinson, and +Fraser. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +MR. KENT'S REPORT. +</H4> + +<P> +The concluding chapter of this volume, relative to the promontory of +St. Vincent, or Cape Jervis, has been furnished me by the kindness of +Mr. Kent, who accompanied the lamented officer to whom the further +exploration of that part of coast unhappily proved fatal. There is a +melancholy coincidence between Captain Barker's death and that of +Captain Cook, which cannot fail to interest the public, as the +information that has been furnished will call for their serious +consideration. I shall leave for their proper place, the remarks I have +to offer upon it, since my motive in these prefatory observations has +been, to carry the reader forward to that point at which he will have +to view the proceedings of the expedition alone, in order the more +satisfactorily to arrive at their results. And, although he must expect +a considerable portion of dry reading in the following pages, I have +endeavoured to make the narrative of events, some of which are +remarkably striking, as interesting as possible. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +REMARKS ON THE PRESENT WORK; DELIVERANCE FROM DANGERS. +</H4> + +<P> +It only remains for me to refer the reader to the concluding chapter of +the preceding volume, for such general information as I have been +enabled to furnish upon the nature of the services on which I was +employed, and on the manner of conducting similar expeditions. Indeed, +I trust that this book (whatever be its defects) will be found to +contain much valuable information of a practical character, and I may +venture to affirm, that it will give a true description of the country, +and of the various other subjects of which it treats. +</P> + +<P> +Notwithstanding that I have in my dedication alluded to the causes that +prevented the earlier appearance of this work, I feel it due both to +myself and the public here to state, that during these expeditions my +health had suffered so much, that I was unable to bear up against the +effects of exposure, bodily labour, poverty of diet, and the anxiety of +mind to which I was subjected. A residence on Norfolk Island, under +peculiarly harassing circumstances, completed that which the above +causes had commenced; and, after a succession of attacks, I became +totally blind, and am still unable either to read what I pen, or to +venture abroad without an attendant. When it is recollected, that I +have been unassisted in this work in any one particular, I hope some +excuse will be found for its imperfections. A wish to contribute to the +public good led me to undertake those journeys which have cost me so +much. The same feeling actuates me in recording their results; and I +have the satisfaction to know, that my path among a large and savage +population was a bloodless one; and that my intercourse with them was +such as to lessen the danger to future adventurers upon such hazardous +enterprises, and to give them hope where I had so often despaired. +Something more powerful, than human foresight or human prudence, +appeared to avert the calamities and dangers with which I and my +companions were so frequently threatened; and had it not been for the +guidance and protection we received from the Providence of that good +and all-wise Being to whose care we committed ourselves, we should, ere +this, have ceased to rank among the number of His earthly creatures. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap02"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER II. +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Commencement of the expedition in November, 1829.—Joined by Mr. George +M'Leay—Appearance of the party—Breadalbane Plains—Hospitality of Mr. +O'Brien—Yass Plains—Hill of Pouni—Path of a hurricane—Character of +the country between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee—Appearance of that +river—Junction of the Dumot with it—Crossing and recrossing—Geological +character and general aspect of the country—Plain of Pondebadgery—Few +natives seen. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +The expedition which traversed the marshes of the Macquarie, left +Sydney on the 10th day of Nov. 1828. That destined to follow the waters +of the Morumbidgee, took its departure from the same capital on the 3rd +of the same month in the ensuing year. Rain had fallen in the interval, +but not in such quantities as to lead to the apprehension that it had +either influenced or swollen the western streams. It was rather +expected that the winter falls would facilitate the progress of the +expedition, and it was hoped that, as the field of its operations would +in all probability be considerably to the south of the parallel of Port +Jackson, the extreme heat to which the party and the animals had been +exposed on the former journey, would be less felt on the present +occasion. +</P> + +<P> +As there was no Government establishment to the S.W. at which I could +effect any repairs, or recruit my supplies, as I had done at Wellington +Valley, the expedition, when it left Sydney, was completed in every +branch, and was so fully provided with every necessary implement and +comfort, as to render any further aid, even had such been attainable, +in a great measure unnecessary. The Governor had watched over my +preparations with a degree of anxiety that evidenced the interest he +felt in the expedition, and his arrangements to ensure, as far as +practicable, our being met on our return, in the event of our being in +distress, were equally provident and satisfactory. It was not, however, +to the providing for our wants in the interior alone that His +Excellency's views were directed, but orders were given to hold a +vessel in readiness, to be dispatched at a given time to St. Vincent's +Gulf, in case we should ultimately succeed in making the south coast in +its neighbourhood. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +LEAVE SYDNEY. +</H4> + +<P> +The morning on which I left Sydney a second time, under such doubtful +circumstances, was perfectly serene and clear. I found myself at 5 a.m. +of that delightful morning leading my horses through the gates of those +barracks whose precincts I might never again enter, and whose inmates I +might never again behold assembled in military array. Yet, although the +chance of misfortune flashed across my mind, I was never lighter at +heart, or more joyous in spirit. It appeared to me that the stillness +and harmony of nature influenced my feelings on the occasion, and my +mind forgot the storms of life, as nature at that moment seemed to have +forgotten the tempests that sometimes agitate her. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +APPEARANCE OF THE PARTY. +</H4> + +<P> +I proceeded direct to the house of my friend Mr. J. Deas Thomson, who +had agreed to accompany me to Brownlow Hill, a property belonging to +Mr. M'Leay, the Colonial Secretary, where his son, Mr. George M'Leay, +was to join the expedition. As soon as we had taken a hasty breakfast, +I went to the carters' barracks to superintend the first loading of the +animals. Mr. Murray, the superintendent, had arranged every article so +well, and had loaded the drays so compactly that I had no trouble, and +little time was lost in saddling the pack animals. At a quarter before +7 the party filed through the turnpike-gate, and thus commenced its +journey with the greatest regularity. I have the scene, even at this +distance of time, vividly impressed upon my mind, and I have no doubt +the kind friend who was near me on the occasion, bears it as strongly +on his recollection. My servant Harris, who had shared my wanderings +and had continued in my service for eighteen years, led the advance, +with his companion Hopkinson. Nearly abreast of them the eccentric +Fraser stalked along wholly lost in thought. The two former had laid +aside their military habits, and had substituted the broad brimmed hat +and the bushman's dress in their place, but it was impossible to guess +how Fraser intended to protect himself from the heat or the damp, so +little were his habiliments suited for the occasion. He had his gun +over his shoulder, and his double shot belt as full as it could be of +shot, although there was not a chance of his expending a grain during +the day. Some dogs Mr. Maxwell had kindly sent me followed close at his +heels, as if they knew his interest in them, and they really seemed as +if they were aware that they were about to exchange their late +confinement for the freedom of the woods. The whole of these formed a +kind of advanced guard. At some distance in the rear the drays moved +slowly along, on one of which rode the black boy mentioned in my former +volume, and behind them followed the pack animals. Robert Harris, whom +I had appointed to superintend the animals generally, kept his place +near the horses, and the heavy Clayton, my carpenter, brought up the +rear. I shall not forget the interest Thomson appeared to take in a +scene that must certainly have been new to him. Our progress was not +checked by the occurrence of a single accident, nor did I think it +necessary to remain with the men after we had gained that turn which, +at about four miles from Sydney, branches off to the left, and leads +direct to Liverpool. From this Point my companion and I pushed forward, +in order to terminate a fifty miles' ride a little sooner than we +should have done at the leisurely pace we had kept during the early +part of our journey. We remained in Liverpool for a short time, to +prepare the commissariat office for the reception, and to ensure the +accommodation, of the party; and reached Brownlow Hill a little after +sunset. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +LIVERPOOL-GOULBURN PLAINS. +</H4> + +<P> +As I have already described the country on this line of road as far us +Goulburn Plains, it will not be considered necessary that I should +again notice its features with minuteness. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +WALLANDILLY-TYRANNA. +</H4> + +<P> +The party arrived at Glendarewel, the farm attached to Brownlow Hill, +on the 5th. I resumed my journey alone on the 8th. M'Leay had still +some few arrangements to make, so that I dispensed with his immediate +attendance. He overtook me, however, sooner than I expected, on the +banks of the Wallandilly. I had encamped under the bluff end of +Cookbundoon, and, having been disappointed in getting bearings when +crossing the Razor Back, I hoped that I should be enabled to connect a +triangle from the summit of Cookbundoon, or to secure bearings of some +prominent hill to the south. I found the brush, however, so thick on +the top of the mountain, that I could obtain no satisfactory view, and +and M'Leay, who accompanied me, agreed with me in considering that we +were but ill repaid for the hot scramble we had had. Crossing the +western extremity of Goulburn Plains on the 15th, we encamped on a +chain of ponds behind Doctor Gibson's residence at Tyranna, and as I +had some arrangements to make with that gentleman, I determined to give +both the men and animals a day's rest. I availed myself of Doctor +Gibson's magazines to replace such of my provisions as I had expended, +as I found that I could do so without putting him to any inconvenience; +and I added two of his men to the party, intending to send them back, +in case of necessity, or, when we should have arrived at that point +from which it might appear expedient to forward an account of my +progress and ultimate views, for the governor's information. +</P> + +<P> +On the 17th we struck the tents, and, crossing the chain of ponds near +which they had been pitched, entered a forest track, that gave place to +barren stony ridges of quartz formation. These continued for six or +seven miles, in the direction of Breadalbane Plains, upon which we were +obliged to stop, as we should have had some difficulty in procuring +either water or food, within any moderate distance beyond them. The +water, indeed, that we were obliged to content ourselves with was by no +means good. Breadalbane Plains are of inconsiderable extent, and are +surrounded by ridges, the appearance of which is not very promising. +Large white masses of quartz rock lie scattered over them, amongst +trees of stunted growth. Mr. Redall's farm was visible at the further +extremity of the plains from that by which we had entered them. It +would appear that these plains are connected with Goulburn Plains by a +narrow valley, that was too wet for the drays to have traversed. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +BREADALBANE PLAINS. +</H4> + +<P> +Doctor Gibson had kindly accompanied us to Breadalbane Plains. On the +morning of the 18th he returned to Tyranna, and we pursued our journey, +keeping mostly on a W.S.W. course. From the barren hills over which we +passed, on leaving the plains, we descended upon an undulating country, +and found a change of rock, as well as of vegetation, upon it. Granite +and porphyry constituted its base. An open forest, on which the +eucalyptus mannifera alone prevailed, lay on either side of us, and +although the soil was coarse, and partook in a great measure of the +decomposition of the rock it covered, there was no deficiency of grass. +On the contrary, this part of the interior is decidedly well adapted +for pasturing cattle. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +THE LORN. +</H4> + +<P> +About 1 p.m. we passed Mr. Hume's station, with whom I remained for a +short time. He had fixed his establishment on the banks of the Lorn, a +small river, issuing from the broken country near Lake George, and now +ascertained to be one of the largest branches of the Lachlan River. We +had descended a barren pass of stringy bark scrub, on sandstone rock, a +little before we reached Mr. Hume's station, but around it the same, +open forest tract again prevailed. We crossed the Lorn, at 2 o'clock, +leaving Mr. Broughton's farm upon our left, and passed through a broken +country, which was very far from being deficient in pasture. We +encamped on the side of a water-course, about 4 o'clock, having +travelled about fifteen miles. +</P> + +<P> +On the 19th, we observed no change in the soil or aspect of the +country, for the first five miles. The eucalyptus mannifera was the +most prevalent of the forest trees, and certainly its presence +indicated a more flourishing state in the minor vegetation. At about +five miles, however, from where we had slept, sandstone reappeared, and +with it the barren scrub that usually grows upon a sandy and +inhospitable soil. One of the drays was upset in its progress down a +broken pass, where the road had been altogether neglected, and it was +difficult to avoid accidents. Fortunately we suffered no further than +in the delay that the necessity of unloading the dray, and reloading +it, occasioned. Mr. O'Brien, an enterprising settler, who had pushed +his flocks to the banks of the Morumbidgee, and who was proceeding to +visit his several stations, overtook us in the midst of our troubles. +We had already passed each other frequently on the road, but he now +preceded me to his establishment at Yass; at which I proposed remaining +for a day. We stopped about three miles short of the plains for the +night, at the gorge of the pass through which we had latterly been +advancing, and had gradually descended to a more open country. From the +place at which we were temporarily delayed, and which is not +inappropriately called the Devil's Pass, the road winds about between +ranges, differing in every respect from any we had as yet noticed. The +sides of the hills were steeper, and their summits sharper, than any we +had crossed. They were thickly covered with eucalypti and brush, and, +though based upon sandstone, were themselves of a schistose formation. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +YASS PLAINS. +</H4> + +<P> +Yharr or Yass Plains were discovered by Mr. Hovel, and Mr. Hume, the +companion of my journey down the Macquarie, in 1828. They take their +name from the little river that flows along their north and north-west +boundaries. They are surrounded on every side by forests, and excepting +to the W.N.W., as a central point, by hill. Undulating, but naked +themselves, they have the appearance of open downs, and are most +admirably adapted for sheep-walks, not only in point of vegetation, but +also, because their inequalities prevent their becoming swampy during +the rainy season. They are from nine to twelve miles in length, and +from five to seven in breadth, and although large masses of sandstone +are scattered over them, a blue secondary limestone composes the +general bed of the river, that was darker in colour and more compact +than I had remarked the same kind of rock, either at Wellington Valley, +or in the Shoal Haven Gully. I have no doubt that Yass Plains will ere +long be wholly taken up as sheep-walks, and that their value to the +grazier will in a great measure counterbalance its distance from the +coast, or, more properly speaking, from the capital. Sheep I should +imagine would thrive uncommonly well upon these plains, and would +suffer less from distempers incidental to locality and to climate, than +in many parts of the colony over which they are now wandering in +thousands. And if the plains themselves do not afford extensive arable +tracts, there is, at least, sufficient good land near the river to +supply the wants of a numerous body of settlers. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +HOSPITALITY OF MR. O'BRIEN. +</H4> + +<P> +We left Mr. O'Brien's station on the morning of the 21st, and, +agreeably to his advice, determined on gaining the Morumbidgee, by a +circuit to the N.W., rather than endanger the safety of the drays by +entering the mountain passes to the westward. Mr. O'Brien, however, +would not permit us to depart from his dwelling without taking away +with us some further proofs of his hospitality. The party had pushed +forward before I, or Mr. M'Leay, had mounted our horses; but on +overtaking it, we found that eight fine wethers had been added to our +stock of animals. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +HILL OF POUNI; ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. +</H4> + +<P> +To the W.N.W. of Yass Plains there is a remarkable hill, called Pouni, +remarkable not so much on account of its height, as of its commanding +position. It had, I believe, already been ascended by one of the +Surveyor-general's assistants. The impracticability of the country to +the south of it, obliged us to pass under its opposite base, from which +an open forest country extended to the northward. We had already +recrossed the Yass River, and passed Mr. Barber's station, to that of +Mr. Hume's father, at which we stopped for a short time. Both farms are +well situated, the latter I should say, romantically so, it being +immediately under Pouni, the hill we have noticed. The country around +both was open, and both pasture and water were abundant. +</P> + +<P> +Mr. O'Brien had been kind enough to send one of the natives who +frequented his station to escort us to his more advanced station upon +the Morumbidgee. Had it not been for the assistance we received from +this man, I should have had but little leisure for other duties: as it +was however, there was no fear of the party going astray. This gave +M'Leay and myself an opportunity of ascending Pouni, for the purpose of +taking bearings; and how ever warm the exertion of the ascent made us, +the view from the summit of the hill sufficiently repaid us, and the +cool breeze that struck it, although imperceptible in the forest below, +soon dried the perspiration from our brows. The scenery around us was +certainly varied, yet many parts of it put me forcibly in mind of the +dark and gloomy tracks over which my eye had wandered from similar +elevations on the former journey. This was especially the case in +looking to the north, towards which point the hills forming the right +of the valley by which we had entered the plains, decreased so rapidly +in height that they were lost in the general equality of the more +remote country, almost ere they had reached abreast of my position. +From E.S.E. to W.S.W. the face of the country was hilly, broken and +irregular; forming deep ravines and precipitous glens, amid which I was +well aware the Morumbidgee was still struggling for freedom; while +mountains succeeded mountains in the back-ground, and were themselves +overtopped by lofty and very distant peaks. To the eastward, however, +the hills wore a more regular form, and were lightly covered with wood. +The plains occupied the space between them and Pouni; and a smaller +plain bore N.N.E. which, being embosomed in the forest, had hitherto +escaped our notice. +</P> + +<P> +We overtook the party just as it cleared the open ground through which +it had previously been moving. A barren scrub succeeded it for about +eight miles. The soil in this scrub was light and sandy. +</P> + +<P> +We stopped for the night at the head of a valley that seemed to have +been well trodden by cattle. The feed, therefore, was not abundant, nor +was the water good. We had, however, made a very fair journey, and I +was unwilling to press the animals. But in consequence, I fancy, of the +scarcity of food, they managed to creep away during the night, with the +exception of three or four of the bullocks, nor should we have +collected them again so soon as we did, or without infinite trouble, +had it not been for our guide and my black boy. We unavoidably lost a +day, but left our position on the 23rd, for Underaliga, a station +occupied by Doctor Harris, the gentleman I have already had occasion to +mention. We reached the banks of the creek near the stock hut, about 4 +p.m., having journeyed during the greater part of the day through a +poor country, partly of scrub and partly of open forest-land, in +neither of which was the soil or vegetation fresh or abundant. At about +three miles from Underaliga, the country entirely changed its +character, and its flatness was succeeded by a broken and undulating +surface. The soil upon the hills was coarse and sandy, from the +decomposition of the granite rock that constituted their base. +Nevertheless, the grass was abundant on the hills, though the roots or +tufts were far apart; and the hills were lightly studded with trees. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +COURSE OF A HURRICANE. +</H4> + +<P> +In the course of the day we crossed the line of a hurricane that had +just swept with resistless force over the country, preserving a due +north course, and which we had heard from a distance, fortunately too +great to admit of its injuring us. It had opened a fearful gap in the +forest through which it had passed, of about a quarter of a mile in +breadth. Within that space, no tree had been able to withstand its +fury, for it had wrenched every bough from such as it had failed to +prostrate, and they stood naked in the midst of the surrounding wreck. +I am inclined to think that the rudeness of nature itself in these wild +and uninhabited regions, gives birth to these terrific phenomena. They +have never occurred, so far as I know, in the located districts. Our +guide deserted us in the early part of the day without assigning any +reason for doing so. He went off without being noticed, and thus lost +the reward that would have been bestowed on him had he mentioned his +wish to return to Yass. I the more regretted his having sneaked off, +because he had had the kindness to put us on a track we could not well +lose. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +COUNTRY FROM UNDERALIGA TO MORUMBIDGEE. +</H4> + +<P> +Underaliga, is said to be thirty miles from the Morumbidgee. The +country between the two has a sameness of character throughout. It is +broken and irregular, yet no one hill rises conspicuously over the +rest. We found ourselves at one time on their summits beside huge +masses of granite, at others crossing valleys of rich soil and green +appearance. A country under cultivation is so widely different from one +the sod of which has never been broken by the plough, that it is +difficult and hazardous to form a decided opinion on the latter. If you +ask a stockman what kind of a country lies, either to his right, or to +his left, he is sure to condemn it, unless it will afford the most +abundant pasture. Accustomed to roam about from one place to another, +these men despise any but the richest tracts, and include the rest of +the neighbourhood in one sweeping clause of condemnation. Thus I was +led to expect, that we should pass over a country of the very worst +description, between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee. Had it been +similar to that midway between Yass and Underaliga, we should, in +truth, have found it so; but it struck me, that there were many rich +tracts of ground among the valleys of the former, and that the very +hills had a fair covering of grass upon them. What though the soil was +coarse, if the vegetation was good and sufficient? Perhaps the greatest +drawback to this part of the interior is the want of water; yet we +crossed several creeks, and remarked some deep water holes, that can +never be exhausted, even in the driest season. Wherever the situation +favoured our obtaining a view of the country on either side of us, +while among these hills, we found that to the eastward lofty and +mountainous; whilst that to the westward, had the appearance of fast +sinking into a level. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +JUGGIONG. +</H4> + +<P> +A short time before we reached the Morumbidgee, we forded a creek, +which we crossed a second time where it falls into the river. After +crossing it the first time we opened a flat, on which the marks of +sheep were abundant. In the distance there was a small hill, and on its +top a bark hut. We were not until then aware of our being so near the +river, but as Mr. O'Brien had informed me that he had a station for +sheep, at a place called Juggiong, by the natives, on the immediate +banks of the river, I did not doubt that we had, at length, arrived at +it. And so it proved. I went to the hut, to ascertain where I could +conveniently stop for the night, but the residents were absent. I could +not but admire the position they had taken up. The hill upon which +their hut was erected was not more than fifty feet high, but it +immediately overlooked the river, and commanded not only the flat we +had traversed in approaching it, but also a second flat on the opposite +side. The Morumbidgee came down to the foot of this little hill from +the south, and, of course, running to the north, which latter direction +it suddenly takes up from a previous S.W. one, on meeting some hills +that check its direct course. From the hill on which the hut stands, it +runs away westward, almost in a direct line, for three miles, so that +the position commands a view of both the reaches, which are overhung by +the casuarina and flooded-gum. Rich alluvial flats lie to the right of +the stream, backed by moderate hills, that were lightly studded with +trees, and clothed with verdure to their summits. Some moderate +elevations also backed a flat, on the left bank of the river, but the +colour of the soil upon the latter, as well as its depressed situation, +showed clearly that it was subject to flood, and had received the worst +of the depositions from the mountains. The hills behind it were also +bare, and of a light red colour, betraying, as I imagined, a distinct +formation from, and poorer character than, the hills behind us. At +about three miles the river again suddenly changes its direction from +west to south, for about a mile, when it inclines to the S.E. until it +nearly encircles the opposite hills, when it assumes its proper +direction, and flows away to the S.W. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CROSS THE UNDERALIGA; REACH THE MORUMBIDGEE. +</H4> + +<P> +We crossed the Underaliga creek a little below the stock hut, and +encamped about a mile beyond it, in the centre of a long plain. We were +surrounded on every side by hills, from which there was no visible +outlet, as they appeared to follow the bend of the river, with an even +and unbroken outline. The scenery around us was wild, romantic, and +beautiful; as beautiful as a rich and glowing sunset in the most +delightful climate under the heavens could make it. I had been more +anxious to gain the banks of the Morumbidgee on this occasion, than I +had been on a former one to gain those of the Macquarie, for although I +could not hope to see the Morumbidgee all that it had been described to +me, yet I felt that on its first appearance I should in some measure +ground my anticipations of ultimate success. When I arrived on the +banks of the Macquarie, it had almost ceased to flow, and its current +was so gentle as to be scarcely perceptible. Instead, however, of a +river in such a state of exhaustion, I now looked down upon a stream, +whose current it would have been difficult to breast, and whose waters, +foaming among rocks, or circling in eddies, gave early promise of a +reckless course. It must have been somewhat below its ordinary level, +and averaged a breadth of about 80 feet. Its waters were hard and +transparent, and its bed was composed of mountain debris, and large +fragments of rock. As soon as the morning dawned, the tents were struck +and we pursued our journey. We followed the line of the river, until we +found ourselves in a deep bight to the S.E. The hills that had been +gradually closing in upon the river, now approached it so nearly, that +there was no room for the passage of the drays. We were consequently +obliged to turn back, and, moving along the base of the ranges, by +which we were thus apparently enclosed, we at length found a steep +pass, the extreme narrowness of which had hidden it from our +observation. By this pass we were now enabled to effect our escape. On +gaining the summit of the hills, we travelled south for three or four +miles, through open forests, and on level ground. But we ultimately +descended into a valley in which we halted for the night. On a closer +examination of the neighbourhood, it appeared that our position was at +the immediate junction of two valleys, where, uniting the waters of +their respective creeks, the main branch declines rapidly towards the +river. One of these valleys extended to to the S.W., the other to the +W.N.W. It was evident to us that our route lay up the former; and I +made no doubt we should easily reach Whaby's station on the morrow. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ADJACENT COUNTRY. +</H4> + +<P> +We were now far beyond the acknowledged limits of the located parts of +the colony, and Mr. Whaby's station was the last at which we could +expect even the casual supply of milk or other trifling relief. Yet, +although the prospect of so soon leaving even the outskirts of +civilization, and being wholly thrown on our own resources, was so +near, it never for a moment weighed upon the minds of the men. The +novelty of the scenery, and the beauty of the river on which they were +journeying, excited in them the liveliest anticipations of success. The +facility with which we had hitherto pushed forward blinded them to +future difficulties, nor could there be a more cheerful spectacle than +that which the camp daily afforded. The animals browzing in the +distance, and the men talking over their pipes of the probable +adventures they might encounter. The loads had by this time settled +properly, and our provisions proved of the very best quality, so that +no possible improvement could have been made for the better. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +WHABY'S STATION. +</H4> + +<P> +On the morrow we pushed up the southernmost of the valleys, at the +junction of which we had encamped, having moderate hills on either side +of us. At the head of the valley we crossed a small dividing range into +another valley, and halted for the night, on the banks of a creek from +the westward, as we found it impossible to reach Whaby's station, as we +had intended, before sunset. Nothing could exceed the luxuriance of the +vegetation in this valley, but the water of the creek was so +impregnated with iron, as to be almost useless. Being anxious to obtain +a view of the surrounding country, I ascended a hill behind the camp, +just as the sun was sinking, a time the most favourable for the object +I had in view. The country, broken into hill and dale, seemed richer +than any tract I had as yet surveyed; and the beauty of the near +landscape was greatly heightened by the mountainous scenery to the S. +and S.E. Both the laxmania, and zanthorea were growing around me; but +neither appeared to be in congenial soil. The face of the hill was very +stony, and I found, on examination, that a great change had taken place +in the rock-formation, the granite ranges having given place to +chlorite schist. +</P> + +<P> +We reached Whaby's about 9 a.m. of the morning of the 27th, and +received every attention and civility from him. The valley in which we +had slept opened upon an extensive plain, to the eastward of which the +Morumbidgee formed the extreme boundary; and it was in a bight, and on +ground rather elevated above the plain, that he had fixed his +residence. He informed me that we should have to cross the river, as +its banks were too precipitous, and the ranges too abrupt, to admit of +our keeping the right side; and recommended me to examine and fix upon +a spot at which to cross, before I again moved forward, expressing his +readiness to accompany me as a guide. We accordingly rode down the +river, to a place at which some stockman had effected a passage,—after +a week's labour in hewing out a canoe. I by no means intended that a +similar delay should occur in our case, but I saw no objection to our +crossing at the same place; since its depth, and consequent +tranquillity, rendered it eligible enough for that purpose. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +THE RIVER DUMOT. +</H4> + +<P> +The Dumot river, another mountain stream, joins the Morumbidgee +opposite to Mr. Whaby's residence. It is little inferior to the latter +either in size or in the rapidity of its current, and, if I may rely on +the information I received, waters a finer country, the principal +rock-formation upon it being of limestone and whinstone. It rises +amidst the snowy ranges to the S.E., and its banks are better peopled +than those of the stream into which it discharges itself. Of course, +such a tributary enlarges the Morumbidgee considerably: indeed, the +fact is sufficiently evident from the appearance of the latter below +the junction. +</P> + +<P> +During our ride with Whaby down its banks, we saw nothing but the +richest flats, almost entirely clear of timber and containing from 400 +to 700 acres, backed by ranges that were but partially wooded, and were +clothed with verdure to their very summits. The herds that were +scattered over the first were almost lost in the height of the +vegetation, and the ranges served as natural barriers to prevent them +from straying away. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CROSS AND RE-CROSS THE MORUMBIDGEE. +</H4> + +<P> +On the following morning, we started for the place at which it had been +arranged that we should cross the Morumbidgee, but, though no more than +five miles in a direct line from Whaby's house, in consequence of the +irregularity of the ground, the drays did not reach it before noon. The +weight and quantity of our stores being taken into consideration, the +task we had before us was not a light one. Such, however, was the +industry of the men, that before it became dark the whole of them, +including the drays and sheep, were safely deposited on the opposite +bank. We were enabled to be thus expeditious, by means of a punt that +we made with the tarpaulins on an oblong frame. As soon as it was +finished, a rope was conveyed across the river, and secured to a tree, +and a running cord being then fastened to the punt, a temporary ferry +was established, and the removal of our stores rendered comparatively +easy. M'Leay undertook to drive the horses and cattle over a ford below +us, but he did not calculate on the stubborn disposition of the latter, +and, consequently, experienced some difficulty, and was well nigh swept +away by the current. So great was his difficulty, that he was obliged +to land, to his great discomfiture, amidst a grove of lofty nettles. +Mulholland, who accompanied him, and who happened to be naked, was +severly stung by them. The labour of the day was, however, +satisfactorily concluded, and we lay down to rest with feelings of +entire satisfaction. +</P> + +<P> +A great part of the following day was consumed in reloading, nor did we +pursue our journey until after two o'clock. We then passed over tracks +on the left of the river of the same rich description that existed on +its right; they were much intersected by creeks, but were clear of +timber, and entirely out of the reach of floods. At about seven miles +from where we started, we found ourselves checked by precipitous rocks +jutting into the stream, and were obliged once more to make +preparations for crossing it. Instead of a deep and quiet reach, +however, the Morumbidgee here expanded into a fretful rapid; but it was +sufficiently shallow to admit of our taking the drays over, without the +trouble of unloading them. There was still, however, some labour +required in cutting down the banks, and the men were fully occupied +until after sunset; and so well did they work, that an hour's exertion +in the morning enabled us to make the passage with safety. On ascending +the right bank, we found that we had to force through a dense body of +reeds, covering some flooded land, at the base of a range terminating +upon the river; and we were obliged, in order to extricate ourselves +from our embarrassments, to pass to the N.W. of the point, and to cross +a low part of the range. This done, we met with no further +interruptions during the day, but travelled along rich and clear flats +to a deep bight below an angle of the river called Nangaar by the +natives; where we pitched our camp, and our animals revelled amid the +most luxuriant pasture. Only in one place did the sandy superficies +upon the plain indicate that it was there subject to flood. +</P> + +<P> +The Morumbidgee from Juggiong to our present encampment had held a +general S.S.W. course, but from the summit of a hill behind the tents +it now appeared to be gradually sweeping round to the westward; and I +could trace the line of trees upon its banks, through a rich and +extensive valley in that direction, as far as my sight could reach. The +country to the S.E. maintained its lofty character, but to the westward +the hills and ranges were evidently decreasing in height, and the +distant interior seemed fast sinking to a level. The general direction +of the ranges had been from N. to S., and as we had been travelling +parallel to them, their valleys were shut from our view. Now, however, +several rich and extensive ones became visible, opening from the +southward into the valley of the Morumbidgee, and, as a further +evidence of a change of country from a confused to a more open one, a +plain of considerable size stretched from immediately beneath the hill +on which I was to the N.W. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +GEOLOGY OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. +</H4> + +<P> +The Morumbidgee itself, from the length and regularity of its reaches, +as well as from its increased size, seemed to intimate that it had +successfully struggled through the broken country in which it rises, +and that it would henceforward meet with fewer interruptions to its +course. It still, however, preserved all the characters of a mountain +stream; having alternate rapids and deep pools, being in many places +encumbered with fallen timber, and generally running over a shingly +bed, composed of rounded fragments of every rock of which the +neighbouring ranges were formed, and many others that had been swept by +the torrents down it. The rock formation of the hills upon its right +continued of that chlorite schist which prevailed near Mr. Whaby's, +which I have already noticed, and quartz still appeared in large +masses, on the loftier ranges opposite, so that the geology of the +neighbourhood could not be said to have undergone any material change. +It might, however, be considered an extraordinary feature in it, that a +small hill of blue limestone existed upon the left bank of the river. +The last place at which we had seen limestone was at Yass, but I had +learned from Mr. Whaby, that, together with whinstone, it was abundant +near a Mr. Rose's station on the Dumot, that was not at any great +distance. The irregularity, however, of the intervening country, made +the appearance of this solitary rock more singular. +</P> + +<P> +Although the fires of the natives had been frequent upon the river, +none had, as yet, ventured to approach us, in consequence of some +misunderstanding that had taken place between them and Mr. Stuckey's +stockmen. Mr. Roberts' stockmen [these men had lately fixed themselves +on the river a little below Mr. Whaby's], however, brought a man and a +boy to us at this place in the afternoon, but I could not persuade them +to accompany us on our journey—neither could I, although my native boy +understood them perfectly, gain any particular information from them. +</P> + +<P> +In consequence of rain, we did not strike the tents so early as usual. +At 7 a.m. a heavy thunder storm occurred from the N.W. after which the +sky cleared, and we were enabled to push forward at 11 a.m., moving on +a general W.N.W, course, over rich flats, which, having been moistened +by the morning's showers, showed the dark colour of the rich earth of +which they were composed. Some sand-hills were, however, observed near +the river, of about fifteen feet in elevation, crowned by banksias; and +the soil of the flats had a very partial mixture of sand in it. How +these sand-hills could have been formed it is difficult to say; but +they produced little minor vegetation, and were as pure as the sand of +the sea-shore. Some considerable plains were noticed to our right, in +appearance not inferior to the ground on which we were journeying. At +noon we rose gradually from the level of these plains, and travelled +along the side of a hill, until we got to a small creek, at which we +stopped, though more than a mile and a half from the river. The clouds +had been gathering again in the N.W. quarter, and we had scarcely time +to secure our flour, when a second storm burst upon us, and it +continued to rain violently for the remainder of the day. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT. +</H4> + +<P> +From a small hill that lay to our left Mr. M'Leay and I enjoyed a most +beautiful view. Beneath us to the S. E. the rich and lightly timbered +valley through which the Morumbidgee flows, extended, and parts of the +river were visible through the dark masses of swamp-oak by which it was +lined, or glittering among the flooded-gum trees, that grew in its +vicinity. In the distance was an extensive valley that wound between +successive mountain ranges. More to the eastward, both mountain and +woodland bore a dark and gloomy shade, probably in consequence of the +light upon them at the time. Those lofty peaks that had borne nearly +south of us from Pouni, near Yass, now rose over the last-mentioned +ranges, and by their appearance seemed evidently to belong to a high +and rugged chain. To the westward, the decline of country was more +observable than ever; and the hills on both sides of the river, were +lower and more distant from it. Those upon which we found ourselves +were composed of iron-stone, were precipitous towards the river in many +places, of sandy soil, and were crowned with beef-wood as well as box. +The change in the rock-formation and in the soil, produced a +corresponding change in the vegetation. The timber was not so large as +it had been, neither did the hills any longer bear the green appearance +which had distinguished those we had passed to their very summits. The +grass here grew in tufts amidst the sand, and was of a burnt appearance +as if it had suffered from drought. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +NATIVES—THEIR SUFFERING FROM COLD. +</H4> + +<P> +Some natives had joined us in the morning, and acted as our guides; or +it is more than probable that we should have continued our course along +the river, and got enbarrassed among impediments that were visible from +our elevated position; for it was evident that the range we had +ascended terminated in an abrupt precipice on the river, that we could +not have passed. The blacks suffered beyond what I could have imagined, +from cold, and seemed as incapable of enduring it as if they had +experienced the rigour of a northern snow storm. +</P> + +<P> +The morning of the 2nd December was cloudy and lowering, and the wind +still hung in the N.W. There was truly every appearance of bad weather, +but our anxiety to proceed on our journey overcame our apprehensions, +and the animals were loaded and moved off at 7 a.m. The rain which had +fallen the evening previous, rendered travelling heavy; so that we got +on but slowly. At 11, the clouds burst, and continued to pour down for +the rest of the day. On leaving the creek we crossed the spine of the +range, and descending from it into a valley, that continued to the +river on the one hand, and stretched away to the N.W. on the other, we +ascended some hills opposite to us, and moved generally through open, +undulating forest ground, affording good pasturage. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +SMOKING AN OPOSSUM. +</H4> + +<P> +One of the blacks being anxious to get an opossum out of a dead tree, +every branch of which was hollow, asked for a tomahawk, with which he +cut a hole in the trunk above where he thought the animal lay +concealed. He found however, that he had cut too low, and that it had +run higher up. This made it necessary to smoke it out; he accordingly +got some dry grass, and having kindled a fire, stuffed it into the hole +he had cut. A raging fire soon kindled in the tree, where the draft was +great, and dense columns of smoke issued from the end of each branch as +thick as that from the chimney of a steam engine. The shell of the tree +was so thin that I thought it would soon be burnt through, and that the +tree would fall; but the black had no such fears, and, ascending to the +highest branch, he watched anxiously for the poor little wretch he had +thus surrounded with dangers and devoted to destruction; and no sooner +did it appear, half singed and half roasted, than he seized upon it and +threw it down to us with an air of triumph. The effect of the scene in +so lonely a forest, was very fine. The roaring of the fire in the tree, +the fearless attitude of the savage, and the associations which his +colour and appearance, enveloped as he was in smoke, called up, were +singular, and still dwell on my recollection. We had not long left the +tree, when it fell with a tremendous crash, and was, when we next +passed that way, a mere heap of ashes. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ACCIDENTS. +</H4> + +<P> +Shortly before it commenced raining, the dogs started an emu, and took +after it, followed by M'Leay and myself. We failed in killing it, and I +was unfortunate enough to lose a most excellent watch upon the +occasion, which in regularity was superior to the chronometer I had +with me. +</P> + +<P> +As there was no hope of the weather clearing up, I sent M'Leay and one +of the blacks with the flour to the river, with directions to pile it +up and cover it with tarpaulins, as soon as possible, remaining myself +to bring up the drays. It was not, however, until after 4 p.m. that we +gained the river-side, or that we were enabled to get into shelter. +Fraser met with a sad accident while assisting the driver of the teams, +who, accidentally, struck him with the end of the lash of his whip in +the eye, and cut the lower lid in two. The poor fellow fell to the +ground as if he had been shot, and really, from the report of the whip, +I was at first uncertain of the nature of the accident. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +PONDEBADGERY. +</H4> + +<P> +We had gradually ascended some hills; and as the sweep of the valley +led southerly, we continued along it until we got to its very head; +then, crossing the ridge we descended the opposite side, towards a +beautiful plain, on the further extremity of which the river line was +marked by the dark-leafed casuarina. In spite of the badness of the +weather and the misfortunes of the day, I could not but admire the +beauty of the scene. We were obliged to remain stationary the following +day, in consequence of one of the drays being out of repair, and +requiring a new axle-tree. I could hardly regret the necessity that +kept us in so delightful a spot. This plain, which the natives called +Pondebadgery, and in which a station has since been formed, is about +two miles in breadth, by about three and a-half in length. It is +surrounded apparently on every side by hills. The river running E. and +W. forms its southern boundary. The hills by which we had entered it, +terminating abruptly on the river to the north-east, form a semi-circle +round it to the N.N.W. where a valley, the end of which cannot be seen, +runs to the north-west, of about half a mile in breadth. On the +opposite side of the river moderate hills rise over each other, and +leave little space between them and its banks. The Morumbidgee itself, +with an increased breadth, averaging from seventy to eighty yards, +presents a still, deep sheet of water to the view, over which the +casuarina bends with all the grace of the willow, or the birch, but +with more sombre foliage. To the west, a high line of flooded-gum trees +extending from the river to the base of the hills which form the west +side of the valley before noticed, hides the near elevations, and thus +shuts in the whole space. The soil of the plain is of the richest +description, and the hills backing it, together with the valley, are +capable of depasturing the most extensive flocks. +</P> + +<P> +Such is the general landscape from the centre of Pondebadgery Plain. +Behind the line of gum-trees, the river suddenly sweeps away to the +south, and forms a deep bight of seven miles, when, bearing up again to +the N.W. it meets some hills about 10 miles to the W.N.W. of the plain, +thus encircling a still more extensive space, that for richness of +soil, and for abundance of pasture, can nowhere be excelled; such, +though on a smaller scale, are all the flats that adorn the banks of +the Morumbidgee, first on one side and then on the other, as the hills +close in upon them, from Juggiong to Pondebadgery. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +TRAVELLING DOWN THE RIVER. +</H4> + +<P> +It is deeply to be regretted that this noble river should exist at such +a distance from the capital as to be unavailable. During our stay on +the Pondebadgery Plain, the men caught a number of codfish, as they are +generally termed, but which are, in reality, a species of perch. The +largest weighed 40lb. but the majority of the others were small, not +exceeding from six to eight. M'Leay and I walked to the N.W. extremity +of the plain, in order to ascertain how we should debouche from it, and +to get, if possible, a view of the western interior. We took with us +two blacks who had attached themselves to the party, and had made +themselves generally useful. On ascending the most westerly of the +hills, we found it composed of micaceous schist, the upper coat of +which was extremely soft, and broke with a slaty fracture, or crumbled +into a sparkling dust beneath our feet. The summit of the hill was +barren, and beef-wood alone grew on it. The valley, of which it was the +western boundary, ran up northerly for two or three miles, with all the +appearance of richness and verdure. To the south extended the flat I +have noticed, more heavily timbered than we had usually found them, +bounded, or backed rather, by a hilly country, although one fast losing +in its general height. To the W.N.W. there was a moderate range of +hills on the opposite side of an extensive valley, running up +northerly, from which a lateral branch swept round to the W.N.W. with a +gradual ascent into the hills, which bore the same appearance of open +forest, grazing land, as prevailed in similar tracts to the eastward. +The blacks pointed out to us our route up the valley, and stated that +we should get on the banks of the river again in a direction W. by N. +from the place on which we stood. We accordingly crossed the principal +valley on the following morning, and gradually ascended the opposite +line of hills. They terminate to the S.E. in lofty precipices, +overlooking the river flats, and having a deep chain of ponds under +them. The descent towards the river was abrupt, and we encamped upon +its banks, with a more confined view than any we had ever had before. +There was an evident change in the river; the banks were reedy, the +channel deep and muddy, and the neighbourhood bore more the appearance +of being subject to overflow than it had done in any one place we had +passed over. The hills were much lower, and as we gained the southern +brow of that under which we encamped, we could see a level and wooded +country to the westward. The line of the horizon was unbroken by any +hills in the distance, and the nearer ones seemed gradually to lose +themselves in the darkness of the landscape. +</P> + +<P> +The two natives, whom the stockmen had named Peter and Jemmie, were of +infinite service to us, from their knowledge of all the passes, and the +general features of the country. Having, however, seen us thus far on +the journey from their usual haunts, they became anxious to return, and +it was with some difficulty we persuaded them to accompany us for a few +days longer, in hopes of reward. The weather had been cool and +pleasant; the thermometer averaging 78 of Fahrenheit at noon, in +consequences of which the animals kept in good condition, the men +healthy and zealous. The sheep Mr. O'Brien had presented to us, gave no +additional trouble; they followed in the rear of the party without +attempting to wander, and were secured at night in a small pen or fold. +No waste attended their slaughter, nor did they lose in condition, from +being driven from ten to fifteen miles daily, so much as I had been led +to suppose they would have done. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap03"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER III. +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Character of the Morumbidgee where it issues from the hilly +country—Appearance of approach to swamps—Hamilton Plains—Intercourse +with the natives—Their appearance, customs, &c.—Change in the +character of the river—Mirage—Dreariness of the country—Ride towards +the Lachlan river—Two boats built and launched on the Morumbidgee; and +the drays, with part of the men sent back to Goulburn Plains. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +NATIVES—WILD GAME,&c.; CHARACTER OF THE RIVER <BR> +AND THE ADJOINING COUNTRY. +</H4> + +<P> +From our camp, the Morumbidgee held a direct westerly course for about +three miles. The hills under which we had encamped, rose so close upon +our right as to leave little space between them and the river. At the +distance of three miles, however, they suddenly terminated, and the +river changed its direction to the S.W., while a chain of ponds +extended to the westward, and separated the alluvial flats from a +somewhat more elevated plain before us. We kept these ponds upon our +left for some time, but, as they ultimately followed the bend of the +river, we left them. The blacks led us on a W. by S. course to the base +of a small range two or three miles distant, near which there was a +deep lagoon. It was evident they here expected to have found some other +natives. Being disappointed, however, they turned in towards the river +again, but we stopped short of it on the side of a serpentine sheet of +water, an apparent continuation of the chain of ponds we had left +behind us, forming a kind of ditch round the S.W. extremity of the +range, parallel to which we had continued to travel. This range, which +had been gradually decreasing in height from the lagoon, above which it +rose perpendicularly, might almost be said to terminate here. We fell +in with two or three natives before we halted, but the evident want of +population in so fine a country, and on so noble a river, surprised me +extremely. We saw several red kangaroos in the course of the day, and +succeeded in killing one. It certainly is a beautiful animal, ranging +the wilds in native freedom. The female and the kid are of a light +mouse-colour. Wild turkeys abound on this part of the Morumbidgee, but +with the exception of a few terns, which are found hovering over the +lagoons, no new birds had as yet been procured; and the only plant that +enriched our collection, was an unknown metrosideros. In crossing the +extremity of the range, the wheels of the dray sunk deep into a +yielding and coarse sandy soil, of decomposed granite, on which +forest-grass prevailed in tufts, which, being far apart, made the +ground uneven, and caused the animals to trip. We rose at one time +sufficiently high to obtain an extensive view, and had our opinions +confirmed as to the level nature of the country we were so rapidly +approaching. From the N. to the W.S.W. the eye wandered over a wooded +and unbroken interior, if I except a solitary double hill that rose in +the midst of it, bearing S. 82 degrees W. distant 12 miles, and another +singular elevation that bore S. 32 degrees W. called by the natives, +Kengal. The appearance to the E.S.E. was still that of a mountainous +country, while from the N.E., the hills gradually decrease in height, +until lost in the darkness of surrounding objects to the northward. We +did not travel this day more than 13 miles on a W. by N. course. The +Morumbidgee, where we struck it, by its increased size, kept alive our +anticipations of its ultimately leading us to some important point. The +partial rains that had fallen while we were on its upper branch, had +swollen it considerably, and it now rolled along a vast body of water +at the rate of three miles an hour, preserving a medium width of 150 +feet; its banks retaining a height far above the usual level of the +stream. A traveller who had never before descended into the interior of +New Holland, would have spurned the idea of such a river terminating in +marshes; but with the experience of the former journey, strong as hope +was within my breast, I still feared it might lose itself in the vast +flat upon which we could scarcely be said to have yet entered. The +country was indeed taking up more and more every day the features of +the N.W. interior. Cypresses were observed upon the minor ridges, and +the soil near the river, although still rich, and certainly more +extensive than above, was occasionally mixed with sand, and scattered +over with the claws of crayfish and shells, indicating its greater +liability to be flooded; nor indeed could I entertain a doubt that the +river had laid a great part of the levels around us under water long +after it found that channel in which nature intended ultimately to +confine it. We killed another fine red kangaroo in the early part of +the day, in galloping after which I got a heavy fall. +</P> + +<P> +The two blacks who had been with us so long, and who had not only +exerted themselves to assist us, but had contributed in no small degree +to our amusement, though they had from M'Leay's liberality, tasted all +the dainties with which we had provided ourselves, from sugar to +concentrated cayenne, intimated that they could no longer accompany the +party. They had probably got to the extremity of their beat, and dared +not venture any further. They left us with evident regret, receiving, +on their departure, several valuable presents, in the shape of +tomahawks &c. The last thing they did was to point out the way to us, +and to promise to join us on our return, although they evidently little +anticipated ever seeing us again. +</P> + +<P> +In pursuing our journey, we entered a forest, consisting of box-trees, +casuarinae, and cypresses, on a light sandy soil, in which both horses +and bullocks sunk so deep that their labour was greatly increased, more +especially as the weather had become much warmer. At noon I altered my +course from N.W. by W. to W.N.W., and reached the Morumbidgee at 3 in +the afternoon. The flats bordering it were extensive and rich, and, +being partially mixed with sand, were more fitted for agricultural +purposes than the stiffer and purer soil amidst the mountains; but the +interior beyond them was far from being of corresponding quality. We +crossed several plains on which vegetation was scanty, probably owing +to the hardness of the soil, which was a stiff loamy clay, and which +must check the growth of plants, by preventing the roots from striking +freely into it. The river where we stopped for the night appeared to +have risen considerably, and the fish were rolling about on the surface +of the water with a noise like porpoises. No elevations were visible, +so that I had not an opportunity of continuing the chain of survey with +the points I had previously taken. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +TRAVELLING DOWN THE RIVER. +</H4> + +<P> +As we proceeded down the river on the 8th, the flats became still more +extensive than they had ever been, and might almost be denominated +plains. Vegetation was scanty upon them, although the soil was of the +first quality. About nine miles from our camp, we struck on a small +isolated hill, that could scarcely have been of 200 feet elevation; +yet, depressed as it was, the view from its summit was very extensive, +and I was surprised to find that we were still in some measure +surrounded by high lands, of which I took the following bearings, +connected with the present ones. +</P> + +<PRE> + A High Peak.....N. 66 E. distance 40 miles. + Kengal ........ N. 110 E. distant. + Double Hill ... S. 10 W. distant. +</PRE> + +<P> +To the north, there were several fires burning, which appeared rather +the fires of natives, than conflagrations, and as the river had made a +bend to the N.N.W., I doubted not that they were upon its banks. From +this hill, which was of compact granite, we struck away to the W.N.W., +and shortly afterwards crossed some remarkable sand-hills. Figuratively +speaking, they appeared like islands amidst the alluvial deposits, and +were as pure in their composition as the sand on the sea-shore. They +were generally covered with forest grass, in tufts, and a coarse kind +of rushes, under banksias and cypresses. We found a small fire on the +banks of the river, and close to it the couch and hut of a solitary +native, who had probably seen us approach, and had fled. There cannot +be many inhabitants hereabouts, since there are no paths to indicate +that they frequent this part of the Morumbidgee more at one season than +another. +</P> + +<P> +On the 9th, the river fell off again to the westward, and we lost a +good deal of the northing we had made the day before. We journeyed +pretty nearly equidistant from the stream, and kept altogether on the +alluvial flats. As we were wandering along the banks of the river, a +black started up before us, and swam across to the opposite side, where +he immediately hid himself. We could by no means induce him to show +himself; he was probably the lonely being whom we had scared away from +the fire the day before. In the afternoon, however we surprised a +family of six natives, and persuaded them to follow us to our halting +place. My boy understood them well; but the young savage had the +cunning to hide the information they gave him, or, for aught I know, to +ask questions that best suited his own purposes, and therefore we +gained little intelligence from them. +</P> + +<P> +Every day now produced some change in the face of the country, by which +it became more and more assimilated to that I had traversed during the +first expedition. Acacia pendula now made its appearance on several +plains beyond the river deposits, as well as that salsolaceous class of +plants, among which the schlerolina and rhagodia are so remarkable. The +natives left us at sunset, but returned early in the morning with an +extremely facetious and good-humoured old man, who volunteered to act +as our guide without the least hesitation. There was a cheerfulness in +his manner, that gained our confidence at once, and rendered him a +general favourite. He went in front with the dogs, and led us a little +away from the river to kill kangaroos, as he said. At about two miles +we struck on an inconsiderable elevation, which the party crossed at +the S.W. extremity. I ascended it at the opposite end, but although the +view was extensive, I could not make out the little hill of granite +from which I had taken my former bearings, and the only elevation I +could recognise as connected with them, was one about ten miles +distant, bearing S. 168 W. I could observe very distant ranges to the +E.N.E. and immediately below me in that direction, there was a large +clear plain, skirted by acacia pendula, stretching from S.S.E. to +N.N.W. The crown and ridges of the hill on which I stood, were barren, +stony, and covered with beef-wood, the rock-formation being a coarse +granite. The drays had got so far ahead of me that I did not overtake +them before they had halted on the river at a distance of ten miles. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +INFORMATION FROM A NATIVE. +</H4> + +<P> +The Morumbidgee appeared, on examination, to have increased in breadth, +and continued to rise gradually. It is certainly a noble stream, very +different from those I had already traced to their termination. The old +black informed me that there was another large river flowing to the +southward of west, to which the Morumbidgee was as a creek, and that we +could gain it in four days. He stated that its waters were good, but +that its banks were not peopled. That such a feature existed where he +laid it down, I thought extremely probable, because it was only natural +to expect that other streams descended from the mountains in the S.E. +of the island, as well as that on which we were travelling. The +question was, whether either of them held on an uninterrupted course to +some reservoir, or whether they fell short of the coast and exhausted +themselves in marshes. Considering the concave direction of the +mountains to the S.E., I even at this time hoped that the rivers +falling into the interior would unite sooner or later, and contribute +to the formation of an important and navigable stream. Of the fate of +the Morumbidgee, the old black could give no account. It seemed +probable, therefore, that we were far from its termination. +</P> + +<P> +I had hitherto been rather severe upon the animals, for although our +journey had not exceeded from twelve to fifteen miles a day, it had +been without intermission. I determined, therefore, to give both men +and animals a day of rest, as soon as I should find a convenient place. +We started on the 11th with this intention, but we managed to creep +over eight or ten miles of ground before we halted. The country was +slightly undulated, and much intersected by creeks, few of which had +water in them. The whole tract was, however, well adapted either for +agriculture, or for grazing, and, in spite of the drought that had +evidently long hung over it, was well covered with vegetation. We had +passed all high lands, and the interior to the westward presented an +unbroken level to the eye. The Morumbidgee appeared to hold a more +northerly course than I had anticipated. Still low ranges continued +upon our right, and the cypress ridges became more frequent and denser; +but the timber on the more open grounds generally consisted of box and +flooded-gum. Of minor trees, the acacia pendula was the most prevalent, +with a shrub bearing a round nut, enclosed in a scarlet capsule, and an +interesting species of stenochylus. I had observed as yet, few of the +plants of the more northern interior. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +NATIVES—THEIR UGLINESS. +</H4> + +<P> +In this neighbourhood, the dogs killed an emu and a kangaroo, which +came in very conveniently for some natives whom we fell in with on one +of the river flats. They were, without exception, the worst featured of +any I had ever seen. It is scarcely possible to conceive that human +beings could be so hideous and loathsome. The old black, who was rather +good-looking, told me they were the last we should see for some time, +and I felt that if these were samples of the natives on the lowlands, I +cared very little how few of I them we should meet. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +EXTENSIVE PLAINS. +</H4> + +<P> +The country on the opposite side of the river had all the features of +that to the north of it, but a plain of such extent suddenly opened +upon us to the southward, that I halted at once in order to examine it, +and by availing myself of a day of rest, to fix our position more truly +than we could otherwise have done. We accordingly pitched our tents +under some lofty gum-trees, opposite to the plain, and close upon the +edge of the sandy beach of the river. Before they were turned out, the +animals were carefully examined, and the pack-saddles overhauled, that +they might undergo any necessary repairs. The river fell considerably +during the night, but it poured along a vast body of water, possessing +a strong current. The only change I remarked in it was that it now had +a bed of sand, and was generally deeper on one side than on the other. +It kept a very uniform breadth of from 150 to 170 feet—and a depth of +from 4 to 20. Its channel, though occasionally much encumbered with +fallen timber, was large enough to contain twice the volume of water +then in it, but it had outer and more distant banks, the boundaries of +the alluvial flats, to confine it within certain limits, during the +most violent floods, and to prevent its inundating the country. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +HAMILTON'S PLAINS. +</H4> + +<P> +With a view to examine the plain opposite to us, I directed our horses +to be taken across the river early in the morning, and after breakfast, +M'Leay and I swam across after them. We found the current strong, and +could not keep a direct line over the channel, but were carried below +the place at which we plunged in. We proceeded afterwards in a +direction W.S.W. across the plain for five or six miles, before we saw +trees on the opposite extremity, at a still greater distance. We thus +found ourselves in the centre of an area of from 26 to 30 miles. It +appeared to be perfectly level, though not really so. The soil upon it +was good, excepting in isolated spots, where it was sandy. Vegetation +was scanty upon it, but, on the whole, I should conclude that it was +fitter for agriculture than for grazing. For I think it very probable, +that those lands which lie hardening and bare in a state of nature, +would produce abundantly if broken up by the plough. I called this +Hamilton's plains, in remembrance of the surgeon of my regiment. The +Morumbidgee forms its N.E. boundary, and a creek rising on it, cuts off +a third part on the western side, and runs away from the river in a +southerly direction. This creek, even before it gets to the outskirts +of the plains, assumes a considerable size. Such a fact would argue +that heavy rains fall in this part of the interior, to cut out such a +watercourse, or that the soil is extremely loose; but I should think +the former the most probable, since the soil of this plain had a +substratum of clay. I place our encampment on the river in latitude 34 +degrees 41 minutes 45 seconds S., and in East longitude 146 degrees 50 +minutes, the variation of the compass being 6 degrees 10 minutes E. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES; SCANTINESS OF THE POPULATION. +</H4> + +<P> +On our return to the camp we found several natives with our people, and +among them one of the tallest I had ever seen. Their women were with +them, and they appeared to have lost all apprehension of any danger +occurring from us. The animals were benefited greatly by this day of +rest. We left the plain, therefore, on the 13th with renewed spirits, +and passed over a country very similar to that by which we had +approached it, one well adapted for grazing, but intersected by +numerous creeks, at two of which we found natives, some of whom joined +our party. Our old friend left us in quest of some blacks, who, as he +informed Hopkinson, had seen the tracks of our horses on the Darling. I +was truly puzzled at such a statement, which was, however, further +corroborated by the circumstance of one of the natives having a +tire-nail affixed to a spear, which he said was picked up, by the man +who gave it to him, on one of our encampments. I could not think it +likely that this story was true, and rather imagined they must have +picked up the nail near the located districts, and I was anxious to +have the point cleared up. When we halted we had a large assemblage of +natives with us, amounting in all to twenty-seven, but I awaited in +vain the return of the old man. The night passed away without our +seeing him, nor did he again join us. +</P> + +<P> +We started in the morning with our new acquaintances, and kept on a +south-westerly course during the day, over an excellent grazing, and, +in many places, an agricultural country, still intersected by creeks, +that were too deep for the water to have dried in them. The country +more remote from the river, however, began to assume more and more the +character and appearance of the northern interior. I rode into several +plains, the soil of which was either a red sandy loam, bare of +vegetation, or a rotten and blistered earth, producing nothing but +rhagodiae, salsolae, and misembrianthemum. +</P> + +<P> +We fell in with another tribe of blacks during the journey, to whom we +were literally consigned by those who had been previously with us, and +who now turned back, while our new friends took the lead of the drays. +They were two fine young men, but had very ugly wives, and were for a +long time extremely diffident. I found that I could obtain but little +information through my black boy,—whether from his not understanding +me, or because he was too cunning, is uncertain. One of these young +men, however, clearly stated that he had seen the tracks of bullocks +and horses, a long time ago, to the N.N.W. in the direction of some +detached hills, that were visible from 20 to 25 miles distant. He +remembered them, he said, as a boy, and added that the white men were +without water. It was, therefore, clear that he alluded to Mr. Oxley's +excursion, northerly from the Lachlan, and I had no doubt on my mind, +that he had been on one of that officer's encampments, and that the +hills to the north of us were those to the opposite base of which he +had penetrated. I was determined, therefore, if practicable, to reach +these hills, deeming it a matter of great importance to connect the +surveys, but I deferred my journey for a day or two, in hopes, from the +continued northerly course of the river, that we should have approached +them nearer. +</P> + +<P> +In the evening we fell in with some more blacks, among whom were two +brothers, of those who were acting as our guides. One had a very pretty +girl as a wife, and all the four brothers were very good-looking young +men. There cannot, I should think, be a numerous population on the +banks of the Morumbidgee, from the fact of our having seen not more +than fifty in an extent of more than 180 miles. They are apparently +scattered along it in families. I was rather surprised that my boy +understood their language well, since it certainly differed from that +of the Macquarie tribes, but nevertheless as these people do not wander +far, our information as to what was before us was very gradually +arrived at, and only as we fell in with the successive families. +Moreover, as my boy was very young, it may be that he was more eager in +communicating to those who had no idea of them, the wonders he had +seen, than in making inquiries on points that were indifferent to him. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. +</H4> + +<P> +We passed a very large plain in the course of the day, which was +bounded by forests of box, cypress, and the acacia pendula, of red +sandy soil and parched appearance. The Morumbidgee evidently overflows +a part of the lands we crossed, to a greater extent than heretofore, +though the alluvial deposits beyond its influence were still both rich +and extensive. The crested pigeon made its appearance on the acacias, +which I took to be a sure sign of our approach to a country more than +ordinarily subject to overflow; since on the Macquarie and the Darling, +those birds were found only to inhabit the regions of marshes, or +spaces covered by the acacia pendula, or the polygonum. We had not, +however, yet seen any of the latter plant, although we were shortly +destined to be almost lost amidst fields of it. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CHANGE IN THE COUNTRY. +</H4> + +<P> +We were now approaching that parallel of longitude in which the other +known rivers of New Holland had been found to exhaust themselves; the +least change therefore, for the worse was sufficient to raise my +apprehensions; yet, although the Morumbidgee had received no tributary +from the Dumot downwards, and was leading us into an apparently endless +level, I saw no indication of its decreasing in size, or in the +rapidity of its current. Certainly, however, I had, from the character +of the country around us, an anticipation that a change was about to +take place in it, and this anticipation was verified in the course of +the following day. The alluvial flats gradually decreased in breadth, +and we journeyed mostly over extensive and barren plains, which in many +places approached so near the river as to form a part of its bank. They +were covered with the salsolaceous class of plants, so common in the +interior, in a red sandy soil, and were as even as a bowling green. The +alluvial spaces near the river became covered with reeds, and, though +subject to overflow at every partial rise of it, were so extremely +small as scarcely to afford food for our cattle. Flooded-gum trees of +lofty size grew on these reedy spaces, and marked the line of the +river, but the timber of the interior appeared stunted and useless. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES; MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +We found this part of the Morumbidgee much more populous than its upper +branches. When we halted, we had no fewer than forty-one natives with +us, of whom the young men were the least numerous. They allowed us to +choose a place for ourselves before they formed their own camp, and +studiously avoided encroaching on our ground so as to appear +troublesome. Their manners were those of a quiet and inoffensive +people, and their appearance in some measure prepossessing. The old men +had lofty foreheads, and stood exceedingly erect. The young men were +cleaner is their persons and were better featured than any we had seen, +some of them having smooth hair and an almost Asiatic cast of +countenance. On the other hand, the women and children were disgusting +objects. The latter were much subject to diseases, and were dreadfully +emaciated. It is evident that numbers of them die in their infancy for +want of care and nourishment. We remarked none at the age of incipient +puberty, but the most of them under six. In stating that the men were +more prepossessing than any we had seen, I would not be understood to +mean that they differed in any material point either from the natives +of the coast, or of the most distant interior to which I had been, for +they were decidedly the same race, and had the same leading features +and customs, as far as the latter could be observed. The sunken eye and +overhanging eyebrow, the high cheek-bone and thick lip, distended +nostrils, the nose either short or acquiline, together with a stout +bust and slender extremities, and both curled and smooth hair, marked +the natives of the Morumbidgee as well as those of the Darling. They +were evidently sprung from one common stock, the savage and scattered +inhabitants of a rude and inhospitable land. In customs they differed +in no material point from the coast natives, and still less from the +tribes on the Darling and the Castlereagh. They extract the front +tooth, lacerate their bodies, to raise the flesh, cicatrices being +their chief ornament; procure food by the same means, paint in the same +manner, and use the same weapons, as far as the productions of the +country will allow them. But as the grass-tree is not found westward of +the mountains, they make a light spear of a reed, similar to that of +which the natives of the southern islands form their arrows. These they +use for distant combat, and not only carry in numbers, but throw with +the boomerang to a great distance and with unerring precision, making +them to all intents and purposes as efficient as the bow and arrow. +They have a ponderous spear for close fight, and others of different +sizes for the chase. With regard to their laws, I believe they are +universally the same all over the known parts of New South Wales. The +old men have alone the privilege of eating the emu; and so submissive +are the young men to this regulation, that if, from absolute hunger or +under other pressing circumstances, one of them breaks through it, +either during a hunting excursion, or whilst absent from his tribe, he +returns under a feeling of conscious guilt, and by his manner betrays +his guilt, sitting apart from the men, and confessing his misdemeanour +to the chief at the first interrogation, upon which he is obliged to +undergo a slight punishment. This evidently is a law of policy and +necessity, for if the emus were allowed to be indiscriminately +slaughtered, they would soon become extinct. Civilised nations may +learn a wholesome lesson even from savages, as in this instance of +their forebearance. For somewhat similar reasons, perhaps, married +people alone are here permitted to eat ducks. They hold their +corrobories, (midnight ceremonies), and sing the same melancholy ditty +that breaks the stillness of night on the shores of Jervis' Bay, or on +the banks of the Macquarie; and during the ceremony imitate the several +birds and beasts with which they are acquainted. If these inland tribes +differ in anything from those on the coast, it is in the mode of +burying their dead, and, partially, in their language. Like all +savages, they consider their women as secondary objects, oblige them to +procure their own food, or throw to them over their shoulders the bones +they have already picked, with a nonchalance that is extremely amusing; +and, on the march, make them beasts of burden to carry their very +weapons. The population of the Morumbidgee, as far as we had descended +it at this time, did not exceed from ninety to a hundred souls. I am +persuaded that disease and accidents consign many of them to a +premature grave. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +MIRAGE. +</H4> + +<P> +From this camp, one family only accompanied us. We journeyed due west +over plains of great extent. The soil upon them was soft and yielding, +in some places being a kind of light earth covered with rhagodiae, in +others a red tenacious clay, overrun by the misembrianthemum and +salsolae. Nothing could exceed the apparent barrenness of these plains, +or the cheerlessness of the landscape. We had left all high lands +behind us, and were now on an extensive plain, bounded in the distance +by low trees or by dark lines of cypresses. The lofty gum-trees on the +river followed its windings, and, as we opened the points, they +appeared, from the peculiar effect of a mirage, as bold promontories +jutting into the ocean, having literally the blue tint of distance. +This mirage floated in a light tremulous vapour on the ground, and not +only deceived us with regard to the extent of the plains, and the +appearance of objects, but hid the trees, in fact, from our view +altogether; so that, in moving, as we imagined, upon the very point or +angle of the river, we found as we neared it, that the trees stretched +much further into the plain, and were obliged to alter our course to +round them. The heated state of the atmosphere, and the sandy nature of +the country could alone have caused a mirage so striking in its +effects, as this,—exceeding considerably similar appearances noticed +during the first expedition. The travelling was so heavy, that I was +obliged to make a short day's journey, and when we struck the river for +the purpose of halting, it had fallen off very much in appearance, and +was evidently much contracted, with low banks and a sandy bed. It was +difficult to account for this sudden change, but when I gazed on the +extent of level country before me, I began to dread that this hitherto +beautiful stream would ultimately disappoint us. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +EXCURSION TOWARDS A RIDGE OF HILLS. +</H4> + +<P> +I had deferred my intended excursion to the hills under which I +imagined Mr. Oxley had encamped, until we were out of sight of them, +and I now feared that it was almost too late to undertake it, but I was +still anxious to determine a point in which I felt considerable +interest. I was the more desirous of surveying the country to the +northward, because of the apparent eagerness with which the natives had +caught at the word Colare, which I recollected having heard a black on +the Macquarie make use of in speaking of the Lachlan. They pointed to +the N.N.W., and making a sweep with the arm raised towards the sky, +seemed to intimate that a large sheet of water existed in that +direction; and added that it communicated with the Morumbidgee more to +the westward. This information confirmed still more my impressions with +regard to Mr. Oxley's line of route; and, as I found a ready volunteer +in M'Leay, I gave the party in charge to Harris until I should rejoin +him, and turned back towards the hills, with the intention of reaching +them if possible. No doubt we should have done so had it not been for +the nature of the ground over which we travelled, and the impossibility +of our exceeding a walk. We rode to a distance of 18 miles, but still +found ourselves far short of the hills, and therefore gave up the +point. I considered, however, that we were about the same distance to +the south, as Mr. Oxley had been to the north of them, and in taking +bearings of the highest points, I afterwards found that they exactly +tallied with his bearings, supposing him to have taken them from his +camp. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +QUIET DEMEANOUR OF THE NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +On our way to the river, we Passed through some dense bushes of +casuarinae and cypresses, to the outskirts of the plains through which +the Morumbidgee winds. We reached the camp two or three hours after +sunset, and found it crowded with natives to the number of 60. They +were extremely quiet and inoffensive in their demeanour, and asked us +to point out where they might sleep, before they ventured to kindle +their fires. One old man, we remarked, had a club foot, and another was +blind, but, as far as we could judge from the glare of the fires, the +generality of them were fine young men, and supported themselves in a +very erect posture when standing or walking. There were many children +with the women, among whom colds seemed to prevail. It blew heavily +from the N.W. during the night, and a little rain fell in the early +part of the morning. Our route during the day, was over as melancholy a +tract as ever was travelled. The plains to the N. and N.W. bounded the +horizon; not a tree of any kind was visible upon them. It was equally +open to the S., and it appeared as if the river was decoying us into a +desert, there to leave us in difficulty and in distress. The very +mirage had the effect of boundlessness in it, by blending objects in +one general hue; or, playing on the ground, it cheated us with an +appearance of water, and on arriving at the spot, we found a +continuation of the same scorching plain, over which we were moving, +instead of the stream we had hoped for. +</P> + +<P> +The cattle about this time began to suffer, and, anxious as I was to +push on, I was obliged to shorten my journeys, according to +circumstances. Amidst the desolation around us, the river kept alive +our hopes. If it traversed deserts, it might reach fertile lands, and +it was to the issue of the journey that we had to look for success. It +here, however, evidently overflowed its banks more extensively than +heretofore, and broad belts of reeds were visible on either side of it, +on which the animals exclusively subsisted. Most of the natives had +followed us, and their patience and abstinence surprised me +exceedingly. Some of them had been more than twenty-four hours without +food, and yet seemed as little disposed to seek it as ever. I really +thought they expected me to supply their wants, but as I could not act +so liberal a scale, George M'Leay undeceived them; after which they +betook themselves to the river, and got a supply of muscles. I rather +think their going so frequently into the water engenders a catarrh, or +renders them more liable to it than they otherwise would be. In the +afternoon the wind shifted to the S.W. It blew a hurricane; and the +temperature of the air was extremely low. The natives felt the cold +beyond belief and kindled large fires. In the morning, when we moved +away, the most of them started with fire-sticks to keep themselves +warm; but they dropped off one by one, and at noon we found ourselves +totally deserted. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DREARINESS OF THE LANDSCAPE. +</H4> + +<P> +It is impossible for me to describe the kind of country we were now +traversing, or the dreariness of the view it presented. The plains were +still open to the horizon, but here and there a stunted gum-tree, or a +gloomy cypress, seemed placed by nature as mourners over the +surrounding desolation. Neither beast nor bird inhabited these lonely +and inhospitable regions, over which the silence of the grave seemed to +reign. We had not, for days past, seen a blade of grass, so that the +animals could not have been in very good condition. We pushed on, +however, sixteen miles, in consequence of the coolness of the weather. +We observed little change in the river in that distance, excepting that +it had taken up a muddy bottom, and lost all the sand that used to fill +it. The soil and productions on the plains continued unchanged in every +respect. From this time to the 22nd, the country presented the same +aspect. Occasional groups of cypress showed themselves on narrow sandy +ridges, or partial brushes extended from the river, consisting chiefly +of the acacia pendula, the stenochylus, and the nut I have already +noticed. The soil on which they grew was, if possible, worse than that +of the barren plain which we were traversing; and their colour and +drooping state rendered the desolate landscape still more dreary. +</P> + +<P> +On the 21st, we found the same singular substance (gypsum) embedded in +the bank of the river that had been collected, during the former +expedition, on the banks of the Darling; and hope, which is always +uppermost in the human breast, induced me to think that we were fast +approaching that stream. My observations placed me in 34 degrees 17 +minutes 15 seconds S. and 145 degrees of E. longitude. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +BLACK BOY DESERTS. +</H4> + +<P> +On the 22nd, my black boy deserted me. I was not surprised at his doing +so, neither did I regret his loss, for he had been of little use under +any circumstances. He was far too cunning for our purpose. I know not +that the term ingratitude can be applied to one in his situation, and +in whose bosom nature had implanted a love of freedom. We learnt from +four blacks, with whom he had spoken, and who came to us in the +afternoon, that he had gone up the river,—as I conjectured, to the +last large tribe we had left, with whom he appeared to become very +intimate. +</P> + +<P> +A creek coming from the N.N.W. here fell into the Morumbidgee; a proof +that the general decline of country was really to the south, although a +person looking over it would have supposed the contrary. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +COUNTRY SUBJECT TO INUNDATION. +</H4> + +<P> +We started on the 23rd, with the same boundlessness of plain on either +side of us; but in the course of the morning a change took place, both +in soil and productions; and from the red sandy loam, and salsolaceous +plants, amidst which we had been toiling, we got upon a light tenacious +and blistered soil, evidently subject to frequent overflow, and fields +of polygonum junceum, amidst which, both the crested pigeon and the +black quail were numerous. The drays and animals sank so deep in this, +that we were obliged to make for the river, and keep upon its immediate +banks. Still, with all the appearance of far-spread inundation, it +continued undiminished in size, and apparently in the strength of its +current. Its channel was deeper than near the mountains, but its +breadth was about the same. +</P> + +<P> +On the 24th, we were again entangled amidst fields of polygonum, +through which we laboured until after eleven, when we gained a firmer +soil. Some cypresses appeared upon our right, in a dark line, and I +indulged hopes that a change was about to take place in the nature of +the country. We soon, however, got on a light rotten earth, and were +again obliged to make for the river, with the teams completely +exhausted. We had not travelled many miles from our last camp, yet it +struck me, that the river had fallen off in appearance. I examined it +with feelings of intense anxiety, certain, as I was, that the flooded +spaces, over which we had been travelling would, sooner or later, be +succeeded by a country overgrown with reeds. The river evidently +overflowed its banks, on both sides, for many miles, nor had I a doubt +that, at some periods, the space northward, between it and the Lachlan, +presented the appearance of one vast sea. The flats of polygonum +stretched away to the N.W. to an amazing distance, as well as in a +southerly direction, and the very nature of the soil bore testimony to +its flooded origin. But the most unaccountable circumstance to me was, +that it should be entirely destitute of vegetation, with the exception +of the gloomy and leafless bramble I have noticed. +</P> + +<P> +M'Leay, who was always indefatigable in his pursuit after subjects of +natural history, shot a cockatoo, of a new species, hereabouts, having +a singularly shaped upper mandible. It was white, with scarlet down +under the neck feathers, smaller than the common cockatoo, and +remarkable for other peculiarities. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES; THE COLARE OR LACHLAN. +</H4> + +<P> +Two or three natives made their appearance at some distance from the +party, but would not approach it until after we had halted. They then +came to the tents, seven in number, and it was evident from their +manner, that their chief or only object was to pilfer anything they +could. We did not, therefore, treat them with much ceremony. They were +an ill-featured race, and it was only by strict watching during the +night that they were prevented from committing theft. Probably from +seeing that we were aware of their intentions, they left us early, and +pointing somewhat to the eastward of north, said they were going to the +Colare, and on being asked how far it was, they signified that they +should sleep there. I had on a former occasion recollected the term +having been made use of by a black, on the Macquarie, when speaking to +me of the Lachlan, and had questioned one of the young men who was with +us at the time, and who seemed more intelligent than his companions, +respecting it. Immediately catching at the word, he had pointed to the +N.N.W., and, making a sweep with his arms raised towards the sky had +intimated, evidently, that a large sheet of water existed in that +direction, in the same manner that another black had done on a former +occasion: on being further questioned, he stated that this communicated +with the Morumbidgee more to the westward, and on my expressing a +desire to go to it, he said we could not do so under four days. We had, +it appeared, by the account of the seven natives, approached within one +day's journey of it, and, as I thought it would be advisable to gain a +little knowledge of the country to the north, I suggested to M'Leay to +ride in that direction, while the party should be at rest, with some +good feed for the cattle that fortune had pointed out to us. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +EXCURSION TOWARDS THE LACHLAN. +</H4> + +<P> +Our horses literally sank up to their knees on parts of the great plain +over which we had in the first instance to pass, and we rode from three +to four miles before we caught sight of a distant wood at its northern +extremity; the view from the river having been for the last two or +three days, as boundless as the ocean. As we approached the wood, two +columns of smoke rose from it, considerably apart, evidently the fires +of natives near water. We made for the central space between them, +having a dead acacia scrub upon our right. On entering the wood, we +found that it contained for the most part, flooded-gum, under which +bulrushes and reeds were mixed together. The whole space seemed liable +to overflow, and we crossed numerous little drains, that intersected +each other in every direction. From the resemblance of the ground to +that at the bottom of the marshes of the Macquarie, I prognosticated to +my companion that we should shortly come upon a creek, and we had not +ridden a quarter of a mile further, when we found ourselves on the +banks of one of considerable size. Crossing it, we proceeded northerly, +until we got on the outskirts of a plain of red sandy soil, covered +with rhagodia alone, and without a tree upon the visible horizon. The +country appeared to be rising before us, but was extremely depressed to +the eastward. After continuing along this plain for some time, I became +convinced from appearances, that we were receding from water, and that +the fires of the natives, which were no longer visible, must have been +on the creek we had crossed, that I judged to be leading W.S.W. from +the opposite quarter. We had undoubtedly struck below to the westward +of the Colare or Lachlan, and the creek was the channel of +communication between it and the Morumbidgee, at least such was the +natural conclusion at which I arrived. Having no further object in +continuing a northerly course, we turned to the S.E., and, after again +passing the creek, struck away for the camp on a S. by W. course, and +passed through a dense brush of cypress and casuarina in our way to it. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CONNECTION OF LACHLAN WITH MORUMBIDGEE. +</H4> + +<P> +Considering our situation as connected with the marshes of the Lachlan, +I cannot but infer that the creek we struck upon during this excursion +serves as a drain to the latter, to conduct its superfluous waters into +the Morumbidgee in times of flood, as those of the Macquarie are +conducted by the creek at the termination of its marshes into +Morrisset's Chain of Ponds. It will be understood that I only surmise +this. I argue from analogy, not from proof. Whether I am correct or +not, my knowledge of the facts I have stated, tended very much to +satisfy my mind as to the LAY of the interior; and to revive my hopes +that the Morumbidgee would not fail us, although there was no +appearance of the country improving. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +COUNTRY COVERED WITH REEDS. +</H4> + +<P> +We started on the 26th, on a course somewhat to the N.W., and traversed +plains of the same wearisome description as those I have already +described. The wheels of the drays sank up to their axle-trees, and the +horses above their fetlocks at every step. The fields of polygonum +spread on every side of us like a dark sea, and the only green object +within range of our vision was the river line of trees. In several +instances, the force of both teams was put to one dray, to extricate it +from the bed into which it had sunk, and the labour was considerably +increased from the nature of the weather. The wind was blowing as if +through a furnace, from the N.N.E., and the dust was flying in clouds, +so as to render it almost suffocating to remain exposed to it. This was +the only occasion upon which we felt the hot winds in the interior. We +were, about noon, endeavouring to gain a point of a wood at which I +expected to come upon the river again, but it was impossible for the +teams to reach it without assistance. I therefore sent M'Leay forward, +with orders to unload the pack animals as soon as he should make the +river, and send them back to help the teams. He had scarcely been +separated from me 20 minutes, when one of the men came galloping back +to inform me that no river was to be found—that the country beyond the +wood was covered with reeds as far as the eye could reach, and that Mr. +M'Leay had sent him back for instructions. This intelligence stunned me +for a moment or two, and I am sure its effect upon the men was very +great. They had unexpectedly arrived at a part of the interior similar +to one they had held in dread, and conjured up a thousand difficulties +and privations. I desired the man to recall Mr. M'Leay; and, after +gaining the wood, moved outside of it at right angles to my former +course, and reached the river, after a day of severe toil and exposure, +at half-past five. The country, indeed, bore every resemblance to that +around the marshes of the Macquarie, but I was too weary to make any +further effort: indeed it was too late for me undertake anything until +the morning. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ANXIOUS COGITATIONS; SURVEY OF RIVER AND ENVIRONS. +</H4> + +<P> +The circumstances in which we were so unexpectedly placed, occupied my +mind so fully that I could not sleep; and I awaited the return of light +with the utmost anxiety. If we were indeed on the outskirts of marshes +similar to those I had on a former occasion found so much difficulty in +examining, I foresaw that in endeavouring to move round then I should +recede from water, and place the expedition in jeopardy, probably, +without gaining any determinate point, as it would be necessary for me +to advance slowly and with caution. Our provisions, however, being +calculated to last only to a certain period, I was equally reluctant to +delay our operations. My course was, therefore, to be regulated by the +appearance of the country and of the river, which I purposed examining +with the earliest dawn. If the latter should be found to run into a +region of reeds, a boat would be necessary to enable me to ascertain +its direction; but, if ultimately it should be discovered to exhaust +itself, we should have to strike into the interior on a N.W. course, in +search of the Darling. I could not think of putting the whale-boat +together in our then state of uncertainty, and it struck me that a +smaller one could sooner he prepared for the purposes for which I +should require it. These considerations, together with the view I had +taken of the measures I might at last be forced into, determined me, on +rising, to order Clayton to fell a suitable tree, and to prepare a +saw-pit. The labour was of no consideration, and even if eventually the +boat should not be wanted, no injury would arise, and it was better to +take time by the forelock. Having marked a tree preparatory to leaving +the camp, M'Leay and I started at an early hour on an excursion of +deeper interest than any we had as yet undertaken; to examine the +reeds, not only for the purpose of ascertaining their extent, if +possible, but also to guide us in our future measures. We rode for some +miles along the river side, but observed in it no signs, either of +increase or of exhaustion. Its waters, though turbid, were deep, and +its current still rapid. Its banks, too, were lofty, and showed no +evidence of decreasing in height, so as to occasion an overflow of +them, as had been the case with the Macquarie. We got among vast bodies +of reeds, but the plains of the interior were visible beyond them. We +were evidently in a hollow, and the decline of country was plainly to +the southward of west. Every thing tended to strengthen my conviction +that we were still far from the termination of the river. The character +it had borne throughout, and its appearance now so far to the westward, +gave me the most lively hopes that it would make good its way through +the vast level into which it fell, and that its termination would +accord with its promise. Besides, I daily anticipated its junction with +some stream of equal, if not of greater magnitude from the S.E. I was +aware that my resolves must be instant, decisive, and immediately acted +upon, as on firmness and promptitude at this crisis the success of the +expedition depended. About noon I checked my horse, and rather to the +surprise of my companion, intimated to him my intention of returning to +the camp, He naturally asked what I purposed doing. I told him it +appeared to me more than probable that the Morumbidgee would hold good +its course to some fixed point, now that it had reached a meridian +beyond the known rivers of the interior. It was certain, from the +denseness of the reeds, and the breadth of the belts, that the teams +could not be brought any farther, and that, taking every thing into +consideration, I had resolved on a bold and desperate measure, that of +building the whale-boat, and sending home the drays. Our appearance in +camp so suddenly, surprised the men not more than the orders I gave. +They all thought I had struck on some remarkable change of country, and +were anxious to know my ultimate views. It was not my intention +however, immediately to satisfy their curiosity. I had to study their +characters as long as I could, in order to select those best qualified +to accompany me on the desperate adventure for which I was preparing. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +BOAT BUILDING. +</H4> + +<P> +The attention both of M'Leay, and myself, was turned to the hasty +building of the whale-boat. A shed was erected, and every necessary +preparation made, and although Clayton had the keel of the small boat +already laid down, and some planks prepared, she was abandoned for the +present, and, after four days more of arduous labour, the whale-boat +was painted and in the water. From her dimensions, it appeared to me +impossible that she would hold all our provisions and stores, for her +after-part had been fitted up as an armoury, which took away +considerably from her capacity of stowage. The small boat would still, +therefore, be necessary, and she was accordingly re-laid, for half the +dimensions of the large boat, and in three days was alongside her +consort in the river. Thus, in seven days we had put together a boat, +twenty-seven feet in length, had felled a tree from the forest, with +which we had built a second of half the size, had painted both, and had +them at a temporary wharf ready for loading. Such would not have been +the case had not our hearts been in the work, as the weather was close +and sultry, and we found it a task of extreme labour. In the intervals +between the hours of work, I prepared my despatches for the Governor, +and when they were closed, it only remained for me to select six hands, +the number I intended should accompany me down the river, and to load +the boats, ere we should once more proceed in the further obedience of +our instructions. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +COMPLETION OF ARRANGEMENTS FOR EMBARKATION. +</H4> + +<P> +It was impossible that I could do without Clayton, whose perseverance +and industry had mainly contributed to the building of the boats; of +the other prisoners, I chose Mulholland and Macnamee; leaving the rest +in charge of Robert Harris, whose steady conduct had merited my +approbation. My servant, Harris, Hopkinson, and Fraser, of course, made +up the crews. The boats were loaded in the evening of Jan. 6th, as it +had been necessary to give the paint a little time to dry. On the 4th, +I had sent Clayton and Mulholland to the nearest cypress range for a +mast and spar, and on the evening of that day some blacks had visited +us; but they sat on the bank of the river, preserving a most determined +silence; and, at length, left us abruptly, and apparently in great ill +humour. In the disposition of the loads, I placed all the flour, the +tea, and tobacco, in the whaleboat. The meat-casks, still, and +carpenters' tools, were put into the small boat. +</P> + +<P> +As soon as the different arrangements were completed, I collected the +men, and told off those who were to accompany me. I then gave the rest +over in charge to Harris, and, in adverting to their regular conduct +hitherto, trusted they would be equally careful while under his orders. +I then directed the last remaining sheep to be equally divided among +us; and it was determined that, for fear of accidents, Harris should +remain stationary for a week, at the expiration of which time, he would +be at liberty to proceed to Goulburn Plains, there to receive his +instructions from Sydney; while the boats were to proceed at an early +hour of the morning down the river,—whether ever to return again being +a point of the greatest uncertainty. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap04"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER IV. +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Embarkation of the party in the boats, and voyage down the +Morumbidgee—The skiff swamped by striking on a sunken tree—Recovery +of boat and its loading—Region of reeds—Dangers of the +navigation—Contraction of the channel—Reach the junction of a large +river—Intercourse with the natives on its banks—Character of the +country below the junction of the rivers—Descent of a dangerous +rapid—Warlike demonstrations of a tribe of natives—Unexpected +deliverance from a conflict with them—Junction of another river—Give +the name of the "Murray" to the principal stream. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +The camp was a scene of bustle and confusion long before day-light. The +men whom I had selected to accompany me were in high spirits, and so +eager to commence their labours that they had been unable to sleep, but +busied themselves from the earliest dawn in packing up their various +articles of clothing, &c. We were prevented from taking our departure +so early as I had intended, by rain that fell about six. At a little +after seven, however, the weather cleared up, the morning mists blew +over our heads, and the sun struck upon us with his usual fervour. As +soon as the minor things were stowed away, we bade adieu to Harris and +his party; and shortly after, embarked on the bosom of that stream +along the banks of which we had journeyed for so many miles. +</P> + +<P> +Notwithstanding that we only used two oars, our progress down the river +was rapid. Hopkinson had arranged the loads so well, that all the party +could sit at their ease, and Fraser was posted in the bow of the boat, +with gun in hand, to fire at any new bird or beast that we might +surprise in our silent progress. The little boat, which I shall +henceforward call the skiff, was fastened by a painter to our stern. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +SUPPOSED JUNCTION OF LACHLAN. +</H4> + +<P> +As the reader will have collected from what has already fallen under +his notice, the country near the depot was extensively covered with +reeds, beyond which vast plains of polygonum stretched away. From the +bed of the river we could not observe the change that took place in it +as we passed along, so that we found it necessary to land, from time to +time, for the purpose of noting down its general appearance. At about +fifteen miles from the depot, we came upon a large creek-junction from +the N.E., which I did not doubt to be the one M'Leay and I had crossed +on the 25th of December. It was much larger than the creek of the +Macquarie, and was capable of holding a very great body of water, +although evidently too small to contain all that occasionally rushed +from its source. I laid it down as the supposed junction of the +Lachlan, since I could not, against the corroborating facts in my +possession, doubt its originating in the marshes of that river. Should +this, eventually, prove to be the case, the similar termination of the +two streams traced by Mr. Oxley will be a singular feature in the +geography of the interior. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +EMUS—NATIVE TOMB. +</H4> + +<P> +We were just about to land, to prepare our dinner, when two emus swam +across the river ahead of us. This was an additional inducement for us +to land, but we were unfortunately too slow, and the birds escaped us. +We had rushed in to the right bank, and found on ascending it, that the +reeds with which it had hitherto been lined, had partially ceased. A +large plain, similar to those over which we had wandered prior to our +gaining the flooded region, stretched away to a considerable distance +behind us, and was backed by cypresses and brush. The soil of the plain +was a red sandy loam, covered sparingly with salsolae and shrubs; thus +indicating that the country still preserved its barren character, and +that it is the same from north to south. Among the shrubs we found a +tomb that appeared to have been recently constructed. No mound had been +raised over the body, but an oval hollow shed occupied the centre of +the burial place, that was lined with reeds and bound together with +strong net-work. Round this, the usual walks were cut, and the recent +traces of women's feet were visible upon them, but we saw no natives, +although, from the number and size of the paths that led from the +river, in various directions across the plain, I was led to conclude, +that, at certain seasons, it is hereabouts numerously frequented. +Fraser gathered some rushes similar to those used by the natives of the +Darling in the fabrication of their nets, and as they had not before +been observed, we judged them, of course, to be a sign of our near +approach to that river. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ASPECT OF COUNTRY AND RIVER. +</H4> + +<P> +As soon as we had taken a hasty dinner, we again embarked, and pursued +our journey. I had hoped, from the appearance of the country to the +north of us, although that to the south gave little indication of any +change, that we should soon clear the reeds; but at somewhat less than +a mile they closed in upon the river, and our frequent examination of +the neighbourhood on either side of it only tended to confirm the fact, +that we were passing through a country subject to great and extensive +inundation. We pulled up at half-past five, and could scarcely find +space enough to pitch our tents. +</P> + +<P> +The Morumbidgee kept a decidedly westerly course during the day. Its +channel was not so tortuous as we expected to have found it, nor did it +offer any obstruction to the passage of the boats. Its banks kept a +general height of eight feet, five of which were of alluvial soil, and +both its depth and its current were considerable. We calculated having +proceeded from 28 to 30 miles, though, perhaps, not more than half that +distance in a direct line. No rain fell during the day, but we +experienced some heavy squalls from the E.S.E. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +THE SKIFF STRIKES AND SINKS—LABOUR IN RECOVERING ARTICLES LOST. +</H4> + +<P> +The second day of our journey from the depot was marked by an accident +that had well nigh obliged us to abandon the further pursuit of the +river, by depriving us of part of our means of carrying it into effect. +We had proceeded, as usual, at an early hour in the morning, and not +long after we started, fell in with the blacks who had visited us last, +and who were now in much better humour than upon that occasion. As they +had their women with them, we pushed in to the bank, and distributed +some presents, after which we dropped quietly down the river. Its +general depth had been such as to offer few obstructions to our +progress, but about an hour after we left the natives, the skiff struck +upon a sunken log, and immediately filling, went down in about twelve +feet of water, The length of the painter prevented any strain upon the +whale-boat, but the consequence of so serious an accident at once +flashed upon our minds. That we should suffer considerably, we could +not doubt, but our object was to get the skiff up with the least +possible delay, to prevent the fresh water from mixing with the brine, +in the casks of meat. Some short time, however, necessarily elapsed +before we could effect this, and when at last the skiff was hauled +ashore, we found that we were too late to prevent the mischief that we +had anticipated. All the things had been fastened in the boat, but +either from the shock, or the force of the current, one of the pork +casks, the head of the still, and the greater part of the carpenter's +tools, had been thrown out of her. As the success of the expedition +might probably depend upon the complete state of the still, I +determined to use every effort for its recovery: but I was truly at a +loss how to find it; for the waters of the river were extremely turbid. +In this dilemma, the blacks would have been of the most essential +service, but they were far behind us, so that we had to depend on our +own exertions alone. I directed the whale-boat to be moored over the +place where the accident had happened, and then used the oars on either +side of her, to feel along the bottom of the river, in hopes that by +these means we should strike upon the articles we had lost. However +unlikely such a measure was to prove successful, we recovered in the +course of the afternoon, every thing but the still-head, and a cask of +paint. Whenever the oar struck against the substance that appeared, by +its sound or feel to belong to us, it was immediately pushed into the +sand, and the upper end of the oar being held by two men, another +descended by it to the bottom of the river, remaining under water as +long as he could, to ascertain what was immediately within arm's length +of him. This work was, as may be imagined, most laborious, and the men +at length became much exhausted. They would not, however, give up the +search for the still head, more especially after M'Leay, in diving, had +descended upon it. Had he, by ascertaining his position, left it to us +to heave it up, our labours would soon have ended; but, in his anxiety +for its recovery, he tried to bring it up, when finding it too heavy, +he let it go, and the current again swept it away. +</P> + +<P> +At sunset, we were obliged to relinquish our task, the men complaining +of violent head-aches, which the nature of the day increased. Thinking +our own efforts would be unavailing, I directed two of the men to go up +the river for the blacks, at day-light in the morning, and set the +reeds on fire to attract their notice. The day had been cloudy and +sultry in the afternoon, the clouds collecting in the N.E.: we heard +the distant thunder, and expected to have been deluged with rain. None, +however, fell, although we were anxious for moisture to change the +oppressive state of the atmosphere. The fire I had kindled raged behind +us, and threw dense columns of smoke into the sky, that cast over the +landscape a shade of the most dismal gloom. We were not in a humour to +admire the picturesque, but soon betook ourselves to rest, and after +such a day of labour as that we had undergone, I dispensed with the +night guard. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +PILFERING OF NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +In the morning we resumed our search for the still head, which +Hopkinson at length fortunately struck with his oar. It had been swept +considerably below the place at which M'Leay had dived, or we should +most probably have found it sooner. With its recovery, all our fatigues +were at once forgotten, and I ordered the breakfast to be got ready +preparatory to our reloading the skiff. Fraser and Mulholland, who had +left the camp at daylight, had not yet returned. I was sitting in the +tent, when Macnamee came to inform me that one of the frying-pans was +missing, which had been in use the evening previous, for that he +himself had placed it on the stump of a tree, and he therefore supposed +a native dog had run away with it. Soon after this, another loss was +reported to me, and it was at last discovered that an extensive robbery +had been committed upon us during the night, and that, in addition to +the frying-pan, three cutlasses, and five tomahawks, with the pea of +the steelyards, had been carried away. I was extremely surprised at +this instance of daring in the natives, and determined, if possible, to +punish it. About ten, Fraser and Mulholland returned with two blacks. +Fraser told me he saw several natives on our side of the river, as he +was returning, to whom those who were with him spoke, and I felt +convinced from their manner and hesitation, that they were aware of the +trick that had been played upon us. However, as Fraser had promised +them a tomahawk to induce them to accompany him, I fulfilled the +promise. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CONTINUE OUR VOYAGE. +</H4> + +<P> +Leaving this unlucky spot, we made good about sixteen miles during the +afternoon. The river maintained its breadth and depth nor were the +reeds continuous upon its banks. We passed several plains that were +considerably elevated above the alluvial deposits, and the general +appearance of the country induced me strongly to hope that we should +shortly get out of the region of reeds, or the great flooded concavity +on which we had fixed our depot; but the sameness of vegetation, and +the seemingly diminutive size of the timber in the distance, argued +against any change for the better in the soil of the interior. Having +taken the precaution of shortening the painter of the skiff, we found +less difficulty in steering her clear of obstacles, and made rapid +progress down the Morumbidgee during the first cool and refreshing +hours of the morning. The channel of the river became somewhat less +contracted, but still retained sufficient depth for larger boats than +ours, and preserved a general westerly course. Although no decline of +country was visible to the eye, the current in places ran very strong. +It is impossible for me to convey to the reader's mind an idea of the +nature of the country through which we passed. On this day the +favourable appearances, noticed yesterday, ceased almost as soon as we +embarked. On the 10th, reeds lined the banks of the river on both +sides, without any break, and waved like gloomy streamers over its +turbid waters; while the trees stood leafless and sapless in the midst +of them. Wherever we landed, the same view presented itself—a waving +expanse of reeds, and a country as flat as it is possible to imagine +one. The eye could seldom penetrate beyond three quarters of a mile, +and the labour of walking through the reeds was immense; but within our +observation all was green and cheerless. The morning had been extremely +cold, with a thick haze at E.S.E. About 2 p.m. it came on to rain +heavily, so that we did not stir after that hour. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CONTRACTION OF THE CHANNEL. +</H4> + +<P> +I had remarked that the Morumbidgee was not, from the depot downwards, +so broad or so fine a river as it certainly is at the foot of the +mountain ranges, where it gains the level country. The observations of +the last two days had impressed upon my mind an idea that it was +rapidly falling off, and I began to dread that it would finally +terminate in one of those fatal marshes in which the Macquarie and the +Lachlan exhaust themselves. My hope of a more favourable issue was +considerably damped by the general appearance of the surrounding +country; and from the circumstance of our not having as yet passed a +single tributary. As we proceeded down the river, its channel gradually +contracted, and immense trees that had been swept down it by floods, +rendered the navigation dangerous and intricate. Its waters became so +turbid, that it was impossible to see objects in it, notwithstanding +the utmost diligence on the part of the men. +</P> + +<P> +About noon, we fell in with a large tribe of natives, but had great +difficulty in bringing them to visit us. If they had HEARD of white +men, we were evidently the first they had ever SEEN. They approached us +in the most cautious manner, and were unable to subdue their fears as +long as they remained with us. Collectively, these people could not +have amounted to less than one hundred and twenty in number. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ANOTHER ACCIDENT. +</H4> + +<P> +As we pushed off from the bank, after having stayed with them about +half an hour, the whaleboat struck with such violence on a sunken log, +that she immediately leaked on her starboard side. Fortunately she was +going slowly at the time, or she would most probably have received some +more serious injury. One of the men was employed during the remainder +of the afternoon in bailing her out, and we stopped sooner than we +should otherwise have done, in order to ascertain the extent of damage, +and to repair it. The reeds terminated on both sides of the river some +time before we pulled up, and the country round the camp was more +elevated than usual, and bore the appearance of open forest pasture +land, the timber upon it being a dwarf species of box, and the soil a +light tenacious earth. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER. +</H4> + +<P> +About a mile below our encampment of the 12th, we at length came upon a +considerable creek-junction from the S.E. Below it, the river increased +both in breadth and depth; banks were lofty and perpendicular, and even +the lowest levels were but partially covered with reeds. We met with +fewer obstructions in consequence, and pursued our journey with +restored confidence. Towards evening a great change also took place in +the aspect of the country, which no longer bore general marks of +inundation. The level of the interior was broken by a small hill to the +right of the stream, but the view from its summit rather damped than +encouraged my hopes of any improvement. The country was covered with +wood and brush, and the line of the horizon was unbroken by the least +swell. We were on an apparently boundless flat, without any fixed point +on which to direct our movements, nor was there a single object for the +eye to rest upon, beyond the dark and gloomy wood that surrounded us on +every side. +</P> + +<P> +Soon after passing this hill, the whale-boat struck upon a line of +sunken rocks, but fortunately escaped without injury. Mulholland, who +was standing in the bow, was thrown out of her, head foremost, and got +a good soaking, but soon recovered himself. The composition of the rock +was iron-stone, and it is the first formation that occurs westward of +the dividing range. We noticed a few cypresses in the distance, but the +general timber was dwarf-box, or flooded-gum, and a few of the acacia +longa scattered at great distances. In verifying our position by some +lunars, we found ourselves in 142 degrees 46 minutes 30 seconds of east +long., and in lat. 35 degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds S. the mean +variation of the compass being 4 degrees 10 minutes E. it appearing +that we were decreasing the variation as we proceeded westward. +</P> + +<P> +On the 13th, we passed the first running stream that joins the +Morumbidgee, in a course of more than 340 miles. It came from the S.E., +and made a visible impression on the river at the junction, although in +tracing it up, it appeared to be insignificant in itself. The +circumstance of these tributaries all occurring on the left, evidenced +the level nature of the country to the north. In the afternoon, we +passed a dry creek also from the S.E. which must at times throw a vast +supply of water into the river, since for many miles below, the latter +preserved a breadth of 200 feet, and averaged from 12 to 20 feet in +depth, with banks of from 15 to 18 feet in height. Yet, notwithstanding +its general equality of depth, several rapids occurred, down which the +boats were hurried with great velocity. The body of water in the river +continued undiminished, notwithstanding its increased breadth of +channel; for which reason I should imagine that it is fed by springs, +independently of other supplies. Some few cypresses were again +observed, and the character of the distant country resembled, in every +particular, that of the interior between the Macquarie and the Darling. +The general appearance of the Morumbidgee, from the moment of our +starting on the 13th, to a late hour in the afternoon, had been such as +to encourage my hopes of ultimate success in tracing it down; but about +three o'clock we came to one of those unaccountable and mortifying +changes which had already so frequently excited my apprehension. Its +channel again suddenly contracted, and became almost blocked up with +huge trees, that must have found their way into it down the creeks or +junctions we had lately passed. The rapidity of the current increasing +at the same time, rendered the navigation perplexing and dangerous. We +passed reach after reach, presenting the same difficulties, and were at +length obliged to pull up at 5 p.m., having a scene of confusion and +danger before us that I did not dare to encounter with the evening's +light; for I had not only observed that the men's eye-sight failed them +as the sun descended, and that they mistook shadows for objects under +water, and VICE-VERSA, but the channel had become so narrow that, +although the banks were not of increased height, we were involved in +comparative darkness, under a close arch of trees, and a danger was +hardly seen ere we were hurried past it, almost without the possibility +of avoiding it. The reach at the head of which we stopped, was crowded +with the trunks of trees, the branches of which crossed each other in +every direction, nor could I hope, after a minute examination of the +channel, to succeed in taking the boats safely down so intricate a +passage. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DANGEROUS NAVIGATION OF THE MORUMBIDGEE. +</H4> + +<P> +We rose in the morning with feelings of apprehension, and uncertainty; +and, indeed, with great doubts on our minds whether we were not thus +early destined to witness the wreck, and the defeat of the expedition. +The men got slowly and cautiously into the boat, and placed themselves +so as to leave no part of her undefended. Hopkinson stood at the bow, +ready with poles to turn her head from anything upon which she might be +drifting. Thus prepared, we allowed her to go with the stream. By +extreme care and attention on the part of the men we passed this +formidable barrier. Hopkinson in particular exerted himself, and more +than once leapt from the boat upon apparently rotten logs of wood, that +I should not have judged capable of bearing his weight, the more +effectually to save the boat. It might have been imagined that where +such a quantity of timber had accumulated, a clearer channel would have +been found below, but such was not the case. In every reach we had to +encounter fresh difficulties. In some places huge trees lay athwart the +stream, under whose arched branches we were obliged to pass; but, +generally speaking, they had been carried, roots foremost, by the +current, and, therefore, presented so many points to receive us, that, +at the rate at which we were going, had we struck full upon any one of +them, it would have gone through and through the boat. About noon we +stopped to repair, or rather to take down the remains of our awning, +which had been torn away; and to breathe a moment from the state of +apprehension and anxiety in which our minds had been kept during the +morning. About one, we again started. The men looked anxiously out +ahead; for the singular change in the river had impressed on them an +idea, that we were approaching its termination, or near some adventure. +On a sudden, the river took a general southern direction, but, in its +tortuous course, swept round to every point of the compass with the +greatest irregularity. We were carried at a fearful rate down its +gloomy and contracted banks, and, in such a moment of excitement, had +little time to pay attention to the country through which we were +passing. It was, however, observed, that chalybeate-springs were +numerous close to the water's edge. At 3 p.m., Hopkinson called out +that we were approaching a junction, and in less than a minute +afterwards, we were hurried into a broad and noble river. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +JUNCTION OF A LARGE RIVER—CHARACTER OF THE RIVER. +</H4> + +<P> +It is impossible for me to describe the effect of so instantaneous a +change of circumstances upon us. The boats were allowed to drift along +at pleasure, and such was the force with which we had been shot out of +the Morumbidgee, that we were carried nearly to the bank opposite its +embouchure, whilst we continued to gaze in silent astonishment on the +capacious channel we had entered; and when we looked for that by which +we had been led into it, we could hardly believe that the insignificant +gap that presented itself to us was, indeed, the termination of the +beautiful and noble stream, whose course we had thus successfully +followed. I can only compare the relief we experienced to that which +the seaman feels on weathering the rock upon which he expected his +vessel would have struck—to the calm which succeeds moments of +feverish anxiety, when the dread of danger is succeeded by the +certainty of escape. +</P> + +<P> +To myself personally, the discovery of this river was a circumstance of +a particularly gratifying nature, since it not only confirmed the +justness of my opinion as to the ultimate fate of the Morumbidgee, and +bore me out in the apparently rash and hasty step I had taken at the +depot, but assured me of ultimate success in the duty I had to perform. +We had got on the high road, as it were, either to the south coast, or +to some important outlet; and the appearance of the river itself was +such as to justify our most sanguine expectations. I could not doubt +its being the great channel of the streams from the S.E. angle of the +island. Mr. Hume had mentioned to me that he crossed three very +considerable streams, when employed with Mr. Hovell in 1823 in +penetrating towards Port Phillips, to which the names of the Goulburn, +the Hume, and the Ovens, had been given; and as I was 300 miles from +the track these gentlemen had pursued, I considered it more than +probable that those rivers must already have formed a junction above +me, more especially when I reflected that the convexity of the +mountains to the S.E. would necessarily direct the waters falling +inwards from them to a common centre. +</P> + +<P> +We entered the new river at right angles, and, as I have remarked, at +the point of junction the channel of the Morumbidgee had narrowed so as +to bear all the appearance of an ordinary creek. In breadth it did not +exceed fifty feet, and if, instead of having passed down it, I had been +making my way up the principal streams, I should little have dreamt +that so dark and gloomy an outlet concealed a river that would lead me +to the haunts of civilized man, and whose fountains rose amidst +snow-clad mountains. Such, however, is the characteristic of the +streams falling to the westward of the coast ranges. Descending into a +low and level interior, and depending on their immediate springs for +existence, they fall off, as they increase their distance from the base +of the mountains in which they rise, and in their lower branches give +little results of the promise they had previously made. +</P> + +<P> +The opinion I have expressed, and which is founded on my personal +experience, that the rivers crossed by Messrs. Hovell and Hume had +already united above me, was strengthened by the capacity of the stream +we had just discovered. It had a medium width of 350 feet, with a depth +of from twelve to twenty. Its reaches were from half to three-quarters +of a mile in length, and the views upon it were splendid. Of course, as +the Morumbidgee entered it from the north, its first reach must have +been E. and W., and it was so, as nearly as possible; but it took us a +little to the southward of the latter point, in a distance of about +eight miles that we pulled down it in the course of the afternoon. We +then landed and pitched our tents for the night. Its transparent waters +were running over a sandy bed at the rate of two-and-a-half knots an +hour, and its banks, although averaging eighteen feet in height, were +evidently subject to floods. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ABSENCE OF NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +We had not seen any natives since falling in with the last tribe on the +Morumbidgee. A cessation had, therefore, taken place in our +communication with them, in re-establishing which I anticipated +considerable difficulty. It appeared singular that we should not have +fallen in with any for several successive days, more especially at the +junction of the two rivers, as in similar situations they generally +have an establishment. In examining the country back from the stream, I +did not observe any large paths, but it was evident that fires had made +extensive ravages in the neighbourhood, so that the country was, +perhaps, only temporarily deserted. Macnamee, who had wandered a little +from the tents, declared that he had seen about a dozen natives round a +fire, from whom (if he really did see them) he very precipitately fled, +but I was inclined to discredit his story, because in our journey on +the following day, we did not see even a casual wanderer. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +WEATHER, TEMPERATURE, &c. +</H4> + +<P> +The river maintained its character, and raised our hopes to the highest +pitch. Its breadth varied from 160 to 200 yards; and only in one place, +where a reef of iron-stone stretched nearly across from the left bank, +so as to contract the channel near the right and to form a considerable +rapid, was there any apparent obstruction to our navigation. I was +sorry, however, to remark that the breadth of alluvial soil between its +outer and inner banks was very inconsiderable, and that the upper +levels were poor and sandy. Blue-gum generally occupied the former, +while the usual productions of the plains still predominated upon the +latter, and showed that the distant interior had not yet undergone any +favourable change. We experienced strong breezes from the north, but +the range of the thermometer was high, and the weather rather +oppressive than otherwise. On the night of the 16th, we had a strong +wind from the N.W., but it moderated with day-light, and shifted to the +E.N.E., and the day was favourable and cool. Our progress was in every +way satisfactory, and if any change had taken place in the river, it +was that the banks had increased in height, in many places to thirty +feet, the soil being a red loam, and the surface much above the reach +of floods. The bank opposite to the one that was so elevated, was +proportionably low, and, in general, not only heavily timbered, but +covered with reeds, and backed by a chain of ponds at the base of the +outer embankment. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +About 4 p.m., some natives were observed running by the river side +behind us, but on our turning the boat's head towards the shore, they +ran away. It was evident that they had no idea what we were, and, from +their timidity, feeling assured that it would be impossible to bring +them to a parley, we continued onwards till our usual hour of stopping, +when we pitched our tents on the left bank for the night, it being the +one opposite to that on which the natives had appeared. We conjectured +that their curiosity would lead them to follow us, which they very +shortly did; for we had scarcely made ourselves comfortable when we +heard their wild notes through the woods as they advanced towards the +river; and their breaking into view with their spears and shields, and +painted and prepared as they were for battle, was extremely fine. They +stood threatening us, and making a great noise, for a considerable +time, but, finding that we took no notice of them, they, at length, +became quiet. I then walked to some little distance from the party, and +taking a branch in my hand, as a sign of peace, beckoned them to swim +to our side of the river, which, after some time, two or three of them +did. But they approached me with great caution, hesitating at every +step. They soon, however, gained confidence, and were ultimately joined +by all the males of their tribe. I gave the FIRST who swam the river a +tomahawk (making this a rule in order to encourage them) with which he +was highly delighted. I shortly afterwards placed them all in a row and +fired a gun before them: they were quite unprepared for such an +explosion, and after standing stupified and motionless for a moment or +two, they simultaneously took to their heels, to our great amusement. I +succeeded, however, in calling them back, and they regained their +confidence so much, that sixteen of them remained with us all night, +but the greater number retired at sunset. +</P> + +<P> +On the following morning, they accompanied us down the river, where we +fell in with their tribe, who were stationed on an elevated bank a +short distance below—to the number of eighty-three men, women, and +children. Their appearance was extremely picturesque and singular. They +wanted us to land, but time was too precious for such delays. Some of +the boldest of the natives swam round and round the boat so as to +impede the use of the oars, and the women on the bank evinced their +astonishment by mingled yells and cries. They entreated us, by signs, +to remain with them, but, as I foresaw a compliance on this occasion +would hereafter be attended with inconvenience, I thought it better to +proceed on our journey, and the natives soon ceased their +importunities, and, indeed, did not follow or molest us. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER BANKS. +</H4> + +<P> +The river improved upon us at every mile. Its reaches were of noble +breadth, and splendid appearance. Its current was stronger, and it was +fed by numerous springs. Rocks, however, were more frequent in its bed, +and in two places almost formed a barrier across the channel, leaving +but a narrow space for the boats to go down. We passed several +elevations of from 70 to 90 feet in height, at the base of which the +stream swept along. The soil of these elevations was a mixture of clay +(marl) and sand, upon coarse sandstone. Their appearance and the manner +in which they had been acted upon by water, was singular, and afforded +a proof of the violence of the rains in this part of the interior. From +the highest of these, I observed that the country to the S.E. was +gently undulated, and so far changed in character from that through +which we had been travelling; still, however, it was covered with a low +scrub, and was barren and unpromising. +</P> + +<P> +About noon of the 18th, we surprised two women at the water-side, who +immediately retreated into the brush. Shortly after, four men showed +themselves, and followed us for a short distance, but hid themselves +upon our landing. The country still appeared undulated to the S.E.; the +soil was sandy, and cypresses more abundant than any other tree. We +passed several extensive sand-banks in the river, of unusual size and +solidity, an evident proof of the sandy nature of the interior +generally. The vast accumulations of sand at the junctions of every +creek were particularly remarkable. The timber on the alluvial flats +was not by any means so large as we had hitherto observed it; nor were +the flats themselves so extensive as they are on the Morumbidgee and +the Macquarie. Notwithstanding the aspect of the country which I have +described, no POSITIVE change had as yet taken place in the general +feature of the interior. The river continued to flow in a direction +somewhat to the northward of west, through a country that underwent no +perceptible alteration. Its waters, confined to their immediate bed, +swept along considerably below the level of its inner banks; and the +spaces between them and the outer ones, though generally covered with +reeds, seemed not recently to have been flooded; while on the other +hand, they had, in many places, from successive depositions, risen to a +height far above the reach of inundation. Still, however, the more +remote interior maintained its sandy and sterile character, and +stretched away, in alternate plain and wood, to a distance far beyond +the limits of our examination. +</P> + +<P> +About the 21st, a very evident change took place in it. The banks of +the river suddenly acquired a perpendicular and water-worn appearance. +Their summits were perfectly level, and no longer confined by a +secondary embankment, but preserved an uniform equality of surface back +from the stream. These banks, although so abrupt, were not so high as +the upper levels, or secondary embankments. They indicated a deep +alluvial deposit, and yet, being high above the reach of any ordinary +flood, were covered with grass, under an open box forest, into which a +moderately dense scrub occasionally penetrated. We had fallen into a +concavity similar to those of the marshes, but successive depositions +had almost filled it, and no longer subject to inundation, it had lost +all the character of those flooded tracts. The kind of country I have +been describing, lay rather to the right than to the left of the river +at this place, the latter continuing low and swampy, as if the country +to the south of the river were still subject to inundation. As the +expedition proceeded, the left bank gradually assumed the appearance of +the right; both looked water-worn and perpendicular, and though not +more than from nine to ten feet in height, their summits were perfectly +level in receding, and bore diminutive box-timber, with +widely-scattered vegetation. Not a single elevation had, as yet, broken +the dark and gloomy monotony of the interior; but as our observations +were limited to a short distance from the river, our surmises on the +nature of the distant country were necessarily involved in some +uncertainty. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +THREATENED ATTACK—AMICABLE CONFERENCE. +</H4> + +<P> +On the 19th, as we were about to conclude our journey for the day, we +saw a large body of natives before us. On approaching them, they showed +every disposition for combat, and ran along the bank with spears in +rests, as if only waiting for an opportunity to throw them at us. They +were upon the right, and as the river was broad enough to enable me to +steer wide of them, I did not care much for their threats; but upon +another party appearing upon the left bank, I thought it high time to +disperse one or the other of them, as the channel was not wide enough +to enable me to keep clear of danger, if assailed by both, as I might +be while keeping amid the channel. I found, however, that they did not +know how to use the advantage they possessed, as the two divisions +formed a junction; those on the left swimming over to the stronger body +upon the right bank. This, fortunately, prevented the necessity of any +hostile measure on my part, and we were suffered to proceed unmolested, +for the present. The whole then followed us without any symptom of +fear, but making a dreadful shouting, and beating their spears and +shields together, by way of intimidation. It is but justice to my men +to say that in this critical situation they evinced the greatest +coolness, though it was impossible for any one to witness such a scene +with indifference. As I did not intend to fatigue the men by continuing +to pull farther than we were in the habit of doing, we landed at our +usual time on the left bank, and while the people were pitching the +tents, I walked down the bank with M'Leay, to treat with these +desperadoes in the best way we could, across the water, a measure to +which my men showed great reluctance, declaring that if during our +absence the natives approached them, they would undoubtedly fire upon +them. I assured them it was not my intention to go out of their sight. +We took our guns with us, but determined not to use them until the last +extremity, both from a reluctance to shed blood and with a view to our +future security. I held a long pantomimical dialogue with them, across +the water, and held out the olive branch in token of amity. They at +length laid aside their spears, and a long consultation took place +among them, which ended in two or three wading into the river, +contrary, as it appeared, to the earnest remonstrances of the majority, +who, finding that their entreaties had no effect, wept aloud, and +followed them with a determination, I am sure, of sharing their fate, +whatever it might have been. As soon as they landed, M'Leay and I +retired to a little distance from the bank, and sat down; that being +the usual way among the natives of the interior, to invite to an +interview. When they saw us act thus, they approached, and sat down by +us, but without looking up, from a kind of diffidence peculiar to them, +and which exists even among the nearest relatives, as I have already +had occasion to observe. As they gained confidence, however, they +showed an excessive curiosity, and stared at us in the most earnest +manner. We now led them to the camp, and I gave, as was my custom, the +first who had approached, a tomahawk; and to the others, some pieces of +iron hoop. Those who had crossed the river amounted to about +thirty-five in number. At sunset, the majority of them left us; but +three old men remained at the fire-side all night. I observed that few +of them had either lost their front teeth or lacerated their bodies, as +the more westerly tribes do. The most loathsome diseases prevailed +among them. Several were disabled by leprosy, or some similar disorder, +and two or three had entirely lost their sight. They are, undoubtedly, +a brave and a confiding people, and are by no means wanting in natural +affection. In person, they resemble the mountain tribes. They had the +thick lip, the sunken eye, the extended nostril, and long beards, and +both smooth and curly hair are common among them. Their lower +extremities appear to bear no proportion to their bust in point of +muscular strength; but the facility with which they ascend trees of the +largest growth, and the activity with which they move upon all +occasions, together with their singularly erect stature, argue that +such appearance is entirely deceptive. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +The old men slept very soundly by the fire, and were the last to get up +in the morning. M'Leay's extreme good humour had made a most favourable +impression upon them, and I can picture him, even now, joining in their +wild song. Whether it was from his entering so readily into their +mirth, or from anything peculiar that struck them, the impression upon +the whole of us was, that they took him to have been originally a +black, in consequence of which they gave him the name of Rundi. Certain +it is, they pressed him to show his side, and asked if he had not +received a wound there—evidently as if the original Rundi had met with +a violent death from a spear-wound in that place. The whole tribe, +amounting in number to upwards of 150, assembled to see us take our +departure. Four of them accompanied us, among whom there was one +remarkable for personal strength and stature.—The 21st passed without +our falling in with any new tribe, and the night of the 22nd, saw us +still wandering in that lonely desert together. There was something +unusual in our going through such an extent of country without meeting +another tribe, but our companions appeared to be perfectly aware of the +absence of inhabitants, as they never left our side. +</P> + +<P> +Although the banks of the river had been of general equality of height, +sandy elevations still occasionally formed a part of them, and their +summits were considerably higher than the alluvial flats. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +RAPID IN THE RIVER—DANGEROUS DESCENT OF THE BOATS. +</H4> + +<P> +It was upon the crest of one of these steep and lofty banks, that on +the morning of the 22nd, the natives who were a-head of the boat, +suddenly stopped to watch our proceedings down a foaming rapid that ran +beneath. We were not aware of the danger to which we were approaching, +until we turned an angle of the river, and found ourselves too near to +retreat. In such a moment, without knowing what was before them, the +coolness of the men was strikingly exemplified. No one even spoke after +they became aware that silence was necessary. The natives (probably +anticipating misfortune) stood leaning upon their spears upon the lofty +bank above us. Desiring the men not to move from their seats, I stood +up to survey the channel, and to steer the boat to that part of it +which was least impeded by rocks. I was obliged to decide upon a hasty +survey, as we were already at the head of the rapid. It appeared to me +that there were two passages, the one down the centre of the river, the +other immediately under its right bank. A considerable rock stood +directly in own way to the latter, so that I had no alternative but to +descend the former. About forty yards below the rock, I noticed that a +line of rocks occupied the space between the two channels, whilst a +reef, projecting from the left bank, made the central passage +distinctly visible, and the rapidity of the current proportionably +great. I entertained hopes that the passage was clear, and that we +should shoot down it without interruption; but in this I was +disappointed. The boat struck with the fore-part of her keel on a +sunken rock, and, swinging round as it were on a pivot, presented her +bow to the rapid, while the skiff floated away into the strength of it. +We had every reason to anticipate the loss of our whale-boat, whose +build was so light, that had her side struck the rock, instead of her +keel, she would have been laid open from stem to stern. As it was, +however, she remained fixed in her position, and it only remained for +us to get her off the best way we could. I saw that this could only be +done by sending two of the men with a rope to the upper rock, and +getting the boat, by that means, into the still water, between that and +the lower one. We should then have time to examine the channels, and to +decide as to that down which it would be safest to proceed. My only +fear was, that the loss of the weight of the two men would lighten the +boat so much, that she would be precipitated down the rapid without my +having any command over her; but it happened otherwise. We succeeded in +getting her into the still water, and ultimately took her down the +channel under the right bank, without her sustaining any injury. A few +miles below this rapid the river took a singular bend, and we found, +after pulling several miles, that we were within a stone's throw of a +part of the stream we had already sailed down. +</P> + +<P> +The four natives joined us in the camp, and assisted the men at their +various occupations. The consequence was, that they were treated with +more than ordinary kindness; and Fraser, for his part, in order to +gratify these favoured guests, made great havoc among the feathered +race. He returned after a short ramble with a variety of game, among +which were a crow, a kite, and a laughing jackass (alcedo gigantea,) a +species of king's-fisher, a singular bird, found in every part of +Australia. Its cry, which resembles a chorus of wild spirits, is apt to +startle the traveller who may be in jeopardy, as if laughing and +mocking at his misfortune. It is a harmless bird, and I seldom allowed +them to be destroyed, as they were sure to rouse us with the earliest +dawn. To this list of Fraser's spoils, a duck and a tough old cockatoo, +must be added. The whole of these our friends threw on the fire without +the delay of plucking, and snatched them from that consuming element +ere they were well singed, and devoured them with uncommon relish. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DESERTED NATIVE VILLAGE. +</H4> + +<P> +We pitched our tents upon a flat of good and tenacious soil. A brush, +in which there was a new species of melaleuca, backed it, in the +thickest part of which we found a deserted native village. The spot was +evidently chosen for shelter. The huts were large and long, all facing +the same point of the compass, and in every way resembling the huts +occupied by the natives of the Darling. Large flocks of whistling +ducks, and other wild fowl, flew over our heads to the N.W., as if +making their way to some large or favourite waters. My observations +placed us in lat. 34 degrees 8 minutes 15 seconds south, and in east +long. 141 degrees 9 minutes 42 seconds or nearly so; and I was at a +loss to conceive what direction the river would ultimately take. We +were considerably to the N.W. of the point at which we had entered it, +and in referring to the chart, it appeared, that if the Darling had +kept a S.W. course from where the last expedition left its banks, we +ought ere this to have struck upon it, or have arrived at its junction +with the stream on which we were journeying. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CONVERSING BY SIGNS. +</H4> + +<P> +The natives, in attempting to answer my interrogatories, only perplexed +me more and more. They evidently wished to explain something, by +placing a number of sticks across each other as a kind of diagram of +the country. It was, however, impossible to arrive at their meaning. +They undoubtedly pointed to the westward, or rather to the south of +that point, as the future course of the river; but there was something +more that they were anxious to explain, which I could not comprehend. +The poor fellows seemed quite disappointed, and endeavoured to beat it +into Fraser's head with as little success. I then desired Macnamee to +get up into a tree. From the upper branches of it he said he could see +hills; but his account of their appearance was such that I doubted his +story: nevertheless it might have been correct. He certainly called our +attention to a large fire, as if the country to the N.W. was in flames, +so that it appeared we were approaching the haunts of the natives at +last. +</P> + +<P> +It happened that Fraser and Harris were for guard, and they sat up +laughing and talking with the natives long after we retired to rest. +Fraser, to beguile the hours, proposed shaving his sable companions, +and performed that operation with admirable dexterity upon their chief, +to his great delight. I got up at an early hour, and found to my +surprise that the whole of them had deserted us. Harris told me they +had risen from the fire about an hour before, and had crossed the +river. I was a little angry, but supposed they were aware that we were +near some tribe, and had gone on a-head to prepare and collect them. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +LARGE CONCOURSE OF NATIVES—THEIR HOSTILE DEMEANOUR. +</H4> + +<P> +After breakfast, we proceeded onwards as usual. The river had increased +so much in width that, the wind being fair, I hoisted sail for the +first time, to save the strength of my men as much as possible. Our +progress was consequently rapid. We passed through a country that, from +the nature of its soil and other circumstances, appeared to be +intersected by creeks and lagoons. Vast flights of wild fowl passed +over us, but always at a considerable elevation, while, on the other +hand, the paucity of ducks on the river excited our surprise. Latterly, +the trees upon the river, and in its neighbourhood, had been a tortuous +kind of box. The flooded-gum grew in groups on the spaces subject to +inundation, but not on the levels above the influence of any ordinary +rise of the stream. Still they were much smaller than they were +observed to be in the higher branches of the river. We had proceeded +about nine miles, when we were surprised by the appearance in view, at +the termination of a reach, of a long line of magnificent trees of +green and dense foliage. As we sailed down the reach, we observed a +vast concourse of natives under them, and, on a nearer approach, we not +only heard their war-song, if it might so be called, but remarked that +they were painted and armed, as they generally are, prior to their +engaging in deadly conflict. Notwithstanding these outward signs of +hostility, fancying that our four friends were with them, I continued +to steer directly in for the bank on which they were collected. I +found, however, when it was almost too late to turn into the succeeding +reach to our left, that an attempt to land would only be attended with +loss of life. The natives seemed determined to resist it. We approached +so near that they held their spears quivering in their grasp ready to +hurl. They were painted in various ways. Some who had marked their +ribs, and thighs, and faces with a white pigment, looked like +skeletons, others were daubed over with red and yellow ochre, and their +bodies shone with the grease with which they had besmeared themselves. +A dead silence prevailed among the front ranks, but those in the back +ground, as well as the women, who carried supplies of darts, and who +appeared to have had a bucket of whitewash capsized over their heads, +were extremely clamorous. As I did not wish a conflict with these +people, I lowered my sail, and putting the helm to starboard, we passed +quietly down the stream in mid channel. Disappointed in their +anticipations, the natives ran along the bank of the river, +endeavouring to secure an aim at us; but, unable to throw with +certainty, in consequence of the onward motion of the boat, they flung +themselves into the most extravagant attitudes, and worked themselves +into a state of frenzy by loud and vehement shouting. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +PREPARATIONS FOR CONFLICT—UNEXPECTED INTERFERENCE. +</H4> + +<P> +It was with considerable apprehension that I observed the river to be +shoaling fast, more especially as a huge sand-bank, a little below us, +and on the same side on which the natives had gathered, projected +nearly a third-way across the channel. To this sand-bank they ran with +tumultuous uproar, and covered it over in a dense mass. Some of the +chiefs advanced to the water to be nearer their victims, and turned +from time to time to direct their followers. With every pacific +disposition, and an extreme reluctance to take away life, I foresaw +that it would be impossible any longer to avoid an engagement, yet with +such fearful numbers against us, I was doubtful of the result. The +spectacle we had witnessed had been one of the most appalling kind, and +sufficient to shake the firmness of most men; but at that trying moment +my little band preserved their temper coolness, and if any thing could +be gleaned from their countenances, it was that they had determined on +an obstinate resistance. I now explained to them that their only chance +of escape depended, or would depend, on their firmness. I desired that +after the first volley had been fired, M'Leay and three of the men, +would attend to the defence of the boat with bayonets only, while I, +Hopkinson, and Harris, would keep up the fire as being more used to it. +I ordered, however, that no shot was to be fired until after I had +discharged both my barrels. I then delivered their arms to the men, +which had as yet been kept in the place appropriated for them, and at +the same time some rounds of loose cartridge. The men assured me they +would follow my instructions, and thus prepared, having already lowered +the sail, we drifted onwards with the current. As we neared the +sand-bank, I stood up and made signs to the natives to desist; but +without success. I took up my gun, therefore, and cocking it, had +already brought it down to a level. A few seconds more would have +closed the life of the nearest of the savages. The distance was too +trifling for me to doubt the fatal effects of the discharge; for I was +determined to take deadly aim, in hopes that the fall of one man might +save the lives of many. But at the very moment, when my hand was on the +trigger, and my eye was along the barrel, my purpose was checked by +M'Leay, who called to me that another party of blacks had made their +appearance upon the left bank of the river. Turning round, I observed +four men at the top of their speed. The foremost of them as soon as he +got a-head of the boat, threw himself from a considerable height into +the water. He struggled across the channel to the sand-bank, and in an +incredibly short space of time stood in front of the savage, against +whom my aim had been directed. Seizing him by the throat, he pushed +backwards, and forcing all who were in the water upon the bank, he trod +its margin with a vehemence and an agitation that were exceedingly +striking. At one moment pointing to the boat, at another shaking his +clenched hand in the faces of the most forward, and stamping with +passion on the sand; his voice, that was at first distinct and clear, +was lost in hoarse murmurs. Two of the four natives remained on the +left bank of the river, but the third followed his leader, (who proved +to be the remarkable savage I have previously noticed) to the scene of +action. The reader will imagine our feelings on this occasion: it is +impossible to describe them. We were so wholly lost in interest at the +scene that was passing, that the boat was allowed to drift at pleasure. +For my own part I was overwhelmed with astonishment, and in truth +stunned and confused; so singular, so unexpected, and so strikingly +providential, had been our escape. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +JUNCTION OF ANOTHER STREAM—PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE FROM DANGER. +</H4> + +<P> +We were again roused to action by the boat suddenly striking upon a +shoal, which reached from one side of the river to the other. To jump +out and push her into deeper water was but the work of a moment with +the men, and it was just as she floated again that our attention was +withdrawn to a new and beautiful stream, coming apparently from the +north. The great body of the natives having posted themselves on the +narrow tongue of land formed by the two rivers, the bold savage who had +so unhesitatingly interfered on our account, was still in hot dispute +with them, and I really feared his generous warmth would have brought +down upon him the vengeance of the tribes. I hesitated, therefore, +whether or not to go to his assistance. It appeared, however, both to +M'Leay and myself, that the tone of the natives had moderated, and the +old and young men having listened to the remonstrances of our friend, +the middle-aged warriors were alone holding out against him. A party of +about seventy blacks were upon the right bank of the newly discovered +river, and I thought that by landing among them, we should make a +diversion in favour of our late guest; and in this I succeeded. If even +they had still meditated violence, they would have to swim a good broad +junction, and that, probably, would cool them, or we at least should +have the advantage of position. I therefore, ran the boat ashore, and +landed with M'Leay amidst the smaller party of natives, wholly unarmed, +and having directed the men to keep at a little distance from the bank. +Fortunately, what I anticipated was brought about by the stratagem to +which I had had recourse. The blacks no sooner observed that we had +landed, than curiosity took place of anger. All wrangling ceased, and +they came swimming over to us like a parcel of seals. Thus, in less +than a quarter of an hour from the moment when it appeared that all +human intervention was at on end, and we were on the point of +commencing a bloody fray, which, independently of its own disastrous +consequences, would have blasted the success of the expedition, we were +peacefully surrounded by the hundreds who had so lately threatened us +with destruction; nor was it until after we had returned to the boat, +and had surveyed the multitude upon the sloping bank above us, that we +became fully aware of the extent of our danger, and of the almost +miraculous intervention of Providence in our favour. There could not +have been less than six hundred natives upon that blackened sward. But +this was not the only occasion upon which the merciful superintendance +of that Providence to which we had humbly committed ourselves, was +strikingly manifested. If these pages fail to convey entertainment or +information, sufficient may at least be gleaned from them to furnish +matter for serious reflection; but to those who have been placed in +situations of danger where human ingenuity availed them not, and where +human foresight was baffled, I feel persuaded that these remarks are +unnecessary. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +NEW RIVER, SUPPOSED TO BE THE DARLING. +</H4> + +<P> +It was my first care to call for our friend, and to express to him, as +well as I could, how much we stood indebted to him, at the same time +that I made him a suitable present; but to the chiefs of the tribes, I +positively refused all gifts, notwithstanding their earnest +solicitations. We next prepared to examine the new river, and turning +the boat's head towards it, endeavoured to pull up the stream. Our +larboard oars touched the right bank, and the current was too strong +for us to conquer it with a pair only; we were, therefore, obliged to +put a second upon her, a movement that excited the astonishment and +admiration of the natives. One old woman seemed in absolute ecstasy, to +whom M'Leay threw an old tin kettle, in recompense for the amusement +she afforded us. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +HOIST THE UNION JACK. +</H4> + +<P> +As soon as we got above the entrance of the new river, we found easier +pulling, and proceeded up it for some miles, accompanied by the once +more noisy multitude. The river preserved a breadth of one hundred +yards, and a depth of rather more than twelve feet. Its banks were +sloping and grassy, and were overhung by trees of magnificent size. +Indeed, its appearance was so different from the water-worn banks of +the sister stream, that the men exclaimed, on entering it, that we had +got into an English river. Its appearance certainly almost justified +the expression; for the greenness of its banks was as new to us as the +size of its timber. Its waters, though sweet, were turbid, and had a +taste of vegetable decay, as well as a slight tinge of green. Our +progress was watched by the natives with evident anxiety. They kept +abreast of us, and talked incessantly. At length, however, our course +was checked by a net that stretched right across the stream. I say +checked, because it would have been unfair to have passed over it with +the chance of disappointing the numbers who apparently depended on it +for subsistence that day. The moment was one of intense interest to me. +As the men rested upon their oars, awaiting my further orders, a crowd +of thoughts rushed upon me. The various conjectures I had formed of the +course and importance of the Darling passed across my mind. Were they +indeed realized? An irresistible conviction impressed me that we were +now sailing on the bosom of that very stream from whose banks I had +been twice forced to retire. I directed the Union Jack to be hoisted, +and giving way to our satisfaction, we all stood up in the boat, and +gave three distinct cheers. It was an English feeling, an ebullition, +an overflow, which I am ready to admit that our circumstances and +situation will alone excuse. The eye of every native had been fixed +upon that noble flag, at all times a beautiful object, and to them a +novel one, as it waved over us in the heart of a desert. They had, +until that moment been particularly loquacious, but the sight of that +flag and the sound of our voices hushed the tumult, and while they were +still lost in astonishment, the boat's head was speedily turned, the +sail was sheeted home, both wind and current were in our favour, and we +vanished from them with a rapidity that surprised even ourselves, and +which precluded every hope of the most adventurous among them to keep +up with us. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap05"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER V. +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Character of the country—Damage of provisions—Adroitness of the +natives in catching fish—The skiff broken up—Stream from the +North-East supposed to be the Darling—Change of country in descending +the river—Intercourse with the natives—Prevalence of loathsome +diseases among them—Apparent populousness of the country—Junction of +several small streams—The Rufus, the Lindesay, &c.—Rainy and +tempestuous weather—Curious appearance of the banks—Troublesomeness +of the natives—Inhospitable and desolate aspect of the +country—Condition of the men—Change in the geological character of +the country—The river passes through a valley among hills. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +Arrived once more at the junction of the two rivers, and unmolested in +our occupations, we had leisure to examine it more closely. Not having +as yet given a name to our first discovery, when we re-entered its +capacious channel on this occasion, I laid it down as the Murray River, +in compliment to the distinguished officer, Sir George Murray, who then +presided over the colonial department, not only in compliance with the +known wishes of his Excellency General Darling, but also in accordance +with my own feelings as a soldier. +</P> + +<P> +The new river, whether the Darling or an additional discovery, meets +its more southern rival on a N. by E. course; the latter, running +W.S.W. at the confluence, the angle formed by the two rivers, is, +therefore, so small that both may be considered to preserve their +proper course, and neither can be said to be tributary to the other. At +their junction, the Murray spreads its waters over the broad and sandy +shore, upon which our boat grounded, while its more impetuous neighbour +flows through the deep but narrow channel it has worked out for itself, +under the right bank. The strength of their currents must have been +nearly equal, since there was as distinct a line between their +respective waters, to a considerable distance below the junction, as if +a thin board alone separated them. The one half the channel contained +the turbid waters of the northern stream, the other still preserved +their original transparency. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +INUNDATED AND ALLUVIAL COUNTRY. +</H4> + +<P> +The banks of the Murray did not undergo any immediate change as we +proceeded. We noticed that the country had, at some time, been subject +to extensive inundation, and was, beyond doubt, of alluvial formation. +We passed the mouths of several large creeks that came from the north +and N.W., and the country in those directions seemed to be much +intersected by water-courses; while to the south it was extremely low. +Having descended several minor rapids, I greatly regretted that we had +no barometer to ascertain the actual dip of the interior. I computed, +however, that we were not more than from eighty to ninety feet above +the level of the sea. We found the channel of the Murray much +encumbered with timber, and noticed some banks of sand that were of +unusual size, and equalled the largest accumulations of it on the sea +shore, both in extent and solidity. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +STATE OF PROVISIONS. +</H4> + +<P> +We would gladly have fired into the flights of wild fowl that winged +their way over us, for we, about this time, began to feel the +consequences of the disaster that befell us in the Morumbidgee. The +fresh water having got mixed with the brine in the meat casks, the +greater part of our salt provisions had got spoiled, so that we were +obliged to be extremely economical in the expenditure of what remained, +as we knew not to what straits we might be driven. It will naturally be +asked why we did not procure fish? The answer is easy. The men had +caught many in the Morumbidgee, and on our first navigation of the +Murray, but whether it was that they had disagreed with them, or that +their appetites were palled, or that they were too fatigued after the +labour of the day to set the lines, they did not appear to care about +them. The only fish we could take was the common cod or perch; and, +without sauce or butter, it is insipid enough. We occasionally +exchanged pieces of iron-hoop for two other kinds of fish, the one a +bream, the other a barbel, with the natives, and the eagerness with +which they met our advances to barter, is a strong proof of their +natural disposition towards this first step in civilization. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DEXTERITY OF NATIVES IN FISHING. +</H4> + +<P> +As they threw off all reserve when accompanying us as ambassadors, we +had frequent opportunities of observing their habits. The facility, for +instance, with which they procured fish was really surprising. They +would slip, feet foremost, into the water as they walked along the bank +of the river, as if they had accidentally done so, but, in reality, to +avoid the splash they would necessarily have made if they had plunged +in head foremost. As surely as they then disappeared under the surface +of the water, so surely would they re-appear with a fish writhing upon +the point of their short spears. The very otter scarcely exceeds them +in power over the finny race, and so true is the aim of these savages, +even under water, that all the fish we procured from them were pierced +either close behind the lateral fin, or in the very centre of the head, +It is certain, from their indifference to them, that the natives seldom +eat fish when they can get anything else. Indeed, they seemed more +anxious to take the small turtle, which, sunning themselves on the +trunks or logs of trees over the water, were, nevertheless, extremely +on their guard. A gentle splash alone indicated to us that any thing +had dropped into the water, but the quick eyes and ears of our guides +immediately detected what had occasioned it, and they seldom failed to +take the poor little animal that had so vainly trusted to its own +watchfulness for security. It appeared that the natives did not, from +choice, frequent the Murray; it was evident, therefore, that they had +other and better means of subsistence away from it, and it struck me, +at the time, that the river we had just passed watered a better country +than any through which the Murray had been found to flow. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +BREAK UP THE SKIFF. +</H4> + +<P> +We encamped rather earlier than usual upon the left bank of the river, +near a broad creek; for as the skiff had been a great drag upon us, I +determined on breaking it up, since there was no probability that we +should ever require the still, which alone remained in her. We, +consequently, burnt the former, to secure her nails and iron work, and +I set Clayton about cutting the copper of the latter into the shape of +crescents, in order to present them to the natives. Some large huts +were observed on the side of the creek, a little above the camp, the +whole of which faced the N.E. This arrangement had previously been +noticed by us, so that I was led to infer that the severest weather +comes from the opposite quarter in this part of the interior. I had not +the least idea, at the time, however, that we should, ere we reached +the termination of our journey, experience the effects of the S.W. +winds. +</P> + +<P> +We must have fallen considerably during the day from the level of our +morning's position, for we passed down many reaches where the decline +of country gave an increased velocity to the current of the river. +</P> + +<P> +I had feared, not only in consequence of the unceremonious manner in +which we had left them, but, because I had, in some measure, rejected +the advances of their chiefs, that none of the natives would follow us, +and I regretted the circumstance on account of my men, as well as the +trouble we should necessarily have in conciliating the next tribe. We +had not, however, been long encamped, when seven blacks joined us. I +think they would have passed on if we had not called to them. As it +was, they remained with us but for a short time. We treated them very +kindly, but they were evidently under constraint, and were, no doubt, +glad when they found we did not object to their departing. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +NEW RIVER IDENTIFIED WITH THE DARLING. +</H4> + +<P> +I have stated, that I felt satisfied in my own mind, that the beautiful +stream we had passed was no other than the river Darling of my former +journey. The bare assertion, however, is not sufficient to satisfy the +mind of the reader, upon a point of such importance, more especially +when it is considered how remarkable a change the Darling must have +undergone, if this were indeed a continuation of it. I am free to +confess that it required an effort to convince myself, but after due +consideration, I see no reason to alter the opinion I formed at a +moment of peculiar embarrassment. Yet it by no means follows that I +shall convince others, although I am myself convinced. The question is +one of curious speculation, and the consideration of it will lead us to +an interesting conjecture, as to the probable nature of the distant +interior, between the two points. It will be remembered that I was +obliged to relinquish my pursuit of the Darling, in east long. 144 +degrees 48 minutes 30 seconds in lat. 30 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds +south. I place the junction of the Murray and the new river, in long. +140 degrees 56 minutes east, and in south lat. 34 degrees 3 minutes. I +must remark, however, that the lunars I took on this last occasion, +were not satisfactory, and that there is, probably, an error, though +not a material one, in the calculation. Before I measure the distance +between the above points, or make any remarks on the results of my own +observations, I would impress the following facts upon the reader's +mind. +</P> + +<P> +I found and left the Darling in a complete state of exhaustion. As a +river it had ceased to flow; the only supply it received was from brine +springs, which, without imparting a current, rendered its waters saline +and useless, and lastly, the fish in it were different from those +inhabiting the other known rivers of the interior. It is true, I did +not procure a perfect specimen of one, but we satisfactorily +ascertained that they were different, inasmuch as they had large and +strong scales, whereas the fish in the western waters have smooth +skins. On the other hand, the waters of the new river were sweet, +although turbid; it had a rapid current in it; and its fish were of the +ordinary kind. In the above particulars, therefore, they differed much +as they could well differ. Yet there were some strong points of +resemblance in the appearance of the rivers themselves, which were more +evident to me than I can hope to make them to the reader. Both were +shaded by trees of the same magnificent dimensions; and the same kind +of huts were erected on the banks of each, inhabited by the same +description, or race, of people, whose weapons, whose implements, and +whose nets corresponded in most respects. +</P> + +<P> +We will now cast our eyes over the chart: and see if the position of +the two rivers upon it, will at all bear out our conclusion that they +are one and the same; and whether the line that would join them is the +one that the Darling would naturally take, in reference to its previous +course.—We shall find that the two points under discussion, bear +almost N.E. and S.W. of each other respectively, the direct line in +which the Darling had been ascertained to flow, as far as it had been +found practicable to trace it. I have already remarked that the +fracture of my barometer prevented my ascertaining the height of the +bed of the Darling above the sea, during the first expedition. A +similar accident caused me equal disappointment on the second; because +one of the most important points upon which I was engaged was to +ascertain the dip of the interior. I believe I stated, in its proper +place, that I did not think the Darling could possibly be 200 feet +above the sea, and as far as my observations bear me out, I should +estimate the bed of the Murray, at its junction with the new river, to +be within 100. It would appear that there is a distance of 300 miles +between the Murray River at this place, and the Darling; a space amply +sufficient for the intervention of a hilly country. No one could have +been more attentive to the features of the interior than I was; nor +could any one have dwelt upon their peculiarities with more earnest +attention. It were hazardous to build up any new theory, however +ingenious it may appear. The conclusions into which I have been led, +are founded on actual observation of the country through which I +passed, and extend not beyond my actual range of vision; unless my +assuming that the decline of the interior to the south has been +satisfactorily established, be considered premature. If not, the +features of the country certainly justify my deductions; and it will be +found that they were still more confirmed by subsequent +observation.—That the Darling should have lost its current in its +upper branches, is not surprising, when the level nature of the country +into which it falls is taken into consideration; neither does it +surprise me that it should be stationary in one place, and flowing in +another; since, if, as in the present instance, there is a great extent +of country between the two points, which may perhaps be of considerable +elevation, the river may receive tributaries, whose waters will of +course follow the general decline of the country. I take it to be so in +the case before us; and am of opinion, that the lower branches of the +Darling are not at all dependent on its sources for a current, or for a +supply of water. I have somewhere observed that it appeared to me the +depressed interior over which I had already travelled, was of +comparatively recent formation. And, by whatever convulsion or change +so extensive a tract became exposed, I cannot but infer, that the +Darling is the main channel by which the last waters of the ocean were +drained off. The bottom of the estuary, for it cannot be called a +valley, being then left exposed, it consequently remains the natural +and proper reservoir for the streams from the eastward, or those +falling easterly from the westward, if any such remain to be discovered. +</P> + +<P> +From the junction of the Morumbidgee to the junction of the new river, +the Murray had held a W.N.W. course. From the last junction it changed +its direction to the S.W., and increased considerably in size. The +country to the south was certainly lower than that to the north; for, +although both banks had features common to each other, the flooded +spaces were much more extensive to our left than to our right. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CHANGE OF COUNTRY. +</H4> + +<P> +We started on the morning of the 24th, all the lighter from having got +rid of the skiff, and certainly freer to act in case the natives should +evince a hostile disposition towards us. As we proceeded down the +river, the appearances around us more and more plainly indicated a +change of country. Cypresses were observed in the distance, and the +ground on which they stood was higher than that near the stream; as if +it had again acquired its secondary banks. At length these heights +approached the river so nearly as to form a part of its banks, and to +separate one alluvial flat from another. Their summits were perfectly +level; their soil was a red sandy loam; and their productions, for the +most part, salsolae and misembrianthemum. From this it would appear +that we had passed through a second region, that must at some time have +been under water, and that still retained all the marks of a country +partially subject to flood. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +INTRODUCED FROM TRIBE TO TRIBE. +</H4> + +<P> +We had, as I have said, passed over this region, and were again hemmed +in by those sandy and sterile tracts upon which the beasts of the field +could obtain neither food nor water. We overtook the seven deputies +some time after we started, but soon lost sight of them again, as they +cut off the sweeps of the river, and shortened their journey as much as +possible. At 2 p.m. we found them with a tribe of their countrymen, +about eighty in number. We pulled in to the bank and remained with them +for a short time, and I now determined to convince the blacks who had +preceded us, that I had not been actuated by any other desire than that +of showing to them that we were not to be intimidated by numbers, when +I refused to make them any presents after their show of hostility. I +now, therefore, gave them several implements, sundry pieces of iron +hoop, and an ornamental badge of copper. When we left the tribe, we +were regularly handed over to their care. The seven men who had +introduced us, went back at the same time that we continued our +journey, and two more belonging to the new tribe, went on a-head to +prepare the the neighbouring tribe to receive us; nor did we see +anything more of them during the day. +</P> + +<P> +We encamped on the left bank of the river, amidst a polygonum scrub, in +which we found a number of the crested pigeon. It was late before the +tents were pitched: as Fraser seldom assisted in that operation, but +strolled out with his gun after he had kindled a fire, so on this +occasion he wandered from the camp in search of novelty, and on his +return, informed me that there was a considerable ridge to the south of +a plain upon which he had been. +</P> + +<P> +I had myself walked out to the S.E., and on ascending a few feet above +the level of the camp, got into a scrub. I was walking quietly through +it, when I heard a rustling noise, and looking in the direction whence +it proceeded, I observed a small kangaroo approaching me. Having a +stick in my hand, and being aware that I was in one of their paths, I +stood still until the animal came close up to me, without apparently +being aware of my presence. I then gave it a blow an the side of the +head, and made it reel to one side, but the stick, being rotten, broke +with the force of the blow, and thus disappointed me of a good meal. +</P> + +<P> +During my absence from the camp, a flight of cockatoos, new to us, but +similar to one that Mr. Hume shot on the Darling, passed over the +tents, and I found M'Leay, with his usual anxiety, trying to get a shot +at them. They had, he told me, descended to water, but they had chosen +a spot so difficult of approach without discovery, that he had found it +impossible to get within shot of them. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +RIDGE TO THE SOUTH-EAST. +</H4> + +<P> +There was a considerable rapid just below our position, which I +examined before dark. Not seeing any danger, I requested M'Leay to +proceed down it in the boat as soon as he had breakfasted, and to wait +for me at the bottom of it. As I wished to ascertain the nature and +height of the elevations which Fraser had magnified into something +grand, Fraser and I proceeded to the centre of a large plain, +stretching from the left bank of the river to the southward. It was +bounded to the S.E. by a low scrub; to the S. a thickly wooded ridge +appeared to break the level of the country. It extended from east to +west for four or five miles, and then gradually declined. At its +termination, the country seemed to dip, and a dense fog, as from an +extensive sheet of water, enveloped the landscape. The plain was +crowded with cockatoos, that were making their morning's repast on the +berries of the salsolae and rhagodia, with which it was covered. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DISTANT RANGES SEEN. +</H4> + +<P> +M'Leay had got safely down the rapid, so that as soon as I joined him, +we proceeded on our journey. We fell in with the tribe we had already +seen, but increased in numbers, and we had hardly left them, when we +found another tribe most anxiously awaiting our arrival. We stayed with +the last for some time, and exhausted our vocabulary, and exerted our +ingenuity to gain some information from them. I directed Hopkinson to +pile up some clay, to enquire if we were near any hills, when two or +three of the blacks caught the meaning, and pointed to the N.W. +Mulholland climbed up a tree in consequence of this, and reported to me +that he saw lofty ranges in the direction to which the blacks pointed; +that there were two apparently, the one stretching to the N.E., the +other to the N.W. He stated their distance to be about forty miles, and +added that he thought he could observe other ranges, through the gap, +which, according to the alignment of two sticks, that I placed +according to Mulholland's directions, bore S. 130 W. +</P> + +<P> +We had landed upon the right bank of the river, and there was a large +lagoon immediately behind us. The current in the river did not run so +strong as it had been. Its banks were much lower, and were generally +covered with reeds. The spaces subject to flood were broader than +heretofore, and the country for more than twenty miles was extremely +depressed. Our view from the highest ground near the camp was very +confined, since we were apparently in a hollow, and were unable to +obtain a second sight of the ranges we had noticed. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +PASS THREE CREEKS. +</H4> + +<P> +Three creeks fell into the Murray hereabouts. One from the north, +another from the N.E., and the third from the south. The two first were +almost choked up with the trunks of trees, but the last had a clear +channel. Our tents stood on ground high above the reach of flood. The +soil was excellent, and the brushes behind us abounded with a new +species of melaleuca. +</P> + +<P> +The heat of the weather, at this time, was extremely oppressive, and +the thermometer was seldom under 100 degrees of Fahr. at noon. The +wind, too, we observed, seldom remained stationary for any length of +time, but made its regular changes every twenty-four hours. In the +morning, it invariably blew from the N.E., at noon it shifted to N.W., +and as the sun set it flew round to the eastward of south. A few dense +clouds passed over us occasionally, but no rain fell from them. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DISEASES OF THE NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +Our intercourse with the natives had now been constant. We had found +the interior more populous than we had any reason to expect; yet as we +advanced into it, the population appeared to increase. It was +impossible for us to judge of the disposition of the natives during the +short interviews we generally had with them, and our motions were so +rapid that we did not give them time to form any concerted plan of +attack, had they been inclined to attack us. They did not, however, +show any disposition to hostility, but, considering all things, were +quiet and orderly, nor did any instances of theft occur, or, at least, +none fell under my notice. The most loathsome of diseases prevailed +throughout the tribes, nor were the youngest infants exempt from them. +Indeed, so young were some, whose condition was truly disgusting, that +I cannot but suppose they must have been born in a state of disease; +but I am uncertain whether it is fatal or not in its results, though, +most probably it hurries many to a premature grave. How these diseases +originated it is impossible to say. Certainly not from the colony, +since the midland tribes alone were infected. Syphilis raged amongst +them with fearful violence; many had lost their noses, and all the +glandular parts were considerably affected. I distributed some Turner's +cerate to the women, but left Fraser to superintend its application. It +could do no good, of course, but it convinced the natives we intended +well towards them, and, on that account, it was politic to give it, +setting aside any humane feeling. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +POPULOUS DISTRICT. +</H4> + +<P> +The country through which we passed on the 28th, was extremely low, +full of lagoons, and thickly inhabited. No change took place in the +river, or in the nature and construction of its banks. We succeeded in +getting a view of the hills we had noticed when with the last tribe, +and found that they bore from us due north, N. 22 E., and S. 130 W. +They looked bare and perpendicular, and appeared to be about twenty +miles from us. I am very uncertain as to the character of these hills, +but still think that they must have been some of the faces of the bold +cliffs that we had frequently passed under. From the size and number of +the huts, and from the great breadth of the foot-paths, we were still +further led to conclude that we were passing through a very populous +district. What the actual number of inhabitants was it is impossible to +say, but we seldom communicated with fewer than 200 daily. They sent +ambassadors forward regularly from one tribe to another, in order to +prepare for our approach, a custom that not only saved us an infinity +of time, but also great personal risk. Indeed, I doubt very much +whether we should ever have pushed so far down the river, had we not +been assisted by the natives themselves. I was particularly careful not +to do anything that would alarm them, or to permit any liberty to be +taken with their women. Our reserve in this respect seemed to excite +their surprise, for they asked sundry questions, by signs and +expressions, as to whether we had any women, and where they were. The +whole tribe generally assembled to receive us, and all, without +exception, were in a complete state of nudity, and really the loathsome +condition and hideous countenances of the women would, I should +imagine, have been a complete antidote to the sexual passion. It is to +be observed, that the women are very inferior in appearance to the men. +The latter are, generally speaking, a clean-limbed and powerful race, +much stouter in the bust than below, but withal, active, and, in some +respects, intelligent; but the women are poor, weak, and emaciated. +This, perhaps, is owing to their poverty and paucity of food, and to +the treatment they receive at the hands of the men; but the latter did +not show any unkindness towards them in our presence. +</P> + +<P> +Although I desired to avoid exciting their alarm, I still made a point +of showing them the effects of a gunshot, by firing at a kite, or any +other bird that happened to be near. My dexterity—for I did not trust +Fraser, who would, ten to one, have missed his mark—was generally +exerted, as I have said, against a kite or a crow; both of which birds +generally accompanied the blacks from place to place to pick up the +remnants of their meals. Yet, I was often surprised at the apparent +indifference with which the natives not only saw the effect of the +shot, but heard the report. I have purposely gone into the centre of a +large assemblage and fired at a bird that has fallen upon their very +heads, without causing a start or an exclamation, without exciting +either their alarm or their curiosity. +</P> + +<P> +Whence this callous feeling proceeded, whether from strength of nerve, +or because they had been informed by our forerunners that we should +show off before them, I know not, but I certainly expected a very +different effect from that which my firing generally produced, although +I occasionally succeeded in scattering them pretty well. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +JUNCTION OF THE RUFUS. +</H4> + +<P> +About 11 a.m., we arrived at the junction of a small river with the +Murray, at which a tribe, about 250 in number, had assembled to greet +us. We landed, therefore, for the double purpose of distributing +presents, and of examining the junction, which, coming from the north, +of course, fell into the Murray upon its right bank. Its waters were so +extremely muddy, and its current so rapid, that it must have been +swollen by some late rains. Perhaps, it had its sources in the hills we +had seen; be that as it may, it completely discoloured the waters of +the Murray. +</P> + +<P> +We made it a point never to distribute any presents among the natives +until we had made them all sit, or stand, in a row. Sometimes this was +a troublesome task, but we generally succeeded in gaining our point; +with a little exertion of patience. M'Leay was a famous hand at +ordering the ranks, and would, I am sure, have made a capital +drill-sergeant, not less on account of his temper than of his +perseverance. I called the little tributary I have noticed, the Rufus, +in honour of my friend M'Leay's red head, and I have no doubt, he will +understand the feeling that induced me to give it such a name. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATION. +</H4> + +<P> +Not many miles below the Rufus, we passed under a lofty cliff upon the +same side with it. It is the first elevation of any consequence that +occurs below the Darling, and not only on that account, but also on +account of the numerous substances of which it is composed, and the +singular formation that is near requires to be particularly noticed. +[See Appendix.] The examination was a task of considerable danger, and +both Fraser and myself had well nigh been buried under a mass of the +cliff that became suddenly detached, and, breaking into thousands of +pieces, went hissing and cracking into the river. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +THUNDER STORMS. +</H4> + +<P> +The weather about this time was extremely oppressive and close. Thunder +clouds darkened the sky, but no rain fell. The thermometer was seldom +below 104 at noon, and its range was very trifling. The wind shifted +several times during the twenty-four hours; but these changes had no +effect on the thermometer. It was evident, however, as the sun set on +the evening of the 26th, that the clouds from which thunder had for the +last four or five days disturbed the silence of nature around us, would +not long support their own weight. A little before midnight, it +commenced raining, and both wind and rain continued to increase in +violence until about seven in the morning of the 27th; when the weather +moderated. +</P> + +<P> +Two or three blacks had accompanied us from the last tribe, and had +lain down near the fire. As the storm increased, however, they got up, +and swimming across the river, left us to ourselves. This was a very +unusual thing, nor can I satisfy myself as to their object, unless it +was to get into shelter, for these people though they wander naked over +the country, and are daily in the water, feel the cold and rain very +acutely. +</P> + +<P> +Observing the clouds collecting for so many days, I indulged hopes that +we were near high lands, perhaps mountains; but from the loftiest spots +we could see nothing but a level and dark horizon. Anxious to gain as +correct a knowledge of the country as possible we had, in the course of +the day, ascended a sandy ridge that was about a mile from the river. +The view from the summit of this ridge promised to be more extensive +than any we had of late been enabled to obtain; and as far as actual +observation went, we were not disappointed, although in every other +particular, the landscape was one of the most unpromising description. +To the S. and S.E., the country might be said to stretch away in one +unbroken plain, for it was so generally covered with wood that every +inequality was hidden from our observation. To the S.W. the river line +was marked out by a succession of red cliffs, similar to those we had +already passed. To the north, the interior was evidently depressed; it +was overgrown with a low scrub, and seemed to be barren in the extreme. +The elevations upon which we stood were similar to the sand-hills near +the coast, and had not a blade of grass upon them. Yet, notwithstanding +the sterility of the soil, the large white amarillis which grew in such +profusion on the alluvial plains of the Macquarie, was also abundant +here. But it had lost its dazzling whiteness, and had assumed a sickly +yellow colour and its very appearance indicated that it was not in a +congenial soil. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +LINDESAY RIVER. +</H4> + +<P> +We passed two very considerable junctions, the one coming from the +S.E., the other from the north. Both had currents in them, but the +former was running much stronger than the latter. It falls into the +Murray, almost opposite to the elevations I have been describing, and, +if a judgment can be hazarded from its appearance at its embouchure, it +must, in its higher branches, be a stream of considerable magnitude. +Under this impression, I have called it the Lindesay, as a tribute of +respect to my commanding officer, Colonel Patrick Lindesay of the 39th +regt. I place it in east long. 140 degrees 29 minutes, and in lat. 33 +degrees 58 minutes south. Mr. Hume is of opinion that this is the most +southerly of the rivers crossed by him and Mr. Hovel in 1823; but, as I +have already remarked, I apprehend that all the rivers those gentlemen +crossed, had united in one main stream above the junction of the +Morumbidgee, and I think it much more probable that this is a new +river, and that it rises to the westward of Port Phillips, rather than +in the S.E. angle of the coast. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +NATIVES BECOME TROUBLESOME. +</H4> + +<P> +We found the blacks who had deserted us with a tribe at the junction, +but it was weak in point of numbers; as were also two other tribes or +hordes to whom we were introduced in rapid succession. Taken +collectively, they could not have amounted to 230 men, women, and +children. The last of these hordes was exceedingly troublesome, and I +really thought we should have been obliged to quarrel with them. +Whether it was that we were getting impatient, or that our tempers were +soured, I know not, but even M'Leay, whose partiality towards the +natives was excessive at the commencement of our journey, now became +weary of such constant communication as we had kept up with them. Their +sameness of appearance, the disgusting diseases that raged among them, +their abominable filth, the manner in which they pulled us about, and +the impossibility of making them understand us, or of obtaining any +information from them,—for if we could have succeeded in this point, +we should have gladly borne every inconvenience,—all combined to +estrange us from these people and to make their presence disagreeable. +Yet there was an absolute necessity to keep up the chain of +communication, to ensure our own safety, setting aside every other +consideration; but as I had been fortunate in my intercourse with the +natives during the first expedition, so I hoped the present journey +would terminate without the occurrence of any fatal collision between +us. The natives, it is true, were generally quiet; but they crowded +round us frequently without any regard to our remonstrances, laying +hold of the boat to prevent our going away, and I sometimes thought +that had any of them been sufficiently bold to set the example, many of +the tribes would have attempted our capture. Indeed, in several +instances, we were obliged to resort to blows ere we could disengage +ourselves from the crowds around us, and whenever this occurred, it +called forth the most sullen and ferocious scowl—such, probably, as +would be the forerunner of hostility, and would preclude every hope of +mercy at their hands. With each new tribe we were, in some measure, +obliged to submit to an examination, and to be pulled about, and +fingered all over. They generally measured our hands and feet with +their own, counted our fingers, felt our faces, and besmeared our +shirts all over with grease and dirt. This was no very agreeable +ceremony, and a repetition of it was quite revolting, more especially +when we had to meet the grins or frowns of the many with firmness and +composure. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +TEMPESTUOUS WEATHER. +</H4> + +<P> +The weather had been tempestuous and rainy, for three or four +successive days: on the 28th it cleared up a little. Under any +circumstances, however, we could not have delayed our journey. We had +not proceeded very far when it again commenced to rain and to blow +heavily from the N.W. The river trended to the South. We passed down +several rapids, and observed the marks of recent flood on the trees, to +the height of seven feet. The alluvial flats did not appear to have +been covered, or to be subject to overflow. The timber upon them was +not of a kind that is found on flooded lands, but wherever reeds +prevailed the flooded or blue gum stretched its long white branches +over them. The country to the westward was low and bushy. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +SINGULAR FORMATION OF THE BANKS. +</H4> + +<P> +The left bank of the Murray was extremely lofty, and occasionally rose +to 100 feet perpendicularly from the water. It is really difficult to +describe the appearance of the banks at this place; so singular were +they in character, and so varied in form. Here they had the most +beautiful columnar regularity, with capitals somewhat resembling the +Corinthian order in configuration; there they showed like falls of +muddy water that had suddenly been petrified; and in another place they +resembled the time-worn battlements of a feudal castle. It will +naturally be asked, of what could these cliffs have been composed to +assume so many different forms? and what could have operated to produce +such unusual appearances? The truth is, they were composed almost +wholly of clay and sand. Wherever the latter had accumulated, or +predominated, the gradual working of water had washed it away, and left +the more compact body, in some places, so delicately hollowed out, that +it seemed rather the work of art than of nature. This singular +formation rested on a coarse grit, that showed itself in slabs. +</P> + +<P> +From the frequent occurrence of rapids I should imagine that we had +fallen considerably, but there was no visible decline of country. The +river swept along, in broad and noble reaches, at the base of the +cliffs. Vast accumulations of sand were in its bed, a satisfactory +proof of the sandy character of the distant interior, if other proof +were wanting. +</P> + +<P> +We did not see so many natives on the 28th as we had been in the habit +of seeing; perhaps in consequence of the boisterous weather. A small +tribe of about sixty had collected to receive us, but we passed on +without taking any notice of them, Nevertheless they deputed two of +their men to follow us, who overtook us just as we stopped for the +purpose of pitching our tents before the clouds should burst, that just +then bore the most threatening appearance. The blacks seemed to be +perfectly aware what kind of a night we should have, and busied +themselves preparing a hut and making a large fire. +</P> + +<P> +The evening proved extremely dark, and towards midnight it blew and +rained fiercely. Towards morning the wind moderated, and the rain +ceased. Still, the sky was overcast, and the clouds were passing +rapidly over us. The wind had, however, changed some points, and from +the N.W. had veered round to the S.S.W.; and the day eventually turned +out cool and pleasant. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +LARGE TRIBE OF NATIVES—THEIR INDIFFERENCE TO FIRE-ARMS. +</H4> + +<P> +We fell in with a large tribe of natives, amounting in all to 270. They +were extremely quiet, and kept away from the boat; in consequence of +which I distributed a great many presents among them. This tribe was +almost the only one that evinced any eagerness to see us. The lame had +managed to hobble along, and the blind were equally anxious to touch +us. There were two or three old men stretched upon the bank, from whom +the last sigh seemed about to depart; yet these poor creatures evinced +an anxiety to see us, and to listen to a description of our appearance, +although it seemed doubtful whether they would be alive twenty-four +hours after we left them. An old woman, a picture of whom would disgust +my readers, made several attempts to embrace me. I managed, however, to +avoid her, and at length got rid of her by handing her over to Fraser, +who was no wise particular as to the object of his attention. This +tribe must have been one of the most numerous on the banks of the +Murray, since we fell in with detached families for many miles below +the place where we had parted from the main body. +</P> + +<P> +I have omitted to mention that, while among them, I fired at a kite and +killed it; yet, though close to me, the blacks did not start or evince +the least surprise. It really is difficult to account for such firmness +of nerve or self-command. It is not so much a matter of surprise that +they were indifferent to its effects, for probably they knew them not, +but it is certainly odd that they should not have been startled by the +report. +</P> + +<P> +The river inclined very much to the southward for some miles below our +last camp; at length it struck against some elevations that turned it +more to the westward. Before we terminated our day's pull it again +changed its direction to the eastward of south. The right bank became +lofty, and the left proportionably depressed. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +REFLECTIONS ON THE PROGRESS OF THE EXPEDITION. +</H4> + +<P> +In consequence of the boisterous weather we had had, we were uncertain +as to our precise situation, even in point of latitude. But I was +perfectly aware that we were considerably to the south of the head of +St. Vincent's Gulf. I began, therefore, to contemplate with some +confidence a speedy termination to our wanderings, or, at least, that +we should soon reach the extreme point to which we could advance. The +sun was at this time out of my reach, since the sextant would not +measure double the altitude. Observations of the stars were, in like +manner, uncertain, in consequence of the boisterous weather we had had, +and the unavoidable agitation of the quicksilver. My last observation +of Antares placed us in latitude 34 degrees 4 minutes; so that we were +still 115 miles from the coast. +</P> + +<P> +We had now been twenty-two days upon the river, and it was uncertain +how long we should be in compassing the distance we had still to run. +Considering all things, we had, as yet, been extremely fortunate; and I +hoped that we should terminate our journey without the occurrence of +any fatal accident. Had the country corresponded with the noble stream +that traversed it, we should have been proportionably elated, but it +was impossible to conceal from ourselves its inhospitable and +unprofitable character, as far as we had, as yet, penetrated. If we +except the partial and alluvial flats on the immediate borders, and in +the neighbourhood of its tributaries and creeks, the Murray might be +said to flow through a barren and sandy interior. The appearance of the +country through which we passed on the 29th, was far from being such as +to encourage us with the hopes of any change for the better. The river +was enclosed, on either side, by the same kind of banks that have +already been described; and it almost appeared as if the plain had been +rent asunder to allow of a passage for its waters. The view of the +distant interior was unsatisfactory. It was, for the most part, covered +with brush, but, at length, cypresses again made their appearance, +although at a considerable distance from us. +</P> + +<P> +The river continued to flow to the southward, a circumstance that gave +me much satisfaction, for I now began to feel some anxiety about the +men. They had borne their fatigues and trials so cheerfully, and had +behaved so well, that I could not but regret the scanty provision that +remained for them. The salt meat being spoiled, it had fallen to the +share of the dogs, so that we had little else than flour to eat. Fish +no one would touch, and of wild fowl there were none to be seen. The +men complained of sore eyes, from the perspiration constantly running +into them, and it was obvious to me that they were much reduced. It +will be borne in mind, that we were now performing the earliest part of +our task, and were going down with the stream. I was sure that on our +return, (For I had no hopes of meeting any vessel on the coast,) we +should have to make every day's journey good against the current; and, +if the men were now beginning to sink, it might well be doubted whether +their strength would hold out. Both M'Leay and myself, therefore, +encouraged any cheerfulness that occasionally broke out among them, and +Frazer enlivened them by sundry tunes that he whistled whilst employed +in skinning birds. I am sure, no galley-slave ever took to his oar with +more reluctance than poor Frazer. He was indefatigable in most things, +but he could not endure the oar. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +NATIVES BECOME UNRULY. +</H4> + +<P> +We did not fall in with any natives on the 30th, neither did we see +those who had preceded us from the last tribe. On the 31st, to my +mortification, the river held so much to the northward, that we undid +almost all our southing. What with its regular turns, and its extensive +sweeps, the Murray covers treble the ground, at a moderate computation, +that it would occupy in a direct course; and we had a practical +instance of the truth of this in the course of the afternoon, when we +found our friends ready to introduce us to a large assemblage of +natives. On asking them how they had passed us, they pointed directly +east to the spot at which we had parted. By crossing from one angle of +the river to the other, they had performed in little more than half a +day, a journey which it had taken us two long days to accomplish. After +our usual distribution of presents, we pushed away from the bank; +though not without some difficulty, in consequence of the obstinacy of +the natives in wishing to detain us; and I was exceedingly vexed to +find, while we were yet in sight of them, that we had proceeded down a +shallow channel on one side of an island instead of the further and +deeper one; so that the boat ultimately grounded. A crowd of the blacks +rushed into the water, and surrounded us on every side. Some came to +assist us, others, under a pretence of assisting, pulled against us, +and I was at length obliged to repel them by threats. A good many of +them were very much disposed to annoy us, and, after the boat was in +deep water, some of them became quite infuriated, because we would not +return. Had we been within distance, they would assuredly have hurled +their spears at us. Thirteen of them followed us to our resting place. +They kept rather apart from us, and kindled their fire in a little +hollow about fifty paces to our right; nor did they venture to approach +the tents unless we called to them, so that by their quiet and +unobtrusive conduct they made up in some measure for the unruly +proceedings of others of their tribe. +</P> + +<P> +We had now arrived at a point at which I hoped to gain some information +from the natives, respecting the sea. It was to no purpose, however, +that I questioned these stupid people. They understood perfectly, by my +pointing to the sky, and by other signs, that I was inquiring about +large waters, but they could not, or would not, give any information on +the subject. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY. +</H4> + +<P> +As we proceeded down the river, its current became weaker, and its +channel somewhat deeper. Our attention was called to a remarkable +change in the geology of the country, as well as to an apparent +alteration in the natural productions. The cliffs of sand and clay +ceased, and were succeeded by a fossil formation of the most singular +description. At first, it did not exceed a foot in height above the +water, but it gradually rose, like an inclined plane, and resembled in +colour, and in appearance, the skulls of men piled one upon the other. +The constant rippling of the water against the rock had washed out the +softer parts, and made hollows and cavities, that gave the whole +formation the precise appearance of a catacomb. On examination, we +discovered it to be a compact bed of shells, composed of a common +description of marine shell from two to three inches in length, +apparently a species of turritella. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +BANKS OF PETRIFIED SHELLS. +</H4> + +<P> +At about nine miles from the commencement of this formation, it rose to +the height of more than 150 feet; the country became undulating, and a +partial change took place in its vegetation. We stopped at an early +hour, to examine some cliffs, which rising perpendicularly from the +water, were different in character and substance from any we had as yet +seen. They approached a dirty yellow-ochre in colour, that became +brighter in hue as it rose, and, instead of being perforated, were +compact and hard. The waters of the river had, however, made horizontal +lines upon their fronts, which distinctly marked the rise and fall of +the river, as the strength or depth of the grooves distinctly indicated +the levels it generally kept. It did not appear from these lines, that +the floods ever rose more than four feet above the then level of the +stream, or that they continued for any length of time. On breaking off +pieces of the rock, we ascertained that it was composed of one solid +mass of sea-shells, of various kinds, of which the species first +mentioned formed the lowest part. +</P> + +<P> +It rained a good deal during the night, but the morning turned out +remarkably fine. The day was pleasant, for however inconvenient in some +respects the frequent showers had been, they had cooled the air, and +consequently prevented our feeling the heat so much as we should +otherwise have done, in the close and narrow glen we had now entered. +</P> + +<P> +Among the natives who followed us from the last tribe, there was an old +man, who took an uncommon fancy or attachment to Hopkinson, and who +promised, when we separated, to join us again in the course of the day. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +FACE OF THE COUNTRY. +</H4> + +<P> +As we proceeded down the river we found that it was confined in a glen, +whose extreme breadth was not more than half-a-mile. The hills that +rose on either side of it were of pretty equal height. The alluvial +flats were extremely small, and the boldest cliffs separated them from +each other. The flats were lightly wooded, and were for the most part +covered with reeds or polygonum. They were not much elevated above the +waters of the river, and had every appearance of being frequently +inundated. At noon we pulled up to dine, upon the left bank, under some +hills, which were from 200 to 250 feet in height. While the men were +preparing our tea, (for we had only that to boil,) M'Leay and I +ascended the hills. The brush was so thick upon them, that we could not +obtain a view of the distant interior. Their summits were covered with +oyster-shells, in such abundance as entirely to preclude the idea of +their having been brought to such a position by the natives. They were +in every stage of petrification. +</P> + +<P> +In the course of the afternoon the old man joined us, and got into the +boat. As far as we could understand from his signs, we were at no great +distance from some remarkable change or other. The river had been +making to the N.W., from the commencement of the fossil formation, and +it appeared as if it was inclined to keep that direction. The old man +pointed to the N.W., and then placed his hand on the side of his head +to indicate, as I understood him, that we should sleep to the N.W. of +where we then were; but his second motion was not so intelligible, for +he pointed due south, as if to indicate that such would be our future +course; and he concluded his information, such as it was, by describing +the roaring of the sea, and the height of the waves. It was evident +this old man had been upon the coast, and we were therefore highly +delighted at the prospect thus held out to us of reaching it. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +REMARKABLE CLIFFS. +</H4> + +<P> +A little below the hills under which we had stopped, the country again +assumed a level. A line of cliffs, of from two to three hundred feet in +height, flanked the river, first on one side and then on the other, +varying in length from a quarter of a mile to a mile. They rose +perpendicularly from the water, and were of a bright yellow colour, +rendered still more vivid occasionally by the sun shining full upon +them. The summits of these cliffs were as even as if they had been +built by an architect; and from their very edge, the country back from +the stream was of an uniform level, and was partly plain, and partly +clothed by brush. The soil upon this plateau, or table land, was sandy, +and it was as barren and unproductive as the worst of the country we +had passed through. On the other hand, the alluvial flats on the river +increased in size, and were less subject to flood; and the river lost +much of its sandy bed, and its current was greatly diminished in +strength. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +NATIVE CHARACTER. +</H4> + +<P> +It blew so fresh, during the greater part of the day, from the +westward, that we had great difficulty in pulling against the breeze. +The determined N.W. course the river kept, made me doubt the +correctness of the story of the little old black; yet there was an +openness of manner about him, and a clearness of description, that did +not appear like fabrication. He pointed to the S.S.W. when he left us, +as the direction in which he would again join us, thus confirming, +without any apparent intention, what he had stated with regard to the +southerly course the river was about to take. Among the natives who +were with him, there was another man of very different manners and +appearance. Our friend was small in stature, had piercing grey eyes, +and was as quick as lightning in his movements The other was tall, and +grey headed; anxious, yet unobtrusive; and confident, without the least +mixture of boldness. The study of the human character on many occasions +similar to this, during our intercourse with these people, rude and +uncivilized as they were, was not only pleasing, but instructive. We +found that the individuals of a tribe partook of one general character, +and that the whole of the tribe were either decidedly quiet, or as +decidedly disorderly. The whole of the blacks left us when we started, +but we had not gone very far, when the individual I have described +brought his family, consisting of about fifteen persons. We were going +down a part of the river in which there was a very slight fall. The +natives were posted under some blue-gum trees, upon the right bank, and +there was a broad shoal of sand immediately to our left. They walked +over to this shoal, to receive some little presents, but did not follow +when we continued our journey. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +TAKE BEARINGS. +</H4> + +<P> +During the whole of the day the river ran to the N.W. We stopped for +the night under some cliffs, similar to those we had already passed, +but somewhat higher. From their summit, mountains were visible to the +N.W., but at a great distance from us. I doubted not that they were at +the head of the southern gulfs; or of one of them, at all events. Our +observations placed us in 34 degrees 08 minutes south of lat., and in +long. 139 degrees 41 minutes 15 seconds; we were consequently nearly +seventy miles from Spencer's Gulf, in a direct line, and I should have +given that as the distance the hills appeared to be from us. They bore +as follows:— +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> + Lofty round mountain, S. 127 degrees W.<BR> + Mountain scarcely visible, S. 128 degrees W.<BR> + Northern extremity of a broken range, S. 102 degrees W.<BR> + Southern extremity scarcely visible, S. 58 degrees W.<BR> +</P> + +<P> +The country between the river and these ranges appeared to be very low, +and darkly wooded: that to the N.E. was more open. The summit of the +cliff did not form any table-land, but it dipped almost immediately to +the westward, and the country, although, as I have already remarked, it +was depressed, and undulated. +</P> + +<P> +I walked to some distance from the river, across a valley, and started +several kangaroos; but I was quite alone, and could not, therefore, +secure one of them. Had the dogs been near, we should have had a fine +feast. The soil of the interior still continued sandy, but there was a +kind of short grass mixed with the salsolaceous plants upon it, that +indicated, as I thought, a change for the better in the vegetation; and +the circumstance of there being kangaroos in the valleys to the +westward was also a favourable sign. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +FEAST ON A TORTOISE. +</H4> + +<P> +Beneath the cliffs hereabouts, the river was extremely broad and deep. +My servant thought it a good place for fishing and accordingly set a +night-line, one end of which he fastened to the bough of a tree. During +the night, being on guard, he saw a small tortoise floating on the +water, so near that he struck it a violent blow with a large stick, +upon which it dived: to his surprise, however, in the morning, he found +that it had taken the bait, and was fast to the line. On examining it, +the shell proved to be cracked, so that the blow must have been a +severe one. It was the largest we had ever seen, and made an excellent +dish. The flesh was beautifully white, nor could anything, especially +under our circumstances, have been more tempting than it was when +cooked; yet M'Leay would not partake of it. +</P> + +<P> +The prevailing wind was, at this time, from the S.W. It blew heavily +all day, but moderated towards the evening. +</P> + +<P> +I was very anxious, at starting on the 3rd, as to the course the river +would take, since it would prove whether the little old man had played +us false or not. From the cliffs under which we had slept, it held a +direct N.W. course for two or three miles. It then turned suddenly to +the S.E., and gradually came round to E.N.E., so that after two hours +pulling, we found ourselves just opposite to the spot from which we had +started, the neck of land that separated the channels not being more +than 200 yards across. I have before noticed a bend similar to this, +which the Murray makes, a little above the junction of the supposed +Darling with it. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CHART OF THE RIVER. +</H4> + +<P> +It may appear strange to some of my readers, that I should have laid +down the windings of the river so minutely. It may therefore be +necessary for me to state that every bend of it was laid down by +compass, and that the bearings of the angles as they opened were +regularly marked by me, so that not a single winding or curve of the +Murray is omitted in the large chart. The length of some of the reaches +may be erroneous, but their direction is strictly correct. I always had +a sheet of paper and the compass before me, and not only marked down +the river line, but also the description of country nearest; its most +minute changes, its cliffs, its flats, the kind of country back from +it, its lagoons, the places at which the tribes assembled, its +junctions, tributaries and creeks, together with our several positions, +were all regularly noted, so that on our return up the river we had no +difficulty in ascertaining upon what part of it we were, by a reference +to the chart; and it proved of infinite service to us, since we were +enabled to judge of our distance from our several camps, as we gained +them day by day with the current against us; and we should often have +stopped short of them, weary and exhausted, had we not known that two +or three reaches more would terminate our labour for the day. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +REMARKABLE CLIFFS. +</H4> + +<P> +From the spot last spoken of, the river held on a due south course for +the remainder of the day; and at the same time changed its character. +It lost its sandy bed and its current together, and became deep, still, +and turbid, with a muddy bottom. It increased considerably in breadth, +and stretched away before us in magnificent reaches of from three to +six miles in length. The cliffs under which we passed towered above us, +like maritime cliffs, and the water dashed against their base like the +waves of the sea. They became brighter and brighter in colour, looking +like dead gold in the sun's rays; and formed an unbroken wall of a mile +or two in length. The natives on their summits showed as small as +crows; and the cockatoos, the eagles, and other birds, were as specks +above us; the former made the valley reverberate with their harsh and +discordant notes. The reader may form some idea of the height of these +cliffs, when informed that the king of the feathered race made them his +sanctuary. They were continuous on both sides of the river, but +retired, more or less, from it, according to the extent of the alluvial +flats. The river held a serpentine course down the valley through which +it passed, striking the precipices alternately on each side. +</P> + +<P> +The soil on the flats was better, and less mixed with sand than it had +been, but the flats were generally covered with reeds, though certainly +not wholly subject to flood at any time. The polygonum still prevailed +upon them in places, and the blue-gum tree alone occupied their +outskirts. From the several elevations we ascended, the country to the +N.W. appeared undulating and well wooded; that to the eastward, seemed +to be brushy and low. Certainly there was a great difference in the +country, both to the eastward and to the westward. We had frequent +views of the mountains we had seen, or, I should have said, of a +continuation of them. They bore nearly west from us at a very great +distance all day. +</P> + +<P> +We fell in with several tribes, but did not see our old friend, +although, from the inquiries we made, it was evident he was well known +among them. It would disgust my readers were I to describe the +miserable state of disease and infirmity to which these tribes were +reduced. Leprosy of the most loathsome description, the most violent +cutaneous eruptions, and glandular affections, absolutely raged through +the whole of them; yet we could not escape from the persecuting +examination of our persons that curiosity prompted them in some measure +to insist upon. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +REJOINED BY OUR OLD NATIVE GUIDE. +</H4> + +<P> +The old man, whose information had proved strictly correct, joined us +again on the 4th, and his joy at being received into the boat was +unbounded, as well as the pleasure he expressed at again meeting +Hopkinson. He had been on a long journey, it would appear, for he had +not then reached his tribe. As we approached their haunt, he landed and +preceded us to collect them. We were, of course, more than usually +liberal to so old a friend, and we were really sorry to part with him. +</P> + +<P> +Soon after leaving his tribe, which occupied the left bank of the +river, and was very weak in point of numbers, we fell in with a very +strong tribe upon the right bank. They numbered 211 in all. We lay off +the bank, in order to escape their importunities; a measure that by no +means satisfied them. The women appeared to be very prolific; but, as a +race, these people are not to be compared with the natives of the +mountains, or of the upper branches of the Murray. +</P> + +<P> +We passed some beautiful scenery in the course of the day. The river +preserved a direct southerly course, and could not in any place have +been less than 400 yards in breadth. The cliffs still continued, and +varied perpetually in form; at one time presenting a perpendicular wall +to the view, at others, they overhung the stream, in huge fragments. +All were composed of a mass of shells of various kinds; a fact which +will call for further observation and remark. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DELAYED BY STRONG WINDS. +</H4> + +<P> +Many circumstances at this time tended to confirm our hopes that the +sea could not be very far from us, or that we should not be long in +gaining it. Some sea-gulls flew over our heads, at which Fraser was +about to shoot, had I not prevented him, for I hailed them as the +messengers of glad tidings, and thought they ill deserved such a fate. +It blew very hard from the S.W., during the whole of the day, and we +found it extremely laborious pulling against the heavy and short sea +that came rolling up the broad and open reaches of the Murray at this +place. +</P> + +<P> +Four of the blacks, from the last tribe, followed us, and slept at the +fires; but they were suspicious and timid, and appeared to be very glad +when morning dawned. Our fires were always so much larger than those +made by themselves, that, they fancied, perhaps, we were going to roast +them. Our dogs, likewise, gave them great uneasiness; for although so +fond of the native brute, they feared ours, from their size. We +generally tied them to the boat, therefore, to prevent a recurrence of +theft, so that they were not altogether useless. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap06"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER VI. +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Improvement in the aspect of the country—Increase of the river—Strong +westerly gales—Chronometer broken—A healthier tribe of +natives—Termination of the Murray in a large lake—Its extent and +environs—Passage across it—Hostile appearance of the +natives—Beautiful scenery—Channel from the lake to the sea at +Encounter Bay—Reach the beach—Large flocks of water fowl—Curious +refraction—State of provisions—Embarrassing situation—Inspection of +the channel to the ocean—Weak condition of the men—Difficulties of +the return. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DELIGHTFUL COUNTRY. +</H4> + +<P> +It now appeared that the Murray had taken a permanent southerly course; +indeed, it might strictly be said that it ran away to the south. As we +proceeded down it, the valley expanded to the width of two miles; the +alluvial flats became proportionably larger; and a small lake generally +occupied their centre. They were extensively covered with reeds and +grass, for which reason, notwithstanding that they were little elevated +above the level of the stream, I do not think they are subject to +overflow. Parts of them may be laid under water, but certainly not the +whole. The rains at the head of the Murray, and its tributaries, must +be unusually severe to prolong their effects to this distant region, +and the flats bordering it appear, by successive depositions, to have +only just gained a height above the further influence of the floods. +Should this prove to be the case, the valley may be decidedly laid down +as a most desirable spot, whether we regard the richness of its soil, +its rock formation, its locality, or the extreme facility of water +communication along it. It must not, however, be forgotten or +concealed, that the summits of the cliffs by which the valley is +enclosed, have not a corresponding soil. On the contrary, many of the +productions common to the plains of the interior still existed upon +them, and they were decidedly barren; but as we measured the reaches of +the river, the cliffs ceased, and gave place to undulating hills, that +were very different in appearance from the country we had previously +noted down. It would have been impossible for the most tasteful +individual to have laid out pleasure ground to more advantage, than +Nature had done in planting and disposing the various groups of trees +along the spine, and upon the sides of the elevations that confined the +river, and bounded the low ground that intervened between it and their +base. Still, however, the soil upon these elevations was sandy, and +coarse, but the large oat-grass was abundant upon them, which yielded +pasture at least as good as that in the broken country between +Underaliga and Morumbidgee. +</P> + +<P> +We had now gained a distance of at least sixty miles from that angle of +the Murray at which it reaches its extreme west. The general aspect of +the country to our right was beautiful, and several valleys branched +away into the interior upon that side which had a most promising +appearance, and seemed to abound with kangaroos, as the traces of them +were numerous, and the dogs succeeded in killing one, which, to our +great mortification, we could not find. +</P> + +<P> +While, however, the country to the westward had so much to recommend +it, the hills to our left became extremely bare. It was evident that +the right was the sheltered side of the valley. The few trees on the +opposite side bent over to the N.E., as if under the influence of some +prevailing wind. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ADVERSE GALES. +</H4> + +<P> +We experienced at this time a succession of gales from the S.W., +against which we, on several occasions, found it useless to contend: +the waves on the river being heavy and short; and the boat, driving her +prow into them, sent the spray over us and soon wet us through. Indeed, +it is difficult for the reader to imagine the heavy swell that rolled +up the river, which had increased in breadth to the third of a mile, +and in the length of its reaches to eight or ten. I was satisfied that +we were not only navigating this river at a particularly stormy, +perhaps THE stormy, season; but also, that the influence of the S.W. +wind is felt even as far in the interior as to the supposed Darling; in +consequence of the uniform build of the huts, and the circumstance of +their not only facing the N.E., but also being almost invariably +erected under the lee of some bush. +</P> + +<P> +The weather, under the influence of the wind we experienced, was cool +and pleasant, although the thermometer stood at a medium height of 86 +degrees; but we found it very distressing to pull against the heavy +breezes that swept up the valley, and bent the reeds so as almost to +make them kiss the stream. +</P> + +<P> +We communicated on the 6th and 7th with several large tribes of +natives, whose manners were on the whole quiet and inoffensive. They +distinctly informed us, that we were fast approaching the sea, and, +from what I could understand, we were nearer to it than the coast line +of Encounter Bay made us. We had placed sticks to ascertain if there +was any rise or fall of tide, but the troubled state of the river +prevented our experiments from being satisfactory. By selecting a +place, however, that was sheltered from the effects of the wind, we +ascertained that there was an apparent rise of about eight inches. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +OBLIGED TO TAKE REPOSE. +</H4> + +<P> +It blew a heavy gale during the whole of the 7th; and we laboured in +vain at the oar. The gusts that swept the bosom of the water, and the +swell they caused, turned the boat from her course, and prevented us +from making an inch of way. The men were quite exhausted, and, as they +had conducted themselves so well, and had been so patient, I felt +myself obliged to grant them every indulgence consistent with our +safety. However precarious our situation, it would have been vain, with +our exhausted strength, to have contended against the elements. We, +therefore, pulled in to the left bank of the river, and pitched our +tents on a little rising ground beyond the reeds that lined it. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CHRONOMETER BROKEN. +</H4> + +<P> +I had been suffering very much front tooth-ache for the last three or +four days, and this day felt the most violent pain from the wind. I was +not, therefore, sorry to get under even the poor shelter our tents +afforded. M'Leay, observing that I was in considerable pain, undertook +to wind up the chronometer; but, not understanding or knowing the +instrument, he unfortunately broke the spring. I shall not forget the +anxiety he expressed, and the regret he felt on the occasion; nor do I +think M'Leay recovered the shock this unlucky accident gave him for two +or three days, or until the novelty of other scenes drove it from his +recollection. +</P> + +<P> +We landed close to the haunt of a small tribe of natives, who came to +us with the most perfect confidence, and assisted the men in their +occupations. They were cleaner and more healthy than any tribe we had +seen; and were extremely cheerful, although reserved in some respects. +As a mark of more than usual cleanliness, the women had mats of oval +shape, upon which they sat, made, apparently, of rushes. There was a +young girl among them of a most cheerful disposition. She was about +eighteen, was well made, and really pretty. This girl was married to an +elderly man who had broken his leg, which having united in a bent +shape, the limb was almost useless. I really believe the girl thought +we could cure her husband, from her importunate manner to us. I +regretted that I could do nothing for the man, but to show that I was +not inattentive to her entreaties, I gave him a pair of trousers, and +desired Fraser to put them upon him; but the poor fellow cut so awkward +an appearance in them, that his wife became quite distressed, and +Fraser was obliged speedily to disencumber him from them again. +</P> + +<P> +We could not gain any satisfactory information, as to the termination +of the river, from these people. It was evident that some change was at +hand; but what it was we could not ascertain. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +APPEARANCE OF SOME APPROACHING CHANGE. +</H4> + +<P> +On the morning of the 9th, we left our fair friend and her lame +husband, and proceeded down the river. The wind had moderated, although +it still blew fresh. We ascended every height as we went along, but +could not see any new feature in the country. Our view to the eastward +was very confined; to the westward the interior was low and dark, and +was backed in the distance by lofty ranges, parallel to which we had +been running for some days. The right bank of the valley was +beautifully undulated, but the left was bleak and bare. The valley had +a breadth of from three to four miles, and the flats were more +extensive under the former than under the latter. They were scarcely +two feet above the level of the water, and were densely covered with +reeds. As there was no mark upon the reeds to indicate the height to +which the floods rose, I cannot think that these flats are ever wholly +laid under water; if they are, it cannot be to any depth: at all events +a few small drains would effectually prevent inundation. The soil upon +the hills continued to be much mixed with sand, and the prevailing +trees were cypress and box. Among the minor shrubs and grass, many +common to the east coasts were noticed; and although the bold cliffs +had ceased, the basis of the country still continued of the fossil +formation. At a turn of the stream hereabouts, however, a solitary rock +of coarse red granite rose above the waters, and formed an island in +its centre; but only in this one place was it visible. The rock was +composed principally of quartz and feldspar. +</P> + +<P> +A little below it, we found a large tribe anxiously awaiting our +arrival. They crowded to the margin of the river with great eagerness, +and evinced more surprise at our appearance than any tribe we had seen +during the journey; but we left them very soon, notwithstanding that +they importuned us much to stay. +</P> + +<P> +After pulling a mile or two, we found a clear horizon before us to the +south. The hills still continued upon our left, but we could not see +any elevation over the expanse of reeds to our right. The river +inclined to the left, and swept the base of the hills that still +continued on that side. I consequently landed once more to survey the +country. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +TERMINATION OF THE MURRAY IN A LARGE LAKE. +</H4> + +<P> +I still retained a strong impression on my mind that some change was at +hand, and on this occasion, I was not disappointed; but the view was +one for which I was not altogether prepared. We had, at length, arrived +at the termination of the Murray. Immediately below me was a beautiful +lake, which appeared to be a fitting reservoir for the noble stream +that had led us to it; and which was now ruffled by the breeze that +swept over it. The ranges were more distinctly visible, stretching from +south to north, and were certainly distant forty miles. They had a +regular unbroken outline; declining gradually to the south, but +terminating abruptly at a lofty mountain northerly. I had no doubt on +my mind of this being the Mount Lofty of Captain Flinders; or that the +range was that immediately to the eastward of St. Vincent's Gulf—Since +the accident to the chronometer, we had not made any westing, so that +we knew our position as nearly as possible. Between us and the ranges a +beautiful promontory shot into the lake, being a continuation of the +right bank of the Murray. Over this promontory the waters stretched to +the base of the ranges, and formed an extensive bay. To the N.W. the +country was exceedingly low, but distant peaks were just visible over +it. To the S.W. a bold headland showed itself; beyond which, to the +westward, there was a clear and open sea visible, through a strait +formed by this headland and a point projecting from the opposite shore. +To the E. and S.E. the country was low, excepting the left shore of the +lake, which was backed by some minor elevations, crowned with +cypresses. Even while gazing on this fine scene, I could not but regret +that the Murray had thus terminated; for I immediately foresaw that, in +all probability, we should be disappointed in finding any practicable +communication between the lake and the ocean, as it was evident that +the former was not much influenced by tides. The wind had again +increased; it still blew fresh from the S.W. and a heavy sea was +rolling direct into the mouth of the river. I hoped, notwithstanding, +that we should have been enabled to make sail, for which reason we +entered the lake about 2 p.m. The natives had kindled a large fire on a +distant point between us and the further headland, and to gain this +point our efforts were now directed. The waves were, however, too +strong, and we were obliged to make for the eastern shore, until such +time as the weather should moderate. We pitched our tents on a low +track of land that stretched away seemingly for many miles directly +behind us to the eastward. It was of the richest soil, being a black +vegetable deposit, and although now high above the influence, the lake +had, it was evident, once formed a part of its bed. The appearance of +the country altogether encouraged M'Leay and myself to walk out, in +order to examine it from some hills a little to the S.E. of the camp. +From them we observed that the flat extended over about fifty miles, +and was bounded by the elevations that continued easterly from the left +bank of the Murray to the north, and by a line of rising-ground to the +south. The whole was lightly wooded, and covered with grass. The season +must have been unusually dry, judging from the general appearance of +the vegetation, and from the circumstance of the lagoons in the +interior being wholly exhausted. +</P> + +<P> +Thirty-three days had now passed over our heads since we left the depot +upon the Morumbidgee, twenty-six of which had been passed upon the +Murray. We had, at length, arrived at the grand reservoir of those +waters whose course and fate had previously been involved in such +obscurity. It remained for us to ascertain whether the extensive sheet +of water upon whose bosom we had embarked, had any practicable +communication with the ocean, and whether the country in the +neighbourhood of the coast corresponded with that immediately behind +our camp, or kept up its sandy and sterile character to the very verge +of the sea. As I have already said, my hopes on the first of these +points were considerably damped, but I could not help anticipating a +favourable change in the latter, since its features had so entirely +changed. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DETAINED BY THE WIND. +</H4> + +<P> +The greatest difficulty against which we had at present to contend was +the wind; and I dreaded the exertion it would call for, to make head +against it; for the men were so much reduced that I felt convinced they +were inadequate to any violent or prolonged effort. It still blew fresh +at 8 p.m., but at that time it began to moderate. It may be imagined +that I listened to its subdued gusts with extreme anxiety. It did not +wholly abate until after 2 a.m., when it gradually declined, and about +3 a light breeze sprung up from the N. E. +</P> + +<P> +We had again placed sticks to ascertain with more precision the rise of +tide, and found it to be the same as in the river. In the stillness of +the night too we thought we heard the roaring of the sea, but I was +myself uncertain upon the point, as the wind might have caused the +sound. +</P> + +<P> +From the top of the hill from which we had obtained our first view of +the lake, I observed the waves breaking upon the distant headland, and +enveloping the cliff in spray; so that, independent of the clearness of +the horizon beyond it, I was further led to conclude that there existed +a great expanse of water to the S.W.; and, as that had been the +direction taken by the river, I thought it probable that by steering at +once to the S.W. down the lake, I should hit the outlet. I, +consequently, resolved to gain the southern extremity of the lake, as +that at which it was natural to expect a communication with the ocean +would be found. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. +</H4> + +<P> +At 4 we had a moderate breeze, and it promised to strengthen; we lost +no time therefore in embarking, and with a flowing sheet stretched over +to the W.S.W., and ran along the promontory formed by the right bank of +the Murray. We passed close under its extreme point at nine. The hills +had gradually declined, and we found the point to be a flat, elevated +about thirty feet above the lake. It was separated from the promontory +by a small channel that was choked up with reeds, so that it is more +than probable that the point is insulated at certain periods; whilst in +its stratification it resembled the first cliffs I have described that +were passed below the Darling. It is a remarkable fact in the geology +of the Murray, that such should be the case; and that the formation at +each extremity of the great bank or bed of fossils should be the same. +Thus far, the waters of the lake had continued sweet; but on filling a +can when we were abreast of this point, it was found that they were +quite unpalatable, to say the least of them. The transition from fresh +to salt water was almost immediate, and it was fortunate we made the +discovery in sufficient time to prevent our losing ground. But, as it +was, we filled our casks, and stood on, without for a moment altering +our course. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +PASSAGE ACROSS THE LAKE—ITS SHALLOWNESS. +</H4> + +<P> +It is difficult to give a just description of our passage across the +lake. The boisterous weather we had had seemed to have blown over. A +cool and refreshing breeze was carrying us on at between four and five +knots an hour, and the heavens above us were without a cloud. It almost +appeared as if nature had resisted us in order to try our perseverance, +and that she had yielded in pity to our efforts. The men, relieved for +a time from the oar, stretched themselves at their length in the boat, +and commented on the scenery around them, or ventured their opinions as +to that which was before them. Up to this moment their conduct had been +most exemplary; not a murmur had escaped from them, and they filled the +water-casks with the utmost cheerfulness, even whilst tasting the +disagreeable beverage they would most probably have to subsist on for +the next three or four days. +</P> + +<P> +As soon as we had well opened the point, we had a full view of the +splendid bay that, commencing at the western most of the central +points, swept in a beautiful curve under the ranges. No land was +visible to the W.N.W. or to the S.S.W.: in both these quarters the lake +was as open as the ocean. It appeared, therefore, that the land +intermediate was an island. To the north the country was extremely low, +and as we increased our distance from it we lost sight of it +altogether. At noon we were nearly abreast of the eastern headland, or +in the centre of the strait to which I have alluded. At this time there +was an open sea from W.N.W. to N. by E. A meridian altitude gave our +latitude 35 degrees 25 minutes. The land to our left was bold and +precipitous; that to the right was low and wooded; and there was +evidently a considerable space between the shores of the lake and the +base of the ranges. The country to the eastward was hidden from us by +the line of cliffs, beyond which from E.S.E. to W.S.W. there was an +open sea. We had kept the lead going from the first, and I was +surprised at the extreme shallowness of the lake in every part, as we +never had six feet upon the line. Its bottom was one of black mud, and +weeds of enormous length were floating on its surface, detached by the +late gales, and which, from the shallowness of the lake, got constantly +entangled with our rudder. +</P> + +<P> +We tried to land on the eastern point, but found the water too shallow, +and were obliged to try the western shore. In passing close under the +head, we observed several natives upon it, who kindled a large fire as +soon as they saw they were noticed, which was answered from every +point; for, in less than ten minutes afterwards, we counted no fewer +than fourteen different fires, the greater number of which were on the +side of the ranges. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +SHORES OF THE LAKE. +</H4> + +<P> +As we were standing across from one shore to the other, our attention +was drawn to a most singular object. It started suddenly up, as above +the waters to the south, and strikingly resembled an isolated castle. +Behind it, a dense column of smoke rose into the sky, and the effect +was most remarkable. On a nearer approach, the phantom disappeared and +a clear and open sea again presented itself to our view. The fact was, +that the refractive power upon the coast had elevated the sand-hillocks +above their true position, since we satisfactorily ascertained that +they alone separated the lake from the ocean, and that they alone could +have produced the semblance we noticed. It is a singular fact, that +this very hillock was the one which Capt. Barker ascended whilst +carrying on the survey of the south coast, and immediately previous to +his tragical death. +</P> + +<P> +It was not without difficulty that we succeeded in landing on the +western shore; but we did, at length, succeed, and prepared our +dinners. The shore was low, but above the reach of all floods; the soil +was rich, and superficially sandy. It was covered with high grasses, +and abounded in kangaroos; within the space of a few yards we found +five or six, but they were immediately lost to us and to the dogs in +the luxuriance of the vegetation amidst which they were feeding. +</P> + +<P> +As soon as we had finished our meal, we once more embarked, and stood +along the shore to the S.W., but the lake was so shoal, that I was +every moment apprehensive we should ground. I ran across, therefore, to +the south, towards a low flat that had just appeared above the line of +the horizon, in hope that, in sounding, we should have found the +channel, but there either was none, or else it was so narrow that we +passed over it between the heaves of the lead. At this time, the +western shore was quite distinct, and the scenery was beautiful. +</P> + +<P> +The flat we were approaching was a mud-flat, and, from its appearance, +the tide was certainly at the ebb. We observed some cradles, or wicker +frames, placed far below high water-mark, that were each guarded by two +natives, who threatened us violently as we approached. In running along +the land, the stench from them plainly indicated what they were which +these poor creatures were so anxiously watching. +</P> + +<P> +We steered a S.W. course, towards some low and wooded hills, passing a +rocky island, and found that we had struck the mouth of a channel +running to the W.S.W. It was about half-a-mile wide, was bounded to the +right by some open flat ground, and to the left by a line of hills of +about sixty or seventy feet in elevation, partly open and partly +covered with beefwood. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +WARLIKE DEMEANOUR OF THE NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +Upon the first of these hills, we observed a large body of natives, who +set up the most terrific yells as we approached. They were fully +equipped for battle and, as we neared the shore, came down to meet us +with the most violent threats. I wished much to communicate with them, +and, not without hopes of quieting them, stood right in with the +intention of landing. I observed, however, that if I did so, I should +have to protect myself. I hauled a little off, and endeavoured, by +holding up a branch and a tomahawk, to gain their confidence, but they +were not to be won over by my show of pacification. An elderly man +walked close to the water's edge unarmed, and, evidently, directed the +others. He was followed by seven or eight of the most daring, who crept +into the reeds, with their spears shipped to throw at us. I, therefore, +took up my gun to return their salute. It then appeared that they were +perfectly aware of the weapon I carried, for the moment they saw it, +they dashed out of their hiding place and retreated to the main body; +but the old man, after saying something to them, walked steadily on, +and I, on my part, laid my firelock down again. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +LOVELY EVENING. +</H4> + +<P> +It was now near sunset; and one of the most lovely evenings I had ever +seen. The sun's radiance was yet upon the mountains, but all lower +objects were in shade. The banks of the channel, with the trees and the +rocks, were reflected in the tranquil waters, whose surface was +unruffled save by the thousands of wild fowl that rose before us, and +made a noise as of a multitude clapping hands, in their clumsy efforts +to rise from the waters. Not one of them allowed us to get within shot. +</P> + +<P> +We proceeded about a mile below the hill on which the natives were +posted; some few still following us with violent threats. We landed, +however, on a flat, bounded all round by the continuation of the hills. +It was an admirable position, for, in the centre of it, we could not be +taken by surprise, and, on the other hand, we gave the natives an +opportunity of communicating with us if they would. The full moon rose +as we were forming the camp, and, notwithstanding our vicinity to so +noisy a host, the silence of death was around us, or the stillness of +the night was only broken by the roar of the ocean, now too near to be +mistaken for wind, or by the silvery and melancholy note of the black +swans as they passed over us, to seek for food, no doubt, among the +slimy weeds at the head of the lake. We had been quite delighted with +the beauty of the channel, which was rather more than half-a-mile in +width. Numberless mounds, that seemed to invite civilised man to erect +his dwelling upon them, presented themselves to our view. The country +round them was open, yet ornamentally wooded, and rocks and trees hung +or drooped over the waters. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +EXTENT OF THE LAKE. +</H4> + +<P> +We had in one day gained a position I once feared it would have cost us +infinite labour to have measured. Indeed, had we been obliged to pull +across the lake, unless during a calm, I am convinced the men would +have been wholly exhausted. We had to thank a kind Providence that such +was not the case, since it had extended its mercy to us at so critical +a moment. We had indeed need of all the little strength we had +remaining, and could ill have thrown it away on such an effort as this +would have required. I calculated that we could not have run less than +forty-five miles during the day, a distance that, together with the +eight miles we had advanced the evening previously, would give the +length of the lake at fifty-three miles. +</P> + +<P> +We had approached to within twelve miles of the ranges, but had not +gained their southern extremity. From the camp, Mount Barker bore +nearly north. The ranges appeared to run north and south to our +position, and then to bend away to the S.S.W., gradually declining to +that point, which I doubted not terminated in Cape Jervis. The natives +kept aloof during the night, nor did the dogs by a single growl +intimate that any had ventured to approach us. The sound of the surf +came gratefully to our ears, for it told us we were near the goal for +which we had so anxiously pushed, and we all of us promised ourselves a +view of the boundless ocean on the morrow. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CHANNEL TO THE SEA—ITS SHALLOWNESS. +</H4> + +<P> +As the morning dawned, we saw that the natives had thrown an out-post +of sixteen men across the channel, who were watching our motions; but +none showed themselves on the hills behind us, or on any part of the +south shore. We embarked as soon as we had breakfasted, A fresh breeze +was blowing from the N.E. which took us rapidly down the channel, and +our prospects appeared to be as cheering as the day, for just as we +were about to push from the shore, a seal rose close to the boat, which +we all regarded as a favourable omen. We were, however, shortly stopped +by shoals; it was in vain that we beat across the channel from one side +to the other; it was a continued shoal, and the deepest water appeared +to be under the left bank. The tide, however, had fallen, and exposed +broad flats, over which it was hopeless, under existing circumstances, +to haul the boat. We again landed on the south side of the channel, +patiently to await the high water. +</P> + +<P> +M'Leay, myself, and Fraser, ascended the hills, and went to the +opposite side to ascertain the course of the channel, for immediately +above us it turned south round the hills. We there found that we were +on a narrow tongue of land. The channel was immediately below us, and +continued to the E.S.E. as far as we could trace it. The hills we were +upon, were the sandy hills that always bound a coast that is low, and +were covered with banksias, casuarina and the grass-tree. +</P> + +<P> +To the south of the channel there was a flat, backed by a range of +sand-hummocks, that were covered with low shrubs; and beyond them the +sea was distinctly visible. We could not have been more than two and a +half miles from the beach where we stood. +</P> + +<P> +Notwithstanding the sandy nature of the soil, the fossil formation +again showed itself, not only on these hills, but also on the rocks +that were in the channel. +</P> + +<P> +A little before high water we again embarked. A seal had been observed +playing about, and we augured well from such an omen. The blacks had +been watching us from the opposite shore, and as soon as we moved, rose +to keep abreast of us. With all our efforts we could not avoid the +shoals. We walked up to our knees in mud and water, to find the least +variation in the depth of the water so as to facilitate our exertions, +but it was to no purpose. We were ultimately obliged to drag the boat +over the flats; there were some of them a quarter of a mile in breadth, +knee-deep in mud; but at length got her into deep water again. The turn +of the channel was now before us, and we had a good run for about four +or five miles. We had completed the bend, and the channel now stretched +to the E.S.E. At about nine miles from us there was a bright sand-hill +visible, near which the channel seemed to turn again to the south; and +I doubted not that it terminated there. It was to no purpose, however, +that we tried to gain it. Shoals again closed in upon us on every side. +We dragged the boat over several, and at last got amongst quicksands. +I, therefore, directed our efforts to hauling the boat over to the +south side of the channel, as that on which we could most +satisfactorily ascertain our position. After great labour we succeeded, +and, as evening had closed in, lost no time in pitching the tents. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +BEACH OF ENCOUNTER BAY. +</H4> + +<P> +While the men were thus employed, I took Fraser with me, and, +accompanied by M'Leay, crossed the sand-hummocks behind us, and +descended to the sea-shore. I found that we had struck the south coast +deep in the bight of Encounter Bay. We had no time for examination, but +returned immediately to the camp, as I intended to give the men an +opportunity to go to the beach. They accordingly went and bathed, and +returned not only highly delighted at this little act of good nature on +my part, but loaded with cockles, a bed of which they had managed to +find among the sand. Clayton had tied one end of his shirt up, and +brought a bag full, and amused himself with boiling cockles all night +long. +</P> + +<P> +If I had previously any hopes of being enabled ultimately to push the +boat over the flats that were before us, a view of the channel at low +water, convinced me of the impracticability of any further attempt. The +water was so low that every shoal was exposed, and many stretched +directly from one side of the channel to the other; and, but for the +treacherous nature of the sand-banks, it would not have been difficult +to have walked over dry footed to the opposite side of it. The channel +stretched away to the E.S.E., to a distance of seven or eight miles, +when it appeared to turn south under a small sand-hill, upon which the +rays of the sun fell, as it was sinking behind us. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CURIOUS EFFECT OF REFRACTION. +</H4> + +<P> +There was an innumerable flock of wild-fowl arranged in rows along the +sides of the pools left by the tide, and we were again amused by the +singular effect of the refraction upon them, and the grotesque and +distorted forms they exhibited. Swans, pelicans, ducks, and geese, were +mingled together, and, according to their distance from us, presented +different appearances. Some were exceedingly tall and thin, others were +unnaturally broad. Some appeared reversed, or as if they were standing +on their heads, and the slightest motion, particularly the flapping of +their wings, produced a most ridiculous effect. No doubt, the situation +and the state of the atmosphere were favourable to the effect I have +described. The day had been fine, the evening was beautiful,—but it +was the rarefaction of the air immediately playing on the ground, and +not the haze at sunset that caused what I have noticed. It is distinct +from mirage, although it is difficult to point out the difference. The +one, however, distorts, the other conceals objects, and gives them a +false distance. The one is clear, the other is cloudy. The one raises +objects above their true position, the other does not. The one plays +about, the other is steady; but I cannot hope to give a proper idea +either of mirage or refraction so satisfactorily as I could wish. Many +travellers have dwelt upon their effects, particularly upon those of +the former, but few have attempted to account for them. +</P> + +<P> +Our situation was one of peculiar excitement and interest. To our right +the thunder of the heavy surf, that almost shook the ground beneath us, +broke with increasing roar upon our ears; to our left the voice of the +natives echoed through the brush, and the size of their fires at the +extremity of the channel, seemed to indicate the alarm our appearance +had occasioned. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CRITICAL SITUATION OF THE PARTY. +</H4> + +<P> +While the men were enjoying their cockles, a large kettle of which they +had boiled, M'Leay and I were anxiously employed in examining the state +of our provisions, and in ascertaining what still remained. Flour and +tea were the only articles we had left, so that the task was not a +difficult one. It appeared that we had not sufficient of either to last +us to Pondebadgery, at which place we expected to find supplies; and, +taking every thing into consideration, our circumstances were really +critical. +</P> + +<P> +The first view of Encounter Bay had convinced me that no vessel would +ever venture into it at a season when the S.W. winds prevailed. It was +impossible that we could remain upon the coast in expectation of the +relief that I doubted not had been hurried off for us; since +disappointment would have sealed our fate at once. In the deep bight in +which we were, I could not hope that any vessel would approach +sufficiently near to be seen by us. Our only chance of attracting +notice would have been by crossing the Ranges to the Gulf St. Vincent, +but the men had not strength to walk, and I hesitated to divide my +party in the presence of a determined and numerous enemy, who closely +watched our motions. Setting aside the generous feelings that had +prompted M'Leay to participate in every danger with me, and who I am +persuaded would have deeply felt a separation, my anxiety not only on +his account, but on account of the men I might leave in charge of the +boat, made me averse to this measure; the chance of any misfortune to +them involving in it the destruction of our boat and the loss of our +provisions. My anxiety of mind would have rendered me unfit for +exertion; yet so desirous was I of examining the ranges and the country +at their base, that I should, had our passage to the salt water been +uninterrupted, have determined on coasting it homewards, or of steering +for Launceston; and most assuredly, with my present experience, I would +rather incur the hazards of so desperate a step, than contend against +all the evils that beset us on out homeward journey. And the reader may +rest assured, I was as much without hopes of our eventual safety, as I +was astonished, at the close of our labours, to find that they had +terminated so happily. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +INSPECTION OF THE CHANNEL FROM THE LAKE TO THE OCEAN. +</H4> + +<P> +Further exertion on the part of the men being out of the question, I +determined to remain no longer on the coast than to enable me to trace +the channel to its actual junction with the sea, and to ascertain the +features of the coast at that important point. I was reluctant to +exhaust the strength of the men in dragging the boat over the +numberless flats that were before us, and made up my mind to walk along +the shore until I should gain the outlet. I at length arranged that +M'Leay, I, and Fraser, should start on this excursion, at the earliest +dawn, leaving Harris and Hopkinson in charge of the camp; for as we +were to go towards the position of the natives, I thought it improbable +they would attack the camp without my being instantly aware of it. +</P> + +<P> +We had, as I have said, intended starting at the earliest dawn, but the +night was so clear and refreshing, and the moon so bright that we +determined to avail ourselves of both, and accordingly left the tents +at 3 a.m. I directed Harris to strike them at 8, and to have every +thing in readiness for our departure at that hour. We then commenced +our excursion, and I led my companions rapidly along the shore of +Encounter Bay, after crossing the sand-hills about a mile below the +camp. After a hasty and distressing walk of about seven miles, we found +that the sand-hills terminated, and a low beach spread before us. The +day was just breaking, and at the distance of a mile from us we saw the +sand-hill I have already had occasion to notice, and at about a quarter +of a mile from its base, we were checked by the channel; which, as I +rightly conjectured, being stopped in its easterly course by some +rising ground, the tongue of land on which the blacks were posted, +suddenly turns south, and, striking this sand-hill, immediately enters +the sea; and we noticed, in the bight under the rising ground, that the +natives had lit a chain of small fires. This was, most probably, a +detached party watching our movements, as they could, from where they +were posted, see our camp. +</P> + +<P> +At the time we arrived at the end of the channel, the tide had turned, +and was again setting in. The entrance appeared to me to be somewhat +less than a quarter of a mile in breadth. Under the sand-hill on the +off side, the water is deep and the current strong. No doubt, at high +tide, a part of the low beach we had traversed is covered. The mouth of +the channel is defended by a double line of breakers, amidst which, it +would be dangerous to venture, except in calm and summer weather; and +the line of foam is unbroken from one end of Encounter Bay to the +other. Thus were our fears of the impracticability and inutility of the +channel of communication between the lake and the ocean confirmed. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS OF THE RETURN. +</H4> + +<P> +I would fain have lingered on my way, to examine, as far as +circumstances would permit, the beautiful country between the lake and +the ranges; and it was with heart-felt sorrow that I yielded to +necessity. My men were indeed very weak from poverty of diet and from +great bodily fatigue. Hopkinson, Mulholland, and Macnamee were +miserably reduced. The two former, especially, had exerted themselves +beyond their strength, and although I am confident they would have +obeyed my orders to the last, I did not feel myself justified, +considering the gigantic task we had before us, to impose additional +labour upon them. +</P> + +<P> +It will be borne in mind that our difficulties were just about to +commence, when those of most other travellers have ceased; and that +instead of being assisted by the stream whose course we had followed, +we had now to contend against the united waters of the eastern ranges, +with diminished strength, and, in some measure, with disappointed +feelings. +</P> + +<P> +Under the most favourable circumstances, it was improbable that the men +would be enabled to pull for many days longer in succession; since they +had not rested upon their oars for a single day, if I except our +passage across the lake, from the moment when we started from the +depot; nor was it possible for me to buoy them up with the hope even of +a momentary cessation from labour. We had calculated the time to which +our supply of provisions would last under the most favourable +circumstances, and it was only in the event of our pulling up against +the current, day after day, the same distance we had compassed with the +current in our favour, that we could hope they would last us as long as +we continued in the Murray. But in the event of floods, or any +unforeseen delay, in was impossible to calculate at what moment we +might be driven to extremity. +</P> + +<P> +Independent of these casualties, there were other circumstances of +peril to be taken into consideration. As I have already observed, I +foresaw great danger in again running through the natives. I had every +reason to believe that many of the tribes with which we had +communicated on apparently friendly terms, regretted having allowed us +to pass unmolested; nor was I at all satisfied as to the treatment we +might receive from them, when unattended by the envoys who had once or +twice controlled their fury. Our best security, therefore, against the +attacks of the natives was celerity of movement; and the men themselves +seemed to be perfectly aware of the consequences of delay. Our +provisions, moreover, being calculated to last to a certain point only, +the slightest accident, the staving-in of the boat, or the rise of the +river, would inevitably be attended with calamity. To think of reducing +our rations of only three quarters of a pound of flour per diem, was +out of the question, or to hope that the men, with less sustenance than +that, would perform the work necessary to ensure their safety, would +have been unreasonable. It was better that our provisions should hold +out to a place from which we might abandon the boat with some prospect +of reaching by an effort a stock station, or the plain on which Robert +Harris was to await our return, than that they should be consumed +before the half of our homeward journey should be accomplished. Delay, +therefore, under our circumstances, would have been imprudent and +unjustifiable. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +PATIENCE OF THE MEN—RE-ENTER THE MURRAY. +</H4> + +<P> +On the other hand, it was sufficiently evident to me, that the men were +too much exhausted to perform the task that was before them without +assistance, and that it would be necessary both for M'Leay and myself, +to take our share of labour at the oars. The cheerfulness and +satisfaction that my young friend evinced at the opportunity that was +thus afforded him of making himself useful, and of relieving those +under him from some portion of their toil, at the same time that they +increased my sincere esteem for him, were nothing more than what I +expected from one who had endeavoured by every means in his power to +contribute to the success of that enterprise upon which he had +embarked. But although I have said thus much of the exhausted +condition of the men,—and ere these pages are concluded my readers +will feel satisfied as to the truth of my statement—I would by no +means be understood to say that they flagged for a moment, or that +a single murmur escaped them. No reluctance was visible, no complaint +was heard, but there was that in their aspect and appearance which +they could not hide, and which I could not mistake. My object in +dwelling so long upon this subject has been to point out our situation +and our feelings when we re-entered the Murray. The only circumstance +that appeared to be in our favour was the prevalence of the south-west +wind, by which I hoped we should be assisted in running up the first +broad reaches of that river. I could not but acknowledge the bounty +of that Providence, which had favoured us in our passage across +the lake, and I was led to hope that its merciful superintendance +would protect us from evil, and would silently direct us where human +foresight and prudence failed. We re-entered the river on the 13th +under as fair prospects as we would have desired. The gale which had +blown with such violence in the morning gradually abated, and a steady +breeze enabled us to pass our first encampment by availing ourselves +of it as long as day light continued. Both the valley and the river +showed to advantage as we approached them, and the scenery upon our +left (the proper right bank of the Murray) was really beautiful. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap07"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER VII. +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Valley of the Murray—Its character and capabilities—Laborious +progress up the river—Accident to the boat—Perilous collision with +the natives—Turbid current of the Rufus—Passage of the +Rapids—Assisted by the natives—Dangerous intercourse with +them—Re-enter the Morumbidgee—Verdant condition of its +banks—Nocturnal encounter with the natives—Interesting manifestation +of feeling in one family—Reach the spot where the party had embarked +on the river—Men begin to fail entirely—Determine to send two men +forward for relief—Their return—Excursion on horseback—Reach +Pondebadgery Plain, and meet the supplies from the colony—Cannibalism +of the natives—Return to Sydney—Concluding remarks. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +VALLEY OF THE MURRAY. +</H4> + +<P> +The valley of the Murray, at its entrance, cannot be less than four +miles in breadth. The river does not occupy the centre but inclines to +either side, according to its windings, and thus the flats are of +greater or less extent, according to the distance of the river from the +base of the hills. It is to be remarked, that the bottom of the valley +is extremely level, and extensively covered with reeds. From the latter +circumstance, one would be led to infer that these flats are subject to +overflow, and no doubt can exist as to the fact of their being, at +least partially, if not wholly, under water at times. A country in a +state of nature is, however, so different from one in a state of +cultivation, that it is hazardous to give an opinion as to its +practical availableness, if I may use such a term. I should, +undoubtedly, say the marshes of the Macquarie were frequently covered +with water, and that they were wholly unfit for any one purpose +whatever. It is evident from the marks of the reeds upon the banks, +that the flood covers them occasionally to the depth of three feet, and +the reeds are so densely embodied and so close to the river side that +the natives cannot walk along it. The reeds are the broad flag-reed +(arundo phragmatis), and grow on a stiff earthy loam, without any +accompanying vegetation; indeed, they form so solid a mass that the sun +cannot penetrate to the ground to nourish vegetation. On the other +hand, the valley of the Murray, though covered with reeds in most +places, is not so in all. There is no mark upon the reeds by which to +judge as to the height of inundation, neither are they of the same kind +as those which cover the marshes of the Macquarie. They are the species +of round reed of which the South-sea islanders make their arrows, and +stand sufficiently open, not only to allow of a passage through, but +for the abundant growth of grass among them. Still, I have no doubt +that parts of the valley are subject to flood; but, as I have already +remarked, I do not know whether these parts are either deeply or +frequently covered. Rain must fall simultaneously in the S.E. angle of +the island in the inter-tropical regions, and at the heads of all the +tributaries of the main stream, ere its effects can be felt in the +lower parts of the Murray. If the valley of the Murray is not subject +to flood, it has only recently gained a height above the influence of +the river, and still retains all the character of flooded land. In +either case, however, it contains land that is of the very richest +kind—soil that is the pure accumulation of vegetable matter, and is as +black as ebony. If its hundreds of thousands of acres were practically +available, I should not hesitate to pronounce it one of the richest +spots of equal extent on earth, and highly favoured in other respects. +How far it is available remains to be proved; and an opinion upon +either side would be hazardous, although that of its liability to flood +would, most probably, be nearest to truth. It is, however, certain that +any part of the valley would require much labour before it could be +brought under cultivation, and that even its most available spots would +require almost as much trouble to clear them as the forest tract, for +nothing is more difficult to destroy than reeds. Breaking the sod +would, naturally, raise the level of the ground, and lateral drains +would, most probably, carry off all floods, but then the latter, at +least, is the operation of an advanced stage of husbandry only. I +would, however, observe that there are many parts of the valley +decidedly above the reach of flood. I have, in the above observations, +been particularly alluding to the lowest and broadest portions of it. I +trust I shall be understood as not wishing to over-rate this discovery +on the one hand, or on the other, to include its whole extent in one +sweeping clause of condemnation. +</P> + +<P> +On the 14th, the wind still continued to blow fresh from the N.W. It +moderated at noon, and assisted us beyond measure. We passed our first +encampment, but did not see any natives. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CORDIALITY OF THE NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +On the 15th, the wind was variable at daylight, and a dense fog was on +the river. As the sun rose, it was dissipated and a light breeze sprung +up from W.S.W. We ran up the stream with a free sheet for six hours, +when we stopped for a short time to get the kettle boiled. Four natives +joined us, but with the exception of the lowest tribe upon the right +bank, we had not seen any number. We were extremely liberal to this +tribe, in consequence of the satisfaction they evinced at our return. +We had alarmed them much on our passage down the river by firing at a +snake that was swimming across it. We, at first, attempted to kill it +with the boat-hook, but the animal dived at our approach, and appeared +again at a considerable distance. Another such dive would have ensured +his escape, but a shot effectually checked him, and as the natives +evinced considerable alarm, we held him up, to show them the object of +our proceedings. On our return, they seemed to have forgotten their +fright, and received us with every demonstration of joy. The different +receptions we met with from different tribes are difficult to be +accounted for. +</P> + +<P> +The country appeared to rise before us, and looked more hilly to the +N.W. than I had supposed it to be. Several fine valleys branched off +from the main one to the westward, and, however barren the heights that +confined them were, I am inclined to think, that the distant interior +is fertile. The marks of kangaroos were numerous, and the absence of +the natives would indicate that they have other and better means of +subsisting in the back country than what the river affords. +</P> + +<P> +In the evening, we again ran on for two hours and a half, and reached +the first of the cliffs. +</P> + +<P> +On the 16th, we were again fortunate in the wind, and pressed up the +river as long as day-light continued. At the termination of our +journey, we found ourselves a day's journey in advance. This inspirited +the men, and they began to forget the labours they had gone through, as +well as those that were before them. +</P> + +<P> +On the 17th, we again commenced pulling, the wind being at north, and +contrary. It did not, however, remain in that quarter long, but backed +at noon to the S.W., so that we were enabled to make a good day's +journey, and rather gained than lost ground. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +REMARKABLE CLIFF—GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. +</H4> + +<P> +Having left the undulating hills, at the mouth of the valley behind us, +we passed cliff after cliff of fossil formation: they had a uniform +appearance as to the substance of which they were composed, and varied +but little in colour. Having already examined them, we thought it +unnecessary to give them any further special attention, since it was +improbable we should find anything new. In turning an angle of the +river, however, a broad reach stretched away before us. An alluvial +flat extended to our left, and a high line of cliffs, that differed in +no visible respect from those we had already passed, rose over the +opposite side of the river. The cliffs faced the W.N.W., and as the sun +declined, his beams struck full upon them. As we shot past, we were +quite dazzled with the burst of light that flashed upon us, and which +gave to the whole face of the cliff the appearance of a splendid +mirror. The effect was of course momentary; for as soon as we had +passed the angle of refraction, there was nothing unusual in its +appearance. On a nearer approach, however, it appeared again as if +studded with stars. We had already determined on examining it more +closely, and this second peculiarity still further excited our +curiosity. On landing, we found the whole cliff to be a mass of +selenite, in which the various shells already noticed were plentifully +embedded, as in ice. The features of the cliff differed from any we had +previously remarked. Large masses, or blocks of square or oblong shape, +had fallen to its base, and its surface was hard, whereas the face of +the majority of the other cliffs was soft from the effect of the +atmosphere; and the rock was entirely free from every other substance, +excepting the shells of which it was composed. We of course collected +some good specimens, although they added very considerably to the +weight of our cargo. +</P> + +<P> +The morning of the 18th was calm and cloudless. The wind, of which +there was but little, came from the north, and was as usual warm. We +availed ourselves of a favourable spot to haul our boat on shore under +one of the cliffs upon the proper left of the river, and cleaned her +well both inside and out. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +LABORIOUS ASCENT OF THE BOAT. +</H4> + +<P> +The breezes that had so much assisted as from the lake upwards, had now +lost their influence, or failed to reach to the distance we had gained. +Calms succeeded them, and obliged us to labour continually at the oars. +We lost ground fast, and it was astonishing to remark how soon the +men's spirits drooped again under their first efforts. They fancied the +boat pulled heavily, and that her bottom was foul; but such was not the +case. The current was not so strong as when we passed down, since the +river had evidently fallen more than a foot, and was so shallow in +several places, that we were obliged to haul the boat over them. On +these occasions we were necessarily obliged to get out of her into the +water, and had afterwards to sit still and to allow the sun to dry our +clothes upon us. The unemployed consequently envied those at the oars, +as they sat shivering in their dripping clothes. I was aware that it +was more from imagination than reality, that the men fancied the boat +was unusually heavy, but I hesitated not in humouring them, and rather +entered into their ideas than otherwise, and endeavoured to persuade +them that she pulled the lighter for the cleaning we gave her. +</P> + +<P> +A tribe of natives joined us, and we had the additional trouble of +guarding our stores. They were, however, very quiet, and as we had +broken up our casks, on leaving the coast, we were enabled to be +liberal in our presents of iron hoop, which they eagerly received. We +calculated that we should reach the principal junction in about fifteen +days from this place. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +NATIVE BURIAL-PLACE. +</H4> + +<P> +The natives left us to pursue our solitary journey as soon as the boat +was reloaded. Not one of them had the curiosity to follow us, nor did +they appear to think it necessary that we should be attended by envoys. +We stopped for the night upon the left bank; and close to a +burial-ground that differed from any I had ever seen. It must have been +used many years, from the number of bones that were found in the bank, +but there were no other indications of such a place either by mounds or +by marks on the trees. The fact, therefore, is a singular one. I have +thought that some battle might have been fought near the place, but I +can hardly think one of their battles could have been so destructive. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +IMPEDED BY SHOALS. +</H4> + +<P> +We had now only to make the best of our journey, rising at dawn, and +pulling to seven and often to nine o'clock. I allowed the men an hour +from half-past eleven to half-past twelve, to take their bread and +water. This was our only fare, if I except an occasional wild duck; but +these birds were extremely difficult to kill, and it cost us so much +time, that we seldom endeavoured to procure any. Our dogs had been of +no great use, and were now too weak to have run after anything if they +had seen either kangaroos or emus; and for the fish, the men loathed +them, and were either too indifferent or too much fatigued to set the +night-lines. Shoals frequently impeded us as we proceeded up the river, +and we passed some rapids that called for our whole strength to stem. A +light wind assisted us on two or three of these occasions, and I never +failed hoisting the sail at every fitting opportunity. In some parts +the river was extremely shallow, and the sand-banks of amazing size; +and the annoyance of dragging the boat over these occasional bars, was +very great. We passed several tribes of blacks on the 19th and 20th; +but did not stop to communicate with them. +</P> + +<P> +I believe I have already mentioned that shortly after we first entered +the Murray, flocks of a new paroquet passed over our heads, apparently +emigrating to the N.W. They always kept too high to be fired at, but on +our return, hereabouts, we succeeded in killing one. It made a good +addition to our scanty stock of subjects of natural history. It is +impossible to conceive how few of the feathered tribe frequent these +distant and lonely regions. The common white cockatoo is the most +numerous, and there are also a few pigeons; but other birds descend +only for water, and are soon again upon the wing. Our botanical +specimens were as scanty as our zoological, indeed the expedition may, +as regards these two particulars, almost be said to have been +unproductive. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +COMPILATION OF THE CHART. +</H4> + +<P> +When we came down the river, I thought it advisable to lay its course +down as precisely as circumstances would permit: for for this purpose I +had a large compass always before me, and a sheet of foolscap paper. As +soon as we passed an angle of the river, I took the bearings of the +reach before us, and as we proceeded down it, marked off the +description of country, and any remarkable feature. The consequence +was, that I laid down every bend of the Murray River, from the +Morumbidgee downwards. Its creeks, its tributaries, its flats, its +valleys, and its cliffs, and, as far as I possibly could do, the nature +of the distant interior. This chart was, of course, erroneous in many +particulars, since I had to judge the length of the reaches of the +river, and the extent of its angles, but I corrected it on the scale of +the miles of latitude we made during the day, which brought out an +approximate truth at all events. The hurried nature of our journey +would not allow me to do more; and it will be remembered that my +observations were all siderial, by reason that the sextant would not +embrace the sun in his almost vertical position at noon. Admitting, +however, the imperfection of this chart, it was of inconceivable value +and comfort to us on our return, for, by a reference to it, we +discovered our place upon the river, and our distance from our several +encampments. And we should often have stopped short of them had not the +chart shown us that a few reaches more would bring us to the desired +spots. It cheered the men to know where they were, and gave them +conversation. To myself it was very satisfactory, as it enabled me to +prepare for our meetings with the larger tribes, and to steer clear of +obstacles in the more difficult navigation of some parts of the stream. +</P> + +<P> +On the 21st, by dint of great labour we reached our camp of the 2nd +February, from which it will be remembered the Murray took up a +southerly course, and from which we likewise obtained a first view of +the coast ranges. The journey to the sea and back again, had +consequently occupied us twenty days. From this point we turned our +boat's head homewards; we made it, therefore, a fixed position among +the stages into which we divided our journey. Our attention was now +directed to the junction of the principal tributary, which we hoped to +reach in twelve days, and anticipated a close to our labours on the +Murray in eight days more from that stage to the Morumbidgee. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CURRENT OF THE MURRAY. +</H4> + +<P> +The current in the Murray from the lake, to within a short distance of +this singular turn in it, is weak, since its bed is almost on a level +with the lake. The channel, which, at the termination, is somewhat more +than the third of a mile across, gradually diminishes in breadth, as +the interior is gained, but is nowhere under 300 yards; while its depth +averages from eighteen to thirty feet, within a foot of the very bank. +The river might, therefore, be navigated by boats of considerable +burden, if the lake admitted of the same facility; but I am decidedly +of opinion, that the latter is generally shallow, and that it will, in +the course of years, be filled up by depositions. It is not, however, +an estuary in any sense of the word, since no part of it is exposed at +low water, excepting the flats in the channel, and the flat between the +lake and the sea. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ACCIDENT TO THE BOAT. +</H4> + +<P> +On the 23rd, we stove the boat in for the first time. I had all along +anticipated such an accident, from the difficulty of avoiding +obstacles, in consequence of the turbid state of the river. Fortunately +the boat struck a rotten log. The piece remained in her side, and +prevented her filling, which she must, otherwise, inevitably have done, +ere we could have reached the shore. As it was, however, we escaped +with a little damage to the lower bags of flour only. She was hauled up +on a sand bank, and Clayton repaired her in less than two hours, when +we reloaded her and pursued our journey. It was impossible to have been +more cautious than we were, for I was satisfied as to the fate that +would have overtaken the whole of us in the event of our losing the +boat, and was proportionably vigilant. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +MOLESTED BY THE NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +At half-past five we came to an island, which looked so inviting, and +so quiet, that I determined to land and sleep upon it. We consequently, +ran the boat into a little recess, or bay, and pitched the tents; and I +anticipated a respite from the presence of any natives, as did the men, +who were rejoiced at my having taken up so snug a berth. It happened, +however, that a little after sunset, a flight of the new paroquets +perched in the lofty trees that grew on the island, to roost; when we +immediately commenced the work of death, and succeeded in killing eight +or ten. The reports of our guns were heard by some natives up the +river, and several came over to us. Although I was annoyed at their +having discovered our retreat, they were too few to be troublesome. +During the night, however, they were joined by fresh numbers, amounting +in all to about eighty, and they were so clamorous, that it was +impossible to sleep. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +NATIVES BECOME TROUBLESOME. +</H4> + +<P> +As the morning broke, Hopkinson came to inform me that it was in vain +that the guard endeavoured to prevent them from handling every thing, +and from closing in round our camp. I went out, and from what I saw I +thought it advisable to double the sentries. M'Leay, who was really +tired, being unable to close his eyes amid such a din, got up in +ill-humour, and went to see into the cause, and to check it if he +could. This, however, was impossible. One man was particularly forward +and insolent, at whom M'Leay, rather imprudently, threw a piece of +dirt. The savage returned the compliment with as much good will as it +had been given, and appeared quite prepared to act on the offensive. At +this critical moment my servant came to the tent in which I was washing +myself, and stated his fears that we should soon come to blows, as the +natives showed every disposition to resist us. On learning what had +passed between M'Leay and the savage, I pretended to be equally angry +with both, and with some difficulty forced the greater part of the +blacks away from the tents. I then directed the men to gather together +all the minor articles in the first instance, and then to strike the +tents; and, in order to check the natives, I drew a line round the +camp, over which I intimated to them they should not pass. Observing, I +suppose, that we were on our guard, and that I, whom they well knew to +be the chief, was really angry, they crept away one by one, until the +island was almost deserted by them. Why they did not attack us, I know +not, for they had certainly every disposition to do so, and had their +shorter weapons with them, which, in so confined a space as that on +which we were, would have been more fatal than their spears. +</P> + +<P> +They left us, however; and a flight of red-crested cockatoos happening +to settle on a plain near the river, I crossed in the boat in order to +shoot one. The plain was upon the proper left bank of the Murray. The +natives had passed over to the right. As the one channel was too +shallow for the boat, when we again pursued our journey we were obliged +to pull round to the left side of the island. A little above it the +river makes a bend to the left, and the angle at this bend was occupied +by a large shoal, one point of which rested on the upper part of the +island, and the other touched the proper right bank of the river. Thus +a narrow channel, (not broader indeed than was necessary for the play +of our oars,) alone remained for us to pass up against a strong +current. On turning round the lower part of the island, we observed +that the natives occupied the whole extent of the shoal, and speckled +it over like skirmishers. Many of them had their spears, and their +attention was evidently directed to us.—As we neared the shoal, the +most forward of them pressed close to the edge of the deep water, so +much so that our oars struck their legs. Still this did not induce them +to retire. I kept my eye on an elderly man who stood one of the most +forward, and who motioned to us several times to stop, and at length +threw the weapon he carried at the boat. I immediately jumped up and +pointed my gun at him to his great apparent alarm. Whether the natives +hoped to intimidate us by a show of numbers, or what immediate object +they had in view, it is difficult to say; though it was most probably +to seize a fitting opportunity to attack us. Seeing, I suppose, that we +were not to be checked, they crossed from the shoal to the proper right +bank of the river, and disappeared among the reeds that lined it. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +TREACHERY OF THE NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +Shortly after this, eight of the women, whom we had not before noticed, +came down to the water side, and gave us the most pressing invitation +to land. Indeed they played their part uncommonly well, and tried for +some time to allure us by the most unequivocal manifestations of love. +Hopkinson however who always had his eyes about him, observed the +spears of the men among the reeds. They kept abreast of us as we pulled +up the stream, and, no doubt, were anticipating our inability to resist +the temptations they had thrown in our way. I was really provoked at +their barefaced treachery, and should most undoubtedly have attacked +them, had they not precipitately retreated on being warned by the women +that I was arming my men, which I had only now done upon seeing such +strong manifestations of danger. M'Leay set the example of coolness on +this occasion; and I had some doubts whether I was justified in +allowing the natives to escape with impunity, considering that if they +had wounded any one of us the most melancholy and fatal results would +have ensued. +</P> + +<P> +We did not see anything more of the blacks during the rest of the day, +but the repeated indications of hostility we perceived as we approached +the Darling, made me apprehensive as to the reception we should meet +from its numerous population; and I was sorry to observe that the men +anticipated danger in passing that promising junction. +</P> + +<P> +Having left the sea breezes behind us, the weather had become +oppressive; and as the current was stronger, and rapids more numerous, +our labour was proportionably increased. We perspired to an astonishing +degree, and gave up our oars after our turn at them, with shirts and +clothes as wet as if we had been in the water. Indeed Mulholland and +Hopkinson, who worked hard, poured a considerable quantity of +perspiration from their shoes after their task. The evil of this was +that we were always chilled after rowing, and, of course, suffered more +than we should otherwise have done. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +RE-PASS THE LINDESAY. +</H4> + +<P> +On the 25th we passed the last of the cliffs composing the great fossil +bed through which the Murray flows, and entered that low country +already described as being immediately above it. On a more attentive +examination of the distant interior, my opinion as to its flooded +origin was confirmed, more especially in reference to the country to +the S.E. On the 30th we passed the mouth of the Lindesay, and from the +summit of the sand hills to the north of the Murray overlooked the flat +country, through which I conclude it must run, from the line of fires +we observed amid the trees, and most probably upon its banks. +</P> + +<P> +We did not fall in with the natives in such numbers as when we passed +down to the coast: still they were in sufficient bodies to be +troublesome. It would, however, appear that the tribes do not generally +frequent the river. They must have a better country back from it, and +most probably linger amongst the lagoons and creeks where food is more +abundant. The fact is evident from the want of huts upon the banks of +the Murray, and the narrowness of the paths along its margin. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +RE-PASSED THE RUFUS. +</H4> + +<P> +We experienced the most oppressive heat about this time. Calms +generally prevailed, and about 3 p.m. the sun's rays fell upon us with +intense effect. The waters of the Murray continued extremely muddy, a +circumstance we discovered to be owing to the turbid current of the +Rufus, which we passed on the 1st of March. It is, really, singular +whence this little stream originates. It will be remembered that I +concluded it must have been swollen by rains when we first saw it; yet, +after an absence of more than three weeks we found it discharging its +waters as muddy as ever into the main stream; and that, too, in such +quantities as to discolour its waters to the very lake. The reader will +have some idea of the force of the current in both, when I assure him +that for nearly fifty yards below the mouth of the Rufus, the waters of +the Murray preserve their transparency, and the line between them and +the turbid waters of its tributary was as distinctly marked as if drawn +by a pencil. Indeed, the higher we advanced, the more did we feel the +strength of the current, against which we had to pull. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DIFFICULTIES AT THE RAPIDS. +</H4> + +<P> +A little below the Lindesay, a rapid occurs. It was with the utmost +difficulty that we stemmed it with the four oars upon the boat, and the +exertion of our whole strength. We remained, at one time, perfectly +stationary, the force we employed and that of the current being equal. +We at length ran up the stream obliquely; but it was evident the men +were not adequate to such exertion for any length of time. We pulled +that day for eleven successive hours, in order to avoid a tribe of +natives who followed us. Hopkinson and Fraser fell asleep at their +oars, and even the heavy Clayton appeared to labour. +</P> + +<P> +We again occupied our camp under the first remarkable cliffs of the +Murray, a description of which has been given in page 128 of this work. +[GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATION.] Their summit, as I have already remarked +forms a table land of some elevation. From it the distant interior to +the S.S.E. appears very depressed; that to the north undulates more. In +neither quarter, however, does any bright foliage meet the eye, to tell +that a better soil is under it; but a dark and gloomy vegetation +occupies both the near and distant ground, in proof that the sandy +sterile tracts, succeeding the river deposits, stretch far away without +a change. +</P> + +<P> +A little above our camp of the 28th of January, we fell in with a large +tribe of natives, whose anxiety to detain us was remarkable. The wind, +however, which, from the time we lost the sea breezes, had hung to the +S.E., had changed to the S.W., and we were eagerly availing ourselves +of it. It will not be supposed we stopped even for a moment. In truth +we pressed on with great success, and did not land to sleep until nine +o'clock. As long as the wind blew from the S.W., the days were cool, +and the sky overcast even so much so as to threaten rain. +</P> + +<P> +The least circumstance, in our critical situation, naturally raised my +apprehensions, and I feared the river would be swollen in the event of +any heavy rains in the hilly country; I hoped, however, we should gain +the Morumbidgee before such a calamity should happen to us, and it +became my object to press for that river without delay. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +OBSTACLES TO THE NAVIGATION—DANGEROUS RAPIDS. +</H4> + +<P> +Although we had met with frequent rapids in our progress upwards, they +had not been of a serious kind, nor such as would affect the navigation +of the river. The first direct obstacle of this kind occurs a little +above a small tributary that falls into the Murray from the north, +between the Rufus and the cliffs we have alluded to. At this place a +reef of coarse grit contracts the channel of the river. No force we +could have exerted with the oars would have taken us up this rapid; but +we accomplished the task easily by means of a rope which we hauled +upon, on the same principle that barges are dragged by horses along the +canals. +</P> + +<P> +As we neared the junction of the two main streams, the country, on both +sides of the river, became low, and its general appearance confirmed +the opinion I have already given as to its flooded origin. The clouds +that obscured the sky, and had threatened to burst for some time, at +length gave way, and we experienced two or three days of heavy rain. In +the midst of it we passed the second stage of our journey, and found +the spot lately so crowded with inhabitants totally deserted. A little +above it we surprised a small tribe in a temporary shelter; but neither +our offers nor presents could prevail on any of them to expose +themselves to the torrent that was falling. They sat shivering in their +bark huts in evident astonishment at our indifference. We threw them +some trifling presents and were glad to proceed unattended by any of +them. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +PERILOUS ASCENT OF THE RAPIDS. +</H4> + +<P> +It will be remembered that in passing down the river, the boat was +placed in some danger in descending a rapid before we reached the +junction of the Murray with the stream supposed by me to be the +Darling. We were now gradually approaching the rapid, nor did I well +know how we should surmount such an obstacle. Strength to pull up it we +had not, and I feared our ropes would not be long enough to reach to +the shore over some of the rocks, since it descended in minor +declivities to a considerable distance below the principal rapid, in +the centre of which the boat had struck. We reached the commencement of +these rapids on the 6th, and ascended the first by means of ropes, +which were hauled upon by three of the men from the bank; and, as the +day was pretty far advanced, we stopped a little above it, that we +might attempt the principal rapid before we should be exhausted by +previous exertion. It was fortunate that we took such a precaution. The +morning of the 7th proved extremely dark, and much rain fell. We +commenced our journey in the midst of it, and soon gained the tail of +the rapid. Our attempt to pull up it completely failed. The boat, as +soon as she entered the ripple, spun round like a toy, and away we went +with the stream. As I had anticipated, our ropes were too short; and it +only remained for us to get into the water, and haul the boat up by +main force. We managed pretty well at first, and drew her alongside a +rock to rest a little. We then recommenced our efforts, and had got +into the middle of the channel. We were up to our armpits in the water, +and only kept our position by means of rocks beside us. The rain was +falling, as if we were in a tropical shower, and the force of the +current was such, that if we had relaxed for an instant, we should have +lost all the ground we had gained. Just at this moment, however, +without our being aware of their approach, a large tribe of natives, +with their spears, lined the bank, and took us most completely by +surprise. At no time during this anxious journey were we ever so +completely in their power, or in so defenceless a situation. It rained +so hard, that our firelocks would have been of no use, and had they +attacked us, we must necessarily have been slaughtered without +committing the least execution upon them. Nothing, therefore, remained +for us but to continue our exertions. It required only one strong +effort to get the boat into still water for a time, but that effort was +beyond our strength, and we stood in the stream, powerless and +exhausted. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ASSISTED BY THE NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +The natives, in the meanwhile, resting on their spears, watched us with +earnest attention. One of them, who was sitting close to the water, at +length called to us, and we immediately recognised the deep voice of +him to whose singular interference we were indebted for our escape on +the 23rd of January. I desired Hopkinson to swim over to him, and to +explain that we wanted assistance. This was given without hesitation; +and we at length got under the lea of the rock, which I have already +described as being in the centre of the river. The natives launched +their bark canoes, the only frail means they possess of crossing the +rivers with their children. These canoes are of the simplest +construction and rudest materials, being formed of an oblong piece of +bark, the ends of which are stuffed with clay, so as to render them +impervious to the water. With several of these they now paddled round +us with the greatest care, making their spears, about ten feet in +length,(which they use at once as poles and paddles,) bend nearly +double in the water. We had still the most difficult part of the rapid +to ascend, where the rush of water was the strongest, and where the +decline of the bed almost amounted to a fall. Here the blacks could be +of no use to us. No man could stem the current, supposing it to have +been shallow at the place, but it was on the contrary extremely deep. +Remaining myself in the boat, I directed all the men to land, after we +had crossed the stream, upon a large rock that formed the left buttress +as it were to this sluice, and, fastening the rope to the mast instead +of her head, they pulled upon it. The unexpected rapidity with which +the boat shot up the passage astonished me, and filled the natives with +wonder, who testified their admiration of so dextrous a manoeuvre, by a +loud shout. +</P> + +<P> +It will, no doubt, have struck the reader as something very remarkable, +that the same influential savage to whom we had already been indebted, +should have been present on this occasion, and at a moment when we so +much needed his assistance. Having surmounted our difficulties, we took +leave of this remarkable man, and pursued our journey up the river. +</P> + +<P> +It may be imagined we did not proceed very far; the fact was, we only +pushed forward to get rid of the natives, for, however pacific, they +were always troublesome, and we were seldom fitted for a trial of +temper after the labours of the day were concluded. The men had various +occupations in which, when the natives were present, they were +constantly interrupted, and whenever the larger tribes slept near us, +the utmost vigilance was necessary on the part of the night-guard, +which was regularly mounted as soon as the tents were pitched. We had +had little else than our flour to subsist on. Hopkinson and Harris +endeavoured to supply M'Leay and myself with a wild fowl occasionally, +but for themselves, and the other men, nothing could be procured to +render their meal more palatable. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +GOOD CONDUCT OF THE MEN. +</H4> + +<P> +I have omitted to mention one remarkable trait of the good disposition +of all the men while on the coast. Our sugar had held out to that +point; but it appeared, when we examined the stores, that six pounds +alone remained in the cask. This the men positively refused to touch. +They said that, divided, it would benefit nobody; that they hoped +M'Leay and I would use it, that it would last us for some time, and +that they were better able to submit to privations than we were. The +feeling did them infinite credit, and the circumstance is not forgotten +by me. The little supply the kindness of our men left to us was, +however, soon exhausted, and poor M'Leay preferred pure water to the +bitter draught that remained. I have been some times unable to refrain +from smiling, as I watched the distorted countenances of my humble +companions while drinking their tea and eating their damper. +</P> + +<P> +The ducks and swans, seen in such myriads on the lake, seldom appeared +on the river, in the first stages of our journey homewards. About the +time of which I am writing, however, a few swans occasionally flew over +our heads at night, and their silvery note was musically sweet. +</P> + +<P> +From the 10th to the 15th, nothing of moment occurred: we pulled +regularly from day-light to dark, not less to avoid the natives than to +shorten our journey. Yet, notwithstanding that we moved at an hour when +the natives seldom stir, we were rarely without a party of them, who +followed us in spite of our efforts to tire them out. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +MOLESTED BY NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +On the 15th, we had about 150 at our camp. Many of them were extremely +noisy, and the whole of them very restless. They lay down close to the +tents, or around our fire. I entertained some suspicion of them, and +when they were apparently asleep, I watched them narrowly. Macnamee was +walking up and down with his firelock, and every time he turned his +back, one of the natives rose gently up and poised his spear at him, +and as soon as he thought Macnamee was about to turn, he dropped as +quietly into his place. When I say the native got up, I do not mean +that he stood up, but that he raised himself sufficiently for the +purpose he had in view. His spear would not, therefore, have gone with +much force, but I determined it should not quit his hand, for had I +observed any actual attempt to throw it, I should unquestionably have +shot him dead upon the spot. The whole of the natives were awake, and +it surprised me they did not attempt to plunder us. They rose with the +earliest dawn, and crowded round the tents without any hesitation. We, +consequently, thought it prudent to start as soon as we had breakfasted. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +FRASER IN DANGER. +</H4> + +<P> +We had all of us got into the boat, when Fraser remembered he had left +his powder-horn on shore. In getting out to fetch it, he had to push +through the natives. On his return, when his back was towards them, +several natives lifted their spears together, and I was so apprehensive +they would have transfixed him, that I called out before I seized my +gun; on which they lowered their weapons and ran away. The disposition +to commit personal violence was evident from these repeated acts of +treachery; and we should doubtless have suffered from it on some +occasion or other, had we not been constantly on the alert. +</P> + +<P> +We had been drawing nearer the Morumbidgee every day. This was the last +tribe we saw on the Murray; and the following afternoon, to our great +joy, we quitted it and turned our boat into the gloomy and narrow +channel of its tributary. Our feelings were almost as strong when we +re-entered it, as they had been when we were launched from it into that +river, on whose waters we had continued for upwards of fifty-five days; +during which period, including the sweeps and bends it made, we could +not have travelled less than 1500 miles. +</P> + +<P> +Our provisions were now running very short; we had, however, "broken +the neck of our journey," as the men said, and we looked anxiously to +gaining the depot; for we were not without hopes that Robert Harris +would have pushed forward to it with his supplies. We were quite +puzzled on entering the Morumbidgee, how to navigate its diminutive +bends and its encumbered channel. I thought poles would have been more +convenient than oars; we therefore stopped at an earlier hour than +usual to cut some. Calling to mind the robbery practised on us shortly +after we left the depot, my mind became uneasy as to Robert Harris's +safety, since I thought it probable, from the sulky disposition of the +natives who had visited us there, that he might have been attacked. +Thus, when my apprehensions on our own account had partly ceased, my +fears became excited with regard to him and his party. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +RE-ENTER THE MORUMBIDGEE. +</H4> + +<P> +The country, to a considerable distance from the junction on either +side the Morumbidgee, is not subject to inundation. Wherever we landed +upon its banks, we found the calistemma in full flower, and in the +richest profusion. There was, also, an abundance of grass, where before +there had been no signs of vegetation, and those spots which we had +condemned as barren were now clothed with a green and luxuriant carpet. +So difficult is it to judge of a country on a partial and hurried +survey, and so differently does it appear at different periods. I was +rejoiced to find that the rains had not swollen the river, for I was +apprehensive that heavy falls had taken place in the mountains, and was +unprepared for so much good fortune. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +FEAST ON A SWAN. +</H4> + +<P> +The poles we cut were of no great use to us, and we soon laid them +aside, and took to our oars. Fortune seemed to favour us exceedingly. +The men rallied, and we succeeded in killing a good fat swan, that +served as a feast for all. I imagine the absence of mud and weeds of +every kind in the Murray, prevents this bird from frequenting its +waters. +</P> + +<P> +On the 18th, we found ourselves entering the reedy country, through +which we had passed with such doubt and anxiety. Every object elicited +some remark from the men, and I was sorry to find they reckoned with +certainty on seeing Harris at the depot, as I knew they would be +proportionally depressed in spirits if disappointed. However, I +promised Clayton a good repast as soon as we should see him. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +LOSE ONE OF OUR DOGS. +</H4> + +<P> +I had walked out with M'Leay a short distance from the river, and had +taken the dogs. They followed us to the camp on our return to it, but +the moment they saw us enter the tent, they went off to hunt by +themselves. About 10 p.m., one of them, Bob, came to the fire, and +appeared very uneasy; he remained, for a short time, and then went +away. In about an hour, he returned, and after exhibiting the same +restlessness, again withdrew. He returned the third time before morning +dawned, but returned alone. The men on the watch were very stupid not +to have followed him, for, no doubt, he went to his companion, to whom, +most likely, some accident had happened. I tried to make him show, but +could not succeed, and, after a long search, reluctantly pursued our +journey, leaving poor Sailor to his fate. This was the only misfortune +that befell us, and we each of us felt the loss of an animal which had +participated in all our dangers and privations. I more especially +regretted the circumstance for the sake of the gentleman who gave him +to me, and, on account of his superior size and activity. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES. +</H4> + +<P> +With the loss of poor Sailor, our misfortunes re-commenced. I +anticipated some trouble hereabouts, for, having succeeded in their +hardihood once, I knew the natives would again attempt to rob us, and +that we should have some difficulty in keeping them off. As soon as +they found out that we were in the river, they came to us, but left us +at sunset. This was on the 21st. At nightfall, I desired the watch to +keep a good look out, and M'Leay and I went to lie down. We had chosen +an elevated bank for our position, and immediately opposite to us there +was a small space covered with reeds, under blue-gum trees. About 11, +Hopkinson came to the tent to say, that he was sure the blacks were +approaching through the reeds. M'Leay and I got up, and, standing on +the bank, listened attentively. All we heard was the bark of a native +dog apparently, but this was, in fact, a deception on the part of the +blacks. We made no noise, in consequence of which they gradually +approached, and two or three crept behind the trunk of a tree that had +fallen. As I thought they were near enough, George M'Leay, by my +desire, fired a charge of small shot at them. They instantly made a +precipitate retreat; but, in order the more effectually to alarm them, +Hopkinson fired a ball into the reeds, which we distinctly heard +cutting its way through them. All was quiet until about three o'clock, +when a poor wretch who, most probably, had thrown himself on the ground +when the shots were fired, at length mustered courage to get up and +effect his escape. +</P> + +<P> +In the morning, the tribe kept aloof, but endeavoured, by the most +earnest entreaties, and most pitiable howling, to gain our favour; but +I threatened to shoot any that approached, and they consequently kept +at a respectful distance, dogging us from tree to tree. It appeared, +therefore, that they were determined to keep us in view, no doubt, with +the intention of trying what they could do by a second attempt. As they +went along, their numbers increased, and towards evening, they amounted +to a strong tribe. Still they did not venture near us, and only now and +then showed themselves. Our situation at this moment would have been +much more awkward in the event of attack, than when we were in the open +channel of the Murray; because we were quite at the mercy of the +natives if they had closed upon us, and, being directly under the +banks, should have received every spear, while it would have been easy +for them to have kept out of sight in assailing us. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +APPARENT OBSTRUCTION OF THE CHANNEL. +</H4> + +<P> +It was near sunset, the men were tired, and I was looking out for a +convenient place at which to rest, intending to punish these natives if +they provoked me, or annoyed the men. We had not seen any of them for +some time, when Hopkinson, who was standing in the bow of the boat, +informed me that they had thrown boughs across the river to prevent our +passage. I was exceedingly indignant at this, and pushed on, intending +to force the barrier. On our nearer approach, a solitary black was +observed standing close to the river, and abreast of the impediment +which I imagined they had raised to our further progress. I threatened +to shoot this man, and pointed to the branches that stretched right +across the stream. The poor fellow uttered not a word, but, putting his +hand behind him, pulled out a tomahawk from his belt, and held it +towards me, by way of claiming our acquaintance; and any anger was soon +entirely appeased by discovering that the natives had been merely +setting a net across the river which these branches supported. We, +consequently, hung back, until they had drawn it, and then passed on. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +MANOEUVRES OF THE NATIVES TO ROB THE BOAT AT NIGHT. +</H4> + +<P> +The black to whom I had spoken so roughly, cut across a bight of the +river, and walking down to the side of the water with a branch in his +hand, in mark of confidence, presented me with a fishing net. We were +highly pleased at the frank conduct of this black, and a convenient +place offering itself, we landed and pitched our tents. Our friend, who +was about forty, brought his two wives, and a young man, to us: and at +length the other blacks mustered courage to approach; but those who had +followed us from the last camp, kept on the other side of the river. On +pretence of being different families, they separated into small bodies, +and formed a regular cordon round our camp. We foresaw that this was a +manoeuvre, but, in hopes that if I forgave the past they would desist +from further attempts, M'Leay took great pains in conciliating them, +and treated them with great kindness. We gave each family some fire and +same presents, and walked together to them by turns, to show that we +had equal confidence in all. Our friend had posted himself immediately +behind our tents, at twenty yards distance, with his little family, and +kept altogether aloof from the other natives. Having made our round of +visits, and examined the various modes the women had of netting, M'Leay +and I went into our tent. +</P> + +<P> +It happened, fortunately, that my servant, Harris, was the first for +sentry. I told him to keep a watchful eye on the natives, and to call +me if any thing unusual occurred. We had again chosen a lofty bank for +our position; behind us there was a small plain, of about a quarter of +a mile in breadth, backed by a wood. I was almost asleep, when my +servant came to inform me, that the blacks had, with one accord, made a +precipitate retreat, and that not one of them was to be seen at the +fires. I impressed the necessity of attention upon him, and he again +went to his post. Shortly after this, he returned: "Master," said he, +"the natives are coming." I jumped up, and, taking my gun, followed +him, leaving my friend George fast asleep. I would not disturb him, +until necessity required, for he had ever shown himself so devoted to +duty as to deserve every consideration. Harris led me a little way from +the tents, and then stopping, and pointing down the river, said, +"There, sir, don't you see them?" "Not I, indeed, Harris," I replied, +"where do you mean? are you sure you see them?" "Positive, sir," said +he; "stoop and you will see them." I did so, and saw a black mass in an +opening. Convinced that I saw them, I desired Harris to follow me, but +not to fire unless I should give the word. The rascals would not stand +our charge, however, but retreated as we advanced towards them. We then +returned to the tents, and, commending my servant for his vigilance, I +once more threw myself on my bed. I had scarcely lain down five +minutes, when Harris called out, "The blacks are close to me, sir; +shall I fire at them?" "How far are they?" I asked. "Within ten yards, +sir." "Then fire," said I; and immediately he did so. M'Leay and I +jumped up to his assistance. "Well, Harris," said I, "did you kill your +man?" (he is a remarkably good shot.) "No, sir," said he, "I thought +you would repent it, so I fired between the two." "Where were they, +man?" said I. "Close to the boat, sir; and when they heard me, they +swam into the river, and dived as soon as I fired between them." This +account was verified by one of them puffing as he rose below us, over +whose head I fired a shot. Where the other got to I could not tell. +This watchfulness, on our part, however, prevented any further attempts +during the night. +</P> + +<P> +I was much pleased at the coolness of my servant, as well as his +consideration; and relieving him from his post, desired Hopkinson to +take it. I have no doubt that the approach of the natives, in the first +instance, was made with a view to draw us off from the camp, while some +others might rob the boat. If so, it was a good manoeuvre, and might +have succeeded. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +NATIVES DESERT THEIR WEAPONS—INGENUOUS CONDUCT OF A NATIVE. +</H4> + +<P> +In the morning, we found the natives had left all their ponderous +spears at their fires, which were broken up and burnt. We were +surprised to find that our friend had left every thing in like manner +behind him—his spears, his nets, and his tomahawk; but as he had kept +so wholly aloof from the other blacks, I thought it highly improbable +that he had joined them, and the men were of opinion that he had +retreated across the plain into the wood. On looking in that direction +we observed some smoke rising among the trees at a little distance from +the outskirts of the plain, and under an impression that I should find +the native at the fire with his family, I took his spears and tomahawk, +and walked across the plain, unattended into the wood. I had not +entered it more than fifty yards when I saw a group of four natives, +sitting round a small fire. One of them, as I approached, rose up and +met me, and in him I recognised the man for whom I was seeking. When +near enough, I stuck the spears upright into the ground. The poor man +stood thunderstruck; he spoke not, he moved not, neither did he raise +his eyes from the ground. I had kept the tomahawk out of his sight, but +I now produced and offered it to him. He gave a short exclamation as +his eyes caught sight of it, but he remained otherwise silent before +me, and refused to grasp the tomahawk, which accordingly fell to the +ground. I had evidently excited the man's feelings, but it is difficult +to say how he was affected. His manner indicated shame and surprise, +and the sequel will prove that both these feelings must have possessed +him. While we were thus standing together, his two wives came up, to +whom, after pointing to the spears and tomahawk, he said something, +without, however, looking at me; and they both instantly burst into +tears and wept aloud. I was really embarrassed during so unexpected a +scene, and to break it, invited the native to the camp, but I motioned +with my hand, as I had not my gun with me, that I would shoot any other +of the blacks who followed me. He distinctly understood my meaning, and +intimated as distinctly to me that they should not follow us; nor did +they. We were never again molested by them. +</P> + +<P> +I left him then, and, returning to the camp, told M'Leay my adventure, +with which he was highly delighted. My object is this procedure was to +convince the natives, generally, that we came not among them to injure +or to molest them, as well as to impress them with an idea of our +superior intelligence; and I am led to indulge the hope that I +succeeded. Certain it is, that an act of justice or of lenity has +frequently, if well timed, more weight than the utmost stretch of +severity. With savages, more particularly, to exhibit any fear, +distrust, or irresolution, will inevitably prove injurious. +</P> + +<P> +But although these adventures were happily not attended with bloodshed, +they harassed the men much; and our camp for near a week was more like +an outpost picquet than any thing else. This, however, terminated all +attempts on the part of the natives. From henceforth none of them +followed us on our route. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +BREACH THE DEPOT. +</H4> + +<P> +At noon, I stopped about a mile short of the depot to take sights. +After dinner we pulled on, the men looking earnestly out for their +comrades whom they had left there, but none appeared. My little arbour, +in which I had written my letters, was destroyed, and the bank on which +out tents had stood was wholly deserted. We landed, however, and it was +a satisfaction to me to see the homeward track of the drays. The men +were sadly disappointed, and poor Clayton, who had anticipated a +plentiful meal, was completely chop fallen. M'Leay and I comforted them +daily with the hopes of meeting the drays, which I did not think +improbable. +</P> + +<P> +Thus, it will appear, that we regained the place from which we started +in seventy-seven days, during which, we could not have pulled less than +2000 miles. It is not for me, however, to make any comment, either on +the dangers to which we were occasionally exposed, or the toil and +privations we continually experienced in the course of this expedition. +My duty is, simply to give a plain narrative of facts, which I have +done with fidelity, and with as much accuracy as circumstances would +permit. Had we found Robert Harris at the depot, I should have +considered it unnecessary to trespass longer on the patient reader, but +as our return to that post did not relieve us from our difficulties, it +remains for me to carry on the narrative of our proceedings to the time +when we reached the upper branches of the Morumbidgee. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DISAPPOINTED OF SUPPLIES. +</H4> + +<P> +The hopes that had buoyed up the spirits of the men, ceased to operate +as soon as they were discovered to have been ill founded. The most +gloomy ideas took possession of their minds, and they fancied that we +had been neglected, and that Harris had remained in Sydney. It was to +no purpose that I explained to them that my instructions did not bind +Harris to come beyond Pondebadgery, and that I was confident he was +then encamped upon that plain. +</P> + +<P> +We had found the intricate navigation of the Morumbidgee infinitely +more distressing than the hard pulling up the open reaches of the +Murray, for we were obliged to haul the boat up between numberless +trunks of trees, an operation that exhausted the men much more than +rowing. The river had fallen below its former level, and rocks and logs +were now exposed above the water, over many of which the boat's keel +must have grazed, as we passed down with the current. I really +shuddered frequently, at seeing these complicated dangers, and I was at +a loss to conceive how we could have escaped them. The planks of our +boat were so thin that if she had struck forcibly against any one +branch of the hundreds she must have grazed, she would inevitably have +been rent asunder from stem to stern. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +COMPLETE EXHAUSTION OF THE MEN—ONE LOSES HIS SENSES. +</H4> + +<P> +The day after we passed the depot, on our return, we began to +experience the effects of the rains that had fallen in the mountains. +The Morumbidgee rose upon us six feet in one night, and poured along +its turbid waters with proportionate violence. For seventeen days we +pulled against them with determined perseverance, but human efforts, +under privations such as ours, tend to weaken themselves, and thus it +was that the men began to exhibit the effects of severe and unremitting +toil. Our daily journeys were short, and the head we made against the +stream but trifling. The men lost the proper and muscular jerk with +which they once made the waters foam and the oars bend. Their whole +bodies swung with an awkward and laboured motion. Their arms appeared +to be nerveless; their faces became haggard, their persons emaciated, +their spirits wholly sunk; nature was so completely overcome, that from +mere exhaustion they frequently fell asleep during their painful and +almost ceaseless exertions. It grieved me to the heart to see them in +such a state at the close of so perilous a service, and I began to +reproach Robert Harris that he did not move down the river to meet us; +but, in fact, he was not to blame. I became captious, and found fault +where there was no occasion, and lost the equilibrium of my temper in +contemplating the condition of my companions. No murmur, however, +escaped them, nor did a complaint reach me, that was intended to +indicate that they had done all they could do. I frequently heard them +in their tent, when they thought I had dropped asleep, complaining of +severe pains and of great exhaustion. "I must tell the captain, +to-morrow," some of them would say, "that I can pull no more." +To-morrow came, and they pulled on, as if reluctant to yield to +circumstances. Macnamee at length lost his senses. We first observed +this from his incoherent conversation, but eventually from manner. He +related the most extraordinary tales, and fidgeted about eternally +while in the boat. I felt it necessary, therefore, to relieve him from +the oars. +</P> + +<P> +Amidst these distresses, M'Leay preserved his good humour, and +endeavoured to lighten the task, and to cheer the men as much as +possible. His presence at this time was a source of great comfort to +me. The uniform kindness with which he had treated his companions, gave +him an influence over them now, and it was exerted with the happiest +effect. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +DESPATCH TWO MEN TO PONDEBADGERY. +</H4> + +<P> +On the 8th and 9th of April we had heavy rain, but there was no respite +for us. Our provisions were nearly consumed, and would have been wholly +exhausted, if we had not been so fortunate as to kill several swans. On +the 11th, we gained our camp opposite to Hamilton's Plains, after a day +of severe exertion. Our tents were pitched upon the old ground, and the +marks of our cattle were around us. In the evening, the men went out +with their guns, and M'Leay and I walked to the rear of the camp, to +consult undisturbed as to the moat prudent measures to be adopted, +under our embarrassing circumstances. The men were completely sunk. We +were still between eighty and ninety miles from Pondebadgery, in a +direct line, and nearly treble that distance by water. The task was +greater than we could perform, and our provisions were insufficient. In +this extremity I thought it best to save the men the mortification of +yielding, by abandoning the boat; and on further consideration, I +determined on sending Hopkinson and Mulholland, whose devotion, +intelligence, and indefatigable spirits, I well knew, forward to the +plain. +</P> + +<P> +The joy this intimation spread was universal, Both Hopkinson and +Mulholland readily undertook the journey, and I, accordingly, prepared +orders for them to start by the earliest dawn. It was not without a +feeling of sorrow that I witnessed the departure of these two men, to +encounter a fatiguing march. I had no fears as to their gaining the +plain, if their reduced state would permit them. On the other hand, I +hoped they would fall in with our old friend the black, or that they +would meet the drays; and I could not but admire the spirit and energy +they both displayed upon the occasion. Their behaviour throughout had +been such as to awaken in my breast a feeling of the highest +approbation. Their conduct, indeed, exceeded all praise, nor did they +hesitate one moment when I called upon them to undertake this last +trying duty, after such continued exertion. I am sure the reader will +forgive me for bringing under his notice the generous efforts of these +two men; by me it can never be forgotten. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ABANDON AND BURN THE BOAT. +</H4> + +<P> +Six days had passed since their departure; we remaining encamped. +M'Leay and myself had made some short excursions, but without any +result worthy of notice. A group of sand-hills rose in the midst of the +alluvial deposits, about a quarter of a mile from the tents, that were +covered with coarse grasses and banksias. We shot several intertropical +birds feeding in the latter, and sucking the honey from their flowers. +I had, in the mean time, directed Clayton to make some plant cases of +the upper planks of the boat, and then to set fire to her, for she was +wholly unserviceable, and I felt a reluctance to leave her like a +neglected log on the water. The last ounce of flour had been served out +to the men, and the whole of it was consumed on the sixth day from that +on which we had abandoned the boat. I had calculated on seeing +Hopkinson again in eight days, but as the morrow would see us without +food, I thought, as the men had had a little rest it would be better to +advance towards relief than to await its arrival. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +MEN RETURN WITH SUPPLIES. +</H4> + +<P> +On the evening of the 18th, therefore, we buried our specimens and +other stores, intending to break up the camp in the morning. A singular +bird, which invariably passed it at an hour after sunset, and which, +from its heavy flight, appeared to be of unusual size so attracted my +notice, that in the evening M'Leay and I crossed the river, in hope to +get a shot at it. We had, however, hardly landed on the other side, +when a loud shout called us back to witness the return of our comrades. +</P> + +<P> +They were both of them in a state that beggars description. Their knees +and ankles were dreadfully swollen, and their limbs so painful, that as +soon as they arrived in the camp they sunk under their efforts, but +they met us with smiling countenances, and expressed their satisfaction +at having arrived so seasonably to our relief. They had, as I had +foreseen, found Robert Harris on the plain, which they reached on the +evening of the third day. They had started early the next morning on +their return with such supplies as they thought we might immediately +want. Poor Macnamee had in a great measure recovered, but for some days +he was sullen and silent: sight of the drays gave him uncommon +satisfaction. Clayton gorged himself; but M'Leay, myself and Fraser +could not at first relish the meat that was placed before us. +</P> + +<P> +It was determined to give the bullocks a day of rest, and I availed +myself of the serviceable state of the horses to visit some hills about +eighteen miles to the northward. I was anxious to gain a view of the +distant country to the N.W., and to ascertain the geological character +of the hills themselves. M'Leay, Fraser, and myself left the camp early +in the morning of the 19th, on our way to them. Crossing the sand +hills, we likewise passed a creek, and, from the flooded or alluvial +tracks, got on an elevated sandy country, in which we found a beautiful +grevillia. From this we passed a barren ridge of quartz-formation, +terminating in open box forest. From it we descended and traversed a +plain that must, at some periods, be almost impassable. It was covered +with acacia pendula, and the soil was a red earth, bare of vegetation +in many places. At its extremity we came to some stony ridges, and, +descending their northern side, gained the base of the hills. They were +more extensive than they appeared to be from our camp; and were about +six hundred feet in height, and composed of a conglomerate rock. They +were extremely barren, nor did the aspect of the country seem to +indicate a favourable change. I was enabled, however, to connect my +line of route with the more distant hills between the Morumbidgee and +the Lachlan. We returned to the camp at midnight. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +MEET WITH THE DRAYS. +</H4> + +<P> +On the following morning we left our station before Hamilton's Plains. +We reached Pondebadgery on the 28th, and found Robert Harris, with a +plentiful supply of provisions. He had everything extremely regular, +and had been anxiously expecting our return, of which he at length +wholly despaired. He had been at the plain two months, and intended to +have moved down the river immediately, had we not made our appearance +when we did. +</P> + +<P> +I had sent M'Leay forward on the 20th with letters to the Governor, +whose anxiety was great on our account. I remained for a fortnight on +the plain to restore the men, but Hopkinson had so much over-exerted +himself that it was with difficulty he crawled along. +</P> + +<P> +In my despatches to the Governor, from the depot, I had suggested the +policy of distributing some blankets and other presents to the natives +on the Morumbidgee, in order to reward those who had been useful to our +party, and in the hope of proving beneficial to settlers in that +distant part of the colony. His Excellency was kind enough to accede to +my request, and I found ample means for these purposes among the stores +that Harris brought from Sydney. +</P> + +<P> +We left Pondebadgery Plain early on the 5th of May, and reached Guise's +Station late in the afternoon. We gained Yass Plains on the 12th, +having struck through the mountain passes by a direct line, instead of +returning by our old route near Underaliga. As the party was crossing +the plains I rode to see Mr. O'Brien, but did not find him at home. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +INSTANCE OF CANNIBALISM. +</H4> + +<P> +While waiting at his hut, one of the stockmen pointed out two blacks to +me at a little distance from us. The one was standing, the other +sitting. "That fellow, sir," said he, "who is sitting down, killed his +infant child last night by knocking its head against a stone, after +which he threw it on the fire and then devoured it." I was quite horror +struck, and could scarcely believe such a story. I therefore went up to +the man and questioned him as to the fact, as well as I could. He did +not attempt to deny it, but slunk away in evident consciousness. I then +questioned the other that remained, whose excuse for his friend was +that the child was sick and would never have grown up, adding he +himself did not PATTER (eat) any of it. +</P> + +<P> +Many of my readers may probably doubt this horrid occurrence having +taken place, as I have not mentioned any corroborating circumstances. I +am myself, however, as firmly persuaded of the truth of what I have +stated as if I had seen the savage commit the act; for I talked to his +companion who did see him, and who described to me the manner in which +he killed the child. Be it as it may, the very mention of such a thing +among these people goes to prove that they are capable of such an +enormity. +</P> + +<P> +We left Yass Plains on the 14th of May, and reached Sydney by easy +stages on the 25th, after an absence of nearly six months. +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR ALIGN="center" WIDTH="60%"> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CONCLUDING REMARKS. +</H4> + +<P> +To most of my readers, the foregoing narrative will appear little else +than a succession of adventures. Whilst the expedition was toiling down +the rivers, no rich country opened upon the view to reward or to cheer +the perseverance of those who composed it, and when, at length, the +land of promise lay smiling before them, their strength and their means +were too much exhausted to allow of their commencing an examination, of +the result of which there could be but little doubt. The expedition +returned to Sydney, without any splendid discovery to gild its +proceedings; and the labours and dangers it had encountered were +considered as nothing more than ordinary occurrences. If I myself had +entertained hopes that my researches would have benefited the colony, I +was wholly disappointed. There is a barren tract of country lying to +the westward of the Blue Mountains that will ever divide the eastern +coast from the more central parts of Australia, as completely as if +seas actually rolled between them. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +GEOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. +</H4> + +<P> +In a geographical point of view, however, nothing could have been more +satisfactory, excepting an absolute knowledge of the country to the +northward between the Murray and the Darling, than the results of the +expedition. I have in its proper place stated, as fairly as I could, my +reasons for supposing the principal junction (which I consequently left +without a name) to be the Darling of my former journey, as well as the +various arguments that bore against such a conclusion. +</P> + +<P> +Of course, where there is so much room for doubt, opinions will be +various. I shall merely review the subject, in order to connect +subsequent events with my previous observations, and to give the reader +a full idea of that which struck me to be the case on a close and +anxious investigation of the country from mountain to lowland. I +returned from the Macquarie with doubts on my mind as to the ultimate +direction to which the waters of the Darling river might ultimately +flow; for, with regard to every other point, the question was, I +considered, wholly decided. But, with regard to that singular stream, I +was, from the little knowledge I had obtained, puzzled as to its actual +course; and I thought it as likely that it might turn into the heart of +the interior, as that it would make to the south. It had not, however, +escaped my notice, that the northern rivers turned more abruptly +southward (after gaining a certain distance from the base of the +ranges) than the more southern streams: near the junction of the +Castlereagh with the Darling especially, the number of large creeks +joining the first river from the north, led me to conclude that there +was at that particular spot a rapid fall of country to the south. +</P> + +<P> +The first thing that strengthened in my mind this half-formed opinion, +was the fall of the Lachlan into the Morumbidgee. I had been told that +Australia was a basin; that an unbroken range of hills lined its +coasts, the internal rivers of which fell into its centre, and +contributed to the formation of an inland sea; I was not therefore +prepared to find a break in the chain—a gap as it were for the escape +of these waters to the coast. +</P> + +<P> +Subsequently to our entrance into the Murray, the remarkable efforts of +that river to maintain a southerly course were observed even by the +men, and the singular runs it made to the south, when unchecked by high +lands, clearly evinced its natural tendency to flow in that direction. +</P> + +<P> +Had we found ourselves at an elevation above the bed of the Darling +when we reached the junction of the principal tributary with the +Murray, I should still have had doubts on my mind as to the identity of +that tributary with the first-mentioned river; but considering the +trifling elevation of the Darling above the sea, and that the junction +was still less elevated above it, I cannot bring myself to believe that +the former alters its course. It is not, however, on this simple +geographical principle that I have built my conclusions; other +corroborative circumstances have tended also to confirm in my mind the +opinion I have already given, not only of the comparatively recent +appearance above the ocean of the level country over which I had +passed, but that the true dip of the interior is from north to south. +</P> + +<P> +In support of the first of these conclusions, it would appear that a +current of water must have swept the vast accumulation of shells, +forming the great fossil bank through which the Murray passes from the +northern extremity of the continent, to deposit them where they are; +and it would further appear from the gradual rise of this bed, on an +inclined plain from N.N.E. to S.S.W., that it must in the first +instance, have swept along the base of the ranges, but ultimately +turned into the above direction by the convexity of the mountains at +the S.E. angle of the coast. From the circumstance, moreover, of the +summit of the fossil formation being in places covered with oyster +shells, the fact of the whole mass having been under water is +indisputable, and leads us naturally to the conclusion that the +depressed interior beyond it must have been under water at the same +time. +</P> + +<P> +It was proved by barometrical admeasurement, that the cataract of the +Macquarie was 680 feet above the level of the sea, and, in like manner, +it was found that the depot of Mr. Oxley, on the Lachlan, was only 500, +there being a still greater fall of country beyond these two points. +The maximum height of the fossil bank was 300 feet; and if we suppose a +line to be drawn from its top to the eastward, that line would pass +over the marshes of the two rivers, and would cut them at a point below +which they both gradually diminish. Hence I am brought to conclude that +in former times the sea washed the western base of the dividing ranges, +at or near the two points whose respective elevations I have given; and +that when the mass of land now lying waste and unproductive, became +exposed, the rivers, which until then had pursued a regular course to +the ocean, having no channel beyond their original termination, +overflowed the almost level country into which they now fall; or, +filling some extensive concavity, have contributed, by successive +depositions, to the formation of those marshes of which so much has +been said. I regret extremely, that my defective vision prevents me +giving a slight sketch to elucidate whet I fear I have, in words, +perhaps, failed in making sufficiently intelligible. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. +</H4> + +<P> +Now, as we know not by what means the changes that have taken place on +the earth's surface have been effected, and can only reason on them +from analogy, it is to be feared we shall never arrive at any clear +demonstration of the truth of our surmises with regard to geographical +changes, whether extensive or local, since the causes which produced +them will necessarily have ceased to operate. We cannot refer to the +dates when they took place, as we may do in regard to the eruptions of +a volcano, or the appearance or disappearance of an island. Such events +are of minor importance. Those mighty changes to which I would be +understood to allude, can hardly be laid to the account of chemical +agency. We can easily comprehend how subterranean fires will +occasionally burst forth, and can thus satisfactorily account for +earthquake or volcano; but it is not to any clashing of properties, or +to any visible causes, that the changes of which I speak can be +attributed. They appear rather as the consequences of direct agency, of +an invisible power, not as the occasional and fretful workings of +nature herself. The marks of that awful catastrophe which so nearly +extinguished the human race, are every day becoming more and more +visible as geological research proceeds. Thus, in the limestone caves +at Wellington Valley, the remains of fossils and exuviae, show that +their depths were penetrated by the same searching element that poured +into the caverns of Kirkdale and other places. They are as gleams of +sunshine falling upon the pages of that sublime and splendid volume, in +which the history of the deluge is alone to be found; as if the +Almighty intended that His word should stand single and unsupported +before mankind: and when we consider that such corroborative +testimonies of his wrath, as those I have noticed, were in all +probability wholly unknown to those who wrote that sacred book, the +discovery of the remains of a past world, must strike those under whose +knowledge it may fall with the truth of that awful event, which +language has vainly endeavoured to describe and painters to represent. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap08"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +CHAPTER VIII. +</H3> + +<P CLASS="intro"> +Environs of the lake Alexandrina—Appointment of Capt. Barker to make a +further survey of the coast near Encounter Bay—Narrative of his +proceedings—Mount Lofty, Mount Barker, and beautiful country +adjacent—Australian salmon—Survey of the coast—Outlet of lake to the +sea—Circumstances that led to the slaughter of Capt. Barker by the +natives—His character—Features of this part of the country and +capabilities of its coasts—Its adaptation for colonization—Suggestions +for the furtherance of future Expeditions. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ENVIRONS OF THE LAKE ALEXANDRINA. +</H4> + +<P> +The foregoing narrative will have given the reader some idea of the +state in which the last expedition reached the bottom of that extensive +and magnificent basin which receives the waters of the Murray. The men +were, indeed, so exhausted, in strength, and their provisions so much +reduced by the time they gained the coast, that I doubted much, whether +either would hold out to such place as we might hope for relief. Yet, +reduced as the whole of us were from previous exertion, beset as our +homeward path was by difficulty and danger, and involved as our +eventual safety was in obscurity and doubt, I could not but deplore the +necessity that obliged me to re-cross the Lake Alexandrina (as I had +named it in honour of the heir apparent to the British crown), and to +relinquish the examination of its western shores. We were borne over +its ruffled and agitated surface with such rapidity, that I had +scarcely time to view it as we passed; but, cursory as my glance was, I +could not but think I was leaving behind me the fullest reward of our +toil, in a country that would ultimately render our discoveries +valuable, and benefit the colony for whose interests we were engaged. +Hurried, I would repeat, as my view of it was, my eye never fell on a +country of more promising aspect, or of more favourable position, than +that which occupies the space between the lake and the ranges of St. +Vincent's Gulf, and, continuing northerly from Mount Barker, stretches +away, without any visible boundary. +</P> + +<P> +It appeared to me that, unless nature had deviated from her usual laws, +this tract of country could not but be fertile, situated as it was to +receive the mountain deposits on the one hand, and those of the lake +upon the other. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +FURTHER EXAMINATION OF THE COAST. +</H4> + +<P> +In my report to the Colonial Government, however, I did not feel myself +justified in stating, to their full extent, opinions that were founded +on probability and conjecture alone. But, although I was guarded in +this particular, I strongly recommended a further examination of the +coast, from the most eastern point of Encounter Bay, to the head St. +Vincent's Gulf, to ascertain if any other than the known channel +existed among the sand-hills of the former, or if, as I had every +reason to hope from the great extent of water to the N.W., there was a +practicable communication with the lake from the other; and I ventured +to predict, that a closer survey of the interjacent country, would be +attended with the most beneficial results; nor have I a doubt that the +promontory of Cape Jervis would ere this have been settled, had Captain +Barker lived to complete his official reports. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CAPT. BARKER'S SURVEY. +</H4> + +<P> +The governor, General Darling, whose multifarious duties might well +have excused him from paying attention to distant objects, hesitated +not a moment when he thought the interests of the colony, whose welfare +he so zealously promoted, appeared to be concerned; and he determined +to avail himself of the services of Captain Collet Barker, of the 39th +regiment, who was about to be recalled from King George's Sound, in +order to satisfy himself as to the correctness of my views. +</P> + +<P> +Captain Barker had not long before been removed from Port Raffles, on +the northern coast, where he had had much intercourse with the natives, +and had frequently trusted himself wholly in their hands. It was not, +however, merely on account of his conciliating manners, and knowledge +of the temper and habits of the natives, that he was particularly +fitted for the duty upon which it was the governor's pleasure to employ +him. He was, in addition, a man of great energy of character, and of +much and various information. +</P> + +<P> +Orders having reached Sydney, directing the establishment belonging to +New South Wales to be withdrawn, prior to the occupation of King +George's Sound by the government of Western Australia, the ISABELLA +schooner was sent to receive the troops and prisoners on board; and +Captain Barker was directed, as soon as he should have handed over the +settlement to Captain Stirling, to proceed to Cape Jervis, from which +point it was thought he could best carry on a survey not only of the +coast but also of the interior. +</P> + +<P> +This excellent and zealous officer sailed from King George's Sound, on +the 10th of April, 1831, and arrived off Cape Jervis on the 13th. He +was attended by Doctor Davies, one of the assistant surgeons of his +regiment, and by Mr. Kent, of the Commissariat. It is to the latter +gentleman that the public are indebted for the greater part of the +following details; he having attended Captain Barker closely during the +whole of this short but disastrous excursion, and made notes as copious +as they are interesting. At the time the ISABELLA arrived off Cape +Jervis, the weather was clear and favourable. Captain Barker +consequently stood into St. Vincent's Gulf, keeping, as near as +practicable, to the eastern shore, in soundings that varied from six to +ten fathoms, upon sand and mud. His immediate object was to ascertain +if there was any communication with the lake Alexandrina from the gulf. +He ascended to lat. 34 degrees 40 minutes where he fully satisfied +himself that no channel did exist between them. He found, however, that +the ranges behind Cape Jervis terminated abruptly at Mount Lofty, in +lat. 34 degrees 56 minutes, and, that a flat and wooded country +succeeded to the N. and N.E. The shore of the gulf tended more to the +N.N.W., and mud flats and mangrove swamps prevailed along it. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +INVITING COUNTRY—MOUNT LOFTY. +</H4> + +<P> +Mr. Kent informs me, that they landed for the first time on the 15th, +but that they returned almost immediately to the vessel. On the 17th, +Captain Barker again landed, with the intention of remaining on shore +for two or three days. He was accompanied by Mr. Kent, his servant +Mills, and two soldiers. The boat went to the place at which they had +before landed, as they thought they had discovered a small river with a +bar entrance. They crossed the bar, and ascertained that it was a +narrow inlet, of four miles in length, that terminated at the base of +the ranges. The party were quite delighted with the aspect of the +country on either side of the inlet, and with the bold and romantic +scenery behind them. The former bore the appearance of natural meadows, +lightly timbered, and covered with a variety of grasses. The soil was +observed to be a rich, fat, chocolate coloured earth, probably the +decomposition of the deep blue limestone, that showed itself along the +coast hereabouts. On the other hand, a rocky glen made a cleft in the +ranges at the head of the inlet; and they were supplied with abundance +of fresh water which remained in the deeper pools that had been filled +by the torrents during late rains. The whole neighbourhood was so +inviting that the party slept at the head of the inlet. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +MOUNT LOFTY AND ITS ENVIRONS. +</H4> + +<P> +In the morning, Captain Barker proceeded to ascend Mount Lofty, +accompanied by Mr. Kent and his servant, leaving the two soldiers at +the bivouac, at which he directed them to remain until his return. Mr. +Kent says they kept the ridge all the way, and rose above the sea by a +gradual ascent. The rock-formation of the lower ranges appeared to be +an argillaceous schist; the sides and summit of the ranges were covered +with verdure, and the trees upon them were of more than ordinary size. +The view to the eastward was shut out by other ranges, parallel to +those on which they were; below them to the westward, the same pleasing +kind of country that flanked the inlet still continued. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +MOUNT BARKER. +</H4> + +<P> +In the course of the day they passed round the head of a deep ravine, +whose smooth and grassy sides presented a beautiful appearance. The +party stood 600 feet above the bed of a small rivulet that occupied the +bottom of the ravine. In some places huge blocks of granite interrupted +its course, in others the waters had worn the rock smooth. The polish +of these rocks was quite beautiful, and the veins of red and white +quartz which traversed them, looked like mosaic work. They did not gain +the top of Mount Lofty, but slept a few miles beyond the ravine. In the +morning they continued their journey, and, crossing Mount Lofty, +descended northerly, to a point from which the range bent away a little +to the N.N.E., and then terminated. The view from this point was much +more extensive than that from Mount Lofty itself. They overlooked a +great part of the gulf, and could distinctly see the mountains at the +head of it to the N.N.W. To the N.W. there was a considerable +indentation in the coast, which had escaped Captain Barker's notice +when examining it. A mountain, very similar to Mount Lofty, bore due +east of them, and appeared to be the termination of its range. They +were separated by a valley of about ten miles in width, the appearance +of which was not favourable. Mr. Kent states to me, that Capt. Barker +observed at the time that he thought it probable I had mistaken this +hill for Mount Lofty, since it shut out the view of the lake from him, +and therefore he naturally concluded, I could not have seen Mount +Lofty. I can readily imagine such an error to have been made by me, +more especially as I remember that at the time I was taking bearings in +the lake, I thought Captain Flinders had not given Mount Lofty, as I +then conceived it to be, its proper position in longitude. Both hills +are in the same parallel of latitude. The mistake on my part is +obvious. I have corrected it in the charts, and have availed myself of +the opportunity thus afforded me of perpetuating, as far as I can, the +name of an inestimable companion in Captain Barker himself. +</P> + +<P> +Immediately below the point on which they stood, Mr. Kent says, a low +undulating country extended to the northward, as far as he could see. +It was partly open, and partly wooded; and was every where covered with +verdure. It continued round to the eastward, and apparently ran down +southerly, at the opposite base of the mount Barker Range. I think +there can be but little doubt that my view from the S.E., that is, from +the lake, extended over the same or a part of the same country. Captain +Barker again slept on the summit of the range, near a large basin that +looked like the mouth of a crater, in which huge fragments of rocks +made a scene of the utmost confusion. These rocks were a coarse grey +granite, of which the higher parts and northern termination of the +Mount Lofty range are evidently formed; for Mr. Kent remarks that it +superseded the schistose formation at the ravine we have noticed—and +that, subsequently, the sides of the hills became more broken, and +valleys, or gullies, more properly speaking, very numerous. Captain +Barker estimated the height of Mount Lofty above the sea at 2,400 feet, +and the distance of its summit from the coast at eleven miles. Mr. Kent +says they were surprised at the size of the trees on the immediate brow +of it; they measured one and found it to be 43 feet in girth. Indeed, +he adds, vegetation did not appear to have suffered either from its +elevated position, or from any prevailing wind. Eucalypti were the +general timber on the ranges; one species of which, resembling strongly +the black butted-gum, was remarkable for a scent peculiar to its bark. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +AUSTRALIAN SALMON. +</H4> + +<P> +The party rejoined the soldiers on the 21st, and enjoyed the supply of +fish which they had provided for them. The soldiers had amused +themselves by fishing during Captain Barker's absence, and had been +abundantly successful. Among others they had taken a kind of salmon, +which, though inferior in size, resembled in shape, in taste, and in +the colour of its flesh, the salmon of Europe. I fancied that a fish +which I observed with extremely glittering scales, in the mouth of a +seal, when myself on the coast, must have been of this kind; and I have +no doubt that the lake is periodically visited by salmon, and that +these fish retain their habits of entering fresh water at particular +seasons, also in the southern hemisphere. +</P> + +<P> +Immediately behind Cape Jervis, there is a small bay, in which +according to the information of the sealers who frequent Kangaroo +Island, there is good and safe anchorage for seven months in the year, +that is to say, during the prevalence of the E. and N.E. winds. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +SURVEY OF THE COAST. +</H4> + +<P> +Captain Barker landed on the 21st on this rocky point at the northern +extremity of this bay. He had, however, previously to this, examined +the indentation in the coast which he had observed from Mount Lofty, +and had ascertained that it was nothing more than an inlet; a spit of +sand, projecting from the shore at right angles with it, concealed the +month of the inlet. They took the boat to examine this point, and +carried six fathoms soundings round the head of the spit to the mouth +of the inlet, when it shoaled to two fathoms, and the landing was +observed to be bad, by reason of mangrove swamps on either side of it. +Mr. Kent, I think, told me that this inlet was from ten to twelve miles +long. Can it be that a current setting out of it at times, has thrown +up the sand-bank that protects its mouth, and that trees, or any other +obstacle, have hidden its further prolongation from Captain Barker's +notice? I have little hope that such is the case, but the remark is not +an idle one. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +BEAUTIFUL VALLEYS. +</H4> + +<P> +Between this inlet and the one formerly mentioned, a small and clear +stream was discovered, to which Captain Barker kindly gave my name. On +landing, the party, which consisted of the same persons as the former +one, found themselves in a valley, which opened direct upon the bay. It +was confined to the north from the chief range by a lateral ridge, that +gradually declined towards and terminated at, the rocky point on which +they had landed. The other side of the valley was formed of a +continuation of the main range, which also gradually declined to the +south, and appeared to be connected with the hills at the extremity of +the cape. The valley was from nine to ten miles in length, and from +three to four in breadth. In crossing it, they ascertained that the +lagoon from which the schooner had obtained a supply of water, was +filled by a watercourse that came down its centre. The soil in the +valley was rich, but stony in some parts. There was an abundance of +pasture over the whole, from amongst which they started numerous +kangaroos. The scenery towards the ranges was beautiful and romantic, +and the general appearance of the country such as to delight the whole +party. +</P> + +<P> +Preserving a due east course, Captain Barker passed over the opposite +range of hills, and descended almost immediately into a second valley +that continued to the southwards. Its soil was poor and stony, and it +was covered with low scrub. Crossing it, they ascended the opposite +range, from the summit of which they had a view of Encounter Bay. An +extensive flat stretched from beneath them to the eastward, and was +backed, in the distance, by sand hummocks, and low wooded hills. The +extreme right of the flat rested upon the coast, at a rocky point near +which there were two or three islands. From the left a beautiful valley +opened upon it. A strong and clear rivulet from this valley traversed +the flat obliquely, and fell into the sea at the rocky point, or a +little to the southward of it. The hills forming the opposite side of +the valley had already terminated. Captain Barker, therefore, ascended +to higher ground, and, at length, obtained a view of the Lake +Alexandrina, and the channel of its communication with the sea to the +N.E. He now descended to the flat, and frequently expressed his anxious +wish to Mr. Kent that I had been one of their number to enjoy the +beauty of the scenery around them, and to participate in their labours. +Had fate so ordained it, it is possible the melancholy tragedy that +soon after occurred might have been averted. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +OUTLET OF LAKE TO THE SEA. +</H4> + +<P> +At the termination of the flat they found themselves upon the banks of +the channel, and close to the sand hillock under which my tents had +been pitched. From this point they proceeded along the line of +sand-hills to the outlet; from which it would appear that Kangaroo +Island is not visible, but that the distant point which I mistook for +it was the S.E. angle of Cape Jervis. I have remarked, in describing +that part of the coast, that there is a sand-hill to the eastward of +the inlet, under which the tide runs strong, and the water is deep. +Captain Barker judged the breadth of the channel to be a quarter of a +mile, and he expressed a desire to swim across it to the sand-hill to +take bearings, and to ascertain the nature of the strand beyond it to +the eastward. +</P> + +<P> +It unfortunately happened, that he was the only one of the party who +could swim well, in consequence of which his people remonstrated with +him on the danger of making the attempt unattended. Notwithstanding, +however, that he was seriously indisposed, he stripped, and after Mr. +Kent had fastened his compass on his head for him, he plunged into the +water, and with difficulty gained the opposite side; to effect which +took him nine minutes and fifty-eight seconds. His anxious comrades saw +him ascend the hillock, and take several bearings; he then descended +the farther side, and was never seen by them again. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +CIRCUMSTANCES ATTENDING THE LOSS OF CAPTAIN BARKER. +</H4> + +<P> +For a considerable time Mr. Kent remained stationary, in momentary +expectation of his return; but at length, taking the two soldiers with +him, he proceeded along the shore in search of wood for a fire. At +about a quarter of a mile, the soldiers stopped and expressed their +wish to return, as their minds misgave them, and they feared that +Captain Barker had met with some accident. While conversing, they heard +a distant shout, or cry, which Mr. Kent thought resembled the call of +the natives, but which the soldiers positively declared to be the voice +of a white man. On their return to their companions, they asked if any +sounds had caught their ears, to which they replied in the negative. +The wind was blowing from the E.S.E., in which direction Captain Barker +had gone; and, to me, the fact of the nearer party not having heard +that which must have been his cries for assistance, is satisfactorily +accounted for, as, being immediately under the hill, the sounds must +have passed over their heads to be heard more distinctly at the +distance at which Mr. Kent and the soldiers stood. It is more than +probable, that while his men were expressing their anxiety about him, +the fearful tragedy was enacting which it has become my painful task to +detail. +</P> + +<P> +Evening closed in without any signs of Captain Barker's return, or any +circumstance by which Mr. Kent could confirm his fears that he had +fallen into the hands of the natives. For, whether it was that the +tribe which had shown such decided hostility to me when on the coast +had not observed the party, none made their appearance; and if I except +two, who crossed the channel when Mr. Kent was in search of wood, they +had neither seen nor heard any; and Captain Barker's enterprising +disposition being well known to his men, hopes were still entertained +that he was safe. A large fire was kindled, and the party formed a +silent and anxious group around it. Soon after night-fall, however, +their attention was roused by the sounds of the natives, and it was at +length discovered, that they had lighted a chain of small fires between +the sand-hill Captain Barker had ascended and the opposite side of the +channel, around which their women were chanting their melancholy dirge. +It struck upon the ears of the listeners with an ominous thrill, and +assured them of the certainty of the irreparable loss they had +sustained. All night did those dismal sounds echo along that lonely +shore, but as morning dawned, they ceased, and Mr. Kent and his +companions were again left in anxiety and doubt. They, at length, +thought it most advisable to proceed to the schooner to advise with +Doctor Davies. They traversed the beach with hasty steps, but did not +get on board till the following day. It was then determined to procure +assistance from the sealers on Kangaroo Island, as the only means by +which they could ascertain their leader's fate, and they accordingly +entered American Harbour. For a certain reward, one of the men agreed +to accompany Mr. Kent to the main with a native woman, to communicate +with the tribe that was supposed to have killed him. They landed at or +near the rocky point of Encounter Bay, where they were joined by two +other natives, one of whom was blind. The woman was sent forward for +intelligence, and on her return gave the following details: +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ACCOUNT OF HIS MURDER. +</H4> + +<P> +It appears that at a very considerable distance from the first +sand-hill, there is another to which Captain Barker must have walked, +for the woman stated that three natives were going to the shore from +their tribe, and that they crossed his tract. Their quick perception +immediately told them it was an unusual impression. They followed upon +it, and saw Captain Barker returning. They hesitated for a long time to +approach him, being fearful of the instrument he carried. At length, +however, they closed upon him. Capt. Barker tried to soothe them, but +finding that they were determined to attack him, he made for the water +from which he could not have been very distant. One of the blacks +immediately threw his spear and struck him in the hip. This did not, +however, stop him. He got among the breakers, when he received the +second spear in the shoulder. On this, turning round, he received a +third full in the breast: with such deadly precision do these savages +cast their weapons. It would appear that the third spear was already on +its flight when Capt. Barker turned, and it is to be hoped, that it was +at once mortal. He fell on his back into the water. The natives then +rushed in, and dragging him out by the legs, seized their spears, and +indicted innumerable wounds upon his body; after which, they threw it +into deep water, and the sea-tide carried it away. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +HIS CHARACTER. +</H4> + +<P> +Such, we have every reason to believe, was the untimely fate of this +amiable and talented man. It is a melancholy satisfaction to me thus +publicly to record his worth; instrumental, as I cannot but in some +measure consider my last journey to have been in leading to this fatal +catastrophe. Captain Barker was in disposition, as he was in the close +of his life, in many respects similar to Captain Cook. Mild, affable, +and attentive, he had the esteem and regard of every companion, and the +respect of every one under him. Zealous in the discharge of his public +duties, honourable and just in private life; a lover and a follower of +science; indefatigable and dauntless in his pursuits; a steady friend, +an entertaining companion; charitable, kind-hearted, disinterested, and +sincere—the task is equally difficult to find adequate expressions of +praise or of regret. In him the king lost one of his most valuable +officers, and his regiment one of its most efficient members. Beloved +as he was, the news of his loss struck his numerous friends with +sincere grief, but by none was it more severely felt than by the humble +individual who has endeavoured thus feebly to draw his portrait. +</P> + +<P> +From the same source from which the particulars of his death were +obtained, it was reported that the natives who perpetrated the deed +were influenced by no other motive than curiosity to ascertain if they +had power to kill a white man. But we must be careful in giving credit +to this, for it is much more probable that the cruelties exercised by +the sealers towards the blacks along the south coast, may have +instigated the latter to take vengeance on the innocent as well as on +the guilty. It will be seen, by a reference to the chart, that Captain +Barker, by crossing the channel, threw himself into the very hands of +that tribe which had evinced such determined hostility to myself and my +men. He got into the rear of their strong hold, and was sacrificed to +those feelings of suspicion, and to that desire of revenge, which the +savages never lose sight of until they have been gratified. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY, AND CAPABILITIES OF THE COAST. +</H4> + +<P> +It yet remains for me to state that when Mr. Kent returned to the +schooner, after this irreparable loss, he kept to the south of the +place at which he had crossed the first range with Captain Barker, and +travelled through a valley right across the promontory. He thus +discovered that there was a division in the ranges, through which there +was a direct and level road from the little bay on the northern +extremity of which they had last landed in St. Vincent's Gulf, to the +rocky point of Encounter Bay. The importance of this fact will be +better estimated, when it is known that good anchorage is secured to +small vessels inside the island that lies off the point of Encounter +Bay, which is rendered still safer by a horse shoe reef that forms, as +it were, a thick wall to break the swell of the sea. But this anchorage +is not safe for more than five months in the year. Independently of +these points, however, Mr. Kent remarks, that the spit a little to the +north of Mount Lofty would afford good shelter to minor vessels under +its lee. When the nature of the country is taken into consideration, +and the facility of entering that which lies between the ranges and the +Lake Alexandrina, from the south, and of a direct communication with +the lake itself, the want of an extensive harbour will, in some +measure, be compensated for, more especially when it is known that +within four leagues of Cape Jervis, a port little inferior to Port +Jackson, with a safe and broad entrance, exists at Kangaroo Island. The +sealers have given this spot the name of American Harbour. In it, I am +informed, vessels are completely land-locked, and secure from every +wind. Kangaroo Island is not, however, fertile by any means. It abounds +in shallow lakes filled with salt water during high tides, and which, +by evaporation, yield a vast quantity of salt. +</P> + +<P> +I gathered from the sealers that neither the promontory separating St. +Vincent from Spencer's Gulf, nor the neighbourhood of Port Lincoln, are +other than barren and sandy wastes. They all agree in describing Port +Lincoln itself as a magnificent roadstead, but equally agree as to the +sterility of its shores. It appears, therefore, that the promontory of +Cape Jervis owes its superiority to its natural features; in fact, to +the mountains that occupy its centre, to the debris that has been +washed from them, and to the decomposition of the better description of +its rocks. Such is the case at Illawarra, where the mountains approach +the sea; such indeed is the case every where, at a certain distance +from mountain ranges. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ADAPTION OF THIS PART OF THE COUNTRY FOR COLONISATION. +</H4> + +<P> +From the above account it would appear that a spot has, at length, been +found upon the south coast of New Holland, to which the colonist might +venture with every prospect of success, and in whose valleys the exile +might hope to build for himself and for his family a peaceful and +prosperous home. All who have ever landed upon the eastern shore of St. +Vincent's Gulf, agree as to the richness of its soil, and the abundance +of its pasture. Indeed, if we cast our eyes upon the chart, and examine +the natural features of the country behind Cape Jervis, we shall no +longer wonder at its differing in soil and fertility from the low and +sandy tracks that generally prevail along the shores of Australia. +Without entering largely into the consideration of the more remote +advantages that would, in all human probability, result from the +establishment of a colony, rather than a penal settlement, at St. +Vincent's Gulf, it will be expedient to glance hastily over the +preceding narrative, and, disengaging it from all extraneous matter, to +condense, as much as possible, the information it contains respecting +the country itself; for I have been unable to introduce any passing +remark, lest I should break the thread of an interesting detail. +</P> + +<P> +The country immediately behind Cape Jervis may, strictly speaking, be +termed a promontory, bounded to the west by St. Vincent's Gulf, and to +the east by the lake Alexandrina, and the sandy track separating that +basin from the sea. Supposing a line to be drawn from the parallel of +34 degrees 40 minutes to the eastward, it will strike the Murray river +about 25 miles above the head of the lake, and will clear the ranges, +of which Mount Lofty and Mount Barker are the respective terminations. +This line will cut off a space whose greatest breadth will be 55 miles, +whose length from north to south will be 75, and whose surface exceeds +7 millions of acres; from which if we deduct 2 millions for the +unavailable hills, we shall have 5 millions of acres of land, of rich +soil, upon which no scrub exists, and whose most distant points are +accessible, through a level country on the one hand, and by water on +the other. The southern extremity of the ranges can be turned by that +valley through which Mr. Kent returned to the schooner, after Captain +Barker's death. It is certain, therefore, that this valley not only +secures so grand a point, but also presents a level line of +communication from the small bay immediately to the north of the cape, +to the rocky point of Encounter Bay, at both of which places there is +safe anchorage at different periods of the year. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H4> +HINTS FOR FUTURE EXPEDITIONS. +</H4> + +<P> +The only objection that can be raised to the occupation of this spot, +is the want of an available harbour. Yet it admits of great doubt +whether the contiguity of Kangaroo Island to Cape Jervis, (serving as +it does to break the force of the prevailing winds, as also of the +heavy swell that would otherwise roll direct into the bay,) and the +fact of its possessing a safe and commodious harbour, certainly at an +available distance, does not in a great measure remove the objection. +Certain it is that no port, with the exception of that on the shores of +which the capital of Australia is situated, offers half the convenience +of this, although it be detached between three and four leagues from +the main. +</P> + +<P> +On the other hand it would appear, that there is no place from which at +any time the survey of the more central parts of the continent could be +so effectually carried on; for in a country like Australia, where the +chief obstacle to be apprehended in travelling is the want of water, +the facilities afforded by the Murray and its tributaries, are +indisputable; and I have little doubt that the very centre of the +continent might be gained by a judicious and enterprising expedition. +Certainly it is most desirable to ascertain whether the river I have +supposed to be the Darling be really so or not. I have stated my +objection to depots, but I think that if a party commenced its +operations upon the Murray from the junction upwards, and, after +ascertaining the fact of its ultimate course, turned away to the N.W. +up one of the tributaries of the Murray, with a supply of six months' +provisions, the results would be of the most satisfactory kind, and the +features of the country be wholly developed. I cannot, I think, +conclude this work better than by expressing a hope, that the Colonial +Government will direct such measures to be adopted as may be necessary +for the extension of our geographical knowledge in Australia. The +facilities of fitting out expeditions in New South Wales, render the +expenses of little moment, when compared with the importance of the +object in view; and although I am labouring under the effects of former +attempts, yet would I willingly give such assistance as I could to +carry such an object into effect. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="append1"></A> +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +APPENDIX. +</H2> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +APPENDIX No. I. +</H3> + +<H4> +GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS FOUND TO THE SOUTH-WEST OF PORT JACKSON. +</H4> + +<BR> + +<P> +Considering the nature of the country over which the first expedition +travelled, it could hardly have been expected that its geological +specimens would be numerous. It will appear, however, from the +following list of rocks collected during the second expedition, that +the geological formation of the mountains to the S.W. of Port Jackson +is as various as that to the N.W. of it is mountainous. The specimens +are described not according to their natural order, but in the +succession in which they were found, commencing from Yass Plains, and +during the subsequent stages of the journey. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +Sandstone, Old Red.—Found on various parts of Yass Plains, in contact +with +</P> + +<P> +Limestone, Transition.—Colour dark grey; composes the bed of the Yass +River, and apparently traverses the sandstone formation. Yass Plains +lie 170 miles to the S.W. of Sydney. +</P> + +<P> +Sandstone, Old Red.—Again succeeds the limestone, and continues to the +N.W. to a considerable distance over a poor and scrubby country, +covered for the most part with a dwarf species of Eucalyptus. +</P> + +<P> +Granite.—Colour grey; feldspar, black mica, and quartz: succeeds the +sandstone, and continues to the S.W. as far as the Morumbidgee River, +over an open forest country broken into hill and dale. It is generally +on these granite rocks that the best grazing is found. +</P> + +<P> +Greywacke.—Colour grey, of light hue, or dark, with black specks. +Soft.—Composition of a part of the ranges that form the valley of the +Morumbidgee. +</P> + +<P> +Serpentine.—Colour green of different shades, striped sulphur yellow; +slaty fracture, soft and greasy to the touch. Forms hills of moderate +elevation, of peculiarly sharp spine, resting on quartz. Composition of +most of the ranges opposite the Doomot River on the Morumbidgee, in +lat. 35 degrees 4 minutes and long. 147 degrees 40 minutes. +</P> + +<P> +Quartz.—Colour snow-white; formation of the higher ranges on the left +bank of the Morumbidgee, in the same latitude and longitude as above; +showing in large blocks on the sides of the hills. +</P> + +<P> +Slaty Quartz, with varieties.—Found with the quartz rock, in a state +of decomposition. +</P> + +<P> +Granite.—Succeeds the serpentine, of light colour; feldspar +decomposed; mica, glittering and silvery white. +</P> + +<P> +Sandstone, Old Red.—Composition of the more distant ranges on the +Morumbidgee. Forms abrupt precipices over the river flats; of sterile +appearance, and covered with Banksias and scrub. +</P> + +<P> +Mica Slate.—Colour dark brown, approaching red; mica glittering. The +hills enclosing Pondebadgery Plain at the gorge of the valley of the +Morumbidgee, are composed of this rock. They are succeeded by +</P> + +<P> +Sandstone.—Which rises abruptly from the river in perpendicular +cliffs, of 145 feet in height. +</P> + +<P> +Jasper and quartz.—Colour red and white. Forms the slope of the above +sandstone, and may be considered the outermost of the rocks connected +with the Eastern or Blue Mountain Ranges. It will be remembered that +jasper and quartz were likewise found on a plain near the Darling +River, precisely similar to the above, although occurring at so great a +distance from each other. +</P> + +<P> +Granite.—Light red colour; composition of a small isolated hill, to +all appearance wholly unconnected with the neighbouring ranges. This +specimen is very similar to that found in the bed of New-Year's Creek. +</P> + +<P> +Breccia.—Silicious cement, composed of a variety of pebbles. Formation +of the most WESTERLY of the hills between the Lachlan and Macquarie +Rivers. This conglomerate was also found to compose the minor and most +westerly of the elevations of the more northern interior. +</P> + +<P> +Chrystallised Sulphate of Lime.—Found embedded in the deep alluvial +soil in the banks of the Morumbidgee River, in lat. 34 degrees 30 +minutes S., and long. 144 degrees 55 minutes E. The same substance was +found on the banks of the Darling, in lat. 29 degrees 49 minutes S., +and in long. 145 degrees 18 minutes E. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +A reference to the chart will show that the Morumbidgee, from the first +of the above positions, may be said to have entered the almost dead +level of the interior. No elevation occurs to the westward for several +hundreds of miles. A coarse grit occasionally traversed the beds of the +rivers, and their lofty banks of clay or marl appear to be based on +sandstone and granitic sand. The latter occurs in slabs of four inches +in thickness, divided by a line of saffron-coloured sand, and seems to +have been subjected to fusion, as if the particles or grains had been +cemented together by fusion. +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +The first decided break that takes place in the level of the interior +occurs upon the right bank of the Murray, a little below the junction +of the Rufus with it. A cliff of from 120 to 130 feet in perpendicular +elevation here flanks the river for about 200 yards, when it recedes +from it, and forms a spacious amphitheatre that is occupied by +semicircular hillocks, that partake of the same character as the cliff +itself; the face of which showed the various substances of which it was +composed in horizontal lines, that if prolonged would cut the same +substance in the hillocks. Based upon a soft white sandstone, a bed of +clay formed the lowest part of the cliff; upon this bed of clay, a bed +of chalk reposed; this chalk was superseded by a thick bed of +saponaceous earth, whilst the summit of the cliff was composed of a +bright red sand. Semi-opal and hydrate of silex were found in the +chalk, and some beautiful specimens of brown menelite were collected +from the upper stratum of the cliff. +</P> + +<P> +A little below this singular place, the country again declines, when a +tertiary fossil formation shows itself, which, rising gradually as an +inclined plain, ultimately attains an elevation of 300 feet. This +formation continues to the very coast, since large masses of the rock +were observed in the channel of communication between the lake and the +ocean; and the hills to the left of the channel were based upon it. +This great bank cannot, therefore, average less than from seventy to +ninety miles in width. At its commencement, it strikingly resembled +skulls piled one on the other, as well in colour as appearance. This +effect had been produced by the constant rippling of water against the +rock. The softer parts had been washed away, and the shells (a bed of +Turritella) alone remained. +</P> + +<P> +Plate 1, Figures 1, 2, and 3, represent the selenite formation. +</P> + +<P> +Plate 2, represents a mass of the rock containing numerous kinds of +shells, of which the following are the most conspicuous: +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> + Cardium<BR> + Pectunculus<BR> + Corbula<BR> + Arca<BR> + Conus, and<BR> + Others unknown.<BR> +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR ALIGN="center" WIDTH="20%"> + +<BR> + +<P> +The following is a list of the fossils collected from various parts of +this formation, from which it is evident that a closer examination +would lead to the discovery of numberless species. +</P> + +<BR> + +<PRE> +TUNICATA. + + + PLATE III. + + FIG.1 Eschara celleporacea. + 2 -------- piriformis. + 3 -------- UNNAMED. + + FIG.4 Cellepora echinata. + 5 ---------- escharoides? + 6 Retepora disticha. + 7 -------- vibicata. + 8 Glauconome rhombifera. + All Tertiary in Westphalia and England. + + +RADIATA + + + 9 Scutella. + 10 Spatangus Hoffmanni--Goldfuss. + Tertiary, in Westphalia. + 11 Echinus. + + +CONCHIFERA--BIVALVED SHELLS. + + + Corbula gallica--Paris basin--Tertiary. + Tellina? + Corbis lamellosa--Tertiary--Paris. + Lucina. + Venus (Cytherea) laevigata--ibid. + ------ ---------- obliqua --ibid. + Venus + Cardium?--fragments. + 12 Nucula--such is found in London clay. + 13 Pecten coarctatus?--Placentia. + ------ various?--recent. + 14 ------ species unknown. + Two other Pectens also occur. + Ostrea elongata--Deshayes. + 15 Terebratula. + 16 One cast, genus unknown, perhaps a Cardium. + + +MOLUSCA--UNIVALVED SHELLS. + + + Bulla? Plate II., fig. 2. + FIG.17 Natica--small. + 18 ------ large species. + Dentalium? + 19 Trochus. + 20 Turritella. + ---------- in gyps. + 21 Murex. + 22 Buccinum? + 23 Mitra. + 24 ------ very short. + 25 Cypraea. + 26 Conus. + 27 ------ (Plate II., fig. 3.) + 28 Two, unknown, (Also Plate II, fig. 4.) + The above all appear to belong to the newer tertiary formations. + +[Fig.17 to 27--These genera are scarcely ever, and some of them not at +all, found in any but tertiary formations.] + + A block of coarse red granite forms an island in the centre of the + river near the lake, but is nowhere else visible, although it is very + probably the basis of the surrounding country. +</PRE> + +<BR> + +<H4> +ROCK FORMATION OF THE COAST RANGE OF ST. VINCENT'S GULF. +</H4> + +<P> +Primitive Transition Limestone.—Light grey, striped. Altered in +appearance by volcanic action; occurs on the Ranges north of Cape +Jervis. +</P> + +<P> +Granite.—Colour, red; found on the west side of Encounter Bay. +</P> + +<P> +Brown Spar.—South point of Cape Jervis. +</P> + +<P> +Sandstone, Old Red.—East coast of St. Vincent's Gulf. +</P> + +<P> +Limestone, Transition.—Colour, blue. East Coast of St. Vincent's Gulf. +Formation near the first inlet. Continuing to the base of the Ranges. +</P> + +<P> +Clay Slate.—Composition of the lower part of the Mount Lofty Range. +</P> + +<P> +Granite.—Fine grained, red; forms the higher parts of the Mount Lofty +Range. +</P> + +<P> +Quartz, with Tourmaline.—Lower parts of the Mount Lofty Range. +</P> + +<P> +Limestone Flustra, and their Corallines, probably tertiary.—From the +mouth of the Sturt, on the coast line, nearly abreast of Mount Lofty. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="append2"></A> +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +APPENDIX No. II. +</H3> + +<BR> + +<H4> +OFFICIAL REPORT TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT. +</H4> + +<HR ALIGN="center" WIDTH="60%"> + +<H4> +GOVERNMENT ORDER. +</H4> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +Colonial Secretary's Office, Sydney,<BR> + May 10, 1830.<BR> +</P> + +<P> +His Excellency the Governor has much satisfaction in publishing the +following report of the proceedings of an expedition undertaken for the +purpose of tracing the course of the river "Morumbidgee," and of +ascertaining whether it communicated with the coast forming the +southern boundary of the colony. +</P> + +<P> +The expedition, which was placed under the direction of Captain Sturt, +of his Majesty's 39th Regiment, commenced its progress down the +"Morumbidgee" on the 7th day of January last, having been occupied +twenty-one days in performing the journey from Sydney. +</P> + +<P> +On the 14th January they entered a new river running from east to west, +now called the "Murray," into which the "Morumbidgee" flows. +</P> + +<P> +After pursuing the course of the "Murray" for several days, the +expedition observed another river (supposed to be that which Captain +Sturt discovered on his former expedition), uniting with the "Murray" +which they examined about five miles above the junction. +</P> + +<P> +The expedition again proceeded down the "Murray," and fell in with +another of its tributaries flowing from the south east, which Captain +Sturt has designated the "Lindesay;" and on the 8th February the +"Murray" was found to enter or form a lake, of from fifty to sixty +miles in length, and from thirty to forty in breadth, lying immediately +to the eastward of gulf St. Vincent, and extending to the southward, to +the shore of "Encounter Bay." +</P> + +<P> +Thus has Captain Sturt added largely, and in a highly important degree, +to the knowledge previously possessed of the interior. +</P> + +<P> +His former expedition ascertained the fate of the rivers Macquarie and +Castlereagh, on which occasion he also discovered a river which, there +is every reason to believe, is, in ordinary seasons, of considerable +magnitude. +</P> + +<P> +Should this, as Captain Sturt supposes, prove to be the same river as +that above-mentioned, as uniting with the "Murray," the existence of an +interior water communication for several hundreds of miles, extending +from the northward of "Mount Harris," down to the southern coast of the +colony, will have been established. +</P> + +<P> +It is to be regretted, that circumstances did not permit of a more +perfect examination of the lake, (which has been called "Alexandrina"), +as the immediate vicinage of Gulf St. Vincent furnishes a just ground +of hope that a more practicable and useful communication may be +discovered in that direction, than the channel which leads into +"Encounter Bay." +</P> + +<P> +The opportunity of recording a second time the services rendered to the +colony by Captain Sturt, is as gratifying to the government which +directed the undertaking, as it is creditable to the individual who so +successfully conducted it to its termination.—It is an additional +cause of satisfaction to add, that every one, according to his sphere +of action, has a claim to a proportionate degree of applause. All were +exposed alike to the same privations and fatigue, and every one +submitted with patience, manifesting the most anxious desire for the +success of the expedition. The zeal of Mr. George M'Leay, the companion +of Captain Sturt, when example was so important, could not fail to have +the most salutary effect; and the obedience, steadiness, and good +conduct of the men employed, merit the highest praise. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> +By his Excellency's command, +<BR> +ALEXANDER M'LEAY. +</P> + +<HR ALIGN="center" WIDTH="60%"> + +<H4> +BANKS OF THE MORUMBIDGEE, APRIL 20TH, 1830. +</H4> + +<P> +SIR,—The departure of Mr. George M'Leay for Sydney, who is anxious to +proceed homewards as speedily as possible, affords me an earlier +opportunity than would otherwise have presented itself, by which to +make you acquainted with the circumstance of my return, under the +divine protection, to the located districts; and I do myself the honour +of annexing a brief account of my proceedings since the last +communication for the information of His Excellency the Governor, until +such time as I shall have it in my power to give in a more detailed +report. +</P> + +<P> +On the 7th of January, agreeably to the arrangements which had been +made, I proceeded down the Morumbidgee in the whale boat, with a +complement of six hands, independent of myself and Mr. M'Leay, holding +the skiff in tow. The river, for several days, kept a general W.S.W. +course; it altered little in appearance, nor did any material change +take place in the country upon its banks. The alluvial flats had +occasionally an increased breadth on either side of it, but the line of +reeds was nowhere so extensive as from previous appearances I had been +led to expect. About twelve miles from the depot, we passed a large +creek junction from the N.E. which, from its locality and from the +circumstance of my having been upon it in the direction of them, I +cannot but conclude originates in the marshes of the Lachlan. +</P> + +<P> +On the 11th, the Morumbidgee became much encumbered with fallen timber, +and its current was at times so rapid that I was under considerable +apprehension for the safety of the boats. The skiff had been upset on +the 8th, and, although I could not anticipate such an accident to the +large boat, I feared she would receive some more serious and +irremediable injury. On the 14th, these difficulties increased upon +us.—The channel of the river became more contracted, and its current +more impetuous. We had no sooner cleared one reach, than fresh and +apparently insurmountable dangers presented themselves to us in the +next. I really feared that every precaution would have proved +unavailing against such multiplied embarrassments, and that ere night +we should have possessed only the wrecks of the expedition. From this +state of anxiety, however, we were unexpectedly relieved, by our +arrival at 2 p.m. at the termination of the Morumbidgee; from which we +were launched into a broad and noble river, flowing from E. to W. at +the rate of two and a half knots per hour, over a clear and sandy bed, +of a medium width of from three to four hundred feet. +</P> + +<P> +During the first stages of our journey upon this new river, which +evidently had its rise in the mountains of the S.E., we made rapid +progress to the W.N.W. through an unbroken and uninteresting country of +equal sameness of feature and of vegetation. On the 23rd, as the boats +were proceeding down it, several hundreds of natives made their +appearance upon the right bank, having assembled with premeditated +purposes of violence. I was the more surprised at this show of +hostility, because we had passed on general friendly terms, not only +with those on the Morumbidgee, but of the new river. Now, however, +emboldened by numbers, they seemed determined on making the first +attack, and soon worked themselves into a state of frenzy by loud and +vehement shouting. As I observed that the water was shoaling fast, I +kept in the middle of the stream; and, under an impression that it +would be impossible for me to avoid a conflict, prepared for an +obstinate resistance. But, at the very moment when, having arrived +opposite to a large sand bank, on which they had collected, the +foremost of the blacks had already advanced into the water, and I only +awaited their nearer approach to fire upon them, their impetuosity was +restrained by the most unlooked for and unexpected interference. They +held back of a sudden, and allowed us to pass unmolested. The boat, +however, almost immediately grounded on a shoal that stretched across +the river, over which she was with some difficulty hauled into deeper +water,—when we found ourselves opposite to a large junction from the +eastward, little inferior to the river itself. Had I been aware of this +circumstance, I should have been the more anxious with regard to any +rupture with the natives, and I was now happy to find that most of them +had laid aside their weapons and had crossed the junction, it appearing +that they had previously been on a tongue of land formed by the two +streams. I therefore landed among them to satisfy their curiosity and +to distribute a few presents before I proceeded up it. We were obliged +to use the four oars to stem the current against us; but, as soon as we +had passed the mouth, got into deeper water, and found easier pulling, +The parallel in which we struck it, and the direction from which it +came, combined to assure me that this could be no other than the +"Darling." To the distance of two miles it retained a breadth of one +hundred yards and a depth of twelve feet. Its banks were covered with +verdure, and the trees overhanging them were of finer and larger growth +than those on the new river by which we had approached it. Its waters +had a shade of green, and were more turbid than those of its +neighbours, but they were perfectly sweet to the taste. +</P> + +<P> +Having satisfied myself on those points on which I was most anxious, we +returned to the junction to examine it more closely. +</P> + +<P> +The angle formed by the Darling with the new river is so acute, that +neither can be said to be tributary to the other; but more important +circumstances, upon which it is impossible for me to dwell at the +present moment, mark them as distinct rivers, which have been formed by +Nature for the same purposes, in remote and opposite parts of the +island. Not having as yet given a name to the latter, I now availed +myself of the opportunity of complying with the known wishes of His +Excellency the Governor, and, at the same time, in accordance with my +own feelings as a soldier I distinguished it by that of the "Murray." +</P> + +<P> +It had been my object to ascertain the decline of the vast plain +through which the Murray flows, that I might judge of the probable fall +of the waters of the interior; but by the most attentive observation I +could not satisfy myself upon the point. The course of the Darling now +confirmed my previous impression that it was to the south, which +direction it was evident the Murray also, in the subsequent stages of +our journey down it, struggled to preserve; from which it was thrown by +a range of minor elevations into a more westerly one. We were carried +as far as 139 degrees 40 minutes of longitude, without descending below +34 degrees in point of latitude; in consequence of which I expected +that the river would ultimately discharge itself, either into St. +Vincent's Gulf or that of Spencer, more especially as lofty ranges were +visible in the direction of them from the summit of the hills behind +our camp, on the 2nd of February, which I laid down as the coast line +bounding them. +</P> + +<P> +A few days prior to the 2nd of February, we passed under some cliffs of +partial volcanic origin, and had immediately afterwards entered a +limestone country of the most singular formation. The river, although +we had passed occasional rapids of the most dangerous kind, had +maintained a sandy character from our first acquaintance with it to the +limestone division. It now forced itself through a glen of that rock of +half a mile in width, frequently striking precipices of more than two +hundred feet perpendicular elevation, in which coral and fossil remains +were plentifully embedded. On the 3rd February it made away to the +eastward of south, in reaches of from two to four miles in length. It +gradually lost its sandy bed, and became deep, still, and turbid; the +glen expanded into a valley, and the alluvial flats, which had hitherto +been of inconsiderable size, became proportionally extensive. The +Murray increased in breadth to more than four hundred yards, with a +depth of twenty feet of water close into the shore, and in fact formed +itself into a safe and navigable stream for any vessels of the minor +class. On the 6th the cliffs partially ceased, and on the 7th they gave +place to undulating and picturesque hills, beneath which thousands of +acres of the richest flats extended, covered, however, with reeds, and +apparently subject to overflow at any unusual rise of the river. +</P> + +<P> +It is remarkable that the view from the hills was always confined.—We +were apparently running parallel to a continuation of the ranges we had +seen on the 2nd, but they were seldom visible. The country generally +seemed darkly wooded, and had occasional swells upon it, but it was one +of no promise; the timber, chiefly box and pine, being of a poor +growth, and its vegetation languid. On the 8th the hills upon the left +wore a bleak appearance, and the few trees upon them were cut down as +if by the prevailing winds. At noon we could not observe any land at +the extremity of a reach we had just entered; some gentle hills still +continued to form the left lank of the river, but the right was hid +from us by high reeds. I consequently landed to survey the country from +the nearest eminence, and found that we were just about to enter an +extensive lake which stretched away to the S.W., the line of water +meeting the horizon in that direction. Some tolerably lofty ranges were +visible to the westward at the distance of forty miles, beneath which +that shore was lost in haze. A hill, which I prejudged to be Mount +Lofty, bearing by compass S. 141 degrees W. More to the northward, the +country was low and unbacked by any elevations. A bold promontory, +which projected into the lake at the distance of seven leagues, ended +the view to the south along the eastern shore; between which and the +river the land also declined. The prospect altogether was extremely +gratifying, and the lake appeared to be a fitting reservoir for the +whole stream which had led us to it. +</P> + +<P> +In the evening we passed the entrance; but a strong southerly wind +heading us, we did not gain more than nine miles. In the morning it +shifted to the N.E. where we stood out for the promontory on a S.S.W. +course. At noon we were abreast of it, when a line of sand hummocks was +ahead, scarcely visible in consequence of the great refraction about +them; but an open sea behind us from the N.N.W. to the N.N.E. points of +the compass. A meridian altitude observed here, placed us in 35 degrees +25 minutes 15 seconds S. lat.—At 1, I changed our course a little to +the westward, and at 4 p.m. entered an arm of the lake leading W.S.W. +On the point, at the entrance, some natives had assembled, but I could +not communicate with them. They were both painted and armed, and +evidently intended to resist our landing. Wishing, however, to gain +some information from them, I proceeded a short distance below their +haunt, and landed for the night, in hopes that, seeing us peaceably +disposed, they would have approached the tents; but as they kept aloof, +we continued our journey in the morning. The water, which had risen ten +inches during the night, had fallen again in the same proportion, and +we were stopped by shoals shortly after starting. In hopes that the +return of tide would have enabled us to float over them, we waited for +it very patiently, but were ultimately obliged to drag the boat across +a mud-flat of more than a quarter of a mile into deeper water; but, +after a run of about twenty minutes, were again checked by sand banks. +My endeavours to push beyond a certain point were unsuccessful, and I +was at length under the necessity of landing upon the south shore for +the night. Some small hummocks were behind us, on the other side of +which I had seen the ocean from our morning's position; and whilst the +men were pitching the tents, walked over them in company with Mr. +M'Leay to the sea shore, having struck the coast at Encounter Bay, Cape +Jervis, bearing by compass S. 81 degrees W. distant between three and +four leagues, and Kangaroo Island S.E. extremity S. 60 degrees W. +distant from nine to ten. +</P> + +<P> +Thirty-two days had elapsed since we had left the depot, and I +regretted in this stage of our journey, that I could not with prudence +remain an hour longer on the coast than was necessary for me to +determine the exit of the lake. From the angle of the channel on which +we were, a bright sand-hill was visible at about nine miles distance to +the E.S.E.; which, it struck me, was the eastern side of the passage +communicating with the ocean. Having failed in our attempts to proceed +further in the boat, and the appearance of the shoals at low water +having convinced me of the impracticability of it, I determined on an +excursion along the sea-shore to the southward and eastward, in anxious +hopes that it would be a short one; for as we had had a series of winds +from the S.W. which had now changed to the opposite quarter, I feared +we should have to pull across the lake in our way homewards. I left the +camp therefore at an early hour, in company with Mr. M'Leay and Fraser, +and at day-break arrived opposite to the sand-bank I have mentioned. +Between us and it the entrance into the back water ran. The passage is +at all periods of the tide rather more than a quarter of a mile in +width, and is of sufficient depth for a boat to enter, especially on +the off side; but a line of dangerous breakers in the bay will always +prevent an approach to it from the sea, except in the calmest weather, +whilst the bay itself will always be a hazardous place for any vessels +to enter under any circumstances. +</P> + +<P> +Having, however, satisfactorily concluded our pursuit, we retraced our +steps to the camp, and again took the following bearings as we left the +beach, the strand trending E.S.E. 1/2 E.:— +</P> + +<PRE> + Kangaroo Island, S.E. angle S. 60 degrees W. + Low rocky point of Cape Jervis S. 81 degrees W. + Round Hill in centre of Range S. 164 degrees W. + Camp, distant one mile S. 171 degrees W. + Mount Lofty, distant forty miles N. 9 degrees E. +</PRE> + +<P> +Before setting sail, a bottle was deposited between four and five feet +deep in a mound of soft earth and shells, close to the spot on which +the tent had stood, which contained a paper of the names of the party, +together with a simple detail of our arrival and departure. +</P> + +<P> +It appeared that the good fortune, which had hitherto attended us was +still to continue, for the wind which had been contrary, chopped round +to the S.W., and ere sunset we were again in the mouth of the river, +having run from fifty to sixty miles under as much canvass as the boat +would bear, and with a heavy swell during the greater part of the day. +</P> + +<P> +The lake which has thus terminated our journey, is from fifty to sixty +miles in length, and from thirty to forty in width. With such an +expanse of water, I am correct in stating its medium depth at four +feet. There is a large bight in it to the S.E. and a beautiful and +extensive bay to the N.W. At about seven miles from the mouth of the +river, its waters are brackish, and at twenty-one miles they are quite +salt, whilst seals frequent the lower parts. Considering this lake to +be of sufficient importance, and in anticipation that its shores will, +during her reign, if not at an earlier period, be peopled by some +portion of her subjects, I have called it, in well-meant loyalty, "The +Lake Alexandrina." +</P> + +<P> +It is remarkable that the Murray has few tributaries below the Darling. +It receives one, however, of considerable importance from the S.E., to +which I have given the name of the "Lindesay," as a mark of respect to +my commanding-officer, and in remembrance of the many acts of kindness +I have received at his hands. +</P> + +<P> +Having dwelt particularly on the nature of the country through which +the expedition has passed in the pages of my journal, it may be +unnecessary for me to enter into any description of it in this place, +further than to observe, that the limestone continued down to the very +coast, and that although the country in the neighbourhood of the Lake +Alexandrina must, from local circumstances, be rich in point of soil, +the timber upon it is of stunted size, and that it appears to have +suffered from drought, though not to the same extent with the eastern +coast. It is evident, however, that its vicinity to high lands does not +altogether exempt it from such periodical visitations; still I have no +doubt that my observations upon it will convince His Excellency the +Governor, that it is well worthy of a closer, and more attentive +examination, than I had it in my power to make. +</P> + +<P> +In a geographical point of view, I am happy to believe that the result +of this expedition has been conclusive; and that, combined with the +late one, it has thrown much light upon the nature of the interior of +the vast Island; that the decline of waters, as far as the parallel of +139 degrees E., is to the south, and that the Darling is to the N.E. as +the Murray is to the S.E. angle of the coast, the main channel by which +the waters of the central ranges are thrown or discharged into one +great reservoir. +</P> + +<P> +Our journey homewards was only remarkable for its labour: in +conclusion, therefore, it remains for me to add that we reached the +depot on the 23rd of March. +</P> + +<P> +Our sugar failed us on the 18th of February, and our salt provisions, +in consequence of the accident which happened to the skiff, on the 8th +of March; so that from the above period we were living on a reduced +ration of flour; and as we took few fish, and were generally +unsuccessful with our guns, the men had seldom more than their bread to +eat. +</P> + +<P> +I regretted to observe that they were daily falling off, and that +although unremitting in their exertions they were well nigh exhausted, +ere we reached the Morumbidgee. +</P> + +<P> +We were from sunrise to five o'clock on the water, and from the day +that we left the depot to that of our return we never rested upon our +oars. We were thirty-nine days gaining the depot from the coast, +against a strong current in both rivers, being seven more than it took +us to go down. From the depot to this station we had seventeen days +hard pulling, making a total of eighty-eight, during which time we +could not have travelled over less than 2000 miles. I was under the +necessity of stopping short on the 10th instant, and of detaching two +men for the drays, which happily arrived on the 17th, on which day our +stock of flour failed us. Had I not adopted this plan, the men would +have become too weak to have pulled up to Pondebadgery, and we should +no doubt have suffered some privations. +</P> + +<P> +This detail will, I am sure, speak more in favour of the men composing +the party than anything I can say. I would most respectfully recommend +them all to His Excellency's notice; and I beg to assure him that, +during the whole of this arduous journey, they were cheerful, zealous, +and obedient. They had many harassing duties to perform, and their +patience and temper were often put to severe trials by the natives, of +whom we could not have seen fewer than 4000 on the Murray alone. +</P> + +<P> +I am to refer His Excellency the Governor to Mr. M'Leay for any more +immediate information he may require,—to whom I stand indebted on many +points—and not less in the anxiety he evinced for the success of the +undertaking, than in the promptitude with which he assisted in the +labours attendant on our return, and his uniform kindness to the men. +</P> + +<P CLASS="noindent"> + I have the honour to subscribe myself,<BR> + Sir,<BR> + Your most obedient humble Servant,<BR> + CHARLES STURT,<BR> + Captain of the 39th Regt.<BR> +<BR> +The Hon. the Colonial Secretary. +</P> + +<BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +END OF VOLUME II +</H3> + +<BR><BR><BR><BR> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Two Expeditions in the Interior of +Southern Australia, Volume II, by Charles Sturt + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWO EXPEDITIONS--SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA *** + +***** This file should be named 4329-h.htm or 4329-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/2/4329/ + +Produced by Col Choat. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Two Expeditions in the Interior of Southern Australia, Volume II + +Author: Charles Sturt + +Release Date: June 29, 2009 [EBook #4329] +Release Date: August, 2003 +First Posted: January 8, 2002 +Last Updated: July 28, 2002 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWO EXPEDITIONS--SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA *** + + + + +Produced by Col Choat. HTML version by Al Haines. + + + + + + + + + +TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA, + +VOLUME II + + +by + +Charles Sturt + + + + + +TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA DURING THE +YEARS 1828, 1829, 1830, 1831 WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOIL, CLIMATE AND +GENERAL RESOURCES OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES. + +IN TWO VOLUMES + +VOLUME II. + + +"For though most men are contented only to see a river as it runs by +them, and talk of the changes in it as they happen; when it is +troubled, or when clear; when it drowns the country in a flood, or +forsakes it in a drought: yet he that would know the nature of the +water, and the causes of those accidents (so as to guess at their +continuance or return), must find out its source, and observe with what +strength it rises, what length it runs, and how many small streams fall +in, and feed it to such a height, as make it either delightful or +terrible to the eye, and useful or dangerous to the country about +it."...SIR WILLIAM TEMPLE'S NETHERLANDS. + + + + + +CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME + +EXPEDITION DOWN THE MORUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY RIVERS, IN 1829, 1830 AND +1831. + + +CHAPTER I. + +Introductory--Remarks on the results of the former Expedition--The +fitting out of another determined on--Its objects--Provisions, +accoutrements, and retinue--Paper furnished by Mr. Kent--Causes that +have prevented the earlier appearance of the present work. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Commencement of the expedition in November, 1829.--Joined by Mr. George +M'Leay--Appearance of the party--Breadalbane Plains--Hospitality of Mr. +O'Brien--Yass Plains--Hill of Pouni--Path of a hurricane--Character of +the country between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee--Appearance of that +river--Junction of the Dumot with it--Crossing and recrossing--Geological +character and general aspect of the country--Plain of Pondebadgery--Few +natives seen. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Character of the Morumbidgee where it issues from the hilly +country--Appearance of approach to swamps--Hamilton Plains--Intercourse +with the natives--Their appearance, customs, &c.--Change in the +character of the river--Mirage--Dreariness of the country--Ride towards +the Lachlan river--Two boats built and launched on the Morumbidgee; and +the drays, with part of the men sent back to Goulburn Plains. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Embarkation of the party in the boats, and voyage down the +Morumbidgee--The skiff swamped by striking on a sunken tree--Recovery +of boat and its loading--Region of reeds--Dangers of the +navigation--Contraction of the channel--Reach the junction of a large +river--Intercourse with the natives on its banks--Character of the +country below the junction of the rivers--Descent of a dangerous +rapid--Warlike demonstrations of a tribe of natives--Unexpected +deliverance from a conflict with them--Junction of another river--Give +the name of the "Murray" to the principal stream. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Character of the country--Damage of provisions--Adroitness of the +natives in catching fish--The skiff broken up--Stream from the +North-East supposed to be the Darling--Change of country in descending +the river--Intercourse with the natives--Prevalence of loathsome +diseases among them--Apparent populousness of the country--Junction of +several small streams--The Rufus, the Lindesay, &c.--Rainy and +tempestuous weather--Curious appearance of the banks--Troublesomeness +of the natives--Inhospitable and desolate aspect of the +country--Condition of the men--Change in the geological character of +the country--The river passes through a valley among hills. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Improvement in the aspect of the country--Increase of the river--Strong +westerly gales--Chronometer broken--A healthier tribe of +natives--Termination of the Murray in a large lake--Its extent and +environs--Passage across it--Hostile appearance of the natives--Beautiful +scenery--Channel from the lake to the sea at Encounter Bay--Reach the +beach--Large flocks of water fowl--Curious refraction--State of +provisions--Embarrassing situation--Inspection of the channel to the +ocean--Weak condition of the men--Difficulties of the return. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Valley of the Murray--Its character and capabilities--Laborious +progress up the river--Accident to the boat--Perilous collision with +the natives--Turbid current of the Rufus--Passage of the +Rapids--Assisted by the natives--Dangerous intercourse with +them--Re-enter the Morumbidgee--Verdant condition of its +banks--Nocturnal encounter with the natives--Interesting manifestation +of feeling in one family--Reach the spot where the party had embarked +on the river--Men begin to fail entirely--Determine to send two men +forward for relief--Their return--Excursion on horseback--Reach +Pondebadgery Plain, and meet the supplies from the colony--Cannibalism +of the natives--Return to Sydney--Concluding remarks. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Environs of the lake Alexandrina--Appointment of Capt. Barker to make a +further survey of the coast near Encounter Bay--Narrative of his +proceedings--Mount Lofty, Mount Barker, and beautiful country +adjacent--Australian salmon--Survey of the coast--Outlet of lake to the +sea--Circumstances that led to the slaughter of Capt. Barker by the +natives--His character--Features of this part of the country and +capabilities of its coasts--Its adaptation for colonization--Suggestions +for the furtherance of future Expeditions. + + +APPENDIX. + + No. I. Geological Specimens found to the south-west of Port Jackson + No. II. Official Report to the Colonial Government + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME + +(Not included in this etext) + + View on the Morumbidgee River + Junction of the supposed Darling with the Murray + Palaeornis Melanura, or Black Tailed Paroquet + Pomatorhinus Temporalis + Pomatorhinus Superciliosus + Chart of Cape Jervis, and Encounter Bay + Mass of Fossils of the Tertiary Formation + Bulla + Conus + Genus Unknown + Chrystallized Selenite + Selenite + Single Fossils of the Tertiary Formation + + + + +EXPEDITION DOWN THE MORUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY RIVERS, IN 1829, 1830 AND +1831. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Introductory + +Remarks on the results of the former Expedition--The fitting out of +another determined on--Its objects--Provisions, accoutrements, and +retinue--Paper furnished by Mr. Kent--Causes that have prevented the +earlier appearance of the present work. + + +OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION. + +The expedition of which we have just detailed the proceedings was so +far satisfactory in its results, that it not only set at rest the +hypothesis of the existence of an internal shoal sea in southern +Australia, and ascertained the actual termination of the rivers it had +been directed to trace, but also added very largely to our knowledge of +the country considerably to the westward of former discoveries. And +although no land had been traversed of a fertile description of +sufficient extent to invite the settler, the fact of a large river such +as the Darling lying at the back of our almost intertropical +settlements, gave a fresh importance to the distant interior. It was +evident that this river was the chief drain for carrying off the waters +falling westerly from the eastern coast, and as its course indicated a +decline of country diametrically opposite to that which had been +calculated upon, it became an object of great importance to ascertain +its further direction. Had not the saline quality of its waters been +accounted for, by the known existence of brine springs in its bed, it +would have been natural to have supposed that it communicated with some +mediterranean sea; but, under existing circumstances, it remained to be +proved whether this river held on a due south course, or whether it +ultimately turned westerly, and ran into the heart of the interior. In +order fully to determine this point, it would be necessary to regain it +banks, so far below the parallel to which it had been traced as to +leave no doubt of its identity; but it was difficult to fix upon a plan +for approaching that central stream without suffering from the want of +water, since it could hardly be expected that the Lachlan would afford +such means, as it was reasonable to presume that its termination was +very similar to that of the Macquarie. The attention of the government +was, consequently, fixed upon the Morumbidgee, a river stated to be of +considerable size and of impetuous current. Receiving its supplies from +the lofty ranges behind Mount Dromedary, it promised to hold a longer +course than those rivers which, depending on periodical rains alone for +existence, had been found so soon to exhaust themselves. + +PREPARATIONS. + +The fitting out of another expedition was accordingly determined upon; +and about the end of September 1829, I received the Governor's +instructions to make the necessary preparations for a second descent +into the interior, for the purpose of tracing the Morumbidgee, or such +rivers as it might prove to be connected with, as far as practicable. +In the event of failure in this object, it was hoped that an attempt to +regain the banks of the Darling on a N.W. course from the point at +which the expedition might be thwarted in its primary views, would not +be unattended with success. Under any circumstances, however, by +pursuing these measures, an important part of the colony would +necessarily be traversed, of which the features were as yet altogether +unknown. + +It became my interest and my object to make the expedition as complete +as possible, and, as far as in me lay, to provide for every +contingency: and as it appeared to me that, in all likelihood, we +should in one stage or other of our journey have to trust entirely to +water conveyance, I determined on taking a whale-boat, whose dimensions +and strength should in some measure be proportioned to the service +required. I likewise constructed a small still for the distillation of +water, in the event of our finding the water of the Darling salt, when +we should reach its banks. The whale-boat, after being fitted, was +taken to pieces for more convenient carriage, as has been more +particularly detailed in the last chapter of the preceding volume. + +So little danger had been apprehended from the natives in the former +journey, that three firelocks had been considered sufficient for our +defence. On the present occasion, however, I thought it adviseable to +provide arms for each individual. + +Mr. Hume declined accompanying me, as the harvest was at hand. Mr. +George M'Leay therefore supplied his place, rather as a companion than +as an assistant; and of those who accompanied me down the banks of the +Macquarie, I again selected Harris (my body servant), Hopkinson, and +Fraser. + +MR. KENT'S REPORT. + +The concluding chapter of this volume, relative to the promontory of +St. Vincent, or Cape Jervis, has been furnished me by the kindness of +Mr. Kent, who accompanied the lamented officer to whom the further +exploration of that part of coast unhappily proved fatal. There is a +melancholy coincidence between Captain Barker's death and that of +Captain Cook, which cannot fail to interest the public, as the +information that has been furnished will call for their serious +consideration. I shall leave for their proper place, the remarks I have +to offer upon it, since my motive in these prefatory observations has +been, to carry the reader forward to that point at which he will have +to view the proceedings of the expedition alone, in order the more +satisfactorily to arrive at their results. And, although he must expect +a considerable portion of dry reading in the following pages, I have +endeavoured to make the narrative of events, some of which are +remarkably striking, as interesting as possible. + +REMARKS ON THE PRESENT WORK; DELIVERANCE FROM DANGERS. + +It only remains for me to refer the reader to the concluding chapter of +the preceding volume, for such general information as I have been +enabled to furnish upon the nature of the services on which I was +employed, and on the manner of conducting similar expeditions. Indeed, +I trust that this book (whatever be its defects) will be found to +contain much valuable information of a practical character, and I may +venture to affirm, that it will give a true description of the country, +and of the various other subjects of which it treats. + +Notwithstanding that I have in my dedication alluded to the causes that +prevented the earlier appearance of this work, I feel it due both to +myself and the public here to state, that during these expeditions my +health had suffered so much, that I was unable to bear up against the +effects of exposure, bodily labour, poverty of diet, and the anxiety of +mind to which I was subjected. A residence on Norfolk Island, under +peculiarly harassing circumstances, completed that which the above +causes had commenced; and, after a succession of attacks, I became +totally blind, and am still unable either to read what I pen, or to +venture abroad without an attendant. When it is recollected, that I +have been unassisted in this work in any one particular, I hope some +excuse will be found for its imperfections. A wish to contribute to the +public good led me to undertake those journeys which have cost me so +much. The same feeling actuates me in recording their results; and I +have the satisfaction to know, that my path among a large and savage +population was a bloodless one; and that my intercourse with them was +such as to lessen the danger to future adventurers upon such hazardous +enterprises, and to give them hope where I had so often despaired. +Something more powerful, than human foresight or human prudence, +appeared to avert the calamities and dangers with which I and my +companions were so frequently threatened; and had it not been for the +guidance and protection we received from the Providence of that good +and all-wise Being to whose care we committed ourselves, we should, ere +this, have ceased to rank among the number of His earthly creatures. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +Commencement of the expedition in November, 1829.--Joined by Mr. George +M'Leay--Appearance of the party--Breadalbane Plains--Hospitality of Mr. +O'Brien--Yass Plains--Hill of Pouni--Path of a hurricane--Character of +the country between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee--Appearance of that +river--Junction of the Dumot with it--Crossing and recrossing--Geological +character and general aspect of the country--Plain of Pondebadgery--Few +natives seen. + + +The expedition which traversed the marshes of the Macquarie, left +Sydney on the 10th day of Nov. 1828. That destined to follow the waters +of the Morumbidgee, took its departure from the same capital on the 3rd +of the same month in the ensuing year. Rain had fallen in the interval, +but not in such quantities as to lead to the apprehension that it had +either influenced or swollen the western streams. It was rather +expected that the winter falls would facilitate the progress of the +expedition, and it was hoped that, as the field of its operations would +in all probability be considerably to the south of the parallel of Port +Jackson, the extreme heat to which the party and the animals had been +exposed on the former journey, would be less felt on the present +occasion. + +As there was no Government establishment to the S.W. at which I could +effect any repairs, or recruit my supplies, as I had done at Wellington +Valley, the expedition, when it left Sydney, was completed in every +branch, and was so fully provided with every necessary implement and +comfort, as to render any further aid, even had such been attainable, +in a great measure unnecessary. The Governor had watched over my +preparations with a degree of anxiety that evidenced the interest he +felt in the expedition, and his arrangements to ensure, as far as +practicable, our being met on our return, in the event of our being in +distress, were equally provident and satisfactory. It was not, however, +to the providing for our wants in the interior alone that His +Excellency's views were directed, but orders were given to hold a +vessel in readiness, to be dispatched at a given time to St. Vincent's +Gulf, in case we should ultimately succeed in making the south coast in +its neighbourhood. + +LEAVE SYDNEY. + +The morning on which I left Sydney a second time, under such doubtful +circumstances, was perfectly serene and clear. I found myself at 5 a.m. +of that delightful morning leading my horses through the gates of those +barracks whose precincts I might never again enter, and whose inmates I +might never again behold assembled in military array. Yet, although the +chance of misfortune flashed across my mind, I was never lighter at +heart, or more joyous in spirit. It appeared to me that the stillness +and harmony of nature influenced my feelings on the occasion, and my +mind forgot the storms of life, as nature at that moment seemed to have +forgotten the tempests that sometimes agitate her. + +APPEARANCE OF THE PARTY. + +I proceeded direct to the house of my friend Mr. J. Deas Thomson, who +had agreed to accompany me to Brownlow Hill, a property belonging to +Mr. M'Leay, the Colonial Secretary, where his son, Mr. George M'Leay, +was to join the expedition. As soon as we had taken a hasty breakfast, +I went to the carters' barracks to superintend the first loading of the +animals. Mr. Murray, the superintendent, had arranged every article so +well, and had loaded the drays so compactly that I had no trouble, and +little time was lost in saddling the pack animals. At a quarter before +7 the party filed through the turnpike-gate, and thus commenced its +journey with the greatest regularity. I have the scene, even at this +distance of time, vividly impressed upon my mind, and I have no doubt +the kind friend who was near me on the occasion, bears it as strongly +on his recollection. My servant Harris, who had shared my wanderings +and had continued in my service for eighteen years, led the advance, +with his companion Hopkinson. Nearly abreast of them the eccentric +Fraser stalked along wholly lost in thought. The two former had laid +aside their military habits, and had substituted the broad brimmed hat +and the bushman's dress in their place, but it was impossible to guess +how Fraser intended to protect himself from the heat or the damp, so +little were his habiliments suited for the occasion. He had his gun +over his shoulder, and his double shot belt as full as it could be of +shot, although there was not a chance of his expending a grain during +the day. Some dogs Mr. Maxwell had kindly sent me followed close at his +heels, as if they knew his interest in them, and they really seemed as +if they were aware that they were about to exchange their late +confinement for the freedom of the woods. The whole of these formed a +kind of advanced guard. At some distance in the rear the drays moved +slowly along, on one of which rode the black boy mentioned in my former +volume, and behind them followed the pack animals. Robert Harris, whom +I had appointed to superintend the animals generally, kept his place +near the horses, and the heavy Clayton, my carpenter, brought up the +rear. I shall not forget the interest Thomson appeared to take in a +scene that must certainly have been new to him. Our progress was not +checked by the occurrence of a single accident, nor did I think it +necessary to remain with the men after we had gained that turn which, +at about four miles from Sydney, branches off to the left, and leads +direct to Liverpool. From this Point my companion and I pushed forward, +in order to terminate a fifty miles' ride a little sooner than we +should have done at the leisurely pace we had kept during the early +part of our journey. We remained in Liverpool for a short time, to +prepare the commissariat office for the reception, and to ensure the +accommodation, of the party; and reached Brownlow Hill a little after +sunset. + +LIVERPOOL-GOULBURN PLAINS. + +As I have already described the country on this line of road as far us +Goulburn Plains, it will not be considered necessary that I should +again notice its features with minuteness. + +WALLANDILLY-TYRANNA. + +The party arrived at Glendarewel, the farm attached to Brownlow Hill, +on the 5th. I resumed my journey alone on the 8th. M'Leay had still +some few arrangements to make, so that I dispensed with his immediate +attendance. He overtook me, however, sooner than I expected, on the +banks of the Wallandilly. I had encamped under the bluff end of +Cookbundoon, and, having been disappointed in getting bearings when +crossing the Razor Back, I hoped that I should be enabled to connect a +triangle from the summit of Cookbundoon, or to secure bearings of some +prominent hill to the south. I found the brush, however, so thick on +the top of the mountain, that I could obtain no satisfactory view, and +and M'Leay, who accompanied me, agreed with me in considering that we +were but ill repaid for the hot scramble we had had. Crossing the +western extremity of Goulburn Plains on the 15th, we encamped on a +chain of ponds behind Doctor Gibson's residence at Tyranna, and as I +had some arrangements to make with that gentleman, I determined to give +both the men and animals a day's rest. I availed myself of Doctor +Gibson's magazines to replace such of my provisions as I had expended, +as I found that I could do so without putting him to any inconvenience; +and I added two of his men to the party, intending to send them back, +in case of necessity, or, when we should have arrived at that point +from which it might appear expedient to forward an account of my +progress and ultimate views, for the governor's information. + +On the 17th we struck the tents, and, crossing the chain of ponds near +which they had been pitched, entered a forest track, that gave place to +barren stony ridges of quartz formation. These continued for six or +seven miles, in the direction of Breadalbane Plains, upon which we were +obliged to stop, as we should have had some difficulty in procuring +either water or food, within any moderate distance beyond them. The +water, indeed, that we were obliged to content ourselves with was by no +means good. Breadalbane Plains are of inconsiderable extent, and are +surrounded by ridges, the appearance of which is not very promising. +Large white masses of quartz rock lie scattered over them, amongst +trees of stunted growth. Mr. Redall's farm was visible at the further +extremity of the plains from that by which we had entered them. It +would appear that these plains are connected with Goulburn Plains by a +narrow valley, that was too wet for the drays to have traversed. + +BREADALBANE PLAINS. + +Doctor Gibson had kindly accompanied us to Breadalbane Plains. On the +morning of the 18th he returned to Tyranna, and we pursued our journey, +keeping mostly on a W.S.W. course. From the barren hills over which we +passed, on leaving the plains, we descended upon an undulating country, +and found a change of rock, as well as of vegetation, upon it. Granite +and porphyry constituted its base. An open forest, on which the +eucalyptus mannifera alone prevailed, lay on either side of us, and +although the soil was coarse, and partook in a great measure of the +decomposition of the rock it covered, there was no deficiency of grass. +On the contrary, this part of the interior is decidedly well adapted +for pasturing cattle. + +THE LORN. + +About 1 p.m. we passed Mr. Hume's station, with whom I remained for a +short time. He had fixed his establishment on the banks of the Lorn, a +small river, issuing from the broken country near Lake George, and now +ascertained to be one of the largest branches of the Lachlan River. We +had descended a barren pass of stringy bark scrub, on sandstone rock, a +little before we reached Mr. Hume's station, but around it the same, +open forest tract again prevailed. We crossed the Lorn, at 2 o'clock, +leaving Mr. Broughton's farm upon our left, and passed through a broken +country, which was very far from being deficient in pasture. We +encamped on the side of a water-course, about 4 o'clock, having +travelled about fifteen miles. + +On the 19th, we observed no change in the soil or aspect of the +country, for the first five miles. The eucalyptus mannifera was the +most prevalent of the forest trees, and certainly its presence +indicated a more flourishing state in the minor vegetation. At about +five miles, however, from where we had slept, sandstone reappeared, and +with it the barren scrub that usually grows upon a sandy and +inhospitable soil. One of the drays was upset in its progress down a +broken pass, where the road had been altogether neglected, and it was +difficult to avoid accidents. Fortunately we suffered no further than +in the delay that the necessity of unloading the dray, and reloading +it, occasioned. Mr. O'Brien, an enterprising settler, who had pushed +his flocks to the banks of the Morumbidgee, and who was proceeding to +visit his several stations, overtook us in the midst of our troubles. +We had already passed each other frequently on the road, but he now +preceded me to his establishment at Yass; at which I proposed remaining +for a day. We stopped about three miles short of the plains for the +night, at the gorge of the pass through which we had latterly been +advancing, and had gradually descended to a more open country. From the +place at which we were temporarily delayed, and which is not +inappropriately called the Devil's Pass, the road winds about between +ranges, differing in every respect from any we had as yet noticed. The +sides of the hills were steeper, and their summits sharper, than any we +had crossed. They were thickly covered with eucalypti and brush, and, +though based upon sandstone, were themselves of a schistose formation. + +YASS PLAINS. + +Yharr or Yass Plains were discovered by Mr. Hovel, and Mr. Hume, the +companion of my journey down the Macquarie, in 1828. They take their +name from the little river that flows along their north and north-west +boundaries. They are surrounded on every side by forests, and excepting +to the W.N.W., as a central point, by hill. Undulating, but naked +themselves, they have the appearance of open downs, and are most +admirably adapted for sheep-walks, not only in point of vegetation, but +also, because their inequalities prevent their becoming swampy during +the rainy season. They are from nine to twelve miles in length, and +from five to seven in breadth, and although large masses of sandstone +are scattered over them, a blue secondary limestone composes the +general bed of the river, that was darker in colour and more compact +than I had remarked the same kind of rock, either at Wellington Valley, +or in the Shoal Haven Gully. I have no doubt that Yass Plains will ere +long be wholly taken up as sheep-walks, and that their value to the +grazier will in a great measure counterbalance its distance from the +coast, or, more properly speaking, from the capital. Sheep I should +imagine would thrive uncommonly well upon these plains, and would +suffer less from distempers incidental to locality and to climate, than +in many parts of the colony over which they are now wandering in +thousands. And if the plains themselves do not afford extensive arable +tracts, there is, at least, sufficient good land near the river to +supply the wants of a numerous body of settlers. + +HOSPITALITY OF MR. O'BRIEN. + +We left Mr. O'Brien's station on the morning of the 21st, and, +agreeably to his advice, determined on gaining the Morumbidgee, by a +circuit to the N.W., rather than endanger the safety of the drays by +entering the mountain passes to the westward. Mr. O'Brien, however, +would not permit us to depart from his dwelling without taking away +with us some further proofs of his hospitality. The party had pushed +forward before I, or Mr. M'Leay, had mounted our horses; but on +overtaking it, we found that eight fine wethers had been added to our +stock of animals. + +HILL OF POUNI; ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. + +To the W.N.W. of Yass Plains there is a remarkable hill, called Pouni, +remarkable not so much on account of its height, as of its commanding +position. It had, I believe, already been ascended by one of the +Surveyor-general's assistants. The impracticability of the country to +the south of it, obliged us to pass under its opposite base, from which +an open forest country extended to the northward. We had already +recrossed the Yass River, and passed Mr. Barber's station, to that of +Mr. Hume's father, at which we stopped for a short time. Both farms are +well situated, the latter I should say, romantically so, it being +immediately under Pouni, the hill we have noticed. The country around +both was open, and both pasture and water were abundant. + +Mr. O'Brien had been kind enough to send one of the natives who +frequented his station to escort us to his more advanced station upon +the Morumbidgee. Had it not been for the assistance we received from +this man, I should have had but little leisure for other duties: as it +was however, there was no fear of the party going astray. This gave +M'Leay and myself an opportunity of ascending Pouni, for the purpose of +taking bearings; and how ever warm the exertion of the ascent made us, +the view from the summit of the hill sufficiently repaid us, and the +cool breeze that struck it, although imperceptible in the forest below, +soon dried the perspiration from our brows. The scenery around us was +certainly varied, yet many parts of it put me forcibly in mind of the +dark and gloomy tracks over which my eye had wandered from similar +elevations on the former journey. This was especially the case in +looking to the north, towards which point the hills forming the right +of the valley by which we had entered the plains, decreased so rapidly +in height that they were lost in the general equality of the more +remote country, almost ere they had reached abreast of my position. +From E.S.E. to W.S.W. the face of the country was hilly, broken and +irregular; forming deep ravines and precipitous glens, amid which I was +well aware the Morumbidgee was still struggling for freedom; while +mountains succeeded mountains in the back-ground, and were themselves +overtopped by lofty and very distant peaks. To the eastward, however, +the hills wore a more regular form, and were lightly covered with wood. +The plains occupied the space between them and Pouni; and a smaller +plain bore N.N.E. which, being embosomed in the forest, had hitherto +escaped our notice. + +We overtook the party just as it cleared the open ground through which +it had previously been moving. A barren scrub succeeded it for about +eight miles. The soil in this scrub was light and sandy. + +We stopped for the night at the head of a valley that seemed to have +been well trodden by cattle. The feed, therefore, was not abundant, nor +was the water good. We had, however, made a very fair journey, and I +was unwilling to press the animals. But in consequence, I fancy, of the +scarcity of food, they managed to creep away during the night, with the +exception of three or four of the bullocks, nor should we have +collected them again so soon as we did, or without infinite trouble, +had it not been for our guide and my black boy. We unavoidably lost a +day, but left our position on the 23rd, for Underaliga, a station +occupied by Doctor Harris, the gentleman I have already had occasion to +mention. We reached the banks of the creek near the stock hut, about 4 +p.m., having journeyed during the greater part of the day through a +poor country, partly of scrub and partly of open forest-land, in +neither of which was the soil or vegetation fresh or abundant. At about +three miles from Underaliga, the country entirely changed its +character, and its flatness was succeeded by a broken and undulating +surface. The soil upon the hills was coarse and sandy, from the +decomposition of the granite rock that constituted their base. +Nevertheless, the grass was abundant on the hills, though the roots or +tufts were far apart; and the hills were lightly studded with trees. + +COURSE OF A HURRICANE. + +In the course of the day we crossed the line of a hurricane that had +just swept with resistless force over the country, preserving a due +north course, and which we had heard from a distance, fortunately too +great to admit of its injuring us. It had opened a fearful gap in the +forest through which it had passed, of about a quarter of a mile in +breadth. Within that space, no tree had been able to withstand its +fury, for it had wrenched every bough from such as it had failed to +prostrate, and they stood naked in the midst of the surrounding wreck. +I am inclined to think that the rudeness of nature itself in these wild +and uninhabited regions, gives birth to these terrific phenomena. They +have never occurred, so far as I know, in the located districts. Our +guide deserted us in the early part of the day without assigning any +reason for doing so. He went off without being noticed, and thus lost +the reward that would have been bestowed on him had he mentioned his +wish to return to Yass. I the more regretted his having sneaked off, +because he had had the kindness to put us on a track we could not well +lose. + +COUNTRY FROM UNDERALIGA TO MORUMBIDGEE. + +Underaliga, is said to be thirty miles from the Morumbidgee. The +country between the two has a sameness of character throughout. It is +broken and irregular, yet no one hill rises conspicuously over the +rest. We found ourselves at one time on their summits beside huge +masses of granite, at others crossing valleys of rich soil and green +appearance. A country under cultivation is so widely different from one +the sod of which has never been broken by the plough, that it is +difficult and hazardous to form a decided opinion on the latter. If you +ask a stockman what kind of a country lies, either to his right, or to +his left, he is sure to condemn it, unless it will afford the most +abundant pasture. Accustomed to roam about from one place to another, +these men despise any but the richest tracts, and include the rest of +the neighbourhood in one sweeping clause of condemnation. Thus I was +led to expect, that we should pass over a country of the very worst +description, between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee. Had it been +similar to that midway between Yass and Underaliga, we should, in +truth, have found it so; but it struck me, that there were many rich +tracts of ground among the valleys of the former, and that the very +hills had a fair covering of grass upon them. What though the soil was +coarse, if the vegetation was good and sufficient? Perhaps the greatest +drawback to this part of the interior is the want of water; yet we +crossed several creeks, and remarked some deep water holes, that can +never be exhausted, even in the driest season. Wherever the situation +favoured our obtaining a view of the country on either side of us, +while among these hills, we found that to the eastward lofty and +mountainous; whilst that to the westward, had the appearance of fast +sinking into a level. + +JUGGIONG. + +A short time before we reached the Morumbidgee, we forded a creek, +which we crossed a second time where it falls into the river. After +crossing it the first time we opened a flat, on which the marks of +sheep were abundant. In the distance there was a small hill, and on its +top a bark hut. We were not until then aware of our being so near the +river, but as Mr. O'Brien had informed me that he had a station for +sheep, at a place called Juggiong, by the natives, on the immediate +banks of the river, I did not doubt that we had, at length, arrived at +it. And so it proved. I went to the hut, to ascertain where I could +conveniently stop for the night, but the residents were absent. I could +not but admire the position they had taken up. The hill upon which +their hut was erected was not more than fifty feet high, but it +immediately overlooked the river, and commanded not only the flat we +had traversed in approaching it, but also a second flat on the opposite +side. The Morumbidgee came down to the foot of this little hill from +the south, and, of course, running to the north, which latter direction +it suddenly takes up from a previous S.W. one, on meeting some hills +that check its direct course. From the hill on which the hut stands, it +runs away westward, almost in a direct line, for three miles, so that +the position commands a view of both the reaches, which are overhung by +the casuarina and flooded-gum. Rich alluvial flats lie to the right of +the stream, backed by moderate hills, that were lightly studded with +trees, and clothed with verdure to their summits. Some moderate +elevations also backed a flat, on the left bank of the river, but the +colour of the soil upon the latter, as well as its depressed situation, +showed clearly that it was subject to flood, and had received the worst +of the depositions from the mountains. The hills behind it were also +bare, and of a light red colour, betraying, as I imagined, a distinct +formation from, and poorer character than, the hills behind us. At +about three miles the river again suddenly changes its direction from +west to south, for about a mile, when it inclines to the S.E. until it +nearly encircles the opposite hills, when it assumes its proper +direction, and flows away to the S.W. + +CROSS THE UNDERALIGA; REACH THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +We crossed the Underaliga creek a little below the stock hut, and +encamped about a mile beyond it, in the centre of a long plain. We were +surrounded on every side by hills, from which there was no visible +outlet, as they appeared to follow the bend of the river, with an even +and unbroken outline. The scenery around us was wild, romantic, and +beautiful; as beautiful as a rich and glowing sunset in the most +delightful climate under the heavens could make it. I had been more +anxious to gain the banks of the Morumbidgee on this occasion, than I +had been on a former one to gain those of the Macquarie, for although I +could not hope to see the Morumbidgee all that it had been described to +me, yet I felt that on its first appearance I should in some measure +ground my anticipations of ultimate success. When I arrived on the +banks of the Macquarie, it had almost ceased to flow, and its current +was so gentle as to be scarcely perceptible. Instead, however, of a +river in such a state of exhaustion, I now looked down upon a stream, +whose current it would have been difficult to breast, and whose waters, +foaming among rocks, or circling in eddies, gave early promise of a +reckless course. It must have been somewhat below its ordinary level, +and averaged a breadth of about 80 feet. Its waters were hard and +transparent, and its bed was composed of mountain debris, and large +fragments of rock. As soon as the morning dawned, the tents were struck +and we pursued our journey. We followed the line of the river, until we +found ourselves in a deep bight to the S.E. The hills that had been +gradually closing in upon the river, now approached it so nearly, that +there was no room for the passage of the drays. We were consequently +obliged to turn back, and, moving along the base of the ranges, by +which we were thus apparently enclosed, we at length found a steep +pass, the extreme narrowness of which had hidden it from our +observation. By this pass we were now enabled to effect our escape. On +gaining the summit of the hills, we travelled south for three or four +miles, through open forests, and on level ground. But we ultimately +descended into a valley in which we halted for the night. On a closer +examination of the neighbourhood, it appeared that our position was at +the immediate junction of two valleys, where, uniting the waters of +their respective creeks, the main branch declines rapidly towards the +river. One of these valleys extended to to the S.W., the other to the +W.N.W. It was evident to us that our route lay up the former; and I +made no doubt we should easily reach Whaby's station on the morrow. + +ADJACENT COUNTRY. + +We were now far beyond the acknowledged limits of the located parts of +the colony, and Mr. Whaby's station was the last at which we could +expect even the casual supply of milk or other trifling relief. Yet, +although the prospect of so soon leaving even the outskirts of +civilization, and being wholly thrown on our own resources, was so +near, it never for a moment weighed upon the minds of the men. The +novelty of the scenery, and the beauty of the river on which they were +journeying, excited in them the liveliest anticipations of success. The +facility with which we had hitherto pushed forward blinded them to +future difficulties, nor could there be a more cheerful spectacle than +that which the camp daily afforded. The animals browzing in the +distance, and the men talking over their pipes of the probable +adventures they might encounter. The loads had by this time settled +properly, and our provisions proved of the very best quality, so that +no possible improvement could have been made for the better. + +WHABY'S STATION. + +On the morrow we pushed up the southernmost of the valleys, at the +junction of which we had encamped, having moderate hills on either side +of us. At the head of the valley we crossed a small dividing range into +another valley, and halted for the night, on the banks of a creek from +the westward, as we found it impossible to reach Whaby's station, as we +had intended, before sunset. Nothing could exceed the luxuriance of the +vegetation in this valley, but the water of the creek was so +impregnated with iron, as to be almost useless. Being anxious to obtain +a view of the surrounding country, I ascended a hill behind the camp, +just as the sun was sinking, a time the most favourable for the object +I had in view. The country, broken into hill and dale, seemed richer +than any tract I had as yet surveyed; and the beauty of the near +landscape was greatly heightened by the mountainous scenery to the S. +and S.E. Both the laxmania, and zanthorea were growing around me; but +neither appeared to be in congenial soil. The face of the hill was very +stony, and I found, on examination, that a great change had taken place +in the rock-formation, the granite ranges having given place to +chlorite schist. + +We reached Whaby's about 9 a.m. of the morning of the 27th, and +received every attention and civility from him. The valley in which we +had slept opened upon an extensive plain, to the eastward of which the +Morumbidgee formed the extreme boundary; and it was in a bight, and on +ground rather elevated above the plain, that he had fixed his +residence. He informed me that we should have to cross the river, as +its banks were too precipitous, and the ranges too abrupt, to admit of +our keeping the right side; and recommended me to examine and fix upon +a spot at which to cross, before I again moved forward, expressing his +readiness to accompany me as a guide. We accordingly rode down the +river, to a place at which some stockman had effected a passage,--after +a week's labour in hewing out a canoe. I by no means intended that a +similar delay should occur in our case, but I saw no objection to our +crossing at the same place; since its depth, and consequent +tranquillity, rendered it eligible enough for that purpose. + +THE RIVER DUMOT. + +The Dumot river, another mountain stream, joins the Morumbidgee +opposite to Mr. Whaby's residence. It is little inferior to the latter +either in size or in the rapidity of its current, and, if I may rely on +the information I received, waters a finer country, the principal +rock-formation upon it being of limestone and whinstone. It rises +amidst the snowy ranges to the S.E., and its banks are better peopled +than those of the stream into which it discharges itself. Of course, +such a tributary enlarges the Morumbidgee considerably: indeed, the +fact is sufficiently evident from the appearance of the latter below +the junction. + +During our ride with Whaby down its banks, we saw nothing but the +richest flats, almost entirely clear of timber and containing from 400 +to 700 acres, backed by ranges that were but partially wooded, and were +clothed with verdure to their very summits. The herds that were +scattered over the first were almost lost in the height of the +vegetation, and the ranges served as natural barriers to prevent them +from straying away. + +CROSS AND RE-CROSS THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +On the following morning, we started for the place at which it had been +arranged that we should cross the Morumbidgee, but, though no more than +five miles in a direct line from Whaby's house, in consequence of the +irregularity of the ground, the drays did not reach it before noon. The +weight and quantity of our stores being taken into consideration, the +task we had before us was not a light one. Such, however, was the +industry of the men, that before it became dark the whole of them, +including the drays and sheep, were safely deposited on the opposite +bank. We were enabled to be thus expeditious, by means of a punt that +we made with the tarpaulins on an oblong frame. As soon as it was +finished, a rope was conveyed across the river, and secured to a tree, +and a running cord being then fastened to the punt, a temporary ferry +was established, and the removal of our stores rendered comparatively +easy. M'Leay undertook to drive the horses and cattle over a ford below +us, but he did not calculate on the stubborn disposition of the latter, +and, consequently, experienced some difficulty, and was well nigh swept +away by the current. So great was his difficulty, that he was obliged +to land, to his great discomfiture, amidst a grove of lofty nettles. +Mulholland, who accompanied him, and who happened to be naked, was +severly stung by them. The labour of the day was, however, +satisfactorily concluded, and we lay down to rest with feelings of +entire satisfaction. + +A great part of the following day was consumed in reloading, nor did we +pursue our journey until after two o'clock. We then passed over tracks +on the left of the river of the same rich description that existed on +its right; they were much intersected by creeks, but were clear of +timber, and entirely out of the reach of floods. At about seven miles +from where we started, we found ourselves checked by precipitous rocks +jutting into the stream, and were obliged once more to make +preparations for crossing it. Instead of a deep and quiet reach, +however, the Morumbidgee here expanded into a fretful rapid; but it was +sufficiently shallow to admit of our taking the drays over, without the +trouble of unloading them. There was still, however, some labour +required in cutting down the banks, and the men were fully occupied +until after sunset; and so well did they work, that an hour's exertion +in the morning enabled us to make the passage with safety. On ascending +the right bank, we found that we had to force through a dense body of +reeds, covering some flooded land, at the base of a range terminating +upon the river; and we were obliged, in order to extricate ourselves +from our embarrassments, to pass to the N.W. of the point, and to cross +a low part of the range. This done, we met with no further +interruptions during the day, but travelled along rich and clear flats +to a deep bight below an angle of the river called Nangaar by the +natives; where we pitched our camp, and our animals revelled amid the +most luxuriant pasture. Only in one place did the sandy superficies +upon the plain indicate that it was there subject to flood. + +The Morumbidgee from Juggiong to our present encampment had held a +general S.S.W. course, but from the summit of a hill behind the tents +it now appeared to be gradually sweeping round to the westward; and I +could trace the line of trees upon its banks, through a rich and +extensive valley in that direction, as far as my sight could reach. The +country to the S.E. maintained its lofty character, but to the westward +the hills and ranges were evidently decreasing in height, and the +distant interior seemed fast sinking to a level. The general direction +of the ranges had been from N. to S., and as we had been travelling +parallel to them, their valleys were shut from our view. Now, however, +several rich and extensive ones became visible, opening from the +southward into the valley of the Morumbidgee, and, as a further +evidence of a change of country from a confused to a more open one, a +plain of considerable size stretched from immediately beneath the hill +on which I was to the N.W. + +GEOLOGY OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. + +The Morumbidgee itself, from the length and regularity of its reaches, +as well as from its increased size, seemed to intimate that it had +successfully struggled through the broken country in which it rises, +and that it would henceforward meet with fewer interruptions to its +course. It still, however, preserved all the characters of a mountain +stream; having alternate rapids and deep pools, being in many places +encumbered with fallen timber, and generally running over a shingly +bed, composed of rounded fragments of every rock of which the +neighbouring ranges were formed, and many others that had been swept by +the torrents down it. The rock formation of the hills upon its right +continued of that chlorite schist which prevailed near Mr. Whaby's, +which I have already noticed, and quartz still appeared in large +masses, on the loftier ranges opposite, so that the geology of the +neighbourhood could not be said to have undergone any material change. +It might, however, be considered an extraordinary feature in it, that a +small hill of blue limestone existed upon the left bank of the river. +The last place at which we had seen limestone was at Yass, but I had +learned from Mr. Whaby, that, together with whinstone, it was abundant +near a Mr. Rose's station on the Dumot, that was not at any great +distance. The irregularity, however, of the intervening country, made +the appearance of this solitary rock more singular. + +Although the fires of the natives had been frequent upon the river, +none had, as yet, ventured to approach us, in consequence of some +misunderstanding that had taken place between them and Mr. Stuckey's +stockmen. Mr. Roberts' stockmen [these men had lately fixed themselves +on the river a little below Mr. Whaby's], however, brought a man and a +boy to us at this place in the afternoon, but I could not persuade them +to accompany us on our journey--neither could I, although my native boy +understood them perfectly, gain any particular information from them. + +In consequence of rain, we did not strike the tents so early as usual. +At 7 a.m. a heavy thunder storm occurred from the N.W. after which the +sky cleared, and we were enabled to push forward at 11 a.m., moving on +a general W.N.W, course, over rich flats, which, having been moistened +by the morning's showers, showed the dark colour of the rich earth of +which they were composed. Some sand-hills were, however, observed near +the river, of about fifteen feet in elevation, crowned by banksias; and +the soil of the flats had a very partial mixture of sand in it. How +these sand-hills could have been formed it is difficult to say; but +they produced little minor vegetation, and were as pure as the sand of +the sea-shore. Some considerable plains were noticed to our right, in +appearance not inferior to the ground on which we were journeying. At +noon we rose gradually from the level of these plains, and travelled +along the side of a hill, until we got to a small creek, at which we +stopped, though more than a mile and a half from the river. The clouds +had been gathering again in the N.W. quarter, and we had scarcely time +to secure our flour, when a second storm burst upon us, and it +continued to rain violently for the remainder of the day. + +BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT. + +From a small hill that lay to our left Mr. M'Leay and I enjoyed a most +beautiful view. Beneath us to the S. E. the rich and lightly timbered +valley through which the Morumbidgee flows, extended, and parts of the +river were visible through the dark masses of swamp-oak by which it was +lined, or glittering among the flooded-gum trees, that grew in its +vicinity. In the distance was an extensive valley that wound between +successive mountain ranges. More to the eastward, both mountain and +woodland bore a dark and gloomy shade, probably in consequence of the +light upon them at the time. Those lofty peaks that had borne nearly +south of us from Pouni, near Yass, now rose over the last-mentioned +ranges, and by their appearance seemed evidently to belong to a high +and rugged chain. To the westward, the decline of country was more +observable than ever; and the hills on both sides of the river, were +lower and more distant from it. Those upon which we found ourselves +were composed of iron-stone, were precipitous towards the river in many +places, of sandy soil, and were crowned with beef-wood as well as box. +The change in the rock-formation and in the soil, produced a +corresponding change in the vegetation. The timber was not so large as +it had been, neither did the hills any longer bear the green appearance +which had distinguished those we had passed to their very summits. The +grass here grew in tufts amidst the sand, and was of a burnt appearance +as if it had suffered from drought. + +NATIVES--THEIR SUFFERING FROM COLD. + +Some natives had joined us in the morning, and acted as our guides; or +it is more than probable that we should have continued our course along +the river, and got enbarrassed among impediments that were visible from +our elevated position; for it was evident that the range we had +ascended terminated in an abrupt precipice on the river, that we could +not have passed. The blacks suffered beyond what I could have imagined, +from cold, and seemed as incapable of enduring it as if they had +experienced the rigour of a northern snow storm. + +The morning of the 2nd December was cloudy and lowering, and the wind +still hung in the N.W. There was truly every appearance of bad weather, +but our anxiety to proceed on our journey overcame our apprehensions, +and the animals were loaded and moved off at 7 a.m. The rain which had +fallen the evening previous, rendered travelling heavy; so that we got +on but slowly. At 11, the clouds burst, and continued to pour down for +the rest of the day. On leaving the creek we crossed the spine of the +range, and descending from it into a valley, that continued to the +river on the one hand, and stretched away to the N.W. on the other, we +ascended some hills opposite to us, and moved generally through open, +undulating forest ground, affording good pasturage. + +SMOKING AN OPOSSUM. + +One of the blacks being anxious to get an opossum out of a dead tree, +every branch of which was hollow, asked for a tomahawk, with which he +cut a hole in the trunk above where he thought the animal lay +concealed. He found however, that he had cut too low, and that it had +run higher up. This made it necessary to smoke it out; he accordingly +got some dry grass, and having kindled a fire, stuffed it into the hole +he had cut. A raging fire soon kindled in the tree, where the draft was +great, and dense columns of smoke issued from the end of each branch as +thick as that from the chimney of a steam engine. The shell of the tree +was so thin that I thought it would soon be burnt through, and that the +tree would fall; but the black had no such fears, and, ascending to the +highest branch, he watched anxiously for the poor little wretch he had +thus surrounded with dangers and devoted to destruction; and no sooner +did it appear, half singed and half roasted, than he seized upon it and +threw it down to us with an air of triumph. The effect of the scene in +so lonely a forest, was very fine. The roaring of the fire in the tree, +the fearless attitude of the savage, and the associations which his +colour and appearance, enveloped as he was in smoke, called up, were +singular, and still dwell on my recollection. We had not long left the +tree, when it fell with a tremendous crash, and was, when we next +passed that way, a mere heap of ashes. + +ACCIDENTS. + +Shortly before it commenced raining, the dogs started an emu, and took +after it, followed by M'Leay and myself. We failed in killing it, and I +was unfortunate enough to lose a most excellent watch upon the +occasion, which in regularity was superior to the chronometer I had +with me. + +As there was no hope of the weather clearing up, I sent M'Leay and one +of the blacks with the flour to the river, with directions to pile it +up and cover it with tarpaulins, as soon as possible, remaining myself +to bring up the drays. It was not, however, until after 4 p.m. that we +gained the river-side, or that we were enabled to get into shelter. +Fraser met with a sad accident while assisting the driver of the teams, +who, accidentally, struck him with the end of the lash of his whip in +the eye, and cut the lower lid in two. The poor fellow fell to the +ground as if he had been shot, and really, from the report of the whip, +I was at first uncertain of the nature of the accident. + +PONDEBADGERY. + +We had gradually ascended some hills; and as the sweep of the valley +led southerly, we continued along it until we got to its very head; +then, crossing the ridge we descended the opposite side, towards a +beautiful plain, on the further extremity of which the river line was +marked by the dark-leafed casuarina. In spite of the badness of the +weather and the misfortunes of the day, I could not but admire the +beauty of the scene. We were obliged to remain stationary the following +day, in consequence of one of the drays being out of repair, and +requiring a new axle-tree. I could hardly regret the necessity that +kept us in so delightful a spot. This plain, which the natives called +Pondebadgery, and in which a station has since been formed, is about +two miles in breadth, by about three and a-half in length. It is +surrounded apparently on every side by hills. The river running E. and +W. forms its southern boundary. The hills by which we had entered it, +terminating abruptly on the river to the north-east, form a semi-circle +round it to the N.N.W. where a valley, the end of which cannot be seen, +runs to the north-west, of about half a mile in breadth. On the +opposite side of the river moderate hills rise over each other, and +leave little space between them and its banks. The Morumbidgee itself, +with an increased breadth, averaging from seventy to eighty yards, +presents a still, deep sheet of water to the view, over which the +casuarina bends with all the grace of the willow, or the birch, but +with more sombre foliage. To the west, a high line of flooded-gum trees +extending from the river to the base of the hills which form the west +side of the valley before noticed, hides the near elevations, and thus +shuts in the whole space. The soil of the plain is of the richest +description, and the hills backing it, together with the valley, are +capable of depasturing the most extensive flocks. + +Such is the general landscape from the centre of Pondebadgery Plain. +Behind the line of gum-trees, the river suddenly sweeps away to the +south, and forms a deep bight of seven miles, when, bearing up again to +the N.W. it meets some hills about 10 miles to the W.N.W. of the plain, +thus encircling a still more extensive space, that for richness of +soil, and for abundance of pasture, can nowhere be excelled; such, +though on a smaller scale, are all the flats that adorn the banks of +the Morumbidgee, first on one side and then on the other, as the hills +close in upon them, from Juggiong to Pondebadgery. + +TRAVELLING DOWN THE RIVER. + +It is deeply to be regretted that this noble river should exist at such +a distance from the capital as to be unavailable. During our stay on +the Pondebadgery Plain, the men caught a number of codfish, as they are +generally termed, but which are, in reality, a species of perch. The +largest weighed 40lb. but the majority of the others were small, not +exceeding from six to eight. M'Leay and I walked to the N.W. extremity +of the plain, in order to ascertain how we should debouche from it, and +to get, if possible, a view of the western interior. We took with us +two blacks who had attached themselves to the party, and had made +themselves generally useful. On ascending the most westerly of the +hills, we found it composed of micaceous schist, the upper coat of +which was extremely soft, and broke with a slaty fracture, or crumbled +into a sparkling dust beneath our feet. The summit of the hill was +barren, and beef-wood alone grew on it. The valley, of which it was the +western boundary, ran up northerly for two or three miles, with all the +appearance of richness and verdure. To the south extended the flat I +have noticed, more heavily timbered than we had usually found them, +bounded, or backed rather, by a hilly country, although one fast losing +in its general height. To the W.N.W. there was a moderate range of +hills on the opposite side of an extensive valley, running up +northerly, from which a lateral branch swept round to the W.N.W. with a +gradual ascent into the hills, which bore the same appearance of open +forest, grazing land, as prevailed in similar tracts to the eastward. +The blacks pointed out to us our route up the valley, and stated that +we should get on the banks of the river again in a direction W. by N. +from the place on which we stood. We accordingly crossed the principal +valley on the following morning, and gradually ascended the opposite +line of hills. They terminate to the S.E. in lofty precipices, +overlooking the river flats, and having a deep chain of ponds under +them. The descent towards the river was abrupt, and we encamped upon +its banks, with a more confined view than any we had ever had before. +There was an evident change in the river; the banks were reedy, the +channel deep and muddy, and the neighbourhood bore more the appearance +of being subject to overflow than it had done in any one place we had +passed over. The hills were much lower, and as we gained the southern +brow of that under which we encamped, we could see a level and wooded +country to the westward. The line of the horizon was unbroken by any +hills in the distance, and the nearer ones seemed gradually to lose +themselves in the darkness of the landscape. + +The two natives, whom the stockmen had named Peter and Jemmie, were of +infinite service to us, from their knowledge of all the passes, and the +general features of the country. Having, however, seen us thus far on +the journey from their usual haunts, they became anxious to return, and +it was with some difficulty we persuaded them to accompany us for a few +days longer, in hopes of reward. The weather had been cool and +pleasant; the thermometer averaging 78 of Fahrenheit at noon, in +consequences of which the animals kept in good condition, the men +healthy and zealous. The sheep Mr. O'Brien had presented to us, gave no +additional trouble; they followed in the rear of the party without +attempting to wander, and were secured at night in a small pen or fold. +No waste attended their slaughter, nor did they lose in condition, from +being driven from ten to fifteen miles daily, so much as I had been led +to suppose they would have done. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Character of the Morumbidgee where it issues from the hilly +country--Appearance of approach to swamps--Hamilton Plains--Intercourse +with the natives--Their appearance, customs, &c.--Change in the +character of the river--Mirage--Dreariness of the country--Ride towards +the Lachlan river--Two boats built and launched on the Morumbidgee; and +the drays, with part of the men sent back to Goulburn Plains. + + +NATIVES--WILD GAME,&c.; CHARACTER OF THE RIVER AND THE ADJOINING +COUNTRY. + +From our camp, the Morumbidgee held a direct westerly course for about +three miles. The hills under which we had encamped, rose so close upon +our right as to leave little space between them and the river. At the +distance of three miles, however, they suddenly terminated, and the +river changed its direction to the S.W., while a chain of ponds +extended to the westward, and separated the alluvial flats from a +somewhat more elevated plain before us. We kept these ponds upon our +left for some time, but, as they ultimately followed the bend of the +river, we left them. The blacks led us on a W. by S. course to the base +of a small range two or three miles distant, near which there was a +deep lagoon. It was evident they here expected to have found some other +natives. Being disappointed, however, they turned in towards the river +again, but we stopped short of it on the side of a serpentine sheet of +water, an apparent continuation of the chain of ponds we had left +behind us, forming a kind of ditch round the S.W. extremity of the +range, parallel to which we had continued to travel. This range, which +had been gradually decreasing in height from the lagoon, above which it +rose perpendicularly, might almost be said to terminate here. We fell +in with two or three natives before we halted, but the evident want of +population in so fine a country, and on so noble a river, surprised me +extremely. We saw several red kangaroos in the course of the day, and +succeeded in killing one. It certainly is a beautiful animal, ranging +the wilds in native freedom. The female and the kid are of a light +mouse-colour. Wild turkeys abound on this part of the Morumbidgee, but +with the exception of a few terns, which are found hovering over the +lagoons, no new birds had as yet been procured; and the only plant that +enriched our collection, was an unknown metrosideros. In crossing the +extremity of the range, the wheels of the dray sunk deep into a +yielding and coarse sandy soil, of decomposed granite, on which +forest-grass prevailed in tufts, which, being far apart, made the +ground uneven, and caused the animals to trip. We rose at one time +sufficiently high to obtain an extensive view, and had our opinions +confirmed as to the level nature of the country we were so rapidly +approaching. From the N. to the W.S.W. the eye wandered over a wooded +and unbroken interior, if I except a solitary double hill that rose in +the midst of it, bearing S. 82 degrees W. distant 12 miles, and another +singular elevation that bore S. 32 degrees W. called by the natives, +Kengal. The appearance to the E.S.E. was still that of a mountainous +country, while from the N.E., the hills gradually decrease in height, +until lost in the darkness of surrounding objects to the northward. We +did not travel this day more than 13 miles on a W. by N. course. The +Morumbidgee, where we struck it, by its increased size, kept alive our +anticipations of its ultimately leading us to some important point. The +partial rains that had fallen while we were on its upper branch, had +swollen it considerably, and it now rolled along a vast body of water +at the rate of three miles an hour, preserving a medium width of 150 +feet; its banks retaining a height far above the usual level of the +stream. A traveller who had never before descended into the interior of +New Holland, would have spurned the idea of such a river terminating in +marshes; but with the experience of the former journey, strong as hope +was within my breast, I still feared it might lose itself in the vast +flat upon which we could scarcely be said to have yet entered. The +country was indeed taking up more and more every day the features of +the N.W. interior. Cypresses were observed upon the minor ridges, and +the soil near the river, although still rich, and certainly more +extensive than above, was occasionally mixed with sand, and scattered +over with the claws of crayfish and shells, indicating its greater +liability to be flooded; nor indeed could I entertain a doubt that the +river had laid a great part of the levels around us under water long +after it found that channel in which nature intended ultimately to +confine it. We killed another fine red kangaroo in the early part of +the day, in galloping after which I got a heavy fall. + +The two blacks who had been with us so long, and who had not only +exerted themselves to assist us, but had contributed in no small degree +to our amusement, though they had from M'Leay's liberality, tasted all +the dainties with which we had provided ourselves, from sugar to +concentrated cayenne, intimated that they could no longer accompany the +party. They had probably got to the extremity of their beat, and dared +not venture any further. They left us with evident regret, receiving, +on their departure, several valuable presents, in the shape of +tomahawks &c. The last thing they did was to point out the way to us, +and to promise to join us on our return, although they evidently little +anticipated ever seeing us again. + +In pursuing our journey, we entered a forest, consisting of box-trees, +casuarinae, and cypresses, on a light sandy soil, in which both horses +and bullocks sunk so deep that their labour was greatly increased, more +especially as the weather had become much warmer. At noon I altered my +course from N.W. by W. to W.N.W., and reached the Morumbidgee at 3 in +the afternoon. The flats bordering it were extensive and rich, and, +being partially mixed with sand, were more fitted for agricultural +purposes than the stiffer and purer soil amidst the mountains; but the +interior beyond them was far from being of corresponding quality. We +crossed several plains on which vegetation was scanty, probably owing +to the hardness of the soil, which was a stiff loamy clay, and which +must check the growth of plants, by preventing the roots from striking +freely into it. The river where we stopped for the night appeared to +have risen considerably, and the fish were rolling about on the surface +of the water with a noise like porpoises. No elevations were visible, +so that I had not an opportunity of continuing the chain of survey with +the points I had previously taken. + +TRAVELLING DOWN THE RIVER. + +As we proceeded down the river on the 8th, the flats became still more +extensive than they had ever been, and might almost be denominated +plains. Vegetation was scanty upon them, although the soil was of the +first quality. About nine miles from our camp, we struck on a small +isolated hill, that could scarcely have been of 200 feet elevation; +yet, depressed as it was, the view from its summit was very extensive, +and I was surprised to find that we were still in some measure +surrounded by high lands, of which I took the following bearings, +connected with the present ones. + + A High Peak.....N. 66 E. distance 40 miles. + Kengal ........ N. 110 E. distant. + Double Hill ... S. 10 W. distant. + +To the north, there were several fires burning, which appeared rather +the fires of natives, than conflagrations, and as the river had made a +bend to the N.N.W., I doubted not that they were upon its banks. From +this hill, which was of compact granite, we struck away to the W.N.W., +and shortly afterwards crossed some remarkable sand-hills. Figuratively +speaking, they appeared like islands amidst the alluvial deposits, and +were as pure in their composition as the sand on the sea-shore. They +were generally covered with forest grass, in tufts, and a coarse kind +of rushes, under banksias and cypresses. We found a small fire on the +banks of the river, and close to it the couch and hut of a solitary +native, who had probably seen us approach, and had fled. There cannot +be many inhabitants hereabouts, since there are no paths to indicate +that they frequent this part of the Morumbidgee more at one season than +another. + +On the 9th, the river fell off again to the westward, and we lost a +good deal of the northing we had made the day before. We journeyed +pretty nearly equidistant from the stream, and kept altogether on the +alluvial flats. As we were wandering along the banks of the river, a +black started up before us, and swam across to the opposite side, where +he immediately hid himself. We could by no means induce him to show +himself; he was probably the lonely being whom we had scared away from +the fire the day before. In the afternoon, however we surprised a +family of six natives, and persuaded them to follow us to our halting +place. My boy understood them well; but the young savage had the +cunning to hide the information they gave him, or, for aught I know, to +ask questions that best suited his own purposes, and therefore we +gained little intelligence from them. + +Every day now produced some change in the face of the country, by which +it became more and more assimilated to that I had traversed during the +first expedition. Acacia pendula now made its appearance on several +plains beyond the river deposits, as well as that salsolaceous class of +plants, among which the schlerolina and rhagodia are so remarkable. The +natives left us at sunset, but returned early in the morning with an +extremely facetious and good-humoured old man, who volunteered to act +as our guide without the least hesitation. There was a cheerfulness in +his manner, that gained our confidence at once, and rendered him a +general favourite. He went in front with the dogs, and led us a little +away from the river to kill kangaroos, as he said. At about two miles +we struck on an inconsiderable elevation, which the party crossed at +the S.W. extremity. I ascended it at the opposite end, but although the +view was extensive, I could not make out the little hill of granite +from which I had taken my former bearings, and the only elevation I +could recognise as connected with them, was one about ten miles +distant, bearing S. 168 W. I could observe very distant ranges to the +E.N.E. and immediately below me in that direction, there was a large +clear plain, skirted by acacia pendula, stretching from S.S.E. to +N.N.W. The crown and ridges of the hill on which I stood, were barren, +stony, and covered with beef-wood, the rock-formation being a coarse +granite. The drays had got so far ahead of me that I did not overtake +them before they had halted on the river at a distance of ten miles. + +INFORMATION FROM A NATIVE. + +The Morumbidgee appeared, on examination, to have increased in breadth, +and continued to rise gradually. It is certainly a noble stream, very +different from those I had already traced to their termination. The old +black informed me that there was another large river flowing to the +southward of west, to which the Morumbidgee was as a creek, and that we +could gain it in four days. He stated that its waters were good, but +that its banks were not peopled. That such a feature existed where he +laid it down, I thought extremely probable, because it was only natural +to expect that other streams descended from the mountains in the S.E. +of the island, as well as that on which we were travelling. The +question was, whether either of them held on an uninterrupted course to +some reservoir, or whether they fell short of the coast and exhausted +themselves in marshes. Considering the concave direction of the +mountains to the S.E., I even at this time hoped that the rivers +falling into the interior would unite sooner or later, and contribute +to the formation of an important and navigable stream. Of the fate of +the Morumbidgee, the old black could give no account. It seemed +probable, therefore, that we were far from its termination. + +I had hitherto been rather severe upon the animals, for although our +journey had not exceeded from twelve to fifteen miles a day, it had +been without intermission. I determined, therefore, to give both men +and animals a day of rest, as soon as I should find a convenient place. +We started on the 11th with this intention, but we managed to creep +over eight or ten miles of ground before we halted. The country was +slightly undulated, and much intersected by creeks, few of which had +water in them. The whole tract was, however, well adapted either for +agriculture, or for grazing, and, in spite of the drought that had +evidently long hung over it, was well covered with vegetation. We had +passed all high lands, and the interior to the westward presented an +unbroken level to the eye. The Morumbidgee appeared to hold a more +northerly course than I had anticipated. Still low ranges continued +upon our right, and the cypress ridges became more frequent and denser; +but the timber on the more open grounds generally consisted of box and +flooded-gum. Of minor trees, the acacia pendula was the most prevalent, +with a shrub bearing a round nut, enclosed in a scarlet capsule, and an +interesting species of stenochylus. I had observed as yet, few of the +plants of the more northern interior. + +NATIVES--THEIR UGLINESS. + +In this neighbourhood, the dogs killed an emu and a kangaroo, which +came in very conveniently for some natives whom we fell in with on one +of the river flats. They were, without exception, the worst featured of +any I had ever seen. It is scarcely possible to conceive that human +beings could be so hideous and loathsome. The old black, who was rather +good-looking, told me they were the last we should see for some time, +and I felt that if these were samples of the natives on the lowlands, I +cared very little how few of I them we should meet. + +EXTENSIVE PLAINS. + +The country on the opposite side of the river had all the features of +that to the north of it, but a plain of such extent suddenly opened +upon us to the southward, that I halted at once in order to examine it, +and by availing myself of a day of rest, to fix our position more truly +than we could otherwise have done. We accordingly pitched our tents +under some lofty gum-trees, opposite to the plain, and close upon the +edge of the sandy beach of the river. Before they were turned out, the +animals were carefully examined, and the pack-saddles overhauled, that +they might undergo any necessary repairs. The river fell considerably +during the night, but it poured along a vast body of water, possessing +a strong current. The only change I remarked in it was that it now had +a bed of sand, and was generally deeper on one side than on the other. +It kept a very uniform breadth of from 150 to 170 feet--and a depth of +from 4 to 20. Its channel, though occasionally much encumbered with +fallen timber, was large enough to contain twice the volume of water +then in it, but it had outer and more distant banks, the boundaries of +the alluvial flats, to confine it within certain limits, during the +most violent floods, and to prevent its inundating the country. + +HAMILTON'S PLAINS. + +With a view to examine the plain opposite to us, I directed our horses +to be taken across the river early in the morning, and after breakfast, +M'Leay and I swam across after them. We found the current strong, and +could not keep a direct line over the channel, but were carried below +the place at which we plunged in. We proceeded afterwards in a +direction W.S.W. across the plain for five or six miles, before we saw +trees on the opposite extremity, at a still greater distance. We thus +found ourselves in the centre of an area of from 26 to 30 miles. It +appeared to be perfectly level, though not really so. The soil upon it +was good, excepting in isolated spots, where it was sandy. Vegetation +was scanty upon it, but, on the whole, I should conclude that it was +fitter for agriculture than for grazing. For I think it very probable, +that those lands which lie hardening and bare in a state of nature, +would produce abundantly if broken up by the plough. I called this +Hamilton's plains, in remembrance of the surgeon of my regiment. The +Morumbidgee forms its N.E. boundary, and a creek rising on it, cuts off +a third part on the western side, and runs away from the river in a +southerly direction. This creek, even before it gets to the outskirts +of the plains, assumes a considerable size. Such a fact would argue +that heavy rains fall in this part of the interior, to cut out such a +watercourse, or that the soil is extremely loose; but I should think +the former the most probable, since the soil of this plain had a +substratum of clay. I place our encampment on the river in latitude 34 +degrees 41 minutes 45 seconds S., and in East longitude 146 degrees 50 +minutes, the variation of the compass being 6 degrees 10 minutes E. + +INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES; SCANTINESS OF THE POPULATION. + +On our return to the camp we found several natives with our people, and +among them one of the tallest I had ever seen. Their women were with +them, and they appeared to have lost all apprehension of any danger +occurring from us. The animals were benefited greatly by this day of +rest. We left the plain, therefore, on the 13th with renewed spirits, +and passed over a country very similar to that by which we had +approached it, one well adapted for grazing, but intersected by +numerous creeks, at two of which we found natives, some of whom joined +our party. Our old friend left us in quest of some blacks, who, as he +informed Hopkinson, had seen the tracks of our horses on the Darling. I +was truly puzzled at such a statement, which was, however, further +corroborated by the circumstance of one of the natives having a +tire-nail affixed to a spear, which he said was picked up, by the man +who gave it to him, on one of our encampments. I could not think it +likely that this story was true, and rather imagined they must have +picked up the nail near the located districts, and I was anxious to +have the point cleared up. When we halted we had a large assemblage of +natives with us, amounting in all to twenty-seven, but I awaited in +vain the return of the old man. The night passed away without our +seeing him, nor did he again join us. + +We started in the morning with our new acquaintances, and kept on a +south-westerly course during the day, over an excellent grazing, and, +in many places, an agricultural country, still intersected by creeks, +that were too deep for the water to have dried in them. The country +more remote from the river, however, began to assume more and more the +character and appearance of the northern interior. I rode into several +plains, the soil of which was either a red sandy loam, bare of +vegetation, or a rotten and blistered earth, producing nothing but +rhagodiae, salsolae, and misembrianthemum. + +We fell in with another tribe of blacks during the journey, to whom we +were literally consigned by those who had been previously with us, and +who now turned back, while our new friends took the lead of the drays. +They were two fine young men, but had very ugly wives, and were for a +long time extremely diffident. I found that I could obtain but little +information through my black boy,--whether from his not understanding +me, or because he was too cunning, is uncertain. One of these young +men, however, clearly stated that he had seen the tracks of bullocks +and horses, a long time ago, to the N.N.W. in the direction of some +detached hills, that were visible from 20 to 25 miles distant. He +remembered them, he said, as a boy, and added that the white men were +without water. It was, therefore, clear that he alluded to Mr. Oxley's +excursion, northerly from the Lachlan, and I had no doubt on my mind, +that he had been on one of that officer's encampments, and that the +hills to the north of us were those to the opposite base of which he +had penetrated. I was determined, therefore, if practicable, to reach +these hills, deeming it a matter of great importance to connect the +surveys, but I deferred my journey for a day or two, in hopes, from the +continued northerly course of the river, that we should have approached +them nearer. + +In the evening we fell in with some more blacks, among whom were two +brothers, of those who were acting as our guides. One had a very pretty +girl as a wife, and all the four brothers were very good-looking young +men. There cannot, I should think, be a numerous population on the +banks of the Morumbidgee, from the fact of our having seen not more +than fifty in an extent of more than 180 miles. They are apparently +scattered along it in families. I was rather surprised that my boy +understood their language well, since it certainly differed from that +of the Macquarie tribes, but nevertheless as these people do not wander +far, our information as to what was before us was very gradually +arrived at, and only as we fell in with the successive families. +Moreover, as my boy was very young, it may be that he was more eager in +communicating to those who had no idea of them, the wonders he had +seen, than in making inquiries on points that were indifferent to him. + +CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. + +We passed a very large plain in the course of the day, which was +bounded by forests of box, cypress, and the acacia pendula, of red +sandy soil and parched appearance. The Morumbidgee evidently overflows +a part of the lands we crossed, to a greater extent than heretofore, +though the alluvial deposits beyond its influence were still both rich +and extensive. The crested pigeon made its appearance on the acacias, +which I took to be a sure sign of our approach to a country more than +ordinarily subject to overflow; since on the Macquarie and the Darling, +those birds were found only to inhabit the regions of marshes, or +spaces covered by the acacia pendula, or the polygonum. We had not, +however, yet seen any of the latter plant, although we were shortly +destined to be almost lost amidst fields of it. + +CHANGE IN THE COUNTRY. + +We were now approaching that parallel of longitude in which the other +known rivers of New Holland had been found to exhaust themselves; the +least change therefore, for the worse was sufficient to raise my +apprehensions; yet, although the Morumbidgee had received no tributary +from the Dumot downwards, and was leading us into an apparently endless +level, I saw no indication of its decreasing in size, or in the +rapidity of its current. Certainly, however, I had, from the character +of the country around us, an anticipation that a change was about to +take place in it, and this anticipation was verified in the course of +the following day. The alluvial flats gradually decreased in breadth, +and we journeyed mostly over extensive and barren plains, which in many +places approached so near the river as to form a part of its bank. They +were covered with the salsolaceous class of plants, so common in the +interior, in a red sandy soil, and were as even as a bowling green. The +alluvial spaces near the river became covered with reeds, and, though +subject to overflow at every partial rise of it, were so extremely +small as scarcely to afford food for our cattle. Flooded-gum trees of +lofty size grew on these reedy spaces, and marked the line of the +river, but the timber of the interior appeared stunted and useless. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES; MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES. + +We found this part of the Morumbidgee much more populous than its upper +branches. When we halted, we had no fewer than forty-one natives with +us, of whom the young men were the least numerous. They allowed us to +choose a place for ourselves before they formed their own camp, and +studiously avoided encroaching on our ground so as to appear +troublesome. Their manners were those of a quiet and inoffensive +people, and their appearance in some measure prepossessing. The old men +had lofty foreheads, and stood exceedingly erect. The young men were +cleaner is their persons and were better featured than any we had seen, +some of them having smooth hair and an almost Asiatic cast of +countenance. On the other hand, the women and children were disgusting +objects. The latter were much subject to diseases, and were dreadfully +emaciated. It is evident that numbers of them die in their infancy for +want of care and nourishment. We remarked none at the age of incipient +puberty, but the most of them under six. In stating that the men were +more prepossessing than any we had seen, I would not be understood to +mean that they differed in any material point either from the natives +of the coast, or of the most distant interior to which I had been, for +they were decidedly the same race, and had the same leading features +and customs, as far as the latter could be observed. The sunken eye and +overhanging eyebrow, the high cheek-bone and thick lip, distended +nostrils, the nose either short or acquiline, together with a stout +bust and slender extremities, and both curled and smooth hair, marked +the natives of the Morumbidgee as well as those of the Darling. They +were evidently sprung from one common stock, the savage and scattered +inhabitants of a rude and inhospitable land. In customs they differed +in no material point from the coast natives, and still less from the +tribes on the Darling and the Castlereagh. They extract the front +tooth, lacerate their bodies, to raise the flesh, cicatrices being +their chief ornament; procure food by the same means, paint in the same +manner, and use the same weapons, as far as the productions of the +country will allow them. But as the grass-tree is not found westward of +the mountains, they make a light spear of a reed, similar to that of +which the natives of the southern islands form their arrows. These they +use for distant combat, and not only carry in numbers, but throw with +the boomerang to a great distance and with unerring precision, making +them to all intents and purposes as efficient as the bow and arrow. +They have a ponderous spear for close fight, and others of different +sizes for the chase. With regard to their laws, I believe they are +universally the same all over the known parts of New South Wales. The +old men have alone the privilege of eating the emu; and so submissive +are the young men to this regulation, that if, from absolute hunger or +under other pressing circumstances, one of them breaks through it, +either during a hunting excursion, or whilst absent from his tribe, he +returns under a feeling of conscious guilt, and by his manner betrays +his guilt, sitting apart from the men, and confessing his misdemeanour +to the chief at the first interrogation, upon which he is obliged to +undergo a slight punishment. This evidently is a law of policy and +necessity, for if the emus were allowed to be indiscriminately +slaughtered, they would soon become extinct. Civilised nations may +learn a wholesome lesson even from savages, as in this instance of +their forebearance. For somewhat similar reasons, perhaps, married +people alone are here permitted to eat ducks. They hold their +corrobories, (midnight ceremonies), and sing the same melancholy ditty +that breaks the stillness of night on the shores of Jervis' Bay, or on +the banks of the Macquarie; and during the ceremony imitate the several +birds and beasts with which they are acquainted. If these inland tribes +differ in anything from those on the coast, it is in the mode of +burying their dead, and, partially, in their language. Like all +savages, they consider their women as secondary objects, oblige them to +procure their own food, or throw to them over their shoulders the bones +they have already picked, with a nonchalance that is extremely amusing; +and, on the march, make them beasts of burden to carry their very +weapons. The population of the Morumbidgee, as far as we had descended +it at this time, did not exceed from ninety to a hundred souls. I am +persuaded that disease and accidents consign many of them to a +premature grave. + +MIRAGE. + +From this camp, one family only accompanied us. We journeyed due west +over plains of great extent. The soil upon them was soft and yielding, +in some places being a kind of light earth covered with rhagodiae, in +others a red tenacious clay, overrun by the misembrianthemum and +salsolae. Nothing could exceed the apparent barrenness of these plains, +or the cheerlessness of the landscape. We had left all high lands +behind us, and were now on an extensive plain, bounded in the distance +by low trees or by dark lines of cypresses. The lofty gum-trees on the +river followed its windings, and, as we opened the points, they +appeared, from the peculiar effect of a mirage, as bold promontories +jutting into the ocean, having literally the blue tint of distance. +This mirage floated in a light tremulous vapour on the ground, and not +only deceived us with regard to the extent of the plains, and the +appearance of objects, but hid the trees, in fact, from our view +altogether; so that, in moving, as we imagined, upon the very point or +angle of the river, we found as we neared it, that the trees stretched +much further into the plain, and were obliged to alter our course to +round them. The heated state of the atmosphere, and the sandy nature of +the country could alone have caused a mirage so striking in its +effects, as this,--exceeding considerably similar appearances noticed +during the first expedition. The travelling was so heavy, that I was +obliged to make a short day's journey, and when we struck the river for +the purpose of halting, it had fallen off very much in appearance, and +was evidently much contracted, with low banks and a sandy bed. It was +difficult to account for this sudden change, but when I gazed on the +extent of level country before me, I began to dread that this hitherto +beautiful stream would ultimately disappoint us. + +EXCURSION TOWARDS A RIDGE OF HILLS. + +I had deferred my intended excursion to the hills under which I +imagined Mr. Oxley had encamped, until we were out of sight of them, +and I now feared that it was almost too late to undertake it, but I was +still anxious to determine a point in which I felt considerable +interest. I was the more desirous of surveying the country to the +northward, because of the apparent eagerness with which the natives had +caught at the word Colare, which I recollected having heard a black on +the Macquarie make use of in speaking of the Lachlan. They pointed to +the N.N.W., and making a sweep with the arm raised towards the sky, +seemed to intimate that a large sheet of water existed in that +direction; and added that it communicated with the Morumbidgee more to +the westward. This information confirmed still more my impressions with +regard to Mr. Oxley's line of route; and, as I found a ready volunteer +in M'Leay, I gave the party in charge to Harris until I should rejoin +him, and turned back towards the hills, with the intention of reaching +them if possible. No doubt we should have done so had it not been for +the nature of the ground over which we travelled, and the impossibility +of our exceeding a walk. We rode to a distance of 18 miles, but still +found ourselves far short of the hills, and therefore gave up the +point. I considered, however, that we were about the same distance to +the south, as Mr. Oxley had been to the north of them, and in taking +bearings of the highest points, I afterwards found that they exactly +tallied with his bearings, supposing him to have taken them from his +camp. + +QUIET DEMEANOUR OF THE NATIVES. + +On our way to the river, we Passed through some dense bushes of +casuarinae and cypresses, to the outskirts of the plains through which +the Morumbidgee winds. We reached the camp two or three hours after +sunset, and found it crowded with natives to the number of 60. They +were extremely quiet and inoffensive in their demeanour, and asked us +to point out where they might sleep, before they ventured to kindle +their fires. One old man, we remarked, had a club foot, and another was +blind, but, as far as we could judge from the glare of the fires, the +generality of them were fine young men, and supported themselves in a +very erect posture when standing or walking. There were many children +with the women, among whom colds seemed to prevail. It blew heavily +from the N.W. during the night, and a little rain fell in the early +part of the morning. Our route during the day, was over as melancholy a +tract as ever was travelled. The plains to the N. and N.W. bounded the +horizon; not a tree of any kind was visible upon them. It was equally +open to the S., and it appeared as if the river was decoying us into a +desert, there to leave us in difficulty and in distress. The very +mirage had the effect of boundlessness in it, by blending objects in +one general hue; or, playing on the ground, it cheated us with an +appearance of water, and on arriving at the spot, we found a +continuation of the same scorching plain, over which we were moving, +instead of the stream we had hoped for. + +The cattle about this time began to suffer, and, anxious as I was to +push on, I was obliged to shorten my journeys, according to +circumstances. Amidst the desolation around us, the river kept alive +our hopes. If it traversed deserts, it might reach fertile lands, and +it was to the issue of the journey that we had to look for success. It +here, however, evidently overflowed its banks more extensively than +heretofore, and broad belts of reeds were visible on either side of it, +on which the animals exclusively subsisted. Most of the natives had +followed us, and their patience and abstinence surprised me +exceedingly. Some of them had been more than twenty-four hours without +food, and yet seemed as little disposed to seek it as ever. I really +thought they expected me to supply their wants, but as I could not act +so liberal a scale, George M'Leay undeceived them; after which they +betook themselves to the river, and got a supply of muscles. I rather +think their going so frequently into the water engenders a catarrh, or +renders them more liable to it than they otherwise would be. In the +afternoon the wind shifted to the S.W. It blew a hurricane; and the +temperature of the air was extremely low. The natives felt the cold +beyond belief and kindled large fires. In the morning, when we moved +away, the most of them started with fire-sticks to keep themselves +warm; but they dropped off one by one, and at noon we found ourselves +totally deserted. + +DREARINESS OF THE LANDSCAPE. + +It is impossible for me to describe the kind of country we were now +traversing, or the dreariness of the view it presented. The plains were +still open to the horizon, but here and there a stunted gum-tree, or a +gloomy cypress, seemed placed by nature as mourners over the +surrounding desolation. Neither beast nor bird inhabited these lonely +and inhospitable regions, over which the silence of the grave seemed to +reign. We had not, for days past, seen a blade of grass, so that the +animals could not have been in very good condition. We pushed on, +however, sixteen miles, in consequence of the coolness of the weather. +We observed little change in the river in that distance, excepting that +it had taken up a muddy bottom, and lost all the sand that used to fill +it. The soil and productions on the plains continued unchanged in every +respect. From this time to the 22nd, the country presented the same +aspect. Occasional groups of cypress showed themselves on narrow sandy +ridges, or partial brushes extended from the river, consisting chiefly +of the acacia pendula, the stenochylus, and the nut I have already +noticed. The soil on which they grew was, if possible, worse than that +of the barren plain which we were traversing; and their colour and +drooping state rendered the desolate landscape still more dreary. + +On the 21st, we found the same singular substance (gypsum) embedded in +the bank of the river that had been collected, during the former +expedition, on the banks of the Darling; and hope, which is always +uppermost in the human breast, induced me to think that we were fast +approaching that stream. My observations placed me in 34 degrees 17 +minutes 15 seconds S. and 145 degrees of E. longitude. + +BLACK BOY DESERTS. + +On the 22nd, my black boy deserted me. I was not surprised at his doing +so, neither did I regret his loss, for he had been of little use under +any circumstances. He was far too cunning for our purpose. I know not +that the term ingratitude can be applied to one in his situation, and +in whose bosom nature had implanted a love of freedom. We learnt from +four blacks, with whom he had spoken, and who came to us in the +afternoon, that he had gone up the river,--as I conjectured, to the +last large tribe we had left, with whom he appeared to become very +intimate. + +A creek coming from the N.N.W. here fell into the Morumbidgee; a proof +that the general decline of country was really to the south, although a +person looking over it would have supposed the contrary. + +COUNTRY SUBJECT TO INUNDATION. + +We started on the 23rd, with the same boundlessness of plain on either +side of us; but in the course of the morning a change took place, both +in soil and productions; and from the red sandy loam, and salsolaceous +plants, amidst which we had been toiling, we got upon a light tenacious +and blistered soil, evidently subject to frequent overflow, and fields +of polygonum junceum, amidst which, both the crested pigeon and the +black quail were numerous. The drays and animals sank so deep in this, +that we were obliged to make for the river, and keep upon its immediate +banks. Still, with all the appearance of far-spread inundation, it +continued undiminished in size, and apparently in the strength of its +current. Its channel was deeper than near the mountains, but its +breadth was about the same. + +On the 24th, we were again entangled amidst fields of polygonum, +through which we laboured until after eleven, when we gained a firmer +soil. Some cypresses appeared upon our right, in a dark line, and I +indulged hopes that a change was about to take place in the nature of +the country. We soon, however, got on a light rotten earth, and were +again obliged to make for the river, with the teams completely +exhausted. We had not travelled many miles from our last camp, yet it +struck me, that the river had fallen off in appearance. I examined it +with feelings of intense anxiety, certain, as I was, that the flooded +spaces, over which we had been travelling would, sooner or later, be +succeeded by a country overgrown with reeds. The river evidently +overflowed its banks, on both sides, for many miles, nor had I a doubt +that, at some periods, the space northward, between it and the Lachlan, +presented the appearance of one vast sea. The flats of polygonum +stretched away to the N.W. to an amazing distance, as well as in a +southerly direction, and the very nature of the soil bore testimony to +its flooded origin. But the most unaccountable circumstance to me was, +that it should be entirely destitute of vegetation, with the exception +of the gloomy and leafless bramble I have noticed. + +M'Leay, who was always indefatigable in his pursuit after subjects of +natural history, shot a cockatoo, of a new species, hereabouts, having +a singularly shaped upper mandible. It was white, with scarlet down +under the neck feathers, smaller than the common cockatoo, and +remarkable for other peculiarities. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES; THE COLARE OR LACHLAN. + +Two or three natives made their appearance at some distance from the +party, but would not approach it until after we had halted. They then +came to the tents, seven in number, and it was evident from their +manner, that their chief or only object was to pilfer anything they +could. We did not, therefore, treat them with much ceremony. They were +an ill-featured race, and it was only by strict watching during the +night that they were prevented from committing theft. Probably from +seeing that we were aware of their intentions, they left us early, and +pointing somewhat to the eastward of north, said they were going to the +Colare, and on being asked how far it was, they signified that they +should sleep there. I had on a former occasion recollected the term +having been made use of by a black, on the Macquarie, when speaking to +me of the Lachlan, and had questioned one of the young men who was with +us at the time, and who seemed more intelligent than his companions, +respecting it. Immediately catching at the word, he had pointed to the +N.N.W., and, making a sweep with his arms raised towards the sky had +intimated, evidently, that a large sheet of water existed in that +direction, in the same manner that another black had done on a former +occasion: on being further questioned, he stated that this communicated +with the Morumbidgee more to the westward, and on my expressing a +desire to go to it, he said we could not do so under four days. We had, +it appeared, by the account of the seven natives, approached within one +day's journey of it, and, as I thought it would be advisable to gain a +little knowledge of the country to the north, I suggested to M'Leay to +ride in that direction, while the party should be at rest, with some +good feed for the cattle that fortune had pointed out to us. + +EXCURSION TOWARDS THE LACHLAN. + +Our horses literally sank up to their knees on parts of the great plain +over which we had in the first instance to pass, and we rode from three +to four miles before we caught sight of a distant wood at its northern +extremity; the view from the river having been for the last two or +three days, as boundless as the ocean. As we approached the wood, two +columns of smoke rose from it, considerably apart, evidently the fires +of natives near water. We made for the central space between them, +having a dead acacia scrub upon our right. On entering the wood, we +found that it contained for the most part, flooded-gum, under which +bulrushes and reeds were mixed together. The whole space seemed liable +to overflow, and we crossed numerous little drains, that intersected +each other in every direction. From the resemblance of the ground to +that at the bottom of the marshes of the Macquarie, I prognosticated to +my companion that we should shortly come upon a creek, and we had not +ridden a quarter of a mile further, when we found ourselves on the +banks of one of considerable size. Crossing it, we proceeded northerly, +until we got on the outskirts of a plain of red sandy soil, covered +with rhagodia alone, and without a tree upon the visible horizon. The +country appeared to be rising before us, but was extremely depressed to +the eastward. After continuing along this plain for some time, I became +convinced from appearances, that we were receding from water, and that +the fires of the natives, which were no longer visible, must have been +on the creek we had crossed, that I judged to be leading W.S.W. from +the opposite quarter. We had undoubtedly struck below to the westward +of the Colare or Lachlan, and the creek was the channel of +communication between it and the Morumbidgee, at least such was the +natural conclusion at which I arrived. Having no further object in +continuing a northerly course, we turned to the S.E., and, after again +passing the creek, struck away for the camp on a S. by W. course, and +passed through a dense brush of cypress and casuarina in our way to it. + +CONNECTION OF LACHLAN WITH MORUMBIDGEE. + +Considering our situation as connected with the marshes of the Lachlan, +I cannot but infer that the creek we struck upon during this excursion +serves as a drain to the latter, to conduct its superfluous waters into +the Morumbidgee in times of flood, as those of the Macquarie are +conducted by the creek at the termination of its marshes into +Morrisset's Chain of Ponds. It will be understood that I only surmise +this. I argue from analogy, not from proof. Whether I am correct or +not, my knowledge of the facts I have stated, tended very much to +satisfy my mind as to the LAY of the interior; and to revive my hopes +that the Morumbidgee would not fail us, although there was no +appearance of the country improving. + +COUNTRY COVERED WITH REEDS. + +We started on the 26th, on a course somewhat to the N.W., and traversed +plains of the same wearisome description as those I have already +described. The wheels of the drays sank up to their axle-trees, and the +horses above their fetlocks at every step. The fields of polygonum +spread on every side of us like a dark sea, and the only green object +within range of our vision was the river line of trees. In several +instances, the force of both teams was put to one dray, to extricate it +from the bed into which it had sunk, and the labour was considerably +increased from the nature of the weather. The wind was blowing as if +through a furnace, from the N.N.E., and the dust was flying in clouds, +so as to render it almost suffocating to remain exposed to it. This was +the only occasion upon which we felt the hot winds in the interior. We +were, about noon, endeavouring to gain a point of a wood at which I +expected to come upon the river again, but it was impossible for the +teams to reach it without assistance. I therefore sent M'Leay forward, +with orders to unload the pack animals as soon as he should make the +river, and send them back to help the teams. He had scarcely been +separated from me 20 minutes, when one of the men came galloping back +to inform me that no river was to be found--that the country beyond the +wood was covered with reeds as far as the eye could reach, and that Mr. +M'Leay had sent him back for instructions. This intelligence stunned me +for a moment or two, and I am sure its effect upon the men was very +great. They had unexpectedly arrived at a part of the interior similar +to one they had held in dread, and conjured up a thousand difficulties +and privations. I desired the man to recall Mr. M'Leay; and, after +gaining the wood, moved outside of it at right angles to my former +course, and reached the river, after a day of severe toil and exposure, +at half-past five. The country, indeed, bore every resemblance to that +around the marshes of the Macquarie, but I was too weary to make any +further effort: indeed it was too late for me undertake anything until +the morning. + +ANXIOUS COGITATIONS; SURVEY OF RIVER AND ENVIRONS. + +The circumstances in which we were so unexpectedly placed, occupied my +mind so fully that I could not sleep; and I awaited the return of light +with the utmost anxiety. If we were indeed on the outskirts of marshes +similar to those I had on a former occasion found so much difficulty in +examining, I foresaw that in endeavouring to move round then I should +recede from water, and place the expedition in jeopardy, probably, +without gaining any determinate point, as it would be necessary for me +to advance slowly and with caution. Our provisions, however, being +calculated to last only to a certain period, I was equally reluctant to +delay our operations. My course was, therefore, to be regulated by the +appearance of the country and of the river, which I purposed examining +with the earliest dawn. If the latter should be found to run into a +region of reeds, a boat would be necessary to enable me to ascertain +its direction; but, if ultimately it should be discovered to exhaust +itself, we should have to strike into the interior on a N.W. course, in +search of the Darling. I could not think of putting the whale-boat +together in our then state of uncertainty, and it struck me that a +smaller one could sooner he prepared for the purposes for which I +should require it. These considerations, together with the view I had +taken of the measures I might at last be forced into, determined me, on +rising, to order Clayton to fell a suitable tree, and to prepare a +saw-pit. The labour was of no consideration, and even if eventually the +boat should not be wanted, no injury would arise, and it was better to +take time by the forelock. Having marked a tree preparatory to leaving +the camp, M'Leay and I started at an early hour on an excursion of +deeper interest than any we had as yet undertaken; to examine the +reeds, not only for the purpose of ascertaining their extent, if +possible, but also to guide us in our future measures. We rode for some +miles along the river side, but observed in it no signs, either of +increase or of exhaustion. Its waters, though turbid, were deep, and +its current still rapid. Its banks, too, were lofty, and showed no +evidence of decreasing in height, so as to occasion an overflow of +them, as had been the case with the Macquarie. We got among vast bodies +of reeds, but the plains of the interior were visible beyond them. We +were evidently in a hollow, and the decline of country was plainly to +the southward of west. Every thing tended to strengthen my conviction +that we were still far from the termination of the river. The character +it had borne throughout, and its appearance now so far to the westward, +gave me the most lively hopes that it would make good its way through +the vast level into which it fell, and that its termination would +accord with its promise. Besides, I daily anticipated its junction with +some stream of equal, if not of greater magnitude from the S.E. I was +aware that my resolves must be instant, decisive, and immediately acted +upon, as on firmness and promptitude at this crisis the success of the +expedition depended. About noon I checked my horse, and rather to the +surprise of my companion, intimated to him my intention of returning to +the camp, He naturally asked what I purposed doing. I told him it +appeared to me more than probable that the Morumbidgee would hold good +its course to some fixed point, now that it had reached a meridian +beyond the known rivers of the interior. It was certain, from the +denseness of the reeds, and the breadth of the belts, that the teams +could not be brought any farther, and that, taking every thing into +consideration, I had resolved on a bold and desperate measure, that of +building the whale-boat, and sending home the drays. Our appearance in +camp so suddenly, surprised the men not more than the orders I gave. +They all thought I had struck on some remarkable change of country, and +were anxious to know my ultimate views. It was not my intention +however, immediately to satisfy their curiosity. I had to study their +characters as long as I could, in order to select those best qualified +to accompany me on the desperate adventure for which I was preparing. + +BOAT BUILDING. + +The attention both of M'Leay, and myself, was turned to the hasty +building of the whale-boat. A shed was erected, and every necessary +preparation made, and although Clayton had the keel of the small boat +already laid down, and some planks prepared, she was abandoned for the +present, and, after four days more of arduous labour, the whale-boat +was painted and in the water. From her dimensions, it appeared to me +impossible that she would hold all our provisions and stores, for her +after-part had been fitted up as an armoury, which took away +considerably from her capacity of stowage. The small boat would still, +therefore, be necessary, and she was accordingly re-laid, for half the +dimensions of the large boat, and in three days was alongside her +consort in the river. Thus, in seven days we had put together a boat, +twenty-seven feet in length, had felled a tree from the forest, with +which we had built a second of half the size, had painted both, and had +them at a temporary wharf ready for loading. Such would not have been +the case had not our hearts been in the work, as the weather was close +and sultry, and we found it a task of extreme labour. In the intervals +between the hours of work, I prepared my despatches for the Governor, +and when they were closed, it only remained for me to select six hands, +the number I intended should accompany me down the river, and to load +the boats, ere we should once more proceed in the further obedience of +our instructions. + +COMPLETION OF ARRANGEMENTS FOR EMBARKATION. + +It was impossible that I could do without Clayton, whose perseverance +and industry had mainly contributed to the building of the boats; of +the other prisoners, I chose Mulholland and Macnamee; leaving the rest +in charge of Robert Harris, whose steady conduct had merited my +approbation. My servant, Harris, Hopkinson, and Fraser, of course, made +up the crews. The boats were loaded in the evening of Jan. 6th, as it +had been necessary to give the paint a little time to dry. On the 4th, +I had sent Clayton and Mulholland to the nearest cypress range for a +mast and spar, and on the evening of that day some blacks had visited +us; but they sat on the bank of the river, preserving a most determined +silence; and, at length, left us abruptly, and apparently in great ill +humour. In the disposition of the loads, I placed all the flour, the +tea, and tobacco, in the whaleboat. The meat-casks, still, and +carpenters' tools, were put into the small boat. + +As soon as the different arrangements were completed, I collected the +men, and told off those who were to accompany me. I then gave the rest +over in charge to Harris, and, in adverting to their regular conduct +hitherto, trusted they would be equally careful while under his orders. +I then directed the last remaining sheep to be equally divided among +us; and it was determined that, for fear of accidents, Harris should +remain stationary for a week, at the expiration of which time, he would +be at liberty to proceed to Goulburn Plains, there to receive his +instructions from Sydney; while the boats were to proceed at an early +hour of the morning down the river,--whether ever to return again being +a point of the greatest uncertainty. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Embarkation of the party in the boats, and voyage down the +Morumbidgee--The skiff swamped by striking on a sunken tree--Recovery +of boat and its loading--Region of reeds--Dangers of the +navigation--Contraction of the channel--Reach the junction of a large +river--Intercourse with the natives on its banks--Character of the +country below the junction of the rivers--Descent of a dangerous +rapid--Warlike demonstrations of a tribe of natives--Unexpected +deliverance from a conflict with them--Junction of another river--Give +the name of the "Murray" to the principal stream. + + +The camp was a scene of bustle and confusion long before day-light. The +men whom I had selected to accompany me were in high spirits, and so +eager to commence their labours that they had been unable to sleep, but +busied themselves from the earliest dawn in packing up their various +articles of clothing, &c. We were prevented from taking our departure +so early as I had intended, by rain that fell about six. At a little +after seven, however, the weather cleared up, the morning mists blew +over our heads, and the sun struck upon us with his usual fervour. As +soon as the minor things were stowed away, we bade adieu to Harris and +his party; and shortly after, embarked on the bosom of that stream +along the banks of which we had journeyed for so many miles. + +Notwithstanding that we only used two oars, our progress down the river +was rapid. Hopkinson had arranged the loads so well, that all the party +could sit at their ease, and Fraser was posted in the bow of the boat, +with gun in hand, to fire at any new bird or beast that we might +surprise in our silent progress. The little boat, which I shall +henceforward call the skiff, was fastened by a painter to our stern. + +SUPPOSED JUNCTION OF LACHLAN. + +As the reader will have collected from what has already fallen under +his notice, the country near the depot was extensively covered with +reeds, beyond which vast plains of polygonum stretched away. From the +bed of the river we could not observe the change that took place in it +as we passed along, so that we found it necessary to land, from time to +time, for the purpose of noting down its general appearance. At about +fifteen miles from the depot, we came upon a large creek-junction from +the N.E., which I did not doubt to be the one M'Leay and I had crossed +on the 25th of December. It was much larger than the creek of the +Macquarie, and was capable of holding a very great body of water, +although evidently too small to contain all that occasionally rushed +from its source. I laid it down as the supposed junction of the +Lachlan, since I could not, against the corroborating facts in my +possession, doubt its originating in the marshes of that river. Should +this, eventually, prove to be the case, the similar termination of the +two streams traced by Mr. Oxley will be a singular feature in the +geography of the interior. + +EMUS--NATIVE TOMB. + +We were just about to land, to prepare our dinner, when two emus swam +across the river ahead of us. This was an additional inducement for us +to land, but we were unfortunately too slow, and the birds escaped us. +We had rushed in to the right bank, and found on ascending it, that the +reeds with which it had hitherto been lined, had partially ceased. A +large plain, similar to those over which we had wandered prior to our +gaining the flooded region, stretched away to a considerable distance +behind us, and was backed by cypresses and brush. The soil of the plain +was a red sandy loam, covered sparingly with salsolae and shrubs; thus +indicating that the country still preserved its barren character, and +that it is the same from north to south. Among the shrubs we found a +tomb that appeared to have been recently constructed. No mound had been +raised over the body, but an oval hollow shed occupied the centre of +the burial place, that was lined with reeds and bound together with +strong net-work. Round this, the usual walks were cut, and the recent +traces of women's feet were visible upon them, but we saw no natives, +although, from the number and size of the paths that led from the +river, in various directions across the plain, I was led to conclude, +that, at certain seasons, it is hereabouts numerously frequented. +Fraser gathered some rushes similar to those used by the natives of the +Darling in the fabrication of their nets, and as they had not before +been observed, we judged them, of course, to be a sign of our near +approach to that river. + +ASPECT OF COUNTRY AND RIVER. + +As soon as we had taken a hasty dinner, we again embarked, and pursued +our journey. I had hoped, from the appearance of the country to the +north of us, although that to the south gave little indication of any +change, that we should soon clear the reeds; but at somewhat less than +a mile they closed in upon the river, and our frequent examination of +the neighbourhood on either side of it only tended to confirm the fact, +that we were passing through a country subject to great and extensive +inundation. We pulled up at half-past five, and could scarcely find +space enough to pitch our tents. + +The Morumbidgee kept a decidedly westerly course during the day. Its +channel was not so tortuous as we expected to have found it, nor did it +offer any obstruction to the passage of the boats. Its banks kept a +general height of eight feet, five of which were of alluvial soil, and +both its depth and its current were considerable. We calculated having +proceeded from 28 to 30 miles, though, perhaps, not more than half that +distance in a direct line. No rain fell during the day, but we +experienced some heavy squalls from the E.S.E. + +THE SKIFF STRIKES AND SINKS--LABOUR IN RECOVERING ARTICLES LOST. + +The second day of our journey from the depot was marked by an accident +that had well nigh obliged us to abandon the further pursuit of the +river, by depriving us of part of our means of carrying it into effect. +We had proceeded, as usual, at an early hour in the morning, and not +long after we started, fell in with the blacks who had visited us last, +and who were now in much better humour than upon that occasion. As they +had their women with them, we pushed in to the bank, and distributed +some presents, after which we dropped quietly down the river. Its +general depth had been such as to offer few obstructions to our +progress, but about an hour after we left the natives, the skiff struck +upon a sunken log, and immediately filling, went down in about twelve +feet of water, The length of the painter prevented any strain upon the +whale-boat, but the consequence of so serious an accident at once +flashed upon our minds. That we should suffer considerably, we could +not doubt, but our object was to get the skiff up with the least +possible delay, to prevent the fresh water from mixing with the brine, +in the casks of meat. Some short time, however, necessarily elapsed +before we could effect this, and when at last the skiff was hauled +ashore, we found that we were too late to prevent the mischief that we +had anticipated. All the things had been fastened in the boat, but +either from the shock, or the force of the current, one of the pork +casks, the head of the still, and the greater part of the carpenter's +tools, had been thrown out of her. As the success of the expedition +might probably depend upon the complete state of the still, I +determined to use every effort for its recovery: but I was truly at a +loss how to find it; for the waters of the river were extremely turbid. +In this dilemma, the blacks would have been of the most essential +service, but they were far behind us, so that we had to depend on our +own exertions alone. I directed the whale-boat to be moored over the +place where the accident had happened, and then used the oars on either +side of her, to feel along the bottom of the river, in hopes that by +these means we should strike upon the articles we had lost. However +unlikely such a measure was to prove successful, we recovered in the +course of the afternoon, every thing but the still-head, and a cask of +paint. Whenever the oar struck against the substance that appeared, by +its sound or feel to belong to us, it was immediately pushed into the +sand, and the upper end of the oar being held by two men, another +descended by it to the bottom of the river, remaining under water as +long as he could, to ascertain what was immediately within arm's length +of him. This work was, as may be imagined, most laborious, and the men +at length became much exhausted. They would not, however, give up the +search for the still head, more especially after M'Leay, in diving, had +descended upon it. Had he, by ascertaining his position, left it to us +to heave it up, our labours would soon have ended; but, in his anxiety +for its recovery, he tried to bring it up, when finding it too heavy, +he let it go, and the current again swept it away. + +At sunset, we were obliged to relinquish our task, the men complaining +of violent head-aches, which the nature of the day increased. Thinking +our own efforts would be unavailing, I directed two of the men to go up +the river for the blacks, at day-light in the morning, and set the +reeds on fire to attract their notice. The day had been cloudy and +sultry in the afternoon, the clouds collecting in the N.E.: we heard +the distant thunder, and expected to have been deluged with rain. None, +however, fell, although we were anxious for moisture to change the +oppressive state of the atmosphere. The fire I had kindled raged behind +us, and threw dense columns of smoke into the sky, that cast over the +landscape a shade of the most dismal gloom. We were not in a humour to +admire the picturesque, but soon betook ourselves to rest, and after +such a day of labour as that we had undergone, I dispensed with the +night guard. + +PILFERING OF NATIVES. + +In the morning we resumed our search for the still head, which +Hopkinson at length fortunately struck with his oar. It had been swept +considerably below the place at which M'Leay had dived, or we should +most probably have found it sooner. With its recovery, all our fatigues +were at once forgotten, and I ordered the breakfast to be got ready +preparatory to our reloading the skiff. Fraser and Mulholland, who had +left the camp at daylight, had not yet returned. I was sitting in the +tent, when Macnamee came to inform me that one of the frying-pans was +missing, which had been in use the evening previous, for that he +himself had placed it on the stump of a tree, and he therefore supposed +a native dog had run away with it. Soon after this, another loss was +reported to me, and it was at last discovered that an extensive robbery +had been committed upon us during the night, and that, in addition to +the frying-pan, three cutlasses, and five tomahawks, with the pea of +the steelyards, had been carried away. I was extremely surprised at +this instance of daring in the natives, and determined, if possible, to +punish it. About ten, Fraser and Mulholland returned with two blacks. +Fraser told me he saw several natives on our side of the river, as he +was returning, to whom those who were with him spoke, and I felt +convinced from their manner and hesitation, that they were aware of the +trick that had been played upon us. However, as Fraser had promised +them a tomahawk to induce them to accompany him, I fulfilled the +promise. + +CONTINUE OUR VOYAGE. + +Leaving this unlucky spot, we made good about sixteen miles during the +afternoon. The river maintained its breadth and depth nor were the +reeds continuous upon its banks. We passed several plains that were +considerably elevated above the alluvial deposits, and the general +appearance of the country induced me strongly to hope that we should +shortly get out of the region of reeds, or the great flooded concavity +on which we had fixed our depot; but the sameness of vegetation, and +the seemingly diminutive size of the timber in the distance, argued +against any change for the better in the soil of the interior. Having +taken the precaution of shortening the painter of the skiff, we found +less difficulty in steering her clear of obstacles, and made rapid +progress down the Morumbidgee during the first cool and refreshing +hours of the morning. The channel of the river became somewhat less +contracted, but still retained sufficient depth for larger boats than +ours, and preserved a general westerly course. Although no decline of +country was visible to the eye, the current in places ran very strong. +It is impossible for me to convey to the reader's mind an idea of the +nature of the country through which we passed. On this day the +favourable appearances, noticed yesterday, ceased almost as soon as we +embarked. On the 10th, reeds lined the banks of the river on both +sides, without any break, and waved like gloomy streamers over its +turbid waters; while the trees stood leafless and sapless in the midst +of them. Wherever we landed, the same view presented itself--a waving +expanse of reeds, and a country as flat as it is possible to imagine +one. The eye could seldom penetrate beyond three quarters of a mile, +and the labour of walking through the reeds was immense; but within our +observation all was green and cheerless. The morning had been extremely +cold, with a thick haze at E.S.E. About 2 p.m. it came on to rain +heavily, so that we did not stir after that hour. + +CONTRACTION OF THE CHANNEL. + +I had remarked that the Morumbidgee was not, from the depot downwards, +so broad or so fine a river as it certainly is at the foot of the +mountain ranges, where it gains the level country. The observations of +the last two days had impressed upon my mind an idea that it was +rapidly falling off, and I began to dread that it would finally +terminate in one of those fatal marshes in which the Macquarie and the +Lachlan exhaust themselves. My hope of a more favourable issue was +considerably damped by the general appearance of the surrounding +country; and from the circumstance of our not having as yet passed a +single tributary. As we proceeded down the river, its channel gradually +contracted, and immense trees that had been swept down it by floods, +rendered the navigation dangerous and intricate. Its waters became so +turbid, that it was impossible to see objects in it, notwithstanding +the utmost diligence on the part of the men. + +About noon, we fell in with a large tribe of natives, but had great +difficulty in bringing them to visit us. If they had HEARD of white +men, we were evidently the first they had ever SEEN. They approached us +in the most cautious manner, and were unable to subdue their fears as +long as they remained with us. Collectively, these people could not +have amounted to less than one hundred and twenty in number. + +ANOTHER ACCIDENT. + +As we pushed off from the bank, after having stayed with them about +half an hour, the whaleboat struck with such violence on a sunken log, +that she immediately leaked on her starboard side. Fortunately she was +going slowly at the time, or she would most probably have received some +more serious injury. One of the men was employed during the remainder +of the afternoon in bailing her out, and we stopped sooner than we +should otherwise have done, in order to ascertain the extent of damage, +and to repair it. The reeds terminated on both sides of the river some +time before we pulled up, and the country round the camp was more +elevated than usual, and bore the appearance of open forest pasture +land, the timber upon it being a dwarf species of box, and the soil a +light tenacious earth. + +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER. + +About a mile below our encampment of the 12th, we at length came upon a +considerable creek-junction from the S.E. Below it, the river increased +both in breadth and depth; banks were lofty and perpendicular, and even +the lowest levels were but partially covered with reeds. We met with +fewer obstructions in consequence, and pursued our journey with +restored confidence. Towards evening a great change also took place in +the aspect of the country, which no longer bore general marks of +inundation. The level of the interior was broken by a small hill to the +right of the stream, but the view from its summit rather damped than +encouraged my hopes of any improvement. The country was covered with +wood and brush, and the line of the horizon was unbroken by the least +swell. We were on an apparently boundless flat, without any fixed point +on which to direct our movements, nor was there a single object for the +eye to rest upon, beyond the dark and gloomy wood that surrounded us on +every side. + +Soon after passing this hill, the whale-boat struck upon a line of +sunken rocks, but fortunately escaped without injury. Mulholland, who +was standing in the bow, was thrown out of her, head foremost, and got +a good soaking, but soon recovered himself. The composition of the rock +was iron-stone, and it is the first formation that occurs westward of +the dividing range. We noticed a few cypresses in the distance, but the +general timber was dwarf-box, or flooded-gum, and a few of the acacia +longa scattered at great distances. In verifying our position by some +lunars, we found ourselves in 142 degrees 46 minutes 30 seconds of east +long., and in lat. 35 degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds S. the mean +variation of the compass being 4 degrees 10 minutes E. it appearing +that we were decreasing the variation as we proceeded westward. + +On the 13th, we passed the first running stream that joins the +Morumbidgee, in a course of more than 340 miles. It came from the S.E., +and made a visible impression on the river at the junction, although in +tracing it up, it appeared to be insignificant in itself. The +circumstance of these tributaries all occurring on the left, evidenced +the level nature of the country to the north. In the afternoon, we +passed a dry creek also from the S.E. which must at times throw a vast +supply of water into the river, since for many miles below, the latter +preserved a breadth of 200 feet, and averaged from 12 to 20 feet in +depth, with banks of from 15 to 18 feet in height. Yet, notwithstanding +its general equality of depth, several rapids occurred, down which the +boats were hurried with great velocity. The body of water in the river +continued undiminished, notwithstanding its increased breadth of +channel; for which reason I should imagine that it is fed by springs, +independently of other supplies. Some few cypresses were again +observed, and the character of the distant country resembled, in every +particular, that of the interior between the Macquarie and the Darling. +The general appearance of the Morumbidgee, from the moment of our +starting on the 13th, to a late hour in the afternoon, had been such as +to encourage my hopes of ultimate success in tracing it down; but about +three o'clock we came to one of those unaccountable and mortifying +changes which had already so frequently excited my apprehension. Its +channel again suddenly contracted, and became almost blocked up with +huge trees, that must have found their way into it down the creeks or +junctions we had lately passed. The rapidity of the current increasing +at the same time, rendered the navigation perplexing and dangerous. We +passed reach after reach, presenting the same difficulties, and were at +length obliged to pull up at 5 p.m., having a scene of confusion and +danger before us that I did not dare to encounter with the evening's +light; for I had not only observed that the men's eye-sight failed them +as the sun descended, and that they mistook shadows for objects under +water, and VICE-VERSA, but the channel had become so narrow that, +although the banks were not of increased height, we were involved in +comparative darkness, under a close arch of trees, and a danger was +hardly seen ere we were hurried past it, almost without the possibility +of avoiding it. The reach at the head of which we stopped, was crowded +with the trunks of trees, the branches of which crossed each other in +every direction, nor could I hope, after a minute examination of the +channel, to succeed in taking the boats safely down so intricate a +passage. + +DANGEROUS NAVIGATION OF THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +We rose in the morning with feelings of apprehension, and uncertainty; +and, indeed, with great doubts on our minds whether we were not thus +early destined to witness the wreck, and the defeat of the expedition. +The men got slowly and cautiously into the boat, and placed themselves +so as to leave no part of her undefended. Hopkinson stood at the bow, +ready with poles to turn her head from anything upon which she might be +drifting. Thus prepared, we allowed her to go with the stream. By +extreme care and attention on the part of the men we passed this +formidable barrier. Hopkinson in particular exerted himself, and more +than once leapt from the boat upon apparently rotten logs of wood, that +I should not have judged capable of bearing his weight, the more +effectually to save the boat. It might have been imagined that where +such a quantity of timber had accumulated, a clearer channel would have +been found below, but such was not the case. In every reach we had to +encounter fresh difficulties. In some places huge trees lay athwart the +stream, under whose arched branches we were obliged to pass; but, +generally speaking, they had been carried, roots foremost, by the +current, and, therefore, presented so many points to receive us, that, +at the rate at which we were going, had we struck full upon any one of +them, it would have gone through and through the boat. About noon we +stopped to repair, or rather to take down the remains of our awning, +which had been torn away; and to breathe a moment from the state of +apprehension and anxiety in which our minds had been kept during the +morning. About one, we again started. The men looked anxiously out +ahead; for the singular change in the river had impressed on them an +idea, that we were approaching its termination, or near some adventure. +On a sudden, the river took a general southern direction, but, in its +tortuous course, swept round to every point of the compass with the +greatest irregularity. We were carried at a fearful rate down its +gloomy and contracted banks, and, in such a moment of excitement, had +little time to pay attention to the country through which we were +passing. It was, however, observed, that chalybeate-springs were +numerous close to the water's edge. At 3 p.m., Hopkinson called out +that we were approaching a junction, and in less than a minute +afterwards, we were hurried into a broad and noble river. + +JUNCTION OF A LARGE RIVER--CHARACTER OF THE RIVER. + +It is impossible for me to describe the effect of so instantaneous a +change of circumstances upon us. The boats were allowed to drift along +at pleasure, and such was the force with which we had been shot out of +the Morumbidgee, that we were carried nearly to the bank opposite its +embouchure, whilst we continued to gaze in silent astonishment on the +capacious channel we had entered; and when we looked for that by which +we had been led into it, we could hardly believe that the insignificant +gap that presented itself to us was, indeed, the termination of the +beautiful and noble stream, whose course we had thus successfully +followed. I can only compare the relief we experienced to that which +the seaman feels on weathering the rock upon which he expected his +vessel would have struck--to the calm which succeeds moments of +feverish anxiety, when the dread of danger is succeeded by the +certainty of escape. + +To myself personally, the discovery of this river was a circumstance of +a particularly gratifying nature, since it not only confirmed the +justness of my opinion as to the ultimate fate of the Morumbidgee, and +bore me out in the apparently rash and hasty step I had taken at the +depot, but assured me of ultimate success in the duty I had to perform. +We had got on the high road, as it were, either to the south coast, or +to some important outlet; and the appearance of the river itself was +such as to justify our most sanguine expectations. I could not doubt +its being the great channel of the streams from the S.E. angle of the +island. Mr. Hume had mentioned to me that he crossed three very +considerable streams, when employed with Mr. Hovell in 1823 in +penetrating towards Port Phillips, to which the names of the Goulburn, +the Hume, and the Ovens, had been given; and as I was 300 miles from +the track these gentlemen had pursued, I considered it more than +probable that those rivers must already have formed a junction above +me, more especially when I reflected that the convexity of the +mountains to the S.E. would necessarily direct the waters falling +inwards from them to a common centre. + +We entered the new river at right angles, and, as I have remarked, at +the point of junction the channel of the Morumbidgee had narrowed so as +to bear all the appearance of an ordinary creek. In breadth it did not +exceed fifty feet, and if, instead of having passed down it, I had been +making my way up the principal streams, I should little have dreamt +that so dark and gloomy an outlet concealed a river that would lead me +to the haunts of civilized man, and whose fountains rose amidst +snow-clad mountains. Such, however, is the characteristic of the +streams falling to the westward of the coast ranges. Descending into a +low and level interior, and depending on their immediate springs for +existence, they fall off, as they increase their distance from the base +of the mountains in which they rise, and in their lower branches give +little results of the promise they had previously made. + +The opinion I have expressed, and which is founded on my personal +experience, that the rivers crossed by Messrs. Hovell and Hume had +already united above me, was strengthened by the capacity of the stream +we had just discovered. It had a medium width of 350 feet, with a depth +of from twelve to twenty. Its reaches were from half to three-quarters +of a mile in length, and the views upon it were splendid. Of course, as +the Morumbidgee entered it from the north, its first reach must have +been E. and W., and it was so, as nearly as possible; but it took us a +little to the southward of the latter point, in a distance of about +eight miles that we pulled down it in the course of the afternoon. We +then landed and pitched our tents for the night. Its transparent waters +were running over a sandy bed at the rate of two-and-a-half knots an +hour, and its banks, although averaging eighteen feet in height, were +evidently subject to floods. + +ABSENCE OF NATIVES. + +We had not seen any natives since falling in with the last tribe on the +Morumbidgee. A cessation had, therefore, taken place in our +communication with them, in re-establishing which I anticipated +considerable difficulty. It appeared singular that we should not have +fallen in with any for several successive days, more especially at the +junction of the two rivers, as in similar situations they generally +have an establishment. In examining the country back from the stream, I +did not observe any large paths, but it was evident that fires had made +extensive ravages in the neighbourhood, so that the country was, +perhaps, only temporarily deserted. Macnamee, who had wandered a little +from the tents, declared that he had seen about a dozen natives round a +fire, from whom (if he really did see them) he very precipitately fled, +but I was inclined to discredit his story, because in our journey on +the following day, we did not see even a casual wanderer. + +WEATHER, TEMPERATURE, &C. + +The river maintained its character, and raised our hopes to the highest +pitch. Its breadth varied from 160 to 200 yards; and only in one place, +where a reef of iron-stone stretched nearly across from the left bank, +so as to contract the channel near the right and to form a considerable +rapid, was there any apparent obstruction to our navigation. I was +sorry, however, to remark that the breadth of alluvial soil between its +outer and inner banks was very inconsiderable, and that the upper +levels were poor and sandy. Blue-gum generally occupied the former, +while the usual productions of the plains still predominated upon the +latter, and showed that the distant interior had not yet undergone any +favourable change. We experienced strong breezes from the north, but +the range of the thermometer was high, and the weather rather +oppressive than otherwise. On the night of the 16th, we had a strong +wind from the N.W., but it moderated with day-light, and shifted to the +E.N.E., and the day was favourable and cool. Our progress was in every +way satisfactory, and if any change had taken place in the river, it +was that the banks had increased in height, in many places to thirty +feet, the soil being a red loam, and the surface much above the reach +of floods. The bank opposite to the one that was so elevated, was +proportionably low, and, in general, not only heavily timbered, but +covered with reeds, and backed by a chain of ponds at the base of the +outer embankment. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. + +About 4 p.m., some natives were observed running by the river side +behind us, but on our turning the boat's head towards the shore, they +ran away. It was evident that they had no idea what we were, and, from +their timidity, feeling assured that it would be impossible to bring +them to a parley, we continued onwards till our usual hour of stopping, +when we pitched our tents on the left bank for the night, it being the +one opposite to that on which the natives had appeared. We conjectured +that their curiosity would lead them to follow us, which they very +shortly did; for we had scarcely made ourselves comfortable when we +heard their wild notes through the woods as they advanced towards the +river; and their breaking into view with their spears and shields, and +painted and prepared as they were for battle, was extremely fine. They +stood threatening us, and making a great noise, for a considerable +time, but, finding that we took no notice of them, they, at length, +became quiet. I then walked to some little distance from the party, and +taking a branch in my hand, as a sign of peace, beckoned them to swim +to our side of the river, which, after some time, two or three of them +did. But they approached me with great caution, hesitating at every +step. They soon, however, gained confidence, and were ultimately joined +by all the males of their tribe. I gave the FIRST who swam the river a +tomahawk (making this a rule in order to encourage them) with which he +was highly delighted. I shortly afterwards placed them all in a row and +fired a gun before them: they were quite unprepared for such an +explosion, and after standing stupified and motionless for a moment or +two, they simultaneously took to their heels, to our great amusement. I +succeeded, however, in calling them back, and they regained their +confidence so much, that sixteen of them remained with us all night, +but the greater number retired at sunset. + +On the following morning, they accompanied us down the river, where we +fell in with their tribe, who were stationed on an elevated bank a +short distance below--to the number of eighty-three men, women, and +children. Their appearance was extremely picturesque and singular. They +wanted us to land, but time was too precious for such delays. Some of +the boldest of the natives swam round and round the boat so as to +impede the use of the oars, and the women on the bank evinced their +astonishment by mingled yells and cries. They entreated us, by signs, +to remain with them, but, as I foresaw a compliance on this occasion +would hereafter be attended with inconvenience, I thought it better to +proceed on our journey, and the natives soon ceased their +importunities, and, indeed, did not follow or molest us. + +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER BANKS. + +The river improved upon us at every mile. Its reaches were of noble +breadth, and splendid appearance. Its current was stronger, and it was +fed by numerous springs. Rocks, however, were more frequent in its bed, +and in two places almost formed a barrier across the channel, leaving +but a narrow space for the boats to go down. We passed several +elevations of from 70 to 90 feet in height, at the base of which the +stream swept along. The soil of these elevations was a mixture of clay +(marl) and sand, upon coarse sandstone. Their appearance and the manner +in which they had been acted upon by water, was singular, and afforded +a proof of the violence of the rains in this part of the interior. From +the highest of these, I observed that the country to the S.E. was +gently undulated, and so far changed in character from that through +which we had been travelling; still, however, it was covered with a low +scrub, and was barren and unpromising. + +About noon of the 18th, we surprised two women at the water-side, who +immediately retreated into the brush. Shortly after, four men showed +themselves, and followed us for a short distance, but hid themselves +upon our landing. The country still appeared undulated to the S.E.; the +soil was sandy, and cypresses more abundant than any other tree. We +passed several extensive sand-banks in the river, of unusual size and +solidity, an evident proof of the sandy nature of the interior +generally. The vast accumulations of sand at the junctions of every +creek were particularly remarkable. The timber on the alluvial flats +was not by any means so large as we had hitherto observed it; nor were +the flats themselves so extensive as they are on the Morumbidgee and +the Macquarie. Notwithstanding the aspect of the country which I have +described, no POSITIVE change had as yet taken place in the general +feature of the interior. The river continued to flow in a direction +somewhat to the northward of west, through a country that underwent no +perceptible alteration. Its waters, confined to their immediate bed, +swept along considerably below the level of its inner banks; and the +spaces between them and the outer ones, though generally covered with +reeds, seemed not recently to have been flooded; while on the other +hand, they had, in many places, from successive depositions, risen to a +height far above the reach of inundation. Still, however, the more +remote interior maintained its sandy and sterile character, and +stretched away, in alternate plain and wood, to a distance far beyond +the limits of our examination. + +About the 21st, a very evident change took place in it. The banks of +the river suddenly acquired a perpendicular and water-worn appearance. +Their summits were perfectly level, and no longer confined by a +secondary embankment, but preserved an uniform equality of surface back +from the stream. These banks, although so abrupt, were not so high as +the upper levels, or secondary embankments. They indicated a deep +alluvial deposit, and yet, being high above the reach of any ordinary +flood, were covered with grass, under an open box forest, into which a +moderately dense scrub occasionally penetrated. We had fallen into a +concavity similar to those of the marshes, but successive depositions +had almost filled it, and no longer subject to inundation, it had lost +all the character of those flooded tracts. The kind of country I have +been describing, lay rather to the right than to the left of the river +at this place, the latter continuing low and swampy, as if the country +to the south of the river were still subject to inundation. As the +expedition proceeded, the left bank gradually assumed the appearance of +the right; both looked water-worn and perpendicular, and though not +more than from nine to ten feet in height, their summits were perfectly +level in receding, and bore diminutive box-timber, with +widely-scattered vegetation. Not a single elevation had, as yet, broken +the dark and gloomy monotony of the interior; but as our observations +were limited to a short distance from the river, our surmises on the +nature of the distant country were necessarily involved in some +uncertainty. + +THREATENED ATTACK--AMICABLE CONFERENCE. + +On the 19th, as we were about to conclude our journey for the day, we +saw a large body of natives before us. On approaching them, they showed +every disposition for combat, and ran along the bank with spears in +rests, as if only waiting for an opportunity to throw them at us. They +were upon the right, and as the river was broad enough to enable me to +steer wide of them, I did not care much for their threats; but upon +another party appearing upon the left bank, I thought it high time to +disperse one or the other of them, as the channel was not wide enough +to enable me to keep clear of danger, if assailed by both, as I might +be while keeping amid the channel. I found, however, that they did not +know how to use the advantage they possessed, as the two divisions +formed a junction; those on the left swimming over to the stronger body +upon the right bank. This, fortunately, prevented the necessity of any +hostile measure on my part, and we were suffered to proceed unmolested, +for the present. The whole then followed us without any symptom of +fear, but making a dreadful shouting, and beating their spears and +shields together, by way of intimidation. It is but justice to my men +to say that in this critical situation they evinced the greatest +coolness, though it was impossible for any one to witness such a scene +with indifference. As I did not intend to fatigue the men by continuing +to pull farther than we were in the habit of doing, we landed at our +usual time on the left bank, and while the people were pitching the +tents, I walked down the bank with M'Leay, to treat with these +desperadoes in the best way we could, across the water, a measure to +which my men showed great reluctance, declaring that if during our +absence the natives approached them, they would undoubtedly fire upon +them. I assured them it was not my intention to go out of their sight. +We took our guns with us, but determined not to use them until the last +extremity, both from a reluctance to shed blood and with a view to our +future security. I held a long pantomimical dialogue with them, across +the water, and held out the olive branch in token of amity. They at +length laid aside their spears, and a long consultation took place +among them, which ended in two or three wading into the river, +contrary, as it appeared, to the earnest remonstrances of the majority, +who, finding that their entreaties had no effect, wept aloud, and +followed them with a determination, I am sure, of sharing their fate, +whatever it might have been. As soon as they landed, M'Leay and I +retired to a little distance from the bank, and sat down; that being +the usual way among the natives of the interior, to invite to an +interview. When they saw us act thus, they approached, and sat down by +us, but without looking up, from a kind of diffidence peculiar to them, +and which exists even among the nearest relatives, as I have already +had occasion to observe. As they gained confidence, however, they +showed an excessive curiosity, and stared at us in the most earnest +manner. We now led them to the camp, and I gave, as was my custom, the +first who had approached, a tomahawk; and to the others, some pieces of +iron hoop. Those who had crossed the river amounted to about +thirty-five in number. At sunset, the majority of them left us; but +three old men remained at the fire-side all night. I observed that few +of them had either lost their front teeth or lacerated their bodies, as +the more westerly tribes do. The most loathsome diseases prevailed +among them. Several were disabled by leprosy, or some similar disorder, +and two or three had entirely lost their sight. They are, undoubtedly, +a brave and a confiding people, and are by no means wanting in natural +affection. In person, they resemble the mountain tribes. They had the +thick lip, the sunken eye, the extended nostril, and long beards, and +both smooth and curly hair are common among them. Their lower +extremities appear to bear no proportion to their bust in point of +muscular strength; but the facility with which they ascend trees of the +largest growth, and the activity with which they move upon all +occasions, together with their singularly erect stature, argue that +such appearance is entirely deceptive. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. + +The old men slept very soundly by the fire, and were the last to get up +in the morning. M'Leay's extreme good humour had made a most favourable +impression upon them, and I can picture him, even now, joining in their +wild song. Whether it was from his entering so readily into their +mirth, or from anything peculiar that struck them, the impression upon +the whole of us was, that they took him to have been originally a +black, in consequence of which they gave him the name of Rundi. Certain +it is, they pressed him to show his side, and asked if he had not +received a wound there--evidently as if the original Rundi had met with +a violent death from a spear-wound in that place. The whole tribe, +amounting in number to upwards of 150, assembled to see us take our +departure. Four of them accompanied us, among whom there was one +remarkable for personal strength and stature.--The 21st passed without +our falling in with any new tribe, and the night of the 22nd, saw us +still wandering in that lonely desert together. There was something +unusual in our going through such an extent of country without meeting +another tribe, but our companions appeared to be perfectly aware of the +absence of inhabitants, as they never left our side. + +Although the banks of the river had been of general equality of height, +sandy elevations still occasionally formed a part of them, and their +summits were considerably higher than the alluvial flats. + +RAPID IN THE RIVER--DANGEROUS DESCENT OF THE BOATS. + +It was upon the crest of one of these steep and lofty banks, that on +the morning of the 22nd, the natives who were a-head of the boat, +suddenly stopped to watch our proceedings down a foaming rapid that ran +beneath. We were not aware of the danger to which we were approaching, +until we turned an angle of the river, and found ourselves too near to +retreat. In such a moment, without knowing what was before them, the +coolness of the men was strikingly exemplified. No one even spoke after +they became aware that silence was necessary. The natives (probably +anticipating misfortune) stood leaning upon their spears upon the lofty +bank above us. Desiring the men not to move from their seats, I stood +up to survey the channel, and to steer the boat to that part of it +which was least impeded by rocks. I was obliged to decide upon a hasty +survey, as we were already at the head of the rapid. It appeared to me +that there were two passages, the one down the centre of the river, the +other immediately under its right bank. A considerable rock stood +directly in own way to the latter, so that I had no alternative but to +descend the former. About forty yards below the rock, I noticed that a +line of rocks occupied the space between the two channels, whilst a +reef, projecting from the left bank, made the central passage +distinctly visible, and the rapidity of the current proportionably +great. I entertained hopes that the passage was clear, and that we +should shoot down it without interruption; but in this I was +disappointed. The boat struck with the fore-part of her keel on a +sunken rock, and, swinging round as it were on a pivot, presented her +bow to the rapid, while the skiff floated away into the strength of it. +We had every reason to anticipate the loss of our whale-boat, whose +build was so light, that had her side struck the rock, instead of her +keel, she would have been laid open from stem to stern. As it was, +however, she remained fixed in her position, and it only remained for +us to get her off the best way we could. I saw that this could only be +done by sending two of the men with a rope to the upper rock, and +getting the boat, by that means, into the still water, between that and +the lower one. We should then have time to examine the channels, and to +decide as to that down which it would be safest to proceed. My only +fear was, that the loss of the weight of the two men would lighten the +boat so much, that she would be precipitated down the rapid without my +having any command over her; but it happened otherwise. We succeeded in +getting her into the still water, and ultimately took her down the +channel under the right bank, without her sustaining any injury. A few +miles below this rapid the river took a singular bend, and we found, +after pulling several miles, that we were within a stone's throw of a +part of the stream we had already sailed down. + +The four natives joined us in the camp, and assisted the men at their +various occupations. The consequence was, that they were treated with +more than ordinary kindness; and Fraser, for his part, in order to +gratify these favoured guests, made great havoc among the feathered +race. He returned after a short ramble with a variety of game, among +which were a crow, a kite, and a laughing jackass (alcedo gigantea,) a +species of king's-fisher, a singular bird, found in every part of +Australia. Its cry, which resembles a chorus of wild spirits, is apt to +startle the traveller who may be in jeopardy, as if laughing and +mocking at his misfortune. It is a harmless bird, and I seldom allowed +them to be destroyed, as they were sure to rouse us with the earliest +dawn. To this list of Fraser's spoils, a duck and a tough old cockatoo, +must be added. The whole of these our friends threw on the fire without +the delay of plucking, and snatched them from that consuming element +ere they were well singed, and devoured them with uncommon relish. + +DESERTED NATIVE VILLAGE. + +We pitched our tents upon a flat of good and tenacious soil. A brush, +in which there was a new species of melaleuca, backed it, in the +thickest part of which we found a deserted native village. The spot was +evidently chosen for shelter. The huts were large and long, all facing +the same point of the compass, and in every way resembling the huts +occupied by the natives of the Darling. Large flocks of whistling +ducks, and other wild fowl, flew over our heads to the N.W., as if +making their way to some large or favourite waters. My observations +placed us in lat. 34 degrees 8 minutes 15 seconds south, and in east +long. 141 degrees 9 minutes 42 seconds or nearly so; and I was at a +loss to conceive what direction the river would ultimately take. We +were considerably to the N.W. of the point at which we had entered it, +and in referring to the chart, it appeared, that if the Darling had +kept a S.W. course from where the last expedition left its banks, we +ought ere this to have struck upon it, or have arrived at its junction +with the stream on which we were journeying. + +CONVERSING BY SIGNS. + +The natives, in attempting to answer my interrogatories, only perplexed +me more and more. They evidently wished to explain something, by +placing a number of sticks across each other as a kind of diagram of +the country. It was, however, impossible to arrive at their meaning. +They undoubtedly pointed to the westward, or rather to the south of +that point, as the future course of the river; but there was something +more that they were anxious to explain, which I could not comprehend. +The poor fellows seemed quite disappointed, and endeavoured to beat it +into Fraser's head with as little success. I then desired Macnamee to +get up into a tree. From the upper branches of it he said he could see +hills; but his account of their appearance was such that I doubted his +story: nevertheless it might have been correct. He certainly called our +attention to a large fire, as if the country to the N.W. was in flames, +so that it appeared we were approaching the haunts of the natives at +last. + +It happened that Fraser and Harris were for guard, and they sat up +laughing and talking with the natives long after we retired to rest. +Fraser, to beguile the hours, proposed shaving his sable companions, +and performed that operation with admirable dexterity upon their chief, +to his great delight. I got up at an early hour, and found to my +surprise that the whole of them had deserted us. Harris told me they +had risen from the fire about an hour before, and had crossed the +river. I was a little angry, but supposed they were aware that we were +near some tribe, and had gone on a-head to prepare and collect them. + +LARGE CONCOURSE OF NATIVES--THEIR HOSTILE DEMEANOUR. + +After breakfast, we proceeded onwards as usual. The river had increased +so much in width that, the wind being fair, I hoisted sail for the +first time, to save the strength of my men as much as possible. Our +progress was consequently rapid. We passed through a country that, from +the nature of its soil and other circumstances, appeared to be +intersected by creeks and lagoons. Vast flights of wild fowl passed +over us, but always at a considerable elevation, while, on the other +hand, the paucity of ducks on the river excited our surprise. Latterly, +the trees upon the river, and in its neighbourhood, had been a tortuous +kind of box. The flooded-gum grew in groups on the spaces subject to +inundation, but not on the levels above the influence of any ordinary +rise of the stream. Still they were much smaller than they were +observed to be in the higher branches of the river. We had proceeded +about nine miles, when we were surprised by the appearance in view, at +the termination of a reach, of a long line of magnificent trees of +green and dense foliage. As we sailed down the reach, we observed a +vast concourse of natives under them, and, on a nearer approach, we not +only heard their war-song, if it might so be called, but remarked that +they were painted and armed, as they generally are, prior to their +engaging in deadly conflict. Notwithstanding these outward signs of +hostility, fancying that our four friends were with them, I continued +to steer directly in for the bank on which they were collected. I +found, however, when it was almost too late to turn into the succeeding +reach to our left, that an attempt to land would only be attended with +loss of life. The natives seemed determined to resist it. We approached +so near that they held their spears quivering in their grasp ready to +hurl. They were painted in various ways. Some who had marked their +ribs, and thighs, and faces with a white pigment, looked like +skeletons, others were daubed over with red and yellow ochre, and their +bodies shone with the grease with which they had besmeared themselves. +A dead silence prevailed among the front ranks, but those in the back +ground, as well as the women, who carried supplies of darts, and who +appeared to have had a bucket of whitewash capsized over their heads, +were extremely clamorous. As I did not wish a conflict with these +people, I lowered my sail, and putting the helm to starboard, we passed +quietly down the stream in mid channel. Disappointed in their +anticipations, the natives ran along the bank of the river, +endeavouring to secure an aim at us; but, unable to throw with +certainty, in consequence of the onward motion of the boat, they flung +themselves into the most extravagant attitudes, and worked themselves +into a state of frenzy by loud and vehement shouting. + +PREPARATIONS FOR CONFLICT--UNEXPECTED INTERFERENCE. + +It was with considerable apprehension that I observed the river to be +shoaling fast, more especially as a huge sand-bank, a little below us, +and on the same side on which the natives had gathered, projected +nearly a third-way across the channel. To this sand-bank they ran with +tumultuous uproar, and covered it over in a dense mass. Some of the +chiefs advanced to the water to be nearer their victims, and turned +from time to time to direct their followers. With every pacific +disposition, and an extreme reluctance to take away life, I foresaw +that it would be impossible any longer to avoid an engagement, yet with +such fearful numbers against us, I was doubtful of the result. The +spectacle we had witnessed had been one of the most appalling kind, and +sufficient to shake the firmness of most men; but at that trying moment +my little band preserved their temper coolness, and if any thing could +be gleaned from their countenances, it was that they had determined on +an obstinate resistance. I now explained to them that their only chance +of escape depended, or would depend, on their firmness. I desired that +after the first volley had been fired, M'Leay and three of the men, +would attend to the defence of the boat with bayonets only, while I, +Hopkinson, and Harris, would keep up the fire as being more used to it. +I ordered, however, that no shot was to be fired until after I had +discharged both my barrels. I then delivered their arms to the men, +which had as yet been kept in the place appropriated for them, and at +the same time some rounds of loose cartridge. The men assured me they +would follow my instructions, and thus prepared, having already lowered +the sail, we drifted onwards with the current. As we neared the +sand-bank, I stood up and made signs to the natives to desist; but +without success. I took up my gun, therefore, and cocking it, had +already brought it down to a level. A few seconds more would have +closed the life of the nearest of the savages. The distance was too +trifling for me to doubt the fatal effects of the discharge; for I was +determined to take deadly aim, in hopes that the fall of one man might +save the lives of many. But at the very moment, when my hand was on the +trigger, and my eye was along the barrel, my purpose was checked by +M'Leay, who called to me that another party of blacks had made their +appearance upon the left bank of the river. Turning round, I observed +four men at the top of their speed. The foremost of them as soon as he +got a-head of the boat, threw himself from a considerable height into +the water. He struggled across the channel to the sand-bank, and in an +incredibly short space of time stood in front of the savage, against +whom my aim had been directed. Seizing him by the throat, he pushed +backwards, and forcing all who were in the water upon the bank, he trod +its margin with a vehemence and an agitation that were exceedingly +striking. At one moment pointing to the boat, at another shaking his +clenched hand in the faces of the most forward, and stamping with +passion on the sand; his voice, that was at first distinct and clear, +was lost in hoarse murmurs. Two of the four natives remained on the +left bank of the river, but the third followed his leader, (who proved +to be the remarkable savage I have previously noticed) to the scene of +action. The reader will imagine our feelings on this occasion: it is +impossible to describe them. We were so wholly lost in interest at the +scene that was passing, that the boat was allowed to drift at pleasure. +For my own part I was overwhelmed with astonishment, and in truth +stunned and confused; so singular, so unexpected, and so strikingly +providential, had been our escape. + +JUNCTION OF ANOTHER STREAM--PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE FROM DANGER. + +We were again roused to action by the boat suddenly striking upon a +shoal, which reached from one side of the river to the other. To jump +out and push her into deeper water was but the work of a moment with +the men, and it was just as she floated again that our attention was +withdrawn to a new and beautiful stream, coming apparently from the +north. The great body of the natives having posted themselves on the +narrow tongue of land formed by the two rivers, the bold savage who had +so unhesitatingly interfered on our account, was still in hot dispute +with them, and I really feared his generous warmth would have brought +down upon him the vengeance of the tribes. I hesitated, therefore, +whether or not to go to his assistance. It appeared, however, both to +M'Leay and myself, that the tone of the natives had moderated, and the +old and young men having listened to the remonstrances of our friend, +the middle-aged warriors were alone holding out against him. A party of +about seventy blacks were upon the right bank of the newly discovered +river, and I thought that by landing among them, we should make a +diversion in favour of our late guest; and in this I succeeded. If even +they had still meditated violence, they would have to swim a good broad +junction, and that, probably, would cool them, or we at least should +have the advantage of position. I therefore, ran the boat ashore, and +landed with M'Leay amidst the smaller party of natives, wholly unarmed, +and having directed the men to keep at a little distance from the bank. +Fortunately, what I anticipated was brought about by the stratagem to +which I had had recourse. The blacks no sooner observed that we had +landed, than curiosity took place of anger. All wrangling ceased, and +they came swimming over to us like a parcel of seals. Thus, in less +than a quarter of an hour from the moment when it appeared that all +human intervention was at on end, and we were on the point of +commencing a bloody fray, which, independently of its own disastrous +consequences, would have blasted the success of the expedition, we were +peacefully surrounded by the hundreds who had so lately threatened us +with destruction; nor was it until after we had returned to the boat, +and had surveyed the multitude upon the sloping bank above us, that we +became fully aware of the extent of our danger, and of the almost +miraculous intervention of Providence in our favour. There could not +have been less than six hundred natives upon that blackened sward. But +this was not the only occasion upon which the merciful superintendance +of that Providence to which we had humbly committed ourselves, was +strikingly manifested. If these pages fail to convey entertainment or +information, sufficient may at least be gleaned from them to furnish +matter for serious reflection; but to those who have been placed in +situations of danger where human ingenuity availed them not, and where +human foresight was baffled, I feel persuaded that these remarks are +unnecessary. + +NEW RIVER, SUPPOSED TO BE THE DARLING. + +It was my first care to call for our friend, and to express to him, as +well as I could, how much we stood indebted to him, at the same time +that I made him a suitable present; but to the chiefs of the tribes, I +positively refused all gifts, notwithstanding their earnest +solicitations. We next prepared to examine the new river, and turning +the boat's head towards it, endeavoured to pull up the stream. Our +larboard oars touched the right bank, and the current was too strong +for us to conquer it with a pair only; we were, therefore, obliged to +put a second upon her, a movement that excited the astonishment and +admiration of the natives. One old woman seemed in absolute ecstasy, to +whom M'Leay threw an old tin kettle, in recompense for the amusement +she afforded us. + +HOIST THE UNION JACK. + +As soon as we got above the entrance of the new river, we found easier +pulling, and proceeded up it for some miles, accompanied by the once +more noisy multitude. The river preserved a breadth of one hundred +yards, and a depth of rather more than twelve feet. Its banks were +sloping and grassy, and were overhung by trees of magnificent size. +Indeed, its appearance was so different from the water-worn banks of +the sister stream, that the men exclaimed, on entering it, that we had +got into an English river. Its appearance certainly almost justified +the expression; for the greenness of its banks was as new to us as the +size of its timber. Its waters, though sweet, were turbid, and had a +taste of vegetable decay, as well as a slight tinge of green. Our +progress was watched by the natives with evident anxiety. They kept +abreast of us, and talked incessantly. At length, however, our course +was checked by a net that stretched right across the stream. I say +checked, because it would have been unfair to have passed over it with +the chance of disappointing the numbers who apparently depended on it +for subsistence that day. The moment was one of intense interest to me. +As the men rested upon their oars, awaiting my further orders, a crowd +of thoughts rushed upon me. The various conjectures I had formed of the +course and importance of the Darling passed across my mind. Were they +indeed realized? An irresistible conviction impressed me that we were +now sailing on the bosom of that very stream from whose banks I had +been twice forced to retire. I directed the Union Jack to be hoisted, +and giving way to our satisfaction, we all stood up in the boat, and +gave three distinct cheers. It was an English feeling, an ebullition, +an overflow, which I am ready to admit that our circumstances and +situation will alone excuse. The eye of every native had been fixed +upon that noble flag, at all times a beautiful object, and to them a +novel one, as it waved over us in the heart of a desert. They had, +until that moment been particularly loquacious, but the sight of that +flag and the sound of our voices hushed the tumult, and while they were +still lost in astonishment, the boat's head was speedily turned, the +sail was sheeted home, both wind and current were in our favour, and we +vanished from them with a rapidity that surprised even ourselves, and +which precluded every hope of the most adventurous among them to keep +up with us. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +Character of the country--Damage of provisions--Adroitness of the +natives in catching fish--The skiff broken up--Stream from the +North-East supposed to be the Darling--Change of country in descending +the river--Intercourse with the natives--Prevalence of loathsome +diseases among them--Apparent populousness of the country--Junction of +several small streams--The Rufus, the Lindesay, &c.--Rainy and +tempestuous weather--Curious appearance of the banks--Troublesomeness +of the natives--Inhospitable and desolate aspect of the +country--Condition of the men--Change in the geological character of +the country--The river passes through a valley among hills. + + +Arrived once more at the junction of the two rivers, and unmolested in +our occupations, we had leisure to examine it more closely. Not having +as yet given a name to our first discovery, when we re-entered its +capacious channel on this occasion, I laid it down as the Murray River, +in compliment to the distinguished officer, Sir George Murray, who then +presided over the colonial department, not only in compliance with the +known wishes of his Excellency General Darling, but also in accordance +with my own feelings as a soldier. + +The new river, whether the Darling or an additional discovery, meets +its more southern rival on a N. by E. course; the latter, running +W.S.W. at the confluence, the angle formed by the two rivers, is, +therefore, so small that both may be considered to preserve their +proper course, and neither can be said to be tributary to the other. At +their junction, the Murray spreads its waters over the broad and sandy +shore, upon which our boat grounded, while its more impetuous neighbour +flows through the deep but narrow channel it has worked out for itself, +under the right bank. The strength of their currents must have been +nearly equal, since there was as distinct a line between their +respective waters, to a considerable distance below the junction, as if +a thin board alone separated them. The one half the channel contained +the turbid waters of the northern stream, the other still preserved +their original transparency. + +INUNDATED AND ALLUVIAL COUNTRY. + +The banks of the Murray did not undergo any immediate change as we +proceeded. We noticed that the country had, at some time, been subject +to extensive inundation, and was, beyond doubt, of alluvial formation. +We passed the mouths of several large creeks that came from the north +and N.W., and the country in those directions seemed to be much +intersected by water-courses; while to the south it was extremely low. +Having descended several minor rapids, I greatly regretted that we had +no barometer to ascertain the actual dip of the interior. I computed, +however, that we were not more than from eighty to ninety feet above +the level of the sea. We found the channel of the Murray much +encumbered with timber, and noticed some banks of sand that were of +unusual size, and equalled the largest accumulations of it on the sea +shore, both in extent and solidity. + +STATE OF PROVISIONS. + +We would gladly have fired into the flights of wild fowl that winged +their way over us, for we, about this time, began to feel the +consequences of the disaster that befell us in the Morumbidgee. The +fresh water having got mixed with the brine in the meat casks, the +greater part of our salt provisions had got spoiled, so that we were +obliged to be extremely economical in the expenditure of what remained, +as we knew not to what straits we might be driven. It will naturally be +asked why we did not procure fish? The answer is easy. The men had +caught many in the Morumbidgee, and on our first navigation of the +Murray, but whether it was that they had disagreed with them, or that +their appetites were palled, or that they were too fatigued after the +labour of the day to set the lines, they did not appear to care about +them. The only fish we could take was the common cod or perch; and, +without sauce or butter, it is insipid enough. We occasionally +exchanged pieces of iron-hoop for two other kinds of fish, the one a +bream, the other a barbel, with the natives, and the eagerness with +which they met our advances to barter, is a strong proof of their +natural disposition towards this first step in civilization. + +DEXTERITY OF NATIVES IN FISHING. + +As they threw off all reserve when accompanying us as ambassadors, we +had frequent opportunities of observing their habits. The facility, for +instance, with which they procured fish was really surprising. They +would slip, feet foremost, into the water as they walked along the bank +of the river, as if they had accidentally done so, but, in reality, to +avoid the splash they would necessarily have made if they had plunged +in head foremost. As surely as they then disappeared under the surface +of the water, so surely would they re-appear with a fish writhing upon +the point of their short spears. The very otter scarcely exceeds them +in power over the finny race, and so true is the aim of these savages, +even under water, that all the fish we procured from them were pierced +either close behind the lateral fin, or in the very centre of the head, +It is certain, from their indifference to them, that the natives seldom +eat fish when they can get anything else. Indeed, they seemed more +anxious to take the small turtle, which, sunning themselves on the +trunks or logs of trees over the water, were, nevertheless, extremely +on their guard. A gentle splash alone indicated to us that any thing +had dropped into the water, but the quick eyes and ears of our guides +immediately detected what had occasioned it, and they seldom failed to +take the poor little animal that had so vainly trusted to its own +watchfulness for security. It appeared that the natives did not, from +choice, frequent the Murray; it was evident, therefore, that they had +other and better means of subsistence away from it, and it struck me, +at the time, that the river we had just passed watered a better country +than any through which the Murray had been found to flow. + +BREAK UP THE SKIFF. + +We encamped rather earlier than usual upon the left bank of the river, +near a broad creek; for as the skiff had been a great drag upon us, I +determined on breaking it up, since there was no probability that we +should ever require the still, which alone remained in her. We, +consequently, burnt the former, to secure her nails and iron work, and +I set Clayton about cutting the copper of the latter into the shape of +crescents, in order to present them to the natives. Some large huts +were observed on the side of the creek, a little above the camp, the +whole of which faced the N.E. This arrangement had previously been +noticed by us, so that I was led to infer that the severest weather +comes from the opposite quarter in this part of the interior. I had not +the least idea, at the time, however, that we should, ere we reached +the termination of our journey, experience the effects of the S.W. +winds. + +We must have fallen considerably during the day from the level of our +morning's position, for we passed down many reaches where the decline +of country gave an increased velocity to the current of the river. + +I had feared, not only in consequence of the unceremonious manner in +which we had left them, but, because I had, in some measure, rejected +the advances of their chiefs, that none of the natives would follow us, +and I regretted the circumstance on account of my men, as well as the +trouble we should necessarily have in conciliating the next tribe. We +had not, however, been long encamped, when seven blacks joined us. I +think they would have passed on if we had not called to them. As it +was, they remained with us but for a short time. We treated them very +kindly, but they were evidently under constraint, and were, no doubt, +glad when they found we did not object to their departing. + +NEW RIVER IDENTIFIED WITH THE DARLING. + +I have stated, that I felt satisfied in my own mind, that the beautiful +stream we had passed was no other than the river Darling of my former +journey. The bare assertion, however, is not sufficient to satisfy the +mind of the reader, upon a point of such importance, more especially +when it is considered how remarkable a change the Darling must have +undergone, if this were indeed a continuation of it. I am free to +confess that it required an effort to convince myself, but after due +consideration, I see no reason to alter the opinion I formed at a +moment of peculiar embarrassment. Yet it by no means follows that I +shall convince others, although I am myself convinced. The question is +one of curious speculation, and the consideration of it will lead us to +an interesting conjecture, as to the probable nature of the distant +interior, between the two points. It will be remembered that I was +obliged to relinquish my pursuit of the Darling, in east long. 144 +degrees 48 minutes 30 seconds in lat. 30 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds +south. I place the junction of the Murray and the new river, in long. +140 degrees 56 minutes east, and in south lat. 34 degrees 3 minutes. I +must remark, however, that the lunars I took on this last occasion, +were not satisfactory, and that there is, probably, an error, though +not a material one, in the calculation. Before I measure the distance +between the above points, or make any remarks on the results of my own +observations, I would impress the following facts upon the reader's +mind. + +I found and left the Darling in a complete state of exhaustion. As a +river it had ceased to flow; the only supply it received was from brine +springs, which, without imparting a current, rendered its waters saline +and useless, and lastly, the fish in it were different from those +inhabiting the other known rivers of the interior. It is true, I did +not procure a perfect specimen of one, but we satisfactorily +ascertained that they were different, inasmuch as they had large and +strong scales, whereas the fish in the western waters have smooth +skins. On the other hand, the waters of the new river were sweet, +although turbid; it had a rapid current in it; and its fish were of the +ordinary kind. In the above particulars, therefore, they differed much +as they could well differ. Yet there were some strong points of +resemblance in the appearance of the rivers themselves, which were more +evident to me than I can hope to make them to the reader. Both were +shaded by trees of the same magnificent dimensions; and the same kind +of huts were erected on the banks of each, inhabited by the same +description, or race, of people, whose weapons, whose implements, and +whose nets corresponded in most respects. + +We will now cast our eyes over the chart: and see if the position of +the two rivers upon it, will at all bear out our conclusion that they +are one and the same; and whether the line that would join them is the +one that the Darling would naturally take, in reference to its previous +course.--We shall find that the two points under discussion, bear +almost N.E. and S.W. of each other respectively, the direct line in +which the Darling had been ascertained to flow, as far as it had been +found practicable to trace it. I have already remarked that the +fracture of my barometer prevented my ascertaining the height of the +bed of the Darling above the sea, during the first expedition. A +similar accident caused me equal disappointment on the second; because +one of the most important points upon which I was engaged was to +ascertain the dip of the interior. I believe I stated, in its proper +place, that I did not think the Darling could possibly be 200 feet +above the sea, and as far as my observations bear me out, I should +estimate the bed of the Murray, at its junction with the new river, to +be within 100. It would appear that there is a distance of 300 miles +between the Murray River at this place, and the Darling; a space amply +sufficient for the intervention of a hilly country. No one could have +been more attentive to the features of the interior than I was; nor +could any one have dwelt upon their peculiarities with more earnest +attention. It were hazardous to build up any new theory, however +ingenious it may appear. The conclusions into which I have been led, +are founded on actual observation of the country through which I +passed, and extend not beyond my actual range of vision; unless my +assuming that the decline of the interior to the south has been +satisfactorily established, be considered premature. If not, the +features of the country certainly justify my deductions; and it will be +found that they were still more confirmed by subsequent +observation.--That the Darling should have lost its current in its +upper branches, is not surprising, when the level nature of the country +into which it falls is taken into consideration; neither does it +surprise me that it should be stationary in one place, and flowing in +another; since, if, as in the present instance, there is a great extent +of country between the two points, which may perhaps be of considerable +elevation, the river may receive tributaries, whose waters will of +course follow the general decline of the country. I take it to be so in +the case before us; and am of opinion, that the lower branches of the +Darling are not at all dependent on its sources for a current, or for a +supply of water. I have somewhere observed that it appeared to me the +depressed interior over which I had already travelled, was of +comparatively recent formation. And, by whatever convulsion or change +so extensive a tract became exposed, I cannot but infer, that the +Darling is the main channel by which the last waters of the ocean were +drained off. The bottom of the estuary, for it cannot be called a +valley, being then left exposed, it consequently remains the natural +and proper reservoir for the streams from the eastward, or those +falling easterly from the westward, if any such remain to be discovered. + +From the junction of the Morumbidgee to the junction of the new river, +the Murray had held a W.N.W. course. From the last junction it changed +its direction to the S.W., and increased considerably in size. The +country to the south was certainly lower than that to the north; for, +although both banks had features common to each other, the flooded +spaces were much more extensive to our left than to our right. + +CHANGE OF COUNTRY. + +We started on the morning of the 24th, all the lighter from having got +rid of the skiff, and certainly freer to act in case the natives should +evince a hostile disposition towards us. As we proceeded down the +river, the appearances around us more and more plainly indicated a +change of country. Cypresses were observed in the distance, and the +ground on which they stood was higher than that near the stream; as if +it had again acquired its secondary banks. At length these heights +approached the river so nearly as to form a part of its banks, and to +separate one alluvial flat from another. Their summits were perfectly +level; their soil was a red sandy loam; and their productions, for the +most part, salsolae and misembrianthemum. From this it would appear +that we had passed through a second region, that must at some time have +been under water, and that still retained all the marks of a country +partially subject to flood. + +INTRODUCED FROM TRIBE TO TRIBE. + +We had, as I have said, passed over this region, and were again hemmed +in by those sandy and sterile tracts upon which the beasts of the field +could obtain neither food nor water. We overtook the seven deputies +some time after we started, but soon lost sight of them again, as they +cut off the sweeps of the river, and shortened their journey as much as +possible. At 2 p.m. we found them with a tribe of their countrymen, +about eighty in number. We pulled in to the bank and remained with them +for a short time, and I now determined to convince the blacks who had +preceded us, that I had not been actuated by any other desire than that +of showing to them that we were not to be intimidated by numbers, when +I refused to make them any presents after their show of hostility. I +now, therefore, gave them several implements, sundry pieces of iron +hoop, and an ornamental badge of copper. When we left the tribe, we +were regularly handed over to their care. The seven men who had +introduced us, went back at the same time that we continued our +journey, and two more belonging to the new tribe, went on a-head to +prepare the the neighbouring tribe to receive us; nor did we see +anything more of them during the day. + +We encamped on the left bank of the river, amidst a polygonum scrub, in +which we found a number of the crested pigeon. It was late before the +tents were pitched: as Fraser seldom assisted in that operation, but +strolled out with his gun after he had kindled a fire, so on this +occasion he wandered from the camp in search of novelty, and on his +return, informed me that there was a considerable ridge to the south of +a plain upon which he had been. + +I had myself walked out to the S.E., and on ascending a few feet above +the level of the camp, got into a scrub. I was walking quietly through +it, when I heard a rustling noise, and looking in the direction whence +it proceeded, I observed a small kangaroo approaching me. Having a +stick in my hand, and being aware that I was in one of their paths, I +stood still until the animal came close up to me, without apparently +being aware of my presence. I then gave it a blow an the side of the +head, and made it reel to one side, but the stick, being rotten, broke +with the force of the blow, and thus disappointed me of a good meal. + +During my absence from the camp, a flight of cockatoos, new to us, but +similar to one that Mr. Hume shot on the Darling, passed over the +tents, and I found M'Leay, with his usual anxiety, trying to get a shot +at them. They had, he told me, descended to water, but they had chosen +a spot so difficult of approach without discovery, that he had found it +impossible to get within shot of them. + +RIDGE TO THE SOUTH-EAST. + +There was a considerable rapid just below our position, which I +examined before dark. Not seeing any danger, I requested M'Leay to +proceed down it in the boat as soon as he had breakfasted, and to wait +for me at the bottom of it. As I wished to ascertain the nature and +height of the elevations which Fraser had magnified into something +grand, Fraser and I proceeded to the centre of a large plain, +stretching from the left bank of the river to the southward. It was +bounded to the S.E. by a low scrub; to the S. a thickly wooded ridge +appeared to break the level of the country. It extended from east to +west for four or five miles, and then gradually declined. At its +termination, the country seemed to dip, and a dense fog, as from an +extensive sheet of water, enveloped the landscape. The plain was +crowded with cockatoos, that were making their morning's repast on the +berries of the salsolae and rhagodia, with which it was covered. + +DISTANT RANGES SEEN. + +M'Leay had got safely down the rapid, so that as soon as I joined him, +we proceeded on our journey. We fell in with the tribe we had already +seen, but increased in numbers, and we had hardly left them, when we +found another tribe most anxiously awaiting our arrival. We stayed with +the last for some time, and exhausted our vocabulary, and exerted our +ingenuity to gain some information from them. I directed Hopkinson to +pile up some clay, to enquire if we were near any hills, when two or +three of the blacks caught the meaning, and pointed to the N.W. +Mulholland climbed up a tree in consequence of this, and reported to me +that he saw lofty ranges in the direction to which the blacks pointed; +that there were two apparently, the one stretching to the N.E., the +other to the N.W. He stated their distance to be about forty miles, and +added that he thought he could observe other ranges, through the gap, +which, according to the alignment of two sticks, that I placed +according to Mulholland's directions, bore S. 130 W. + +We had landed upon the right bank of the river, and there was a large +lagoon immediately behind us. The current in the river did not run so +strong as it had been. Its banks were much lower, and were generally +covered with reeds. The spaces subject to flood were broader than +heretofore, and the country for more than twenty miles was extremely +depressed. Our view from the highest ground near the camp was very +confined, since we were apparently in a hollow, and were unable to +obtain a second sight of the ranges we had noticed. + +PASS THREE CREEKS. + +Three creeks fell into the Murray hereabouts. One from the north, +another from the N.E., and the third from the south. The two first were +almost choked up with the trunks of trees, but the last had a clear +channel. Our tents stood on ground high above the reach of flood. The +soil was excellent, and the brushes behind us abounded with a new +species of melaleuca. + +The heat of the weather, at this time, was extremely oppressive, and +the thermometer was seldom under 100 degrees of Fahr. at noon. The +wind, too, we observed, seldom remained stationary for any length of +time, but made its regular changes every twenty-four hours. In the +morning, it invariably blew from the N.E., at noon it shifted to N.W., +and as the sun set it flew round to the eastward of south. A few dense +clouds passed over us occasionally, but no rain fell from them. + +DISEASES OF THE NATIVES. + +Our intercourse with the natives had now been constant. We had found +the interior more populous than we had any reason to expect; yet as we +advanced into it, the population appeared to increase. It was +impossible for us to judge of the disposition of the natives during the +short interviews we generally had with them, and our motions were so +rapid that we did not give them time to form any concerted plan of +attack, had they been inclined to attack us. They did not, however, +show any disposition to hostility, but, considering all things, were +quiet and orderly, nor did any instances of theft occur, or, at least, +none fell under my notice. The most loathsome of diseases prevailed +throughout the tribes, nor were the youngest infants exempt from them. +Indeed, so young were some, whose condition was truly disgusting, that +I cannot but suppose they must have been born in a state of disease; +but I am uncertain whether it is fatal or not in its results, though, +most probably it hurries many to a premature grave. How these diseases +originated it is impossible to say. Certainly not from the colony, +since the midland tribes alone were infected. Syphilis raged amongst +them with fearful violence; many had lost their noses, and all the +glandular parts were considerably affected. I distributed some Turner's +cerate to the women, but left Fraser to superintend its application. It +could do no good, of course, but it convinced the natives we intended +well towards them, and, on that account, it was politic to give it, +setting aside any humane feeling. + +POPULOUS DISTRICT. + +The country through which we passed on the 28th, was extremely low, +full of lagoons, and thickly inhabited. No change took place in the +river, or in the nature and construction of its banks. We succeeded in +getting a view of the hills we had noticed when with the last tribe, +and found that they bore from us due north, N. 22 E., and S. 130 W. +They looked bare and perpendicular, and appeared to be about twenty +miles from us. I am very uncertain as to the character of these hills, +but still think that they must have been some of the faces of the bold +cliffs that we had frequently passed under. From the size and number of +the huts, and from the great breadth of the foot-paths, we were still +further led to conclude that we were passing through a very populous +district. What the actual number of inhabitants was it is impossible to +say, but we seldom communicated with fewer than 200 daily. They sent +ambassadors forward regularly from one tribe to another, in order to +prepare for our approach, a custom that not only saved us an infinity +of time, but also great personal risk. Indeed, I doubt very much +whether we should ever have pushed so far down the river, had we not +been assisted by the natives themselves. I was particularly careful not +to do anything that would alarm them, or to permit any liberty to be +taken with their women. Our reserve in this respect seemed to excite +their surprise, for they asked sundry questions, by signs and +expressions, as to whether we had any women, and where they were. The +whole tribe generally assembled to receive us, and all, without +exception, were in a complete state of nudity, and really the loathsome +condition and hideous countenances of the women would, I should +imagine, have been a complete antidote to the sexual passion. It is to +be observed, that the women are very inferior in appearance to the men. +The latter are, generally speaking, a clean-limbed and powerful race, +much stouter in the bust than below, but withal, active, and, in some +respects, intelligent; but the women are poor, weak, and emaciated. +This, perhaps, is owing to their poverty and paucity of food, and to +the treatment they receive at the hands of the men; but the latter did +not show any unkindness towards them in our presence. + +Although I desired to avoid exciting their alarm, I still made a point +of showing them the effects of a gunshot, by firing at a kite, or any +other bird that happened to be near. My dexterity--for I did not trust +Fraser, who would, ten to one, have missed his mark--was generally +exerted, as I have said, against a kite or a crow; both of which birds +generally accompanied the blacks from place to place to pick up the +remnants of their meals. Yet, I was often surprised at the apparent +indifference with which the natives not only saw the effect of the +shot, but heard the report. I have purposely gone into the centre of a +large assemblage and fired at a bird that has fallen upon their very +heads, without causing a start or an exclamation, without exciting +either their alarm or their curiosity. + +Whence this callous feeling proceeded, whether from strength of nerve, +or because they had been informed by our forerunners that we should +show off before them, I know not, but I certainly expected a very +different effect from that which my firing generally produced, although +I occasionally succeeded in scattering them pretty well. + +JUNCTION OF THE RUFUS. + +About 11 a.m., we arrived at the junction of a small river with the +Murray, at which a tribe, about 250 in number, had assembled to greet +us. We landed, therefore, for the double purpose of distributing +presents, and of examining the junction, which, coming from the north, +of course, fell into the Murray upon its right bank. Its waters were so +extremely muddy, and its current so rapid, that it must have been +swollen by some late rains. Perhaps, it had its sources in the hills we +had seen; be that as it may, it completely discoloured the waters of +the Murray. + +We made it a point never to distribute any presents among the natives +until we had made them all sit, or stand, in a row. Sometimes this was +a troublesome task, but we generally succeeded in gaining our point; +with a little exertion of patience. M'Leay was a famous hand at +ordering the ranks, and would, I am sure, have made a capital +drill-sergeant, not less on account of his temper than of his +perseverance. I called the little tributary I have noticed, the Rufus, +in honour of my friend M'Leay's red head, and I have no doubt, he will +understand the feeling that induced me to give it such a name. + +GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATION. + +Not many miles below the Rufus, we passed under a lofty cliff upon the +same side with it. It is the first elevation of any consequence that +occurs below the Darling, and not only on that account, but also on +account of the numerous substances of which it is composed, and the +singular formation that is near requires to be particularly noticed. +[See Appendix.] The examination was a task of considerable danger, and +both Fraser and myself had well nigh been buried under a mass of the +cliff that became suddenly detached, and, breaking into thousands of +pieces, went hissing and cracking into the river. + +THUNDER STORMS. + +The weather about this time was extremely oppressive and close. Thunder +clouds darkened the sky, but no rain fell. The thermometer was seldom +below 104 at noon, and its range was very trifling. The wind shifted +several times during the twenty-four hours; but these changes had no +effect on the thermometer. It was evident, however, as the sun set on +the evening of the 26th, that the clouds from which thunder had for the +last four or five days disturbed the silence of nature around us, would +not long support their own weight. A little before midnight, it +commenced raining, and both wind and rain continued to increase in +violence until about seven in the morning of the 27th; when the weather +moderated. + +Two or three blacks had accompanied us from the last tribe, and had +lain down near the fire. As the storm increased, however, they got up, +and swimming across the river, left us to ourselves. This was a very +unusual thing, nor can I satisfy myself as to their object, unless it +was to get into shelter, for these people though they wander naked over +the country, and are daily in the water, feel the cold and rain very +acutely. + +Observing the clouds collecting for so many days, I indulged hopes that +we were near high lands, perhaps mountains; but from the loftiest spots +we could see nothing but a level and dark horizon. Anxious to gain as +correct a knowledge of the country as possible we had, in the course of +the day, ascended a sandy ridge that was about a mile from the river. +The view from the summit of this ridge promised to be more extensive +than any we had of late been enabled to obtain; and as far as actual +observation went, we were not disappointed, although in every other +particular, the landscape was one of the most unpromising description. +To the S. and S.E., the country might be said to stretch away in one +unbroken plain, for it was so generally covered with wood that every +inequality was hidden from our observation. To the S.W. the river line +was marked out by a succession of red cliffs, similar to those we had +already passed. To the north, the interior was evidently depressed; it +was overgrown with a low scrub, and seemed to be barren in the extreme. +The elevations upon which we stood were similar to the sand-hills near +the coast, and had not a blade of grass upon them. Yet, notwithstanding +the sterility of the soil, the large white amarillis which grew in such +profusion on the alluvial plains of the Macquarie, was also abundant +here. But it had lost its dazzling whiteness, and had assumed a sickly +yellow colour and its very appearance indicated that it was not in a +congenial soil. + +LINDESAY RIVER. + +We passed two very considerable junctions, the one coming from the +S.E., the other from the north. Both had currents in them, but the +former was running much stronger than the latter. It falls into the +Murray, almost opposite to the elevations I have been describing, and, +if a judgment can be hazarded from its appearance at its embouchure, it +must, in its higher branches, be a stream of considerable magnitude. +Under this impression, I have called it the Lindesay, as a tribute of +respect to my commanding officer, Colonel Patrick Lindesay of the 39th +regt. I place it in east long. 140 degrees 29 minutes, and in lat. 33 +degrees 58 minutes south. Mr. Hume is of opinion that this is the most +southerly of the rivers crossed by him and Mr. Hovel in 1823; but, as I +have already remarked, I apprehend that all the rivers those gentlemen +crossed, had united in one main stream above the junction of the +Morumbidgee, and I think it much more probable that this is a new +river, and that it rises to the westward of Port Phillips, rather than +in the S.E. angle of the coast. + +NATIVES BECOME TROUBLESOME. + +We found the blacks who had deserted us with a tribe at the junction, +but it was weak in point of numbers; as were also two other tribes or +hordes to whom we were introduced in rapid succession. Taken +collectively, they could not have amounted to 230 men, women, and +children. The last of these hordes was exceedingly troublesome, and I +really thought we should have been obliged to quarrel with them. +Whether it was that we were getting impatient, or that our tempers were +soured, I know not, but even M'Leay, whose partiality towards the +natives was excessive at the commencement of our journey, now became +weary of such constant communication as we had kept up with them. Their +sameness of appearance, the disgusting diseases that raged among them, +their abominable filth, the manner in which they pulled us about, and +the impossibility of making them understand us, or of obtaining any +information from them,--for if we could have succeeded in this point, +we should have gladly borne every inconvenience,--all combined to +estrange us from these people and to make their presence disagreeable. +Yet there was an absolute necessity to keep up the chain of +communication, to ensure our own safety, setting aside every other +consideration; but as I had been fortunate in my intercourse with the +natives during the first expedition, so I hoped the present journey +would terminate without the occurrence of any fatal collision between +us. The natives, it is true, were generally quiet; but they crowded +round us frequently without any regard to our remonstrances, laying +hold of the boat to prevent our going away, and I sometimes thought +that had any of them been sufficiently bold to set the example, many of +the tribes would have attempted our capture. Indeed, in several +instances, we were obliged to resort to blows ere we could disengage +ourselves from the crowds around us, and whenever this occurred, it +called forth the most sullen and ferocious scowl--such, probably, as +would be the forerunner of hostility, and would preclude every hope of +mercy at their hands. With each new tribe we were, in some measure, +obliged to submit to an examination, and to be pulled about, and +fingered all over. They generally measured our hands and feet with +their own, counted our fingers, felt our faces, and besmeared our +shirts all over with grease and dirt. This was no very agreeable +ceremony, and a repetition of it was quite revolting, more especially +when we had to meet the grins or frowns of the many with firmness and +composure. + +TEMPESTUOUS WEATHER. + +The weather had been tempestuous and rainy, for three or four +successive days: on the 28th it cleared up a little. Under any +circumstances, however, we could not have delayed our journey. We had +not proceeded very far when it again commenced to rain and to blow +heavily from the N.W. The river trended to the South. We passed down +several rapids, and observed the marks of recent flood on the trees, to +the height of seven feet. The alluvial flats did not appear to have +been covered, or to be subject to overflow. The timber upon them was +not of a kind that is found on flooded lands, but wherever reeds +prevailed the flooded or blue gum stretched its long white branches +over them. The country to the westward was low and bushy. + +SINGULAR FORMATION OF THE BANKS. + +The left bank of the Murray was extremely lofty, and occasionally rose +to 100 feet perpendicularly from the water. It is really difficult to +describe the appearance of the banks at this place; so singular were +they in character, and so varied in form. Here they had the most +beautiful columnar regularity, with capitals somewhat resembling the +Corinthian order in configuration; there they showed like falls of +muddy water that had suddenly been petrified; and in another place they +resembled the time-worn battlements of a feudal castle. It will +naturally be asked, of what could these cliffs have been composed to +assume so many different forms? and what could have operated to produce +such unusual appearances? The truth is, they were composed almost +wholly of clay and sand. Wherever the latter had accumulated, or +predominated, the gradual working of water had washed it away, and left +the more compact body, in some places, so delicately hollowed out, that +it seemed rather the work of art than of nature. This singular +formation rested on a coarse grit, that showed itself in slabs. + +From the frequent occurrence of rapids I should imagine that we had +fallen considerably, but there was no visible decline of country. The +river swept along, in broad and noble reaches, at the base of the +cliffs. Vast accumulations of sand were in its bed, a satisfactory +proof of the sandy character of the distant interior, if other proof +were wanting. + +We did not see so many natives on the 28th as we had been in the habit +of seeing; perhaps in consequence of the boisterous weather. A small +tribe of about sixty had collected to receive us, but we passed on +without taking any notice of them, Nevertheless they deputed two of +their men to follow us, who overtook us just as we stopped for the +purpose of pitching our tents before the clouds should burst, that just +then bore the most threatening appearance. The blacks seemed to be +perfectly aware what kind of a night we should have, and busied +themselves preparing a hut and making a large fire. + +The evening proved extremely dark, and towards midnight it blew and +rained fiercely. Towards morning the wind moderated, and the rain +ceased. Still, the sky was overcast, and the clouds were passing +rapidly over us. The wind had, however, changed some points, and from +the N.W. had veered round to the S.S.W.; and the day eventually turned +out cool and pleasant. + +LARGE TRIBE OF NATIVES--THEIR INDIFFERENCE TO FIRE-ARMS. + +We fell in with a large tribe of natives, amounting in all to 270. They +were extremely quiet, and kept away from the boat; in consequence of +which I distributed a great many presents among them. This tribe was +almost the only one that evinced any eagerness to see us. The lame had +managed to hobble along, and the blind were equally anxious to touch +us. There were two or three old men stretched upon the bank, from whom +the last sigh seemed about to depart; yet these poor creatures evinced +an anxiety to see us, and to listen to a description of our appearance, +although it seemed doubtful whether they would be alive twenty-four +hours after we left them. An old woman, a picture of whom would disgust +my readers, made several attempts to embrace me. I managed, however, to +avoid her, and at length got rid of her by handing her over to Fraser, +who was no wise particular as to the object of his attention. This +tribe must have been one of the most numerous on the banks of the +Murray, since we fell in with detached families for many miles below +the place where we had parted from the main body. + +I have omitted to mention that, while among them, I fired at a kite and +killed it; yet, though close to me, the blacks did not start or evince +the least surprise. It really is difficult to account for such firmness +of nerve or self-command. It is not so much a matter of surprise that +they were indifferent to its effects, for probably they knew them not, +but it is certainly odd that they should not have been startled by the +report. + +The river inclined very much to the southward for some miles below our +last camp; at length it struck against some elevations that turned it +more to the westward. Before we terminated our day's pull it again +changed its direction to the eastward of south. The right bank became +lofty, and the left proportionably depressed. + +REFLECTIONS ON THE PROGRESS OF THE EXPEDITION. + +In consequence of the boisterous weather we had had, we were uncertain +as to our precise situation, even in point of latitude. But I was +perfectly aware that we were considerably to the south of the head of +St. Vincent's Gulf. I began, therefore, to contemplate with some +confidence a speedy termination to our wanderings, or, at least, that +we should soon reach the extreme point to which we could advance. The +sun was at this time out of my reach, since the sextant would not +measure double the altitude. Observations of the stars were, in like +manner, uncertain, in consequence of the boisterous weather we had had, +and the unavoidable agitation of the quicksilver. My last observation +of Antares placed us in latitude 34 degrees 4 minutes; so that we were +still 115 miles from the coast. + +We had now been twenty-two days upon the river, and it was uncertain +how long we should be in compassing the distance we had still to run. +Considering all things, we had, as yet, been extremely fortunate; and I +hoped that we should terminate our journey without the occurrence of +any fatal accident. Had the country corresponded with the noble stream +that traversed it, we should have been proportionably elated, but it +was impossible to conceal from ourselves its inhospitable and +unprofitable character, as far as we had, as yet, penetrated. If we +except the partial and alluvial flats on the immediate borders, and in +the neighbourhood of its tributaries and creeks, the Murray might be +said to flow through a barren and sandy interior. The appearance of the +country through which we passed on the 29th, was far from being such as +to encourage us with the hopes of any change for the better. The river +was enclosed, on either side, by the same kind of banks that have +already been described; and it almost appeared as if the plain had been +rent asunder to allow of a passage for its waters. The view of the +distant interior was unsatisfactory. It was, for the most part, covered +with brush, but, at length, cypresses again made their appearance, +although at a considerable distance from us. + +The river continued to flow to the southward, a circumstance that gave +me much satisfaction, for I now began to feel some anxiety about the +men. They had borne their fatigues and trials so cheerfully, and had +behaved so well, that I could not but regret the scanty provision that +remained for them. The salt meat being spoiled, it had fallen to the +share of the dogs, so that we had little else than flour to eat. Fish +no one would touch, and of wild fowl there were none to be seen. The +men complained of sore eyes, from the perspiration constantly running +into them, and it was obvious to me that they were much reduced. It +will be borne in mind, that we were now performing the earliest part of +our task, and were going down with the stream. I was sure that on our +return, (For I had no hopes of meeting any vessel on the coast,) we +should have to make every day's journey good against the current; and, +if the men were now beginning to sink, it might well be doubted whether +their strength would hold out. Both M'Leay and myself, therefore, +encouraged any cheerfulness that occasionally broke out among them, and +Frazer enlivened them by sundry tunes that he whistled whilst employed +in skinning birds. I am sure, no galley-slave ever took to his oar with +more reluctance than poor Frazer. He was indefatigable in most things, +but he could not endure the oar. + +NATIVES BECOME UNRULY. + +We did not fall in with any natives on the 30th, neither did we see +those who had preceded us from the last tribe. On the 31st, to my +mortification, the river held so much to the northward, that we undid +almost all our southing. What with its regular turns, and its extensive +sweeps, the Murray covers treble the ground, at a moderate computation, +that it would occupy in a direct course; and we had a practical +instance of the truth of this in the course of the afternoon, when we +found our friends ready to introduce us to a large assemblage of +natives. On asking them how they had passed us, they pointed directly +east to the spot at which we had parted. By crossing from one angle of +the river to the other, they had performed in little more than half a +day, a journey which it had taken us two long days to accomplish. After +our usual distribution of presents, we pushed away from the bank; +though not without some difficulty, in consequence of the obstinacy of +the natives in wishing to detain us; and I was exceedingly vexed to +find, while we were yet in sight of them, that we had proceeded down a +shallow channel on one side of an island instead of the further and +deeper one; so that the boat ultimately grounded. A crowd of the blacks +rushed into the water, and surrounded us on every side. Some came to +assist us, others, under a pretence of assisting, pulled against us, +and I was at length obliged to repel them by threats. A good many of +them were very much disposed to annoy us, and, after the boat was in +deep water, some of them became quite infuriated, because we would not +return. Had we been within distance, they would assuredly have hurled +their spears at us. Thirteen of them followed us to our resting place. +They kept rather apart from us, and kindled their fire in a little +hollow about fifty paces to our right; nor did they venture to approach +the tents unless we called to them, so that by their quiet and +unobtrusive conduct they made up in some measure for the unruly +proceedings of others of their tribe. + +We had now arrived at a point at which I hoped to gain some information +from the natives, respecting the sea. It was to no purpose, however, +that I questioned these stupid people. They understood perfectly, by my +pointing to the sky, and by other signs, that I was inquiring about +large waters, but they could not, or would not, give any information on +the subject. + +CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY. + +As we proceeded down the river, its current became weaker, and its +channel somewhat deeper. Our attention was called to a remarkable +change in the geology of the country, as well as to an apparent +alteration in the natural productions. The cliffs of sand and clay +ceased, and were succeeded by a fossil formation of the most singular +description. At first, it did not exceed a foot in height above the +water, but it gradually rose, like an inclined plane, and resembled in +colour, and in appearance, the skulls of men piled one upon the other. +The constant rippling of the water against the rock had washed out the +softer parts, and made hollows and cavities, that gave the whole +formation the precise appearance of a catacomb. On examination, we +discovered it to be a compact bed of shells, composed of a common +description of marine shell from two to three inches in length, +apparently a species of turritella. + +BANKS OF PETRIFIED SHELLS. + +At about nine miles from the commencement of this formation, it rose to +the height of more than 150 feet; the country became undulating, and a +partial change took place in its vegetation. We stopped at an early +hour, to examine some cliffs, which rising perpendicularly from the +water, were different in character and substance from any we had as yet +seen. They approached a dirty yellow-ochre in colour, that became +brighter in hue as it rose, and, instead of being perforated, were +compact and hard. The waters of the river had, however, made horizontal +lines upon their fronts, which distinctly marked the rise and fall of +the river, as the strength or depth of the grooves distinctly indicated +the levels it generally kept. It did not appear from these lines, that +the floods ever rose more than four feet above the then level of the +stream, or that they continued for any length of time. On breaking off +pieces of the rock, we ascertained that it was composed of one solid +mass of sea-shells, of various kinds, of which the species first +mentioned formed the lowest part. + +It rained a good deal during the night, but the morning turned out +remarkably fine. The day was pleasant, for however inconvenient in some +respects the frequent showers had been, they had cooled the air, and +consequently prevented our feeling the heat so much as we should +otherwise have done, in the close and narrow glen we had now entered. + +Among the natives who followed us from the last tribe, there was an old +man, who took an uncommon fancy or attachment to Hopkinson, and who +promised, when we separated, to join us again in the course of the day. + +FACE OF THE COUNTRY. + +As we proceeded down the river we found that it was confined in a glen, +whose extreme breadth was not more than half-a-mile. The hills that +rose on either side of it were of pretty equal height. The alluvial +flats were extremely small, and the boldest cliffs separated them from +each other. The flats were lightly wooded, and were for the most part +covered with reeds or polygonum. They were not much elevated above the +waters of the river, and had every appearance of being frequently +inundated. At noon we pulled up to dine, upon the left bank, under some +hills, which were from 200 to 250 feet in height. While the men were +preparing our tea, (for we had only that to boil,) M'Leay and I +ascended the hills. The brush was so thick upon them, that we could not +obtain a view of the distant interior. Their summits were covered with +oyster-shells, in such abundance as entirely to preclude the idea of +their having been brought to such a position by the natives. They were +in every stage of petrification. + +In the course of the afternoon the old man joined us, and got into the +boat. As far as we could understand from his signs, we were at no great +distance from some remarkable change or other. The river had been +making to the N.W., from the commencement of the fossil formation, and +it appeared as if it was inclined to keep that direction. The old man +pointed to the N.W., and then placed his hand on the side of his head +to indicate, as I understood him, that we should sleep to the N.W. of +where we then were; but his second motion was not so intelligible, for +he pointed due south, as if to indicate that such would be our future +course; and he concluded his information, such as it was, by describing +the roaring of the sea, and the height of the waves. It was evident +this old man had been upon the coast, and we were therefore highly +delighted at the prospect thus held out to us of reaching it. + +REMARKABLE CLIFFS. + +A little below the hills under which we had stopped, the country again +assumed a level. A line of cliffs, of from two to three hundred feet in +height, flanked the river, first on one side and then on the other, +varying in length from a quarter of a mile to a mile. They rose +perpendicularly from the water, and were of a bright yellow colour, +rendered still more vivid occasionally by the sun shining full upon +them. The summits of these cliffs were as even as if they had been +built by an architect; and from their very edge, the country back from +the stream was of an uniform level, and was partly plain, and partly +clothed by brush. The soil upon this plateau, or table land, was sandy, +and it was as barren and unproductive as the worst of the country we +had passed through. On the other hand, the alluvial flats on the river +increased in size, and were less subject to flood; and the river lost +much of its sandy bed, and its current was greatly diminished in +strength. + +NATIVE CHARACTER. + +It blew so fresh, during the greater part of the day, from the +westward, that we had great difficulty in pulling against the breeze. +The determined N.W. course the river kept, made me doubt the +correctness of the story of the little old black; yet there was an +openness of manner about him, and a clearness of description, that did +not appear like fabrication. He pointed to the S.S.W. when he left us, +as the direction in which he would again join us, thus confirming, +without any apparent intention, what he had stated with regard to the +southerly course the river was about to take. Among the natives who +were with him, there was another man of very different manners and +appearance. Our friend was small in stature, had piercing grey eyes, +and was as quick as lightning in his movements The other was tall, and +grey headed; anxious, yet unobtrusive; and confident, without the least +mixture of boldness. The study of the human character on many occasions +similar to this, during our intercourse with these people, rude and +uncivilized as they were, was not only pleasing, but instructive. We +found that the individuals of a tribe partook of one general character, +and that the whole of the tribe were either decidedly quiet, or as +decidedly disorderly. The whole of the blacks left us when we started, +but we had not gone very far, when the individual I have described +brought his family, consisting of about fifteen persons. We were going +down a part of the river in which there was a very slight fall. The +natives were posted under some blue-gum trees, upon the right bank, and +there was a broad shoal of sand immediately to our left. They walked +over to this shoal, to receive some little presents, but did not follow +when we continued our journey. + +TAKE BEARINGS. + +During the whole of the day the river ran to the N.W. We stopped for +the night under some cliffs, similar to those we had already passed, +but somewhat higher. From their summit, mountains were visible to the +N.W., but at a great distance from us. I doubted not that they were at +the head of the southern gulfs; or of one of them, at all events. Our +observations placed us in 34 degrees 08 minutes south of lat., and in +long. 139 degrees 41 minutes 15 seconds; we were consequently nearly +seventy miles from Spencer's Gulf, in a direct line, and I should have +given that as the distance the hills appeared to be from us. They bore +as follows:-- + + Lofty round mountain, S. 127 degrees W. + Mountain scarcely visible, S. 128 degrees W. + Northern extremity of a broken range, S. 102 degrees W. + Southern extremity scarcely visible, S. 58 degrees W. + +The country between the river and these ranges appeared to be very low, +and darkly wooded: that to the N.E. was more open. The summit of the +cliff did not form any table-land, but it dipped almost immediately to +the westward, and the country, although, as I have already remarked, it +was depressed, and undulated. + +I walked to some distance from the river, across a valley, and started +several kangaroos; but I was quite alone, and could not, therefore, +secure one of them. Had the dogs been near, we should have had a fine +feast. The soil of the interior still continued sandy, but there was a +kind of short grass mixed with the salsolaceous plants upon it, that +indicated, as I thought, a change for the better in the vegetation; and +the circumstance of there being kangaroos in the valleys to the +westward was also a favourable sign. + +FEAST ON A TORTOISE. + +Beneath the cliffs hereabouts, the river was extremely broad and deep. +My servant thought it a good place for fishing and accordingly set a +night-line, one end of which he fastened to the bough of a tree. During +the night, being on guard, he saw a small tortoise floating on the +water, so near that he struck it a violent blow with a large stick, +upon which it dived: to his surprise, however, in the morning, he found +that it had taken the bait, and was fast to the line. On examining it, +the shell proved to be cracked, so that the blow must have been a +severe one. It was the largest we had ever seen, and made an excellent +dish. The flesh was beautifully white, nor could anything, especially +under our circumstances, have been more tempting than it was when +cooked; yet M'Leay would not partake of it. + +The prevailing wind was, at this time, from the S.W. It blew heavily +all day, but moderated towards the evening. + +I was very anxious, at starting on the 3rd, as to the course the river +would take, since it would prove whether the little old man had played +us false or not. From the cliffs under which we had slept, it held a +direct N.W. course for two or three miles. It then turned suddenly to +the S.E., and gradually came round to E.N.E., so that after two hours +pulling, we found ourselves just opposite to the spot from which we had +started, the neck of land that separated the channels not being more +than 200 yards across. I have before noticed a bend similar to this, +which the Murray makes, a little above the junction of the supposed +Darling with it. + +CHART OF THE RIVER. + +It may appear strange to some of my readers, that I should have laid +down the windings of the river so minutely. It may therefore be +necessary for me to state that every bend of it was laid down by +compass, and that the bearings of the angles as they opened were +regularly marked by me, so that not a single winding or curve of the +Murray is omitted in the large chart. The length of some of the reaches +may be erroneous, but their direction is strictly correct. I always had +a sheet of paper and the compass before me, and not only marked down +the river line, but also the description of country nearest; its most +minute changes, its cliffs, its flats, the kind of country back from +it, its lagoons, the places at which the tribes assembled, its +junctions, tributaries and creeks, together with our several positions, +were all regularly noted, so that on our return up the river we had no +difficulty in ascertaining upon what part of it we were, by a reference +to the chart; and it proved of infinite service to us, since we were +enabled to judge of our distance from our several camps, as we gained +them day by day with the current against us; and we should often have +stopped short of them, weary and exhausted, had we not known that two +or three reaches more would terminate our labour for the day. + +REMARKABLE CLIFFS. + +From the spot last spoken of, the river held on a due south course for +the remainder of the day; and at the same time changed its character. +It lost its sandy bed and its current together, and became deep, still, +and turbid, with a muddy bottom. It increased considerably in breadth, +and stretched away before us in magnificent reaches of from three to +six miles in length. The cliffs under which we passed towered above us, +like maritime cliffs, and the water dashed against their base like the +waves of the sea. They became brighter and brighter in colour, looking +like dead gold in the sun's rays; and formed an unbroken wall of a mile +or two in length. The natives on their summits showed as small as +crows; and the cockatoos, the eagles, and other birds, were as specks +above us; the former made the valley reverberate with their harsh and +discordant notes. The reader may form some idea of the height of these +cliffs, when informed that the king of the feathered race made them his +sanctuary. They were continuous on both sides of the river, but +retired, more or less, from it, according to the extent of the alluvial +flats. The river held a serpentine course down the valley through which +it passed, striking the precipices alternately on each side. + +The soil on the flats was better, and less mixed with sand than it had +been, but the flats were generally covered with reeds, though certainly +not wholly subject to flood at any time. The polygonum still prevailed +upon them in places, and the blue-gum tree alone occupied their +outskirts. From the several elevations we ascended, the country to the +N.W. appeared undulating and well wooded; that to the eastward, seemed +to be brushy and low. Certainly there was a great difference in the +country, both to the eastward and to the westward. We had frequent +views of the mountains we had seen, or, I should have said, of a +continuation of them. They bore nearly west from us at a very great +distance all day. + +We fell in with several tribes, but did not see our old friend, +although, from the inquiries we made, it was evident he was well known +among them. It would disgust my readers were I to describe the +miserable state of disease and infirmity to which these tribes were +reduced. Leprosy of the most loathsome description, the most violent +cutaneous eruptions, and glandular affections, absolutely raged through +the whole of them; yet we could not escape from the persecuting +examination of our persons that curiosity prompted them in some measure +to insist upon. + +REJOINED BY OUR OLD NATIVE GUIDE. + +The old man, whose information had proved strictly correct, joined us +again on the 4th, and his joy at being received into the boat was +unbounded, as well as the pleasure he expressed at again meeting +Hopkinson. He had been on a long journey, it would appear, for he had +not then reached his tribe. As we approached their haunt, he landed and +preceded us to collect them. We were, of course, more than usually +liberal to so old a friend, and we were really sorry to part with him. + +Soon after leaving his tribe, which occupied the left bank of the +river, and was very weak in point of numbers, we fell in with a very +strong tribe upon the right bank. They numbered 211 in all. We lay off +the bank, in order to escape their importunities; a measure that by no +means satisfied them. The women appeared to be very prolific; but, as a +race, these people are not to be compared with the natives of the +mountains, or of the upper branches of the Murray. + +We passed some beautiful scenery in the course of the day. The river +preserved a direct southerly course, and could not in any place have +been less than 400 yards in breadth. The cliffs still continued, and +varied perpetually in form; at one time presenting a perpendicular wall +to the view, at others, they overhung the stream, in huge fragments. +All were composed of a mass of shells of various kinds; a fact which +will call for further observation and remark. + +DELAYED BY STRONG WINDS. + +Many circumstances at this time tended to confirm our hopes that the +sea could not be very far from us, or that we should not be long in +gaining it. Some sea-gulls flew over our heads, at which Fraser was +about to shoot, had I not prevented him, for I hailed them as the +messengers of glad tidings, and thought they ill deserved such a fate. +It blew very hard from the S.W., during the whole of the day, and we +found it extremely laborious pulling against the heavy and short sea +that came rolling up the broad and open reaches of the Murray at this +place. + +Four of the blacks, from the last tribe, followed us, and slept at the +fires; but they were suspicious and timid, and appeared to be very glad +when morning dawned. Our fires were always so much larger than those +made by themselves, that, they fancied, perhaps, we were going to roast +them. Our dogs, likewise, gave them great uneasiness; for although so +fond of the native brute, they feared ours, from their size. We +generally tied them to the boat, therefore, to prevent a recurrence of +theft, so that they were not altogether useless. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Improvement in the aspect of the country--Increase of the river--Strong +westerly gales--Chronometer broken--A healthier tribe of +natives--Termination of the Murray in a large lake--Its extent and +environs--Passage across it--Hostile appearance of the +natives--Beautiful scenery--Channel from the lake to the sea at +Encounter Bay--Reach the beach--Large flocks of water fowl--Curious +refraction--State of provisions--Embarrassing situation--Inspection of +the channel to the ocean--Weak condition of the men--Difficulties of +the return. + + +DELIGHTFUL COUNTRY. + +It now appeared that the Murray had taken a permanent southerly course; +indeed, it might strictly be said that it ran away to the south. As we +proceeded down it, the valley expanded to the width of two miles; the +alluvial flats became proportionably larger; and a small lake generally +occupied their centre. They were extensively covered with reeds and +grass, for which reason, notwithstanding that they were little elevated +above the level of the stream, I do not think they are subject to +overflow. Parts of them may be laid under water, but certainly not the +whole. The rains at the head of the Murray, and its tributaries, must +be unusually severe to prolong their effects to this distant region, +and the flats bordering it appear, by successive depositions, to have +only just gained a height above the further influence of the floods. +Should this prove to be the case, the valley may be decidedly laid down +as a most desirable spot, whether we regard the richness of its soil, +its rock formation, its locality, or the extreme facility of water +communication along it. It must not, however, be forgotten or +concealed, that the summits of the cliffs by which the valley is +enclosed, have not a corresponding soil. On the contrary, many of the +productions common to the plains of the interior still existed upon +them, and they were decidedly barren; but as we measured the reaches of +the river, the cliffs ceased, and gave place to undulating hills, that +were very different in appearance from the country we had previously +noted down. It would have been impossible for the most tasteful +individual to have laid out pleasure ground to more advantage, than +Nature had done in planting and disposing the various groups of trees +along the spine, and upon the sides of the elevations that confined the +river, and bounded the low ground that intervened between it and their +base. Still, however, the soil upon these elevations was sandy, and +coarse, but the large oat-grass was abundant upon them, which yielded +pasture at least as good as that in the broken country between +Underaliga and Morumbidgee. + +We had now gained a distance of at least sixty miles from that angle of +the Murray at which it reaches its extreme west. The general aspect of +the country to our right was beautiful, and several valleys branched +away into the interior upon that side which had a most promising +appearance, and seemed to abound with kangaroos, as the traces of them +were numerous, and the dogs succeeded in killing one, which, to our +great mortification, we could not find. + +While, however, the country to the westward had so much to recommend +it, the hills to our left became extremely bare. It was evident that +the right was the sheltered side of the valley. The few trees on the +opposite side bent over to the N.E., as if under the influence of some +prevailing wind. + +ADVERSE GALES. + +We experienced at this time a succession of gales from the S.W., +against which we, on several occasions, found it useless to contend: +the waves on the river being heavy and short; and the boat, driving her +prow into them, sent the spray over us and soon wet us through. Indeed, +it is difficult for the reader to imagine the heavy swell that rolled +up the river, which had increased in breadth to the third of a mile, +and in the length of its reaches to eight or ten. I was satisfied that +we were not only navigating this river at a particularly stormy, +perhaps THE stormy, season; but also, that the influence of the S.W. +wind is felt even as far in the interior as to the supposed Darling; in +consequence of the uniform build of the huts, and the circumstance of +their not only facing the N.E., but also being almost invariably +erected under the lee of some bush. + +The weather, under the influence of the wind we experienced, was cool +and pleasant, although the thermometer stood at a medium height of 86 +degrees; but we found it very distressing to pull against the heavy +breezes that swept up the valley, and bent the reeds so as almost to +make them kiss the stream. + +We communicated on the 6th and 7th with several large tribes of +natives, whose manners were on the whole quiet and inoffensive. They +distinctly informed us, that we were fast approaching the sea, and, +from what I could understand, we were nearer to it than the coast line +of Encounter Bay made us. We had placed sticks to ascertain if there +was any rise or fall of tide, but the troubled state of the river +prevented our experiments from being satisfactory. By selecting a +place, however, that was sheltered from the effects of the wind, we +ascertained that there was an apparent rise of about eight inches. + +OBLIGED TO TAKE REPOSE. + +It blew a heavy gale during the whole of the 7th; and we laboured in +vain at the oar. The gusts that swept the bosom of the water, and the +swell they caused, turned the boat from her course, and prevented us +from making an inch of way. The men were quite exhausted, and, as they +had conducted themselves so well, and had been so patient, I felt +myself obliged to grant them every indulgence consistent with our +safety. However precarious our situation, it would have been vain, with +our exhausted strength, to have contended against the elements. We, +therefore, pulled in to the left bank of the river, and pitched our +tents on a little rising ground beyond the reeds that lined it. + +CHRONOMETER BROKEN. + +I had been suffering very much front tooth-ache for the last three or +four days, and this day felt the most violent pain from the wind. I was +not, therefore, sorry to get under even the poor shelter our tents +afforded. M'Leay, observing that I was in considerable pain, undertook +to wind up the chronometer; but, not understanding or knowing the +instrument, he unfortunately broke the spring. I shall not forget the +anxiety he expressed, and the regret he felt on the occasion; nor do I +think M'Leay recovered the shock this unlucky accident gave him for two +or three days, or until the novelty of other scenes drove it from his +recollection. + +We landed close to the haunt of a small tribe of natives, who came to +us with the most perfect confidence, and assisted the men in their +occupations. They were cleaner and more healthy than any tribe we had +seen; and were extremely cheerful, although reserved in some respects. +As a mark of more than usual cleanliness, the women had mats of oval +shape, upon which they sat, made, apparently, of rushes. There was a +young girl among them of a most cheerful disposition. She was about +eighteen, was well made, and really pretty. This girl was married to an +elderly man who had broken his leg, which having united in a bent +shape, the limb was almost useless. I really believe the girl thought +we could cure her husband, from her importunate manner to us. I +regretted that I could do nothing for the man, but to show that I was +not inattentive to her entreaties, I gave him a pair of trousers, and +desired Fraser to put them upon him; but the poor fellow cut so awkward +an appearance in them, that his wife became quite distressed, and +Fraser was obliged speedily to disencumber him from them again. + +We could not gain any satisfactory information, as to the termination +of the river, from these people. It was evident that some change was at +hand; but what it was we could not ascertain. + +APPEARANCE OF SOME APPROACHING CHANGE. + +On the morning of the 9th, we left our fair friend and her lame +husband, and proceeded down the river. The wind had moderated, although +it still blew fresh. We ascended every height as we went along, but +could not see any new feature in the country. Our view to the eastward +was very confined; to the westward the interior was low and dark, and +was backed in the distance by lofty ranges, parallel to which we had +been running for some days. The right bank of the valley was +beautifully undulated, but the left was bleak and bare. The valley had +a breadth of from three to four miles, and the flats were more +extensive under the former than under the latter. They were scarcely +two feet above the level of the water, and were densely covered with +reeds. As there was no mark upon the reeds to indicate the height to +which the floods rose, I cannot think that these flats are ever wholly +laid under water; if they are, it cannot be to any depth: at all events +a few small drains would effectually prevent inundation. The soil upon +the hills continued to be much mixed with sand, and the prevailing +trees were cypress and box. Among the minor shrubs and grass, many +common to the east coasts were noticed; and although the bold cliffs +had ceased, the basis of the country still continued of the fossil +formation. At a turn of the stream hereabouts, however, a solitary rock +of coarse red granite rose above the waters, and formed an island in +its centre; but only in this one place was it visible. The rock was +composed principally of quartz and feldspar. + +A little below it, we found a large tribe anxiously awaiting our +arrival. They crowded to the margin of the river with great eagerness, +and evinced more surprise at our appearance than any tribe we had seen +during the journey; but we left them very soon, notwithstanding that +they importuned us much to stay. + +After pulling a mile or two, we found a clear horizon before us to the +south. The hills still continued upon our left, but we could not see +any elevation over the expanse of reeds to our right. The river +inclined to the left, and swept the base of the hills that still +continued on that side. I consequently landed once more to survey the +country. + +TERMINATION OF THE MURRAY IN A LARGE LAKE. + +I still retained a strong impression on my mind that some change was at +hand, and on this occasion, I was not disappointed; but the view was +one for which I was not altogether prepared. We had, at length, arrived +at the termination of the Murray. Immediately below me was a beautiful +lake, which appeared to be a fitting reservoir for the noble stream +that had led us to it; and which was now ruffled by the breeze that +swept over it. The ranges were more distinctly visible, stretching from +south to north, and were certainly distant forty miles. They had a +regular unbroken outline; declining gradually to the south, but +terminating abruptly at a lofty mountain northerly. I had no doubt on +my mind of this being the Mount Lofty of Captain Flinders; or that the +range was that immediately to the eastward of St. Vincent's Gulf--Since +the accident to the chronometer, we had not made any westing, so that +we knew our position as nearly as possible. Between us and the ranges a +beautiful promontory shot into the lake, being a continuation of the +right bank of the Murray. Over this promontory the waters stretched to +the base of the ranges, and formed an extensive bay. To the N.W. the +country was exceedingly low, but distant peaks were just visible over +it. To the S.W. a bold headland showed itself; beyond which, to the +westward, there was a clear and open sea visible, through a strait +formed by this headland and a point projecting from the opposite shore. +To the E. and S.E. the country was low, excepting the left shore of the +lake, which was backed by some minor elevations, crowned with +cypresses. Even while gazing on this fine scene, I could not but regret +that the Murray had thus terminated; for I immediately foresaw that, in +all probability, we should be disappointed in finding any practicable +communication between the lake and the ocean, as it was evident that +the former was not much influenced by tides. The wind had again +increased; it still blew fresh from the S.W. and a heavy sea was +rolling direct into the mouth of the river. I hoped, notwithstanding, +that we should have been enabled to make sail, for which reason we +entered the lake about 2 p.m. The natives had kindled a large fire on a +distant point between us and the further headland, and to gain this +point our efforts were now directed. The waves were, however, too +strong, and we were obliged to make for the eastern shore, until such +time as the weather should moderate. We pitched our tents on a low +track of land that stretched away seemingly for many miles directly +behind us to the eastward. It was of the richest soil, being a black +vegetable deposit, and although now high above the influence, the lake +had, it was evident, once formed a part of its bed. The appearance of +the country altogether encouraged M'Leay and myself to walk out, in +order to examine it from some hills a little to the S.E. of the camp. +From them we observed that the flat extended over about fifty miles, +and was bounded by the elevations that continued easterly from the left +bank of the Murray to the north, and by a line of rising-ground to the +south. The whole was lightly wooded, and covered with grass. The season +must have been unusually dry, judging from the general appearance of +the vegetation, and from the circumstance of the lagoons in the +interior being wholly exhausted. + +Thirty-three days had now passed over our heads since we left the depot +upon the Morumbidgee, twenty-six of which had been passed upon the +Murray. We had, at length, arrived at the grand reservoir of those +waters whose course and fate had previously been involved in such +obscurity. It remained for us to ascertain whether the extensive sheet +of water upon whose bosom we had embarked, had any practicable +communication with the ocean, and whether the country in the +neighbourhood of the coast corresponded with that immediately behind +our camp, or kept up its sandy and sterile character to the very verge +of the sea. As I have already said, my hopes on the first of these +points were considerably damped, but I could not help anticipating a +favourable change in the latter, since its features had so entirely +changed. + +DETAINED BY THE WIND. + +The greatest difficulty against which we had at present to contend was +the wind; and I dreaded the exertion it would call for, to make head +against it; for the men were so much reduced that I felt convinced they +were inadequate to any violent or prolonged effort. It still blew fresh +at 8 p.m., but at that time it began to moderate. It may be imagined +that I listened to its subdued gusts with extreme anxiety. It did not +wholly abate until after 2 a.m., when it gradually declined, and about +3 a light breeze sprung up from the N. E. + +We had again placed sticks to ascertain with more precision the rise of +tide, and found it to be the same as in the river. In the stillness of +the night too we thought we heard the roaring of the sea, but I was +myself uncertain upon the point, as the wind might have caused the +sound. + +From the top of the hill from which we had obtained our first view of +the lake, I observed the waves breaking upon the distant headland, and +enveloping the cliff in spray; so that, independent of the clearness of +the horizon beyond it, I was further led to conclude that there existed +a great expanse of water to the S.W.; and, as that had been the +direction taken by the river, I thought it probable that by steering at +once to the S.W. down the lake, I should hit the outlet. I, +consequently, resolved to gain the southern extremity of the lake, as +that at which it was natural to expect a communication with the ocean +would be found. + +GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. + +At 4 we had a moderate breeze, and it promised to strengthen; we lost +no time therefore in embarking, and with a flowing sheet stretched over +to the W.S.W., and ran along the promontory formed by the right bank of +the Murray. We passed close under its extreme point at nine. The hills +had gradually declined, and we found the point to be a flat, elevated +about thirty feet above the lake. It was separated from the promontory +by a small channel that was choked up with reeds, so that it is more +than probable that the point is insulated at certain periods; whilst in +its stratification it resembled the first cliffs I have described that +were passed below the Darling. It is a remarkable fact in the geology +of the Murray, that such should be the case; and that the formation at +each extremity of the great bank or bed of fossils should be the same. +Thus far, the waters of the lake had continued sweet; but on filling a +can when we were abreast of this point, it was found that they were +quite unpalatable, to say the least of them. The transition from fresh +to salt water was almost immediate, and it was fortunate we made the +discovery in sufficient time to prevent our losing ground. But, as it +was, we filled our casks, and stood on, without for a moment altering +our course. + +PASSAGE ACROSS THE LAKE--ITS SHALLOWNESS. + +It is difficult to give a just description of our passage across the +lake. The boisterous weather we had had seemed to have blown over. A +cool and refreshing breeze was carrying us on at between four and five +knots an hour, and the heavens above us were without a cloud. It almost +appeared as if nature had resisted us in order to try our perseverance, +and that she had yielded in pity to our efforts. The men, relieved for +a time from the oar, stretched themselves at their length in the boat, +and commented on the scenery around them, or ventured their opinions as +to that which was before them. Up to this moment their conduct had been +most exemplary; not a murmur had escaped from them, and they filled the +water-casks with the utmost cheerfulness, even whilst tasting the +disagreeable beverage they would most probably have to subsist on for +the next three or four days. + +As soon as we had well opened the point, we had a full view of the +splendid bay that, commencing at the western most of the central +points, swept in a beautiful curve under the ranges. No land was +visible to the W.N.W. or to the S.S.W.: in both these quarters the lake +was as open as the ocean. It appeared, therefore, that the land +intermediate was an island. To the north the country was extremely low, +and as we increased our distance from it we lost sight of it +altogether. At noon we were nearly abreast of the eastern headland, or +in the centre of the strait to which I have alluded. At this time there +was an open sea from W.N.W. to N. by E. A meridian altitude gave our +latitude 35 degrees 25 minutes. The land to our left was bold and +precipitous; that to the right was low and wooded; and there was +evidently a considerable space between the shores of the lake and the +base of the ranges. The country to the eastward was hidden from us by +the line of cliffs, beyond which from E.S.E. to W.S.W. there was an +open sea. We had kept the lead going from the first, and I was +surprised at the extreme shallowness of the lake in every part, as we +never had six feet upon the line. Its bottom was one of black mud, and +weeds of enormous length were floating on its surface, detached by the +late gales, and which, from the shallowness of the lake, got constantly +entangled with our rudder. + +We tried to land on the eastern point, but found the water too shallow, +and were obliged to try the western shore. In passing close under the +head, we observed several natives upon it, who kindled a large fire as +soon as they saw they were noticed, which was answered from every +point; for, in less than ten minutes afterwards, we counted no fewer +than fourteen different fires, the greater number of which were on the +side of the ranges. + +SHORES OF THE LAKE. + +As we were standing across from one shore to the other, our attention +was drawn to a most singular object. It started suddenly up, as above +the waters to the south, and strikingly resembled an isolated castle. +Behind it, a dense column of smoke rose into the sky, and the effect +was most remarkable. On a nearer approach, the phantom disappeared and +a clear and open sea again presented itself to our view. The fact was, +that the refractive power upon the coast had elevated the sand-hillocks +above their true position, since we satisfactorily ascertained that +they alone separated the lake from the ocean, and that they alone could +have produced the semblance we noticed. It is a singular fact, that +this very hillock was the one which Capt. Barker ascended whilst +carrying on the survey of the south coast, and immediately previous to +his tragical death. + +It was not without difficulty that we succeeded in landing on the +western shore; but we did, at length, succeed, and prepared our +dinners. The shore was low, but above the reach of all floods; the soil +was rich, and superficially sandy. It was covered with high grasses, +and abounded in kangaroos; within the space of a few yards we found +five or six, but they were immediately lost to us and to the dogs in +the luxuriance of the vegetation amidst which they were feeding. + +As soon as we had finished our meal, we once more embarked, and stood +along the shore to the S.W., but the lake was so shoal, that I was +every moment apprehensive we should ground. I ran across, therefore, to +the south, towards a low flat that had just appeared above the line of +the horizon, in hope that, in sounding, we should have found the +channel, but there either was none, or else it was so narrow that we +passed over it between the heaves of the lead. At this time, the +western shore was quite distinct, and the scenery was beautiful. + +The flat we were approaching was a mud-flat, and, from its appearance, +the tide was certainly at the ebb. We observed some cradles, or wicker +frames, placed far below high water-mark, that were each guarded by two +natives, who threatened us violently as we approached. In running along +the land, the stench from them plainly indicated what they were which +these poor creatures were so anxiously watching. + +We steered a S.W. course, towards some low and wooded hills, passing a +rocky island, and found that we had struck the mouth of a channel +running to the W.S.W. It was about half-a-mile wide, was bounded to the +right by some open flat ground, and to the left by a line of hills of +about sixty or seventy feet in elevation, partly open and partly +covered with beefwood. + +WARLIKE DEMEANOUR OF THE NATIVES. + +Upon the first of these hills, we observed a large body of natives, who +set up the most terrific yells as we approached. They were fully +equipped for battle and, as we neared the shore, came down to meet us +with the most violent threats. I wished much to communicate with them, +and, not without hopes of quieting them, stood right in with the +intention of landing. I observed, however, that if I did so, I should +have to protect myself. I hauled a little off, and endeavoured, by +holding up a branch and a tomahawk, to gain their confidence, but they +were not to be won over by my show of pacification. An elderly man +walked close to the water's edge unarmed, and, evidently, directed the +others. He was followed by seven or eight of the most daring, who crept +into the reeds, with their spears shipped to throw at us. I, therefore, +took up my gun to return their salute. It then appeared that they were +perfectly aware of the weapon I carried, for the moment they saw it, +they dashed out of their hiding place and retreated to the main body; +but the old man, after saying something to them, walked steadily on, +and I, on my part, laid my firelock down again. + +LOVELY EVENING. + +It was now near sunset; and one of the most lovely evenings I had ever +seen. The sun's radiance was yet upon the mountains, but all lower +objects were in shade. The banks of the channel, with the trees and the +rocks, were reflected in the tranquil waters, whose surface was +unruffled save by the thousands of wild fowl that rose before us, and +made a noise as of a multitude clapping hands, in their clumsy efforts +to rise from the waters. Not one of them allowed us to get within shot. + +We proceeded about a mile below the hill on which the natives were +posted; some few still following us with violent threats. We landed, +however, on a flat, bounded all round by the continuation of the hills. +It was an admirable position, for, in the centre of it, we could not be +taken by surprise, and, on the other hand, we gave the natives an +opportunity of communicating with us if they would. The full moon rose +as we were forming the camp, and, notwithstanding our vicinity to so +noisy a host, the silence of death was around us, or the stillness of +the night was only broken by the roar of the ocean, now too near to be +mistaken for wind, or by the silvery and melancholy note of the black +swans as they passed over us, to seek for food, no doubt, among the +slimy weeds at the head of the lake. We had been quite delighted with +the beauty of the channel, which was rather more than half-a-mile in +width. Numberless mounds, that seemed to invite civilised man to erect +his dwelling upon them, presented themselves to our view. The country +round them was open, yet ornamentally wooded, and rocks and trees hung +or drooped over the waters. + +EXTENT OF THE LAKE. + +We had in one day gained a position I once feared it would have cost us +infinite labour to have measured. Indeed, had we been obliged to pull +across the lake, unless during a calm, I am convinced the men would +have been wholly exhausted. We had to thank a kind Providence that such +was not the case, since it had extended its mercy to us at so critical +a moment. We had indeed need of all the little strength we had +remaining, and could ill have thrown it away on such an effort as this +would have required. I calculated that we could not have run less than +forty-five miles during the day, a distance that, together with the +eight miles we had advanced the evening previously, would give the +length of the lake at fifty-three miles. + +We had approached to within twelve miles of the ranges, but had not +gained their southern extremity. From the camp, Mount Barker bore +nearly north. The ranges appeared to run north and south to our +position, and then to bend away to the S.S.W., gradually declining to +that point, which I doubted not terminated in Cape Jervis. The natives +kept aloof during the night, nor did the dogs by a single growl +intimate that any had ventured to approach us. The sound of the surf +came gratefully to our ears, for it told us we were near the goal for +which we had so anxiously pushed, and we all of us promised ourselves a +view of the boundless ocean on the morrow. + +CHANNEL TO THE SEA--ITS SHALLOWNESS. + +As the morning dawned, we saw that the natives had thrown an out-post +of sixteen men across the channel, who were watching our motions; but +none showed themselves on the hills behind us, or on any part of the +south shore. We embarked as soon as we had breakfasted, A fresh breeze +was blowing from the N.E. which took us rapidly down the channel, and +our prospects appeared to be as cheering as the day, for just as we +were about to push from the shore, a seal rose close to the boat, which +we all regarded as a favourable omen. We were, however, shortly stopped +by shoals; it was in vain that we beat across the channel from one side +to the other; it was a continued shoal, and the deepest water appeared +to be under the left bank. The tide, however, had fallen, and exposed +broad flats, over which it was hopeless, under existing circumstances, +to haul the boat. We again landed on the south side of the channel, +patiently to await the high water. + +M'Leay, myself, and Fraser, ascended the hills, and went to the +opposite side to ascertain the course of the channel, for immediately +above us it turned south round the hills. We there found that we were +on a narrow tongue of land. The channel was immediately below us, and +continued to the E.S.E. as far as we could trace it. The hills we were +upon, were the sandy hills that always bound a coast that is low, and +were covered with banksias, casuarina and the grass-tree. + +To the south of the channel there was a flat, backed by a range of +sand-hummocks, that were covered with low shrubs; and beyond them the +sea was distinctly visible. We could not have been more than two and a +half miles from the beach where we stood. + +Notwithstanding the sandy nature of the soil, the fossil formation +again showed itself, not only on these hills, but also on the rocks +that were in the channel. + +A little before high water we again embarked. A seal had been observed +playing about, and we augured well from such an omen. The blacks had +been watching us from the opposite shore, and as soon as we moved, rose +to keep abreast of us. With all our efforts we could not avoid the +shoals. We walked up to our knees in mud and water, to find the least +variation in the depth of the water so as to facilitate our exertions, +but it was to no purpose. We were ultimately obliged to drag the boat +over the flats; there were some of them a quarter of a mile in breadth, +knee-deep in mud; but at length got her into deep water again. The turn +of the channel was now before us, and we had a good run for about four +or five miles. We had completed the bend, and the channel now stretched +to the E.S.E. At about nine miles from us there was a bright sand-hill +visible, near which the channel seemed to turn again to the south; and +I doubted not that it terminated there. It was to no purpose, however, +that we tried to gain it. Shoals again closed in upon us on every side. +We dragged the boat over several, and at last got amongst quicksands. +I, therefore, directed our efforts to hauling the boat over to the +south side of the channel, as that on which we could most +satisfactorily ascertain our position. After great labour we succeeded, +and, as evening had closed in, lost no time in pitching the tents. + +BEACH OF ENCOUNTER BAY. + +While the men were thus employed, I took Fraser with me, and, +accompanied by M'Leay, crossed the sand-hummocks behind us, and +descended to the sea-shore. I found that we had struck the south coast +deep in the bight of Encounter Bay. We had no time for examination, but +returned immediately to the camp, as I intended to give the men an +opportunity to go to the beach. They accordingly went and bathed, and +returned not only highly delighted at this little act of good nature on +my part, but loaded with cockles, a bed of which they had managed to +find among the sand. Clayton had tied one end of his shirt up, and +brought a bag full, and amused himself with boiling cockles all night +long. + +If I had previously any hopes of being enabled ultimately to push the +boat over the flats that were before us, a view of the channel at low +water, convinced me of the impracticability of any further attempt. The +water was so low that every shoal was exposed, and many stretched +directly from one side of the channel to the other; and, but for the +treacherous nature of the sand-banks, it would not have been difficult +to have walked over dry footed to the opposite side of it. The channel +stretched away to the E.S.E., to a distance of seven or eight miles, +when it appeared to turn south under a small sand-hill, upon which the +rays of the sun fell, as it was sinking behind us. + +CURIOUS EFFECT OF REFRACTION. + +There was an innumerable flock of wild-fowl arranged in rows along the +sides of the pools left by the tide, and we were again amused by the +singular effect of the refraction upon them, and the grotesque and +distorted forms they exhibited. Swans, pelicans, ducks, and geese, were +mingled together, and, according to their distance from us, presented +different appearances. Some were exceedingly tall and thin, others were +unnaturally broad. Some appeared reversed, or as if they were standing +on their heads, and the slightest motion, particularly the flapping of +their wings, produced a most ridiculous effect. No doubt, the situation +and the state of the atmosphere were favourable to the effect I have +described. The day had been fine, the evening was beautiful,--but it +was the rarefaction of the air immediately playing on the ground, and +not the haze at sunset that caused what I have noticed. It is distinct +from mirage, although it is difficult to point out the difference. The +one, however, distorts, the other conceals objects, and gives them a +false distance. The one is clear, the other is cloudy. The one raises +objects above their true position, the other does not. The one plays +about, the other is steady; but I cannot hope to give a proper idea +either of mirage or refraction so satisfactorily as I could wish. Many +travellers have dwelt upon their effects, particularly upon those of +the former, but few have attempted to account for them. + +Our situation was one of peculiar excitement and interest. To our right +the thunder of the heavy surf, that almost shook the ground beneath us, +broke with increasing roar upon our ears; to our left the voice of the +natives echoed through the brush, and the size of their fires at the +extremity of the channel, seemed to indicate the alarm our appearance +had occasioned. + +CRITICAL SITUATION OF THE PARTY. + +While the men were enjoying their cockles, a large kettle of which they +had boiled, M'Leay and I were anxiously employed in examining the state +of our provisions, and in ascertaining what still remained. Flour and +tea were the only articles we had left, so that the task was not a +difficult one. It appeared that we had not sufficient of either to last +us to Pondebadgery, at which place we expected to find supplies; and, +taking every thing into consideration, our circumstances were really +critical. + +The first view of Encounter Bay had convinced me that no vessel would +ever venture into it at a season when the S.W. winds prevailed. It was +impossible that we could remain upon the coast in expectation of the +relief that I doubted not had been hurried off for us; since +disappointment would have sealed our fate at once. In the deep bight in +which we were, I could not hope that any vessel would approach +sufficiently near to be seen by us. Our only chance of attracting +notice would have been by crossing the Ranges to the Gulf St. Vincent, +but the men had not strength to walk, and I hesitated to divide my +party in the presence of a determined and numerous enemy, who closely +watched our motions. Setting aside the generous feelings that had +prompted M'Leay to participate in every danger with me, and who I am +persuaded would have deeply felt a separation, my anxiety not only on +his account, but on account of the men I might leave in charge of the +boat, made me averse to this measure; the chance of any misfortune to +them involving in it the destruction of our boat and the loss of our +provisions. My anxiety of mind would have rendered me unfit for +exertion; yet so desirous was I of examining the ranges and the country +at their base, that I should, had our passage to the salt water been +uninterrupted, have determined on coasting it homewards, or of steering +for Launceston; and most assuredly, with my present experience, I would +rather incur the hazards of so desperate a step, than contend against +all the evils that beset us on out homeward journey. And the reader may +rest assured, I was as much without hopes of our eventual safety, as I +was astonished, at the close of our labours, to find that they had +terminated so happily. + +INSPECTION OF THE CHANNEL FROM THE LAKE TO THE OCEAN. + +Further exertion on the part of the men being out of the question, I +determined to remain no longer on the coast than to enable me to trace +the channel to its actual junction with the sea, and to ascertain the +features of the coast at that important point. I was reluctant to +exhaust the strength of the men in dragging the boat over the +numberless flats that were before us, and made up my mind to walk along +the shore until I should gain the outlet. I at length arranged that +M'Leay, I, and Fraser, should start on this excursion, at the earliest +dawn, leaving Harris and Hopkinson in charge of the camp; for as we +were to go towards the position of the natives, I thought it improbable +they would attack the camp without my being instantly aware of it. + +We had, as I have said, intended starting at the earliest dawn, but the +night was so clear and refreshing, and the moon so bright that we +determined to avail ourselves of both, and accordingly left the tents +at 3 a.m. I directed Harris to strike them at 8, and to have every +thing in readiness for our departure at that hour. We then commenced +our excursion, and I led my companions rapidly along the shore of +Encounter Bay, after crossing the sand-hills about a mile below the +camp. After a hasty and distressing walk of about seven miles, we found +that the sand-hills terminated, and a low beach spread before us. The +day was just breaking, and at the distance of a mile from us we saw the +sand-hill I have already had occasion to notice, and at about a quarter +of a mile from its base, we were checked by the channel; which, as I +rightly conjectured, being stopped in its easterly course by some +rising ground, the tongue of land on which the blacks were posted, +suddenly turns south, and, striking this sand-hill, immediately enters +the sea; and we noticed, in the bight under the rising ground, that the +natives had lit a chain of small fires. This was, most probably, a +detached party watching our movements, as they could, from where they +were posted, see our camp. + +At the time we arrived at the end of the channel, the tide had turned, +and was again setting in. The entrance appeared to me to be somewhat +less than a quarter of a mile in breadth. Under the sand-hill on the +off side, the water is deep and the current strong. No doubt, at high +tide, a part of the low beach we had traversed is covered. The mouth of +the channel is defended by a double line of breakers, amidst which, it +would be dangerous to venture, except in calm and summer weather; and +the line of foam is unbroken from one end of Encounter Bay to the +other. Thus were our fears of the impracticability and inutility of the +channel of communication between the lake and the ocean confirmed. + +DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS OF THE RETURN. + +I would fain have lingered on my way, to examine, as far as +circumstances would permit, the beautiful country between the lake and +the ranges; and it was with heart-felt sorrow that I yielded to +necessity. My men were indeed very weak from poverty of diet and from +great bodily fatigue. Hopkinson, Mulholland, and Macnamee were +miserably reduced. The two former, especially, had exerted themselves +beyond their strength, and although I am confident they would have +obeyed my orders to the last, I did not feel myself justified, +considering the gigantic task we had before us, to impose additional +labour upon them. + +It will be borne in mind that our difficulties were just about to +commence, when those of most other travellers have ceased; and that +instead of being assisted by the stream whose course we had followed, +we had now to contend against the united waters of the eastern ranges, +with diminished strength, and, in some measure, with disappointed +feelings. + +Under the most favourable circumstances, it was improbable that the men +would be enabled to pull for many days longer in succession; since they +had not rested upon their oars for a single day, if I except our +passage across the lake, from the moment when we started from the +depot; nor was it possible for me to buoy them up with the hope even of +a momentary cessation from labour. We had calculated the time to which +our supply of provisions would last under the most favourable +circumstances, and it was only in the event of our pulling up against +the current, day after day, the same distance we had compassed with the +current in our favour, that we could hope they would last us as long as +we continued in the Murray. But in the event of floods, or any +unforeseen delay, in was impossible to calculate at what moment we +might be driven to extremity. + +Independent of these casualties, there were other circumstances of +peril to be taken into consideration. As I have already observed, I +foresaw great danger in again running through the natives. I had every +reason to believe that many of the tribes with which we had +communicated on apparently friendly terms, regretted having allowed us +to pass unmolested; nor was I at all satisfied as to the treatment we +might receive from them, when unattended by the envoys who had once or +twice controlled their fury. Our best security, therefore, against the +attacks of the natives was celerity of movement; and the men themselves +seemed to be perfectly aware of the consequences of delay. Our +provisions, moreover, being calculated to last to a certain point only, +the slightest accident, the staving-in of the boat, or the rise of the +river, would inevitably be attended with calamity. To think of reducing +our rations of only three quarters of a pound of flour per diem, was +out of the question, or to hope that the men, with less sustenance than +that, would perform the work necessary to ensure their safety, would +have been unreasonable. It was better that our provisions should hold +out to a place from which we might abandon the boat with some prospect +of reaching by an effort a stock station, or the plain on which Robert +Harris was to await our return, than that they should be consumed +before the half of our homeward journey should be accomplished. Delay, +therefore, under our circumstances, would have been imprudent and +unjustifiable. + + +PATIENCE OF THE MEN--RE-ENTER THE MURRAY. + +On the other hand, it was sufficiently evident to me, that the men were +too much exhausted to perform the task that was before them without +assistance, and that it would be necessary both for M'Leay and myself, +to take our share of labour at the oars. The cheerfulness and +satisfaction that my young friend evinced at the opportunity that was +thus afforded him of making himself useful, and of relieving those +under him from some portion of their toil, at the same time that they +increased my sincere esteem for him, were nothing more than what I +expected from one who had endeavoured by every means in his power to +contribute to the success of that enterprise upon which he had +embarked. But although I have said thus much of the exhausted +condition of the men,--and ere these pages are concluded my readers +will feel satisfied as to the truth of my statement--I would by no +means be understood to say that they flagged for a moment, or that +a single murmur escaped them. No reluctance was visible, no complaint +was heard, but there was that in their aspect and appearance which +they could not hide, and which I could not mistake. My object in +dwelling so long upon this subject has been to point out our situation +and our feelings when we re-entered the Murray. The only circumstance +that appeared to be in our favour was the prevalence of the south-west +wind, by which I hoped we should be assisted in running up the first +broad reaches of that river. I could not but acknowledge the bounty +of that Providence, which had favoured us in our passage across +the lake, and I was led to hope that its merciful superintendance +would protect us from evil, and would silently direct us where human +foresight and prudence failed. We re-entered the river on the 13th +under as fair prospects as we would have desired. The gale which had +blown with such violence in the morning gradually abated, and a steady +breeze enabled us to pass our first encampment by availing ourselves +of it as long as day light continued. Both the valley and the river +showed to advantage as we approached them, and the scenery upon our +left (the proper right bank of the Murray) was really beautiful. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Valley of the Murray--Its character and capabilities--Laborious +progress up the river--Accident to the boat--Perilous collision with +the natives--Turbid current of the Rufus--Passage of the +Rapids--Assisted by the natives--Dangerous intercourse with +them--Re-enter the Morumbidgee--Verdant condition of its +banks--Nocturnal encounter with the natives--Interesting manifestation +of feeling in one family--Reach the spot where the party had embarked +on the river--Men begin to fail entirely--Determine to send two men +forward for relief--Their return--Excursion on horseback--Reach +Pondebadgery Plain, and meet the supplies from the colony--Cannibalism +of the natives--Return to Sydney--Concluding remarks. + + +VALLEY OF THE MURRAY. + +The valley of the Murray, at its entrance, cannot be less than four +miles in breadth. The river does not occupy the centre but inclines to +either side, according to its windings, and thus the flats are of +greater or less extent, according to the distance of the river from the +base of the hills. It is to be remarked, that the bottom of the valley +is extremely level, and extensively covered with reeds. From the latter +circumstance, one would be led to infer that these flats are subject to +overflow, and no doubt can exist as to the fact of their being, at +least partially, if not wholly, under water at times. A country in a +state of nature is, however, so different from one in a state of +cultivation, that it is hazardous to give an opinion as to its +practical availableness, if I may use such a term. I should, +undoubtedly, say the marshes of the Macquarie were frequently covered +with water, and that they were wholly unfit for any one purpose +whatever. It is evident from the marks of the reeds upon the banks, +that the flood covers them occasionally to the depth of three feet, and +the reeds are so densely embodied and so close to the river side that +the natives cannot walk along it. The reeds are the broad flag-reed +(arundo phragmatis), and grow on a stiff earthy loam, without any +accompanying vegetation; indeed, they form so solid a mass that the sun +cannot penetrate to the ground to nourish vegetation. On the other +hand, the valley of the Murray, though covered with reeds in most +places, is not so in all. There is no mark upon the reeds by which to +judge as to the height of inundation, neither are they of the same kind +as those which cover the marshes of the Macquarie. They are the species +of round reed of which the South-sea islanders make their arrows, and +stand sufficiently open, not only to allow of a passage through, but +for the abundant growth of grass among them. Still, I have no doubt +that parts of the valley are subject to flood; but, as I have already +remarked, I do not know whether these parts are either deeply or +frequently covered. Rain must fall simultaneously in the S.E. angle of +the island in the inter-tropical regions, and at the heads of all the +tributaries of the main stream, ere its effects can be felt in the +lower parts of the Murray. If the valley of the Murray is not subject +to flood, it has only recently gained a height above the influence of +the river, and still retains all the character of flooded land. In +either case, however, it contains land that is of the very richest +kind--soil that is the pure accumulation of vegetable matter, and is as +black as ebony. If its hundreds of thousands of acres were practically +available, I should not hesitate to pronounce it one of the richest +spots of equal extent on earth, and highly favoured in other respects. +How far it is available remains to be proved; and an opinion upon +either side would be hazardous, although that of its liability to flood +would, most probably, be nearest to truth. It is, however, certain that +any part of the valley would require much labour before it could be +brought under cultivation, and that even its most available spots would +require almost as much trouble to clear them as the forest tract, for +nothing is more difficult to destroy than reeds. Breaking the sod +would, naturally, raise the level of the ground, and lateral drains +would, most probably, carry off all floods, but then the latter, at +least, is the operation of an advanced stage of husbandry only. I +would, however, observe that there are many parts of the valley +decidedly above the reach of flood. I have, in the above observations, +been particularly alluding to the lowest and broadest portions of it. I +trust I shall be understood as not wishing to over-rate this discovery +on the one hand, or on the other, to include its whole extent in one +sweeping clause of condemnation. + +On the 14th, the wind still continued to blow fresh from the N.W. It +moderated at noon, and assisted us beyond measure. We passed our first +encampment, but did not see any natives. + +CORDIALITY OF THE NATIVES. + +On the 15th, the wind was variable at daylight, and a dense fog was on +the river. As the sun rose, it was dissipated and a light breeze sprung +up from W.S.W. We ran up the stream with a free sheet for six hours, +when we stopped for a short time to get the kettle boiled. Four natives +joined us, but with the exception of the lowest tribe upon the right +bank, we had not seen any number. We were extremely liberal to this +tribe, in consequence of the satisfaction they evinced at our return. +We had alarmed them much on our passage down the river by firing at a +snake that was swimming across it. We, at first, attempted to kill it +with the boat-hook, but the animal dived at our approach, and appeared +again at a considerable distance. Another such dive would have ensured +his escape, but a shot effectually checked him, and as the natives +evinced considerable alarm, we held him up, to show them the object of +our proceedings. On our return, they seemed to have forgotten their +fright, and received us with every demonstration of joy. The different +receptions we met with from different tribes are difficult to be +accounted for. + +The country appeared to rise before us, and looked more hilly to the +N.W. than I had supposed it to be. Several fine valleys branched off +from the main one to the westward, and, however barren the heights that +confined them were, I am inclined to think, that the distant interior +is fertile. The marks of kangaroos were numerous, and the absence of +the natives would indicate that they have other and better means of +subsisting in the back country than what the river affords. + +In the evening, we again ran on for two hours and a half, and reached +the first of the cliffs. + +On the 16th, we were again fortunate in the wind, and pressed up the +river as long as day-light continued. At the termination of our +journey, we found ourselves a day's journey in advance. This inspirited +the men, and they began to forget the labours they had gone through, as +well as those that were before them. + +On the 17th, we again commenced pulling, the wind being at north, and +contrary. It did not, however, remain in that quarter long, but backed +at noon to the S.W., so that we were enabled to make a good day's +journey, and rather gained than lost ground. + +REMARKABLE CLIFF--GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. + +Having left the undulating hills, at the mouth of the valley behind us, +we passed cliff after cliff of fossil formation: they had a uniform +appearance as to the substance of which they were composed, and varied +but little in colour. Having already examined them, we thought it +unnecessary to give them any further special attention, since it was +improbable we should find anything new. In turning an angle of the +river, however, a broad reach stretched away before us. An alluvial +flat extended to our left, and a high line of cliffs, that differed in +no visible respect from those we had already passed, rose over the +opposite side of the river. The cliffs faced the W.N.W., and as the sun +declined, his beams struck full upon them. As we shot past, we were +quite dazzled with the burst of light that flashed upon us, and which +gave to the whole face of the cliff the appearance of a splendid +mirror. The effect was of course momentary; for as soon as we had +passed the angle of refraction, there was nothing unusual in its +appearance. On a nearer approach, however, it appeared again as if +studded with stars. We had already determined on examining it more +closely, and this second peculiarity still further excited our +curiosity. On landing, we found the whole cliff to be a mass of +selenite, in which the various shells already noticed were plentifully +embedded, as in ice. The features of the cliff differed from any we had +previously remarked. Large masses, or blocks of square or oblong shape, +had fallen to its base, and its surface was hard, whereas the face of +the majority of the other cliffs was soft from the effect of the +atmosphere; and the rock was entirely free from every other substance, +excepting the shells of which it was composed. We of course collected +some good specimens, although they added very considerably to the +weight of our cargo. + +The morning of the 18th was calm and cloudless. The wind, of which +there was but little, came from the north, and was as usual warm. We +availed ourselves of a favourable spot to haul our boat on shore under +one of the cliffs upon the proper left of the river, and cleaned her +well both inside and out. + +LABORIOUS ASCENT OF THE BOAT. + +The breezes that had so much assisted as from the lake upwards, had now +lost their influence, or failed to reach to the distance we had gained. +Calms succeeded them, and obliged us to labour continually at the oars. +We lost ground fast, and it was astonishing to remark how soon the +men's spirits drooped again under their first efforts. They fancied the +boat pulled heavily, and that her bottom was foul; but such was not the +case. The current was not so strong as when we passed down, since the +river had evidently fallen more than a foot, and was so shallow in +several places, that we were obliged to haul the boat over them. On +these occasions we were necessarily obliged to get out of her into the +water, and had afterwards to sit still and to allow the sun to dry our +clothes upon us. The unemployed consequently envied those at the oars, +as they sat shivering in their dripping clothes. I was aware that it +was more from imagination than reality, that the men fancied the boat +was unusually heavy, but I hesitated not in humouring them, and rather +entered into their ideas than otherwise, and endeavoured to persuade +them that she pulled the lighter for the cleaning we gave her. + +A tribe of natives joined us, and we had the additional trouble of +guarding our stores. They were, however, very quiet, and as we had +broken up our casks, on leaving the coast, we were enabled to be +liberal in our presents of iron hoop, which they eagerly received. We +calculated that we should reach the principal junction in about fifteen +days from this place. + +NATIVE BURIAL-PLACE. + +The natives left us to pursue our solitary journey as soon as the boat +was reloaded. Not one of them had the curiosity to follow us, nor did +they appear to think it necessary that we should be attended by envoys. +We stopped for the night upon the left bank; and close to a +burial-ground that differed from any I had ever seen. It must have been +used many years, from the number of bones that were found in the bank, +but there were no other indications of such a place either by mounds or +by marks on the trees. The fact, therefore, is a singular one. I have +thought that some battle might have been fought near the place, but I +can hardly think one of their battles could have been so destructive. + +IMPEDED BY SHOALS. + +We had now only to make the best of our journey, rising at dawn, and +pulling to seven and often to nine o'clock. I allowed the men an hour +from half-past eleven to half-past twelve, to take their bread and +water. This was our only fare, if I except an occasional wild duck; but +these birds were extremely difficult to kill, and it cost us so much +time, that we seldom endeavoured to procure any. Our dogs had been of +no great use, and were now too weak to have run after anything if they +had seen either kangaroos or emus; and for the fish, the men loathed +them, and were either too indifferent or too much fatigued to set the +night-lines. Shoals frequently impeded us as we proceeded up the river, +and we passed some rapids that called for our whole strength to stem. A +light wind assisted us on two or three of these occasions, and I never +failed hoisting the sail at every fitting opportunity. In some parts +the river was extremely shallow, and the sand-banks of amazing size; +and the annoyance of dragging the boat over these occasional bars, was +very great. We passed several tribes of blacks on the 19th and 20th; +but did not stop to communicate with them. + +I believe I have already mentioned that shortly after we first entered +the Murray, flocks of a new paroquet passed over our heads, apparently +emigrating to the N.W. They always kept too high to be fired at, but on +our return, hereabouts, we succeeded in killing one. It made a good +addition to our scanty stock of subjects of natural history. It is +impossible to conceive how few of the feathered tribe frequent these +distant and lonely regions. The common white cockatoo is the most +numerous, and there are also a few pigeons; but other birds descend +only for water, and are soon again upon the wing. Our botanical +specimens were as scanty as our zoological, indeed the expedition may, +as regards these two particulars, almost be said to have been +unproductive. + +COMPILATION OF THE CHART. + +When we came down the river, I thought it advisable to lay its course +down as precisely as circumstances would permit: for for this purpose I +had a large compass always before me, and a sheet of foolscap paper. As +soon as we passed an angle of the river, I took the bearings of the +reach before us, and as we proceeded down it, marked off the +description of country, and any remarkable feature. The consequence +was, that I laid down every bend of the Murray River, from the +Morumbidgee downwards. Its creeks, its tributaries, its flats, its +valleys, and its cliffs, and, as far as I possibly could do, the nature +of the distant interior. This chart was, of course, erroneous in many +particulars, since I had to judge the length of the reaches of the +river, and the extent of its angles, but I corrected it on the scale of +the miles of latitude we made during the day, which brought out an +approximate truth at all events. The hurried nature of our journey +would not allow me to do more; and it will be remembered that my +observations were all siderial, by reason that the sextant would not +embrace the sun in his almost vertical position at noon. Admitting, +however, the imperfection of this chart, it was of inconceivable value +and comfort to us on our return, for, by a reference to it, we +discovered our place upon the river, and our distance from our several +encampments. And we should often have stopped short of them had not the +chart shown us that a few reaches more would bring us to the desired +spots. It cheered the men to know where they were, and gave them +conversation. To myself it was very satisfactory, as it enabled me to +prepare for our meetings with the larger tribes, and to steer clear of +obstacles in the more difficult navigation of some parts of the stream. + +On the 21st, by dint of great labour we reached our camp of the 2nd +February, from which it will be remembered the Murray took up a +southerly course, and from which we likewise obtained a first view of +the coast ranges. The journey to the sea and back again, had +consequently occupied us twenty days. From this point we turned our +boat's head homewards; we made it, therefore, a fixed position among +the stages into which we divided our journey. Our attention was now +directed to the junction of the principal tributary, which we hoped to +reach in twelve days, and anticipated a close to our labours on the +Murray in eight days more from that stage to the Morumbidgee. + +CURRENT OF THE MURRAY. + +The current in the Murray from the lake, to within a short distance of +this singular turn in it, is weak, since its bed is almost on a level +with the lake. The channel, which, at the termination, is somewhat more +than the third of a mile across, gradually diminishes in breadth, as +the interior is gained, but is nowhere under 300 yards; while its depth +averages from eighteen to thirty feet, within a foot of the very bank. +The river might, therefore, be navigated by boats of considerable +burden, if the lake admitted of the same facility; but I am decidedly +of opinion, that the latter is generally shallow, and that it will, in +the course of years, be filled up by depositions. It is not, however, +an estuary in any sense of the word, since no part of it is exposed at +low water, excepting the flats in the channel, and the flat between the +lake and the sea. + +ACCIDENT TO THE BOAT. + +On the 23rd, we stove the boat in for the first time. I had all along +anticipated such an accident, from the difficulty of avoiding +obstacles, in consequence of the turbid state of the river. Fortunately +the boat struck a rotten log. The piece remained in her side, and +prevented her filling, which she must, otherwise, inevitably have done, +ere we could have reached the shore. As it was, however, we escaped +with a little damage to the lower bags of flour only. She was hauled up +on a sand bank, and Clayton repaired her in less than two hours, when +we reloaded her and pursued our journey. It was impossible to have been +more cautious than we were, for I was satisfied as to the fate that +would have overtaken the whole of us in the event of our losing the +boat, and was proportionably vigilant. + +MOLESTED BY THE NATIVES. + +At half-past five we came to an island, which looked so inviting, and +so quiet, that I determined to land and sleep upon it. We consequently, +ran the boat into a little recess, or bay, and pitched the tents; and I +anticipated a respite from the presence of any natives, as did the men, +who were rejoiced at my having taken up so snug a berth. It happened, +however, that a little after sunset, a flight of the new paroquets +perched in the lofty trees that grew on the island, to roost; when we +immediately commenced the work of death, and succeeded in killing eight +or ten. The reports of our guns were heard by some natives up the +river, and several came over to us. Although I was annoyed at their +having discovered our retreat, they were too few to be troublesome. +During the night, however, they were joined by fresh numbers, amounting +in all to about eighty, and they were so clamorous, that it was +impossible to sleep. + +NATIVES BECOME TROUBLESOME. + +As the morning broke, Hopkinson came to inform me that it was in vain +that the guard endeavoured to prevent them from handling every thing, +and from closing in round our camp. I went out, and from what I saw I +thought it advisable to double the sentries. M'Leay, who was really +tired, being unable to close his eyes amid such a din, got up in +ill-humour, and went to see into the cause, and to check it if he +could. This, however, was impossible. One man was particularly forward +and insolent, at whom M'Leay, rather imprudently, threw a piece of +dirt. The savage returned the compliment with as much good will as it +had been given, and appeared quite prepared to act on the offensive. At +this critical moment my servant came to the tent in which I was washing +myself, and stated his fears that we should soon come to blows, as the +natives showed every disposition to resist us. On learning what had +passed between M'Leay and the savage, I pretended to be equally angry +with both, and with some difficulty forced the greater part of the +blacks away from the tents. I then directed the men to gather together +all the minor articles in the first instance, and then to strike the +tents; and, in order to check the natives, I drew a line round the +camp, over which I intimated to them they should not pass. Observing, I +suppose, that we were on our guard, and that I, whom they well knew to +be the chief, was really angry, they crept away one by one, until the +island was almost deserted by them. Why they did not attack us, I know +not, for they had certainly every disposition to do so, and had their +shorter weapons with them, which, in so confined a space as that on +which we were, would have been more fatal than their spears. + +They left us, however; and a flight of red-crested cockatoos happening +to settle on a plain near the river, I crossed in the boat in order to +shoot one. The plain was upon the proper left bank of the Murray. The +natives had passed over to the right. As the one channel was too +shallow for the boat, when we again pursued our journey we were obliged +to pull round to the left side of the island. A little above it the +river makes a bend to the left, and the angle at this bend was occupied +by a large shoal, one point of which rested on the upper part of the +island, and the other touched the proper right bank of the river. Thus +a narrow channel, (not broader indeed than was necessary for the play +of our oars,) alone remained for us to pass up against a strong +current. On turning round the lower part of the island, we observed +that the natives occupied the whole extent of the shoal, and speckled +it over like skirmishers. Many of them had their spears, and their +attention was evidently directed to us.--As we neared the shoal, the +most forward of them pressed close to the edge of the deep water, so +much so that our oars struck their legs. Still this did not induce them +to retire. I kept my eye on an elderly man who stood one of the most +forward, and who motioned to us several times to stop, and at length +threw the weapon he carried at the boat. I immediately jumped up and +pointed my gun at him to his great apparent alarm. Whether the natives +hoped to intimidate us by a show of numbers, or what immediate object +they had in view, it is difficult to say; though it was most probably +to seize a fitting opportunity to attack us. Seeing, I suppose, that we +were not to be checked, they crossed from the shoal to the proper right +bank of the river, and disappeared among the reeds that lined it. + +TREACHERY OF THE NATIVES. + +Shortly after this, eight of the women, whom we had not before noticed, +came down to the water side, and gave us the most pressing invitation +to land. Indeed they played their part uncommonly well, and tried for +some time to allure us by the most unequivocal manifestations of love. +Hopkinson however who always had his eyes about him, observed the +spears of the men among the reeds. They kept abreast of us as we pulled +up the stream, and, no doubt, were anticipating our inability to resist +the temptations they had thrown in our way. I was really provoked at +their barefaced treachery, and should most undoubtedly have attacked +them, had they not precipitately retreated on being warned by the women +that I was arming my men, which I had only now done upon seeing such +strong manifestations of danger. M'Leay set the example of coolness on +this occasion; and I had some doubts whether I was justified in +allowing the natives to escape with impunity, considering that if they +had wounded any one of us the most melancholy and fatal results would +have ensued. + +We did not see anything more of the blacks during the rest of the day, +but the repeated indications of hostility we perceived as we approached +the Darling, made me apprehensive as to the reception we should meet +from its numerous population; and I was sorry to observe that the men +anticipated danger in passing that promising junction. + +Having left the sea breezes behind us, the weather had become +oppressive; and as the current was stronger, and rapids more numerous, +our labour was proportionably increased. We perspired to an astonishing +degree, and gave up our oars after our turn at them, with shirts and +clothes as wet as if we had been in the water. Indeed Mulholland and +Hopkinson, who worked hard, poured a considerable quantity of +perspiration from their shoes after their task. The evil of this was +that we were always chilled after rowing, and, of course, suffered more +than we should otherwise have done. + +RE-PASS THE LINDESAY. + +On the 25th we passed the last of the cliffs composing the great fossil +bed through which the Murray flows, and entered that low country +already described as being immediately above it. On a more attentive +examination of the distant interior, my opinion as to its flooded +origin was confirmed, more especially in reference to the country to +the S.E. On the 30th we passed the mouth of the Lindesay, and from the +summit of the sand hills to the north of the Murray overlooked the flat +country, through which I conclude it must run, from the line of fires +we observed amid the trees, and most probably upon its banks. + +We did not fall in with the natives in such numbers as when we passed +down to the coast: still they were in sufficient bodies to be +troublesome. It would, however, appear that the tribes do not generally +frequent the river. They must have a better country back from it, and +most probably linger amongst the lagoons and creeks where food is more +abundant. The fact is evident from the want of huts upon the banks of +the Murray, and the narrowness of the paths along its margin. + +RE-PASSED THE RUFUS. + +We experienced the most oppressive heat about this time. Calms +generally prevailed, and about 3 p.m. the sun's rays fell upon us with +intense effect. The waters of the Murray continued extremely muddy, a +circumstance we discovered to be owing to the turbid current of the +Rufus, which we passed on the 1st of March. It is, really, singular +whence this little stream originates. It will be remembered that I +concluded it must have been swollen by rains when we first saw it; yet, +after an absence of more than three weeks we found it discharging its +waters as muddy as ever into the main stream; and that, too, in such +quantities as to discolour its waters to the very lake. The reader will +have some idea of the force of the current in both, when I assure him +that for nearly fifty yards below the mouth of the Rufus, the waters of +the Murray preserve their transparency, and the line between them and +the turbid waters of its tributary was as distinctly marked as if drawn +by a pencil. Indeed, the higher we advanced, the more did we feel the +strength of the current, against which we had to pull. + +DIFFICULTIES AT THE RAPIDS. + +A little below the Lindesay, a rapid occurs. It was with the utmost +difficulty that we stemmed it with the four oars upon the boat, and the +exertion of our whole strength. We remained, at one time, perfectly +stationary, the force we employed and that of the current being equal. +We at length ran up the stream obliquely; but it was evident the men +were not adequate to such exertion for any length of time. We pulled +that day for eleven successive hours, in order to avoid a tribe of +natives who followed us. Hopkinson and Fraser fell asleep at their +oars, and even the heavy Clayton appeared to labour. + +We again occupied our camp under the first remarkable cliffs of the +Murray, a description of which has been given in page 128 of this work. +[GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATION.] Their summit, as I have already remarked +forms a table land of some elevation. From it the distant interior to +the S.S.E. appears very depressed; that to the north undulates more. In +neither quarter, however, does any bright foliage meet the eye, to tell +that a better soil is under it; but a dark and gloomy vegetation +occupies both the near and distant ground, in proof that the sandy +sterile tracts, succeeding the river deposits, stretch far away without +a change. + +A little above our camp of the 28th of January, we fell in with a large +tribe of natives, whose anxiety to detain us was remarkable. The wind, +however, which, from the time we lost the sea breezes, had hung to the +S.E., had changed to the S.W., and we were eagerly availing ourselves +of it. It will not be supposed we stopped even for a moment. In truth +we pressed on with great success, and did not land to sleep until nine +o'clock. As long as the wind blew from the S.W., the days were cool, +and the sky overcast even so much so as to threaten rain. + +The least circumstance, in our critical situation, naturally raised my +apprehensions, and I feared the river would be swollen in the event of +any heavy rains in the hilly country; I hoped, however, we should gain +the Morumbidgee before such a calamity should happen to us, and it +became my object to press for that river without delay. + +OBSTACLES TO THE NAVIGATION--DANGEROUS RAPIDS. + +Although we had met with frequent rapids in our progress upwards, they +had not been of a serious kind, nor such as would affect the navigation +of the river. The first direct obstacle of this kind occurs a little +above a small tributary that falls into the Murray from the north, +between the Rufus and the cliffs we have alluded to. At this place a +reef of coarse grit contracts the channel of the river. No force we +could have exerted with the oars would have taken us up this rapid; but +we accomplished the task easily by means of a rope which we hauled +upon, on the same principle that barges are dragged by horses along the +canals. + +As we neared the junction of the two main streams, the country, on both +sides of the river, became low, and its general appearance confirmed +the opinion I have already given as to its flooded origin. The clouds +that obscured the sky, and had threatened to burst for some time, at +length gave way, and we experienced two or three days of heavy rain. In +the midst of it we passed the second stage of our journey, and found +the spot lately so crowded with inhabitants totally deserted. A little +above it we surprised a small tribe in a temporary shelter; but neither +our offers nor presents could prevail on any of them to expose +themselves to the torrent that was falling. They sat shivering in their +bark huts in evident astonishment at our indifference. We threw them +some trifling presents and were glad to proceed unattended by any of +them. + +PERILOUS ASCENT OF THE RAPIDS. + +It will be remembered that in passing down the river, the boat was +placed in some danger in descending a rapid before we reached the +junction of the Murray with the stream supposed by me to be the +Darling. We were now gradually approaching the rapid, nor did I well +know how we should surmount such an obstacle. Strength to pull up it we +had not, and I feared our ropes would not be long enough to reach to +the shore over some of the rocks, since it descended in minor +declivities to a considerable distance below the principal rapid, in +the centre of which the boat had struck. We reached the commencement of +these rapids on the 6th, and ascended the first by means of ropes, +which were hauled upon by three of the men from the bank; and, as the +day was pretty far advanced, we stopped a little above it, that we +might attempt the principal rapid before we should be exhausted by +previous exertion. It was fortunate that we took such a precaution. The +morning of the 7th proved extremely dark, and much rain fell. We +commenced our journey in the midst of it, and soon gained the tail of +the rapid. Our attempt to pull up it completely failed. The boat, as +soon as she entered the ripple, spun round like a toy, and away we went +with the stream. As I had anticipated, our ropes were too short; and it +only remained for us to get into the water, and haul the boat up by +main force. We managed pretty well at first, and drew her alongside a +rock to rest a little. We then recommenced our efforts, and had got +into the middle of the channel. We were up to our armpits in the water, +and only kept our position by means of rocks beside us. The rain was +falling, as if we were in a tropical shower, and the force of the +current was such, that if we had relaxed for an instant, we should have +lost all the ground we had gained. Just at this moment, however, +without our being aware of their approach, a large tribe of natives, +with their spears, lined the bank, and took us most completely by +surprise. At no time during this anxious journey were we ever so +completely in their power, or in so defenceless a situation. It rained +so hard, that our firelocks would have been of no use, and had they +attacked us, we must necessarily have been slaughtered without +committing the least execution upon them. Nothing, therefore, remained +for us but to continue our exertions. It required only one strong +effort to get the boat into still water for a time, but that effort was +beyond our strength, and we stood in the stream, powerless and +exhausted. + +ASSISTED BY THE NATIVES. + +The natives, in the meanwhile, resting on their spears, watched us with +earnest attention. One of them, who was sitting close to the water, at +length called to us, and we immediately recognised the deep voice of +him to whose singular interference we were indebted for our escape on +the 23rd of January. I desired Hopkinson to swim over to him, and to +explain that we wanted assistance. This was given without hesitation; +and we at length got under the lea of the rock, which I have already +described as being in the centre of the river. The natives launched +their bark canoes, the only frail means they possess of crossing the +rivers with their children. These canoes are of the simplest +construction and rudest materials, being formed of an oblong piece of +bark, the ends of which are stuffed with clay, so as to render them +impervious to the water. With several of these they now paddled round +us with the greatest care, making their spears, about ten feet in +length,(which they use at once as poles and paddles,) bend nearly +double in the water. We had still the most difficult part of the rapid +to ascend, where the rush of water was the strongest, and where the +decline of the bed almost amounted to a fall. Here the blacks could be +of no use to us. No man could stem the current, supposing it to have +been shallow at the place, but it was on the contrary extremely deep. +Remaining myself in the boat, I directed all the men to land, after we +had crossed the stream, upon a large rock that formed the left buttress +as it were to this sluice, and, fastening the rope to the mast instead +of her head, they pulled upon it. The unexpected rapidity with which +the boat shot up the passage astonished me, and filled the natives with +wonder, who testified their admiration of so dextrous a manoeuvre, by a +loud shout. + +It will, no doubt, have struck the reader as something very remarkable, +that the same influential savage to whom we had already been indebted, +should have been present on this occasion, and at a moment when we so +much needed his assistance. Having surmounted our difficulties, we took +leave of this remarkable man, and pursued our journey up the river. + +It may be imagined we did not proceed very far; the fact was, we only +pushed forward to get rid of the natives, for, however pacific, they +were always troublesome, and we were seldom fitted for a trial of +temper after the labours of the day were concluded. The men had various +occupations in which, when the natives were present, they were +constantly interrupted, and whenever the larger tribes slept near us, +the utmost vigilance was necessary on the part of the night-guard, +which was regularly mounted as soon as the tents were pitched. We had +had little else than our flour to subsist on. Hopkinson and Harris +endeavoured to supply M'Leay and myself with a wild fowl occasionally, +but for themselves, and the other men, nothing could be procured to +render their meal more palatable. + +GOOD CONDUCT OF THE MEN. + +I have omitted to mention one remarkable trait of the good disposition +of all the men while on the coast. Our sugar had held out to that +point; but it appeared, when we examined the stores, that six pounds +alone remained in the cask. This the men positively refused to touch. +They said that, divided, it would benefit nobody; that they hoped +M'Leay and I would use it, that it would last us for some time, and +that they were better able to submit to privations than we were. The +feeling did them infinite credit, and the circumstance is not forgotten +by me. The little supply the kindness of our men left to us was, +however, soon exhausted, and poor M'Leay preferred pure water to the +bitter draught that remained. I have been some times unable to refrain +from smiling, as I watched the distorted countenances of my humble +companions while drinking their tea and eating their damper. + +The ducks and swans, seen in such myriads on the lake, seldom appeared +on the river, in the first stages of our journey homewards. About the +time of which I am writing, however, a few swans occasionally flew over +our heads at night, and their silvery note was musically sweet. + +From the 10th to the 15th, nothing of moment occurred: we pulled +regularly from day-light to dark, not less to avoid the natives than to +shorten our journey. Yet, notwithstanding that we moved at an hour when +the natives seldom stir, we were rarely without a party of them, who +followed us in spite of our efforts to tire them out. + +MOLESTED BY NATIVES. + +On the 15th, we had about 150 at our camp. Many of them were extremely +noisy, and the whole of them very restless. They lay down close to the +tents, or around our fire. I entertained some suspicion of them, and +when they were apparently asleep, I watched them narrowly. Macnamee was +walking up and down with his firelock, and every time he turned his +back, one of the natives rose gently up and poised his spear at him, +and as soon as he thought Macnamee was about to turn, he dropped as +quietly into his place. When I say the native got up, I do not mean +that he stood up, but that he raised himself sufficiently for the +purpose he had in view. His spear would not, therefore, have gone with +much force, but I determined it should not quit his hand, for had I +observed any actual attempt to throw it, I should unquestionably have +shot him dead upon the spot. The whole of the natives were awake, and +it surprised me they did not attempt to plunder us. They rose with the +earliest dawn, and crowded round the tents without any hesitation. We, +consequently, thought it prudent to start as soon as we had breakfasted. + +FRASER IN DANGER. + +We had all of us got into the boat, when Fraser remembered he had left +his powder-horn on shore. In getting out to fetch it, he had to push +through the natives. On his return, when his back was towards them, +several natives lifted their spears together, and I was so apprehensive +they would have transfixed him, that I called out before I seized my +gun; on which they lowered their weapons and ran away. The disposition +to commit personal violence was evident from these repeated acts of +treachery; and we should doubtless have suffered from it on some +occasion or other, had we not been constantly on the alert. + +We had been drawing nearer the Morumbidgee every day. This was the last +tribe we saw on the Murray; and the following afternoon, to our great +joy, we quitted it and turned our boat into the gloomy and narrow +channel of its tributary. Our feelings were almost as strong when we +re-entered it, as they had been when we were launched from it into that +river, on whose waters we had continued for upwards of fifty-five days; +during which period, including the sweeps and bends it made, we could +not have travelled less than 1500 miles. + +Our provisions were now running very short; we had, however, "broken +the neck of our journey," as the men said, and we looked anxiously to +gaining the depot; for we were not without hopes that Robert Harris +would have pushed forward to it with his supplies. We were quite +puzzled on entering the Morumbidgee, how to navigate its diminutive +bends and its encumbered channel. I thought poles would have been more +convenient than oars; we therefore stopped at an earlier hour than +usual to cut some. Calling to mind the robbery practised on us shortly +after we left the depot, my mind became uneasy as to Robert Harris's +safety, since I thought it probable, from the sulky disposition of the +natives who had visited us there, that he might have been attacked. +Thus, when my apprehensions on our own account had partly ceased, my +fears became excited with regard to him and his party. + +RE-ENTER THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +The country, to a considerable distance from the junction on either +side the Morumbidgee, is not subject to inundation. Wherever we landed +upon its banks, we found the calistemma in full flower, and in the +richest profusion. There was, also, an abundance of grass, where before +there had been no signs of vegetation, and those spots which we had +condemned as barren were now clothed with a green and luxuriant carpet. +So difficult is it to judge of a country on a partial and hurried +survey, and so differently does it appear at different periods. I was +rejoiced to find that the rains had not swollen the river, for I was +apprehensive that heavy falls had taken place in the mountains, and was +unprepared for so much good fortune. + +FEAST ON A SWAN. + +The poles we cut were of no great use to us, and we soon laid them +aside, and took to our oars. Fortune seemed to favour us exceedingly. +The men rallied, and we succeeded in killing a good fat swan, that +served as a feast for all. I imagine the absence of mud and weeds of +every kind in the Murray, prevents this bird from frequenting its +waters. + +On the 18th, we found ourselves entering the reedy country, through +which we had passed with such doubt and anxiety. Every object elicited +some remark from the men, and I was sorry to find they reckoned with +certainty on seeing Harris at the depot, as I knew they would be +proportionally depressed in spirits if disappointed. However, I +promised Clayton a good repast as soon as we should see him. + +LOSE ONE OF OUR DOGS. + +I had walked out with M'Leay a short distance from the river, and had +taken the dogs. They followed us to the camp on our return to it, but +the moment they saw us enter the tent, they went off to hunt by +themselves. About 10 p.m., one of them, Bob, came to the fire, and +appeared very uneasy; he remained, for a short time, and then went +away. In about an hour, he returned, and after exhibiting the same +restlessness, again withdrew. He returned the third time before morning +dawned, but returned alone. The men on the watch were very stupid not +to have followed him, for, no doubt, he went to his companion, to whom, +most likely, some accident had happened. I tried to make him show, but +could not succeed, and, after a long search, reluctantly pursued our +journey, leaving poor Sailor to his fate. This was the only misfortune +that befell us, and we each of us felt the loss of an animal which had +participated in all our dangers and privations. I more especially +regretted the circumstance for the sake of the gentleman who gave him +to me, and, on account of his superior size and activity. + +ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES. + +With the loss of poor Sailor, our misfortunes re-commenced. I +anticipated some trouble hereabouts, for, having succeeded in their +hardihood once, I knew the natives would again attempt to rob us, and +that we should have some difficulty in keeping them off. As soon as +they found out that we were in the river, they came to us, but left us +at sunset. This was on the 21st. At nightfall, I desired the watch to +keep a good look out, and M'Leay and I went to lie down. We had chosen +an elevated bank for our position, and immediately opposite to us there +was a small space covered with reeds, under blue-gum trees. About 11, +Hopkinson came to the tent to say, that he was sure the blacks were +approaching through the reeds. M'Leay and I got up, and, standing on +the bank, listened attentively. All we heard was the bark of a native +dog apparently, but this was, in fact, a deception on the part of the +blacks. We made no noise, in consequence of which they gradually +approached, and two or three crept behind the trunk of a tree that had +fallen. As I thought they were near enough, George M'Leay, by my +desire, fired a charge of small shot at them. They instantly made a +precipitate retreat; but, in order the more effectually to alarm them, +Hopkinson fired a ball into the reeds, which we distinctly heard +cutting its way through them. All was quiet until about three o'clock, +when a poor wretch who, most probably, had thrown himself on the ground +when the shots were fired, at length mustered courage to get up and +effect his escape. + +In the morning, the tribe kept aloof, but endeavoured, by the most +earnest entreaties, and most pitiable howling, to gain our favour; but +I threatened to shoot any that approached, and they consequently kept +at a respectful distance, dogging us from tree to tree. It appeared, +therefore, that they were determined to keep us in view, no doubt, with +the intention of trying what they could do by a second attempt. As they +went along, their numbers increased, and towards evening, they amounted +to a strong tribe. Still they did not venture near us, and only now and +then showed themselves. Our situation at this moment would have been +much more awkward in the event of attack, than when we were in the open +channel of the Murray; because we were quite at the mercy of the +natives if they had closed upon us, and, being directly under the +banks, should have received every spear, while it would have been easy +for them to have kept out of sight in assailing us. + +APPARENT OBSTRUCTION OF THE CHANNEL. + +It was near sunset, the men were tired, and I was looking out for a +convenient place at which to rest, intending to punish these natives if +they provoked me, or annoyed the men. We had not seen any of them for +some time, when Hopkinson, who was standing in the bow of the boat, +informed me that they had thrown boughs across the river to prevent our +passage. I was exceedingly indignant at this, and pushed on, intending +to force the barrier. On our nearer approach, a solitary black was +observed standing close to the river, and abreast of the impediment +which I imagined they had raised to our further progress. I threatened +to shoot this man, and pointed to the branches that stretched right +across the stream. The poor fellow uttered not a word, but, putting his +hand behind him, pulled out a tomahawk from his belt, and held it +towards me, by way of claiming our acquaintance; and any anger was soon +entirely appeased by discovering that the natives had been merely +setting a net across the river which these branches supported. We, +consequently, hung back, until they had drawn it, and then passed on. + +MANOEUVRES OF THE NATIVES TO ROB THE BOAT AT NIGHT. + +The black to whom I had spoken so roughly, cut across a bight of the +river, and walking down to the side of the water with a branch in his +hand, in mark of confidence, presented me with a fishing net. We were +highly pleased at the frank conduct of this black, and a convenient +place offering itself, we landed and pitched our tents. Our friend, who +was about forty, brought his two wives, and a young man, to us: and at +length the other blacks mustered courage to approach; but those who had +followed us from the last camp, kept on the other side of the river. On +pretence of being different families, they separated into small bodies, +and formed a regular cordon round our camp. We foresaw that this was a +manoeuvre, but, in hopes that if I forgave the past they would desist +from further attempts, M'Leay took great pains in conciliating them, +and treated them with great kindness. We gave each family some fire and +same presents, and walked together to them by turns, to show that we +had equal confidence in all. Our friend had posted himself immediately +behind our tents, at twenty yards distance, with his little family, and +kept altogether aloof from the other natives. Having made our round of +visits, and examined the various modes the women had of netting, M'Leay +and I went into our tent. + +It happened, fortunately, that my servant, Harris, was the first for +sentry. I told him to keep a watchful eye on the natives, and to call +me if any thing unusual occurred. We had again chosen a lofty bank for +our position; behind us there was a small plain, of about a quarter of +a mile in breadth, backed by a wood. I was almost asleep, when my +servant came to inform me, that the blacks had, with one accord, made a +precipitate retreat, and that not one of them was to be seen at the +fires. I impressed the necessity of attention upon him, and he again +went to his post. Shortly after this, he returned: "Master," said he, +"the natives are coming." I jumped up, and, taking my gun, followed +him, leaving my friend George fast asleep. I would not disturb him, +until necessity required, for he had ever shown himself so devoted to +duty as to deserve every consideration. Harris led me a little way from +the tents, and then stopping, and pointing down the river, said, +"There, sir, don't you see them?" "Not I, indeed, Harris," I replied, +"where do you mean? are you sure you see them?" "Positive, sir," said +he; "stoop and you will see them." I did so, and saw a black mass in an +opening. Convinced that I saw them, I desired Harris to follow me, but +not to fire unless I should give the word. The rascals would not stand +our charge, however, but retreated as we advanced towards them. We then +returned to the tents, and, commending my servant for his vigilance, I +once more threw myself on my bed. I had scarcely lain down five +minutes, when Harris called out, "The blacks are close to me, sir; +shall I fire at them?" "How far are they?" I asked. "Within ten yards, +sir." "Then fire," said I; and immediately he did so. M'Leay and I +jumped up to his assistance. "Well, Harris," said I, "did you kill your +man?" (he is a remarkably good shot.) "No, sir," said he, "I thought +you would repent it, so I fired between the two." "Where were they, +man?" said I. "Close to the boat, sir; and when they heard me, they +swam into the river, and dived as soon as I fired between them." This +account was verified by one of them puffing as he rose below us, over +whose head I fired a shot. Where the other got to I could not tell. +This watchfulness, on our part, however, prevented any further attempts +during the night. + +I was much pleased at the coolness of my servant, as well as his +consideration; and relieving him from his post, desired Hopkinson to +take it. I have no doubt that the approach of the natives, in the first +instance, was made with a view to draw us off from the camp, while some +others might rob the boat. If so, it was a good manoeuvre, and might +have succeeded. + +NATIVES DESERT THEIR WEAPONS--INGENUOUS CONDUCT OF A NATIVE. + +In the morning, we found the natives had left all their ponderous +spears at their fires, which were broken up and burnt. We were +surprised to find that our friend had left every thing in like manner +behind him--his spears, his nets, and his tomahawk; but as he had kept +so wholly aloof from the other blacks, I thought it highly improbable +that he had joined them, and the men were of opinion that he had +retreated across the plain into the wood. On looking in that direction +we observed some smoke rising among the trees at a little distance from +the outskirts of the plain, and under an impression that I should find +the native at the fire with his family, I took his spears and tomahawk, +and walked across the plain, unattended into the wood. I had not +entered it more than fifty yards when I saw a group of four natives, +sitting round a small fire. One of them, as I approached, rose up and +met me, and in him I recognised the man for whom I was seeking. When +near enough, I stuck the spears upright into the ground. The poor man +stood thunderstruck; he spoke not, he moved not, neither did he raise +his eyes from the ground. I had kept the tomahawk out of his sight, but +I now produced and offered it to him. He gave a short exclamation as +his eyes caught sight of it, but he remained otherwise silent before +me, and refused to grasp the tomahawk, which accordingly fell to the +ground. I had evidently excited the man's feelings, but it is difficult +to say how he was affected. His manner indicated shame and surprise, +and the sequel will prove that both these feelings must have possessed +him. While we were thus standing together, his two wives came up, to +whom, after pointing to the spears and tomahawk, he said something, +without, however, looking at me; and they both instantly burst into +tears and wept aloud. I was really embarrassed during so unexpected a +scene, and to break it, invited the native to the camp, but I motioned +with my hand, as I had not my gun with me, that I would shoot any other +of the blacks who followed me. He distinctly understood my meaning, and +intimated as distinctly to me that they should not follow us; nor did +they. We were never again molested by them. + +I left him then, and, returning to the camp, told M'Leay my adventure, +with which he was highly delighted. My object is this procedure was to +convince the natives, generally, that we came not among them to injure +or to molest them, as well as to impress them with an idea of our +superior intelligence; and I am led to indulge the hope that I +succeeded. Certain it is, that an act of justice or of lenity has +frequently, if well timed, more weight than the utmost stretch of +severity. With savages, more particularly, to exhibit any fear, +distrust, or irresolution, will inevitably prove injurious. + +But although these adventures were happily not attended with bloodshed, +they harassed the men much; and our camp for near a week was more like +an outpost picquet than any thing else. This, however, terminated all +attempts on the part of the natives. From henceforth none of them +followed us on our route. + +BREACH THE DEPOT. + +At noon, I stopped about a mile short of the depot to take sights. +After dinner we pulled on, the men looking earnestly out for their +comrades whom they had left there, but none appeared. My little arbour, +in which I had written my letters, was destroyed, and the bank on which +out tents had stood was wholly deserted. We landed, however, and it was +a satisfaction to me to see the homeward track of the drays. The men +were sadly disappointed, and poor Clayton, who had anticipated a +plentiful meal, was completely chop fallen. M'Leay and I comforted them +daily with the hopes of meeting the drays, which I did not think +improbable. + +Thus, it will appear, that we regained the place from which we started +in seventy-seven days, during which, we could not have pulled less than +2000 miles. It is not for me, however, to make any comment, either on +the dangers to which we were occasionally exposed, or the toil and +privations we continually experienced in the course of this expedition. +My duty is, simply to give a plain narrative of facts, which I have +done with fidelity, and with as much accuracy as circumstances would +permit. Had we found Robert Harris at the depot, I should have +considered it unnecessary to trespass longer on the patient reader, but +as our return to that post did not relieve us from our difficulties, it +remains for me to carry on the narrative of our proceedings to the time +when we reached the upper branches of the Morumbidgee. + +DISAPPOINTED OF SUPPLIES. + +The hopes that had buoyed up the spirits of the men, ceased to operate +as soon as they were discovered to have been ill founded. The most +gloomy ideas took possession of their minds, and they fancied that we +had been neglected, and that Harris had remained in Sydney. It was to +no purpose that I explained to them that my instructions did not bind +Harris to come beyond Pondebadgery, and that I was confident he was +then encamped upon that plain. + +We had found the intricate navigation of the Morumbidgee infinitely +more distressing than the hard pulling up the open reaches of the +Murray, for we were obliged to haul the boat up between numberless +trunks of trees, an operation that exhausted the men much more than +rowing. The river had fallen below its former level, and rocks and logs +were now exposed above the water, over many of which the boat's keel +must have grazed, as we passed down with the current. I really +shuddered frequently, at seeing these complicated dangers, and I was at +a loss to conceive how we could have escaped them. The planks of our +boat were so thin that if she had struck forcibly against any one +branch of the hundreds she must have grazed, she would inevitably have +been rent asunder from stem to stern. + +COMPLETE EXHAUSTION OF THE MEN--ONE LOSES HIS SENSES. + +The day after we passed the depot, on our return, we began to +experience the effects of the rains that had fallen in the mountains. +The Morumbidgee rose upon us six feet in one night, and poured along +its turbid waters with proportionate violence. For seventeen days we +pulled against them with determined perseverance, but human efforts, +under privations such as ours, tend to weaken themselves, and thus it +was that the men began to exhibit the effects of severe and unremitting +toil. Our daily journeys were short, and the head we made against the +stream but trifling. The men lost the proper and muscular jerk with +which they once made the waters foam and the oars bend. Their whole +bodies swung with an awkward and laboured motion. Their arms appeared +to be nerveless; their faces became haggard, their persons emaciated, +their spirits wholly sunk; nature was so completely overcome, that from +mere exhaustion they frequently fell asleep during their painful and +almost ceaseless exertions. It grieved me to the heart to see them in +such a state at the close of so perilous a service, and I began to +reproach Robert Harris that he did not move down the river to meet us; +but, in fact, he was not to blame. I became captious, and found fault +where there was no occasion, and lost the equilibrium of my temper in +contemplating the condition of my companions. No murmur, however, +escaped them, nor did a complaint reach me, that was intended to +indicate that they had done all they could do. I frequently heard them +in their tent, when they thought I had dropped asleep, complaining of +severe pains and of great exhaustion. "I must tell the captain, +to-morrow," some of them would say, "that I can pull no more." +To-morrow came, and they pulled on, as if reluctant to yield to +circumstances. Macnamee at length lost his senses. We first observed +this from his incoherent conversation, but eventually from manner. He +related the most extraordinary tales, and fidgeted about eternally +while in the boat. I felt it necessary, therefore, to relieve him from +the oars. + +Amidst these distresses, M'Leay preserved his good humour, and +endeavoured to lighten the task, and to cheer the men as much as +possible. His presence at this time was a source of great comfort to +me. The uniform kindness with which he had treated his companions, gave +him an influence over them now, and it was exerted with the happiest +effect. + +DESPATCH TWO MEN TO PONDEBADGERY. + +On the 8th and 9th of April we had heavy rain, but there was no respite +for us. Our provisions were nearly consumed, and would have been wholly +exhausted, if we had not been so fortunate as to kill several swans. On +the 11th, we gained our camp opposite to Hamilton's Plains, after a day +of severe exertion. Our tents were pitched upon the old ground, and the +marks of our cattle were around us. In the evening, the men went out +with their guns, and M'Leay and I walked to the rear of the camp, to +consult undisturbed as to the moat prudent measures to be adopted, +under our embarrassing circumstances. The men were completely sunk. We +were still between eighty and ninety miles from Pondebadgery, in a +direct line, and nearly treble that distance by water. The task was +greater than we could perform, and our provisions were insufficient. In +this extremity I thought it best to save the men the mortification of +yielding, by abandoning the boat; and on further consideration, I +determined on sending Hopkinson and Mulholland, whose devotion, +intelligence, and indefatigable spirits, I well knew, forward to the +plain. + +The joy this intimation spread was universal, Both Hopkinson and +Mulholland readily undertook the journey, and I, accordingly, prepared +orders for them to start by the earliest dawn. It was not without a +feeling of sorrow that I witnessed the departure of these two men, to +encounter a fatiguing march. I had no fears as to their gaining the +plain, if their reduced state would permit them. On the other hand, I +hoped they would fall in with our old friend the black, or that they +would meet the drays; and I could not but admire the spirit and energy +they both displayed upon the occasion. Their behaviour throughout had +been such as to awaken in my breast a feeling of the highest +approbation. Their conduct, indeed, exceeded all praise, nor did they +hesitate one moment when I called upon them to undertake this last +trying duty, after such continued exertion. I am sure the reader will +forgive me for bringing under his notice the generous efforts of these +two men; by me it can never be forgotten. + +ABANDON AND BURN THE BOAT. + +Six days had passed since their departure; we remaining encamped. +M'Leay and myself had made some short excursions, but without any +result worthy of notice. A group of sand-hills rose in the midst of the +alluvial deposits, about a quarter of a mile from the tents, that were +covered with coarse grasses and banksias. We shot several intertropical +birds feeding in the latter, and sucking the honey from their flowers. +I had, in the mean time, directed Clayton to make some plant cases of +the upper planks of the boat, and then to set fire to her, for she was +wholly unserviceable, and I felt a reluctance to leave her like a +neglected log on the water. The last ounce of flour had been served out +to the men, and the whole of it was consumed on the sixth day from that +on which we had abandoned the boat. I had calculated on seeing +Hopkinson again in eight days, but as the morrow would see us without +food, I thought, as the men had had a little rest it would be better to +advance towards relief than to await its arrival. + +MEN RETURN WITH SUPPLIES. + +On the evening of the 18th, therefore, we buried our specimens and +other stores, intending to break up the camp in the morning. A singular +bird, which invariably passed it at an hour after sunset, and which, +from its heavy flight, appeared to be of unusual size so attracted my +notice, that in the evening M'Leay and I crossed the river, in hope to +get a shot at it. We had, however, hardly landed on the other side, +when a loud shout called us back to witness the return of our comrades. + +They were both of them in a state that beggars description. Their knees +and ankles were dreadfully swollen, and their limbs so painful, that as +soon as they arrived in the camp they sunk under their efforts, but +they met us with smiling countenances, and expressed their satisfaction +at having arrived so seasonably to our relief. They had, as I had +foreseen, found Robert Harris on the plain, which they reached on the +evening of the third day. They had started early the next morning on +their return with such supplies as they thought we might immediately +want. Poor Macnamee had in a great measure recovered, but for some days +he was sullen and silent: sight of the drays gave him uncommon +satisfaction. Clayton gorged himself; but M'Leay, myself and Fraser +could not at first relish the meat that was placed before us. + +It was determined to give the bullocks a day of rest, and I availed +myself of the serviceable state of the horses to visit some hills about +eighteen miles to the northward. I was anxious to gain a view of the +distant country to the N.W., and to ascertain the geological character +of the hills themselves. M'Leay, Fraser, and myself left the camp early +in the morning of the 19th, on our way to them. Crossing the sand +hills, we likewise passed a creek, and, from the flooded or alluvial +tracks, got on an elevated sandy country, in which we found a beautiful +grevillia. From this we passed a barren ridge of quartz-formation, +terminating in open box forest. From it we descended and traversed a +plain that must, at some periods, be almost impassable. It was covered +with acacia pendula, and the soil was a red earth, bare of vegetation +in many places. At its extremity we came to some stony ridges, and, +descending their northern side, gained the base of the hills. They were +more extensive than they appeared to be from our camp; and were about +six hundred feet in height, and composed of a conglomerate rock. They +were extremely barren, nor did the aspect of the country seem to +indicate a favourable change. I was enabled, however, to connect my +line of route with the more distant hills between the Morumbidgee and +the Lachlan. We returned to the camp at midnight. + +MEET WITH THE DRAYS. + +On the following morning we left our station before Hamilton's Plains. +We reached Pondebadgery on the 28th, and found Robert Harris, with a +plentiful supply of provisions. He had everything extremely regular, +and had been anxiously expecting our return, of which he at length +wholly despaired. He had been at the plain two months, and intended to +have moved down the river immediately, had we not made our appearance +when we did. + +I had sent M'Leay forward on the 20th with letters to the Governor, +whose anxiety was great on our account. I remained for a fortnight on +the plain to restore the men, but Hopkinson had so much over-exerted +himself that it was with difficulty he crawled along. + +In my despatches to the Governor, from the depot, I had suggested the +policy of distributing some blankets and other presents to the natives +on the Morumbidgee, in order to reward those who had been useful to our +party, and in the hope of proving beneficial to settlers in that +distant part of the colony. His Excellency was kind enough to accede to +my request, and I found ample means for these purposes among the stores +that Harris brought from Sydney. + +We left Pondebadgery Plain early on the 5th of May, and reached Guise's +Station late in the afternoon. We gained Yass Plains on the 12th, +having struck through the mountain passes by a direct line, instead of +returning by our old route near Underaliga. As the party was crossing +the plains I rode to see Mr. O'Brien, but did not find him at home. + +INSTANCE OF CANNIBALISM. + +While waiting at his hut, one of the stockmen pointed out two blacks to +me at a little distance from us. The one was standing, the other +sitting. "That fellow, sir," said he, "who is sitting down, killed his +infant child last night by knocking its head against a stone, after +which he threw it on the fire and then devoured it." I was quite horror +struck, and could scarcely believe such a story. I therefore went up to +the man and questioned him as to the fact, as well as I could. He did +not attempt to deny it, but slunk away in evident consciousness. I then +questioned the other that remained, whose excuse for his friend was +that the child was sick and would never have grown up, adding he +himself did not PATTER (eat) any of it. + +Many of my readers may probably doubt this horrid occurrence having +taken place, as I have not mentioned any corroborating circumstances. I +am myself, however, as firmly persuaded of the truth of what I have +stated as if I had seen the savage commit the act; for I talked to his +companion who did see him, and who described to me the manner in which +he killed the child. Be it as it may, the very mention of such a thing +among these people goes to prove that they are capable of such an +enormity. + +We left Yass Plains on the 14th of May, and reached Sydney by easy +stages on the 25th, after an absence of nearly six months. + + +* * * * * + + +CONCLUDING REMARKS. + +To most of my readers, the foregoing narrative will appear little else +than a succession of adventures. Whilst the expedition was toiling down +the rivers, no rich country opened upon the view to reward or to cheer +the perseverance of those who composed it, and when, at length, the +land of promise lay smiling before them, their strength and their means +were too much exhausted to allow of their commencing an examination, of +the result of which there could be but little doubt. The expedition +returned to Sydney, without any splendid discovery to gild its +proceedings; and the labours and dangers it had encountered were +considered as nothing more than ordinary occurrences. If I myself had +entertained hopes that my researches would have benefited the colony, I +was wholly disappointed. There is a barren tract of country lying to +the westward of the Blue Mountains that will ever divide the eastern +coast from the more central parts of Australia, as completely as if +seas actually rolled between them. + +GEOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. + +In a geographical point of view, however, nothing could have been more +satisfactory, excepting an absolute knowledge of the country to the +northward between the Murray and the Darling, than the results of the +expedition. I have in its proper place stated, as fairly as I could, my +reasons for supposing the principal junction (which I consequently left +without a name) to be the Darling of my former journey, as well as the +various arguments that bore against such a conclusion. + +Of course, where there is so much room for doubt, opinions will be +various. I shall merely review the subject, in order to connect +subsequent events with my previous observations, and to give the reader +a full idea of that which struck me to be the case on a close and +anxious investigation of the country from mountain to lowland. I +returned from the Macquarie with doubts on my mind as to the ultimate +direction to which the waters of the Darling river might ultimately +flow; for, with regard to every other point, the question was, I +considered, wholly decided. But, with regard to that singular stream, I +was, from the little knowledge I had obtained, puzzled as to its actual +course; and I thought it as likely that it might turn into the heart of +the interior, as that it would make to the south. It had not, however, +escaped my notice, that the northern rivers turned more abruptly +southward (after gaining a certain distance from the base of the +ranges) than the more southern streams: near the junction of the +Castlereagh with the Darling especially, the number of large creeks +joining the first river from the north, led me to conclude that there +was at that particular spot a rapid fall of country to the south. + +The first thing that strengthened in my mind this half-formed opinion, +was the fall of the Lachlan into the Morumbidgee. I had been told that +Australia was a basin; that an unbroken range of hills lined its +coasts, the internal rivers of which fell into its centre, and +contributed to the formation of an inland sea; I was not therefore +prepared to find a break in the chain--a gap as it were for the escape +of these waters to the coast. + +Subsequently to our entrance into the Murray, the remarkable efforts of +that river to maintain a southerly course were observed even by the +men, and the singular runs it made to the south, when unchecked by high +lands, clearly evinced its natural tendency to flow in that direction. + +Had we found ourselves at an elevation above the bed of the Darling +when we reached the junction of the principal tributary with the +Murray, I should still have had doubts on my mind as to the identity of +that tributary with the first-mentioned river; but considering the +trifling elevation of the Darling above the sea, and that the junction +was still less elevated above it, I cannot bring myself to believe that +the former alters its course. It is not, however, on this simple +geographical principle that I have built my conclusions; other +corroborative circumstances have tended also to confirm in my mind the +opinion I have already given, not only of the comparatively recent +appearance above the ocean of the level country over which I had +passed, but that the true dip of the interior is from north to south. + +In support of the first of these conclusions, it would appear that a +current of water must have swept the vast accumulation of shells, +forming the great fossil bank through which the Murray passes from the +northern extremity of the continent, to deposit them where they are; +and it would further appear from the gradual rise of this bed, on an +inclined plain from N.N.E. to S.S.W., that it must in the first +instance, have swept along the base of the ranges, but ultimately +turned into the above direction by the convexity of the mountains at +the S.E. angle of the coast. From the circumstance, moreover, of the +summit of the fossil formation being in places covered with oyster +shells, the fact of the whole mass having been under water is +indisputable, and leads us naturally to the conclusion that the +depressed interior beyond it must have been under water at the same +time. + +It was proved by barometrical admeasurement, that the cataract of the +Macquarie was 680 feet above the level of the sea, and, in like manner, +it was found that the depot of Mr. Oxley, on the Lachlan, was only 500, +there being a still greater fall of country beyond these two points. +The maximum height of the fossil bank was 300 feet; and if we suppose a +line to be drawn from its top to the eastward, that line would pass +over the marshes of the two rivers, and would cut them at a point below +which they both gradually diminish. Hence I am brought to conclude that +in former times the sea washed the western base of the dividing ranges, +at or near the two points whose respective elevations I have given; and +that when the mass of land now lying waste and unproductive, became +exposed, the rivers, which until then had pursued a regular course to +the ocean, having no channel beyond their original termination, +overflowed the almost level country into which they now fall; or, +filling some extensive concavity, have contributed, by successive +depositions, to the formation of those marshes of which so much has +been said. I regret extremely, that my defective vision prevents me +giving a slight sketch to elucidate whet I fear I have, in words, +perhaps, failed in making sufficiently intelligible. + +GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. + +Now, as we know not by what means the changes that have taken place on +the earth's surface have been effected, and can only reason on them +from analogy, it is to be feared we shall never arrive at any clear +demonstration of the truth of our surmises with regard to geographical +changes, whether extensive or local, since the causes which produced +them will necessarily have ceased to operate. We cannot refer to the +dates when they took place, as we may do in regard to the eruptions of +a volcano, or the appearance or disappearance of an island. Such events +are of minor importance. Those mighty changes to which I would be +understood to allude, can hardly be laid to the account of chemical +agency. We can easily comprehend how subterranean fires will +occasionally burst forth, and can thus satisfactorily account for +earthquake or volcano; but it is not to any clashing of properties, or +to any visible causes, that the changes of which I speak can be +attributed. They appear rather as the consequences of direct agency, of +an invisible power, not as the occasional and fretful workings of +nature herself. The marks of that awful catastrophe which so nearly +extinguished the human race, are every day becoming more and more +visible as geological research proceeds. Thus, in the limestone caves +at Wellington Valley, the remains of fossils and exuviae, show that +their depths were penetrated by the same searching element that poured +into the caverns of Kirkdale and other places. They are as gleams of +sunshine falling upon the pages of that sublime and splendid volume, in +which the history of the deluge is alone to be found; as if the +Almighty intended that His word should stand single and unsupported +before mankind: and when we consider that such corroborative +testimonies of his wrath, as those I have noticed, were in all +probability wholly unknown to those who wrote that sacred book, the +discovery of the remains of a past world, must strike those under whose +knowledge it may fall with the truth of that awful event, which +language has vainly endeavoured to describe and painters to represent. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Environs of the lake Alexandrina--Appointment of Capt. Barker to make a +further survey of the coast near Encounter Bay--Narrative of his +proceedings--Mount Lofty, Mount Barker, and beautiful country +adjacent--Australian salmon--Survey of the coast--Outlet of lake to the +sea--Circumstances that led to the slaughter of Capt. Barker by the +natives--His character--Features of this part of the country and +capabilities of its coasts--Its adaptation for colonization--Suggestions +for the furtherance of future Expeditions. + + +ENVIRONS OF THE LAKE ALEXANDRINA. + +The foregoing narrative will have given the reader some idea of the +state in which the last expedition reached the bottom of that extensive +and magnificent basin which receives the waters of the Murray. The men +were, indeed, so exhausted, in strength, and their provisions so much +reduced by the time they gained the coast, that I doubted much, whether +either would hold out to such place as we might hope for relief. Yet, +reduced as the whole of us were from previous exertion, beset as our +homeward path was by difficulty and danger, and involved as our +eventual safety was in obscurity and doubt, I could not but deplore the +necessity that obliged me to re-cross the Lake Alexandrina (as I had +named it in honour of the heir apparent to the British crown), and to +relinquish the examination of its western shores. We were borne over +its ruffled and agitated surface with such rapidity, that I had +scarcely time to view it as we passed; but, cursory as my glance was, I +could not but think I was leaving behind me the fullest reward of our +toil, in a country that would ultimately render our discoveries +valuable, and benefit the colony for whose interests we were engaged. +Hurried, I would repeat, as my view of it was, my eye never fell on a +country of more promising aspect, or of more favourable position, than +that which occupies the space between the lake and the ranges of St. +Vincent's Gulf, and, continuing northerly from Mount Barker, stretches +away, without any visible boundary. + +It appeared to me that, unless nature had deviated from her usual laws, +this tract of country could not but be fertile, situated as it was to +receive the mountain deposits on the one hand, and those of the lake +upon the other. + +FURTHER EXAMINATION OF THE COAST. + +In my report to the Colonial Government, however, I did not feel myself +justified in stating, to their full extent, opinions that were founded +on probability and conjecture alone. But, although I was guarded in +this particular, I strongly recommended a further examination of the +coast, from the most eastern point of Encounter Bay, to the head St. +Vincent's Gulf, to ascertain if any other than the known channel +existed among the sand-hills of the former, or if, as I had every +reason to hope from the great extent of water to the N.W., there was a +practicable communication with the lake from the other; and I ventured +to predict, that a closer survey of the interjacent country, would be +attended with the most beneficial results; nor have I a doubt that the +promontory of Cape Jervis would ere this have been settled, had Captain +Barker lived to complete his official reports. + +CAPT. BARKER'S SURVEY. + +The governor, General Darling, whose multifarious duties might well +have excused him from paying attention to distant objects, hesitated +not a moment when he thought the interests of the colony, whose welfare +he so zealously promoted, appeared to be concerned; and he determined +to avail himself of the services of Captain Collet Barker, of the 39th +regiment, who was about to be recalled from King George's Sound, in +order to satisfy himself as to the correctness of my views. + +Captain Barker had not long before been removed from Port Raffles, on +the northern coast, where he had had much intercourse with the natives, +and had frequently trusted himself wholly in their hands. It was not, +however, merely on account of his conciliating manners, and knowledge +of the temper and habits of the natives, that he was particularly +fitted for the duty upon which it was the governor's pleasure to employ +him. He was, in addition, a man of great energy of character, and of +much and various information. + +Orders having reached Sydney, directing the establishment belonging to +New South Wales to be withdrawn, prior to the occupation of King +George's Sound by the government of Western Australia, the ISABELLA +schooner was sent to receive the troops and prisoners on board; and +Captain Barker was directed, as soon as he should have handed over the +settlement to Captain Stirling, to proceed to Cape Jervis, from which +point it was thought he could best carry on a survey not only of the +coast but also of the interior. + +This excellent and zealous officer sailed from King George's Sound, on +the 10th of April, 1831, and arrived off Cape Jervis on the 13th. He +was attended by Doctor Davies, one of the assistant surgeons of his +regiment, and by Mr. Kent, of the Commissariat. It is to the latter +gentleman that the public are indebted for the greater part of the +following details; he having attended Captain Barker closely during the +whole of this short but disastrous excursion, and made notes as copious +as they are interesting. At the time the ISABELLA arrived off Cape +Jervis, the weather was clear and favourable. Captain Barker +consequently stood into St. Vincent's Gulf, keeping, as near as +practicable, to the eastern shore, in soundings that varied from six to +ten fathoms, upon sand and mud. His immediate object was to ascertain +if there was any communication with the lake Alexandrina from the gulf. +He ascended to lat. 34 degrees 40 minutes where he fully satisfied +himself that no channel did exist between them. He found, however, that +the ranges behind Cape Jervis terminated abruptly at Mount Lofty, in +lat. 34 degrees 56 minutes, and, that a flat and wooded country +succeeded to the N. and N.E. The shore of the gulf tended more to the +N.N.W., and mud flats and mangrove swamps prevailed along it. + +INVITING COUNTRY--MOUNT LOFTY. + +Mr. Kent informs me, that they landed for the first time on the 15th, +but that they returned almost immediately to the vessel. On the 17th, +Captain Barker again landed, with the intention of remaining on shore +for two or three days. He was accompanied by Mr. Kent, his servant +Mills, and two soldiers. The boat went to the place at which they had +before landed, as they thought they had discovered a small river with a +bar entrance. They crossed the bar, and ascertained that it was a +narrow inlet, of four miles in length, that terminated at the base of +the ranges. The party were quite delighted with the aspect of the +country on either side of the inlet, and with the bold and romantic +scenery behind them. The former bore the appearance of natural meadows, +lightly timbered, and covered with a variety of grasses. The soil was +observed to be a rich, fat, chocolate coloured earth, probably the +decomposition of the deep blue limestone, that showed itself along the +coast hereabouts. On the other hand, a rocky glen made a cleft in the +ranges at the head of the inlet; and they were supplied with abundance +of fresh water which remained in the deeper pools that had been filled +by the torrents during late rains. The whole neighbourhood was so +inviting that the party slept at the head of the inlet. + +MOUNT LOFTY AND ITS ENVIRONS. + +In the morning, Captain Barker proceeded to ascend Mount Lofty, +accompanied by Mr. Kent and his servant, leaving the two soldiers at +the bivouac, at which he directed them to remain until his return. Mr. +Kent says they kept the ridge all the way, and rose above the sea by a +gradual ascent. The rock-formation of the lower ranges appeared to be +an argillaceous schist; the sides and summit of the ranges were covered +with verdure, and the trees upon them were of more than ordinary size. +The view to the eastward was shut out by other ranges, parallel to +those on which they were; below them to the westward, the same pleasing +kind of country that flanked the inlet still continued. + +MOUNT BARKER. + +In the course of the day they passed round the head of a deep ravine, +whose smooth and grassy sides presented a beautiful appearance. The +party stood 600 feet above the bed of a small rivulet that occupied the +bottom of the ravine. In some places huge blocks of granite interrupted +its course, in others the waters had worn the rock smooth. The polish +of these rocks was quite beautiful, and the veins of red and white +quartz which traversed them, looked like mosaic work. They did not gain +the top of Mount Lofty, but slept a few miles beyond the ravine. In the +morning they continued their journey, and, crossing Mount Lofty, +descended northerly, to a point from which the range bent away a little +to the N.N.E., and then terminated. The view from this point was much +more extensive than that from Mount Lofty itself. They overlooked a +great part of the gulf, and could distinctly see the mountains at the +head of it to the N.N.W. To the N.W. there was a considerable +indentation in the coast, which had escaped Captain Barker's notice +when examining it. A mountain, very similar to Mount Lofty, bore due +east of them, and appeared to be the termination of its range. They +were separated by a valley of about ten miles in width, the appearance +of which was not favourable. Mr. Kent states to me, that Capt. Barker +observed at the time that he thought it probable I had mistaken this +hill for Mount Lofty, since it shut out the view of the lake from him, +and therefore he naturally concluded, I could not have seen Mount +Lofty. I can readily imagine such an error to have been made by me, +more especially as I remember that at the time I was taking bearings in +the lake, I thought Captain Flinders had not given Mount Lofty, as I +then conceived it to be, its proper position in longitude. Both hills +are in the same parallel of latitude. The mistake on my part is +obvious. I have corrected it in the charts, and have availed myself of +the opportunity thus afforded me of perpetuating, as far as I can, the +name of an inestimable companion in Captain Barker himself. + +Immediately below the point on which they stood, Mr. Kent says, a low +undulating country extended to the northward, as far as he could see. +It was partly open, and partly wooded; and was every where covered with +verdure. It continued round to the eastward, and apparently ran down +southerly, at the opposite base of the mount Barker Range. I think +there can be but little doubt that my view from the S.E., that is, from +the lake, extended over the same or a part of the same country. Captain +Barker again slept on the summit of the range, near a large basin that +looked like the mouth of a crater, in which huge fragments of rocks +made a scene of the utmost confusion. These rocks were a coarse grey +granite, of which the higher parts and northern termination of the +Mount Lofty range are evidently formed; for Mr. Kent remarks that it +superseded the schistose formation at the ravine we have noticed--and +that, subsequently, the sides of the hills became more broken, and +valleys, or gullies, more properly speaking, very numerous. Captain +Barker estimated the height of Mount Lofty above the sea at 2,400 feet, +and the distance of its summit from the coast at eleven miles. Mr. Kent +says they were surprised at the size of the trees on the immediate brow +of it; they measured one and found it to be 43 feet in girth. Indeed, +he adds, vegetation did not appear to have suffered either from its +elevated position, or from any prevailing wind. Eucalypti were the +general timber on the ranges; one species of which, resembling strongly +the black butted-gum, was remarkable for a scent peculiar to its bark. + +AUSTRALIAN SALMON. + +The party rejoined the soldiers on the 21st, and enjoyed the supply of +fish which they had provided for them. The soldiers had amused +themselves by fishing during Captain Barker's absence, and had been +abundantly successful. Among others they had taken a kind of salmon, +which, though inferior in size, resembled in shape, in taste, and in +the colour of its flesh, the salmon of Europe. I fancied that a fish +which I observed with extremely glittering scales, in the mouth of a +seal, when myself on the coast, must have been of this kind; and I have +no doubt that the lake is periodically visited by salmon, and that +these fish retain their habits of entering fresh water at particular +seasons, also in the southern hemisphere. + +Immediately behind Cape Jervis, there is a small bay, in which +according to the information of the sealers who frequent Kangaroo +Island, there is good and safe anchorage for seven months in the year, +that is to say, during the prevalence of the E. and N.E. winds. + +SURVEY OF THE COAST. + +Captain Barker landed on the 21st on this rocky point at the northern +extremity of this bay. He had, however, previously to this, examined +the indentation in the coast which he had observed from Mount Lofty, +and had ascertained that it was nothing more than an inlet; a spit of +sand, projecting from the shore at right angles with it, concealed the +month of the inlet. They took the boat to examine this point, and +carried six fathoms soundings round the head of the spit to the mouth +of the inlet, when it shoaled to two fathoms, and the landing was +observed to be bad, by reason of mangrove swamps on either side of it. +Mr. Kent, I think, told me that this inlet was from ten to twelve miles +long. Can it be that a current setting out of it at times, has thrown +up the sand-bank that protects its mouth, and that trees, or any other +obstacle, have hidden its further prolongation from Captain Barker's +notice? I have little hope that such is the case, but the remark is not +an idle one. + +BEAUTIFUL VALLEYS. + +Between this inlet and the one formerly mentioned, a small and clear +stream was discovered, to which Captain Barker kindly gave my name. On +landing, the party, which consisted of the same persons as the former +one, found themselves in a valley, which opened direct upon the bay. It +was confined to the north from the chief range by a lateral ridge, that +gradually declined towards and terminated at, the rocky point on which +they had landed. The other side of the valley was formed of a +continuation of the main range, which also gradually declined to the +south, and appeared to be connected with the hills at the extremity of +the cape. The valley was from nine to ten miles in length, and from +three to four in breadth. In crossing it, they ascertained that the +lagoon from which the schooner had obtained a supply of water, was +filled by a watercourse that came down its centre. The soil in the +valley was rich, but stony in some parts. There was an abundance of +pasture over the whole, from amongst which they started numerous +kangaroos. The scenery towards the ranges was beautiful and romantic, +and the general appearance of the country such as to delight the whole +party. + +Preserving a due east course, Captain Barker passed over the opposite +range of hills, and descended almost immediately into a second valley +that continued to the southwards. Its soil was poor and stony, and it +was covered with low scrub. Crossing it, they ascended the opposite +range, from the summit of which they had a view of Encounter Bay. An +extensive flat stretched from beneath them to the eastward, and was +backed, in the distance, by sand hummocks, and low wooded hills. The +extreme right of the flat rested upon the coast, at a rocky point near +which there were two or three islands. From the left a beautiful valley +opened upon it. A strong and clear rivulet from this valley traversed +the flat obliquely, and fell into the sea at the rocky point, or a +little to the southward of it. The hills forming the opposite side of +the valley had already terminated. Captain Barker, therefore, ascended +to higher ground, and, at length, obtained a view of the Lake +Alexandrina, and the channel of its communication with the sea to the +N.E. He now descended to the flat, and frequently expressed his anxious +wish to Mr. Kent that I had been one of their number to enjoy the +beauty of the scenery around them, and to participate in their labours. +Had fate so ordained it, it is possible the melancholy tragedy that +soon after occurred might have been averted. + +OUTLET OF LAKE TO THE SEA. + +At the termination of the flat they found themselves upon the banks of +the channel, and close to the sand hillock under which my tents had +been pitched. From this point they proceeded along the line of +sand-hills to the outlet; from which it would appear that Kangaroo +Island is not visible, but that the distant point which I mistook for +it was the S.E. angle of Cape Jervis. I have remarked, in describing +that part of the coast, that there is a sand-hill to the eastward of +the inlet, under which the tide runs strong, and the water is deep. +Captain Barker judged the breadth of the channel to be a quarter of a +mile, and he expressed a desire to swim across it to the sand-hill to +take bearings, and to ascertain the nature of the strand beyond it to +the eastward. + +It unfortunately happened, that he was the only one of the party who +could swim well, in consequence of which his people remonstrated with +him on the danger of making the attempt unattended. Notwithstanding, +however, that he was seriously indisposed, he stripped, and after Mr. +Kent had fastened his compass on his head for him, he plunged into the +water, and with difficulty gained the opposite side; to effect which +took him nine minutes and fifty-eight seconds. His anxious comrades saw +him ascend the hillock, and take several bearings; he then descended +the farther side, and was never seen by them again. + +CIRCUMSTANCES ATTENDING THE LOSS OF CAPTAIN BARKER. + +For a considerable time Mr. Kent remained stationary, in momentary +expectation of his return; but at length, taking the two soldiers with +him, he proceeded along the shore in search of wood for a fire. At +about a quarter of a mile, the soldiers stopped and expressed their +wish to return, as their minds misgave them, and they feared that +Captain Barker had met with some accident. While conversing, they heard +a distant shout, or cry, which Mr. Kent thought resembled the call of +the natives, but which the soldiers positively declared to be the voice +of a white man. On their return to their companions, they asked if any +sounds had caught their ears, to which they replied in the negative. +The wind was blowing from the E.S.E., in which direction Captain Barker +had gone; and, to me, the fact of the nearer party not having heard +that which must have been his cries for assistance, is satisfactorily +accounted for, as, being immediately under the hill, the sounds must +have passed over their heads to be heard more distinctly at the +distance at which Mr. Kent and the soldiers stood. It is more than +probable, that while his men were expressing their anxiety about him, +the fearful tragedy was enacting which it has become my painful task to +detail. + +Evening closed in without any signs of Captain Barker's return, or any +circumstance by which Mr. Kent could confirm his fears that he had +fallen into the hands of the natives. For, whether it was that the +tribe which had shown such decided hostility to me when on the coast +had not observed the party, none made their appearance; and if I except +two, who crossed the channel when Mr. Kent was in search of wood, they +had neither seen nor heard any; and Captain Barker's enterprising +disposition being well known to his men, hopes were still entertained +that he was safe. A large fire was kindled, and the party formed a +silent and anxious group around it. Soon after night-fall, however, +their attention was roused by the sounds of the natives, and it was at +length discovered, that they had lighted a chain of small fires between +the sand-hill Captain Barker had ascended and the opposite side of the +channel, around which their women were chanting their melancholy dirge. +It struck upon the ears of the listeners with an ominous thrill, and +assured them of the certainty of the irreparable loss they had +sustained. All night did those dismal sounds echo along that lonely +shore, but as morning dawned, they ceased, and Mr. Kent and his +companions were again left in anxiety and doubt. They, at length, +thought it most advisable to proceed to the schooner to advise with +Doctor Davies. They traversed the beach with hasty steps, but did not +get on board till the following day. It was then determined to procure +assistance from the sealers on Kangaroo Island, as the only means by +which they could ascertain their leader's fate, and they accordingly +entered American Harbour. For a certain reward, one of the men agreed +to accompany Mr. Kent to the main with a native woman, to communicate +with the tribe that was supposed to have killed him. They landed at or +near the rocky point of Encounter Bay, where they were joined by two +other natives, one of whom was blind. The woman was sent forward for +intelligence, and on her return gave the following details: + +ACCOUNT OF HIS MURDER. + +It appears that at a very considerable distance from the first +sand-hill, there is another to which Captain Barker must have walked, +for the woman stated that three natives were going to the shore from +their tribe, and that they crossed his tract. Their quick perception +immediately told them it was an unusual impression. They followed upon +it, and saw Captain Barker returning. They hesitated for a long time to +approach him, being fearful of the instrument he carried. At length, +however, they closed upon him. Capt. Barker tried to soothe them, but +finding that they were determined to attack him, he made for the water +from which he could not have been very distant. One of the blacks +immediately threw his spear and struck him in the hip. This did not, +however, stop him. He got among the breakers, when he received the +second spear in the shoulder. On this, turning round, he received a +third full in the breast: with such deadly precision do these savages +cast their weapons. It would appear that the third spear was already on +its flight when Capt. Barker turned, and it is to be hoped, that it was +at once mortal. He fell on his back into the water. The natives then +rushed in, and dragging him out by the legs, seized their spears, and +indicted innumerable wounds upon his body; after which, they threw it +into deep water, and the sea-tide carried it away. + +HIS CHARACTER. + +Such, we have every reason to believe, was the untimely fate of this +amiable and talented man. It is a melancholy satisfaction to me thus +publicly to record his worth; instrumental, as I cannot but in some +measure consider my last journey to have been in leading to this fatal +catastrophe. Captain Barker was in disposition, as he was in the close +of his life, in many respects similar to Captain Cook. Mild, affable, +and attentive, he had the esteem and regard of every companion, and the +respect of every one under him. Zealous in the discharge of his public +duties, honourable and just in private life; a lover and a follower of +science; indefatigable and dauntless in his pursuits; a steady friend, +an entertaining companion; charitable, kind-hearted, disinterested, and +sincere--the task is equally difficult to find adequate expressions of +praise or of regret. In him the king lost one of his most valuable +officers, and his regiment one of its most efficient members. Beloved +as he was, the news of his loss struck his numerous friends with +sincere grief, but by none was it more severely felt than by the humble +individual who has endeavoured thus feebly to draw his portrait. + +From the same source from which the particulars of his death were +obtained, it was reported that the natives who perpetrated the deed +were influenced by no other motive than curiosity to ascertain if they +had power to kill a white man. But we must be careful in giving credit +to this, for it is much more probable that the cruelties exercised by +the sealers towards the blacks along the south coast, may have +instigated the latter to take vengeance on the innocent as well as on +the guilty. It will be seen, by a reference to the chart, that Captain +Barker, by crossing the channel, threw himself into the very hands of +that tribe which had evinced such determined hostility to myself and my +men. He got into the rear of their strong hold, and was sacrificed to +those feelings of suspicion, and to that desire of revenge, which the +savages never lose sight of until they have been gratified. + +FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY, AND CAPABILITIES OF THE COAST. + +It yet remains for me to state that when Mr. Kent returned to the +schooner, after this irreparable loss, he kept to the south of the +place at which he had crossed the first range with Captain Barker, and +travelled through a valley right across the promontory. He thus +discovered that there was a division in the ranges, through which there +was a direct and level road from the little bay on the northern +extremity of which they had last landed in St. Vincent's Gulf, to the +rocky point of Encounter Bay. The importance of this fact will be +better estimated, when it is known that good anchorage is secured to +small vessels inside the island that lies off the point of Encounter +Bay, which is rendered still safer by a horse shoe reef that forms, as +it were, a thick wall to break the swell of the sea. But this anchorage +is not safe for more than five months in the year. Independently of +these points, however, Mr. Kent remarks, that the spit a little to the +north of Mount Lofty would afford good shelter to minor vessels under +its lee. When the nature of the country is taken into consideration, +and the facility of entering that which lies between the ranges and the +Lake Alexandrina, from the south, and of a direct communication with +the lake itself, the want of an extensive harbour will, in some +measure, be compensated for, more especially when it is known that +within four leagues of Cape Jervis, a port little inferior to Port +Jackson, with a safe and broad entrance, exists at Kangaroo Island. The +sealers have given this spot the name of American Harbour. In it, I am +informed, vessels are completely land-locked, and secure from every +wind. Kangaroo Island is not, however, fertile by any means. It abounds +in shallow lakes filled with salt water during high tides, and which, +by evaporation, yield a vast quantity of salt. + +I gathered from the sealers that neither the promontory separating St. +Vincent from Spencer's Gulf, nor the neighbourhood of Port Lincoln, are +other than barren and sandy wastes. They all agree in describing Port +Lincoln itself as a magnificent roadstead, but equally agree as to the +sterility of its shores. It appears, therefore, that the promontory of +Cape Jervis owes its superiority to its natural features; in fact, to +the mountains that occupy its centre, to the debris that has been +washed from them, and to the decomposition of the better description of +its rocks. Such is the case at Illawarra, where the mountains approach +the sea; such indeed is the case every where, at a certain distance +from mountain ranges. + +ADAPTION OF THIS PART OF THE COUNTRY FOR COLONISATION. + +From the above account it would appear that a spot has, at length, been +found upon the south coast of New Holland, to which the colonist might +venture with every prospect of success, and in whose valleys the exile +might hope to build for himself and for his family a peaceful and +prosperous home. All who have ever landed upon the eastern shore of St. +Vincent's Gulf, agree as to the richness of its soil, and the abundance +of its pasture. Indeed, if we cast our eyes upon the chart, and examine +the natural features of the country behind Cape Jervis, we shall no +longer wonder at its differing in soil and fertility from the low and +sandy tracks that generally prevail along the shores of Australia. +Without entering largely into the consideration of the more remote +advantages that would, in all human probability, result from the +establishment of a colony, rather than a penal settlement, at St. +Vincent's Gulf, it will be expedient to glance hastily over the +preceding narrative, and, disengaging it from all extraneous matter, to +condense, as much as possible, the information it contains respecting +the country itself; for I have been unable to introduce any passing +remark, lest I should break the thread of an interesting detail. + +The country immediately behind Cape Jervis may, strictly speaking, be +termed a promontory, bounded to the west by St. Vincent's Gulf, and to +the east by the lake Alexandrina, and the sandy track separating that +basin from the sea. Supposing a line to be drawn from the parallel of +34 degrees 40 minutes to the eastward, it will strike the Murray river +about 25 miles above the head of the lake, and will clear the ranges, +of which Mount Lofty and Mount Barker are the respective terminations. +This line will cut off a space whose greatest breadth will be 55 miles, +whose length from north to south will be 75, and whose surface exceeds +7 millions of acres; from which if we deduct 2 millions for the +unavailable hills, we shall have 5 millions of acres of land, of rich +soil, upon which no scrub exists, and whose most distant points are +accessible, through a level country on the one hand, and by water on +the other. The southern extremity of the ranges can be turned by that +valley through which Mr. Kent returned to the schooner, after Captain +Barker's death. It is certain, therefore, that this valley not only +secures so grand a point, but also presents a level line of +communication from the small bay immediately to the north of the cape, +to the rocky point of Encounter Bay, at both of which places there is +safe anchorage at different periods of the year. + +HINTS FOR FUTURE EXPEDITIONS. + +The only objection that can be raised to the occupation of this spot, +is the want of an available harbour. Yet it admits of great doubt +whether the contiguity of Kangaroo Island to Cape Jervis, (serving as +it does to break the force of the prevailing winds, as also of the +heavy swell that would otherwise roll direct into the bay,) and the +fact of its possessing a safe and commodious harbour, certainly at an +available distance, does not in a great measure remove the objection. +Certain it is that no port, with the exception of that on the shores of +which the capital of Australia is situated, offers half the convenience +of this, although it be detached between three and four leagues from +the main. + +On the other hand it would appear, that there is no place from which at +any time the survey of the more central parts of the continent could be +so effectually carried on; for in a country like Australia, where the +chief obstacle to be apprehended in travelling is the want of water, +the facilities afforded by the Murray and its tributaries, are +indisputable; and I have little doubt that the very centre of the +continent might be gained by a judicious and enterprising expedition. +Certainly it is most desirable to ascertain whether the river I have +supposed to be the Darling be really so or not. I have stated my +objection to depots, but I think that if a party commenced its +operations upon the Murray from the junction upwards, and, after +ascertaining the fact of its ultimate course, turned away to the N.W. +up one of the tributaries of the Murray, with a supply of six months' +provisions, the results would be of the most satisfactory kind, and the +features of the country be wholly developed. I cannot, I think, +conclude this work better than by expressing a hope, that the Colonial +Government will direct such measures to be adopted as may be necessary +for the extension of our geographical knowledge in Australia. The +facilities of fitting out expeditions in New South Wales, render the +expenses of little moment, when compared with the importance of the +object in view; and although I am labouring under the effects of former +attempts, yet would I willingly give such assistance as I could to +carry such an object into effect. + + + + +APPENDIX. + + +APPENDIX No. I. + +GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS FOUND TO THE SOUTH-WEST OF PORT JACKSON. + + +Considering the nature of the country over which the first expedition +travelled, it could hardly have been expected that its geological +specimens would be numerous. It will appear, however, from the +following list of rocks collected during the second expedition, that +the geological formation of the mountains to the S.W. of Port Jackson +is as various as that to the N.W. of it is mountainous. The specimens +are described not according to their natural order, but in the +succession in which they were found, commencing from Yass Plains, and +during the subsequent stages of the journey. + + +Sandstone, Old Red.--Found on various parts of Yass Plains, in contact +with + +Limestone, Transition.--Colour dark grey; composes the bed of the Yass +River, and apparently traverses the sandstone formation. Yass Plains +lie 170 miles to the S.W. of Sydney. + +Sandstone, Old Red.--Again succeeds the limestone, and continues to the +N.W. to a considerable distance over a poor and scrubby country, +covered for the most part with a dwarf species of Eucalyptus. + +Granite.--Colour grey; feldspar, black mica, and quartz: succeeds the +sandstone, and continues to the S.W. as far as the Morumbidgee River, +over an open forest country broken into hill and dale. It is generally +on these granite rocks that the best grazing is found. + +Greywacke.--Colour grey, of light hue, or dark, with black specks. +Soft.--Composition of a part of the ranges that form the valley of the +Morumbidgee. + +Serpentine.--Colour green of different shades, striped sulphur yellow; +slaty fracture, soft and greasy to the touch. Forms hills of moderate +elevation, of peculiarly sharp spine, resting on quartz. Composition of +most of the ranges opposite the Doomot River on the Morumbidgee, in +lat. 35 degrees 4 minutes and long. 147 degrees 40 minutes. + +Quartz.--Colour snow-white; formation of the higher ranges on the left +bank of the Morumbidgee, in the same latitude and longitude as above; +showing in large blocks on the sides of the hills. + +Slaty Quartz, with varieties.--Found with the quartz rock, in a state +of decomposition. + +Granite.--Succeeds the serpentine, of light colour; feldspar +decomposed; mica, glittering and silvery white. + +Sandstone, Old Red.--Composition of the more distant ranges on the +Morumbidgee. Forms abrupt precipices over the river flats; of sterile +appearance, and covered with Banksias and scrub. + +Mica Slate.--Colour dark brown, approaching red; mica glittering. The +hills enclosing Pondebadgery Plain at the gorge of the valley of the +Morumbidgee, are composed of this rock. They are succeeded by + +Sandstone.--Which rises abruptly from the river in perpendicular +cliffs, of 145 feet in height. + +Jasper and quartz.--Colour red and white. Forms the slope of the above +sandstone, and may be considered the outermost of the rocks connected +with the Eastern or Blue Mountain Ranges. It will be remembered that +jasper and quartz were likewise found on a plain near the Darling +River, precisely similar to the above, although occurring at so great a +distance from each other. + +Granite.--Light red colour; composition of a small isolated hill, to +all appearance wholly unconnected with the neighbouring ranges. This +specimen is very similar to that found in the bed of New-Year's Creek. + +Breccia.--Silicious cement, composed of a variety of pebbles. Formation +of the most WESTERLY of the hills between the Lachlan and Macquarie +Rivers. This conglomerate was also found to compose the minor and most +westerly of the elevations of the more northern interior. + +Chrystallised Sulphate of Lime.--Found embedded in the deep alluvial +soil in the banks of the Morumbidgee River, in lat. 34 degrees 30 +minutes S., and long. 144 degrees 55 minutes E. The same substance was +found on the banks of the Darling, in lat. 29 degrees 49 minutes S., +and in long. 145 degrees 18 minutes E. + + +A reference to the chart will show that the Morumbidgee, from the first +of the above positions, may be said to have entered the almost dead +level of the interior. No elevation occurs to the westward for several +hundreds of miles. A coarse grit occasionally traversed the beds of the +rivers, and their lofty banks of clay or marl appear to be based on +sandstone and granitic sand. The latter occurs in slabs of four inches +in thickness, divided by a line of saffron-coloured sand, and seems to +have been subjected to fusion, as if the particles or grains had been +cemented together by fusion. + + +The first decided break that takes place in the level of the interior +occurs upon the right bank of the Murray, a little below the junction +of the Rufus with it. A cliff of from 120 to 130 feet in perpendicular +elevation here flanks the river for about 200 yards, when it recedes +from it, and forms a spacious amphitheatre that is occupied by +semicircular hillocks, that partake of the same character as the cliff +itself; the face of which showed the various substances of which it was +composed in horizontal lines, that if prolonged would cut the same +substance in the hillocks. Based upon a soft white sandstone, a bed of +clay formed the lowest part of the cliff; upon this bed of clay, a bed +of chalk reposed; this chalk was superseded by a thick bed of +saponaceous earth, whilst the summit of the cliff was composed of a +bright red sand. Semi-opal and hydrate of silex were found in the +chalk, and some beautiful specimens of brown menelite were collected +from the upper stratum of the cliff. + +A little below this singular place, the country again declines, when a +tertiary fossil formation shows itself, which, rising gradually as an +inclined plain, ultimately attains an elevation of 300 feet. This +formation continues to the very coast, since large masses of the rock +were observed in the channel of communication between the lake and the +ocean; and the hills to the left of the channel were based upon it. +This great bank cannot, therefore, average less than from seventy to +ninety miles in width. At its commencement, it strikingly resembled +skulls piled one on the other, as well in colour as appearance. This +effect had been produced by the constant rippling of water against the +rock. The softer parts had been washed away, and the shells (a bed of +Turritella) alone remained. + +Plate 1, Figures 1, 2, and 3, represent the selenite formation. + +Plate 2, represents a mass of the rock containing numerous kinds of +shells, of which the following are the most conspicuous: + + Cardium + Pectunculus + Corbula + Arca + Conus, and + Others unknown. + + +* * * + + +The following is a list of the fossils collected from various parts of +this formation, from which it is evident that a closer examination +would lead to the discovery of numberless species. + + +TUNICATA. + + + PLATE III. + + FIG.1 Eschara celleporacea. + 2 ------- piriformis. + 3 ------- UNNAMED. + + FIG.4 Cellepora echinata. + 5 --------- escharoides? + 6 Retepora disticha. + 7 -------- vibicata. + 8 Glauconome rhombifera. + All Tertiary in Westphalia and England. + + +RADIATA + + + 9 Scutella. + 10 Spatangus Hoffmanni--Goldfuss. + Tertiary, in Westphalia. + 11 Echinus. + + +CONCHIFERA--BIVALVED SHELLS. + + + Corbula gallica--Paris basin--Tertiary. + Tellina? + Corbis lamellosa--Tertiary--Paris. + Lucina. + Venus (Cytherea) laevigata--ibid. + ----- ---------- obliqua --ibid. + Venus + Cardium?--fragments. + 12 Nucula--such is found in London clay. + 13 Pecten coarctatus?--Placentia. + ------ various?--recent. + 14 ------ species unknown. + Two other Pectens also occur. + Ostrea elongata--Deshayes. + 15 Terebratula. + 16 One cast, genus unknown, perhaps a Cardium. + + +MOLUSCA--UNIVALVED SHELLS. + + + Bulla? Plate II., fig. 2. + FIG.17 Natica--small. + 18 ------ large species. + Dentalium? + 19 Trochus. + 20 Turritella. + ---------- in gyps. + 21 Murex. + 22 Buccinum? + 23 Mitra. + 24 ----- very short. + 25 Cypraea. + 26 Conus. + 27 ----- (Plate II., fig. 3.) + 28 Two, unknown, (Also Plate II, fig. 4.) + The above all appear to belong to the newer tertiary formations. + +[Fig.17 to 27--These genera are scarcely ever, and some of them not at +all, found in any but tertiary formations.] + + A block of coarse red granite forms an island in the centre of the + river near the lake, but is nowhere else visible, although it is very + probably the basis of the surrounding country. + + +ROCK FORMATION OF THE COAST RANGE OF ST. VINCENT'S GULF. + + +Primitive Transition Limestone.--Light grey, striped. Altered in +appearance by volcanic action; occurs on the Ranges north of Cape +Jervis. + +Granite.--Colour, red; found on the west side of Encounter Bay. + +Brown Spar.--South point of Cape Jervis. + +Sandstone, Old Red.--East coast of St. Vincent's Gulf. + +Limestone, Transition.--Colour, blue. East Coast of St. Vincent's Gulf. +Formation near the first inlet. Continuing to the base of the Ranges. + +Clay Slate.--Composition of the lower part of the Mount Lofty Range. + +Granite.--Fine grained, red; forms the higher parts of the Mount Lofty +Range. + +Quartz, with Tourmaline.--Lower parts of the Mount Lofty Range. + +Limestone Flustra, and their Corallines, probably tertiary.--From the +mouth of the Sturt, on the coast line, nearly abreast of Mount Lofty. + + + + +APPENDIX No. II. + + +OFFICIAL REPORT TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT. + +* * * * * + +GOVERNMENT ORDER. + +Colonial Secretary's Office, Sydney, + May 10, 1830. + +His Excellency the Governor has much satisfaction in publishing the +following report of the proceedings of an expedition undertaken for the +purpose of tracing the course of the river "Morumbidgee," and of +ascertaining whether it communicated with the coast forming the +southern boundary of the colony. + +The expedition, which was placed under the direction of Captain Sturt, +of his Majesty's 39th Regiment, commenced its progress down the +"Morumbidgee" on the 7th day of January last, having been occupied +twenty-one days in performing the journey from Sydney. + +On the 14th January they entered a new river running from east to west, +now called the "Murray," into which the "Morumbidgee" flows. + +After pursuing the course of the "Murray" for several days, the +expedition observed another river (supposed to be that which Captain +Sturt discovered on his former expedition), uniting with the "Murray" +which they examined about five miles above the junction. + +The expedition again proceeded down the "Murray," and fell in with +another of its tributaries flowing from the south east, which Captain +Sturt has designated the "Lindesay;" and on the 8th February the +"Murray" was found to enter or form a lake, of from fifty to sixty +miles in length, and from thirty to forty in breadth, lying immediately +to the eastward of gulf St. Vincent, and extending to the southward, to +the shore of "Encounter Bay." + +Thus has Captain Sturt added largely, and in a highly important degree, +to the knowledge previously possessed of the interior. + +His former expedition ascertained the fate of the rivers Macquarie and +Castlereagh, on which occasion he also discovered a river which, there +is every reason to believe, is, in ordinary seasons, of considerable +magnitude. + +Should this, as Captain Sturt supposes, prove to be the same river as +that above-mentioned, as uniting with the "Murray," the existence of an +interior water communication for several hundreds of miles, extending +from the northward of "Mount Harris," down to the southern coast of the +colony, will have been established. + +It is to be regretted, that circumstances did not permit of a more +perfect examination of the lake, (which has been called "Alexandrina"), +as the immediate vicinage of Gulf St. Vincent furnishes a just ground +of hope that a more practicable and useful communication may be +discovered in that direction, than the channel which leads into +"Encounter Bay." + +The opportunity of recording a second time the services rendered to the +colony by Captain Sturt, is as gratifying to the government which +directed the undertaking, as it is creditable to the individual who so +successfully conducted it to its termination.--It is an additional +cause of satisfaction to add, that every one, according to his sphere +of action, has a claim to a proportionate degree of applause. All were +exposed alike to the same privations and fatigue, and every one +submitted with patience, manifesting the most anxious desire for the +success of the expedition. The zeal of Mr. George M'Leay, the companion +of Captain Sturt, when example was so important, could not fail to have +the most salutary effect; and the obedience, steadiness, and good +conduct of the men employed, merit the highest praise. + +By his Excellency's command, + +ALEXANDER M'LEAY. + +* * * * * + +BANKS OF THE MORUMBIDGEE, APRIL 20TH, 1830. + +SIR,--The departure of Mr. George M'Leay for Sydney, who is anxious to +proceed homewards as speedily as possible, affords me an earlier +opportunity than would otherwise have presented itself, by which to +make you acquainted with the circumstance of my return, under the +divine protection, to the located districts; and I do myself the honour +of annexing a brief account of my proceedings since the last +communication for the information of His Excellency the Governor, until +such time as I shall have it in my power to give in a more detailed +report. + +On the 7th of January, agreeably to the arrangements which had been +made, I proceeded down the Morumbidgee in the whale boat, with a +complement of six hands, independent of myself and Mr. M'Leay, holding +the skiff in tow. The river, for several days, kept a general W.S.W. +course; it altered little in appearance, nor did any material change +take place in the country upon its banks. The alluvial flats had +occasionally an increased breadth on either side of it, but the line of +reeds was nowhere so extensive as from previous appearances I had been +led to expect. About twelve miles from the depot, we passed a large +creek junction from the N.E. which, from its locality and from the +circumstance of my having been upon it in the direction of them, I +cannot but conclude originates in the marshes of the Lachlan. + +On the 11th, the Morumbidgee became much encumbered with fallen timber, +and its current was at times so rapid that I was under considerable +apprehension for the safety of the boats. The skiff had been upset on +the 8th, and, although I could not anticipate such an accident to the +large boat, I feared she would receive some more serious and +irremediable injury. On the 14th, these difficulties increased upon +us.--The channel of the river became more contracted, and its current +more impetuous. We had no sooner cleared one reach, than fresh and +apparently insurmountable dangers presented themselves to us in the +next. I really feared that every precaution would have proved +unavailing against such multiplied embarrassments, and that ere night +we should have possessed only the wrecks of the expedition. From this +state of anxiety, however, we were unexpectedly relieved, by our +arrival at 2 p.m. at the termination of the Morumbidgee; from which we +were launched into a broad and noble river, flowing from E. to W. at +the rate of two and a half knots per hour, over a clear and sandy bed, +of a medium width of from three to four hundred feet. + +During the first stages of our journey upon this new river, which +evidently had its rise in the mountains of the S.E., we made rapid +progress to the W.N.W. through an unbroken and uninteresting country of +equal sameness of feature and of vegetation. On the 23rd, as the boats +were proceeding down it, several hundreds of natives made their +appearance upon the right bank, having assembled with premeditated +purposes of violence. I was the more surprised at this show of +hostility, because we had passed on general friendly terms, not only +with those on the Morumbidgee, but of the new river. Now, however, +emboldened by numbers, they seemed determined on making the first +attack, and soon worked themselves into a state of frenzy by loud and +vehement shouting. As I observed that the water was shoaling fast, I +kept in the middle of the stream; and, under an impression that it +would be impossible for me to avoid a conflict, prepared for an +obstinate resistance. But, at the very moment when, having arrived +opposite to a large sand bank, on which they had collected, the +foremost of the blacks had already advanced into the water, and I only +awaited their nearer approach to fire upon them, their impetuosity was +restrained by the most unlooked for and unexpected interference. They +held back of a sudden, and allowed us to pass unmolested. The boat, +however, almost immediately grounded on a shoal that stretched across +the river, over which she was with some difficulty hauled into deeper +water,--when we found ourselves opposite to a large junction from the +eastward, little inferior to the river itself. Had I been aware of this +circumstance, I should have been the more anxious with regard to any +rupture with the natives, and I was now happy to find that most of them +had laid aside their weapons and had crossed the junction, it appearing +that they had previously been on a tongue of land formed by the two +streams. I therefore landed among them to satisfy their curiosity and +to distribute a few presents before I proceeded up it. We were obliged +to use the four oars to stem the current against us; but, as soon as we +had passed the mouth, got into deeper water, and found easier pulling, +The parallel in which we struck it, and the direction from which it +came, combined to assure me that this could be no other than the +"Darling." To the distance of two miles it retained a breadth of one +hundred yards and a depth of twelve feet. Its banks were covered with +verdure, and the trees overhanging them were of finer and larger growth +than those on the new river by which we had approached it. Its waters +had a shade of green, and were more turbid than those of its +neighbours, but they were perfectly sweet to the taste. + +Having satisfied myself on those points on which I was most anxious, we +returned to the junction to examine it more closely. + +The angle formed by the Darling with the new river is so acute, that +neither can be said to be tributary to the other; but more important +circumstances, upon which it is impossible for me to dwell at the +present moment, mark them as distinct rivers, which have been formed by +Nature for the same purposes, in remote and opposite parts of the +island. Not having as yet given a name to the latter, I now availed +myself of the opportunity of complying with the known wishes of His +Excellency the Governor, and, at the same time, in accordance with my +own feelings as a soldier I distinguished it by that of the "Murray." + +It had been my object to ascertain the decline of the vast plain +through which the Murray flows, that I might judge of the probable fall +of the waters of the interior; but by the most attentive observation I +could not satisfy myself upon the point. The course of the Darling now +confirmed my previous impression that it was to the south, which +direction it was evident the Murray also, in the subsequent stages of +our journey down it, struggled to preserve; from which it was thrown by +a range of minor elevations into a more westerly one. We were carried +as far as 139 degrees 40 minutes of longitude, without descending below +34 degrees in point of latitude; in consequence of which I expected +that the river would ultimately discharge itself, either into St. +Vincent's Gulf or that of Spencer, more especially as lofty ranges were +visible in the direction of them from the summit of the hills behind +our camp, on the 2nd of February, which I laid down as the coast line +bounding them. + +A few days prior to the 2nd of February, we passed under some cliffs of +partial volcanic origin, and had immediately afterwards entered a +limestone country of the most singular formation. The river, although +we had passed occasional rapids of the most dangerous kind, had +maintained a sandy character from our first acquaintance with it to the +limestone division. It now forced itself through a glen of that rock of +half a mile in width, frequently striking precipices of more than two +hundred feet perpendicular elevation, in which coral and fossil remains +were plentifully embedded. On the 3rd February it made away to the +eastward of south, in reaches of from two to four miles in length. It +gradually lost its sandy bed, and became deep, still, and turbid; the +glen expanded into a valley, and the alluvial flats, which had hitherto +been of inconsiderable size, became proportionally extensive. The +Murray increased in breadth to more than four hundred yards, with a +depth of twenty feet of water close into the shore, and in fact formed +itself into a safe and navigable stream for any vessels of the minor +class. On the 6th the cliffs partially ceased, and on the 7th they gave +place to undulating and picturesque hills, beneath which thousands of +acres of the richest flats extended, covered, however, with reeds, and +apparently subject to overflow at any unusual rise of the river. + +It is remarkable that the view from the hills was always confined.--We +were apparently running parallel to a continuation of the ranges we had +seen on the 2nd, but they were seldom visible. The country generally +seemed darkly wooded, and had occasional swells upon it, but it was one +of no promise; the timber, chiefly box and pine, being of a poor +growth, and its vegetation languid. On the 8th the hills upon the left +wore a bleak appearance, and the few trees upon them were cut down as +if by the prevailing winds. At noon we could not observe any land at +the extremity of a reach we had just entered; some gentle hills still +continued to form the left lank of the river, but the right was hid +from us by high reeds. I consequently landed to survey the country from +the nearest eminence, and found that we were just about to enter an +extensive lake which stretched away to the S.W., the line of water +meeting the horizon in that direction. Some tolerably lofty ranges were +visible to the westward at the distance of forty miles, beneath which +that shore was lost in haze. A hill, which I prejudged to be Mount +Lofty, bearing by compass S. 141 degrees W. More to the northward, the +country was low and unbacked by any elevations. A bold promontory, +which projected into the lake at the distance of seven leagues, ended +the view to the south along the eastern shore; between which and the +river the land also declined. The prospect altogether was extremely +gratifying, and the lake appeared to be a fitting reservoir for the +whole stream which had led us to it. + +In the evening we passed the entrance; but a strong southerly wind +heading us, we did not gain more than nine miles. In the morning it +shifted to the N.E. where we stood out for the promontory on a S.S.W. +course. At noon we were abreast of it, when a line of sand hummocks was +ahead, scarcely visible in consequence of the great refraction about +them; but an open sea behind us from the N.N.W. to the N.N.E. points of +the compass. A meridian altitude observed here, placed us in 35 degrees +25 minutes 15 seconds S. lat.--At 1, I changed our course a little to +the westward, and at 4 p.m. entered an arm of the lake leading W.S.W. +On the point, at the entrance, some natives had assembled, but I could +not communicate with them. They were both painted and armed, and +evidently intended to resist our landing. Wishing, however, to gain +some information from them, I proceeded a short distance below their +haunt, and landed for the night, in hopes that, seeing us peaceably +disposed, they would have approached the tents; but as they kept aloof, +we continued our journey in the morning. The water, which had risen ten +inches during the night, had fallen again in the same proportion, and +we were stopped by shoals shortly after starting. In hopes that the +return of tide would have enabled us to float over them, we waited for +it very patiently, but were ultimately obliged to drag the boat across +a mud-flat of more than a quarter of a mile into deeper water; but, +after a run of about twenty minutes, were again checked by sand banks. +My endeavours to push beyond a certain point were unsuccessful, and I +was at length under the necessity of landing upon the south shore for +the night. Some small hummocks were behind us, on the other side of +which I had seen the ocean from our morning's position; and whilst the +men were pitching the tents, walked over them in company with Mr. +M'Leay to the sea shore, having struck the coast at Encounter Bay, Cape +Jervis, bearing by compass S. 81 degrees W. distant between three and +four leagues, and Kangaroo Island S.E. extremity S. 60 degrees W. +distant from nine to ten. + +Thirty-two days had elapsed since we had left the depot, and I +regretted in this stage of our journey, that I could not with prudence +remain an hour longer on the coast than was necessary for me to +determine the exit of the lake. From the angle of the channel on which +we were, a bright sand-hill was visible at about nine miles distance to +the E.S.E.; which, it struck me, was the eastern side of the passage +communicating with the ocean. Having failed in our attempts to proceed +further in the boat, and the appearance of the shoals at low water +having convinced me of the impracticability of it, I determined on an +excursion along the sea-shore to the southward and eastward, in anxious +hopes that it would be a short one; for as we had had a series of winds +from the S.W. which had now changed to the opposite quarter, I feared +we should have to pull across the lake in our way homewards. I left the +camp therefore at an early hour, in company with Mr. M'Leay and Fraser, +and at day-break arrived opposite to the sand-bank I have mentioned. +Between us and it the entrance into the back water ran. The passage is +at all periods of the tide rather more than a quarter of a mile in +width, and is of sufficient depth for a boat to enter, especially on +the off side; but a line of dangerous breakers in the bay will always +prevent an approach to it from the sea, except in the calmest weather, +whilst the bay itself will always be a hazardous place for any vessels +to enter under any circumstances. + +Having, however, satisfactorily concluded our pursuit, we retraced our +steps to the camp, and again took the following bearings as we left the +beach, the strand trending E.S.E. 1/2 E.:-- + + Kangaroo Island, S.E. angle S. 60 degrees W. + Low rocky point of Cape Jervis S. 81 degrees W. + Round Hill in centre of Range S. 164 degrees W. + Camp, distant one mile S. 171 degrees W. + Mount Lofty, distant forty miles N. 9 degrees E. + +Before setting sail, a bottle was deposited between four and five feet +deep in a mound of soft earth and shells, close to the spot on which +the tent had stood, which contained a paper of the names of the party, +together with a simple detail of our arrival and departure. + +It appeared that the good fortune, which had hitherto attended us was +still to continue, for the wind which had been contrary, chopped round +to the S.W., and ere sunset we were again in the mouth of the river, +having run from fifty to sixty miles under as much canvass as the boat +would bear, and with a heavy swell during the greater part of the day. + +The lake which has thus terminated our journey, is from fifty to sixty +miles in length, and from thirty to forty in width. With such an +expanse of water, I am correct in stating its medium depth at four +feet. There is a large bight in it to the S.E. and a beautiful and +extensive bay to the N.W. At about seven miles from the mouth of the +river, its waters are brackish, and at twenty-one miles they are quite +salt, whilst seals frequent the lower parts. Considering this lake to +be of sufficient importance, and in anticipation that its shores will, +during her reign, if not at an earlier period, be peopled by some +portion of her subjects, I have called it, in well-meant loyalty, "The +Lake Alexandrina." + +It is remarkable that the Murray has few tributaries below the Darling. +It receives one, however, of considerable importance from the S.E., to +which I have given the name of the "Lindesay," as a mark of respect to +my commanding-officer, and in remembrance of the many acts of kindness +I have received at his hands. + +Having dwelt particularly on the nature of the country through which +the expedition has passed in the pages of my journal, it may be +unnecessary for me to enter into any description of it in this place, +further than to observe, that the limestone continued down to the very +coast, and that although the country in the neighbourhood of the Lake +Alexandrina must, from local circumstances, be rich in point of soil, +the timber upon it is of stunted size, and that it appears to have +suffered from drought, though not to the same extent with the eastern +coast. It is evident, however, that its vicinity to high lands does not +altogether exempt it from such periodical visitations; still I have no +doubt that my observations upon it will convince His Excellency the +Governor, that it is well worthy of a closer, and more attentive +examination, than I had it in my power to make. + +In a geographical point of view, I am happy to believe that the result +of this expedition has been conclusive; and that, combined with the +late one, it has thrown much light upon the nature of the interior of +the vast Island; that the decline of waters, as far as the parallel of +139 degrees E., is to the south, and that the Darling is to the N.E. as +the Murray is to the S.E. angle of the coast, the main channel by which +the waters of the central ranges are thrown or discharged into one +great reservoir. + +Our journey homewards was only remarkable for its labour: in +conclusion, therefore, it remains for me to add that we reached the +depot on the 23rd of March. + +Our sugar failed us on the 18th of February, and our salt provisions, +in consequence of the accident which happened to the skiff, on the 8th +of March; so that from the above period we were living on a reduced +ration of flour; and as we took few fish, and were generally +unsuccessful with our guns, the men had seldom more than their bread to +eat. + +I regretted to observe that they were daily falling off, and that +although unremitting in their exertions they were well nigh exhausted, +ere we reached the Morumbidgee. + +We were from sunrise to five o'clock on the water, and from the day +that we left the depot to that of our return we never rested upon our +oars. We were thirty-nine days gaining the depot from the coast, +against a strong current in both rivers, being seven more than it took +us to go down. From the depot to this station we had seventeen days +hard pulling, making a total of eighty-eight, during which time we +could not have travelled over less than 2000 miles. I was under the +necessity of stopping short on the 10th instant, and of detaching two +men for the drays, which happily arrived on the 17th, on which day our +stock of flour failed us. Had I not adopted this plan, the men would +have become too weak to have pulled up to Pondebadgery, and we should +no doubt have suffered some privations. + +This detail will, I am sure, speak more in favour of the men composing +the party than anything I can say. I would most respectfully recommend +them all to His Excellency's notice; and I beg to assure him that, +during the whole of this arduous journey, they were cheerful, zealous, +and obedient. They had many harassing duties to perform, and their +patience and temper were often put to severe trials by the natives, of +whom we could not have seen fewer than 4000 on the Murray alone. + +I am to refer His Excellency the Governor to Mr. M'Leay for any more +immediate information he may require,--to whom I stand indebted on many +points--and not less in the anxiety he evinced for the success of the +undertaking, than in the promptitude with which he assisted in the +labours attendant on our return, and his uniform kindness to the men. + + I have the honour to subscribe myself, + Sir, + Your most obedient humble Servant, + CHARLES STURT, + Captain of the 39th Regt. + +The Hon. the Colonial Secretary. + + + +END OF VOLUME II + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Two Expeditions in the Interior of +Southern Australia, Volume II, by Charles Sturt + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TWO EXPEDITIONS--SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA *** + +***** This file should be named 4329.txt or 4329.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/4/3/2/4329/ + +Produced by Col Choat. 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FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.10/04/01*END* + + + + + + +This etext was produced by Col Choat colc@gutenberg.net.au. + + + + +This etext was produced by Col Choat colc@gutenberg.net.au. + + + + + +TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA DURING THE YEARS +1828,1829,1830,1831 WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOIL, CLIMATE AND GENERAL +RESOURCES OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES. + +IN TWO VOLUMES + +VOLUME II. + + +"For though most men are contented only to see a river as it runs by +them, and talk of the changes in it as they happen; when it is troubled, +or when clear; when it drowns the country in a flood, or forsakes it in a +drought: yet he that would know the nature of the water, and the causes of +those accidents (so as to guess at their continuance or return), must find +out its source, and observe with what strength it rises, what length it +runs, and how many small streams fall in, and feed it to such a height, +as make it either delightful or terrible to the eye, and useful or +dangerous to the country about it."...SIR WILLIAM TEMPLE'S NETHERLANDS. + + + + + +CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME + +EXPEDITION DOWN THE MORUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY RIVERS, IN 1829, 1830 AND 1831. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Introductory--Remarks on the results of the former Expedition--The +fitting out of another determined on--Its objects--Provisions, +accoutrements, and retinue--Paper furnished by Mr. Kent--Causes that have +prevented the earlier appearance of the present work. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Commencement of the expedition in November, 1829.--Joined by Mr. George +M'Leay--Appearance of the party--Breadalbane Plains--Hospitality of Mr. +O'Brien--Yass Plains--Hill of Pouni--Path of a hurricane--Character of the +country between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee--Appearance of that river-- +Junction of the Dumot with it--Crossing and recrossing--Geological +character and general aspect of the country--Plain of Pondebadgery--Few +natives seen. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Character of the Morumbidgee where it issues from the hilly country-- +Appearance of approach to swamps--Hamilton Plains--Intercourse with the +natives--Their appearance, customs, &c.--Change in the character of the +river--Mirage-- Dreariness of the country--Ride towards the Lachlan river +--Two boats built and launched on the Morumbidgee; and the drays, with +part of the men sent back to Goulburn Plains. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Embarkation of the party in the boats, and voyage down the Morumbidgee-- +The skiff swamped by striking on a sunken tree--Recovery of boat and its +loading--Region of reeds--Dangers of the navigation--Contraction of the +channel--Reach the junction of a large river--Intercourse with the natives +on its banks--Character of the country below the junction of the rivers-- +Descent of a dangerous rapid--Warlike demonstrations of a tribe of +natives--Unexpected deliverance from a conflict with them--Junction of +another river--Give the name of the "Murray" to the principal stream. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Character of the country--Damage of provisions--Adroitness of the natives +in catching fish--The skiff broken up--Stream from the North-East supposed +to be the Darling--Change of country in descending the river--Intercourse +with the natives--Prevalence of loathsome diseases among them--Apparent +populousness of the country--Junction of several small streams--The Rufus, +the Lindesay, &c.--Rainy and tempestuous weather--Curious appearance of +the banks--Troublesomeness of the natives--Inhospitable and desolate +aspect of the country--Condition of the men--Change in the geological +character of the country--The river passes through a valley among hills. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Improvement in the aspect of the country--Increase of the river--Strong +westerly gales--Chronometer broken--A healthier tribe of natives-- +Termination of the Murray in a large lake--Its extent and environs-- +Passage across it--Hostile appearance of the natives-- Beautiful scenery +--Channel from the lake to the sea at Encounter Bay--Reach the beach-- +Large flocks of water fowl--Curious refraction--State of provisions-- +Embarrassing situation--Inspection of the channel to the ocean--Weak +condition of the men--Difficulties of the return. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Valley of the Murray--Its character and capabilities--Laborious progress +up the river--Accident to the boat--Perilous collision with the natives +--Turbid current of the Rufus--Passage of the Rapids--Assisted by the +natives--Dangerous intercourse with them--Re-enter the Morumbidgee-- +Verdant condition of its banks--Nocturnal encounter with the natives-- +Interesting manifestation of feeling in one family--Reach the spot where +the party had embarked on the river--Men begin to fail entirely-- +Determine to send two men forward for relief--Their return--Excursion on +horseback--Reach Pondebadgery Plain, and meet the supplies from the +colony--Cannibalism of the natives--Return to Sydney--Concluding remarks. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Environs of the lake Alexandrina--Appointment of Capt. Barker to make a +further survey of the coast near Encounter Bay--Narrative of his +proceedings--Mount Lofty, Mount Barker, and beautiful country adjacent-- +Australian salmon--Survey of the coast--Outlet of lake to the sea-- +Circumstances that led to the slaughter of Capt. Barker by the natives-- +His character--Features of this part of the country and capabilities of +its coasts--Its adaptation for colonization--Suggestions for the +furtherance of future Expeditions. + + +APPENDIX. + +No. I. Geological Specimens found to the south-west of Port Jackson +No. II. Official Report to the Colonial Government + + +ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME +(Not included in this etext) + +View on the Morumbidgee River +Junction of the supposed Darling with the Murray +Palaeornis Melanura, or Black Tailed Paroquet +Pomatorhinus Temporalis +Pomatorhinus Superciliosus +Chart of Cape Jervis, and Encounter Bay +Mass of Fossils of the Tertiary Formation +Bulla +Conus +Genus Unknown +Chrystallized Selenite +Selenite +Single Fossils of the Tertiary Formation + + + + +EXPEDITION DOWN THE MORUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY RIVERS, IN 1829, 1830 AND 1831. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + +Introductory + + +Remarks on the results of the former Expedition--The fitting out of +another determined on--Its objects--Provisions, accoutrements, and +retinue--Paper furnished by Mr. Kent--Causes that have prevented the +earlier appearance of the present work. + +OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION. + +The expedition of which we have just detailed the proceedings was so far +satisfactory in its results, that it not only set at rest the hypothesis +of the existence of an internal shoal sea in southern Australia, and +ascertained the actual termination of the rivers it had been directed to +trace, but also added very largely to our knowledge of the country +considerably to the westward of former discoveries. And although no land +had been traversed of a fertile description of sufficient extent to invite +the settler, the fact of a large river such as the Darling lying at the +back of our almost intertropical settlements, gave a fresh importance to +the distant interior. It was evident that this river was the chief drain +for carrying off the waters falling westerly from the eastern coast, and +as its course indicated a decline of country diametrically opposite to +that which had been calculated upon, it became an object of great +importance to ascertain its further direction. Had not the saline quality +of its waters been accounted for, by the known existence of brine springs +in its bed, it would have been natural to have supposed that it +communicated with some mediterranean sea; but, under existing +circumstances, it remained to be proved whether this river held on a due +south course, or whether it ultimately turned westerly, and ran into the +heart of the interior. In order fully to determine this point, it would be +necessary to regain it banks, so far below the parallel to which it had +been traced as to leave no doubt of its identity; but it was difficult to +fix upon a plan for approaching that central stream without suffering from +the want of water, since it could hardly be expected that the Lachlan +would afford such means, as it was reasonable to presume that its +termination was very similar to that of the Macquarie. The attention of +the government was, consequently, fixed upon the Morumbidgee, a river +stated to be of considerable size and of impetuous current. Receiving its +supplies from the lofty ranges behind Mount Dromedary, it promised to hold +a longer course than those rivers which, depending on periodical rains +alone for existence, had been found so soon to exhaust themselves. + +PREPARATIONS. + +The fitting out of another expedition was accordingly determined upon; and +about the end of September 1829, I received the Governor's instructions to +make the necessary preparations for a second descent into the interior, +for the purpose of tracing the Morumbidgee, or such rivers as it might +prove to be connected with, as far as practicable. In the event of failure +in this object, it was hoped that an attempt to regain the banks of the +Darling on a N.W. course from the point at which the expedition might be +thwarted in its primary views, would not be unattended with success. Under +any circumstances, however, by pursuing these measures, an important part +of the colony would necessarily be traversed, of which the features were +as yet altogether unknown. + +It became my interest and my object to make the expedition as complete as +possible, and, as far as in me lay, to provide for every contingency: and +as it appeared to me that, in all likelihood, we should in one stage or +other of our journey have to trust entirely to water conveyance, I +determined on taking a whale-boat, whose dimensions and strength should in +some measure be proportioned to the service required. I likewise +constructed a small still for the distillation of water, in the event of +our finding the water of the Darling salt, when we should reach its banks. +The whale-boat, after being fitted, was taken to pieces for more +convenient carriage, as has been more particularly detailed in the last +chapter of the preceding volume. + +So little danger had been apprehended from the natives in the former +journey, that three firelocks had been considered sufficient for our +defence. On the present occasion, however, I thought it adviseable to +provide arms for each individual. + +Mr. Hume declined accompanying me, as the harvest was at hand. Mr. George +M'Leay therefore supplied his place, rather as a companion than as an +assistant; and of those who accompanied me down the banks of the +Macquarie, I again selected Harris (my body servant), Hopkinson, and +Fraser. + +MR. KENT'S REPORT. + +The concluding chapter of this volume, relative to the promontory of +St. Vincent, or Cape Jarvis, has been furnished me by the kindness of +Mr. Kent, who accompanied the lamented officer to whom the further +exploration of that part of coast unhappily proved fatal. There is a +melancholy coincidence between Captain Barker's death and that of Captain +Cook, which cannot fail to interest the public, as the information that +has been furnished will call for their serious consideration. I shall +leave for their proper place, the remarks I have to offer upon it, since +my motive in these prefatory observations has been, to carry the reader +forward to that point at which he will have to view the proceedings of the +expedition alone, in order the more satisfactorily to arrive at their +results. And, although he must expect a considerable portion of dry +reading in the following pages, I have endeavoured to make the narrative +of events, some of which are remarkably striking, as interesting as +possible. + +REMARKS ON THE PRESENT WORK; DELIVERANCE FROM DANGERS. + +It only remains for me to refer the reader to the concluding chapter of +the preceding volume, for such general information as I have been enabled +to furnish upon the nature of the services on which I was employed, and on +the manner of conducting similar expeditions. Indeed, I trust that this +book (whatever be its defects) will be found to contain much valuable +information of a practical character, and I may venture to affirm, that it +will give a true description of the country, and of the various other +subjects of which it treats. + +Notwithstanding that I have in my dedication alluded to the causes that +prevented the earlier appearance of this work, I feel it due both to +myself and the public here to state, that during these expeditions my +health had suffered so much, that I was unable to bear up against the +effects of exposure, bodily labour, poverty of diet, and the anxiety of +mind to which I was subjected. A residence on Norfolk Island, under +peculiarly harassing circumstances, completed that which the above causes +had commenced; and, after a succession of attacks, I became totally blind, +and am still unable either to read what I pen, or to venture abroad +without an attendant. When it is recollected, that I have been unassisted +in this work in any one particular, I hope some excuse will be found for +its imperfections. A wish to contribute to the public good led me to +undertake those journeys which have cost me so much. The same feeling +actuates me in recording their results; and I have the satisfaction to +know, that my path among a large and savage population was a bloodless +one; and that my intercourse with them was such as to lessen the danger to +future adventurers upon such hazardous enterprises, and to give them hope +where I had so often despaired. Something more powerful, than human +foresight or human prudence, appeared to avert the calamities and dangers +with which I and my companions were so frequently threatened; and had it +not been for the guidance and protection we received from the Providence +of that good and all-wise Being to whose care we committed ourselves, we +should, ere this, have ceased to rank among the number of His earthly +creatures. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + +Commencement of the expedition in November, 1829.--Joined by Mr. George +M'Leay--Appearance of the party--Breadalbane Plains--Hospitality of Mr. +O'Brien--Yass Plains--Hill of Pouni--Path of a hurricane--Character of the +country between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee--Appearance of that river-- +Junction of the Dumot with it--Crossing and recrossing--Geological +character and general aspect of the country--Plain of Pondebadgery--Few +natives seen. + + +The expedition which traversed the marshes of the Macquarie, left Sydney +on the 10th day of Nov. 1828. That destined to follow the waters of the +Morumbidgee, took its departure from the same capital on the 3rd of the +same month in the ensuing year. Rain had fallen in the interval, but not +in such quantities as to lead to the apprehension that it had either +influenced or swollen the western streams. It was rather expected that the +winter falls would facilitate the progress of the expedition, and it was +hoped that, as the field of its operations would in all probability be +considerably to the south of the parallel of Port Jackson, the extreme +heat to which the party and the animals had been exposed on the former +journey, would be lees felt on the present occasion. + +As there was no Government establishment to the S.W. at which I could +effect any repairs, or recruit my supplies, as I had done at Wellington +Valley, the expedition, when it left Sydney, was completed in every +branch, and was so fully provided with every necessary implement and +comfort, as to render any further aid, even had such been attainable, in a +great measure unnecessary. The Governor had watched over my preparations +with a degree of anxiety that evidenced the interest he felt in the +expedition, and his arrangements to ensure, as far as practicable, our +being met on our return, in the event of our being in distress, were +equally provident and satisfactory. It was not, however, to the providing +for our wants in the interior alone that His Excellency's views were +directed, but orders were given to hold a vessel in readiness, to be +dispatched at a given time to St. Vincent's Gulf, in case we should +ultimately succeed in making the south coast in its neighbourhood. + +LEAVE SYDNEY. + +The morning on which I left Sydney a second time, under such doubtful +circumstances, was perfectly serene and clear. I found myself at 5 a.m. of +that delightful morning leading my horses through the gates of those +barracks whose precincts I might never again enter, and whose inmates I +might never again behold assembled in military array. Yet, although the +chance of misfortune flashed across my mind, I was never lighter at heart, +or more joyous in spirit. It appeared to me that the stillness and harmony +of nature influenced my feelings on the occasion, and my mind forgot the +storms of life, as nature at that moment seemed to have forgotten the +tempests that sometimes agitate her. + +APPEARANCE OF THE PARTY. + +I proceeded direct to the house of my friend Mr. J. Deas Thomson, who had +agreed to accompany me to Brownlow Hill, a property belonging to +Mr. M'Leay, the Colonial Secretary, where his son, Mr. George M'Leay, was +to join the expedition. As soon as we had taken a hasty breakfast, I went +to the carters' barracks to superintend the first loading of the animals. +Mr. Murray, the superintendent, had arranged every article so well, and +had loaded the drays so compactly that I had no trouble, and little time +was lost in saddling the pack animals. At a quarter before 7 the party +filed through the turnpike-gate, and thus commenced its journey with the +greatest regularity. I have the scene, even at this distance of time, +vividly impressed upon my mind, and I have no doubt the kind friend who +was near me on the occasion, bears it as strongly on his recollection. +My servant Harris, who had shared my wanderings and had continued in my +service for eighteen years, led the advance, with his companion Hopkinson. +Nearly abreast of them the eccentric Fraser stalked along wholly lost in +thought. The two former had laid aside their military habits, and had +substituted the broad brimmed hat and the bushman's dress in their place, +but it was impossible to guess how Fraser intended to protect himself from +the heat or the damp, so little were his habiliments suited for the +occasion. He had his gun over his shoulder, and his double shot belt as +full as it could be of shot, although there was not a chance of his +expending a grain during the day. Some dogs Mr. Maxwell had kindly sent me +followed close at his heels, as if they knew his interest in them, and +they really seemed as if they were aware that they were about to exchange +their late confinement for the freedom of the woods. The whole of these +formed a kind of advanced guard. At some distance in the rear the drays +moved slowly along, on one of which rode the black boy mentioned in my +former volume, and behind them followed the pack animals. Robert Harris, +whom I had appointed to superintend the animals generally, kept his place +near the horses, and the heavy Clayton, my carpenter, brought up the rear. +I shall not forget the interest Thomson appeared to take in a scene that +must certainly have been new to him. Our progress was not checked by the +occurrence of a single accident, nor did I think it necessary to remain +with the men after we had gained that turn which, at about four miles from +Sydney, branches off to the left, and leads direct to Liverpool. From this +Point my companion and I pushed forward, in order to terminate a fifty +miles' ride a little sooner than we should have done at the leisurely pace +we had kept during the early part of our journey. We remained in Liverpool +for a short time, to prepare the commissariat office for the reception, +and to ensure the accommodation, of the party; and reached Brownlow Hill +a little after sunset. + +LIVERPOOL-GOULBURN PLAINS. + +As I have already described the country on this line of road as far us +Goulburn Plains, it will not be considered necessary that I should again +notice its features with minuteness. + +WALLANDILLY-TYRANNA. + +The party arrived at Glendarewel, the farm attached to Brownlow Hill, on +the 5th. I resumed my journey alone on the 8th. M'Leay had still some few +arrangements to make, so that I dispensed with his immediate attendance. +He overtook me, however, sooner than I expected, on the banks of the +Wallandilly. I had encamped under the bluff end of Cookbundoon, and, +having been disappointed in getting bearings when crossing the Razor Back, +I hoped that I should be enabled to connect a triangle from the summit +of Cookbundoon, or to secure bearings of some prominent hill to the south. +I found the brush, however, so thick on the top of the mountain, that I +could obtain no satisfactory view, and and M'Leay, who accompanied me, +agreed with me in considering that we were but ill repaid for the hot +scramble we had had. Crossing the western extremity of Goulburn Plains on +the 15th, we encamped on a chain of ponds behind Doctor Gibson's residence +at Tyranna, and as I had some arrangements to make with that gentleman, +I determined to give both the men and animals a day's rest. I availed +myself of Doctor Gibson's magazines to replace such of my provisions as I +had expended, as I found that I could do so without putting him to any +inconvenience; and I added two of his men to the party, intending to send +them back, in case of necessity, or, when we should have arrived at that +point from which it might appear expedient to forward an account of my +progress and ultimate views, for the governor's information. + +On the 17th we struck the tents, and, crossing the chain of ponds near +which they had been pitched, entered a forest track, that gave place to +barren stony ridges of quartz formation. These continued for six or seven +miles, in the direction of Breadalbane Plains, upon which we were obliged +to stop, as we should have had some difficulty in procuring either water +or food, within any moderate distance beyond them. The water, indeed, that +we were obliged to content ourselves with was by no means good. +Breadalbane Plains are of inconsiderable extent, and are surrounded by +ridges, the appearance of which is not very promising. Large white masses +of quartz rock lie scattered over them, amongst trees of stunted growth. +Mr. Redall's farm was visible at the further extremity of the plains from +that by which we had entered them. It would appear that these plains are +connected with Goulburn Plains by a narrow valley, that was too wet for +the drays to have traversed. + +BREADALBANE PLAINS. + +Doctor Gibson had kindly accompanied us to Breadalbane Plains. On the +morning of the 18th he returned to Tyranna, and we pursued our journey, +keeping mostly on a W.S.W. course. From the barren hills over which we +passed, on leaving the plains, we descended upon an undulating country, +and found a change of rock, as well as of vegetation, upon it. Granite and +porphyry constituted its base. An open forest, on which the eucalyptus +mannifera alone prevailed, lay on either side of us, and although the soil +was coarse, and partook in a great measure of the decomposition of the +rock it covered, there was no deficiency of grass. On the contrary, this +part of the interior is decidedly well adapted for pasturing cattle. + +THE LORN. + +About 1 p.m. we passed Mr. Hume's station, with whom I remained for a +short time. He had fixed his establishment on the banks of the Lorn, a +small river, issuing from the broken country near Lake George, and now +ascertained to be one of the largest branches of the Lachlan River. We had +descended a barren pass of stringy bark scrub, on sandstone rock, a little +before we reached Mr. Hume's station, but around it the same, open forest +tract again prevailed. We crossed the Lorn, at 2 o'clock, leaving +Mr. Broughton's farm upon our left, and passed through a broken country, +which was very far from being deficient in pasture. We encamped on the +side of a water-course, about 4 o'clock, having travelled about fifteen +miles. + +On the 19th, we observed no change in the soil or aspect of the country, +for the first five miles. The eucalyptus mannifera was the most prevalent +of the forest trees, and certainly its presence indicated a more +flourishing state in the minor vegetation. At about five miles, however, +from where we had slept, sandstone reappeared, and with it the barren +scrub that usually grows upon a sandy and inhospitable soil. One of the +drays was upset in its progress down a broken pass, where the road had +been altogether neglected, and it was difficult to avoid accidents. +Fortunately we suffered no further than in the delay that the necessity of +unloading the dray, and reloading it, occasioned. Mr. O'Brien, an +enterprising settler, who had pushed his flocks to the banks of the +Morumbidgee, and who was proceeding to visit his several stations, +overtook us in the midst of our troubles. We had already passed each other +frequently on the road, but he now preceded me to his establishment at +Yass; at which I proposed remaining for a day. We stopped about three +miles short of the plains for the night, at the gorge of the pass through +which we had latterly been advancing, and had gradually descended to a +more open country. From the place at which we were temporarily delayed, +and which is not inappropriately called the Devil's Pass, the road winds +about between ranges, differing in every respect from any we had as yet +noticed. The sides of the hills were steeper, and their summits sharper, +than any we had crossed. They were thickly covered with eucalypti and +brush, and, though based upon sandstone, were themselves of a schistose +formation. + +YASS PLAINS. + +Yharr or Yass Plains were discovered by Mr. Hovel, and Mr. Hume, the +companion of my journey down the Macquarie, in 1828. They take their name +from the little river that flows along their north and north-west +boundaries. They are surrounded on every side by forests, and excepting to +the W.N.W., as a central point, by hill. Undulating, but naked themselves, +they have the appearance of open downs, and are most admirably adapted for +sheep-walks, not only in point of vegetation, but also, because their +inequalities prevent their becoming swampy during the rainy season. They +are from nine to twelve miles in length and from five to seven in breadth, +and although large masses of sandstone are scattered over them, a blue +secondary limestone composes the general bed of the river, that was darker +in colour and more compact than I had remarked the same kind of rock, +either at Wellington Valley, or in the Shoal Haven Gully. I have no doubt +that Yass Plains will ere long be wholly taken up as sheep-walks, and that +their value to the grazier will in a great measure counterbalance its +distance from the coast, or, more properly speaking, from the capital. +Sheep I should imagine would thrive uncommonly well upon these plains, +and would suffer less from distempers incidental to locality and to +climate, than in many parts of the colony over which they are now +wandering in thousands. And if the plains themselves do not afford +extensive arable tracts, there is, at least, sufficient good land near the +river to supply the wants of a numerous body of settlers. + +HOSPITALITY OF MR. O'BRIEN. + +We left Mr. O'Brien's station on the morning of the 21st, and, agreeably +to his advice, determined on gaining the Morumbidgee, by a circuit to the +N.W., rather than endanger the safety of the drays by entering the +mountain passes to the westward. Mr. O'Brien, however, would not permit us +to depart from his dwelling without taking away with us some further +proofs of his hospitality. The party had pushed forward before I, or +Mr. M'Leay, had mounted our horses; but on overtaking it, we found that +eight fine wethers had been added to our stock of animals. + +HILL OF POUNI; ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. + +To the W.N.W. of Yass Plains there is a remarkable hill, called Pouni, +remarkable not so much on account of its height, as of its commanding +position. It had, I believe, already been ascended by one of the +Surveyor-general's assistants. The impracticability of the country to the +south of it, obliged us to pass under its opposite base, from which an +open forest country extended to the northward. We had already recrossed +the Yass River, and passed Mr. Barber's station, to that of Mr. Hume's +father, at which we stopped for a short time. Both farms are well +situated, the latter I should say, romantically so, it being immediately +under Pouni, the hill we have noticed. The country around both was open, +and both pasture and water were abundant. + +Mr. O'Brien had been kind enough to send one of the natives who frequented +his station to escort us to his more advanced station upon the +Morumbidgee. Had it not been for the assistance we received from this man, +I should have had but little leisure for other duties: as it was however, +there was no fear of the party going astray. This gave M'Leay and myself +an opportunity of ascending Pouni, for the purpose of taking bearings; and +how ever warm the exertion of the ascent made us, the view from the summit +of the hill sufficiently repaid us, and the cool breeze that struck it, +although imperceptible in the forest below, soon dried the perspiration +from our brows. The scenery around us was certainly varied, yet many +parts of it put me forcibly in mind of the dark and gloomy tracks over +which my eye had wandered from similar elevations on the former journey. +This was especially the case in looking to the north, towards which point +the hills forming the right of the valley by which we had entered the +plains, decreased so rapidly in height that they were lost in the general +equality of the more remote country, almost ere they had reached abreast +of my position. From E.S.E. to W.S.W. the face of the country was hilly, +broken and irregular; forming deep ravines and precipitous glens, amid +which I was well aware the Morumbidgee was still struggling for freedom; +while mountains succeeded mountains in the back-ground, and were +themselves overtopped by lofty and very distant peaks. To the eastward, +however, the hills wore a more regular form, and were lightly covered with +wood. The plains occupied the space between them and Pouni; and a smaller +plain bore N.N.E. which, being embosomed in the forest, had hitherto +escaped our notice. + +We overtook the party just as it cleared the open ground through which it +had previously been moving. A barren scrub succeeded it for about eight +miles. The soil in this scrub was light and sandy. + +We stopped for the night at the head of a valley that seemed to have been +well trodden by cattle. The feed, therefore, was not abundant, nor was the +water good. We had, however, made a very fair journey, and I was unwilling +to press the animals. But in consequence, I fancy, of the scarcity of +food, they managed to creep away during the night, with the exception of +three or four of the bullocks, nor should we have collected them again so +soon as we did, or without infinite trouble, had it not been for our guide +and my black boy. We unavoidably lost a day, but left our position on the +23rd, for Underaliga, a station occupied by Doctor Harris, the gentleman I +have already had occasion to mention. We reached the banks of the creek +near the stock hut, about 4 p.m., having journeyed during the greater part +of the day through a poor country, partly of scrub and partly of open +forest-land, in neither of which was the soil or vegetation fresh or +abundant. At about three miles from Underaliga, the country entirely +changed its character, and its flatness was succeeded by a broken and +undulating surface. The soil upon the hills was coarse and sandy, from the +decomposition of the granite rock that constituted their base. +Nevertheless, the grass was abundant on the hills, though the roots or +tufts were far apart; and the hills were lightly studded with trees. + +COURSE OF A HURRICANE. + +In the course of the day we crossed the line of a hurricane that had just +swept with resistless force over the country, preserving a due north +course, and which we had heard from a distance, fortunately too great to +admit of its injuring us. It had opened a fearful gap in the forest +through which it had passed, of about a quarter of a mile in breadth. +Within that space, no tree had been able to withstand its fury, for it had +wrenched every bough from such as it had failed to prostrate, and they +stood naked in the midst of the surrounding wreck. I am inclined to think +that the rudeness of nature itself in these wild and uninhabited regions, +gives birth to these terrific phenomena. They have never occurred, so far +as I know, in the located districts. Our guide deserted us in the early +part of the day without assigning any reason for doing so. He went off +without being noticed, and thus lost the reward that would have been +bestowed on him had he mentioned his wish to return to Yass. I the more +regretted his having sneaked off, because he had had the kindness to put +us on a track we could not well lose. + +COUNTRY FROM UNDERALIGA TO MORUMBIDGEE. + +Underaliga, is said to be thirty miles from the Morumbidgee. The country +between the two has a sameness of character throughout. It is broken and +irregular, yet no one hill rises conspicuously over the rest. We found +ourselves at one time on their summits beside huge masses of granite, at +others crossing valleys of rich soil and green appearance. A country under +cultivation is so widely different from one the sod of which has never +been broken by the plough, that it is difficult and hazardous to form a +decided opinion on the latter. If you ask a stockman what kind of a +country lies, either to his right, or to his left, he is sure to condemn +it, unless it will afford the most abundant pasture. Accustomed to roam +about from one place to another, these men despise any but the richest +tracts, and include the rest of the neighbourhood in one sweeping clause +of condemnation. Thus I was led to expect, that we should pass over a +country of the very worst description, between Underaliga and the +Morumbidgee. Had it been similar to that midway between Yass and +Uuderaliga, we should, in truth, have found it so; but it struck me, that +there were many rich tracts of ground among the valleys of the former, and +that the very hills had a fair covering of grass upon them. What though +the soil was coarse, if the vegetation was good and sufficient? Perhaps +the greatest drawback to this part of the interior is the want of water; +yet we crossed several creeks, and remarked some deep water holes, that +can never be exhausted, even in the driest season. Wherever the situation +favoured our obtaining a view of the country on either side of us, while +among these hills, we found that to the eastward lofty and mountainous; +whilst that to the westward, had the appearance of fast sinking into +a level. + +TUGGIONG. + +A short time before we reached the Morumbidgee, we forded a creek, which +we crossed a second time where it falls into the river. After crossing it +the first time we opened a flat, on which the marks of sheep were +abundant. In the distance there was a small hill, and on its top a bark +hut. We were not until then aware of our being so near the river, but as +Mr. O'Brien had informed me that he had a station for sheep, at a place +called Tuggiong, by the natives, on the immediate banks of the river, I +did not doubt that we had, at length, arrived at it. And so it proved. I +went to the hut, to ascertain where I could conveniently stop for the +night, but the residents were absent. I could not but admire the position +they had taken up. The hill upon which their hut was erected was not more +than fifty feet high, but it immediately overlooked the river, and +commanded not only the flat we had traversed in approaching it, but also a +second flat on the opposite side. The Morumbidgee came down to the foot of +this little hill from the south, and, of course, running to the north, +which latter direction it suddenly takes up from a previous S.W. one, on +meeting some hills that check its direct course. From the hill on which +the hut stands, it runs away westward, almost in a direct line, for three +miles, so that the position commands a view of both the reaches, which are +overhung by the casuarina and flooded-gum. Rich alluvial flats lie to the +right of the stream, backed by moderate hills, that were lightly studded +with trees, and clothed with verdure to their summits. Some moderate +elevations also backed a flat, on the left bank of the river, but the +colour of the soil upon the latter, as well as its depressed situation, +showed clearly that it was subject to flood, and had received the worst of +the depositions from the mountains. The hills behind it were also bare, +and of a light red colour, betraying, as I imagined, a distinct formation +from, and poorer character than, the hills behind us. At about three miles +the river again suddenly changes its direction from west to south, for +about a mile, when it inclines to the S.E. until it nearly encircles the +opposite hills, when it assumes its proper direction, and flows away to +the S.W. + +CROSS THE UNDERALIGA; REACH THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +We crossed the Underaliga creek a little below the stock hut, and encamped +about a mile beyond it, in the centre of a long plain. We were surrounded +on every side by hills, from which there was no visible outlet, as they +appeared to follow the bend of the river, with an even and unbroken +outline. The scenery around us was wild, romantic, and beautiful; as +beautiful as a rich and glowing sunset in the most delightful climate +under the heavens could make it. I had been more anxious to gain the banks +of the Morumbidgee on this occasion, than I had been on a former one to +gain those of the Macquarie, for although I could not hope to see the +Morumbidgee all that it had been described to me, yet I felt that on its +first appearance I should in some measure ground my anticipations of +ultimate success. When I arrived on the banks of the Macquarie, it had +almost ceased to flow, and its current was so gentle as to be scarcely +perceptible. Instead, however, of a river in such a state of exhaustion, +I now looked down upon a stream, whose current it would have been +difficult to breast, and whose waters, foaming among rocks, or circling in +eddies, gave early promise of a reckless course. It must have been +somewhat below its ordinary level, and averaged a breadth of about 80 +feet. Its waters were hard and transparent, and its bed was composed of +mountain debris, and large fragments of rock. As soon as the morning +dawned, the tents were struck and we pursued our journey. We followed the +line of the river, until we found ourselves in a deep bight to the S.E. +The hills that had been gradually closing in upon the river, now +approached it so nearly, that there was no room for the passage of the +drays. We were consequently obliged to turn back, and, moving along the +base of the ranges, by which we were thus apparently enclosed, we at +length found a steep pass, the extreme narrowness of which had hidden it +from our observation. By this pass we were now enabled to effect our +escape. On gaining the summit of the hills, we travelled south for three +or four miles, through open forests, and on level ground. But we +ultimately descended into a valley in which we halted for the night. On a +closer examination of the neighbourhood, it appeared that our position was +at the immediate junction of two valleys, where, uniting the waters of +their respective creeks, the main branch declines rapidly towards the +river. One of these valleys extended to to the S.W., the other to the +W.N.W. It was evident to us that our route lay up the former; and I made +no doubt we should easily reach Whaby's station on the morrow. + +ADJACENT COUNTRY. + +We were now far beyond the acknowledged limits of the located parts of the +colony, and Mr. Whaby's station was the last at which we could expect even +the casual supply of milk or other trifling relief. Yet, although the +prospect of so soon leaving even the outskirts of civilization, and being +wholly thrown on our own resources, was so near, it never for a moment +weighed upon the minds of the men. The novelty of the scenery, and the +beauty of the river on which they were journeying, excited in them the +liveliest anticipations of success. The facility with which we had +hitherto pushed forward blinded them to future difficulties, nor could +there be a more cheerful spectacle than that which the camp daily +afforded. The animals browzing in the distance, and the men talking over +their pipes of the probable adventures they might encounter. The loads +had by this time settled properly, and our provisions proved of the very +best quality, so that no possible improvement could have been made for the +better. + +WHABY'S STATION. + +On the morrow we pushed up the southernmost of the valleys, at the +junction of which we had encamped, having moderate hills on either side of +us. At the head of the valley we crossed a small dividing range into +another valley, and halted for the night, on the banks of a creek from the +westward, as we found it impossible to reach Whaby's station, as we had +intended, before sunset. Nothing could exceed the luxuriance of the +vegetation in this valley, but the water of the creek was so impregnated +with iron, as to be almost useless. Being anxious to obtain a view of the +surrounding country, I ascended a hill behind the camp, just as the sun +was sinking, a time the most favourable for the object I had in view. The +country, broken into hill and dale, seemed richer than any tract I had as +yet surveyed; and the beauty of the near landscape was greatly +heightened by the mountainous scenery to the S. and S.E. Both the +laxmania, and zanthorea were growing around me; but neither appeared to be +in congenial soil. The face of the hill was very stony, and I found, on +examination, that a great change had taken place in the rock-formation, +the granite ranges having given place to chlorite schist. + +We reached Whaby's about 9 a.m. of the morning of the 27th, and received +every attention and civility from him. The valley in which we had slept +opened upon an extensive plain, to the eastward of which the Morumbidgee +formed the extreme boundary; and it was in a bight, and on ground rather +elevated above the plain, that he had fixed his residence. He informed +me that we should have to cross the river, as its banks were too +precipitous, and the ranges too abrupt, to admit of our keeping the right +side; and recommended me to examine and fix upon a spot at which to cross, +before I again moved forward, expressing his readiness to accompany me as +a guide. We accordingly rode down the river, to a place at which some +stockman had effected a passage,--after a week's labour in hewing out a +canoe. I by no means intended that a similar delay should occur in our +case, but I saw no objection to our crossing at the same place; since its +depth, and consequent tranquillity, rendered it eligible enough for that +purpose. + +THE RIVER DUMOT. + +The Dumot river, another mountain stream, joins the Morumbidgee opposite +to Mr. Whaby's residence. It is little inferior to the latter either in +size or in the rapidity of its current, and, if I may rely on the +information I received, waters a finer country, the principal +rock-formation upon it being of limestone and whinstone. It rises amidst +the snowy ranges to the S.E., and its banks are better peopled than those +of the stream into which it discharges itself. Of course, such a tributary +enlarges the Morumbidgee considerably: indeed, the fact is sufficiently +evident from the appearance of the latter below the junction. + +During our ride with Whaby down its banks, we saw nothing but the richest +flats, almost entirely clear of timber and containing from 400 to 700 +acres, backed by ranges that were but partially wooded, and were clothed +with verdure to their very summits. The herds that were scattered over the +first were almost lost in the height of the vegetation, and the ranges +served as natural barriers to prevent them from straying away. + +CROSS AND RE-CROSS THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +On the following morning, we started for the place at which it had been +arranged that we should cross the Morumbidgee, but, though no more than +five miles in a direct line from Whaby's house, in consequence of the +irregularity of the ground, the drays did not reach it before noon. The +weight and quantity of our stores being taken into consideration, the task +we had before us was not a light one. Such, however, was the industry of +the men, that before it became dark the whole of them, including the drays +and sheep, were safely deposited on the opposite bank. We were enabled to +be thus expeditious, by means of a punt that we made with the tarpaulins +on an oblong frame. As soon as it was finished, a rope was conveyed across +the river, and secured to a tree, and a running cord being then fastened +to the punt, a temporary ferry was established, and the removal of our +stores rendered comparatively easy. M'Leay undertook to drive the horses +and cattle over a ford below us, but he did not calculate on the stubborn +disposition of the latter, and, consequently, experienced some difficulty, +and was well nigh swept away by the current. So great was his difficulty, +that he was obliged to land, to his great discomfiture, amidst a grove of +lofty nettles. Mulholland, who accompanied him, and who happened to be +naked, was severly stung by them. The labour of the day was, however, +satisfactorily concluded, and we lay down to rest with feelings of entire +satisfaction. + +A great part of the following day was consumed in reloading, nor did we +pursue our journey until after two o'clock. We then passed over tracks on +the left of the river of the same rich description that existed on its +right; they were much intersected by creeks, but were clear of timber, +and entirely out of the reach of floods. At about seven miles from where +we started, we found ourselves checked by precipitous rocks jutting into +the stream, and were obliged once more to make preparations for crossing +it. Instead of a deep and quiet reach, however, the Morumbidgee here +expanded into a fretful rapid; but it was sufficiently shallow to admit of +our taking the drays over, without the trouble of unloading them. There +was still, however, some labour required in cutting down the banks, and +the men were fully occupied until after sunset; and so well did they work, +that an hour's exertion in the morning enabled us to make the passage with +safety. On ascending the right bank, we found that we had to force +through a dense body of reeds, covering some flooded land, at the base of +a range terminating upon the river; and we were obliged, in order to +extricate ourselves from our embarrassments, to pass to the N.W. of the +point, and to cross a low part of the range. This done, we met with no +further interruptions during the day, but travelled along rich and clear +flats to a deep bight below an angle of the river called Nangaar by the +natives; where we pitched our camp, and our animals revelled amid the most +luxuriant pasture. Only in one place did the sandy superficies upon the +plain indicate that it was there subject to flood. + +The Morumbidgee from Tuggiong to our present encampment had held a general +S.S.W. course, but from the summit of a hill behind the tents it now +appeared to be gradually sweeping round to the westward; and I could trace +the line of trees upon its banks, through a rich and extensive valley in +that direction, as far as my sight could reach. The country to the S.E. +maintained its lofty character, but to the westward the hills and ranges +were evidently decreasing in height, and the distant interior seemed fast +sinking to a level. The general direction of the ranges had been from N. +to S., and as we had been travelling parallel to them, their valleys were +shut from our view. Now, however, several rich and extensive ones became +visible, opening from the southward into the valley of the Morumbidgee, +and, as a further evidence of a change of country from a confused to a +more open one, a plain of considerable size stretched from immediately +beneath the hill on which I was to the N.W. + +GEOLOGY OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. + +The Morumbidgee itself, from the length and regularity of its reaches, as +well as from its increased size, seemed to intimate that it had +successfully struggled through the broken country in which it rises, and +that it would henceforward meet with fewer interruptions to its course. It +still, however, preserved all the characters of a mountain stream; having +alternate rapids and deep pools, being in many places encumbered with +fallen timber, and generally running over a shingly bed, composed of +rounded fragments of every rock of which the neighbouring ranges were +formed, and many others that had been swept by the torrents down it. The +rock formation of the hills upon its right continued of that chlorite +schist which prevailed near Mr. Whaby's, which I have already noticed, and +quartz still appeared in large masses, on the loftier ranges opposite, so +that the geology of the neighbourhood could not be said to have undergone +any material change. It might, however, be considered an extraordinary +feature in it, that a small hill of blue limestone existed upon the left +bank of the river. The last place at which we had seen limestone was at +Yass, but I had learned from Mr. Whaby, that, together with whinstone, it +was abundant near a Mr. Rose's station on the Dumot, that was not at any +great distance. The irregularity, however, of the intervening country, +made the appearance of this solitary rock more singular. + +Although the fires of the natives had been frequent upon the river, none +had, as yet, ventured to approach us, in consequence of some +misunderstanding that had taken place between them and Mr. Stuckey's +stockmen. Mr. Roberts' stockmen [these men had lately fixed themselves +on the river a little below Mr. Whaby's], however, brought a man and a boy +to us at this place in the afternoon, but I could not persuade them to +accompany us on our journey--neither could I, although my native boy +understood them perfectly, gain any particular information from them. + +In consequence of rain, we did not strike the tents so early as usual. +At 7 a.m. a heavy thunder storm occurred from the N.W. after which the +sky cleared, and we were enabled to push forward at 11 a.m., moving on a +general W.N.W, course, over rich flats, which, having been moistened by +the morning's showers, showed the dark colour of the rich earth of which +they were composed. Some sand-hills were, however, observed near the +river, of about fifteen feet in elevation, crowned by banksias; and the +soil of the flats had a very partial mixture of sand in it. How these +sand-hills could have been formed it is difficult to say; but they +produced little minor vegetation, and were as pure as the sand of the +sea-shore. Some considerable plains were noticed to our right, in +appearance not inferior to the ground on which we were journeying. At noon +we rose gradually from the level of these plains, and travelled along the +side of a hill, until we got to a small creek, at which we stopped, though +more than a mile and a half from the river. The clouds had been gathering +again in the N.W. quarter, and we had scarcely time to secure our flour, +when a second storm burst upon us, and it continued to rain violently for +the remainder of the day. + +BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT. + +From a small hill that lay to our left Mr. M'Leay and I enjoyed a most +beautiful view. Beneath us to the S. E. the rich and lightly timbered +valley through which the Morumbidgee flows, extended, and parts of the +river were visible through the dark masses of swamp-oak by which it was +lined, or glittering among the flooded-gum trees, that grew in its +vicinity. In the distance was an extensive valley that wound between +successive mountain ranges. More to the eastward, both mountain and +woodland bore a dark and gloomy shade, probably in consequence of the +light upon them at the time. Those lofty peaks that had borne nearly +south of us from Pouni, near Yass, now rose over the last-mentioned +ranges, and by their appearance seemed evidently to belong to a high and +rugged chain. To the westward, the decline of country was more observable +than ever; and the hills on both sides of the river, were lower and more +distant from it. Those upon which we found ourselves were composed of +iron-stone, were precipitous towards the river in many places, of sandy +soil, and were crowned with beef-wood as well as box. The change in the +rock-formation and in the soil, produced a corresponding change in the +vegetation. The timber was not so large as it had been, neither did the +hills any longer bear the green appearance which had distinguished those +we had passed to their very summits. The grass here grew in tufts amidst +the sand, and was of a burnt appearance as if it had suffered from +drought. + +NATIVES--THEIR SUFFERING FROM COLD. + +Some natives had joined us in the morning, and acted as our guides; or it +is more than probable that we should have continued our course along the +river, and got enbarrassed among impediments that were visible from our +elevated position; for it was evident that the range we had ascended +terminated in an abrupt precipice on the river, that we could not have +passed. The blacks suffered beyond what I could have imagined, from cold, +and seemed as incapable of enduring it as if they had experienced the +rigour of a northern snow storm. + +The morning of the 2nd December was cloudy and lowering, and the wind +still hung in the N.W. There was truly every appearance of bad weather, +but our anxiety to proceed on our journey overcame our apprehensions, +and the animals were loaded and moved off at 7 a.m. The rain which had +fallen the evening previous, rendered travelling heavy; so that we got on +but slowly. At 11, the clouds burst, and continued to pour down for the +rest of the day. On leaving the creek we crossed the spine of the range, +and descending from it into a valley, that continued to the river on the +one hand, and stretched away to the N.W. on the other, we ascended some +hills opposite to us, and moved generally through open, undulating forest +ground, affording good pasturage. + +SMOKING AN OPOSSUM. + +One of the blacks being anxious to get an opossum out of a dead tree, +every branch of which was hollow, asked for a tomahawk, with which be cut +a hole in the trunk above where he thought the animal lay concealed. He +found however, that he had cut too low, and that it had run higher up. +This made it necessary to smoke it out; he accordingly got some dry grass, +and having kindled a fire, stuffed it into the hole he had cut. A raging +fire soon kindled in the tree, where the draft was great, and dense +columns of smoke issued from the end of each branch as thick as that from +the chimney of a steam engine. The shell of the tree was so thin that I +thought it would soon be burnt through, and that the tree would fall; but +the black had no such fears, and, ascending to the highest branch, he +watched anxiously for the poor little wretch he had thus surrounded with +dangers and devoted to destruction; and no sooner did it appear, half +singed and half roasted, than he seized upon it and threw it down to +us with an air of triumph. The effect of the scene in so lonely a forest, +was very fine. The roaring of the fire in the tree, the fearless attitude +of the savage, and the associations which his colour and appearance, +enveloped as he was in smoke, called up, were singular, and still dwell +on my recollection. We had not long left the tree, when it fell with a +tremendous crash, and was, when we next passed that way, a mere heap of +ashes. + +ACCIDENTS. + +Shortly before it commenced raining, the dogs started an emu, and took +after it, followed by M'Leay and myself. We failed in killing it, and I +was unfortunate enough to lose a most excellent watch upon the occasion, +which in regularity was superior to the chronometer I had with me. + +As there was no hope of the weather clearing up, I sent M'Leay and one of +the blacks with the flour to the river, with directions to pile it up and +cover it with tarpaulins, as soon as possible, remaining myself to bring +up the drays. It was not, however, until after 4 p.m. that we gained the +river-side, or that we were enabled to get into shelter. Fraser met with a +sad accident while assisting the driver of the teams, who, accidentally, +struck him with the end of the lash of his whip in the eye, and cut the +lower lid in two. The poor fellow fell to the ground as if he had been +shot, and really, from the report of the whip, I was at first uncertain +of the nature of the accident. + +PONDEBADGERY. + +We had gradually ascended some hills; and as the sweep of the valley led +southerly, we continued along it until we got to its very head; then, +crossing the ridge we descended the opposite side, towards a beautiful +plain, on the further extremity of which the river line was marked by the +dark-leafed casuarina. In spite of the badness of the weather and the +misfortunes of the day, I could not but admire the beauty of the scene. +We were obliged to remain stationary the following day, in consequence +of one of the drays being out of repair, and requiring a new axle-tree. +I could hardly regret the necessity that kept us in so delightful a spot. +This plain, which the natives called Pondebadgery, and in which a station +has since been formed, is about two miles in breadth, by about three and +a-half in length. It is surrounded apparently on every side by hills. The +river running E. and W. forms its southern boundary. The hills by which we +had entered it, terminating abruptly on the river to the north-east, form +a semi-circle round it to the N.N.W. where a valley, the end of which +cannot be seen, runs to the north-west, of about half a mile in breadth. +On the opposite side of the river moderate hills rise over each other, and +leave little space between them and its banks. The Morumbidgee itself, +with an increased breadth, averaging from seventy to eighty yards, +presents a still, deep sheet of water to the view, over which the +casuarina bends with all the grace of the willow, or the birch, but with +more sombre foliage. To the west, a high line of flooded-gum trees +extending from the river to the base of the hills which form the west side +of the valley before noticed, hides the near elevations, and thus shuts in +the whole space. The soil of the plain is of the richest description, and +the hills backing it, together with the valley, are capable of depasturing +the most extensive flocks. + +Such is the general landscape from the centre of Pondebadgery Plain. +Behind the line of gum-trees, the river suddenly sweeps away to the south, +and forms a deep bight of seven miles, when, bearing up again to the N.W. +it meets some hills about 10 miles to the W.N.W. of the plain, thus +encircling a still more extensive space, that for richness of soil, and +for abundance of pasture, can nowhere be excelled; such, though on a +smaller scale, are all the flats that adorn the banks of the Morumbidgee, +first on one side and then on the other, as the hills close in upon them, +from Juggiong to Pondebadgery. + +TRAVELLING DOWN THE RIVER. + +It is deeply to be regretted that this noble river should exist at such a +distance from the capital as to be unavailable. During our stay on the +Pondebadgery Plain, the men caught a number of codfish, as they are +generally termed, but which are, in reality, a species of perch. The +largest weighed 401b. but the majority of the others were small, not +exceeding from six to eight. M'Leay and I walked to the N.W. extremity of +the plain, in order to ascertain how we should debouche from it, and to +get, if possible, a view of the western interior. We took with us two +blacks who had attached themselves to the party, and had made themselves +generally useful. On ascending the most westerly of the hills, we found it +composed of micaceous schist, the upper coat of which was extremely soft, +and broke with a slaty fracture, or crumbled into a sparkling dust beneath +our feet. The summit of the hill was barren, and beef-wood alone grew on +it. The valley, of which it was the western boundary, ran up northerly for +two or three miles, with all the appearance of richness and verdure. To +the south extended the flat I have noticed, more heavily timbered than we +had usually found them, bounded, or backed rather, by a hilly country, +although one fast losing in its general height. To the W.N.W. there was a +moderate range of hills on the opposite side of an extensive valley, +running up northerly, from which a lateral branch swept round to the +W.N.W. with a gradual ascent into the hills, which bore the same +appearance of open forest, grazing land, as prevailed in similar tracts to +the eastward. The blacks pointed out to us our route up the valley, and +stated that we should get on the banks of the river again in a direction +W. by N. from the place on which we stood. We accordingly crossed the +principal valley on the following morning, and gradually ascended the +opposite line of hills. They terminate to the S.E. in lofty precipices, +overlooking the river flats, and having a deep chain of ponds under them. +The descent towards the river was abrupt, and we encamped upon its banks, +with a more confined view than any we had ever had before. There was an +evident change in the river; the banks were reedy, the channel deep and +muddy, and the neighbourhood bore more the appearance of being subject to +overflow than it had done in any one place we had passed over. The hills +were much lower, and as we gained the southern brow of that under which we +encamped, we could see a level and wooded country to the westward. The +line of the horizon was unbroken by any hills in the distance, and the +nearer ones seemed gradually to lose themselves in the darkness of the +landscape. + +The two natives, whom the stockmen had named Peter and Jemmie, were of +infinite service to us, from their knowledge of all the passes, and the +general features of the country. Having, however, seen us thus far on the +journey from their usual haunts, they became anxious to return, and it was +with some difficulty we persuaded them to accompany us for a few days +longer, in hopes of reward. The weather had been cool and pleasant; the +thermometer averaging 78 of Fahrenheit at noon, in consequences of which +the animals kept in good condition, the men healthy and zealous. The sheep +Mr. O'Brien had presented to us, gave no additional trouble; they followed +in the rear of the party without attempting to wander, and were secured at +night in a small pen or fold. No waste attended their slaughter, nor did +they lose in condition, from being driven from ten to fifteen miles daily, +so much as I had been led to suppose they would have done. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + +Character of the Morumbidgee where it issues from the hilly country-- +Appearance of approach to swamps--Hamilton Plains--Intercourse with the +natives--Their appearance, customs, &c.--Change in the character of the +river--Mirage--Dreariness of the country--Ride towards the Lachlan river +--Two boats built and launched on the Morumbidgee; and the drays, with +part of the men sent back to Goulburn Plains. + +NATIVES--WILD GAME,&c.; CHARACTER OF THE RIVER AND THE ADJOINING COUNTRY. + +From our camp, the Morumbidgee held a direct westerly course for about +three miles. The hills under which we had encamped, rose so close upon our +right as to leave little space between them and the river. At the distance +of three miles, however, they suddenly terminated, and the river changed +its direction to the S.W., while a chain of ponds extended to the +westward, and separated the alluvial flats from a somewhat more elevated +plain before us. We kept these ponds upon our left for some time, but, as +they ultimately followed the bend of the river, we left them. The blacks +led us on a W. by S. course to the base of a small range two or three +miles distant, near which there was a deep lagoon. It was evident they +here expected to have found some other natives. Being disappointed, +however, they turned in towards the river again, but we stopped short of +it on the side of a serpentine sheet of water, an apparent continuation of +the chain of ponds we had left behind us, forming a kind of ditch round +the S.W. extremity of the range, parallel to which we had continued to +travel. This range, which had been gradually decreasing in height from the +lagoon, above which it rose perpendicularly, might almost be said to +terminate here. We fell in with two or three natives before we halted, but +the evident want of population in so fine a country, and on so noble a +river, surprised me extremely. We saw several red kangaroos in the course +of the day, and succeeded in killing one. It certainly is a beautiful +animal, ranging the wilds in native freedom. The female and the kid are of +a light mouse-colour. Wild turkeys abound on this part of the Morumbidgee, +but with the exception of a few terns, which are found hovering over the +lagoons, no new birds had as yet been procured; and the only plant that +enriched our collection, was an unknown metrosideros. In crossing the +extremity of the range, the wheels of the dray sunk deep into a yielding +and coarse sandy soil, of decomposed granite, on which forest-grass +prevailed in tufts, which, being far apart, made the ground uneven, and +caused the animals to trip. We rose at one time sufficiently high to +obtain an extensive view, and had our opinions confirmed as to the level +nature of the country we were so rapidly approaching. From the N. to +the W.S.W. the eye wandered over a wooded and unbroken interior, if I +except a solitary double hill that rose in the midst of it, bearing +S. 82 degrees W. distant 12 miles, and another singular elevation that +bore S. 32 degrees W. called by the natives, Kengal. The appearance to the +E.S.E. was still that of a mountainous country, while from the N.E., the +hills gradually decrease in height, until lost in the darkness of +surrounding objects to the northward. We did not travel this day more than +13 miles on a W. by N. course. The Morumbidgee, where we struck it, by its +increased size, kept alive our anticipations of its ultimately leading us +to some important point. The partial rains that had fallen while we were +on its upper branch, had swollen it considerably, and it now rolled along +a vast body of water at the rate of three miles an hour, preserving a +medium width of 150 feet; its banks retaining a height far above the usual +level of the stream. A traveller who had never before descended into the +interior of New Holland, would have spurned the idea of such a river +terminating in marshes; but with the experience of the former journey, +strong as hope was within my breast, I still feared it might lose itself +in the vast flat upon which we could scarcely be said to have yet entered. +The country was indeed taking up more and more every day the features of +the N.W. interior. Cypresses were observed upon the minor ridges, and the +soil near the river, although still rich, and certainly more extensive +than above, was occasionally mixed with sand, and scattered over with the +claws of crayfish and shells, indicating its greater liability to be +flooded; nor indeed could I entertain a doubt that the river had laid a +great part of the levels around us under water long after it found that +channel in which nature intended ultimately to confine it. We killed +another fine red kangaroo in the early part of the day, in galloping after +which I got a heavy fall. + +The two blacks who had been with us so long, and who had not only exerted +themselves to assist us, but had contributed in no small degree to our +amusement, though they had from M'Leay's liberality, tasted all the +dainties with which we had provided ourselves, from sugar to concentrated +cayenne, intimated that they could no longer accompany the party. They had +probably got to the extremity of their beat, and dared not venture any +further. They left us with evident regret, receiving, on their departure, +several valuable presents, in the shape of tomahawks &c. The last thing +they did was to point out the way to us, and to promise to join us on our +return, although they evidently little anticipated ever seeing us again. + +In pursuing our journey, we entered a forest, consisting of box-trees, +casuarinae, and cypresses, on a light sandy soil, in which both horses and +bullocks sunk so deep that their labour was greatly increased, more +especially as the weather had become much warmer. At noon I altered my +course from N.W. by W. to W.N.W., and reached the Morumbidgee at 3 in the +afternoon. The flats bordering it were extensive and rich, and, being +partially mixed with sand, were more fitted for agricultural purposes than +the stiffer and purer soil amidst the mountains; but the interior beyond +them was far from being of corresponding quality. We crossed several +plains on which vegetation was scanty, probably owing to the hardness of +the soil, which was a stiff loamy clay, and which must check the growth of +plants, by preventing the roots from striking freely into it. The river +where we stopped for the night appeared to have risen considerably, and +the fish were rolling about on the surface of the water with a noise like +porpoises. No elevations were visible, so that I had not an opportunity of +continuing the chain of survey with the points I had previously taken. + +TRAVELLING DOWN THE RIVER. + +As we proceeded down the river on the 8th, the flats became still more +extensive than they had ever been, and might almost be denominated plains. +Vegetation was scanty upon them, although the soil was of the first +quality. About nine miles from our camp, we struck on a small isolated +hill, that could scarcely have been of 200 feet elevation; yet, depressed +as it was, the view from its summit was very extensive, and I was +surprised to find that we were still in some measure surrounded by high +lands, of which I took the following bearings, connected with the present +ones. + +A High Peak.....N. 66 E. distance 40 miles. +Kengal ........ N. 110 E. distant. +Double Hill ... S. 10 W. distant. + +To the north, there were several fires burning, which appeared rather the +fires of natives, than conflagrations, and as the river had made a bend to +the N.N.W., I doubted not that they were upon its banks. From this hill, +which was of compact granite, we struck away to the W.N.W., and shortly +afterwards crossed some remarkable sand-hills. Figuratively speaking, they +appeared like islands amidst the alluvial deposits, and were as pure in +their composition as the sand on the sea-shore. They were generally +covered with forest grass, in tufts, and a coarse kind of rushes, under +banksias and cypresses. We found a small fire on the banks of the river, +and close to it the couch and hut of a solitary native, who had probably +seen us approach, and had fled. There cannot be many inhabitants +hereabouts, since there are no paths to indicate that they frequent this +part of the Morumbidgee more at one season than another. + +On the 9th, the river fell off again to the westward, and we lost a good +deal of the northing we had made the day before. We journeyed pretty +nearly equidistant from the stream, and kept altogether on the alluvial +flats. As we were wandering along the banks of the river, a black started +up before us, and swam across to the opposite side, where he immediately +hid himself. We could by no means induce him to show himself; he was +probably the lonely being whom we had scared away from the fire the day +before. In the afternoon, however we surprised a family of six natives, +and persuaded them to follow us to our halting place. My boy understood +them well; but the young savage had the cunning to hide the information +they gave him, or, for aught I know, to ask questions that best suited his +own purposes, and therefore we gained little intelligence from them. + +Every day now produced some change in the face of the country, by which it +became more and more assimilated to that I had traversed during the first +expedition. Acacia pendula now made its appearance on several plains +beyond the river deposits, as well as that salsolaceous class of plants, +among which the schlerolina and rhagodia are so remarkable. The natives +left us at sunset, but returned early in the morning with an extremely +facetious and good-humoured old man, who volunteered to act as our guide +without the least hesitation. There was a cheerfulness in his manner, +that gained our confidence at once, and rendered him a general favourite. +He went in front with the dogs, and led us a little away from the river +to kill kangaroos, as he said. At about two miles we struck on an +inconsiderable elevation, which the party crossed at the S.W. extremity. +I ascended it at the opposite end, but although the view was extensive, I +could not make out the little hill of granite from which I had taken my +former bearings, and the only elevation I could recognise as connected +with them, was one about ten miles distant, bearing S. 168 W. I could +observe very distant ranges to the E.N.E. and immediately below me in that +direction, there was a large clear plain, skirted by acacia pendula, +stretching from S.S.E. to N.N.W. The crown and ridges of the hill on which +I stood, were barren, stony, and covered with beef-wood, +the rock-formation being a coarse granite. The drays had got so far ahead +of me that I did not overtake them before they had halted on the river at +a distance of ten miles. + +INFORMATION FROM A NATIVE. + +The Morumbidgee appeared, on examination, to have increased in breadth, +and continued to rise gradually. It is certainly a noble stream, very +different from those I had already traced to their termination. The old +black informed me that there was another large river flowing to the +southward of west, to which the Morumbidgee was as a creek, and that we +could gain it in four days. He stated that its waters were good, but that +its banks were not peopled. That such a feature existed where he laid it +down, I thought extremely probable, because it was only natural to expect +that other streams descended from the mountains in the S.E. of the island, +as well as that on which we were travelling. The question was, whether +either of them held on an uninterrupted course to some reservoir, or +whether they fell short of the coast and exhausted themselves in marshes. +Considering the concave direction of the mountains to the S.E., I even +at this time hoped that the rivers falling into the interior would unite +sooner or later, and contribute to the formation of an important and +navigable stream. Of the fate of the Morumbidgee, the old black could give +no account. It seemed probable, therefore, that we were far from its +termination. + +I had hitherto been rather severe upon the animals, for although our +journey had not exceeded from twelve to fifteen miles a day, it had been +without intermission. I determined, therefore, to give both men and +animals a day of rest, as soon as I should find a convenient place. We +started on the 11th with this intention, but we managed to creep over +eight or ten miles of ground before we halted. The country was slightly +undulated, and much intersected by creeks, few of which had water in them. +The whole tract was, however, well adapted either for agriculture, or +for grazing, and, in spite of the drought that had evidently long hung +over it, was well covered with vegetation. We had passed all high lands, +and the interior to the westward presented an unbroken level to the eye. +The Morumbidgee appeared to hold a more northerly course than I had +anticipated. Still low ranges continued upon our right, and the cypress +ridges became more frequent and denser; but the timber on the more open +grounds generally consisted of box and flooded-gum. Of minor trees, the +acacia pendula was the most prevalent, with a shrub bearing a round nut, +enclosed in a scarlet capsule, and an interesting species of stenochylus. +I had observed as yet, few of the plants of the more northern interior. + +NATIVES--THEIR UGLINESS. + +In this neighbourhood, the dogs killed an emu and a kangaroo, which came +in very conveniently for some natives whom we fell in with on one of the +river flats. They were, without exception, the worst featured of any I had +ever seen. It is scarcely possible to conceive that human beings could +be so hideous and loathsome. The old black, who was rather good-looking, +told me they were the last we should see for some time, and I felt that if +these were samples of the natives on the lowlands, I cared very little how +few of I them we should meet. + +EXTENSIVE PLAINS. + +The country on the opposite side of the river had all the features of that +to the north of it, but a plain of such extent suddenly opened upon us to +the southward, that I halted at once in order to examine it, and by +availing myself of a day of rest, to fix our position more truly than we +could otherwise have done. We accordingly pitched our tents under some +lofty gum-trees, opposite to the plain, and close upon the edge of the +sandy beach of the river. Before they were turned out, the animals were +carefully examined, and the pack-saddles overhauled, that they might +undergo any necessary repairs. The river fell considerably during the +night, but it poured along a vast body of water, possessing a strong +current. The only change I remarked in it was that it now had a bed of +sand, and was generally deeper on one side than on the other. It kept a +very uniform breadth of from 150 to 170 feet--and a depth of from 4 to 20. +Its channel, though occasionally much encumbered with fallen timber, was +large enough to contain twice the volume of water then in it, but it had +outer and more distant banks, the boundaries of the alluvial flats, to +confine it within certain limits, during the most violent floods, and to +prevent its inundating the country. + +HAMILTON'S PLAINS. + +With a view to examine the plain opposite to us, I directed our horses to +be taken across the river early in the morning, and after breakfast, +M'Leay and I swam across after them. We found the current strong, and +could not keep a direct line over the channel, but were carried below the +place at which we plunged in. We proceeded afterwards in a direction +W.S.W. across the plain for five or six miles, before we saw trees on the +opposite extremity, at a still greater distance. We thus found ourselves +in the centre of an area of from 26 to 30 miles. It appeared to be +perfectly level, though not really so. The soil upon it was good, +excepting in isolated spots, where it was sandy. Vegetation was scanty +upon it, but, on the whole, I should conclude that it was fitter for +agriculture than for grazing. For I think it very probable, that those +lands which lie hardening and bare in a state of nature, would produce +abundantly if broken up by the plough. I called this Hamilton's plains, +in remembrance of the surgeon of my regiment. The Morumbidgee forms its +N.E. boundary, and a creek rising on it, cuts off a third part on the +western side, and runs away from the river in a southerly direction. This +creek, even before it gets to the outskirts of the plains, assumes a +considerable size. Such a fact would argue that heavy rains fall in this +part of the interior, to cut out such a watercourse, or that the soil is +extremely loose; but I should think the former the most probable, since +the soil of this plain had a substratum of clay. I place our encampment on +the river in latitude 34 degrees 41 minutes 45 seconds S., and in East +longitude 146 degrees 50 minutes, the variation of the compass being +60 degrees 10 minutes E. + +INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES; SCANTINESS OF THE POPULATION. + +On our return to the camp we found several natives with our people, and +among them one of the tallest I had ever seen. Their women were with them, +and they appeared to have lost all apprehension of any danger occurring +from us. The animals were benefited greatly by this day of rest. We left +the plain, therefore, on the 13th with renewed spirits, and passed over a +country very similar to that by which we had approached it, one well +adapted for grazing, but intersected by numerous creeks, at two of which +we found natives, some of whom joined our party. Our old friend left us in +quest of some blacks, who, as he informed Hopkinson, had seen the tracks +of our horses on the Darling. I was truly puzzled at such a statement, +which was, however, further corroborated by the circumstance of one of the +natives having a tire-nail affixed to a spear, which he said was picked +up, by the man who gave it to him, on one of our encampments. I could not +think it likely that this story was true, and rather imagined they must +have picked up the nail near the located districts, and I was anxious to +have the point cleared up. When we halted we had a large assemblage of +natives with us, amounting in all to twenty-seven, but I awaited in vain +the return of the old man. The night passed away without our seeing him, +nor did he again join us. + +We started in the morning with our new acquaintances, and kept on a +south-westerly course during the day, over an excellent grazing, and, in +many places, an agricultural country, still intersected by creeks, that +were too deep for the water to have dried in them. The country more +remote from the river, however, began to assume more and more the +character and appearance of the northern interior. I rode into several +plains, the soil of which was either a red sandy loam, bare of vegetation, +or a rotten and blistered earth, producing nothing but rhagodiae, +salsolae, and misembrianthemum. + +We fell in with another tribe of blacks during the journey, to whom we +were literally consigned by those who had been previously with us, and who +now turned back, while our new friends took the lead of the drays. They +were two fine young men, but had very ugly wives, and were for a long time +extremely diffident. I found that I could obtain but little information +through my black boy,--whether from his not understanding me, or because +he was too cunning, is uncertain. One of these young men, however, +clearly stated that he had seen the tracks of bullocks and horses, a long +time ago, to the N.N.W. in the direction of some detached hills, that were +visible from 20 to 25 miles distant. He remembered them, he said, as a +boy, and added that the white men were without water. It was, therefore, +clear that he alluded to Mr. Oxley's excursion, northerly from the +Lachlan, and I had no doubt on my mind, that he had been on one of that +officer's encampments, and that the hills to the north of us were those +to the opposite base of which he had penetrated. I was determined, +therefore, if practicable, to reach these hills, deeming it a matter of +great importance to connect the surveys, but I deferred my journey for a +day or two, in hopes, from the continued northerly course of the river, +that we should have approached them nearer. + +In the evening we fell in with some more blacks, among whom were two +brothers, of those who were acting as our guides. One had a very pretty +girl as a wife, and all the four brothers were very good-looking young +men. There cannot, I should think, be a numerous population on the banks +of the Morumbidgee, from the fact of our having seen not more than fifty +in an extent of more than 180 miles. They are apparently scattered along +it in families. I was rather surprised that my boy understood their +language well, since it certainly differed from that of the Macquarie +tribes, but nevertheless as these people do not wander far, our +information as to what was before us was very gradually arrived at, and +only as we fell in with the successive families. Moreover, as my boy +was very young, it may be that he was more eager in communicating to those +who had no idea of them, the wonders he had seen, than in making inquiries +on points that were indifferent to him. + +CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. + +We passed a very large plain in the course of the day, which was bounded +by forests of box, cypress, and the acacia pendula, of red sandy soil and +parched appearance. The Morumbidgee evidently overflows a part of the +lands we crossed, to a greater extent than heretofore, though the alluvial +deposits beyond its influence were still both rich and extensive. The +crested pigeon made its appearance on the acacias, which I took to be a +sure sign of our approach to a country more than ordinarily subject to +overflow; since on the Macquarie and the Darling, those birds were found +only to inhabit the regions of marshes, or spaces covered by the acacia +pendula, or the polygonum. We had not, however, yet seen any of the latter +plant, although we were shortly destined to be almost lost amidst fields +of it. + +CHANGE IN THE COUNTRY. + + +We were now approaching that parallel of longitude in which the other +known rivers of New Holland had been found to exhaust themselves; the +least change therefore, for the worse was sufficient to raise my +apprehensions; yet, although the Morumbidgee had received no tributary +from the Dumot downwards, and was leading us into an apparently endless +level, I saw no indication of its decreasing in size, or in the rapidity +of its current. Certainly, however, I had, from the character of the +country around us, an anticipation that a change was about to take place +in it, and this anticipation was verified in the course of the following +day. The alluvial flats gradually decreased in breadth, and we journeyed +mostly over extensive and barren plains, which in many places approached +so near the river as to form a part of its bank. They were covered with +the salsolaceous class of plants, so common in the interior, in a red +sandy soil, and were as even as a bowling green. The alluvial spaces near +the river became covered with reeds, and, though subject to overflow at +every partial rise of it, were so extremely small as scarcely to afford +food for our cattle. Flooded-gum trees of lofty size grew on these reedy +spaces, and marked the line of the river, but the timber of the interior +appeared stunted and useless. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES; MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES. + +We found this part of the Morumbidgee much more populous than its upper +branches. When we halted, we had no fewer than forty-one natives with us, +of whom the young men were the least numerous. They allowed us to choose +a place for ourselves before they formed their own camp, and studiously +avoided encroaching on our ground so as to appear troublesome. Their +manners were those of a quiet and inoffensive people, and their appearance +in some measure prepossessing. The old men had lofty foreheads, and stood +exceedingly erect. The young men were cleaner is their persons and were +better featured than any we had seen, some of them having smooth hair and +an almost Asiatic cast of countenance. On the other hand, the women and +children were disgusting objects. The latter were much subject to +diseases, and were dreadfully emaciated. It is evident that numbers of +them die in their infancy for want of care and nourishment. We remarked +none at the age of incipient puberty, but the most of them under six. In +stating that the men were more prepossessing than any we had seen, I would +not be understood to mean that they differed in any material point either +from the natives of the coast, or of the most distant interior to which I +had been, for they were decidedly the same race, and had the same leading +features and customs, as far as the latter could be observed. The sunken +eye and overhanging eyebrow, the high cheek-bone and thick lip, distended +nostrils, the nose either short or acquiline, together with a stout bust +and slender extremities, and both curled and smooth hair, marked the +natives of the Morumbidgee as well as those of the Darling. They were +evidently sprung from one common stock, the savage and scattered +inhabitants of a rude and inhospitable land. In customs they differed in +no material point from the coast natives, and still less from the tribes +on the Darling and the Castlereagh. They extract the front tooth, +lacerate their bodies, to raise the flesh, cicatrices being their chief +ornament; procure food by the same means, paint in the same manner, and +use the same weapons, as far as the productions of the country will allow +them. But as the grass-tree is not found westward of the mountains, they +make a light spear of a reed, similar to that of which the natives of the +southern islands form their arrows. These they use for distant combat, and +not only carry in numbers, but throw with the boomerang to a great +distance and with unerring precision, making them to all intents and +purposes as efficient as the bow and arrow. They have a ponderous spear +for close fight, and others of different sizes for the chase. With regard +to their laws, I believe they are universally the same all over the known +parts of New South Wales. The old men have alone the privilege of eating +the emu; and so submissive are the young men to this regulation, that if, +from absolute hunger or under other pressing circumstances, one of them +breaks through it, either during a hunting excursion, or whilst absent +from his tribe, he returns under a feeling of conscious guilt, and by his +manner betrays his guilt, sitting apart from the men, and confessing his +misdemeanour to the chief at the first interrogation, upon which he is +obliged to undergo a slight punishment. This evidently is a law of policy +and necessity, for if the emus were allowed to be indiscriminately +slaughtered, they would soon become extinct. Civilised nations may learn a +wholesome lesson even from savages, as in this instance of their +forebearance. For somewhat similar reasons, perhaps, married people alone +are here permitted to eat ducks. They hold their corrobories, +(midnight ceremonies), and sing the same melancholy ditty that breaks the +stillness of night on the shores of Jervis' Bay, or on the banks of the +Macquarie; and during the ceremony imitate the several birds and beasts +with which they are acquainted. If these inland tribes differ in anything +from those on the coast, it is in the mode of burying their dead, and, +partially, in their language. Like all savages, they consider their women +as secondary objects, oblige them to procure their own food, or throw to +them over their shoulders the bones they have already picked, with a +nonchalance that is extremely amusing; and, on the march, make them beasts +of burden to carry their very weapons. The population of the Morumbidgee, +as far as we had descended it at this time, did not exceed from ninety to +a hundred souls. I am persuaded that disease and accidents consign many of +them to a premature grave. + +MIRAGE. + +From this camp, one family only accompanied us. We journeyed due west over +plains of great extent. The soil upon them was soft and yielding, in some +places being a kind of light earth covered with rhagodiae, in others a +red tenacious clay, overrun by the misembrianthemum and salsolae. +Nothing could exceed the apparent barrenness of these plains, or the +cheerlessness of the landscape. We had left all high lands behind us, and +were now on an extensive plain, bounded in the distance by low trees or by +dark lines of cypresses. The lofty gum-trees on the river followed its +windings, and, as we opened the points, they appeared, from the peculiar +effect of a mirage, as bold promontories jutting into the ocean, having +literally the blue tint of distance. This mirage floated in a light +tremulous vapour on the ground, and not only deceived us with regard to +the extent of the plains, and the appearance of objects, but hid the +trees, in fact, from our view altogether; so that, in moving, as we +imagined, upon the very point or angle of the river, we found as we neared +it, that the trees stretched much further into the plain, and were obliged +to alter our course to round them. The heated state of the atmosphere, and +the sandy nature of the country could alone have caused a mirage so +striking in its effects, as this,--exceeding considerably similar +appearances noticed during the first expedition. The travelling was so +heavy, that I was obliged to make a short day's journey, and when we +struck the river for the purpose of halting, it had fallen off very much +in appearance, and was evidently much contracted, with low banks and a +sandy bed. It was difficult to account for this sudden change, but when +I gazed on the extent of level country before me, I began to dread that +this hitherto beautiful stream would ultimately disappoint us. + +EXCURSION TOWARDS A RIDGE OF HILLS. + +I had deferred my intended excursion to the hills under which I imagined +Mr. Oxley had encamped, until we were out of sight of them, and I now +feared that it was almost too late to undertake it, but I was still +anxious to determine a point in which I felt considerable interest. I was +the more desirous of surveying the country to the northward, because of +the apparent eagerness with which the natives had caught at the word +Colare, which I recollected having heard a black on the Macquarie make +use of in speaking of the Lachlan. They pointed to the N.N.W., and making +a sweep with the arm raised towards the sky, seemed to intimate that a +large sheet of water existed in that direction; and added that it +communicated with the Morumbidgee more to the westward. This information +confirmed still more my impressions with regard to Mr. Oxley's line of +route; and, as I found a ready volunteer in M'Leay, I gave the party in +charge to Harris until I should rejoin him, and turned back towards the +hills, with the intention of reaching them if possible. No doubt we should +have done so had it not been for the nature of the ground over which we +travelled, and the impossibility of our exceeding a walk. We rode to a +distance of 18 miles, but still found ourselves far short of the hills, +and therefore gave up the point. I considered, however, that we were about +the same distance to the south, as Mr. Oxley had been to the north of +them, and in taking bearings of the highest points, I afterwards found +that they exactly tallied with his bearings, supposing him to have taken +them from his camp. + +QUIET DEMEANOUR OF THE NATIVES. + +On our way to the river, we Passed through some dense bushes of casuarinae +and cypresses, to the outskirts of the plains through which the +Morumbidgee winds. We reached the camp two or three hours after sunset, +and found it crowded with natives to the number of 60. They were extremely +quiet and inoffensive in their demeanour, and asked us to point out where +they might sleep, before they ventured to kindle their fires. One old man, +we remarked, had a club foot, and another was blind, but, as far as we +could judge from the glare of the fires, the generality of them were fine +young men, and supported themselves in a very erect posture when standing +or walking. There were many children with the women, among whom colds +seemed to prevail. It blew heavily from the N.W. during the night, and a +little rain fell in the early part of the morning. Our route during the +day, was over as melancholy a tract as ever was travelled. The plains to +the N. and N.W. bounded the horizon; not a tree of any kind was visible +upon them. It was equally open to the S., and it appeared as if the river +was decoying us into a desert, there to leave us in difficulty and in +distress. The very mirage had the effect of boundlessness in it, by +blending objects in one general hue; or, playing on the ground, it cheated +us with an appearance of water, and on arriving at the spot, we found a +continuation of the same scorching plain, over which we were moving, +instead of the stream we had hoped for. + +The cattle about this time began to suffer, and, anxious as I was to push +on, I was obliged to shorten my journeys, according to circumstances. +Amidst the desolation around us, the river kept alive our hopes. If it +traversed deserts, it might reach fertile lands, and it was to the issue +of the journey that we had to look for success. It here, however, +evidently overflowed its banks more extensively than heretofore, and +broad belts of reeds were visible on either side of it, on which the +animals exclusively subsisted. Most of the natives had followed us, and +their patience and abstinence surprised me exceedingly. Some of them had +been more than twenty-four hours without food, and yet seemed as little +disposed to seek it as ever. I really thought they expected me to supply +their wants, but as I could not act so liberal a scale, George M'Leay +undeceived them; after which they betook themselves to the river, and got +a supply of muscles. I rather think their going so frequently into the +water engenders a catarrh, or renders them more liable to it than they +otherwise would be. In the afternoon the wind shifted to the S.W. It blew +a hurricane; and the temperature of the air was extremely low. The natives +felt the cold beyond belief and kindled large fires. In the morning, when +we moved away, the most of them started with fire-sticks to keep +themselves warm; but they dropped off one by one, and at noon we found +ourselves totally deserted. + +DREARINESS OF THE LANDSCAPE. + +It is impossible for me to describe the kind of country we were now +traversing, or the dreariness of the view it presented. The plains were +still open to the horizon, but here and there a stunted gum-tree, or a +gloomy cypress, seemed placed by nature as mourners over the surrounding +desolation. Neither beast nor bird inhabited these lonely and inhospitable +regions, over which the silence of the grave seemed to reign. We had not, +for days past, seen a blade of grass, so that the animals could not have +been in very good condition. We pushed on, however, sixteen miles, in +consequence of the coolness of the weather. We observed little change in +the river in that distance, excepting that it had taken up a muddy bottom, +and lost all the sand that used to fill it. The soil and productions on +the plains continued unchanged in every respect. From this time to the +22nd, the country presented the same aspect. Occasional groups of cypress +showed themselves on narrow sandy ridges, or partial brushes extended from +the river, consisting chiefly of the acacia pendula, the stenochylus, +and the nut I have already noticed. The soil on which they grew was, if +possible, worse than that of the barren plain which we were traversing; +and their colour and drooping state rendered the desolate landscape still +more dreary. + +On the 21st, we found the same singular substance(gypsum) embedded in the +bank of the river that had been collected, during the former expedition, +on the banks of the Darling; and hope, which is always uppermost in the +human breast, induced me to think that we were fast approaching that +stream. My observations placed me in 34 degrees 17 minutes 15 seconds +S. and 145 degrees of E. longitude. + +BLACK BOY DESERTS. + +On the 22nd, my black boy deserted me. I was not surprised at his doing +so, neither did I regret his loss, for he had been of little use under any +circumstances. He was far too cunning for our purpose. I know not that the +term ingratitude can be applied to one in his situation, and in whose +bosom nature had implanted a love of freedom. We learnt from four blacks, +with whom he had spoken, and who came to us in the afternoon, that he had +gone up the river,--as I conjectured, to the last large tribe we had left, +with whom he appeared to become very intimate. + +A creek coming from the N.N.W. here fell into the Morumbidgee; a proof +that the general decline of country was really to the south, although a +person looking over it would have supposed the contrary. + +COUNTRY SUBJECT TO INUNDATION. + +We started on the 23rd, with the same boundlessness of plain on either +side of us; but in the course of the morning a change took place, both in +soil and productions; and from the red sandy loam, and salsolaceous +plants, amidst which we had been toiling, we got upon a light tenacious +and blistered soil, evidently subject to frequent overflow, and fields of +polygonum junceum, amidst which, both the crested pigeon and the black +quail were numerous. The drays and animals sank so deep in this, that we +were obliged to make for the river, and keep upon its immediate banks. +Still, with all the appearance of far-spread inundation, it continued +undiminished in size, and apparently in the strength of its current. +Its channel was deeper than near the mountains, but its breadth was about +the same. + +On the 24th, we were again entangled amidst fields of polygonum, through +which we laboured until after eleven, when we gained a firmer soil. Some +cypresses appeared upon our right, in a dark line, and I indulged hopes +that a change was about to take place in the nature of the country. We +soon, however, got on a light rotten earth, and were again obliged to make +for the river, with the teams completely exhausted. We had not travelled +many miles from our last camp, yet it struck me, that the river had +fallen off in appearance. I examined it with feelings of intense anxiety, +certain, as I was, that the flooded spaces, over which we had been +travelling would, sooner or later, be succeeded by a country overgrown +with reeds. The river evidently overflowed its banks, on both sides, +for many miles, nor had I a doubt that, at some periods, the space +northward, between it and the Lachlan, presented the appearance of one +vast sea. The flats of polygonum stretched away to the N.W. to an amazing +distance, as well as in a southerly direction, and the very nature of the +soil bore testimony to its flooded origin. But the most unaccountable +circumstance to me was, that it should be entirely destitute of +vegetation, with the exception of the gloomy and leafless bramble I have +noticed. + +M'Leay, who was always indefatigable in his pursuit after subjects of +natural history, shot a cockatoo, of a new species, hereabouts, having a +singularly shaped upper mandible. It was white, with scarlet down under +the neck feathers, smaller than the common cockatoo, and remarkable for +other peculiarities. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES; THE COLARE OR LACHLAN. + +Two or three natives made their appearance at some distance from the +party, but would not approach it until after we had halted. They then +came to the tents, seven in number, and it was evident from their manner, +that their chief or only object was to pilfer anything they could. We +did not, therefore, treat them with much ceremony. They were an +ill-featured race, and it was only by strict watching during the night +that they were prevented from committing theft. Probably from seeing that +we were aware of their intentions, they left us early, and pointing +somewhat to the eastward of north, said they were going to the Colare, +and on being asked how far it was, they signified that they should sleep +there. I had on a former occasion recollected the term having been made +use of by a black, on the Macquarie, when speaking to me of the Lachlan, +and had questioned one of the young men who was with us at the time, and +who seemed more intelligent than his companions, respecting it. +Immediately catching at the word, he had pointed to the N.N.W., and, +making a sweep with his arms raised towards the sky had intimated, +evidently, that a large sheet of water existed in that direction, in the +same manner that another black had done on a former occasion: on being +further questioned, he stated that this communicated with the Morumbidgee +more to the westward, and on my expressing a desire to go to it, he said +we could not do so under four days. We had, it appeared, by the account of +the seven natives, approached within one day's journey of it, and, as I +thought it would he advisable to gain a little knowledge of the country to +the north, I suggested to M'Leay to ride in that direction, while the +party should be at rest, with some goad feed for the cattle that fortune +had pointed out to us. + +EXCURSION TOWARDS THE LACHLAN. + +Our horses literally sank up to their knees on parts of the great plain +over which we had in the first instance to pass, and we rode from three to +four miles before we caught sight of a distant wood at its northern +extremity; the view from the river having been for the last two or three +days, as boundless as the ocean. As we approached the wood, two columns of +smoke rose from it, considerably apart, evidently the fires of natives +near water. We made for the central space between them, having a dead +acacia scrub upon our right. On entering the wood, we found that it +contained for the most part, flooded-gum, under which bulrushes and +reeds were mixed together. The whole space seemed liable to overflow, and +we crossed numerous little drains, that intersected each other in every +direction. From the resemblance of the ground to that at the bottom of the +marshes of the Macquarie, I prognosticated to my companion that we should +shortly come upon a creek, and we had not ridden a quarter of a mile +further, when we found ourselves on the banks of one of considerable size. +Crossing it, we proceeded northerly, until we got on the outskirts of a +plain of red sandy soil, covered with rhagodia alone, and without a tree +upon the visible horizon. The country appeared to be rising before us, but +was extremely depressed to the eastward. After continuing along this +plain for some time, I became convinced from appearances, that we were +receding from water, and that the fires of the natives, which were no +longer visible, must have been on the creek we had crossed, that I judged +to be leading W.S.W. from the opposite quarter. We had undoubtedly struck +below to the westward of the Colare or Lachlan, and the creek was the +channel of communication between it and the Morumbidgee, at least such was +the natural conclusion at which I arrived. Having no further object in +continuing a northerly course, we turned to the S.E., and, after again +passing the creek, struck away for the camp on a S. by W. course, and +passed through a dense brush of cypress and casuarina in our way to it. + +CONNECTION OF LACHLAN WITH MORUMBIDGEE. + +Considering our situation as connected with the marshes of the Lachlan, +I cannot but infer that the creek we struck upon during this excursion +serves as a drain to the latter, to conduct its superfluous waters into +the Morumbidgee in times of flood, as those of the Macquarie are conducted +by the creek at the termination of its marshes into Morrisset's Chain of +Ponds. It will be understood that I only surmise this. I argue from +analogy, not from proof. Whether I am correct or not, my knowledge of the +facts I have stated, tended very much to satisfy my mind as to the LAY of +the interior; and to revive my hopes that the Morumbidgee would not fail +us, although there was no appearance of the country improving. + +COUNTRY COVERED WITH REEDS. + +We started on the 26th, on a course somewhat to the N.W., and traversed +plains of the same wearisome description as those I have already +described. The wheels of the drays sank up to their axle-trees, and the +horses above their fetlocks at every step. The fields of polygonum spread +on every side of us like a dark sea, and the only green object within +range of our vision was the river line of trees. In several instances, the +force of both teams was put to one dray, to extricate it from the bed into +which it had sunk, and the labour was considerably increased from the +nature of the weather. The wind was blowing as if through a furnace, from +the N.N.E., and the dust was flying in clouds, so as to render it almost +suffocating to remain exposed to it. This was the only occasion upon which +we felt the hot winds in the interior. We were, about noon, endeavouring +to gain a point of a wood at which I expected to come upon the river +again, but it was impossible for the teams to reach it without assistance. +I therefore sent M'Leay forward, with orders to unload the pack animals as +soon as he should make the river, and send them back to help the teams. He +had scarcely been separated from me 20 minutes, when one of the men came +galloping back to inform me that no river was to be found--that the +country beyond the wood was covered with reeds as far as the eye could +reach, and that Mr. M'Leay had sent him back for instructions. This +intelligence stunned me for a moment or two, and I am sure its effect upon +the men was very great. They had unexpectedly arrived at a part of the +interior similar to one they had held in dread, and conjured up a thousand +difficulties and privations. I desired the man to recall Mr. M'Leay; and, +after gaining the wood, moved outside of it at right angles to my former +course, and reached the river, after a day of severe toil and exposure, +at half-past five. The country, indeed, bore every resemblance to that +around the marshes of the Macquarie, but I was too weary to make any +further effort: indeed it was too late for me undertake anything until +the morning. + +ANXIOUS COGITATIONS; SURVEY OF RIVER AND ENVIRONS. + +The circumstances in which we were so unexpectedly placed, occupied my +mind so fully that I could not sleep; and I awaited the return of light +with the utmost anxiety. If we were indeed on the outskirts of marshes +similar to those I had on a former occasion found so much difficulty +in examining, I foresaw that in endeavouring to move round then I should +recede from water, and place the expedition in jeopardy, probably, without +gaining any determinate point, as it would be necessary for me to advance +slowly and with caution. Our provisions, however, being calculated to last +only to a certain period, I was equally reluctant to delay our operations. +My course was, therefore, to be regulated by the appearance of the country +and of the river, which I purposed examining with the earliest dawn. +If the latter should be found to run into a region of reeds, a boat would +be necessary to enable me to ascertain its direction; but, if ultimately +it should be discovered to exhaust itself, we should have to strike into +the interior on a N.W. course, in search of the Darling. I could not think +of putting the whale-boat together in our then state of uncertainty, and +it struck me that a smaller one could sooner he prepared for the purposes +for which I should require it. These considerations, together with the +view I had taken of the measures I might at last be forced into, +determined me, on rising, to order Clayton to fell a suitable tree, and to +prepare a saw-pit. The labour was of no consideration, and even if +eventually the boat should not be wanted, no injury would arise, and it +was better to take time by the forelock. Having marked a tree preparatory +to leaving the camp, M'Leay and I started at an early hour on an excursion +of deeper interest than any we had as yet undertaken; to examine the +reeds, not only for the purpose of ascertaining their extent, if possible, +but also to guide us in our future measures. We rode for some miles along +the river side, but observed in it no signs, either of increase or of +exhaustion. Its waters, though turbid, were deep, and its current still +rapid. Its banks, too, were lofty, and showed no evidence of decreasing +in height, so as to occasion an overflow of them, as had been the case +with the Macquarie. We got among vast bodies of reeds, but the plains of +the interior were visible beyond them. We were evidently in a hollow, and +the decline of country was plainly to the southward of west. Every thing +tended to strengthen my conviction that we were still far from the +termination of the river. The character it had borne throughout, and its +appearance now so far to the westward, gave me the most lively hopes that +it would make good its way through the vast level into which it fell, and +that its termination would accord with its promise. Besides, I daily +anticipated its junction with some stream of equal, if not of greater +magnitude from the S.E. I was aware that my resolves must be instant, +decisive, and immediately acted upon, as on firmness and promptitude at +this crisis the success of the expedition depended. About noon I checked +my horse, and rather to the surprise of my companion, intimated to +him my intention of returning to the camp, He naturally asked what I +purposed doing. I told him it appeared to me more than probable that the +Morumbidgee would hold good its course to some fixed point, now that it +had reached a meridian beyond the known rivers of the interior. It was +certain, from the denseness of the reeds, and the breadth of the belts, +that the teams could not be brought any farther, and that, taking every +thing into consideration, I had resolved on a bold and desperate measure, +that of building the whale-boat, and sending home the drays. Our +appearance in camp so suddenly, surprised the men not more than the orders +I gave. They all thought I had struck on some remarkable change of +country, and were anxious to know my ultimate views. It was not my +intention however, immediately to satisfy their curiosity. I had to study +their characters as long as I could, in order to select those best +qualified to accompany me on the desperate adventure for which I was +preparing. + +BOAT BUILDING. + +The attention both of M'Leay, and myself, was turned to the hasty building +of the whale-boat. A shed was erected, and every necessary preparation +made, and although Clayton had the keel of the small boat already laid +down, and some planks prepared, she was abandoned for the present, and, +after four days more of arduous labour, the whale-boat was painted and in +the water. From her dimensions, it appeared to me impossible that she +would hold all our provisions and stores, for her after-part had been +fitted up as an armoury, which took away considerably from her capacity of +stowage. The small boat would still, therefore, be necessary, and she was +accordingly re-laid, for half the dimensions of the large boat, and in +three days was alongside her consort in the river. Thus, in seven days we +had put together a boat, twenty-seven feet in length, had felled a tree +from the forest, with which we had built a second of half the size, had +painted both, and had them at a temporary wharf ready for loading. Such +would not have been the case had not our hearts been in the work, as the +weather was close and sultry, and we found it a task of extreme labour. +In the intervals between the hours of work, I prepared my despatches for +the Governor, and when they were closed, it only remained for me to select +six hands, the number I intended should accompany me down the river, and +to load the boats, ere we should once more proceed in the further +obedience of our instructions. + +COMPLETION OF ARRANGEMENTS FOR EMBARKATION. + +It was impossible that I could do without Clayton, whose perseverance and +industry had mainly contributed to the building of the boats; of the other +prisoners, I chose Mulholland and Macnamee; leaving the rest in charge +of Robert Harris, whose steady conduct had merited my approbation. My +servant, Harris, Hopkinson, and Fraser, of course, made up the crews. +The boats were loaded in the evening of Jan. 6th, as it had been +necessary to give the paint a little time to dry. On the 4th, I had sent +Clayton and Mulholland to the nearest cypress range for a mast and spar, +and on the evening of that day some blacks had visited us; but they sat on +the bank of the river, preserving a most determined silence; and, at +length, left us abruptly, and apparently in great ill humour. In the +disposition of the loads, I placed all the flour, the tea, and tobacco, +in the whaleboat. The meat-casks, still, and carpenters' tools, were put +into the small boat. + +As soon as the different arrangements were completed, I collected the men, +and told off those who were to accompany me. I then gave the rest over in +charge to Harris, and, in adverting to their regular conduct hitherto, +trusted they would be equally careful while under his orders. I then +directed the last remaining sheep to be equally divided among us; and it +was determined that, for fear of accidents, Harris should remain +stationary for a week, at the expiration of which time, he would be at +liberty to proceed to Goulburn Plains, there to receive his instructions +from Sydney; while the boats were to proceed at an early hour of the +morning down the river,--whether ever to return again being a point of the +greatest uncertainty. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + +Embarkation of the party in the boats, and voyage down the Morumbidgee-- +The skiff swamped by striking on a sunken tree--Recovery of boat and its +loading--Region of reeds--Dangers of the navigation--Contraction of the +channel--Reach the junction of a large river--Intercourse with the natives +on its banks--Character of the country below the junction of the rivers-- +Descent of a dangerous rapid--Warlike demonstrations of a tribe of +natives--Unexpected deliverance from a conflict with them--Junction of +another river--Give the name of the "Murray" to the principal stream. + + +The camp was a scene of bustle and confusion long before day-light. The +men whom I had selected to accompany me were in high spirits, and so eager +to commence their labours that they had been unable to sleep, but busied +themselves from the earliest dawn in packing up their various articles of +clothing, &c. We were prevented from taking our departure so early as I +had intended, by rain that fell about six. At a little after seven, +however, the weather cleared up, the morning mists blew over our heads, +and the sun struck upon us with his usual fervour. As soon as the minor +things were stowed away, we bade adieu to Harris and his party; and +shortly after, embarked on the bosom of that stream along the banks of +which we had journeyed for so many miles + +Notwithstanding that we only used two oars, our progress down the river +was rapid. Hopkinson had arranged the loads so well, that all the party +could sit at their ease, and Fraser was posted in the bow of the boat, +with gun in hand, to fire at any new bird or beast that we might surprise +in our silent progress. The little boat, which I shall henceforward call +the skiff, was fastened by a painter to our stern. + +SUPPOSED JUNCTION OF LACHLAN. + +As the reader will have collected from what has already fallen under his +notice, the country near the depot was extensively covered with reeds, +beyond which vast plains of polygonum stretched away. From the bed of the +river we could not observe the change that took place in it as we passed +along, so that we found it necessary to land, from time to time, for the +purpose of noting down its general appearance. At about fifteen miles from +the depot, we came upon a large creek-junction from the N.E., which I did +not doubt to be the one M'Leay and I had crossed on the 25th of December. +It was much larger than the creek of the Macquarie, and was capable of +holding a very great body of water, although evidently too small to +contain all that occasionally rushed from its source. I laid it down as +the supposed junction of the Lachlan, since I could not, against the +corroborating facts in my possession, doubt its originating in the marshes +of that river. Should this, eventually, prove to be the case, the similar +termination of the two streams traced by Mr. Oxley will be a singular +feature in the geography of the interior. + +EMUS--NATIVE TOMB. + +We were just about to land, to prepare our dinner, when two emus swam +across the river ahead of us. This was an additional inducement for us to +land, but we were unfortunately too slow, and the birds escaped us. We had +rushed in to the right bank, and found on ascending it, that the reeds +with which it had hitherto been lined, had partially ceased. A large +plain, similar to those over which we had wandered prior to our gaining +the flooded region, stretched away to a considerable distance behind us, +and was backed by cypresses and brush. The soil of the plain was a red +sandy loam, covered sparingly with salsolae and shrubs; thus indicating +that the country still preserved its barren character, and that it is the +same from north to south. Among the shrubs we found a tomb that appeared +to have been recently constructed. No mound had been raised over the body, +but an oval hollow shed occupied the centre of the burial place, that was +lined with reeds and bound together with strong net-work. Round this, the +usual walks were cut, and the recent traces of women's feet were visible +upon them, but we saw no natives, although, from the number and size of +the paths that led from the river, in various directions across the plain, +I was led to conclude, that, at certain seasons, it is hereabouts +numerously frequented. Fraser gathered some rushes similar to those used +by the natives of the Darling in the fabrication of their nets, and as +they had not before been observed, we judged them, of course, to be a sign +of our near approach to that river. + +ASPECT OF COUNTRY AND RIVER. + +As soon as we had taken a hasty dinner, we again embarked, and pursued our +journey. I had hoped, from the appearance of the country to the north of +us, although that to the south gave little indication of any change, that +we should soon clear the reeds; but at somewhat less than a mile they +closed in upon the river, and our frequent examination of the +neighbourhood on either side of it only tended to confirm the fact, that +we were passing through a country subject to great and extensive +inundation. We pulled up at half-past five, and could scarcely find space +enough to pitch our tents. + +The Morumbidgee kept a decidedly westerly course during the day. Its +channel was not so tortuous as we expected to have found it, nor did it +offer any obstruction to the passage of the boats. Its banks kept a +general height of eight feet, five of which were of alluvial soil, and +both its depth and its current were considerable. We calculated having +proceeded from 28 to 30 miles, though, perhaps, not more than half that +distance in a direct line. No rain fell during the day, but we experienced +some heavy squalls from the E.S.E. + +THE SKIFF STRIKES AND SINKS--LABOUR IN RECOVERING ARTICLES LOST. + +The second day of our journey from the depot was marked by an accident +that had well nigh obliged us to abandon the further pursuit of the river, +by depriving us of part of our means of carrying it into effect. We had +proceeded, as usual, at an early hour in the morning, and not long after +we started, fell in with the blacks who had visited us last, and who were +now in much better humour than upon that occasion. As they had their women +with them, we pushed in to the bank, and distributed some presents, after +which we dropped quietly down the river. Its general depth had been such +as to offer few obstructions to our progress, but about an hour after we +left the natives, the skiff struck upon a sunken log, and immediately +filling, went down in about twelve feet of water, The length of the +painter prevented any strain upon the whale-boat, but the consequence of +so serious an accident at once flashed upon our minds. That me should +suffer considerably, we could not doubt, but our object was to get the +skiff up with the least possible delay, to prevent the fresh water from +mixing with the brine, in the casks of meat. Some short time, however, +necessarily elapsed before we could effect this, and when at last the +skiff was hauled ashore, we found that we were too late to prevent the +mischief that we had anticipated. All the things had been fastened in the +boat, but either from the shock, or the force of the current, one of the +pork casks, the head of the still, and the greater part of the carpenter's +tools, had been thrown out of her. As the success of the expedition might +probably depend upon the complete state of the still, I determined to use +every effort for its recovery: but I was truly at a loss how to find it; +for the waters of the river were extremely turbid. In this dilemma, the +blacks would have been of the most essential service, but they were far +behind us, so that we had to depend on our own exertions alone. I directed +the whale-boat to be moored over the place where the accident had +happened, and then used the oars on either side of her, to feel along the +bottom of the river, in hopes that by these means we should strike upon +the articles we had lost. However unlikely such a measure was to prove +successful, we recovered in the course of the afternoon, every thing but +the still-head, and a cask of paint. Whenever the oar struck against the +substance that appeared, by its sound or feel to belong to us, it was +immediately pushed into the sand, and the upper end of the oar being held +by two men, another descended by it to the bottom of the river, remaining +under water as long as he could, to ascertain what was immediately within +arm's length of him. This work was, as may be imagined, most laborious, +and the men at length became much exhausted. They would not, however, give +up the search for the still head, more especially after M'Leay, in diving, +had descended upon it. Had he, by ascertaining his position, left it to us +to heave it up, our labours would soon have ended; but, in his anxiety for +its recovery, he tried to bring it up, when finding it too heavy, he let +it go, and the current again swept it away. + +At sunset. we were obliged to relinquish our task, the men complaining of +violent head-aches, which the nature of the day increased. Thinking our +own efforts would be unavailing, I directed two of the men to go up the +river for the blacks, at day-light in the morning, and set the reeds on +fire to attract their notice. The day had been cloudy and sultry in the +afternoon, the clouds collecting in the N.E.: we heard the distant +thunder, and expected to have been deluged with rain. None, however, +fell, although we were anxious for moisture to change the oppressive state +of the atmosphere. The fire I had kindled raged behind us, and threw dense +columns of smoke into the sky, that cast over the landscape a shade of the +most dismal gloom. We were not in a humour to admire the picturesque, but +soon betook ourselves to rest, and after such a day of labour as that we +had undergone, I dispensed with the night guard. + +PILFERING OF NATIVES. + +In the morning we resumed our search far the still head, which Hopkinson +at length fortunately struck with his oar. It had been swept considerably +below the place at which M'Leay had dived, or we should most probably have +found it sooner. With its recovery, all our fatigues were at once +forgotten, and I ordered the breakfast to be got ready preparatory to our +reloading the skiff. Fraser and Mulholland, who had left the camp at +daylight, had not yet returned. I was sitting in the tent, when Macnamee +came to inform me that one of the frying-pans was missing, which had +been in use the evening previous, for that he himself had placed it on the +stump of a tree, and he therefore supposed a native dog had run away with +it. Soon after this, another loss was reported to me, and it was at last +discovered that an extensive robbery had been committed upon us during +the night, and that, in addition to the frying-pan, three cutlasses, and +five tomahawks, with the pea of the steelyards, had been carried away. +I was extremely surprised at this instance of daring in the natives, and +determined, if possible, to punish it. About ten, Fraser and Mulholland +returned with two blacks. Fraser told me he saw several natives on our +side of the river, as he was returning, to whom those who were with him +spoke, and I felt convinced from their manner and hesitation, that they +were aware of the trick that had been played upon us. However, as Fraser +had promised them a tomahawk to induce them to accompany him, I fulfilled +the promise. + +CONTINUE OUR VOYAGE. + +Leaving this unlucky spot, we made good about sixteen miles during the +afternoon. The river maintained its breadth and depth nor were the reeds +continuous upon its banks. We passed several plains that were considerably +elevated above the alluvial deposits, and the general appearance of the +country induced me strongly to hope that we should shortly get out of the +region of reeds, or the great flooded concavity on which we had fixed our +depot; but the sameness of vegetation, and the seemingly diminutive size +of the timber in the distance, argued against any change for the better +in the soil of the interior. Having taken the precaution of shortening the +painter of the skiff, we found less difficulty in steering her clear +of obstacles, and made rapid progress down the Morumbidgee during the +first cool and refreshing hours of the morning. The channel of the river +became somewhat less contracted, but still retained sufficient depth for +larger boats than ours, and preserved a general westerly course. Although +no decline of country was visible to the eye, the current in places ran +very strong. It is impossible for me to convey to the reader's mind an +idea of the nature of the country through which we passed. On this day the +favourable appearances, noticed yesterday, ceased almost as soon as we +embarked. On the 10th, reeds lined the banks of the river on both sides, +without any break, and waved like gloomy streamers over its turbid waters; +while the trees stood leafless and sapless in the midst of them. Wherever +we landed, the same view presented itself--a waving expanse of reeds, and +a country as flat as it is possible to imagine one. The eye could seldom +penetrate beyond three quarters of a mile, and the labour of walking +through the reeds was immense; but within our observation all was green +and cheerless. The morning had been extremely cold, with a thick haze at +E.S.E. About 2 p.m. it came on to rain heavily, so that we did not stir +after that hour. + +CONTRACTION OF THE CHANNEL. + +I had remarked that the Morumbidgee was not, from the depot downwards, so +broad or so fine a river as it certainly is at the foot of the mountain +ranges, where it gains the level country. The observations of the last two +days had impressed upon my mind an idea that it was rapidly falling off, +and I began to dread that it would finally terminate in one of those fatal +marshes in which the Macquarie and the Lachlan exhaust themselves. My hope +of a more favourable issue was considerably damped by the general +appearance of the surrounding country; and from the circumstance of our +not having as yet passed a single tributary. As we proceeded down the +river, its channel gradually contracted, and immense trees that had been +swept down it by floods, rendered the navigation dangerous and intricate. +Its waters became so turbid, that it was impossible to see objects in it, +notwithstanding the utmost diligence on the part of the men. + +About noon, we fell in with a large tribe of natives, but had great +difficulty in bringing them to visit us. If they had HEARD of white men, +we were evidently the first they had ever SEEN. They approached us in the +most cautious manner, and were unable to subdue their fears as long as +they remained with us. Collectively, these people could not have amounted +to less than one hundred and twenty in number. + +ANOTHER ACCIDENT. + +As we pushed off from the bank, after having stayed with them about half +an hour, the whaleboat struck with such violence on a sunken log, that she +immediately leaked on her starboard side. Fortunately she was going slowly +at the time, or she would most probably have received some more serious +injury. One of the men was employed during the remainder of the afternoon +in bailing her out, and we stopped sooner than we should otherwise have +done, in order to ascertain the extent of damage, and to repair it. The +reeds terminated on both sides of the river some time before we pulled up, +and the country round the camp was more elevated than usual, and bore the +appearance of open forest pasture land, the timber upon it being a dwarf +species of box, and the soil a light tenacious earth. + +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER. + +About a mile below our encampment of the 12th, we at length came upon a +considerable creek-junction from the S.E. Below it, the river increased +both in breadth and depth; banks were lofty and perpendicular, and even +the lowest levels were but partially covered with reeds. We met with fewer +obstructions in consequence, and pursued our journey with restored +confidence. Towards evening a great change also took place in the aspect +of the country, which no longer bore general marks of inundation. The +level of the interior was broken by a small hill to the right of the +stream, but the view from its summit rather damped than encouraged my +hopes of any improvement. The country was covered with wood and brush, and +the line of the horizon was unbroken by the least swell. We were on an +apparently boundless flat, without any fixed point on which to direct our +movements, nor was there a single object for the eye to rest upon, beyond +the dark and gloomy wood that surrounded us on every side. + +Soon after passing this hill, the whale-boat struck upon a line of sunken +rocks, but fortunately escaped without injury. Mulholland, who was +standing in the bow, was thrown out of her, head foremost, and got a good +soaking, but soon recovered himself. The composition of the rock was +iron-stone, and it is the first formation that occurs westward of the +dividing range. We noticed a few cypresses in the distance, but the +general timber was dwarf-box, or flooded-gum, and a few of the acacia +longa scattered at great distances. In verifying our position by some +lunars, we found ourselves in 142 degrees 46 minutes 30 seconds of east +long., and in lat. 35 degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds S. the mean variation +of the compass being 4 degrees 10 minutes E. it appearing that we were +decreasing the variation as we proceeded westward. + +On the 13th, we passed the first running stream that joins the +Morumbidgee, in a course of more than 340 miles. It came from the S.E., +and made a visible impression on the river at the junction, although in +tracing it up, it appeared to be insignificant in itself. The circumstance +of these tributaries all occurring on the left, evidenced the level nature +of the country to the north. In the afternoon, we passed a dry creek also +from the S.E. which must at times throw a vast supply of water into the +river, since for many miles below, the latter preserved a breadth of +200 feet, and averaged from 12 to 20 feet in depth, with banks of from +15 to 18 feet in height. Yet, notwithstanding its general equality of +depth, several rapids occurred, down which the boats were hurried with +great velocity. The body of water in the river continued undiminished, +notwithstanding its increased breadth of channel; for which reason I +should imagine that it is fed by springs, independently of other supplies. +Some few cypresses were again observed, and the character of the distant +country resembled, in every particular, that of the interior between the +Macquarie and the Darling. The general appearance of the Morumbidgee, from +the moment of our starting on the 13th, to a late hour in the afternoon, +had been such as to encourage my hopes of ultimate success in tracing it +down; but about three o'clock we came to one of those unaccountable and +mortifying changes which had already so frequently excited my +apprehension. Its channel again suddenly contracted, and became almost +blocked up with huge trees, that must have found their way into it down +the creeks or junctions we had lately passed. The rapidity of the current +increasing at the same time, rendered the navigation perplexing and +dangerous. We Passed reach after reach, presenting the same difficulties, +and were at length obliged to pull up at 5 p.m., having a scene of +confusion and danger before us that I did not dare to encounter with the +evening's light; for I had not only observed that the men's eye-sight +failed them as the sun descended, and that they mistook shadows for +objects under water, and VICE-VERSA, but the channel had become so narrow +that, although the banks were not of increased height, we were involved in +comparative darkness, under a close arch of trees, and a danger was hardly +seen ere we were hurried past it, almost without the possibility of +avoiding it. The reach at the head of which we stopped, was crowded with +the trunks of trees, the branches of which crossed each other in every +direction, nor could I hope, after a minute examination of the channel, +to succeed in taking the boats safely down so intricate a passage. + +DANGEROUS NAVIGATION OF THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +We rose in the morning with feelings of apprehension, and uncertainty; +and, indeed, with great doubts on our minds whether we were not thus early +destined to witness the wreck, and the defeat of the expedition. The men +got slowly and cautiously into the boat, and placed themselves so as to +leave no part of her undefended. Hopkinson stood at the bow, ready with +poles to turn her head from anything upon which she might be drifting. +Thus prepared, we allowed her to go with the stream. By extreme care and +attention on the part of the men we passed this formidable barrier. +Hopkinson in particular exerted himself, and more than once leapt from the +boat upon apparently rotten logs of wood, that I should not have judged +capable of bearing his weight, the more effectually to save the boat. +It might have been imagined that where such a quantity of timber had +accumulated, a clearer channel would have been found below, but such was +not the case. In every reach we had to encounter fresh difficulties. In +some places huge trees lay athwart the stream, under whose arched branches +we were obliged to pass; but, generally speaking, they had been carried, +roots foremost, by the current, and, therefore, presented so many points +to receive us, that, at the rate at which we were going, had we struck +full upon any one of them, it would have gone through and through the +boat. About noon we stopped to repair, or rather to take down the remains +of our awning, which had been torn away; and to breathe a moment from the +state of apprehension and anxiety in which our minds had been kept during +the morning. About one, we again started. The men looked anxiously out +ahead; for the singular change in the river had impressed on them an idea, +that we were approaching its termination, or near some adventure. On a +sudden, the river took a general southern direction, but, in its tortuous +course, swept round to every point of the compass with the greatest +irregularity. We were carried at a fearful rate down its gloomy and +contracted banks, and, in such a moment of excitement, had little time to +pay attention to the country through which we were passing. It was, +however, observed, that chalybeate-springs were numerous close to the +water's edge. At 3 p.m., Hopkinson called out that we were approaching +a junction, and in less than a minute afterwards, we were hurried into a +broad and noble river. + +JUNCTION OF A LARGE RIVER--CHARACTER OF THE RIVER. + +It is impossible for me to describe the effect of so instantaneous a +change of circumstances upon us. The boats were allowed to drift along at +pleasure, and such was the force with which we had been shot out of the +Morumbidgee, that we were carried nearly to the bank opposite its +embouchure, whilst we continued to gaze in silent astonishment on the +capacious channel we had entered; and when we looked for that by which we +had been led into it, we could hardly believe that the insignificant gap +that presented itself to us was, indeed, the termination of the beautiful +and noble stream, whose course we had thus successfully followed. I can +only compare the relief we experienced to that which the seaman feels on +weathering the rock upon which be expected his vessel would have +struck--to the calm which succeeds moments of feverish anxiety, when the +dread of danger is succeeded by the certainty of escape. + +To myself personally, the discovery of this rivet was a circumstance of a +particularly gratifying nature, since it not only confirmed the justness +of my opinion as to the ultimate fate of the Morumbidgee, and bore me out +in the apparently rash and hasty step I had taken at the depot, but +assured me of ultimate success in the duty I had to perform. We had got on +the high road, as it were, either to the south coast, or to some +important outlet; and the appearance of the river itself was such as to +justify our most sanguine expectations. I could not doubt its being the +great channel of the streams from the S.E. angle of the island. Mr. Hume +had mentioned to me that he crossed three very considerable streams, when +employed with Mr. Hovell in 1823 in penetrating towards Port Phillips, to +which the names of the Goulburn, the Hume, and the Ovens, had been given; +and as I was 300 miles from the track these gentlemen had pursued, I +considered it more than probable that those rivers must already have +formed a junction above me, more especially when I reflected that the +convexity of the mountains to the S.E. would necessarily direct the waters +falling inwards from them to a common centre. + +We entered the new river at right angles, and, as I have remarked, at the +point of junction the channel of the Morumbidgee had narrowed so as to +bear all the appearance of an ordinary creek. In breadth it did not exceed +fifty feet, and if, instead of having passed down it, I had been making my +way up the principal streams, I should little have dreamt that so dark and +gloomy an outlet concealed a river that would lead me to the haunts of +civilized man, and whose fountains rose amidst snow-clad mountains. Such, +however, is the characteristic of the streams falling to the westward of +the coast ranges. Descending into a low and level interior, and depending +on their immediate springs for existence, they fall off, as they increase +their distance from the base of the mountains in which they rise, and in +their lower branches give little results of the promise they had +previously made. + +The opinion I have expressed, and which is founded on my personal +experience, that the rivers crossed by Messrs. Hovell and Hume had +already united above me, was strengthened by the capacity of the stream we +had just discovered. It had a medium width of 350 feet, with a depth of +from twelve to twenty. Its reaches were from half to three-quarters of a +mile in length, and the views upon it were splendid. Of course, as the +Morumbidgee entered it from the north, its first reach must have been +E. and W., and it was so, as nearly as possible; but it took us a little +to the southward of the latter point, in a distance of about eight miles +that we pulled down it in the course of the afternoon. We then landed and +pitched our tents for the night. Its transparent waters were running over +a sandy bed at the rate of two-and-a-half knots an hour, and its banks, +although averaging eighteen feet in height, were evidently subject to +floods. + +ABSENCE OF NATIVES. + +We had not seen any natives since falling in with the last tribe on the +Morumbidgee. A cessation had, therefore, taken place in our communication +with them, in re-establishing which I anticipated considerable difficulty. +It appeared singular that we should not have fallen in with any for +several successive days, more especially at the junction of the two +rivers, as in similar situations they generally have an establishment. In +examining the country back from the stream, I did not observe any large +paths, but it was evident that fires had made extensive ravages in the +neighbourhood, so that the country was, perhaps, only temporarily +deserted. Macnamee, who had wandered a little from the tents, declared +that he had seen about a dozen natives round a fire, from whom (if he +really did see them) he very precipitately fled, but I was inclined to +discredit his story, because in our journey on the following day, we +did not see even a casual wanderer. + +WEATHER, TEMPERATURE, &C. + +The river maintained its character, and raised our hopes to the highest +pitch. Its breadth varied from 160 to 200 yards; and only in one place, +where a reef of iron-stone stretched nearly across from the left bank, +so as to contract the channel near the right and to form a considerable +rapid, was there any apparent obstruction to our navigation. I was sorry, +however, to remark that the breadth of alluvial soil between its outer and +inner banks was very inconsiderable, and that the upper levels were poor +and sandy. Blue-gum generally occupied the former, while the usual +productions of the plains still predominated upon the latter, and showed +that the distant interior had not yet undergone any favourable change. +We experienced strong breezes from the north, but the range of the +thermometer was high, and the weather rather oppressive than otherwise. +On the night of the 16th, we had a strong wind from the N.W., but it +moderated with day-light, and shifted to the E.N.E., and the day was +favourable and cool. Our progress was in every way satisfactory, and if +any change had taken place in the river, it was that the banks had +increased in height, in many places to thirty feet, the soil being a red +loam, and the surface much above the reach of floods. The bank opposite to +the one that was so elevated, was proportionably low, and, in general, not +only heavily timbered, but covered with reeds, and backed by a chain of +ponds at the base of the outer embankment. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. + +About 4 p.m., some natives were observed running by the river side behind +us, but on our turning the boat's head towards the shore, they ran away. +It was evident that they had no idea what we were, and, from their +timidity, feeling assured that it would be impossible to bring them to a +parley, we continued onwards till our usual hour of stopping, when we +pitched our tents on the left bank for the night, it being the one +opposite to that on which the natives had appeared. We conjectured that +their curiosity would lead them to follow us, which they very shortly did; +for we had scarcely made ourselves comfortable when we heard their wild +notes through the woods as they advanced towards the river; and their +breaking into view with their spears and shields, and painted and prepared +as they were for battle, was extremely fine. They stood threatening us, +and making a great noise, for a considerable time, but, finding that we +took no notice of them, they, at length, became quiet. I then walked to +some little distance from the party, and taking a branch in my hand, as a +sign of peace, beckoned them to swim to our side of the river, which, +after some time, two or three of them did. But they approached me with +great caution, hesitating at every step. They soon, however, gained +confidence, and were ultimately joined by all the males of their tribe. +I gave the FIRST who swam the river a tomahawk (making this a rule in +order to encourage them) with which he was highly delighted. I shortly +afterwards placed them all in a row and fired a gun before them: they were +quite unprepared for such an explosion, and after standing stupified and +motionless for a moment or two, they simultaneously took to their heels, +to our great amusement. I succeeded, however, in calling them back, and +they regained their confidence so much, that sixteen of them remained with +us all night, but the greater number retired at sunset. + +On the following morning, they accompanied us down the river, where we +fell in with their tribe, who were stationed on an elevated bank a short +distance below--to the number of eighty-three men, women, and children. +Their appearance was extremely picturesque and singular. They wanted us to +land, but time was too precious for such delays. Some of the boldest of +the natives swam round and round the boat so as to impede the use of the +oars, and the women on the bank evinced their astonishment by mingled +yells and cries. They entreated us, by signs, to remain with them, but, as +I foresaw a compliance on this occasion would hereafter be attended with +inconvenience, I thought it better to proceed on our journey, and the +natives soon ceased their importunities, and, indeed, did not follow or +molest us. + +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER BANKS. + +The river improved upon us at every mile. Its reaches were of noble +breadth, and splendid appearance. Its current was stronger, and it was fed +by numerous springs. Rocks, however, were more frequent in its bed, and in +two places almost formed a barrier across the channel, leaving but a +narrow space for the boats to go down. We passed several elevations of +from 70 to 90 feet in height, at the base of which the stream swept along. +The soil of these elevations was a mixture of clay (marl) and sand, upon +coarse sandstone. Their appearance and the manner in which they had been +acted upon by water, was singular, and afforded a proof of the violence of +the rains in this part of the interior. From the highest of these, I +observed that the country to the S.E. was gently undulated, and so far +changed in character from that through which we had been travelling; +still, however, it was covered with a low scrub, and was barren and +unpromising. + +About noon of the 18th, we surprised two women at the water-side, who +immediately retreated into the brush. Shortly after, four men showed +themselves, and followed us for a short distance, but hid themselves upon +our landing. The country still appeared undulated to the S.E.; the soil +was sandy, and cypresses more abundant than any other tree. We passed +several extensive sand-banks in the river, of unusual size and solidity, +an evident proof of the sandy nature of the interior generally. The vast +accumulations of sand at the junctions of every creek were particularly +remarkable. The timber on the alluvial flats was not by any means so large +as we had hitherto observed it; nor were the flats themselves so extensive +as they are on the Morumbidgee and the Macquarie. Notwithstanding the +aspect of the country which I have described, no POSITIVE change had as +yet taken place in the general feature of the interior. The river +continued to flow in a direction somewhat to the northward of west, +through a country that underwent no perceptible alteration. Its waters, +confined to their immediate bed, swept along considerably below the level +of its inner banks; and the spaces between them and the outer ones, though +generally covered with reeds, seemed not recently to have been flooded; +while on the other hand, they had, in many places, from successive +depositions, risen to a height far above the reach of inundation. Still, +however, the more remote interior maintained its sandy and sterile +character, and stretched away, in alternate plain and wood, to a distance +far beyond the limits of our examination. + +About the 21st, a very evident change took place in it. The banks of the +river suddenly acquired a perpendicular and water-worn appearance. Their +summits were perfectly level, and no longer confined by a secondary +embankment, but preserved an uniform equality of surface back from the +stream. These banks, although so abrupt, were not so high as the upper +levels, or secondary embankments. They indicated a deep alluvial deposit, +and yet, being high above the reach of any ordinary flood, were covered +with grass, under an open box forest, into which a moderately dense scrub +occasionally penetrated. We had fallen into a concavity similar to those +of the marshes, but successive depositions had almost filled it, and no +longer subject to inundation, it had lost all the character of those +flooded tracts. The kind of country I have been describing, lay rather to +the right than to the left of the river at this place, the latter +continuing low and swampy, as if the country to the south of the river +were still subject to inundation. As the expedition proceeded, the left +bank gradually assumed the appearance of the right; both looked water-worn +and perpendicular, and though not more than from nine to ten feet in +height, their summits were perfectly level in receding, and bore +diminutive box-timber, with widely-scattered vegetation. Not a single +elevation had, as yet, broken the dark and gloomy monotony of the +interior; but as our observations were limited to a short distance from +the river, our surmises on the nature of the distant country were +necessarily involved in some uncertainty. + +THREATENED ATTACK--AMICABLE CONFERENCE. + +On the 19th, as we were about to conclude our journey for the day, we saw +a large body of natives before us. On approaching them, they showed every +disposition for combat, and ran along the bank with spears in rests, as if +only waiting for an opportunity to throw them at us. They were upon the +right, and as the river was broad enough to enable me to steer wide of +them, I did not care much for their threats; but upon another party +appearing upon the left bank, I thought it high time to disperse one or +the other of them, as the channel was not wide enough to enable me to keep +clear of danger, if assailed by both, as I might be while keeping amid the +channel. I found, however, that they did not know how to use the advantage +they possessed, as the two divisions formed a junction; those on the left +swimming over to the stronger body upon the right bank. This, fortunately, +prevented the necessity of any hostile measure on my part, and we were +suffered to proceed unmolested, for the present. The whole then followed +us without any symptom of fear, but making a dreadful shouting, and +beating their spears and shields together, by way of intimidation. It is +but justice to my men to say that in this critical situation they evinced +the greatest coolness, though it was impossible for any one to witness +such a scene with indifference. As I did not intend to fatigue the men by +continuing to pull farther than we were in the habit of doing, we landed +at our usual time on the left bank, and while the people were pitching the +tents, I walked down the bank with M'Leay, to treat with these desperadoes +in the best way we could, across the water, a measure to which my men +showed great reluctance, declaring that if during our absence the natives +approached them, they would undoubtedly fire upon them. I assured them it +was not my intention to go out of their sight. We took our guns with us, +but determined not to use them until the last extremity, both from a +reluctance to shed blood and with a view to our future security. I held a +long pantomimical dialogue with them, across the water, and held out the +olive branch in token of amity. They at length laid aside their spears, +and a long consultation took place among them, which ended in two or three +wading into the river, contrary, as it appeared, to the earnest +remonstrances of the majority, who, finding that their entreaties had no +effect, wept aloud, and followed them with a determination, I am sure, of +sharing their fate, whatever it might have been. As soon as they landed, +M'Leay and I retired to a little distance from the bank, and sat down; +that being the usual way among the natives of the interior, to invite to +an interview. When they saw us act thus, they approached, and sat down by +us, but without looking up, from a kind of diffidence peculiar to them, +and which exists even among the nearest relatives, as I have already had +occasion to observe. As they gained confidence, however, they showed an +excessive curiosity, and stared at us in the most earnest manner. We now +led them to the camp, and I gave, as was my custom, the first who had +approached, a tomahawk; and to the others, some pieces of iron hoop. Those +who had crossed the river amounted to about thirty-five in number. +At sunset, the majority of them left us; but three old men remained at +the fire-side all night. I observed that few of them had either lost their +front teeth or lacerated their bodies, as the more westerly tribes do. The +most loathsome diseases prevailed among them. Several were disabled by +leprosy, or some similar disorder, and two or three had entirely lost +their sight. They are, undoubtedly, a brave and a confiding people, and +are by no means wanting in natural affection. In person, they resemble the +mountain tribes. They had the thick lip, the sunken eye, the extended +nostril, and long beards, and both smooth and curly hair are common among +them. Their lower extremities appear to bear no proportion to their bust +in point of muscular strength; but the facility with which they ascend +trees of the largest growth, and the activity with which they move upon +all occasions, together with their singularly erect stature, argue that +such appearance is entirely deceptive. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. + +The old men slept very soundly by the fire, and were the last to get up in +the morning. M'Leay's extreme good humour had made a most favourable +impression upon them, and I can picture him, even now, joining in their +wild song. Whether it was from his entering so readily into their mirth, +or from anything peculiar that struck them, the impression upon the whole +of us was, that they took him to have been originally a black, in +consequence of which they gave him the name of Rundi. Certain it is, they +pressed him to show his side, and asked if he had not received a wound +there--evidently as if the original Rundi had met with a violent death +from a spear-wound in that place. The whole tribe, amounting in number to +upwards of 150, assembled to see us take our departure. Four of them +accompanied us, among whom there was one remarkable for personal strength +and stature.--The 21st passed without our falling in with any new tribe, +and the night of the 22nd, saw us still wandering in that lonely desert +together. There was something unusual in our going through such an extent +of country without meeting another tribe, but our companions appeared to +be perfectly aware of the absence of inhabitants, as they never left +our side. + +Although the banks of the river had been of general equality of height, +sandy elevations still occasionally formed a part of them, and their +summits were considerably higher than the alluvial flats. + +RAPID IN THE RIVER--DANGEROUS DESCENT OF THE BOATS. + +It was upon the crest of one of these steep and lofty banks, that on the +morning of the 22nd, the natives who were a-head of the boat, suddenly +stopped to watch our proceedings down a foaming rapid that ran beneath. +We were not aware of the danger to which we were approaching, until we +turned an angle of the river, and found ourselves too near to retreat. +In such a moment, without knowing what was before them, the coolness of +the men was strikingly exemplified. No one even spoke after they became +aware that silence was necessary. The natives (probably anticipating +misfortune) stood leaning upon their spears upon the lofty bank above us. +Desiring the men not to move from their seats, I stood up to survey the +channel, and to steer the boat to that part of it which was least impeded +by rocks. I was obliged to decide upon a hasty survey, as we were already +at the head of the rapid. It appeared to me that there were two passages, +the one down the centre of the river, the other immediately under its +right bank. A considerable rock stood directly in own way to the latter, +so that I had no alternative but to descend the former. About forty yards +below the rock, I noticed that a line of rocks occupied the space between +the two channels, whilst a reef, projecting from the left bank, made the +central passage distinctly visible, and the rapidity of the current +proportionably great. I entertained hopes that the passage was clear, and +that we should shoot down it without interruption; but in this I was +disappointed. The boat struck with the fore-part of her keel on a sunken +rock, and, swinging round as it were on a pivot, presented her bow to the +rapid, while the skiff floated away into the strength of it. We had every +reason to anticipate the loss of our whale-boat, whose build was so light, +that had her side struck the rock, instead of her keel, she would have +been laid open from stem to stern. As it was, however, she remained fixed +in her position, and it only remained for us to get her off the best way +we could. I saw that this could only be done by sending two of the men +with a rope to the upper rock, and getting the boat, by that means, into +the still water, between that and the lower one. We should then have time +to examine the channels, and to decide as to that down which it would be +safest to proceed. My only fear was, that the loss of the weight of the +two men would lighten the boat so much, that she would be precipitated +down the rapid without my having any command over her; but it happened +otherwise. We succeeded in getting her into the still water, and +ultimately took her down the channel under the right bank, without her +sustaining any injury. A few miles below this rapid the river took a +singular bend, and we found, after pulling several miles, that we were +within a stone's throw of a part of the stream we had already +sailed down. + +The four natives joined us in the camp, and assisted the men at their +various occupations. The consequence was, that they were treated with more +than ordinary kindness; and Fraser, for his part, in order to gratify +these favoured guests, made great havoc among the feathered race. He +returned after a short ramble with a variety of game, among which were a +crow, a kite, and a laughing jackass (alcedo gigantea,) a species of +king's-fisher, a singular bird, found in every part of Australia. Its cry, +which resembles a chorus of wild spirits, is apt to startle the traveller +who may be in jeopardy, as if laughing and mocking at his misfortune. +It is a harmless bird, and I seldom allowed them to be destroyed, as they +were sure to rouse us with the earliest dawn. To this list of Fraser's +spoils, a duck and a tough old cockatoo, must be added. The whole of these +our friends threw on the fire without the delay of plucking, and snatched +them from that consuming element ere they were well singed, and devoured +them with uncommon relish. + +DESERTED NATIVE VILLAGE. + +We pitched our tents upon a flat of good and tenacious soil. A brush, in +which there was a new species of melaleuca, backed it, in the thickest +part of which we found a deserted native village. The spot was evidently +chosen for shelter. The huts were large and long, all facing the same +point of the compass, and in every way resembling the huts occupied by the +natives of the Darling. Large flocks of whistling ducks, and other wild +fowl, flew over our heads to the N.W., as if making their way to some +large or favourite waters. My observations placed us in lat. 34 degrees +8 minutes 15 seconds south, and in east long. 141 degrees 9 minutes +42 seconds or nearly so; and I was at a loss to conceive what direction +the river would ultimately take. We were considerably to the N.W. of the +point at which we had entered it, and in referring to the chart, it +appeared, that if the Darling had kept a S.W. course from where the last +expedition left its banks, we ought ere this to have struck upon it, +or have arrived at its junction with the stream on which we were +journeying. + +CONVERSING BY SIGNS. + +The natives, in attempting to answer my interrogatories, only perplexed +me more and more. They evidently wished to explain something, by placing a +number of sticks across each other as a kind of diagram of the country. It +was, however, impossible to arrive at their meaning. They undoubtedly +pointed to the westward, or rather to the south of that point, as the +future course of the river; but there was something more that they were +anxious to explain, which I could not comprehend. The poor fellows seemed +quite disappointed, and endeavoured to beat it into Fraser's head with as +little success. I then desired Macnamee to get up into a tree. From the +upper branches of it he said he could see hills; but his account of their +appearance was such that I doubted his story: nevertheless it might have +been correct. He certainly called our attention to a large fire, as if the +country to the N.W. was in flames, so that it appeared we were approaching +the haunts of the natives at last. + +It happened that Fraser and Harris were for guard, and they sat up +laughing and talking with the natives long after we retired to rest. +Fraser, to beguile the hours, proposed shaving his sable companions, and +performed that operation with admirable dexterity upon their chief, to his +great delight. I got up at an early hour, and found to my surprise that +the whole of them had deserted us. Harris told me they had risen from the +fire about an hour before, and had crossed the river. I was a little +angry, but supposed they were aware that we were near some tribe, and had +gone on a-head to prepare and collect them. + +LARGE CONCOURSE OF NATIVES--THEIR HOSTILE DEMEANOUR. + +After breakfast, we proceeded onwards as usual. The river had increased so +much in width that, the wind being fair, I hoisted sail for the first +time, to save the strength of my men as much as possible. Our progress was +consequently rapid. We passed through a country that, from the nature of +its soil and other circumstances, appeared to be intersected by creeks and +lagoons. Vast flights of wild fowl passed over us, but always at a +considerable elevation, while, on the other hand, the paucity of ducks on +the river excited our surprise. Latterly, the trees upon the river, and in +its neighbourhood, had been a tortuous kind of box. The flooded-gum grew +in groups on the spaces subject to inundation, but not on the levels above +the influence of any ordinary rise of the stream. Still they were much +smaller than they were observed to be in the higher branches of the river. +We had proceeded about nine miles, when we were surprised by the +appearance in view, at the termination of a reach, of a long line of +magnificent trees of green and dense foliage. As we sailed down the reach, +we observed a vast concourse of natives under them, and, on a nearer +approach, we not only heard their war-song, if it might so be called, but +remarked that they were painted and armed, as they generally are, prior +to their engaging in deadly conflict. Notwithstanding these outward signs +of hostility, fancying that our four friends were with them, I continued +to steer directly in for the bank on which they were collected. I found, +however, when it was almost too late to turn into the succeeding reach +to our left, that an attempt to land would only be attended with loss of +life. The natives seemed determined to resist it. We approached so near +that they held their spears quivering in their grasp ready to hurl. They +were painted in various ways. Some who had marked their ribs, and thighs, +and faces with a white pigment, looked like skeletons, others were daubed +over with red and yellow ochre, and their bodies shone with the grease +with which they had besmeared themselves. A dead silence prevailed among +the front ranks, but those in the back ground, as well as the women, who +carried supplies of darts, and who appeared to have had a bucket of +whitewash capsized over their heads, were extremely clamorous. As I did +not wish a conflict with these people, I lowered my sail, and putting the +helm to starboard, we passed quietly down the stream in mid channel. +Disappointed in their anticipations, the natives ran along the bank of the +river, endeavouring to secure an aim at us; but, unable to throw with +certainty, in consequence of the onward motion of the boat, they flung +themselves into the most extravagant attitudes, and worked themselves into +a state of frenzy by loud and vehement shouting. + +PREPARATIONS FOR CONFLICT--UNEXPECTED INTERFERENCE. + +It was with considerable apprehension that I observed the river to be +shoaling fast, more especially as a huge sand-bank, a little below us, and +on the same side on which the natives had gathered, projected nearly a +third-way across the channel. To this sand-bank they ran with tumultuous +uproar, and covered it over in a dense mass. Some of the chiefs advanced +to the water to be nearer their victims, and turned from time to time to +direct their followers. With every pacific disposition, and an extreme +reluctance to take away life, I foresaw that it would be impossible any +longer to avoid an engagement, yet with such fearful numbers against us, +I was doubtful of the result. The spectacle we had witnessed had been one +of the most appalling kind, and sufficient to shake the firmness of most +men; but at that trying moment my little band preserved their temper +coolness, and if any thing could be gleaned from their countenances, it +was that they had determined on an obstinate resistance. I now explained +to them that their only chance of escape depended, or would depend, on +their firmness. I desired that after the first volley had been fired, +M'Leay and three of the men, would attend to the defence of the boat with +bayonets only, while I, Hopkinson, and Harris, would keep up the fire as +being more used to it. I ordered, however, that no shot was to be fired +until after I had discharged both my barrels. I then delivered their arms +to the men, which had as yet been kept in the place appropriated for them, +and at the same time some rounds of loose cartridge. The men assured me +they would follow my instructions, and thus prepared, having already +lowered the sail, we drifted onwards with the current. As we neared the +sand-bank, I stood up and made signs to the natives to desist; +but without success. I took up my gun, therefore, and cocking it, +had already brought it down to a level. A few seconds more would +have closed the life of the nearest of the savages. The distance +was too trifling for me to doubt the fatal effects of the discharge; +for I was determined to take deadly aim, in hopes that the fall of +one man might save the lives of many. But at the very moment, when +my hand was on the trigger, and my eye was along the barrel, my +purpose was checked by M'Leay, who called to me that another party of +blacks had made their appearance upon the left bank of the river. Turning +round, I observed four men at the top of their speed. The foremost of +them as soon as he got a-head of the boat, threw himself from a +considerable height into the water. He struggled across the channel to the +sand-bank, and in an incredibly short space of time stood in front of the +savage, against whom my aim had been directed. Seizing him by the throat, +he pushed backwards, and forcing all who were in the water upon the bank, +he trod its margin with a vehemence and an agitation that were exceedingly +striking. At one moment pointing to the boat, at another shaking his +clenched hand in the faces of the most forward, and stamping with passion +on the sand; his voice, that was at first distinct and clear, was lost in +hoarse murmurs. Two of the four natives remained on the left bank of the +river, but the third followed his leader, (who proved to be the remarkable +savage I have previously noticed) to the scene of action. The reader will +imagine our feelings on this occasion: it is impossible to describe them. +We were so wholly lost in interest at the scene that was passing, that the +boat was allowed to drift at pleasure. For my own part I was overwhelmed +with astonishment, and in truth stunned and confused; so singular, so +unexpected, and so strikingly providential, had been our escape. + +JUNCTION OF ANOTHER STREAM--PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE FROM DANGER. + +We were again roused to action by the boat suddenly striking upon a shoal, +which reached from one side of the river to the other. To jump out and +push her into deeper water was but the work of a moment with the men, and +it was just as she floated again that our attention was withdrawn to a new +and beautiful stream, coming apparently from the north. The great body of +the natives having posted themselves on the narrow tongue of land formed +by the two rivers, the bold savage who had so unhesitatingly interfered +on our account, was still in hot dispute with them, and I really feared +his generous warmth would have brought down upon him the vengeance of the +tribes. I hesitated, therefore, whether or not to go to his assistance. +It appeared, however, both to M'Leay and myself, that the tone of the +natives had moderated, and the old and young men having listened to the +remonstrances of our friend, the middle-aged warriors were alone holding +out against him. A party of about seventy blacks were upon the right bank +of the newly discovered river, and I thought that by landing among them, +we should make a diversion in favour of our late guest; and in this I +succeeded. If even they had still meditated violence, they would have to +swim a good broad junction, and that, probably, would cool them, or we +at least should have the advantage of position. I therefore, ran the boat +ashore, and landed with M'Leay amidst the smaller party of natives, wholly +unarmed, and having directed the men to keep at a little distance from the +bank. Fortunately, what I anticipated was brought about by the stratagem +to which I had had recourse. The blacks no sooner observed that we had +landed, than curiosity took place of anger. All wrangling ceased, and they +came swimming over to us like a parcel of seals. Thus, in less than a +quarter of an hour from the moment when it appeared that all human +intervention was at on end, and we were on the point of commencing a +bloody fray, which, independently of its own disastrous consequences, +would have blasted the success of the expedition, we were peacefully +surrounded by the hundreds who had so lately threatened us with +destruction; nor was it until after we had returned to the boat, and had +surveyed the multitude upon the sloping bank above us, that we became +fully aware of the extent of our danger, and of the almost miraculous +intervention of Providence in our favour. There could not have been less +than six hundred natives upon that blackened sward. But this was not the +only occasion upon which the merciful superintendance of that Providence +to which we had humbly committed ourselves, was strikingly manifested. +If these pages fail to convey entertainment or information, sufficient may +at least be gleaned from them to furnish matter for serious reflection; +but to those who have been placed in situations of danger where human +ingenuity availed them not, and where human foresight was baffled, I feel +persuaded that these remarks are unnecessary. + +NEW RIVER, SUPPOSED TO BE THE DARLING. + +It was my first care to call for our friend, and to express to him, as +well as I could, how much we stood indebted to him, at the same time that +I made him a suitable present; but to the chiefs of the tribes, +I positively refused all gifts, notwithstanding their earnest +solicitations. We next prepared to examine the new river, and turning the +boat's head towards it, endeavoured to pull up the stream. Our larboard +oars touched the right bank, and the current was too strong for us to +conquer it with a pair only; we were, therefore, obliged to put a second +upon her, a movement that excited the astonishment and admiration of the +natives. One old woman seemed in absolute ecstasy, to whom M'Leay threw an +old tin kettle, in recompense for the amusement she afforded us. + +HOIST THE UNION JACK. + +As soon as we got above the entrance of the new river, we found easier +pulling, and proceeded up it for some miles, accompanied by the once more +noisy multitude. The river preserved a breadth of one hundred yards, and a +depth of rather more than twelve feet. Its banks were sloping and grassy, +and were overhung by trees of magnificent size. Indeed, its appearance was +so different from the water-worn banks of the sister stream, that the men +exclaimed, on entering it, that we had got into an English river. Its +appearance certainly almost justified the expression; for the greenness of +its banks was as new to us as the size of its timber. Its waters, though +sweet, were turbid, and had a taste of vegetable decay, as well as a +slight tinge of green. Our progress was watched by the natives with +evident anxiety. They kept abreast of us, and talked incessantly. +At length, however, our course was checked by a net that stretched right +across the stream. I say checked, because it would have been unfair to +have passed over it with the chance of disappointing the numbers who +apparently depended on it for subsistence that day. The moment was one of +intense interest to me. As the men rested upon their oars, awaiting my +further orders, a crowd of thoughts rushed upon me. The various +conjectures I had formed of the course and importance of the Darling +passed across my mind. Were they indeed realized? An irresistible +conviction impressed me that we were now sailing on the bosom of that very +stream from whose banks I had been twice forced to retire. I directed the +Union Jack to be hoisted, and giving way to our satisfaction, we all stood +up in the boat, and gave three distinct cheers. It was an English feeling, +an ebullition, an overflow, which I am ready to admit that our +circumstances and situation will alone excuse. The eye of every native had +been fixed upon that noble flag, at all times a beautiful object, and to +them a novel one, as it waved over us in the heart of a desert. They had, +until that moment been particularly loquacious, but the sight of that flag +and the sound of our voices hushed the tumult, and while they were still +lost in astonishment, the boat's head was speedily turned, the sail was +sheeted home, both wind and current were in our favour, and we vanished +from them with a rapidity that surprised even ourselves, and which +precluded every hope of the most adventurous among them to keep up +with us. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + + +Character of the country--Damage of provisions--Adroitness of the natives +in catching fish--The skiff broken up--Stream from the North-East supposed +to be the Darling--Change of country in descending the river--Intercourse +with the natives--Prevalence of loathsome diseases among them--Apparent +populousness of the country--Junction of several small streams--The Rufus, +the Lindesay, &c.--Rainy and tempestuous weather--Curious appearance of +the banks--Troublesomeness of the natives--Inhospitable and desolate +aspect of the country--Condition of the men--Change in the geological +character of the country--The river passes through a valley among hills. + + +Arrived once more at the junction of the two rivers, and unmolested in our +occupations, we had leisure to examine it more closely. Not having as yet +given a name to our first discovery, when we re-entered its capacious +channel on this occasion, I laid it down as the Murray River, in +compliment to the distinguished officer, Sir George Murray, who then +presided over the colonial department, not only in compliance with the +known wishes of his Excellency General Darling, but also in accordance +with my own feelings as a soldier. + +The new river, whether the Darling or an additional discovery, meets its +more southern rival on a N. by E. course; the latter, running W.S.W. at +the confluence, the angle formed by the two rivers, is, therefore, so +small that both may he considered to preserve their proper course, and +neither can be said to be tributary to the other. At their junction, +the Murray spreads its waters over the broad and sandy shore, upon which +our boat grounded, while its more impetuous neighbour flows through the +deep but narrow channel it has worked out for itself, under the right +bank. The strength of their currents must have been nearly equal, since +there was as distinct a line between their respective waters, to a +considerable distance below the junction, as if a thin board alone +separated them. The one half the channel contained the turbid waters of +the northern stream, the other still preserved their original +transparency. + +INUNDATED AND ALLUVIAL COUNTRY. + +The banks of the Murray did not undergo any immediate change as we +proceeded. We noticed that the country had, at some time, been subject to +extensive inundation, and was, beyond doubt, of alluvial formation. We +passed the mouths of several large creeks that came from the north and +N.W., and the country in those directions seemed to be much intersected by +water-courses; while to the south it was extremely low. Having descended +several minor rapids, I greatly regretted that we had no barometer to +ascertain the actual dip of the interior. I computed, however, that we +were not more than from eighty to ninety feet above the level of the sea. +We found the channel of the Murray much encumbered with timber, and +noticed some banks of sand that were of unusual size, and equalled the +largest accumulations of it on the sea shore, both in extent and solidity. + +STATE OF PROVISIONS. + +We would gladly have fired into the flights of wild fowl that winged their +way over us, for we, about this time, began to feel the consequences of +the disaster that befell us in the Morumbidgee. The fresh water having got +mixed with the brine in the meat casks, the greater part of our salt +provisions had got spoiled, so that we were obliged to be extremely +economical in the expenditure of what remained, as we knew not to what +straits we might be driven. It will naturally be asked why we did not +procure fish? The answer is easy. The men had caught many in the +Morumbidgee, and on our first navigation of the Murray, but whether it was +that they had disagreed with them, or that their appetites were palled, or +that they were too fatigued after the labour of the day to set the lines, +they did not appear to care about them. The only fish we could take was +the common cod or perch; and, without sauce or butter, it is insipid +enough. We occasionally exchanged pieces of iron-hoop for two other kinds +of fish, the one a bream, the other a barbel, with the natives, and the +eagerness with which they met our advances to barter, is a strong proof of +their natural disposition towards this first step in civilization. + +DEXTERITY OF NATIVES IN FISHING. + +As they threw off all reserve when accompanying us as ambassadors, we had +frequent opportunities of observing their habits. The facility, for +instance, with which they procured fish was really surprising. They would +slip, feet foremost, into the water as they walked along the bank of the +river, as if they had accidentally done so, but, in reality, to avoid the +splash they would necessarily have made if they had plunged in head +foremost. As surely as they then disappeared under the surface of the +water, so surely would they re-appear with a fish writhing upon the point +of their short spears. The very otter scarcely exceeds them in power over +the finny race, and so true is the aim of these savages, even under water, +that all the fish we procured from them were pierced either close behind +the lateral fin, or in the very centre of the head, It is certain, from +their indifference to them, that the natives seldom eat fish when they can +get anything else. Indeed, they seemed more anxious to take the small +turtle, which, sunning themselves on the trunks or logs of trees over the +water, were, nevertheless, extremely on their guard. A gentle splash alone +indicated to us that any thing had dropped into the water, but the quick +eyes and ears of our guides immediately detected what had occasioned it, +and they seldom failed to take the poor little animal that had so vainly +trusted to its own watchfulness for security. It appeared that the natives +did not, from choice, frequent the Murray; it was evident, therefore, that +they had other and better means of subsistence away from it, and it struck +me, at the time, that the river we had just passed watered a better +country than any through which the Murray had been found to flow. + +BREAK UP THE SKIFF. + +We encamped rather earlier than usual upon the left bank of the river, +near a broad creek; for as the skiff had been a great drag upon us, I +determined on breaking it up, since there was no probability that we +should ever require the still, which alone remained in her. We, +consequently, burnt the former, to secure her nails and iron work, and I +set Clayton about cutting the copper of the latter into the shape of +crescents, in order to present them to the natives. Some large huts were +observed on the side of the creek, a little above the camp, the whole of +which faced the N.E. This arrangement had previously been noticed by us, +so that I was led to infer that the severest weather comes from the +opposite quarter in this part of the interior. I had not the least idea, +at the time, however, that we should, ere we reached the termination of +our journey, experience the effects of the S.W. winds. + +We must have fallen considerably during the day from the level of our +morning's position, for we passed down many reaches where the decline of +country gave an increased velocity to the current of the river. + +I had feared, not only in consequence of the unceremonious manner in +which we had left them, but, because I had, in some measure, rejected the +advances of their chiefs, that none of the natives would follow us, and I +regretted the circumstance on account of my men, as well as the trouble we +should necessarily have in conciliating the next tribe. We had not, +however, been long encamped, when seven blacks joined us. I think they +would have passed on if we had not called to them. As it was, they +remained with us but for a short time. We treated them very kindly, but +they were evidently under constraint, and were, no doubt, glad when they +found we did not object to their departing. + +NEW RIVER IDENTIFIED WITH THE DARLING. + +I have stated, that I felt satisfied in my own mind, that the beautiful +stream we had passed was no other than the river Darling of my former +journey. The bare assertion, however, is not sufficient to satisfy the +mind of the reader, upon a point of such importance, more especially when +it is considered how remarkable a change the Darling must have undergone, +if this were indeed a continuation of it. I am free to confess that it +required an effort to convince myself, but after due consideration, I see +no reason to alter the opinion I formed at a moment of peculiar +embarrassment. Yet it by no means follows that I shall convince others, +although I am myself convinced. The question is one of curious +speculation, and the consideration of it will lead us to an interesting +conjecture, as to the probable nature of the distant interior, between the +two points. It will be remembered that I was obliged to relinquish my +pursuit of the Darling, in east long. 144 degrees 48 minutes 30 seconds +in lat. 30 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds south. I place the junction of +the Murray and the new river, in long. 140 degrees 56 minutes east, and in +south lat. 34 degrees 3 minutes. I must remark, however, that the lunars I +took on this last occasion, were not satisfactory, and that there is, +probably, an error, though not a material one, in the calculation. Before +I measure the distance between the above points, or make any remarks on +the results of my own observations, I would impress the following facts +upon the reader's mind. + +I found and left the Darling in a complete state of exhaustion. As a river +it had ceased to flow; the only supply it received was from brine +springs, which, without imparting a current, rendered its waters saline +and useless, and lastly, the fish in it were different from those +inhabiting the other known rivers of the interior. It is true, I did not +procure a perfect specimen of one, but we satisfactorily ascertained that +they were different, inasmuch as they had large and strong scales, whereas +the fish in the western waters have smooth skins. On the other hand, the +waters of the new river were sweet, although turbid; it had a rapid +current in it; and its fish were of the ordinary kind. In the above +particulars, therefore, they differed much as they could well differ. Yet +there were some strong points of resemblance in the appearance of the +rivers themselves, which were more evident to me than I can hope to make +them to the reader. Both were shaded by trees of the same magnificent +dimensions; and the same kind of huts were erected on the banks of each, +inhabited by the same description, or race, of people, whose weapons, +whose implements, and whose nets corresponded in most respects. + +We will now cast our eyes over the chart: and see if the position of the +two rivers upon it, will at all bear out our conclusion that they are one +and the same; and whether the line that would join them is the one that +the Darling would naturally take, in reference to its previous +course.--We shall find that the two points under discussion, bear almost +N.E. and S.W. of each other respectively, the direct line in which the +Darling had been ascertained to flow, as far as it had been found +practicable to trace it. I have already remarked that the fracture of my +barometer prevented my ascertaining the height of the bed of the Darling +above the sea, during the first expedition. A similar accident caused me +equal disappointment on the second; because one of the most important +points upon which I was engaged was to ascertain the dip of the interior. +I believe I stated, in its proper place, that I did not think the Darling +could possibly be 200 feet above the sea, and as far as my observations +bear me out, I should estimate the bed of the Murray, at its junction with +the new river, to be within 100. It would appear that there is a distance +of 300 miles between the Murray River at this place, and the Darling; +a space amply sufficient for the intervention of a hilly country. No one +could have been more attentive to the features of the interior than I was; +nor could any one have dwelt upon their peculiarities with more earnest +attention. It were hazardous to build up any new theory, however ingenious +it may appear. The conclusions into which I have been led, are founded on +actual observation of the country through which I passed, and extend not +beyond my actual range of vision; unless my assuming that the decline of +the interior to the south has been satisfactorily established, be +considered premature. If not, the features of the country certainly +justify my deductions; and it will be found that they were still more +confirmed by subsequent observation.--That the Darling should have lost +its current in its upper branches, is not surprising, when the level +nature of the country into which it falls is taken into consideration; +neither does it surprise me that it should be stationary in one place, +and flowing in another; since, if, as in the present instance, there is a +great extent of country between the two points, which may perhaps be of +considerable elevation, the river may receive tributaries, whose waters +will of course follow the general decline of the country. I take it to be +so in the case before us; and am of opinion, that the lower branches of +the Darling are not at all dependent on its sources for a current, or for +a supply of water. I have somewhere observed that it appeared to me the +depressed interior over which I had already travelled, was of +comparatively recent formation. And, by whatever convulsion or change +so extensive a tract became exposed, I cannot but infer, that the Darling +is the main channel by which the last waters of the ocean were drained +off. The bottom of the estuary, for it cannot be called a valley, being +then left exposed, it consequently remains the natural and proper +reservoir for the streams from the eastward, or those falling easterly +from the westward, if any such remain to be discovered. + +From the junction of the Morumbidgee to the junction of the new river, the +Murray had held a W.N.W. course. From the last junction it changed its +direction to the S.W., and increased considerably in size. The country to +the south was certainly lower than that to the north; for, although both +banks had features common to each other, the flooded spaces were much +more extensive to our left than to our right. + +CHANGE OF COUNTRY. + +We started on the morning of the 24th, all the lighter from having got rid +of the skiff, and certainly freer to act in case the natives should evince +a hostile disposition towards us. As we proceeded down the river, the +appearances around us more and more plainly indicated a change of country. +Cypresses were observed in the distance, and the ground on which they +stood was higher than that near the stream; as if it had again acquired +its secondary banks. At length these heights approached the river so +nearly as to form a part of its banks, and to separate one alluvial flat +from another. Their summits were perfectly level; their soil was a red +sandy loam; and their productions, for the most part, salsolae and +misembrianthemum. From this it would appear that we had passed through a +second region, that must at some time have been under water, and that +still retained all the marks of a country partially subject to flood. + +INTRODUCED FROM TRIBE TO TRIBE. + +We had, as I have said, passed over this region, and were again hemmed in +by those sandy and sterile tracts upon which the beasts of the field could +obtain neither food nor water. We overtook the seven deputies some time +after we started, but soon lost sight of them again, as they cut off the +sweeps of the river, and shortened their journey as much as possible. +At 2 p.m. we found them with a tribe of their countrymen, about eighty in +number. We pulled in to the bank and remained with them for a short time, +and I now determined to convince the blacks who had preceded us, that I +had not been actuated by any other desire than that of showing to them +that we were not to be intimidated by numbers, when I refused to make them +any presents after their show of hostility. I now, therefore, gave them +several implements, sundry pieces of iron hoop, and an ornamental badge of +copper. When we left the tribe, we were regularly handed over to their +care. The seven men who had introduced us, went back at the same time that +we continued our journey, and two more belonging to the new tribe, went on +a-head to prepare the the neighbouring tribe to receive us; nor did we see +anything more of them during the day. + +We encamped on the left bank of the river, amidst a polygonum scrub, in +which we found a number of the crested pigeon. It was late before the +tents were pitched: as Fraser seldom assisted in that operation, but +strolled out with his gun after he had kindled a fire, so on this occasion +he wandered from the camp in search of novelty, and on his return, +informed me that there was a considerable ridge to the south of a plain +upon which he had been. + +I had myself walked out to the S.E., and on ascending a few feet above the +level of the camp, got into a scrub. I was walking quietly through it, +when I heard a rustling noise, and looking in the direction whence it +proceeded, I observed a small kangaroo approaching me. Having a stick in +my hand, and being aware that I was in one of their paths, I stood still +until the animal came close up to me, without apparently being aware of my +presence. I then gave it a blow an the side of the head, and made it reel +to one side, but the stick, being rotten, broke with the force of the +blow, and thus disappointed me of a good meal. + +During my absence from the camp, a flight of cockatoos, new to us, but +similar to one that Mr. Hume shot on the Darling, passed over the tents, +and I found M'Leay, with his usual anxiety, trying to get a shot at them. +They had, he told me, descended to water, but they had chosen a spot so +difficult of approach without discovery, that he had found it impossible +to get within shot of them. + +RIDGE TO THE SOUTH-EAST. + +There was a considerable rapid just below our position, which I examined +before dark. Not seeing any danger, I requested M'Leay to proceed down it +in the boat as soon as he had breakfasted, and to wait for me at the +bottom of it. As I wished to ascertain the nature and height of the +elevations which Fraser had magnified into something grand, Fraser and I +proceeded to the centre of a large plain, stretching from the left bank of +the river to the southward. It was bounded to the S.E. by a low scrub; +to the S. a thickly wooded ridge appeared to break the level of the +country. It extended from east to west for four or five miles, and then +gradually declined. At its termination, the country seemed to dip, and a +dense fog, as from an extensive sheet of water, enveloped the landscape. +The plain was crowded with cockatoos, that were making their morning's +repast on the berries of the salsolae and rhagodia, with which it was +covered. + +DISTANT RANGES SEEN. + +M'Leay had got safely down the rapid, so that as soon as I joined him, +we proceeded on our journey. We fell in with the tribe we had already +seen, but increased in numbers, and we had hardly left them, when we found +another tribe most anxiously awaiting our arrival. We stayed with the last +for some time, and exhausted our vocabulary, and exerted our ingenuity to +gain some information from them. I directed Hopkinson to pile up some +clay, to enquire if we were near any hills, when two or three of the +blacks caught the meaning, and pointed to the N.W. Mulholland climbed up a +tree in consequence of this, and reported to me that he saw lofty ranges +in the direction to which the blacks pointed; that there were two +apparently, the one stretching to the N.E., the other to the N.W. He +stated their distance to be about forty miles, and added that he thought +he could observe other ranges, through the gap, which, according to the +alignment of two sticks, that I placed according to Mulholland's +directions, bore S. 130 W. + +We had landed upon the right bank of the river, and there was a large +lagoon immediately behind us. The current in the river did not run so +strong as it had been. Its banks were much lower, and were generally +covered with reeds. The spaces subject to flood were broader than +heretofore, and the country for more than twenty miles was extremely +depressed. Our view from the highest ground near the camp was very +confined, since we were apparently in a hollow, and were unable to obtain +a second sight of the ranges we had noticed. + +PASS THREE CREEKS. + +Three creeks fell into the Murray hereabouts. One from the north, another +from the N.E., and the third from the south. The two first were almost +choked up with the trunks of trees, but the last had a clear channel. +Our tents stood on ground high above the reach of flood. The soil was +excellent, and the brushes behind us abounded with a new species of +melaleuca. + +The heat of the weather, at this time, was extremely oppressive, and the +thermometer was seldom under 100 degrees of Fahr. at noon. The wind, too, +we observed, seldom remained stationary for any length of time, but made +its regular changes every twenty-four hours. In the morning, it invariably +blew from the N.E., at noon it shifted to N.W., and as the sun set it flew +round to the eastward of south. A few dense clouds passed over us +occasionally, but no rain fell from them. + +DISEASES OF THE NATIVES. + +Our intercourse with the natives had now been constant. We had found the +interior more populous than we had any reason to expect; yet as we +advanced into it, the population appeared to increase. It was impossible +for us to judge of the disposition of the natives during the short +interviews we generally had with them, and our motions were so rapid that +we did not give them time to form any concerted plan of attack, had they +been inclined to attack us. They did not, however, show any disposition to +hostility, but, considering all things, were quiet and orderly, nor did +any instances of theft occur, or, at least, none fell under my notice. +The most loathsome of diseases prevailed throughout the tribes, nor were +the youngest infants exempt from them. Indeed, so young were some, whose +condition was truly disgusting, that I cannot but suppose they must have +been born in a state of disease; but I am uncertain whether it is fatal or +not in its results, though, most probably it hurries many to a premature +grave. How these diseases originated it is impossible to say. Certainly +not from the colony, since the midland tribes alone were infected. +Syphilis raged amongst them with fearful violence; many had lost their +noses, and all the glandular parts were considerably affected. I +distributed some Turner's cerate to the women, but left Fraser to +superintend its application. It could do no good, of course, but it +convinced the natives we intended well towards them, and, on that account, +it was politic to give it, setting aside any humane feeling. + +POPULOUS DISTRICT. + +The country through which we passed on the 28th, was extremely low, full +of lagoons, and thickly inhabited. No change took place in the river, +or in the nature and construction of its banks. We succeeded in getting a +view of the hills we had noticed when with the last tribe, and found that +they bore from us due north, N. 22 E., and S. 130 W. They looked bare and +perpendicular, and appeared to be about twenty miles from us. I am very +uncertain as to the character of these hills, but still think that they +must have been some of the faces of the bold cliffs that we had frequently +passed under. From the size and number of the huts, and from the great +breadth of the foot-paths, we were still further led to conclude that we +were passing through a very populous district. What the actual number of +inhabitants was it is impossible to say, but we seldom communicated with +fewer than 200 daily. They sent ambassadors forward regularly from one +tribe to another, in order to prepare for our approach, a custom that not +only saved us an infinity of time, but also great personal risk. Indeed, +I doubt very much whether we should ever have pushed so far down the +river, had we not been assisted by the natives themselves. I was +particularly careful not to do anything that would alarm them, or to +permit any liberty to be taken with their women. Our reserve in this +respect seemed to excite their surprise, for they asked sundry questions, +by signs and expressions, as to whether we had any women, and where they +were. The whole tribe generally assembled to receive us, and all, without +exception, were in a complete state of nudity, and really the loathsome +condition and hideous countenances of the women would, I should imagine, +have been a complete antidote to the sexual passion. It is to be observed, +that the women are very inferior in appearance to the men. The latter are, +generally speaking, a clean-limbed and powerful race, much stouter in the +bust than below, but withal, active, and, in some respects, intelligent; +but the women are poor, weak, and emaciated. This, perhaps, is owing to +their poverty and paucity of food, and to the treatment they receive at +the hands of the men; but the latter did not show any unkindness towards +them in our presence. + +Although I desired to avoid exciting their alarm, I still made a point of +showing them the effects of a gunshot, by firing at a kite, or any other +bird that happened to be near. My dexterity--for I did not trust Fraser, +who would, ten to one, have missed his mark--was generally exerted, as I +have said, against a kite or a crow; both of which birds generally +accompanied the blacks from place to place to pick up the remnants of +their meals. Yet, I was often surprised at the apparent indifference with +which the natives not only saw the effect of the shot, but heard the +report. I have purposely gone into the centre of a large assemblage and +fired at a bird that has fallen upon their very heads, without causing a +start or an exclamation, without exciting either their alarm or their +curiosity. + +Whence this callous feeling proceeded, whether from strength of nerve, +or because they had been informed by our forerunners that we should show +off before them, I know not, but I certainly expected a very different +effect from that which my firing generally produced, although I +occasionally succeeded in scattering them pretty well. + +JUNCTION OF THE RUFUS. + +About 11 a.m., we arrived at the junction of a small river with the +Murray, at which a tribe, about 250 in number, had assembled to greet us. +We landed, therefore, for the double purpose of distributing presents, and +of examining the junction, which, coming from the north, of course, fell +into the Murray upon its right bank. Its waters were so extremely muddy, +and its current so rapid, that it must have been swollen by some late +rains. Perhaps, it had its sources in the hills we had seen; be that as it +may, it completely discoloured the waters of the Murray. + +We made it a point never to distribute any presents among the natives +until we had made them all sit, or stand, in a row. Sometimes this was a +troublesome task, but we generally succeeded in gaining our point; with a +little exertion of patience. M'Leay was a famous hand at ordering the +ranks, and would, I am sure, have made a capital drill-sergeant, not less +on account of his temper than of his perseverance. I called the little +tributary I have noticed, the Rufus, in honour of my friend M'Leay's red +head, and I have no doubt, he will understand the feeling that induced me +to give it such a name. + +GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATION. + +Not many miles below the Rufus, we passed under a lofty cliff upon the +same side with it. It is the first elevation of any consequence that +occurs below the Darling, and not only on that account, but also on +account of the numerous substances of which it is composed, and the +singular formation that is near requires to be particularly +noticed. [See Appendix.] The examination was a task of considerable +danger, and both Fraser and myself had well nigh been buried under a mass +of the cliff that became suddenly detached, and, breaking into thousands +of pieces, went hissing and cracking into the river. + +THUNDER STORMS. + +The weather about this time was extremely oppressive and close. Thunder +clouds darkened the sky, but no rain fell. The thermometer was seldom +below 104 at noon, and its range was very trifling. The wind shifted +several times during the twenty-four hours; but these changes had no +effect on the thermometer. It was evident, however, as the sun set on the +evening of the 26th, that the clouds from which thunder had for the last +four or five days disturbed the silence of nature around us, would not +long support their own weight. A little before midnight, it commenced +raining, and both wind and rain continued to increase in violence until +about seven in the morning of the 27th; when the weather moderated. + +Two or three blacks had accompanied us from the last tribe, and had lain +down near the fire. As the storm increased, however, they got up, and +swimming across the river, left us to ourselves. This was a very unusual +thing, nor can I satisfy myself as to their object, unless it was to get +into shelter, for these people though they wander naked over the country, +and are daily in the water, feel the cold and rain very acutely. + +Observing the clouds collecting for so many days, I indulged hopes that we +were near high lands, perhaps mountains; but from the loftiest spots we +could see nothing but a level and dark horizon. Anxious to gain as correct +a knowledge of the country as possible we had, in the course of the day, +ascended a sandy ridge that was about a mile from the river. The view from +the summit of this ridge promised to be more extensive than any we had of +late been enabled to obtain; and as far as actual observation went, we +were not disappointed, although in every other particular, the landscape +was one of the most unpromising description. To the S. and S.E., the +country might be said to stretch away in one unbroken plain, for it was so +generally covered with wood that every inequality was hidden from our +observation. To the S.W. the river line was marked out by a succession of +red cliffs, similar to those we had already passed. To the north, the +interior was evidently depressed; it was overgrown with a low scrub, and +seemed to be barren in the extreme. The elevations upon which we stood +were similar to the sand-hills near the coast, and had not a blade of +grass upon them. Yet, notwithstanding the sterility of the soil, the +large white amarillis which grew in such profusion on the alluvial plains +of the Macquarie, was also abundant here. But it had lost its dazzling +whiteness, and had assumed a sickly yellow colour and its very appearance +indicated that it was not in a congenial soil. + +LINDESAY RIVER. + +We passed two very considerable junctions, the one coming from the S.E., +the other from the north. Both had currents in them, but the former was +running much stronger than the latter. It falls into the Murray, almost +opposite to the elevations I have been describing, and, if a judgment +can be hazarded from its appearance at its embouchure, it must, in its +higher branches, be a stream of considerable magnitude. Under this +impression, I have called it the Lindesay, as a tribute of respect to my +commanding officer, Colonel Patrick Lindesay of the 39th regt. I place it +in east long. 140 degrees 29 minutes, and in lat. 33 degrees 58 minutes +south. Mr. Hume is of opinion that this is the most southerly of the +rivers crossed by him and Mr. Hovel in 1823; but, as I have already +remarked, I apprehend that all the rivers those gentlemen crossed, had +united in one main stream above the junction of the Morumbidgee, and I +think it much more probable that this is a new river, and that it rises +to the westward of Port Phillips, rather than in the S.E. angle of the +coast. + +NATIVES BECOME TROUBLESOME. + +We found the blacks who had deserted us with a tribe at the junction, but +it was weak in point of numbers; as were also two other tribes or hordes +to whom we were introduced in rapid succession. Taken collectively, they +could not have amounted to 230 men, women, and children. The last of these +hordes was exceedingly troublesome, and I really thought we should have +been obliged to quarrel with them. Whether it was that we were getting +impatient, or that our tempers were soured, I know not, but even M'Leay, +whose partiality towards the natives was excessive at the commencement of +our journey, now became weary of such constant communication as we had +kept up with them. Their sameness of appearance, the disgusting diseases +that raged among them, their abominable filth, the manner in which they +pulled us about, and the impossibility of making them understand us, or +of obtaining any information from them,--for if we could have succeeded +in this point, we should have gladly borne every inconvenience,--all +combined to estrange us from these people and to make their presence +disagreeable. Yet there was an absolute necessity to keep up the chain of +communication, to ensure our own safety, setting aside every other +consideration; but as I had been fortunate in my intercourse with the +natives during the first expedition, so I hoped the present journey would +terminate without the occurrence of any fatal collision between us. The +natives, it is true, were generally quiet; but they crowded round us +frequently without any regard to our remonstrances, laying hold of the +boat to prevent our going away, and I sometimes thought that had any of +them been sufficiently bold to set the example, many of the tribes would +have attempted our capture. Indeed, in several instances, we were obliged +to resort to blows ere we could disengage ourselves from the crowds around +us, and whenever this occurred, it called forth the most sullen and +ferocious scowl--such, probably, as would be the forerunner of hostility, +and would preclude every hope of mercy at their hands. With each new tribe +we were, in some measure, obliged to submit to an examination, and to be +pulled about, and fingered all over. They generally measured our hands and +feet with their own, counted our fingers, felt our faces, and besmeared +our shirts all over with grease and dirt. This was no very agreeable +ceremony, and a repetition of it was quite revolting, more especially when +we had to meet the grins or frowns of the many with firmness and +composure. + +TEMPESTUOUS WEATHER. + +The weather had been tempestuous and rainy, for three or four successive +days: on the 28th it cleared up a little. Under any circumstances, +however, we could not have delayed our journey. We had not proceeded very +far when it again commenced to rain and to blow heavily from the N.W. +The river trended to the South. We passed down several rapids, and +observed the marks of recent flood on the trees, to the height of seven +feet. The alluvial flats did not appear to have been covered, or to be +subject to overflow. The timber upon them was not of a kind that is found +on flooded lands, but wherever reeds prevailed the flooded or blue gum +stretched its long white branches over them. The country to the westward +was low and bushy. + +SINGULAR FORMATION OF THE BANKS. + +The left bank of the Murray was extremely lofty, and occasionally rose to +100 feet perpendicularly from the water. It is really difficult to +describe the appearance of the banks at this place; so singular were they +in character, and so varied in form. Here they had the most beautiful +columnar regularity, with capitals somewhat resembling the Corinthian +order in configuration; there they showed like falls of muddy water that +had suddenly been petrified; and in another place they resembled the +time-worn battlements of a feudal castle. It will naturally be asked, of +what could these cliffs have been composed to assume so many different +forms? and what could have operated to produce such unusual appearances? +The truth is, they were composed almost wholly of clay and sand. Wherever +the latter had accumulated, or predominated, the gradual working of +water had washed it away, and left the more compact body, in some places, +so delicately hollowed out, that it seemed rather the work of art than of +nature. This singular formation rested on a coarse grit, that showed +itself in slabs. + +From the frequent occurrence of rapids I should imagine that we had fallen +considerably, but there was no visible decline of country. The river swept +along, in broad and noble reaches, at the base of the cliffs. Vast +accumulations of sand were in its bed, a satisfactory proof of the sandy +character of the distant interior, if other proof were wanting. + +We did not see so many natives on the 28th as we had been in the habit of +seeing; perhaps in consequence of the boisterous weather. A small tribe of +about sixty had collected to receive us, but we passed on without taking +any notice of them, Nevertheless they deputed two of their men to follow +us, who overtook us just as we stopped for the purpose of pitching our +tents before the clouds should burst, that just then bore the most +threatening appearance. The blacks seemed to be perfectly aware what kind +of a night we should have, and busied themselves preparing a hut and +making a large fire. + +The evening proved extremely dark, and towards midnight it blew and rained +fiercely. Towards morning the wind moderated, and the rain ceased. Still, +the sky was overcast, and the clouds were passing rapidly over us. The +wind had, however, changed some points, and from the N.W. had veered round +to the S.S.W.; and the day eventually turned out cool and pleasant. + +LARGE TRIBE OF NATIVES--THEIR INDIFFERENCE TO FIRE-ARMS. + +We fell in with a large tribe of natives, amounting in all to 270. They +were extremely quiet, and kept away from the boat; in consequence of which +I distributed a great many presents among them. This tribe was almost the +only ons that evinced any eagerness to see us. The lame had managed to +hobble along, and the blind were equally anxious to touch us. There were +two or three old men stretched upon the bank, from whom the last sigh +seemed about to depart; yet these poor creatures evinced an anxiety to see +us, and to listen to a description of our appearance, although it seemed +doubtful whether they would be alive twenty-four hours after we left them. +An old woman, a picture of whom would disgust my readers, made several +attempts to embrace me. I managed, however, to avoid her, and at length +got rid of her by handing her over to Fraser, who was no wise particular +as to the object of his attention. This tribe must have been one of the +most numerous on the banks of the Murray, since we fell in with detached +families for many miles below the place where we had parted from the main +body. + +I have omitted to mention that, while among them, I fired at a kite and +killed it; yet, though close to me, the blacks did not start or evince the +least surprise. It really is difficult to account for such firmness of +nerve or self-command. It is not so much a matter of surprise that they +were indifferent to its effects, for probably they knew them not, but it +is certainly odd that they should not have been startled by the report. + +The river inclined very much to the southward for some miles below our +last camp; at length it struck against some elevations that turned it more +to the westward. Before we terminated our day's pull it again changed its +direction to the eastward of south. The right bank became lofty, and the +left proportionably depressed. + +REFLECTIONS ON THE PROGRESS OF THE EXPEDITION. + +In consequence of the boisterous weather we had had, we were uncertain as +to our precise situation, even in point of latitude. But I was perfectly +aware that we were considerably to the south of the head of St. Vincent's +Gulf. I began, therefore, to contemplate with some confidence a speedy +termination to our wanderings, or, at least, that we should soon reach the +extreme point to which we could advance. The sun was at this time out of +my reach, since the sextant would not measure double the altitude. +Observations of the stars were, in like manner, uncertain, in consequence +of the boisterous weather we had had, and the unavoidable agitation of the +quicksilver. My last observation of Antares placed us in latitude +34 degrees 4 minutes; so that we were still 115 miles from the coast. + +We had now been twenty-two days upon the river, and it was uncertain how +long we should be in compassing the distance we had still to run. +Considering all things, we had, as yet, been extremely fortunate; and I +hoped that we should terminate our journey without the occurrence of any +fatal accident. Had the country corresponded with the noble stream that +traversed it, we should have been proportionably elated, but it was +impossible to conceal from ourselves its inhospitable and unprofitable +character, as far as we had, as yet, penetrated. If we except the partial +and alluvial flats on the immediate borders, and in the neighbourhood of +its tributaries and creeks, the Murray might be said to flow through a +barren and sandy interior. The appearance of the country through which we +passed on the 29th, was far from being such as to encourage us with the +hopes of any change for the better. The river was enclosed, on either +side, by the same kind of banks that have already been described; and it +almost appeared as if the plain had been rent asunder to allow of a +passage for its waters. The view of the distant interior was +unsatisfactory. It was, for the most part, covered with brush, but, at +length, cypresses again made their appearance, although at a considerable +distance from us. + +The river continued to flow to the southward, a circumstance that gave me +much satisfaction, for I now began to feel some anxiety about the men. +They had borne their fatigues and trials so cheerfully, and had behaved so +well, that I could not but regret the scanty provision that remained for +them. The salt meat being spoiled, it had fallen to the share of the dogs, +so that we had little else than flour to eat. Fish no one would touch, and +of wild fowl there were none to be seen. The men complained of sore eyes, +from the perspiration constantly running into them, and it was obvious to +me that they were much reduced. It will be borne in mind, that we were now +performing the earliest part of our task, and were going down with the +stream. I was sure that on our return, (For I had no hopes of meeting any +vessel on the coast,) we should have to make every day's journey good +against the current; and, if the men were now beginning to sink, it might +well be doubted whether their strength would hold out. Both M'Leay and +myself, therefore, encouraged any cheerfulness that occasionally broke out +among them, and Frazer enlivened them by sundry tunes that he whistled +whilst employed in skinning birds. I am sure, no galley-slave ever took to +his oar with more reluctance than poor Frazer. He was indefatigable in +most things, but he could not endure the oar. + +NATIVES BECOME UNRULY. + +We did not fall in with any natives on the 30th, neither did we see those +who had preceded us from the last tribe. On the 31st, to my mortification, +the river held so much to the northward, that we undid almost all our +southing. What with its regular turns, and its extensive sweeps, the +Murray covers treble the ground, at a moderate computation, that it would +occupy in a direct course; and we had a practical instance of the truth of +this in the course of the afternoon, when we found our friends ready to +introduce us to a large assemblage of natives. On asking them how they had +passed us, they pointed directly east to the spot at which we had parted. +By crossing from one angle of the river to the other, they had performed +in little more than half a day, a journey which it had taken us two long +days to accomplish. After our usual distribution of presents, we pushed +away from the bank; though not without same difficulty, in consequence of +the obstinacy of the natives in wishing to detain us; and I was +exceedingly vexed to find, while we were yet in sight of them, that we had +proceeded down a shallow channel on one side of an island instead of the +further and deeper one; so that the boat ultimately grounded. A crowd of +the blacks rushed into the water, and surrounded us on every side. Some +came to assist us, others, under a pretence of assisting, pulled against +us, and I was at length obliged to repel them by threats. A good many of +them were very much disposed to annoy us, and, after the boat was in deep +water, some of them became quite infuriated, because we would not return. +Had we been within distance, they would assuredly have hurled their spears +at us. Thirteen of them followed us to our resting place. They kept rather +apart from us, and kindled their fire in a little hollow about fifty paces +to our right; nor did they venture to approach the tents unless we called +to them, so that by their quiet and unobtrusive conduct they made up in +some measure for the unruly proceedings of others of their tribe. + +We had now arrived at a point at which I hoped to gain some information +from the natives, respecting the sea. It was to no purpose, however, that +I questioned these stupid people. They understood perfectly, by my +pointing to the sky, and by other signs, that I was inquiring about large +waters, but they could not, or would not, give any information on the +subject. + +CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY. + +As we proceeded down the river, its current became weaker, and its channel +somewhat deeper. Our attention was called to a remarkable change in the +geology of the country, as well as to an apparent alteration in the +natural productions. The cliffs of sand and clay ceased, and were +succeeded by a fossil formation of the most singular description. At +first, it did not exceed a foot in height above the water, but it +gradually rose, like an inclined plane, and resembled in colour, and in +appearance, the skulls of men piled one upon the other. The constant +rippling of the water against the rock had washed out the softer parts, +and made hollows and cavities, that gave the whole formation the precise +appearance of a catacomb. On examination, we discovered it to be a compact +bed of shells, composed of a common description of marine shell from two +to three inches in length, apparently a species of turritella. + +BANKS OF PETRIFIED SHELLS. + +At about nine miles from the commencement of this formation, it rose to +the height of more than 150 feet; the country became undulating, and a +partial change took place in its vegetation. We stopped at an early hour, +to examine some cliffs, which rising perpendicularly from the water, were +different in character and substance from any we had as yet seen. They +approached a dirty yellow-ochre in colour, that became brighter in hue as +it rose, and, instead of being perforated, were compact and hard. +The waters of the river had, however, made horizontal lines upon their +fronts, which distinctly marked the rise and fall of the river, as the +strength or depth of the grooves distinctly indicated the levels it +generally kept. It did not appear from these lines, that the floods ever +rose more than four feet above the then level of the stream, or that they +continued for any length of time. On breaking off pieces of the rock, we +ascertained that it was composed of one solid mass of sea-shells, of +various kinds, of which the species first mentioned formed the lowest +part. + +It rained a good deal during the night, but the morning turned out +remarkably fine. The day was pleasant, for however inconvenient in some +respects the frequent showers had been, they had cooled the air, and +consequently prevented our feeling the heat so much as we should otherwise +have done, in the close and narrow glen we had now entered. + +Among the natives who followed us from the last tribe, there was an old +man, who took an uncommon fancy or attachment to Hopkinson, and who +promised, when we separated, to join us again in the course of the day. + +FACE OF THE COUNTRY. + +As we proceeded down the river we found that it was confined in a glen, +whose extreme breadth was not more than half-a-mile. The hills that rose +on either side of it were of pretty equal height. The alluvial flats were +extremely small, and the boldest cliffs separated them from each other. +The flats were lightly wooded, and were for the most part covered with +reeds or polygonum. They were not much elevated above the waters of the +river, and had every appearance of being frequently inundated. At noon we +pulled up to dine, upon the left bank, under some hills, which were from +200 to 250 feet in height. While the men were preparing our tea, +(for we had only that to boil,) M'Leay and I ascended the hills. The brush +was so thick upon them, that we could not obtain a view of the distant +interior. Their summits were covered with oyster-shells, in such abundance +as entirely to preclude the idea of their having been brought to such a +position by the natives. They were in every stage of petrification. + +In the course of the afternoon the old man joined us, and got into the +boat. As far as we could understand from his signs, we were at no great +distance from some remarkable change or other. The river had been making +to the N.W., from the commencement of the fossil formation, and it +appeared as if it was inclined to keep that direction. The old man pointed +to the N.W., and then placed his hand on the side of his head to indicate, +as I understood him, that we should sleep to the N.W. of where we then +were; but his second motion was not so intelligible, for he pointed due +south, as if to indicate that such would be our future course; and he +concluded his information, such as it was, by describing the roaring of +the sea, and the height of the waves. It was evident this old man had been +upon the coast, and we were therefore highly delighted at the prospect +thus held out to us of reaching it. + +REMARKABLE CLIFFS. + +A little below the hills under which we had stopped, the country again +assumed a level. A line of cliffs, of from two to three hundred feet in +height, flanked the river, first on one side and then on the other, +varying in length from a quarter of a mile to a mile. They rose +perpendicularly from the water, and were of a bright yellow colour, +rendered still more vivid occasionally by the sun shining full upon them. +The summits of these cliffs were as even as if they had been built by an +architect; and from their very edge, the country back from the stream was +of an uniform level, and was partly plain, and partly clothed by brush. +The soil upon this plateau, or table land, was sandy, and it was as barren +and unproductive as the worst of the country we had passed through. On the +other hand, the alluvial flats on the river increased in size, and were +less subject to flood; and the river lost much of its sandy bed, and its +current was greatly diminished in strength. + +NATIVE CHARACTER. + +It blew so fresh, during the greater part of the day, from the westward, +that we had great difficulty in pulling against the breeze. The determined +N.W. course the river kept, made me doubt the correctness of the story of +the little old black; yet there was an openness of manner about him, and a +clearness of description, that did not appear like fabrication. He pointed +to the S.S.W. when he left us, as the direction in which he would again +join us, thus confirming, without any apparent intention, what he had +stated with regard to the southerly course the river was about to take. +Among the natives who were with him, there was another man of very +different manners and appearance. Our friend was small in stature, had +piercing grey eyes, and was as quick as lightning in his movements The +other was tall, and grey headed; anxious, yet unobtrusive; and confident, +without the least mixture of boldness. The study of the human character on +many occasions similar to this, during our intercourse with these people, +rude and uncivilized as they were, was not only pleasing, but instructive. +We found that the individuals of a tribe partook of one general character, +and that the whole of the tribe were either decidedly quiet, or as +decidedly disorderly. The whole of the blacks left us when we started, +but we had not gone very far, when the individual I have described brought +his family, consisting of about fifteen persons. We were going down a part +of the river in which there was a very slight fall. The natives were +posted under some blue-gum trees, upon the right bank, and there was a +broad shoal of sand immediately to our left. They walked over to this +shoal, to receive some little presents, but did not follow when we +continued our journey. + +TAKE BEARINGS. + +During the whole of the day the river ran to the N.W. We stopped for the +night under some cliffs, similar to those we had already passed, but +somewhat higher. From their summit, mountains were visible to the N.W., +but at a great distance from us. I doubted not that they were at the head +of the southern gulfs; or of one of them, at all events. Our observations +placed us in 34 degrees 08 minutes south of lat., and in long. 139 degrees +41 minutes 15 seconds; we were consequently nearly seventy miles from +Spencer's Gulf, in a direct line, and I should have given that as the +distance the hills appeared to be from us. They bore as follows:-- + + Lofty round mountain, S. 127 degrees W. + Mountain scarcely visible, S. 128 degrees W. + Northern extremity of a broken range, S. 102 degrees W. + Southern extremity scarcely visible, S. 58 degrees W. + +The country between the river and these ranges appeared to be very low, +and darkly wooded: that to the N.E. was more open. The summit of the cliff +did not form any table-land, but it dipped almost immediately to the +westward, and the country, although, as I have already remarked, it was +depressed, and undulated. + +I walked to some distance from the river, across a valley, and started +several kangaroos; but I was quite alone, and could not, therefore, secure +one of them. Had the dogs been near, we should have had a fine feast. The +soil of the interior still continued sandy, but there was a kind of short +grass mixed with the salsolaceous plants upon it, that indicated, as I +thought, a change for the better in the vegetation; and the circumstance +of there being kangaroos in the valleys to the westward was also a +favourable sign. + +FEAST ON A TORTOISE. + +Beneath the cliffs hereabouts, the river was extremely broad and deep. +My servant thought it a good place for fishing and accordingly set a +night-line, one end of which he fastened to the bough of a tree. During +the night, being on guard, he saw a small tortoise floating on the water, +so near that he struck it a violent blow with a large stick, upon which it +dived: to his surprise, however, in the morning, he found that it had +taken the bait, and was fast to the line. On examining it, the shell +proved to be cracked, so that the blow must have been a severe one. It was +the largest we had ever seen, and made an excellent dish. The flesh was +beautifully white, nor could anything, especially under our circumstances, +have been more tempting than it was when cooked; yet M'Leay would not +partake of it. + +The prevailing wind was, at this time, from the S.W. It blew heavily all +day, but moderated towards the evening + +I was very anxious, at starting on the 3rd, as to the course the river +would take, since it would prove whether the little old man had played us +false or not. From the cliffs under which we had slept, it held a direct +N.W. course for two or three miles. It then turned suddenly to the S.E., +and gradually came round to E.N.E., so that after two hours pulling, we +found ourselves just opposite to the spot from which we had started, the +neck of land that separated the channels not being more than 200 yards +across. I have before noticed a bend similar to this, which the Murray +makes, a little above the junction of the supposed Darling with it. + +CHART OF THE RIVER. + +It may appear strange to some of my readers, that I should have laid down +the windings of the river so minutely. It may therefore be necessary for +me to state that every bend of it was laid down by compass, and that the +bearings of the angles as they opened were regularly marked by me, so that +not a single winding or curve of the Murray is omitted in the large chart. +The length of some of the reaches may be erroneous, but their direction is +strictly correct. I always had a sheet of paper and the compass before me, +and not only marked down the river line, but also the description of +country nearest; its most minute changes, its cliffs, its flats, the kind +of country back from it, its lagoons, the places at which the tribes +assembled, its junctions, tributaries and creeks, together with our +several positions, were all regularly noted, so that on our return up the +river we had no difficulty in ascertaining upon what part of it we were, +by a reference to the chart; and it proved of infinite service to us, +since we were enabled to judge of our distance from our several camps, as +we gained them day by day with the current against us; and we should often +have stopped short of them, weary and exhausted, had we not known that two +or three reaches mere would terminate our labour for the day. + +REMARKABLE CLIFFS. + +From the spot last spoken of, the river held on a due south course for the +remainder of the day; and at the same time changed its character. It lost +its sandy bed and its current together, and became deep, still, and +turbid, with a muddy bottom. It increased considerably in breadth, and +stretched away before us in magnificent reaches of from three to six miles +in length. The cliffs under which we passed towered above us, like +maritime cliffs, and the water dashed against their base like the waves of +the sea. They became brighter and brighter in colour, looking like dead +gold in the sun's rays; and formed an unbroken wall of a mile or two in +length. The natives on their summits showed as small as crows; and the +cockatoos, the eagles, and other birds, were as specks above us; the +former made the valley reverberate with their harsh and discordant notes. +The reader may form some idea of the height of these cliffs, when informed +that the king of the feathered race made them his sanctuary. They were +continuous on both sides of the river, but retired, more or less, from it, +according to the extent of the alluvial flats. The river held a serpentine +course down the valley through which it passed, striking the precipices +alternately on each side. + +The soil on the flats was better, and less mixed with sand than it had +been, but the flats were generally covered with reeds, though certainly +not wholly subject to flood at any time. The polygonum still prevailed +upon them in places, and the blue-gum tree alone occupied their outskirts. +From the several elevations we ascended, the country to the N.W. appeared +undulating and well wooded; that to the eastward, seemed to be brushy and +low. Certainly there was a great difference in the country, both to the +eastward and to the westward. We had frequent views of the mountains we +had seen, or, I should have said, of a continuation of them. They bore +nearly west from us at a very great distance all day. + +We fell in with several tribes, but did not see our old friend, although, +from the inquiries we made, it was evident he was well known among them. +It would disgust my readers were I to describe the miserable state of +disease and infirmity to which these tribes were reduced. Leprosy of the +most loathsome description, the most violent cutaneous eruptions, and +glandular affections, absolutely raged through the whole of them; yet we +could not escape from the persecuting examination of our persons that +curiosity prompted them in some measure to insist upon. + +REJOINED BY OUR OLD NATIVE GUIDE. + +The old man, whose information had proved strictly correct, joined us +again on the 4th, and his joy at being received into the boat was +unbounded, as well as the pleasure he expressed at again meeting +Hopkinson. He had been on a long journey, it would appear, for he had not +then reached his tribe. As we approached their haunt, he landed and +preceded us to collect them. We were, of course, more than usually liberal +to so old a friend, and we were really sorry to part with him. + +Soon after leaving his tribe, which occupied the left bank of the river, +and was very weak in point of numbers, we fell in with a very strong tribe +upon the right bank. They numbered 211 in all. We lay off the bank, in +order to escape their importunities; a measure that by no means satisfied +them. The women appeared to be very prolific; but, as a race, these people +are not to be compared with the natives of the mountains, or of the upper +branches of the Murray. + +We passed some beautiful scenery in the course of the day. The river +preserved a direct southerly course, and could not in any place have been +less than 400 yards in breadth. The cliffs still continued, and varied +perpetually in form; at one time presenting a perpendicular wall to the +view, at others, they overhung the stream, in huge fragments. All were +composed of a mass of shells of various kinds; a fact which will call for +further observation and remark. + +DELAYED BY STRONG WINDS. + +Many circumstances at this time tended to confirm our hopes that the sea +could not be very far from us, or that we should not be long in gaining +it. Some sea-gulls flew over our heads, at which Fraser was about to +shoot, had I not prevented him, for I hailed them as the messengers of +glad tidings, and thought they ill deserved such a fate. It blew very hard +from the S.W., during the whole of the day, and we found it extremely +laborious pulling against the heavy and short sea that came rolling up the +broad and open reaches of the Murray at this place. + +Four of the blacks, from the last tribe, followed us, and slept at the +fires; but they were suspicious and timid, and appeared to be very glad +when morning dawned. Our fires were always so much larger than those made +by themselves, that, they fancied, perhaps, we were going to roast them. +Our dogs, likewise, gave them great uneasiness; for although so fond of +the native brute, they feared ours, from their size. We generally tied +them to the boat, therefore, to prevent a recurrence of theft, so that +they were not altogether useless. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + + +Improvement in the aspect of the country--Increase of the river--Strong +westerly gales--Chronometer broken--A healthier tribe of natives-- +Termination of the Murray in a large lake--Its extent and environs-- +Passage across it--Hostile appearance of the natives--Beautiful scenery +--Channel from the lake to the sea at Encounter Bay--Reach the beach-- +Large flocks of water fowl--Curious refraction--State of provisions-- +Embarrassing situation--Inspection of the channel to the ocean--Weak +condition of the men--Difficulties of the return. + +DELIGHTFUL COUNTRY. + +It now appeared that the Murray had taken a permanent southerly course; +indeed, it might strictly be said that it ran away to the south. As we +proceeded down it, the valley expanded to the width of two miles; the +alluvial flats became proportionably larger; and a small lake generally +occupied their centre. They were extensively covered with reeds and grass, +for which reason, notwithstanding that they were little elevated above the +level of the stream, I do not think they are subject to overflow. Parts of +them may be laid under water, but certainly not the whole. The rains at +the head of the Murray, and its tributaries, must be unusually severe to +prolong their effects to this distant region, and the flats bordering it +appear, by successive depositions, to have only just gained a height above +the further influence of the floods. Should this prove to be the case, the +valley may be decidedly laid down as a most desirable spot, whether we +regard the richness of its soil, its rock formation, its locality, or the +extreme facility of water communication along it. It must not, however, be +forgotten or concealed, that the summits of the cliffs by which the valley +is enclosed, have not a corresponding soil. On the contrary, many of the +productions common to the plains of the interior still existed upon them, +and they were decidedly barren; but as we measured the reaches of the +river, the cliffs ceased, and gave place to undulating hills, that were +very different in appearance from the country we had previously noted +down. It would have been impossible for the most tasteful individual to +have laid out pleasure ground to more advantage, than Nature had done in +planting and disposing the various groups of trees along the spine, and +upon the sides of the elevations that confined the river, and bounded the +low ground that intervened between it and their base. Still, however, the +soil upon these elevations was sandy, and coarse, but the large oat-grass +was abundant upon them, which yielded pasture at least as good as that in +the broken country between Underaliga and Morumbidgee. + +We had now gained a distance of at least sixty miles from that angle of +the Murray at which it reaches its extreme west. The general aspect of the +country to our right was beautiful, and several valleys branched away into +the interior upon that side which had a most promising appearance, and +seemed to abound with kangaroos, as the traces of them were numerous, and +the dogs succeeded in killing one, which, to our great mortification, we +could not find. + +While, however, the country to the westward had so much to recommend it, +the hills to our left became extremely bare. It was evident that the right +was the sheltered side of the valley. The few trees on the opposite side +bent over to the N.E., as if under the influence of some prevailing wind. + +ADVERSE GALES. + +We experienced at this time a succession of gales from the S.W., against +which we, on several occasions, found it useless to contend: the waves on +the river being heavy and short; and the boat, driving her prow into them, +sent the spray over us and soon wet us through. Indeed, it is difficult +for the reader to imagine the heavy swell that rolled up the river, which +had increased in breadth to the third of a mile, and in the length of its +reaches to eight or ten. I was satisfied that we were not only navigating +this river at a particularly stormy, perhaps THE stormy, season; but also, +that the influence of the S.W. wind is felt even as far in the interior as +to the supposed Darling; in consequence of the uniform build of the huts, +and the circumstance of their not only facing the N.E., but also being +almost invariably erected under the lee of some bush. + +The weather, under the influence of the wind we experienced, was cool and +pleasant, although the thermometer stood at a medium height of 86 degrees; +but we found it very distressing to pull against the heavy breezes that +swept up the valley, and bent the reeds so as almost to make them kiss the +stream. + +We communicated on the 6th and 7th with several large tribes of natives, +whose manners were on the whole quiet and inoffensive. They distinctly +informed us, that we were fast approaching the sea, and, from what I could +understand, we were nearer to it than the coast line of Encounter Bay made +us. We had placed sticks to ascertain if there was any rise or fall of +tide, but the troubled state of the river prevented our experiments from +being satisfactory. By selecting a place, however, that was sheltered from +the effects of the wind, we ascertained that there was an apparent rise +of about eight inches. + +OBLIGED TO TAKE REPOSE. + +It blew a heavy gale during the whole of the 7th; and we laboured in vain +at the oar. The gusts that swept the bosom of the water, and the swell +they caused, turned the boat from her course, and prevented us from making +an inch of way. The men were quite exhausted, and, as they had conducted +themselves so well, and had been so patient, I felt myself obliged to +grant them every indulgence consistent with our safety. However precarious +our situation, it would have been vain, with our exhausted strength, to +have contended against the elements. We, therefore, pulled in to the left +bank of the river, and pitched our tents on a little rising ground beyond +the reeds that lined it. + +CHRONOMETER BROKEN. + +I had been suffering very much front tooth-ache for the last three or four +days, and this day felt the most violent pain from the wind. I was not, +therefore, sorry to get under even the poor shelter our tents afforded. +M'Leay, observing that I was in considerable pain, undertook to wind up +the chronometer; but, not understanding or knowing the instrument, he +unfortunately broke the spring. I shall not forget the anxiety he +expressed, and the regret he felt on the occasion; nor do I think M'Leay +recovered the shock this unlucky accident gave him for two or three days, +or until the novelty of other scenes drove it from his recollection. + +We landed close to the haunt of a small tribe of natives, who came to us +with the most perfect confidence, and assisted the men in their +occupations. They were cleaner and more healthy than any tribe we had +seen; and were extremely cheerful, although reserved in some respects. +As a mark of more than usual cleanliness, the women had mats of oval +shape, upon which they sat, made, apparently, of rushes. There was a +young girl among them of a most cheerful disposition. She was about +eighteen, was well made, and really pretty. This girl was married to an +elderly man who had broken his leg, which having united in a bent shape, +the limb was almost useless. I really believe the girl thought we could +cure her husband, from her importunate manner to us. I regretted that I +could do nothing for the man, but to show that I was not inattentive to +her entreaties, I gave him a pair of trousers, and desired Fraser to put +them upon him; but the poor fellow cut so awkward an appearance in them, +that his wife became quite distressed, and Fraser was obliged speedily +to disencumber him from them again. + +We could not gain any satisfactory information, as to the termination of +the river, from these people. It was evident that some change was at hand; +but what it was we could not ascertain. + +APPEARANCE OF SOME APPROACHING CHANGE. + +On the morning of the 9th, we left our fair friend and her lame husband, +and proceeded down the river. The wind had moderated, although it still +blew fresh. We ascended every height as we went along, but could not see +any new feature in the country. Our view to the eastward was very +confined; to the westward the interior was low and dark, and was backed in +the distance by lofty ranges, parallel to which we had been running for +some days. The right bank of the valley was beautifully undulated, but the +left was bleak and bare. The valley had a breadth of from three to four +miles, and the flats were more extensive under the former than under the +latter. They were scarcely two feet above the level of the water, and were +densely covered with reeds. As there was no mark upon the reeds to +indicate the height to which the floods rose, I cannot think that these +flats are ever wholly laid under water; if they are, it cannot be to any +depth: at all events a few small drains would effectually prevent +inundation. The soil upon the hills continued to be much mixed with sand, +and the prevailing trees were cypress and box. Among the minor shrubs and +grass, many common to the east coasts were noticed; and although the bold +cliffs had ceased, the basis of the country still continued of the fossil +formation. At a turn of the stream hereabouts, however, a solitary rock of +coarse red granite rose above the waters, and formed an island in its +centre; but only in this one place was it visible. The rock was composed +principally of quartz and feldspar. + +A little below it, we found a large tribe anxiously awaiting our arrival. +They crowded to the margin of the river with great eagerness, and evinced +more surprise at our appearance than any tribe we had seen during the +journey; but we left them very soon, notwithstanding that they importuned +us much to stay. + +After pulling a mile or two, we found a clear horizon before us to the +south. The hills still continued upon our left, but we could not see any +elevation over the expanse of reeds to our right. The river inclined to +the left, and swept the base of the hills that still continued on that +side. I consequently landed once more to survey the country. + +TERMINATION OF THE MURRAY IN A LARGE LAKE. + +I still retained a strong impression on my mind that some change was at +hand, and on this occasion, I was not disappointed; but the view was one +for which I was not altogether prepared. We had, at length, arrived at the +termination of the Murray. Immediately below me was a beautiful lake, +which appeared to be a fitting reservoir for the noble stream that had led +us to it; and which was now ruffled by the breeze that swept over it. +The ranges were more distinctly visible, stretching from south to north, +and were certainly distant forty miles. They had a regular unbroken +outline; declining gradually to the south, but terminating abruptly at a +lofty mountain northerly. I had no doubt on my mind of this being the +Mount Lofty of Captain Flinders; or that the range was that immediately to +the eastward of St. Vincent's Gulf--Since the accident to the chronometer, +we had not made any westing, so that we knew our position as nearly as +possible. Between us and the ranges a beautiful promontory shot into the +lake, being a continuation of the right bank of the Murray. Over this +promontory the waters stretched to the base of the ranges, and formed an +extensive bay. To the N.W. the country was exceedingly low, but distant +peaks were just visible over it. To the S.W. a bold headland showed +itself; beyond which, to the westward, there was a clear and open sea +visible, through a strait formed by this headland and a point projecting +from the opposite shore. To the E. and S.E. the country was low, excepting +the left shore of the lake, which was backed by some minor elevations, +crowned with cypresses. Even while gazing on this fine scene, I could not +but regret that the Murray had thus terminated; for I immediately foresaw +that, in all probability, we should be disappointed in finding any +practicable communication between the lake and the ocean, as it was +evident that the former was not much influenced by tides. The wind had +again increased; it still blew fresh from the S.W. and a heavy sea was +rolling direct into the mouth of the river. I hoped, notwithstanding, that +we should have been enabled to make sail, for which reason we entered the +lake about 2 p.m. The natives had kindled a large fire on a distant point +between us and the further headland, and to gain this point our efforts +were now directed. The waves were, however, too strong, and we were +obliged to make for the eastern shore, until such time as the weather +should moderate. We pitched our tents on a low track of land that +stretched away seemingly for many miles directly behind us to the +eastward. It was of the richest soil, being a black vegetable deposit, +and although now high above the influence, the lake had, it was evident, +once formed a part of its bed. The appearance of the country altogether +encouraged M'Leay and myself to walk out, in order to examine it from some +hills a little to the S.E. of the camp. From them we observed that the +flat extended over about fifty miles, and was bounded by the elevations +that continued easterly from the left bank of the Murray to the north, +and by a line of rising-ground to the south. The whole was lightly wooded, +and covered with grass. The season must have been unusually dry, judging +from the general appearance of the vegetation, and from the circumstance +of the lagoons in the interior being wholly exhausted. + +Thirty-three days had now passed over our heads since we left the depot +upon the Morumbidgee, twenty-six of which had been passed upon the Murray. +We had, at length, arrived at the grand reservoir of those waters whose +course and fate had previously been involved in such obscurity. It +remained for us to ascertain whether the extensive sheet of water upon +whose bosom we had embarked, had any practicable communication with the +ocean, and whether the country in the neighbourhood of the coast +corresponded with that immediately behind our camp, or kept up its sandy +and sterile character to the very verge of the sea. As I have already +said, my hopes on the first of these points were considerably damped, but +I could not help anticipating a favourable change in the latter, since its +features had so entirely changed. + +DETAINED BY THE WIND. + +The greatest difficulty against which we had at present to contend was the +wind; and I dreaded the exertion it would call for, to make head against +it; for the men were so much reduced that I felt convinced they were +inadequate to any violent or prolonged effort. It still blew fresh at +8 p.m., but at that time it began to moderate. It may be imagined that I +listened to its subdued gusts with extreme anxiety. It did not wholly +abate until after 2 a.m., when it gradually declined, and about 3 a light +breeze sprung up from the N. E. + +We had again placed sticks to ascertain with more precision the rise of +tide, and found it to be the same as in the river. In the stillness of the +night too we thought we heard the roaring of the sea, but I was myself +uncertain upon the point, as the wind might have caused the sound. + +From the top of the hill from which we had obtained our first view of the +lake, I observed the waves breaking upon the distant headland, and +enveloping the cliff in spray; so that, independent of the clearness of +the horizon beyond it, I was further led to conclude that there existed a +great expanse of water to the S.W.; and, as that had been the direction +taken by the river, I thought it probable that by steering at once to the +S.W. down the lake, I should hit the outlet. I, consequently, resolved to +gain the southern extremity of the lake, as that at which it was natural +to expect a communication with the ocean would be found. + +GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. + +At 4 we had a moderate breeze, and it promised to strengthen; we lost no +time therefore in embarking, and with a flowing sheet stretched over to +the W.S.W., and ran along the promontory formed by the right bank of the +Murray. We passed close under its extreme point at nine. The hills had +gradually declined, and we found the point to be a flat, elevated about +thirty feet above the lake. It was separated from the promontory by a +small channel that was choked up with reeds, so that it is more than +probable that the point is insulated at certain periods; whilst in its +stratification it resembled the first cliffs I have described that were +passed below the Darling. It is a remarkable fact in the geology of the +Murray, that such should be the case; and that the formation at each +extremity of the great bank or bed of fossils should be the same. +Thus far, the waters of the lake had continued sweet; but on filling a can +when we were abreast of this point, it was found that they were quite +unpalatable, to say the least of them. The transition from fresh to salt +water was almost immediate, and it was fortunate we made the discovery in +sufficient time to prevent our losing ground. But, as it was, we filled +our casks, and stood on, without for a moment altering our course. + +PASSAGE ACROSS THE LAKE--ITS SHALLOWNESS. + +It is difficult to give a just description of our passage across the lake. +The boisterous weather we had had seemed to have blown over. A cool and +refreshing breeze was carrying us on at between four and five knots an +hour, and the heavens above us were without a cloud. It almost appeared as +if nature had resisted us in order to try our perseverance, and that she +had yielded in pity to our efforts. The men, relieved for a time from the +oar, stretched themselves at their length in the boat, and commented on +the scenery around them, or ventured their opinions as to that which was +before them. Up to this moment their conduct had been most exemplary; not +a murmur had escaped from them, and they filled the water-casks with the +utmost cheerfulness, even whilst tasting the disagreeable beverage they +would most probably have to subsist on for the next three or four days. + +As soon as we had well opened the point, we had a full view of the +splendid bay that, commencing at the western most of the central points, +swept in a beautiful curve under the ranges. No land was visible to the +W.N.W. or to the S.S.W.: in both these quarters the lake was as open as +the ocean. It appeared, therefore, that the land intermediate was an +island. To the north the country was extremely low, and as we increased +our distance from it we lost sight of it altogether. At noon we were +nearly abreast of the eastern headland, or in the centre of the strait to +which I have alluded. At this time there was an open sea from W.N.W. to +N. by E. A meridian altitude gave our latitude 35 degrees 25 minutes. +The land to our left was bold and precipitous; that to the right was low +and wooded; and there was evidently a considerable space between the +shores of the lake and the base of the ranges. The country to the eastward +was hidden from us by the line of cliffs, beyond which from E.S.E. to +W.S.W. there was an open sea. We had kept the lead going from the first, +and I was surprised at the extreme shallowness of the lake in every part, +as we never had six feet upon the line. Its bottom was one of black mud, +and weeds of enormous length were floating on its surface, detached by the +late gales, and which, from the shallowness of the lake, got constantly +entangled with our rudder. + +We tried to land on the eastern point, but found the water too shallow, +and were obliged to try the western shore. In passing close under the +head, we observed several natives upon it, who kindled a large fire as +soon as they saw they were noticed, which was answered from every point; +for, in less than ten minutes afterwards, we counted no fewer than +fourteen different fires, the greater number of which were on the side of +the ranges. + +SHORES OF THE LAKE. + +As we were standing across from one shore to the other, our attention was +drawn to a most singular object. It started suddenly up, as above the +waters to the south, and strikingly resembled an isolated castle. Behind +it, a dense column of smoke rose into the sky, and the effect was most +remarkable. On a nearer approach, the phantom disappeared and a clear and +open sea again presented itself to our view. The fact was, that the +refractive power upon the coast had elevated the sand-hillocks above their +true position, since we satisfactorily ascertained that they alone +separated the lake from the ocean, and that they alone could have produced +the semblance we noticed. It is a singular fact, that this very hillock +was the one which Capt. Barker ascended whilst carrying on the survey of +the south coast, and immediately previous to his tragical death. + +It was not without difficulty that we succeeded in landing on the western +shore; but we did, at length, succeed, and prepared our dinners. The shore +was low, but above the reach of all floods; the soil was rich, and +superficially sandy. It was covered with high grasses, and abounded in +kangaroos; within the space of a few yards we found five or six, but they +were immediately lost to us and to the dogs in the luxuriance of the +vegetation amidst which they were feeding. + +As soon as we had finished our meal, we once more embarked, and stood +along the shore to the S.W., but the lake was so shoal, that I was every +moment apprehensive we should ground. I ran across, therefore, to the +south, towards a low flat that had just appeared above the line of the +horizon, in hope that, in sounding, we should have found the channel, but +there either was none, or else it was so narrow that we passed over it +between the heaves of the lead. At this time, the western shore was quite +distinct, and the scenery was beautiful. + +The flat we were approaching was a mud-flat, and, from its appearance, the +tide was certainly at the ebb. We observed some cradles, or wicker frames, +placed far below high water-mark, that were each guarded by two natives, +who threatened us violently as we approached. In running along the land, +the stench from them plainly indicated what they were which these poor +creatures were so anxiously watching. + +We steered a S.W. course, towards some low and wooded hills, passing a +rocky island, and found that we had struck the mouth of a channel running +to the W.S.W. It was about half-a-mile wide, was bounded to the right by +some open flat ground, and to the left by a line of hills of about sixty +or seventy feet in elevation, partly open and partly covered with +beefwood. + +WARLIKE DEMEANOUR OF THE NATIVES. + +Upon the first of these hills, we observed a large body of natives, who +set up the most terrific yells as we approached. They were fully equipped +for battle and, as we neared the shore, came down to meet us with the most +violent threats. I wished much to communicate with them, and, not without +hopes of quieting them, stood right in with the intention of landing. +I observed, however, that if I did so, I should have to protect myself. +I hauled a little off, and endeavoured, by holding up a branch and a +tomahawk, to gain their confidence, but they were not to be won over by +my show of pacification. An elderly man walked close to the water's edge +unarmed, and, evidently, directed the others. He was followed by seven or +eight of the most daring, who crept into the reeds, with their spears +shipped to throw at us. I, therefore, took up my gun to return their +salute. It then appeared that they were perfectly aware of the weapon I +carried, for the moment they saw it, they dashed out of their hiding place +and retreated to the main body; but the old man, after saying something +to them, walked steadily on, and I, on my part, laid my firelock down +again. + +LOVELY EVENING. + +It was now near sunset; and one of the most lovely evenings I had ever +seen. The sun's radiance was yet upon the mountains, but all lower objects +were in shade. The banks of the channel, with the trees and the rocks, +were reflected in the tranquil waters, whose surface was unruffled save by +the thousands of wild fowl that rose before us, and made a noise as of a +multitude clapping hands, in their clumsy efforts to rise from the waters. +Not one of them allowed us to get within shot. + +We proceeded about a mile below the hill on which the natives were posted; +some few still following us with violent threats. We landed, however, on a +flat, bounded all round by the continuation of the hills. It was an +admirable position, for, in the centre of it, we could not be taken by +surprise, and, on the other hand, we gave the natives an opportunity of +communicating with us if they would. The full moon rose as we were forming +the camp, and, notwithstanding our vicinity to so noisy a host, the +silence of death was around us, or the stillness of the night was only +broken by the roar of the ocean, now too near to be mistaken for wind, +or by the silvery and melancholy note of the black swans as they passed +over us, to seek for food, no doubt, among the slimy weeds at the head of +the lake. We had been quite delighted with the beauty of the channel, +which was rather more than half-a-mile in width. Numberless mounds, that +seemed to invite civilised man to erect his dwelling upon them, presented +themselves to our view. The country round them was open, yet ornamentally +wooded, and rocks and trees hung or drooped over the waters. + +EXTENT OF THE LAKE. + +We had in one day gained a position I once feared it would have cost us +infinite labour to have measured. Indeed, had we been obliged to pull +across the lake, unless during a calm, I am convinced the men would have +been wholly exhausted. We had to thank a kind Providence that such was not +the case, since it had extended its mercy to us at so critical a moment. +We had indeed need of all the little strength we had remaining, and could +ill have thrown it away on such an effort as this would have required. +I calculated that we could not have run less than forty-five miles during +the day, a distance that, together with the eight miles we had advanced +the evening previously, would give the length of the lake at fifty-three +miles. + +We had approached to within twelve miles of the ranges, but had not gained +their southern extremity. From the camp, Mount Barker bore nearly north. +The ranges appeared to run north and south to our position, and then to +bend away to the S.S.W., gradually declining to that point, which I +doubted not terminated in Cape Jervis. The natives kept aloof during the +night, nor did the dogs by a single growl intimate that any had ventured +to approach us. The sound of the surf came gratefully to our ears, for it +told us we were near the goal for which we had so anxiously pushed, and we +all of us promised ourselves a view of the boundless ocean on the morrow. + +CHANNEL TO THE SEA--ITS SHALLOWNESS. + +As the morning dawned, we saw that the natives had thrown an out-post of +sixteen men across the channel, who were watching our motions; but none +showed themselves on the hills behind us, or on any part of the south +shore. We embarked as soon as we had breakfasted, A fresh breeze was +blowing from the N.E. which took us rapidly down the channel, and our +prospects appeared to be as cheering as the day, for just as we were about +to push from the shore, a seal rose close to the boat, which we all +regarded as a favourable omen. We were, however, shortly stopped by +shoals; it was in vain that we beat across the channel from one side to +the other; it was a continued shoal, and the deepest water appeared to be +under the left bank. The tide, however, had fallen, and exposed broad +flats, over which it was hopeless, under existing circumstances, to haul +the boat. We again landed on the south side of the channel, patiently to +await the high water. + +M'Leay, myself, and Fraser, ascended the hills, and went to the opposite +side to ascertain the course of the channel, for immediately above us it +turned south round the hills. We there found that we were on a narrow +tongue of land. The channel was immediately below us, and continued to the +E.S.E. as far as we could trace it. The hills we were upon, were the sandy +hills that always bound a coast that is low, and were covered with +banksias, casuarina and the grass-tree. + +To the south of the channel there was a flat, backed by a range of +sand-hummocks, that were covered with low shrubs; and beyond them the sea +was distinctly visible. We could not have been more than two and a half +miles from the beach where we stood. + +Notwithstanding the sandy nature of the soil, the fossil formation again +showed itself, not only on these hills, but also on the rocks that were in +the channel. + +A little before high water we again embarked. A seal had been observed +playing about, and we augured well from such an omen. The blacks had been +watching us from the opposite shore, and as soon as we moved, rose to keep +abreast of us. With all our efforts we could not avoid the shoals. We +walked up to our knees in mud and water, to find the least variation in +the depth of the water so as to facilitate our exertions, but it was to no +purpose. We were ultimately obliged to drag the boat over the flats; there +were some of them a quarter of a mile in breadth, knee-deep in mud; but at +length got her into deep water again. The turn of the channel was now +before us, and we had a good run for about four or five miles. We had +completed the bend, and the channel now stretched to the E.S.E. At about +nine miles from us there was a bright sand-hill visible, near which the +channel seemed to turn again to the south; and I doubted not that it +terminated there. It was to no purpose, however, that we tried to gain it. +Shoals again closed in upon us on every side. We dragged the boat over +several, and at last got amongst quicksands. I, therefore, directed our +efforts to hauling the boat over to the south side of the channel, as that +on which we could most satisfactorily ascertain our position. After great +labour we succeeded, and, as evening had closed in, lost no time in +pitching the tents. + +BEACH OF ENCOUNTER BAY. + +While the men were thus employed, I took Fraser with me, and, accompanied +by M'Leay, crossed the sand-hummocks behind us, and descended to the +sea-shore. I found that we had struck the south coast deep in the bight +of Encounter Bay. We had no time for examination, but returned immediately +to the camp, as I intended to give the men an opportunity to go to the +beach. They accordingly went and bathed, and returned not only highly +delighted at this little act of good nature on my part, but loaded with +cockles, a bed of which they had managed to find among the sand. Clayton +had tied one end of his shirt up, and brought a bag full, and amused +himself with boiling cockles all night long. + +If I had previously any hopes of being enabled ultimately to push the boat +over the flats that were before us, a view of the channel at low water, +convinced me of the impracticability of any further attempt. The water was +so low that every shoal was exposed, and many stretched directly from one +side of the channel to the other; and, but for the treacherous nature of +the sand-banks, it would not have been difficult to have walked over dry +footed to the opposite side of it. The channel stretched away to the +E.S.E., to a distance of seven or eight miles, when it appeared to turn +south under a small sand-hill, upon which the rays of the sun fell, as it +was sinking behind us. + +CURIOUS EFFECT OF REFRACTION. + +There was an innumerable flock of wild-fowl arranged in rows along the +sides of the pools left by the tide, and we were again amused by the +singular effect of the refraction upon them, and the grotesque and +distorted forms they exhibited. Swans, pelicans, ducks, and geese, were +mingled together, and, according to their distance from us, presented +different appearances. Some were exceedingly tall and thin, others were +unnaturally broad. Some appeared reversed, or as if they were standing on +their heads, and the slightest motion, particularly the flapping of their +wings, produced a most ridiculous effect. No doubt, the situation and the +state of the atmosphere were favourable to the effect I have described. +The day had been fine, the evening was beautiful,--but it was the +rarefaction of the air immediately playing on the ground, and not the +haze at sunset that caused what I have noticed. It is distinct from +mirage, although it is difficult to point out the difference. The one, +however, distorts, the other conceals objects, and gives them a false +distance. The one is clear, the other is cloudy. The one raises objects +above their true position, the other does not. The one plays about, the +other is steady; but I cannot hope to give a proper idea either of mirage +or refraction so satisfactorily as I could wish. Many travellers have +dwelt upon their effects, particularly upon those of the former, but few +have attempted to account for them. + +Our situation was one of peculiar excitement and interest. To our right +the thunder of the heavy surf, that almost shook the ground beneath us, +broke with increasing roar upon our ears; to our left the voice of the +natives echoed through the brush, and the size of their fires at the +extremity of the channel, seemed to indicate the alarm our appearance had +occasioned. + +CRITICAL SITUATION OF THE PARTY. + +While the men were enjoying their cockles, a large kettle of which they +had boiled, M'Leay and I were anxiously employed in examining the state of +our provisions, and in ascertaining what still remained. Flour and tea +were the only articles we had left, so that the task was not a difficult +one. It appeared that we had not sufficient of either to last us to +Pondebadgery, at which place we expected to find supplies; and, taking +every thing into consideration, our circumstances were really critical. + +The first view of Encounter Bay had convinced me that no vessel would ever +venture into it at a season when the S.W. winds prevailed. It was +impossible that we could remain upon the coast in expectation of the +relief that I doubted not had been hurried off for us; since +disappointment would have sealed our fate at once. In the deep bight in +which we were, I could not hope that any vessel would approach +sufficiently near to be seen by us. Our only chance of attracting notice +would have been by crossing the Ranges to the Gulf St. Vincent, but the +men had not strength to walk, and I hesitated to divide my party in the +presence of a determined and numerous enemy, who closely watched our +motions. Setting aside the generous feelings that had prompted M'Leay to +participate in every danger with me, and who I am persuaded would have +deeply felt a separation, my anxiety not only on his account, but on +account of the men I might leave in charge of the boat, made me averse to +this measure; the chance of any misfortune to them involving in it the +destruction of our boat and the loss of our provisions. My anxiety of mind +would have rendered me unfit for exertion; yet so desirous was I of +examining the ranges and the country at their base, that I should, had our +passage to the salt water been uninterrupted, have determined on coasting +it homewards, or of steering for Launceston; and most assuredly, with my +present experience, I would rather incur the hazards of so desperate a +step, than contend against all the evils that beset us on out homeward +journey. And the reader may rest assured, I was as much without hopes of +our eventual safety, as I was astonished, at the close of our labours, to +find that they had terminated so happily. + +INSPECTION OF THE CHANNEL FROM THE LAKE TO THE OCEAN. + +Further exertion on the part of the men being out of the question, I +determined to remain no longer on the coast than to enable me to trace the +channel to its actual junction with the sea, and to ascertain the features +of the coast at that important point. I was reluctant to exhaust the +strength of the men in dragging the boat over the numberless flats that +were before us, and made up my mind to walk along the shore until I should +gain the outlet. I at length arranged that M'Leay, I, and Fraser, should +start on this excursion, at the earliest dawn, leaving Harris and +Hopkinson in charge of the camp; for as we were to go towards the position +of the natives, I thought it improbable they would attack the camp without +my being instantly aware of it. + +We had, as I have said, intended starting at the earliest dawn, but the +night was so clear and refreshing, and the moon so bright that we +determined to avail ourselves of both, and accordingly left the tents at +3 a.m. I directed Harris to strike them at 8, and to have every thing in +readiness for our departure at that hour. We then commenced our +excursion, and I led my companions rapidly along the shore of Encounter +Bay, after crossing the sand-hills about a mile below the camp. After a +hasty and distressing walk of about seven miles, we found that the +sand-hills terminated, and a low beach spread before us. The day was just +breaking, and at the distance of a mile from us we saw the sand-hill I +have already had occasion to notice, and at about a quarter of a mile from +its base, we were checked by the channel; which, as I rightly conjectured, +being stopped in its easterly course by some rising ground, the tongue of +land on which the blacks were posted, suddenly turns south, and, striking +this sand-hill, immediately enters the sea; and we noticed, in the bight +under the rising ground, that the natives had lit a chain of small fires. +This was, most probably, a detached party watching our movements, as they +could, from where they were posted, see our camp. + +At the time we arrived at the end of the channel, the tide had turned, and +was again setting in. The entrance appeared to me to be somewhat less than +a quarter of a mile in breadth. Under the sand-hill on the off side, the +water is deep and the current strong. No doubt, at high tide, a part of +the low beach we had traversed is covered. The mouth of the channel is +defended by a double line of breakers, amidst which, it would be +dangerous to venture, except in calm and summer weather; and the line of +foam is unbroken from one end of Encounter Bay to the other. Thus were our +fears of the impracticability and inutility of the channel of +communication between the lake and the ocean confirmed. + +DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS OF THE RETURN. + +I would fain have lingered on my way, to examine, as far as circumstances +would permit, the beautiful country between the lake and the ranges; and +it was with heart-felt sorrow that I yielded to necessity. My men were +indeed very weak from poverty of diet and from great bodily fatigue. +Hopkinson, Mulholland, and Macnamee were miserably reduced. The two +former, especially, had exerted themselves beyond their strength, and +although I am confident they would have obeyed my orders to the last, +I did not feel myself justified, considering the gigantic task we had +before us, to impose additional labour upon them. + +It will be borne in mind that our difficulties were just about to +commence, when those of most other travellers have ceased; and that +instead of being assisted by the stream whose course we had followed, we +had now to contend against the united waters of the eastern ranges, +with diminished strength, and, in some measure, with disappointed +feelings. + +Under the most favourable circumstances, it was improbable that the men +would be enabled to pull for many days longer in succession; since they +had not rested upon their oars for a single day, if I except our passage +across the lake, from the moment when we started from the depot; nor was +it possible for me to buoy them up with the hope even of a momentary +cessation from labour. We had calculated the time to which our supply of +provisions would last under the most favourable circumstances, and it was +only in the event of our pulling up against the current, day after day, +the same distance we had compassed with the current in our favour, that we +could hope they would last us as long as we continued in the Murray. +But in the event of floods, or any unforeseen delay, in was impossible +to calculate at what moment we might be driven to extremity. + +Independent of these casualties, there were other circumstances of peril +to be taken into consideration. As I have already observed, I foresaw +great danger in again running through the natives. I had every reason to +believe that many of the tribes with which we had communicated on +apparently friendly terms, regretted having allowed us to pass unmolested; +nor was I at all satisfied as to the treatment we might receive from them, +when unattended by the envoys who had once or twice controlled their fury. +Our best security, therefore, against the attacks of the natives was +celerity of movement; and the men themselves seemed to be perfectly aware +of the consequences of delay. Our provisions, moreover, being calculated +to last to a certain point only, the slightest accident, the staving-in +of the boat, or the rise of the river, would inevitably be attended with +calamity. To think of reducing our rations of only three quarters of a +pound of flour per diem, was out of the question, or to hope that the men, +with less sustenance than that, would perform the work necessary to ensure +their safety, would have been unreasonable. It was better that our +provisions should hold out to a place from which we might abandon the boat +with some prospect of reaching by an effort a stock station, or the plain +on which Robert Harris was to await our return, than that they should be +consumed before the half of our homeward journey should be accomplished. +Delay, therefore, under our circumstances, would have been imprudent +and unjustifiable. + + +PATIENCE OF THE MEN--RE-ENTER THE MURRAY. +On the other hand, it was sufficiently evident to me, that the men were +too much exhausted to perform the task that was before them without +assistance, and that it would be necessary both for M'Leay and myself, +to take our share of labour at the oars. The cheerfulness and satisfaction +that my young friend evinced at the opportunity that was thus afforded him +of making himself useful, and of relieving those under him from some +portion of their toil, at the same time that they increased my sincere +esteem for him, were nothing more than what I expected from one who had +endeavoured by every means in his power to contribute to the success of +that enterprise upon which he had embarked. But although I have said thus +much of the exhausted condition of the men,--and ere these pages are +concluded my readers will feel satisfied as to the truth of my +statement--I would by no means be understood to say that they flagged for +a moment, or that a single murmur escaped them. No reluctance was visible, +no complaint was heard, but there was that in their aspect and appearance +which they could not hide, and which I could not mistake. My object in +dwelling so long upon this subject has been to point out our situation and +our feelings when we re-entered the Murray. The only circumstance that +appeared to be in our favour was the prevalence of the south-west wind, +by which I hoped we should be assisted in running up the first broad +reaches of that river. I could not but acknowledge the bounty of that +Providence, which had favoured us in our passage across the lake, and I +was led to hope that its merciful superintendance would protect us from +evil, and would silently direct us where human foresight and prudence +failed. We re-entered the river on the 13th under as fair prospects as +we would have desired. The gale which had blown with such violence in the +morning gradually abated, and a steady breeze enabled us to pass our first +encampment by availing ourselves of it as long as day light continued. +Both the valley and the river showed to advantage as we approached them, +and the scenery upon our left (the proper right bank of the Murray) +was really beautiful. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + + +Valley of the Murray--Its character and capabilities--Laborious progress +up the river--Accident to the boat--Perilous collision with the natives +--Turbid current of the Rufus--Passage of the Rapids--Assisted by the +natives--Dangerous intercourse with them--Re-enter the Morumbidgee-- +Verdant condition of its banks--Nocturnal encounter with the natives-- +Interesting manifestation of feeling in one family--Reach the spot where +the party had embarked on the river--Men begin to fail entirely-- +Determine to send two men forward for relief--Their return--Excursion on +horseback--Reach Pondebadgery Plain, and meet the supplies from the +colony--Cannibalism of the natives--Return to Sydney--Concluding remarks. + +VALLEY OF THE MURRAY. + +The valley of the Murray, at its entrance, cannot be less than four miles +in breadth. The river does not occupy the centre but inclines to either +side, according to its windings, and thus the flats are of greater or less +extent, according to the distance of the river from the base of the hills. +It is to be remarked, that the bottom of the valley is extremely level, +and extensively covered with reeds. From the latter circumstance, one +would be led to infer that these flats are subject to overflow, and no +doubt can exist as to the fact of their being, at least partially, if not +wholly, under water at times. A country in a state of nature is, however, +so different from one in a state of cultivation, that it is hazardous to +give an opinion as to its practical availableness, if I may use such a +term. I should, undoubtedly, say the marshes of the Macquarie were +frequently covered with water, and that they were wholly unfit for any one +purpose whatever. It is evident from the marks of the reeds upon the +banks, that the flood covers them occasionally to the depth of three feet, +and the reeds are so densely embodied and so close to the river side that +the natives cannot walk along it. The reeds are the broad flag-reed +(arundo phragmatis), and grow on a stiff earthy loam, without any +accompanying vegetation; indeed, they form so solid a mass that the sun +cannot penetrate to the ground to nourish vegetation. On the other hand, +the valley of the Murray, though covered with reeds in most places, is not +so in all. There is no mark upon the reeds by which to judge as to the +height of inundation, neither are they of the same kind as those which +cover the marshes of the Macquarie. They are the species of round reed of +which the South-sea islanders make their arrows, and stand sufficiently +open, not only to allow of a passage through, but for the abundant growth +of grass among them. Still, I have no doubt that parts of the valley are +subject to flood; but, as I have already remarked, I do not know whether +these parts are either deeply or frequently covered. Rain must fall +simultaneously in the S.E. angle of the island in the inter-tropical +regions, and at the heads of all the tributaries of the main stream, ere +its effects can be felt in the lower parts of the Murray. If the valley of +the Murray is not subject to flood, it has only recently gained a height +above the influence of the river, and still retains all the character of +flooded land. In either case, however, it contains land that is of the +very richest kind--soil that is the pure accumulation of vegetable matter, +and is as black as ebony. If its hundreds of thousands of acres were +practically available, I should not hesitate to pronounce it one of the +richest spots of equal extent on earth, and highly favoured in other +respects. How far it is available remains to be proved; and an opinion +upon either side would be hazardous, although that of its liability to +flood would, most probably, be nearest to truth. It is, however, certain +that any part of the valley would require much labour before it could be +brought under cultivation, and that even its most available spots would +require almost as much trouble to clear them as the forest tract, for +nothing is more difficult to destroy than reeds. Breaking the sod would, +naturally, raise the level of the ground, and lateral drains would, most +probably, carry off all floods, but then the latter, at least, is the +operation of an advanced stage of husbandry only. I would, however, +observe that there are many parts of the valley decidedly above the reach +of flood. I have, in the above observations, been particularly alluding to +the lowest and broadest portions of it. I trust I shall be understood as +not wishing to over-rate this discovery on the one hand, or on the other, +to include its whole extent in one sweeping clause of condemnation. + +On the 14th, the wind still continued to blow fresh from the N.W. +It moderated at noon, and assisted us beyond measure. We passed our first +encampment, but did not see any natives. + +CORDIALITY OF THE NATIVES. + +On the 15th, the wind was variable at daylight, and a dense fog was on the +river. As the sun rose, it was dissipated and a light breeze sprung up +from W.S.W. We ran up the stream with a free sheet for six hours, when we +stopped for a short time to get the kettle boiled. Four natives joined us, +but with the exception of the lowest tribe upon the right bank, we had not +seen any number. We were extremely liberal to this tribe, in consequence +of the satisfaction they evinced at our return. We had alarmed them much +on our passage down the river by firing at a snake that was swimming +across it. We, at first, attempted to kill it with the boat-hook, but the +animal dived at our approach, and appeared again at a considerable +distance. Another such dive would have ensured his escape, but a shot +effectually checked him, and as the natives evinced considerable alarm, we +held him up, to show them the object of our proceedings. On our return, +they seemed to have forgotten their fright, and received us with every +demonstration of joy. The different receptions we met with from different +tribes are difficult to be accounted for. + +The country appeared to rise before us, and looked more hilly to the N.W. +than I had supposed it to be. Several fine valleys branched off from the +main one to the westward, and, however barren the heights that confined +them were, I am inclined to think, that the distant interior is fertile. +The marks of kangaroos were numerous, and the absence of the natives would +indicate that they have other and better means of subsisting in the back +country than what the river affords. + +In the evening, we again ran on for two hours and a half, and reached the +first of the cliffs. + +On the 16th, we were again fortunate in the wind, and pressed up the river +as long as day-light continued. At the termination of our journey, we +found ourselves a day's journey in advance. This inspirited the men, and +they began to forget the labours they had gone through, as well as those +that were before them. + +On the 17th, we again commenced pulling, the wind being at north, and +contrary. It did not, however, remain in that quarter long, but backed at +noon to the S.W., so that we were enabled to make a good day's journey, +and rather gained than lost ground. + +REMARKABLE CLIFF--GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. + +Having left the undulating hills, at the mouth of the valley behind us, +we passed cliff after cliff of fossil formation: they had a uniform +appearance as to the substance of which they were composed, and varied +but little in colour. Having already examined them, we thought it +unnecessary to give them any further special attention, since it was +improbable we should find anything new. In turning an angle of the river, +however, a broad reach stretched away before us. An alluvial flat extended +to our left, and a high line of cliffs, that differed in no visible +respect from those we had already passed, rose over the opposite side of +the river. The cliffs faced the W.N.W., and as the sun declined, his beams +struck full upon them. As we shot past, we were quite dazzled with the +burst of light that flashed upon us, and which gave to the whole face of +the cliff the appearance of a splendid mirror. The effect was of course +momentary; for as soon as we had passed the angle of refraction, there was +nothing unusual in its appearance. On a nearer approach, however, it +appeared again as if studded with stars. We had already determined on +examining it more closely, and this second peculiarity still further +excited our curiosity. On landing, we found the whole cliff to be a mass +of selenite, in which the various shells already noticed were plentifully +embedded, as in ice. The features of the cliff differed from any we had +previously remarked. Large masses, or blocks of square or oblong shape, +had fallen to its base, and its surface was hard, whereas the face of the +majority of the other cliffs was soft from the effect of the atmosphere; +and the rock was entirely free from every other substance, excepting the +shells of which it was composed. We of course collected some good +specimens, although they added very considerably to the weight of our +cargo. + +The morning of the 18th was calm and cloudless. The wind, of which there +was but little, came from the north, and was as usual warm. We availed +ourselves of a favourable spot to haul our boat on shore under one of the +cliffs upon the proper left of the river, and cleaned her well both +inside and out. + +LABORIOUS ASCENT OF THE BOAT. + +The breezes that had so much assisted as from the lake upwards, had now +lost their influence, or failed to reach to the distance we had gained. +Calms succeeded them, and obliged us to labour continually at the oars. +We lost ground fast, and it wee astonishing to remark how soon the men's +spirits drooped again under their first efforts. They fancied the boat +pulled heavily, and that her bottom was foul; but such was not the case. +The current was not so strong as when we passed down, since the river had +evidently fallen more than a foot, and was so shallow in several places, +that we were obliged to haul the boat over them. On these occasions we +were necessarily obliged to get out of her into the water, and had +afterwards to sit still and to allow the sun to dry our clothes upon us. +The unemployed consequently envied those at the oars, as they sat +shivering in their dripping clothes. I was aware that it was more from +imagination than reality, that the men fancied the boat was unusually +heavy, but I hesitated not in humouring them, and rather entered into +their ideas than otherwise, and endeavoured to persuade them that she +pulled the lighter for the cleaning we gave her. + +A tribe of natives joined us, and we had the additional trouble of +guarding our stores. They were, however, very quiet, and as we had broken +up our casks, on leaving the coast, we were enabled to be liberal in our +presents of iron hoop, which they eagerly received. We calculated that we +should reach the principal junction in about fifteen days from this place. + +NATIVE BURIAL-PLACE. + +The natives left us to pursue our solitary journey as soon as the boat was +reloaded. Not one of them had the curiosity to follow us, nor did they +appear to think it necessary that we should he attended by envoys. We +stopped for the night upon the left bank; and close to a burial-ground +that differed from any I had ever seen. It must have been used many years, +from the number of bones that were found in the bank, but there were no +other indications of such a place either by mounds or by marks on the +trees. The fact, therefore, is a singular one. I have thought that some +battle might have been fought near the place, but I can hardly think one +of their battles could have been so destructive. + +IMPEDED BY SHOALS. + +We had now only to make the best of our journey, rising at dawn, and +pulling to seven and often to nine o'clock. I allowed the men an hour from +half-past eleven to half-past twelve, to take their bread and water. This +was our only fare, if I except an occasional wild duck; but these birds +were extremely difficult to kill, and it cost us so much time, that we +seldom endeavoured to procure any. Our dogs had been of no great use, and +were now too weak to have run after anything if they had seen either +kangaroos or emus; and for the fish, the men loathed them, and were either +too indifferent or too much fatigued to set the night-lines. Shoals +frequently impeded us as we proceeded up the river, and we passed some +rapids that called for our whole strength to stem. A light wind assisted +us on two or three of these occasions, and I never failed hoisting the +sail at every fitting opportunity. In some parts the river was extremely +shallow, and the sand-banks of amazing size; and the annoyance of dragging +the boat over these occasional bars, was very great. We passed several +tribes of blacks on the 19th and 20th; but did not stop to communicate +with them. + +I believe I have already mentioned that shortly after we first entered the +Murray, flocks of a new paroquet passed over our heads, apparently +emigrating to the N.W. They always kept too high to be fired at, but on +our return, hereabouts, we succeeded in killing one. It made a good +addition to our scanty stock of subjects of natural history. It is +impossible to conceive how few of the feathered tribe frequent these +distant and lonely regions. The common white cockatoo is the most +numerous, and there are also a few pigeons; but other birds descend only +for water, and are soon again upon the wing. Our botanical specimens were +as scanty as our zoological, indeed the expedition may, as regards these +two particulars, almost be said to have been unproductive. + +COMPILATION OF THE CHART. + +When we came down the river, I thought it advisable to lay its course down +as precisely as circumstances would permit: for for this purpose I had a +large compass always before me, and a sheet of foolscap paper. As soon as +we passed an angle of the river, I took the bearings of the reach before +us, and as we proceeded down it, marked off the description of country, +and any remarkable feature. The consequence was, that I laid down every +bend of the Murray River, from the Morumbidgee downwards. Its creeks, its +tributaries, its flats, its valleys, and its cliffs, and, as far as I +possibly could do, the nature of the distant interior. This chart was, +of course, erroneous in many particulars, since I had to judge the length +of the reaches of the river, and the extent of its angles, but I corrected +it on the scale of the miles of latitude we made during the day, which +brought out an approximate truth at all events. The hurried nature of our +journey would not allow me to do more; and it will be remembered that my +observations were all siderial, by reason that the sextant would not +embrace the sun in his almost vertical position at noon. Admitting, +however, the imperfection of this chart, it was of inconceivable value and +comfort to us on our return, for, by a reference to it, we discovered our +place upon the river, and our distance from our several encampments. +And we should often have stopped short of them had not the chart shown us +that a few reaches more would bring us to the desired spots. It cheered +the men to know where they were, and gave them conversation. To myself it +was very satisfactory, as it enabled me to prepare for our meetings with +the larger tribes, and to steer clear of obstacles in the more difficult +navigation of some parts of the stream. + +On the 21st, by dint of great labour we reached our camp of the 2nd +February, from which it will be remembered the Murray took up a southerly +course, and from which we likewise obtained a first view of the coast +ranges. The journey to the sea and back again, had consequently occupied +us twenty days. From this point we turned our boat's head homewards; we +made it, therefore, a fixed position among the stages into which we +divided our journey. Our attention was now directed to the junction of the +principal tributary, which we hoped to reach in twelve days, and +anticipated a close to our labours on the Murray in eight days more from +that stage to the Morumbidgee. + +CURRENT OF THE MURRAY. + +The current in the Murray from the lake, to within a short distance of +this singular turn in it, is weak, since its bed is almost on a level with +the lake. The channel, which, at the termination, is somewhat more than +the third of a mile across, gradually diminishes in breadth, as the +interior is gained, but is nowhere under 300 yards; while its depth +averages from eighteen to thirty feet, within a foot of the very bank. +The river might, therefore, be navigated by boats of considerable burden, +if the lake admitted of the same facility; but I am decidedly of opinion, +that the latter is generally shallow, and that it will, in the course of +years, be filled up by depositions. It is not, however, an estuary in any +sense of the word, since no part of it is exposed at low water, excepting +the flats in the channel, and the flat between the lake and the sea. + +ACCIDENT TO THE BOAT. + +On the 23rd, we stove the boat in for the first time. I had all along +anticipated such an accident, from the difficulty of avoiding obstacles, +in consequence of the turbid state of the river. Fortunately the boat +struck a rotten log. The piece remained in her side, and prevented her +filling, which she must, otherwise, inevitably have done, ere we could +have reached the shore. As it was, however, we escaped with a little +damage to the lower bags of flour only. She was hauled up on a sand bank, +and Clayton repaired her in less than two hours, when we reloaded her +and pursued our journey. It was impossible to have been more cautious than +we were, for I was satisfied as to the fate that would have overtaken the +whole of us in the event of our losing the boat, and was proportionably +vigilant. + +MOLESTED BY THE NATIVES. + +At half-past five we came to an island, which looked so inviting, and so +quiet, that I determined to land and sleep upon it. We consequently, ran +the boat into a little recess, or bay, and pitched the tents; and I +anticipated a respite from the presence of any natives, as did the men, +who were rejoiced at my having taken up so snug a berth. It happened, +however, that a little after sunset, a flight of the new paroquets +perched in the lofty trees that grew on the island, to roost; when we +immediately commenced the work of death, and succeeded in killing eight or +ten. The reports of our guns were heard by some natives up the river, and +several came over to us. Although I was annoyed at their having discovered +our retreat, they were too few to be troublesome. During the night, +however, they were joined by fresh numbers, amounting in all to about +eighty, and they were so clamorous, that it was impossible to sleep. + +NATIVES BECOME TROUBLESOME. + +As the morning broke, Hopkinson came to inform me that it was in vain that +the guard endeavoured to prevent them from handling every thing, and from +closing in round our camp. I went out, and from what I saw I thought it +advisable to double the sentries. M'Leay, who was really tired, being +unable to close his eyes amid such a din, got up in ill-humour, and went +to see into the cause, and to check it if he could. This, however, was +impossible. One man was particularly forward and insolent, at whom M'Leay, +rather imprudently, threw a piece of dirt. The savage returned the +compliment with as much good will as it had been given, and appeared quite +prepared to act on the offensive. At this critical moment my servant came +to the tent in which I was washing myself, and stated his fears that we +should soon come to blows, as the natives showed every disposition to +resist us. On learning what had passed between M'Leay and the savage, +I pretended to be equally angry with both, and with some difficulty forced +the greater part of the blacks away from the tents. I then directed the +men to gather together all the minor articles in the first instance, and +then to strike the tents; and, in order to check the natives, I drew a +line round the camp, over which I intimated to them they should not pass. +Observing, I suppose, that we were on our guard, and that I, whom they +well knew to be the chief, was really angry, they crept away one by one, +until the island was almost deserted by them. Why they did not attack us, +I know not, for they had certainly every disposition to do so, and had +their shorter weapons with them, which, in so confined a space as that on +which we were, would have been more fatal than their spears + +They left us, however; and a flight of red-crested cockatoos happening to +settle on a plain near the river, I crossed in the boat in order to shoot +one. The plain was upon the proper left bank of the Murray. The natives +had passed over to the right. As the one channel was too shallow for the +boat, when we again pursued our journey we were obliged to pull round to +the left side of the island. A little above it the river makes a bend to +the left, and the angle at this bend was occupied by a large shoal, +one point of which rested on the upper part of the island, and the other +touched the proper right bank of the river. Thus a narrow channel, +(not broader indeed than was necessary for the play of our oars,) alone +remained for us to pass up against a strong current. On turning round the +lower part of the island, we observed that the natives occupied the whole +extent of the shoal, and speckled it over like skirmishers. Many of them +had their spears, and their attention was evidently directed to us.--As we +neared the shoal, the most forward of them pressed close to the edge of +the deep water, so much so that our oars struck their legs. Still this did +not induce them to retire. I kept my eye on an elderly man who stood one +of the most forward, and who motioned to us several times to stop, and at +length threw the weapon he carried at the boat. I immediately jumped up +and pointed my gun at him to his great apparent alarm. Whether the natives +hoped to intimidate us by a show of numbers, or what immediate object they +had in view, it is difficult to say; though it was most probably to seize +a fitting opportunity to attack us. Seeing, I suppose, that we were not to +be checked, they crossed from the shoal to the proper right bank of the +river, and disappeared among the reeds that lined it. + +TREACHERY OF THE NATIVES. + +Shortly after this, eight of the women, whom we had not before noticed, +came down to the water side, and gave us the most pressing invitation to +land. Indeed they played their part uncommonly well, and tried for some +time to allure us by the most unequivocal manifestations of love. +Hopkinson however who always had his eyes about him, observed the spears +of the men among the reeds. They kept abreast of us as we pulled up the +stream, and, no doubt, were anticipating our inability to resist the +temptations they had thrown in our way. I was really provoked at their +barefaced treachery, and should most undoubtedly have attacked them, had +they not precipitately retreated on being warned by the women that I was +arming my men, which I had only now done upon seeing such strong +manifestations of danger. M'Leay set the example of coolness on this +occasion; and I had some doubts whether I was justified in allowing the +natives to escape with impunity, considering that if they had wounded any +one of us the most melancholy and fatal results would have ensued. + +We did not see anything more of the blacks during the rest of the day, +but the repeated indications of hostility we perceived as we approached +the Darling, made me apprehensive as to the reception we should meet from +its numerous population; and I was sorry to observe that the men +anticipated danger in passing that promising junction. + +Having left the sea breezes behind us, the weather had become oppressive; +and as the current was stronger, and rapids more numerous, our labour was +proportionably increased. We perspired to an astonishing degree, and gave +up our oars after our turn at them, with shirts and clothes as wet as if +we had been in the water. Indeed Mulholland and Hopkinson, who worked +hard, poured a considerable quantity of perspiration from their shoes +after their task. The evil of this was that we were always chilled after +rowing, and, of course, suffered more than we should otherwise have done. + +RE-PASS THE LINDESAY. + +On the 25th we passed the last of the cliffs composing the great fossil +bed through which the Murray flows, and entered that low country already +described as being immediately above it. On a more attentive examination +of the distant interior, my opinion as to its flooded origin was +confirmed, more especially in reference to the country to the S.E. On the +30th we passed the mouth of the Lindesay, and from the summit of the sand +hills to the north of the Murray overlooked the flat country, through +which I conclude it must run, from the line of fires we observed amid the +trees, and most probably upon its banks. + +We did not fall in with the natives in such numbers as when we passed down +to the coast: still they were in sufficient bodies to be troublesome. +It would, however, appear that the tribes do not generally frequent the +river. They must have a better country back from it, and most probably +linger amongst the lagoons and creeks where food is more abundant. The +fact is evident from the want of huts upon the banks of the Murray, and +the narrowness of the paths along its margin. + +RE-PASSED THE RUFUS. + +We experienced the most oppressive heat about this time. Calms generally +prevailed, and about 3 p.m. the sun's rays fell upon us with intense +effect. The waters of the Murray continued extremely muddy, a circumstance +we discovered to be owing to the turbid current of the Rufus, which we +passed on the 1st of March. It is, really, singular whence this little +stream originates. It will be remembered that I concluded it must have +been swollen by rains when we first saw it; yet, after an absence of more +than three weeks we found it discharging its waters as muddy as ever into +the main stream; and that, too, in such quantities as to discolour its +waters to the very lake. The reader will have some idea of the force of +the current in both, when I assure him that for nearly fifty yards below +the mouth of the Rufus, the waters of the Murray preserve their +transparency, and the line between them and the turbid waters of its +tributary was as distinctly marked as if drawn by a pencil. Indeed, +the higher we advanced, the more did we feel the strength of the current, +against which we had to pull. + +DIFFICULTIES AT THE RAPIDS. + +A little below the Lindesay, a rapid occurs. It was with the utmost +difficulty that we stemmed it with the four oars upon the boat, and the +exertion of our whole strength. We remained, at one time, perfectly +stationary, the force we employed and that of the current being equal. +We at length ran up the stream obliquely; but it was evident the men were +not adequate to such exertion for any length of time. We pulled that day +for eleven successive hours, in order to avoid a tribe of natives who +followed us. Hopkinson and Fraser fell asleep at their oars, and even the +heavy Clayton appeared to labour. + +We again occupied our camp under the first remarkable cliffs of the +Murray, a description of which has been given in page 128 of this work. +[GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATION.] Their summit, as I have already remarked forms a +table land of some elevation. From it the distant interior to the S.S.E. +appears very depressed; that to the north undulates more. In neither +quarter, however, does any bright foliage meet the eye, to tell that a +better soil is under it; but a dark and gloomy vegetation occupies both +the near and distant ground, in proof that the sandy sterile tracts, +succeeding the river deposits, stretch far away without a change. + +A little above our camp of the 28th of January, we fell in with a large +tribe of natives, whose anxiety to detain us was remarkable. The wind, +however, which, from the time we lost the sea breezes, had hung to the +S.E., had changed to the S.W., and we were eagerly availing ourselves of +it. It will not he supposed we stopped even for a moment. In truth we +pressed on with great success, and did not land to sleep until nine +o'clock. As long as the wind blew from the S.W., the days were cool, and +the sky overcast even so much so as to threaten rain. + +The least circumstance, in our critical situation, naturally raised my +apprehensions, and I feared the river would be swollen in the event of +any heavy rains in the hilly country; I hoped, however, we should gain the +Morumbidgee before such a calamity should happen to us, and it became +my object to press for that river without delay. + +OBSTACLES TO THE NAVIGATION--DANGEROUS RAPIDS. + +Although we had met with frequent rapids in our progress upwards, they had +not been of a serious kind, nor such as would affect the navigation of the +river. The first direct obstacle of this kind occurs a little above a +small tributary that falls into the Murray from the north, between the +Rufus and the cliffs we have alluded to. At this place a reef of coarse +grit contracts the channel of the river. No force we could have exerted +with the oars would have taken us up this rapid; but we accomplished the +task easily by means of a rope which we hauled upon, on the same principle +that barges are dragged by horses along the canals. + +As we neared the junction of the two main streams, the country, on both +sides of the river, became low, and its general appearance confirmed the +opinion I have already given as to its flooded origin. The clouds that +obscured the sky, and had threatened to burst for some time, at length +gave way, and we experienced two or three days of heavy rain. In the midst +of it we passed the second stage of our journey, and found the spot lately +so crowded with inhabitants totally deserted. A little above it we +surprised a small tribe in a temporary shelter; but neither our offers nor +presents could prevail on any of them to expose themselves to the torrent +that was falling. They sat shivering in their bark huts in evident +astonishment at our indifference. We threw them some trifling presents and +were glad to proceed unattended by any of them. + +PERILOUS ASCENT OF THE RAPIDS. + +It will he remembered that in passing down the river, the boat was placed +in some danger in descending a rapid before we reached the junction of the +Murray with the stream supposed by me to be the Darling. We were now +gradually approaching the rapid, nor did I well know how we should +surmount such an obstacle. Strength to pull up it we had not, and I feared +our ropes would not be long enough to reach to the shore over some of the +rocks, since it descended in minor declivities to a considerable distance +below the principal rapid, in the centre of which the boat had struck. +We reached the commencement of these rapids on the 6th, and ascended the +first by means of ropes, which were hauled upon by three of the men from +the bank; and, as the day was pretty far advanced, we stopped a little +above it, that we might attempt the principal rapid before we should be +exhausted by previous exertion. It was fortunate that we took such a +precaution. The morning of the 7th proved extremely dark, and much rain +fell. We commenced our journey in the midst of it, and soon gained the +tail of the rapid. Our attempt to pull up it completely failed. The boat, +as soon as she entered the ripple, spun round like a toy, and away we went +with the stream. As I had anticipated, our ropes were too short; and it +only remained for us to get into the water, and haul the boat up by main +force. We managed pretty well at first, and drew her alongside a rock to +rest a little. We then recommenced our efforts, and had got into the +middle of the channel. We were up to our armpits in the water, and only +kept our position by means of rocks beside us. The rain was falling, as if +we were in a tropical shower, and the force of the current was such, that +if we had relaxed for an instant, we should have lost all the ground we +had gained. Just at this moment, however, without our being aware of their +approach, a large tribe of natives, with their spears, lined the bank, +and took us most completely by surprise. At no time during this anxious +journey were we ever so completely in their power, or in so defenceless a +situation. It rained so hard, that our firelocks would have been of no +use, and had they attacked us, we must necessarily have been slaughtered +without committing the least execution upon them. Nothing, therefore, +remained for us but to continue our exertions. It required only one +strong effort to get the boat into still water for a time, but that effort +was beyond our strength, and we stood in the stream, powerless and +exhausted. + +ASSISTED BY THE NATIVES. + +The natives, in the meanwhile, resting on their spears, watched us with +earnest attention. One of them, who was sitting close to the water, at +length called to us, and we immediately recognised the deep voice of him +to whose singular interference we were indebted for our escape on the +23rd of January. I desired Hopkinson to swim over to him, and to explain +that we wanted assistance. This was given without hesitation; and we at +length got under the lea of the rock, which I have already described as +being in the centre of the river. The natives launched their bark canoes, +the only frail means they possess of crossing the rivers with their +children. These canoes are of the simplest construction and rudest +materials, being formed of an oblong piece of bark, the ends of which are +stuffed with clay, so as to render them impervious to the water. With +several of these they now paddled round us with the greatest care, making +their spears, about ten feet in length,(which they use at once as poles +and paddles,) bend nearly double in the water. We had still the most +difficult part of the rapid to ascend, where the rush of water was the +strongest, and where the decline of the bed almost amounted to a fall. +Here the blacks could be of no use to us. No man could stem the current, +supposing it to have been shallow at the place, but it was on the contrary +extremely deep. Remaining myself in the boat, I directed all the men to +land, after we had crossed the stream, upon a large rock that formed the +left buttress as it were to this sluice, and, fastening the rope to the +mast instead of her head, they pulled upon it. The unexpected rapidity +with which the boat shot up the passage astonished me, and filled the +natives with wonder, who testified their admiration of so dextrous a +manoeuvre, by a loud shout. + +It will, no doubt, have struck the reader as something very remarkable, +that the same influential savage to whom we had already been indebted, +should have been present on this occasion, and at a moment when we so much +needed his assistance. Having surmounted our difficulties, we took leave +of this remarkable man, and pursued our journey up the river. + +It may be imagined we did not proceed very far; the fact was, we only +pushed forward to get rid of the natives, for, however pacific, they were +always troublesome, and we were seldom fitted for a trial of temper after +the labours of the day were concluded. The men had various occupations +in which, when the natives were present, they were constantly interrupted, +and whenever the larger tribes slept near us, the utmost vigilance was +necessary on the part of the night-guard, which was regularly mounted as +soon as the tents were pitched. We had had little else than our flour to +subsist on. Hopkinson and Harris endeavoured to supply M'Leay and myself +with a wild fowl occasionally, but for themselves, and the other men, +nothing could be procured to render their meal more palatable. + +GOOD CONDUCT OF THE MEN. + +I have omitted to mention one remarkable trait of the good disposition of +all the men while on the coast. Our sugar had held out to that point; but +it appeared, when we examined the stores, that six pounds alone remained +in the cask. This the men positively refused to touch. They said that, +divided, it would benefit nobody; that they hoped M'Leay and I would use +it, that it would last us for some time, and that they were better able to +submit to privations than we were. The feeling did them infinite credit, +and the circumstance is not forgotten by me. The little supply the +kindness of our men left to us was, however, soon exhausted, and poor +M'Leay preferred pure water to the bitter draught that remained. I have +been some times unable to refrain from smiling, as I watched the distorted +countenances of my humble companions while drinking their tea and eating +their damper. + +The ducks and swans, seen in such myriads on the lake, seldom appeared on +the river, in the first stages of our journey homewards. About the time of +which I am writing, however, a few swans occasionally flew over our heads +at night, and their silvery note was musically sweet. + +From the 10th to the 15th, nothing of moment occurred: we pulled regularly +from day-light to dark, not less to avoid the natives than to shorten our +journey. Yet, notwithstanding that we moved at an hour when the natives +seldom stir, we were rarely without a party of them, who followed us in +spite of our efforts to tire them out. + +MOLESTED BY NATIVES. + +On the 15th, we had about 150 at our camp. Many of them were extremely +noisy, and the whole of them very restless. They lay down close to the +tents, or around our fire. I entertained some suspicion of them, and when +they were apparently asleep, I watched them narrowly. Macnamee was walking +up and down with his firelock, and every time he turned his back, one of +the natives rose gently up and poised his spear at him, and as soon as +he thought Macnamee was about to trim, he dropped as quietly into his +place. When I say the native got up, I do not mean that he stood up, but +that he raised himself sufficiently for the purpose he had in view. His +spear would not, therefore, have gone with much force, but I determined +it should not quit his hand, for had I observed any actual attempt to +throw it, I should unquestionably have shot him dead upon the spot. +The whole of the natives were awake, and it surprised me they did not +attempt to plunder us. They rose with the earliest dawn, and crowded round +the tents without any hesitation. We, consequently, thought it prudent to +start as soon as we had breakfasted. + +FRASER IN DANGER. + +We had all of us got into the boat, when Fraser remembered he had left his +powder-horn on shore. In getting out to fetch it, he had to push through +the natives. On his return, when his back was towards them, several +natives lifted their spears together, and I was so apprehensive they +would have transfixed him, that I called out before I seized my gun; on +which they lowered their weapons and ran away. The disposition to commit +personal violence was evident from these repeated acts of treachery; and +we should doubtless have suffered from it on some occasion or other, had +we not been constantly on the alert. + +We had been drawing nearer the Morumbidgee every day. This was the last +tribe we saw on the Murray; and the following afternoon, to our great joy, +we quitted it and turned our boat into the gloomy and narrow channel of +its tributary. Our feelings were almost as strong when we re-entered it, +as they had been when we were launched from it into that river, on whose +waters we had continued for upwards of fifty-five days; during which +period, including the sweeps and bends it made, we could not have +travelled less than 1500 miles. + +Our provisions were now running very short; we had, however, "broken the +neck of our journey," as the men said, and we looked anxiously to gaining +the depot; for we were not without hopes that Robert Harris would have +pushed forward to it with his supplies. We were quite puzzled on entering +the Morumbidgee, how to navigate its diminutive bends and its encumbered +channel. I thought poles would have been more convenient than oars; we +therefore stopped at an earlier hour than usual to cut some. Calling to +mind the robbery practised on us shortly after we left the depot, my mind +became uneasy as to Robert Harris's safety, since I thought it probable, +from the sulky disposition of the natives who had visited us there, that +he might have been attacked. Thus, when my apprehensions on our own +account had partly ceased, my fears became excited with regard to him and +his party. + +RE-ENTER THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +The country, to a considerable distance from the junction on either side +the Morumbidgee, is not subject to inundation. Wherever we landed upon its +banks, we found the calistemma in full flower, and in the richest +profusion. There was, also, an abundance of grass, where before there had +been no signs of vegetation, and those spots which we had condemned as +barren were now clothed with a green and luxuriant carpet. So difficult is +it to judge of a country on a partial and hurried survey, and so +differently does it appear at different periods. I was rejoiced to find +that the rains had not swollen the river, for I was apprehensive that +heavy falls had taken place in the mountains, and was unprepared for so +much good fortune. + +FEAST ON A SWAN. + +The poles we cut were of no great use to us, and we soon laid them aside, +and took to our oars. Fortune seemed to favour us exceedingly. The men +rallied, and we succeeded in killing a good fat swan, that served as a +feast for all. I imagine the absence of mud and weeds of every kind in +the Murray, prevents this bird from frequenting its waters. + +On the 18th, we found ourselves entering the reedy country, through which +we had passed with such doubt and anxiety. Every object elicited some +remark from the men, and I was sorry to find they reckoned with certainty +on seeing Harris at the depot, as I knew they would be proportionally +depressed in spirits if disappointed. However, I promised Clayton a good +repast as soon as we should see him. + +LOSE ONE OF OUR DOGS. + +I had walked out with M'Leay a short distance from the river, and had +taken the dogs. They followed us to the camp on our return to it, but the +moment they saw us enter the tent, they went off to hunt by themselves. +About 10 p.m., one of them, Bob, came to the fire, and appeared very +uneasy; he remained, for a short time, and then went away. In about an +hour, he returned, and after exhibiting the same restlessness, again +withdrew. He returned the third time before morning dawned, but returned +alone. The men on the watch were very stupid not to have followed him, +for, no doubt, he went to his companion, to whom, most likely, some +accident had happened. I tried to make him show, but could not succeed, +and, after a long search, reluctantly pursued our journey, leaving poor +Sailor to his fate. This was the only misfortune that befell us, and we +each of us felt the loss of an animal which had participated in all our +dangers and privations. I more especially regretted the circumstance for +the sake of the gentleman who gave him to me, and, on account of his +superior size and activity. + +ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES. + +With the loss of poor Sailor, our misfortunes re-commmenced. I anticipated +some trouble hereabouts, for, having succeeded in their hardihood once, +I knew the natives would again attempt to rob us, and that we should have +some difficulty in keeping them off. As soon as they found out that we +were in the river, they came to us, but left us at sunset. This was on the +21st. At nightfall, I desired the watch to keep a good look out, and +M'Leay and I went to lie down. We had chosen an elevated bank for our +position, and immediately opposite to us there was a small space covered +with reeds, under blue-gum trees. About 11, Hopkinson came to the tent to +say, that he was sure the blacks were approaching through the reeds. +M'Leay and `I got up, and, standing on the bank, listened attentively. +All we heard was the bark of a native dog apparently, but this was, in +fact, a deception on the part of the blacks. We made no noise, in +consequence of which they gradually approached, and two or three crept +behind the trunk of a tree that had fallen. As I thought they were near +enough, George M'Leay, by my desire, fired a charge of small shot at them. +They instantly made a precipitate retreat; but, in order the more +effectually to alarm them, Hopkinson fired a ball into the reeds, which we +distinctly heard cutting its way through them. All was quiet until about +three o'clock, when a poor wretch who, most probably, had thrown himself +on the ground when the shots were fired, at length mustered courage to get +up and effect his escape. + +In the morning, the tribe kept aloof, but endeavoured, by the most earnest +entreaties, and most pitiable howling, to gain our favour; but I +threatened to shoot any that approached, and they consequently kept at a +respectful distance, dogging us from tree to tree. It appeared, therefore, +that they were determined to keep us in view, no doubt, with the intention +of trying what they could do by a second attempt. As they went along, +their numbers increased, and towards evening, they amounted to a strong +tribe. Still they did not venture near us, and only now and then showed +themselves. Our situation at this moment would have been much more awkward +in the event of attack, than when we were in the open channel of the +Murray; because we were quite at the mercy of the natives if they had +closed upon us, and, being directly under the banks, should have received +every spear, while it would have been easy for them to have kept out of +sight in assailing us. + +APPARENT OBSTRUCTION OF THE CHANNEL. + +It was near sunset, the men were tired, and I was looking out for a +convenient place at which to rest, intending to punish these natives if +they provoked me, or annoyed the men. We had not seen any of them for some +time, when Hopkinson, who was standing in the bow of the boat, informed me +that they had thrown boughs across the river to prevent our passage. +I was exceedingly indignant at this, and pushed on, intending to force the +barrier. On our nearer approach, a solitary black was observed standing +close to the river, and abreast of the impediment which I imagined they +had raised to our further progress. I threatened to shoot this man, and +pointed to the branches that stretched right across the stream. The poor +fellow uttered not a word, but, putting his hand behind him, pulled out a +tomahawk from his belt, and held it towards me, by way of claiming our +acquaintance; and any anger was soon entirely appeased by discovering that +the natives had been merely setting a net across the river which these +branches supported. We, consequently, hung back, until they had drawn it, +and then passed on. + +MANOEUVRES OF THE NATIVES TO ROB THE BOAT AT NIGHT. + +The black to whom I had spoken so roughly, cut across a bight of the +river, and walking down to the side of the water with a branch in his +hand, in mark of confidence, presented me with a fishing net. We were +highly pleased at the frank conduct of this black, add a convenient place +offering itself, we landed and pitched our tents. Our friend, who was +about forty, brought his two wives, and a young man, to us: and at length +the other blacks mustered courage to approach; but those who had followed +us from the last camp, kept on the other side of the river. On pretence of +being different families, they separated into small bodies, and formed a +regular cordon round our camp. We foresaw that this was a manoeuvre, but, +in hopes that if I forgave the past they would desist from further +attempts, M'Leay took great pains in conciliating them, and treated them +with great kindness. We gave each family some fire and same presents, and +walked together to them by turns, to show that we had equal confidence in +all. Our friend had posted himself immediately behind our tents, at twenty +yards distance, with his little family, and kept altogether aloof from the +other natives. Having made our round of visits, and examined the various +modes the women had of netting, M'Leay and I went into our tent. + +It happened, fortunately, that my servant, Harris, was the first for +sentry. I told him to keep a watchful eye on the natives, and to call me +if any thing unusual occurred. We had again chosen a lofty bank for our +position; behind us there was a small plain, of about a quarter of a mile +in breadth, backed by a wood. I was almost asleep, when my servant came to +inform me, that the blacks had, with one accord, made a precipitate +retreat, and that not one of them was to be seen at the fires. I impressed +the necessity of attention upon him, and he again went to his post. +shortly after this, he returned: "Master," said he, "the natives are +coming." I jumped up, and, taking my gun, followed him, leaving my friend +George fast asleep. I would not disturb him, until necessity required, for +he had ever shown himself so devoted to duty as to deserve every +consideration. Harris led me a little way from the tents, and then +stopping, and pointing down the river, said, "There, sir, don't you see +them?" "Not I, indeed, Harris," I replied, "where do you mean? are you +sure you see them?" "Positive, sir," said he; "stoop and you will see +them." I did so, and saw a black mass in an opening. Convinced that I saw +them, I desired Harris to follow me, but not to fire unless I should give +the word. The rascals would not stand our charge, however, but retreated +as we advanced towards them. We then returned to the tents, and, +commending my servant for his vigilance, I once more threw myself on my +bed. I had scarcely lain down five minutes, when Harris called out, +"The blacks are close to me, sir; shall I fire at them?" "How fat are +they ?" I asked. "Within ten yards, sir." "Then fire," said I; and +immediately he did so. M'Leay and I jumped up to his assistance. "Well, +Harris," said I, "did you kill your man?" (he is a remarkably good shot.) +"No, sir," said he, "I thought you would repent it, so I fired between the +two." "Where were they, man?" said I. "Close to the boat, sir; and when +they heard me, they swam into the river, and dived as soon as I fired +between them." This account was verified by one of them puffing as he rose +below us, over whose head I fired a shot. Where the other got to I could +not tell. This watchfulness, on our part, however, prevented any further +attempts during the night. + +I was much pleased at the coolness of my servant, as well as his +consideration; and relieving him from his post, desired Hopkinson to take +it. I have no doubt that the approach of the natives, in the first +instance, was made with a view to draw us off from the camp, while some +others might rob the boat. If so, it was a good manoeuvre, and might have +succeeded. + +NATIVES DESERT THEIR WEAPONS--INGENUOUS CONDUCT OF A NATIVE. + +In the morning, we found the natives had left all their ponderous spears +at their fires, which were broken up and burnt. We were surprised to find +that our friend had left every thing in like manner behind him--his +spears, his nets, and his tomahawk; but as he had kept so wholly aloof +from the other blacks, I thought it highly improbable that he had joined +them, and the men were of opinion that he had retreated across the plain +into the wood. On looking in that direction we observed some smoke rising +among the trees at a little distance from the outskirts of the plain, and +under an impression that I should find the native at the fire with his +family, I took his spears and tomahawk, and walked across the plain, +unattended into the wood. I had not entered it more than fifty yards when +I saw a group of four natives, sitting round a small fire. One of them, +as I approached, rose up and met me, and in him I recognised the man for +whom I was seeking. When near enough, I stuck the spears upright into the +ground. The poor man stood thunderstruck; he spoke not, he moved not, +neither did he raise his eyes from the ground. I had kept the tomahawk out +of his sight, but I now produced and offered it to him. He gave a short +exclamation as his eyes caught sight of it, but he remained otherwise +silent before me, and refused to grasp the tomahawk, which accordingly +fell to the ground. I had evidently excited the man's feelings, but it is +difficult to say how he was affected. His manner indicated shame and +surprise, and the sequel will prove that both these feelings must have +possessed him. While we were thus standing together, his two wives came +up, to whom, after pointing to the spears and tomahawk, he said something, +without, however, looking at me; and they both instantly burst into tears +and wept aloud. I was really embarrassed during so unexpected a scene, +and to break it, invited the native to the camp, but I motioned with my +hand, as I had not my gun with me, that I would shoot any other of the +blacks who followed me. He distinctly understood my meaning, and intimated +as distinctly to me that they should not follow us; nor did they. We were +never again molested by them. + +I left him then, and, returning to the camp, told M'Leay my adventure, +with which he was highly delighted. My object is this procedure was to +convince the natives, generally, that we came not among them to injure or +to molest them, as well as to impress them with an idea of our superior +intelligence; and I am led to indulge the hope that I succeeded. Certain +it is, that an act of justice or of lenity has frequently, if well timed, +more weight than the utmost stretch of severity. With savages, more +particularly, to exhibit any fear, distrust, or irresolution, will +inevitably prove injurious. + +But although these adventures were happily not attended with bloodshed, +they harassed the men much; and our camp for near a week was more like an +outpost picquet than any thing else. This, however, terminated all +attempts on the part of the natives. From henceforth none of them followed +us on our route. + +BREACH THE DEPOT. + +At noon, I stopped about a mile short of the depot to take sights. After +dinner we pulled on, the men looking earnestly out for their comrades whom +they had left there, but none appeared. My little arbour, in which I had +written my letters, was destroyed, and the bank on which out tents had +stood was wholly deserted. We landed, however, and it was a satisfaction +to me to see the homeward track of the drays. The men were sadly +disappointed, and poor Clayton, who had anticipated a plentiful meal, was +completely chop fallen. M'Leay and I comforted them daily with the hopes +of meeting the drays, which I did not think improbable. + +Thus, it will appear, that we regained the place from which we started in +seventy-seven days, during which, we could not have pulled less than 2000 +miles. It is not for me, however, to make any comment, either on the +dangers to which we were occasionally exposed, or the toil and privations +we continually experienced in the course of this expedition. My duty is, +simply to give a plain narrative of facts, which I have done with +fidelity, and with as much accuracy as circumstances would permit. Had we +found Robert Harris at the depot, I should have considered it unnecessary +to trespass longer on the patient reader, but as our return to that post +did not relieve us from our difficulties, it remains for me to carry on +the narrative of our proceedings to the time when we reached the upper +branches of the Morumbidgee. + +DISAPPOINTED OF SUPPLIES. + +The hopes that had buoyed up the spirits of the men, ceased to operate as +soon as they were discovered to have been ill founded. The most gloomy +ideas took possession of their minds, and they fancied that we had been +neglected, and that Harris had remained in Sydney. It was to no purpose +that I explained to them that my instructions did not bind Harris to come +beyond Pondebadgery, and that I was confident he was then encamped upon +that plain. + +We had found the intricate navigation of the Morumbidgee infinitely more +distressing than the hard pulling up the open reaches of the Murray, for +we were obliged to haul the boat up between numberless trunks of trees, +an operation that exhausted the men much more than rowing. The river had +fallen below its former level, and rocks and logs were now exposed above +the water, over many of which the boat's keel must have grazed, as we +passed down with the current. I really shuddered frequently, at seeing +these complicated dangers, and I was at a loss to conceive how we could +have escaped them. The planks of our boat were so thin that if she had +struck forcibly against any one branch of the hundreds she must have +grazed, she would inevitably have been rent asunder from stem to stern. + +COMPLETE EXHAUSTION OF THE MEN--ONE LOSES HIS SENSES. + +The day after we passed the depot, on our return, we began to experience +the effects of the rains that had fallen in the mountains. The Morumbidgee +rose upon us six feet in one night, and poured along its turbid waters +with proportionate violence. For seventeen days we pulled against them +with determined perseverance, but human efforts, under privations such as +ours, tend to weaken themselves, and thus it was that the men began to +exhibit the effects of severe and unremitting toil. Our daily journeys +were short, and the head we made against the stream but trifling. The men +lost the proper and muscular jerk with which they once made the waters +foam and the oars bend. Their whole bodies swung with an awkward and +laboured motion. Their arms appeared to be nerveless; their faces became +haggard, their persons emaciated, their spirits wholly sunk; nature was so +completely overcome, that from mere exhaustion they frequently fell asleep +during their painful and almost ceaseless exertions. It grieved me to the +heart to see them in such a state at the close of so perilous a service, +and I began to reproach Robert Harris that he did not move down the river +to meet us; but, in fact, he was not to blame. I became captious, and +found fault where there was no occasion, and lost the equilibrium of my +temper in contemplating the condition of my companions. No murmur, +however, escaped them, nor did a complaint reach me, that was intended to +indicate that they had done all they could do. I frequently heard them in +their tent, when they thought I had dropped asleep, complaining of severe +pains and of great exhaustion. "I must tell the captain, tomorrow," some +of them would say, "that I can pull no more." To-marrow came, and they +pulled on, as if reluctant to yield to circumstances. Macnamee at length +lost his senses. We first observed this from his incoherent conversation, +but eventually from manner. He related the most extraordinary tales, and +fidgeted about eternally while in the boat. I felt it necessary, +therefore, to relieve him from the oars. + +Amidst these distresses, M'Leay preserved his good humour, and endeavoured +to lighten the task, and to cheer the men as much as possible. His +presence at this time was a source of great comfort to me. The uniform +kindness with which he had treated his companions, gave him an influence +over them now, and it was exerted with the happiest effect. + +DESPATCH TWO MEN TO PONDEBADGERY. + +On the 8th and 9th of April we had heavy rain, but there was no respite +for us. Our provisions were nearly consumed, and would have been wholly +exhausted, if we had not been so fortunate as to kill several swans. On +the 11th, we gained our camp opposite to Hamilton's Plains, after a day of +severe exertion. Our tents were pitched upon the old ground, and the marks +of our cattle were around us. In the evening, the men went out with their +guns, and M'Leay and I walked to the rear of the camp, to consult +undisturbed as to the moat prudent measures to be adopted, under our +embarrassing circumstances. The men were completely sunk. We were still +between eighty and ninety miles from Pondebadgery, in a direct line, and +nearly treble that distance by water. The task was greater than we could +perform, and our provisions were insufficient. In this extremity I thought +it best to save the men the mortification of yielding, by abandoning the +boat; and on further consideration, I determined on sending Hopkinson and +Mulholland, whose devotion, intelligence, and indefatigable spirits, +I well knew, forward to the plain. + +The joy this intimation spread was universal, Both Hopkinson and +Mulholland readily undertook the journey, and I, accordingly, prepared +orders for them to start by the earliest dawn. It was not without a +feeling of sorrow that I witnessed the departure of these two men, to +encounter a fatiguing march. I had no fears as to their gaining the plain, +if their reduced state would permit them. On the other hand, I hoped they +would fall in with our old friend the black, or that they would meet the +drays; and I could not but admire the spirit and energy they both +displayed upon the occasion. Their behaviour throughout had been such as +to awaken in my breast a feeling of the highest approbation. Their +conduct, indeed, exceeded all praise, nor did they hesitate one moment +when I called upon them to undertake this last trying duty, after such +continued exertion. I am sure the reader will forgive me for bringing +under his notice the generous efforts of these two men; by me it can never +be forgotten. + +ABANDON AND BURN THE BOAT. + +Six days had passed since their departure; we remaining encamped. M'Leay +and myself had made some short excursions, but without any result worthy +of notice. A group of sand-hills rose in the midst of the alluvial +deposits, about a quarter of a mile from the tents, that were covered with +coarse grasses and banksias. We shot several intertropical birds feeding +in the latter, and sucking the honey from their flowers. I had, in the +mean time, directed Clayton to make some plant cases of the upper planks +of the boat, and then to set fire to her, for she was wholly +unserviceable, and I felt a reluctance to leave her like a neglected log +on the water. The last ounce of flour had been served out to the men, and +the whole of it was consumed on the sixth day from that on which we had +abandoned the boat. I had calculated on seeing Hopkinson again in eight +days, but as the morrow would see us without food, I thought, as the men +had had a little rest it would be better to advance towards relief than to +await its arrival. + +MEN RETURN WITH SUPPLIES. + +On the evening of the 18th, therefore, we buried our specimens and other +stores, intending to break up the camp in the morning. A singular bird, +which invariably passed it at an hour after sunset, and which, from its +heavy flight, appeared to be of unusual size so attracted my notice, that +in the evening M'Leay and I crossed the river, in hope to get a shot at +it. We had, however, hardly landed on the other side, when a loud shout +called us back to witness the return of our comrades. + +They were both of them in a state that beggars description. Their knees +and ankles were dreadfully swollen, and their limbs so painful, that as +soon as they arrived in the camp they sunk under their efforts, but they +met us with smiling countenances, and expressed their satisfaction at +having arrived so seasonably to our relief. They had, as I had foreseen, +found Robert Harris on the plain, which they reached on the evening of the +third day. They had started early the next morning on their return with +such supplies as they thought we might immediately want. Poor Macnamee +had in a great measure recovered, but for same days he was sullen and +silent: sight of the drays gave him uncommon satisfaction. Clayton gorged +himself; but M'Leay, myself and Fraser could not at first relish the meat +that was placed before us. + +It was determined to give the bullocks a day of rest, and I availed myself +of the serviceable state of the horses to visit some hills about eighteen +miles to the northward. I was anxious to gain a view of the distant +country to the N.W., and to ascertain the geological character of the +hills themselves. M'Leay, Fraser, and myself left the camp early in the +morning of the 19th, on our way to them. Crossing the sand hills, we +likewise passed a creek, and, from the flooded or alluvial tracks, got on +an elevated sandy country, in which we found a beautiful grevillia. From +this we passed a barren ridge of quartz-formation, terminating in open box +forest. From it we descended and traversed a plain that must, at some +periods, be almost impassable. It was covered with acacia pendula, and the +soil was a red earth, bare of vegetation in many places. At its extremity +we came to some stony ridges, and, descending their northern side, gained +the base of the hills. They were more extensive than they appeared to be +from our camp; and were about six hundred feet in height, and composed of +a conglomerate rock. They were extremely barren, nor did the aspect of the +country seem to indicate a favourable change. I was enabled, however, to +connect my line of route with the more distant hills between the +Morumbidgee and the Lachlan. We returned to the camp at midnight. + +MEET WITH THE DRAYS. + +On the following morning we left our station before Hamilton's Plains. +We reached Pondebadgery on the 28th, and found Robert Harris, with a +plentiful supply of provisions. He had everything extremely regular, and +had been anxiously expecting our return, of which he at length wholly +despaired. He had been at the plain two months, and intended to have moved +down the river immediately, had we not made our appearance when we did. + +I had sent M'Leay forward on the 20th with letters to the Governor, whose +anxiety was great on our account. I remained for a fortnight on the plain +to restore the men, but Hopkinson had so much over-exerted himself that it +was with difficulty he crawled along. + +In my despatches to the Governor, from the depot, I had suggested the +policy of distributing some blankets and other presents to the natives on +the Morumbidgee, in order to reward those who had been useful to our +party, and in the hope of proving beneficial to settlers in that distant +part of the colony. His Excellency was kind enough to accede to my +request, and I found ample means for these purposes among the stores that +Harris brought from Sydney. + +We left Pondebadgery Plain early on the 5th of May, and reached Guise's +Station late in the afternoon. We gained Yass Plains on the 12th, having +struck through the mountain passes by a direct line, instead of returning +by our old route near Underaliga. As the party was crossing the plains I +rode to see Mr. O'Brien, but did not find him at home. + +INSTANCE OF CANNIBALISM. + +While waiting at his hut, one of the stockmen pointed out two blacks to me +at a little distance from us. The one was standing, the other sitting. +"That fellow, sir," said he, "who is sitting down, killed his infant child +last night by knocking its head against a stone, after which he threw it +on the fire and then devoured it." I was quite horror struck, and could +scarcely believe such a story. I therefore went up to the man and +questioned him as to the fact, as well as I could. He did not attempt to +deny it, but slunk away in evident consciousness. I then questioned the +other that remained, whose excuse for his friend was that the child was +sick and would never have grown up, adding he himself did not PELTER (eat) +any of it. + +Many of my readers may probably doubt this horrid occurrence having taken +place, as I have not mentioned any corroborating circumstances. I am +myself, however, as firmly persuaded of the truth of what I have stated as +if I had seen the savage commit the act; for I talked to his companion who +did see him, and who described to me the manner in which he killed the +child. Be it as it may, the very mention of such a thing among these +people goes to prove that they are capable of such an enormity. + +We left Yass Plains on the 14th of May, and reached Sydney by easy stages +on the 25th, after an absence of nearly six months. + + +* * * * * + + +CONCLUDING REMARKS. + + +To most of my readers, the foregoing narrative will appear little else +than a succession of adventures. Whilst the expedition was toiling down +the rivers, no rich country opened upon the view to reward or to cheer the +perseverance of those who composed it, and when, at length, the land of +promise lay smiling before them, their strength and their means were too +much exhausted to allow of their commencing an examination, of the result +of which there could be but little doubt. The expedition returned to +Sydney, without any splendid discovery to gild its proceedings; and the +labours and dangers it had encountered were considered as nothing more +than ordinary occurrences. If I myself had entertained hopes that my +researches would have benefited the colony, I was wholly disappointed. +There is a barren tract of country lying to the westward of the Blue +Mountains that will ever divide the eastern coast from the more central +parts of Australia, as completely as if seas actually rolled between them. + +GEOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. + +In a geographical point of view, however, nothing could have been more +satisfactory, excepting an absolute knowledge of the country to the +northward between the Murray and the Darling, than the results of the +expedition. I have in its proper place stated, as fairly as I could, my +reasons for supposing the principal junction (which I consequently left +without a name) to be the Darling of my former journey, as well as the +various arguments that bore against such a conclusion. + +Of course, where there is so much room for doubt, opinions will be +various. I shall merely review the subject, in order to connect subsequent +events with my previous observations, and to give the reader a full idea +of that which struck me to be the case on a close and anxious +investigation of the country from mountain to lowland. I returned from the +Macquarie with doubts on my mind as to the ultimate direction to which the +waters of the Darling river might ultimately flow; for, with regard to +every other point, the question was, I considered, wholly decided. But, +with regard to that singular stream, I was, from the little knowledge I +had obtained, puzzled as to its actual course; and I thought it as likely +that it might turn into the heart of the interior, as that it would make +to the south. It had not, however, escaped my notice, that the northern +rivers turned more abruptly southward (after gaining a certain distance +from the base of the ranges) than the more southern streams: near the +junction of the Castlereagh with the Darling especially, the number of +large creeks joining the first river from the north, led me to conclude +that there was at that particular spot a rapid fall of country to the +south. + +The first thing that strengthened in my mind this half-formed opinion, was +the fall of the Lachlan into the Morumbidgee. I had been told that +Australia was a basin; that an unbroken range of hills lined its coasts, +the internal rivers of which fell into its centre, and contributed to the +formation of an inland sea; I was not therefore prepared to find a break +in the chain--a gap as it were for the escape of these waters to the +coast. + +Subsequently to our entrance into the Murray, the remarkable efforts of +that river to maintain a southerly course were observed even by the men, +and the singular runs it made to the south, when unchecked by high lands, +clearly evinced its natural tendency to flow in that direction. + +Had we found ourselves at an elevation above the bed of the Darling when +we reached the junction of the principal tributary with the Murray, I +should still have had doubts on my mind as to the identity of that +tributary with the first-mentioned river; but considering the trifling +elevation of the Darling above the sea, and that the junction was still +less elevated above it, I cannot bring myself to believe that the former +alters its course. It is not, however, on this simple geographical +principle that I have built my conclusions; other corroborative +circumstances have tended also to confirm in my mind the opinion I have +already given, not only of the comparatively recent appearance above +the ocean of the level country over which I had passed, but that the true +dip of the interior is from north to south. + +In support of the first of these conclusions, it would appear that a +current of water must have swept the vast accumulation of shells, forming +the great fossil bank through which the Murray passes from the northern +extremity of the continent, to deposit them where they are; and it would +further appear from the gradual rise of this bed, on an inclined plain +from N.N.E. to S.S.W., that it must in the first instance, have swept +along the base of the ranges, but ultimately turned into the above +direction by the convexity of the mountains at the S.E. angle of the +coast. From the circumstance, moreover, of the summit of the fossil +formation being in places covered with oyster shells, the fact of the +whole mass having been under water is indisputable, and leads us naturally +to the conclusion that the depressed interior beyond it must have been +under water at the same time. + +It was proved by barometrical admeasurement, that the cataract of the +Macquarie was 680 feet above the level of the sea, and, in like manner, +it was found that the depot of Mr. Oxley, on the Lachlan, was only 500, +there being a still greater fall of country beyond these two points. +The maximum height of the fossil bank was 300 feet; and if we suppose a +line to be drawn from its top to the eastward, that line would pass over +the marshes of the two rivers, and would cut them at a point below which +they both gradually diminish. Hence I am brought to conclude that in +former times the sea washed the western base of the dividing ranges, at or +near the two points whose respective elevations I have given; and that +when the mass of land now lying waste and unproductive, became exposed, +the rivers, which until then had pursued a regular course to the ocean, +having no channel beyond their original termination, overflowed the almost +level country into which they now fall; or, filling some extensive +concavity, have contributed, by successive depositions, to the formation +of those marshes of which so much has been said. I regret extremely, that +my defective vision prevents me giving a slight sketch to elucidate +whet I fear I have, in words, perhaps, failed in making sufficiently +intelligible. + +GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. + +Now, as we know not by what means the changes that have taken place on the +earth's surface have been effected, and can only reason on them from +analogy, it is to be feared we shall never arrive at any clear +demonstration of the truth of our surmises with regard to geographical +changes, whether extensive or local, since the causes which produced them +will necessarily have ceased to operate. We cannot refer to the dates when +they took place, as we may do in regard to the eruptions of a volcano, +or the appearance or disappearance of an island. Such events are of minor +importance. Those mighty changes to which I would be understood to allude, +can hardly be laid to the account of chemical agency. We can easily +comprehend how subterranean fires will occasionally burst forth, and can +thus satisfactorily account for earthquake or volcano; but it is not to +any clashing of properties, or to any visible causes, that the changes of +which I speak can be attributed. They appear rather as the consequences of +direct agency, of an invisible power, not as the occasional and fretful +workings of nature herself. The marks of that awful catastrophe which so +nearly extinguished the human race, are every day becoming more and more +visible as geological research proceeds. Thus, in the limestone caves at +Wellington Valley, the remains of fossils and exuviae, show that their +depths were penetrated by the same searching element that poured into the +caverns of Kirkdale and other places. They are as gleams of sunshine +falling upon the pages of that sublime and splendid volume, in which the +history of the deluge is alone to be found; as if the Almighty intended +that His word should stand single and unsupported before mankind: and when +we consider that such corroborative testimonies of his wrath, as those I +have noticed, were in all probability wholly unknown to those who wrote +that sacred book, the discovery of the remains of a past world, must +strike those under whose knowledge it may fall with the truth of that +awful event, which language has vainly endeavoured to describe and +painters to represent. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + + +Environs of the lake Alexandrina--Appointment of Capt. Barker to make a +further survey of the coast near Encounter Bay--Narrative of his +proceedings--Mount Lofty, Mount Barker, and beautiful country adjacent-- +Australian salmon--Survey of the coast--Outlet of lake to the sea-- +Circumstances that led to the slaughter of Capt. Barker by the natives-- +His character--Features of this part of the country and capabilities of +its coasts--Its adaptation for colonization--Suggestions for the +furtherance of future Expeditions. + +ENVIRONS OF THE LAKE ALEXANDRINA. + +The foregoing narrative will have given the reader some idea of the state +in which the last expedition reached the bottom of that extensive and +magnificent basin which receives the waters of the Murray. The men were, +indeed, so exhausted, in strength, and their provisions so much reduced by +the time they gained the coast, that I doubted much, whether either would +hold out to such place as we might hope for relief. Yet, reduced as the +whole of us were from previous exertion, beset as our homeward path was by +difficulty and danger, and involved as our eventual safety was in +obscurity and doubt, I could not but deplore the necessity that obliged me +to re-cross the Lake Alexandrina (as I had named it in honour of the heir +apparent to the British crown), and to relinquish the examination of its +western shores. We were borne over its ruffled and agitated surface with +such rapidity, that I had scarcely time to view it as we passed; but, +cursory as my glance was, I could but but think I was leaving behind me +the fullest reward of our toil, in a country that would ultimately render +our discoveries valuable, and benefit the colony for whose interests we +were engaged. Hurried, I would repeat, as my view of it was, my eye never +fell on a country of more promising aspect, or of more favourable +position, than that which occupies the space between the lake and the +ranges of St. Vincent's Gulf, and, continuing northerly from Mount Barker, +stretches away, without any visible boundary. + +It appeared to me that, unless nature had deviated from her usual laws, +this tract of country could not but be fertile, situated as it was to +receive the mountain deposits on the one hand, and those of the lake upon +the other. + +FURTHER EXAMINATION OF THE COAST. + +In my report to the Colonial Government, however, I did not feel myself +justified in stating, to their full extent, opinions that were founded on +probability and conjecture alone. But, although I was guarded in this +particular, I strongly recommended a further examination of the coast, +from the most eastern point of Encounter Bay, to the head St. Vincent's +Gulf, to ascertain if any other than the known channel existed among the +sand-hills of the former, or if, as I had every reason to hope from the +great extent of water to the N.W., there was a practicable communication +with the lake from the other; and I ventured to predict, that a closer +survey of the interjacent country, would be attended with the most +beneficial results; nor have I a doubt that the promontory of Cape Jervis +would ere this have been settled, had Captain Barker lived to complete his +official reports. + +CAPT. BARKER'S SURVEY. + +The governor, General Darling, whose multifarious duties might well have +excused him from paying attention to distant objects, hesitated not a +moment when he thought the interests of the colony, whose welfare he so +zealously promoted, appeared to be concerned; and he determined to avail +himself of the services of Captain Collet Barker, of the 39th regiment, +who was about to be recalled from King George's Sound, in order to satisfy +himself as to the correctness of my views. + +Captain Barker had not long before been removed from Port Raffles, on the +northern coast, where he had had much intercourse with the natives, and +had frequently trusted himself wholly in their hands. It was not, however, +merely on account of his conciliating manners, and knowledge of the temper +and habits of the natives, that he was particularly fitted for the duty +upon which it was the governor's pleasure to employ him. He was, in +addition, a man of great energy of character, and of much and various +information. + +Orders having reached Sydney, directing the establishment belonging to +New South Wales to be withdrawn, prior to the occupation of King George's +Sound by the government of Western Australia, the ISABELLA schooner was +sent to receive the troops and prisoners on board; and Captain Barker was +directed, as soon as he should have handed over the settlement to Captain +Stirling, to proceed to Cape Jervis from which point it was thought he +could best carry on a survey not only of the coast but also of the +interior. + +This excellent and zealous officer sailed from King George's Sound, on the +10th of April, 1831, and arrived off Cape Jervis on the 13th. He was +attended by Doctor Davies, one of the assistant surgeons of his regiment, +and by Mr. Kent, of the Commissariat. It is to the latter gentleman that +the public are indebted for the greater part of the following details; +he having attended Captain Barker closely during the whole of this short +but disastrous excursion, and made notes as copious as they are +interesting. At the time the ISABELLA arrived off Cape Jervis, the weather +was clear and favourable. Captain Barker consequently stood into +St. Vincent's Gulf, keeping, as near as practicable, to the eastern shore, +in soundings that varied from six to ten fathoms, upon sand and mud. +His immediate object was to ascertain if there was any communication with +the lake Alexandrina from the gulf. He ascended to lat. 34 degrees +40 minutes where he fully satisfied himself that no channel did exist +between them. He found, however, that the ranges behind Cape Jervis +terminated abruptly at Mount Lofty, in lat. 34 degrees 56 minutes, and, +that a flat and wooded country succeeded to the N. and N.E. The shore of +the gulf tended more to the N.N.W., and mud flats and mangrove swamps +prevailed along it. + +INVITING COUNTRY--MOUNT LOFTY. + +Mr. Kent informs me, that they landed for the first time on the 15th, but +that they returned almost immediately to the vessel. On the 17th, Captain +Barker again landed, with the intention of remaining on shore for two or +three days. He was accompanied by Mr. Kent, his servant Mills, and two +soldiers. The boat went to the place at which they had before landed, as +they thought they had discovered a small river with a bar entrance. They +crossed the bar, and ascertained that it was a narrow inlet, of four miles +in length, that terminated at the base of the ranges. The party were quite +delighted with the aspect of the country on either side of the inlet, +and with the bold and romantic scenery behind them. The former bore the +appearance of natural meadows, lightly timbered, and covered with a +variety of grasses. The soil was observed to be a rich, fat, chocolate +coloured earth, probably the decomposition of the deep blue limestone, +that showed itself along the coast hereabouts. On the other hand, a rocky +glen made a cleft in the ranges at the head of the inlet; and they were +supplied with abundance of fresh water which remained in the deeper pools +that had been filled by the torrents during late rains. The whole +neighbourhood was so inviting that the party slept at the head of the +inlet. + +MOUNT LOFTY AND ITS ENVIRONS. + +In the morning, Captain Barker proceeded to ascend Mount Lofty, +accompanied by Mr. Kent and his servant, leaving the two soldiers at the +bivouac, at which he directed them to remain until his return. Mr. Kent +says they kept the ridge all the way, and rose above the sea by a gradual +ascent. The rock-formation of the lower ranges appeared to be an +argillaceous schist; the sides and summit of the ranges were covered with +verdure, and the trees upon them were of more than ordinary size. The view +to the eastward was shut out by other ranges, parallel to those on which +they were; below them to the westward, the same pleasing kind of country +that flanked the inlet still continued. + +MOUNT BARKER. + +In the course of the day they passed round the head of a deep ravine, +whose smooth and grassy sides presented a beautiful appearance. The party +stood 600 feet above the bed of a small rivulet that occupied the bottom +of the ravine. In some places huge blocks of granite interrupted its +course, in others the waters had worn the rock smooth. The polish of these +rocks was quite beautiful, and the veins of red and white quartz which +traversed them, looked like mosaic work. They did not gain the top of +Mount Lofty, but slept a few miles beyond the ravine. In the morning +they continued their journey, and, crossing Mount Lofty, descended +northerly, to a point from which the range bent away a little to the +N.N.E., and then terminated. The view from this point was much more +extensive than that from Mount Lofty itself. They overlooked a great part +of the gulf, and could distinctly see the mountains at the head of it to +the N.N.W. To the N.W. there was a considerable indentation in the coast, +which had escaped Captain Barker's notice when examining it. A mountain, +very similar to Mount Lofty, bore due east of them, and appeared to be the +termination of its range. They were separated by a valley of about ten +miles in width, the appearance of which was not favourable. Mr. Kent +states to me, that Capt. Barker observed at the time that he thought it +probable I had mistaken this hill for Mount Lofty, since it shut out the +view of the lake from him, and therefore he naturally concluded, I could +not have seen Mount Lofty. I can readily imagine such an error to have +been made by me, more especially as I remember that at the time I was +taking bearings in the lake, I thought Captain Flinders had not given +Mount Lofty, as I then conceived it to be, its proper position in +longitude. Both hills are in the same parallel of latitude. The mistake on +my part is obvious. I have corrected it in the charts, and have availed +myself of the opportunity thus afforded me of perpetuating, as far as I +can, the name of an inestimable companion in Captain Barker himself + +Immediately below the point on which they stood, Mr. Kent says, a low +undulating country extended to the northward, as far as he could see. +It was partly open, and partly wooded; and was every where covered with +verdure. It continued round to the eastward, and apparently ran down +southerly, at the opposite base of the mount Barker Range. I think there +can be but little doubt that my view from the S.E., that is, from the +lake, extended over the same or a part of the same country. Captain Barker +again slept on the summit of the range, near a large basin that looked +like the mouth of a crater, in which huge fragments of rocks made a scene +of the utmost confusion. These rocks were a coarse grey granite, of which +the higher parts and northern termination of the Mount Lofty range are +evidently formed; for Mr. Kent remarks that it superseded the schistose +formation at the ravine we have noticed--and that, subsequently, the sides +of the hills became more broken, and valleys, or gullies, more properly +speaking, very numerous. Captain Barker estimated the height of Mount +Lofty above the sea at 2,400 feet, and the distance of its summit from the +coast at eleven miles. Mr. Kent says they were surprised at the size of +the trees on the immediate brow of it; they measured one and found it to +be 43 feet in girth. Indeed, he adds, vegetation did not appear to have +suffered either from its elevated position, or from any prevailing wind. +Eucalypti were the general timber on the ranges; one species of which, +resembling strongly the black butted-gum, was remarkable for a scent +peculiar to its bark. + +AUSTRALIAN SALMON. + +The party rejoined the soldiers on the 21st, and enjoyed the supply of +fish which they had provided for them. The soldiers had amused themselves +by fishing during Captain Barker's absence, and had been abundantly +successful. Among others they had taken a kind of salmon, which, though +inferior in size, resembled in shape, in taste, and in the colour of its +flesh, the salmon of Europe. I fancied that a fish which I observed with +extremely glittering scales, in the mouth of a seal, when myself on the +coast, must have been of this kind; and I have no doubt that the lake is +periodically visited by salmon, and that these fish retain their habits of +entering fresh water at particular seasons, also in the southern +hemisphere. + +Immediately behind Cape Jervis, there is a small bay, in which according +to the information of the sealers who frequent Kangaroo Island, there is +good and safe anchorage for seven months in the year, that is to say, +during the prevalence of the E. and N.E. winds. + +SURVEY OF THE COAST. + +Captain Barker landed on the 21st on this rocky point at the northern +extremity of this bay. He had, however, previously to this, examined the +indentation in the coast which he had observed from Mount Lofty, and had +ascertained that it was nothing more than an inlet; a spit of sand, +projecting from the shore at right angles with it, concealed the month of +the inlet. They took the boat to examine this point, and carried six +fathoms soundings round the head of the spit to the mouth of the inlet, +when it shoaled to two fathoms, and the landing was observed to be bad, +by reason of mangrove swamps on either side of it. Mr. Kent, I think, told +me that this inlet was from ten to twelve miles long. Can it be that a +current setting out of it at times, has thrown up the sand-bank that +protects its mouth, and that trees, or any other obstacle, have hidden its +further prolongation from Captain Barker's notice? I have little hope that +such is the case, but the remark is not an idle one. + +BEAUTIFUL VALLEYS. + +Between this inlet and the one formerly mentioned, a small and clear +stream was discovered, to which Captain Barker kindly gave my name. On +landing, the party, which consisted of the same persons as the former one, +found themselves in a valley, which opened direct upon the bay. It was +confined to the north from the chief range by a lateral ridge, that +gradually declined towards and terminated at, the rocky point on which +they had landed. The other side of the valley was formed of a continuation +of the main range, which also gradually declined to the south, and +appeared to be connected with the hills at the extremity of the cape. +The valley was from nine to ten miles in length, and from three to four in +breadth. In crossing it, they ascertained that the lagoon from which the +schooner had obtained a supply of water, was filled by a watercourse that +came down its centre. The soil in the valley was rich, but stony in some +parts. There was an abundance of pasture over the whole, from amongst +which they started numerous kangaroos. The scenery towards the ranges was +beautiful and romantic, and the general appearance of the country such as +to delight the whole party. + +Preserving a due east course, Captain Barker passed over the opposite +range of hills, and descended almost immediately into a second valley that +continued to the southwards. Its soil was poor and stony, and it was +covered with low scrub. Crossing it, they ascended the opposite range, +from the summit of which they had a view of Encounter Bay. An extensive +flat stretched from beneath them to the eastward, and was backed, in the +distance, by sand hummocks, and low wooded hills. The extreme right of the +flat rested upon the coast, at a rocky point near which there were two or +three islands. From the left a beautiful valley opened upon it. A strong +and clear rivulet from this valley traversed the flat obliquely, and fell +into the sea at the rocky point, or a little to the southward of it. +The hills forming the opposite side of the valley had already terminated. +Captain Barker, therefore, ascended to higher ground, and, at length, +obtained a view of the Lake Alexandrina, and the channel of its +communication with the sea to the N.E. He now descended to the flat, and +frequently expressed his anxious wish to Mr. Kent that I had been one of +their number to enjoy the beauty of the scenery around them, and to +participate in their labours. Had fate so ordained it, it is possible the +melancholy tragedy that soon after occurred might have been averted. + +OUTLET OF LAKE TO THE SEA. + +At the termination of the flat they found themselves upon the banks of the +channel, and close to the sand hillock under which my tents had been +pitched. From this point they proceeded along the line of sand-hills to +the outlet; from which it would appear that Kangaroo Island is not +visible, but that the distant point which I mistook for it was the S.E. +angle of Cape Jervis. I have remarked, in describing that part of the +coast, that there is a sand-hill to the eastward of the inlet, under which +the tide runs strong, and the water is deep. Captain Barker judged the +breadth of the channel to be a quarter of a mile, and he expressed a +desire to swim across it to the sand-hill to take bearings, and to +ascertain the nature of the strand beyond it to the eastward. + +It unfortunately happened, that he was the only one of the party who could +swim well, in consequence of which his people remonstrated with him on the +danger of making the attempt unattended. Notwithstanding, however, that +he was seriously indisposed, he stripped, and after Mr. Kent had fastened +his compass on his head for him, he plunged into the water, and with +difficulty gained the opposite side; to effect which took him nine minutes +and fifty-eight seconds. His anxious comrades saw him ascend the hillock, +and take several bearings; he then descended the farther side, and was +never seen by them again. + +CIRCUMSTANCES ATTENDING THE LOSS OF CAPTAIN BARKER. + +For a considerable time Mr. Kent remained stationary, in momentary +expectation of his return; but at length, taking the two soldiers with +him, he proceeded along the shore in search of wood for a fire. At about +a quarter of a mile, the soldiers stopped and expressed their wish to +return, as their minds misgave them, and they feared that Captain Barker +had met with some accident. While conversing, they heard a distant shout, +or cry, which Mr. Kent thought resembled the call of the natives, but +which the soldiers positively declared to be the voice of a white man. +On their return to their companions, they asked if any sounds had caught +their ears, to which they replied in the negative. The wind was blowing +from the E.S.E., in which direction Captain Barker had gone; and, to me, +the fact of the nearer party not having heard that which must have been +his cries for assistance, is satisfactorily accounted for, as, being +immediately under the hill, the sounds must have passed over their heads +to be heard more distinctly at the distance at which Mr. Kent and the +soldiers stood. It is more than probable, that while his men were +expressing their anxiety about him, the fearful tragedy was enacting which +it has become my painful task to detail. + +Evening closed in without any signs of Captain Barker's return, or any +circumstance by which Mr. Kent could confirm his fears that he had fallen +into the hands of the natives. For, whether it was that the tribe which +had shown such decided hostility to me when on the coast had not observed +the party, none made their appearance; and if I except two, who crossed +the channel when Mr. Kent was in search of wood, they had neither seen nor +heard any; and Captain Barker's enterprising disposition being well known +to his men, hopes were still entertained that he was safe. A large fire +was kindled, and the party formed a silent and anxious group around it. +Soon after night-fall, however, their attention was roused by the sounds +of the natives, and it was at length discovered, that they had lighted a +chain of small fires between the sand-hill Captain Barker had ascended and +the opposite side of the channel, around which their women were chanting +their melancholy dirge. It struck upon the ears of the listeners with an +ominous thrill, and assured them of the certainty of the irreparable loss +they had sustained. All night did those dismal sounds echo along that +lonely shore, but as morning dawned, they ceased, and Mr. Kent and his +companions were again left in anxiety and doubt. They, at length, thought +it most advisable to proceed to the schooner to advise with Doctor +Davies. They traversed the beach with hasty steps, but did not get on +board till the following day. It was then determined to procure assistance +from the sealers on Kangaroo Island, as the only means by which they could +ascertain their leader's fate, and they accordingly entered American +Harbour. For a certain reward, one of the men agreed to accompany Mr. Kent +to the main with a native woman, to communicate with the tribe that was +supposed to have killed him. They landed at or near the rocky point of +Encounter Bay, where they were joined by two other natives, one of whom +was blind. The woman was sent forward for intelligence, and on her return +gave the following details: + +ACCOUNT OF HIS MURDER. + +It appears that at a very considerable distance from the first sand-hill, +there is another to which Captain Barker must have walked, for the woman +stated that three natives were going to the shore from their tribe, and +that they crossed his tract. Their quick perception immediately told them +it was an unusual impression. They followed upon it, and saw Captain +Barker returning. They hesitated for a long time to approach him, being +fearful of the instrument he carried. At length, however, they closed upon +him. Capt. Barker tried to soothe them, but finding that they were +determined to attack him, he made for the water from which he could not +have been very distant. One of the blacks immediately threw his spear and +struck him in the hip. This did not, however, stop him. He got among the +breakers, when he received the second spear in the shoulder. On this, +turning round, he received a third full in the breast: with such deadly +precision do these savages cast their weapons. It would appear that the +third spear was already on its flight when Capt. Barker turned, and it is +to be hoped, that it was at once mortal. He fell on his back into the +water. The natives then rushed in, and dragging him out by the legs, +seized their spears, and indicted innumerable wounds upon his body; +after which, they threw it into deep water, and the sea-tide carried it +away. + +HIS CHARACTER. + +Such, we have every reason to believe, was the untimely fate of this +amiable and talented man. It is a melancholy satisfaction to me thus +publicly to record his worth; instrumental, as I cannot but in some +measure consider my last journey to have been in leading to this fatal +catastrophe. Captain Barker was in disposition, as he was in the close +of his life, in many respects similar to Captain Cook. Mild, affable, and +attentive, he had the esteem and regard of every companion, and the +respect of every one under him. Zealous in the discharge of his public +duties, honourable and just in private life; a lover and a follower of +science; indefatigable and dauntless in his pursuits; a steady friend, +an entertaining companion; charitable, kind-hearted, disinterested, +and sincere--the task is equally difficult to find adequate expressions of +praise or of regret. In him the king lost one of his most valuable +officers, and his regiment one of its most efficient members. Beloved as +he was, the news of his loss struck his numerous friends with sincere +grief, but by none was it more severely felt than by the humble individual +who has endeavoured thus feebly to draw his portrait. + +From the same source from which the particulars of his death were +obtained, it was reported that the natives who perpetrated the deed were +influenced by no other motive than curiosity to ascertain if they had +power to kill a white man. But we must be careful in giving credit to +this, for it is much more probable that the cruelties exercised by the +sealers towards the blacks along the south coast, may have instigated the +latter to take vengeance on the innocent as well as on the guilty. It will +be seen, by a reference to the chart, that Captain Barker, by crossing the +channel, threw himself into the very hands of that tribe which had evinced +such determined hostility to myself and my men. He got into the rear of +their strong hold, and was sacrificed to those feelings of suspicion, and +to that desire of revenge, which the savages never lose sight of until +they have been gratified. + +FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY, AND CAPABILITIES OF THE COAST. + +It yet remains for me to state that when Mr. Kent returned to the +schooner, after this irreparable loss, he kept to the south of the place +at which he had crossed the first range with Captain Barker, and travelled +through a valley right across the promontory. He thus discovered that +there was a division in the ranges, through which there was a direct and +level road from the little bay on the northern extremity of which they had +last landed in St. Vincent's Gulf, to the rocky point of Encounter Bay. +The importance of this fact will be better estimated, when it is known +that good anchorage is secured to small vessels inside the island that +lies off the point of Encounter Bay, which is rendered still safer by a +horse shoe reef that forms, as it were, a thick wall to break the swell of +the sea. But this anchorage is not safe for more than five months in the +year. Independently of these points, however, Mr. Kent remarks, that the +spit a little to the north of Mount Lofty would afford good shelter to +minor vessels under its lee. When the nature of the country is taken into +consideration, and the facility of entering that which lies between the +ranges and the Lake Alexandrina, from the south, and of a direct +communication with the lake itself, the want of an extensive harbour will, +in some measure, be compensated for, more especially when it is known that +within four leagues of Cape Jervis, a port little inferior to Port +Jackson, with a safe and broad entrance, exists at Kangaroo Island. The +sealers have given this spot the name of American Harbour. In it, I am +informed, vessels are completely land-locked, and secure from every wind. +Kangaroo Island is not, however, fertile by any means. It abounds in +shallow lakes filled with salt water during high tides, and which, by +evaporation, yield a vast quantity of salt. + +I gathered from the sealers that neither the promontory separating +St. Vincent from Spencer's Gulf, nor the neighbourhood of Port Lincoln, +are other than barren and sandy wastes. They all agree in describing Port +Lincoln itself as a magnificent roadstead, but equally agree as to the +sterility of its shores. It appears, therefore, that the promontory of +Cape Jervis owes its superiority to its natural features; in fact, to the +mountains that occupy its centre, to the debris that has been washed from +them, and to the decomposition of the better description of its rocks. +Such is the case at Illawarra, where the mountains approach the sea; such +indeed is the case every where, at a certain distance from mountain +ranges. + +ADAPTION OF THIS PART OF THE COUNTRY FOR COLONISATION. + +From the above account it would appear that a spot has, at length, been +found upon the south coast of New Holland, to which the colonist might +venture with every prospect of success, and in whose valleys the exile +might hope to build for himself and for his family a peaceful and +prosperous home. All who have ever landed upon the eastern shore of +St. Vincent's Gulf, agree as to the richness of its soil, and the +abundance of its pasture. Indeed, if we cast our eyes upon the chart, and +examine the natural features of the country behind Cape Jervis, we shall +no longer wonder at its differing in soil and fertility from the low and +sandy tracks that generally prevail along the shores of Australia. Without +entering largely into the consideration of the more remote advantages that +would, in all human probability, result from the establishment of a +colony, rather than a penal settlement, at St. Vincent's Gulf, it will be +expedient to glance hastily over the preceding narrative, and, disengaging +it from all extraneous matter, to condense, as much as possible, the +information it contains respecting the country itself; for I have been +unable to introduce any passing remark, lest I should break the thread of +an interesting detail. + +The country immediately behind Cape Jervis may, strictly speaking, be +termed a promontory, bounded to the west by St. Vincent's Gulf, and to the +east by the lake Alexandrina, and the sandy track separating that basin +from the sea. Supposing a line to be drawn from the parallel of 34 degrees +40 minutes to the eastward, it will strike the Murray river about 25 miles +above the head of the lake, and will clear the ranges, of which Mount +Lofty and Mount Barker are the respective terminations. The line will cut +off a space whose greatest breadth will be 55 miles, whose length from +north to south will be 75, and whose surface exceeds 7 millions of acres; +from which if we deduct 2 millions for the unavailable hills, we shall +have 5 millions of acres of land, of rich soil, upon which no scrub +exists, and whose most distant points are accessible, through a level +country on the one hand, and by water on the other. The southern extremity +of the ranges can be turned by that valley through which Mr. Kent returned +to the schooner, after Captain Barker's death. It is certain, therefore, +that this valley not only secures so grand a point, but also presents a +level line of communication from the small bay immediately to the north of +the cape, to the rocky point of Encounter Bay, at both of which places +there is safe anchorage at different periods of the year. + +HINTS FOR FUTURE EXPEDITIONS. + +The only objection that can be raised to the occupation of this spot, is +the want of an available harbour. Yet it admits of great doubt whether the +contiguity of Kangaroo Island to Cape Jervis, (serving as it does to break +the force of the prevailing winds, as also of the heavy swell that would +otherwise roll direct into the bay,) and the fact of its possessing a safe +and commodious harbour, certainly at an available distance, does not in a +great measure remove the objection. Certain it is that no port, with the +exception of that on the shores of which the capital of Australia is +situated, offers half the convenience of this, although it be detached +between three and four leagues from the main. + +On the other hand it would appear, that there is no place from which at +any time the survey of the more central parts of the continent could be so +effectually carried on; for in a country like Australia, where the chief +obstacle to be apprehended in travelling is the want of water, the +facilities afforded by the Murray and its tributaries, are indisputable; +and I have little doubt that the very centre of the continent might be +gained by a judicious and enterprising expedition. Certainly it is most +desirable to ascertain whether the river I have supposed to be the Darling +be really so or not. I have stated my objection to depots, but I think +that if a party commenced its operations upon the Murray from the +junction upwards, and, after ascertaining the fact of its ultimate course, +turned away to the N.W. up one of the tributaries of the Murray, with a +supply of six months' provisions, the results would be of the most +satisfactory kind, and the features of the country be wholly developed. +I cannot, I think, conclude this work better than by expressing a hope, +that the Colonial Government will direct such measures to be adopted as +may be necessary for the extension of our geographical knowledge in +Australia. The facilities of fitting out expeditions in New South Wales, +render the expenses of little moment, when compared with the importance of +the object in view; and although I am labouring under the effects of +former attempts, yet would I willingly give such assistance as I could to +carry such an object into effect. + + + + + +APPENDIX. + + + + +APPENDIX No. I. + + + +GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS FOUND TO THE SOUTH-WEST OF PORT JACKSON. + + +Considering the nature of the country over which the first expedition +travelled, it could hardly have been expected that its geological +specimens would be numerous. It will appear, however, from the following +list of rocks collected during the second expedition, that the geological +formation of the mountains to the S.W. of Port Jackson is as various as +that to the N.W. of it is mountainous. The specimens are described not +according to their natural order, but in the succession in which they +were found, commencing from Yass Plains, and during the subsequent stages +of the journey. + + +Sandstone, Old Red.--Found on various parts of Yass Plains, in contact +with + +Limestone, Transition.--Colour dark grey; composes the bed of the Yass +River, and apparently traverses the sandstone formation. Yass Plains lie +170 miles to the S.W. of Sydney. + +Sandstone, Old Red.-Again succeeds the limestone, and continues to the +N.W. to a considerable distance over a poor and scrubby country, covered +for the most part with a dwarf species of Eucalyptus. + +Granite.--Colour grey; feldspar, black mica, and quartz: succeeds the +sandstone, and continues to the S.W. as far as the Morumbidgee River, +over an open forest country broken into hill and dale. It is generally on +these granite rocks that the best grazing is found. + +Greywacke.--Colour grey, of light hue, or dark, with black specks. +Soft.--Composition of a part of the ranges that form the valley of the +Morumbidgee. + +Serpentine.--Colour green of different shades, striped sulphur yellow; +slaty fracture, soft and greasy to the touch. Forms hills of moderate +elevation, of peculiarly sharp spine, resting on quartz. Composition of +most of the ranges opposite the Doomot River on the Morumbidgee, in +lat. 35 degrees 4 minutes and long. 147 degrees 40 minutes. + +Quartz.--Colour snow-white; formation of the higher ranges on the left +bank of the Morumbidgee, in the same latitude and longitude as above; +showing in large blocks on the sides of the hills. + +Slaty Quartz, with varieties.--Found with the quartz rock, in a state +of decomposition. + +Granite.--Succeeds the serpentine, of light colour; feldspar decomposed; +mica, glittering and silvery white. + +Sandstone, Old Red.--Composition of the more distant ranges on the +Morumbidgee. Forms abrupt precipices over the river flats; of sterile +appearance, and covered with Banksias and scrub. + +Mica Slate.--Colour dark brown, approaching red; mica glittering. +The hills enclosing Pondebadgery Plain at the gorge of the valley of the +Morumbidgee, are composed of this rock. They are succeeded by + +Sandstone.---Which rises abruptly from the river in perpendicular cliffs, +of 145 feet in height. + +Jasper and quartz.--Colour red and white. Forms the slope of the above +sandstone, and may be considered the outermost of the rocks connected with +the Eastern or Blue Mountain Ranges. It will be remembered that jasper and +quartz were likewise found on a plain near the Darling River, precisely +similar to the above, although occurring at so great a distance from each +other. + +Granite.--Light red colour; composition of a small isolated hill, to all +appearance wholly unconnected with the neighbouring ranges. This specimen +is very similar to that found in the bed of New-Year's Creek. + +Brecaia.--Silicious cement, composed of a variety of pebbles. Formation of +the most WESTERLY of the hills between the Lachlan and Macquarie Rivers. +This conglomerate was also found to compose the minor and most westerly of +the elevations of the more northern interior. + +Chrystallised Sulphate of Lime.--Found embedded in the deep alluvial soil +in the banks of the Morumbidgee River, in lat. 34 degrees 30 minutes S., +and long. 144 degrees 55 minutes E. The same substance was found on the +banks of the Darling, in lat. 29 degrees 49 minutes S., and in +long. 145 degrees 18 minutes E. + + +A reference to the chart will show that the Morumbidgee, from the first of +the above positions, may be said to have entered the almost dead level of +the interior. No elevation occurs to the westward for several hundreds of +miles. A coarse grit occasionally traversed the beds of the rivers, and +their lofty banks of clay or marl appear to be based on sandstone and +granitic sand. The latter occurs in slabs of four inches in thickness, +divided by a line of saffron-coloured sand, and seems to have been +subjected to fusion, as if the particles or grains had been cemented +together by fusion. + + +The first decided break that takes place in the level of the interior +occurs upon the right bank of the Murray, a little below the junction of +the Rufus with it. A cliff of from 120 to 130 feet in perpendicular +elevation here flanks the river for about 200 yards, when it recedes from +it, and forms a spacious amphitheatre that is occupied by semicircular +hillocks, that partake of the same character as the cliff itself; the face +of which showed the various substances of which it was composed in +horizontal lines, that if prolonged would cut the same substance in the +hillocks. Based upon a soft white sandstone, a bed of clay formed the +lowest part of the cliff; upon this bed of clay, a bed of chalk reposed; +this chalk was superseded by a thick bed of saponaceous earth, whilst the +summit of the cliff was composed of a bright red sand. Semi-opal and +hydrate of silex were found in the chalk, and some beautiful specimens of +brown menelite were collected from the upper stratum of the cliff. + +A little below this singular place, the country again declines, when a +tertiary fossil formation shows itself, which, rising gradually as an +inclined plain, ultimately attains an elevation of 300 feet. This +formation continues to the very coast, since large masses of the rock were +observed in the channel of communication between the lake and the ocean; +and the hills to the left of the channel were based upon it. This great +bank cannot, therefore, average less than from seventy to ninety miles in +width. At its commencement, it strikingly resembled skulls piled one +on the other, as well in colour as appearance. This effect had been +produced by the constant rippling of water against the rock. The softer +parts had been washed away, and the shells (a bed of Turritella) alone +remained. + +Plate 1, Figures 1, 2, and 3, represent the selenite formation. + +Plate 2, represents a mass of the rock containing numerous kinds of +shells, of which the following are the most conspicuous: + +Cardium +Pectunculus +Corbula +Arca +Conus, and +Others unknown. + + +* * * + + +The following is a list of the fossils collected from various parts of +this formation, from which it is evident that a closer examination would +lead to the discovery of numberless species. + + +TUNICATA. + + +PLATE III. + +FIG.1 Eschara celleporacea. + 2 ------- piriformis. + 3 ------- UNNAMED. + +FIG.4 Cellepora echinata. + 5 --------- escharoides? + 6 Retcpora disticha. + 7 -------- vibicata. + 8 Glauconome rhombifera. + All Tertiary in Westphalia and England. + + +RADIATA + + + 9 Scutella. + 10 Spatangus Hoffmanni--Goldfuss. + Tertiary, in Westphalia. + 11 Echinus. + + +CONCHIFERA--BIVALVED SHELLS. + + + Corbula gallica--Paris basin--Tertiary. + Tellina? + Corbis lamellosa--Tertiary--Paris. + Lucina. + Venus (Cytherea) laevigata--ibid. + ----- ---------- obliqua --ihid. + Venus + Cardium?--fragments. + 12 Nucula--such is found in London clay. + 13 Pecten coarctatus?--Placentia. + ------ varius?--recent. + 14 ------ species unknown. + Two other Pectens also occur. + Ostrea elongata--Deshayes. + 15 Terebratula. + 16 One cast, genus unknown, perhaps a Cardium. + + +MOLUSCA--UNIVALVED SHELLS. + + + Bulla? Plate II., fig. 2. +FIG.17 Natica--small. + 18 ------ large species. + Dentalium? + 19 Trochus. + 20 Turritella. + ---------- in gyps. + 21 Murex. + 22 Buccinum? + 23 Mitra. + 24 ----- very short. + 25 Cypraea. + 26 Conus. + 27 ----- (Plate II., fig. 3.) + 28 Two, unknown, (Also Plate II, fig. 4.) + The above all appear to belong to the newer tertiary formations. + +[Fig.17 to 27--These genera are scarcely ever, and some of them not at +all, found in any but tertiary formations.] + + A block of coarse red granite forms an island in the centre of the + river near the lake, but is nowhere else visible, although it is very + probably the basis of the surrounding country. + + +ROCK FORMATION OF THE COAST RANGE OF ST. VINCENT'S GULF. + + +Primitive Transition Limestone.--Light grey, striped. Altered in +appearance by volcanic action; occurs on the Ranges north of Cape Jervis. + +Granite.--Colour, red; found on the west side of Encounter Bay. + +Brown Spar.--South point of Cape Jervis. + +Sandstone, Old Red.--East coast of St, Vincent's Gulf. + +Limestone, Transition.--Colour, blue. East Coast of St. Vincent's Gulf. +Formation near the first inlet. Continuing to the base of the Ranges. + +Clay Slate.--Composition of the lower part of the Mount Lofty Range. + +Granite.--Fine grained, red; forms the higher parts of the Mount Lofty +Range. + +Quartz, with Tourmaline.--Lower parts of the Mount Lofty Range. + +Limestone Flustra, and their Corallines, probably tertiary.--From the +mouth of the Sturt, on the coast line, nearly abreast of Mount Lofty. + + + + +APPENDIX No. II. + + + +OFFICIAL REPORT TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT. + + +* * * * * + +GOVERNMENT ORDER. + +Colonial Secretary's Office, Sydney, +May 10, 1830. + +His Excellency the Governor has much satisfaction in publishing the +following report of the proceedings of an expedition undertaken for the +purpose of tracing the course of the river "Morumbidgee," and of +ascertaining whether it communicated with the coast forming the southern +boundary of the colony. + +The expedition, which was placed under the direction of Captain Sturt, +of his Majesty's 39th Regiment, commenced its progress down the +"Morumbidgee" on the 7th day of January last, having been occupied +twenty-one days in performing the journey from Sydney. + +On the 14th January they entered a new river running from east to west, +now called the "Murray," into which the "Morumbidgee" flows. + +After pursuing the course of the "Murray" for several days, the expedition +observed another river (supposed to be that which Captain Sturt discovered +on his former expedition), uniting with the "Murray" which they examined +about five miles above the junction. + +The expedition again proceeded down the "Murray," and fell in with another +of its tributaries flowing from the south east, which Captain Sturt has +designated the "Lindesay;" and on the 8th February the "Murray" was +found to enter or form a lake, of from fifty to sixty miles in length, +and from thirty to forty in breadth, lying immediately to the eastward of +gulf St. Vincent, and extending to the southward, to the shore of +"Encounter Bay." + +Thus has Captain Sturt added largely, and in a highly important degree, +to the knowledge previously possessed of the interior. + +His former expedition ascertained the fate of the rivers Macquarie and +Castlereagh, on which occasion he also discovered a river which, there is +every reason to believe, is, in ordinary seasons, of considerable +magnitude. + +Should this, as Captain Sturt supposes, prove to be the same river as that +above-mentioned, as uniting with the "Murray," the existence of an +interior water communication for several hundreds of miles, extending from +the northward of "Mount Harris," down to the southern coast of the colony, +will have been established. + +It is to be regretted, that circumstances did not permit of a more perfect +examination of the lake, (which has been called "Alexandrina"), as the +immediate vicinage of Gulf St. Vincent furnishes a just ground of hope +that a more practicable and useful communication may be discovered in +that direction, than the channel which leads into "Encounter Bay." + +The opportunity of recording a second time the services rendered to the +colony by Captain Sturt, is as gratifying to the government which directed +the undertaking, as it is creditable to the individual who so successfully +conducted it to its termination.--It is an additional cause of +satisfaction to add, that every one, according to his sphere of action, +has a claim to a proportionate degree of applause. All were exposed alike +to the same privations and fatigue, and every one submitted with patience, +manifesting the most anxious desire for the success of the expedition. +The zeal of Mr. George M'Leay, the companion of Captain Sturt, when +example was so important, could not fail to have the most salutary effect; +and the obedience, steadiness, and good conduct of the men employed, merit +the highest praise. + +By his Excellency's command, + +ALEXANDER M'LEAY. + + +* * * * * + + +BANKS OF THE MORUMBIDGEE, APRIL 20TH, 1830. + +SIR,--The departure of Mr. George M'Leay for Sydney, who is anxious to +proceed homewards as speedily as possible, affords me an earlier +opportunity than would otherwise have presented itself, by which to make +you acquainted with the circumstance of my return, under the divine +protection, to the located districts; and I do myself the honour of +annexing a brief account of my proceedings since the last communication +for the information of His Excellency the Governor, until such time as I +shall have it in my power to give in a more detailed report. + +On the 7th of January, agreeably to the arrangements which had been made, +I proceeded down the Morumbidgee in the whale boat, with a complement of +six hands, independent of myself and Mr. M'Leay, holding the skiff in tow. +The river, for several days, kept a general W.S.W. course; it altered +little in appearance, nor did any material change take place in the +country upon its banks. The alluvial flats had occasionally an increased +breadth on either side of it, but the line of reeds was nowhere so +extensive as from previous appearances I had been led to expect. About +twelve miles from the depot, we passed a large creek junction from the +N.E. which, from its locality and from the circumstance of my having been +upon it in the direction of them, I cannot but conclude originates in the +marshes of the Lachlan. + +On the 11th, the Morumbidgee became much encumbered with fallen timber, +and its current was at times so rapid that I was under considerable +apprehension for the safety of the boats. The skiff had been upset on the +8th, and, although I could not anticipate such an accident to the large +boat, I feared she would receive some more serious and irremediable +injury. On the 14th, these difficulties increased upon us.---The channel +of the river became more contracted, and its current more impetuous. We +had no sooner cleared one reach, than fresh and apparently insurmountable +dangers presented themselves to us in the next. I really feared that every +precaution would have proved unavailing against such multiplied +embarrassments, and that ere night we should have possessed only the +wrecks of the expedition. From this state of anxiety, however, we were +unexpectedly relieved, by our arrival at 2 p.m. at the termination of the +Morumbidgee; from which we were launched into a broad and noble river, +flowing from E. to W. at the rate of two and a half knots per hour, over +a clear and sandy bed, of a medium width of from three to four hundred +feet. + +During the first stages of our journey upon this new river, which +evidently had its rise in the mountains of the S.E., we made rapid +progress to the W.N.W. through an unbroken and uninteresting country of +equal sameness of feature and of vegetation. On the 23rd, as the boats +were proceeding down it, several hundreds of natives made their appearance +upon the right bank, having assembled with premeditated purposes of +violence. I was the more surprised at this show of hostility, because we +had passed on general friendly terms, not only with those on the +Morumbidgee, but of the new river. Now, however, emboldened by numbers, +they seemed determined on making the first attack, and soon worked +themselves into a state of frenzy by loud and vehement shouting. As I +observed that the water was shoaling fast, I kept in the middle of the +stream; and, under an impression that it would he impossible for me to +avoid a conflict, prepared for an obstinate resistance. But, at the very +moment when, having arrived opposite to a large sand bank, on which +they had collected, the foremost of the blacks had already advanced +into the water, and I only awaited their nearer approach to fire +upon them, their impetuosity was restrained by the most unlooked +for and unexpected interference. They held back of a sudden, and +allowed us to pass unmolested. The boat, however, almost immediately +grounded on a shoal that stretched across the river, over which she +was with some difficulty hauled into deeper water,--when we found +ourselves opposite to a large junction from the eastward, little +inferior to the river itself. Had I been aware of this circumstance, I +should have been the more anxious with regard to any rupture with the +natives, and I was now happy to find that most of them had laid aside +their weapons and had crossed the junction, it appearing that they had +previously been on a tongue of land formed by the two streams. I therefore +landed among them to satisfy their curiosity and to distribute a few +presents before I proceeded up it. We were obliged to use the four oars to +stem the current against us; but, as soon as we had passed the mouth, +got into deeper water, and found easier pulling, The parallel in which we +struck it, and the direction from which it came, combined to assure me +that this could be no other than the "Darling." To the distance of two +miles it retained a breadth of one hundred yards and a depth of twelve +feet. Its banks were covered with verdure, and the trees overhanging them +were of finer and larger growth than those on the new river by which we +had approached it. Its waters had a shade of green, and were more turbid +than those of its neighbours, but they were perfectly sweet to the taste. + +Having satisfied myself on those points on which I was most anxious, +we returned to the junction to examine it more closely. + +The angle formed by the Darling with the new river is so acute, that +neither can be said to be tributary to the other; but more important +circumstances, upon which it is impossible for me to dwell at the present +moment, mark them as distinct rivers, which have been formed by Nature +for the same purposes, in remote and opposite parts of the island. Not +having as yet given a name to the latter, I now availed myself of the +opportunity of complying with the known wishes of His Excellency the +Governor, and, at the same time, in accordance with my own feelings as a +soldier I distinguished it by that of the "Murray." + +It had been my object to ascertain the decline of the vast plain through +which the Murray flows, that I might judge of the probable fall of the +waters of the interior; but by the most attentive observation I could not +satisfy myself upon the point. The course of the Darling now confirmed +my previous impression that it was to the south, which direction it was +evident the Murray also, in the subsequent stages of our journey down it, +struggled to preserve; from which it was thrown by a range of minor +elevations into a more westerly one. We were carried as far as 139 degrees +40 minutes of longitude, without descending below 34 degrees in point of +latitude; in consequence of which I expected that the river would +ultimately discharge itself, either into St. Vincent's Gulf or that of +Spencer, more especially as lofty ranges were visible in the direction of +them from the summit of the hills behind our camp, on the 2nd of February, +which I laid down as the coast line bounding them. + +A few days prior to the 2nd of February, we passed under some cliffs of +partial volcanic origin, and had immediately afterwards entered a +limestone country of the most singular formation. The river, although we +had passed occasional rapids of the most dangerous kind, had maintained a +sandy character from our first acquaintance with it to the limestone +division. It now forced itself through a glen of that rock of half a mile +in width, frequently striking precipices of more than two hundred feet +perpendicular elevation, in which coral and fossil remains were +plentifully embedded. On the 3rd February it made away to the eastward of +south, in reaches of from two to four miles in length. It gradually lost +its sandy bed, and became deep, still, and turbid; the glen expanded into +a valley, and the alluvial flats, which had hitherto been of +inconsiderable size, became proportionally extensive. The Murray increased +in breadth to more than four hundred yards, with a depth of twenty feet +of water close into the shore, and in fact formed itself into a safe and +navigable stream for any vessels of the minor class. On the 6th the cliffs +partially ceased, and on the 7th they gave place to undulating and +picturesque hills, beneath which thousands of acres of the richest flats +extended, covered, however, with reeds, and apparently subject to overflow +at any unusual rise of the river. + +It is remarkable that the view from the hills was always confined.--We +were apparently running parallel to a continuation of the ranges we had +seen on the 2nd, but they were seldom visible. The country generally +seemed darkly wooded, and had occasional swells upon it, but it was one +of no promise; the timber, chiefly box and pine, being of a poor growth, +and its vegetation languid. On the 8th the hills upon the left wore a +bleak appearance, and the few trees upon them were cut down as if by the +prevailing winds. At noon we could not observe any land at the extremity +of a reach we had just entered; some gentle hills still continued to form +the left lank of the river, but the right was hid from us by high reeds. +I consequently landed to survey the country from the nearest eminence, and +found that we were just about to enter an extensive lake which stretched +away to the S.W., the line of water meeting the horizon in that direction. +Some tolerably lofty ranges were visible to the westward at the distance +of forty miles, beneath which that shore was lost in haze. A hill, which I +prejudged to be Mount Lofty, bearing by compass S. 141 degrees W. More to +the northward, the country was low and unbacked by any elevations. A bold +promontory, which projected into the lake at the distance of seven +leagues, ended the view to the south along the eastern shore; between +which and the river the land also declined. The prospect altogether was +extremely gratifying, and the lake appeared to be a fitting reservoir for +the whole stream which had led us to it. + +In the evening we passed the entrance; but a strong southerly wind heading +us, we did not gain more than nine miles. In the morning it shifted to the +N.E. where we stood out for the promontory on a S.S.W. course. At noon we +were abreast of it, when a line of sand hummocks was ahead, scarcely +visible in consequence of the great refraction about them; but an open sea +behind us from the N.N.W. to the N.N.E. points of the compass. A meridian +altitude observed here, placed us in 35 degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds +S. lat.--At 1, I changed our course a little to the westward, and at +4 p.m. entered an arm of the lake leading W.S.W. On the point, at the +entrance, some natives had assembled, but I could not communicate with +them. They were both painted and armed, and evidently intended to resist +our landing. Wishing, however, to gain some information from them, +I proceeded a short distance below their haunt, and landed for the night, +in hopes that, seeing us peaceably disposed, they would have approached +the tents; but as they kept aloof, we continued our journey in the +morning. The water, which had risen ten inches during the night, had +fallen again in the same proportion, and we were stopped by shoals shortly +after starting. In hopes that the return of tide would have enabled us to +float over them, we waited for it very patiently, but were ultimately +obliged to drag the boat across a mud-flat of more than a quarter of a +mile into deeper water; but, after a run of about twenty minutes, were +again checked by sand banks. My endeavours to push beyond a certain point +were unsuccessful, and I was at length under the necessity of landing upon +the south shore for the night. Some small hummocks were behind us, on the +other side of which I had seen the ocean from our morning's position; +and whilst the men were pitching the tents, walked over them in company +with Mr. M'Leay to the sea shore, having struck the coast at Encounter +Bay, Cape Jervis, bearing by compass S. 81 degrees W. distant between +three and four leagues, and Kangaroo Island S.E. extremity S. 60 +degrees W. distant from nine to ten. + +Thirty-two days had elapsed since we had left the depot, and I regretted +in this stage of our journey, that I could not with prudence remain an +hour longer on the coast than was necessary for me to determine the exit +of the lake. From the angle of the channel on which we were, a bright +sand-hill was visible at about nine miles distance to the E.S.E.; which, +it struck me, was the eastern side of the passage communicating with the +ocean. Having failed in our attempts to proceed further in the boat, and +the appearance of the shoals at low water having convinced me of the +impracticability of it, I determined on an excursion along the sea-shore +to the southward and eastward, in anxious hopes that it would be a short +one; for as we had had a series of winds from the S.W. which had now +changed to the opposite quarter, I feared we should have to pull across +the lake in our way homewards. I left the camp therefore at an early hour, +in company with Mr. M'Leay and Fraser, and at day-break arrived opposite +to the sand-bank I have mentioned. Between us and it the entrance into the +back water ran. The passage is at all periods of the tide rather more than +a quarter of a mile in width, and is of sufficient depth for a boat to +enter, especially on the off side; but a line of dangerous breakers in +the bay will always prevent an approach to it from the sea, except in the +calmest weather, whilst the bay itself will always he a hazardous place +for any vessels to enter under any circumstances. + +Having, however, satisfactorily concluded our pursuit, we retraced our +steps to the camp, and again took the following bearings as we left the +beach, the strand trending E.S.E. 1/2 E.:-- + + Kangaroo Island, S.E. angle S. 60 degrees W.. + Low rocky point of Cape Jervis S. 81 degrees W. + Round Hill in centre of Range S. 164 degrees W. + Camp, distant one mile S. 171 degrees W. + Mount Lofty, distant forty miles N. 9 degrees E. + +Before setting sail, a bottle was deposited between four and five feet +deep in a mound of soft earth and shells, close to the spot on which the +tent had stood, which contained a paper of the names of the party, +together with a simple detail of our arrival and departure. + +It appeared that the good fortune, which had hitherto attended us was +still to continue, for the wind which had been contrary, chopped round to +the S.W., and ere sunset we were again in the mouth of the river, having +run from fifty to sixty miles under as much canvass as the boat would +bear, and with a heavy swell during the greater part of the day. + +The lake which has thus terminated our journey, is from fifty to sixty +miles in length, and from thirty to forty in width. With such an expanse +of water, I am correct in stating its medium depth at four feet. There is +a large bight in it to the S.E. and a beautiful and extensive bay to the +N.W. At about seven miles from the mouth of the river, its waters are +brackish, and at twenty-one miles they are quite salt, whilst seals +frequent the lower parts. Considering this lake to be of sufficient +importance, and in anticipation that its shores will, during her reign, +if not at an earlier period, be peopled by some portion of her subjects, +I have called it, in well-meant loyalty, "The Lake Alexandrina." + +It is remarkable that the Murray has few tributaries below the Darling. +It receives one, however, of considerable importance from the S.E., to +which I have given the name of the "Lindesay," as a mark of respect to my +commanding-officer, and in remembrance of the many acts of kindness I have +received at his hands. + +Having dwelt particularly on the nature of the country through which the +expedition has passed in the pages of my journal, it may be unnecessary +for me to enter into any description of it in this place, further than to +observe, that the limestone continued down to the very coast, and that +although the country in the neighbourhood of the Lake Alexandrina must, +from local circumstances, be rich in point of soil, the timber upon it is +of stunted size, and that it appears to have suffered from drought, +though not to the same extent with the eastern coast. It is evident, +however, that its vicinity to high lands does not altogether exempt it +from such periodical visitations; still I have no doubt that my +observations upon it will convince His Excellency the Governor, that it is +well worthy of a closer, and more attentive examination, than I had it in +my power to make. + +In a geographical point of view, I am happy to believe that the result of +this expedition has been conclusive; and that, combined with the late one, +it has thrown much light upon the nature of the interior of the vast +Island; that the decline of waters, as far as the parallel of 139 degrees +E., is to the south, and that the Darling is to the N.E. as the Murray +is to the S.E. angle of the coast, the main channel by which the waters of +the central ranges are thrown or discharged into one great reservoir. + +Our journey homewards was only remarkable for its labour: in conclusion, +therefore, it remains for me to add that we reached the depot on the +23rd of March. + +Our sugar failed us on the 18th of February, and our salt provisions, +in consequence of the accident which happened to the skiff, on the 8th of +March; so that from the above period we were living on a reduced ration of +flour; and as we took few fish, and were generally unsuccessful with our +guns, the men had seldom more than their bread to eat. + +I regretted to observe that they were daily falling off, and that although +unremitting in their exertions they were well nigh exhausted, ere we +reached the Morumbidgee. + +We were from sunrise to five o'clock on the water, and from the day +that we left the depot to that of our return we never rested upon our +oars. We were thirty-nine days gaining the depot from the coast, against +a strong current in both rivers, being seven more than it took us to go +down. From the depot to this station we had seventeen days hard pulling, +making a total of eighty-eight, during which time we could not have +travelled over less than 2000 miles. I was under the necessity of stopping +short on the 10th instant, and of detaching two men for the drays, which +happily arrived on the 17th, on which day our stock of flour failed us. +Had I not adopted this plan, the men would have become too weak to have +pulled up to Pondebadgery, and we should no doubt have suffered some +privations. + +This detail will, I am sure, speak more in favour of the men composing the +party than anything I can say. I would most respectfully recommend them +all to His Excellency's notice; and I beg to assure him that, during the +whole of this arduous journey, they were cheerful, zealous, and obedient. +They had many harassing duties to perform, and their patience and temper +were often put to severe trials by the natives, of whom we could not have +seen fewer than 4000 on the Murray alone. + +I am to refer His Excellency the Governor to Mr. M'Leay for any more +immediate information he may require,--to whom I stand indebted on many +points--and not less in the anxiety he evinced for the success of the +undertaking, than in the promptitude with which he assisted in the labours +attendant on our return, and his uniform kindness to the men. + +I have the honour to subscribe myself, +Sir, +Your most obedient humble Servant, +CHARLES STURT, +Captain of the 39th Regt. + +The Hon. the Colonial Secretary. + + + +END OF VOLUME II + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg Etext of Two Expeditions into the Interior of +Southern Australia Volume II by Charles Sturt + diff --git a/old/xpss210.zip b/old/xpss210.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6bcef46 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/xpss210.zip diff --git a/old/xpss211.txt b/old/xpss211.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..427b467 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/xpss211.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7482 @@ +The Project Gutenberg Etext of Two Expeditions into the Interior of +Southern Australia Volume II by Charles Sturt +#2 in our series by Charles Sturt + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. 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FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.10/04/01*END* + + + + + + +This etext was produced by Col Choat colc@gutenberg.net.au. + + + + +This etext was produced by Col Choat colc@gutenberg.net.au. + + + + + +TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA DURING THE YEARS +1828,1829,1830,1831 WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOIL, CLIMATE AND GENERAL +RESOURCES OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES. + +IN TWO VOLUMES + +VOLUME II. + + +"For though most men are contented only to see a river as it runs by +them, and talk of the changes in it as they happen; when it is troubled, +or when clear; when it drowns the country in a flood, or forsakes it in a +drought: yet he that would know the nature of the water, and the causes of +those accidents (so as to guess at their continuance or return), must find +out its source, and observe with what strength it rises, what length it +runs, and how many small streams fall in, and feed it to such a height, +as make it either delightful or terrible to the eye, and useful or +dangerous to the country about it."...SIR WILLIAM TEMPLE'S NETHERLANDS. + + + + + +CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME + +EXPEDITION DOWN THE MORUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY RIVERS, IN 1829, 1830 AND 1831. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Introductory--Remarks on the results of the former Expedition--The +fitting out of another determined on--Its objects--Provisions, +accoutrements, and retinue--Paper furnished by Mr. Kent--Causes that have +prevented the earlier appearance of the present work. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Commencement of the expedition in November, 1829.--Joined by Mr. George +M'Leay--Appearance of the party--Breadalbane Plains--Hospitality of Mr. +O'Brien--Yass Plains--Hill of Pouni--Path of a hurricane--Character of the +country between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee--Appearance of that river-- +Junction of the Dumot with it--Crossing and recrossing--Geological +character and general aspect of the country--Plain of Pondebadgery--Few +natives seen. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Character of the Morumbidgee where it issues from the hilly country-- +Appearance of approach to swamps--Hamilton Plains--Intercourse with the +natives--Their appearance, customs, &c.--Change in the character of the +river--Mirage-- Dreariness of the country--Ride towards the Lachlan river +--Two boats built and launched on the Morumbidgee; and the drays, with +part of the men sent back to Goulburn Plains. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Embarkation of the party in the boats, and voyage down the Morumbidgee-- +The skiff swamped by striking on a sunken tree--Recovery of boat and its +loading--Region of reeds--Dangers of the navigation--Contraction of the +channel--Reach the junction of a large river--Intercourse with the natives +on its banks--Character of the country below the junction of the rivers-- +Descent of a dangerous rapid--Warlike demonstrations of a tribe of +natives--Unexpected deliverance from a conflict with them--Junction of +another river--Give the name of the "Murray" to the principal stream. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Character of the country--Damage of provisions--Adroitness of the natives +in catching fish--The skiff broken up--Stream from the North-East supposed +to be the Darling--Change of country in descending the river--Intercourse +with the natives--Prevalence of loathsome diseases among them--Apparent +populousness of the country--Junction of several small streams--The Rufus, +the Lindesay, &c.--Rainy and tempestuous weather--Curious appearance of +the banks--Troublesomeness of the natives--Inhospitable and desolate +aspect of the country--Condition of the men--Change in the geological +character of the country--The river passes through a valley among hills. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Improvement in the aspect of the country--Increase of the river--Strong +westerly gales--Chronometer broken--A healthier tribe of natives-- +Termination of the Murray in a large lake--Its extent and environs-- +Passage across it--Hostile appearance of the natives-- Beautiful scenery +--Channel from the lake to the sea at Encounter Bay--Reach the beach-- +Large flocks of water fowl--Curious refraction--State of provisions-- +Embarrassing situation--Inspection of the channel to the ocean--Weak +condition of the men--Difficulties of the return. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Valley of the Murray--Its character and capabilities--Laborious progress +up the river--Accident to the boat--Perilous collision with the natives +--Turbid current of the Rufus--Passage of the Rapids--Assisted by the +natives--Dangerous intercourse with them--Re-enter the Morumbidgee-- +Verdant condition of its banks--Nocturnal encounter with the natives-- +Interesting manifestation of feeling in one family--Reach the spot where +the party had embarked on the river--Men begin to fail entirely-- +Determine to send two men forward for relief--Their return--Excursion on +horseback--Reach Pondebadgery Plain, and meet the supplies from the +colony--Cannibalism of the natives--Return to Sydney--Concluding remarks. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Environs of the lake Alexandrina--Appointment of Capt. Barker to make a +further survey of the coast near Encounter Bay--Narrative of his +proceedings--Mount Lofty, Mount Barker, and beautiful country adjacent-- +Australian salmon--Survey of the coast--Outlet of lake to the sea-- +Circumstances that led to the slaughter of Capt. Barker by the natives-- +His character--Features of this part of the country and capabilities of +its coasts--Its adaptation for colonization--Suggestions for the +furtherance of future Expeditions. + + +APPENDIX. + +No. I. Geological Specimens found to the south-west of Port Jackson +No. II. Official Report to the Colonial Government + + +ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME +(Not included in this etext) + +View on the Morumbidgee River +Junction of the supposed Darling with the Murray +Palaeornis Melanura, or Black Tailed Paroquet +Pomatorhinus Temporalis +Pomatorhinus Superciliosus +Chart of Cape Jervis, and Encounter Bay +Mass of Fossils of the Tertiary Formation +Bulla +Conus +Genus Unknown +Chrystallized Selenite +Selenite +Single Fossils of the Tertiary Formation + + + + +EXPEDITION DOWN THE MORUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY RIVERS, IN 1829, 1830 AND 1831. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + +Introductory + + +Remarks on the results of the former Expedition--The fitting out of +another determined on--Its objects--Provisions, accoutrements, and +retinue--Paper furnished by Mr. Kent--Causes that have prevented the +earlier appearance of the present work. + +OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION. + +The expedition of which we have just detailed the proceedings was so far +satisfactory in its results, that it not only set at rest the hypothesis +of the existence of an internal shoal sea in southern Australia, and +ascertained the actual termination of the rivers it had been directed to +trace, but also added very largely to our knowledge of the country +considerably to the westward of former discoveries. And although no land +had been traversed of a fertile description of sufficient extent to invite +the settler, the fact of a large river such as the Darling lying at the +back of our almost intertropical settlements, gave a fresh importance to +the distant interior. It was evident that this river was the chief drain +for carrying off the waters falling westerly from the eastern coast, and +as its course indicated a decline of country diametrically opposite to +that which had been calculated upon, it became an object of great +importance to ascertain its further direction. Had not the saline quality +of its waters been accounted for, by the known existence of brine springs +in its bed, it would have been natural to have supposed that it +communicated with some mediterranean sea; but, under existing +circumstances, it remained to be proved whether this river held on a due +south course, or whether it ultimately turned westerly, and ran into the +heart of the interior. In order fully to determine this point, it would be +necessary to regain it banks, so far below the parallel to which it had +been traced as to leave no doubt of its identity; but it was difficult to +fix upon a plan for approaching that central stream without suffering from +the want of water, since it could hardly be expected that the Lachlan +would afford such means, as it was reasonable to presume that its +termination was very similar to that of the Macquarie. The attention of +the government was, consequently, fixed upon the Morumbidgee, a river +stated to be of considerable size and of impetuous current. Receiving its +supplies from the lofty ranges behind Mount Dromedary, it promised to hold +a longer course than those rivers which, depending on periodical rains +alone for existence, had been found so soon to exhaust themselves. + +PREPARATIONS. + +The fitting out of another expedition was accordingly determined upon; and +about the end of September 1829, I received the Governor's instructions to +make the necessary preparations for a second descent into the interior, +for the purpose of tracing the Morumbidgee, or such rivers as it might +prove to be connected with, as far as practicable. In the event of failure +in this object, it was hoped that an attempt to regain the banks of the +Darling on a N.W. course from the point at which the expedition might be +thwarted in its primary views, would not be unattended with success. Under +any circumstances, however, by pursuing these measures, an important part +of the colony would necessarily be traversed, of which the features were +as yet altogether unknown. + +It became my interest and my object to make the expedition as complete as +possible, and, as far as in me lay, to provide for every contingency: and +as it appeared to me that, in all likelihood, we should in one stage or +other of our journey have to trust entirely to water conveyance, I +determined on taking a whale-boat, whose dimensions and strength should in +some measure be proportioned to the service required. I likewise +constructed a small still for the distillation of water, in the event of +our finding the water of the Darling salt, when we should reach its banks. +The whale-boat, after being fitted, was taken to pieces for more +convenient carriage, as has been more particularly detailed in the last +chapter of the preceding volume. + +So little danger had been apprehended from the natives in the former +journey, that three firelocks had been considered sufficient for our +defence. On the present occasion, however, I thought it adviseable to +provide arms for each individual. + +Mr. Hume declined accompanying me, as the harvest was at hand. Mr. George +M'Leay therefore supplied his place, rather as a companion than as an +assistant; and of those who accompanied me down the banks of the +Macquarie, I again selected Harris (my body servant), Hopkinson, and +Fraser. + +MR. KENT'S REPORT. + +The concluding chapter of this volume, relative to the promontory of +St. Vincent, or Cape Jarvis, has been furnished me by the kindness of +Mr. Kent, who accompanied the lamented officer to whom the further +exploration of that part of coast unhappily proved fatal. There is a +melancholy coincidence between Captain Barker's death and that of Captain +Cook, which cannot fail to interest the public, as the information that +has been furnished will call for their serious consideration. I shall +leave for their proper place, the remarks I have to offer upon it, since +my motive in these prefatory observations has been, to carry the reader +forward to that point at which he will have to view the proceedings of the +expedition alone, in order the more satisfactorily to arrive at their +results. And, although he must expect a considerable portion of dry +reading in the following pages, I have endeavoured to make the narrative +of events, some of which are remarkably striking, as interesting as +possible. + +REMARKS ON THE PRESENT WORK; DELIVERANCE FROM DANGERS. + +It only remains for me to refer the reader to the concluding chapter of +the preceding volume, for such general information as I have been enabled +to furnish upon the nature of the services on which I was employed, and on +the manner of conducting similar expeditions. Indeed, I trust that this +book (whatever be its defects) will be found to contain much valuable +information of a practical character, and I may venture to affirm, that it +will give a true description of the country, and of the various other +subjects of which it treats. + +Notwithstanding that I have in my dedication alluded to the causes that +prevented the earlier appearance of this work, I feel it due both to +myself and the public here to state, that during these expeditions my +health had suffered so much, that I was unable to bear up against the +effects of exposure, bodily labour, poverty of diet, and the anxiety of +mind to which I was subjected. A residence on Norfolk Island, under +peculiarly harassing circumstances, completed that which the above causes +had commenced; and, after a succession of attacks, I became totally blind, +and am still unable either to read what I pen, or to venture abroad +without an attendant. When it is recollected, that I have been unassisted +in this work in any one particular, I hope some excuse will be found for +its imperfections. A wish to contribute to the public good led me to +undertake those journeys which have cost me so much. The same feeling +actuates me in recording their results; and I have the satisfaction to +know, that my path among a large and savage population was a bloodless +one; and that my intercourse with them was such as to lessen the danger to +future adventurers upon such hazardous enterprises, and to give them hope +where I had so often despaired. Something more powerful, than human +foresight or human prudence, appeared to avert the calamities and dangers +with which I and my companions were so frequently threatened; and had it +not been for the guidance and protection we received from the Providence +of that good and all-wise Being to whose care we committed ourselves, we +should, ere this, have ceased to rank among the number of His earthly +creatures. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + +Commencement of the expedition in November, 1829.--Joined by Mr. George +M'Leay--Appearance of the party--Breadalbane Plains--Hospitality of Mr. +O'Brien--Yass Plains--Hill of Pouni--Path of a hurricane--Character of the +country between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee--Appearance of that river-- +Junction of the Dumot with it--Crossing and recrossing--Geological +character and general aspect of the country--Plain of Pondebadgery--Few +natives seen. + + +The expedition which traversed the marshes of the Macquarie, left Sydney +on the 10th day of Nov. 1828. That destined to follow the waters of the +Morumbidgee, took its departure from the same capital on the 3rd of the +same month in the ensuing year. Rain had fallen in the interval, but not +in such quantities as to lead to the apprehension that it had either +influenced or swollen the western streams. It was rather expected that the +winter falls would facilitate the progress of the expedition, and it was +hoped that, as the field of its operations would in all probability be +considerably to the south of the parallel of Port Jackson, the extreme +heat to which the party and the animals had been exposed on the former +journey, would be less felt on the present occasion. + +As there was no Government establishment to the S.W. at which I could +effect any repairs, or recruit my supplies, as I had done at Wellington +Valley, the expedition, when it left Sydney, was completed in every +branch, and was so fully provided with every necessary implement and +comfort, as to render any further aid, even had such been attainable, in a +great measure unnecessary. The Governor had watched over my preparations +with a degree of anxiety that evidenced the interest he felt in the +expedition, and his arrangements to ensure, as far as practicable, our +being met on our return, in the event of our being in distress, were +equally provident and satisfactory. It was not, however, to the providing +for our wants in the interior alone that His Excellency's views were +directed, but orders were given to hold a vessel in readiness, to be +dispatched at a given time to St. Vincent's Gulf, in case we should +ultimately succeed in making the south coast in its neighbourhood. + +LEAVE SYDNEY. + +The morning on which I left Sydney a second time, under such doubtful +circumstances, was perfectly serene and clear. I found myself at 5 a.m. of +that delightful morning leading my horses through the gates of those +barracks whose precincts I might never again enter, and whose inmates I +might never again behold assembled in military array. Yet, although the +chance of misfortune flashed across my mind, I was never lighter at heart, +or more joyous in spirit. It appeared to me that the stillness and harmony +of nature influenced my feelings on the occasion, and my mind forgot the +storms of life, as nature at that moment seemed to have forgotten the +tempests that sometimes agitate her. + +APPEARANCE OF THE PARTY. + +I proceeded direct to the house of my friend Mr. J. Deas Thomson, who had +agreed to accompany me to Brownlow Hill, a property belonging to +Mr. M'Leay, the Colonial Secretary, where his son, Mr. George M'Leay, was +to join the expedition. As soon as we had taken a hasty breakfast, I went +to the carters' barracks to superintend the first loading of the animals. +Mr. Murray, the superintendent, had arranged every article so well, and +had loaded the drays so compactly that I had no trouble, and little time +was lost in saddling the pack animals. At a quarter before 7 the party +filed through the turnpike-gate, and thus commenced its journey with the +greatest regularity. I have the scene, even at this distance of time, +vividly impressed upon my mind, and I have no doubt the kind friend who +was near me on the occasion, bears it as strongly on his recollection. +My servant Harris, who had shared my wanderings and had continued in my +service for eighteen years, led the advance, with his companion Hopkinson. +Nearly abreast of them the eccentric Fraser stalked along wholly lost in +thought. The two former had laid aside their military habits, and had +substituted the broad brimmed hat and the bushman's dress in their place, +but it was impossible to guess how Fraser intended to protect himself from +the heat or the damp, so little were his habiliments suited for the +occasion. He had his gun over his shoulder, and his double shot belt as +full as it could be of shot, although there was not a chance of his +expending a grain during the day. Some dogs Mr. Maxwell had kindly sent me +followed close at his heels, as if they knew his interest in them, and +they really seemed as if they were aware that they were about to exchange +their late confinement for the freedom of the woods. The whole of these +formed a kind of advanced guard. At some distance in the rear the drays +moved slowly along, on one of which rode the black boy mentioned in my +former volume, and behind them followed the pack animals. Robert Harris, +whom I had appointed to superintend the animals generally, kept his place +near the horses, and the heavy Clayton, my carpenter, brought up the rear. +I shall not forget the interest Thomson appeared to take in a scene that +must certainly have been new to him. Our progress was not checked by the +occurrence of a single accident, nor did I think it necessary to remain +with the men after we had gained that turn which, at about four miles from +Sydney, branches off to the left, and leads direct to Liverpool. From this +Point my companion and I pushed forward, in order to terminate a fifty +miles' ride a little sooner than we should have done at the leisurely pace +we had kept during the early part of our journey. We remained in Liverpool +for a short time, to prepare the commissariat office for the reception, +and to ensure the accommodation, of the party; and reached Brownlow Hill +a little after sunset. + +LIVERPOOL-GOULBURN PLAINS. + +As I have already described the country on this line of road as far us +Goulburn Plains, it will not be considered necessary that I should again +notice its features with minuteness. + +WALLANDILLY-TYRANNA. + +The party arrived at Glendarewel, the farm attached to Brownlow Hill, on +the 5th. I resumed my journey alone on the 8th. M'Leay had still some few +arrangements to make, so that I dispensed with his immediate attendance. +He overtook me, however, sooner than I expected, on the banks of the +Wallandilly. I had encamped under the bluff end of Cookbundoon, and, +having been disappointed in getting bearings when crossing the Razor Back, +I hoped that I should be enabled to connect a triangle from the summit +of Cookbundoon, or to secure bearings of some prominent hill to the south. +I found the brush, however, so thick on the top of the mountain, that I +could obtain no satisfactory view, and and M'Leay, who accompanied me, +agreed with me in considering that we were but ill repaid for the hot +scramble we had had. Crossing the western extremity of Goulburn Plains on +the 15th, we encamped on a chain of ponds behind Doctor Gibson's residence +at Tyranna, and as I had some arrangements to make with that gentleman, +I determined to give both the men and animals a day's rest. I availed +myself of Doctor Gibson's magazines to replace such of my provisions as I +had expended, as I found that I could do so without putting him to any +inconvenience; and I added two of his men to the party, intending to send +them back, in case of necessity, or, when we should have arrived at that +point from which it might appear expedient to forward an account of my +progress and ultimate views, for the governor's information. + +On the 17th we struck the tents, and, crossing the chain of ponds near +which they had been pitched, entered a forest track, that gave place to +barren stony ridges of quartz formation. These continued for six or seven +miles, in the direction of Breadalbane Plains, upon which we were obliged +to stop, as we should have had some difficulty in procuring either water +or food, within any moderate distance beyond them. The water, indeed, that +we were obliged to content ourselves with was by no means good. +Breadalbane Plains are of inconsiderable extent, and are surrounded by +ridges, the appearance of which is not very promising. Large white masses +of quartz rock lie scattered over them, amongst trees of stunted growth. +Mr. Redall's farm was visible at the further extremity of the plains from +that by which we had entered them. It would appear that these plains are +connected with Goulburn Plains by a narrow valley, that was too wet for +the drays to have traversed. + +BREADALBANE PLAINS. + +Doctor Gibson had kindly accompanied us to Breadalbane Plains. On the +morning of the 18th he returned to Tyranna, and we pursued our journey, +keeping mostly on a W.S.W. course. From the barren hills over which we +passed, on leaving the plains, we descended upon an undulating country, +and found a change of rock, as well as of vegetation, upon it. Granite and +porphyry constituted its base. An open forest, on which the eucalyptus +mannifera alone prevailed, lay on either side of us, and although the soil +was coarse, and partook in a great measure of the decomposition of the +rock it covered, there was no deficiency of grass. On the contrary, this +part of the interior is decidedly well adapted for pasturing cattle. + +THE LORN. + +About 1 p.m. we passed Mr. Hume's station, with whom I remained for a +short time. He had fixed his establishment on the banks of the Lorn, a +small river, issuing from the broken country near Lake George, and now +ascertained to be one of the largest branches of the Lachlan River. We had +descended a barren pass of stringy bark scrub, on sandstone rock, a little +before we reached Mr. Hume's station, but around it the same, open forest +tract again prevailed. We crossed the Lorn, at 2 o'clock, leaving +Mr. Broughton's farm upon our left, and passed through a broken country, +which was very far from being deficient in pasture. We encamped on the +side of a water-course, about 4 o'clock, having travelled about fifteen +miles. + +On the 19th, we observed no change in the soil or aspect of the country, +for the first five miles. The eucalyptus mannifera was the most prevalent +of the forest trees, and certainly its presence indicated a more +flourishing state in the minor vegetation. At about five miles, however, +from where we had slept, sandstone reappeared, and with it the barren +scrub that usually grows upon a sandy and inhospitable soil. One of the +drays was upset in its progress down a broken pass, where the road had +been altogether neglected, and it was difficult to avoid accidents. +Fortunately we suffered no further than in the delay that the necessity of +unloading the dray, and reloading it, occasioned. Mr. O'Brien, an +enterprising settler, who had pushed his flocks to the banks of the +Morumbidgee, and who was proceeding to visit his several stations, +overtook us in the midst of our troubles. We had already passed each other +frequently on the road, but he now preceded me to his establishment at +Yass; at which I proposed remaining for a day. We stopped about three +miles short of the plains for the night, at the gorge of the pass through +which we had latterly been advancing, and had gradually descended to a +more open country. From the place at which we were temporarily delayed, +and which is not inappropriately called the Devil's Pass, the road winds +about between ranges, differing in every respect from any we had as yet +noticed. The sides of the hills were steeper, and their summits sharper, +than any we had crossed. They were thickly covered with eucalypti and +brush, and, though based upon sandstone, were themselves of a schistose +formation. + +YASS PLAINS. + +Yharr or Yass Plains were discovered by Mr. Hovel, and Mr. Hume, the +companion of my journey down the Macquarie, in 1828. They take their name +from the little river that flows along their north and north-west +boundaries. They are surrounded on every side by forests, and excepting to +the W.N.W., as a central point, by hill. Undulating, but naked themselves, +they have the appearance of open downs, and are most admirably adapted for +sheep-walks, not only in point of vegetation, but also, because their +inequalities prevent their becoming swampy during the rainy season. They +are from nine to twelve miles in length and from five to seven in breadth, +and although large masses of sandstone are scattered over them, a blue +secondary limestone composes the general bed of the river, that was darker +in colour and more compact than I had remarked the same kind of rock, +either at Wellington Valley, or in the Shoal Haven Gully. I have no doubt +that Yass Plains will ere long be wholly taken up as sheep-walks, and that +their value to the grazier will in a great measure counterbalance its +distance from the coast, or, more properly speaking, from the capital. +Sheep I should imagine would thrive uncommonly well upon these plains, +and would suffer less from distempers incidental to locality and to +climate, than in many parts of the colony over which they are now +wandering in thousands. And if the plains themselves do not afford +extensive arable tracts, there is, at least, sufficient good land near the +river to supply the wants of a numerous body of settlers. + +HOSPITALITY OF MR. O'BRIEN. + +We left Mr. O'Brien's station on the morning of the 21st, and, agreeably +to his advice, determined on gaining the Morumbidgee, by a circuit to the +N.W., rather than endanger the safety of the drays by entering the +mountain passes to the westward. Mr. O'Brien, however, would not permit us +to depart from his dwelling without taking away with us some further +proofs of his hospitality. The party had pushed forward before I, or +Mr. M'Leay, had mounted our horses; but on overtaking it, we found that +eight fine wethers had been added to our stock of animals. + +HILL OF POUNI; ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. + +To the W.N.W. of Yass Plains there is a remarkable hill, called Pouni, +remarkable not so much on account of its height, as of its commanding +position. It had, I believe, already been ascended by one of the +Surveyor-general's assistants. The impracticability of the country to the +south of it, obliged us to pass under its opposite base, from which an +open forest country extended to the northward. We had already recrossed +the Yass River, and passed Mr. Barber's station, to that of Mr. Hume's +father, at which we stopped for a short time. Both farms are well +situated, the latter I should say, romantically so, it being immediately +under Pouni, the hill we have noticed. The country around both was open, +and both pasture and water were abundant. + +Mr. O'Brien had been kind enough to send one of the natives who frequented +his station to escort us to his more advanced station upon the +Morumbidgee. Had it not been for the assistance we received from this man, +I should have had but little leisure for other duties: as it was however, +there was no fear of the party going astray. This gave M'Leay and myself +an opportunity of ascending Pouni, for the purpose of taking bearings; and +how ever warm the exertion of the ascent made us, the view from the summit +of the hill sufficiently repaid us, and the cool breeze that struck it, +although imperceptible in the forest below, soon dried the perspiration +from our brows. The scenery around us was certainly varied, yet many +parts of it put me forcibly in mind of the dark and gloomy tracks over +which my eye had wandered from similar elevations on the former journey. +This was especially the case in looking to the north, towards which point +the hills forming the right of the valley by which we had entered the +plains, decreased so rapidly in height that they were lost in the general +equality of the more remote country, almost ere they had reached abreast +of my position. From E.S.E. to W.S.W. the face of the country was hilly, +broken and irregular; forming deep ravines and precipitous glens, amid +which I was well aware the Morumbidgee was still struggling for freedom; +while mountains succeeded mountains in the back-ground, and were +themselves overtopped by lofty and very distant peaks. To the eastward, +however, the hills wore a more regular form, and were lightly covered with +wood. The plains occupied the space between them and Pouni; and a smaller +plain bore N.N.E. which, being embosomed in the forest, had hitherto +escaped our notice. + +We overtook the party just as it cleared the open ground through which it +had previously been moving. A barren scrub succeeded it for about eight +miles. The soil in this scrub was light and sandy. + +We stopped for the night at the head of a valley that seemed to have been +well trodden by cattle. The feed, therefore, was not abundant, nor was the +water good. We had, however, made a very fair journey, and I was unwilling +to press the animals. But in consequence, I fancy, of the scarcity of +food, they managed to creep away during the night, with the exception of +three or four of the bullocks, nor should we have collected them again so +soon as we did, or without infinite trouble, had it not been for our guide +and my black boy. We unavoidably lost a day, but left our position on the +23rd, for Underaliga, a station occupied by Doctor Harris, the gentleman I +have already had occasion to mention. We reached the banks of the creek +near the stock hut, about 4 p.m., having journeyed during the greater part +of the day through a poor country, partly of scrub and partly of open +forest-land, in neither of which was the soil or vegetation fresh or +abundant. At about three miles from Underaliga, the country entirely +changed its character, and its flatness was succeeded by a broken and +undulating surface. The soil upon the hills was coarse and sandy, from the +decomposition of the granite rock that constituted their base. +Nevertheless, the grass was abundant on the hills, though the roots or +tufts were far apart; and the hills were lightly studded with trees. + +COURSE OF A HURRICANE. + +In the course of the day we crossed the line of a hurricane that had just +swept with resistless force over the country, preserving a due north +course, and which we had heard from a distance, fortunately too great to +admit of its injuring us. It had opened a fearful gap in the forest +through which it had passed, of about a quarter of a mile in breadth. +Within that space, no tree had been able to withstand its fury, for it had +wrenched every bough from such as it had failed to prostrate, and they +stood naked in the midst of the surrounding wreck. I am inclined to think +that the rudeness of nature itself in these wild and uninhabited regions, +gives birth to these terrific phenomena. They have never occurred, so far +as I know, in the located districts. Our guide deserted us in the early +part of the day without assigning any reason for doing so. He went off +without being noticed, and thus lost the reward that would have been +bestowed on him had he mentioned his wish to return to Yass. I the more +regretted his having sneaked off, because he had had the kindness to put +us on a track we could not well lose. + +COUNTRY FROM UNDERALIGA TO MORUMBIDGEE. + +Underaliga, is said to be thirty miles from the Morumbidgee. The country +between the two has a sameness of character throughout. It is broken and +irregular, yet no one hill rises conspicuously over the rest. We found +ourselves at one time on their summits beside huge masses of granite, at +others crossing valleys of rich soil and green appearance. A country under +cultivation is so widely different from one the sod of which has never +been broken by the plough, that it is difficult and hazardous to form a +decided opinion on the latter. If you ask a stockman what kind of a +country lies, either to his right, or to his left, he is sure to condemn +it, unless it will afford the most abundant pasture. Accustomed to roam +about from one place to another, these men despise any but the richest +tracts, and include the rest of the neighbourhood in one sweeping clause +of condemnation. Thus I was led to expect, that we should pass over a +country of the very worst description, between Underaliga and the +Morumbidgee. Had it been similar to that midway between Yass and +Uuderaliga, we should, in truth, have found it so; but it struck me, that +there were many rich tracts of ground among the valleys of the former, and +that the very hills had a fair covering of grass upon them. What though +the soil was coarse, if the vegetation was good and sufficient? Perhaps +the greatest drawback to this part of the interior is the want of water; +yet we crossed several creeks, and remarked some deep water holes, that +can never be exhausted, even in the driest season. Wherever the situation +favoured our obtaining a view of the country on either side of us, while +among these hills, we found that to the eastward lofty and mountainous; +whilst that to the westward, had the appearance of fast sinking into +a level. + +JUGGIONG. + +A short time before we reached the Morumbidgee, we forded a creek, which +we crossed a second time where it falls into the river. After crossing it +the first time we opened a flat, on which the marks of sheep were +abundant. In the distance there was a small hill, and on its top a bark +hut. We were not until then aware of our being so near the river, but as +Mr. O'Brien had informed me that he had a station for sheep, at a place +called Juggiong, by the natives, on the immediate banks of the river, I +did not doubt that we had, at length, arrived at it. And so it proved. I +went to the hut, to ascertain where I could conveniently stop for the +night, but the residents were absent. I could not but admire the position +they had taken up. The hill upon which their hut was erected was not more +than fifty feet high, but it immediately overlooked the river, and +commanded not only the flat we had traversed in approaching it, but also a +second flat on the opposite side. The Morumbidgee came down to the foot of +this little hill from the south, and, of course, running to the north, +which latter direction it suddenly takes up from a previous S.W. one, on +meeting some hills that check its direct course. From the hill on which +the hut stands, it runs away westward, almost in a direct line, for three +miles, so that the position commands a view of both the reaches, which are +overhung by the casuarina and flooded-gum. Rich alluvial flats lie to the +right of the stream, backed by moderate hills, that were lightly studded +with trees, and clothed with verdure to their summits. Some moderate +elevations also backed a flat, on the left bank of the river, but the +colour of the soil upon the latter, as well as its depressed situation, +showed clearly that it was subject to flood, and had received the worst of +the depositions from the mountains. The hills behind it were also bare, +and of a light red colour, betraying, as I imagined, a distinct formation +from, and poorer character than, the hills behind us. At about three miles +the river again suddenly changes its direction from west to south, for +about a mile, when it inclines to the S.E. until it nearly encircles the +opposite hills, when it assumes its proper direction, and flows away to +the S.W. + +CROSS THE UNDERALIGA; REACH THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +We crossed the Underaliga creek a little below the stock hut, and encamped +about a mile beyond it, in the centre of a long plain. We were surrounded +on every side by hills, from which there was no visible outlet, as they +appeared to follow the bend of the river, with an even and unbroken +outline. The scenery around us was wild, romantic, and beautiful; as +beautiful as a rich and glowing sunset in the most delightful climate +under the heavens could make it. I had been more anxious to gain the banks +of the Morumbidgee on this occasion, than I had been on a former one to +gain those of the Macquarie, for although I could not hope to see the +Morumbidgee all that it had been described to me, yet I felt that on its +first appearance I should in some measure ground my anticipations of +ultimate success. When I arrived on the banks of the Macquarie, it had +almost ceased to flow, and its current was so gentle as to be scarcely +perceptible. Instead, however, of a river in such a state of exhaustion, +I now looked down upon a stream, whose current it would have been +difficult to breast, and whose waters, foaming among rocks, or circling in +eddies, gave early promise of a reckless course. It must have been +somewhat below its ordinary level, and averaged a breadth of about 80 +feet. Its waters were hard and transparent, and its bed was composed of +mountain debris, and large fragments of rock. As soon as the morning +dawned, the tents were struck and we pursued our journey. We followed the +line of the river, until we found ourselves in a deep bight to the S.E. +The hills that had been gradually closing in upon the river, now +approached it so nearly, that there was no room for the passage of the +drays. We were consequently obliged to turn back, and, moving along the +base of the ranges, by which we were thus apparently enclosed, we at +length found a steep pass, the extreme narrowness of which had hidden it +from our observation. By this pass we were now enabled to effect our +escape. On gaining the summit of the hills, we travelled south for three +or four miles, through open forests, and on level ground. But we +ultimately descended into a valley in which we halted for the night. On a +closer examination of the neighbourhood, it appeared that our position was +at the immediate junction of two valleys, where, uniting the waters of +their respective creeks, the main branch declines rapidly towards the +river. One of these valleys extended to to the S.W., the other to the +W.N.W. It was evident to us that our route lay up the former; and I made +no doubt we should easily reach Whaby's station on the morrow. + +ADJACENT COUNTRY. + +We were now far beyond the acknowledged limits of the located parts of the +colony, and Mr. Whaby's station was the last at which we could expect even +the casual supply of milk or other trifling relief. Yet, although the +prospect of so soon leaving even the outskirts of civilization, and being +wholly thrown on our own resources, was so near, it never for a moment +weighed upon the minds of the men. The novelty of the scenery, and the +beauty of the river on which they were journeying, excited in them the +liveliest anticipations of success. The facility with which we had +hitherto pushed forward blinded them to future difficulties, nor could +there be a more cheerful spectacle than that which the camp daily +afforded. The animals browzing in the distance, and the men talking over +their pipes of the probable adventures they might encounter. The loads +had by this time settled properly, and our provisions proved of the very +best quality, so that no possible improvement could have been made for the +better. + +WHABY'S STATION. + +On the morrow we pushed up the southernmost of the valleys, at the +junction of which we had encamped, having moderate hills on either side of +us. At the head of the valley we crossed a small dividing range into +another valley, and halted for the night, on the banks of a creek from the +westward, as we found it impossible to reach Whaby's station, as we had +intended, before sunset. Nothing could exceed the luxuriance of the +vegetation in this valley, but the water of the creek was so impregnated +with iron, as to be almost useless. Being anxious to obtain a view of the +surrounding country, I ascended a hill behind the camp, just as the sun +was sinking, a time the most favourable for the object I had in view. The +country, broken into hill and dale, seemed richer than any tract I had as +yet surveyed; and the beauty of the near landscape was greatly +heightened by the mountainous scenery to the S. and S.E. Both the +laxmania, and zanthorea were growing around me; but neither appeared to be +in congenial soil. The face of the hill was very stony, and I found, on +examination, that a great change had taken place in the rock-formation, +the granite ranges having given place to chlorite schist. + +We reached Whaby's about 9 a.m. of the morning of the 27th, and received +every attention and civility from him. The valley in which we had slept +opened upon an extensive plain, to the eastward of which the Morumbidgee +formed the extreme boundary; and it was in a bight, and on ground rather +elevated above the plain, that he had fixed his residence. He informed +me that we should have to cross the river, as its banks were too +precipitous, and the ranges too abrupt, to admit of our keeping the right +side; and recommended me to examine and fix upon a spot at which to cross, +before I again moved forward, expressing his readiness to accompany me as +a guide. We accordingly rode down the river, to a place at which some +stockman had effected a passage,--after a week's labour in hewing out a +canoe. I by no means intended that a similar delay should occur in our +case, but I saw no objection to our crossing at the same place; since its +depth, and consequent tranquillity, rendered it eligible enough for that +purpose. + +THE RIVER DUMOT. + +The Dumot river, another mountain stream, joins the Morumbidgee opposite +to Mr. Whaby's residence. It is little inferior to the latter either in +size or in the rapidity of its current, and, if I may rely on the +information I received, waters a finer country, the principal +rock-formation upon it being of limestone and whinstone. It rises amidst +the snowy ranges to the S.E., and its banks are better peopled than those +of the stream into which it discharges itself. Of course, such a tributary +enlarges the Morumbidgee considerably: indeed, the fact is sufficiently +evident from the appearance of the latter below the junction. + +During our ride with Whaby down its banks, we saw nothing but the richest +flats, almost entirely clear of timber and containing from 400 to 700 +acres, backed by ranges that were but partially wooded, and were clothed +with verdure to their very summits. The herds that were scattered over the +first were almost lost in the height of the vegetation, and the ranges +served as natural barriers to prevent them from straying away. + +CROSS AND RE-CROSS THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +On the following morning, we started for the place at which it had been +arranged that we should cross the Morumbidgee, but, though no more than +five miles in a direct line from Whaby's house, in consequence of the +irregularity of the ground, the drays did not reach it before noon. The +weight and quantity of our stores being taken into consideration, the task +we had before us was not a light one. Such, however, was the industry of +the men, that before it became dark the whole of them, including the drays +and sheep, were safely deposited on the opposite bank. We were enabled to +be thus expeditious, by means of a punt that we made with the tarpaulins +on an oblong frame. As soon as it was finished, a rope was conveyed across +the river, and secured to a tree, and a running cord being then fastened +to the punt, a temporary ferry was established, and the removal of our +stores rendered comparatively easy. M'Leay undertook to drive the horses +and cattle over a ford below us, but he did not calculate on the stubborn +disposition of the latter, and, consequently, experienced some difficulty, +and was well nigh swept away by the current. So great was his difficulty, +that he was obliged to land, to his great discomfiture, amidst a grove of +lofty nettles. Mulholland, who accompanied him, and who happened to be +naked, was severly stung by them. The labour of the day was, however, +satisfactorily concluded, and we lay down to rest with feelings of entire +satisfaction. + +A great part of the following day was consumed in reloading, nor did we +pursue our journey until after two o'clock. We then passed over tracks on +the left of the river of the same rich description that existed on its +right; they were much intersected by creeks, but were clear of timber, +and entirely out of the reach of floods. At about seven miles from where +we started, we found ourselves checked by precipitous rocks jutting into +the stream, and were obliged once more to make preparations for crossing +it. Instead of a deep and quiet reach, however, the Morumbidgee here +expanded into a fretful rapid; but it was sufficiently shallow to admit of +our taking the drays over, without the trouble of unloading them. There +was still, however, some labour required in cutting down the banks, and +the men were fully occupied until after sunset; and so well did they work, +that an hour's exertion in the morning enabled us to make the passage with +safety. On ascending the right bank, we found that we had to force +through a dense body of reeds, covering some flooded land, at the base of +a range terminating upon the river; and we were obliged, in order to +extricate ourselves from our embarrassments, to pass to the N.W. of the +point, and to cross a low part of the range. This done, we met with no +further interruptions during the day, but travelled along rich and clear +flats to a deep bight below an angle of the river called Nangaar by the +natives; where we pitched our camp, and our animals revelled amid the most +luxuriant pasture. Only in one place did the sandy superficies upon the +plain indicate that it was there subject to flood. + +The Morumbidgee from Juggiong to our present encampment had held a general +S.S.W. course, but from the summit of a hill behind the tents it now +appeared to be gradually sweeping round to the westward; and I could trace +the line of trees upon its banks, through a rich and extensive valley in +that direction, as far as my sight could reach. The country to the S.E. +maintained its lofty character, but to the westward the hills and ranges +were evidently decreasing in height, and the distant interior seemed fast +sinking to a level. The general direction of the ranges had been from N. +to S., and as we had been travelling parallel to them, their valleys were +shut from our view. Now, however, several rich and extensive ones became +visible, opening from the southward into the valley of the Morumbidgee, +and, as a further evidence of a change of country from a confused to a +more open one, a plain of considerable size stretched from immediately +beneath the hill on which I was to the N.W. + +GEOLOGY OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. + +The Morumbidgee itself, from the length and regularity of its reaches, as +well as from its increased size, seemed to intimate that it had +successfully struggled through the broken country in which it rises, and +that it would henceforward meet with fewer interruptions to its course. It +still, however, preserved all the characters of a mountain stream; having +alternate rapids and deep pools, being in many places encumbered with +fallen timber, and generally running over a shingly bed, composed of +rounded fragments of every rock of which the neighbouring ranges were +formed, and many others that had been swept by the torrents down it. The +rock formation of the hills upon its right continued of that chlorite +schist which prevailed near Mr. Whaby's, which I have already noticed, and +quartz still appeared in large masses, on the loftier ranges opposite, so +that the geology of the neighbourhood could not be said to have undergone +any material change. It might, however, be considered an extraordinary +feature in it, that a small hill of blue limestone existed upon the left +bank of the river. The last place at which we had seen limestone was at +Yass, but I had learned from Mr. Whaby, that, together with whinstone, it +was abundant near a Mr. Rose's station on the Dumot, that was not at any +great distance. The irregularity, however, of the intervening country, +made the appearance of this solitary rock more singular. + +Although the fires of the natives had been frequent upon the river, none +had, as yet, ventured to approach us, in consequence of some +misunderstanding that had taken place between them and Mr. Stuckey's +stockmen. Mr. Roberts' stockmen [these men had lately fixed themselves +on the river a little below Mr. Whaby's], however, brought a man and a boy +to us at this place in the afternoon, but I could not persuade them to +accompany us on our journey--neither could I, although my native boy +understood them perfectly, gain any particular information from them. + +In consequence of rain, we did not strike the tents so early as usual. +At 7 a.m. a heavy thunder storm occurred from the N.W. after which the +sky cleared, and we were enabled to push forward at 11 a.m., moving on a +general W.N.W, course, over rich flats, which, having been moistened by +the morning's showers, showed the dark colour of the rich earth of which +they were composed. Some sand-hills were, however, observed near the +river, of about fifteen feet in elevation, crowned by banksias; and the +soil of the flats had a very partial mixture of sand in it. How these +sand-hills could have been formed it is difficult to say; but they +produced little minor vegetation, and were as pure as the sand of the +sea-shore. Some considerable plains were noticed to our right, in +appearance not inferior to the ground on which we were journeying. At noon +we rose gradually from the level of these plains, and travelled along the +side of a hill, until we got to a small creek, at which we stopped, though +more than a mile and a half from the river. The clouds had been gathering +again in the N.W. quarter, and we had scarcely time to secure our flour, +when a second storm burst upon us, and it continued to rain violently for +the remainder of the day. + +BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT. + +From a small hill that lay to our left Mr. M'Leay and I enjoyed a most +beautiful view. Beneath us to the S. E. the rich and lightly timbered +valley through which the Morumbidgee flows, extended, and parts of the +river were visible through the dark masses of swamp-oak by which it was +lined, or glittering among the flooded-gum trees, that grew in its +vicinity. In the distance was an extensive valley that wound between +successive mountain ranges. More to the eastward, both mountain and +woodland bore a dark and gloomy shade, probably in consequence of the +light upon them at the time. Those lofty peaks that had borne nearly +south of us from Pouni, near Yass, now rose over the last-mentioned +ranges, and by their appearance seemed evidently to belong to a high and +rugged chain. To the westward, the decline of country was more observable +than ever; and the hills on both sides of the river, were lower and more +distant from it. Those upon which we found ourselves were composed of +iron-stone, were precipitous towards the river in many places, of sandy +soil, and were crowned with beef-wood as well as box. The change in the +rock-formation and in the soil, produced a corresponding change in the +vegetation. The timber was not so large as it had been, neither did the +hills any longer bear the green appearance which had distinguished those +we had passed to their very summits. The grass here grew in tufts amidst +the sand, and was of a burnt appearance as if it had suffered from +drought. + +NATIVES--THEIR SUFFERING FROM COLD. + +Some natives had joined us in the morning, and acted as our guides; or it +is more than probable that we should have continued our course along the +river, and got enbarrassed among impediments that were visible from our +elevated position; for it was evident that the range we had ascended +terminated in an abrupt precipice on the river, that we could not have +passed. The blacks suffered beyond what I could have imagined, from cold, +and seemed as incapable of enduring it as if they had experienced the +rigour of a northern snow storm. + +The morning of the 2nd December was cloudy and lowering, and the wind +still hung in the N.W. There was truly every appearance of bad weather, +but our anxiety to proceed on our journey overcame our apprehensions, +and the animals were loaded and moved off at 7 a.m. The rain which had +fallen the evening previous, rendered travelling heavy; so that we got on +but slowly. At 11, the clouds burst, and continued to pour down for the +rest of the day. On leaving the creek we crossed the spine of the range, +and descending from it into a valley, that continued to the river on the +one hand, and stretched away to the N.W. on the other, we ascended some +hills opposite to us, and moved generally through open, undulating forest +ground, affording good pasturage. + +SMOKING AN OPOSSUM. + +One of the blacks being anxious to get an opossum out of a dead tree, +every branch of which was hollow, asked for a tomahawk, with which be cut +a hole in the trunk above where he thought the animal lay concealed. He +found however, that he had cut too low, and that it had run higher up. +This made it necessary to smoke it out; he accordingly got some dry grass, +and having kindled a fire, stuffed it into the hole he had cut. A raging +fire soon kindled in the tree, where the draft was great, and dense +columns of smoke issued from the end of each branch as thick as that from +the chimney of a steam engine. The shell of the tree was so thin that I +thought it would soon be burnt through, and that the tree would fall; but +the black had no such fears, and, ascending to the highest branch, he +watched anxiously for the poor little wretch he had thus surrounded with +dangers and devoted to destruction; and no sooner did it appear, half +singed and half roasted, than he seized upon it and threw it down to +us with an air of triumph. The effect of the scene in so lonely a forest, +was very fine. The roaring of the fire in the tree, the fearless attitude +of the savage, and the associations which his colour and appearance, +enveloped as he was in smoke, called up, were singular, and still dwell +on my recollection. We had not long left the tree, when it fell with a +tremendous crash, and was, when we next passed that way, a mere heap of +ashes. + +ACCIDENTS. + +Shortly before it commenced raining, the dogs started an emu, and took +after it, followed by M'Leay and myself. We failed in killing it, and I +was unfortunate enough to lose a most excellent watch upon the occasion, +which in regularity was superior to the chronometer I had with me. + +As there was no hope of the weather clearing up, I sent M'Leay and one of +the blacks with the flour to the river, with directions to pile it up and +cover it with tarpaulins, as soon as possible, remaining myself to bring +up the drays. It was not, however, until after 4 p.m. that we gained the +river-side, or that we were enabled to get into shelter. Fraser met with a +sad accident while assisting the driver of the teams, who, accidentally, +struck him with the end of the lash of his whip in the eye, and cut the +lower lid in two. The poor fellow fell to the ground as if he had been +shot, and really, from the report of the whip, I was at first uncertain +of the nature of the accident. + +PONDEBADGERY. + +We had gradually ascended some hills; and as the sweep of the valley led +southerly, we continued along it until we got to its very head; then, +crossing the ridge we descended the opposite side, towards a beautiful +plain, on the further extremity of which the river line was marked by the +dark-leafed casuarina. In spite of the badness of the weather and the +misfortunes of the day, I could not but admire the beauty of the scene. +We were obliged to remain stationary the following day, in consequence +of one of the drays being out of repair, and requiring a new axle-tree. +I could hardly regret the necessity that kept us in so delightful a spot. +This plain, which the natives called Pondebadgery, and in which a station +has since been formed, is about two miles in breadth, by about three and +a-half in length. It is surrounded apparently on every side by hills. The +river running E. and W. forms its southern boundary. The hills by which we +had entered it, terminating abruptly on the river to the north-east, form +a semi-circle round it to the N.N.W. where a valley, the end of which +cannot be seen, runs to the north-west, of about half a mile in breadth. +On the opposite side of the river moderate hills rise over each other, and +leave little space between them and its banks. The Morumbidgee itself, +with an increased breadth, averaging from seventy to eighty yards, +presents a still, deep sheet of water to the view, over which the +casuarina bends with all the grace of the willow, or the birch, but with +more sombre foliage. To the west, a high line of flooded-gum trees +extending from the river to the base of the hills which form the west side +of the valley before noticed, hides the near elevations, and thus shuts in +the whole space. The soil of the plain is of the richest description, and +the hills backing it, together with the valley, are capable of depasturing +the most extensive flocks. + +Such is the general landscape from the centre of Pondebadgery Plain. +Behind the line of gum-trees, the river suddenly sweeps away to the south, +and forms a deep bight of seven miles, when, bearing up again to the N.W. +it meets some hills about 10 miles to the W.N.W. of the plain, thus +encircling a still more extensive space, that for richness of soil, and +for abundance of pasture, can nowhere be excelled; such, though on a +smaller scale, are all the flats that adorn the banks of the Morumbidgee, +first on one side and then on the other, as the hills close in upon them, +from Juggiong to Pondebadgery. + +TRAVELLING DOWN THE RIVER. + +It is deeply to be regretted that this noble river should exist at such a +distance from the capital as to be unavailable. During our stay on the +Pondebadgery Plain, the men caught a number of codfish, as they are +generally termed, but which are, in reality, a species of perch. The +largest weighed 401b. but the majority of the others were small, not +exceeding from six to eight. M'Leay and I walked to the N.W. extremity of +the plain, in order to ascertain how we should debouche from it, and to +get, if possible, a view of the western interior. We took with us two +blacks who had attached themselves to the party, and had made themselves +generally useful. On ascending the most westerly of the hills, we found it +composed of micaceous schist, the upper coat of which was extremely soft, +and broke with a slaty fracture, or crumbled into a sparkling dust beneath +our feet. The summit of the hill was barren, and beef-wood alone grew on +it. The valley, of which it was the western boundary, ran up northerly for +two or three miles, with all the appearance of richness and verdure. To +the south extended the flat I have noticed, more heavily timbered than we +had usually found them, bounded, or backed rather, by a hilly country, +although one fast losing in its general height. To the W.N.W. there was a +moderate range of hills on the opposite side of an extensive valley, +running up northerly, from which a lateral branch swept round to the +W.N.W. with a gradual ascent into the hills, which bore the same +appearance of open forest, grazing land, as prevailed in similar tracts to +the eastward. The blacks pointed out to us our route up the valley, and +stated that we should get on the banks of the river again in a direction +W. by N. from the place on which we stood. We accordingly crossed the +principal valley on the following morning, and gradually ascended the +opposite line of hills. They terminate to the S.E. in lofty precipices, +overlooking the river flats, and having a deep chain of ponds under them. +The descent towards the river was abrupt, and we encamped upon its banks, +with a more confined view than any we had ever had before. There was an +evident change in the river; the banks were reedy, the channel deep and +muddy, and the neighbourhood bore more the appearance of being subject to +overflow than it had done in any one place we had passed over. The hills +were much lower, and as we gained the southern brow of that under which we +encamped, we could see a level and wooded country to the westward. The +line of the horizon was unbroken by any hills in the distance, and the +nearer ones seemed gradually to lose themselves in the darkness of the +landscape. + +The two natives, whom the stockmen had named Peter and Jemmie, were of +infinite service to us, from their knowledge of all the passes, and the +general features of the country. Having, however, seen us thus far on the +journey from their usual haunts, they became anxious to return, and it was +with some difficulty we persuaded them to accompany us for a few days +longer, in hopes of reward. The weather had been cool and pleasant; the +thermometer averaging 78 of Fahrenheit at noon, in consequences of which +the animals kept in good condition, the men healthy and zealous. The sheep +Mr. O'Brien had presented to us, gave no additional trouble; they followed +in the rear of the party without attempting to wander, and were secured at +night in a small pen or fold. No waste attended their slaughter, nor did +they lose in condition, from being driven from ten to fifteen miles daily, +so much as I had been led to suppose they would have done. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + +Character of the Morumbidgee where it issues from the hilly country-- +Appearance of approach to swamps--Hamilton Plains--Intercourse with the +natives--Their appearance, customs, &c.--Change in the character of the +river--Mirage--Dreariness of the country--Ride towards the Lachlan river +--Two boats built and launched on the Morumbidgee; and the drays, with +part of the men sent back to Goulburn Plains. + +NATIVES--WILD GAME,&c.; CHARACTER OF THE RIVER AND THE ADJOINING COUNTRY. + +From our camp, the Morumbidgee held a direct westerly course for about +three miles. The hills under which we had encamped, rose so close upon our +right as to leave little space between them and the river. At the distance +of three miles, however, they suddenly terminated, and the river changed +its direction to the S.W., while a chain of ponds extended to the +westward, and separated the alluvial flats from a somewhat more elevated +plain before us. We kept these ponds upon our left for some time, but, as +they ultimately followed the bend of the river, we left them. The blacks +led us on a W. by S. course to the base of a small range two or three +miles distant, near which there was a deep lagoon. It was evident they +here expected to have found some other natives. Being disappointed, +however, they turned in towards the river again, but we stopped short of +it on the side of a serpentine sheet of water, an apparent continuation of +the chain of ponds we had left behind us, forming a kind of ditch round +the S.W. extremity of the range, parallel to which we had continued to +travel. This range, which had been gradually decreasing in height from the +lagoon, above which it rose perpendicularly, might almost be said to +terminate here. We fell in with two or three natives before we halted, but +the evident want of population in so fine a country, and on so noble a +river, surprised me extremely. We saw several red kangaroos in the course +of the day, and succeeded in killing one. It certainly is a beautiful +animal, ranging the wilds in native freedom. The female and the kid are of +a light mouse-colour. Wild turkeys abound on this part of the Morumbidgee, +but with the exception of a few terns, which are found hovering over the +lagoons, no new birds had as yet been procured; and the only plant that +enriched our collection, was an unknown metrosideros. In crossing the +extremity of the range, the wheels of the dray sunk deep into a yielding +and coarse sandy soil, of decomposed granite, on which forest-grass +prevailed in tufts, which, being far apart, made the ground uneven, and +caused the animals to trip. We rose at one time sufficiently high to +obtain an extensive view, and had our opinions confirmed as to the level +nature of the country we were so rapidly approaching. From the N. to +the W.S.W. the eye wandered over a wooded and unbroken interior, if I +except a solitary double hill that rose in the midst of it, bearing +S. 82 degrees W. distant 12 miles, and another singular elevation that +bore S. 32 degrees W. called by the natives, Kengal. The appearance to the +E.S.E. was still that of a mountainous country, while from the N.E., the +hills gradually decrease in height, until lost in the darkness of +surrounding objects to the northward. We did not travel this day more than +13 miles on a W. by N. course. The Morumbidgee, where we struck it, by its +increased size, kept alive our anticipations of its ultimately leading us +to some important point. The partial rains that had fallen while we were +on its upper branch, had swollen it considerably, and it now rolled along +a vast body of water at the rate of three miles an hour, preserving a +medium width of 150 feet; its banks retaining a height far above the usual +level of the stream. A traveller who had never before descended into the +interior of New Holland, would have spurned the idea of such a river +terminating in marshes; but with the experience of the former journey, +strong as hope was within my breast, I still feared it might lose itself +in the vast flat upon which we could scarcely be said to have yet entered. +The country was indeed taking up more and more every day the features of +the N.W. interior. Cypresses were observed upon the minor ridges, and the +soil near the river, although still rich, and certainly more extensive +than above, was occasionally mixed with sand, and scattered over with the +claws of crayfish and shells, indicating its greater liability to be +flooded; nor indeed could I entertain a doubt that the river had laid a +great part of the levels around us under water long after it found that +channel in which nature intended ultimately to confine it. We killed +another fine red kangaroo in the early part of the day, in galloping after +which I got a heavy fall. + +The two blacks who had been with us so long, and who had not only exerted +themselves to assist us, but had contributed in no small degree to our +amusement, though they had from M'Leay's liberality, tasted all the +dainties with which we had provided ourselves, from sugar to concentrated +cayenne, intimated that they could no longer accompany the party. They had +probably got to the extremity of their beat, and dared not venture any +further. They left us with evident regret, receiving, on their departure, +several valuable presents, in the shape of tomahawks &c. The last thing +they did was to point out the way to us, and to promise to join us on our +return, although they evidently little anticipated ever seeing us again. + +In pursuing our journey, we entered a forest, consisting of box-trees, +casuarinae, and cypresses, on a light sandy soil, in which both horses and +bullocks sunk so deep that their labour was greatly increased, more +especially as the weather had become much warmer. At noon I altered my +course from N.W. by W. to W.N.W., and reached the Morumbidgee at 3 in the +afternoon. The flats bordering it were extensive and rich, and, being +partially mixed with sand, were more fitted for agricultural purposes than +the stiffer and purer soil amidst the mountains; but the interior beyond +them was far from being of corresponding quality. We crossed several +plains on which vegetation was scanty, probably owing to the hardness of +the soil, which was a stiff loamy clay, and which must check the growth of +plants, by preventing the roots from striking freely into it. The river +where we stopped for the night appeared to have risen considerably, and +the fish were rolling about on the surface of the water with a noise like +porpoises. No elevations were visible, so that I had not an opportunity of +continuing the chain of survey with the points I had previously taken. + +TRAVELLING DOWN THE RIVER. + +As we proceeded down the river on the 8th, the flats became still more +extensive than they had ever been, and might almost be denominated plains. +Vegetation was scanty upon them, although the soil was of the first +quality. About nine miles from our camp, we struck on a small isolated +hill, that could scarcely have been of 200 feet elevation; yet, depressed +as it was, the view from its summit was very extensive, and I was +surprised to find that we were still in some measure surrounded by high +lands, of which I took the following bearings, connected with the present +ones. + +A High Peak.....N. 66 E. distance 40 miles. +Kengal ........ N. 110 E. distant. +Double Hill ... S. 10 W. distant. + +To the north, there were several fires burning, which appeared rather the +fires of natives, than conflagrations, and as the river had made a bend to +the N.N.W., I doubted not that they were upon its banks. From this hill, +which was of compact granite, we struck away to the W.N.W., and shortly +afterwards crossed some remarkable sand-hills. Figuratively speaking, they +appeared like islands amidst the alluvial deposits, and were as pure in +their composition as the sand on the sea-shore. They were generally +covered with forest grass, in tufts, and a coarse kind of rushes, under +banksias and cypresses. We found a small fire on the banks of the river, +and close to it the couch and hut of a solitary native, who had probably +seen us approach, and had fled. There cannot be many inhabitants +hereabouts, since there are no paths to indicate that they frequent this +part of the Morumbidgee more at one season than another. + +On the 9th, the river fell off again to the westward, and we lost a good +deal of the northing we had made the day before. We journeyed pretty +nearly equidistant from the stream, and kept altogether on the alluvial +flats. As we were wandering along the banks of the river, a black started +up before us, and swam across to the opposite side, where he immediately +hid himself. We could by no means induce him to show himself; he was +probably the lonely being whom we had scared away from the fire the day +before. In the afternoon, however we surprised a family of six natives, +and persuaded them to follow us to our halting place. My boy understood +them well; but the young savage had the cunning to hide the information +they gave him, or, for aught I know, to ask questions that best suited his +own purposes, and therefore we gained little intelligence from them. + +Every day now produced some change in the face of the country, by which it +became more and more assimilated to that I had traversed during the first +expedition. Acacia pendula now made its appearance on several plains +beyond the river deposits, as well as that salsolaceous class of plants, +among which the schlerolina and rhagodia are so remarkable. The natives +left us at sunset, but returned early in the morning with an extremely +facetious and good-humoured old man, who volunteered to act as our guide +without the least hesitation. There was a cheerfulness in his manner, +that gained our confidence at once, and rendered him a general favourite. +He went in front with the dogs, and led us a little away from the river +to kill kangaroos, as he said. At about two miles we struck on an +inconsiderable elevation, which the party crossed at the S.W. extremity. +I ascended it at the opposite end, but although the view was extensive, I +could not make out the little hill of granite from which I had taken my +former bearings, and the only elevation I could recognise as connected +with them, was one about ten miles distant, bearing S. 168 W. I could +observe very distant ranges to the E.N.E. and immediately below me in that +direction, there was a large clear plain, skirted by acacia pendula, +stretching from S.S.E. to N.N.W. The crown and ridges of the hill on which +I stood, were barren, stony, and covered with beef-wood, +the rock-formation being a coarse granite. The drays had got so far ahead +of me that I did not overtake them before they had halted on the river at +a distance of ten miles. + +INFORMATION FROM A NATIVE. + +The Morumbidgee appeared, on examination, to have increased in breadth, +and continued to rise gradually. It is certainly a noble stream, very +different from those I had already traced to their termination. The old +black informed me that there was another large river flowing to the +southward of west, to which the Morumbidgee was as a creek, and that we +could gain it in four days. He stated that its waters were good, but that +its banks were not peopled. That such a feature existed where he laid it +down, I thought extremely probable, because it was only natural to expect +that other streams descended from the mountains in the S.E. of the island, +as well as that on which we were travelling. The question was, whether +either of them held on an uninterrupted course to some reservoir, or +whether they fell short of the coast and exhausted themselves in marshes. +Considering the concave direction of the mountains to the S.E., I even +at this time hoped that the rivers falling into the interior would unite +sooner or later, and contribute to the formation of an important and +navigable stream. Of the fate of the Morumbidgee, the old black could give +no account. It seemed probable, therefore, that we were far from its +termination. + +I had hitherto been rather severe upon the animals, for although our +journey had not exceeded from twelve to fifteen miles a day, it had been +without intermission. I determined, therefore, to give both men and +animals a day of rest, as soon as I should find a convenient place. We +started on the 11th with this intention, but we managed to creep over +eight or ten miles of ground before we halted. The country was slightly +undulated, and much intersected by creeks, few of which had water in them. +The whole tract was, however, well adapted either for agriculture, or +for grazing, and, in spite of the drought that had evidently long hung +over it, was well covered with vegetation. We had passed all high lands, +and the interior to the westward presented an unbroken level to the eye. +The Morumbidgee appeared to hold a more northerly course than I had +anticipated. Still low ranges continued upon our right, and the cypress +ridges became more frequent and denser; but the timber on the more open +grounds generally consisted of box and flooded-gum. Of minor trees, the +acacia pendula was the most prevalent, with a shrub bearing a round nut, +enclosed in a scarlet capsule, and an interesting species of stenochylus. +I had observed as yet, few of the plants of the more northern interior. + +NATIVES--THEIR UGLINESS. + +In this neighbourhood, the dogs killed an emu and a kangaroo, which came +in very conveniently for some natives whom we fell in with on one of the +river flats. They were, without exception, the worst featured of any I had +ever seen. It is scarcely possible to conceive that human beings could +be so hideous and loathsome. The old black, who was rather good-looking, +told me they were the last we should see for some time, and I felt that if +these were samples of the natives on the lowlands, I cared very little how +few of I them we should meet. + +EXTENSIVE PLAINS. + +The country on the opposite side of the river had all the features of that +to the north of it, but a plain of such extent suddenly opened upon us to +the southward, that I halted at once in order to examine it, and by +availing myself of a day of rest, to fix our position more truly than we +could otherwise have done. We accordingly pitched our tents under some +lofty gum-trees, opposite to the plain, and close upon the edge of the +sandy beach of the river. Before they were turned out, the animals were +carefully examined, and the pack-saddles overhauled, that they might +undergo any necessary repairs. The river fell considerably during the +night, but it poured along a vast body of water, possessing a strong +current. The only change I remarked in it was that it now had a bed of +sand, and was generally deeper on one side than on the other. It kept a +very uniform breadth of from 150 to 170 feet--and a depth of from 4 to 20. +Its channel, though occasionally much encumbered with fallen timber, was +large enough to contain twice the volume of water then in it, but it had +outer and more distant banks, the boundaries of the alluvial flats, to +confine it within certain limits, during the most violent floods, and to +prevent its inundating the country. + +HAMILTON'S PLAINS. + +With a view to examine the plain opposite to us, I directed our horses to +be taken across the river early in the morning, and after breakfast, +M'Leay and I swam across after them. We found the current strong, and +could not keep a direct line over the channel, but were carried below the +place at which we plunged in. We proceeded afterwards in a direction +W.S.W. across the plain for five or six miles, before we saw trees on the +opposite extremity, at a still greater distance. We thus found ourselves +in the centre of an area of from 26 to 30 miles. It appeared to be +perfectly level, though not really so. The soil upon it was good, +excepting in isolated spots, where it was sandy. Vegetation was scanty +upon it, but, on the whole, I should conclude that it was fitter for +agriculture than for grazing. For I think it very probable, that those +lands which lie hardening and bare in a state of nature, would produce +abundantly if broken up by the plough. I called this Hamilton's plains, +in remembrance of the surgeon of my regiment. The Morumbidgee forms its +N.E. boundary, and a creek rising on it, cuts off a third part on the +western side, and runs away from the river in a southerly direction. This +creek, even before it gets to the outskirts of the plains, assumes a +considerable size. Such a fact would argue that heavy rains fall in this +part of the interior, to cut out such a watercourse, or that the soil is +extremely loose; but I should think the former the most probable, since +the soil of this plain had a substratum of clay. I place our encampment on +the river in latitude 34 degrees 41 minutes 45 seconds S., and in East +longitude 146 degrees 50 minutes, the variation of the compass being +6 degrees 10 minutes E. + +INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES; SCANTINESS OF THE POPULATION. + +On our return to the camp we found several natives with our people, and +among them one of the tallest I had ever seen. Their women were with them, +and they appeared to have lost all apprehension of any danger occurring +from us. The animals were benefited greatly by this day of rest. We left +the plain, therefore, on the 13th with renewed spirits, and passed over a +country very similar to that by which we had approached it, one well +adapted for grazing, but intersected by numerous creeks, at two of which +we found natives, some of whom joined our party. Our old friend left us in +quest of some blacks, who, as he informed Hopkinson, had seen the tracks +of our horses on the Darling. I was truly puzzled at such a statement, +which was, however, further corroborated by the circumstance of one of the +natives having a tire-nail affixed to a spear, which he said was picked +up, by the man who gave it to him, on one of our encampments. I could not +think it likely that this story was true, and rather imagined they must +have picked up the nail near the located districts, and I was anxious to +have the point cleared up. When we halted we had a large assemblage of +natives with us, amounting in all to twenty-seven, but I awaited in vain +the return of the old man. The night passed away without our seeing him, +nor did he again join us. + +We started in the morning with our new acquaintances, and kept on a +south-westerly course during the day, over an excellent grazing, and, in +many places, an agricultural country, still intersected by creeks, that +were too deep for the water to have dried in them. The country more +remote from the river, however, began to assume more and more the +character and appearance of the northern interior. I rode into several +plains, the soil of which was either a red sandy loam, bare of vegetation, +or a rotten and blistered earth, producing nothing but rhagodiae, +salsolae, and misembrianthemum. + +We fell in with another tribe of blacks during the journey, to whom we +were literally consigned by those who had been previously with us, and who +now turned back, while our new friends took the lead of the drays. They +were two fine young men, but had very ugly wives, and were for a long time +extremely diffident. I found that I could obtain but little information +through my black boy,--whether from his not understanding me, or because +he was too cunning, is uncertain. One of these young men, however, +clearly stated that he had seen the tracks of bullocks and horses, a long +time ago, to the N.N.W. in the direction of some detached hills, that were +visible from 20 to 25 miles distant. He remembered them, he said, as a +boy, and added that the white men were without water. It was, therefore, +clear that he alluded to Mr. Oxley's excursion, northerly from the +Lachlan, and I had no doubt on my mind, that he had been on one of that +officer's encampments, and that the hills to the north of us were those +to the opposite base of which he had penetrated. I was determined, +therefore, if practicable, to reach these hills, deeming it a matter of +great importance to connect the surveys, but I deferred my journey for a +day or two, in hopes, from the continued northerly course of the river, +that we should have approached them nearer. + +In the evening we fell in with some more blacks, among whom were two +brothers, of those who were acting as our guides. One had a very pretty +girl as a wife, and all the four brothers were very good-looking young +men. There cannot, I should think, be a numerous population on the banks +of the Morumbidgee, from the fact of our having seen not more than fifty +in an extent of more than 180 miles. They are apparently scattered along +it in families. I was rather surprised that my boy understood their +language well, since it certainly differed from that of the Macquarie +tribes, but nevertheless as these people do not wander far, our +information as to what was before us was very gradually arrived at, and +only as we fell in with the successive families. Moreover, as my boy +was very young, it may be that he was more eager in communicating to those +who had no idea of them, the wonders he had seen, than in making inquiries +on points that were indifferent to him. + +CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. + +We passed a very large plain in the course of the day, which was bounded +by forests of box, cypress, and the acacia pendula, of red sandy soil and +parched appearance. The Morumbidgee evidently overflows a part of the +lands we crossed, to a greater extent than heretofore, though the alluvial +deposits beyond its influence were still both rich and extensive. The +crested pigeon made its appearance on the acacias, which I took to be a +sure sign of our approach to a country more than ordinarily subject to +overflow; since on the Macquarie and the Darling, those birds were found +only to inhabit the regions of marshes, or spaces covered by the acacia +pendula, or the polygonum. We had not, however, yet seen any of the latter +plant, although we were shortly destined to be almost lost amidst fields +of it. + +CHANGE IN THE COUNTRY. + + +We were now approaching that parallel of longitude in which the other +known rivers of New Holland had been found to exhaust themselves; the +least change therefore, for the worse was sufficient to raise my +apprehensions; yet, although the Morumbidgee had received no tributary +from the Dumot downwards, and was leading us into an apparently endless +level, I saw no indication of its decreasing in size, or in the rapidity +of its current. Certainly, however, I had, from the character of the +country around us, an anticipation that a change was about to take place +in it, and this anticipation was verified in the course of the following +day. The alluvial flats gradually decreased in breadth, and we journeyed +mostly over extensive and barren plains, which in many places approached +so near the river as to form a part of its bank. They were covered with +the salsolaceous class of plants, so common in the interior, in a red +sandy soil, and were as even as a bowling green. The alluvial spaces near +the river became covered with reeds, and, though subject to overflow at +every partial rise of it, were so extremely small as scarcely to afford +food for our cattle. Flooded-gum trees of lofty size grew on these reedy +spaces, and marked the line of the river, but the timber of the interior +appeared stunted and useless. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES; MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES. + +We found this part of the Morumbidgee much more populous than its upper +branches. When we halted, we had no fewer than forty-one natives with us, +of whom the young men were the least numerous. They allowed us to choose +a place for ourselves before they formed their own camp, and studiously +avoided encroaching on our ground so as to appear troublesome. Their +manners were those of a quiet and inoffensive people, and their appearance +in some measure prepossessing. The old men had lofty foreheads, and stood +exceedingly erect. The young men were cleaner is their persons and were +better featured than any we had seen, some of them having smooth hair and +an almost Asiatic cast of countenance. On the other hand, the women and +children were disgusting objects. The latter were much subject to +diseases, and were dreadfully emaciated. It is evident that numbers of +them die in their infancy for want of care and nourishment. We remarked +none at the age of incipient puberty, but the most of them under six. In +stating that the men were more prepossessing than any we had seen, I would +not be understood to mean that they differed in any material point either +from the natives of the coast, or of the most distant interior to which I +had been, for they were decidedly the same race, and had the same leading +features and customs, as far as the latter could be observed. The sunken +eye and overhanging eyebrow, the high cheek-bone and thick lip, distended +nostrils, the nose either short or acquiline, together with a stout bust +and slender extremities, and both curled and smooth hair, marked the +natives of the Morumbidgee as well as those of the Darling. They were +evidently sprung from one common stock, the savage and scattered +inhabitants of a rude and inhospitable land. In customs they differed in +no material point from the coast natives, and still less from the tribes +on the Darling and the Castlereagh. They extract the front tooth, +lacerate their bodies, to raise the flesh, cicatrices being their chief +ornament; procure food by the same means, paint in the same manner, and +use the same weapons, as far as the productions of the country will allow +them. But as the grass-tree is not found westward of the mountains, they +make a light spear of a reed, similar to that of which the natives of the +southern islands form their arrows. These they use for distant combat, and +not only carry in numbers, but throw with the boomerang to a great +distance and with unerring precision, making them to all intents and +purposes as efficient as the bow and arrow. They have a ponderous spear +for close fight, and others of different sizes for the chase. With regard +to their laws, I believe they are universally the same all over the known +parts of New South Wales. The old men have alone the privilege of eating +the emu; and so submissive are the young men to this regulation, that if, +from absolute hunger or under other pressing circumstances, one of them +breaks through it, either during a hunting excursion, or whilst absent +from his tribe, he returns under a feeling of conscious guilt, and by his +manner betrays his guilt, sitting apart from the men, and confessing his +misdemeanour to the chief at the first interrogation, upon which he is +obliged to undergo a slight punishment. This evidently is a law of policy +and necessity, for if the emus were allowed to be indiscriminately +slaughtered, they would soon become extinct. Civilised nations may learn a +wholesome lesson even from savages, as in this instance of their +forebearance. For somewhat similar reasons, perhaps, married people alone +are here permitted to eat ducks. They hold their corrobories, +(midnight ceremonies), and sing the same melancholy ditty that breaks the +stillness of night on the shores of Jervis' Bay, or on the banks of the +Macquarie; and during the ceremony imitate the several birds and beasts +with which they are acquainted. If these inland tribes differ in anything +from those on the coast, it is in the mode of burying their dead, and, +partially, in their language. Like all savages, they consider their women +as secondary objects, oblige them to procure their own food, or throw to +them over their shoulders the bones they have already picked, with a +nonchalance that is extremely amusing; and, on the march, make them beasts +of burden to carry their very weapons. The population of the Morumbidgee, +as far as we had descended it at this time, did not exceed from ninety to +a hundred souls. I am persuaded that disease and accidents consign many of +them to a premature grave. + +MIRAGE. + +From this camp, one family only accompanied us. We journeyed due west over +plains of great extent. The soil upon them was soft and yielding, in some +places being a kind of light earth covered with rhagodiae, in others a +red tenacious clay, overrun by the misembrianthemum and salsolae. +Nothing could exceed the apparent barrenness of these plains, or the +cheerlessness of the landscape. We had left all high lands behind us, and +were now on an extensive plain, bounded in the distance by low trees or by +dark lines of cypresses. The lofty gum-trees on the river followed its +windings, and, as we opened the points, they appeared, from the peculiar +effect of a mirage, as bold promontories jutting into the ocean, having +literally the blue tint of distance. This mirage floated in a light +tremulous vapour on the ground, and not only deceived us with regard to +the extent of the plains, and the appearance of objects, but hid the +trees, in fact, from our view altogether; so that, in moving, as we +imagined, upon the very point or angle of the river, we found as we neared +it, that the trees stretched much further into the plain, and were obliged +to alter our course to round them. The heated state of the atmosphere, and +the sandy nature of the country could alone have caused a mirage so +striking in its effects, as this,--exceeding considerably similar +appearances noticed during the first expedition. The travelling was so +heavy, that I was obliged to make a short day's journey, and when we +struck the river for the purpose of halting, it had fallen off very much +in appearance, and was evidently much contracted, with low banks and a +sandy bed. It was difficult to account for this sudden change, but when +I gazed on the extent of level country before me, I began to dread that +this hitherto beautiful stream would ultimately disappoint us. + +EXCURSION TOWARDS A RIDGE OF HILLS. + +I had deferred my intended excursion to the hills under which I imagined +Mr. Oxley had encamped, until we were out of sight of them, and I now +feared that it was almost too late to undertake it, but I was still +anxious to determine a point in which I felt considerable interest. I was +the more desirous of surveying the country to the northward, because of +the apparent eagerness with which the natives had caught at the word +Colare, which I recollected having heard a black on the Macquarie make +use of in speaking of the Lachlan. They pointed to the N.N.W., and making +a sweep with the arm raised towards the sky, seemed to intimate that a +large sheet of water existed in that direction; and added that it +communicated with the Morumbidgee more to the westward. This information +confirmed still more my impressions with regard to Mr. Oxley's line of +route; and, as I found a ready volunteer in M'Leay, I gave the party in +charge to Harris until I should rejoin him, and turned back towards the +hills, with the intention of reaching them if possible. No doubt we should +have done so had it not been for the nature of the ground over which we +travelled, and the impossibility of our exceeding a walk. We rode to a +distance of 18 miles, but still found ourselves far short of the hills, +and therefore gave up the point. I considered, however, that we were about +the same distance to the south, as Mr. Oxley had been to the north of +them, and in taking bearings of the highest points, I afterwards found +that they exactly tallied with his bearings, supposing him to have taken +them from his camp. + +QUIET DEMEANOUR OF THE NATIVES. + +On our way to the river, we Passed through some dense bushes of casuarinae +and cypresses, to the outskirts of the plains through which the +Morumbidgee winds. We reached the camp two or three hours after sunset, +and found it crowded with natives to the number of 60. They were extremely +quiet and inoffensive in their demeanour, and asked us to point out where +they might sleep, before they ventured to kindle their fires. One old man, +we remarked, had a club foot, and another was blind, but, as far as we +could judge from the glare of the fires, the generality of them were fine +young men, and supported themselves in a very erect posture when standing +or walking. There were many children with the women, among whom colds +seemed to prevail. It blew heavily from the N.W. during the night, and a +little rain fell in the early part of the morning. Our route during the +day, was over as melancholy a tract as ever was travelled. The plains to +the N. and N.W. bounded the horizon; not a tree of any kind was visible +upon them. It was equally open to the S., and it appeared as if the river +was decoying us into a desert, there to leave us in difficulty and in +distress. The very mirage had the effect of boundlessness in it, by +blending objects in one general hue; or, playing on the ground, it cheated +us with an appearance of water, and on arriving at the spot, we found a +continuation of the same scorching plain, over which we were moving, +instead of the stream we had hoped for. + +The cattle about this time began to suffer, and, anxious as I was to push +on, I was obliged to shorten my journeys, according to circumstances. +Amidst the desolation around us, the river kept alive our hopes. If it +traversed deserts, it might reach fertile lands, and it was to the issue +of the journey that we had to look for success. It here, however, +evidently overflowed its banks more extensively than heretofore, and +broad belts of reeds were visible on either side of it, on which the +animals exclusively subsisted. Most of the natives had followed us, and +their patience and abstinence surprised me exceedingly. Some of them had +been more than twenty-four hours without food, and yet seemed as little +disposed to seek it as ever. I really thought they expected me to supply +their wants, but as I could not act so liberal a scale, George M'Leay +undeceived them; after which they betook themselves to the river, and got +a supply of muscles. I rather think their going so frequently into the +water engenders a catarrh, or renders them more liable to it than they +otherwise would be. In the afternoon the wind shifted to the S.W. It blew +a hurricane; and the temperature of the air was extremely low. The natives +felt the cold beyond belief and kindled large fires. In the morning, when +we moved away, the most of them started with fire-sticks to keep +themselves warm; but they dropped off one by one, and at noon we found +ourselves totally deserted. + +DREARINESS OF THE LANDSCAPE. + +It is impossible for me to describe the kind of country we were now +traversing, or the dreariness of the view it presented. The plains were +still open to the horizon, but here and there a stunted gum-tree, or a +gloomy cypress, seemed placed by nature as mourners over the surrounding +desolation. Neither beast nor bird inhabited these lonely and inhospitable +regions, over which the silence of the grave seemed to reign. We had not, +for days past, seen a blade of grass, so that the animals could not have +been in very good condition. We pushed on, however, sixteen miles, in +consequence of the coolness of the weather. We observed little change in +the river in that distance, excepting that it had taken up a muddy bottom, +and lost all the sand that used to fill it. The soil and productions on +the plains continued unchanged in every respect. From this time to the +22nd, the country presented the same aspect. Occasional groups of cypress +showed themselves on narrow sandy ridges, or partial brushes extended from +the river, consisting chiefly of the acacia pendula, the stenochylus, +and the nut I have already noticed. The soil on which they grew was, if +possible, worse than that of the barren plain which we were traversing; +and their colour and drooping state rendered the desolate landscape still +more dreary. + +On the 21st, we found the same singular substance(gypsum) embedded in the +bank of the river that had been collected, during the former expedition, +on the banks of the Darling; and hope, which is always uppermost in the +human breast, induced me to think that we were fast approaching that +stream. My observations placed me in 34 degrees 17 minutes 15 seconds +S. and 145 degrees of E. longitude. + +BLACK BOY DESERTS. + +On the 22nd, my black boy deserted me. I was not surprised at his doing +so, neither did I regret his loss, for he had been of little use under any +circumstances. He was far too cunning for our purpose. I know not that the +term ingratitude can be applied to one in his situation, and in whose +bosom nature had implanted a love of freedom. We learnt from four blacks, +with whom he had spoken, and who came to us in the afternoon, that he had +gone up the river,--as I conjectured, to the last large tribe we had left, +with whom he appeared to become very intimate. + +A creek coming from the N.N.W. here fell into the Morumbidgee; a proof +that the general decline of country was really to the south, although a +person looking over it would have supposed the contrary. + +COUNTRY SUBJECT TO INUNDATION. + +We started on the 23rd, with the same boundlessness of plain on either +side of us; but in the course of the morning a change took place, both in +soil and productions; and from the red sandy loam, and salsolaceous +plants, amidst which we had been toiling, we got upon a light tenacious +and blistered soil, evidently subject to frequent overflow, and fields of +polygonum junceum, amidst which, both the crested pigeon and the black +quail were numerous. The drays and animals sank so deep in this, that we +were obliged to make for the river, and keep upon its immediate banks. +Still, with all the appearance of far-spread inundation, it continued +undiminished in size, and apparently in the strength of its current. +Its channel was deeper than near the mountains, but its breadth was about +the same. + +On the 24th, we were again entangled amidst fields of polygonum, through +which we laboured until after eleven, when we gained a firmer soil. Some +cypresses appeared upon our right, in a dark line, and I indulged hopes +that a change was about to take place in the nature of the country. We +soon, however, got on a light rotten earth, and were again obliged to make +for the river, with the teams completely exhausted. We had not travelled +many miles from our last camp, yet it struck me, that the river had +fallen off in appearance. I examined it with feelings of intense anxiety, +certain, as I was, that the flooded spaces, over which we had been +travelling would, sooner or later, be succeeded by a country overgrown +with reeds. The river evidently overflowed its banks, on both sides, +for many miles, nor had I a doubt that, at some periods, the space +northward, between it and the Lachlan, presented the appearance of one +vast sea. The flats of polygonum stretched away to the N.W. to an amazing +distance, as well as in a southerly direction, and the very nature of the +soil bore testimony to its flooded origin. But the most unaccountable +circumstance to me was, that it should be entirely destitute of +vegetation, with the exception of the gloomy and leafless bramble I have +noticed. + +M'Leay, who was always indefatigable in his pursuit after subjects of +natural history, shot a cockatoo, of a new species, hereabouts, having a +singularly shaped upper mandible. It was white, with scarlet down under +the neck feathers, smaller than the common cockatoo, and remarkable for +other peculiarities. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES; THE COLARE OR LACHLAN. + +Two or three natives made their appearance at some distance from the +party, but would not approach it until after we had halted. They then +came to the tents, seven in number, and it was evident from their manner, +that their chief or only object was to pilfer anything they could. We +did not, therefore, treat them with much ceremony. They were an +ill-featured race, and it was only by strict watching during the night +that they were prevented from committing theft. Probably from seeing that +we were aware of their intentions, they left us early, and pointing +somewhat to the eastward of north, said they were going to the Colare, +and on being asked how far it was, they signified that they should sleep +there. I had on a former occasion recollected the term having been made +use of by a black, on the Macquarie, when speaking to me of the Lachlan, +and had questioned one of the young men who was with us at the time, and +who seemed more intelligent than his companions, respecting it. +Immediately catching at the word, he had pointed to the N.N.W., and, +making a sweep with his arms raised towards the sky had intimated, +evidently, that a large sheet of water existed in that direction, in the +same manner that another black had done on a former occasion: on being +further questioned, he stated that this communicated with the Morumbidgee +more to the westward, and on my expressing a desire to go to it, he said +we could not do so under four days. We had, it appeared, by the account of +the seven natives, approached within one day's journey of it, and, as I +thought it would he advisable to gain a little knowledge of the country to +the north, I suggested to M'Leay to ride in that direction, while the +party should be at rest, with some good feed for the cattle that fortune +had pointed out to us. + +EXCURSION TOWARDS THE LACHLAN. + +Our horses literally sank up to their knees on parts of the great plain +over which we had in the first instance to pass, and we rode from three to +four miles before we caught sight of a distant wood at its northern +extremity; the view from the river having been for the last two or three +days, as boundless as the ocean. As we approached the wood, two columns of +smoke rose from it, considerably apart, evidently the fires of natives +near water. We made for the central space between them, having a dead +acacia scrub upon our right. On entering the wood, we found that it +contained for the most part, flooded-gum, under which bulrushes and +reeds were mixed together. The whole space seemed liable to overflow, and +we crossed numerous little drains, that intersected each other in every +direction. From the resemblance of the ground to that at the bottom of the +marshes of the Macquarie, I prognosticated to my companion that we should +shortly come upon a creek, and we had not ridden a quarter of a mile +further, when we found ourselves on the banks of one of considerable size. +Crossing it, we proceeded northerly, until we got on the outskirts of a +plain of red sandy soil, covered with rhagodia alone, and without a tree +upon the visible horizon. The country appeared to be rising before us, but +was extremely depressed to the eastward. After continuing along this +plain for some time, I became convinced from appearances, that we were +receding from water, and that the fires of the natives, which were no +longer visible, must have been on the creek we had crossed, that I judged +to be leading W.S.W. from the opposite quarter. We had undoubtedly struck +below to the westward of the Colare or Lachlan, and the creek was the +channel of communication between it and the Morumbidgee, at least such was +the natural conclusion at which I arrived. Having no further object in +continuing a northerly course, we turned to the S.E., and, after again +passing the creek, struck away for the camp on a S. by W. course, and +passed through a dense brush of cypress and casuarina in our way to it. + +CONNECTION OF LACHLAN WITH MORUMBIDGEE. + +Considering our situation as connected with the marshes of the Lachlan, +I cannot but infer that the creek we struck upon during this excursion +serves as a drain to the latter, to conduct its superfluous waters into +the Morumbidgee in times of flood, as those of the Macquarie are conducted +by the creek at the termination of its marshes into Morrisset's Chain of +Ponds. It will be understood that I only surmise this. I argue from +analogy, not from proof. Whether I am correct or not, my knowledge of the +facts I have stated, tended very much to satisfy my mind as to the LAY of +the interior; and to revive my hopes that the Morumbidgee would not fail +us, although there was no appearance of the country improving. + +COUNTRY COVERED WITH REEDS. + +We started on the 26th, on a course somewhat to the N.W., and traversed +plains of the same wearisome description as those I have already +described. The wheels of the drays sank up to their axle-trees, and the +horses above their fetlocks at every step. The fields of polygonum spread +on every side of us like a dark sea, and the only green object within +range of our vision was the river line of trees. In several instances, the +force of both teams was put to one dray, to extricate it from the bed into +which it had sunk, and the labour was considerably increased from the +nature of the weather. The wind was blowing as if through a furnace, from +the N.N.E., and the dust was flying in clouds, so as to render it almost +suffocating to remain exposed to it. This was the only occasion upon which +we felt the hot winds in the interior. We were, about noon, endeavouring +to gain a point of a wood at which I expected to come upon the river +again, but it was impossible for the teams to reach it without assistance. +I therefore sent M'Leay forward, with orders to unload the pack animals as +soon as he should make the river, and send them back to help the teams. He +had scarcely been separated from me 20 minutes, when one of the men came +galloping back to inform me that no river was to be found--that the +country beyond the wood was covered with reeds as far as the eye could +reach, and that Mr. M'Leay had sent him back for instructions. This +intelligence stunned me for a moment or two, and I am sure its effect upon +the men was very great. They had unexpectedly arrived at a part of the +interior similar to one they had held in dread, and conjured up a thousand +difficulties and privations. I desired the man to recall Mr. M'Leay; and, +after gaining the wood, moved outside of it at right angles to my former +course, and reached the river, after a day of severe toil and exposure, +at half-past five. The country, indeed, bore every resemblance to that +around the marshes of the Macquarie, but I was too weary to make any +further effort: indeed it was too late for me undertake anything until +the morning. + +ANXIOUS COGITATIONS; SURVEY OF RIVER AND ENVIRONS. + +The circumstances in which we were so unexpectedly placed, occupied my +mind so fully that I could not sleep; and I awaited the return of light +with the utmost anxiety. If we were indeed on the outskirts of marshes +similar to those I had on a former occasion found so much difficulty +in examining, I foresaw that in endeavouring to move round then I should +recede from water, and place the expedition in jeopardy, probably, without +gaining any determinate point, as it would be necessary for me to advance +slowly and with caution. Our provisions, however, being calculated to last +only to a certain period, I was equally reluctant to delay our operations. +My course was, therefore, to be regulated by the appearance of the country +and of the river, which I purposed examining with the earliest dawn. +If the latter should be found to run into a region of reeds, a boat would +be necessary to enable me to ascertain its direction; but, if ultimately +it should be discovered to exhaust itself, we should have to strike into +the interior on a N.W. course, in search of the Darling. I could not think +of putting the whale-boat together in our then state of uncertainty, and +it struck me that a smaller one could sooner he prepared for the purposes +for which I should require it. These considerations, together with the +view I had taken of the measures I might at last be forced into, +determined me, on rising, to order Clayton to fell a suitable tree, and to +prepare a saw-pit. The labour was of no consideration, and even if +eventually the boat should not be wanted, no injury would arise, and it +was better to take time by the forelock. Having marked a tree preparatory +to leaving the camp, M'Leay and I started at an early hour on an excursion +of deeper interest than any we had as yet undertaken; to examine the +reeds, not only for the purpose of ascertaining their extent, if possible, +but also to guide us in our future measures. We rode for some miles along +the river side, but observed in it no signs, either of increase or of +exhaustion. Its waters, though turbid, were deep, and its current still +rapid. Its banks, too, were lofty, and showed no evidence of decreasing +in height, so as to occasion an overflow of them, as had been the case +with the Macquarie. We got among vast bodies of reeds, but the plains of +the interior were visible beyond them. We were evidently in a hollow, and +the decline of country was plainly to the southward of west. Every thing +tended to strengthen my conviction that we were still far from the +termination of the river. The character it had borne throughout, and its +appearance now so far to the westward, gave me the most lively hopes that +it would make good its way through the vast level into which it fell, and +that its termination would accord with its promise. Besides, I daily +anticipated its junction with some stream of equal, if not of greater +magnitude from the S.E. I was aware that my resolves must be instant, +decisive, and immediately acted upon, as on firmness and promptitude at +this crisis the success of the expedition depended. About noon I checked +my horse, and rather to the surprise of my companion, intimated to +him my intention of returning to the camp, He naturally asked what I +purposed doing. I told him it appeared to me more than probable that the +Morumbidgee would hold good its course to some fixed point, now that it +had reached a meridian beyond the known rivers of the interior. It was +certain, from the denseness of the reeds, and the breadth of the belts, +that the teams could not be brought any farther, and that, taking every +thing into consideration, I had resolved on a bold and desperate measure, +that of building the whale-boat, and sending home the drays. Our +appearance in camp so suddenly, surprised the men not more than the orders +I gave. They all thought I had struck on some remarkable change of +country, and were anxious to know my ultimate views. It was not my +intention however, immediately to satisfy their curiosity. I had to study +their characters as long as I could, in order to select those best +qualified to accompany me on the desperate adventure for which I was +preparing. + +BOAT BUILDING. + +The attention both of M'Leay, and myself, was turned to the hasty building +of the whale-boat. A shed was erected, and every necessary preparation +made, and although Clayton had the keel of the small boat already laid +down, and some planks prepared, she was abandoned for the present, and, +after four days more of arduous labour, the whale-boat was painted and in +the water. From her dimensions, it appeared to me impossible that she +would hold all our provisions and stores, for her after-part had been +fitted up as an armoury, which took away considerably from her capacity of +stowage. The small boat would still, therefore, be necessary, and she was +accordingly re-laid, for half the dimensions of the large boat, and in +three days was alongside her consort in the river. Thus, in seven days we +had put together a boat, twenty-seven feet in length, had felled a tree +from the forest, with which we had built a second of half the size, had +painted both, and had them at a temporary wharf ready for loading. Such +would not have been the case had not our hearts been in the work, as the +weather was close and sultry, and we found it a task of extreme labour. +In the intervals between the hours of work, I prepared my despatches for +the Governor, and when they were closed, it only remained for me to select +six hands, the number I intended should accompany me down the river, and +to load the boats, ere we should once more proceed in the further +obedience of our instructions. + +COMPLETION OF ARRANGEMENTS FOR EMBARKATION. + +It was impossible that I could do without Clayton, whose perseverance and +industry had mainly contributed to the building of the boats; of the other +prisoners, I chose Mulholland and Macnamee; leaving the rest in charge +of Robert Harris, whose steady conduct had merited my approbation. My +servant, Harris, Hopkinson, and Fraser, of course, made up the crews. +The boats were loaded in the evening of Jan. 6th, as it had been +necessary to give the paint a little time to dry. On the 4th, I had sent +Clayton and Mulholland to the nearest cypress range for a mast and spar, +and on the evening of that day some blacks had visited us; but they sat on +the bank of the river, preserving a most determined silence; and, at +length, left us abruptly, and apparently in great ill humour. In the +disposition of the loads, I placed all the flour, the tea, and tobacco, +in the whaleboat. The meat-casks, still, and carpenters' tools, were put +into the small boat. + +As soon as the different arrangements were completed, I collected the men, +and told off those who were to accompany me. I then gave the rest over in +charge to Harris, and, in adverting to their regular conduct hitherto, +trusted they would be equally careful while under his orders. I then +directed the last remaining sheep to be equally divided among us; and it +was determined that, for fear of accidents, Harris should remain +stationary for a week, at the expiration of which time, he would be at +liberty to proceed to Goulburn Plains, there to receive his instructions +from Sydney; while the boats were to proceed at an early hour of the +morning down the river,--whether ever to return again being a point of the +greatest uncertainty. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + +Embarkation of the party in the boats, and voyage down the Morumbidgee-- +The skiff swamped by striking on a sunken tree--Recovery of boat and its +loading--Region of reeds--Dangers of the navigation--Contraction of the +channel--Reach the junction of a large river--Intercourse with the natives +on its banks--Character of the country below the junction of the rivers-- +Descent of a dangerous rapid--Warlike demonstrations of a tribe of +natives--Unexpected deliverance from a conflict with them--Junction of +another river--Give the name of the "Murray" to the principal stream. + + +The camp was a scene of bustle and confusion long before day-light. The +men whom I had selected to accompany me were in high spirits, and so eager +to commence their labours that they had been unable to sleep, but busied +themselves from the earliest dawn in packing up their various articles of +clothing, &c. We were prevented from taking our departure so early as I +had intended, by rain that fell about six. At a little after seven, +however, the weather cleared up, the morning mists blew over our heads, +and the sun struck upon us with his usual fervour. As soon as the minor +things were stowed away, we bade adieu to Harris and his party; and +shortly after, embarked on the bosom of that stream along the banks of +which we had journeyed for so many miles + +Notwithstanding that we only used two oars, our progress down the river +was rapid. Hopkinson had arranged the loads so well, that all the party +could sit at their ease, and Fraser was posted in the bow of the boat, +with gun in hand, to fire at any new bird or beast that we might surprise +in our silent progress. The little boat, which I shall henceforward call +the skiff, was fastened by a painter to our stern. + +SUPPOSED JUNCTION OF LACHLAN. + +As the reader will have collected from what has already fallen under his +notice, the country near the depot was extensively covered with reeds, +beyond which vast plains of polygonum stretched away. From the bed of the +river we could not observe the change that took place in it as we passed +along, so that we found it necessary to land, from time to time, for the +purpose of noting down its general appearance. At about fifteen miles from +the depot, we came upon a large creek-junction from the N.E., which I did +not doubt to be the one M'Leay and I had crossed on the 25th of December. +It was much larger than the creek of the Macquarie, and was capable of +holding a very great body of water, although evidently too small to +contain all that occasionally rushed from its source. I laid it down as +the supposed junction of the Lachlan, since I could not, against the +corroborating facts in my possession, doubt its originating in the marshes +of that river. Should this, eventually, prove to be the case, the similar +termination of the two streams traced by Mr. Oxley will be a singular +feature in the geography of the interior. + +EMUS--NATIVE TOMB. + +We were just about to land, to prepare our dinner, when two emus swam +across the river ahead of us. This was an additional inducement for us to +land, but we were unfortunately too slow, and the birds escaped us. We had +rushed in to the right bank, and found on ascending it, that the reeds +with which it had hitherto been lined, had partially ceased. A large +plain, similar to those over which we had wandered prior to our gaining +the flooded region, stretched away to a considerable distance behind us, +and was backed by cypresses and brush. The soil of the plain was a red +sandy loam, covered sparingly with salsolae and shrubs; thus indicating +that the country still preserved its barren character, and that it is the +same from north to south. Among the shrubs we found a tomb that appeared +to have been recently constructed. No mound had been raised over the body, +but an oval hollow shed occupied the centre of the burial place, that was +lined with reeds and bound together with strong net-work. Round this, the +usual walks were cut, and the recent traces of women's feet were visible +upon them, but we saw no natives, although, from the number and size of +the paths that led from the river, in various directions across the plain, +I was led to conclude, that, at certain seasons, it is hereabouts +numerously frequented. Fraser gathered some rushes similar to those used +by the natives of the Darling in the fabrication of their nets, and as +they had not before been observed, we judged them, of course, to be a sign +of our near approach to that river. + +ASPECT OF COUNTRY AND RIVER. + +As soon as we had taken a hasty dinner, we again embarked, and pursued our +journey. I had hoped, from the appearance of the country to the north of +us, although that to the south gave little indication of any change, that +we should soon clear the reeds; but at somewhat less than a mile they +closed in upon the river, and our frequent examination of the +neighbourhood on either side of it only tended to confirm the fact, that +we were passing through a country subject to great and extensive +inundation. We pulled up at half-past five, and could scarcely find space +enough to pitch our tents. + +The Morumbidgee kept a decidedly westerly course during the day. Its +channel was not so tortuous as we expected to have found it, nor did it +offer any obstruction to the passage of the boats. Its banks kept a +general height of eight feet, five of which were of alluvial soil, and +both its depth and its current were considerable. We calculated having +proceeded from 28 to 30 miles, though, perhaps, not more than half that +distance in a direct line. No rain fell during the day, but we experienced +some heavy squalls from the E.S.E. + +THE SKIFF STRIKES AND SINKS--LABOUR IN RECOVERING ARTICLES LOST. + +The second day of our journey from the depot was marked by an accident +that had well nigh obliged us to abandon the further pursuit of the river, +by depriving us of part of our means of carrying it into effect. We had +proceeded, as usual, at an early hour in the morning, and not long after +we started, fell in with the blacks who had visited us last, and who were +now in much better humour than upon that occasion. As they had their women +with them, we pushed in to the bank, and distributed some presents, after +which we dropped quietly down the river. Its general depth had been such +as to offer few obstructions to our progress, but about an hour after we +left the natives, the skiff struck upon a sunken log, and immediately +filling, went down in about twelve feet of water, The length of the +painter prevented any strain upon the whale-boat, but the consequence of +so serious an accident at once flashed upon our minds. That we should +suffer considerably, we could not doubt, but our object was to get the +skiff up with the least possible delay, to prevent the fresh water from +mixing with the brine, in the casks of meat. Some short time, however, +necessarily elapsed before we could effect this, and when at last the +skiff was hauled ashore, we found that we were too late to prevent the +mischief that we had anticipated. All the things had been fastened in the +boat, but either from the shock, or the force of the current, one of the +pork casks, the head of the still, and the greater part of the carpenter's +tools, had been thrown out of her. As the success of the expedition might +probably depend upon the complete state of the still, I determined to use +every effort for its recovery: but I was truly at a loss how to find it; +for the waters of the river were extremely turbid. In this dilemma, the +blacks would have been of the most essential service, but they were far +behind us, so that we had to depend on our own exertions alone. I directed +the whale-boat to be moored over the place where the accident had +happened, and then used the oars on either side of her, to feel along the +bottom of the river, in hopes that by these means we should strike upon +the articles we had lost. However unlikely such a measure was to prove +successful, we recovered in the course of the afternoon, every thing but +the still-head, and a cask of paint. Whenever the oar struck against the +substance that appeared, by its sound or feel to belong to us, it was +immediately pushed into the sand, and the upper end of the oar being held +by two men, another descended by it to the bottom of the river, remaining +under water as long as he could, to ascertain what was immediately within +arm's length of him. This work was, as may be imagined, most laborious, +and the men at length became much exhausted. They would not, however, give +up the search for the still head, more especially after M'Leay, in diving, +had descended upon it. Had he, by ascertaining his position, left it to us +to heave it up, our labours would soon have ended; but, in his anxiety for +its recovery, he tried to bring it up, when finding it too heavy, he let +it go, and the current again swept it away. + +At sunset. we were obliged to relinquish our task, the men complaining of +violent head-aches, which the nature of the day increased. Thinking our +own efforts would be unavailing, I directed two of the men to go up the +river for the blacks, at day-light in the morning, and set the reeds on +fire to attract their notice. The day had been cloudy and sultry in the +afternoon, the clouds collecting in the N.E.: we heard the distant +thunder, and expected to have been deluged with rain. None, however, +fell, although we were anxious for moisture to change the oppressive state +of the atmosphere. The fire I had kindled raged behind us, and threw dense +columns of smoke into the sky, that cast over the landscape a shade of the +most dismal gloom. We were not in a humour to admire the picturesque, but +soon betook ourselves to rest, and after such a day of labour as that we +had undergone, I dispensed with the night guard. + +PILFERING OF NATIVES. + +In the morning we resumed our search for the still head, which Hopkinson +at length fortunately struck with his oar. It had been swept considerably +below the place at which M'Leay had dived, or we should most probably have +found it sooner. With its recovery, all our fatigues were at once +forgotten, and I ordered the breakfast to be got ready preparatory to our +reloading the skiff. Fraser and Mulholland, who had left the camp at +daylight, had not yet returned. I was sitting in the tent, when Macnamee +came to inform me that one of the frying-pans was missing, which had +been in use the evening previous, for that he himself had placed it on the +stump of a tree, and he therefore supposed a native dog had run away with +it. Soon after this, another loss was reported to me, and it was at last +discovered that an extensive robbery had been committed upon us during +the night, and that, in addition to the frying-pan, three cutlasses, and +five tomahawks, with the pea of the steelyards, had been carried away. +I was extremely surprised at this instance of daring in the natives, and +determined, if possible, to punish it. About ten, Fraser and Mulholland +returned with two blacks. Fraser told me he saw several natives on our +side of the river, as he was returning, to whom those who were with him +spoke, and I felt convinced from their manner and hesitation, that they +were aware of the trick that had been played upon us. However, as Fraser +had promised them a tomahawk to induce them to accompany him, I fulfilled +the promise. + +CONTINUE OUR VOYAGE. + +Leaving this unlucky spot, we made good about sixteen miles during the +afternoon. The river maintained its breadth and depth nor were the reeds +continuous upon its banks. We passed several plains that were considerably +elevated above the alluvial deposits, and the general appearance of the +country induced me strongly to hope that we should shortly get out of the +region of reeds, or the great flooded concavity on which we had fixed our +depot; but the sameness of vegetation, and the seemingly diminutive size +of the timber in the distance, argued against any change for the better +in the soil of the interior. Having taken the precaution of shortening the +painter of the skiff, we found less difficulty in steering her clear +of obstacles, and made rapid progress down the Morumbidgee during the +first cool and refreshing hours of the morning. The channel of the river +became somewhat less contracted, but still retained sufficient depth for +larger boats than ours, and preserved a general westerly course. Although +no decline of country was visible to the eye, the current in places ran +very strong. It is impossible for me to convey to the reader's mind an +idea of the nature of the country through which we passed. On this day the +favourable appearances, noticed yesterday, ceased almost as soon as we +embarked. On the 10th, reeds lined the banks of the river on both sides, +without any break, and waved like gloomy streamers over its turbid waters; +while the trees stood leafless and sapless in the midst of them. Wherever +we landed, the same view presented itself--a waving expanse of reeds, and +a country as flat as it is possible to imagine one. The eye could seldom +penetrate beyond three quarters of a mile, and the labour of walking +through the reeds was immense; but within our observation all was green +and cheerless. The morning had been extremely cold, with a thick haze at +E.S.E. About 2 p.m. it came on to rain heavily, so that we did not stir +after that hour. + +CONTRACTION OF THE CHANNEL. + +I had remarked that the Morumbidgee was not, from the depot downwards, so +broad or so fine a river as it certainly is at the foot of the mountain +ranges, where it gains the level country. The observations of the last two +days had impressed upon my mind an idea that it was rapidly falling off, +and I began to dread that it would finally terminate in one of those fatal +marshes in which the Macquarie and the Lachlan exhaust themselves. My hope +of a more favourable issue was considerably damped by the general +appearance of the surrounding country; and from the circumstance of our +not having as yet passed a single tributary. As we proceeded down the +river, its channel gradually contracted, and immense trees that had been +swept down it by floods, rendered the navigation dangerous and intricate. +Its waters became so turbid, that it was impossible to see objects in it, +notwithstanding the utmost diligence on the part of the men. + +About noon, we fell in with a large tribe of natives, but had great +difficulty in bringing them to visit us. If they had HEARD of white men, +we were evidently the first they had ever SEEN. They approached us in the +most cautious manner, and were unable to subdue their fears as long as +they remained with us. Collectively, these people could not have amounted +to less than one hundred and twenty in number. + +ANOTHER ACCIDENT. + +As we pushed off from the bank, after having stayed with them about half +an hour, the whaleboat struck with such violence on a sunken log, that she +immediately leaked on her starboard side. Fortunately she was going slowly +at the time, or she would most probably have received some more serious +injury. One of the men was employed during the remainder of the afternoon +in bailing her out, and we stopped sooner than we should otherwise have +done, in order to ascertain the extent of damage, and to repair it. The +reeds terminated on both sides of the river some time before we pulled up, +and the country round the camp was more elevated than usual, and bore the +appearance of open forest pasture land, the timber upon it being a dwarf +species of box, and the soil a light tenacious earth. + +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER. + +About a mile below our encampment of the 12th, we at length came upon a +considerable creek-junction from the S.E. Below it, the river increased +both in breadth and depth; banks were lofty and perpendicular, and even +the lowest levels were but partially covered with reeds. We met with fewer +obstructions in consequence, and pursued our journey with restored +confidence. Towards evening a great change also took place in the aspect +of the country, which no longer bore general marks of inundation. The +level of the interior was broken by a small hill to the right of the +stream, but the view from its summit rather damped than encouraged my +hopes of any improvement. The country was covered with wood and brush, and +the line of the horizon was unbroken by the least swell. We were on an +apparently boundless flat, without any fixed point on which to direct our +movements, nor was there a single object for the eye to rest upon, beyond +the dark and gloomy wood that surrounded us on every side. + +Soon after passing this hill, the whale-boat struck upon a line of sunken +rocks, but fortunately escaped without injury. Mulholland, who was +standing in the bow, was thrown out of her, head foremost, and got a good +soaking, but soon recovered himself. The composition of the rock was +iron-stone, and it is the first formation that occurs westward of the +dividing range. We noticed a few cypresses in the distance, but the +general timber was dwarf-box, or flooded-gum, and a few of the acacia +longa scattered at great distances. In verifying our position by some +lunars, we found ourselves in 142 degrees 46 minutes 30 seconds of east +long., and in lat. 35 degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds S. the mean variation +of the compass being 4 degrees 10 minutes E. it appearing that we were +decreasing the variation as we proceeded westward. + +On the 13th, we passed the first running stream that joins the +Morumbidgee, in a course of more than 340 miles. It came from the S.E., +and made a visible impression on the river at the junction, although in +tracing it up, it appeared to be insignificant in itself. The circumstance +of these tributaries all occurring on the left, evidenced the level nature +of the country to the north. In the afternoon, we passed a dry creek also +from the S.E. which must at times throw a vast supply of water into the +river, since for many miles below, the latter preserved a breadth of +200 feet, and averaged from 12 to 20 feet in depth, with banks of from +15 to 18 feet in height. Yet, notwithstanding its general equality of +depth, several rapids occurred, down which the boats were hurried with +great velocity. The body of water in the river continued undiminished, +notwithstanding its increased breadth of channel; for which reason I +should imagine that it is fed by springs, independently of other supplies. +Some few cypresses were again observed, and the character of the distant +country resembled, in every particular, that of the interior between the +Macquarie and the Darling. The general appearance of the Morumbidgee, from +the moment of our starting on the 13th, to a late hour in the afternoon, +had been such as to encourage my hopes of ultimate success in tracing it +down; but about three o'clock we came to one of those unaccountable and +mortifying changes which had already so frequently excited my +apprehension. Its channel again suddenly contracted, and became almost +blocked up with huge trees, that must have found their way into it down +the creeks or junctions we had lately passed. The rapidity of the current +increasing at the same time, rendered the navigation perplexing and +dangerous. We Passed reach after reach, presenting the same difficulties, +and were at length obliged to pull up at 5 p.m., having a scene of +confusion and danger before us that I did not dare to encounter with the +evening's light; for I had not only observed that the men's eye-sight +failed them as the sun descended, and that they mistook shadows for +objects under water, and VICE-VERSA, but the channel had become so narrow +that, although the banks were not of increased height, we were involved in +comparative darkness, under a close arch of trees, and a danger was hardly +seen ere we were hurried past it, almost without the possibility of +avoiding it. The reach at the head of which we stopped, was crowded with +the trunks of trees, the branches of which crossed each other in every +direction, nor could I hope, after a minute examination of the channel, +to succeed in taking the boats safely down so intricate a passage. + +DANGEROUS NAVIGATION OF THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +We rose in the morning with feelings of apprehension, and uncertainty; +and, indeed, with great doubts on our minds whether we were not thus early +destined to witness the wreck, and the defeat of the expedition. The men +got slowly and cautiously into the boat, and placed themselves so as to +leave no part of her undefended. Hopkinson stood at the bow, ready with +poles to turn her head from anything upon which she might be drifting. +Thus prepared, we allowed her to go with the stream. By extreme care and +attention on the part of the men we passed this formidable barrier. +Hopkinson in particular exerted himself, and more than once leapt from the +boat upon apparently rotten logs of wood, that I should not have judged +capable of bearing his weight, the more effectually to save the boat. +It might have been imagined that where such a quantity of timber had +accumulated, a clearer channel would have been found below, but such was +not the case. In every reach we had to encounter fresh difficulties. In +some places huge trees lay athwart the stream, under whose arched branches +we were obliged to pass; but, generally speaking, they had been carried, +roots foremost, by the current, and, therefore, presented so many points +to receive us, that, at the rate at which we were going, had we struck +full upon any one of them, it would have gone through and through the +boat. About noon we stopped to repair, or rather to take down the remains +of our awning, which had been torn away; and to breathe a moment from the +state of apprehension and anxiety in which our minds had been kept during +the morning. About one, we again started. The men looked anxiously out +ahead; for the singular change in the river had impressed on them an idea, +that we were approaching its termination, or near some adventure. On a +sudden, the river took a general southern direction, but, in its tortuous +course, swept round to every point of the compass with the greatest +irregularity. We were carried at a fearful rate down its gloomy and +contracted banks, and, in such a moment of excitement, had little time to +pay attention to the country through which we were passing. It was, +however, observed, that chalybeate-springs were numerous close to the +water's edge. At 3 p.m., Hopkinson called out that we were approaching +a junction, and in less than a minute afterwards, we were hurried into a +broad and noble river. + +JUNCTION OF A LARGE RIVER--CHARACTER OF THE RIVER. + +It is impossible for me to describe the effect of so instantaneous a +change of circumstances upon us. The boats were allowed to drift along at +pleasure, and such was the force with which we had been shot out of the +Morumbidgee, that we were carried nearly to the bank opposite its +embouchure, whilst we continued to gaze in silent astonishment on the +capacious channel we had entered; and when we looked for that by which we +had been led into it, we could hardly believe that the insignificant gap +that presented itself to us was, indeed, the termination of the beautiful +and noble stream, whose course we had thus successfully followed. I can +only compare the relief we experienced to that which the seaman feels on +weathering the rock upon which be expected his vessel would have +struck--to the calm which succeeds moments of feverish anxiety, when the +dread of danger is succeeded by the certainty of escape. + +To myself personally, the discovery of this river was a circumstance of a +particularly gratifying nature, since it not only confirmed the justness +of my opinion as to the ultimate fate of the Morumbidgee, and bore me out +in the apparently rash and hasty step I had taken at the depot, but +assured me of ultimate success in the duty I had to perform. We had got on +the high road, as it were, either to the south coast, or to some +important outlet; and the appearance of the river itself was such as to +justify our most sanguine expectations. I could not doubt its being the +great channel of the streams from the S.E. angle of the island. Mr. Hume +had mentioned to me that he crossed three very considerable streams, when +employed with Mr. Hovell in 1823 in penetrating towards Port Phillips, to +which the names of the Goulburn, the Hume, and the Ovens, had been given; +and as I was 300 miles from the track these gentlemen had pursued, I +considered it more than probable that those rivers must already have +formed a junction above me, more especially when I reflected that the +convexity of the mountains to the S.E. would necessarily direct the waters +falling inwards from them to a common centre. + +We entered the new river at right angles, and, as I have remarked, at the +point of junction the channel of the Morumbidgee had narrowed so as to +bear all the appearance of an ordinary creek. In breadth it did not exceed +fifty feet, and if, instead of having passed down it, I had been making my +way up the principal streams, I should little have dreamt that so dark and +gloomy an outlet concealed a river that would lead me to the haunts of +civilized man, and whose fountains rose amidst snow-clad mountains. Such, +however, is the characteristic of the streams falling to the westward of +the coast ranges. Descending into a low and level interior, and depending +on their immediate springs for existence, they fall off, as they increase +their distance from the base of the mountains in which they rise, and in +their lower branches give little results of the promise they had +previously made. + +The opinion I have expressed, and which is founded on my personal +experience, that the rivers crossed by Messrs. Hovell and Hume had +already united above me, was strengthened by the capacity of the stream we +had just discovered. It had a medium width of 350 feet, with a depth of +from twelve to twenty. Its reaches were from half to three-quarters of a +mile in length, and the views upon it were splendid. Of course, as the +Morumbidgee entered it from the north, its first reach must have been +E. and W., and it was so, as nearly as possible; but it took us a little +to the southward of the latter point, in a distance of about eight miles +that we pulled down it in the course of the afternoon. We then landed and +pitched our tents for the night. Its transparent waters were running over +a sandy bed at the rate of two-and-a-half knots an hour, and its banks, +although averaging eighteen feet in height, were evidently subject to +floods. + +ABSENCE OF NATIVES. + +We had not seen any natives since falling in with the last tribe on the +Morumbidgee. A cessation had, therefore, taken place in our communication +with them, in re-establishing which I anticipated considerable difficulty. +It appeared singular that we should not have fallen in with any for +several successive days, more especially at the junction of the two +rivers, as in similar situations they generally have an establishment. In +examining the country back from the stream, I did not observe any large +paths, but it was evident that fires had made extensive ravages in the +neighbourhood, so that the country was, perhaps, only temporarily +deserted. Macnamee, who had wandered a little from the tents, declared +that he had seen about a dozen natives round a fire, from whom (if he +really did see them) he very precipitately fled, but I was inclined to +discredit his story, because in our journey on the following day, we +did not see even a casual wanderer. + +WEATHER, TEMPERATURE, &C. + +The river maintained its character, and raised our hopes to the highest +pitch. Its breadth varied from 160 to 200 yards; and only in one place, +where a reef of iron-stone stretched nearly across from the left bank, +so as to contract the channel near the right and to form a considerable +rapid, was there any apparent obstruction to our navigation. I was sorry, +however, to remark that the breadth of alluvial soil between its outer and +inner banks was very inconsiderable, and that the upper levels were poor +and sandy. Blue-gum generally occupied the former, while the usual +productions of the plains still predominated upon the latter, and showed +that the distant interior had not yet undergone any favourable change. +We experienced strong breezes from the north, but the range of the +thermometer was high, and the weather rather oppressive than otherwise. +On the night of the 16th, we had a strong wind from the N.W., but it +moderated with day-light, and shifted to the E.N.E., and the day was +favourable and cool. Our progress was in every way satisfactory, and if +any change had taken place in the river, it was that the banks had +increased in height, in many places to thirty feet, the soil being a red +loam, and the surface much above the reach of floods. The bank opposite to +the one that was so elevated, was proportionably low, and, in general, not +only heavily timbered, but covered with reeds, and backed by a chain of +ponds at the base of the outer embankment. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. + +About 4 p.m., some natives were observed running by the river side behind +us, but on our turning the boat's head towards the shore, they ran away. +It was evident that they had no idea what we were, and, from their +timidity, feeling assured that it would be impossible to bring them to a +parley, we continued onwards till our usual hour of stopping, when we +pitched our tents on the left bank for the night, it being the one +opposite to that on which the natives had appeared. We conjectured that +their curiosity would lead them to follow us, which they very shortly did; +for we had scarcely made ourselves comfortable when we heard their wild +notes through the woods as they advanced towards the river; and their +breaking into view with their spears and shields, and painted and prepared +as they were for battle, was extremely fine. They stood threatening us, +and making a great noise, for a considerable time, but, finding that we +took no notice of them, they, at length, became quiet. I then walked to +some little distance from the party, and taking a branch in my hand, as a +sign of peace, beckoned them to swim to our side of the river, which, +after some time, two or three of them did. But they approached me with +great caution, hesitating at every step. They soon, however, gained +confidence, and were ultimately joined by all the males of their tribe. +I gave the FIRST who swam the river a tomahawk (making this a rule in +order to encourage them) with which he was highly delighted. I shortly +afterwards placed them all in a row and fired a gun before them: they were +quite unprepared for such an explosion, and after standing stupified and +motionless for a moment or two, they simultaneously took to their heels, +to our great amusement. I succeeded, however, in calling them back, and +they regained their confidence so much, that sixteen of them remained with +us all night, but the greater number retired at sunset. + +On the following morning, they accompanied us down the river, where we +fell in with their tribe, who were stationed on an elevated bank a short +distance below--to the number of eighty-three men, women, and children. +Their appearance was extremely picturesque and singular. They wanted us to +land, but time was too precious for such delays. Some of the boldest of +the natives swam round and round the boat so as to impede the use of the +oars, and the women on the bank evinced their astonishment by mingled +yells and cries. They entreated us, by signs, to remain with them, but, as +I foresaw a compliance on this occasion would hereafter be attended with +inconvenience, I thought it better to proceed on our journey, and the +natives soon ceased their importunities, and, indeed, did not follow or +molest us. + +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER BANKS. + +The river improved upon us at every mile. Its reaches were of noble +breadth, and splendid appearance. Its current was stronger, and it was fed +by numerous springs. Rocks, however, were more frequent in its bed, and in +two places almost formed a barrier across the channel, leaving but a +narrow space for the boats to go down. We passed several elevations of +from 70 to 90 feet in height, at the base of which the stream swept along. +The soil of these elevations was a mixture of clay (marl) and sand, upon +coarse sandstone. Their appearance and the manner in which they had been +acted upon by water, was singular, and afforded a proof of the violence of +the rains in this part of the interior. From the highest of these, I +observed that the country to the S.E. was gently undulated, and so far +changed in character from that through which we had been travelling; +still, however, it was covered with a low scrub, and was barren and +unpromising. + +About noon of the 18th, we surprised two women at the water-side, who +immediately retreated into the brush. Shortly after, four men showed +themselves, and followed us for a short distance, but hid themselves upon +our landing. The country still appeared undulated to the S.E.; the soil +was sandy, and cypresses more abundant than any other tree. We passed +several extensive sand-banks in the river, of unusual size and solidity, +an evident proof of the sandy nature of the interior generally. The vast +accumulations of sand at the junctions of every creek were particularly +remarkable. The timber on the alluvial flats was not by any means so large +as we had hitherto observed it; nor were the flats themselves so extensive +as they are on the Morumbidgee and the Macquarie. Notwithstanding the +aspect of the country which I have described, no POSITIVE change had as +yet taken place in the general feature of the interior. The river +continued to flow in a direction somewhat to the northward of west, +through a country that underwent no perceptible alteration. Its waters, +confined to their immediate bed, swept along considerably below the level +of its inner banks; and the spaces between them and the outer ones, though +generally covered with reeds, seemed not recently to have been flooded; +while on the other hand, they had, in many places, from successive +depositions, risen to a height far above the reach of inundation. Still, +however, the more remote interior maintained its sandy and sterile +character, and stretched away, in alternate plain and wood, to a distance +far beyond the limits of our examination. + +About the 21st, a very evident change took place in it. The banks of the +river suddenly acquired a perpendicular and water-worn appearance. Their +summits were perfectly level, and no longer confined by a secondary +embankment, but preserved an uniform equality of surface back from the +stream. These banks, although so abrupt, were not so high as the upper +levels, or secondary embankments. They indicated a deep alluvial deposit, +and yet, being high above the reach of any ordinary flood, were covered +with grass, under an open box forest, into which a moderately dense scrub +occasionally penetrated. We had fallen into a concavity similar to those +of the marshes, but successive depositions had almost filled it, and no +longer subject to inundation, it had lost all the character of those +flooded tracts. The kind of country I have been describing, lay rather to +the right than to the left of the river at this place, the latter +continuing low and swampy, as if the country to the south of the river +were still subject to inundation. As the expedition proceeded, the left +bank gradually assumed the appearance of the right; both looked water-worn +and perpendicular, and though not more than from nine to ten feet in +height, their summits were perfectly level in receding, and bore +diminutive box-timber, with widely-scattered vegetation. Not a single +elevation had, as yet, broken the dark and gloomy monotony of the +interior; but as our observations were limited to a short distance from +the river, our surmises on the nature of the distant country were +necessarily involved in some uncertainty. + +THREATENED ATTACK--AMICABLE CONFERENCE. + +On the 19th, as we were about to conclude our journey for the day, we saw +a large body of natives before us. On approaching them, they showed every +disposition for combat, and ran along the bank with spears in rests, as if +only waiting for an opportunity to throw them at us. They were upon the +right, and as the river was broad enough to enable me to steer wide of +them, I did not care much for their threats; but upon another party +appearing upon the left bank, I thought it high time to disperse one or +the other of them, as the channel was not wide enough to enable me to keep +clear of danger, if assailed by both, as I might be while keeping amid the +channel. I found, however, that they did not know how to use the advantage +they possessed, as the two divisions formed a junction; those on the left +swimming over to the stronger body upon the right bank. This, fortunately, +prevented the necessity of any hostile measure on my part, and we were +suffered to proceed unmolested, for the present. The whole then followed +us without any symptom of fear, but making a dreadful shouting, and +beating their spears and shields together, by way of intimidation. It is +but justice to my men to say that in this critical situation they evinced +the greatest coolness, though it was impossible for any one to witness +such a scene with indifference. As I did not intend to fatigue the men by +continuing to pull farther than we were in the habit of doing, we landed +at our usual time on the left bank, and while the people were pitching the +tents, I walked down the bank with M'Leay, to treat with these desperadoes +in the best way we could, across the water, a measure to which my men +showed great reluctance, declaring that if during our absence the natives +approached them, they would undoubtedly fire upon them. I assured them it +was not my intention to go out of their sight. We took our guns with us, +but determined not to use them until the last extremity, both from a +reluctance to shed blood and with a view to our future security. I held a +long pantomimical dialogue with them, across the water, and held out the +olive branch in token of amity. They at length laid aside their spears, +and a long consultation took place among them, which ended in two or three +wading into the river, contrary, as it appeared, to the earnest +remonstrances of the majority, who, finding that their entreaties had no +effect, wept aloud, and followed them with a determination, I am sure, of +sharing their fate, whatever it might have been. As soon as they landed, +M'Leay and I retired to a little distance from the bank, and sat down; +that being the usual way among the natives of the interior, to invite to +an interview. When they saw us act thus, they approached, and sat down by +us, but without looking up, from a kind of diffidence peculiar to them, +and which exists even among the nearest relatives, as I have already had +occasion to observe. As they gained confidence, however, they showed an +excessive curiosity, and stared at us in the most earnest manner. We now +led them to the camp, and I gave, as was my custom, the first who had +approached, a tomahawk; and to the others, some pieces of iron hoop. Those +who had crossed the river amounted to about thirty-five in number. +At sunset, the majority of them left us; but three old men remained at +the fire-side all night. I observed that few of them had either lost their +front teeth or lacerated their bodies, as the more westerly tribes do. The +most loathsome diseases prevailed among them. Several were disabled by +leprosy, or some similar disorder, and two or three had entirely lost +their sight. They are, undoubtedly, a brave and a confiding people, and +are by no means wanting in natural affection. In person, they resemble the +mountain tribes. They had the thick lip, the sunken eye, the extended +nostril, and long beards, and both smooth and curly hair are common among +them. Their lower extremities appear to bear no proportion to their bust +in point of muscular strength; but the facility with which they ascend +trees of the largest growth, and the activity with which they move upon +all occasions, together with their singularly erect stature, argue that +such appearance is entirely deceptive. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. + +The old men slept very soundly by the fire, and were the last to get up in +the morning. M'Leay's extreme good humour had made a most favourable +impression upon them, and I can picture him, even now, joining in their +wild song. Whether it was from his entering so readily into their mirth, +or from anything peculiar that struck them, the impression upon the whole +of us was, that they took him to have been originally a black, in +consequence of which they gave him the name of Rundi. Certain it is, they +pressed him to show his side, and asked if he had not received a wound +there--evidently as if the original Rundi had met with a violent death +from a spear-wound in that place. The whole tribe, amounting in number to +upwards of 150, assembled to see us take our departure. Four of them +accompanied us, among whom there was one remarkable for personal strength +and stature.--The 21st passed without our falling in with any new tribe, +and the night of the 22nd, saw us still wandering in that lonely desert +together. There was something unusual in our going through such an extent +of country without meeting another tribe, but our companions appeared to +be perfectly aware of the absence of inhabitants, as they never left +our side. + +Although the banks of the river had been of general equality of height, +sandy elevations still occasionally formed a part of them, and their +summits were considerably higher than the alluvial flats. + +RAPID IN THE RIVER--DANGEROUS DESCENT OF THE BOATS. + +It was upon the crest of one of these steep and lofty banks, that on the +morning of the 22nd, the natives who were a-head of the boat, suddenly +stopped to watch our proceedings down a foaming rapid that ran beneath. +We were not aware of the danger to which we were approaching, until we +turned an angle of the river, and found ourselves too near to retreat. +In such a moment, without knowing what was before them, the coolness of +the men was strikingly exemplified. No one even spoke after they became +aware that silence was necessary. The natives (probably anticipating +misfortune) stood leaning upon their spears upon the lofty bank above us. +Desiring the men not to move from their seats, I stood up to survey the +channel, and to steer the boat to that part of it which was least impeded +by rocks. I was obliged to decide upon a hasty survey, as we were already +at the head of the rapid. It appeared to me that there were two passages, +the one down the centre of the river, the other immediately under its +right bank. A considerable rock stood directly in own way to the latter, +so that I had no alternative but to descend the former. About forty yards +below the rock, I noticed that a line of rocks occupied the space between +the two channels, whilst a reef, projecting from the left bank, made the +central passage distinctly visible, and the rapidity of the current +proportionably great. I entertained hopes that the passage was clear, and +that we should shoot down it without interruption; but in this I was +disappointed. The boat struck with the fore-part of her keel on a sunken +rock, and, swinging round as it were on a pivot, presented her bow to the +rapid, while the skiff floated away into the strength of it. We had every +reason to anticipate the loss of our whale-boat, whose build was so light, +that had her side struck the rock, instead of her keel, she would have +been laid open from stem to stern. As it was, however, she remained fixed +in her position, and it only remained for us to get her off the best way +we could. I saw that this could only be done by sending two of the men +with a rope to the upper rock, and getting the boat, by that means, into +the still water, between that and the lower one. We should then have time +to examine the channels, and to decide as to that down which it would be +safest to proceed. My only fear was, that the loss of the weight of the +two men would lighten the boat so much, that she would be precipitated +down the rapid without my having any command over her; but it happened +otherwise. We succeeded in getting her into the still water, and +ultimately took her down the channel under the right bank, without her +sustaining any injury. A few miles below this rapid the river took a +singular bend, and we found, after pulling several miles, that we were +within a stone's throw of a part of the stream we had already +sailed down. + +The four natives joined us in the camp, and assisted the men at their +various occupations. The consequence was, that they were treated with more +than ordinary kindness; and Fraser, for his part, in order to gratify +these favoured guests, made great havoc among the feathered race. He +returned after a short ramble with a variety of game, among which were a +crow, a kite, and a laughing jackass (alcedo gigantea,) a species of +king's-fisher, a singular bird, found in every part of Australia. Its cry, +which resembles a chorus of wild spirits, is apt to startle the traveller +who may be in jeopardy, as if laughing and mocking at his misfortune. +It is a harmless bird, and I seldom allowed them to be destroyed, as they +were sure to rouse us with the earliest dawn. To this list of Fraser's +spoils, a duck and a tough old cockatoo, must be added. The whole of these +our friends threw on the fire without the delay of plucking, and snatched +them from that consuming element ere they were well singed, and devoured +them with uncommon relish. + +DESERTED NATIVE VILLAGE. + +We pitched our tents upon a flat of good and tenacious soil. A brush, in +which there was a new species of melaleuca, backed it, in the thickest +part of which we found a deserted native village. The spot was evidently +chosen for shelter. The huts were large and long, all facing the same +point of the compass, and in every way resembling the huts occupied by the +natives of the Darling. Large flocks of whistling ducks, and other wild +fowl, flew over our heads to the N.W., as if making their way to some +large or favourite waters. My observations placed us in lat. 34 degrees +8 minutes 15 seconds south, and in east long. 141 degrees 9 minutes +42 seconds or nearly so; and I was at a loss to conceive what direction +the river would ultimately take. We were considerably to the N.W. of the +point at which we had entered it, and in referring to the chart, it +appeared, that if the Darling had kept a S.W. course from where the last +expedition left its banks, we ought ere this to have struck upon it, +or have arrived at its junction with the stream on which we were +journeying. + +CONVERSING BY SIGNS. + +The natives, in attempting to answer my interrogatories, only perplexed +me more and more. They evidently wished to explain something, by placing a +number of sticks across each other as a kind of diagram of the country. It +was, however, impossible to arrive at their meaning. They undoubtedly +pointed to the westward, or rather to the south of that point, as the +future course of the river; but there was something more that they were +anxious to explain, which I could not comprehend. The poor fellows seemed +quite disappointed, and endeavoured to beat it into Fraser's head with as +little success. I then desired Macnamee to get up into a tree. From the +upper branches of it he said he could see hills; but his account of their +appearance was such that I doubted his story: nevertheless it might have +been correct. He certainly called our attention to a large fire, as if the +country to the N.W. was in flames, so that it appeared we were approaching +the haunts of the natives at last. + +It happened that Fraser and Harris were for guard, and they sat up +laughing and talking with the natives long after we retired to rest. +Fraser, to beguile the hours, proposed shaving his sable companions, and +performed that operation with admirable dexterity upon their chief, to his +great delight. I got up at an early hour, and found to my surprise that +the whole of them had deserted us. Harris told me they had risen from the +fire about an hour before, and had crossed the river. I was a little +angry, but supposed they were aware that we were near some tribe, and had +gone on a-head to prepare and collect them. + +LARGE CONCOURSE OF NATIVES--THEIR HOSTILE DEMEANOUR. + +After breakfast, we proceeded onwards as usual. The river had increased so +much in width that, the wind being fair, I hoisted sail for the first +time, to save the strength of my men as much as possible. Our progress was +consequently rapid. We passed through a country that, from the nature of +its soil and other circumstances, appeared to be intersected by creeks and +lagoons. Vast flights of wild fowl passed over us, but always at a +considerable elevation, while, on the other hand, the paucity of ducks on +the river excited our surprise. Latterly, the trees upon the river, and in +its neighbourhood, had been a tortuous kind of box. The flooded-gum grew +in groups on the spaces subject to inundation, but not on the levels above +the influence of any ordinary rise of the stream. Still they were much +smaller than they were observed to be in the higher branches of the river. +We had proceeded about nine miles, when we were surprised by the +appearance in view, at the termination of a reach, of a long line of +magnificent trees of green and dense foliage. As we sailed down the reach, +we observed a vast concourse of natives under them, and, on a nearer +approach, we not only heard their war-song, if it might so be called, but +remarked that they were painted and armed, as they generally are, prior +to their engaging in deadly conflict. Notwithstanding these outward signs +of hostility, fancying that our four friends were with them, I continued +to steer directly in for the bank on which they were collected. I found, +however, when it was almost too late to turn into the succeeding reach +to our left, that an attempt to land would only be attended with loss of +life. The natives seemed determined to resist it. We approached so near +that they held their spears quivering in their grasp ready to hurl. They +were painted in various ways. Some who had marked their ribs, and thighs, +and faces with a white pigment, looked like skeletons, others were daubed +over with red and yellow ochre, and their bodies shone with the grease +with which they had besmeared themselves. A dead silence prevailed among +the front ranks, but those in the back ground, as well as the women, who +carried supplies of darts, and who appeared to have had a bucket of +whitewash capsized over their heads, were extremely clamorous. As I did +not wish a conflict with these people, I lowered my sail, and putting the +helm to starboard, we passed quietly down the stream in mid channel. +Disappointed in their anticipations, the natives ran along the bank of the +river, endeavouring to secure an aim at us; but, unable to throw with +certainty, in consequence of the onward motion of the boat, they flung +themselves into the most extravagant attitudes, and worked themselves into +a state of frenzy by loud and vehement shouting. + +PREPARATIONS FOR CONFLICT--UNEXPECTED INTERFERENCE. + +It was with considerable apprehension that I observed the river to be +shoaling fast, more especially as a huge sand-bank, a little below us, and +on the same side on which the natives had gathered, projected nearly a +third-way across the channel. To this sand-bank they ran with tumultuous +uproar, and covered it over in a dense mass. Some of the chiefs advanced +to the water to be nearer their victims, and turned from time to time to +direct their followers. With every pacific disposition, and an extreme +reluctance to take away life, I foresaw that it would be impossible any +longer to avoid an engagement, yet with such fearful numbers against us, +I was doubtful of the result. The spectacle we had witnessed had been one +of the most appalling kind, and sufficient to shake the firmness of most +men; but at that trying moment my little band preserved their temper +coolness, and if any thing could be gleaned from their countenances, it +was that they had determined on an obstinate resistance. I now explained +to them that their only chance of escape depended, or would depend, on +their firmness. I desired that after the first volley had been fired, +M'Leay and three of the men, would attend to the defence of the boat with +bayonets only, while I, Hopkinson, and Harris, would keep up the fire as +being more used to it. I ordered, however, that no shot was to be fired +until after I had discharged both my barrels. I then delivered their arms +to the men, which had as yet been kept in the place appropriated for them, +and at the same time some rounds of loose cartridge. The men assured me +they would follow my instructions, and thus prepared, having already +lowered the sail, we drifted onwards with the current. As we neared the +sand-bank, I stood up and made signs to the natives to desist; +but without success. I took up my gun, therefore, and cocking it, +had already brought it down to a level. A few seconds more would +have closed the life of the nearest of the savages. The distance +was too trifling for me to doubt the fatal effects of the discharge; +for I was determined to take deadly aim, in hopes that the fall of +one man might save the lives of many. But at the very moment, when +my hand was on the trigger, and my eye was along the barrel, my +purpose was checked by M'Leay, who called to me that another party of +blacks had made their appearance upon the left bank of the river. Turning +round, I observed four men at the top of their speed. The foremost of +them as soon as he got a-head of the boat, threw himself from a +considerable height into the water. He struggled across the channel to the +sand-bank, and in an incredibly short space of time stood in front of the +savage, against whom my aim had been directed. Seizing him by the throat, +he pushed backwards, and forcing all who were in the water upon the bank, +he trod its margin with a vehemence and an agitation that were exceedingly +striking. At one moment pointing to the boat, at another shaking his +clenched hand in the faces of the most forward, and stamping with passion +on the sand; his voice, that was at first distinct and clear, was lost in +hoarse murmurs. Two of the four natives remained on the left bank of the +river, but the third followed his leader, (who proved to be the remarkable +savage I have previously noticed) to the scene of action. The reader will +imagine our feelings on this occasion: it is impossible to describe them. +We were so wholly lost in interest at the scene that was passing, that the +boat was allowed to drift at pleasure. For my own part I was overwhelmed +with astonishment, and in truth stunned and confused; so singular, so +unexpected, and so strikingly providential, had been our escape. + +JUNCTION OF ANOTHER STREAM--PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE FROM DANGER. + +We were again roused to action by the boat suddenly striking upon a shoal, +which reached from one side of the river to the other. To jump out and +push her into deeper water was but the work of a moment with the men, and +it was just as she floated again that our attention was withdrawn to a new +and beautiful stream, coming apparently from the north. The great body of +the natives having posted themselves on the narrow tongue of land formed +by the two rivers, the bold savage who had so unhesitatingly interfered +on our account, was still in hot dispute with them, and I really feared +his generous warmth would have brought down upon him the vengeance of the +tribes. I hesitated, therefore, whether or not to go to his assistance. +It appeared, however, both to M'Leay and myself, that the tone of the +natives had moderated, and the old and young men having listened to the +remonstrances of our friend, the middle-aged warriors were alone holding +out against him. A party of about seventy blacks were upon the right bank +of the newly discovered river, and I thought that by landing among them, +we should make a diversion in favour of our late guest; and in this I +succeeded. If even they had still meditated violence, they would have to +swim a good broad junction, and that, probably, would cool them, or we +at least should have the advantage of position. I therefore, ran the boat +ashore, and landed with M'Leay amidst the smaller party of natives, wholly +unarmed, and having directed the men to keep at a little distance from the +bank. Fortunately, what I anticipated was brought about by the stratagem +to which I had had recourse. The blacks no sooner observed that we had +landed, than curiosity took place of anger. All wrangling ceased, and they +came swimming over to us like a parcel of seals. Thus, in less than a +quarter of an hour from the moment when it appeared that all human +intervention was at on end, and we were on the point of commencing a +bloody fray, which, independently of its own disastrous consequences, +would have blasted the success of the expedition, we were peacefully +surrounded by the hundreds who had so lately threatened us with +destruction; nor was it until after we had returned to the boat, and had +surveyed the multitude upon the sloping bank above us, that we became +fully aware of the extent of our danger, and of the almost miraculous +intervention of Providence in our favour. There could not have been less +than six hundred natives upon that blackened sward. But this was not the +only occasion upon which the merciful superintendance of that Providence +to which we had humbly committed ourselves, was strikingly manifested. +If these pages fail to convey entertainment or information, sufficient may +at least be gleaned from them to furnish matter for serious reflection; +but to those who have been placed in situations of danger where human +ingenuity availed them not, and where human foresight was baffled, I feel +persuaded that these remarks are unnecessary. + +NEW RIVER, SUPPOSED TO BE THE DARLING. + +It was my first care to call for our friend, and to express to him, as +well as I could, how much we stood indebted to him, at the same time that +I made him a suitable present; but to the chiefs of the tribes, +I positively refused all gifts, notwithstanding their earnest +solicitations. We next prepared to examine the new river, and turning the +boat's head towards it, endeavoured to pull up the stream. Our larboard +oars touched the right bank, and the current was too strong for us to +conquer it with a pair only; we were, therefore, obliged to put a second +upon her, a movement that excited the astonishment and admiration of the +natives. One old woman seemed in absolute ecstasy, to whom M'Leay threw an +old tin kettle, in recompense for the amusement she afforded us. + +HOIST THE UNION JACK. + +As soon as we got above the entrance of the new river, we found easier +pulling, and proceeded up it for some miles, accompanied by the once more +noisy multitude. The river preserved a breadth of one hundred yards, and a +depth of rather more than twelve feet. Its banks were sloping and grassy, +and were overhung by trees of magnificent size. Indeed, its appearance was +so different from the water-worn banks of the sister stream, that the men +exclaimed, on entering it, that we had got into an English river. Its +appearance certainly almost justified the expression; for the greenness of +its banks was as new to us as the size of its timber. Its waters, though +sweet, were turbid, and had a taste of vegetable decay, as well as a +slight tinge of green. Our progress was watched by the natives with +evident anxiety. They kept abreast of us, and talked incessantly. +At length, however, our course was checked by a net that stretched right +across the stream. I say checked, because it would have been unfair to +have passed over it with the chance of disappointing the numbers who +apparently depended on it for subsistence that day. The moment was one of +intense interest to me. As the men rested upon their oars, awaiting my +further orders, a crowd of thoughts rushed upon me. The various +conjectures I had formed of the course and importance of the Darling +passed across my mind. Were they indeed realized? An irresistible +conviction impressed me that we were now sailing on the bosom of that very +stream from whose banks I had been twice forced to retire. I directed the +Union Jack to be hoisted, and giving way to our satisfaction, we all stood +up in the boat, and gave three distinct cheers. It was an English feeling, +an ebullition, an overflow, which I am ready to admit that our +circumstances and situation will alone excuse. The eye of every native had +been fixed upon that noble flag, at all times a beautiful object, and to +them a novel one, as it waved over us in the heart of a desert. They had, +until that moment been particularly loquacious, but the sight of that flag +and the sound of our voices hushed the tumult, and while they were still +lost in astonishment, the boat's head was speedily turned, the sail was +sheeted home, both wind and current were in our favour, and we vanished +from them with a rapidity that surprised even ourselves, and which +precluded every hope of the most adventurous among them to keep up +with us. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + + +Character of the country--Damage of provisions--Adroitness of the natives +in catching fish--The skiff broken up--Stream from the North-East supposed +to be the Darling--Change of country in descending the river--Intercourse +with the natives--Prevalence of loathsome diseases among them--Apparent +populousness of the country--Junction of several small streams--The Rufus, +the Lindesay, &c.--Rainy and tempestuous weather--Curious appearance of +the banks--Troublesomeness of the natives--Inhospitable and desolate +aspect of the country--Condition of the men--Change in the geological +character of the country--The river passes through a valley among hills. + + +Arrived once more at the junction of the two rivers, and unmolested in our +occupations, we had leisure to examine it more closely. Not having as yet +given a name to our first discovery, when we re-entered its capacious +channel on this occasion, I laid it down as the Murray River, in +compliment to the distinguished officer, Sir George Murray, who then +presided over the colonial department, not only in compliance with the +known wishes of his Excellency General Darling, but also in accordance +with my own feelings as a soldier. + +The new river, whether the Darling or an additional discovery, meets its +more southern rival on a N. by E. course; the latter, running W.S.W. at +the confluence, the angle formed by the two rivers, is, therefore, so +small that both may he considered to preserve their proper course, and +neither can be said to be tributary to the other. At their junction, +the Murray spreads its waters over the broad and sandy shore, upon which +our boat grounded, while its more impetuous neighbour flows through the +deep but narrow channel it has worked out for itself, under the right +bank. The strength of their currents must have been nearly equal, since +there was as distinct a line between their respective waters, to a +considerable distance below the junction, as if a thin board alone +separated them. The one half the channel contained the turbid waters of +the northern stream, the other still preserved their original +transparency. + +INUNDATED AND ALLUVIAL COUNTRY. + +The banks of the Murray did not undergo any immediate change as we +proceeded. We noticed that the country had, at some time, been subject to +extensive inundation, and was, beyond doubt, of alluvial formation. We +passed the mouths of several large creeks that came from the north and +N.W., and the country in those directions seemed to be much intersected by +water-courses; while to the south it was extremely low. Having descended +several minor rapids, I greatly regretted that we had no barometer to +ascertain the actual dip of the interior. I computed, however, that we +were not more than from eighty to ninety feet above the level of the sea. +We found the channel of the Murray much encumbered with timber, and +noticed some banks of sand that were of unusual size, and equalled the +largest accumulations of it on the sea shore, both in extent and solidity. + +STATE OF PROVISIONS. + +We would gladly have fired into the flights of wild fowl that winged their +way over us, for we, about this time, began to feel the consequences of +the disaster that befell us in the Morumbidgee. The fresh water having got +mixed with the brine in the meat casks, the greater part of our salt +provisions had got spoiled, so that we were obliged to be extremely +economical in the expenditure of what remained, as we knew not to what +straits we might be driven. It will naturally be asked why we did not +procure fish? The answer is easy. The men had caught many in the +Morumbidgee, and on our first navigation of the Murray, but whether it was +that they had disagreed with them, or that their appetites were palled, or +that they were too fatigued after the labour of the day to set the lines, +they did not appear to care about them. The only fish we could take was +the common cod or perch; and, without sauce or butter, it is insipid +enough. We occasionally exchanged pieces of iron-hoop for two other kinds +of fish, the one a bream, the other a barbel, with the natives, and the +eagerness with which they met our advances to barter, is a strong proof of +their natural disposition towards this first step in civilization. + +DEXTERITY OF NATIVES IN FISHING. + +As they threw off all reserve when accompanying us as ambassadors, we had +frequent opportunities of observing their habits. The facility, for +instance, with which they procured fish was really surprising. They would +slip, feet foremost, into the water as they walked along the bank of the +river, as if they had accidentally done so, but, in reality, to avoid the +splash they would necessarily have made if they had plunged in head +foremost. As surely as they then disappeared under the surface of the +water, so surely would they re-appear with a fish writhing upon the point +of their short spears. The very otter scarcely exceeds them in power over +the finny race, and so true is the aim of these savages, even under water, +that all the fish we procured from them were pierced either close behind +the lateral fin, or in the very centre of the head, It is certain, from +their indifference to them, that the natives seldom eat fish when they can +get anything else. Indeed, they seemed more anxious to take the small +turtle, which, sunning themselves on the trunks or logs of trees over the +water, were, nevertheless, extremely on their guard. A gentle splash alone +indicated to us that any thing had dropped into the water, but the quick +eyes and ears of our guides immediately detected what had occasioned it, +and they seldom failed to take the poor little animal that had so vainly +trusted to its own watchfulness for security. It appeared that the natives +did not, from choice, frequent the Murray; it was evident, therefore, that +they had other and better means of subsistence away from it, and it struck +me, at the time, that the river we had just passed watered a better +country than any through which the Murray had been found to flow. + +BREAK UP THE SKIFF. + +We encamped rather earlier than usual upon the left bank of the river, +near a broad creek; for as the skiff had been a great drag upon us, I +determined on breaking it up, since there was no probability that we +should ever require the still, which alone remained in her. We, +consequently, burnt the former, to secure her nails and iron work, and I +set Clayton about cutting the copper of the latter into the shape of +crescents, in order to present them to the natives. Some large huts were +observed on the side of the creek, a little above the camp, the whole of +which faced the N.E. This arrangement had previously been noticed by us, +so that I was led to infer that the severest weather comes from the +opposite quarter in this part of the interior. I had not the least idea, +at the time, however, that we should, ere we reached the termination of +our journey, experience the effects of the S.W. winds. + +We must have fallen considerably during the day from the level of our +morning's position, for we passed down many reaches where the decline of +country gave an increased velocity to the current of the river. + +I had feared, not only in consequence of the unceremonious manner in +which we had left them, but, because I had, in some measure, rejected the +advances of their chiefs, that none of the natives would follow us, and I +regretted the circumstance on account of my men, as well as the trouble we +should necessarily have in conciliating the next tribe. We had not, +however, been long encamped, when seven blacks joined us. I think they +would have passed on if we had not called to them. As it was, they +remained with us but for a short time. We treated them very kindly, but +they were evidently under constraint, and were, no doubt, glad when they +found we did not object to their departing. + +NEW RIVER IDENTIFIED WITH THE DARLING. + +I have stated, that I felt satisfied in my own mind, that the beautiful +stream we had passed was no other than the river Darling of my former +journey. The bare assertion, however, is not sufficient to satisfy the +mind of the reader, upon a point of such importance, more especially when +it is considered how remarkable a change the Darling must have undergone, +if this were indeed a continuation of it. I am free to confess that it +required an effort to convince myself, but after due consideration, I see +no reason to alter the opinion I formed at a moment of peculiar +embarrassment. Yet it by no means follows that I shall convince others, +although I am myself convinced. The question is one of curious +speculation, and the consideration of it will lead us to an interesting +conjecture, as to the probable nature of the distant interior, between the +two points. It will be remembered that I was obliged to relinquish my +pursuit of the Darling, in east long. 144 degrees 48 minutes 30 seconds +in lat. 30 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds south. I place the junction of +the Murray and the new river, in long. 140 degrees 56 minutes east, and in +south lat. 34 degrees 3 minutes. I must remark, however, that the lunars I +took on this last occasion, were not satisfactory, and that there is, +probably, an error, though not a material one, in the calculation. Before +I measure the distance between the above points, or make any remarks on +the results of my own observations, I would impress the following facts +upon the reader's mind. + +I found and left the Darling in a complete state of exhaustion. As a river +it had ceased to flow; the only supply it received was from brine +springs, which, without imparting a current, rendered its waters saline +and useless, and lastly, the fish in it were different from those +inhabiting the other known rivers of the interior. It is true, I did not +procure a perfect specimen of one, but we satisfactorily ascertained that +they were different, inasmuch as they had large and strong scales, whereas +the fish in the western waters have smooth skins. On the other hand, the +waters of the new river were sweet, although turbid; it had a rapid +current in it; and its fish were of the ordinary kind. In the above +particulars, therefore, they differed much as they could well differ. Yet +there were some strong points of resemblance in the appearance of the +rivers themselves, which were more evident to me than I can hope to make +them to the reader. Both were shaded by trees of the same magnificent +dimensions; and the same kind of huts were erected on the banks of each, +inhabited by the same description, or race, of people, whose weapons, +whose implements, and whose nets corresponded in most respects. + +We will now cast our eyes over the chart: and see if the position of the +two rivers upon it, will at all bear out our conclusion that they are one +and the same; and whether the line that would join them is the one that +the Darling would naturally take, in reference to its previous +course.--We shall find that the two points under discussion, bear almost +N.E. and S.W. of each other respectively, the direct line in which the +Darling had been ascertained to flow, as far as it had been found +practicable to trace it. I have already remarked that the fracture of my +barometer prevented my ascertaining the height of the bed of the Darling +above the sea, during the first expedition. A similar accident caused me +equal disappointment on the second; because one of the most important +points upon which I was engaged was to ascertain the dip of the interior. +I believe I stated, in its proper place, that I did not think the Darling +could possibly be 200 feet above the sea, and as far as my observations +bear me out, I should estimate the bed of the Murray, at its junction with +the new river, to be within 100. It would appear that there is a distance +of 300 miles between the Murray River at this place, and the Darling; +a space amply sufficient for the intervention of a hilly country. No one +could have been more attentive to the features of the interior than I was; +nor could any one have dwelt upon their peculiarities with more earnest +attention. It were hazardous to build up any new theory, however ingenious +it may appear. The conclusions into which I have been led, are founded on +actual observation of the country through which I passed, and extend not +beyond my actual range of vision; unless my assuming that the decline of +the interior to the south has been satisfactorily established, be +considered premature. If not, the features of the country certainly +justify my deductions; and it will be found that they were still more +confirmed by subsequent observation.--That the Darling should have lost +its current in its upper branches, is not surprising, when the level +nature of the country into which it falls is taken into consideration; +neither does it surprise me that it should be stationary in one place, +and flowing in another; since, if, as in the present instance, there is a +great extent of country between the two points, which may perhaps be of +considerable elevation, the river may receive tributaries, whose waters +will of course follow the general decline of the country. I take it to be +so in the case before us; and am of opinion, that the lower branches of +the Darling are not at all dependent on its sources for a current, or for +a supply of water. I have somewhere observed that it appeared to me the +depressed interior over which I had already travelled, was of +comparatively recent formation. And, by whatever convulsion or change +so extensive a tract became exposed, I cannot but infer, that the Darling +is the main channel by which the last waters of the ocean were drained +off. The bottom of the estuary, for it cannot be called a valley, being +then left exposed, it consequently remains the natural and proper +reservoir for the streams from the eastward, or those falling easterly +from the westward, if any such remain to be discovered. + +From the junction of the Morumbidgee to the junction of the new river, the +Murray had held a W.N.W. course. From the last junction it changed its +direction to the S.W., and increased considerably in size. The country to +the south was certainly lower than that to the north; for, although both +banks had features common to each other, the flooded spaces were much +more extensive to our left than to our right. + +CHANGE OF COUNTRY. + +We started on the morning of the 24th, all the lighter from having got rid +of the skiff, and certainly freer to act in case the natives should evince +a hostile disposition towards us. As we proceeded down the river, the +appearances around us more and more plainly indicated a change of country. +Cypresses were observed in the distance, and the ground on which they +stood was higher than that near the stream; as if it had again acquired +its secondary banks. At length these heights approached the river so +nearly as to form a part of its banks, and to separate one alluvial flat +from another. Their summits were perfectly level; their soil was a red +sandy loam; and their productions, for the most part, salsolae and +misembrianthemum. From this it would appear that we had passed through a +second region, that must at some time have been under water, and that +still retained all the marks of a country partially subject to flood. + +INTRODUCED FROM TRIBE TO TRIBE. + +We had, as I have said, passed over this region, and were again hemmed in +by those sandy and sterile tracts upon which the beasts of the field could +obtain neither food nor water. We overtook the seven deputies some time +after we started, but soon lost sight of them again, as they cut off the +sweeps of the river, and shortened their journey as much as possible. +At 2 p.m. we found them with a tribe of their countrymen, about eighty in +number. We pulled in to the bank and remained with them for a short time, +and I now determined to convince the blacks who had preceded us, that I +had not been actuated by any other desire than that of showing to them +that we were not to be intimidated by numbers, when I refused to make them +any presents after their show of hostility. I now, therefore, gave them +several implements, sundry pieces of iron hoop, and an ornamental badge of +copper. When we left the tribe, we were regularly handed over to their +care. The seven men who had introduced us, went back at the same time that +we continued our journey, and two more belonging to the new tribe, went on +a-head to prepare the the neighbouring tribe to receive us; nor did we see +anything more of them during the day. + +We encamped on the left bank of the river, amidst a polygonum scrub, in +which we found a number of the crested pigeon. It was late before the +tents were pitched: as Fraser seldom assisted in that operation, but +strolled out with his gun after he had kindled a fire, so on this occasion +he wandered from the camp in search of novelty, and on his return, +informed me that there was a considerable ridge to the south of a plain +upon which he had been. + +I had myself walked out to the S.E., and on ascending a few feet above the +level of the camp, got into a scrub. I was walking quietly through it, +when I heard a rustling noise, and looking in the direction whence it +proceeded, I observed a small kangaroo approaching me. Having a stick in +my hand, and being aware that I was in one of their paths, I stood still +until the animal came close up to me, without apparently being aware of my +presence. I then gave it a blow an the side of the head, and made it reel +to one side, but the stick, being rotten, broke with the force of the +blow, and thus disappointed me of a good meal. + +During my absence from the camp, a flight of cockatoos, new to us, but +similar to one that Mr. Hume shot on the Darling, passed over the tents, +and I found M'Leay, with his usual anxiety, trying to get a shot at them. +They had, he told me, descended to water, but they had chosen a spot so +difficult of approach without discovery, that he had found it impossible +to get within shot of them. + +RIDGE TO THE SOUTH-EAST. + +There was a considerable rapid just below our position, which I examined +before dark. Not seeing any danger, I requested M'Leay to proceed down it +in the boat as soon as he had breakfasted, and to wait for me at the +bottom of it. As I wished to ascertain the nature and height of the +elevations which Fraser had magnified into something grand, Fraser and I +proceeded to the centre of a large plain, stretching from the left bank of +the river to the southward. It was bounded to the S.E. by a low scrub; +to the S. a thickly wooded ridge appeared to break the level of the +country. It extended from east to west for four or five miles, and then +gradually declined. At its termination, the country seemed to dip, and a +dense fog, as from an extensive sheet of water, enveloped the landscape. +The plain was crowded with cockatoos, that were making their morning's +repast on the berries of the salsolae and rhagodia, with which it was +covered. + +DISTANT RANGES SEEN. + +M'Leay had got safely down the rapid, so that as soon as I joined him, +we proceeded on our journey. We fell in with the tribe we had already +seen, but increased in numbers, and we had hardly left them, when we found +another tribe most anxiously awaiting our arrival. We stayed with the last +for some time, and exhausted our vocabulary, and exerted our ingenuity to +gain some information from them. I directed Hopkinson to pile up some +clay, to enquire if we were near any hills, when two or three of the +blacks caught the meaning, and pointed to the N.W. Mulholland climbed up a +tree in consequence of this, and reported to me that he saw lofty ranges +in the direction to which the blacks pointed; that there were two +apparently, the one stretching to the N.E., the other to the N.W. He +stated their distance to be about forty miles, and added that he thought +he could observe other ranges, through the gap, which, according to the +alignment of two sticks, that I placed according to Mulholland's +directions, bore S. 130 W. + +We had landed upon the right bank of the river, and there was a large +lagoon immediately behind us. The current in the river did not run so +strong as it had been. Its banks were much lower, and were generally +covered with reeds. The spaces subject to flood were broader than +heretofore, and the country for more than twenty miles was extremely +depressed. Our view from the highest ground near the camp was very +confined, since we were apparently in a hollow, and were unable to obtain +a second sight of the ranges we had noticed. + +PASS THREE CREEKS. + +Three creeks fell into the Murray hereabouts. One from the north, another +from the N.E., and the third from the south. The two first were almost +choked up with the trunks of trees, but the last had a clear channel. +Our tents stood on ground high above the reach of flood. The soil was +excellent, and the brushes behind us abounded with a new species of +melaleuca. + +The heat of the weather, at this time, was extremely oppressive, and the +thermometer was seldom under 100 degrees of Fahr. at noon. The wind, too, +we observed, seldom remained stationary for any length of time, but made +its regular changes every twenty-four hours. In the morning, it invariably +blew from the N.E., at noon it shifted to N.W., and as the sun set it flew +round to the eastward of south. A few dense clouds passed over us +occasionally, but no rain fell from them. + +DISEASES OF THE NATIVES. + +Our intercourse with the natives had now been constant. We had found the +interior more populous than we had any reason to expect; yet as we +advanced into it, the population appeared to increase. It was impossible +for us to judge of the disposition of the natives during the short +interviews we generally had with them, and our motions were so rapid that +we did not give them time to form any concerted plan of attack, had they +been inclined to attack us. They did not, however, show any disposition to +hostility, but, considering all things, were quiet and orderly, nor did +any instances of theft occur, or, at least, none fell under my notice. +The most loathsome of diseases prevailed throughout the tribes, nor were +the youngest infants exempt from them. Indeed, so young were some, whose +condition was truly disgusting, that I cannot but suppose they must have +been born in a state of disease; but I am uncertain whether it is fatal or +not in its results, though, most probably it hurries many to a premature +grave. How these diseases originated it is impossible to say. Certainly +not from the colony, since the midland tribes alone were infected. +Syphilis raged amongst them with fearful violence; many had lost their +noses, and all the glandular parts were considerably affected. I +distributed some Turner's cerate to the women, but left Fraser to +superintend its application. It could do no good, of course, but it +convinced the natives we intended well towards them, and, on that account, +it was politic to give it, setting aside any humane feeling. + +POPULOUS DISTRICT. + +The country through which we passed on the 28th, was extremely low, full +of lagoons, and thickly inhabited. No change took place in the river, +or in the nature and construction of its banks. We succeeded in getting a +view of the hills we had noticed when with the last tribe, and found that +they bore from us due north, N. 22 E., and S. 130 W. They looked bare and +perpendicular, and appeared to be about twenty miles from us. I am very +uncertain as to the character of these hills, but still think that they +must have been some of the faces of the bold cliffs that we had frequently +passed under. From the size and number of the huts, and from the great +breadth of the foot-paths, we were still further led to conclude that we +were passing through a very populous district. What the actual number of +inhabitants was it is impossible to say, but we seldom communicated with +fewer than 200 daily. They sent ambassadors forward regularly from one +tribe to another, in order to prepare for our approach, a custom that not +only saved us an infinity of time, but also great personal risk. Indeed, +I doubt very much whether we should ever have pushed so far down the +river, had we not been assisted by the natives themselves. I was +particularly careful not to do anything that would alarm them, or to +permit any liberty to be taken with their women. Our reserve in this +respect seemed to excite their surprise, for they asked sundry questions, +by signs and expressions, as to whether we had any women, and where they +were. The whole tribe generally assembled to receive us, and all, without +exception, were in a complete state of nudity, and really the loathsome +condition and hideous countenances of the women would, I should imagine, +have been a complete antidote to the sexual passion. It is to be observed, +that the women are very inferior in appearance to the men. The latter are, +generally speaking, a clean-limbed and powerful race, much stouter in the +bust than below, but withal, active, and, in some respects, intelligent; +but the women are poor, weak, and emaciated. This, perhaps, is owing to +their poverty and paucity of food, and to the treatment they receive at +the hands of the men; but the latter did not show any unkindness towards +them in our presence. + +Although I desired to avoid exciting their alarm, I still made a point of +showing them the effects of a gunshot, by firing at a kite, or any other +bird that happened to be near. My dexterity--for I did not trust Fraser, +who would, ten to one, have missed his mark--was generally exerted, as I +have said, against a kite or a crow; both of which birds generally +accompanied the blacks from place to place to pick up the remnants of +their meals. Yet, I was often surprised at the apparent indifference with +which the natives not only saw the effect of the shot, but heard the +report. I have purposely gone into the centre of a large assemblage and +fired at a bird that has fallen upon their very heads, without causing a +start or an exclamation, without exciting either their alarm or their +curiosity. + +Whence this callous feeling proceeded, whether from strength of nerve, +or because they had been informed by our forerunners that we should show +off before them, I know not, but I certainly expected a very different +effect from that which my firing generally produced, although I +occasionally succeeded in scattering them pretty well. + +JUNCTION OF THE RUFUS. + +About 11 a.m., we arrived at the junction of a small river with the +Murray, at which a tribe, about 250 in number, had assembled to greet us. +We landed, therefore, for the double purpose of distributing presents, and +of examining the junction, which, coming from the north, of course, fell +into the Murray upon its right bank. Its waters were so extremely muddy, +and its current so rapid, that it must have been swollen by some late +rains. Perhaps, it had its sources in the hills we had seen; be that as it +may, it completely discoloured the waters of the Murray. + +We made it a point never to distribute any presents among the natives +until we had made them all sit, or stand, in a row. Sometimes this was a +troublesome task, but we generally succeeded in gaining our point; with a +little exertion of patience. M'Leay was a famous hand at ordering the +ranks, and would, I am sure, have made a capital drill-sergeant, not less +on account of his temper than of his perseverance. I called the little +tributary I have noticed, the Rufus, in honour of my friend M'Leay's red +head, and I have no doubt, he will understand the feeling that induced me +to give it such a name. + +GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATION. + +Not many miles below the Rufus, we passed under a lofty cliff upon the +same side with it. It is the first elevation of any consequence that +occurs below the Darling, and not only on that account, but also on +account of the numerous substances of which it is composed, and the +singular formation that is near requires to be particularly +noticed. [See Appendix.] The examination was a task of considerable +danger, and both Fraser and myself had well nigh been buried under a mass +of the cliff that became suddenly detached, and, breaking into thousands +of pieces, went hissing and cracking into the river. + +THUNDER STORMS. + +The weather about this time was extremely oppressive and close. Thunder +clouds darkened the sky, but no rain fell. The thermometer was seldom +below 104 at noon, and its range was very trifling. The wind shifted +several times during the twenty-four hours; but these changes had no +effect on the thermometer. It was evident, however, as the sun set on the +evening of the 26th, that the clouds from which thunder had for the last +four or five days disturbed the silence of nature around us, would not +long support their own weight. A little before midnight, it commenced +raining, and both wind and rain continued to increase in violence until +about seven in the morning of the 27th; when the weather moderated. + +Two or three blacks had accompanied us from the last tribe, and had lain +down near the fire. As the storm increased, however, they got up, and +swimming across the river, left us to ourselves. This was a very unusual +thing, nor can I satisfy myself as to their object, unless it was to get +into shelter, for these people though they wander naked over the country, +and are daily in the water, feel the cold and rain very acutely. + +Observing the clouds collecting for so many days, I indulged hopes that we +were near high lands, perhaps mountains; but from the loftiest spots we +could see nothing but a level and dark horizon. Anxious to gain as correct +a knowledge of the country as possible we had, in the course of the day, +ascended a sandy ridge that was about a mile from the river. The view from +the summit of this ridge promised to be more extensive than any we had of +late been enabled to obtain; and as far as actual observation went, we +were not disappointed, although in every other particular, the landscape +was one of the most unpromising description. To the S. and S.E., the +country might be said to stretch away in one unbroken plain, for it was so +generally covered with wood that every inequality was hidden from our +observation. To the S.W. the river line was marked out by a succession of +red cliffs, similar to those we had already passed. To the north, the +interior was evidently depressed; it was overgrown with a low scrub, and +seemed to be barren in the extreme. The elevations upon which we stood +were similar to the sand-hills near the coast, and had not a blade of +grass upon them. Yet, notwithstanding the sterility of the soil, the +large white amarillis which grew in such profusion on the alluvial plains +of the Macquarie, was also abundant here. But it had lost its dazzling +whiteness, and had assumed a sickly yellow colour and its very appearance +indicated that it was not in a congenial soil. + +LINDESAY RIVER. + +We passed two very considerable junctions, the one coming from the S.E., +the other from the north. Both had currents in them, but the former was +running much stronger than the latter. It falls into the Murray, almost +opposite to the elevations I have been describing, and, if a judgment +can be hazarded from its appearance at its embouchure, it must, in its +higher branches, be a stream of considerable magnitude. Under this +impression, I have called it the Lindesay, as a tribute of respect to my +commanding officer, Colonel Patrick Lindesay of the 39th regt. I place it +in east long. 140 degrees 29 minutes, and in lat. 33 degrees 58 minutes +south. Mr. Hume is of opinion that this is the most southerly of the +rivers crossed by him and Mr. Hovel in 1823; but, as I have already +remarked, I apprehend that all the rivers those gentlemen crossed, had +united in one main stream above the junction of the Morumbidgee, and I +think it much more probable that this is a new river, and that it rises +to the westward of Port Phillips, rather than in the S.E. angle of the +coast. + +NATIVES BECOME TROUBLESOME. + +We found the blacks who had deserted us with a tribe at the junction, but +it was weak in point of numbers; as were also two other tribes or hordes +to whom we were introduced in rapid succession. Taken collectively, they +could not have amounted to 230 men, women, and children. The last of these +hordes was exceedingly troublesome, and I really thought we should have +been obliged to quarrel with them. Whether it was that we were getting +impatient, or that our tempers were soured, I know not, but even M'Leay, +whose partiality towards the natives was excessive at the commencement of +our journey, now became weary of such constant communication as we had +kept up with them. Their sameness of appearance, the disgusting diseases +that raged among them, their abominable filth, the manner in which they +pulled us about, and the impossibility of making them understand us, or +of obtaining any information from them,--for if we could have succeeded +in this point, we should have gladly borne every inconvenience,--all +combined to estrange us from these people and to make their presence +disagreeable. Yet there was an absolute necessity to keep up the chain of +communication, to ensure our own safety, setting aside every other +consideration; but as I had been fortunate in my intercourse with the +natives during the first expedition, so I hoped the present journey would +terminate without the occurrence of any fatal collision between us. The +natives, it is true, were generally quiet; but they crowded round us +frequently without any regard to our remonstrances, laying hold of the +boat to prevent our going away, and I sometimes thought that had any of +them been sufficiently bold to set the example, many of the tribes would +have attempted our capture. Indeed, in several instances, we were obliged +to resort to blows ere we could disengage ourselves from the crowds around +us, and whenever this occurred, it called forth the most sullen and +ferocious scowl--such, probably, as would be the forerunner of hostility, +and would preclude every hope of mercy at their hands. With each new tribe +we were, in some measure, obliged to submit to an examination, and to be +pulled about, and fingered all over. They generally measured our hands and +feet with their own, counted our fingers, felt our faces, and besmeared +our shirts all over with grease and dirt. This was no very agreeable +ceremony, and a repetition of it was quite revolting, more especially when +we had to meet the grins or frowns of the many with firmness and +composure. + +TEMPESTUOUS WEATHER. + +The weather had been tempestuous and rainy, for three or four successive +days: on the 28th it cleared up a little. Under any circumstances, +however, we could not have delayed our journey. We had not proceeded very +far when it again commenced to rain and to blow heavily from the N.W. +The river trended to the South. We passed down several rapids, and +observed the marks of recent flood on the trees, to the height of seven +feet. The alluvial flats did not appear to have been covered, or to be +subject to overflow. The timber upon them was not of a kind that is found +on flooded lands, but wherever reeds prevailed the flooded or blue gum +stretched its long white branches over them. The country to the westward +was low and bushy. + +SINGULAR FORMATION OF THE BANKS. + +The left bank of the Murray was extremely lofty, and occasionally rose to +100 feet perpendicularly from the water. It is really difficult to +describe the appearance of the banks at this place; so singular were they +in character, and so varied in form. Here they had the most beautiful +columnar regularity, with capitals somewhat resembling the Corinthian +order in configuration; there they showed like falls of muddy water that +had suddenly been petrified; and in another place they resembled the +time-worn battlements of a feudal castle. It will naturally be asked, of +what could these cliffs have been composed to assume so many different +forms? and what could have operated to produce such unusual appearances? +The truth is, they were composed almost wholly of clay and sand. Wherever +the latter had accumulated, or predominated, the gradual working of +water had washed it away, and left the more compact body, in some places, +so delicately hollowed out, that it seemed rather the work of art than of +nature. This singular formation rested on a coarse grit, that showed +itself in slabs. + +From the frequent occurrence of rapids I should imagine that we had fallen +considerably, but there was no visible decline of country. The river swept +along, in broad and noble reaches, at the base of the cliffs. Vast +accumulations of sand were in its bed, a satisfactory proof of the sandy +character of the distant interior, if other proof were wanting. + +We did not see so many natives on the 28th as we had been in the habit of +seeing; perhaps in consequence of the boisterous weather. A small tribe of +about sixty had collected to receive us, but we passed on without taking +any notice of them, Nevertheless they deputed two of their men to follow +us, who overtook us just as we stopped for the purpose of pitching our +tents before the clouds should burst, that just then bore the most +threatening appearance. The blacks seemed to be perfectly aware what kind +of a night we should have, and busied themselves preparing a hut and +making a large fire. + +The evening proved extremely dark, and towards midnight it blew and rained +fiercely. Towards morning the wind moderated, and the rain ceased. Still, +the sky was overcast, and the clouds were passing rapidly over us. The +wind had, however, changed some points, and from the N.W. had veered round +to the S.S.W.; and the day eventually turned out cool and pleasant. + +LARGE TRIBE OF NATIVES--THEIR INDIFFERENCE TO FIRE-ARMS. + +We fell in with a large tribe of natives, amounting in all to 270. They +were extremely quiet, and kept away from the boat; in consequence of which +I distributed a great many presents among them. This tribe was almost the +only one that evinced any eagerness to see us. The lame had managed to +hobble along, and the blind were equally anxious to touch us. There were +two or three old men stretched upon the bank, from whom the last sigh +seemed about to depart; yet these poor creatures evinced an anxiety to see +us, and to listen to a description of our appearance, although it seemed +doubtful whether they would be alive twenty-four hours after we left them. +An old woman, a picture of whom would disgust my readers, made several +attempts to embrace me. I managed, however, to avoid her, and at length +got rid of her by handing her over to Fraser, who was no wise particular +as to the object of his attention. This tribe must have been one of the +most numerous on the banks of the Murray, since we fell in with detached +families for many miles below the place where we had parted from the main +body. + +I have omitted to mention that, while among them, I fired at a kite and +killed it; yet, though close to me, the blacks did not start or evince the +least surprise. It really is difficult to account for such firmness of +nerve or self-command. It is not so much a matter of surprise that they +were indifferent to its effects, for probably they knew them not, but it +is certainly odd that they should not have been startled by the report. + +The river inclined very much to the southward for some miles below our +last camp; at length it struck against some elevations that turned it more +to the westward. Before we terminated our day's pull it again changed its +direction to the eastward of south. The right bank became lofty, and the +left proportionably depressed. + +REFLECTIONS ON THE PROGRESS OF THE EXPEDITION. + +In consequence of the boisterous weather we had had, we were uncertain as +to our precise situation, even in point of latitude. But I was perfectly +aware that we were considerably to the south of the head of St. Vincent's +Gulf. I began, therefore, to contemplate with some confidence a speedy +termination to our wanderings, or, at least, that we should soon reach the +extreme point to which we could advance. The sun was at this time out of +my reach, since the sextant would not measure double the altitude. +Observations of the stars were, in like manner, uncertain, in consequence +of the boisterous weather we had had, and the unavoidable agitation of the +quicksilver. My last observation of Antares placed us in latitude +34 degrees 4 minutes; so that we were still 115 miles from the coast. + +We had now been twenty-two days upon the river, and it was uncertain how +long we should be in compassing the distance we had still to run. +Considering all things, we had, as yet, been extremely fortunate; and I +hoped that we should terminate our journey without the occurrence of any +fatal accident. Had the country corresponded with the noble stream that +traversed it, we should have been proportionably elated, but it was +impossible to conceal from ourselves its inhospitable and unprofitable +character, as far as we had, as yet, penetrated. If we except the partial +and alluvial flats on the immediate borders, and in the neighbourhood of +its tributaries and creeks, the Murray might be said to flow through a +barren and sandy interior. The appearance of the country through which we +passed on the 29th, was far from being such as to encourage us with the +hopes of any change for the better. The river was enclosed, on either +side, by the same kind of banks that have already been described; and it +almost appeared as if the plain had been rent asunder to allow of a +passage for its waters. The view of the distant interior was +unsatisfactory. It was, for the most part, covered with brush, but, at +length, cypresses again made their appearance, although at a considerable +distance from us. + +The river continued to flow to the southward, a circumstance that gave me +much satisfaction, for I now began to feel some anxiety about the men. +They had borne their fatigues and trials so cheerfully, and had behaved so +well, that I could not but regret the scanty provision that remained for +them. The salt meat being spoiled, it had fallen to the share of the dogs, +so that we had little else than flour to eat. Fish no one would touch, and +of wild fowl there were none to be seen. The men complained of sore eyes, +from the perspiration constantly running into them, and it was obvious to +me that they were much reduced. It will be borne in mind, that we were now +performing the earliest part of our task, and were going down with the +stream. I was sure that on our return, (For I had no hopes of meeting any +vessel on the coast,) we should have to make every day's journey good +against the current; and, if the men were now beginning to sink, it might +well be doubted whether their strength would hold out. Both M'Leay and +myself, therefore, encouraged any cheerfulness that occasionally broke out +among them, and Frazer enlivened them by sundry tunes that he whistled +whilst employed in skinning birds. I am sure, no galley-slave ever took to +his oar with more reluctance than poor Frazer. He was indefatigable in +most things, but he could not endure the oar. + +NATIVES BECOME UNRULY. + +We did not fall in with any natives on the 30th, neither did we see those +who had preceded us from the last tribe. On the 31st, to my mortification, +the river held so much to the northward, that we undid almost all our +southing. What with its regular turns, and its extensive sweeps, the +Murray covers treble the ground, at a moderate computation, that it would +occupy in a direct course; and we had a practical instance of the truth of +this in the course of the afternoon, when we found our friends ready to +introduce us to a large assemblage of natives. On asking them how they had +passed us, they pointed directly east to the spot at which we had parted. +By crossing from one angle of the river to the other, they had performed +in little more than half a day, a journey which it had taken us two long +days to accomplish. After our usual distribution of presents, we pushed +away from the bank; though not without some difficulty, in consequence of +the obstinacy of the natives in wishing to detain us; and I was +exceedingly vexed to find, while we were yet in sight of them, that we had +proceeded down a shallow channel on one side of an island instead of the +further and deeper one; so that the boat ultimately grounded. A crowd of +the blacks rushed into the water, and surrounded us on every side. Some +came to assist us, others, under a pretence of assisting, pulled against +us, and I was at length obliged to repel them by threats. A good many of +them were very much disposed to annoy us, and, after the boat was in deep +water, some of them became quite infuriated, because we would not return. +Had we been within distance, they would assuredly have hurled their spears +at us. Thirteen of them followed us to our resting place. They kept rather +apart from us, and kindled their fire in a little hollow about fifty paces +to our right; nor did they venture to approach the tents unless we called +to them, so that by their quiet and unobtrusive conduct they made up in +some measure for the unruly proceedings of others of their tribe. + +We had now arrived at a point at which I hoped to gain some information +from the natives, respecting the sea. It was to no purpose, however, that +I questioned these stupid people. They understood perfectly, by my +pointing to the sky, and by other signs, that I was inquiring about large +waters, but they could not, or would not, give any information on the +subject. + +CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY. + +As we proceeded down the river, its current became weaker, and its channel +somewhat deeper. Our attention was called to a remarkable change in the +geology of the country, as well as to an apparent alteration in the +natural productions. The cliffs of sand and clay ceased, and were +succeeded by a fossil formation of the most singular description. At +first, it did not exceed a foot in height above the water, but it +gradually rose, like an inclined plane, and resembled in colour, and in +appearance, the skulls of men piled one upon the other. The constant +rippling of the water against the rock had washed out the softer parts, +and made hollows and cavities, that gave the whole formation the precise +appearance of a catacomb. On examination, we discovered it to be a compact +bed of shells, composed of a common description of marine shell from two +to three inches in length, apparently a species of turritella. + +BANKS OF PETRIFIED SHELLS. + +At about nine miles from the commencement of this formation, it rose to +the height of more than 150 feet; the country became undulating, and a +partial change took place in its vegetation. We stopped at an early hour, +to examine some cliffs, which rising perpendicularly from the water, were +different in character and substance from any we had as yet seen. They +approached a dirty yellow-ochre in colour, that became brighter in hue as +it rose, and, instead of being perforated, were compact and hard. +The waters of the river had, however, made horizontal lines upon their +fronts, which distinctly marked the rise and fall of the river, as the +strength or depth of the grooves distinctly indicated the levels it +generally kept. It did not appear from these lines, that the floods ever +rose more than four feet above the then level of the stream, or that they +continued for any length of time. On breaking off pieces of the rock, we +ascertained that it was composed of one solid mass of sea-shells, of +various kinds, of which the species first mentioned formed the lowest +part. + +It rained a good deal during the night, but the morning turned out +remarkably fine. The day was pleasant, for however inconvenient in some +respects the frequent showers had been, they had cooled the air, and +consequently prevented our feeling the heat so much as we should otherwise +have done, in the close and narrow glen we had now entered. + +Among the natives who followed us from the last tribe, there was an old +man, who took an uncommon fancy or attachment to Hopkinson, and who +promised, when we separated, to join us again in the course of the day. + +FACE OF THE COUNTRY. + +As we proceeded down the river we found that it was confined in a glen, +whose extreme breadth was not more than half-a-mile. The hills that rose +on either side of it were of pretty equal height. The alluvial flats were +extremely small, and the boldest cliffs separated them from each other. +The flats were lightly wooded, and were for the most part covered with +reeds or polygonum. They were not much elevated above the waters of the +river, and had every appearance of being frequently inundated. At noon we +pulled up to dine, upon the left bank, under some hills, which were from +200 to 250 feet in height. While the men were preparing our tea, +(for we had only that to boil,) M'Leay and I ascended the hills. The brush +was so thick upon them, that we could not obtain a view of the distant +interior. Their summits were covered with oyster-shells, in such abundance +as entirely to preclude the idea of their having been brought to such a +position by the natives. They were in every stage of petrification. + +In the course of the afternoon the old man joined us, and got into the +boat. As far as we could understand from his signs, we were at no great +distance from some remarkable change or other. The river had been making +to the N.W., from the commencement of the fossil formation, and it +appeared as if it was inclined to keep that direction. The old man pointed +to the N.W., and then placed his hand on the side of his head to indicate, +as I understood him, that we should sleep to the N.W. of where we then +were; but his second motion was not so intelligible, for he pointed due +south, as if to indicate that such would be our future course; and he +concluded his information, such as it was, by describing the roaring of +the sea, and the height of the waves. It was evident this old man had been +upon the coast, and we were therefore highly delighted at the prospect +thus held out to us of reaching it. + +REMARKABLE CLIFFS. + +A little below the hills under which we had stopped, the country again +assumed a level. A line of cliffs, of from two to three hundred feet in +height, flanked the river, first on one side and then on the other, +varying in length from a quarter of a mile to a mile. They rose +perpendicularly from the water, and were of a bright yellow colour, +rendered still more vivid occasionally by the sun shining full upon them. +The summits of these cliffs were as even as if they had been built by an +architect; and from their very edge, the country back from the stream was +of an uniform level, and was partly plain, and partly clothed by brush. +The soil upon this plateau, or table land, was sandy, and it was as barren +and unproductive as the worst of the country we had passed through. On the +other hand, the alluvial flats on the river increased in size, and were +less subject to flood; and the river lost much of its sandy bed, and its +current was greatly diminished in strength. + +NATIVE CHARACTER. + +It blew so fresh, during the greater part of the day, from the westward, +that we had great difficulty in pulling against the breeze. The determined +N.W. course the river kept, made me doubt the correctness of the story of +the little old black; yet there was an openness of manner about him, and a +clearness of description, that did not appear like fabrication. He pointed +to the S.S.W. when he left us, as the direction in which he would again +join us, thus confirming, without any apparent intention, what he had +stated with regard to the southerly course the river was about to take. +Among the natives who were with him, there was another man of very +different manners and appearance. Our friend was small in stature, had +piercing grey eyes, and was as quick as lightning in his movements The +other was tall, and grey headed; anxious, yet unobtrusive; and confident, +without the least mixture of boldness. The study of the human character on +many occasions similar to this, during our intercourse with these people, +rude and uncivilized as they were, was not only pleasing, but instructive. +We found that the individuals of a tribe partook of one general character, +and that the whole of the tribe were either decidedly quiet, or as +decidedly disorderly. The whole of the blacks left us when we started, +but we had not gone very far, when the individual I have described brought +his family, consisting of about fifteen persons. We were going down a part +of the river in which there was a very slight fall. The natives were +posted under some blue-gum trees, upon the right bank, and there was a +broad shoal of sand immediately to our left. They walked over to this +shoal, to receive some little presents, but did not follow when we +continued our journey. + +TAKE BEARINGS. + +During the whole of the day the river ran to the N.W. We stopped for the +night under some cliffs, similar to those we had already passed, but +somewhat higher. From their summit, mountains were visible to the N.W., +but at a great distance from us. I doubted not that they were at the head +of the southern gulfs; or of one of them, at all events. Our observations +placed us in 34 degrees 08 minutes south of lat., and in long. 139 degrees +41 minutes 15 seconds; we were consequently nearly seventy miles from +Spencer's Gulf, in a direct line, and I should have given that as the +distance the hills appeared to be from us. They bore as follows:-- + + Lofty round mountain, S. 127 degrees W. + Mountain scarcely visible, S. 128 degrees W. + Northern extremity of a broken range, S. 102 degrees W. + Southern extremity scarcely visible, S. 58 degrees W. + +The country between the river and these ranges appeared to be very low, +and darkly wooded: that to the N.E. was more open. The summit of the cliff +did not form any table-land, but it dipped almost immediately to the +westward, and the country, although, as I have already remarked, it was +depressed, and undulated. + +I walked to some distance from the river, across a valley, and started +several kangaroos; but I was quite alone, and could not, therefore, secure +one of them. Had the dogs been near, we should have had a fine feast. The +soil of the interior still continued sandy, but there was a kind of short +grass mixed with the salsolaceous plants upon it, that indicated, as I +thought, a change for the better in the vegetation; and the circumstance +of there being kangaroos in the valleys to the westward was also a +favourable sign. + +FEAST ON A TORTOISE. + +Beneath the cliffs hereabouts, the river was extremely broad and deep. +My servant thought it a good place for fishing and accordingly set a +night-line, one end of which he fastened to the bough of a tree. During +the night, being on guard, he saw a small tortoise floating on the water, +so near that he struck it a violent blow with a large stick, upon which it +dived: to his surprise, however, in the morning, he found that it had +taken the bait, and was fast to the line. On examining it, the shell +proved to be cracked, so that the blow must have been a severe one. It was +the largest we had ever seen, and made an excellent dish. The flesh was +beautifully white, nor could anything, especially under our circumstances, +have been more tempting than it was when cooked; yet M'Leay would not +partake of it. + +The prevailing wind was, at this time, from the S.W. It blew heavily all +day, but moderated towards the evening + +I was very anxious, at starting on the 3rd, as to the course the river +would take, since it would prove whether the little old man had played us +false or not. From the cliffs under which we had slept, it held a direct +N.W. course for two or three miles. It then turned suddenly to the S.E., +and gradually came round to E.N.E., so that after two hours pulling, we +found ourselves just opposite to the spot from which we had started, the +neck of land that separated the channels not being more than 200 yards +across. I have before noticed a bend similar to this, which the Murray +makes, a little above the junction of the supposed Darling with it. + +CHART OF THE RIVER. + +It may appear strange to some of my readers, that I should have laid down +the windings of the river so minutely. It may therefore be necessary for +me to state that every bend of it was laid down by compass, and that the +bearings of the angles as they opened were regularly marked by me, so that +not a single winding or curve of the Murray is omitted in the large chart. +The length of some of the reaches may be erroneous, but their direction is +strictly correct. I always had a sheet of paper and the compass before me, +and not only marked down the river line, but also the description of +country nearest; its most minute changes, its cliffs, its flats, the kind +of country back from it, its lagoons, the places at which the tribes +assembled, its junctions, tributaries and creeks, together with our +several positions, were all regularly noted, so that on our return up the +river we had no difficulty in ascertaining upon what part of it we were, +by a reference to the chart; and it proved of infinite service to us, +since we were enabled to judge of our distance from our several camps, as +we gained them day by day with the current against us; and we should often +have stopped short of them, weary and exhausted, had we not known that two +or three reaches more would terminate our labour for the day. + +REMARKABLE CLIFFS. + +From the spot last spoken of, the river held on a due south course for the +remainder of the day; and at the same time changed its character. It lost +its sandy bed and its current together, and became deep, still, and +turbid, with a muddy bottom. It increased considerably in breadth, and +stretched away before us in magnificent reaches of from three to six miles +in length. The cliffs under which we passed towered above us, like +maritime cliffs, and the water dashed against their base like the waves of +the sea. They became brighter and brighter in colour, looking like dead +gold in the sun's rays; and formed an unbroken wall of a mile or two in +length. The natives on their summits showed as small as crows; and the +cockatoos, the eagles, and other birds, were as specks above us; the +former made the valley reverberate with their harsh and discordant notes. +The reader may form some idea of the height of these cliffs, when informed +that the king of the feathered race made them his sanctuary. They were +continuous on both sides of the river, but retired, more or less, from it, +according to the extent of the alluvial flats. The river held a serpentine +course down the valley through which it passed, striking the precipices +alternately on each side. + +The soil on the flats was better, and less mixed with sand than it had +been, but the flats were generally covered with reeds, though certainly +not wholly subject to flood at any time. The polygonum still prevailed +upon them in places, and the blue-gum tree alone occupied their outskirts. +From the several elevations we ascended, the country to the N.W. appeared +undulating and well wooded; that to the eastward, seemed to be brushy and +low. Certainly there was a great difference in the country, both to the +eastward and to the westward. We had frequent views of the mountains we +had seen, or, I should have said, of a continuation of them. They bore +nearly west from us at a very great distance all day. + +We fell in with several tribes, but did not see our old friend, although, +from the inquiries we made, it was evident he was well known among them. +It would disgust my readers were I to describe the miserable state of +disease and infirmity to which these tribes were reduced. Leprosy of the +most loathsome description, the most violent cutaneous eruptions, and +glandular affections, absolutely raged through the whole of them; yet we +could not escape from the persecuting examination of our persons that +curiosity prompted them in some measure to insist upon. + +REJOINED BY OUR OLD NATIVE GUIDE. + +The old man, whose information had proved strictly correct, joined us +again on the 4th, and his joy at being received into the boat was +unbounded, as well as the pleasure he expressed at again meeting +Hopkinson. He had been on a long journey, it would appear, for he had not +then reached his tribe. As we approached their haunt, he landed and +preceded us to collect them. We were, of course, more than usually liberal +to so old a friend, and we were really sorry to part with him. + +Soon after leaving his tribe, which occupied the left bank of the river, +and was very weak in point of numbers, we fell in with a very strong tribe +upon the right bank. They numbered 211 in all. We lay off the bank, in +order to escape their importunities; a measure that by no means satisfied +them. The women appeared to be very prolific; but, as a race, these people +are not to be compared with the natives of the mountains, or of the upper +branches of the Murray. + +We passed some beautiful scenery in the course of the day. The river +preserved a direct southerly course, and could not in any place have been +less than 400 yards in breadth. The cliffs still continued, and varied +perpetually in form; at one time presenting a perpendicular wall to the +view, at others, they overhung the stream, in huge fragments. All were +composed of a mass of shells of various kinds; a fact which will call for +further observation and remark. + +DELAYED BY STRONG WINDS. + +Many circumstances at this time tended to confirm our hopes that the sea +could not be very far from us, or that we should not be long in gaining +it. Some sea-gulls flew over our heads, at which Fraser was about to +shoot, had I not prevented him, for I hailed them as the messengers of +glad tidings, and thought they ill deserved such a fate. It blew very hard +from the S.W., during the whole of the day, and we found it extremely +laborious pulling against the heavy and short sea that came rolling up the +broad and open reaches of the Murray at this place. + +Four of the blacks, from the last tribe, followed us, and slept at the +fires; but they were suspicious and timid, and appeared to be very glad +when morning dawned. Our fires were always so much larger than those made +by themselves, that, they fancied, perhaps, we were going to roast them. +Our dogs, likewise, gave them great uneasiness; for although so fond of +the native brute, they feared ours, from their size. We generally tied +them to the boat, therefore, to prevent a recurrence of theft, so that +they were not altogether useless. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + + +Improvement in the aspect of the country--Increase of the river--Strong +westerly gales--Chronometer broken--A healthier tribe of natives-- +Termination of the Murray in a large lake--Its extent and environs-- +Passage across it--Hostile appearance of the natives--Beautiful scenery +--Channel from the lake to the sea at Encounter Bay--Reach the beach-- +Large flocks of water fowl--Curious refraction--State of provisions-- +Embarrassing situation--Inspection of the channel to the ocean--Weak +condition of the men--Difficulties of the return. + +DELIGHTFUL COUNTRY. + +It now appeared that the Murray had taken a permanent southerly course; +indeed, it might strictly be said that it ran away to the south. As we +proceeded down it, the valley expanded to the width of two miles; the +alluvial flats became proportionably larger; and a small lake generally +occupied their centre. They were extensively covered with reeds and grass, +for which reason, notwithstanding that they were little elevated above the +level of the stream, I do not think they are subject to overflow. Parts of +them may be laid under water, but certainly not the whole. The rains at +the head of the Murray, and its tributaries, must be unusually severe to +prolong their effects to this distant region, and the flats bordering it +appear, by successive depositions, to have only just gained a height above +the further influence of the floods. Should this prove to be the case, the +valley may be decidedly laid down as a most desirable spot, whether we +regard the richness of its soil, its rock formation, its locality, or the +extreme facility of water communication along it. It must not, however, be +forgotten or concealed, that the summits of the cliffs by which the valley +is enclosed, have not a corresponding soil. On the contrary, many of the +productions common to the plains of the interior still existed upon them, +and they were decidedly barren; but as we measured the reaches of the +river, the cliffs ceased, and gave place to undulating hills, that were +very different in appearance from the country we had previously noted +down. It would have been impossible for the most tasteful individual to +have laid out pleasure ground to more advantage, than Nature had done in +planting and disposing the various groups of trees along the spine, and +upon the sides of the elevations that confined the river, and bounded the +low ground that intervened between it and their base. Still, however, the +soil upon these elevations was sandy, and coarse, but the large oat-grass +was abundant upon them, which yielded pasture at least as good as that in +the broken country between Underaliga and Morumbidgee. + +We had now gained a distance of at least sixty miles from that angle of +the Murray at which it reaches its extreme west. The general aspect of the +country to our right was beautiful, and several valleys branched away into +the interior upon that side which had a most promising appearance, and +seemed to abound with kangaroos, as the traces of them were numerous, and +the dogs succeeded in killing one, which, to our great mortification, we +could not find. + +While, however, the country to the westward had so much to recommend it, +the hills to our left became extremely bare. It was evident that the right +was the sheltered side of the valley. The few trees on the opposite side +bent over to the N.E., as if under the influence of some prevailing wind. + +ADVERSE GALES. + +We experienced at this time a succession of gales from the S.W., against +which we, on several occasions, found it useless to contend: the waves on +the river being heavy and short; and the boat, driving her prow into them, +sent the spray over us and soon wet us through. Indeed, it is difficult +for the reader to imagine the heavy swell that rolled up the river, which +had increased in breadth to the third of a mile, and in the length of its +reaches to eight or ten. I was satisfied that we were not only navigating +this river at a particularly stormy, perhaps THE stormy, season; but also, +that the influence of the S.W. wind is felt even as far in the interior as +to the supposed Darling; in consequence of the uniform build of the huts, +and the circumstance of their not only facing the N.E., but also being +almost invariably erected under the lee of some bush. + +The weather, under the influence of the wind we experienced, was cool and +pleasant, although the thermometer stood at a medium height of 86 degrees; +but we found it very distressing to pull against the heavy breezes that +swept up the valley, and bent the reeds so as almost to make them kiss the +stream. + +We communicated on the 6th and 7th with several large tribes of natives, +whose manners were on the whole quiet and inoffensive. They distinctly +informed us, that we were fast approaching the sea, and, from what I could +understand, we were nearer to it than the coast line of Encounter Bay made +us. We had placed sticks to ascertain if there was any rise or fall of +tide, but the troubled state of the river prevented our experiments from +being satisfactory. By selecting a place, however, that was sheltered from +the effects of the wind, we ascertained that there was an apparent rise +of about eight inches. + +OBLIGED TO TAKE REPOSE. + +It blew a heavy gale during the whole of the 7th; and we laboured in vain +at the oar. The gusts that swept the bosom of the water, and the swell +they caused, turned the boat from her course, and prevented us from making +an inch of way. The men were quite exhausted, and, as they had conducted +themselves so well, and had been so patient, I felt myself obliged to +grant them every indulgence consistent with our safety. However precarious +our situation, it would have been vain, with our exhausted strength, to +have contended against the elements. We, therefore, pulled in to the left +bank of the river, and pitched our tents on a little rising ground beyond +the reeds that lined it. + +CHRONOMETER BROKEN. + +I had been suffering very much front tooth-ache for the last three or four +days, and this day felt the most violent pain from the wind. I was not, +therefore, sorry to get under even the poor shelter our tents afforded. +M'Leay, observing that I was in considerable pain, undertook to wind up +the chronometer; but, not understanding or knowing the instrument, he +unfortunately broke the spring. I shall not forget the anxiety he +expressed, and the regret he felt on the occasion; nor do I think M'Leay +recovered the shock this unlucky accident gave him for two or three days, +or until the novelty of other scenes drove it from his recollection. + +We landed close to the haunt of a small tribe of natives, who came to us +with the most perfect confidence, and assisted the men in their +occupations. They were cleaner and more healthy than any tribe we had +seen; and were extremely cheerful, although reserved in some respects. +As a mark of more than usual cleanliness, the women had mats of oval +shape, upon which they sat, made, apparently, of rushes. There was a +young girl among them of a most cheerful disposition. She was about +eighteen, was well made, and really pretty. This girl was married to an +elderly man who had broken his leg, which having united in a bent shape, +the limb was almost useless. I really believe the girl thought we could +cure her husband, from her importunate manner to us. I regretted that I +could do nothing for the man, but to show that I was not inattentive to +her entreaties, I gave him a pair of trousers, and desired Fraser to put +them upon him; but the poor fellow cut so awkward an appearance in them, +that his wife became quite distressed, and Fraser was obliged speedily +to disencumber him from them again. + +We could not gain any satisfactory information, as to the termination of +the river, from these people. It was evident that some change was at hand; +but what it was we could not ascertain. + +APPEARANCE OF SOME APPROACHING CHANGE. + +On the morning of the 9th, we left our fair friend and her lame husband, +and proceeded down the river. The wind had moderated, although it still +blew fresh. We ascended every height as we went along, but could not see +any new feature in the country. Our view to the eastward was very +confined; to the westward the interior was low and dark, and was backed in +the distance by lofty ranges, parallel to which we had been running for +some days. The right bank of the valley was beautifully undulated, but the +left was bleak and bare. The valley had a breadth of from three to four +miles, and the flats were more extensive under the former than under the +latter. They were scarcely two feet above the level of the water, and were +densely covered with reeds. As there was no mark upon the reeds to +indicate the height to which the floods rose, I cannot think that these +flats are ever wholly laid under water; if they are, it cannot be to any +depth: at all events a few small drains would effectually prevent +inundation. The soil upon the hills continued to be much mixed with sand, +and the prevailing trees were cypress and box. Among the minor shrubs and +grass, many common to the east coasts were noticed; and although the bold +cliffs had ceased, the basis of the country still continued of the fossil +formation. At a turn of the stream hereabouts, however, a solitary rock of +coarse red granite rose above the waters, and formed an island in its +centre; but only in this one place was it visible. The rock was composed +principally of quartz and feldspar. + +A little below it, we found a large tribe anxiously awaiting our arrival. +They crowded to the margin of the river with great eagerness, and evinced +more surprise at our appearance than any tribe we had seen during the +journey; but we left them very soon, notwithstanding that they importuned +us much to stay. + +After pulling a mile or two, we found a clear horizon before us to the +south. The hills still continued upon our left, but we could not see any +elevation over the expanse of reeds to our right. The river inclined to +the left, and swept the base of the hills that still continued on that +side. I consequently landed once more to survey the country. + +TERMINATION OF THE MURRAY IN A LARGE LAKE. + +I still retained a strong impression on my mind that some change was at +hand, and on this occasion, I was not disappointed; but the view was one +for which I was not altogether prepared. We had, at length, arrived at the +termination of the Murray. Immediately below me was a beautiful lake, +which appeared to be a fitting reservoir for the noble stream that had led +us to it; and which was now ruffled by the breeze that swept over it. +The ranges were more distinctly visible, stretching from south to north, +and were certainly distant forty miles. They had a regular unbroken +outline; declining gradually to the south, but terminating abruptly at a +lofty mountain northerly. I had no doubt on my mind of this being the +Mount Lofty of Captain Flinders; or that the range was that immediately to +the eastward of St. Vincent's Gulf--Since the accident to the chronometer, +we had not made any westing, so that we knew our position as nearly as +possible. Between us and the ranges a beautiful promontory shot into the +lake, being a continuation of the right bank of the Murray. Over this +promontory the waters stretched to the base of the ranges, and formed an +extensive bay. To the N.W. the country was exceedingly low, but distant +peaks were just visible over it. To the S.W. a bold headland showed +itself; beyond which, to the westward, there was a clear and open sea +visible, through a strait formed by this headland and a point projecting +from the opposite shore. To the E. and S.E. the country was low, excepting +the left shore of the lake, which was backed by some minor elevations, +crowned with cypresses. Even while gazing on this fine scene, I could not +but regret that the Murray had thus terminated; for I immediately foresaw +that, in all probability, we should be disappointed in finding any +practicable communication between the lake and the ocean, as it was +evident that the former was not much influenced by tides. The wind had +again increased; it still blew fresh from the S.W. and a heavy sea was +rolling direct into the mouth of the river. I hoped, notwithstanding, that +we should have been enabled to make sail, for which reason we entered the +lake about 2 p.m. The natives had kindled a large fire on a distant point +between us and the further headland, and to gain this point our efforts +were now directed. The waves were, however, too strong, and we were +obliged to make for the eastern shore, until such time as the weather +should moderate. We pitched our tents on a low track of land that +stretched away seemingly for many miles directly behind us to the +eastward. It was of the richest soil, being a black vegetable deposit, +and although now high above the influence, the lake had, it was evident, +once formed a part of its bed. The appearance of the country altogether +encouraged M'Leay and myself to walk out, in order to examine it from some +hills a little to the S.E. of the camp. From them we observed that the +flat extended over about fifty miles, and was bounded by the elevations +that continued easterly from the left bank of the Murray to the north, +and by a line of rising-ground to the south. The whole was lightly wooded, +and covered with grass. The season must have been unusually dry, judging +from the general appearance of the vegetation, and from the circumstance +of the lagoons in the interior being wholly exhausted. + +Thirty-three days had now passed over our heads since we left the depot +upon the Morumbidgee, twenty-six of which had been passed upon the Murray. +We had, at length, arrived at the grand reservoir of those waters whose +course and fate had previously been involved in such obscurity. It +remained for us to ascertain whether the extensive sheet of water upon +whose bosom we had embarked, had any practicable communication with the +ocean, and whether the country in the neighbourhood of the coast +corresponded with that immediately behind our camp, or kept up its sandy +and sterile character to the very verge of the sea. As I have already +said, my hopes on the first of these points were considerably damped, but +I could not help anticipating a favourable change in the latter, since its +features had so entirely changed. + +DETAINED BY THE WIND. + +The greatest difficulty against which we had at present to contend was the +wind; and I dreaded the exertion it would call for, to make head against +it; for the men were so much reduced that I felt convinced they were +inadequate to any violent or prolonged effort. It still blew fresh at +8 p.m., but at that time it began to moderate. It may be imagined that I +listened to its subdued gusts with extreme anxiety. It did not wholly +abate until after 2 a.m., when it gradually declined, and about 3 a light +breeze sprung up from the N. E. + +We had again placed sticks to ascertain with more precision the rise of +tide, and found it to be the same as in the river. In the stillness of the +night too we thought we heard the roaring of the sea, but I was myself +uncertain upon the point, as the wind might have caused the sound. + +From the top of the hill from which we had obtained our first view of the +lake, I observed the waves breaking upon the distant headland, and +enveloping the cliff in spray; so that, independent of the clearness of +the horizon beyond it, I was further led to conclude that there existed a +great expanse of water to the S.W.; and, as that had been the direction +taken by the river, I thought it probable that by steering at once to the +S.W. down the lake, I should hit the outlet. I, consequently, resolved to +gain the southern extremity of the lake, as that at which it was natural +to expect a communication with the ocean would be found. + +GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. + +At 4 we had a moderate breeze, and it promised to strengthen; we lost no +time therefore in embarking, and with a flowing sheet stretched over to +the W.S.W., and ran along the promontory formed by the right bank of the +Murray. We passed close under its extreme point at nine. The hills had +gradually declined, and we found the point to be a flat, elevated about +thirty feet above the lake. It was separated from the promontory by a +small channel that was choked up with reeds, so that it is more than +probable that the point is insulated at certain periods; whilst in its +stratification it resembled the first cliffs I have described that were +passed below the Darling. It is a remarkable fact in the geology of the +Murray, that such should be the case; and that the formation at each +extremity of the great bank or bed of fossils should be the same. +Thus far, the waters of the lake had continued sweet; but on filling a can +when we were abreast of this point, it was found that they were quite +unpalatable, to say the least of them. The transition from fresh to salt +water was almost immediate, and it was fortunate we made the discovery in +sufficient time to prevent our losing ground. But, as it was, we filled +our casks, and stood on, without for a moment altering our course. + +PASSAGE ACROSS THE LAKE--ITS SHALLOWNESS. + +It is difficult to give a just description of our passage across the lake. +The boisterous weather we had had seemed to have blown over. A cool and +refreshing breeze was carrying us on at between four and five knots an +hour, and the heavens above us were without a cloud. It almost appeared as +if nature had resisted us in order to try our perseverance, and that she +had yielded in pity to our efforts. The men, relieved for a time from the +oar, stretched themselves at their length in the boat, and commented on +the scenery around them, or ventured their opinions as to that which was +before them. Up to this moment their conduct had been most exemplary; not +a murmur had escaped from them, and they filled the water-casks with the +utmost cheerfulness, even whilst tasting the disagreeable beverage they +would most probably have to subsist on for the next three or four days. + +As soon as we had well opened the point, we had a full view of the +splendid bay that, commencing at the western most of the central points, +swept in a beautiful curve under the ranges. No land was visible to the +W.N.W. or to the S.S.W.: in both these quarters the lake was as open as +the ocean. It appeared, therefore, that the land intermediate was an +island. To the north the country was extremely low, and as we increased +our distance from it we lost sight of it altogether. At noon we were +nearly abreast of the eastern headland, or in the centre of the strait to +which I have alluded. At this time there was an open sea from W.N.W. to +N. by E. A meridian altitude gave our latitude 35 degrees 25 minutes. +The land to our left was bold and precipitous; that to the right was low +and wooded; and there was evidently a considerable space between the +shores of the lake and the base of the ranges. The country to the eastward +was hidden from us by the line of cliffs, beyond which from E.S.E. to +W.S.W. there was an open sea. We had kept the lead going from the first, +and I was surprised at the extreme shallowness of the lake in every part, +as we never had six feet upon the line. Its bottom was one of black mud, +and weeds of enormous length were floating on its surface, detached by the +late gales, and which, from the shallowness of the lake, got constantly +entangled with our rudder. + +We tried to land on the eastern point, but found the water too shallow, +and were obliged to try the western shore. In passing close under the +head, we observed several natives upon it, who kindled a large fire as +soon as they saw they were noticed, which was answered from every point; +for, in less than ten minutes afterwards, we counted no fewer than +fourteen different fires, the greater number of which were on the side of +the ranges. + +SHORES OF THE LAKE. + +As we were standing across from one shore to the other, our attention was +drawn to a most singular object. It started suddenly up, as above the +waters to the south, and strikingly resembled an isolated castle. Behind +it, a dense column of smoke rose into the sky, and the effect was most +remarkable. On a nearer approach, the phantom disappeared and a clear and +open sea again presented itself to our view. The fact was, that the +refractive power upon the coast had elevated the sand-hillocks above their +true position, since we satisfactorily ascertained that they alone +separated the lake from the ocean, and that they alone could have produced +the semblance we noticed. It is a singular fact, that this very hillock +was the one which Capt. Barker ascended whilst carrying on the survey of +the south coast, and immediately previous to his tragical death. + +It was not without difficulty that we succeeded in landing on the western +shore; but we did, at length, succeed, and prepared our dinners. The shore +was low, but above the reach of all floods; the soil was rich, and +superficially sandy. It was covered with high grasses, and abounded in +kangaroos; within the space of a few yards we found five or six, but they +were immediately lost to us and to the dogs in the luxuriance of the +vegetation amidst which they were feeding. + +As soon as we had finished our meal, we once more embarked, and stood +along the shore to the S.W., but the lake was so shoal, that I was every +moment apprehensive we should ground. I ran across, therefore, to the +south, towards a low flat that had just appeared above the line of the +horizon, in hope that, in sounding, we should have found the channel, but +there either was none, or else it was so narrow that we passed over it +between the heaves of the lead. At this time, the western shore was quite +distinct, and the scenery was beautiful. + +The flat we were approaching was a mud-flat, and, from its appearance, the +tide was certainly at the ebb. We observed some cradles, or wicker frames, +placed far below high water-mark, that were each guarded by two natives, +who threatened us violently as we approached. In running along the land, +the stench from them plainly indicated what they were which these poor +creatures were so anxiously watching. + +We steered a S.W. course, towards some low and wooded hills, passing a +rocky island, and found that we had struck the mouth of a channel running +to the W.S.W. It was about half-a-mile wide, was bounded to the right by +some open flat ground, and to the left by a line of hills of about sixty +or seventy feet in elevation, partly open and partly covered with +beefwood. + +WARLIKE DEMEANOUR OF THE NATIVES. + +Upon the first of these hills, we observed a large body of natives, who +set up the most terrific yells as we approached. They were fully equipped +for battle and, as we neared the shore, came down to meet us with the most +violent threats. I wished much to communicate with them, and, not without +hopes of quieting them, stood right in with the intention of landing. +I observed, however, that if I did so, I should have to protect myself. +I hauled a little off, and endeavoured, by holding up a branch and a +tomahawk, to gain their confidence, but they were not to be won over by +my show of pacification. An elderly man walked close to the water's edge +unarmed, and, evidently, directed the others. He was followed by seven or +eight of the most daring, who crept into the reeds, with their spears +shipped to throw at us. I, therefore, took up my gun to return their +salute. It then appeared that they were perfectly aware of the weapon I +carried, for the moment they saw it, they dashed out of their hiding place +and retreated to the main body; but the old man, after saying something +to them, walked steadily on, and I, on my part, laid my firelock down +again. + +LOVELY EVENING. + +It was now near sunset; and one of the most lovely evenings I had ever +seen. The sun's radiance was yet upon the mountains, but all lower objects +were in shade. The banks of the channel, with the trees and the rocks, +were reflected in the tranquil waters, whose surface was unruffled save by +the thousands of wild fowl that rose before us, and made a noise as of a +multitude clapping hands, in their clumsy efforts to rise from the waters. +Not one of them allowed us to get within shot. + +We proceeded about a mile below the hill on which the natives were posted; +some few still following us with violent threats. We landed, however, on a +flat, bounded all round by the continuation of the hills. It was an +admirable position, for, in the centre of it, we could not be taken by +surprise, and, on the other hand, we gave the natives an opportunity of +communicating with us if they would. The full moon rose as we were forming +the camp, and, notwithstanding our vicinity to so noisy a host, the +silence of death was around us, or the stillness of the night was only +broken by the roar of the ocean, now too near to be mistaken for wind, +or by the silvery and melancholy note of the black swans as they passed +over us, to seek for food, no doubt, among the slimy weeds at the head of +the lake. We had been quite delighted with the beauty of the channel, +which was rather more than half-a-mile in width. Numberless mounds, that +seemed to invite civilised man to erect his dwelling upon them, presented +themselves to our view. The country round them was open, yet ornamentally +wooded, and rocks and trees hung or drooped over the waters. + +EXTENT OF THE LAKE. + +We had in one day gained a position I once feared it would have cost us +infinite labour to have measured. Indeed, had we been obliged to pull +across the lake, unless during a calm, I am convinced the men would have +been wholly exhausted. We had to thank a kind Providence that such was not +the case, since it had extended its mercy to us at so critical a moment. +We had indeed need of all the little strength we had remaining, and could +ill have thrown it away on such an effort as this would have required. +I calculated that we could not have run less than forty-five miles during +the day, a distance that, together with the eight miles we had advanced +the evening previously, would give the length of the lake at fifty-three +miles. + +We had approached to within twelve miles of the ranges, but had not gained +their southern extremity. From the camp, Mount Barker bore nearly north. +The ranges appeared to run north and south to our position, and then to +bend away to the S.S.W., gradually declining to that point, which I +doubted not terminated in Cape Jervis. The natives kept aloof during the +night, nor did the dogs by a single growl intimate that any had ventured +to approach us. The sound of the surf came gratefully to our ears, for it +told us we were near the goal for which we had so anxiously pushed, and we +all of us promised ourselves a view of the boundless ocean on the morrow. + +CHANNEL TO THE SEA--ITS SHALLOWNESS. + +As the morning dawned, we saw that the natives had thrown an out-post of +sixteen men across the channel, who were watching our motions; but none +showed themselves on the hills behind us, or on any part of the south +shore. We embarked as soon as we had breakfasted, A fresh breeze was +blowing from the N.E. which took us rapidly down the channel, and our +prospects appeared to be as cheering as the day, for just as we were about +to push from the shore, a seal rose close to the boat, which we all +regarded as a favourable omen. We were, however, shortly stopped by +shoals; it was in vain that we beat across the channel from one side to +the other; it was a continued shoal, and the deepest water appeared to be +under the left bank. The tide, however, had fallen, and exposed broad +flats, over which it was hopeless, under existing circumstances, to haul +the boat. We again landed on the south side of the channel, patiently to +await the high water. + +M'Leay, myself, and Fraser, ascended the hills, and went to the opposite +side to ascertain the course of the channel, for immediately above us it +turned south round the hills. We there found that we were on a narrow +tongue of land. The channel was immediately below us, and continued to the +E.S.E. as far as we could trace it. The hills we were upon, were the sandy +hills that always bound a coast that is low, and were covered with +banksias, casuarina and the grass-tree. + +To the south of the channel there was a flat, backed by a range of +sand-hummocks, that were covered with low shrubs; and beyond them the sea +was distinctly visible. We could not have been more than two and a half +miles from the beach where we stood. + +Notwithstanding the sandy nature of the soil, the fossil formation again +showed itself, not only on these hills, but also on the rocks that were in +the channel. + +A little before high water we again embarked. A seal had been observed +playing about, and we augured well from such an omen. The blacks had been +watching us from the opposite shore, and as soon as we moved, rose to keep +abreast of us. With all our efforts we could not avoid the shoals. We +walked up to our knees in mud and water, to find the least variation in +the depth of the water so as to facilitate our exertions, but it was to no +purpose. We were ultimately obliged to drag the boat over the flats; there +were some of them a quarter of a mile in breadth, knee-deep in mud; but at +length got her into deep water again. The turn of the channel was now +before us, and we had a good run for about four or five miles. We had +completed the bend, and the channel now stretched to the E.S.E. At about +nine miles from us there was a bright sand-hill visible, near which the +channel seemed to turn again to the south; and I doubted not that it +terminated there. It was to no purpose, however, that we tried to gain it. +Shoals again closed in upon us on every side. We dragged the boat over +several, and at last got amongst quicksands. I, therefore, directed our +efforts to hauling the boat over to the south side of the channel, as that +on which we could most satisfactorily ascertain our position. After great +labour we succeeded, and, as evening had closed in, lost no time in +pitching the tents. + +BEACH OF ENCOUNTER BAY. + +While the men were thus employed, I took Fraser with me, and, accompanied +by M'Leay, crossed the sand-hummocks behind us, and descended to the +sea-shore. I found that we had struck the south coast deep in the bight +of Encounter Bay. We had no time for examination, but returned immediately +to the camp, as I intended to give the men an opportunity to go to the +beach. They accordingly went and bathed, and returned not only highly +delighted at this little act of good nature on my part, but loaded with +cockles, a bed of which they had managed to find among the sand. Clayton +had tied one end of his shirt up, and brought a bag full, and amused +himself with boiling cockles all night long. + +If I had previously any hopes of being enabled ultimately to push the boat +over the flats that were before us, a view of the channel at low water, +convinced me of the impracticability of any further attempt. The water was +so low that every shoal was exposed, and many stretched directly from one +side of the channel to the other; and, but for the treacherous nature of +the sand-banks, it would not have been difficult to have walked over dry +footed to the opposite side of it. The channel stretched away to the +E.S.E., to a distance of seven or eight miles, when it appeared to turn +south under a small sand-hill, upon which the rays of the sun fell, as it +was sinking behind us. + +CURIOUS EFFECT OF REFRACTION. + +There was an innumerable flock of wild-fowl arranged in rows along the +sides of the pools left by the tide, and we were again amused by the +singular effect of the refraction upon them, and the grotesque and +distorted forms they exhibited. Swans, pelicans, ducks, and geese, were +mingled together, and, according to their distance from us, presented +different appearances. Some were exceedingly tall and thin, others were +unnaturally broad. Some appeared reversed, or as if they were standing on +their heads, and the slightest motion, particularly the flapping of their +wings, produced a most ridiculous effect. No doubt, the situation and the +state of the atmosphere were favourable to the effect I have described. +The day had been fine, the evening was beautiful,--but it was the +rarefaction of the air immediately playing on the ground, and not the +haze at sunset that caused what I have noticed. It is distinct from +mirage, although it is difficult to point out the difference. The one, +however, distorts, the other conceals objects, and gives them a false +distance. The one is clear, the other is cloudy. The one raises objects +above their true position, the other does not. The one plays about, the +other is steady; but I cannot hope to give a proper idea either of mirage +or refraction so satisfactorily as I could wish. Many travellers have +dwelt upon their effects, particularly upon those of the former, but few +have attempted to account for them. + +Our situation was one of peculiar excitement and interest. To our right +the thunder of the heavy surf, that almost shook the ground beneath us, +broke with increasing roar upon our ears; to our left the voice of the +natives echoed through the brush, and the size of their fires at the +extremity of the channel, seemed to indicate the alarm our appearance had +occasioned. + +CRITICAL SITUATION OF THE PARTY. + +While the men were enjoying their cockles, a large kettle of which they +had boiled, M'Leay and I were anxiously employed in examining the state of +our provisions, and in ascertaining what still remained. Flour and tea +were the only articles we had left, so that the task was not a difficult +one. It appeared that we had not sufficient of either to last us to +Pondebadgery, at which place we expected to find supplies; and, taking +every thing into consideration, our circumstances were really critical. + +The first view of Encounter Bay had convinced me that no vessel would ever +venture into it at a season when the S.W. winds prevailed. It was +impossible that we could remain upon the coast in expectation of the +relief that I doubted not had been hurried off for us; since +disappointment would have sealed our fate at once. In the deep bight in +which we were, I could not hope that any vessel would approach +sufficiently near to be seen by us. Our only chance of attracting notice +would have been by crossing the Ranges to the Gulf St. Vincent, but the +men had not strength to walk, and I hesitated to divide my party in the +presence of a determined and numerous enemy, who closely watched our +motions. Setting aside the generous feelings that had prompted M'Leay to +participate in every danger with me, and who I am persuaded would have +deeply felt a separation, my anxiety not only on his account, but on +account of the men I might leave in charge of the boat, made me averse to +this measure; the chance of any misfortune to them involving in it the +destruction of our boat and the loss of our provisions. My anxiety of mind +would have rendered me unfit for exertion; yet so desirous was I of +examining the ranges and the country at their base, that I should, had our +passage to the salt water been uninterrupted, have determined on coasting +it homewards, or of steering for Launceston; and most assuredly, with my +present experience, I would rather incur the hazards of so desperate a +step, than contend against all the evils that beset us on out homeward +journey. And the reader may rest assured, I was as much without hopes of +our eventual safety, as I was astonished, at the close of our labours, to +find that they had terminated so happily. + +INSPECTION OF THE CHANNEL FROM THE LAKE TO THE OCEAN. + +Further exertion on the part of the men being out of the question, I +determined to remain no longer on the coast than to enable me to trace the +channel to its actual junction with the sea, and to ascertain the features +of the coast at that important point. I was reluctant to exhaust the +strength of the men in dragging the boat over the numberless flats that +were before us, and made up my mind to walk along the shore until I should +gain the outlet. I at length arranged that M'Leay, I, and Fraser, should +start on this excursion, at the earliest dawn, leaving Harris and +Hopkinson in charge of the camp; for as we were to go towards the position +of the natives, I thought it improbable they would attack the camp without +my being instantly aware of it. + +We had, as I have said, intended starting at the earliest dawn, but the +night was so clear and refreshing, and the moon so bright that we +determined to avail ourselves of both, and accordingly left the tents at +3 a.m. I directed Harris to strike them at 8, and to have every thing in +readiness for our departure at that hour. We then commenced our +excursion, and I led my companions rapidly along the shore of Encounter +Bay, after crossing the sand-hills about a mile below the camp. After a +hasty and distressing walk of about seven miles, we found that the +sand-hills terminated, and a low beach spread before us. The day was just +breaking, and at the distance of a mile from us we saw the sand-hill I +have already had occasion to notice, and at about a quarter of a mile from +its base, we were checked by the channel; which, as I rightly conjectured, +being stopped in its easterly course by some rising ground, the tongue of +land on which the blacks were posted, suddenly turns south, and, striking +this sand-hill, immediately enters the sea; and we noticed, in the bight +under the rising ground, that the natives had lit a chain of small fires. +This was, most probably, a detached party watching our movements, as they +could, from where they were posted, see our camp. + +At the time we arrived at the end of the channel, the tide had turned, and +was again setting in. The entrance appeared to me to be somewhat less than +a quarter of a mile in breadth. Under the sand-hill on the off side, the +water is deep and the current strong. No doubt, at high tide, a part of +the low beach we had traversed is covered. The mouth of the channel is +defended by a double line of breakers, amidst which, it would be +dangerous to venture, except in calm and summer weather; and the line of +foam is unbroken from one end of Encounter Bay to the other. Thus were our +fears of the impracticability and inutility of the channel of +communication between the lake and the ocean confirmed. + +DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS OF THE RETURN. + +I would fain have lingered on my way, to examine, as far as circumstances +would permit, the beautiful country between the lake and the ranges; and +it was with heart-felt sorrow that I yielded to necessity. My men were +indeed very weak from poverty of diet and from great bodily fatigue. +Hopkinson, Mulholland, and Macnamee were miserably reduced. The two +former, especially, had exerted themselves beyond their strength, and +although I am confident they would have obeyed my orders to the last, +I did not feel myself justified, considering the gigantic task we had +before us, to impose additional labour upon them. + +It will be borne in mind that our difficulties were just about to +commence, when those of most other travellers have ceased; and that +instead of being assisted by the stream whose course we had followed, we +had now to contend against the united waters of the eastern ranges, +with diminished strength, and, in some measure, with disappointed +feelings. + +Under the most favourable circumstances, it was improbable that the men +would be enabled to pull for many days longer in succession; since they +had not rested upon their oars for a single day, if I except our passage +across the lake, from the moment when we started from the depot; nor was +it possible for me to buoy them up with the hope even of a momentary +cessation from labour. We had calculated the time to which our supply of +provisions would last under the most favourable circumstances, and it was +only in the event of our pulling up against the current, day after day, +the same distance we had compassed with the current in our favour, that we +could hope they would last us as long as we continued in the Murray. +But in the event of floods, or any unforeseen delay, in was impossible +to calculate at what moment we might be driven to extremity. + +Independent of these casualties, there were other circumstances of peril +to be taken into consideration. As I have already observed, I foresaw +great danger in again running through the natives. I had every reason to +believe that many of the tribes with which we had communicated on +apparently friendly terms, regretted having allowed us to pass unmolested; +nor was I at all satisfied as to the treatment we might receive from them, +when unattended by the envoys who had once or twice controlled their fury. +Our best security, therefore, against the attacks of the natives was +celerity of movement; and the men themselves seemed to be perfectly aware +of the consequences of delay. Our provisions, moreover, being calculated +to last to a certain point only, the slightest accident, the staving-in +of the boat, or the rise of the river, would inevitably be attended with +calamity. To think of reducing our rations of only three quarters of a +pound of flour per diem, was out of the question, or to hope that the men, +with less sustenance than that, would perform the work necessary to ensure +their safety, would have been unreasonable. It was better that our +provisions should hold out to a place from which we might abandon the boat +with some prospect of reaching by an effort a stock station, or the plain +on which Robert Harris was to await our return, than that they should be +consumed before the half of our homeward journey should be accomplished. +Delay, therefore, under our circumstances, would have been imprudent +and unjustifiable. + + +PATIENCE OF THE MEN--RE-ENTER THE MURRAY. +On the other hand, it was sufficiently evident to me, that the men were +too much exhausted to perform the task that was before them without +assistance, and that it would be necessary both for M'Leay and myself, +to take our share of labour at the oars. The cheerfulness and satisfaction +that my young friend evinced at the opportunity that was thus afforded him +of making himself useful, and of relieving those under him from some +portion of their toil, at the same time that they increased my sincere +esteem for him, were nothing more than what I expected from one who had +endeavoured by every means in his power to contribute to the success of +that enterprise upon which he had embarked. But although I have said thus +much of the exhausted condition of the men,--and ere these pages are +concluded my readers will feel satisfied as to the truth of my +statement--I would by no means be understood to say that they flagged for +a moment, or that a single murmur escaped them. No reluctance was visible, +no complaint was heard, but there was that in their aspect and appearance +which they could not hide, and which I could not mistake. My object in +dwelling so long upon this subject has been to point out our situation and +our feelings when we re-entered the Murray. The only circumstance that +appeared to be in our favour was the prevalence of the south-west wind, +by which I hoped we should be assisted in running up the first broad +reaches of that river. I could not but acknowledge the bounty of that +Providence, which had favoured us in our passage across the lake, and I +was led to hope that its merciful superintendance would protect us from +evil, and would silently direct us where human foresight and prudence +failed. We re-entered the river on the 13th under as fair prospects as +we would have desired. The gale which had blown with such violence in the +morning gradually abated, and a steady breeze enabled us to pass our first +encampment by availing ourselves of it as long as day light continued. +Both the valley and the river showed to advantage as we approached them, +and the scenery upon our left (the proper right bank of the Murray) +was really beautiful. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + + +Valley of the Murray--Its character and capabilities--Laborious progress +up the river--Accident to the boat--Perilous collision with the natives +--Turbid current of the Rufus--Passage of the Rapids--Assisted by the +natives--Dangerous intercourse with them--Re-enter the Morumbidgee-- +Verdant condition of its banks--Nocturnal encounter with the natives-- +Interesting manifestation of feeling in one family--Reach the spot where +the party had embarked on the river--Men begin to fail entirely-- +Determine to send two men forward for relief--Their return--Excursion on +horseback--Reach Pondebadgery Plain, and meet the supplies from the +colony--Cannibalism of the natives--Return to Sydney--Concluding remarks. + +VALLEY OF THE MURRAY. + +The valley of the Murray, at its entrance, cannot be less than four miles +in breadth. The river does not occupy the centre but inclines to either +side, according to its windings, and thus the flats are of greater or less +extent, according to the distance of the river from the base of the hills. +It is to be remarked, that the bottom of the valley is extremely level, +and extensively covered with reeds. From the latter circumstance, one +would be led to infer that these flats are subject to overflow, and no +doubt can exist as to the fact of their being, at least partially, if not +wholly, under water at times. A country in a state of nature is, however, +so different from one in a state of cultivation, that it is hazardous to +give an opinion as to its practical availableness, if I may use such a +term. I should, undoubtedly, say the marshes of the Macquarie were +frequently covered with water, and that they were wholly unfit for any one +purpose whatever. It is evident from the marks of the reeds upon the +banks, that the flood covers them occasionally to the depth of three feet, +and the reeds are so densely embodied and so close to the river side that +the natives cannot walk along it. The reeds are the broad flag-reed +(arundo phragmatis), and grow on a stiff earthy loam, without any +accompanying vegetation; indeed, they form so solid a mass that the sun +cannot penetrate to the ground to nourish vegetation. On the other hand, +the valley of the Murray, though covered with reeds in most places, is not +so in all. There is no mark upon the reeds by which to judge as to the +height of inundation, neither are they of the same kind as those which +cover the marshes of the Macquarie. They are the species of round reed of +which the South-sea islanders make their arrows, and stand sufficiently +open, not only to allow of a passage through, but for the abundant growth +of grass among them. Still, I have no doubt that parts of the valley are +subject to flood; but, as I have already remarked, I do not know whether +these parts are either deeply or frequently covered. Rain must fall +simultaneously in the S.E. angle of the island in the inter-tropical +regions, and at the heads of all the tributaries of the main stream, ere +its effects can be felt in the lower parts of the Murray. If the valley of +the Murray is not subject to flood, it has only recently gained a height +above the influence of the river, and still retains all the character of +flooded land. In either case, however, it contains land that is of the +very richest kind--soil that is the pure accumulation of vegetable matter, +and is as black as ebony. If its hundreds of thousands of acres were +practically available, I should not hesitate to pronounce it one of the +richest spots of equal extent on earth, and highly favoured in other +respects. How far it is available remains to be proved; and an opinion +upon either side would be hazardous, although that of its liability to +flood would, most probably, be nearest to truth. It is, however, certain +that any part of the valley would require much labour before it could be +brought under cultivation, and that even its most available spots would +require almost as much trouble to clear them as the forest tract, for +nothing is more difficult to destroy than reeds. Breaking the sod would, +naturally, raise the level of the ground, and lateral drains would, most +probably, carry off all floods, but then the latter, at least, is the +operation of an advanced stage of husbandry only. I would, however, +observe that there are many parts of the valley decidedly above the reach +of flood. I have, in the above observations, been particularly alluding to +the lowest and broadest portions of it. I trust I shall be understood as +not wishing to over-rate this discovery on the one hand, or on the other, +to include its whole extent in one sweeping clause of condemnation. + +On the 14th, the wind still continued to blow fresh from the N.W. +It moderated at noon, and assisted us beyond measure. We passed our first +encampment, but did not see any natives. + +CORDIALITY OF THE NATIVES. + +On the 15th, the wind was variable at daylight, and a dense fog was on the +river. As the sun rose, it was dissipated and a light breeze sprung up +from W.S.W. We ran up the stream with a free sheet for six hours, when we +stopped for a short time to get the kettle boiled. Four natives joined us, +but with the exception of the lowest tribe upon the right bank, we had not +seen any number. We were extremely liberal to this tribe, in consequence +of the satisfaction they evinced at our return. We had alarmed them much +on our passage down the river by firing at a snake that was swimming +across it. We, at first, attempted to kill it with the boat-hook, but the +animal dived at our approach, and appeared again at a considerable +distance. Another such dive would have ensured his escape, but a shot +effectually checked him, and as the natives evinced considerable alarm, we +held him up, to show them the object of our proceedings. On our return, +they seemed to have forgotten their fright, and received us with every +demonstration of joy. The different receptions we met with from different +tribes are difficult to be accounted for. + +The country appeared to rise before us, and looked more hilly to the N.W. +than I had supposed it to be. Several fine valleys branched off from the +main one to the westward, and, however barren the heights that confined +them were, I am inclined to think, that the distant interior is fertile. +The marks of kangaroos were numerous, and the absence of the natives would +indicate that they have other and better means of subsisting in the back +country than what the river affords. + +In the evening, we again ran on for two hours and a half, and reached the +first of the cliffs. + +On the 16th, we were again fortunate in the wind, and pressed up the river +as long as day-light continued. At the termination of our journey, we +found ourselves a day's journey in advance. This inspirited the men, and +they began to forget the labours they had gone through, as well as those +that were before them. + +On the 17th, we again commenced pulling, the wind being at north, and +contrary. It did not, however, remain in that quarter long, but backed at +noon to the S.W., so that we were enabled to make a good day's journey, +and rather gained than lost ground. + +REMARKABLE CLIFF--GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. + +Having left the undulating hills, at the mouth of the valley behind us, +we passed cliff after cliff of fossil formation: they had a uniform +appearance as to the substance of which they were composed, and varied +but little in colour. Having already examined them, we thought it +unnecessary to give them any further special attention, since it was +improbable we should find anything new. In turning an angle of the river, +however, a broad reach stretched away before us. An alluvial flat extended +to our left, and a high line of cliffs, that differed in no visible +respect from those we had already passed, rose over the opposite side of +the river. The cliffs faced the W.N.W., and as the sun declined, his beams +struck full upon them. As we shot past, we were quite dazzled with the +burst of light that flashed upon us, and which gave to the whole face of +the cliff the appearance of a splendid mirror. The effect was of course +momentary; for as soon as we had passed the angle of refraction, there was +nothing unusual in its appearance. On a nearer approach, however, it +appeared again as if studded with stars. We had already determined on +examining it more closely, and this second peculiarity still further +excited our curiosity. On landing, we found the whole cliff to be a mass +of selenite, in which the various shells already noticed were plentifully +embedded, as in ice. The features of the cliff differed from any we had +previously remarked. Large masses, or blocks of square or oblong shape, +had fallen to its base, and its surface was hard, whereas the face of the +majority of the other cliffs was soft from the effect of the atmosphere; +and the rock was entirely free from every other substance, excepting the +shells of which it was composed. We of course collected some good +specimens, although they added very considerably to the weight of our +cargo. + +The morning of the 18th was calm and cloudless. The wind, of which there +was but little, came from the north, and was as usual warm. We availed +ourselves of a favourable spot to haul our boat on shore under one of the +cliffs upon the proper left of the river, and cleaned her well both +inside and out. + +LABORIOUS ASCENT OF THE BOAT. + +The breezes that had so much assisted as from the lake upwards, had now +lost their influence, or failed to reach to the distance we had gained. +Calms succeeded them, and obliged us to labour continually at the oars. +We lost ground fast, and it was astonishing to remark how soon the men's +spirits drooped again under their first efforts. They fancied the boat +pulled heavily, and that her bottom was foul; but such was not the case. +The current was not so strong as when we passed down, since the river had +evidently fallen more than a foot, and was so shallow in several places, +that we were obliged to haul the boat over them. On these occasions we +were necessarily obliged to get out of her into the water, and had +afterwards to sit still and to allow the sun to dry our clothes upon us. +The unemployed consequently envied those at the oars, as they sat +shivering in their dripping clothes. I was aware that it was more from +imagination than reality, that the men fancied the boat was unusually +heavy, but I hesitated not in humouring them, and rather entered into +their ideas than otherwise, and endeavoured to persuade them that she +pulled the lighter for the cleaning we gave her. + +A tribe of natives joined us, and we had the additional trouble of +guarding our stores. They were, however, very quiet, and as we had broken +up our casks, on leaving the coast, we were enabled to be liberal in our +presents of iron hoop, which they eagerly received. We calculated that we +should reach the principal junction in about fifteen days from this place. + +NATIVE BURIAL-PLACE. + +The natives left us to pursue our solitary journey as soon as the boat was +reloaded. Not one of them had the curiosity to follow us, nor did they +appear to think it necessary that we should be attended by envoys. We +stopped for the night upon the left bank; and close to a burial-ground +that differed from any I had ever seen. It must have been used many years, +from the number of bones that were found in the bank, but there were no +other indications of such a place either by mounds or by marks on the +trees. The fact, therefore, is a singular one. I have thought that some +battle might have been fought near the place, but I can hardly think one +of their battles could have been so destructive. + +IMPEDED BY SHOALS. + +We had now only to make the best of our journey, rising at dawn, and +pulling to seven and often to nine o'clock. I allowed the men an hour from +half-past eleven to half-past twelve, to take their bread and water. This +was our only fare, if I except an occasional wild duck; but these birds +were extremely difficult to kill, and it cost us so much time, that we +seldom endeavoured to procure any. Our dogs had been of no great use, and +were now too weak to have run after anything if they had seen either +kangaroos or emus; and for the fish, the men loathed them, and were either +too indifferent or too much fatigued to set the night-lines. Shoals +frequently impeded us as we proceeded up the river, and we passed some +rapids that called for our whole strength to stem. A light wind assisted +us on two or three of these occasions, and I never failed hoisting the +sail at every fitting opportunity. In some parts the river was extremely +shallow, and the sand-banks of amazing size; and the annoyance of dragging +the boat over these occasional bars, was very great. We passed several +tribes of blacks on the 19th and 20th; but did not stop to communicate +with them. + +I believe I have already mentioned that shortly after we first entered the +Murray, flocks of a new paroquet passed over our heads, apparently +emigrating to the N.W. They always kept too high to be fired at, but on +our return, hereabouts, we succeeded in killing one. It made a good +addition to our scanty stock of subjects of natural history. It is +impossible to conceive how few of the feathered tribe frequent these +distant and lonely regions. The common white cockatoo is the most +numerous, and there are also a few pigeons; but other birds descend only +for water, and are soon again upon the wing. Our botanical specimens were +as scanty as our zoological, indeed the expedition may, as regards these +two particulars, almost be said to have been unproductive. + +COMPILATION OF THE CHART. + +When we came down the river, I thought it advisable to lay its course down +as precisely as circumstances would permit: for for this purpose I had a +large compass always before me, and a sheet of foolscap paper. As soon as +we passed an angle of the river, I took the bearings of the reach before +us, and as we proceeded down it, marked off the description of country, +and any remarkable feature. The consequence was, that I laid down every +bend of the Murray River, from the Morumbidgee downwards. Its creeks, its +tributaries, its flats, its valleys, and its cliffs, and, as far as I +possibly could do, the nature of the distant interior. This chart was, +of course, erroneous in many particulars, since I had to judge the length +of the reaches of the river, and the extent of its angles, but I corrected +it on the scale of the miles of latitude we made during the day, which +brought out an approximate truth at all events. The hurried nature of our +journey would not allow me to do more; and it will be remembered that my +observations were all siderial, by reason that the sextant would not +embrace the sun in his almost vertical position at noon. Admitting, +however, the imperfection of this chart, it was of inconceivable value and +comfort to us on our return, for, by a reference to it, we discovered our +place upon the river, and our distance from our several encampments. +And we should often have stopped short of them had not the chart shown us +that a few reaches more would bring us to the desired spots. It cheered +the men to know where they were, and gave them conversation. To myself it +was very satisfactory, as it enabled me to prepare for our meetings with +the larger tribes, and to steer clear of obstacles in the more difficult +navigation of some parts of the stream. + +On the 21st, by dint of great labour we reached our camp of the 2nd +February, from which it will be remembered the Murray took up a southerly +course, and from which we likewise obtained a first view of the coast +ranges. The journey to the sea and back again, had consequently occupied +us twenty days. From this point we turned our boat's head homewards; we +made it, therefore, a fixed position among the stages into which we +divided our journey. Our attention was now directed to the junction of the +principal tributary, which we hoped to reach in twelve days, and +anticipated a close to our labours on the Murray in eight days more from +that stage to the Morumbidgee. + +CURRENT OF THE MURRAY. + +The current in the Murray from the lake, to within a short distance of +this singular turn in it, is weak, since its bed is almost on a level with +the lake. The channel, which, at the termination, is somewhat more than +the third of a mile across, gradually diminishes in breadth, as the +interior is gained, but is nowhere under 300 yards; while its depth +averages from eighteen to thirty feet, within a foot of the very bank. +The river might, therefore, be navigated by boats of considerable burden, +if the lake admitted of the same facility; but I am decidedly of opinion, +that the latter is generally shallow, and that it will, in the course of +years, be filled up by depositions. It is not, however, an estuary in any +sense of the word, since no part of it is exposed at low water, excepting +the flats in the channel, and the flat between the lake and the sea. + +ACCIDENT TO THE BOAT. + +On the 23rd, we stove the boat in for the first time. I had all along +anticipated such an accident, from the difficulty of avoiding obstacles, +in consequence of the turbid state of the river. Fortunately the boat +struck a rotten log. The piece remained in her side, and prevented her +filling, which she must, otherwise, inevitably have done, ere we could +have reached the shore. As it was, however, we escaped with a little +damage to the lower bags of flour only. She was hauled up on a sand bank, +and Clayton repaired her in less than two hours, when we reloaded her +and pursued our journey. It was impossible to have been more cautious than +we were, for I was satisfied as to the fate that would have overtaken the +whole of us in the event of our losing the boat, and was proportionably +vigilant. + +MOLESTED BY THE NATIVES. + +At half-past five we came to an island, which looked so inviting, and so +quiet, that I determined to land and sleep upon it. We consequently, ran +the boat into a little recess, or bay, and pitched the tents; and I +anticipated a respite from the presence of any natives, as did the men, +who were rejoiced at my having taken up so snug a berth. It happened, +however, that a little after sunset, a flight of the new paroquets +perched in the lofty trees that grew on the island, to roost; when we +immediately commenced the work of death, and succeeded in killing eight or +ten. The reports of our guns were heard by some natives up the river, and +several came over to us. Although I was annoyed at their having discovered +our retreat, they were too few to be troublesome. During the night, +however, they were joined by fresh numbers, amounting in all to about +eighty, and they were so clamorous, that it was impossible to sleep. + +NATIVES BECOME TROUBLESOME. + +As the morning broke, Hopkinson came to inform me that it was in vain that +the guard endeavoured to prevent them from handling every thing, and from +closing in round our camp. I went out, and from what I saw I thought it +advisable to double the sentries. M'Leay, who was really tired, being +unable to close his eyes amid such a din, got up in ill-humour, and went +to see into the cause, and to check it if he could. This, however, was +impossible. One man was particularly forward and insolent, at whom M'Leay, +rather imprudently, threw a piece of dirt. The savage returned the +compliment with as much good will as it had been given, and appeared quite +prepared to act on the offensive. At this critical moment my servant came +to the tent in which I was washing myself, and stated his fears that we +should soon come to blows, as the natives showed every disposition to +resist us. On learning what had passed between M'Leay and the savage, +I pretended to be equally angry with both, and with some difficulty forced +the greater part of the blacks away from the tents. I then directed the +men to gather together all the minor articles in the first instance, and +then to strike the tents; and, in order to check the natives, I drew a +line round the camp, over which I intimated to them they should not pass. +Observing, I suppose, that we were on our guard, and that I, whom they +well knew to be the chief, was really angry, they crept away one by one, +until the island was almost deserted by them. Why they did not attack us, +I know not, for they had certainly every disposition to do so, and had +their shorter weapons with them, which, in so confined a space as that on +which we were, would have been more fatal than their spears + +They left us, however; and a flight of red-crested cockatoos happening to +settle on a plain near the river, I crossed in the boat in order to shoot +one. The plain was upon the proper left bank of the Murray. The natives +had passed over to the right. As the one channel was too shallow for the +boat, when we again pursued our journey we were obliged to pull round to +the left side of the island. A little above it the river makes a bend to +the left, and the angle at this bend was occupied by a large shoal, +one point of which rested on the upper part of the island, and the other +touched the proper right bank of the river. Thus a narrow channel, +(not broader indeed than was necessary for the play of our oars,) alone +remained for us to pass up against a strong current. On turning round the +lower part of the island, we observed that the natives occupied the whole +extent of the shoal, and speckled it over like skirmishers. Many of them +had their spears, and their attention was evidently directed to us.--As we +neared the shoal, the most forward of them pressed close to the edge of +the deep water, so much so that our oars struck their legs. Still this did +not induce them to retire. I kept my eye on an elderly man who stood one +of the most forward, and who motioned to us several times to stop, and at +length threw the weapon he carried at the boat. I immediately jumped up +and pointed my gun at him to his great apparent alarm. Whether the natives +hoped to intimidate us by a show of numbers, or what immediate object they +had in view, it is difficult to say; though it was most probably to seize +a fitting opportunity to attack us. Seeing, I suppose, that we were not to +be checked, they crossed from the shoal to the proper right bank of the +river, and disappeared among the reeds that lined it. + +TREACHERY OF THE NATIVES. + +Shortly after this, eight of the women, whom we had not before noticed, +came down to the water side, and gave us the most pressing invitation to +land. Indeed they played their part uncommonly well, and tried for some +time to allure us by the most unequivocal manifestations of love. +Hopkinson however who always had his eyes about him, observed the spears +of the men among the reeds. They kept abreast of us as we pulled up the +stream, and, no doubt, were anticipating our inability to resist the +temptations they had thrown in our way. I was really provoked at their +barefaced treachery, and should most undoubtedly have attacked them, had +they not precipitately retreated on being warned by the women that I was +arming my men, which I had only now done upon seeing such strong +manifestations of danger. M'Leay set the example of coolness on this +occasion; and I had some doubts whether I was justified in allowing the +natives to escape with impunity, considering that if they had wounded any +one of us the most melancholy and fatal results would have ensued. + +We did not see anything more of the blacks during the rest of the day, +but the repeated indications of hostility we perceived as we approached +the Darling, made me apprehensive as to the reception we should meet from +its numerous population; and I was sorry to observe that the men +anticipated danger in passing that promising junction. + +Having left the sea breezes behind us, the weather had become oppressive; +and as the current was stronger, and rapids more numerous, our labour was +proportionably increased. We perspired to an astonishing degree, and gave +up our oars after our turn at them, with shirts and clothes as wet as if +we had been in the water. Indeed Mulholland and Hopkinson, who worked +hard, poured a considerable quantity of perspiration from their shoes +after their task. The evil of this was that we were always chilled after +rowing, and, of course, suffered more than we should otherwise have done. + +RE-PASS THE LINDESAY. + +On the 25th we passed the last of the cliffs composing the great fossil +bed through which the Murray flows, and entered that low country already +described as being immediately above it. On a more attentive examination +of the distant interior, my opinion as to its flooded origin was +confirmed, more especially in reference to the country to the S.E. On the +30th we passed the mouth of the Lindesay, and from the summit of the sand +hills to the north of the Murray overlooked the flat country, through +which I conclude it must run, from the line of fires we observed amid the +trees, and most probably upon its banks. + +We did not fall in with the natives in such numbers as when we passed down +to the coast: still they were in sufficient bodies to be troublesome. +It would, however, appear that the tribes do not generally frequent the +river. They must have a better country back from it, and most probably +linger amongst the lagoons and creeks where food is more abundant. The +fact is evident from the want of huts upon the banks of the Murray, and +the narrowness of the paths along its margin. + +RE-PASSED THE RUFUS. + +We experienced the most oppressive heat about this time. Calms generally +prevailed, and about 3 p.m. the sun's rays fell upon us with intense +effect. The waters of the Murray continued extremely muddy, a circumstance +we discovered to be owing to the turbid current of the Rufus, which we +passed on the 1st of March. It is, really, singular whence this little +stream originates. It will be remembered that I concluded it must have +been swollen by rains when we first saw it; yet, after an absence of more +than three weeks we found it discharging its waters as muddy as ever into +the main stream; and that, too, in such quantities as to discolour its +waters to the very lake. The reader will have some idea of the force of +the current in both, when I assure him that for nearly fifty yards below +the mouth of the Rufus, the waters of the Murray preserve their +transparency, and the line between them and the turbid waters of its +tributary was as distinctly marked as if drawn by a pencil. Indeed, +the higher we advanced, the more did we feel the strength of the current, +against which we had to pull. + +DIFFICULTIES AT THE RAPIDS. + +A little below the Lindesay, a rapid occurs. It was with the utmost +difficulty that we stemmed it with the four oars upon the boat, and the +exertion of our whole strength. We remained, at one time, perfectly +stationary, the force we employed and that of the current being equal. +We at length ran up the stream obliquely; but it was evident the men were +not adequate to such exertion for any length of time. We pulled that day +for eleven successive hours, in order to avoid a tribe of natives who +followed us. Hopkinson and Fraser fell asleep at their oars, and even the +heavy Clayton appeared to labour. + +We again occupied our camp under the first remarkable cliffs of the +Murray, a description of which has been given in page 128 of this work. +[GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATION.] Their summit, as I have already remarked forms a +table land of some elevation. From it the distant interior to the S.S.E. +appears very depressed; that to the north undulates more. In neither +quarter, however, does any bright foliage meet the eye, to tell that a +better soil is under it; but a dark and gloomy vegetation occupies both +the near and distant ground, in proof that the sandy sterile tracts, +succeeding the river deposits, stretch far away without a change. + +A little above our camp of the 28th of January, we fell in with a large +tribe of natives, whose anxiety to detain us was remarkable. The wind, +however, which, from the time we lost the sea breezes, had hung to the +S.E., had changed to the S.W., and we were eagerly availing ourselves of +it. It will not he supposed we stopped even for a moment. In truth we +pressed on with great success, and did not land to sleep until nine +o'clock. As long as the wind blew from the S.W., the days were cool, and +the sky overcast even so much so as to threaten rain. + +The least circumstance, in our critical situation, naturally raised my +apprehensions, and I feared the river would be swollen in the event of +any heavy rains in the hilly country; I hoped, however, we should gain the +Morumbidgee before such a calamity should happen to us, and it became +my object to press for that river without delay. + +OBSTACLES TO THE NAVIGATION--DANGEROUS RAPIDS. + +Although we had met with frequent rapids in our progress upwards, they had +not been of a serious kind, nor such as would affect the navigation of the +river. The first direct obstacle of this kind occurs a little above a +small tributary that falls into the Murray from the north, between the +Rufus and the cliffs we have alluded to. At this place a reef of coarse +grit contracts the channel of the river. No force we could have exerted +with the oars would have taken us up this rapid; but we accomplished the +task easily by means of a rope which we hauled upon, on the same principle +that barges are dragged by horses along the canals. + +As we neared the junction of the two main streams, the country, on both +sides of the river, became low, and its general appearance confirmed the +opinion I have already given as to its flooded origin. The clouds that +obscured the sky, and had threatened to burst for some time, at length +gave way, and we experienced two or three days of heavy rain. In the midst +of it we passed the second stage of our journey, and found the spot lately +so crowded with inhabitants totally deserted. A little above it we +surprised a small tribe in a temporary shelter; but neither our offers nor +presents could prevail on any of them to expose themselves to the torrent +that was falling. They sat shivering in their bark huts in evident +astonishment at our indifference. We threw them some trifling presents and +were glad to proceed unattended by any of them. + +PERILOUS ASCENT OF THE RAPIDS. + +It will he remembered that in passing down the river, the boat was placed +in some danger in descending a rapid before we reached the junction of the +Murray with the stream supposed by me to be the Darling. We were now +gradually approaching the rapid, nor did I well know how we should +surmount such an obstacle. Strength to pull up it we had not, and I feared +our ropes would not be long enough to reach to the shore over some of the +rocks, since it descended in minor declivities to a considerable distance +below the principal rapid, in the centre of which the boat had struck. +We reached the commencement of these rapids on the 6th, and ascended the +first by means of ropes, which were hauled upon by three of the men from +the bank; and, as the day was pretty far advanced, we stopped a little +above it, that we might attempt the principal rapid before we should be +exhausted by previous exertion. It was fortunate that we took such a +precaution. The morning of the 7th proved extremely dark, and much rain +fell. We commenced our journey in the midst of it, and soon gained the +tail of the rapid. Our attempt to pull up it completely failed. The boat, +as soon as she entered the ripple, spun round like a toy, and away we went +with the stream. As I had anticipated, our ropes were too short; and it +only remained for us to get into the water, and haul the boat up by main +force. We managed pretty well at first, and drew her alongside a rock to +rest a little. We then recommenced our efforts, and had got into the +middle of the channel. We were up to our armpits in the water, and only +kept our position by means of rocks beside us. The rain was falling, as if +we were in a tropical shower, and the force of the current was such, that +if we had relaxed for an instant, we should have lost all the ground we +had gained. Just at this moment, however, without our being aware of their +approach, a large tribe of natives, with their spears, lined the bank, +and took us most completely by surprise. At no time during this anxious +journey were we ever so completely in their power, or in so defenceless a +situation. It rained so hard, that our firelocks would have been of no +use, and had they attacked us, we must necessarily have been slaughtered +without committing the least execution upon them. Nothing, therefore, +remained for us but to continue our exertions. It required only one +strong effort to get the boat into still water for a time, but that effort +was beyond our strength, and we stood in the stream, powerless and +exhausted. + +ASSISTED BY THE NATIVES. + +The natives, in the meanwhile, resting on their spears, watched us with +earnest attention. One of them, who was sitting close to the water, at +length called to us, and we immediately recognised the deep voice of him +to whose singular interference we were indebted for our escape on the +23rd of January. I desired Hopkinson to swim over to him, and to explain +that we wanted assistance. This was given without hesitation; and we at +length got under the lea of the rock, which I have already described as +being in the centre of the river. The natives launched their bark canoes, +the only frail means they possess of crossing the rivers with their +children. These canoes are of the simplest construction and rudest +materials, being formed of an oblong piece of bark, the ends of which are +stuffed with clay, so as to render them impervious to the water. With +several of these they now paddled round us with the greatest care, making +their spears, about ten feet in length,(which they use at once as poles +and paddles,) bend nearly double in the water. We had still the most +difficult part of the rapid to ascend, where the rush of water was the +strongest, and where the decline of the bed almost amounted to a fall. +Here the blacks could be of no use to us. No man could stem the current, +supposing it to have been shallow at the place, but it was on the contrary +extremely deep. Remaining myself in the boat, I directed all the men to +land, after we had crossed the stream, upon a large rock that formed the +left buttress as it were to this sluice, and, fastening the rope to the +mast instead of her head, they pulled upon it. The unexpected rapidity +with which the boat shot up the passage astonished me, and filled the +natives with wonder, who testified their admiration of so dextrous a +manoeuvre, by a loud shout. + +It will, no doubt, have struck the reader as something very remarkable, +that the same influential savage to whom we had already been indebted, +should have been present on this occasion, and at a moment when we so much +needed his assistance. Having surmounted our difficulties, we took leave +of this remarkable man, and pursued our journey up the river. + +It may be imagined we did not proceed very far; the fact was, we only +pushed forward to get rid of the natives, for, however pacific, they were +always troublesome, and we were seldom fitted for a trial of temper after +the labours of the day were concluded. The men had various occupations +in which, when the natives were present, they were constantly interrupted, +and whenever the larger tribes slept near us, the utmost vigilance was +necessary on the part of the night-guard, which was regularly mounted as +soon as the tents were pitched. We had had little else than our flour to +subsist on. Hopkinson and Harris endeavoured to supply M'Leay and myself +with a wild fowl occasionally, but for themselves, and the other men, +nothing could be procured to render their meal more palatable. + +GOOD CONDUCT OF THE MEN. + +I have omitted to mention one remarkable trait of the good disposition of +all the men while on the coast. Our sugar had held out to that point; but +it appeared, when we examined the stores, that six pounds alone remained +in the cask. This the men positively refused to touch. They said that, +divided, it would benefit nobody; that they hoped M'Leay and I would use +it, that it would last us for some time, and that they were better able to +submit to privations than we were. The feeling did them infinite credit, +and the circumstance is not forgotten by me. The little supply the +kindness of our men left to us was, however, soon exhausted, and poor +M'Leay preferred pure water to the bitter draught that remained. I have +been some times unable to refrain from smiling, as I watched the distorted +countenances of my humble companions while drinking their tea and eating +their damper. + +The ducks and swans, seen in such myriads on the lake, seldom appeared on +the river, in the first stages of our journey homewards. About the time of +which I am writing, however, a few swans occasionally flew over our heads +at night, and their silvery note was musically sweet. + +From the 10th to the 15th, nothing of moment occurred: we pulled regularly +from day-light to dark, not less to avoid the natives than to shorten our +journey. Yet, notwithstanding that we moved at an hour when the natives +seldom stir, we were rarely without a party of them, who followed us in +spite of our efforts to tire them out. + +MOLESTED BY NATIVES. + +On the 15th, we had about 150 at our camp. Many of them were extremely +noisy, and the whole of them very restless. They lay down close to the +tents, or around our fire. I entertained some suspicion of them, and when +they were apparently asleep, I watched them narrowly. Macnamee was walking +up and down with his firelock, and every time he turned his back, one of +the natives rose gently up and poised his spear at him, and as soon as +he thought Macnamee was about to trim, he dropped as quietly into his +place. When I say the native got up, I do not mean that he stood up, but +that he raised himself sufficiently for the purpose he had in view. His +spear would not, therefore, have gone with much force, but I determined +it should not quit his hand, for had I observed any actual attempt to +throw it, I should unquestionably have shot him dead upon the spot. +The whole of the natives were awake, and it surprised me they did not +attempt to plunder us. They rose with the earliest dawn, and crowded round +the tents without any hesitation. We, consequently, thought it prudent to +start as soon as we had breakfasted. + +FRASER IN DANGER. + +We had all of us got into the boat, when Fraser remembered he had left his +powder-horn on shore. In getting out to fetch it, he had to push through +the natives. On his return, when his back was towards them, several +natives lifted their spears together, and I was so apprehensive they +would have transfixed him, that I called out before I seized my gun; on +which they lowered their weapons and ran away. The disposition to commit +personal violence was evident from these repeated acts of treachery; and +we should doubtless have suffered from it on some occasion or other, had +we not been constantly on the alert. + +We had been drawing nearer the Morumbidgee every day. This was the last +tribe we saw on the Murray; and the following afternoon, to our great joy, +we quitted it and turned our boat into the gloomy and narrow channel of +its tributary. Our feelings were almost as strong when we re-entered it, +as they had been when we were launched from it into that river, on whose +waters we had continued for upwards of fifty-five days; during which +period, including the sweeps and bends it made, we could not have +travelled less than 1500 miles. + +Our provisions were now running very short; we had, however, "broken the +neck of our journey," as the men said, and we looked anxiously to gaining +the depot; for we were not without hopes that Robert Harris would have +pushed forward to it with his supplies. We were quite puzzled on entering +the Morumbidgee, how to navigate its diminutive bends and its encumbered +channel. I thought poles would have been more convenient than oars; we +therefore stopped at an earlier hour than usual to cut some. Calling to +mind the robbery practised on us shortly after we left the depot, my mind +became uneasy as to Robert Harris's safety, since I thought it probable, +from the sulky disposition of the natives who had visited us there, that +he might have been attacked. Thus, when my apprehensions on our own +account had partly ceased, my fears became excited with regard to him and +his party. + +RE-ENTER THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +The country, to a considerable distance from the junction on either side +the Morumbidgee, is not subject to inundation. Wherever we landed upon its +banks, we found the calistemma in full flower, and in the richest +profusion. There was, also, an abundance of grass, where before there had +been no signs of vegetation, and those spots which we had condemned as +barren were now clothed with a green and luxuriant carpet. So difficult is +it to judge of a country on a partial and hurried survey, and so +differently does it appear at different periods. I was rejoiced to find +that the rains had not swollen the river, for I was apprehensive that +heavy falls had taken place in the mountains, and was unprepared for so +much good fortune. + +FEAST ON A SWAN. + +The poles we cut were of no great use to us, and we soon laid them aside, +and took to our oars. Fortune seemed to favour us exceedingly. The men +rallied, and we succeeded in killing a good fat swan, that served as a +feast for all. I imagine the absence of mud and weeds of every kind in +the Murray, prevents this bird from frequenting its waters. + +On the 18th, we found ourselves entering the reedy country, through which +we had passed with such doubt and anxiety. Every object elicited some +remark from the men, and I was sorry to find they reckoned with certainty +on seeing Harris at the depot, as I knew they would be proportionally +depressed in spirits if disappointed. However, I promised Clayton a good +repast as soon as we should see him. + +LOSE ONE OF OUR DOGS. + +I had walked out with M'Leay a short distance from the river, and had +taken the dogs. They followed us to the camp on our return to it, but the +moment they saw us enter the tent, they went off to hunt by themselves. +About 10 p.m., one of them, Bob, came to the fire, and appeared very +uneasy; he remained, for a short time, and then went away. In about an +hour, he returned, and after exhibiting the same restlessness, again +withdrew. He returned the third time before morning dawned, but returned +alone. The men on the watch were very stupid not to have followed him, +for, no doubt, he went to his companion, to whom, most likely, some +accident had happened. I tried to make him show, but could not succeed, +and, after a long search, reluctantly pursued our journey, leaving poor +Sailor to his fate. This was the only misfortune that befell us, and we +each of us felt the loss of an animal which had participated in all our +dangers and privations. I more especially regretted the circumstance for +the sake of the gentleman who gave him to me, and, on account of his +superior size and activity. + +ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES. + +With the loss of poor Sailor, our misfortunes re-commmenced. I anticipated +some trouble hereabouts, for, having succeeded in their hardihood once, +I knew the natives would again attempt to rob us, and that we should have +some difficulty in keeping them off. As soon as they found out that we +were in the river, they came to us, but left us at sunset. This was on the +21st. At nightfall, I desired the watch to keep a good look out, and +M'Leay and I went to lie down. We had chosen an elevated bank for our +position, and immediately opposite to us there was a small space covered +with reeds, under blue-gum trees. About 11, Hopkinson came to the tent to +say, that he was sure the blacks were approaching through the reeds. +M'Leay and I got up, and, standing on the bank, listened attentively. +All we heard was the bark of a native dog apparently, but this was, in +fact, a deception on the part of the blacks. We made no noise, in +consequence of which they gradually approached, and two or three crept +behind the trunk of a tree that had fallen. As I thought they were near +enough, George M'Leay, by my desire, fired a charge of small shot at them. +They instantly made a precipitate retreat; but, in order the more +effectually to alarm them, Hopkinson fired a ball into the reeds, which we +distinctly heard cutting its way through them. All was quiet until about +three o'clock, when a poor wretch who, most probably, had thrown himself +on the ground when the shots were fired, at length mustered courage to get +up and effect his escape. + +In the morning, the tribe kept aloof, but endeavoured, by the most earnest +entreaties, and most pitiable howling, to gain our favour; but I +threatened to shoot any that approached, and they consequently kept at a +respectful distance, dogging us from tree to tree. It appeared, therefore, +that they were determined to keep us in view, no doubt, with the intention +of trying what they could do by a second attempt. As they went along, +their numbers increased, and towards evening, they amounted to a strong +tribe. Still they did not venture near us, and only now and then showed +themselves. Our situation at this moment would have been much more awkward +in the event of attack, than when we were in the open channel of the +Murray; because we were quite at the mercy of the natives if they had +closed upon us, and, being directly under the banks, should have received +every spear, while it would have been easy for them to have kept out of +sight in assailing us. + +APPARENT OBSTRUCTION OF THE CHANNEL. + +It was near sunset, the men were tired, and I was looking out for a +convenient place at which to rest, intending to punish these natives if +they provoked me, or annoyed the men. We had not seen any of them for some +time, when Hopkinson, who was standing in the bow of the boat, informed me +that they had thrown boughs across the river to prevent our passage. +I was exceedingly indignant at this, and pushed on, intending to force the +barrier. On our nearer approach, a solitary black was observed standing +close to the river, and abreast of the impediment which I imagined they +had raised to our further progress. I threatened to shoot this man, and +pointed to the branches that stretched right across the stream. The poor +fellow uttered not a word, but, putting his hand behind him, pulled out a +tomahawk from his belt, and held it towards me, by way of claiming our +acquaintance; and any anger was soon entirely appeased by discovering that +the natives had been merely setting a net across the river which these +branches supported. We, consequently, hung back, until they had drawn it, +and then passed on. + +MANOEUVRES OF THE NATIVES TO ROB THE BOAT AT NIGHT. + +The black to whom I had spoken so roughly, cut across a bight of the +river, and walking down to the side of the water with a branch in his +hand, in mark of confidence, presented me with a fishing net. We were +highly pleased at the frank conduct of this black, and a convenient place +offering itself, we landed and pitched our tents. Our friend, who was +about forty, brought his two wives, and a young man, to us: and at length +the other blacks mustered courage to approach; but those who had followed +us from the last camp, kept on the other side of the river. On pretence of +being different families, they separated into small bodies, and formed a +regular cordon round our camp. We foresaw that this was a manoeuvre, but, +in hopes that if I forgave the past they would desist from further +attempts, M'Leay took great pains in conciliating them, and treated them +with great kindness. We gave each family some fire and same presents, and +walked together to them by turns, to show that we had equal confidence in +all. Our friend had posted himself immediately behind our tents, at twenty +yards distance, with his little family, and kept altogether aloof from the +other natives. Having made our round of visits, and examined the various +modes the women had of netting, M'Leay and I went into our tent. + +It happened, fortunately, that my servant, Harris, was the first for +sentry. I told him to keep a watchful eye on the natives, and to call me +if any thing unusual occurred. We had again chosen a lofty bank for our +position; behind us there was a small plain, of about a quarter of a mile +in breadth, backed by a wood. I was almost asleep, when my servant came to +inform me, that the blacks had, with one accord, made a precipitate +retreat, and that not one of them was to be seen at the fires. I impressed +the necessity of attention upon him, and he again went to his post. +shortly after this, he returned: "Master," said he, "the natives are +coming." I jumped up, and, taking my gun, followed him, leaving my friend +George fast asleep. I would not disturb him, until necessity required, for +he had ever shown himself so devoted to duty as to deserve every +consideration. Harris led me a little way from the tents, and then +stopping, and pointing down the river, said, "There, sir, don't you see +them?" "Not I, indeed, Harris," I replied, "where do you mean? are you +sure you see them?" "Positive, sir," said he; "stoop and you will see +them." I did so, and saw a black mass in an opening. Convinced that I saw +them, I desired Harris to follow me, but not to fire unless I should give +the word. The rascals would not stand our charge, however, but retreated +as we advanced towards them. We then returned to the tents, and, +commending my servant for his vigilance, I once more threw myself on my +bed. I had scarcely lain down five minutes, when Harris called out, +"The blacks are close to me, sir; shall I fire at them?" "How far are +they?" I asked. "Within ten yards, sir." "Then fire," said I; and +immediately he did so. M'Leay and I jumped up to his assistance. "Well, +Harris," said I, "did you kill your man?" (he is a remarkably good shot.) +"No, sir," said he, "I thought you would repent it, so I fired between the +two." "Where were they, man?" said I. "Close to the boat, sir; and when +they heard me, they swam into the river, and dived as soon as I fired +between them." This account was verified by one of them puffing as he rose +below us, over whose head I fired a shot. Where the other got to I could +not tell. This watchfulness, on our part, however, prevented any further +attempts during the night. + +I was much pleased at the coolness of my servant, as well as his +consideration; and relieving him from his post, desired Hopkinson to take +it. I have no doubt that the approach of the natives, in the first +instance, was made with a view to draw us off from the camp, while some +others might rob the boat. If so, it was a good manoeuvre, and might have +succeeded. + +NATIVES DESERT THEIR WEAPONS--INGENUOUS CONDUCT OF A NATIVE. + +In the morning, we found the natives had left all their ponderous spears +at their fires, which were broken up and burnt. We were surprised to find +that our friend had left every thing in like manner behind him--his +spears, his nets, and his tomahawk; but as he had kept so wholly aloof +from the other blacks, I thought it highly improbable that he had joined +them, and the men were of opinion that he had retreated across the plain +into the wood. On looking in that direction we observed some smoke rising +among the trees at a little distance from the outskirts of the plain, and +under an impression that I should find the native at the fire with his +family, I took his spears and tomahawk, and walked across the plain, +unattended into the wood. I had not entered it more than fifty yards when +I saw a group of four natives, sitting round a small fire. One of them, +as I approached, rose up and met me, and in him I recognised the man for +whom I was seeking. When near enough, I stuck the spears upright into the +ground. The poor man stood thunderstruck; he spoke not, he moved not, +neither did he raise his eyes from the ground. I had kept the tomahawk out +of his sight, but I now produced and offered it to him. He gave a short +exclamation as his eyes caught sight of it, but he remained otherwise +silent before me, and refused to grasp the tomahawk, which accordingly +fell to the ground. I had evidently excited the man's feelings, but it is +difficult to say how he was affected. His manner indicated shame and +surprise, and the sequel will prove that both these feelings must have +possessed him. While we were thus standing together, his two wives came +up, to whom, after pointing to the spears and tomahawk, he said something, +without, however, looking at me; and they both instantly burst into tears +and wept aloud. I was really embarrassed during so unexpected a scene, +and to break it, invited the native to the camp, but I motioned with my +hand, as I had not my gun with me, that I would shoot any other of the +blacks who followed me. He distinctly understood my meaning, and intimated +as distinctly to me that they should not follow us; nor did they. We were +never again molested by them. + +I left him then, and, returning to the camp, told M'Leay my adventure, +with which he was highly delighted. My object is this procedure was to +convince the natives, generally, that we came not among them to injure or +to molest them, as well as to impress them with an idea of our superior +intelligence; and I am led to indulge the hope that I succeeded. Certain +it is, that an act of justice or of lenity has frequently, if well timed, +more weight than the utmost stretch of severity. With savages, more +particularly, to exhibit any fear, distrust, or irresolution, will +inevitably prove injurious. + +But although these adventures were happily not attended with bloodshed, +they harassed the men much; and our camp for near a week was more like an +outpost picquet than any thing else. This, however, terminated all +attempts on the part of the natives. From henceforth none of them followed +us on our route. + +BREACH THE DEPOT. + +At noon, I stopped about a mile short of the depot to take sights. After +dinner we pulled on, the men looking earnestly out for their comrades whom +they had left there, but none appeared. My little arbour, in which I had +written my letters, was destroyed, and the bank on which out tents had +stood was wholly deserted. We landed, however, and it was a satisfaction +to me to see the homeward track of the drays. The men were sadly +disappointed, and poor Clayton, who had anticipated a plentiful meal, was +completely chop fallen. M'Leay and I comforted them daily with the hopes +of meeting the drays, which I did not think improbable. + +Thus, it will appear, that we regained the place from which we started in +seventy-seven days, during which, we could not have pulled less than 2000 +miles. It is not for me, however, to make any comment, either on the +dangers to which we were occasionally exposed, or the toil and privations +we continually experienced in the course of this expedition. My duty is, +simply to give a plain narrative of facts, which I have done with +fidelity, and with as much accuracy as circumstances would permit. Had we +found Robert Harris at the depot, I should have considered it unnecessary +to trespass longer on the patient reader, but as our return to that post +did not relieve us from our difficulties, it remains for me to carry on +the narrative of our proceedings to the time when we reached the upper +branches of the Morumbidgee. + +DISAPPOINTED OF SUPPLIES. + +The hopes that had buoyed up the spirits of the men, ceased to operate as +soon as they were discovered to have been ill founded. The most gloomy +ideas took possession of their minds, and they fancied that we had been +neglected, and that Harris had remained in Sydney. It was to no purpose +that I explained to them that my instructions did not bind Harris to come +beyond Pondebadgery, and that I was confident he was then encamped upon +that plain. + +We had found the intricate navigation of the Morumbidgee infinitely more +distressing than the hard pulling up the open reaches of the Murray, for +we were obliged to haul the boat up between numberless trunks of trees, +an operation that exhausted the men much more than rowing. The river had +fallen below its former level, and rocks and logs were now exposed above +the water, over many of which the boat's keel must have grazed, as we +passed down with the current. I really shuddered frequently, at seeing +these complicated dangers, and I was at a loss to conceive how we could +have escaped them. The planks of our boat were so thin that if she had +struck forcibly against any one branch of the hundreds she must have +grazed, she would inevitably have been rent asunder from stem to stern. + +COMPLETE EXHAUSTION OF THE MEN--ONE LOSES HIS SENSES. + +The day after we passed the depot, on our return, we began to experience +the effects of the rains that had fallen in the mountains. The Morumbidgee +rose upon us six feet in one night, and poured along its turbid waters +with proportionate violence. For seventeen days we pulled against them +with determined perseverance, but human efforts, under privations such as +ours, tend to weaken themselves, and thus it was that the men began to +exhibit the effects of severe and unremitting toil. Our daily journeys +were short, and the head we made against the stream but trifling. The men +lost the proper and muscular jerk with which they once made the waters +foam and the oars bend. Their whole bodies swung with an awkward and +laboured motion. Their arms appeared to be nerveless; their faces became +haggard, their persons emaciated, their spirits wholly sunk; nature was so +completely overcome, that from mere exhaustion they frequently fell asleep +during their painful and almost ceaseless exertions. It grieved me to the +heart to see them in such a state at the close of so perilous a service, +and I began to reproach Robert Harris that he did not move down the river +to meet us; but, in fact, he was not to blame. I became captious, and +found fault where there was no occasion, and lost the equilibrium of my +temper in contemplating the condition of my companions. No murmur, +however, escaped them, nor did a complaint reach me, that was intended to +indicate that they had done all they could do. I frequently heard them in +their tent, when they thought I had dropped asleep, complaining of severe +pains and of great exhaustion. "I must tell the captain, tomorrow," some +of them would say, "that I can pull no more." To-marrow came, and they +pulled on, as if reluctant to yield to circumstances. Macnamee at length +lost his senses. We first observed this from his incoherent conversation, +but eventually from manner. He related the most extraordinary tales, and +fidgeted about eternally while in the boat. I felt it necessary, +therefore, to relieve him from the oars. + +Amidst these distresses, M'Leay preserved his good humour, and endeavoured +to lighten the task, and to cheer the men as much as possible. His +presence at this time was a source of great comfort to me. The uniform +kindness with which he had treated his companions, gave him an influence +over them now, and it was exerted with the happiest effect. + +DESPATCH TWO MEN TO PONDEBADGERY. + +On the 8th and 9th of April we had heavy rain, but there was no respite +for us. Our provisions were nearly consumed, and would have been wholly +exhausted, if we had not been so fortunate as to kill several swans. On +the 11th, we gained our camp opposite to Hamilton's Plains, after a day of +severe exertion. Our tents were pitched upon the old ground, and the marks +of our cattle were around us. In the evening, the men went out with their +guns, and M'Leay and I walked to the rear of the camp, to consult +undisturbed as to the moat prudent measures to be adopted, under our +embarrassing circumstances. The men were completely sunk. We were still +between eighty and ninety miles from Pondebadgery, in a direct line, and +nearly treble that distance by water. The task was greater than we could +perform, and our provisions were insufficient. In this extremity I thought +it best to save the men the mortification of yielding, by abandoning the +boat; and on further consideration, I determined on sending Hopkinson and +Mulholland, whose devotion, intelligence, and indefatigable spirits, +I well knew, forward to the plain. + +The joy this intimation spread was universal, Both Hopkinson and +Mulholland readily undertook the journey, and I, accordingly, prepared +orders for them to start by the earliest dawn. It was not without a +feeling of sorrow that I witnessed the departure of these two men, to +encounter a fatiguing march. I had no fears as to their gaining the plain, +if their reduced state would permit them. On the other hand, I hoped they +would fall in with our old friend the black, or that they would meet the +drays; and I could not but admire the spirit and energy they both +displayed upon the occasion. Their behaviour throughout had been such as +to awaken in my breast a feeling of the highest approbation. Their +conduct, indeed, exceeded all praise, nor did they hesitate one moment +when I called upon them to undertake this last trying duty, after such +continued exertion. I am sure the reader will forgive me for bringing +under his notice the generous efforts of these two men; by me it can never +be forgotten. + +ABANDON AND BURN THE BOAT. + +Six days had passed since their departure; we remaining encamped. M'Leay +and myself had made some short excursions, but without any result worthy +of notice. A group of sand-hills rose in the midst of the alluvial +deposits, about a quarter of a mile from the tents, that were covered with +coarse grasses and banksias. We shot several intertropical birds feeding +in the latter, and sucking the honey from their flowers. I had, in the +mean time, directed Clayton to make some plant cases of the upper planks +of the boat, and then to set fire to her, for she was wholly +unserviceable, and I felt a reluctance to leave her like a neglected log +on the water. The last ounce of flour had been served out to the men, and +the whole of it was consumed on the sixth day from that on which we had +abandoned the boat. I had calculated on seeing Hopkinson again in eight +days, but as the morrow would see us without food, I thought, as the men +had had a little rest it would be better to advance towards relief than to +await its arrival. + +MEN RETURN WITH SUPPLIES. + +On the evening of the 18th, therefore, we buried our specimens and other +stores, intending to break up the camp in the morning. A singular bird, +which invariably passed it at an hour after sunset, and which, from its +heavy flight, appeared to be of unusual size so attracted my notice, that +in the evening M'Leay and I crossed the river, in hope to get a shot at +it. We had, however, hardly landed on the other side, when a loud shout +called us back to witness the return of our comrades. + +They were both of them in a state that beggars description. Their knees +and ankles were dreadfully swollen, and their limbs so painful, that as +soon as they arrived in the camp they sunk under their efforts, but they +met us with smiling countenances, and expressed their satisfaction at +having arrived so seasonably to our relief. They had, as I had foreseen, +found Robert Harris on the plain, which they reached on the evening of the +third day. They had started early the next morning on their return with +such supplies as they thought we might immediately want. Poor Macnamee +had in a great measure recovered, but for same days he was sullen and +silent: sight of the drays gave him uncommon satisfaction. Clayton gorged +himself; but M'Leay, myself and Fraser could not at first relish the meat +that was placed before us. + +It was determined to give the bullocks a day of rest, and I availed myself +of the serviceable state of the horses to visit some hills about eighteen +miles to the northward. I was anxious to gain a view of the distant +country to the N.W., and to ascertain the geological character of the +hills themselves. M'Leay, Fraser, and myself left the camp early in the +morning of the 19th, on our way to them. Crossing the sand hills, we +likewise passed a creek, and, from the flooded or alluvial tracks, got on +an elevated sandy country, in which we found a beautiful grevillia. From +this we passed a barren ridge of quartz-formation, terminating in open box +forest. From it we descended and traversed a plain that must, at some +periods, be almost impassable. It was covered with acacia pendula, and the +soil was a red earth, bare of vegetation in many places. At its extremity +we came to some stony ridges, and, descending their northern side, gained +the base of the hills. They were more extensive than they appeared to be +from our camp; and were about six hundred feet in height, and composed of +a conglomerate rock. They were extremely barren, nor did the aspect of the +country seem to indicate a favourable change. I was enabled, however, to +connect my line of route with the more distant hills between the +Morumbidgee and the Lachlan. We returned to the camp at midnight. + +MEET WITH THE DRAYS. + +On the following morning we left our station before Hamilton's Plains. +We reached Pondebadgery on the 28th, and found Robert Harris, with a +plentiful supply of provisions. He had everything extremely regular, and +had been anxiously expecting our return, of which he at length wholly +despaired. He had been at the plain two months, and intended to have moved +down the river immediately, had we not made our appearance when we did. + +I had sent M'Leay forward on the 20th with letters to the Governor, whose +anxiety was great on our account. I remained for a fortnight on the plain +to restore the men, but Hopkinson had so much over-exerted himself that it +was with difficulty he crawled along. + +In my despatches to the Governor, from the depot, I had suggested the +policy of distributing some blankets and other presents to the natives on +the Morumbidgee, in order to reward those who had been useful to our +party, and in the hope of proving beneficial to settlers in that distant +part of the colony. His Excellency was kind enough to accede to my +request, and I found ample means for these purposes among the stores that +Harris brought from Sydney. + +We left Pondebadgery Plain early on the 5th of May, and reached Guise's +Station late in the afternoon. We gained Yass Plains on the 12th, having +struck through the mountain passes by a direct line, instead of returning +by our old route near Underaliga. As the party was crossing the plains I +rode to see Mr. O'Brien, but did not find him at home. + +INSTANCE OF CANNIBALISM. + +While waiting at his hut, one of the stockmen pointed out two blacks to me +at a little distance from us. The one was standing, the other sitting. +"That fellow, sir," said he, "who is sitting down, killed his infant child +last night by knocking its head against a stone, after which he threw it +on the fire and then devoured it." I was quite horror struck, and could +scarcely believe such a story. I therefore went up to the man and +questioned him as to the fact, as well as I could. He did not attempt to +deny it, but slunk away in evident consciousness. I then questioned the +other that remained, whose excuse for his friend was that the child was +sick and would never have grown up, adding he himself did not PELTER (eat) +any of it. + +Many of my readers may probably doubt this horrid occurrence having taken +place, as I have not mentioned any corroborating circumstances. I am +myself, however, as firmly persuaded of the truth of what I have stated as +if I had seen the savage commit the act; for I talked to his companion who +did see him, and who described to me the manner in which he killed the +child. Be it as it may, the very mention of such a thing among these +people goes to prove that they are capable of such an enormity. + +We left Yass Plains on the 14th of May, and reached Sydney by easy stages +on the 25th, after an absence of nearly six months. + + +* * * * * + + +CONCLUDING REMARKS. + + +To most of my readers, the foregoing narrative will appear little else +than a succession of adventures. Whilst the expedition was toiling down +the rivers, no rich country opened upon the view to reward or to cheer the +perseverance of those who composed it, and when, at length, the land of +promise lay smiling before them, their strength and their means were too +much exhausted to allow of their commencing an examination, of the result +of which there could be but little doubt. The expedition returned to +Sydney, without any splendid discovery to gild its proceedings; and the +labours and dangers it had encountered were considered as nothing more +than ordinary occurrences. If I myself had entertained hopes that my +researches would have benefited the colony, I was wholly disappointed. +There is a barren tract of country lying to the westward of the Blue +Mountains that will ever divide the eastern coast from the more central +parts of Australia, as completely as if seas actually rolled between them. + +GEOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. + +In a geographical point of view, however, nothing could have been more +satisfactory, excepting an absolute knowledge of the country to the +northward between the Murray and the Darling, than the results of the +expedition. I have in its proper place stated, as fairly as I could, my +reasons for supposing the principal junction (which I consequently left +without a name) to be the Darling of my former journey, as well as the +various arguments that bore against such a conclusion. + +Of course, where there is so much room for doubt, opinions will be +various. I shall merely review the subject, in order to connect subsequent +events with my previous observations, and to give the reader a full idea +of that which struck me to be the case on a close and anxious +investigation of the country from mountain to lowland. I returned from the +Macquarie with doubts on my mind as to the ultimate direction to which the +waters of the Darling river might ultimately flow; for, with regard to +every other point, the question was, I considered, wholly decided. But, +with regard to that singular stream, I was, from the little knowledge I +had obtained, puzzled as to its actual course; and I thought it as likely +that it might turn into the heart of the interior, as that it would make +to the south. It had not, however, escaped my notice, that the northern +rivers turned more abruptly southward (after gaining a certain distance +from the base of the ranges) than the more southern streams: near the +junction of the Castlereagh with the Darling especially, the number of +large creeks joining the first river from the north, led me to conclude +that there was at that particular spot a rapid fall of country to the +south. + +The first thing that strengthened in my mind this half-formed opinion, was +the fall of the Lachlan into the Morumbidgee. I had been told that +Australia was a basin; that an unbroken range of hills lined its coasts, +the internal rivers of which fell into its centre, and contributed to the +formation of an inland sea; I was not therefore prepared to find a break +in the chain--a gap as it were for the escape of these waters to the +coast. + +Subsequently to our entrance into the Murray, the remarkable efforts of +that river to maintain a southerly course were observed even by the men, +and the singular runs it made to the south, when unchecked by high lands, +clearly evinced its natural tendency to flow in that direction. + +Had we found ourselves at an elevation above the bed of the Darling when +we reached the junction of the principal tributary with the Murray, I +should still have had doubts on my mind as to the identity of that +tributary with the first-mentioned river; but considering the trifling +elevation of the Darling above the sea, and that the junction was still +less elevated above it, I cannot bring myself to believe that the former +alters its course. It is not, however, on this simple geographical +principle that I have built my conclusions; other corroborative +circumstances have tended also to confirm in my mind the opinion I have +already given, not only of the comparatively recent appearance above +the ocean of the level country over which I had passed, but that the true +dip of the interior is from north to south. + +In support of the first of these conclusions, it would appear that a +current of water must have swept the vast accumulation of shells, forming +the great fossil bank through which the Murray passes from the northern +extremity of the continent, to deposit them where they are; and it would +further appear from the gradual rise of this bed, on an inclined plain +from N.N.E. to S.S.W., that it must in the first instance, have swept +along the base of the ranges, but ultimately turned into the above +direction by the convexity of the mountains at the S.E. angle of the +coast. From the circumstance, moreover, of the summit of the fossil +formation being in places covered with oyster shells, the fact of the +whole mass having been under water is indisputable, and leads us naturally +to the conclusion that the depressed interior beyond it must have been +under water at the same time. + +It was proved by barometrical admeasurement, that the cataract of the +Macquarie was 680 feet above the level of the sea, and, in like manner, +it was found that the depot of Mr. Oxley, on the Lachlan, was only 500, +there being a still greater fall of country beyond these two points. +The maximum height of the fossil bank was 300 feet; and if we suppose a +line to be drawn from its top to the eastward, that line would pass over +the marshes of the two rivers, and would cut them at a point below which +they both gradually diminish. Hence I am brought to conclude that in +former times the sea washed the western base of the dividing ranges, at or +near the two points whose respective elevations I have given; and that +when the mass of land now lying waste and unproductive, became exposed, +the rivers, which until then had pursued a regular course to the ocean, +having no channel beyond their original termination, overflowed the almost +level country into which they now fall; or, filling some extensive +concavity, have contributed, by successive depositions, to the formation +of those marshes of which so much has been said. I regret extremely, that +my defective vision prevents me giving a slight sketch to elucidate +whet I fear I have, in words, perhaps, failed in making sufficiently +intelligible. + +GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. + +Now, as we know not by what means the changes that have taken place on the +earth's surface have been effected, and can only reason on them from +analogy, it is to be feared we shall never arrive at any clear +demonstration of the truth of our surmises with regard to geographical +changes, whether extensive or local, since the causes which produced them +will necessarily have ceased to operate. We cannot refer to the dates when +they took place, as we may do in regard to the eruptions of a volcano, +or the appearance or disappearance of an island. Such events are of minor +importance. Those mighty changes to which I would be understood to allude, +can hardly be laid to the account of chemical agency. We can easily +comprehend how subterranean fires will occasionally burst forth, and can +thus satisfactorily account for earthquake or volcano; but it is not to +any clashing of properties, or to any visible causes, that the changes of +which I speak can be attributed. They appear rather as the consequences of +direct agency, of an invisible power, not as the occasional and fretful +workings of nature herself. The marks of that awful catastrophe which so +nearly extinguished the human race, are every day becoming more and more +visible as geological research proceeds. Thus, in the limestone caves at +Wellington Valley, the remains of fossils and exuviae, show that their +depths were penetrated by the same searching element that poured into the +caverns of Kirkdale and other places. They are as gleams of sunshine +falling upon the pages of that sublime and splendid volume, in which the +history of the deluge is alone to be found; as if the Almighty intended +that His word should stand single and unsupported before mankind: and when +we consider that such corroborative testimonies of his wrath, as those I +have noticed, were in all probability wholly unknown to those who wrote +that sacred book, the discovery of the remains of a past world, must +strike those under whose knowledge it may fall with the truth of that +awful event, which language has vainly endeavoured to describe and +painters to represent. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + + +Environs of the lake Alexandrina--Appointment of Capt. Barker to make a +further survey of the coast near Encounter Bay--Narrative of his +proceedings--Mount Lofty, Mount Barker, and beautiful country adjacent-- +Australian salmon--Survey of the coast--Outlet of lake to the sea-- +Circumstances that led to the slaughter of Capt. Barker by the natives-- +His character--Features of this part of the country and capabilities of +its coasts--Its adaptation for colonization--Suggestions for the +furtherance of future Expeditions. + +ENVIRONS OF THE LAKE ALEXANDRINA. + +The foregoing narrative will have given the reader some idea of the state +in which the last expedition reached the bottom of that extensive and +magnificent basin which receives the waters of the Murray. The men were, +indeed, so exhausted, in strength, and their provisions so much reduced by +the time they gained the coast, that I doubted much, whether either would +hold out to such place as we might hope for relief. Yet, reduced as the +whole of us were from previous exertion, beset as our homeward path was by +difficulty and danger, and involved as our eventual safety was in +obscurity and doubt, I could not but deplore the necessity that obliged me +to re-cross the Lake Alexandrina (as I had named it in honour of the heir +apparent to the British crown), and to relinquish the examination of its +western shores. We were borne over its ruffled and agitated surface with +such rapidity, that I had scarcely time to view it as we passed; but, +cursory as my glance was, I could not but think I was leaving behind me +the fullest reward of our toil, in a country that would ultimately render +our discoveries valuable, and benefit the colony for whose interests we +were engaged. Hurried, I would repeat, as my view of it was, my eye never +fell on a country of more promising aspect, or of more favourable +position, than that which occupies the space between the lake and the +ranges of St. Vincent's Gulf, and, continuing northerly from Mount Barker, +stretches away, without any visible boundary. + +It appeared to me that, unless nature had deviated from her usual laws, +this tract of country could not but be fertile, situated as it was to +receive the mountain deposits on the one hand, and those of the lake upon +the other. + +FURTHER EXAMINATION OF THE COAST. + +In my report to the Colonial Government, however, I did not feel myself +justified in stating, to their full extent, opinions that were founded on +probability and conjecture alone. But, although I was guarded in this +particular, I strongly recommended a further examination of the coast, +from the most eastern point of Encounter Bay, to the head St. Vincent's +Gulf, to ascertain if any other than the known channel existed among the +sand-hills of the former, or if, as I had every reason to hope from the +great extent of water to the N.W., there was a practicable communication +with the lake from the other; and I ventured to predict, that a closer +survey of the interjacent country, would be attended with the most +beneficial results; nor have I a doubt that the promontory of Cape Jervis +would ere this have been settled, had Captain Barker lived to complete his +official reports. + +CAPT. BARKER'S SURVEY. + +The governor, General Darling, whose multifarious duties might well have +excused him from paying attention to distant objects, hesitated not a +moment when he thought the interests of the colony, whose welfare he so +zealously promoted, appeared to be concerned; and he determined to avail +himself of the services of Captain Collet Barker, of the 39th regiment, +who was about to be recalled from King George's Sound, in order to satisfy +himself as to the correctness of my views. + +Captain Barker had not long before been removed from Port Raffles, on the +northern coast, where he had had much intercourse with the natives, and +had frequently trusted himself wholly in their hands. It was not, however, +merely on account of his conciliating manners, and knowledge of the temper +and habits of the natives, that he was particularly fitted for the duty +upon which it was the governor's pleasure to employ him. He was, in +addition, a man of great energy of character, and of much and various +information. + +Orders having reached Sydney, directing the establishment belonging to +New South Wales to be withdrawn, prior to the occupation of King George's +Sound by the government of Western Australia, the ISABELLA schooner was +sent to receive the troops and prisoners on board; and Captain Barker was +directed, as soon as he should have handed over the settlement to Captain +Stirling, to proceed to Cape Jervis from which point it was thought he +could best carry on a survey not only of the coast but also of the +interior. + +This excellent and zealous officer sailed from King George's Sound, on the +10th of April, 1831, and arrived off Cape Jervis on the 13th. He was +attended by Doctor Davies, one of the assistant surgeons of his regiment, +and by Mr. Kent, of the Commissariat. It is to the latter gentleman that +the public are indebted for the greater part of the following details; +he having attended Captain Barker closely during the whole of this short +but disastrous excursion, and made notes as copious as they are +interesting. At the time the ISABELLA arrived off Cape Jervis, the weather +was clear and favourable. Captain Barker consequently stood into +St. Vincent's Gulf, keeping, as near as practicable, to the eastern shore, +in soundings that varied from six to ten fathoms, upon sand and mud. +His immediate object was to ascertain if there was any communication with +the lake Alexandrina from the gulf. He ascended to lat. 34 degrees +40 minutes where he fully satisfied himself that no channel did exist +between them. He found, however, that the ranges behind Cape Jervis +terminated abruptly at Mount Lofty, in lat. 34 degrees 56 minutes, and, +that a flat and wooded country succeeded to the N. and N.E. The shore of +the gulf tended more to the N.N.W., and mud flats and mangrove swamps +prevailed along it. + +INVITING COUNTRY--MOUNT LOFTY. + +Mr. Kent informs me, that they landed for the first time on the 15th, but +that they returned almost immediately to the vessel. On the 17th, Captain +Barker again landed, with the intention of remaining on shore for two or +three days. He was accompanied by Mr. Kent, his servant Mills, and two +soldiers. The boat went to the place at which they had before landed, as +they thought they had discovered a small river with a bar entrance. They +crossed the bar, and ascertained that it was a narrow inlet, of four miles +in length, that terminated at the base of the ranges. The party were quite +delighted with the aspect of the country on either side of the inlet, +and with the bold and romantic scenery behind them. The former bore the +appearance of natural meadows, lightly timbered, and covered with a +variety of grasses. The soil was observed to be a rich, fat, chocolate +coloured earth, probably the decomposition of the deep blue limestone, +that showed itself along the coast hereabouts. On the other hand, a rocky +glen made a cleft in the ranges at the head of the inlet; and they were +supplied with abundance of fresh water which remained in the deeper pools +that had been filled by the torrents during late rains. The whole +neighbourhood was so inviting that the party slept at the head of the +inlet. + +MOUNT LOFTY AND ITS ENVIRONS. + +In the morning, Captain Barker proceeded to ascend Mount Lofty, +accompanied by Mr. Kent and his servant, leaving the two soldiers at the +bivouac, at which he directed them to remain until his return. Mr. Kent +says they kept the ridge all the way, and rose above the sea by a gradual +ascent. The rock-formation of the lower ranges appeared to be an +argillaceous schist; the sides and summit of the ranges were covered with +verdure, and the trees upon them were of more than ordinary size. The view +to the eastward was shut out by other ranges, parallel to those on which +they were; below them to the westward, the same pleasing kind of country +that flanked the inlet still continued. + +MOUNT BARKER. + +In the course of the day they passed round the head of a deep ravine, +whose smooth and grassy sides presented a beautiful appearance. The party +stood 600 feet above the bed of a small rivulet that occupied the bottom +of the ravine. In some places huge blocks of granite interrupted its +course, in others the waters had worn the rock smooth. The polish of these +rocks was quite beautiful, and the veins of red and white quartz which +traversed them, looked like mosaic work. They did not gain the top of +Mount Lofty, but slept a few miles beyond the ravine. In the morning +they continued their journey, and, crossing Mount Lofty, descended +northerly, to a point from which the range bent away a little to the +N.N.E., and then terminated. The view from this point was much more +extensive than that from Mount Lofty itself. They overlooked a great part +of the gulf, and could distinctly see the mountains at the head of it to +the N.N.W. To the N.W. there was a considerable indentation in the coast, +which had escaped Captain Barker's notice when examining it. A mountain, +very similar to Mount Lofty, bore due east of them, and appeared to be the +termination of its range. They were separated by a valley of about ten +miles in width, the appearance of which was not favourable. Mr. Kent +states to me, that Capt. Barker observed at the time that he thought it +probable I had mistaken this hill for Mount Lofty, since it shut out the +view of the lake from him, and therefore he naturally concluded, I could +not have seen Mount Lofty. I can readily imagine such an error to have +been made by me, more especially as I remember that at the time I was +taking bearings in the lake, I thought Captain Flinders had not given +Mount Lofty, as I then conceived it to be, its proper position in +longitude. Both hills are in the same parallel of latitude. The mistake on +my part is obvious. I have corrected it in the charts, and have availed +myself of the opportunity thus afforded me of perpetuating, as far as I +can, the name of an inestimable companion in Captain Barker himself + +Immediately below the point on which they stood, Mr. Kent says, a low +undulating country extended to the northward, as far as he could see. +It was partly open, and partly wooded; and was every where covered with +verdure. It continued round to the eastward, and apparently ran down +southerly, at the opposite base of the mount Barker Range. I think there +can be but little doubt that my view from the S.E., that is, from the +lake, extended over the same or a part of the same country. Captain Barker +again slept on the summit of the range, near a large basin that looked +like the mouth of a crater, in which huge fragments of rocks made a scene +of the utmost confusion. These rocks were a coarse grey granite, of which +the higher parts and northern termination of the Mount Lofty range are +evidently formed; for Mr. Kent remarks that it superseded the schistose +formation at the ravine we have noticed--and that, subsequently, the sides +of the hills became more broken, and valleys, or gullies, more properly +speaking, very numerous. Captain Barker estimated the height of Mount +Lofty above the sea at 2,400 feet, and the distance of its summit from the +coast at eleven miles. Mr. Kent says they were surprised at the size of +the trees on the immediate brow of it; they measured one and found it to +be 43 feet in girth. Indeed, he adds, vegetation did not appear to have +suffered either from its elevated position, or from any prevailing wind. +Eucalypti were the general timber on the ranges; one species of which, +resembling strongly the black butted-gum, was remarkable for a scent +peculiar to its bark. + +AUSTRALIAN SALMON. + +The party rejoined the soldiers on the 21st, and enjoyed the supply of +fish which they had provided for them. The soldiers had amused themselves +by fishing during Captain Barker's absence, and had been abundantly +successful. Among others they had taken a kind of salmon, which, though +inferior in size, resembled in shape, in taste, and in the colour of its +flesh, the salmon of Europe. I fancied that a fish which I observed with +extremely glittering scales, in the mouth of a seal, when myself on the +coast, must have been of this kind; and I have no doubt that the lake is +periodically visited by salmon, and that these fish retain their habits of +entering fresh water at particular seasons, also in the southern +hemisphere. + +Immediately behind Cape Jervis, there is a small bay, in which according +to the information of the sealers who frequent Kangaroo Island, there is +good and safe anchorage for seven months in the year, that is to say, +during the prevalence of the E. and N.E. winds. + +SURVEY OF THE COAST. + +Captain Barker landed on the 21st on this rocky point at the northern +extremity of this bay. He had, however, previously to this, examined the +indentation in the coast which he had observed from Mount Lofty, and had +ascertained that it was nothing more than an inlet; a spit of sand, +projecting from the shore at right angles with it, concealed the month of +the inlet. They took the boat to examine this point, and carried six +fathoms soundings round the head of the spit to the mouth of the inlet, +when it shoaled to two fathoms, and the landing was observed to be bad, +by reason of mangrove swamps on either side of it. Mr. Kent, I think, told +me that this inlet was from ten to twelve miles long. Can it be that a +current setting out of it at times, has thrown up the sand-bank that +protects its mouth, and that trees, or any other obstacle, have hidden its +further prolongation from Captain Barker's notice? I have little hope that +such is the case, but the remark is not an idle one. + +BEAUTIFUL VALLEYS. + +Between this inlet and the one formerly mentioned, a small and clear +stream was discovered, to which Captain Barker kindly gave my name. On +landing, the party, which consisted of the same persons as the former one, +found themselves in a valley, which opened direct upon the bay. It was +confined to the north from the chief range by a lateral ridge, that +gradually declined towards and terminated at, the rocky point on which +they had landed. The other side of the valley was formed of a continuation +of the main range, which also gradually declined to the south, and +appeared to be connected with the hills at the extremity of the cape. +The valley was from nine to ten miles in length, and from three to four in +breadth. In crossing it, they ascertained that the lagoon from which the +schooner had obtained a supply of water, was filled by a watercourse that +came down its centre. The soil in the valley was rich, but stony in some +parts. There was an abundance of pasture over the whole, from amongst +which they started numerous kangaroos. The scenery towards the ranges was +beautiful and romantic, and the general appearance of the country such as +to delight the whole party. + +Preserving a due east course, Captain Barker passed over the opposite +range of hills, and descended almost immediately into a second valley that +continued to the southwards. Its soil was poor and stony, and it was +covered with low scrub. Crossing it, they ascended the opposite range, +from the summit of which they had a view of Encounter Bay. An extensive +flat stretched from beneath them to the eastward, and was backed, in the +distance, by sand hummocks, and low wooded hills. The extreme right of the +flat rested upon the coast, at a rocky point near which there were two or +three islands. From the left a beautiful valley opened upon it. A strong +and clear rivulet from this valley traversed the flat obliquely, and fell +into the sea at the rocky point, or a little to the southward of it. +The hills forming the opposite side of the valley had already terminated. +Captain Barker, therefore, ascended to higher ground, and, at length, +obtained a view of the Lake Alexandrina, and the channel of its +communication with the sea to the N.E. He now descended to the flat, and +frequently expressed his anxious wish to Mr. Kent that I had been one of +their number to enjoy the beauty of the scenery around them, and to +participate in their labours. Had fate so ordained it, it is possible the +melancholy tragedy that soon after occurred might have been averted. + +OUTLET OF LAKE TO THE SEA. + +At the termination of the flat they found themselves upon the banks of the +channel, and close to the sand hillock under which my tents had been +pitched. From this point they proceeded along the line of sand-hills to +the outlet; from which it would appear that Kangaroo Island is not +visible, but that the distant point which I mistook for it was the S.E. +angle of Cape Jervis. I have remarked, in describing that part of the +coast, that there is a sand-hill to the eastward of the inlet, under which +the tide runs strong, and the water is deep. Captain Barker judged the +breadth of the channel to be a quarter of a mile, and he expressed a +desire to swim across it to the sand-hill to take bearings, and to +ascertain the nature of the strand beyond it to the eastward. + +It unfortunately happened, that he was the only one of the party who could +swim well, in consequence of which his people remonstrated with him on the +danger of making the attempt unattended. Notwithstanding, however, that +he was seriously indisposed, he stripped, and after Mr. Kent had fastened +his compass on his head for him, he plunged into the water, and with +difficulty gained the opposite side; to effect which took him nine minutes +and fifty-eight seconds. His anxious comrades saw him ascend the hillock, +and take several bearings; he then descended the farther side, and was +never seen by them again. + +CIRCUMSTANCES ATTENDING THE LOSS OF CAPTAIN BARKER. + +For a considerable time Mr. Kent remained stationary, in momentary +expectation of his return; but at length, taking the two soldiers with +him, he proceeded along the shore in search of wood for a fire. At about +a quarter of a mile, the soldiers stopped and expressed their wish to +return, as their minds misgave them, and they feared that Captain Barker +had met with some accident. While conversing, they heard a distant shout, +or cry, which Mr. Kent thought resembled the call of the natives, but +which the soldiers positively declared to be the voice of a white man. +On their return to their companions, they asked if any sounds had caught +their ears, to which they replied in the negative. The wind was blowing +from the E.S.E., in which direction Captain Barker had gone; and, to me, +the fact of the nearer party not having heard that which must have been +his cries for assistance, is satisfactorily accounted for, as, being +immediately under the hill, the sounds must have passed over their heads +to be heard more distinctly at the distance at which Mr. Kent and the +soldiers stood. It is more than probable, that while his men were +expressing their anxiety about him, the fearful tragedy was enacting which +it has become my painful task to detail. + +Evening closed in without any signs of Captain Barker's return, or any +circumstance by which Mr. Kent could confirm his fears that he had fallen +into the hands of the natives. For, whether it was that the tribe which +had shown such decided hostility to me when on the coast had not observed +the party, none made their appearance; and if I except two, who crossed +the channel when Mr. Kent was in search of wood, they had neither seen nor +heard any; and Captain Barker's enterprising disposition being well known +to his men, hopes were still entertained that he was safe. A large fire +was kindled, and the party formed a silent and anxious group around it. +Soon after night-fall, however, their attention was roused by the sounds +of the natives, and it was at length discovered, that they had lighted a +chain of small fires between the sand-hill Captain Barker had ascended and +the opposite side of the channel, around which their women were chanting +their melancholy dirge. It struck upon the ears of the listeners with an +ominous thrill, and assured them of the certainty of the irreparable loss +they had sustained. All night did those dismal sounds echo along that +lonely shore, but as morning dawned, they ceased, and Mr. Kent and his +companions were again left in anxiety and doubt. They, at length, thought +it most advisable to proceed to the schooner to advise with Doctor +Davies. They traversed the beach with hasty steps, but did not get on +board till the following day. It was then determined to procure assistance +from the sealers on Kangaroo Island, as the only means by which they could +ascertain their leader's fate, and they accordingly entered American +Harbour. For a certain reward, one of the men agreed to accompany Mr. Kent +to the main with a native woman, to communicate with the tribe that was +supposed to have killed him. They landed at or near the rocky point of +Encounter Bay, where they were joined by two other natives, one of whom +was blind. The woman was sent forward for intelligence, and on her return +gave the following details: + +ACCOUNT OF HIS MURDER. + +It appears that at a very considerable distance from the first sand-hill, +there is another to which Captain Barker must have walked, for the woman +stated that three natives were going to the shore from their tribe, and +that they crossed his tract. Their quick perception immediately told them +it was an unusual impression. They followed upon it, and saw Captain +Barker returning. They hesitated for a long time to approach him, being +fearful of the instrument he carried. At length, however, they closed upon +him. Capt. Barker tried to soothe them, but finding that they were +determined to attack him, he made for the water from which he could not +have been very distant. One of the blacks immediately threw his spear and +struck him in the hip. This did not, however, stop him. He got among the +breakers, when he received the second spear in the shoulder. On this, +turning round, he received a third full in the breast: with such deadly +precision do these savages cast their weapons. It would appear that the +third spear was already on its flight when Capt. Barker turned, and it is +to be hoped, that it was at once mortal. He fell on his back into the +water. The natives then rushed in, and dragging him out by the legs, +seized their spears, and indicted innumerable wounds upon his body; +after which, they threw it into deep water, and the sea-tide carried it +away. + +HIS CHARACTER. + +Such, we have every reason to believe, was the untimely fate of this +amiable and talented man. It is a melancholy satisfaction to me thus +publicly to record his worth; instrumental, as I cannot but in some +measure consider my last journey to have been in leading to this fatal +catastrophe. Captain Barker was in disposition, as he was in the close +of his life, in many respects similar to Captain Cook. Mild, affable, and +attentive, he had the esteem and regard of every companion, and the +respect of every one under him. Zealous in the discharge of his public +duties, honourable and just in private life; a lover and a follower of +science; indefatigable and dauntless in his pursuits; a steady friend, +an entertaining companion; charitable, kind-hearted, disinterested, +and sincere--the task is equally difficult to find adequate expressions of +praise or of regret. In him the king lost one of his most valuable +officers, and his regiment one of its most efficient members. Beloved as +he was, the news of his loss struck his numerous friends with sincere +grief, but by none was it more severely felt than by the humble individual +who has endeavoured thus feebly to draw his portrait. + +From the same source from which the particulars of his death were +obtained, it was reported that the natives who perpetrated the deed were +influenced by no other motive than curiosity to ascertain if they had +power to kill a white man. But we must be careful in giving credit to +this, for it is much more probable that the cruelties exercised by the +sealers towards the blacks along the south coast, may have instigated the +latter to take vengeance on the innocent as well as on the guilty. It will +be seen, by a reference to the chart, that Captain Barker, by crossing the +channel, threw himself into the very hands of that tribe which had evinced +such determined hostility to myself and my men. He got into the rear of +their strong hold, and was sacrificed to those feelings of suspicion, and +to that desire of revenge, which the savages never lose sight of until +they have been gratified. + +FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY, AND CAPABILITIES OF THE COAST. + +It yet remains for me to state that when Mr. Kent returned to the +schooner, after this irreparable loss, he kept to the south of the place +at which he had crossed the first range with Captain Barker, and travelled +through a valley right across the promontory. He thus discovered that +there was a division in the ranges, through which there was a direct and +level road from the little bay on the northern extremity of which they had +last landed in St. Vincent's Gulf, to the rocky point of Encounter Bay. +The importance of this fact will be better estimated, when it is known +that good anchorage is secured to small vessels inside the island that +lies off the point of Encounter Bay, which is rendered still safer by a +horse shoe reef that forms, as it were, a thick wall to break the swell of +the sea. But this anchorage is not safe for more than five months in the +year. Independently of these points, however, Mr. Kent remarks, that the +spit a little to the north of Mount Lofty would afford good shelter to +minor vessels under its lee. When the nature of the country is taken into +consideration, and the facility of entering that which lies between the +ranges and the Lake Alexandrina, from the south, and of a direct +communication with the lake itself, the want of an extensive harbour will, +in some measure, be compensated for, more especially when it is known that +within four leagues of Cape Jervis, a port little inferior to Port +Jackson, with a safe and broad entrance, exists at Kangaroo Island. The +sealers have given this spot the name of American Harbour. In it, I am +informed, vessels are completely land-locked, and secure from every wind. +Kangaroo Island is not, however, fertile by any means. It abounds in +shallow lakes filled with salt water during high tides, and which, by +evaporation, yield a vast quantity of salt. + +I gathered from the sealers that neither the promontory separating +St. Vincent from Spencer's Gulf, nor the neighbourhood of Port Lincoln, +are other than barren and sandy wastes. They all agree in describing Port +Lincoln itself as a magnificent roadstead, but equally agree as to the +sterility of its shores. It appears, therefore, that the promontory of +Cape Jervis owes its superiority to its natural features; in fact, to the +mountains that occupy its centre, to the debris that has been washed from +them, and to the decomposition of the better description of its rocks. +Such is the case at Illawarra, where the mountains approach the sea; such +indeed is the case every where, at a certain distance from mountain +ranges. + +ADAPTION OF THIS PART OF THE COUNTRY FOR COLONISATION. + +From the above account it would appear that a spot has, at length, been +found upon the south coast of New Holland, to which the colonist might +venture with every prospect of success, and in whose valleys the exile +might hope to build for himself and for his family a peaceful and +prosperous home. All who have ever landed upon the eastern shore of +St. Vincent's Gulf, agree as to the richness of its soil, and the +abundance of its pasture. Indeed, if we cast our eyes upon the chart, and +examine the natural features of the country behind Cape Jervis, we shall +no longer wonder at its differing in soil and fertility from the low and +sandy tracks that generally prevail along the shores of Australia. Without +entering largely into the consideration of the more remote advantages that +would, in all human probability, result from the establishment of a +colony, rather than a penal settlement, at St. Vincent's Gulf, it will be +expedient to glance hastily over the preceding narrative, and, disengaging +it from all extraneous matter, to condense, as much as possible, the +information it contains respecting the country itself; for I have been +unable to introduce any passing remark, lest I should break the thread of +an interesting detail. + +The country immediately behind Cape Jervis may, strictly speaking, be +termed a promontory, bounded to the west by St. Vincent's Gulf, and to the +east by the lake Alexandrina, and the sandy track separating that basin +from the sea. Supposing a line to be drawn from the parallel of 34 degrees +40 minutes to the eastward, it will strike the Murray river about 25 miles +above the head of the lake, and will clear the ranges, of which Mount +Lofty and Mount Barker are the respective terminations. The line will cut +off a space whose greatest breadth will be 55 miles, whose length from +north to south will be 75, and whose surface exceeds 7 millions of acres; +from which if we deduct 2 millions for the unavailable hills, we shall +have 5 millions of acres of land, of rich soil, upon which no scrub +exists, and whose most distant points are accessible, through a level +country on the one hand, and by water on the other. The southern extremity +of the ranges can be turned by that valley through which Mr. Kent returned +to the schooner, after Captain Barker's death. It is certain, therefore, +that this valley not only secures so grand a point, but also presents a +level line of communication from the small bay immediately to the north of +the cape, to the rocky point of Encounter Bay, at both of which places +there is safe anchorage at different periods of the year. + +HINTS FOR FUTURE EXPEDITIONS. + +The only objection that can be raised to the occupation of this spot, is +the want of an available harbour. Yet it admits of great doubt whether the +contiguity of Kangaroo Island to Cape Jervis, (serving as it does to break +the force of the prevailing winds, as also of the heavy swell that would +otherwise roll direct into the bay,) and the fact of its possessing a safe +and commodious harbour, certainly at an available distance, does not in a +great measure remove the objection. Certain it is that no port, with the +exception of that on the shores of which the capital of Australia is +situated, offers half the convenience of this, although it be detached +between three and four leagues from the main. + +On the other hand it would appear, that there is no place from which at +any time the survey of the more central parts of the continent could be so +effectually carried on; for in a country like Australia, where the chief +obstacle to be apprehended in travelling is the want of water, the +facilities afforded by the Murray and its tributaries, are indisputable; +and I have little doubt that the very centre of the continent might be +gained by a judicious and enterprising expedition. Certainly it is most +desirable to ascertain whether the river I have supposed to be the Darling +be really so or not. I have stated my objection to depots, but I think +that if a party commenced its operations upon the Murray from the +junction upwards, and, after ascertaining the fact of its ultimate course, +turned away to the N.W. up one of the tributaries of the Murray, with a +supply of six months' provisions, the results would be of the most +satisfactory kind, and the features of the country be wholly developed. +I cannot, I think, conclude this work better than by expressing a hope, +that the Colonial Government will direct such measures to be adopted as +may be necessary for the extension of our geographical knowledge in +Australia. The facilities of fitting out expeditions in New South Wales, +render the expenses of little moment, when compared with the importance of +the object in view; and although I am labouring under the effects of +former attempts, yet would I willingly give such assistance as I could to +carry such an object into effect. + + + + + +APPENDIX. + + + + +APPENDIX No. I. + + + +GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS FOUND TO THE SOUTH-WEST OF PORT JACKSON. + + +Considering the nature of the country over which the first expedition +travelled, it could hardly have been expected that its geological +specimens would be numerous. It will appear, however, from the following +list of rocks collected during the second expedition, that the geological +formation of the mountains to the S.W. of Port Jackson is as various as +that to the N.W. of it is mountainous. The specimens are described not +according to their natural order, but in the succession in which they +were found, commencing from Yass Plains, and during the subsequent stages +of the journey. + + +Sandstone, Old Red.--Found on various parts of Yass Plains, in contact +with + +Limestone, Transition.--Colour dark grey; composes the bed of the Yass +River, and apparently traverses the sandstone formation. Yass Plains lie +170 miles to the S.W. of Sydney. + +Sandstone, Old Red.--Again succeeds the limestone, and continues to the +N.W. to a considerable distance over a poor and scrubby country, covered +for the most part with a dwarf species of Eucalyptus. + +Granite.--Colour grey; feldspar, black mica, and quartz: succeeds the +sandstone, and continues to the S.W. as far as the Morumbidgee River, +over an open forest country broken into hill and dale. It is generally on +these granite rocks that the best grazing is found. + +Greywacke.--Colour grey, of light hue, or dark, with black specks. +Soft.--Composition of a part of the ranges that form the valley of the +Morumbidgee. + +Serpentine.--Colour green of different shades, striped sulphur yellow; +slaty fracture, soft and greasy to the touch. Forms hills of moderate +elevation, of peculiarly sharp spine, resting on quartz. Composition of +most of the ranges opposite the Doomot River on the Morumbidgee, in +lat. 35 degrees 4 minutes and long. 147 degrees 40 minutes. + +Quartz.--Colour snow-white; formation of the higher ranges on the left +bank of the Morumbidgee, in the same latitude and longitude as above; +showing in large blocks on the sides of the hills. + +Slaty Quartz, with varieties.--Found with the quartz rock, in a state +of decomposition. + +Granite.--Succeeds the serpentine, of light colour; feldspar decomposed; +mica, glittering and silvery white. + +Sandstone, Old Red.--Composition of the more distant ranges on the +Morumbidgee. Forms abrupt precipices over the river flats; of sterile +appearance, and covered with Banksias and scrub. + +Mica Slate.--Colour dark brown, approaching red; mica glittering. +The hills enclosing Pondebadgery Plain at the gorge of the valley of the +Morumbidgee, are composed of this rock. They are succeeded by + +Sandstone.--Which rises abruptly from the river in perpendicular cliffs, +of 145 feet in height. + +Jasper and quartz.--Colour red and white. Forms the slope of the above +sandstone, and may be considered the outermost of the rocks connected with +the Eastern or Blue Mountain Ranges. It will be remembered that jasper and +quartz were likewise found on a plain near the Darling River, precisely +similar to the above, although occurring at so great a distance from each +other. + +Granite.--Light red colour; composition of a small isolated hill, to all +appearance wholly unconnected with the neighbouring ranges. This specimen +is very similar to that found in the bed of New-Year's Creek. + +Brecaia.--Silicious cement, composed of a variety of pebbles. Formation of +the most WESTERLY of the hills between the Lachlan and Macquarie Rivers. +This conglomerate was also found to compose the minor and most westerly of +the elevations of the more northern interior. + +Chrystallised Sulphate of Lime.--Found embedded in the deep alluvial soil +in the banks of the Morumbidgee River, in lat. 34 degrees 30 minutes S., +and long. 144 degrees 55 minutes E. The same substance was found on the +banks of the Darling, in lat. 29 degrees 49 minutes S., and in +long. 145 degrees 18 minutes E. + + +A reference to the chart will show that the Morumbidgee, from the first of +the above positions, may be said to have entered the almost dead level of +the interior. No elevation occurs to the westward for several hundreds of +miles. A coarse grit occasionally traversed the beds of the rivers, and +their lofty banks of clay or marl appear to be based on sandstone and +granitic sand. The latter occurs in slabs of four inches in thickness, +divided by a line of saffron-coloured sand, and seems to have been +subjected to fusion, as if the particles or grains had been cemented +together by fusion. + + +The first decided break that takes place in the level of the interior +occurs upon the right bank of the Murray, a little below the junction of +the Rufus with it. A cliff of from 120 to 130 feet in perpendicular +elevation here flanks the river for about 200 yards, when it recedes from +it, and forms a spacious amphitheatre that is occupied by semicircular +hillocks, that partake of the same character as the cliff itself; the face +of which showed the various substances of which it was composed in +horizontal lines, that if prolonged would cut the same substance in the +hillocks. Based upon a soft white sandstone, a bed of clay formed the +lowest part of the cliff; upon this bed of clay, a bed of chalk reposed; +this chalk was superseded by a thick bed of saponaceous earth, whilst the +summit of the cliff was composed of a bright red sand. Semi-opal and +hydrate of silex were found in the chalk, and some beautiful specimens of +brown menelite were collected from the upper stratum of the cliff. + +A little below this singular place, the country again declines, when a +tertiary fossil formation shows itself, which, rising gradually as an +inclined plain, ultimately attains an elevation of 300 feet. This +formation continues to the very coast, since large masses of the rock were +observed in the channel of communication between the lake and the ocean; +and the hills to the left of the channel were based upon it. This great +bank cannot, therefore, average less than from seventy to ninety miles in +width. At its commencement, it strikingly resembled skulls piled one +on the other, as well in colour as appearance. This effect had been +produced by the constant rippling of water against the rock. The softer +parts had been washed away, and the shells (a bed of Turritella) alone +remained. + +Plate 1, Figures 1, 2, and 3, represent the selenite formation. + +Plate 2, represents a mass of the rock containing numerous kinds of +shells, of which the following are the most conspicuous: + +Cardium +Pectunculus +Corbula +Arca +Conus, and +Others unknown. + + +* * * + + +The following is a list of the fossils collected from various parts of +this formation, from which it is evident that a closer examination would +lead to the discovery of numberless species. + + +TUNICATA. + + +PLATE III. + +FIG.1 Eschara celleporacea. + 2 ------- piriformis. + 3 ------- UNNAMED. + +FIG.4 Cellepora echinata. + 5 --------- escharoides? + 6 Retcpora disticha. + 7 -------- vibicata. + 8 Glauconome rhombifera. + All Tertiary in Westphalia and England. + + +RADIATA + + + 9 Scutella. + 10 Spatangus Hoffmanni--Goldfuss. + Tertiary, in Westphalia. + 11 Echinus. + + +CONCHIFERA--BIVALVED SHELLS. + + + Corbula gallica--Paris basin--Tertiary. + Tellina? + Corbis lamellosa--Tertiary--Paris. + Lucina. + Venus (Cytherea) laevigata--ibid. + ----- ---------- obliqua --ibid. + Venus + Cardium?--fragments. + 12 Nucula--such is found in London clay. + 13 Pecten coarctatus?--Placentia. + ------ varius?--recent. + 14 ------ species unknown. + Two other Pectens also occur. + Ostrea elongata--Deshayes. + 15 Terebratula. + 16 One cast, genus unknown, perhaps a Cardium. + + +MOLUSCA--UNIVALVED SHELLS. + + + Bulla? Plate II., fig. 2. +FIG.17 Natica--small. + 18 ------ large species. + Dentalium? + 19 Trochus. + 20 Turritella. + ---------- in gyps. + 21 Murex. + 22 Buccinum? + 23 Mitra. + 24 ----- very short. + 25 Cypraea. + 26 Conus. + 27 ----- (Plate II., fig. 3.) + 28 Two, unknown, (Also Plate II, fig. 4.) + The above all appear to belong to the newer tertiary formations. + +[Fig.17 to 27--These genera are scarcely ever, and some of them not at +all, found in any but tertiary formations.] + + A block of coarse red granite forms an island in the centre of the + river near the lake, but is nowhere else visible, although it is very + probably the basis of the surrounding country. + + +ROCK FORMATION OF THE COAST RANGE OF ST. VINCENT'S GULF. + + +Primitive Transition Limestone.--Light grey, striped. Altered in +appearance by volcanic action; occurs on the Ranges north of Cape Jervis. + +Granite.--Colour, red; found on the west side of Encounter Bay. + +Brown Spar.--South point of Cape Jervis. + +Sandstone, Old Red.--East coast of St, Vincent's Gulf. + +Limestone, Transition.--Colour, blue. East Coast of St. Vincent's Gulf. +Formation near the first inlet. Continuing to the base of the Ranges. + +Clay Slate.--Composition of the lower part of the Mount Lofty Range. + +Granite.--Fine grained, red; forms the higher parts of the Mount Lofty +Range. + +Quartz, with Tourmaline.--Lower parts of the Mount Lofty Range. + +Limestone Flustra, and their Corallines, probably tertiary.--From the +mouth of the Sturt, on the coast line, nearly abreast of Mount Lofty. + + + + +APPENDIX No. II. + + + +OFFICIAL REPORT TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT. + + +* * * * * + +GOVERNMENT ORDER. + +Colonial Secretary's Office, Sydney, +May 10, 1830. + +His Excellency the Governor has much satisfaction in publishing the +following report of the proceedings of an expedition undertaken for the +purpose of tracing the course of the river "Morumbidgee," and of +ascertaining whether it communicated with the coast forming the southern +boundary of the colony. + +The expedition, which was placed under the direction of Captain Sturt, +of his Majesty's 39th Regiment, commenced its progress down the +"Morumbidgee" on the 7th day of January last, having been occupied +twenty-one days in performing the journey from Sydney. + +On the 14th January they entered a new river running from east to west, +now called the "Murray," into which the "Morumbidgee" flows. + +After pursuing the course of the "Murray" for several days, the expedition +observed another river (supposed to be that which Captain Sturt discovered +on his former expedition), uniting with the "Murray" which they examined +about five miles above the junction. + +The expedition again proceeded down the "Murray," and fell in with another +of its tributaries flowing from the south east, which Captain Sturt has +designated the "Lindesay;" and on the 8th February the "Murray" was +found to enter or form a lake, of from fifty to sixty miles in length, +and from thirty to forty in breadth, lying immediately to the eastward of +gulf St. Vincent, and extending to the southward, to the shore of +"Encounter Bay." + +Thus has Captain Sturt added largely, and in a highly important degree, +to the knowledge previously possessed of the interior. + +His former expedition ascertained the fate of the rivers Macquarie and +Castlereagh, on which occasion he also discovered a river which, there is +every reason to believe, is, in ordinary seasons, of considerable +magnitude. + +Should this, as Captain Sturt supposes, prove to be the same river as that +above-mentioned, as uniting with the "Murray," the existence of an +interior water communication for several hundreds of miles, extending from +the northward of "Mount Harris," down to the southern coast of the colony, +will have been established. + +It is to be regretted, that circumstances did not permit of a more perfect +examination of the lake, (which has been called "Alexandrina"), as the +immediate vicinage of Gulf St. Vincent furnishes a just ground of hope +that a more practicable and useful communication may be discovered in +that direction, than the channel which leads into "Encounter Bay." + +The opportunity of recording a second time the services rendered to the +colony by Captain Sturt, is as gratifying to the government which directed +the undertaking, as it is creditable to the individual who so successfully +conducted it to its termination.--It is an additional cause of +satisfaction to add, that every one, according to his sphere of action, +has a claim to a proportionate degree of applause. All were exposed alike +to the same privations and fatigue, and every one submitted with patience, +manifesting the most anxious desire for the success of the expedition. +The zeal of Mr. George M'Leay, the companion of Captain Sturt, when +example was so important, could not fail to have the most salutary effect; +and the obedience, steadiness, and good conduct of the men employed, merit +the highest praise. + +By his Excellency's command, + +ALEXANDER M'LEAY. + + +* * * * * + + +BANKS OF THE MORUMBIDGEE, APRIL 20TH, 1830. + +SIR,--The departure of Mr. George M'Leay for Sydney, who is anxious to +proceed homewards as speedily as possible, affords me an earlier +opportunity than would otherwise have presented itself, by which to make +you acquainted with the circumstance of my return, under the divine +protection, to the located districts; and I do myself the honour of +annexing a brief account of my proceedings since the last communication +for the information of His Excellency the Governor, until such time as I +shall have it in my power to give in a more detailed report. + +On the 7th of January, agreeably to the arrangements which had been made, +I proceeded down the Morumbidgee in the whale boat, with a complement of +six hands, independent of myself and Mr. M'Leay, holding the skiff in tow. +The river, for several days, kept a general W.S.W. course; it altered +little in appearance, nor did any material change take place in the +country upon its banks. The alluvial flats had occasionally an increased +breadth on either side of it, but the line of reeds was nowhere so +extensive as from previous appearances I had been led to expect. About +twelve miles from the depot, we passed a large creek junction from the +N.E. which, from its locality and from the circumstance of my having been +upon it in the direction of them, I cannot but conclude originates in the +marshes of the Lachlan. + +On the 11th, the Morumbidgee became much encumbered with fallen timber, +and its current was at times so rapid that I was under considerable +apprehension for the safety of the boats. The skiff had been upset on the +8th, and, although I could not anticipate such an accident to the large +boat, I feared she would receive some more serious and irremediable +injury. On the 14th, these difficulties increased upon us.--The channel +of the river became more contracted, and its current more impetuous. We +had no sooner cleared one reach, than fresh and apparently insurmountable +dangers presented themselves to us in the next. I really feared that every +precaution would have proved unavailing against such multiplied +embarrassments, and that ere night we should have possessed only the +wrecks of the expedition. From this state of anxiety, however, we were +unexpectedly relieved, by our arrival at 2 p.m. at the termination of the +Morumbidgee; from which we were launched into a broad and noble river, +flowing from E. to W. at the rate of two and a half knots per hour, over +a clear and sandy bed, of a medium width of from three to four hundred +feet. + +During the first stages of our journey upon this new river, which +evidently had its rise in the mountains of the S.E., we made rapid +progress to the W.N.W. through an unbroken and uninteresting country of +equal sameness of feature and of vegetation. On the 23rd, as the boats +were proceeding down it, several hundreds of natives made their appearance +upon the right bank, having assembled with premeditated purposes of +violence. I was the more surprised at this show of hostility, because we +had passed on general friendly terms, not only with those on the +Morumbidgee, but of the new river. Now, however, emboldened by numbers, +they seemed determined on making the first attack, and soon worked +themselves into a state of frenzy by loud and vehement shouting. As I +observed that the water was shoaling fast, I kept in the middle of the +stream; and, under an impression that it would be impossible for me to +avoid a conflict, prepared for an obstinate resistance. But, at the very +moment when, having arrived opposite to a large sand bank, on which +they had collected, the foremost of the blacks had already advanced +into the water, and I only awaited their nearer approach to fire +upon them, their impetuosity was restrained by the most unlooked +for and unexpected interference. They held back of a sudden, and +allowed us to pass unmolested. The boat, however, almost immediately +grounded on a shoal that stretched across the river, over which she +was with some difficulty hauled into deeper water,--when we found +ourselves opposite to a large junction from the eastward, little +inferior to the river itself. Had I been aware of this circumstance, I +should have been the more anxious with regard to any rupture with the +natives, and I was now happy to find that most of them had laid aside +their weapons and had crossed the junction, it appearing that they had +previously been on a tongue of land formed by the two streams. I therefore +landed among them to satisfy their curiosity and to distribute a few +presents before I proceeded up it. We were obliged to use the four oars to +stem the current against us; but, as soon as we had passed the mouth, +got into deeper water, and found easier pulling, The parallel in which we +struck it, and the direction from which it came, combined to assure me +that this could be no other than the "Darling." To the distance of two +miles it retained a breadth of one hundred yards and a depth of twelve +feet. Its banks were covered with verdure, and the trees overhanging them +were of finer and larger growth than those on the new river by which we +had approached it. Its waters had a shade of green, and were more turbid +than those of its neighbours, but they were perfectly sweet to the taste. + +Having satisfied myself on those points on which I was most anxious, +we returned to the junction to examine it more closely. + +The angle formed by the Darling with the new river is so acute, that +neither can be said to be tributary to the other; but more important +circumstances, upon which it is impossible for me to dwell at the present +moment, mark them as distinct rivers, which have been formed by Nature +for the same purposes, in remote and opposite parts of the island. Not +having as yet given a name to the latter, I now availed myself of the +opportunity of complying with the known wishes of His Excellency the +Governor, and, at the same time, in accordance with my own feelings as a +soldier I distinguished it by that of the "Murray." + +It had been my object to ascertain the decline of the vast plain through +which the Murray flows, that I might judge of the probable fall of the +waters of the interior; but by the most attentive observation I could not +satisfy myself upon the point. The course of the Darling now confirmed +my previous impression that it was to the south, which direction it was +evident the Murray also, in the subsequent stages of our journey down it, +struggled to preserve; from which it was thrown by a range of minor +elevations into a more westerly one. We were carried as far as 139 degrees +40 minutes of longitude, without descending below 34 degrees in point of +latitude; in consequence of which I expected that the river would +ultimately discharge itself, either into St. Vincent's Gulf or that of +Spencer, more especially as lofty ranges were visible in the direction of +them from the summit of the hills behind our camp, on the 2nd of February, +which I laid down as the coast line bounding them. + +A few days prior to the 2nd of February, we passed under some cliffs of +partial volcanic origin, and had immediately afterwards entered a +limestone country of the most singular formation. The river, although we +had passed occasional rapids of the most dangerous kind, had maintained a +sandy character from our first acquaintance with it to the limestone +division. It now forced itself through a glen of that rock of half a mile +in width, frequently striking precipices of more than two hundred feet +perpendicular elevation, in which coral and fossil remains were +plentifully embedded. On the 3rd February it made away to the eastward of +south, in reaches of from two to four miles in length. It gradually lost +its sandy bed, and became deep, still, and turbid; the glen expanded into +a valley, and the alluvial flats, which had hitherto been of +inconsiderable size, became proportionally extensive. The Murray increased +in breadth to more than four hundred yards, with a depth of twenty feet +of water close into the shore, and in fact formed itself into a safe and +navigable stream for any vessels of the minor class. On the 6th the cliffs +partially ceased, and on the 7th they gave place to undulating and +picturesque hills, beneath which thousands of acres of the richest flats +extended, covered, however, with reeds, and apparently subject to overflow +at any unusual rise of the river. + +It is remarkable that the view from the hills was always confined.--We +were apparently running parallel to a continuation of the ranges we had +seen on the 2nd, but they were seldom visible. The country generally +seemed darkly wooded, and had occasional swells upon it, but it was one +of no promise; the timber, chiefly box and pine, being of a poor growth, +and its vegetation languid. On the 8th the hills upon the left wore a +bleak appearance, and the few trees upon them were cut down as if by the +prevailing winds. At noon we could not observe any land at the extremity +of a reach we had just entered; some gentle hills still continued to form +the left lank of the river, but the right was hid from us by high reeds. +I consequently landed to survey the country from the nearest eminence, and +found that we were just about to enter an extensive lake which stretched +away to the S.W., the line of water meeting the horizon in that direction. +Some tolerably lofty ranges were visible to the westward at the distance +of forty miles, beneath which that shore was lost in haze. A hill, which I +prejudged to be Mount Lofty, bearing by compass S. 141 degrees W. More to +the northward, the country was low and unbacked by any elevations. A bold +promontory, which projected into the lake at the distance of seven +leagues, ended the view to the south along the eastern shore; between +which and the river the land also declined. The prospect altogether was +extremely gratifying, and the lake appeared to be a fitting reservoir for +the whole stream which had led us to it. + +In the evening we passed the entrance; but a strong southerly wind heading +us, we did not gain more than nine miles. In the morning it shifted to the +N.E. where we stood out for the promontory on a S.S.W. course. At noon we +were abreast of it, when a line of sand hummocks was ahead, scarcely +visible in consequence of the great refraction about them; but an open sea +behind us from the N.N.W. to the N.N.E. points of the compass. A meridian +altitude observed here, placed us in 35 degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds +S. lat.--At 1, I changed our course a little to the westward, and at +4 p.m. entered an arm of the lake leading W.S.W. On the point, at the +entrance, some natives had assembled, but I could not communicate with +them. They were both painted and armed, and evidently intended to resist +our landing. Wishing, however, to gain some information from them, +I proceeded a short distance below their haunt, and landed for the night, +in hopes that, seeing us peaceably disposed, they would have approached +the tents; but as they kept aloof, we continued our journey in the +morning. The water, which had risen ten inches during the night, had +fallen again in the same proportion, and we were stopped by shoals shortly +after starting. In hopes that the return of tide would have enabled us to +float over them, we waited for it very patiently, but were ultimately +obliged to drag the boat across a mud-flat of more than a quarter of a +mile into deeper water; but, after a run of about twenty minutes, were +again checked by sand banks. My endeavours to push beyond a certain point +were unsuccessful, and I was at length under the necessity of landing upon +the south shore for the night. Some small hummocks were behind us, on the +other side of which I had seen the ocean from our morning's position; +and whilst the men were pitching the tents, walked over them in company +with Mr. M'Leay to the sea shore, having struck the coast at Encounter +Bay, Cape Jervis, bearing by compass S. 81 degrees W. distant between +three and four leagues, and Kangaroo Island S.E. extremity S. 60 +degrees W. distant from nine to ten. + +Thirty-two days had elapsed since we had left the depot, and I regretted +in this stage of our journey, that I could not with prudence remain an +hour longer on the coast than was necessary for me to determine the exit +of the lake. From the angle of the channel on which we were, a bright +sand-hill was visible at about nine miles distance to the E.S.E.; which, +it struck me, was the eastern side of the passage communicating with the +ocean. Having failed in our attempts to proceed further in the boat, and +the appearance of the shoals at low water having convinced me of the +impracticability of it, I determined on an excursion along the sea-shore +to the southward and eastward, in anxious hopes that it would be a short +one; for as we had had a series of winds from the S.W. which had now +changed to the opposite quarter, I feared we should have to pull across +the lake in our way homewards. I left the camp therefore at an early hour, +in company with Mr. M'Leay and Fraser, and at day-break arrived opposite +to the sand-bank I have mentioned. Between us and it the entrance into the +back water ran. The passage is at all periods of the tide rather more than +a quarter of a mile in width, and is of sufficient depth for a boat to +enter, especially on the off side; but a line of dangerous breakers in +the bay will always prevent an approach to it from the sea, except in the +calmest weather, whilst the bay itself will always he a hazardous place +for any vessels to enter under any circumstances. + +Having, however, satisfactorily concluded our pursuit, we retraced our +steps to the camp, and again took the following bearings as we left the +beach, the strand trending E.S.E. 1/2 E.:-- + + Kangaroo Island, S.E. angle S. 60 degrees W.. + Low rocky point of Cape Jervis S. 81 degrees W. + Round Hill in centre of Range S. 164 degrees W. + Camp, distant one mile S. 171 degrees W. + Mount Lofty, distant forty miles N. 9 degrees E. + +Before setting sail, a bottle was deposited between four and five feet +deep in a mound of soft earth and shells, close to the spot on which the +tent had stood, which contained a paper of the names of the party, +together with a simple detail of our arrival and departure. + +It appeared that the good fortune, which had hitherto attended us was +still to continue, for the wind which had been contrary, chopped round to +the S.W., and ere sunset we were again in the mouth of the river, having +run from fifty to sixty miles under as much canvass as the boat would +bear, and with a heavy swell during the greater part of the day. + +The lake which has thus terminated our journey, is from fifty to sixty +miles in length, and from thirty to forty in width. With such an expanse +of water, I am correct in stating its medium depth at four feet. There is +a large bight in it to the S.E. and a beautiful and extensive bay to the +N.W. At about seven miles from the mouth of the river, its waters are +brackish, and at twenty-one miles they are quite salt, whilst seals +frequent the lower parts. Considering this lake to be of sufficient +importance, and in anticipation that its shores will, during her reign, +if not at an earlier period, be peopled by some portion of her subjects, +I have called it, in well-meant loyalty, "The Lake Alexandrina." + +It is remarkable that the Murray has few tributaries below the Darling. +It receives one, however, of considerable importance from the S.E., to +which I have given the name of the "Lindesay," as a mark of respect to my +commanding-officer, and in remembrance of the many acts of kindness I have +received at his hands. + +Having dwelt particularly on the nature of the country through which the +expedition has passed in the pages of my journal, it may be unnecessary +for me to enter into any description of it in this place, further than to +observe, that the limestone continued down to the very coast, and that +although the country in the neighbourhood of the Lake Alexandrina must, +from local circumstances, be rich in point of soil, the timber upon it is +of stunted size, and that it appears to have suffered from drought, +though not to the same extent with the eastern coast. It is evident, +however, that its vicinity to high lands does not altogether exempt it +from such periodical visitations; still I have no doubt that my +observations upon it will convince His Excellency the Governor, that it is +well worthy of a closer, and more attentive examination, than I had it in +my power to make. + +In a geographical point of view, I am happy to believe that the result of +this expedition has been conclusive; and that, combined with the late one, +it has thrown much light upon the nature of the interior of the vast +Island; that the decline of waters, as far as the parallel of 139 degrees +E., is to the south, and that the Darling is to the N.E. as the Murray +is to the S.E. angle of the coast, the main channel by which the waters of +the central ranges are thrown or discharged into one great reservoir. + +Our journey homewards was only remarkable for its labour: in conclusion, +therefore, it remains for me to add that we reached the depot on the +23rd of March. + +Our sugar failed us on the 18th of February, and our salt provisions, +in consequence of the accident which happened to the skiff, on the 8th of +March; so that from the above period we were living on a reduced ration of +flour; and as we took few fish, and were generally unsuccessful with our +guns, the men had seldom more than their bread to eat. + +I regretted to observe that they were daily falling off, and that although +unremitting in their exertions they were well nigh exhausted, ere we +reached the Morumbidgee. + +We were from sunrise to five o'clock on the water, and from the day +that we left the depot to that of our return we never rested upon our +oars. We were thirty-nine days gaining the depot from the coast, against +a strong current in both rivers, being seven more than it took us to go +down. From the depot to this station we had seventeen days hard pulling, +making a total of eighty-eight, during which time we could not have +travelled over less than 2000 miles. I was under the necessity of stopping +short on the 10th instant, and of detaching two men for the drays, which +happily arrived on the 17th, on which day our stock of flour failed us. +Had I not adopted this plan, the men would have become too weak to have +pulled up to Pondebadgery, and we should no doubt have suffered some +privations. + +This detail will, I am sure, speak more in favour of the men composing the +party than anything I can say. I would most respectfully recommend them +all to His Excellency's notice; and I beg to assure him that, during the +whole of this arduous journey, they were cheerful, zealous, and obedient. +They had many harassing duties to perform, and their patience and temper +were often put to severe trials by the natives, of whom we could not have +seen fewer than 4000 on the Murray alone. + +I am to refer His Excellency the Governor to Mr. M'Leay for any more +immediate information he may require,--to whom I stand indebted on many +points--and not less in the anxiety he evinced for the success of the +undertaking, than in the promptitude with which he assisted in the labours +attendant on our return, and his uniform kindness to the men. + +I have the honour to subscribe myself, +Sir, +Your most obedient humble Servant, +CHARLES STURT, +Captain of the 39th Regt. + +The Hon. the Colonial Secretary. + + + +END OF VOLUME II + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg Etext of Two Expeditions into the Interior of +Southern Australia Volume II by Charles Sturt + diff --git a/old/xpss211.zip b/old/xpss211.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..98439c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/xpss211.zip diff --git a/old/xpss212.txt b/old/xpss212.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..471b1fa --- /dev/null +++ b/old/xpss212.txt @@ -0,0 +1,7482 @@ +The Project Gutenberg Etext of Two Expeditions into the Interior of +Southern Australia Volume II by Charles Sturt +#2 in our series by Charles Sturt + +Copyright laws are changing all over the world. 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FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.10/04/01*END* + + + + + + +This etext was produced by Col Choat colc@gutenberg.net.au. + + + + +This etext was produced by Col Choat colc@gutenberg.net.au. + + + + + +TWO EXPEDITIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA DURING THE YEARS +1828,1829,1830,1831 WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE SOIL, CLIMATE AND GENERAL +RESOURCES OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES. + +IN TWO VOLUMES + +VOLUME II. + + +"For though most men are contented only to see a river as it runs by +them, and talk of the changes in it as they happen; when it is troubled, +or when clear; when it drowns the country in a flood, or forsakes it in a +drought: yet he that would know the nature of the water, and the causes of +those accidents (so as to guess at their continuance or return), must find +out its source, and observe with what strength it rises, what length it +runs, and how many small streams fall in, and feed it to such a height, +as make it either delightful or terrible to the eye, and useful or +dangerous to the country about it."...SIR WILLIAM TEMPLE'S NETHERLANDS. + + + + + +CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME + +EXPEDITION DOWN THE MORUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY RIVERS, IN 1829, 1830 AND 1831. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Introductory--Remarks on the results of the former Expedition--The +fitting out of another determined on--Its objects--Provisions, +accoutrements, and retinue--Paper furnished by Mr. Kent--Causes that have +prevented the earlier appearance of the present work. + + +CHAPTER II. + +Commencement of the expedition in November, 1829.--Joined by Mr. George +M'Leay--Appearance of the party--Breadalbane Plains--Hospitality of Mr. +O'Brien--Yass Plains--Hill of Pouni--Path of a hurricane--Character of the +country between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee--Appearance of that river-- +Junction of the Dumot with it--Crossing and recrossing--Geological +character and general aspect of the country--Plain of Pondebadgery--Few +natives seen. + + +CHAPTER III. + +Character of the Morumbidgee where it issues from the hilly country-- +Appearance of approach to swamps--Hamilton Plains--Intercourse with the +natives--Their appearance, customs, &c.--Change in the character of the +river--Mirage-- Dreariness of the country--Ride towards the Lachlan river +--Two boats built and launched on the Morumbidgee; and the drays, with +part of the men sent back to Goulburn Plains. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +Embarkation of the party in the boats, and voyage down the Morumbidgee-- +The skiff swamped by striking on a sunken tree--Recovery of boat and its +loading--Region of reeds--Dangers of the navigation--Contraction of the +channel--Reach the junction of a large river--Intercourse with the natives +on its banks--Character of the country below the junction of the rivers-- +Descent of a dangerous rapid--Warlike demonstrations of a tribe of +natives--Unexpected deliverance from a conflict with them--Junction of +another river--Give the name of the "Murray" to the principal stream. + + +CHAPTER V. + +Character of the country--Damage of provisions--Adroitness of the natives +in catching fish--The skiff broken up--Stream from the North-East supposed +to be the Darling--Change of country in descending the river--Intercourse +with the natives--Prevalence of loathsome diseases among them--Apparent +populousness of the country--Junction of several small streams--The Rufus, +the Lindesay, &c.--Rainy and tempestuous weather--Curious appearance of +the banks--Troublesomeness of the natives--Inhospitable and desolate +aspect of the country--Condition of the men--Change in the geological +character of the country--The river passes through a valley among hills. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +Improvement in the aspect of the country--Increase of the river--Strong +westerly gales--Chronometer broken--A healthier tribe of natives-- +Termination of the Murray in a large lake--Its extent and environs-- +Passage across it--Hostile appearance of the natives-- Beautiful scenery +--Channel from the lake to the sea at Encounter Bay--Reach the beach-- +Large flocks of water fowl--Curious refraction--State of provisions-- +Embarrassing situation--Inspection of the channel to the ocean--Weak +condition of the men--Difficulties of the return. + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Valley of the Murray--Its character and capabilities--Laborious progress +up the river--Accident to the boat--Perilous collision with the natives +--Turbid current of the Rufus--Passage of the Rapids--Assisted by the +natives--Dangerous intercourse with them--Re-enter the Morumbidgee-- +Verdant condition of its banks--Nocturnal encounter with the natives-- +Interesting manifestation of feeling in one family--Reach the spot where +the party had embarked on the river--Men begin to fail entirely-- +Determine to send two men forward for relief--Their return--Excursion on +horseback--Reach Pondebadgery Plain, and meet the supplies from the +colony--Cannibalism of the natives--Return to Sydney--Concluding remarks. + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Environs of the lake Alexandrina--Appointment of Capt. Barker to make a +further survey of the coast near Encounter Bay--Narrative of his +proceedings--Mount Lofty, Mount Barker, and beautiful country adjacent-- +Australian salmon--Survey of the coast--Outlet of lake to the sea-- +Circumstances that led to the slaughter of Capt. Barker by the natives-- +His character--Features of this part of the country and capabilities of +its coasts--Its adaptation for colonization--Suggestions for the +furtherance of future Expeditions. + + +APPENDIX. + +No. I. Geological Specimens found to the south-west of Port Jackson +No. II. Official Report to the Colonial Government + + +ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE SECOND VOLUME +(Not included in this etext) + +View on the Morumbidgee River +Junction of the supposed Darling with the Murray +Palaeornis Melanura, or Black Tailed Paroquet +Pomatorhinus Temporalis +Pomatorhinus Superciliosus +Chart of Cape Jervis, and Encounter Bay +Mass of Fossils of the Tertiary Formation +Bulla +Conus +Genus Unknown +Chrystallized Selenite +Selenite +Single Fossils of the Tertiary Formation + + + + +EXPEDITION DOWN THE MORUMBIDGEE AND MURRAY RIVERS, IN 1829, 1830 AND 1831. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + +Introductory + + +Remarks on the results of the former Expedition--The fitting out of +another determined on--Its objects--Provisions, accoutrements, and +retinue--Paper furnished by Mr. Kent--Causes that have prevented the +earlier appearance of the present work. + +OBJECTS OF THE EXPEDITION. + +The expedition of which we have just detailed the proceedings was so far +satisfactory in its results, that it not only set at rest the hypothesis +of the existence of an internal shoal sea in southern Australia, and +ascertained the actual termination of the rivers it had been directed to +trace, but also added very largely to our knowledge of the country +considerably to the westward of former discoveries. And although no land +had been traversed of a fertile description of sufficient extent to invite +the settler, the fact of a large river such as the Darling lying at the +back of our almost intertropical settlements, gave a fresh importance to +the distant interior. It was evident that this river was the chief drain +for carrying off the waters falling westerly from the eastern coast, and +as its course indicated a decline of country diametrically opposite to +that which had been calculated upon, it became an object of great +importance to ascertain its further direction. Had not the saline quality +of its waters been accounted for, by the known existence of brine springs +in its bed, it would have been natural to have supposed that it +communicated with some mediterranean sea; but, under existing +circumstances, it remained to be proved whether this river held on a due +south course, or whether it ultimately turned westerly, and ran into the +heart of the interior. In order fully to determine this point, it would be +necessary to regain it banks, so far below the parallel to which it had +been traced as to leave no doubt of its identity; but it was difficult to +fix upon a plan for approaching that central stream without suffering from +the want of water, since it could hardly be expected that the Lachlan +would afford such means, as it was reasonable to presume that its +termination was very similar to that of the Macquarie. The attention of +the government was, consequently, fixed upon the Morumbidgee, a river +stated to be of considerable size and of impetuous current. Receiving its +supplies from the lofty ranges behind Mount Dromedary, it promised to hold +a longer course than those rivers which, depending on periodical rains +alone for existence, had been found so soon to exhaust themselves. + +PREPARATIONS. + +The fitting out of another expedition was accordingly determined upon; and +about the end of September 1829, I received the Governor's instructions to +make the necessary preparations for a second descent into the interior, +for the purpose of tracing the Morumbidgee, or such rivers as it might +prove to be connected with, as far as practicable. In the event of failure +in this object, it was hoped that an attempt to regain the banks of the +Darling on a N.W. course from the point at which the expedition might be +thwarted in its primary views, would not be unattended with success. Under +any circumstances, however, by pursuing these measures, an important part +of the colony would necessarily be traversed, of which the features were +as yet altogether unknown. + +It became my interest and my object to make the expedition as complete as +possible, and, as far as in me lay, to provide for every contingency: and +as it appeared to me that, in all likelihood, we should in one stage or +other of our journey have to trust entirely to water conveyance, I +determined on taking a whale-boat, whose dimensions and strength should in +some measure be proportioned to the service required. I likewise +constructed a small still for the distillation of water, in the event of +our finding the water of the Darling salt, when we should reach its banks. +The whale-boat, after being fitted, was taken to pieces for more +convenient carriage, as has been more particularly detailed in the last +chapter of the preceding volume. + +So little danger had been apprehended from the natives in the former +journey, that three firelocks had been considered sufficient for our +defence. On the present occasion, however, I thought it adviseable to +provide arms for each individual. + +Mr. Hume declined accompanying me, as the harvest was at hand. Mr. George +M'Leay therefore supplied his place, rather as a companion than as an +assistant; and of those who accompanied me down the banks of the +Macquarie, I again selected Harris (my body servant), Hopkinson, and +Fraser. + +MR. KENT'S REPORT. + +The concluding chapter of this volume, relative to the promontory of +St. Vincent, or Cape Jervis, has been furnished me by the kindness of +Mr. Kent, who accompanied the lamented officer to whom the further +exploration of that part of coast unhappily proved fatal. There is a +melancholy coincidence between Captain Barker's death and that of Captain +Cook, which cannot fail to interest the public, as the information that +has been furnished will call for their serious consideration. I shall +leave for their proper place, the remarks I have to offer upon it, since +my motive in these prefatory observations has been, to carry the reader +forward to that point at which he will have to view the proceedings of the +expedition alone, in order the more satisfactorily to arrive at their +results. And, although he must expect a considerable portion of dry +reading in the following pages, I have endeavoured to make the narrative +of events, some of which are remarkably striking, as interesting as +possible. + +REMARKS ON THE PRESENT WORK; DELIVERANCE FROM DANGERS. + +It only remains for me to refer the reader to the concluding chapter of +the preceding volume, for such general information as I have been enabled +to furnish upon the nature of the services on which I was employed, and on +the manner of conducting similar expeditions. Indeed, I trust that this +book (whatever be its defects) will be found to contain much valuable +information of a practical character, and I may venture to affirm, that it +will give a true description of the country, and of the various other +subjects of which it treats. + +Notwithstanding that I have in my dedication alluded to the causes that +prevented the earlier appearance of this work, I feel it due both to +myself and the public here to state, that during these expeditions my +health had suffered so much, that I was unable to bear up against the +effects of exposure, bodily labour, poverty of diet, and the anxiety of +mind to which I was subjected. A residence on Norfolk Island, under +peculiarly harassing circumstances, completed that which the above causes +had commenced; and, after a succession of attacks, I became totally blind, +and am still unable either to read what I pen, or to venture abroad +without an attendant. When it is recollected, that I have been unassisted +in this work in any one particular, I hope some excuse will be found for +its imperfections. A wish to contribute to the public good led me to +undertake those journeys which have cost me so much. The same feeling +actuates me in recording their results; and I have the satisfaction to +know, that my path among a large and savage population was a bloodless +one; and that my intercourse with them was such as to lessen the danger to +future adventurers upon such hazardous enterprises, and to give them hope +where I had so often despaired. Something more powerful, than human +foresight or human prudence, appeared to avert the calamities and dangers +with which I and my companions were so frequently threatened; and had it +not been for the guidance and protection we received from the Providence +of that good and all-wise Being to whose care we committed ourselves, we +should, ere this, have ceased to rank among the number of His earthly +creatures. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + +Commencement of the expedition in November, 1829.--Joined by Mr. George +M'Leay--Appearance of the party--Breadalbane Plains--Hospitality of Mr. +O'Brien--Yass Plains--Hill of Pouni--Path of a hurricane--Character of the +country between Underaliga and the Morumbidgee--Appearance of that river-- +Junction of the Dumot with it--Crossing and recrossing--Geological +character and general aspect of the country--Plain of Pondebadgery--Few +natives seen. + + +The expedition which traversed the marshes of the Macquarie, left Sydney +on the 10th day of Nov. 1828. That destined to follow the waters of the +Morumbidgee, took its departure from the same capital on the 3rd of the +same month in the ensuing year. Rain had fallen in the interval, but not +in such quantities as to lead to the apprehension that it had either +influenced or swollen the western streams. It was rather expected that the +winter falls would facilitate the progress of the expedition, and it was +hoped that, as the field of its operations would in all probability be +considerably to the south of the parallel of Port Jackson, the extreme +heat to which the party and the animals had been exposed on the former +journey, would be less felt on the present occasion. + +As there was no Government establishment to the S.W. at which I could +effect any repairs, or recruit my supplies, as I had done at Wellington +Valley, the expedition, when it left Sydney, was completed in every +branch, and was so fully provided with every necessary implement and +comfort, as to render any further aid, even had such been attainable, in a +great measure unnecessary. The Governor had watched over my preparations +with a degree of anxiety that evidenced the interest he felt in the +expedition, and his arrangements to ensure, as far as practicable, our +being met on our return, in the event of our being in distress, were +equally provident and satisfactory. It was not, however, to the providing +for our wants in the interior alone that His Excellency's views were +directed, but orders were given to hold a vessel in readiness, to be +dispatched at a given time to St. Vincent's Gulf, in case we should +ultimately succeed in making the south coast in its neighbourhood. + +LEAVE SYDNEY. + +The morning on which I left Sydney a second time, under such doubtful +circumstances, was perfectly serene and clear. I found myself at 5 a.m. of +that delightful morning leading my horses through the gates of those +barracks whose precincts I might never again enter, and whose inmates I +might never again behold assembled in military array. Yet, although the +chance of misfortune flashed across my mind, I was never lighter at heart, +or more joyous in spirit. It appeared to me that the stillness and harmony +of nature influenced my feelings on the occasion, and my mind forgot the +storms of life, as nature at that moment seemed to have forgotten the +tempests that sometimes agitate her. + +APPEARANCE OF THE PARTY. + +I proceeded direct to the house of my friend Mr. J. Deas Thomson, who had +agreed to accompany me to Brownlow Hill, a property belonging to +Mr. M'Leay, the Colonial Secretary, where his son, Mr. George M'Leay, was +to join the expedition. As soon as we had taken a hasty breakfast, I went +to the carters' barracks to superintend the first loading of the animals. +Mr. Murray, the superintendent, had arranged every article so well, and +had loaded the drays so compactly that I had no trouble, and little time +was lost in saddling the pack animals. At a quarter before 7 the party +filed through the turnpike-gate, and thus commenced its journey with the +greatest regularity. I have the scene, even at this distance of time, +vividly impressed upon my mind, and I have no doubt the kind friend who +was near me on the occasion, bears it as strongly on his recollection. +My servant Harris, who had shared my wanderings and had continued in my +service for eighteen years, led the advance, with his companion Hopkinson. +Nearly abreast of them the eccentric Fraser stalked along wholly lost in +thought. The two former had laid aside their military habits, and had +substituted the broad brimmed hat and the bushman's dress in their place, +but it was impossible to guess how Fraser intended to protect himself from +the heat or the damp, so little were his habiliments suited for the +occasion. He had his gun over his shoulder, and his double shot belt as +full as it could be of shot, although there was not a chance of his +expending a grain during the day. Some dogs Mr. Maxwell had kindly sent me +followed close at his heels, as if they knew his interest in them, and +they really seemed as if they were aware that they were about to exchange +their late confinement for the freedom of the woods. The whole of these +formed a kind of advanced guard. At some distance in the rear the drays +moved slowly along, on one of which rode the black boy mentioned in my +former volume, and behind them followed the pack animals. Robert Harris, +whom I had appointed to superintend the animals generally, kept his place +near the horses, and the heavy Clayton, my carpenter, brought up the rear. +I shall not forget the interest Thomson appeared to take in a scene that +must certainly have been new to him. Our progress was not checked by the +occurrence of a single accident, nor did I think it necessary to remain +with the men after we had gained that turn which, at about four miles from +Sydney, branches off to the left, and leads direct to Liverpool. From this +Point my companion and I pushed forward, in order to terminate a fifty +miles' ride a little sooner than we should have done at the leisurely pace +we had kept during the early part of our journey. We remained in Liverpool +for a short time, to prepare the commissariat office for the reception, +and to ensure the accommodation, of the party; and reached Brownlow Hill +a little after sunset. + +LIVERPOOL-GOULBURN PLAINS. + +As I have already described the country on this line of road as far us +Goulburn Plains, it will not be considered necessary that I should again +notice its features with minuteness. + +WALLANDILLY-TYRANNA. + +The party arrived at Glendarewel, the farm attached to Brownlow Hill, on +the 5th. I resumed my journey alone on the 8th. M'Leay had still some few +arrangements to make, so that I dispensed with his immediate attendance. +He overtook me, however, sooner than I expected, on the banks of the +Wallandilly. I had encamped under the bluff end of Cookbundoon, and, +having been disappointed in getting bearings when crossing the Razor Back, +I hoped that I should be enabled to connect a triangle from the summit +of Cookbundoon, or to secure bearings of some prominent hill to the south. +I found the brush, however, so thick on the top of the mountain, that I +could obtain no satisfactory view, and and M'Leay, who accompanied me, +agreed with me in considering that we were but ill repaid for the hot +scramble we had had. Crossing the western extremity of Goulburn Plains on +the 15th, we encamped on a chain of ponds behind Doctor Gibson's residence +at Tyranna, and as I had some arrangements to make with that gentleman, +I determined to give both the men and animals a day's rest. I availed +myself of Doctor Gibson's magazines to replace such of my provisions as I +had expended, as I found that I could do so without putting him to any +inconvenience; and I added two of his men to the party, intending to send +them back, in case of necessity, or, when we should have arrived at that +point from which it might appear expedient to forward an account of my +progress and ultimate views, for the governor's information. + +On the 17th we struck the tents, and, crossing the chain of ponds near +which they had been pitched, entered a forest track, that gave place to +barren stony ridges of quartz formation. These continued for six or seven +miles, in the direction of Breadalbane Plains, upon which we were obliged +to stop, as we should have had some difficulty in procuring either water +or food, within any moderate distance beyond them. The water, indeed, that +we were obliged to content ourselves with was by no means good. +Breadalbane Plains are of inconsiderable extent, and are surrounded by +ridges, the appearance of which is not very promising. Large white masses +of quartz rock lie scattered over them, amongst trees of stunted growth. +Mr. Redall's farm was visible at the further extremity of the plains from +that by which we had entered them. It would appear that these plains are +connected with Goulburn Plains by a narrow valley, that was too wet for +the drays to have traversed. + +BREADALBANE PLAINS. + +Doctor Gibson had kindly accompanied us to Breadalbane Plains. On the +morning of the 18th he returned to Tyranna, and we pursued our journey, +keeping mostly on a W.S.W. course. From the barren hills over which we +passed, on leaving the plains, we descended upon an undulating country, +and found a change of rock, as well as of vegetation, upon it. Granite and +porphyry constituted its base. An open forest, on which the eucalyptus +mannifera alone prevailed, lay on either side of us, and although the soil +was coarse, and partook in a great measure of the decomposition of the +rock it covered, there was no deficiency of grass. On the contrary, this +part of the interior is decidedly well adapted for pasturing cattle. + +THE LORN. + +About 1 p.m. we passed Mr. Hume's station, with whom I remained for a +short time. He had fixed his establishment on the banks of the Lorn, a +small river, issuing from the broken country near Lake George, and now +ascertained to be one of the largest branches of the Lachlan River. We had +descended a barren pass of stringy bark scrub, on sandstone rock, a little +before we reached Mr. Hume's station, but around it the same, open forest +tract again prevailed. We crossed the Lorn, at 2 o'clock, leaving +Mr. Broughton's farm upon our left, and passed through a broken country, +which was very far from being deficient in pasture. We encamped on the +side of a water-course, about 4 o'clock, having travelled about fifteen +miles. + +On the 19th, we observed no change in the soil or aspect of the country, +for the first five miles. The eucalyptus mannifera was the most prevalent +of the forest trees, and certainly its presence indicated a more +flourishing state in the minor vegetation. At about five miles, however, +from where we had slept, sandstone reappeared, and with it the barren +scrub that usually grows upon a sandy and inhospitable soil. One of the +drays was upset in its progress down a broken pass, where the road had +been altogether neglected, and it was difficult to avoid accidents. +Fortunately we suffered no further than in the delay that the necessity of +unloading the dray, and reloading it, occasioned. Mr. O'Brien, an +enterprising settler, who had pushed his flocks to the banks of the +Morumbidgee, and who was proceeding to visit his several stations, +overtook us in the midst of our troubles. We had already passed each other +frequently on the road, but he now preceded me to his establishment at +Yass; at which I proposed remaining for a day. We stopped about three +miles short of the plains for the night, at the gorge of the pass through +which we had latterly been advancing, and had gradually descended to a +more open country. From the place at which we were temporarily delayed, +and which is not inappropriately called the Devil's Pass, the road winds +about between ranges, differing in every respect from any we had as yet +noticed. The sides of the hills were steeper, and their summits sharper, +than any we had crossed. They were thickly covered with eucalypti and +brush, and, though based upon sandstone, were themselves of a schistose +formation. + +YASS PLAINS. + +Yharr or Yass Plains were discovered by Mr. Hovel, and Mr. Hume, the +companion of my journey down the Macquarie, in 1828. They take their name +from the little river that flows along their north and north-west +boundaries. They are surrounded on every side by forests, and excepting to +the W.N.W., as a central point, by hill. Undulating, but naked themselves, +they have the appearance of open downs, and are most admirably adapted for +sheep-walks, not only in point of vegetation, but also, because their +inequalities prevent their becoming swampy during the rainy season. They +are from nine to twelve miles in length, and from five to seven in breadth, +and although large masses of sandstone are scattered over them, a blue +secondary limestone composes the general bed of the river, that was darker +in colour and more compact than I had remarked the same kind of rock, +either at Wellington Valley, or in the Shoal Haven Gully. I have no doubt +that Yass Plains will ere long be wholly taken up as sheep-walks, and that +their value to the grazier will in a great measure counterbalance its +distance from the coast, or, more properly speaking, from the capital. +Sheep I should imagine would thrive uncommonly well upon these plains, +and would suffer less from distempers incidental to locality and to +climate, than in many parts of the colony over which they are now +wandering in thousands. And if the plains themselves do not afford +extensive arable tracts, there is, at least, sufficient good land near the +river to supply the wants of a numerous body of settlers. + +HOSPITALITY OF MR. O'BRIEN. + +We left Mr. O'Brien's station on the morning of the 21st, and, agreeably +to his advice, determined on gaining the Morumbidgee, by a circuit to the +N.W., rather than endanger the safety of the drays by entering the +mountain passes to the westward. Mr. O'Brien, however, would not permit us +to depart from his dwelling without taking away with us some further +proofs of his hospitality. The party had pushed forward before I, or +Mr. M'Leay, had mounted our horses; but on overtaking it, we found that +eight fine wethers had been added to our stock of animals. + +HILL OF POUNI; ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY. + +To the W.N.W. of Yass Plains there is a remarkable hill, called Pouni, +remarkable not so much on account of its height, as of its commanding +position. It had, I believe, already been ascended by one of the +Surveyor-general's assistants. The impracticability of the country to the +south of it, obliged us to pass under its opposite base, from which an +open forest country extended to the northward. We had already recrossed +the Yass River, and passed Mr. Barber's station, to that of Mr. Hume's +father, at which we stopped for a short time. Both farms are well +situated, the latter I should say, romantically so, it being immediately +under Pouni, the hill we have noticed. The country around both was open, +and both pasture and water were abundant. + +Mr. O'Brien had been kind enough to send one of the natives who frequented +his station to escort us to his more advanced station upon the +Morumbidgee. Had it not been for the assistance we received from this man, +I should have had but little leisure for other duties: as it was however, +there was no fear of the party going astray. This gave M'Leay and myself +an opportunity of ascending Pouni, for the purpose of taking bearings; and +how ever warm the exertion of the ascent made us, the view from the summit +of the hill sufficiently repaid us, and the cool breeze that struck it, +although imperceptible in the forest below, soon dried the perspiration +from our brows. The scenery around us was certainly varied, yet many +parts of it put me forcibly in mind of the dark and gloomy tracks over +which my eye had wandered from similar elevations on the former journey. +This was especially the case in looking to the north, towards which point +the hills forming the right of the valley by which we had entered the +plains, decreased so rapidly in height that they were lost in the general +equality of the more remote country, almost ere they had reached abreast +of my position. From E.S.E. to W.S.W. the face of the country was hilly, +broken and irregular; forming deep ravines and precipitous glens, amid +which I was well aware the Morumbidgee was still struggling for freedom; +while mountains succeeded mountains in the back-ground, and were +themselves overtopped by lofty and very distant peaks. To the eastward, +however, the hills wore a more regular form, and were lightly covered with +wood. The plains occupied the space between them and Pouni; and a smaller +plain bore N.N.E. which, being embosomed in the forest, had hitherto +escaped our notice. + +We overtook the party just as it cleared the open ground through which it +had previously been moving. A barren scrub succeeded it for about eight +miles. The soil in this scrub was light and sandy. + +We stopped for the night at the head of a valley that seemed to have been +well trodden by cattle. The feed, therefore, was not abundant, nor was the +water good. We had, however, made a very fair journey, and I was unwilling +to press the animals. But in consequence, I fancy, of the scarcity of +food, they managed to creep away during the night, with the exception of +three or four of the bullocks, nor should we have collected them again so +soon as we did, or without infinite trouble, had it not been for our guide +and my black boy. We unavoidably lost a day, but left our position on the +23rd, for Underaliga, a station occupied by Doctor Harris, the gentleman I +have already had occasion to mention. We reached the banks of the creek +near the stock hut, about 4 p.m., having journeyed during the greater part +of the day through a poor country, partly of scrub and partly of open +forest-land, in neither of which was the soil or vegetation fresh or +abundant. At about three miles from Underaliga, the country entirely +changed its character, and its flatness was succeeded by a broken and +undulating surface. The soil upon the hills was coarse and sandy, from the +decomposition of the granite rock that constituted their base. +Nevertheless, the grass was abundant on the hills, though the roots or +tufts were far apart; and the hills were lightly studded with trees. + +COURSE OF A HURRICANE. + +In the course of the day we crossed the line of a hurricane that had just +swept with resistless force over the country, preserving a due north +course, and which we had heard from a distance, fortunately too great to +admit of its injuring us. It had opened a fearful gap in the forest +through which it had passed, of about a quarter of a mile in breadth. +Within that space, no tree had been able to withstand its fury, for it had +wrenched every bough from such as it had failed to prostrate, and they +stood naked in the midst of the surrounding wreck. I am inclined to think +that the rudeness of nature itself in these wild and uninhabited regions, +gives birth to these terrific phenomena. They have never occurred, so far +as I know, in the located districts. Our guide deserted us in the early +part of the day without assigning any reason for doing so. He went off +without being noticed, and thus lost the reward that would have been +bestowed on him had he mentioned his wish to return to Yass. I the more +regretted his having sneaked off, because he had had the kindness to put +us on a track we could not well lose. + +COUNTRY FROM UNDERALIGA TO MORUMBIDGEE. + +Underaliga, is said to be thirty miles from the Morumbidgee. The country +between the two has a sameness of character throughout. It is broken and +irregular, yet no one hill rises conspicuously over the rest. We found +ourselves at one time on their summits beside huge masses of granite, at +others crossing valleys of rich soil and green appearance. A country under +cultivation is so widely different from one the sod of which has never +been broken by the plough, that it is difficult and hazardous to form a +decided opinion on the latter. If you ask a stockman what kind of a +country lies, either to his right, or to his left, he is sure to condemn +it, unless it will afford the most abundant pasture. Accustomed to roam +about from one place to another, these men despise any but the richest +tracts, and include the rest of the neighbourhood in one sweeping clause +of condemnation. Thus I was led to expect, that we should pass over a +country of the very worst description, between Underaliga and the +Morumbidgee. Had it been similar to that midway between Yass and +Underaliga, we should, in truth, have found it so; but it struck me, that +there were many rich tracts of ground among the valleys of the former, and +that the very hills had a fair covering of grass upon them. What though +the soil was coarse, if the vegetation was good and sufficient? Perhaps +the greatest drawback to this part of the interior is the want of water; +yet we crossed several creeks, and remarked some deep water holes, that +can never be exhausted, even in the driest season. Wherever the situation +favoured our obtaining a view of the country on either side of us, while +among these hills, we found that to the eastward lofty and mountainous; +whilst that to the westward, had the appearance of fast sinking into +a level. + +JUGGIONG. + +A short time before we reached the Morumbidgee, we forded a creek, which +we crossed a second time where it falls into the river. After crossing it +the first time we opened a flat, on which the marks of sheep were +abundant. In the distance there was a small hill, and on its top a bark +hut. We were not until then aware of our being so near the river, but as +Mr. O'Brien had informed me that he had a station for sheep, at a place +called Juggiong, by the natives, on the immediate banks of the river, I +did not doubt that we had, at length, arrived at it. And so it proved. I +went to the hut, to ascertain where I could conveniently stop for the +night, but the residents were absent. I could not but admire the position +they had taken up. The hill upon which their hut was erected was not more +than fifty feet high, but it immediately overlooked the river, and +commanded not only the flat we had traversed in approaching it, but also a +second flat on the opposite side. The Morumbidgee came down to the foot of +this little hill from the south, and, of course, running to the north, +which latter direction it suddenly takes up from a previous S.W. one, on +meeting some hills that check its direct course. From the hill on which +the hut stands, it runs away westward, almost in a direct line, for three +miles, so that the position commands a view of both the reaches, which are +overhung by the casuarina and flooded-gum. Rich alluvial flats lie to the +right of the stream, backed by moderate hills, that were lightly studded +with trees, and clothed with verdure to their summits. Some moderate +elevations also backed a flat, on the left bank of the river, but the +colour of the soil upon the latter, as well as its depressed situation, +showed clearly that it was subject to flood, and had received the worst of +the depositions from the mountains. The hills behind it were also bare, +and of a light red colour, betraying, as I imagined, a distinct formation +from, and poorer character than, the hills behind us. At about three miles +the river again suddenly changes its direction from west to south, for +about a mile, when it inclines to the S.E. until it nearly encircles the +opposite hills, when it assumes its proper direction, and flows away to +the S.W. + +CROSS THE UNDERALIGA; REACH THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +We crossed the Underaliga creek a little below the stock hut, and encamped +about a mile beyond it, in the centre of a long plain. We were surrounded +on every side by hills, from which there was no visible outlet, as they +appeared to follow the bend of the river, with an even and unbroken +outline. The scenery around us was wild, romantic, and beautiful; as +beautiful as a rich and glowing sunset in the most delightful climate +under the heavens could make it. I had been more anxious to gain the banks +of the Morumbidgee on this occasion, than I had been on a former one to +gain those of the Macquarie, for although I could not hope to see the +Morumbidgee all that it had been described to me, yet I felt that on its +first appearance I should in some measure ground my anticipations of +ultimate success. When I arrived on the banks of the Macquarie, it had +almost ceased to flow, and its current was so gentle as to be scarcely +perceptible. Instead, however, of a river in such a state of exhaustion, +I now looked down upon a stream, whose current it would have been +difficult to breast, and whose waters, foaming among rocks, or circling in +eddies, gave early promise of a reckless course. It must have been +somewhat below its ordinary level, and averaged a breadth of about 80 +feet. Its waters were hard and transparent, and its bed was composed of +mountain debris, and large fragments of rock. As soon as the morning +dawned, the tents were struck and we pursued our journey. We followed the +line of the river, until we found ourselves in a deep bight to the S.E. +The hills that had been gradually closing in upon the river, now +approached it so nearly, that there was no room for the passage of the +drays. We were consequently obliged to turn back, and, moving along the +base of the ranges, by which we were thus apparently enclosed, we at +length found a steep pass, the extreme narrowness of which had hidden it +from our observation. By this pass we were now enabled to effect our +escape. On gaining the summit of the hills, we travelled south for three +or four miles, through open forests, and on level ground. But we +ultimately descended into a valley in which we halted for the night. On a +closer examination of the neighbourhood, it appeared that our position was +at the immediate junction of two valleys, where, uniting the waters of +their respective creeks, the main branch declines rapidly towards the +river. One of these valleys extended to to the S.W., the other to the +W.N.W. It was evident to us that our route lay up the former; and I made +no doubt we should easily reach Whaby's station on the morrow. + +ADJACENT COUNTRY. + +We were now far beyond the acknowledged limits of the located parts of the +colony, and Mr. Whaby's station was the last at which we could expect even +the casual supply of milk or other trifling relief. Yet, although the +prospect of so soon leaving even the outskirts of civilization, and being +wholly thrown on our own resources, was so near, it never for a moment +weighed upon the minds of the men. The novelty of the scenery, and the +beauty of the river on which they were journeying, excited in them the +liveliest anticipations of success. The facility with which we had +hitherto pushed forward blinded them to future difficulties, nor could +there be a more cheerful spectacle than that which the camp daily +afforded. The animals browzing in the distance, and the men talking over +their pipes of the probable adventures they might encounter. The loads +had by this time settled properly, and our provisions proved of the very +best quality, so that no possible improvement could have been made for the +better. + +WHABY'S STATION. + +On the morrow we pushed up the southernmost of the valleys, at the +junction of which we had encamped, having moderate hills on either side of +us. At the head of the valley we crossed a small dividing range into +another valley, and halted for the night, on the banks of a creek from the +westward, as we found it impossible to reach Whaby's station, as we had +intended, before sunset. Nothing could exceed the luxuriance of the +vegetation in this valley, but the water of the creek was so impregnated +with iron, as to be almost useless. Being anxious to obtain a view of the +surrounding country, I ascended a hill behind the camp, just as the sun +was sinking, a time the most favourable for the object I had in view. The +country, broken into hill and dale, seemed richer than any tract I had as +yet surveyed; and the beauty of the near landscape was greatly +heightened by the mountainous scenery to the S. and S.E. Both the +laxmania, and zanthorea were growing around me; but neither appeared to be +in congenial soil. The face of the hill was very stony, and I found, on +examination, that a great change had taken place in the rock-formation, +the granite ranges having given place to chlorite schist. + +We reached Whaby's about 9 a.m. of the morning of the 27th, and received +every attention and civility from him. The valley in which we had slept +opened upon an extensive plain, to the eastward of which the Morumbidgee +formed the extreme boundary; and it was in a bight, and on ground rather +elevated above the plain, that he had fixed his residence. He informed +me that we should have to cross the river, as its banks were too +precipitous, and the ranges too abrupt, to admit of our keeping the right +side; and recommended me to examine and fix upon a spot at which to cross, +before I again moved forward, expressing his readiness to accompany me as +a guide. We accordingly rode down the river, to a place at which some +stockman had effected a passage,--after a week's labour in hewing out a +canoe. I by no means intended that a similar delay should occur in our +case, but I saw no objection to our crossing at the same place; since its +depth, and consequent tranquillity, rendered it eligible enough for that +purpose. + +THE RIVER DUMOT. + +The Dumot river, another mountain stream, joins the Morumbidgee opposite +to Mr. Whaby's residence. It is little inferior to the latter either in +size or in the rapidity of its current, and, if I may rely on the +information I received, waters a finer country, the principal +rock-formation upon it being of limestone and whinstone. It rises amidst +the snowy ranges to the S.E., and its banks are better peopled than those +of the stream into which it discharges itself. Of course, such a tributary +enlarges the Morumbidgee considerably: indeed, the fact is sufficiently +evident from the appearance of the latter below the junction. + +During our ride with Whaby down its banks, we saw nothing but the richest +flats, almost entirely clear of timber and containing from 400 to 700 +acres, backed by ranges that were but partially wooded, and were clothed +with verdure to their very summits. The herds that were scattered over the +first were almost lost in the height of the vegetation, and the ranges +served as natural barriers to prevent them from straying away. + +CROSS AND RE-CROSS THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +On the following morning, we started for the place at which it had been +arranged that we should cross the Morumbidgee, but, though no more than +five miles in a direct line from Whaby's house, in consequence of the +irregularity of the ground, the drays did not reach it before noon. The +weight and quantity of our stores being taken into consideration, the task +we had before us was not a light one. Such, however, was the industry of +the men, that before it became dark the whole of them, including the drays +and sheep, were safely deposited on the opposite bank. We were enabled to +be thus expeditious, by means of a punt that we made with the tarpaulins +on an oblong frame. As soon as it was finished, a rope was conveyed across +the river, and secured to a tree, and a running cord being then fastened +to the punt, a temporary ferry was established, and the removal of our +stores rendered comparatively easy. M'Leay undertook to drive the horses +and cattle over a ford below us, but he did not calculate on the stubborn +disposition of the latter, and, consequently, experienced some difficulty, +and was well nigh swept away by the current. So great was his difficulty, +that he was obliged to land, to his great discomfiture, amidst a grove of +lofty nettles. Mulholland, who accompanied him, and who happened to be +naked, was severly stung by them. The labour of the day was, however, +satisfactorily concluded, and we lay down to rest with feelings of entire +satisfaction. + +A great part of the following day was consumed in reloading, nor did we +pursue our journey until after two o'clock. We then passed over tracks on +the left of the river of the same rich description that existed on its +right; they were much intersected by creeks, but were clear of timber, +and entirely out of the reach of floods. At about seven miles from where +we started, we found ourselves checked by precipitous rocks jutting into +the stream, and were obliged once more to make preparations for crossing +it. Instead of a deep and quiet reach, however, the Morumbidgee here +expanded into a fretful rapid; but it was sufficiently shallow to admit of +our taking the drays over, without the trouble of unloading them. There +was still, however, some labour required in cutting down the banks, and +the men were fully occupied until after sunset; and so well did they work, +that an hour's exertion in the morning enabled us to make the passage with +safety. On ascending the right bank, we found that we had to force +through a dense body of reeds, covering some flooded land, at the base of +a range terminating upon the river; and we were obliged, in order to +extricate ourselves from our embarrassments, to pass to the N.W. of the +point, and to cross a low part of the range. This done, we met with no +further interruptions during the day, but travelled along rich and clear +flats to a deep bight below an angle of the river called Nangaar by the +natives; where we pitched our camp, and our animals revelled amid the most +luxuriant pasture. Only in one place did the sandy superficies upon the +plain indicate that it was there subject to flood. + +The Morumbidgee from Juggiong to our present encampment had held a general +S.S.W. course, but from the summit of a hill behind the tents it now +appeared to be gradually sweeping round to the westward; and I could trace +the line of trees upon its banks, through a rich and extensive valley in +that direction, as far as my sight could reach. The country to the S.E. +maintained its lofty character, but to the westward the hills and ranges +were evidently decreasing in height, and the distant interior seemed fast +sinking to a level. The general direction of the ranges had been from N. +to S., and as we had been travelling parallel to them, their valleys were +shut from our view. Now, however, several rich and extensive ones became +visible, opening from the southward into the valley of the Morumbidgee, +and, as a further evidence of a change of country from a confused to a +more open one, a plain of considerable size stretched from immediately +beneath the hill on which I was to the N.W. + +GEOLOGY OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. + +The Morumbidgee itself, from the length and regularity of its reaches, as +well as from its increased size, seemed to intimate that it had +successfully struggled through the broken country in which it rises, and +that it would henceforward meet with fewer interruptions to its course. It +still, however, preserved all the characters of a mountain stream; having +alternate rapids and deep pools, being in many places encumbered with +fallen timber, and generally running over a shingly bed, composed of +rounded fragments of every rock of which the neighbouring ranges were +formed, and many others that had been swept by the torrents down it. The +rock formation of the hills upon its right continued of that chlorite +schist which prevailed near Mr. Whaby's, which I have already noticed, and +quartz still appeared in large masses, on the loftier ranges opposite, so +that the geology of the neighbourhood could not be said to have undergone +any material change. It might, however, be considered an extraordinary +feature in it, that a small hill of blue limestone existed upon the left +bank of the river. The last place at which we had seen limestone was at +Yass, but I had learned from Mr. Whaby, that, together with whinstone, it +was abundant near a Mr. Rose's station on the Dumot, that was not at any +great distance. The irregularity, however, of the intervening country, +made the appearance of this solitary rock more singular. + +Although the fires of the natives had been frequent upon the river, none +had, as yet, ventured to approach us, in consequence of some +misunderstanding that had taken place between them and Mr. Stuckey's +stockmen. Mr. Roberts' stockmen [these men had lately fixed themselves +on the river a little below Mr. Whaby's], however, brought a man and a boy +to us at this place in the afternoon, but I could not persuade them to +accompany us on our journey--neither could I, although my native boy +understood them perfectly, gain any particular information from them. + +In consequence of rain, we did not strike the tents so early as usual. +At 7 a.m. a heavy thunder storm occurred from the N.W. after which the +sky cleared, and we were enabled to push forward at 11 a.m., moving on a +general W.N.W, course, over rich flats, which, having been moistened by +the morning's showers, showed the dark colour of the rich earth of which +they were composed. Some sand-hills were, however, observed near the +river, of about fifteen feet in elevation, crowned by banksias; and the +soil of the flats had a very partial mixture of sand in it. How these +sand-hills could have been formed it is difficult to say; but they +produced little minor vegetation, and were as pure as the sand of the +sea-shore. Some considerable plains were noticed to our right, in +appearance not inferior to the ground on which we were journeying. At noon +we rose gradually from the level of these plains, and travelled along the +side of a hill, until we got to a small creek, at which we stopped, though +more than a mile and a half from the river. The clouds had been gathering +again in the N.W. quarter, and we had scarcely time to secure our flour, +when a second storm burst upon us, and it continued to rain violently for +the remainder of the day. + +BEAUTIFUL PROSPECT. + +From a small hill that lay to our left Mr. M'Leay and I enjoyed a most +beautiful view. Beneath us to the S. E. the rich and lightly timbered +valley through which the Morumbidgee flows, extended, and parts of the +river were visible through the dark masses of swamp-oak by which it was +lined, or glittering among the flooded-gum trees, that grew in its +vicinity. In the distance was an extensive valley that wound between +successive mountain ranges. More to the eastward, both mountain and +woodland bore a dark and gloomy shade, probably in consequence of the +light upon them at the time. Those lofty peaks that had borne nearly +south of us from Pouni, near Yass, now rose over the last-mentioned +ranges, and by their appearance seemed evidently to belong to a high and +rugged chain. To the westward, the decline of country was more observable +than ever; and the hills on both sides of the river, were lower and more +distant from it. Those upon which we found ourselves were composed of +iron-stone, were precipitous towards the river in many places, of sandy +soil, and were crowned with beef-wood as well as box. The change in the +rock-formation and in the soil, produced a corresponding change in the +vegetation. The timber was not so large as it had been, neither did the +hills any longer bear the green appearance which had distinguished those +we had passed to their very summits. The grass here grew in tufts amidst +the sand, and was of a burnt appearance as if it had suffered from +drought. + +NATIVES--THEIR SUFFERING FROM COLD. + +Some natives had joined us in the morning, and acted as our guides; or it +is more than probable that we should have continued our course along the +river, and got enbarrassed among impediments that were visible from our +elevated position; for it was evident that the range we had ascended +terminated in an abrupt precipice on the river, that we could not have +passed. The blacks suffered beyond what I could have imagined, from cold, +and seemed as incapable of enduring it as if they had experienced the +rigour of a northern snow storm. + +The morning of the 2nd December was cloudy and lowering, and the wind +still hung in the N.W. There was truly every appearance of bad weather, +but our anxiety to proceed on our journey overcame our apprehensions, +and the animals were loaded and moved off at 7 a.m. The rain which had +fallen the evening previous, rendered travelling heavy; so that we got on +but slowly. At 11, the clouds burst, and continued to pour down for the +rest of the day. On leaving the creek we crossed the spine of the range, +and descending from it into a valley, that continued to the river on the +one hand, and stretched away to the N.W. on the other, we ascended some +hills opposite to us, and moved generally through open, undulating forest +ground, affording good pasturage. + +SMOKING AN OPOSSUM. + +One of the blacks being anxious to get an opossum out of a dead tree, +every branch of which was hollow, asked for a tomahawk, with which be cut +a hole in the trunk above where he thought the animal lay concealed. He +found however, that he had cut too low, and that it had run higher up. +This made it necessary to smoke it out; he accordingly got some dry grass, +and having kindled a fire, stuffed it into the hole he had cut. A raging +fire soon kindled in the tree, where the draft was great, and dense +columns of smoke issued from the end of each branch as thick as that from +the chimney of a steam engine. The shell of the tree was so thin that I +thought it would soon be burnt through, and that the tree would fall; but +the black had no such fears, and, ascending to the highest branch, he +watched anxiously for the poor little wretch he had thus surrounded with +dangers and devoted to destruction; and no sooner did it appear, half +singed and half roasted, than he seized upon it and threw it down to +us with an air of triumph. The effect of the scene in so lonely a forest, +was very fine. The roaring of the fire in the tree, the fearless attitude +of the savage, and the associations which his colour and appearance, +enveloped as he was in smoke, called up, were singular, and still dwell +on my recollection. We had not long left the tree, when it fell with a +tremendous crash, and was, when we next passed that way, a mere heap of +ashes. + +ACCIDENTS. + +Shortly before it commenced raining, the dogs started an emu, and took +after it, followed by M'Leay and myself. We failed in killing it, and I +was unfortunate enough to lose a most excellent watch upon the occasion, +which in regularity was superior to the chronometer I had with me. + +As there was no hope of the weather clearing up, I sent M'Leay and one of +the blacks with the flour to the river, with directions to pile it up and +cover it with tarpaulins, as soon as possible, remaining myself to bring +up the drays. It was not, however, until after 4 p.m. that we gained the +river-side, or that we were enabled to get into shelter. Fraser met with a +sad accident while assisting the driver of the teams, who, accidentally, +struck him with the end of the lash of his whip in the eye, and cut the +lower lid in two. The poor fellow fell to the ground as if he had been +shot, and really, from the report of the whip, I was at first uncertain +of the nature of the accident. + +PONDEBADGERY. + +We had gradually ascended some hills; and as the sweep of the valley led +southerly, we continued along it until we got to its very head; then, +crossing the ridge we descended the opposite side, towards a beautiful +plain, on the further extremity of which the river line was marked by the +dark-leafed casuarina. In spite of the badness of the weather and the +misfortunes of the day, I could not but admire the beauty of the scene. +We were obliged to remain stationary the following day, in consequence +of one of the drays being out of repair, and requiring a new axle-tree. +I could hardly regret the necessity that kept us in so delightful a spot. +This plain, which the natives called Pondebadgery, and in which a station +has since been formed, is about two miles in breadth, by about three and +a-half in length. It is surrounded apparently on every side by hills. The +river running E. and W. forms its southern boundary. The hills by which we +had entered it, terminating abruptly on the river to the north-east, form +a semi-circle round it to the N.N.W. where a valley, the end of which +cannot be seen, runs to the north-west, of about half a mile in breadth. +On the opposite side of the river moderate hills rise over each other, and +leave little space between them and its banks. The Morumbidgee itself, +with an increased breadth, averaging from seventy to eighty yards, +presents a still, deep sheet of water to the view, over which the +casuarina bends with all the grace of the willow, or the birch, but with +more sombre foliage. To the west, a high line of flooded-gum trees +extending from the river to the base of the hills which form the west side +of the valley before noticed, hides the near elevations, and thus shuts in +the whole space. The soil of the plain is of the richest description, and +the hills backing it, together with the valley, are capable of depasturing +the most extensive flocks. + +Such is the general landscape from the centre of Pondebadgery Plain. +Behind the line of gum-trees, the river suddenly sweeps away to the south, +and forms a deep bight of seven miles, when, bearing up again to the N.W. +it meets some hills about 10 miles to the W.N.W. of the plain, thus +encircling a still more extensive space, that for richness of soil, and +for abundance of pasture, can nowhere be excelled; such, though on a +smaller scale, are all the flats that adorn the banks of the Morumbidgee, +first on one side and then on the other, as the hills close in upon them, +from Juggiong to Pondebadgery. + +TRAVELLING DOWN THE RIVER. + +It is deeply to be regretted that this noble river should exist at such a +distance from the capital as to be unavailable. During our stay on the +Pondebadgery Plain, the men caught a number of codfish, as they are +generally termed, but which are, in reality, a species of perch. The +largest weighed 401b. but the majority of the others were small, not +exceeding from six to eight. M'Leay and I walked to the N.W. extremity of +the plain, in order to ascertain how we should debouche from it, and to +get, if possible, a view of the western interior. We took with us two +blacks who had attached themselves to the party, and had made themselves +generally useful. On ascending the most westerly of the hills, we found it +composed of micaceous schist, the upper coat of which was extremely soft, +and broke with a slaty fracture, or crumbled into a sparkling dust beneath +our feet. The summit of the hill was barren, and beef-wood alone grew on +it. The valley, of which it was the western boundary, ran up northerly for +two or three miles, with all the appearance of richness and verdure. To +the south extended the flat I have noticed, more heavily timbered than we +had usually found them, bounded, or backed rather, by a hilly country, +although one fast losing in its general height. To the W.N.W. there was a +moderate range of hills on the opposite side of an extensive valley, +running up northerly, from which a lateral branch swept round to the +W.N.W. with a gradual ascent into the hills, which bore the same +appearance of open forest, grazing land, as prevailed in similar tracts to +the eastward. The blacks pointed out to us our route up the valley, and +stated that we should get on the banks of the river again in a direction +W. by N. from the place on which we stood. We accordingly crossed the +principal valley on the following morning, and gradually ascended the +opposite line of hills. They terminate to the S.E. in lofty precipices, +overlooking the river flats, and having a deep chain of ponds under them. +The descent towards the river was abrupt, and we encamped upon its banks, +with a more confined view than any we had ever had before. There was an +evident change in the river; the banks were reedy, the channel deep and +muddy, and the neighbourhood bore more the appearance of being subject to +overflow than it had done in any one place we had passed over. The hills +were much lower, and as we gained the southern brow of that under which we +encamped, we could see a level and wooded country to the westward. The +line of the horizon was unbroken by any hills in the distance, and the +nearer ones seemed gradually to lose themselves in the darkness of the +landscape. + +The two natives, whom the stockmen had named Peter and Jemmie, were of +infinite service to us, from their knowledge of all the passes, and the +general features of the country. Having, however, seen us thus far on the +journey from their usual haunts, they became anxious to return, and it was +with some difficulty we persuaded them to accompany us for a few days +longer, in hopes of reward. The weather had been cool and pleasant; the +thermometer averaging 78 of Fahrenheit at noon, in consequences of which +the animals kept in good condition, the men healthy and zealous. The sheep +Mr. O'Brien had presented to us, gave no additional trouble; they followed +in the rear of the party without attempting to wander, and were secured at +night in a small pen or fold. No waste attended their slaughter, nor did +they lose in condition, from being driven from ten to fifteen miles daily, +so much as I had been led to suppose they would have done. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + +Character of the Morumbidgee where it issues from the hilly country-- +Appearance of approach to swamps--Hamilton Plains--Intercourse with the +natives--Their appearance, customs, &c.--Change in the character of the +river--Mirage--Dreariness of the country--Ride towards the Lachlan river +--Two boats built and launched on the Morumbidgee; and the drays, with +part of the men sent back to Goulburn Plains. + +NATIVES--WILD GAME,&c.; CHARACTER OF THE RIVER AND THE ADJOINING COUNTRY. + +From our camp, the Morumbidgee held a direct westerly course for about +three miles. The hills under which we had encamped, rose so close upon our +right as to leave little space between them and the river. At the distance +of three miles, however, they suddenly terminated, and the river changed +its direction to the S.W., while a chain of ponds extended to the +westward, and separated the alluvial flats from a somewhat more elevated +plain before us. We kept these ponds upon our left for some time, but, as +they ultimately followed the bend of the river, we left them. The blacks +led us on a W. by S. course to the base of a small range two or three +miles distant, near which there was a deep lagoon. It was evident they +here expected to have found some other natives. Being disappointed, +however, they turned in towards the river again, but we stopped short of +it on the side of a serpentine sheet of water, an apparent continuation of +the chain of ponds we had left behind us, forming a kind of ditch round +the S.W. extremity of the range, parallel to which we had continued to +travel. This range, which had been gradually decreasing in height from the +lagoon, above which it rose perpendicularly, might almost be said to +terminate here. We fell in with two or three natives before we halted, but +the evident want of population in so fine a country, and on so noble a +river, surprised me extremely. We saw several red kangaroos in the course +of the day, and succeeded in killing one. It certainly is a beautiful +animal, ranging the wilds in native freedom. The female and the kid are of +a light mouse-colour. Wild turkeys abound on this part of the Morumbidgee, +but with the exception of a few terns, which are found hovering over the +lagoons, no new birds had as yet been procured; and the only plant that +enriched our collection, was an unknown metrosideros. In crossing the +extremity of the range, the wheels of the dray sunk deep into a yielding +and coarse sandy soil, of decomposed granite, on which forest-grass +prevailed in tufts, which, being far apart, made the ground uneven, and +caused the animals to trip. We rose at one time sufficiently high to +obtain an extensive view, and had our opinions confirmed as to the level +nature of the country we were so rapidly approaching. From the N. to +the W.S.W. the eye wandered over a wooded and unbroken interior, if I +except a solitary double hill that rose in the midst of it, bearing +S. 82 degrees W. distant 12 miles, and another singular elevation that +bore S. 32 degrees W. called by the natives, Kengal. The appearance to the +E.S.E. was still that of a mountainous country, while from the N.E., the +hills gradually decrease in height, until lost in the darkness of +surrounding objects to the northward. We did not travel this day more than +13 miles on a W. by N. course. The Morumbidgee, where we struck it, by its +increased size, kept alive our anticipations of its ultimately leading us +to some important point. The partial rains that had fallen while we were +on its upper branch, had swollen it considerably, and it now rolled along +a vast body of water at the rate of three miles an hour, preserving a +medium width of 150 feet; its banks retaining a height far above the usual +level of the stream. A traveller who had never before descended into the +interior of New Holland, would have spurned the idea of such a river +terminating in marshes; but with the experience of the former journey, +strong as hope was within my breast, I still feared it might lose itself +in the vast flat upon which we could scarcely be said to have yet entered. +The country was indeed taking up more and more every day the features of +the N.W. interior. Cypresses were observed upon the minor ridges, and the +soil near the river, although still rich, and certainly more extensive +than above, was occasionally mixed with sand, and scattered over with the +claws of crayfish and shells, indicating its greater liability to be +flooded; nor indeed could I entertain a doubt that the river had laid a +great part of the levels around us under water long after it found that +channel in which nature intended ultimately to confine it. We killed +another fine red kangaroo in the early part of the day, in galloping after +which I got a heavy fall. + +The two blacks who had been with us so long, and who had not only exerted +themselves to assist us, but had contributed in no small degree to our +amusement, though they had from M'Leay's liberality, tasted all the +dainties with which we had provided ourselves, from sugar to concentrated +cayenne, intimated that they could no longer accompany the party. They had +probably got to the extremity of their beat, and dared not venture any +further. They left us with evident regret, receiving, on their departure, +several valuable presents, in the shape of tomahawks &c. The last thing +they did was to point out the way to us, and to promise to join us on our +return, although they evidently little anticipated ever seeing us again. + +In pursuing our journey, we entered a forest, consisting of box-trees, +casuarinae, and cypresses, on a light sandy soil, in which both horses and +bullocks sunk so deep that their labour was greatly increased, more +especially as the weather had become much warmer. At noon I altered my +course from N.W. by W. to W.N.W., and reached the Morumbidgee at 3 in the +afternoon. The flats bordering it were extensive and rich, and, being +partially mixed with sand, were more fitted for agricultural purposes than +the stiffer and purer soil amidst the mountains; but the interior beyond +them was far from being of corresponding quality. We crossed several +plains on which vegetation was scanty, probably owing to the hardness of +the soil, which was a stiff loamy clay, and which must check the growth of +plants, by preventing the roots from striking freely into it. The river +where we stopped for the night appeared to have risen considerably, and +the fish were rolling about on the surface of the water with a noise like +porpoises. No elevations were visible, so that I had not an opportunity of +continuing the chain of survey with the points I had previously taken. + +TRAVELLING DOWN THE RIVER. + +As we proceeded down the river on the 8th, the flats became still more +extensive than they had ever been, and might almost be denominated plains. +Vegetation was scanty upon them, although the soil was of the first +quality. About nine miles from our camp, we struck on a small isolated +hill, that could scarcely have been of 200 feet elevation; yet, depressed +as it was, the view from its summit was very extensive, and I was +surprised to find that we were still in some measure surrounded by high +lands, of which I took the following bearings, connected with the present +ones. + +A High Peak.....N. 66 E. distance 40 miles. +Kengal ........ N. 110 E. distant. +Double Hill ... S. 10 W. distant. + +To the north, there were several fires burning, which appeared rather the +fires of natives, than conflagrations, and as the river had made a bend to +the N.N.W., I doubted not that they were upon its banks. From this hill, +which was of compact granite, we struck away to the W.N.W., and shortly +afterwards crossed some remarkable sand-hills. Figuratively speaking, they +appeared like islands amidst the alluvial deposits, and were as pure in +their composition as the sand on the sea-shore. They were generally +covered with forest grass, in tufts, and a coarse kind of rushes, under +banksias and cypresses. We found a small fire on the banks of the river, +and close to it the couch and hut of a solitary native, who had probably +seen us approach, and had fled. There cannot be many inhabitants +hereabouts, since there are no paths to indicate that they frequent this +part of the Morumbidgee more at one season than another. + +On the 9th, the river fell off again to the westward, and we lost a good +deal of the northing we had made the day before. We journeyed pretty +nearly equidistant from the stream, and kept altogether on the alluvial +flats. As we were wandering along the banks of the river, a black started +up before us, and swam across to the opposite side, where he immediately +hid himself. We could by no means induce him to show himself; he was +probably the lonely being whom we had scared away from the fire the day +before. In the afternoon, however we surprised a family of six natives, +and persuaded them to follow us to our halting place. My boy understood +them well; but the young savage had the cunning to hide the information +they gave him, or, for aught I know, to ask questions that best suited his +own purposes, and therefore we gained little intelligence from them. + +Every day now produced some change in the face of the country, by which it +became more and more assimilated to that I had traversed during the first +expedition. Acacia pendula now made its appearance on several plains +beyond the river deposits, as well as that salsolaceous class of plants, +among which the schlerolina and rhagodia are so remarkable. The natives +left us at sunset, but returned early in the morning with an extremely +facetious and good-humoured old man, who volunteered to act as our guide +without the least hesitation. There was a cheerfulness in his manner, +that gained our confidence at once, and rendered him a general favourite. +He went in front with the dogs, and led us a little away from the river +to kill kangaroos, as he said. At about two miles we struck on an +inconsiderable elevation, which the party crossed at the S.W. extremity. +I ascended it at the opposite end, but although the view was extensive, I +could not make out the little hill of granite from which I had taken my +former bearings, and the only elevation I could recognise as connected +with them, was one about ten miles distant, bearing S. 168 W. I could +observe very distant ranges to the E.N.E. and immediately below me in that +direction, there was a large clear plain, skirted by acacia pendula, +stretching from S.S.E. to N.N.W. The crown and ridges of the hill on which +I stood, were barren, stony, and covered with beef-wood, +the rock-formation being a coarse granite. The drays had got so far ahead +of me that I did not overtake them before they had halted on the river at +a distance of ten miles. + +INFORMATION FROM A NATIVE. + +The Morumbidgee appeared, on examination, to have increased in breadth, +and continued to rise gradually. It is certainly a noble stream, very +different from those I had already traced to their termination. The old +black informed me that there was another large river flowing to the +southward of west, to which the Morumbidgee was as a creek, and that we +could gain it in four days. He stated that its waters were good, but that +its banks were not peopled. That such a feature existed where he laid it +down, I thought extremely probable, because it was only natural to expect +that other streams descended from the mountains in the S.E. of the island, +as well as that on which we were travelling. The question was, whether +either of them held on an uninterrupted course to some reservoir, or +whether they fell short of the coast and exhausted themselves in marshes. +Considering the concave direction of the mountains to the S.E., I even +at this time hoped that the rivers falling into the interior would unite +sooner or later, and contribute to the formation of an important and +navigable stream. Of the fate of the Morumbidgee, the old black could give +no account. It seemed probable, therefore, that we were far from its +termination. + +I had hitherto been rather severe upon the animals, for although our +journey had not exceeded from twelve to fifteen miles a day, it had been +without intermission. I determined, therefore, to give both men and +animals a day of rest, as soon as I should find a convenient place. We +started on the 11th with this intention, but we managed to creep over +eight or ten miles of ground before we halted. The country was slightly +undulated, and much intersected by creeks, few of which had water in them. +The whole tract was, however, well adapted either for agriculture, or +for grazing, and, in spite of the drought that had evidently long hung +over it, was well covered with vegetation. We had passed all high lands, +and the interior to the westward presented an unbroken level to the eye. +The Morumbidgee appeared to hold a more northerly course than I had +anticipated. Still low ranges continued upon our right, and the cypress +ridges became more frequent and denser; but the timber on the more open +grounds generally consisted of box and flooded-gum. Of minor trees, the +acacia pendula was the most prevalent, with a shrub bearing a round nut, +enclosed in a scarlet capsule, and an interesting species of stenochylus. +I had observed as yet, few of the plants of the more northern interior. + +NATIVES--THEIR UGLINESS. + +In this neighbourhood, the dogs killed an emu and a kangaroo, which came +in very conveniently for some natives whom we fell in with on one of the +river flats. They were, without exception, the worst featured of any I had +ever seen. It is scarcely possible to conceive that human beings could +be so hideous and loathsome. The old black, who was rather good-looking, +told me they were the last we should see for some time, and I felt that if +these were samples of the natives on the lowlands, I cared very little how +few of I them we should meet. + +EXTENSIVE PLAINS. + +The country on the opposite side of the river had all the features of that +to the north of it, but a plain of such extent suddenly opened upon us to +the southward, that I halted at once in order to examine it, and by +availing myself of a day of rest, to fix our position more truly than we +could otherwise have done. We accordingly pitched our tents under some +lofty gum-trees, opposite to the plain, and close upon the edge of the +sandy beach of the river. Before they were turned out, the animals were +carefully examined, and the pack-saddles overhauled, that they might +undergo any necessary repairs. The river fell considerably during the +night, but it poured along a vast body of water, possessing a strong +current. The only change I remarked in it was that it now had a bed of +sand, and was generally deeper on one side than on the other. It kept a +very uniform breadth of from 150 to 170 feet--and a depth of from 4 to 20. +Its channel, though occasionally much encumbered with fallen timber, was +large enough to contain twice the volume of water then in it, but it had +outer and more distant banks, the boundaries of the alluvial flats, to +confine it within certain limits, during the most violent floods, and to +prevent its inundating the country. + +HAMILTON'S PLAINS. + +With a view to examine the plain opposite to us, I directed our horses to +be taken across the river early in the morning, and after breakfast, +M'Leay and I swam across after them. We found the current strong, and +could not keep a direct line over the channel, but were carried below the +place at which we plunged in. We proceeded afterwards in a direction +W.S.W. across the plain for five or six miles, before we saw trees on the +opposite extremity, at a still greater distance. We thus found ourselves +in the centre of an area of from 26 to 30 miles. It appeared to be +perfectly level, though not really so. The soil upon it was good, +excepting in isolated spots, where it was sandy. Vegetation was scanty +upon it, but, on the whole, I should conclude that it was fitter for +agriculture than for grazing. For I think it very probable, that those +lands which lie hardening and bare in a state of nature, would produce +abundantly if broken up by the plough. I called this Hamilton's plains, +in remembrance of the surgeon of my regiment. The Morumbidgee forms its +N.E. boundary, and a creek rising on it, cuts off a third part on the +western side, and runs away from the river in a southerly direction. This +creek, even before it gets to the outskirts of the plains, assumes a +considerable size. Such a fact would argue that heavy rains fall in this +part of the interior, to cut out such a watercourse, or that the soil is +extremely loose; but I should think the former the most probable, since +the soil of this plain had a substratum of clay. I place our encampment on +the river in latitude 34 degrees 41 minutes 45 seconds S., and in East +longitude 146 degrees 50 minutes, the variation of the compass being +6 degrees 10 minutes E. + +INTERCOURSE WITH THE NATIVES; SCANTINESS OF THE POPULATION. + +On our return to the camp we found several natives with our people, and +among them one of the tallest I had ever seen. Their women were with them, +and they appeared to have lost all apprehension of any danger occurring +from us. The animals were benefited greatly by this day of rest. We left +the plain, therefore, on the 13th with renewed spirits, and passed over a +country very similar to that by which we had approached it, one well +adapted for grazing, but intersected by numerous creeks, at two of which +we found natives, some of whom joined our party. Our old friend left us in +quest of some blacks, who, as he informed Hopkinson, had seen the tracks +of our horses on the Darling. I was truly puzzled at such a statement, +which was, however, further corroborated by the circumstance of one of the +natives having a tire-nail affixed to a spear, which he said was picked +up, by the man who gave it to him, on one of our encampments. I could not +think it likely that this story was true, and rather imagined they must +have picked up the nail near the located districts, and I was anxious to +have the point cleared up. When we halted we had a large assemblage of +natives with us, amounting in all to twenty-seven, but I awaited in vain +the return of the old man. The night passed away without our seeing him, +nor did he again join us. + +We started in the morning with our new acquaintances, and kept on a +south-westerly course during the day, over an excellent grazing, and, in +many places, an agricultural country, still intersected by creeks, that +were too deep for the water to have dried in them. The country more +remote from the river, however, began to assume more and more the +character and appearance of the northern interior. I rode into several +plains, the soil of which was either a red sandy loam, bare of vegetation, +or a rotten and blistered earth, producing nothing but rhagodiae, +salsolae, and misembrianthemum. + +We fell in with another tribe of blacks during the journey, to whom we +were literally consigned by those who had been previously with us, and who +now turned back, while our new friends took the lead of the drays. They +were two fine young men, but had very ugly wives, and were for a long time +extremely diffident. I found that I could obtain but little information +through my black boy,--whether from his not understanding me, or because +he was too cunning, is uncertain. One of these young men, however, +clearly stated that he had seen the tracks of bullocks and horses, a long +time ago, to the N.N.W. in the direction of some detached hills, that were +visible from 20 to 25 miles distant. He remembered them, he said, as a +boy, and added that the white men were without water. It was, therefore, +clear that he alluded to Mr. Oxley's excursion, northerly from the +Lachlan, and I had no doubt on my mind, that he had been on one of that +officer's encampments, and that the hills to the north of us were those +to the opposite base of which he had penetrated. I was determined, +therefore, if practicable, to reach these hills, deeming it a matter of +great importance to connect the surveys, but I deferred my journey for a +day or two, in hopes, from the continued northerly course of the river, +that we should have approached them nearer. + +In the evening we fell in with some more blacks, among whom were two +brothers, of those who were acting as our guides. One had a very pretty +girl as a wife, and all the four brothers were very good-looking young +men. There cannot, I should think, be a numerous population on the banks +of the Morumbidgee, from the fact of our having seen not more than fifty +in an extent of more than 180 miles. They are apparently scattered along +it in families. I was rather surprised that my boy understood their +language well, since it certainly differed from that of the Macquarie +tribes, but nevertheless as these people do not wander far, our +information as to what was before us was very gradually arrived at, and +only as we fell in with the successive families. Moreover, as my boy +was very young, it may be that he was more eager in communicating to those +who had no idea of them, the wonders he had seen, than in making inquiries +on points that were indifferent to him. + +CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY. + +We passed a very large plain in the course of the day, which was bounded +by forests of box, cypress, and the acacia pendula, of red sandy soil and +parched appearance. The Morumbidgee evidently overflows a part of the +lands we crossed, to a greater extent than heretofore, though the alluvial +deposits beyond its influence were still both rich and extensive. The +crested pigeon made its appearance on the acacias, which I took to be a +sure sign of our approach to a country more than ordinarily subject to +overflow; since on the Macquarie and the Darling, those birds were found +only to inhabit the regions of marshes, or spaces covered by the acacia +pendula, or the polygonum. We had not, however, yet seen any of the latter +plant, although we were shortly destined to be almost lost amidst fields +of it. + +CHANGE IN THE COUNTRY. + + +We were now approaching that parallel of longitude in which the other +known rivers of New Holland had been found to exhaust themselves; the +least change therefore, for the worse was sufficient to raise my +apprehensions; yet, although the Morumbidgee had received no tributary +from the Dumot downwards, and was leading us into an apparently endless +level, I saw no indication of its decreasing in size, or in the rapidity +of its current. Certainly, however, I had, from the character of the +country around us, an anticipation that a change was about to take place +in it, and this anticipation was verified in the course of the following +day. The alluvial flats gradually decreased in breadth, and we journeyed +mostly over extensive and barren plains, which in many places approached +so near the river as to form a part of its bank. They were covered with +the salsolaceous class of plants, so common in the interior, in a red +sandy soil, and were as even as a bowling green. The alluvial spaces near +the river became covered with reeds, and, though subject to overflow at +every partial rise of it, were so extremely small as scarcely to afford +food for our cattle. Flooded-gum trees of lofty size grew on these reedy +spaces, and marked the line of the river, but the timber of the interior +appeared stunted and useless. + +DESCRIPTION OF THE NATIVES; MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE NATIVES. + +We found this part of the Morumbidgee much more populous than its upper +branches. When we halted, we had no fewer than forty-one natives with us, +of whom the young men were the least numerous. They allowed us to choose +a place for ourselves before they formed their own camp, and studiously +avoided encroaching on our ground so as to appear troublesome. Their +manners were those of a quiet and inoffensive people, and their appearance +in some measure prepossessing. The old men had lofty foreheads, and stood +exceedingly erect. The young men were cleaner is their persons and were +better featured than any we had seen, some of them having smooth hair and +an almost Asiatic cast of countenance. On the other hand, the women and +children were disgusting objects. The latter were much subject to +diseases, and were dreadfully emaciated. It is evident that numbers of +them die in their infancy for want of care and nourishment. We remarked +none at the age of incipient puberty, but the most of them under six. In +stating that the men were more prepossessing than any we had seen, I would +not be understood to mean that they differed in any material point either +from the natives of the coast, or of the most distant interior to which I +had been, for they were decidedly the same race, and had the same leading +features and customs, as far as the latter could be observed. The sunken +eye and overhanging eyebrow, the high cheek-bone and thick lip, distended +nostrils, the nose either short or acquiline, together with a stout bust +and slender extremities, and both curled and smooth hair, marked the +natives of the Morumbidgee as well as those of the Darling. They were +evidently sprung from one common stock, the savage and scattered +inhabitants of a rude and inhospitable land. In customs they differed in +no material point from the coast natives, and still less from the tribes +on the Darling and the Castlereagh. They extract the front tooth, +lacerate their bodies, to raise the flesh, cicatrices being their chief +ornament; procure food by the same means, paint in the same manner, and +use the same weapons, as far as the productions of the country will allow +them. But as the grass-tree is not found westward of the mountains, they +make a light spear of a reed, similar to that of which the natives of the +southern islands form their arrows. These they use for distant combat, and +not only carry in numbers, but throw with the boomerang to a great +distance and with unerring precision, making them to all intents and +purposes as efficient as the bow and arrow. They have a ponderous spear +for close fight, and others of different sizes for the chase. With regard +to their laws, I believe they are universally the same all over the known +parts of New South Wales. The old men have alone the privilege of eating +the emu; and so submissive are the young men to this regulation, that if, +from absolute hunger or under other pressing circumstances, one of them +breaks through it, either during a hunting excursion, or whilst absent +from his tribe, he returns under a feeling of conscious guilt, and by his +manner betrays his guilt, sitting apart from the men, and confessing his +misdemeanour to the chief at the first interrogation, upon which he is +obliged to undergo a slight punishment. This evidently is a law of policy +and necessity, for if the emus were allowed to be indiscriminately +slaughtered, they would soon become extinct. Civilised nations may learn a +wholesome lesson even from savages, as in this instance of their +forebearance. For somewhat similar reasons, perhaps, married people alone +are here permitted to eat ducks. They hold their corrobories, +(midnight ceremonies), and sing the same melancholy ditty that breaks the +stillness of night on the shores of Jervis' Bay, or on the banks of the +Macquarie; and during the ceremony imitate the several birds and beasts +with which they are acquainted. If these inland tribes differ in anything +from those on the coast, it is in the mode of burying their dead, and, +partially, in their language. Like all savages, they consider their women +as secondary objects, oblige them to procure their own food, or throw to +them over their shoulders the bones they have already picked, with a +nonchalance that is extremely amusing; and, on the march, make them beasts +of burden to carry their very weapons. The population of the Morumbidgee, +as far as we had descended it at this time, did not exceed from ninety to +a hundred souls. I am persuaded that disease and accidents consign many of +them to a premature grave. + +MIRAGE. + +From this camp, one family only accompanied us. We journeyed due west over +plains of great extent. The soil upon them was soft and yielding, in some +places being a kind of light earth covered with rhagodiae, in others a +red tenacious clay, overrun by the misembrianthemum and salsolae. +Nothing could exceed the apparent barrenness of these plains, or the +cheerlessness of the landscape. We had left all high lands behind us, and +were now on an extensive plain, bounded in the distance by low trees or by +dark lines of cypresses. The lofty gum-trees on the river followed its +windings, and, as we opened the points, they appeared, from the peculiar +effect of a mirage, as bold promontories jutting into the ocean, having +literally the blue tint of distance. This mirage floated in a light +tremulous vapour on the ground, and not only deceived us with regard to +the extent of the plains, and the appearance of objects, but hid the +trees, in fact, from our view altogether; so that, in moving, as we +imagined, upon the very point or angle of the river, we found as we neared +it, that the trees stretched much further into the plain, and were obliged +to alter our course to round them. The heated state of the atmosphere, and +the sandy nature of the country could alone have caused a mirage so +striking in its effects, as this,--exceeding considerably similar +appearances noticed during the first expedition. The travelling was so +heavy, that I was obliged to make a short day's journey, and when we +struck the river for the purpose of halting, it had fallen off very much +in appearance, and was evidently much contracted, with low banks and a +sandy bed. It was difficult to account for this sudden change, but when +I gazed on the extent of level country before me, I began to dread that +this hitherto beautiful stream would ultimately disappoint us. + +EXCURSION TOWARDS A RIDGE OF HILLS. + +I had deferred my intended excursion to the hills under which I imagined +Mr. Oxley had encamped, until we were out of sight of them, and I now +feared that it was almost too late to undertake it, but I was still +anxious to determine a point in which I felt considerable interest. I was +the more desirous of surveying the country to the northward, because of +the apparent eagerness with which the natives had caught at the word +Colare, which I recollected having heard a black on the Macquarie make +use of in speaking of the Lachlan. They pointed to the N.N.W., and making +a sweep with the arm raised towards the sky, seemed to intimate that a +large sheet of water existed in that direction; and added that it +communicated with the Morumbidgee more to the westward. This information +confirmed still more my impressions with regard to Mr. Oxley's line of +route; and, as I found a ready volunteer in M'Leay, I gave the party in +charge to Harris until I should rejoin him, and turned back towards the +hills, with the intention of reaching them if possible. No doubt we should +have done so had it not been for the nature of the ground over which we +travelled, and the impossibility of our exceeding a walk. We rode to a +distance of 18 miles, but still found ourselves far short of the hills, +and therefore gave up the point. I considered, however, that we were about +the same distance to the south, as Mr. Oxley had been to the north of +them, and in taking bearings of the highest points, I afterwards found +that they exactly tallied with his bearings, supposing him to have taken +them from his camp. + +QUIET DEMEANOUR OF THE NATIVES. + +On our way to the river, we Passed through some dense bushes of casuarinae +and cypresses, to the outskirts of the plains through which the +Morumbidgee winds. We reached the camp two or three hours after sunset, +and found it crowded with natives to the number of 60. They were extremely +quiet and inoffensive in their demeanour, and asked us to point out where +they might sleep, before they ventured to kindle their fires. One old man, +we remarked, had a club foot, and another was blind, but, as far as we +could judge from the glare of the fires, the generality of them were fine +young men, and supported themselves in a very erect posture when standing +or walking. There were many children with the women, among whom colds +seemed to prevail. It blew heavily from the N.W. during the night, and a +little rain fell in the early part of the morning. Our route during the +day, was over as melancholy a tract as ever was travelled. The plains to +the N. and N.W. bounded the horizon; not a tree of any kind was visible +upon them. It was equally open to the S., and it appeared as if the river +was decoying us into a desert, there to leave us in difficulty and in +distress. The very mirage had the effect of boundlessness in it, by +blending objects in one general hue; or, playing on the ground, it cheated +us with an appearance of water, and on arriving at the spot, we found a +continuation of the same scorching plain, over which we were moving, +instead of the stream we had hoped for. + +The cattle about this time began to suffer, and, anxious as I was to push +on, I was obliged to shorten my journeys, according to circumstances. +Amidst the desolation around us, the river kept alive our hopes. If it +traversed deserts, it might reach fertile lands, and it was to the issue +of the journey that we had to look for success. It here, however, +evidently overflowed its banks more extensively than heretofore, and +broad belts of reeds were visible on either side of it, on which the +animals exclusively subsisted. Most of the natives had followed us, and +their patience and abstinence surprised me exceedingly. Some of them had +been more than twenty-four hours without food, and yet seemed as little +disposed to seek it as ever. I really thought they expected me to supply +their wants, but as I could not act so liberal a scale, George M'Leay +undeceived them; after which they betook themselves to the river, and got +a supply of muscles. I rather think their going so frequently into the +water engenders a catarrh, or renders them more liable to it than they +otherwise would be. In the afternoon the wind shifted to the S.W. It blew +a hurricane; and the temperature of the air was extremely low. The natives +felt the cold beyond belief and kindled large fires. In the morning, when +we moved away, the most of them started with fire-sticks to keep +themselves warm; but they dropped off one by one, and at noon we found +ourselves totally deserted. + +DREARINESS OF THE LANDSCAPE. + +It is impossible for me to describe the kind of country we were now +traversing, or the dreariness of the view it presented. The plains were +still open to the horizon, but here and there a stunted gum-tree, or a +gloomy cypress, seemed placed by nature as mourners over the surrounding +desolation. Neither beast nor bird inhabited these lonely and inhospitable +regions, over which the silence of the grave seemed to reign. We had not, +for days past, seen a blade of grass, so that the animals could not have +been in very good condition. We pushed on, however, sixteen miles, in +consequence of the coolness of the weather. We observed little change in +the river in that distance, excepting that it had taken up a muddy bottom, +and lost all the sand that used to fill it. The soil and productions on +the plains continued unchanged in every respect. From this time to the +22nd, the country presented the same aspect. Occasional groups of cypress +showed themselves on narrow sandy ridges, or partial brushes extended from +the river, consisting chiefly of the acacia pendula, the stenochylus, +and the nut I have already noticed. The soil on which they grew was, if +possible, worse than that of the barren plain which we were traversing; +and their colour and drooping state rendered the desolate landscape still +more dreary. + +On the 21st, we found the same singular substance(gypsum) embedded in the +bank of the river that had been collected, during the former expedition, +on the banks of the Darling; and hope, which is always uppermost in the +human breast, induced me to think that we were fast approaching that +stream. My observations placed me in 34 degrees 17 minutes 15 seconds +S. and 145 degrees of E. longitude. + +BLACK BOY DESERTS. + +On the 22nd, my black boy deserted me. I was not surprised at his doing +so, neither did I regret his loss, for he had been of little use under any +circumstances. He was far too cunning for our purpose. I know not that the +term ingratitude can be applied to one in his situation, and in whose +bosom nature had implanted a love of freedom. We learnt from four blacks, +with whom he had spoken, and who came to us in the afternoon, that he had +gone up the river,--as I conjectured, to the last large tribe we had left, +with whom he appeared to become very intimate. + +A creek coming from the N.N.W. here fell into the Morumbidgee; a proof +that the general decline of country was really to the south, although a +person looking over it would have supposed the contrary. + +COUNTRY SUBJECT TO INUNDATION. + +We started on the 23rd, with the same boundlessness of plain on either +side of us; but in the course of the morning a change took place, both in +soil and productions; and from the red sandy loam, and salsolaceous +plants, amidst which we had been toiling, we got upon a light tenacious +and blistered soil, evidently subject to frequent overflow, and fields of +polygonum junceum, amidst which, both the crested pigeon and the black +quail were numerous. The drays and animals sank so deep in this, that we +were obliged to make for the river, and keep upon its immediate banks. +Still, with all the appearance of far-spread inundation, it continued +undiminished in size, and apparently in the strength of its current. +Its channel was deeper than near the mountains, but its breadth was about +the same. + +On the 24th, we were again entangled amidst fields of polygonum, through +which we laboured until after eleven, when we gained a firmer soil. Some +cypresses appeared upon our right, in a dark line, and I indulged hopes +that a change was about to take place in the nature of the country. We +soon, however, got on a light rotten earth, and were again obliged to make +for the river, with the teams completely exhausted. We had not travelled +many miles from our last camp, yet it struck me, that the river had +fallen off in appearance. I examined it with feelings of intense anxiety, +certain, as I was, that the flooded spaces, over which we had been +travelling would, sooner or later, be succeeded by a country overgrown +with reeds. The river evidently overflowed its banks, on both sides, +for many miles, nor had I a doubt that, at some periods, the space +northward, between it and the Lachlan, presented the appearance of one +vast sea. The flats of polygonum stretched away to the N.W. to an amazing +distance, as well as in a southerly direction, and the very nature of the +soil bore testimony to its flooded origin. But the most unaccountable +circumstance to me was, that it should be entirely destitute of +vegetation, with the exception of the gloomy and leafless bramble I have +noticed. + +M'Leay, who was always indefatigable in his pursuit after subjects of +natural history, shot a cockatoo, of a new species, hereabouts, having a +singularly shaped upper mandible. It was white, with scarlet down under +the neck feathers, smaller than the common cockatoo, and remarkable for +other peculiarities. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES; THE COLARE OR LACHLAN. + +Two or three natives made their appearance at some distance from the +party, but would not approach it until after we had halted. They then +came to the tents, seven in number, and it was evident from their manner, +that their chief or only object was to pilfer anything they could. We +did not, therefore, treat them with much ceremony. They were an +ill-featured race, and it was only by strict watching during the night +that they were prevented from committing theft. Probably from seeing that +we were aware of their intentions, they left us early, and pointing +somewhat to the eastward of north, said they were going to the Colare, +and on being asked how far it was, they signified that they should sleep +there. I had on a former occasion recollected the term having been made +use of by a black, on the Macquarie, when speaking to me of the Lachlan, +and had questioned one of the young men who was with us at the time, and +who seemed more intelligent than his companions, respecting it. +Immediately catching at the word, he had pointed to the N.N.W., and, +making a sweep with his arms raised towards the sky had intimated, +evidently, that a large sheet of water existed in that direction, in the +same manner that another black had done on a former occasion: on being +further questioned, he stated that this communicated with the Morumbidgee +more to the westward, and on my expressing a desire to go to it, he said +we could not do so under four days. We had, it appeared, by the account of +the seven natives, approached within one day's journey of it, and, as I +thought it would he advisable to gain a little knowledge of the country to +the north, I suggested to M'Leay to ride in that direction, while the +party should be at rest, with some good feed for the cattle that fortune +had pointed out to us. + +EXCURSION TOWARDS THE LACHLAN. + +Our horses literally sank up to their knees on parts of the great plain +over which we had in the first instance to pass, and we rode from three to +four miles before we caught sight of a distant wood at its northern +extremity; the view from the river having been for the last two or three +days, as boundless as the ocean. As we approached the wood, two columns of +smoke rose from it, considerably apart, evidently the fires of natives +near water. We made for the central space between them, having a dead +acacia scrub upon our right. On entering the wood, we found that it +contained for the most part, flooded-gum, under which bulrushes and +reeds were mixed together. The whole space seemed liable to overflow, and +we crossed numerous little drains, that intersected each other in every +direction. From the resemblance of the ground to that at the bottom of the +marshes of the Macquarie, I prognosticated to my companion that we should +shortly come upon a creek, and we had not ridden a quarter of a mile +further, when we found ourselves on the banks of one of considerable size. +Crossing it, we proceeded northerly, until we got on the outskirts of a +plain of red sandy soil, covered with rhagodia alone, and without a tree +upon the visible horizon. The country appeared to be rising before us, but +was extremely depressed to the eastward. After continuing along this +plain for some time, I became convinced from appearances, that we were +receding from water, and that the fires of the natives, which were no +longer visible, must have been on the creek we had crossed, that I judged +to be leading W.S.W. from the opposite quarter. We had undoubtedly struck +below to the westward of the Colare or Lachlan, and the creek was the +channel of communication between it and the Morumbidgee, at least such was +the natural conclusion at which I arrived. Having no further object in +continuing a northerly course, we turned to the S.E., and, after again +passing the creek, struck away for the camp on a S. by W. course, and +passed through a dense brush of cypress and casuarina in our way to it. + +CONNECTION OF LACHLAN WITH MORUMBIDGEE. + +Considering our situation as connected with the marshes of the Lachlan, +I cannot but infer that the creek we struck upon during this excursion +serves as a drain to the latter, to conduct its superfluous waters into +the Morumbidgee in times of flood, as those of the Macquarie are conducted +by the creek at the termination of its marshes into Morrisset's Chain of +Ponds. It will be understood that I only surmise this. I argue from +analogy, not from proof. Whether I am correct or not, my knowledge of the +facts I have stated, tended very much to satisfy my mind as to the LAY of +the interior; and to revive my hopes that the Morumbidgee would not fail +us, although there was no appearance of the country improving. + +COUNTRY COVERED WITH REEDS. + +We started on the 26th, on a course somewhat to the N.W., and traversed +plains of the same wearisome description as those I have already +described. The wheels of the drays sank up to their axle-trees, and the +horses above their fetlocks at every step. The fields of polygonum spread +on every side of us like a dark sea, and the only green object within +range of our vision was the river line of trees. In several instances, the +force of both teams was put to one dray, to extricate it from the bed into +which it had sunk, and the labour was considerably increased from the +nature of the weather. The wind was blowing as if through a furnace, from +the N.N.E., and the dust was flying in clouds, so as to render it almost +suffocating to remain exposed to it. This was the only occasion upon which +we felt the hot winds in the interior. We were, about noon, endeavouring +to gain a point of a wood at which I expected to come upon the river +again, but it was impossible for the teams to reach it without assistance. +I therefore sent M'Leay forward, with orders to unload the pack animals as +soon as he should make the river, and send them back to help the teams. He +had scarcely been separated from me 20 minutes, when one of the men came +galloping back to inform me that no river was to be found--that the +country beyond the wood was covered with reeds as far as the eye could +reach, and that Mr. M'Leay had sent him back for instructions. This +intelligence stunned me for a moment or two, and I am sure its effect upon +the men was very great. They had unexpectedly arrived at a part of the +interior similar to one they had held in dread, and conjured up a thousand +difficulties and privations. I desired the man to recall Mr. M'Leay; and, +after gaining the wood, moved outside of it at right angles to my former +course, and reached the river, after a day of severe toil and exposure, +at half-past five. The country, indeed, bore every resemblance to that +around the marshes of the Macquarie, but I was too weary to make any +further effort: indeed it was too late for me undertake anything until +the morning. + +ANXIOUS COGITATIONS; SURVEY OF RIVER AND ENVIRONS. + +The circumstances in which we were so unexpectedly placed, occupied my +mind so fully that I could not sleep; and I awaited the return of light +with the utmost anxiety. If we were indeed on the outskirts of marshes +similar to those I had on a former occasion found so much difficulty +in examining, I foresaw that in endeavouring to move round then I should +recede from water, and place the expedition in jeopardy, probably, without +gaining any determinate point, as it would be necessary for me to advance +slowly and with caution. Our provisions, however, being calculated to last +only to a certain period, I was equally reluctant to delay our operations. +My course was, therefore, to be regulated by the appearance of the country +and of the river, which I purposed examining with the earliest dawn. +If the latter should be found to run into a region of reeds, a boat would +be necessary to enable me to ascertain its direction; but, if ultimately +it should be discovered to exhaust itself, we should have to strike into +the interior on a N.W. course, in search of the Darling. I could not think +of putting the whale-boat together in our then state of uncertainty, and +it struck me that a smaller one could sooner he prepared for the purposes +for which I should require it. These considerations, together with the +view I had taken of the measures I might at last be forced into, +determined me, on rising, to order Clayton to fell a suitable tree, and to +prepare a saw-pit. The labour was of no consideration, and even if +eventually the boat should not be wanted, no injury would arise, and it +was better to take time by the forelock. Having marked a tree preparatory +to leaving the camp, M'Leay and I started at an early hour on an excursion +of deeper interest than any we had as yet undertaken; to examine the +reeds, not only for the purpose of ascertaining their extent, if possible, +but also to guide us in our future measures. We rode for some miles along +the river side, but observed in it no signs, either of increase or of +exhaustion. Its waters, though turbid, were deep, and its current still +rapid. Its banks, too, were lofty, and showed no evidence of decreasing +in height, so as to occasion an overflow of them, as had been the case +with the Macquarie. We got among vast bodies of reeds, but the plains of +the interior were visible beyond them. We were evidently in a hollow, and +the decline of country was plainly to the southward of west. Every thing +tended to strengthen my conviction that we were still far from the +termination of the river. The character it had borne throughout, and its +appearance now so far to the westward, gave me the most lively hopes that +it would make good its way through the vast level into which it fell, and +that its termination would accord with its promise. Besides, I daily +anticipated its junction with some stream of equal, if not of greater +magnitude from the S.E. I was aware that my resolves must be instant, +decisive, and immediately acted upon, as on firmness and promptitude at +this crisis the success of the expedition depended. About noon I checked +my horse, and rather to the surprise of my companion, intimated to +him my intention of returning to the camp, He naturally asked what I +purposed doing. I told him it appeared to me more than probable that the +Morumbidgee would hold good its course to some fixed point, now that it +had reached a meridian beyond the known rivers of the interior. It was +certain, from the denseness of the reeds, and the breadth of the belts, +that the teams could not be brought any farther, and that, taking every +thing into consideration, I had resolved on a bold and desperate measure, +that of building the whale-boat, and sending home the drays. Our +appearance in camp so suddenly, surprised the men not more than the orders +I gave. They all thought I had struck on some remarkable change of +country, and were anxious to know my ultimate views. It was not my +intention however, immediately to satisfy their curiosity. I had to study +their characters as long as I could, in order to select those best +qualified to accompany me on the desperate adventure for which I was +preparing. + +BOAT BUILDING. + +The attention both of M'Leay, and myself, was turned to the hasty building +of the whale-boat. A shed was erected, and every necessary preparation +made, and although Clayton had the keel of the small boat already laid +down, and some planks prepared, she was abandoned for the present, and, +after four days more of arduous labour, the whale-boat was painted and in +the water. From her dimensions, it appeared to me impossible that she +would hold all our provisions and stores, for her after-part had been +fitted up as an armoury, which took away considerably from her capacity of +stowage. The small boat would still, therefore, be necessary, and she was +accordingly re-laid, for half the dimensions of the large boat, and in +three days was alongside her consort in the river. Thus, in seven days we +had put together a boat, twenty-seven feet in length, had felled a tree +from the forest, with which we had built a second of half the size, had +painted both, and had them at a temporary wharf ready for loading. Such +would not have been the case had not our hearts been in the work, as the +weather was close and sultry, and we found it a task of extreme labour. +In the intervals between the hours of work, I prepared my despatches for +the Governor, and when they were closed, it only remained for me to select +six hands, the number I intended should accompany me down the river, and +to load the boats, ere we should once more proceed in the further +obedience of our instructions. + +COMPLETION OF ARRANGEMENTS FOR EMBARKATION. + +It was impossible that I could do without Clayton, whose perseverance and +industry had mainly contributed to the building of the boats; of the other +prisoners, I chose Mulholland and Macnamee; leaving the rest in charge +of Robert Harris, whose steady conduct had merited my approbation. My +servant, Harris, Hopkinson, and Fraser, of course, made up the crews. +The boats were loaded in the evening of Jan. 6th, as it had been +necessary to give the paint a little time to dry. On the 4th, I had sent +Clayton and Mulholland to the nearest cypress range for a mast and spar, +and on the evening of that day some blacks had visited us; but they sat on +the bank of the river, preserving a most determined silence; and, at +length, left us abruptly, and apparently in great ill humour. In the +disposition of the loads, I placed all the flour, the tea, and tobacco, +in the whaleboat. The meat-casks, still, and carpenters' tools, were put +into the small boat. + +As soon as the different arrangements were completed, I collected the men, +and told off those who were to accompany me. I then gave the rest over in +charge to Harris, and, in adverting to their regular conduct hitherto, +trusted they would be equally careful while under his orders. I then +directed the last remaining sheep to be equally divided among us; and it +was determined that, for fear of accidents, Harris should remain +stationary for a week, at the expiration of which time, he would be at +liberty to proceed to Goulburn Plains, there to receive his instructions +from Sydney; while the boats were to proceed at an early hour of the +morning down the river,--whether ever to return again being a point of the +greatest uncertainty. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + +Embarkation of the party in the boats, and voyage down the Morumbidgee-- +The skiff swamped by striking on a sunken tree--Recovery of boat and its +loading--Region of reeds--Dangers of the navigation--Contraction of the +channel--Reach the junction of a large river--Intercourse with the natives +on its banks--Character of the country below the junction of the rivers-- +Descent of a dangerous rapid--Warlike demonstrations of a tribe of +natives--Unexpected deliverance from a conflict with them--Junction of +another river--Give the name of the "Murray" to the principal stream. + + +The camp was a scene of bustle and confusion long before day-light. The +men whom I had selected to accompany me were in high spirits, and so eager +to commence their labours that they had been unable to sleep, but busied +themselves from the earliest dawn in packing up their various articles of +clothing, &c. We were prevented from taking our departure so early as I +had intended, by rain that fell about six. At a little after seven, +however, the weather cleared up, the morning mists blew over our heads, +and the sun struck upon us with his usual fervour. As soon as the minor +things were stowed away, we bade adieu to Harris and his party; and +shortly after, embarked on the bosom of that stream along the banks of +which we had journeyed for so many miles + +Notwithstanding that we only used two oars, our progress down the river +was rapid. Hopkinson had arranged the loads so well, that all the party +could sit at their ease, and Fraser was posted in the bow of the boat, +with gun in hand, to fire at any new bird or beast that we might surprise +in our silent progress. The little boat, which I shall henceforward call +the skiff, was fastened by a painter to our stern. + +SUPPOSED JUNCTION OF LACHLAN. + +As the reader will have collected from what has already fallen under his +notice, the country near the depot was extensively covered with reeds, +beyond which vast plains of polygonum stretched away. From the bed of the +river we could not observe the change that took place in it as we passed +along, so that we found it necessary to land, from time to time, for the +purpose of noting down its general appearance. At about fifteen miles from +the depot, we came upon a large creek-junction from the N.E., which I did +not doubt to be the one M'Leay and I had crossed on the 25th of December. +It was much larger than the creek of the Macquarie, and was capable of +holding a very great body of water, although evidently too small to +contain all that occasionally rushed from its source. I laid it down as +the supposed junction of the Lachlan, since I could not, against the +corroborating facts in my possession, doubt its originating in the marshes +of that river. Should this, eventually, prove to be the case, the similar +termination of the two streams traced by Mr. Oxley will be a singular +feature in the geography of the interior. + +EMUS--NATIVE TOMB. + +We were just about to land, to prepare our dinner, when two emus swam +across the river ahead of us. This was an additional inducement for us to +land, but we were unfortunately too slow, and the birds escaped us. We had +rushed in to the right bank, and found on ascending it, that the reeds +with which it had hitherto been lined, had partially ceased. A large +plain, similar to those over which we had wandered prior to our gaining +the flooded region, stretched away to a considerable distance behind us, +and was backed by cypresses and brush. The soil of the plain was a red +sandy loam, covered sparingly with salsolae and shrubs; thus indicating +that the country still preserved its barren character, and that it is the +same from north to south. Among the shrubs we found a tomb that appeared +to have been recently constructed. No mound had been raised over the body, +but an oval hollow shed occupied the centre of the burial place, that was +lined with reeds and bound together with strong net-work. Round this, the +usual walks were cut, and the recent traces of women's feet were visible +upon them, but we saw no natives, although, from the number and size of +the paths that led from the river, in various directions across the plain, +I was led to conclude, that, at certain seasons, it is hereabouts +numerously frequented. Fraser gathered some rushes similar to those used +by the natives of the Darling in the fabrication of their nets, and as +they had not before been observed, we judged them, of course, to be a sign +of our near approach to that river. + +ASPECT OF COUNTRY AND RIVER. + +As soon as we had taken a hasty dinner, we again embarked, and pursued our +journey. I had hoped, from the appearance of the country to the north of +us, although that to the south gave little indication of any change, that +we should soon clear the reeds; but at somewhat less than a mile they +closed in upon the river, and our frequent examination of the +neighbourhood on either side of it only tended to confirm the fact, that +we were passing through a country subject to great and extensive +inundation. We pulled up at half-past five, and could scarcely find space +enough to pitch our tents. + +The Morumbidgee kept a decidedly westerly course during the day. Its +channel was not so tortuous as we expected to have found it, nor did it +offer any obstruction to the passage of the boats. Its banks kept a +general height of eight feet, five of which were of alluvial soil, and +both its depth and its current were considerable. We calculated having +proceeded from 28 to 30 miles, though, perhaps, not more than half that +distance in a direct line. No rain fell during the day, but we experienced +some heavy squalls from the E.S.E. + +THE SKIFF STRIKES AND SINKS--LABOUR IN RECOVERING ARTICLES LOST. + +The second day of our journey from the depot was marked by an accident +that had well nigh obliged us to abandon the further pursuit of the river, +by depriving us of part of our means of carrying it into effect. We had +proceeded, as usual, at an early hour in the morning, and not long after +we started, fell in with the blacks who had visited us last, and who were +now in much better humour than upon that occasion. As they had their women +with them, we pushed in to the bank, and distributed some presents, after +which we dropped quietly down the river. Its general depth had been such +as to offer few obstructions to our progress, but about an hour after we +left the natives, the skiff struck upon a sunken log, and immediately +filling, went down in about twelve feet of water, The length of the +painter prevented any strain upon the whale-boat, but the consequence of +so serious an accident at once flashed upon our minds. That we should +suffer considerably, we could not doubt, but our object was to get the +skiff up with the least possible delay, to prevent the fresh water from +mixing with the brine, in the casks of meat. Some short time, however, +necessarily elapsed before we could effect this, and when at last the +skiff was hauled ashore, we found that we were too late to prevent the +mischief that we had anticipated. All the things had been fastened in the +boat, but either from the shock, or the force of the current, one of the +pork casks, the head of the still, and the greater part of the carpenter's +tools, had been thrown out of her. As the success of the expedition might +probably depend upon the complete state of the still, I determined to use +every effort for its recovery: but I was truly at a loss how to find it; +for the waters of the river were extremely turbid. In this dilemma, the +blacks would have been of the most essential service, but they were far +behind us, so that we had to depend on our own exertions alone. I directed +the whale-boat to be moored over the place where the accident had +happened, and then used the oars on either side of her, to feel along the +bottom of the river, in hopes that by these means we should strike upon +the articles we had lost. However unlikely such a measure was to prove +successful, we recovered in the course of the afternoon, every thing but +the still-head, and a cask of paint. Whenever the oar struck against the +substance that appeared, by its sound or feel to belong to us, it was +immediately pushed into the sand, and the upper end of the oar being held +by two men, another descended by it to the bottom of the river, remaining +under water as long as he could, to ascertain what was immediately within +arm's length of him. This work was, as may be imagined, most laborious, +and the men at length became much exhausted. They would not, however, give +up the search for the still head, more especially after M'Leay, in diving, +had descended upon it. Had he, by ascertaining his position, left it to us +to heave it up, our labours would soon have ended; but, in his anxiety for +its recovery, he tried to bring it up, when finding it too heavy, he let +it go, and the current again swept it away. + +At sunset. we were obliged to relinquish our task, the men complaining of +violent head-aches, which the nature of the day increased. Thinking our +own efforts would be unavailing, I directed two of the men to go up the +river for the blacks, at day-light in the morning, and set the reeds on +fire to attract their notice. The day had been cloudy and sultry in the +afternoon, the clouds collecting in the N.E.: we heard the distant +thunder, and expected to have been deluged with rain. None, however, +fell, although we were anxious for moisture to change the oppressive state +of the atmosphere. The fire I had kindled raged behind us, and threw dense +columns of smoke into the sky, that cast over the landscape a shade of the +most dismal gloom. We were not in a humour to admire the picturesque, but +soon betook ourselves to rest, and after such a day of labour as that we +had undergone, I dispensed with the night guard. + +PILFERING OF NATIVES. + +In the morning we resumed our search for the still head, which Hopkinson +at length fortunately struck with his oar. It had been swept considerably +below the place at which M'Leay had dived, or we should most probably have +found it sooner. With its recovery, all our fatigues were at once +forgotten, and I ordered the breakfast to be got ready preparatory to our +reloading the skiff. Fraser and Mulholland, who had left the camp at +daylight, had not yet returned. I was sitting in the tent, when Macnamee +came to inform me that one of the frying-pans was missing, which had +been in use the evening previous, for that he himself had placed it on the +stump of a tree, and he therefore supposed a native dog had run away with +it. Soon after this, another loss was reported to me, and it was at last +discovered that an extensive robbery had been committed upon us during +the night, and that, in addition to the frying-pan, three cutlasses, and +five tomahawks, with the pea of the steelyards, had been carried away. +I was extremely surprised at this instance of daring in the natives, and +determined, if possible, to punish it. About ten, Fraser and Mulholland +returned with two blacks. Fraser told me he saw several natives on our +side of the river, as he was returning, to whom those who were with him +spoke, and I felt convinced from their manner and hesitation, that they +were aware of the trick that had been played upon us. However, as Fraser +had promised them a tomahawk to induce them to accompany him, I fulfilled +the promise. + +CONTINUE OUR VOYAGE. + +Leaving this unlucky spot, we made good about sixteen miles during the +afternoon. The river maintained its breadth and depth nor were the reeds +continuous upon its banks. We passed several plains that were considerably +elevated above the alluvial deposits, and the general appearance of the +country induced me strongly to hope that we should shortly get out of the +region of reeds, or the great flooded concavity on which we had fixed our +depot; but the sameness of vegetation, and the seemingly diminutive size +of the timber in the distance, argued against any change for the better +in the soil of the interior. Having taken the precaution of shortening the +painter of the skiff, we found less difficulty in steering her clear +of obstacles, and made rapid progress down the Morumbidgee during the +first cool and refreshing hours of the morning. The channel of the river +became somewhat less contracted, but still retained sufficient depth for +larger boats than ours, and preserved a general westerly course. Although +no decline of country was visible to the eye, the current in places ran +very strong. It is impossible for me to convey to the reader's mind an +idea of the nature of the country through which we passed. On this day the +favourable appearances, noticed yesterday, ceased almost as soon as we +embarked. On the 10th, reeds lined the banks of the river on both sides, +without any break, and waved like gloomy streamers over its turbid waters; +while the trees stood leafless and sapless in the midst of them. Wherever +we landed, the same view presented itself--a waving expanse of reeds, and +a country as flat as it is possible to imagine one. The eye could seldom +penetrate beyond three quarters of a mile, and the labour of walking +through the reeds was immense; but within our observation all was green +and cheerless. The morning had been extremely cold, with a thick haze at +E.S.E. About 2 p.m. it came on to rain heavily, so that we did not stir +after that hour. + +CONTRACTION OF THE CHANNEL. + +I had remarked that the Morumbidgee was not, from the depot downwards, so +broad or so fine a river as it certainly is at the foot of the mountain +ranges, where it gains the level country. The observations of the last two +days had impressed upon my mind an idea that it was rapidly falling off, +and I began to dread that it would finally terminate in one of those fatal +marshes in which the Macquarie and the Lachlan exhaust themselves. My hope +of a more favourable issue was considerably damped by the general +appearance of the surrounding country; and from the circumstance of our +not having as yet passed a single tributary. As we proceeded down the +river, its channel gradually contracted, and immense trees that had been +swept down it by floods, rendered the navigation dangerous and intricate. +Its waters became so turbid, that it was impossible to see objects in it, +notwithstanding the utmost diligence on the part of the men. + +About noon, we fell in with a large tribe of natives, but had great +difficulty in bringing them to visit us. If they had HEARD of white men, +we were evidently the first they had ever SEEN. They approached us in the +most cautious manner, and were unable to subdue their fears as long as +they remained with us. Collectively, these people could not have amounted +to less than one hundred and twenty in number. + +ANOTHER ACCIDENT. + +As we pushed off from the bank, after having stayed with them about half +an hour, the whaleboat struck with such violence on a sunken log, that she +immediately leaked on her starboard side. Fortunately she was going slowly +at the time, or she would most probably have received some more serious +injury. One of the men was employed during the remainder of the afternoon +in bailing her out, and we stopped sooner than we should otherwise have +done, in order to ascertain the extent of damage, and to repair it. The +reeds terminated on both sides of the river some time before we pulled up, +and the country round the camp was more elevated than usual, and bore the +appearance of open forest pasture land, the timber upon it being a dwarf +species of box, and the soil a light tenacious earth. + +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER. + +About a mile below our encampment of the 12th, we at length came upon a +considerable creek-junction from the S.E. Below it, the river increased +both in breadth and depth; banks were lofty and perpendicular, and even +the lowest levels were but partially covered with reeds. We met with fewer +obstructions in consequence, and pursued our journey with restored +confidence. Towards evening a great change also took place in the aspect +of the country, which no longer bore general marks of inundation. The +level of the interior was broken by a small hill to the right of the +stream, but the view from its summit rather damped than encouraged my +hopes of any improvement. The country was covered with wood and brush, and +the line of the horizon was unbroken by the least swell. We were on an +apparently boundless flat, without any fixed point on which to direct our +movements, nor was there a single object for the eye to rest upon, beyond +the dark and gloomy wood that surrounded us on every side. + +Soon after passing this hill, the whale-boat struck upon a line of sunken +rocks, but fortunately escaped without injury. Mulholland, who was +standing in the bow, was thrown out of her, head foremost, and got a good +soaking, but soon recovered himself. The composition of the rock was +iron-stone, and it is the first formation that occurs westward of the +dividing range. We noticed a few cypresses in the distance, but the +general timber was dwarf-box, or flooded-gum, and a few of the acacia +longa scattered at great distances. In verifying our position by some +lunars, we found ourselves in 142 degrees 46 minutes 30 seconds of east +long., and in lat. 35 degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds S. the mean variation +of the compass being 4 degrees 10 minutes E. it appearing that we were +decreasing the variation as we proceeded westward. + +On the 13th, we passed the first running stream that joins the +Morumbidgee, in a course of more than 340 miles. It came from the S.E., +and made a visible impression on the river at the junction, although in +tracing it up, it appeared to be insignificant in itself. The circumstance +of these tributaries all occurring on the left, evidenced the level nature +of the country to the north. In the afternoon, we passed a dry creek also +from the S.E. which must at times throw a vast supply of water into the +river, since for many miles below, the latter preserved a breadth of +200 feet, and averaged from 12 to 20 feet in depth, with banks of from +15 to 18 feet in height. Yet, notwithstanding its general equality of +depth, several rapids occurred, down which the boats were hurried with +great velocity. The body of water in the river continued undiminished, +notwithstanding its increased breadth of channel; for which reason I +should imagine that it is fed by springs, independently of other supplies. +Some few cypresses were again observed, and the character of the distant +country resembled, in every particular, that of the interior between the +Macquarie and the Darling. The general appearance of the Morumbidgee, from +the moment of our starting on the 13th, to a late hour in the afternoon, +had been such as to encourage my hopes of ultimate success in tracing it +down; but about three o'clock we came to one of those unaccountable and +mortifying changes which had already so frequently excited my +apprehension. Its channel again suddenly contracted, and became almost +blocked up with huge trees, that must have found their way into it down +the creeks or junctions we had lately passed. The rapidity of the current +increasing at the same time, rendered the navigation perplexing and +dangerous. We passed reach after reach, presenting the same difficulties, +and were at length obliged to pull up at 5 p.m., having a scene of +confusion and danger before us that I did not dare to encounter with the +evening's light; for I had not only observed that the men's eye-sight +failed them as the sun descended, and that they mistook shadows for +objects under water, and VICE-VERSA, but the channel had become so narrow +that, although the banks were not of increased height, we were involved in +comparative darkness, under a close arch of trees, and a danger was hardly +seen ere we were hurried past it, almost without the possibility of +avoiding it. The reach at the head of which we stopped, was crowded with +the trunks of trees, the branches of which crossed each other in every +direction, nor could I hope, after a minute examination of the channel, +to succeed in taking the boats safely down so intricate a passage. + +DANGEROUS NAVIGATION OF THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +We rose in the morning with feelings of apprehension, and uncertainty; +and, indeed, with great doubts on our minds whether we were not thus early +destined to witness the wreck, and the defeat of the expedition. The men +got slowly and cautiously into the boat, and placed themselves so as to +leave no part of her undefended. Hopkinson stood at the bow, ready with +poles to turn her head from anything upon which she might be drifting. +Thus prepared, we allowed her to go with the stream. By extreme care and +attention on the part of the men we passed this formidable barrier. +Hopkinson in particular exerted himself, and more than once leapt from the +boat upon apparently rotten logs of wood, that I should not have judged +capable of bearing his weight, the more effectually to save the boat. +It might have been imagined that where such a quantity of timber had +accumulated, a clearer channel would have been found below, but such was +not the case. In every reach we had to encounter fresh difficulties. In +some places huge trees lay athwart the stream, under whose arched branches +we were obliged to pass; but, generally speaking, they had been carried, +roots foremost, by the current, and, therefore, presented so many points +to receive us, that, at the rate at which we were going, had we struck +full upon any one of them, it would have gone through and through the +boat. About noon we stopped to repair, or rather to take down the remains +of our awning, which had been torn away; and to breathe a moment from the +state of apprehension and anxiety in which our minds had been kept during +the morning. About one, we again started. The men looked anxiously out +ahead; for the singular change in the river had impressed on them an idea, +that we were approaching its termination, or near some adventure. On a +sudden, the river took a general southern direction, but, in its tortuous +course, swept round to every point of the compass with the greatest +irregularity. We were carried at a fearful rate down its gloomy and +contracted banks, and, in such a moment of excitement, had little time to +pay attention to the country through which we were passing. It was, +however, observed, that chalybeate-springs were numerous close to the +water's edge. At 3 p.m., Hopkinson called out that we were approaching +a junction, and in less than a minute afterwards, we were hurried into a +broad and noble river. + +JUNCTION OF A LARGE RIVER--CHARACTER OF THE RIVER. + +It is impossible for me to describe the effect of so instantaneous a +change of circumstances upon us. The boats were allowed to drift along at +pleasure, and such was the force with which we had been shot out of the +Morumbidgee, that we were carried nearly to the bank opposite its +embouchure, whilst we continued to gaze in silent astonishment on the +capacious channel we had entered; and when we looked for that by which we +had been led into it, we could hardly believe that the insignificant gap +that presented itself to us was, indeed, the termination of the beautiful +and noble stream, whose course we had thus successfully followed. I can +only compare the relief we experienced to that which the seaman feels on +weathering the rock upon which be expected his vessel would have +struck--to the calm which succeeds moments of feverish anxiety, when the +dread of danger is succeeded by the certainty of escape. + +To myself personally, the discovery of this river was a circumstance of a +particularly gratifying nature, since it not only confirmed the justness +of my opinion as to the ultimate fate of the Morumbidgee, and bore me out +in the apparently rash and hasty step I had taken at the depot, but +assured me of ultimate success in the duty I had to perform. We had got on +the high road, as it were, either to the south coast, or to some +important outlet; and the appearance of the river itself was such as to +justify our most sanguine expectations. I could not doubt its being the +great channel of the streams from the S.E. angle of the island. Mr. Hume +had mentioned to me that he crossed three very considerable streams, when +employed with Mr. Hovell in 1823 in penetrating towards Port Phillips, to +which the names of the Goulburn, the Hume, and the Ovens, had been given; +and as I was 300 miles from the track these gentlemen had pursued, I +considered it more than probable that those rivers must already have +formed a junction above me, more especially when I reflected that the +convexity of the mountains to the S.E. would necessarily direct the waters +falling inwards from them to a common centre. + +We entered the new river at right angles, and, as I have remarked, at the +point of junction the channel of the Morumbidgee had narrowed so as to +bear all the appearance of an ordinary creek. In breadth it did not exceed +fifty feet, and if, instead of having passed down it, I had been making my +way up the principal streams, I should little have dreamt that so dark and +gloomy an outlet concealed a river that would lead me to the haunts of +civilized man, and whose fountains rose amidst snow-clad mountains. Such, +however, is the characteristic of the streams falling to the westward of +the coast ranges. Descending into a low and level interior, and depending +on their immediate springs for existence, they fall off, as they increase +their distance from the base of the mountains in which they rise, and in +their lower branches give little results of the promise they had +previously made. + +The opinion I have expressed, and which is founded on my personal +experience, that the rivers crossed by Messrs. Hovell and Hume had +already united above me, was strengthened by the capacity of the stream we +had just discovered. It had a medium width of 350 feet, with a depth of +from twelve to twenty. Its reaches were from half to three-quarters of a +mile in length, and the views upon it were splendid. Of course, as the +Morumbidgee entered it from the north, its first reach must have been +E. and W., and it was so, as nearly as possible; but it took us a little +to the southward of the latter point, in a distance of about eight miles +that we pulled down it in the course of the afternoon. We then landed and +pitched our tents for the night. Its transparent waters were running over +a sandy bed at the rate of two-and-a-half knots an hour, and its banks, +although averaging eighteen feet in height, were evidently subject to +floods. + +ABSENCE OF NATIVES. + +We had not seen any natives since falling in with the last tribe on the +Morumbidgee. A cessation had, therefore, taken place in our communication +with them, in re-establishing which I anticipated considerable difficulty. +It appeared singular that we should not have fallen in with any for +several successive days, more especially at the junction of the two +rivers, as in similar situations they generally have an establishment. In +examining the country back from the stream, I did not observe any large +paths, but it was evident that fires had made extensive ravages in the +neighbourhood, so that the country was, perhaps, only temporarily +deserted. Macnamee, who had wandered a little from the tents, declared +that he had seen about a dozen natives round a fire, from whom (if he +really did see them) he very precipitately fled, but I was inclined to +discredit his story, because in our journey on the following day, we +did not see even a casual wanderer. + +WEATHER, TEMPERATURE, &C. + +The river maintained its character, and raised our hopes to the highest +pitch. Its breadth varied from 160 to 200 yards; and only in one place, +where a reef of iron-stone stretched nearly across from the left bank, +so as to contract the channel near the right and to form a considerable +rapid, was there any apparent obstruction to our navigation. I was sorry, +however, to remark that the breadth of alluvial soil between its outer and +inner banks was very inconsiderable, and that the upper levels were poor +and sandy. Blue-gum generally occupied the former, while the usual +productions of the plains still predominated upon the latter, and showed +that the distant interior had not yet undergone any favourable change. +We experienced strong breezes from the north, but the range of the +thermometer was high, and the weather rather oppressive than otherwise. +On the night of the 16th, we had a strong wind from the N.W., but it +moderated with day-light, and shifted to the E.N.E., and the day was +favourable and cool. Our progress was in every way satisfactory, and if +any change had taken place in the river, it was that the banks had +increased in height, in many places to thirty feet, the soil being a red +loam, and the surface much above the reach of floods. The bank opposite to +the one that was so elevated, was proportionably low, and, in general, not +only heavily timbered, but covered with reeds, and backed by a chain of +ponds at the base of the outer embankment. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. + +About 4 p.m., some natives were observed running by the river side behind +us, but on our turning the boat's head towards the shore, they ran away. +It was evident that they had no idea what we were, and, from their +timidity, feeling assured that it would be impossible to bring them to a +parley, we continued onwards till our usual hour of stopping, when we +pitched our tents on the left bank for the night, it being the one +opposite to that on which the natives had appeared. We conjectured that +their curiosity would lead them to follow us, which they very shortly did; +for we had scarcely made ourselves comfortable when we heard their wild +notes through the woods as they advanced towards the river; and their +breaking into view with their spears and shields, and painted and prepared +as they were for battle, was extremely fine. They stood threatening us, +and making a great noise, for a considerable time, but, finding that we +took no notice of them, they, at length, became quiet. I then walked to +some little distance from the party, and taking a branch in my hand, as a +sign of peace, beckoned them to swim to our side of the river, which, +after some time, two or three of them did. But they approached me with +great caution, hesitating at every step. They soon, however, gained +confidence, and were ultimately joined by all the males of their tribe. +I gave the FIRST who swam the river a tomahawk (making this a rule in +order to encourage them) with which he was highly delighted. I shortly +afterwards placed them all in a row and fired a gun before them: they were +quite unprepared for such an explosion, and after standing stupified and +motionless for a moment or two, they simultaneously took to their heels, +to our great amusement. I succeeded, however, in calling them back, and +they regained their confidence so much, that sixteen of them remained with +us all night, but the greater number retired at sunset. + +On the following morning, they accompanied us down the river, where we +fell in with their tribe, who were stationed on an elevated bank a short +distance below--to the number of eighty-three men, women, and children. +Their appearance was extremely picturesque and singular. They wanted us to +land, but time was too precious for such delays. Some of the boldest of +the natives swam round and round the boat so as to impede the use of the +oars, and the women on the bank evinced their astonishment by mingled +yells and cries. They entreated us, by signs, to remain with them, but, as +I foresaw a compliance on this occasion would hereafter be attended with +inconvenience, I thought it better to proceed on our journey, and the +natives soon ceased their importunities, and, indeed, did not follow or +molest us. + +ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AND OF THE RIVER BANKS. + +The river improved upon us at every mile. Its reaches were of noble +breadth, and splendid appearance. Its current was stronger, and it was fed +by numerous springs. Rocks, however, were more frequent in its bed, and in +two places almost formed a barrier across the channel, leaving but a +narrow space for the boats to go down. We passed several elevations of +from 70 to 90 feet in height, at the base of which the stream swept along. +The soil of these elevations was a mixture of clay (marl) and sand, upon +coarse sandstone. Their appearance and the manner in which they had been +acted upon by water, was singular, and afforded a proof of the violence of +the rains in this part of the interior. From the highest of these, I +observed that the country to the S.E. was gently undulated, and so far +changed in character from that through which we had been travelling; +still, however, it was covered with a low scrub, and was barren and +unpromising. + +About noon of the 18th, we surprised two women at the water-side, who +immediately retreated into the brush. Shortly after, four men showed +themselves, and followed us for a short distance, but hid themselves upon +our landing. The country still appeared undulated to the S.E.; the soil +was sandy, and cypresses more abundant than any other tree. We passed +several extensive sand-banks in the river, of unusual size and solidity, +an evident proof of the sandy nature of the interior generally. The vast +accumulations of sand at the junctions of every creek were particularly +remarkable. The timber on the alluvial flats was not by any means so large +as we had hitherto observed it; nor were the flats themselves so extensive +as they are on the Morumbidgee and the Macquarie. Notwithstanding the +aspect of the country which I have described, no POSITIVE change had as +yet taken place in the general feature of the interior. The river +continued to flow in a direction somewhat to the northward of west, +through a country that underwent no perceptible alteration. Its waters, +confined to their immediate bed, swept along considerably below the level +of its inner banks; and the spaces between them and the outer ones, though +generally covered with reeds, seemed not recently to have been flooded; +while on the other hand, they had, in many places, from successive +depositions, risen to a height far above the reach of inundation. Still, +however, the more remote interior maintained its sandy and sterile +character, and stretched away, in alternate plain and wood, to a distance +far beyond the limits of our examination. + +About the 21st, a very evident change took place in it. The banks of the +river suddenly acquired a perpendicular and water-worn appearance. Their +summits were perfectly level, and no longer confined by a secondary +embankment, but preserved an uniform equality of surface back from the +stream. These banks, although so abrupt, were not so high as the upper +levels, or secondary embankments. They indicated a deep alluvial deposit, +and yet, being high above the reach of any ordinary flood, were covered +with grass, under an open box forest, into which a moderately dense scrub +occasionally penetrated. We had fallen into a concavity similar to those +of the marshes, but successive depositions had almost filled it, and no +longer subject to inundation, it had lost all the character of those +flooded tracts. The kind of country I have been describing, lay rather to +the right than to the left of the river at this place, the latter +continuing low and swampy, as if the country to the south of the river +were still subject to inundation. As the expedition proceeded, the left +bank gradually assumed the appearance of the right; both looked water-worn +and perpendicular, and though not more than from nine to ten feet in +height, their summits were perfectly level in receding, and bore +diminutive box-timber, with widely-scattered vegetation. Not a single +elevation had, as yet, broken the dark and gloomy monotony of the +interior; but as our observations were limited to a short distance from +the river, our surmises on the nature of the distant country were +necessarily involved in some uncertainty. + +THREATENED ATTACK--AMICABLE CONFERENCE. + +On the 19th, as we were about to conclude our journey for the day, we saw +a large body of natives before us. On approaching them, they showed every +disposition for combat, and ran along the bank with spears in rests, as if +only waiting for an opportunity to throw them at us. They were upon the +right, and as the river was broad enough to enable me to steer wide of +them, I did not care much for their threats; but upon another party +appearing upon the left bank, I thought it high time to disperse one or +the other of them, as the channel was not wide enough to enable me to keep +clear of danger, if assailed by both, as I might be while keeping amid the +channel. I found, however, that they did not know how to use the advantage +they possessed, as the two divisions formed a junction; those on the left +swimming over to the stronger body upon the right bank. This, fortunately, +prevented the necessity of any hostile measure on my part, and we were +suffered to proceed unmolested, for the present. The whole then followed +us without any symptom of fear, but making a dreadful shouting, and +beating their spears and shields together, by way of intimidation. It is +but justice to my men to say that in this critical situation they evinced +the greatest coolness, though it was impossible for any one to witness +such a scene with indifference. As I did not intend to fatigue the men by +continuing to pull farther than we were in the habit of doing, we landed +at our usual time on the left bank, and while the people were pitching the +tents, I walked down the bank with M'Leay, to treat with these desperadoes +in the best way we could, across the water, a measure to which my men +showed great reluctance, declaring that if during our absence the natives +approached them, they would undoubtedly fire upon them. I assured them it +was not my intention to go out of their sight. We took our guns with us, +but determined not to use them until the last extremity, both from a +reluctance to shed blood and with a view to our future security. I held a +long pantomimical dialogue with them, across the water, and held out the +olive branch in token of amity. They at length laid aside their spears, +and a long consultation took place among them, which ended in two or three +wading into the river, contrary, as it appeared, to the earnest +remonstrances of the majority, who, finding that their entreaties had no +effect, wept aloud, and followed them with a determination, I am sure, of +sharing their fate, whatever it might have been. As soon as they landed, +M'Leay and I retired to a little distance from the bank, and sat down; +that being the usual way among the natives of the interior, to invite to +an interview. When they saw us act thus, they approached, and sat down by +us, but without looking up, from a kind of diffidence peculiar to them, +and which exists even among the nearest relatives, as I have already had +occasion to observe. As they gained confidence, however, they showed an +excessive curiosity, and stared at us in the most earnest manner. We now +led them to the camp, and I gave, as was my custom, the first who had +approached, a tomahawk; and to the others, some pieces of iron hoop. Those +who had crossed the river amounted to about thirty-five in number. +At sunset, the majority of them left us; but three old men remained at +the fire-side all night. I observed that few of them had either lost their +front teeth or lacerated their bodies, as the more westerly tribes do. The +most loathsome diseases prevailed among them. Several were disabled by +leprosy, or some similar disorder, and two or three had entirely lost +their sight. They are, undoubtedly, a brave and a confiding people, and +are by no means wanting in natural affection. In person, they resemble the +mountain tribes. They had the thick lip, the sunken eye, the extended +nostril, and long beards, and both smooth and curly hair are common among +them. Their lower extremities appear to bear no proportion to their bust +in point of muscular strength; but the facility with which they ascend +trees of the largest growth, and the activity with which they move upon +all occasions, together with their singularly erect stature, argue that +such appearance is entirely deceptive. + +INTERCOURSE WITH NATIVES. + +The old men slept very soundly by the fire, and were the last to get up in +the morning. M'Leay's extreme good humour had made a most favourable +impression upon them, and I can picture him, even now, joining in their +wild song. Whether it was from his entering so readily into their mirth, +or from anything peculiar that struck them, the impression upon the whole +of us was, that they took him to have been originally a black, in +consequence of which they gave him the name of Rundi. Certain it is, they +pressed him to show his side, and asked if he had not received a wound +there--evidently as if the original Rundi had met with a violent death +from a spear-wound in that place. The whole tribe, amounting in number to +upwards of 150, assembled to see us take our departure. Four of them +accompanied us, among whom there was one remarkable for personal strength +and stature.--The 21st passed without our falling in with any new tribe, +and the night of the 22nd, saw us still wandering in that lonely desert +together. There was something unusual in our going through such an extent +of country without meeting another tribe, but our companions appeared to +be perfectly aware of the absence of inhabitants, as they never left +our side. + +Although the banks of the river had been of general equality of height, +sandy elevations still occasionally formed a part of them, and their +summits were considerably higher than the alluvial flats. + +RAPID IN THE RIVER--DANGEROUS DESCENT OF THE BOATS. + +It was upon the crest of one of these steep and lofty banks, that on the +morning of the 22nd, the natives who were a-head of the boat, suddenly +stopped to watch our proceedings down a foaming rapid that ran beneath. +We were not aware of the danger to which we were approaching, until we +turned an angle of the river, and found ourselves too near to retreat. +In such a moment, without knowing what was before them, the coolness of +the men was strikingly exemplified. No one even spoke after they became +aware that silence was necessary. The natives (probably anticipating +misfortune) stood leaning upon their spears upon the lofty bank above us. +Desiring the men not to move from their seats, I stood up to survey the +channel, and to steer the boat to that part of it which was least impeded +by rocks. I was obliged to decide upon a hasty survey, as we were already +at the head of the rapid. It appeared to me that there were two passages, +the one down the centre of the river, the other immediately under its +right bank. A considerable rock stood directly in own way to the latter, +so that I had no alternative but to descend the former. About forty yards +below the rock, I noticed that a line of rocks occupied the space between +the two channels, whilst a reef, projecting from the left bank, made the +central passage distinctly visible, and the rapidity of the current +proportionably great. I entertained hopes that the passage was clear, and +that we should shoot down it without interruption; but in this I was +disappointed. The boat struck with the fore-part of her keel on a sunken +rock, and, swinging round as it were on a pivot, presented her bow to the +rapid, while the skiff floated away into the strength of it. We had every +reason to anticipate the loss of our whale-boat, whose build was so light, +that had her side struck the rock, instead of her keel, she would have +been laid open from stem to stern. As it was, however, she remained fixed +in her position, and it only remained for us to get her off the best way +we could. I saw that this could only be done by sending two of the men +with a rope to the upper rock, and getting the boat, by that means, into +the still water, between that and the lower one. We should then have time +to examine the channels, and to decide as to that down which it would be +safest to proceed. My only fear was, that the loss of the weight of the +two men would lighten the boat so much, that she would be precipitated +down the rapid without my having any command over her; but it happened +otherwise. We succeeded in getting her into the still water, and +ultimately took her down the channel under the right bank, without her +sustaining any injury. A few miles below this rapid the river took a +singular bend, and we found, after pulling several miles, that we were +within a stone's throw of a part of the stream we had already +sailed down. + +The four natives joined us in the camp, and assisted the men at their +various occupations. The consequence was, that they were treated with more +than ordinary kindness; and Fraser, for his part, in order to gratify +these favoured guests, made great havoc among the feathered race. He +returned after a short ramble with a variety of game, among which were a +crow, a kite, and a laughing jackass (alcedo gigantea,) a species of +king's-fisher, a singular bird, found in every part of Australia. Its cry, +which resembles a chorus of wild spirits, is apt to startle the traveller +who may be in jeopardy, as if laughing and mocking at his misfortune. +It is a harmless bird, and I seldom allowed them to be destroyed, as they +were sure to rouse us with the earliest dawn. To this list of Fraser's +spoils, a duck and a tough old cockatoo, must be added. The whole of these +our friends threw on the fire without the delay of plucking, and snatched +them from that consuming element ere they were well singed, and devoured +them with uncommon relish. + +DESERTED NATIVE VILLAGE. + +We pitched our tents upon a flat of good and tenacious soil. A brush, in +which there was a new species of melaleuca, backed it, in the thickest +part of which we found a deserted native village. The spot was evidently +chosen for shelter. The huts were large and long, all facing the same +point of the compass, and in every way resembling the huts occupied by the +natives of the Darling. Large flocks of whistling ducks, and other wild +fowl, flew over our heads to the N.W., as if making their way to some +large or favourite waters. My observations placed us in lat. 34 degrees +8 minutes 15 seconds south, and in east long. 141 degrees 9 minutes +42 seconds or nearly so; and I was at a loss to conceive what direction +the river would ultimately take. We were considerably to the N.W. of the +point at which we had entered it, and in referring to the chart, it +appeared, that if the Darling had kept a S.W. course from where the last +expedition left its banks, we ought ere this to have struck upon it, +or have arrived at its junction with the stream on which we were +journeying. + +CONVERSING BY SIGNS. + +The natives, in attempting to answer my interrogatories, only perplexed +me more and more. They evidently wished to explain something, by placing a +number of sticks across each other as a kind of diagram of the country. It +was, however, impossible to arrive at their meaning. They undoubtedly +pointed to the westward, or rather to the south of that point, as the +future course of the river; but there was something more that they were +anxious to explain, which I could not comprehend. The poor fellows seemed +quite disappointed, and endeavoured to beat it into Fraser's head with as +little success. I then desired Macnamee to get up into a tree. From the +upper branches of it he said he could see hills; but his account of their +appearance was such that I doubted his story: nevertheless it might have +been correct. He certainly called our attention to a large fire, as if the +country to the N.W. was in flames, so that it appeared we were approaching +the haunts of the natives at last. + +It happened that Fraser and Harris were for guard, and they sat up +laughing and talking with the natives long after we retired to rest. +Fraser, to beguile the hours, proposed shaving his sable companions, and +performed that operation with admirable dexterity upon their chief, to his +great delight. I got up at an early hour, and found to my surprise that +the whole of them had deserted us. Harris told me they had risen from the +fire about an hour before, and had crossed the river. I was a little +angry, but supposed they were aware that we were near some tribe, and had +gone on a-head to prepare and collect them. + +LARGE CONCOURSE OF NATIVES--THEIR HOSTILE DEMEANOUR. + +After breakfast, we proceeded onwards as usual. The river had increased so +much in width that, the wind being fair, I hoisted sail for the first +time, to save the strength of my men as much as possible. Our progress was +consequently rapid. We passed through a country that, from the nature of +its soil and other circumstances, appeared to be intersected by creeks and +lagoons. Vast flights of wild fowl passed over us, but always at a +considerable elevation, while, on the other hand, the paucity of ducks on +the river excited our surprise. Latterly, the trees upon the river, and in +its neighbourhood, had been a tortuous kind of box. The flooded-gum grew +in groups on the spaces subject to inundation, but not on the levels above +the influence of any ordinary rise of the stream. Still they were much +smaller than they were observed to be in the higher branches of the river. +We had proceeded about nine miles, when we were surprised by the +appearance in view, at the termination of a reach, of a long line of +magnificent trees of green and dense foliage. As we sailed down the reach, +we observed a vast concourse of natives under them, and, on a nearer +approach, we not only heard their war-song, if it might so be called, but +remarked that they were painted and armed, as they generally are, prior +to their engaging in deadly conflict. Notwithstanding these outward signs +of hostility, fancying that our four friends were with them, I continued +to steer directly in for the bank on which they were collected. I found, +however, when it was almost too late to turn into the succeeding reach +to our left, that an attempt to land would only be attended with loss of +life. The natives seemed determined to resist it. We approached so near +that they held their spears quivering in their grasp ready to hurl. They +were painted in various ways. Some who had marked their ribs, and thighs, +and faces with a white pigment, looked like skeletons, others were daubed +over with red and yellow ochre, and their bodies shone with the grease +with which they had besmeared themselves. A dead silence prevailed among +the front ranks, but those in the back ground, as well as the women, who +carried supplies of darts, and who appeared to have had a bucket of +whitewash capsized over their heads, were extremely clamorous. As I did +not wish a conflict with these people, I lowered my sail, and putting the +helm to starboard, we passed quietly down the stream in mid channel. +Disappointed in their anticipations, the natives ran along the bank of the +river, endeavouring to secure an aim at us; but, unable to throw with +certainty, in consequence of the onward motion of the boat, they flung +themselves into the most extravagant attitudes, and worked themselves into +a state of frenzy by loud and vehement shouting. + +PREPARATIONS FOR CONFLICT--UNEXPECTED INTERFERENCE. + +It was with considerable apprehension that I observed the river to be +shoaling fast, more especially as a huge sand-bank, a little below us, and +on the same side on which the natives had gathered, projected nearly a +third-way across the channel. To this sand-bank they ran with tumultuous +uproar, and covered it over in a dense mass. Some of the chiefs advanced +to the water to be nearer their victims, and turned from time to time to +direct their followers. With every pacific disposition, and an extreme +reluctance to take away life, I foresaw that it would be impossible any +longer to avoid an engagement, yet with such fearful numbers against us, +I was doubtful of the result. The spectacle we had witnessed had been one +of the most appalling kind, and sufficient to shake the firmness of most +men; but at that trying moment my little band preserved their temper +coolness, and if any thing could be gleaned from their countenances, it +was that they had determined on an obstinate resistance. I now explained +to them that their only chance of escape depended, or would depend, on +their firmness. I desired that after the first volley had been fired, +M'Leay and three of the men, would attend to the defence of the boat with +bayonets only, while I, Hopkinson, and Harris, would keep up the fire as +being more used to it. I ordered, however, that no shot was to be fired +until after I had discharged both my barrels. I then delivered their arms +to the men, which had as yet been kept in the place appropriated for them, +and at the same time some rounds of loose cartridge. The men assured me +they would follow my instructions, and thus prepared, having already +lowered the sail, we drifted onwards with the current. As we neared the +sand-bank, I stood up and made signs to the natives to desist; +but without success. I took up my gun, therefore, and cocking it, +had already brought it down to a level. A few seconds more would +have closed the life of the nearest of the savages. The distance +was too trifling for me to doubt the fatal effects of the discharge; +for I was determined to take deadly aim, in hopes that the fall of +one man might save the lives of many. But at the very moment, when +my hand was on the trigger, and my eye was along the barrel, my +purpose was checked by M'Leay, who called to me that another party of +blacks had made their appearance upon the left bank of the river. Turning +round, I observed four men at the top of their speed. The foremost of +them as soon as he got a-head of the boat, threw himself from a +considerable height into the water. He struggled across the channel to the +sand-bank, and in an incredibly short space of time stood in front of the +savage, against whom my aim had been directed. Seizing him by the throat, +he pushed backwards, and forcing all who were in the water upon the bank, +he trod its margin with a vehemence and an agitation that were exceedingly +striking. At one moment pointing to the boat, at another shaking his +clenched hand in the faces of the most forward, and stamping with passion +on the sand; his voice, that was at first distinct and clear, was lost in +hoarse murmurs. Two of the four natives remained on the left bank of the +river, but the third followed his leader, (who proved to be the remarkable +savage I have previously noticed) to the scene of action. The reader will +imagine our feelings on this occasion: it is impossible to describe them. +We were so wholly lost in interest at the scene that was passing, that the +boat was allowed to drift at pleasure. For my own part I was overwhelmed +with astonishment, and in truth stunned and confused; so singular, so +unexpected, and so strikingly providential, had been our escape. + +JUNCTION OF ANOTHER STREAM--PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE FROM DANGER. + +We were again roused to action by the boat suddenly striking upon a shoal, +which reached from one side of the river to the other. To jump out and +push her into deeper water was but the work of a moment with the men, and +it was just as she floated again that our attention was withdrawn to a new +and beautiful stream, coming apparently from the north. The great body of +the natives having posted themselves on the narrow tongue of land formed +by the two rivers, the bold savage who had so unhesitatingly interfered +on our account, was still in hot dispute with them, and I really feared +his generous warmth would have brought down upon him the vengeance of the +tribes. I hesitated, therefore, whether or not to go to his assistance. +It appeared, however, both to M'Leay and myself, that the tone of the +natives had moderated, and the old and young men having listened to the +remonstrances of our friend, the middle-aged warriors were alone holding +out against him. A party of about seventy blacks were upon the right bank +of the newly discovered river, and I thought that by landing among them, +we should make a diversion in favour of our late guest; and in this I +succeeded. If even they had still meditated violence, they would have to +swim a good broad junction, and that, probably, would cool them, or we +at least should have the advantage of position. I therefore, ran the boat +ashore, and landed with M'Leay amidst the smaller party of natives, wholly +unarmed, and having directed the men to keep at a little distance from the +bank. Fortunately, what I anticipated was brought about by the stratagem +to which I had had recourse. The blacks no sooner observed that we had +landed, than curiosity took place of anger. All wrangling ceased, and they +came swimming over to us like a parcel of seals. Thus, in less than a +quarter of an hour from the moment when it appeared that all human +intervention was at on end, and we were on the point of commencing a +bloody fray, which, independently of its own disastrous consequences, +would have blasted the success of the expedition, we were peacefully +surrounded by the hundreds who had so lately threatened us with +destruction; nor was it until after we had returned to the boat, and had +surveyed the multitude upon the sloping bank above us, that we became +fully aware of the extent of our danger, and of the almost miraculous +intervention of Providence in our favour. There could not have been less +than six hundred natives upon that blackened sward. But this was not the +only occasion upon which the merciful superintendance of that Providence +to which we had humbly committed ourselves, was strikingly manifested. +If these pages fail to convey entertainment or information, sufficient may +at least be gleaned from them to furnish matter for serious reflection; +but to those who have been placed in situations of danger where human +ingenuity availed them not, and where human foresight was baffled, I feel +persuaded that these remarks are unnecessary. + +NEW RIVER, SUPPOSED TO BE THE DARLING. + +It was my first care to call for our friend, and to express to him, as +well as I could, how much we stood indebted to him, at the same time that +I made him a suitable present; but to the chiefs of the tribes, +I positively refused all gifts, notwithstanding their earnest +solicitations. We next prepared to examine the new river, and turning the +boat's head towards it, endeavoured to pull up the stream. Our larboard +oars touched the right bank, and the current was too strong for us to +conquer it with a pair only; we were, therefore, obliged to put a second +upon her, a movement that excited the astonishment and admiration of the +natives. One old woman seemed in absolute ecstasy, to whom M'Leay threw an +old tin kettle, in recompense for the amusement she afforded us. + +HOIST THE UNION JACK. + +As soon as we got above the entrance of the new river, we found easier +pulling, and proceeded up it for some miles, accompanied by the once more +noisy multitude. The river preserved a breadth of one hundred yards, and a +depth of rather more than twelve feet. Its banks were sloping and grassy, +and were overhung by trees of magnificent size. Indeed, its appearance was +so different from the water-worn banks of the sister stream, that the men +exclaimed, on entering it, that we had got into an English river. Its +appearance certainly almost justified the expression; for the greenness of +its banks was as new to us as the size of its timber. Its waters, though +sweet, were turbid, and had a taste of vegetable decay, as well as a +slight tinge of green. Our progress was watched by the natives with +evident anxiety. They kept abreast of us, and talked incessantly. +At length, however, our course was checked by a net that stretched right +across the stream. I say checked, because it would have been unfair to +have passed over it with the chance of disappointing the numbers who +apparently depended on it for subsistence that day. The moment was one of +intense interest to me. As the men rested upon their oars, awaiting my +further orders, a crowd of thoughts rushed upon me. The various +conjectures I had formed of the course and importance of the Darling +passed across my mind. Were they indeed realized? An irresistible +conviction impressed me that we were now sailing on the bosom of that very +stream from whose banks I had been twice forced to retire. I directed the +Union Jack to be hoisted, and giving way to our satisfaction, we all stood +up in the boat, and gave three distinct cheers. It was an English feeling, +an ebullition, an overflow, which I am ready to admit that our +circumstances and situation will alone excuse. The eye of every native had +been fixed upon that noble flag, at all times a beautiful object, and to +them a novel one, as it waved over us in the heart of a desert. They had, +until that moment been particularly loquacious, but the sight of that flag +and the sound of our voices hushed the tumult, and while they were still +lost in astonishment, the boat's head was speedily turned, the sail was +sheeted home, both wind and current were in our favour, and we vanished +from them with a rapidity that surprised even ourselves, and which +precluded every hope of the most adventurous among them to keep up +with us. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + + +Character of the country--Damage of provisions--Adroitness of the natives +in catching fish--The skiff broken up--Stream from the North-East supposed +to be the Darling--Change of country in descending the river--Intercourse +with the natives--Prevalence of loathsome diseases among them--Apparent +populousness of the country--Junction of several small streams--The Rufus, +the Lindesay, &c.--Rainy and tempestuous weather--Curious appearance of +the banks--Troublesomeness of the natives--Inhospitable and desolate +aspect of the country--Condition of the men--Change in the geological +character of the country--The river passes through a valley among hills. + + +Arrived once more at the junction of the two rivers, and unmolested in our +occupations, we had leisure to examine it more closely. Not having as yet +given a name to our first discovery, when we re-entered its capacious +channel on this occasion, I laid it down as the Murray River, in +compliment to the distinguished officer, Sir George Murray, who then +presided over the colonial department, not only in compliance with the +known wishes of his Excellency General Darling, but also in accordance +with my own feelings as a soldier. + +The new river, whether the Darling or an additional discovery, meets its +more southern rival on a N. by E. course; the latter, running W.S.W. at +the confluence, the angle formed by the two rivers, is, therefore, so +small that both may he considered to preserve their proper course, and +neither can be said to be tributary to the other. At their junction, +the Murray spreads its waters over the broad and sandy shore, upon which +our boat grounded, while its more impetuous neighbour flows through the +deep but narrow channel it has worked out for itself, under the right +bank. The strength of their currents must have been nearly equal, since +there was as distinct a line between their respective waters, to a +considerable distance below the junction, as if a thin board alone +separated them. The one half the channel contained the turbid waters of +the northern stream, the other still preserved their original +transparency. + +INUNDATED AND ALLUVIAL COUNTRY. + +The banks of the Murray did not undergo any immediate change as we +proceeded. We noticed that the country had, at some time, been subject to +extensive inundation, and was, beyond doubt, of alluvial formation. We +passed the mouths of several large creeks that came from the north and +N.W., and the country in those directions seemed to be much intersected by +water-courses; while to the south it was extremely low. Having descended +several minor rapids, I greatly regretted that we had no barometer to +ascertain the actual dip of the interior. I computed, however, that we +were not more than from eighty to ninety feet above the level of the sea. +We found the channel of the Murray much encumbered with timber, and +noticed some banks of sand that were of unusual size, and equalled the +largest accumulations of it on the sea shore, both in extent and solidity. + +STATE OF PROVISIONS. + +We would gladly have fired into the flights of wild fowl that winged their +way over us, for we, about this time, began to feel the consequences of +the disaster that befell us in the Morumbidgee. The fresh water having got +mixed with the brine in the meat casks, the greater part of our salt +provisions had got spoiled, so that we were obliged to be extremely +economical in the expenditure of what remained, as we knew not to what +straits we might be driven. It will naturally be asked why we did not +procure fish? The answer is easy. The men had caught many in the +Morumbidgee, and on our first navigation of the Murray, but whether it was +that they had disagreed with them, or that their appetites were palled, or +that they were too fatigued after the labour of the day to set the lines, +they did not appear to care about them. The only fish we could take was +the common cod or perch; and, without sauce or butter, it is insipid +enough. We occasionally exchanged pieces of iron-hoop for two other kinds +of fish, the one a bream, the other a barbel, with the natives, and the +eagerness with which they met our advances to barter, is a strong proof of +their natural disposition towards this first step in civilization. + +DEXTERITY OF NATIVES IN FISHING. + +As they threw off all reserve when accompanying us as ambassadors, we had +frequent opportunities of observing their habits. The facility, for +instance, with which they procured fish was really surprising. They would +slip, feet foremost, into the water as they walked along the bank of the +river, as if they had accidentally done so, but, in reality, to avoid the +splash they would necessarily have made if they had plunged in head +foremost. As surely as they then disappeared under the surface of the +water, so surely would they re-appear with a fish writhing upon the point +of their short spears. The very otter scarcely exceeds them in power over +the finny race, and so true is the aim of these savages, even under water, +that all the fish we procured from them were pierced either close behind +the lateral fin, or in the very centre of the head, It is certain, from +their indifference to them, that the natives seldom eat fish when they can +get anything else. Indeed, they seemed more anxious to take the small +turtle, which, sunning themselves on the trunks or logs of trees over the +water, were, nevertheless, extremely on their guard. A gentle splash alone +indicated to us that any thing had dropped into the water, but the quick +eyes and ears of our guides immediately detected what had occasioned it, +and they seldom failed to take the poor little animal that had so vainly +trusted to its own watchfulness for security. It appeared that the natives +did not, from choice, frequent the Murray; it was evident, therefore, that +they had other and better means of subsistence away from it, and it struck +me, at the time, that the river we had just passed watered a better +country than any through which the Murray had been found to flow. + +BREAK UP THE SKIFF. + +We encamped rather earlier than usual upon the left bank of the river, +near a broad creek; for as the skiff had been a great drag upon us, I +determined on breaking it up, since there was no probability that we +should ever require the still, which alone remained in her. We, +consequently, burnt the former, to secure her nails and iron work, and I +set Clayton about cutting the copper of the latter into the shape of +crescents, in order to present them to the natives. Some large huts were +observed on the side of the creek, a little above the camp, the whole of +which faced the N.E. This arrangement had previously been noticed by us, +so that I was led to infer that the severest weather comes from the +opposite quarter in this part of the interior. I had not the least idea, +at the time, however, that we should, ere we reached the termination of +our journey, experience the effects of the S.W. winds. + +We must have fallen considerably during the day from the level of our +morning's position, for we passed down many reaches where the decline of +country gave an increased velocity to the current of the river. + +I had feared, not only in consequence of the unceremonious manner in +which we had left them, but, because I had, in some measure, rejected the +advances of their chiefs, that none of the natives would follow us, and I +regretted the circumstance on account of my men, as well as the trouble we +should necessarily have in conciliating the next tribe. We had not, +however, been long encamped, when seven blacks joined us. I think they +would have passed on if we had not called to them. As it was, they +remained with us but for a short time. We treated them very kindly, but +they were evidently under constraint, and were, no doubt, glad when they +found we did not object to their departing. + +NEW RIVER IDENTIFIED WITH THE DARLING. + +I have stated, that I felt satisfied in my own mind, that the beautiful +stream we had passed was no other than the river Darling of my former +journey. The bare assertion, however, is not sufficient to satisfy the +mind of the reader, upon a point of such importance, more especially when +it is considered how remarkable a change the Darling must have undergone, +if this were indeed a continuation of it. I am free to confess that it +required an effort to convince myself, but after due consideration, I see +no reason to alter the opinion I formed at a moment of peculiar +embarrassment. Yet it by no means follows that I shall convince others, +although I am myself convinced. The question is one of curious +speculation, and the consideration of it will lead us to an interesting +conjecture, as to the probable nature of the distant interior, between the +two points. It will be remembered that I was obliged to relinquish my +pursuit of the Darling, in east long. 144 degrees 48 minutes 30 seconds +in lat. 30 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds south. I place the junction of +the Murray and the new river, in long. 140 degrees 56 minutes east, and in +south lat. 34 degrees 3 minutes. I must remark, however, that the lunars I +took on this last occasion, were not satisfactory, and that there is, +probably, an error, though not a material one, in the calculation. Before +I measure the distance between the above points, or make any remarks on +the results of my own observations, I would impress the following facts +upon the reader's mind. + +I found and left the Darling in a complete state of exhaustion. As a river +it had ceased to flow; the only supply it received was from brine +springs, which, without imparting a current, rendered its waters saline +and useless, and lastly, the fish in it were different from those +inhabiting the other known rivers of the interior. It is true, I did not +procure a perfect specimen of one, but we satisfactorily ascertained that +they were different, inasmuch as they had large and strong scales, whereas +the fish in the western waters have smooth skins. On the other hand, the +waters of the new river were sweet, although turbid; it had a rapid +current in it; and its fish were of the ordinary kind. In the above +particulars, therefore, they differed much as they could well differ. Yet +there were some strong points of resemblance in the appearance of the +rivers themselves, which were more evident to me than I can hope to make +them to the reader. Both were shaded by trees of the same magnificent +dimensions; and the same kind of huts were erected on the banks of each, +inhabited by the same description, or race, of people, whose weapons, +whose implements, and whose nets corresponded in most respects. + +We will now cast our eyes over the chart: and see if the position of the +two rivers upon it, will at all bear out our conclusion that they are one +and the same; and whether the line that would join them is the one that +the Darling would naturally take, in reference to its previous +course.--We shall find that the two points under discussion, bear almost +N.E. and S.W. of each other respectively, the direct line in which the +Darling had been ascertained to flow, as far as it had been found +practicable to trace it. I have already remarked that the fracture of my +barometer prevented my ascertaining the height of the bed of the Darling +above the sea, during the first expedition. A similar accident caused me +equal disappointment on the second; because one of the most important +points upon which I was engaged was to ascertain the dip of the interior. +I believe I stated, in its proper place, that I did not think the Darling +could possibly be 200 feet above the sea, and as far as my observations +bear me out, I should estimate the bed of the Murray, at its junction with +the new river, to be within 100. It would appear that there is a distance +of 300 miles between the Murray River at this place, and the Darling; +a space amply sufficient for the intervention of a hilly country. No one +could have been more attentive to the features of the interior than I was; +nor could any one have dwelt upon their peculiarities with more earnest +attention. It were hazardous to build up any new theory, however ingenious +it may appear. The conclusions into which I have been led, are founded on +actual observation of the country through which I passed, and extend not +beyond my actual range of vision; unless my assuming that the decline of +the interior to the south has been satisfactorily established, be +considered premature. If not, the features of the country certainly +justify my deductions; and it will be found that they were still more +confirmed by subsequent observation.--That the Darling should have lost +its current in its upper branches, is not surprising, when the level +nature of the country into which it falls is taken into consideration; +neither does it surprise me that it should be stationary in one place, +and flowing in another; since, if, as in the present instance, there is a +great extent of country between the two points, which may perhaps be of +considerable elevation, the river may receive tributaries, whose waters +will of course follow the general decline of the country. I take it to be +so in the case before us; and am of opinion, that the lower branches of +the Darling are not at all dependent on its sources for a current, or for +a supply of water. I have somewhere observed that it appeared to me the +depressed interior over which I had already travelled, was of +comparatively recent formation. And, by whatever convulsion or change +so extensive a tract became exposed, I cannot but infer, that the Darling +is the main channel by which the last waters of the ocean were drained +off. The bottom of the estuary, for it cannot be called a valley, being +then left exposed, it consequently remains the natural and proper +reservoir for the streams from the eastward, or those falling easterly +from the westward, if any such remain to be discovered. + +From the junction of the Morumbidgee to the junction of the new river, the +Murray had held a W.N.W. course. From the last junction it changed its +direction to the S.W., and increased considerably in size. The country to +the south was certainly lower than that to the north; for, although both +banks had features common to each other, the flooded spaces were much +more extensive to our left than to our right. + +CHANGE OF COUNTRY. + +We started on the morning of the 24th, all the lighter from having got rid +of the skiff, and certainly freer to act in case the natives should evince +a hostile disposition towards us. As we proceeded down the river, the +appearances around us more and more plainly indicated a change of country. +Cypresses were observed in the distance, and the ground on which they +stood was higher than that near the stream; as if it had again acquired +its secondary banks. At length these heights approached the river so +nearly as to form a part of its banks, and to separate one alluvial flat +from another. Their summits were perfectly level; their soil was a red +sandy loam; and their productions, for the most part, salsolae and +misembrianthemum. From this it would appear that we had passed through a +second region, that must at some time have been under water, and that +still retained all the marks of a country partially subject to flood. + +INTRODUCED FROM TRIBE TO TRIBE. + +We had, as I have said, passed over this region, and were again hemmed in +by those sandy and sterile tracts upon which the beasts of the field could +obtain neither food nor water. We overtook the seven deputies some time +after we started, but soon lost sight of them again, as they cut off the +sweeps of the river, and shortened their journey as much as possible. +At 2 p.m. we found them with a tribe of their countrymen, about eighty in +number. We pulled in to the bank and remained with them for a short time, +and I now determined to convince the blacks who had preceded us, that I +had not been actuated by any other desire than that of showing to them +that we were not to be intimidated by numbers, when I refused to make them +any presents after their show of hostility. I now, therefore, gave them +several implements, sundry pieces of iron hoop, and an ornamental badge of +copper. When we left the tribe, we were regularly handed over to their +care. The seven men who had introduced us, went back at the same time that +we continued our journey, and two more belonging to the new tribe, went on +a-head to prepare the the neighbouring tribe to receive us; nor did we see +anything more of them during the day. + +We encamped on the left bank of the river, amidst a polygonum scrub, in +which we found a number of the crested pigeon. It was late before the +tents were pitched: as Fraser seldom assisted in that operation, but +strolled out with his gun after he had kindled a fire, so on this occasion +he wandered from the camp in search of novelty, and on his return, +informed me that there was a considerable ridge to the south of a plain +upon which he had been. + +I had myself walked out to the S.E., and on ascending a few feet above the +level of the camp, got into a scrub. I was walking quietly through it, +when I heard a rustling noise, and looking in the direction whence it +proceeded, I observed a small kangaroo approaching me. Having a stick in +my hand, and being aware that I was in one of their paths, I stood still +until the animal came close up to me, without apparently being aware of my +presence. I then gave it a blow an the side of the head, and made it reel +to one side, but the stick, being rotten, broke with the force of the +blow, and thus disappointed me of a good meal. + +During my absence from the camp, a flight of cockatoos, new to us, but +similar to one that Mr. Hume shot on the Darling, passed over the tents, +and I found M'Leay, with his usual anxiety, trying to get a shot at them. +They had, he told me, descended to water, but they had chosen a spot so +difficult of approach without discovery, that he had found it impossible +to get within shot of them. + +RIDGE TO THE SOUTH-EAST. + +There was a considerable rapid just below our position, which I examined +before dark. Not seeing any danger, I requested M'Leay to proceed down it +in the boat as soon as he had breakfasted, and to wait for me at the +bottom of it. As I wished to ascertain the nature and height of the +elevations which Fraser had magnified into something grand, Fraser and I +proceeded to the centre of a large plain, stretching from the left bank of +the river to the southward. It was bounded to the S.E. by a low scrub; +to the S. a thickly wooded ridge appeared to break the level of the +country. It extended from east to west for four or five miles, and then +gradually declined. At its termination, the country seemed to dip, and a +dense fog, as from an extensive sheet of water, enveloped the landscape. +The plain was crowded with cockatoos, that were making their morning's +repast on the berries of the salsolae and rhagodia, with which it was +covered. + +DISTANT RANGES SEEN. + +M'Leay had got safely down the rapid, so that as soon as I joined him, +we proceeded on our journey. We fell in with the tribe we had already +seen, but increased in numbers, and we had hardly left them, when we found +another tribe most anxiously awaiting our arrival. We stayed with the last +for some time, and exhausted our vocabulary, and exerted our ingenuity to +gain some information from them. I directed Hopkinson to pile up some +clay, to enquire if we were near any hills, when two or three of the +blacks caught the meaning, and pointed to the N.W. Mulholland climbed up a +tree in consequence of this, and reported to me that he saw lofty ranges +in the direction to which the blacks pointed; that there were two +apparently, the one stretching to the N.E., the other to the N.W. He +stated their distance to be about forty miles, and added that he thought +he could observe other ranges, through the gap, which, according to the +alignment of two sticks, that I placed according to Mulholland's +directions, bore S. 130 W. + +We had landed upon the right bank of the river, and there was a large +lagoon immediately behind us. The current in the river did not run so +strong as it had been. Its banks were much lower, and were generally +covered with reeds. The spaces subject to flood were broader than +heretofore, and the country for more than twenty miles was extremely +depressed. Our view from the highest ground near the camp was very +confined, since we were apparently in a hollow, and were unable to obtain +a second sight of the ranges we had noticed. + +PASS THREE CREEKS. + +Three creeks fell into the Murray hereabouts. One from the north, another +from the N.E., and the third from the south. The two first were almost +choked up with the trunks of trees, but the last had a clear channel. +Our tents stood on ground high above the reach of flood. The soil was +excellent, and the brushes behind us abounded with a new species of +melaleuca. + +The heat of the weather, at this time, was extremely oppressive, and the +thermometer was seldom under 100 degrees of Fahr. at noon. The wind, too, +we observed, seldom remained stationary for any length of time, but made +its regular changes every twenty-four hours. In the morning, it invariably +blew from the N.E., at noon it shifted to N.W., and as the sun set it flew +round to the eastward of south. A few dense clouds passed over us +occasionally, but no rain fell from them. + +DISEASES OF THE NATIVES. + +Our intercourse with the natives had now been constant. We had found the +interior more populous than we had any reason to expect; yet as we +advanced into it, the population appeared to increase. It was impossible +for us to judge of the disposition of the natives during the short +interviews we generally had with them, and our motions were so rapid that +we did not give them time to form any concerted plan of attack, had they +been inclined to attack us. They did not, however, show any disposition to +hostility, but, considering all things, were quiet and orderly, nor did +any instances of theft occur, or, at least, none fell under my notice. +The most loathsome of diseases prevailed throughout the tribes, nor were +the youngest infants exempt from them. Indeed, so young were some, whose +condition was truly disgusting, that I cannot but suppose they must have +been born in a state of disease; but I am uncertain whether it is fatal or +not in its results, though, most probably it hurries many to a premature +grave. How these diseases originated it is impossible to say. Certainly +not from the colony, since the midland tribes alone were infected. +Syphilis raged amongst them with fearful violence; many had lost their +noses, and all the glandular parts were considerably affected. I +distributed some Turner's cerate to the women, but left Fraser to +superintend its application. It could do no good, of course, but it +convinced the natives we intended well towards them, and, on that account, +it was politic to give it, setting aside any humane feeling. + +POPULOUS DISTRICT. + +The country through which we passed on the 28th, was extremely low, full +of lagoons, and thickly inhabited. No change took place in the river, +or in the nature and construction of its banks. We succeeded in getting a +view of the hills we had noticed when with the last tribe, and found that +they bore from us due north, N. 22 E., and S. 130 W. They looked bare and +perpendicular, and appeared to be about twenty miles from us. I am very +uncertain as to the character of these hills, but still think that they +must have been some of the faces of the bold cliffs that we had frequently +passed under. From the size and number of the huts, and from the great +breadth of the foot-paths, we were still further led to conclude that we +were passing through a very populous district. What the actual number of +inhabitants was it is impossible to say, but we seldom communicated with +fewer than 200 daily. They sent ambassadors forward regularly from one +tribe to another, in order to prepare for our approach, a custom that not +only saved us an infinity of time, but also great personal risk. Indeed, +I doubt very much whether we should ever have pushed so far down the +river, had we not been assisted by the natives themselves. I was +particularly careful not to do anything that would alarm them, or to +permit any liberty to be taken with their women. Our reserve in this +respect seemed to excite their surprise, for they asked sundry questions, +by signs and expressions, as to whether we had any women, and where they +were. The whole tribe generally assembled to receive us, and all, without +exception, were in a complete state of nudity, and really the loathsome +condition and hideous countenances of the women would, I should imagine, +have been a complete antidote to the sexual passion. It is to be observed, +that the women are very inferior in appearance to the men. The latter are, +generally speaking, a clean-limbed and powerful race, much stouter in the +bust than below, but withal, active, and, in some respects, intelligent; +but the women are poor, weak, and emaciated. This, perhaps, is owing to +their poverty and paucity of food, and to the treatment they receive at +the hands of the men; but the latter did not show any unkindness towards +them in our presence. + +Although I desired to avoid exciting their alarm, I still made a point of +showing them the effects of a gunshot, by firing at a kite, or any other +bird that happened to be near. My dexterity--for I did not trust Fraser, +who would, ten to one, have missed his mark--was generally exerted, as I +have said, against a kite or a crow; both of which birds generally +accompanied the blacks from place to place to pick up the remnants of +their meals. Yet, I was often surprised at the apparent indifference with +which the natives not only saw the effect of the shot, but heard the +report. I have purposely gone into the centre of a large assemblage and +fired at a bird that has fallen upon their very heads, without causing a +start or an exclamation, without exciting either their alarm or their +curiosity. + +Whence this callous feeling proceeded, whether from strength of nerve, +or because they had been informed by our forerunners that we should show +off before them, I know not, but I certainly expected a very different +effect from that which my firing generally produced, although I +occasionally succeeded in scattering them pretty well. + +JUNCTION OF THE RUFUS. + +About 11 a.m., we arrived at the junction of a small river with the +Murray, at which a tribe, about 250 in number, had assembled to greet us. +We landed, therefore, for the double purpose of distributing presents, and +of examining the junction, which, coming from the north, of course, fell +into the Murray upon its right bank. Its waters were so extremely muddy, +and its current so rapid, that it must have been swollen by some late +rains. Perhaps, it had its sources in the hills we had seen; be that as it +may, it completely discoloured the waters of the Murray. + +We made it a point never to distribute any presents among the natives +until we had made them all sit, or stand, in a row. Sometimes this was a +troublesome task, but we generally succeeded in gaining our point; with a +little exertion of patience. M'Leay was a famous hand at ordering the +ranks, and would, I am sure, have made a capital drill-sergeant, not less +on account of his temper than of his perseverance. I called the little +tributary I have noticed, the Rufus, in honour of my friend M'Leay's red +head, and I have no doubt, he will understand the feeling that induced me +to give it such a name. + +GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATION. + +Not many miles below the Rufus, we passed under a lofty cliff upon the +same side with it. It is the first elevation of any consequence that +occurs below the Darling, and not only on that account, but also on +account of the numerous substances of which it is composed, and the +singular formation that is near requires to be particularly +noticed. [See Appendix.] The examination was a task of considerable +danger, and both Fraser and myself had well nigh been buried under a mass +of the cliff that became suddenly detached, and, breaking into thousands +of pieces, went hissing and cracking into the river. + +THUNDER STORMS. + +The weather about this time was extremely oppressive and close. Thunder +clouds darkened the sky, but no rain fell. The thermometer was seldom +below 104 at noon, and its range was very trifling. The wind shifted +several times during the twenty-four hours; but these changes had no +effect on the thermometer. It was evident, however, as the sun set on the +evening of the 26th, that the clouds from which thunder had for the last +four or five days disturbed the silence of nature around us, would not +long support their own weight. A little before midnight, it commenced +raining, and both wind and rain continued to increase in violence until +about seven in the morning of the 27th; when the weather moderated. + +Two or three blacks had accompanied us from the last tribe, and had lain +down near the fire. As the storm increased, however, they got up, and +swimming across the river, left us to ourselves. This was a very unusual +thing, nor can I satisfy myself as to their object, unless it was to get +into shelter, for these people though they wander naked over the country, +and are daily in the water, feel the cold and rain very acutely. + +Observing the clouds collecting for so many days, I indulged hopes that we +were near high lands, perhaps mountains; but from the loftiest spots we +could see nothing but a level and dark horizon. Anxious to gain as correct +a knowledge of the country as possible we had, in the course of the day, +ascended a sandy ridge that was about a mile from the river. The view from +the summit of this ridge promised to be more extensive than any we had of +late been enabled to obtain; and as far as actual observation went, we +were not disappointed, although in every other particular, the landscape +was one of the most unpromising description. To the S. and S.E., the +country might be said to stretch away in one unbroken plain, for it was so +generally covered with wood that every inequality was hidden from our +observation. To the S.W. the river line was marked out by a succession of +red cliffs, similar to those we had already passed. To the north, the +interior was evidently depressed; it was overgrown with a low scrub, and +seemed to be barren in the extreme. The elevations upon which we stood +were similar to the sand-hills near the coast, and had not a blade of +grass upon them. Yet, notwithstanding the sterility of the soil, the +large white amarillis which grew in such profusion on the alluvial plains +of the Macquarie, was also abundant here. But it had lost its dazzling +whiteness, and had assumed a sickly yellow colour and its very appearance +indicated that it was not in a congenial soil. + +LINDESAY RIVER. + +We passed two very considerable junctions, the one coming from the S.E., +the other from the north. Both had currents in them, but the former was +running much stronger than the latter. It falls into the Murray, almost +opposite to the elevations I have been describing, and, if a judgment +can be hazarded from its appearance at its embouchure, it must, in its +higher branches, be a stream of considerable magnitude. Under this +impression, I have called it the Lindesay, as a tribute of respect to my +commanding officer, Colonel Patrick Lindesay of the 39th regt. I place it +in east long. 140 degrees 29 minutes, and in lat. 33 degrees 58 minutes +south. Mr. Hume is of opinion that this is the most southerly of the +rivers crossed by him and Mr. Hovel in 1823; but, as I have already +remarked, I apprehend that all the rivers those gentlemen crossed, had +united in one main stream above the junction of the Morumbidgee, and I +think it much more probable that this is a new river, and that it rises +to the westward of Port Phillips, rather than in the S.E. angle of the +coast. + +NATIVES BECOME TROUBLESOME. + +We found the blacks who had deserted us with a tribe at the junction, but +it was weak in point of numbers; as were also two other tribes or hordes +to whom we were introduced in rapid succession. Taken collectively, they +could not have amounted to 230 men, women, and children. The last of these +hordes was exceedingly troublesome, and I really thought we should have +been obliged to quarrel with them. Whether it was that we were getting +impatient, or that our tempers were soured, I know not, but even M'Leay, +whose partiality towards the natives was excessive at the commencement of +our journey, now became weary of such constant communication as we had +kept up with them. Their sameness of appearance, the disgusting diseases +that raged among them, their abominable filth, the manner in which they +pulled us about, and the impossibility of making them understand us, or +of obtaining any information from them,--for if we could have succeeded +in this point, we should have gladly borne every inconvenience,--all +combined to estrange us from these people and to make their presence +disagreeable. Yet there was an absolute necessity to keep up the chain of +communication, to ensure our own safety, setting aside every other +consideration; but as I had been fortunate in my intercourse with the +natives during the first expedition, so I hoped the present journey would +terminate without the occurrence of any fatal collision between us. The +natives, it is true, were generally quiet; but they crowded round us +frequently without any regard to our remonstrances, laying hold of the +boat to prevent our going away, and I sometimes thought that had any of +them been sufficiently bold to set the example, many of the tribes would +have attempted our capture. Indeed, in several instances, we were obliged +to resort to blows ere we could disengage ourselves from the crowds around +us, and whenever this occurred, it called forth the most sullen and +ferocious scowl--such, probably, as would be the forerunner of hostility, +and would preclude every hope of mercy at their hands. With each new tribe +we were, in some measure, obliged to submit to an examination, and to be +pulled about, and fingered all over. They generally measured our hands and +feet with their own, counted our fingers, felt our faces, and besmeared +our shirts all over with grease and dirt. This was no very agreeable +ceremony, and a repetition of it was quite revolting, more especially when +we had to meet the grins or frowns of the many with firmness and +composure. + +TEMPESTUOUS WEATHER. + +The weather had been tempestuous and rainy, for three or four successive +days: on the 28th it cleared up a little. Under any circumstances, +however, we could not have delayed our journey. We had not proceeded very +far when it again commenced to rain and to blow heavily from the N.W. +The river trended to the South. We passed down several rapids, and +observed the marks of recent flood on the trees, to the height of seven +feet. The alluvial flats did not appear to have been covered, or to be +subject to overflow. The timber upon them was not of a kind that is found +on flooded lands, but wherever reeds prevailed the flooded or blue gum +stretched its long white branches over them. The country to the westward +was low and bushy. + +SINGULAR FORMATION OF THE BANKS. + +The left bank of the Murray was extremely lofty, and occasionally rose to +100 feet perpendicularly from the water. It is really difficult to +describe the appearance of the banks at this place; so singular were they +in character, and so varied in form. Here they had the most beautiful +columnar regularity, with capitals somewhat resembling the Corinthian +order in configuration; there they showed like falls of muddy water that +had suddenly been petrified; and in another place they resembled the +time-worn battlements of a feudal castle. It will naturally be asked, of +what could these cliffs have been composed to assume so many different +forms? and what could have operated to produce such unusual appearances? +The truth is, they were composed almost wholly of clay and sand. Wherever +the latter had accumulated, or predominated, the gradual working of +water had washed it away, and left the more compact body, in some places, +so delicately hollowed out, that it seemed rather the work of art than of +nature. This singular formation rested on a coarse grit, that showed +itself in slabs. + +From the frequent occurrence of rapids I should imagine that we had fallen +considerably, but there was no visible decline of country. The river swept +along, in broad and noble reaches, at the base of the cliffs. Vast +accumulations of sand were in its bed, a satisfactory proof of the sandy +character of the distant interior, if other proof were wanting. + +We did not see so many natives on the 28th as we had been in the habit of +seeing; perhaps in consequence of the boisterous weather. A small tribe of +about sixty had collected to receive us, but we passed on without taking +any notice of them, Nevertheless they deputed two of their men to follow +us, who overtook us just as we stopped for the purpose of pitching our +tents before the clouds should burst, that just then bore the most +threatening appearance. The blacks seemed to be perfectly aware what kind +of a night we should have, and busied themselves preparing a hut and +making a large fire. + +The evening proved extremely dark, and towards midnight it blew and rained +fiercely. Towards morning the wind moderated, and the rain ceased. Still, +the sky was overcast, and the clouds were passing rapidly over us. The +wind had, however, changed some points, and from the N.W. had veered round +to the S.S.W.; and the day eventually turned out cool and pleasant. + +LARGE TRIBE OF NATIVES--THEIR INDIFFERENCE TO FIRE-ARMS. + +We fell in with a large tribe of natives, amounting in all to 270. They +were extremely quiet, and kept away from the boat; in consequence of which +I distributed a great many presents among them. This tribe was almost the +only one that evinced any eagerness to see us. The lame had managed to +hobble along, and the blind were equally anxious to touch us. There were +two or three old men stretched upon the bank, from whom the last sigh +seemed about to depart; yet these poor creatures evinced an anxiety to see +us, and to listen to a description of our appearance, although it seemed +doubtful whether they would be alive twenty-four hours after we left them. +An old woman, a picture of whom would disgust my readers, made several +attempts to embrace me. I managed, however, to avoid her, and at length +got rid of her by handing her over to Fraser, who was no wise particular +as to the object of his attention. This tribe must have been one of the +most numerous on the banks of the Murray, since we fell in with detached +families for many miles below the place where we had parted from the main +body. + +I have omitted to mention that, while among them, I fired at a kite and +killed it; yet, though close to me, the blacks did not start or evince the +least surprise. It really is difficult to account for such firmness of +nerve or self-command. It is not so much a matter of surprise that they +were indifferent to its effects, for probably they knew them not, but it +is certainly odd that they should not have been startled by the report. + +The river inclined very much to the southward for some miles below our +last camp; at length it struck against some elevations that turned it more +to the westward. Before we terminated our day's pull it again changed its +direction to the eastward of south. The right bank became lofty, and the +left proportionably depressed. + +REFLECTIONS ON THE PROGRESS OF THE EXPEDITION. + +In consequence of the boisterous weather we had had, we were uncertain as +to our precise situation, even in point of latitude. But I was perfectly +aware that we were considerably to the south of the head of St. Vincent's +Gulf. I began, therefore, to contemplate with some confidence a speedy +termination to our wanderings, or, at least, that we should soon reach the +extreme point to which we could advance. The sun was at this time out of +my reach, since the sextant would not measure double the altitude. +Observations of the stars were, in like manner, uncertain, in consequence +of the boisterous weather we had had, and the unavoidable agitation of the +quicksilver. My last observation of Antares placed us in latitude +34 degrees 4 minutes; so that we were still 115 miles from the coast. + +We had now been twenty-two days upon the river, and it was uncertain how +long we should be in compassing the distance we had still to run. +Considering all things, we had, as yet, been extremely fortunate; and I +hoped that we should terminate our journey without the occurrence of any +fatal accident. Had the country corresponded with the noble stream that +traversed it, we should have been proportionably elated, but it was +impossible to conceal from ourselves its inhospitable and unprofitable +character, as far as we had, as yet, penetrated. If we except the partial +and alluvial flats on the immediate borders, and in the neighbourhood of +its tributaries and creeks, the Murray might be said to flow through a +barren and sandy interior. The appearance of the country through which we +passed on the 29th, was far from being such as to encourage us with the +hopes of any change for the better. The river was enclosed, on either +side, by the same kind of banks that have already been described; and it +almost appeared as if the plain had been rent asunder to allow of a +passage for its waters. The view of the distant interior was +unsatisfactory. It was, for the most part, covered with brush, but, at +length, cypresses again made their appearance, although at a considerable +distance from us. + +The river continued to flow to the southward, a circumstance that gave me +much satisfaction, for I now began to feel some anxiety about the men. +They had borne their fatigues and trials so cheerfully, and had behaved so +well, that I could not but regret the scanty provision that remained for +them. The salt meat being spoiled, it had fallen to the share of the dogs, +so that we had little else than flour to eat. Fish no one would touch, and +of wild fowl there were none to be seen. The men complained of sore eyes, +from the perspiration constantly running into them, and it was obvious to +me that they were much reduced. It will be borne in mind, that we were now +performing the earliest part of our task, and were going down with the +stream. I was sure that on our return, (For I had no hopes of meeting any +vessel on the coast,) we should have to make every day's journey good +against the current; and, if the men were now beginning to sink, it might +well be doubted whether their strength would hold out. Both M'Leay and +myself, therefore, encouraged any cheerfulness that occasionally broke out +among them, and Frazer enlivened them by sundry tunes that he whistled +whilst employed in skinning birds. I am sure, no galley-slave ever took to +his oar with more reluctance than poor Frazer. He was indefatigable in +most things, but he could not endure the oar. + +NATIVES BECOME UNRULY. + +We did not fall in with any natives on the 30th, neither did we see those +who had preceded us from the last tribe. On the 31st, to my mortification, +the river held so much to the northward, that we undid almost all our +southing. What with its regular turns, and its extensive sweeps, the +Murray covers treble the ground, at a moderate computation, that it would +occupy in a direct course; and we had a practical instance of the truth of +this in the course of the afternoon, when we found our friends ready to +introduce us to a large assemblage of natives. On asking them how they had +passed us, they pointed directly east to the spot at which we had parted. +By crossing from one angle of the river to the other, they had performed +in little more than half a day, a journey which it had taken us two long +days to accomplish. After our usual distribution of presents, we pushed +away from the bank; though not without some difficulty, in consequence of +the obstinacy of the natives in wishing to detain us; and I was +exceedingly vexed to find, while we were yet in sight of them, that we had +proceeded down a shallow channel on one side of an island instead of the +further and deeper one; so that the boat ultimately grounded. A crowd of +the blacks rushed into the water, and surrounded us on every side. Some +came to assist us, others, under a pretence of assisting, pulled against +us, and I was at length obliged to repel them by threats. A good many of +them were very much disposed to annoy us, and, after the boat was in deep +water, some of them became quite infuriated, because we would not return. +Had we been within distance, they would assuredly have hurled their spears +at us. Thirteen of them followed us to our resting place. They kept rather +apart from us, and kindled their fire in a little hollow about fifty paces +to our right; nor did they venture to approach the tents unless we called +to them, so that by their quiet and unobtrusive conduct they made up in +some measure for the unruly proceedings of others of their tribe. + +We had now arrived at a point at which I hoped to gain some information +from the natives, respecting the sea. It was to no purpose, however, that +I questioned these stupid people. They understood perfectly, by my +pointing to the sky, and by other signs, that I was inquiring about large +waters, but they could not, or would not, give any information on the +subject. + +CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE COUNTRY. + +As we proceeded down the river, its current became weaker, and its channel +somewhat deeper. Our attention was called to a remarkable change in the +geology of the country, as well as to an apparent alteration in the +natural productions. The cliffs of sand and clay ceased, and were +succeeded by a fossil formation of the most singular description. At +first, it did not exceed a foot in height above the water, but it +gradually rose, like an inclined plane, and resembled in colour, and in +appearance, the skulls of men piled one upon the other. The constant +rippling of the water against the rock had washed out the softer parts, +and made hollows and cavities, that gave the whole formation the precise +appearance of a catacomb. On examination, we discovered it to be a compact +bed of shells, composed of a common description of marine shell from two +to three inches in length, apparently a species of turritella. + +BANKS OF PETRIFIED SHELLS. + +At about nine miles from the commencement of this formation, it rose to +the height of more than 150 feet; the country became undulating, and a +partial change took place in its vegetation. We stopped at an early hour, +to examine some cliffs, which rising perpendicularly from the water, were +different in character and substance from any we had as yet seen. They +approached a dirty yellow-ochre in colour, that became brighter in hue as +it rose, and, instead of being perforated, were compact and hard. +The waters of the river had, however, made horizontal lines upon their +fronts, which distinctly marked the rise and fall of the river, as the +strength or depth of the grooves distinctly indicated the levels it +generally kept. It did not appear from these lines, that the floods ever +rose more than four feet above the then level of the stream, or that they +continued for any length of time. On breaking off pieces of the rock, we +ascertained that it was composed of one solid mass of sea-shells, of +various kinds, of which the species first mentioned formed the lowest +part. + +It rained a good deal during the night, but the morning turned out +remarkably fine. The day was pleasant, for however inconvenient in some +respects the frequent showers had been, they had cooled the air, and +consequently prevented our feeling the heat so much as we should otherwise +have done, in the close and narrow glen we had now entered. + +Among the natives who followed us from the last tribe, there was an old +man, who took an uncommon fancy or attachment to Hopkinson, and who +promised, when we separated, to join us again in the course of the day. + +FACE OF THE COUNTRY. + +As we proceeded down the river we found that it was confined in a glen, +whose extreme breadth was not more than half-a-mile. The hills that rose +on either side of it were of pretty equal height. The alluvial flats were +extremely small, and the boldest cliffs separated them from each other. +The flats were lightly wooded, and were for the most part covered with +reeds or polygonum. They were not much elevated above the waters of the +river, and had every appearance of being frequently inundated. At noon we +pulled up to dine, upon the left bank, under some hills, which were from +200 to 250 feet in height. While the men were preparing our tea, +(for we had only that to boil,) M'Leay and I ascended the hills. The brush +was so thick upon them, that we could not obtain a view of the distant +interior. Their summits were covered with oyster-shells, in such abundance +as entirely to preclude the idea of their having been brought to such a +position by the natives. They were in every stage of petrification. + +In the course of the afternoon the old man joined us, and got into the +boat. As far as we could understand from his signs, we were at no great +distance from some remarkable change or other. The river had been making +to the N.W., from the commencement of the fossil formation, and it +appeared as if it was inclined to keep that direction. The old man pointed +to the N.W., and then placed his hand on the side of his head to indicate, +as I understood him, that we should sleep to the N.W. of where we then +were; but his second motion was not so intelligible, for he pointed due +south, as if to indicate that such would be our future course; and he +concluded his information, such as it was, by describing the roaring of +the sea, and the height of the waves. It was evident this old man had been +upon the coast, and we were therefore highly delighted at the prospect +thus held out to us of reaching it. + +REMARKABLE CLIFFS. + +A little below the hills under which we had stopped, the country again +assumed a level. A line of cliffs, of from two to three hundred feet in +height, flanked the river, first on one side and then on the other, +varying in length from a quarter of a mile to a mile. They rose +perpendicularly from the water, and were of a bright yellow colour, +rendered still more vivid occasionally by the sun shining full upon them. +The summits of these cliffs were as even as if they had been built by an +architect; and from their very edge, the country back from the stream was +of an uniform level, and was partly plain, and partly clothed by brush. +The soil upon this plateau, or table land, was sandy, and it was as barren +and unproductive as the worst of the country we had passed through. On the +other hand, the alluvial flats on the river increased in size, and were +less subject to flood; and the river lost much of its sandy bed, and its +current was greatly diminished in strength. + +NATIVE CHARACTER. + +It blew so fresh, during the greater part of the day, from the westward, +that we had great difficulty in pulling against the breeze. The determined +N.W. course the river kept, made me doubt the correctness of the story of +the little old black; yet there was an openness of manner about him, and a +clearness of description, that did not appear like fabrication. He pointed +to the S.S.W. when he left us, as the direction in which he would again +join us, thus confirming, without any apparent intention, what he had +stated with regard to the southerly course the river was about to take. +Among the natives who were with him, there was another man of very +different manners and appearance. Our friend was small in stature, had +piercing grey eyes, and was as quick as lightning in his movements The +other was tall, and grey headed; anxious, yet unobtrusive; and confident, +without the least mixture of boldness. The study of the human character on +many occasions similar to this, during our intercourse with these people, +rude and uncivilized as they were, was not only pleasing, but instructive. +We found that the individuals of a tribe partook of one general character, +and that the whole of the tribe were either decidedly quiet, or as +decidedly disorderly. The whole of the blacks left us when we started, +but we had not gone very far, when the individual I have described brought +his family, consisting of about fifteen persons. We were going down a part +of the river in which there was a very slight fall. The natives were +posted under some blue-gum trees, upon the right bank, and there was a +broad shoal of sand immediately to our left. They walked over to this +shoal, to receive some little presents, but did not follow when we +continued our journey. + +TAKE BEARINGS. + +During the whole of the day the river ran to the N.W. We stopped for the +night under some cliffs, similar to those we had already passed, but +somewhat higher. From their summit, mountains were visible to the N.W., +but at a great distance from us. I doubted not that they were at the head +of the southern gulfs; or of one of them, at all events. Our observations +placed us in 34 degrees 08 minutes south of lat., and in long. 139 degrees +41 minutes 15 seconds; we were consequently nearly seventy miles from +Spencer's Gulf, in a direct line, and I should have given that as the +distance the hills appeared to be from us. They bore as follows:-- + + Lofty round mountain, S. 127 degrees W. + Mountain scarcely visible, S. 128 degrees W. + Northern extremity of a broken range, S. 102 degrees W. + Southern extremity scarcely visible, S. 58 degrees W. + +The country between the river and these ranges appeared to be very low, +and darkly wooded: that to the N.E. was more open. The summit of the cliff +did not form any table-land, but it dipped almost immediately to the +westward, and the country, although, as I have already remarked, it was +depressed, and undulated. + +I walked to some distance from the river, across a valley, and started +several kangaroos; but I was quite alone, and could not, therefore, secure +one of them. Had the dogs been near, we should have had a fine feast. The +soil of the interior still continued sandy, but there was a kind of short +grass mixed with the salsolaceous plants upon it, that indicated, as I +thought, a change for the better in the vegetation; and the circumstance +of there being kangaroos in the valleys to the westward was also a +favourable sign. + +FEAST ON A TORTOISE. + +Beneath the cliffs hereabouts, the river was extremely broad and deep. +My servant thought it a good place for fishing and accordingly set a +night-line, one end of which he fastened to the bough of a tree. During +the night, being on guard, he saw a small tortoise floating on the water, +so near that he struck it a violent blow with a large stick, upon which it +dived: to his surprise, however, in the morning, he found that it had +taken the bait, and was fast to the line. On examining it, the shell +proved to be cracked, so that the blow must have been a severe one. It was +the largest we had ever seen, and made an excellent dish. The flesh was +beautifully white, nor could anything, especially under our circumstances, +have been more tempting than it was when cooked; yet M'Leay would not +partake of it. + +The prevailing wind was, at this time, from the S.W. It blew heavily all +day, but moderated towards the evening + +I was very anxious, at starting on the 3rd, as to the course the river +would take, since it would prove whether the little old man had played us +false or not. From the cliffs under which we had slept, it held a direct +N.W. course for two or three miles. It then turned suddenly to the S.E., +and gradually came round to E.N.E., so that after two hours pulling, we +found ourselves just opposite to the spot from which we had started, the +neck of land that separated the channels not being more than 200 yards +across. I have before noticed a bend similar to this, which the Murray +makes, a little above the junction of the supposed Darling with it. + +CHART OF THE RIVER. + +It may appear strange to some of my readers, that I should have laid down +the windings of the river so minutely. It may therefore be necessary for +me to state that every bend of it was laid down by compass, and that the +bearings of the angles as they opened were regularly marked by me, so that +not a single winding or curve of the Murray is omitted in the large chart. +The length of some of the reaches may be erroneous, but their direction is +strictly correct. I always had a sheet of paper and the compass before me, +and not only marked down the river line, but also the description of +country nearest; its most minute changes, its cliffs, its flats, the kind +of country back from it, its lagoons, the places at which the tribes +assembled, its junctions, tributaries and creeks, together with our +several positions, were all regularly noted, so that on our return up the +river we had no difficulty in ascertaining upon what part of it we were, +by a reference to the chart; and it proved of infinite service to us, +since we were enabled to judge of our distance from our several camps, as +we gained them day by day with the current against us; and we should often +have stopped short of them, weary and exhausted, had we not known that two +or three reaches more would terminate our labour for the day. + +REMARKABLE CLIFFS. + +From the spot last spoken of, the river held on a due south course for the +remainder of the day; and at the same time changed its character. It lost +its sandy bed and its current together, and became deep, still, and +turbid, with a muddy bottom. It increased considerably in breadth, and +stretched away before us in magnificent reaches of from three to six miles +in length. The cliffs under which we passed towered above us, like +maritime cliffs, and the water dashed against their base like the waves of +the sea. They became brighter and brighter in colour, looking like dead +gold in the sun's rays; and formed an unbroken wall of a mile or two in +length. The natives on their summits showed as small as crows; and the +cockatoos, the eagles, and other birds, were as specks above us; the +former made the valley reverberate with their harsh and discordant notes. +The reader may form some idea of the height of these cliffs, when informed +that the king of the feathered race made them his sanctuary. They were +continuous on both sides of the river, but retired, more or less, from it, +according to the extent of the alluvial flats. The river held a serpentine +course down the valley through which it passed, striking the precipices +alternately on each side. + +The soil on the flats was better, and less mixed with sand than it had +been, but the flats were generally covered with reeds, though certainly +not wholly subject to flood at any time. The polygonum still prevailed +upon them in places, and the blue-gum tree alone occupied their outskirts. +From the several elevations we ascended, the country to the N.W. appeared +undulating and well wooded; that to the eastward, seemed to be brushy and +low. Certainly there was a great difference in the country, both to the +eastward and to the westward. We had frequent views of the mountains we +had seen, or, I should have said, of a continuation of them. They bore +nearly west from us at a very great distance all day. + +We fell in with several tribes, but did not see our old friend, although, +from the inquiries we made, it was evident he was well known among them. +It would disgust my readers were I to describe the miserable state of +disease and infirmity to which these tribes were reduced. Leprosy of the +most loathsome description, the most violent cutaneous eruptions, and +glandular affections, absolutely raged through the whole of them; yet we +could not escape from the persecuting examination of our persons that +curiosity prompted them in some measure to insist upon. + +REJOINED BY OUR OLD NATIVE GUIDE. + +The old man, whose information had proved strictly correct, joined us +again on the 4th, and his joy at being received into the boat was +unbounded, as well as the pleasure he expressed at again meeting +Hopkinson. He had been on a long journey, it would appear, for he had not +then reached his tribe. As we approached their haunt, he landed and +preceded us to collect them. We were, of course, more than usually liberal +to so old a friend, and we were really sorry to part with him. + +Soon after leaving his tribe, which occupied the left bank of the river, +and was very weak in point of numbers, we fell in with a very strong tribe +upon the right bank. They numbered 211 in all. We lay off the bank, in +order to escape their importunities; a measure that by no means satisfied +them. The women appeared to be very prolific; but, as a race, these people +are not to be compared with the natives of the mountains, or of the upper +branches of the Murray. + +We passed some beautiful scenery in the course of the day. The river +preserved a direct southerly course, and could not in any place have been +less than 400 yards in breadth. The cliffs still continued, and varied +perpetually in form; at one time presenting a perpendicular wall to the +view, at others, they overhung the stream, in huge fragments. All were +composed of a mass of shells of various kinds; a fact which will call for +further observation and remark. + +DELAYED BY STRONG WINDS. + +Many circumstances at this time tended to confirm our hopes that the sea +could not be very far from us, or that we should not be long in gaining +it. Some sea-gulls flew over our heads, at which Fraser was about to +shoot, had I not prevented him, for I hailed them as the messengers of +glad tidings, and thought they ill deserved such a fate. It blew very hard +from the S.W., during the whole of the day, and we found it extremely +laborious pulling against the heavy and short sea that came rolling up the +broad and open reaches of the Murray at this place. + +Four of the blacks, from the last tribe, followed us, and slept at the +fires; but they were suspicious and timid, and appeared to be very glad +when morning dawned. Our fires were always so much larger than those made +by themselves, that, they fancied, perhaps, we were going to roast them. +Our dogs, likewise, gave them great uneasiness; for although so fond of +the native brute, they feared ours, from their size. We generally tied +them to the boat, therefore, to prevent a recurrence of theft, so that +they were not altogether useless. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + + +Improvement in the aspect of the country--Increase of the river--Strong +westerly gales--Chronometer broken--A healthier tribe of natives-- +Termination of the Murray in a large lake--Its extent and environs-- +Passage across it--Hostile appearance of the natives--Beautiful scenery +--Channel from the lake to the sea at Encounter Bay--Reach the beach-- +Large flocks of water fowl--Curious refraction--State of provisions-- +Embarrassing situation--Inspection of the channel to the ocean--Weak +condition of the men--Difficulties of the return. + +DELIGHTFUL COUNTRY. + +It now appeared that the Murray had taken a permanent southerly course; +indeed, it might strictly be said that it ran away to the south. As we +proceeded down it, the valley expanded to the width of two miles; the +alluvial flats became proportionably larger; and a small lake generally +occupied their centre. They were extensively covered with reeds and grass, +for which reason, notwithstanding that they were little elevated above the +level of the stream, I do not think they are subject to overflow. Parts of +them may be laid under water, but certainly not the whole. The rains at +the head of the Murray, and its tributaries, must be unusually severe to +prolong their effects to this distant region, and the flats bordering it +appear, by successive depositions, to have only just gained a height above +the further influence of the floods. Should this prove to be the case, the +valley may be decidedly laid down as a most desirable spot, whether we +regard the richness of its soil, its rock formation, its locality, or the +extreme facility of water communication along it. It must not, however, be +forgotten or concealed, that the summits of the cliffs by which the valley +is enclosed, have not a corresponding soil. On the contrary, many of the +productions common to the plains of the interior still existed upon them, +and they were decidedly barren; but as we measured the reaches of the +river, the cliffs ceased, and gave place to undulating hills, that were +very different in appearance from the country we had previously noted +down. It would have been impossible for the most tasteful individual to +have laid out pleasure ground to more advantage, than Nature had done in +planting and disposing the various groups of trees along the spine, and +upon the sides of the elevations that confined the river, and bounded the +low ground that intervened between it and their base. Still, however, the +soil upon these elevations was sandy, and coarse, but the large oat-grass +was abundant upon them, which yielded pasture at least as good as that in +the broken country between Underaliga and Morumbidgee. + +We had now gained a distance of at least sixty miles from that angle of +the Murray at which it reaches its extreme west. The general aspect of the +country to our right was beautiful, and several valleys branched away into +the interior upon that side which had a most promising appearance, and +seemed to abound with kangaroos, as the traces of them were numerous, and +the dogs succeeded in killing one, which, to our great mortification, we +could not find. + +While, however, the country to the westward had so much to recommend it, +the hills to our left became extremely bare. It was evident that the right +was the sheltered side of the valley. The few trees on the opposite side +bent over to the N.E., as if under the influence of some prevailing wind. + +ADVERSE GALES. + +We experienced at this time a succession of gales from the S.W., against +which we, on several occasions, found it useless to contend: the waves on +the river being heavy and short; and the boat, driving her prow into them, +sent the spray over us and soon wet us through. Indeed, it is difficult +for the reader to imagine the heavy swell that rolled up the river, which +had increased in breadth to the third of a mile, and in the length of its +reaches to eight or ten. I was satisfied that we were not only navigating +this river at a particularly stormy, perhaps THE stormy, season; but also, +that the influence of the S.W. wind is felt even as far in the interior as +to the supposed Darling; in consequence of the uniform build of the huts, +and the circumstance of their not only facing the N.E., but also being +almost invariably erected under the lee of some bush. + +The weather, under the influence of the wind we experienced, was cool and +pleasant, although the thermometer stood at a medium height of 86 degrees; +but we found it very distressing to pull against the heavy breezes that +swept up the valley, and bent the reeds so as almost to make them kiss the +stream. + +We communicated on the 6th and 7th with several large tribes of natives, +whose manners were on the whole quiet and inoffensive. They distinctly +informed us, that we were fast approaching the sea, and, from what I could +understand, we were nearer to it than the coast line of Encounter Bay made +us. We had placed sticks to ascertain if there was any rise or fall of +tide, but the troubled state of the river prevented our experiments from +being satisfactory. By selecting a place, however, that was sheltered from +the effects of the wind, we ascertained that there was an apparent rise +of about eight inches. + +OBLIGED TO TAKE REPOSE. + +It blew a heavy gale during the whole of the 7th; and we laboured in vain +at the oar. The gusts that swept the bosom of the water, and the swell +they caused, turned the boat from her course, and prevented us from making +an inch of way. The men were quite exhausted, and, as they had conducted +themselves so well, and had been so patient, I felt myself obliged to +grant them every indulgence consistent with our safety. However precarious +our situation, it would have been vain, with our exhausted strength, to +have contended against the elements. We, therefore, pulled in to the left +bank of the river, and pitched our tents on a little rising ground beyond +the reeds that lined it. + +CHRONOMETER BROKEN. + +I had been suffering very much front tooth-ache for the last three or four +days, and this day felt the most violent pain from the wind. I was not, +therefore, sorry to get under even the poor shelter our tents afforded. +M'Leay, observing that I was in considerable pain, undertook to wind up +the chronometer; but, not understanding or knowing the instrument, he +unfortunately broke the spring. I shall not forget the anxiety he +expressed, and the regret he felt on the occasion; nor do I think M'Leay +recovered the shock this unlucky accident gave him for two or three days, +or until the novelty of other scenes drove it from his recollection. + +We landed close to the haunt of a small tribe of natives, who came to us +with the most perfect confidence, and assisted the men in their +occupations. They were cleaner and more healthy than any tribe we had +seen; and were extremely cheerful, although reserved in some respects. +As a mark of more than usual cleanliness, the women had mats of oval +shape, upon which they sat, made, apparently, of rushes. There was a +young girl among them of a most cheerful disposition. She was about +eighteen, was well made, and really pretty. This girl was married to an +elderly man who had broken his leg, which having united in a bent shape, +the limb was almost useless. I really believe the girl thought we could +cure her husband, from her importunate manner to us. I regretted that I +could do nothing for the man, but to show that I was not inattentive to +her entreaties, I gave him a pair of trousers, and desired Fraser to put +them upon him; but the poor fellow cut so awkward an appearance in them, +that his wife became quite distressed, and Fraser was obliged speedily +to disencumber him from them again. + +We could not gain any satisfactory information, as to the termination of +the river, from these people. It was evident that some change was at hand; +but what it was we could not ascertain. + +APPEARANCE OF SOME APPROACHING CHANGE. + +On the morning of the 9th, we left our fair friend and her lame husband, +and proceeded down the river. The wind had moderated, although it still +blew fresh. We ascended every height as we went along, but could not see +any new feature in the country. Our view to the eastward was very +confined; to the westward the interior was low and dark, and was backed in +the distance by lofty ranges, parallel to which we had been running for +some days. The right bank of the valley was beautifully undulated, but the +left was bleak and bare. The valley had a breadth of from three to four +miles, and the flats were more extensive under the former than under the +latter. They were scarcely two feet above the level of the water, and were +densely covered with reeds. As there was no mark upon the reeds to +indicate the height to which the floods rose, I cannot think that these +flats are ever wholly laid under water; if they are, it cannot be to any +depth: at all events a few small drains would effectually prevent +inundation. The soil upon the hills continued to be much mixed with sand, +and the prevailing trees were cypress and box. Among the minor shrubs and +grass, many common to the east coasts were noticed; and although the bold +cliffs had ceased, the basis of the country still continued of the fossil +formation. At a turn of the stream hereabouts, however, a solitary rock of +coarse red granite rose above the waters, and formed an island in its +centre; but only in this one place was it visible. The rock was composed +principally of quartz and feldspar. + +A little below it, we found a large tribe anxiously awaiting our arrival. +They crowded to the margin of the river with great eagerness, and evinced +more surprise at our appearance than any tribe we had seen during the +journey; but we left them very soon, notwithstanding that they importuned +us much to stay. + +After pulling a mile or two, we found a clear horizon before us to the +south. The hills still continued upon our left, but we could not see any +elevation over the expanse of reeds to our right. The river inclined to +the left, and swept the base of the hills that still continued on that +side. I consequently landed once more to survey the country. + +TERMINATION OF THE MURRAY IN A LARGE LAKE. + +I still retained a strong impression on my mind that some change was at +hand, and on this occasion, I was not disappointed; but the view was one +for which I was not altogether prepared. We had, at length, arrived at the +termination of the Murray. Immediately below me was a beautiful lake, +which appeared to be a fitting reservoir for the noble stream that had led +us to it; and which was now ruffled by the breeze that swept over it. +The ranges were more distinctly visible, stretching from south to north, +and were certainly distant forty miles. They had a regular unbroken +outline; declining gradually to the south, but terminating abruptly at a +lofty mountain northerly. I had no doubt on my mind of this being the +Mount Lofty of Captain Flinders; or that the range was that immediately to +the eastward of St. Vincent's Gulf--Since the accident to the chronometer, +we had not made any westing, so that we knew our position as nearly as +possible. Between us and the ranges a beautiful promontory shot into the +lake, being a continuation of the right bank of the Murray. Over this +promontory the waters stretched to the base of the ranges, and formed an +extensive bay. To the N.W. the country was exceedingly low, but distant +peaks were just visible over it. To the S.W. a bold headland showed +itself; beyond which, to the westward, there was a clear and open sea +visible, through a strait formed by this headland and a point projecting +from the opposite shore. To the E. and S.E. the country was low, excepting +the left shore of the lake, which was backed by some minor elevations, +crowned with cypresses. Even while gazing on this fine scene, I could not +but regret that the Murray had thus terminated; for I immediately foresaw +that, in all probability, we should be disappointed in finding any +practicable communication between the lake and the ocean, as it was +evident that the former was not much influenced by tides. The wind had +again increased; it still blew fresh from the S.W. and a heavy sea was +rolling direct into the mouth of the river. I hoped, notwithstanding, that +we should have been enabled to make sail, for which reason we entered the +lake about 2 p.m. The natives had kindled a large fire on a distant point +between us and the further headland, and to gain this point our efforts +were now directed. The waves were, however, too strong, and we were +obliged to make for the eastern shore, until such time as the weather +should moderate. We pitched our tents on a low track of land that +stretched away seemingly for many miles directly behind us to the +eastward. It was of the richest soil, being a black vegetable deposit, +and although now high above the influence, the lake had, it was evident, +once formed a part of its bed. The appearance of the country altogether +encouraged M'Leay and myself to walk out, in order to examine it from some +hills a little to the S.E. of the camp. From them we observed that the +flat extended over about fifty miles, and was bounded by the elevations +that continued easterly from the left bank of the Murray to the north, +and by a line of rising-ground to the south. The whole was lightly wooded, +and covered with grass. The season must have been unusually dry, judging +from the general appearance of the vegetation, and from the circumstance +of the lagoons in the interior being wholly exhausted. + +Thirty-three days had now passed over our heads since we left the depot +upon the Morumbidgee, twenty-six of which had been passed upon the Murray. +We had, at length, arrived at the grand reservoir of those waters whose +course and fate had previously been involved in such obscurity. It +remained for us to ascertain whether the extensive sheet of water upon +whose bosom we had embarked, had any practicable communication with the +ocean, and whether the country in the neighbourhood of the coast +corresponded with that immediately behind our camp, or kept up its sandy +and sterile character to the very verge of the sea. As I have already +said, my hopes on the first of these points were considerably damped, but +I could not help anticipating a favourable change in the latter, since its +features had so entirely changed. + +DETAINED BY THE WIND. + +The greatest difficulty against which we had at present to contend was the +wind; and I dreaded the exertion it would call for, to make head against +it; for the men were so much reduced that I felt convinced they were +inadequate to any violent or prolonged effort. It still blew fresh at +8 p.m., but at that time it began to moderate. It may be imagined that I +listened to its subdued gusts with extreme anxiety. It did not wholly +abate until after 2 a.m., when it gradually declined, and about 3 a light +breeze sprung up from the N. E. + +We had again placed sticks to ascertain with more precision the rise of +tide, and found it to be the same as in the river. In the stillness of the +night too we thought we heard the roaring of the sea, but I was myself +uncertain upon the point, as the wind might have caused the sound. + +From the top of the hill from which we had obtained our first view of the +lake, I observed the waves breaking upon the distant headland, and +enveloping the cliff in spray; so that, independent of the clearness of +the horizon beyond it, I was further led to conclude that there existed a +great expanse of water to the S.W.; and, as that had been the direction +taken by the river, I thought it probable that by steering at once to the +S.W. down the lake, I should hit the outlet. I, consequently, resolved to +gain the southern extremity of the lake, as that at which it was natural +to expect a communication with the ocean would be found. + +GEOLOGICAL FORMATION. + +At 4 we had a moderate breeze, and it promised to strengthen; we lost no +time therefore in embarking, and with a flowing sheet stretched over to +the W.S.W., and ran along the promontory formed by the right bank of the +Murray. We passed close under its extreme point at nine. The hills had +gradually declined, and we found the point to be a flat, elevated about +thirty feet above the lake. It was separated from the promontory by a +small channel that was choked up with reeds, so that it is more than +probable that the point is insulated at certain periods; whilst in its +stratification it resembled the first cliffs I have described that were +passed below the Darling. It is a remarkable fact in the geology of the +Murray, that such should be the case; and that the formation at each +extremity of the great bank or bed of fossils should be the same. +Thus far, the waters of the lake had continued sweet; but on filling a can +when we were abreast of this point, it was found that they were quite +unpalatable, to say the least of them. The transition from fresh to salt +water was almost immediate, and it was fortunate we made the discovery in +sufficient time to prevent our losing ground. But, as it was, we filled +our casks, and stood on, without for a moment altering our course. + +PASSAGE ACROSS THE LAKE--ITS SHALLOWNESS. + +It is difficult to give a just description of our passage across the lake. +The boisterous weather we had had seemed to have blown over. A cool and +refreshing breeze was carrying us on at between four and five knots an +hour, and the heavens above us were without a cloud. It almost appeared as +if nature had resisted us in order to try our perseverance, and that she +had yielded in pity to our efforts. The men, relieved for a time from the +oar, stretched themselves at their length in the boat, and commented on +the scenery around them, or ventured their opinions as to that which was +before them. Up to this moment their conduct had been most exemplary; not +a murmur had escaped from them, and they filled the water-casks with the +utmost cheerfulness, even whilst tasting the disagreeable beverage they +would most probably have to subsist on for the next three or four days. + +As soon as we had well opened the point, we had a full view of the +splendid bay that, commencing at the western most of the central points, +swept in a beautiful curve under the ranges. No land was visible to the +W.N.W. or to the S.S.W.: in both these quarters the lake was as open as +the ocean. It appeared, therefore, that the land intermediate was an +island. To the north the country was extremely low, and as we increased +our distance from it we lost sight of it altogether. At noon we were +nearly abreast of the eastern headland, or in the centre of the strait to +which I have alluded. At this time there was an open sea from W.N.W. to +N. by E. A meridian altitude gave our latitude 35 degrees 25 minutes. +The land to our left was bold and precipitous; that to the right was low +and wooded; and there was evidently a considerable space between the +shores of the lake and the base of the ranges. The country to the eastward +was hidden from us by the line of cliffs, beyond which from E.S.E. to +W.S.W. there was an open sea. We had kept the lead going from the first, +and I was surprised at the extreme shallowness of the lake in every part, +as we never had six feet upon the line. Its bottom was one of black mud, +and weeds of enormous length were floating on its surface, detached by the +late gales, and which, from the shallowness of the lake, got constantly +entangled with our rudder. + +We tried to land on the eastern point, but found the water too shallow, +and were obliged to try the western shore. In passing close under the +head, we observed several natives upon it, who kindled a large fire as +soon as they saw they were noticed, which was answered from every point; +for, in less than ten minutes afterwards, we counted no fewer than +fourteen different fires, the greater number of which were on the side of +the ranges. + +SHORES OF THE LAKE. + +As we were standing across from one shore to the other, our attention was +drawn to a most singular object. It started suddenly up, as above the +waters to the south, and strikingly resembled an isolated castle. Behind +it, a dense column of smoke rose into the sky, and the effect was most +remarkable. On a nearer approach, the phantom disappeared and a clear and +open sea again presented itself to our view. The fact was, that the +refractive power upon the coast had elevated the sand-hillocks above their +true position, since we satisfactorily ascertained that they alone +separated the lake from the ocean, and that they alone could have produced +the semblance we noticed. It is a singular fact, that this very hillock +was the one which Capt. Barker ascended whilst carrying on the survey of +the south coast, and immediately previous to his tragical death. + +It was not without difficulty that we succeeded in landing on the western +shore; but we did, at length, succeed, and prepared our dinners. The shore +was low, but above the reach of all floods; the soil was rich, and +superficially sandy. It was covered with high grasses, and abounded in +kangaroos; within the space of a few yards we found five or six, but they +were immediately lost to us and to the dogs in the luxuriance of the +vegetation amidst which they were feeding. + +As soon as we had finished our meal, we once more embarked, and stood +along the shore to the S.W., but the lake was so shoal, that I was every +moment apprehensive we should ground. I ran across, therefore, to the +south, towards a low flat that had just appeared above the line of the +horizon, in hope that, in sounding, we should have found the channel, but +there either was none, or else it was so narrow that we passed over it +between the heaves of the lead. At this time, the western shore was quite +distinct, and the scenery was beautiful. + +The flat we were approaching was a mud-flat, and, from its appearance, the +tide was certainly at the ebb. We observed some cradles, or wicker frames, +placed far below high water-mark, that were each guarded by two natives, +who threatened us violently as we approached. In running along the land, +the stench from them plainly indicated what they were which these poor +creatures were so anxiously watching. + +We steered a S.W. course, towards some low and wooded hills, passing a +rocky island, and found that we had struck the mouth of a channel running +to the W.S.W. It was about half-a-mile wide, was bounded to the right by +some open flat ground, and to the left by a line of hills of about sixty +or seventy feet in elevation, partly open and partly covered with +beefwood. + +WARLIKE DEMEANOUR OF THE NATIVES. + +Upon the first of these hills, we observed a large body of natives, who +set up the most terrific yells as we approached. They were fully equipped +for battle and, as we neared the shore, came down to meet us with the most +violent threats. I wished much to communicate with them, and, not without +hopes of quieting them, stood right in with the intention of landing. +I observed, however, that if I did so, I should have to protect myself. +I hauled a little off, and endeavoured, by holding up a branch and a +tomahawk, to gain their confidence, but they were not to be won over by +my show of pacification. An elderly man walked close to the water's edge +unarmed, and, evidently, directed the others. He was followed by seven or +eight of the most daring, who crept into the reeds, with their spears +shipped to throw at us. I, therefore, took up my gun to return their +salute. It then appeared that they were perfectly aware of the weapon I +carried, for the moment they saw it, they dashed out of their hiding place +and retreated to the main body; but the old man, after saying something +to them, walked steadily on, and I, on my part, laid my firelock down +again. + +LOVELY EVENING. + +It was now near sunset; and one of the most lovely evenings I had ever +seen. The sun's radiance was yet upon the mountains, but all lower objects +were in shade. The banks of the channel, with the trees and the rocks, +were reflected in the tranquil waters, whose surface was unruffled save by +the thousands of wild fowl that rose before us, and made a noise as of a +multitude clapping hands, in their clumsy efforts to rise from the waters. +Not one of them allowed us to get within shot. + +We proceeded about a mile below the hill on which the natives were posted; +some few still following us with violent threats. We landed, however, on a +flat, bounded all round by the continuation of the hills. It was an +admirable position, for, in the centre of it, we could not be taken by +surprise, and, on the other hand, we gave the natives an opportunity of +communicating with us if they would. The full moon rose as we were forming +the camp, and, notwithstanding our vicinity to so noisy a host, the +silence of death was around us, or the stillness of the night was only +broken by the roar of the ocean, now too near to be mistaken for wind, +or by the silvery and melancholy note of the black swans as they passed +over us, to seek for food, no doubt, among the slimy weeds at the head of +the lake. We had been quite delighted with the beauty of the channel, +which was rather more than half-a-mile in width. Numberless mounds, that +seemed to invite civilised man to erect his dwelling upon them, presented +themselves to our view. The country round them was open, yet ornamentally +wooded, and rocks and trees hung or drooped over the waters. + +EXTENT OF THE LAKE. + +We had in one day gained a position I once feared it would have cost us +infinite labour to have measured. Indeed, had we been obliged to pull +across the lake, unless during a calm, I am convinced the men would have +been wholly exhausted. We had to thank a kind Providence that such was not +the case, since it had extended its mercy to us at so critical a moment. +We had indeed need of all the little strength we had remaining, and could +ill have thrown it away on such an effort as this would have required. +I calculated that we could not have run less than forty-five miles during +the day, a distance that, together with the eight miles we had advanced +the evening previously, would give the length of the lake at fifty-three +miles. + +We had approached to within twelve miles of the ranges, but had not gained +their southern extremity. From the camp, Mount Barker bore nearly north. +The ranges appeared to run north and south to our position, and then to +bend away to the S.S.W., gradually declining to that point, which I +doubted not terminated in Cape Jervis. The natives kept aloof during the +night, nor did the dogs by a single growl intimate that any had ventured +to approach us. The sound of the surf came gratefully to our ears, for it +told us we were near the goal for which we had so anxiously pushed, and we +all of us promised ourselves a view of the boundless ocean on the morrow. + +CHANNEL TO THE SEA--ITS SHALLOWNESS. + +As the morning dawned, we saw that the natives had thrown an out-post of +sixteen men across the channel, who were watching our motions; but none +showed themselves on the hills behind us, or on any part of the south +shore. We embarked as soon as we had breakfasted, A fresh breeze was +blowing from the N.E. which took us rapidly down the channel, and our +prospects appeared to be as cheering as the day, for just as we were about +to push from the shore, a seal rose close to the boat, which we all +regarded as a favourable omen. We were, however, shortly stopped by +shoals; it was in vain that we beat across the channel from one side to +the other; it was a continued shoal, and the deepest water appeared to be +under the left bank. The tide, however, had fallen, and exposed broad +flats, over which it was hopeless, under existing circumstances, to haul +the boat. We again landed on the south side of the channel, patiently to +await the high water. + +M'Leay, myself, and Fraser, ascended the hills, and went to the opposite +side to ascertain the course of the channel, for immediately above us it +turned south round the hills. We there found that we were on a narrow +tongue of land. The channel was immediately below us, and continued to the +E.S.E. as far as we could trace it. The hills we were upon, were the sandy +hills that always bound a coast that is low, and were covered with +banksias, casuarina and the grass-tree. + +To the south of the channel there was a flat, backed by a range of +sand-hummocks, that were covered with low shrubs; and beyond them the sea +was distinctly visible. We could not have been more than two and a half +miles from the beach where we stood. + +Notwithstanding the sandy nature of the soil, the fossil formation again +showed itself, not only on these hills, but also on the rocks that were in +the channel. + +A little before high water we again embarked. A seal had been observed +playing about, and we augured well from such an omen. The blacks had been +watching us from the opposite shore, and as soon as we moved, rose to keep +abreast of us. With all our efforts we could not avoid the shoals. We +walked up to our knees in mud and water, to find the least variation in +the depth of the water so as to facilitate our exertions, but it was to no +purpose. We were ultimately obliged to drag the boat over the flats; there +were some of them a quarter of a mile in breadth, knee-deep in mud; but at +length got her into deep water again. The turn of the channel was now +before us, and we had a good run for about four or five miles. We had +completed the bend, and the channel now stretched to the E.S.E. At about +nine miles from us there was a bright sand-hill visible, near which the +channel seemed to turn again to the south; and I doubted not that it +terminated there. It was to no purpose, however, that we tried to gain it. +Shoals again closed in upon us on every side. We dragged the boat over +several, and at last got amongst quicksands. I, therefore, directed our +efforts to hauling the boat over to the south side of the channel, as that +on which we could most satisfactorily ascertain our position. After great +labour we succeeded, and, as evening had closed in, lost no time in +pitching the tents. + +BEACH OF ENCOUNTER BAY. + +While the men were thus employed, I took Fraser with me, and, accompanied +by M'Leay, crossed the sand-hummocks behind us, and descended to the +sea-shore. I found that we had struck the south coast deep in the bight +of Encounter Bay. We had no time for examination, but returned immediately +to the camp, as I intended to give the men an opportunity to go to the +beach. They accordingly went and bathed, and returned not only highly +delighted at this little act of good nature on my part, but loaded with +cockles, a bed of which they had managed to find among the sand. Clayton +had tied one end of his shirt up, and brought a bag full, and amused +himself with boiling cockles all night long. + +If I had previously any hopes of being enabled ultimately to push the boat +over the flats that were before us, a view of the channel at low water, +convinced me of the impracticability of any further attempt. The water was +so low that every shoal was exposed, and many stretched directly from one +side of the channel to the other; and, but for the treacherous nature of +the sand-banks, it would not have been difficult to have walked over dry +footed to the opposite side of it. The channel stretched away to the +E.S.E., to a distance of seven or eight miles, when it appeared to turn +south under a small sand-hill, upon which the rays of the sun fell, as it +was sinking behind us. + +CURIOUS EFFECT OF REFRACTION. + +There was an innumerable flock of wild-fowl arranged in rows along the +sides of the pools left by the tide, and we were again amused by the +singular effect of the refraction upon them, and the grotesque and +distorted forms they exhibited. Swans, pelicans, ducks, and geese, were +mingled together, and, according to their distance from us, presented +different appearances. Some were exceedingly tall and thin, others were +unnaturally broad. Some appeared reversed, or as if they were standing on +their heads, and the slightest motion, particularly the flapping of their +wings, produced a most ridiculous effect. No doubt, the situation and the +state of the atmosphere were favourable to the effect I have described. +The day had been fine, the evening was beautiful,--but it was the +rarefaction of the air immediately playing on the ground, and not the +haze at sunset that caused what I have noticed. It is distinct from +mirage, although it is difficult to point out the difference. The one, +however, distorts, the other conceals objects, and gives them a false +distance. The one is clear, the other is cloudy. The one raises objects +above their true position, the other does not. The one plays about, the +other is steady; but I cannot hope to give a proper idea either of mirage +or refraction so satisfactorily as I could wish. Many travellers have +dwelt upon their effects, particularly upon those of the former, but few +have attempted to account for them. + +Our situation was one of peculiar excitement and interest. To our right +the thunder of the heavy surf, that almost shook the ground beneath us, +broke with increasing roar upon our ears; to our left the voice of the +natives echoed through the brush, and the size of their fires at the +extremity of the channel, seemed to indicate the alarm our appearance had +occasioned. + +CRITICAL SITUATION OF THE PARTY. + +While the men were enjoying their cockles, a large kettle of which they +had boiled, M'Leay and I were anxiously employed in examining the state of +our provisions, and in ascertaining what still remained. Flour and tea +were the only articles we had left, so that the task was not a difficult +one. It appeared that we had not sufficient of either to last us to +Pondebadgery, at which place we expected to find supplies; and, taking +every thing into consideration, our circumstances were really critical. + +The first view of Encounter Bay had convinced me that no vessel would ever +venture into it at a season when the S.W. winds prevailed. It was +impossible that we could remain upon the coast in expectation of the +relief that I doubted not had been hurried off for us; since +disappointment would have sealed our fate at once. In the deep bight in +which we were, I could not hope that any vessel would approach +sufficiently near to be seen by us. Our only chance of attracting notice +would have been by crossing the Ranges to the Gulf St. Vincent, but the +men had not strength to walk, and I hesitated to divide my party in the +presence of a determined and numerous enemy, who closely watched our +motions. Setting aside the generous feelings that had prompted M'Leay to +participate in every danger with me, and who I am persuaded would have +deeply felt a separation, my anxiety not only on his account, but on +account of the men I might leave in charge of the boat, made me averse to +this measure; the chance of any misfortune to them involving in it the +destruction of our boat and the loss of our provisions. My anxiety of mind +would have rendered me unfit for exertion; yet so desirous was I of +examining the ranges and the country at their base, that I should, had our +passage to the salt water been uninterrupted, have determined on coasting +it homewards, or of steering for Launceston; and most assuredly, with my +present experience, I would rather incur the hazards of so desperate a +step, than contend against all the evils that beset us on out homeward +journey. And the reader may rest assured, I was as much without hopes of +our eventual safety, as I was astonished, at the close of our labours, to +find that they had terminated so happily. + +INSPECTION OF THE CHANNEL FROM THE LAKE TO THE OCEAN. + +Further exertion on the part of the men being out of the question, I +determined to remain no longer on the coast than to enable me to trace the +channel to its actual junction with the sea, and to ascertain the features +of the coast at that important point. I was reluctant to exhaust the +strength of the men in dragging the boat over the numberless flats that +were before us, and made up my mind to walk along the shore until I should +gain the outlet. I at length arranged that M'Leay, I, and Fraser, should +start on this excursion, at the earliest dawn, leaving Harris and +Hopkinson in charge of the camp; for as we were to go towards the position +of the natives, I thought it improbable they would attack the camp without +my being instantly aware of it. + +We had, as I have said, intended starting at the earliest dawn, but the +night was so clear and refreshing, and the moon so bright that we +determined to avail ourselves of both, and accordingly left the tents at +3 a.m. I directed Harris to strike them at 8, and to have every thing in +readiness for our departure at that hour. We then commenced our +excursion, and I led my companions rapidly along the shore of Encounter +Bay, after crossing the sand-hills about a mile below the camp. After a +hasty and distressing walk of about seven miles, we found that the +sand-hills terminated, and a low beach spread before us. The day was just +breaking, and at the distance of a mile from us we saw the sand-hill I +have already had occasion to notice, and at about a quarter of a mile from +its base, we were checked by the channel; which, as I rightly conjectured, +being stopped in its easterly course by some rising ground, the tongue of +land on which the blacks were posted, suddenly turns south, and, striking +this sand-hill, immediately enters the sea; and we noticed, in the bight +under the rising ground, that the natives had lit a chain of small fires. +This was, most probably, a detached party watching our movements, as they +could, from where they were posted, see our camp. + +At the time we arrived at the end of the channel, the tide had turned, and +was again setting in. The entrance appeared to me to be somewhat less than +a quarter of a mile in breadth. Under the sand-hill on the off side, the +water is deep and the current strong. No doubt, at high tide, a part of +the low beach we had traversed is covered. The mouth of the channel is +defended by a double line of breakers, amidst which, it would be +dangerous to venture, except in calm and summer weather; and the line of +foam is unbroken from one end of Encounter Bay to the other. Thus were our +fears of the impracticability and inutility of the channel of +communication between the lake and the ocean confirmed. + +DIFFICULTIES AND DANGERS OF THE RETURN. + +I would fain have lingered on my way, to examine, as far as circumstances +would permit, the beautiful country between the lake and the ranges; and +it was with heart-felt sorrow that I yielded to necessity. My men were +indeed very weak from poverty of diet and from great bodily fatigue. +Hopkinson, Mulholland, and Macnamee were miserably reduced. The two +former, especially, had exerted themselves beyond their strength, and +although I am confident they would have obeyed my orders to the last, +I did not feel myself justified, considering the gigantic task we had +before us, to impose additional labour upon them. + +It will be borne in mind that our difficulties were just about to +commence, when those of most other travellers have ceased; and that +instead of being assisted by the stream whose course we had followed, we +had now to contend against the united waters of the eastern ranges, +with diminished strength, and, in some measure, with disappointed +feelings. + +Under the most favourable circumstances, it was improbable that the men +would be enabled to pull for many days longer in succession; since they +had not rested upon their oars for a single day, if I except our passage +across the lake, from the moment when we started from the depot; nor was +it possible for me to buoy them up with the hope even of a momentary +cessation from labour. We had calculated the time to which our supply of +provisions would last under the most favourable circumstances, and it was +only in the event of our pulling up against the current, day after day, +the same distance we had compassed with the current in our favour, that we +could hope they would last us as long as we continued in the Murray. +But in the event of floods, or any unforeseen delay, in was impossible +to calculate at what moment we might be driven to extremity. + +Independent of these casualties, there were other circumstances of peril +to be taken into consideration. As I have already observed, I foresaw +great danger in again running through the natives. I had every reason to +believe that many of the tribes with which we had communicated on +apparently friendly terms, regretted having allowed us to pass unmolested; +nor was I at all satisfied as to the treatment we might receive from them, +when unattended by the envoys who had once or twice controlled their fury. +Our best security, therefore, against the attacks of the natives was +celerity of movement; and the men themselves seemed to be perfectly aware +of the consequences of delay. Our provisions, moreover, being calculated +to last to a certain point only, the slightest accident, the staving-in +of the boat, or the rise of the river, would inevitably be attended with +calamity. To think of reducing our rations of only three quarters of a +pound of flour per diem, was out of the question, or to hope that the men, +with less sustenance than that, would perform the work necessary to ensure +their safety, would have been unreasonable. It was better that our +provisions should hold out to a place from which we might abandon the boat +with some prospect of reaching by an effort a stock station, or the plain +on which Robert Harris was to await our return, than that they should be +consumed before the half of our homeward journey should be accomplished. +Delay, therefore, under our circumstances, would have been imprudent +and unjustifiable. + + +PATIENCE OF THE MEN--RE-ENTER THE MURRAY. +On the other hand, it was sufficiently evident to me, that the men were +too much exhausted to perform the task that was before them without +assistance, and that it would be necessary both for M'Leay and myself, +to take our share of labour at the oars. The cheerfulness and satisfaction +that my young friend evinced at the opportunity that was thus afforded him +of making himself useful, and of relieving those under him from some +portion of their toil, at the same time that they increased my sincere +esteem for him, were nothing more than what I expected from one who had +endeavoured by every means in his power to contribute to the success of +that enterprise upon which he had embarked. But although I have said thus +much of the exhausted condition of the men,--and ere these pages are +concluded my readers will feel satisfied as to the truth of my +statement--I would by no means be understood to say that they flagged for +a moment, or that a single murmur escaped them. No reluctance was visible, +no complaint was heard, but there was that in their aspect and appearance +which they could not hide, and which I could not mistake. My object in +dwelling so long upon this subject has been to point out our situation and +our feelings when we re-entered the Murray. The only circumstance that +appeared to be in our favour was the prevalence of the south-west wind, +by which I hoped we should be assisted in running up the first broad +reaches of that river. I could not but acknowledge the bounty of that +Providence, which had favoured us in our passage across the lake, and I +was led to hope that its merciful superintendance would protect us from +evil, and would silently direct us where human foresight and prudence +failed. We re-entered the river on the 13th under as fair prospects as +we would have desired. The gale which had blown with such violence in the +morning gradually abated, and a steady breeze enabled us to pass our first +encampment by availing ourselves of it as long as day light continued. +Both the valley and the river showed to advantage as we approached them, +and the scenery upon our left (the proper right bank of the Murray) +was really beautiful. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + + +Valley of the Murray--Its character and capabilities--Laborious progress +up the river--Accident to the boat--Perilous collision with the natives +--Turbid current of the Rufus--Passage of the Rapids--Assisted by the +natives--Dangerous intercourse with them--Re-enter the Morumbidgee-- +Verdant condition of its banks--Nocturnal encounter with the natives-- +Interesting manifestation of feeling in one family--Reach the spot where +the party had embarked on the river--Men begin to fail entirely-- +Determine to send two men forward for relief--Their return--Excursion on +horseback--Reach Pondebadgery Plain, and meet the supplies from the +colony--Cannibalism of the natives--Return to Sydney--Concluding remarks. + +VALLEY OF THE MURRAY. + +The valley of the Murray, at its entrance, cannot be less than four miles +in breadth. The river does not occupy the centre but inclines to either +side, according to its windings, and thus the flats are of greater or less +extent, according to the distance of the river from the base of the hills. +It is to be remarked, that the bottom of the valley is extremely level, +and extensively covered with reeds. From the latter circumstance, one +would be led to infer that these flats are subject to overflow, and no +doubt can exist as to the fact of their being, at least partially, if not +wholly, under water at times. A country in a state of nature is, however, +so different from one in a state of cultivation, that it is hazardous to +give an opinion as to its practical availableness, if I may use such a +term. I should, undoubtedly, say the marshes of the Macquarie were +frequently covered with water, and that they were wholly unfit for any one +purpose whatever. It is evident from the marks of the reeds upon the +banks, that the flood covers them occasionally to the depth of three feet, +and the reeds are so densely embodied and so close to the river side that +the natives cannot walk along it. The reeds are the broad flag-reed +(arundo phragmatis), and grow on a stiff earthy loam, without any +accompanying vegetation; indeed, they form so solid a mass that the sun +cannot penetrate to the ground to nourish vegetation. On the other hand, +the valley of the Murray, though covered with reeds in most places, is not +so in all. There is no mark upon the reeds by which to judge as to the +height of inundation, neither are they of the same kind as those which +cover the marshes of the Macquarie. They are the species of round reed of +which the South-sea islanders make their arrows, and stand sufficiently +open, not only to allow of a passage through, but for the abundant growth +of grass among them. Still, I have no doubt that parts of the valley are +subject to flood; but, as I have already remarked, I do not know whether +these parts are either deeply or frequently covered. Rain must fall +simultaneously in the S.E. angle of the island in the inter-tropical +regions, and at the heads of all the tributaries of the main stream, ere +its effects can be felt in the lower parts of the Murray. If the valley of +the Murray is not subject to flood, it has only recently gained a height +above the influence of the river, and still retains all the character of +flooded land. In either case, however, it contains land that is of the +very richest kind--soil that is the pure accumulation of vegetable matter, +and is as black as ebony. If its hundreds of thousands of acres were +practically available, I should not hesitate to pronounce it one of the +richest spots of equal extent on earth, and highly favoured in other +respects. How far it is available remains to be proved; and an opinion +upon either side would be hazardous, although that of its liability to +flood would, most probably, be nearest to truth. It is, however, certain +that any part of the valley would require much labour before it could be +brought under cultivation, and that even its most available spots would +require almost as much trouble to clear them as the forest tract, for +nothing is more difficult to destroy than reeds. Breaking the sod would, +naturally, raise the level of the ground, and lateral drains would, most +probably, carry off all floods, but then the latter, at least, is the +operation of an advanced stage of husbandry only. I would, however, +observe that there are many parts of the valley decidedly above the reach +of flood. I have, in the above observations, been particularly alluding to +the lowest and broadest portions of it. I trust I shall be understood as +not wishing to over-rate this discovery on the one hand, or on the other, +to include its whole extent in one sweeping clause of condemnation. + +On the 14th, the wind still continued to blow fresh from the N.W. +It moderated at noon, and assisted us beyond measure. We passed our first +encampment, but did not see any natives. + +CORDIALITY OF THE NATIVES. + +On the 15th, the wind was variable at daylight, and a dense fog was on the +river. As the sun rose, it was dissipated and a light breeze sprung up +from W.S.W. We ran up the stream with a free sheet for six hours, when we +stopped for a short time to get the kettle boiled. Four natives joined us, +but with the exception of the lowest tribe upon the right bank, we had not +seen any number. We were extremely liberal to this tribe, in consequence +of the satisfaction they evinced at our return. We had alarmed them much +on our passage down the river by firing at a snake that was swimming +across it. We, at first, attempted to kill it with the boat-hook, but the +animal dived at our approach, and appeared again at a considerable +distance. Another such dive would have ensured his escape, but a shot +effectually checked him, and as the natives evinced considerable alarm, we +held him up, to show them the object of our proceedings. On our return, +they seemed to have forgotten their fright, and received us with every +demonstration of joy. The different receptions we met with from different +tribes are difficult to be accounted for. + +The country appeared to rise before us, and looked more hilly to the N.W. +than I had supposed it to be. Several fine valleys branched off from the +main one to the westward, and, however barren the heights that confined +them were, I am inclined to think, that the distant interior is fertile. +The marks of kangaroos were numerous, and the absence of the natives would +indicate that they have other and better means of subsisting in the back +country than what the river affords. + +In the evening, we again ran on for two hours and a half, and reached the +first of the cliffs. + +On the 16th, we were again fortunate in the wind, and pressed up the river +as long as day-light continued. At the termination of our journey, we +found ourselves a day's journey in advance. This inspirited the men, and +they began to forget the labours they had gone through, as well as those +that were before them. + +On the 17th, we again commenced pulling, the wind being at north, and +contrary. It did not, however, remain in that quarter long, but backed at +noon to the S.W., so that we were enabled to make a good day's journey, +and rather gained than lost ground. + +REMARKABLE CLIFF--GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. + +Having left the undulating hills, at the mouth of the valley behind us, +we passed cliff after cliff of fossil formation: they had a uniform +appearance as to the substance of which they were composed, and varied +but little in colour. Having already examined them, we thought it +unnecessary to give them any further special attention, since it was +improbable we should find anything new. In turning an angle of the river, +however, a broad reach stretched away before us. An alluvial flat extended +to our left, and a high line of cliffs, that differed in no visible +respect from those we had already passed, rose over the opposite side of +the river. The cliffs faced the W.N.W., and as the sun declined, his beams +struck full upon them. As we shot past, we were quite dazzled with the +burst of light that flashed upon us, and which gave to the whole face of +the cliff the appearance of a splendid mirror. The effect was of course +momentary; for as soon as we had passed the angle of refraction, there was +nothing unusual in its appearance. On a nearer approach, however, it +appeared again as if studded with stars. We had already determined on +examining it more closely, and this second peculiarity still further +excited our curiosity. On landing, we found the whole cliff to be a mass +of selenite, in which the various shells already noticed were plentifully +embedded, as in ice. The features of the cliff differed from any we had +previously remarked. Large masses, or blocks of square or oblong shape, +had fallen to its base, and its surface was hard, whereas the face of the +majority of the other cliffs was soft from the effect of the atmosphere; +and the rock was entirely free from every other substance, excepting the +shells of which it was composed. We of course collected some good +specimens, although they added very considerably to the weight of our +cargo. + +The morning of the 18th was calm and cloudless. The wind, of which there +was but little, came from the north, and was as usual warm. We availed +ourselves of a favourable spot to haul our boat on shore under one of the +cliffs upon the proper left of the river, and cleaned her well both +inside and out. + +LABORIOUS ASCENT OF THE BOAT. + +The breezes that had so much assisted as from the lake upwards, had now +lost their influence, or failed to reach to the distance we had gained. +Calms succeeded them, and obliged us to labour continually at the oars. +We lost ground fast, and it was astonishing to remark how soon the men's +spirits drooped again under their first efforts. They fancied the boat +pulled heavily, and that her bottom was foul; but such was not the case. +The current was not so strong as when we passed down, since the river had +evidently fallen more than a foot, and was so shallow in several places, +that we were obliged to haul the boat over them. On these occasions we +were necessarily obliged to get out of her into the water, and had +afterwards to sit still and to allow the sun to dry our clothes upon us. +The unemployed consequently envied those at the oars, as they sat +shivering in their dripping clothes. I was aware that it was more from +imagination than reality, that the men fancied the boat was unusually +heavy, but I hesitated not in humouring them, and rather entered into +their ideas than otherwise, and endeavoured to persuade them that she +pulled the lighter for the cleaning we gave her. + +A tribe of natives joined us, and we had the additional trouble of +guarding our stores. They were, however, very quiet, and as we had broken +up our casks, on leaving the coast, we were enabled to be liberal in our +presents of iron hoop, which they eagerly received. We calculated that we +should reach the principal junction in about fifteen days from this place. + +NATIVE BURIAL-PLACE. + +The natives left us to pursue our solitary journey as soon as the boat was +reloaded. Not one of them had the curiosity to follow us, nor did they +appear to think it necessary that we should be attended by envoys. We +stopped for the night upon the left bank; and close to a burial-ground +that differed from any I had ever seen. It must have been used many years, +from the number of bones that were found in the bank, but there were no +other indications of such a place either by mounds or by marks on the +trees. The fact, therefore, is a singular one. I have thought that some +battle might have been fought near the place, but I can hardly think one +of their battles could have been so destructive. + +IMPEDED BY SHOALS. + +We had now only to make the best of our journey, rising at dawn, and +pulling to seven and often to nine o'clock. I allowed the men an hour from +half-past eleven to half-past twelve, to take their bread and water. This +was our only fare, if I except an occasional wild duck; but these birds +were extremely difficult to kill, and it cost us so much time, that we +seldom endeavoured to procure any. Our dogs had been of no great use, and +were now too weak to have run after anything if they had seen either +kangaroos or emus; and for the fish, the men loathed them, and were either +too indifferent or too much fatigued to set the night-lines. Shoals +frequently impeded us as we proceeded up the river, and we passed some +rapids that called for our whole strength to stem. A light wind assisted +us on two or three of these occasions, and I never failed hoisting the +sail at every fitting opportunity. In some parts the river was extremely +shallow, and the sand-banks of amazing size; and the annoyance of dragging +the boat over these occasional bars, was very great. We passed several +tribes of blacks on the 19th and 20th; but did not stop to communicate +with them. + +I believe I have already mentioned that shortly after we first entered the +Murray, flocks of a new paroquet passed over our heads, apparently +emigrating to the N.W. They always kept too high to be fired at, but on +our return, hereabouts, we succeeded in killing one. It made a good +addition to our scanty stock of subjects of natural history. It is +impossible to conceive how few of the feathered tribe frequent these +distant and lonely regions. The common white cockatoo is the most +numerous, and there are also a few pigeons; but other birds descend only +for water, and are soon again upon the wing. Our botanical specimens were +as scanty as our zoological, indeed the expedition may, as regards these +two particulars, almost be said to have been unproductive. + +COMPILATION OF THE CHART. + +When we came down the river, I thought it advisable to lay its course down +as precisely as circumstances would permit: for for this purpose I had a +large compass always before me, and a sheet of foolscap paper. As soon as +we passed an angle of the river, I took the bearings of the reach before +us, and as we proceeded down it, marked off the description of country, +and any remarkable feature. The consequence was, that I laid down every +bend of the Murray River, from the Morumbidgee downwards. Its creeks, its +tributaries, its flats, its valleys, and its cliffs, and, as far as I +possibly could do, the nature of the distant interior. This chart was, +of course, erroneous in many particulars, since I had to judge the length +of the reaches of the river, and the extent of its angles, but I corrected +it on the scale of the miles of latitude we made during the day, which +brought out an approximate truth at all events. The hurried nature of our +journey would not allow me to do more; and it will be remembered that my +observations were all siderial, by reason that the sextant would not +embrace the sun in his almost vertical position at noon. Admitting, +however, the imperfection of this chart, it was of inconceivable value and +comfort to us on our return, for, by a reference to it, we discovered our +place upon the river, and our distance from our several encampments. +And we should often have stopped short of them had not the chart shown us +that a few reaches more would bring us to the desired spots. It cheered +the men to know where they were, and gave them conversation. To myself it +was very satisfactory, as it enabled me to prepare for our meetings with +the larger tribes, and to steer clear of obstacles in the more difficult +navigation of some parts of the stream. + +On the 21st, by dint of great labour we reached our camp of the 2nd +February, from which it will be remembered the Murray took up a southerly +course, and from which we likewise obtained a first view of the coast +ranges. The journey to the sea and back again, had consequently occupied +us twenty days. From this point we turned our boat's head homewards; we +made it, therefore, a fixed position among the stages into which we +divided our journey. Our attention was now directed to the junction of the +principal tributary, which we hoped to reach in twelve days, and +anticipated a close to our labours on the Murray in eight days more from +that stage to the Morumbidgee. + +CURRENT OF THE MURRAY. + +The current in the Murray from the lake, to within a short distance of +this singular turn in it, is weak, since its bed is almost on a level with +the lake. The channel, which, at the termination, is somewhat more than +the third of a mile across, gradually diminishes in breadth, as the +interior is gained, but is nowhere under 300 yards; while its depth +averages from eighteen to thirty feet, within a foot of the very bank. +The river might, therefore, be navigated by boats of considerable burden, +if the lake admitted of the same facility; but I am decidedly of opinion, +that the latter is generally shallow, and that it will, in the course of +years, be filled up by depositions. It is not, however, an estuary in any +sense of the word, since no part of it is exposed at low water, excepting +the flats in the channel, and the flat between the lake and the sea. + +ACCIDENT TO THE BOAT. + +On the 23rd, we stove the boat in for the first time. I had all along +anticipated such an accident, from the difficulty of avoiding obstacles, +in consequence of the turbid state of the river. Fortunately the boat +struck a rotten log. The piece remained in her side, and prevented her +filling, which she must, otherwise, inevitably have done, ere we could +have reached the shore. As it was, however, we escaped with a little +damage to the lower bags of flour only. She was hauled up on a sand bank, +and Clayton repaired her in less than two hours, when we reloaded her +and pursued our journey. It was impossible to have been more cautious than +we were, for I was satisfied as to the fate that would have overtaken the +whole of us in the event of our losing the boat, and was proportionably +vigilant. + +MOLESTED BY THE NATIVES. + +At half-past five we came to an island, which looked so inviting, and so +quiet, that I determined to land and sleep upon it. We consequently, ran +the boat into a little recess, or bay, and pitched the tents; and I +anticipated a respite from the presence of any natives, as did the men, +who were rejoiced at my having taken up so snug a berth. It happened, +however, that a little after sunset, a flight of the new paroquets +perched in the lofty trees that grew on the island, to roost; when we +immediately commenced the work of death, and succeeded in killing eight or +ten. The reports of our guns were heard by some natives up the river, and +several came over to us. Although I was annoyed at their having discovered +our retreat, they were too few to be troublesome. During the night, +however, they were joined by fresh numbers, amounting in all to about +eighty, and they were so clamorous, that it was impossible to sleep. + +NATIVES BECOME TROUBLESOME. + +As the morning broke, Hopkinson came to inform me that it was in vain that +the guard endeavoured to prevent them from handling every thing, and from +closing in round our camp. I went out, and from what I saw I thought it +advisable to double the sentries. M'Leay, who was really tired, being +unable to close his eyes amid such a din, got up in ill-humour, and went +to see into the cause, and to check it if he could. This, however, was +impossible. One man was particularly forward and insolent, at whom M'Leay, +rather imprudently, threw a piece of dirt. The savage returned the +compliment with as much good will as it had been given, and appeared quite +prepared to act on the offensive. At this critical moment my servant came +to the tent in which I was washing myself, and stated his fears that we +should soon come to blows, as the natives showed every disposition to +resist us. On learning what had passed between M'Leay and the savage, +I pretended to be equally angry with both, and with some difficulty forced +the greater part of the blacks away from the tents. I then directed the +men to gather together all the minor articles in the first instance, and +then to strike the tents; and, in order to check the natives, I drew a +line round the camp, over which I intimated to them they should not pass. +Observing, I suppose, that we were on our guard, and that I, whom they +well knew to be the chief, was really angry, they crept away one by one, +until the island was almost deserted by them. Why they did not attack us, +I know not, for they had certainly every disposition to do so, and had +their shorter weapons with them, which, in so confined a space as that on +which we were, would have been more fatal than their spears + +They left us, however; and a flight of red-crested cockatoos happening to +settle on a plain near the river, I crossed in the boat in order to shoot +one. The plain was upon the proper left bank of the Murray. The natives +had passed over to the right. As the one channel was too shallow for the +boat, when we again pursued our journey we were obliged to pull round to +the left side of the island. A little above it the river makes a bend to +the left, and the angle at this bend was occupied by a large shoal, +one point of which rested on the upper part of the island, and the other +touched the proper right bank of the river. Thus a narrow channel, +(not broader indeed than was necessary for the play of our oars,) alone +remained for us to pass up against a strong current. On turning round the +lower part of the island, we observed that the natives occupied the whole +extent of the shoal, and speckled it over like skirmishers. Many of them +had their spears, and their attention was evidently directed to us.--As we +neared the shoal, the most forward of them pressed close to the edge of +the deep water, so much so that our oars struck their legs. Still this did +not induce them to retire. I kept my eye on an elderly man who stood one +of the most forward, and who motioned to us several times to stop, and at +length threw the weapon he carried at the boat. I immediately jumped up +and pointed my gun at him to his great apparent alarm. Whether the natives +hoped to intimidate us by a show of numbers, or what immediate object they +had in view, it is difficult to say; though it was most probably to seize +a fitting opportunity to attack us. Seeing, I suppose, that we were not to +be checked, they crossed from the shoal to the proper right bank of the +river, and disappeared among the reeds that lined it. + +TREACHERY OF THE NATIVES. + +Shortly after this, eight of the women, whom we had not before noticed, +came down to the water side, and gave us the most pressing invitation to +land. Indeed they played their part uncommonly well, and tried for some +time to allure us by the most unequivocal manifestations of love. +Hopkinson however who always had his eyes about him, observed the spears +of the men among the reeds. They kept abreast of us as we pulled up the +stream, and, no doubt, were anticipating our inability to resist the +temptations they had thrown in our way. I was really provoked at their +barefaced treachery, and should most undoubtedly have attacked them, had +they not precipitately retreated on being warned by the women that I was +arming my men, which I had only now done upon seeing such strong +manifestations of danger. M'Leay set the example of coolness on this +occasion; and I had some doubts whether I was justified in allowing the +natives to escape with impunity, considering that if they had wounded any +one of us the most melancholy and fatal results would have ensued. + +We did not see anything more of the blacks during the rest of the day, +but the repeated indications of hostility we perceived as we approached +the Darling, made me apprehensive as to the reception we should meet from +its numerous population; and I was sorry to observe that the men +anticipated danger in passing that promising junction. + +Having left the sea breezes behind us, the weather had become oppressive; +and as the current was stronger, and rapids more numerous, our labour was +proportionably increased. We perspired to an astonishing degree, and gave +up our oars after our turn at them, with shirts and clothes as wet as if +we had been in the water. Indeed Mulholland and Hopkinson, who worked +hard, poured a considerable quantity of perspiration from their shoes +after their task. The evil of this was that we were always chilled after +rowing, and, of course, suffered more than we should otherwise have done. + +RE-PASS THE LINDESAY. + +On the 25th we passed the last of the cliffs composing the great fossil +bed through which the Murray flows, and entered that low country already +described as being immediately above it. On a more attentive examination +of the distant interior, my opinion as to its flooded origin was +confirmed, more especially in reference to the country to the S.E. On the +30th we passed the mouth of the Lindesay, and from the summit of the sand +hills to the north of the Murray overlooked the flat country, through +which I conclude it must run, from the line of fires we observed amid the +trees, and most probably upon its banks. + +We did not fall in with the natives in such numbers as when we passed down +to the coast: still they were in sufficient bodies to be troublesome. +It would, however, appear that the tribes do not generally frequent the +river. They must have a better country back from it, and most probably +linger amongst the lagoons and creeks where food is more abundant. The +fact is evident from the want of huts upon the banks of the Murray, and +the narrowness of the paths along its margin. + +RE-PASSED THE RUFUS. + +We experienced the most oppressive heat about this time. Calms generally +prevailed, and about 3 p.m. the sun's rays fell upon us with intense +effect. The waters of the Murray continued extremely muddy, a circumstance +we discovered to be owing to the turbid current of the Rufus, which we +passed on the 1st of March. It is, really, singular whence this little +stream originates. It will be remembered that I concluded it must have +been swollen by rains when we first saw it; yet, after an absence of more +than three weeks we found it discharging its waters as muddy as ever into +the main stream; and that, too, in such quantities as to discolour its +waters to the very lake. The reader will have some idea of the force of +the current in both, when I assure him that for nearly fifty yards below +the mouth of the Rufus, the waters of the Murray preserve their +transparency, and the line between them and the turbid waters of its +tributary was as distinctly marked as if drawn by a pencil. Indeed, +the higher we advanced, the more did we feel the strength of the current, +against which we had to pull. + +DIFFICULTIES AT THE RAPIDS. + +A little below the Lindesay, a rapid occurs. It was with the utmost +difficulty that we stemmed it with the four oars upon the boat, and the +exertion of our whole strength. We remained, at one time, perfectly +stationary, the force we employed and that of the current being equal. +We at length ran up the stream obliquely; but it was evident the men were +not adequate to such exertion for any length of time. We pulled that day +for eleven successive hours, in order to avoid a tribe of natives who +followed us. Hopkinson and Fraser fell asleep at their oars, and even the +heavy Clayton appeared to labour. + +We again occupied our camp under the first remarkable cliffs of the +Murray, a description of which has been given in page 128 of this work. +[GEOLOGICAL EXAMINATION.] Their summit, as I have already remarked forms a +table land of some elevation. From it the distant interior to the S.S.E. +appears very depressed; that to the north undulates more. In neither +quarter, however, does any bright foliage meet the eye, to tell that a +better soil is under it; but a dark and gloomy vegetation occupies both +the near and distant ground, in proof that the sandy sterile tracts, +succeeding the river deposits, stretch far away without a change. + +A little above our camp of the 28th of January, we fell in with a large +tribe of natives, whose anxiety to detain us was remarkable. The wind, +however, which, from the time we lost the sea breezes, had hung to the +S.E., had changed to the S.W., and we were eagerly availing ourselves of +it. It will not he supposed we stopped even for a moment. In truth we +pressed on with great success, and did not land to sleep until nine +o'clock. As long as the wind blew from the S.W., the days were cool, and +the sky overcast even so much so as to threaten rain. + +The least circumstance, in our critical situation, naturally raised my +apprehensions, and I feared the river would be swollen in the event of +any heavy rains in the hilly country; I hoped, however, we should gain the +Morumbidgee before such a calamity should happen to us, and it became +my object to press for that river without delay. + +OBSTACLES TO THE NAVIGATION--DANGEROUS RAPIDS. + +Although we had met with frequent rapids in our progress upwards, they had +not been of a serious kind, nor such as would affect the navigation of the +river. The first direct obstacle of this kind occurs a little above a +small tributary that falls into the Murray from the north, between the +Rufus and the cliffs we have alluded to. At this place a reef of coarse +grit contracts the channel of the river. No force we could have exerted +with the oars would have taken us up this rapid; but we accomplished the +task easily by means of a rope which we hauled upon, on the same principle +that barges are dragged by horses along the canals. + +As we neared the junction of the two main streams, the country, on both +sides of the river, became low, and its general appearance confirmed the +opinion I have already given as to its flooded origin. The clouds that +obscured the sky, and had threatened to burst for some time, at length +gave way, and we experienced two or three days of heavy rain. In the midst +of it we passed the second stage of our journey, and found the spot lately +so crowded with inhabitants totally deserted. A little above it we +surprised a small tribe in a temporary shelter; but neither our offers nor +presents could prevail on any of them to expose themselves to the torrent +that was falling. They sat shivering in their bark huts in evident +astonishment at our indifference. We threw them some trifling presents and +were glad to proceed unattended by any of them. + +PERILOUS ASCENT OF THE RAPIDS. + +It will he remembered that in passing down the river, the boat was placed +in some danger in descending a rapid before we reached the junction of the +Murray with the stream supposed by me to be the Darling. We were now +gradually approaching the rapid, nor did I well know how we should +surmount such an obstacle. Strength to pull up it we had not, and I feared +our ropes would not be long enough to reach to the shore over some of the +rocks, since it descended in minor declivities to a considerable distance +below the principal rapid, in the centre of which the boat had struck. +We reached the commencement of these rapids on the 6th, and ascended the +first by means of ropes, which were hauled upon by three of the men from +the bank; and, as the day was pretty far advanced, we stopped a little +above it, that we might attempt the principal rapid before we should be +exhausted by previous exertion. It was fortunate that we took such a +precaution. The morning of the 7th proved extremely dark, and much rain +fell. We commenced our journey in the midst of it, and soon gained the +tail of the rapid. Our attempt to pull up it completely failed. The boat, +as soon as she entered the ripple, spun round like a toy, and away we went +with the stream. As I had anticipated, our ropes were too short; and it +only remained for us to get into the water, and haul the boat up by main +force. We managed pretty well at first, and drew her alongside a rock to +rest a little. We then recommenced our efforts, and had got into the +middle of the channel. We were up to our armpits in the water, and only +kept our position by means of rocks beside us. The rain was falling, as if +we were in a tropical shower, and the force of the current was such, that +if we had relaxed for an instant, we should have lost all the ground we +had gained. Just at this moment, however, without our being aware of their +approach, a large tribe of natives, with their spears, lined the bank, +and took us most completely by surprise. At no time during this anxious +journey were we ever so completely in their power, or in so defenceless a +situation. It rained so hard, that our firelocks would have been of no +use, and had they attacked us, we must necessarily have been slaughtered +without committing the least execution upon them. Nothing, therefore, +remained for us but to continue our exertions. It required only one +strong effort to get the boat into still water for a time, but that effort +was beyond our strength, and we stood in the stream, powerless and +exhausted. + +ASSISTED BY THE NATIVES. + +The natives, in the meanwhile, resting on their spears, watched us with +earnest attention. One of them, who was sitting close to the water, at +length called to us, and we immediately recognised the deep voice of him +to whose singular interference we were indebted for our escape on the +23rd of January. I desired Hopkinson to swim over to him, and to explain +that we wanted assistance. This was given without hesitation; and we at +length got under the lea of the rock, which I have already described as +being in the centre of the river. The natives launched their bark canoes, +the only frail means they possess of crossing the rivers with their +children. These canoes are of the simplest construction and rudest +materials, being formed of an oblong piece of bark, the ends of which are +stuffed with clay, so as to render them impervious to the water. With +several of these they now paddled round us with the greatest care, making +their spears, about ten feet in length,(which they use at once as poles +and paddles,) bend nearly double in the water. We had still the most +difficult part of the rapid to ascend, where the rush of water was the +strongest, and where the decline of the bed almost amounted to a fall. +Here the blacks could be of no use to us. No man could stem the current, +supposing it to have been shallow at the place, but it was on the contrary +extremely deep. Remaining myself in the boat, I directed all the men to +land, after we had crossed the stream, upon a large rock that formed the +left buttress as it were to this sluice, and, fastening the rope to the +mast instead of her head, they pulled upon it. The unexpected rapidity +with which the boat shot up the passage astonished me, and filled the +natives with wonder, who testified their admiration of so dextrous a +manoeuvre, by a loud shout. + +It will, no doubt, have struck the reader as something very remarkable, +that the same influential savage to whom we had already been indebted, +should have been present on this occasion, and at a moment when we so much +needed his assistance. Having surmounted our difficulties, we took leave +of this remarkable man, and pursued our journey up the river. + +It may be imagined we did not proceed very far; the fact was, we only +pushed forward to get rid of the natives, for, however pacific, they were +always troublesome, and we were seldom fitted for a trial of temper after +the labours of the day were concluded. The men had various occupations +in which, when the natives were present, they were constantly interrupted, +and whenever the larger tribes slept near us, the utmost vigilance was +necessary on the part of the night-guard, which was regularly mounted as +soon as the tents were pitched. We had had little else than our flour to +subsist on. Hopkinson and Harris endeavoured to supply M'Leay and myself +with a wild fowl occasionally, but for themselves, and the other men, +nothing could be procured to render their meal more palatable. + +GOOD CONDUCT OF THE MEN. + +I have omitted to mention one remarkable trait of the good disposition of +all the men while on the coast. Our sugar had held out to that point; but +it appeared, when we examined the stores, that six pounds alone remained +in the cask. This the men positively refused to touch. They said that, +divided, it would benefit nobody; that they hoped M'Leay and I would use +it, that it would last us for some time, and that they were better able to +submit to privations than we were. The feeling did them infinite credit, +and the circumstance is not forgotten by me. The little supply the +kindness of our men left to us was, however, soon exhausted, and poor +M'Leay preferred pure water to the bitter draught that remained. I have +been some times unable to refrain from smiling, as I watched the distorted +countenances of my humble companions while drinking their tea and eating +their damper. + +The ducks and swans, seen in such myriads on the lake, seldom appeared on +the river, in the first stages of our journey homewards. About the time of +which I am writing, however, a few swans occasionally flew over our heads +at night, and their silvery note was musically sweet. + +From the 10th to the 15th, nothing of moment occurred: we pulled regularly +from day-light to dark, not less to avoid the natives than to shorten our +journey. Yet, notwithstanding that we moved at an hour when the natives +seldom stir, we were rarely without a party of them, who followed us in +spite of our efforts to tire them out. + +MOLESTED BY NATIVES. + +On the 15th, we had about 150 at our camp. Many of them were extremely +noisy, and the whole of them very restless. They lay down close to the +tents, or around our fire. I entertained some suspicion of them, and when +they were apparently asleep, I watched them narrowly. Macnamee was walking +up and down with his firelock, and every time he turned his back, one of +the natives rose gently up and poised his spear at him, and as soon as +he thought Macnamee was about to turn, he dropped as quietly into his +place. When I say the native got up, I do not mean that he stood up, but +that he raised himself sufficiently for the purpose he had in view. His +spear would not, therefore, have gone with much force, but I determined +it should not quit his hand, for had I observed any actual attempt to +throw it, I should unquestionably have shot him dead upon the spot. +The whole of the natives were awake, and it surprised me they did not +attempt to plunder us. They rose with the earliest dawn, and crowded round +the tents without any hesitation. We, consequently, thought it prudent to +start as soon as we had breakfasted. + +FRASER IN DANGER. + +We had all of us got into the boat, when Fraser remembered he had left his +powder-horn on shore. In getting out to fetch it, he had to push through +the natives. On his return, when his back was towards them, several +natives lifted their spears together, and I was so apprehensive they +would have transfixed him, that I called out before I seized my gun; on +which they lowered their weapons and ran away. The disposition to commit +personal violence was evident from these repeated acts of treachery; and +we should doubtless have suffered from it on some occasion or other, had +we not been constantly on the alert. + +We had been drawing nearer the Morumbidgee every day. This was the last +tribe we saw on the Murray; and the following afternoon, to our great joy, +we quitted it and turned our boat into the gloomy and narrow channel of +its tributary. Our feelings were almost as strong when we re-entered it, +as they had been when we were launched from it into that river, on whose +waters we had continued for upwards of fifty-five days; during which +period, including the sweeps and bends it made, we could not have +travelled less than 1500 miles. + +Our provisions were now running very short; we had, however, "broken the +neck of our journey," as the men said, and we looked anxiously to gaining +the depot; for we were not without hopes that Robert Harris would have +pushed forward to it with his supplies. We were quite puzzled on entering +the Morumbidgee, how to navigate its diminutive bends and its encumbered +channel. I thought poles would have been more convenient than oars; we +therefore stopped at an earlier hour than usual to cut some. Calling to +mind the robbery practised on us shortly after we left the depot, my mind +became uneasy as to Robert Harris's safety, since I thought it probable, +from the sulky disposition of the natives who had visited us there, that +he might have been attacked. Thus, when my apprehensions on our own +account had partly ceased, my fears became excited with regard to him and +his party. + +RE-ENTER THE MORUMBIDGEE. + +The country, to a considerable distance from the junction on either side +the Morumbidgee, is not subject to inundation. Wherever we landed upon its +banks, we found the calistemma in full flower, and in the richest +profusion. There was, also, an abundance of grass, where before there had +been no signs of vegetation, and those spots which we had condemned as +barren were now clothed with a green and luxuriant carpet. So difficult is +it to judge of a country on a partial and hurried survey, and so +differently does it appear at different periods. I was rejoiced to find +that the rains had not swollen the river, for I was apprehensive that +heavy falls had taken place in the mountains, and was unprepared for so +much good fortune. + +FEAST ON A SWAN. + +The poles we cut were of no great use to us, and we soon laid them aside, +and took to our oars. Fortune seemed to favour us exceedingly. The men +rallied, and we succeeded in killing a good fat swan, that served as a +feast for all. I imagine the absence of mud and weeds of every kind in +the Murray, prevents this bird from frequenting its waters. + +On the 18th, we found ourselves entering the reedy country, through which +we had passed with such doubt and anxiety. Every object elicited some +remark from the men, and I was sorry to find they reckoned with certainty +on seeing Harris at the depot, as I knew they would be proportionally +depressed in spirits if disappointed. However, I promised Clayton a good +repast as soon as we should see him. + +LOSE ONE OF OUR DOGS. + +I had walked out with M'Leay a short distance from the river, and had +taken the dogs. They followed us to the camp on our return to it, but the +moment they saw us enter the tent, they went off to hunt by themselves. +About 10 p.m., one of them, Bob, came to the fire, and appeared very +uneasy; he remained, for a short time, and then went away. In about an +hour, he returned, and after exhibiting the same restlessness, again +withdrew. He returned the third time before morning dawned, but returned +alone. The men on the watch were very stupid not to have followed him, +for, no doubt, he went to his companion, to whom, most likely, some +accident had happened. I tried to make him show, but could not succeed, +and, after a long search, reluctantly pursued our journey, leaving poor +Sailor to his fate. This was the only misfortune that befell us, and we +each of us felt the loss of an animal which had participated in all our +dangers and privations. I more especially regretted the circumstance for +the sake of the gentleman who gave him to me, and, on account of his +superior size and activity. + +ENCOUNTER WITH NATIVES. + +With the loss of poor Sailor, our misfortunes re-commmenced. I anticipated +some trouble hereabouts, for, having succeeded in their hardihood once, +I knew the natives would again attempt to rob us, and that we should have +some difficulty in keeping them off. As soon as they found out that we +were in the river, they came to us, but left us at sunset. This was on the +21st. At nightfall, I desired the watch to keep a good look out, and +M'Leay and I went to lie down. We had chosen an elevated bank for our +position, and immediately opposite to us there was a small space covered +with reeds, under blue-gum trees. About 11, Hopkinson came to the tent to +say, that he was sure the blacks were approaching through the reeds. +M'Leay and I got up, and, standing on the bank, listened attentively. +All we heard was the bark of a native dog apparently, but this was, in +fact, a deception on the part of the blacks. We made no noise, in +consequence of which they gradually approached, and two or three crept +behind the trunk of a tree that had fallen. As I thought they were near +enough, George M'Leay, by my desire, fired a charge of small shot at them. +They instantly made a precipitate retreat; but, in order the more +effectually to alarm them, Hopkinson fired a ball into the reeds, which we +distinctly heard cutting its way through them. All was quiet until about +three o'clock, when a poor wretch who, most probably, had thrown himself +on the ground when the shots were fired, at length mustered courage to get +up and effect his escape. + +In the morning, the tribe kept aloof, but endeavoured, by the most earnest +entreaties, and most pitiable howling, to gain our favour; but I +threatened to shoot any that approached, and they consequently kept at a +respectful distance, dogging us from tree to tree. It appeared, therefore, +that they were determined to keep us in view, no doubt, with the intention +of trying what they could do by a second attempt. As they went along, +their numbers increased, and towards evening, they amounted to a strong +tribe. Still they did not venture near us, and only now and then showed +themselves. Our situation at this moment would have been much more awkward +in the event of attack, than when we were in the open channel of the +Murray; because we were quite at the mercy of the natives if they had +closed upon us, and, being directly under the banks, should have received +every spear, while it would have been easy for them to have kept out of +sight in assailing us. + +APPARENT OBSTRUCTION OF THE CHANNEL. + +It was near sunset, the men were tired, and I was looking out for a +convenient place at which to rest, intending to punish these natives if +they provoked me, or annoyed the men. We had not seen any of them for some +time, when Hopkinson, who was standing in the bow of the boat, informed me +that they had thrown boughs across the river to prevent our passage. +I was exceedingly indignant at this, and pushed on, intending to force the +barrier. On our nearer approach, a solitary black was observed standing +close to the river, and abreast of the impediment which I imagined they +had raised to our further progress. I threatened to shoot this man, and +pointed to the branches that stretched right across the stream. The poor +fellow uttered not a word, but, putting his hand behind him, pulled out a +tomahawk from his belt, and held it towards me, by way of claiming our +acquaintance; and any anger was soon entirely appeased by discovering that +the natives had been merely setting a net across the river which these +branches supported. We, consequently, hung back, until they had drawn it, +and then passed on. + +MANOEUVRES OF THE NATIVES TO ROB THE BOAT AT NIGHT. + +The black to whom I had spoken so roughly, cut across a bight of the +river, and walking down to the side of the water with a branch in his +hand, in mark of confidence, presented me with a fishing net. We were +highly pleased at the frank conduct of this black, and a convenient place +offering itself, we landed and pitched our tents. Our friend, who was +about forty, brought his two wives, and a young man, to us: and at length +the other blacks mustered courage to approach; but those who had followed +us from the last camp, kept on the other side of the river. On pretence of +being different families, they separated into small bodies, and formed a +regular cordon round our camp. We foresaw that this was a manoeuvre, but, +in hopes that if I forgave the past they would desist from further +attempts, M'Leay took great pains in conciliating them, and treated them +with great kindness. We gave each family some fire and same presents, and +walked together to them by turns, to show that we had equal confidence in +all. Our friend had posted himself immediately behind our tents, at twenty +yards distance, with his little family, and kept altogether aloof from the +other natives. Having made our round of visits, and examined the various +modes the women had of netting, M'Leay and I went into our tent. + +It happened, fortunately, that my servant, Harris, was the first for +sentry. I told him to keep a watchful eye on the natives, and to call me +if any thing unusual occurred. We had again chosen a lofty bank for our +position; behind us there was a small plain, of about a quarter of a mile +in breadth, backed by a wood. I was almost asleep, when my servant came to +inform me, that the blacks had, with one accord, made a precipitate +retreat, and that not one of them was to be seen at the fires. I impressed +the necessity of attention upon him, and he again went to his post. +shortly after this, he returned: "Master," said he, "the natives are +coming." I jumped up, and, taking my gun, followed him, leaving my friend +George fast asleep. I would not disturb him, until necessity required, for +he had ever shown himself so devoted to duty as to deserve every +consideration. Harris led me a little way from the tents, and then +stopping, and pointing down the river, said, "There, sir, don't you see +them?" "Not I, indeed, Harris," I replied, "where do you mean? are you +sure you see them?" "Positive, sir," said he; "stoop and you will see +them." I did so, and saw a black mass in an opening. Convinced that I saw +them, I desired Harris to follow me, but not to fire unless I should give +the word. The rascals would not stand our charge, however, but retreated +as we advanced towards them. We then returned to the tents, and, +commending my servant for his vigilance, I once more threw myself on my +bed. I had scarcely lain down five minutes, when Harris called out, +"The blacks are close to me, sir; shall I fire at them?" "How far are +they?" I asked. "Within ten yards, sir." "Then fire," said I; and +immediately he did so. M'Leay and I jumped up to his assistance. "Well, +Harris," said I, "did you kill your man?" (he is a remarkably good shot.) +"No, sir," said he, "I thought you would repent it, so I fired between the +two." "Where were they, man?" said I. "Close to the boat, sir; and when +they heard me, they swam into the river, and dived as soon as I fired +between them." This account was verified by one of them puffing as he rose +below us, over whose head I fired a shot. Where the other got to I could +not tell. This watchfulness, on our part, however, prevented any further +attempts during the night. + +I was much pleased at the coolness of my servant, as well as his +consideration; and relieving him from his post, desired Hopkinson to take +it. I have no doubt that the approach of the natives, in the first +instance, was made with a view to draw us off from the camp, while some +others might rob the boat. If so, it was a good manoeuvre, and might have +succeeded. + +NATIVES DESERT THEIR WEAPONS--INGENUOUS CONDUCT OF A NATIVE. + +In the morning, we found the natives had left all their ponderous spears +at their fires, which were broken up and burnt. We were surprised to find +that our friend had left every thing in like manner behind him--his +spears, his nets, and his tomahawk; but as he had kept so wholly aloof +from the other blacks, I thought it highly improbable that he had joined +them, and the men were of opinion that he had retreated across the plain +into the wood. On looking in that direction we observed some smoke rising +among the trees at a little distance from the outskirts of the plain, and +under an impression that I should find the native at the fire with his +family, I took his spears and tomahawk, and walked across the plain, +unattended into the wood. I had not entered it more than fifty yards when +I saw a group of four natives, sitting round a small fire. One of them, +as I approached, rose up and met me, and in him I recognised the man for +whom I was seeking. When near enough, I stuck the spears upright into the +ground. The poor man stood thunderstruck; he spoke not, he moved not, +neither did he raise his eyes from the ground. I had kept the tomahawk out +of his sight, but I now produced and offered it to him. He gave a short +exclamation as his eyes caught sight of it, but he remained otherwise +silent before me, and refused to grasp the tomahawk, which accordingly +fell to the ground. I had evidently excited the man's feelings, but it is +difficult to say how he was affected. His manner indicated shame and +surprise, and the sequel will prove that both these feelings must have +possessed him. While we were thus standing together, his two wives came +up, to whom, after pointing to the spears and tomahawk, he said something, +without, however, looking at me; and they both instantly burst into tears +and wept aloud. I was really embarrassed during so unexpected a scene, +and to break it, invited the native to the camp, but I motioned with my +hand, as I had not my gun with me, that I would shoot any other of the +blacks who followed me. He distinctly understood my meaning, and intimated +as distinctly to me that they should not follow us; nor did they. We were +never again molested by them. + +I left him then, and, returning to the camp, told M'Leay my adventure, +with which he was highly delighted. My object is this procedure was to +convince the natives, generally, that we came not among them to injure or +to molest them, as well as to impress them with an idea of our superior +intelligence; and I am led to indulge the hope that I succeeded. Certain +it is, that an act of justice or of lenity has frequently, if well timed, +more weight than the utmost stretch of severity. With savages, more +particularly, to exhibit any fear, distrust, or irresolution, will +inevitably prove injurious. + +But although these adventures were happily not attended with bloodshed, +they harassed the men much; and our camp for near a week was more like an +outpost picquet than any thing else. This, however, terminated all +attempts on the part of the natives. From henceforth none of them followed +us on our route. + +BREACH THE DEPOT. + +At noon, I stopped about a mile short of the depot to take sights. After +dinner we pulled on, the men looking earnestly out for their comrades whom +they had left there, but none appeared. My little arbour, in which I had +written my letters, was destroyed, and the bank on which out tents had +stood was wholly deserted. We landed, however, and it was a satisfaction +to me to see the homeward track of the drays. The men were sadly +disappointed, and poor Clayton, who had anticipated a plentiful meal, was +completely chop fallen. M'Leay and I comforted them daily with the hopes +of meeting the drays, which I did not think improbable. + +Thus, it will appear, that we regained the place from which we started in +seventy-seven days, during which, we could not have pulled less than 2000 +miles. It is not for me, however, to make any comment, either on the +dangers to which we were occasionally exposed, or the toil and privations +we continually experienced in the course of this expedition. My duty is, +simply to give a plain narrative of facts, which I have done with +fidelity, and with as much accuracy as circumstances would permit. Had we +found Robert Harris at the depot, I should have considered it unnecessary +to trespass longer on the patient reader, but as our return to that post +did not relieve us from our difficulties, it remains for me to carry on +the narrative of our proceedings to the time when we reached the upper +branches of the Morumbidgee. + +DISAPPOINTED OF SUPPLIES. + +The hopes that had buoyed up the spirits of the men, ceased to operate as +soon as they were discovered to have been ill founded. The most gloomy +ideas took possession of their minds, and they fancied that we had been +neglected, and that Harris had remained in Sydney. It was to no purpose +that I explained to them that my instructions did not bind Harris to come +beyond Pondebadgery, and that I was confident he was then encamped upon +that plain. + +We had found the intricate navigation of the Morumbidgee infinitely more +distressing than the hard pulling up the open reaches of the Murray, for +we were obliged to haul the boat up between numberless trunks of trees, +an operation that exhausted the men much more than rowing. The river had +fallen below its former level, and rocks and logs were now exposed above +the water, over many of which the boat's keel must have grazed, as we +passed down with the current. I really shuddered frequently, at seeing +these complicated dangers, and I was at a loss to conceive how we could +have escaped them. The planks of our boat were so thin that if she had +struck forcibly against any one branch of the hundreds she must have +grazed, she would inevitably have been rent asunder from stem to stern. + +COMPLETE EXHAUSTION OF THE MEN--ONE LOSES HIS SENSES. + +The day after we passed the depot, on our return, we began to experience +the effects of the rains that had fallen in the mountains. The Morumbidgee +rose upon us six feet in one night, and poured along its turbid waters +with proportionate violence. For seventeen days we pulled against them +with determined perseverance, but human efforts, under privations such as +ours, tend to weaken themselves, and thus it was that the men began to +exhibit the effects of severe and unremitting toil. Our daily journeys +were short, and the head we made against the stream but trifling. The men +lost the proper and muscular jerk with which they once made the waters +foam and the oars bend. Their whole bodies swung with an awkward and +laboured motion. Their arms appeared to be nerveless; their faces became +haggard, their persons emaciated, their spirits wholly sunk; nature was so +completely overcome, that from mere exhaustion they frequently fell asleep +during their painful and almost ceaseless exertions. It grieved me to the +heart to see them in such a state at the close of so perilous a service, +and I began to reproach Robert Harris that he did not move down the river +to meet us; but, in fact, he was not to blame. I became captious, and +found fault where there was no occasion, and lost the equilibrium of my +temper in contemplating the condition of my companions. No murmur, +however, escaped them, nor did a complaint reach me, that was intended to +indicate that they had done all they could do. I frequently heard them in +their tent, when they thought I had dropped asleep, complaining of severe +pains and of great exhaustion. "I must tell the captain, to-morrow," some +of them would say, "that I can pull no more." To-morrow came, and they +pulled on, as if reluctant to yield to circumstances. Macnamee at length +lost his senses. We first observed this from his incoherent conversation, +but eventually from manner. He related the most extraordinary tales, and +fidgeted about eternally while in the boat. I felt it necessary, +therefore, to relieve him from the oars. + +Amidst these distresses, M'Leay preserved his good humour, and endeavoured +to lighten the task, and to cheer the men as much as possible. His +presence at this time was a source of great comfort to me. The uniform +kindness with which he had treated his companions, gave him an influence +over them now, and it was exerted with the happiest effect. + +DESPATCH TWO MEN TO PONDEBADGERY. + +On the 8th and 9th of April we had heavy rain, but there was no respite +for us. Our provisions were nearly consumed, and would have been wholly +exhausted, if we had not been so fortunate as to kill several swans. On +the 11th, we gained our camp opposite to Hamilton's Plains, after a day of +severe exertion. Our tents were pitched upon the old ground, and the marks +of our cattle were around us. In the evening, the men went out with their +guns, and M'Leay and I walked to the rear of the camp, to consult +undisturbed as to the moat prudent measures to be adopted, under our +embarrassing circumstances. The men were completely sunk. We were still +between eighty and ninety miles from Pondebadgery, in a direct line, and +nearly treble that distance by water. The task was greater than we could +perform, and our provisions were insufficient. In this extremity I thought +it best to save the men the mortification of yielding, by abandoning the +boat; and on further consideration, I determined on sending Hopkinson and +Mulholland, whose devotion, intelligence, and indefatigable spirits, +I well knew, forward to the plain. + +The joy this intimation spread was universal, Both Hopkinson and +Mulholland readily undertook the journey, and I, accordingly, prepared +orders for them to start by the earliest dawn. It was not without a +feeling of sorrow that I witnessed the departure of these two men, to +encounter a fatiguing march. I had no fears as to their gaining the plain, +if their reduced state would permit them. On the other hand, I hoped they +would fall in with our old friend the black, or that they would meet the +drays; and I could not but admire the spirit and energy they both +displayed upon the occasion. Their behaviour throughout had been such as +to awaken in my breast a feeling of the highest approbation. Their +conduct, indeed, exceeded all praise, nor did they hesitate one moment +when I called upon them to undertake this last trying duty, after such +continued exertion. I am sure the reader will forgive me for bringing +under his notice the generous efforts of these two men; by me it can never +be forgotten. + +ABANDON AND BURN THE BOAT. + +Six days had passed since their departure; we remaining encamped. M'Leay +and myself had made some short excursions, but without any result worthy +of notice. A group of sand-hills rose in the midst of the alluvial +deposits, about a quarter of a mile from the tents, that were covered with +coarse grasses and banksias. We shot several intertropical birds feeding +in the latter, and sucking the honey from their flowers. I had, in the +mean time, directed Clayton to make some plant cases of the upper planks +of the boat, and then to set fire to her, for she was wholly +unserviceable, and I felt a reluctance to leave her like a neglected log +on the water. The last ounce of flour had been served out to the men, and +the whole of it was consumed on the sixth day from that on which we had +abandoned the boat. I had calculated on seeing Hopkinson again in eight +days, but as the morrow would see us without food, I thought, as the men +had had a little rest it would be better to advance towards relief than to +await its arrival. + +MEN RETURN WITH SUPPLIES. + +On the evening of the 18th, therefore, we buried our specimens and other +stores, intending to break up the camp in the morning. A singular bird, +which invariably passed it at an hour after sunset, and which, from its +heavy flight, appeared to be of unusual size so attracted my notice, that +in the evening M'Leay and I crossed the river, in hope to get a shot at +it. We had, however, hardly landed on the other side, when a loud shout +called us back to witness the return of our comrades. + +They were both of them in a state that beggars description. Their knees +and ankles were dreadfully swollen, and their limbs so painful, that as +soon as they arrived in the camp they sunk under their efforts, but they +met us with smiling countenances, and expressed their satisfaction at +having arrived so seasonably to our relief. They had, as I had foreseen, +found Robert Harris on the plain, which they reached on the evening of the +third day. They had started early the next morning on their return with +such supplies as they thought we might immediately want. Poor Macnamee +had in a great measure recovered, but for some days he was sullen and +silent: sight of the drays gave him uncommon satisfaction. Clayton gorged +himself; but M'Leay, myself and Fraser could not at first relish the meat +that was placed before us. + +It was determined to give the bullocks a day of rest, and I availed myself +of the serviceable state of the horses to visit some hills about eighteen +miles to the northward. I was anxious to gain a view of the distant +country to the N.W., and to ascertain the geological character of the +hills themselves. M'Leay, Fraser, and myself left the camp early in the +morning of the 19th, on our way to them. Crossing the sand hills, we +likewise passed a creek, and, from the flooded or alluvial tracks, got on +an elevated sandy country, in which we found a beautiful grevillia. From +this we passed a barren ridge of quartz-formation, terminating in open box +forest. From it we descended and traversed a plain that must, at some +periods, be almost impassable. It was covered with acacia pendula, and the +soil was a red earth, bare of vegetation in many places. At its extremity +we came to some stony ridges, and, descending their northern side, gained +the base of the hills. They were more extensive than they appeared to be +from our camp; and were about six hundred feet in height, and composed of +a conglomerate rock. They were extremely barren, nor did the aspect of the +country seem to indicate a favourable change. I was enabled, however, to +connect my line of route with the more distant hills between the +Morumbidgee and the Lachlan. We returned to the camp at midnight. + +MEET WITH THE DRAYS. + +On the following morning we left our station before Hamilton's Plains. +We reached Pondebadgery on the 28th, and found Robert Harris, with a +plentiful supply of provisions. He had everything extremely regular, and +had been anxiously expecting our return, of which he at length wholly +despaired. He had been at the plain two months, and intended to have moved +down the river immediately, had we not made our appearance when we did. + +I had sent M'Leay forward on the 20th with letters to the Governor, whose +anxiety was great on our account. I remained for a fortnight on the plain +to restore the men, but Hopkinson had so much over-exerted himself that it +was with difficulty he crawled along. + +In my despatches to the Governor, from the depot, I had suggested the +policy of distributing some blankets and other presents to the natives on +the Morumbidgee, in order to reward those who had been useful to our +party, and in the hope of proving beneficial to settlers in that distant +part of the colony. His Excellency was kind enough to accede to my +request, and I found ample means for these purposes among the stores that +Harris brought from Sydney. + +We left Pondebadgery Plain early on the 5th of May, and reached Guise's +Station late in the afternoon. We gained Yass Plains on the 12th, having +struck through the mountain passes by a direct line, instead of returning +by our old route near Underaliga. As the party was crossing the plains I +rode to see Mr. O'Brien, but did not find him at home. + +INSTANCE OF CANNIBALISM. + +While waiting at his hut, one of the stockmen pointed out two blacks to me +at a little distance from us. The one was standing, the other sitting. +"That fellow, sir," said he, "who is sitting down, killed his infant child +last night by knocking its head against a stone, after which he threw it +on the fire and then devoured it." I was quite horror struck, and could +scarcely believe such a story. I therefore went up to the man and +questioned him as to the fact, as well as I could. He did not attempt to +deny it, but slunk away in evident consciousness. I then questioned the +other that remained, whose excuse for his friend was that the child was +sick and would never have grown up, adding he himself did not PATTER (eat) +any of it. + +Many of my readers may probably doubt this horrid occurrence having taken +place, as I have not mentioned any corroborating circumstances. I am +myself, however, as firmly persuaded of the truth of what I have stated as +if I had seen the savage commit the act; for I talked to his companion who +did see him, and who described to me the manner in which he killed the +child. Be it as it may, the very mention of such a thing among these +people goes to prove that they are capable of such an enormity. + +We left Yass Plains on the 14th of May, and reached Sydney by easy stages +on the 25th, after an absence of nearly six months. + + +* * * * * + + +CONCLUDING REMARKS. + + +To most of my readers, the foregoing narrative will appear little else +than a succession of adventures. Whilst the expedition was toiling down +the rivers, no rich country opened upon the view to reward or to cheer the +perseverance of those who composed it, and when, at length, the land of +promise lay smiling before them, their strength and their means were too +much exhausted to allow of their commencing an examination, of the result +of which there could be but little doubt. The expedition returned to +Sydney, without any splendid discovery to gild its proceedings; and the +labours and dangers it had encountered were considered as nothing more +than ordinary occurrences. If I myself had entertained hopes that my +researches would have benefited the colony, I was wholly disappointed. +There is a barren tract of country lying to the westward of the Blue +Mountains that will ever divide the eastern coast from the more central +parts of Australia, as completely as if seas actually rolled between them. + +GEOGRAPHICAL REMARKS. + +In a geographical point of view, however, nothing could have been more +satisfactory, excepting an absolute knowledge of the country to the +northward between the Murray and the Darling, than the results of the +expedition. I have in its proper place stated, as fairly as I could, my +reasons for supposing the principal junction (which I consequently left +without a name) to be the Darling of my former journey, as well as the +various arguments that bore against such a conclusion. + +Of course, where there is so much room for doubt, opinions will be +various. I shall merely review the subject, in order to connect subsequent +events with my previous observations, and to give the reader a full idea +of that which struck me to be the case on a close and anxious +investigation of the country from mountain to lowland. I returned from the +Macquarie with doubts on my mind as to the ultimate direction to which the +waters of the Darling river might ultimately flow; for, with regard to +every other point, the question was, I considered, wholly decided. But, +with regard to that singular stream, I was, from the little knowledge I +had obtained, puzzled as to its actual course; and I thought it as likely +that it might turn into the heart of the interior, as that it would make +to the south. It had not, however, escaped my notice, that the northern +rivers turned more abruptly southward (after gaining a certain distance +from the base of the ranges) than the more southern streams: near the +junction of the Castlereagh with the Darling especially, the number of +large creeks joining the first river from the north, led me to conclude +that there was at that particular spot a rapid fall of country to the +south. + +The first thing that strengthened in my mind this half-formed opinion, was +the fall of the Lachlan into the Morumbidgee. I had been told that +Australia was a basin; that an unbroken range of hills lined its coasts, +the internal rivers of which fell into its centre, and contributed to the +formation of an inland sea; I was not therefore prepared to find a break +in the chain--a gap as it were for the escape of these waters to the +coast. + +Subsequently to our entrance into the Murray, the remarkable efforts of +that river to maintain a southerly course were observed even by the men, +and the singular runs it made to the south, when unchecked by high lands, +clearly evinced its natural tendency to flow in that direction. + +Had we found ourselves at an elevation above the bed of the Darling when +we reached the junction of the principal tributary with the Murray, I +should still have had doubts on my mind as to the identity of that +tributary with the first-mentioned river; but considering the trifling +elevation of the Darling above the sea, and that the junction was still +less elevated above it, I cannot bring myself to believe that the former +alters its course. It is not, however, on this simple geographical +principle that I have built my conclusions; other corroborative +circumstances have tended also to confirm in my mind the opinion I have +already given, not only of the comparatively recent appearance above +the ocean of the level country over which I had passed, but that the true +dip of the interior is from north to south. + +In support of the first of these conclusions, it would appear that a +current of water must have swept the vast accumulation of shells, forming +the great fossil bank through which the Murray passes from the northern +extremity of the continent, to deposit them where they are; and it would +further appear from the gradual rise of this bed, on an inclined plain +from N.N.E. to S.S.W., that it must in the first instance, have swept +along the base of the ranges, but ultimately turned into the above +direction by the convexity of the mountains at the S.E. angle of the +coast. From the circumstance, moreover, of the summit of the fossil +formation being in places covered with oyster shells, the fact of the +whole mass having been under water is indisputable, and leads us naturally +to the conclusion that the depressed interior beyond it must have been +under water at the same time. + +It was proved by barometrical admeasurement, that the cataract of the +Macquarie was 680 feet above the level of the sea, and, in like manner, +it was found that the depot of Mr. Oxley, on the Lachlan, was only 500, +there being a still greater fall of country beyond these two points. +The maximum height of the fossil bank was 300 feet; and if we suppose a +line to be drawn from its top to the eastward, that line would pass over +the marshes of the two rivers, and would cut them at a point below which +they both gradually diminish. Hence I am brought to conclude that in +former times the sea washed the western base of the dividing ranges, at or +near the two points whose respective elevations I have given; and that +when the mass of land now lying waste and unproductive, became exposed, +the rivers, which until then had pursued a regular course to the ocean, +having no channel beyond their original termination, overflowed the almost +level country into which they now fall; or, filling some extensive +concavity, have contributed, by successive depositions, to the formation +of those marshes of which so much has been said. I regret extremely, that +my defective vision prevents me giving a slight sketch to elucidate +whet I fear I have, in words, perhaps, failed in making sufficiently +intelligible. + +GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. + +Now, as we know not by what means the changes that have taken place on the +earth's surface have been effected, and can only reason on them from +analogy, it is to be feared we shall never arrive at any clear +demonstration of the truth of our surmises with regard to geographical +changes, whether extensive or local, since the causes which produced them +will necessarily have ceased to operate. We cannot refer to the dates when +they took place, as we may do in regard to the eruptions of a volcano, +or the appearance or disappearance of an island. Such events are of minor +importance. Those mighty changes to which I would be understood to allude, +can hardly be laid to the account of chemical agency. We can easily +comprehend how subterranean fires will occasionally burst forth, and can +thus satisfactorily account for earthquake or volcano; but it is not to +any clashing of properties, or to any visible causes, that the changes of +which I speak can be attributed. They appear rather as the consequences of +direct agency, of an invisible power, not as the occasional and fretful +workings of nature herself. The marks of that awful catastrophe which so +nearly extinguished the human race, are every day becoming more and more +visible as geological research proceeds. Thus, in the limestone caves at +Wellington Valley, the remains of fossils and exuviae, show that their +depths were penetrated by the same searching element that poured into the +caverns of Kirkdale and other places. They are as gleams of sunshine +falling upon the pages of that sublime and splendid volume, in which the +history of the deluge is alone to be found; as if the Almighty intended +that His word should stand single and unsupported before mankind: and when +we consider that such corroborative testimonies of his wrath, as those I +have noticed, were in all probability wholly unknown to those who wrote +that sacred book, the discovery of the remains of a past world, must +strike those under whose knowledge it may fall with the truth of that +awful event, which language has vainly endeavoured to describe and +painters to represent. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + + +Environs of the lake Alexandrina--Appointment of Capt. Barker to make a +further survey of the coast near Encounter Bay--Narrative of his +proceedings--Mount Lofty, Mount Barker, and beautiful country adjacent-- +Australian salmon--Survey of the coast--Outlet of lake to the sea-- +Circumstances that led to the slaughter of Capt. Barker by the natives-- +His character--Features of this part of the country and capabilities of +its coasts--Its adaptation for colonization--Suggestions for the +furtherance of future Expeditions. + +ENVIRONS OF THE LAKE ALEXANDRINA. + +The foregoing narrative will have given the reader some idea of the state +in which the last expedition reached the bottom of that extensive and +magnificent basin which receives the waters of the Murray. The men were, +indeed, so exhausted, in strength, and their provisions so much reduced by +the time they gained the coast, that I doubted much, whether either would +hold out to such place as we might hope for relief. Yet, reduced as the +whole of us were from previous exertion, beset as our homeward path was by +difficulty and danger, and involved as our eventual safety was in +obscurity and doubt, I could not but deplore the necessity that obliged me +to re-cross the Lake Alexandrina (as I had named it in honour of the heir +apparent to the British crown), and to relinquish the examination of its +western shores. We were borne over its ruffled and agitated surface with +such rapidity, that I had scarcely time to view it as we passed; but, +cursory as my glance was, I could not but think I was leaving behind me +the fullest reward of our toil, in a country that would ultimately render +our discoveries valuable, and benefit the colony for whose interests we +were engaged. Hurried, I would repeat, as my view of it was, my eye never +fell on a country of more promising aspect, or of more favourable +position, than that which occupies the space between the lake and the +ranges of St. Vincent's Gulf, and, continuing northerly from Mount Barker, +stretches away, without any visible boundary. + +It appeared to me that, unless nature had deviated from her usual laws, +this tract of country could not but be fertile, situated as it was to +receive the mountain deposits on the one hand, and those of the lake upon +the other. + +FURTHER EXAMINATION OF THE COAST. + +In my report to the Colonial Government, however, I did not feel myself +justified in stating, to their full extent, opinions that were founded on +probability and conjecture alone. But, although I was guarded in this +particular, I strongly recommended a further examination of the coast, +from the most eastern point of Encounter Bay, to the head St. Vincent's +Gulf, to ascertain if any other than the known channel existed among the +sand-hills of the former, or if, as I had every reason to hope from the +great extent of water to the N.W., there was a practicable communication +with the lake from the other; and I ventured to predict, that a closer +survey of the interjacent country, would be attended with the most +beneficial results; nor have I a doubt that the promontory of Cape Jervis +would ere this have been settled, had Captain Barker lived to complete his +official reports. + +CAPT. BARKER'S SURVEY. + +The governor, General Darling, whose multifarious duties might well have +excused him from paying attention to distant objects, hesitated not a +moment when he thought the interests of the colony, whose welfare he so +zealously promoted, appeared to be concerned; and he determined to avail +himself of the services of Captain Collet Barker, of the 39th regiment, +who was about to be recalled from King George's Sound, in order to satisfy +himself as to the correctness of my views. + +Captain Barker had not long before been removed from Port Raffles, on the +northern coast, where he had had much intercourse with the natives, and +had frequently trusted himself wholly in their hands. It was not, however, +merely on account of his conciliating manners, and knowledge of the temper +and habits of the natives, that he was particularly fitted for the duty +upon which it was the governor's pleasure to employ him. He was, in +addition, a man of great energy of character, and of much and various +information. + +Orders having reached Sydney, directing the establishment belonging to +New South Wales to be withdrawn, prior to the occupation of King George's +Sound by the government of Western Australia, the ISABELLA schooner was +sent to receive the troops and prisoners on board; and Captain Barker was +directed, as soon as he should have handed over the settlement to Captain +Stirling, to proceed to Cape Jervis, from which point it was thought he +could best carry on a survey not only of the coast but also of the +interior. + +This excellent and zealous officer sailed from King George's Sound, on the +10th of April, 1831, and arrived off Cape Jervis on the 13th. He was +attended by Doctor Davies, one of the assistant surgeons of his regiment, +and by Mr. Kent, of the Commissariat. It is to the latter gentleman that +the public are indebted for the greater part of the following details; +he having attended Captain Barker closely during the whole of this short +but disastrous excursion, and made notes as copious as they are +interesting. At the time the ISABELLA arrived off Cape Jervis, the weather +was clear and favourable. Captain Barker consequently stood into +St. Vincent's Gulf, keeping, as near as practicable, to the eastern shore, +in soundings that varied from six to ten fathoms, upon sand and mud. +His immediate object was to ascertain if there was any communication with +the lake Alexandrina from the gulf. He ascended to lat. 34 degrees +40 minutes where he fully satisfied himself that no channel did exist +between them. He found, however, that the ranges behind Cape Jervis +terminated abruptly at Mount Lofty, in lat. 34 degrees 56 minutes, and, +that a flat and wooded country succeeded to the N. and N.E. The shore of +the gulf tended more to the N.N.W., and mud flats and mangrove swamps +prevailed along it. + +INVITING COUNTRY--MOUNT LOFTY. + +Mr. Kent informs me, that they landed for the first time on the 15th, but +that they returned almost immediately to the vessel. On the 17th, Captain +Barker again landed, with the intention of remaining on shore for two or +three days. He was accompanied by Mr. Kent, his servant Mills, and two +soldiers. The boat went to the place at which they had before landed, as +they thought they had discovered a small river with a bar entrance. They +crossed the bar, and ascertained that it was a narrow inlet, of four miles +in length, that terminated at the base of the ranges. The party were quite +delighted with the aspect of the country on either side of the inlet, +and with the bold and romantic scenery behind them. The former bore the +appearance of natural meadows, lightly timbered, and covered with a +variety of grasses. The soil was observed to be a rich, fat, chocolate +coloured earth, probably the decomposition of the deep blue limestone, +that showed itself along the coast hereabouts. On the other hand, a rocky +glen made a cleft in the ranges at the head of the inlet; and they were +supplied with abundance of fresh water which remained in the deeper pools +that had been filled by the torrents during late rains. The whole +neighbourhood was so inviting that the party slept at the head of the +inlet. + +MOUNT LOFTY AND ITS ENVIRONS. + +In the morning, Captain Barker proceeded to ascend Mount Lofty, +accompanied by Mr. Kent and his servant, leaving the two soldiers at the +bivouac, at which he directed them to remain until his return. Mr. Kent +says they kept the ridge all the way, and rose above the sea by a gradual +ascent. The rock-formation of the lower ranges appeared to be an +argillaceous schist; the sides and summit of the ranges were covered with +verdure, and the trees upon them were of more than ordinary size. The view +to the eastward was shut out by other ranges, parallel to those on which +they were; below them to the westward, the same pleasing kind of country +that flanked the inlet still continued. + +MOUNT BARKER. + +In the course of the day they passed round the head of a deep ravine, +whose smooth and grassy sides presented a beautiful appearance. The party +stood 600 feet above the bed of a small rivulet that occupied the bottom +of the ravine. In some places huge blocks of granite interrupted its +course, in others the waters had worn the rock smooth. The polish of these +rocks was quite beautiful, and the veins of red and white quartz which +traversed them, looked like mosaic work. They did not gain the top of +Mount Lofty, but slept a few miles beyond the ravine. In the morning +they continued their journey, and, crossing Mount Lofty, descended +northerly, to a point from which the range bent away a little to the +N.N.E., and then terminated. The view from this point was much more +extensive than that from Mount Lofty itself. They overlooked a great part +of the gulf, and could distinctly see the mountains at the head of it to +the N.N.W. To the N.W. there was a considerable indentation in the coast, +which had escaped Captain Barker's notice when examining it. A mountain, +very similar to Mount Lofty, bore due east of them, and appeared to be the +termination of its range. They were separated by a valley of about ten +miles in width, the appearance of which was not favourable. Mr. Kent +states to me, that Capt. Barker observed at the time that he thought it +probable I had mistaken this hill for Mount Lofty, since it shut out the +view of the lake from him, and therefore he naturally concluded, I could +not have seen Mount Lofty. I can readily imagine such an error to have +been made by me, more especially as I remember that at the time I was +taking bearings in the lake, I thought Captain Flinders had not given +Mount Lofty, as I then conceived it to be, its proper position in +longitude. Both hills are in the same parallel of latitude. The mistake on +my part is obvious. I have corrected it in the charts, and have availed +myself of the opportunity thus afforded me of perpetuating, as far as I +can, the name of an inestimable companion in Captain Barker himself + +Immediately below the point on which they stood, Mr. Kent says, a low +undulating country extended to the northward, as far as he could see. +It was partly open, and partly wooded; and was every where covered with +verdure. It continued round to the eastward, and apparently ran down +southerly, at the opposite base of the mount Barker Range. I think there +can be but little doubt that my view from the S.E., that is, from the +lake, extended over the same or a part of the same country. Captain Barker +again slept on the summit of the range, near a large basin that looked +like the mouth of a crater, in which huge fragments of rocks made a scene +of the utmost confusion. These rocks were a coarse grey granite, of which +the higher parts and northern termination of the Mount Lofty range are +evidently formed; for Mr. Kent remarks that it superseded the schistose +formation at the ravine we have noticed--and that, subsequently, the sides +of the hills became more broken, and valleys, or gullies, more properly +speaking, very numerous. Captain Barker estimated the height of Mount +Lofty above the sea at 2,400 feet, and the distance of its summit from the +coast at eleven miles. Mr. Kent says they were surprised at the size of +the trees on the immediate brow of it; they measured one and found it to +be 43 feet in girth. Indeed, he adds, vegetation did not appear to have +suffered either from its elevated position, or from any prevailing wind. +Eucalypti were the general timber on the ranges; one species of which, +resembling strongly the black butted-gum, was remarkable for a scent +peculiar to its bark. + +AUSTRALIAN SALMON. + +The party rejoined the soldiers on the 21st, and enjoyed the supply of +fish which they had provided for them. The soldiers had amused themselves +by fishing during Captain Barker's absence, and had been abundantly +successful. Among others they had taken a kind of salmon, which, though +inferior in size, resembled in shape, in taste, and in the colour of its +flesh, the salmon of Europe. I fancied that a fish which I observed with +extremely glittering scales, in the mouth of a seal, when myself on the +coast, must have been of this kind; and I have no doubt that the lake is +periodically visited by salmon, and that these fish retain their habits of +entering fresh water at particular seasons, also in the southern +hemisphere. + +Immediately behind Cape Jervis, there is a small bay, in which according +to the information of the sealers who frequent Kangaroo Island, there is +good and safe anchorage for seven months in the year, that is to say, +during the prevalence of the E. and N.E. winds. + +SURVEY OF THE COAST. + +Captain Barker landed on the 21st on this rocky point at the northern +extremity of this bay. He had, however, previously to this, examined the +indentation in the coast which he had observed from Mount Lofty, and had +ascertained that it was nothing more than an inlet; a spit of sand, +projecting from the shore at right angles with it, concealed the month of +the inlet. They took the boat to examine this point, and carried six +fathoms soundings round the head of the spit to the mouth of the inlet, +when it shoaled to two fathoms, and the landing was observed to be bad, +by reason of mangrove swamps on either side of it. Mr. Kent, I think, told +me that this inlet was from ten to twelve miles long. Can it be that a +current setting out of it at times, has thrown up the sand-bank that +protects its mouth, and that trees, or any other obstacle, have hidden its +further prolongation from Captain Barker's notice? I have little hope that +such is the case, but the remark is not an idle one. + +BEAUTIFUL VALLEYS. + +Between this inlet and the one formerly mentioned, a small and clear +stream was discovered, to which Captain Barker kindly gave my name. On +landing, the party, which consisted of the same persons as the former one, +found themselves in a valley, which opened direct upon the bay. It was +confined to the north from the chief range by a lateral ridge, that +gradually declined towards and terminated at, the rocky point on which +they had landed. The other side of the valley was formed of a continuation +of the main range, which also gradually declined to the south, and +appeared to be connected with the hills at the extremity of the cape. +The valley was from nine to ten miles in length, and from three to four in +breadth. In crossing it, they ascertained that the lagoon from which the +schooner had obtained a supply of water, was filled by a watercourse that +came down its centre. The soil in the valley was rich, but stony in some +parts. There was an abundance of pasture over the whole, from amongst +which they started numerous kangaroos. The scenery towards the ranges was +beautiful and romantic, and the general appearance of the country such as +to delight the whole party. + +Preserving a due east course, Captain Barker passed over the opposite +range of hills, and descended almost immediately into a second valley that +continued to the southwards. Its soil was poor and stony, and it was +covered with low scrub. Crossing it, they ascended the opposite range, +from the summit of which they had a view of Encounter Bay. An extensive +flat stretched from beneath them to the eastward, and was backed, in the +distance, by sand hummocks, and low wooded hills. The extreme right of the +flat rested upon the coast, at a rocky point near which there were two or +three islands. From the left a beautiful valley opened upon it. A strong +and clear rivulet from this valley traversed the flat obliquely, and fell +into the sea at the rocky point, or a little to the southward of it. +The hills forming the opposite side of the valley had already terminated. +Captain Barker, therefore, ascended to higher ground, and, at length, +obtained a view of the Lake Alexandrina, and the channel of its +communication with the sea to the N.E. He now descended to the flat, and +frequently expressed his anxious wish to Mr. Kent that I had been one of +their number to enjoy the beauty of the scenery around them, and to +participate in their labours. Had fate so ordained it, it is possible the +melancholy tragedy that soon after occurred might have been averted. + +OUTLET OF LAKE TO THE SEA. + +At the termination of the flat they found themselves upon the banks of the +channel, and close to the sand hillock under which my tents had been +pitched. From this point they proceeded along the line of sand-hills to +the outlet; from which it would appear that Kangaroo Island is not +visible, but that the distant point which I mistook for it was the S.E. +angle of Cape Jervis. I have remarked, in describing that part of the +coast, that there is a sand-hill to the eastward of the inlet, under which +the tide runs strong, and the water is deep. Captain Barker judged the +breadth of the channel to be a quarter of a mile, and he expressed a +desire to swim across it to the sand-hill to take bearings, and to +ascertain the nature of the strand beyond it to the eastward. + +It unfortunately happened, that he was the only one of the party who could +swim well, in consequence of which his people remonstrated with him on the +danger of making the attempt unattended. Notwithstanding, however, that +he was seriously indisposed, he stripped, and after Mr. Kent had fastened +his compass on his head for him, he plunged into the water, and with +difficulty gained the opposite side; to effect which took him nine minutes +and fifty-eight seconds. His anxious comrades saw him ascend the hillock, +and take several bearings; he then descended the farther side, and was +never seen by them again. + +CIRCUMSTANCES ATTENDING THE LOSS OF CAPTAIN BARKER. + +For a considerable time Mr. Kent remained stationary, in momentary +expectation of his return; but at length, taking the two soldiers with +him, he proceeded along the shore in search of wood for a fire. At about +a quarter of a mile, the soldiers stopped and expressed their wish to +return, as their minds misgave them, and they feared that Captain Barker +had met with some accident. While conversing, they heard a distant shout, +or cry, which Mr. Kent thought resembled the call of the natives, but +which the soldiers positively declared to be the voice of a white man. +On their return to their companions, they asked if any sounds had caught +their ears, to which they replied in the negative. The wind was blowing +from the E.S.E., in which direction Captain Barker had gone; and, to me, +the fact of the nearer party not having heard that which must have been +his cries for assistance, is satisfactorily accounted for, as, being +immediately under the hill, the sounds must have passed over their heads +to be heard more distinctly at the distance at which Mr. Kent and the +soldiers stood. It is more than probable, that while his men were +expressing their anxiety about him, the fearful tragedy was enacting which +it has become my painful task to detail. + +Evening closed in without any signs of Captain Barker's return, or any +circumstance by which Mr. Kent could confirm his fears that he had fallen +into the hands of the natives. For, whether it was that the tribe which +had shown such decided hostility to me when on the coast had not observed +the party, none made their appearance; and if I except two, who crossed +the channel when Mr. Kent was in search of wood, they had neither seen nor +heard any; and Captain Barker's enterprising disposition being well known +to his men, hopes were still entertained that he was safe. A large fire +was kindled, and the party formed a silent and anxious group around it. +Soon after night-fall, however, their attention was roused by the sounds +of the natives, and it was at length discovered, that they had lighted a +chain of small fires between the sand-hill Captain Barker had ascended and +the opposite side of the channel, around which their women were chanting +their melancholy dirge. It struck upon the ears of the listeners with an +ominous thrill, and assured them of the certainty of the irreparable loss +they had sustained. All night did those dismal sounds echo along that +lonely shore, but as morning dawned, they ceased, and Mr. Kent and his +companions were again left in anxiety and doubt. They, at length, thought +it most advisable to proceed to the schooner to advise with Doctor +Davies. They traversed the beach with hasty steps, but did not get on +board till the following day. It was then determined to procure assistance +from the sealers on Kangaroo Island, as the only means by which they could +ascertain their leader's fate, and they accordingly entered American +Harbour. For a certain reward, one of the men agreed to accompany Mr. Kent +to the main with a native woman, to communicate with the tribe that was +supposed to have killed him. They landed at or near the rocky point of +Encounter Bay, where they were joined by two other natives, one of whom +was blind. The woman was sent forward for intelligence, and on her return +gave the following details: + +ACCOUNT OF HIS MURDER. + +It appears that at a very considerable distance from the first sand-hill, +there is another to which Captain Barker must have walked, for the woman +stated that three natives were going to the shore from their tribe, and +that they crossed his tract. Their quick perception immediately told them +it was an unusual impression. They followed upon it, and saw Captain +Barker returning. They hesitated for a long time to approach him, being +fearful of the instrument he carried. At length, however, they closed upon +him. Capt. Barker tried to soothe them, but finding that they were +determined to attack him, he made for the water from which he could not +have been very distant. One of the blacks immediately threw his spear and +struck him in the hip. This did not, however, stop him. He got among the +breakers, when he received the second spear in the shoulder. On this, +turning round, he received a third full in the breast: with such deadly +precision do these savages cast their weapons. It would appear that the +third spear was already on its flight when Capt. Barker turned, and it is +to be hoped, that it was at once mortal. He fell on his back into the +water. The natives then rushed in, and dragging him out by the legs, +seized their spears, and indicted innumerable wounds upon his body; +after which, they threw it into deep water, and the sea-tide carried it +away. + +HIS CHARACTER. + +Such, we have every reason to believe, was the untimely fate of this +amiable and talented man. It is a melancholy satisfaction to me thus +publicly to record his worth; instrumental, as I cannot but in some +measure consider my last journey to have been in leading to this fatal +catastrophe. Captain Barker was in disposition, as he was in the close +of his life, in many respects similar to Captain Cook. Mild, affable, and +attentive, he had the esteem and regard of every companion, and the +respect of every one under him. Zealous in the discharge of his public +duties, honourable and just in private life; a lover and a follower of +science; indefatigable and dauntless in his pursuits; a steady friend, +an entertaining companion; charitable, kind-hearted, disinterested, +and sincere--the task is equally difficult to find adequate expressions of +praise or of regret. In him the king lost one of his most valuable +officers, and his regiment one of its most efficient members. Beloved as +he was, the news of his loss struck his numerous friends with sincere +grief, but by none was it more severely felt than by the humble individual +who has endeavoured thus feebly to draw his portrait. + +From the same source from which the particulars of his death were +obtained, it was reported that the natives who perpetrated the deed were +influenced by no other motive than curiosity to ascertain if they had +power to kill a white man. But we must be careful in giving credit to +this, for it is much more probable that the cruelties exercised by the +sealers towards the blacks along the south coast, may have instigated the +latter to take vengeance on the innocent as well as on the guilty. It will +be seen, by a reference to the chart, that Captain Barker, by crossing the +channel, threw himself into the very hands of that tribe which had evinced +such determined hostility to myself and my men. He got into the rear of +their strong hold, and was sacrificed to those feelings of suspicion, and +to that desire of revenge, which the savages never lose sight of until +they have been gratified. + +FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY, AND CAPABILITIES OF THE COAST. + +It yet remains for me to state that when Mr. Kent returned to the +schooner, after this irreparable loss, he kept to the south of the place +at which he had crossed the first range with Captain Barker, and travelled +through a valley right across the promontory. He thus discovered that +there was a division in the ranges, through which there was a direct and +level road from the little bay on the northern extremity of which they had +last landed in St. Vincent's Gulf, to the rocky point of Encounter Bay. +The importance of this fact will be better estimated, when it is known +that good anchorage is secured to small vessels inside the island that +lies off the point of Encounter Bay, which is rendered still safer by a +horse shoe reef that forms, as it were, a thick wall to break the swell of +the sea. But this anchorage is not safe for more than five months in the +year. Independently of these points, however, Mr. Kent remarks, that the +spit a little to the north of Mount Lofty would afford good shelter to +minor vessels under its lee. When the nature of the country is taken into +consideration, and the facility of entering that which lies between the +ranges and the Lake Alexandrina, from the south, and of a direct +communication with the lake itself, the want of an extensive harbour will, +in some measure, be compensated for, more especially when it is known that +within four leagues of Cape Jervis, a port little inferior to Port +Jackson, with a safe and broad entrance, exists at Kangaroo Island. The +sealers have given this spot the name of American Harbour. In it, I am +informed, vessels are completely land-locked, and secure from every wind. +Kangaroo Island is not, however, fertile by any means. It abounds in +shallow lakes filled with salt water during high tides, and which, by +evaporation, yield a vast quantity of salt. + +I gathered from the sealers that neither the promontory separating +St. Vincent from Spencer's Gulf, nor the neighbourhood of Port Lincoln, +are other than barren and sandy wastes. They all agree in describing Port +Lincoln itself as a magnificent roadstead, but equally agree as to the +sterility of its shores. It appears, therefore, that the promontory of +Cape Jervis owes its superiority to its natural features; in fact, to the +mountains that occupy its centre, to the debris that has been washed from +them, and to the decomposition of the better description of its rocks. +Such is the case at Illawarra, where the mountains approach the sea; such +indeed is the case every where, at a certain distance from mountain +ranges. + +ADAPTION OF THIS PART OF THE COUNTRY FOR COLONISATION. + +From the above account it would appear that a spot has, at length, been +found upon the south coast of New Holland, to which the colonist might +venture with every prospect of success, and in whose valleys the exile +might hope to build for himself and for his family a peaceful and +prosperous home. All who have ever landed upon the eastern shore of +St. Vincent's Gulf, agree as to the richness of its soil, and the +abundance of its pasture. Indeed, if we cast our eyes upon the chart, and +examine the natural features of the country behind Cape Jervis, we shall +no longer wonder at its differing in soil and fertility from the low and +sandy tracks that generally prevail along the shores of Australia. Without +entering largely into the consideration of the more remote advantages that +would, in all human probability, result from the establishment of a +colony, rather than a penal settlement, at St. Vincent's Gulf, it will be +expedient to glance hastily over the preceding narrative, and, disengaging +it from all extraneous matter, to condense, as much as possible, the +information it contains respecting the country itself; for I have been +unable to introduce any passing remark, lest I should break the thread of +an interesting detail. + +The country immediately behind Cape Jervis may, strictly speaking, be +termed a promontory, bounded to the west by St. Vincent's Gulf, and to the +east by the lake Alexandrina, and the sandy track separating that basin +from the sea. Supposing a line to be drawn from the parallel of 34 degrees +40 minutes to the eastward, it will strike the Murray river about 25 miles +above the head of the lake, and will clear the ranges, of which Mount +Lofty and Mount Barker are the respective terminations. This line will cut +off a space whose greatest breadth will be 55 miles, whose length from +north to south will be 75, and whose surface exceeds 7 millions of acres; +from which if we deduct 2 millions for the unavailable hills, we shall +have 5 millions of acres of land, of rich soil, upon which no scrub +exists, and whose most distant points are accessible, through a level +country on the one hand, and by water on the other. The southern extremity +of the ranges can be turned by that valley through which Mr. Kent returned +to the schooner, after Captain Barker's death. It is certain, therefore, +that this valley not only secures so grand a point, but also presents a +level line of communication from the small bay immediately to the north of +the cape, to the rocky point of Encounter Bay, at both of which places +there is safe anchorage at different periods of the year. + +HINTS FOR FUTURE EXPEDITIONS. + +The only objection that can be raised to the occupation of this spot, is +the want of an available harbour. Yet it admits of great doubt whether the +contiguity of Kangaroo Island to Cape Jervis, (serving as it does to break +the force of the prevailing winds, as also of the heavy swell that would +otherwise roll direct into the bay,) and the fact of its possessing a safe +and commodious harbour, certainly at an available distance, does not in a +great measure remove the objection. Certain it is that no port, with the +exception of that on the shores of which the capital of Australia is +situated, offers half the convenience of this, although it be detached +between three and four leagues from the main. + +On the other hand it would appear, that there is no place from which at +any time the survey of the more central parts of the continent could be so +effectually carried on; for in a country like Australia, where the chief +obstacle to be apprehended in travelling is the want of water, the +facilities afforded by the Murray and its tributaries, are indisputable; +and I have little doubt that the very centre of the continent might be +gained by a judicious and enterprising expedition. Certainly it is most +desirable to ascertain whether the river I have supposed to be the Darling +be really so or not. I have stated my objection to depots, but I think +that if a party commenced its operations upon the Murray from the +junction upwards, and, after ascertaining the fact of its ultimate course, +turned away to the N.W. up one of the tributaries of the Murray, with a +supply of six months' provisions, the results would be of the most +satisfactory kind, and the features of the country be wholly developed. +I cannot, I think, conclude this work better than by expressing a hope, +that the Colonial Government will direct such measures to be adopted as +may be necessary for the extension of our geographical knowledge in +Australia. The facilities of fitting out expeditions in New South Wales, +render the expenses of little moment, when compared with the importance of +the object in view; and although I am labouring under the effects of +former attempts, yet would I willingly give such assistance as I could to +carry such an object into effect. + + + + + +APPENDIX. + + + + +APPENDIX No. I. + + + +GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS FOUND TO THE SOUTH-WEST OF PORT JACKSON. + + +Considering the nature of the country over which the first expedition +travelled, it could hardly have been expected that its geological +specimens would be numerous. It will appear, however, from the following +list of rocks collected during the second expedition, that the geological +formation of the mountains to the S.W. of Port Jackson is as various as +that to the N.W. of it is mountainous. The specimens are described not +according to their natural order, but in the succession in which they +were found, commencing from Yass Plains, and during the subsequent stages +of the journey. + + +Sandstone, Old Red.--Found on various parts of Yass Plains, in contact +with + +Limestone, Transition.--Colour dark grey; composes the bed of the Yass +River, and apparently traverses the sandstone formation. Yass Plains lie +170 miles to the S.W. of Sydney. + +Sandstone, Old Red.--Again succeeds the limestone, and continues to the +N.W. to a considerable distance over a poor and scrubby country, covered +for the most part with a dwarf species of Eucalyptus. + +Granite.--Colour grey; feldspar, black mica, and quartz: succeeds the +sandstone, and continues to the S.W. as far as the Morumbidgee River, +over an open forest country broken into hill and dale. It is generally on +these granite rocks that the best grazing is found. + +Greywacke.--Colour grey, of light hue, or dark, with black specks. +Soft.--Composition of a part of the ranges that form the valley of the +Morumbidgee. + +Serpentine.--Colour green of different shades, striped sulphur yellow; +slaty fracture, soft and greasy to the touch. Forms hills of moderate +elevation, of peculiarly sharp spine, resting on quartz. Composition of +most of the ranges opposite the Doomot River on the Morumbidgee, in +lat. 35 degrees 4 minutes and long. 147 degrees 40 minutes. + +Quartz.--Colour snow-white; formation of the higher ranges on the left +bank of the Morumbidgee, in the same latitude and longitude as above; +showing in large blocks on the sides of the hills. + +Slaty Quartz, with varieties.--Found with the quartz rock, in a state +of decomposition. + +Granite.--Succeeds the serpentine, of light colour; feldspar decomposed; +mica, glittering and silvery white. + +Sandstone, Old Red.--Composition of the more distant ranges on the +Morumbidgee. Forms abrupt precipices over the river flats; of sterile +appearance, and covered with Banksias and scrub. + +Mica Slate.--Colour dark brown, approaching red; mica glittering. +The hills enclosing Pondebadgery Plain at the gorge of the valley of the +Morumbidgee, are composed of this rock. They are succeeded by + +Sandstone.--Which rises abruptly from the river in perpendicular cliffs, +of 145 feet in height. + +Jasper and quartz.--Colour red and white. Forms the slope of the above +sandstone, and may be considered the outermost of the rocks connected with +the Eastern or Blue Mountain Ranges. It will be remembered that jasper and +quartz were likewise found on a plain near the Darling River, precisely +similar to the above, although occurring at so great a distance from each +other. + +Granite.--Light red colour; composition of a small isolated hill, to all +appearance wholly unconnected with the neighbouring ranges. This specimen +is very similar to that found in the bed of New-Year's Creek. + +Breccia.--Silicious cement, composed of a variety of pebbles. Formation of +the most WESTERLY of the hills between the Lachlan and Macquarie Rivers. +This conglomerate was also found to compose the minor and most westerly of +the elevations of the more northern interior. + +Chrystallised Sulphate of Lime.--Found embedded in the deep alluvial soil +in the banks of the Morumbidgee River, in lat. 34 degrees 30 minutes S., +and long. 144 degrees 55 minutes E. The same substance was found on the +banks of the Darling, in lat. 29 degrees 49 minutes S., and in +long. 145 degrees 18 minutes E. + + +A reference to the chart will show that the Morumbidgee, from the first of +the above positions, may be said to have entered the almost dead level of +the interior. No elevation occurs to the westward for several hundreds of +miles. A coarse grit occasionally traversed the beds of the rivers, and +their lofty banks of clay or marl appear to be based on sandstone and +granitic sand. The latter occurs in slabs of four inches in thickness, +divided by a line of saffron-coloured sand, and seems to have been +subjected to fusion, as if the particles or grains had been cemented +together by fusion. + + +The first decided break that takes place in the level of the interior +occurs upon the right bank of the Murray, a little below the junction of +the Rufus with it. A cliff of from 120 to 130 feet in perpendicular +elevation here flanks the river for about 200 yards, when it recedes from +it, and forms a spacious amphitheatre that is occupied by semicircular +hillocks, that partake of the same character as the cliff itself; the face +of which showed the various substances of which it was composed in +horizontal lines, that if prolonged would cut the same substance in the +hillocks. Based upon a soft white sandstone, a bed of clay formed the +lowest part of the cliff; upon this bed of clay, a bed of chalk reposed; +this chalk was superseded by a thick bed of saponaceous earth, whilst the +summit of the cliff was composed of a bright red sand. Semi-opal and +hydrate of silex were found in the chalk, and some beautiful specimens of +brown menelite were collected from the upper stratum of the cliff. + +A little below this singular place, the country again declines, when a +tertiary fossil formation shows itself, which, rising gradually as an +inclined plain, ultimately attains an elevation of 300 feet. This +formation continues to the very coast, since large masses of the rock were +observed in the channel of communication between the lake and the ocean; +and the hills to the left of the channel were based upon it. This great +bank cannot, therefore, average less than from seventy to ninety miles in +width. At its commencement, it strikingly resembled skulls piled one +on the other, as well in colour as appearance. This effect had been +produced by the constant rippling of water against the rock. The softer +parts had been washed away, and the shells (a bed of Turritella) alone +remained. + +Plate 1, Figures 1, 2, and 3, represent the selenite formation. + +Plate 2, represents a mass of the rock containing numerous kinds of +shells, of which the following are the most conspicuous: + +Cardium +Pectunculus +Corbula +Arca +Conus, and +Others unknown. + + +* * * + + +The following is a list of the fossils collected from various parts of +this formation, from which it is evident that a closer examination would +lead to the discovery of numberless species. + + +TUNICATA. + + +PLATE III. + +FIG.1 Eschara celleporacea. + 2 ------- piriformis. + 3 ------- UNNAMED. + +FIG.4 Cellepora echinata. + 5 --------- escharoides? + 6 Retepora disticha. + 7 -------- vibicata. + 8 Glauconome rhombifera. + All Tertiary in Westphalia and England. + + +RADIATA + + + 9 Scutella. + 10 Spatangus Hoffmanni--Goldfuss. + Tertiary, in Westphalia. + 11 Echinus. + + +CONCHIFERA--BIVALVED SHELLS. + + + Corbula gallica--Paris basin--Tertiary. + Tellina? + Corbis lamellosa--Tertiary--Paris. + Lucina. + Venus (Cytherea) laevigata--ibid. + ----- ---------- obliqua --ibid. + Venus + Cardium?--fragments. + 12 Nucula--such is found in London clay. + 13 Pecten coarctatus?--Placentia. + ------ various?--recent. + 14 ------ species unknown. + Two other Pectens also occur. + Ostrea elongata--Deshayes. + 15 Terebratula. + 16 One cast, genus unknown, perhaps a Cardium. + + +MOLUSCA--UNIVALVED SHELLS. + + + Bulla? Plate II., fig. 2. +FIG.17 Natica--small. + 18 ------ large species. + Dentalium? + 19 Trochus. + 20 Turritella. + ---------- in gyps. + 21 Murex. + 22 Buccinum? + 23 Mitra. + 24 ----- very short. + 25 Cypraea. + 26 Conus. + 27 ----- (Plate II., fig. 3.) + 28 Two, unknown, (Also Plate II, fig. 4.) + The above all appear to belong to the newer tertiary formations. + +[Fig.17 to 27--These genera are scarcely ever, and some of them not at +all, found in any but tertiary formations.] + + A block of coarse red granite forms an island in the centre of the + river near the lake, but is nowhere else visible, although it is very + probably the basis of the surrounding country. + + +ROCK FORMATION OF THE COAST RANGE OF ST. VINCENT'S GULF. + + +Primitive Transition Limestone.--Light grey, striped. Altered in +appearance by volcanic action; occurs on the Ranges north of Cape Jervis. + +Granite.--Colour, red; found on the west side of Encounter Bay. + +Brown Spar.--South point of Cape Jervis. + +Sandstone, Old Red.--East coast of St, Vincent's Gulf. + +Limestone, Transition.--Colour, blue. East Coast of St. Vincent's Gulf. +Formation near the first inlet. Continuing to the base of the Ranges. + +Clay Slate.--Composition of the lower part of the Mount Lofty Range. + +Granite.--Fine grained, red; forms the higher parts of the Mount Lofty +Range. + +Quartz, with Tourmaline.--Lower parts of the Mount Lofty Range. + +Limestone Flustra, and their Corallines, probably tertiary.--From the +mouth of the Sturt, on the coast line, nearly abreast of Mount Lofty. + + + + +APPENDIX No. II. + + + +OFFICIAL REPORT TO THE COLONIAL GOVERNMENT. + + +* * * * * + +GOVERNMENT ORDER. + +Colonial Secretary's Office, Sydney, +May 10, 1830. + +His Excellency the Governor has much satisfaction in publishing the +following report of the proceedings of an expedition undertaken for the +purpose of tracing the course of the river "Morumbidgee," and of +ascertaining whether it communicated with the coast forming the southern +boundary of the colony. + +The expedition, which was placed under the direction of Captain Sturt, +of his Majesty's 39th Regiment, commenced its progress down the +"Morumbidgee" on the 7th day of January last, having been occupied +twenty-one days in performing the journey from Sydney. + +On the 14th January they entered a new river running from east to west, +now called the "Murray," into which the "Morumbidgee" flows. + +After pursuing the course of the "Murray" for several days, the expedition +observed another river (supposed to be that which Captain Sturt discovered +on his former expedition), uniting with the "Murray" which they examined +about five miles above the junction. + +The expedition again proceeded down the "Murray," and fell in with another +of its tributaries flowing from the south east, which Captain Sturt has +designated the "Lindesay;" and on the 8th February the "Murray" was +found to enter or form a lake, of from fifty to sixty miles in length, +and from thirty to forty in breadth, lying immediately to the eastward of +gulf St. Vincent, and extending to the southward, to the shore of +"Encounter Bay." + +Thus has Captain Sturt added largely, and in a highly important degree, +to the knowledge previously possessed of the interior. + +His former expedition ascertained the fate of the rivers Macquarie and +Castlereagh, on which occasion he also discovered a river which, there is +every reason to believe, is, in ordinary seasons, of considerable +magnitude. + +Should this, as Captain Sturt supposes, prove to be the same river as that +above-mentioned, as uniting with the "Murray," the existence of an +interior water communication for several hundreds of miles, extending from +the northward of "Mount Harris," down to the southern coast of the colony, +will have been established. + +It is to be regretted, that circumstances did not permit of a more perfect +examination of the lake, (which has been called "Alexandrina"), as the +immediate vicinage of Gulf St. Vincent furnishes a just ground of hope +that a more practicable and useful communication may be discovered in +that direction, than the channel which leads into "Encounter Bay." + +The opportunity of recording a second time the services rendered to the +colony by Captain Sturt, is as gratifying to the government which directed +the undertaking, as it is creditable to the individual who so successfully +conducted it to its termination.--It is an additional cause of +satisfaction to add, that every one, according to his sphere of action, +has a claim to a proportionate degree of applause. All were exposed alike +to the same privations and fatigue, and every one submitted with patience, +manifesting the most anxious desire for the success of the expedition. +The zeal of Mr. George M'Leay, the companion of Captain Sturt, when +example was so important, could not fail to have the most salutary effect; +and the obedience, steadiness, and good conduct of the men employed, merit +the highest praise. + +By his Excellency's command, + +ALEXANDER M'LEAY. + + +* * * * * + + +BANKS OF THE MORUMBIDGEE, APRIL 20TH, 1830. + +SIR,--The departure of Mr. George M'Leay for Sydney, who is anxious to +proceed homewards as speedily as possible, affords me an earlier +opportunity than would otherwise have presented itself, by which to make +you acquainted with the circumstance of my return, under the divine +protection, to the located districts; and I do myself the honour of +annexing a brief account of my proceedings since the last communication +for the information of His Excellency the Governor, until such time as I +shall have it in my power to give in a more detailed report. + +On the 7th of January, agreeably to the arrangements which had been made, +I proceeded down the Morumbidgee in the whale boat, with a complement of +six hands, independent of myself and Mr. M'Leay, holding the skiff in tow. +The river, for several days, kept a general W.S.W. course; it altered +little in appearance, nor did any material change take place in the +country upon its banks. The alluvial flats had occasionally an increased +breadth on either side of it, but the line of reeds was nowhere so +extensive as from previous appearances I had been led to expect. About +twelve miles from the depot, we passed a large creek junction from the +N.E. which, from its locality and from the circumstance of my having been +upon it in the direction of them, I cannot but conclude originates in the +marshes of the Lachlan. + +On the 11th, the Morumbidgee became much encumbered with fallen timber, +and its current was at times so rapid that I was under considerable +apprehension for the safety of the boats. The skiff had been upset on the +8th, and, although I could not anticipate such an accident to the large +boat, I feared she would receive some more serious and irremediable +injury. On the 14th, these difficulties increased upon us.--The channel +of the river became more contracted, and its current more impetuous. We +had no sooner cleared one reach, than fresh and apparently insurmountable +dangers presented themselves to us in the next. I really feared that every +precaution would have proved unavailing against such multiplied +embarrassments, and that ere night we should have possessed only the +wrecks of the expedition. From this state of anxiety, however, we were +unexpectedly relieved, by our arrival at 2 p.m. at the termination of the +Morumbidgee; from which we were launched into a broad and noble river, +flowing from E. to W. at the rate of two and a half knots per hour, over +a clear and sandy bed, of a medium width of from three to four hundred +feet. + +During the first stages of our journey upon this new river, which +evidently had its rise in the mountains of the S.E., we made rapid +progress to the W.N.W. through an unbroken and uninteresting country of +equal sameness of feature and of vegetation. On the 23rd, as the boats +were proceeding down it, several hundreds of natives made their appearance +upon the right bank, having assembled with premeditated purposes of +violence. I was the more surprised at this show of hostility, because we +had passed on general friendly terms, not only with those on the +Morumbidgee, but of the new river. Now, however, emboldened by numbers, +they seemed determined on making the first attack, and soon worked +themselves into a state of frenzy by loud and vehement shouting. As I +observed that the water was shoaling fast, I kept in the middle of the +stream; and, under an impression that it would be impossible for me to +avoid a conflict, prepared for an obstinate resistance. But, at the very +moment when, having arrived opposite to a large sand bank, on which +they had collected, the foremost of the blacks had already advanced +into the water, and I only awaited their nearer approach to fire +upon them, their impetuosity was restrained by the most unlooked +for and unexpected interference. They held back of a sudden, and +allowed us to pass unmolested. The boat, however, almost immediately +grounded on a shoal that stretched across the river, over which she +was with some difficulty hauled into deeper water,--when we found +ourselves opposite to a large junction from the eastward, little +inferior to the river itself. Had I been aware of this circumstance, I +should have been the more anxious with regard to any rupture with the +natives, and I was now happy to find that most of them had laid aside +their weapons and had crossed the junction, it appearing that they had +previously been on a tongue of land formed by the two streams. I therefore +landed among them to satisfy their curiosity and to distribute a few +presents before I proceeded up it. We were obliged to use the four oars to +stem the current against us; but, as soon as we had passed the mouth, +got into deeper water, and found easier pulling, The parallel in which we +struck it, and the direction from which it came, combined to assure me +that this could be no other than the "Darling." To the distance of two +miles it retained a breadth of one hundred yards and a depth of twelve +feet. Its banks were covered with verdure, and the trees overhanging them +were of finer and larger growth than those on the new river by which we +had approached it. Its waters had a shade of green, and were more turbid +than those of its neighbours, but they were perfectly sweet to the taste. + +Having satisfied myself on those points on which I was most anxious, +we returned to the junction to examine it more closely. + +The angle formed by the Darling with the new river is so acute, that +neither can be said to be tributary to the other; but more important +circumstances, upon which it is impossible for me to dwell at the present +moment, mark them as distinct rivers, which have been formed by Nature +for the same purposes, in remote and opposite parts of the island. Not +having as yet given a name to the latter, I now availed myself of the +opportunity of complying with the known wishes of His Excellency the +Governor, and, at the same time, in accordance with my own feelings as a +soldier I distinguished it by that of the "Murray." + +It had been my object to ascertain the decline of the vast plain through +which the Murray flows, that I might judge of the probable fall of the +waters of the interior; but by the most attentive observation I could not +satisfy myself upon the point. The course of the Darling now confirmed +my previous impression that it was to the south, which direction it was +evident the Murray also, in the subsequent stages of our journey down it, +struggled to preserve; from which it was thrown by a range of minor +elevations into a more westerly one. We were carried as far as 139 degrees +40 minutes of longitude, without descending below 34 degrees in point of +latitude; in consequence of which I expected that the river would +ultimately discharge itself, either into St. Vincent's Gulf or that of +Spencer, more especially as lofty ranges were visible in the direction of +them from the summit of the hills behind our camp, on the 2nd of February, +which I laid down as the coast line bounding them. + +A few days prior to the 2nd of February, we passed under some cliffs of +partial volcanic origin, and had immediately afterwards entered a +limestone country of the most singular formation. The river, although we +had passed occasional rapids of the most dangerous kind, had maintained a +sandy character from our first acquaintance with it to the limestone +division. It now forced itself through a glen of that rock of half a mile +in width, frequently striking precipices of more than two hundred feet +perpendicular elevation, in which coral and fossil remains were +plentifully embedded. On the 3rd February it made away to the eastward of +south, in reaches of from two to four miles in length. It gradually lost +its sandy bed, and became deep, still, and turbid; the glen expanded into +a valley, and the alluvial flats, which had hitherto been of +inconsiderable size, became proportionally extensive. The Murray increased +in breadth to more than four hundred yards, with a depth of twenty feet +of water close into the shore, and in fact formed itself into a safe and +navigable stream for any vessels of the minor class. On the 6th the cliffs +partially ceased, and on the 7th they gave place to undulating and +picturesque hills, beneath which thousands of acres of the richest flats +extended, covered, however, with reeds, and apparently subject to overflow +at any unusual rise of the river. + +It is remarkable that the view from the hills was always confined.--We +were apparently running parallel to a continuation of the ranges we had +seen on the 2nd, but they were seldom visible. The country generally +seemed darkly wooded, and had occasional swells upon it, but it was one +of no promise; the timber, chiefly box and pine, being of a poor growth, +and its vegetation languid. On the 8th the hills upon the left wore a +bleak appearance, and the few trees upon them were cut down as if by the +prevailing winds. At noon we could not observe any land at the extremity +of a reach we had just entered; some gentle hills still continued to form +the left lank of the river, but the right was hid from us by high reeds. +I consequently landed to survey the country from the nearest eminence, and +found that we were just about to enter an extensive lake which stretched +away to the S.W., the line of water meeting the horizon in that direction. +Some tolerably lofty ranges were visible to the westward at the distance +of forty miles, beneath which that shore was lost in haze. A hill, which I +prejudged to be Mount Lofty, bearing by compass S. 141 degrees W. More to +the northward, the country was low and unbacked by any elevations. A bold +promontory, which projected into the lake at the distance of seven +leagues, ended the view to the south along the eastern shore; between +which and the river the land also declined. The prospect altogether was +extremely gratifying, and the lake appeared to be a fitting reservoir for +the whole stream which had led us to it. + +In the evening we passed the entrance; but a strong southerly wind heading +us, we did not gain more than nine miles. In the morning it shifted to the +N.E. where we stood out for the promontory on a S.S.W. course. At noon we +were abreast of it, when a line of sand hummocks was ahead, scarcely +visible in consequence of the great refraction about them; but an open sea +behind us from the N.N.W. to the N.N.E. points of the compass. A meridian +altitude observed here, placed us in 35 degrees 25 minutes 15 seconds +S. lat.--At 1, I changed our course a little to the westward, and at +4 p.m. entered an arm of the lake leading W.S.W. On the point, at the +entrance, some natives had assembled, but I could not communicate with +them. They were both painted and armed, and evidently intended to resist +our landing. Wishing, however, to gain some information from them, +I proceeded a short distance below their haunt, and landed for the night, +in hopes that, seeing us peaceably disposed, they would have approached +the tents; but as they kept aloof, we continued our journey in the +morning. The water, which had risen ten inches during the night, had +fallen again in the same proportion, and we were stopped by shoals shortly +after starting. In hopes that the return of tide would have enabled us to +float over them, we waited for it very patiently, but were ultimately +obliged to drag the boat across a mud-flat of more than a quarter of a +mile into deeper water; but, after a run of about twenty minutes, were +again checked by sand banks. My endeavours to push beyond a certain point +were unsuccessful, and I was at length under the necessity of landing upon +the south shore for the night. Some small hummocks were behind us, on the +other side of which I had seen the ocean from our morning's position; +and whilst the men were pitching the tents, walked over them in company +with Mr. M'Leay to the sea shore, having struck the coast at Encounter +Bay, Cape Jervis, bearing by compass S. 81 degrees W. distant between +three and four leagues, and Kangaroo Island S.E. extremity S. 60 +degrees W. distant from nine to ten. + +Thirty-two days had elapsed since we had left the depot, and I regretted +in this stage of our journey, that I could not with prudence remain an +hour longer on the coast than was necessary for me to determine the exit +of the lake. From the angle of the channel on which we were, a bright +sand-hill was visible at about nine miles distance to the E.S.E.; which, +it struck me, was the eastern side of the passage communicating with the +ocean. Having failed in our attempts to proceed further in the boat, and +the appearance of the shoals at low water having convinced me of the +impracticability of it, I determined on an excursion along the sea-shore +to the southward and eastward, in anxious hopes that it would be a short +one; for as we had had a series of winds from the S.W. which had now +changed to the opposite quarter, I feared we should have to pull across +the lake in our way homewards. I left the camp therefore at an early hour, +in company with Mr. M'Leay and Fraser, and at day-break arrived opposite +to the sand-bank I have mentioned. Between us and it the entrance into the +back water ran. The passage is at all periods of the tide rather more than +a quarter of a mile in width, and is of sufficient depth for a boat to +enter, especially on the off side; but a line of dangerous breakers in +the bay will always prevent an approach to it from the sea, except in the +calmest weather, whilst the bay itself will always he a hazardous place +for any vessels to enter under any circumstances. + +Having, however, satisfactorily concluded our pursuit, we retraced our +steps to the camp, and again took the following bearings as we left the +beach, the strand trending E.S.E. 1/2 E.:-- + + Kangaroo Island, S.E. angle S. 60 degrees W.. + Low rocky point of Cape Jervis S. 81 degrees W. + Round Hill in centre of Range S. 164 degrees W. + Camp, distant one mile S. 171 degrees W. + Mount Lofty, distant forty miles N. 9 degrees E. + +Before setting sail, a bottle was deposited between four and five feet +deep in a mound of soft earth and shells, close to the spot on which the +tent had stood, which contained a paper of the names of the party, +together with a simple detail of our arrival and departure. + +It appeared that the good fortune, which had hitherto attended us was +still to continue, for the wind which had been contrary, chopped round to +the S.W., and ere sunset we were again in the mouth of the river, having +run from fifty to sixty miles under as much canvass as the boat would +bear, and with a heavy swell during the greater part of the day. + +The lake which has thus terminated our journey, is from fifty to sixty +miles in length, and from thirty to forty in width. With such an expanse +of water, I am correct in stating its medium depth at four feet. There is +a large bight in it to the S.E. and a beautiful and extensive bay to the +N.W. At about seven miles from the mouth of the river, its waters are +brackish, and at twenty-one miles they are quite salt, whilst seals +frequent the lower parts. Considering this lake to be of sufficient +importance, and in anticipation that its shores will, during her reign, +if not at an earlier period, be peopled by some portion of her subjects, +I have called it, in well-meant loyalty, "The Lake Alexandrina." + +It is remarkable that the Murray has few tributaries below the Darling. +It receives one, however, of considerable importance from the S.E., to +which I have given the name of the "Lindesay," as a mark of respect to my +commanding-officer, and in remembrance of the many acts of kindness I have +received at his hands. + +Having dwelt particularly on the nature of the country through which the +expedition has passed in the pages of my journal, it may be unnecessary +for me to enter into any description of it in this place, further than to +observe, that the limestone continued down to the very coast, and that +although the country in the neighbourhood of the Lake Alexandrina must, +from local circumstances, be rich in point of soil, the timber upon it is +of stunted size, and that it appears to have suffered from drought, +though not to the same extent with the eastern coast. It is evident, +however, that its vicinity to high lands does not altogether exempt it +from such periodical visitations; still I have no doubt that my +observations upon it will convince His Excellency the Governor, that it is +well worthy of a closer, and more attentive examination, than I had it in +my power to make. + +In a geographical point of view, I am happy to believe that the result of +this expedition has been conclusive; and that, combined with the late one, +it has thrown much light upon the nature of the interior of the vast +Island; that the decline of waters, as far as the parallel of 139 degrees +E., is to the south, and that the Darling is to the N.E. as the Murray +is to the S.E. angle of the coast, the main channel by which the waters of +the central ranges are thrown or discharged into one great reservoir. + +Our journey homewards was only remarkable for its labour: in conclusion, +therefore, it remains for me to add that we reached the depot on the +23rd of March. + +Our sugar failed us on the 18th of February, and our salt provisions, +in consequence of the accident which happened to the skiff, on the 8th of +March; so that from the above period we were living on a reduced ration of +flour; and as we took few fish, and were generally unsuccessful with our +guns, the men had seldom more than their bread to eat. + +I regretted to observe that they were daily falling off, and that although +unremitting in their exertions they were well nigh exhausted, ere we +reached the Morumbidgee. + +We were from sunrise to five o'clock on the water, and from the day +that we left the depot to that of our return we never rested upon our +oars. We were thirty-nine days gaining the depot from the coast, against +a strong current in both rivers, being seven more than it took us to go +down. From the depot to this station we had seventeen days hard pulling, +making a total of eighty-eight, during which time we could not have +travelled over less than 2000 miles. I was under the necessity of stopping +short on the 10th instant, and of detaching two men for the drays, which +happily arrived on the 17th, on which day our stock of flour failed us. +Had I not adopted this plan, the men would have become too weak to have +pulled up to Pondebadgery, and we should no doubt have suffered some +privations. + +This detail will, I am sure, speak more in favour of the men composing the +party than anything I can say. I would most respectfully recommend them +all to His Excellency's notice; and I beg to assure him that, during the +whole of this arduous journey, they were cheerful, zealous, and obedient. +They had many harassing duties to perform, and their patience and temper +were often put to severe trials by the natives, of whom we could not have +seen fewer than 4000 on the Murray alone. + +I am to refer His Excellency the Governor to Mr. M'Leay for any more +immediate information he may require,--to whom I stand indebted on many +points--and not less in the anxiety he evinced for the success of the +undertaking, than in the promptitude with which he assisted in the labours +attendant on our return, and his uniform kindness to the men. + +I have the honour to subscribe myself, +Sir, +Your most obedient humble Servant, +CHARLES STURT, +Captain of the 39th Regt. + +The Hon. the Colonial Secretary. + + + +END OF VOLUME II + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg Etext of Two Expeditions into the Interior of +Southern Australia Volume II by Charles Sturt + diff --git a/old/xpss212.zip b/old/xpss212.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4a8a8de --- /dev/null +++ b/old/xpss212.zip |